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THE NEW
BRITISH TRAVELLER,
OR,
MODERN PANORAMA
OF
Exhibiting, at one comprehensive Vi*w,
AN AMPLE, ACCURATE, AND POPULAR ACCOUNT,
HISTORICAL, TOPOGRAPHICAL, AND STATISTICAL,
Of this most Important Portion of
THE BRITISH EMPIRE.
\
DESCRIPTIVE Or
ITS SEVERAL, COUNTIES, CITIES, TOWNS, AND OTHER SUBDIVISIONS ; THEIR SITUATION,
EXTENT, CLIJIATE, SOIL,, AND PRODUCTIONS, NATURAL, AND ARTIFICIAL':
IMPROVEMENT AND PRESENT STATE OF
THE ARTS, SCIENCES, MANUFACTURES,
AGRICULTURE, COMMERCE, POPULATION, AND SOCIETY,
Forming a complete Survey of
SOUTH BRITAIN .
COMPRISING AUTHENTIC INFORMATION ON EVERY SUBJECT OF A LOCAL OR GENERAL NATURE,
AND INTERSl'FnSED WITH
Biographical Particulars of Eminent and Remarkable Persons,
BY JAMES DUGDALE, LL. D.
ILLUSTRATED BY A COMPLETE SET OF CORRECT MAPS, VIEWS OF PUBLIC BUILDINGS,
ANTIQUITIES, &c. &c.
VOL. IV.
LONDON:
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. ROBINS AND CO.
ALBION PRESS, IVY-LANE, PATERNOSTER- BOW.
1 \
\ 1
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.
THE inland County of Nottingham, somewhat
elliptical in its form, is bounded on the north
by Yorkshire ; OH the east by Lincolnshire ; on the
south by Leicestershire ; and on the west by Derby-
shire. It is about fifty miles in length from north,
to south, twenty-five in breadth, and about one hun-
dred and forty in circumference. Its contents, ac-
cording to the latest surveys, are 495,360 acres.
The climate is remarkably dry, and less rain is
thought to fall here than in any other county in the
kingdom ; a circumstance which Lowe, the agricul-
tural writer, thus accounts for : though the greatest
rains come with the Easterly winds, from the German
ocean, the surcharged clouds, being attracted pow-
erfully by the mountains of Derbyshire, pass over
this county too quickly to deposit much of their mois-
ture ; whilst, on the other hand, the clouds from
the western ocean and Irish channel are attracted
and broken by the Derbyshire and Yorkshire moun-
tains, before they arrive at this level district. This
general dryness is considered favourable to the tem-
perature of the county, so as to bring it nearly upon
a par with respect to seed time and harvest, with the
more southern parts of the island.
RIVERS and CANALS.] — There is scarcely a county
in England that is watered with a greater variety of
fine rivers than Nottinghamshire. The chief of these
is the Trent ; respecting the origin of whose name,
there have been various conjectures. Its present
name is supposed not to be older than the Snxon
times, and antiquaries have been much puzzled at
its not being mentioned by any of the Roman wri-
ters. The idea of its receiving 30 tributary streams,
being therefore called Triginta, whence Trente in
the Norman French, is almost too silly for notice.
The happiest conjecture, perhaps, is that which
originated in the circumstance that the Tiber in one
part of the city of Rome had the name of " Teren-
tum," in consequence of its nearing its banks from
the rapidity of its course — " eo quod ripas terat." —
Supposing this to be true, and that the Romans
might have given the name of their favourite river
to this one, the etymology of its present appellation
would be clear and simple. The river was consi-
dered of high importance as early as the Conquest »
for it is recorded in Domesday -book, that " in
Snotingham, the water of Trent and the fosse an1*
the way towards York, were kept so, that if anY
should hinder the passage of boats, and if aiiY
should plow or make a ditch on the King's way,
within two perches, he should make amends by
eight pounds." It ranks as the fourth capital river
in England, being surpassed only by the Thames,
Severn, and 1 lumber ; and runs the longest course
of any. It rises near Biddulph in the Moorlands of
Staffordshire, receiving from Cheshire and Lan-
cashire, eveu whilst near its head, a number of
small rivulets. It comes down from the hills with
a very rapid current, and being augmented in the
flat country by the accession of other streams, it
flows past Trentham and Burton, in Derbyshire,
when it first becomes navigable. It afterwards
enters Nottinghamshire near Radcliffe-upon-Soar
in a clear stream, and bold rapid current ; thence
flowing past the groves of Clii'ton, it winds round
the town of Nottingham, giving fertility to an im-
mense range of meadows. Its scenery round Holme
Pierpoint and Ratcliffe is eminently beautiful. It
then proceeds with a serpentine course through a
highly cultivated country towards Newark, where
it suddenly takes a bend towards the North, and
pursues that route as far as Clifton, upon-Trent,
where it becomes the boundary between Nottingham
and Lincolnshire, and passes Gainsborough, but does
not leave that county until it reaches Heck Dyke,
whence it proceeds, after a course of nearly two
hundred miles, to the Humber. At Gainsborough,
about eight miles before its leaving the county, it
loses the influence of the tide which flows up so i'ar,
and is no longer navigable for vessels of any great
burthen ; but vessels of a flatter construction are
constantly occupied in it as high up as Burton. Its
navigation is indeed of such importance to the coun-
try at large, that every means have been taken to
afford it all the facilities possible. It has a side cut
of ten miles in length, to avoid twenty-one shoals
which occur in little more than thirteen miles of its
course between Trent bridge, at the commencement
•f
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
of the Nottingham canal, and Sawley Ferry at the
Commencement of the Trent anil Mersey canal. This
cut, sometimes called the Trent Canal, has a rise of ,
twenty-eight feet ; and it not only crosses and is
connected with the Erwash canal near Savvley, hut '
lias also a short cut ami lock into the Trent at Bees- j
ton. — The Erwash merely forms the boundary on '
the south-west for about ten or twelve miles between
Nottingham and Derbyshires, and falls into the
Trent near Thrumpton. — The Soar, more to the
southward, constitutes a partial boundary between
this county and Leicestershire. — On the forest side |
of the county, are five fine streams which cross from
west to east, almost parallel to each other, and after- ;
wards turn to the north and form the River Idle. —
Rain worth water rises near Newstead Abbey, runs to !
Inklesall dam and Kuft'ord, and joins the Maim at
OlleVton. — The Maun, or Man, rises between Kirkby
and Newstead, and runs by Mansfield, Clipstone,
and Edwinstow, to Ollerton. — TheMedcn rises near
Sntton llnrduick, runs by Budby through Thoresby
Park, and joins the Mann near Palethorpi1, whence ,
the two rivers take lite name of The Idle. The
Wolleii runs through WelbeJk Park, and after re-
ceiving the Poulter from Lungwith, through Click- !
ney, by Carburton, and thence through Clumber
Park into the Idle near Elkesley. — The Worksop
river runs from Worksop by Scofton, Bilby, and •
Scrooby, and enters into the Idle at Bawtry. — The
ldl« runs in a- course nearly north, by Haughton
Park, through Retford towards Mattersey ; thence
north-west to Bawtry, where it takes an eastern ,
course past Misson, and traversing the Car falls j
into the Trent near its junction with the Chesterfield
canal, in the north east angle of the county. — North
of Trent, the Lene rises noar the source of the
Maun between Kirkby and Newstead ; ram through
Newstead Park, by Papplewick, Buhvell, Basford,
Ixsnton, and thence into the Trent, by Nottingham
bridge. It will be treated of more particularly in
the description of that town. — Dover or Dare beck
runs from near Bludvvorih by Oxton, Calverton,
Epcrston, Lowdham, and thence into the Trent,
near Iloveringliam, by Caythorpe.
The Nottingham Canal commences in the Trent,
and proceeds to the Cromford canal near Langley
bridge, near the termination of the Erwash canal.
It is also connected with the side cut from the Trent
and Mersey navigation, as already mentioned. Its
bed is not greatly elevated, and its supply is prin-
cipally from the river. However, to guard against
deficiencies of water in dry seasons, a reservoir has
been made near Arnswitch, with a self regulating
sluici1, which lets off above 3000 cubic feet of water
per hour for the use of some mills in its neighbour-
hood, and also for the Erwash canal. This naviga-
tion was finished in 1802. The principal objects of
its undertakers were the export of agricultural pro-
duce, of coals from the various mines in its vicinity,
and the importation of lime, timber, &c. — The
Grantham Canal, also connected with the Trent,
commences near Holme Pierpoint, and, having a
branch upwards of three miles in length, leads to
Bingham. The system of lockage on that part of
the line which is in this county is very extensive.
The proprietors of the Trent river navigation hav-
ing been at a considerable expense in deepening the
river near the entrance of this canal, are infilled to
certain tolls on all goods passing from this to the
Nottingham canal. — The Idle River Canal, more
properly a river navigation, commences at Bawtry,
and runs nearly east for ten miles along the northern
\erge of the county. In one part of its course it has
the name of Bycar Dyke ; and about half a mile
from Stockwith, where it joins the Trent, (close to
the junction of the Chesterfield canal with that river)
is Mistertan Sas or Sluice, which has an opening of
seventeen feet eight inches, with two lock doors or
gates sixteen feet high opening to the Trent, for
tho purpose of keeping the floods out of the low
lands through which this river flows. — The Chester-
field Canal commences in Derbyshire, close to the
town of Chesterfield, and enters Nottinghamshire
near Shire Oaks, thence by Worksop through the
northern limits of Sherwood forest in a circuitous
direction by Babworth to Retford, where it changes
its course suddenly to the north, passing through
Welham, Hayton, Clarborough, and Clayworth, by
Wiseton Hall, Everton, and Drakelow, where it
runs through a tunnel of two hundred and fifty yards,
and thence round Gringley on the hill in a north east
direction through Misson Car to Misterton, across
Walkeringham moor, and thence into the Trent at
Stockwith. The line of this canal is about 40 miles.
SOIL, AGRICULTURE, &c.] — This county, which
is one of the most fertile in England, presents a
general inequality of surface, seldom rising to the
altitude of a hill, but sufficiently broken to avoid the
sameness resulting from a dead flat. — The general
division is into sand, or gravel ; clay ; limestone
and coal land ; the first of which has been subdi-
vided into the forest country and borders extending
about thirty miles in length, and from seven to tea
in breadth ; the Trent bank district ; and the tongue
of land beyond, or east of Trent, running into Lin*
colnshire. — The Trent bank district accompanies the
river as far as Sutton upon Trent, and is in some
places not more than a mile in breadth, and never
more than five. It is in general a mellow vegetable
mould on a bottom of sand or gravel, which some-
times shews itself on the surface. The south-western
district also, on the banks of the Soar, is included
in this. — The district east of Trent, is generally a
poor land, subject to floods, and much incommoded
by low-moors. — The clay district is divided into the
north and south clays ; the first of which is extremely
| fertile, arising from a considerable mixture of sand,
which renders it more friable, and of course more
easily susceptible of agricultural labour, than cold
clay lands in general. In tho more northern part it
is agreeably diversified with hill and dale, whilst its
bold promontories rising abruptly from the dead level
of
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
of; Misson Car, and its continuation into Lincoln-
shire, appear evidently to have been at some very
remote period the boundaries to an ocean which must
once have flowed over what is now a scene of rich
cultivation.— The south clay district is by no means
so extensive as the north ; it includes the Vale of
Belvoir, which presents a scene of cultivation per-
haps equal to any other in the kingdom ; also the
woulds, a range of high bleak hills, in many parts
Uliindosed, but in a state of progressive improve-
ment, particularly by planting. — The lime and coal
districts lie on the western verge of the county, be-
ginning about Shire Oaks, and extending to the
southward as far as the Trent. The coals begins
near Mansfield. The limestone is precisely bounded
by the river Lene, to the eastward of which it is not
to be found.
In such a diversity of soil, every species of grain
is cultivated. There is however one species, whose
culture Lowe believes to be peculiar to this county.
This called Skegs, yields a crop double in quantity
to any other oats, but only equal in weight. They
will grow where nothing else will ; and as they yield
a sweet nourishing food, the farmers rai?e them in
considerable quantities, particularly in the north-
western part of the county, for their own use, giving
them to their horses, in the straw. Their produce
on bad land amounts in general to about four quar-
ters per acre, equal in value to about two thirds the
same quantity of oats. On good land, they have
been known to produce fourteen or fifteen quarters,
— Hops are an article of considerable cultivation inv
the central part of the county about Ollerton, and
in most parts of the north clay. They are much
stronger than the Kentish hops, but their ilavour
is less mild and agreeable. — There are in the north
clay many orchards both of apples and pears, but
not in sufficient quantities to render the making of
cyder or perry an object of agricultural attention. —
Weld, sometimes called the dyer's weed, is an
article of partial cultivation about Scrooby, and
other places in the northern district. It does not
occupy much ground, being sown with either bar-
ley or clover. It has been known to yield half a
ton per acre ; but its price is too variable for the
farmer to depend much upon its culture.
FARMS, LEASES, &c.] — Very few farms here ex-
ceed 300/. per annum ; more are below than above
100/. ; and many, in the clay district, as low as
twenty.— A liberal spirit of improvement seems to
pervade all classes, each, in proportion to his means,
trying and adopting the modern discoveries of other
districts. The tenures are in all variety of freehold,
copyhold, and leasehold ; and here is also a consi-
derable quantity of church and collegiate lands ; the
church of Southwell, and the archbishopric of York,
being still, as formerly, considerable landholders,
whilst some of the ancient priory lands are now
in possession of the universities. The freeholds
are more extensive than numerous ; and, of the
copyholds, a great proportion of the smallest ones
vou. iv. — NO. 141.
! are " Borough English," and descend to the youngest
son. The immediate occupants of the soil, how-
ever, are mostly tenants at will, and as their farms
! in many instances have thus gone through several
! generations, they feel a kind of hereditary security
that prompts them to the same course of improve-
i ment as though they were secured by leases. The
! rents have been in many instances raised in ah ex-
; traordinary proportion, even on the leasehold lands.
— The farmers have many advantages in the article
of tythes ; most of the lands, originally church lands,
: being tytlie free; whilst in other parts of the county,
; compositions are generally made, at a much lower
, rate, than a surveyor would value them at.— In the
forest district, the land being of a convertible nature,
I very little now remains permanently in grass, ex-
i cept in the bottoms near rivers or brooks for mea-
dow, and homesteads about farm houses for con-
: venirncr- ; but formerly there was always about each
forest village a small quantity of inclosed land in
tillage or pasture, the rest lay open, common to the
sheep and cattle of the inhabitants, and the King's
deer.
It has been an immemorial custom for the inha-
, bitants of townships to take up breaks, or tem-
porary inclosures of mon; or L'ss extent, perhaps
from forty to two hundred ami fifty acres, and keep
them in tillage for five or six years. For this the
permission of the lord of the manor, however, is
I necessary, and two verdurers must inspect, who
i report to the Lord Chief Justice in Eyre, that it is
i not to the prejudice of the king or subject ; and they
' are at the same time to see that the fences are not
'• such as to exclude the deer.
CATTLK, &c.] — Very few black cattle are reared
,' in this district. The better sort of Irish cattle is
! generally preferred for feeding. The old forest
breed of sheep are a small polled breed (though
some are horned) with grey faces and legs ; tiie
fleeces of which run from thirteen to eighteen to the
tod of twenty-eight pounds ; the wool fine. The
carcases fat, from seven to nine pounds u quarter.
In the inclosed farms the breed has been much im-
proved of late years, by various crosses ; sometimes
the Lincolnshire pasture sort, but of late more the
new Leicestershire, or Dishley breed. — Immense
. numbers of pigeons arc bred in this county. Between
i 9000 and 10,000 are known to have been soU, at
Tuxford, on one market-day.
MINERALS, FOSSILS, &c.] — Coals are found, in
I considerable quantities, in the western parts of the
I county. Extensive quarries of a reddish stone, in
immense blocks, are wrought near Mansfield ; and
there is a quarry near Wansfield Woodhouse wrought
for the purposes of burning as lime, but which is so
extremely beautiful, of a light cream colour, close in
the grain, and extremely hard, that it would be
highly valuable for ornamental building, were it not
that its extreme hardness would raise its price far
beyond that of Portland stone. — A good bluish stone,
fit for building purposes, is dug up at Mapleheck.
B Newark
f)
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
Newark bridge is built of it, and it appears to im-
prove from exposure to the weather. There is no
county which produces such a quantity, and at the
same time such a variety of jrypsum, alabaster, or
plaster of Paris, as it is commonly called. Marie,
it is supposed, might be found in considerable quan-
tities for agricultural purposes, if that mode oi dres-
sing land were once introduced.
MINERAL AND MEDICINAL SPRINGS.] — At Notting-
ham is a fine but neglected chalybeate spring, the
water of which is excellent for all obstructions. — At
Kinoltnn, seven miles S. E. of Nottinaham, is a
: pleasant aperient water, clear, and slightly salt ; and,
at Orston, 1%2 miles E. of Nottingham, is a rich,
: sweetish chalybeate, with sulphur, calcareous uitre,
and a small proportion of sea salt.
PLANTS] — The principal plants of this county
will be found enumerated in the note below.*
in Nottingham cop-
or S) camore-lree :
in Colwick
wood.
* Acer campestre, Common Maple:
pices, ami elsewhere.
pseudoplatanus, Greater Maple,
in Nottingham park.
Achillea Ptarmica, Sneeze Wort, or Goose-tongue ; in mea-
dows and wet woods; at Mansfield, and else-
where.
Adoxa Moscliatellina. Tuberous Moschatel : , in woods and
shady places : in the boggy part of Bastord
Scottnm.
JEgopodium Podagraria. Herb Gerard, Goutweed, or Ash-
weed : in the way from Nottingham castle to
the Lein.
Agaricus bulhosus. Bulbous Agaric: on Marshall hills.
campanulatus ft. Bell Agaric : in Colwick wood.
campestris. Common Mushroom; in fields and
pastures ; about Cotgrave, plentifully.
campestris & Georgii. A variety of the common
Mushroom : in meadows.
— — Chantercllus. Yellow Aavic, or Champignon: on
Marshall hills.
equeslris. Starry Agaric : in Nottingham coppices,
and elsewhere.
fimttarius. Egg Agaric: on a bank going to Not-
tingham lings.
julgpnotus. Sooty Agaric i< in Nottingham coppices.
• fragilis. Brittle Agaric ; in Colwick wood.
lividits. Livid Agaric: in Gallon Cowdale.
• mutabilis. Variable Argaric :
separatus. Blackish Argaric :
• — umbelliferus. Umbreila Argaric :
veolaceits. Violet Agaric : on Marshall hills.
Alchemilla vulgaric. Common Ladies Mantle: in a close
near Shepherd race, in Ca'ton liberty, in great
plenty ; and in the clay-fields in Nottingham
coppices, near the Primrose holes.
Alisna ranunculcides. Lesser Water Plantain : by the side of
the Trent, a little on that side Clifton hill,
coining from Nottingham.
Allium ursinum. Ramsons : in Colwick wood.
— vineale. Crow Garlic : plentifully in Lark-dale, and
elsewhere.
Anethumfaniculum. Fennel or Ficckle : on the rock of Not-
tingham castle.
Anthyllis vulneraria. Ladies Finger, or Kidney Vetch : in
several fields about Mapperley, and elsewhere.
Anterrhinum Linaria. Common Toad flax ;" in barren mea-
dows and pastures.
— — orontium. Leasl Snap Dragon : on some walls at
Teversall and Woollatin.
• spurium. Round-leaved Toad-flax, or Fluellin ;
in the corn-fields on Clifton hilrs.
Apium graveoleus. Common Smallage: in marshes and
ditches : at Lenton.
Aquilegia vulgaris. Common Columbines; in Asply close,
and also in that part of the wood which joins
to the close.
Arum maculaium. (var. foliis, venis aurei«.) A variety of
common Wake-robin ior Cuckow-point, with
golden veins in the leaves ; in a close called
Felldike, between Bingham and Carcalston,
plentifully.
L-UWl
r
Asperula oderata. Woodroof; in shady place* on Colwick
hills, in Nottingham coppicc-s, and elsewhere.
Asplenium Adiantum nigrum. Black Maiden-hair ; on the
rock holes at Nottingham park, and elsewhere.
— Ruta mtiraria. White Maiden hair ; on the walls
of Nottingham castle, and elsewhere.
• Scolopendrium. Hart's Tongue : on Gedlington
church, and elsewhere.
Trichomanes. Common Maiden-hair ; on the
walls of Basford church, and on the garden
walls of Annesly.
Astragulus glycyphillo*. Wild Liquorice, or Liquorice Vetch:
on the sand hills going from Cow-lane towards
Nottingham gallows, on the right hand in a
lane leading from Lark-dale to Radford lings,
and in Colwick wood.
Atropa Bellodona. Deadly Nightshade, or Dwale ; on Clifton
hill facing Trent, and in a quarry at Mansfield.
Avenanuda. Naked Oat-grass or Pilcorn ; in cornfields, about
Arnold, Basford, and Bockstow.
fatua. Bearded Oat-grass : in corn-fields.
Herberts rulgaris. Berberry, or Pepperidge-bush : in a hedge
at Clifton hall, and elsewhere.
Belonica officinahs. Wood Betony : in Colwick wood, and
elsewhere.
Belulaalba. Birth-tree: in Eastwood and elsewhere.
Botetusfomentarius ft. Spongy Boletus : on oaks and other
trees in Colwick wood.
hepaticus. Liver Boletus : in Ca! ton Cowdale, at the
foot of oak trees.
ignatus. Touchwood Boletus: on willows.
^— — vcrricobr. Striped Boletus : on trees and old wood, &c.
viltosus. Hairy Boletus : on trees ; in Colwick wood.
Borago officinalis. liorage; near Nottingham gallows, and
elsewhere.
Briza media. Ladies Hair, Quaking Grass, orCowquakes;
in fields.
Bryum aureum. Golden Bryum : in the rock boles at Not-
tingham.
astivum. Spring Bryum : on rocks and mountainous
places; in Lark-dale and elsewhere.
argentum. Silver Bryum:
extinctorum. Extinguisher Bryum:
circutum ft. A variety of Starry Bryum
horneum. Swan's-neck Bryum :
• murule. Wall Bryum ;
— pomif'inne. Apple Bryum :
• — pufoinatum. Grey Bryum:
purpureum. Purple Bryum:
y. A variety of purple Bryum
i murate. Hairy Bryum:
• serpyll/folium £ unilulatum. A variety of
Thyme-leaved Bryum.
setaceum. Pale Br\ urn.
subulatum. Subulated Bryum:
.. scoparium. Broom Bryum :
truncatuliim. Brown Brium ;
undulatum. Curled Brium : J
Jiutomus wnbellatus. Flowering Rush : in watery ditche*
about Nottingham, aud elsewhere.
BIJSSUS aurea. GoKlen Byssus: on the walls of Colwick
church.
Byssut
In Lark-
dale, Not-
tingham
park, and
elsewhere.
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
ETYMOLOGY.]— This county evidently derives its which it acquired from the subterranean passages
name from its chief town, Nottingham, softened and caverns which were hollowed out in ancient
from the tiaxon's " Snottingham" ; an appellation : times for houses and retreats under those craggy
rocks
Byssus Flos arua. Paper Byssus ; on stagnant waters.
incana. Mealy Byssus; on banks of ditches, &c. in
Colwick wood, and eli-e« h< re.
velutina. Velvet Byssus: on the rock behind the Uath
at Mansfield.
Campanula glomerata. Lesser Bell -flower, or Canterbury
Bells ; in a close at Man-field, near Asply.
• rapunculus. Escul -nt Bell-flower, or Hamptons:
in Radford hollows, and elsewhere.
Traclielium. Great Bell flower or Canterbury Bells;
in Colwick wood, and in a close near Asply,
in the way to St Ann's well, from Wood lane.
Carduut landolatas &. A variety of Spear Thistle; on the
side of Clifton hill, and in Asply cherry holt.
marianus. Milk Thistle: on Nottingham castle
rocks, and elsewhere.
nutans. Musk Thistle: in Nottingham castle yard,
on the sand hills without Chappie Bar, and
elsewhere.
Carlina vulgaris. Carline Thistle: in meadows and pastures ;
about Colwick, and elsewhere.
Centaurea nigra. Common Knapwood \
or Matfellon : fat the entrance of
. scabiosa. Greater Knapweed, £ Colwick wood.
or Malfellon. )
Cerastum arcense. Corn Mouse-eared duckweed : in corn-
fie'ds and sandy meadows; near Nottingham
paik, about Radford fields, and elsewhere.
Cerastium semidecandrium. Least Mouse-eared Chick weed ;
on walls and sand hills.
Chenopodium vulvaria. Stinking Orach : between Chapel
Bars and the sand hills, and elsewhere.
Chara tomentosu. Brittle Chara : in one of the clay pits near
Mapperly brick kilns.
. vulgaris. Com.noii Chaw; in a small watery place at
the entrance of Whitemore close near Ratford
church.
Chlora perfoleata. Yellow Centaury ; in Whilemore close,
not far fiom Radford church, and about Mans-
field.
Chrysosplenium oppositifolium. Opposite - leaved Golden
Saxifrage ; in a ditch on the left-hand of Wood
lane coming from Nottingham, and elsewhere.
Cicula virosa. Long leaved Water Hemlock : in the pools
in Nottingham park.
Circaa Luteleana. Enchanters Nightshade: in Colwick wood,
and el.-ewhere.
Ciftus Helianthemum Dwarf Sun-flower or Cistus ; in Not-
tingham park.
Clavaria caralloides. Coral Clavaria : on Marshall hills.
digitata Finaered Clavaria: ") on rotten
Hyftoxylon. Horned Clavaria ; | stumps
y. A variety of V oi trees
Horned Clavaria; j in Colwick
muscoidcs. Dwarf CUvaria; ) wood.
—— pistilltiris. Club C'iavaria ; on rotten wood ; on
Nottingham course.
Clematis vitatba. Traveller's Joy; in hedges on read sides.
Cochicaria Coronopits. Swine's Cress ; once found on the
bank of an enclosure joining to Woolastan
New Lvjiige.
— —— — — offirinalis. Scurvy-grass ; on the wall at Woolaton.
Colchicum autumnalc. Meadow Saffron ; in Nottingham mea-
dows, and about Trent bridge.
Comarum palustre. Purple Marsh Cinquefoil ; on bogs, in
Nottingham park ami Basfo.nl church yard.
Conferva rivularis. River Conferva, ov Crow Siik ; in rills
and little brooks.
in the
Convolvulus arvensis &. A variety of small Bind-wred,
corn-field between Radford and Linton.
Conyza squarrosa. Plowman's Spikenard ; in a close a little
beyond the second forge at Pleasly on the
Derbyshire side, about 14 miles from Not-
tingham.
Cornui sanguined. Female Cornel, Dogberry-tree, Gatter-
wood, or Prickwood ; in Nottingham coppices,
and elsewhere.
Corylui avellina. Hazel or Nut. This was formerly so com-
mon in this neighbourhood, that some derive
the name of this town from thence quasi Not-
tingham.
Crocus officinalis, syloestris. Crocus ; In the clay field above
Foxlane.
Cynoglossum officinale. Common Hound's Tongue ; plenti-
fully in Woelaton park.
Daphne laurcola. Spurge Laurel ; in Colwick wood.
Diunthus Deitoides. Maiden Pink ; on the sandy hills in the
way from Nottingham to Leutan, plentifully
and elsewhere.
Drosera rotundifolia. Round leaved Sundew ; in a moist
place near a brook at Oxto!>, by Cardwell
brook near Mansfield.
Epilobium alpinum. Alpine Willow Herb ; in the hedge of a
ditch between Lentuii and Betston.
Equiserum jtiimiitile. River Horse-tail ; in a pool in Notting-
ham park, and elsewhere.
hytuiarle. Rough Horse-tail, or Shave Grass;
among the rushes on Nc-ttleworth green, two
miies from Mansfield.
sylvaticumfr. A variety of Wood Horse-tail ; in
Colnick and Asply woods.
Erica cinerea. Fine-leaved Heath ; in the hollows about Not-
tingham.
tetralix. Cross leaved Heath; in several parts of Mans-
field forest.
Erigeron acre. Blue Flea-bane ; in the closes near Mansfield.
Eriophorvm polystachion. Cotton Grass : on bogs and wet
heaths ; in Whitemour close, and elsewhere.
Euonymus Eurojxeus. Spindle-tree: in Wood-lane, going to
St. Ann's Well, and elsewhere.
Eupatorium cannabiian. Hemp Aprnnony : in ditches and
on the sides of meis; between Nottingham
and Lerilan.
Euphorbia amygdaloides. Wood Spurge : in Colwick wood.
Fontiiialis pennuta. Feathered Watermoss : on a post in the
Trent above Colwick. and elsewhere.
squamosa. Squamosis Walermovs : in the Trent at
Colwick, and on a wheel of the first fori;e at
Pleasiey.
Galeobdolon luteum. Nettle Hemp • in Colwick lane and
wood, and elsewhere.
Galeopsits tetrahit ft. Common Nellie Hemp, with a white
flower; about Mansfield, in a place called
Hule's black balls.
t. Ditto with a party coloured flower;
about ditto.
Galium spurium. Corn Ladies Bedstiaw: in the pits at Wool-
laton, in other plai es, in coin and tallow fields.
Genista Anglica. Needle Furze, or Petty Whin: in the
gorse at Bridge ford.
tinctoria. D\ers Brootn, Woodwaxen, or Ban Broom ;
in a close called Fe.vlnll close, in the road to
Gedling.
Gentlana Amorella Autumnal Gentian, or Fell wort ; in dry
meadows ; at East Lake.
centaurium. Lesser Ceiitaury ; in Barford field,
and elsewhere,
Geranium
8
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
rocks, on the south side, hanging over the river
Lene. Asserius, an ancient writer, states, that the
Saxon name may be latinised into " Speluncaruni
Geranium Columbinitm. Long stalked Dove's-foot Crane's-
bill : in corn-fields, meadows, and hedges ; in
Lark-dale.
lucidunt. Shining Crane's-bill ; in Lark dale, and
elsewhere.
moscluttiun. Musk Crane's-bill : in dry meadows
and banks.
prateme. Corn foot, Crane's-bill: in a close near
Asply.
rotundifolium. Round leaved Crane's-bill : on walls
and hedges, and elsewhere.
Geum rivale. Water Avens: by Hie side of the wood by
Asply House, and elsewhere.
Gnuphalium sylvaticam. Upright Cudweed : in the closes
near Mansfield.
Mieraceum murorum $. A variety of French or Golden Lung-
wort: in the rock holes at Nottingham.
flippocrepis camosa. Tutted Horseshoe Vetch ; in Notting-
ham park.
fJippuris vulgaris. Mare's-tail: in a little brook at West
Lake.
ffydrocheeris Morsus ranae. Frog-bit; in ditches; in Not-
tingham park.
Hypericum Androsamum. Tutsan or Park leaves: inColwick
wood.
humifusum. Trailing St. John Wort: on Burr
hills at Mansfield.
.. qiiadrangulum. St. Peter's wort : ) . p_i -i.
. perforation. St. John's wort:
• pulchrum. UprightSt. John's wort: )
H'/pnmn complanatum. Flat Hypnum ; \
— — — — filiforme. Foliform livpnum ; f on trees in
— syeaticum. Wood Hypnum ; f Colwick wood
taxifolum. Yew-leaved Hypnum;)
Jasionc montanu. Hairy Sheep's Scabious; on heaths and
mountainous meadows ; in Kadford hollows.
Iberis nudicaulus. Rock Cress ; in gravelly places : in Not-
tingham park, and Radford lings.
Juncus urtircu.latus. Jointed Rush ; in watery places.
Jungermannia asplenoidcs. Spleenwort Jungermannia; in
Nottingham coppices.
bicuspidata. Forked Jungermannia; in shady
wet woods in a hollow beyond Lark dale.
bidentata. Bibed Jungermannia ; in ditto.
d/giltita. Scaly Jungermannia ; on the bark of
trees in Colwick wood.
eomplunata. Flat Jungermannia ; on ditto.
Jangcrmannia pinguis. Slippery Jungermannia : in the cop-
pices at Nottingham, and elsewhere.
Juniper US commiwis, Juniper: in a wilderness by Colwick
Hall, and on a common going to Southwell,
beyond Oxton.
J-actuca saligna. Least Lettuce, or Dwarf Gum Succory : in
the hollow way at Carleton.
— — —- virosa. Strong-scented Wild Lettuce ; on Clifton
Hill, and elsewhere.
Lemma trisulca. Ivy-leaved Duck's-meat : in a pool in Not-
tingham Park.
Leonurus Carcliaca. Mother-wort : on abank on the left hand
of Lenton Field, going from the nbbcy yard
from Nottingham, and elsewhere.
Lichen ater. Rugged Litchen : on rocky places in Notting-
ham Park.
• calicaris. Channeled Lichen : in rocks and bark of
trees; in Colwick Wood.
• ciliaris. Ciliated Lichen: on trees; in Colwick Wood.
— — crispus. Curled Lichen : on walls, &c. near the first
forge at Plesby.
Domus," or the house of caverns, which, if trans-
lated into British, would be " Tui Ogo Bane."
GENERAL HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, &c.] — Of the
early
Lichen caninus. Ash Coloured Ground Liver-wort : in Not-
tingham Park, and elsewhere.
- farinaceus. Mealy Lichen • on trees ; in Colwick
and Thorny wood.
- - floridus $ hirtus. Rough Liverwort: on trees; in
Thorny Wood, and elsewhere.
- oblivaceus y. A variety of Olive coloured Liver-wort :
on trees and dead wood ; in Colwick wood
and elsewhere.
-- palkscens. Pale Lichen : on rocks, stones, and trees.
— — — palmntus. Palmated Lichen: on the rocks in Pleshy
Park.
- physades. Inflated Lichen : on trees, rocks, and
stones ; on Nottingham and Bestwood Park
pales.
- pulmonmius. Lung-wort : on oak trees in Thorney
wood.
.— pyxids.
,„ (, h llow,
Indented
Cup Liver-wort.
Zfiliformis. Trumpet Liver-wort : in the
close by the hollows, beyond Larkdale.
\cornutui. Plain Liver-wort : on heaths,
&c-
• £ digitatus. Fengered Liver-wort : in Nc t-
tingham Park.
37 gracilis. Tall Liver-wort: in the h )1-
lows about Nottingham gallows.
subulatus fifurcatus. Forked Liver-wort : on heaths
in Nottingham Park.
Lithospermum officinule. Gromwell, Gromill, or Graymill ;
in Colwick Lane, and elsewhere.
Limum Cathartic-urn. Purging Flax : in Radford Field, and
elsewhere.
Ligustrum vulgare. Privet, or Prim : in Colwick I ,ane,
plentifully.
Lvconerdon ricdunculutum. Stalked Puff Ball : in C< Iwick
Wood.
LysimacMa nemorum. Yellow Pimpernel of the woods ; on
the bank of a ditch, lending from Nottingham
coppices, to St. Ann's Wells.
_— tenella. Purple Money-wort: on bogs in Basford
Scottum, and elsewhere.
Lythrum liyssopifolia. Grass Poly, or ?mall hedge Hyssop: in
. watery places ; at Wilford.
Mah-a Alccn. Verba'in Mallow ; in fields and hedg :s ; about
Mansfield, and elsewhere.
Manchantia hemispharica. Hemisphetic Marchan'ia; in wet
places ; in I^arkdale.
conicu. Conic Marchantia: in wet places; in
Larkdale.
polymorplia ft. Common Marchantia: on a sandy
rock, nrar Nottingham Castle.
Marrubium vulgare. White Horehound : at the footofNot-
tinghun Castle, and elsewhere.
Melampyrum sijltiaticum. Yellow Cow Wheaf: in a wood
near lord Byron's park, in the road to Mans-
field.
Medicago lupuUna ft. Black Meckk, or Nonesuch: in Not-
tingham Park, and elsewhere.
Melissa Calanrintha. Field Calamint : on a bank in Basford
town, and in a lane leading from the Rount
into Basford.
Mcatha aquatlca ft. Round-headed Water Mint : 'i about Not-
— ,i y. A variety of common Water S lingham
Mint ; .J pool.
piperata. Pepper Mint : on the bank of St. Ann's
Well, at Woodlane.
Mentha
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
9
early history of this county, very little is known, have given somi> particulars in our account of Der-
beyond the fact that it formed a portion of the settle- j byshire. Subsequently to the departure of the
meuts of the Coritani, a British tribe of which we
Romans, Nottinghamshire constituted part of the
kingdom
Mentlia pulegeum erigua. Smooth Mint i by the waterside,
at Radford.
rotundifolinni. Round-leaved Mint: near the Bath,
at Mansfield.
sylvestris. Long-leaved Horse Mint : by the water
side, at Radford.
Mercurialis perennis. Dog's Mercury : in Colwick wood.
Maium pahtftre. Marsh Mmiim : in Basford Srottum.
Myosurus minimus. Mouse-tail : in corn-fields ; between
Radford and Woolaton Park.
Nepeta Cataria. Cat Mint : on dry banks.
Nymphaa alba. White Water Lily ; in | j^ and
ponds and slow rivers f mtm-mtM*
lutea. Yellow Water Lily : $ el
Ononis inermis. Hairy Resthajrow : about Radford hollows,
also about the lower walk of Clifton hall.
Onopurdum. acanthium. Cotton Thistle : on the banks of
closes, about Nottingham.
Ophioglossum •vulgatum. Adder's Tongue : in Gedling me a-
dows; in a close near Newthorpe common,
and in several closes about Eastwood.
Ophrys Apifera. Bee Orchis : in chalky meadows and pas-
tures at Asply.
ovata. Tway Blade : in several closes about Asply
and Colw ick wood, near the brick kilns.
muscifera. Fly Oichys: jn chalky meadows and pas-
tures; at Asply.
spirzlis. Triple Ladies Traces ; in a close at Colwick.
Orchis conopsea. Sweet Orchis; in meadows and pastures
at Asply.
, — latifolia. Broad-leaved Orchis ; in several places about
Scottum.
pyramidalis. Purple late-flowering Orchis ; in mea-
dows and pastures of a chalky soil : at Asply.
Origanum Tiilgare. Common Marjoram : on Colwick hills.
Orobanckc major. Broom Rape : amongst the gorse at Mans-
field.
Orobns tuberosus. Wood Pease, or Heath Pease-: in the
coppices at Nottingham.
Oimunda lunaria. Moon-wort : in a close at East vood.
regalis. Osmund Royal : in Leavers close, near
Mansfield.
• spicant. Rough Spleen wort : on Bury hills, at
Mansfield.
Oxalis Acetosdla. Wood Sorrel; in the coppices at Not-
tingham.
Parietaria officinalis. Pellitory of the wall ; on Nottingham
Castle, and elsewhere.
Paris quadrifolia. Herb Paris ; True Love, or One berry :
in Colwick wood, and at Asply.
Parnassia palustris. Grass of Parnassus: in wet meadows;
at Basford Scottum, and in the Dam close at
Papplewick.
Pedicularis palustris. Marsh Red Rattle, or Lou'e-wort ; on
bogs and wet meadows ; in Radford Field, and
elsewhere.
Peucedanum officinal*. Sulphur-wort, or Hog's Fennel ; in
Colwick wood, and elsewhere.
Peziza acetabulum. Cup Peziza; on rotten wood; on Col-
wick hills, and in Pleshy forges.
coccinea. Scarlet Cup Peziza : on rotten wood, on
Colwick hills.
cyathoides. Smooth Peziza ; on rotton \
wood. f in Colwick
fulta. Orange Peziza: on dung and f wood.
on gravel. )
scutellata. Ciliated Peziza : on a boggj place, called
the Black hills at Mansfield.
VOL. IV. — NO. 142.
Pinguicula vulgaris. Yorkshire S.micle, or Butterwort ; in
Basford Scottum, and in VVhitemore close.
Phallus esculentus. Esculent Morel : in woods and hedges,
near Asply, and at Brookstow.
Potamogeton crispuin. Curled Pond-weed: or Greater Water
Caltrops; in a ditch behind Nottingham spaw..
• lucens. Shining Pond-weed : in the Trent.
perfoliatum. Perforate Pond weed : in a ditch
at the Trent bridge.
Rotentilla argentea. Tormentil Cinquefoil : on the sandy
rock just belaw the pinfold at Nottingham,
leading to Railford.
Polygonum Bistorta. Greater BUtnrt, or Snake-weed : in a
close, between Lcnton church-yard, and in
Leen.
Polypodiumaculeatum. Prickly auriculatel in woods and
male fern : > shady places at
cristatum.. Crested Polypody. ) St. Ann's Well
Dryopteris. Branched Polypody : on the rock.
near Pleshy forge.
Filix fasmina. Female Fern ; behind St. Ann's
Well, and elsewhere.
Lonchitis Rough Polypody : in Bury Field,
near Mansfield.
^— vulgare. Common Polypody: on trees and dry
banks; in Nottingham Park, and elsewhere.
Poterium sanguisorba. Common Buruet ; in the close lead-
ing to the cherry holts, at Asply.
Prcnanthes muralis. Ivy-leaved Wall Lettuce ; on Asply and
Basford church walls.
Prunus cerasus. Bird Cherry : in Nottingham park, on Clif-
ton hill, and in Blidsworth Field.
Ranunculus auricomus. Wood, Crow foot, or Golden locks :
in Colwick wood, and elsewhere.
• Lingua. Great Spear-Wort : in wet meadows and
on banks of lakes : in Basford Scottum, and
on a moor between Bridgeford and Gamstnn.
— ^— aquatilis S. Fennel-leaved Water Crow-foot : in
ditches ; at Mapperley.
Rhamnus catharticus. Buckthorn : at Basford, BuKvell, and
elsewhere.
Jiibes nigrum. Black Currants, or Squinancy berries ; in the
closes by the Leen at Basford.
Rosa Eelanteria. Sweet Briar, or Eglantine : on Colwick
hills.
— — spinosissima. Burnet Rose ; on the sand hill?.
Rubus idcEUS. Raspberry, Framboise, or Himlberry : in a
hedge between Brockstow and Nuttal.
ctzsius. Dewberry ; between Clifton hall and Barton ;
and elsewhere.
Rumex maritimus. Goldtn dock by the Leen sjde, going
from Snenton meadows towards the Trent.
sanguineies. Blood Dock : in woods ; at Mansfield.
Sagittaria sagittifolici. Arrow head; in moist ditches about
Nottingham.
Salix rcpcns /3. A variety of Creeping Willow : ) in Basford
y. Arenaria. Sand Willow J Scottum.
Salvia -cerbenacea. Clary : in the yard of Nottingham Castle,
plentifully, and elsewhere.
Sambucus Ebulus. Dwarf Elder, or Danewort ; in a close
overagainst Gam^lon, and in Bunny lane..
. nigra ft. Elder with a green fruit : in Graves lane,
near Oxton.
Sanguisorba officinalis. Burnet Saxifrage ; in moist meadoxvs
and pastures about Nottingham.
Sanicula Europea. Sanicle : in Colwick wood.
Saponaria oj/icinalis. Soapw ort : in meadows and hedges ; near
Mansfield.
c Satyrivm
10
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
kingdom of Mercia ; and, after (he consolidation of
the heptarchy, it continued to be governed by the
Earls of that title. On the arrival of the Normans,
similar changes took place here, as in other counties ;
and the subsequent history of Northamptonshire is
closely connected with that of the kingdom at large.
This county contains few British Antiquities.
"t here is an ancient camp at Barton, about four
uiiles S. W. of Nottingham. It was formerly called
British Hill, but now Brent's Hill. The fortifica-
tions which were on its summit have long been
levelled in the dust, but there are sufficient vestiges |
on its sides to show that it must have been a place ;
capable of an obstinate defence. Coins have at !
different times been found here. — At Oxton, are j
three large tumuli, the largest of which is fifty-three
feet in diameter. The late major Rooke found in i
it an urn made of iron, filled with ashes and burned
bones ; also a large sword in a wooden scabbard,
broken into several pieces, two daggers, and some
coloured glass beads. He considered it to be the j
tomb of some British warrior. — In the western limits
of Worksop Park, are several ancient tumuli, which
have now some very old oaks growing out of them.
Satyrium hirsinum. Lizard Salmon ; in Colmvick wood, and
at the bottom of Clifton hill.
Suxifruga granulata. White Saxifrage ; in meadows and
pastures.
Schtcnus Jiigr icans. Black Bogrush; in Basford Scoltum.
Scirpus syiruticus. Millet Cjperus Grass : in a marshy close
at Nottingham, between the Leen and the park.
ScTOphularta Scorodoniu. Baulm-leaved Figwort : in watery
places and hedges ; at Woolaton.
Senecio cruci/olius. Hoary Groundsel ; about Mansfield and
elsewhere.
Serratula tinctoria. Common Saw-wort ; in the hollows with-
out the gate, opening towards Radford lings,
coming from Larkdale.
Silene nutans. Nottingham Catch-fly ; on the walls at Not-
tingham Castle.
Smymium Olus-atrum. Alexanders: upon moist rocks about
Nottingham, especially of the castle.
Solidago Pirgaurea. Common Golden Rod : in the hollows
without the gate, opening towards Radford
lings.
Vorbus Jucuparia. Mountain Ash, or Quicken Tree ; on the
walls of Nottingham.
Jiparganium ramosum. Greater Bur-reed : in a pom! between
the bowling-green, and the gardener's house at
Holmpierpont.
Spiraa Fitipendula. Common Dropwort : on the side of the
road, leading from the sand hills to Radford
church, in a close near Asply hall, and about
Woolaton.
Stdluria. graminea y. A variety of Lesser Stitchworl : in wet
meadows and near springs ; among the gorse
on Nottingham lings, and elsewhere.
Symphytum qfficinale, flore purpureo. Cormnpn Comfrey,
with a purple flower ; on a bank of a watery
ditch, near Trent bridge, going to Wilford.
Tunacetum vulgart. Common Tansey : in a close at Wilford,
and elsewhere.
Tuxus Europaiu. Eugh : in the hedges about Blidworth, and
about Moore green.
Thalictum Jlavum. Meadow Rue : on the side of a watery
ditch, beyond Nottingham Spaw, going to
Wilford and elsewhere.
Of Roman Antiquities, there are many specimens
in various parts. The great camp on Holly hill near
Arnold is supposed to have been the central depot
of the Roman forces in this district. Dr. Gale
thought that this was the CatiseHiies of that military
people. About two miles from Mansfield, are some
vestiges of a curious Roman villa, discovered by Mr.
Rooke ; and, in various parts of the county, have
been found spears, fibulae, keys of brass, &c. evi-
dently of Roman workmanship. Brass celts have
also been found.
The Roman roads liave been numerous. — Near
Willoughby on the Wolds, the ancient Fossway
enters from Leicestershire, passes on to Newark,
crosses the Ermine Street from London to York,
and then enters Lincolnshire. This road may be
easily traced for many miles along the wolds-, and
is literally a fosse, dug so deep that an army might
march along it, even now, without being seen ex-
cept by those on the very edge of the bank. Several
of the roads through the wolds cross it in different
places, particularly about Owthorpe, and in many
parts the remains of the old pitching with stones set
on edge may be found by clearing away the grass
Trugopogon luttum. Goat's Beard, or go to bed at noon :
upon the rocks at Nottingham Castle, in the
park, and elsewhere.
Tre me lla granulata. Granulated Tremella : in banks of ditches
and rivers, and in sandy wet woods: at the
bottom of Mapperley hill, coming from Not-
tingham.
Juniperina. Yellow Tremella; on Juniper, Furze ;
and Broom : at Wilford.
Trifolium alpestre. Perennial Trefoil, or Marie Grass : in moun-
tainous meadows and pastures here and there.
Melelotus officinalis. Melelot : in Radford Field,
and elsewhere.
striatum. Knotted Trefoil : on the castle rock facing
Lenton in Nottingham park, and elsewhere.
subterraneum. Dwarf Trefoil: in Nottingham park,
plentifully.
Turritis glabra. Smooth Tower Mustard: in the fields between
Radtord and Lenton.
Tussilago Farfara. Coltsfoot ; in Whitemoor close plentifully,
and elsewhere.
• hybrida. Stalked Butterbur : in the yard of the mill
at Lenton, and in the road to Wallaton hall.
Petasites. Butter Bur; in Basford church yard, and
elsewhere.
Typha latifolid. Greater Cats-tail, or Reed Mace : in a watery
part of a close at Chiswell, three miles from
Nottingham, and in a pond at Mansfield.
raccinium Myrtillus. Bilberries, or Whorble Berries : in
several parts of Nottingham lings, in Lord
Byron's park at Newstead, and in Sherwood
Forest.
yalantia cruciata. Cross-wort ; in Larkdale, Wood lane,
Colwicklane, and elsewhere.
f'aleriana dioica £. A variety of Marsh Valerian ; in Basford
Scottum.
officinalis &. A variety of Wild Valerian : on a bank
on the left hand, going up Mapperly hill.
Vervascum iychnitis f,. Hoary Mullein : upon walls and dry
places ; about Watlaton hall, and elsewhere.
Ufaa compressa. Coinpressed Laver : on the sea-shore, and
in the Trent on the back side ot Clifton hall,
in plenty.
and
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
11
and weeds. The forest tracts also contain many
vestiges of those military ways, which are invariably
in a north-west direction, and in many places ac-
companied by exploratory camps. One of these
roails commences at Newark, and goes through part
of Southwell, in a line between Norwood Park and
Kirklington ; when it enters the forest, we lose it
for a short distance, nor do we find it again until
it shews itself in an elevated ridge near Rainworth
water. This had been for many centuries, since
the conquest, the old road from Newark to Mans-
field. To the southward of Mansfield also, near
the Hut, are several fragments.
Of ancient Sepulchral Monuments, the number is
small ; for, with the exception of the Furnival and
Lovetot monuments at Radford, there are none
older than the 14th century, of which period, Mr.
Gough could discover but six cross-legged figures
of crusaders, one of which is at Flinthara, and be-
longs to the Ilusseys. . .
CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION, &c.] —
This county was under the same sheriff with that of
Derby, till after the reign of Edward 111. — Not-
tinghamshire is divided into 6 hundreds, or wapen-
iakes, besides the liberty of Southwell and Scroo-
by ; and the entire county comprises 207 parishes,
and 3 parts of parishes, having 6 petty sessions,
and 52 county magistrates. North of the Trent,
there are now three wapentakes, which at the time
of the Domesday survey, were five in number.
Broxton has undergone no change since that period.
Thurgarton has had the ancient hundred of Lyda
joined with it; Bassetlaw contains the ancient hun-
dred of Oswardebeck, which now forms the north
clay division ; and, having also the south clay and
Hatfield divisions, is considered as equal to three
hundreds. — South of the Trent, are the three wapen-
takes of Rushcliff, Bingham, or Binghamshore, and
Newark ; but these, though nominally equal to one
half the county, do not contain quite one third of
its superfices. It has been said, ttiat the hundreds
of Bassetlow and Newark are equal to the other
four, if the town of Nottingham be left out of the
calculation. Another mode of division has long ex-
isted, drawn from the nature of the soil : the western
district is called the Sand, and the eastern part of
the county the Clay : The former is in general woody
or barren ; the latter highly fertile both as arable
and pasture, and subdivided into the north and south
clays. — This county, which, as recently as the time
of Elizabeth, had a bishop of its own, is now under
the see of York. It has an archdeaconry, and the
4 deaneries of Nottingham, Retford, Newark, and
Bingham.
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.] — Notting-
hamshire returns eight members to Parliament : two
for the county ; and two for each of the boroughs
of Nottingham, Newark, and Retford.
TRADE, MANUFACTURES, &c. — The commercial,
manufacturing, and trading interests of this county
have been greatly benefittcd by the numerous im-
provements, of late years, in its inland navigation.
— The exports, passing either from or through the
county, and forming a very lucrative business, are
lead, copper, coals, and salt from Derbyshire and
Cheshire ; Staffordshire ware in considerable quan-
tities ; lime and limestone for agricultural purposes ;
chirt stone for the glass manufactories ; coarse
earthern wares ; pig iron, and cast metal goods ;
oak timber and bark ; and sail cloth. The imports
are timber, hemp, flax, and iron from the northern
parts of Europe ; malt, corn, and flour; groceries
of all kinds; wines and spirits ; cotton, wool, and
yarn ; large quantities of Hints from Northfleet and
the various chalk-pits near the Thames, for the use
of the Staffordshire potteries ; with all sorts of raw
materials for inland manufactures. — The Stocking
manufactory is the staple of the county. Though it
suffered greatly during the war, it has, since the return
of peace, assumed its pristine energy. Manufactures
of cotton goods are also carried on very extensively.
The Malting business is another lucrative branch,
principally at Nottingham, Newark, and Mansfield.
This is both for home consumption, and exportation
to other counties. The Breweries at Nottingham and
Newark are objects of great importance. At the
latter pl;ice in particular, they consider themselves
as powerful rivals of the Burton brewers. Silk
mills have been established at Nottingham, to be
worked by horses ; for, though there is much water
round that town, the frequent floods preclude all
possibility of employing water mills, except by the
adoption of a particular principle. — The Thread
and British Lace manufactures have long been
carried on upon an ext nsive scale. There are Pot-
teries of coarse red earthen ware at Sutton in Ash-
field ; a starch manufactory at Upton near South-
well; a sailcloth manufactory at Retford ; and the
dying and bleaching trade is carried on with consi-
derable success both at Nottingham and Newark.
Considerable sums have been annually received at
Mansfield by the stone trade ; and there is also
something dune there in the manufacture of artificial
stone.
ROADS.] — Generally speaking, the roads of this
county are in very good condition ; a circumstance
which is attributable to the exertions of the gentry
and the higher order of the farmers.
MARKET TOWNS.] — The following are the market
towns of this county :
Population.
Toivns. Market-days. 1601 1811
Bingham Thursday 1082 1326
Mansfield Thursday 5988 6861
Newark Wednesday 6730 7236
Nottingham. ..Wed. Friday and Sat 28,861 34,253
Ollerton Friday 439 462
Southwell Saturday 2305 2674
Tiixford Monday 785 841
Worksop Wednesday 3263 3702
FAIRS.] — Eiughnm — February 13, and 14, for
horses of the strong kind. First Thursday in May,
for a shew of horses, horned cattle, sheep, and swine ;
Whit-
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
Whitsun-Thursday, May 31, November 8, and 9,
chiefly foals and hops.
B/i/t/t — Holy-Thursday, for cattle and horses.
October 20, for sheep and swine.
Dunholmr. — August 12, for cattle and merchandise.
Eiiiiistone — October 24, for cattle, horses, and
swine.
Gringley — December 12, for cattle and merchan-
dise, and remarkable for quantities of boots and shoes.
Lentait, near Nottingham — Wednesday in Whit-
sun-week ; Martinmas, November 11, for horned
cattle, sheep, and hops.
Mansfie/d — First Thursday in April, July 10, for
horned cattle and hogs. Ihis has not been set up
many years, and is called a meeting, having no char-
ter for a fair on that day. Second Thursday in
October, for horses and cheese.
Marnham — September 12 ; for horses, horned
cattle, swine', and merchandise.
Newark — Friday in Midlent, May 14, Whitsun-
Tuesday, August 2, and 28, and every otherWednes-
day for cattle and sheep ; November 12, for horses,
cattle, sheep, pigs, linen, and woollen cloth. Monday
before December 11, horses, cattle, sheep and pigs.
Nottingham — Friday after January 13, March 7
and 8 ; Thursday before Easter, horses, and horned
cattle. October 2, 3, 4 ditto, a great fair for cheese,
and all sorts of goods.
Ollerton — May 1, cattle, sheep, and pedlary ; Sep-
tember 27, hops.
Retford — March 23, October 2, horses and beasts.
Southwell — Whit-Monday, for horses, horned cat-
tle, sheep, swine and merchandise.
Tuxford — September 23, hops. September 28,
hops. May 12, cattle, sheep, pigs, and millinery.
IVorsop — Monday before Whit-Monday, Novem-
ber 17, for cattle, and horses.
Worksop — March 31, a few cattle. October 14,
for cattle, horses, and pedlary.
POPULATION, &c.] — The population of this county,
in the year 1700, was 65,20Q ; in 1750, 77,600 ; in
1801, 140,350; of whom, 68,558 were males, and
71,792 females: in 1811, as appears in the table
below, the entire population was 162,900. — The
annual proportion of births, in this county, is as 1
to 32 ; of marriages, as 1 to 119 ; and of deaths, as
1 to 52.
Summary of the Population of the County of NOTTINGHAMSHIRE, as published by Authority of Parliament, in 1811.
HUNDREDS, &c.
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
Inhabited.
•» lf: "^
y ti v
th
a
«
nhabited.
QJ .— 4j
"u 55 3
"* £"* 3
flJ*
rt "•** r* • w
JH 5 c J2
Males.
Females
Total
of
Persons
il
^ C-~3 3
o 2 ° cC
c
5 ~ oo
«£<;
£ s 2 y
ftf flj r g
-- « — r^
Bassetlaw, Hatfield Division
3001
1730
1314
1951
7922
1152
16S7
1726
2864
1483
6514
3053
1865
1378
2075
8435
1268
1812
1794
3009
1595
7230
15
8
4
13
32
8
7
8
16
12
41
64
54
23
26
320
35
31
49
56
9
287
1902
1010
1046
1352
1796
842
1061
1091
1685
388
110
886
676
268
569
6295
254
612
466
1104
983
6815
265
179
64
144
344
172
139
237
220
224
305
7098
4027
3052
4972
20566
2889
4524
4182
7569
3319
15495
1364
7504
4457
3131
5070
21552
2924
4481
4420
7629
3917
18758
14602
8484
6183
10042
42118
5813
9005
8602
15198
7236
34253
1364
Bingham N. and S. Do
Broxtow Do. Do. Do
Newark Do. Do. Do
Rushcliff Do. Do. Do.
Liberty of Southwell ?
Tlmrgarton N.and S )
Borough of Newark )
Town and County of the... )
town of Nottingham 5
Totals ' 31344
33514
164
954
12293
18928
2293
79,57
83.843
162900
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
ATTENBOROUGH.] — This little village, supposed to
be the ancient Attenton, lies nearly on the banks of
the Trent. Its church is large, and also well filled,
as it serves for Chilwell, Toueton, and part of Bram-
* He was the elcleiison of Gervase Ireton, Esq. and brother
to Sir John Ireton, lord mayor of London, in 1658. He was a
cote. It has some armorial glass, and some rude
figures on the capitals of the pillars ; but the monu-
mental remains are few.' This place is remarkable,
lor having given birth to Henry Ireton, the regicide,
sou- in-law of Cromwell.*
BABWORTH*.
gentleman commoner of Trinity College, Oxford, in 1629,
and at the age of 19, he look one degree in art*. Wood lefls
us,
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
BABWORTH.] — The village of Babworth, is 1| mile
W. from Retford. Bab worth Hall, the seat of the
Hon. J. B. Simpson, is a neat white-fronted edifice,
the grounds of which were laid out by the celebrated
Repton. — Babworth church, which is kept in excel-
lent order, is a neat Gothic building, at a short dis-
tance from the mansion. It has a small steeple, and
there-are two young trees growing out of the roof of
the south porch. Near the church is a sequestered
little residence of the Rev. Archdeacon Eyre, the
reetor, in which comfort and elegance are blended.
Here is a well conducted Sunday-school.
On the other side of Babworth, the ground begins
to rise, and to display the most enchanting scenery
of woods, lawns, glades, heaths, cultivated farms, and
ornamental seats. Sometimes the road runs along-
side of the Chesterfield canal, at others it sinks into
the forest dells, and at length reaches Osberton
House, the elegant seat of Mr. Foljambe. The
surrounding estate abounds with wood, which is
annually increasing in richness and beauty. The
ground on which the house stands, rises witli a con-
siderable degree of boldness on the south side of the
river ; but the views are more picturesque than ex-
tensive. The house has, in front, an elegant portico
of four fluted Ionic pillars, supporting a highly orna-
mented architrave and pediment. To the north, on
the great north road, is Barnby Moor, a small hamlet,
having some excellent houses, a large and comfort-
able inn, and a posting house.*
BASFORD.] — Basford, 2£ miles N. N. W. from
Nottingham, lies in a bottom, approached from the
race ground. The scenery around it, is rich in the
extreme. This village has greatly increased of lute,
from various manufactures, and the improvements
us, that had the character in that college, of a stubborn and
saucy fellow towards the seniors. Afterwards he went to the
Middle Temple, where he learned some grounds of the common
law. When the rebellion broke out, he took up arms against
the king, was a recruiter in the long parliament, and about that
time married Bridget, one of the daughters of Cromwell, then
only colonel of a regiment. He became first a captain, after-
wards colonel, and at length commissary-general, in 1645. He
is said to have been the best prayer maker and preacher in the
whole army. He drew up the famous remonstrance of the
army, requiring justice to be done on their sovereign. At this
period he was also a commissioner of the navy, and was very
active in writing pamphlets, and in drawing up the declarations,
&c.of the army, as well as most of the letters that passed between
Fairfax and the parliament, before the death of Charles. He
sat as a judge on the king's (rial, and wa« one of the committee
appointed the time and place of execution; In Cromwell's
edition to Ireland, he was appointed second in command with
that a
expe
the rank of major general, and was afterwards made president of
Minister; but being left as deputy by Cromwell, in 1649, he died
the next year, of a sudden disorder, at Limeric. On his death,
the parliament settled a pension of 20001. per annum upon his
widow and children, out of the estates of the Duke of Buck-
ingham.
* The late Paul Sandly, Esq. R. A. who died at Padington,
on the 8th of November, 1809, was descended from a branch
of the Sandby family, of Babworth, and was born at Notting-
ham, in 1732. In 1746, he went to London, and having an
early bias towards the arts, he got introduced into the drawing-
room of the Tower. Henre, after two years, he was appointed
draughtsman under the inspection of Mr. David Watson, who
VOL. IV. — NO. 142.
consequent upon them. Here are corn and cotton -
mills, and the bleaching and dyeing branches of
business are carried on, with considerable success.
The church hns a very handsome spire ; with a nave
and side aisles in very good order ; but there are no
ancient inscriptions. The importance of this place
has also been kept up, by its being the sent of the
court of the honour of Perverel, since it was removed
from Nottingham. It sits twice in the year, to try
causes as highns 50/. A gaol for the court is situ-
ated here, which Howard describes as having, at the
time of his writing, merely one room, with three beds ;
but the keeper told him, he had another little room
for women prisoners, of whom there being none in
his custody, he applied the apartment to domestic
uses. A bowling green close by the gaol is much
frequented by the inhabitants of Nottingham.— At
Mapperley, a hamlet in this parish, is a handsome
seat of Ichabod Wright, Esq. a banker of Notting-
ham.
BILBOROUGH.]— In Bilborough, fourtnilesW.N.W.
from Nottingham, are some coal-mines; and the parish
is remarkable for containing the hamlet ofBroxtow ;
which, as a place of consequence in the Saxon times,
gave name to the hundred. The manor-house is
ancient.
BILSTHORPE.] — The little village of Bilsthorpe,
about three miles to the right of Rufford, on the road
to Ollerton, was formerly in the heart of the forest.
Its church contains several monuments ; and, in the
church-yard, appears the following epitaph : —
" Little Mary's dead and gone,
And was a loving
And a precious wife to little John
Fletcher."
was employed by the late Duke of Cumberland to take a survey
of the Highlands During this excursion, he made several
sketches from the terrific scenery of that romantic country,
from which he afterwards made a number of small etchings,
which were published in a folio volume. From this circum-
stance, perhaps, we may account for the bold and striking
style, by which the paintings of this excellent artist are so pecu-
liarly distinguished. In 1752, he quitted this employment, and
resided with his bro'her at Windsor. Several of the most beau-
tiful views in the neighbourhood of Windsor and Eton now be-
came the subjects of his pencil ; htre also he attained that skill in
depicting Gothic architecture, which gave so beautiful an effect
to those landscapes, that Sir J. Banks purchased them all at a
very liberal price. Mr. Sandby soon after attended that great
naturalist in a tour through North and South Wales, where he
took several sketches, which he transferred to copper-plates and
made several sets of prints in imitation of drawings in Indian
ink. In 1753, he was one of the members of an academy
which met in St. Martin's lane, and was, with several others,
desirous of establishing a society on a broader basis; this was
strenuously opposed by the celebrated Hogarth, which drew on
him the attacks of his brother artists. Among others, Mr.
Sandby (then a very young man) published several prints in ridi-
cule of his Analysis of Beauty, which he afterwards declared,
had he known Hogarth's merit as he did since, he would on nn
account have done. On the institution of the Royal Academy,
Mr. Sandby was elected a Royal Academician. By the recom-
mendation of the Duke of Grafton, the Marquis of Granby
appointed him, in 1768, chief drawing master of the Royal
Academy at Woolwich, which office he held to the day of his
death.
• In
14
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
In the old mansion-house, near the church, Charles I.
is said to have been some time secreted.
BINGHAM.]: — The little, and now insignificant mar-
ket-town of Bingham, which gives name to ono of
the hundreds, stands in a low situation, nine miles
B. from Nottingham, and 108 N. N/W. from Lon-
don. It anciently contained the college of St. Mary ;
but of that, however, there are now no vestiges, nor
of two ehnpels, and a chantry in the chapel of St.
Helen. The market place is extensive, and has very
commodious shambles. Near it is the vicarage, a
handsome modern dwelling. The church is a spe-
cimen of the ancient Gothic. In the church-yard is
a stone, bearing- the following inscription : —
" Thomas Baxter, many years a Serjeant in the 96th
regiment, of foot, aged 73 years, and Samuel liaxter
his brother, a singer and change-rineer, died in the
house, on Wednesday the 2nd of December,
1789, and were interred in one grave, near this place,
on the Sunday evening following."
This town has a good charity-school for both sexes ;
and, amongst the several donations left to the poor,
ia the interest of 80/. given away every Easter Mon-
day, which principal is the surplus of 140/. acquired
in the springs of 1781 and 1785, by several spirited
young gentlemen of the town, by performing two
tragedies and four comedies for the benefit of the
poor. — Mr. Robert White, in the humble station of
a school-master here, was recommended by the late
Dr. Maskelyne to his Majesty as a proper person-to
assist in the prosecution of a considerable astrono-
mical work, which, however, he modestly declined.
He was for many years, the compiler of almanacks
for the Stationers' Company, and published the
" Celestial Atlas," which was long in high repute.
He died in 1783, at the age of 01. — Henry Porter,
of this town, differing in opinion with his relatives OH
religious matters, gav,e orders that his body should
not be buried amongst them, but on the outside of the
church, against the North wall.
BL\THE.] — The village of Blythe, anciently a
market town, lies 6^ miles N.W. from East Retford.
After the Conquest, Roger de Busli had a castle
here, and procured for it the title of an honour. This
Roger, " being of a pious and grateful disposition,
with the consent of his wife Muriel did for the stabi-
lity of William then king of England, (who had
given him a full fourth part of this county, if not
more, besides what he had given him in others) and
of his successors, as also for the health of the soul of
queen Maud, and their own, by the-advice of their
friends, erect a priory in this town, and by way of
endowment gave and granted to God, St. Mary, and
the monks there serving God, the church of Blythe,
and the whole town entirely, with all the privileges
and customs thereunto belonging." Here, also was
an hospital for a warden, three chaplains, and several
leprous people, founded by William de Cressi, lord
of Hodesac. The church is a capacious elegant
structure, with a very handsome ancient
tower ; and at the east end facing the high road
there is an elegant arch inserted in the wall, which
must have led to a former chancel, or have been the
remains of some other religious building attached to
the church. Embowered in a shrubbery, it has a
very picturesque appearance, and seems a continua-
tion of the ornamental paddock in which stands a
large, though not very modern, residence, recently
occupied by the Duchess Dowager of Newcastle.
The interior of the church presents a noble nave with
arches supported by lofty pillars, and interspersed
I with some splendid monuments of the Mellishes.
I This was evidently the priory church, as the remains
I of that ancient building adjoin to it. — " The vici-
nity of this town, as a scene of ornamented cultiva-
tion, is delightful. The whole expanse of ground,
; for a considerable extent, seems a complete garden,
i embracing not only the grounds belonging to the
I mansion of the Mellishes, but also those of Serlby
Hall, the seat of Lord Galway, with all their lawns,
winding walks, and shady groves. The high road
itself seems an ornamental walk, leading over a
I superb bridge, built of Roch Abbey stone, by the
grand-father of the present possessor, for the con-
venience of crossing the extensive piece of water,
formed on a most magnificent scale by damming up
the river Idle and the little brook called Ryton which
runs through these grounds. — When Mr. Young
wrote his 'Agricultural Tour,' the town of BIyth
and the country round it, for several miles, belonged
to William Mellish, Esq. to whom, Blythe Hall is
indebted for all its modern improvements. Rebuilt,
as it were, on the site of the ancient hall, it is now
of considerable magnitude, being formed of brick,
ornamented with stone. — The most elegant apart-
ment is a magnificent drawing room, forty feet long,
twenty-two brood, and eighteen in height, with a
circular bow window of twenty-one feet span, so as
to form a very agreeable proportion. The chimney-
piece is extremely elegant, consisting of Ionic pil-
lars formed of Egyptian granite, fluted with stripes
of white marble, and supporting the frieze, in which
is a tablet with an ancient sacrifice in bas relief. The
furniture is equally rich with the beauty of the apart-
ment : the chairs and carpet are of crimson velvet,
embroidered with yellow silk. The view from this
apartment, and from many of the others, is extremely
grand, stretching over a fine piece of water, wind-
ing through the. lawn for a mile and a half, and of
the breadth of from 150 to 200 feet.— The late Mr.
Mellish made ten miles of road, at his own expense,
and a river four miles long, and ten yards wide,
as a drainage to a large extent of low land in the
centre of his estate, capable of being made as fine
meadow as any in England. He also built several
farm houses ; above thirty cottages, all in the most
substantial manner, of brick and tile ; and a hand-
some and extensive pile of stabling. He also orna-
mented the estate with upwards of two hundred
acres of plantations."
Serlby Hall, in early times the manor of Alured
the
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
15
the Saxon, at the Conquest was given to Roger de
Husli, and now belongs to Lord Galway. The pre-
sent mansion is of brick and stone, consisting of a
centre of a very handsome elevation, with two wings,
having the offices in the underground story, and the
stables and out offices on the eastern side. The
situation is fine : on the south front is a spacious
lawn, beautifully interspersed with clumps of trees ;
whilst the north front has a charming prospect over
some luxuriant meadows, watered by the little river
Ryton. The principal plantations are on the south
west. The terrace is much admired, for its own
beauty, and for the exquisite view which commands
it." The interior of the house is elegant and com-
modious. Amongst many fine paintings, are two un-
doubted originals by Hans Holbein ; a portrait of
Henry the Eighth on wood ; and a portrait of Nicho-
las Kreatzer, astronomer to that monarch. In the
drawing room is a picture, twelve feet two inches in
height, and fifteen feet four in breadth, from the pen-
cil of Daniel Myton. Its subject is Charles the
First and his queen, with two horses, on one of
which is a side saddle, and some dogs, all as large
as life. It also contains a figure of Jeffery Hudson,
the famous dwarf, who is in the act of striving to
keep back two small dogs. This picture having
come into the possession of Queen Anne, was pre-
sented to Addison, from whom it came to the Arun-
dels, of which family is its present noble owner.
BniDOEFORD.] — The ancient village of Bast Bridge-
ford, eight miles E. N. E. from Nottingham, occu-
pies the site of a Roman station, of which it exhibits
many vestiges ; and, evidently, it was formerly a
place of considerable consequence. Stukeley con-
siders it to have been the station Ad Pontem, and
that there was a bridge here in the time of the
Romans ; but Horseley, and other antiquaries, re-
gard it as the Margiodunum of the 6th Iter of An-
toninus.— Here is a charity school, for 10 boys, sup-
ported by voluntary contributions. Colonel Hacker,
the regicide, who attended Charles I. to the scaffold,
* Tliis gentleman was remarkable for his skill in, and fondness
for, the art of wrestling. The inscription on his monument
informs us that he was a great wrestler, anil jusiice of peace
for Nolls and Leicestershire ; that be. new-tooled the chancel,
built the vault below, and erected this monument wrought out
of a fine piece of marble by his chaplain in a barn ; that lie
studied physic for the benefit of his neighbours ; that he wrote
the "Cornish Hug Wrestler;" and that he died in 1741, aged
78. He had two wives ; one a grand-daughter of a London
alderman ; the oilier an alderman's daughter of York. He had
two or three stnne coffins made for himself, to take his choice,
and there is one of ihem now in the church unoccupied. Not-
withstanding some eccentricities in his character, he was upright
and intelligent, possessed all the learning of his day, and, at Ins
decease, was lamented as an excellent magistrate. On his
monument in the church, he is represented in a posture ready
for wrestling; and on another part of it, he appears thrown by
Time, accompanied with a Latin stanza, said to be written by
Dr. Friend, of which the following is a translation : —
" At length he falls, the long, long contesl's o'er,
And Time has thrown, whom none e'er threw before ;
was born here. His two brothers were staunch
royalists, and one of them sealed the cause with his
blood. The Colenel suffered as a traitor, and his
estates were confiscated
The agreeable little village of West Bridgeford
is two miles S. S. E. from Nottingham. The church
has a pretty light tower, with three bells.
BULWELL.] — In this large village, four miles N.
W. by N. from Nottingham, the inhabitants are prin-
cipally employed in cotton printing, and in bleach-
ing : it has also some extensive lime works. Part
of the parish is in the forest ; the rest is inclosed.
The ancient manor-house, Bulwell Woodhall, is now
the residence of a farmer ; but a handsome house
was built here, some years ago, by John Newton,
Esq.
BUNNY.] — Bunny is a straggling village, on the
high road, 7| miles S. by E. from Nottingham. It
appears to have been indebted for its origin to the
ancient seat of Bunny Park Hall, once belonging
to the Parkyns family, and now to their descendant,
I^ord Ratcliffe. This family have been great bene-
factors to the village, which contains a good school
house and hospital, the former erected in 1700 for
the poor children of Bunny and its hamlet of Brad-
more ; and the latter having four rooms for four
poor widows, and endowed by Dame Anne Parkyns,
and her husband, Sir Thomas. — In the church chan-
cel, is the tomb of Sir Thomas Parkyns, Bart, famous
as a wrestler in the last century .*
Bunny Park Hall is a strong massy pile, in ap-
pearance a ruin ; but the apartments are lofty and
commodious, and contain many good family por-
traits. The park has a fine sheet of water, and a
long avenue of fine lofty trees.
CARLTON.]— The village of Carlton, in Lindrick,
3| miles N. by E. from Worksop, is entirely sup-
ported by the stocking manufacture.
Carleton-upon-Trent is a pleasant village on (he
great north road, C| miles N. from Newark. Its
little chapel is curious. The mansion house, built
Yet boast act Time ! thy victory, for he
At last shall rise again, and conquer thee."
Sir Thomas, who trained not only his servants and neighbours,
but many others, to this manly exercise, and often exhibited his
pupils on public occasions, by Ins will left a guinea to be wrestled
for every Midsummer's day, as well as money to the ringers, of
whom he always made one upon these occasions. His fondness
for displaying his skill in Latin was almost equal to that of
wrestling. In his book on the " In Play, or the Cornish Hug
Wrestler," Sir Thomas, in speaking of the excellence of his art,
says " I receive no limber hams, no darling sucking bottles, who
must not rise at Midsummer till eleven of the clock, till the fire
has aired his room, and cloathes, of his colliquative sweats,
raised by high sauces, and spicy forced meats, where the cook
does the office of the stomach, « ith the emetic tea table, set out
with bread and butter for his breakfast ; I'll scarce admit a sheep
eater; none but beefeaters will go down with me." He then
endeavours to inspire his readers with a fondness for the art
by the hopes of gaining the approbation of the fair sex, laughs
at the Norfolk Out play, and (thcugh with a marginal note of
' Honi soit qui inal y pense) gives a sly hint about the Bedford-
shire In play, and the close Cornish Hug.
about
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
about the middle of the 18th century, was formerly I
the residence of Sir W. E. Welby, Bart. Here is j
a commodious and handsome inn.
CLIFTON.] — The two villages of North and South j
Clifton, six miles (the former E. by N. and the j
latter E.) from Tuxford, have but one church. ]
North Clifton formerly had a collegiate chantry for j
secular priests. Pegge observes that Clifton Hill j
has a red cliff near the Trent, for the space of a I
mile, which though it seems natural, yet produces i
innumerable pieces of urns of various colours. He |
adds, that there are many scalps and bones often
found, " and there lately tumbled out an ancient I
grave-stone without inscription, but with some iron j
work, wherewith the parts seem to have been united.
The inhabitants tell of some pieces of lead with
figures upon them, and discourse much of Clilton
Castle, which they suppose to have, been placed
upon the hill." — Here is a ferry over the Trent, but
the inhabitants are ' ferry free ;' and in lien, the
ferry man and his dog have each a dinner at the
vicarage at Christmas, of roast beef and plum pud-
ding, and the parson's dog is always turned out
whilst the ferryman's eats his share of the entertain-
ment. The ferryman also has a right, on that day,
to claim from the villagers a prime loaf of bread.
CLIPSTONE.] — This village lies 3| miles W. S.
"W. from Ollerton. ClipstouePark, the property of
the Duke of Portland, has a handsome lodge, hut
small and modern. This park, nearly eight miles
in circumference, was once famous for its fine oaks,
but most of these were cut down during the civil
wars. Much of it is now waste, but there is still
some old planting. According to a paper in the
Harleyan Collection, "the water of Man descendeth
northward from the town of Mansfield through the
forest and through Clipstone Park, and so by the
town of Clipstone where was an ancient house of
the princes of this realm, but before the Conquest
by the king of Northumberland." — King John fre-
quently resided here, whilst earl of Mortein, and
also after his accession to the crown, and several
deeds and grants are dated from this place, since
which it has retained the name of king John's palace.
— A parliament was also held here by Edward the
First, in the year 1290. It is uncertain, however,
•whether they met in the palace, or under an ancient
oak on the edge of the park, to which tradition
gives the name of the Parliament Oak.— The only
part remaining of the palace, which stands in a large
field, close to the village, seems to have been the
hall ; and several of its Gothic windows are still
entire. Its foundations have, formerly, been very
extensive.
CLUMBER PARK.]- About three miles E. from
Welbeck Abbey, is Clumber Park, the elegant seat
of Uie Duke of Newcastle. " Proceeding along the
Mansfield road," observes a contemporary writer,
" a picturesque scene presents itself cut through the
rocks, amidst overhanging woods, which add much
to the wilduess of the scenery ; but the country soon
opens into a wide and half uncultivated tract, soon
after which the roads divide, the turn to the left
leading to Ollerton, and, at a distance of two miles
from VVorksop, presenting an uncouth path, through
heavy sands, that leads to the park gate, a modern
erection of handsome stone work •with an old lodge.
On entering this, a splendid scene presents itself,
and following the track, the visitor finds himself
almost in a desert, amongst woods, rough lawns,
rising grounds, and small hills broken into steep
cliff's, crowned with planting and leathered even to
their bases. Amidst this sylvan scene, some marks
of rude cultivation accompany him for two miles,
when the mansion bursts at once upon his view ; but
; standing rather low, it does not at first make an
: impression equal to the ideas with which the mind
| is tilled from the approach. Yet its front of white
i stone, brought a distance of five miles from a quarry
' on the estate, has an air of magnificence ; and the
j whole mass ot building, including the very spacious
j court of offices to the leit, forms a fine contrast
i with the rising hill beyond it, and with the large
' piece of water occupying the extended bosom of a
winding vale, and terminated by an elegant bridge
of white stone in a most superb style of architec-
ture."— A few years ago, this park, now eleven
miles in compass, was a large extent of wild forest
land. Lowe also, in his Agricultural Survey, says
it contains about 4000 acres, yet not half a century
ago it was little more than a black heath full of rab-
bits, having a narrow river running through it, with
a small boggy close or two ; but now " besides a
magnificent mansion and noble lake and river, and ex
j tensive plantations, about 2000 acres are brought
I into a regular and excellent course of tillage, main-
; taining at the same time between three and four
thousand sheep, and all in his Grace's occupation."
This was written about 25 years ago, and great im-
provements both in planting and in cultivation, have
j since been made. — In this park are the remains of
1 two woods of venerable oljl oaks, one of which gives
name to the place, the other is Hardwick wood.
Lowe adds, that since they have been shut in from
cattle, the young trees are springing up surprisingly,
from the acorns. When Mr. Lowe wrote, the whole
of these plantations, within the park, amounted to
1848 acres.
The House, which is truly magnificent, consists
j of three fronts. In the centre of that which faces
| the lake, is a very light Ionic colonade. The En-
trance Hall, very lofty, and supported by pillars,
contains a large picture of Clumber, by Wheatley,
with the Duke's grandfather and some friends- set-
ting out on a shooting party ; this, however, is a
view of the old house, which has been considerably
altered and enlarged. This picture has portraits
of favourite dogs. Here also are two paintings of
sieges with reconnoitring parties ; an elegant mar-
ble medallion of Dolphin and Tritons ; a marble
table inlaid with landscapes • another tesselated ;
their frames highly wrought, and richly gilt. Some
antique
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
17
antique busts, originals, further embellish this apart-
ment.— A lofty stone staircase next presents itself;
with a very handsome iron railing, curiously wrought
and gilt in the shape of crowns With tassels hanging
down between them from cords twisted in knots and
festoons. " It is enriched with, the Kitcatclub and
Dr. Meausobre giving lectures, by Doddridge ; a
marble model of the Laocoon groupe, exquisitely
finished ; two elegant marble vases ; and a small
painting of Apollo and the Hours preceded by
Aurora. On the upper part of this staircase are
some well-preserved Roman sepulchral monuments."
— The Library is a large, square, lofty room, well
, lighted, and containing a splendid and well chosen
collection of English, foreign, and classical works.
The only painting it possesses, over the fireplace,
is a very fine copy, by Kent, from Raphael's School
of Athens. From this apartment there is a charming
prospect, in all directions, of the lake and pleasure
grounds. The small library contains a portrait, as
old as 1560, of a Countess of Lincoln, daughter of
the Earl of Kildare, in a rich antique costume ;
many family pictures ; and a handsome drawing of
a cross in the ancient chapel at Haughton park, near
Tuxferd. — The Duke's Study has an antique por-
trait of the first Earl of Clare of the present family's
ancestors ; a remarkable small original of Henry
the Eighth ; and several other valuable portraits.
— The Duke and Duchess's Bedroom was formerly
a study. It contains an immense vellum pedigree
of the family ; -two whole lengths of George the
second and queen Caroline ; and a very interesting
portrait of Mary Queen of Scots, done towards the
close of her life. — The Common Dining Room con-
tains an exquisite Madona and Child with St. John,
by Battoni ; two fine flower pieces by Van Noss ;
two by Teniers, one of cardplayers with the date
1661, the other a large landscape of a brickfield,
&e., and several other fine. old paintings. — The
Small Drawing Room has a large and beautiful pic-
ture by Teniers ; some female heads, in crayons, by
Hoare ; a fine piece of game, by Rubens; the por-
trait of an Orator, by Rembrandt ; the famous piece
by Corregio, of Sigismunda weeping over the heart
of Tancred ; Artemisia with the cup containing her
husband's ashes, by (Junto ; the Baptism of Christ,
by Battisti Franco ; two landscapes by Poussin ;
four views of Venice by Canaletti ; two heads ex-
pressing Smell and Taste by Rubens ; Magdalen,
with a crucifix and scull, by Trovissani ; country
church, by Rubens ; two attacks of convoys, by
Van der Meulcti ; a large landscape by Poussin ;
a Flemish village by Teniers ; and the inside of an
ancient building, in a superb style of architecture,
illuminated by torch and girandole lights ; the artist
unknown- — The Great Drawing Room has a capital
portrait of Rembrandt, by himself; a Lion and Boar,
l>y Snyders ; the Discovery of Cyrus, by Castigli-
one ; Rinaldo and Armida, by Vandyke ; St. George
and the Dragon, by Rubens ; an extraordinary pro-
duction of old Franks, being a Cabinet of Paintings
. IV. — NO. 112.
in which Jn's own portrait is introduced ; Diaiia
and her nymphs hunting, by Rubens ; Sacrifice to
Pan, by And. Sacchi ; and a virgin encircled by
angels, by Michael A ngclo. — The Breakfast Room
has a virgin and child, by Albert Durer ; aland-
scape continuing the four seasons, by Van Beulen
and Breughel ; several sea pieces, and two land-
scapes, by Rnysdael ; two beggar boys, by Gains-
borough ; Lord Torrington ; Cardinal Imperialti,
by Doitiinichino ; a miniature of Lord Chief Justice
Mansfield, by Myers ; two small pieces of wild
scenes with shepherds, by Salvator Rosa ; an ele-
gant flower piece by Van Huysum ; Oliver Crom-
well ; a Wedding Feast, by Vandyke, &c. — The
State Dining Room is a most magnificent apart-
ment, sixty feet in length, thirty-four in breadth,
and thirty in height. The ceiling and pannels are
extremely rich in stucco and gilding ; the lustres
are of the finest cut glass ; and the marble chimney
piece and steel grate, are, perhaps, the most beau-
tiful in the kingdom. The other ornaments of this
apartment, few in number, but high in value, are
estimated at 25, OOO/. sterling, and only seven dis-
tinct pieces. Four of these are Market pieces by
the joint pencils of Snyders and Long John ; con-
sisting of a display of flesh, fish, and fowl, fruit and
vegetables. Over the chimney-piece is a large paint-
ing of dead game by Wenix ; and there are two
landscapes by Zuccarellia. — The chapel is a very
pleasing apartment; admirably fitted for its pur-
pose, and having a sombre effl-ct from the four win-
dows of stained glass, in which the family arms are
handsomely emblazoned. Here are a ' Dead Christ,'
and a ' Holy Family,' copies after Raphael. The
Dressing-room, up stairs, contains some fine fruit
pieces ; an inlaid table of curious workmanship ;
seven very fine paintings in water colours, from
Herculaneum, &c. — The furniture and decorations
of the bed-rooms are superb ; the bods are fitted up
in imitation of tents and pavilions, with their cur-
tains picturesquely arranged. Immense mirrors, both
hanging and portable, highly finished ceilings, Tur-
key carpets, inlaid cabinets, and a number of chro-
nometers, mounted in masses of sculpture, after the
most classical designs, also embellish these apart-
ments.
CODDINGTON.] — At this village, 2| miles E. by
N. from Newark, is a handsome seat of S. C. Col-
clough, Esq. In this neighbourhood is Brough,
considered, by Stukely, as the undoubted Croco-
lana of the Romans ; but, of that ancient city, there
are now no vestiges.
COLLINGHAM.] — At South Collingham, 5£ miles
N.N.E. from Newark, is a high barrow or tumulus,
called Potter's Hill ; traditionally said to have been
a Roman pottery. It is more likely, however, to
have been originally a Roman, or perhaps a Bri-
tish military station, as it stands upon an eminence
commanding a |H-ospcct of the road on both sides.
North Collingham, a larger village, 5£ miles
N.N.E. from Newark, has some good houses. The
* church
18
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
church, which is of Saxon origin, has a good tower,
with four bells.
COLSTON.] — At Colston Basset, ten miles S. E.
by E. from Nottingham, is an elegant mansion, the
residence of W. Milnes, Esq. Tradition states,
that, whilst this place was suffering under the
plague, in 1604, the inhabitants of Nottingham and
Bingtiii.ni refused to supply them with provisions,
and totally cut off the communication. The church
has a peal of five very deep-toned bells.
COLWICK.] — The church of this village, 2{ miles
E. from Nottingham, contains some ancient monu-
ments of the Byron family ; also for that of Mus-
ters, the present possessors of the manor, by one of
which, on the north side of the chancel, it appears,
that the chancel was rebuilt, and the church re-
paired, by Sir John Musters, Knt. in 1684. — Col-
wick Hall, the seat of the Musters family, though
occupying a flat situation, is backed with some fine
wood-clothed hills ; and, having the Trent in front,
•with extensive plains on its southern bank, has an
impressive appearance. The park, though small, is
well stocked with deer, and comprehends much de-
lightful scenery. The pleasure-grounds are pro-
portionately more extensive than the park, and ex-
hibit a good specimen of modern improvement en-
grafted on the ancient model. The house, design-
ed by Mr. Carr, of York, and executed under the
care of Mr. Stretton, consists of an elegantly ele-
vated centre, crowned with a pediment resting on
four well-proportioned Ionic pillars, and united by
two wings of one lofty story with an entablature
supported by square pilasters with plain capitals,
and lightened by a handsome balustraded parapet.
COSSALL.] — At the village of Cossall, six miles
W.N.W. from Nottingham, is an hospital, founded
by the Willoughby family, for four men, who re-
ceive coals, clothing, and 2s. per week. Near it, is
a small chapel ; in opening the vault of which, for
the interment of Miss Willoughby, about the year
1780, the workmen were surprised by a luminous
appearance at the farther end, which disappeared on
the approach of a candle. On examination, it was
found to proceed from the animal phosphorus of a
* This gentleman, after receiving a preparatory education,
was sent to St. Jolm's college, Cambridge, where he took his
bachelor's degree in medicine, in 1755 ; and, in his thesis, on
that occasion, maintained, that the movements of the heart and
arteries are immediately produced by the stimulus of the blood.
In the Cambridge collection of verses, on the death of Frederic,
Prince of Wales, in 1751, is a poem by him, which does not
rise above mediocrity. From Cambridge he removed to Edin-
hurglv where he took his doctor's degree ; after which, he prac-
tised at Litchfield, with reputation ; and, in 1757, married Miss
Howard, of that city, who died in 1770, leaving three sons.
His second wife was the widow of Colonel Pole, who brought
him a good fortune; on which, he removed to Derby, in 1781,
where lie passed the remainder of his lite. He died" suddenly
in 1802. Dr. Darwin's literary fame rests^ upon the Botanic
Garden, with philosophical notes, in two part-; i 1. The economy
of vegetation ; 2. The loves of the plants, two vols. Svo. ; Zoo-
notnia, or the Laws of Organic Lite, Svo. ; Phytologia, or the
Philosophy of Agriculture and Gardening, iu. one vol. 4to.
human skull, covered with a greenish mould, in a
high state of putrescence. — At Marsh, about a mile
distant, formerly, was a Benedictine cell, of the
chapel of St. Thomas.
EASTWOOD.]— At Eastwood, nine miles W.N.W.
from Nottingham, are very extensive coal-mines,
from 20 to 156 feet in depth. They furnish many
antediluvian remains. Tradition relates a wonder-
ful story of a farmer being swallowed up alive in
the parlour of the village ale-house, whilst drinking
his ale, to the great consternation of his host, who
thus discovered, that his house had been built on an
exhausted coal-pit. The church is a modern edi-
fice, of brick.
EDW ALTON.] — In the chapel-yard of Edwalton,
3f miles S. S. E. from Nottingham, is the grave-
stone of an old woman, of whom it is recorded, that
" She drank good ale, good punch, and good wine ;
And liv'd to the age of ninety-nine."
EDWINSTOWE.] — In the church-yard of Edwin-
stowe, two miles W. from Ollerton, is another quaint
epitaph, as follows ; —
" Robert Rockley body here is laid ; /
Its for him these lines are made.
That we all here may remember
He died the 19th of' September
Robert Rockley son he be
His aee is near to 23.
1742."
ELSTON.] — At Elston, or Elveston, 4£ miles S.W.
by S. from Newark, is the ancient mansion of the
Darwin family, ancestors of the celebrated Erasmus
Darwin, M. D. who was born here, on the 12th of
December, 1731.*— In the 30th volume of the Phi-
losophical transactions, page 96, is a curious paper,
by Dr. Stukely, describing a stone found in the
grounds at the rectory here, with a skeleton im-
pressed in it, of an enormous size, thought to have
belonged to a crocodile, or porpoise. The stone
was supposed to have been brought from the neigh-
bouring quarries of Fulbeck, through the whole
of which range of hills, there are immense strata
j
In these works, the poet, botanist, and philosopher, appear to
advantage; though, in many respects, the author sacrifices too
much to imagination, and he evinces a contempt for religion.
Besides these works, he was the author of Papers in the Philo-
sophical Transactions, and a tract on Female Education, 4to.
He had also a share in the formation of the System of Vege-
tables of Linnaeus, published in the name of the Botanical So-
ciety, at Litchfield.
Charles Darwin, the son of Dr. Erasmus Darwin, was born
at Litchfield, in 1758. After receiving a preparatory educa-
tion, he went to Christ-church college, Oxford, from whence
he removed to Edinburgh, where he applied to the study of
medicine, and obtained the first prize medal offered by the
Esculapian Society for the best essay on the means of distin-
guishing pus from mucus. He died in 1778. He left behind
him, an Account of the retrograde Motions of the absorbent
vessels of animal Bodies in some diseases, in Latin ; a transla-
tion of which was published by his father.
of
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
of stone, abounding in shells, and other submarine
fossils.
EPERSTON.] — This village, supposed to have been
a small^ Roman station, is 4| miles 8.W. from South-
well. The church lias a tiled roof, and a spire. In
the church- yard, are some ancient monumental
stones, overgrown with moss.
EVERTON.]— The parish of Everton, three miles
b.H. by E. from Bawtry, is also thought to have
been a Roman station ; various specimens ot Ro-
man antiquities having been discovered within its
limits.
EYKERING.]— This village, 3| miles S. S. E. from
Jllertou, is nearly a mile in length. The rectory is
an elegant building, with handsome plantations.
This is supposed to have been the residence of that
famdy, from which sprung Will Scarlet, the friend
of Robin Hood; for, about that period, Robert
Sscarlet, and Beatrix, his wife, gave lands here to
the monks of Rufford abbey, for which the monks,
in return, gave him a she-goat, and to his wife a
cow !
FiNNiNGLEY.]— The village of Finningley, four
miles N. by E. from Bawtry, is situated on a smaH
tongue of this county, which runs between York
and Lincolnshire. It has a small charity-school for
the clothing and education of eight boys. The
lordship was anciently the property ot the Frobi-
shers, ancestors of Martin Frobisner, in the rei°-n
of Elizabeth.*
^ FISKERTON.]— Fiskerton, three miles S.E. from
Southwell, has a ferry over the Trent, to Stoke
with several wharfs and warehouses on the banks of
the river. It is a place of rising consequence.
*LINTHAM.]— Flintham church, 6{ miles S. W
from Newark, contains a cross-les>gpd figure of the
14th century, in a very mutilated state. A former
incumbent of this parish saved upwards of 1500/.
by the most penurious and beggarly conduct He
once went to Newark, with a letter, for two-pence ;
and he has been known to assist the thatchers to
obtain a penny !-Flintham Hall, a handsome mo-
dern buildmg, occupying the site of an ancient
mans.on of the Husseys, s.nce the reign of Edward
the Third, .s the seat of Colonel Thoroton, the to-
pographer.
GoNALSTON.]-At this village, one mile S. from
Ihurgarton, an hospital, now called Gonalston-
Sp.ttal, was erected by William Keriz, in the rei<rn
ot Henry the Third. Here is a charity-school for
six boys.
GOTHAM.]— This village, so renowned in story,
"i WM *?" °Ut ''y Quee" Eliz^h with
in hopes of discovering a north-went passage
three^in T
three ship:,, m , or-we passage
udia. Having proceeded as far as Labrador, he was stopped
by the approach of winter ; but returned with a quantity of gold
niarcas, e> or pyrites aureas. which tempted the me.nbm of the
t,,'V| °7-r Pr0"!0titlS Discovery," to send out three other
hip., m 1577, under 1- robisher's command. In this second
voyage,.Re dlscovered the Strails, now known by his name but
wasagam stopped by the ice; and. having taken on board mo e
lies seven miles S.S.W. from Nottingham. Drunken
Barnaby, in one of his journeys to the north, says :
" Thence to Gotham, where sure am I,
Though not all fools, I saw many ;
Here a she-gull found I prancing,
And in moonshine nimbly dancing;
There another wanton madling,
Who, her hog was set a sadling."
Warton, speaking of the « idle pranks of the men
ot Gotham," observes, « that such pranks bore a
reference to some customary law tenures belongin"-
to that place, or its neighbourhood, now grown ob-
solete." Hearne also says, " nor is there more
reason to esteem the merry tales of the madmen of
Gotham, (which was much valued and cried up in
Henry the Eighth's time, though now sold at baU
lad singers' stalls,) as altogether a romance : a cer-
tain skilful person having told me, more than once,
that they formerly held lands there, by such sports
and customs as are touched upon in this book1'
fuller says, that the proverb «" as wise as a man
or Gotham, passeth publicly for the periphrasis of
a tool ; and an hundred fopperies are forged and
lathered on the townsfolk of Gotham." It has been
observed, however, that a custom prevailed, even,
amongst the earliest nations, of stigmatising some
particular spot, as remarkable for stupidity Thus
amongst the Asiatics, Phrygia was considered as^
the Gotham of that day ; Abdera, amongst the
1 hracians ; and Beeotia among the Greeks. It is
evident, that considerable publicity had been given
to the many ridiculous fables, traditionally told, of
the men ot Gotham ; particularly of their havin«-
often heard the cuckoo, but never having seen her
and therefore hedged in a bush whence her note
seemed to proceed, that, being confined within so
small a compass, they might at length catch her,
and satisfy their curiosity. What gave rise to the
story is not now remembered , but there is, at a place
called Courthdl, in this parish, a bush still desi"--
nated by the name of the " Cuckoo bush." The
editor of the Magna Britannia states, that, in the
Dom(,sday Survey, it is called Gotham, from goats :
which being much cherished hero, it was hence
called Goafs-home, or dwelling. It is, even now
frequently pronounced Goteham. — The village
stamls upon a gentle eminence, whose base is <-yp-
sinn or alabaster. The church, which is antique
has a nave and two side aisles ; but the spire is ra-
ther of a heavy nppearance. The village consists
only of a few cottages, not remarkable for neat-
i
of this substance, then supposed to be gold, he returned to Ene-
lam. Soon atter this, Queen ElizabeU, determined to form a
set ilement in these countries ; and a tlea of fifteen small vessels
with men and necessaries, was aaain sent out under FrolmherV
command : but he could not get so far as he had none in his
preceding voyages ; so that they BOOH after returned, and Fro-
bWler seems to. have given up all further attempts at, disco-
ness.
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
ness. — Court-bill, the scene ef (he cuckoo-bush
story, is a very short distance from the village.
The present inhabitant*, however, turn this hill to
better purpose than their ancestors did, as they work
on the side of it two very fine quarries ; one of gyp-
sum, iu large blocks ; the other of a reddish stone,
sufficiently hard for building, but calcareous, and
fit either to burn into lime, or to polish as marble.
The book alluded to by Hearne, is mentioned by
Walpole, who says, "' the merry tales of the mad
men of Gotham, a book extremely admired, and
often reprinted in that age, was written by Lucas
de Ilcere, a Flemish painter, who resided in Eng-
land, in the time of Elizabeth." Wood, however,
is of a different opinion, and tells us, that the Tales
were written by one Andrew Horde, or Andreas
Perforatus as he calls himself. This facetious gentle-
jman was a kind of travelling quack ; and it is sup-
posed that the name and occupation of a Merry
Andrew, took its rise from him. There is an old
black letter edition of the work, at the Bodlean library
at Oxford, called " Certaine merry tales of the mad
men of Gotham, compiled in the reign of Henry the
Eighth, by Dr. Andrew Borde, an eminent physician
of that period.*"— The people [of Gotham have a
tradition that their folly was like Edgar's madness,
put on for the occasion ; and Throsby relates, that,
according to this tradition, " the ' cuckoo bush' was
merely planted to commemorato a trick which the
inhabitants of Gotham put upon King John, who,
passing through this place towards Nottingham,
and intending to go over the meadows, was pre-
vented by the villagers, who supposed that the
ground over which a king passed must ever after
remain a public road. The king, incensed at their
proceedings, sent from his court, soon after, some
of his officers, to enquire of them the reason of their
incivility and ill-treatment, in order that he might
duly apportion the punishment by way of fine, &c.
The Gothamites, hearing of their approach, thought
of an expedient to turn away his displeasure ; for
•when the messenger arrived, they found some of the
inhabitants endeavouring to drown an eel in a pool
* One of these stories is related nearly in the following
words: — There were two men of Gotham, and the one of them
was going to the market of Nottingham to buy sheepe, and
«he other came from the market ; and both met together upon
Nottingham bridge. Well met, said the one to the oilier.
Whether bee- ye going? said he that came from Nottingham.
Marry, said he that was going thither, 1 goe to that market to
buy sheepe. Buy sheepe! said the other, and which way wilt
thou bring them home? Marry, said the other, 1 will bring
them over this bridge. By Hobin Hood, said he that came
from Nottingham, but thou shall not. By maid Marian, said
he that was going thitherward, but I will. Thou thalt not, said
the one. I will, said the other. Terhere! said the one. Shue
there! said the other. Then they beat their staves against the
.ground, one against the other, as there had been a hundred
sheep betwixt them. Hold in, said the one. Beware the
leaping over the bridge of my sheepe, said the other. They
shall not conif this w.iy, said the one. But they shall, said
the other. Thru, said the other, and if that thou make much to
do, I will put my linger in thy mouth. A— thou wilt, said the
of water ; some employed in dragging carts upon ft
large barn, in order to shade the wood from the
sun ; others were tumbling their cheeses down hill,
that they might find their way to Nottingham market
for sale ; and some employed in hedging in a cuckoo,
which had perched upon an old bush that stood where
the present one now stands ; in short they were all
occupied in some foolish way or other, which con-
vinced the king's officers that they were a village of
fools !"
GREYSLEY.] — Greysley, the largest parish in the
county, and said to be twenty miles in circumfer-
ence, is 7^ miles N. W. from Nottingham. It has
a large and handsome church, with a lofty embattled
tower, in which are four good bells. Of the ancient
manor-house, or Castle, of the Cantilupes, some
fragments of the walls are all that now remain.
" Within the park of Griesley, which is north from
the castle, was built an abbey in the time of Edward
the Third, by the lord Cantilupe, called Beauvale,
in Latin bella vat/is." Tanner tells us, that this was
a Carthusian priory, of a prior and twelve monks.
They seem to have been jolly fellows, as John of
Gaunt granted them a ton of wine annually, as long
as he lived. They were also indebted to Edward
Baliol, the Scottish monarch, for a grant of sufficient
timber for its first erection. Of this place nothing
now remains except some tottering walls, applied
to form the common offices of a farm yard. — Kiiu-
berley village is within this parish. Its situation,
on a rising ground, intermingled with trees and
hedges, is almost romantic. It had a chapel, now
in ruins.
GRINGLEY.] — Gringley-on-the-Hill, six mile?
E. S. E. from Bawtry, takes its name from its lofty
situation on a hill overlooking the wide extent of
Misson Car. Here are several swelling mounds,
which, were it not for their size, might be supposed
artificial from their very bases : on them, however,
have been thrown up three others in ancient times ;
evidently the remains of Saxon or Danish works ;
and the part still called " the Parks," is tradition-
ally recorded to have belonged to a Saxon nobleman.
other. And as they were at their contention, another man of
Gotham came by from the market, with a sacke of nieale upon
hit horse, and seeing and hearing his neighbours in strife about
sheepe, and none betwixt them, said, ah ! fooles, will you
never learn wit? Help me, said he that had the mcale, and
lay my sack upon my shoulder. They did soe ; and he went
to one side of the bridge, and unloosed the mouth of thesacke,
and did shake out all his meale into the river. Now neigh-
bours, said he, how much meale is there in my sacke ? Marry !
(here is none at all, said they. Now by my faith, said he, even
as much wit is in your heads to strive for that thing you have
not. Which was'the wisest of all these three persons, judge
you ?" — There is also a tale of two brothers, one of whom
wished for as many o\en as he saw stars, whilst the other wishing
for a pasture as wideasthe firmament, they quarrelled and -killed
each other, about the pasturage ol the oxen; and another of a
good woman, who, when lelt at home by her husband, with
directions to wet the meal before she gave it to the pigs, threw
the meal into the well, and the pigs after it.
GROTE.
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
21
GROVE.] — The little village of Grove, 2{ miles
E. S. E. from East Retford, occupies the site of a
Roman exploratory station. — Grove Hall, the seat
of A. H. Eyre, Esq. has a commanding appearance
from the north road, as it is situated on an eminence
in the middle of a well-wooded park. The church
contains some curious ancient monumental stones
of the Herveys, formerly lords of the manor.
HALLOUGHTON.] — Halloughton, or Hawton, If
mile S. S. W. from Southwell, was remarkable for
an ancient mansion-house upon the prehendal estate.
Throsby records that during the repair, in taking up
the kitchen floor, there was found a large stone,
about the size of a mill-?tone, under which was a
large key. Some time after, this place was more
minutely examined, and it proved to be the mouth
of a cavity, enclosed by a circular wall, and traced
for some distance by the workmen until their further
search was interrupted by water. There was a tra-
dition in Southwell of a subterraneous passage from
this place to Thurgarton ; and, that in taking down
a stack of chimnies in this house, there was found
in the middle of them a large recess, in which were
many human skeletons quite entire and uncovered
with earth, chiefly those of children.
HARDBY. — Hardby, or Herdeby, a little village
on the verge of the county, is remarkable as the
place where Queen Eleanor lay ill and died on the
29th of November, in the 19th of Edward I. The
King founded a chantry here, which was afterwards
removed to Lincoln, where the Queen's bowels were
interred. The first cross, to the memory of Eleanor,
was erected here, but it has long been destroyed.
HEADON.] — At Headon, 4 miles S.E. from E. from
Retford, was an old mansion of the Eyre family,
-which came to them by a marriage with the heiress
of Wastney. The house, built in the last century,
has been some years pulled down, but the ancient
park remains. Many monuments of the Wastneys
remain in the church. The impropriate rector of
this parish must be a clergyman, although he has
no cure of souls within it, that duty being performed
by the vicar.
HOLME.] — In the pleasant little village of Holme
Pierpoint, five miles E. by S. from Nottingham, is
Holme Pierpoint House, a large and ancient build-
Ing, though much of it at times has been pulled
down. It stands close to the church. Cased, in
imitation of stone, it forms a handsome specimen of
the Gothic of the later ages.— The church is rich in
mural monuments, in altar tombs, and in ancient
armorial brasses. Its form is Gothic, but in the
style of the time of Henry the Seventh. — The family
vault of the late dukes of Kingston, and of the pre-
sent Pierpoint family, is in the north side of the choir,
with a lofty monument over it, supported by Corin-
thian pillars, and gloomily ornamented with death's
heads in wreaths, intermixed with fruit and foliage.
Its inscription is unusual. " Here lyeth the Illus-
trious Princess Gertrude, Countess of Kingston,
daughter to Henry Talbot, Esq. son to George late
VOL. iv. — NO. 142.
Earl of Shrewsbury. She was married to the most
Noble and Excellent Lord Robert, Earl of Kings-
ton, &c." A fine altar tomb to the memory of Sir
Henry Pierpoint, knt. in 1615, is on the south side ;
he is in armour, and in the usual attitude of prayer.
On the sides of (he toiub are a son, four daughters,
and an infant in swaddling clothes ; and over it a
highly ornamented tablet containing the inscription.
Near it is another who, by his habit of a pilgrim,
seems fo have been to the Holy Land ; he has angels
playing round his head. Here too was buried young
Oldham, a poet ofconsiderable merit, and patronized
by William Earl of Kingston, who wrote the very
elegant inscription on his tomb.
The village of Holme, four miles N. by E: from
Newark, belonged, in the 17th century, to Sir
Thomas Barton, Knt. whose fortune having been,
acquired by the woollen manufacture, he placed (he
following couplet in the windows of his mansion :
" I thank God, and ever shall;
" It was the slieep that paid for all."
Holme chapel has some monuments of the family
in the chancel. On the north side stands a very
large and curious altar tomb, with two recumbent
figures of a man and woman, awd below a very
striking figure of an emaciated youth. Over the
south porch is a chamber, called "Nan Scott's."
It is said, that the last great plague was particularly
fatal to this village ; at which time this Ann Scott
retired to the room here mentioned, with a sufficient
quantity of food to last her several weeks. Having-
remained unnoticed until her provisions were ex-
pended, she ventured to return to the village, which
she found entirely deserted, only one person, besides
herself, of its former inhabitants, being alive.
Shocked by the horrors of the scene, she is said to
have returned to this chamber, where she took up
her residence again for the remainder of a life of
many years' duration.
HAUGHTON.]— Haughton, or Houghton, 3| miles
W. N. W. from Tuxford, formerly the seat of the
Stanhopes, and afterwards of the Newcastle family
(Holies) is now in total decay. The house is entirely
gone, and nothing remains but the chapel, now in
I ruins ; which being built in the Gothic style, and em-
bosomed in trees, forms a pleasing though sombre
object in the scenery. Here is the ancient burial
vault of the Holleses. — A paper mill gives employ-
ment to the inhabitants of a few cottagers. This
place, however, was once of sufficient consequence
to give the title of Baron to the Earls of Clare, of
the name of Holies. The Stanhopes sold this place
to Sir William Holies, an eminent London merchant,
and lord-mayor in the reign of Henry the Eighth.
His hospitality was great ; arid he always began his
Christmas holidays at Hallow tide, and continued
them to Candlemas, during which period any man
was permitted to stay three days without being asked
who he was, or whence he came. He never sat
down to dinner- till one o'clock ; and being asked
F why
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
•why he always dined so late, his answer was, that
for' ought he knew, there might be a friend come
twenty miles to dine with him, and he would be loth
he should lose his labour.*
HOVERINGHAM.] — Hoveringham church, five miles
S. from Southwell, has an ancient Saxon porch,
with a very curious has relief of the patron saint,
Michael the Archangel, and the Dragon. The in-
habitants are chiefly employed in agriculture.
KELHAM, AVERHAM, BEESTHORPE, &c.] — Kelham,
two miles, N. W. from Newark, is a small but com-
fortable village. The church has a handsome tower,
and aridity wrought monument oftlie last Lord Lex-
iiKon and his lady, of fine statuary marble, the
figures standing back to back. His lordship holds
a coronet in one hand, and a book in the other, which
rests upon a skull, whilst the lady has a ring, the
emblem of matrimonial happiness in this world, and
eternal duration in the next. The inscription states
the family of Sutton tu have flourished here from
time immemorial, and their claim to the title to he
as old as 1251, at which time Rowland Sutton mar-
ried Alice, sister and coheir to Robert Lord Lexing-
ton.— Kelham house, or hall, a plain but elegant
building of brick, with stone corners and window-
frames, three stories high, in a handsome lawn on
the banks of the Trent, consists of a large centre
and two wings. 'I he lawn and grounds, though not
very extensive, are extremely pleasing and kept in
good order ; and the view of Newark, across the
river, forms a fine prospect. Close to the grounds
i» a very curious wooden bridge over the Trent.
Averham, or Aram, another seat of the Sutton
family, has been dismantled and disparked. The
church has some curious allegorical memorials of
South and Ton, &c. with many monuments, parti-
cularly of the first lord, who " very much increased
his patronage, ever kept a plentiful sober house, and
was much out of purse for Charles the first, who
created him a peer." A monument of Sir William
Sutton's, is inscribed as follows : —
" Eight of cacl) sex ; of each an equal part,
Ushered lo heaven their father, and the other
Remained behind him to attend their mother."
* The first Earl of Clare of the Holies family was born at
Houghton in 1564, and improved so much undera private tutor
that at thirteen years of age he was fit to be sent to Trinity
College, Cambridge. After a due course of study he seems
to have formed some idea of engaging in the legal profession ;
but having been introduced at court, and appointed one ol the
gentlemen of the Band of Pensioners, he afterwards served in
the Flemish wars, and against the Turks. On the attempt of
the Spanish Armada against the liberties of his native country,
he returned and distinguished himself in its subsequent defeat.
He afterwards did considerable service in tin: suppression of the
different rebellions in Ireland. After the accession of James,
ne became obnoxious to the court, and was imprisoned; but
jfter a short confinement he was released, and immediately
called to the House of Peers, for which, however, he K said to
have paid 10.000J. to Buckingham the favourite. His earldom
of Clare was bestowed upon him in I6i?4, for which, it is said,
lie payed down 5000A more. ID the reign of Charles, he was
At Beesthorpe, in this vicinity, is a good seat be-
longing to Thomas Bristow, Esq. The hall is a
spacious old mansion, with pointed roofs, an an-
cient tower, and extensive offices. There were se-
veral other ancient seats here, Deanshall, Earlston,
&c.
KINGSTON.] — At Kingston-upon-Soar, 9$ miles
S.W. by S. from Nottingham, was the house of An-
thony Babyngton, attainted in the reign of Eliza-
beth-; but, of this building, nothing remains, but
.the outward wall of the court and gardens, with an
ancient stone gateway, all in a state of dilapidation.
The church, which is very small, with a curious
bell turret, of the simplest form, consists of two
aisles, of the Gothic order, with some small Gothic
arches in the chancel, of great antiquity : but its
date is carried even further back by the Saxon door-
way, in the western porch ; and, it is evident, that
the building has once been much larger. The arch
leading from the nave is very curious ; but the Ba-
hyngton monument, inside the chance), is much
more so. It consists of a canopy, formed on a se-
micircular arch, supported by grotesque pillars, and
adorned with upwards of '200 heads of a ' babe' in a
' ton,' the common monumental pun on the family
name, which the architect has thought sufficient to
designate the owner without any inscription. On
the tomb, under this arch, once lay a figure, but
that has long since been removed, and the tomb
itself is crumbling to dust, like its tenant. The
country round Kingston, is highly cultivated ; and
the views into Leicestershire, on descending from
the hills of the wolds, are extensive, rich, and beau-
tiful.
KIRKBY.] — The large village of Kirkby in Ash-
field, five miles S. VV. from Mansfield, has a hand-
some church, with some painted .glass. Tradition
states, that Sir Charles Cavendish, lord of the manor,
began to build a large house here, where, being1
assaulted by Sir John Stanhope and his man, as he
was viewing the work, he resolved to leave off the
building, because some blood had been spilt in the
quarrel, which was then very hot between tlie two
families.
KlHKLINGTON, AND HEXQRAVE.] — III the church.
one of his most violent enemies; yet his heart was impressed
with loyalty. He died in 1637, at the age of 73. His second
son, Denzil Holies, also born at Houghton, was in the list of
members whom Charles accused of high treason. He was born
in 1597, and in 1627 came into the House of Commons; in
which year he began to display his activity, being one of the
persons who actually by force held the speaker in the chair,
until the well known resolutions were read. The imperious
conduct of Charles towards him in 1641 gave him a decided
iurn against the court party ; \et he, though afterwards a Par-
liamentarian, was not only a steady opposer of the priflciples
which took away his monarch's life, but was even obnoxious to
Cromwell himself, for his resistance to his unconstitutional usur-
pations. He afterwards joined with ardour in the proceedings
which brought about the Restoration; and so convinced was
[he second Charles of his loyalty and integrity, that he called
liim to the upper house, by the title of Lord Holies.
of
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
23
of Kirklington, to the S. of Eykering, are some
remains of old monumental stones and crosses. -Near
the village stands Kirklington Hall, the seat of Mrs.
Whetham, a large modern building of three stories,
with two projecting octagonal wings, the whole sur-
rounded with battlements. It has a handsome lawn,
with an extensive piece of water in front, finely diver-
sified hy rising swells.
Hexgrave, near Kirklington, had anciently a park.
Here are vestiges of a Roman encampment. In
some spots, the' ditch and vallum may still be traced,
but the intermediate lines have been destroyed by
the plough. About three miles south-west from this,
at Combe's farm, to the left of the Mansfield road,
is another encampment, commanding an extensive
view over the forest.
LANGAR.] — Langar, the seat of the late Lord
Howe, is 11 miles E. S. E. from Nottingham. Part
of the old house still remains at the back of the new
part of the edifice. It stands close to the church,
with which it has a communication. The modern
front has a very handsome portico and pediment,
with six lofty Ionic pillars the height of the house,
which is three stories. The gardens have been much
neglected. — Langar church consists of a nave and
two side aisles ; with a tower, and a ring of five
bells. It contains many monuments of the Lords
Scroope, &c. — The parsonage house is excellent of
its kind ; and has a very good observatory, erected,
in 1797, by the Rev. Mr. Gregory, the rector.
LEAKE.] — East Leake and West Leake, about 11
miles S. by W. from Nottingham, are thought to
derive their name from the Saxon verb "Lecciau,"
to water, or moisten, as they are both crossed by a
rivulet. The church of East Leake is a respectable
specimen ot the later Gothic, in good preservation,
and having a handsome turret and spire, with four
bells. In the interior, are some ancient benches with
curious carvings, which seem to have belonged to
an older building. Here is a charity school founded
and endowed by John Blay, citizen of London, but
a native of Leake. He died in 1731, bequeathing
10/. to every farmer, and 51. to every cottager in the
village. — West Lenke has some slight remains of an
ancient manor-house. The church is low, and old.
In a niche in the north wall are two very ancient
monuments, each containing a recumbent figure ;
there is also one of a lady in the chancel.
LKNTON.] — Lenton, one mile W. S. W. from Not-
tingham, was. once famous for its abbey, founded in
honour of the Holy Trinity by William Peverel,
bastard son of William the Conqueror. Here was
also an hospital of St. Anthony within the church-
yard or court of the ancient priory, for the support
and cure of such as were troubled with the disorder
which took its name from that saint. Here was
likewise a small establishment of White Carmelite
friars. — Before the Conquest, this was merely a
hamlet to Arnold, and took its name from its situa-
tion on the bank of the Lene ; but on the grant of
it to Peverel, it became independent ; and in the
reign of Henry the First, had a grant from that
monarch of a ' f«ir,' to continue eight days at the
feast of St. Martin, in which it was ordered that no
man should buy or sell at Nottingham during its
continuance, and that all persons coming from, or
going to it, should be free from all processes ot law.
At the Dissolution, the abbey demesne was granted
to Sir William Hicks ; it afterwards came to the
first Duke of Richmond, subsequently to the Gre-
gories, the present possessors. — The village, which
consists of a long street, is extremely neat and rural,
and has several gentlemen's seats on the banks of
the river. — The church is very small, and seems to
have been built on part of the ancient hospital, after
the destruction of the priory. It bears, however, high
marks of antiquity in many parts. Near the reading
desk is an ancient monumental stone, on which a
cross and chalice are carved with the date of 1333.
This, however, may have been removed from the
original church. The font is very large, two feet
six inches in height, and remarkable from being in
the form of a parallelogram, as though intended for
complete immersion. On the sides are some curious
sculptures of the crucifixion, &c. with niches filled
with angels. — All vestiges of the abbey and abbey
church, had long been destroyed, nor was its site
even known until some years ago, when a curious
brass plate of the crucifixion was found, and sup-
posed to have been left by Cardinnl Wolsey, oil
his way to Leicester abbey, where he closed his dis-
quiet life. It contains a number of figures, not badly
executed.- It was found adhering to a wooden cru-
cifix, above the transverse piece- ; and this discovery
led to the supposition, that the spot where it was
found must have been the site of the ancient priory.
Nothing further occurred, however, until a few years
ago ; when Mr. Stretton, whose house is close by
the ancient church yard, and partly situated on the
ancient ruin, began a course of examination, in which
he discovered several bases oi the very elegant Saxon
pillars of the conventual church. He .was also ena-
bled to trace out the ground plan of nearly the whole
building.
Wiiat i-s now called ' Lenton Priory' is a hand-
some dwelling-bouse of Mr. Stretton'sown erection,
in the form of an ancient priory, as far as the pro-
portions would admit. There are several antique
sepulchral memorials in the garden deserving of
notice, particularly a stone coffin, with a crosier on
the lid, and a very curious Saxon font, supposed to
have belonged to the ancient priory. The exterior of
the house presents some good specimens of the orna-
mental Gothic, in the doors and windows. It con-
tains a collection of curiosities, most of which are
illustrative of Lenton, and its neighbourhood. Here
is also a fine portrait of the famous Nell Gwynne.
LEVERTON.] — The church of South Leverton,
an agreeable village, six miles E. from East Ret-
ford, commands a most extensive prospect over
Lincolnshire, embracing Lincoln Minster, 20 miles
distant. — In the adjoining parish of North Leverton
some
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
some peculiarities have been adopted in the mode of
marking out the common lands.
LEXINGTON.] — The village of Lex ington, or Lax
ton 2| miles S. S. W. froiu Terxford, once gave th
title of Baron to the Sutton of Kelham. Formerly
the church contained many ancient monuments, with i
armorial paintings, carvings, &c.
LINDBY.] — We mention this village, which lies
7| miles N. N. W. from Nottingham, for the pur-
pose of reminding (he poetical reader, that the chan-
cel of the church contains a mural monument to j
Richard Lord Byron (one of the ancestors of the j
present celebrated Lord Byron) who, with his seven
brothers, bore arms in the royal cause during the
civil wars.
LiTTLEBonocoH.] — Littleborough, 8j miles E. by
N. from East Ketford, is considered to be the Sege-
locuin, or Agelocum, of the Itinerary of Antoninus.
In the year 1084, when the inclosures between the •
bridge and town were first plowed up, many coins
of Nerva, Trajan, Hadrian, Constantine, &c. were
found, besides intaglios of agate, and cornelian, the '•
finest coloured urns and paterae, some wrought in
basso relievo, with the workman's name generally
impressed on the inside of the bottom ; also a discus,
or quoit, with an emperor's head embossed on it.
Many other Roman antiquities have since been found
in the neighbourhood.
MANSFIELD.] — The largo and ancient market town
of Mansfield, is 14 miles N. by W. from Notting-
ham, and 138 N. N. W. from London. According
to fabulous history, the Counts of Mansfield, in
Germany, came here to attend at the tournaments of
King Arthur's round table, and thus the place ac-
quired its name. The following quotation, however,
from a paper in the Harleian collection, affords a
preferable etymology : — " North from Annesley is
the town of Kirby in Ashfield, in the north part
whereof riseth a little brooke named ' Man,' which
descended thence northward by the town of Sutton
in Ashfield, and so through the town of Mansfield in
Sherwood forest, an ancient market town, and hath
its name of the said water, as I take it." — -That it
was a British, and afterwards a Roman station, is
generally believed. Its Roman occupancy is proved
by the discovery of many coins of Vespasian, Con-
stantine, Marcus Aurelius, &c. ; by the exploratory
camps, which are numerous in its vicinity ; and par-
ticularly by the more recent discovery of a Roman
villa. — It seems to have flourished during the Saxon
heptarchy, being a favourite, though temporary, re-
sidence of the Mercian kings, in consequence of its
neighbouring forest, then well supplied with beasts
of chase. — In the time of Edward the Confessor it
was royal demesne, and was continued as such by
William the conqueror, and by bis son William
Rnfus, who gave the church of Mansfield, and all
its possessions, to the cathedral of St. Mary at
Lincoln. — The inhabitants still consider the honour
of the town connected with the antiquity of the
story of the king (Henry II.) and the milk* of
Mansfield ; and tradition says that the mill and
house, situated on the left hand of the road passing
from Mansfield to Sutton, were built on the site of
the house and mill where the King was entertained.
In the reign of John, the inhabitants paid fifteen
marks to the crown, for the right of common in
Clipstone Park; and, by paying five marks to
Henry the Third, they obtained a charter for a
weekly market : and, from the same monarch, they
obtained the privilege of having housebote ana
haybote out of the forest. In the reign of Henry
the Eighth this manor was granted to the Earl of
Surrey, for his gallant conduct at Flodden field ;
but the King afterwards gave him some other lands
in exchange for it ; after which it went to the then
Dukes of Newcastle, who from thence took the
title of Viscount Mansfield. The town is ill-paved
and dirty ; yet it contains many good houses, and
is in a flourishing state. The Quakers are nnme-
The most ancient house is supposed to be
rons.
that in Church Street, now the White Hart Inn ;
which was, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, the
residence of Lady, or Dame Cecily Flogan, sup-
posed to be the widow of a Knight. She was very
pious and charitable, giving much to the church to
pray for her soul ; and obliging certain of her te-
nants to keep a stout and able bull and boar for the
use of the parish. The house has its ground-floor
built of stone, but the upper part is woodframed,
though with some modern alterations. At the east
end of the town, is a good modern house, built in
1762, by Colonel Lichfield, and called Ratcliffe-
gate.
St. Peter's church is a good building, of the later
Gothic, in length 93 feet, and 63 feet wide. It was
partly burnt down in 1304, with the town ; but
having been re-edified, is now in good preser-
vation. A very fine-toned organ was erected here,
in 1795. — Here are many monuments, and monu-
mental inscriptions, with brass plates both inscribed
and armorial ; also considerable remains of painted
glass.
Mansfield contains many respectable sectarians.
The Presbyterian meeting-house is a neat and spa-
cious building, with an organ. A neat building has
• also been erected by the Calvinists ; and here are
\ comfortable meeting-houses for the Quakers and
Methodists. — A free grammar-school was founded
here by Queen Elizabeth, with two scholarships of
It)/, each at Jesus college Cambridge. The school-
house was rebuilt in the reign of Queen Anne. Here
, is a charity-school for 36 boys, who are clothed and
! educated ; and also four Sunday-schools.
Amongst the manufactures, which have much im-
proved the town of late years, are five cotton mills,
upon a very extensive scale ; one of which has 2400
spindles, with carding nnd roving machinery. Here
; are also upwards of 700 frames employed in making
i stockings and gloves, both of silk and cotton. An
iron foundery possesses an extensive trade ; and the
malting and stone trades have long been of consi-
derable
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
derable importance. The patent circular saw was
invented here, by James Murray.
The Town-Hull was built by Lady Oxford, in
1752, for the purpose of accommodating the market
folks with shelter ; and also to supply the town with
an apartment suitable to municipal business, and
the gentry with a good Assembly Room. — There is
a Coffee and Reading-Room, at the Swan Inn,
supported by subscription. — The Theatre is small,
but commodious. — A Bowling-Green, in Leeming
Lane, is supported by subscription. The house
contains a Billiard-Room, and an Assembly-Room,
where the Justices transact business occasionally. —
A handsome and commodious cold bath affords
both health and comfort to the inhabitants. " In
this neighbourhood," observes a modern writer,
"are many domestic excavations in the rocks, where
the modern Troglodytes have their huts, and even
their gardens, formed in the bosom of the sterile
•tone ; and, in some parts, the incautious visitor
may run the risk of stepping down a chimney !" —
Some of the manor customs of Mansfield are cu-
rious. According to the " Forest Book," " te-
iiaunts be fre of blode and lefully may marye them
after ther willes as wel men men as women, — that
the eyres as sone as they bene born, byen of full age,
— and that lands are departabill betwixt sonnes, or
daughters if ther be no sonne." This seems a rem-
nant of the old Saxon custom of Gavelkind. — The
town of Mansfield has given birth to several eminent
characters, of whom some particulars will be found
in the note below.*
In the immediate neighbourhood of Mansfield,
stands Sherwood Hall, the seat of John Need, Esq.
Its situation is pleasant, and its grounds are orna-
mented with thriving plantations. — Nettleworth,
the residence of Edward Greaves, Esq. stands in a
hamlet of that name, in Pinxton parish, which is
half in Derbyshire and half in Nottinghamshire. —
* William Mansfield, bred a Dominican, was much esteemed
for his great proficiency in logics, ethics, physics, and meta-
physics. He defended Thomas Aquinas against Henry Gan-
tlavensis, although both these great Polemics had long been in
the grave.
Humprey Ridley, sou of Thomas Ridley of this place, be-
came a student of Merlon College in 1671, at the age of 18.
He afterwards became fellow of the College of Physicians, anil
wrote " the Anatomy and Physiology of the Brain ;" also a
particular "Account of Animal Functions, and Muscular Mo-
tion."
Dr. William Chappel, who graduated at Christ church, col-
lege Cambridge, got considerable preferment in Ireland, being
Provost of Dublin college, ami bishop of Cork and Ross. In
the presence of James the First, there was a public commence-
ment at Cambridge, when Mr. Chappel opposed Dr. Roberts
of Trinity so closely, that the doctor, unable to solve or to
answer his arguments, actually fell into a swoon. The king, to
hold up the commencement, undertook to maintain the thesis
himself; but Chapel pushed him so home, that the king thank-
ed God the opponent was his subject, and not another's, lest he
should lose the throne as well as the chair. Dr. Chappel died
at Derby ; and was buried at Rihihorpe in this county.
Simon Sterne, father ot Dr. Richard Slerne, archbishop of
York, whose third son, another Simon, was grandson of the
well known Lawrence Sterne, lived here.
TOL. IV. — NO. 43.
Here is also Brooxhill Hall, the seat of Colonel
Hall ; and Berry Hall, on the edge of the Forest,
the seat of T. W;ilker, Esq. — The ramble from
Mansfield into the Forest towards Ruiford and Ol-
lerton, is extremely pleasing. About one mile from
the town, a gate opens upon the forest, where the
view presents a striking contrast. On the right it is
wild and waste, swelling into hills covered with fern
and heath ; whilst on the left a charming cultivated
valley salutes the eye. — From Mansfield, in a west-
erly direction, is an agreeable ramble towards Hard-
wick hall, in Derbyshire, f A short turn to the left
brings the traveller to Skegby, a chapel to Mansfield,
which is worth visiting, on account of its retired
situation, and also for the purpose of viewing some
antique pieces of monumental sculpture, one of
which is highly illustrative of ancient times, though
without date, being two rude figures of a man arid
woman in the attitude of prayer, the man evidently
a forester with the bugle horn hanging at his side.
Near this is a seat of T. Lindley, Esq.—" From
Mansfield westward" says a paper in the Harleian
Collection, " is the town of Tershall (now Tever-
shall) wherein is the house of John Molyneux, Esq.
whose grandfather married the daughter and heire
of Roger Greenhalgh, Esq. owner thereof, whose
ancester long before had married with the heir of
Barry, a Gentleman of ancient name and continuance
in this shire." This manor is still the property of
the ftlolyneux family ; and the place is particularly
worth notice on accouut of its ancient church dedi-
cated to St. Lawrence. In the inside are some
antique monuments of Molyneux, Babington, Green-
halgh, &c. — Part of the old mansion-house remains,
with some armorial bearings in stonework ; and there
is an excellent and commodious rectory-house with
good gardens, &c.
In this neighbourhood is Pleasley, a little village
standing partly in the two counties.
Robert Dodsley, bom at Anston in this neighbourhood, in
1703, was the protege of Pope, and the friend of Shenstone.
He was put apprentice to a stocking weaver of Mansfield ; and,
being sturved, he ran away, and was hired as a servant by a
lady in London, in whose service he had the liberty of perusing
her library. Perceiving that he employed his leisure in im-
proving himself, the lady gave him great encouragement, and
he published a volume of poems, by subscription, entitled
" The Muse in Livery ;" soon alter which he was induced to
write the entertainment of the "Toy Shop," which being shewn
to Pope and others, they approved of it so much, as to prevail
on one of the theatrical managers to bring it forward, and it met
with unbounded applause. Out of the profits of its exhibition,
added to the liberality of the lady and her friends, Mr. Dods-
ley was enabled to setup a shop, which, with his own prudence
and integrity through hie, laid the foundation of his subsequent
good forumc. — He also wrote a popular entertainment, "The
King and Miller of Mansfield," and afterwards a sequel to it,
called " Sir John Cockle at Court." His tragedy of ' Cleone'
was successfully acted at Covent Garden Theatre. His excel-
lent little work, "The Economy of Human Life," had a great
sale, from a notion that it was by Lord Chesterfield. Mr.
Dodsley was the projector of "The Annual Register," and.
many other useful works. He died at Durham, in 1764,
Vide Vol. II. p. 61.
Pleasley
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
Plcasley Forge is an extensive range of cotton
works seated on the rivulet which divides Netting
ham and Derbyshire. The scenery here is particu-
larly fine. After crossing a handsome bridge which
unites the two counties, and ascending a hill, at a little
distance is a small building erected a few years ago
by Major Hayman Rooke, to preserve a tcsselated
Roman pavement, and to commemorate the site of
an ancient Roman Villa discovered by that gentle-
man, of which an account may be seen in the eighth
volume of the Archseologia.
Mansfield Woodhouse, 1| miles N. from Mans-
field, is a very extensive village, containing many
good houses. Sir Robert Plumpton, Knt. in the
time of Henry the sixth, died possessed of one
bovate in this manor called " Wolf huntland," held
by the service of winding a horn, and driving or
frightening the wolves in the forest of Sherwood.
" Be it had in mynd that the town of Mansfield
Woodhouse was burned the Saturday next afore
the feast of Exaltation of the holy crosse, the year
of our Lord M.CCCIIII, and the kirkstepull with
afore.of tymbre worke ; and part of the kirk was
burned." — Before this accident, the church had three
aisles, but now has only two. in the steeple are
four bells and a small saint's bell, which in Catholic
times was rung when the priest came to the service
" holy ! holy ? Lord God of Sabaoth !" that those
who staid at home might join witli the congregation
in the most solemn part of the office. — The house of
the late Sir William Boothby, Bart, was built by the
Digby family. — There are several ancient houses in
the village, once the abodes of opulence, but now
mostly inhabited by poor families. At one end of
the village is a small eminence called Winny-hill, on
which are some remains of a Roman exploratory
camp.
Sutton in Ashfteld, 3| miles W. S. W. from Mans-
field, is the same parish of which the sentimental
Lawrence Sterne was vicar. Here is a considera-
ble pottery of red ware of a coarse kind, for garden
pots, &c.
MARKHAM.] — East and West Markham both lie
\i miles (the former N. the latter N. W.) from Tux-
ford. The large and populous village of East Mark-
ham is rapidly improving ; as its common lands have
recently been inclosed, upon a scale of general con-
venience, the private roads being thirty feet in width,
and the public foot roads six. The church, which has
u lofty embattled tower, contains several antique
monuments; particularly one of Judge Markham, as
far back as 1409. Amongst the ancient religious
benefactions in this place was a curious grant by
Avicia, wife of Jordan de Chevercourt, who gave to
the monks at Blythe, a bovate of land " for a re-
fection of the monks on the day of her anniversary,
that by their intercession, her soul in heaven might
have refection with celestial meat and drink, &c."
At West Markham is a large moor, recently inclosed.
At East Markham there is a school for twelve boys,
and eight girls, partly supported by private sub-
scription, and partly by a bequest of ten pounds
per annum for ever. — Sir John Markham, a native
of this place, educated to the law, was knighted by
Edward the Fourth, and made Lord Chief Justice
of the King's Bench, in the room of Sir John For-
tescue.
MATTEnsEY.]— This is a genteel, yet retired vil-
lage, on a gentle rise, 3{ miles S. E. from Bantry.
It was the property of E'arl Tosti before the Con-
quest. The present lord of the manor is Jonathan
Ackholm, Esq. of Weston Hall. — The church, a
handsome Gothic edifice, in excellent preservation,
is a most pleasing object in the village. Some curi-
ous carvings were discovered some years ago under
the old pavement of the chancel floor, which are now
placed against the south wall of the choir. In the
reign of Edward the First, this church was appro-
priated to the neighbouring priory. — A handsome
stone bridge over the Idle is of great use, and also
an ornament to the village. — About half a mile dis-
tant are some small remains of the Gilbertine priory,
founded for six canons by Roger Fitz Ranulph de
Maresey before 1192. — Crossing the Idle by Mat-
tersey bridge, a rural road, shaded by plantations,
leads to Drakelow, one of the.depots for the Ches-
terfield and Trent canal, which passes by here. This
was a Roman station ; and here ran a Roman road,
which, though nearly obliterated, has yet some faint
traces, and was evidently connected with the neigh-
bouring station of Agflocum, or Littleborough.
This canal pursues a winding course of two miles
through Mr. Acklom's estate, of Wiseton hall, which
stands nearly in the centre of the manor, in Claworth
parish. It was originally the residence of the Nel-
thorpe family ; but was purchased, nearly two cen-
turies ago, by an ancestor of the Ackloms. Very
little of the ancient mansion remains. The present
house forms a handsome elevation of a centre three
story high, with two wings of one lofty story each :
the whole light and airy, and accompanied by a
commodious range of offices. Its situation, though
not commanding, is highly pleasing. The interior
arrangements are elegantly modern ; and the apart-
ments contain some valuable paintings.
MUSKIIAM.] — North and South Muskham, from
two to four miles N. from Newark, on the great
North road, now form one long village. The church,
situated in the centre of the village, has a respect-
able Gothic appearance, and contains some old
monuments. — In South Muskam is the Grange, the
seat of W. Rastall, Esq. who has distinguished
himself as a topographer of some of the most inte-
resting parts of his native county. In North Musk-
ham, is Muskham House, a superb modern edifice,
built in 1793, the residence of Joseph Pocklington,
Esq. — A singular character, named Wass, died at
this village in 1805. About thirty years before his
decease, he made a vow never to step out of his
house on any account ; and notwithstanding the en-
treaties of his friends, he scrupulously adhered to
his vow.
Winthorpe
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
27
Winthorpe Hall, the scat of R. Pooklington, Esq.
an elegant building of two stories on a rustic base-
ment, is also in this neighbourhood. The planta-
tions and grounds are extensive ; and on a gentle
rise, which commands charming prospects, is an
octagonal temple, with a table made out of part of
the wrecks of the Spanish floating batteries destroyed
at the memorable attack on Gibraltar.
NETTLEWORTH.] — See Mansfield.
NEWARK.] — The market and borough town of
Newark upon Trent, is 194 N. E. from Notting-
ham, and 124£ N. N. W. from London. Arthur
Young says, "it is a very pretty and well built town ;
remark when you see it, particularly the steeple,
which, for some miles around, appears very light
and beautiful : there is likewise a new street worth
viewing; although the houses are very small, yet
each side of the street forms but one front, and is in
a very pretty neat taste." The market place is very
handsome and spacious. Throsby, and some other
antiquaries, look for the Roman station " Ad Pon-
tem" here ; hut Dickinson endeavours to fix that
station at Southwell.— That Newark, however, was
a Roman station, is beyond a doubt. Stukeley says
that it was certainly raised from the neighbouring
Roman cities, and has been walled about with their
remains ; and he adds, that the northern gate was
composed of stones seemingly of Roman cut ; and
not improbably the Romans themselves had a town
hereabouts, for many antiquities are found about it,
especially by the Fosse side which runs through
the town. Horsley says, " I make no doubt but
that this large town has arisen out of the ruins of
Ad Pontem on one side, and Crocolana on the other.
The name ' Newark,' which implies some prior build-
ing of greater antiquity, may perhaps refer to those i
Roman stations on each side of it." Dickinson i
notices, that Stukeley with great acumen shews the •
probability, and almost certainty, that this was the j
Sidnaceaster of old, once a bishopric in the early j
days of Christianity. Innumerable quantities of |
Roman coins, and other antiquities, have been found '
here. Stukely also thinks that the Roman najne was
Kliiivaiu ; and that the branch of the river now call- ,
ed the Trent, which passes under the walls of the :
castle, is not the Trent, but the united streams
of the Davon and Suite. Stukely adds, that the
Roman town being destroyed by the Scots and Picts
after the departure of that people, it was refoundcd i
by the Saxons, who to the name of the river Suite
on .which it stands added the termination ' Ceaster,' ',
to mark its having been a Roman station, thus form- j
ing Sidnaceaster. Dickinson conceives it highly j
probable that the Danes may have destroyed the
Saxon refounded city, and hence New-work was
applied tp it in the reign of Edward the Confessor, j
— James the First arrived at Newark, on his way to
London, on the 21st of April 1602, on which occa- j
sion he was received by the corporation, and address- j
cd by the alderman, (there being then no mayor,)
Mr. John Twenty man, in a long Latin speech, with
which his Majesty was so well pleased, that he con-
ferred upon him the ofiice of purveyor of wax to the
royal household, in the counties of Notts, York,
i Lincoln, and Derby. — In the reign of Charles the
j First, Newark became a necessary garrison ; and
had not only subjected this county, the town of Not-
tingham only exceptfd, but had a great part of the
county of Lincoln under contribution. Tlioroton
says that Newark was one of the most considerable
garrisons the king had, in which the loyally and
courage of the townsmen were remarkable, in all their
three sieges. — The Beacon Hill was the scene of an
action between Prince Rupert, and the Parliamen-
1 tarian nrrny under Sir John Meldrutn. — During the
: second siege, in 1644, one Clay, a tradesman of
some eminence residing in the market square, as is
recorded on Jiis monument in the church, dreamed
three successive times in one night, that his house
was in flames. At the conclusion of the last dream
he got up much confused, and caused his whole
family to leave the house ; very soon after which, a
bomb-shell from Beacon-hill fell on his habitation,
and, passing through every floor, set it on fire —
During the third siege, on the>first of January, 1645,
the Newarkers made a most determined sally upon
Poyntz's quarters at Stoke, and killed and took
above 200 of his men. The most effectual attack,
however, was on the first of April in the same year,
when they killed and drowned several hundreds of
the enemy's choice troops, and took so many pri-
soners, that their numbers caused great sickness in
the town. Newark might have sustained the siege
many months longer ; but it was surrendered to the
Scots army, by the king's order, on the 19th of May
1645-6. A gentleman volunteer, Mr. Gawen Ruther-
ford, well deserves to be kept in remembrance for
his loyalty; "for having twenty-nine children by
one wife, lie ' trooped' under his twenty-seventh
child, who was a commander for his Majesty at
Newark."
The streets of this town are kept in very respect-
able condition : yet, this is but of late date, though
an act of parliament for paving. them was passed in
the 27th of Queen Elizabeth. It was not, however,
until the middle of James's reign, that even the
paving of the market place was begun, and that only
a causeway six feet broad from the west corner of
the market place to the south porch of the church.
At that time there was a cross in the centre of the
market place. — The castle and its precinct, though
within the borough of Newark, are in the parish of
Stoke. It was built, or re-edified, in the reign of
Stephen, by Alexander, bishop of Lincoln. Stephen,
having seized both the bishop and his uncle, kept
them in durance until they had surrendered to him
all their fortresses. In the days of John, it several
times changed hands. Whilst a royal garrison, the
troops repeatedly sallied out, wasting the lands of
the neighbouring rebellious barons ; but the Dauphiu
of France ordered Gilbert de Gaunt, whom he had
created Earl of Lincoln, to proceed with consider-
able
28
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
able force, either to reduce it, or to repel the soldiers
of the garrison. He, however, having got intelli-
gence of the king's approach, retreated to London ;
but John, having in his march over the washes lost
a part of his army, with his carriages and military
chost, who were all surprized and overwhelmed l>y
a rapid flood tide, retired to this castle, whore he
rnded his unfortunate reign in 1216, the 19th of
October. — The governor, Robert de Gangi, seems
now to have given it tip to the barons ; for Henry
the Third, on his accession, found it in their hands,
and directed it to he restored to the bishop of Lin-
coln. In 1530, Cardinal Wolsey lodged here with
a great retinue, in his way to Southwell. — Though
now in ruins, this fortress still presents an august
appearance, which would be more so, were it not
that its remains are applied to the .purposes of coal
wharfs, stables, &c. The north front overlooking
the river is the most perfect, having a large square
tower at the north east angle, and another in the
centre of the elevation, lu the principal story, is an
excellent projecting window, a perfect specimen
of those called bays, or bowers, in ancient times. —
The general outline of the plan of the castle is
square ; its dimensions are large ; and the number
of stories seems to have been at least five. Within
the exterior walls, nothing remains ; and the plot
lias long been used as a bowling green. — Under the
great hall, is a most curious arched vault or crypt,
supported by a row of pillars in the middle, and
having loops and embrasures towards the river in
which were planted cannon in the civil wars. At
the end of the vault, are some remains of the entrance
of a subterraneous passage ; also some vestiges of
a staircase from the vault up to the hall.
Newark Bridge, which crosses the river close by
the castle, was originally of wood, but pulled down
in 1775, being quite ruinous. Henry Duke of New-
castle then caused one to be erected of brick, faced
with stone.
The Church, which has lonff been considered as
the lirst parish church in the kingdom, is of the age
of Henry the Sixth. Thoroton says " 1 suppose it
better than all the ten mentioned in Domesday book,
which I guess were not all in the town, though in
the Soc." The exterior is most superb ; (millions
and tracery of excellent designs fill the windows ;
in different parts of the building are niches with
statues, and other decorations ; and there is perhaps
no ecclesiastical edifice which contains such a num-
ber of short ludicrous busts, forming spout heads,
&c. except Magdalen college in Oxford. The other
church having been destroyed during ths civil wars,
this seems to have had the undivided attention of
succeeding generations. The tower is light and
handsome, possesses much symmetry and beauty1,
and has a peal of eight bells. It is much ornament-
ed with arch work and imagery, and supports a lofty
stone spire adorned with the twelve apostles in niches.
— The inside of the church has a cathedral like ap-
pearance ; but the nave is narrow and gloomy. The
pillars are light and beautiful ; the choir is inclosed
by a rich screen of wooden carved work, and has a
spacious east aisle behind it. The aisles are lofty,
and the pavement is covered with sepulchral memo-
rials ; besides which the numerous monuments and
brasses are in good preservation. The new galle-
ries add much to the beauty and convenience of the
building.— The windows have formerly been filled
with painted glass, some of which are still in good
preservation. A curious brass of an ecclesiastic,
on a large slab, at the entrance of the south transept,
contains the figure under a rich canopy of three
arches with double rows of saints round it. Over
the saints, an angel sided by two naked figures ;
under the two uppermost saints kneel figures with
labels. Angels at the side of his head hold censers,
or litui. He is in curled flowing hair, a long coat
with pocket holes in front, and over it a kind of
mantle lined with something like minever, his sleeves
are buttoned to the wristbands, and from his con-
joined hands falls a scroll inscribed "Miserere mei,
domine Deus meus." He has pointed shoes, or half
boots, with a buckle or opening in the instep. Be-
tween his feet is represented a lion hunting. The
whole figure is much worn by trampling ; but the
tradition of the place is, " that this is the grave of
Alan Flemyng, the founder of the church, and of
course the oldest one in it." — The communion plate
is all of massy silver, the gifts and bequests of vari-
ous individuals.
Here was an hospital, dedicated to St. Leonard,
founded by Alexander, bishop of Lincoln, in the
latter end of Henry the First, or beginning of that
of Stephen. — Here were also a house of Austin
friars, and another of Observant friars. — An ancient
hospital for sick persons, belonging to the knights
templars, was founded here in 1185 : and at the
further end of the Northgate street was a great
house called the Spittle, burnt down in the civil
wars. Here also were formerly a great house called
the Chauntry free-school, and a song school at the
north west corner of the church-yard for an organist
and six choristers. The present grammar-school
was founded by Dr. Thomas Magnus, in 1529.
The Market-place, though a handsome square, is
traditionally said to be much smaller than it once
was. — The townhall, an elegant building of stone,
was erected in 1805, by the corporation, at an expense
of 17000/. It stands in the market-place, has a
narrow, but light and airy front, and possesses con-
siderable depth. The basement is rustic ; four hand-
some pillars support a pediment ornamented with
the corporation arms. On the top is a statue of
Justice, and the ballustrades give it a handsome
finish. It is three stories high, and has seven win-
dows in front. Here are held the concerts and as-
semblies, corporate meetings, &c.
A cotton mill was erected here some years ago,
of considerable size, from which a great number of
poor derive a comfortable subsistence. In North-
gate, is a brewery, where a great trade was formerly
carried
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
29
carried on with the northern parts of Europe, until
a heavy duty was imposed on the importation ot
Uritish beer by the Russian government.
The Work-house, one of the best in the kingdom,
is capacious and well aired. The sexes are judici-
ously separated. — The industry of the paupers is
also well attended to. Some of the children are
employed at the cotton-mill ; others are permitted
to engage in such work as suits them in different
parts of the town ; and the grown people are allowed
two -pence in the shilling out of their earnings. —
The badge, as appointed by the act of William the
Third, is worn by the paupers ; but on its having
been laid aside some years ago, the paupers increased
so much, that it was soon restored, and it was then
found that several persons who had before made re-
gular applications to the parish immediately declined
asking for relief. Considerable sums are here
annually distributed amongst the poor in money,
coals, corn, bread, &c. There are two hospitals,
or alms-houses, for the reception of 14 decayed
tradesmen, and 10 widows. There are 10 or 12
friendly societies in the town.
The Saracen's head, in this town, has existed as an
inn ever since the days of Edward the Third ; the
White Hart, since the time of Henry the Fourth ;
and the Swan and Salmon, near to the castle, as far
back as Henry the Eighth.
Subscription dances and card assemblies are held
at the Town-hall. The assembly room is handsomely
finished with Corinthian pilasters, and a rich coved
ceiling. At one end of this, the sessions are occa-t
sionally held ; and at the other the corporation meet
to transact public business.
The borough of Newark is the last in England
which received a chartered right of representation,
so late as the '29th of Charles the Second. The
electors consist of the mayor, 12 aldermen, 12 assis-
tants, and about 700 or 800 others. — The immediate
vicinity of the town has been much cut up by mili-
tary works in the civil wars. — At Beacon hill, are
some extensive quarries of gypsum.
At Balderton, two miles S. E. from Newark, is a
handsome seat of Joseph Sykes, Esq. This village
is remarkable for a curious Saxon porch to the
church, richly wrought with zig zag mouldings and
ox's heads ; and for a curious epitaph of Anne
Lake, in 16r>0, according to which,
• she was sent
In virgin coy ne to pay dame nature's rent."
It concludes witli asserting, that
" Tlie next to the martyr's, is the virgin's place !"
Staunton in the Vale, 6[ miles S. from Newark,
is situated in the vale of Belvoir, at the extremity
of the county, adjoining Lincolnshire and Leicester-
shire. The lordship, whichcontains 1300 acres of land,
belonged to two maiden ladies, Anne and Emma,
the only surviving daughters of Job Staunton Charl-
VOL. IV. — NO. 143.
ton, Esq. the last male heir of this most ancient fa-
mily, who died in 1777. His father was Gilbert
Charlton, second son of Sir Job Charlton, baronet ;
and his mo'ther Anne, the eldest daughter of Harvey
Stauntou, Esq. whose ancestors had been in pos-
session of this place, from the time of the Saxons in
1060. Anne, the eldest and last surviving daughter
of J. S Charlton, Esq. left her estates to her second
cousin Elizabeth, the wife of the Rev. John Ashr
pinshaw, LL.D. directing that they and their issue
should take the name and bear the arms of Stann-
ton only. — The mansion is a handsome and noble
structure, with many excellent rnoms of large dimen-
sions ; and from the gardens and pleasure grounds,
which are very beautiful and extensive, there is a
delightful view of Belvoir castle. Sir Mauger Staun-
ton defended this castle against William the Con-
queror, and there made his composition and contract
for his lands, and had the strongest fortress therein,
ever since called by his name " Staunton's Tower."
— The church is a handsome structure, with a tower,
containing four bells. In the interior are many
ancient monuments of the Stauntons. — The Rev.
Dr. Staunton has made great improvements in
planting and ornamenting the place.
SJbthorpe, 5| miles S. S. W. from Newark, had
once a large mansion of the Burnells ; and in the
church are some ancient tombs of that family. Here
was a college founded by Jeoffrey le Scroop, in the
reign of Edward the Second.
Stoke by Newark, or East Stoke, is a pleasant
village, on the banks of the Trent, 3£ miles S. W.
from Newark. It lies upon the fosse, and may have
been a Roman station. It had an ancient hospital,
for a master, chaplains, brethren, and sick persons.
Near the church, is a pleasing little mansion, the
residence of Sir George Smith Bromley, Bart. The
grounds, though small, are pleasing, and have an
extensive prospect over the vale of Trent. Stoke-
field was the scene of the battle between Henry the
Seventh, and the army under the Earl of Lincoln,
who had espoused the cause of the impostor, Lambert
Simnel.
NEWSTEAD.] — At Newstead, five miles S. from
Mansfield, stands Newstead abbey, the ancient family
scat of Lord Byron ; a nobleman pre-eminently dis-
tinguished, in the present day, as the author of
" Childe Harold," and numerous other poetical
works. — The abbey was founded as a priory of Black
canons, about 1 170, by Henry the Second. At the
Dissolution, it was granted to Sir John Byron,
Lieutenant of Sherwood forest. Sir John imme-
diately fitted up part of the edifice ; hut the church
was suffered to go to decay, though the south aisle
was actually incorporated into the dwelling-house,
and now contains some of the most habitable apart-
ments. Arthur Young describes it as "situated in a
vale in the midst of an extensive park finely planted ;
on one side of the house, a very large winding lake
was then making ; on the other side, a very fine
lake flowed almost up to the house : the banks on one
H side
30
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
jiidc consisted of fine woods which spread over the
edge of a hill down to the water ; on the other shore,
•were scattered groves and a park. On the banks,
were two castles washed by the water of the lake ;
they were uncommon, though picturesque ; hut it
seemed unfortunate that the cannon should be level-
led at the parlour windows. A 20 gun ship, with
several yachts and boats lying at anchor, threw an
air of most pleasing cheerfulness over the scene.
The riding up the hill led to a Gothic building,
whence the view of the lakes, the abbey and its fine
arch, the plantations and the park, were seen at once,
and formed a very noble landscape." — Such once
was Newstead abbey ; but some unfortunate family
differences between the late lord, and his son the
father of the present peer, induced him to sell every
thing belonging to the mansion, and not only to
suffer every part, both of the house and grounds,
to go to decay, but even to dilapidate great part
df it, until he was stopped by an injunction in chan-
cery. The front of the abbey church has a noble
and majestic appearance, being built in the form of
the west end of a cathedral, adorned with rich carv-
ings and lofty pinnacles. The castellated stables
and offices are still to be seen, as the visitor enters
into a sombre deserted court-yard in the midst of
which is a curious erection of red stone in the form
of an antique cross. In front is the west end of the
ancient church ; also the venerable front of the man-
sion with its towers, and battlements, and Gothic
windows, and 'on the right some additional buildings
in the castellated style, originally intended for domes-
tic offices. Ascending some steps, a heavy grated
door and porch open, into the great hall, in the
antique style ; its only ornaments are two pictures
of a wolf-dog, and another from Newfoundland,
favourites of his lordship. — The drawing room con-
tains a few family pictures ; and here is an ancient
carved wooden chimney-piece, in which are intro-
duced four of the old monarchs of this kingdom,
Henry the Eighth and two of his wives, and the
family arms of Byron. — The gallery over the cloy-
sters is antique ; and from its windows are seen the
cloystcr court, with a basin in the centre used as a
stew for fish. — The great dining room is a noble
apartment. His lordship's study contains some unu-
sual ornaments for such a place ; but as. the house
itself is a mansion of the dead, for the monkish
cemetry was iu the cloisters •, it may account for
the noble owner's taste in decorating it with the
relics of the dead, instead of the more tasty orna-
ments of bow-pots add flower vases. Here also
are some good classic busts, an antique crucifix,
&c. — A small drawing room next to this apartment
contains some good modern paintings. In King
Edward the' Third's room, so called on account of
that monarch having slept there, is an ancient chim-
ney, which, with the whole fitting up of the apart-
ment, seems to be coeval with the royal visit. —
Next to this is the sounding gallery, having a very
remarkable echo. — The cloysters exactly resemble
those of Westminster Abbey, on a small scale. These
were the cloysters of the ancient abbey, and many
of its ancient tenants now Ke in silent repose under
their pavement. The habitable part of the house
opens into this scene of departed mortality, and even
has it in some measure as a thoroughfare. These
cloysters lead into an ancient and extensive crypt
under the body of the church, but for many gene-
rations used as cellars. Here also was the singing
room for the practice of choristers, now handsomely
fitted up as a hath. The ancient chapel is stilt
entire, though in ruin ; its ceiling is a handsome
specimen of the Gothic style of springing arches.
This chapel was also used as a cemetery. — An anci-
ent Gothic green-house, with an antique roof, now
opens into the garden which was once the burying
ground of the church, and in which a large circular
| vault was dug a few years ago, with a handsome
i pedestal of white marble, erected to the memory of
a Newfoundland dog, to which his lordship once
owed his life. On one side of the monument appears
the following
INSCRIPTION.
" Near this spot are deposited the remains of one,
who possessed beauty without vanity, strength without
insolence, courage without ferocity, and all the virtues
of man without his vices. — This praise, which would
be unmeaning flattery if inscribed over human ashes,
is but a just tribute to the memory of BOATSWAIN, a
Dog, who was born in Newfoundland, May, 1803, and
died at Newstead, October, 1808.
" When some proud son of man returns to earth,
Unknown to glory, but upheld by birth ;
The sculptor's art exhausts the pomp of woe,
And storied urns record who rests below ;
When all is done— upon the tomb is seen,
Not what he was— but what he would have been :
But this poor Dog, in life the firmest friend,
The first to welcome— foremost to defend ;
Whose honest heart is still the master's own?
Who labours, fights, lives, breathes, for him alone,
Unhonoured falls ! unnoticed of his worth,
Dt-nied in Heaven, the soul he held on Earth ;
While Man, vain insect ! hopes to be forgiven,
And claims himself, a sole, exclusive Heaven !
Oh Man ! thou feeble tenant of an hour,
Debas'd by slavery, or corrupt by power ;
Who knows thee well, must ciuit thee with disgust,
Degraded mass of animated dust !
Thy love is lust, thy friendship all a cheat,
Thy smiles hypocrisy — thy words deceit —
By nature vile — enobled b,ut by name,
Each kindred brute might bid thee blush for shame.
Ye who behold perchance this simple urn,
Pass on, it honours none you wish to mourn ;
To mark a friend's remains these stones arise,
I never knew but one, and here he lies !"
Papplewick, a pleasant village, containing exten-
sive cotton mills, is in this neighbourhood. The
chapel was rebuilt in the Gothic style in 1797. — In
this vicinity is a curious hollow rock in the side of a
hill, traditionally called " Robin Hood's stable,"
which Mr. Rooke considers likely to have been a
retreat of that character. — Papplewick Hall, the seat
of
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
31
of the Right Hon. Frederick Montague, is an ele-
gant stone edifice, built in 1787. The drawing-
room is a handsome, elegantly furnished, and well
proportioned apartment, 3(i feet by 24. On the right
hand is a library neatly furnished, and arranged,
having over the fire place a very fine statuary mar-
ble bust of the- late Marquis of Rockingham. A
small study adjoins the library. On the left of the
hali is the dining-room, adorned with several family
portraits. A cheerful breakfast parlour adjoins the
library ; and the bed-chambers and dressing rooms
are spacious, and neatly fitted up.
At Oxton, to the east of the Mansfield road, is
Oxton Hall, a neat mansion, with a projecting cen-
tre, and a handsome pediment. It belongs to the
Sberbrooke family.
Calverton, in this neighbourhood, was the birth
place of Mr. Lee, the inventor of the stocking loom.*
At Holy-hill, in this vicinity, major Rooke traced
out the remains of a Roman camp, 417 yards long
and 240 in breadth.
NORMANTON.] — The church of Normanton-upon-
Soar, 14 miles S. S. W. from Nottingham, has a
large font, used when baptism was performed by
dipping. The manor was lately the property of two
eminent breeders and graziers, Messrs. Buckley and
Richards, to the former of whom the late Drike of
Bedford gave, for the use of one of his rams, for
a single season, 700 guineas.
NOTTINGHAM.] — Nottingham, a distinct county,
under 3° Geo. I. called the town and county of the
town of Nottingham, is 124 miles N. N. W. from
London. Its situation is, in all respects, one of the
finest in England. — Stukeley says, one may easily
guess Nottingham to have been an ancient town
of the Britons : as soon as tliey had proper tools,
they fell to work upon the rocks, which every where
offer themselves so commodiously to make houses in,
and he doubts not that here there was a considerable
collection of dwellings of this sort. John Rouse,
a monk of Warwick and canon of Osney, in his
history addressed to king Henry the Seventh, tells
a long and idle tale of the antiquity of Notting-
ham H80 years before the Christian era ; at which
time, according to him, king Ebranc built a town
on the banks of Trent, and partly on this "Dolo-
rous" hill, a name which it had acquired from the
' This person is s«ikl to have lx>en neir tu a pretty freehold
estate, and being deeply in love with a young person to whom
he paid his addresses but whom he always found more intent
upon her knitting, thai> to his vows and "protestations, he was
induced to contrive a machine, which should render the mode
ot knitting by hand entirely useless. Another account states,
that Mr. Lee was a poor curate, and married; and his wife
being obliged to occupy herself industriou ly with knitting,
which interfered very much with the attention necessary to her
family, he was prompted to attempt the invention of the present
complex, yet simple, mach:nery. It is certain that he or his
brother exhibited the loom before Queen Elizabeth ; but his
invention being despised in his native country, he went to
France with several English workmen, where he was patroni-
zed by Henry the Fourth. The murder of that monarch
overturned all his hopes of success ; he died of grief and
extreme grief of the Britons, in consequence of a
great slaughter of them by kingHumber, which took
place here in the reign of king Albanact. Dr.
Dering, indulging himself with conjecture, and con-
sidering the convenient situation of that part of the
forest of Sherwood, in the immediate vicinity of the
site of the present town, thinks it is not unlikely
that several colonies of the Britons had planted
themselves hereabouts, where they were sheltered
from the inclemency of the most prevaling winds of
the winter season, accommodated with the conve-
nience of a southern aspect, and with plenty of
water. Like Dr. Stukely, he imagines it highly
probable, that as soon as these people were provided
with tools for the purpose, finding in these parts a
yielding rock, they might improve their habitations
by making their way into the main rock, and framing
to themselves convenient apartments in it, and that
perhaps long before the Romans came into this neigh-
bourhood. There is no authentic history, however,
which gives any account of the first formation of
the caverns of our ancient Troglodytes ; and we
may safely infer that they are older than the time
of the Romans. A period of greater certainty begins
in the seventh century, at which Nottingham was a
considerable place, and had a strong tower, for its
defence ; and it is certain, that, during the Saxon
heptarchy, it had the name of Stiottingham, from
Snottinga, signifying caves, and ham, a home or
dwelling place, It then belonged to the kingdom of
Mercia, and a part of that kingdom took afterwards,
in king Alfred's reign, its name from this town,
Snottimjham Scyre.f — From the period of the union
of the S'axou heptarchy, Nottingham seems to have
increased in consequence ; and it is particularly
deserving of notice, that it can claim, as a town of
note, the age of more than 900 years ; as a consi-
derable borough, 767 ; as a mayor's town, 524, being
only a century posterior to the metropolis ; as a
parliamentary borough, during which it has con-
stantly sent two representatives, 527 ; and as a
county in itself, a thing very unusual for boroughs,
a space of 359 years, up to the year 1818. — In
the year 852, the Danes came to this place, in
which they were immediately besieged by Buthred,
the Mercian king ; and, ultimately, starved out, they
agreed to conclude a peace, and return home under
chagrin at Paris, and his few surviving workmen returned to
England.
f If the Saxon origin of the name of Nottingham be correct,
may we not suppose also, that Snnttenga, or Saettrngeton, may
have been corrupted into Snenton, of Sneinton. If, then,
there were two places existing in the Saxon times, by the
names of Snottingatott, and Snottengafon, it is a very probable
conjecture, that the spot designated by the appellative of ton,
was more considerable than that which had only the adjunct of
hum, inasmuch as a town is larger than a village, or hamlet.
That such wn* the origin ot the name of Sneinton, now a village
adjoining to N'>ttins>ham, seems almost beyond a doubt, when
we consider that it possesses extensive caverns, of an antiquity
equal to that of the latter place, or at least apparently so : and
it is much to be regretted that the able antiquaries of past days
were not in possession of such a clue to conjecture.
their
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
their leaders Ilengar and Hubba. For a Ions* time,
however, the Danes were very troublesome to Not-
tingham.— William the Conqueror came here in
1068, and soon after founded the castle. In Stephen's
reign, Ralph Paynell, governor of the castle, and
in the interest of Prince Henry, afterwards Henry
the II. invited the Earl of Gloucester in 1140, to take
possession of the town, which, being thus taken, was
plundered, and the inhabitants killed, or burnt in the
churches, to which they had fled for safety. Accord-
ing to Stow, one of the richest of the inhabitants
was forced by one of the robbers to shew them where
his treasure lay : he, accordingly, took them into a
low cellar, whence he escaped, whilst they were in-
tent on plunder ; and, having shut the doors, set
fire to his house, in consequence of which, Hot only
they were burnt, but the whole town was in flames.
Nottingham met with a similar misfortune thirteen
years afterwards ; for when taken by Henry, in 1153,
the garrison retiring from the city to the castle set
fire to the town on their evacuating it. — The town
appears to have Iain in ruins, until the kingdom
became quiet by the death of Prince Henry, when
the inhabitants, having some prospect of protection,
inade great exertions, and the king, to make them
amends for what they had suffered frojn their loyalty,
not only gave them encouragement, and assistance,
in the rebuilding of it, but also granted them a new
charter. — During the contests between Richard the
First and his brother John, Nottingham changed
hands several times ; and, on the king's return from
his captivity, this castle held out a siege of several
<lays, though the king himself besieged it in person.
— lu 1212, John was so pressed, that, relying solely
on the loyalty of this town, he disbanded his army,
and retired hither to shut himself up in the castle.
In 1330, the well known event of the seizure of
* A curious attempt to infringe on the liberty of election
once took place lii-re. In 1386, the Marquis of Dublin, the
royal favourite, having been dismissed in consequence of the
remonstrance* of parliament, he, and some of his adherents, soon
after procured access to the king (Richard 11.) and was, in a
few weeks, accompanied by tlie monarsh into Wales ; where
it was privately settled, that a plan for the assumption of arbi-
trary power should be put in force, and that the patriotic barons,
Gloucester, Arundcl, Derby, Warwick, and Nottingham,
should be the first victims. To insure the success of their
plan, it was determined that the king should raise an army to
keep those barons in check, and that he should then call a par-
liament, the elections for which should be so managed as to
have none but the friends of the favourites summoned or elected.
No sooner was every thing prepared, than Richard, with his
favourites and their friends, proceeded to Nottingham, where
all the sheriffs, and all the judges, were sent for, with many of
die principal citizens of London ; to these, when assembled, the
monarch communicated his design, and demanded ot the she-
rids, what number of troops they could raise immediately. He
then told them to permit no representatives to be chosen lor the
new parliament, thai were not in the list, which he should deli-
ver to them himself ; but the sheriffs immediately answered,
that it was not possible to execute his orders ; for the people
were in general so partial to those noblemen, that it would be
difficult lo levy an army against them ; and they concluded by
Mortimer, Earl of March, by the young king Ed-
ward the Third, took place in the castle. Seven
years afterwards a parliament was called together,
and Nottingham has the honour of being the spot,
whence emanated laws that were the foundation of
England's greatness, as a manufacturing country :
for here it was enacted, that vvhatsoevercloth-workers
of Flanders, or of other countries, would dwell, and
inhabit in England, should come quietly, and peace-
ably, and the most convenient places should be as-
signed to them, with great liberties and privileges,
and the king would become surety for them, until
they should be able to support themselves by their
several occupations. The same parliament also
passed that patriotic law, that no person should wear
any foreign made cloths, with the exception of the
royal family : they also prohibited the exportation of
English wool.* — This town was, in 1461, the ren-
dezvous of Edward the Fourth, where he collected
his troops, and caused him to be proclaimed king,
immediately after landing at Ravenspur in York-
shire.— In 1485, Richard the Third marched from
Nottingham towards Bosworth-lield ; and Henry
the Seventh, in 1487, held his council of war at
Nottingham previously to the battle of Stoke. f — In
1642, Charles the First set up his standard here.
The town being soon after in possession of the par-
liament, the government was entrusted to Colonel
Julius Hutchinson. — After the Restoration, in 1682,
a surreptitious surrender of the charter was procured
by the ministers of Charles the Second, which occa-
sioned great disturbances. A new charter was grant-
ed, but even this was taken away in 1687, by king
James the Second, by a writ of quo warranto, — It
was at Nottingham that the meeting took place be-
tween the earl of Devonshire, and several other
noblemen, to promote the revolution of 1688.J —
From
stating, that it would be still more difficult to deprive the people
of their right of freely electing their representatives in parlia-
ment. The judges, however, were neither so scrupulous, nor
so patriotic, as the sheriffs ; for they answered to the queries
put to them, "that the king was above the law ;" yet, when
required to sign this opinion, they endeavoured to evade it,
until forced by the menaces of the court party. Notwitnstand-
ing this forced submission of the judges, Richard found it im-
possible to do any thing at Nottingham, and therefore returned
to London.
f An extraordinary tempest took place here, in the reign of
Queen Mary, which is thus related by Stow. On the 7th of
July, 1558, "was within a mile of Nottingham, a marvellous
tempest of thunder, which, as it came through two towns,
(Lenton and Wilford) beat down all the houses and churches,
the bells were cast to the outside of the church-yard?, and some
webs of lead 400 feet, into the field, writhen like a pair of
gloves. The river Trent running between the two towns, the
water with the mud in the bottom, was carried a quarter of
a mile, and cast against the trees ; the trees were pulled up by
the roots, and cast twelve-score foot off. There fell some hail-
stones that were 15 inches about."
J An extraordinary phenomenon occurred here in 1785, on
the first of November. In the morning the sky was clear ; but
the preceding day had been overcast, and some claps of thun-
der heard in the evrning, though at a considerable distance.
About
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
-r33
From that period, nothing1 very remarkable has hap-
pened at Nottingham until the disturbances amongst
the stocking manufacturers in the early part oi' 1812,
and the political riots in 1817; occurrences which
are too recent to require detail.'
Nottingham lies in the south west corner of the
county, and ot'Sherwood forest, and is drily and airily
situated upon a soil rock covered with a sandy soil.
On three sides, it is protected by gentle eminences
from the most hurtful blasts, whilst its southern as-
pect gives it every advantage of the enlivening rays
of the noon-tide sun at all seasons of the year. It
overlooks the fertile and extensive vale of Belvoir,
the Nottinghamshire wolds, and the hills of Leices-
tershire. The rock on which it stands, is so high
that even the ground floors of many houses on its
summit, are greatly elevated above the roofs of other
habitations in the Narrow Marsh at its foot. — The
ancient extent of the town was from Chapel bar
across the Mansfield road towards the present bouse
of correction, whence it turned short to the south-
ward, through Coal-pit lane, and thence to the
Hollow stone, then forming the southern entrance
into the town ; thence along the pavements towards
the south side of Castle gate, joining the castle rock,
near to the present brewhouse yard. The antient
walls and gates are now scarcely to be traced,
although in Leland's time some part of them was
remaining. The original wall was built by Edward
the Elder, for the better security and defence of the
place about the year 910, and Williamthe Conqueror
made some addition to it on building the castle. —
About the middle of the last century, Chapel bar
was pulled down, and was then the last remaining
specimen of the ancient gates. The Hollow Stone
may be considered as the remains of an ancient en-
trance or gate to the town. — The streets, in general,
About eleven in the mnrning it became overcast like the former
day, and rained heavily at intervals, until the afternoon, the
wind being first at south-west, and then falling calm. At four
in the afternoon, a water-spout was first seen, proceeding from
a dense cloud, apparently about a quarter of a mile to the
southward of the Trent, and moving slowly towards it ; and
it was remarked, that the branches of the trees, over which it
passed, were bent downwards to the ground. As the cloud
came nearer to the river, it appeared to be1 strongly attracted
by it, and when it crossed did not seem more than 30 or 40 feet
from the surface o! the water, which was violently agitated, and
flew upwards to a great height in every direction. Some persons
who saw it from the Trent bridge, then only about 3UO yards
distant, mistook it at first for a column of thick smoke using
from a warehouse by the Trent side, which they supposed to
be on (ire; but they \veresoon undeceived, and now. beheld
with astonishment a large black inverted cone, terminating
nearly in a point, and in which they perceived very plainly, as
they afterwards said, a whivling spiral motion, whilst a rumbling
noise like thunder was heard at a distance. By the description*
which those people gave of it, the middle of the cone appeared
nearly twenty feet in diameter. After passing the river, it
ascended slowly and majestically in a N. E. direction ; and
nothing coming within the limits of its electric powers, until it
came over Snenton, it there first began its devastation, taking
the thatch from several barns and cottages, and tearing up some
apple trees by the roots, one of which was four feet in circum-
VOL. IV. — NO. 1-13.
are upon a narrow scale, if we except the Castle gate
and the High Pavement. The Castle rises on a bold
rock on the town, where it was founded by William
the Conqueror, and its government conferred on
William Peverel. In the reign of Edward the
Third, it was considered so strong, as to be a secure
residence for the Queen-mother and the earl of
March ; and it was by stratagem only that the
youthful monarch was able to procure access in
order to check the arrogance of the favourite.
It was afterwards much enlarged by Edward the
Fourth, particularly with an immense tower, said
to have been a stately and magnificent fabric of
stone ; to which Richard the Third added a tower,
or so much enlarged and strengthened that built by
his brother, as to be the reputed founder of it, and
of this the site may still be ascertained. During the
civil wars, it was occupied merely as a fortress ; and,
by order of Cromwell, 'it was so far demolished as
to render it unserviceable for war. After the Re-
storation, the Duke of Buckingham claimed it in
right of his mother ; but soon after sold it to the
Duke of Newcastle, who, in the year 1674, and at
the advanced age of 82, began to clear away the
whole of the ancient work, and build the present
mansion, which he lived to see about three feet above
the ground; and dying in 1676, it was finished ac-
cording to his plan about three years afterwards. —
The passage, now called Mftrtimer's hole, leading1
from the court of the old castle, to the level at the
bottom ef the rock, evidently was not the secret
passage mentioned by historians ; for that is a vault
seven feet high and six wide with broad steps the
whole way down cut in the rock, though now almost
entirely worn away, and upwards of 107 yards in
length. Mr. Stretton, struck with some particulars
which he had heard, determined to ascertain the
ference, yet was broken short off near the ground, and the
body and branches carried several yards. A barn near 90 feet
long was levelled with the ground ; the adjoining house was
unroofed, and otherwise much shattered ; a sycamore in the
yard, which measured nearly six feet in circumference, was torn
up ; in short, nothing could resist the impetuosity of its action ;
and the rain tailing heavily at the time, joined to the roaring
noise of the spout, and aided by the novelty of the phenomenon,
produced amongst the spectators a scene of terror and confusion
not easily to be described. In a tavern in the outskirts of the
village, it tore off-part of the roof, whilst the people within
were almost all of them seized with a painful sensation in the
bead, which lasted some hours: and the spout in passing over
•he adjoining close where a number of people were collected,
t being the usual statute tor hiring servants, afforded rather a
ludicrous scene, wherein hucksters, stalls, baskets, &c. were all
hrown into confusion, and some of the people hurled with
jreat violence against the hedge, but happily without any seri-
ous accident. One boy indeed, about 14 years of age, is said
,o have been actually carried over the hedge into an adjoining
field, but without being injured. Some Hashes of light were
observed in its passing the fields ; and as the cloud passed over
the hill, opposite to the tavern, the spout was observed tn con-
ract and expand alternately, as if it had beeu attracted, and
repelled, by some extraneous force. It continued in all about
twenty minutes.
* fact;
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
fact; and with considerable difficulty, he discovered !
a secret entrance, from the side of this vault, which
led into a narrow winding passage into the body of
the rock, and seemed to direct itself towards the
present terrace, but was entirely filled up at the
tipper end. After removing' the gravel and soil from
that part of the terrace at the east end of the pre-
sent building, and as near as possible to the site of
the ancient keep, he was enabled to enter the pas-
sage from above, and, 'by a careful comparison with
the plan of the Castle drawn in 1617, and some other
documents, it was ascertained to have originally led
into the keep which contained the state apartments.
This then was the secret passage which the governor
alone knew, and of which Mortimer and the queen
had no suspicion. All doubts and conjectures are
therefore completely cleared up by this investigation.
The passage is again partly closed up below ; on the
level of the terrace it is secured and gravelled over ;
but the spot is marked, so as to shew in tlie clearest
manner its connection with the ancient buildings, as
laid down in Smithspn's plan. The cavern in which
the king of Scots is said to have been confined was
at the other end of the castle, and was in fact nothing
more than a complete range of cellars dug out of
the rock.
The present structure is a very large building, on
a rustic basement which supports an ornamented
front of the Corinthian order, with a grand double
ilight of steps leading to the principal range of apart-
ments. Over the door of the north east front, is an
equestrian statue of the founder, who was so deter-
mined on its erection that he tied up a considerable
estate by his will for that express purpose. The
statue is carved out of one solid block of stone
brought from Donnington in Leicestershire, and
executed by an artist of the name of Wilson. The
other sides of the building are handsome, but not
so highly ornamented, with a handsome terrace sur-
rounding the whole, and an arcade on the south side.
This has long been a favourite promenade, and is
very delightful in a summer evening, i'rom the ex-
tensiveness and variety of the prospects. The
apartments in the interior were once very fine ; but
they have long been neglected.
The park is but small, containing only 130 acres,
in a very neglected state. It has no deer, and but
very few trees. The most remarkable object in the
park is a range of caves, or Papist holes, as they
are vulgarly called, supposed to have belonged to
an abbey or monastery, built by William Peverel.
They stand some distance west of the castle, in the
face of a cliff near the banks of the Lene. — At the
upper end of the park, adjoining the Derby road,
are the barracks, a spacious range of brick buildings,
erected by government in 179^-93.
When Charles the First resolved to raise an army
against the parliament, he appointed Nottingham as
the spot where his standard should be raised, which
is said to have been first hoisted on one of the towers
•f the old castle, but afterwards removed to the
Standard Hill, which is just without the old wall on
the north side, and situated on part of the Castle
Hill. The spot is still pointed out, though its name
has since been changed to that of Nevil's Close,
having been the property for many years of a family
of that name.
Throsby states, that the passage over the Leen
(or Lene) into Nottingham, was made between
twenty and thirty years ago, very commodious, and
an ornament to the town. It is so at the present
moment ; but, since that period, the bridge has
been repaired, and greatly improved. The Trent
bridge is supposed to have been anciently called
Heathbethe bridge. There was a bridge built-bere
by Edward the Elder, which remained in part till
1683, when it was almost destroyed by the ice.
The corporation then erected the bridge of stone,
consisting of twenty arches.
This town has three parishes; St. Mary's; St.
Peter's ; and St. Nicholas's ; each of which has its
church ; and there is also the extra-parochial cha-
pel of St. James, built a few years ago on part
ef the castle ground. — St. Mary's is the largest
parish, and contains the principal church, the anti-
quity of which is carried back by some to the Saxon
times. It is in the collegiate style, in form of a
cross, with a fine tower in the centre, of the Gothic
of Henry the Seventh's reign. The monuments in
the church have once been numerous. In the south
aisle is our Lady's chapel, which contains the tomb
of the first and second Earls of Clare, who died at
the beginning and middle of the seventeenth cen-
tury ; and opposite to this, on the north side, is the
Chapel of All Saints, the burial-place of the Plum-
tre family. In this latter chapel is a particularly
line window. The present elegant and fine toned
organ was erected in 1777, by Snetzler. — St. Peter's
Church is a handsome edifice, with a lofty spire, near
the market-place. It displays some memorials of
Saxon architecture ; much of Gothic ; and a consi-
derable portion of modern additions. Whilst dig-
ging a vault about a century ago, the workmen dis-
covered the remains of John de Plumtre, the foun-
der of the hospital at the bridge, who, with his bro-
ther, desired by will to be buried in the chapel of
All Saints in this church. Here is a good ring of
bells, the seventh of which was given to the church
by Margery Doubleday, a washerwoman, in 1544,
with twenty shillings per annum to the sexton, for
the ringing of it every morning at four o'clock, in
order to rouse all future ladies of the suds to their
labours of purification. — St. Nicholas's Church was
pulled down in the civil wars, by order of Colonel
Hutchinson. The reason assigned for pulling it
clown, was its vicinity to the castle, which would
have rendered it beneficial to a besieging army in
case of an attack. The present edifice of brick,
ornamented with stone corners, was erected in 1678,
and has since been much enlarged and ornamented.
Among the charities, is a chance bequest of Anthony
Walker, a. wandering beggar, who left two cottages
and
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
35
and six acres of ground at Matlock to the parish in
which he should die, which happened to be this of
St. Nicholas. — St. James's Church, or chapel, was
in ancient times a chapel, which was granted by
Edward the Second to the friars Carmelites, to
whose monastery it adjoined.
Here were formerly several religious foundations.
The Grey Friars, in the Broadmarsh, near the cas-
tle, was founded by Henry the Third in 1250. It
is now the site of a brewery. — The White Friars, or
Carmelites, in St. Nicholas's parish, was founded by
Reginald Lord Grey de Wilton, and Sir John Shir-
ley, Knt. — The House of St. Johns' belonging to the
knights of Jerusalem, stood on the eastern side of
the town.— St. Leonard's Hospital of Lepers, was
also on the eastern side. St. Mary's Cell was founded
in the reign of Henry the Third for two monks in-
the chapel of St. Mary in the rock under the castle.
St. Sepulchre's was a brotherhood in the reign of
Henry the Third ; and a College of Secular Priests
was once existing in the castle.
Amongst the dissenting places of worship, the
High Pavement Meeting, which is spacious, light,
and airy, is for the Presbyterians ; the Castlegate
Meeting is for Calvinists. The General Baptists,
Baptizing Calvinists, Quakers, Wesleyans, and Ro-
man Catholics, have each a meeting-house.
Plumtre's Hospital was founded by John Plum-
tre, in the reign of Richard the Second. He ob-
tained the king's leave to erect an hospital at the
bridge end for two chaplains, one to be master,
and thirteen poor old widows, to the honour of the
blessed Virgin. The pensioners receive fifteen shil-
lings each per month, a ton of coals and a new gown
per annum. The presentation is still in the Plum-
tre family. Collins's Hospital, in Friar Lane, was
founded by the will of Mr. Abel Collin in 1704, for
the reception of twenty-four poor men and women,
each having two comfortable apartments and two
shillings per week, with a ton and a half of coals
per annum. — Willoughby's Hospital, in the Fisher-
gate ; Gregory's Hospital, in Houndsgate ; Wool-
ley's Beadhouse in Becklane ; Handley's Hospital
in Stoney Street ; Bilby's Alms Houses in Coal-pit
Lane; Labourers' Hospital on Toll-huuse Hill;
Warsrtrgate Hospital, &c. afford relief to upwards
of seventy poor and infirm individuals. — The Work-
houses, in number equal to the parishes, are all upon
a very commodious plan.
The General Infirmary is a spacious, and indeed
elegant building, and noble institution. The- first
stone was laid on ihe 12th of Feb. 17-81, with a series
of silver coins of the present reign, and a brass plate,
inscribed — " General Hospital near Nottingham ;
open to the Sick and Poor of any Country. The
Corporation gave the ground for the said Hospital."
The building consists of a centre, two advancing
wings, and two ends ; it has thirteen windows in a
range, and is two stories high ; and from the south
east front a most extensive prospect of the vale of
Belvoir presents itself. It is most airily situated on
all sides, and is surrounded with pleasant walks and
gardens; for which the Duke of Newcastle benevo-
lently gave some ground in addition to that pre-
sented by the corporation.
It has been observed that this hospital may boast
of two things : first, of being an eleemosynary asy-
lum to the indigent and impotent ; and, secondly,
that it is built upon the spot, or near to it, on which
Charles the First fixed his royal standard. — The
Lunatic Asylum for paupers, and for those who
can pay for admission, was completed under the
act of Parliament, and opened on the 12th of Fe-
bruary, 1812.
In the free grammar school, founded in 1513, by
Agnes Mellors, the widow of a wealthy bell-founder,
60 boys are taught English, writing, arithmetic,
Greek, and Latin, gratis. An excellent charity-
school; in St. Mary's parish, maintains 50 boys and
girls, who 'are instructed in religion, and in Eng-
lish reading. Another, in St. Mary's parish, edu-
cates 30 poor children ; and another, supported by
a private society, has been established for the edu-
cation of 16. The Protestant dissenters support,
one for the education of the children of their own
persuasion, who are clothed and plainly educated ;
and here are several Sunday schools, one of the
establishment, and'others of dissenters.
The County Hall is a very commodious and
handsome edifice, erected in 1770, on the High
Pavement, in the vicinity of St. Mary's church.
The ground on which it stands, was expressly ex-
cepted from the jurisdiction of the town, by the
charter of Henry the Sixth. The hall is ornament-
ed with some old standards of the Duke of King-
ston's light horse, in the rebellion of 17-15, and with
pictures of their present Majesties, given by the
Earl of Manvers. — The Town-Hall is a large build-
ing three stories high, with the Town Prison on the
ground- floor, and a large flight of steps at one end,
leading to the first-floor, commodiously and hand-
somely fitted up.- — -The County Prison, formerly
under the County Hall, is now behind it. This
gaol is clean and airy ; and under excellent modern
regulations. — The Town and County Gaol is also
as commodious as circumstances wi,1! admit. There
is a total separation of felons and debtors ; and
there is a commodious bath. — The Town Bridewell,
in St. John's Street, has been much improved. .
The Market Place, which has long been admired,
is one of the most spacious in the kingdom, sur-
rounded with excellent houses, and having every
accommodation.
The New Exchange, at the east, end of the Mar-
ket-Place, is a handsome brick building, of four
stories, erected by the corporation, in the early part
of the last century. It is 123 feet in length, and
the front is supported by a range of stone pillars,
forming a spacious open parade, with the shambles
partly under, and partly behind it. It was intend-
ed to ornament the front witii the statues of George
the First, and the then Prince and Princess of
Wales ;
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
Wales; but the niches remain untenanted. There
is a well executed figure of Justice on the top. The
upper apartments are airy and spacious, and neatly
fitted up for public purposes. There has been, for
some time, a subscription news-room fitted up in
one of them.
Here are several mills for spinning and twisting
silk and cotton ; silk millsj worked by horses ; lace
•workers ; stocking weavers ; a white lead work ; a
foundery for cast iron ware from the pigs brought
from Colebrook dale ; dying and bleach works ;
British lace, by frame- work ; breweries ; malt-
houses ; tanneries, &c.
In former times, the bouses were of wood and
plaister, and the roofs were thatched with straw or
veeds. The first tiled house in Nottingham, was
one in the Long Row, which had been the Unicorn
Inn, and which had its new roof put on, in 1503.
The oldest brick house was the Green Dragon, a
public-house in the Long Row, of the date of 1615.
Spine slight improvements took place during the
civil wars ; but it was not till alter the Restoration,
tbut the increase of manufactures produced a con-
siderable improvement in the style of building. —
Thurland Hall is a good specimen of the elegance
of those days. At present, however, it seems to
contain only two-thirds of the original plan, consist-
ing only of a centre and one wing. — Plumtre's
House is of a more modern date, and has been
much, and generally admired, for its very light and
elegant front, in the Italian style. It stands on St.
Mary's hill, and is a great ornament to that part of
the town.
The wells, in Nottingham, like the cellars, are
often of the depth of 100 feet, and the whole de-
scent through a body of rock ; but a great part of
the water is supplied by water-works.
The Theatre is a plain building in Mary Gate,
\ery judiciously fitted up. — The Riding School of
the yeomanry cavalry, at the top of Castle Gate, is
frequently the scene of equestrian and other itine-
rant exhibitions. The annual races for the King's
plate take place here, in July. Formerly the
course was lour miles, but now only two miles,
round : it is on the north side of the town, to the
left of the Mansfield road, and is said to be one of
the best in England. The race-stand is an elegant
building of two stories in height. The upper part
is appropriated for the company during the heats,
and the lower apartments are fitted up for refresh-
ments of various kinds.
The public walks, in the neighbourhood, are very
numerous. One favourite walk is to St. Anne's well,
about two miles distant. The well is covered by an
arched stone roof, of rude workmanship ; and has
been formiM'ly used as a cold bath. The house of
entertaininent is near the well, surrounded by a few
trees, which add much t» the beauty of the spot.
The story of this place having been a sequestered
haunt oi Robin Hood, is probably a fable ; and as
for the cap, and part of his chair, pretended to be
shewn, it would be absurd to place any dependence
upon their authenticity. Bronie, who made a tour,
in 1700, says, " Strangers are placed in the chair,
a cap put on their heads, &c. when they receive the
freedom :" — in short, it is nothing more than a se-
cond edition of the horns at Highgate. Dering
considers the whole as the artifice of some former
publican, bringing great numbers to spend their
money in holiday times ; he adds, for at those times,
great numbers of young men bring their sweet-
hearts to this well, and give them a treat ; and the
girls think themselves ill used, if they have not
been saluted, by their lovers, in Robin Hood's
chair ;" — About a furlong from the well, was the
Shepherd's race, a maze or labyrinth cut in the turf,
on the summit of a gentle hill ; but recent iucjo-
sures have destroyed every vestige of it. Stukely
thinks it to have been Roman ; others suppose it to
have been made by the priests of St. Anne's cha-
pel, for the sake of exercise.
The adjoining village of 'Sneinton is rural ; and,
in some measure, romantic. It has a number of
pleasant villas and cottages, and has long been fa-
mous for a race of dairy people, who make a very
agreeable kind of soft summer cheese. Great part of
the village consists of habitations within the rock,
many of which have, staircases that lead up to gar-
dens on the top, and some of them hanging on
shelves on its sides. It is extremely curious to see
the perpendicular face of the rock with doors and
windows in tiers, and the inhabitants peeping out
from their dens like the inmates of another world.
The coffee-houses and ale-houses, cut out of the
rock, are the common resort of the holiday folks.
Nottingham was anciently governed by two bai-
liff's, coroners, and a common -council ; who were
empowered, by Edward the First, to choose a
mayor. Henry the Sixth made it a county of it-
sell'; and it has now seven wards, with each an al-
dermau, out of whom the mayor is always chosen.
These wards are Chapel-ward, on the western side
of the town; Castle-ward, in the vicinity of the
castle; Market-ward, including the market-place,
and the Long Row and Lanes tp the north of it ;
North-ward, which embraces the north-east divi-
sion of the town ; Bridge-ward, between St. Mary's
and the Lene, and the lanes and streets to the east- '
ward; Middle-ward,* which is very small, to the
east of Market-ward, and between Gridle Smith-
gate, and Fletcher-gate ; and Monthall-ward to
the south-east of the latter, and containing the Low,
and part of the High Pavements. Each alderman,
thougli possessing a peculiar jurisdiction over, is
not obliged to reside in his ward ; for, in fact, his
jurisdiction may be said, as a justice of the peace,
to extend to the whole town. At present, the cor-
poration consists of a mayor, six aldermen, a re-
corder, two sheriffs, two coroners, two chamber-
lains, and a common-council composed of 24 bur-
gesses,' 18 of whom are chosen by the burgesses at
large, but must have served the office of sheriff,
and
NOTTINGH AMSI1IR E.
37
and are the senior council, whilst the remaining six
are chosen the same way from the body at large,
and from the junior council. These, however, have
equal rights, and equal votes, except that the ma-
gistracy is filled ii|> from the senior body. The
mayor and corporation, freeholders of 40j. per an-
num, eldest sons of freemen hy birth, younger sons
of freemen, if they have served a seven years' ap-
prenticeship any where, and freemen's apprentices,
have each a parliamentary vote.*
NUTHALL.] — At this village, five miles N. W.
from Nottingham, stands Nuthall Temple, the seat
of the Hon. Henry Sedley, formerly Vcrnon, but
who took this name in consequence of his marriage
with the only daughter of the late Sir Charles Sed-
ley, Bart. It is seated on an extensive plain, and
has a spacious paddock connected with it. The
house is a square, with two low wings, and a hand-
some portico in front, consisting of six lofty pillars,
with a neat pediment ; and a light ballustraed range
of steps. The roof is high, with a Jolly domein the
centre, surrounded with an airy ballustrade. The
original Rotunda of Paliadio, of which this house is
a copy, is the celebrated Villa Capra near Vicenza
in Italy.
OLLERTON.] — The little market-town of Ollerton,
adjoining which are some hop-grounds, is 19 miles
N.N. E7 from Nottingham, and 138J N.N.W. from
London.
ORDSALL.] — This village, If mile S. from East
Retford, is also noted for its hop-grounds.
OWTHORPE.] — See Tollerton.
OXTON.] — See Newslead.
PLEASF.LY. — See Mansfield.
PAPPLEWICK.] — See Newstead.
RADCLIFFE.] — Radcliffe-upon-Soar is 8{ miles
S. W. by S. and Radcliffe-upon-Trent, 5i E. by S.
from Nottingham. The latter is remarkable for its
romantic scenery, standing upon a lofty cliff on the
south bank of the Trent. The village is extensive,
and the inhabitants are chiefly engaged in the hosiery
manufactory. The only monument of note, iu the
church, is a wooden figure of Stephen Ratelifte the
founder, which must be of very ancient date. — The
former-named village was once a place of some con-
sequence. The whole of the ancient manor-house,
however, has been pulled down, except a part turned
into a farm-house, and its offices. A modern seat
called Radcliffe Lodge, is the residence of T. Boul-
ton, Esq. Here is a free school for six poor child-
ren. In the old decaying church is the following
epitaph on Robert Smith, who was born in 1701
and died in 178-2 :
," Fifty-five years it was and something more,
Clerk of this parish, he the office bore;
* Amongst the distinguished nativts of this town, was John
Plough, son of Christopher, and nephew to John P. rector of
St. Peter's. He became a zealous preacher in the time of Ed-
ward the Sixth ; but being obliged to fly, on the accession of
Mary, he went to reside at Basil, and tliere wrote an Apology
"or the Protestants, in answer to a book against the Encash
Protestants, by one Miles Hogeanl,of London, hosier ; a Trea-
VOL. IV. — NO. 144.
And in that space, 'tis awful to declare,
Two Generations buried by him were !"
RADFORD, WOLLATON, TROWELL, and STAPLE-
FORD.]— At Radford, one mile W. by N. from Not-
tingham, are coal-pits, whence the coals are dug
out in large masses ; and it is said that they possess
the inflammable principle in a greater proportion
than any others.
The village of Wollston, about two miles farther
to the VV. has an interesting old church, with some
monuments in good preservation. One, to Richard
Willoughby, Esq. and his wife, who died in the
loth century, resembles an ancient fire-place in a
Gothic hall ; and, in the centre, is a large grating,
insiile of which lies the representation of a skeleton
on the floor. A monument of Henry Willoughby.
in armour, has two female figures on one side, which
lie in a line, and are just his length. lie is in the
attitude of prayer; and the loxver part of the altar
contains lour figures, two of which are sojis, in
armour, and two daughters in the dress of the time.
Three Gothic arches in the body of the tomb shew
a statue of a corpse in grave clothes. — -The village
is quite rural. Near it are some extensive coal pits.
—Between the Bramcote Hills (near which is a
modern built house, of John Longdou, Esq. called
Bramcote House) on the brow of a rising ground,
is a curious ami conspicuous object, called the
Hemlockstone. It is an insulated rugged mass of
rock, or reddish sandstone, upwards of thirty feet
high, an;l consitini>- of very thin lamina? dipping to
the west. Stukely is of opinion, that it is the
remnant of a quarry, the stone of which bus been
dug, or cut, from around it.
The park-gate of Wollaton Hall is a handsome
elevation of stone, with a neat lodge, and light iron
railing. The approach to the house is through a
noble winding avenue of lime-trees, nearly a mile
in length. The park is extensive, and well stocked
with deer, hares, &c. It also contains spacious
sheets of water, supplied with a variety of fish, and
enlivened by swans and other aquatic birds. The
house, which stands on a knoll, and exhibits a most
magnificent appearance, is of tlio fashion of Eliza-
beth's time, in the Italian st)le, but of Gothic
arrangement. It is built of freestone, which came
from Ancaster in Lincolnshire, in exchange, for pit
coal from the estate. Sir Francis Willoughby de-
signed the plan, and built the house. — The hall is a
lofty and spacious apartment, on a plan and arrange-
ment strictly Gothic, but fitted up and ornamented
in the Italian style. It has an elegant flat ceiling,
supported by oaken brackets of light and open work-
tise against the Mitred Man in the Popish Kingdom ; and, the
Sound of the Doleful Trumpet.
Gilbert Wakefield was also a native of this town, being born
in the Parsonage Mouse of St. Nicholas, of which parish his
father was rector, on the 22d of Feb. 1756.
Henry Kirk White, a youth of extraordinary precocious ta-
lent, who died a few years ago, was likewise a name of Not-
tingham.
K
manship
38
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
manship ; at the upper end is a gallery, and the
screen is supported by Doric pillars. Here are some
family portraits, and other paintings. — The saloon
is an elegant and airy apartment, containing some
good pictures. From the windows there is a most
enchanting prospect of the pleasure grounds, and
their various ornaments of buildings, &c. — The
principal staircase is elegantly painted in fresco. In
the centre is a Roman sacrifice to Apollo, in which
the portraits of several oFthe family are introduced.
The ceil ing represents Heaven, with a full assembly
of the Gods ; and Prometheus is seen stealing the
sacred spark. On the left side of the staircase, he is
represented animating the figure, the story is here
remarkably well told, and the surprise mixed with
joy, wonder, and gratitude, is strongly marked in
the countenance of the animated statue. On the
right side, Prometheus is seen chained to the rock
by Vulcan, whilst Mercury gives the orders, and the
whole Croupe are surrounded by nympLs, graces,
&c. — The dining room up stairs has two magnifi-
cent glasses, and some capital family pictures. The
drawing-room, plain but elegant, also contains seve-
ral pictures. — The billiard-room, which is well _
adapted for its purpose, has a lew good paintings.
Over the fire place, is what is called the original of
the Earl of Straffbrd, and his secretary, the night
before his execution. At one end of the room, is a
large piece of fruit, flowers, game, vegetables, &c.
— The secondary staircase is ornamented with some
good landscape and other paintings. — The upper
room, or ball-room, which rises above the centre of
the roof, contains some curious ancient arms, some
family pictures, a very strange one of Susannah
and the Elders, an antique cabinet of Queen Eliza-
beth's time, &c. — In two of the turrets are neat
rooms, to which the approach is from the roof of the
house, whence there is a most delightful and exten-
sive prospect of the well wooded park and gardens,
in which the water and bridge have a very fine
effect. — The library, a long room, wainscotted in
imitation of oak, has a good selection of books.
Here is an ancient folio missal, highly illuminated ;
also an ancient service book of Wollaton church,
bought from the last Catholic rector, for ten marks,
containing the whole service set for chanting in the
ancient manner. — The modern flower, and kitchen
garden, &c. are at some distance. In the grounds
is a curious summer-house in the grotto style, pan-
nelled and ceiled with looking-glasses, and orna-
mented with paintings and shell-work. Under it is
a water-house, formed completely in the grotesque,
with shell and rock work.
Trowell, 5{ miles W. from Nottingham, is a
scattered village. The tower of the church is a
very line object. The windows of the chancel con-
tain many fragments of armorial glass. Some of
the ancient stalls remain, and an antique and capa-
cious font.
Stapleford Hall, the seat of the Right Hon. Admi-
ral Sir John Borlase Warren, Bart, and K. B. is
situated close to the village of Stapleford, 5J miles
W. S. W. from Nottingham. It stands low, with a
handsome lawn in front, tastefully surrounded with
ornamented plantations. The house, which is in a
plain style, was rebuilt about the year 1797.
RAMPTON.] — This village, 6{ miles E. S. E. from
East Retford, has been in possession of the maternal
ancestors of the family of Eyre, ever since the Con-
quest. The old mansion-house was pulled down
about a century ago, except a very curious gateway
highly ornamented, which has some armorial bear-
ings iu pretty good preservation. In the church are
many memorials of the Stanhope, Babyngton, and
Eyre families.
RETFORD.] — The cheerful and populous mar-
ket and borough town of Retford, is seated on the
river Idle, 29 miles N. N. E. from Nottingham, and
145 N. by W. from London. Its name is supposed
to have originated from an ancient ford aver the
river, at a place where the soil consisted of a reddish
coloured clay, of which a considerable quantity is
still found in the vicinity. Correctly speaking, it
consists of two towns and two parishes, East and
West Retford, from their situations on each side of
the river ; but their extreme nearness renders them,
for all local purposes, but as one, being united by a
very substantial, and not inelegant bridge. — The
church of East Retford, called the Corporation
church, is a neat Gothic edifice, in high condition
on the outside, but not so well in the interior. It has
a handsome square tower, and its nave and two side
aisles are well lighted, and on a commodious plan.
The chancel is small and rather dark. Its altar-piece,
which represents the Last Supper, was given about
a century ago by a gentleman resident in the town.
— Sloswick Hospital, built some years ago by a per-
son of that name for four men, was rebuilt in 1806
by the corporation. The free-school, endowed by
Edward the Sixth, is near the church. Here is an
alins-liouse for twelve poor women. — The town hall,
built about fifty years ago, is a plain, yet handsome,
and commodious edifice. Here are held the sessions
both for town and district ; and beneath the large
room, are the shambles, extremely clr.in and con-
venient.— The trade of Retford was formerly much
in barley for malting ; but Worksop has taken away
great part of it. Its manufactures at present con-
sist of sail-cloth, hats, a mill for candle wick, and a
paper mill. The worsted -mill, attempted some years
ago by Major Cartwright, the parliamentary refor-
mer, no longer exists. — In 1799, an Agricultural
Society was formed here under the auspices of Colo-
nel Eyre, the Marquis of Tichfield, (now Duke of
Portland,) Viscount Newark, &c. About a mile
from the town is a well of extremely cold water,
called St. John's Well. It was famous for many
cures in the early part of the last century.
West Retford has an ancient church, with a spire
upon a square tower, and some old monumental
stones. — Dorrel's Hospital, in this parish, was found-
ed in 1666 by John Dorrel, M.D. for ten men, but the
trustees
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
59
trustees have since added accommodation for six
more, each having 10/. per annum, with clothing,
coals, part of a garden, orchard, &c. — The heavy
flood of 1795, rose to the height of three feet
in the market place, tore up the pavement in several
parts, and actually destroyed some houses. Since
the Chesterfield canal was finished, West Rctford
lias progressively flourished. — West Retford Hall,
in its immediate vicinity, is a seat of the Emerson
family. An extensive lawn, watered by a gentle
stream, and highly ornamented with thriving groups
of trees and shrubs, lies before its principal front,
and though lying on a flat, the home views are
pleasing, and extensive.
Retford corporation has long been in possession
of much landed property, consisting of hop planta-
tions, &c. Formerly they had a power both of hang-
ing and transporting at this place ; but that jurisdic-
tion has been removed to the county town. The
elective franchise is in the bailiffs, aldermen, and
freemen ; the latter of whom are indefinite, and not
obliged to be resident : the patrimonial right, how-
ever, inherited by the eldest son, must depend upon
his local nativity. The modes of acquiring the free-
dom, independent of inheritance, nre by servitude of
seven years' apprenticeship to a freeman, within the
limits of the borough : or by redemption, which is
by the gift of the bailiffs and aldermen.
Proceeding from Retford towards Bawtry, half
a mile beyond the two mile stone, is a cross road
which leads to Sutton, a populous village, the tower
of whose venerable little church is pleasingly backed
by the swelling hills towards Mattersy. The parish
is called " Sutton cum Lound ;" and Lound, com-
monly called, though corruptly, " Lound in the
Morning" is a hamlet near to it. — Blacow, or Bacca
Hill, next presents itself, a gently rising eminence,
topped with a picturesque farm-house and offices in
the. style of an Italian villa, erected by Jonathan
Acklom, Esq. of Wiseton Hall. In this neighbour-
hood are the remains of many Danish and Saxon
antiquities. Bacca is said to signify a burying
ground, in the old Danish, which is exemplified by
the circular range of barrows on the north front of
the hill ; some of them clumped with firs ; and others
nearly levelled. A large tumulus is said to have
been here not many years ago ; this, however, is
gone, but it is most likely that the hill has been
jioth an encampment and a burying place. In the
valley also, to the northward, are some slight ves-
tiges of earthen mounds, which the tradition of the
neighbourhood refers to the same origin.
REMPSTONE.]— This agreeable village, 10.] miles
S. from Nottingham, has two good hunting seats
belonging to J. Goodere, and W. G. Williams,
Esqrs. The ancient church was St. Peter's in the
rushes, about half a mile from the village ; in which
was an old chapel long in disuse : the present church,
standing in the village, was consecrated in 1773,
and built out of the ruins of these two edifices.
Thorpe in the Clods, and Corlingstock, or Costook,
places of little consequence, are in this neighbour-
hood.
RUDDINGTON.] — This considerable village, 4|
miles S. from Nottingham, was formerly a chapelry
to Flawford, the ancient church of which, in the
Saxon style, had a lofty spire steeple and many
curious monuments with cross-legged figures ; but
having been long neglected, and become so ruinous
as to be in danger of falling, a license was obtained
from the archbishop in 1773, to pull it down. The
materials were taken to mend the roads, build
bridges, erect pig-sties, &c. — Here is a respectable
free-school founded by James Peacock, citizen of
London in 1641 ; and here also was formerly u col-
lege founded by William Babyngton, Esq. by license
of King Henry the Sixth, for a warden and four
chaplains, which he endowed with revenues valued
at 30/. Every Sunday here is a dole of bread to the
poor who attend divine service.
RUFFORO] — At Ruffbrd, or Rugford-on-the-
Mann, two miles S. S. W. from Ollerton, stands
Ruffbrd Abbey, an immense edifice, erected upon,
and engrafted into, the remains of the ancient monas-
tic building. Its situation is extremely sequestered,
and the entrance front is so completely embowered
in a grove' of elm and beech, as to preserve much of
the original character of the building. The ancient
Cistercian' abbey was founded here in 1148, by
Gilbert de Gaunt, Earl of Lincoln, for a colony of
monks whom he brought from Rivaulx abbey in
Yorkshire. At the Dissolution, its site and the
greatest part of the church lands were granted to
George Earl of Shrewsbury ; from whom, by mar-
riage with the Savilles, of Barrowt»y in Lincolnshire,
it came to that family. In the time of Sir George
Saville, it was in all its splendour, but coming by
an heiress to the Scarborough family, to a younger
branch of which it must always belong, it is now
the property of the lion, and Rev. Lumley Saville,
who, residing at Edwinstow, has left Ruffbrd almost
in an unfinished state, with the exception of a nume-
rous and valuable collection of paintings. — On ap-
proaching the entrance front, we ascend some steps
over an area which surrounds the house, and gives
light to the offices in the under ground story ; we then
enter a large hall altered to its present state in the
reign of Queen Elizabeth, and with its lofty ceiling,
high raised screen, and brick floor, marking the taste
of that period. Here are some ancient portraits,
and other pictures. — The brown dining room, a
handsome apartment, contains, among many paint-
ings, a very fine 'dead Christ,' by candlelight; foui*
correspondent pictures of arches surmounted with
saints, angels, and virgins ; ;\ curious landscape, with
a representation of an Italian wedding ; a town on
fire, by moonlight ; &c. — In the billiard room is a
portrait of Buckhorse, who some years ago, was
well known for his readiness to engage in boxing
matches. — The drawing room is hung with handsome
tapestry. — The long gallery, 114 feet long, and 36 •
broad, contains many valuable portraits, besides
other
40
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
other paintings. — An apartment is next shewn called
" the Prince of Wales's bed-room," His Royal
Highness having slept here some years ago. — In
a suuill room on this floor were formerly a settee
and some chairs, worked by an aunt, of the late
baronet, from the prints of the Harlot's Progress. —
In the attic story, is an immense number of rooms,
in which are various paintings. The most exquisite
are, a Drunkard ; a Dawn of morning ; a Magdalen ;
a Girl reading by candle-light ; a fine head of a Boy
reading, in claep study ; Jedediah Buxton, a most
extraordinary head ; a portrait of Anne Bullen, on
ivood, &c. — In the great drawing room, below, is a
line portrait of the lute baroirt't, with a map before
him ; also three views of Riche abbey ; and a fine
piece of wild boar and dogs, by Schneider. The
two greatest curiosities amongst the paintings in this
mansion are a Dutch painting of a fiddler and
grotipe, the other an old woman with flowers, the
painter unknown, but in the most exquisite style of
high finishing.
Tin- gardens and grounds are in the best state;
and the plantations of useful timber which took place,
under the auspices of the late Sir George Saville,
are rururkably fine and extensive.
ScREvr-TON."] — This place, 8j miles S.W. by S.
fnm N"u-irk, is remarkable as the birth-place and
resir.'M, e of Dr. Thoroton, the earliest topographer
ol tins county. In Carcolston, near to this, is a
building erected by the Dr. but now in ruins. At
Screveton, was the beautiful house of Richard Whal-
Itjy, Esq. whose ancestor married the daughter and
heir of one Leek, or Leake, about the time of Henry
the seventh, who was owner thereof. The manor
then came to the Thorotous, and is still their pro-
perty. Thomas Thoroton, Esq. a descendant of the
Dqctor, resides here. The church contains a curi-
ous old font, in high preservation, and several an-
cient monuments of the Whalley family.
ScROOBvand HODSACK.] — The village of Scrooby,
once an archiepiscopal residence, is 1| mile S. from
Bawtry. The archbishops of York had free warren
here as early as the 17th of Edward the Second ;
and in Queen Elizabeth's reign this palace was con-
sidered excellent in itself, more capacious than that
of Southwell, and more commodious for provision.
In the early part of the last century, the p;irk re-
mained ; but Archbishop Sandys having demised it
to his son Sir Samuel Sandys, the house became
neglected, and nothing remains but some small part
incorporated into a farm-house. In the garden is
an old mulberry-tree, said to have been planted by
Wolsey. — Tlte village contains a few farm-houses;
and the church, once handsome, but now decayed,
possesses nothing of its ancient grandeur except its
lofty spire.
At Hodsack, 5 miles N.N.E. from Worksop, was
once a large house belonging to the Cliftons ; and
there is still a curious brick gateway, and a lodge-
house, the residence of Mr. Spencer.
SERBY.} — gee Blythe.
At Shelford, 6 miles E.N.E. from
Nottingham, was an Austin priory, built by Ralph
llanselyn in the time of Henry the Second ; the site
of which at the Dissolution was granted to Michael
Stanhope, ancestor of the Chesterfield family, the
present possessors. An ancient mansion of the family
here, was burnt down in the civil wars, having been
u garrison for King Charles the First. Colonel
Stanhope, son of the first Earl of Chesterfield, who
was governor, was sh,in when it was taken by the
Parliamentary troops. The family made some re-
pairs of that part left standing, and it has now the
appearance of the ancient manor-houses of that
period. It is inhabited by a farmer. The church
contains many monuments of the Stanhope family.
Some of the earlier generations of this family built
and endowed in the village an almshouse, with a
chapel attaciied to it, for six poor men. To each
is assigned a. house, a garden, and orchard ; also an
allowance of coals, two shillings per week, and a
cap and coat every year. These, however, are now
reduced to four, of whom one is from Shelford pa-
rish, another from Gedling, and two chosen by the
incumbent of Bingham. A whimsical and puzzling
inscription, on four sides of a long square stone in
the church-yard, is to be read the west side first,
and then the south, east, and north sides from line to
line.
SHERWOOD.] — The forest of Sherwood embraces a
large portion of this county. According to Cainden,
" Sherwood" signified the ' clear,' or the ' famous'
forest, anciently thick set with trees, whose entan-
gled branches were so twisted together, that they
hardly left room for a single person to pass." Here
is still sufficient woodland scenery in existence, to
give a pretty accurate idea of what was once a
1'orest life. Gilpin remarks, that this forest was for-
merly the frequent scene of royal amusement. As
early as the time of Henry the Second, Mansfield
was the general residence of the court upon these
occasions This forest wus also the retreat of the
illustrious Robin Hood, who, with his associates,
laid the whole country under contribution. This
forest, if it do not possess what the landscape gar-
dener would term beautiful, has every variety of
sylvan scenery, consisting of pasture tracts, of woody
country intermixed with pasturage, and in many
places with cultivated enclosures. It is not, how-
ever, in any one district, that all these varieties can
be seen. — The forest was anciently divided into, or
rather known by the names of, Thorney Wood, and
High Forest ; the first of which, although by much
the smallest, contained nineteen towns or villages,
amongst which Nottingham was included ; and the
High Forest is described as abounding with fine
stately oaks, and being entirely free from underwood.
The first time in which we find this forest particu-
larly mentioned was in the reign of Henry the Se-
cond. It appears by an inquisition held at Notting-
ham in that reign, that the Archbishop of York had
a right, or a custom, of hunting in the forest, nine
days
NOTTINGHAMSH IRE.
n
days in every year ; three at Christmas, three at
Easter, and three at Whitsuntide; and also that the
archbishop and his canons, and lira men, had here
their proper foresters, and aeryes of hawks, and
pannage. According to Thoroton, Sherwood Fo-
rest extends into the Hundreds of Broxton, Thur-
garton, and Bassetlaw. The old Forest Books
contain a copy of a charter made by King John,
before his coining to the crown, and whilst Earl of
Morteyn, to Matilda de Caux and Ralph Fitzstephen
her husband, and to their heirs, of all the liberties
and i'rt'c customs which any of the ancestors of the
said Maud (lords of Lnxtnn) held at any time in
Nottinghamshire or Derbyshire, th'at is, all the forest
of Nottingham and Derbyshires, as their ancestors
ever held the same. It afterwards came to John
Birking, as heir-general to Matilda de Caux ; and,
in 122(5, was in the possession of his son. This line
failing, it descended to the family of Everingham ;
and that family having lost their rights by forfeiture,
in the reign of Edward the First, it came to the
crown, since which time it has come generally under
the civil jurisdiction of the sheriffs of the county, and
its forest jurisdiction has been granted to various in-
dividuals, as special marks of royal favour.* — The
extent of the forest, from north to south, is about
twenty-five miles, and its breadth from seven to nine.
Its present state was ably delineated by the late
Major Rooke, who observes that it is the only forest
that now remains under the superintendance of the
chief justice in Eyre, north of Trent, or which now
belongs to the crown in that district. The -forest
officers consist of a Lord Warden, Who holds his
office by letters patent from the crown, during plea-
sure ; at present the Duke of Newcastle : a bow-
bearer and ranger, appointed by the lord warden
during pleasure ; at present, Lord Byron ; and four
verdurers elected by the freeholders for life ; who
have each a tree out of the king's hays of Birkland
and Bilhagh, and two guineas to each venturer at-
tending the inclosure of a break. There are also a
* Its manners and customs at that period are illustrative of
the times, as recorded in an inquisition taken before Geoffrey
de Langley, the king's justice in Eyre north of Trent. By llm
it appears that the chief keeper ought to have three deputy keep-
ers over three districts in order to attack all trespassers, and
present them at the attachment before the verdurers. In the
rirst keeping, which lay between the rivers Lene and Dover-
heck, he was to have one forester riding, with a page and
two foresters on foot ; two verdurers; and two agisters. This
keeping contained the three hays ot Beskwood, Lindeby, and
Willay. The high forest formed the second keeping ; and here
were two foresters riding, with two pages and two foresters on
foot; here aiso were two verderers, and two agisters. This
keeping also included the two hays of Birkland and Billahay,
with the pa k of Clipstone, which were to be under the care of
two verdurers and two agisters. The third keeping, Rumwoode,
was to have owe forester on foot ; and two woodward*, one at
Carbiivton, and the other at Budbv ; also two verdarers, and
two agisters. It was further found that the chief keeper ought
also to have a page bearing bis bow through all the forest to
gather chiminage, a fee for the formation and preservation o!
the roads.
»Oi.. IV. — NO. 1J4.
steward ; nine keepers, appointed by the rerdnrers
during pleasure, with each a salary of twenty shil-
lings paid by the lord warden out of a fee farm rent
from Nottingham castle ; and two sworn woodwards
for Sutton and Carleton. — Thorney Wood Chace,
being a branch of the forest, was granted by Queen
Elizabeth, in 1599, to John Stanhope, Esq. as
hereditary keeper, which is now enjoyed by the earl
of Chesterfield. The surveyor general of the woods
has also a jurisdiction over this forest as far as re- •
gards the wood, and timber of the crown. — Lowe
states, that the whole soil of the forest is understood
t9 have been granted by the crown to different lords
of manors, reserving only, in forest language, the
vert and venison, or trees and deer. The latter were
in former times very numerous, and all of the red
kind, with the exception of Thorney wood chace,
where they were the fallow deer. Of the ancient
woodland, the principal remains are to be found in
the hays of Birkland and Bilhagh, which form an
open wood of large ancient oaks, free from under-
wood (except in one part where some natural birch
is growing,) but most of them in a, state of decay.
The extent of this tract is-about fifteen hundred acres;
and in a survey about 30 years ago, they contained
only 10,117 trees, valued at little more than 17,000/.
Part of these hays is in Thoresby park. Clumber
park contains the remains of two venerable woods,
called Clumber and Ilardwick woods ; and there are
some other ancient districts of small extent consist-
ing of Harlow wood, Thieves wood, and some scat-
tered portions of the Mansfield woods, which, how-
ever, can boast of very little valuable timber. So
late as the beginning of the last century Sherwood
was full of trees, and it was then one continued wood
from Mansfield to Nottingham. Since that time,
the forest has been pretty much cleared ; but efforts
have been some time making to adorn this ancient
forest, and large plantations have been made, in.
honour of ouV splendid naval victories, during the
laie warf.
SNEINTON.
f Of RMiin Hood, whom tradition records as having made
this forest his principal haunt, lit'.le is -known to certainty,
though his exploits have been celebrated in ballard in every
succeeding age. As early as 1594 his story seems to have be-
come a favourite subject for the drama; for in that year was
printed " a pastoral comedy of Robin Hood and Little John."
In 16->4 we meet with " Robin Hood's pastoral May Games;"
and in 1730 Robi.i Hood is performed as an opera at Barlholb-
mew Fair in London. Shortly after rame out " Robin Hood
and his Crew of Soldiers," and" in 1751 a musical entertainment
under the name of " Robin Hood " came out at Drnry-lane :
besides which we have had " Robin Hood, or Sherwood
Forest," of a recent date ; all founded on the original Garland.
Robin's legendary biography seems made up of a tissue of ex-
aggerations. It tells us that his father was a forester, and could
send an arrow to a distance of two north country miles ; and
it describes his mother as niece to the famous Guy, Earl of
Warwick. She \s stated to have had a brother, " a notable
Squire" who lived at Gatnewell Hill in this county, a;ul who
was anxious that Robin when a youth, should live with him.
This, however, was prevented by a fondness tor field sports,
and for a rambling life, which led him to Tutbury, in Slafford-
L shire,
42
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
SNEINTON.] — See Nottingham.
SOUTHWELL, UPTON, AND WINCKBURNE.] — The
market town of Southwell lies to the westward of
Newark, on the opposite side of the river, 14| miles
N.E. from Nottingham, and 138 N.N.W. from Lon-
don. It occupies a gentle eminence, embosomed in
trees, and in the centre of an amphitheatre of swelling
hills, the bases of which are washed by th<? Greet,
celebrated for its red trout. The town is reduced
in size of late years ; but the contiguous hamlets of
East and West Thorpe, appearing to form part of
it, it looks like a pretty large, but much scattered
country town. It is divided into two parts ; the
" Btirgage" or " Burridge," and the Prebendage ;
the former comprehending the space between the
market place and the river Greet, whilst in the other
is the Collegiate church and its property. — That this
shire, not far from his birth place of Loxley, where he married
a shepherdess under the poetical name of Ciorinda, having been
charmed by her dexterous manner of killing a buck in the
forest. At this early period of his life, his exploits against the
foresters must have been frequent ; for we are told that he killed
fifteen of them, all of whom were buried in one row in one of
the church-yards at Nottingham. His fame was now so great
that he had raised a force o! nearly one hundred followers ; and
in a short time, his robberies and frolics, his kindness and charity
to the poor, became the general theme of conversation, and
produced a kind of friendly feeling towards him, although an
outlaw. He is next described as going to London, and being
received at court, where he appeared in a scarlet dress, whilst
lu's men were clad in Lincoln green ; all of them wearing black
hats and white feathers. Soon after this, he is staled to have
fought a desperate battle with Little John, or John Little, who
was seven feet high, in which however he was worsted ; but
Little John notwithstanding joined the troop, and became his
faithful friend. After this the Garland states that a monk whom
he sent for to let him blood, was the cause of his death, when
all his bowmen fled to different countries to escape that justice
which they could not otherwise avoid, now that their chief was
gone. The author of the " Anecdotes of Archery," gives us
some particulars. He describes him as at the head of two
hundred strong, resolute men, and expert archers, ranging the
forest of Sherwood, but not remaining there always. Fuller
says that his principal residence was in Sherwood forest, though
he had another haunt near the sea, in the north riding of York-
shire, where Robin Hood's bay still bears his name ; and Charl-
ton, in his " History of Whitby," observes that Robin, when
closely pursued by the civil or military power, found it neces-
sary to leave his usual haunts, retreated across the moors to
Whitby in Yorkshire, where he always had in readiness some
small fishing vessels, and in those putting off to sea, he looked
upon himself as quite secure, and held the whole power of the
English nation at defiance. He was outlawed, and a price set
upon his head ; and several stratagems were put in practice to
ensnare him but in vain. At length the force sent against him
was so powerful thai he sought shelter and protection in the
priory of Kirklees in Yorkshire, the prioress of which was his
near relative. Here it is said old age, disappointment, anil
violent fatigue, brought on a disease which required venesec-
tion, when the monk who was called to perform the operation,
either through ignorance or design, wounded an artery, and he1
bled to death. Convinced that his end was approaching, and
wishing to mark the spot (or his la-t repose, he called for his
bow, and letting fly two arrows, the lirst fell into the river
Calder, but the second falling into the park, pointed out the
place of sepulture. His death is said to have t,:ken nlnce on
the eve of Christmas day 1247 ; and on his temb, in Kirklees
park, the following epitaph, which still remains, is said to have
been inscribed by the prioress: —
was a Roman station, possibly the Ad Pontem,
here can be no doubt. On the Burridge hill are
he remains of a Roman fosse, evidently the Burgus,
or camp ; and many old Roman bricks have been
bund iu the ruins of the prebendal houses.
The extreme length of the minster of " Our I/ady"
is 306 feet ; its breadth 59 ; and the length of the
ross aisle from north to south is 121 feet. All his-
torians have agreed in attributing its first foundation
to Paulinus, archbishop of York, who was sent by
Pope Gregory, in 627. Until the Dissolution, this
church had been encouraged and endowed by the
liberality of both monarchs and nobles. In Edward
the Sixth's reign the chapter was dissolved and
granted to the Duke of Northumberland, but re-
tored by Mary to the archbishop and chapter, in
whose hands the property still remains. It suffered
" Hear undernead dis laitl Stean,
Laz Robert Earl of Huntingtun ;
Nea arcir ver az hie sa geud,
And pipl kauld im Robin Heaud :
Liek ullas as hi an iz men
Vil England nivrsee agen.
"Obitt: 24: kal. December: 1247."
A person who visited this tomb, in the year 1817, informs us,
that, for its preservation, it is surrounded by a four-feet-high
stone wall, and upon that a five-feet-high very strong cast iron
railing. There are seven yew trees adjoining.
By a learned genealogical research which has been made, Robin
Hood appears to have been actually entitled to the earldom of
Huntingdon. The pedigree is made to run in the following
manner : " Richard Fitz Gilbert or de Clare, earl of Brion in
Normandy, married Alice daughter of Waltheof who was earl
of Huntingdon in 1068 in right of his wife Judith niece to Wil-
liam the Conqueror. He had a son by this Alice, Robert Fitz
Gilbert, whose daughter Rojsia having married Gilbert de
Gaunt, had a daughter Maud wife of Ralph Fitz Goth, or Oeth,
a Norman, and lord of Kyme in Lincolnshire. Of this mar-
riage was William Fitz Oeth, who was brought up b.y Robert
de Vere earl of Oxford, and married a relative of his patron,
the daughter of Paganel Beauchamp and Roisia de Vere of the
Oxford family. Robert Fitz Oetli was the son by this match,
and he certainly could thus prove a dccsent from the fust Earl
of Huntingdon, though his claim to the title might not be so
certain ; and yet it must be acknowledged that he was at least
one of the representatives of Waltheof the first earl, by his
daughter Alice; a claim of some importance when it is recol-
lected that Waltheof leaving no son, the title of Huntingdon,
after his death, was carried by another daughter Maud to her
husband Simon St. Liz, who was th-e second earl, but left no
issue; and Maud marrying to her second husband David,
prince, and afterwards king, of Scotland, he became third earl
ot Huntingdon in right ot his marriage ; but this line failed in
John Le Scot who was the tenth Earl of Huntingdon, but died
without issue in 1237, from which time until 1337, when the
title was conferred by a new grant to William de Clinton, it
appears to have been considered as extinct." — Throsby observes
that, under these circumstances, the title may actually have
been claimed by Robert Fitz Oeth ; and he says, it has been
supposed that he might have been driven to his predatory course
of life, in consequence of the troubled slate ot Henry the Ild.'s
reign, or perhaps adopted it, being dissatisfied with the refusal
of disclaims, particularly as his father William Fitz Oethmight
have been implicated in the consequences of (he rebellion of
the king's eldest son, the prince Henry ; for in the rebellion
the Earl of Ferrers took the prince's side, and lie was lord of
Loxley, which has been said to be the birth place of Robin
Hood.
much
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
much in the civil wars, and it has not yet recovered
the damages done by Crom well's troops, who con-
verted it into a stable for their horses, broke down
the monuments, and ransacked the graves of the
dead for lead and other valuables. It was also da-
maged considerably by being set on fire by lightning
on the 5th of Nov. 1711. Generally speaking, this
mass of building has sustained little alteration, ex-
cept in some of the windows, whose Saxon arches
have given place to the Gothic pointed ones of the
14th century. There is a tradition, that the most
ancient part, which is pure Saxon, was built in the
short reign of Harold. Upon the whole, there is
no doubt that, with the exception of St. Augustine's
at Canterbury, founded in 605, this is the oldest
building now in existence in England. On the north
side, is a Gothic gateway with reducing parapets ;
and, in the western wall, is a Saxon gateway, ap-
parently coeval with the earlier part of the building.
The west front consists of two lofty square towers,
divided into seven stories, and decorated with orna-
mented windows, and arched recesses : between the
towers are the western entrance and the great win-
dow, insertions of a later date than the original
edifice. The north side is strictly Saxon. On en-
tering at the western door, the visitor is struck with
the similarity of the interior to Rochester Cathedral.
— Afterwards all the richness and elegance of the
meridian pride of Gothic architecture of the 14th
century, are displayed in the screen at the entrance
of the choir, which is justly held as one of the gems
of ecclesiastical decoration in this part of the north.
— The exterior of the chapter house does not boast
of a profusion of ornament, though its battlements
and buttresses are light and well finished, and in a
good taste. Its interior indeed is much better ; and
the arch of entrance is superior perhaps to any thing
of the kind in the kingdom. The roof is of stone
work ; light, simple, and elegant. The windows
are fine specimens of the later Gothic. — Carter, in
his work on Ancient Sculpture, considers the ancient
hieroglyphical sculpture, (of a man drawing the
teeth of a lion, accompanied by a lamb, an angel,
and a dragon, over the door- way leading to the bel-
frey,) to allude ty David whilst keeping his father's
sheep ; but Mr. Rastall considers it as typical of
Christ, and supposes it to be the most ancient spe-
cimen of Saxon sculpture in existence in England.
— Tne tombs are not numerous. Most worthy' of
notice is that of Archbishop Sandys within the rails
near to the altar. It is a large alabaster altar tomb
with his effigies reclining upon it, and having ontlie
front his widow ;\nd nine children kneeling. — In the
church-yard, wis a college for the chauntry priests :
the vicarage, which possessed some curious carvings,
•was taken down in 1780. From the wells in this
church-yard, and others, the modem name of the
town is said to have arisen. On the right of the
cloysti-rs was the Holy well; the Lady's well was also
within the consecrated ground, but filled up in con-
sequence of a clergyman being drowned in it in a
dark night. St. Catharine's Well, in West-thorpe,
is celebrated for rheumatic cures. The south-well,
called the Lord's well, is about half a mile S. E. from
the town. — In, and about the church, many disco-
veries have been made in digging. Peek, in his
Desiderata Curiosa, gives an account of a body being
found in the south aisle dressed in cloth of silver
tissue; with leather boots, a wand by his side, and
on his breast something like a silver cup with an
acorn or bunch of leaves on its top. His skull
was thin and transparent ; his teeth were all sound ;
and even the stitching of the boots was in preserva-
tion, though the leather tore like paper.
The ecclesiastical establishment here now consists of
sixteen prebendaries, or canons holdingprebends, six
vicars choral, an organist, six singing men, six cho-
risters, and six boys as probationers, a register to the
chapter, a treasurer, auditor, verger, &e. Here also
are two annual synods, at which all the Nottingham-
shire clergy attend. — The civil government is distinct
from that of the county in general, and called the
" Soke of Southwell cum Scrooby." — Adjoining to
the church is a free-school. — Here are also two fel-
lowships and two scholarships in St. John's College,
Cambridge, to be presented by the master and fel-
lows of that college to such persons as they shall
think proper, who haveJbeen choristers of Southwell.
— The house appointed for the resident prebendary,
is a very handsome building at the east end of the
church. The residence is taken in regular rotation.
— The archbishop's palace, on the south side of the
Minster- yard, within what was once called the Little,
or New Park, was once an elegant building. The
site of the mansion still belongs to the see ; and, even
in ruins, it retains much of its ancient grandeur.
During the civils wars, it was complet ly gutted.
Throsby says that, in 1740. in clearing away the
vaults of tiiis palace, the workmen found the entire
skeleton of a man standing upright, with boots and
spurs on, and some part of his military arms lying
at his feet. Near to this was a skull with the head
of an axe in the clelt, with which it m;iy be supposed
this person was killed. This discovery gave addi-
tional credit to a tradition that a deserter or spy had
been taken up in Southwell, when Charles the First
was here, and that some of the soldiers lu.d thrust
him into a vault or well where In; lost his lilc.— »
The archiepiscopal parks, once four in number, have
been divided and enclosed since the destruction of
the palace. The lands of the see were solo during
the usurpation for about 5000/. During those times,
Charles the First was often here. His head quarters
were sometimes at the palace, and som. 'times, ut the
inn, particularly on the Oth of May 1H4H, when he
came here privately, and surrendered himself to ihe
Scotch commissioners. The upartinent in which
he dined that ilay is still in existence, and neaHy
in its original state. It is on the south side, or leU
hand of tiie gateway of the Saracen's Head, at the
upper part of the church-yard ; the remove I- of which
sign, some time ago, discovered the old one of the
King's
44
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
King's Arms cut in stone, which, being unfashion-
able in the days of republicanism, hail been super-
seded, or rather covered, by that which now exists.
•A little before the kind's death, this same apartment
was used by Cromwell when he was sent to oppose
the northern army.
The county bridewell, used as a prison for the
rarious manors belonging to (he archbishopric, was,
erected in 1656 ; and many additions were made in
1787. Its situation is airy and healthful, upon the
decline of a gentle hill, close to the Burgage Green.
Upton is a handsome village, 2| miles E. from
Southwell, with a small Gothic church, dedicated to
St. Peter. Throsby tells us that in his time, the
village contained just as many inhabitants as there
are dnys in the year ! In 1801, the number was 329 :
in 1811, only 3;25. A starch manufactory has been
some time established here.
Winckburne, the seat of P. Pegge Burncll, Esq.
in this neighbourhood, was anciently the property of
the priory of St. John of Jerusalem. The chapel
near the house contains several monuments of the
Buruells.
STANTON.] — See Tollerton.
STANFORD.] — The pleasant village of Stanford-
wpon-Soar, is 13 miles S. by W. from Nottingham.
In the church are several ancient monuments of the
Illingworths, and Lewises, once lords of the manor,
with the latter of whom the Dashwnod family are
connected by marriage. — Stanford Hall, the seat of
the Dashwoods, stands about a mile from the village,
on a gentle eminence, looking down upon a piece of
water, with an extensive paddock, and some thriving
plantations at tbe back of the house. Tlie house,
built nearly on the site of the old manorial edifice,
about fifty years ago, consists of a centre, of band-
some elevation, of three stories, and two wings. — The
dining room has some good family portraits, land-
scapes, &c. The library also contains some good
paintings. The drawing room is remarkable for its
fine view over the forest hills in Leicestershire.
STAPLEFORW.] — See RADFORD.
STAUNTON.] — See Newark.
STOKK.J — See Newark.
STRELLEY.] — The church, belonging to the little
village of Strdley, -If- miles W. N. W. from Not-
tingham, is kept particularly neat ; owing in a great
measure to the patron, who has presented an elegant
modern painted Vast window, of various scriptural
subjects. , Some of the old armorial glass is still in
good preservation, with an antique font. Here are
two old altar monuments in tbe chancel, and some
neat sepulchral memorials of the family of the pre-
sent lord of the manor, T. W. Edge, Esq. whose
seat, near the church, is a plain buildjng of three
stories in height, with a small projection in the centre
* Tills, in respect both to its size and tho dignity of its situ-
ation, deserves mention ; as it spreads a space of 90 feet from the
extremities of its opposite boughs. Kvelyn, in his Sylva, says
it covered a superficies of 707 square yards ; and these dimeii-
1
of the principal front, ornamented with a pediment.
The pleasure grounds are laid out in a good style.
SUTTON.] — For Sutton in Ashfield, see Mansfield.
— Sutton Bonnington, 12 miles S. W. by S. from
Nottingham, comprises two parishes, but offers
nothing remarkable. — Sutton upon Trent, 5J miles
S. E from Tuxford, is composed of scattered houses
on the banks of the river. The church has a slender
spire, on a tower of some elevation.
THORESBY.] — A little to the south of Clumber,
already described, is Thoresby Park, the seat of
Earl Manvers. The mansion stands very open, in
rather a low situation, nearly in the centre of the
park, and well backed with rising ground, thickly
planted. The old house having been burnt down
in 1745, and nothing saved but the family writ-
ings, plate, &c. its then possessor, the Duke of
Kingston, built the present edifice, which is rather
a comfortable house, than a magnificent seat. It
consists of a rustic stone basement, with two stories
of brickwork, and the principal front is ornamented
with a tetrastyle portico of the Ionic order, of a
beautiful stone. — The principal entrance is in the
basement, opening into the hall, which is slightly
ornamented with landscapes, engravings, &c. — The
Earl's dressing-room opens from the hail, and has
some family anil other portraits, sea-pieces, and me-
dallions.— The little drawing-room contains many
fine paintings ; and, in the dining-room, a very fine
Madona, and infant Jesus. The ascent to (he prin-
cipal story is by a double staircase in the centre of
the mansion. The octagonal drawing-room, which
has a very fine effect, viewed from the staircase, is
superbly, yet plainly, fitted up. It contains a por-
trait of Evelyn, the Duke of Kingston, and a well-
moulded bust of Pascal Paoli, the celebrated Cor-
siciin General. — The Admiral's gallery is low, and
plain ; but is hung with interesting sea-pieces. —
The Countess's dressing-room is elegant, comfort-
able, and commodious. It is hung with, handsome
drawings, landscapes, miniatures, &c. — The gar-
dens are very fine, part of them constructed by the
late. Duchess, in the German style, with arbours,
and treillaged : in the shrubbery, is a fine cascade.
The park, which is thirteen miles round, contains
several pieces of water.
At Shire Oaks, in this neighbourhood, so called
from an ancient tree of that name,* is a good Hall-
house, the seat of John Hevvett, Esq.
At Wallingwells, is the seat of Sir Thomas Wol-
laston White, Bart.
THORNEY.] — In the church of this village, 8^ miles
E. by N. from Tuxford, are monuments of the Ne-
ville family. Here is an agreeable seat of John
Neville, Esq. A large tract of low moors, often
flooded by rains, and said, in the Agricultural Sur-
sions, according to GJlpin's calculation, will produce an area
capable of covering a squadron of 233 horse. It stood on a
spot where Yorkshire, Nottinghamshire, and Derbyshire unite,
and spread its shade over a portion of each.
vey,
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
45
vey, to be the worst land which the editor had ever
seen, has been, reclaimed within the last five-and-
thirty years, by a good system of drainage, follow-
ed up by liming and manuring. — Bromlholme is in
this parish, but it contains only two or three houses.
It once, however, had a monastery.
THRUMPTON HALL ]— Thrumpton Hall, seven miles
S.VV. from Nottingham, is the seat of J. W. Em-
inerton, Esq. The mansion, which partakes much
of the style of the reign of James the First, is four
stories in height. The interior arrangements are
very elegant ; the grounds are neat and pleasing;
and the adjacent scenery is delightfully picturesque.
THURGARTON.] — The name of this place (3J miles
S. by W. from Southwell,) is said by (Install, to be
an abbreviation of " Thor's-garth-ton ;" and to have
been first Roman, and then Saxon. Ralph de Ayn-
court, about 1130, founded here a convent of the
order of St. Austin. The tenants of these lands,
after they came into the possession- of the monks,
were under some curious regulations ; amongst
which, was one, that " e\ery she native, as she took
a husband, or committed fornication, was to give for
the redemption of her blood, 5s. <ld. ; but, if the
daughter of a cottager, only half. The church,
once of considerable magnificence, is now dilapi-
dated. The ancient priory was pulled down by the
late Mr. Cooper, who, leaving only some small re-
mains of the foundation, now incorporated in the
cellars, built a plain modern house, called Thur-
garton Hall, of three stories high, upon its site.
The grounds are pleasingly diversified with wood
and water. — In Denthorpe, or Dunethorpe, in this
parish, the prior of Thurgarton, and the abbot of
Peterborough, agreed, that all the tenants were to
plough for the church three days in the year : " each
plough to have per day four loaves and four her-
rings. They were, likewise, two days and a half
in autumn, and to have their wonted meat once in
the day, and the second day likewise, if the abbot
would have them all day, otherwise to go away at
nine o'clock, without meat, &c.
TOLLERTON, STANT0N, OwTHORPE, &C.] At the
village of. Tollerton, 4| miles S.E. by S. from Not-
tingham, is Tollerton Hall, the seat of Pendoc
Neale Barry, Esq. The house is an imitation of
the Gothic, with towers, and turrets, and a clois-
ter, communicating with the church. The grounds
are extensive. The village is small, and the church
ancient ; but the parsonage is a comfortable and re-
spectable dwelling.
Cotgrave, Pltimtre, and several other pleasing
little villages, are in this neighbourhood ; as is Stan-
ton-on-the-Wolds, where are the remains of an an-
cient fosseway, in high preservation. At the Lodge-
upon-the- Wolds, in 1724, was an Inn, under a great
wood, upon the declension of a stiff clayey hill. —
Here the pavement upon the road is manifest, of
large blue flag stones, laid edgeways very carefully.
The ({narries whence they took them, are upon the
side of tlie hiH. This pavement, two feet broad or
VOL. iv. — NO. 144.
more, is still visible where not covered with dirt,
and gives a good idea of the ancient Roman roads.
About Owthorpe, particularly, it is so sunk in the
fosse, that an army might be marched without ob-
servation for many miles. — Owthorpe Hall, a vene-
rable pile, in a retired situation, was founded by
Colonel Julius Hntchinson, an active parliamentary
partizan, and some time governor of Nottingham
Castle. Though he satin judgment upon the king,
no very active means were taken to apprehend him at
the Restoration, and he seems to have lived secretly
at Owthorpe for some years, in which was a room
made for defence, with apertures to tire through iu
case of an attempt to take him. He was seized,
however, within a few yards of his own house, on his
way to the church, that stands within less than a
stone's throw of it, in the year 1663, at a period when
many were taken up for supposed treasonable offen-
ces ; some tried, and others imprisoned for life,
amongst the latter of whom was the Colonel. — The
house was recently occupied by a maiden lady, who
lived in retirement. It is large, and forms a square,
with handsome, lofty, and convenient apartments,
but with little ornameift. The present owner, by
purchase in 1773, is Sir G. S. Bromley, Bart.
TROWELL.] — See Radford.
Tux FORD.] — The market town of Tuxford, or
Tuxford-in-the-Clay, is 24 miles N. E. by N. from
Nottingham, and 138 N. by W. from London. The
town, which is but small, consists principally of inns
for the great resort to it as a thoroughfare. It is,
however, of more modern appearance than many
others in the county, having been burned in 1702 ;
yet much of what is rebuilt, consists of farm resi-
dences ; and there is scarcely any trade in the place,
except in hops, of which a considerable quantity is
raised in the vicinity. — The church consists of a nave
and side aisle, and has a spire with five good bells.
Amongst the ancient monuments, is a representation
of St: Laurence roasting on a gridiron; one man
is employed in blowing the fire, another turning
him with a pair of tongs, and a third looking on.
In the north porch, is a priest in (he attitude of
prayer ; in the north wall, is a very ancient figure of
a lady in a square head dress, and a hound at her
feet ; and opposite to her is an altar tomb with the
mutilated trunk of an armed knight. — Here was a
college founded by John de Longvillers, for five
priests, viz. three at Tuxford, and two at their own
conventual church, at Newstead priory, whose duty
should be to pray for his soul, &c.— Here is a Gram-
mar School, founded by Charles Read, Esq. who
endowed it with 50/. per annum for a master, and
40/. for teaching the children of the town, and the
sons of four decayed clergymen. The trustees for
this school are the mayor and aldermen of Newark,
with six of the neighbouring gentlemen.
UETON.] — See Southwell.
WALBECK.]— At Welbeck, 3| miles S. W. by S.
from Worksop, stands Welbeck Abbey, the seat of
the Duke of Portland, and the freehold of Sweyn,
M a Saxon,
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
a Saxon, before the Conquest. Thomas de Cukeney
built a castle at Cukeney, in which parish Welbeck
stands, and founded the Abbey of Welbeck, for
Prsemoiistratensian canons, from Newhouse, in Lei-
cestershire. The latter building he commenced in
the reign of Stephen, and completed in that of
Henry II. It was most munificently endowed, and
the abbot had the superiority of all the houses of
this order in the kingdom. At the Dissolution, when
its annual revenues were estimated at nearly 300/. it
was granted to Richard Walley, and afterwards
came to Sir Charles Cavendish, youngest son of the
celebrated Countess of Shrewsbury, by her marriage
with Sir William. Marrying the heiress of Lord
Ogle, his son succeeded to that barony, and became
afterwards Duke of Newcastle. Though the Duke
was very active during the civil wars on the side of
Charles, this estate escaped the fury of the Parlia-
mentarians. In other respects, however, he suf-
fered to the amount of nearly one million sterling.
His grand-daughter and heiress, Margaret, married
John Hollis, afterwards created Duke of Newcas-
tle ; but she left only a daughter who inherited the
estates, and marrying the Earl of Oxford, another
heiress, the only issue of this union, carried it to the
ancestor of the present Duke. — The park, which is
about eight miles round, contains several noble woods
of ancient and venerable oaks. — The Greendale
Oak, considered to be upwards of 700 years old, in
Evelyn's time was 33 feet in circumference at the
bottom ; the breadth of the boughs was 88 feet, and
they covered 676 square yards of ground. It is now
in a state of decay, being propped in several places :
in some parts capped with lead to protect it from
the wet; in others, secured by iron bars to hold its
limbs together; only one solitary branch evincing
marks of vegetation. A coach road, ten feet three
inches in height, was cut through it in 1724, the
width of which in (lie middle is six feet three inches.
In his youth, the late Duke won a considerable bet
by driving through it with a coach and six. The
tree, however, never contained any very great quan-
tity of timber. — Another oak, " the Duke's Walking
Stick," is in height, 1 1 1 feet six inches ; its solid
contents arc four hundred and forty feet, and its
weight is eleven tons. — " The Two Porters" received
their name from there having once been a gate be-
tween them ; their respective heights are 98 ami 88
feet ; and their circumference 38 and 34. — Near the
gate which goes in from Worksop, stands a tree
called " the Seven Sisters," from its consisting of
seven stems springing from one root in a perpendi-
cular direction. One of them, however, has been
broken off. Their height is 88 feet ; the circumfer-
ence of the common trunk close to the ground is
30 feet. Near this is a hollow tree, in circumference
20 feet nine inches, supposed to be 300 years old.
The plantations, which are upon a large scale,
have been rendered ornamental, and contain a fine
piece of water, occupying a winding valley, mean-
dering through the dark foliage of the surrounding
woods. The late duke, who made many other con-
siderable alterations and improvements, erected a
magnificent bridge of three arches, the centre one of
which was ninety feet in span ; but it fell down just
as it was finished. — In the Rein Deer Park, on the
west side of the lake, is a beautiful grove of large
majestic oaks, supposed to have stood upwards of
six hundred years.
The house, which has been much enlarged, though
on no regular plan, is magnificent. Very little re-
mains of the old abbey except the cellar arches, and
some of the interior walls. The present building
was begun in 1604, yet it has towers, turrets, bat-
tlements, &c. — The Equestrian duke of Newcastle,
as he has been termed, built a magnificent riding-
house here in 1623, and finished the stables in 1625.
The great stable is now one of the finest in the king-
dom, being 130 feet long by 40 broad, and contain-
ing 40 stalls.
Entering the hall, on one side is a small dressing-
room, which contains several portraits of the present
noble family, with other paintings ; also small bronzes
of horses, genuine antiques, &c. — The staircase has
a handsome Gothic ceiling, with Gothic doors, ,&c.
This leads to the small saloon, which contains many
valuable historical and family portraits, and other
paintings. In the drawing-room is some very superb
French plate glass. The breakfast-room contains a
good likeness of Archbishop Laud, &c. — Thedining-
room, 59 feet by 36, has an elegant coved ceiling.
The portraits consist of Mathew Prior, the poet ;
William Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle, the active
and loyal friend of the unhappy Charles ; the Earl
of StralFord, a whole length, by Vandyke, &c. —
The library, 44 feet by 30, is in the florid Gothic.
At one end is a handsome painting of an angel con-
templating a crucifix, surrounded by a glory. — The
vestibule presents a racR-ground at Newmarket, with
portraits of horses, dogs, &c. — A dressing-room is
extremely curious from the number of cabinets, fancy
pieces, &c. which it contains. — The duchess's dres-
sing-room, a very pleasing apartment, contains a
model of an antique head by Schiavonetti ; a small
figure of Charles the First, on horseback, copied
from Vandyke, and the horse done by Wootton ; the
Old Roman supping on turnips, and refusing the
bribes of the ambassadors of Persius ; Date Obolum
Belisario ; two Italian Landscapes, by P. Laura ; a
Saint fed by angels ; a curious ancient painting of
a lady ; Dutch Boors ; small original of Edward the
Sixth ; whole length of Queen Elizabeth, by Lucas
de Heere, on horseback ; Spanish gypsey singing
.to the guitar, &c. — The small dressing-room con-
tains a valuable portrait of Gertrude Pierpoint, who
married George Saville, Marquis of Halifax.— The
chapel has a comfortable gallery opening from this
floor : below it is fitted up like a country church,
with Gothic windows in leaden diamond squares.
WHATTON, AND WIVERTON.] — .Qf these places, the
former, 11| miles E. by S. from Nottingham, com-
prehends the chapelry of Aslacton. — Whatton church
stands
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
47
stands on a rising ground on (lie north side of the
village, and lias a lower at the angle formed by the
north aisle ami chancel. Against the north east
pillar is a white slab, with the figure of a man in
Hewing hair :uul gown, and a purse at his right side,
his hand on a cushion, and round him, on a ledge,
a black-letter inscription. It has several armorial
coats, and was raised in memory of the father of
Archbishop C winner, who was horn, in 1489, at As-
lacton. Tho manor, which came to the family by the
marriage with the heiress of the Aslactons, passed
by an heiress of Cranmcr to Molyneux, and is now
the property of the Pierpoint family. — The font is
deserving of notice ; and the monuments are vari-
ous. Of two arches in the north wall of the north
aisle, one is empty ; under the other is a priest with
curled hair, and his head resting on a double cushion.
In the middle of tiiis aisle, a cross-legged knight in
armour lies on a raised tomb, Sir Richard Whatton ;
and an altar-tomb with a knight in alabaster, one
of the family of Newmarch, is placed at the east end
of the south aisle, now a school-house. The style
of the church is of the time of the Edwards. — The
manor-house and grounds were recently the property
of Mr. Merriot. A modern farm-house occupies the
site. Some time as>o here were some curious relics
of the Cranmer family ; and here may still be traced
several moats, islands, and other remains of the
* The archbishop was born on Ihe second of July 1489 ; and,
having been placed at an early age under a private tutor, com-
pleted his sludies at Jesus College, Cambridge. He entered
into priests' or.lers, became a fellow of Ihe college, completed
his degree of D.D. and « as entrusted by Mr. Cressy, of Wall ham
Abbey, Essex, with the care of his two sons ; but the plague
breaking out in the university, Dr. Cranmer retired with his
pupils to their father's house. — At this period Henry the Eighth
came to Waltham Abbey, during the arrangements for his
divorce. Two of his ecclesiastical agents lodged in Mr. Cres-
sy's house, and were much gratified in finding a man of Cran-
mer's learning and undaunted spirit, not only approving the
measure as they did themselves, but inclined to enter on it more
boldly. Cranmer recommended that the sufferings of the king's
conscience should be referred, not to the pope and his dispens-
ing power, but to the word ot God and an assembly of divines ;
and also, that this should lake place in the English universities,
and not in the ecclesiastical courts ol any other nation ; adding,
that if the cause was once determined by the authority of scrip-
ture, the pope could not possiblj have power to overturn it. not
having authority to dispense with the word of God ! When
the king heard of I his opinion. " Aye" said he, " this man
hath the sow by the right ear." lie immediately sent for him, and
not only employe d him in the work at home, but in writingand
in embassies to the pope, and the different European princts,
until he had not only the consent of the English universities, but
of all the foreign powers. — On the death of Archbishop War-
ham, Cranmer was appointed to the metropolitan see ; was con-
sidered as the ecclesiastical head of the church of England,
without the interference of the pope's legate ; and was entrusted
with many civil commissions by Henry, whose favour he had
gained, by pronouncing the sentence of divorce against Catha-
rine, and by uniting him to Anna Boleyn. — When Henry as-
serted his supremacy in ecclesiastical affairs, Cranmer supported
him against the pope's claims ; he also aided in the Dissolution
of the monastic societies, and caused the Bible to be translated
into English, and a copy of it to be placed in every church
in the kingdom, — The appropriation of the revenues of Ihe
convents, for the establishment of free-schools, was a measure
pleasure grounds. — Of the ancient chapel of Aslac-
ton, part of the walls still remain, and belong to a
common ale-house.*
Wiverton Hall, built by the Chaworth family in
the reign of Henry the Sixth, in the castellated style,
was a garrison during the. civil wars. It is now in
ruins.
WU.FORD, CI.IFTON, CHILWELL, &c.] — The char-
ming village of Wili'ord, If mile S. by W. from
Nottingham, contains several neat villas. The church,
close to the Trent, is a handsome object, and com-
mands a pleasing view. The name is evidently a
contraction of Wilfrid's ford, as there is both a ford
and a ferry close by.— Wilford House is the seat of
John Smith Wright, Esq.
Turning from Wilford towards the bank oftheTrent,
we have a view of the steep cliff on which Clifton
Hall stands deeply embowered in groves of onk nnd
elm, nnd delightfully situated to command the most
extensive prospects over the Trent, the town of Not-
tingham, and an immense trnct of country extending
into all the surrounding counties. "Clilton Grove,
a long avenue forming the approach to the house,
about a mile in length, ;ind broad enough for a dozen
carriages to drive abreast, is entirely covered with
the green sward, and thickly sheltered with trees on
each side which preclude all distant, views, except
about the middle, where, a circular opening cut in
of his recommendation. He at length became so obnoxious to
the pope and his agents, that every means were taken to excite
the public discontent against him. The faction which opposes!
him brought charges against him in parliament, and Sir Jnhn
Gostwike ventured lo accuse him of preaching heresy at Sand-
wich in Kent. When the king was acquainted with this, "How
comes Gostwike," said he, " who dwells in Bedfordshire, or
Buckinghamshire, to In ar my lord of Canterbury preaching in
Kent ? Go !" added he to a gentleman of the privy chamber,
" and tell him, that if he does not go to the archbishop, and
reconcile himself to him, I will pluck his gosl'nv's feathers so,
that he shall never again have an heart to slander our metropo-
litan, or any other learned man." — On the accession of Edward,
he performed the coronation office; and was soon after appoint-
ed with other bishops to compose the homilies ; the act of par-
liament also for the common prayer took place through his re-
commendation and influence; but, having joined the party of
Lady Jane Grey, he was committed to the lower, and attainted
of high treason. For this, however, he obtained a pardon from
Mary, but was immediately after conveyed to Oxford, and con-
demned for heresy, for denying transubstanthuion, &c. After
condemnation, he was induced to sign a recantation ; but having
denied his error, and withdrawn that confession, he was con-
demned to the stake, at which he suffered on the 21st of March
1556. When tied to it, he was obliged to listen to the aspersions
of Dr. Cole ; but Cranmer replied, " I believe every word
and sentence taught by our Saviour Christ, his apostles, and the
prophets i.f the Old and New Testament ; but as to the pope,
[ refuse him as Christ's enemy, or Antichrist, with all his false
doctrines." So great was the sorrow for his recantation, and so
determined was his spirit at the last hour, that he calmly held
his right hand in the flames till it dropt oil, saying, " this hand
has offended " — It has been staled, that after his body Irad been
reduced to ashes, his heart was found entire, which by some
was considered as an argument in favour of his hearty lov/- of
the truth ; whilst others looked upon it as a proof of the here-
tical obduracy of that vital part, which would not yield even to
the argument of a blazing Catholic fire !
the
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
tbe foliage presents an almost magic prospect of
Nottingham castle, with the town anil part of the
surrounding scenery, like a living picture in a ver-
dant frame. Near the upper end of this avenue, the
cliff nearly overhangs the Trent. Here, tradition
says, the Clifton beauty, who was debauched and
murdered by her sweetheart, was hurled down the
precipice into her watery grave ; the place is still
shewn, and it has been long held in veneration by
lovers." — The mansion, which stands on a rock of
gypsum, interspersed with beautiful spars, was for-
merly in the antique style of the sixteenth century ;
but it has been much modernized, and in some parts
almost rebuilt. It contains many paintings, mostly
family portraits. — The gardens, which are on the
hill rising above the house, were originally laid out
in the ancient tasto with a regular series of slopes in
progressive height, connected by flights of stone
steps, and divided by cut yew hedges. After ascend-
ing these steps, the visitor found himself on a large
bowling-green, beyond which was a walk through a
•wood, leading to a summer-house in a commanding
situation. The fine terrace walk is still preserved.
— The village of Clifton, which lies on a flat, con-
tains a number of neat rural cottages shaded with
fine trees, and two or three pretty villas. The
church, close to the mansion, though ancient, is in
good preservation. Here are some fragments of
armorial glass, and many old brasses of the Cliftons,
lords of the manor. In the family vault, are depo-
sited several generations. — Here was anciently a
small cottage for a warden and two priests, dedi-
cated to the Holy Trinity ; begun by Sir Robert,
and completed by his son Sir Gervase Clifton, in the
time ef Edward the Fourth.*
At Chilwell, 4| miles S. W. by W. from Notting-
ham, was anciently a house of the Babyngtons.
WILLOUGHBY.] — Willoughby on the Wold, 11 £
miles S. S. 111. from Nottingham, is considered by
Horsley as an ancient Roman station, the l''emome-
1um so often mistaken for Margidiiitiim. The village
is extensive and rural. It was the scene of a bloody
contest in the days of Charles, an action having
taken place here at Willoughby field. A cross of
lofty construction stands in the centre of the village.
Its appearance gave such offence to the soldiery of
Cromwell, that they had tied ropes round it in order
to pull it down ; but their enthusiasm was so much
damped by some strong beer given to them by the
vicar, after he had made a long speech in defence of
its innocence, that it was permitted to remain un-
molested. In the church, is a stone, with .this in-
scription : — " Here lieth the body of Colonel Stan-
hope, who was slain in Willoughby field, in the
\
* The early opulence of the Clifton family, is particularly
noticed by- Peck in liis " Desiderata Cunosa," where lie men-
tions a curious wedding, in the year 153U ; at which there were
two oxen, two brawns, twelve swans, three quarters of wheat,
seven lambs, six welhers, seven calves, ten pigs eight cranes,
sixty couple of conies, three hh(U of wine, white, red, and
claret, and eight quarters of barley malt, &c. &c. &c. The
month of July, 1648, in the 24th year of his age,
being a soldier of King Charles the First." — A
table - monument, surrounded with battlements,
stands in the centre, with angels in niches ; on it
lies a Knight in armour, with a roll or wreath round
his helmet, and by his side his Lady -with a curious
mitred head-dress. A graceful monumental figure
of a lady, with a dog at her feel, is placed under
the south wall ; and, in the choir, under an arched
wall, with plain modern pillars supporting it in
front, is another Knight in warlike caparison.
At Willoughby Brook, between Willoughby and
Over - Broughton, is a tumulus, which marks the
vicinity of the Roman station. It is now called
Crossbill ; and there is an annual revel held upon it,
which is supposed to be founded on some tradi-
tionary festival of the Romans.
WINCKBURNE.] — See Southwell.
WINTHORPE.] — See Muskham.
WISETON.] — See Mattersey.
WIVERTON.] — See Whatton.
WOLLATON. — See Radford.
WOOOBOROUGH, AND BURTON JORZ.] — The church
of this cheerful and populous village, 6| miles N.E.
by N. from Nottingham, possesses many vestiges of
ancient magnificence, particularly in the windows of
the chancel, where some fragments of armorial glass
contain the intermarriages of the Strelleys. In the
chancel are some brasses for the family of Bain-
brigge, the present owners. The family seat is an
old plain hall, in which lately resided Mrs. Bain
brigge, a widow lady, who gave 1000/. to the Ge-
neral Hospital of Nottingham. Woodborough is
one of the prebends of Southwell. The neighbour-
ing village of Burton Jorz, upon the bank of the
Trent, belongs to the Chesterfield family. The
church contains several ancient tombs, &c. of the
families of Frecheville. Jorz, Roose, Stapleton, &c.
WORKSOP.] — The market-town of Worksop, 26$
miles N. from Nottingham, and 146| N.N.W. from
London, stands on the borders of the forest, nearly
in the midst of what was commonly called in the
vicinity, " the Dukery," from the circumstance of
there being no less than four principal seats of
Dukes, within the compass of a lew miles. Since
the death of the Duke of Kingston, however, there
are but three. — On the approach from Retlord, the
appearance of Worksop and Radford, lying in a ,
valley, overtopped by the magnificent double tower
of the church, and backed by swelling hills, finely
clothed with wood, is very striking. Its situation
is delightful, and there are more noblemen's seats
in its immediate vicinity than there are in any other
spot in the kingdom so distant from London. The
wine cost five guineas, the oxen thirty shillings each, pigs five-
pence, lambs one and five pence, wrlhers two and four pence,
the wheat eighteen shillings per quarter, malt foiirteen shillings
per quarter, and thete were as many wild fowl as cost a sum
equal to the two oxen. The wedding ring cost twelve shillings
and lour pence.
town
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
town is in general well built, and the streets well-
paved , the inns arc clean and comfortable ; and
much of the bustle of business enlivens it, being1 on
the post-road to Sheffield, and having the advan-
tage of the Chesterfield canal. It consists, indeed,
only of one long- street, and of another leading to
Radio rd ; but both these contain good bouses ; and
the whole place has an air of gentility not always to
be seen in hirger country towns. — Before «ue Con-
quest, this place was the property of Elsi, a Saxon
nobleman ; but he was obliged to yield it to Roger
de Busli, whose man Roger, became bis feudal te-
nant, and was succeeded by William de Lovetot.
After many generations it passed by the marriage of
an heiress, Matilda de Lovetot, to the family of
Furnival ; from them, tri the Nevills ; and, after-
wards, to the Talbots, who first became, on that
account, Barons of Furnival, afterwards Earls, and
Dukes of Shrewsbury. Gilbert, the first Earl of
Shrewsbury, was such a terror to France, as to be
extremely useful to Henry the Fifth, in his wars.
He built an immense mansion here, with a magni-
ficence in full accord with the splendour of his
family. The Talbot estates being divided amongst
co-heiresses, this portion came to the Howards,
Earls of Arundel, now Dukes of Norfolk ; and is
still held by them as tenants in chief of the crown,
for the service of a Knight's fee, with the privilege
of procuring a glove for the King's right hand at
his coronation, and of supporting that hand whilst
he holds the sceptre. — However, the glory of Work-
sop is its abbey church, which stands in the hamlet of
Radford, to which the stranger advances by a street
of half a mile in length. The abbey gate is of the
latest fashion of Gothic workmanship, with a pointed
roof, and the arch flat ; it has some florid windows
and niches of great beauty on the side next the
street. The statues on each side of the gateway are
gone, but there are still three over it; the gateway
itself has a flat ceiling of oak, with Gothic groins as
•supporters. The room above, which had been long
used as a school-house, is now in a ruinous state.
The gate was double, with a wicket. It led to the
monastery or priory, founded by William de Love-
tot, in the reign of Henry the First, for Augustine
canons. The first grant was confirmed by the
f King, and added to by Richard de Lovetot, and
Cecilia de Lovetot. Gerard de Furnival, at the
request of his wife, Matilda de Lovetot, granted for
the health of his soul, and his wife's, their ancestors,
and successors, pasture for forty head of cattle in
the park .at Worksop every year, from the close of
Easter to the least of St. Michael. The pious Ma-
tilda added to her husband's gift, a mark of yearly
reut out of her mill at Worksop, to be paid when
the monks were annually to celebrate the anniver-
sary of her husband. iSir Gerard further bequeath-
ed his body to be buried in this monastery.
The church of t'.ie monastery still remains. This,
though but the west end of the, priory church, has
an au^just ap^uarunee, from its two lofty towers,
VOL. iv. — jso. 144.
which strike the eye of the beholder with an im-
pression equal to those of Westminster abbey. —
The architecture was originally Saxon ; but, on the
outside, it is much mixed with the Gothic. The
whole is nearly in the cathedral form. The west
entrance is very grand, consisting of a Saxon arch,
with zig/ag ornaments ; and the towers over it,
have Saxon, Anglo-Norman, and Gothic windows,
in different gradations. — On the north side of the
edifice are a few fragments of walls, some of which
have been converted into small dwelling-houses ;
•and, in the meadows below it, many traces of foun-
dations have been discovered. A ruinous chape],
at the south-east corner, now used as a burying-
place by the Froggatt family, is highly deserving
the notice of the antiquary. — The church-yard con-
tains several old tombs. — On entering the church,
the visitor is struck with the antique appearance of
the body of it, which is 135 feet in length, and con -
sists of a nave and two side aisles ; the roof of the
nave is supported by eight pillars, alternately cylin-
drical and octangular, joined by Saxon arches, or-
namented with quatrefoils. Over tiiese, are two
alternate rows of windows, one over the arches, the
other over the intervals above the respective pillars.
The monuments, remarkable for their antiquity, are
principally of the families of Furnival and Lovetot.
— Gough notices two alabaster figures of a Knight,
in a pointed helmet, with a corolla round it, with
plated armour, and a saltire with a martlet in the
centre for difference on his surcoat : his belt stud-
ded ; his elbow and knee-pieces, trefoil pattern ; a
helmet under his head, with some beast's head for a
crest ; and a lion at his feet : also at his right hand,
a Lady in the subast reticulated head-dress, slender
face and neck, mantle and boddice, and plaited pet-
ticoat; and, under her head, a double cushion, with
angels. This is the monument of Thomas Nevill,
brother to Ralph, first Earl of Westmoreland ; he
married Joan, the heiress of these estates, and was
treasurer of England.
Upon the whole, every antiquary, and indeed
every person of taste, will find much to gratify his
curiosity in this place ; and the solemn antiquity *
of this venerable ruin, for such it is in part, appears
not the less from being contrasted with the cheerful
gaiety of Radford ; which, having some extensive
mailing-houses and mills, possesses an air of com-
fortable plenty extremely agreeable. — The market
at Worksop, which serves both places, is always
well-supplied.
The Duke of Norfolk's seat of Worksop manor,
stands in the centre of an extensive park, eight
miles in circumference, containing much fine timber.
The park entrance, which is not half a mile from the
town, on the Mansfield road, is a light airy gate-
way, yet possessing an appearance of antique gran-
deur. Here commences a long avenue, deeply
shaded by umbrageous oaks, and other spreading
trees. To the left, some fine lawus open at inter-
vals ; and, at some distance, is the castle farm, an
N extensive
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
extensive range of agricultural buildings, with a
Gothic front, a battlemeitteil parapet, and all its
appendages in imitation of an ancient edifice. It is
surrounded by a large tract of cultivated ground.
The park itself is naturally very line, having an ex-
tensive range of bills within its limits, sufficiently
high to bound the view from the house on one side,
and magnificently covered with woods. On the
side next the farm, an abrupt swell rises in the
boldest manner, tufted with wood, finely contrasting
with the cultivated scenery below, and presenting
from its summit a most extensive prospect over the
western part of the county. The trees in this park,
which once formed part of the forest of Sherwood,
are in general very large. There are some, men-
tioned by Evelyn, which will bear two square feet
of timber, at a height of 40 feet, so that each will
contain more than six solid tons of timber. One
tree in particular, was 180 feet from the extreme
ends of the opposite branches, covering more than
half an acre of ground. The avenue towards its
end affords some casual glimpses of the house itself,
•which, on turning round a wood, bursts at once
upon the view. A handsome gate leads into the
yard of offices separated from the front lawn by an
immense screen of light architecture with iron fold-
ing gates. — The house is justly celebrated for its
beauty, and for the surprising expedition employed
in its erection. People are struck with astonish-
ment, when told that what they see is only the fifth
part of the original design. It would, if finished,
be the largest house in England. It is, even now,
a master - piece in architecture. Payne was the
architect; but some of the most beautiful parts of
the edifice are attributed to the skill of a former
Duchess of Norfolk, who is said to have superin-
tended its erection. — The ancient structure was
burnt down, in 1761, by an accidental fire; and it
was estimated that the loss sustained in paintings,
furniture, antique statues, (many of which were of
the old Arundelian collection, and discovered, in
digging the foundation of some houses, in the
Strand in London, on the site of Arundel House)
and in the library, must have amounted to upwards
of 100,000/. The then duke afterwards began a
new house on a most magnificent plan ; and now
the present building, which is only one side of an
intended quadrangle, is not unfit for the residence
even of majesty itself. This quadrangle and two
interior courts would have completed the plan ;
but the execution of it was prevented by the sud-
den death of the heir ! The front, which is
finished, of a handsome white free-stone, is 318
feet in length, presenting a facade of lightness,
beauty, elegance, and grandeur : in the centre, a
portico makes a light projection, consisting of six
very striking Corinthian pillars resting on the rus-
tics, and supporting the tympanum and pediment.
Three handsome statues are placed upon the points
of the pediment ; and in its centre is an emblema- |
tical carving allusive to the family alliances. A j
light and airy ballustrade crowns the edifice from
the tympanum to the projecting part at the ends,
which mark the terminations in the style of wings,
and upon this are vases most gracefully placed. —
The front entrance is into a vestibule, with the stair-
case in front, and the grandest apartments to the
left. In the general plan of the house, the present
front, which is to the north, was designed for the
back front, and here are ten rooms below and twelve
above, with twenty-six in the attic story. On the
south are the two galleries, one used for breakfast-
ing, the other used as a billiard-room. The furni-
ture, portraits, and other decorations, are all in the
ancient style of magnificence, with hangings and
beds of crimson damask and sky blue velvet, with
the history of Joseph in Brussels tapestry, Indian
scenery in Gobelin work, and all the Howards, who
frown along the deserted galleries, some in armour,
some in whiskers, and those of a still later date in
their large wigs and square shoes. — The Breakfast
Parlour, hung with handsome Chinese paper, con-
tains a curious and well executed series of twenty
ancient engravings, of views and charts illustrative
of the defeat of the Spanish armada. These views
have the merit of being chronologically descriptive
of that event; they are also embellished with por-
traits.— The Front Hall, of noble proportions, con-
tains two antique busts, of undoubted originality :
a buck of a foreign breed stuffed, which was a great
favourite of the late duke, during its life ; and a
large coat of arms, cut in wood. — The Staircase is
large, its area being 37 feet by 25 ; the iron rails
are extremely light, and the whole has a handsome
appearance. Its walls present paintings in Chiaro
Scuro by Thomas de Bruyn, a Fleming. The
figures are in such high relief, or capital perspec-
tive, as to appear protruding from the canvas. —
Their design is to represent the arts and sciences.
In a Bed Room, 25 feet square, is next shewn the
bed on which his present Majesty was born at Nor-
folk House in London ; it is a silk damask, and in
good preservation. — A Dressing ROOIH contains a
number of good pictures : Mary Queen of Scots,
when young ; St. John, an impressive figure ; the
Nativity ; the Adoration ; two heads of the Buck-
ingham family ; two heads of Catharine and Arra-
gon, forming a very curious contrast, one taken
when she was only sixteen, the other at the age of
forty ; another Nativity ; Christ Scourged, &c. —
In this apartment the chairs and hangings are of
white satin damasked with birds and flowers ; and
the elegant chimney-piece of white marble, with nn
eagle pouncing on a twisted or apparently twisting
snake, is deserving of notice. In a neighbouring'
dressing-room is a picture of Lord Thomas Howard,
father of the duke who built the house. Another
elegant little Dressing Room contains an impres-
sive portrait of Thomas 'Duke of Norfolk, beheaded
in the reign of Queen Elizabeth ; the inside of a
Cathedral, apparently a production of the Spanish
school ; Earl and Countess of Arundel, by Van-
dyke;
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
51
dyke ; Mrs. Brockholes, sister to the late duke's
mother, &c. The Blue Velvet Bed Room, con-
tains a curious inlaid cabinet, and two good portraits
in armour. — The contiguous Dressing Room con-
tains a painting of the School of Athens, over the
•fire-place ; and a highly wrought Indian cabinet,
'ornamented with paintings of Chinese figures, each
covered with glass. — In the next Anlichamber, the
pictures are few, but excellent, particularly Cain
•and Abel by Vandyke ; the Transfiguration, by
Caracci ; half-length of Charles the First by Van-
dyke ; and the Dead Christ, " in which," observes
a re'cent visitor, " we know not what to admire the |
most, the meekness and resignation of the Virgin j
mother who is supporting the body, or the flexile
manner in which it reposes on her lap ; though evi-
dently dead, yet the body of the Redeemer still bears
the stamp of divinity ; incorruptibility seems marked
in every muscle ; and an enthusiastic mind might
conceive that it saw the vital spirits, which had left
the extremities, collecting round the heart, as if pre-
paring for a renewed and immortal circulation ; in
short, if this piece has a fault it is in its excellence,
for it appears rather to represent that moment when
approaching vivification began to shew itself, than
the sombre hour which passed when it was first taken
from the cross." — The Lady's Dressing Room is
hung with Brussels tapestry, representing four of
Raphael's Cartoons ; Paul and Barnabas at Lystra,
the Miraculous Draught of Fishes, the Death of
Ananias, and Christ delivering the key to Peter. A
single figure of St. Peter over the fireplace is clone
with much spirit. Here are also two fine Spanish
paintings. — In the Lady's Bed Chamber, is an ele-
gant portrait of Queen Henrietta Maria, and a
painting of St. Jerome in the Desart. — The Gentle-
man's Dressing Room has a very ancient head of
Christ, which alone would repay a visit to Worksop.
The portrait of Miss Blount, Lady Abbess at An-
twerp, is in this room. .Here are also, a Madona ;
some tolerable landscapes ; fruit and Hower pieces;
Henry, sixth Duke of Norfolk ; a capital piece, in
the style of Schneider, of a Sportsman reposing,
with a spirited horse and game, &c, — In the Library
are a portrait of a Roman Pontiff; and two whole ;
lengths of James the Second and his Queen. — In i
the next Dressing Room are Mary, Duchess of
Norfolk, sister to Miss Blount the abbess ; a good
sea-piece ; a family piece, &c — The Duke's Bed
Chamber contains Bishop Blaize suffering martyr-
dom.* Here is also a fanciful representation of the
* He was Bishop of Scbasta in Cappadocia in the second
and third centuries, and suffered deatli under Dioclesian by
decapitation, after being whipped and having his flesh torn
with iron combs; he has long been a personage of great im-
portance among the woollen manufacturers, who consider, him
as their patron saint, and carry him in all processions, as the
inventor of their wool orris.
f lie was both a soldier and a poet ; in his youth he became
enamoured of the fair Geraldine, whom his sonnets have im-
mortalized, and whilst making the tour of Italy, according to
| Crucifixion, with angels holding cups to receive the
blood. — The Back Hall contains four large pieces :
Joseph interpreting Pharaoh's dream ; Joseph itt
his coat of many colours relating his own dream, to
his brethren ; Moses found in the Nile ; and Moses
and the serpents ; two antique busts, originals ; and
two modern ones, Charles the First, and Charles
Louis Palatine of the Rhine. — A small Dressing
Room on this floor has a curious portrait of a
Duchess of Milan, and another of Henry, sixth Duke
of Norfolk. «— The Small Drawing Rootn, 36 feet by
30, is elegantly furnished with crimson damask, and
magnificent slabs of Sienna marble ; it is also ex-
tremely rich in paintings, amongst which are, Mary
Duchess of Norfolk; Edward Duke of Norfolk;
Eurl of Stratford, beheaded in Charles's reign ; Phi-
lip of Arundel ; the great Earl of Arundel, and Lady
Alithea Talbot, his countess, both by P. Vansomer;
Henry Howard, the poetic Earl of Surrey, when
young ;f Elizabeth Somerset, daughter of the Mar-
quis of Worcester, and consort of Henry, sixth
Duke of Norfolk ; Thomas Duke ol Norfolk, Lord
Treasurer ; a portrait of the poetic Earl of Surrey
more advanced in lite; Henry Earl of Arundel;
Lord Thomas Howard, father of a lale duke ; (he
lost his life nt sea, whilst a young man, and is repre-
sented as shipwrecked ;) Cardinal Howard ; Lord
Edmund Howard, who commanded the van at the
battle of Floddenfield ; the Earl of Eftingham, lord
high admiral at the time of the Sp-inish Armada,
and many others. The Large Drawing Room, 53
feet by 30, is hung with beautiful Gobelin tapestry.
— The Dining-room, 42 feet by 38, contains two
landscapes and banditti, by D'Arthus ; Diilo and
jEneas, from an Italian pencil ; and Snn Roquc, on
pilgrimage, and his dog bringing him a loaf.— In an
Anti-room, is a handsome chimney-piece of white
marble, with a painting over it in fresco, done by
Bruyn, who painted the st-iircase.— The Cliapei has
a fine altarpiece of the Resurrection ; anil on the
altar is a large crucifix of exquisite workmanship.
This is permitted to remain, in compliment to several
Catholics in the neighbourhood. This chapel was
originally consecrated according to the ritual of their
church; and, on its various sides are hung the Pre-
sentation, the Descent from the Cross, a Dead
Christ, and several other religious paintings.
The flower-garden, near the house, contains a
large and handsome green- house, which boasts a
variety of exotics. The bowling-green is a very ex-
tensive one, surrounded by some line larches.
the chivalrous custom of those times, published a challenge
against all comers, whether -Christians or Saracens, in defence
of her beauty, and was victorious in a tournament on that
occasion, which induced the Grand Duke of Tuscany to wish
to retain him at his court ; but he determined to establish her
fame in every city in Italy, from which romantic resolution
however, he was recalled by order of Hen'ry'lhe Eighth, \et
afterwards beheaded as a victim to the jealousy of that monarch,
on Tower-hill.
TABLE
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VOL. IV. — NO. 145.
OXFORDSHIRE.
54
OXFORDSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.
OXFORDSHIRE is an inland county, bounded
on the north-east by Northamptonshire ; on the
east by Buckinghamshire ; on the south by Berk-
shire ; and on the west by Gloucestershire. It is of
a very irregular figure ; as, near the centre of the
county, at Oxford, it is not more than seven miles
across ; while, in the more northern part, at no great
distance, its diameter is thirty-eight miles. Fur-
ther northward, it assumes a conical form, and ter-
minates at the Three Shire Stone, in a point or apex.
South of Oxford it is also disproportionately narrow ;
as, at no point south of the city is it above twelve
.miles in width. Its greatest length is fifty miles :
according to Davis's " Topographical Survey," its
contents are 450,000 acres ; but, in the government
tables, its contents are given at 474,880 acres — In
its southern districts, the county exhibits many
charming displays of hill and vnlley alternately.
What are termed the Chiltern elevations, partly
clothed with rich mantles of beech, and sometimes
arable to a height supposed unattainable by the mid-
land husbandry of the early ages, abound in variety
and grace of scene. Forests and woods display
at every turn a captivating, though circumscribed,
grandeur of prospect. On the north, particularly
on the western part of that district, stone fences sup-
ply the place of thick-set hedges, decorated with
wild flowers, which form the boundaries of other
inclosures ; and the eye is often fatigued by a rude
and frigid monotony of scene. Tlie rivers which
How through the county are the chief sources of its
beauty. ID general the air is supposed to be healthy
and bracing ; but, from a want of umbrageous fences,
the northern parts are chilly for the greater part of
the year, and unpleasantly warm in the summer
months. The frost always takes effect sooner, and
lasts longer, on the chalky lands at the base of the
Chiltern hills, than in any other part of the neigh-
bourhood ; and, in tepid seasons, the climate of the
Chiltern country is usually moist, since fogs are more
frequent among the woods and hills than the valleys.
WOODLANDS, &c.] — Excepting the most northern
districts, and omitting the article of oak, Oxfordshire
is a well-wooded county. The Cbiltern division,
which abounds in beech, has been supposed to fornr
a part of that great forest, described by Leland, as
stretching 120 miles westward from the borders of
Kent. " The beech wood of Oxfordshire," says
Davis, " consists of trees growingon their own steins,
produced by the falling of the beeoh mast, as very-
little is permitted to grow ou the old stools, which,
are generally grubbed up. They are drawn occasi-
onally, being never felled all at once, except for th&
purpose of converting the land into tillage, which
has been much practised of late years. It requires
some judgment to thin these woods so that the pre-
sent stock may not hang too much over these seed-
lings, at the same time that, in a south aspect, an<
injury may take place by exposing the soil too much
to the sun ; for it is to be observed, that the north,
side of a hill will produce a better growth of beech-
than the south side. The succession of young trees,
in beech wood is much injured by admitting sheep,
or other cattle, into them ; and, though it is observed
by some that sheep do no damage in winter, when the
leaf is off, yet it is the opinion of others, that the
wool which is left hanging on the young stock is pre-
judicial to its growth, even supposing, what is
doubtful, that the sheep do not crop them. There
are some oak and ash trees in these woods, dispersed
among the beech, which have sprung up in places
where the seeds have dropped, or been carried by
birds. These seldom grown to any great bulk,
though sometimes to great lengths, but they are not
very numerous." — In the forest of Whichwood the
oak, the ash, the beech, and elm, are intermixed.
Of the first a majority is seen ; but, though the oaks
of Whichwood are numerous and thriving, there are
not many which are likely to be soon ready for naval
use. The coppices of Whichnood Forest are its
most profitable production. Of these there are
thirty-four ; eighteen of which belong to the King-,
and twelve to the Duke of Marlhorough. The cop-
pice wood belonging to his Majesty is usually cut
at eighteen years' growth, and that appertaining to
the Duke at twenty-one. The emolument derived
from each acre is about six shillings per annum. The
open part of the forest produces nothing but brush
fuel
is&^Sz^****^*
OXFORDSHIRE.
fuel, and food for the deer, which are numerous.
When a coppice is cut, the lurd of the domain causes
a hedge and ditch to be formed round the site, for
the term of seven years, until the expiration of which
period no person possessed of commonable right can
enter with his cattle. In the vicinity of Stanton St.
John are considerable tracts of woodland, called the
' quarters,' in which the oak is frequent, and there
are many expanses of nearly a similar description
in various other parts of the county. The great
price of timber, and the high rent of arable land,
have induced many landlords to grub up considerable
ranges of wood. On the other hand, recent plan-
tations are numerous throughout the county. The
* Alchemilla vulgaris. Ladies Mantle ; in Whichwood
Forest.
jtnagallis arecnsis J. Female, or Blue-flowered Pimpernel :
in corn-fields and sandy places ; at Botley,
near Oxford.
Anemone Pulsatilla. Pasque Flower: in several parts of Corn-
bury park, near Charlbury.
Antirrhinum repent. Monspessulanum ; Creeping Toad-flax :
in meadows, pastures, and hedges, about Hen-
ley.
Aquilegia vulgaris. Common Columbines: in the coppices
in Whichwood Forest, plentifully.
Arabis Turrita. Tower Wall Cress : on Magdalen College
walls.
Arenaria tenuifotia. Fine-leaved Chickweed : in the quarry
at Cornbury, near Charlbury.
Arundo Phragmites (ful. Tar.) Common Reed Grass with
variegated leaves: in the Thames, not far from
Oxford.
Asplenium Adiantum nigrum fi. A variety of Black Maiden
Hair : on Aldbury church-porch.
Astragalus glycyphillos. Wild Liquorice, or Liquorice Vetch :
in a lawn near a lodge in Whichwood Forest.
Atropa Belladonna. Deadly Night-shade or Dwale : in woods
and hedges, and on rubbish, in Woodstock
park.
Atena elatior. Tall Oat Grass : in Whichwood F'orest ; in
Cornbury quarry.
pubcsccns. Rough Oat Cjrass : about Cornbury quarry,
and in other parts of Whichwood F'orest.
Berberies vulgaris.. Barbery, or Pepperidge Bush: in hedges
about Charlbury.
Bromis murttlis, madritensis. Wall Broom Grass : on old
wall? about Oxford.
Campanula hederacea. Tender Ivy-leaved Bell-flower : in
Bagley Wood, near Oxford.
Cardamine hirsuta. Hairy Ladies Smock : by the rills of
water in Whichwood Forest, common.
Carduus acaulis. Dwarf Carline Thistle: in Whichwood
Forest.
criophorus. Woolly-headed Thistle : in Whichwood
Forest, and at Charlbury.
Carex capitata. Round-headed Carex : on the bogs on the
west side of Oxford.
itiflata. Lesser Bladder Carex : in ponds and watery
places ; at Ifley.
vesicaria. Greater Bladder Carex : in rivulets at Ox-
ford.
— strigosa. Loose Carex : in woods and hedges, near
Oxford.
Cham tomentosa. Brittle Chara : in bogs ; near the quarry
at Cornbury, in Whichwood Forest, and at
Ensham ferry.
Chenopodium album. Common Goose-foot : on dung-hills.
present Duke of Marlborough entirely planted the
great Belt at Blenhim, thirteen miles in extent.
MINERALS, FOSSILS, &c.] — Dr. Plot is of opinion
that a silver mine v>as once wrought in the Chiltern
part of this county ; but of. this there is no proof.
Freestone, limestone, and slate, are plentiful ; marl
is occasionally met with ; and the ochre of Shotover
is thought to be the finest of the kind in the world.
There is also some potters' clay. Medicinal springs,
of the various orders of chalybeate, are numerous.
PLANTS ] — There are considered to be about 1200
British pi tnts growing in this county, the more im-
portant of which are mentioned in the note below.*
RIVERS.] — Our natural historians assert, that no
fewer
Chieranthus erysimoides. Wild Stock, or Wall-flower: in
osier-grounds; about Godstow, near Oxford.
Colchicum autumnale. Meadow Saffron : in a moist meadow,
just below Stunsfield church, and in several
parts of Whichwood Forest, plentifully. •
Cotyledon umbilicus. Navel-wort, Kidney-wort, or Wall Pen-
ny-wort : on the walls of Hewly Abbey, and
on Godstow bridge, near Oxford.
Conviillaria maialis. Lilly Cornvally, or May Lily : in the
coppices of Whichwood Forest.
Cratagm oxyacaittha (bac. alb.) White Thorn, or Hawthorn
will) a white berry : in a hedge at the Bowling-
green, at Bampton.
Fontinalis minor. Lesser Water Moss: in the Kis, near Oxford.
Geranium columbinum. Long-stalked Doves-foot Cranes-bill :
in corn-fields and mountainous pastures ; at
Oxford.
disiectum ft. Jagged-leaved Cranes-bill : in hedges
about Marston, and on Bolley Cawsey, near
Oxford.
rotundifoliuM. Round-leaved Cranes-bill : on walls,
houses, and hedges ; at Oxford.
HeUeborus viridis. Wild Black Hellebore : in Stoken church
wood.
Iberis amara. Butter Candy Turf : in corn fields about Hen-
ley, and elsewhere.
Iris faetidissima. Stinking Gladdon, or Gladwyn : in hedges
and bushy places, near Oxford casile.
Jungermannia asplenoides ft. A variety of Spleenwort Jtm-
gerinannia : at the roots of trees ; in the road
from Oxford to High Witkham-
pingius. Jagged Jungermannia : in Whichwood
Forest, on Newell bogs, and elsewhere.
Lathyrus Aphaca. Yellow Vetchling: in the fields between
Oxford and Woodstock.
Lichen articiilatus. Jointed Liverwort : on trees in woods.
granulata. Granulated Liverwort: on the gravel walks
of the Botanic Garden at Oxford.
• Plicatus. Common Hairy Liverwort,")
or Tree Moss : on branches of I
trees. | in Which-
pulinonarius. Lung-wort or Oak Lungs, V wood
on old trees. Forest.
vulpinus. Gold Wire Liverwort : on |
trunks and branches of trees. J
Monotropa Hypopythis. Birds-nest, smelling like Primrose
roots ; in woods i:ear Sloken church.
Oenanthe fistulosa /3. A variety of the Lesser Water Drop-
wort : in the ditches about Medley and Binsey
common, and elsewhere.
Ophrys apiferu £. A variety of the Bee Orchys ; on chalky
ground at Stainsfield.
arunifcra. Spider Orchis: on chalky grounds at
Stainsfield.
Orobut
OXFORDSHIRE.
fewer than 70 streams find their course through this
county. Of these, the Thame, the Isis, the Char-
well, the Evenlocle, and Windrush, claim priority
of notice ; but the pride of the county is that con-
fluence of the former two, which constitutes the
Thames. Respecting this majestic rirer, Skrine
observes, " that the streams which afford subject of
contention unite near Lechlade, and creep in obscu-
rity through the plain of Oxfordshire, by the parallel
canal which has been lately made to join the Severn
with the Thames. After the Coin and the Lech have
added their tributary forces, the navigation of this
river, (under the name of Isis) properly commences ;
but it is understood to be long very imperfect, from
its winding course, and its prevailing shallows ;
neither is the country it first traverses, dividing the
counties of Oxford and Berks, at all pleasant, as it
pursues its way almost unseen in the midst of an
unwearied plain, first towards the east, and after-
wards inclining towards the north. In this level the
Windrush joins it from Burford and Witney, and
the more pleasant stream of the Evenlode, pursuing
nearly the same direction from the north-west, de-
scends from Whichwood Forest, and the great
Ridings of Charlbury, united, at last, with a smal-
ler stream, which forms the great Lake in Wood-
stock park. The Isis, thus augmented, turns sud-
denly to the south, washing the ruined wails of
Goilstow nunnery. The vale now expands into a
spacious amphitheatre, bounded by some striking
Orobus sytcutictis. English Wood Vetch, or Bitter Vetch :
in (lie upper part of Medley grove near Ox-
ford.
Osmunda Lunaria. Moon-wort; iu several parts of Which-
wood Forest.
Pyrola rotiindifotiu. Common Winter Green ; in Stoken
church woods.
Potentilla reptans /3. Creeping Tormentill : in the borders of
corn-fields, between Hockley and Shotover
woods.
Sagina procumbens. Pearl-wort: in the walks of Ballol Col-
lege garden, in the fallow fields about Hecling-
ton and Cowley, and elsewhere.
Sambucus nigra (fruc alb.} Common Elder with a white
berry : in the hedges, near Watlingtoo.
• nigra /3. Feathered Elder : about Charlbury.
Sanguisorba ajfficinalis. Burnet : in Ascot field, near Which
wood Forest gate, and in Spilsbury field.
Scirpus acicitlaris. Least upright Club Rush : in ditches on
Binsey common.
Seirpus setace us. Least Club Rush, or Bull Rush: by the
Isis on Binsey common.
sylvaticus. Millet Cyprus Grass : in a garden at Wai-
cot, nr:ir Charlbury.
Serapias latifolia. Wild broad leaved Helebore : on Stoken
church hill, and in the woods near it.
latifolia $. A variety of the same with a dark red
flower : on Stokenchurch hill.
longifolia grandiflora. White flowered bastard Hel-
lebore : in Stokenchnrch wood, not far from
the road from Oxford to London.
Spergula nodnsa. Knotted Spurrey, or English Marsh Sax-
frage : in bogs at Cornbury, and in Whichwood
Forest,
Spiraa Filipendula. Drop-wort: in Whit hwond Forest.
Stacliys Germaiiica. Base Horehound : in a lane leading from
hills, in the centre of which the majestic towers,
domes, and spires of Oxford burst upon the sight,
appearing proudly ranged behind the thick shade of
the venerable groves. Here the Isis divides itself
into various small channels as it traverses the mea-
dows of Witham, leaving Oxford on the left, and
passing through several handsome stone bridges,
connected by a grand causew'ay, which forms its
principal approach from the west. These streams
soon re-uniting, the river turns round the city .to-
wards the north-east, and, crossed by an ancient
stone bridge, glides beautifully through the enamel-
led and ornamented meads of Christ-church. A
superb walk of elms beneath this spacious college
fronts its meadow, over the deep foliage of which
the Gothic buildings of Christ-church appear in
stately pride as they display themselves gradually,
with a succession of all the numerous towers of the
University, in the descent of the Isis. A little lower
it is joined by the Charwell, flowing from the north
of Banbury, and passing on the eastern side of Ox-
ford through the arches of the magnificent bridge
of Magdalen. The country becomes now, for a
while, more inclosed, and the numerous plantations
surrounding Lord Harcourt's noble seat of Nune-
ham are finely opposed by the thick woods of Bag-
ley, in Berkshire. The Chiltern hills occupy all
along the hack ground at a distance, forming a wav-
ing line towards the south, sometimes cloathed with
thick woods of beech, and at others protruding their
Whichwood Forest to Charlbury, and in the
coppices in Whichwood Forest near Witney
park.
Stellaria graminea ft. A variety of the lesser Stitchwort : in
meadow's, pastures, and hedges ; at Oxford.
SymphytUm officinale (flo. purj>.) Comfrey with a purple
flower: near the turnpike at Wheatly-bndge.
T/ilaspi alpestre. Perforate Bastard Cre^s; among the stone-
pits between Witney and Biirford.
arvense. Treacle Mustard, or Penny Cress : in clay
fields; about Chipping Norton, and at Charl-
bury frequent.
Tilia Europcea. Red Lime, a variety of Common Lime, or
Lindentiee: in Stnkenchurch woods.
Tordilium officinale. Small Tbrdylium: plentifully on the
banks of the road to Heddington, about half
a mile from Oxford.
Trifolium arvense. Hare's Foot Trefoil: in sandy pastures
and meadows ; near Oxford.
Triticum caninum. Dog's Grass with awns ; in Stokenchurch
wood plentifully.
Turritis hiriuta. Hairy Tower Mustard : in Ascot field, near
Charlbury.
falentia cmciata. Cross Wort, r>r Mugweed ; in bushy places
and hedges; about Charlbury plentifully.
Paleriaqa officinatis jS. A great variety ot Great Wild Vale-
rian : in several parts of Whichwood Forest'.
Vinca major. Greater PerriwinkJe : in the highways between
Wolvercote and Yarnton.
Violahirta. Violet with Throat-wort leaves: in the coppices
of Magdalen college, in Stone woods, in Shot-
over hills, and elsewhere.
palustris. Marsh Violet : in the bogs about Stow woods,
and on the banks of Cherwell, between Oxford
and Water-Eyton.
chalky
OXFORDSHIRE.
chalky sides and dtwnisli summits into the plain.
The windings of the river through this great level
are frequent ; but its direction is mostly southward,
a little inclined to the east, as it passes between two
high Berkshire hills, and the long straggling town
of Dorchester, in Oxfordshire. Somewhat below
this place, the Tharae advances from the north-east
to meet it, passing through the ancient bridges ol
Wiieatley and Dorchester, and joining the Isis a
little above the point where the more modern pile of
Siiillingtortl Bridge crosses both combined. At this
junction the'Fhames first obtains its name. — Shilling-
ford Bridge occupies a romantic position, which
strikes the eye more strongly from being unlike the
rest of the country, which bears an open and dreary
aspect; the more ancient pileof Wallingford Bridge
succeeds, below its town, and Mongewell, a seat ot
the Bishop of Durham, graces the Oxfordshire bank
of the Thames. The inclination of the river from
Wiillingford to Paugbourn is almost due south ; but it
there begins to form a considerable circle by the east
to the north, below Reading, till it reaches Henley.
Alter it quits Wallingford, the river forms an in-
dented valley through the range of the Cotteswold
hills, which, losing insensibly their downish charac-
ter, become adorned witli the varied beauties of art
and nature. At Reading, the valley formed by the
Thames expands into a rich plain, full of verdure,
woods, and population. The Kennel here joins its
tributary waters, from the Downs of Wiltshire. The
Loddon brings a further increase somewhat lower,
and the Thames, thus augmented, glides, in a broad
silver mirror, through the plain, till it becomes en-
gulphed amidst the line chain of hills surrounding
Henley. The Thames throughout divides the coun-
ties of Oxford and Buckingham from Berkshire.
The edible fish produced by this great river, while
it remains in Oxfordshire, are chiefly pike, chubbs,
barbel, pearch, eels, roach, . dace, and gudgeons ;
and salmon are sometimes found." The great
quantity of the more valuable sort of fish formerly
met with in this river is evident from Dr. Plot, who
tells us that, " in the year 1674, the Isis gave so
ample testimony of its great plenty, that, in two days
appointed for the fishing of Mr. Maior and the bailiffs
of the city of Oxford, it afforded, between Swithin's
wear and Woolvercot-bridge, (a space of about three
miles,) fifteen hundred jacks, beside other fish." —
The Thames always freezes first at the bottom ; a
habit which is often found to prevail among rivers in
Germany.
Amongst the minor rivers of this county, the
Windrush, so serviceable to the raanufaetory of
Witney, though it flows through a narrow channel,
and pervades only a limited district, is perhaps the
most usetul.
CANALS.] — The Oxford Canal enters this county
between Claydon and the Three-Shire Stone, in its
northern quarter ; and, cipproaching the vicinage of
the Charwell, at Cropretiy, it proceeds, at a little
distance from the banks of that river, to Oxford,
VOL. iv. — NO. 145.
where its channel terminates, and is succeeded by
the navigation of the Isis. This cut opens an imme-
diate connection between the interior of the county,
and Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, &c.
ROADS.] — Till within these few years the roads in
this county were deplorably bad ; but the change to
be now observed is of a most gratifying description.
The turnpike-roads are in general good, and inter-
sect the county in the direction of all its principal
markets ; and the majority of the cross roads ar«
much better than they were formerly.
MANUFACTURES.] — The manufactures of Oxford-
shire are few, and not in a very flourishing condition.
At Witney is a celebrated manufactory for the weav-
ing of blankets. This trade, however, was progres-
sively declining for many years, until the introduc-
tion of machinery took place, and enabled the pro-
prietors to restore the flourishing tone of the business.
At Woodstock the manufacture of delicate articles,
composed of polished steel, is cultivated to some
extent ; and, in the same town, the manufacture of
leather into breeches and gloves was introduced
about fifty or sixty years ago. A coarse sort of
velvet is made at Bloxham and at Banbury ; and
some lace is made in the neighbourhood of Thame.
The town of Henley has, for many centuries, sup-
plied London with malt, upon an extensive scale.
AGRICULTURE,&C.] — According to Arthur Young,
this county contains three strongly marked distinc-
tions of soil : the red-land, the stone-brash, and
the chiltern. The red-land, consisting of nearly
800,000 acres, is found in the northern division,
ami much exceeds the others in fertility. It is deep,
sound, friable, yet capable of tenacity, and adapted
to every plant that can be trusted to it by the indus-
try of the cultivators. The stone-brash prevails
chiefly in the central division, and pervades upwards
of 164,000 acres. The predominant feature of this
extensive tract is a surface, of greater or less depth,
of a loose, dry, friable sand, or loam, apparently
formed of abraded stone (generally lime-stone,) and
abounding with many fragments of it. There are
nearly 65,000 acres of chiltern lands, the basis of
which is chalk, covered to various depths with loam,
generally sound and dry. The most distinguishing
mark of the surface-loam is a considerable quantity
of flints, mostly brown, rough, crusty, and honey-
combed, many to perforation, and many also with a
sparry incrustation. The remainder of the county
includes all sorts of soil, from loose sand to heavy
clay. — Of late years, Agriculture has made rapid
strides in improvement, owing principally to the
system of inclosure. The ancient system revived, of
employing oxen for tillage, instead of horses, is
practised to>a considerable extent ; and, with much
success. Of the different breeds, the Herefordshire
is preferred. The general practice of the county is
to plow deep, which causes the farmers, without ex-
ception, to use either three or four horses in a plow-
team, where oxen are not adopted. The practice of
drilling is in its infancy in the county, but appears
P likely
OXFORDSHIRE.
likely to extend. — The advantage of paring and
burning is almost generally acknowledged, in regard
to fresh inclosures, especially where they ruu on
furze-lands ; and some farmers break up sainfoin
and clover with this practice. Except on new land,
burning is, however, not commonly used. The
manures chiefly used are those of the common sort ;
dung, and composts consisting of mixens of dung,
earth, the cleanings of ponds, &c. Lime lias been
sometimes tried on the red lands, and merits a more
general adoption. Gypsum is only partially used. —
The greatest glory of Oxfordshire, was formerly the
abundance oHts meadows and pastures. The mea-
dows and natural pastures are, at present, highly
beneficial, but, that they form, in point of profitable
resource, the great boast of the county cannot be
allowed. The- hills, then matted with underwood,
are now covered, even in their most calcareous dis-
tricts, with sainfoin ; and the flats, which then lay
fallow, are periodically cropped with clover, with
lucern, and the numerous tribes of snccedaneous
grasses. In consequence, the meadows have ceased
to form a primary feature of county wealth. The
meadows, which let for forty shillings an acre, half
a century ago, will not now produce more than
three pounds ; whilst the arable land, which then
let for twelve shillings, will now find a ready occu-
pier at the rate of twenty-four shillings an acre. —
The meadows on the borders of the Thames and the
Charwell are naturally rich, but subject to injury
from floods. Where they are in allotments they are
generally mown once, and then fed. The produce
of hay, per acre, may average nearly two tons. The
bulk of inclosed meadow, or pasture-land, is found
in the central parts of the% county ; and there much
benefit is derived from under-draining. — The dairy
system is chiefly prevalent, though little cheese is
made for sale. The long-horned breed of cows is
usually preferred ; and the milking is uniformly al-
lotted to men. — There is no watered meadow in Ox-
fordshire, though many parts are extremely well
adapted to it.* — The culture of artificial grasses is
well understood here : sainfoin is grown to a large
extent ; and is to be found on every appropriate soil
nearly in all the districts. Lucern is only partially
cultivated. The farmers well know the value of
clover, and they rear crops productive, on the aver-
age, of one ton and half per acre. Trefoil is oon~-
sidered valuable, but ray-grass, especially it' without
a mixture of cocksfoot, is held in little esteem. — Ox-
fordshire has been rather slow in receiving the novel
implements constructed in. neighbouring counties ;
but still the catalogue is satisfactory, when compared
with that of the 17th century. The ploughs gene-
rally used are those with two wheels, the beam rest-
ing on a pretty high fore carriage ; or those with
* This circumstance arises, in a great measure, from a legal
jcision made in the county, importing, " that a proprietor
decisio
has no right to effect any operation on liis own property that
may tend to lessen the quantity of water, if there be any mills
one wheel, the beam low : both having straight
mould-boards, or but little varied. The Wiltshire,
the Glamorgan, and Gloucester ploughs have, also,
been tried in several parts, with success proportioned
to the varieties of soil. At Burford a cutting roller
has been manufactured, composed of twelve wheels,
two inches and a half thick, and between them a
space of two inches and a half. They are three feet,
diameter. The inventor loads them so as to be suf-
ficient work for six oxen, and passes them over
wheat after it is sown, or after it is up ; and, if dry,
cross and cross. In spring, he has also used it upon
wheat ; it leaves the surface rough, in diamonds,
which he finds useful. Scarifiers and scufflers, so
much esteemed in districts where a light friable loam
predominates, are here very rare. — Skim-coulters
are used by some, when the land is not flinty.
Threshing-mills are much employed. The horse-
hoe, though occasionally found, is not in common use.
In this county, some individuals grant leases for
fourteen, or even twenty-one years ; but, in general,
seven years form the extent of the allotted term. In
the neighbourhood of Chipping-Norton scarcely any
are granted. The longest is six years, prescribing
the six crops ; but, more commonly, nothing more
than an agreement, voidable in many cases at six
months' notice. In several districts, the tenant is
happy to avail himself of a permission to cultivate
with legal security the four crops usually successive
on his land. — The farms vary much in size; but, in
general, they are not so large as in most other parts
of England. The largest farms in the rich Thame
district, do not usually exceed 300 acres. About
Stoken-ash there are none capable of maintaining
more than 200, or 300 sheep. For some miles around
Blenheim, farms are in general from 100 to 500
acres. There are many farms in the forest division
so small as not to pay more rent than twenty pounds
per annum. Arthur Young conjectures the follow-
ing to be the proportion of rents in 1807 : — The
red land 30s. stone brash 20*. C'hiltern 16s. and,
miscellaneous twenty-five shillings ; according to
which, the average is 22s. IQd. per acre, and the
whole rental of the county 543, 297/. Is. Qrl. It is
probable, however, that, since that period, rent has
risen throughout the whole county at least in the
proportion of one-fifth part.— The tithe is of various
descriptions. A few rectors have one in fifteen, and
others one in twenty. It is seldom taken in kind,
and the usual rate of composition for arable land
fairly let, may, perhaps, be stated at one-fourth of the
rent. — Excepting the dreary district termed Otmoor,
and the extensive wilds appertaining to the forest
of Whichwood, the waste land of this county is
comparatively small. Otmoor, near Islip, contains
about 4000 acres, nearly on a level, and completely
below him." A doctrine which, according to Young, may be
•good in law, but is horrible in politics : wind and steam will
grind corn ; therefore, a water-mill has little pretentions to
utility ; and, if it imp 'de irrigation, is a nuisance.
inundated
OXFORDSHIRE.
inundated in wet seasons. Eight adjoining town-
ships possess a right of commonage on this dismal
tract ; but, as the right is possessed without stint,
the abuses are very great. The soil of the common
is a good loam, and if inclosed, drained, and duly
managed, it would prove highly serviceable.— The
cottager appears to derive the greatest benefit from
Otmoor. He turns out little except geese ; and the
coarse, aquatic, sward of this waste is well suited
to the wants and constitution of his flock. — In the
purlieus of Whichwood Forest are extensive tracts
of waste ground, the commonage of which is con-
fined, by right, to horses and sheep ; but the instances
of illegal assumption are numerous. — The other com-
mons are to be found among the Chiltern hills, in
districts which, though denuded, are too steep for
the plough ; and in the northern part of the county,
where there are many ranges of down-land appro •
priated to the pasturage of young cattle, or oxen used
for the purpose of tilling the land. — In every part of
the county many small proprietors are to be met
with ; men who are either relics of the ancient yeo-
manry, or who have been enabled to purchase small
ranges of land, by the exercise of rural or commer-
cial industry. The bulk of the county, however, is
not vested in such moderate proprietors. There is
one estate that produces 20,000/. a year ; one of
12,000/.; one of 7,000/.; one of G,000/.; one of 5,500/. ;
two of 4,000/. ; and several of above 3,000/. The
general mode of estimating the value of land is to
place it at twenty-six years' purchase. Of live
stock, Oxfordshire has no peculiar breed, nor has it
adopted any particular race with much preference.
Where a farm is under the dairy-system, the long-
horned cows are generally most esteemed : these are
frequently brought from Leicestershire. The York-
shire, the Hertfordshire, and various crosses, are also
occasionally found. The Berkshire sheep were for-
merly most favoured ; but, latterly, the South Downs
have risen into much esteem. The farms of this
county are usually well stocked with sheep. The
Berkshire hogs are (he kind most commonly seen ;
and, many boars are fed in the neighbourhood of
Oxford for the purpose of making brawn. — Domestic
rabbits are bred to a considerable extent. It would
be unjust to close this agricultural sketch, without
mentioning the praiseworthy conduct of a dignified
individual, who has adopted a mode of procedure,
in regard to the poor, that merits particular notice.
" The Bishop of Durham, whore sides at Mongewell,
has built six pairs of cottages, in a substantial way,
and on a judicious plan, for each of which tenements
he requires the annual rent of 2/. 2s. To every
habitation is attached ajgood garden, and conveni-
ence for the keeping of pigs. But rent, in money,
is not his lordship's object : it is his great wish to
form a race of neighbouring tenantry, who shall be
conspicuous for moral habits, and a judicious order
of domestic reconomy. To atchieve this great aim,
* Vide Vol. II. p. 430.
every workman employed on his estate is encourage^
to deposit in the hands of the bailiff", at harvest time,
a sum not less than I/, lls. Qd. ; in consequence of
which provident reserve in the hour of comparative
plenty, the labourer is permitted, through the follow-
ing winter, to receive barley from the bailiff' at two
shillings per bushel under the market price, or any
other grain needed by his family, at a proportionate
rate of reduction. His lordship, observing, that half
the misery of the poor arises from the impositions,
as to badness of article, deficiency of weight, and
allurements to ran into debt, practised by little coun-
try shopkeepers, has established a village shop on
his own foundation, in which not only his own noigh,-
bouring tenants, but all other poor in the vicinity,
may purchase what they need at a reduced price,
for ready money. Flax is delivered to the females
of the cottage families, in any quantity required ; and
when they return it spun into thread, they are paid
a good price for their labour. It is necessary, only
to add, that the labourers under the Bishop of Dur-
ham never seek relief from the parish."
ETYMOLOGY.] — This county, called Oxenfordscire,
by the Saxons, derives its name from Oxford, the
chief town ; which, according to Leland, arose from
the contiguity of the river ' Ous,' (in Latin, Isis) and
he supposes that the ancient town was denominated
' Oustbrd.' It is more probable, however, that the
original town derived its appellation from the fre-
quent passage of oxen over the adjacent rivers. Thus,
the Grecians had their ' Bosphorus,' and the Ger-
mans their ' Ochenfurt,' upon the river ' Oder,' both
simply and unequivocally meaning a ford of oxen.'
GENERAL HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, &c.] — At the
time when the Romans entered Britain, under Aulus
Plautius, as we have already shewn in our account
of Gloucestershire,* a great portion of that county,
arid of Oxfordshire, was inhabited by the Dobuni ;
a tribe which, throughout the whole period of Roman
domination, seems to have been quiet and contented
in a state of servility. When the Romans finally retired
from the island, the Dobuni, doubtless, shared in the
general distress, although, from the inland character
of the district which they inhabited, they were pos-
sibly, one of the last nations to feel the scourge of
the invader ; and it was not until the latter part of
the sixth century that the Dobuni became entirely
tributary to the Saxons. On the division of Mercia
into five bishoprics, when the Saxons embraced the
Christian faith, the term Dobuni was buried under
that of Wiccii.f — Towards the end of the ninth
century, the Danes fixed their head quarters at
Reading, and ravaged every part of Oxfordshire
north of the Thames ; and, during the long contests
which subsequently took place, this county was often
the seat of warfare, and the city of Oxford was four
times reduced to ashes. The whole district is de-
scribed as being, at the commencement of the ele-
venth century, principally inhabited by Danes. — •
However,
60
OXFORDSHIRE.
However, tinder the patronage of Alfred, the uni-
versity of Oxford took firm root, and progressively
advanced, until it became a spot whence religion,
learning, and good manners, are happily diffused
through the whole kingdom. — The dreadful war of
the Roses, proved fatal to several of the nobility and
gentry connected with this county, among whom
none suffered more severely than the august family,
which derived therefrom its title. Fortunately, how-
ever, in only one instance did either the Yorkists or
Lancastrians enter Oxfordshire in arms. In 1469,
an army of 15,000 men, composed chiefly of the
farmers and common people of Yorkshire, proceeded
so far south as the neighbourhood of Banbury.
Edward IV. then sat on the throne, and he sent the
'Earls of Pembroke and Devon to oppose the rebels.
The two earls quarrelled at Banbury, and the
latter withdrew bis forces ; but Pembroke encoun-
tered the insurgents on a level extent of ground
called Danesmore, on the border of Oxfordshire,
where he was defeated and lost his life. — In the civil
wars of the seventeenth century, Oxfordshire did not
escape the visitation of the sword. The contending
armies traversed the county from one extremity to
the other ; and, whatever might be the banner under
which these armies fought, their exactions and de-
vastations were almost equally injurious. During
the visisitudes of this melancholy struggle, the city
of Oxford was reduced by the sectarian army, and
the town of Banbury was wrested from his fanatical i
opponents by the king, who retained possession
until he retired to Scotland. Several intrenchmeuts
remain in different parts of the county, as memorials
of these disgraceful contests.
In Oxfordshire there are but few important relics
of Roman military construction. AtAlchester, or Ald-
chester, on the eastern part of the county, there was
certainly a Roman station, the remains of which are
of a square form, with a ditch and bank facing the
four cardinal points. At Dorchester, on the south-
west, it is probable, that the Romans also fixed a
station. Besides these principal stations, there are
the remains of several intrenchments, which, from
their form, and from the coins found near them, may
be confidently pronounced Roman, though their
dimensions are so small, that it is evident they could
only have been used as posts of observation, or as
occasional resorts of security for detached bands of
military while halting during a inarch through this
part of the island — Various coins and relics of Roman
pavements have been discovered at different periods
in almost every division. — In addition to these mili-
tary domestic vestiges of the Romans, may be noticed
several funeral mounds, formed from the rude grassy
squares of turf which the Roman soldiers were ac-
customed to throw over the ashes of any eminent
warrior, to prevent that contumelious scattering of
his remains which they apprehended from barb. irons
tribes. Perhaps the most remarkable of these, is
that termed Astal Barrow, which borders on the
old Akeman Street, The most pleasing vestige,
however, of the ancient rulers of the world, is dis-
coverable in the roads which they constructed. Only
one of those four consular, or praHorian ways, whicli
were constructed from sea to sea, two in length and
two in breadth, of the whole island, passed through
Oxfordshire, and that was the Ikenjld Street, which
stretched itself, in regard to this county, from north-
east to south-west. As this was not formed by cast-
ing up i paved ridge, or laid out by deep trenches,
it is less distinguishable than many ; yet its track
through the county may be pretty accurately deve-
loped, except as to the point at which it quitted Ox-
fordshire on the south-west. Dr. Plot considers
that it quitted this county at the village of Goring.
— Of those vicinal ways, which ran from one colony
to another, or from station to station, the principal
in Oxfordshire is the Akeman Street, which appears
to have been constructed in different parts of the
county, either with or without a raised bank, as the
nature of the soil, through which it passed in its
progress, demanded. This road enters Oxfordshire
from Buckinghamshire, in the parish of Ambrosden.
After ascending to Blackthorn-hill, it crosses Wretch-
wich-green, and proceeds, a little to the north of
Gravenel-wood, and Alchester, to Chesterton : thence
it leads to Kirtlington ; and, passing the town-end,
and crossing the river Charwell near Tackley, enters
Blenheim-park, which it quits in a direction for the
village of Stonesfield. Here, altering its form,
though still retaining its name, it goes over the
river Evenlode, and passes near Wilcot and Rams-
den ; then to Aslally and Astal, and through the
fields to Broadwell-grove. At Broad well -grove the
outlines are more perfect, and the road then proceeds
nearly in a straight line for Gloucestershire.— From
the main channel of Akeman Street several minor
roads diverged. Two of these are traced near Kirt-
lington. One at the town's-end, which points upoa
the portway running east of Northbrook and Soul-
dern. The other appears to have branched from the
parent street nearer to the spot at which it crosses
the Charwell. There is, also, an outlet from th«
main road at the part now inclosed in Blenheim-
park, which points north-west towards Enston and
Chipping-Norton. In addition to these branches of
Akeman Street, a road crosses that street south of
Bicester, and runs north and south through Alches-
ter and Wendlebury meadow. It then goes over Ot-
inoor, where it has evidently been paved, passes
Beckley-park wall, and proceeds to the left of Shot-
over-hill, for Sandfard, where it crosses the Thames.
— Between Mongewell and Nuffield is a vallum, or
high-ridged way, termed Grime's Dike, or Devil's,
Ditch. This embankment is still very hi h, though
it is but single till it comes to the vicinity of Nuffield,
where the banks are double, with a deep trench be-
tween. The Ikenild Street crosses this embank-
ment, or dike, near Woodhouse-tarm. — Seveial Bri-
tish coins of a curious description have been found,
and there are some barrows which are evidently
relics of the aboriginals. — The most curious piece
of
OXFORDSHIRE.
of antiquity in the county is the circle of high stones,
termed Rowldrich, in the neighbourhood of Chip-
ping-Norton.
CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS, &c.] — This
county, which is divided into 14 hundreds, besides
the city of Oxford, and its liberty, comprises 214
parishes, and 10 parts of parishes, has 8 petty ses-
sions, and 41 acting county magistrates. The
diocese of Oxford is in the province of Canterbury,
and is limited to this county.
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.] — Oxfordshire
returns 9 Members to the House oi' Commons ; 2
for the County ; 2 for the City of Oxford; 2 for
the University ; 2 for Woodstock ; and 1 for Ban-
bury.
MARKET TOWNS.] — The following is a list of the
Market Towns of this county : —
Population.
1811
Towns. Market-days.
Bampton Wednesday.
1801
.... 1003 1232
Banbury Thursday" 2755 2841
Bicester Friday 1946 2146
Burford Saturday 1516 1584
Chipping-Norlon... Wednesday 1812 1975
Deddington Tuesday 1172 1296
Henley Thursday 2948 3117
Oxford Wed. and Sat 1 1749 12931
Thame Tuesday 2293 2388
Watlington Saturday 1276 1312
Witney Thursday 2584 2722
Woodstock Tuesday 1322 1419
FAIRS.] — Bamptoji — Aug. 26, horses and toys.
Banbury — Thursday after Jan. 17, horses, cows,
and sheep ; first Thursday in Lent, ditto, and fish ;
second Thursday before Easter, cattle and sheep ;
Ascension day, Thursday in Trinity week, Old Lam-
mas Day, horses, cows, and sheep ; Thursday after
Oct. 1, hogs and cheese, and hiring servants; Old
St. Luke's Day, cheese, hops, and cattle ; second
Thursday before Christmas.
.Bicester — Friday in Easter week, Whit-Monday,
first Friday in June, Aug. 5, December 17, for
horses, cows, sheep, pigs, wool, toys, &c. ; Friday
after Old St. Michael, Oct. 10, for hiring servants.
Burford — Last Saturday in April, cattle and sheep;
July 5, horses, sheep, cows, and small ware; Sept.
25, cheese and toys.
Charlbury — January I, second Friday in Lent,
second Friday after May 12, except it falls on a
Friday, and then the Friday following, cattle of
VOL. iv. — NO. 145.
all kinds ; October 10, cheese, and all sorts of
cattle.
Chipping Norton— March 7, May 6, last Friday
in May, July 18, September 4, October 3, statute ;
Nov. 8, last Friday in November, horses, cows,
sheep, lambs, leather, and cheese.
Deddington — Aug. 21, horses and cows ; Satur-
day after Old St. Michael, October 10, statute fair ;
Nov. 22, horses, cows, and swine.
Dorcfiesttr — Easter Tuesday, for pleasure.
Henley — March 7, chiefly horses ; Holy Thursday,
sheep ; Thursday after Trinity Sunday, horses, &c.;
Thursday se'nnight before Oct. 10, cheese.
Hook-Norton — Second Tuesday after May 12 ;
Nov. 28, horses and cows.
Nettiebed — Monday after St. Luke, October 18;
Tuesday se'nnight after Whitsuntide, small fairs,
chiefly toys, &c.
Oxford— May 3, Monday after St. Giles ; Septem-
ber 1, and Thursday before New Michaelmas, for
toys, and small ware.
Stokenchurch — July 10, horses.
Thame — Easter Tuesday, cattle of all sorts ; Old
Michaelmas, Oct. 10, horses, fat hogs, and hiring
servants.
Watlington — April 5, Saturday before October 10,
cattle and hiring servants.
Whentiey — September 29, cattle of all sorts, and
hiring servants.
Witney — Thursday in Easter week, cattle of all
sorts ; April 5, June 29, Aug. 2, cattle ; Nov. 23,
cattle and cheese.
Woodcot, near Henley — August 2, Monday after
Nov. 11, sheep, &c.
Woodstock — April 5, cheese, cattle, and sheep ;
Tuesday in Whitsunweek, horses, hardware, plea-
sure, &c. ; August 2, cherries, &c. ; October 2, a
great fair for cheese ; Tuesday after November 1,
cattle, sheep, and cheese ; Dec. 17, fat hogs and
other cattle ; second Tuesday after Candlemas-day,
a very large market for cattle.
POPULATION.] — In the year 1700, the population
of Oxfordshire was 79,000 ; in 1750, it was 92,400 ;
in 1801, it was 109,620; of which, 53,786 were
males, and 53,834 females. The contents of the
county being 742 square statute miles, the average
was nearly 148 persons to each square mile. In
1811 the entire population was 119,191, averaging
upwards of 160 persons per mile. The proportion
of births in this county is as 1 to 31 ; of deaths, as
1 to 55 ; of marriages, as 1 to 138.
Summary
62 OXFORDSHIRE.
Summary nf the Population of the County of OXFORDSHIRE, as published by Authority of Parliament, in 1811.
HUNDREDS, &c.
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
Inhabited.
£8
P u
(5 °
* £"3
*i*
*i
t»
ca
Uninhabited.
Families chiefly
employed in
Agriculture.
'*~*
I.sg»
--GJ2&
u t-2 .
M *-» If
— £ u S!
i sfal
_« »,H>a
All other fami-
lies not comprised
in the twn pre-
ceding Classes.
Males.
Temales
Total
of
Persons
2354
1781
1345
1486
1754
2482
569
1050
622
747
511
2275
745
2744
1992
245
2538
1910
1439
1638
1947
2592
609
1090
671
867
561
2475
779
3662
2468
360
4
19
1
3
11
11
1
2
1
1
2
9
1
20
30
74
38
45
43
37
52
9
34
14
20
3
31
5
51
42
1
1249
658
606
1165
1459
1663
477
801
552
529
353
1679
283
1942
185
16
887
763
399
421
351
611
105
210
92
174
102
542
132
755
1791
320
402
489
404
52
137
318
27
79
27
164
106
254
364
365
492
24
5917
4167
3273
3339
4386
6292
1364
2426
16(7
1814
1255
5571
1959
6983
6660
747
1423
6368
4482
3779
3656
4484
6348
1412
2490
1603
1996
1368
5686
1958
7237
6331
859
12285
8649
7052
6995
8870
12640
2776
4916
3220
3810
2623
11257
3917
14220
12931
1606
1423
Binfield .
Pirton
Wootton
City of Oxford
Totals
22702
25006
116
499 13646
7655
3705
59132
60059
IHM91
CHIEF TOWNS, HUNDREDS, PARISHES, &c.
BAMPTON.] — The market town of Bampton, or
Bampton-in-the-Bush, which gives name to one of
the hundreds, and which we shall notice presently,
Jies 6| miles 8. E. by S. from Burford, and 69| W.
N. W. from London. — The hundred of Bampton is
separated from that of Wootton by the river Wind-
rush, and is bounded on the west by Gloucester-
shire. Besides the market town of Bampton, it
contains those of Witney and Burford ; the town-
ship of Grafton ; the chapelries of Shifford and
Holwell ; the parishes and hamlets of Alvescott ;
Asthall and Asthall Leigh ; Aston and Cote ; Black
Bourton ; part of Brighthampton ; Bradwell ;
Broughton Pngges ; Cliimley ; Clanfield ; Crawley ;
Curbridge ; Ducklington ; Filkins ; Harley ; Hard-
\\icke ; Kelmscott ; Kencott ; Lew ; Brize-Norton ;
Radcot ; Standlake ; Upton and Signet ; Westwell ;
and Yelford.
In the market town of Burford, at the western
extremity of the county, 18| miles W. N. W. from
Oxford, and 73 W. N. W. from London, the houses
are antient, and with few exceptions, irregular and
ill-built. Tliis place was formerly much engaged
in the manufactory of coarse woollen cloths ; and,
in the early part of the last century, great quantities
of malt were made here, and conveyed to London.
Both of these trades are fallen into decay. Here
was formerly a small priory dedicated to St. John.
No part of the building now remains ; but, at the
Dissolution, it was granted to Edmund llarman,
Esq. by whom the present mansion, termed the
Priory, was constructed, as a private residence. It
was subsequently purchased by William Lenthal,
Esq. the celebrated Speaker of the House of Com-
mons, who long lived here, in dignified retirement;
and the building is still the property and residence
of his descendant. Much of the old house has been
taken down, but some fresh rooms have been added.
Adjoining is a chapel built by the speaker, Lenthal.
In the priory are preserved several fine paintings,
some of which were brought here from the collection
of King Charles the First, at Hampton Court.
Burford church, a large and handsome building of
the cruciform character, erected at different periods,
is in so low a situation, that, in very high floods, the
church-yard, and many parts of the church, are under
water. The tower in the centre is surmounted by
a lofty spire. The lower part of the tower, and the
great western door, are in the early Norman style of
architecture. The other parts of the structure ap-
pear to have been chiefly built in the time of Edward
the Third. In a groove of the stone-work which
forms the arch of the window on the outside of the
south transept, is an inscription, perpetuating the
name of John Leggare, who beautified the window
with painted glass, some fragments of which are still
remaining. He lies buried near his window, in the
church, under a large tomb-stone ; but the brasses
have been tiiken away, in the centre of another of
the aisles is a magnificent marble monument, to the
memory of Sir Laurence Tanfield, Lord Chief Baron
of the Exchequer, and Dame Elizabeth his wife. He
is represented in his robes, in a recumbent posture,
and his lady by his side. Over the effigies is a
canopy,
OXFORDSHIRE.
canopy, supported by six beautiful marble pillars.
Beneath is' a skeleton, representing death..*
The tables of benefactions in the church record
numerous charities which have been left at various
times, for the relief of the poor, and for many other
purposes. These well-intended bequests are said to
have suffered considerably, from a want of due atten-
tion ; but it is to be hoped, the commission which is
now silting, (September 1818) will remedy the evil. —
Here is a five-school, founded in 1571. Many persons
of considerableeminence were former! y educated here;
but the school is now far from being in a flourishing
condition. — Here are also three alms --houses for poor
widows, but they are very slenderly endowed.
At Bampton, in 682, a council is said to have been
held by the Kings Etheldred and Berthwald ; at
which Aldhelra, abbot of Malmsbury, being present,
was commanded to write against the error of the
British- church in the observance of Easter. — On a
spot still called the Battle Edge, Cuthred, king of
the West Saxons, then tributary to the Mercians,
incensed by the exactions of tlieir king, Ethelbald,
hazarded an engagement with that prince. He was
successful, and took from the enemy tlieir standard,
on whitrti was the portraiture of a golden dragon.
Plot says that, within memory, the townspeople were
accustomed annually to make a dragon, to which
they added a giant, and both were carried through
the street, with much parade and jollity, on Midsum-
mer Eve. — The inhabitants of Burford formerly
claimed the privilege of hunting, in the torest of
Whichwood ; but this liberty has been commuted for
a largess of venison. f This is a corporate town by
charter. It sent a member to parliament for one
session, but was relieved from this privilege, by peti-
tion. The corporation consists of an alderman ;
steward ; two bailiffs, who are elected annually ;
twelve burgesses, a town clerk, and a mace-bearer.
They possess no power, nor do they support any
political consequence. — Tue Anabaptists, Metho-
dists, and Quakers, each have a regular meeting-
house here.J ,
At Broadwell, 5' miles S. from Burford, is Broad-
well Grove-house, the seat of W. Hervey, Esq. It
is a new edifice in the modern Gothic style. This
estate, with the manors of Broadwell, Filkins, and
Ktlmscot, was the property of the Marquis of Tho-
rn ond ; who, in 1804, sold it to the present propri-
etor.— Filkins Hall is the seat of Edward Colston,
Esq. a descendant of one of the sisters of Edward
Colston, Esq. formerly an eminent merchant of Bris-
tol. The mansion, though not lofty, commands a
fine prospect. It contains some good pictures.
In the adjoining little village of Broughton Pogges,
the late Sir W. Burnaby possessed a mansion of
some consequence, which is still the property of his
family.
In the church of Black Bourton, is buried the
Hon. Sir Arthur Hopton, ambassador at the Court
of Spain for Charles the First. Attached to the
church is the Hungerford chapel ; in which are
interred several of the Hungerford family, once
powerful in this county.
Bampton appears to have been a town of some
eminence before the Conquest. It now wears the
tranquil appearance of a large village. The church
is a large and handsome cruciform building, with a
tower springing from the centre, surmounted by a
weighty spire. It hiis a good organ. — Here are
some remains of a castle, said to have been built by
King John, now occupied as a farm-house.
The river Isis is crossed, three miles to thesouth-
west of Bampton, by Radcot Bridge, an ancient
structure of three arches. In consequence of a cut,
made in 1787, for the improvement of the navigation,
the stream which flows through is now deserted by
* Sir Laurence Tantield died in ](>2i, alter having presided
as Chief Baron for twenty years. His epitaph informs us inat
lie outlived all the judges of tin.' land who presided in the seve-
ral law courts when lie entered on his office.
f On the afternoon of every Whitsunday the churchwardens,
accompanied by many of the inhabitants, go, in a kind of pro-
cession, to Cape's Lodge Plain, within the binders of the forest,
where they choose a Lord and a Lady, who a.e generally a boy
and a girl of Burford. These titular personages lormallv de-
niand ot one or more of the keepers of tiie forest (who always
attend for the purpose) "a. brace of the best bucks, and a fawn,
without fee or reward, with their horns and hoofs," for the use
of the town of Burford, to be delivered on due notice pieviously
given for that purpose. About the first week in August the
buck; are sent tor, and a venison feast is provided by the church-
wardens, which is held in the town hall, and is usually attended
bv so:ne hundreds of persons. The expenses of this gala are
defrayed by the company ; and many of the neighbouring gen-
try usuiily grace the hall with their presence.
J At Burford was born, in 1600, Dr. Peter Heylin. He was
educated at the free-school, and afterwards studied at Oxford,
_where he took his degrees. He was a warm defender of Arch-
bkhop Laud's conduct as' to ecclesiastical affairs, and was ap-
pointed one of the chaplains in ordinary to Charles the Firat.
lie was afterwards made .a prebendary of Westminster, and
.obtained several valuable livings. By the parliament, he was
! deprived of his church preferments, his estate was sequestrated,
] and his family reduced to necessity. On the Restoration Ire
[ was reinstated in his livings, and was made made sub-dean of
| Westminster. He died in 1662, and wa^ buried in St. Peler's
l church, Westminster. —Marchamont Nedhani, or Neeiiham,
I was also born here in 1620. At the age of fourteen he was
! placed as a chorister at Ail Souls' College, Oxford, where lie
i remained till 1637, when he look ihe degree of 15. A. He then
removed to London, and became an usher in Merchant Tay-
lor's school. He was subsequently an under clerk in Gray's
j Inn, and commenced writer for ihe press. He published a
periodical satire on the court, under the title of Mei curious
. Britaniiicus. He next commenced the practice of the healing
art, but was soon imprisoned in the Gale-house, lor aspersing
' the king in his publications. - He now (hanged political sides,
; and became the author of a work termed Mercurius Pragma-
licus, replete with satire levelled at the Presbyterians. When
that party advanced in power, he was discovered and committed
to Newgate, where he once more changed sides, and his talent
for writing was so highly appreciated that he was released ; and,
1 as the price of par, Ion, he wrote Mercurius Politicua, a work
severely hostile to the cause of the royalists. A sadden death
put an end to his prostitution of talent. He expired in D' livreux
Court, Temple Bar, and svas buried in the church of St. Cle-
ment's Danes.
traffic,
OXFORDSHIRE.
traffic, but the neighbourhood possesses much pictu-
resque beauty. In this vicinage, a conflict took
place, in the reign of Richard II. between Robert
De Vere, Earl of Oxford, and several of the nobility
ivho envied his favour with the crown. The Earl
•was vanquished, but saved his life by plunging- into
the stream, and swimming to the opposite bank. He
escaped to the continent ; but died, three years after-
wards, in Lorain, by a wound received from a boar,
in the chase. His corpse was conveyed to England,
and interred at the priory of Colne in Essex, which
structure had been founded by his ancestor, Alberic,
the first earl. The king attended the funeral in
person ; and his monument is still extant, enriched
with the effigies of himself and wife.
At Shiffbrd, 5| miles S. by E. from Witney, was
summoned, by King Alfred, one of the first parlia-
ments held in England.
In the neighbouring village of Standlake, is an
ancient building, partly moated, and retaining traces
of a drawbridge. It has evidently been a mansion
of some note, and is termed Gaunt's House.
The manor of Brize Norton, 3| miles S. E. from
Burford, has been long in the family of Greenwood,
(descpnded from one of the daughters .of the great
Sir Thomas More,) who have a mansion in the
parish, now occupied by a farmer. Adjoining was
a chapel, destroyed a few years ago, in which Divine
service was performed according to the Roman
Catholic mode of worship. — The church, a plain
ancient fabric, contains several memorials of the
Greenwood family, with many other monuments, all
in a lamentable state of neglect. — At Cress well, in
this parish, was formerly the principal residence of
a branch of the Wenman family, now a farm-house.
The market town of Witney, 11 J miles VV.N.W.
from Oxford, and 65| W. N. W. from London, is
Avatered by the Windrush. It consists chiefly of two
streets, the principal of which is about a mile in
length. The houses are uniformly of a respectable
character, and many are both handsome and spaci-
ous. A custom prevails of colouring the fronts with
n light and agreeable yellow. As the High Street
draws towards the south, it expands, and, in the
area, is preserved an extent of green sward, through
which is formed a handsome gravel walk, leading to
the church ; that edifice occupying the complete
termination of the street, and forming a fine archi-
tectural finish to the general view. — This town has
long been celebrated for the manufactory of blankets.
The staple, or blanket hall, on the east side of the
High Street, is a building calculated to adorn the
place. About the centre of the same street is the
town hall, a handsome modern building of -tone,
with a piazza beneath, for a market-place. Nearly
adjoining, is the market cross, erected in 1683, and
repaired in 1811. — A free school was founded here by
Mr. Henry Box, in 1660. A charity school was
also founded here in 1732. A short time ago, a
society was formed, entitled " The Society for pro-
moting; the Instruction of the poor in the town and
neighbourhood of Witney, according to the general
plan of the National Society ;" the schools to be open
on Sundays, as well as other days, to poor children
of all sects and denominations.
Witney Church is a large and handsome cruciform
building. From the square tower in the centre rises
a spire of substantial rather than airy proportions.
At each angle of the tower is an octangular minaret ;
and four faces of the steeple are ornamented with
pointed masonry, divided by mullions of stone into
four compartments. Several fine Gothic Avindows are
to be seen in different parts. In the spacious chancel
is the ancient piscina, with some remains of the stone
recesses used by the priest and deacons, during the
performance of mass. Here also is the burial place
of the Friend family; and a well-preserved brass,
bearing the effigies of a man, standing with his hands
folded. This is the memorial of Richard Ayshcorae,
of Lyford, Berks, who died in 1606. — At the north
west corner of the church is a spacious recess, formed
as a burial-place for the Wenman family, which is
preserved in an exemplary state of repair. — The
pewing of the church is modern, and very handsome.
Over a gallery at the west end is a good organ. — Ad-
joining the church-yard on the west, is an excellent
stone parsonage-house, built by Dr. Friend ; and,
on the east, is a range of alms-houses, erected and
endowed for the maintenance of six poor widows of
blanket-makers, by John Holloway, clothier, who
died 1724. — Here are meeting-houses for Quakers,
Presbyterians, and Methodists. Witney was one of
the eight manors given in 1040, by Alwin, Bishop of
Winchester, to his church, in consequence of the
accusation brought against him of indulging in habits
of suspicious intimacy with the mother of Edward
the Confessor. The queen mother cleared herself by
undergoing the fiery ordeal. — This town, in the 5th
of Edward II. was made a free borough, and conti-
nued to send members to Parliament till the 33rd of
Edward III. when the privilege was declined. —
In the reign of Edward II. solemn jousts were per*
formed here, between Humphrey Bohun, Earl of
Hereford, on the one side, and Aymer, or Audo-
mare, de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, on the other.
— In the seventeenth century a disastrous accident
occurred at Witney. The young and the gay of the
town assembled to witness the performance of a dra-
matic piece. The flooring gave way, and several
lives were lost in the general dovvnfal. — In the year
1744, a fire broke out at the dwelling of a tallow
chandler ; and, in less than three hours, thirty houses
were entirely consumed.
At Asthall, three miles E.by S. from Binford, is
an old manorial mansion, now used as a farm-house,
which was formerly the residence of Sir Richard
Jones, one of the judges of the Court of Common
Pleas in the reign of Charles the First. — In the north
;usle of the church of Asthall stands a large stone
coffin, said to contain the remains of Alice Corbett,
concubine to Henry the First.
BANBURY.] — The hundred of Banbury, at the
northern
OXFORDSHIRE.
northern extremity of (lie comity, is bounded, to-
wards the east, by Northamptonshire. That part of
the hundred, which includes the town of Charlbury,
h separated from the rest, and inclosed by the hun-
dreds of Wootton and Chadlington. Excepting that
it has little wood, this hundred ranks among the
most estimable in the county. The land is enclosed,
and in a good state of cultivation ; and the Oxford
canal, entering the hundred near Olaytleu, and
touching the town of Banbury in its progress, affords
facility to commerce. This hundred comprises the
borough and parish of Banbury ; the town of Charl-
bury ; and the parishes and hamlets of Great and
Litfle Bourtpn ; Clatlereott, (extra parochial,) Clay-
don, Cropredy, Epwell, Fawler, Finstock, Neith-
vop, Prescot, Hast and West Slieetlbrd ; Swacliff,
Wardington, with Williamscote, otherwise Wallscot,
and Coton.
The market and borough-town of Banbury, 23
miles N. by W. from Oxford, and lo\ N. W. from
London, is watered by the Cherwell, which here
divides the counties of Oxford and Northampton.
Banbury was the Branavis of the Romans ; and
numerous Roman coins have been found in its vici-
nity. In the civil war of the seventeenth century it
suffered severely. The castle was besieged, and
many skirmishes took place ; but the town was re-
tained by the king until he went to Scotland. — " The
most part of Banbury," observes Leland, "stands
in a valley, enclosed by low grounds. The fayrest
street lyes by west and east, down to the Cherwell :
in the west part of it is a large area, environed with
metely good buildings, having a goodly cross, with
many degrees about it. In this area is kept every
Thursday a very celebrated market. There is another
fair street i'rom south to north ; and at each end a
stone gate ; also other gates, yet no certain token or
likelihood that ever the town was ditched or walled."
— The cross and the gates are no more ; but nume-
rous eligible buildings have risen in their stead ; and
the town now wears a cheerful aspect. The houses
are of a respectable character, though irregularly
placed. The streets, however, are not paved, and
are, in wet weather, deplorably dirty. — The town-
hall, erected a few years ago, is a mean brick build-
ing, cracked, aud propped.
The fine old church, built by Alexander, Bishop
of Lincoln, was repaired, in Itisti ; but, in the last
century, it sank to a state of dangerous ruin, and
was taken down in 1790. The plan of the new church
was made by Mr. Cockerill ; and, to complete the
structure, about 22,000/. have been expended. The
part used for Divine service is, within, about ninety
feet square ; the pevving, of Norway oak, is extremely
handsome ; an excellent organ has been procured ;
and the galleries are placed in a conspicuous situation
for the charity children. The exterior of the build-
ing, however, is gloomy, from the want of a tower,
and from the absence of ornament.
Here is a charity-school for twenty boys and six-
teen girls, chiefly supported by subscription; and
'VOL. iv.— NO. 146.
unendowed alms-houses for ten poor \yidows. Herej
also, were two religious houses ; a college, and- an
Jiespital ; the remains of the latter hospital have
been converted into a barn, belonging to T. Cobbj
Esq.
Banbnry Castle was built by Alexander, Bishop
of Lincoln, in 1125. In the reign of Edward VI.
Bishop llolbech resigned the manor to the Crown ;
and Queen Elizabeth gave the estate, in exchange
for other lands, to the bishopric of Oxford. — The
castle was an extensive structure ; but there now
remains of it only a fragment of one of the walls,
between two and three yards square^ on which rests
a part of a tenement occupied by a gardener. A
contiguous range of land, termed the Castle Close,
is divided into small gardens, tenanted by different
individuals.
In the civil war, the castle was defended for
Charles by Sir William Compton. The Parliament
forces made many attempts to reduce it by mines and
batteries, and strove to carry it by storm ; but the
mines were found to be ineffectual, on account of
the many springs which broke in upon them. The
besiegers made an unsuccessful attempt to -draw the
moat ; and at length, on the 25th of October, 1644,
the Earl of Northampton, with a party of the king's
horse from Newbury, crime to the relief of the place.
The enemy retired hastily, and dispersed in the
neighbourhood of Hanwell, Cropredy, Broughton,
and Compton. The castle was again besieged in
KUb', by Colonel Whaley, who lay before it ten
weeks ere the governor would hearken to any terms ;
but at length a surrender was judged expedient, and
the governor acceded to honourable conditions on
the 8th of May."
The town received its first charter of incorpora-
tion from Queen Mary, in consequence of the at-
tachment to her cause manifested by the inhabitants.
This was renewed by James I. with some additional
privileges. The existing charter was granted by
George I. The corporation consists of twelve alder-
men and six capital burgesses, by whom the member
of parliament is elected.
Here is not any staple manufacture of consequence,
but the inhabitants are extensively engaged in trade.
The Canal being a source of mucb commercial ad-
vantage, one or two private wharfs have been con-
structed.
The manor of Great Bourton, three miles north of
Banbury, was bestowed by Henry VIII. on Christ
Church.
The village of Cropredy, four miles N. by E.
from Banbury, acquires an interest from a battle
which took place them in the civil war of Charles.
At Clattercot, six miles N. from Banbui y, are
some remains of a monastery, dedicated to St. Leo-
nard.
At Charlbury, 6| miles W.N.W. from Woodstock,
the glove manufactory is carried on to a considerable
extent.
Blandford Park, formerly termed Conibury, in
K " this
OXFORDSHIRE.
this neighbourhood, was the seat of Henry Danvers,
Earl of Danby. It was purchased, some years ago,
by the Duke of Marlborough, and is now the occa-
sional residence of the Duke of Beaufort. The
mansion is nearly in the centre of a spacious park.
BINPIKLP.] — The hundred of Biufield is bounded
On the south and east by the River Thames, which
separates 'Oxfordshire and Berkshire. It is in the
Chiltern district, and is more hilly than any other
part of the county. The basis of the hills is chalk,
with a surface of loam ; but, where the hills recede,
the soil is often a fine sandy loam.
This hundred contains the market town of Henley,
and the parishes of Bix, Caversham, Eye and Duns-
den, llarpsden, with Bolney ; Rotherfield Grays,
Rotheifield Peppard, and Shiplakfe.
Henley-on-Thames, 24 miles S. E. from Oxford,
and 35 W. from London, is supposed to have been
inhabited by the Ancalites, who submitted to Cassar.
Plot considers Henley to be the most ancient town
in the county, as the name is compounded of the
British Hen, ' old,' and ley, ' a place.' The town
was once called Hanlegang, and Hanneburg. It is
clean and cheerful ; and the houses in the principal
street are handsome and capacious. The more anci-
ent buildings in the several minor avenues, are mean
and incommodious ; but the beauty of the situation
has induced many private families to construct orna-
mental houses ; and the prosperity of the town is
evinced by the improvements progressively taking
place in the habitations of traders of every rank. —
Henley is entered from the London road over a
handsome bridge of five arches, built of Headington
stone, and finished in 1786. The key-stone on each
face of the centre arch is adorned with a sculptured
mask, from the chissel of the Hon. Mrs. Darner, who
resided some time in the neighbouring seat termed
Park-place. The views from the bridge are parti-
cularly fine. There was a stone bridge here at a
very early period : a bridgo of wood was then con-
structed, which remained till the date of the present
erection. — The church is a handsome Gothic struc-
ture, near the entrance of the town. The tower is
lofty, and at each angle is a taper octangular turret,
which surmounts the battlements of the tower to a
considerable height. On the north of the commu-
nion-table are indications of the original altar, with
two canopied niches, in one of which is the recess
used for the eucharist. — To the north of the chancel
* John Lnngland, Bishop of Lincoln, and William Lcnthal,
were natives of this place.— The former was confessor to Henry
VIII. and was promoted to the See of Lincoln, in 1520. He
was one of the most popular preachers of his day, and he
actively promoted the divorce between Henry and Queen
Catharine. lie died in the year 1547. William Lenthal is
believed to have received the early part of his education at
Thame school, whence he was removed to Alban Hall, Ox-
ford. After a residence of three years at Oxford he proceeded
to London, and studied the law as a profession. In 1640, he
was returned burgess for Woodstock, in the short Parliament
which sat scarcely five weeks. The house divided on the king's
is a large receding burial-place, built by the family
of Elmes, who formerly resided at Bolney-Court,
and possessed much property in the county. The
following lines appear over the remains of Mr. Elmes
and his lady : —
This Elme, in years and worth well growne,
Death at the appointed time cut dozens.
The ivy fades, her propp once gone ;
Thus fallne, both lye under this stone.
But lye, afresh to spring, grow, spread,
When every tree shall rise that's dead.
A handsome monument to the memory of Lady Eli-
zabeth Periam, the benefactress to Baliol College,
Oxford, with her effigies in a half recumbent pos-
ture, appears in the chancel. — In the vestry are many
of the valuable books collected by the accomplished
and urbane Dean Aldrich, rector of Henley, who
died in 1737. The whole was bequeathed by the
Dean, as the foundation of a parochial library. All
the parishioners who are liable to church rates, have
free access to the library, and are permitted to take
home any volume, on signing a promise, in a book
kept for that purpose, to restore it without damage.
The Town-hall, on an elevated spot in the High-
street, is a neat building, completed in 1796.
Beneath the hall is a commodious piazza, used as a
market-house. Here is a well-built meeting-house
for Independents. — A small Theatre is tolerably
well attended for a few weeks in the year. Here is
a Book Society supported by subscription, which,
besides purchasing the most desirable periodical
publications, expends nearly 100/. a year in works
of a more durable nature. — The town contains two
Free-School foundations ; for one of which it is
indebted to James I. and for the other to Lady Eli-
zabeth Periam : they are now united under one
master. — Here is also an alms-house, founded and
endowed by John Longland, Bishop of Lincoln, in
remembrance of his birth-place.
This town has no staple manufacture; but the
inhabitants are much engaged in malting for the
London market, and in such commercial interchanges
as are common to every provincial town. — The town
is well paved and lighted.
Henley is governed by a high steward, recorderj
mayor, ten aldermen, and sixteen burgesses. The
existing charter of incorporation was granted in.
1722.*
proposition respecting a substitute for ship-money, when Ser-
jeant Glanville, the speaker, left the chair, and Lenthal was
called to it by a majority. When the long Parliament met, in
; the same year, Lenthal was chosen speaker ; and, in 1643, he
! was made master of the rolls, which he held till the Restora-
i tion. In 1646 he was appointed one of the commissioners of
| the great seal ; and, in the same year, he, at the head of 30(X
i members, waited on Fairfax, in consequence of that general's
numerous successes, and di-Jivered a gratulutory speech, which
was afterwards printed and spread through every district of the
island. On the Restoration he was excepted from the act of
, indemnity, but afterwards obtained a general pardon.
k Hargsdea.
OXFORDSHIRE.
Harpsden Court, the seat of Thomas Hall, Esq.
is situated about one mile south of Henley. The
mansion is placed on too low a site for a command
of the scenery around ; but is much adorned by the
beech-covered hills which protect it in nearly every
direction. It formerly possessed two courts, and is
said to have contained several halls. Three sides
of one court only remained when the present pro-
prietor came to the estate ; and, though two of
these, comprising' thirty-four rooms, have since been
removed, enough is preserved to constitute a hand-
some residence. — In a wood, near the house, is a
small circumvallation, near which, Roman coins have
been found. — Contiguous to the mansion stands
Harpsden church, an humble building, with a
wooden turret. In a recess, on the right of the
chancel, is an effigy, in stone, the legs crossed, and
the feet resting on a dog. From the want of armour,
and from the circumstance of the sword being only
partly drawn, this, probably, was a knight who had
dedicated his service to the war in the holy-land,
but died before he could accomplish his intention.
Shiplake, three miles S. from Henley, contains a
number of rural tenements, agreeably scattered
among the hills of this unequal district. The church
is a respectable ivy-crowned Gothic structure, on
an eminence bordering on the Thames. It contains
several ancient monuments of the Blundens and
Plowdens ; and a plain mural tablet exhibits a me-
morial of the Rev. Mr. Granger, author of the Bio-
graphical History of England, who long discharged
the vicarial duties of this parish. The vicarage is
separated from the church-yard only by a narrow
rural lane. — Beneath the ancient manor-house of
Shiplake, not far distant from the vicarage, was a
spacious crypt, with a groined roof, and two sepa-
rate aisles, or avenues, distinctly marked. The house
was pulled down, a few years ago, and the stone
work of the crypt disposed of as common lumber. —
On Shiplake Hill is the seat of Lord Mark Kerr,
third son of the Marquis of Lothian, which commands
rich views over the vale of Reading, and the more i
distant parts of Berkshire. — At the bottom of a '.
pond on Binfield Heath, in this parish, have been
found many oak trees, quite firm and sound, but
dyed throughout as black as ebony. On the same
heath is one of the geological phienomena, termed i
Swallows, into which the land-flood waters flow and j
disappear.
Bell Ha(ch, near Binfield Heath, is the retired
residence of John Hanscomb, Esq.
Crowsley Park is the seat of John Atkyns Wright, '
Esq. The house is a brick building, ornamented
with an embattled parapet and square towers. The
park is well stocked with deer, and enriched with
oaks.
Caversham, on the banks of the Thames, is one
mile and a half N. from Reading, in Berkshire. The
church, built of flint, and covered with plaister, is of
different ages. Here is preserved a proclamation of
King James, appointing certain days for persons
diseased with the evil to receive the royal touch.
The canons of Nottely, in Buckinghamshire, had a
, cell here, and some fragmentary remains of their
chapel may still be traced near the bridge. In this
i chapel, we are told by Dr. London, one of the visi-
1 tors appointed by Henry the Eighth, was a famous
relic, "an angel with one wing, which brought to
Caversham the spear-head that pierced our Saviour
on the Cross !" also a foundation attached to the
church, termed Our Lady's Chapel. When the town
of Reading was besieged by the Parliamentarian
! force during the civil war, this village shared largely
i in the calamities of the neighbourhood, and was, in
one instance, the theatre of a skirmish of some con-
sequence.— In the ground attached to the cottage of
Mr. Williams, on Caversham Hill, a mineral spring
was discovered in the year 1803 ; the water of which
is saturated with iron, held in solution by the car-
bonic acid gas.
Caversham Lodge is the seat of C. Marsac, Esq.
The ancient house in which Anne of Denmark,
Queen of James the First, was entertained, and in.
which King Charles the First was permitted to have
an interview with his children, was nearer to the
Thames than the present structure. In the front of
the mansion were three avenues of trees, the centraf
of which was called the Queen's Walk, in remem-
brance of Anne of Denmark. A second was termed
the King's Walk, in honour of Charles the First. —
The whole of the grounds attached to the house
consist of about five hundred acres. These were
laid out in their present beautiful form by Lord
Cadogan, with the assistanceof the celebrated Brown.
Rotherfield Peppard, is four miles W. by S. from
Henley. — Under a pond near Blount's Court, in
this parish, were found, in 1675, several oak trees.
It appears that the labourers, on cleansing the pond
for the benefit of the soil, came to the top branches
of a large tree. Mr. Stonor, to whom the pond
belonged, then caused a pit to be dug, about twenty
yards over, and fifty or sixty feet deep. By thus
penetrating the soil the workmen extricated many
whole oaks, ' whereof,' says Plot, 'one stood upright,
pendicular to the horizon ; the others lay obliquely ;
only one was inverted, the forked end downward.
Beside the trees, all along as the labourers dug, they
mot with plenty of hazel nuts, from within a yard of
the surface of the bottom of the pit, which Time's
iron teeth had not yet cracked. The oaks had none of
them any roots, but were plainly cut oil' at the kerf,,
as is used in felling timber ; and, near the bottom
of the pit, were found a large stag's head, with the
brow-antlers as sound as the beam itself, and two
Roman urns, both of which were broken by the in-
curious workmen.' Plot's conjecture, that these
oaks had been employed by the Romans, when they
left the country, to fill up a silver mine, seems un-
worthy of notice.
Rotliorfield Grays, 2^ miles W. by S. from Hen-
ley, acquires its distinctive appellation from John de
Grey, created Baron Grey in the 25th oi' Edward
the
OXFORDSHIRE.
the First. Here the noble family of Grey buiU an
extensive and castellated mansion, same part of
which yet remains, and is attached to the present
edifice, termed Greys Court. — The church is a neat
and spacious structure, with a wooden turret — In
the chancel is a stone, with brasses, commemorative
of Sir Robert de Grey, who died in 1387. — In a
spacious recess, on the north of the chancel, is the
burial-place of the Banbury family. Over the vault
is a monument of exuberant workmanship, raised by
William Lord Knollys, Viscount Wallingfurd, and
Earl of Banbury. — In the same recess is a mural
tablet, with an urn at the top, and the family arms
beneath, to the memory of Sir Thomas Stapleton. —
The font of this church is Saxon.
Bagmoor, rather less than a mile on the north-
west of Henley, is the residence of Joseph Grote,Esq.
BLENBEIM.] — See Wootton.
BLOXHAM.] — The hundred of Blpxham, which lies
to the north of Chadlington, is separated from Nor-
thamptonshire on the east by the Charwell. Here
is very little wood ; but the district is watered
by numerous streams and rivulets, which bestow
fertility on considerable tracts of pasture. — This
hundred comprises the township of East Adderbury ;
the ehapelries of Barford St. John, Bodicot, Horn-
ton, .Mollington : and the parishes and hamlets of
West Adderhury, Alkerton, North and South Blox-
hana, Broughton, Drayton, Hanwell, Horley, Mil-
eomhe, Milton, North Newington, Sibtbrd-Ferris,
Sibford - Govver, Tadmarton, Wiggington, and
Wroxton, with Balscott. — The village of Bloxbam,
which gives name to the hundred, is of considerable
extent, on the high road between Chipping-Norton
and Banbury, 2| miles S. W. by S. from the latter
town. The church, a handsome building, has its
west door ornamented with some curious carving,
on the subject of the Day of Judgment.
In the neighbouring village of Tadmarton, is the
large circular site of a castrametation; and, at a little
distance, on the north-west, are some smaller works,
approaching to a sqitare. It appears doubtful whe-
ther these works are of Roman, Saxon, or Danish
origin. — In Swacliff parish, is a double intrench-
ment, called IVjadmason Custle ; thought by some
to be the re-mains of a Roman town.
Broughton Castle, belonging to the Lord Vis-
count Say and Sele, three miles W. S. W. from
Banbury, is surrounded by a broad and deep moat,
over which is a stone bridge of two arches. The
eastern side of the castle is the more ancient part,
and was, probably, erected by the Broughtons, in
the reign of one of the early Edwards. In the
window of the chapel are some very antient arms.
The apartments of the castle were, a few years
ago, deprived of their furniture. — On felling a large
beech tree in this domain, about 12 or 15 years
ago, a gold ring was found deposited beneath it.
On the ring was engraved a knight, with bis legs
prossed, and a shield with the arms of St. John of
Jerusalem. Upon a scroll was this legend, in Nor-
man French; " Joie sans ni cesse :" 'Joy without
ceasing.' This ring was lately in the possession of
Lady Say and Sele. — In Broughton church are
buried several of the Twisleton family, who succeed-
ed to the female barony of Say and Sele, by in-
termarriage with the family of Fiennes. In the
chancel are the fragments of a superb monument,
supporting the recumbent figures of a knight and
his lady. There are several other old monuments in
the church.
Alkerton, formerly Aulkrynton, six miles W.
N. W. from Banbury, was the property of Christian
Lydiat, father of the unfortunate Timothy Lydiat.*
At Wroxton, three miles W. N. W. from Ban-
bury, was a priory of canons regular of St. Angus-
tin, founded in the reign of Henry the Third. On
the site, is an extensive mansion, the residence of
the Earl of Guilford. The greater part of the
structure was erected by Sir William Pope, after-
wards Earl of Downe, in 1618. This mansion is
enriched by many ancient portraits of the families of
Pope and North. The gardens and pleasure-ground*
remain in their monastic state.
Wroxton church contains many interesting monu-
ments.
The adjoining parish of Drayton was formerly
possessed by Sir Giles Arden, Knight. The Earl
of Guilford is now proprietor of the larger part ;
the remainder belongs to the Duchess of Dorset,
as .heiress of the Copes of Hanwell. t — The Gre-
viles constructed a mansion of some importance on
the
* He was born at Alkerton, and applied, at an early period,
to mathematics and astronomy. Some of the first scholars did
not scruple to rank him with Lord Verulam. lie was patro-
nized by Prince Henry, son of James the First ; and, after the i
death of this prince, he went to Ireland, under (he pro'ection of
Archbishop Usher. On his return to England he married that
primate's SL-,Ur, and settled at Alkerton, where he accepted the
rectory, of which his father was patron. Having become secu-
rity to a large amount for a relation, he was thrown into priscn,
whence he was released by the generosity of some friends. The
Parliament party injured him deeply at'the commencement of
the civil war; and h£ passed the close of his life at Aikerton, in
poverty and obscurity. He was buried in the church, and an
inscription, wiiith merely informed the reader that he was the
" faithful pastor of that church," was painted on (he wall. In
tl*e church-yard are many grave-stones to the Lydiat family.
-\ Part of this estate appears to have come into Lord Guit-
ford's family by the mairiage of Francis, the second Lord Guil-
ford, with one ol the daughters of Fulk Grevile, Lord Brooke.
— "Concerning Lodowick Grevile, lord of this manor in the
time of Elizabeth, is (old the following curious story. He was
a man of expensive habits, and greatly injured his property by
overbuilding, at Mount Grevile, Warwickshire. To recruit his
purse, he drew a pan for the murder of a rich farmer, named
Webb, who was one of his tenants at Drayton. He invited his
intended victim to make merry with him, either at Christmas of
Easter, and then bribed two servants to strangfe him in bed.
He gave out that the old man was sick, and in danger of dying;
The minister was sent fortomake his will: one of the murderers
was put in bed with the corpse, the curtains were drawn close,
and the murderer acted the part of the supposed dying person,
and signed, in his name, a will, by which Hie whole of VV< bb's
property
OXFORDSHIRE.
the south-cast of the church of Drayton ; the frag-
ments of which have been converted into u poor-
house.— The church contains several memorials of
the family. — Tradition states, that a pavement of
fine-coloured tiles, and a bath, were discovered,
some years ago, in the vicinity of the former seat
of the Greviles. Roman coins have also been found
at Drayton.
At Han well, three miles N. W. by N. from Ban-
bury, are still some slight remains of an ancient
manor-house. — On the north side of the chancel of
the church is a very handsome monument, support-
ing the recumbent effigies of a baronet and his lady.
A Latin inscription, placed on three tablets, in-
forms us that the tomb was constructed for Sir
Anthony Cope, Knight and Baronet, who died in
1614, at the age of 06.
At Bodicot, If mile S.by. E. from Banbury, was
born, in 1610, the celebrated mathematician, John
Kersey, author of a Treatise on Algebra, an improv-
ed edition of Wuigate's Arithmetic, &c.
. At Adderbury, rather more than two miles north
of Ddddington, Knyghton says, in a council of
bishops, held MCCXIX, in Oxford, a blasphemous
impostor, who assumed the name, and pretended to
the wounds of Jesus, was condemned to be cruci-
fied. This extensive village possesses some build-
ings connected with interesting particulars. Near
the green, stands the ancient mansion of the Cobb
family, its venerable walls pressing forward to the
last stage of decay. — At a short distance, formerly
stood the superb mansion of the Duke of Buccleugh,
an edifice which has been reduced by J. E. Field,
Esq. from a magnitude adequate to the residence of
royalty, to the limits of a commodious modern build-
ing. The house commands a fine, though not an
extensive prospect, to the south. Within these once-
splendid walls resided the notorious Wilmot, Earl
of Rochester. Many of the spouts attached to the
mansion bore his initials and coronet ; and the mag-
nificent state-bed, which formed a part of his furni-
ture, is now in possession of Mr. Field. — In the
western division of the village is the respectable
residence of J. Barber, Esq. who has a valuable i
little collection of portraits, among which are three ]
supposed to be unique : Sir Samuel Luke, the Hero !
of Hudibras, his wife and son. — Adderbury church j
is a fine Gothic1 structure, with a steeple about 160
feet in height. — Here are the remains of a spacious
rood-loft, with its attached staircase. In the chan-
cel is an elegant monument to the memory of Dr.
Oldys, who was waylaid by some soldiers of the
Parliament army, and shot at the top of this village,
property was left to Lodowick Grevile, except a legacy to an
attorney at Banbury, whose interference was apprehended.
When this .was done, it was reported that Webb's sickness in-
creased, anil be expired. — This representation met with some
cred't; Nfoiie of the murderers soon talked indiscreetly at a
neighbouring public house/ Fearful of discovery, the master
sent both his accomplices out one dark night on pretended busi-
ness. The less loquacious of the two tlie/i murdered the other,
VOL. IV, — NO. 146.
in the road leading to Banbury. In the chuVch-yard.
is the monument of Dr. William Bew, Bishop of
Llandaff, who died in 1705, having formerly been
vicar of Adderbury. At the free-school of this vil-
lage, (of which his father was master,) was born, in
1620, John Cole, author of " The Art of Stapling,"
and " Adam in Eden, or Nature's Paradise."
The church of Barford St. John's, or Little Bar-
ford, 2 1 miles N. W. by W. from Deddington serves
as a chapel of ease to Adderbury. It appears to
have been re-edified about the reign of Edward the
Third.
Wiggington church, 5£ miles W.N.W. from Ded-
dington, is a plain neat building, recently new paved
and pewed. In the chancel are two recumbent
effigies : one of these displays a knight, in the 'act
of unsheathing his sword ; the other is concealed
from view. On the other side of the north wall is a
piece of ancient sculpture, representing a man and
two children, one male, the other a female, witli their
hands folded in attitude of prayer. — Nearly on the
east of the church, at the distance of about 300
yards, are some remains of a tesselated pavement ;
in the vicinity of which, coins of the Emperor Con-
stantine have been found.
BUI.LINGTON.] — The hundred of Bullington is
bounded, on the eastern part, by the city of Oxford,
and its western extremity is watered by the Char-
well. It is watered by the Thame on the east and
south-east ; and by several minor streams in the more
central divisions ; in consequence of which, it is par-
ticularly rich in meadow and pasture. The arable
land varies extremely ; different soils being often
found in the same parish. In the neighbourhood of
Stanton St. John are extensive woods, called the
Quarters ; and spots of woodland are likewise found
in several other parts. — This hundred contains the
ohapelry of Studley with Horton, and the following
parishes, &c. : — Aldbury, Ambrosden, Anicott, Bal-
don - Marsh, Baldon-Toot, Beckloy, Blackthorn.
Chilworth, Chippinghurst, St. Clements, Church
Cowloy, with Temple Cowley, Cuddesden, Den»
ton, Elsfield, Forcsthill, Garsingtou,' Headington,
llolton, Horsepath, Ifley and Hockmoor, Little-
more, Marstan, Nnneham-Courtenay, Piddingtorj,
Sandtbrd, Shotover, Stanton St. John's, Stowwood,
Tiddington, Water- Perry, Whcatley, and Wood-
Eaton.
Headington, 2| miles E.N. E/frotn Oxford, i$
said to have been chosen by several of the Saxon
monarchs as a nursery for their children, on account
of the peculiar salubrity of the air. It appears
also to have contained a royal palace in the time
according to a contract -made with his master, and Iht'ew the
body into a pit. TLe corpse was afterwards found, and the
assassin confessed his guilt. Both the master and servant were
tried for their reiterated offences at Warwick. Grevile refused
to plead ; and, as he persisted in standing mute, lie was consigned
to the fate formerly usual in such cases, and was pressed to
death."
<s of
70
OXFORDSHIRE.
uf Etheldred. It possessed, for many ages, a free
chapel^ exempt from all customs due to the Bishop
of Lincoln and Archdeacon of Oxford. In a field
called Court-close, considerable traces of founda-
tions are said to have remained in the seventeenth
century ; and, only a few years ago, similar deno-
tations of a former massive building were discovered,
on clearing a fish-pond in the same field. The vil-
lage, agreeably situated on an elevation, contains
some respectable buildings, the most conspicuous of
which is the residence of T. H. Whorwood, Esq.
lord of the manor. — The church is ancient. In the
church- yard is the loi'ty shaft of a cross. — A part of
the deep hollow -way which leads from Headington
to Oxford, is thought to have been in the line of a
brannh of a Roman road. — At the distance of about
half a mile from Headington is a free-stone quarry,
of considerable extent and utility.
Marstoh, If mile N. N. E. from Oxford, was long
the residence of the Croke family. The ancient
manor-house is now partly used as a granary. The
church is a pleasing Gothic building. Near the porch
are the mutilated fragments of a cross ; and, in
another part of the church-yard, are the remains
of a 'second cross, with three ranges of kneeling
places.
Elsfield, 3J miles N. E. by N. from Oxford, gave
name to a family, of whom Gilbert de Elsfield, at-
tained much celebrity in the reign of Edward the
First. — The grass-grown street of this village evin-
ces its thinness of population, and absence from the
haunts of traffic.
At Wood Eaton, four miles N. N. E. from Oxford,
is the residence of J. Weyland, Esq. Sir R. Taver-
ner, who obtained a licence, under favour of the
Protector Somerset, to preach, though a layman,
lived, and also died, here, in 1575. — In 1676, there
were found here, on removing some old foundations,
two British coins. Some Roman urns have also
been discovered here.
At Forest Hill, five miles E. N. E. from Oxford,
Wilton married his first wife, Mary, daughter of Rich-
ard Powell. Some parts of Mr. Powell's house are
still remaining. Many cottages in this little village
are adorned with vines and honey-suckles. The
church, near the summit of the hill, is rendered
picturesque by the yew-trees in the yard, and the
ivy which overhangs the walls. The stone font is
protected by a handsome wooden cover : on it are
inscribed the names of several young men, who
effected the purchase with the money collected at a
Whitsun-ale, in 1710. — At a short distance stands
Shotover House, a spacious modern mansion, of
stone, surrounded by woodland, the seat of George
Schutz, Esq. Mickle, the translator of the Lusiad,
resided some time in this neighbourhood.
Wheatley, distant from Oxford 5f miles E. by S.
is imbedded among a group of hills. Near the
village is Holton Park, the seat of Edmund Biscoe,
Esq. The old mansion was encompassed by a moat ;
the present edifice of stone, occupies a different site,
and is deeply secluded and embowered on one side,
while the other commands an extensive prospect.
At Water-Perry, 5| miles W. from Thame, is the-
residence of Henry (Jurzon, Esq. whose family has
long been resident in Oxfordshire. Many of its
members, buried in Water-Perry church, are com-;
memorated by brasses, and by paints in the windows.
In the church is an ancient stone, said to have been
brought from Osney Abbey. Inarched in a wall of
the aisle lies a knight templar.
At Cuddesden, six miles W. by N. from Tets-
worth, stands Cuddesden Palace,, the episcopal resi-
dence of the bishops of Oxford. It is a commodious
rather than a splendid mansion: 'After Gloucester
Hall, the first residence appropriated to the bishops,
was resumed by the crown, Dr.-Bancroft constructed
an episcopal seat here. The king contributed a large
quantity of timber from the forest of Shotover ; and
the palace, with a chapel in it, was finished in 1635.
When Oxford became the fortified residence of the
king during the civil war, Colonel Legg, the gover-
nor, feared that the bishop's palace might be used as
a garrison for the Parliamentary forces ; and, under
that apprehension, the edifice was burned to thfr
ground. At the same time Sir Thomas Gardiner
destroyed a house belonging to himself, on the south
side of the church. Dr. Fell, Bishop of Oxford, at
his own cost, rebuilt the edifice on its old founda-
tion, with a chapel in it as before. The outside was
completed in 1679, and the interior shortly after. — In.
Cuddesden church, is buried Dr. John Bancroft,
Bishop of Oxford.
At Garsington, 5| miles S. E.by E.from Oxford,
a house was built, by Sir T. Pope, founder of Trinity
College, Oxford, for the accommodation of his stu-
dents when the plague prevailed in the University.
On a screen, in the church, are the arms of Sir T.
Pope.
Ifley, two miles S. E. by S. from Oxford, is re-
markable for its church, which is an interesting
specimen of Saxon architecture. The font also is
Saxon, and very large.
At Sanford, 3} miles S. S. E. from Oxford; the
church is an humble building, of Norman archi-
tecture. On the north side of the altar is an image
of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, which was
found in 1723, with the face downwards, near the
entrance of the church. It had, probably, remained
there since the reformation. Here was a precep-
tory of Templars, founded by Maud; wife of King
Stephen. — Near Sandford was a Benedictine nun-
nery, founded before the time of Henry the- Second;
Some remains are still to be seen in the premises
attached to a farm-house. The seal of the nunnery,
' a man in a gown, with flowing hair, was found by a
farmer, about the year 1762.
Nuneham - Courtenay, the seat of the Earl of
Harcourt, is 5£ miles S. S. E. from Oxford. At
the Norman Survey, the manor belonged to Richard
de Cursi : afterwards to the family of the Riparys,
or Redvers. Mary, youngest daughter of William
*
OXFORDSHIRE.
71
de Redvers, Earl of Devon, married Robert de
Courtenay, Baron of Okehampton, in 1214. By
this marriage, it is supposed, the manor was car-
ried into the family of Conrtenay, and there as-
sumed the name of Nuneham -Courtenay. From
David, Earl of Wemys, it was purchased, in 1710,
by Simon, first Lord Harcourt, Lord Chancellor of
England. The park contains near twelve hundred
acres, and evinces great richness of nature im-
proved by art. Brown assisted in the arrangement
of the grounds. From various points are obtained
views of the Witenham Hills, of a part of Bucking-
hamshire, and the high elevations above the vale of
White Horse. The house is situated on the slope
of a hill, and the front placed towards the ascent.
Thus all striking beauty of approach is forbidden ;
but groupes of spreading elms are united to the
building by side-skreens of shrubbery, and impart
a powerful effect of contrast to the extensive views
commanded by the back-front of the edifice. The
front is a handsome stone elevation, with projecting
wings, joined to the body by inflected corridores.
The vestibule is small, but ornamented by some good
casts of antique statues. Nearly every room and
corridore of the mansion contains valuable paintings,
•which it is impossible for us to enumerate. The
saloon, thirty feet by sixteen, and eighteen and a
half high, is hung with green damask. — The library
is thirty-two feet four by nineteen. The books are
not numerous, but of sterling character ; and the
portraits are, in many instances, peculiarly valuable
by the connection which .existed between the origi-
nals, and former representatives of the bouse of
Harcourt. — The eating- room is a handsome apart-
ment, thirty-three feet by twenty-four. The windows
command fine views over the Isis, with the majestic
turrets of Oxford in the distance. The chimney-
piece, of statuary marble, was designed by Stuart.
• — TheOctagon drawing-room, thirty feet by twenty-
four, is hung with scarlet cloth ; the doorways and
ceiling whitened, with interspersed carvings and
gilding. — The great drawing-room is forty-nine feet
by twenty-four. The ceiling is divided into com-
partments by broad and bold mouldings, carved and
gilt, from a design of Stuart. The chimney-piece
of statuary marble is very elegant, and designed by
Paul Sandby. — The state bedchamber is thirty-two
feet four by twenty feet six, and fourteen feet four
inches high. — The table in the dressing-room was a
present from the Princess Royal, on quitting Eng-
land. It is embellished with a basket of flowers,
drawn on vellum, in Indian ink, by Her Royal High-
ness.— " In the tapestry-room, the hangings are sup-
posed to present the earliest specimen extant of the
art of tapestry-weaving in England, which was in-
troduced by William Sheldon, in the reign of Henry
the Eighth. The tapestry is descriptive of three
large maps of the counties of Oxford,. Warwick,
and Worcester, and was presented by the Honour-
able Horace VValpole. The frieze is divided into
compartments, and enriched with Gothic shields,
bearing the arms and intermarriages of the Harcourt
family from its origin in 876. Over the doors are
two very ancient whole length pictures of St. Catha-
rine, and a male saint, which originally formed the
folding doors of an altar-piece. — In two- round
pannels are the arms of Robert Harcourt, Knight
of the Garter, in the reign of Edward the Fourth
and those of Robert, his grandson. In each angle
of the ceiling is a knight in armour, upon a horse,
caparisoned according to ancient usage, representing
four of the Harcourts, who by marriage added large
estates to the family possessions. This room was
built in 1787." The back front of the house is a
chaste elevation, with a bay window in the centre,
supported by pillars of the Ionic order. The gardens,
which contain thirty-eight acres, were laid outj (with
an exception of the flower-garden,) by Brown. In
these it has been the constant aim to assist nature by
art. A walk, constructed through the most interest-
ing parts, opens to a luxuriant and decorated cham-
paign, and winds through the recesses of a thick
grove, occasionally surprising the visitor by a dis-
play of rich and diversified prospect. Among other
embellishments is an urn dedicated to the memory
of Whitehead, the laureat, with the following in-
scription, by Mason :
Harcourt and friendship this memorial raise,
Near to the oak where Whitehead oft reclin'd,
Where all that nature, robed by art, displays,
With charms congenial sooth'd his polisli'd mind.
Let fashion's votaries, let the " sons of fire,"
The genius of that modest bard despise,
Who bade discretion regulate his lyre,
Studious to please, but scorning to surprise.
Enough for him, if those who shar'd his love
Through life, who virtue more than verse revere,
Here pensive pause, while circling round the grove,
And drop the heart-paid tribute of a tear.
Nuneham-Courtsnay church forms a noble orna-
ment to the pleasure-grounds. It was erected in
1764, at the expence of Simon, Earl of Harcourt,
after a design of his own, slightly corrected by
Stuart. The interior ornaments are two tablets,
with the Harcourt arms in French tapestry ; another
piece of tapestry representing the chiefs of the twelve
tribes of Israel at the Passover ; and an altar-pic-
ture by Mr. Mason, from the Parable of the Good
Samaritan. In the church is a b:irrel organ, on
which is set Mason's music for the responses to the
commandments, and his Sunday hymns. The ad-
joining flower-garden was entirely laid out according
to Mason's directions. It contains about an acre
and a quarter, and has no visible connection with
the pleasure-grounds. The boundary is formed by
a thick matting of shrubs, which unites with the
surrounding woodland of the park. The entrance
is from the path, which ascends towards the church,
beneath the pediment of a Doric gate, on which is
placed the following sentence from Rousseau, allu-
sive to the world of flowers : " Si 1'Auteur de la
Nature est grand dans les grandes choses, il est tres
grand dans les petitas." — Fronting the gate, and
backed.
72
OXFORDSHIRE.
backed by a mass of shrubs, is a bust of Flora, with
a suitable inscription from Chaucer. — A gravel walk,
enclosed with shrubs, leads to the right, when a view
soon opens to an irregular slope, enriched with tults
of flowers, seen beneath the branches of trees. The
walk continues between detached trees, till the eye
is confined on either side by a thick shrubbery, that
unites to the right with a plantation in the park.
On a rising bank is a statue of Hebe, with an inscrip-
tion, by Whitehead, as follows :
Hebe, from the cup divine,
Shed, O shed ! nectareous dews :
Here o'er Nature's living shrine
Th' immortal drops diffuse ;
Here, while ev'ry bloom's display'd,
Shining fair in vernal pride,
Catch the colours ere they fade.
And check the green flood's ebbing tide,
Till youtli eternal like thine own prevail,
Safe from the night's damp wing, or day's insidious gale.
Becoming narrower, the path passes through an
arched rock covered with ivy, which is designed in
imitation of a natural cavern. On one side, on a
piece of marble, are some appropriate lines from
Milton. The front of the grotto is partially con-
cealed by ivy and other creeping plants; and, through
an opening before it, is caught a glimpse of the
garden. From this spot is another opening to the
interior of the garden, and opposite to it is a bust
of Rousseau, with this inscription, by Sir Brook
Boothby.
Say, is thy honest heart to virtue warm ?
Can genius animate thy feeling breast ?
Approach, behold this venerable form,
5Tis Rousseau ; let thy bosom speak the rest.
The Temple of Flora is constructed after the de-
sign of a Doric portico at Athens. On the back
•wall is a medallion of Flora, from the antique, ac-
companied by some lines from Ariosto ; on one side
is a bust of Faunus ; and on the other that of Pan,
with suitable inscriptions from Whitehead, and
Milton. — Near this spot, in a recess, is a cinerary
urn, to the memory of Mason, inscribed as follows :
" The poet's feeling and the painter's eye,"
In this thy lov'd retreat we pleas' d descry.
Ah, Mason ! in the scene thy fancy drest
Oft shall the sigh of sorrow heave the breast ;
Oft recollection picture to the mind
The various talents that in thee werejoin'd.
And, while thy lofty genius well may claim
The brightest guerdon from the hand of fame,
Thy simple manners, that disdain'd all art,
Thy genuine piety that warm'd thy heart,
Thy steady friendship, justly might require
Numbers like those that once iniorm'd thy lyre.
Ah, fruitless wish! tor ever mute that strain,
And " Numbers worthy thee," we ask in vain.
The principal path, formed to embrace the whole
of the most captivating features of the garden,
reaches a bower, designed by Mason. The front,
consisting of three unequal arches, is painted green,
and covered with climbers. On one side is a bust
of Venus, thus inscribed : —
Thee, goddess ! thee the clouds and tempests fear,
And at thy pleasing presence disappear :
For thee the land in fragrant flow'ers is dress'd.
On the other side is a bust of Apollo, with the
following inscription, from Metastasio :
Lucido Dio,
Per cui 1' April fiorisce.
The interior presents a cast of Cupid and Psyche,
from the antique ; and, on a tablet, are the following
verses, by Andrew Marvell :
Fair quiet, have I found thee here,
With innocence, thy sister dear !
Mistaken long I sought thee then
In busy companies of men ;
Your sacred plants, at length, I know,
Will only in retirement grow.
Society is all but rude,
To this delicious solitude,
Where all the flowers and trees do close
To weave the garland of repose.
To the left, on a bank between two beeches, is a
bust of Prior, thus inscribed :
See, friend, in some few fleeting hours,
See yonder what a change is made !
Ah me ! the blooming pride of May,
And that of beauty, are but one ;
At morn both flourish, bright and gay,
Both fade at evening, pale and gone !
Within a recess in the shrubbery, surrounded by
evergreens, is placed on an altar a votive urn, in-
scribed as follows :
SACRED
To the Memory of FRANCES POOLE,
Viscountess Palmernton.
Here shall our ling' ring footsteps oft be found,
This is her shrine, and consecrates the ground.
Here living sweets around her allar rise,
And breathe perpetual iiiv-ense to the skies.
Here too the thoughUess and the young may tread,
Who shun the drearier mansions of the dead ;
May here be taught what worth the world has known.
Her wit, her sense, her virtues, were her own ;
To her peculiar, and for ever lost
To those who knew, ami therefore lov'd her, most.
O ! if kind pity steal on virtue's eye,
Check not the tear, nor stop the useful sigh ;
From soft humanity's ingenuous flame
A wish may rise to emulate her fame,
And some faint image oi her worth restore,
When those who now lament her are no more.
WHITEHEAIJ.
This urn was erected by George Simon Ilarcourt,
and the Honourable Elizabeth Veruon, Viscount
nd Viscountess Nunehaiu, in 1771. — A bust of
Dowley is thus inscribed :
Wlitm
OXFORDSHIRE.
73
When Epicurus to the world hat! taught
That pleasure as the chiefest good,
His life he to his doctrine brought,
And in a garden's shade that sovereign good he sought.
One to Locke has the following lines : —
Who made the whole internal world his own,
And shew'd confess'd to reason's purged eye,
That Nature's first best gift was liberty.
We have yet to mention the conservatory, which
is stored with orange trees of various kinds, planted
in the ground. The treillage of the back wall is
covered with exotic jessamines, &c.
In the village of Nuneham Courtenay, entirely
built by the noble family on whom it is dependent, the
houses are calculated for rustic labourers, and are
uniformly divided into pairs. Nearly in the centre
of one of the sides is a cottage-residence, of a supe-
rior character, intended for the officiating clergyman
of the parish. Here is a school, supported by the
Earl of Harcourt, and open to all the children of the
neighbourhood. It is conducted on the Lancasterian
plan.
liiil'lon, the seat of Lady Willoughby, placed on
a gentle knoll, is at the distance of half a mile from
Nuneham Courtenay.
CHADLINSTON.] — This hundred, divided from that
of Barapton by the Windrush, and bounded by
Gloucestershire on the west, approaches the county
of Warwick on the north. A considerable tract on
the south-east, is occupied by Whichwood Forest.
The remaining parts are chiefly stonebrash. The
hundred contains, besides the market town of Chip-
ping-Norton, the following parishes, hamlets, &c. :
Ascot, Bruerne, (extra parochial) East and West
Chadlington, Chastleton, Chilson, Pudlicott, Short-
ampton, Churchill, Carnwell, Church - Enstone,
Fifield, Fulbrook, Idbury, Kiddington (over), King-
ham, Langley, Leafield, Lyrieham, Milton, Minster
Lovel, North-moor, Hooknorton, (with Southrope)
Over Norton, Ramsden, Great and Little Roll-
wright, Salford, Saresden, Shipton under Winch-
wood, Spelsbury (with Dean,) Swerford, Swinbrook,
Toynton, and Walcot.
Chipping-Norton, 20 miles N. W. by N. from Ox-
ford, and 74{ N. W. by W. from London, is a place
of ancient mercantile consequence. The town is
built on the side of a considerable eminence. It is
thus exposed to the bleak winds which sweep over
Warwickshire, but, there are counter-balancing ad-
vantages. " The bracing air produces health ; the
shelving position enforces local cleanliness ; and the
height of foundation ensures a command of distant
and diversified scenery." The houses, chiefly of
stone, though far from regular, are frequently sub-r
sl.antial, and ornamental ; the whole town wearing the
face of quiet business and moderate prosperity.
The character of the domestic architecture improves
as the hill is ascended. " The more ancient part of
the town couches, for security from the north, 'among
VOL, iv. — HO. 116.
the recesses of a glen formed by various intersecting
hills ; and the buildings are as humble as (he situa-
tion. Above this is a narrow and ill-shaped thorough-
fare, the gloomy memorial of the state of English
provincial towns in the early part of the seventeenth
century. The wide and handsome street which sur-
mounts both these divisions is the work of compa-
ratively modern industry, and furnishes a pleasing
proof of the enlargement of idea, which is the result
of an increased facility of commercial speculation."
The church is a venerable Gothic pile, with an em-
battled tower on the west. The nave and chancel
are separated by a wooden screen ; but some remains
of the ancient rood loft are still visible. Between
the divisions once ornamented 'with statues is a
spacious window, of light and tasteful Gothic
masonry. — An altar tomb, in a recess to the north
of the chancel, supports the effigies of Richard
Croft, Esq. who died October 3d, 1502; and Agnes
his wife, who died in 1509. The monument and
effigies are of alabaster. There are many ancient
brasses and effigies, but the greater Dumber are ob-
scured or defaced by the pewing. — Adjoining the
north aisle is a building, intended as a burial place
for the family of Dawkins. — The furniture of this
church, is of a more homely character than becomes
the parochial place of worship in a town so flourish-
ing. A new font, lately erected, possesses no pre-
tensions to beauty. In a neglected' corner of the
building lies the ancient font, coveTed with dirt.
The Castle of Chipping-Norton stood to the north
of the church. The period at which it was raised,
is usually attributed to the reign of Stephen. It oc-
cupied an extensive plot of ground : the elevated
site of the keep is still apparent. The water which
supplied the fosse is now suffered to escape by nume-
rous petty channels. — In one of the narrow apertures
which lead from the church through the relics of the
more ancient part of the town, is a free school,
founded by Edward VI. and endowed with six
pounds a year. Near this is a range of almshouses,
comprising eight tenements for as many poor widows,
founded by Mr. Cornish, a native of this town, in
1610. A school was instituted a few years since for
about forty girls, who are partly clothed. The ex-
pences are defrayed by subscription.
Here was a monastic foundation, some remains
of which 'are to be seen near the entrance of the town
on the Woodstock side. — Under the shop of a house
in the High Street, are the well preserved remains
of a building which appears to have been used as a
chapel.
This town sent burgesses to parliament in the
90th of Edward I. and in tlie 32d and 33d of Ed-
ward III. but has not since possessed that privilege.
— A: coarse kind of woollen cloth, used for waggon-
tilts, &c. is made here with some success. — The
corporation consists of two bailiffs, twelve burgesses,
a town clerk, &c. — The town enjoys about two h'in-
drcd acres of common land, given by one of the
Fitzalans, Earls of Arundel.
T Over,
74
OXFORDSHIRE.
Over, or Upper Norton, a hamlet pleasingly situ-
ated on an elevation, and ornamented by the resi-
dence and extensive grounds of Mr. Dawkins, is
three quarters of a mile N. by E. from Chipping
Norton.
On the adjoining manor of Cold Norton was a
priory of Augustine canons, founded by William
Fitzalan, who died about the 19th of Henry II. No
vestige of the building can now be traced ; but a farm,
and a mill, still bear the name ot the priory.
At Chapel-liouse, an inn near the seventy-third
mile stone on the. Birmingham road, was an ancient
chapel used by pilgrims. Several stone coffins have
been discovered here, in one of which were found,
among the bones; a number of beads, and a crucifix
of silver.
We now come to the Rollrich, or Rowldrich,
Stones, the most curious memorial of antiquity in
this county, about three miles N. W. from Chipping-
Norton. " They are on an eminence which com-
mands extensive views over long and intersecting
ranges of hills, on every side except that towards
Long Compton, which village, with its attendant
phalanx of tall and far-spread elevations, is hidden
from the eye by a trivial, but abrupt brow of land.
The busy hands of an increased population have
denuded most of the elevations, and have softened
the monotonous gloom of each wide expanse of
heath ; yet still the monument stands in solitary
grandeur, amid scenes so profound, and immeasu-
rable to the eye, that they inspire a species of melan-
choly feeling, even while enriched by the verdure of
cultivation. — Rollrich Stones form a ring which is
not completely circular. The diameter from north
to south is about 35 yards, and from east to west
about 33. The original number of stones appears
to have been 60. But every age has assisted in the
work of mutilation and removal. There are now
only twenty-four that are more than one foot above
the level of the earth. These are of different de-
grees of elevation. Not auy are more than five feet
from the ground, except one, precisely at the north
point, which is seven feet four inches high, and of
an unequal but considerable breadth. The thickness
of the remainder is usually not more than 13 or 14
inches. At the distance of 84 yards north east from
: the circle, stands what is termed the King Stone.
This is about nine feet in height. On the east are
the remains of the Five Knights. These are believed
by Dr. Stukely to have formed a kistvaen. The
whole of the stones appear to have been taken from
a contiguous quarry, and to have been placed in
their present situation in a rude and unornamented
state. Those in the ring were apparently pitched so
close together, that Mr. Gale supposes they were
intended to form a compact wall. The entrance
seem* t9 have been on the north east, in a line with
the stone denominated the king. There are no marks
-of a surrounding trench, nor any of an avenue of
approach, as at Stonchenge and Abury. Stukely
mentions several barrows iu the close vicinity ; but
he appears to have bestowed this appellation on a
long and uneven bank, which was probably formed
by the rubbish removed from the quarry that pro-
duced the stones. In the 17th century Ralph Shel-
don, Esq. caused the area of the circle to be dug to
a considerable depth ; but no indications of sepulture,
or hints concerning the founder of this curious mo-
nument, were discovered." — According to the idle
tradition of the place, the whole assemblage is a
kind of petrified court. The person now converted
into the King Stone would have been King of Eng-
land if he could but have perceived Long Comp-
ton, which village can be clearly seen at the distance
of six yards from his base. The stones which com-
posed Stukely's kistvaen were five knights, attendant
on the majesty of the larger and solitary fragment.
The rest were common soldiers. — We have only to
remark, that the conjectures of historians and topo-
graphers are scarcely more satisfactory. — Camden
was inclined to believe Rollrich a memorial of some
victory, achieved by Hollo the Dane. Stukely, with
more probability, supposes Rollrich to bedruidical;
the name signifying Rholdrwyg, the wheel or circle
of the Druids ; or, in the old Irish, Roilig, the
church of the Druids. — These stones, however, give
name to two small villages, called in some records
Rollendrich, and styled in Domesday Rollendri.
They are now written Great and Little Rollwright.
Hooknorton, 5| miles N. E.by N. from Cbipping-
Norton, was held by Ela, or Ida, Countess of War-
wick, by the serjeantry of " carving before the King,
and to have the knife with which she carved." A
sanguinary battle was fought here between the Danes
and Saxons, in the early part of the 10th century.
Here is a barrow, probably formed by the Saxons
on the occasion.
At CHASTLETON, where John Jones, Esq. has a
venerable seat, is a large circular barrow, supposed
by Plot to have been cast up by the Danes about the
year 1016, " at which time Edmund Ironside met
Canutus, the Danish king, hereabouts, and defeated
him at a place called Sceorstan."
At Cornwall, four miles W. from Chipping-Nor-
ton, is the handsome seat of Frances Penystone,
Esq.
At Bruerne, 5| miles N. by E. from Burford, was
a Cistt-rtian monastery, founded in 1147. The Cope
family built a mansion here, which was accidentally
burned to the ground. The estate now belongs to
the Duke of Dorset.
At Lyneham, six miles N. N. E. from Burford,
is a large circular barrow, apparently Danish ; and,
between Chadlington and Saresden there is said to
have been an ancient camp, either Saxon or Danish.
At Swinbrook, 2-| miles E. from Burford, was a
mansion, now in ruins, in which the Fettiplaces re-
sided at leas;t four centuries. In the church, a small
but neat building, are many ancient monuments of
the Fettiplaces ; and numerous charities, in t!i»
neighbourhood^ perpetuate the memory of this rich
family!
Minster
OXFORDSHIRE.
Minster Lovel, 2| miles W. N. W. from Witney,
•was termed only Minster till the reign of Henry the
Fourth, when it assumed its additional appellation
from the noble family of Lovel, in whom the property
was vested till the early part of the reign ot Henry
the Seventh. Some fragments of the ancient cas-
tellated mansion are still remaining.— In this parish
was a priory, belonging to the Alien Monastery of
Ivery, in Normandy.
At Langley, five miles N. E. from Burford, it is
said there was a royal palace, built by King John.
At Shipton, four miles N. N. E. from Burford,
Sir John Reade, Bart, has a seat in this parish,
which has been the residence of his family nearly a
century.
Clracllington, which gives name to the hundred,
is a pleasing village, four miles S. S. E. from Chip-
ping-Norton, having a handsome residence at the
east, and another at the west end.
Church Enstone, comprising the hamlets of Clea-
velly, Lidstone, and Neat Enstone, is situated near
the high road between Woodstock and Chipping-
Norton. — The church is a spacious building, chiefly
of the Gothic of various ages, but the principal
entrance is by a Saxon doorcase. — At Road Enstone,
a part of this parish, so denominated from its conti-
guity to the highway, are some water-works, which
were constructed by a person of the name of Bushell,
who had -been servant to Lord Bacon. When Charles
the First and his queen visited this neighbourhood,
in 1636, Bushell submitted his performance to the
queen, and much pageantry, and many speeches and
songs, took place. The works remain nearly in the
same state as in the 17th century. They are of a
trivial character.
DORCHESTER.] — The hundred of Dorchester, sepa-
rated from that of E welme by the Thames, was much
more extensive at the Conquest than it is at present.
It formed a splendid and powerful see ; but, after
the Conquest, the see was removed to Lincoln ;
and the hundred now comprises only the following
parishes : — Burcott, Chistlehampton, Clifton-hamp-
den, Culham, Dorchester, Drayton, Sonthstoke,
(with the Liberty of Woodcot,) Stadhampton, ami
the hamlet of Fifield.
The town of Dorchester, nine miles S. E. by S.
from Oxford, though now depending chiefly on the
traffic of the high road on which it is situated, was
formerly a place of great interest and distinction ;
but, when the pomp of episcopal dignity was re-
moved, no local circumstances existed to stimulate
enterprise, or to ensure the attainment of affluence
to the exercise of industry. The place is termed by
Bede ' Civitas Dorciuia ;' by Leland, ' Hydropolis;'
a name, observes Camden, of his own inventing ;
but proper enough; 'Dour' signifying in Britain
' water.' The Thame flows near the town on the
east, and the grand stream, denominated Isis, on the
west; a junction taking place between the two at no
great distance. On the site of this town was a
Roman station, probably of extent and importance.
It seems to have retained some celebrity during the
ages immediately ensuing ; but it did not reach the
height of its prosperity till the seventh century,
when Birinus, sent from Rome by Pope Honorius to
convert the West Saxons, is said to have here first
preached to them the gospel. Birinus had already
baptized Cinegils, king, of that people, on which
occasion Oswald, King of Northumberland, attend-
ed as God-sib, or God-father ; and the two kings,
according to Bede, gave the bishop this town for
the foundation of an episcopal see, in honour of the
ceremony. The see was long of gigantic magni-
ficence, comprising the two large kingdoms of the
West Saxons and Mercians. Twenty bishops sat
here in almost papal grandeur ; and, though seven
bishoprics were at length taken out of it, the see
still continued the largest in England, till about the
year 1086, when Remigius removed it to Lincoln.
During the periods of its wealth and dignity, Dor-
chester was the seat of council with several mo-
narchs ; but it suffered much from the incursions of
various contending parties. — It is evident that its
chief splendour was confined to the Saxon ages, and
that it was not able to recover from the various
ravages committed by the Danes. About the reign
of Edward the Third, the town experienced some
accession of consequence from the construction of a
bridge over the Thame. The great road had pre-
viously passed through Wallingford. The traffic
was now divided ; but the inhabitants failed to derive
any important advantages from the circumstance. —
The town was encompassed by a wall, which llearne
traces "from Wally, half a mile north from the
church by the abbey spring called Collwell, at the
same distance from the town, where he places a fort.
On the east is the village of Warborough. The
walls run between Overey ; thence south, where the
great road now is, quite to the present town, and so
on to Dyke Hills." The foundations of the wall are
still frequently turned up by the plough in several of
these places, llearne says " we are sure, even after
the Conquest, there were at least four churches here,
three of which stood on the south, and south-west
sides of the Abbey church." On the north of the
town, in a piece of ground, termed the Farm-field,
may now be traced in dry summers, the foundations
of a building, which, by standing due east and west,
and by the proportions, appears to have been one of
these structures. — On the south side of the present
church stood a castle, of which every fragment has dis-
appeared.— To thesouth of thetownis a circular field,
supposed to have been an amphitheatre ; and, nearly
contiguous, is a farm-house, called Bishop's Court,^
and the Gyld. On the latter spot the bishop's palace-
formerly stood. On the north side, at the distance-
of about half a mile from the town, are some ditches,,
called All Ridge, or All Ditch Banks, supposed to
be the remains of some fortification made during the
struggles between the English and the Danes. The
most interesting relic is contained in the extensive
embankment termed Dyke Hills ; a double intrench-
inent,
70
OXFORDSHIRE.
nuent, about three quarters of a mile long, on the
south side of the town. Some Roman coins have
been turned up here. Indeed, this town and its
neighbourhood have afforded an abundant harvest
of coins and relics ; Roman money of gold, silver,
and brass, from Julius Caesar to Heraclius, having
been discovered in unusual plenty, with various
other interesting antiquities.
Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln, founded here in
11-10, an abbey of black canons. A part of this
building still remains, near the church. Some addi-
tions having been made to render it tenantable, it is
occupied by the master of a school instituted by the
Pettiplace family, for the education of six poor boys.
This town has only one church, a spacious and
handsome building, of the reign of Henry the Third.
It has a square and weighty, but rather low, west
tower, with turrets at three of the angles, and an
embattled parapet at the top. In the church-yard,
is a mutilated cross ; the shaft taper, and three
ranges of kneeling places at the base. On the north
side of the church are the traces of a cloister, which
formed a communication with the abbey. — The inte-
rior of the building is 231 feet from east to west, by
210 in width, including the aisles ; and the height
about fifty-five. Both the aisles have distinct marks
of an altar, and places for the holy water, &c. at the
cast end. — " The mullions of the north window of
the chancel are carved to represent a tree of sacred
genealogy. At the root lies the prostrate figure of
Jesse, and from his body the tree is made to pro-
ceed. On the branches are carved twenty-four
figures ; and at the top, beneath a rise of flowers,
was a figure of Jesus, long since removed. There
are, likewise, sixteen figures painted on the glass,
fifteen of which have a name appended. In the
compartments of the great east window, over the
communion table, are various paintings, describing,
in the old Saxon style, different passages in the
History of Birinus. — Under the south window of
the chancel are four canopied recesses ; three of
these were probably intended lor the reception of the
priest, deacon, and sub-deacon, during sonic parts
of the high mass performed in the chancel. The
fourth contains the piscina used for the washing, or
purifying1, of the hands ; and another receptacle for
water. The compartments of glass immediately
above are filled with paintings, one of which has
the inscription ' Sanctus Birinus' under the figure of
a bishop receiving a cross from a king, another king
standing behind. This, probably, represents the
investiture of Birinus by Cinegils, at which Oswald,
King of Northumberland, assisted. The colours of
this curious little piece are rich and vivid. The
chancel within (he rails is paved with glazed tiles,
and the wall, on both sides, has been painted with
various emblematical fi»'«n>s. The whole of these
pictorial embellishments have been long whitened
over : but the design may be easily traced through
fissures made by time in tlte covering. On the
third pillar from the entrance of (he church, is a
carving called the fire foolish virgins. This has
evidently formed the bracket to a statue. The sculp-
ture is much obliterated, and the design scarcely to
be ascertained. The virgins are in various postures,
sitting, kneeling, and crouching. Over the shoulders
of each seems the rude representation of a veil ; and
to one is united a small figure, thought to be an
angel sounding a trumpet."
Dorchester church contains the ashes of many
exalted churchmen, and other persons of rank. — On
the south side, in a part separated from the aisle by
a screen, is the mutilated figure in free-stone of a
bishop, which was dug from the northern aisle, and
is supposed to be bishop Aeschwine. Several ancient
tombs and effigies deserve inspection. — The font,
supposed to be of Birinus's time, has been said to
be the most ancient, and perhaps only one of its
kind, in the world. It is of cast lead. On the
sides the twelve apostles are represented, each ait-
ting in a separate stall. The figures are in tolerable
preservation, excepting the faces, which have received
some injury from wantonness. — In consequence of
the former privileges of the abbey, Dorchester church
has a peculiar jurisdiction over eleven parishes, and
is exempt from episcopal visitation.
A new bridge has recently been built with Head •-
ington stone, over the Thame, in such a direction a»
considerably improves the approach to the town,
while it frees the high road from an inconvenient
curve. — This bridge was opened for carriages, in
the month ot July, 1815. Its length is a quarter of
a mile, wanting eight yards ; its breadth thirty feet.
Part of its length is, in summer, apparently useless,
as the ample centre arch is then capacious enough
to admit the whole of the stream ; but the winter
rains swell this stream to a considerable river, which,
overflowing its banks, inundates the meadows on
eacli side its channel. The completion of the new
bridge was the signal of removing the old one ;
which was effected so rapidly, that in December,
1815, scarcely a vestige remained.
A quarter of a mile from the east end of the
embankment, termed Dyke Hills, is the conflux of
the Thame and Isis ; near which is a spot called the
Prince's Castle. Here Chaucer is by some said to
have had a residence.
At Culham, eight miles S. from Oxford, is the
neat modern residence of J. Philips, Esq. In the
vicinity was an annual horse-race, till a recent in -
closure placed the course under the plough.
Chistlehainpton, on the bank of the Thame, 7-f
milfs S. E. by E. from Oxford, is ornamented by the
mansion of Robert Peers, Esq.
EWELME.] — A great part of the hundred of
Ewelme, which lies to the north of Langtree, is yet
an open field, and contains great variety of soil. It
comprises the parishes, &c. of Great and Littlfi
Harseley, Holcorabe, (with Brockhampton,) Ben-
sington (with Crow-marsh-Battle,) Berwick-Salome,
Brightwell-Baldwin, Brightwell- Prior, Chalgrove,
Cuxham, Easington, Ewelme, Latcbford, Bycot and
Lobb
OXFORDSHIRE.
Lobb, Nettlebed, Newington (with Berwick Prior,)
Nuffield, Rafford, Swincombe, Warborough, and
Warpsgrove.
The village of Ewelme, anciently New Elme, is
10 miles N. W. by N. from Henley. Lcland thinks
that the appellation was derived " from a great pool
afore the manor-place, and elmes growing about
it."- The soil is extremely favourable to the growth
.of elm-timber ; and, from the frequency of such
trees in the neighbourhood, it seems probable that
the village obtained its name, unless it be ascribed
to the Saxon Ewelme, which signifies the ' head of
a stream.' It is a rural sequestered village, partly
built on an elevated spot, commanding fine and ex-
tensive views. Near the church is an ancient man-
sion, formerly the residence of Sir Edward Cope,
Bart, and afterwards of Sir Hildebrand Jacob. —
About the centre of the village is a chalybeate
spring, once in great request. The echo, and spring,
mentioned by Plot no longer exist. — At the foot of
the bill on which the church stands, rises a spring
that forms a small sheet of water, termed the King's
Pond, which meanders down the village of Bensing-
ton, through which it also passes, and runs into the
Thames between Bensington and Crowmarsh-Bat-
tle. — Subsequently to the Norman survey, the manor
of Ewelme formed a part of the property of the
Chaucers ; of whom the last male heir was Thomas,
son of Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet. Alice, the
daughter of Thomas, carried the estate by marriage"
to William de la Pole, Duke of Suffolk, by whom
the manor- place was built, about the year 1424.
Leland,who visited the spot in the sixteenth century,
says, " The Manor-place of Ewelme is in the Val-
ley of the Village ; the base court of it is fair, and
is builded of brick and tymbre : the inner part of the
house is set within a fair mote, and is builded richly
of brick and stone. The hall of it is fair, and hath
great barrs of iron overthuart it instead of cross
beams. The parlor by is exceeding fair and light-
some, and so be all the lodgings there. The com-
mon saying is, that Duke John made, about the
beginning of King Henry VII.'s tyme, most of the
goodly buildings within the mote. There is a right
fair park by the manor-place." — Of the "fair and
goodly palace" there now remains only an oblong
piece of building on the south side of the site. This
was used as a prison during the civil war of the
seventeenth century, and has been latterly tenanted
by a few ancient persons dependant on parochial aid.
The moat is no longer to be discerned ; and tbe
park has been for ages thrown into cultivation.
Ewelme church was rebuilt by William De La Pole
and bis duchess. On the south side of the chancel
is the bea'utiful monument of the latter personage.
Her figure is represented recumbent, and is executed
with eminent taste and delicacy. Numerous ala-
baster angels are placed around ; -anti on her left
arm is the badge of the order of the garter. — Near
the monument of the duchess is the tomb of Thomas
Chaucer, her father, and Matilda, her mother. — An
VOL. iv. — NO. 140.
hospital was founded at Ewelme for thirteen poor
men and two priests, by the duke and duchess.
James the First appointed the regius divinity pro-
fessor at Oxford, governor, or master of the institu-
tion. The same benefactors endowed a free-school
in the village ; but it has sunk into a sinecure. — The
Ikenefd Street passed near Ewelme.
At Bensington, two miles N. W. from Ewelme, was
an ancient British town, taken from the original
inhabitants by Ceaulin, in the year 572. The west-
Saxons held the place for two centuries, and appear
to have constructed a castle for its defence; but it
was reduced by Oft'a, king of the Mercians, who
defeated his rival in a sanguinary contest. To the
west of the church are a quadrangular bank and
trench. Three sides of the embankment are much
defaced. Plot mentions an "angle of King Offa's
palace near the church ;" by which he probably al-
ludes to the same spot. In this village are several
modern buildings. The church, which is Gothic,
has been built at different times. In the brick floor-
ing of the nave are some ancient stones, with muti-
lated brasses. — Here is a Sunday-school, supported
by subscription ; and a meeting-house for Method-
ists.
Brightwell, 5f miles S. W.by S. from Tetswortb,
is ornamented with the mansion of William Lowndes
Stone, Esq. — At Brightwell Prior, adjoining, an
extensive mansion, the property of the Weld family,
was for some years, till lately, occupied by nuns of
the order of St. Clair, driven from France by the
Revolution.
At Chalgrove, five miles W. from Tetworth, on
the 5th of January, 1727, during a tempest of
unusual violence, the steeple of the village church
fell to the ground. The tower contained fire bells,
which were all broken, but no person was hurt. —
The chief interest of this village arises from the con-
tiguous district termed Chalgrove Field, on which
took place the action fatal to the bold and popular
Hampden, on the 18th of June, 1643. The spot
has undergone little alteration.
Hasely, a parish of some extent, 3| miles W. from
Tetsworth, is composed, according to ancient divi-
sion, of four parts ; Great Haseley, the two small
hamlets of Little Hasely and Latchford, and the
barony of Ricot. Its name seems compounded of the
Saxon Hasle, and tbe British Ley ; signifying a
wild uncultivated spot, overrun with hazels, or nut
trees. — Leland was some time minister of Hasely.
Here is a free-school, founded in the seventeenth
century.
Latchford, containing only a few houses, proba-
bly derives its name from the ford, or passage, that
is crossed by the way which leads to it from Great
Hasely.
Ricot Park is an extensive domain, adorned with
wood and water. The mansion was pulled down a
few years ago by order of its owner, the present'
Earl of Abingdon ; but the chapel remains, and has
been repaired to continue as a place of burial for
u tbe
78
OXFORDSHIRE.
the family. Tiie house was partly built by John
Lord Williams of Thame, and had the honour o
twice receiving Queen Elizabeth ; once, on her way
to Woodstock as a prisoner ; and afterwards, volun-
tarily, on quitting Oxford, in 1592.
Nettlebed is five miles N. W. by W. from Henley
A spot about half a mile to the north-east of the
village is said to be the highest ground south of the
Tweed. Notwithstanding the village occupies so
elevated a site, the inhabitants are plentifully sup-
plied with water by a land spring, which has never
been known to fail. — The church is a * mall and un-
assuming structure, with a square tower, or turret,
the roofing of which declines towards the north and
south. — Near the village is Joyce Grove, the resi-
dence of Thomas Toovey, Esq.
LANGTREE.] — The hundred of Langtree is sepa-
rated from Berkshire on the west and southwest by
the Thames. Its larger portion, well wooded witli
beech, is in the Chiltern district. The soil is partly
calcareous ; partly a sandy loam. — This hundred
comprises the parishes of Checkendon, Crowmarsh
Gilford, Goring, Ipsden (with the Liberty of Stoke
Row) Mapledurham, Mongewell, Nuueham-warrenj
North-Stoke, and Whitchurch.
Mapledurham, eight miles S. W. by W. from Hen-
ley, derives some importance from the venerable
mansion of the Blount family, a building of the
Elizabethan age, untouched by innovation. The
house is seated on an extensive lawn ; and, in front,
is an avenue of noble elms, more than a mile in
length. — During the civil war, it was fortified in aid
of the royal cause. Sir Arthur Aston, governor of
Reading, superintended the fortifications, and the
situation rendered it a post of importance. It was
courageously defended, but at length compelled to
submit.— Amongst the family pictures, is a portrait
of Mrs. Martha Blount, the well-remembered friend
of Pope.
At Collens-End, between Mapledurham and Whit-
church, is a small public-house, once honoured with
the presence of Charles I. who, while he was at
Caversham Lodge, rode this way, under the escort
of a troop of horse. Bowls were then a fashionable
amusement ; this inn possessed a bowling-green ;
and the king is said to have amused himself with
the exercise of the place. A portrait of the woman
who then kept the house, is still preserved.
Hardwicke-House, a handsome and ancient, but
not very large, mansion, on the border of the river,
is the seat of Philip Lybbe Powys, Esq.
Whitchurch, 11 miles W. S. W. from Henley, has
been much improved, in consequence of an act ob-
tained for enclosing the common and commonable
lands, erecting a bridge over the Thames, &c. to
form a communication with the opposite village of
Pangbourn. The bridge, erected in 1793, is of oak
timber. In this village resided Dr. Wallis, a cele-
brated mathematician and grammarian.
Near to the Thames, is Walliscote-House, the
seat of John Simeon, Esq. ; and, at a short distance,
is Coombe-Lodge, a mansion erected a few years
ago by Samuel Gardiner, Esq.
At Goring, 12 miles W. by S. from Henley, was
an Augustine nunnery, founded in the reign of Henry
the Second. The site was granted, by Henry VIII.
to Charles, Duke of Suffolk ; and, to Sir Thomas
Pope. There yet remain several disjointed frag-
ments of the nunnery. — In the vicinity of this village,
on the margin of the Thames, is a medicinal water,
termed Springwell, of high repute in the last cen
tury, for cutaneous cases, disorders of the eyes, &c.
Mongewell, If mile S. from Wallingford, is the
seat of the Bishop of Durham. The mansion is un-
favourably placed for scenery ; but the grounds are
extensive, and arranged with much taste.
The village of Crowmarsh Gifford is separated
from Wallingford by the Thames.
At Ipsden, in this neighbourhood, John Read, Esq.
has a residence ; and at Cane End is the mansion of
William Vanderstegen, Esq.
LEWKNOR.] — The hundred of Lewknor, joining
that of Thame on the south-east, is partly in the
Chiltern division. The soil is various, but generally
productive. The Ikeneld Street enters near Chionor,
and marks the commencement of the Chiltern eleva-
tions. This hundred is composed of the following
parishes and liberties : Adwell, Aston - Rovvant,
Brit well- Salome, Chalford, Chinnor, Crowell, Em-
inington, Henton, Kingston-Blount, Lewknor, (with
Lewknor- up-hill) Postcomb, Sydenham, and Stokeu-
cl lurch.
The village of Lewknor, 3| miles S. S. E. from
Betsworfh, is composed of decent peasants' cot-
tages, with some agricultural abodes of a better
order. — Near Lewknor is Nethercot, the seat .of
Edward Jodrell, Esq. a spacious brick building,
occupying a low and marshy spot.
Stoken Church, 6f miles S. E. by E. from Tets-
worth, anciently belonged to the priory of WnlHnn--
ford, a cell of St. Alban's. About the middle °af
the chancel are three steps, which lead to the table ;
and, on the south and north walls, are two stands
for images, or tapers. On the south side of the
altar, in the wall, is a recess for the sanctified water
used in bestowing benedictions. Here are buried
two of the family of Morloy, distinguished in the
wars of Edward III. and Richard II. On the
north wall is a tablet commemorative -of Bartholomew
Tipping, gent, foundw of the Free School here, who
died in 1680. — Thomas Stevens, a poor and aged
man, who lies in the church-yard of this village, left
a request that his son would annually dress his grave
with flowers on the recurrence of St. Peter's (the
wake) day ; a request which was punctually com-
plied with. — The practice of preaching by the hour-
glass continued in this parish till after the year 1669.
— Several urns were discovered here by some labour-
digging the foundation of a house, in 1738. —
through
part
•rs
Sear the Roman portway, which passed
OXFORDSHIRE.
79
part of Stoken church, is Beacon Hill ; the spot
on which one of the beacons of the county was for-
merly placed.
Wormsley, or Walmsley, the mansion of John
Fane, Esq. is seated on one of the highest spots in
this neighbourhood. — Grove Cottage, the residence
of Richard Davis, Esq. is conspicuous for unosten-
tatious elegance of architectural character.
OXFORD. — The City of Oxford is seated on a gen-
tle elevation, in the area of an amphitheatre of hills,
54| miles W. N. W. from London. The Isis and
the Charwell encompass it on the east, the west,
and the south, ornamenting and enriching the cir-
cumjacent valley with luxuriant meadows, while the
hills on the north protect it from the winds most ini-
mical to health and comfort. — This seat of learning
presents a grand and interesting spectacle from all
the neighbouring heights. Its chief approaches are
particularly fine. On the west, it is entered by a
broad and excellent causeway, which proceeds over
many elegant modern bridges of stone. On the
north, the visitor perceives, as he passes through
St. Giles's, a well-built street, more than 2000 feet
long, and 240 feet broad, in which are two churches,
and several public buildings, besides the venerable
colleges of Baliol and St. John. The High Street
is conspicuously fine, and derives an extraordinary
interest from the curved direction in which it is
formed ; a circumstance from which a fresh display
of architectural grandeur presents itself at almost
every step. This street is well paved, and its sides
are adorned by the colleges of University, Queen's,
and All Souls. The embattled tower of Carfax
Church ornaments one extremity, and a bridge of
tasteful construction, in addition to the grand and
lofty pinnacles of Magdalen College, completes the
prospect at the opposite termination. — There have
been great disputes concerning the antiquity of Ox-
ford ; fabulous history placing its origin 1000 years
before the time of our Saviour, and ascribing its
foundation to Memprick, king of the Britons, from
whom it is said to have been called Caer-Memprick,
or the city of Memprick, a name said to have after-
wards been changed to Caer-Bossa, the city of
Bossa, and again to Rhid-Ycben, a ir.unc of the
same meaning with Oxen -ford, the Saxon appellation,
from which its present name is supposed to be «lc -
rived. This city is also said to have been called at
'JilFep nt times Bellositum and Beaumont, in allusion
to the beauty of its situation : we are also told, that,
it being destroyed by the Saxons in their first attempt
upon this country, Vortigern, the British king, re-
stored it to its former grandeur, whence it was
called Ciur-Vortigern. — It however appears to have
been a place of no great consideration, till king
Alfred founded a University here in the year 880.
That wise prince is generally considered as the
founder of the University, though he wa,s only the
restorer of learning at this place. At his accession
all kinds of literature had suffered so much by the
wars with wl.ieh England had been laid waste, that
very few could read English, and scarcely a single
priest in the kingdom understood Latin. To remove
this inconvenience, he ordered pope Gregory the
First's pastoral, containing the duty of pastors, to
be translated into English ; and having sent a copj
of it to every bishop in his dominions, assembled
several men of literature, among whom were Grym-
bald, and John the monk, who were distinguished
for their piety and learning, whom he settled at Ox-
ford in the year 880. That city having been before
a seminary of learning, Grymbald, and the learned
men who accompanied him hither, were opposed by
the old scholars, on their prescribing new statutes,
institutes, and institutions to the students, who upon
this pleaded that letters had long flourished there,
and that there being then hut few students, was
owing to their having been expelled in great numbers,
by the tyranny of pagans and infidels. They like-
wise maintained that they were ready to prove, by
the testimony of their annals, that good rules and
orders had long subsisted for the government of the
place : rules prescribed by Gildas, Melkin, Nennius,
Kentigern, and other persons of great learning and
piety, who had prosecuted their studies at that seat
of learning, and formed and improved the constitu-
tion of its University. — During Grymbald's stay at
Oxford, he and St. Neot were regents and readers
of divinity ; Asser, a monk of extraordinary parts
and knowledge, taught grammar and rhetoric ; John,
a monk .and colleague of Grymbald, taught geometry
and astronomy ; and John, a monk of St. David's,
logic, music, and arithmetic. The above animosities
had subsisted during three years, when they were
carried on with such violence, that upon Grymbald's
complaint to the king, he came in person to Oxford,
where he was at great pains in hearing both parties,
and endeavouring to accommodate their differences :
at length, having exhorted them to live in friendship,
he left them, in hopes that they would comply ; but
the students continuing their opposition, Grymbald
retired to the monastery at Winchester, which mo-
nastery had been but lately founded by Alfred. —
That excellent prince is said to have built three halls,
all subject to one head, called by the names of Great
University - hall, Little University-hall, and Loss
University - hall, in which he placed twenty - six
students in divinity, to whom he gave annual sti-
pends. Others are, however, of opinion, that Al-
fred founded only one hall under a threefold dis-
tinction, from the sciences taught in it. Such is,
however, the foundation of what is now called Uni-
versity College, which is allowed to be the most
ancient in Oxford. Yet some have maintained
that this college had scholars Ipng before ' the
reign of King Alfred, and that St. John de Bever-
ley, who died in the year 721, received IMS educa-
tion there, and they suppose that Alfred only built
the house, to which he gave the name of Great
University-hall, and provided the students with ex-
hibitions
OXFORDSHIRE.
hibitions.— In (he reign of King Ethelreil, the city,
together with this college, were sacked and burnt
'by the Danes, in the year 1002, and they were
scarcely rebuilt when King Harold, in 1036, being
liigly incensed against this' place, for the murder of
some of his friends in a tumult, banished the scholars;
but by an edict of Edward the Coiifessor, the scho-
lars were restored to their ancient habitations and
pensions.— William the Conqueror, being desirous
of abolishing the English tongue, and unwilling to
have the doctrines of the church any longer preached
in it, was warmly opposed by the clergy and scho-
lars ; on which he stopped the stipends granted them
by King Alfred, and reduced them to live on cha-
ritable contributions. The inhabitants then joining
iu a rebellion, William besieged the city, took it,
and gave it up to be plundered, in revenge for some
affront one of the inhabitants offered him from the
walls. That prince is also supposed to have surround-
ed the city with new walls, of which the Northgate,
and some scattered fragments are still remaining. —
In the reign of King .John, the magistrates of Ox-
ford, having, without trial, hanged up three priests
or scholars belonging to the University, for a mur-
der, of which they were supposed to be innocent,
the students retired from Oxford to Reading, Salis-_
bury, Maidstone, Cambridge, and other places ; by"
which means the town became so impoverished, that
it sent deputies to the pope's legate at Westminster,
who begged pardon on their knees, and submitted
to do public penance ; upon which the scholars, after
four or five years absence, returned. — At what time
Oxford was first dignified with the title of a Uni-
versity, is uncertain ; but in the year 1:256, in an
address from the University to the king, it is ex-
pressly called a University, and the second school
of the church, after the University of Paris ; ami
before this time, the popes in their decretals, allow-
ed the title of a University to none but those of
.Paris, Oxford, Bonaria, and Salamanca. — About the
year 1318, we find the Hebrew tongue began to be
studied in this University, where it was taught by a
Jewish convert, towards whose salary every clerk
in Oxford contributed one penny out of every mark
of his ecclesiastical revenue. — In 1349, so dreadful
a plague prevailed, that the schools were shut up,
and there were scarcely enough left in the city to
bury the dead. — The studies at Oxford were re-
sumed only by slow degrees. With returning health
the spirit of disagreement revived, and quarrels be-
tween the scholars, townsmen, and preaching friars,
were numerous and frequent. — Several parliaments
and councils were held in the city by Richard the
Third. Nearly at this period, Dr. WickliiFe, the
first warden of Canterbury College, read those lec-
tures of divinity which are known to have laid the
foundations of so great a change in religious opinion.
His doctrines were received with enthusiasm by that
large proportion of the University, which had felt
injured in consequence of the pope's interference
with the nomination to vacant benefices, or had been
affronted by the assumptions of the preaching friars.
At this important era, however, the general inte-
rests of learning do not appear to have been in a
flourishing state. The number of students was so
small, that many halls and schools were let for pur-
poses remote from the dissemination of letters. Yet
the court liberally patronized the University, and
several new foundations took place. — A strong pre-
dilection to Lollardism, as the doctrines of Wickliffe
\vere then termed, prevailed in the University during
the reign- of Henry the Fourth. — Henry the Fifth
had been partly educated at Oxford, and he retained
through life a fondness for the University. Had he
possessed leisure, he intended to amend its statutes,
and to found a college for the reception of strangers.
— Henry the Sixth professed much affection for
Oxford ; but his favour communicated no solid bene-
fit. The finances of the University were very low,
even to penury, during his reign ; and the scholars
were few in number. — Edward the Fourth assumed
the title ot Protector of the University, and, on many
occasions, proved a zealous friend; but the havoc
committed among noble and affluent families by the
rage of civil war, was long detrimental to the pro-
gress of refinement. — Richard the Third visited
Oxford soon after his accession to regal power, and
took many judicious steps for the advancement of
literature, among which was a law allowing the
University to import or export books at pleasure. — •'
A dreadful pestilence, which raged for six weeks,
and almost depopulated the city and colleges, usher-
ed in the reign of Henry the Seventh. Collegiate
discipline was at this time relaxed to a dangerous
degree, and intestine broils continually tormented
the few who were intent on profitable study, espe-
cially of the Greek language. When Erasmus, in
1498, repaired to Oxford for the purpose-of teaching
Greek, many leading characters declaimed against
him in the schools, and endeavoured to ridicule both
himself and the language which he wished to disse-
minate. — The instances of plague and pestilence
throughout this reign are exceedingly numerous, the
chief of which appear to be owing to the neglected-
state of the city. The channels communicating with
the adjacent rivers were suffered to become choaked
with dirt and filth, and all the wholesome statutes re-
gardinginterior cleanliness weredisregarded. — Hen-
ry the Eighth commenced his reign by confirming the
charters of the University, which confirmation was
shortly followed by the honor of a regal visit. The
munificence of Wolsey precluded, for many years,
the king's patronage. When he visited Oxford, in
1518, he founded seven lectures, for Theology, Civil
Law, Physic, Philosophy, Mathematics, Greek, and
Rhetoric. — When the king was desirous to divorce
Queen Catharine, he forwarded questions, touching
the legality of such a measure, to Oxford. After
much obstinate delay, a committee of thirty-three
Doctors and Bachelors of Law framed an answer
agreeably to the Icing's wishes, and affixed to it the
University seal ; but Wood says, that this decree
was
OXFORDSHIRE.
81
•was not obtained by a free suffrage, and that " all
the menaces or arts of the king had proved ineffec-
tual, if the secret committee had not taken the oppor-
tunity of a tempestuous night, as it were by stealth,
to hold the convention." — Soon afterwards the king
visited Oxford. In little more than a twelremonth,
lie declared himself head of the church, and again
sent to take the sense of the University. Thirty
doctors were assigned to the discussion of the pro-
posed case, and they promptly returned an answer
in accordance with the king's desire. An examina-
tion then took place of the whole University, man
by man, and the decision of the thirty doctors was
popularly ratified. The intentions of Henry, how-
ever, in regard to the spoliation of the church, were
soon perceived ; and the University presented a
dreary spectacle. Pestilence did much in driving
the scholars from their studies ; but an anticipation
of tiie calamities to which the church would be sub-
jected did more. Yet it must be remembered that
the pursuits of literature were first conducted into
proper channels during this reign ; and that the
University was enriched by private patronage of
the most munificent description. Besides Cardinal
Wolsey's foundation, since called Christ Church,
there were founded the two noble colleges termed
Brazen-nose and Corpus Christi. As some atone-
ment for the havoc made in religious houses, Henry
erected bishops' sees on the ruins of several of the
most opulent monasteries, and appropriated their
revenues to the maintenance of the new prelates.
Among the spoliated edifices so recompensed was
the Abbey of Osceney, contiguous to Oxford, which,
in 151-2, was converted into a cathedral church, and
the county of Oxford was made a diocese. When
Henry matured the foundation of Wolsey, he trans-
lated the cathedral church from Osceney thither ;
and from this period only it is obvious that Oxford
is strictly entitled to the name of city. — The blow
anticipated by the churchmen fell with overwhelm-
ing weight in the reign of Edward the Sixth.
The first act of Edward's counsellors directed that
"no gownsmen should concern themselves at the
election of any president, fellow, or scholar, or do any
thing to oppose the visitation now ordered by the
king." — This visitation shortly took place, and the
state of the Oxonians was found to be so far from
prosperous, that the visitors, at one time, entertained
an intention of reducing all the colleges into one, on
account of the narrowness of their revenues. This
intention, however, they were persuaded to abandon,
as it was understood that the king had determined
to restore to the University several rectories and
estates ; but they entirely changed the form of Uni-
versity government, and gave the name of Edward's
Statutes to the new code which they fabricated, a
code that remained in force until the time of Arch-
bishop Laud. — The delegates of Edward's authority
either directed or permitted the college libraries t0
be plundered ; and many rare manuscripts, which
contained no hint of superstitious doctrines they
VOL. iv. — NO. 147.
consigned to the flames. Indignant at this treat-
ment the chief of the students abandoned the Uni-
versity : the schools now possessed but sixteen
determining bachelors ; and though 1015 names ap-
peared on the books, much the larger portion had
quitted Oxford for ever. — Shortly after Mary suc-
ceeded to the Crown she abrogated the oaths which
had been lately administered concerning the rejection
of the Pope's authority. Many academics now re-
turned, and another visitation took place, under the
direction of Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester. In-
stead of displaying the superiority of the reformer's
tenets by a mild and dignified air of conscious truth,
one of the students, hostile to the court-delegates^
snatched the host out of the pyx at evening prayer,
rent it with his hands, and trampled on it with his
feet ; and another, openly in Magdalen choir, forced
the censer from the hands of the person who was
about to offer incense. A melancholy scene now
took place in Oxford. Archbishop Cranmer, with
the Bishops of London and Worcester, Ridley, and
Latimcr, were referred thither, for the alledged pur-
pose of entering into a disputation with the. Univer-
sity. So barren was Oxford at this time of persons
skilled in the ' old learning,' that Bishop Gardiner
deemed it prudent to request aid' from the sister-
University of Cambridge. After several meetings
in St. Mary's chapel the Bishops of London and
Worcester were excommunicated and condemned.
Their execution, in the highway at the front of
Baliol College, soon took place. Cranmer was
reserved for a more tedious fate ; and he, at length,
surrendered his breath on the same spot with the-
Bishops of London and Worcester. — According to
Wood, the University was in a drooping state during
the reign of Mary. — A brighter era succeeded. The
reign of Elizabeth restored confidence to all classes.
— The shock, however, occasioned by the frequent
changes in religion, and the consequent uncertainty
of ecclesiastical provision for students, was not to
be quickly overcome. In the year 1560, not one
person performed theological exercises in the schools,
and only one in civil law, and three in physic. In the
same year no divine, legist, or physician, stood for
his degree. When Queen Elizabeth, in 1563, issued
an edict declaratory of certain regulations concern-
ing the delivery of sermons, there were only three
University preachers in Oxford ; and two of these
shortly after retiring, the pulpit was supplied by
any accidental declaimed who offered. Even lay-
men were not precluded. Mr. Taverner of Wood-
Eaton (sheriff of Oxfordshire) " out of charity,"1
mounted the pulpit, with a sword by his side, and
his golden chain of office around his neck. The,
following was the commencement of his sermon : —
"Arriving at the Mount of St. Mary's, in the stony
stage where I now stand, I have brought you some
fine biscuits, baked in the oven of charity, carefully
conserved for the chickens of the church, the spar-
rows of the spirit, and the sweet swallows of salva-
tion."— Very few years elapsed before the general
x serenity
82
OXFORDSHIRE.
serenity of the kingdom allowed leisure for study.
?» 1506, the Queen visited Oxford ; and the magni-
ficence with which she was received, and the speeches
delivered, and dramatic pieces performed, shew at
once the affluence and talent of the respective colle-
giate' establishments.— In the 13th of Elizabeth was
passed an. act for the incorporation of the two Uni-
versities. Disgusted with the superstition of the
Romish church, the temper of the University now
ran into an opposite extreme. The Earl of Leices-
ter, their chancellor, was addicted to Calvinism, and
Sir Francis Walsingham, first secretary of state,
was notoriously a partizan of the Cathari, or Puri-
tans.— The city was often visited by pestilence
during the reign of Elizabeth. In the year 1577,
occured that fearful calamity termed the Black As-
size. While the court sat on the trial of a Popish
bookseller, accused of circulating offensive pamph-
lets, a sudden sickness seized nearly the whole of
the persons present; and, within forty hours, upwards
of 300 died, among whom were the lord chief baron
of the Exchequer, the high sheriff of the county,
several justices of the peace, and the chief of the
jurors. The earthquake, iu 1580, was severely felt
at Oxford. — Elizabeth favoured Oxford with a second
\isit in 1592.— In the reign of James the First, the
Papists and Puritans treated each other with the
most bitter and open rancour. — lung James resided
at Oxford for some time, on account of the plague
which raged at London ; but the disorder was con-
veyed to the place of his retreat, and broke forth
with such violence, that the scholars fled, and the
citizens shut their shops in dismay.* — The plague
still prevailing in London, Charles I. held a Par-
liament at Oxford in the early part of his reign.
The members of the University were unanimous in
professions of loyalty, and presented the whole of
their plate to be melted for the king's use, on the
occurrence of his first pressing exigency. At a sub-
sequent period the University also assisted the king
with the loan of above 10,000/. in money. — When
Charles found it expedient to retire from London,
be chose Oxford for his place of abode ; and in this
city the chief of the royal family resided until their
fortunes grew entirely desperate, and they were
obliged to separate, never all to meet again on earth.
The king had apartments prepared for him at Christ
Church, and the queen at Merton, between which
colleges a private way was opened for their accom-
* King James the First empowered the University to send
two representatives to Parliament.
f The president of 'Magdalen College, one of the richest
foundations in Europe died ; and the king, relying on a pro-
fession of passive obedience lately made by the University,
transmitted a command for the election of a person named
Farmer, to the vacant office. This Farmer was a man guilty
of the most degrading vices, and the fellows of Magdalen hum-
bly requested his majesty either to leave them the, freedom of
choice ordained by their statutes, or to nominate a more suit-
able character. The king made no reply ; and, when the day
of election arrived, the fellows, without hesitation, chose for
modation through one of the canon's gardens, la
the hall of Christ Church the king collected the
; fragments of his parliament, and opened the nioment-
; ous business of the season with a manly and judici-
; ous speech. The lords afterwards held their meet-
; ings in the upper schools, and the commons assem-
' bled in their convocation house. — The queen was, at
' length, advised to quit her royal consort, and to seek
' security in the city of Exeter. The winter of 1646
was passed by Charles within the walls of Christ
: Church ; and from that college, he wrote the memo-
j rable letter to Lord Digby, in which he said that,
I " if he could not live as a king, he would at least
j die as a gentleman !" — Although effectual measures
! had been taken to fortify the city, Charles deemed
it prudent to accede to the desire of the opposite
faction, and issued orders for its peaceable surrender.
The possession of Oxford was a gratifying circum-
stance to the sectarian party. Such scenes ensued
as might be expected from the religious intoxication
of vulgar minds. An ordinance was passed for the
sale of dean and chapter lands ; the visitors placed
violent sectarians in the offices of the divines who
refused to accede to their proposals ; and the more
strenuous of the elect among the soldiery broke all
the painted windows to which they could gain access,
and mutilated the most striking pieces of emblema-
tical sculpture. — In the turbulent period which
ensued, Oxford was, by no means, scantily supplied
with nominal students ; but classical learning expe-
rienced an entire stagnation. In the year 1650,
Oliver Cromwell was elected chancellor. — A few
men of sedate mind, however, whose judgment had
escaped injury from the" delusive influence of the
vortex in which they dwelt, held periodical confe-
rences for the communication of discoveries in phy-
sics and geometry. Among these the name of Wil-
kins, afterwards Bishop of Chester, who had married
Cromwell's sister, shines with eminent lustre. In
the meetings thus privily held we trace the origin of
the Royal Society. — Cromwell, however, gave a
hundred pounds a year to the divinity professor at
Oxford, and presented some Greek manuscripts to the
Bodleian library. — On the Restoration, the Univer-
sity was replaced, with all convenient speed, on its
former basis. In 1681, Charles the Second, held a
Parliament at Oxford.— In the reign of James the
Second, the spirit of religious faction airain broke
forta.t
The
president, pr. Hough, a man of virtue, firmness, and correct
understanding. Enraged by this conduct, James sent down an
inferior ecclesiastical commission, the persons entrusted with
which consented to withdraw Farmer from all pretensions, but
presented a mandate in favour of Parker, recently created
Bishop of Oxford, a man also of offensive character, but who,
like the former candidate, was ready to embrace the Catholic
religion without scruple. The fortitude of the collegiates rose
progressively with the increase of danger. They respectfully
stated their resolution to abide by the tenor of "their statutes ;
but mentioned their tried and well-known loyalty as a proof of
their readiness to adhere to the crown under all lawful circum-
stances.
OXFORDSHIRE.
The statutes under wSn'ch the University acts as a
corporate body, received the royal approbation in
the reign of Charles I. The legislative brunch, and
that by which degrees and honours are conferred,
consists of the meeting of the vice-chancellor, heads
of the house, and proctors ; of the convocation ; and
the congregation. In the meeting first mentioned,
all new statutes, orders, and regulations, relating to
the University, must originate. When these are ap-
proved they are passed, in order to be ratified, to
the house of convocation, which is formed by the
vice-chancellor, proctors, and all doctors and mas-
ters who have taken out their regency. The con-
gregation is composed of the vice-chancellor ; the
proctors, or their deputies ; the necessary regents
(doctors in divinity, law, and medicine ; or masters
of arts for the first two years following the act after
they were admitted to their degrees ;) and the regents
ad placitum (all resident doctors; nil public pro-
fessors and lecturers ; all heads of colleges and
halls ; and, in their absence, their deputies ; the
musters of the schools ; the public examiners ; and
deans and censors of colleges.) The officers by which
the University is immediately governed are the chan-
cellor, the. high-steward, the vice-chancellor, and
two proctors. The chancellor is elected by the
members of the convocation, and is usually chosen
from the most distinguished of the ancient nobility*.
The duty of the chancellor is, under the king, to
superintend the interests of the University ; in a
word, to become, its protecting father. He is en-
dowed with full power. He has a court, in which he
lias tbe liberty of presiding, either in person, or by
deputy, when a scholar or privileged person is one
of the parties; and the statutes of every college are
so framed as to render his authority essential to its
vit;il principle. — The high steward is nominated by '
the chancellor. His duty is to assist the chancellor,
vice-chancellor, and proctors, in the performance of i
their respective offices ; and executively under the
chancellor, to defend the privileges and laws of the
University. In the court, he sits, when required,
as legal representative of the chancellor, and holds
the court-leets of the University, either by himself or
deputy. This officer maintains his appointment for
life, and is generally a man of illustrious birth, and
of eminent talent. — The vice-chancellor is recom-
mended by the heads of houses, but is nominated
by the chancellor. He is always the head of some
= . .' =
stances. The unquestionable justice of their cause, and the
mild character of llieir representations, availed little with the
ill-advised king. He viewed the affair in so serious a light, that
he visited Oxlord in person, and commanded the fellows of the 1
refractory college to appear before him at Christ Church.
After an angry meeting with them in that place, and several
subsequent endeavours equally violent to reduce them to abject '
obedience, the president and all the fellows, except two, were !
forcibly expelled the college. A blended sentiment of terror
and detestation was created by this conduct among all the ',
friends of cool reason and upright government ; and, in the :
year 1688, when James was alarmed in his turn by the prepa- i
college, and is a initially nominated, though the office
has of late usually been enjoycjd by the same person
for four successive years. The vice-chancellor su-
perintends the due performance of University re-
gulations ; calls convocations, congregations, and
courts ; licenses taverns ; expels delinquents, &c.
He chooses four deputies, termed pro- vice- chancel-
lors, one of whom supplies his place in the instance
of sickness or absence. — The two proctors are mas-
ters of arts of at least four years' standing, and not
more than ten, from their regency. They are chosen
from the several colleges in turns. The proctors are
elected by the common suffrage of all doctors and
masters of arts in their respective colleges. They
assist the vice-chancellor in convocations and con-
gregations ; see that the scholastic exercises are duly
performed, the statutes observed, jnst weights and'
measures kept, right habits worn, and the public
peace preserved. These officers name four masters
of arts as pro-proctors, to assist in the execution of
their duty. Besides these University magistrates
there is a public orator, who is chosen>by the con-
vocation, and must, be at least either a bachelor of
civil law, or master of arts, and not of the same
college with the person last elected. He writes
letters and addresses on public occasions ; delivers
a harangue at the reception of any prince, or per-
son of peculiar eminence, and presents the honorary
degree of master of arts to those on whom it is
conferred. — A keeper of the archives is elected by
the convocation. His-duty is to arrange and pre-
serve the records and charters belonging to the
University ; and to plead the rights and privileges
of the University upon emergent occasions. — A regi-
strar attends convocations, congregations, &c. lie
also collects and receives the rents of the University.
Four terms are kept in the year ; and the degree's
taken are in divinity, law,' physic, and the arts.
Residence of sixteen terms is required for the de-
gree of bachelor of artst, and of twelve terms from
the time of admission to that degree for master of
arts. For some of these latter terms, however, a
dispensation is usually allowed, and a residence of
three weeks is sufficient to complete each term. The
degree of bachelor of civil law is granted those who
have been students five years. Four years after
which, they may be admitted to the degree of doctor.
The degree of bachelor of divinity is conferred on
masters of arts of four years' standing, and that of
rations of the Prince of Orange, one of his first steps towards a
lardy retribution, was a reinstatement of the expelled president'
and fellbus of Magdalen.
* This office was once annual ; and, at the most, triennial ;
but, in the 15th century, an ecclesiastic, Kussel, Bishop of Lori-'
don, was elected chancellor for life ; and this mode of election
afforded a precedent so desirable that it has uniformly been acted
on in subsequent ages.
f The sons of English peers, eldest sons of baronets and knights, '
or sons of Scolch and Irish peers, when matriculated as such/ and
not placed on the foundation of any college, are allowed to be
candidates for a bachelor's degree, after having completed three
years.
doctor
OXFORDSHIRE.
doctor of divinity four years after.*— The total num-
ber of members on the University books is about
3000. For the reception of these there are twenty
colleges, and five halls, to a brief description of
•which we shall now proceed.
I. All Souls College, founded in 1437, by Henry
Chichele, Archbishop of Canterbury, consists chiefly
of two spacious courts, one entered from the High
Street, and the other from the paved square, in which
is erected the Radcliffe library. The front towards
the High Street, a low irregular range of building,
retaining little of its original character, was origi-
nally 194 feet long, with two gateways, three very
fine bay windows, and an embattlemeiit of its whole
length, with grotesque heads and spouts. The bay
Vindoyrs have been modernized, and the embattled
character of the parapet is in one part preserved,
antl in another destroyed. Two large and well-
sculptured figures of King Henry VI. and Archbi-
shop Chichele are placed in niches over Ihe doorway.
— The court first entered from the High Street is
about 1-24 feet in length, and 72 in breadth, and con-
tains many features of the ancient structure. The
great, or interior, quadrangle increases in beauty
as well as in dimensions. It is J72 feet in length,
and 155 in breadth, and was erected at different
periods of the last century. The chapel and hall
occupy the southern side, and on the north the
splendid library of the college, constructed in a cor-
respondent style of architecture to the buildings
directly opposed to it, engrosses the whole extensive
range. On the west is a cloister, the breadth of the
court, with a gate of entrance in the centre. The
eastern division contains the common room, and a
series of other handsome apartments, surmounted
by two lofty towers. The style of this quadrangle
is the mixed Gothic. The interior court of All Souls
is happy in possessing the uniform grandeur of asso-
ciated objects so necessary to a full display of archi-
tectural effect. The towers on the east, strengthened
by graduated buttresses, and .declining at the top
into lessening minarets of delicate workmanship,
completely fill the eye, and engage the attention.
On the two adjoining sides the chapel and the library
•well support this lofty majesty of structure ; and the
highly- wrought dome of the Radcliffe library seems
placed intentionally beyond the cloister, on the oppo-
site side of the quadrangle, to present a back ground
* The exercises for the degree of bachelor of arts and bache-
ior in civil law, are these : — The candidate must respond once
before the masters of the schools ; and no person is allowed to
respond unless he has attended the exercise at least one day
daring its whole continuance. This exercise is confined to the
classics, the rudiments of logic, and Euclid's Elements of Geo-
metry. The candidate for the degree of bachelor of arts must
be created general sophist on the completion of two years' stand-
ing, and he must attend, at least twice, the readings of the de-
termining bachelors. He is then publicly examined, which
examination cannot take piace before the beginning of the fourth
year from his matriculation ; and no candidate can be examined
until he has responded before the masters of the schools ; nor
unless he has been present at the examinations at least two day
of captivating magnificence, while St. Mary's taper
spire, rich in Gothic ornaments, shoots above the
buildings which compose the outer court. — John,
Druel, Archdeacon of Exeter, and Roger Keyes,
both afterwards fellows of the college, were the
principal architects employed in the original build-
ing ; and Hawksmoor planned and superintended
the arrangement of the new quadrangle. The chapel
retains the exterior only as left by the founder. The
superb decorations placed there by Chichele wer«
chiefly removed in the reign of Elizabeth. The in-
terior, as it stands, was arranged by Sir Christopher
Wren, Sir James Thornhill, and Dr. Clarke. The
floor is of black and white marble. The roof is divided
intocompartments, paintedand gilded on canvas. The
piers on each side are filled with painted figures of
different illustrious persons connected with the col-
lege. The altar-piece is composed of fine clouded
marble, over which is an Assumption piece of the
founder. This picture, with the ceiling, &c. was
executed by Sir James Thornhill. In a compartment
over the communion-table is an estimable picture, a
noli me tangere, by Mengs, who painted it at Rome,
and sold it to the college for three hundred guineas.
The windows are painted in Chiaro scuro, by Love-
grove of Marlow, except that on the west, which
was performed by Eggington. The interior of the
hall, a room of great elegance, was constructed early
in the last century, chiefly at the expence of the
society. At the upper end is a fine statue by Bacon,
of Justice Blackstone, and over the chimney is a
piece by Sir James Thornhill, representing the Find-
ing of the Law, and King Josiah rending his robe.
Here also are the portraits of Colonel Codrington,
the founder, and Sir Nathaniel Lloyd, by the same
painter. Round the room are a series of casts from
the antique, and busts of the founder, Linacre, and
Leland. The library, thought to be the largest room
of its kind in the kingdom, is 198 feet in length,
and 32{ in breadth, with an exception of the centre,
in which a recess is formed fifty-one feet and a
quarter from the commencement to the termination.
The height is not less than forty feet ; and there are
two succeeding ranges of book-cases supported by
pilasters of the Doric and Ionic orders. Above the
gallery, which forms an access to the upper range,
are vases, and busts, in bronze, of some of the
most eminent fellows of the college, cast by Sir
within the two years immediately preceding (lie term of his own
examination. The examination consists of the rudiments of the
Christian religion, classics, rhetoric, logic, moral philosophy,
the elements of mathematics, and natural philosophy. Every
bachelor of arts is to " determine" in the Lent after he has taken
his degree. This exercise should consist in the reading of two
Essays in Latin prose, but for one of the Essays he is at liberty
to substitute a composition in Latin verse on a subject approved
by the masters of the schools. There are four public examiners,
who are nominated by the vice-chancellor and the proctors, and
must afterwards be approved by the convocation. They must
be all present during the examinations, and an examining mas-
ter is not allowed to examine a candidate of the same college,
or hall, to which himself belongs.
Henry
OXFORDSHIRE.
Henry Cheere. Over the door is a fine bust of the
founder, by Roubilliac ; and in the area of the cen-
tral recess is a statue of Colonel Codrington.*-— In
the vestibule of the library is a tripod, found at Co-
rinth, considered unique. An ante-library, and
several subordinate rooms at the south-end, contain
some interesting specimens of coloured glass,
amongst which the portraits of Henry VI. and of
the founder are supposed to be coeval with the foun-
dation, t In the charter of All Souls, granted in
1438, Henry VI. at the request of Chichele, assumed
the title of founder, in conjunction with the archbi-
shop. J The statutes framed by Chichele for the re-
gulation of his college were modelled in attention to
those of his predecessor, Wykebam. One exception,
however, occurred, which has led to much litigation ;
in the choice of fellows a preference was always to
be given to the next of kin descended from his two
brothers. The difficulty of ascertaining precedence
of consanguinity, will be readily perceived, when
we observe that, in the year 1765, the collateral de-
scendants of Chichele were to be traced through
nearly 1200 families ! § There was long preserved
a custom in this college, of celebrating the festival
of the Mallard every year, in remembrance of a
huge mallard, or drake, found in a drain under
ground, on digging the foundation of the college.
An ancient and humourous song was regularly sung.
When Pointer wrote his Oxoniensis Academia, he
committed olfence by insinuating that this immor-
talized mallard was no other than a goose. The
insinuation produced a reply from Dr. Buckler, re-
plete with irresistible irony ; but Pointer met a par-
tisan in Mr. Bilson, chaplain of All Souls, who
issued a folio sheet, intituled, " Proposals for print-
ing by subscription the History of the Mallardians" ;
with the figure of a cat prefixed, said to have been
found starved in the college library. The festival
has now been for some years discontinued. — The
society of All Souls consists of a warden, forty
fellows, two chaplains, and six clerks and choristers.
II. Balliol College was founded by John de Bal-
* To this person the society is indebted for the splendour of
the present building in which its books are reposited. Colonel
Codrington was born in Barhadoes, but of English parents, and
was admitted a fellow of All Souls, in the year 1689. Under
the appointment of King William he became Captain General
and Governor in Chief of the leeward Caribbee islands ; and,
at his decease, bequeathed the sum of lO.OOO/. for the purpose
of constructing a new library at All Souls, Oxford ; and, also,
to the same college he left a collection of books, worth not less
than 6,000/. The lirst stone ot the new building was laid, in
1716, by Dr. Young, author of the Night Thoughts; but the
whole was not completed till the year 1756. The entire ex-
pense was 12, 10 1/. 5i.
•f Henry Chichele, the founder of this college, was born
about the-year 1362, at Higham Ferrars, Northamptonshire.
He received the rudiments of education at Winchester school,
and was then removed to New College, Oxford. After enjoy-
ing various ecclesiastical preferments he was noticed by Henry
IV. who employed him in several negotiations with the apostolic
court. In 1408, he was presented by Pope Gregory XII. to
the Bishopric of St. David's ; and, in the early part of" the reign
VOL. IV. — NO. 147.
liol, of Bernard's Castle, Durham, a man of much
power in the 13th century, and a firm friend to Henry
the Third, during all his contests. De Balliol mar-
ried the Lady Dervorgille, daughter of Alan of
Galloway, a Scottish baron, by which marriage he
became father of John de Balliol, the unfortunate
king of Scotland. He commenced, so early as 12t>3,
the maintenance of sixteen poor scholars of Oxford.
On his death, which appears to have been sudden,
his widow hired a house on the site of part of the
present college. Meeting with the concurrence of
De Balliol's executors, she, in 1282, appointed
statutes under her seal. This new society shortly
gained fresh strength. The Lady Dervorgille pur-
chased a tenement, called Mary's Hall, as a perpe-
tual settlement for the principal and students, and
presented them with lands (since lost) in Northum-
berland. The son of De Balliol, at the same time,
confirmed the foundation. The revenues of the
college were, however, still so small, that they
yielded only eight-pence per week to each scholar;
but benefactors were soon found, among whom were
Sir William Felton,and Sir Philip Somervyle. New
statutes were introduced by Sir Philip, and the
weekly allowance of the fellows and scholars was
raised to eleven-pence, or, in times of dearness of
Ero vision, to fifteen pence. Numerous other beue-
ictions were subsequently received. — In 1507, it
was settled, by a new body of statutes drawn up by
the Bishops of Winchester and Carlisle, that the
number of fellows should be limited to ten, who
were all to study divinity and enter into holy orders.
This number was afterwards augmented. Dr. War-
ner, Bishop of Rochester, gave, in 1666, part of the
emoluments of his manor of Swayton, for the main-
tenance of four scholars of the Scottish nation, to
be chosen by the Archbishop of Canterbury and the
Bishop of Rochester, each to have twenty pounds
yearly until he had taken the degree of M. A. when
he was to return to his country, to assist in support-
ing the ecclesiastical establishment of England.
This fund has since been increased by the profits
of Henry V. he succeeded to the Archbishopric of Canterbury.
During the factious days which marked the accession of the
sixlh Henry, Chichele retired to his province, where he laid
the plan of thai College in Oxford which he lived to see:
matured. He was interred in the cathedral of Canterbury —
fide Vol. 111. p. 132.
t The meaning of the name, by which the College was or-
dered to be distinguished, may be understood from the direc-
tions given the Society to pray for the good estate of Henry VI.
and the archbishop, during their lives ; and for (heir souls after
their decease ; also for the souls of Henry V. and all the noble-
men and other subjects who had (alien in the War with France ;
and, after these, for the " souls" of "all" the faithful de-
ceased.
§ Among the eminent men, wh& have studied at All Souls,
were Archbishop Sheldon ; Jeremy Jaylor ; Linacre, the first
person who (aught Greek at Oxloril ; J -eland ; Sir Anthouv
Shirley; 1 imlal, the sceptical writer; Dr. Sydenham ; Sir
William Trumbull, the friend of Pope ; Sir Christopher Wren ;
Sir Nathainel Lloyd ; Sir William Blackstone, &c.
Y . arising1
86
OXFORDSHIRE.
arising from the manor of Uffton in Warwickshire, i
presented by John Snell, Esq. a native of Scotland.
The donation of Mr. Snell was to be applied to the
service of not more than twelve, nor less than five,
scholars, to be chosen from Glasgow College, at
which he had himself received education. While
the society was in its infancy, the students were
accommodated in two buildings, (termed the new
and the old Balliol Halls,) and various subordinate
tenements. No part of the present building is older
than the reign of Henry the Sixth. The front
towards the street, is extremely irregular. In the
central approach to the quadrangle, is a square
Gothic tower with an embattled parapet, and an
oriel over the entrance, on each side of which is
a highly enriched and canopied niche. The arms
of the Balliol family adorn this gateway. On the
right is a plain weighty range of buildings ; and,
on the left, an extent of edifice which reaches
108 feet, handsome, but possessing little conso-
nance of character to the division on the remote
side of the gateway. This building was erected
at the expense of Mr. Fisher, late fellow of the
college. . The interior of the quadrangle is 120
feet long, and 80 feet broad. The simply-beautiful
front of the hall forms the chief part of the western
side ; and the remaining ground is occupied by the
residence of the master, built by Bishop Grey. A
beautiful bay window in the front of these lodgings
is of the finest florid Gothic : the intersections of
carved stone work are delicately light. The north-
ern side is composed of the chapel and the library.
The great entrance to the former, nearly in the cen-
tre, is highly decornted. On the east is the plain front
of tlie building. The venerable tower stands as a
centre to the southern division of the court, on one side
of which is a continuation of the heavy structure
that forms the eastern range, and on the other is u
low Gothic series of the original edifice. — An area
on the north-west comprises several detached apart-
ments built for the use of students, by Archbishop
Abbot, in the reign of Charles the First. On this
area abuts the northern extremity of the pile raised
by Mr. Fisher, which bears the following inscription :
VERBUM NON AMPLIUS FISHEK.
* In this college were educated Morton, Archbishop of
Canterbury, minister of Henry the Seventh ; Tunstall, Bishop
of Durham; Dr. Douglas, late Bishop of Salisbury; Hum-
phrey, the 'good' Duke of Gloucester; John Tiptoft, Earl of
Worcester, in the reigns of Henry the Sixth, and Edward the
Fourth; Hoss of Warwick, the historian ; Sir Robert Atkvns,
chief baron of the Exchequer, and his son, the historian of
^Gloucestershire ; Tobias Crisp, the founder of the sect of
'Anlinomians; Joha Evelyn; Dr. Charles Davenant, son of
the laureate; Hutchinson, the historian of Dorsetshire ; and
James West, sometime president of the Royal Society. John
Wickliffe, the reformer, was once master of the college.
•f- Bishop Suiyth was the fourth son of Robert Smyth, of
Peel-house, Prescot, Lancashire, and studied at Oxford, where-
lie took his degree of Bachelor of Law, previously to 1492,
when lie was instituted to the rectory of Cheslumt, in Hert-
fordshire. He was recommended to Henry the Seventh, by
lie Earl of Derby, and was appointed clerk of the Hanaper.
The chapel, built between 1521 and 1529, by pri-
vate contributors, contains some interesting speci-
mens of painted glass. — The hall is a pleasing
building, in the pointed style, the interior of which
has been modernised. Among the plate possessed by
the college is a large cup presented by " the Man of
Ross." — The Library of Balliol was built at different
times ; the part towards the west by Dr. Chase, in
1427 ; that on the east by Mr. Robert Abdy, in 1477.
The interior was entirely rebuilt by Wyatt, a few
years ago. This library, which formerly contained
many valuable manuscripts, was cruelly injured in
the reign of Edward the Sixth. Much liberality,
however, has been exercised in regard to the dona-
tion of printed books in succeeding periods.* — The
society consists of a master, twelve fellows, fourteen
scholars, and eighteen exhibitioners, and possesses
the singular privilege of electing its own visitor.
III. Brasen Nose College, forming the west side
of Radcliffe-square, occupies the site of several
ancient halls, among which was Little University
Hall, supposed to have been instituted by King
Alfred. It was founded about 1509, by William
Smyth, Bishop of Lincoln, assisted, in point of
superintendance, by Sir Richard Sutton. t The
building was prosecuted with much alacrity, and the
society is supposed to have befcome a permanent
corporation in 1512. It was to consist of a princi-
pal and sixty scholars, who were first to be instructed
in sophistry, logic, and philosophy, and then in
divinity. In 1521, a revision of the statutes was
undertaken by Sir Richard Sutton, and the society
was made to consist of a principal and twelve fel-
lows. Besides numerous benefactors, who guided
their bounty by the model of the original donors,
there have been sums bequeathed for the foundation
of lectureships in Philosophy, in Humanity, Hebrew,
Greek, and Mathematics. — The original buildings
have not undergone 'any material alterations. The
front is an extensive range, and possesses a sedate,
massive, and commanding character. Over the chief
entrance is a lofty tower in a style of highly em-
bellished but pure Gothic. On both sides of the-
gateway extends a long pile of building, three sto-
ries high, with a parapet ; the eastern end of the
After several intermediate steps of advancement, he was pre-
ferred to the see of Lichfitld and Coventry, and named presi-
dent of the prince's council within the marches of Wales. He
rebuilt and endowed afresh, the hospital of St. John, in Lich-
field, to which he attached a school, alterwards united with the
seminary patronised by Edward the Sixth, famous from its
pupils, Newton, Addison, &c. — He was translated to the
bishopric of Lincoln, and acceded to the request ot the Univer-
sity of Oxford by becoming their chancellor ; an office which
be resigned before 15O7, in which year he concerted the plan
of founding a new college with his friend Sir Richard Sulton.
He died at Buckden, in 1513, and was interred in Lincoln
cathedral. — Sir Richard Sutton descended from the Buttons, of
Sulton, near Macclesfield. He practised as a barrister of the
Inner Temple ; and, in 1498, became a member of the priry
council. He was, also, one of the governors of the Inner
Temple, and steward of the monastery of Sion, near Brent-
ford.
chapel
OXFORDSHIRE.
elmpel, and part of the library, terminate the range
at the southern end. The square of entrance is the
chief ornament of this front. The buildings are
principally comprised in a large quadrangle, and a
smaller court towards the south. The former con-
sists of a hall nnd ranges of apartments for students.
In the centre of this quadrangle is a piece of sculp-
ture, representing two male figures in violent con-
test, given to the college by Dr. Clarke of All Souls,
and believed to represent the murder of Abel by
Cain. Over the outward door of the hall are two
interesting busts, discovered in digging the foun-
dation of the college. The first is that of Alfred,
the presumed founder of the hall dismantled for the
purpose of the new structure ; and the other that
of John Scotus Erigena, the first lecturer in Al-
fred's building. — The court towards the south is
chiefly occupied by the library and the chapel, both
built in the seventeenth century. — Besides the qua-
drangle and court, there are apartments called the
new buildings, calculated for the reception of seven
students, and a handsome house facing the High-
street, for the residence of the principal. — The hall
is spacious and lofty, with a handsome bay window
at the upper end, in which are two ancient portraits
of the founders. The fire-place was bestowed by
Lord Curzon in 17tiO. Previously the hall was
warmed by a fire in the centre. Two busts of the
founders are preserved in the hall ; and several
portraits ornament the walls, among which is that of
Mrs. Joyce Frankland, a liberal benefactress. — The
original library stood on the north side of the great
quadrangle. In 1663 this building was converted
into chambers, and the present library was erected.
The interior was arranged by Wyat, in 1780 ; up
to which epoch, the books were,chained to the shelves.
— The chapel, begun in 1656, is partly composed
of materials brought from the ancient chupel of St.
Mary's College. The eastern window was executed
by Pearson, from drawings by Mortimer. The altar
is richly decorated ; and the ceiling, of wood, is a
skilful imitation of Gothic stone- work. — In the ante-
chapel is a good bust of Dr. Shippen, a late prin-
cipal*— The singular name by which this college is
distinguished excites curiosity. A very ancient hall,
which had a large brasen face on the door, probably
to answer the purpose of a knocker, formed one part
of the buildings reduced by the founders of the
present college, and Little University Hall, the
supposed foundation of Alfred, formed another. The
founders were desirous of preserving the memory
of both, and they bestowed on the new structure
the name of the King's Hall, and College of Brasen
Nose. The allusion to Alfred has faded from notice,
* Among the eminent men educated here were Caldwell,
president of the College of Physicians ; Fox, the marlyrologist ;
Sir John Savile, Buron of Exchequer ; Sir John Spelman ;
Brerewood, first professor of astronomy in Gresham College;
Humphrey Lloyd, the Welch historian ; Sampson Erdeswick,
the Staffordshire antiquary ; the Lord Chancellor Egerton ;
Sir James Ley, afterwards Earl of Marlborough ; Burton,
and the latter term now alone prevails. Over the
chief gateway of the college is still placed a brasen
human fare, with a nose extravagantly large. — The
society consists of a principal, twenty fellows, thirty-
two scholars, and fifteen exhibitioners.
IV. Corpus Cliristi College was founded by
Riciiard Fox, Bishop of Winchester, who was born,
towards the end of the reign of Henry the Sixth,
at Ropesley, near Grantham, in Lincolnshire. Hi
was placed at Magdalen College ; but, being
obliged to retire by the prevalence of one of those
pestilential diseases then so frequent, he repaired to
Cambridge. He, however, completed his studies
at Paris, where he became acquainted with Morton,
Bishop of Ely, by whom he was recommended to the
notice of the Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry
the Seventh, who promoted him to the see of Exeter
two years after the battle of Bosworth Field. He
was subsequently promoted to the see of Winches-
ter, and appointed keeper of the privy seal. The
University of Cambridge also elected him their chan-
cellor.— Shortly after Henry the Eighth mounted the
throne, he retired from political life, and entered
with zeal on other pursuits. He employed vast
sums in making additions to the cathedral at Win-
chester, and enlarged his designs concerning a dona-
tion to Oxford. So early as the year 1513, he had
purchased lands, with the intention of erecting a
college. He had even begun the buildings, when/
Hugh Oldhana, Bishop of Exeter, persuaded him
to extend his plan, and, in 1516, he obtained a
licence from Henry the Eighth, to found a college
for students in divinity, philosophy, and arts. The
building having been completed, the statutes were
formed in 1527, by which the society was made to
consist of a president, twenty fellows, twenty scho-
lars, two chaplains, two clerks, and two choristers.
Bishop Fox appointed two lectures for Greek and
Latin, and invited the most accomplished scholars
to his new establishment. He died, blind and aged,
in 1528, and was buried in Winchester cathedral.—
The benefactors to this college consist chiefly of
members of the society, with the principal exception
of Hugh Oldham, Bishop of Exeter. This col-
lege (dedicated to the praise and honour of God
Almighty, the most holy Koety nf Clinst, the blessed
Virgin Mary, and various saints,) stands to the east
of Christ Church, and to the west of Morton. The
original design consisted of one spacious quadran-
gle, with its chapel, hall, and library ; but various-
buildings have since been added for the accommo-
dation of the increasing number of students. The
front is solid and handsome, having a battlement
along the top, and a lofty square tower in the centre,
author of the Anatomy of Melancholy ; John Prince, author of
the Worthies oi Devon ; Thomas Church, rector of this parish,
in which Lord Bolingbroke resided, and who was honoured
with the degree of D.D. by -diploma, for his answer to the
sceptical writings of that nobleman ^ the Hev. John Watson,
author ot the History of Halifax.
ornamented
OXFORDSHIRE.
ornamented with three empty canopied niches. The
hall stands on the east, and the library on the
southern side. In the latter divisions is a whole
length statue of the founder. The quadrangle is
101 feet by 80 ; and the centre is ornamented by a
curious cylindrical dial, constructed in 1605, by
Charles Turnbull, a fellow of the college. — Adjoin-
ing to the grounds, is a large building, erected at
the beginning of the eighteenth century, by Dr.
Turner, for the reception of students. This build-
ing is noble, decorous, and chaste. In the centre
is a pediment, supported by four Ionic pilasters ;
the windows, and other divisions, are ornamented.
Dr. Turner formed a cloister in the adjacency of
his new building, which is now used as a burial-
place. — On the eastern side of the college, border-
ing on Merton Grove, apartments were built in the
year 1737, for six gentlemen commoners, the utmost
number allowed by the statutes. — -The library, which
remains nearly in its ancient state, is commodious,
but plain. Here are a set of the Aldine Classics,
collected by the founder ; and the manuscripts of
Bryan Twyne, and Fulman, writers on the Anti-
quities of Oxford. There are two ancient portraits
of the founder in this library; and his arms are in-
serted in the screen over the doorway. — The inte-
rior of the hall has undergone considerable altera-
tions. — The chapel is in two compartments, the
inner of which, has a floor of black and white mar-
ble, with ornamented stalls, and a screen carved in
cedar wood. The roof is of wainscot, with inter-
spersed gilding. The chief embellishments of the
chapel were arranged in 1676, the expense of which
was defrayed by the society. The altar-piece, which
has been more recently presented by Sir Richard
Worsley, once formed a part of the collection of
the Prince of Conde at Chantilly. The subject is
the Adoration, painted by Rubens. — A gallery has
recently been constructed between the president's
lodgings and the chapel, in which is an interesting
picture of the founder^ when he was aged and blind,
by Corvus, a Fleming. In the same gallery, are the
portraits of the seven bishops who were sent to the
Tower by command of James the Second.*'
V. Christ (or Christ's) Church College was found-
«d by Cardinal Wolsey. In the year 15-24, he
commenced the great work. As a preparatory step,
he procured bulls from the Pope for the suppression
of several priories and nunneries, which, together,
yielded au annual revenue of nearly 2000/. An
income to this amount he was authorized, by letters
patent from the king, to settle on his new institution,
to which he gave the name of Cardinal College, and
the buildings of which he commenced on the si to of
an ancient priory dedicated to St. Fridiswida. The
original design of Wolsey was extensive beyond
* The following are amongst the eminent persons educated
here: — Jewell, Bishop of Salisbury-; Dr. Richard Pococke,
Bishop of Meatli, the Oriental traveller; Dr. John Rainohls,
contemporary will) Jewell; Dr. Turner ; Ba^il Rennet (four-
precedent. The society was to consist of one hun-
dred and sixty persons, the chief of whom were to
be engaged in the study of the sciences, divinity,
canon and civil law, the arts, physic, and polite
literature. Divine service was to be continually per-
formed ; and he had collected the best architects of
the age to project a concentration of beauties in the
arrangements of the buildings. But, before these
intentions could be carried into entire effect, the
cardinal experienced disgrace ; and the revenues be-
stowed by Wolsey, with the incomplete portions of
building raised under his inspection, were pathe-
tically consigned by him to the fostering clemency
of the king. — Henry, in 1532, became a patron to
the foundation ; but he was determined to preclude
the discarded favourite from all nominal participation
in the merit of the undertaking, and he refounded
the society, under the term of" King Henry VIII. 's
College, in Oxford." He endowed the institution
with a revenue equal to that intended by W'olsey,
and directed the gross sum to be applied to the main-
tenance of a dean and twelve canons, who should
form a body corporate. In 1545, the charter was
surrendered to the king. Among the dissolved re-
ligious houses, on the ruins of which Henry erected
bishops' sees, Oseney Abbey, contiguous to Oxford,
was one. But his increasing wants led him to re-
duce this abbey, and to translate the cathedral
church to St. Fridiswida's. The institution then
became an appendage to the cathedral, and both its
former names were lost in that of " The Cathedral
Church of Christ, in Oxford, of King Henry VIII.'s
foundation." This foundation was now declared to
consist of a bishop, with his archdeacon (removed
from the church of Lincoln, in which diocese Oxford
had hitherto remained,) and a dean and eight canons.
The principal estates were, at the same time, con-
signed to the persons recognised as forming the
chapter, on condition of their maintaining three pub-
lic professors of Divinity, Hebrew,- and Greek; one
hundred students in theology, arts, and philosophy ;
eight chaplains, and a suitable choir. — In the 17th
century some few benefactors arose, among whom
was Dr. Busby of Westminster. He bequeathed a
sum of money for the institution of a catechetical
lecture, to be read in one of the parish churches of
Oxford by a member of this society. Bishop Fell
also contributed ten exhibitions of 10/. per annum
each ; and Dr. JLee, physician to George II. left
20,000/. chiefly for the purpose of erecting an anato-
mical theatre. — The principal buildings of this col-
lege consist of the cathedral, two spacious quadran-
gles, and two smaller courts. The great west front
conveys the ideas of amplitude, magnificence, and
power. In the centre is the gateway, over which
rises a stately tower. This tower was begun by
teenth president of Corpus) the writer on the Antii]»iti«s of
Home ; Richard Edwards, an early dramatic aviter ; Brian
Twyne ; Hales ; Dr. Fiddes, the biographer of Wolsey ; Antis,
the herald ; Sir Ashlon Lever ; Thomas Day, Esq. &c.
Wolsey,
OXFORDSHIRE.
Wolsey, but completed by Sir Christopher Wren
in 1681, according to a plan of his own forming.
In this tower is suspended the much-famed bell,
called Great Tom, which originally belonged to
Oseney Abbey, but was recast in 1680. It weighs
17,000 pounds, and bears this inscription ; Magnus
Thoma» clusiits Vjconieiisis. When this bell tolls, at
nine in the cTening, the scholars are directed by the
University statutes to retire to their respective col-
leges.— A series of uniform building, adapted to the
reception of students, extends on either side, and
both extremities are terminated by double turrets,
with an elevated bay window between. The whole
length of the front is 382 feet. — The grand western
quadrangle, which is entered through this gateway,
is the only part of the extensive buildings in which
Wolsey was enabled to exercise his architectural
taste and princely spirit. On March 20, 1525, the
Cardinal laid the first stone, in the presence of the
chief members of the University. — The quadrangle
thus founded unites simplicity with Gothic grandeur.
The buildings are finely proportioned, and the whole
court is nearly parallelogramical, being 264 feet by
261 feet in the clear. The hall nils more than half
of the southern side ; the east and north sides are
occupied by splendid ranges of apartments for the
dean and canons. The kitchen is constructed on
the south of the hall ; and is, perhaps, the noblest
•building of its kind in Europe. In the centre of
the court is a basin, in which is placed the statue of
Mercury. The back front of the great tower of
entrance is ornamented by a statue of Queen Anne,
and by the arms of Henry VIII. ; of Cardinal Wol-
sey ; of the see of Oxford, &c. Over a gateway
on the north-east is a statue of Bishop Fell ; and
the entrance to the hall is surmounted by a statue of
Wolsey, placed there by Trelawney, Bishop of Win-
chester, in 1719. The second great quadrangle of
Christ Church, termed Peckvvater Court, chiefly
occupies the site of two inns, or hotels, the one
-called Peckwater (from the name of its original pos-
sessor) and the other Vine Hall. The southern side
consists entirely of the library and annexed apart-
ments (begun in 1716, from a design by Dr. Clarke ;)
the other divisions contain superb ranges of lodgings
for students, and were built in 1705, under the in-
spection of Dean Aldrich. The expense of the un-
dertaking was defrayed by the dean and canons. The
front of the library is 141 feet in length, adorned with
massive pillars of the Corinthian order. Each of the
other sides contains three stories, the lower of which
is rustic, and supports a range of architecture of
the Ionic order. Pilasters are placed between each
division of windows, except the five which are cen -
tral in each side, and over these is a projecting
pediment sustained by three-quarter columns with
Ionic capitals, and a balustrade of stone finishes
the whole. Canterbury Square is a small quadran-
gle, judiciously built in conformity to the order of
Peckwater, to which it immediately leads. On the
site of this court formerly stood a hall, founded and
VOL. iv. — NO. 147.
endowed by Simon Islip, Archbishop of Canterbury,
of which Wickliffe was once warden, and in which
Sir Thomas More studied. This court, as it now
appears, was designed by Wyatt, and completed in
1783, chiefly through the liberal aid of Richard
Robinson, Baron Rokeby, late Lord Primate of
Ireland. The gateway leading to this square forms
a principal approach to the college. The chaplain's
court consists of a few irregular ranges, completed
in 1672. — The Cathedral is one of the most interest-
ing objects connected with the college. The present
spire was constructed by Wolsey ; but the chief parts
can be traced to the reign of Jlenry I. ; and the
style of architecture proves that it in reality owes its
foundation to a much earlier period. The church
is cruciform, with a square tower, surmounted by
a spiral steeple, rising in the centre. Though in
ferior to the splendid edifice of Oseney Abbey, it
was originally more extensive than at present. Fifty
feet at the western end, with the whole west side of
the cloister, and the rooms adjoining, were pulled
down by Wolsey, when be laid the foundation of his
college. The length of the building from east to
west is now 154 feet, and the aisle which crosses
from north to south is 102 feet long. The cathedral
is entered by a doorway of Saxon architecture. The
choir is ornamented with a Gothic roof of splendid
tracery work, constructed either by Wolsey, or Bi-
shop King. The eastern window is embellished with
a representation of the Nativity, by Price, of Lon-
don, from a design by Sir James Thornhill. The
dormitory, north of the choir,' contains several ancient
monuments. A large altar-tomb, believed to be that
of St. Fridiswida, is surmounted by a shrine, lofty,
and richly adorned with tracery. The lower division
is of stone, and the two upper compartments are of
wood. St. Fridiswida died Oct. 19, 740, and her
shrine is said to have been first placed in a chapel on
the south side of the church ; but being nearly de-
stroyed in the conflagration which took place in con-
sequence of the assault made on the Danes, in 1002,
it was neglected until 1 180, when it was removed to
its present situation. A new shrine was raised in
1289 ; but this was destroyed in the reign of Heury
VIII. so that the presumed bones of the saint, which
were not iuterred, but merely deposited on the shrine,
are supposed by Wood to have been irrecoverably
lost, while those afterwards shewn in two silken bags
were only feigned. Near the shrine of St. Fridis-
wida is the rich monument of Lady Elizabeth Mon-
tacute, who died in 1353, with her effigies in the
costume of the time. In the same range is the tomb
of Guimond, the first prior, with his effigies in a
recumbent posture, the feet resting on a lion. He
had been chaplain to Henry I. and died in 11 49. The
ancient painted windows of Christ Church were
chiefly removed when the internal alterations took
place in 1630 ; but the new windows then placed in
their room were much injured by the fanatics in the
civil war. Some, however, were preserved, and are
entitled to attention. The chapel in which Latin
z prayers
90
OXFORDSHIRE.
prayers are read opens into the eastern cloisters. —
The hall of Christ Church, built under the direction
of Wolsey, is 115 feet long, by 40 in breadth. The
ceiling is of Irish oak, beautifully carved, with occa-
sional insertions of gilding. The windows are of
intersected Gothic, and the whole flooring is of
stone. Amongst an extensive collection of portraits,
are an original half-length of Wolsey, with a per-
spective view of the hall introduced through a win-
dow in the corner of the picture ; a fine whole length
of Henry VIII. ; Queen Elizabeth, with a slender
waist, an immense hoop, and the sleeves of her dress
thickly padded ; Compton, Bishop of London, by
Sir Peter Lely ; Bishop Saunderson, by Riley ; Dr.
Busby, &c. The roof of the stairway which leads
to the hall is vaulted, and ornamented with bold
and beautiful varieties of Gothic embellishment.
Under the hall is the common room, in which are
several good portraits. The building formed in
Peckwater Square, for the intention of a library, is
•now divided into two ranges, in the upper of which
are numerous valuable books ; and in the lower is
an extensive collection of pictures bequeathed by-
General Guise. The part used as a library is 111
leet long ; and thirty feet wide. On one side is a
gallery, and over every class of books are symbols,
in stucco, allusive to that peculiar branch of litera-
ture. The ceiling, also, is richly ornamented with
stucco work. The library is also rich in manuscripts,
prints, coins, &c. The Theatre of Anatomy, founded
and endowed by Dr. Lee, physician to George II.
contains a good collection of anatomical preparations.
The grounds appertaining to Christ Church are very
fine; and the chief walk, a quarter of a mile in
length, is shaded with elms on either side.* To
the number of students named by the last charter,
one has been added by the liberality of William
Thurston, Esq. of London. Queen Elizabeth di-
rected, in 1561, that there should bean annual elec-
tion from Westminster-school. The other vacancies
are filled at the option of the Dean and Chapter.
The society now consists (independently of the bishop
and his archdeacon) of a dean, eight canons, one
hundred and one students, three professors, eight
chaplains, and a suitable choir. There is no visitor
but the king, or persons appointed by his Majesty
VI. Exeter College consists chiefly of one qua-
drangle, the front of which is 220 feet in length.
The chief gate of entrance is in the centre, sur-
mounted by a magnificent tower, the two faces of
k The following great names, amongst many others, reflect
honour upon this college: Dr. Fell, Bishop of Oxford ; Dean
Aklrich; Atterbury, Bishop of Rochester ; Dr. Robert South ;
Archbishop Wake ; Edward Sackville, Earl of Dorset ; Lord
Lyttleton ; William, Earl Mansfield ; Lord Bolingbroke ;
Charles Boyle, Earl of Orrery ; Villiers, Duke of Bucking-
ham; Sir Philip Sydney ; Sir Thomas Hanmer ; Locke; the
learned and indefatigable Camden ; Dr. Friend ; Casaubon ;
Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania ; Ben Johnson ; Otway ;
Randolph; Edmund Smith; Gilbert West; John Philips;
George Colman, &c.
t Walter de Stapledon is supposed to have been born at
which are of similar construction. — The interior of
the quadrangle is nearly a parallelogram of 135 feet.
The chapel, occupying a large portion of one side,
is a neat and solid Gothic structure ; and the adjoin-
ing residence of the rector is of correspondent cha-
racter. The hall, ascended by a flight of steps. also
corresponds with the other parts of the quadrangle.
— This college, founded by Walter de Stapledon,
Bishop of Exeter, about 1315, is intimately con-
nected with another foundation from the same hand,
now termed Hertford College.t— It was in 1312 that
Bishop Stapledon purchased llert-hall, and a con-
tiguous messuage, for the accommodation of twelve
scholars ; but, three years afterwards, he procured
premises on the site of the present college, and re-
moved the rector and scholars, though he still
retained the privileges of the original foundation
charter, and appeared to consider the former insti-
tution as a permanent appendage to the latter. The
society was to consist of thirteen persons, one to be
instructed in canon-law, or theology, and the others
in philosophy ; eight to be chosen from Devonshire,
and four from Cornwall. New benefactors soon
arose; and, in 1404, Edmund Stafford,. Bishop of
Exeter, altered the statutes and added two fellow-
ships from the diocese of Salisbury. Sir William
Petre, (founder of the noble house distinguished by
his name,) was also a benefactor of eminence- He
founded here eight fellowships, from five specified
counties, or from any others in which he or his de-
scendants might possess estates. He also, procured
a new body of statutes for the college, and a regular
deed of incorporation. — 'Charles the First endowed
one fellowship ; Sir John Ackland contributed to.-
wards the improvement of the buildings; Samuel
Hill, rector of Warlegan, in Cornwall, founded four
scholarships ; Sir John Maynard instituted two lec-
tures, in divinity, and on the Oriental languages ;
and lady Siiiers, of Slyfield- house in Surrey, and
Dr. George Hukcwill, were useful benefactors. —
There was not any chapel comprehended in the
foundation of Bishop Stapledon, but a licence was
soon obtained to erect one, which was completed in
1326. In 1624, this was converted into a library ;
and, in the same year, the present chapel (begun in
1622) was finished, chiefly at the expense of Dr.
Hakewill. This neat edifice possesses the pecu-
liarity of two aisles, and is lighted by eight Gothic
windows. Dr. Prideaux preached the consecration
sermon. — The hall is a handsome Gothic building,
Annery, near Great Torringion. in Devonshire, lie was ad-
vanced to the bishopric of Exeter in 1307 ; and by Edward II.
he was appointed lord-treasurer, and employed in many matters
of state. When the royal household pursued separate interests,
De Stapledon adhered to his ill-fated master, and fell a victim
to party fury. He was seized by the populace in 1326, as he
was walking in a public street of London, and beheaded by
them near the north door of St. Paul's church. Uis body was
contumeliously buried in a heap of sand, at the back of his own
house near Temple-bar ; but a monument has since been con-
structed to the honour of his memory in Exeter cathedral, by
the rector aiid fellows of this college"
erected
OXFORDSHIRE.
91
erected by Sir John Ackland in tlie 17th century.
The roof and screen are of carved oak ; and the
sides are ornamented by several portraits. The
college possessed no library till about the year 1383,
when a small room was erected for the reception of
the valuable books bequeathed to the society. The
books were subsequently removed to the original
chapel; but, in 1709, an accidental fire consumed
the interior of that building and the principal part
of the works there deposited. In 1778, a complete
new library was erected ; and the old chapel was
pulled down. The plan of the modern edifice was
given by the Rev. William Crowe, the public ora-
tor.- This building contains a fine collection of
Aldine classics. Beyond the quadrangle are gar-
dens, disposed with much taste.* — The present
members of this society are a rector, twenty-five
fellows, one scholar, who is a bible clerk, and ten
exhibitioners.
VII. Hertford College, as already stated, was
founded by Bishop Stapledon. When he removed
the scholars of his foundation, TIert Hall continued
open as a place of education. The power of naming
the principals was vested in the members of Exeter
College until 1740, when Dr. Newton (then prin-
cipal) obtained a royal charter for converting the hall
into a perpetual college ; the society to consist of a
principal ; four senior, and eight junior, fellows ;
eight probationary students ; twenty-four actual
students, and four scholars. To this new foundation
he gave the title of Hertford College, but directed
in the statutes that any other name might be affixed
by a more extensive benefactor. The whole struc-
ture was to form- a quadrangle, containing a chapel,
hall, and library, the principal's lodgings, and
apartments for the society ; but Dr. Newton only
succeeded in building the chapel, the principal's
lodgings, and a small portion on the south-east of
the intended quadrangle. — Of the ancient appen-
dages to Hert Hall, the refectory, built in the reign
of Elizabeth, the old principal's lodgings, with a
kitchen and some chambers over them, and the
gatehouse, above which is a library, are still re-
maining.f
VIII. Jesus College was founded by Queen
Elizabeth. Hugh ap Rice, or Price, n native of
Brecknock, who was educated at Oseney Abbey,
and was afterwards first Prebendary of Rochester,
andTreasurer ofSt. David's, observing that his coun-
trymen were scarcely ever noticed in collegiate
endowments, formed the design of instituting an
establishment at Oxford peculiarly for their benefit.
He accordingly intreated Queen Elizabeth to found
* The names subjoined, form a part of (he eminent persons
connected with this house : Dr. Prideaux, Bishop of Worcester ;
Arclibishop Seeker; Sir John Fortescue ; Henry Gary, Lord
Falkland ; the gallant James Duke Hamilton, sacrificed for
his attachment to Charles 1. ; Str Simon Baskerville, physician ;
Sir John Doddndge; Diggory VVheare ; Lord Chief-Justice
Kolle ; Henry Carey, second Earl of Monmouth ; Anthony
.Ashley Cooper, Lord Sbaftesbury ; Maundrell, the traveller ;
a college, on which he might bestow a certain pro-
perty. The queen acceded to his wish, and granted
a charter of foundation, in 1571, by which the
society was directed to consist of a principal, eight
fellows', and eight scholars, for the maintenance of
whom Dr. Price was permitted to convey estates to
the yearly value oi 160/. He also bestowed upwards
of 1500/. on the building, besides leaving a sum of
money by will, to accumulate to the beginning of
the seventeenth century, when it amounted to 700/.
The queen made a donation of timber from her
forests of Shotover and Stow. Dr. Price died in
1574, when a part only of the building was com-
pleted. No aid being received from the foundress,
the progress of the buildings was suspended. The
buildings, however, were gradually completed on
an extensive scale, and various liberal donations and
bequests placed the finances of the college on a firm
basis. The affairs of the institution at length became
so prosperous, that it was necessary frequently to
obtain royal charters permitting the college to hold
revenues to an additional amount. The places from
which the additional fellows and scholars were direct-
ed to be chosen by the respective founders are the
counties of Brecknock, Caernarvon, Monmouth,
Denbigh, Pembroke, and Cardigan ; and the schools
of Carmarthenshire, Bangor, Beaumaris, Llyn,
Ruthen, Abergavenny, and the diocese of St. Asaph.
— The buildings of Jesus College consist of two
quadrangles, the first 90 feet by 70 ; and the second,
100 feet by 90. The front towards the street was
rebuilt in the year 1756. The chapel, a low but
pleasing structure, with a small turret on the west-
ern end, stands on the north, and the hall on the
west. The remainder of the court is occupied by
ranges of apartments three stories high. The second
quadrangle is a more elevated and interesting combi-
nation. Three sides are strictly uniform, with small,
double, Gothic windows, and a range of pinnacles
on the top. The hall forms a pleasing portion of
the fourth side. The sides of this quadrangle, on
the south and north, were completed in 1610, under
the management of Dr. Mansell, then Principal. In
1676 Sir Leoline Jenkins completed the remainder
of this arduous task at his own expense. — The hall,
which forms so pleasing an ornament to both qua-
drangles, was built early in the seventeenth century,
with n residue, of the original legacy of Dr. Price,
aided by various contributions. It contains several
good portraits. — The present library, on the west
side of the inner quadrangle, was erected by Sir
Leoline Jenkins, in 1677. It is a spacious room,
and has a gallery to the whole extent of one side.
Upton, editor of Epictetus, and commentator on Shakespeare,
&c.
f Lord Buckhurst, author of Gorboduo, the first English
tragedy in blank verse; Selden ; Dr. Donne, the satirist ; Sir
William Waller, the Parliamentary general ; Sir Richard Baker,
the Chronicler ; Charles James Fox, &c. are amongst the dis-
tinguished characters educated at this college.
Among-
92
OXFORDSHIRE.
Among the books are those of the celebrated Lord
Herbert of Cherbury.— The chapel, chiefly built by
contributions, was finished in 1621. Since that
period, however, it has been lengthened on the east,
and now consists of three divisions. The altar-piece
is a copy of Guide's picture, representing St. Mi-
chael's triumph over the Devil.— Here are an im-
mense bowl of gilded silver, which weighs 278
ounces, and will contain ten gallons, presented by
a late Sir Watkia Williams Wynne ; a metal watch,
giren by Charles the First ; and a huge stirrup,
pressed, by the foot of Elizabeth, when she honoured
the University with a visit.*
IX. Lincoln College was founded by Richard
Flemming, or Flemmynge, Bishop of Lincoln, f —
In 1427, be obtained the licence to found a society
of students in tins church of All Saints, Oxford,
and to unite that church with those of St. Mildred
and St. Michael ; the incorporated edifices to be
named the church of All Saints, and to be erected
into a collegiate church, or college. The society to
consist of a warden, or rector, seven scholars, and
two chaplains. The rector and scholars were to be
perpetual parsons of the intended collegiate church ;
and it was expressly stated that they were to employ
the whole of their talents in opposition to Wickliffe
and his followers. Shortly alter the royal license
was obtained, the bishop purchased grounds for the
erection of the buildings ; but his death, in 1430,
retarded the commencement of the structure. The
students resided for some time in a tenement called
Deep Hall ; but they speedily met with fresh patrons,
among whom were Cardinal Beaufort, and Thomas
Rotheram, Bishop of Lincoln. The latter was so
extensive a benefactor, that he has usually been
allowed to share in the honour of the foundation. J
— The first idea of his benefaction occurred while
on a visit to his diocese, as Bishop of Lincoln, in
1470. He contributed largely to the erection of
convenient buildings, and increased the number of
fellows from seven to twelve, and bestowed two
livings. When the institution was thus established,
fresh benefactors speedily arose. Among these were
Bishop Smyth, the liberal founder of Brasen Nose ;
Edward Darby, M.A. follow of the college, and
Archdeacon of Stow, who founded three fellowships ;
Joan Trapps, the widow of a goldsmith in London ;
* The following are some ol the distinguished names con-
nected with this college : Sir Eubule Tlielwall ; Sir Leoline
Jenkins ; William Lloyd, Bishop of Worcester, one of the
seven prelates ordered to the tower by James the Second ; Dr.
Wyne, Bishop of St. Asaph ; David Powel, the antiquary ;
John Davis, the Lexicographer ; Kees Prichard.a Welch poet ;
Edward Lloyd, an antiquary and botanist ; and, Dr. Henry
Owen, and Dr. Worthington, two able writers in theology.
f He was boru at Crofton, in Yorkshire, and educated at
University College., In the early part of life he was zealously
attached to the principles of Wickliffe, but he changed his
opinions, and even condescended to execute that decree of the
Council of Constance, which directed the bones of Wickliffe
to be taken from their place of sepulture, and publicly
burned. He was advanced to the see of Lincoln in 1420, and
Mrs. Joyce Frankland, her daughter ; Nathaniel,
Lord Crew, Bishop of Durham ; and Dr. Marshall,
Rector, and Dean of Gloucester. — The buildings of
this college are comprised in two quadrangles, the
one a parallelogram of eighty, and the other of
seventy, feet The front towards the street is low
and irregular, having a plain square tower, with a
turret at one angle, over the chief entrance. The
first court was begun soon after the founder's death,
and was completed by Rotherhatn, and Bishop Beck-
ington. This division, contains the hall, the library,
the rector's lodgings, the common room, and various
apartments for scholars. The arms of Rotherham,
and the rebus of Beckington's name, (a beacon and
a tun) are on several parts of the walls. — The south
court, or smaller quandrangJe, is, like the other, plain
and low, but the neat Gothic face of the chapel, sur-
mounted by an embattled parapet, imparts interest
to this portion of the building. The south court was
constructed about the year 1612, and a part of the
expense was borne by Sir Thomas Rotherham. Six
additional sets of rooms were built by the society,
in 1750. — The chapel, erected by Archbishop Wil-
liams, and consecrated in 1631, by Dr. Corbet,
Bishop of Oxford, is 62 feet long, by 26 in breadth.
The exterior is a pleasing instance of the peculiar
adaptation of the Gothic style to places of religious
service. The ceiling is richly ornamented with the
arms of the founder, and of benefactors. The screen
is of cedar, curiously carved. The windows are
filled with painted glass, from Italy. The com-
partment over the altar, on the east, contains the
types and antetypes, of the era of redemption : the
others consists of portraitures of the apostles and
various prophets. — The hall, on the east side of the
first quadrangle, was built by Dean Forest, in 1636,
but the interior was repaired, and arranged, by
Lord Crew, Bishop of Durham, in 1701. This
room has an unornamented roof, of a semicircular
construction. — During the fanatical war, the greater
part of the collection of books was destroyed, and
the library was converted, in 1656, into chambers.
Sir Nathaniel Lloyd, educated in the college, con-
tributed, in 1739, 500/. to the restoration of the
library. The collection has since found many bene-
factors, and been much enriched by some Greek and
Latin manuscripts. § — The society now consists of a
rector,
four years afterwards distinguished himself so much in a Coun-
cil, at Sienna, that Pope Martin V. was desirous of promoting
him to the Archbishopric of York ; but the king, and the dean
and chapter, so strongly opposed the measure, that Flemming
deemed it expedient to retire to his diocese of Lincoln.
{ The family name of this prelate was Scot, and he derived
his surname from Ralherham, in Yorkshire, the place of his
birth. He was educated at Cambridge, and was for some time
Chancellor of that University. He was successively Bishop of
Rochester and Lincoln, and Archbishop of York ; keeper of
the Privy Seal, and Lord Chancellor.
§ The following are some of the eminent persons, claimed
by this house: Robert Flemming, arelation of the founder, and
Dean of Lincoln ; Edward Weston, an acute disputant on the
side of the Romanists ; Richard Brett, one of the translators of
the
OXFORDSHIRE.
91
rector, twelve fellows, eight scholars, thirteen exhi-
bitioners, and u bible clerk.
X. Magdalen College was founded by William
of Wayufleet, Bishop of Winchester, eldest son of
Richard Patten, of Waynfleet, in Lincolnshire.*
Bishop 'of Waynfleet obtained, in 1448, a licence to
build a hall for- students, with an annexed revenue
of 100/. per annum. This hall he dedicated to St.
]Vlary Magdalen, and settled in it a president, thir-
teen master fellows, and seven bachelor fellows, or
scholars. Soon afterwards he gained permission to
convert the whole buildings and premises, belong-
ing to an hospital dedicated to St. John, into a
college ; and in 1457, the hospitallers surrendered
their building, with all its valuable possessions, into
the hands of the president and scholars of Magdalen
Hall, on condition of receiving maintenance for life.
In 1458, Bishop Waynfleet placed in his new college
a president and six fellows ; and the president and
scholars of Magdalen Hall surrendered their house
to the college, and joined the society — The founda-
tion-stone of the new buildings was laid in May,
1173 ; and the greater portion was completed before
the founder's decease. The society was made to
consist of forty fellows, thirty scholars, or demies,
four chaplains, eight clerks, and sixteen choristers.
Among the chief benefactors were Sir John Fastolft';
William, Earl of Arundel, who gave to the society
the hospital of St. John and St. James, in Nor-
thamptonshire ; Ralph Freman, Esq. who bequeath-
ed Fremaifs Court, near the Royal Exchange,
London ; and John Norris, Esq. who left 5QOL for
the advancement of a new building. The institution
soon became so opulent that its revenues were valued,
in 1535, at 1076/. 5s. 2«/. per annum. — This college
stands at the eastern extremity of the city, on the
border of the Cherweil. The side towards the
High-street is ornamented by a lofty tower, of beau-
tiful proportions, with an open parapet at the top,
surmounted by eight jagged pinnacles. The chief
entrance (o the college is on the western side, through
a modern portal, of the Doric order, which leads to
Gothic courts on every front, and through every
cloister ! In front is the ancient entrance (now dis-
useil) to the great quadrangle. This gateway is
worked under an august Gothic tower, enriched with
statues of King Henry the Third, of the founder, of
St. John the Bitptist and St. Mary Magdalen, each
placed beneath a canopy of delicate construction.
Above the gate is the founder's chamber, lighted by
a lofty oriel which comprises three ranges of Gothic
windows. — On the right is the west entrance to the
chapel, a beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture,
the Bible ; Arthur Hopton, an able mathematician ; Sir William
Davnnaiit, Poet Laureate ; Dr. Sanderson ; Archbishop Pot-
ter; Hervey, the author of Theron ami Aspasio ; and John
\Vesley.
•{• The bishop was educated at Winchester school, and after-
wards removed to Oxford. At au early as;e he was appointed
schoolmaster of Winchester ; anc.1 .was subsequently chosen by
Henry the Sixth, to superintend the school founded at Eton,
and was soon appointed provost. On the death of Cardinal
VOL. iv. — NO. 148.
adorned with five small figures in canopied niches.
One of these represents the founder, in a kneeling
posture. The others are intended for William of
Wykham ; King Henry the Third, (who was a
patron of the hospital converted into this college;)
St. Mary Magdalen and St. John the Baptist. — On
the left. hand of the court are the president's lodg-
ings ; and, in a corner of the opposite side is a plain
but handsome stone pulpit, from which an annual ser-
mon was formerly preached on the festival of St. John
the Baptist. — The great quadrangle, which is entered
through this court.is composed of the chapel, the hall,
the library, a part of the president's lodgings, and
chambers for the fellows and demies. ' A fine cloister
runs to the extent of each side, the roof of which is of
ribbed oak. In the year 1509, a series of large hiero-
glyphic figures of sculptured stone was placed, at re-
gular distances, on each interior part of the court.
These figures were originally coloured, and have
caused many conjectures among the curious. The ma-
jority of enquirers ha vebeen contented to suppose that
they were merely the offspring of such a fantastical
taste as often led Gothic architects and designers
to labour at delighting through the medium of asto-
nishment ; but William Reeks, a fellow of the col-
lege at the latter part of the 17th century, has endea-
voured to prove that these mystical figures were really
meant to inculcate lessons of scholastic discipline. —
The court of entrance, and the largest quadrangle,
with its appendant buildings, comprehend nearly
the whole of the structure designed by the founder.
Shortly after the erection of the tower, a range of
chambers was constructed under the denomination,
of the Chaplain's Court, and some additional rooms
were built, towards the east, in 1635.— A.t the begin-
ning of tho-last century a plan was formed to build a
new quadrangle, and to take down three sides of
the venerable court raised by Bishop Waynfleet.
The design was prepared by Edward tloldsworth,
M.A. Towards this intended alteration the members
contributed very liberally ; and, in 1733, the foun-
dation of one side of the new quadrangle was laitf.
This range is finished ; and, as a building fund has
been long accumulating, it seems probable that the
society will, at length, be enabled to carry its wishes
into execution. — That part of the intended quadran-
gle which is finished consists of chambers for stu-
dents, and is three hundred feet in length. Tl»o
elevation contains three series of rooms, all equally
capacious, lofty, and convenient. The outside is
plain, but handsome and substantial, with nn arcade
to the whole length, the roof of which is ornamented
with stucco work.-— The chapel is a beautiful Gothic
Beaufort he was appointed to the »ee of Winchester ; and, in
1456, he was appointed Lord Chancellpr, which pffite lie /ille.d
tillJuly 1 460, when it was found expedient for him to resign. He
still retained the confidence of Henry, and was in attendance
on that monarch at Northampton only a few (lays before the
defeat of the Lancastrian army. After this he retired from
political interference, and lived till the year 1486. He was
interred in a magnificent eiiapej, which forms a part of Winches-
ter cathedral.
2 A structure,
OXFORDSHIRE.
structure, divided, as was customary, into two parts.
The roof of the ante-chapel is supported by two fine
Gothic columns ; and this portion of the building
contains numerous monuments of persons connected
with the college. — The inner chapel retains much of
its original sublimity of Gothic character, and is,
on the whole, highly finished and peculiarly elegant.
The body is lighted by ten windows, painted with
apostolical figures, in claro obscnro. The west
window contains the Last Judgment, after a design
by Christopher Schwarts. There are, also, eight
very fine windows in the ante-chapel, executed from
designs of Eggington. — The altar was constructed
early in the last century, and corresponds with the
other modern parts of the chapel in possessing
embellishments of the Corinthian order. The altar-
piece, by Fuller, represents the Last Judgment.
There is a fine painting immediately beneath ; a
representation of our Saviour bearing his Cross,
supposed to be the production of Moralez, styled
El Divino, a Spanish artist of the 16th century. —
The screen and pannelling of the chapel, enriched
•with Grecian ornaments, were put up ia 1740 ; but
the new roof, of Gothic character, was designed by
Wyatt. An excelli-nt organ has been presented by
Mr. Freman, in the place of that removed by order
of Oliver Cromwell. — The library, a low but exten-
sive room, has been considerably improved by the
liberality of Dr. Warner, Bishop of Rochester. —
The outside of the hall is by no means so conspicuous
for beauty as many other parts of the original build-
ings ; but the interior is spacious, well-proportioned,
and elegant. The wainseotting is carved in a curi-
ous and fanciful manner, and the room also contains
a carving of Henry the Eighth. The roof is of
modern Gothic. Many portraits ornament the walls,
and the collection is enriched by a small whole length
painting of St. Mary Magdalen. — Magdalen College
is required by its statutes to entertain the kings of
England, and their eldest sons, whenever they visit
Oxford ; in consequence of which flattering duty
the hull has been honoured by the presence of many
of the, most interesting personages connected with
our national annals. The pleasure-grounds are of
the most inviting description. Approximating to
the new buildings is a division termed the Grove,
which is a fine tract, well stored with venerable
elms, and stocked with deer. Round an adjacent
meadow, on the banks of the river Cherwell, are
long and devious promenades, termed the Water-
Walks. Through the umbrageous fence which orna-
ments these walks on either side are caught occa-
sional views of the surrounding country ; and the
whole seems to speak of academical quiet and ele-
gant ease. Both the Grove and the Water-walk
are believed to have been first formed in the reign
of Elizabeth. The ancient oak appertaining to Mag-
* The two cardinals, Wolsey and Pole ; Dean Colet ; Sir
Thomas Rowe, the ambassador; Hampden, the patriot; Hey-
liu, the ecclesiastical historian i W liters, the poet ; Adtlison;
dalen College was long an object of interest and
curiosity. This tree stood at the entrance of the
Water- walks, and was known to be nearly OHO years
old. Its height was seventy-one feet ; its girth
twenty-one feet ; and its cubic contents 754 feet.
This majectic tree fell, through decay, in the year
1789. A chair made from its wood has been
placed in the president's lodgings. — The society
consists of a president, forty fellows, thirty demies,
a divinity lecturer, four chaplains, eight clerks, and
sixteen choristers. No commoners are admitted.*
XI. Merton College, the most ancient incorpo-
rated establishment in the University, was founded
by Walter de Merton, Bishop of Rochester, and
Chancellor of England in the reign of Henry the
Third. He was the son of William de Merlon,
Archdeacon of Berks, from whom he inherited con-
siderable property. His death was occasioned by
a fall from his horse, in 1277, and he was interred
in Rochester cathedral. — The foundation charter of
Merton College is dated 1264, and the establish -
ment is termed Domiis Scholarium de Merton. A
second charter was afterwards obtained ; and a third
in 1274, at winch time the plan of De Merton was
matured. The number of scholars was to fluctuate
with the state of the collegiate resources ; the pre-
scribed stipend of each was fifty shillings per annum.
— The first benefactor in aid of the institution was
Ela Longespee, Countess of Warwick, who be-
queathed, about the year 1295, some lands to the
society, on condition of their saying masses for her
eternal rest. John Willyott, Chancellor of Exeter,
in 1380, bestowed lands, &c. for the assistance of
exhibitioners, since called Portionistie, or Portmas-
ters. The number of these was usually twelve, till
the early part of the reign of James the First, when
John Chambers, formerly a fellow of Merton, in-
creased their number to fourteen. The provision for
these exhibitioners was scanty ; but the fund for
their maintenance is considerably increased. — Two
of the early wardens (Henry Sever, and Richard
Fitz-James,) bestowed so much attention on the in-
terests of the college, that they have been almost per-
mitted to share the credit of foundership with Bishop.
Merton. William Reid, Bishop of Chichester, and
Sir Thomas Bodley, instituted a fund from which
occasional sums were to be lent to the fellows ; and.
the former also contributed largely to the buildings.
Four scholars were added from the natives of Ox-
ford, by Henry Jackson, minor canon of St. Paul's
Cathedral. — This College, to the east of Corpus
Christi, consists of three courts. Little of the
building erected by the founder is remaining. The
principal front is an irregular pile, rebuilt in 1580,
with an exception of the tower, and the gate which
forms the ehief entrance, which were constructed by
Thomas Rodburne, Bishop of St. David's, in 1410.
Collins ; Gibbon ; Boulter, Archbishop of Armagh ; and.
Hough, Bishop of Worcester, were educated here.
TUe,
OXFORDSHIRE.
The gate is ornamented with statues of Henry
the Third and the founder, in canopied niches,
and with a sculptured tablet expressive of the his-
tory of St. John the Baptist. The great north
window, which abuts on the street, is a beautiful
specimen of florid Gothic architecture. — The first
court is small, and destitute of all uniformity of
architectural features. Here are the warden's
lodgings, a low building, supposed to be in part
coeval with the foundation. — A handsome arch leads
to the inner quadrangle, formed in 1610, 110 feet
long, nnd 100 in breadth. This court is regular,
in a pleasing Gothic, except a central elevation on
the southern side, where we find successive ranges
of pillars of the Corinthian, Doric, Ionic, and Tus-
can orders. — Two sides of the third court are occu-
pied by the library, founded by William Rede, Bishop
of Chiciiester, in 137ft, and the most ancient struc-
ture of its kind in England. It is a low building,
with a range of narrow oblong windows surmounted
by four low towers, lighted by small casements. The
glass of each division has been at different times
ornamented with armorial bearings. The roof is of
wood, arranged in angular compartments ; and the
wainscotting is at one end carved into architectural
allusions. — The hall, a plain but respectable struc-
ture, ascended by a flight of steps, contains several
portraits, with a large picture by Dr. Wall, which
represents the founder's triumph over indolence and
bigotry, as exemplified in the dispersion of monkish
gloom by the introduction of scholastic discipline.
This hall has been frequently honoured by the pre-
sence of crowned heads, as it has been customary,
since the foundation of Christ Church, for the king
to reside in that college, but the queen at Merton,
during the visits of the court. — The University can
scarcely boast of a Gothic building finer than the
ehapel, which was raised about 1424, on the ruins of
an ancient pile, and is, also, the parish church of
St. John Baptist. It consists of a choir, a cross
aisle, and an ante-chapel, and has a well-proporti-
oned square tower, with an open parapet surmounted
by jagged pinnacles. The windows of the choir are
richly painted with representations of saints ; and
those of the cross aisle are fine specimens of the
pointed style of architecture ; but the great eastern
window is the most striking. The low compartments
* John Duns, or Duns Scotus, the subtle Doctor ; Will'am
Ockham, founder of the Ockhamists ; John Wickliffe, the Re-
former ; Dr. Hervey, who discovered the circulation of the
blood ; Robert Dcvereux, Earl of Essex, the parliamentary
general ; Anthony Wood ; Sir Richard Steele, &c. were of this
College.
•J- The founder of New College was born at Wykehain, in
Hampslvre, in 1324, of poor parents and he was indebted for
his education at Winchester school to the bounty of a neigh-,
bouring patron. On quitting school he was employed as secre-
tory by his early friend, and was recommended to the notice of
Edward III. Although Wykeham had not been so fortunate
as to profit by rolle^ate discipline, the extent of his acquire-
ments is proved by the high offices which he now filled with
distinguished honour. He was appointed cierk of the king's
are ornamented with painted glass by Price, ex-
pressive of different passages in scripture. The
upper sections, including* a wheel of St. Catharine,,
finely worked, are completely filled by coloured glass.
The altar- piece beneath this window isa Crucifixion,
by Tintoret. — Near the altar is the monument of Sir
Thomas Bodley, with his bust, surrounded by books,
and other emblems of study and science ; and a ceno-
taph in honour of Sir Henry Savile, who was buried
at Eton. An unornamented tablet, on the left of the
attar, records the talents and virtues of Bishop Earle.
— In the ante-chapel is a particularly fine cross, com-
memorative of Johannes Bloxham and Johannes
Whytton, the first a warden of Merton, and the latter
a benefactor to the college. Near the north door lies
Antony Wood, the antiquary.* — The society consists
of a warden, twenty-four fellows, fourteen post-
masters, four scholars, two chaplains, and two
clerks.
XII. New College was founded in 1379, by Wil-
liam of Wykehain, Bishop of Winchester,t and is
intituled in the charter Seiitte Marie College of Wyn-
cheitre, in Oxenford. The term new was, at the
period of its erection, popularly applied to the struc-
ture ; and the appellation has been continued through
every succeeding age. This college presents one of
the noblest specimens of architecture in the Uni-
versity. Wykeham began to purchase lands at Ox-
ford two years after he entered on his bishopric ; the
buildings of the college were finished six years after
the foundation stone was laid ; and in the ensuing
year, he commenced a splendid structure at Win-
chester, (on the site of the seminary in which be had
himself received education,) which was likewise
brought to perfection six years after it was begun.
The society at Oxford was made to consist of a
warden, and seventy poor scholars, twenty of whom
| were to apply to the study of Laws, and theremain-
. ing fifty to Philosophy, the Arts, and Theology.
The whole to take priest's orders within a specified
j time. The society of Winchester was formed of a
1 warden, with seventy scholars, to be instructed in
grammatical learning, for which purpose a school-
master and usher were regularly appointed. Priests,
clerks, and choristers, were appended to each soci-
ety. The school at Winchester was directed to sup-
ply the college with students, by election, and was
works at Windsor Castle in 1356 ; and, three years aflrr, was
constituted chief warden and surveyor of all the most important
buildings connected with the possessions of the sovereign.
Many valuable livings were bestowed on him bvfore the year
1363, and he was advanced to the bishopric of Winchester in
1366. His.talents were found so serviceable, that he was ap-
pointed Lord Chancellor; but, in 1371, he resigned the seal,,
in consequence of a petition from the parliament to the King,
praying that churchmen might be precluded from places of high
political trust. Richard II. reappointed him Lord Chancellor ;
but when Wykeham found that no remonstrances could divert
the infatuated monarch from courses prolific of ruin, he with-
drew from court, and devoted himself entirely to the duties of
his bishopric, and to acts of public and private beneficence.
He died in 1404, and was interred in Winchester cathedral.
rendered
OXFORDSHIRE.
rendered subject to a yearly visitation from the war-
jdens ami fellows. The college now consists of a
spacioas quadrangle, will; attached chapel, hall, and
library, a fine range of consecrated cloisters, and a
series of buildings for the use of students, termed
the Garden Court. The quadrangle, entered by a
portal, has the chapel and hall on the north, and the
library on the east. The remainder of the court is
composed of the warden's lodgings, and apartments
for the fellows. The apartments of this court were
originally only two stories high ; but, a third tier of
rooms has been added ; and modern squares have
been substituted for the former arched transom win-
dows of the edifice. The gateway-tower is pleasing,
from the justness of its proportions; and it retains
the effigies of Wykeham in one of its ornamented
niches. At the south-east end of the hall is a tower,
divided into four stories, each roofed with stone.
One of these rooms contains some interesting relics
of the founder. The quadrangle is about 168 feet
by 129. — The Garden Court, completed in 1684, in
imitation of the palace of Versailles, consists of
.three stories of high-ceiled chambers, with a battle-
ment on the top, and widens by triple breaks, to-
wards the gardens which lie extended in the front.
The cloisters, forming a collegiate appendage first
introduced by Wykeham, are ranged in a quadran-
gular form, and have an arched roof of oak. These
cloisters, with the area which they inclose, are con-
secrated for the purpose of burial, and many distin-
guished members of the institution are interred
beneath the pavement. The chapel, though despoil-
ed by the agents of Reformation, is still the most
splendid in the University. The present arrange-
ments of the interior have been chiefly made under
the direction of Wyatt. — The ante-chapel, about
eighty feet in length by thirty-six in breadth, is
supported by two staff-moulded pillars, of conspi-
cuous beauty. The choir, TOO feet long, 35 broad,
and 65 high, was paved with black and white mar-
ble in 1636. At the west end of the choir is an
organ-loft, richly adorned with Gothic allusions.
The great painted window in the ante-chapel, is
one of the finest that ever was executed. The com-
munion-table is of dove-coloured marble ; and the
face of the wall immediately above it is adorned with
five small compartments of marble sculpture in alto
relievo, by Westmacott ; representing the Saluta-
tion of the Virgin Mary ; the Nativity ; the taking
down from the Cross ; the Resurrection; and the
Ascension. — The painted windows of the ante-chapel
(with the exception of the large o;:e on the west)
are probaly coeval with the completion of the build-
ing, and were preserved in 1550, by the adroitness
of the chief officers of the college, who assured the
visitors that their finances were too low to set up
new, but promised that they would when they were
in a capacity. --'The windows on the side of the choir,
executed by.Pet-kitt, of York,, are filled with repre-
sentations of the Saviour, the Virgin Mary, the
twelve Apostles, &c. The windows on the oppo-
site are by a Flemish artist, after designs from the
school of Rubens. In each window are eight figures
of saints, martyrs, &c. with symbolical allusions.
The glass of these windows, when removed from
Flanders, was procured by Price the younger, of
whom it was purchased by the members of New
College. — The great west window, which far excels
every other effort of painting on glass, in the Uni-
versity, was begun about the year 1776, from finished
cartoons by Sir Joshua Reynolds, and was executed
by Jervais. The lower range is divided into seven
compartments, about twelve feet high, and three feet
wide, in each of which is placed an allegorical
figure, the whole seven representing the Cardinal
and Christian Virtues. Temperance, moderate even
in water, which she is pouring from a larger vessel
into a smaller. Fortitude, a fine figure, replete with
expression, her hand resting on a broken column,
which is erect, though in fragments. Faith, firmly
fixed on both feet, and bearing a cross. Charity
occupies the central compartment, and is allegorized,
as usual, by a female figure in the act of taking
children to her shelter. Hope, glancing towards
heaven, and scarcely touching the earth through
eagerness of anticipation. Justice, described as
looking through the shade which her own arms casts
over her face. A steelyard is substituted for the
usual accompaniment of scales. Prudence, on her
right arm an arrow joined with a memora, the
emblems of speed and deliberation. — The chief efforts
of the artist are, however, displayed in the upper
compartment of the window ; the size of which is
not less than eighteen feet in height, and teu in
width. The .subject is the Nativity ; and, in many
respects, a finer combination was never produced by
Reynolds. The composition principally consists of
thirteen figures. Among these a group of angels,
newly descended to the stable, and kneeling round
the babe, is exceedingly fine. In the clouds above
is introduced an angel, pondering over the mystery
of redemption through the cross ; and, at no great
distance, is written on a scroll, the original Greek of
the text, " Mysteries which the angels themselves
desire to look into." Among the shepherds who
are approaching to offer devotions, are inserted por-
traits of the two artists, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and
Jervais. The colouring of this fine window is tem-
perate, though rich, and the whole approximates more
nearly to nature than any effort of glass-painting
before the time of Jervais. — In a recess near the
altar is preserved the crosier of the founder, com-
posed of silver, highly gilt and enamelled. — The
hall, one of the most spacious rooms in the Univer-
sity, was, early in the sixteenth century, lined with
wuinscotting, curiously carved. The windows are
ornamented with anus and devices ; and over the
screen is placed a fine picture, by one of the Curacci,
ot the Shepherd's homage to Christ, immediately
subsequent to the Nativity, presented to the society
by the Earl of Radnor. — The library consists of
two rooms, one on the second, and the othtr on the
third
OXFORDSHIRE.
third story. The first contains books of divinity ;
and the upper room (the interior of which has been
rebuilt by Wyatt) is dedicated to works of miscel-
laneous literature. — The gardens are extensive, and
are laid out with much taste.* — The present mem-
bers of the society are a warden, seventy fellows,
ten chaplains, three clerks, and sixteen choristers. In
regard to two fellowships, a preference is given to
the founder's kindred, who are admitted fellows with-
out two years of probation, which is required from
all other candidates. The whole of the fellows are
elected from Winchester. The elections to fill up
"vacancies are held annually. The fellows of this
college, by a privilege secured by the founder, may
be admitted to all degrees in the University merely
on an examination in their own college according
to the University forms.
XIII. Oriel College was founded by Adam De
Brom, rector of Hanworth, in Middlesex, in 1315;
chancellor of the diocese of Durham in the follow-
ing year ;• archdeacon of Stow in 1319 ; and, shortly
after, promoted to the living of St. Mary, Oxford.
In 1321, he obtained permission from Edward the
Second to purchase land and premises in Oxford, to
the annual value of thirty pounds, for the purpose
of founding a college to the honour of the Virgin
Mary. He purchased an estate, and founded a
collegiate institution for the study of divinity and
logic. He then surrendered the whole into the hands
of the king, who readily placed this new institution
under his particular care. In the succeeding year
he granted a fresh charter, in which he directed the
studies of the college to be divinity and the canon-
law ; and bestowed some tenements in Oxford, and
gave the advowson of St. Mary's church, on condi-
tion of their providing chaplains for daily service. —
Adam de Brom was appointed the first provost, and
he drew a body of statutes in 1326, by which the
college is appointed to consist of a provost, and ten
fellows, seven to study divinity, and three the canon
law. He also gave the livings of Aberforth, in
Yorkshire, and Coleby, in Lincolnshire. King Ed-
ward further bestowed on the society a Inrge mes-
suage called La Oriole, to which the scholars speedily
removed, and from which possession the college
derived its name. De Brom also procured of the
king the hospital of St. Bartholomew, about half a
mile from St. Clement's church. This hospital was
required only^ as an asylum for the students in times
of pestilence, but it has since proved a source of
considerable emolument to the foundation. — John
Franke, Lord Chancellor in 1441, bequeathed 1000/.
to be employed in the purchase of lands for the
maintenance of four fellows, from the counties of
Dorset, Wilts, Somerset, and Devon. Among other
contributors, are Carpenter, Bishop of Worcester ;
Smyth, Bishop of Lincoln (founder of Brasen Nose)
Richard Dudley, chancellor of the church of Salis-
bury ; Robinson, Bishop of London ; Carter, provost
of the college from 1708 to 17-27 ; and Charles, the
fourth Duke of Beaufort. By several of these, fel-
lowships were founded, and by others the fellowships
were augmented, and livings bestowed. Queen
Anne also annexed a prebend of Rochester to the
provostship. — The original building called LaOriole,
or Oriel Hall, received such additions during the
; reign of Edward the Third, as enabled it to assume
1 the quadrangle form ; and the increasing affluence
of the college allowed the society, in the seventeenth
century, to erect the present quadrangle on a more
judicious and enlarged plan. — The front towards the
street is simple, uniform, and commanding. Over
the gateway is constructed a square tower, the face
of which is ornamented with a bay window, or oriel.
The eastern side of the quadrangle is a fine Gothic
elevation, occupied by the hall and the entrance to
the chapel. The hall is approached by a flight of
steps and a capacious portico, over which are placed,
in niches surmounted by coronal canopies, statues of
the Virgin Mary and infant Jesus, and of the kings,
Edward II. and III. At each extremity is a bold
and ornamented oriel. The provost's lodgings are
to the north ; the buildings on the south and west
are appropriated to the accommodation of other
members of the society. On the roof of the chief
gateway are the arms of King Charles ; and other
doorways are embellished with the armorial bearings
of benefactors. In addition to this quadrangle are
two ranges of building, for the reception of students,
on the east and west sides of the garden. The first
of these was finished in 1719, at the expense of
Bishop Robinson, who also founded three exhibi-
tions for bachelors. The second wing was erected
a few years after, by the liberality of George Carter,
! formerly provost. — Between these two ranges of
, building is the library, begun in 1788, under the
, direction of Wyatt. The interior is an oblong of
| eighty-three feet by twenty-eight. Here is a collec-
tion of rare works, bequeathed by Edward Lord
Leigh, of Stourleigh ; also a painting by Vasari,
the subject a group of Italian poets. — The hall,
built about 1637, is a handsome room, fifty feet in
length, and nearly twenty in breadth. The sides
are wainscotted, and embellished in the Doric style.
I — The first chapel, erected in the fourteenth cen-
1 tury, was pulled down in 1620 ; but (he new edifice
was not completed till 1642. f The east window
is embellished with the presentation of Our Savi-
our
* The following are a few of the eminent persons who have
been educated in this college: Chichele, Archbishop of Can-
terbury ; Thomas Beckington, Bishop of Bath and Wells ; John
Russel, Bishop of Lincoln, first perpetual chancellor of the
University ; William Warham, Archbishop of Canterbury, and
Ihe patron of Erasmus ; Bishop Lowth ; Sir Henry Sidney,
VOL. iv. — NO. 148.
the father of Sir Philip ; Thomas Lydiat; Dr. Bruno Ryves,
writer of tire first newspaper published in England ; Somerville
and Pitt, the poets : and the Rev. Joseph Spcnce.
f Dr. Butler, Bishop of Durham, author of the "Analo-
gy;" Robert Langlamle, the presumed author of Pierce Plow-
man ; Sir Walter Ralegh'; P.rynne, the republican ; Lord
2 B CUief
9G
OXFORDSHIRE.
from a
our in the Temple, executed by Peckitt, from
design by Dr. Wall. —The society consists of
provost, eighteen fellows, and thirteen exhibiti-
oners.
XIV. Pembroke College was founded early in
the seventeenth century, on the site of Broadgates
Hall, an ancient seminary appertaining to the priory
of St. Fridiswida.— Thomas Tesdale, of Standford
Dingley, Berkshire, who had amassed a consider-
able fortune by farming, &c. died in 1610, and
bequeathed 5000/. for the maintenance of certain
fellows and scholars from the free-school of Abing-
don, in any of the colleges of Oxford. Abbot, Arch-
bishop of Canterbury, one of the trustees, with the
approval of his coadjutors, determined to place
the foundation in Balliol College. Richard Wight-
wick, B.D. rector of East Jlsley, in Berkshire, how-
ever, engaged to make over some estates in aid of
Tesdale's benefaction ; and it was then resolved to
found a new college. A petition was presented to
the king (James I.) by the corporation of Abingdon ;
and his majesty, in 1624, granted the applicants
permission to endow a perpetual college, which
should consist of one master, or governor, ten fel-
lows, and ten scholars, (more or less, according to
the statutes to be afterwards devised ;) within the
faall denominated Broadgates. He likewise directed
that the new institution should bear the name of
Pembroke, (in compliment of William Herbert, Earl
of Pembroke, who was chancellor of the University
from 1616 to 1630), and should be considered as
"the foundation of King James, at the cost and
charges of Thomas Tesdale and Richard Wight-
wick." — The master and scholars took possession
immediately. The statutes, presented four years
afterwards, directed that the number of Tesdale's
fellows should be seven, four to be of his kindred,
and the whole to study divinity. Of these, two were
to be chosen from his poorer kindred educated in
Abingdon school, if such could occur, or, if not, from
the more needy of his relatives in other situations.
Wightwick's foundation consisted of J OO/. per annum,
for the maintenance of three fellows and four scho-
lars, two of each to be chosen from his kindred, and
the remainder to be elected from Abingdon school.
The right of the election was vested in the master
of the college, two of Tesdale's senior fellows, the
master of Christ's Hospital, Abingdon, two of the
senior governors, and the master of the school. —
Among later contributors, were Sir John Bennett,
K.B. afterwards Lord Ossulston, grandson to Tes-
dale ; George Townsend, of Rowell, in Gloucester-
shire, Esq. ; Morley, Bishop of Winchester ; Lady
Chief Justice Holt ; Dr. Joseph Warton, &c. were educated
here.
* Sir Thomas Browne, author of the Religio Medici ; Carcw,
Earl of Totne»s, historian of the Irish wars ; Sir James Dyer,
Chief Justice of the Kind's Bench; Philip Murant, the nfsto-
rian of Essex ; Shenstoiie; Graves, author of the "Spiritual
Quixotte ;" Dr Johnson ; and Moore, Archbishop of Canter-
bury, were of this college.
Elizabeth Holford, and Sir John Philips, Bart,
King Charles the First gave the patronage of St.
Aldate's Church, Oxford, and founded a fellowship
for the natives of Guernsey and Jersey ; and Queen
Anne annexed a prebend of Gloucester to the mas-
tership.— The college chiefly consists of twe small
courts, with the appendages of chapel and ball.
The chief parts of the present edifice were erected,
at various periods of the seventeenth century. The
front (completed in 1694) is an unornamented ele-
vation, with a low tower over the entrance. Adjoin-
ing the college on the. north are the master's lodg-
ings, a handsome modern building. — The chapel is
a small but tasteful structure, of the Ionic order,
finished in 1732, by the assistance of Bartholomew
Tipping, Esq. of Oxford. The altar-piece is a fine
copy, by Cranke, of Our Saviour after his Resur-
rection, as painted by Rubens. — The original refec-
tory of Broadgates, forming the hall of the present
college, is ornamented with a bust of Dr. Johnson,
by Bacon, presented by the father of the late Samuel
Whitbread, Esq. and some good portraits, — The
library is over the hall.* — The present members of
the society are a master, fourteen fellows, and thirty
scholars and exhibitioners.
XV. Queen's College was founded by Robert
Eglefield, confessor to Queen Philippa, consort of
Edward the Third. f A veneration for the district
in which his youthful days were passed induced him
to obtain a charter in 1340, for a collegiate hall.
The institution is there termed Aula Scholar! um
Reginae de Oxon. Philippa shortly became the
professed protectress of the society, and the hono-
rary patronage has ever since been vested in the
queens of England. — The members specified in the
charter were a provost and twelve fellows, or scho-
lars ; the provost to be in holy orders, and to be
elected from the fellows ; the whole to be, in the first
instance, natives of Cumberland and Westmorland ;
but afterwards to be partly chosen from other coun-
ties in whicli the college might possess property.
A preference was regularly to be given to Eglesfeld's
own kindred ; but only four claimants, on the plea of
consanguinity, have appeared throughout the many
succeeding ages. 1 n the number of scholars specified
by the charter it is believed that the founder alluded
to the twelve apostles, and he intended to add seventy
poor scholars, in attention to the seventy disciples of
Christ. — According to the statutes, the members
were to be summoned to meals by the sound of a horn,
or trumpet ; then the fellows, clad in robes of scar-
let, were to take place on one side of the board,
and to propose philosophical arguments to the poor
f Eglesfekl, descended from a family of some consequence
in Cumberland, is supposed to have been horn at Eglesfeld, in
the parish of Ikigham. He enjoyed lor many years the fami-
liar confidence of the crown; and all his opportunities were
employed in defence of the relir.ious establishment, and in
promoting the dissemination of letters. He died iu 1349, and
is supposed to have been buried in the original chapci of this
college.
scholars,
OXFORDSHIRE.
<J7
scholars, who were ordered to kneel on the side
opposite. The scarlet robes of the fellows, &c. have
long disappeared, but a trumpet still summons the
students to the table of refreshment. The queens
who have honoured the college with their benefactions
are, besides Philippa, Henrietta Maria, consort of
Charles the First, at whose request that king gave
three rectories, and as many vicarages ; Queen Ca-
roline, who, in 1733, contributed 1000/. to assist in
the completion of the buildings ; and her present
majesty, Queen Charlotte, who presented a sum of
1000/. in aid of the repairs rendered necessary by
a fire in the year 1778. — In 1739, John Michel, Esq.
of Richmond, in Surrey, bequeathed manors and
lands to the estimated value of 700/. per annum,
chiefly for the maintenance of eight master fellows,
four bachelors, and four exhibitioners ; and for the
erection of suitable buildings for the accommodation
of the masters and bachelors. The college consists
of two courts, forming an oblong of 800 feet in
length, by 230 in breadth. The grand front, on the
south, constitutes one of the chief ornaments of the
High-street. In the centre is the richly embellished
gate of entrance, over which, beneath a cupola sup-
ported by pillars, is a statue of Queen Caroline.
The exterior of the quadrangle-cloister, in which
are many niches, extends on each side. The ex-
tremities of the east and west ranges of chambers,
ornamented with a pediment, and surmounted by
three statues, abut on the high-street, and com-
plete the display of the front. The interior of the
court, 140 feet long, by 130 broad, is among the
finest collegiate examples of modern elegance. A
lofty cloister runs the whole length of three of the
sides. Above this cloister, on the west, are two
stories, consisting of the common room, a spacious
gallery communicating with the hall, and apart-
ments for the fellovvs. The eastern side is occu-
pied by chambers far the society. On the north is
a fine elevation, which divides the two courts, and
consists of the chapel and the hall. In the centre
are four columns of the Doric order, supporting a
pediment, the tympaoum of whicli is adorned with
emblematical sculpture. Pilasters are placed be-
tween the lateral windows, and a balustrade ranges
along the whole of the top. The first stone of this
quadrangle was laid on the anniversary of Queen
Anne's birth, February 6, 1710 ; but the whole was
not completed till 1759 ; and, in the year 1778, the
interior of the west side was totally consumed by
* Cardinal Beaufort ; Dr. Gibson, Bishop of London, the
editor of Camden ; Dr. Tanner, Bishop of St. Asaph, the
writer of the Notitia; Burton, the commentator on Antoninus ;
Sir John Floyer, a physician ; Halley, the Savilian professor ;
Wycherly, ihe dramatist ; Ecuvard Uowe Mores, the antiquary ;
and Dr. Burn, author of Duties and Office of a Justice of the
Peace, were of this college. — King Henry V. is also supposed to
have been placed hi're, under the care ot Cardinal Beaufort.
f He wa's born in 1492, of a trading family, at Reading in
Berkshire. When twelve years of age, he was apprenticed for
ten years to a merchant in London. His conduct was so ex-
emplary that his master bequeathed him one hundred pounds,
fire. The architect of this court was Hawksmoor,
though the design is said to have originated either
! with Sir Christopher Wren or Dr. Lancaster. The
| whole bears a resemblance to the Luxembourg!!
| Palace in Paris. — The inner, or north court, is in
dimensions 130 feet by 90. On the west is the
library, the front of which is abundantly ornament-
ed. The other three sides are occupied by cham-
bers for the society. — The interior of the chapel is
enriched with ornaments of the Corinthian order.
j The ceiling is painted by Sir James Thornhill to
I represent the Ascension, and the windows are chiefly
filled with painted glass, from the old chapel. The
window over the altar contains the Holy Family,
executed by Price, ia 1717, under which is a copy,
i by Cranke, of Corregio's celebrated Night Piece,
; in the Dresden Gallery. — The hall is a fine room,
sixty feet by thirty, lighted by lofty windows, with
an opening, for an orchestra, communicating with
the gallery over the west cloister. The roof is
beautifully arched, and the upper parts of the win-
j dows are adorned with numerous portraits on glass.
Here is also a numerous collection of portraits, both
ancient and modern. — The library, built towards the
end of the 17th century, is one of the largest rooms
of its kind in the University, being 123 feet in
length. The ceiling is stuccoed, and the book cases
j are finely carved. Here are the collections of Bishop
Barlow, Sir John Floyer, Mr. Michel, and many
curious manuscripts (chiefly heraldic) bequeathed
by Sir Joseph Williamson ; also, an excellent orrery,
presented, in 1763, by six gentlemen commoners,
•• several good portraits, busts, &c.* — The present
members of the society are a provost, sixteen fel-
lows, eight taberdars, (so termed from ;\ short gown,
called taberdum, which formed part of (heir original
dress,) sixteen scholars, two chaplains, two clerks,
and forty exhibitioners, besides those on Mr. Michel's
foundation. The number of students is very great.
XVI. St. John's College was founded by Sir
Thomas White. t The spot chosen for his founda-
tion was the site of St. Bernard's College, a house
founded for scholars of the Cistercian order by
Archbishop Chichele, but which had been granted
by Henry the Eighth at the Dissolution, to the
establishment of Christ Church. The premises en-
joyed by the Cistertians consisted only of two acres ;
but an additional four acres, nearly completing the
bounds of the present college, were purchased by
the founder. By the statutes given shortly after the
with which, and a small property inherited from his father, he
commenced business. He served the office of Lord Mayor,
in 1553, and was knighted by Queen Mary for his opposition
to Sir Thomas Wyatt. He gave large sums in trust to the
Corporations of Coventry, Bristol, and Leicester, for the relief
of the aged, and the encouragement of young tradesmen ; and,
in 1555, he obtained permission from Philip an'i Mary tofourid
a college, to ihe " praise and honour of God, the Viryin Mary,
and St. John the Baptist," for the studies of Divinity, Philoso-
phy, and the Arts. He at first intended to place his institution
at Heading. He died at Oxford in 1 566, and was buried in the
chapel of his own foundation.
foundation,
98
OXFORDSHIRE.
foundation, tlie society was made to consist of a
president, fifty fellows and scholars, three chaplains,
three clerks and six choristers. The expense of
maintenance was, however, found so groat, that the
chaplains, clerks, and choristers, were discontinued.
The statutes nearly resemble in form those of New
College. — Sir Robert Ducie ; Archbishop Laud;
Juxon, Archbishop of Canterbury ; Sir William
Paddy, president of the college of physicians, by
whom the present choir was founded ; Dr. Rawlin-
son, and Dr. Holmes, president of St. John's, from
•whose generosity, with that of his lady, the society
received the sum of 15,000/. are amongst the bene-
factors of this college. — The buildings appertaining
to the institution of Archbishop Chicliele formed the
first residence of Sir Thomas White's society ; but
extensive improvements were speedily effected, and
it now possesses all the accustomed collegiate eleva-
tions.— The college is near the northern entrance to
the city, and has, in front, a wide terrace and a row
of lofty elms. Over the chief entrance is a square
tower, with a canopied niche on each side of a bay
•window. In the upper division is a statue of St.
Bernard. An embattled parapet is at the top. — The
first quadrangle contains the hall and chapel, the
president's lodgings, and chambers for the fellows
and scholars. The character of the whole is Gothic,
•with an embattled parapet along the top. — The
second quadrangle is the most superb part of the
structure. This court (excepting the south side, in
which is the library,) was erected at the expense of
Archbishop Laud, from a design by Inigo Jones.
The apartments on the east and west arc built over
cloisters, supported by eight pillars, and ornamented
with busts of the Cardinal and Christian virtues.
The general character of the buildings, is Gothic;
but, in the centre of the east and west divisions, is
a splendid gateway, composed of the three Greek
orders. On a line with the cloisters arc double
columns of the Doric. After various embellish-
ments, double Ionic columns take place, and sup-
port a semicircular pediment. On the face of one
gateway is a brass statue of Charles the First, and
on the other, one of his queens ; both are placed
between columns of the Corinthian order. — The
range of structure which looks towards the gardens,
and which forms a second front of the eastern divi-
sion of this quadrangle, is the most interesting. It
consists offive bay windows of delicate workmanship,
supported by brackets of sculptured stone. At each
termination is a pediment of airy proportions, and a
battlement ranges along the intermediate space. The
* Archbishop Laud ; Juxon, Archbishop of Canterbury ;
Gregory Martin, the principal translator of the Rhemish Testa-
ment ; Shirley, the dramatist ; Sir Bulstrode Whitelocke ;
Ambrose Bonwicke, one of the most erudite masters ol Mer-
chant Taylors' School ; Dr. Ducarel, an eminent antiquary ;
Dr. John Monro, the physician ; Whalley, the commentator
*»n Ben Johnson ; Dean Tucker, &c. were educated here.
t Sir Thomas was born at Dedinglon, in Oxfordshire, of
gardens, at the base of this fine elevation, are very
extensive, and the manner in which they are disposed
is an honour to the period in which the arrangement
took place. — The hall, on the north side of the first
quadrangle, is the original refectory of the institu-
tion- dedicated to St. Bernard. It has undergone
many necessary and important alterations, and is
now a fine and well-proportioned room. The screen,
of Portland stone, is eminently handsome. The
walls are adorned by several portraits. — The library,
which runs through the upper story of the east and
south sides of the second quadrangle, was construct-
j ed at two distinct periods. The part on the south
! was completed towards the end of the 16th century
by benefactions from the company of Merchant Tay-
lors, &c. ; and the eastern division was formed by
Archbishop Laud. The book-cases are highly em-
bellished, and skilfully contrived to answer the pur-
pose of a gallery. The books are numerous, and
of the most valuable description. Here are, a fine
miniature of Charles the First ; some paintings on
copper of the apostles, by Carlo Dolci ; a curious
figure of St. John, stained in scagliola, by Lambert
Gorius ; and a brass eagle, executed with skill and
spirit, by Snetzler of Oxford. In this room Laud
had the honour to entertain Charles I. his queen,
the Prince Elector, and many of the courtiers, in
1636. — The chief parts of the chapel are the same
which appertained to the original institution ; but
considerable improvements have been effected ; and
the Corinthian order now prevails throughout. Over
the communion-table is a fine piece of tapestry, after
Titian, representing Our Saviour, with the Disci-
ples, at Emmaus. The figures are said to be por-
traits of the Pope, the kings of France and Spain,
and Titian. Here is a very good organ. — A smaller
chapel, on the north side of the ancient building, was
erected in 1662. Within the walls are deposited the
remains of the founder, of Archbishop Laud, (first
interred at All-hallows, Barking, near the Tower of
London) and of Archbishop Juxon, with those of
many other eminent persons. On the north wall is
a marble urn, which contains the heart of Dr. Raw-
linson. — In the common room, a handsome building
on the north of the hall, is a painting of St. John
the Baptist, by Titian.* — The livings possessed by
this college are numerous. The present members
are a president, fifty fellows, two chaplains, and a
choir. Thirty-seven of the fellows are chosen from
Merchant Taylors' school.
XVII. Trinity College was founded, in 1554, by
Sir Thomas Pope,f whose generosity was limited
only
parents in the middle walk ot life. He received the rudiments
of education at the school of Banbury, and then removed to
Eton College. He entered as a Student of Law ; but, at the
age of twenty-seven, was so fortunate as to attract the notice of
King Henry the Eighth, after which period he filled various
offices in the service of the state. He was, however, unalter-
ably attached to the ancient religion, and remained in retire-
ment during the reign of Edward the Sixth ; but was made
cofferet
OXFORDSHIRE.
only by his resources. His endowment consisted of
thirty-five manors, and thirteen advowsons, besides
various impropriations and pensions ! The society
was formed of a president, a priest, twelve fellows
(four of whom should be priests) and twelve scho-
lars, to be elected from the different places in which :
the college possessed property. — When Sir Thomas
Pope arranged the settlement of his college, he pur- i
chased ancient tenements, which were commodious (
and extensive. The buildings obtained on this occa- !
sion were Durham College, erected in the 14th cen- j
tury, by Thomas Hatfield, Bishop of Durham, on i
the foundation of Richard de Hoton, Prior of Dur- i
ham, in 1289. These consisted of one quadrangle,
a hall, library, and chapel. Important improvements
took place in the 17th and 18th centuries ; but the !
edifice is still destitute of that progressive harmony
of parts which leads to a grandeur of architectural
display. A large avenue, divided from the street
by an iron palisade, with handsome folding gates,
conducts to the first court. The front consists of
the chapel, with the tower of entrance ; and is a
pleasing specimen of classic elegance. The first
court contains the chapel, the hall, the president's
lodgings, the library, and some apartments for the |
society. The inner court consists of three sides, |
with the college gardens in front. The whole of
these buildings, occupied by chambers for the scho-
lars, were built according to the plan of Sir Chris-
topher Wren. The north side of this court (finished
in 1667) was the first effort of the modern architec-
ture in the University. All had hitherto been Gothic*
or a mixture of the Gothic with the Grecian orders.
The first idea of an additional court is said to have
originated with Dr. Bathurst, the president. — The
gardens in front of this court are extensive. A spa-
cious walk, terminated by a handsome iron gate,
runs through a centre. — The first stone of the pre-
sent chapel was laid by Dr. Bathurst, in 1691, and
the building was completed in 1694. He contributed
nearly 2000/. and procured numerous subscriptions.
The chapel is supposed to have been built after a
design by Dean Aldrich, corrected by Sir Christo-
pher Wren. The screen is of cedar, and the altar-
piece, of the same wood, is enriched with some
exquisite carving by Gibbons. The altar is also
decorated by a copy, in needle-work, of West's
Painting of the Resurrection, executed, and pre-
sented to the college, by Miss Althea Fanshawe, late
of Shiplake Hill, Oxfordshire. The ceiling is richly
stuccoed, and ornamented with a painting of the
cofferer to the household, and received into distinguished favour
on the accession of Mary. The Princess Elizabeth was con-
signed to his care when the jealousy of the court rendered her
removal necessary. He received his illustrious charge at
Hatfield House, in Hertfordshire, and honourably laboured
to render her situation as pleasant as circumstances would
-dinit. — The inflexibility of his religious opinions debarred him
from employment when Elizabeth gained power. He died in
1559, and was interred in the church of St. Stephen's, Wai-
brook, with his second wife ; but his body was afterwards re-
moved to Oxford. He was thrice married, and left a widow,
vot. iv. — HO. 148.
Ascension, by Peter Berchet, a French artist. In
a recess at the upper end of the chapel, on the north,
is the monument of Sir Thomas Pope, the founder,
with his whole length figure, and that of his third
lady, in alabaster. — The hall, built in the early part
of the 17th century, is a plain but spacious and well-
proportioned room, ornamented with portraits. — An
apartment used by the monks of Durham, as a re-
ceptacle for their few books, was improved by Sir
Thomas Pope, and still forms the college library.
Each window contains interesting fragments of an-
cient painted glass. The room is also adorned with it
portrait of the founder, &c.* — The society consists
of a president, twelve fellows, and twelve scholars
The scholars are superannuated after nine years.
XVIII. University College appears to have origi-
nated with William of Durham (probably so entitled
from the place of his birth) Rector of Wearmouth.
He died, on his return from Rome, at Rouen in
Normandy, in 1249, leaving a will, in which he be-
queathed to the University of Oxford 310 marks, to
purchase rents for the maintenance of so many
masters, or students of the highest academical
honour, as the income might admit, the whole to be
natives of Durham and its vicinity. At that time
no precedent existed for the foundation of a separate
.college, and the heads of the University lent to-
scholars the money accruing from the bequest. They
shortly, however, purchased various houses in Ox-
ford, and chiefly distributed the rents among the-
poorer masters of arts. In 1280, the managers of
the property appointed four masters for the regula-
tion of a separate society, to be maintained from
the finances, under specified conditions. This Uni-
versity College claims the second place in rank of
foundation. It is supposed that the society first re-
sided in the ancient building, termed University
Hall, which now forms a part of the site of Brazen-
nose College ; but there seems reason to believe
that they occupied a tenement on the site of their
present edifice in the High Street, as early as 1343.
The tenement was called Durham Hall, from Andrew
of Durham, an alderman of Oxford. It afterwards
obtained other appellations ; and, on the removal
of the Society, they termed themselves (in allusion
to their former spot of occupancy) " the masters and
scholars of the Hall of the University of Oxford.'*
Their new place of residence they styled " Great
University Hall." They shortly enlarged the site by
several purchases ; and, in 1403, Walter Skirlaw,
i Bishop of Durham, gave the manor of Rothyng
whose attention to the interest of this college was so liberal,
that she was, at the time, generally honoured with the name of
foundress.
* The following are some of the distinguished persons con-
nected with this college: — Archbishop Sheldon ; Chilling-
worth ; Sir John Denham, the poet ; Harrington, author of
the Oceana ; Charles Montague, Earl of Halifax; Dr. Ba-
thurst, who was president for forty years ; the second Earl of
Guildford (Lord North); Henry Birkenhead, founder of the
Poetry Lecture in the University ; Thomas Warton, ace.
2 c Margaret,
too
OXFORDSHIRE.
Margaret, or Mark's Hall, in Essex, for the main-
tenance of three fellows, natives of York or Dur-
ham, and also, presented some manuscripts to the
library. Henry, Earl of Northumberland, about
1442, bestowed some land, and the advowson of a
rectory, for the support of three bachelors, or mas-
ters of arts, of the dioceses of Durham, Carlisle,
and York. Joan Davys, wife of a citizen of Ox-
ford, gave, in 1506, certain estates for the mainte-
nance oi two logic lectures, or one on logic and
another on philosophy ; and for an augmentation of
the allowance to the masters and fellows. Francis
Russel, second Earl of Bedford, left by will, in 1584,
twenty pounds per annum for two poor students in
divinity, to be called the Earl of Bedford's scholars ;
and Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, three years
afterwards, bequeathed lands for the maintenance
pf two scholars, at the rate of twenty pounds per
annum each. John Freyston, of Altofts in \ ork-
shire, Esq. besides a benefaction in money, gave, in
1592, an estate in Pontefract, for a fellow and two
scholars, to be natives of the county of York. In
1618, the Rev. Robert Gunsley bequeathed the rec-
tory of Flamsted, in Hertfordshire, for the main-
tenance of two scholars, to be chosen by the master
;iinl fellows from the grammar schools of Rochester
and Maidstone ; each scholar to be a native of Kent,
unless he could claim kindred with the testator. Sir
Simon Bennet, Bart, in 1631, left the reversion of
Hadley Lodge and Park, in Northamptonshire,
chiefly for the institution of eight fellowships, and
eight scholarships ; but the estate has only proved
sufficient to the maintenance of four of each class.
Dr. RadelifFe, besides rendering munificent assist-
ance to the buildings, instituted two travelling fel-
lowships for students in medicine. Each fellow re-
ceives 300/. per annum, for ten years, the first five
of which he is required to spend abroad.
The college, situated on the south side of the High
Street, consists principally of two courts. The front
is more than 260 feet in length. There are two gate-
ways, at equal distances from the extremities of the
range, each of which is surmounted by a tower.
These gateways lead immediately to the courts. On
the outer side of that which conducts to the western
square is a statue of Queen Anne, and on the inner
side one of. James II. The tower over the gateway
on th<; east is ornamented towards the street with a
statue of Queen Mary, anil on the interior with ano-
ther of Dr. Rado'iffc. — The western quadrangle is a
regular anil handsome Gothic structure, 100 feet
square. This part of the building was formed in
the seventeenth century, under the direction of the
Rev. Cliaries Greenwood. The chapel and hall are
placed on the south side. The original centre of
* Richard Fleming, Bi*hop of Lincoln, founder of Lincoln
College; Potter, Archbishop of Canterbury; Lord Herbert,
of Cherburv ; William Smith, a judicious' writer respecting
the foundation of this college; too Rev. jo . ph Bingham,
author of the Origines Ecclesiastics < Dr. lUlcliffe ; Carte,
the fugade being heavy and devoid of character,
Dr. Griffith, the master, has designed, and superin-
tended the execution of, a bay window, finely Gothic,
with a -lightly-in dented canopy on each side; His
own chisel has, also, ornamented the moulding of
the quadrangle with the heads of various benefac-
tors, ike. — The eastern court has only three sides,
each of which is about eighty feet in length, and
opens on the south to the master's garden. The
ranges on the north and east were built at the ex-
pense of Dr. Radclifle. The members of this college
long attended religious service at St. Mary's, or St.
Peter's in the East. An oratory, or chapel, con-
structed for their use, at the latter part of the four-
teenth century, was supplanted by a more important
building ; but, in 1639, the second edifice was pull-
ed down, and the foundation of the present chapel
laid. It was not completed till 1665, when it was
consecrated on the day of St. Cuthbert (the patron-
saint of the original pile,) by Dr. Blandford, Bishop
of Oxford. The windows are filled with painted
glass. That on the east, executed by Giles, of York,
was presented by Dr. Radclifle. The other windows
are by Abraham Van Linge. The screen, of the
Corinthian order, is embellished by carving attri-
buted to Gibbons. The altar-piece is a Salvator
Mundi, after Carlo Dolce, burned in wood (beech)
by Dr. Griffith. The ceiling is of groined Gothic.
The ante-chapel contains an interesting monument
of Sir William Jones, presented by his widow, and
executed by Fiaxman. — The present library was
completed in 1669. The books are numerous and
valuable. The hall is a spacious and handsome
room, begun in 1640. Until 1766, this apartment
was warmed, in the ancient mode, by a stove in the
centre. The present chimney-piece is an elegant
Gothic combination, presented by Sir Roger New-
digate. At the lower end of the room is a screen of
wood, tastefully arranged in the same style with the
chimney-piece. The south window has some painted
glass, by Giles ; and the roof is ornamented with
various armorial bearings. Here are several por-
traits.— In the common room is a fine bust of Alfred,
by Wilton, from Rysbrach's model ; with portraits
of Henry IV. and Robert Dudley, Earl of Leices-
ter, burned in wood by Dr. Griffith. This room
was a favourite resort with Dr. Johnson, of whom
a fiiie print serves as a memorial. An engraved
likeness of Sir William Jones is placed as a compa-
nion. In the ante-room is a good bust of Mr. Pitt,
presented by the younger students.* — The society
consists of a master, twelve fellows, and seventeen
scholars. The king is visitor.
XIX. Worcester College is situated on a slight
eminence, ritur the bank of the Isis, at the western
Hie historian ; Jago, the elegiac poet ; Sir Robert Chambers
Micoml Justi.e of the Supreme Court of Judicature in Bengal-
ami Sir Will.ani Jones, are amongst the great names connected
with this college.
extre-
OXFORDSHIRE.
101
extremity of the city. Here formerly stood Glou-
cester Hall, in which the Benedictine monks of Glou-
cester studied Philosophy and Theology. This
seminary, governed by a prior, was found so eligible,
that it received students from many important abbeys
in England. The scholars were allowed to take
degrees as in the other learned establishments of the
University. At the Dissolution the premises were
bestowed on certain individuals, but, when Oxford
was created a see, they were chosen for the residence
of the bishop. They were soon, however, resumed
by the crown, and granted by Elizabeth to Wil-
liam Doddington, of whom they were purchased by
Sir Thomas White, who had recently founded the
college of St. -John ; he constituted his new purchase
un appendage to the foundation, under the name of
St. John Baptist's Hall. He speedily settled a
principal, who was to be a fellow of St. John's, and
a hundred scholars, the chief of whom he maintained
at his sole expense. The buildings were in a decayed
state, and the chapel and library had fallen a com-
plete sacrifice to King Henry's agents ; but a due
succession of principals continued till the beginning
of the eighteenth century. The number of scholars,
however, gradually diminished; and, in 1678, the
hall was inhabited only by the principal, and a few
obscure families who were allowed to occupy the
rooms gratuitously. — In 1701, however, Sir Thomas
Cookes, of Benlley Pauncefort in the parish of
Tardebigg, Worcestershire, Bart, bequeathed the
sum of 10,000/. for the erecting of a collegiate
building in Oxford, and for the maintenance of as
many fellows and scholars as the residue of the sum
bequeathed would admit ; or, otherwise, for the en-
dowing of fellowships, and scholars' places, to be
added to a collegiate establishment already existing.
A preference in the choice of students to be given
to persons educated in the testator's schools of
Bromsgrove and Feokenham, and such of them
principally as should be of his kindred ; or, for want
of proper boys in those schools, such as are educated
in the free-schools of Worcester, Hartlebury, and
Kidderminster, and other free -schools in the county
of Worcester. The sura thus bequeathed accumu-
lated to the amount of 15,000/.— Gloucester Hall
was at length purchased of St. John's College ; and
letters patent were obtained, in 1714, for erecting
it into a college, by the name of " the Provost,
Fellows, and Scholars of Worcester College, in the
city of Oxford." — In 1717, Mrs. Margaret Alcorne,
of Oxford, bequeathed one half of her estates, real
and personal ; but it was proved that she had only a
life-interest in the former, and the college, therefore,
only obtained 798/. the moiety of her personal pro-
perty, which was directed, by a decree of Chancery,
to be expended on the new buildings. Lady Eliza-
beth Ilolford founded two exhihitioiis of; twenty
pounds each, for charter-house scholars. Dr. James
Fynney, a fellow of St. John's, left 2500/. for two
fellowships and two scholarships. George Clarke,
D. C. L. bequeathed estates for the foundation of
six fellowships and three scholarships ; and, in 1730,
Mrs. Sarah Eaton, daughter of Dr. Eaton, formerly
principal of Gloucester Hall, endowed six fellow-
ships and five scholarships, for the sons of clergy-
men only. — The buildings consist of a chapel, a hall,
a library, and an elegant range of apartments oil
the north for the use of members of the society. The
architecture of the whole is of a noble and chaste
character. In front is the library, a fine structure
of the Ionic order, 100 feet in length, with the chapel
projecting on one side, and the haM on the other.
A spacious cloister supports the library in the front
towards the court. The buildings on the north con-
tain three stories of commodious rooms for students*
with lodgings for the provost. On the opposite side
is a low irregular range, which formed a part of the
ancient buildings tenanted by the Benedictine Monks,
These low tenements are to be removed, and a pile*
raised of a character corresponding with the division
on the north ; the court to open on the west to the
college gardens. — The chapel, a structure of fine
proportions, is entirely unornamentcd, except the
roof, which is stuccoed. The hall is sixty feet in
length by thirty feet in width, with two Corinthian
columns at the western end. — The library is the most
interesting part of the buildings. A gallery runs in
the whole extent of this spacious room, and along
both ends. Here is a valuable collection, rich in
architectural works, made by Dr. Clarke, who left
a sum for the benefit of a librarian and under-libra-
rian, and also fifty pounds yearly for the augmen-
tation of the books. Here are the portraits of Sir
Thomas Cookes, the founder* and of Dr. Clarke.
— Gloucester Hall had the honour of affording edu-
cation to three bishops ; Richard Lovelace, the poet,
and Sir Ketielm Digby, also studied here ; and the
learned Diggory Wheare was principal from 1626
to 1647. — The present foundation consists of a pro-
vost, twenty-one fellows, sixteen scholars, and three
exhibitioners.
XX. Wadham College occupies the site of the
priory of Austin Friars, a scholastic house of so much
celebrity, that the University acts were kept, and the
exercises in arts performed there, before the divinity
school was built. Shortly after the Dissolution these
premises were demolished ; and thu site became at
length the property of the mayor, bailiffs, and com-
monalty of Oxford, when it was purchased for the
use of the present foundation. — The founder of Wad-
ham college was Nicholas Wadham, Esq. of Edge
and Merrifield, in Somersetshire.* He died, how-
ever, before his plan could be carried into effect ;
but his lady survived him nine years, and, with the
aid of trustees, was enabled to accomplish his lau-
dable wish. The licence for foundation was granted
* This gentleman was horn in the cou.nty in which he^
resided, and sludied at Oxford. He inherited a liberal estate,
augmented its annual profits, and accumulated nearly I4.000/.
in money. He (named Dorothy, the daughter of Sir VV . Petrt.
in
102
OXFORDSHIRE.
in 1611. By the statutes the society is declared to
consist of a warden, fifteen fellows, fifteen scholars,
two chaplains, and two clerks. The first election
was made by the foundress, with the exception of
one fellow and two scholars, who were nominated by
the Corporation of Oxford, according to previous
arrangement. — John Goodridge, M.A. fellow, gave,
in 1654, an estate and money for the use of four
exhibitioners, three scholars, the moderator in divi-
nity, &c. Humphrey Hody, Archdeacon of Oxford,
endowed ten exhibitions, four students of Hebrew,
and six for students of Greek. Richard Warner,
Esq. founded a botanical exhibition in 1775. Dr.
John Wills, warden of the college,- who died in
1806, made the following bequests: — 400/. per
annum, in addition to the warden's salary ; 1000/.
to improve the warden's lodgings ; two exhibitions
of 100/. each to two fellows, students or practi-
tioners in law or medicine ; and two exhibitions of
20/. each to two scholars pursuing the same studies ;
20/. per annum for a divinity lecturer in the college,
to read lectures en the thirty-nine articles ; an annual
exhibition of 75/. for a superannuated fellow, not
possessing property to, the amount of 75/. yearly ;
to one other superannuated fellow, (not having pro-
perty to the amount of 100/.) 50/. per annum ; ll/.
10?. to a preacher, for four sermons annually in the
college chapel ; books, to the value of five or six
pounds yearly, to the best reader of lessons in the
chapel. Dr. Wills left also considerable sums for
purposes connected with the University at large,
and directed the residue of his fortune, after some
legacies to very distant relations, to be employed as
a fund for the purchase of livings for this society.
The buildings are comprised in one quadrangle,
nearly 130 feet square. The whole of the edifice,
except a building of three stories on the south of the !
front, erected in 1694, was completed by tho foun- |
dress, at the expense of 10,816/. 75. Sil. " The front, j
which is opposite to Trinity Gardens, has a central
tower over the entrance, and a bay projection at
each end, surmounted by a pediment. Three sides
of the court are occupied by the warden's lodgings,
and apartments for the society. On the east are the
hall and chapel. In the centre of the latter division
is a portico, ornamented with four ranges of columns
and pilasters In niches of the lower compartment
are statues of Nicholas and Dorothy Wadham, the
former in armour, with a model of the building in
his hand. In an embellished niche, above the foun-
der and foundress, is a statue of James the First.
The chapel and library, extending eastward, form j
two ornamental sides to an inner division, or garden
court. The gardens are extensive, and disposed
with much taste.— The chapel is a handsome Gothic
structure, seventy feet in length by thirty in width,
with an ante-chapel of larger dimensions at right
* The following are some of the most conspicuous members
of the society in other classes : Sir C. Sedley ; Admiral Blake ;
Creech, the translator of Lucietius; Dr.Trapp; DC. Kenni-
angles with the choir. The east window, of the finest
Gothic, is filled with painted glass, by Bernard Van
Linge, in 1623. Immediately beneath is a singular
performance, by Isaac Fuller, who took cloth of an
ash-colour for his medium, and worked the lines and
shades of his intended picture with a brown crayon,
and the lights with a white one. These dry colours
were then pressed with hot irons, and the warmth
produced an exudation from the cloth which caused
the colours to imprint a dye, proof against all danger
of removal by the rudest touch. This piece contains
representations of the Lord's Supper, and the chil-
dren of Israel gathering manna, with figures of
Abraham and Melchisedec. The colours are much
faded. The chapel is paved with black and white
marble. In the ante-chapel are the monuments of
many eminent members of the society. — The library
is a commodious room, with a fine Gothic window at
the upper end, in which are inserted two small por-
traits of the founder and his lady. Among the books
are those which formerly belonged to Dr. Bisse,
Archdeacon of Taunton ; many valuable works ia
Spanish, procured by Sir William Gndolphin in an
embassy to Spain ; and the collection of Mr. Richard
Warner, wliose admiration of Suakspeare induced
him to procure every edition of his works, and every
treatise connected with them. There. are, also, many
specimens of early printing in this library. — The
hall, one of the largest in the University, is orna-
mented at the upper end with a window conspicu-
ously beautiful, in which are inserted two small por-
traits of Clurrles I. and his queen. The size of this
room is 70 feet by 35. The sides are adorned with
the following portraits : the Founder and Foun-
dress ; Sir John Strangeways ; John Goodridge ;
John Lord Lovelace ; Chief Justice Pratt ; Mrv
Harris of Salisbury ; Arthur Onslow, the Speaker;
George I.; William III.; Dr. Bisse; Dr. Hody
and his lady ; and the wardens, Wright, Bishop of
Bristol ; Smith; Wilkins, Bishop of Chester ; Bland-
ford, Bishop of Worcester ; Ironside, Bishop of
Hereford ; Dunster ; Baker, Bishop of Norwich ;
and Wills.* — The Royal Society originated in this
house. The first meetings were held in a room over
the gateway. — The fellows of this college are to
vacate on completing eighteen years from the expi-
ration of their regency, and they are elected from
the scholars, of whom three are taken from Somer-
setshire, three from Essex, and the remaining nine
from any other part of Britain.
We now proceed to notice the five halls. — In the
early ages the students lodged in the houses of the citi-
zens, or formed themselves into societies, and rented
separate tenements erected for their use by specula-
tive natives. A tenement so rented was termed A
Hall, and it became, in some measure, a spot irre-
coverably dedicated to the purposes of learning ; for
cott, the Hebraist ; and John Richardson, author of the
Persian Dictionary.
the
OXFORDSHIRE.
103
the proprietor could neither sell nor demise the
building, without a legal assurance that it sisould
remain open to the use of the University while re-
quired. If he wished to advance the rent, the pro-
priety of such a demand was investigated by two
masters, on the one part, and two citizens on the
other. These halls were formerly from 200 to 300
in number ; but, after the foundation of colleges,
endowed with fellowships and enriched with livings,
they sank into neglect ; live only now remaining, and
one of these destitute of students. Each hall is
governed by a principal, and by statutes originating
with the chancellor of the University. The prin-
cipals are elected by the members, subject to the
approvance of the chancellor, or vice-chancellor,
with the exception of the principal of St. Edmund's
Hall, who is nominated by Queen's College. Their
income arises from tlte rent of the chambers. The
students possess all academical privileges in com-
mon with the students in colleges, and wear the
name dress. The buildings are, in general, com -
raodious.
I. St. Alban's Hall derives its name from Robert
de Sancto Albano, a citizen of Oxford in the time
of King John. In the reign of Henry the Sixth,
it was united to Nunne Hall ; but the principal was
appointed by Merton College. Henry the Eighth
granted it to Dr. George Owen ; and, by subsequent
conveyances, it was obtained by the wardens and
fellows of Merton College, to whom the site still
belongs*.
II. Edmund Hall, so termed from St. Edmund,
Archbishop of Canterbury, which belonged to Oseney
Abbey at the Dissolution, came into the possession
of the Society of Queen's College in 1557, and was
by them renewed, on condition that they should have
the privilege of nominating the principal. The build-
ings have been enlarged ; and, in 1631, Dr. John
Rawlinson, principal, bequeathed six pounds yearly,
chiefly for the emolument of a catechetical lecturer.
Dr. Thomlinson, vice-principal, left, in 1717, the
sum of 200/.f
III. St. Mary's Hall, given by a burgess of Ox-
ford, in the reign of Henry the Third, to the rectors
of St. Mary's Church, for a house of residence,
passed, with the patronage of that church, to Oriel
College, and was converted into an academical
hall, in 1333. The buildings are in a quadrangular
form. Thomas Dyke, M.D. bestowed property, in
1677, for the assistance of four scholars, natives of
Somersetshire ; and Dr.Nowell, late principal, found-
ed one exhibition. Dr. William King was principal
from 1719 to 1763. He directed his heart to be pre-
* Hooper, the martyred Bishop of Gloucester, and two other
prelates, were educated here ; as were Massinger, the poet, and
Lenthal, Speaker during the Long Parliament.
f Dr. Kennet, Bishop of Peterborough; John Oldham, the
poet; Sir Richard Blackmore ; Edward Chamberlaine, author
of Anglias Notitia, &c. ; Humphrey Wanley ; Thomas Hearne,
the antiquary ; and Dr. John Mill, editor of the Greek Testa-
ment, were educated here.
YOI.. iv. — NO. 148.
served in the chapel, nnd his body to be buried in the
church of Ealing, Middlesex J.
IV. St. Mary Magdalen Hall, close to Magdalen
College, was built in 1480, by William of Waynfleet,
as a grammar-school. The premises were enlarged,
about 1518, by the Society of Magdalen College,
•and students were admitted. The library contains
many valuable books ; and in the refectory is a
portrait of Tyndill, who suffered martyrdom in the
reign of Henry the Eighth. — Many exhibitions have
been bestowed ; and Dr. William Lucy bequeathed
2000/. for the support of four scholars, to be elected
from Hampton Lucy School, in Warwickshire§.
V. New Inn Hall occupies the site of a collect-ion of
tenements formerly inhabited by Bernardine Monks.
The premises, which descended to William of Wyke-
liam, were by him bestowed on the wardens and fellows
of New College; from which they afterwards acquired
the name of New Inn Hall. This house was once
celebrated for the proficiency of it3 students in the
civil and canon law, hut fell into decay, and was
used by Charles the First, as an office for minting
the plate presented to him by the University. After
the Restoration it was renewed as a place of study,
but has again sunk from notice.
It appears that the first public schools in the
University were erected by Thomas Hokenorton,
Abbot of Oseney, in the early part of the fifteenth
century. Previously to that period, each hall had
its separate school. The buildings then constructed
consisted of ten apartments. The divinity school
was completed, with a library in the upper division,
in 1480, chiefly through the assistance of Humphrey,
the ' good' Duke of Gloucester. This school still
remains, a rich specimen of Gothic architecture.
The stone-roof, of exquisite workmanship, was re-
paired by Sir C. Wren. The buildings erected by
Hokenorton were removed in the beginning of the
17th century, when the present edifice was erected.
— The schools, including a part of the Bodleian
library, and the picture gallery, form a fine qua-
drangle. The principal front is 175 feet in length,
with a lofty square tower over the entrance. The
ranges of building on the interior of the quadrangle
are three stories high, having the picture gallery in
the upper division. The top is ornamented by an
embattled parapet, with jagged pinnacles at equal
distances. In these schools the professors read lec-
tures in the several sciences, and the scholars per-
form the exercises requisite for their degrees. There
are three masters of the schools, one of whom is
nominated in convocation by the vice-chancellor, and
one by each of the proctors.
J Sir Christopher Hatton, Sir Thomas More, George Sandys,
the poet, and Needham, the political writer, studied here.
§ Lord Clarendon ; Sir Henry Vane, in whom philosophy
and fanaticism were blended; Sir Julius Csesar, the civilian;
Sir Matthew Hale ; Dr. Sydenham, the physician ; Edward
Phillips, the biographer; and Dr. Plot, author of .the Natural
History of the counties of Oxford and Stafford, belonged to this
hall.
2 D The
101
OXFORDSHIRE.
The Bodleian Library, comprising three extensive !
rooms, disposed in the form of the Roman H, was }
founded by Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, who j
presented many worlds finely written on vellum, &c. ;
The visitors, under Edward the Sixlh, stripped the i
library of these valuable books, and only one^ has ;
been preserved as a specimen of the collection. This j
is a manuscript, in folio, of Valerius Maximus, ele-
gantly decorated. The library remained thus un-
furnished, till Sir Thomas Dudley, in 1597, effected
its restoration*. His first benefaction consisted of
books, to the value of 10,000/. Stimulating others
to contribution, the increase shortly was so consi-
derable, that the original room was no longer suf-
ficiently capacious. He then commenced an aug-
mentation of the building, and his liberality was so
great, and his example productive of so much emula-
tive benefaction, that the University was enabled to
extend the design, and to construct the present
quadrangle, uniting apartments for the schools with
a noble receptacle for the books dedicated to public
use. The library was opened to the public in 1602 ;
and, since that period, the augmentations have been
so considerable, that it probably now contains the
most valuable collection in Europe.
The Picture Gallery occupies the upper range of
three sides of the quadrangle. The ceiling is of oak.
Nearly in the centre of the gallery is a statue in
brass, by Le Sceur, of William Earl of Pembroke,
chancellor of the University. The gallery contains
portraits (many of them imaginary, and all painted
by Sunman,) of all the founders of colleges, and of
numerous other celebrated persons connected with
the University. Here are, also, copies of the Car-
tooits ; and a line copy, supposed by Julio Romano,
from Raphael's celebrated School of Athens, in the
Vatican.
The Logic and Moral Philosophy School contains
a collection of statues, marbles, and busts, presented
by the Countess Dowager Porafret, in 1755; and, in
an apartment on the north side of the schools, are
arranged the Arundelian marblcsf.
The Theatre, one of the first works of Sir C.Wren,
was built at the expense of Archbishop Sheldon,
•who also gave the sum of 2000/. for repairs. The
foundation stone was laid in llibl, and the building
was completed in about, five years. The ground
* Sir Thnmasu'as born in Exeter, ai.d received the rudiments
of education at Geneva, whither his family had retired to avoid
the persecuting tamper 'it M:iry's reun. He returned to Eng-
land in I:')JS, ami end-red of Magdalen College, Oxford ; was
attei wards admitted a fellow of Mertof, in the hull of which
college lie ivad a Greek lecture ; and, at a sulveijuent period,
lie was elected o:!i: of the prort'TS, and public orator of ilie
University. In 1576, he visited the contn<ei)l, and was after
wards employed in various embassies by Elizabeth. In Ii97,
however, he retired from public life. He dn-il in H)I2, and was
interred in the chapel of Merlon College.
•J- This treasure, which may be said to form the mo-l an'henlic
History of Greece, was collected by Thomas IKnvaH, Earl of
Anuidel, and givtn to the Umvt isiiy by Ins grandson, Henry,
I3uke of Nortolk. The noble collect'or, disgusted will) the
plan is that of the theatre of Marcellus at Rome*
The side opposite to the divinity school is a fine
elevation, embellished with Corinthian columns, and
the statues, in niches, of Archbishop Sheldon, and
the Duke of Ormond, chancellor, executed by Sir
Henry Cheere. The interior is calculated to eon-
tain nearly four thousand persons. The roof, eighty
feet by seventy, rests entirely on the side walls. The
ceiling is elaborately painted by Streater. In allu-
sion to the ancient theatres of Greece and Rome^
which were too extensive to admit of a permanent
roofing, the painter has introduced an inters.ect.ed
cord-moulding, apparently supporting a spread of
coloured drapery, which Genii are furling up, to
make way for the descent of the arts and sciences,
to whom Truth approaches. Various other Genii
proclaim the triumph of this festival, and drive
Envy, Rapine, and Brutality, the greatest enemies
i of art and science, from tiie happy assemblage.
Portraits of Archbishop Sheldon, the Duke of Or-
j IIIOIK!, and Sir C. Wren, are also here. — In tho
i theatre are held the acts termed the Encccnia and
Comitin, and Lord Crewe's annual commemora-
tion of benefactors. Before the Clarendon Press
was established, some rooms connected with the
theatre were used for printing ; a circumstance which
accounts for the frequent representation oi'this build-
ing in the title pages of books, printed at Oxford,
towards the close of the seventeenth century.
The Clarendon Printing House was built in 1711,
i with the profits arising from Lord Clarendon's His-
tory of the Rebellion, which work was presented to
] the University by the son of the noble author. It
is a massy edifice, two stories high, and 115 feet
in length. In front is a Doric portico, the columns
i of \vhidi reach to the height of the second story.
On the opposite side is a range of three quarter
columns ; and a Doric entablature ornaments the
whole of the building. On the top are casts in lead
of the Nine Muses ; over the south entrance is placed
a good slatue of Lord Clarendon. Vanbrugh was
the architect employed in this building. Besides
the rooms used for printing, there is a large apart-
ment in which the heads of houses hold meetings.
The four sides of the Radciiffe Library are occu-
pied by St. Mary's Church, a part of All Soul's
College, the schools, and the great front of Brasen
prevailing politics, devoted his time to literature and the arts;
and, anxious to introduce the elegance of the ancients lo bis
native country, he sent Sir William Petty to Asia, in quest of
monuments. By Petty the chief parts ;.f the present collection
were purchased of a Turk, who had taken them from an agent
of the laimnis Peiresk. When the carl retired lollaly, in 1641,
the niomi'iients procured witli so much effort were left at his
London residence, Arundel House in the Strand, anil many of
them were sltclen, and others were cut up by masons, and worked
iiiio houses! When Henry, Duke of Norfolk, pulled down
Ar.undt-l house, he presented I he remainder, about 130 in number,
to the Universit) ol Oxford. The collection ir.ade by Seldon,
and that of Sir Genr«( Wheeler (chiefly formed by himself at
Athens) with ma y curious relics, purchased by the University,
have since been a tided.
Nose
OXFORDSHIRE.
Nose College. Tliis library was founded by the
eccentric physician, Dr. Radcliffe, who bequeathed
40,000/. lor its erection, and left 150/. per annum
for a librarian, and 100/. per annum for the pur-
chase of books. The building, begun in 1737, was
completed in 1749. A cupola, sixty feet high, com-
pletes the elevation. The dome is wrought into
compartments of beautiful stucco; and between the
windows in the cylindric part, from which the light,
is chiefly obtained, are highly-finished tresses of
flowers and fruit. Over the door is a statue of Dr.
HadeiifFe, by Rysbrach. This library ranks among
the most splendid architectural ornaments of the
University; but the superior attractions of the Bod-
leian seem likely to engross the contributions of the
learned*.
The Ashmolean Museum was founded in 1682,
for the reception of rare productions, natural and
artificial, by Elias Ashmole, author of the History
of the Garter. The building was erected by Sir
C. Wren, at the expense of the University, and is
well-adapted to the use for which it was designed.
The curiosities presented by Ashmole consisted
chiefly of the collection originally made by the two
Tradescants, tlio celebrated naturalists and physic
gardeners of South Lambeth ; with coins, medals,
and manuscripts, and the whole of his library.
Large additions have been .made at various periods.
The Astronomical Observatory is an elegant
building, at the extremity of the north suburb. The
site of this erection, and the grounds attached, were
presented by the Duke of Marlborough ; the ex-
pense of the building, (nearly 80,000/.) was defrayed
by the trustees acting under the will of Dr. lladcliffe.
The central elevation of the observatory is upwards
of '100 feet. The third story consists of an octan-
gular tower, with sculptures of the eight winds on
the entablature, and a ponderous earth - coloured
globe at the top, sustained, with seeming difficulty,
by two straining figures. The building is provided
wit!: a library, a lecture room, and a valuable astro-
nomical apparatus.
The Physic Garden originated with Henry Dan-
vers, Earl of Derby, who procured a lease of the
ground from Magdalen College, in 1622. The gar-
dens, comprising about five acres, are encompassed
by a wall : the entrance is through a handsome gate-
way, designed by Inigo Jones, and executed by
Nicholas Stone, senior. Over the arch of the gate-
way is a bust of the founder ; and on the right and
left are statues of Charles I. and II. The garden is
arranged in four quarters, and is provided with
suitable green-houses, and a hot-house. The plants,
&c. are numerous and estimable. In 1728 Dr. Sl»e-
rard, who had bestowed a number of exotics, left
••* Dr. Badcliffe uas admitted a batteler of University College,
in K>65, and was allerward^ maile senior scholar. He removed
to Liiicul.i College, where he took his doctor's degree in 1682.
Hi- practised some time at Oxford, will) success. He after-
wards removed to London, and obtained so much celebrity,
3000/. as the endowment of a professor in botany ; i
and, in 1793, the King founded a regius professor-
ship in botany.
St. Mary's church, in which the chief men -hers of
the University attend Divine service, except on
some particular days, is situated on the north of the
High Street. It is a beautiful Gothic structure, of
three aisles, and a spacious chancel, built in 1498.
The tower is square, with two graduated buttresses
at each angle, on every face of which is a statue in
a canopied niche. From behind these spring pinna-
cles, finely proportioned, and richly ornamented..
A taper spire surmounts the whole; the entire ele- •
vation being 180 feet. The front, towards the High
Street, is in the best style of Henry VII. 's reign.
A room on the north side of the chancel is used as
the common law-school, and lectures are read here
by the Vinerian professor.
Oxford, including the suburbs, is about one mile
and a quarter from east to west, and nearly tiiesaitie
from north to south. The city, which was encom-
passed by a wall, is of an oblong form, and not more
than two miles in circumference. Two principal
streets run from cast to west, and from north to
south. The first of these loses the name of High
Street when it reaches Quatrevois, or Carfax
Church, and loses also its width and splendour of
collegiate embellishment. The second has the church
of St. Giles near its commencement on the north, and
is, for some distance, of unusual width. It con-
tracts before it reaches Carfax ; but then again
opens, and occupies fresh importance from the front
of the Town Hall, and the fabric of Christ Church.
The minor streets occasionally remind the beholder
of the periods in which the limit of fortified walls
compelled the inhabitants to press their tenements
close together. The buildings of Oxford possess
three distinctions of character. The ancient houses,
constructed for traders, in an irregular and incom-
modious miinner, are of the most fragile materials.
The mansions built as lodgings for students before a
residence, in college became general, or as abodes
of the gentry while the court occasionally resorted
to Oxford, are still frequent ; these are of stone, on
an extensive sc'ile. The buildings of comparatively
recent periods are numerous, solid, commodious, and
eligible.
At what time Oxford was encompassed by a wall
is unknown; but it certainly possessed such a defence
in the reign of Edward the Confessor. When the
city was put in a state of defence by Charles I. tem-
porary fortifications were constructed, to alone for
the chasms in the ancient line of mural emhattle-
inents. The wall was lofty and massive, with towers,
or turrets, at the most assailable points ; and was,
that lie was chosen to attend the royal family during the reigns'
of William and Queen Anne. He had no family ; and, gtter
providing for his sisiers and nephews, l.e dedicated iiis properly
to the uses of the .University .
id
OXFORDSHIRE.
in some places, constructed on arches. There were,
originally, five gates, beside posterns. The chief
of these had two round towers of defence on each
side. The principal parts of the wall still remaining
are attached to Merlon and New Colleges.
The City, which is divided into four wards, com-
prises, with its suburbs, fourteen parishes :— All
Saints, Carfax, or St. Martin's, St. Clement's,
St. Ebbs, St. Giles's, Holowell, St. John's, St.
Mary Magdalen's, St. Mary's, St. Michael's, St.
Peter's in the East, St. Peter's in the Bailey, St.
Aldate's, or St. Old's, and St. Thomas's. —The
church of AH Saints, in the High Street, fell down
in 1099, and the present edifice was erected, under
the superintendance of Dr. Aldrich, dean of Christ
Church. It is a fine building, in the style which
Sir C. Wren assisted in rendering popular. There
are two ranges of windows, with duplicated Corin-
thian pilasters between those of the lower tier, and
a stone balustrade at the top. The tower is rustic,
and supports a turret encircled by Corinthian pillars,
from which proceeds a handsome spire. The interior
is seventy-two feet long, forty-two wide, and fifty
high, and comprises a nave, chancel, and two aisles.
There is no pillar within the walls, but pilasters of
the Corinthian order are plentifully introduced. The
ceiling was ornamented with fretwork, and with
double roivs of painted armorial bearings.
St. Peter's in the East is believed to have been
originally built by St. Grimbald, under the patronage
of Alfred. The building is composed of freestone,
and has a nave and side aisle, with a chancel, abut-
ting on which is another aisle that extends to the
north. The length, exclusive of the chancel, is
about seventy-six feet, and the width forty-two.
The chancel is thirty-nine feet in length. At the
west end is a square tower, having on each side a
small pointed window. The part towards the east
is the only remain of the Saxon fabric. The other
divisions are supposed to have been rebuilt in the
reign of Henry V. The chief window is pointed,
and more modern than the wall in which it is in-
serted ; but, on the south, are a window and several
small pillars and mouldings, completely Saxon. On
the other side, also, is part of a large Saxon win-
dow.— The_ chancel contains two fine clusters of
Saxon columns, and a window untouched by the
hand of innovation. The furniture of the church is
not magnificent. The font is embowered in a repre-
sens'ition of the forbidden tree, supported by two
unnttired figures, intended for Adam and Eve. .In
a window on the north is a fanciful symbol of the
Trinity. — Beneath the chancel is a crypt in excellent
preservation. In a vault under this chancel St.
Grimbald intended his remains to be placed ; but,
when the dispute arose between himself and the
scholars, he removed his monumental preparations
to Winchester. Under a stone in the church-yard
lie* Thomas Hearne, the antiquary. — This was ori-
ginally the University church, and the vice-chan- j
cellor, &c. attend service hece on Sundays in Lent.
Carfax, or St. Martin's church, descended by
several steps, is composed of a nave, two narrow
aisles, and achanceJL Over the west end is a tower,
reduced to its present dimensions in the reign of
Edward III. in consequence of a complaint made by
the scholars that the townsmen would retire thither
" in time of combat," and annoy them with stones
and arrows, as from a castle. — St. Clement's church,
in the eastern suburb, consists of one aisle and a
chancel. — The church of St. Ebbs, dedicated to the
memory of Ebba, daughter of Ethelfrid, King of
Northumberland, contains a nave, north aisle, and
chancel. — St. Giles's church, erected in the twelfth
century, on the site of an ancient British temple,
contains a nave, chancel, and two aisles. — Holywel),
a chapel, dedicated to the holy cross, and appertain-
ing to St. Peter's in the East, consists of one aisle
and a chancel, with an attached chantry. The
structure is believed to have been erected by Robert
de Oilgi, the Norman governor of Oxford, appointed
by the Conqueror.— St. Mary Magdalen's church
comprises a nave, two aisles, and a chancel. On
the north side is another chantry, supposed to have
been built by Dervorgille, the foundress of Baliol
College. At the west encl of the church is an em-
battled tower. — St. Michael's, which originally, be-
longed to the canons of St. Frideswide, was united
to All Saint's by the Bishop of Lincoln, in 1429.
The tower is very ancient. The building has a nave,
chancel, and two aisles. — On the site of St. Peter's
in the Bailey stood an ancient structure, which fell
down in 1728. The present church, opened in 1740,
is a respectable stone building. — St. Aldate's church,
is supposed to have been originally constructed by
the Britons. It was afterwards refounded, and used
as a cloister to receive persons training for the priory
of St. Frideswide and Abingdon Abbey. The pre-
sent church was built at various periods. — The
church of St. Thomas, founded in 1141, by the
canons of Oseney, has one aisle, a chancel, and an
embattled tower at the west end.
The city of Oxford is well paved. Magdalen
Bridge, over which it is entered from the east, is an
elegant stone building, 52fl feet in length, built in
1779, at the expense of eight thousand pounds. The
bridge over the Isis in the western suburb consists
of three substantial arches ; and, on the south, is
another bridge over the same river, on which for-
merly stood a lofty tower, termed Friar Bacon's
Study, evidently designed for a watch-tower. It is
supposed to have been built in the reign of Stephen^
Bacon, probably, was in the habit of ascending this
elevation, for the purpose of making astronomical
observations.
The Town and County Hall, a spacious stone
building, with a range of rustic work in the lower
division of, the front, and a pediment over the centre^
was completed in 1752, principally at the expence
of T. Rowney, Esq. M. P. and high steward of the
city. In one of the rooms are some good portraits,
Here are various rooms for the use of the corpora-
tion.
OXFORDSHIRE.
107
The Music Room, in Holywell Street, a hand-
some stone edifice, is not very large, but contains an
orchestra, with rows 'of seats for the auditory, rising
gradually from the floor. The front, of stone, is
plain, but well proportioned. It was built by sub-
scription, and was opened in 1748.
The Radcliflfe Infirmary, a large and commodious
stone building, is calculated to hold a considerable
number of patients. The trustees, under Dr. Rad-
cliffe's will, entirely built and furnished the infir-
mary ; the current expences of which are defrayed
by voluntary contributions. — About a quarter of a
mile to the south-west of the infirmary is a house of
industry, for the poor of eleven parishes. At the
extremity of the eastern suburb, on the road leading
to Headington, is a range of alms-houses, founded
by Cutler Boulter, Esq. for six poor single men, of
six different counties, in which the donor possessed
estates. Each has a separate tenement, and is allow-
ed eight shillings per week, with liberty to work,
if willing and able. — Opposite to these is a building
founded for eight poor women, by the Rev. William
Stone ; each to receive twelve pounds per annum. —
In 1659, John Nixon, Esq. erected a school for the
sons of freemen, and endowed it with thirty pounds
annually for ever. — The University supports a school
for fifty-four boys, termed the Grey Coat Charity ;
a school for about forty boys is maintained by con-
tributions from the chief inhabitants of the city ; and
the ladies of Oxford support at school about thirty
girls, who are afterwards apprenticed, or placed for
a term in servitude.
The Catholics, Quakers, Methodists, and Baptists,
have each a place of worship in the city.
The number of religious houses here, previously
to the Reformation, was nineteen : St. Friclesvvida's,
St. George's College, Osney Abbey, Rewley Abbey,
St. Bernard's College, Canterbury College, Durham
College, Gloucester Hall, London College, St. Mary's
College, St. Bartholomew's Hospital, St. John's
Hospital, Austin Friars, Black Friars, Grey Friars,
White Friars, Crouched Friars, Friars tie Sacco,
Trinity House. Scarcely any of the buildings have
been preserved, except small portions of Gloucester
Hall and Durham College. — The palace of Beau-
mont, built by Henry the First, and finished in 1 1-28,
stood on the west side of the city. A small low
fragment, which appears to have formed a part of
one of the subordinate divisions, but which is term-
ed, by vulgar tradition, the room in which King
Richard the First was born, still remains.
The town and county Gaol is a spacious stone
building', with separate lodgings and yards of cxer-
* The dungeons of the ancient castle were first granted, as
prisons, to the University and the county at large, by Henry
the Third. The whole buildings were repaired, and put
in a posture of defence, by Charles the First. ".The slalelj
towers," sa^s Peshall, "were standing till Colonel Ingoldsby,
the governor's time, in 164y, when the castle being designed
by the Parliament for a garrison after the city works were
slighted and decayed, they were all, being four in number,
besides that on the gate, pulled down, and bulwa/ks on the
. JV. NO. 119.
cise for the debtors and felons. The buildings are
arranged in imitation of Gothic castellated towers ;
and the principal entrance is between two low em-
battled turrets. This gaol occupies the site of the
castle built in the reign of William the First, by
Robert de Oilgi*.
The City Bridewell, situated in an extensive area,
is a substantial and well-arranged building, finished
in 1789. Previously to that period, the offenders
within the city jurisdiction were placed in a prison
over the north-gate, called Bocardo. In that dreary
gaol Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer, were confined,
and thence they were led to the stake. When the
Bocardo was pulled down, by the act obtained for
improving the city, Mr. Alderman Fletcher pro-
cured the door said to have led to the cell of the
bishops' confinement, and caused.it to be preserved
in the new Bridewell. It is placed in a small room
which forms an entrance to the prison.
In the general market, opened in 1774, are three
divisions for the different classes of purveyors: the
first, which has three approaches from the north side
of the high-street, is occupied entirely by butchers ;
the second is provided with stalls for the venders of
poultry, bacon, &c. and the third partition is allotted
to the sale of vegetables and fruit. An arcade,
with ranges of shops, proceeds along the whole of
the outside ; and the interior of the market is aired
by three avenues across, and one up the centre. The
vice-chancellor of the University is empowered to
superintend and govern the markets, to inspect weights
and measures, to punish foreslallers, regraters, &c.
Two clerks of the market are chosen from the Mas-
ters of Arts, and Bachelors of Divinity, Law, and
Medicine, for this purpose. — For many centuries the
market people assembled in different quarters of the
city, and exposed their articles lor sale in the open
air ; and the farmers still assemble on market-days
in the open highway.
No theatric-ill representations are now allowed at
Oxford, although they were tolerated in the latter
part of the seventeenth century. — The internal go-
vernment of the city is vested in a mayor, high-
steward, recorder, four aldermen, eight assistants,
two bailiffs, a town clerk, two chamberlains, and
twenty-four common-council. Oxford sent, abori-
gine, members to Parliament. The members are
chosen by the citizens and freemen : the mayor and
bailiffs are the returning officers.
Amongst the celebrated natives of Oxford, may
be mentioned King Richard the First ; Thomas
Cowper, Bishop of Winchester, author of the Chro-
nicle, and Latin Dictionary ; Barten Holyday (born
mount erected in their places ; yet, though the said bulwarks,
wilh other edifices, were above a year finishing, and cost many
hundred pounds, when Charles the Second came from Worces-
ter here, in August, 1652, they were, in four days' space, quite
pulled down and demolished." The only remains now to be
seen of D'Oilgi's massive structure, are tin- mount, a crypt, and
the shell of one tower. Tne tower is square, and lighted only
by a lew loop holes. A narrow stone stair-case winds up a
projecting turret at one of'the angles.
-.'i: in
110
OXFORDSHIRE.
in 1593, died in 1661,) a learned divine, who trans-
lated the Satires of Juvenal into English ; Thomas
Harriot, with whom originated the mode of notation
now used in algebra *; William Joyner, otherwise
Lyde (born in 162-2, died in 1706,) author of Poems
and several other works ; Gerard Langbaine (born
in 1656, died in 1692,) author of " A New Catalogue
of English Plays," &c. ; Samuel Welles ; Dr. Ed-
ward Wotton (born in 1492, died in 1555,) physician
to Henry the Eighth ; William Chillingworth, the
polemic writer t; Sir William Davenant, the dra-
matist I; Dr. Charles Davenant, the son of Sir Wil-
liam, and author of various political writings ; Dr.
Edward Pocock, the Orientalist § ; Anthony a Wood,
the antiquary jj ; Sir Matthew Wright, author of the
Law of Tenures, &c.
PJRTON.] —This hundred, to the S.W. of Lewknor,is
divided nearly into equal parts by the Ikeneild-street ;
to the south-east of which is a succession of chalk
hills, while on the north-west the country is compa-
ratively flat, and the soil miscellaneous. The eleva-
tions immediately above the Ikeneild way, in its pro-
gress across the county, consist of ranges of meagre
down-land, chiefly used as sheep-walks. — This hun-
dred contains one market town, Watlington, and
the parishes, &c. of Assendon, Clare, Colder,
Greenfield, Pirton (with Christmas Common,) Puss-
hill, Shirbourn, Standhill, Stoke-talmage, Warms-
comb, South-Weston, and Wheatfield.
Watlington, five miles S. from Tetsworth, and
45J W. by N. from London, is observed by Plot,
" to be of no small antiquity, provided its age do
but answer its etymologic ; for by its name it seems
to have been an old British city, which, according
to Strabo, were nothing else but groves, fenced about
* Harriot was patronized by Sir Walter Raleigh, whom lie
accompanied to Virginia, ami afterwards received a pension
from Henry, Earl of Northumberland, under whose protection
he pursued his mathematical studies. Harriot retired to the
country shortly alter the execution of his first great patron, and
died in 1621.
f II U lather was a trader in Oxford, and afterwards mayor.
According to Bishop Hare, Chillingworth was " certainly a
good reasoner, but was more a man of .<. unius than of reading."
Lord Shaftesbury mentions him among" the cliiel pillars of the
church against fanaticism." — He bequeathed 400/. to be lent,
with interest, 'to poor tradesmen, of Oxford, the fund accruing
from the interest (o be employed in apprenticing destitute chil-
dren. He died in 1644.
£ He was born' at the Crown Inn, which his father kept,
near Carfax church. He was tutored in academical learning
under Daniel Hough, but his spirits were unwilling, and his
progress slow. He had listened to his mother's account of
Shakespeare; and had alteuded to his father's recitation ol
various moral and sublime passages in the writings of the great
bard. He became inflamed with the love of poetry, and quitted
academical ease for the service of the muses. In Fulk Grevilc,
Lord Brooke, he found a patron, of taste and influence ; and,
on the death of Ben Jonson, was created poet laureat. Duriiv»
the political troubles which ensued, hopeless of finding persons
to read his prose, or to listen to his odes, he embarked lor Vir-
ginia, but was seized by one of the Parliament ships, and placed
as a prisoner in the Tower of London. He owed his liberation
chiefly to the interference of Milton ; and was constrained to
write, for support, those operalical pieces which were the only
with trees, cut down and laid cross one another,
within which they built sheds both for themselves
and their cattle ; which manner of fence the Saxons
after called crates, hurdles, or wattles." At the
Norman Survey, the manor was held of the king by
Robert de Oilgi, the distinguished favourite of the
Conqueror. — Watlington is now a small town, the
streets of which are narrow, and the houses generally
mean and ill-built. It is remarkable, that, though
the houses are generally of brick, many of the inner
partition walls are formed by a kind of wicker-work,
resembling a wattled, or flake hurdle, against which
mortar, or mud, was thrown, until a proper thick-
ness was acquired. This mode of building was for-
merly usual throughout the whole Chiltern country ;
but, in this instance, it forms a curious coincidence
with the name of the town. The more apcient part
of Watlington (of which no fragment now remains)
was on the north side of the church ; and it may be
observed, that the buildings last taken down in that
division were entirely composed of wattles and mud.
— The nearest navigable stream is at the distance
of six miles ; a circumstance adverse to the pros-
perity of the place, which has no staple, manufacture
of consequence, though the making of lace prevails
to some extent. A school, for the purpose of teach-
ing this art, is usually attended by forty or fifty
pupils. The neighbouring roads are, perhaps, the
worst in the country. A bank, however, has been
established within these few years ; and various im-
provements are taking place. — The town stands about
half a mile north by west of the Ikeneild Street,
and is watered on the south side by a brook, which
works within a short distance four corn-mills. The
manor was granted by Edward the Third, to Sir
dramatic representations allowed by the temper of the age.
His works were collected, and reprinted in a folio volume, after
his death, for the benefit of his family. Lord Clarendon de-
scribes Davenant as a man of witty conversation, and of un-
doubted integrity.
§ He was born in 1604. At fourteen years of age he entered
commoner of Magdalen Hall, and was afterwards elected fellow
ot Corpus Christi College. He was employed by Archbishop
Laud to collect Arabian manuscripts; and was appointed that
prelate's first professor of Arabic. By Charles the First, he
was nominated to the Hebrew professorship, with a canonry of
Christ Church annexed. He died in 1691.
|| He was a descendant of the Woods of Lancashire, and was
born in 1632. His father, a.cwlian of some repute, was fined,
in 1630, for refusing knighthood. Anthony received the rudi-
ments of education at Tliame School ; and was afterwards
admitted Portmaster of Merlon College. He devoted the
whole of his time, though his expectations were extremely
limited, to the study of history, and the recreations of painting
and music. He resided entirely'at Oxford ; and scarcely ever lei't
his boyks, unless to converse with antiquaries, or to join occasi-
onally in musical parties. For thirty years he almost invariably
dined alone in his chamber ; and visited the booksellers' shops
while the other students were at dinner. His chief works are
the " Athena?," and the " Historia et Antiquitates Universitatis
Oxon." Both these works evince an indefatigable zeal of re-
search ; but the former abounds with insinuations and sarcastic
remarks. His manuscripts, deposited in a room attached to
the Ashmolean Museum, are very numerous. He died in
1695.
Nicholas
OXFORDSHIRE.
Ill-
Nicholas de la Becke, who obtained permission, in
1338, to build a spacious castle, Home traces of
which were discoverable about a century ago. The
building stood on a slightly-elevated spot to the
south-east of the chancel of the church, and it may
yet be perceived that the structure was encompassed
by a moat. Charles I. granted and confirmed the
manor unto four citizens of London, who, in 1629,
sold it to Edmund Symeon, of Pirton, Esq. and
Thomas Adeane, of Chalgrove, gent. Soon after-
wards it became so divided and parcelled out, that,
in 1664, there were about fifty persons participating
in the manorial rights ; and, previously to the enclo-
sure of the parish, which took place in 1809, the
shares of the manor were sixty-four and a half in
number. In the centre of the town is the market-
liouse, a substantial brick building, erected by
Thomas Stonor, Esq. in 1664. The same bene-
factor founded, and endowed with ten pounds per
annum, a grammar-school for ten (now 1 4) boys.
The church is an ancient building, remote from the
main part of the town on the north-west. In the
chancel are several neat monuments, and the hand-
some burial-place of the Home family : Here was
formerly a chapel, founded by the lord of the manor
of Watcomb ; but, on a complaint made by the abbot
and canons of Osney, Pope Urban HI. dissolved
it, and no traces can now be discovered of its site.
A Sunday-school was established here for instruct-
ing the children of the poor, in the year 1800.
Robert Parslow, an inn-keeper at Watlington, in
the seventeenth century, bequeathed 200/. to be laid
out in land, and the rent applied to the following
purposes : — " on the annual recurrence of the day
of his funeral, (the I9th of November,) ten. shillings
to the clergyman for preaching a sermon ; ten shil-
lings to the clerk for tolling the great bell from nine
o'clock in the morning till sunset, sermon time ex-
cepted ; and the remainder to be expended in the
purchase of coats and gowns for poor persons of the
town, who are to attend Divine service in their new
garments." These injunctions have met with scru-
pulous attention ; and, from the improved rent of
the land, about thirty persons are now furnished with
a comfortable article of dress on the anniversary.
Tradition states, that a military chest of some value
had been left at this inn-keeper's house during the
civil war ; and, in the confusion of the times, it re-
mained unclaimed. The sum dedicated to religious
and charitable uses they, therefore, consider a sort
of expiatory offering for freedoms taken with pro-
perty to which he possessed no legitimate right. —
The Wesleyan Methodists and the Baptists have each
a place of worship in the town ; but the number of
these societies is comparatively small.
On Britwell-IIill, about a quarter of a mile east
of the Ikencild-street, some remains of trenches shew
the site of an ancient encampment. — About half a
mile from Watlington is one of the most complete
agricuttural establishments in the county. The
whole of the very extensive farm -yard is encom-
passed by buildings covered with slate, and presents
to the remote beholder the mimic spectacle of a new
and comely village. This range of buildings was
erected by William Hnyward, Esq. and completed
under his inspection, in one year. — The surround-
ing country is celebrated for coursing. On the
hill contiguous to Mr. Hayward's residence an
obelisk was shaped, about half a century ago, at the
expence of Edward Home, Esq. by incisions in the
turf. This, from the chalky nature of the soil, is a
conspicuous object for many miles distant.
PIHTON, 4J miles S. from Tetsworth, is an incon-
siderable village. The manorial rights belong to the
dean and chapter of Windsor. H. Rose, M. A.
author of a Philosophical Essay for the Re-union of
Languages, printed in 1674, was born here.
Near this village is Shirbourn Castle, the seat of
the Earl of Macclesfield. Sir Wariner de L'IsIe
obtained permission to build a castle, in the 51st of
Edward HI. at Sbirbourn, where his ancestor,
Wariner de L'Isle, in the 10th of the same king,
had a charter of free warren, and leave to enclose
one hundred acres of woodland for a park. The
castle and manor were purchased at the beginning
of the last century by the Earl of Macclesfield. The
building, nearly in the form of a parallellogram, is
encompassed by a broad and deep moat. The ap-
proaches are over three draw-bridges ; the chief en-
trance is guarded by a portcullis. At each angle
of the edifice is a circular tower. Flat ranges of
stone building occupy the intervals ; and along the
whole top is an embattled parapet. The interior is
disposed in a style of modern elegance and comfort
that contains no allusion to the external character of
the structure, with an exception of one long room
fitted up as an armoury. The rooms are in general
well proportioned, but not of very large dimensions.
There are two capacious libraries, well furnished
with books, and tastefully adorned with paintings
and sculpture. Among the portraits is an original
of Catharine Parr, Queen to Henry VIII. Her
dress is black, richly ornamented with precious
stones. The fingers are loaded with rings ; and in.
one hand is a handkerchief, edged with deep lace.
Inserted in the lower part of the frame, and carefully
covered with glass, is a piece of hair cut from the
head of Catharine Parr, in 1799, when her coffin
was opened at Sudley Castle. The hair is auburn,
and matches exactly with that described in the pic-
ture. Within the castle are warm and cold baths.
The park, containing about sixty acres, is too flat
to aftbrd much interest. The flower-garden is ar-
ranged in an agreeable and chaste style. A very
extensive conservatory has been built here of stone
and cast iron.
At Shirbourn Lodge, situated on one of the
boldest acclivities of the Chiltern range, a thick
mantle of beech envelopes the surrounding heights ;
and the whole situation appears, from the low-hinds,
to resemble in majestic gloom the domain of the
ancient feudal lord.
At
112
OXFORDSHIRE.
At a short distance from Wheatfield, the charming
seat of Lord C. Spencer, is a tumulus, with some
remains of an intrencbment on the south-east, term-
ed Adwell Cop, which Plot supposes to have been
constructed either by the Britons or the Danes.
Li the vicinity of "Stoke Talmfige are the remains
of Standolph Chapel, a building which has been for
several centuries appropriated to agricultural pur-
poses.
Watlington Park, the seat of J. H. Tilson, Esq.
lies about a mile and a half on the south-east from
the town of Watlington. In the reign of Charles
the First, this demense was granted from the
Crown, and from a warren was converted into a
park by the Stonor family. Of one of their de-
scendants it was purchased by the present proprie-
tor. The mansion is a respectable brick edifice, on
a lofty site. The park comprises three hundred
acres, and has every variety of feature and pros-
pect which the Chiltern inequalities can bestow.
Towards Henley, about four miles from Watling-
ton, is the little village of Pusshill. The church, a
decent rural building, is seated on an acclivity. Its
single bell was, several ages ago, hung in a yew-tree
standing in the church-yard. Pusshill was formerly
held by the family of Doily, yielding to the king
yearly a table-cloth of three shillings price, or three
shillings for all service.
Stonor is thus described by Leland : — " Stonor is
a three mile out of Henley. Ther is a fayre parke,
and a warren of conies, and fayre wood. The man-
sion place standyth clyming on a hill, and hath two
courtes bnildyd with tyinbre, brike, and flynte. Sir
William Stonar, now pocessor of it, hath augmented
and strengthened the house. The Stoners hathe
longe had it in possession. Synce one Fortescue
invaded it by marriage of an heire -general of the
Stoners, but after dispocessyd." Stonor is 4| miles
N. byW. distant from Henley. The mansion now
consists of a handsome front, of brick, with two
projecting wings. Adjoining is a chapel. The park
is well stocked with deer. — This place gave name
to the ancient family, whose descendant, Thomas
Stonor, Esq. still possesses the estate*.
At Assendon, four miles N.N. W. from Henley,
is a land spring, reputed the most eminent of its kind
in England. The water only appears after a con-
tinuance of wet weather, but then issues forth in such
abundance, that mills might be turned by the current,
and the adjacent lowlands are inundated. This spring
has been supposed by some to act on the principle
of a natural syphon, and to be supplied from subter-
ranean sources ; but this is erroneous, as the periods
of its flowing are uniformly after wet seasons.
PLOUGHLEY.] — This hundred is separated from
Wootton by the Charwell, and joins Bullington hun-
dred on the south and south-east. The aspect of the
* Of this family were Sir John Stonor, chief justice of the
.Common Pleas in the .reign of Edward the Third ; and Sir
Francis Sionor, who, in the early part of the seventeenth cen-
country is in general flat ; and the soil of the higher
land is shallow, but tenacious ; the stonebrash per-
vades a large portion of the other districts. The Ox-
ford canal runs along the whole western side. A part
of this hundred is isolated in Buckinghamshire. It
contains the town of Bicester, and the parishes, &c.
of Ardley, Bletchingdon, Boycot (extra-parochial ;)
Bucknell, Charlton upon Otmore, Chesterton, Cots-
ford, Fencot and Murcot, Finmere, Fringford, Frit-
well, Goddington, Hampton-Gay, Hampton-Poyle,
Hardwicke, Heath, Lower Heyford, Upper Hey-
ford warren, Islip, Kirklington, Launton, Lilling-
stone-lovel, Middleton-stoney, Mixbury, Newtou-
Purcel, Noke, Oddington, Shelswell, 'Somerton,
Souldern, Stoke-Lyne, Strattou-Audley, Tusmore,.
Wendlebury, and Weston on the Green.
The market town of Bicester lies in a flat situa-
tion, near the eastern border of the county, 12 miles
N. E. by N. from Oxford, and 55 N. W. by W. from
London. The parish is divided into two districts,
termed King's End and Market End. In the former
is a handsome structure, the seat of John Coker, Esq.
The church is a large and respectable edifice. Here
is no peculiar manufacture ; but the town derives
great benefit from its market and cattle fairs.
It is believed, that St. Birinus bore a particular
relation to the town of Bicester ; which from him^
it is said, was called Birini-castrura, or Birincestre.
Others conceive that the town takes its name from
a small rivulet called the Bure, which rises in the
neighbourhood ; Plot thinks that it gains its appel-
lation from the forest of Bernwood, upon the edge
whereof it was seated ; but Ken net regards the
name as derived from the Saxon term signifying
castruin primarium, or principal fort ; this town
being, probably, a place of the greatest strength
and hope to the West Saxons against the Britons
or Mercians. It certainly was, in the age of Biri-
nus, a frontier garrison ; and was possibly built
about his time, and by his advice, from the ruins
of Alchester. The old town of Berincesler, first
built on the west park, or in King's end, is believed
to have been destroyed by the Danes. — Gilbert
Basset, Baron of Headington, founded here a priory
of canons regular of St. Augustine, dedicated to St.
Edburg. — In the close vicinity of Bicester is a spring,
called St. Edburg's Well ; of great repute with the
superstitious of past ages. The remembrance of the
saint is also preserved in " Edburg-Balk," a cor-
ruption of St. Edburg's Walk, which was a neat and
frequented path to the well from the priory. — The
customary oblations at Bicester, about the year 1212,
were one penny for a burial, for a marriage, or for
churching a woman : the altar, or sacrament offer-
ings, were threepence at Christmas, two pence at
Easter, and a penny at the two other principal
feasts ; besides offerings at confessions, &c.
fury, built at Upper Assendon an alms house for ten poor
people, and endowed it with a rent charge of sixty-one pounds
per annum.
Oae
OXFORDSHIRE.
113
One mile and a half on the south- west of Biceater
•re the faint traces of Alcliester, a city that was of
a square form, and intersected by four streets. This
station probably formed the frontier of the Dolmni
and Cattieuchlani ; and thence the army of Plautius
might readily pursue the Britons to Buckingham,
or the adjacent banks of the Ouse. The area has,
for many ages, been subject to the inroads of the
plough ; and numerous coins and curious relics have
been found at various times. Two neighbouring
villages maintain a connection in their names with
the desolated garrison. Chesterton, which lies con-
tiguous to the ancient city, two miles west by south
from Bicester, probably sprang from its ruins ; Wen-
dlebury is thought to derive its name from the Van-
dals, employed as auxiliaries by the Romans, and
who might have their station in this place. The
Akeman Street passed Alchester on the north. The
church of the present village of Chesterton stands
immediately contiguous to its line.
Kirtlington, 4| miles E. N. E. from Woodstock,
was formerly a. place of much political consequence,
from its situation as a frontier town between the
kingdoms of Mercia and the West Saxons. The
manor is vested in Sir H. W. Dashvvood, Bart, who
has here a fine seat, encompassed by an extensive
park.
At Bletchingdon, in this neighbourhood, in 1665,
the shock of an earthquake was felt. Arthur Annes-
ley, Esq. has a desirable residence on the northern
side of the village.
Islip, 5| miles N. by E. from Oxford, was the
birth place of Edward the Confessor. The palace
of his father, King Ethelred, is supposed to have
stood to the north-east of the village. The chapel
in which it has been supposed Edward was chris-
tened, stood at a small distance from the church.
This building was not desecrated till the usurpation
of Cromwell. In the 18th century it was converted
to a barn ; and every fragment was destroyed before
the year 1783.
At Middleton Stoney, three miles W. by N. from
Bicester, is the handsome seat of the Earl of Jersey.
Here was formerly a weekly market, long since dis-
used. In this parish was a castle, supposed to have
been erected on the ruins of a Saxon work.
Somerton is 3f miles S. E. from Deddington.
Dr. Juxton, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury,
beld the living.
At Tusmore, six miles N. by W. from Bicester,
is the desirable residence of William Ferrnor, Esq.
whose family have long flourished on this spot.
Many Roman coins have been found here. — The
* The following passage in Mercurius Rusticus is possibly
the exaggeration of a party : — " While the Rebels' army lay at
Thame, sending out parties, by chance they lighted upon some
of the king's soldiers ; and, amongst others, there was one, who,
touched in conscience for so grievous a sin as lifting up' his hand
against his lawful sovereign the Lord's anointed, forsook the
Rebels' army, and was entertained in his Majesty's pay ; and,
being in their power, they resolved instantly to hang him.
VOL. iv, — NO. 149.
! neighbouring district, termed liaynard's Green, was
one of the three places appointed by King Ridiurd I.
I for the first authorised tournaments that were held
I in'England.
TIIA.UE.] — This hundred touches the connty of
Buckingham on the north and east, and is p;irtly
separated from the hundred of Bullington on the
west by the river Thame ; the streams connected
with which are numerous, and the pasture land of
this district is eminently fertile. The soil of the
arable land is generally good. Thame, which ap-
pears to have formed a part of the hundred of Dor-
chester at the time of the Norman Survey, now con-
sists of the market town of Thame, and the hamlets,
parishes, &c. of Ascott, Attington, Great Milton,
•Little Milton, Tetsworth, and Waterstock.
The market town of Thame, or Tame, 13 miles
E. from Oxford, and 46 N. W. by W. from London,
derives its appellation from the river of the same
name on which it is situated. The parish is divided
into the six hamlets, or liberties, of Old Thame, New
Tbame,Priestend, Thame Park, Moreton, and North
Weston. The town, comprising the three first liber-
ties, stands on a dry gravelly soil, gently rising
from the river, and consists principally of one long
and spacious street. — Stukeley places Thame among
the Roman cities, and calls it Tamese. A Roman
military road certainly went through the town. In
1010, when the Danes overran these parts of Eng-
land, this town suffered severely. — The Norman
record describes the manor of Thame as a part of
the Bishop of Lincoln's extensive possessions in this
county : it now belongs to the Earl of Abingdon. —
During the civil wars of Charles, Thame was sur-
rounded by garrisons of the contending parties, and
experienced its full share of misery. Antony Wood,
the antiquary, was then a student in the town ; and
he has recorded several of the skirmishes to which
he was witness*. A fire occurred in this town, on the
•2nd of May, 1817, which destroyed the charm-
ing residence of David Moore, Esq. and fourteen
other houses.
Thame church is a large and handsome structure,
cruciform, and comprising a nave, two aisles, a north
and south transept, and a chancel. From the inter-
section rises a fine embattled tower. The entrance
is by a stone porch, ornamented with a canopied
niche, which formerly contained a statue of St. Mary,
to whom the building is dedicated. The aisles are
separated from the nave by five pillars, forming as
many Gothic arches. The pews, it is to be regretted,
are mean, and inconveniently disposed ; and several
irregular galleries destroy the harmony of eft'ect.
Nothing would serve to hang him on but the sign-post of the
King's Head, (now the Nag's Head,) in Thame. After being
turned off for some time a barbarous villain stepped up to him,
and, having lifted him up, he turned the dying man's face
towards the King's Head itself, and jeeringly said, " Nay, Sir !
you must speak one word with the king be'fore you go. You
are blindfold, and he cannot see, and by-and-by you shall both
come down together."
2 t Her*
114
OXFORDSHIRE.
Here are numerous sepulchral memorials of families
once important. In-arched, beneath a window of
the nortli transept, is the grey marble tomb of Geof-
frey Dormer, whose epitaph states that he was a
merchant of the staple of the town of Calais, and
his two wives. On the upper stone are the effigies,
in brass, of the three persons interred. Under the
one wife are five sons and eight daughters ; and
under the second are seven sons and five daughters.
At the feet of the first wife is a monogram. This
Geoffrey Dormer resided in a mansion at Thame,
which was not taken down till the year 1802, termed
Place-house ; and from him descended the various
families of Dormer, who formerly resided in this
county and in Buckinghamshire. — In the south tran-
sept, called Quatremain's Aisle, are two ancient
tombs of the family of Qnatremain, who formerly
Eossessed considerable property in the neighbour-
ood. One of these is composed entirely of dark
grey marble, with plain sides. On the upper stone
were formerly the effigies of two men in armour, with
swords and spurs, and two women, with several
coats of arms. Most of the brasses are now torn
away and lost. Their date was 1342. — The slab on
the second tomb is of dark grey marble, and the
sides of freestone, well adorned with Gothic work.
On the top are the effigies of two men and a woman.
The men are in rich armour, with swords and spurs ;
on the verge of the stone is an inscription, as fol-
lows : —
O certyn Deth, that ntfw hast overthrow
Richard Quatremayne, Squir, and Sibil bis wife, that lie here
full lowe,
That with royal Princes of Councel was (rue and wise famed,
To Richard Duke of York, and after with his sone, Kynge
Edward the IIII1'1 named ;
That foundid in the Church of Tame a Chantrie, VI pooremen
and a Fraternity
In (he worship of Si. Cristofer to be relieved in Perpetuity
They that of their Almys for tlier sowles a paternoster and ave
devoutly wull say,
Of holy Fadurs is granted them ptlon of dayes forty, alwey.
Which Richard and Sibill out of this worlde passid in the
Yere of our Lord MCCCCLX. Upon tlieirsowles
Jhii have mercy alwy.
The chantry founded by the above Richard Qua-
tremayue was in this transept. In the south east
corner is a stone figure of St. Christopher, and be-
low is a small niche. No remains of the hospital,
in which a brotherhood were to be " relieved in per-
petuity" could be seen even in Camden's time. —
The lancet windows of the chancel evince its anti-
quity. On the outer side is a carving, in stone, of
the arms of Adrian Barwis, prebendary of Thame in
* George Etherydge studied at Corpus Christ! College,
Oxford, and was admitted a fellow in 1539. He was afterwards
appointed king's professor of Greek ; but, in the reign of Eliza-
beth, was ejected on account of his religious opinions. He then
practised as a physician at Oxford, and also superintended the
education of several young gentlemen. There are some musi-
cal compositions and Latin poems by him extant in manuscript.
He died about 1688.
1480. The principal monument here is that of John
Lord Williams, of Thame. On this rich altar-tomb
of marble arc recumbent figures of his lordship and
his first wife, their heads reposing on cushions, and,
contrary to the usual custom, turned to the west.
At the feet of the man is a greyhound ; at those of
the lady is a unicorn. — On the south side of the chan-
cel is the monument of Sir John Clerke, of North
Weston, dated 1539. There is an effigy, in brass,
of the deceased, kneeling ; and, by an inscription
below, he is described as having " taken prisoner
Lonys of Orleans, Duke of Longueville, &c. on the
16th of August, in the 5th yer of the reigne of the
noble and victorious King Henry VIII." — The arms
of Lord Weymouth, who repaired the chancel in
1707, are placed in stained glass in the east win-
dow.— A little south-west of the church are the re-
mains of the Prebendal-house, which evince consi-
derable former grandeur. A large refectory is still
distinguishable. The chapel, which is also pre-
served, contains some traces of the altar, and the
stone-work of a handsome Gothic window. On three
sides was constructed a deep moat ; and the fourth
side was watered by the Thame. These relics are
now used as appendages to the parsonage farm. —
John Lord Williams, of Thame, founded -a school
here, and some alms-houses. The latter he erected
in his life-time, for five decayed tradesmen, and one
woman, of Thame. The school-house is a large and
handsome building, near the church. Here is also
a charity-school of a more humble description, esta-
blished from the benefactions of Montague, second
Earl of Abingdon; Mr. Woolaston, and Mr. Matthew
Crews. The number of boys instructed is twenty-
five. The town lias also the benefit of other bene-
factions, the revenues of which are distributed in
bread, clothes, and in the apprenticing of poor chil-
dren.
The Market-place is commodious; but the market-
house, or town-hall, is only an indifferent building.
— Here is a workhouse capable of containing from
sixty to seventy persons, part of which was formerly
a county bridewell, and was purchased by the parish
in 1790. — There is no manufacture carried on here,
except a little lace. A few years since, the town and
neighbourhood were chiefly supplied with fuel from
the beech woods of the C nil tern Hills; but since
the Oxford and Coventry Canal has been formed,
coals are obtained from Oxford, though at a heavy
expence.
George Etherydge, a physician*, and the cele-
brated Lord Chief Justice Holtf, were natives of
this town.
f Sir John Holt, born in 1642, after passing some years at
Abingdon school, became a <;entleinan commoner of Oriel
College, Oxford; and, in 1658, entered of Gray's Inn. He
applied with so much industry to the study of the common law,
that lie soon became one of the most eminent barristers. — In
J685 he was knighted by James II. and made recorder of the
city of London. He forfeited this situation, because he would
not expound a particular law according to the wish of the kin?.
It
OXFORDSHIRE.
115
It deserves to be mentioned, that in the summer
of 1816, on digging a close in the liberty of Priest-
End, in the occupation of Mr. Howlund, some teeth
of a very large size, supposed to be those of the
mammoth, were found. They were preserved by
Mr. David Moore, with several other curious spe-
cimens of fossil bones, found at various times on
digging gravel in the vicinity.
In Thame Park, about a mile from the town, stood
an abbey of some note. Sir Robert Gai, or Gait,
lord of the manor of Hampton, being possessed of a
fourth part of the village of Ottiugton, or Odding-
ton, in Oxfordshire ; and, having obtained permis-
sion from the abbot of Waverley in Surrey, the first
house of the Cistercian order in England, founded
an abbey at Ottingdon, to which he gave the name
of Otterley, from an adjacent wood, and endowed
it with lands in that village. Waverley supplied it
with its first monks ; but these, not liking the situ-
ation, before the building was completed sought for
a more favourable spot ; and, finding a patron in
Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln, he removed them to
his park near Thame, which he bestowed on the
new society, and erected for their reception an
abbey, the church of which he dedicated to St.
Mary, in 1138. The monks retained their lands in
Ottingdon, and received considerable augmentations
from fresh benefactors. At the Dissolution the
society consisted of an abbot and sixteen monks.
The abbey, with the whole of its possessions, was
surrendered in the 31st of Henry VIII. by Robert
King, the last abbot, who was, on the creation of
the see of Oxford, named its first bishop. — In the
reign of Edward VI. the abbey, park, and lands,
were given to the Protector Somerset. On the site
of a part of the abbey the present mansion-house
was erected by Philip, the father of the late Lord
Wenman. The building is of stone, and has in
front a handsome flight of steps. In the centre is
a pediment, on the tympanum of which are placed
the arms of Weriman. Considerable fragments of
the abbey, which still remain, are protected and ad-
joined by the modern elevation. — Near the house
is the ancient chapel, a plain but neat structure,
now used only as a burial place for the family. —
The park, containing about two hundred and twenty
acres, is skirted with woodland. It is rat her flat, but
has received all the aid which Brown could bestow.
North Weston, 1| mile W. S. W. from Thame,
which formed a part of the possession of the Qua-
tremains, belongs to Lord Charles Spencer. The
ancient manor-house is now used as a school. A
small contiguous chapel was taken down a few years
ago.
He was made Serjeant at law in 1686; and sat in the Convention
Parliament assembled by the Prince of Orange. In the tirst of
William and Mary he was appointed lord chief justice of the
Court of King's Bench, which office he held two and twenty
years.— When the lord chancellor Somers parted with the great
seal in" 1700, King William pressed the lord chief justice to
accept it ; but Holt declined, saying, " that lie uever had but
The village of Great Milton, four miles W. by
N. from Tetsworth, is situated on an eminence.
Here was formerly a priory, a cell to Abingdon.—
In the church is a black marble tablet, to the memory
of Mrs. Elizabeth Wilkinson, late wife to Dr. Henry
Wilkinson, principal of Magdalen Hall, Oxford.
She died December 8, 1651. After a long and
quaint inscription, these lines offer themselves: —
Here lye mother and babe, both without sins,
Next birth will make her and her infant, twins.
At the adjoining parish of Little Milton, was found
an ancient British coin, adorned with two faces on
the obverse, and an ill-shapen horse, with a wheel
beneath him, on the reverse, supposed to be a coin,
of Prasutagus, King of the Iceni.
WOOTON.] — This hundred, in our account of which
we have to describe the interesting town of Wood-
stock, and the magnificent palace of Blenheim, abuts
the city of Oxford on the north. Its extent is much
greater than that of any hundred south of Oxford ;
and, though formerly very thinly peopled, few divi-
sions of the county are now more populous or
flourishing. The Isis, Cherwell, Windrush, Glyme,
and Evenlode, water its fine tracts of meadow and
pasture land ; and large spots of useful and orna-
mental woodland are frequently found. — Here are
two market towns, Woodstock and Deddington, and
the parishes, &c. of North Aston, Middle Aston,
Steeple Aston, Great Barford, Middle Barton, Stee-
ple Barton, Westcott- Barton, Begbrook, Bladon,
Cassington, Clifton, Coggs and Wilcott, Long
Combe, Duns Tew, Eynshara, Glympton, Gosford,
Hanborough, Hempton, Heythorp (withDunthorpe,)
Kensington, Nether-Kiddington,Kidlington, North-
Leigh, South-Leigh, South-Newington, Rousham,
Saudford, Shipton upon Cherwell, Stanton Har-
court, Stonesfield, Tackley-Nethercott (with White-
hill,) Great Tew (with Little Tew,) Thrup, Wolver-
cot, Water-eaton, Wootton, Worton, Nether-Wor-
ton, Over- Worton, and Yarnton.
The market town of Woodstock, eight miles
NN. W. from Oxford, and 62i W. N. W. from Lon-
don, possesses powerful claims to notice. Here some
of the most august characters of English history
resided in chivalric pomp ; and here Chaucer, the
father of English poetry, wrote many of his poems.
— Old Woodstock, of which one venerable mansion,
and a few inferior houses now only remain, stood in
a sheltered situation on the border of the Glyme.
The present town occupies a fine and healthy emi-
nence. The houses are chiefly composed of stone.
Most of them are capacious, and many are of an
ornamental description ; especially the Rectory-
house, the residence of Dr. Mavor, erected by Bishop
one Chancery cause in his life, w hich he lost, and consequently
could not think himself fitly qualified for so great a trust." His
lordship sat in couit for the last time February 9, 1709, and
died on the 5lh of March following. He left" only ont- work
in print, intituled, " A Report of divers Cases in Pleas of the
Crown, adjudged and determined in the reign of the late King
Charles 11. with Directions for Justices of the Peace, &c."
Fell j
116
OXFORDSHIRE.
Fell ; and tho neighbouring mansion of Pryse Pryse, ,
Esq. which command exquisite views over Blenheim j
Park. Hensington House, near the entrance ot the
town on the Oxford side, also enjoys pleasing views, j
and is surrounded by grounds highly ornamental.
The town-hall, a handsome stone building, was
erected about the year 176«, after a design of Sir
William Chambers, at the expense of the present
Duke of Marlborough. On the tympanum ot a j
pediment in front of the edifice are the arms of the
Churchill family. Beneath the hall, is a piazza, used
as a market-place.
Woodstock is a chapelry to the parish of Bladou ;
and the original place of worship was a chantry,
founded in honour of " our Lady," by King John.
Henry VIII. granted the church to the Corporation
of the town ; but the patronage is in the gift of the
Marlborough family. The south part of the present
structure is a fragment of the ancient foundation.
The northern face of the church was rebuilt about
the year 1785 ; and a handsome tower was then
erected at the west end.— The interior is well arrang-
ed : the pews are handsome, and there is a good
organ. The font is of a recent date.— In the tower
are eight bells, with chimes, which go every four
hours, and have a different tune for every day in the
•week. — Adjoining the church is a grammar school,
founded and endowed, in 1585, by Mr. Cornwall,
a native of this place, under a licence from Queen
Elizabeth. Near the entrance of the town, from
Oxford, is a range of alms-houses, erected and
liberally endowed, in 1793, for six poor widows, by
Caroline, Duchess of Marlborough.
Here are two manufactures ; those of polished steel
and gloves. The articles of polished steel are made
entirely from the old nails of horses' shoes, which
are formed into small bars before they are applied
to the various purposes of delicate workmanship.
The lustre of the article thus tediously wrought is
eminently fine, and the polish is restored at a trifling
expense, however great- the apparent injury com-
mitted by rust*. This manufacture was introduced
in the beginning of the last century, but has much
declined, in consequence of the cheapness of the
Birmingham and Sheffield wares. — The manufacture
of leather into gloves, &c. was commenced there
about sixty years ago, and has progressively risen
in importance. From 800 to 400 dozen pairs of
* The price obtained for some specimens of the Woodstock
steel xvill convey an idea of the skill and labour bestowed. A
chain, weighing only two ounces, was sold in France tor 170/.
sterling. A box, in which the freedom of the borough was
presented to Lord Viscount Cliefden, cost thirty guineas ; and
for a" garter star, made for his Grace the Duke of Marlborough,
fifty guineas were paid.
The w hole circumstance of Henry's amour, especially
when the youth, noble descent, and innocent education of
Rosamond are taken into the account, was too tempting a
subject to escape tiie embellishments of poetry, and the fond
exaggerations of traditionary creators of marvels. It is pro-
bable that the gardens of Woodstock Palace, close to which
gloves are made weekly in th$ town and the neigh-
bouring villages ; and, it is supposed, that sixty or
seventy men, and thirteen or fourteen hundred
women and girls, find employment in various
branches of the manufacture.
The corporation consists of five aldermen, one of
whom is annually chosen mayor ; a high steward ;
a recorder ; two chamberlains, and a common clerk ;
with fifteen capital burgesses. The first charter of
incorporation was granted by Henry VI. in 1453.
This was confirmed, enlarged, or altered, by various
succeeding monarchs, the last of whom was Charles
II. who granted the charter under which the corpo-
ration now act. — Woodstock was a borough by pre-
scription, leng before it was incorporated. The two
burgesses are chosen by the mayor and commonalty.
— The festivities termed Whksun-Ales are still re-
tained in practice here. The ceremony occurs every
seventh year, when the inhabitants lay claim to cer-
tain portions of wood from Whichwood Forest to
assist in the celebrations.
This town has not a dissenting meeting-house of
any kind ; not does it contain any inhabitants who
professedly dissent from the church .establishment.
King Ethelred, who began his reign in 866, is
believed to have held a parliament, or council at
Woodstock ; and the great Alfred here translated
Boethius de Consolations Philosophic. The park
of Woodstock is said to have been the first that was
formed in England. Henry I. who entertained
much predilection for the spot, surrounded the park
with a stone wall ; either built or improved the regal
residence ; and placed in the park a collection of
foreign wild beasts. — The manor-house, or palace,
occupied a slightly elevated spot on the border of
the Glyme (then only a narrow stream,) at a short
distance from the grand bridge now within the walls
of Blenheim Park. It was here that Henry II. is
supposed to have spent the gayest season of his life,
in illicit dalliance with Rosamond, the fair and unfor-
tunate daughter of Walter Lord Clifford. He con-
structed for her reception a Bower, or retired dwell-
ing at a short distance from the palace. This house
(or bower, in the language of that day) was well
known to Chaucer, who draws the scenery of his
poem intituled the Dream, from Woodstock Park ;
and he describes the bower as a white castle, seated
I on an eminence, and adorned with maples-f- — The
site
was placed the house inhabited by Rosamond de Clifford,
consisted chiefly of the Topiary work, so usual with the fanciful
• gardeners of that era. The remains of these twisted and unna-
I tural alleys afford a subject of happy allusion to fabulous chro-
1 niclers. Particulars of tragic pathos were easily fabricated: and
hence from father to son ; ov, rather, from mother to daughter,
have passed " strange tales," touching a bower erected by
King Henry for the reception of " fair Rosamond," round
which he constructed a labyrinth, so artfully contrived that no
stranger could possibly unthread its mazes. Here Rosamond
was hidden from the "jealous queen ;" but, unluckily, that
dreaded personage discovered the beauty at the outward door
of the labyrinth. Rosamond fled, but in "her baste, she dropped
a ball
OXFORDSHIRE.
117
lite of Rosamond's house, or bower, is now covered
•with velvetty grass. Some foundations of building
were discovered, and various utensils, coins, and
antiquities were dug up, and presented to Lady
Diana Spencer, by the workmen, when the ground
was levelling by order of the first Duke of Marl-
borough. Adjacent to the spot on which the dwell-
ing stood, and in a dell screened on one side by
overhanging trees, and open on the other to a seques-
tered display of ronlantic scenery, is a basin deno-
minated Rosamond's Bath. This interesting spot
is a little westward of the grand bridge in Blenheim
Park, and is only a few paces from the lake. The
spring gushes from an artificial aperture in the
stones which line a cavity of the protecting hill, and
is received into a capacious bath, paved at the bot-
tom, and on the sides with freestone, and fenced
with iron palisades. The water is beautifully limpid ;
and various trees, fantastic and wild in their growth,
embower the adjacent knoll, and spread a pleasing
solemnity over the retreat." — Long after the romantic
"bower" lost its fair tenant, Henry II. resided in
the palace ; and here, in 1164, he received the
homage of Malcolm, King of Scotland, and Rice,
Prince of Wales.: — £dward I. called a parliament
here, in 1275 ; and' here was born Edmund, the
second son of that king, thence called Edmund of
Woodstock. — Rdward III. was much attached to
this regal -abode ; and Woodstock is honoured as
the birth-place of Edward, the eldest son of that
monarch, termed the Black Prince. An ancient man-
sion, at Old Woodstock, was formerly called Prince's
Place, and is said to have been the occasional resi-
dence of the Black Prince. The greater part of
the house does not appear to be older than the time
of Elizabeth ; but some of the numerous rooms may
perhaps have stood four centuries. — Thomas, the
sixth son of Edward III. was also born at Wood-
stock, and gained a surname from the pjace of his
nativity. — Richard II. was frequently here ; and,
during a festivity held by him at Christmas, John
Hastings, Earl ot Pembroke, was unfortunately slain.
Henry III. narrowly escaped assassination in the
palace. A priest, named Ribband, who was either
insane, or feigned to be so, climbed through a win-
dow by night to the chamber of the king and queen.
He was discovered while entering ; and was taken
either to Coventry, or Oxford, where he was torn to
pieces by horses. An attempt was also made on the
.life of Henry VIII. by William Morisco. — Chaucer
resided some time at Woodstock, and has finely de-
scribed many circumstances of the neighbouring
scenery. His house was situated at the right angle
of an area before the present usual entrance to the
park. The whole of this interesting building was
pulled down about half a century ago, except one
a ball of silk ; a part of which, adhering to her foot or garment,
acted as a clue. The queen penetrated llit recess ; and, though
at lirst Mtuck by her beauty into amazement, compelled her to
swallow poison. In point of fact, however, there is 110 ground
VOL. IV. — NO. 119.
small fragment, which contains a diminutive, lancet
shaped, window ; and a portion of some out -offices,
now forming part of a malt-house. Several writers
mention a large folio volume of Chaucer's works, in
manuscript, which was chained to a reading desk in
his house ; but the precise time when it disappeared,
and what has become of it, are totally unknown.
In the reign of Mary, Queen of England, the
Princess Elizabeth was placed here in confinement,
in the manor-house, or palace, under the care of Sir
Henry Beddingfield. While she was here, a fire
broke out in the room under her chamber. It ap-
pears to have been accidental ; for it was promptly
extinguished by those whom she denominated her
gaolers ; but many writers of the succeeding reign
were willing to suppose that some diabolical purpose
was connected with this alarm of conflagration. —
The room said to have been chiefly used by the
princess was not destroyed till the early part of the
last century. The roof was arched, and composed
of Irish oak, curiously carved, and painted blue,
with sprinklings of gilded ornaments. — During the
civil wars, the manor-house was injured by assault,
and farther dilapidated by rapine. It was defended
for the king by Captain Samuel Fawcet. Many of
the besiegers fell during the conflict ; and the arrival
of commissioners from the king, empowered to treat
concerning a surrender, alone prevented this intrepid
officer from burying himself beneath the ruins of the
place. The Parliamentarians treated this palace
with studied contumely. In 1649, commissioners
assembled here for the purpose of surveying the
royal property. These fanatics made the king's
bed-chamber their kitchen ; the council-hall they
constituted a brewhouse ; and in the dining-room
they placed, for the use of their fires, logs sawn
from a noble tree which had long flourished in the
park, under the name of the King's Oak. Their
triumph, however, was soon interrupted by a com-
bination ot strange circumstances, which filled that
age with wonder, and afforded a subject of laughter
to the era which -ucceeded. Frightful noises assail-
ed their ears in the night ; dreadful phantasms
glided before their eyes ; nor were their sight and
hearing alone rendered subject to terrific visitations.
Many round blows were given ; their bed-clothes
were torn in fragments ; and sundry noxious ingre-
dients were discharged on their amazed foreheads.
The populace dignified the nocturnal operator with
the name of the Just Devil of Woodstock. It
afterwards appeared that the whole was contrived
by the ingenuity of an adroit and humourous royal-
ist, named Joe Collins, who had procured the situa-
tion of secretary to the commissioners, for the pur-
pose of imposing on their credulity. — The palace
apd its appurtenances were afterwards granted to
whatever for believing that Rosamond died out of the ordinary
course of nature ; and it appears likely that she renounced all
intercourse with Henry, soon alter the arrival in England of his
queen, Eleanor of Guienne.
2 « various
OXFORDSHIRE.
various dependants on the prevailing faction. All
the furniture was dispersed, and even a part of the
materials of the building- was exposed to sale. Many
of the pictures are still preserved in the county.
The site of the house is now covered with verdant
sward, and browsed by deer ! On removing the
last vestige of former grandeur, two sycamore trees
were planted, which flourished with a prodigality of
foliage. On levelling the site of the manor-house,
in 1723, a coffin was dug up, in which was found a
gold ring, inscribed, " Remember the Covenant ;"
and, on moving the ground in the vicinity, in 1791,
several natural and artificial curiosities were dis-
covered, among the rest some coins of the Roman
emperors. Some of the intrenchments thrown up,
during the civil war in the time of Charles, are
still visible on the brow of the hill above Queen
Pool ; and the parterres and knots of the ancient
gardens are distinctly to be traced on the lawn, in
front of Churchill's Pillar.
Blenheim, the much celebrated seat of the ducal I
family of Marlborough, constitutes a portion of the i
honour of Woodstock, which was conferred on John j
Duke of Marlborough, by Queen Anne, in conse- !
quence of the great services which that illustrious j
warrior rendered to the state. Haifa million ster-
ling was also voted by parliament, for the purpose
of erecting a palace for the duke and his descendants.
The victory of Blenheim, atchieved on the 2nd of
August, 1704, was considered one of the most im-
portant of the services performed by his Grace ; and
from the scene of that glorious action the palace
derives its name. By way of tenure, it was directed,
that "on the second of August, in every year, for
ever, the inheritors of his Grace's honours and titles
should render at Windsor to her majesty, her heirs
and successors, one standard, or colours, with three
fleurs-de-lis painted thereon, as an acquittance for
all manner of rents, suits, and services due to the |
Crown." This custom is observed in the strictest i
manner.
The entrance to Blenheim from Woodstock is !
through a triumphal arch, of the Corinthian order, j
constructed under the direction of Sarah Duchess
of Marlborough. On the side next to the town is
an inscription in Latin, of which the following trans-
lation is presented on the face towards the park :
THIS GATE WAS BVILT THE YEAR AFTER THE DEATH
OF THE MOST ILt.VSTRIOVS
JOHN DVKE OF MARU5OROVGH BY ORDER OP SARAH
HIS MOST BELOVED WIFE
TO WHOM HE LEFT THE SOLE DIRECTION OF THE
MANY THINGS
THAT REMAINED VNFINISHED OF THIS FABRICK.
THE SERVICES OF THIS GREAT MAN TO HIS
COVNTRY THh PILLAR
*1LL TELL YOV WHICH THE DVCHESS HA! ERECTED
FOR. A LASTING
MONVMENT OF HIS GLORY AND HER AFFECTION
TO HIM.
MDCCXXIIf.
Advancing towards the building, on the right,
embedded in a wide and deep valli y, is a bea'.itiful
expanse of water, over which is a stately bridge.
At some remove, in front of the palace, rises a sculp-
tured column, of vast and lofty proportions. In
the distance, is a beautiful succession of wood and
water, boundless to the eye. The approach is over
a wide and open gravel road, a quarter of a mile
in length,- and judiciously made to deviate from a
straight line, as though to allow leisure for the
admiration excited, and to usher the examiner to
spots commanding fresh displays of pictorial beauty.
Further on, this road unites with another, termed
the Mall, which leads from a noble entrance on the
south of Woodstock, and is lined by double rows of
forest trees. — When the northern, or grand front of
the building is attained, the coup d'«il is at once
impressive, and sublime. According to Sir Joshua
Reynolds, no architect understood the picturesque
of building so well as Vanbrugh ; and Blenheim
Palace seems to prove the correctness of this opinion.
The extent of this front, from wing to wing, is 348
feet. The whole is highly ornamented ; and the
centre is supported by columns of the Corinthian
order. — The site of the palace is sufficiently elevated
to display the fabric to great effect, without detract-
ing from its aomparative magnitude ; and that fine
expanse of water, which is one of the boasts of
Blenheim, is thrown in majestic meanders to the
right and the left, its banks ever rising into ridges
of hills that intersect each other with graceful
sportiveness of form, some crowned with masses of
wood, others clothed with the richest of verdure, and
only dotted with ornamental umbrage. Over the
broad stream, directly in front of the palace, is the
bridge before noticed, which in itself would seem a
labour worthy of public industry ; and, on an eleva-
tion, pre-eminent among the knolls which adorn
this demesne, is the pillar, surmounted by a statue of
Duke John, in a triumphal garb and attitude. To
the right are seen the arches of a second bridge,
constructed, as it were, to astonish the spectator
with an exuberance of costly and finished architec-
tural display. — The south-front of the building is a
chaste and fine elevation ; and the scenery happily
assimilates with ils character. Over a Corinthian
portico is a colossal bust of Louis XIV. taken from
the gates of Tournay, a truly gratifying and appro-
priate embellishment ! This bust is adorned with
various military emblems ; and, on the pediment, is
an inscription, as follows : —
EUROPE H^C VINDEX GKNJO DECORA ALTA BRITANNO*.
On entering the p;ilace, through the superb por-
tico in front, the hall first excites attention. It is of
fine proportions, and ascends to the height of the
building, sixty-seven feet. The roof is supported
by pillars of the Corinthian order. The ceiling,
* Translation — "The Assertor ol de liberty of Europe
dedicates these lofty honours to the Genius of Britain."
painted
OXFORDSHIRE.
119
painted by Sir James Tliornhill, represents Victory,
with proper accompaniments, crowning John Duke
of Marlborough, as she points to a plan of the
battle of Blenheim. The duke is depicted in a blue
Roman dress. In the lower division of the hall
appears part of a gallery, which runs to the whole
extent of the mansion, and is ornamented with nume-
rous family portraits ; with whole lengths of Clara
Eugenia, Infanta of Spain, and Queen Anne, by
Lely ; with two large family pieces, and some pleas-
ing specimens of sculpture. Over the marble door-
case which communicates with the saloon is a bust
of Duke John, with an inscription in Latin, to this
effect : —
Behold the man to distant nations known,
Who shook the Gallic, fix'd the Austrian throne.
New lustre to Britannia's glory gave ;
In councils prudent as in action brave.
Not Julius more in arms distineuish'd shin'd,
Nor could Augustus better calm mankind.
Near the angles, in niches beneath the gallery,
are the Medicean Venus and the Dancing Fawn,
executed in bronze by Maximilian Soldani Benzi,
from originals in the collection of the Grand Duke
of Tuscany. On a black marble slab is placed a
Diana and Dog, fine and antique ; and, opposite is
a vase, with figures in relievo, from the antique,
supposed to represent the nuptial ceremonies of the
Romans. — In the bow-window room, is some unri-
valled tapestry. The subjects are the battles of
Blenheim and Wynandael ; the principal action of
the first being confined to the taking of Marshal
Tallard. — The ceiling is painted, and ornamented
with military emblems, by Hakewill. The window-
curtains and furniture are blue silk damask. Amongst
numerous pictures, is a fine combination, represent-
ing the Virgin and Child, St. John and St. Nicholas,
by Raphael, which formerly belonged to the Capella
degli Ansidei at Perrugia ; St. Jerome studying,
by Giorgioni ; a Female Head by Reubens ; a Ma-
dona and Child, by Leonardo da Vinci ; a Man's
Head, by Titian ; a Battle Piece, by Wouvermans ;
two drawings by Cipriani, for frontispieces to the
first and second volumes of the Gemma: Marlbu-
rienses, &c. are also entitled to notice. In the
duke's dressing-room— Our Saviour in the Virgin's
Lap, crowning two female Martyrs, by Titian ; two
pieces by Murillio, on his favourite subject, Beggar
Boys ; a fine Holy Family, by Reubens ; a Sleeping
Venus and Satyr, with attending Cupids, from the
school of the same artist, are amongst the pictorial
ornaments. In the East drawing-room, hung with
crimson damask, are, a highly-finished Bacchana-
lian Piece; Andromeda chained to the Rock ; Reu-
bens, with his Wife and Child, a present to the first
Duke by the City of Brussells ; and the Offering of
the Magi ; all by Reubens ; some family portraits ;
the Annunciation, by Corregio ; the Death of the
Virgin Mary, by Guido ; a Landscape, Paul Brylle ;
a Holy Family, by Raphael ; a small Landscape,
by Claude Lorraine ; Philip II. King of Spain, a
whole length, by Titian ; the Duchess of Bucking-
ham and Offspring ; Charles I. ; and Queen Hen-
rietta Maria, all by Vandyke. — In the grand cabinet
is a magnificent apartment, which opens to the east
and south, and commands the most charming sce-
nery : the hangings and furniture are rich crimson
damask, with gildings ; and, in the centre of the
ceiling is a large circular gilt plume. Over the
chimney-piece stand the listening Slave, and a
crouching Venus, in bronze. Here are the follow-
ing pieces, all by Reubens :— A Holy Family ; the
Offering of the Magi ; Our Saviour blessing the
Children ; Filial Affection, exemplified in the Roman
Daughter ; Lot's Departure out of Sodom ; the re-
turn of Our Saviour from Egypt ; and a portrait
of Paracelsus. Here are also, a Madona, her head
encircled with stars, supposed the miraculous con-
ception, by Carlo Dolce ; a Madona standing on 41
Globe, surrounded by Angels, by Carlo Maratti ;
Raphael's favourite Dorothea, by himself; Pope
Gregory, and a Female Penitent bearing a palm
branch, by Titian ; a Holy Family, by Ludovico
Caracci, &c. — The Blue Drawing-room has damask
hangings, with ornamental gi)t bordures. Amongst
the paintings in this apartment are the following : — •
Our Saviour and St. John, Carlo Dolce ; the Wo-
man taken in Adultery, Rembrandt ; Isaac blessing
Jacob, Rembrandt ; Catharine of Medicis, Reubens ;
Dorothy, Countess of Sunderlaud, the Sacharissa of
Waller, by Vandyke ; a small Family Piece, by
Gonzales ; two Landscapes, by Gaspard Poussin ; a
Landscape, by Wouvermans ; a Holy Family, by
Ludovico Caracci ; and a Collection of Miniatures,
(three of Mary Queen of Scots) inclosed in one
frame. — The tapestry in the Winter Drawing-room,
represents the four cardinal virtues, witli charac-
teristic emblems and embellishments. Different parts
of the room are adorned with bronzes of Cupids,
and of Hercules killing the Centaurs ; and, in the
centre of the chimney-piece, is an alto-relievo of
Cupid and Psyche's marriage, from the antique of
Tryphon.— Over the first door-way is Vandyke's
celebrated portrait of Lord Stafford, attended by
, his secretary. — Over the chimney is a portrait of
j Mary Duchess of Richmond, with a little girl pre-
• senting her gloves ; and, over the second door, are
i two portraits, on one canvas, of Mrs. Morton and
1 Mrs. Killigrew ; both by Vandyke. — In the Dining -
! room, an apartment well adapted for its destination,
I being large, lofty, and commodiously situated near
I the centre of the palace, the ceiling is richly stuc-
coed ; and the sides are wainscotted tu large panuels,
painted white. This room contains the following
paintings : — Lot iind his Daughters, by Reubens,
presented by the Emperor of Germany ; Venus and
Adonis, Reubens ; the Rape of Europa, Paul Vero-
nese ; Cattle and Figures, Castiglione ; several
small landscapes by Wootton ; the present Duke and
Duchess of Marlborough, with six of their Children,
Sir Joshua Reynolds ; a Bacchanalian piece, and a
whole length portrait of Queen Henrietta. Marie,
both
120
OXFORDSHIRE.
both by Vandyke.— The Saloon, a noble and spaci- |
ous apartment, communicates with the hall, and, |
with it, occupies the entire breadth of the centre, j
Its lower division is lined with marble ; and its four ,
door-cases are of the same material. Over each
door are the arms of the first duke. Above the
marble basement are six compartments, painted by
La Guerre, and professing to represent different
nations of the world, in their characteristic dresses
and contours ; but the whole consists of individual
caricatures, displaying little strength of humour.—
The ceiling is at the height of the building, and is
also painted by La Guerre with more success. It
emblematically represents John Duke of Marlbo-
rough, in the career of victory, arrested by the
hand of Peace, while Time reminds him of the rapi-
dity of his own flight.— In different parts of the
saloon are antique busts of Caracalla, and of a
Roman Consul ; a Cleopatra with the Asp ; and a
sculptured Sleeping Venus.— In the Green Drawing-
room is some excellent tapestry, representing the
Battle of Duunewert ; the Battle of Lisle ; the Siege
of Lisle ; and the Battle of Malplaquet.— Here are
also a portrait of a Juvenile Knight of St. John of
Jerusalem, ,by Barroccio ; Meleager and Atalanta,
Reubens ; the Adoration of the Shepherds, Lucca
Giordano ; the Offering of the Magi, by the same ; a
Madona and Child, Nicholas Poussin ; Figures,
encircled with wreaths of flowers, Rottenhammer ;
a Holy Family, Nicholas Poussin ; and a portrait
of the late Duchess of Marlborough, by Romney. —
A few years ago, the State Drawing-room was fur-
nished and decorated with much elegance. The
curtains and furniture are white damask ; and the
sides are hung with the original tapestry, represent-
ing the March to Bouchain, &c. — Over the chimney
is a portrait, by Romney, of the present Duke, in
his garter robes. The room is also ornamented with
St. Lawrence distributing the Ornaments of the
Altar, by II Prete Genoese ; and a Fruit Piece, by
Lucca Giordano. — The State Bed-Chamber is hung
with blue damask, interlaced with gold. The top of
the bed-frame, which rises into a dome, is surmount-
ed by a ducal coronet ; and the extremities of the
bed-posts are ornamented with military emblems.
The family arms are at the head. — Over the chim-
ney-piece is a fine painting, by Lucca Giordano,
representing Seneca bleeding to death. Here is
also a highly finished portrait of Edward VI. by
Holbein. — The library, which occupies the entire
west front, is upwards of 183 feet long, and thirty-
one feet nine inches wide in the centre. The base-
ment is of black marble ; and solid columns of
•veined marble support a rich entablature. Pilasters
of the Doric order are interspersed ; and the vaulted
ceiling is divided into compartments by stucco-work.
This gallery, originally intended for the reception of
paintings, has since been furnished with the grand
•Sunderland collection of books, comprising upwards
of seventeen thousand volumes, in various languages,
arts, and sciences ; all arranged in elegant cases,
with gilt wire latticed doors. The collection is
valued at 30,000/. — At the upper end of the room is
a white marble statue of Queen Anne, in her coro-
nation robes, by Rysbrack. On the pedestal is an
inscription, as follows : —
TO THE MEMORY OF QUEEN' ANNE !
UNDER WHOSE AUSPICES
JOHN DUKE OF MARLBOROUGH
CONQUERED,
AKD TO WHOSE MUNIFICENCE
HE AND HIS POSTERITY
WITH GRATITUDE '
OWE THE POSSESSION OF BLENHEIM
A.D. MDCCXXVI.
A fine bust of Alexander the Great, from Her-
culaneum, supported by an elegant modern therm,
designed by Sir William Chambers, is at the lower
end ; and, on the west side, is an antique statue,
inscribed Julia Domna, and a Diana and Dog.
Here also are several busts, portraits, &c. among
which must be noticed, John Duke of Marlborough,
partly in armour, with brown leather buskins, and
a baton in his hand ; Sarah Duchess of Marlborough ;
King William ; Queen Anne ; Charles, Duke of
Marlborough ; the Duke of Montague ; Lord Godol-
phin, &c. — The chapel is entered by a piazza, ia
the western wing of the palace. Its interior is con-
spicuous for an appropriate temperance of decora-
tion. On the right of the chapel is the monument
of the first Duke and Duchess, by Rysbrack. The
deceased are represented in marble, with their two
sons who died young. Colossal figures, emblema-
tic of fame and history, support their effigies ; and
the pen of history is supposed to have traced on a
tablet, which she holds in the other hand, an inscrip-
tion, as follows : —
TO THE MEMORY
OF JOHN DUKE OF MAKLBOROUGH AND-
HIS TWO SONS
HIS DUCHESS HAS ERECTED
THIS MONL'MBNT
IN THE YEAR OF CHiUST, MQCCXXXIII.
Underneath is a basso relievo, of the capture of
Marshal Tallard. The family vault is under the
monument. — The chapel has an altar-piece, repre-
senting our Saviour's Descent from the Cross, by
Jordaens of Antwerp ; and over the chimney is a
! small, but curious, painting, on black marble, by
Alessandro Veronese.
Near the eastern angle of the mansion is a com-
modious observatory, erected by the present duke,
and furnished with the best astronomical apparatus.
A grand telescope, by Herschell, was presented by
his Majesty, shortly after the royal visit to Blenheim,
upwards of twenty years ago. Over the eastern
gate of the palace is a reservoir, capable of contain-
ing five hundred hogsheads of water. This water,
) which supplies the house, is raised by an engine on
Aldersca's construction, in old Woodstock Mill. —
In this direction, the palace is entered by an arcadcd
quadrangle,
OXFORDSHIRE.
121
quadrangle, consisting chiefly of offices ; but, on the
left, is a division of building1, originally a green-
house, though now formed into a theatre ; adjoining
which is au apartment dedicated to the reception of
the following nine pictures, by Titian, presented hy
Victor Amadeus, King of Sardinia, to John Duke
of Marlborough : — Mars and Venus; Cupid and
Psyche ; Apollo and Daphne ; Pluto and Proser-
pine ; Hercules and Dejanira ; Vulcan and Ceres ;
Bacchus and Ariadne ; Jupiter, Juno, and lii ; and
Neptune and Amphitrite. The demesne appendage
to the castle, enclosed by walls, comprises about two
thousand seven hundred acres ; and the circumfe-
rence is said to be upwards of twelve miles. The
space which lies without the river is designated the
Great Park ; the lands chiefly surrounded by water
are termed the Little Park, comprising the gardens,
which contain two hundred acrw, arranged with the
utmost magnificence of design and correctness of
taste. The artificial ornaments are few, and calcu-
lated to impart desirable relief and animation. Short-
ly after entering on a walk of pebbly gravel, which
winds to the east among rising plantations, and
beautiful stretches of tulted lawn, is seen a little
structure, embellished with Corinthian capitals,
called the Temple of Health. This was erected
in 1789. On a marble tablet is an elegant inscrip-
tion, surmounted by a medallion of the king. — In a
choice and rural division of the grounds, denomi-
nated the Sheep- Walk, is constructed a small thatch-
ed edifice, termed the Shepherd's Cot. — The more
distant side of the gardens gains a powerful acces-
sion of beauty from the neighbourhood of the lake.
The water is, in one part, conducted, amid groupes
of acacia, cedar, and beech, to a finely mutilated
descent, down which it pours its volume, and forms a
pleasing cascade. At a short distance, in a pensive
and recluse dell, is a spacious basin, ornamented with
an estimable piece of sculpture, the last work of
Bernini. It is a copy from the magnificent fountain
iu the Piazza Navona, at Rome ; and was a present
from the Spanish ambassador at the Papal court to
the first Duke of Marlborough. On the four ex-
tremities of the rock which supports the obelisk, are
four river gods, sculptured in white marble. These
are intended to represent the Danube, the Nile,
La Plata, and the Ganges. Marble dolphins seem
to sport on the water ; and from a cavern appear
to issue a lion and a sea-horse, the emblems of
Europe and Africa. — Two casts in bronze, L'Arro-
tino and the Roman Wrestlers, both by Benzi, are
placed in different situations of the extensive gardens;
. and, on an elevation commanding exquisite pro-
spect?, is erected a temple to Diana, designed by Sir
William Chambers. — Within the pleasure grounds
was formerly a flower-garden, after the plan of
that of Madame Pompadour, at Versailles. An
aviary now occupies its site. The gardens for the
service of the table are extensive, and are furnished
with excellent tint-houses, a conservatory, &c.
In the Park is a fine succession of adorned home-
VOL. iv. — NO. 150.
scenery. It is well- wooded throughout, and in many
places 'we meet with ancient oaks which may have
afforded shade to our Edwards and Henrys. — The
early improvements in the grounds were effected
under the direction of Brown. — A delightful ftrme
ornee now adds the relief of simplicity to the charms
of splendour. The portion of the park allotted to
arable culture is in a retired situation, and could be
well spared from so extensive a district of pasture.
The park supports about 1500 head of deer, and
affords food to numerous Hooks of sheep.
The water of Blenheim, one of the most felicitous
of its features, is crossed by several stojie bridges.
That through which it enters the park has seven
arches. Spreading to a great expanse, the Glyme
stretches towards Queen Pool, a retired neighbour-
hood of islets, so denominated from Pliilippn, the
consort of Edward HI. Before the river flows
through another arch, it washes a little tract called
Queen Elizabeth's Island. This, however, is part
of an ancient causeway leading- to the manor-house,
which stood about three hundred feet distant, to-
wards the north. The Grand Bridge is a fine struc-
ture, though not conspicuous for lightness. The
diameter of the centre arch is one hundred and one
feet. — On quitting the park, the Glyme passes under
a low bridge, with numerous arches ; and, forming1
a steep cascade, mingles with the waters of the
Evenlode. — The Grand Column, already mentioned,
stands on a considerable eminence, in the midst of
a fine lawn. Its height is one hundred and thirty
feet. It is surmounted by a colossal statue of the
Great Duke of Marlborough, in a Roman dress ; at
his feet are two eagles ; in the left hand is the baton
of command, and in the right is a figure of victory,
elevated. On the side of the pedestal nearest to
Blenheim is the following inscription, supposed to
be from the pen of Lord Bolingbroke :
" The Castle of BLENHEIM was founded by Queen ANNE
In the fourth year of hfr Reign,
In the Year of the Christian /Era
One Thousand Seven Hundred and Five.
A monument designed to perpetuate the Mrmorv of the Signal
Victory ohtain'd over t|ie French am'1 Bavarians,
Near the Village of BLENHEIM,
On the Banks of the Danube,
,By JOHN DUKE of MARLBOROUGH,
The Hero not only of his Nation, but of his Age :
Whose Glorv was equal in the Council and in the Field;
Who, by Wisdom, Justice, Candour, and Address,
Reconcil'd various ami even <)|>,>o>its Interests;
Acquired an Influence
Which no Rank, no Authority can frivp,
Nor any Force, but that of superior Virtue ;
Became the fixed important Centre,
Which united, in one common Cause,
The principal States of EUROPE ;
Who, by military Knowledge, and irresistible Valour,
In a lung Scries of uninterrupted Triumphs,
Broke the Power ol France,
When raised the highest, when exerted the most :
Rescued the Empire from Desolation;
Asserted and confirmed the Liberties of EUROPE.
2H
' Philip,
12*
OXFORDSHIRE.
" Philip, a grandson of the house of Prance, united
to the inn-rest, directed by the policy, supported by
the arms of that crown, was placed on the throne of
Spain. King William III. beheld this formidable
union of two great, and once rival monarchies. At
the end of a lite spent in defending the liberties of
Europe, he saw them in their greatest danger. He
provided for their security in the most effectual man-
ner. He took the Duke of Marlborough into his
service.
" Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary
"To the States General of the United Provinces
" The duke contracted several alliances, before the
death of King William. He confirmed and improved
these, he contracted others, alter the accession of
Queen Anne : ami re-united the Confederacy, which
had been dissolved at the end of a former war, in a
stricter and firmer league.
" Captain General and Commander-in-Chief
" Of the Forces of Great Britain,
" The duke led to the field the army of the allies.
He took with surprising rapidity Venlo, Ruremonde,
Stevenswaert, Liege. He extended and secured the
frontiers of the Dutch. The enemies, whom he found
insulting at the gates of Nimeguen, were driven to
seek for shelter behind their lines. He forced Bonne,
Huy, Limbourg, in another campaign. He opened
the communication of the Khine, as well as the Maes.
He added all the country between these rivers to his
former conquests.
" The arms of France, favoured by the defection
of the Elector of Bavaria, had penetrated into the
heart of the empire. This mighty body lay exposed
to immediate ruin. In that memorable crisis, the Duke
of Marlborough led his troops, with unexampled cele-
rity, secrecy, order, from the Ocean to the Danube.
He saw, he attacked, nor stopped, but to conquer the
enemy. He forced the Bavarians, sustained by the
French, in their strong entrenchments at Schellenberg.
He passed the Danube. A second royal army, com-
posed of the best troops of France, was sent to rein-
force the first. That of the Confederates was divided.
With one part of it the siege of Ingolstadt was carried
on : with the other, the duke gave battle to the united
strength of France and Bavaria. On the second day
of August, one thousand seven hundred and four, he
gained a more glorious victory than the histories of any
a«e can boast. The heaps of slain were dreadful proofs
of his valour: a marshal of France, whole legions of
French, his prisoners, proclaimed his mercy. Bavaria
was subdued, Ratisbon, Augsbonrg, Ulin, Meming-
hen, all the usurpations of the enemy were restored.
From the Danube the Duke turned his victorious arms
towards the Rhine; and the Moselle, Landau, Treves
Traerbach were taken. In the course of one campaign
the very nature of the war was changed, The invaders
of other states were reduced to defend their own, Thu
frontier of France was exposed in its weakest part to
the efforts of the allies.
" That lie miglit improve this advantage, that he
might push the sum of things to a speedy decision, the
Duke of Marlborough led his troops early in tUe fol-
lowing year once more to the Moselle, They whom
he had saved a few months before, neglected to second
him now. They who might have been his companions
in conquest, refused to join him. When he saw the
generous designs he had formed frustrated by private
interest, by pique, by jealousy, he returned witli spet-d
to the Maes. He returned; and fortune and victory
returned with him. Liege wa« relieved ; Huy retaken.
Tl« French, who Jwd pressed the army of the States
General with superior numbers, retired behind en-
trenchments which they deemed impregnable. The
duke forced these entrenchments, with inconsiderable
loss, on the seventh day of July, 1705. He defeated
a great part of the army which defended them.
The rest escaped by a precipitate retreat. If advan-
tages proportionable to this success were not imme-
diately obtained, let the failure be ascribed to that
misfortune which attends most confederacies, a division
of opinions where one alone should judge, a division of
powers where one alone should command. The disap-
pointment itself did honour to the Duke. Ii became
the wonder of mankind, how he could do so much
under those restraints which had hindered him from
doing more.
" rowers more absolute were given him afterwards.
The increase of his powers multiplied his victories. At
the opening of the next campaign, when all his army
was not yet assembled, when it was hardly known that
he had taken the field, the noise of his triumphs was-
lieard over Europe. On the twelfth day of May, one
thousand seven hundred and six, he attacked the
French at Ramillies. In the space of two hours their
whole army was put to flight. The vigour and con-
duct with which he improved the success were equal
to those with which he gained it. Louvain, Brussels,
Malines, Liere, Ghent,Oudenarde, Antwerp, Damme,
Bruges, Courtray, surrendered. Ostend, Menin, Den-
dermond, Aeth, were taken. Brabant and Flanders
were recovered. Places which had resisted the greatest
generals for months, for years ; provinces disputed for
ages were the conquests of a summer.
" Nor was the Duke content to triumph alone.
Solicitous for the general interest, his care extended
to the remotest scenes of the war, he chose to lessen
his own army, that he might enable the leaders of
other armies to conquer. To this must be ascribed,
that Turin was relieved, the Duke of Savoy rein-
stated, the French driven with confusion out of Italy.
" These victories gave the confederates an opportu-
nity of carrying the war on every side into the domi-
nions of France. But she continued to enjoy a kind
of peaceful neutrality in Germany. From Italy she
was once alarmed, and had no more to fear, The
entire reduction of this power, whose ambition had
ceased, whose strength supported the war, seemed
reserved to him alone, who had so triumphantly begun
the glorious work.
"The barrier of France on the side of the Low
Countries, had been forming for more than half a cen-
tury. What art, power, expence could do, had been
done, to render it impenetrable. Yet here she wa»
most exposed ; for here the Duke of Marlborough
threatened to attack her.
" To cover what they had gained by snrprise, or
had been yielded to them by treachery, the French
marched to the Banks ot the Schelde. At their head
were the Princes of the Blood, and their most fortu-
nate general the Duke of Vendome. Thus command-
ed, thus posted, they hoped to check the victor in his
course. Vain were their hopes. The Duke of Marl-
borough passed the river in their sight. He defeated
their whole army. The approach of the night con-
cealed, the proximity of Ghent favoured their flight.
They neglected nothing to repair their loss, to defend
their frontiers. New generals, new armies appeared
in the Netherlands. All contributed to enhance the
glory, none were able to reiard the progress, of the
Confederate Armies,
" Lisle, the bulwark of thi« barrier, was betleged,
A numerous garrison, and a marshal of France dcl«nd»
ed the place. Prince Eugene of Savoy commanded,
the Duk^ of Marlborough covered and sustained the
iiege. The rivers were seized, and the communication
with
OXFORDSHIRE.
with Holland interrupted. The Duke opened new
communications with great labour and greater art.
Through countries over-run by the enemy, the neces-
sary convoys arrived in safety. One alone was attack-
ed. The troops which attacked it were beat. The
defence of Lisle was animated by assurances of relief.
The French assembled all their force. They marched
towards the town. The Duke of Marlborough offered
them b.ittle, without suspending the siege. They
abandoned the enterprise. • They came to save the
town : they were spectators of its fall.
" From this conquest the Duke hastened to others.
" The posts taken by the enemy on the Schelde
were surprised. That river was passed the second time,
and, notwithstanding the great preparations made to
prevent it, without opposition. Brussels, besieged by
the Elector of Bavaria, was relieved. Ghent surren-
dered to the Duke in the middle of a winter remark-
ably severe. An army, little inferior to his own,
marched out of the place.
" As soon as the season of the year permitted him
to open another campaign, the Duke besieged and
took Tournay. He invested MODS. Near this city,
the French army, covered by thick woods, defended
by treble entrenchments, waited to molest, nor pre-
sumed to offer battle. Even this was not attempted
by them with impunity. On the last day of August,
one thousand seven hundred and nine, the Duke at-
tacked them in their camp. All was employed, nothing
availed against the resolution of such a general, against
the fury of such troops. The battle was bloody : the
event decisive. The woods were pierced : the fortifi-
cations trampled down. The enemy fled. The town
was taken.
" Doway, Bethune, Aire, St. Venant, Bouchain,
underwent the same fate in two succeeding years.
Their vigorous resistance could not save them. The
army of France durst not attempt to relieve them. It
seemed preserved to defend the capital of the monar-
chy.
" The prospect of this extreme distress was neither
distant nor dubious. The French acknowledged their
conqueror, and sued for peace.
" These are the actions of the DUKE of MASLBOROUGH,
Performed in the compass of a few Years,
Sufficient to adorn the Annals of Ages,
The Admiration of other Nations
Will be conveyed to latest Posterity,
In the Histories even of the Enemies of BKITAIN.
The Sense which the BRITISH Nation had
Ot his transcemlant Merit,
was expressed
In the most solemn, most elle dual, most durable manner.
The Acts of PARLIAMENT inscribed on this Pillar
Shall stand as long as the BRITISH Name and Language
last,
Illustrious monuments
Of MARLBOBOUGH'S Glory,
and
Of BRITAIN'S Gratitude."
At a short distance from the Home Lodge is a
handsome stone building, separated from the park
by iron |>a!isa<ic)i!.-. termed the China Gallery. It is
divided Into tive compartments, and was constructed
for the reception of a superb assortment of porce-
lain, collected by a Mr. Spalding, and presented by
him, as an appeudant to Blenheim. Many of the
specimens are unique ; and several gain a collateral
interest from having belonged to personage* of his-
torical repute, A room adjoining the entrance is
filled with specimens of Roman and old earthen-
ware.
The High Lodge, a venerable embattled building,
occupying a beautiful situation, was once the resi-
dence of the proflisjute Earl of Rochester.
A remarkable polysyllabical articulate echo, which,
in the day time, little wind being stirring, formerly
returned seventeen syllables, and in the night twenty,
is now much diminished in power.
At Stonesfield, 4| miles W. from Woodstock,
was discovered a tesselated pavement, in 1711 ;
and, about, and since the year 1813, further Roman
vestiges, consisting of an extensive villa, have been
discovered in this neighbourhood. Correct drawing*
of these remains were taken by Henry Hakewill,
Esq.
At Yarnton, 4J miles N. W. by N. from Oxford,
the Spencer family was settled soon after the Disso-
lution. They constructed a mansion-house, near
the church, in which they long resided in a style of
extraordinary hospitality. The tower, at the west
end of the church, was erected at their entire ex-
pence, in 1612.— In a chapel on the south side of
the chance], built by Sir Thomas Spencer, Bart, is
an alabaster monument for Sir William Spencer,
of Althorp, in Northamptonshire, Knt. who died
in 1009, and Margaret his wife, who died in 1608.
It bears the effigies of a man armed, and lying on
his back, with his helmet and crest under his head,
and gauntlets at his feet. On his left side is the
figure of his lady, in the same posture. Here are
many other monuments of the same family.— Sir
Thomas Spencer left ten pounds a year : three
pounds to the vicar of Yarnton, on condition that
he shall every year, on the birth-day of Sir Thomas,
and on the recurrence of the day on \\Iiu-h his wife
died, read the morning service, as directed in the
Liturgy, in his chapel ; the remainder to be distri-
buted among the poor.
In a wood near Wolvercote, 2| miles N.N.W.
from Oxford, Memphric, the supposed founder of
that cily, according to the fabulous legends of early
writers, was destroyed by wolves, while hunting.
Proceeding to the banks of the Isis, two miles
from Oxford, we find the remains of Godstow Nun-
nery, which was erected on ground given by John
de St. John, towards the end of the reign of Henry I.
by Editha, or Ida, a lady of Winchester, the widow
of Sir William Lnuncelne. Dame Editha became
the first abbess of the foundation ; and by her was
built the church, a structure dedicated to the Virgin
Mary and St. John the Baptist in 1188, by Alexan-
der, Bishop of Lincoln, "in the presence," says the
author of the Monasticon, " of King Stephen, and
Maud, the Queen, with abundance of nobility." At
the Dissolution, the nunnery was valued at274/. per
annum. A considerable portion of the habitable
buildings remained till the civil war in the reign of
Charles, when it was for a time occupied by Royal-
ists, and was afterwards destroyed by fire. In this
nunnery was placed, as a boarder, for the purpose
of
1-24
OXFORDSHIRE.
of receiving education, Rosamond, the daughter of
Walter Lord Clifford. The females of this religious
house were allowed considerable licence, and were
even permitted to spend one day in Godstow Fair ;
lairs, or wakes, however, at that 'period, were united
with pious ceremonials. Godstow, itself, fertile in
means of innocent relaxation, had numerous em-
bowered recesses and inviting walks ; and to prevent
the possibility of these becoming tedious through re-
petition,the fail-devotees were allowed to visit several
neighbouring places. One of their favourite spots was
MeTHey, a spacious secluded mansion, on the border
of the river, between Godstow and Oxford. Much
mirth is said to have passed during their visits.
Medley, though -not a religious house, possessed an j
oratory, or chapel ; and the nuns, we are told, "had i
their private devotions in some rooms set apart for
them, if accident caused them to stay longer than
ordinary." Binsey was also frequently favoured
with their visits. It is supposed that Henry first
saw Rosamond in 1149. She was then not more
than fifteen years of age; and the prince Was very
young. An impenetrable cloud of doubt, indeed,
involves the whole affair ; but it seems probable that
Rosamond retired from the society of her royal
seducer soon after he brought his queen to England ;
and there are reasons for supposing that she returned
to the nunnery in which her happiest days had pass-
ed, and lived there, in penitence and seclusion, for
several years. Her body was interred by her parents
before the high-altar at Godstow, and a costly monu-
ment was erected, round which lights were directed
to be kept continually burning. On the monument
the following quaint epitaph is said to have been in-
scribed :
Hie jacet in Tumba rosa Muncli, non rosa Munda,
Non Kcclolet, seii olet, qua: redolere solet.
Stowe informs us, that "Hugh, Bishop of Lin- i
coin, came, A. I). 1191, to the Abbey of the Nunnes,
and when he had entered the Church to pray, he
saw a tombe in the Middle of the Quire, covcr?d
with a Pall of Silke, and set about with Lights of
VVaxe. And demanding whose Tombe it was, he
was answered that 'it was the Tombe of Rosamond, '
sometime Lemman to Henry II. who, for the love of
her, had done much good to that Church.' ' Then,'
quoth the Bishop, ' take out of this place the Harlot,
and bury tier without the Church." - When the moul-
dering body of Rosamond was removed by order of
this politic bishop, it was placed according to Ilig-
den, in the Nuns' Chapter House, a building be-
lieved still to be remaining. At the Reformation
her bones were taken up, and her tomb was destroyed.
Mr. Allen, of Gloucester Hall, describes this tomb j
as "having on it interchangeable weavmgs, drawn !
out and decked with roses, red and green, and the '
picture ot the cup out of which she drank the poison
given her by the queen, carved in the stone." Gough,
however, says, " I confess myself strongly inclined
to believe this was intended for a cross-fleuri, such
as was frequent on the coffin-lids of ecclesiastics ;
and the cup for a chalice, as often found thereon."
Leland mentions " Rosamunde's Tumbe, at God-
stowe Nunnery, taken up alate," as a stone, with
this inscription, Tumba Rosamundre ; and says that
" Her Bones were closid in Lead, and within that the
Bones were closed in Letter (Leather :) when it Was
opened aswete smell came out of it." — Rosamond had
two sons by King Henry — Richard Longespee,-and
Geoffery Plantagenet, Archbishop of York. — The
remains of Godstow Nunnery chiefly consist of
ranges of wall on the north, south, and east sides
of an extensive area ; and a small building at one
angle. A part of the church tower, which was
standing till within these two years, was taken down
by order of the Earl of Abingdon, and his lordship
used the materials in aid of a new church, which
he has built in the neighbouring parish of William.
The small building which abuts on the east, and
ranges along the southern side, was probably the
chapter-house of the nuns. The walls are entire.
The roof is of wood ; and some of the rafter- work
is yet in descent preservation. In this building, the
remains of Rosamond are believed to have been
placed, when they were removed from the choir of
the church.
At the little village of Binsey, a short distance
from Oxford, Frideswide constructed a church, with
watlyn and rough-hewn timber, to the honour of
St. Margaret, about the year 730. Taking great
delight in the solitary shades and ""privacy of this
neighbourhood, she not only built the church, but
several other edifices, that she, and her sisters, tha
nuns who lived with her in Oxford, might retire in
times of distraction in the city. Biusey continued a
cell, or place of retirement for the nuns, in succeed-
ing ages. — The present church, an ancient brick
building, without spire or tower, stands considera-
bly remote from the village. At the west end was
the noted well of St. Margaret, to which crowds of
votaries came in pilgrimage. Several priests dwelt
here, to confess and absolve the devotees; and it is
said that Seek worth, on the opposite side of the
river, of which few traces remain, contained twenty-
four inns for the reception of these travellers. Over
the well was a covering of stone ; and, on the front,
the picture of St. Frideswide, pulled down in 1639.
At Ensham, 4| miles E. by S. from Witney, the
scenery is rural, attractive, and picturesque. The
approach from Oxford is over two stone bridges,
the first of which is a handsome structure, built by
the Earl of Abingdon, across the Isis. The church
is a hanusome Gothic edifice; and, between, that
building and a well-endowed school-house is a cross,
with a beautiful taper shaft.— This was a place of
considerable consequence in the early periods of our
history. An abbey was founded here by Ethe-lmar,
Earl of Cornwall, in the reign of King Ethelred ;
and, some time subsequent to the Conquest, the
monastery of Stow, near Lincoln, was founded and
endowed byGodiva, wife of Leolritk, Earl-of Ches-
ter,
OXFORDSHIRE.
125
ter, was annexed to Eynsliam abbey, as a cell.
Antliony Kitchen, the last abbot, surrendered the
abbey in 1539, upon the promise of an allowance of
135/. 6s. Sd. per annum. He was soon afterwards
promoted to the bishopric of Llandaff. After the
Dissolution, the abbey site became the property of
the Earls of Derby. The only remains of the build-
ing are two windows, now used as doorways ; one of
which is in the vicarage garden. This is adorned
with a coat of arms, and marked with the date 1300.
The monk of Eynsham had a market, allowed by
King Stephen to be held in the village, " on every
Lord's day." — There was a curious " ancient cus-
tom of the royalty of Eynsham, where it was formerly
allowed to the towns-people, on Whit-Monday, to
cut down, and bring away, wherever the church-
wardens pleased to mark it out by giving the first
chop, as much timber as could be drawn by men's
hands into the abbey yard; whence if they could
draw it out again, notwithstanding all the impedi-
ments which could be given the cart by the servants
of the abbey, (and, since that, by the family of the
lord,) it was then their own, and went, in part at
least, to the reparation of their church." This cus-
tom remained in force till the latter part of the 17th
century. — The school, founded by John Bartholo-
mew, is endowed for the instruction of twelve poor
boys.
The manor of Stanton Harcourt, 4| miles S. E.
from Witney, has been in the possession of the liar-
court family upwards of six centuries ; having been
granted by Adeliza, the second Queen of Henry I.
to her kinswoman, Milicent, wife of Richard de
Camvil, whose daughter Isabel married Robert de
Harcourt*. — The family of Harcourt resided chiefly
on this manor till the latter part of the seventeenth
century, and some curious fragments of a mansion
constructed by them at an early period still exist.
These consist of the porter's lodge, the kitchen,
with some few adjoining rooms ; and the domestic
chapel. The porter's lodge, the most modern part,
was erected by Sir Simon Harcourt, who died in 1547.
The kitchen is on a construction of which we have
only one other example in England ; the kitchen for-
merly appertaining to the abbey of Glastonbury.
The walls are three feet thick. " Below," says Plot,
" the room is nothing but a large square, and octan-
gular above, ascending like a tower ; the fires being
made against the walls, and the smoke climbing up
them, without any tunnels, or disturbance to the
cooks ; which, being stopped by a large conical roof
at the top, goes out at loop-holes, on every side, ac-
* The estate was held nf the Crown by the following service;
" The Lord of Stanton Harcourt must 6nd four browsers in
Woodstock park, in winter time, when the snow shall happen to
fall, and larrye for the space of two days ; ami so to lind llie
said browsers there browsing, so long as the snow dcth lye ;
every browser to have to his lodging every night, one billet of
wood, the length of his axe helve, and that to carry to his lodg-
ing upon the edge of hU axe. And the king's bailitT of the
demesnes, or the hundred of Woottou, coming to give warning
VOL. IV. — NO. 150.
cording as the wind sets; the loop-holes at the side
next the wind being shut with falling doors, and the
adverse side open. Thus one may truly call it either
a kitchen within a chimney, or a kitchen without
one." The date at which this building was erected
is not known ; but it is supposed to have been re-
paired about the reign of Henry IV. The height of
the walls to the bottom of the roof is 39 feet; and
the roof rises 25 feet in the centre. — The principal
apartments stood between the kitchen and the do-
mestic chapel. One-of these was called the Queen's
Chamber, from Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia, who
was entertained in this mansion. Sir Philip Har-
court was the last of the family who resided at
Stanton Ilarcourt ; and his widow disposed of the
furniture, in 1688, and suffered the buildings to de-
cay.— The domestic chapel, with a chamber over
part of it, and a tower, containing three apartmenfs
one above the other, each thirteen feet square, are
likely to endure many years. The upper room in
the tower retains the name of Pope's Study ; that
poet having passed a part of two summers here,
while translating Homer. — The Church is a spacious
and handsome building, of the cruciform character.
The principal entrance is by a round-headed arch ;
on one side of which is a small stone receptacle for
holy water. At a small distance is another door,
used by the women only ; as, from a custom of im-
memorial standing, they never pass through the same
entrance with the men. — This church contains seve-
ral ancient brasses ; and, under an arch, in the south
wall of the chancel, is the tomb of Maud, daughter
of John Lord Grey of Rotherfield, wife of Sir
Thomas de Harcourt, who died in the 17th of Rich-
ard II. Annexed to the south wall of the chancel
is the burial-chapel of the Harcourt family, an orna-
mented Gothic building, probably of the time of
Edward IV. It contains many interesting monu-
ments.—On the outside of the south wall is a tablet
to the memory of John Hewit, and Sarah Drew,
who were killed by lightning on the last day of July]
1718. These rustic lovers have been immortalized
by the pens of Pope and Gay.
In the vicinity of this village are three large monu-
mental stones, known by the name of the Devil's
Coils. They are supposed to commemorate a buttle
fought near Hampton, between the British and the
Saxons, in 6U; on which occasion the Saxon princes,
Cynegila and Cwhicelon slew a great number of the
British.
Coggcs, 1| mile S. E. by E. from Witney, was
the head of the Barony of Arsic. The Arsic family
for the said browser,, shall blow his horn at the gate of the ruan-
nor pf Stanton Harcourt, and then the said bailiff to have a
caste of bread, a gallon of ale, and a piece of beet, of the said
lord ; and the said loid, or other for the time being, to have of
custom yearly out of the said parke, one burk in summer, snd
one doe in winter." The lord of Sianton Harcourt was like-
wise to make, rear, and carry the prass growing in a ceitain
meadow within the park of Woodstock.
•2 i
flourished
120
OXFORDSHIRE.
flourished here for several ages ; and Manassar, one
of the lords of that house, founded an alien priory of
blaik monks, which was dissolved, among other
similar foundations, in the reign of Henry V. In
the reign of James I. William Pope, Earl of Downe,
built a mansion on the site of the Priory ; some part
of which, now remaining, a little eastward of the
church, is occupied as a farm-house. — The Church,
an humble Gothic building, is supposed to have been
raised by the Greys of Rotherfield.
Ditchley, the seat of Lord Dillon, is five miles
N. W. from Woodstock. Ahout the reign of James I.
the family of Lee acquired possession of this estate.
Sir F. H. Lee, the second Baronet of the family,
died here, about 16JI1 ; and Anne, his widow, married
Henry Wilmot, Viscount Athlone, and Earl of Ro-
chester, the celebrated loyalist. At this seat was
born his son, the witty earl, who died at the High
Lodge in Woodstock Park. The mansion was re-
built by the elder brother to the last earl. It was
recently occupied by the Earl of Ormond and Ossory.
The architect was Gibbs. The house is entered by
a moderate flight of stone steps, with a balustrade,
and large vases on each side. The body of the
structure is weighty ; with many vases, and two
statues, on the coping. On each side is a massy
square wing.
The hall of entrance is a fine and spacious room,
embellished with great labour and expence. The
ceiling is painted by Kent, with representations of
the heathen gods and goddesses ; and, worked into
the costly compartments of the sides, are Venus
giving the arms to yEneas, and Venus meeting
JEneas in the Wood. Over the chimney is a por-
trait of Henry, second Earl of Litchfield, by Aker-
inan. Even the settees in this room of entrance are
richly carved and gilt ; and the whole suite of prin-
cipal rooms is highly ornamented. — In the break-
fast room, are Rubens, and his wife and son, hunting,
the figures by Rubens, the animals by Scheighers ;
a shooting piece, in which is introduced the late
EarJ of Litchfield, by Wootton ; two full length
portraits of ladies, by Paul Veronese. — In the
dining-room, which is wainscotted, are Charles I.
by Vandyke ; the prince of Wales (Charles II.) a
child in petticoats by his knee; Henry VIII. whole
length, supposed by Holbein; Mrs Lucy Waters,
with the Duke of Monmouth, an unattired infant ;
Sir Christopher Hatton, by Cornelius Ketel ; Sir
Henry Lee, with the dog that saved his life, by John
son*. — The green paper drawing-room has a chim-
ney-piece of finely variegated marble. Among the
paintings are portraits of Admiral Lee, brother to
the second Earl of Litchfield ; and of the Duchess
of Cleveland. In this room is a handsome lar<re
* The story connected with this piece is thus related : — " A
servant had formed a design to rob the house, and to murder
his master. But, on the night this project was intended to be
put in execution, the dopr, though no favourite, nor indeed ever
before, taken notice of by his master, accompanied him up stairs,
China bowl, presented by Charles II. to the first
Countess of Litchfield. — The tapestry drawing-
room, of moderate, but pleasing proportions, pos-
sesses an attractive air. Two sides are covered with
tapestry, representing a vintage ; and Apollo, the
Muses, and the Gods and Goddesses sitting at table.
Among the portraits are, Sir Francis Lee, by Van-
dyke ; Lady Rochester, by Sir Peter Lely ; Sir
Henry Lee, in the robes of the garter ; a full length,
by Johnson. — The ceiling and sides of the saloon
are ornamented with stucco work. Here are two
modern busts, with an antique statue of Hygeia. — •
In the green damask drawing-room, a landscape, by
Wootton, is worked into the ornaments which sur-
mount the beautiful chimney-piece of statuary mar-
ble. Here are, a Sleeping Venus and Painter, by
Titian; the Angel Gabriel, by Guido ; and Sir Fran-
cis Drake. — The great drawing-room, about 37 feet
in length, by 26 in width, has its ceiling and sides
abundantly decorated with carving and gilding, on
a white ground ; the furniture and curtains crimson.
A landscape, by Wootton, is inserted in the orna-
ments above the chimney-piece; and here are some
fine whole-length Portraits, by Sir Peter Lely: —
Charles II. sitting in a chair of state, with his crown
and sceptre on a table ; the Duchess of Cleveland ;
Charlotte Fitzroy, first Countess of Litchfield, and
second daughter of Charles II. by the Duchess of
Cleveland; the Duke of Grafton, brother to Lady
Charlotte Fitzroy. — In the velvet bed-chamber, the
hangings are of Genoa velvet, brought to England
by Admiral Lee. Their basis is green satin, on which
is arranged raised velvet work of crimson and green.
The bed-furniture is of velvet, to match the hang-
ings.— The Chinese drawing - room is hung with
tapestry, of better execution than that before noticed ;
representing Venus ordering the armour of JEneas ;
Neptune giving directions for the first ship that was
built, &c. Over the chimney is a fine group of the
Duke and Duchess of York, with the princesses Mary
and Anne, by Sir Peter Lely. — Here are two chapels,
a Protestant and a Catholic. The latter is closed \
the former is a neat building, with an altar-piece, by
Poussin, of the Descent from the Cross.
Ditchley Park is large, and well sprinkled with
timber.
About a mile from the park, is Kiddington, anci-
ently written Cudenton, or the Town among the
Woods. This village is pleasantly situated on the-
Glyme, which divides it into two districts, Over and
Nether Kiddington, or the Upper and LowerTown.
— The manor-house was chiefly built, or repaired,
by Sir Henry Browne, in 1673, on the foundations
of an old seat, to which appertained a walled park.
It is situated on a gentle rise, and is pleasantly orna-
crept under the bed, and could not be driven away by the at"
tendant ; when at length, Sir Henry ordered him to be left ; and,
in the dead ot night, the treacherous servant, entering the room
to execute his design, was instantly seized by the dog,, and, on
being secured, confessed his intention."
mented
OXFORDSHIRE.
127
ittented with wood and water. Many valuable family
portraits, by eminent masters in the reigns of Mary,
Elizabeth, James, ami Charles I. are preserved in
different apartments. In the garden is the font in
which it is said King Edward the Confessor was
baptized at Islip. The block of stone, in which the
basin of immersion is excavated, is of an octangular
shape ; and the outside is adorned by tracery work.
The interior diameter of the basin is thirty inches,
and the depth twenty. The whole, with the pedes-
tal, which is of a piece with the rest, is five feet high,
and bears the following imperfect inscription :
This sacred Font Saint Edward first receavd.
From Womb to Grace, from Grace to Glory went
His virtuous Life. To this fayre Isle beqveth'd.
Praise .... and to vs but lent.
Let tills remaine, the Trophies of his Fame,
A King baptiz'd from hence a Saint became.
******
This Fonte came from the King's Chapell
in Islip.
Kiddington Church, situated in the Lower town,
consists principally of one aisle and a chancel ; but,
on the south, is a lateral projection, or semi-tran-
sept, probably intended only ior a sepulchral aisle to
cover a family vault. Within its southern wall are
two niches for holy water. The fabric is ceiled with
rafter-work. The body of the church appears to
have been built about the year 1400. The chancel
is evidently the remains of an older church, supposed
to have been built about the time of Stephen. At
the west end, coeval with the body of the church,
is a low square tower, containing three large bells,
and a sanctus or saint's bell. — In the Upper Town
is the ruin of the old parochial cross. — Neai- Upper
Kiddington runs an ancient way, from which the
neighbouring hamlet of Ditchley derives it name. —
At the distance of half a mile from the same part of
the village is a single farm-house, termed Asterley,
which was once a parish ; and in a field, called
Chapel-Breke, have been turned up pieces of the
mouldings of lancet-windows, and other fragments
of ancient masonry.
At Glympton, four miles N. by W. from Wood-
stock, Mrs. Wheate has a pleasant residence. In
the chancel of the church is a raised monument of
stone ; and, under the portraiture on a brass plate
of a man in a gown, is an inscription to the memory
of Thomas Tesdale, who was liberally beneficial to
Baliol College, Oxford.
Heythorp, the seat of the Earl of Shrewsbury, is
three miles E. by N. from Chipping Norton. Ad-
joining the park, is Heythorp Church, a small but
venerable building. On the south is a Saxon, or
early Norman, doorway. The church has no tower ;
but on,- bell is placed at the west end, in an humble
turret. — The mansion is approached by a noble ave-
nue of trees, more than a mile in length. The house,
built bv Archer, is a fine and attractive specimen of
the decorated style. The graud, or northern front,
has a central portico of entrance, adorped by four
lofty Corinthian columns. On each side is a hand-
some and spacious wing, joined to the main division
of the building by tasteful ranges of masonry. The
south front has a flight of stone steps, with two
ascents ; and each lateral portion of the same front
is embellished with columns. A balustrade of stone
ranges along the top of the whole structure. —The
hall is lofty. The floor is of black and white mar-
ble ; the sides painted in blue pannels, with stucco
ornaments. The library is 83 feet in length, and 20
in height. The sides are ornamented with fine stucco
work. Over the recesses intended for book-cases
are medallions of Homer, Plato, Thucydides, Cicero,
Shakespeare, an'd In igo Jones. The compartments
above the entrances are embellished with stucco
work, illustrative of some of the Fables of ^Esop.
There are, likewise, many pendant ornaments, in
alto relievo, of military, musical, and mathematical
instruments, with interspersed fruit and flowers. —
The drawing-room, 47 feet in length, by 25 in-
breadth, is hung with tapestry, representing the
four quarters of the world, by Vanderburgh. Over
the four doors are masterly pieces, in claro obscuro,-
descriptive of the seasons and elements. The chim-
ney piece, of statuary and Egyptian marble, is emi-
nently beautiful. The cornice of the room is sup-
ported by figures of Ceres and Flora, about five
feet high. The ceiling is ornamented with stucco
work, representing the four quarters of the globe,
with the elements and seasons ; the whole surround-
ed by a Corinthian entablature. Over the chimney
is a painting of the Destruction of Pharaoh and his
Host, in the Red Sea, by Van Orley. — The small
drawing-room is also ornamented with fine stucco-
work.
The pleasure grounds are extensive, and finely
adorned with wood and water ; and, in the gardens
is a conservatory, 248 feet in length.— A chapel of
some extent was lately erected, near the house.
Great Tew, 3| miles N.N. E. from Neat Enstow,
was long vested in the family of Raynsford, now of
Northamptonshire; and the manor was lately in the
possession of George Stratton, Esq. by whom the
ancient seat has been demolished, and the park let
for the feeding of cattle. Mr. Stratton, some years
ago, threw many moderate farms into two, which
were placed under the opposite agricultural systems
of Scotland and Ireland. " For one of the specu-
lators he raised an immense stack of buildings,
which occupy three sides of a square, and contain,
besides usual and unusal farm -buildings, a farriery,
and various other accommodations. To render the
system of experiment complete at every point, this
extensive range was covered with paper, manufac-
tured at Eynsham Mill ; but the paper was not found
to answer so well as slate !"
Great Tew Church is a handsome pile, chiefly
Gothic. — In the chancel are many old brasses, among-
which is one containing the effigies of a man in vohes,
seated before a large crucifix.. This is the effigi s of
William
128
OXFORDSHIRE.
William Raynsford, once lord of the manor. Inarch-
ed on one side of the manorial chapel are two figure.5,
carved in stone ; the one, that of a cross-legged
knight, resting on a lion, a shield on his arm, and a
hand on the hilt of his sword ; the other, the effigies
of a lady, her feet resting on a bull-dog of the true
English breed, in the action of springing forward
4o defend her.
A branch of one of the minor Roman roads is
supposed to have run near this village. The Romans
certainly resided some time in the neighbourhood ;
various relics of that people having at different times
been discovered.
Barford St. Michael, or Great Barford, is 2|
miles VV. N. W. from Deddington. The church is
supposed to have been constructed about the time of
Henry III. The pulpit appears formerly to have
been of stone. The base still remains ; and, fixed
to the adjoining pillar, is an iron frame, in which
was anciently contained the sand glass that regulated
the length of the sermon.
The market town of Deddington, near the North-
amptonshire edge of the county, is 17 miles N. by W.
from Oxford, and 68| N. W. from London. The
manor now constitutes three properties ; belonging
to the dean and canons of Windsor, the dean and
chapter of Christ Church, Oxford, and William
Ralph Cartwright, Esq. Each appoints a steward,
who holds a court baron. The court leet is held by
them jointly. — The town is small, and has no staple
manufacture. The houses, composed of the ordi-
nary stone produced in the neighbourhood, are in
general on a contracted scale. The Oxford Canal
comes within two miles of the town. Dr. Plot
found that ancient game the Quintain much prac-
ticed here. " In running at the Quintain," says he,
" they first set a post perpendicularly in the ground,
and then .place a slender piece of timber on the top
of it, on a spindle, with a board nailed to it on one
end, and a bag of sand hanging at the other. Against
this board they anciently roade with spears ; now,
as I saw it at Deddington, only with strong staves,
which violently bringing about the bag of sand, if
they make not good speed away it strikes them in
the neck or shoulders, and sometimes knocks them
from their horses ; the great design of the sport
being to try the agility both of man and horse, and
to break the hoard." — This exercise was practised
by the Romans, and Kennet observes that he never
met with it at any place which was not in the former
neighbourhood of Roman settlements. — The sport
is now disused, and the oldest man in the town does
not remember to have heard his father mention the
custom in any other than a traditional way.
At a short distance from the church, is a square
and lofty domestic building of considerable antiquity,
with an open balustrade of stone at the top. The
rooms are spacious, and the staircase is somewhat
rudely, yet laboriously, carved. One of the upper
apartments is said to have been used as a Catholic
oratory. The building belongs to the lay impro-
prietor, and is tenanted by a farmer. — There was
pulled down, a few years ago, an extensive build-
ing, which Gough mentions as an old inn, chiefly of
stone, for Pilgrims.
This town possessed a castle, which was probably a
structure of much strength and consequence ; but no
part of the building is now remaining. A wide fosse
went completely round, and is still distinctly marked
through its whole progress. The period at which
the castle was erected cannot be ascertained.
This town has one church, a handsome Gothic
building, with a tower at the west end, with eight
jagged pinnacles. In the chancel are three stone
recesses, used by the priest and deacons during the
performance of high mass. Nearer to the altar is
the piscina. Here are some ancient brasses, and
many stones from which the brass is gone. In the
north aisle, is'an altar-tomb of grey stone, surmount- .
ed by a mural tablet, on which is a mutilated brass.
Inarched in the south aisle is the stone effigies of
a female, the hands in a devotional posture. The
robes plaited. The spring of the arch beneath which
this monument is placed has steps formed in it, which
ascend to a considerable height. — Sir Thomas Pope,
a native of Deddington, founded a free-school here.
— Deddington was formerly a corporate town, and
sent two burgesses to parliament, but was relieved
from this duty, by petition. The town is nominally
governed by a bailiff, but this officer is chosen by
the persons holding the lordship of the manor, and
has hitherto not been accustomed to exercise any
jurisdiction in the town.
At Duns Tew, 2| miles S.S.W. from Dedding-
ton, in the year 1050, Anne Green, servant to Sir
Thomas Read, was convicted of the murder of her
illegitimate child, and hanged in the castle yard at
Oxford, for about half an hour. She was "pulled
by the legs, and struck on the breast, (as she desired,)
and, after all, had several strokes given her on the
stomach with the but-end of a soldier's musket."
When Sir William Petty, however, then anatomy
professor of the university, and other gentlemen,
were about to prepare the body for dissection, they
perceived symptoms ot'life ; and, on using means for
her recovery, " in fourteen hours she began to speak,
and the next day talked and prayed very heartily."
She afterwards " married," and hail several children.
At North Aston, V2| miles S. E. by S. from Ded-
dington, is the residence of C. O. Bowles, Esq.
At Steeple Aston, four miles S. by E. from Ded-
dington, Dr. Samuel Raddiffe, principal of Brascn
Nose College, Oxford, and rector of this church,
founded a free-school in 1640, and endowed with
ten pounds per annum. He died in 1648, and lies
buried in the church. He also endowed an alms-
house for poor women, in this parish. A tessellated
pavement was ploughed up in the 17th century.
At Ronsham, five miles N. E. by N. from Wood-
stock, is the residence of Lady Cottrel.
At Tackley, three miles N. E. from Woodstock,
Lady Gardiner has a handsome scat.
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131
RUTLANDSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.
RUTLANDSHIRE, the smallest connty in
England, is bounded, on the north, by Lei-
cestershire and Lincolnshire; on the east, by Lin-
colnshire and Northamptonshire, and on the south
and west, by Northamptonshire and Leicestershire.
It is about eighteen miles in length from north to
south ; fifteen in breadth from east to west ; and in
circumference nearly sixty ; giving an area of two
hundred square statute miles, or one hundred and
twenty-eight thousand acres. This was the estimate
delivered in to the House of Commons a few years
ago ; but Parkinson, the agricultural writer, states
the superficial contents of the county at only ninety-
one thousand and two acres.
The face of the county, generally speaking, is
•very beautiful, especially where it is well timbered.
It U much diversified by small, and gently rising
hills, running east and west, intersected by valleys
of about half a mile in breadth ; so that, in travelling,
new and varied views are constantly presenting
themselves. Near Burleigh Hill, however, there is
a dead flat, extending all over the northern part of
the county, and forming a sort of table land, which
looks down upon the fertile, and well-wooded plains
of Lincolnshire, Nottinghamshire, and Leicester-
shire. On the western border the remains of the
old forest of Liefield are well-wooded, and sink in
the distance into the Leicestershire plains. The
southern district consists chiefly of one very exten-
sive valley, stretching into Northamptonshire ; and
the eastern part of the county is finely diversified.
The climate has always been considered very mild,
pleasant, and salubrious.
WOODLANDS.] — The woods of Rutlandshire are
supposed to have been formerly much more extensive
than at present ; and it has been conjectured, with
considerable probability, that, where Oakham, the
county town, is now situated, oaks once grew ;
even that the whole vale of Catraose, near the centre
of the county, was an extensive tract of woodland.
It has, indeed, been well ascertained, that the forest
of Leafield, or Lyfield, once occupied the chief part
of Oakham hundred ; and that Beaumont Chase for-
merly extended into Martinsley hundred, having
several towns, now destroyed, within its purlieus.
This forest is thought to have taken its name from,
the manor of Lee, or Leigh, which is near its cen-
tre ; but this is probably incorrect. Several of the
towns in its vicinity, as well as those within its
immediate limits, still claim certain forest rights.
The rangership of the forest has many years been
vested in the Noel family. Parkinson describes the
forest and parish of Leafield as possessing a rich
and fertile soil ; in proof of which it may be men-
tioned, that a great portion of the rich cheese gene-
rally termed Stilton cheese, is actually made in this
dictrict, and in the vale of Catmose.
PLANTS.] — The rare plants of this county, which
are small in number, will be found enumerated in
the note below*.
MINERALS, &c.] — There are no minerals of im-
portance in this county ; but, at Ketton, a stone
very valuable for architectural purposes, is found.
I There are also two sorts of stone which are used
lor making of lime. Thes* stones, which are found,
in the various degrees of tenacity, from that of mere
Atropa
Belladonna. Deadly Nightshade, or Dwale: in
hedges and among rubbish ; about North Luf-
fenham.
Diptacm pilotus. Small WildTeasel, or Shepherd's RoJ ; in
a lane near Edith Weston.
IMIITU percnne. Perennial Blue Flax; on each side of the
North road between Stamford and Tickt-ncote,
and in the stony fields adjacent, very plentifully.
Melampyntm crystaiurn. Crested Cow-wheat ; in a stony lane
between Tolletliorpe ar.d Klival!, and among
the wood* near Strettoo.
alba. Wliite Witer lily ; in the Welland, near
Tixover, and in some pits in Tinwell mea-
dows.
ParnastM palusiris. Grass of Parnassus; on a 005 between
N ormaiiton and Empiogham, in great abund-
ai.ce, in the field and inclusures between North
Luffingiiaiii and Edith \\ e>ton, among springs,
and in a marshy meadow belo\v Manton.
Pingidcula vu/garit. Buiterwort' or Yorkshire Saiiicle ; on a
bog near North Luffenham.
Pobjtrici*m commune. Great Golden Maidenhair; on spungy
ground, among springs, near PiUo. .
Sambucui ebuiui. Dwarf Elder, or Danewort ; in an inclosure
at the Ea-t ead of North Lui7er.in.ii.
indurated
132
RUTLANDSHIRE.
indurated clay to (he consistence of marble, contain
various marine substances.
MEDICINAL SPRINGS.] — The chalybeate springs,
in various parts of this county, are numerous.
One, of unusual strength, between Teigh, and
Market Overtoil, was formerly much resorted to.
In a pioce of marshy ground, near Normanton, is
also one of very strong impregnation ; and there are
several others at North Luffenham, Lyndon, Ham-
bleton, and Martinsthorpe.
RIVERS.] — Rutlandshire is well watered for agri-
cultural purposes, but it has only two rivers of note,
the Guash, shortened into Wash, and the Welland :
the former, which crosses the county from west to
east, and divides it into nearly two equal parts, rises
in Leicestershire. It has generally a full stream, and
a rapid fall. The Welland also rises in Leicester-
shire, and touches first upon this county in the vici-
nity ot'Caldecot, whence it proceeds, in a meandering
course, towards the north-east, and running past
Stamford, in Lincolnshire, it crosses the fens in that
county, and falls into the Foss Dyke.— Another
small stream, called the Chater, crosses the county
some miles to the southward of the Guash ; and the
Little Eye, or Lytelee, forms the boundary between
the south-west district of Rutlandshire and Leices-
tershire. The latter is frequently subject to floods.
There are some other small streams or rivulets of
little note.
CANALS.] — This county enjoys a partial benefit
from the improved navigation of the Welland ; but,
strictly speaking, it has only one canal — that of
Oakham. This branch commences in the neigh-
bourhood of Melton Mowhray, in Leicestershire?,
enters Rutlandshire at Teigh, and passes by Market
Overtoil, Barrow, Catmose, .and Bnrleigh. Until
it approaches Oakham, on its north side in the level
of the yale of Catmose, its course is about south-
east, for about fifteen miles. Its first moiety has a
regular rise of one hundred and twenty-six feet
perpendicular ; but after entering this county its
course is on a level. The expence of the Rutland-
shire part of the canal, which was completed in the
year 1803, was 86,000/. raised in shares of ICO/,
each. The principal objects of this navigation are
the supply of timber and coal, and the transport of
agricultural produce. — In dry summers, it is in great
want of water, though it has a reservoir on its west-
ern side, near Langham.
ROADS.] — The roads throughout this county,
though of bad construction, are generally kept in
tolerably good order. The error, in repairing them,
seems to consist in laying down large blocks of stone
in an unbroken state.
Son., AGRICULTURE, &c.] — The soil consists, in
general, of red land, good clay, poor clay, gravelly
clay, black clay, white stony land, and hazel earth.
The reil colour and ochrey property of the land are
by no means so general as have been represented.
The lands about Glaiston, and in the vale of Cat-
mose, are most distinguished in this respect. flJr.
Parkinson states, that the east and south-east parts
are of a shallow staple upon lime-stone rock, with a
small mixture of cold wood land and a clay soil ;
whilst the other parts of the county are composed
of a strong loam, to which the vale ol Catmose is in
some measure an exception, consisting1 of good clay
and red loam. The modem system of agriculture
too is assisted in ttiis county, from the circumstance
of its varying so much in its different kinds of soil
at small distances, causing each soil to be much more
valuable than it could he, if one kind only were
spread through each lordship. According to Par-
kinson's statement, the pasture lands are equal to
34,861 acres; the meadow, 9,356; arable, 42,536;
cdrnmon, 693 ; waste, 30 ; plantations, 65 ; woods,
2,815 ; and the water, 44.
The produce is considerable ; of barley in parti-
cular, and of a superior quality.
The modes of agriculture differ in some degree,
not only on the different soils, but on those lauds
which are open or enclosed. The old course of two
crops and a fallow is yet followed upon the unin-
closed arable lands ; except upon some of the light
soils, where turnips, to be fed off upon the ground
by sheep, are raised upon the fallows. In the ensuing
season the dead fallows are sowed with wheat, and
the latter with barley. The second crops on the light
soils consist generally of peas alone : but on the
clays there is an intermixture of peas and beans.
Some of the farmers, however, have adopted the
custom of sowing barley and broad clover after
their fallows, mowing the clover for a second year's
crop, and feeding it off with sheep during the fallow
year, when it is considered as proper for a course
of wheat,' &c. Hoeing is not used upon the open
lands, except with respect to turnips ; consequently
the crops, particularly on light lands, are not so clear
as they ought to he in good husbandry. — The in-
closed lands are mostly the light sorts of limestona
bases, and red loam. These are principally under
the Norfolk mode of husbandry. Parkinson states,
that the expences on three acres of qj)en field-laud
in one year, according to the method still practised
where there are no inclosures, amount to 15/. 19*. Qd.
whilst the produce does not exceed 21/. 6s. leaving
a profit of 5/. 6s. 6J. or II. 15s. Qd. per acre ; but,
according to the improved system, the expences on
four acres amount to 2i/. 3s. id. whilst the produce-
is 13/. 17s. giving a profit of 19/. 13s. 8d. or 4/. ISs.oaf.
per acre. This extraordinary difference he demon-
strates to arise from the rent and expences of the
fallow year in the old method. But there is another
advantage connected with the new mode, perhaps of
equal importance with- the increased, produce ; and
that is the additional employment it gives to the
poor, particularly women and children, in weeding,
hoeing, &c. The tenures are various, freehold,
leasehold, and copyhold, but principally the former';
and the occupation is mostly from year to year
The size of farms varies, from fifteen acres to 640.;
but the latter are not numerous. The cottagers have
great
RUTLANDSHIRE.
133
great advantages, in possessing enough to enable
them to keep one or two cows. — The average of
rents has not been, till lately, tnore than a guinea
per acre through the county.— The farm-houses are
in general very comfortable ; but their offices are
badly constructed, and inconveniently arranged. —
Many gentlemen farm part of their own estates. —
The tythes of all new inclosures have been com-
muted by allotments of a certain proportion of one-
fifth arable, and one-ninth of greens ward ; and the
greater part of the parishes are exonerated from
tythes, either by modus, or being made .free. The
highest tythes paid are in Oak ham parish, where they
amount to 5s. tid. per acre. — In the early part of the
17th century, the rates of wages for all kinds of
servants, and even workmen, were actually assessed
by the justices of Oakham. By these .regulations
a man-servant, who could make a rick, and kill a
hog, had fifty shillings per annum ; hut if he could
not make the rick, or kill the hog, he had only forty :
" a chief woman-servant to cook, bake, brew, and
make malt, and oversee the other servants," had
twenty-six shillings and eight-pence ; but if she
could not oversee the servants, only twenty-three
and four-pence : the wages for mowers in harvest
were five-pence per day with victuals, and ten-pence
without.
CATTLE, &c.] — Very few cattle are reared in (his
county, and those few of no particular breed. A few
of Bakewell's breed of long horns, and some of the
Devonshire breed, have been lately introduced with
an intention of rearing. The calyes which are bred
are in general sold fat to the butcher, .and are chiefly
fed by the cottagers. The dairies are few, except
for family use : grazing is the principal object. — •
The cattle most in request are the Irish and small
Scotch. The graziers say the Irish are very cheap
in comparison to the others. In general they are,
after one summer's grass, sent to London ; stall
feeding being little practised : now and then hay is
given in the fields to some of the best, to keep them
till after Christinas. Barren cows are frequently
grazed, and some long and short horned heifers of
the. Durham breed. are bought in, at two years old,
and sold when three years old in calf to jobbers,
who take them to the dairy counties, or to London.
— The sheep of this county, which are all of the
polled long wool kind, are in the open fields, o£ a
very inferior sort, very little pains being taken
about them. In the enclosures, however, the breed
Las been always more attended to, and is conse-
quently of a superior kind. The breed is in general
of the old Leicestershire, but in that part of the
county bordering on Lincolnshire the breed of that
county prevails. The new Leicestershire, or Bake-
fwell's breed, has, however, found its way into the
county, and as much as fifty guineas has been given
for the hire of a ram. Fat sheep are sold at two
years old from turnips, and two and a half from
grass; very • few are sheared three times. Folding
is practised very seldom, except in the open fields,
vox., rv. — NO. 150.
The lambs arc generally dropped in March and
April, and weaned in September. Few fat lambs
are sold. The sheep are subject to a disease called
the footlialt, for the cure of which the farmers here
apply butter of antimony, after paring the feet.
When Parkinson wrote, the number of cows in this
county was 2729; calves 1244; and store calves
700. There were no working catUe except 10 oxen
kept by the Earl of Winchelsea ;. but as there was
much grazing of cattle, brought from, other coun'^'
ties, it was estimated that there were 2775 fatting
cattle, and 322 sucklers. At the .same period, the1
horses and mares were 2118, and foals 339, making*
a total of 2457. The hogs were 4991 in number ;
there were 1276 bee-hives, and 122 pigeon-houses.
ETYMOLOGY.]— -The name of this county is derived
from its ancient Saxon name, Roteland, the etymo-1
logy of which is entirely unknown. Some have de-
rived it .from Roet, or Rud, which signifies red ;
because, in many parts of the county the land is of a
red colour. But others object, that this cannot be the
reason, and alledge, that there is only one part of
the county, which is about Glaiston, that has a ruddy
soil; besides, most of the counties in England have
soil of the same colour, and therefore they would
have it be derived from the word Rotundilandia,
from its circular figure ; but its form was not round
when this name,- of which .Rutland is supposed to
be a contraction, was given it ; and besides, it is
not. probable that the Saxons would give a Latin
name to an English county.
GENERAL HISTORY, &c.] — This county, in the
British .times, was part of that nation, or people,
called "Coritani," from the ancient British word
coraui, or corattiaid, a word of doubtful etymology,
but supposed to have been brought into Britain by
some early invaders, who, under the name of Cori-
uians, are noticed in the Welch Legends, and are
recorded as forming one division of the three great
evils which came into Britain, and never went away
again. This district being subdued by Publius
Ostorius under the Emperor Claudius, Rutlandshire
was included in their division of Flavins Caesari-
During the , Saxon heptarchy, between 582
ensis.
and 827, it formed part of the kingdom of Mercia;
under eighteen successive monarch* ; and, after the
union of all the kingdom under one monarch, it
seems to have been the property of the Crown ; for
Edward the Confessor bequeathed it to his queen
Edith, and after her demise to Westminster Abbey.
— To secure this obituary gift-to the monastery, he
confirmed the donation by a kind of anterior deed,
with many other lands. This grant, however, was
set aside by the Norman duke, on his accession : he
resumed the possession of Rutlandshire as Crown
land, and, merely allowing the monastery to receive
the tythes, divided it .amongst some of his nearest
relatives, and most powerful adherents. These first
Norman grantees were, Robert Malet, who held the
ofiice of Great Chamberlain ; Gilbert de Gant, his
nephew by marriage ; Earl Hugh ; Aubrey, the
2 L clerk,
134
RUTLANDSHIRE.
clerk, and several others. In the reign of Edward
the Second, the crown was possessed ot the hundreds
of Martinsley, Alstoe, and East ; all which that
monarch granted to the Lady Margaret, wife of
Piers do Gaveston, Duke of Cornwall, and to be
held by her during the royal pleasure. The hundred
of Wrangdyke was then the property of Guy de
Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick ; but his son Thomas
being a minor at his father's death, Edward gave
tills estate to Hugh Spenser the elder, another fa-
vourite, on the plea of its being in satisfaction of a
debt due to him, of 6770/. During those trans-
actions, the hundred of Okeham Soke is never men-
tioned ; and it is conjectured, that it then formed
part of Martinsley Hundred. From this period the
history of Rutlandshire ceases to be general as a
county.
CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS, PAR-
LIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION, &c.] — According to
Camden, " this small tract was very lately made a
county ; for in the Confessor's time it was accounted
part of Northamptonshire ; and our historians, till
these last 300 years, have not reckoned it amongst
the counties." That part of this county was also in
Nottinghamshire, as far down as the time of Henry
the Third, appears from its entry in Domesday-
book, and also from the historical fact, that in Henry's
fifty-first year the sheriff of Nott's was appointed
escheator of Rutland, or at least of part of it, ex-
tending over several towns and hamlets in Okeham
Soke, Alstoe, and Martinsley wapentakes. Rutland-
shire was not under the direction of a Lord Lieute-
nant, until the 1st of Elizabeth, 1558, when Henry
Earl of Rutland was constituted to that office over
this county and Nottinghamshire. There is a curious
fact recorded by a letter from the late Thomas Bar-
ker, of Lyndon, Esq.* in the Arch«ologia, which
shews that the crown possessed, or claimed, a power
of taxation independent of Parliament, it appearing
from many old MSS. in his possession, that in the
reigns of James 1. and of his son Charles, assess-
ments were made upon this county for the royal
household-)-.
Rutlandshire is at this time divided into five hun-
dreds, as will be seen by our " Summary" of its
* This gentleman died on the 29th of December, 1809, in
the 88th year of his age. His father was remarkable for a cri-
tical knowledge of languages, particularly the Hebrew ; and his
mother was daughter of that eminent person, the Rev. William
Whiston. Mr. Barker was author of several tracts on religious
and philosophical subjects; particularly one on the discoveries
concerning comets, 1757; which contains;! table of the parabola,
much valued by competent judges, and reprinted by Sir H.
Englefield, in his excellent treatise on the same subject ; but
he was most known as an assiduous and accurate observer in
meteorology ; and his annual journals on this subject were many
years published in the Philosophical Transactions. He was a
remarkable instance of abstemiousness, having totally refrained ;
froiiianim.il food; not through prejudice of any kind, or from
an idea that such a regimen was conducive to longevity, as some
of the newspapers improperly stated, but from a peculiarity of
institution winch discovered itself in his infancy.
population. It is in the Midland Circuit ; and it has
only one Petty Sessions, and 11 acting County
Magistrates. It is included in the province of Can-
terbury, and diocese of Peterborough ; and it com-
prises 52 parishes, and one part of a parish.
This county is the only one which has no repre-
sentative except Knights of the Shire, being with-
out city, borough, or even corporation.
MANUFACTURES, &c.] — The manufactures of this
connty are of slight import ; in consequence, it is
considered, of the want of water and the scarcity of
fuel. When Sir F. M. Eden wrote, the principal
employment of the industrious poor throughout Rut-
landshire, was knitting stockings, and spinning linen
and jersey, which were afterwards woven into tam-
mies by poor weavers in the southern parts of the
county. Something of this trade still exists; but agri-
cultural labour, and the encouragement offered by .
the Society for promoting Industry, are the chief
resources of the poor. The wages of both sexes run
from nine to fifteen shillings per week, and the women
are much employed in field work during the summer
months.
FAIRS.] — Oakham, March 15, for horned cattle
and sheep ; April 8, cattle ; May 0, cattle, and a
shew of stone horses ; Saturday in Whitsun-week ;
Saturday after October 16 ; November 19 ; Dec. 15,
cattle and sheep ; Sept. 9, for cattle and swine.
Uppingham — March?; July 7, for horses, cattle,
and coarse linen cloth.
MARKET TOWNS.] — Oakhara, the county town, has
a market on Saturday ; and Uppingham on Wed-
nesday. These are the only market towns in the
county.
POPULATION.] —The population of this county
does not appear to be greatly on the increase. In
the year 1700, it was estimated at 16,<>00 ; in 1750,
it appears to have been reduced to 13,800 ; in 1801,
it had again mounted up to 10,356 ; but, in 1811, it
had reached uo higher than 16,380. The want of
employment probably sends many into other dis-
tricts. The annual proportion of marriages is as
1 to 147; of births, as 1 to 32 ; of deaths, as I to
53.
f The following is one of the orders for this purpose ; —
"To the high constables of the hundred of Martinsley.
" These are in his Magesty's name, by virtue of his Highness'
commission to me directed, straightfy to will and require
you, and every of you, all excuses set apart, that presently
upon sight hereof, you leavey and gather up within your said
hundred and the liberties thereof, capons XII, chickens XII
dozen, good, large, and serviceable, for his Magesty's most
honourable household ; and also one bushel of barley, or oats for
pullen corn; and that you cause the said service of poultry
to be brought safe in baskets with their legs untied, and good
store of straw under them for bruiting, to the sign of tho
Falcon, in Uppingham, on Monday, the XHth day of August,
by eight of the clock.
" S'gned, Eilw. Dickinson,
" His Majesty's Yeoman Purveyor of Poultry."
Summary
RUTLANDSHIRE.
135
Summary nf the Population of the County of RUTLANDSHIRE, as published by Authority of Parliament, in 1811.
. /. K. / i.:;:
HOI
SES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
|-s
*a
fu .— oJ
i.sg<s
•c
Total
HUNDREDS, &c.
<u
Jg-J
A
a
"o jl H
C/) t^» —
£ o * 5j
Si!"
Males.
Females
01
Persons
_2
.c ^ °"
s
5
~— .Si
— ~ i 3
•£ ^ ^ be
t—1
3
ca
ta
£ g ob
= = 2 o
ii "
— co -^ 'C
Alstoe
692
767
5
13
428
198
141
1738
1825
3563
East
578
628
4
6
426
153
49
1446
1513
2959
677
722
1
16
305
288
135
1583
1691
3274
721
762
2
28
412
235
115
1614
1770
3384
657
679
3
14
454
1550
1650
3200
Totals
3,325
3,558
15
77 2,025
1,028
505
7,931
8.449
16,380
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, HUNDREDS, &c.
ALSTOE.] — The hundred of Alstoe, the most ex-
tensive in the county, comprises 27,091 acres ; con-
tains the parishes of Ashwell, Burley, Cottesmore,
Exton, Greetham, Market-Overtoil, Pickworth,
Stretton, Teigli, Thistleton, Whissendine, and
Whitwell ; and, includes the whole northern part
of the county, bordering on Lincolnshire and Lei-
tershire, and uniting with every other hundred
except Wrandyke.
At Burley-on-the-Hill, 12 miles N.E. by N. from
Oak hain, is the magnificent seat of the Earl of Win-
chelsea. The village, which is small, contains a few
genteel mansions, and some neat cottages. This
place, in the Saxon times, was in the hands of Ulf,
who held it of the crown ; and, it is evident, that
the present park, or part of it, at least, was then in
existence ; for there is said to have been, at that
time, a wood of one mile in length and three fur-
longs in breadth. In the reign of Edward II. it
was in the hands of Nicholas lie Segrave ; and, it
is a remarkable fact, that another considerable vil-
lage, of which he was also lord, has since been com-
pletely annihilated. This was called Alestorp. —
Burley was sold into the Harrington family in the
reign of Elizabeth, with whom it remained till it
was purchased of the heir-general by Sir George
Villiers, the favourite of James I. who created him
Duke of Buckingham. After he had purchased it,
he made it a second Belvoir ; and, in some respects,
superior to that famous seat of the Earls of Rutland,
as it is situated on a hill, with a noble park and
woods adjoining, and overlooking the rich vale of
Catmose. Here the Duke entertained King James
and all his court ; and Ben Jonson's Masque of the
" Gypsies" was first performed here before his
Majesty, Prince Charles, and the court. — So strong
was this place, in its mode of building, and from its
situation, that in the civil wars, the Parliamentarian
army placed a small garrison in it, for the purpose
of guarding their County Committee, and also of
harassing the country ; but, feeling- themselves too
weak to occupy such an extensive line of defence,
the garrison set fire to the house and furniture, and
then left it. — After the Restoration, this edifice lay
in ruins many years, till it was purchased by Da-
niel, Earl of Nottingham, whose family, afterwards
inheriting the older title of Winchelsea, have since
that made it their principal residence. It was
rebuilt in its present form, by the first purcha-
ser. The Earl of Nottingham also inclosed the
park with a stone wall of nearly six miles round.
It now comprises 1085 acres, and is covered with
very large oaks, elms, and beech trees, of great
value, and beautifully intermixed with all kinds of
forest trees. The lawns and open grounds are ex-
tensive ; and, though its surface is flat, it possesses
some rich scenery, and much ornamental decora-
tion.— The approach to the house leads through a
thick shrubbery, so that the whole north side bursts
upon the spectator at once. This presents a centre
of fine elevation, 190 feet in length, with an ex-
tensive colonade on each side. A long range of
superb iron railing separates the court from the
road. The visitor enters between two handsome
lodges, and proceeds along a walk of 270 yards, to-
the grand entrance in the north facade. Nothing
can be more superb than this grand coup (1'ieil, with
the mansion in front, the circular colonade sup-
ported by light airy pillars on the sides, and the
offices on each wing, all built of fine light grey
stone, from the quarries at Ketton, and Clipsham,
and forming a court supposed to be the largest in
England. The architecture is Doric. The east
and west fronts, (each 98 feet in extent, are plain ;
and the south front is a counterpart of the northern
face. On the southern front is the superb terrace,
000 feet in length, and 38 broad ; whence the view
over the gardens, ornamented grounds, and adjacent
country, is eminently beautiful. — The principal sa-
loon, on the ground-floor, hns an air of simple ele-
gance. This apartment contains a good full-length
portrait of the present Earl in his installation robes,
as a Knight of the Garter, by Woodford; and hero
are
13G
RUTLANDSHIRE.
some fine marble slabs, inlaid with lapis lazuli,
Blue John, or Derbyshire spar, &c. The drawing-
room, which is exquisitely furnished, contains some
good faintly pictures, and paintings of the Italian
school. — The book-room, an airy, cheerful apart-
ment, contains a number of excellent family por-
traits. — From this, the visitor enters the small
dressing-room, which is rich in ornament ; and also
contains some valuable paintings, and a very an-
cient and curious cabinet of marble and spar, re-
presenting flowers, &c. in their natural colours. — In
the little bed-room, is a curious portrait of Frances,
Duchess of Somerset, in the 17th century ; also an
ancient picture, with a collar of S. S. which has
every appearance of being an original of the famous
Chancellor Bacon. Here is also a Bacchanalian
piece of the most exquisite expression and execution.
The artist is unknown, but its style much resembles
another, which hangs near it, of Dutch Alchy mists
by D. Ryckaert. — The anti-room has two good fruit
pieces of grapes, and melons, with a portrait of a
lady in a Turkish dress, said to be by Rubens. —
The long library is an ancient part of the old man-
sion, which was permitted to remain in the last re-
edification. Its windows, at one end,- open into the
church-yard, ; ;nul though, from its situation, it seems
totally deserted, it contains some paintings, &c.
worthy of notice. The qnilectton of books, though
old, is excellent. In ancient works of Natural His-
tory, and of Anatomy, it is very rich ; as well as in
politics and general literature. — The billiard room
contains some good portraits. — The staircase, ele-
gantly painted in fresco, by Landsoroon, leads to the
painted saloon, by the same artist. The latter pre-
sents an exquisite specimen of architectural propor-
tion, extending the whole breadth of the mansion.
It is in length sixty.-six feet, in width thirty-six,
and fifty-five in height. The paintings which adorn
its walls, were executed in 1711. They represent
the Lifc, Triumphs, and Death, of Julius Cassar. —
The views from the windows are very fine. The
state dressing room, the first of a long range of
apartments hung with handsome Dutch tapestry,
contains portraits of Charles II. his brother Henry,
Duke of Gloucester, and James II. whilst Duke of
York. The state bed room and the adjoining dress-
ing room, also have some good portraits of the royal
house of Stuart. — In two contiguous, bed-rooms,
furnished with handsome tapestry, are several curi-
ous antique paintings, &.C.
From the roof of the mansion, may be seen the
whole of the county, of Rutland.
Burley Church is ,a plain neat building, embosom-
ed in trees.
Ash well, 3f miles N. by W. from Oakham, was of
some consequence^at the Norman Survey. In the
Saxon times it was called Ex-well. .The hospital of
Burton Lazars in Leicestershire once held -some
lands here; but they were granted, at the Disso-
lution, to the Dudley family. The church is an-
cient, and contains three antique altar-monuments :
one of them is of wood, and has a curious figure of
a cross-legged knight, a crusader, in coat of mail ;
another is of stone, to the memory of, an ecclesiastic,
who is represented in, his sacerdotal robes ; and the
third is in the chancel, and has the effigies chaced on
it, of John Vernam, and Rose his wile, about 1479.
— A brass plate records that " Elizabeth Wilcox,
born in this town, but living in Derbyshire, in the
condition of a servant, did, in the year 1648, give
and bequeath the rent of a tenement, situate in tho
parish of St. Peter at Derby, of the value of seven
pounds -per annum, to the poor for ever, viz. one
moiety thereof to the poor of this town ; the other
to be equally divided between the poor of St. Peter's
parish in Derby, and the poor of Elvaston, in that
county, yearly."
The county round Whissendine, seven miles N.WI
by N. from Oakham, is very hilly, and finely diver-
sified. Its ancient church is an interesting object :
and it contains in the chancel a mutilated alabaster
tomb for Bartholomew Villiers, second son of Wil-
liam Villiers of Brokesby, in Leicestershire, and
Margaret his wife. The benevolent Henry Forster,
of Thistlcton, in addition to his other charities in
this county, gave and granted ten pounds per aim.
out of his estates in Swinoshead and Buckminster, in
Lincolnshire, for the perpetual augmentation of this
living.
Teigh, a small .village 5-J- miles N. by W. from
Oakham, commands a ; fine prospept oyer Leices-
tershire. It was the property of. Karl Godwin before
the Conquest. The manor is now in the,Harborough
family. — The church, a rural Gothic structure, con-
tains nothing worthy of particular notice.
At; Market. Overtoil, 5| miles N. by E. from
Overlon, the market has long beep discontinued.
This place, which has afforded considerable grounds
for conjecture and disputation to antiquaries, has
been, incorrectly, we apprehend, considered as the
Roman station Margidunum. In the Saxon times,
the manor w;is the property of Earl Wultheof ; and
at the, Norman Survey it was in. the possession of his
relict, the Countess Judith, piece of William the
Conqueror.. In 1315. it was held by .Bartholomew,
Lord Badlesmere, who. obtained for it a weekly
market, and two annual fairs.- •
Tho village, .'is clean and comfortable. The
church, a very neat Gothic edifice, is kept in good
repair. There are several antique looking man-
sions in the village ; and the circumjacent scenery
is well wooded.
Barrow is a small village, in a retired situation,
five miles N, by E. from Oakham.
Cottesmore, four miles N.N.E. from Oakham, is
a small raral village.
The ancient mansion, if not built .by, the I)ui\mts,
was their residence for several generations ; but the
family is net extinct in the county. .The mansion
has .been fur some years occupied by the Earl of
Lonsdale
RUTLANDSHIRE.
J37
Lonsdale as a hunting seat. It is repaired and ;
modernized, and forms a comfortable residence for
that purpose.
Greetham, six miles N. E. from Oakham, is a
small, rusticated village, consisting only of a few
cottages. The church has a handsome light Gothic
tower and spire. — Here is an inscription, preserved
in rather a grotesque style, and in " most capital"
letters, as follows : —
" Avoid, profane man, come not here ;
None but the holy, pure, and clere:
Or he that growelh to be so,
Into this porch but further got !"
The yew-tree in the church-yard, which was once
very large, still remains a pleasing monument of
antiquity. — This is one of the parishes to which Mr.
Foster bequeathed ten pounds per annum for the
instruction of the poor children in reading the bible,
learning the catechism, &c.
Thistleton, a small village, eight miles N.E. from
Oakham, was the residence of that gentleman, who
died in 1702. — Here is a seat belonging to George
Fludy«r, Esq.
Near Stocking is a seat of Sir Gilbert Heathcote ;
and on the high road side is the well-known " Ram
Jam Inn," 'a noted house of call for the coaches on
the great north road.
Stretton, a small but ancient village, 9| miles
N. E. by E. from Oakham, has the remains of an
ancient manor-house, and a curious old church. It
is famous for an old proverb of " Stretton in the
Street, where Shrews meet," as they do, says Grose,
" in every other town and village in the kingdom ;
but," he adds, " from the manner it is here express-
ed, one might be led to suppose that the Shrews of
England were a body corporate, and Stretton their
common meeting-place." — At the Norman Survey
it was a hamlet of Market Overton, and belonged
to Judith, Countess of Huntingdon, who, if all the
stories told about her be true, was perhaps the
greatest shrew of the manor. It is now in the Noels.
— About two miles further to the southward is the
Five Mile Cross, which is thought to have been in
existence in the Roman times, as a point of separation
for their several roads which crossed here. From
this spot, a road, winding round Exton Park paling,
leads to the village of Exton, 6| miles N. E. by E.
from Oakham. The village is embosomed in trees ;
and the church, considered as the handsomest in the
county, lias a very fine effect at a distance, and even
improves upon approach. The lower part of the
tower is square, with turrets at the corners, orna-
* Their eldest son, John, was born at this place, and is
described by Fuller, as a bountiful house-keeper, dividing his •
hospitality between Rutland and Warwickshire, where he had i
a fair habitation. He was one of the executors of the Lady !
Frances Sidney, and a grand benefactor to the college of her j
foundation at Cambridge. King James created him Baron of ;
Exton, and his lady, a prudent woman, had the Princess Eliza-
beth committed to her government. Wh«n the Princess was
VOL. iv. — NO. 151.
mentcd with pinnacles, and of considerable height.
An octagonal tower, embattled, rises from this,
whence springs a lofty, high, taper spire, lighted1
at intervals by open windows ; and the whole chaste-
ly Gothic. — 'Its interior is extremely neat and clean ;
its decorations have been judiciously preserved in the
antique style ; and all the spandrils of the arches
are supports for the banners of the Harrington and
Noel families, accompanied by their tabards, pennons,
and helmets. The regular disposal of these renders
them a kind of armorial history of the two families ;
whilst the monumental ornaments, and the silent
gloom around, carry back the imagination of the
tourist to the distant and romantic ages of chivalry.
—On entering the chancel, the first monument which
strikes the eye of the stranger is one to the memory
of Sir James Harrington, Knt. and his lady, Lucy.
This is extremely curious. The figures are repre-
sented kneeling at an altar, with two books, under
arches forming an ornamented canopy, with many
armorial bearings. This venerable couple lived
together fifty years, and had eighteen children, many
of whom they saw happily married and settled. He
died in the eightieth year of his age, and she in her
seventy-second year, and both in the same year,
1591. She was daughter of Sir William* Sidney ;.
and from their union are descended, or have been
nearly allied to their descendants, eight dukes; three:
marquises, seventy earls, nine counts, twenty-seven
viscounts, thirty-six barons, amongst which were
sixteen Knights of the Garter, besides many others
since the calculation was made*. — On the opposite
side of the chancel is a fine specimen of monumental
sculpture, by Nollekins, in white marble, to the
memory of Baptist, fourth Earl of Gainsborough.
The figure of Lady Gainsborough, which is extreme-
ly elegant, and as large as life, is represented point-
ing to three medallions of herself and two husbands,
which are resting on a cornucopia, and supported by
Cupids, with Hymen at one side weeping, and his
torch extinguished. She died in 1771. — In the chan-
cel is also an ancient table monument of Nicholas
Vyse, who seems to have been a bishop. In the
centre of the church, is an ancient stone despoiled
of its brass, and an antique table monument, of
alabaster, for John Harrington, Esq. and Alice his
wife ; who died in the early part of the 16th century.
— To the left of this is a large and curious altar-like
monument and tomb of Robert Keylway, Esq. a
famous lawyer, and father of Anne Lady Harring-
ton.— In the north aisle is an elegant marble monu-
ment to the memory of Baptist Noel, Viscount
Campden, who died at the age of seventy-one, in
rfcarried to Frederic, the Prince Palatine, this nobleman, accom-
panied by Henry Martin, LL. D. was sent over to the Palati-
nate, to see her highness settled at Heidelbergb, and to perform
some legal formalities respecting her dowry and jujnture. " This
done, as if God had designed this, for his last work, he sickened
on the first day of his return, and died at Worms, in Germany,
on St. Bartholomew's day, Anno Domini, 1G13."
2M
RUTLANDSHIRE.
1683. It is an exquisite specimen of the art, by
Grinlin Gibbons. On it are statues of the Viscount
and his lady. The whole is twenty-two feet high,
and fourteen broad, and cost 1000/. — Near this is a
handsome table monument in black and white mar-
ble of Anne, wife of Thomas Bruce, Lord Kinlosse,
daughter of Sir Robert Chichester, who died in
1027. She was a relative of the Harrington family.
—Near the west end, is a handsome mural monu-
ment, to the memory of Lieut. General Noel, who
died in 1760. This is by Nollekens, and represents
a female figure, with the torch of Hymen extinguish-
ed, and leaning on and weeping over an urn, on
which is a bust of the General.
Extou is one of the parishes, which enjoy ten
pounds per annum, for the education of their poor
children, by the will of Mr. Henry Foster.
Exton Hall, the seat of Gerard Noel Noel, Esq.
is an antique edifice, in the style of the Elizabethan
age. It may be said to stand in the village, on the
verge of a very extensive park. — About five o'clock
in the morning of the 23rd of May, 1810, a fire was
discovered to have broken out here. It burnt furi-
ously about four hours,, destroying one-half of the
house, with the furniture, pictures, books, &c. to the
amount of 20,000/. All the apartments eastward of
the Gothic hall were consumed ; viz. the dining-
room, drawing-room, two library-rooms, and Lady
Mary Noel's, Col. Noel's, and two other bed-rooms
(formerly the chapel,) together with half the gallery,
the evidence-room, and land steward's apartments.
The flames were stopped by (he gable next the large
hall on one side and by the slill-room on the other.
When the fire was first discovered, and afterwards,
the wind fortunately blew hard from the north-west:
had it been in a contrary direction, the whole house
must have been burnt. In the contusion and hurry
of the fire, Colonel Noel recollected that he had
2000/.- worth of bank-bills in his bed-room, which
he immediately sought for, and fortunately was in
time to rescue from the burning apartment. Not
a single article of furniture, book, or picture, was
saved from any of the rooms destroyed. Amongst
the pictures lost was a landscape, worth 1000 gui-
neas : also the celebrated Venus, by Titian ; Dio-
genes breaking his cup, by Salvator Rosa ; the
Woodman, the Fisher Boy, the Peasant Children
and Ass, and some others, by Gainsborough ; several
fine pictures of Teniers ; a valuable one by Reubens ;
and many exquisite Flemish and Italian pieces. All
the pictures had been just repaired and cleaned by
Mr. Hill, who completed his task and left the house
on his return to London, only the evening before
the fire. Some valuable pictures fortunately hung
in that part of the house that was saved. The public
as well as the proprietor have to regret the loss of
many most valuable books, and several port-folios
of beautiful drawings and prints. The library was
a particularly extensive and complete one — the work
of many years care and superior taste in collecting.
Some books, which were fortunately out of the libra-
ry, were deposited in Exton church ; with many
other articles that were taken from that part of
the house which fortunately escaped the conflagra-
tion.
The gardens, which have long been celebrated,
are quite in the old style. The park and other
grounds are very extensive ; the deer-park alone
containing 1510 acres. Here are some very fine
oaks, ash, elm, beech, &c. Some pieces of water,
with a cascade, have a good effect.
Whitwell is a small, hut ancient village, 4| miles
E. from Oakham. The church stands on a knoll
close by a road-side, embosomed in trees, and pre-
sents a very rustic appearance. Near it is a seat
of Samuel Barkerj Esq. — The family of Flore, or
Flower, had an ancient reidence here, which seems
to have been their original seat.
EAST.] — This hundred is estimated to contain
18,169 acres. It has its name from its situation in
the county ; it is bounded on the north, east, and
south-west, by the counties of Lincoln and Nor-
thampton, on the south by Wrandyke hundred, and
on the west by Alstoe and Martinsley. — It containu
the parishes of Brigg Casterton, Empingham, Es-
sendine, Kelton, Little Casterton, Ryhall, Ticken-
cote, and Tinwell.
Empingham lies 6-J miles E. by S. from Oakham.
It is an inclosed parish, now little better than a
village, though tradition says it once contained seven
parishes. It stands on the southern side of a hill '
near the Guash, and is clean and extremely pleasant.
— Soon after the Norman Survey, the head of the
Normanville family became lord of the manor : the
last of that name, Sir Thomas de Normanville,
died in the reign of Henry III. His daughter anil
heiress married Edmund de Passely, and after hi*
death William de B<i*ini>;es ; after him the manor
was possessed by the Maekworth family. — The
church, a Prebend of Lincoln cathedra), is ancient,
but in good repair. The tower is Gothic : that and
the west entrance are curious anil elegant.
Towards the Guash are seen some earthen mounds,
probably the sites of mills, which at the Norman
Survey were numerous.
This parish shares the benefit of Mr. Henry Fos-
tor's bequest for the education of poor children. —
The paupers are well housed, clothed, and fed, in a
building called the " House of Protection," erected
by Sir William Heathcote, Bart, in 1793.
Home is supposed by Mr. Blore to have received
its name from its situation in an angle, formed by
the junction or diverging of two ancient roads ; one
of which was a direct line from London to York, tha.
other from Essex to Cumberland, the point of union
being where Home Lane turnpike now stands. Of
the church not a fragment remains. Each new rec-
tor receives his induction under an aged thorn-tree,
which stands on or near its site, now within the
limits of Exton Park. Horn-field was the scene
of an action between Edward IV. and the Lancas-
trians, under Sir Robert Welles, and Sir Thomas
Launde.
RUTLANDSHIRE.
139
I. -ui nd r, on the 12th of March, 1470, during
the temporary restoration of Henry VI. :' it was
called " Lnosecoat Battle," from a story of the
fugitives having pulled off their upper garments to
facilitate their flight.
Tickencote, a pretty hamlet, 10 miles E. by S.
from Oakham, is so called from Tican, ' Goats'
and Cote, ' a habitation.' Its Church, from its de-
scending entrance, and some remains of Saxon archi-
tecture, seems to be of Saxon date. It is noted for
its singular arches in the north wall, and for a large
room, with stone stairs and floor, over the chancel,
which was perhaps a place of retirement for some
religious person. This structure was rescued from
a state of decay, in 1792, by Eliza Wingfield, who
took care that the chancel should be preserved as
much as possible, and that what was supplied should
be copied from the original building : her grave and
humble tomb-stone are in the chancel. Both the
interior and exterior are as complete representations
of the ancient building as could be executed. Over
the entrance on the south side is the following in-
scription : —
Eliza Wingfield,
With that true sense of religion and
Reverence for her Maker, which ever
Distinguished her life, rebuilt this church
In the year 1792.
She died July 14, 1794, aged years.
And her remains are here deposited.
The blank between " aged" and " years" remains
to be filled up, but on her tomb-stone this pious lady
is said to have died at the age of eighty-seven. —
The font of this church is very ancient and curious.
The ancient seat of the Wingfield family stands
near the church.
Ingthorpe is a hamlet belonging to Tinwell. It
formerly had a charter, ami was a place of some
consequence.
Pickworth, 13 miles E. N. E. from Oakham, is
said by Wright to have been formerly a town and
parish, of which nothing remained in his time hut
a steeple, known by the name of " Mockbeggar."
That it must have been a place of some consequence
is evident, from a fact which we have ascertained
by an examination of the " Inquisitio Novarum," in
* Wright says, that St. Tibba was a Virgin Anchoresse at
Godmanchfster, a kinswoman of Peada, king of Mercia, ami
lived in or about the year of Christ 69fi ; of so great reputation
lor piety, that our historical poet, Michael Drayton, enumerat-
ing all the holy women amongst our ancestor5, the English
Saxons, write thus :
" and to thee, St. Tibba, let us praise
In solitude to Christ, that past her whole delight
.In Godmanchestcr made a constant anchorite ;
Amongst which of that house, for Saints that reckon 'd be,
Yet never any one more grac'd the same than she."
" But how this character agrees with a second Diana, or how St.
Tibba came from Godmanchester to Rutland to be worshipped,
I know not." — This difficulty is however accounted for in Lain-
Uarde's Dictionary of England ; for he says, that ./Elfsic, Abbot
the reign of Edward HI. where it appears that it
had taxable merchants at a time when there was not
one at Oakham. Mr. Blore supposes that the place
was ruined by the contests, previously to the battle
of riornfield ; and Stukeley says, that the steeple
" was taken down about A.I). 1728, to build a sorry
bridge at Wakesley, tho lower part to build a bridge
by Castertnn."
Essendine, anciently Ezenden, J4| miles E. by N.
from Oakham, is supposed by Mr. Blore te hare
taken its name from a corruption of Eastern Dun,
or Hill, from its situation on a hill on the eastern
border of the county. Here was formerly a castle,,
of which no vestige now remains but a moat, encom-
passing a square area of rather more than an acre.
The church, which stands within the limits of this
moat, is supposed to have* been its chapel. It is
certainly very ancient, and the south door is perhaps
the oldest specimen of architecture in the county.
At Ryhall, 13 miles E. from Oakham/ Caradeu
tells us, " when our forefathers were so bewildered
by superstition as almost to lose the true God in the
crowd of deities, Tibba, a saint of inferior order,
was worshipped as another Diana, by fowlers, fts
patroness of hawking*." — In the bloody battle
fought with the Danes in 870, the stout knight,
Harding of Ryhall, is said to have been one of the
commanders of the Stamford men. This place has
been stated by some writers, though incorrectly, to
have been the scene of action of " Loosecoat fight."
Ryhall church has a handsome Gothic tower of the
time of Henry IV. The interior is plain, but very
clean, and has some neat mural monuments and
atchievements. On the outside, at the north-west
side, or end of the church behind the tower, are soma
vestiges of a cell or chapel, in which St. Tibba is
erroneously said to have lived, died, and been buried.,
— In an apartment over the porch of entrance to
the church, a school is held for the instruction of
about thirty children, in English, writing, and arith-
metic ; but it has no permanent fund.
The manor-house, an ancient mansion of the
Exeter family, has been erected on the remains of
a much older edifice. It has been considerably mo-
dernized, and was lately the residence of Colonel
Pierpoint.
of Peterborough, "took up i he bone* of one Tibba, that was
burried at Ryiiall, and ofl'rred them for a great present to St.
Peter of his abbey. This Tibb (saith Jghn Ross) had this
special bountie, that if your liawke were ravmishe, or had soared
from you, you might, by offering of an hawke in waxe, or some
other present, (tor nottiing was refused,) reclayme or recover
him -.hereby a man may easily espie that the'tse men would soon
be riche, which not contented with the liberal donation of princes,
&c. would leave no stone unturned, nay, no rolton bone unraketl
up, that might allure the simple to visit their churches, and
empty their own purses. Belike that before this tyme. Faulken-
ers, (a dissolute sort of men inclede) could not be brought t*'
slope to pilgrimages, and therefore the nsoi)ks.of St. Pcterborow
devised St.Tibba's Lure for them also."— There are still many
traditions about her at Ryall ; some of the good folks there call
her a queen. ;md say she was wont to bathe in TibbalVIiall
spring, or Tibba 's lull well.
I 10
RUTLANDSHIRE.
Stableford Bridga, in this parish, Camden's con-
tinuator considers as derived from '•' St. Ebbe's
ford," another holy virgin, cousin to St. Tibba, to
whom lie says, perhaps the spring opposite to St.
Tibba's was consecrated, now culled Jacob's Well.
Tollethorpe, 12j miles E. from Onkhara, is sup-
posed by Blore to be corrupted from " the old
Thorpe," or village. It lias a very ancient church,
modernized, with a small double open turret for
bells. The old mansion is a curious building of
Elizabeth's time, partly modernized. — In early times,
this was a place of some consequence. — Blore ob-
serves, that not far from the manor-house, there is
a spring: of carbonated chalybeate water, without
uny mixture of the sulphuric acid. It is something
similar to, but less powerful than, the water of Tun-
bridge Wells.
Belmesthorpe, 14 miles E. from Oakham, is a
small' village, originally the property of the famous
Lady Gediva ; but it contains nothing now to excite
curiosity.
Little Castertoii, 12 miles E. by S. from Oakham,
is a pretty little modern village, lying in a hollow.
The church is not older than the reign of Henry II.
At the end of the south aisle, is a stone of a coffin
shape, lying on the ground, under an obtuse pointed
arch of the later Gothic, with deep mouldings, and
supported by short pillars. Some slight remains of
earth works appear to the westward of the church,
in a field still called the Hill-close ; and thought to
be the remains of" Scrope's manor," or of the man-
sion of the Prior of Newstead, when the parish be-
longed to that monastery.
Brigg Casterton, 1 1 miles E. by S. from Oakham,
upon the ancient Roman Ermine Street, has given
rise to a greater variety of opinions among anti-
quaries than perhaps any place in the British em-
pire. On this point, however, nothing is known
with certainty, further than that it was most cer-
tainly a Roman station, of which there are the re-
mains of the encampment on the south-east side of
the village. It is a curious fact, that although both
town and parish are called Casterton, the manor,
which is said to be co-extensive with the parish, is
more commonly called in public records, Woodhead,
«r Wodelievel, from the residence of the ancient
lords in its high woodland part, more than a mile
north from the village.
The Bridge consists of several arches ; and near
it is the ancient Gothic church. Mr. Blore has
endeavoured, without success, to ascertain the object
of a curious monument under a flat arch in the out-
side wall of the south aisle. It consists merely of
tin; head, hands, and feet, of a recumbent figure,
sunk in squares at the two ends of a stone slab.
Tin well, a large straggling village, 10 miles E.N.E.
from Uppingham, according to Mr. Blore, was an-
ciently called " Tedinwell," from Tede, signifying
hay -grass, and Ing, a meadow. It has a very ancient
church, with a slope-roofed tower. In the inside are
the arms of the Cecils in many parts.
Here is a very ancient manor-house, of the Eliza-
bethan age, now a farm-house.
Ketton, a small, but ancient vilfage, eight miles
E. N. E. from Uppingham, was the property of
Richard de Humet as early as the reign of Stephen ;
from whom it has come through several hands to the
Noels, and is now the property of the heir of th«
Gainsborough estates. Its tenure is by knight's ser-
vice ; and the sheriffs of the county collect annually
a rent of two shillings from the inhabitants, " pro
ocreis reginas," which can only be translated " for
the queen's boots."
The Church is ancient, and of Saxon origin.
When re-edified, it was erected in the form of a
cathedral, being nearly as beautiful, though not so
large, as the mother church of Lincoln ; and it is
even now the neatest parish church in all these parts
for design and structure. In the interior are many
{ remains of antiquity. Near the chancel is a inoiiu-
J ment of the date of 1594, to the memory of Fcrdi-
| nando Caldecotc, who is stated to have left twelve
I children, an equal number of each sex. The tower,
| which has no battlements, and the spire springing at
| once from its summit, is rich in ornament, and light
in execution, having three lofty Gothic lancet win-
I dows on each side, witli clustered pillars. So light
indeed does it appear, that a doubt might be enter-
tained of its capability of supporting the spire, if
the experience of past ages had not proved it. The
spire also is rich in grotesque ornaments, ribbed at.
the corners, being octangular, lightened of much of
its weight by means of twelve windows highly en-
riched, and having four images at the principal
corners. The whole is 180 feet in height. — There
was formerly ranch armorial glass in the windows.
At a short distance from the church is a neat
mansion, inhabited by the late Lady Jane Edwards.
Near this are the remains of an old mansion, called
" Constable's, orGreneham's manor." — The " Old
Town Estate" in the parish, consists of lauds which
were formerly granted for the purchase of white
bread and ale, to be distributed on Cross Monday,
or the Invention of the Holy Cross, which falls on
Monday after the 3d of May ; but the rent is now
expended on the education of ten poor children in
English. — " Mr. John Warrington, of Stamford,
who died in 1806, left 4000/. in the five per cents, to
trustees, to pay eighty pounds per annum to each of
his two brothers as long as they continue unmarried,
but no longer. After their demise, the interest is to
be given to fifty poor widows, or unmarried women,
out of this parish, (and others, Emprngham in Rut-
land, and Uftington, Tallington, and Market Deep-
ing, in Lincolnshire) who must be fifty-five years
of age, not guilty of any irregularity, sober, and
good attenders at church."
MARTINSLEY.] — In this hundred, which contains
15,340 acres, the parishes are, Ayston, Edithweston,
Hambleton, Lyndon, Matiton, Martinsthorpc, Nor-
inanton, Preston, Ridlington, Uppingham, and
Wing. It is bounded by Oakham Soke, or Hundred,
on
RUTLANDSHIRE.
141
*n the west, Wraiulykcon the south and east, Alstoc
and East Hundreds on the north and east.
Edithweston, 5| miles E. S. E. from Oakham, is
a village composed of farm-houses, with an ancient
church. Near this edifice stands an antique mansion,
•which seems to have been the manor-house ; it is
low, as such buildings of the age of Elizabeth gene-
rally are, but has some curious Gothic door-ways.
Here was anciently a priory of Benedictine monks.
Normanton, six miles E. by S. from Onkham, is
now depopulated : nothing remains but its venerable
church, which, inclosed by the pleasure-grounds of
Nonnanton House, rears its little Gothic turret above
the shades of a surrounding shrubbery. The place
was formerly esteemed as favourable to sheep. It
is not mentioned in the Norman Survey, but soon
after the Conquest, it was the property of the Nor-
manvilles, from whom its name was derived. It was
purchased from the Mackworths by an ancestor of
Sir Gilbert Heathcote, Bart, the present possessor.
Normanton House stands in a well-wooded park,
tastefully laid out, and producing a fine effect. It
is an elegant modem edifice, of white stone, in a
beautiful style of architecture, whose interior pre-
sents a rich scene of modern decoration. The hall,
light and airy, contains some good statues ; the
library, fitted up with sofas, and the book cases,
hung with chintz curtains, appears more like a dres-
sing-room than a study. Over the fire-place in the
dining-room is the ori«inal portrait of the present
Lady Heathcote, as Hebe ; the engraved copies of
which are so much admired by the public. The
drawing-room is brilliantly, not gaudily, fitted up
with embossed gold paper, having gilt borders and
mouldings.
Lyndon, 2£ miles S. E. by E.from Oakham, from
being a royal manor in the reign of Edward II.
passed into the possession of the Corbys, Deneys,
Paytons, and Hunts successively, till it was pur-
chased by Sir Abel Barker and Thomas Barker his
brother, who left both the manor and advowson to
Sir Thomas Barker, Bart. From the date 1675,
on au ancient ohiinney-piece in one of the apart-
ments, it appears that the house was built by the
latter. One of the lower rooms contains an original
portrait of the celebrated Whiston, from whom the
present possessor of the mansion is descended by
the mother's side: He is drawn with his finger
lifted, his left hand holding a book, and his counte-
nance shewing deep thought.* Near that of Whis-
ton, hangs a picture of bis daughter and of her hus-
band, the late learned Thomas Barker, Esq.— In
the year 1780, some pieces of talc were dug up here
in a stiff blue clay. This substance has been found,
we understand, in other parts of the county.
* Thi. painting was executed by a lady, of whom Horace
Walpole says, • Mrs. Hoadly, whose maiden name was Sarah
Curt.s, was a disciple of Mrs. Beal, and a paintress of portraits
by profcss.on : she was so happy as to become the wife of that
^reatand good man, Dr. Hoadly, afterwards Bishop of Win-
VOL. IV.— NO. 15U
The Church, n«ar which Noramnton Hall stands,
is a small Gothic edifice, with a neat tower. In the
burying ground, the remains of Mr. Whiston were
interred, covered with an humble sod, but with u
head-stone inserted in the wall, on which the follow -
ing inscription appears : —
" Here lieth the body of
The Rev. William Whiston. M. A.
He was born Dec. 9th, 1C67,
and died Aug. '22, 1752,
In the 85th year of his age.
His writings shew,
His unwearied study,
And extensive knowledge
in various parts of Literature ;
His sufferings for conscience sake
prove his sincerity.
After a life spent
In piety towards God,
And benevolence and charity
towards man,
He rests in hope
through the merits of Christ
Of a joyful and blessed resurrection,
to eternal life."
Hambledon, formerly Hameldune, perhaps mean*
ing the hamlet on the hill, stands on an eminence,
4| miles E. S. E. from Oakham. At the Norman
Survey, when it was for the most part in the hands
of the Conqueror himself, it was certainly of more
consequence than now, having three churches. The
manor passed from Lord Badlesmere, who procured
a royal warrant for a weekly market, and an annual
fair, through various hands, until it became the pro-
perty of the Duke of Buckingham, who sold it to
the Harringtons. It now belongs to the Earl of
Wmchelsea. Here is an old hall, or mansion, now
occupied as a farm-house. In an upper apartment
are still preserved several suits of plate armour.
At Manton, 3| miles N. by E. from Uppingham,
was an ancient chauntry, the remains of which are
incorporated in the old manor-house which stands
in the village. This place is small, though ancient.
1 he church was a collegiate foundation in the reign
of Edward III. At the Dissolution the plate was
only seven ounces; but the ornaments, household
stuffs, goods and chattels, were valued at 27/. 3s. id.
all which was seized by the legal plunderers ; and
though the number of communicants was one hun-
dred, yet it appears that Sir William Smith, one of
the brethren of the chauntry, did the duty of the cure
for 3/. 6*. Sd. and his diet.
At Martinsthorpe, (vulgarly called Mastrop,)
2{ miles S. from Oakham, was formerly a saat of th«
Earls of Denbigh. This was pulled down in 1755,
except the chapel, which has neither spire nor turret ;
its windows are gone, and it seems totally deserted.
Chester. From that time she only practised the art for her
amusement ; though, , if we may judge of her talents by the print
fromj,er portnut ot Whiston, the art lost as much as she gained
RUTLANDSHIRE.
In order <o secure the possession, a sermon is
preached in it on particular occasions : except this
the living is a mere sinecure.
Ridlington, within the lir.iits of Leafield Forest,
3J miles' N. W. from Uppingham, is pleasantly
situated amidst woodlands and cultivated inclosures.
Its population at the time of the Norman Survey
was considerably greater than now. The Church
is antique, and contains a monumental record" of
the sixteenth century for Sir James Harrington and
his wife, Frances, who bore him nine sons and seven
daughters.
Ayston, If mile N. W. byN. from Uppingham,
has a neat Gothic church, which contains a fine win-
dow of coloured glass, with the crucifix in the centre,
and scriptural devices uround it. There are also
some monumental remains in the church-yard, par-
ticularly two figures very much defaced : these were
evidently carved out of a single block of stone ; one
is in armour ; the other has a cross on the breast ;
but even tradition is silent respecting those whom
they were intended to represent.
In the village of Preston, 1| mile N. by E. from
Uppingham, there is an antique farm-house, in a
"venerable style of architecture, and once the manor-
house. The ancient Church presents some Saxon
arches, and contains several handsome monumental
tablets and escutcheons. In the reign of Edward
the IVtli, the manor was the property of the Earl of
Warwick. After the battle of Barnet, in which the
renowned Warwick fell, Edward made a partition
of the estates between the ill-fated nobleman's two
daughters, Isabel and Ann, married to his brothers
Gloucester and Clarence : the unfortunate widow,
being suspected by him of having encouraged her
husband's designs, was left destitute, and fearing
further effects of his resentment took sanctuary in
Beaulieu Abbey, Hants : not being safe even there,
she fled and concealed herself in the north, during
his reign and that of his murderous brother, Richard.
On the accession of Henry VII. she emerged from
her retirement, and that monarch rewarded her at-
tachment to the Lancastrian cause by restoring her
estates : her daughters were dead, without issue,
and to testify her gratitude she bequeathed them to
Henry.
Uppingham, 6| miles S. by E. from Oakham,
and 89| N. N. W. from London, is the second town
in the county, in point of importance, but in some
respects superior to Oakham, its houses being in
general well built, its streets well paved and clean,
and it exhibits an air of business on all sides. Neither
Iceland nor Cavnden speaks of it in very high terms :
the former, indeed, says " it is but one meane street,
and hath but a very meane church." Although it is
not a place of very high antiquity, it has in late
times been of spme consequence. • Leland, copying
from an old roll, says, " Anno 2, Henry 7. The
Towne of Uppingham is to have custody of weighttes
and measures for Roytl. shire." Whereas Grose,
in^iis " Provincial Glossary," places this regulation
in the reign of Henry 8. and adds, that it was made
to induce turners and other makers of measures to
settle there.
The Church, though not elegant, is in the ancient
Gothic style, with a lofty spire. It is surrounded
by -a neat church-yard, from the southern side' of
which there is an extensive prospect. Amongst some
handsome monumental memorials there is one in
honour of Edward Fawkener, Esq. dated 1853.
Great eulogiums are bestowed on his character : he
had been sheriff of the county, and is described by
the storied sculpture, as uniting the professions of
the lawyer and soldier. He was charitable to the
poor ; and, much to his credit, an encourager of
poor young men, whose genius required and deserved
the fostering hand of patronage. — Dr. Jeremiah
Taylor, whose piety embalms his memory, was rector
of this parish, at the commencement of the civil
wars. Being marked as the champion of his sove-
reign and the church, he was deprived of his living,
and was appointed by King Charles to be his chap-
lain. He accompanied his royal master through
much of the subsequent warfare ; but when Charles's
cause began to droop, and he was a prisoner, his
faithful follower was obliged to secrete himself in
Wales, and to keep a school there for the support
of himself and family. After various vicissitudes
of fortune he was, at the Restoration, promoted to
the Bishopric of Down and Connor. — Near the
church-yard is the Free-school, founded in 1584,
on a very extensive plan for general education, and
even for preparing youth for the Universities. The
expences were paid partly by the Rev. Robert John-
son, Archdeacon of Leicester, from his own purse,
and partly from the produce of concealed church
lands which he begged from Queen Elizabeth. An
Hospital was also built at the same time, and out of
the same funds, by the benevolent Archdeacon, for
the maintenance of thirteen poor men and one woman.
A weekly market, and an annual fair, were granted
in the ninth year of Edward I. (1280,) to Peter de
Montford ; the latter with the proviso that it should
not be to the detriment of any fair of older date in
the vicinity. Here are annual races, at a place called
the Brand, a short distance south of the town.
The history of the manor of Uppingham is 'con-
nected with that of the nation, as it was often pos-
sessed by persons who stood prominent in the events
of the several periods in which they flourished. The
Montforts and the Beauchamps, Earls of Warwick,
were the possessors of it from the reign of Henry III.
the time when particular mention is first made of it,
till that of Richard II. who, banishing the owner,
gave this estate to Thomas Mowbray, Duke of
Norfolk, also banished by him in the same year.
This manor was restored, after his death, to the true
heir, Anne, daughter of Richard Beauchamp, Earl
of Warwick. Edward the Sixth, who inherited it
with the crown, granted it to his sister, Elizabeth,
afterwards queen ; and she, after her accession, gave
it to the Cecil family, from whom it passed as a
marriage
RUTLANDSHIRE.
143
marriage portion lo the Greys, Earls of Stamford.
Since that period it lias passed through various fami-
lies.
Beaumont Chaee, which lies to the southward of
Uppingham, is a romantic district, diversified with
hill and dale. The valley, through which flows the
river Eye, is beautifully interspersed with woods.
Wing, or Winge, four miles N. E. by E. from
Uppingliam, is known to have been the manorial
estate of the family of Montfort, whose ancestor,
Httgh, accompanied the Noruaan Conqueror, and
appears to have been a man of great .consideration
and influence. His grandson, Robert de Motitfort,
was persuaded by the monks of Thorney Abbey, in
Cambridgeshire, to bestow upon them a moiety of
the church ; after which, they extorted, by degrees,
from the fears and devotion of various posses-
sors, the whole manor, which was confined to
then) by a hull of Pope Alexander III. They re-
tained it till the Dissolution, when it was in the
occupancy of the family of Lacy, at a rent of 10/.
per annum.
OAKHAM.] — The hundred of Oakham Soke occu-
pies nearly all the western side of the eounty, Laving
Martinsley on the east, the Welland parting it from
Leicestershire on the south, Leicestershire also on
its western limits, and Alstoe hundred to the north.
It extends overl5,222 acres, and contains the parishes
of Barley thorpe, Beltou, Braunston, Brooke, Clip-
sham (a detached parish on the north-east limit of the
shire,) Egletoo, Flitteris, Langham, Oakham, and
Wardley. — It is considered, that this hundred was
always a fee existing in the Crown, until it was
granted by Edward II. to the wife of his favourite
Gaveston ; and on Gaveston's disgrace, it reverted
to the same possession.
Oukham, the chief town in the hundred, and the
capital of the shire, though now little better than a
village, is 95* miles N.N.W. from London. — At the
Norman Survey, Aubrey, the clerk, held the church
of Oakham, and the lands thereunto appertaining,
by the king's special grant and favour. Henry II.
granted the manor to Wacheline de Ferraris, a
junior branch of the family of De Ferrars, Earls of
Derby, creating him Baron of Oakham. He was
generally supposed to have been the founder of the
castle, and to have made this the chief seat of his
family. Having accompanied Richard I. to the Holy
Land, he died during the siege of Acre. After
passing through the possession of many noble fami-
lies, it now belongs to the Earl of Winchelsea. —
About the close of the seventeenth century, there
were some considerable remains of the castle ; but
they are all down except some parts of the outer
•walls, in which the loop-holes remain. There are
still, however, extensive earthen mounds, which,
with a ditch, surround a large area, in which is the
Hall, said, by some, not to be as old as the castle
itself. Others think, however, that this was once the
hall of the inhabited part of the castle. In one cor-
ner of the area, within the ruins, is a well surrounded
by trees, evidently used for domestic purposes in the
ancient fortress. — The Hall is now used for the pub-
lic business of the county. It contains both courts,
civil and criminal, without any division. The door
of entrance is Saxon ; the other parts are Gothic. —
A stranger cannot fail of being struck with the
horse-shoes, some of which, of an immense size,
are nailed on the outside of Hie Castle-yard gate ;
and others on the inside of the hall. Of the lat-
ter, many are gilt, with the donor's name on them,
and placed over the judges' seat on the criminal
bench. The old manorial custom from which this
arises, took place at the first erection of the castle,
on the grant to Walchelino de Ferrars, whose an-
cestor bore arms semee of horse-shoes, as designa-
tive of his office of master of the horse to the Duke
of Normandy. The Lords de Ferrars were intiiled
to demand from every Baron, on his first passing
through this lordship, a shoe from one of his horses,
to be nailed upon the castle-gate, the bailiff of the
manor being .empowered to stop the horses, (and
carriages also of late years,) until service was per-
formed. The custom is still preserved, but has long
been compounded in money as a kind of fee to the
bailiff, who takes care to be provided with shoes of
different sizes, in proportion to the generosity of the
donor. — Amateurs in horse-shoes, may now find here
every variety in size, from the dimensions of a break-
fast table to the measure of a Brobdignagian palfrey ;
most of them gilt ; some of them given by judicial
peers ; and one very splendid one left by the Duke
of York in 1788, &c. — Within the precincts of the
castle was formerly a free chapel. The salary and
other privileges, in Catholic times, were consider-
able ; but it has long been disused, — The Manorial
Court belonging to the castle has its jurisdiction
over the parish called the "Lord's Hold ;" and the
"Dean's Hold." The other parish is under the juris-
diction of a court held by the Chapter of Westmin-
ster once in three years. The jurisdiction of the
first of these extends over Braunston, Wardley, and
Belton, in this county, andalso over Thorpesnckville,
and Tvvilbrd, in Leicestershire. At it are als^
chosen the parish officers ; and all the inhabitants
are bound to appear once a year, ami pay the sum
of one penny, or be fined at the pleasure of the
clerk of the court. The Dean's Court have also the
power of choosing parish officers for that part under
their jurisdiction.
The Church, a handsome structure, in excellent
order, and having an elegant tower aad spire, is
Gothic. Its antiquity, and its founder, are unknown ;
but it seems not older than the reign of. Henry VI.
It is said that the spire was erected by Roger Flore,
a great benefactor to the town, who died about 1483.
— One of its oldest monuments is on the south side
of the chancel, formerly where a chapel stood in Ca-
tholic times, to the memory of William Waryn, a
resident here, and a merchant of the staple at
Calais.
144
RUTLANDSHIRE.
Calais*. — In the body of the church are several
grave-stones for the family of Flore, who seem,
about the fifteenth century, to have been of good
repute in this town. — The church is indebted to
Anne (Kelway,) Ludy Harrington, for a library, for
. which she built a convenient place in the church, and
furnished it with about two hundred Latin arid Greek
folios, for the Use of the vicar, and the neighbouring
clergy. — The Free-school, situated in the church-
yard, is a plain but convenient building, respectably
kept up. It was built and endowed in the reign of
Charles I. though begun in the reign of Elizabeth,
by the Rev. Robert Johnson, Archdeacon of Leices-
ter, and holding the living of North Luffenham in
this county. He exerted himself much in procuring
benefactions for this purpose ; and he also received
from Queen Elizabeth some concealed lands, which
enabled him to complete his design here, and a'lso
at Uppingham. The salary for the master was
settled at 24/. per annum ; along with him, an
Usher was to have 12/. per annum ; and seven of
the scholars were to be entitled for seven years to
an exhibition at Cambridge of forty shillings per
annum each. He also appointed a receiver of the
rents, &c. with a salary ot five pounds per annum ;
and ordered that at the two annual audits, each
governor present should be allowed1 4s. 4rf. for his
dinner, and a pair of gloves. — The Charity-school
was founded in 1711, this being one of the parishes
mentioned in the benefaction, appointing 60/. per
annum for the education of the poor children. This
is to teach and clothe twelve poor boys, and as many
girls, who are also taught spinning, &c. and there
is also an additional sum of 10/. to put out the poor
children as apprentices.
The Old College, or Hospital, founded by Wil-
liam Dalby, of Exton, merchant, for two chaplains,
and for twelve poor men, existed at least as early as
the reign of Edward III. — The New Hospital was
founded by Archdnaeon Johnson, fora warden, sub-
warden, and fifteen poor men and one woman, with
a stipend of three pounds per annum each ; eight of
* A slight sketch of his will, dated in 1499, will serve to
throw some light on (lie customs of those limes. He lirst be-
.qtteaths five pounds to (he high altar of the parish church, for
tythes and duties forgotten, besides the sums to be paid to the
officiating priests at his funeral, and to the poor who should say
praters for his soul. His next most anxious care seems to have
been for the souls of himself, hit, father and mother, and " all
Christian souls in the parish church of Okeham," for twenty
years to come ; and he bequeath* 200/. for the purpose of finof-
ing two priests, who should be able and willing to offer up
prayers for their benefit. He leaves ten marks for the repair of
lite highways and bridges of Oakham ; also forty shillings to the
Guilds of the Holy Trinity, and of our Lady, of both which he
^vas a member. He then leaves his lands and tenements in
Oakham to his wife Agnes, and to his children after her; and
concludes with a bequest of his dwelling-house to the vicar and
churchwardens, provided that the said vicar and his successors
shall, during the mass on every Sunday thoughout the year,
commemorate hie sou', and the souls of his father and mother ;
but should this be neglected, then the house to be sold, and the
the inmates to be townsmen of Oakham. — Other
charitable donations to the churc-h and poor, have
been numerous. — Mr. Robert Blackburn, who died
some time after 1500, desired his body to be buried
in the church, and that " his best living creature"
should be given as a mortuary along with it ; to this
he added twelve-pence to the high-altar, for tythes
forgotten ; thirteen -pence to be distributed in alms
for the good of his soul ; two shillings a piece to six
priests for several successive days, for the perform-
ance of his obsequies, and a penny a piece each day
to the clerks ; three shillings and fourpence to the
bells of Oakham church ; and twelvepence to the
Guilds of All Saints and St. Mary's, both in this
town. — Henry Foster, Esq. was one of its benefac-
tors. .
Here was an ancient custom, before the Reforma-
tion, for the pious and devout to go on a pilgrimage
to our Lady's Well, which, is a fine spring, still in
existence, and preserving the same name, about a
quarter of a mile from the town.
The County Gaol, near the ancient boundaries of
the castle, is a modern brick and stone building,
airily situated, • and constructed of an octagonal
shape, upon the modern Bridewell plan. When
Howard visited the old gaol some years ago, he
found it thatched, and twice he found it empty !
This is also the Town Gaol and County Bridewell.
At the eastern limit of the town, is an oJd seat of
Colonel Noel's : it stands low, but has a good view
of Burley Hill and Park, — Near it is a large riding
house with stables, originally intended by Colonel
Noel for the service of his Majesty*, and on the
opposite side of the road is a neat and pleasant
bowling green.
This town is evidently in an improving state ;
partly from the increased intercourse arising from
the agricultural meetings, and partly from its new
line of water comruunicationf.
Barleythorpe, two miles N. W. by W. from Oak-
ham, has had the same manorial lords ever since the
time of Edward the Confessor, with the exception
of
money to be distributed in works of mercy, and deeds of cha-
rity, for the welfare of his soul.
f The most remarkable character in the biography of this
place wa« Jeffery Hudson, %vhom Fuller calls the least man of
the least county in England. Wright, who states him to be
memorable on many accounts, says he was the son of one John
Hudson, a person of a very mean condition, but of a lusty
stature, as were all his other children. Jeffery was born in
1619, and when above seven years old, and only eighteen
inches in height, he was taken into the family of the Duke of
Uuckingham, at Burley on the Hill, as a rarity of nature ; and
the court being there about that time in progress, he was served
up at table in a cold pie. After the marriage of Charles I. with
the Princess Henrietta Maria of France, he was presented to
the quern, and became her dwarf; and it mu>thave been about
that time that the king's great porter, during a masque at White-
hall, pulled him out of his pocket, to the great surprize of the
Company. Soon after he was sent to Prance to bring over the
queen's midwife, but on his passage was captured by a French
pirate, and carried prisoner to Dunkirk, on which occasion
Davenant
RUTLANDSHIRE.
145
of a short interval immediately on tlie Dissolution.
The Abbot and Convent of Westminster are now
reprcBented in their territorial rights by the Dean
and Chapter.
At Langham, 3| miles N.W. by W. from Oakham,
the, Chapel is an ancient building, which once con-
tained much armorial glass, with the shields of the
kings of the Bast Angles, of the Benuchamps Earls
ef Warwick, and the ancient families of Hastings,
Clare, &c. Here were also two very ancient ala-
baster monuments of the fourteenth century. This
is one of the parishes which shares ten pounds per
annum I'or the education of the poor.
Rakesboro' Hill eujoys a fine prospect over the
vale of Catmose, &c.
At Braunston, three miles W.S.W. from Oakham,
the chapel, (belonging to Hamilton parish in another
hundred) contains some monument <1 memorials of
the ancient family of Chiseldine, who formerly flou-
rished here and at Uppingham.
Belton, five miles W. from Uppingham, in the
reign of Edward III. was of sufficient consequence
to have a fair, that monarch having granted one to
the Blounts, lords of the manor. The chapel, subor-
dinate to Wardley, has an ancient monument of the
Hush-woods. Much of the land in former times
was enjoyed by monastic institutions.
Wardley, 3J miles W. S. W. from Uppingham, is
extremely pleasant, being seated in Deepdale, or
rather on its borders, and on the verge of that wind-
ing valley through which runs the river Eye sepa-
rating Rutland from Leicestershire.
Brooke, 2| miles S.S.W. from Oakham, was for-
merly part of the forest of Leafield. Near this place,
says Wright, " was situated a small priory, yet the
only monastery of either sex in this county. They
were canons regular of St. Augustine." It was
founded by Hugh de Ferrars, son of Walclieline,
in the time of Richard I. At the Dissolution, the
priory and lands were granted to Anthony Cope,
Esq. who sold them to the Noel family of Dalby, in
Leicestershire. The church is supposed to have
been that belonging to the monastery.
Egleton, two miles S. E. from Oakham, is a. small
cheerful village, in the vale of Catmose. The chapel,
Davenant wrote a mock-heroic poem, with the title of " Jef-
freidos." In this lie says, that when the vessel was captured,
this great little man
"•Resolv'cl to hide him where they sooner might
Discover him, with smelling than with sight.
Each eye was now employ d,'no man could think
Of any uncouth nook, or narrow chink.
But straight they sought him there; in holes not deep
But small, where slender maggots us'd to creep ;
At last they found him close, beneath a spick
And almost span-new-peuter-candlestick !"
When liberated by the French court, he returned to England,
and, during (he civil wars, was a Captain of Horse, but accom-
panied his Royal mistn-ss on" her return to her native country,
where lie challenged a Mr. Crofts, brother to'Lord Crofts, who
came armed to the ground only with a squirt; which so enraged
VOL. IV. — NO. 151.
subordinate to Oakham, is a re -edification of a more
ancient building. Here was a Guild, founded for
the maintenance .of one priest to sing mass " for
ever," with an endowment of lands in various parts
of the county, of the value of 5/. 8s. 6J. out of which
II. 9s. annually were paid to the different persons,
and the remainder to the priest.
At Clipsham, lOf miles N. E. by E. from Oak-
ham, the church is of some antiquity, and has some
armorial glass in its windows, supposed to have
been removed hither from the long ruined church at
Pickwith. — Here was a chauntry founded by the
De la Zoueh family, " to sing here for ever."
WRANDYKE.] — This hundred, bounded on the
west by Martinsley, on the north by East Hundred,
and on the south by Northamptonshire, contain*
15,178 acres. Its parishes are Barrowden, Bis-
brooke, Caldecot, Dry-stoke or Stoke-dry, Glaislon,
Lyddington, Morcot, North Lutfenham, Pilton,
Seaton, South Luffenham, Thorpe, and Tixover.
Near Drystoke, 3{ miles S. W. by S. from Up-
penham, from the hills, are several extraordinary
and interesting prospects of the surrounding coun-.
try. The place itself is situated on the side- of a,
hill ; and, from the scanty supply of water which
this site affords, Mr. Wright supposes it obtained
the adjunct to its name of dry. Camden, speaking
of it, says it is never to be forgotten, as the ancient
residence of the famous family of the Digbys ;
branded with everlasting infamy by Everard Digby,.
who wickedly conspired, with other execrable incen-
diaries, to destroy his king and country at one blow
of hellish thunder. Mr. Wright seems to think that
the political errors of the father were atoned for by
the virtues of the son. He adds, that this lordship,
notwithstanding the attainder of Sir Everard for.
treason, still remained in his family, he having long
before conveyed this and many other manors to the
use of his son and heir apparent in tail, reserving .to
himself the use of them for life : so that when he
was attainted, still he being only tenantybr life, his
estate remained to Sir Kenelm, his son, who b-ing- .
then underage, a point in law arose, " whether the
King should have the wardship of the body and
lands of the said Kenelm, or any part of the same ? "
the little hero, that he insisted on fighting with pistols on horse-
back, and actually shot his antagonist. For this he wasexpelled
the court ; but after the Restoration lie returned to England, and,
it has been saifl, was made Captain of a Ship ol War. This,
however, is rather unlikely ; yet it is a fact, that he went to sea,
and was taken by a Turkish pirate, who carried him into B,ir-
bary, where he was sold as a slave, and continued in that state
for manv years. He was at length redeemed, and returning to
England, was supported by a pension from the Buckingham
family, and some other benefactions. During the troublesome
time? of 1678, he was suspected; and being known to be a
Roman Catholic, he was arrested in the metropolis, and confined
for some time in the Gatehouse at Westminster ; and, though
soon released, died shortly afterwards. It is said thai he never
grew between his seventh and thirtieth years, but after thirty
shot up to three feet nine inches ; which rapid increase he
hiir^elf attributed to the frequent beatings he had received « hilst
in slavery.
2 o they
RUTLANDSHIRE.
they being held of the crown in capite. A negative '
decree was put upon this question, much to the cre-
dit of the honest judges who awarded it. This Sir
Kenelm, from whom descended the present noble
Digby family, was an extraordinary character for
learned speculation. There are some remains of
the mansion-house and gardens now converted into
a farm-house and offices. — The Church is Gothic,
and has an antique porch covered with ivy : the in-
terior is ill-kept, but interesting from the monuments
which it contains. There is in the nave a tall monu-
ment of the wife of Everard Digby, the slab of
which is carved with a female figure in the costume
of the fifteenth century, surmounted by children
praying ; and in the chancel another table monument
of alabaster. There are several other monuments,
tombs, or gravestones, equally interesting, belonging
to the Digby family. The little care taken to pre-
serve them, and the whole appearance of the vene-
rable edifice, is highly discreditable.
Lyddington, once a place of considerable conse-
quence, but now only a village, 3| miles S. by E.
from Uppingham, appears to have been church pro-
perty, from an early date, till Holbech, Bishop of
Lincoln, to which see it belonged, resigned it to
King Edward, who bestowed it on Gregory, Lord
Cromwell, and Elizabeth his wife, for their joint lives,
or " as long as it should please the king ;" and after-
wards gave the reversion to William Cecil Lord Bur-
leigh, whose son, Thomas, converted part of the
ancient palace into an hospital, for a warden, twelve
poor men, and two women, and gave it the name of
" Jesus Hospital." In the hall lies a large folio
bible, inscribed " Lyddington Hospital Bible," given
by John Clare, Esq. This volume contains a manu-
script prayer, which is always read by the warden with
the church service. In the Church, which has a hand
some tower and spire, are some brazen figures, pre-
senting curious specimens of antique costume.
At Caldecott, a small villag* seated on the Eye,
4 > miles 8. from Uppinghara, the cottages are built
of a yellowish stone, which throws an air of gloomi-
ness over the scene. The Church, which stands
nearly on the banks of the river, presents a hand-
some appearance. It consists of a nave and chancel,
in a plain style of the later Gothic : the date, 1648,
is marked on the roof. This building contains nothing
remarkable, except an ancient painting of Adam and
Eve, with the tree of knowledge and the serpent,
now nearly effaced. In 1798, the spire, thirty-four
yards high, was shattered by lightning ; but it has
been rebuilt with an inferior kind of free-stone. — A
bridge here unites Rutlandshire with Leicestershire.
Thorpe, a small village on the banks of the Wei-
land, five miles S. E. by S. from Uppingham,
appears to have formed part of the manor of Bar-
rowden, at the time of the Norman Survey.
Seaton, 3J miles S. E. from Uppingham, was also
considered, at that period, part of the same manor :
its name was then Segenlone. Some of the lands
were held by Robert de Todeni, whoso fortune ap-
pears to have been inconsiderable, yet he actually
built or refounded Belvoir Castle, and from him
the present noble owner is descended. The Church
is a pleasing Gothic building, but with only one
monument of any antiquity, in an arch on the south
wall. Two coats of arms cut in the stone still exist,
but the rest of the monument is almost defaced.
Bisbroke, two miles E. from Uppingham, was
originally called " Bittesbrooke," and some of its
lands were annexed to the manor of Barrowden.
Barrowden, 6£ miles E. from Uppingham, though
formerly a place of such consequence as to have
manorial jurisdiction over lands in Luffenham, Glais-
ton, Bisbrook, Morcot, Thorpe, and Seaton, can
now claim no higher title than that of a village.
Glaiston, two miles E. N. E. from Uppingham,-
is a cheerful village, containing a handsome man-
sion, occupied by Stafford O'Brien, Esq. This
edifice, which presents an appearance of former
manorial grandeur, is of white stone, in the style
of architecture of the seventeenth century. The
Church is a plain but neat building, with a low
tower and spire.
At Morcot, four miles E. by N. from Uppingham,
is an hospital for six poor people, men or women,
unmarried, with a stipend of six pounds per annum
to each, founded by a Catholic named Gilson, sup-
posed to have been a priest. The Church is an old
Gothic edifice, containing nothing remarkable, ex-
cept an ancient monument, with an inscription in
Norman-French, " William de Overton gist icy,
Dieu de s'alme eyt mercy." It has no date.
Pilton, 4| miles N. E. by E. from Uppingham,
did not exist at the Norman Survey, and is now a
place of no magnitude or importance.
North Luffenham, 5£ miles N. E. by E. from
Uppingham, is a populous village. It appears to
have formed, at the Norman Survey, one manor with
South Luffenham, though they are a mile apart.
Mr. Wright states, that Henry Noel, Esq. second
son of Viscount Campden, resided here during the
civil wars, and, refusing to deliver up his house,
arms, and person, to Lord Grey, of Groby,who de-
manded them for the parliament, was forced by
fire and batteries to capitulate ; they carried him
prisoner to London, where he remained a long time.
This mansion is standing, and was lately inhabited by
a branch of the Heathcote family. The Church con-
tains one monument, and a brass plate set up in com-
memoration of the benevolent Archdeacon Johnson,
rector of the parish, and the founder or promoter of
several charitable institutions.
South Luffenham is a small village, not remark*
able for any thing of importance.
Tixover, a hamlet belonging to Kettou, is 7* miles
E. by N. from Uppingham. In the reign of Edward
the Second the manor is described as appertaining
to the alien priory ol Cluny, in Burgundy ; and, by
referring to an ancient authority, we find that as early
as the reign of Henry the Third, it belonged, with
one half of Mautou, to that abbey.
RUTLANDSHIRE.
147
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SHROPSHIRE.
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GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.
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TH5E county of Salop, or Shropshire, is bounded,
on the north, by Denbighshire, by the detached
part of Flintshire, and by Cheshire; on the east, by
Staffordshire ; on the south, by Worcestershire and
Herefordshire; on the west, by Radnorshire, Mont-
gomeryshire, and Denbighshire. Its shape is that
of an irregular parallelogram, somewhat approach-
ing to an oval, about forty-four miles long from
north to south, twenty-eight broad from east to west,
and one hundred and thirty-four in circumference.
Its contents are estimated at 897,920 acres, or about
a forty-fifth p;irt of England and Wales. — From
the irregularity of its soil and surface, there is con-
siderable diiference in the climate of this county. On
the eastern side, where the land is worn and flat, the
harvest is frequently ripe a fortnight earlier than in
the middle of the county where the vales are exten-
sive, but the surface less light, and the bottom often
clayey. Both hay and grain are gathered earlier,
in the middle of the county, than on the western side,
where the vales nre narrow, the high lands frequent
and extensive, although the ground is not in general
go stiff. The air is generally very salubrious. The
easterly winds prevail in spring-, and those from the
west in autumn ; but in the opinion of Archdeacon
Plyitiley (;mthor of a " Survey of Shropshire" pub-
lished about the year 1803) the easterly winds are the
most regular ; those from the west generally blow-
ing for a series of years strong and frequent, and
then for a similar period, perhaps five or six years,
less violent and less often. The same may be said
of wet and dry seasons,
WASTE AND WOOD LANDS, &c.] — In the road from
Shrewsbury to Draytoa are several tracts of waste
land, of small value, which might be rendered pro-
fitable, by planting the Scotch fir, or other hardy
trees. The extensive commons, beyond Ciun, to
the borders of Radnorshire, and between Church
Stretton and Bishop's Castle, are much elevated and
well adapted to the depasturing of sheep, to which
they are chiefly appropriated. There are several
extensive mosses, in this county ; and a great num-
ber of smaller ones. The chief district of moorland,
is that which surrounds the -village of Kinnersley,
Formerly there were large tracts from near Bore-
atton to St. Martin's, usually covered with water in
the winter, and frequented by wild fowl innume-
rable. By inclosures and drainage, these have been
rendered of considerable value. Of the commons
which remain, few are of large extent. The
Morf, near Bridgenorth, is one of the most consi-
derable. Within these few years, it was five miles
in length, and two or three in breadth ; but consi-
derable inclosures have recently been made. The
smaller commons are also capable of great improve-
ment, by inclosure.
This county possesses some fine woods of growing
oak ; although large falls of timber are annually
made. There is also much hedge-row timber, con-
sisting chiefly of ash and oak, with a few elms,
beeches, sycamores, and limes. Holly fences were
formerly plentiful, but of late years they have not
been kept up. In the south-west district, birches,
both as trees and fences, are very common. By the
sides of small brooks and rivers, poplars are fre-
quently met with. There are many modern planta-
tions of fir, pine, &c. There are many thousand
acres of coppice- wood, the yearly value of which,
per acre, is estimated at from five to seven shillings ;
but, in consequence of the increased consumption of
coal, the value of this wood for fuel is annually
decreasing. Underwoods, consisting chiefly of oak,
are very extensive. On the side of Shropshire, near
Bewdley in Worcestershire, is a large tract for con-
verting into charcoal, to make bar-iron. Some very
promising young timber-trees have been trained up
in one of these coppices adjoining a park at Kinlet,
Of late years, various ornamental plantations have
been raised, upon different estates, in the county.
MINERALS, FOSSJLS, &c.] — The mineral products
of Shropshire are considerable, consisting of lead,
iron, limestone, freestone, pipe - clay, and coals,
From Hawkeston southwards to Lea, and Grinsbill
hills, extends a band of siliceous freestone, chiefly of
the red kind, except at Grinshill, where there IB a
considerable quantity of white, of which great use has
been made in the bridges, churches, and other modern
buildings of Shrewsbury. Nearly parallel with the
Welch
....
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-^v i ^v jf • -JGJKifv "Tr.'wfMfwf r^ Kfir-attny*.' "\tnu>fi>n .' . . ,*
SHROPSHIRE.
149
Welch border is a band of coal strata, extending
from the Dee to the Severn. Much of this coal is
employed for domestic purpose, and also in the lime-
works of Llany Menech arid Chirk. To the west
of the coal strata, and serving as their foundation,
extends an irregular baad of limestone, in some
places, rising five hundred feet above the level of the
plain, and, in others, scarcely appearing beyond the
surface of the soil. In many parts, this limestone is
in the state of perfect marble ; and, throughout its
extent, small quantities of lead and copper have
been found. The rocks, on both sides of the Severn,
at the entrance of Coalbrook Dale, from Shrews-
bury, are composed of limestone. It is this singular
combination of coal, iron-ore, and lime, with the
advantage of water-carriage, which renders Coal-
brook Dale the centre of the most extensive iron-
works in the kingdom. In less favourable situations,
the ore, from its poorness, would be scarcely worth
the trouble of reducing. Here, however, the flux
and fuel being at hand, it becomes the source of
astonishing wealth, and supports an extensive popu-
lation. Lead is procured, in considerable quantity,
from various parts of the Stiper-stones ; chiefly,
however, from the Snail-beach and Hope mines.
The red-lead ore, in these mines, was first dis-
covered by Raspe, a German mineralogist. — The
numerous and various strata of this county present
a most curious and interesting study to the geolo-
gical enquirer.
PLANTS.] — Many lichens of a rare and beautifnl
kind are found on the rocks and old walls, in various
parts of the county. The plants usually found are
enumerated in the note below.*
MINERAL AND MEDICINAL SPRINGS.] — There are
three remarkable mineral waters in this county, par-
ticularly one at Moreton, near Market- Dray ton,
* Achemilla vulgaris. Common Ladies Mantle; in moun-
tainous meadows, near Bishop's Castle.
Andromeda polijolia. March Andromeda or Wild Rosemary :
at Birch in the moors of Ellesmere, plentifully.
Apium graveoicns. Smallage ; in Stank-mead, near Bishop's
Castle.
Asplenium Ceterach. Common Splecnwort ; on some walls at
Ludlow.
Herberts vulgaris. Barberry, or Pipperidge bush ; in the
hedges by the road side, from New Inn to
Shrewsbury.
Brassica muralis. Wild Rocket ; on the walls of Ludlow
Castle.
Colchicum uittumnale. Meadow Saffron ; in Hope Mead, by
Bishop's Castle.
Conyza s/jtutrroia. Plowman's Spikenard ; in mountainous
pastures and meadows of a rhalky soil : in the
road between Onebury and Ludlow.
Dianthus deltoidts. Maidi'ii Pink ; in sandy meadows and
pastures ; in the lane from Bishop's Castle to
Woodbeach.
Kmpetrum nigrum. Crow, Crake, or Heath Berries: upon
Stepperslone common.
Eriophorum vaginutum. Hair's-tail Rush ; near Ellesmere, in
great abundance.
fumaria clamculata. Climbing Fumatory ; iu the warren near
Bishop's Castle, plentifully.
VOL. IV — NO. 152.
which curdles with soap or milk. It yields a white
sediment with oil of tartar ; and turns green, with
syrup of violets ; and scarlet, with logwood. It is
cooling, duretic, and cathartic ; bearing a great re-
semblance to Holt water, only the taste is more
pungent. At Pitchford, a village six mil<;s south by
east from Shrewsbury, is a pitchy spring which
gives name to the village. It is remarkable for
having a sort of liquid bitumen, fossil tar, or petro-
leum float on the surface of the water. It has
yielded a vast quantity of that substance, but it is
now much diminished. It is said to be excellent for
wounds, and for inveterate scrophufous complaints.
At Broseley, four miles north-east of Wenlock, is a
spring that formerly exhaled a vapour which, when
contracted to a small vent, by an iron cover with a
hole in it, would take fire from the contact of any
flame, at the distance of a quarter of a yard, darting
and flashing in a violent manner to the height of one
hundred and fifty feet. It is said to have been hotter
than common fire, and that it would boil any thing
much sooner. It would atso broil meat without im-
parting to it the least smell or taste of sulphureous
property. The water, however, as soon as the fire
was extinguished, became extremely cold : It was
supposed to be impregnated with petroleum. — There
is a milky water found at SherriffHales, on the bor-
ders of the county, near Staffordshire, amongst the
iron mines. On the fracture of a stone, the miners
meet with a great quantity of a whitish milky liquor,
sometimes to the amount of a hogshead, in the middle
of it. It has a sweetish taste, not unlike that of
vitriol of iron.
RIVERS.] — The Severn is the principal river id
the western part of the island. Its chief source is a
small lake on the eastern side of Plinlimmon, and in
its divious course to Newtown it is called the Hafren.
Galiopsis tetrahit y. Fair-flowered Nettle Hemp ; among the
corn in the soulh-west part of this county,
plentifully.
Hicr&cium paludosum. Succory-leaved mountain Hawkeweed ;
in wet meadows and near rivers.
Hypcricum Androscemum. Tutsan or Park leaves ; in a wood
at Old Church-moor, plentifully.
Elodes. Marsh St. Peter's-worf ; in spongy
putiid marshes at Liddum.
Inula Heknium. Elecampane : in damp meadows and pas-.
tures ; in the wood near Bishop's Castle.
Phallas caninus. Red-headed Morel ; in woods and woody
places, near Shrewsbury.
Pinus Picca. The Female, or Yew-leaved Fir tree ; at
Worton, about two miles from Newport in
Shropshire, plentifully, and at Laynton.
Rubus Idaeus. Raspberry Bush, or Framboise ; near Henley
wood.
Serapias Latifolia y. Marsh Helleborine ; in Oaklywood.
Solidaga Verga. aurea. Golden Rod ; in the woods near
Bishop's Castle.
Vaccinium Vitis idace. Red Whorts or Cranberry ; upon
Stipperstone common.
yerbascum nigrum. Sage-leaved Black Mullein ; in gravelly'
places and highways ; in the road between the
Heath and the Jay.
It
150
SHROPSHIRE.
It there assumes the name of the Severn, and
becomes navigable for barges at Pool. Although
the navigation of this fine river is productive of im-
mense advantages to Shropshire, giving value to
its mines of iron, stone, lead, lime, and coal, and
encouraging manufactures and agriculture by the
facilities it affords of deportation, yet there are in-
conveniencies attending it, which impair and lessen
the benefits it yields. Such are the fords and shoals
frequent in a river whose bed has a considerable de-
clivity ; the deficiency of water in dry seasons, and
the overflow caused by excessive rains ; to these
may be added the mode of towing barges, by men
instead of horses. The establishment of locks and
wears has been recommended to remedy the former
Of these inconveniences ; and the formation of a good
towing path, with the substitution of horses for men,
would be an evident improvement. — The fish found
in this river, in its course through Shropshire, are
salmon, pike, flounders, trout, graylings, and eels.
There are also chub, roach, dace, and some shad;
of the last it is remarked, that unless caught in this
river, or the Wye, they .are scarcely eatable. There
are also some lampreys. The Camlet, the Vyrnwey,
the Tern, the Clun, the Ong, and the Teme, are tri-
butary to the Severn. It is also swelled in its course
by innumerable rivulets and streams which adorn and
fertilize the county.
LAKES.] — These, though neither numerous nor
extensive, form a happy variety in the landscapes of
tlie county. The largest is adjacent to the town of
Ellesmere, and contains 110 acres. There are two
meres near Whitechurch. On the west side of the
county is Marton Pool, containing about 45 acres.
North of the Severn, besides the meres at Ellesmere
and Whitchurch, are Fennymere, Llynelyspool, and
Ancot ; and at Shrawardine, a fine piece of water
covers about forty acres. South of the Severn is
Beaumere, a small but beautiful lake a few miles
from Shrewsbury.
CANALS.] — The difficulties likely to be encountered
in an attempt to form canals in those parts of Shrop-
shire where they were most necessary, were long
considered insurmountable. The high, rugged, and
insulated ridges over which they must pass, with
the difficulty of collecting a body of water sufficient
for the purposes of lockage, were formidable ob-
stacles, that prevented their introduction ; till the
bold and successful ingenuity of Mr. William Rey-
nolds, of Ketley, who had made a navigable canal,
and constructed an inclined plane, with a double rail-
way, by means of which a loaded boat in its descent
drew up another with a load nearly equal to one
third of its own weight. The impression of the
practicability of successfully applying the principle
to the situation of the ground between the Oaken-
gates and the Severn, caused the subscription for
the Shropshire canal. The general direction of
this canal is from north to south : it commences at
a place called Donnington wood, passes through
Wrockwardine, and Snedshill coal and iron-stone
works ; near Oaken-gates it is joined by the Ketley
canal, and, after passing through Ilolingswood, at
Southall-bank, a branch striking off to the right
passes Lightmore and Horsekay iron-works, and
terminates at Brierly Hill, near Coalbrook Dale.
The main line of the canal turning to the left at
Southall-bank, goes on to. the Windmill farm, passes
Madeley, and reaches the banks of the Severn two
miles below the iron bridge ; it terminates at Coal
Port. This canal has one ascent of 120 feet, by an
inclined plane o( 320 yards ; and two descents, one
of 126 feet, by an inclined plane of 600 yards, the
other of 207 feet, by an inclined plane of 350 yards.
The Shrewsbury canal commences, at Wrockwardine
wood, where is an inclined plane of 75 feet fall, 223
yards in length ; from thence it passes Eyton Mill,
to Lang Lane ; it afterwards crosses the river Tern,
at the height of 16 feet above the surface of the
meadow, by means of an aqueduct and an embank-
ment. At Atcham it enters a tunnel 970 yards in
length, at its exit from which, it flows along the
base of Haghmond Hill to Pimley, where, by means
of an aqueduct, it crosses a valley ; passing along
the banks of the Severn it terminates at Shrewsbury.
The Ellesmere navigation may be called a system
of canals, extending through that large and fertile
tract of country, which lies between the banks of
the Severn on the south, and those of the river Mer-
sey on the north, and between the confines of North
Wales on the west, and the borders of Staffordshire
on the east, a space of fifty miles in length, and
more than twenty in breadth, exclusive of the valleys
which open into North Wales. Its grand object is
to unite the Severn, the Dee, and the Slersey, and
by that means to open a communication, from the
above-mentioned district to the ports of Liverpool
and Bristol. A short canal commences at Donning-
ton wood, and proceeds to Pave Lane, near New-
port ; with a branch to the Marquis of Stafford's
lime-works at Lilleshall. In districts where the
inequalities of the surface would not admit of canal,
navigation, another mode of conveyance has been
adopted, by means of iron rail ways, on which arti-
cles are carried in waggons, containing from six to
thirty hundred weight.
ROADS.] — In this county the turnpike roads arc
tolerably good, and are in a general state of im-
provement. The parochial roads are indifferent, the
mending of them being neglected for want of pro-
per surveyors. In many of the middle and southern
parishes there is no tolerable horse-road whatever ;
and in some that have coal and lime, those articles
are, in consequence, almost useless. Finger-posts
are not sufficiently numerous, and they are often
damaged by the mischievous and stupid peasantry.
The mile-stones have the inscriptions, of cast iron,
fixed in the stone.
SOIL, AGRICULTURE, &c.] — In the hundred of
Oswestry there is a considerable quantity of deep
loam and also of gravelly soil. There is also some
marl in that parish ; and in West Felton a large por-
tion
SHROPSHIRE.
fcion of black peaty bog, which has been subjected
to drainage. On the north-west side of the county,
adjoining Denbighshire, the soil lies over strata of
coal and limestone; on the south-cast, it becomes
sandy. Pimhill hundred contains a mixture of boggy
land and sand, lying over a red sandstone, with a j
greater proportion of sound wheat land. North !
Bradford has some low land of a peaty nature, with j
some good meadow land, a considerable quantity !
of sand, and some gravelly soils. Its most profitable j
subterranean earths are, clay for making of bricks ;
marl for improving of lands; and peat or turf for
firing. In the franchise of Wenlock, pale-coloured
clays prevail, though there is some light land, and
strata of coal, or ironstone, and of limestone in great
abundance, covered witli a soil, reduced perhaps by
the operation of the air upon the limestone. In Stot-
tesden, Overs, and Munslow hundreds there is also
much clay and considerable quantities of coal, iron-
stone, and limestone, over which is a stony soil of
great variety. The land which lies over the lime-
stone, or is mixed with it, or with the calcareous
gravel resembling it, is frequently the best in the
neighbourhood. The upper surface of the rocks is
frequently broken up by the plough, and becomes
with the soil a rocky loam, fit for turnips and barley.
Sometimes a slate marl lies under the surface. There
are some sands, lying over a red sandstone, particu-
larly near Bridgenorth, and some clays of a reddish
colour, near Ludlow. In the hundred of Overs, the
TitterstonCleehill rises to a considerable height. Not
far north of it, is the Brown Clee hill ; and from the
south borders of Bradford South, runs a remarkable
ridge of limestone rock. In the hundred of Cun-
dover, there is more Hat land, but still great inequa-
lity of surface. The Lyth hill stands within it ; the
Carodoc and Lawley, which are distinct hills of some
height, and the common of Longmont, connect it, to
the south and west, with the hundreds of Munslow |
and Purslow. In Cundover Hundred there is a good |
deal of gravelly loam, sand, and clay, often inter- [
mingled in very small beds ; clayey soils lying over i
red sandstone, and others with gravel or sand under j
them. In the liberties of Shrewsbury and in the !
hundred of Ford there is also much pebbly loam ; |
some reddish rock and clay, north of Shrewsbury,
and some lighter coloured clays, lying over lime-
stone on the north borders of Ford hundred : its
southern district is very much a deep clayey soil,
with coal under, and becomes at last, gravelly,
rocky, and uneven. The hundred of Chirbury is
still more uneven, but has plains of a deep, light-
coloured loam or clay. Purslow and Chin are !
very uneven ; but several of the hills are smooth,
and afford fine sheep-walks, with a slaty rock un-
derneath, iu some places containing so much silex
as to form good roof-slate, and in others good
building-stone ; but most commonly the rock is ar-
gillaceous. There are some pale-coloured clays in
these districts, and a considerable quantity of lighter
soils, mingled with argillaceous rock, which be-
comes friable on exposure to the air. In the Tales,
the meadow and pasture ground is excellent.
The usual crops in this county are wheat, barley,
oats, peas, and turnips. Hops are grown on a small
part of the Herefordshire side of the county ; but
hemp, flax, and cabbages are obtained only in small
quantities. The culture of potatoes increases annu-
ally. Hay and pasture are much neglected. On the
borders of the Severn and other flat lands contigu-
ous to lesser streams, which occasionally overflow,
and enrich the adjoining lands by their deposit, thera
are natural meadows which are constantly mown
without any other manure being bestowed upon them.
The practice of draining is now generally well under
stood, but in many situations, particularly in clay
countries, the materials, as stone, &c. are very ex-
pensive, occasioned by getting, and the distance
it is to be carried. Thin soil upon clay requires
the drains in many places to be not more than from
six to eight yards asunder, which consumes large
quantities of materials.
CATTLE, &c.] — Of horses, here is no particular
breed. Indeed very few foals are bred in this
county. The supply is chiefly from Derbyshire and
Leicestershire, by which means there are many
valuable teams ; and those farmers who can afford
to purchase find it their interest to have such, oc-
casioned by the restraint laid by the turnpike laws
from not drawing more than four horses. — The
breeding flocks of sheep are few and small where
there are no commons, but are various in their sorts,
as the fancy of the farmer leads him. Those farmers
who have commons generally keep of a size from
II II). to 1 lib. per quarter, and shear about 'Jib. of
wool each. — Upon some commons, the aged wethvr*
do not require much assistance in the winter ; but
the ewes and lambs, with the yearling sheep, arc-
either wintered from home or kept on their own farms.
This sort, which is kept to stock commons, is' gene-
rally sold off or fed upon their own turnips, at from
four to five years old. — The neat cattle, on the north-
east side of the river Severn, are an inferior sort of
the Lancashire long horn, in general for the dairies.'
The. south-eastern part of the district being chiefly
light turnip land, the clover and pasture are mostly
appropriated to the dairies, which are small. The
cheese is ordinary, as much butter is gathered, which
is taken off at a good price in the manufacturing
towns. On the north-west side of this district, and
bordering upon Cheshire, the dairies are much larger,
and chiefly for cheese. Most farmers rear a few
calves yearly for the regular supply of their dairies,
anil the breed is by some made better, by the pur-
chase of bulls from Leicestershire and Lancashire. —
On the south-west side of the Severn, small dairies
are kept both for butter and cheese ; many calves are
reared, the bull calves are cut, and many heifers
spayed ; from three years old to six, they are worked
easily by drawing double, eight in a team, to a single
furrow plough. The capital farmers do not work
them more than six hours at a time; and in, seed
time,
102
SHROPSHIRE.
time, when more expedition is wanted, they change
them by working one team in the morning anil
another in the afternoon.
MANUFACTURES.] — A principal branch of the com-
merce of Shropshire is the staple trade of Shrews-
bury, in flannels and Welch webs. The flannels are
bought at Welch Port, some of them being made,
and more spun, in Shropshire. The webs are brought
from Merionethshire and Denbighshire, to Shrews-
bury, where they are sold in a close market, or
hall, which none but members of the Drapers' Com-
pany can enter. The manufactures of Ketley, and
other places in the iron district, are the most consi-
derable. Garden-pots and other vessels, of a coarse
fabric, are made at Broscley, which is also noted for
excellent tobacco-pipes. At Caughley is a china
manufacture of great excellence. At Coal Port,
that kind of earthern- ware called Green's, or Wedge-
woad's, is made, as well as all others. The lordship
of Carditigton produces quartz and clay, the former
of a superior kind. At Lebotlewood, many branches
of the Hnea-trade are carried on, and a large manu-
factory of coarse linen, and linen thread, has been
established, there. There are several mills for dying
•woollen cloths ill the county. At Coleham, is an
extensive cotton factory, the internal economy of
which is very exemplary.
ETYMOLOGY.] — This county appears to have taken
its name from Shrewsbury, its chief town, the appel-
lation of which was derived from a Saxon word
S*robbesbyrig, signifying a town surrounded with
shrubs, it being situated on a hill formerly covered
with trees and shrubs. It is also called Salop, a
name afterwards given to the principal town by the
Nownans.
GENERAL HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, &c.] — Shrop-
shire, at the period of the Roman invasion, was inha-
bited by the Cornavii and the Ordovices ; the terri-
tory they respectively occupied being divided by the
Severn. Of the Cornavii little is known. The
Ordovices, a warlike and enterprising people, joined
with, the Silures under the renowned British king
Caractacus, in defending their country against its
invaders. — During the time that Britain remained
subject to the Romans, this county formed part ot
the province of Flavia Cresariensis. The principal
stations in Antonine's Itinerary are Uriconium, or
Viroconium, now Wroxeter, Mediolanum,near Dray-
ton, and Rutunium near Wem. The Watling Street
enters the couuty on the east between Crackley
Bank and Weston, and passes through it in a bend-
ing line to Leintwardiue in Herefordshire on the
southern borders. When the Roman empire de-
clined, this portion of the country was the theatre
of long and sanguinary contests between the Britons
and the Saxons, being held by the former as part of
the kingdom of Powisland, of which Pengwerne,
ROW Shrewsbury, was the capital. After a violent
contest of nearly a hundred and fifty years, the
Heptarchy being established, the county again
changed its masters, and was incorporated with
Mercia, the largest, rf not the most powerful of th«
seven kingdoms. The Welch Princes long disputed
these favourite possessions of their ancestors, and
though they were compelled by King Oflfa, and a
confederacy of Saxon princes, to retreat to Mathra-
fael among the mountains of Powis, they frequently
made inroads on their usurping neighbours. The
evils attending these hostilities induced that prince
to cause a deep dyke and rampart to be made, which
extended an hundred miles along the mountainous
border of Wales, from the Clwyddiun Hill* to the
mouth of the Wye-. Part of this Dyke may be
traced at Brachy Hill, and Leintwurdine, in Here-
fordshire, continuing southward from Knighton in
Radnorshire, over part of Shropshire, entering Mont-
gomeryshire, between Bishop's Castle and Newtown.
It is again visible in Shropshire near Llanyraenech,
crosses the race course near Oswestry, descends to
the Ceiriog near Chirk, where it again enters Wales,
and terminates in the parish of Mold, in Flintshire.
The Welch, however, continued their incursions, and
in their hasty retreats frequently carried with-ihem.
immense spoil to their native mountains. — In the
ninth century, when the Danes invaded the island,
this part of the kingdom of Mercia, though it suf-
fered less than ethers, participated in the generaL
calamity, and its chief city, Uriconium, was destroy-
ed. The British town of Pengwerne, to which the
Saxons had given the synonymous name of Scrob-
besbyrig, flourished by its decline ; and Alfred, after
subduing, settling, or expelling the Danes, and con-
solidating the English monarchy, ranked this among
his principal cities, and gave its name to the Shire-
of which it is the capital. The boundaries on the-
western side, however, were still fiercely disputed by
the Welch. In the time of Edward the Confessor,,
their reigning Prince, Griffydd, rendered himself so.
formidable by his predatory inroads, that his name
had become a terror to the English. Harold under-
took an expedition against him by land and sea ; his
light armed troops and cavalry pursued the hardy
Britons into their fastnesses, and harassed them so.
effectually, that they sent to the victorious Chief the
head of their Prince as a token of subjection. In
memory of his achievements, great piles of stones
were erected on many of the mountains of Wales
and Shropshire, inscribed as follows : —
Hie victor fuit Haraldus.
Here Harold was victorious.
Harold afterwards endeavoured to secure the ad-
vantages he had gained, by a decree which forbad
any Welchman to appear on the eastern side of
Offa's Dyke, on pain of losing his right hand. — At
the Norman Conquest, almost the whole of this
county was bestowed on Roger de Montgomery, a
relation of the Conqueror, and one of his chief cap-
tains, as a reward for his services, in assisting in the
conquest, and afterwards in subduing Edric Sylva-
ticus, Earl of Shrewsbury, to whose title and domains
he succeeded. The hostilities of the Welch fre-
quently
SHROPSHIRE.
Jo3
quently disturbed him in the enjoyment of these
splendid acquisitions, and in 1067, Owen Gwinnedd
their prince assaulted the Salopian capital with so
formidahle a force as to require the army, and the
presence of the king himself, to repel and vanquish
them. This discomfiture only served to add fuel to
the warlike spirit of the Welch. The Conqueror
now adopted a politic mode of warfare, and issued
grants to certain of the favourites of all the lands they
should be able to conquer from the Welch. He also
endeavoured to divide and weaken the Welch Border
Chieftains, by promising a confirmation of all their
rights and privileges in return for a simple acknow-
ledgement of dependence on the English crown,
and by threatening the seizure of their possessions
by right of conquest, as a punishment for their refusal
of allegiance. Hence appear to have originated the
seignories and jurisdictions of the Lords Marchers.
— During the time of the Saxons, the Severn was
considered the ancient boundary between England
and Wales ; the lands conquered by Offa on the
western side of that river were annexed to the king-
dom of Mercia, and afterwards incorporated with
the monarchy, by Alfred the Great. The word
Marches, signifies generally, the limits between the
Welch and the English, of which, consequently, the
western border of Shropshire formed a principal
portion. Of the Norman Lords, besides the Earl
of Shrewsbury, who did homage for royal grants
of territory in these and other parts adjoining, were
Fitzalan, for Clun and Oswestry ; Fitzvvnrine, for
Whittington ; and Roger le Strange, for Ellesmere.
The tenure by which these lords held under the king
was " in case of war to serve with a certain number
of vassals, furnish their castles with strong garri-
sons, with sufficient military implements and stores
for defence, and to keep the king's enemies in sub-
jection." For the better security of themselves and
the government of the people, these new lords re-
paired and fortified old castles, erected new ones,
and garrisoned them with their own soldiers. They
also built towns on the choicest spots in the country
for their English followers. Most of the castles on
•the borders of Wales were thus built ; as is evident
from their number, there being thirty-three in this
county alone. The lords marchers regularly held
their baronial courts,, where the inferior lords, who
held of them, were obliged to attend. At -a subse-
quent period, the chief court for the Marchers of
North Wales was held in Ludlow Castle. To this
court appeals might be made, both from the lords
themselves against others ; and also, from the people
against the wrong judgments of the lords. In pro-
* An eminent writer of those times, speaking of the aboli-
tion of this jurisdiction, observes, " that it had proved an
intolerable burthen to Wales and the borders at all times,
and a means to introduce an arbitrary power, especially in
the late reign, when a new convert family were at the head
of it ; nor could the Earl of Macclesfield, the late presi-
dent, who kept his court at Ludlow, reduce it to such
VOL. iv. — NO, 152.
cess of time, as the English arms prevailed, the
dominion of the marches, originally confined to the
line of separation from Wales, penetrated into the very
heart of the country. On the death of Llewelyn, in the
eleventh year of Edward the First, the necessity and
the grants ceased together ; and after this period no
more lords marchers were created. The Welch sub-
mitting to Edward, he took the principality into his
own hands, conferred it on his son Edward, Prince
of Wales, assembled a parliament at Rhudlatn Castle,
and enacted laws for the government of the country
after the English manner. These laws were confirm-
ed on the following year, by the statute of Rutland ;
and, from that period, no lord marcher could exer-
cise any prerogative, not previously confirmed to him,
withdut a special grant from the crown. The power
and consequence of these once absolute baronial
chieftains, being thus curtailed and diminished, gra-
dually declined. By statute 28 Edward the Third,
all the lords marchers were to be perpetually attend-
ing and annexed to the crown of England, as they
and their ancestors had been at all times past, and
not to the principality of WTales, into whose hands
soever it should come ; so that the four counties of
Worcester, Gloucester, Hereford, and Salop, were
never termed the marches of England, but of Wales.
By statute 27 Henry the Eighth, for incorporating
Wales with England, all lords marchers were to
enjoy such liberties, raises, and profits as they had
or used to have, at the first entry into their lands in
times past, notwithstanding that act. However,
the jurisdiction of the president and council of the
marches was abolished by the net of parliament in
the first year of the reign of William and Mary, at
the humble suit of all the gentlemen and other inha-
bitants of the principality of Wales*. The first lord
president, after the re-estahlishinent by Edward the
Fourth, was Earl. Rivers, his brother-in-law; and
the last was the Earl of Macclesfield, whose com-
mission afterwards ran as lord lieutenant of North
and South Wales. — The Welch Chancery Office is
now kept in Lincoln's Inn.
CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS.^ — This
county is included in the Oxford circuit, and the
proviuco of Canterbury. It is divided into fifteen
hundreds, or districts answering to that denomi-
nation ;f viz. Oswestry, Pimhill, Bradford North,
Bradford South, and Brimstry, on the north-east
side of the Severn ; the liberty of Shrewsbury, the
franchises of Wenlock, and the hundred of Stottes-
den, extending on both banks of that river ; the
hundreds of Ford, Chirbury, Cundover, Munslow,
Overs, Purslow, and the honour of Clun, on the
south
order as to cease to be a grievance, and therefore it was
dissolved."
'f The Uev. Archdeacon Plymtey, assigns a very satisfactory
reason for irregularities in these originally ecclesiastical divisions.
He premises, that this county is in p;irt in the three dioceses of
Hereford, of Litchfield and Coventry, and of Si. Asaph. The
detached parish of Hales Owen is in that of Worcester. The
2 ft arch-
151
SHROPSHIRE.
south-west side of the Severn. AH these divisions,
as well as the parishes which they contain, are dis-
proportionate in size and irregular in shape. Seve-
ral of the parishes, in common with those of other
counties, are intersected by other parishes, or have
one or more detached districts. — Altogether, this
county contains 206 parishes, and -21 parts of parishes.
It has 13 petty sessions, and 58 acting county magis-
trates.
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.]— This county
sends 12 members to parliament : 2 for the shire ;
and 2 each for the boroughs of Shrewsbury, Lud-
low, Bishop's Castle, Wenlock, and Bridgenorth.
MARKET TOWNS.] — The following are the market
towns iu this county : —
Population.
Tovns. Market-days. 1S01 1811
Bishop's Castle Friday 1313 1367
Bridaenorth Saturday 4185 43SG
Broselcy Wednesday 4832 4850
Church'Stretton Thursday 924 944
Cleobury Wednesday 1368 1582
Drayton Wednesday 3162 3370
Ellesmere Tuesday 5553 5639
Ludlow Monday 3897 4150
Madely Friday 4758 5076 ^
Newport Saturday 2307 1M14
Oswestry.... Wednesday and Saturday 5839 6733
Shiffnail Friday 4061
Shrewsbury. Wednes.Tlnirs. and Sat... 13,486 16,606
Wellington Thursday 7531 8213
Wein Thursday 3087 3388
Wenlock Monday 1981 2079
\Vhilechurth Friday 4515 5332
MANNERS.] — A modern writer insists, and, we
bt-lieve, with perfect truth, that " no where can be
found a more interesting- picture of the genuine Eng-
lish character than that exhibited in the state of
society in Salop: Its proximity and relation to
Wales probably contribute to preserve the tone
and heighten the colouring. The gentry are not,
perhaps, wholly free from that species of pride,
which, as it consists more in dignity than in haugh-
tiness, may indeed be termed a failing, but can
hardly be deemed a. vice, especially because it does
not tend to impede, but rather to encourage the ex-
ercise of those social virtues, which ameliorate the
condition of the lower classes. The ladies of Salop
rank eminently among the beauties of England, and
are equally distinguished for those mental qualities,
which give lustre to personal charms. The middling
classes partake of the character of the higher orders ;
they are hospitable and intelligent. Their example
and influence operate powerfully in improving the
habits of the labouring poor, and in effacing those
traces of barbarism and vulgarity, which are but
too frequently the reproach of the common people
of these kingdoms. The numerous charitable insti-
tutions, ami the various respectable societies, for the
promotion of useful science, established in the county,
fully attest the truth of this eulogy ; to which we may
he justified in adding, that Shropshire, by its inland
situation, and the independent spirit of its inhabitants,
will, for a longtime, present a formidable barrier to
the corrupting inroads of foreign manners, and the
no loss pernicious progress of domestic luxury."
FAIRS.] — dtttrightdH — May 23, July 1H, Novem-
ber 9, for horned cattle, sheep, and swine at the
proper seasou.
Battlefield — August 2, for horned cattle and sheep.
Bishop's Castle. — Friday before February 13, Fri-
day before (jood Friday, first Friday after May-day,
July 5, September 9, November 13, for sheep, horned
cattle, and horsfs. The day preceding the last three
fairs is for sheep and pigs.
Bridgenoi th — Thursday before Shrove-tide horned
cattle, horses, sheep, hops, cheese, wick-yarn, linen
and woollen cloth; May 1, June 80, ditto, and
sheep's wool, considerable ; August 2, ditto, and
lamb's wool ; October 29, horned cattle, horses,
sheep, butter, and cheese.
Ilroselty, near Cotebrook-dale — Easter Monday.
C/eobnry Mortimer — April 21, October 27, for
horned cattle, sheep, and pigs.
Ciunn— Whit Monday, November 22, for sheep,
horned cattle, and horses.
Ellermere — Third Tuesday in April, Whit Tues-
day, August 25, November 11, for horses, sheep, and
horned cattle.
Hates-Owen— Easter Monday, for horses, toys,
&c. ; Whit. Monday, horses, cattle, sheep, and
cheese.
Ilodn.ett — May 15, and October '20, inconsiderable
fairs.
Lanymynech — May 29, September 29, for sheep,
horned cattle, and horses.
archdeaconry of Salop, in Litchfield ancl Coventry diocese, is
principally within ihe county ; a few of the Shropshire parishes
are in the archdeaconry ol Stafford, one in that of Hereford,
and others in that ot St. Asaplt, which is co-extensive with the
diocese, and the oflu e is there hulden by the bishop. The ec-
clesiastical <leancrii3<, acnin, comprehend parts of different coun-
tii-s and of -different hundreds. The civil division of manors,
though frequently confined to the whole or part of a parish,
Comprehend:, in some instances, parts of two parishes, and has
within it parts of different townships ; and the jurisdictions of
courts- leet, but are not always confined to the hundred in which
they arc situated. He then observes, that the history of that
experience whence our constitution has arisen, points out cir-
cumstances from which these various limitations of district have
grown VV.th respect to parishes, they seem to have originated
at UK- introduction and propagation ot Christianity in these
kingdoms, when lords of manors and persons of extensive landed
property erected churches, as religion advanced, tor the use of,
themselves and of their tenants. To these churches they pro-
cured the tylhes arising from their estates to be paid, which, if
not especially appropriated, would have been paid to the bishop
of the diocese, for the use of the clergy in general, ami for such
piou- purposes as he deemed nece>sary. Now the founder) of
any church would wish that all their lands should pay lythe
thereto rather than to any other, and in preference to their
tythes being applied at the discretion ol the bishop ; so that
where the estate of any founder of a church was scattered, the
districts appropriated to pay tythe to it would be scatltred also ;
and it was from the junction of these circumstances, a church
beiti£ built and a district appointed to pay tythe to its minister,
that parishes had their beginning.
Ludlow
SHROPSHIRE.
Ludlore — Monday before February 13, and Tues-
day before Easter, Wednesday in Wliitsun week,
horned cattle, horses, woollen and linen cloth, and
pigs; August 21, December 28, December 6, ditto,
hops, and fat bogs.
Market Draytuu — Wednesday before Palm Sun-
day, September 19, October 24, for horned cattle,
horses, sheep, hemp u and woollen cloth and pigs.
Neteport — Saturday before Palm Sunday, May
28, July 27, for horned eattle, horses, and sheep ;
September 25, cattle, sheep, and hogs ; December
10, ditto, and fat cattle. When the 10th happens on
a Sunday, it is kept on Saturday the 9th.
Osu-estiy — March 15, for horned cattle, horses,
sheep, pig's, home-made linen cloth, &c. ; great fair,
May 12, ditto, and pedlary, and particularly oxen ;
Wednesday before Midsummer-day, ditto ; August
15, ditto ; Wednesday before Michaelmas-day, ditto ;
December J 1, ditto, tub-butter.
Powder lititck — September 27, for horned cattle, !
horses, and sheep.
liuiton—July 5, for horned cattle, horses, and
sheep.
St. Keti el m's — July 28, for cheese.
Shitfiiail— August 5, for horned cattle, horses,
sheep, and swine ; November 22, for ditto and hops.
Shrewsbury— February 28, horned cattle, horses,
&c. ; if February 28 happens on a Sunday, then the
day before. Saturday after March 15, Wednesday
before Easter week, Wednesday before Whit Sunday,
for horned cattle, (considerable) horses, sheep, cheese,
and linen cluth ; July 3, August 12, horned cattle,
horses, pigs, cheese, linen, sheep, and lambs' wool;
October 2, December 12, horned cattle, horses,
sheep, pigs, butter, cheese, and linen.
Stretton-thurch — May 14, September 25, for horn-
ed cattle, horses, and sheep.
Wattlesbury — August 5, horned cattle, horses, and
sheep.
Wellington — March 29, June 22, November T7,
for horned cattle, horses, sheep, and swine.
Wem — May 6, Holy Thursday, for horned cattle,
horses, sheep, linen, and flax-seed ; June 29, Novem-
ber 22, for horned cattle, horses, linen-cloth, pigs,
and swine.
IVenlock — May 12, cattle, horses, and sheep ; July
5, sheep ; October 17, December 4, horned cattle,
horses, sheep, pigs, and swine.
IVestbnry— August 5, for sheep, horned cattle, and
horses.
Whit church— Whit-Monday, October 28,for sheep,
horned cattle, horses, swine, flaxen and hempen cloth,
and some woollen.
POPULATION.] — The population of, this county
amounted, in the year 1700, to 101,600 ; in 1750,
to 130,300; in 1801, to 167,639; and, in 1811, as
appears in the table below, to 194,298. — Its births
are in the proportion of I to 36 ; deaths, as 1 to
57 ; and marriages, as 1 to 143.
Summary of the Population of the County of SALOP, at published by Authority of Parliament, in 1811.
HUNDREDS, &c.
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
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Inhabited.
ri : .
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of
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£ c cc
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-3SH*
— en •* 'C
Bradford, North
4155
5047
3664
604
939
1067
1795
2993
450
• 2019
1756
2224
978
851
3509
3455
4474
6422
3924
636
1075
1253
1892
3223
492
2126
1902
2313
1073
1105
3980
3569
23
32
30
3
5
6
16
21
2
S
9
1 1
5
11
26
11
79
170
136
y
15
8
43
92
15
25
3S
106
44
15
76
258
2169
IK31
1491
432
719
798
1402
Iti93
356
1318
1230
1331
81
14
981
847
1378
3557
2173
186'
230
311
319
1062
124
743
383
630
870
246
2516
2016
927
1034
260
IS
126
144
171
468
12
65
289
352
122
845
483
706
10872
15560
9659
1733
2808
3109
4656
7414
1344
5371
4984
5779
2006
1810
S374
8402
1961
1 1598
15779
9785
1645
2774
3084
4714
7971
1283
5569
4986
5976
2380
2340
10169
8403
22470
31339
19444
3378
5582
fil93
9370
1 5385
2627
61940
9970
11755
4386
4150
18543
16805
1961
DittoSouth
I'.niliill
borough of Kridgenorth
Diuo and Liberties of... )
Town and Liberties ot.... )
Wenlock \
Local Militia
Totals
35506
39459
219
1129 16693
16744 6022 95842 98456
194298
CHIEF
15(3
SHROPSHIRE.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, lie.
ACTON Bi;n?iEL.] — What remains of A ckm Burhel
Castle, seven miles W. N. W. from Much Wenlock,
is a square building, having a square tower at each :
corner. The walls aro strong, and adorned with
fine battlements, and rows of windows ornamented j
with carved work. A session of parliament was i
held there in 1284. The lords sat in the castle, and i
the commons in a large barn, the remains of which i
are still seen.
BATTLEFIELD.] — At this place, four miles N.N.E. '
from Shrewsbury, was fought the memorable battle
of that town ; and on the spot, Pennant observes, .
probably most stained with blood spilled in his bad
cause, Henry erected the collegiate church of Bat-
tlefield. The statue of this prince stands in a niche
•over the great east window. The nave and steeple
of the church ;irc both ruinous, and deprived of their
roofs. As it is slill parochial, the chancel, which '
was fitted up in the lust century in a modern and
incongruous manner, is used for the celebration of
divine service. When the edifice was entire, the
choir was furnished with handsome stalls, and the
•windows were resplendent with finely painted glass. |
At the shameful mutilation of the venerable fabric, i
this glass was entrusted to the care of a neighbour- !
ing farmer, and when it was to be replaced a few '
fragments only could be found, which, now fixed in j
the east window, excite regret for the destruction of j
the rest. In a plot of ground adjoining the church-
yard, there is a mound of earth, where the slain in j
the battle are said to have been buried. A grove of
young oaks grows there, and the rank grass waves i
luxuriantly over the mouldering remains of chivalry, j
embodied in these heroes.
BUILDWAS.] — At this little place, on the banks of ;
the Severn, four miles N. E. by N. from Much
Wenlock, was formerly a bridge of antique con-
struction, with narrow arches, which obstructed the
navigation. It was destroyed by a flood in 1795,
and replaced by one of iron, the span of which is ,
one hundred and thirty feet, and its rise twenty-four. ;
Buildwas is celebrated for the remains of an Abbey
of Cistercians, founded by a Bishop of Chichester in
1135, and subsequently enriched by many noble
donations both from princes and subjects. The walls
of this edifice are still almost entire. A crypt under
the south wing of the transept is converted into a
beer cellar ; the area of the cloister is a farm-yard ;
and the abbot's lodge is a dwelling-house. These
remains are interesting, and the view of them strik-
ing from several points, particularly the west end,
whence the huge pillars, with their bold arches and
projecting capitals, recede in long perspective, ter- j
initiated by a massive fragment of the tower, hanging
over the ruins below, and nodding to the fall. The
mantling ivy there climbs and triumphs " on walls
falling to ruin ; and nature smiles at art's undoing."
BIRCHES.] — This place, probably so called from
some large birch trees which formerly grew here,
is situated between Buildwas and Coalbrook Dale.
In 1773, it was the scene of a violent convulsion of
nature, the effects of which were similar to those of
an earthquake. By this a large body of earth was
precipitated into the Severn, which, thus obstructed,
sought a new channel ; a tract of country comprizing
eight fields was broken into small parcels, between
which yawned chasms of considerable depth and
width ; a road which ran parallel to the river was
destroyed to a considerable extent ; a part appeared
mixed with a mass of soil, shrubs, and trees, and some
of it had wholly disappeared. The whole length of
this scene of desolation was three hundred and
twenty-one yards along the road. A detailed de-
scription of . the spectacle that presented itself when
Nature's throes had subsided, would be a picture of
chaos. A barn, after travelling thirty-five yards,
was swallowed up ; a dwelling was removed a short
distance from its original site, but remained stand-
ing. The inhabitants fled, but were so terrified by
the danger which threatened them, that they were
afterwards unable to describe any of the circum-
stances which they witnessed. The bed of the river
was so shaken that fragments of the rock which com-
pose it, and a whole tree which was known to have
lain there, were heaved with its foaming waters to
a considerable height, and remained at some dis-
distance from the bank many feet higher than the
surface of the stream. It was decided by those who
took most pains to examine the effects of this war
of the elements, which did not last more than fifteen
minutes, that it was a slight earthquake, accom-
panied by an eruption of confined air. This gust
was so pestiferous, that it blasted a yew and two
other trees ; and so violent that the windows of a
house that stood near the chasm from which it issued
were shaken and rattled as if beaten by hail -stones.
The shock and its effects were slightly felt at a dis-
tance of twelve miles, which would not have happened
had it been caused by the fall of an external body
of matter.
BISHOP'S CASTLE.] — This town, 21 miles S. W.
from Shrewsbury, and 157f N. W. by W. from Lon-
don, had its name from a castle, long since demo-
lished, which was the country residence of the
Bishops of Hereford. The corporation sends two
members to parliament. This placegave birth to
Jeremiah Stephens, the learned and industrious
author of several works on theology, and eccle-
siastical and common law : he died at Wotton, in.
1661.
BOSCI.-BF.L HOUSE.] — This ancient building, still
preserved in a good condition, is remarkable for the
asylum it afforded to Charles II. after the defeat of
his troops at Worcester, and stands 6{ miles E. by
W. from Shiffnall, near the village of Tongue, on
the very borders of Staffordshire. The particulars
of the King's flight and escape, with the assistance
he received to that end from several unlettered pea-
sants, in whose breasts the steady and pure flame of
loyalty was not to be extinguished by the temptation
of a large reward for treason, form an interesting
and
SHROPSHIRE.
J*7
and curious narrative. Four brothers of the name {
of Pendrill, with (heir brother-in-law, named Francis j
Yates, unreluctantly yielded up their little store of :
cloaths and money, to disguise his majesty, and '
afford means of escape ; hazarded their lives to con-
ceal him, and thought themselves richly rewarded
by his thanks, and the success of their humble but
vigorous exertions. Disguised in the habit of a
wood-cutter, the king remained at Boscobel five
days, until the first ardour of his pursuers was
cooled, and then retired to Mosely, a more secure
retreat. Whilst at the former place, he sometimes
retired into the neighbouring wood, where he as-
cended an oak tree ; hut his usual hiding places were
in a giirret, Mid in and near a large chimney, which
have been preserved with care through all the altera-
tions which the interior of the house has undergone.
The owner of the house was Charles Gitford, Esq.
who was also a principal in the preservation of his
sovereign. His Majesty's adventures in the oak are
thus related : " After a short conference, and but
inchoated counsel of the king's probablest moans of
escape, it was resolved by them to betake themselves
to the wood again, and accordingly about nine o'clock
that Saturday morning, the sixth of September, they
•went into the wood, and Colonel Careless brought
and led the king to that so much celebrated oak,
where before he had himself been lodged By
the help of William Pendrill's wood-ladderj they
got up into the boughs and branches of the tree,
which were very thick and well-spread, full of leaves,
so that it was impossible for any one to discern
through them. Here the King, being accommo-
dated with pillows, fell asleep for some hours, and
awaking very hungry, was regaled by the Colonel
with a luncheon of bread and cheese, with which
Pendrill's wife had furnished him. Meantime a
messenger, who had been dispatched to Wolver-
hampton to inquire after means for furthering their
escape, retnrned with intelligence that Mr. Whit-
grave, of Mosely, was well disposed to assist them."
The Royal Oak, said to have sprung from an acorn
ot that which sheltered the king, stands near the
middle of a large field adjoining the garden. The
ruinous wall surrounding it has been rebuilt, and the
following inscription on a brass plate is affixed to
Feliciss. arbore qua in asilu
Potenliss. reals Car. 2di Deus Op. Max.
per queni regrs regnat, his crescere
voiuit, tarn in perpel. rei tantae
memoria qiiaiii in specimen firmse
in rege rklei, muro cinctam
posleris comradmt Besilius •
et Jana Fituherbert.
Quercus arnica Jovi*.
Translation.— Ba>il and Jane Fitzlierbert recommend to
posterity this most fortunate Tree, which the All-gracious and
Almighty God, by whom Kings reign, ordained here to grow
to be the Asylum of the most potent Prince. Kins Charles 11
VOL. IV.— NO. 152,
White Ladies Priory is a picturesque ruin, in a
sequestered and romantic spot, about three quarters
of a mile from Boscobel. It was inhabited by White
or Cistercian nuns as early as the reign of Richard
the First, or John. The circular arches in the walls,
without pillars, indicate it to be of Saxon origin.
The place is extra-parochial, and the area of the
church is still used as a burying-grouud, chiefly for
those of the Catholic persuasion.
BIUDGENORTH.] — The market town of Bridge-
north, anciently Bruges, is seated upon, or rather
divided by, the Severn ; and the two parts are dis-
tinguished by the names of the higher and lower
town ; the former standing upon a hill which rises
sixty yards above the bed of the river. It is '22*
miles S. E. by E. from Shrewsbury, and 189{ N.W.
from London. The situation of this place has been
compared by travellers with that of the old Jerusa-
lem. It contains two churches, one of which is
embellished with a very handsome Grecian altar*
piece ; the other, standing near the site of the rustic,
was originally a chapel within its walls. The castle
was strong, and sustained several sieges, during
one of which, when it was obstinately defended by
Hugh de Mortimer against its royal owner, Henry II.
an instance occurred of romantic loyalty and self-
devotion which has few parallels in history. Hubert
de St. Clare, governor of Colchester castle, per-
ceiving one of the enemy o« the point of letting fly
an arrow at the king, stepped before his majesty,
and receiving the weapon in his noble heart, pre-
served his master's life at the expence of his own.
During the civil wars, it was besieged by the par-
liamentary forces, and the governor then burned
the town to prevent the assiegants from approaching;
under cover of the houses. This siege lasted a
month; but the castle was- • at length taken and
nearly demolished. When visited by Grose, nothing
remained of this fortress but a tower, which, by un-
dermining it, had been made to incline seventeen
degrees from the perpendicular ; this position it still
maintains : such is the strength of the masonry and
the depth of the foundation ! The houses in the
higher town are founded upon the rock, and most
of the cellars are hewn out of it. There is an ex-
traordinary passage from the town to the bridge,
being a hollow way hewn twenty feet through the
depth of the rock ; and the descent is made easy by
steps and rails. Charles the First said he esteemed
Bridgeuorth the most pleasant place in all his domi-
nions. The streets of this town are paved with
pebbles, and the houses are well built. It is governed
by two bailiffs, elected out of twenty-four aldermen,
who must have gone through all the offices of the
town ; by a jury of fourteen, together with forty-
eight common-council men, a recorder, town clerk,
and have begirt it with a wall, aswell in perpetual remembrance
of so great an Event, as a Testimony of their tirm Allegiance
to Kings.
The Oak belov'd by Jove.
2* &c.
158
SHROPSHIRE.
&c. It sends (wo members to parliament. The
corporation lias many ancient privileges, granted by
various charters, with a free-school for the sons of
the burgesses. Here are meeting-houses for Pres-
byterians, Baptists, Independents, Wesleyans,
Quakers, &c.
This town, which is now a place of great trade,
both, by land and water, was built by Ethelfleda,
daughter of Alfred the Great. Bishop Gibson sup-
poses it to be the Ghatbrigge of the Saxon Chroni-
cle, where the Danes built a castle in the year 896 ;
and some historians, under the same idea, call it
Brugge. This derivation is strengthened by the
circumstance of Quat and Quatford, being within a
mile or two of the town. It may, however, have
derived its present name from its bridge over the
Severn. — The late celebrated Dr. Percy was a native
of this town*.
The neighbouring parishes of Quatford and Erd-
ington, contain but few houses. In Leland's time
were to be seen the ruins of the manor-place of
Robert de Montgomery, who first founded the church
of St. Mary Magdalene. In 1763, on rebuilding the
•church of Quat, a village about one mile farther,
•were found a number of figures painted on the walls,
representing the Seven Charities and the Day of
Judgment ; and, on a piece of vellum nailed to an
oak board, the figure of our Saviour rising from the
sepulchre. Under the figure appeared the following
INSCRIPTION.
" Saynt Gregory and other popes
and byschops grantcs sex and
twenty thousand zere of pardonz,
thritti dayes to aile that sales devou-
telye knelyng afor y" is ymage fife
paternosters, fyi'e aves, & a Cred.
©ver the head of the figure,
ihs is my lorde & lyff.
* The Right Rev. Thomas Percy, D.D. Lord Bishop of
Dromore, in Ireland, died at his palace there, September 30,
1811, in the 83d year of his age. This venerable prelate was born
at Bridgenorth, Salop, and educated at Christ's church, Oxon.
In July 1753, he proceeded M.A. ; in 1756, his college pre-
sented him to the vicarage of Easton Mauditt, in Northampton-
shire, and the Earl ot Sussex gave him also the rectory of ;
Wilbye, in the same county. Being a Shropshire man, he
formed an intimacy with Shenstone; he was likewise well ac-
quainted with Johnson, Reynolds, Goldsmith, and those other
distinguished characters who shone in the literary galaxy of that
time.— In 1761, he published, " Han Kion Chouan," a transla-
tion from the Chinese. In 1762, he gave the world a collection
of "Chinese Miscellanies;" and 'in 17C3, "five Pieces of
Ruuic Poetry." In 1764, lie published a new Version of the
Song of Solomon, with a commentary and annotations. In the
year following, appeared his " Reliques of ancient English
Poetry:" this work was his master-piece. He became the
founder of a new school of literature. His followers and imita-
tors have been numerous, but Percy's ' Reliqnes' still form the
'most pleasing collection of the sort. His skill in black letter
lore, must have been very great, for he ascended, all at' once,
to the summjt of excellence in this department of study. In
the same year he compiled and published a most useful book,
intituled " A Key to the New Testament," which proved that,
however much attached he was to the ' belles-lettres,' he did
not neglect his proper professional studies. After the publica-
Some years ago, a sword was found in the Severn
by this place, the only ford on that river for several
miles, and supposed tlie only sword of the sort yet
found in Britain, the metal agreeing with those found
in Ireland, and with those brought by Sir William
Hamilton from Cannae ; but the size and shape dif-
ferent.
Morfe, near Quatford, which was in Leland's time,
" a hilly ground, well wooded ; a forest or chace
having deer," has not at present a single tree. It
had its forester and steward from the time of Edward
the First to Elizabeth. King Athelstan's brother is
said to have led a hermit's life in a roek, here. The
place is still called the hermitage, and is a cave. in
the rock. Here are five tumuli in quincunx. In
the middlemost, at about nine yards over in the
depth of one foot to the solid rock, was found only
an iron shell of the size of a small egg and supposed
the boss of a sword, and, in a hollow in the gravel,
some of the larger vertebras and other human bones,
as in the other tumuli. — A few miles northward stood
the ancient mansion of one of the oldest families in
England, the Gatacres of Gatacre ; the walls of
which were remarkable on account of their being
built of a dark grey free-stone coated with a thin,
greenish, vitrified substance, about the thickness of
a crown-piece, without the least appearance of any
joint or cement to unite the several parts ef the
building, so that it seemed one entire piece. The
hall was nearly an exact square, singularly construct-
ed. At each corner, and in the middle of each side,
and in the centre, were immense oak trees hewed
nearly square, and without branches, set with their
heads on large stones, laid about a foot deep in the
ground, and witli their roots uppermost, which roots,
with a lew rafters, formed a complete arched roof.
The floor was of oak boards three inches thick, not
sawed but plainly chipped.
tion of his ' Reliques,' he was appointed domestic chaplain to
the Duke of Northumberland, with whom he resided many
years. In 1769, he published a sermon preached before the
sons of the clergy. In 1770, he edited that very curious work,
" the Northumberland Household Book ;" and in the same
year printed his charming poetical legend, " the Hermit of
\Varkworth ;" also a Translation of Mqlfet's Northern Antiqui-
ties, with notes. In 1769, he became chaplain in ordinary to
his Majesty; a most agreeable appointment in those days, when
(he-chaplain's table was kept at St. James's, and their room was
resorted to by the lirst literary characters of the time. In 1778,
Dr. Percy became Dean of 'Carlisle, and, in 1782, he was con-
secrated Bishop of Dromore. Here he constantly resided, and
performed all the duties of his high station with primitive zeal,
and acknowledged ability, adored by the poor, and revered by
persons of every rank and religious denomination. For some
jears previous to his decease he was deprived of sight ; but he
never lost an habitual cheerfulness, which well became so good a
man. His mind was abundantly stored with learning of every
species ; and he possessed a ;;reat fund of literary anecdote. He
was ever ready to communicate information to all who asked
for it, and numerous were the applications of this kind. He
was a married man ; his wife was nurse to one of the Royal
children ; his only son died ; two daughters survive him. both
married ; one to S. Isted, Esq. of Ecton, Northamptonshire,
and the other to the Hon. and Rev. Pierce Meade, Archdeacon
of Dromore.
Four
SHROPSHIRE.
15!)
i. Four miles eastward from Quatford, is n quadran-
gular Roman camp, called the Walls. There have
beeii tour elates or entrances : one in the middle of
the north front from Chesterton, a small village,
another in the middle of the west, a third in the
south-east, and a fourth in the north-east corner.
The rock is every where, except on the north-east,
a precipice of fifty or sixty yards perpendicular. On
the east side a passage leads down to a rivulet
below called Stratford. — Beside these a sloping way
is cut through the bank, and down the rock in the
middle of the south face, to the water, which sur-
rouii'ls part of the west, all the south and east, and
part of the north sides of the camp, rendering it
strong and inaccessible. The west side has been
doubtly fortified with a deep trench cut out of the
solid rock between two ramparts. To the north it
has only one bank, of the height of the innermost on
the west. Its outer bank may have been levelled
for the farm buildings, at Chesterton. More than
twenty acres are inclosed and ploughed within the
Walls. No coins or antiquities have been found
there.
In this neighbourhood, on the northern banks of
the Teme, which here quits Shropshire, rise the bold
and commanding Clee Hills, reckoned amongst the
highest hills in the county, and seen in a circumfe-
rence of sixty miles.
BURCOTT.] — At Burcott, in the parish of Wor-
field, (3| miles N. E. by E. from Bridgenorth) were
discovered in 1809, the remains of a semicircular
cave, containing some human bones, such as the
vertebra, two finger-bones, a leg-bone, an arm-
bone, and several ribs scattered in various directions.
In the interior of this cave, on -a ledge of the rock,
lay two human skulls near each other; with (lie
«calp-bone of a child, the skull and jaw-bone of a
dog, thosi! of a sheep and a pig, and one of some
small animal. The human bonus were buried in a
stratum of a kind of chalk, which had acted as a
preservative ; the teeth and roof-bone being sound,
and the enamel of the teeth but little injured. A
hearth was also found, with a few bits of charcoal,
and two small fire-flints. A third skull was dis-
covered at the inner extremity of the cave, similarly
incrusted, and equally well preserved : this appeared
to have belonged to a young person. It was sup-
posed that this cave had been used for purposes of
druidical worship and sacrifice, soon after the intro-
duction of Christianity, when these pagan rites were
performed in secret. Some conjectured, that it had
been a Saxon cottage, and that it was demolished by
a convulsion of the rocks. Others presumed, that
these may have been the bones of wood -cutters, who,
with their families, made the cave a place of occa-
sional residence, and met their fate by its fall. There
was a conjecture as probable as all these, that the
cave was the resort of banditti, who thus received
the punishment which their crimes deserved.
CAUSE CASTLE.]— 'hn's fortivss, in the village of
Westbury, in the hundred of Ford, is supposed to
have been erected by Roger Corbett. From its
proximity to the Welch frontier, it was often cap-
tured by that nation, and frequently changed its
lawful owner : its present possessor is Lord Vis-
count Weymouth. The site of this castle, perhaps
one of the most lofty and commanding of the Salo-
pian frontier, is an insulated ridge, rising abruptly
from a deep ravine on one side, and by a sloping
ascent from a valley on the olher : the castle itself
is a ruin that excites little interest, having been
stripped of all its dressed stone ; part of a well
is distinguishable, and one of the entrance gate-
ways of a later date than the original building, is
still to be discerned.
CHIRBURY.] — This pleasant village, 2f miles N.
N.W. from Bishop's Castle, is situated in a fertile
vale, on the borders of Montgomeryshire. Its chief
architectural antiquity are the remains of a priory
of Austin Canons. The nave of its church forms
the present parish church. At the west end is a
handsome square tower, with eight short pinnacles,
and an open-worked battlement. A handsome point-
ed arch north of the church, and some walls, are
the only remains of the priory. Chirbury is chiefly
noted as having given a title of honour to the cele-
brated Edward Lord Herbert, whose learning and
chivalry rendered him admired in every civilized
nation in the world.
CLEOBURY MORTIMER.] — This place, 13 miles E.
from Ludlow, was, in Leland's time, only a poor
village, but it is now a market town. It had the
suffix Mortimer from having once belonged to the
noble family of that name. The church is neat, and
on its north side is a free-school, founded by Sir
Robert Childe, one of the masters in chancery,
who left three thousand five hundred pounds for its
support.
CLUN.]— This is a small town on the river Clun,
or Colun, from which it has its namo, five miles from
Bishop's Castle. It has nothing remarkable except
its castle, which has been a ruin for several ages.
It is now possessed by the family of Clive. The
Duke of Norfolk, whose ancestors once held this
place, still retains the title of Baron of Clun.
CoALBROOK DALE.] — This place, celebrated for its
iron bridge over the Severn, is a winding glen,
between two vast hills, about a mile from Madeley
market. Here are the most considerable iron -works
in England. The bridge was laid in 1779. All the
parts having been cast in open sand, and a scaffold
erected, each part of the rib was elevated to a proper
height by strong ropes and chains, and then lowered
till the ends met in the centre. All the principal
purls were erected in three months, without the
It-ast obstruction to the navigation of the river. The
road over this bridge, made of clay and iron slag,
is twenty- four feet wide, and a foot deep. Each
carriage that passes, pays a toll of one shilling.
DRAYTON.] — This is a clean little market town,
supposed to have been formerly of much greater
extent and importance, from the vestiges of old
foundations
160
SHROPSHIRE.
foundations in the fiekls around. It lies IQ{ miles
N. E. from Shrewsbury, and 159J N. W. by N. from
London. The parish church, built in the reign of
Stephen, was, iul787, despoiled ofits Gothic honours,
and repaired in a modern style.
ELLESMERE.] — This town, which has its name
from the great mere or lake that washes it, is 17
miles N.N.VV. from Shrewsbury, and 178| N. W.
from London. Having the kings of England for
its immediate lords, it was often given by them as
a marriage portion with their sisters or daughters
to the Princes of Wales, though they always re-
served the right of resuming possession, because of
its importance as a frontier town. This frequently
happened till the reign of Henry III. after which
period, we hear no more of its being in the hands
of the Welch. The castle being a fortress of some
strength, the history of Ellesiuere is most interest-
ing at those periods, when civil war raged in the
nation. Governors were appointed by the crown
from the time when the Welch princes were dis-
possessed of it, till the reign of Edward III. when
it was given to Lord Eubale le Strange ; in fee, from
whom it descended by heirship, or marriage, to the
Earls of Derby. One of these, in the reign of Eliza-
beth, alienated the castle and manor to Richard
Spencer, Esq. and Edward Savage, after which we
bear no more of the former, and even its ruins have
Tiow disappeared. The church is a spacious build-
ing in Ihe form of a cross. The tracery of the great
eastern window is remarkable for its beauty, and the
ceiling of a chapel south of the chancel is enriched
•with Gothic fret-work. The whole edifice is vene-
rable ; but the interior is miserably deformed by
mean pews and galleries.
ERDINGTON.]— See Bridgcnortb.
HALES OWEN.] — The market town of Hales Owen,
is pleasantly situated in a valley, 22 miles N N. E.
from Worcester, and 124 N. W. from London, it
has some good houses, and is a favourite residence
of several respectable families. It was formerly
noted for its great abbey of Pra?monstratensian
canons, which, from its remains, appears to have
been a stately and extensive edifice. The parish
church is a fine structure, admired for its beautiful
spire, which is supported by four curious arches.
The Leasowes, once the property and favourite
residence of Shenstone, is in the neighbourhood.
* Si. Kenelm was the only son of Keiuilf, king of the Mer-
clans, who died 819. Kenelm, then a chiUI of aboyt seven
years of age, was murdered by the artifice of his eldest sister
Quendrida, assisted toy the young king's guardian or tutor, As-
cobert, \vhotook him into Clentwooil, under pretence of limit-
ing, and there tut off Ins head, and buried him under a thorn
trie. The account given cf the discovery <jf this murder, toy
William of Malmesbury and Matthew of Westminster, is a
curious instance of the superstition of the times: — After the
perpetration of this bloody deed, the inhuman sister soon seized
the kingd&m, and j>rohibited all enquiry alter her lost brother.
But this horrible tact, concealed in England, was made known
at Rome by a supernatural revelation ; lor, on the altar of St.
Peter there, a white dove let fall a paper, on which, in golden
On retiring to this, his paternal estate, he devoted
himself to the improvement of its natural beauties,
•.v it'll all the characteristic ardour of a poetical ima-
gination. Walks, judiciously disposed— seats, placed
at points convenient for viewing the rich prospects of
the country around — and inscriptions, partly the pro-
ductions of his own elegant muse, and partly selected
from the best classic authors, inspired the doubly-
enchanting idea of Parnassus and Arcadia. But
his taste, bis liberal hospitality, and his indulgence
to his dependants, ruined his fortune ; and, by his
•will, he appropriated his whole estate to the payment
of his debts. There are still vestiges of his taste
and genius ; and, though the place has lost much of
its interest since the poet ceased to inhabit it, yet
it will always be considered as sacred to his memory.
St. Kenelm's chapel, in this parish, is an ancient
structure, consisting of a single aisle. Its southern
entrance is Saxon. The tower is an elegant speci-
men of Gothic architecture. On the outside of the
chapel wall, is carved a rude figure of a child ; and,
over its head, a crown projecting considerably from
the wall. The learned Adam Littleton was born in
this parish. He was educated at Westminster
School, of which he subsequently became head-
master. - He was, also, one of the King's chaplains,
sub-dean of Westminster, and rector of Chelsea.
He was a man of great and various erudition, well
skilled in the oriental languages, and in rabbinical
learning.
HAWKSTONE.] — Hawkstone Park, long the resi-
dence of the ancient family of the Hills, is a spot
celebrated for its extraordinary combination of natu-
ral and artificial beauties. It lies about nine miles
south of Wiiitchim.-h. The mansion is a modern
edifice, situated on the sloping side of a romantic
eminence. To the west is a fine portico, the pillars
of which, of the Composite order, are lofty and
graceful. The interior of the house corresponds
with its external beauty. The saloon and chapel
are worthy of particular observation. On the ceil-
ing of the latter is a painting emblematical of the
Reformation ; Truth is seen appealing to Time for
bringing her to Light, and Falsehood taking flight.
The saloon is adorned with some valuable paintings,
in one of which, (" the Siege of Namur,") are por-
traits of King William, the Elector of Bavaria, the
Duke of Marlborough, Count Cohorn, and the
letters, was 'inscribed both the death of Kenelm and the place
of his burial. ' In Clent cow-b.-.tche, Kenelme, king bearne,
lyetlt under a thorne, heaved and bereaved.' The Roman
priests and monks not understanding this inscription, an Eng-
lishman, acridently present, interpreted it. The pope sent
over an envoy to the English kings, to iniorm them.com erning
the murdered Kenelm. The whole being thus miraculously
revealed, the body was taken out of the hole where it had been
hid, and with great solemnity carried to Winchekombe, in
Gloucestershire, of his father'*" foundation. , did there buried."
The chapel is said to stand where the body was found ; and the
well which gushed out is now dry, and nearly covered with
bushes and briers.
Right
.
SHROPSHIRE.
161
Right Hon. Richard Hill. Nearer to the summit
of the hill stands the summer-house, a neat octa-
gonal structure of free-stone, its interior decorated
with painting's in fresco. The spot commands an
extensive and beautiful prospect of the demesne,
the Broxton Hills, and Dehunere Forest. A beau-
tiful lawn extends to the verge of a deep valley,
called the Gulf, along which runs a rising walk ;
this leads to a stupendous cliff", along the bottom of
•which it gradually ascends in total darkness for one
hundred yards, and terminates in a grotto, the roof
of which is supported by pillars left standing at its
formation. This cave is decorated, in a varied
manner, with costly shells, petrifactions and fossils ;'
on which the light, admitted through small windows
of stained-glass, sheds the richest tints. A door
opens to the west, and a colonnade of rude pillars
leads to the verge of a precipice ; the descent from
this height is by a large flight of steps, winding
round a mass of free-stone. Two seats are cut
opposite to each other, in tire enormous shelves that
overhang it, and are called the vis-d-vis. The next
object of curiosity is a natural cave, among rugged
dirt's, called the Retreat, and containing the auto-
maton figure of a hermit sitting at a table, on which
lie a skull, an hour-glass, a book, and a pair of
spectacles. Not far distant is a crag, called the
Fox's knob, because a fox, unkennelled there, leapt
from it into the valley beneath, and was killed by the
fall. After passing some distance through a per-
foration in the rock, called St. Francis's cave, a
magnificent prospect bursts on the astonished view,
rendered more enchanting by the contrast it exhibits
to the gloom of the cave. In one of the most roman-
tic parts of the demesne, where yawns a deep and
solemn glen, a Swiss bridge is to lie seen, apparent-
ly slight, but really strong and safe. On a spot near
the highest part of a verdant terrace, stands a lofty
obelisk of free- stone, from the gallery of which, at
the top, may be discovered thirteen counties. The
summit is surmounted by a statue of Sir Rowland
Hill, Lord Mayor of London A. D. 1549. The
Tower, which stands on a high projection of the
terrace, commands a view of the distant town of
Shrewsbury, and of the Wrekin and Stretton Hills.
About a mile from the tower, in a beautiful hanging
wood, called the "Bury Walls," are the remains
of a Roman camp, inaccessible on all sides but one,
and that defended by a triple entrenchment. Within
its area of more than twenty acres, coins and armour
have been found. The beauties, natural and artifi-
cial, of this demesne are so numerous and striking,
that it is impossible to particularize each, and de-
scribe tiie whole with effect. A cavern, said to have
been the hiding place of an ancestor of the family iii
* The following singular story relating to this castle, narrated
on the authority of Mr. Cough, is without date :
One Thomas Elkes, being guardian to his eldest brother's
child, who was young and stood in his way to a considerable
estate, to remove the child he hired a poor bov to entice him
VOL. IV.— NO- 152.
the civil wars ; the Red Castle, now ruinous, ir>
which, when discovered, he was confined ; the Giant's
Well ; near it, an excavation, the walls of which are
of immense thickness ; and numerous striking de-
ceptions, designed by an elegant fancy, and executed
by the masterly hand of art, attract attention, and
excite admiration even in this region of ddight.
One of the beauties of the park is a magnificent
piece of water, extending in length two miles, and
nearly one hundred yards in breadth, its two ends
hidden so as to offer the idea of a navigable river.
The tent in which was signed the convention of El
Arish, brought from Egypt by Colonel Hill, is
pitched in the garden of a small cottage, called
"Neptune's Whim," and built in the style of houses
in North Holland. The present representative of
the family is Sir John Hill, (brother to the late Sir
Richard Hill, Bart, and the Rev. Rowland Hill) of
whose sons, the Hon. Francis Hill was secretary of
legation at the Court of Lisbon, and subsequently
at Rio de Janeiro ; and General Lord Hill has im-
mortalized himself by his achievements in the late
war.
HODNET.] — The manor of Hodnet, six miles S.W.
from Dray ton, was held by the service of one knight's
fee, till the reign of Henry VIII. and Elizabeth,
permitted John Vernon to alienate it. In the twelfth,
of Charles II. Henry Vernon of Hodnet was created
a baronet of this kingdom.
HOPETON.] — The remains of Hopeton Castle, lie
8i miles S. by E. from Bishop's Castle. It was1
taken during the civil war by the royal forces,
and most of the men who composed the garrison
put to the sword. The governor, Samuel Moor,
Esq. was confined as a common prisoner in Ludlow
Castle. It is now a ruin, and the property of Mrs.
Beale, of Heath House.
KINLET.] — The parish of Kinlet lies 8| miles S.
from Bridgenorth. It was once the residence of
the Blomit family, to which have belonged persons
illustrious by almost all the titles of honour our
nation can boast ; and more than once allied by
marriage to royalty itself. In the church, which is
cruciform, handsome, and ancient, are superb monu-
ments of this family.
KNOCKIN CASTLE.] — This castle, six miles S.S.E.
from Oswestry, was built soon after the Conquest by
Lord 1'Estrange, the first of whose family was Guy
1'Estrange, a younger son of the Duke of Bretagne.
The male line of this family failed in John 1'Estrange,
who died in the reign of Edward IV. The castle
was first demolished in the civil wars. in the reign
of John : at present there is scarcely a vestige of it
remaining*.
LEASOWES.] — (See Hales Owen.)
Lll.LESHULL.
into a corn-field to get flowers. Elkes met the two children
in the field, sent the poor boy home, took his nephew in his
arms to the further end of the field, where he had placed a tub
of water, into which putting the child's head, he It-it it there.
The child being missed and enquiry made after him, the poor
2 S boy
KV2
SHROPSHIRE.
LIU.BSHUM..]— -Near the village of Lillcsliull, 2j
tn. S.S.W. fromNewport.in a retired situation, partly
surrounded by woods, are the ruins of Lilleshull
abhey. A very considerable part of the church
remains, from "which a just idea of its original
architecture may he formed. The south door is
certainly one of the most highly adorned Norman
arches in the kingdom. The east window is large,
•with a beautiful pointed arch of the fourteenth cen-
tury, and some remains of tracery. The area of
the" cloister is now a farm-yard, and the refectory a
dwelling-house. The entra'nce of the chapter-house,
a fine Norman arch with undulated mouldings, was
lately standing, and there are still some scattered
portions of other apartments. The abbey and its
estate are now the property of the Marquis of Staf-
ford.
LUDLOW.]— The market-town of Ludlow, called
by the British, Dinau Llys Tywysog, or the Prince's
Palace, and, by the beauty of its site, well deserving
that appellation, stands on an eminence at the junc-
tion of the Teme and Corve, in a fertile and pictu-
resque district on the southern border of the county,
29| miles S. by E. from Shrewsbury, and 143£
N.W. by W. from London. It is about a mile in
length ; in the broadest part, more than half a mile
in breadth, and most of the streets are wide and
well-paved, lying in diverging and inclined direc-
tions from the highest and central part of the town.
The houses in general are neat, well-built, and regu-
larly disposed. The superiority of Ludlow, in this
respect, to most inland towns, of the same antiquity,
may be ascribed to the peculiarity of its origin. The
court, held in its castle, drew thither a concourse of
the higher orders of society, who, in the erection of
dwellings for their occasional occupation, consulted
elegance and order as well as convenience.
The castle, now a desolate ruin, at the north-west
angle of the town, on a hold-wooded rock, at the foot
of which runs the river, was founded by Roger de
Montgomery, soon after the Conquest. From his
descendant, Robert de Belesme, it was seized by
Henry the First; and, becoming thus a princely re-
sidence, it was guarded by a numerous garrison. In
the succeeding reign, the governor, Gervas Paganel,
having traitorously joined the Empress Matilda, King
Stephen besieged and took it. The young Prince
Henry of Scotland, son of King David, who was
actively concerned in this enterprise, having ap-
proached too near the walls of the castle, was caught
from his horse, by means of an iron hook, fastened to
the end of a rope. Stephen, observing the perilous
boy told how he was hired, and where he had left him ; where,
upon search, he was found dead. Elkes fled, and look the
road to London. The neighbours sent two horsemen in pur-
suit, who, riding along the road near South Minis, in Hertford-
shire, saw two ravens sitting on a cock of hay, making an
unusual noise, and pulling the hay about with their beaks;
upon which they alighted, and found Elkes asleep under the
Iiay : he confessed, that these two ravens had followed him
from the lime he did the fact. He was brought to Shrewsbury,
tried, condemned, and hung in chains on Knockin Heath."
situation of the young Prince, boldly advanced and
rescued him, at the risk of his own life. Henry the
Second, about 117(3, presented the castle to his fa-
vourite, Fulke Fitzwarine, surnamed De Dinan, to
whom succeeded Joccas de Dinan. Between him
and Hugh de Mortimer, Lord of Wigmore, terrible
dissensions arose. Mortimer, wandering about
Whitecliffe Heath, was surprised, seized, conveyed
to Ludlow castle, and confined in one of the towers,
which still hears his name.
In the 13th year of the reign of King Henry
the Sixth, the castle was in the possession of Ri-
chard, Duke of York ; and, in 1459, the castle and
the town of Ludlow were given up to plunder. The
King's troops seized every article of value, and the
Duchess of York, and her two sons, wilh the Du-
chess of Buckingham, were for a long time kept close
prisoners in the castle. In the course of the war, it
came into the possession of Edward, Duke of York,
afterwards Edward the Fourth, who then resided at
Wigmore. On his accession to the throne, he re-
paired the castle, and made it the court of his son,
the Prince of Wales, That monarch granted the
first charter of incorporation to the town of Ludlow,
(which had been an ancient corporation by prescrip-
tion,) in consideration of the services which the faith-
ful burgesses of the borough of Ludlow had done in
aid of recovering the rights of the crown. Oh the
death of Edward the Fourth, his son was here pro-
claimed King; and, shortly afterwards, removed to
London, with his brother, at the instigation of his
uncle, Gloucester. — When the feuds of the kingdom
were healed by the union of Henry the Seventh with
a Princess of the house of York, Ludlow castle
again became a royal residence. Arthur, the eldest
son of that monarch, held here a court witli great
splendour and magnificence, after his nuptials with
Catharine of Arragon, the fourth daughter of Fer-
dinand and Isabella. According to Speed, the body
of this young Prince was buried in Worcester cathe-
dral ; but, there is a tradition, that his bowels were
deposited in the chancel of Ludlow church ; and, it
is said, that his heart, inclosed in a leaden box, has
been found.*
In the reign of Henry the Eighth and that of Eli-
zebeth, the lords presidents of the marches held their
courts there with much jjrandeur and solemnity. —
One of the most eminent of these lords, was Sir
Henry Sidney, who made the castle his favourite
residence; and, about the year 1564, put it in a
state of thorough repair. He died in the 28th year
of his presidency, at the bishop's palace, in Worces-
* This account, generally discredited, seems to derive a
degree of probability from the following circumstance : — On
opening a grave in the chancel of Ludlow church, a number
of years ago, a leaden box was discovered and sold by the
grave-digger to a plumber of the town. This affair coming to
the knowledge of the then rector, the box was repurchased,
and restored, unopened, to its former situation. Such means
of preserving the remains of the illustrious dead were, in that
age, not unusual.
tcr,
SHROPSHIRE.
163
ter, A. D. 1586 ; and was conveyed thence <o his
house at Penshurst, in Kent. Previously to this his
bowels were, pursuant to his own request, buried in
the dean's chapel ol' Worcester cathedral, and his
heart was taken to Ludlow, and deposited in the
same tomb with his beloved daughter Ambrosia,
within the little oratory he had made in the church.
A leaden urn, said to be the same which contained
liis heart, was some years ago in the possession of
Edward Colcman, Esq. of Leominster ; it was about
six inches deep, and h've inches in diameter at the
top. It bore the following inscription : — •
HER LYTH THE HARTE OF
SYR HENRYE SIDNY L. P.
ANNO DOMINI, 1586.
In the year 1616, the castle was honoured by a
visit from Prince Charles, son of James the First,
who there entered on his principality of Wales and
Earldom of Chester with great pomp and magni-
ficence. It was next distinguished by the repre-
sentation of the masque of Coinus, in 1634, during
the presidency of John, Earl of Bridgewater.*
In the reign of Charles the First, the castle was,
for some time, kept as a garrison for the King. In
the summer of 1645, a force of near 2000 horse and
foot, drawn together out of the garrisons of Ludlow,
Hereford, Worcester, and Monmouth, were by a less
number of the Parliament forces defeated near Lud-
low. The castle was delivered up on the 9th of June,
in the following year. — At the Rest rat ion, during
the presidency of the Earl of Carbery, the celebrated
Butler, secretary to that nobleman, wrote in one of
the towers of this castle, a part of his incomparable
Hudibras. — After the dissolution of the court of
marches, and the consequent abolition of the office
of Lord President, in the first year of William and
Mary, the castle being no longer guarded even by a
steward, gradually fell to decay, and was despoiled
of its curious and valuable ornaments. Many of the
pannels, bearing the arms of the lords presidents,
were converted into wainscoting for a public-house
in the town ; the owner of which enriched himself
with the sale of materials plundered from the castle.
Though now a total ruin, it is still interesting by the
mutilated features of its former grandeur, and by the
beauty of its site. Its walls are of great height and
thickness, fortified with round and square towers at
irregular distances. On one side, it is partly cir-
cumscribed by a deep ditch, cut out of the rock, and
on the other it is bounded by an almost inaccessible
steep, overlooking the vale of Corve. It consisted
of two parts : the castle, properly speaking, in which
were the palace and lodgings ; and the green, or out-
t That exquisite effusion of the genius of Milton had its
origin in a real incident. When the Earl entered on his official
residence, he was visited by a large assemblage of the neigh-
bouring nobility and gentry. His sons, the Lord Brackley and
Mr. Thomas Egerton, and his daughter the L:idy Alice, being
on their journey to join him, were benighted in Haywood I
orest, in Herefordshire ; and the Lady, for a short time, was
work, which Stnkely supposes to have been called
the barbican. The green takes in a large compass
of ground, in which were the court ot judicature
and records, the stables and other offices, and the
garden and bowling-green. Over several of the
j stable-doors, remain the arms of Queen Elizabeth,
' and of the Earl of Pembroke. Over the inner gate
: of the castle, arc the arms of the Sidney family, witb>
l the following inscription : —
HOMINIBUS 1NGRATIS LOQUIMIN'I
LAPIDES. ANNO REGNI REGINJE
Elizabeths: 23. THE 28 YEAR
COPLET or THE PRESIDENCY
OF SIR HENRI SIDNEY KNIGHT
OF THE MOST NOBLE O1IDER OF THE
GARTER ET c. 1581.
The only inhabited part of these extensive ruins is
Mortimer's Tower, which was lately occupied by a
mechanic. The ground adjoining the side next the
town has been converted into a fives court. Round
the castle, along the sides of the eminence, are pub-
lic walks, shaded with trees, which were laid out in
1772, through the munificence of the Countess of
Powis. From these walks a magnificent variety of
prospect presents itself.—" The opening toward the
north displays the windings of the Teme, the man-
sion of Oakley Park, half hid by trees, and termi-
nated with a bold outline, formed by the Clee hills,
the Caer Caradoc, and other hills near Stretton.
The more confined view toward the west exhibits
a bold eminence, partly clothed with wood, the
rocks of Whitecliffc, with the rapid stream at their
base, and, in short, a full union of those features in
rural scenery which constitute the picturesque. The
loveliness of nature is here heightened by contrast
with the venerable grey towers of the castle, and
the effect of the whole is calculated at once to
awaken the enthusiasm of fancy, and to diffuse the
calm of contemplation."
Ludlow Church, though it was never collegiate,
had a chantry of ten priests, maintained by the rich
gild of St. John, who gave to its choral service the
splendour of a cathedral. It stands in the highest
part of the town, and is a stately and very spacious
cruciform structure, with a lofty well-adorned tower
in the centre, in which is a fine peal of eight bells.
The principal entrance from the town is by a large
hexagonal porch, over which is a room, inhabited
by the sexton. On a modern gallery stands a large
and very fine toned organ, given by flenry Arthur,
Earl of Powis, about the middle of the last century.
The choir is spacious, and is lighted by five lofty
pointed windows on each side, and one of much
larger dimensions at the east end, which is entirely
lost. The adventure being related to their father, on their
arrival at the castle, Milton, at the request of his friend, Henry
Lawes, who taught music in the family, wrote the Masque.
Lawes set it to music, and it was acted on Michaelmas night ;
the two brothers, the young Lady, and Lawes himstlf bearing
each a part in the representation.
filled
164
SHROPSHIRE.
filled with painted glass, though not of rich colour-
ing, representing chiefly the legend of St. Lau-
rence, the patron saint of the church. In the side
windows are also large remains of stained glass,
principally figures of saints, of richer colouring
than that of the eastern window. The oak stalls
are still perfect, hut dauhed over with yellow paint.
In the chancel are many line monuments of the
lords presidents of the council of Wales, held in the
neighbouring castle. On each side of the choir is a
chantry chapel ; in that on the north are some very
splendid remnants of painted glass, pourtraying the
story of the ring presented by some pilgrims to
Edward the Confessor, who brought it from beyond
the sea, as a token from St. John the Evangelist :
•which pilgrims, the legend recites, were men of
Ludlow. The whole of this noble church is ceiled
with fine oak, and embellished with carving. The
extreme length, from west to east, is 228 feet, of
which the nave is 00, the choir 78, and the area
under the tower 3-2 ; breadth of nave and aisles, 73
feet; of choir, 22. Ludlow church was built in the
reigns of Henry the Seventh and Eighth, chiefly by
the munificence of the Gild of St. John, of which
the lords presidents and neighbouring nobility and.
gentry were probably members. — Adjoining the
churchyard is an almshnuse for aged widows and
'widowers, founded by Mr. John Hosier, merchant,
in 1486, and rebuilt by the corporation in 1758.
To the west of the church is a range of building,
•with a court and gateway, called the College.
Nearly in the centre of the town, stands the cross,
a handsome stone building ; the rooms over which
are used as a public school. The market-house,
in the middle of Castle Street, has its lower com-
partment open, serving as a corn-market. The
rooms above, supported by arched walls, are used
for corporation-meetings, balls, assemblies, &c.
The Guildhall, used for quarter sessions, &c. is a
. commodious modern building, situated in Mill-street.
In this street is also the Grammar School, founded
by Edward the Fourth. The prison, called Goal-
ford's Tower, was erected in 1761 on the site of a
tower so named.
The town of Ludlow was formerly surrounded by
a wall, parts of which may yet be seen in various
places ; but, of its seven gates, only one gateway
now remains at the bottom of Broad-street. — During
the late war, Lucien Buonaparte resided here as a
prisoner of war.
Oakclny Park, the seat of the venerable and bene-
volent Dowager Lady Clivc, is at a distance of ra-
ther more than two miles north-west of Ludlow. — •
* Mr. Fletcher, one of the society of Methodists, was vicar
of Madeley church. He was born at Nyon, in Switzerland,
and at setting out fn life shewed an ardent predilection for the
profession of arms; but, being hindered nv an accident from
following his inclination, and arriving in England, wlr.'re he was
converted, as he himself said, by accidentally meeting and
conversing with an old woman of the sect of Methodists, he
determined to devote himself to the ministry. After an enthti-
The grounds, naturally romantic and beautiful, arc
laid out with great taste and judgment ; the remains
of a fine forest of oaks, andthe meanderings of the
Teme contributing greatly to enrich the scenery.
The mansion, a great part of which is of modern
construction, stands finely on the banks of the river.
Amongst the excellent pictures which it contains, is
a very large one by Weeninx, the celebrated Dutch
landscape painter, purchased by the late Lord
Clive. The adjoining village of Broomfield con-
tains the remains of a priory or cell of Benedictines,
formerly belonging to the abbey of St. Peter, Glou-
cester.
MADELEY.]— The town of Madeley, 5| miles S. W.
by W. from Shiifnall, was formerly noted for its ex-
cellent market ; but the house in which it was prin-
cipally held, having been destroyed about a century
since, the market was transferred to a place about
two miles distant, where a new house was erected in
1763. The town contains a work for obtaining fos-
sil tar, or petroleum, from the condensed smoke of
pit-coal.*
MIDDLE.] — The manor and castle of Middle, eight
miles N. by W. from Shrewsbury, was held by the
Lords 1'Estrange, by the service of one Knight's
fee. In its present state, Middle is a straggling
hamlet, pleasantly situated on a hill, with a few
ruins, and one prominent tower of the castle. After
the lordship fell to the Derby family, a constable or
castle-keeper was appointed for the castle of Middle.
Humphrey Kyuaston, surnamed 'J'he Wild, was one
of these : his enormous debts having caused him to
be declared an outlaw, he fled from the castle, and
sheltered himself in a cave, on the west point of
NescliflTe rock, still called Kynaston's Cave. This
retreat, besides being secure, was both spacious and
comfortable. Of him and his horse, many " won-
drous exploits" are detailed at this day. In all his
predatory excursions, he regarded a sort of justice;,
giving freely to the poor what he took from the rich :
by this means he acquired the love of the former, as
he inspired the latter with fear, and he had a plenti-
ful supply of necessaries. Wild Humphrey was
never taken, and died, as tradition says, in his cave.
After his time, the castle was deserted, and suffered
to go to ruin.
MORFE.] — (See Bridgenorth.)
NEWPORT.] — The small market-town of Newport,
19 ;r,iles E.N. E. from Shrewsbury, and 139 N. W.
by N. from London, anciently belonged to the Aud-
leys, to whom it gave the title of Baron. The
parish church, which stands in the middle of the
main street, is an ancient structure, recently re-
siasfic perseverance of nearly forty years in the labours of his
calling, joined to a ri.;id abstinence that injured his health, he
died, says his biographer, '•' iii the most extatic raptures," on
Sunday night, August the 1-ith 1 735 and was buried in Madeley
church-yard, amidst the tears and lamentations of thousands,
A stone, bearing a simple epitaph, records the day of his birth,
that of his death, and a few of his numerous virtues.
paired
paired with red brick, and exhibits an incongruous
and fantastic appearance. A free-school was founded
here by W. Adams, Esq. where scholars are quali-
fied for the university ; its lands were exempted from
laxesof all kinds by the Protector, Cromwell. This
town contends for the honour of having given birth
to the humorous but licentious poet Tom Brown,
who, after a life of poverty and dissipation, was
interred in Westminster Abbey, and left behind him
monuments of his wit and humour, in writings sea-
soned with learning1, but degraded by indelicacy.
OAKLEY PARK.] — See Ludlow.
OSWESTRY.]— This town, (18 miles N. W. from
Shrewsbury, and 179| N. W. from London) is, by
the Welch, called Croes Oswallt, (Oswald's Cross)
on account of the body of Oswald, King of North-
umberland, slain here in 642, having1 been nailed
to a cross. The seal of the town, cu.t in brass, is
King Oswald sitting in his robes on a chair, holding
a sword in his right hand, and an oak branch in his
left, with the words " De Oswaldestre sigillum im-
mune." This king, having been driven out of his
father's kingdom by Cadwallan, retired to Scotland,
where he was converted to Christianity ; and, on his
return, at the death of Cadwallan, he brought with
him Aidhan, Fynnan, and Dimma, who, by the aid
of Oswald, as interpreter, taught and converted
many of his subjects. In a field, near Oswestry,
called Cae Naef, are the ruins of a chapel founded
by King Oswald over a well, whence flows a fine
stream of water ; and a few years since were to be
seen some ruins of the cloisters of a monastery, built
in honour of St. Oswald. — Hen Dinas, mentioned
by Camden, a quarter of a mile N. E. from Oswes-
try, was formerly called by the British, Lys Ogran,
or Caer Ogran ; that is, Ogran's Palace, or Ogran's
strong place. It is now called Old Fort(and Old Port)
and is a natural bank, having a sudden ascent on all
sides, with a deep triple entrenchment on the top
and sides. The common people having a groundless
notion that the ancient town stood here, call it Old
Oswestry ; but this arises probably from its name,
Hen Dinas, old camp or city. According to tradi-
tion, this Ogran was father to Gwenhwyfar, the wife
of King Arthur, who lies buried with him at Glas-
tonbury Abbey. Madoc ap Meredith built a castle
at Oswestry, in 1149. The town was walled round,
and had the four gates built by one of the Fitz-
Allans. It is said that it was walled in the time of
Edward the First, and that the gate called the New
Gate was built in Edward the Second's time, 970 ;
* John Dovaston, Esq. (father of this gentleman) who died
March 31, 1808, at the age of sixty-eight, was boru in 1740, of
humble, though respectable parents, who lived on their small
estate at West Felton. He was taught to read by an old woman
in the village; every other acquirement, which he afterwards
possessed in so eminent a degree, was entirely his own. He !
was the eldest of seven children, all of whom he brought up to
respectable professions. From his father he received his little
estate, almost swallowed up by mortgages and iacumbrances,
VOL. IV. NO. 153.
I but this gate was erected in the time of the Saxons,
• for, in the front, over the archway, was carved iii
stone a horse, the ensign of the Saxons. The gates
were all taken down about the year 1769. — llfiiry
the Second, on his marching against the Welch over
Berwin mountains, lay at Oswestry ; and a great
number of his men being sent out from thence to try
the passage through the river Cyriog, in going
through a wood of birch, at the farther end of
Selattin Hill, opposite to Crogen Castle (now Chirk
Castle) the Welch fell upon them in the wood, and
slew most of them. Their graves are still to be seen ;
and the place is thence called Adwyr yr Beden, the
Passage of the Birches, or Adwy yr Bedhan, the
Passage of the Graves. In 1212, King John came
to Oswestry, which was then in possession of the
Fitz-Alans, and burnt the town and castle to the
ground. It was also burnt in 1233, by Llewellin.
This town has extended on all sides considerably
beyond the boundary of the ancient wall, and is
yearly continuing to extend, particularly on the
English side. Of the castle only a few fragments
remain, but those of prodigious strength, on a very
high artificial mount, on the west side of the town.
This mount commands a rich and extensive pros-
pect.— In the year 1810, Oswestry was much im-
proved by an act for widening, paving, and lighting
the streets. The circumjacent country is delight-
fully varied with hills, vales, wood, and water, and
abounds in rich scenery. — Above Oswestry, on the
Welch side, is Hayes, an ancient stone house, in
the form of a cross, and formerly surrounded with
thick and large wood. The front windows contained
stained glass, very ancient and curious. This was
the seat of the late Richard Hill Warning, Esq.
barrister at law, and recorder of Oswestry ; a man
highly eminentforhis classical and scientific learning.
He maintained an uninterrupted correspondence,
for nearly fifty years, with the late John Dovaston,
Esq. of West Felton, where a large collection of
his letters is still preserved, on natural history, phi-
losophy, and antiquities. Botany was one of his
favourite pursuits.
Aston Park, a noble domain, the natural beauties
of which have received great improvement from the
taste and judgment of its respected owner, William
Lloyd, Esq. lies to the south of Oswestry. Near
the neighbouring village of West Felton, is the
elegant villa of John F. M. Dovaston, Esq.* called
the Nursery.
Whittington Castle, 3£ miles E.N.E. from Oswes-
try,
which lie redeemed at a very early period of life by two voyages
to the West Indies, and afterwards considerably increased by
prudence and industry. Though he left scarcely any science un-
touched, his turn of mind was principally directed to antiquities,
natural philosophy, music, mechanics, and planting. Of the
first he has left a large collection of manuscript historical
observations relating to Shropshire and the Welch borders ; on
Druidical reliques, and Stonehenge ; tracing many traditional
vulgar errors from the remote ages of superstitiou. in mecha-
2 T nic*
1GG
SHROPSHIRE.
try, is an extremely picturesque ruin, consisting of
the remains of eight massy towers with intermediate !
walis. The towers are not regularly placed, except
four at the angles of the keep, at the west corner of
which are two, very close together, witli steps be- j
i ween, as for an entrance. Here there must have j
been a drawbridge over the moat, as there also was |
at the east gateway, between two towers which are j
still entire, and are inhabited as a farm-house, in
the south of which is the court-room of the manor,
of which William Lloyd, of Aston, Esq. is the lord.
On the whole of the east side is a lake, which washes
the walls of the castle, now finely fringed with ivy
and shaded with large old trees. In the interior,
on and around a high mount, are some extremely
tall wych elms, and ash trees. A running brook
still occupies part of the moat. The keep is now
used for a garden, on digging in which, all over at
an even depth was found a pavement ; at its north
corner was a deep well. In the year 1796, in digging
a grave in the place where the porch of Whittington
church once stood, were discovered the remains of
a strong oak coffin, three inches thick, containing
probably bones of one of the Fitz-Gnarines. In
1797, on removing some rubbish in the ruins, three
nics he left a set of philosophical and musical instruments made
by liis own hands, among which are a large reflecting telescope,
a solar and lucernal microscope, and a fine organ, on a new
principle ; an electrical machine, on the plan of Dr. Franklin ;
and just before his death he projected an orrery to shew the
satellites on a new method. In planting, he has clothed the
country round him with forest and fruit trees, all raised and
grafted with his own hands ; and his little villa is laid out with
much taste and rural elegance. He was well versed in the
Hebrew, Anglo-Saxon, British, and Latin tongues, and had
some knowledge of the Greek. To the very last day of his life
he constantly rose at five every morning. Though he lived
to a fair age, it was the opinion of the neighbouring medical
men, that his excessive and laborious industry of body and
mind brought on his decay prematurely. He ordered, that
though none of his works should be published, his library and
collection should always be open to the inspection of the curi-
ous, as it was during his life, and that any information from his
manuscripts should be at their service. In his youth he was a
close friend of the poet Shenstone, to whose memory he was
much attached.
* After the Conquest it was held by Roger de Montgomery,
•and being forfeited by his son Robert, it was bestowed on
William, a sister's son of Pain Peverell, whose daughter Mellet
was the fair objtct of contention to the warlike youths of the
age. Peverell declared his resolution of giving her in marriage,
•with Whittington Castle for a dowry, to him who should display
the greatest prowess at a tilting match. Peverell's castle in the
Peak of Derbyshire was the /place appoin'ed for the combat.
Among the knights who repaired thither was Guarine de Metz,
of the house of Lorraine, Lord of Alberbury and sheriff of
Shropshire. He entered the list with his "silver shelde, and
a proude pecock upon his heaulme creste," overthrew his
rivals, carried off his fair prize, and received the castle of Whit-
tington for her dower. His posterity continued lords of this
place for near four hundred years, every heir, for nine descents,
preserving the Christian name of Fulke, to which was added
the memorable appellation of Fitz Guarine. — Fulke, son of
Guarine, displayed the high spirit of his race in a quarrel with
.King John, when prince, whom he greatly offended by breaking
his head with a chess-board. John, when" he came to the crown,
curious bottles were found, of a depressed form-,
bearing an appearance of having been highly gilt.
They are preserved in the collection of Mr. Dovas-
ton. In clearing the bottom of one of the old towers,
a few years ago, were found some huge iron fetters, a
gyve of ponderous size, and a great quantity of the
heads and antlers of deer. — According to the bards,
this place was once the property of Tudor Trevor/"
a British nobleman, who lived in the year 924.*
SHIPFNALL.] — Shiffnall is a market town, 19|
miles E. by S.from Shrewsbury, and 143 N.W. from
London. Its church is a large and interesting cru-
ciform building, containing a fine altar, and a re-
markable inscription to the memory of William
Wakeley, who died November '28, 1714, aged 124-,
having lived in the reigns of eight kings and queens.
Shiffnall is distinguished as the birth-place of Tho-
mas Beddoes, M.D. the celebrated author of " Hy-
I geia," and many other works. He was eminent for
literary talent, as well as skill in his profession ; and
i a determined enemy to quackery, which he delighted
to detect and expose. f
SHREWSBURY.] — Shrewsbury, the chief town of
the county, is 1(31 miles N. W. from London. It is
i generally supposed to have been founded in the fifth.
century,
gave away Whittinglon Castle from Fulke's son, who retired to
France, and there rendered himself so renowned, that a French
romance was composed on the actions of himself and his pro-
genitors, and translated into English under the title of " Gestes
of Guarine and his sonnes" Coming over, during his exile, to
Windsor, where the king was hunting, he in disguise took him
to a tent where his friends were before posted, and forced him
to consent to his pardon. No sooner, however, was John out of
his power than he retracted, and obliged Fulke once more to
leave the kingdom. He was at length restored to his posses-
sions, but again fell into a quarrel with John, and. was one of the
glorious band who compelled that monarch to sign the Great
Charter. In the succeeding reign he obtained a confirmation,
of his estates and secured them to his posterity. In 1419, this
illustrious race became extinct, and the manor, after various
transfers in succeeding ages, devolved to William Albany, citizen
of London, whose great grand-daughter and sole heiress, mar-
ried Thomas Lloyd, of Aston, Esq. the lather of the present
possessor.
f He was born in 1754 or 1755. His father was a tanner,
who determined 4iis son should receive an excellent education ;
accordingly, after passing a few years at a provincial school, he
was conducted to Oxford by an uncle, who, unacquainted with
the mode of admission to the seat of learning, knocked at the
gate of St. John's, the first college which presented itself. Here '
the young student's name was actually registered on the books,
and the usual fees paid, when the master, finding that the two
I strangers had letters of recommendation to Dr. Surgrove,
politely returned the money, and directed them to Pembroke
College, where young Beddoes was matriculated in due form.
About the year 1781, he repaired to Edinburgh, and there
attended the most famous professors, was noticed as a youth of
great promise, and lived in intimacy with the celebrated Dr.
Brown. Chemistry had always been his favourite study, and,
in 1786, he was reader of chemistry at Oxford, where there was
no professorship of that kind then established. In 1787, he
visited France ; at Paris he became acquainted with Lavoisier,
with whom he carried on a scientific correspondence after his
return. A considerable period had elapsed before he could
determine on so important an object as the field of his career.
At length, however, be pitched on Bristol. For some time he
united
SHROPSHIRE.
167
rentury, after the destruction of the Roman Urico-
nium, os a place likely to afford the harassed and
distracted Britons an asylum from the desolating
incursions of their Saxon invaders. The eminence,
on which it is huilt, was then called Pen-gwern, or
" the Head of Alder Groves ;" and when it was
taken by the Saxons it received the synonymous
name of Sciobbes-byrig, " the Hill of Shrubs."
After the Conquest the Normans gave this town the
arbitrary names of Shrobbesbury, and Sloppesburie ;
from which was derived the word Shrewsbury. — This
town is situated nearly in the centre of the county,
on two gently rising eminences, formfid by the
Severn into a fine peninsula, which, when beheld
from theadjacentcountry, has a bold and commanding
aspect. The elevation of its site, the dryness of its
soil, the purity and excellence of its water, all con-
tribute to give that salubrity to the air, for which it
has been always famous. — When the Britons had
established themselves on the Pengwern hill, they
built a city, which soon became the capital of the
Welch Princes, being advantageously situated in
that part of the division of Wales, called Powisland.
The royal palace of Brochwel Yscithrog, \vho lived
about the year 607, occupied the spot of ground,
subsequently the site of the old church of St. Chad.
— The first important mention however, that we
have of Shrewsbury, is in the reign of Ethelred II.
when it was cruelly harassed by the Danes-, who had
gained a settlement in this part of the kingdom, and
exercised the most horrid barbarities on the English.
England was at this time torn into pieces by intestine
divisions, and consequently unable to make head
against the common enemy. Ethelred, however,
projected a scheme for destroying all the Danes in
the kingdom in one night ; to effect which he sent a
commission to every town and city, enjoining the
people to fall on them on the 13th of November,
1002, which was executed to an almost incredible
extent. — In consequence of this the following year
the Danes invaded England, under Sween their
king, murdered all they met with, and destroyed or
carried with them their property. Ethelred was at
this time at Shrewsbury, and after consulting his
nobles what measures to take in opposition to these
invaders, it was agreed to purchase a peace with
them. They were offered 30,000/. weight of silver,
which they accepted, and left the kingdom ; but they
returned soon after, and were not quiet till they had
united politics with medicine. Among other pamphlets, he
published " An Essay on the Public merits of Mr. Pitt, with
an introductory motto:
" Pi-nn'd be each pig within his proper sty ;
Nor into slate concerns let Doctors pry."
In 1802, appeared, " Hygeia, or Essays Moral and Medical,
on the causes aftVcting the Personal State of the .middling and
affluent classes." In 1803, he published "A Letter to the
Right Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, Hurt. F.R.S. On the Causes
and the Removal of the Prevailing Discontents, Imperfections,
and Abuses in Medicine," with the motto " Take Physic,
placed Canute, their king, on the English throne.—
At the Norman Conquest, this town was of great
repute, as appears from its paying Gelt, i. e. money
for 200 hides of land. — During the civil wars
between Stephen and the Empress Matilda, the
governor of Shrewsbury declared for the empress,
and it held out against Stephen sometime, but it
was at last taken by assault, and all the governor's
estates forfeited. That baron, whose name was
Fitz-AHan, escaped to the empress, and when her
cause declined in England, he went over to France,
and remained there till the accession of Henry II.
when he came over to England, and had all his
estates, with the government of Shrewsbury, re-
stored to him. — When the wars broke out between
Henry the Third and the great barons, the latter,
being declared traitors, fled into Wales, where they
were joined by a great body of forces, with which
they inarched to Shrewsbury, and after having laid
all the marches desolate with fire and sword, they
burnt part of this town. A reconciliation, however,
was soon after effected. — In the reign of Richard
the Second a parliament was held here. The most
remarkable occurrence, however, that happened here
was the following : — Some disputes having arisen
between king Henry the Fourth and Percy Earl of
Northumberland, concerning the ransom of some
prisoners who had been taken at the battle of
Holmedon, and the earl having let fall some expres-
sions which offended the king, he was forbidden the
court, -under pain of being declared a traitor. Percy
could not bear such contempt without thoughts of
revenge, and as it was chiefly owing to his assist-
ance that Henry came to the crown, he thought that
it was still in his power to take it from him. His
first scheme was to publish to the people, that king
Richard was still alive ; but that having been dis-
proved, he set up Mortimer, Earl of March, who
was descended from the third son of Edvvard the
Third and consequently had a better title than Henry,
who was the son of John of Gaunt, the fourth son of
Edward. Mortimer, however, was in circumstances
too depressed to assert his title, and was therefore
obliged to submit to his more powerful cousin of
Lancaster, till the Earl of Northumberland sent to
him, and offered to assist him not only with all the
men he could raise in the north, but also to call in
the Earl of Douglas from Scotland. A solemn
league was consequently entered into between him
Physic." His other literary labours were, "The History of
Henry Jenkins;" "Instructions for Persons of all Capacities,
respecting their own health and that of their children ;" " Ma-
nual of Health ;" and " Researches concerning Fever." The
Dropsy, assisted by the rigour of winter, occasioned his death
on the 24th of December, 1808. He possessed a warmth in
the pursuit of medical science, seldom equalled. His whole
life was demoted to the acquirement and communication of
instruction; and, with a fine genius for poetry, he possessed the
happy faculty of viewing every subject on its most brilliant
side. A few years before his death, he married Miss Edge-
worth, a lady of a respectable literary family in Ireland, by
whom he left four children.
• aad
168
SHROPSHIRE.
and tbc young Percy, who was to bring a great
army to the marches, whom the Welch were to join.
The Earl of Worcester, brother to Northumber-
land, was also brought into the scheme, and with
many other lords, he joined the rebel army, whilst
Percy, to oblige the Scots, set all their prisoners at
liberty. — Henry Percy, son of the Earl of Northum-
berland, and commonly called Hot-Spur, from the
warmth of his temper, inarched in company with
the Earl of Douglas, and joined his uncle, the Earl
of Worcester, and the Welch, near Shrewsbury,
after which they published a manifesto, enumerating
all the grievances which the people laboured under
from the king's tyranny, declaring that they came
to force him, to put up with the Duchy of Lancaster,
and restore the crown to Mortimer, the true lawful
heir.— The king published an answer to their mani-
festo, and offered them all a free pardon, if they
would lay down their arms; but the Earl of Wor-
cester looked on such promises as snares, and
therefore persuaded his nephew, and the other lords,
to set the king at defiance. —The king was accom-
panied by his son Henry, Prince of Wales, and when
the morning arrived, the rebels saw the royal ban-
ners displayed. The king, however, rather than
venture his crown on the fate of a battle, employed
the abbot of Shrewsbury to offer peace to the rebels,
and the whole day was spent in messages, between
them, but without coming to any agreement. The next
morning, when the two armies prepared to engage,
and Hot-Spur was told of the king's approach, he
drew up his men in order of battle, telling them that
they must either conquer or die an ignominious
death ; to which they answered with loud shouts of
applause. — .The king disposed of his army to great
advantage, and the battle began with a dreadful dis-
charge of arrows from both the front lines. The
Scots, too impatient to fight at a distance, rushed
with great fury upon the front line of the royal
army, and put them into some confusion, so that
they would have been totally ruined, had not the
impetuosity of Hot-Spur defeated his own inten-
tion. Me fought with such undaunted courage,
seconded by the brave Douglas, that a way was
opened into the centre of the royal army, but his
men were unable to follow. Heaps of dead bodies
lay scattered on every side, and victory was begin-
ning to declare for the rebels, when the king brought
up his reserve, and turned the scale. — At last the
victory became general, the rebels fled in great
cpnfusion, and Douglas was taken prisoner ; but
Hot-Spur, resolving to sell his life as dearly as pos-
sible, rushed into the hottest part of the battle, and
was killed. Many thousands were killed on both
sides, and the Earl of Worcester being taken pri-
soner, was, with some other lords, instantly beheaded.
The body of young Percy was found among the
slain, and being cut into quarters was placed on the
gates of Shrewsbury and other towns. The Earl of
Douglas was set at liberty, and it appeared that dur-
ing the battle, he had killed with his own hands four
persons, who were dressed like the king. — Edward
IV. who had many paternal estates in Shropshire,
often kept his court here ; and when Henry Earl of
Richmond arrived in England, and was marching
against Richard the Third, he was joined at Shrews-
bury by Sir Gilbert Talbot, high sheriff of the
county, who had raised 4,000 men to assist him. — •
In April, 1551, a disorder broke out in this town,
called the sweating sickness, which afterwards spread
all over the kingdom ; but whether it were an epide-
mical distemper, imported from some part of the con-
tinent, or was peculiar to this county, is not certainly
known. — Charles the First, alter setting up his
standard at Nottingham, aqd finding no encourage-
ment there, removed to Shrewsbury, being invited
by the gentry of the town antT country round. He
was received with such general affection and hearty
zeal, that his majesty recovered himself from the
discouragement of his first step at Nottingham, and
raised and completed a strong army in less time than
could be imagined ; insomuch that, to the surprise of
the parliament, he was in the field before them, and
advanced upon them so fast, that he met them two
thirds on his way to London, and gave them battle
at Edge-hill, near Banbury. The fate of the war
turning afterwards against the king, the weight of
it fell heavily upon this town, and almost ruined it ;
but it has since recovered, and is now one of the
most flourishing towns in the kingdom.
The beautiful situation of Shrewsbury has been
already mentioned. Seated on a circular peninsula
of considerable elevation, formed by the winding of
the Severn, it presents at every approach a pleas-
ing variety of view ; and the noble sweep of the
river, which seems to embrace it, heightens at every
turn the charm of the scene. On the western side
of the town is a public promenade, called the Quarry,
which occupies a tract of ground of about twenty
acres, gradually sloping to the verge of the Severn.
The opposite bank of that river rises abruptly to a
considerable eminence, on whicli stands the House
of Industry. Some adjacent plantations greatly
adorn the scene. The streets of Shrewsbury are
intricately disposed, many of them steep and nar-
row, and all indifferently paved. They exhibit a
contrast of ancient and modern building, and are
as uncouth in names as in appearance.
This town is a corporation by prescription, and has
received grants of charters and immunities from vari-
ous successive kings of England. Charles the First
united the offices of bailiff into that of mayor, and
established the corporation in the form in which it
has since continued. It consists of a mayor, recor-
der, steward, town-clerk, twenty-four aldermen,
forty-eight common-councilmen, &c. Four general
quarter sessions are held in the course of the year,
and the mayor and some of the aldermen, attend
every Tuesday, to administer public justice. — There
are sixteen other chartered companies, the most
considerable of which are the drapers and mercers,
both incorporated by Edward the Fourth. In
ancient
SHROPSHIRE.
169
ancient times, all the companies united once a year
in celebrating the clay of Corpus Christi, with great
pomp and splendour. At the Reformation this cere-
mony was commuted for another, held on the second
Monday after Trinity Sunday. The companies form
themselves into processions, headed severally by men
on horseback in gaudy apparel, called kings, pro-
bably as representatives of the monarchs who granted
their charters. They move in marshalled array to
Kingsland, where they are met by the mayor and
corporation, and the day is spent in festivity.
Shrewsbury Castle is situated on a steep bank of
brown earth, on the neck of the peninsula formed by
the Severn. The importance of the spot as a strong
hold, induced the Britons, or the Saxons, to throw
up a circular mount, with walls and ditches ; and
on the traces of their rude fortification, Roger de
Montgomery, the Norman, laid the foundation of the
present structure. This castle was the seat of his
baronial power, and continued in the possession of
his descendants until the reign of Henry the First,
when, by the forfeiture of Robert de Belesme, it
became a royal fortress, and was entrusted to the
keeping of a constable, who maintained the county
prison within its walls. The vast territories append-
ed to it were conferred on various knights, on con-
dition of their performing castle-ward for a certain
Slumber of days in time of war. After the tin.il
submission of the Welch, it gradually fell to decay.
During the civil wars of Charles, it was repaired
and garrisoned for the king, and when taken by the
parliament forces in 1(545, was exempted from the
general demolition of royal fortresses. In the reign
of James the Second, it was stripped of its cannon,
muskets, and ammunition ; and, probably, at the
same time out-works were razed, and its ancient
chapel destroyed. Of later years it came into the
possession of Sir William Pnlteney, who put it into
a proper state of repair. It is now the property of
Lord Darlington. — The remaining buildings consist
of the keep, the walls of the inner court, and the
great arch of the interior gate. The keep is a square
building of 100 feet, connecting with two round
towers of equal diameters, embattled and pierced.
The entrance opens upon a modern stone staircase,
a corner of the vestibule being occupied by a statue
of Earl Roger. The staircase leads to the principal
apartments, all of which, except a circular eating-
room, are on the first and second floors. The
drawing-room, which in the time of Charles the
"First, was called the guard-chamber, is very spa-
cious and handsome. An obscure stone staircase
within the wall, lends to an apartment in the western
tower, in which was a recess, having a strong groined
ceiling and thorp-pointed windows. The walls of
this building are ten feet in thickness, and its beams
of vast dimensions. The area of the court is now
a gardeti, on a circular grass-plot of which the knights
of the shire, according to ancient custom, are girt
with their swords by the sheriffs, on assuming their
office. The battlements of the western walls are
VOL. iv. — NO. J53.
pierced with cruciform loop-holes. The arch of the
gateway, a part of the original castle, is eighteen feet
high. On the other side of the court is a postern,
built probably in the time of Charles the First, when
the castle was re-fortified, and near it are the massive
foundations of an ancient tower. On the south side
of the court, is a lofty mount, which rises abruptly
from the verge of the Severn. Round the summit
is a ruined wall ; on one corner of it was a small
watch-tower, which, having been re-built, forms a
delightful prospect-room.
This town, though the most important station on
the Welch marches, never sustained more than two
sieges. It was protected by its castle, and by a wall
fenced with towers which completely surrounded it.
Of the old ramparts, those on the northern and
eastern sides have long disappeared : their founda-
tions, which are easily to be traced, form the ground
work of modern houses. On the south a consider-
able portion remains, and is kept in repair as a
public walk. The towers have all been taken down,
except one, which stands on this wiill between the
bottom of Swan Hill and the end of the street called
Belmont. The town was considerably more than a
mile in compass. It had formerly three principal
gates ; one, near the castle, called the North Gate,
and one on each of the bridges. They are now all
down. — The old Welch Bridge, a stately specimen,
of the fortified bridge of ancient and warlike times,
and the chief architectural ornament of the town,
consisted of seven arches, and had a gate at each
end, in the finest castellated style. That on the
Welch side of the Severn was taken down about
the year 1770. The gate nearest the town stood on
the bridge, and was uncommonly beautiful ; but, in
1791, being considered as endangering the safety of
the bridge, it was demolished by order of the corpo-
ration. The statue of llichard Duke of York, the
patron of Shrewsbury, and the shields belonging to
the gate, were preserved, and placed in conspicuous
situations at the end of the market-house. The tolls
arising from the transit of marketable goods through
the gate, were abolished by the payment of 6000/.
to the corporation, which sum was raised by public
subscription. Soon afterwards a fund of 8000/. was
procured in a similar way, the corporation advancing
4000/. for the rebuilding of the Welch bridge, which
was completed in 1795. It is ^convenient and sub-
stantial structure, consisting of five elegant arches,
the whole length being 2(50 feet, in breadth 30,
and the height 30. — The original English, or East
Bridge, probably the joint work of the abbots and
burgesses, was constructed on seventeen arches in
different styles and various dimensions. This bridge
was not more than twelve feet wide, and was encum-
bered with houses, which rendered the passage highly
inconvenient. A subscription was therefore entered
into, in 1765, for widening it, according to a plan
given by Mr. Mylnc, the architect of Black Friars
Bridge. Some progress was made in the work ;
but contributions flowed in so freely that it was
2 u determined
170
SHROPSHIRE.
determined to remove the old bridge entirely, and
erect a new one, according to a plan furnished by
Mr. Gwyn, a native of Shrewsbury. The first stone
was laid on the 25th of June, 17tt<), by Sir John
Astley, Bart, who gave 1000/. towards the work.
The whole cost amounted to upwards of 16,OUO/.
The extent of the bridge is 400 feet. It is built of
the fine stone of the Grinshill quarry, on seven semi-
circular arches, crowned with a fine balustrade. The
central arch is 60 feet in width, and 40 in height
from the low- water mark ; the two arches at^ the
extremities are 35 feet wide and 20 high. The
breadth between the ballustrades is 25 feet.
The Abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul stood on
the eastern banks of the Severn. In the time of the
Saxons, a church stood on or near this spot, and a
community of monks and nuns might probably be
united to it. The Danes are supposed to have plun-
dered and depopulated this institution. At the time
of the Norman invasion, the church, then a rude
edifice of wood, was governed by Odelirius, a priest,
who, as archpresbyter or dean, presided over a col-
lege of married secular clergy. Its district was
called the parish of the city. At this period it was
collegiate. In its seminary, a priest, named Seward,
is mentioned as an eminent teacher ; and to him the
historian Ordericus Vitalis, son of Odelirius, owed
his education. — Roger cle Montgomery obtained the
land on which the monastery of Shrewsbury stood
from Segward, a Saxon nobleman, and in 1083 laid
the foundation of a magnificent abbey, which was
re-dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. Afterwards,
with the consent of his Countess Aflelaisa, he retired
to the holy solitude of his monastery, and received
the tonsure and habit of a monk ; on which occasion
he presented the fraternity with the tunic of Hugh,
the sainted Abbot of Cluni. — When Hugh the Red,
the second son of Roger, succeeded to the earldom
of Shrewsbury, he paid a solemn visit to the abbey
to do homage at the tomb of his father ; and, amongst
other gifts, conferred on the monks the tythe of all
the venison of his forest in Shropshire, that of Wen-
lock excepted. By numerous acquisitions, the reve-
nues of the house were greatly enriched, and the
abbot obtained the honour of ranking among those
spiritual barons who sat and voted in parliament,
had the authority of bishops within their house, wore
the mitre, sandals, and gloves ; carried silver cro-
siers in their hands, and gave the episcopal bene-
diction, conferred the lesser orders, and in some
instances were exempt from all authority of the
diocesan. In the days of King Stephen, the monks
of Shrewsbury, by a succession of ' holy' artifices,
succeeded in obtaining "the body of the chaste
virgin Wenefrede," which lay interred in the church
of Gwytherin, in Denbighshire, where s'he died. It
* One of the most remarkable persons whom this house pro-
duced, was Robert of Shrewsbury, a monk, who wa< promoted
to the see of Bangor, in the ieij;n of Henry II. His influence
in Wales excited the jealousy of King John, who imprisoned
was enshrined with great pomp and solemnity, near
the high altar of St. Peter and St. Paul. The
speculation of the monks was completely successful ;
multitudes of pilgrims flocked with gifts- to the
shrine, and even nobles contended who should offer
the richest donations.* — At the Dissolution, in 1513,
it appears that Henry VIII. had chosen Shrewsbury
for the foundation of one of his new bishoprics.
The abbey church was to have been converted into
a cathedral ; part of the revenues were destined for
the support of the bishop, and Dr. Bouchier, the
last abbot of Leicester, was absolutely nominated
to that dignity ; but the treasures of Henry were
squandered as rapidly as they were amassed, and
his exigencies soon compelled him to abandon this
as well as other measures of public benefit which he
had projected. — There are few remains of the abbey.
Its cloister, refectory, chapter -house, &c. are entirely
destroyed. The most interesting portion of the ruins
is a little octagonal structure, six feet in diameter,
which is generally called the Stone Pulpit. The
most probable of the many conjectures respecting the
use of this structure, is, that it was the pulpit of the
refectory, from which, by the rule of St. Benedict,
one of the junior brethren was enjoyned to read or
recite aloud a subject of divinity to the monks during
dinner, a custom which still prevails in some of our
college-halls at the universities. — The church pre-
sents few features of its ancient grandeur. Three-
fourths of it were demolished at the Dissolution ;
and of the choir, chapels, transept, and centre stee-
ple, scarcely a wreck remains. The nave, the western
tower, and the northern porch, are still standing, but
in a deplorable state of mutilation. The nave, or
great western aisle, was in very early times appro-
priated to the use of the neighbouring inhabitants.
It was called the parish church of the Holy Cross,
within the monastery of St. Peter of Salop. For
this reason it was spared in the general destruction
of the fabric, and is now one of the parochial churches
of the town, retaining its denomination of the Holy
Cross. Its great1 western tower is a plain but well
'proportioned structure. The interior of the church
has an air of majestic simplicity.
The church of St. Giles, at the eastern extremity
of the Abbey Foregate suburb, is a small plain build-
ing, bearing marks of considerable antiquity. It is
now chiefly used for sepulture, and public worship is
only performed twice a year within its walls.
The old collegiate church of St. Chad, of which
only a small part, called the chapel, now remains,
was founded by one of the kings of Mercia, on the
site of the palace of the British princes. Its patron
saint was a native of Northumberland, who convert-
ed the idolatrous East Saxons to Christianity, and
became their bishop, about the middle of the seventh
him in his own cathedral, and for his ransom obliged him to
pay three hundred hawks. This eminent prelate, it is said, bv
his will, ordered his body to be buried, not in his cathedral
chin th, but iu the middle of the market place of Shrewsbury.
century.
SHROPSHIRE,
oentwry. The college was dissolved in the second
of Edward the Sixth ; its buildings were leased out,
and its property, consisting chiefly of tythes, re-
mained in the crown until the reign of Elizabeth,
except a portion which was granted to found the
free-school.— Respecting the various changes which
this ancient edifice must have undergone, during a
period of near 1000 years, few notices liave been
preserved. In the year 1393, a considerable part
of it was consumed by a fire, occasioned by the
carelessness of a plumber, who, alarmed at the con-
flagration, endeavoured to escape over the ford of
the Severn, and was drowned. The subsequent
building, a Norman Gothic structure, was under
repair in July 1788, when its decayed tower sud-
denly fell down, while the workmen were gone to
dinner, and in a great measure destroyed the whole
of this venerable fabric. This church was rebuilt in
1796.* — The site of the edifice being ineligible, the
new church was erected on a commanding eminence,
bordering on the quarry. It is constructed of the
beautiful stone of Grinshill, on a novel plan. " The
body of the church externally is a circle, one hun-
dred feet in diameter. This is divided into two
stories ; the basement is rustic, and contains a range
of square windows. In the higher division are the
large arched windows which form the principal
lights, and between them are double Ionic pilasters,
resting upon the basement, and supporting a bold
and handsome cornice crowned with an open ballus-
trade. Attached to this main edifice on the eastern
side, is a small circular building with similar enrich-
ments, and beyond is the steeple. The portal is
placed in the front of the lower story of the tower,
on each side of which is a square plain wing. Before
the front is a portico, elevated on a flight of steps,
and supported on four Doric columns. The steeple
consists of a square basement of rustic work, on
•which rests an octagonal beli'ry, highly enriched
with lonio pilasters, pannels, &c. containing twelve
* Amongst the monuments removed tu olner places was an
alabaster stone belonging to the Burtons of Longnor. A de-
scenitant of this ancient family, Edward Burton, Esq. having
been a zealous assertor of the Gospel, in the time of Queen
Mary, the Roman Catholic cuiate ot St. Chad's refused him
Christian burial in the tomb ot his ancestors. The author of
the " Acts and Monuments of the Church of England" name;
him among those that escaped persecution in Queen Mary's
reign. " He hail, by many precautions, evaded the hands of
such as lay in wait for him ; when one day sitting alone in his
upper parlour at Longnor, in meditation of God's deliverance
of his people, he heard a general ring of all the bells of Shrews-
bury, wheremito, in St. Ceadda's parish, his house belonged ;
when straight his divining soul told him it was for Queen .Mary's
death ; yet longing to know the truth more certainly, and loath
to trust his servants therein, he -.cut his eldest son, a boy about
sixteen years of age, willing him lo throw up his hat if it were
so, so impatient was his expectation, who finding it, and doing
accordingly as he was directed, the good man retired presently
from the window, anil recovering his chair, overcome willi
excels of joy, suddenly expired. His friends made a shift to
bury him in his garden,. by the fish-ponds, and set a monument
over him, which being defaced by time and rain, it happened
in the year I6l4.that Edward Burton, Esij. his grandson, inviting
bells : and above, is » small dome, supported by
eight Corinthian pillars, and crowned with a gilt
cross. — The communion-table, contrary to custom,
in situated in the west. A gallery, decorated in
front with a light ballustrade, encircles the whole
of the church except the chancel. Over the chief
entrance stands an organ in the front of the gallery.,
The place is sufficiently spacious to accommodate a/
congregation of 1600 to 2000 persons, and by the
judicious disposition of the pews, the officiating
clergyman is visible from almost every part. The
window of the chancel is enriched with a represen-
tation of our Lord's Resurrection, by Eginton, from
a design by West."
The collegiate church of St. Mary, said to have
been founded by Edgar, bears evident marks of a
much earlier origin. In the time of Edward the
Confessor, it held great landed estates, of a con-
siderable part of which it was deprived soon after
the Norman Conquest. From very remote times it
enjoyed the privileges of a royal free chapel, and
was therefore exempt from the jurisdiction of a
bishop. The dean had, from time immemorial, the
power of collecting and paying into the king's ex-
chequer, the tenths or other subsidies arising from
the deanery or prebends. At the Dissolution of the
college in the second of Edward the Sixth, it had
a dean, nine poor prebendaries, &c. The greater
part of the tythes was given by Edward the Sixth
to the newly founded school. — The church stands at
the north eastern part of the town, in an area which'
has still the retired appearance of a collegiate close.
It is a large venerable building, in the form of a cross,
consisting of a nave, side-aisle, transept, choir, and
chapels, with a western steeple. The exterior ex-
hibits various styles of architecture. From th<v
tower, which is very large, but low, rises a lofty
and beautiful spire. — On the south side of the church
is a stone porch of early Norman architecture. The
interior is strikingly noble, and, with the exception
to dinner the noble Sir Andrew Coibet, then lieutenant of the
shire, with divers other gentlemen of quality, that good baronet
was desirous lo see the place which preserved the reliques of
that excellent man ; and finding it much decayed, after a
friendly correction of his host, seriously enjoined him to repair
the tomb, whereby the memory of his most deserving grand-
father was kept alive. He, without any ado, effected what he
spake for, and promised himself to become the poet for an
epitaph, which, is as follows ;
•' Here lieth the body of Edward Burton, Esq.
who deceased. Anno Domini 1558.
" Was't for lienviiis) Christ, or some notorious fact
That this man's body Christian burial lackt'?
O no ! his faithful true profession
Was the chief cause, which was then held transgression :
When Popery here did reign, the see of Rome
Would not admit to any such a tomb
Within their idol temple walls, but he
T'uly professing Christianity,
Was like Christ Jesus in a garden laid,
Where he shall rest in peace till it be said,
Come, faithful servant, come receive with me
A just reward for thine integrity. — 1614." •
of
SHROPSHIRE.
of that of Ludlow, by far the handsomest in the
county. The great window, which terminates the
chancel, contains the fine stained glass brought from
the ruins of St. Chad's. At the bottom of the piece,
is represented the patriarch Jesse, in a deep sleep.
His upper robe is yellow, edged with embroidery
and lined with ermine, clasped over the shoulder
with a rich brooch. His tunic is blue and his hose
are green, both beautifully diapered ; he rests on
his arm, and his head appears covered by a red
velvet cap, doubled with ermine, exactly similar to
that under the crown of our raonarchs, and is sup-
potted on a cushion of green embroidery, decorated
at the four corners with tassels of gold. From his
loins, proceeds a vine, the branches of which spread
over the whole window, inclosing in each of their
oval compartments, a king or a patriarch of the
ancestry of Joseph, the husband of the Virgin
Mary, who himself kneels at the feet of his pro-
genitor. The ground of the whole is a vivid red,
on which the white and yellow clusters of grapes,
and the bright verdure of vine-leaves, are displayed
with great effect. David is designated by his harp,
and by an instrument in his left hand, probably re-
presenting a kind of plectra. n. Three of the com-
partments, which in the original window were ranged
below the genealogy, contain figures of warriors, in
the hauberk or linked armour, each kneeling under
a foliated tabernacle. They are supposed to have
been branches of the noble family of Charlton of
Powis, who set up this window. — Attached to the
south side of the chancel, is a large and lofty cha-
pel, originally dedicated to the service of the patron
saint. Over the doors are labels of scriptural texts in
honour of her. It is now used as a Sunday-school.
• — In the month of August, 1816, an altar-tomb, in
this chapel, on which is a recumbent figure of a
knight in linked armour, with the legs over each
other, and a lion couchant at his feet, was removed
into the chancel. On opening the grave, filled with
rubbish, and not far below the surface, some leg and
thigh bones and a scull were found together, evident-
ly belonging to two grown-up persons and a child ;
the length of one pair of the thigh bones was 19
incites, and of the leg bones 15 inches ; of another,
the thigh bones were 18 inches, and the leg bones
14 inches. On digging to the bottom, which, as
well as the sides of the grave, was a complete piece
of masonry, rather more than three feet deep, a tole- '
rably perfect skeleton was discovered, wrapped up
in leather, and, 'singular to relate, without a head,
no appearance of which could be found ; the hands
were traversed upon the breast, and the leather,
considering tho time it must have lain there, was
very perfect. The coffin, with the exception of some
very small fragments adhering to several large nails
nearly consumed by rust, had entirely mouldered
away. This headless skeleton was five feet three
inches long, the thigh bones 19f inches, and the
leg bones 16 inches. It wns ndt disturbed, and
the other bones, which had been token out for
the gratification of the curious, several of whom
were soon assembled, were afterwards put in again,
and the grave closed up. Various conjectures were
hazarded respecting this skeleton, some holding that
it was designed for Hotspur, who was slain in the
battle of Battlefield, or Shrewsbury ; and others,
that it belonged to Roger Legborne, who, amongst
the knights of Shropshire, in 1263, took up arms
for Henry III. against the faction of the Earl of
Leicester.
There are some ancient tombs in the church, and
some modern monuments, the epitaphs of which are
appropriate and elegant. Against the tower is an
inscription to the memory of Robert Cadman, who,
in January, 1740, lost his life in a hair-brained
attempt to descend from the top of the spire along
a rope which he had affixed to its highest part, and
extended to a field on the opposite side of the river.
It appears he had attempted similar feats, several
times before, with success. A prelate, from whom
he had asked permission to fix a line to the steeple
of a cathedral, for the like purpose, replied, that
the man might fly to the church whenever he pleased,
but he should never give his consent for any one to
ftyfrom it. On this occasion, however, in the midst
of his passage, the rope broke, and he was preci-
pitated into St. Mary's friars, amidst thousands of
spectators. There being a hard frost at the time,
his body rebounded to the height of several feet,
and he died instantly. From various epitaphs
proposed on the occasion, the following was pre-
ferred : —
Let this small monument record the name
Of Cadman, and lo future times proclaim,
How, from a bold attempt to fly from this high spire,
Across the Sabrine stream, he did acquire
His fatal end : 'Twas not for want of skill,
Or courage, to perform the task, he fell ;
No, no, a faulty cord, being drawn ioo tight,
Hurried his soul on high to take her flight,
Which bid the body here beneath good night.
The church of St. Alkmund was founded here by
Queen Elfleda, daughter of Otta, King of Mercia,
and Queen of Kcnwolf. King Edgar, by the advice
of St. Dunstan, established in it ten priests, for
whose maintenance he appointed rich prebends or
portions in land. Its patron saint was a Prince of
the Northumbrian family, who is said to have been
buried at Lilleshull, in this county ; or, at Whit-
church, whence his body was translated to Derby.
In the year 1130, when monastic institutions were
universally popular, and the colleges of the secular
clergy had fallen into disrepute, Richard de Bel-
meys, the dean, voluntarily surrendered the estate
of the deanery which lay at Lilleshull, towards the
endowment of an abbey of canons regular of St.
Augustine, about to be erected on that spot, made
sacred by the sepulture of the patron saint of his
church ; and, so great was his zeal for this new
institution, that he solicited, and obtained the con-
sent of the Pope and King Stephen for dissolving
the
SHROPSHIRE.
173
the college entirely, nnd for transferring all its
estates to the new abbey, which was also dedicated
to St. Alkmund^ Thus stripped of all its landed
property, the church sunk to a poor vicarage, which,
continued in the patronage of tile monks of Lillo-
'iiill, till the Dissolution, when it became vested in
the crown. — This church was erected at different
periods, and exhibited various styles of architecture.
Of its antiquity, however, few features remain ; for
the pi-.nie caused by the sudden fall of St. Chad's,
induced the parishioners of St. Alkmund's to peti-
tion Parliament for leave to pull down the body of
the old church, and to erect a new one in its stead,
which was opened for Divine service, in 1795. The
modern building is a tolerable imitation of the ancient
pointed architecture. Its plan is an oblong1 square,
82 feet by 44, with a small recess for the altar.
The interior is without pillars or galleries, except-
ing one at the west end, and has a flat ceiling with
stucco ornaments. Over the altar, is a window
painted by EgiiUon, representing Evangelical Faith,
in a female figure as large as life, kneeling on a
cross, with the eyes elevated, and arms extended
towards a celestial crown, which appears amidst
the opening clouds. The motto is, " Be thou faith-
ful unto death, and I will give thee a crown of life."
At the west end is a beautiful spirersteeple, which
escaped the fate of the church. The height of the
tower, which contains six old bells, is 70 feet ; that
of the spire, 114 ; making the whole height of the
steeple, 184 feet.
St. Julian's church, which is of Saxon origin, was
distinguished, through several reigns, as a rectory,
and royal free chapel, with a peculiar jurisdiction ;
but it has sunk into a stipendiary curacy. Except
the tower, it is modern, of brick and stone. Its
interior is handsome and commodious. The east
•window is filled with fine painted glass, consisting
chiefly of a large ancient figure of St. James, pur-
chased in 1804, from a splendid collection brought
from Rouen. In the east wall of the chancel is a
small female figure within a foliated tabernacle,
preserved from the ruins of the old church, and
probably representing St. Juliana, the patroness, a
noble lady of Florence, who suffered martyrdom in
the ninth century.
Of the convents in this town, few remains are
visible. A portion of that belonging to the Fran-
ciscans, on the banks of the Severn, has been con-
verted into houses^ The convent of Austin friars,
at the bottom of Barker Street, may still be traced
in the shell of a large building, with two pointed
arched doorways. The convent of the Dominicans
occupied a meadow along the river, betw.een the
Water-lane-gate, and the English bridge ; scarcely
a fragment of it remains.
Of the splendid collegiate chapel of St. Michael,
within the castle, not even the site is distinguish-
able, though it probably existed, in a ruinous state,
in the reign of James the Second. Part of the
chapel of St. Nicholas, on the left hand entrance of
VOL. iv. — NO. 153.
the council-house, is still standing, having been
converted into a stable. The chapels of St. Catha-
rine, St. Blaise, St. Mary Magdalene, &c. have
disappeared.
The Roman Catholics, Moravians, Quakers, Wes-
leyan Methodists, &c. have places of worship in
tins town.
The hospital of St. Giles, in the Abbey Foregate,
existed as early as the reign of Henry the Second,
who, if not the founder, was a benefactor to it. In-
ks existing state the lepers are succeeded by four
poor persons, who inhabit the same number of alms-
houses nearly adjoining the church of St. Giles,,
the chapel of the old hospital. The office of mas-
ter is held by the Earl of Tankerville, who nomi-
nates the alms-people, and pays Is. Orf. weekly to
each, with coals, and an upper garment annually.
Of the hospital of St. John the Baptist and St.
George, which stood at the extremity of the Welsh,
bridge, there are now no traces. — St. Chad's alms-
houses, founded in 1409, by Bennet Typton, a pub-
lic brewer, are much improved. St. Mary's alms-
houses, are very wretched and filthy.— Mi"ington's.<
hospital, a respectable brick building, on au eminence
at the extremity of Frankwell, was endowed by a.
draper of Shrewsbury. It affords shelter and sup-
port to twelve poor persons. There are also pro-
visions for the relief of out-pensioners, and for the
cloathing, education, and apprenticing of 40 poor
children. Two exhibitions of 40/. a year each, are-
founded for the students of Magdalene College,
Cambridge. — The Salop Infirmary, in St. Mary's
church-yard, originally a mansion-house, was form-
ed in 1745, and is supported by voluntary subscrip-
tions and -benefactions. — The House of Industry
owes its origin to an asylum formerly opened in
Dog Lane, for the reception of orphans from the-
Foundling Hospital, in London. The governors
of that institution were induced to enlarge their
colony at Shrewsbury ; and the building, now the
House of Industry, was erected at their sole charge.
It was begun in 1760, and finished at an expence of-
more than 12,000/. Children were sent down from
London in great numbers, and put out to nurse
with the neighbouring cottagers, under the inspec-
tion of the gentlemen in the vicinity. At a proper
age they were taken into the house, where they
were employed in the manufacture of wool, and
afterwards placed out a's apprentices. At one time,
there were more than 400 orphans in the hospital,
under the care of superintendents and teachers. —
The funds of the Foundling Hospital, however,
:>eiiig inadequate to the extensive plan of branching
out the charity into various counties, the managers
•eased1 to send children to the provincial establish-
ments, and the Shrewsbury house was consequently
shut up. The rapid increase of the parochial rates
nduced the inhabitants to petition Parliament for an
act to incorporate the five parishes of the town and
VIeole Brace, as far as concerned the poor, and to
stablish a general. House of Industry. In 1/81,
2 x they
174
SHROPSHIRE.
they purchased the Orphan Hospital from the
governors of the Foundling charity ; and, having
Annexed to it 30 acres of good land, they converted
it into an asylum for the poor. The average num-
ber maintained in the house, including children, is
ahout 275. The internal regulations, which regard
their employment and maintenance, are of the most
judicious kind.
At the dissolution of the abbey, the town was left
without any establishment for public education,
until the inhabitants represented their necessities to
Edward the Sixth, who granted certain tythes from
the former possessions of St. Mary's and St. Chad's,
for the endowment of a Free Grammar School.
Two masters were appointed ; and the bishop of
Lichfield, with the bailiffs and burgesses, were
nominated governors. Queen Elizabeth gave the
whole rectory of Cuirbury, with additional tythes
and estates belonging to St. Mary's. — The decline
of tliis foundation was remedied by an act of Par-
liament, in 1798. The management of the reve-
nues, and the removal or discharge of school-mas-
ters, were by this act vested in the bishop of Lichfield
and Coventry as visitor, and in thirteen trustees or
governors, of whom the mayor, for the time being,
is one. The appointment of masters rests solely in
St. John's college, Cambridge.
Bowdler's Charity-School was founded in 1724,
by Mr. Thomas Dowdier, alderman and draper, for
the instruction, cloathing, and apprenticing, of poor
children, in the parish of St. Julian. The Sub-
scription Charity - School, established for similar
purposes, in 1708, by the town at large, is situated
near the abbey church. Allatt's Charity School
was instituted in 1708, by Mr. John Allatt, many
years chamberlain of the corporation, who bequeath-
ed his fortune, including his garden at the bottom
of Swan Hill, to endow and erect two schools for
the education of poor children of the town of Shrews-
bury, the parents of whom have not received paro-
chial relief, besides a sum to be laid out annually in
coats and gowns for poor old men and widows.
The seminary is a plain but elegant structure, of
free-stone, having two commodious houses united
to the school- rooms by arcades. The expence of
the erection was about 2000/. ; the interest of tho
residue maintains the master and mistress, who
instruct twenty boys, and as many girls, in reading,
writing, and arithmetic, and the girls in sewing.
They are cloathed twice a year, and at a proper age
apprenticed.
The assizes are supposed to have been anciently
held in the castle, and that the first regular Town
Hall was erected near the site of the present, soon
after the borough was first incorporated. By a deed
of the thirtieth of Henry the Sixth, A. D. 1452, it
appears, that forty marks out of the " town stock"
were allowed towards the erection of a new hall ;
the old one to be pulled down, and the new one
to be built, with a tower, over the exchequer. This,
which was re-edified in 1530, was probably the
building which remained until it gave place to the
present structure. — The old town hall was a large,
but low, timber building, with a clock turret, and
I stood across the present square, at right angles,
with ahout the centre of the space now occupied oy
the new hall. The rooms on the ground -floor were
let out for shops, and a covered passage for car-
riages communicated with the high-street. Over
these was a low room, called the ball. It was 63
feet by 25|. In this room the assizes, sessions, and
other courts, were held. Adjoining this, at right
angles, was a more spacious apartment, called the
green room; or, "agreeing room, or chamber of
concord." This was also used as an assembly and
card room, and at the south end was the exchequer,
where the mayor had held his courts, and where the
archives of the corporation were deposited. — At the
summer assizes, in 1783, it was determined to erect
a new hall for the county, and an act of parliament
was obtained for this purpose. The present hall was
completed in 1785, and first used at the summer
assizes of the same year. It was designed by Mr.
Haycock of Shrewsbury, and the whole expence,
raised by a county rate, amounted to about 11,000/.
It has a handsome stone front to the street. The
ground floor consists of a vestibule, and two courts
for the assizes. Under that appropriated to the
crown bar is a cell, for the reception of prisoners.
A beautiful spiral stone staircase leads to the higher
story, where is a large room for county 'meetings,
an apartment for grand juries, with record and other
offices. In the great room is a valuable and in-
creasing subscription library. — In the grand jury
room are portraits of George the First and Second,
and one of Admiral Benbow.
In 1786, an act was obtained for the erection of
a county gaol, after the plan of Howard ; and Mr.
Haycock, of Shrewsbury, having furnished the plan,
the building was completed in 1793, at an expence
of about 30,000/. towards which, the old gaol was
sold by auction. The pleasant terrace on the south
side of the prison wall, was soon afterwards made. —
The gaol is entirely separate from the town, and
a little detached from the castle. It stands on a
beautiful and salubrious cliff of dry gravel over the
river. The building is of brick, and possesses every
appropriate excellence. In the keeper's house, is
an apartment for the use of the magistrates. The
chapel stands in the oentre of the whole, and is
contrived so as to separate every class of prisoners,
yet, so that the minister may be seen by all the
congregation. — The house of correction, or county
bridewell, is within the new prison, and partakes of
the benefit of its government and regulations ; the
' prisoners of the town gaol are also now incorporated
| with those of the county gaol. — A Court of Con-
science, for the recovery of small debts, was granted
to this town and liberty, by Queen Elizabeth ; and
in 17S3, an act of parliament was passed, establish-
ing
SHROPSHIRE.
in» a Court of Requests, for the recovery of debts
not amounting to forty shillings, and exceeding two
shillings, in a summary way.
We understand that the earliest corporation seal
of Shrewsbury, with an armorial shield, is that in-
scribed " SIGILLVM BALLIVORVM SALopi* :" the seal
of the bailiffs of Shrewsbury : with three lions pas-
sant gnardant. The present arms of the town,
three leopards' faces, are found for the first time
on the superb seal, which is still used, and which
was engraven in the year 1425. This seal, which
is a very curious piece of workmanship, represents
a -view of the town, with its churches, houses,
bridges, and circum-ambicnt. river. Over a mag-
nificent gate are the lions of England : on one side,
the present town arms ; on the other, the cross of
St. George, to denote the Welch, or St. George's,
bridge.
In the year 1595, the old market buildings were
removed, and the present edifice erected on their
site. It is exceedingly spacious and magnificent,
entirely of free-stone, with its principal front facing
the west. In the centre, over a spacious portal, are
the arms of Queen Elizabeth, in alto relievo, under
a rich canopy. In a tabernacled niche, above the
northern arch, and between the lower window, stands
a statue of Richard, Duke of York, the great patron
of Shrewsbury. On his right hand is the following
inscription : " This statue was removed by order of
the mayor, from the tower of the Welch bridge, in
the year 1791." On his left are the town arms, in
relief. The lower area, 105 feet by 24, is used as
a corn market; over which is a large room, or
rather rooms, now used as warehouses. In the
year 1804, this substantial building underwent a
thorough repair, at an expence to the corporation of
more than 500/. — Adjoining the market-house is
one of the conduits which furnish the inhabitants
with excellent spring water. — The market-cross is
an ugly brick and stone structure, holding on its
top a large reservoir, on groined -arches, capable of
ccntaining 700 barrels of water, which is supplied
every day by a wheel, in eight hours each time.
The scheme of supplying the town with water from
the Severn, originated, in 1705, with a Mr. Al-
dersly, of London ; who erected his works under
the stone, or English bridge ; for which privilege
he was to pay five shillings per annum, and receive
aW the profits. — Near the market-cross are the
butchers' shambles, extending along the south side
of the street, called Pride-hill. These form a nar-
row lane, named Double Butcher-row, at right
angles with it. This plac« is remarkable for the
plenty and excellence of the provisions there ex-
posed to sale. The fish-market, in a narrow lane,
called Fish-street, is mean and inconvenient.
In the year 1810, a fine Doric column was erected
in this town, from a design by Mr. Edward Hay-
cock, of Shrewsbury, and Mr. Hanson of Chester,
in honour of Lord Hill, whose name will descend
to posterity, as that of one of the first military
heroes that Britain ever produced. The following
arc the dimensions of the column : —
Ft. In.
Height of the Pedestal 13 6
Shaft anil Capital 90 0
Pedestal lathe Statue... 11 6
; i Statue 16 0
Entire height 131 0
Diameter of the column at the plinth 15 0
• capital... 11 6
The colossal statue, by which this column is sur-
mounted, is that of Lord Hill. Within the column,
which is said to be the most lofty of the Doric order
ever erected, is a handsome stone staircase, with
iron balustrades and railing. — The magnitude ot this
grateful tribute to public talent and private worth,
will best appear on its being compared with some
of the most remarkable structures of a similar kind.
The monument in London is 15 feet in diameter,
Lord Nelson's column at Dublin 13 feet, and the ,
height of the shaft and capital, about 77 feet. The
column erected by Buonaparte, at Paris, is 14 feet,
in diameter, and 120 feet in height : so that Lord
Hill's column will be equal in diameter to the
monument, two feet more than Lord Nelson's, and
exclusive of the pedestal, 13 feet higher. It exceeds
the diameter of the Paris column one foot.
The gild or fraternity of the Holy Trinity of the
" mistery of drapers," was founded by Edward the
Fourth, in 1460; and by James the First incorpo-
rated into the present Drapers' Company. Their
hall is a large room in an old timber house in St.
Mary's church-yard ; and in it hangs a portrait of
the royal founder, placed there in 1659. — The Mer-
cers' Company have no hall, but transact their
business at one of the inns. The composition was
confirmed May llth, 1480, by Edward, Prince of
Wales. — At the upper end of High Street, is an
ancient red stone building, formerly the hall of the
Cloth-workers, or Shearmans' Company. A large
ancient timber house, called the Old Post-office,
adjoins the south side. This hall has undergone
several alterations in its structure, and has been
applied, at various times, to very different purposes :
it has been the seat of useful commerce — it has been
devoted to the amusements of the stage— it has been
a methodist chapel ; — and it was lately a tea-ware-
house.
According to tradition, the theatre is part of the
ancient palace of the Princes of Powisland. John
de Charlton, who married an heiress of the line of
Powis, obtained a licence, in 1308, to embattle this
mansion, and hence it acquired the name of Churl-
ton Hall. After various changes and transfers, it
became the property of the Waring family. Its
most considerable remnant, is a building of red
stone, in length one hundred feet, and in breadth
thirty- one, which is now the theatre. The interior
consists of a tolerably roomy pit, a ground tier of
boxes, with upper side-boxes, and a good-sized
gallery.
The
176
SHROPSHIRE.
The Council House stands boldly on a steep
bank, which impends over the river. The entrance
to it from the town is by a venerable timber gate-
house, the ornaments of which are buried under a
coat of plaster. The buildings inclose three sides
of a small court, and are divided into two handsome
houses. The western portion is of timber, cased
with brick, and seems more modern than the rest.
The south front is also cased with brick, but the
original walls of red stone appear OH the northern
and eastern parts. The great hall and the chamber
over it, both ruinous, are the only parts which have
not been modernized ; much of the former at present
constitutes part of the adjoining house. The bay
window of the hall has no longer any remains of
painted glass. The chimney-piece is a pure Gre-
cian design, and extends from the floor to the ceil-
ing ; in the ^centre of it are the arms of Owen of
Cmidover, impaling Gerard, with the initials, R. O.
The chamber above this apartment is fifty feet by
twenty-six, and is richly adorned with elaborate
carving, rudely designed, but finely executed. The
chimney bears two grotesque figures of Adam and
Eve, and the coved ceiling has a profusion of deco-
rations in plaster. Charles the First kept his court
here during his residence in Shrewsbury. — The
White Hall, in the Abbey Foregate, was commenced
in March 1578, and completed in four years. It is
a venerable red-stone mansion, white- washed. It
is lofty, square, and compact ; the roof finished with
pointed g;ibles, the ehimnies highly ornamented, and
the whole crowned with an octagonal turret in the
centre. The ancient hall has been converted into
a spacious parlour ; and nearly the whole inside of
the building modernized. The gate-house is still
standing, and parts of the original garden walls.
The Bell Stone House, in Barker Street, is a
good specimen of the smaller mansion of Queen
Elizabeth's reign. It is built of red stone, and in-
closes three sides of a small court. It appears to
have been erected by Edward Owen, alderman and
draper, and bailiff of the corporation in 1582. —
Jones's mansion, at the corner of Ox-Lane, leading
to St. Alkmimd's, is in various styles ot'architecture.
It was built by Thomas Jones, alderman, who was
appointed, by Charles the First, the first mayor of
the corporation.
A military depot was erected hereby government in
the year 1806, on a piece of ground near St. Giles's
church. It was designeu by Wyatt. The principal j
building is one hundred and thirty-five fe::t by
thirty-nine, divided into an upper and lower story,
and capable of containing 25,000 stand of arms.
Within the enclosure are two magazines for ammu-
nition, and a small neat house at each angle, for
the store-keeper, armourer, and a subaltern's guard.
This edifice was built with the intention of contain-
ing the arms of the volunteer corps within this and
the adjoining counties, in the titne^of peace.
Amongst the eminent characters, natives of this
town, may be mentioned, Mr. Thomas Churchyard, a
poet of sorat note in his time ; Admiral John Benbow,
one of the most eminent English seamen mentioned
in our history ; the Rev. Hugh Farmer, author of
several learned and critical works, &c.
The Shelton Oak, about a mile and a half from
Shrewsbury, is remarkable from a tradition, that,
at the battle of Shrewsbury, Owen Glyndwr ascend-
ed it to reconnoitre; and finding that the king was
in great force, and that the Earl of Northumberland
had joined his son Hotspur, he fell back to Oswestry,
and, immediately after the battle, retreated precipi-
tately to Wales. The following are given, in a
modern work, as the dimensions of this venerable
tree :
Feet. Inc.
Girt at bottom, close to the ground 44 3
Ditto, 5 feet from the ground 25 1
Ditto, 8 feet ditto 27 4
The heighf of the tree to the top of the main trunk,
or principal bough 41 6
Haughmond Abbey, four miles east from Shrews-
bury, occupies a rising ground, backed by an ex-
tensive chace or forest, bearing much of the original
wild and romantic character. In trout, the abbey
commands a rich and extensive view of the plain of
Shrewsbury, with the town and castle, enriched by
mountainous tracts : in the fore-ground appears the
fine demesne of Sundorn House, within which the
ruins are included. There was formerly a farm-
house on the spot ; but it has been removed to some
distance, and. this venerable pile is now totally de-
serted. Of the abbey-church, nothing remains but
the south door of the nave, a beautiful and highly
adorned round arch, resting on slender shafts,
between which on each side have been inserted a
Gothic tabernacle, inclosing statues of St. Peter and
St. Paul. The chapter-house is entire. Its roof is
of fine oak, and above has been another story. South
of the chapter-house, are the remains of the refec-
tory, and beyond a large building consisting of a
spacious hall, eighty-one feet by thirty-six, lighted
by Gothic windows on each side, and a .large one,
once filled with tracery, at the west end. On the.
north side is a curious antique fire-place. — This
abbey, which belongs to John Corbet, Esq. was
founded in 1100, by William Fitz-Alan, and he
conferred on it the land on which it stood, with all
its appurtenances. — Lcland says, "there was an
hermitage and a chapel on this spot before the abbey
was built. William Fitz-Allen and his wife, with
Robert Fitz-Allen, and others, are there buried, also
Richard Fitz-Allen, a child, who fellout of his nurse's
arms from the battlements of Slmuvardine Castle."
— Behind the abbey, on the verge and slope of the
hill, runs a wood of some extent,; and emerging
from thence, lie the fine lauds of Mr. Corbet, adorned
on one side by a rich plantation and a hill, crowned
witli a shooting-box in the form of an ancient turret.
Near it, Lord Douglas, in the battle of Shrewsbury,
was taken prisoner, in attempting to precipitate him-
self down the steep, when his horse f«ll under, him,
and
SHROPSHIRE.
177
and he received a severe contusion on his knee. The
piece of armour, covering the knee-pan, was some
years ago dug up, and was recently in the pos-
session of theowner of the estate.
STOKE CAJTLF..] — This building, near the village
of Onebury, in Munslow hundred, is a curious spe-
cimen of the castellated mansion of former days.
A gate-house constructed of wooden frame-work,
•with curious carvings, leads to the door of a large
and lofty hall ; and at the end of this part of the
edifice is an octagonal tower, with winding stairs.
It is the property of Lord Craven.
STRETTON, CHURCH.] — Church Stretton, perhaps
so called from the word Street-town, is a small
market-town, situated in a low valley, 13 miles S.
by W. from Shrewsbury, and 159| N.W. by W. from
London. It contains a small old town-house, a free-
school for twenty boys, and a church, built in the
form of a cross, having a tower in the centre. The
two hamlets of All Stretton and Little Stretton
belong to this town, between which and the latter
place are deep entrenchments, called " Brocard's
Castle," on the summit of an insulated hill. To
the north-east of the town is Caer-Caradoc, a lofty
bill, with entrenchments on its summit : it probably
acquired that name from having been one of the
military stations of Caractacus. Every petty rivulet
flowing from these hills has excellent trout. At
Church Stretton was born Dr. Roger Mainwaring,
chaplain to Charles I. and Bishop of St. David's.
TONGE.J — Tonge, four miles E. by S. from Shiff-
iiull, is a considerable village, remarkable for its
church, anciently collegiate, and its castle. The
former, which stands within the fine demesne of
Tonge Castle, is a beautiful and interesting struc-
ture, built in the pointed style of the fourteenth
century. In the centre rises a handsome, and some-
what curious steeple. Immediately above the roof,
it is square ; on this rests an octagonal bell story,
which is surmounted by a very neat, but not lofty
spire, the angles of which are adorned, about half
way up, with small pinnacles. The interior con-
tains some superb monuments of the Pemhridges
and Vernons, and an altar-piece of tabernacle- work.
In the steeple is a very large and ancient bell,
weighing 40 hundred weight.
Tonge Castle was erected in the last century, by
* In the turbulent times of Charles I. and the Common-
wealth, this i;entleman remained faithful to the king, and never
disavowed his loyalty. He was lord mayor of London in 1645,
and filled the office in the most faithful and disinterested man-
ner. Making no secret of his reverence for the Prerogative of
Royalty, he had the title of "the Prerogative Lord Mayor,"
and was compared hy the saints of his day to the wicked Ahaz,
for breaking, as they said, his promise ; he was even sent to
the Tower. His attachment, however, to the royal cause, was
strengthened by these persecutions, and he carried his zeal so
far as to remit 10.000/. to Charles II. At the Restoration, he
was deputed by the corporation to attend the king to England,
ami Charles was so far mindful of his services, that he advanced
him to the dignity of a baronet. Besides the free-school at
VOL. IV. — NO. 154.
George Durant, Esq. The architecture is a mixture
of the Gothic and Moorish styles, bad in detail, but
producing a striking effect, by its numerous turrets,
the rich colour of ttie materials, and two lofty and
magnificent Turkish domes.
WALLCOT PARK.] — This demesne, four milrsW.
by N. from Wellington, is extensive, finely laid out,
and well stocked with deer. The mansion, built of
brick, stands on a gently rising eminence. On a
hill, called Tongley, within the verge of the inclo-
sure, are vestiges of a British encampment, willed
Bury Ditches ; the area is circular, of great extent,
and defended by three deep trenches, with high
mounds or ramparts. A grand and varied scene is
beheld from the summit of this eminence ; on one
hand, Clun, with its mined castle, on another
Bishop's Castle, with a valley, stretched between
both, displaying the charming effects of culture and
fertility ; and on all sides, the prospect is enlivened
by a rich pastoral landscape, finely, contrasted with
the bold and naked hills which bound it.
WELLINGTON.] — This neat little town lies 12f
miles E. by S. from Shrewsbury, and 151 N, W.
from London. The church of Wellington is a hand-
some modern structure. Charles I. here mustered
his forces, on his march to Shrewsbury, and made
his solemn protestation that he would defend the
established religion, govern by law, and presrrve
the liberty of the subject. — At some distance, adjoin-
ing the road leading to Shrewsbury, is Orleton, the
seat of William Cludde, Esq. The house is situated
on a rich verdant lawn, well wooded. Although the
mansion jias a modern air, it is very ancient, and
was formerly enclosed with walls and a gate-house,
surrounded by a moat. Here is a valuable collection
of pictures, by the old masters.
WEM.] — Wem, lOf miles N. by E. from Shrews-
bury, and 172i N. W. from London, consists of one
large open street, and some mean lanes. Its church
is a handsome building, with a lofty tower, and fine
chancel. The manor was given to Judge Jefferies,
by James II. with the title of Baron Wem, which,
on the death of his son, became extinct. The free-
school was founded and endowed by Sir Thomas
Adams, who was born at Wem, in 1586.*
WENLOCK.] — Great or Much Wenlock lies 13
miles S. E. from Shrewsbury, and 147^ N.W. from
London.
Wem, he founded an Arabic professorship at Oxford, and
caused the Persian Gospels to be printed and dispersed in the
east, with the intent, as he expressed it, of throwing a stone at
the forehead of Mahomet. Liberal in his charities, graceful in
his person, amiable in his deportment, and eloquent in his
discourse, he won the respect and esteem of all, and attracted
others to the path of virtue by the brightness of his example.
He died in 1667, aged 81.
Wycherley, an eminent comic writer, and a favourite of
Charles II. was born near Wem. Like some other unfortunate
votaries of the nine, his affairs were seldom in a flourishing
condition, and though often on intimate terms with nobility, he
languished seven years in prison, till James If. ordered the
payment of his debts> and settled on him a pension of 200/. pet
2 T annum.
178
SHROPSHIRE.
London. It is an ancient corporation, and said to
have been the first town that sent members to par-
liament, by a writ from Edward IV. in 1478. It
consists of a bailiff, recorder, two justices of the
peace, and twelve capital hurgesses. Wenlock
chiefly owes its celebrity to the remains of an
nncient abbey, a cell to that of Cluny, but natura-
lized iu the reign of Richard II. This rich Clu-
niac monastery was situated in a low valley, on
the south side of the town. The entrance was
by a strong gateway, one massive tower of which
is now standing. Very considerable remains still
exist. The church was a spacious and magnificent
structure, built in the pure Gothic style of the
thirteenth century. The west front consisted of a
large triple lancet window, and several tiers of
small arches. The fragment of the south side shews
three pointed arches, over which are the remains of
a beautiful gallery, which ran along the whole second
story of the church, and consisted of a series of
two pointed arches. Between the greater arches
below ran slender clustered pilasters, and where
they break off are remains of ramifications of a
groined ceiling. Part of the south side aisle is now
a stable ; over it is a large vaulted chamber of the
same size, probably occupied by those of the reve-
rend fraternity who were to perform the midnight
office. The whole shell of the chapter-house is
standing, a curious specimen of Norman architec-
ture. The eastern side has a singular sort of
ambulatory in front leading to the principal rooms ;
traces of painting, particularly the figure of St.
George, may be observed on the walls. The prior's
private oratory is now a dairy ; and the altar, a fine
slab of red stone, remains entire. The abbey, with
a great part of the town, is the property of Sir W.
\V. Wynne. The parish church of Wenlock bears
many marks of Saxon antiquity. It has a square
tower, surmounted by a spire of wood, covered with
lead.
WEST FELTON.] — See Oswestry.
WHITCHURCH.] — The handsome market-town of
Whitchurch, 20 miles N. by E. from Shrewsbury,
and 160 N. W. by N. from London, is seated on an
acclivity, at the top of which is the church, com-
manding an extensive view of the distant country.
Two recumbent stone figures which it contains, re-
present two of the Talbots : one, the renowned John,
marshal of France, during the reign of Henry VI.
annum. He died in 1715. Mr. John Ireland was born in the
same house as Wyclierley ; his strong predilection for literature
and painting made him fond of pictures, prints, and books.
Besides many other eminent men, he was the friend of Gains-
borough, and th<- first protector of Henderson, whose life and
letters he publbhed in 1786. He was also author of Hogarth
Illustrated; a book abounding with anecdotes, related in a
lively agreeable style, and always connected with the subject, i
He di«.('l in 1808.
* This prodigy of long life was born in 1483, Rfg. Edw 4,
and (lied in 1635, Reg. Churl. I. having lived 152 years and nine i
months. The events ot that period are the most interesting in
our history; the civil wars of York and Lancaster, Richard's
usurpation, and bis defeat at Itosworth. The establishment of 1
the other, Christopher, fourth son of John, second
Earl of Shrewsbury. Abraham Whelock, a person
of great learning, and translator of the new Testa-
ment into the Persian language, was born at Whit-
church. He died in 1654. There is an excellent
free-school, at which many persons of eminence
have received (heir grammatical learning.
WHITE LADIES.]— See Boscobel.
WHITTINGTON CASTLE.] — See Osvwstry.
WINNINGTON.] — This is a small village near the
Welch border, remarkable for nothing, but for having
been the birth-place of Thomas Parr.*
WoRtiELD.] — See Burcott.
WREKIN.] — The view from the highest point of
this eminence is particularly delightful ; the vast
plain of Salop, with its inclosures ; the bold outline
of the Welch hills, the whole varied with woods or
forests, are objects that meet the eye ; and there is
also a field for the fancy, in this extended prospect,
not often found.
WROXETER.] — Wroxeter, seven miles S. E. by E.
from Shrewsbury, is one of the most interesting
places in the county. Its high antiquity and ancient
importance, render it a mine worthy of the notice of
the antiquary, and the medalist. Many reliques have
been discovered, and some preserved. It is supposed
to have been the Uriconiurn of the Romans, a con-
! jecture supported by the remains of a rampart, ditch,
and walls of great extent and solidity of formation,
which mark the ancient boundaries of the city and
fortress. These remains are a mixture of British and
Roman architecture. A square sudatory was dis-
covered, but destroyed. The part of the wall now
standing, nearly eight feet high, and twenty yards
long, has in it three regular strata of Roman brick.
Besides several sepulchral inscriptions, and many
coins, entire human skeletons have been found, in
deep and capacious graves, having red clay spread
over and under them ; the whole covered with thin
slabs of stone, over which were heaped, in some
instances, five or six larger stones, with clay.
Moulds, for the purpose of casting Roman money,
have also been discovered. In 1808, a person
ploughing in the field near the Roman wall, turned
up a seal, having an inscription of which no one has
yet been able to give a satisfactory explication. Its
diameter is one inch, and near the edge there is a
small bent figure, resembling a single branch of a
tree.
the king's supremacy over the church ; Mary's efforts to restore
religion to its primitive state ; Elizabeth's prosperous reiun ; and
the beginning of Chailes's troubles are the mo-t prominent
features in the detail. To all these old Parr's life lormed tl>«
most perfect contrast —
"Hi* years made up one peaceful family."
Such was his viguur, that at 122 he married a Welch widow,
and three years alter did penance for an amour with a fair
damsel, who filiaied a child on him. Being conducted to London
at the age of 152, by the Earl of Arundel, to gratify King
Charles with the sight of the oldest man in his dominions, the
change of living, perhaps of air, operated to hasten his disso-
lution.
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•VOL. IT. — NO. 151.
SOMERSETSHIRE
SOMERSETSHIRE,
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.
THE maritime county of Somerset is washed on
the north-west, by the Bristol channel ; on the
north, it is bounded by Gloucestershire ; ou the
east, by Wiltshire, and a part of Dorsetshire ; on
the south, by Dorsetshire and Devonshire ; and on
the west by Devonshire. It is of an oblong form,
extending about eighty miles, in length, from the
north-east, to the south-west; in breadth, from east
to west, about thirty-six miles ; in circumference,
somewhat more than two hundred miles ; and com-
prehending, according to the latest surveys, 1,015,360
square acres. The coast is very irregular ; iu some
places, projecting into the sea, in rocky promon-
tories, and in others, forming fine bays, with flat
and level shores. From Sterle point, on the north,
it is flat, and composed of vast sand-banks, serving
to repel the frequent inundations of the sea ; which,
in ancient times, used to wash over these shoals, and
even cover the extensive territory, now called Brent
Marsh. — The climate is generally mild and genial ;
near the sea coast, the winter is scarcely felt ; but,
in other parts of the county, particularly in the
northern districts, and about Poulden Hill, the
weather is frequently cold and stormy. On the
summit of the Mendip hills, the air is also very sharp
during the greater part of the year. About Mendip,
•Quantock, and Brandon hills, and some other ele-
vated situations, the farmers are accustomed to sow
a fortnight earlier in the autumn, and as much later
in the spring, than is customary in other parts of the
county. — Of the hills, in Somersetshire, the princi-
pal chains, are the Quantock, extending between
Taunton and the Bristol channel ; the Black Down,
on the borders of Devonshire ; the White Down,
near Chard ; Leigh Down, in the hundred of Port-
* Allium ampeloprasum. Great round-headed Garlick ;
the Holm* in the Severn Sea.
olernceum. AVild Garlick ; in meadows nea
Bristol.
Andromeda polifolia. Marsh Cistus, or Wild Rosemary
near the beginning of Meiidip Hills on tli
w»v from Bath.
ury ; Lansdown, near Bath ; Dundry, near Bristol;
3roadfield Down, between Bristol and Wrington ;
3rendon, near Quantock ; Mendip, between Froine
and the coast ; and Poulden, near Bridgewater. — In
general it may be remarked, that very few districts of
;he kingdom are more fertile than this county. It
produces the most luxuriant herbage ; and furnishes
provisions for other markets, without impoverishing
is own.
FORESTS.] — The ancient forests, in this county,
are Selwood, near Frome ; North Petherton, near
Bridgewater ; Exmoor, between Watchel and the
north-west part of Devonshire ; Mendip, between
Frome and the Bristol channel ; and Neroche, near
Ilminster.
RIVERS.] — The navigable rivers are the Lower
Avon, the Brue, and the Parret. The first rises in
the hilly district of North Wiltshire ; after emerging
from the hills, it divides the counties, and making
numerous meanderings, encloses the city of Bath,
on two sides, from whence it flows to Bristol. The
Brue, which is navigable only two miles, from the
Bristol channel to Highbridge, rises also in Wilt-
shire ; and flows into the channel, near Bridgewater.
The Parret is navigable from Sterle point to Lang-
port, about twenty miles ; it is joined by the Tone,
near Eastling, and rises at South Parret, in Dorset-
shire. These rivers, and even those not navigable,
furnish trout, salmon, and the other kinds of fish
usually found in English rivers.
PLANTS ] — This county is somewhat more fertile
than many others, in rare and curious plants. Of
these the principal will be found enumerated in the
note below.*
MINERALS, FOSSILS, &c.] — Of the mineral and
fossil
Asparagus qfficinulis. Sparagus, or Sperage ; in the marshes
near Bristol, below Look's Folly.
Asplenium Ceterach. Spleenwort, or Miltwast ; on the stone
walls about Bristol, plentifully.
• Ruta Muraria. While Maiden Hair ; on old
walls, and in wet chinks of rocks at Bath, and
on walls at Bristol.
Asplenium
••§:•£•• 'sl%i I § *^p~- \
'' Jflfr If VW'1^ ''/*€-.'&$*
^MW \ vA 1 1 i
:^Mk%IK! ife r^i
SOMERSETSHIRE.
185
fossil productions of Somersetshire, the chief are
lead, copper, iron, Lipis-caluminaris, manganese,
coal, lime-stone, paving-stone, tiling-stone, free-
stone, lullers'-eurth, marie, and ochre. — The Men-
dip hills arc famous for their mines of lead and
lapis-calaminaris ; hut the former are now too ex-
pensive in the working to be so advantageous as
formerly. — Tradition says, the lead-mine at West
Chevvton, yielded annually 100,0007. within the space
of an acre ; and many thousands a year have heen
paid to the see of Wells, for the lord's share (one
tenth) for the lead dug on the forest within the
parish of Wells only. — The roost noted mines for
calamine are about Shipham and Wringtou. The
4sple>iium Scolopcndrium. Hart's Tongue ; between Bath
and Bristol.
Brassica muralis. Wild .Rocket ; about Bristol.
Bromus squarrosus. Corn Brome Grass ; in fields near Glas-
tonbury.
Carduus criophorus. Woolly -headed Thistle; about Bristol,
and in many barren field?. ,
Carex digitata. Digitated Carex ; near Bath.
Caucuiis nodasa. Knotted Parsley ; in ditches.
Chara toinentosa. Brittle Chara; on a hog near Smockhall
wood, near Bath.
Cicuta virosa. Long Leaved Water Hemlock ; on boggy
grounds at Shipton Mallet.
Cistus polifulius Mountain Dwarf Cistus ; on Brern Downs
near the Severn.
sal cifolius. Sallow Leaved Cistus ; near Bream
Downs.
Colchicum autumnale. Meadow SaffroH ; in some meadows
about Bath.
Convallaria Poly goitat urn /3. A variety of sweet-smelling
Solomon's seal ; in the woods on the north
side of Mendip hills.
Cotyledon lutea. Yellow Navelwort. Hudson, in his Flora
Angleca, mentions having seen this plant in a
garden, brought from this county.
umbilicus. Navel wort, Kidnvy-uort, or Wall
Pennywort ; at Bristol, and on walls at Shipton
Mallet.
Cratagus Aria. White Beam Tree ; on the rocks over against
St. Vincent's rock, and in many other places
amongst other shrubs and trees on hilly and
rocky grounds.
Dianthus glaucus. Mountain Pink, on Chedder rocks.
Geranium phaum. Spoiled Cranesbill ; at Clarkon, and on
Mondip hills.
rotundifotium. Round Leaved Cranesbill ; on walls
and on roofs, and in pastures of a sandy soil
about Bath and Bristol, plentifully.
Ilelleborus firtidus. Great Bastard, Black Hellebore, Bears-
toot, or Setterwort ; in the woods between
Gounsberry and Blackwell, plentifully.
Herniaria glabrafi. Sea Rupture-wort ; on the Severn shore,
near Weston super mare.
Hippocrepis cumosa. Tufted Horseshoe Vetch ; on the hills
about Bath, and between Bath and Marlbo-
rough.
*- glabra. Smooth Hawkweed ; at Bristol, and
elsewhere.
Lath'jrus syhcstris. Narrow Leaved Pease Everlasting ;
between Bath and Bristol, plentifully.
Lepidium petraum. Mountain Dittancier ; on walls about
Bristol, and at Uphill.
Lichen miniutus. Cloudy Liverwort, ) On Chedder
saccatvs. Round Liverwort, J rocks.
1 tulpinus. Gold Liverwort ; frequent.
calamine of Mendip, in its crude state, is either of
a yellowish or a reddish colour ; though sometimes
blackish. In texture it is, in some instances, com-
pact, in others cellular, and the form either amorph-
ous or crystallized. A species, called hy the miners
' hone-calamine' (valued very highly) is in polyedrnl
crystals ; the ordinary sort has rather a stalactical
appearance, and is mixed with calcareous spar and
martial ochre. The veins, or lodes, almost always
accompanied by lead, usually run in a direction
nearly from south-east to north-west, or, to use the
terms of the miners themselves, 'lie at nine o'clock.*
Some of the courses are ' at six o'clock,' that is from
east to west. Such as are perpendicular are the
Lithospernum officinale. Cromwell, Gromell, or Graymill ;
about Bristol, and elsewhere.
Lithospernum purpuro caruleum. The Lesser Creeping
Gromwell ; near Taunton.
Ocnantlte crocata . Hemlock Dropwort; at Bath and Bridge-
water.
Ornithogalum pyrenaicum. Spiked Star of Bethlehem ; on
a hill three miles from Bristol in the way to
Bath, near Queen Charlton, and between Bath
and Warminster.
Orobanche ramosa. Branched Broom-rape ; in corn-fields and
dry pastures, about Glastonbury.
Osmunda Lunaria. Moonwort ; about Bath, especially at a
place called Carey, two miles from Bruton, in
the next close to the church-yard.
Phleum nodosum. Knotted Cats-tail Grass ; on a wall about
six miles from Bath, on the Warmiin-ter road.
Phyteuma orbicularis. Hound-headed Rampions; between
Silbury hill and Beacon hill, in the way to
Bath.
Pimpinella dinica Rock Parsley ; on Uphill.
Polypodium dryopteris. Branched Polypody ; on Mendip
hills.
fragile. Brittle Polypody ; about Bristol and on
Mendip hills.
fragile ft. A variety of the last ; on Mendip hills.
vulgarey. C'ambricum, Jagged Polypody ; in a
steep lane, near Mendip hills.
Pteris aquilina /S. A variety of female Fern, or Brakes ; on
Mendip hills.
Rosa spinosissima ft. A variety of the Burnet Rose ; in a
lane descending towards Shipton Mallet.
Salsola fruticosa. Shrub Stone crop, or Glasswort ; in the
Holms in the Severn Sea.
Saxifraga hypnoides. Trifid Sengreen ; on Chedder rocks.
Scirpus holoschoenus. Round-headed Bulrush ; on the sea-
shore.
Senecio taracenicus. Broad Leaved Ragwort ; at Shipton
Mallet, by the side of a small river, between
Wells and Glastonbury, and elsewhere.
Serapias latifolia y palustris. A variety of broad-leaved
bastard Hellebore; in mar. lies near Ship/km
Mallet.
Thalictrum minus. Lesser Meadow Rue ; on Chedder cliff.
Trichomanse Tunbrigense. Tnnbfidae Trichomanes ; in a
shady lane at Shipton Mallet.
Trifolium maritimum. Teasel-headed Trefoil ; near Bristol,
plentifully.
Utricularia minor. Lesser hooded Milfoil, near Glastonbury,
plentifully.
Vaccinium Oxycaccus. Cranberries, MosSberries, or Moor-
berries ; near Glastonbury.
Picia lutea. Yellow Vetch ; on Glastoiibtiry Tor-hill.
sylvatica. Tnfted Wood Vetch ; in Smockhall wood,
near Bath.
best.
15*4
SOMERSETSHIRE.
best. — Tlie shafts are from six to twelve fathoms
deep, though the calumine is probably to be i'ouiid
at all depths. There is no difference in the appear-
ance of vegetation, nor do the springs in the neigh-
bourhood seem to be affected either in regard to
taste or colour ; so that the digging of trenches
must be the only mode of ascertaining with certainty
where the calamine lies. — The principal lead mines
lie about Priddy ami East Harptree. There are
several not far from Shipham, north-west of which
is Under Mendip. At the depth of about eighty
fathoms, water here flows so fast upon the miners
that they can never work deeper. The ore they
obtain is worth about six pounds per ton. — The
most productive lodes are enclosed between very-
hard lime-stone rocks that exhibit a greyish fracture,
but have a deep red surface, occasioned by the
oxyde of iron. The lodes are generally from half
an inch to two inches in thickness, accompanied by
calamine mixed with a calcareous stone, called
crootes. The ore is often suddenly lost, but may
be recovered by working a few fathoms farther in
the same direction. A clear heavy ore is called
goods. Thirty-six hundred of this may yield a ton
of lead. It is of the galena kind, but of a more
refractory nature than that of Derbyshire, for which
reason it is used chiefly for making balls. A calci-
form species, of a radiated or fibrous texture, is
sometimes found. — About East Harptree, manganese
is dug in some quantity in the state of black oxyde.
—The northern district of this county abounds in
coal, ami it is with respect to this article again
divided into northern and southern divisions ; the
ibrmer including the parishes of High Lyttleton,
Timsbury, Paulton, (with Glutton and Sutton ad-
joining to the west, and Camerton and Dunkerton
to the east of the district) Radstock, and the northern
part of the Midsummer Norton ; the latter, the south-
ern part of Midsummer Norton, Stratton-ou-the-
Foss,(Halcombeand Ashwick adjoining the district),
Kilmersdot), Babington, and Wells. The latter, are
what were heretofore known by the. name of the
Mendip Collieries. — In the northern collieries, the
strata of coal form an inclination of the plane of
nine inches in the yard. These are in number about
nineteen : in thickness variable, from ten inches to
upwards of three feet. If less than fifteen inches,
they are seldom worked. Coal is worked generally
from 70 to 80 fathoms in depth : in some places
deeper. — The c0al is of prime quality, pure and
durable in burning ; firm, large, and of a strong
grain. — The owners of the freehold whence the coal
is raised, generally receive an eighth of the gross
receipt of sale. — The southern division is on a more
limited scale of working. The strata of coal form
an inclination of the plane from eighteen to thirty
inches in the yard ; in some the plane is lost, and
they descend in a perpendicular direction. The coal
is of various quality. The small coal is excellent
for the forge, and is convertible into excellent coke
for malt-kilns. — At High Littleton, is a large coal-
; work, in which great quantities of fine coals- are
' raised. — At Cutton, and the adjacent country, there
i is excellent coal, the veins of which are generally
covered with a stony stratum, called wark. It splits
like slate, and abounds with impressions of fern and
other plants. Over this is another stratum called
the Thorny Cliff, intermixed with arborescent mar-
casites. The coal is often mixed with sulphur : some
years since, one stratum wrought here was so strongly
impregnated with it, that in all its joints it seemed
to be covered with leaf-gold. In another work, near
three hundred weight of good lead ore was found
| growing to a vein of coal. — In Caraertou mines,
j red clay and sand -stone continue to the depth of
twenty fathoms, or more ; afterwards a hard bluish
stone is found ; and lastly carbonaceous slate con-
tiguous to the coal ; the last shews impressions of
vegetables. There are two very productive veins,
about fifty-four feet apart ; these make a small angle
towards the south, and are rather more than two feet
in thickness. Water appears at the depth of a few
fathoms. — About Midsummer-Norton, Stratton -on-
the-Fbss, and Kilweston, the pits are supposed to
yield weekly from eight hundred to one thousand,
tons, which requires the labour of, at least, five hun-
dred men. — The direction oft he veins of coal is very
variable ; in general it is nearly from east to west.
The termination of the coal country southward seems
to be about Mendip. On the side of Wiltshire we
lose the mines as soon as we come to the chalk.
Towards the borders of Gloucestershire, the veins
mostly pitch to the north ; but towards Mendip, they
incline the contrary way. — That part of the parish*
of Abbot's Leigh, which lies towards the north, is
almost one continued ridge of lime-stone rock,
covered with wood. These rocks, like St. Vincent's
near Bristol, contain hexagonal and pramidal quartz
crystals, and spar of various tinges ; some with an
almost clear black water, others with a cast of red,
others diaphanous from iron veins, other amethystine
concreted on iron ore, and others of a bright yellow
proceeding from lead. These spars and crystals are
found on the down, either loose or clustered, i»
nodules of reddish stone. Lead ore has frequently
been found on these downs, and some shafts have
been sunk at different times for the purpose of ex-
tracting ; but the' quantity obtained has generally
proved too small to defray the expe"nce of working
them. — HamdenHill, near Montacute, has been re-
markable for many ages for its free-stone quarries,
the produce of which. possesses the excellent quality
of hardening by time. Most of the churches, for
many miles round, are built with this stone. — -The
rocks at Old Cleeve on the Bristol channel, two
miles south-west of Watchet, abotmd with fine ala-
baster.— The bath-stone is a sort of oolithus, occa-
sionally mixed with spar and shells. In the fissures
of some of the quarries, a mineral substance of great
scarcity has been observed. This is native lime,
which Dr. Falconer has described (in hi* Essay on
the Bath waters) as of a softish texture, and capable
of
SOMERSETSHIRE.
of dissolving sulphur. Bath is wholly surrounded
.hy lulls of lime-stone, which differs a little with re-
gard to texture, and the nature of strata. About
Ijansdown the strata increase in thickness according
to their depth, the thinnest stratum lying uppermost.
The grit is here so intimately blended with marine
bodies and sparry matter, that it is scarcely discerni-
ble. Towards Keynsham, we find in the stone
immense cornua ainnwnh, which are carefully picked
out and polished for sale, hy the quarrymen, who
give them the appellation of snake stones. The
diameter of many of these extraordinary fossils is
uearly two feet. — There is a fine kind of slab-stone
found at Trenton-Mandeville, in an open arable
field, in the highest ground, from two to four feet
below the surface (which is a yellowish clay, inclin-
ing to brick earth) to a very great depth, in strata,
nearly horizontal, from north-east to south-west, the
layers being from two and a half to six inches in
thickness, and of various kinds, increasing in den-
«ity as they descend. At about eight or ten feet
below the surface, the olratum of earth is a blue
strong loam, or marl ; hut does not much eifervesce
in vinegar. — The stone is a Tery fine hard kind of
blue lyas, or lime-stone, in whjch (the uppermost
layers especially) are a few small cornua aimnonis,
mnd many species of bivalve shells, particularly a
kind of Venus, depressed and striated in so peculiar
a manner, that h appears to be a non-duscript. Here
•re also many of the gryphites, and the small long
flat oyster, with some pectens. Some of the veins
of this stone contain pyrites, but very little spar ; in
others a metallic substance of a rusty iron colour is
found, which on attrition has a strong sulphureous
smell ; great quantities of this stone are raised, and
sent to considerable distances for paving rooms and
walks, and for grave-stones. The same kind of
stone is found in the neighbouring parishes of But-
leigh and King's Weston. — At Ilininster, are many
quarries of a hard dark yellowish stone, abounding
with fossils of cornua aunnonis, nautili pecten, ano-
raia, carduum, and Venus kinds, with a great num-
ber of Belemnites. In a quarry of blue lime-stone,
near the Bristol road, in the parish of Weston, in
the hundred of Bath Forum, are found great quan-
tities of cornua ammonis, and nautili, with a variety
of bivalve shells, many of which are very perfect :
between the strata of the rock are beautiful veins of
mundic and stalactites : some curious specimens of
the asteria columnaris, the dog's tooth spar, sharks'
teeth, and a great number of gryphites are also
found here. — At Thorn St. Margaret, the stones are
mostly siliceous, of various coloured agate, with
quartz pebbles beautifully veined with red and green.
. -"-At Chilcompton, the corn grate, and white lyas
stone, lie over the marl ; and a species of calcareous
*tone, called the red rock, is found in the vale, and
contains calcareous spar, and small quantities of
iron ore. The spar is mostly found in nodules, or in
the cavities and chinks of the red rock ; but very
little of it is transparent. A few cornua ammouis
VOL. IY. — NO. J54.
are sometimes found here, and some branches of
coral embedded in the stone, but scarcely any oilier
fossils. — Under a bed of fire-stone twenty yards
thick, is coal, for raising which works were begun
in 1779. There is also another coal-work in the
southern part of the parish, known hy the name of
Stock-hill. — In 1804, a mining company was formed,
at Bath, termed the Batheaston Mining Company,
for the establishing and advancing of a mine for
coals or other minerals, in the parishes of Batheaston
and Swainswick, near Bath, The undertaking has •
proved very successful.
MINERAL AND MEDICINALSPRINGS.] — This county
is remarkable for having two celebrated mineral
waters ; those of Bath and Bristol, of which the latter
has been noticed, in our account of Clifton, in (i!ou--
cestershire. At Alford, a village twenty-four miles S.
from Bath, -is a mineral water, which l*as a nauseous
bitter taste, curdling with soap, and yielding a white
grumous sediment, with the solution of pot-ashes.
It turns green with a syrup of violets, and galls will
produce a greenish cloud on the surface, which de-
scends deeper in two or three days. — Lincomb
water, near Bath, is by some called Lincomb spa.
When first taken up, it has a light, brisk, sulphure-
ous smell, which it loses in six or eight minutes,,
but it will retain its tnste of iron as many hours. It
is impregnated with iron, sulphur, bitumen, and a,
small portion of alkaline salt. — At Queen's Camel,
a village a few miles north from Sherborne, is a
spring, called the Black Well, which proceeds from
a hard rocky bank. It smells like the washings of
a foul gun, and appears to contain a considerable
quantity of sulphur, some natron, and a calcareous
earth. — In the western part of the parish of Weston,
in the hundred of Bath Forum, is a spring of a
petrifying quality, which speedily forms au incrusta-
tion upon whatever is thrown into it.
FISHERIES.] — The salmon and herring fisheries
of Porlock, Minehead, and Watchet, have long
been carried on to a considerable extent, furnishing
employment and a cheap and wholesome food, to a
great number of the lower classes of people, who,
(luring the summer months, are engaged in the lime-
stone and clum trade, the gathering of kelp, &c.
CANALS.] — The Somersetshire coal canal has two
branches, one commencing at Bulton, the other at
Radstock, and communicating with the Keunet and
Avon canal. — The Dorset and Somerset canal, com-
mences near Nettlebridge, and extends through
Frome to the county of Dorset. — A canal from the
Mendip collieries passes through Frome, and divid-
ing into two branches, one joins the Rennet and
Avon canal near Bradford, and the other extends
itself through Wincanton to the borders of Dorset-
shire.— There is also a canal at llchester.
SOIL, AGRICULTURE, &c.] — The various soils of
the respective chains of hills, in this county, are.
thus described, by Billiugsley, in his general view
of its agriculture : — " Quantock, &c. a thin variable
soil, covering a loose shelly rock, interspersed with
-3 A ocra-
-188
SOMERSETSHIRE.
occasional lime-stone ; Poiilden-hill, a strong sur-
face, covering a bed of clay, or marl ; Mendip-hills,
Broadfield, and Leigh-Down, a gravelly loam, on
a lime-stone rock ; Lansdown, a free-stone grit ;
White-Down, variable; Black-Down, a thin sur-
face of black earth on a bed of sand, or gravel."
There are said to be about 330,000 acres of arable
land, in this county, 534,500 of pasture, and 126,860
of heaths, wastes, woods, roads, &c. — The prin-
cipal moors are the following :•— King's Sedgmoor,
near Bridgewater ; East-Sedgmoor, between Wells
and Glastonbury ; West-Sedgmoor, between Taun-
ton and Langport ; Northmoor and Stanmoor, near
the Isle of Athelney ; Common-moor, near Lang-
port ; Westmoor, Curry, and Haymoor, near North
Curry ; Kingsmoor, between Ilchester and Somer-
ton ; Ilemoor, on the river Ivel ; Brentmarsh, on
the rivers Brew and Ax ; Westonmoor, near Uphill ;
Banwell and Smooth Moors, near Churchill ; Kenn-
inoor, near Yatton ; Nailseamoor, north of Kenn ;
and Claptonmoor, between Clapton and Wirton. —
Billiiigsley divides the county into three districts: the
firstcomprehending the tract of land included between
the ports of Uphill and Kingroad on the west, and
the towns of Bath and Frome on the east. This
he calls the north-east district. The next he calls
the middle division, and is that portion of land
which is bounded by the Mendip-hills on the north,
Bridgewater Bay on the west, and the town of Chard
on the south. The south-west division occupies the
remainder of the county. — The moor-lands are sub-
ject to frequent inundations ; and sometimes, in rainy
seasons, are covered with water, for four or five
months. — In the parishes of Congresbury, Yatton,
Banwell, Winscombe, Churchill, and Puxton, there
are not less than three thousand acres subject to
inundation. These lands discharge the greatest
part of their waters into the Yeo, and are under
the inspection of the Commissioners of the Water
Sewers. — To the northward of this district, lie the
parishes of Kenn, Kingston, Seymour, Cleveden,
Nailsea, Chelvey, and Claverham, possessing near
four thousand acres, alike subject to inundation. —
At the south-west of this division are the parishes
of Churchill, Hutton, Banwell, Locking, Weston-
super-Mare, and Uphill. These lands are for the
most occupied by dairy or grazing farmers, and are
subject to frequent overflowings of the river, which
runs through a dam or sluice at Uphill. — Proceed-
ing northward you ascend Leighdown, a tract of
elevated land, extending from Clevedon to the Hot-
Wells, near Bristol. It is principally fed with sheep.
A large portion of this down will not admit of cul-
tivation, the lime-stone rock being within two or
three inches of the surface.— The middle division of
the county is the largest, being the part comprehend-
ed between the Mendip-hills on the north-east ;
Quantock-hill and the forest of Neroche on the
south-west ; and the Bristol channel on the north-
west. It includes the city and borough of Wells,
the boroughs of Bridgewater, Ilchester, and Mil-
born -Port, and the market towns of Axbridge,
Shepton - Mallet, Glastonbury, Brewton, Castle-
Carey, Wincanton, Somerton, Langport, Yeovil,
Sonth-Petherton, Ilminster, Crewkerne, and Chard,
together with their adjacent parishes and villages,
amounting in the whole to between four and iive
hundred thousand acres. — The farms are here large,
and folding is unremittingly pursued. Wheat is
seldom pursued wittiout two foldings ; and fallow-
ing every four or five years is the general practice.
The corn produced is of a good quality. — The next
division, via. the country about Shepton, Bruton,
Castle-Carey, Ilchester, Somerton, Langport, Pe-
therton, and Ilminster, is exceedingly fertile, both
in corn and pasture ; abounds in good orchards, and
fine luxuriant meadows, and is altogether well cul-
tivated. In some parts, flax ami hemp arc produced
in great abundance ; which, with wool, furnish the
raw materials for extensive manufactures. — The
marsh or fen-lands, are divided into two districts,
namely Brentmarsh, and the Bridgewator, or South-
marsh. Brentmarsh is that portion of land compre-
hended between Mendip-hills and Polden-hill on the
north and south, Bridgewater-Bay on the west, and
extending to Wells and Glastonbury on the east. —
This marsh may also be divided into two parts sepa-
rated by a tract of elevated land, on which siand the
parishes of Allerton, Mark, Blackford, Wedmore,
&c. Through the northern level runs the river Axej
emptying itself into Bridgewater-Bay near Burn-
ham. — In this part of the county, many efforts have
recently been made to improve the soil, by draining
and enclosing. Billingsley suggests, that were a
barrier, with proper sluices, erected near the Bristol
channel, some of the most considerable windings
of the river Axe shortened, and the shallow parts
deepened, not only the moors, but the old enclosures,
would be benefited thereby, to the amount of at least
five thousand pounds per annum. — The Brew drains
a more considerable part of Brent-marsh than the
Axe, and haw a barrier to the tide (which rises there
twenty feet in height) with sluices therein, at Hegh-
bridge ; but its foundation, and the apron and cills
of the sluices, are at such a height above low-water
mark, that the drain is very imperfect. — On the con-
fines of the Brew are two heuth or turf bogs : one
on the north-side, containing about three thousand,
and the other, on the south, containing about six
thousand acres*. These bogs are a composition of
porous substances, floating on water, and imbibing
it like a spunge. The principal use to which they
are appropriated is that of fuel. — The south marsh
is bounded on the north-east by Poulden-hilU, on
the south-west by the Parrett, on the north-west by
Bridgewater-Bay, and on the south-east by Ham-
hill, &c. That part thereof which lies nearest the
sea is 'higher than the interior part, owing to the
great deposit of sea-mud left at the high spring
tides for ages past ; and it is also better drained, in
consequence of being near the outlet, where the
greatest fall of drainage exists. — The Parret is the
principal
SOMERSETSHIRE.
187
principal drain of this marsh. It lias no barrier,
and the tide flows up as far as Langport, filling its
banks, and frequently penning the land-floods over
the moors and meadows adjoining ; so that nearly
thirty thousand acres of fine land are frequently
overflown for a considerable time together, render-
ing the herbage unwholesome for the cattle, and the
air unhealthy to the inhabitants. An act of parlia-
ment was, some years since, obtained for draining
a considerable part of this fenny plain, called King's
Sedgmoor, which, with the adjoining enclosed mea-
dows, amounts to above twenty thousand acres.
This desirable end is nearly accomplished, by having
the outlet, or sluice, many miles lower in the Parrett
than formerly. — There are other tracts of land on
the adjacent rivers Tone and Yeo, on which little
improvement has yet been attempted ; namely, Nor-
inoor, ncarNorth-Petherton ; Sanmoor, Currymoor,
West-Sedgmoor, &c. near North-Curry ; West-
Moor, near Kingsbury ; Wet-moor, near Muchel-
ney ; amounting in the whole to about ten thousand
acres, independent of many thousand acres of low
flooded enclosed lands, which might be greatly im-
proved by judicious draining. — Adjoining this cxtcn -
give plain on the south, lies a tract of elevated land,
composed principally of sea-sand and shells, well
adapted to the purposes of tillage, and in its nature
so fertile, that potatoes, carrots, turnips, hops, mad-
der, liquorice, and indeed almost every root or plant
useful in husbandry, might be grown on it in high
perfection. — The arable land is for the most part in
common fields. The wheat produced is of prime
quality ; and as to barley, it is supposed that Ched-
zoy,Weston-Zoyland, Middle-zoy, and Othery, pro-
duce the best in the county. — The declivities of the
hills, north and east of Sedgmoor, are as barren as
those before stated are productive. The finer par-
ticles of the soil have for ages been washed into
the moors by heavy rains ; and the remaining mould
is shallow and sterile. — A great part of these high
lands are in tillage. — The soil is naturally good-,
and about the town of Somerton are a great many
gardens, which supply the adjacent markets, even
so far as Wells and Shepton-Mallet, with early
peas, beans, potatoes, &c. and in tha month of
August with cucumbers by cart-loads. — On the
summit of Polden-hill, the corn land is for the most
part in common fields, and under the following course
of husbandry : wheat, beans, fallow. — In Caslle-
Cary, potatoes are grown on a very large scale. —
The south-west division of the county has nearly an
equal portion of rough mountainous hills, and rich
fertile slopes and plains. — This district may be sub-
divided into two lesser districts, including, first the
pirishcs of Taunton, Welton, Trull, Pilminster,
Bishop's Hull, Bradford, Buckland, Minehead,
Wellington, Samford, Hill-Farrence, Oake, Nor-
ton Cheddon, Staplegrove, Thurloxton, North -
. Peverton, Monkton, Kingston, Cothelston, Bishop's
Lediard, Heathfield, Halse, Ash-priors, Fitzhead,
Milverton, Langford-Budville, Thome, Bathialton,
and Runninglon. — These parishes comprehend what
is generally called the Vale of Taunton-Dean. —
The soil is a. rich loam, interspersed in some places
\vith clay, as part of Brafield, Buckland, north-side
of Wellington, part of Sampford, Hill-Farrence,
Minehead, Oake, and licathfield ; and in other parts
with sand, or a lighter mould, as Kingston, Bishop's
Lediard, Halse, Fitzhead, Milverton, Langford,
Thome, and Runnington. — The second division of
this district includes the parishes of Combflory,
Bagborough, Fowey, Stoke-Courcy, Crowcombe,
Stogumber, Williton, Watchet, Dunster, Minehead,
Porlock, Timberscome, Cutcomb, Withypool, Wins-
ford, Dulverton, Wiviliscomb, &c.&c. together with
the forest of Exmoor. — The soil of some part of this
district is but little inferior to that of the former ;
but the hills and forest are for the most part left. in.
a state of nature. — The corn land is in general good ;
and the water meadows in the parishes of Crowcomb,
Stogumber, Monksilver, Nettlecomb, Dinniford,
Dunster, Dulverton, &c. are excellent. — In the
northern district are many large proprietors, from
2000/. to tiOOO/. per annum. Part is leased out in.
lives ; part is demesne, and let out for short terms ;
and no small quantity is the lee of the occupiers. —
The farms are not large, seldom exceeding -2001. a
year, and accompanied with a small proportion of
arable. Some of the dairy farms are so small as
not to exceed 60/. or70/. per year. — Rent is univer-
sally paid in money. — Many estates in this district
are held by leases for three lives, with quit rents and
heriots ; but the greatest part is held for terms of
years ; viz. fourteen, seven, and three, years ; and
some 1'rom year to year. — The greatest part of that
rich tract of land called Brent-Marsh, in the middle
district, was, a few centuries ago, either the property
of the crown or of the abbey of Glaatonbury. Many
of these manors have been since dismembered, and
nearly half this country is occupied by the owners. —
In the middle part of this district, also, there are
many large proprietors. Great confidence exists
about Wincanton, Horsingtoti, &c. between the
landlords and tenants. Estates are there principally
held on mere verbal engagements, and scarcely an
instance can be produced of a breach of faith. —
Between \eoviland Taunton, including the parishes
of Murtock, Puckington, Berrbgton, Kinu.sbury-
Episcopi, Lambrook, South Petherton, Ilminster,
Hinton St. George, and the adjacent places, lies a
tract of strong loamy land, from sixteen to thirty
inches deep, on a substance of clay. The proprietors
are large and the estates are mostly held by lives,
under the lords of the fee ; there aro, however, many
free-holders who possess from one hundred to seven
hundred pounds per annum. — The farms are from,
forty to six hundred pounds per annum, and ore
composed partly of rich grazing1 and dairy land ;
partly orchard, sheep-walks, and arable. — The rich
pasture- land is partly grazed with heifers, and partly
devoted to the dairy. Few farmers milk their own
cows, but let them out to a class of people, scarcely
known
168
SOMERSETSHIRE.
known in oilier counties, called dairy-men. A
certain portion of land is devoted to their summer
beeping, and a sufficient quantity of hay is provided
by the farmer for their winter sustenance. — - The
major parts of the five hundreds of Taunton-Dean,
in the south-west district, consists of customary
lands of inheritance, held under the Bishop of Win-
chester, paying an annual rent. These customary
lands pass by surrender, paying to the lords fines
and heriots on alienations. The descent is called
that of Borough English, with some variations.
The wife is heir to her husband ; and it is no uncom-
mon thing for a widow, on the death of her husband,
having children by him, to marry again, and carry
her estate into her second family, to the disinheritance
of her first.' — The farms of the south-west division
are rather less than the last ; but the husbandry is
much the same, only there is more land in tillage.
The mountainous lands are uncultivated, and are
depastured witli sheep and young bullocks. — In the
vicinity of these uncultivated hills, viz. at Bicknoller,
Elworthy, Brompton-Rolph, and Old Cleeve, oats
are the principal corn-crop ; barley and wheat are
grown, but upon a small scale. — The rotation of the
crops varies from that of Taunton-Dean. Here
•wheat is generally sown on the ley, and none but
very stiff land is fallowed. — Turnips are much cul-
tivated ; but they are very lavish in the consumption,
giving too large a space of ground to the sheep at a
time, making thereby great waste. — The dry uplands
are devoted to tillage, and the rich lowlands to graz-
ing or dairy. On the former, wheat, beans, peas, and
vetches, are the principal crops ; and those lands
which are capable of improvement by watering, are
so managed as to produce excellent spring feed for
ewes and lambs, with abundant crops both of hay
and after-grass. There are very few estates entirely
in pasture. — Much of the arable land will spontane-
ously produce a variety of excellent sorts of grass,
and shortly become good pasture. The artificial
grasses here sown are broad and white clover, tre-
foil, and ray-grass, called here ever-grass. By the
custom of the manor of Taunton-Dean, the tenant
is not, without a licence from the lord, to let his
customary lands for more than a year and a day ;
but', to encourage good husbandry, it has been usual
. to grant rack-rent leases for seven, fourteen, or
twenty-one years. — In the parishes of Wrington,
Blagdon, Ubly, Compton, Martin, and Harpley,
teasals are much cultivated. The head of this plant,
•which is composed of well-turned vegetable hooks,
is used in dressing of cloth ; and the manufacturers
of this county and Wilts, are for the most part sup-
plied from these parishes : large quantities are also
sent into Yorkshire. — Woad is another valuable
article of cultivation in this county ; it is principally
raised in the neighbourhood of Keynsham. It re-
quires a good strong soil ; it delights most in a deep
fat loam, of a dark colour, which must have so much
sand as to admit of easy pulverisation. — Of cows,
preference is given to that sort which gives the
most milk, and of the best quality : hence it follow*,
that in point of carcass they are very deficient. They
are mostly of the short-horned breed : and though
the fine long-horned cows of the Nortli Wiltshire
have been tried, the general run of dairy-men are
strongly attached to their own breed. In the middle
district, great numbers of oxen are grazed, chiefly
of the Somerset and Devon breed. In the south-west
district, the neat cattle is principally of the North
Devon breed. Many graziers prefer the oxen bred
in this district to those of Barnstaple, South Molton,
Torrington, &c. they are large, well-made, beautiful
animals, almost all red. They are yoked at three
years old, and worked till they are five or six, when
they are sold to the graziers.
A very large and good sort of sheep is bred, in
the vicinity of Bath, the wethers of which are com-
monly folded, till they are between two or three
years old, and then grazed. — There is also in the
northern district the Mendip breed, a sort that will
thrive on the poorest soil, and fallow on such land
as will scarcely keep other sorts alive. Their wool
is fine. The mutton is also excellent for the table.
— In the south-east part of the middle district, the
sheep are an improved sort of the Dorset, and many
considerable ewe-flocks are kept to the amount of four
to six hundred each. In the south-west district there
are two sorts of sheep, the one a native breed, without
horns, well-made, and covered with a thick fleece of
wool, weighing in general seven or eight pounds ;
the other a small -horned sheep, called Exmoor sheep;
bought when hoggits, and fattened on turnips. The
first is a valuable sort, not unlike the Leicester breed ;
and their fleeces may be considered as a most profit-
able article to the breeder. The second sort is kept
on the forest of Exmoor or the adjoining hills, for
two or three years, merely for the profit of their
fleeces.
Somersetshire is chiefly supplied with horses by
the north-country dealers. There is a hardy sort
of small horses, bred upon Exmoor forest, which
are very sure-footed and serviceable in hilly parts.
The principal manures* are dung, lime, and marie.
In the northern district lime is chiefly used, and the
kilns for burning it are numerous, and well con-
structed.
The whole of the northern district is full of
orchards. The favourite apple, both as a table and
cyder fruit, is the Court of Wick Pippin, taking its
name from the spot where it was first produced.
It originated from the pip or seed of the. Golden-
pippin, and may be considered as a beautiful variety
of that fruit. There are many fine orchards in the
middle district, the land being peculiarly adapted
to the growth and perfection of fruit-trees. In th«
south-west district, cyder is made in perfection.
In the northern district, there are many commons
unenclosed ; the principal of which are Broadfield
Down, near Wrington, and Lansdown, near Bath.
The former contains near 3,000 acres, the latter
about 1,000. Broadfield Down is for the most
part
SOMERSETSHIRE.
ISO
part a good soil, deep in earth, and easily ploughed.
Upon Lansdown, the soil is thin, but the surface
perfectly smooth, and remarkable for its excellence
in feeding sheep. In the middle district, the largest
unenclosed (upland) common, is the forest of Ne-
roche, containing about eight or nine hundred acres.
The right of stocking on this common belongs to
the parishes of llminster, White Luckington, Donyat,
Broadway, and others ; nud in regard to quantity
is unlimited. — The next size is White Down, near
Chard. In the south-west division of this county
the forest of Exmoor claims our first attention as
waste land. This forest extends from north to south
about eight miles, and from east to west ten or
twelve, containing about 19,000 acres. — Nearly in
the centre of this large tract of land is an estate,
called Simon's Bath, inclosed, and consisting of
about 200 acres, with a dwelling-house, licensed
and frequented as an inn, and all offices belonging
to it convenient for the management of the fttrm and
transacting the concerns of the forest. Here the
forester has an annual sale for the small horses,
before noticed, that are bred on the surrounding
hills ; and here also, during the month of May, he
meets the farmers from all the country round, wlio
enter in his books the number of which are depastured
with him, at the rate of fivepence per head. The
small horses from 400 to 500 are not taken into
better keeping, nor to more sheltered grounds, during
the severest winter ; but the sheep are almost all
driven oft' for the winter in the months of November,
December, and January. On the summit of the
hills, especially on the west and north, are swamps
of many acres in extent. They are cut up as turf.
Excepting a few willows and thorns by the sides of
the rivulets, not a tree or a bush out of Simon's Bath
estate is to be seen on the whole forest. But plan-
tations of oak, fir, beech, and elm, would thrive in
all the parts capable of tillage. It is computed that
there are ^2,000 sheep summered upon the forest,
besides horses.
ETYMOLOGY.] — Camden considers the name of this
county, to have been derived from Somerton, anci-
ently its most considerable town ; and Assinius,
always designates it as the county of Somerton.
According to other etymologists, it received its name
from the summer-like mildness of its climate, and
the great fertility of its soil ; characteristics which
apply peculiarly to Somerton, and hence the appel-
lation might be transferred to the whole of the sur-
rounding country. In this sense, it is still called
Gladorhof, by the Welch.
GENERAL HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, &c.] — The
county of Somerset, as well as those of Hants, and
Wilts, is said to have been in early times inhabited
by the Belgas, a people of whom we have given some
particulars in our account of Hampshire.* Of
Celtic origin, they appear to have migrated hither
out of Gaul, about three centuries before the Chris-
« ride Vol. il. page 486.
VOL. iv.— so. 154.
tian era ; and, having, expelled the aboriginal Bri-
tons, tl»ey established colonies, and cultivated the
lands. Their dominion was greatly extended about
two hundred and fifty years after their first settle-
ment, when Divitiacus, king of the Suessones,
brought over to them a considerable army of their
countrymen from the continent. The incessant hos-
tilities, between them and the natives, were then
appeased ; a treaty was concluded ; and a line was
drawn to determine their respective boundaries.
This line was perpetuated by a large and deep fosse,
called Wansdike ; parts of which may still be traced.
It commences at Audover, iu Hampshire ; passes
thence in nearly a direct course to Groat Bedvvin,
in Wiltshire ; and thence crossing the groat forest at
Savarnaek and Mnrlborough Downs, it proceeds to
Culston, Edington, and Spye Park. It crosses the
Avon near Bennacre, and again at Bath Hampton ;
thence continuing its course over Claverton Down
to Prior Park, Inglishcombe, Stanton Prior, Pub-
low, Norton, and Long Ashton, it terminates in the
Severn sea at Portishead, a distance of eighty milt's
from its commencement. On Marlborongh Downs
this singular dike appears nearly in its pristine state,
being exceedingly deep, and flanked by a loj'ty
mound or rampart. On its tract near Grent Bedwin,
celts and instruments of war have been discovered.
Thus the Belgae occupied a great part of this county;
and, of their chief cities, Ilchester, Bath and Win-
chester, the two first are within its limits. On tlie
arrival of the Romans in Britain, the oppressors, in
their turn, became the oppressed. Many remains
within this district bear testimony to the charac-
teristic activity of the Romans, in establishing sta-
tions, marking out camps, and founding colonies.
Besides their cities of Aqua; Solis, or Bath, and
Iscalis, or Ilchester, there are many places which
bear evident marks of Roman origin. Their prin-
cipal road was the fosse, which extended from Bath
in a south-westerly direction to Perry Street, on
the confines of Devonshire. In a direction nearly
parallel to it there ran another road from the i'orest
of Exmoor, through Taunton, Bridgewater, and
Axbridge, to Portishead, whence there was a tra-
jecttis across the Bristol channel to the city of Isca
Silurum, now Caerleon. There are enumerated
upwards of twenty-three Roman encampments in
this county. During the dominion of the Romans
it formed part of their province of Britannia Prima.
On the decline of their power, and on their evacua-
tion of the country, in the fifth century, it became
subject to the Saxons, who incorporated it with their
kingdom of Wessex. It is one of the districts which
earliest embraced the Christian faith. Ina, who
began his reign in 688, built a college at Wells,
which was dedicated to God and the apostle St.
Andrew. His successor, King Kenulph, converted
it into an episcopal see, and built the famous abbey
of Glastonbury, which he dedicated to Christ and
lit
190
SOMERSETSHIRE.
his apostles St. Peter and St. Paul. In the reign
of Alfred, the Danes carried their ravages into this
district, which had long remained safe against their
encroachments. When their pursuit and search of
Alfred became less strict, it was here that he col-
lected some of his faithful adherents, and retired
to a spot of land a few acres in extent, surrounded
by water and impassable marshes, at the conflux of
the rivers Parret and Tone. Here he built a habi-
tation, and constructed a long bridge, to connect his
retreat with the neighbouring terra firma. The
western end of the bridge was fortified by what
•might be called a tete-de-pont which rendered hostile
approaches impracticable. This place he called
j-Ethelingay, or the Isle of Nobles, now written
Athelney. Out of this strong hold he made frequent
and sudden incursions on the Danes, and maintain-
ed himself and his followers by the spoil he pro-
cured. After various successes, he defeated the
combined armies of the Danes at Edington, and
took their pagan king, Guthrum, prisoner, whom
he brought to his court at Aller, and there obliged
him to receive the rite of baptism. In gratitude for
his success, he founded a monastery at Athelney, to
the honour of St. Saviour and St. Peter the Apostle.
In the Saxon times this county, as well as others,
was subject to certain officiary earls, who had au-
thority to try and decide causes, and to punish
malefactors, within their jurisdiction. The first Earl
of Somerset was a warlike chief, named Hun, who
lived in the reign of King Egbert, whom he at-
tended in the war which he waged against Beornulf,
King of Mercia, and was slain in the battle of
Ellendune, A. D. 823. At a subsequent period,
Svveyn, eldest son of Godwin, Earl of Kent, some
time held it. — At the Norman conquest, this county
was bestowed on several chiefs, who assisted in the
enterprise of William. Sir William Mohun ob-
tained the greatest share ; for, besides the castle of
Dutister, he held sixty-one lordships, and had in
his retinue forty-seven stout and approved knights.
He also received the. title of Earl of Somerset,
which devolved on his descendant, Sir Reginald de
Mohun. In 1396, John Beaufort, son of John
Plantagenet, of Gaunt, was advanced to the earl-
dom by Richard the Second. His son succeeded
him, but died without issue. In 1442, John Beau-
fort was created Duke of Somerset. In 1472, the
title expired in E?dmund Beaufort, who was beheaded
at the battle of Tewkesbury. The title was next
bestowed on Edmund Tudor, third son of Henry
the Seventh ; and afterwards on a bastard son of
Henry the Eighth. In 1547, Edward .Seymour,
•protector to Edward the Sixth, was created Duke
•of Somerset. He was beheaded in 1552. James
the First bestowed the title of Earl of Somerset on
his favourite, Robert Carr, Viscount Rochester.
In 1(500, the title and dignity of Duke of Somerset
were revived by parliament, and restored to William
Seymour, Marquis of Hertford, great grandson to
•the Protector Seymour ; and the ilukcJ.om has ever
since continued in his family. In the reign of
Charles the First, this county had its full share of
calamity. The Marquis of Hertford levied troops
here for the royal cause, but the parliament had many
adherents among the people. Several skirmishes
were fought, but no general engagement took place,
except a pitched battle at Lansdown, near Bath,
between the army of the parliament, under Sir
William Waller, and the king's forces, under the
marquis, in which Sir Bevil Grenville, a brave, ex-
perienced, anil active commander, lost his life. In
this action, of two thousand horse the Marquis of
Hertford lost one thousand five hundred, occasioned
by a regiment of cuirassiers, commanded by Sir
Arthur Haslerig, which were so completely armed,
that they were called the regiment of lobsters. On
the other hand, the marquis drove Sir William
Waller from his post, and compelled him to retire
into Bath. This county was the principal theatre of
the rebellion of the Duke of Monuiouth, in 1685.
He landed at Lyine, in Dorsetshire, with scarcely a
hundred followers : but numbers immediately flocked
to his standard, and in four days he found himself
at the head of two thousand- horse and foot. The
Duke of Albemarle, at that time lord-lieutenant of
the county of Devon, was sent down to head the
militia against him. He accordingly marched to-
wards Axminster, where Mori mouth and his forces
then lay, but observing that his troops were not
very hearty in the c;uis,e, h&thought proper to retire.
The Duke, advancing to.Taunton^ received consi-
derable reinforcements, and was welcomed by the
people of the town with every demonstration of joy»
Twenty-six young ladies presented him with a pair
of colours, made at the cxpence of the townsmen.
One of them, who led the procession, advanced with
a naked sword in one hand and a small Bible in the
other, which she presented to the. Duke,, with the
colours, making a short address. While here he
assumed the title of king, and asserted, the legiti-
macy of his birth. His forces were augmented to
six thousand ; and numbers besides were obliged to
be dismissed for want of arms. He proceeded to
Bridgewater, Wells, and Fromc, at all which places
he was proclaimed. From this period, however,
his reverses began. Probably be was discouraged
at finding that no persons of note joined him, and
of being informed that his confederate, the Duke
of Argyle, had been defeated and taken. He re-
ceived this intelligence while at Frome, and fit the
same time was informed of tke advance of the
king's forces from London, under the command of
Feversham and Churchill. Concern for the fate of
his followers induced him to make one grand strug-
gle. He returned to Bridgewater, where he resolved
to fortify and maintain his position ; but the rapid
approach of his opponents caused him to alter his
plaai. On the 4th of July, 1085, intelligence was
brought that the king's forces were encamped at
Sedgemoor, within a mile and a half of his own
army. On tbe following day he reconnoitred them,
and
SOMERSETSHIRE.
101
and perceiving their disposition to be extremely
negligent and injudicious, it was determined to
•commence the attack in the dead of night. A short
time before midnight the duke's forces marched out,
and in about two hours commenced their attack on
the royal tents. There was a ditch to Cord, hut the
troops were so eager for action that (hey lost tlieir
guide, and in the confusion and delay which ensued,
the enemy took the alarm and fle<v to their posts.
A severe, battle was fought, in uhieh the duke's
men displayed great spirit and unanimity. They
threw tlieir more experienced adversaries into dis-
order, drove them from their ground, and continued
the fight until tlieir ammunition was spent. Unhap-
pily, they were hut ill supported by their cavalry ; the
horses, being unaccustomed to the noise of guns and
drums, would not come up, so that two pieces of
ordnance, out of four, were soon lost. Notwith-
standing this disadvantage, the duke, who com-
manded the infantry, continued to fight bravely,
until Lord Grey riding up to him, cried out, " All
is lost ; it is time for you to, shift for yourself."
They both fled, and their forces retreated in disor-
der. Grey was seized next day in Dorsetshire, and
the duke was, on the eighth of July, found concealed
under some straw and fern in a field. Worn out
with fatigue and hunger, and dejected with a sense
of past misfortune atid a prospect of future misery,
he burst into tears when seized by his pursuers ;
and, in the sequel, used every means which submis-
sive humiliation could dictate, to procure the king's
forgiveness. James fora time listened to him, with
a view to discover his accomplices ; but Momnouth,
spurning the idea of such treachery, and seeing no
hope of mercy, prepared for his fate with linn ness ;
and when brought to the scaffold behaved with great
intrepidity. — It is said, that immediately after the
battle of Sedgemoor, Feversham, the victorious
commander, caused above twenty prisoners to be
immediately hanged ; and was proceeding in his
atrocities, when the Bishop of Bath and Wells in-
formed him, that those unfortunate and deluded
persons were by law entitled to a trial, and that
such summary punishment was actual murder. —
These remonstrances were silenced by the king,
who sent the lord chief justice, JcH'eries, and a body
of troops under Colonel Kirk, into the wester.il
counties, with a special commission to try all who
had by any means, direct or indirect, countenanced
and assisted the Duke of Monmouth. At Dorches-
er, and at Exeter, the two first stages of Jeffories's
cruelty, he warned the numerous prisoners to make
* Some of the acts ot Kirk are market! with such a degree of
wanton barbarity, that many persons tinil it impossible to attach
entire credit to them. On one occasion, when he gave an en-
tertainment to his'officers, he is said to have ordered thirty men j
to be executed, by ten at a time, while the glass went round, n ]
three healths, one to the king, a second to the quern, and a I
third to Judge JeftVries. When the lim'o-. of the suiierers were I
shaking in the last atonies ot death, heiried out that they should
have music to their dancing, and immediately ordered the dm. us
to beat and the trumpets to sound. Another, and a more
shocking outrage, laid to his charge, wa> his conduct to a beau-
a free confession, and thereby save him the trouble
of trying them ; and those who disobeyed were or-
dered to immediate execution. At Tauutou and
Wells, such was the eli'eet of his menaces, that the
juries gave their verdict with precipitation, and
numbers of innocent persons were in consequence
confounded with the guilty. Almost every market-
town and village in the county was the scene of
these executions. The rites of sepulture were de-
nied to the sufferers ; their heads weie stuck on the
tops of houses and of steeples, and their mangled
limbs were hung on trees, in sight of their lamenting
relatives and friends. Even those who escaped the
penalty of death were obliged to submit to the ex-
tortion of fines, which reduced them to beggary ;
and where they were already too poor to pay, they
were sentenced to be whipped and imprisoned.
Jefferies did not even spare the young ladies who
formed the procession before the Duke of Mon-
mouth at Tiiunton. Miss Mary Bluke was com-
mitted to Dorchester gaol, for having 'made- the
colours, and she died there of the sm.Jl-pox. Ano-
ther of these victims of persecution presented her-
self in court, and implored the mercy of the judge,
who frowned terribly upon her, and commanded the
goaler to apprehend her. She died not many hours
after. When at length a general pardon was issued,
these young ladies were included among the eicep-
tions to it, and a demand of seven thousand pounds
was made for their ransom. This sum was intended
as a Christmas present to the maids of honour, in
whose favour the Duke of Somerset interested him-
self. Sir Francis Warre, Bart, of Hestercombe,
who was applied to for the purpose of causing the
apprehension of the maidens and their mistress,
humanely represented the matter in such a light,
that further proceedings were relinquished.
On the day after the battle, Colonel Kirk went
to Taunton with a number of prisoners, and two
cart-loads of wounded men, nineteen of whom lie
hanged while their wounds were yet bleeding, with-
out allowing even a form of trial, or permitting
their wives and children to take a last farewell.*
The affairs of the county, after this period, were
no longer of that tiistorical nature which requires
general relation.
CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS, JURIS-
DICTION, &c.]— This county, which is in the pro-
vince of Canterbury, contains -10 hundreds and 7.
liberties ; one bishopric (Bath and Wells) ; the
three archdeaconries of Bath, WelN, and Taunton,
subdivided into 13 deaneries, and 474 parishes,
tiful young woman, who came to petition for the life of a per-
son cn'leared to her by consnngu '.ni; y or affection. Smitten by
her charms neoll'ered to grunt In r supplication, on the previous
condition that she should yield to his desires: \.hich iieing ac-
rcili <l to, he in the mornini; condiu •.!< -d th'> unhappy victim of
his brutality to the window, and -.ho- fd her the p'-non lor whom
she h d sacrificed IKT HIIIK' hu !i;i. g on a Man po ' R- me
doubts, however, are entertained oi the credibility of mis hor-
rid affair, but they are hardly of weight suflicirnt lo counter-
balance t!i« generally rcccivi-d 'raUitio.i of the place where it
is said to have Ueen pt-rpetiuied,
autl
192
SOMERSETSHIRE.
and two parts of parishes. It has 16 petty ses-
sions, and 110 acting magistrates. The eastern
division of the county comprises the following
hundreds and liberties : Hundreds— Bath Forum,
Bemstone, Bruton, Brentcum-Wrington, Catasb,
Chew, Chewton, Frome, Glaston Twelve Hides,
Hartcliffe-cum-Bedminster, Horethorne, Keyn-
sham, Kilmersdon, Norton Ferris, Portbury, Wei-
low, Wells-Forum, Whitestone, and Winter Stoke.
Liberties — Hampton and Claverton, Easton and
Aim-ill, Hinton and Norton, East Cranmore, Hill-
house, Mells and Leigh, Witham Friery. The
western division contains : Hundreds — Abdick and
Bulston, Andersfield, Cannington, Carhampton,
Crewkerne, Curry North, Houndsborough, Ber-
wick, and Coker; Uuntspil-cum-Puriton, Kings-
bury East, Kingsbury West, Martock, Milverton,
Petherton North, Pethorton South, Pitney, Somer-
ton, Stone and Yeovil, Taunton and Taunton Dean,
Tintinhull, Whitley, Williton-Free- manors.
POPULATION.] — The population of this county
amounted, in the year 1700, to 195,900 ; in 1750, to
224,500 ; in 1801, to 273,750 ; of which, 1-26,927
were males, and 146,823 females ; and in 1811 (ex-
clusively of Bristol*) 303,180.— The births in this
county are in the proportion of 1 to 35 ; of marriages,
Of 1 to 129 ; and of deaths, of 1 to 52.
* For the population of Bristol, the returns for which are
sometimes made with those of Gloucester, see the preceding
list of market towns.
Summary of the Population of the County, of SOMERSET, at published by Authority of Parliament, in 1811.
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
HUNDREDS, &c.
Inhabited.
P
5 V V
.§ = '£•
60
_C
(S
Uninhabited.
Families chiefly
employed in
Agriculture.
5 = =" o
z%» £
Males.
^emales
Total
of
Persons
1 4g" 1
2 SI rt •£
sjjf
1491
340
1Q64
967
604
700
748
1234
1095
2393
981
590
789
3008
870
76
1274
1160
1161
254
1419
1061
2809
365
335
668
868
912
212
1085
846
69?
1533
511
1034
1610
2338
1636
2248
2478
3933
857
1306
1789
406
2656
1054
773
838
895
1353
1338
2757
1094
644
858
3327
1045
84
1404
1260
1354
287
1576
1086
3088
497
359
779
938
1117
290
125,0,
950
872
1812
703
1141
1957
2451
1951
2475
2775
7268
958
1441
7
4
62
S
4
2
12
3
4
, 14
10
12
5
23
16
14
10
9
2
15
11
28
1
3
2
7-
3
7
12
5
17
14
5
13
22
31
73
36
133
25
28
38
5
91
20
13
23
21
68
18
47
23
27
8
135
33
1
10
32
27
1
32
39
94
14
6
40
24
23
3
. 10
21
9
70
9
30
63
90
39
1
58
213
34
37
1140
306
528
708
449
373
649
751
812
1244
656
479
392
889
519
54
397
726
575
210
618
423
1285
242
100
461
766
126
515
640
320
1292
349
406
964
1871
1457
736
1634
96
87
126
519
71
1324
175
158
391
194
292
991
500
379
155
364
1959
192
16
755
391
702
58
367
185
1435
180
160
253
168
281
151
151
204
477
367
271
513
689
944
370
605
651
4707
570
1147
130
29
804
171
166
74
52
310
235
1013
59
10
102
479
344
14
252
143
77
19
591
478
368
75
92
65
59
70
13
584
106
75
153
83
222
304
230
124
1034
490
2465
301
168
4242
071
5419
2609
1796
1600
2190
3105
3074
6563
2387
1502
1930
7580
2384
206
3574
2884
2979
688
3619
2303
6873
11 00
796
1708
2162
2427
685
3219
2064
1995
4411
1558
2827
4035
4916
4682
6044
6321
12373
2241
(5040
2316
4470
1065
6918
2752
1972
1961
2249
3418
3287
6819
2933
1561
2261
9018
2665
244
3859
3132
3508
763
3922
2643
8082
1250
827
1943
2316
2696
716
3290
2239
2399
4861
1694
2920
4838
6179
4892
6385
7034
19123
2670
3957
8712
2036
12337
5361
3768
3561
4439
6523
6361
13382
5320
3063
4191
16598
5049
450
7433
6016
6487
1451
7541
4946
14955
2356
1623
3651
4478
5123
1401
62, »9
4303
4394
9272
3252
5792
8873
11095
9574
12429
13355
31496
4911
2316
]rlaston Twelve Hides
Hampton and Claverfon....
rlartcliffe and Brdmiiister..
Kingsbury, East and West..
Peiherton, North
Ditto, South
Pitoev
Stone
Taunton and Taunton Dea
Wells Forum.
Whilley
Williton and Free Manners.
City of Bath
Borough of Bridgewaur
Local Afilitift
Totals...,
524(i2
62943
653
1672
27472
23732
1 1 739
1 4 1 idu
1RI73I
1C\? 1 <f\
SOMERSETSHIRE.
J03
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.]— The follow-
ing is the state of the parliamentary representation :
for the County, two members ; Bath, two ; Bridge-
water, two ; Bristol, two ; Ilchester, two; Milbourne
Port, two ; Mineheail, two ; Taunton, two ; Wells,
two : in all, eighteen members.
MARKET TOWNS.] — The following are the cities,
boroughs, and market towns of the county :
Population.
Town*. Market-duys. ISO I 1811
Axbiidge Saturday 819 835
Bath Wed. and Saur 27.680 31,49b
Bridgewater......Tues. Tliurs. and Sat 3634 491 1
Bristol Wed. Fri. and Sat 40,814*51,1651
Bruton Saturday 1631 1667
Castle Carey Tuesday /.. 1281 1406
Chard ." Monday 1212 1244
Crewkerne Saturday 2576 3021
Dulv<>rton Saturday 1049 1035
Dunster Friday 772 8(38
Frome Wednesday 8748 9493
Glastonbury Tuesday..." 2035 2337
Ilchester Wednesday 817 610
Ilminster Saturday. 2045 2160
Keynshain Thursday 1591 1748
Langport Saturday 754 861
Milbourne Port (Disused) 953 1000
Minehead Wednesday 1168 1037
North Curry Tuesday 567 651
Petherlon (North) Saturday 2346 2615
Petlieston (South) Thursday 1674 1867
Shepton Mallet Friday 5104 4638
Somerton Tuesday 1145 1478
. Stowey Tuesday 586 620
Watchet Saturday 1659*
Wellington Thursday 4933 3874
'Wells Wednesday and Saturday.... 4505 5156
AVincanton Wednesday 1772 1850
Wiveliscombe Saturday 2571 2550
Yeovil Friday 2774 3118
FAIRS.]— Ashbrittle— February 25, and Oct. 19,
Aihill — April 9, and September 10.
jixbridge — February 3, March '25 ; cattle, &c.
JBackxell — September 21, cattle.
. Baghor West— May 12.
Baiitfell — January 18, July 18; cattle, &c.
Bath — February 14, and July 10.
Binegar— May 28 and 29 ; cattle.
Bishop's Lidiard — April 5.
Blagdon— August 29.
Bridgewaier — June 24, October 2, and December
28 ; cattle, cheese, &c.
Bristol — March 1, leather, broad-cloth, and cat-
tle ; September 1, broad-cloth, cattle, &c.
Broadway — September 24.
Bntynfietd — November 13.
Brutnn — April 23, and September 10.
Buck/'jnd— October 10.
Buck/and at. Mary— September 18, 19.
Buni/iam — Trinity Monday ; cattle, &c.
Cast/e-Cary — Tuesday before Palm Sunday, May
1, and Whit-Tuesday.
Chard — First Wednesday in May and in Nov.
* Excluding a portion of the suburbs,
t Including the whole of the suburbs.
VOL. IV. — NO. 155.
Cheddar— Mny 4, and October 29.
Chisselboroii<r/i— October 30.
Cock Hill— January 8.
Comb St. Nicholas, — June 17, and December 17.
Coiiqneslmry— September 14.
Crea kerne — September 4.
Crowcombc—Mny 2, August 4, and October 31.
Cun-ey- Rive/ — A u gust 4.
Dulverton—July 10, and Novembers.
Dundry— September 12.
Dunster— Whit-Monday.
East Brent*- August 2Q ; cattle.
Fresfiford— September 6.
//owe—February 24, July 22, September 1 1, and
November 25.
Glastoiilury— September 19, and October 11.
IJinton St. George — April 23.
HolloKay — May 14.
Huntspiil— June -29 ; cattle.
Ilminster— August 27.
lretc/iester— Monday before Palm Sunday, July 2,
and August 2.
Keynshum— March 24, and August 15.
Kitmington — August 25.
Kingsh mmpton—May 24, and October 16.
Latigeridge— August 2.
Langport— March 3.
Lansdown— August 10, June 29, cattle and sun-
dries ; October 5, and November 22.
Lidford-Green—May 15, and August 12.
Limpsliam— April 25".
Mark— May 20, August 10, and September 15.
Martock — August 21.
Mells— June 9, and September 29.
Milborn- Port— June 5, and October 28.
Mine/lead— Whit- Wednesday.
Moortinch — August 20.
Milverton— Easter Tuesday, July 25, October 10,
horses, cattle, cheese, &c.
Montacute — May 14.
North Curry— August 1.
North Petherlon— Mny I ; cattle.
Nunny — November 11.
Otterjoid— November 28.
Pemford — May 6, and November 8 ; cattle ; &c.
Philip's Norton — March 21, 27, May 1, and
August 29.
Por/ock — May 8, October 2, and November 6.
Porlbury— Whit-Monday.
Priddy— August 21, 22 ; cattle.
Queen-Camel — June 11, and October 25.
Red/inch— June 29.
Road — September 1 ; sheep, &c.
Ruisklon — Whit-Monday.
St. Decuman's — August 24, and September, 16;
horses, cattle, &c.
Shepton- Ma/let — May 30, and August 8.
Sno&don — May 29.
| Including the parish of St. Decuman, in which it stands
8 c Somerton
194
SOMERSETSHIRE.
Somerlon — January 27, April 1,22, May 13, June
3, and November 8 ; horses, cattle, &c.
South l-hent— October 10.
South I'etherton— July 5.
Strourda/e or l\ incantuit — August 5.
Stopfard— -June 11, and September 28. ,
Stogursey — May 2, and September 12.
JSfogumber — May 6, and August 1.
Stoke- Under- Hambden— April 25.
Storsey — September 7.
Sucklebridge — May 9, and October 15.
Tauitton — June 17, July 7, 8, 9 ; horses, cattle, &c.
Ubley— October 4.
Watchet — August 25.
Widmore — August 2 ; cattle and cheese.
Wellington — April 3, and May 15 ; cattle and sun-
dries.
JfW/oa— May 20, and October 17.
Wells— January 4, May 14, July 0, October 25,
and November 30 ; horses, cattle, and sundries.
Weston Zoyland — Sept. 9 ; cattle and cheese.
Whitedown — Whit-Monday and Tuesday ; ped-
lary, &c.
Williton— Trinity Monday; pedlary, &c.
Wiiicanton— Easter Tuesday, and September 29 ;
horses, pedlary, &c.— See Stroordale.
IVin&ham— Whit-Wednesday.
Wiviliscombe— May 12, and Sept. 25 ; cattle, &c.
Wolla-vington — October 18, cattle.
Wooton- Courtney — September 19.
Turlington — August 26.
Teovil — June 30, and November 17.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
ALLER.] — This village, of miles W. from Somer-
tou, divides, with Atiielney, the glory which is
derived from the name of Alfred ; for it was here
that the illustrious chief received the pledge of his
enemies' submission. — In the year 1645, an action
was fought at Alter, between the royalists and the
parliamentary forces. — This was the birth-place of
the celebrated Ralph Cudworth, D.I), author of
several theological and philosophical works of merit.
The south porch of Allen church has a fine Saxon
archway. In the chancel, and iti the church-yard,
are some mutilated memorials of the Boreaux family.
ASHTON.] — Long Ashton, 2| miles S. W. by W.
from Bristol, is situated in a rich and woody vale,
protected, on the north, by a range of picturesque
though bleak hills, and, on the north, by the lofty
ridge of Dundry. There is much garden-ground in
this village, in which many Roman coins have been
discovered. The houses are in general well-built,
much company resorting hither in the summer season.
The circumjacent scenery is delightful ; and, in the
vicinity, are the remains of two Roman encamp-
ments— Stokeleigh and Burwalls. — The church is
an old, but very handsome building, founded by the
.Lyons family. The nave and aisles are divided
from the chancel by a beautiful Gothic screen, of
fret and flower work, painted and gilt, executed hi
the most admirable style. One of the six bells
contained in the tower is inscribed " Sancte Johan-
nes Baptiste ora pro nobis." On the tower, are
the arms of Lyons, in stone. Amongst several
painted figures, and coats of arms, on the glass of
the windows, are the portratures of Edward IV.
and his Queen, Elizabeth Widville. Here are seve-
ral handsome monuments ; but that of Sir Richard
Choke and his lady is eminently magnificent and
beautiful.
Ashton Court, the manor-house, originally found-
ed by the Lyons family, but much altered by Inigo
Jones, occupies the S. E. slope of Ashton Down.
Its length, in front, is 143 feet : one of the rooms,
90 feet long, and 20 broad, contains numerous valu-
able portraits. — The remains of another old manor-
house, called the Lower Court, stand in a valley
to the S. W. of the village.
ATHELNEY.] — See Eastling.
AXBRIDGE.] — The ancient borough and market
town of Axbridge is 23 miles N. by. W. from
Somerton, and 131 W. by S. from London. The
parish is separated from Ove-Weare by the rivei;
Ax, over which is an ancient bridge, giving name to
the place. This borough sent members to parlia-
ment, during the reigns of the three first Edwards ;
but was afterwards excused, on the plea of poverty.—
The town consists chiefly of one street, winding from
E. to W. about half a mile in length. The shambles
and market place are towards the east end. Here
was formerly a royal chase. Knit hose are manu-
factured here. — The church, occupying an eminence
near the market-house, is a large and handsome
Gothic structure, iu the form of a cross. At the
west end is a fine tower, adorned with two statues,
in niches ; one of them, a prelate, in pontificalibus,
the other, a king, bearing a sceptre. The cloth of
the communion-table is elegantly wrought in silk, by
Mrs. Abigail, who employed seven years in com-
pleting it. This lady, and several of her family,
have monuments in the church.
BATH.] — This ancient and far-famed city, the chief
ornament of the west of England, is 32 miles N.E.
by N. from Somerton, and 107 W. by S. from Lon-
don. That it is indebted to its medicinal springs
for its origin, as well as its importance, there can
be little doubt ; but the period of its foundation is
altogether unknown. The discovery of the springs,
or rather of their virtues, was for a long time ascribed
to King Bladud, traditionally recorded "as the son
of Lud Hudibras, king of Britain about 250Q years
ago. In his youth he became infected with the
leprosy, and, at the petition of the courtiers, who
feared the contagjon, was banished by his father
from the palace. The queen on his departure gave
him a ring, as a token by which he should make
himself known to her if ever he recovered. The
young prince, when he reached Keynsham, met with
a swineherd, by whom he was retained as an assist-
ant. In a short time, he perceived that he had
tainted the pigs with his leprosy. To conceal thi*
misfortune
SOMERSETSHIRE.
19«r>
misfortune, he sought permission to drive the herd
to the opposite iside of the Avon, under pretext that
the acorns there were finer, and more abundant.
Passing the river at a ford, since denominated Swine-
ford, he led his herd to the hills on the north side of
Bath. While he was addressing his prayers to the
rising sun, the pigs, impelled by a sudden phrenzy,
ran up the valley to the spot where the hot springs,
boiling up, mixed their waters with the decayed
weeds and foliage, and formed a bog. In this warm
oozy bed the pigs began to roll and wallow with de-
light, nor could their keeper allure them away, until
extreme hunger pressed them to follow him. On
washing them, he perceived that some had shed
their white scurf ; and he had not been many days
longer in these parts, ere he perceived that one of
his best sows, which had been long wandering in
the mire about the waters, was perfectly cured.
Bladud judging that the remedy which had suc-
ceeded in a particular instance, would prove gene-
rally efficacious, stripped himself naked, alternately
rolled in the mud and wasjied in the waters, and,
after a few repititions of the discipline, came out
perfectly sound. Elated by this good fortune, he
drove home his pigs, returned to court, and, shew-
ing his ring, was recognized with rapture, and re-
stored to his former rank and dignity. His father
afterwards determined on sending him to Athens, to
improve his natural genius. A splendid retinue was
ordered to attend him ; but Bladud preferred to
travel as a private person, considering the parade of
grandeur as an impediment to the acquisition of
knowledge. After devoting eleven years to the
study .of literature, mathematics, and necromancy,
lie returned to Britain, was appointed regent during
his father's old age, and succeeded to the throne
after his death. One of his first public works was
the erection of a city near the springs, which thence-
forward became the capital of the British monarchs.
In his old age he devoted himself to the formation
of visionary projects ; the most daring of which was
the construction of a pair of wings to fly with. In
one of his attempts he tell, and broke his neck ; much
to the grief of his subjects, who had enjoyed the
blessings of his wise government more than twenty
years." — This account of the origin of Bath was
long popular ; but the enquiries of the present day
have proved it unworthy of credit, and have adduced
reasons to conclude that the city was founded by the
Romans, about the middle of the first century. The
~fjrm of the city approached to a parallelogram, ex-
tending on one side so as to form an outline some-
what pentagonal, and stretching in length, from east
to west, about 1'200 feet, and in the broadest parts,
iron north to south, 1140 feel. The wall, which
en Closed this space, appears, from subsequent dis-
coveries, to have been twenty feet above ground in
height, and in thickness sixteen feet at the base, and
eiijht at the summit, strengthened with five towers,
rising at the angles, and having four portte, or
eatrances, facing the cardinal points, which were
connected by two grand streets, dividing the city
into four parts, and intersecting each other at (he
centre. Near the point of intersection were the
springs, which the Romans converted into magni-
ficent baths, by attaching to them suitable edifices,
which, when complete, extended to two hundred
and forty feet from east to west, and one hundred
and twenty from north to south. The Roman
appellation of the city, expressive of the genial
heat and vigour derived from the springs, was
Aquae Solis, the waters of the sun. Roads were
soon constructed to communicate with the neigh-
bouring posts and encampments, and " a liule
Rome began to adorn a dreary and inhospitable
wild." - Agricola passed a winter here, after his
successful campaign in Wales ; and Arian erected
here a " fabrica," or college of armourers. About
A.D. 208, Geta, the younger son of Septimius
Severus, resided in Bath, while his father was in
Caledonia, quelling an insurrection. Some com-
plimentary statues were raised on this and other
occasions.
The most eminent of the Roman structures was
the temple of Minerva, on the eastern side of the
great fosse way, and nearly mid- way between the
Porta Decumana, and the Porta Fluinentana. Its
western front consisted of a portico, supported by
large fluted columns, of the Corinthian order. The
architraves were charged with inscriptions to the
Sulivec, the Deee campestres, %c. and the frieze was
enriched with gigantic images of birds and beasts,
and groupes of foliage. Behind this temple, towards
the east, stood the splendid baths, the foundations
of which were discovered in 1755, at the depth of
twenty feet beneath the surface. — Of the remains of
Roman grandeur discovered from time to time, vari-
ous specimens are preserved, and deposited, by
order of the corporation, in a small building erected
for the purpose at the end of Bath Street. — The
coins which have been found are principally those
of Claudius, Vespasian, Domitian, Trajan, Adrian,
Antonius Pius, Severus, Gordian, Gallienus, Diocle-
sian, Maximian, Carausius, and Constantine ; but
few, if any of them, bear any allusion to the city.
In the year 493, a large army of Saxons, under
the command of /Ella, and his three sons, Cynaenu's,
Pleting, and Cissa, encamped on Lansdown, and
laid siege to Bath. At this period the heroic Arthur
was performing wonders in favour of his country-
men: Apprized of the operations of the Saxon
general, he hastened after him, attacked, and defeat-
ed him in a bloody and obstinate battle. About
twenty-seven years afterwards, he again delivered
Bath from the assaults of these ferocious invaders,
by defeating a powerful army, on which occasion
he is said to have slain four hundred and forty men
with his own hand. In the year 577, however, the
Saxon leaders, Ceaulin and Cuthwin, the former of
whom was king of Wessex, led their armies towards
the north-east, of Somersetshire, and advanced to
Dyrham, a village about eight miles from Bath.
Here
106
SOMERSETSHIRE.
Here they encountered the three British kings,
Conrniail, Candidan, and Farinmail. After a bloody
engagement, the Saxons prevailed, and Bath, Glou-
cester, and Cirencester, were numbered among their
conquests. — The Roman name of the city was now
translated into " Hat Bathun," " hot baths ;" and
the efficacy of its waters, in the cure of diseases,
subsequently gained it the appellation of Akeman-
ceaster, the city of sick men. The Christian reli-
gion was now openly promulgated ; and in 676, a
monastery was established, through the influence of
Osric, the Saxon king of the Huicii. The town was
aunexed to the kingdom of Wessex, and received
the privilege of a Saxon burgh, having its Gerefa
or reeve, who presided over a monthly meeting of
the folcmote. In 775, Bath was seized by Offa, king
of Mercia, who restored it to a degree of its former
splendour. During the incursions of the Danes, it
seems to have sunk into ,obscurity, from which it did
not emerge until the reign of Athelstan, who granted
permission to strike coins here, and augmented the
property of the monastery. Edgar, who was inagu-
rated and anointed here by archbishop Dunstan, after
having performed the penance of omitting to wear
his crown for the space of seven years, testified his
regard for the town by the grant of several privileges.
— Several coins struck here by Canute the Great
are still preserved. During part of the Confessor's
reign, Bath was held by Edilha, his consort, having
formed a portion of her dower. After reverting to
the crown, it continued therein until the termination
of the Anglo Saxon dynasty. It was numbered, by
the Conqueror, among the royal demesnes. Plun-
dered and burnt, during the insurrection of Odo,
Bishop of Bayeux, Geoffrey, Bishop of Coutance,
Robert de Mowbray, and other Norman lords, who
favoured the claim of Robert, Earl of Normandy,
to the crown, it owed its restoration to John de
Villula, a native of Tours, who purchased it of
Rufus, in 1090, for five hundred marks. Having
obtained permission to remove the pontifical seat
from Wells thither, he rebuilt the monastery and
church, restored the public and private edifices, and
thus became the founder of a new city, on the ruins
of the old one. Henry the First confirmed and
extended the privileges which his predecessor had
granted, by adding the hidage of the city ; and, in
1106, Villula, now Bishop of Bath, conferred the
whole on the monastery of St. Peter. Henry paid
a visit to Bath in the Easter of 1107. — The city
remained in the possession of the bishops until 1193,
when Savaric gave it to Richard the First, in ex-
change for the rich abbey of Glastonbury. The
prior, however, continued to hold the city under an
annual rent of thirty pounds, exclusive of the levies
which were made by the king on extraordinary emer-
gencies. One of these occurred in the forty-seventh
year of Edward the Third, to theamountof 13/. 6s. 8d.
a. sum which conveys an idea of the inferiority of
Bath, in point of population, to Bristol, which paid
seven times as much. Four years after that period,
the number of lay inhabitants in the city, above the
age of fourteen, amounted to 570, and that of the
clerics in the arch-deaconry to 201. In this and
succeeding reigns the property of the monastery
was greatly augmented ; and the monks of Bath are
said to have cultivated the manufacture of cloth to
such an extent as to render it one of the principal
cities in the west of England for that branc bof
trade. — At the Dissolution, the site of the abbey was
granted to Humphrey Colles, who afterwards dis-
posed of it to Matthew Colethurst. His son Edmund
presented the abbey church, which was then become
ruinous, having been strip! of its lead, glass, iron,
and bells, to the mayor and citizens of Bath, for
their parochial church, with certain ground about
it for a church -yard. He sold the abbey -house,
with the park called Prior's Park, to Fulk Morley,
from whose descendants the former estate devolved
through the late Duke of Kingston, to the present
Lord Newark ; and the latter through the Aliens to
the present Lord Hawarden. — This city sent mem-
bers to parliament as early as 1297. Queen Eliza-
beth, in 1590, granted a charter, which declared
Bath to be a city of itself, and constituted a certain
number of the citizens as a corporation, by the name
of "the mayor, aldermen, and citizens of the city
of Bath." In 1794 a new royal charter was granted,
with some extension of ancient privileges. — During
the civil wars of Charles, Bath was fortified for the
king, at an expence of seven thousand pounds ; but
it was seized by the Earl of Bedford, who also took
possession of a great part of the county. After the
battle of Roundway Down, where Waller was de-
feated, the city was again put in possession of the
royalists, who held it for nearly two years, when it
was gained by the parliament, through treachery of
the governor, and remained under its controul until
the Restoration. In the reign of James the Second,
the corporation shut the gates of the city against the
Duke of Monmouth, when he summoned them, and
apprehended the few adherents to his cause that
remained within their walls. Six of these unfortu-
nate persons afterwards fell victims to the vindictive
cruelty of Jefferies. The Jacobite principles pre-
vailed at Bath long after the revolution ; and Carte,
the historian, is said to have headed a party in
favour of the Pretender, during the rebellion of 1715.
Being discovered, he leaped out of a window in his
canonicals, and fled.
The following monarchs and princes have occa-
sionally resided here : Osric, Offa, and most of the
princes of the Saxon line ; William Rufus, Henry
the First, Henry the Second, Edward the First,
Edward the Second, Edward the Third, Henry the
Fourth, Henry the Seventh, Edward the Sixth,
Elizabeth, James the First, Charles the First,
Charles the Second, James the Second, and his
Queen ; Frederick Prince of Wales, and his con-
sort ; the Princess Amelia, &c. His Royal High-
ness the present Prince Regent, visited Bath, and
accepted its freedom, in 1796.
The
SOMERSETSHIRE.
197
The city is nearly surrounded by an amphitheatre
of hills of considerable height. This range of hills
opens to allow a course for the Avon, which winds
rounds the city, receiving abundant articles of mer-
chandize, from thence conveyed in barges to Bristol.
Bath is divided into four parishes : St. Peter and
St. Paul, St. James, St. Michael, and Walcot, ex-
clusive of the out parishes of Bath-Hampton, Bath-
Wick, Bath-Ford, and Bath-Easton. The parish
of St. Peter and St. Paul occupies the centre of the
city, and formerly contained two churches, the abbey
church, and the church of St. Mary of Stall, which
stood on the spot of ground now occupied by the
houses connected with the Pump-room Piazza. —
The Abbey church of Bath is of that class of archi-
tecture commonly denominated the Florid Gothic.
It remains in the same form as when finished in
1532. It was founded by Oliver King, Bishop of
Bath and Wells. It is in length from east to west,
210 feet ; length of the cross aisles from north to
south, 126 feet ; breadth of the body and aisles,
72 feet ; height of the tower, 152 feet ; and the height
of the roof, or vaulting, 78 feet. The grand entrance
in the centre is filled with a rich ornamented door,
given, in 1617, by Sir Henry Montague, brother to
the bishop of that name. It is charged with the
arms of the see, impaling those of Montague, and
round the shield is the device of the Order of the
Garter, 'Honi soit qui mal y pense.' On each side
are rich canopied niches, inclosing the statues of
St. Peter and St. Paul, the apostolick patrons of
the church. — The west window is of extreme rich-
ness. The buttresses, on each side of the aisle win-
dows, are ornamented with rolls containing inscrip-
tions not now legible, but nre said to contain the
following allegorical allusion to the founder's name,
taken out of the book of Judges, chap. ix. verse 8
' Jerunt ligna ut ungcrent se regem,
1 Dixeruntque Olivae impera nobis.'
• Trees, going to choose their king,
• Said — be to us the Olive king.'
The windows of this church, fifty -two in number,
are supposed to have given rise to its appellation of
* Richard Nash was a native of Swansea in Glamorganshire,
and was horn October 18, 1674. His parents were in a re-
spectable situation of life ; and young Nash received a com-
petent classical education at Carmarthen school, from whence
he was sent to Jesus College, Oxford, at the early age of sixteen.
He was intended for the profession of the law ; but this study
was too dull and dry for a person of his volatile turn. Pleasure
was the goddess he adored; and to whose service he devoted
himself. He soon involved himself in an intrigue with an artful
female in Oxford, of which description inere are always num-
bers who are laying baits for young men of family or personal
appearance, and in consequence of this he was removed from
the University.— His relations now purchased a pair of colors
tor him in the army ; and here his taste for galhntry and dissipa-
tion would have been fully gratified, had not his inferioi rank,
and the duties attached»to it, subjected him to subordination ;ind
restraint, which appeared intolerable tor a man born to empire,
and whose ruling passion was too strong to submit to controul.
He therefore left the army in disgust, and returned to the law,
which he had discarded, by entering himself a student of the
VOL IV. — NO. J45.
the Lantern of England. Here are various monu-
ments, ancient and modern, and a handsome altar-
piece, representing The Wise Men's Offering, given
by General Wade. Here is also a fine specimen
of monumental architecture in the little chapel, or
oratory of Prior Bird, who died in 1525. This
chapel has suffered much from having its tracery
despoiled, and a part of it cut away to make room for
a wooden seat, called the Bishop's Throne. One of
the most beautiful and conspicuous monuments which
ornament the transepts and nave is that of Bishop
Montague, at the north centre end of the nave. !(;
is an altar-tomb, over which the effigy of the pre-
late in his robes lies prostrate on its back. Opposite,
to this is a pillar, bearing a neat monument, having,
on a pyramid of Sienna marble, a medallion, with a
half-length figure of the witty and celebrated Quin.
On a tablet below is the following inscription .
That tongue which set the table on a roar,
And charm'd the public ear, is heard no more ;
Clos'd are those eyes, the harbingers of wit, .
Which spake, before the tongue, what Shakespeare writ ;
Cold is that hand, which living wasstretch'd forth,
At friendship's call to succour modest w,orth.
Here lies James Quin : — Deign, reader, to be taught,
Whate'er thy strength of body, force of thought,
In nature's happiest mould however cast,
* T,o this complexion thou must come at last.'
D. GARHICK.
Ob. MDCCLXVI. Etatis LXXIII.
Near the last mentioned monument lies buried the
celebrated Beau Nash, long master of (he ceremo-
nies at Bath.* — Here are several other monuments,
with inscriptions worthy of note. — In the south siile
of the choir is a sarcophagus, under a canopy, sup-
ported by six pillars of the Ionic order, This con-
tains two bodies, a m;ile and female, lodging in
slight oak coffins; one upon another. When Mr.
Gough saw tli cm, in 1780, the skin of the man was
completely dried on the breast and liclly, and the
hair of his head, chin, and chest, perfectly preserved ;
that on his head thin and red. The n^ils on tho
great toe and third toe of the left foot wt re perfect
and long, and the leader of the leg complete. The
toes
Middle Temple. Soon afterwards Nash was presented with an
opportunity of exercising his natural talents. It had In en an
ancienUcustom with the society to which he now belonged, to
entertain every new sovereign with a revel and a pageant. On
the accession of William, Prince of Orange, Nasli was selected
as the most proper person to conduct this mighty business;
and he succeeded so well, that, it is said, William offered to
knight him, an honor which he declined. His abilities, how-
ever, had attracted public notice, and this paved the way to hi*
future success. Bath then beginning to rise into some little
repute as a place of fashionable resort, Nash was induced to
visit it in pursuit of pleasure, and soon made himself conspicu-
ous by his taste, wit, and gaiety. At this period, it was the
fashion for both sexes to bathe together quite naked, and for the
ladies to adorn their heads before they entered the bath with
all the lures of dress. By these means their charms were set off
to such advantage, that the husband of a lady in tin: Cross
Bath, who with Nash and other spectators were admiring the
female dabblers, told his wife "she looked like an »ngel, and
he wished to be with her." Nash seized the favourable occasion
3D *«
19*
SOMERSETSHIRE.
iocs of (he left foot were less perfect. Tlie woman
was completely enveloped in a wrapper of linen,
Jncrusted with wax. The left hand, lying on the
belly, was withered and dried like the man's. Mr.
Warner says, they are embalmed relics of Thomas
Lychefield, lutanist to Queen Elizabeth, and of Mar-
garet, his wife. On the south side of this aisle there
is a Testry, containing a small library, begun by
Bishop Lake. In the month of December, 1818,
an elegant monument, to the memory of the late
Sir Alexander Thompson, Chief Baron of the Court
of Exchequer, was placed in the choir. On the top
of it are emblems of justice, and volumes of Law
books, neatly executed : the drapery bears an ap-
propriate and merited inscription.
The church of St. James stands a little eastward
from the site of the old South Gate. In 1708 and
1769 the body of the church was rebuilt, after a plan
furnished by Mr. Palmer, architect of Bath, the
expences being defrayed partly by voluntary sub-
scription, but principally by monies advanced on
the security of church rates and rents. It is of free-
stone, in (he modern Gothic style.
The parish of St. Michael, or St. Michael extra
tnuros, occupies a short space between the northern
limits of the old city, and the foot of Lansdown Hill.
to establish his reputation as a man of gallantry and spirit, and
therefore suddenly taking the gentleman by the collar and the
waistband of his breeches, soused him over the parapet into the
bath. The consequence wasaduel, in which Nash was wounded
in the sword arm ; and, as it does not appear lie was fond of
fighting, it is probable that this incident. prompted him when he
rose to power to issue his edict against wearing swords at Bath,
" except by such as were not entitled to wear them at any other
place." — About this time a vacancy happening in the office of
master of ceremonies, a place hitherto of little profit or honour,
the well known talent of Nash for the direction and invention
of amusements, operated so much in his favour, that he was
chosen ' arbiter elegantiarum,' and invested with the fullest
power to order, arrange, and improve, the manner of the com-
pany, routine of amusements, and points of etiquette. — Under
the equal administration of Nash, no rank could protect the
offender, nor any dignity of situation influence him to connive
at a breach of his laws. He deliberately desired the Duchess
of Queensbury, who appeared at a dress ball in an apron, to take
it off; and when the Princess Amelia requested to have one
(lance more after eleven o'clock, he replied, that the laws of
Bath, like those of Lycurgus, wc-re unalterable. — Thisfirniness of
character was attended with the most beneficial consequences ;
and Nash, not ignorant what majesty is when stripped of its
externals, took care by his dress and pquip:ige to support the
rank he assumed. He wore a large white hat, and drove a
carriage with six greys, escorted by several persons on horse-
back, and foot, with French horns and other kinds of musical
instruments. The Prince of Wales, the Piince of Orange, the
nobility and gentry, all treated him with respect ; and the cor-
poration, who might be considered as his privy council, never
took any steps without his fiat. The chamber even voted a
marble statue for the King of Bath, which was erected in the
Pump-room, between the busts of Newton and Pope. This
was carrying adulation too far ; and the keen wit of Chesterfield
could not suffer such a happy occasion to pass without exer-
cising it. His epigram, which concluded with these lines, will
always be remembered.
"The statue plac'd these busts between,
Adds to my satire strength ;
Wisdotti and Wit are little seen,
But Folly at full length."
The old church was taken down in the year 1734,
when a new one was begun to be erected, which,
from its inconvenience, and want of elegance, is con-
sidered to be quite disgraceful to the city.
Walcot Church, dedicated to St. Swithin, was
rebuilt in 1780, after the design of St. James's
church ; but by a subsequent enlargement and alte-
ration, the elegant proportions of that structure could
not be preserved. It stands at the point whence the
fosse road and the vicinal way leading to Weston
diverge. The population of this parish increasing
rapidly, four chapels of ease, and one church, have
been at different periods erected. — Of these Queen
Square Chapel, is considered as a monument of
the taste of Mr. Wood, who formed its plan from
that of an ancient temple at Athens. He built it in
1735. Its exterior is of the Doric, and its interior
of the Ionic order. — Margaret Chapel, a large in-
elegant building, erected in 1773, received its name
from Mrs. Margaret Gerrard, lady of the manor,
and patroness of the living of Walcot. — All Saints
Chapel, under Lansdown Hill, an elegant structure,
in the florid Gothic, from a plan of Mr. Palmer, was
finished in 1794. Its dimensions are sixty-four feet
in length, and forty-six in width, within the walls,
exclusive of four recesses for stoves. — Kensington
His prosperity was of long duration ; and, if a man who
supported himself by gambling and intrigues ran be said to
deserve prosperity, it was justly due to this celebrated character :
but at length age and infirmities approached ; and though Ho-
race says, we should preserve consistency to the last, it appeared
ridiculous to see grey hairs and decrepitude aping the gaiety
and hilarity of youth. His admirers in consequence fell off;
and he lived to be sensible of the folly of a life solely devoted
to pleasure, and the vanity of pomp, whether real or affected.^-
King Nash died February 3, 1761, and was buried, at the ex-
pence of the corporation, in the abbey church, with much pomp
and solemnity. The crowd that attended his funeral was so
great, that not only the streets were filled, but the very tops
of the houses were covered with spectators.
" Long reign'd the great Nash, this omnipotent lord,
Respected by youth, and by parents adorn'd ;
For him not enough at a ball to preside,
The unwary and beautiful nymph would he guide.
Oft tell her a tale, how the credulous maid
By man, perfidious man, is betray 'd ;
Taught Charity's hand to relieve (he distress'd,
AVhile tears have his tender compassion express'd:
But alas ! he is gone, and the city can tell
How in years and in glory lamented hf fell ;
Him mourn'd all the Dryads on CLAVERTON'S mount;
Him Avon deplor'd, him the nymph of the fount,
The crystalline streams.
Then perish his picture, his statue decay,
A tribute more lasting the Muses shall pay.
If true what philosophers all will assure us,
Who dissent from the doctrine of great Epicurus,
That the spirit's immortal : as poets allow,
If life's occupations are followed below :
In reward of his labours, his virtue and pains,
He is footing it now in the Elysian plain-,
Indulg'd as a token of PROSERPINK'S favour,
To preside at her balls in a cream-colour'd beaver."
ANSLEV"* New Bath Guide.
Chapel,
SOMERSETSHIRE.
Chapel, on the eastern side of the London road, is
the work of the same architect. It was opened in
January, 1795. — Christ's Church was built for the
express purpose of providing a place of worship for
the poor, on a piece of land presented hy Lord
Rivers. The whole area was appropriated to the
use of persons who could not afford to pay for seats,
and the galleries alone were reserved for letting.
From the rent which they produce, the expences of
the institution are defrayed. — The common hurial
place of the parish of Walcot is a little to the eastward
of the parish church. It appears to have been used
as a emu-try in the time of the Romans.
The Octagon, an elegant chapel, in Milsom Street,
was huilt in 1767. The altar-piece, representing
the Pool of Bethesda, was painted by Mr. Hoare,
of Bath. — Laura Chapel, erected in 1796, was built
on a tontine scheme, and its returns are said to be
considerable. — The little chapel of St Mary Mag-
dalene, near the top of Holloway, was founded in
the twelfth century, and rebuilt in the fifteenth cen-
tury, by John Cantlovv, Prior of Bath. It has long
been overgrown with ivy, and being built in a neat
Gothic style, has a romantic effect from the road.
Adjoining is a small lunatic hospital, partly sup-
ported by the same endowment.
Amongst the places of worship, for the Dissen-
ters, are the Unitarian Chapel, in Trim Street ;
the Baptist Chapel, in Garrard Street ; the Quaker's
Meeting-house, on St. James's Parade; the Chapel
of the Unitas Fratrum, or Moravians, in Monmouth
Street ; a Clmpel belonging to the Wesleynn Me-
thodists, in New King Street ; an Independent Cal-
vinist Chapel, in Argyle Street ; a sort of semi-
episcopal Chapel, in the connection of the late
Countess of Huntingdon, in Harlequin Row, Bath ;
and a Roman Catholic Chapel in Orchard Street.
The original pump-room, begun in 1704, was
opened under the auspices of Mr. Nash. Its object
was to enable the drinkers to take exercise without
exposing themselves to the weather. The room was
enlarged in 1751 ; a portico, stretching from it in a
northerly direction, was added in 1786 ; and a superb
western frontispiece in 1791. Five years afterwards,
Mr. Baldwin, the architect, erected a new pump-room
on the site of the old one, on a more extensive and
magnificent scale. Its length, including two coved
recesses at the ends, is eighty-five feet, its breadth
forty-five feet, and its height thirty-four feet. It is
lighted by a double range of windows, and has a
music-gallery at the western end. The eastern
recess contains a marble statue of Nash, by Moare,
and an excellent clock, by Tompion. In the centre
of the south side is a marble vase, from which the
waters issue, and are handed warm to the company
* The diseases in which their external and internal uses
render most service, are affections of the liver and stomach,
jaundice, hypochoiulriasis, and chlorosis. They are especially
efficariuus in that state ot gout termed atonic. The exlernal
application of the water is highly beneficial in palsy, chronic
by the pumper. During the full season, a company
of musicians perform in the gallery every morning.
Those who drink the waters, are expected to pay
about a guinea per month, besides a gratuity to
the pumper. The exterior is finished in a style
of architecture correspondent with that of the inte-
rior. On the architrave under the tympanum is
a Greek inscription, literally signifying, " Verily
water is best ;" by some interpreted, " Bath water
is better than Bath wine." — The public baths are
four in number : the King's Bath, and Queen's
Bath, which are connected with each other ; the Hot
Bath, and the Cross Bath. The private baths are
those belonging to the corporation, in Stall Street,
adjoining the King's Bath, built in 1788, with dry
pumps, siulatories, and every other accommodation ;
and the neat and convenient baths, called the Duke
of Kingston's, or the Abbey Baths, belonging to
Karl Manvers. The latter are supplied from the
same source as the great pump-room. — The King's
Bath, at the southern side of the pump-room, is
sixtv.-five feet ten inches in length, and forty feet
ten inches in breadth ; and when filled to its usual
height contains upwards of three hundred and forty-
six tons of water. In the central part, where the
springs boil up, is a brass hand-rail, of an octan-
gular form, and round the sides runs a Doric
colonnade, to shelter the bathers from the incle-
mency of the weather. The bath, in its hottest
part, raises the thermometer to lift degrees, in its
coolest, to 100. Two commodious rooms open into
this bath, fitted up with pumps, and pipes to direct
the hot water to any particular part of the body.
There are also fire-places, and other conveniences
for the use of the bathers. — The Queen's Bath, a
square of twenty-five feet, behind the King's Bath,
is furnished with similar inconveniences ; but the
temperature is somewhat lower. The Cross Bath,
at the extremity of Bath Street, is of a triangular
form, and has a small neat pump-room attached to
it. The appellation is derived from a cross which
the Earl of Melfort, secretary to King James the
Second, erected in its centre, in commemoration of
the benefit which the queen derived from bathing in
it. — The Hot Bath, about forty yards south-west of
the Cross Bath, is distinguished by the superior
heat of its waters, their temperature being 117 de-
grees. The building includes a public bath, and
several private ones ; a vapour bath, dry pumps,
and dressing-rooms ; and machines for assisting the
infirm in bathing. A new pump-room has been
erected near this bath, which on account of its having
no steps to ascend, is peculiarly adapted (o invalids.
— The Bath* springs are said to have three distinct
sources, the King's Bath, the Hot Bath, and the
Cross
rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, scrofula, lameness, contrac-
tions,&c. The water, in all cases, should if practicable be drunk
hot from the pump. Its effect on the stomach and nerves are
sometimes remarkably speedy ; persons who have lost their
appetites and spirits by high living, have, by using them a few
days,
200
SOMERSETSHIRE.
Cross Bath, which arise within a small distance of
each other. They contain a small quantity of car-
bonic acid gas, and also of azotic gas ; some sul-
phate of soda, and muriate of soda ; selenite ; car-
bonate of lime ; siliceous earth ; and a portion of
oxyd of iron. — These waters, taken internally,
operate as a stimulant ; they increase the action of
the blood-vessels, and promote the various secre-
tions, particularly those of urine and perspiration.
The General Hospital of this city was established
for the reception of all the sick poor in the united
kingdom, whose complaints require relief from the
springs of the place ; excepting the resident poor,
who have the advantage of taking the waters at
their own houses ; at a moderate charg'e. This
institution owed its origin to the celebrated Nash,
who in 1715, suggested the plan to a number of
gentlemen, and induced them to subscribe a large
sum for carrying it into execution. No active steps,
however, were taken until 1738, when the hospital
was built by Mr. Wood, the architect, on the site
of the old theatre. The first stone was laid by the
Right Hon. William Pulteney, afterwards Earl of
Bath. The building is of the Ionic order, and
consists of a ground-floor, principal and chamber-
stories, well adapted to the uses for which they were
designed. The concerns of the institution are vested
In a body corporate of ninety persons, under the
denomination of " President and Governors of the
Generitl Hospital, or Infirmary of Bath." The funds
arise from annual subscriptions, occasional donations,
and collections made twice a year at charity-sermons,
preached in the churches and chapels of Bath.
St. John's Hospital, and chapel, a little to the ,
•westward of the Cross Bath, were built by Mr. j
Wood, the architect, in 1728, upon the site of an
older hespital, erected in the reign of Elizabeth.
This institution accommodates six old infirm men,
and as many women, who have each an apartment
allowed them, a certain proportion of coals, and
4s. 8d. per week. This institution was founded by ;
Reginald Fitz-Joceline, Bishop of Bath and Wells,
in 1180.
days, recovered tlieir powers of digestion and cheerfulness of
mind. The quantity taken is seldom more than a pint and a halt
in the course of the day, and is divided into three portions, two
before breakfabt, allowing half an hour between them, and a
third at noon. The condition of (lie patient !•', however, to be
strictly attended to ; and the quantity must be regulated at
the discretion of the physician. "We cannot," observes
Warner, " loo strongly inculcate that they are stimulants of
the most active kind, and consequently capable of producing
all the mischievous effects of stimuli when unsuitably or exces-
sively applied. Whenever there exists in the system either ex-
traordinary fulness, a general inflammatory state, or any local
inflammation ; if there be the smallest indication of any disorder
of the head or chest, consisting either of too great determination
of blood, or inci'cated action of the blood- vessels, in these,
and all analogous conditions, the internal use of the Bath waters
is peculiarly deleterious," The same indications respecting
the disagreement of the Bath waters internally, apply to their
external use, and of course an equal degree of caution is to be
used. The continuance in the bath may be, for any time, from
The Bimberies, Blarfk-Alms, or Hospital of St.
Catherine, in Bimberry Lane, is said to have been
founded on the site of an ancient alms-house, built
by two sisters, of the name of Bimberry. It re-
ceives its second name from the colour of the gar-
ments worn by the paupers belonging to it, as a
mark of lamentation for the loss of the royal founder,
Edward the Sixth ; and has its third appellation
from Catherine, the mother of Queen Mary, in
whose reign the building was completed. The
hospital is a low mean structure, near the south-
west angle of the Borough- walls, containing fourteen
tenements, fitted up for as many paupers of each
.sex, who are allowed 3*. 6d. per week each, and a
black coat once in two years.
Edward the Sixth granted upwards of eighty
tenements, gardens, &c. within the city and its
suburbs, for the purpose of founding a grammar-
school at Bath, and maintaining ten poor folk
within the said town for ever.
Bellott's Hospital is situated in Bell-Tree Lane,
on land belonging- to St. John's Hospital, but granted
to the corporation by Tobias Rustat, Esq. in 1672.
It is now a low building, and entertains twelve poor
men and women, who have each an apartment, the
liberty of bathing, and an allowance of Is. lOd. per
week ; the mayor nominating such objects to the
charity as its physician shall recommend. It con-
tinues open only half the year, from Lady-Day to
Michaelmas. Thomas Bellott, Esq. the great bene-
factor of the Abbey Church, founded this hospital
in the reign of James I. for the reception1 of twelve
of the poorest strangers who should come to Bath
for the use of its waters.
Some charitable persons founded an hospital hera
in 1747, for the reception of diseased paupers. It
was called the Pauper Charity till 1792, when great
improvements having been made in the establish-
ment, it was termed the Bath City Dispensary and.
Asylum. This excellent institution is equally open
to medical and surgical cases. — It is supported by
annual subscriptions, occasional benefactions, and
church collections.
ten minutes to half an hour, and is to be determined by avoid-
ing the production of any degree of faintness or debility. The
best time for bathing is in the morning, fasting; but persons of
delicate constitutions are frequently advised, by their medical
guides, to use the bath some hours after dinner. Dry pumping
is another mode of applying the water, and is chiefly practised
in topical diseases. The water, supplied to a pump from the
spring, is directed solely to the part affected, and by its degree
of heat and stimulus often produces great relief. From fifty to
two or three hundred strokes of the pump (as they are termed,)
either in the general bath, or in the, open air, are enough at a
time. They may be repeated daily, or every oilier day. It
must be observed, that much of the efficacy of the Bath waters,
in any of the modes of using them, depends on the perseverance
of the patient. The disease has sometimes yielded to a con-
tinued application of the remedy, when a short trial has been
unproductive of benefit; and it has often been found, thai a
recurrence to the waters, after some intermission, has been at-
tended with the wished for success.
Tli.
SOMERSETSHIRE.
The Casualty Tlospital, established by a few of
the inhabitants in 1788, alibi ds an asylum, till re-
covery, to p;iupers who have been injured by acci-
dent. It is supported by voluntary contributions.
The Child-bed Charity was established in 179-2,
for the relief of poor married women at their own
dwellings.
The Grammar- School, an elegant structure, on
the west side of Broad Street, was built in 1752.
The master's salary amounts to forty guineas per
annum, paid by the corporation ; with the addition
of 'the little living of Charlecombe, near Bath. This
establishment was founded by Edward the Sixth,
under the same charter that established the Black
Alms charity.
In 1711, Robert Nelson, Esq. proposed a sub-
scription, for the foundation of a Charity-School ;
and the fund soon became so considerable, that the
present school-house, on the Borough-Walls, was
compleated at the expence of 1000/. the corporation
granting the land, and contributing a handsome
subscription. The charity is supported by collec-
tions, twice every year, at all the churches and
chapels in Bath ; by donations, and legacies, annual
subscriptions, &c. The institution receives fifty boys
* The regulations express, 1st. That the appointment of
the masters and mistresses should be in the rectors of Walcot
and Bath. 2nd. That the books of instruction should he such
only as are in the list of those recommended by the Society for
Promoting Christian Knowledge. 3d. That the children should
attend divine service every Sunday at the Abbey. 4th. That all
children recommended from the parishes of Bath, Walcot, Wid-
combe, and Bailiwick, should be admitted into the schools. The
children admitted, originally amounted to 1000, out of which
160 boys and girls were selected, and received into a house fitted
up for the purpose in St. James's Street, (called the School of
Industry) for a certain number of hours every day, where they
were to be taught the principles of the Christian religion ; and
employed in sewing, knitting, and making nets, under the su-
perintendancc of proper mistresses, and the occasional inspec-
tion of ladies and gentlemen, and clothed in a neat uniform out
of the funds of the institution. The remainder of the children
were to be divided into separate schools, and instructed on the
Sundays only ; but from that number the occasional vacancies
in the selected children were to be filled up.
t The following rules and regulations, drawn up by Mr.
Nash, in 1742, till within these few years, hung up i'n the
Lower Kooms:
" I. That a visit of ceremony at coming to Bath, and another
at going away, is all that is expected or desired by ladies of
quality and fashion — except impertinents.
"•II. That ladies coming to the ball, appoint a time for their
footmen's coming to wait on them home, to prevent disturbances
snd.-inconveniences to themselves and others.
" jfetl. That gentlemen of fashion, never appearing in a morn-
ing before tho.'ladies in gowns and caps, shew breeding and
respect.
*' IV. That no person take it ill that any one goes to another's
play or breakfast, ami not to theirs — except captious by nature.
" V. That no gentleman give his lickels tor the balls to any but
gentlewomen. — N.B. unless he has none of his acquaintance.
" VI. That gentlemen crowding before the ladies at a ball,
shew ill-manners ; and that none do so for the future — except
such as respect nobody but themselves.
"VII. 'I hat no gentleman or lady take it ill that another dance
before them — except such as have no pretence to dance at all.
VOL. IV. — NO, 155.
and fifty girls, who are taught reading, writing,
and arithmetic ; sewing, knitting, and house- wil'ery
business.
Henry Soulhby, Esq. succeeded in estabirshing
here, in 1785, Snnday-sohools, for the instruction of
the children of the poor.*
" The Bath and West of England Society for the
encouragement of agriculture, arts, manufactures,
and commerce," was suggested and established by
the late Mr. Edmund Rack, iu 1777. Its meetings
are held in Hetling House.
The Philosophical Society was established in
1799, upon a plan somewhat similar to that at Man-
chester ; and a public library, including only books
of science, and works of great expence, was esta-
blished in 1800.
In 1810, a free-school, on the plan of Joseph
Lancaster, was established here. .An Auxiliary Bible
Society, and a Penitentiary for the Reformation of
Prostitutes, have also been instituted.
Amongst the places of amusement, at Bath, may
be mentioned several sets of Assembly-rooms of
adequate dimensions, regulated by masters of
ceremonies, whose office is now both profitnble and
honourable.f
The
" VIII. That the elder ladies and children be contented witli •
a second bench at the ball, as' bring past or not come to per-
fection.
" IX. That the younger ladies take notice how many eyes
observe thein. — N.B. This-does not extend to the have-at-alls.
" X. That all whisperers of lies and scandal be takenfor thetr
authors.
" XI. That all repeaters of such lies and scandal be shunned
by all company — except such as have been guilty of the same
crime.
" N. B. Several men of no character, old women, and young
ones of questioned reputation, are great authors of lies in this
place, being of the sect of lerelltrs."
In the year 1771, the amusements and accommodations at
Bath were made complete, by the opening of the New Assem-
bly, or Upper Kooms ; the first stone oi which was laid in
1769, under the direction of the late Mr. Wood, architect.
They cost 20,000/. The following are the rules of these
rooms : —
" Resolved, That the power of direction and controul, rela-
tive to the public amusements of these rooms, is in the sub-
scribers to the dress balls, and them only.
" That the weekly public amusements in these rooms, during
the season, be, as follows :
' Wednesday night, concert.
' Thursday night, I'ahcy ball.
Monday night, dress ball. .
' Tuesday night, card assembly.
' N. !5. The rooms to be open every day, Sunday excepted,
for cards ; and every other Sunday evening, for a promenade.
" That a subscription of one guinea to the dress balls shall
entitle such subscriber to admission every ball night; and also
to two tickets, transferable to ladies only.
" That a subscription of half a guinea to the dress ball shall
entitle such subscriber to one ticket every riight, not transfer-
able. Young ladies and gentlemen at their school vacation will
be admitted, when introduced by a subscriber.
" That a subscription of half a guinea to the fancy ball shall
entitle the subscriber to one ticket every ball-night ; this ticket
not transferable.
" That the dress and fancy balls shall begin as soon as possi-
3 E .-a -• hl«
202
SOMERSETSHIRE.
The Bath Theatre is scarcely inferior to those of
the metropolis. The present building was erected
about the year 1805, in the centre of the city ; and,
from its height, it forms a prominent object in the
distance from all its environs. There are three
entrances ; the grand front being in Beaufort Square.
The audience part is somewhat smaller than was
that of the late Covent Garden Theatre, but the
space behind the curtain is much larger. The
length, within the main walls, is one hundred and
twenty feet ; the breadth sixty feet ; and the height
seventy. The exterior buildings are very extensive.
There are three lofty tiers of boxes, affording a depth
of rows towards the centre. Cast ' iron bronzed
pillars are placed at a distance of two feet from the
We aftcfr seven o'clock, and conclude precisely at eleven, even
in the middle of a dance.
" That in future every person, on admission to these rooms
on dress and fancy ball nights, shall pay sixpence for tea.
" That a reasonable time be allowed, between the minuets
and country-dances, for ladies of precedence to take their places ;
and that those who shall stand up after the dance is begun, must
take their places for that dance at the bottom.
" That no lady do permit another to come in above her after
she has taken her place in the set.
"That ladies who intend dancing minuets do wear lappets;
and it is requested that the rest of their dress be as conformable
as possible to this distinction, regard being had to the prevailing
fashion of the times. It is also hoped, that gentlemen will ac-
commodate their dress to the ladies.
" That the three front seats, at the upper end of the room,
be reserved for the ladies of precedence of the rank of Peeresses
of Great Britain or Ireland.
" That gentlemen's annual subscription for walking in these
rooms be half a guinea ; and ladies' subscription for the same
five shillings.
" That no person be permitted to frequent the walking in
these rooms who is not a subscriber.
" That no gentlemen in boots, or half-boots, be admitted into
any of these rooms on ball nights, or public card or concert
nights.
" That no person be admitted into any of these on dress-ball
nights without a ticket ; but that no ticket of admission to the
card-room be required on fancy ball nights from such persons
as subscribe to the walking subscription.
" That non-subscribers be admitted to the promenade on
Sunday evening ; gentlemen paying one shilling, and ladies six-
pence, tea included.
" That the renters of these rooms having agreed with the sub-
scribers to furnish twenty-six dress balls on the guinea subscrip-
tion, and thirty fancy balls on the half-guinea subscription, no
annual account of the expenditure be required of them.
'"' That the musical band of these rooms do consist of twelve
performers, including a harp, tabor, and. pipe; each performer
to be allowed a sum not exceeding half-a-guinea on each ball*
night for his attendance, which money is to be taken from the
subscription of the respective balls.
" That five guineas per week be allowed from the dress ball
subscription, to the payment of the accustomed band ot ten per-
formers in the Pump Room.
•' That no person be permitted to play with cards left by
another party.
" That rto hazard, or unlawful game of any sort, be allowed
in these rooms on any account whatever, nor any cards on
Sundays.
" That all future orders and regulations agreed to in general
meetings be inserted in the subscribers' book, and signed by the
chairman of (he meeting for the time being; such orders and
rules not to be altered by any authority whatever, but at a
front, by which the first row of each circle appears
as a balcony, independent of the main structure, and
thus an inconceivable lightness is obtained. The
private boxes are inclosed with gilt lattices : the
entrance to them is by a private house, part of the
property connected with the theatre, and they are
accommodated with a suite of retiring rooms. The
decorations are very splendid, particularly the ceil-
ing.
The Harmonic Society was instituted under the
patronage of Dr. Harrington ; and there is another
musical society, called the York House Catch Club.
The Sydney Garden Vauxhall, at the extremity
of Great Pulteney Street, abounds with groves,
vistas, lawns, serpentine walks, alcoves, bowling-
general meeting of the subscribers ; and that the said book be
deposited in (rust with the renters of the rooms, to be produced
at any time when a meeting of the subscribers to the dress balls
shall be assembled, or when three or more subscribers shall
desire to see the same.
" That not less than nine of the subscribers to the dress balls
be competent to call a general meeting upon any business rela-
tive to these rooms ; the said nine to leave a summons, signed
with their names, upon the table, for the space of one week
previous to such meeting ; which summons shall also express
the particular purpose for which such meeting is called, and
shall be published in the Bath papers.
" That the Master of the Ceremonies,- on receiving informa-
tion of any person's acting in opposition to-these resolutions, do
signify to such persons, that, as Master of the Ceremonies, it is
his duty to see the orders of the subscriber* properly enforced.
" As the late great extension of the city puts it out of the
power of the master of the ceremonies to be regularly informed
of the several persons who arrive here, he hopes they will be so
indulgent to him, as not to charge him with want of attention,
if he should happen to omit visiting tin-in ; and he thus publicly
requests, that they will, on their arrival, cause their names, with
their places of abode, to be inserted in a book kept at the Pump-
Room for that purpose, which will afford him such information
as will enable him to comply with his own wishes, and the ex-
pectations of the public.
" And as it is extremely desirable that all improper company
may be kept from these rooms, he requests also, that all
strangers, as well ladies as gentlemen, will give him an oppor-
tunity of being introduced to them, before they hold themselves
entitled to that attention and respect, which he is ambitious and
ever will be studious to shew to every individual resortins to this
place."
The terms of admission at the rooms, are a subscription of
half a guinea for the season, each gentleman, and five shillings
from each lady, for which they are entitled, at any proper
time, to walk and play at cards, excepting on Sundays ; and
on alternate Sundays they are also permitted to walk".' — The
routine of amusements consist of a dress-ball every Monday :
the subscription is one pound six shilling?, for which every sub-
scriber has two tickets, transferable to ladies only. Subscriber*
of twelve shillings receive one ticket, which is not transferable.
A fancy-ball every Thursday: the subscription twelve shillings ;
the ticket not transferable. Also nine subscription concerts,
and three choral nights at the New Rooms, in winter. A
subscriber of three guineas and a half is entitled to an admission
ticket for the twelve concerts, not transferable : and to two
tickets for each concert, transferable to ladies only. Subscribers
of smaller sums have adequate advantages; and for the accom-
modation of strangers, subscriptions are also received for part
of the concerts, on proportional terms. Non-subscribers to the
fancy balls pay five shillings, and to the concerts seven sbill ings
each time.
greens
SOMERSETSHIRE.
203
greens, Merlin swings, grottoes, and labyrinths. It
is known to have contained four thousand persons.
The amusements consist of public breakfasts, pro-
menades, illuminations, music, &c.
We cannot close our notice respecting this emi-
nent and interesting city, without remarking, that,
in addition to the numerous charities to which Her
late Majesty, Queen Charlotte, subscribed, none was
more conspicuous (though not generally known)
than tfie Institution formed at Bailbrook Lodge,
contiguous to Bath. The Queen was the imme-
diate patroness of this establishment, and not only
contributed very largely toward its support, but
displayed great anxiety concerning its future wel-
fare. The Institution at Bailbrook House is formed
after the German Chapitres and other Protestant
establishments on the continent. It offers a desirable
residence to ladies of respectable character, whose
birth places them in the rank of gentlewomen ; and
the plan is so arranged as to suit the circumstances
of those whose income is very moderate ; at the
same time it offers accommodation to others, who,
by residing in the establishment, contribute largely
towards its support ; but this circumstance occa-
sion;: no apparent inequality among the inmates,
for all are, in fact, equally independent of pecu-
niary obligation either to the public, or to each
other. The society live together as one family ; but
none are admitted who are averse to a retired life,
or who are unwilling to lend their- aid in promoting
•works of charity and benevolence. It is principally
intended for the reception of the widows and daugh-
ters of clergymen, and officers in the army and navy.
It is entirely under the auspices of ladies of the
highest rank, and a fund of several thousands has
been already secured, and placed out at interest. Her
Majesty, when lust at Bath, paid great attention to
the institution, minutely inspected every part of Bail-
brouk House, and expressed herself very anxiously
concerned, that there were not more establishments
formed of the same kind in England.
BATHEASTON.] — This village is situated on the
London road, 2 {- miles N. I'., from Bath. The upper
part contains the church, and amongst other hand-
some houses, one which was formerly the residence
of John Wood, Esq. the ingenious architect to whom
Bath owes many of its noblest buildings. The
church is antique: At the west end, it has a fine
square tower, one' hundred feet high. The inside
is remarkable for its neat and decent appearance.
A custom long observed at the Villa of Sir John
Millar, Bart, displays his elegance and refinement
in the choice of his amusements, as well as of his
visitors. He had purchased an antique vase, dis-
covered at Frescati, in Italy, in 1759 ; and, having
placed it in a room convenient for the purpose, he
consecrated it to Apollo, and ordained Lady Millar
high priestess. He then issued a general invitation
to all votaries of the nine, to assemble on a certain
day in each week, and oiler their poetical oblations
at the shrine ; the degree of merit each possessed,
was decided by the public voice, and the author of
the best was crowned with myrtle. A collation
succeeded. This attic pastime continued for some
years, till some witling contaminated the purity of
the urn by a licentious composition, and the vessel
was closed for ever. Two small volumes of these
effusions have been published.
BATHFORD.] — The parish of Bathford lies four
miles E.N. E. from Bath, on the London road. It
is pleasantly situated on the Avon. A fine eminence
rises near this place, called Hampton Cliffs, the
prospect from which is very picturesque. The
hamlet of Bhackerwick, containing not more than
eight or ten houses, is in the parish, A Roman
hypocaust was found in 1091, at Bathford ; and,
about the same time, two altars, and an urn filled
with coins ; at Warley, the capital of a pillar of
curious workmanship; and upon Hampton Down,
a Roman tumulus, and likewise some vestiges of a
camp.
BRENT, EAST.] — East Brent lies on the shores of
the Bristol channel, 4| miles W. S. W. from Ax-
bridge. It is very possible that it received its appel-
lation from the circumstance of its having been the
scene of some military contest, in which it was de-
stroyed by fire. The supposition is confirmed by
the appearance, in the vicinity, of an entrenchment,
where Roman coins and arms have been discovered.
Commanding an extensive view, it was important
as an alarm post, as well as a fortress of defence.
Alfred is said to have defended himself here, against
the Danes. The church is handsome, and finely
situated : its tower and spire are together 140 feet
in height. The lower part of the former has three
niches, the highest of which contains the effigies of
a king, embraced by another figure ; the middle
niche is adorned by another statue of a queen, and
the lowest by a male figure in royal robes. Several
of the windows exhibit fine specimen of stained
glass, chiefly on subjects out of the Holy Scripture.
BRENT, SOUTH.] — The manor of South Brent, six
miles S. W. by W. from Axbridge, belonged to
tlie abbots of Glastonbury ; at the Dissolution, it
became the property of the Duke of Somerset, and
was finally parcelled out among the tenants. The
old benches in the church exhibited a variety of
curious grotesque carvings. A handsome tower
adorns the west end.
BRIDGEWATER.] — This borough and market-town,
14 miles N. W. by N. from Somerton, and 137
W. by S. from London, is situated upon the river
Parret. Its name is supposed, by some, to be a
corruption of Burgh-Walter ; by others, to be a
compound of " Bridge" and " Water." It was first
constituted a free borough by King John; subse-
quent grants from Edward IV. and Henry VIII.
conferred additional privileges : the affairs of the
town are now managed by a mayor, recorder, two
aldermen, and twenty-four common-council men.
Two bailiffs are annually chosen from these last,
to act in the capacity of sheriffs. The most consi-
derable
*04
SOMERSETSHIRE.
.derable part of Bridgewater formerly stood on the
east side of the river ; at present, the principal
streets are on the opposite hank : the means of com-
inunication is an ancient bridge of three arches.
The castle, now reduced to a few ruins, was for-
tnerly a large structure, and <he government of it,
a post of great distinction. Such were its advan-
tages from nature and art, that in 1645, it was con-
sidered impregnable by the governor, Colonel
Wyndham, and defended by him for a considerable
time. The Castle-field was the place on which
Monmouth encamped after being proclaimed king,
at Taunton. Of the hospital, once a noble institu-
tion, only a small part is now seen, situated at a
short distance from the eastern gate. The tower of
Bridgewa/ei1 church is one of the loftiest in Eng-
land ; the alta'r-piece is a beautiful painting, repre-
senting our Saviour, his head reclining upon the
knee of his favourite disciple : the Virgin lies
swooning, her head supported by the wife of Cephas.
The attitudes of all the figures are finely expressive
of devotion and humility. Robert Blake, one of the
bravest and most fortunate English admirals, was
born in this town, in 1590.* — The freemen of Bridge-
water are free of all the ports of England and Ire-
land, London and Dublin excepted.
BRISLINGTON.] — This village, three miles S. E.
by E. from Bristol, is remarkable, on account of
Dr. Fox's celebrated asylum for lunatics. Here
the most deranged patients enjoy safely, free action,
fine air, an enchanting prospect, quiet, the luxury
of the bath, the society of their equals in rank, the
illusion of familiar intercourse, at every little inter-
val of convalescence ; and the comfort arising from
the due performance of religious duties. To effect
all these, an enormous expence has been incurred.
The buildings are situated in the centre of a fine
farm, completely isolated, yet commanding, from
many eminences, and particularly from the site of the
Institution, the most extensive and beautiful pros-
pects of the surrounding country. The buildings
-are. numerous enough, and so constructed as to
appear a sort of little village. These abodes of
insanity are contrived chiefly with a view to the
comfort of the patients, conjoined with the absence
of all means of self-destruction ; and the preserva-
tion of that equable tenor of existence so efficient
to the recovery of lost reason. Scarcely any wood
has been used in their construction, and the little
that has been admitted is removed from the action
* He received his college education at Wadham College,
Oxford. His political principles were decidedly republican,
and when the war broke out, he joined the parliamentary
forces. He distinguished himself in the defence of Bristol,
and the taking of Taunton, of which place he was appointed
governor, in 1644. When Charles was brought to trial, he
declared that he would venture his life to save that of the
monarch, as willingly as he had exposed it in the cause of
freedom. Blake began his naval career in 1649, being then in
his fiftieth year, and, during eight years of active service, he
almost ruined the maritime power of several nations at war with
England ; astonished the whole world by the magnitude of his
of fire. The roofs are flat, and covered with a sort
of fhunam that resists moisture as well as lead. The
principal patients inhabit the upper part of the
Doctor's own house, and are separated from the
family and from each other by light doors of iron
painted to resemble wood ; other doors open by
secret springs, known only to the persons whose
duty leads them there. This house has a court,
walled, with a mound in the centre, similar to six
other enclosures, appropriated to as many distinct
classes of patients ; for distinctions of rank are ob-
served in the association of the several communities,
and become merciful but effectual agents for the
preservation of necessary subordination. A means
of amusement has been devised for the patients, by
turning into every inclosure, rabbits, which have the
range of passages in the mount, and increase, in
security. All the offices usually attached to a large
establishment are found in this ; the Doctor's own
family inhabit the lower part of the principal build-
ing, near which is an elegant bathing-room, a capa-
cious laundry, a drying-yard, a kitchen and fruit-
garden, and a large bowling-green, used as a daily
promenade, by such as are orderly and obedient.
Violent maniacs are confined in a range of low
buildings which bound the courts, and which are
warmed by flues. Others, of both sexes, who have
lucid intervals, are employed in their several trades,
or other occupations of which they are capable ; and
people of education practise the various accomplish-
ments which they possess. The whole establishment
is, by arrangement, and systematic order, kept in a
state of tranquillity, that renders it doubtful to a
visitor whether this be indeed the wretched abode
of madness.
BRISTOL.] —The city and county of the city of
Bristol (anciently Brightstow) is situated at the
distance of 35 miles S. W. by S. from Gloucester,
and 113 W. from London. — According to some of
our antiquarian writers, this city was founded by
Brennus, the supposed first king of the Britons,
about three hundred and eighty years before the
Christian era ; an opinion which has derived some
support from the appearance of two ancient statues,
said to be those of Brennus, and his brother Belinus,
on the south side of St. John's gate. Gildas, a
British monk, of the sixth century, mentions Brito,
in his list of eminent British cities, in the year
430. Little mention, however, is made in history
of the present city, earlier than A.D. 10B3, when,
daring, and first inspired our seamen with that ardent enthu-
siasm which gives this country the empire of the ocean. His
pursuit and destruction of Prince Rupert's fleet ; the havoc he
made of the Portugueze and Spanish fleets ; his frequent, and
successful combats with the gallant Van Tromp ; the chastise-
ment he inflicted on the Dey of Tunis ; and, finally, his suc-
cessful attack of the forts of Santa Cruz, at Teneriffe, are too
generally known, to need a particular relation. He died in
the fifty-eighth year of his age, at the moment his fleet was
entering Plymouth harbour ; and was interred in Westminster
Abbey.
J , .>. •• ..-.- !:••'• • iu yj.ii
, J V .. • ' • . . -i r t i
Harold
SOMERSETSHIRE.
20=*
Harold set sail from "Bristow*," with a fleet, to
reduce Wales. — During the reigns of Harold and
the Conqueror, there were mints established at this
place ; and in 1696, William the Third struck half-
crowns here. In Olio's conspiracy of 1087, the
rebels made Bristol their head-quarters, appropri-
ating the castle there as the receptacle of their
plunder, which they amassed from the neighbour-
ing country, as far as Berkeley and Bath. — About
the close of the eleventh century, Bristol is men-
tioned as a place of considerable note for trade to
Ireland, and Norway, and every part of Europe.
It was, indeed, the great mart for slaves, collected
from all parts of England. — During the quarrel
between King Stephen, and the Empress Matilda,
Bristol, at one time, became the residence of that
lady.-— After the defeat of the royalists, in 1141, Ste-
phen was conveyed to Gloucester, and from thence
kept a close prisoner in Bristol. Bristol being
wholly in the possession of the Earl Robert Fitz-
harding, the empress's brother, the queen placed
her son there, to be educated amongst the sons of the
principal inhabitants. There he formed his attach-
ment to Robert Fitz-Harding, whom he afterwards
highly honoured. This Robert Fitz-Harding, in
1 148, laid the foundation of the Abbey of St. Au-
gustine, and built the church and offices attached
thereto, in the short time- of six years. In 1168,
when Dermot Mac Murrough, King of Leinster,
in Ireland, came over into England, to solicit suc-
cours from Henry the Second, Robert Fitz-Hard-
ing entertained him and his company, in the most
sumptuous manner, at Bristol. — Robert Fitz-Hard-
ing, with his wife, Eva, lies buried in the choir of
St. Augustine's Abbey, now the cathedral church of
Bristol. — During the reign of Henry the Second,
this city had become a great place of trade, parti-
cularly for commerce with Ireland ; and the bridge
was undoubtedly constructed in consequence of the
great influx of wealth and population which Bristol
had then acquired. The original bridge appears to
have been constructed of wood. During this reign,
the burgesses of Bristol had a grant of free toll, and
other customs, throughout England, Wales, and
Normandy ; and the king granted to it a full power
to inhabit and possess the city of Dublin, whither
a colony was accordingly sent. — The charter was re-
* The Britons called this place " Caer Oder Nant Badon,"
the city Oder in the vale of Badon, or " the other city in the
Tale of Badon." Baxter says, that " Caer Oder" signifies a
" frontier" city, and that Venta, which Piolomy places among
the Belgz, was Bristol : "Brightstow" being the Saxon word
to denote a " white" or a " fair" place. This word, Go«gh
observes, will signify " Britonum locus," synonymous, as Gale
imagined, with " Britodunum." Barret agrees with Horseley,
that tlie '• Antona," or " Anfona," fortified by Ostorius, was
the " Avona," written by Ravennas, "Abona," tlie name by
which the military works on Clifton, Leigh, and Durdham
Downs, were designated, evidently from their contiguity with
the river Avon. Antoninus describes a Roman station of this
name, between ' Aqux Solis,' (Bath) and the Severn, obiviously
ibe Castle of Clifton ; which is noticed by William of Wor-
TOLIV. — HO. 156.
newed in 1100. — Ifl 1216, the Pope's legate, Guelo,
held a synod at Bristol, at which he solemnly ex-
communicated those barons who had adhered to
Lewis, the French king's son ; and at a general
council of the barons, held at this place in Novem-
ber, the same year, the Earl of Pembroke was chosen
protector of the realm. — About the year 1247, the city
was joined to Redclift' by a bridge, the old wooden
one having been destroyed. The quay was made at
the joint expence of the citizens and the inhabitants
of Redcliff. The course of the river was then turned
by cutting a canal from Redcliff-beck to Tower Har-
ratz. The expence of cutting this channel, or trench,
for the course of the Frome through the quay, amount-
ed to five thousand pounds. The bridge, built at the
time just mentioned, was of stone, and had Louses
on both sides, with a chapel in the form of a gate-
way, across the centre. The chapel was destroyed in
1644 ; and at length the bridge itself having become
dangerous, no heavy laden carriages were permitted
to pass over it. In 1768 a new one was finished and
opened. In 1263, Prince Edward was taken pri-
soner, in parley with Simon de Mountford, Earl of
Leicester, at Windsor, and was kept a prisoner
in Bristol Castle ; but two years afterwards, this
prince took the castle from the barons, and fined the
town in the sum of one thousand pounds. — In 1283
Edward I. held a parliament in this city ; and then,
for the first time, a writ was issued to the mayor and
magistrates of Bristol to send two persons as repre-
sentatives.— In 1326, during the rebellion of Queen
Isabella, Edward was pursued to Bristol, by the
Earl of Kent, seconded by the foreign forces under
John de Hainault. The elder Hugh Spencer, created
Earl of Winchester, was at this time governor of the
castle of Bristol ; but the garrison mutinied against
him, and he fell into the hands of his enemies. He was
immediately, on the surrender of the town, which he
had besieged, without any formal accusation, and
without even the shadow of n trial, condemned to be
hung in his armour, in his 90th year, even in the
presence of his own son. His body, having been
suspended on a gibbet four days, was taken down,
cut in pieces, and thrown to the dogs, and his head
was set on a pole at Winchester. — William de Col-
ford, recorder of Bristol, in 13i5, drew up a code
of municipal laws ; and the corporation agreed on
tester, parish-priest of St. James's, Bristol. — After the name of
" Caer Oder" had been dropped, this place came to be called
" Bristow," partly from "Caer Brito," the British city. The
Sarons added the word " stow," a " place," to the ancient
name Brito ; hence it was long called " Brytstow," whence it
was latinized into " Bristolia," or " Bristolium." Gough says :
"Aylward Meau, or Smew, founder of Cranborn Abbey, or
his grandson, Brictric, lord of Bristol, before the conquest, was
lord of Bristol, in the tenth century ; and from him, it is more
than probable, that tlie name of " Brictow" was derived : for
in some Latin rhymes, taken from the Chronicle of TewkesburyJ
Brictanus, which is the same with Brictric, says of himself,
' Bristow construct!, ' i. e. ' 1 built a church at Bristow, as welV
as at Tewkesbury.' "
11 4
8 F several
206
SOMERSETSHIRE.
several useful regulations, which were afterwards
confirmed in a charter granted by Edward the Third.
In 1347, Edward the Third, by charter, constituted
Bristol a county within itself. — During the reign of
Richard the Second, when Henry, Duke of Lan-
caster, landed in England, and became master of
the kingdom, he proceeded to Bristol ; and, haviug
obliged it to surrender, he seized, in the castle, the
Earl of Wiltshire, Sir John Bussy, and Sir Henry
Green, and had them instantly beheaded. In the
ensuing reign, Bristol took part in the royal cause,
and beheaded, without trial, the Lords Spencer and
Lumley, two principal conspirators against Henry.
In the year 1400, th« streets of Bristol were newly
paved, and Henry the Seventh, and the lord chan-
cellor, kept the royal court at St. Augustine's-place ;
on which occasion, it is said, that the citizens, willing
to shew a due respect to their king, arrayed them-
selves in their best apparel ; but the monarch re-
marking that some1 of the ladies were dressed, as he
conceived, much above their station, ordered that
every citizen, possessing lands to the amount of
twenty pounds; should pay twenty shillings for the
sumptuous dress of his wife. Henry, in 1500, grant-
ed a new charter to the corporation, and presented
his own sword to the mayor, to be borne before him.
This sword is still preserved. — Henry the Eighth, by
letters patent, made this place a city, and a bishop's
see, at the same time that he conferred a similar
honour on the towns of Westminster, Oxford, Peter-
borough, Chester, and Gloucester. In the twenty-
fonrtti of Elizabeth, a new charter was granted.
The queen paid a visit to Bristol ; and a room be-
longing to a house in Small-street, is still denomi-
nated Queen Elizabeth's room. Another charier
was granted by Charles the First, in which, for the
sum of 059/. the castle and its precincts were finally
separated from the county of Gloucester, and made
part of the city and independent jurisdiction of
Bristol.
In 1641, Denzilllollis, who commanded the Bris-
tol militia, was one of the most active men in the
presbyterian party, in opposition to Cromwell and
the independents; yet he subscribed one thousand
pounds against the king. He was one of the five
members of the long parliament, who were demand-
ed by Charles when he went to the House of Com-
mons ; and in 1640, was sent up to the lords, with
an impeachment against Archbishop Laud. In 1642,
the parliament strengthened and repaired the walls
and castle, and forts were erected at Brandon and
St. Michael's Hill, now the Royal Fort. The year
following, Prince Rupert resolved to lay siege to
the city. A severe conflict ensued, and great loss
was sustained, when, to the great joy of the army,
the city beat a parley. The siege lasted three days,
and the garrison was to march out with their arms
and baggage, leaving their cannon, ammunition, and
colours. — In the assault, the royalists suffered very
severely. Five hundred of the best soldiers perish-
ed, besides several persons of condition. On the
second of August following, the king joined the
camp of Bristol ; and on the Sunday he attended
divine service at ihe cathedral church. Two years
afterwards, Bristol once more fell into the hands of
the parliamentarians. The king never recovered his
affairs ; and Cromwell, when he was made lord pro-
tector, ordered the castle to be demolished, and
streets have since been built on its site. In 1650,
the parliament gave orders to build the walls about
the royal fort, and gave 1000/. towards defraying
| the expence of that measure.
In the year 1663, the king and queen, James,
Duke of York, his duchess, &c. were magnificently
entertained at Bristol, by the mayor. In 1684,
Charles granted a new charter, in which he con-
firmed the letters patent, by which this city was
made a city and county of itself. — During Mou-
mouth's rebellion, in 1685, Bristol was, at one time,
thrown into great alarm. It was reported, that the
duke was approaching, from Tauuton and Wells.
The Duke of Beaufort, then lord-lieutenant of the
city, declared, that if the citizens shewed any dispo-
sition towards insurrection, he would immediately
set fire to the town. On this determination, Mon-
mouth is reported to have said, " God forbid that
I should bring the two calamities of fire and sword
on so noble a city ;" and then marched towards
Bath. — In 1702 Queen Ann visited Bristol, in com-
pany with the Prince of Denmark, and was enter-
tained in a splendid manner ; and in 1710, her
majesty paid another visit, and renewed all former
charters. The charter, by which their corporation
liberties were confirmed and enlarged, ordains,
" that Bristol remains for ever a city corporate, and
county of itself; and that its magistrates hold govern-
ment over all its boundaries, by land and water ;
that the body corporate be known and distinguished
as the mayor, burgesses, and commonalty of the
city of Bristol ; that the recorder shall be the first
alderman, with the others, making twelve, accord-
ing to the number of wards ; that two sheriffs be
chosen annually out of the common council, whicli
are to consist of forty-two persons, besides the
mayor:" in short, this charter fully confirms every
useful regulation, and every important branch oi
municipal right conferred on the city and corpora-
tion by former monarchs.
The city of Bristol is about eight miles from the
mouth of the Avon, where it discharges itself into
the Bristol channel, or, as it is sometimes called,
the Severn Sea. The old town, now in the heart
of the city, stands upon a narrow hill, in a valley,
and is bounded by the Avon on the south, the Frome
on the north and west, and by a deej> moat of the
castle, on the east. The whole city stands on several
rising grounds; of which St. Michael's Hill and
Kingsdcwn are the highest ; their summits being
at least 200 feet higher than any other part. — The
city boundaries, by land, on the Gloucestershire
side of the Avon, include nearly five miles : and
the northern, almost three miles : the liberties occu-
pying
SOMERSETSHIRE.
207
pying * circumference of upwards of seven miles,
though the boundaries of the whole town include
many streets and houses within the jurisdiction and
covernment of the county of Gloucester. — As a place
of trade and commerce, Bristol is, perhaps, second
only to London. The ATOB is mow navigable for
vessels of the largest burthen, which ride in perfect
safety in deep water. The vicinity of the Serera,
and the centrical situation of the town, give it a
facility of communication of which few other cities
can boast.
The Cathedral, situated on College-green, was
originally the collegiate church of the monastery of
St. Augustine, founded by Robert Fitz -Harding,
as before-mentioned, about 1460, as a priory of Black
Canons. The respective dimensions of this cathe-
dral are as follow : length, from east to west, 175 1
feet, whereof the choir includes 100 ; the body and
side aisles are 73 feet in breadth ; the chapter-bouse, I
46 in length, and 26 in breadth ; and the tower 127 .
feet high. The cloisters were originally 103 feet <
square ; but they are partly destroyed. The total
dimensions are 175 — 128. This church displays two '
distinct species of architecture, both beautiful ; the
Eider Lady's Chapel and Chapter House, are semi, .
or mixed Norman, while the nave and choir are pure
Gothic. The windows are of painted glass. On I
the north side of the arched gateway, leading from j
toe upper to the lower green, are four statues : a
kiog, a knight, and two religious ; there are also
statues of Henry the Second, and the two abbots,
Newland and Eliot. On the south side are two other
statues of ecclesiastics. Above are the Virgin and
Child, and a statue, probably of St. Augustine. The
ioside is richly ornamented with Saxon interlaced
arches. — The cathedral, as it now stands, consists
of the cross of the old church, the tower, crowned
with battlements and four pinnacles, and all the rest
of the old church eastward. The abutments are of
amazing strength, and project many feet from the
walls. From the door to the church pavement is a
descent by eight steps. In the body of the church ,
stands a stone pulpit, decorated with the arms of I
his majesty, the Prince of Wales, the arms of the •
bishopric, those of the city, also those of the Berkeley
family, and Bishop Wright's, by whom it was given to
the church. In pannelled niches of the screen, before
the choir, are paintings of the twelve minor prophets.
This screen has, also, a fine Gothic gateway, with
the royal arms of Henry the Eighth and Prince
Edward over it. The altar has an emblematic paint-
ing of the triune Deity ; being a triangle in a circle,
surrounded by cherubs, done by Vausomeren. The
windows at each end of the side aisles are said to
have been presented by the celebrated Nell G wynii.
The great east window is of ancient stained glass,
and the side aisle window of enamelled glass, repre-
senting various subjects in scripture history. — On j
the western side is an elegant monument, in the form I
of a Gothic arch, of Sienna marble, to Mrs. Draper, j
Sterne's correspondent, Eliza. — In the north aisle I
it a monument to Mrs. Mason, wife of the laic Rev.
William Mason, the poet. — At a little distance, is the
tomb of Mr. William Powell, an actor of considerable
merit, who died at Bristol, in 1769.— In the chancel
is a monument to the memory of Dr. Nathaniel
Forster, author of many works of merit ; particularly
Biblia Hebraic*, sine Punctis. — In the chapel, to the
west end of the southern aisle, are sever.il mono-
meats belonging to the Newton family ; and OB one
of the pillars in the Elder Lady's Chapel is a device
of a ran, playing on a violin with a very long bow,
and a shepherd sleeping while a wolf is devouring
the sheep. — la the north aisle wall is a knight under
a singular arch, of which there are some others about
the church, called Monks' Cowb. When this arch
was opened, some years ago, on lifting the lid of the
coffin, the body of the knight was found wrapped
in a bag of horse-hair, inclosed in leather.
The present bishop's palace was the abbot's lodg-
ings, which were almost rebuilt by Bishop Butler,
in the year 1744.
The ancient monastery was changed into a cathe-
dral, and dedicated to the " holy and undivided
Trinity." The foundation consisted of a bishop,
dean, six prebendaries, one archdeacon, six ir.iuor
canons, a deacon and sub-deacon, six lay clerks, six
choristers, two grammar school-roasters, and four
alms-men, who were endowed with the site, church,
and most of the lands of the monastery. The diocese
was taken out of Salisbury, part of Gloucestershire,
from that of Worcester, and three churches from that
of Wells.
The church of St. Mary, Redcliff, "justly tl»e
pride, because it is the chief architectural beauty, of
Bristol,'' stands without the city wall* : the accent
to it is by a noble flight of steps, and the whola
building exhibits one of the finest specimens of orna-
mented Gothic architecture this county can Lo.ist.
It was built of stone, dug out of Dundry Hill quar-
ries. It was begun in 1294, by Simon de Burton,
mayor of Bristol, and was uot complete:! till 1376.
The steeple was partly thrown down by lightning,
at St. Paul's-tide, in 1445 ; at which time tue roof,
part of the nave, and particularly the southern aisle,
were much damaged. This last part was rebuilt by
the grandson of William Canynge, or Canning. The
spire was not rebuilt, but covered in. It was recently,
however, in contemplation, (o complete this spire,
and to construct a magnificent cenotaph to the me-
mory of the unfortunate Cbatterton. The churelt
is in the form of a cross, having the nave raised
above the aisles, in the manner of a cathedral. The
roof, which is nearly sixty feet high, is arched with
stone, and abounds with numerous beautifully carved
devices and ornaments. The length of the church,
from the western end to the high altar, is one hun-
dred and seventy-eight feet. The western door,
which is eight feet broad and twelve high, is the
principal entrance : there are also two porches on-
the northern ami southern sides of the church. The
internal appearance of the northern porch is singu-
» larly.
208
SOMERSETSHIRE.
larly beautiful. It consists of two divisions : tbe .
lower of a highly decorated Norman style, in a very
perfect state of preservation : the upper story re-
presents tabernacles, statues, &c. with various coats
of arms.— On entering this church, the lightness and
exquisite symmetry of the whole fill the mirtd with
the most pleasing admiration. The altar-piece^ by
Hogarth, has been reckoned his ' chef d'ceuvre, in
a style of painting for which certainly his genius was
not formed. It represents the rolling away the stone
from the holy sepulchre. Tresham's picture of Christ
raising the daughter of Jarius to life, was presented
to the church by Sir Clifton Winterbottom, Bart, the
artist's uncle.
In the chapel in the south cross, are two tombs ot
the founder of the church, William Canning, and
bis wife, Joan. Their effigies, in full proportion,
are extended on an altar-tomb, under a richly carved
<5anopy of free-stone. William Canning took priest s
orders to avoid a second marriage, and became dean
of Westbury : he has, therefore, a second monument,
representing him in his dean's canonicals. The first
describes him in his magistratial robes, having been
mayor of Bristol five times.— Here is also a monu-
ment of Sir William Penn, Knt. father of the cele-
brated Penn, the quaker, proprietor of Pennsyl-
vania, and founder of the city of Philadelphia.— It
was in the muniment room over the northern porch,
that Chatterton found, or pretended to have found,
those singular poems which so long excited conten-
tion in the literary world.
Temple Church, originally called Holy Cross, is
chiefly remarkable for its tower, which leans towards
the street, like that at Bologna. This tower is
many degrees out of the perpendicular; Mr. Gough
says, five or six feet; and Camden asserts, that
when the bells are rung, it moves " hue et illuc"
this way and that, displaying a chink three fingers
broad, regularly opening and closing.* It is 114
feet high, and contains a peal of eight bells. There
is generally some exaggeration used in describing
its motion ; but it is true that the inclination is great,
and that the vacillation, even in the belfry, is sufficient
to produce an opening that will admit a thin shilling
between the stones.
St. Stephen's Church is much admired for its
tower, built in the reign of Henry the Sixth. The
pulpit and pews are of mahogany.
All Saints' has a resemblance, in its steeple, to
St. Mary-le-Bow, in Cheapside, London. It con-
tains several monuments, the most interesting of
which is that to the memory of Edward Colston,
Esq. The effigies is a recumbent marble figure, by
John Michael Rysbraeck : over it is an inscription,
recording the virtues of the deceased, by enume-
rating most of the principal public benefactions for
which Mr. Colston was so long and so -eminently
known. t
Christ Church is in the centre of the city, near the
site of a very old church, dates reporting which have
been found so early as 1003, or 1004. The old struc-
ture was taken down, in 1786, to widen Wine-street.
The present church, opened in 1700, is built office-
stone, and consists of a handsome tower on the stage,
above the church, with sixteen Ionic pilasters sup-
porting four pediments. The stage above this, con-
taining ten bells, has, on each side, ten Corinthian
pilasters, and at each corner of the tower & large
vase. On the top is an obelisk of seventy feet, on
which are elevated a ball and gilded dragon. The
entire height of the steeple is 160 feet. The follow-
ing punning epitaph was on a stone, in the old
edifice : —
" Here lieth Tho. Turar, and Mary, his wife : he was
twice master of the company of bakers, and twice
churchwarden of this parish. He died March 6th,
1654. She died May 8th, 1643.
Like to the baker's oven, is the grave.
Wherein the bod yes of the faithful have
A setting in, and where they do remain,
In hopes to rise, and to be drawn again :
Blessed are they, who in the Lord are dead.
Though set like dough, they shall be drawn like bread.
St. Mark's Church, on College Green, is called
the Mayor's Chapel, because the corporation usu-
! ally attended divine worship there. It stands nearly
! north and south. It was founded about 1230, and
! contains several monuments. The altar-piece, by
| Hogarth, cost 500/.
St. Paul's Church, a new stone building, in the
ancient style, was opened in 1794. The tower, which
somewhat resembles the steeple of the Royal Ex-
* The church of Holy Cross, " says Brown," has a very
high and elegant tower, that I may venture to compare in
thickness and height, with that of St. Martin the Less, at
Cologne. When the bells in it are ringing, it vibrates so
much, that at length, by the too great and frequent shaking, it
has separated from the body of the church, and opened, from the
roof to the foundation, with the space four fingers breadth. Abr.
Ortelius wrote me word, that he had put a stone, of the size
of a goose egg, into this chink, which he actually saw descend,
as the space was narrow or wide, and at last, by frequent colli-
sion, squeezed to pieces ; and, when he set his back at the
east tower, he was afraid it would fall on him. The mayor, and
other reputable persons assured him the whole church shook,
and was like to fall before this chink was made ; and with such
force that the lamps were put out, and the oil spilled, as many
persons living could attest; but the church being no longer
affected by the sound of the bells, remains unmoved."
f He was bom in Temple parish, November 2, 1636, and
was brought up to trade under his father, an eminent Spanish
merchant, usually styled Deputy Colston, to whose memory
there is also a monument, in this church. He resided some time
in Spain, as did also his brothers, where two of them were mur-
dered. There is a tradition, that when Mr. Colston and hi*
brothers were in Spain, in their disputes with the papists, it was
often objected to them, that the reformed religion produced no
examples of great and charitable benefactions ; to which they
were wont to reply, that if it pleased God to bring them sate
home, they would wipe off that aspersion. Mr. Colston died
j on the anniversary of his birth-day, in 172) ; and a sermon is
annually preached in honour of his memory;
change,
SOMERSETSHIRE.
change, London, is 169 feet high. In the .year
1810 a monument was erected in this church, to the
memory of Colonel Vassal, whose remains were
brought hither from South America.
St. Peter's, founded before the year 1130, has
lost much of its antique appearance, by being often
repaired. It is chiefly remarkable as the burying-
jdace of the unfortunate and licentious Savage, the
poet, who was confined at Bristol for a trilling.
debt, died in prison, and was buried at the expence
of the gaoler.
Bristol has, altogether, 18 churches and chapels
of the establishment ; about 18 or 20 dissenting
chapels and meeting-houses ; a Jews' synagogue,
a Roman Catholic chapel, &c. The quakers are
very numerous. — The Charitable Foundations and
Public Schools of Bristol are also very numerous.
— St. Peter's Hospital is for the reception of the
poor citizens in general, including superannuated
persons, orphans, and idiots. The Infirmary, an ex-
tensive and increasing establishment, is the principal
infirmary for the west of England. There is an
Asylum for Orphan Girls, at Hook's Mills. Mer-
chants' Hospital is for nineteen seamen, and twelve
seamen's widows ; each receiving three shillings
weekly ; the elder brother five. The principal alms-
houses are Colston's, built in 1691, St. Nicholas's,
Forster's, Alderman Stephens's, Strange's, All
Saints, Presbyterian, Spencer's, and Redcliffe Hill.
There are also nearly twenty hospitals and poor-
houses, supporting about 2000 poor. The Bristol
Blind Asylum is very liberally supported. The
blind pupils are employed in various branches of
manufacture. — A Lancasterian School was opened
in 1808, and is in a flourishing state. The Sama-
ritan Society was established in 1807, to relieve
patients dismissed from public institutions, &c. The
Grateful Society, an establishment of several years'
standing, has put out apprentice about 200 boys,
with ten pounds each, and relieved nearly 4000
lying-in women. The Anchor Society is of a similar
description.
The City Library, in King Street, has a good
and increasing collection of books : there is a libra-
rian and a sub-librarian. The late Rev. Mr. Cat-
cott, vicar of Temple, bequeathed his museum, con-
taining minerals, fossils, &c. with a number of valu-
able books, to this library, when a new wing was
added to the building. — The City Grammar-School,
for the instruction of the sons of citizens in Latin
and Greek, supports two masters. The endowed
College Gramniiir-School, in Lower College Green,
was founded by Henry the Eighth, at the time Bris-
tol was raised to an episcopal see. Queen Elizabeth's
Grammar-School has a statue of the royal donor in
the school-house. There are 10 or 12 other public
schools, or charitable foundations. The Baptist
Education Society, where young men are educated
for the ministry, is a valuable institution, and has
been enriched by several legacies, particularly by
the library of Dr. Llewellyn, and that of Dr
VOL. iv. — NO. 150.
Andrew Giflbrd. The museum belonging to this
institution contains some natural and artificial curi-
osities, particularly a collection of Hindoo images,
formerly objects of adoration.
The Guildhall, a curious old structure, in Broad
Street, has a modern front, bearing the arms ot
Edward the First. The Council House, a stone
building, erected in 1703, is much too small for the
purposes for which it was built. The mayor and
aldermen sit here daily to administer justice. The
Custom House is a good brick building, with a
colonade of free-stone pillars, having Ionic capitals
in front : the chief room is about seventy feet in
length. The Excise Office is also a brick building,
near the Custom House. The Post Office is of
free-stone, near the Exchange : it was built by Mr.
Wood, of Bath, and is said to have cost 50.000A
It was opened in 1743; and measures 110 feet ia
front, and 148 in depth. — The Merchants' Hall is a
modern free-stone building, erected in 1701 ; but
it has since been almost rebuilt, with great improve-
ments. It is seventy feet in length ; and, having
an orchestra, it is frequently let out for public enter-
tainments.—Under St. John's Gate, at the bottom
of Small Street, the corporation, a few years ago,
erected a eapacious arch, for the accommodation of
foot passengers. — Newgate is the city prison for
felons and debtors. Bridewell is the prison for the
confinement and correction of offenders ; and Law-
ford's Gate, is for the reception of those who have
been guilty of misdemeanors without the liberties of
the city, &c.
In Queen's Square, is an equestrian statue of
William the Third, said to be one of the finest pieces
of sculpture of the kind in the kingdom. It is by
Rysbrech. A fine statue of his present Majesty
was completed in the year 1810, in the centre of
Portland Square. The first stone was laid on the
twenty-fifth of October, 1809. On the front of the
pedestal, is the following, inscription : —
" George III. the Father of his People, having on
the 25th October 1809, through the favour of Divine
Providence, attained the 50th year of his reign, to
commemorate that happy event, and in testimony of
their gratitude forthe blessings enjoyed under the mild
government of the best of kings, the loyal inhabitants
of St. Paul's parish erected this statue, 'A.D. 1810."
Bristol castle itself, exclusive of the outworks,
was 540 feet, from east to west, and 300 from north
to south. The principal building occupied an area
of nearly four acres, exclusive of houses, barracks,
gardens, courts, yards, &c. The remains of these
buildings are almost lost. On the eastern side, io
Tower Street, still exist some arches, with ribbed
roofs of stone.
Bristol Bridge is an elegant structure of three
arches, with a balustrade on each side, about seven
feet high, with raised foot-paths chained in. It was
re-built, in 1768. — About 18 years ago, a plan was
suggested for the improvement of the harbour, for
erecting iron bridges across the Avon, and form-
3 a ing
210
SOMERSETSHIRE.
ing a New Cut. In this undertaking, the sum of
500,000/. was soon expended. The foundations of
two iron bridges, across the harbour, were laid
(one on the Exeter, the other on the London road);
but, unfortunately, in January, 1806, the iron ribs
of the latter gave way, after considerable progress
had been made, but they were soon repaired ;
and in 1809 the docks were completed, and now
form the most extensive works of the kind in
Europe, the float being two miles and a half in
length, and covering eighty-two acres of ground.
At all hours of the day, ships can now pass from
the Dun-head to the quays of the city, and discharge
their cargoes into warehouses, while afloat. The
iron bridge, which extends from Clifton Down, near
the old windmill, to Leigh Down, has an arch of
about 200 feet in height, and will admit ships of any
magnitude to sail underneath, full rigged. — A plan
having been suggested, for a large and commodious
commercial coffee-room, a subscription, amounting
to 10,000/. was soon filled up ; and on the 19th of
March, 1810, was laid the first stone, by George
Dyer, Esq. The architect was C. A. Busby, Esq.
of London. This beautiful building stands in Corn
Street. It has a free-stone front, in the centre of
•which it has a beautiful portico, of the Ionic order ;
the acrota of the pediment surmounted by a statue
representing the city of Bristol, and having on the
right and left emblematical figures of Navigation
and Commerce ; and over the .entrance doors a
basso-relievo, describing Neptune introducing the
four quarters of the world to Britannia.
In beholding Bristol at some distance, the exer-
tions of trade and commerce are instantly apparent.
From twenty to thirty sugar- houses, with sulphur,
turpentine, vitriol, and coal-works ; brass and iron
founderies, distilleries, glass-houses, &c. are con-
stantly at work. Its immense foreign trade is
carried on to every part of the known world. All
persons are free to trade here, and the freedom of
the city may be purchased at a very moderate rate.
The annual amount of customs exceeds 300,000/.
and the excise more than 100, OOO/. The post-
office revenue is above 15,000/. and the land-tax
8000/. — Here are thirteen city companies, some of
which have halls. — The mayor is allowed from
* He was born on the twentieth of November, 1752, in Pile
Street. At a very early age he was returned from school, "too
dull to learn !" In 1760, hi- was admitted into Colston's charity
school. In 1767, he was placed with Mr. Lambert, an attor-
ney. Some years before this, he is reported to have written
many good poems, and specimens have been published of lines
written when he was only eleven years old, particularly a hymn
for Christinas Day, remarkable for its just harmony and ease
of expression. At an early period, he acquired .:n enthusiastic
admiration of antiquarian and heraldic researches. In 1768, he
published, in Farley's Biistol Journal, a " Description of the
Frvars passing over the Old Bridge, taken from an ancient
manuscript." This singular production excited great attention.
The contributor was soon found, and threats and persecutions
were used to induce him to say by what means j>e had acquired
the original. He gave evasive, and impertinent answers. At
the city chamber 10007. and the two sheriffs 4207.
each. There is a curious fact connected with the
parliamentary representation of this city : the free-
men are such by birth, freehold, servitude, purchase,
donation, or " by marrying a freeman's daughter."
This last singular privilege, it is said, was granted
by Queen Elizabeth, as an encouragement of matri-
mony.
. The Theatre, in King Street, is a model of ele-
gance and convenience. Garrick is said to have
pronounced it the most complete theatre, of equal
dimensions, in Europe. It was opened in May,
1766. — The Assembly-room, in Princess Street, is
a good building, with a free-stone front on a rustic
basement, which supports four double Corinthian
columns, and a pediment : on the frize is inscribed
" Curas Cithera tollit" — Music dispels care.
In the year 1816, a printer of Bristol published
an arranged directory of the city, in which each
trade is classed, and the private families arranged
alphabetically ; conveying a clear view of the state
of society. Thus we see the increase of the employ-
ment of public accountants, of whom there are 25 ;
we measure conveyancing and the spirit of litigation
in 81 attorneys and 6 barristers at law ; the extent
of commercial dealings, in the extraordinary num-
ber of 13 banking-houses ; literary patronage, in
the support of 26 book-selling and 21 printing esta-
blishments, besides reading-rooms ; love of the fine
arts, in 9 painters and 4 statuaries ; and encourage-
ment of education, in 125 schools of various kinds.
Of traders and professional persons, there appear
to be altogether about 5000 ; and of private families
about 2200. There is also a gas-light company.
Amongsf the numerous distinguished individuals,
to whom Bristol has had the honour of giving birth,
may be mentioned William Grocyne, Greek pro-
fessor at Oxford, the intimate friend of Erasmus,
and godfather to Lilly, the grammarian, born in
1442 ; William Botoner, author of " Polyandria
Oxouiensis-," from which Anthony a Wood seems
to have taken the idea of his celebrated book on
the learned men at Oxford ; Sir William Draper,
well known lor- his controversy with Junius, in de-
fence of the Marquiss of Granby ; Thomas Chat-
terton, the unfortunate poet ;* Mrs. Mary Robinson,
the
length, he said that lie had received the paper, with some
others, from his father, then dead, who found them in some old
trunks, which had long been in the muniment room over the
northern porch of St. Mary's church, Kedcliffe. This account
received some confirmation, from the circumslanceof his father's
having been many years sexton of that church, and that, being
a schoolmaster, he had be<'n known to use several pieces of old
parchment, as covers to his school-books. Chatterton said,
they were taken from Canygne's chest, and that they were the
productions of Thomas Rowley, a monk, and others, in the
fifteenth century. — The poem just mentioned was followed by
ethers of a similar description, sufficient, in quantity, to fill an
octavo volume, These productions procured him tin- notice
of several persons of respectability and literature. Mr.Uatcott,
aulhoi of a Treatise on the Deluge, and aUo.of a Descriptive
Account of Pen Park Hole, in Gloucestershire, introduced
him
SOMERSETSHIRE.
211
the English Sappho,* as she has been not unaptly
styled ; Mrs. AnnYearsley,t the well-known poetical
milk-woman ; James Dawes Worgau ;J William
Barrett ;§ Sebastian Cabot, || the first discoverer of
the continent of America ; Dr. Caleb Evans,^ &c. —
Mrs. Hannah More ; Southey, the leaureat ; and
Cottle, the poet, are also natives of Bristol.
BRUTON.]— Bruton, U-| miles N. E. by K. from
Somerton, and 111 W. by S. from London, is a
small, but well-built town, situated on the river
Bru, and considerable for its manufacture of stock-
ings. It was formerly the seat of Sir Maurice
Berkeley, whose son distinguished himself so much
during the civil wars, by ins ardent attachment to
the royal cause. The church, which is antique,
once belonged to an abbey of Black canons, founded
in 1142. The tomb of Abbot Gilbert, by whom it
was partly rebuilt, before the Dissolution, still re-
mains in the north-west corner. The church has
two quadrangular towers, one at the west end, and
the other rising from one side of the north aisle ;
him to Mr. Barrett, at I hat time engaged in collecting materials
for his History of Bristol. These gentlemen implanted, or
nurtured, in his bosom, those seeds of ambition, and that enthu-
siastic thirst for literary fame, which ultimately proved his de-
struction. Disgusted with his profession, and panting for great-
ness, he left Bristol in 1770, and came to London ; where, as
a periodical writer, on one subject or other, he had sufficient
employ ; but his remuneration fell much short of his expences.
— Before he left Bristol, lie had made an effort to procure the
patronage of the Hon. Horace Walpole, who referred the
inspection of Chatterton's packet of MSS. to Mr. Gray and
Mr. Mason; and those gentlemen immediately pronounced
Rosv ley's Poems to be mere forgeries. On this unpleasant
information being communicated to Chatterton, he wrole an
impatient letter to Walpole, demanding the return of his MSS.
which being complied with, the correspondence for ever ceased,
and the hopes of the unhappy youth were blasted. Stung with
disappointment, and pride, attended by abject want and poverty,
in a Ift of despair, he put a period to his existence by poison,
at his lodgings in Brook Street, Holborn, in the eighteenth
year of his age. — The controversy respecting the authenticity
of Rowley's Poems is now pretty well set at rest, and the honour
of these compositions is generally given, though, we think incor-
rectly, to the unfortunate Chatterton.
* Vide MODERN PANORAMA, Vol. I. page 105.
f Her talents were first discovered by Mrs. Hannah More,
who solicited for her the protection of Mrs. Montagu, in a
letter prefixed to her poems, published in quarto, in 1785. Two
years after this, Mrs. Yearsley published a second collection of
her poems, and afterwards a poem on the " Inhumanity of the
Slave Trade," " Stanzas of Woe," " Earl Godwin, an historical
play, performed at Bristol," and " The Royal Captives," a
novel, in four volume*. After having experienced considerable
encouragement from the public, she injured her popularity by
a quarrel with her original patroness, which for some time, was
carried on with much acrimony on boll1, sides. Forsometime,
die kept the circulating library at the Colonade, near the Hot-
wells, and died at Melksham, Wiltshire, in the year 1806.
J He was the son of a watchmaker in this city, and was sent
to a commercial school, whence he was recalled to assist in his
father's business. On the death of his father, he became desirous
to pursue such classical studies as might qualify him for the
Christian ministry in the church, for which he had imbibed a
strong inclination. By the kindness of the Rev. J. T. liiddulph,
he was sent to the school of the Rev. Samuel Sever. In one
year and a half he passed through the usual courses of Latin and
Greek, besides devoting some portion of his time to the study
the former is finished in the most elaborate style of
Gothic architecture, and ornamented with elegant
pinnacles. An ancient hexagonal cross, supported
by pillars, and elegantly adorned with fine sculp-
ture, stands in the market place. — Here is an ex-
cellent hospital, built by the trustees of Hugh Saxey,
said to have been once waiter at an inn here. It is
for the support of a certain number of men, women,
and boys ; the latter are boarded with the master,
who receives four shillings and sixpence per week
with each, and the same sum for the maintenance of
each adult. Within this parish lies the romantic
hamlet, called Disheove, where, in 1711, the remains
of a Roman tesselated pavement were discovered.
The Priory of Stavordale, situated in the vicinity of
Bruton, is now converted into a farm-house and
barn. The latter was formerly the chapph, and still
retains some evidences of the sacred purposes to>
which it has been applied.
CADBURY, NORTH.] — North Cadbury is a consi-
derable parish, situated on an .eminence, 3| miles
of Hebrew. He soon acquired a knowledge of French and
Italian ; but, in 1807, all his prospects of literary eminence were
blasted, by a typhus fever, from the effects of which lie never
recovered. He had also formed an attachment which could
not be encouraged or gratified ; and his disappointment preyed
on his heart, and brought on an aggravated train of consumptive
symptoms, which at length ended in dissolution, on the twenty-
fourth of July, 1809, at the age of nineteen. His Poems and
Essays, with some particulars of his Life and Ciiaracter, by an
early Friend and Associate ; and a Preface, by Mr. Hayley,
were published in a small volume, in 1810.
§ This gentleman, if not a native of Bristol, was certainly-
born in this county. He practised, with much credit and re-
spect, as a surgeon ; but is chietly known as the topographer
of Bristol, and as the friend and patron of Chatterton. He
employed above twenty years in the compilation of his elaborate
History ; and the work was published in one volume, quarto,
in the year 1789. It is a dry, uninteresting book, abounding
with useless, and often unintelligible documents; yet it contains
a variety of valuable matter. Mr. Barrett died in 1789.
|| He was the son of a Venetian, resident at Bristol, and was
born here in the year 1467. Before he had completed his
twentieth year, he had made several voyages, in one of which
he discovered part of Newfoundland. Alter the death of his
father, it is supposed he completed this discovery ; and, long
before Columbus or Vesputius, also discovered (hi; continent of
America. He was the first who noticed the variations of the
magnetic needle.
5f Dr. Evans was born in 1738 ; and having received the first
part of his education for the ministry, under his own father, he
came to London about the year 1754, and became a pupil in
the academy at Mile End, then under the direction of Doctors
Walker and Jennings. After he left the academy, he settled
for some time at Unicorn Yard, Southwark. In 1759, he re-
turned lo Bristol, and became assistant to his father in the
Baptist Chapel at Broadmead. He was ordained, in 1767, by
the Rev. Dr. Slennett. lie assisted in establishing the Bristol
Education Society. About the year 1775, he engaged in a
controversy with the late Rev. John Wesley, respecting the
American war. In 1781, he was elected president of the;
Education Society, which office he retained till his death, in
1791. There is a handsome medallion of him, with an inscrip*
lion, staling the services he rendered the-institution, in the
Museum of the Academy at Bristol, executed by Baron ; and
an engraved head, by Holloway, was published^ soon after his
decease.
south
212
SOMERSETSHIRE.
south from Castle Gary. The church is a stately
pile, built about 1427. It contains a few monuments
and inscriptions, particularly one to the memory of
Lady Magdalen Hastings. It is an epitaph inscribed
on a brass piate, and consists of no fewer than
ninety-six lines ; detailing very minutely every event
connected with the birth, life, and death of tbe good
lady, with her two marriages.
CADBUHY, SOUTH] — The neighbourhood of South
Cadbury, six miles W. S. W. from Wincanton, is
grand and picturesque. Near the village are the
remains of one of the most remarkable fortifications
in the kingdom. Leland supposes it to have been
once a famous tower, or castle ; it is on a hill) to
which there are two very steep ascents ; the area at
top contains more than twenty acres, inclosed by
four deep ditches, and as many mounds or banks
disposed between them. Many gold, silver, and
copper coins of the Roman empire, chiefly of Anto-
ninus and Faustina, have been found, and a silver
horse-shoe mentioned by Leland and Stowe. A
high work, within the fortifications, is called King
Arthur's palace. Various camp utensils, and other
remains of military equipage, have been discovered
at the top, near the spring called King Arthur's
well. Writers are not unanimous in their opinions
respecting the origin of the place. Camden thinks
it may be the Cathbergion of Nennius, where Ar-
thur overthrew the Saxons ; and Stukely attributes
it to the Romans. Both may be right : the high work
at the top might have been the pretorium, and have
also been occupied by Arthur.
CAMEL, QUEEN'S.] — Queen's Camel, 5^ miles E.
N. E. from Ilchester, is a small ill-built town, re-
markable for nothing but a spring in the neighbour-
hood, very cold to the touch, and offensive to the
smell. It is said to have been used with success
in scrophulous cases ; and is much resorted to by
the country people.
CANNINGTON.] — The town of Cannington, 3|
miles N.W. by W. from Bridgewater, is neat and
well built, and was distinguished, in ancient times,
for its regularity and compactness. There were for-
merly many places in this parish worthy of note, now
decayed, particularly a priory of Benedictine nuns,
founded by Robert de Courcy, whose family gave
its name to a neighbouring parish. The church has
an elegant, embattled tower, and in the chancel is
a vault of the Clifford family, which is surrounded
by an iron pallisade, curiously ornamented. The
village of Combwick is in this parish.
CASTLE-CAREY.] — Castle-Carey, 1 1 miles E.N.E.
from Somerton, is a pleasant village, surrounded by
charming scenery. Nothing remains of the castle,
which wafs defended by William Lovell, its lord,
against the forces of Stephen, but a mound, and
its site, in which implements of war and bolts of
iron have been found. The manor-house, in which
Charles the Second sheltered himself after his flight
from Worcester, is ruinous. The church, simple
in its appearance, is decorated with a tower and
spire ; and, situated on an eminence, is a pleasing
object.
CHAPEL CLEEVE.] — Chapel Cleeve, a hamlet lying
between Old Cleeve and the sea, was so named from
a chapel erected on a rock, much resorted to by
pilgrims, of which vestiges are still to be seen.
There is another small chapel in the parish, at a
sequestered and romantic place, called jQeig bland.
CHARD.] — The market-town of Chard, 18 miles
S. W. from Somerton, and 1301 W. S. W. from
London, is built on the highest spot of ground,
between the Severn and the English channel. It
was called by the Saxons Cerdre ; hence some are
of opinion that it derived its name from Cerdie. At
the intersection of the two principal streets, stands
an ancient Gothic building, formerly a chapel, but
now used as a town-hall. An hospital was endowed
many years since by a Mr. Harvey, for the benefit
of old, infirm parishioners. — The church is a hand-
some building, having a tower with a clock and
eight bells ; it contains three monuments, one very
remarkable, to the memory of William Brewer, a
physician, and his wife : it. is built of various kinds
of marble and porphyry, and contains a double re-
cess, where are the effigies of William Brewer and
his wife kneeling at an altar, on which their hands
are placed. Behind the man are his six sons, and
behind the wife five daughters. This monument is
decorated with two round pillars, having gilt Corin-
thian capitals, two figures of angels, a cornice, and
obelisks. At Chard, the royalists were defeated
under the conduct of Colonel Penruddock. Chard
has given birth to several celebrated persons. John
Sandford, an eminent divine of the sixteenth cen-
tury ; and Sir Simon Every, a zealous royalist in
the civil war, were born there.
CHEDDAR.] — The town of Cheddar, 2f miles E.
S. E. from Axbridge, stands at the foot of the
Mendip, and the grandeur and variety of the sce-
nery, on all sides, are seldom exceeded. Nine small
springs issue from the foot of Cheddar cliff, and
uniting, form a broad and rapid stream, which once
turned thirteen mills, within half a mile of its source.
This town is much celebrated for its cheese. The
church is a handsome building, and its fine tower,
one hundred feet high, is embellished with Gothic
pinnacles. The windows are ornamented with many
coats of arms, and, in the chancel, is the engraved
portraiture of Sir Robert de Cheddar, armed, and
, trampling on a lion. Near it, is the portrait of a
female Both are in brass. The market cross, of
! a hexagonal shape, remains in good preservation.
The market is disused. Here is a paper manu-
i factory ; and numbers of the poor are employed in
spinning, .knitting, &c.
CHEW, MAGNA] — In the extensive and populous
parish of Chew, three miles W. by S. from Pens-
ford, are the remains of a Roman encampment,
called Bow Ditch. The form is circular, with a
triple row of ramparts. The church is a heavy
building, containing some curious monuments. One
of
SOMERSETSHIRE.
213
of Sir John de Loo and his lady, who died in 1443 ;
the recumbent figure of the former is of gigantic
size, and denotes, by its posture and costume, that,
the knight had been to Jerusalem. The effigies of
Sir John Hantvil, a gentleman of prodigious strength
in the reign of Edward the First, is in the south
aisle. It is cut out of one solid piece of Irish oak,
and represents him reclining on his left side, cloathed
in arnapur, over wluch is thrown a red cloak, fast-
ened by a girdle and gilt buckle.
CLAVERTON.] — Claverton is delightfully situated
on the banks of the Avon, 2£ miles E. S. E. from
Bath. Its church is a small Gothic building ; near
to wiiich is the manor-house, built in lfl-25 ; a fine
specimen of the style of building in the reign of
James the First. Mr. Graves, best known as the
author of " the Spiritual Quixote," was rector of
Claverton.*
CLEEVE, OLD.] — The village of Old Cleeve, which
stands among craggy cliffs, on the shores of the Bris-
tol channel, 3£ miles E.S.E. from Dunster, abounds
with very fine alabaster. The ruins of an abbey of
Cistercian monks are visible in a vale, called, in
old charters, Fallis Florida, from the appearance of
the surrounding scenery.
CLEVEDON.] — The village of Clevedon stands
near the Bristol channel, 12 miles W. by S. from
Bristol. The rocks in the vicinity rise to an im-
mense height ; and near the edge of one of them,
stands the church, in the form of a cross, surmount-
ed, in the centre, by a Gothic tower : on the summit
of another, was formerly a building, called Wake's
tower, erected as a place of observation.
COMBE ST. NICHOLAS.] — The church of Combe
St. Nicholas, two miles N. W. from Chard, is a
handsome building, with a square embattled tower.
The. village of Westoii, which tradition says, was
once the site of a nunnery, belongs to this parish.
CREWKERNE.] — The market-town of Crewkerne,
13 miles S. by W. from Somerton, and 131f W. S.
W. from London, is situated in a pleasant valley,
watered by the rivers Parret and Axe. Its name,
* Mr. Graves was the son of Richard Graves, Esq. of
Mickleton, Gloucester, a profound antiquary. lie was born
in 1715, read Homer and Hesiod in his twelfth year, and at
sixteen was chosen scholar of Pembroke College, Oxford.
There he joined a small party of young men, who assembled
to read Epictetus, Theophrastus, and such other Greek authors
as were not then recommended in the common course of study.
Their only beverage, at these meetings, was water. He there
formed an intimacy with Shenstone, which lasted till the death
of the latter. Elected, in 1736, a fellow of All Souls, he
entered on the study of physic, from which he was diverted by
a severe illness ; and lie took orders in 1740. Having obtained
a curacy near Oxford, by the recommendation of Dr. Samuel
Knight, lie lodged in the house of a gentleman farmer, whose
youngest daughter so far captivated him, that he resigned his
fellowship and married her. In 1750, he obtained the rectory
of Claverton, where he resided till his death ; and, in 1763, the
living of Kilmersdon, through the interest of his steady friend,
Ralph Allen, Esq. who also procured for him, a scarf from
Lady Chatham. The Festoon, a collection of Epigrams, was
his first publication ; it was followed, at short intervals, by
Tot. 1V.T—NO. 156.
in Saxon, signifies the Cottage of the Cross, The
church is an ancient Gothic structure, from the
centre of which rises a handsome and lofty tower>
surmounted by small turrets. All the parts of this
edifice, the windows particularly, are richly orna-
mented with carved work. Behind the communion
table, is a confessional, to which there are two doors ;
over one, atwhichthc penitent entered, are carved two
swine, figurative of his impure state ; over the other,
by which he quitted the salutary fane, are two figures
emblematical of the happy effects of the ceremony.
Crewkerne has two charity-schools, one of which,
liberally endowed by Dr. Hody, is in a flourishing
condition. There are also two alms-houses. West-
ward from Crewkerne, on Rana Hill, was formerly
a chapel, which contained the bones of St. Ranus, ;
and at Hasilborough, lived Wulfric, a celebrated
anchorite, whose raiment was of fine wrought iron.
His residence was a small cell, in which he was
visited by many distinguished personages, among
whom were Henry the First, and Stephen. He died
in 1154. Near the small tillage of East Chinnock,
three miles from Crewkerue, there is a remarkably
strong salt spring.
CCLBONE.J — The small, but singularly romantic
parish of Culbone, lies 9| miles W. by N. from
Minehead. It is environed on every side by moun-
tains, which are so high above the vale, as to inter-
cept the sun's rays, during three months of the year.
These hills abound with wild deer, foxes, badgers,
and martin-cats, and are covered with the kind of
food on which these animals love to subsist. The
church, a neat Gothic building, stands in a narrow
cove, behind which the hills rise almost perpendi-
cularly to the height of 1200 feet. A beautiful
rivulet rushes through a narrow channel, and, pass-
ing the church, forms a succession of cascades, in
flowing down the rocks into the sea. A spot more
picturesque than Culbone cannot be imajined.
CUTCOMBE.] — The parish of Cutcombe, 5| miles
S. W. by W. from Dunster, bounded on the north
and south by very lofty eminences, derives its name
Lucubrations in Prose and Rhime ; The Spiritual Quixote ;
A Treatise on Politeness, translated from the Italian of De la
Casa, Archbishop of Benevento ; Columella, or the Distressed
Anchorite ; Euphrosyne, consisting of poetical pieces ; Euge-
nius, or Anecdotes of "the Golden Vale ; Recollections of some
Particulars in the life of Mr. Shenstone ; Plexippus, or the
Aspiring Plebeian ; The Rout-Fleurettes, a translation of Arch-
bishop Fenelon's Ode on Solitude, &c. ; The Life of Corn-
modus, from the Greek of Herodian ; Hiero, on the Condition
of Royalty, from Xenophon ; The Meditations of Antoninus,
from the Greek ; The Reveries of Solitude ; The Coalition, or
Rehearsal of the Pastoral Opera of Echo and Narcissus ; Ser-
mons on various subjects ; The Farmer's Son, as a counterpart
to Mr. Anstey's Farmer's Daughter ; The Invalid, with the
obvious Means of enjoying Long Life, by a Nonagenarian ;
and Senilities. — The principal features of Mr. Graves's works
are benevolence, instruction, and harmless amusement. He
was himself the amiable character he frequently pourtrays; and,
by habits of cheerfulness and temperance, prolonged his life
free from blame and care, until his ninetieth year, when he
expired after a very short illness.
3 u from
214
SOMERSETSHIRE.
from two Saxon words, signifying a deep valley
covered with wood. Dunkery, the highest moun-
tain in the west of England, is one of those in its
vicinity, and rears its head, 1770 feet above the
level of the sea. On its summit is a vast collection
of rough, loose stones, among which are the ruins
of three large hearths, so disposed as to form an
equilateral triangle, enclosing another hearth much
larger. There are other similar remains on the hill,
probably of fortified signal posts. The line which
bounds the prospect from the top of Dunkery,
cannot be loss than 500 miles in circumference.
Within the view, on a clear day, are the high lands,
near Plymouth, and the Malvern hills, near Wor-
cester ; the counties of Somerset, Dorset, Hants,
aud Wilts, appear on the south and east ; and, on
the west and north-west, are the greater part of
South Wales, with the British and Bristol channels.
A charity school was founded, at Cutcombe, in
1720, by Richard Elsworth of Timberscombe, for
the instruction of ten poor children in reading
and writing. The church is an ancient structure.
DECUMAN* s, ST.] — This large parish, seated on
the sea-coast, five miles E. by S. from Dunster,
comprehends the town and borough of Watchet
(see Watchet) the village of Williton (which gives
name to a hundred) and the hamlets of Donniford,
Kentsford, Orchard, and Stream. St. Decuman is
said to have come from Wales (drifted across the
channel on a bundle of rods, or transported by a
cow) and fixed his solitary abode near the site of
the present church. — The village of Williton has a
small chapel, with the remains of four ancient crosses.
— The hamlet of Orchard, so called from its first
owner, is situated southward from Williton, near
the mansion of the Earl of Egremont. The western
part of this seat owes its erection to the first Sir
John Wyndham, whose mother, being supposed
dead, is said to have been buried in the vault of
St. Decuman's, where, happily, the sexton hearing
some noise as he shut the door, was attracted by it ;
he returned, and, suspecting the cause, had the
courage to open the coffin, in which he found Mrs.
Wyndham alive. — The church stands on an eminence.
At the west end is an elegant embattled tower, eighty
feet high, and within are several monumental tombs
and inscriptions in honour of the Orchard, Syden -
ham, and Wyndham families. Several individuals
of the last mentioned family have distinguished
themselves as statesmen and soldiers. Sir William
Wyndham was secretary of war, and chancellor
of the exchequer, in the reign of Anne. He filled
his situation as minister with great ability, and was
highly esteemed as an orator. On the death of the
queen, he signed the proclamation of the Elector ;
but was soon removed from his post, and then became
strenuous in opposition. When the rebellion broke
* Pryniie was born at Swanswick, in 1600. Having taken
fcis oegrte at Oxford, he removed to Lincoln's Inn, aud became
out in 1715, Sir William fell under suspicion, and
was apprehended at Orchard Wyndham by Colonel
Huske and a king's messenger. After his enlarge-
ment from the Tower, he retired to this county, and
died at Wells, in 1740.— On one of the Wyndham
monuments, of the 16th century, is a long inscrip-
tion, of which the following is the more curious
part : —
M -. ( VVheu changeless fate to death did change my life,
rllus ( I pray'd it to be gentle to my wife ;
Uxor
5 But she*, who hart and hand to thee did wedd,
Desired nothing more than this thiebedd.
p. '(I brought yoursoulcs, that linckt were each in either,
{To rest above, your bodies here together.
.l — The ancient town of Dulverton,
40 miles W. from Somerton, and 168 W. by S. from
London, consists of two neat streets. It was pur-
chased, in 1576, by John Sydenham, Esq. whose
•lescendents reside at a noble mansion, about a mile
from the town. The church, a Gothic structure,
has an eaibattled tower, with a small turret at one
corner. There are a few lead-mines in the neigh-
bourhood ; and, in the town are manufactories of
coarse woollen cloths and blankets.
DUNSTER.] — Dunster, 36 miles W. N. W. from
Somerton, 162| W.by S. from London, is situated
on the margin of a rich and fertile vale, near the
Bristol channel. The name is derived from dune, a
ridge of .hills, and torre a tower. In the reign of
Edward the Third, Dunster sent representatives to
parliament and enjoyed other valuable privileges ;
at present, the parishoners are entitled to vote in
the election of members for Minehead ; but the town
is of small importance. The church, one of the
largest Gothic structures in England, was built by
Henry the Seventh, in token of his gratitude for the
assistance he received from the inhabitants in the
battle of Bosworth-field. It is divided by a tower,
raised on four large pillars, embattled, and surmount-
ed by low broken pinnacles. The eastern division
was the original church belonging to a priory of
Benedictine monks, which once stood on the south-
east side of the church-yard. That part is now
despoiled of its furniture, and contains only some
fine tombs and escutcheons of the families of Mohun
and Luttrell. The other division is used in the
performance of divine worship, and is remarkable
for nothing else. The castle was built after the
Conquest, on the site of a structure which was de-
molished. Sir William Mohun was the founder ;
and, in the line of his descendants, it continued, till
sold to the Luttrells in the reign of Henry the
Third. The present possessor is John Fownes Lut-
trell, Esq. The famous William Prynne was con-
fined there for some time.*
EASTLING
an admirer of Preston, a distinguished puritan, and turn lecturer
there. In 163^, he published a book in condemnation of play?,
SOMERSETSHIRE.
EAST-LINO.] — This parish stands near the con-
fluence of the rivers Parret and Thoue, six miles
S. S. B. from Bridgewater, ami is distinguished by
the Isle of Athelney, within its limits ; the asylum
of the illustrious Alfred in his adversity. He founded
Athelney Abbey, for monks of the Benedictine order;
a structure described by William ot'Malmsbury as
possessing peculiarity of structure, and beauty of
embellishment. The latter part of his opinion is fully
confirmed by the remains sometimes discovered on or
near the spot where it stood. All vestiges of this
eiiifice have been long removed, but, in the progress
of agricultural operations, on its site, various curi-
osities have been found. In 1074, an ancient coffin,
so formed as to fit the shape of a human body, and
containing a skull, aud a piece of cloth, was dis-
covered by some labourers. The same individuals,
found beside this and many other pieces of sculp-
tured stone, retaining marks of painting and gild-
ing, a golden spear, probably the gift of Alfred.
A curious amulet, now in the museum at Oxford,
was found near this spot in 1603. It is of gold
enamelled. On on*? side, is a rude figure, crowned
and seated, holding in each hand a sceptre, sur-
mounted by a lily, on the other a legend, Aelfrd
mec heit gevvrcan : " Alfred ordered me to be made."
It is doubtless that the figure represents Alfred. At
the village of Boroughbridge, in this parish, is a
large mount, perhaps a sepulchral tumulus, on which
are the ruins of a chapel, consisting of the tower
and the main walls. The church of East Ling is a
neat and simple building, with a tower of free-
stone.
E ASTON IN GORDANO.] — The eminence on which
Easton stands, commands a prospect of King's
Rond harbour and Bristol ; from which city it is
distant five miles W. N. W. In the tower of the
church is a bell, on which is described,
" Come, when I call, to serve God all."
At the mouth of the Avon lies the hamlet of Cro-
kerne Pill, chiefly inhabited by pilots.
ENMORE.] — This village is four miles W. S. W.
from Bridgewater. Enmore Castle, the country-
seat of the Earl of (Dgraont, to whom the manor
belongs, is a modern erection, in the antique style.
The figure is quadrangular, embattled, with a semi-
circular bastion at each corner, and a spacious court
in the interior. It is surrounded by a dry ditch,
in which lie stigmatized all " women actors" as " notorious
whores." It happened that the queen condescended, about six
weeks after, to take a part in the representation of a pastoral.
Laud, seizing the handle, accident had presented to him,
hastened to the king, and strained Prynne's work into a libel
upon majesty. Prynne was immediately committed, and con-
demned in the Star Chamber to pay a tine of 500/. to stand in
the pillory, and to lose his ears: his book was publicly burnt,
and he was to remain a prisoner during life. But his case be-
coming a subject of parliamentary enquiry he was released;
and shortly after elected member for Newport, in Cornwall.
Being expelled the long parliament, by Cromwell, he defied
sixteen feet deep and forty wide ; and is approached
by a draw-bridge of curious construction. The
hall is decorated with busts and coats of arms. A
geometrical stair-case leads to the upper apartments,
which are profusely furnished with paintings. This
edifice, standing on a gentle eminence, commands a
rich and extensive prospect. The church of Enmore
is remarkable for nothing but its simplicity : in the
church-yard stands an ancient cross, and a fine old
yew-tree, the trunk of which measures nineteen feet
in circumference.
EXFORD.]— Exford, 8| miles N. W. by N. front
Dulverton, is a parish on the river Ex, standing in
a fertile vale, but surrounded by black and dreary
moors. The church, standing on an eminence, is a
good Gothic structure. About a mile and a half east-
ward from it are the remains of some ancient iron-
works. Exmoor Forest was, in Druidical ages,
dedicated to religious rites, and many traces of
ancient sepulchres are to be discovered. On the
skirts of the forest, are a number of circular en-
trenchments called castles ; but they are small, and
were formed by the Druids rather for purposes of
religious ceremony, than as fortresses.
FAIRFIEI.D.] — See Stokecourcy.
FARLEY.] — The village of Farley, or Fairleigh,
6J miles S. E. by S. from Bath, is said to have de-
rived its name from the fairness of its leys, and it
well deserves the appellation. It is celebrated, for
the ruins of a castle of great antiquity.
The chapel alone remains, and the curious monu-
ments it contains are well preserved. Under the
arch of the side chapel, stands an old table tomb,
highly sculptured, having on the top the represen-
tation of a knight and a lady, both recumbent ; the
former armed, with a lion at his feet, the latter in
the dress of the age : these are the effigies of Sip
Thomas Hungerford and Johanna his wile, who died
in the beginning of the sixteenth century. There
are other monuments of this family, one of whichy
gorgeously painted and gilt, bears an inscription
dated 1697. A second has no inscription, but dis-
plays the effigies of an old lady, accompanied by
four sons and two daughters. A third is a slab,
inserted in the wall, bearing an epitaph written in
memory of a lady. The most magnificent is in the
centre. It is of white polished marble, and sup-
ports the effigies of Sir Edward and Lady Hunger-
ford, the former in complete armour, at his feet a
wheat-sheaf, the family crest ; the latter in a loose
the protector, in the most daring manner, and was, in conse-
quence, imprisoned by him in Dunstar Castle ; his resolute
conduct, however, soon procured him his freedom. He was
zealous in his wish for the Restoration ; and that being effected,
he was made chief keeper of his Mujesi v's records in the Tower,
with a salary of 500/. per annum. Wynne was an eternal
scribbler, and one writer calls him " the greatest paper-worm
that ever crept into a closet." Lord Clarendon calls him
learned in the law, as far as reading could make him so ; and
Anthony Wood acknowledged that his works, although rhapso-
dical, might be useful to antiquaries* critics) and divines.
dress
216
SOMERSETSHIRE.
dress, with a lion and anchor at her feet ; the date
is 1648. The ceiling is painted with the Resurrec-
tion, and the figures of several saints. The vault
of the chapel contains the embalmed bodies of eight I
of the Hungerfords, encased in lead ; one of these
coffins, which are all shaped like a human body, is
perforated on the right shoulder ; the matter, which |
may be extracted, is a thick glutinous liquid, of a
brown colour, and resinous smell ; the flesh is de-
composed by the admission «f air, but the bones still
retain their soundness. The nave of the chapel j
contains an old wooden pulpit, a large slab of pud- j
ding stone, which forms the altar ; and some pieces I
of ancient armour, the rude remains of the age of
chivalry. The castle and estate, after remaining in
the Hungerford family from the reign of Richard II. /
were alienated by the famous spendthrift, Sir Ed-
ward Hungerford, with twenty-seven other manors
at the same time, yielding a yearly income of 30,000/.
He lived to the age of 115, supported by charity,
and exercising mendicity during the last 30 years of
his existence. The sale of this property was trans-
acted in 1681 with the family of Bay « ton ; and not
Jong after, it passed into the Houlton family, who
still hold it.
FnoME.]— The large and popular market-town of
Frome, 24 miles N. E. from Somerton, and 105
W. by S. from London, is situated on the side of a
hill in the ancient forest of Selvvood. The town is
ill-built ; and the manufactures, chiefly woollen, are
declining. Some remains of a monastery, founded
ther« in 705, still exist, after a lapse of 1000 years ;
these vestiges, yet distinguishable, are situated in
that part of the town called Lower Keyford, and
have been converted into apartments for poor per-
sons. Many other remains of antiquity are remem-
bered to have existed ; which, having become dan-
gerously ruinous, were removed a few years since.
The church, situated in the eastern part of the town,
is a large, handsome building, with a square tower,
and neat spire. The interior is adorned in an ele-
gant and suitable manner. Three miles southward
from the town stands the new church, built in 1712.
The woodlands in its vicinity have been, within the
memory of man, the retreat of a desperate band of
desperadoes, the terror of the surrounding parishes.
There are several alms-houses and other charitable
institutions at Frome, and two free-schools. The
manor of Keyford was once the property of the an-
cient family of Twynicho, in the memoirs of which,
occurs the relation of a circumstance that may be
cited as an instance of the irregular and unautho-
rised mode of ministering justice at the period when
it happened. The house of Aukerette, widow of
William Twynicho, was forcibly entered by several
persons, who, without warrant, seized her person
and conveyed her to Warwick, where she was
confined. Her daughter, who, with some relations
and servants, had followed her unfortunate parent,
was commanded by George, Duke of Clarence, the
promoter of this violence, to return home. On the
third day of her detention, the unfortunate prisoner
was charged with having designed and compassed
the death of Isabel, wife of Clarence, by means of
poison. None doubted her innocence ; but the jury,
intimidated by the presence and menaces of the
Duke and his followers, pronounced her guilty, and
the justices sentenced her to die. The wretched
lady was immediately dragged through the town,
to the gallows, and there executed. The falsehood
of the charges and the iniquity of the sentence are
proved by a decree of Edward the Fourth, revers-
ing the process, verdict, and judgment. At the
Bull Inn, in this town, is a cask which is said to
contain 600 puncheons.
GLASTONBURY.] — The town of Glastonbury, 7|
miles N. by E. from Somerton, and 127 W. by S.
from London, is situated in the Isle of Avalon, so
called from its apples, or from AnaUuc, a British
chief. The island was called Inis Witrin, or the
Glassy Island, either from the " glasten" or " blue-
green" colour of its surface, or because it abounded
with " glass" or woad. — Glastonbury is indebted
for its origin to its monastic institutions, which claim
the honour of having existed from a period nearly
coeval with Christianity. Glastonbury abbey is said
to have been first instituted by St. Joseph of Arima-
thea, who buried the body of our Saviour, and whom
Philip, the apostle of Gaul, sent to preach the gos-
pel in Britain. The town was first built about the
year 708. In 873 it was demolished by the Danes,
hut was rebuilt by King Edmund, the ninth Saxon
monarch, who exempted its inhabitants from all civil
impositions and oppressions, and rendered it entirely
dependent on the abbey ; in which state it remained
till 1181, when both town and abbey were burnt.
It was again rebuilt by Henry the Third, and once
more destroyed in 1276, by an earthquake, which
laid the whole town in ruins, and precipitated the
church of St. Michael from the top of the Tor Hill.
Glastonbury at present consists of two streets, the
principal of which runs from east to west, where
stands the market-cross ; while the other intersects
it at the cross, which has been some years in ruins.
Both of these streets have many of their houses en-
tirely built of stones from the abbey. Out of the
ruins of the old abbot's lodging, on the east of the
second street, the house called the Abbey-house
was constructed in 1714, and adorned with arms
and other ornaments, in alto relievo. The great
gate, which formerly led into the abbey and the
great church, is now an inn. In this house the
abbot's bed, Was formerly shewn to strangers. The
George Inn, in High Street, was formerly an hos-
pital for the entertainment of pilgrims resorting to
the shrine of St. Joseph. The Rev. Mr. Warner
tells us, many females reposed at this inn, and ex-
presses a suspicion, founded on the fact of there
being an under-passage hence to the abbey, that
they not unfrequently spent their nights in the arms
of the monks. — Above the George Inn, is a house
having a window called the Tribunal, formerly or-
namented
SOMERSETSHIRE.
i'17
aamented with painted glass, escutcheons, and arms
of the abbots, Kings of England, &c. On the south
side of the same street, is an hospital, or poor's
house, founded and endowed in 1512, by abbot
Beer, for the maintenance and accommodation of
ten poor women. Adjoining is a clmpel, having a
room paved with Roman bricks. At the oast end
of the street stands an old chapel, or cell, dedicated
to St. Margaret. On the west side of the second
street is the hospital of St. John, erected in 1246.
Glastonbury comprehends two parishes, St. John
^he Baptist, and St. Benignus, or Benedict. The
church of the former is a neat building, surmounted
by a lofty tower, light and beautiful. In the lower
division of the church are many niches, which ap-
Rear to have been filled with statues as large as
fe ; 'but only five of them now remain.
The church of St. Benedict, in the West Street,
was erected by abbot Beer, whose initials are in-
scribed on a carved shield, in the centre of a gar-
land, surmounted by a mitre over the north en-
trance. On a battlement above is a cross, and two
cups, with the letters R. B. at the bottom.
The abbey was at first built only of wattles and
wreathed twigs. This having fallen to decay, an-
other was raised on the same site, larger, and more
permanent. St. Patrick, who visited Glastonbury
about the year 439, was a munificent patron to this
abbey. In 530, St. David, archbishop of Canter-
bury, came here, accompanied by a number of his
suffragan bishops, and laid out vast sums in adding
to, and adorning, the buildings of this monastery.
King Ina demolished the whole of the buildings for-
merly erected, and constructed a monastery in honour
of Jesus, and the apostles St. Peter and St. Paul,
which he most sumptuously adorned. He also
erected a chapel, the silver plate and garnishing of
which weighed more than 2640 pounds. On the
altar were 260 pounds weight of solid gold. The
church-plate was set with jewels, and other pre-
cious stones of incredible value. He granted to
the abbey a great extent of territory, and confirmed
all privileges, civil and religious. lie also rendered
this monastery independent •of the episcopal autho-
rity, and annexed to its jurisdiction seven of the j
neighbouring parishes, a measure which gave rise
to continual disputes between the abbot and the
bishop, during a period of 450 years. These
parishes afterwards composed the archdeaconry,
and are still called " the jurisdiction of Glaston-
•bury." During the depredations of the Danes,
this monastery declined ; but its ancient grandeur
was restored in the reign of Edmund, who appoint-
ed St. Dun-.tan.to preside over it, and gave him the
free use of the royal treasures to rebuild it. . The
new foundation was laid in 942 ; and, soon after, a
numerous congregation of Benedictine monks were
introduced from France, who brought with them
immense riches. The monks continued in peace
till the abbacy of Turston or Thurston, who so
tyrannized over them, that they refused obedience
VOL iv. — NO. 156.
to his commands. Enraged at this contempt, he
ordered a party of soldiers to enforce submission,
who impetuously rushed through the monastery,
driving its religious inhabitants before them into
the great church, where they killed two monks,
and wounded many others who attempted to defend
themselves. After this outrage, many of the monks
i left the monastery, and did not return till the death
of Thurston, in 1101, when Herlcwin succeeded;
who expended a large sum in raising a new church
on the site of the old one. The abbey at length
fell into the hands of Henry the Second. In 1184,
the greater part was reduced to ashes ; but the
King soon enabled the monks to rebuild it. The
last abbot was Richard Whiting, who received his
appointment through the friendship of Wolsey. —
The riches of Glastonbury abbey, joined to the
obstinacy of Whiting, were the immediate causes
of its dissolution : its pastor was executed on Tor
Hill, his body quartered, and exposed in different
parts of the country. — The estates of this monas-
| tery alone, now produce nearly 300,000/. annually ;
but the heritable property of this church afforded
only a small part of its actual revenue, which was
chiefly derived from the donations of pilgrims, and
the pious munificence of foreign Princes. The
governor had precedence of all the abbots in Eng-
land till the year 1154, when Pope Adrian the
Fourth conferred that honour on the abbot of St.
Alban's. The abbot of Glastonbury was always a
member of the upper house of convocation, and a
parliamentary baron.
Tho great church is now only a heap of ruins.
Its original extent alone can be discovered ; though
many defaced traces of splendid architecture are
still to be seen among the mass of stones which
occupy its site. The chapel of St. Joseph, at the
west end of the great church is more entire. Its
style is mixed Anglo-Norman, or Saxon, and partly
Gothic, both perfect in their kind. — The abbot's
kitchen is still in better preservation than the other
buildings of this monastery. It is formed from an
octagon, included in a square. There are four
fire-places in it, one in each angle, having chim-
nies over them in the flat part of the roof. Between
these rises an arched octagonal pyramid, crowned
with a double lantern, one within another. There
are eight carved ribs in the interior, which support
the vault, and eight funnels for letting out the
steam through the windows. Within this pyramid
there is one of a lesser size, in which was hung the
bell, whose chime was the signal for collecting the
poor people at the adjoining almonry, which now
lies in ruins on the north side of the kitchen. — Be-
neath the ruins of this monastery, many kings,
nobles, and prelates were buried ; but the monu-
ments are now entirely defaced or demolished.
The illustrious Arthur, having met his death at the
battle of Camlan, was brought hither, and buried
in front of the high altar, where he reposed undis-
turbed many ages. A tradition, however, of his
3 1 place
218
SOMERSETSHIRE.
place of sepulture, had been preserved among the
British bards, who fled for shelter to the mountain-
ous districts of Wales, after the Saxon conquest.
One of these poets happened to discover the secret,
in a legend which he recited to Henry the Second.
That monarch ordered the spot described in the
poem to be opened ; when, seven feet from the
surface, a plate with the following inscription upon
it, appeared ; —
Hie jacet sepultus inditus
Rex Arturius in insula Avalonia.
At the depth of nine feet further, the hollowed
trunk of an oak tree, containing the gigantic bones
of the British patriot, was found.
The vicinity of Glastonbury, as well as the town
itself, abounds with religious monuments. The Tor,
or tower of St. Michael, is situated on the top of a
•very high hill, to the north east of the monastery.
The first erection upon this hill was a small oratory,
the work of the saints Phaganus and Duruvianus,
who visited Glastonbury about 100 years after the
building of the abbey by St. Joseph. This oratory,
dedicated to the honour of St. Michael the arch-
angel, was rebuilt by St. Patrick, and adorned by
several of his successors. In latter times a church
and monastery were added to the original building.
In the year 1271, these structures were entirely
demolished by an earthquake, the whole being pre-
cipitated, with tremendous force, from their lofty
foundation, on which, for many centuries, they had
.braved the fury of the wind and the violence of the
storm. They were soon after erected anew, and in
a more splendid style. None of them, however,
ere now remaining except the tower. At the west
«nd, is a carved figure of St. Michael the arch-
* One Matthew Chancellor, of North Wotton, perceiving
the unprosperous condition of Glastonbiiry, bethought himseit
of inventing some method of inticing people to visit or settle
in the town. He had been afflicted with an asthma for more
than 30 years. Being seized with a strong fit in the month of
October, 1750, he afterwards fell asleep, and either dreamed,
or pretended that he dreamed, that he was at Glastonbury,
where he saw a spring of water, the most pure and refreshing
lie had ever beheld. He kneeled down and drank of it.
When he arose, he observed a person standing before him, who,
pointing to the well, told him, that, by drinkiiig the water of
that spring, for seven Ruccessive Sundays, fasting, he would
find himself perfectly recovered from his disorder. He added;
" you must then make it known to all the world." Matthew
obeyed nis instructions, went to the place appointed, and found
there a well similar to that of which he dieamed. He drank
of it every Sunday morning accordingly ; and, at the end of
the time mentioned, experienced the good effects of his faith
in the Divine favour. No sooner was he recovered, than lie
. proclaimed his miraculous cure throughout the whole neigh-
bourhood ; hence it soon found its way to every part of the
country. The stratagem succeeded : numbers from all ciuar-
ters of the kingdom, and of every denomination, flocked to
Glastoubury, to partake of the hallowed stream. At one time
there were not less than 10,000 strangers in the town and its
neighbourhood. Matthew had the satisfaction of enjoying, for
nearly twelve months, the glorious privileges of a divine am-
angel, holding in his hand a pair of scales, in one
of which there is a bible, and in the other a devil,
who is assisted by another bearing upon the scales :
both are represented, however, as much too light
to poise against the holy volume. — To the south-
west of the town is Weary-all-Hill, an eminence,
said to have derived its* name from St. Joseph and
his companions resting here when much fatigued ift
travelling through the country. Here, it is record-
ed, St. Joseph fixed his staff in the earth, which
immediately took root, and ever after put forth
its leaves on Christmas day. It had, we are told,
two distinct trunks till the reign of Elizabeth, when
one of them was destroyed by a Puritan ; and the
other met the same fate during the great rebellion.
The blossoms of this tree were esteemed such great
curiosities as to become an object of gain to the "
merchants of Bristol, who disposed of them to the
inhabitants of their own city, and also exported
them to different parts of Europe. This tree was
probably brought from Palestine, by some of the
pilgrims, there being a species of thorn which
blooms at Christmas, a native of that country.— 1-
There also grew in the abbey church-yard, to the
north of St. Joseph's chapel, a miraculous walnut-
tree, which never budded before the llth of June,
the feast of St. Barnabas. This is also gone.
These trees were visited as sacred by all ranks of
people ; and large sums were paid for sprigs of
them, by King James and his nobility.
Immediately under the Tor Hill, is a spring ren-
dered famous, in 1751, for pretended miraculous
powers in the cure of asthmatic diseases.*
Sharpham Park, at a small distance from Glas-
tonbury, on the south-east, is famous as the birth-
place of Henry Fielding, one of the most celebrated
of English writers. f
GOATHURST.]— • •
bassador. He was respected and honoured by all as the pecu-
liar favourite of heaven. At last, the simple pilgrims found
themselves relieved of their pluses, but not of their disorders,
and the bubble burst. .
•}• This gentleman was born in the year 1707. After receiv-
ing the rudiments of education at home, he went to Eton, from
whence he was sent to Leydf n, where he studied two years",
and then returned to England. The narrowness of his father's
circumstances, and the largeness of his family, prevented him
from providing for his son in a proper manner. He then com-
menced writer for the stage, his first piece being intituled,
" Love in several Masques," which met with a favourable
reception ; as did his next performance, called " The Temple
Beau." Some of his dramatic efforts, however, were not s»
successful, and he had the courage to prefix to one of them,
" As it was damned at the Theatre-Royal, Drury-Lane." He
afterwards had the good luck to marry a lady of some fortune ;
and, by the death of his mother, he came into the possession of
200?. His extravagancies, however, were such, that at the age
of 30, he had reduced himself to his former .condition, on which
he entered the Temple, and studied the law with considerable
ardour, still exercising his pen for immediate support. One of
I his publications was "The Hi-tory of Jonathan Wild," a noto-
i rious character, whose soiy Fielding wrought up into an en-
1 tertaining romance. In 1742, appeared his " >o«eph Andrews,"
a novel full of numour, and admirable delineations of human
nature. During the Rebellion of J745, he published some
pa-
SOMERSETSHIRE.
219
GOATHCRST.] — Goathurst, three miles S.W. by W.
from Bridgewater, a parish famous for the size and
beauty of its trees, derived its name from two Saxon
words, signifying that the woods abounded with
goats. The enclosures round the mansion-house at
llanswell, a noble and elegant building, exhibit the
iinest scenery in that part of the island. Taste has
improred the natural beauties of the demesne, and
created artificial charms. The prospect, one of the
finest in nature, comprehends the channel, and the
distant mountains of Wales beyond it. The church
of Goathurst, deprived of its venerable complexion
by a covering of white-wash, contains nothing re-
markable but two ill-executed pictures which dis-
grace the altar ; and a marble monument erected in
1742, to the memory of the Rev. Sir John Tynte,
Bart, who died rector of the parish.
HINTON.] — Hinton Charter-house, the seat of
S. J. Day, Esq. five miles S. S. E. from Bath, con-
tains some excellent pictures by Holbein, Vandyke,
Sir Joshua Reynolds, and other great masters. The
ancient priory of Hinton rears its ivy-clad tower in
a grove of venerable oaks, which seem coeval with
the structure.
HINTON ST. GEORGE.] — Hinton St. George is
situated about three miles N.W. byN. from Crew-
kerne. The church has a well-built tower, and con-
tains several monuments of the family of Poulett.
The seat of Earl Poulett stands southward from
the town, and is surrounded by fine parks and stately
woods.
ILCHESTER.] — Ilchester, four miles S. S. E. from
Somerton, and 122 W. S.W. from London, was a
Roman station, and the Gifelcestre of the Saxons.
By the Romans it was fortified with a strong wall
and wet ditch, filled from the Ivel, of which vestiges
are still visible. The only church remaining of six,
which the town once possessed, has an octagonal
tower of Roman masonry. There are places of
divine worship for various sects of dissenters
from the establishment. The town is remarkable
patriotic pieces, for which he was made a Middlesex justice, in
which situation he gained considerable reputation, by his En-
quiry imo the Causes of the late Increase of Robberies', and
his Proposal for the Maintenance of the Poor. About this time
he wrote his principal work, the novel of Tom Jones; which
exhibits a great knowledge of life, and is equally rich in comic
delineation and pathetic expression. The moral, however, is
suspicious. His Amelia, which followed in 175 1, is more correct
in its sentiment, but deficient in humour and variety. A com-
plication of complaints had now produced a dropsy, and after
undergoing the operation of tapping, he went with his family to
Lisbon, where he died in 1754. His works have been printed
uniformly, in 12 vols. 8vo. with his life prefixed by Mr.
Murphy.
* Roger, commonly called Friar Bacon, was born in 1214,
and received his education at Oxford, from whence he removed
to Paris, then regarded as the centre of learning. He there
obtained thedeqfpe of doctor, and a reputation for science which
promised to render trim the glory of his country, and the boast
of the univeiMty. At his return, he became a monk of the
Franciscan order, that he might be enabled to prosecute his
researches in philosophy with less interruption. But his pro-
found knowlege, and superior genius excited the jealousy oi his
for nothing more than the honour of having given
birth to Roger Bacon,* and Elizabeth Rowe.f The
former was born at the Friary-house, a building of
which some remains still exist.
KINGSWOOD.] — At Kingswood Forest, which
comprises about 6000 acres, three miles E. N. E.
from Bristol, is a celebrated establishment of.th.6
Wesleyan methodists. This place was long cele-
brated for its extensive collieries, and was still more
notorious for the uncivilized state of the colliers,
and the extraordinary change effected amongst them
by the introduction of methodism. The institution
alluded to was founded, in 1748, by the Rev. J. Wes-
ley, who designated it as a school for the children
of his followers in general ; in a few years, however,
it became too small to answer that preacher's inten-
tion, and was accessible to the sons of ministers
exclusively. Pupils are admitted at eight, and may
remain till fourteen years of age ; and are initiated
into various branches of education, taught in other
similar establishments. The discipline is severe ;
according to the intention of the founder, who de-
sired that the pupils should never play ; but that,
to repair the lassitude occasioned by a sedentary
pursuit of learning, they should be taught some
mechanic art.
ILMINSTER.] — Ilminster, 14 miles S. W. from
Somerton, and 136 W. S. W. from London, was of
some note before the Conquest. Its name is Saxon,
signifying the church upon the river lie. Some of
the houses are good stone or brick buildings ; but
the greater part are formed from -old walls, covered
with thatch. The church is Gothic, and cruciform ;
having in the centre a quadrangular tower, sur-
mounted by twelve pinnacles. This edifice contains
the bodies of Nicholas Wadham, founder of Wadham
College, Oxford, and his wife, Dorothy, whose por-
traitures, in brass are seen on the tomb which covers
their ashes. Both died in the beginning of the
seventeenth century. Near this, there is another
ancient tomb, the inscription on which is obliterated.
brethren, who dreaded the extension of science, and perhaps
the exposure of their frauds. Bacon was immured in his cell,
where he continued for ten years indetatigably engaged in the
pursuit of new discoveries. At the accession of Jerome de
-Ascoti to the papal chair, he applied to that pontiff for his re-
lease, ami addressed to him a treatise " on the means of avoid-
ing the infirmities of old age." He did not, however, obtain
his desire till towards the close of that pope's reigo. After his
liberation, he continued in the college ol his order, where he
died 1294, aged 80, and was buried in the Franciscan church.
f Mrs. Rowe was the daughter of a dissenting clergyman of
Ilchester, and was born in 1674. Her early years were marked
by an ardent attachment to poetry, for which she shewed no
contemptible talent, whilst yet extremely youn^. To this art
she added the accomplishment of music and painting. Being
invited to London, " the pious, the poetic, and the polite,"
united to do her honour. She was admired and addressed by
Prior, but she gave her hand and affections to Mr. Thomas
Rowe, who unhappily died soon after; she then settled at Frome,
where she continued to reside, till her death, in widowhood and
retirement, solely occupied in writing those works which have
attached to her memory, observed celebrity.
It
220
SOMERSETSHIRE.
It is finely ornamented, and presents the portraitures
of a man and a woman ; the former in armour,
trampling on a lion ; the latter, robed in black and
veiled. There are several other curious monu-
ments, in various parts of the church. An excel-
lent free-school was founded at Ilminster, in 1550,
by Humphry Wahlron, and Henry Greenfield,
Esqrs. Richard Samways, a learned divine, and a
great sufferer in the civil war of Charles the First,
was a native of this place. The cloth manufacture
is carried on here
. KELWESTON.] — Kelweston, pronounced Kelston,
four miles W. N. W. from Bath, is a small parish ;
but the scenery which it presents, is as pleasing and
beautiful as can be well imagined. In the eastern
part, is the fine eminence called Henstridge Hill,
which rises to a vast height above the bed of the
river Avon. The old manor-house, of which nothing
but the court-yard now remains, was built in 1587,
by Sir John Harrington, Bart, after a design of
Vignota, an Italian architect of that age. Sir John
is principally known as the translator of Ariosto,
•which he published before his thirtieth year. He
had for his godmother Queen Elizabeth ; and when
he went to court, he recommended himself to her
notice by his wit and sprightly writings, but chiefly
by his translation of Alcina and Rogero ; with the
licentiousness of which, however, she feigned to be
offended ; imposed upon him, by way of penanoe,
the translation of the whole poem. His satirical
\ein often involved him in unpleasant dilemmas,
and, soon tired of the folly and hypocrisy of the
court, he retired to his family seat at Kelweston.
On the accession of James, he endeavoured to in-
gratiate himself at court, by the intercession of that
monarch's courtiers, and there is even a letter ex-
tant, which the king wrote to him with his own hand ;
but it does not appear that his Majesty performed
the promise of patronage there made.* — The pre-
sent manor-house was built by Sir Cesar Hawkins,
about half a century ago. It is elegant, and well
situated, a little south of the old mansion.
KEYNSHAM.] — Kcynsham is 7| miles N. N. W.
from Bath, and 1J5 W. from London, on the south
bank of the Avon. It is said to have derived its
name from Keyna, a princess of great sanctity, who
here lived the life of a recluse, and rid the country,
tradition says, of the swarms of serpents and other
venomous reptiles with which it was infested. Keyn-
sham was formerly considerable for its woollen manu-
facture ; and famous for the herb, parsley piert,
useful in urinary complaints : woad is still raised
in great quantities, for the purposes of dying. It
(was formerly celebrated for its abbey of Black
* This letter runs as follows :
" To our trustie and wel- beloved Sir John Harrington, Knt.
" Rt trustie and wel-beloved friend, we greet yow liairtily
weill. We have ra'usavit your laoterne with the poesie ye send
us be our servand William Hunter, geving yow hairtie thanks,
as lykewayis for your last letter quharin we persaift the conti-
canons, of which not a vestige remains. The church
is a large and handsome building, adorned by a lofty
tower, and the interior is beautified by several curious
monuments and tombs.
LANGPORT.] — Langport, 4f miles W. S.W. from
Somerton, and 129J W. S. W. from London, was
once a royal burgh, and still claims certain privi-
leges, by custom immemorial. No lord has right
of soil in two pieces nf land in its neighbourhood,
called Common Moor and Ragg Common, con-
taining together about 220 acres of good meadow-
land;, and, on these tracts, the neighbouring inha-
bitants of all descriptions, assume the liberty of
feeding their cattle, a'nd even of building, in what
manner they think most convenient to themselves.
In the neighbouring parish of Muchelney, was
formerly an abbey of Benedictine monks, the ruins
of which are now converted into a barn ; the win-
dows, ornamented with much stained glass, are
adorned with sculpture on the outside. Several
stone staircases and painted arches are entire.
LANSDOWN.] — See Widcombe.
MIDFORD CASTLE.] — See Stanton Prior.
MILVERTON.] — Milverton, 2| miles S. E. from
Wiveliscombe, is situated in a woody country, well-
cultivated, and very populous. It was once a bo-
rough, and still has a considerable manufacture of
flannel. The town is chiefly remarkable in history,
for having given name to the celebrated John dc
Milverton, who signalized himself by a zealous
opposition to the doctrines of Wickliff, the first
English reformer.
MILBORNE PORT.] — Milborne Port, 7| miles S.S.
W. from Wincaunton, was, before the Conquest, the
principal town in this part of the county. Its name
is derived from the Saxon words, " myll," and
" burn," a torrent ; the adjunct Port signifies a
borough in the same language. The church of
Milborne Port, cruciform, and very ancient, con-
tains some neat monuments of the Medlicott family,
and that of Mr. Noake. During the civil war,
Cromwell's soldiers robbed the church of its bible;
but the inhabitants, armed with quarter-staves,
attacked them with such fury, that they were obliged
to restore the sacred volume, and seek safety by
flight. Here are considerable manufactures of li-
nen, &c.
MINKHEAD.] — Minehead, 38* miles W. N. W.
from Somerton, and 105 W. by S. from London,
is a sea-port and borough, divided into three parts,
the Quay Town, and the Upper and Lower Towns.
The first of these stands close to the, shore, under
the brow of a lofty bill. The upper town is situ-
ated on the eastern slope of this eminence, and the
nuance of your loyal affection to us and your service. We
shall not be unmyndefull to extende our princely favour heir-
after to yow and your perticulers at all guid occasions. We
commit yow to God.
"JAMES R."
" From our Court at Hallyruid House,
the 3d of April, 1603."
lower
SOMERSETSHIRE,
2-21
lower is about lialf a mile S.E. from the beach.
Minehead was, formerly, a place of commercial im-
portance, employing, in the trade with Ireland alone,
40 vessels, besides several to the West Indies and
America. The herring fishery, long a source of
trade with the Mediterranean, is no longer carried
on, and the whole trade of the place is discontinued.
The mildness of the air is such that vegetation takes
place a month earlier here than in most other parts
of England. The same cause induces a number of
persons to resort hither for sea -bathing, a circum-
stance which contributes to the prosperity of the
place, in a great degree. The church, situated in the
upper town, is a large and handsome building, chiefly
remarkable for an elegant alabaster statue of Queen
Anne, in the north aisle. There is an alms-house,
containing eleven apartments, the bequest of Mr.
Hubert Quick, with a curious inscription and en-
graving, on a brass plate, over the door. The shore,
in the vicinity of Minehead, is abundantly supplied
with curiosities ; one of which is a vast collection
of roots of largo trees, which shoot up several inches
above the surface of the sand ; though these are per-
fectly soft, and easily crumbled, the texture of the
wood is distinct ; and when divided by a section,
parallel to the grain, it is found to contain oak
leaves, and shells of the dottle kind, in a semi-
fossil state. The rocks in the neighbourhood abound
with a species of limpet, which affords a very curi-
ous liquid used in marking fine linen. At first, when
exposed to the sun upon linen, it is of a light green
shade; but becomes, after several other changes, a
deep purple. Being washed, and again exposed,
it is changed to a bright crimson colour, which no
subsequent washing can alter.
MUCKELNEY.] — See Langport.
NEMNET.] — There is, in this parish (eight miles
N. E. from Axbridge) a tumulus or barrow, of ex~
traordinary dimensions and construction. It extends
sixty yards in length, twenty in breadth, and fifteen
in height, its surface is covered with ash trees, briars,
and other shrubs. When opened, it was found to
be a structure of stones, supported on each side,
lengthwise, by a wall of thin flakes. The imme-
diate space contained two rows of cells, or cavities,
formed by very large stones, set edgewise. These
cells are entered from the south, and divided from
each other by vast stones, covered with others still
larger, by way of architrave. .In one, lay seven
skulls : and, in another, a great quantity of human
bones and horses' teeth; but no coins or other re-
liques in any of them.
PENSFOBB.] — Pensford, 27 miles N. N. E. from
Somerton, is joined to the village of Publow by an
old stone bridge, of three arches, over the Chew.
It stands in a well cultivated vale, and the scenery
around, varied by hanging orchards and detached
residences, is highly pleasing.
PORTBURY.] — Portbury, six miles W. by N. from
* Saxon Chronicle, An. 1052, page 166.
VOL. IT. — NO. 157.
Bristol, was a place of some note in the time of
the Romans ; an assertion proved by the number of
coins, and the massive foundations of buildings,
which have been discovered there. The shell of a
monastic foundation, venerably clad with ivy, is
still standing. The church of Portbury, remarkable
neither for elegance nor grandeur, contains no monu-
ments ; though many of the Berkeley family wei"e
interred in it.
PORTISHEAD.] — This parish, 8| miles W. N.W.
from Bristol, is for the most part level, but defended
on the north-east by a high ridge of mountains.
The church is adorned with a very handsome tower,
surmounted by elegant pinnacles, and the church-
yard contains a neat cross.
PORLCCK.] — The trade of Porlock, or Portlock,
situated on the Bristol channel, six miles W. from
Minehead, is very unimportant, consisting chiefly in
the importation of lime and coals from Wales ; the
town, however, makes some figure in the ancient
history of the country. It was a royal residence,
in the Saxon ages, and enjoyed many valuable pri-
vileges. In the tenth century, it was visited by the
Danes, who were attacked with such bravery, by
the inhabitants, that the greater part were slain,
and the remainder, compelled to fly to their ships.
Harold, Earl of Kent, invaded it, in the next cen-
tury, and traces of his encampment, and of the
devastations which lie committed, were visible at
the commencement of the last ; the trenches of the
former are yet very deep, and, in the'area, swords
and other weapons have frequently been found. The
recollection of these events is preserved by tradition
among the inhabitants, and their authority confirmed
by ancient records.* The scenery round Porlock
is beautiful and magnificent. Steep and lofty hills,
feathered with wood ; vallies highly cultivated, and
spotted with rural villas and cottages ; and a delight-
ful bay, in which rise several ridges of rocks, with
bold, irregularity to the height of two or three hun-
dred feet ; are its most striking features. The
Gothic church contains two curious monuments.
One of a knight templar and his lady, under an
arched canopy, supported by pillars ; the former in
complete armour, the latter habited in a close bod-
dice, loose robe, and a sort of mitred head-dress.
The othcrmonumeDt is the effigies of a knight, greatly
mutilated, his left arm bearing a shield, his right
grasping the hilt of his sword. Neither these, nor
an ancient tomb, on the north side, have any inscrip-
tion. A pompous, and superbly ornamented monu-
ment, records the memory ol Nathaniel Arundel,
S. T. B. rector of the parish, dated 1705.
SHEPTON MALLET.] — The manor of Shepton, 14
miles N. E. by N. from Somerton, and 1 15} W. by
S. from London, having been many ages ia the
possession of the Mallets, took the additional name
of Mallet. It is, at present, attached to the duchy
of Cornwall. The most remarkable work of art) ia
3K
222
SOMERSETSHIRE.
the town, is the market-cress, consisting of five
arches, and a large hexagonal pillar, in the centre,
which support a flat roof, surmounted by a lofty,
pyramidal spire. This cross was erected in 1500,
by Walter and Agnes de Buckland, who assigned
considerable property to the preservation of it.
Besides a church of the establishment, Shepton
Mallet has meeting-houses for the various classes
of dissenters, here extremely numerous. In the
intolerant times of Charles the Second, they assem-
bled cither in a retired house, or in a neighbouring
wood, and were guarded from the approach of in-
formers, by the stout courage of some hardy colliers
of their own persuasion. Dr. Walter Charleton,
physician in ordiuary to Charles the Second, and one
of the first members of the Royal Society, was born
at Shepton Mallet. He published " Chozea Ciigan-
tum," a work on that famous antiquity, Stone-
henge. This town was also the birth - place of
Simon Browne, a learned, but unfortunate dissent-
ing minister, born in 1680.*
SOMERTON.J — Somerton, 125^ miles W.S.W. from
London, was called by the Saxons Summerton,
which signifies pleasant, and it well deserves the
epithet. The soil is dry and fertile, and the sce-
nery, formed by hills cultivated to the top, and
rich, luxuriant vallies, is peculiarly beautiful. Seve-
ral Saxon monarchs held their courts here, and
John, King of France, was confined in the castle,
after his removal from that of Hertford. A part of
that building still remains, in a ruinous condition.
Somerton is supposed to have been a Roman citadel ;
and in 877, it was plundered and burnt, by the Danes.
The church is ancient, and adorned with an octan-
gular embattled tower, but contains nothing remark-
able.
STANTON DREW.] — The parish of Stanton Drew,
If mile W.S.W. from Pension), is remarkable
for a curious monument of antiquity. It consists of
the remains of four clusters of huge stones, which
form two circles, a parellelograrn, and an ellipsis.
The smaller of the two circles, formed by eight
stones, is within the other of fourteen. The oblong
of five stones stands between the two, and the
ellipsis, composed of seven, is at the south-east ex-
tremity ; the largest stones, one of which is twenty-
two feet in circumference, form the inner circle.
Other large stones are placed at a distance, and
* He entered on the pastoral office before he had completed
his twentieth year, yet he is said to have acquitted himself to
the satisfaction of his hearers. In 1716, he \\entto London, at
the request iff the Society of Protestant Dissenters, and con-
tinued his ministerial labours at the Old Jewry about seven
years, when, in 1723, he wa» attacked by a malady of a singular
nature, which never afterwards left him. He desistec! from all
the duties of his office, and could not be persuaded to join in
any act of worship, public or private, imagining that Almighty
God, by a singular instance of divine power, had, in a gradual
manner, annihilated in him the thinking substance, and utterly
divested him of consciousness: that though he retained the
human shape, and the faculty of speaking in a manner that
appeared to others rational, he had all the while no more
are supposed to be the out-works. Stukeley con-
tends, that it was a temple of the Druids ; Wood,
that it represents the Planetary system of Pytha-
goras, well-known and adopted by those intelli-
gent barbarians. Both these opinions are unsup-
ported by oral tradition, or written record, and the
real origin of this immenta work will continue
unknown.
STANTON PRIOR.] — Stanton Prior, five miles W.
S. W. from Bath, lies in a fine woody vale, and
is distinguished by a fine relic of antiquity, an
extensive camp, containing within its ramparts,
upwards of thirty acres. Tlw principal rampart,
one hundred and eighty yards long, forms a fine
terrace, and a ditch seven feet deep divides the hill
or knoll, pn which it stands, into two parts. The
coins found in and near this encampment evince its
Roman origin.
Medford Castle, the seat of Charles Conolly, Esq.
in the vicinity of Stanton Prior, is situated on a bold
projection of the hill on which it stands. This struc-
ture is surrounded by elegant and picturesque
terrace plantations ; and the exterior exhibits the
grandeur of ancient architecture, whilst the interior
combines the elegance and convenience of modern
embellishments.
STOGUMBER.] — Stogumber is situated among the
Quantock hills, 6| miles N .by E. from Wiveliscombe.
The church is a large edifice, ef a light and hand-
some appearance, and contains some monuments,
one of which only is worthy of notice. It is a
stately tomb, in honour of Sir George Sydenham,
whose effigies, clad in armour, lies on the entabla-
ture, in company with those of two wives, and that
of a third female, who kneels at their feet. Combe
Sydenham, the ancient mansion of the Sydenham
family, stands two miles from the church, present-
ing a fine -view of ruins shaded with ivy. The
centre of this building is adorned with a handsome
tower of proportional elevation, and the scenery
around unites to form one of the finest landscapes
in the county. Many Roman coins have been dis-
covered in the town and its vicinity ; and on an.
eminence near the church are two fortifications.
STOKE-COURCY.]— Near Stoke-Courcy, "1\ miles
N. W. by W. from Bridgewater, a battle was fought
in 845, between the Saxons, led on by Alston,
Bishop of Sherborne, and an army of Danish
notion of what he said than a parrot ; and very consistently with
I this, he looked upon himself as no longer "a moral agent; a
, subject of reward or punishment, During this abstraction of
; mind, he produced several works, displaying great powers of
• thought and reflection. In particular, two'delences of Revela-
, tion against the attacks of Woolston and of Tindal, which
j have generally been regarded as master-pieces of reasoning.
Having retired into the country, he could not be prevailed
j upon to use any kind- of exercise or recreation, and a compli-
i cation of disorders bringing on a mortification in his leg, he
died in 1732, in the lifty-second year of his age. He was
burie-l at Shepton-Mallei, where a monument is erected to
his memory.
marauders,
SOMERSETSHIRE.
marauders, in which the latter were defeated. A
few broken walls, and a moat,, are nil that remain
of the ancient mansion of the Decourcys. This
structure sustained two sieges ; one in the reign ot
Henry the Hid. when the violence and disaffection
of the owner obliged the King to issue a special
inantiate to the sheriff to Imve it dismantled. It is
probable he did not succeed, as it was fortified, many
years after, against Lord Bonville. The church ot
Stoke-Courcy was formerly part of a priory of Bene-
dictine monks, founded in the reign of Henry the
lid., fend suppressed in that of Henry the Vlth
It contains two monuments of the family of Vernai.
The village and mansion-house of Fairfield are
situated in the parish of Stoke- Convey ; the latter is
nearly in the form of a rhombus, open on one side,
with a square tower which projects from the middle
of the building. The scenery around is both beau-
tiful and varied.
STRINGS-TON.] — The parish of Stringston, 10 miles
N. W. by W. from Bridgewater, is chiefly remark-
able for a large Roman entrenchment, culled Doun-
borough Castle. The form of this camp is circular,
covered with oak coppice wood, among which may
be traced vestiges of apretorhim. Itis surrounded
by a double rampart and deep fosse. The church
of Stringston contains some modern monuments,
one of which is very elegant : it is constructed of
white and grey marble ; the lower part of the front
is in the shape of an altar, upon which sits a weeping
nymph, in flowing drapery, embracing an urn with
her right arm, and, with her, left drying her tears.
It is in memory of John St. Albin, Esq. of Alfox-
ton, who died on the 10th of Nov. 1768.
TAUNTON.] — Taunton, anciently called Thono-
dinium, or the town on the River Tone, by which
it is watered, is 18 miles W. by S. from Somerton,
and 141J W. by 8. from London. It is an ancient
borough by prescription, and subsequently by
charter. The corporation consists of a mayor, a
recorder, a justice of the peace, two aldermen,
twenty-four capital burgesses, a town clerk, two
constables, two portreves, and two Serjeants at.
mace. There are also six gentlemen, justices of tire
peace at large, with powers to act within the
borough. The officers have no power to arrest, nor
is there a prison in the town, except a bridewell for
vagrants. The two members of parliament are
elected by such of the inhabitants, residing within
the borough, as are pntwoblei «, and do not recerve
alms or charity. — This town has ever been regarded
as one of the principal in this county. Even before
the modern improvements, it was considered as well
built. Its streets are wide and airy, extending over
a considerable portion of groun'd. Jlost of the
houses have small gardens in front. The surround-
ing country is the most delightful imaginable. The
fertility of its soil, and the temperature of its climate,
are greatly boasted of by the peasantry ; indeed, so
much so, that it is become proverbial to say, "where
•should I be born else but in Taunton Dean ?" that
is, the Vale of Taunton. In the >year 1086, two
large earthern pitchers, 'full of Roman coins, were
found in a ploughed field in this neighbourhood.
Some years previously there were also found a num-
ber of Roman coins, and other antiquities, in the
foundations of an old house, near the castle. Taun-
ton is supposed, by some, to have been a Roman
station ; and it is certain, that it was a 'place of
note in "the time of the Saxons. Ina, king of the
West Saxons, built a castle here, so early as the
year 700. Here, it is said, be held the first great
council of his kingdom, and here was framed h?s
celebrnted code of laws. This castle was destroyed
in 72-2, by his queen Ethelburga, who prevailed on
him to resign his crown to her brother, EthehrH,
and retire to a monastery, at Rome, vfhere he died.
The queen also renounced the world, and beeartYe'a
nun in the abbey of Barking, tit' which she was soon
after elected abbess. The etostle, after the Cdn-
qtiest, was rebuilt by one of the bishops of Winches-
ter. It underwent many alterations and repairs, by
succeeding bishops of Winchester, dud is now con-
verted to various uses. The west wing is tolerably
entire, though supposed to be part of the original
building. The principal part of the castle was the
great hall, which is one hundred and nineteen feet
and a half long, by thirty feet and a half broad, and
twenty feet five inches high. It is now the place in
which the Lent assizes, the cottnty sessions, and the
courts of the bishops of Winchester, are held.
There are also in this castle an exchequer 'room,
where the records of Taunton Dean lands rtre kept,
a large hall, formerly used as an assembly-room,
sometimes for a theatre, an armoury, a dungeon,
and various other purposes. The assize hall, and
some other parts of this building, were repaired, and
elegantly fitted up, in the end of la£t century, by Sir
Benjamin Hammet, who also, at his own exprnCe, .
filled up the moat, laid out the ground around the
castle, and converted many parts of the ruins into
respectable houses.
A handsome and commodious market-house, with
several apartments, stands in the centre of the town,
lu the lower part, besides the town-hall, is a coffee-
room, furnished with the newspapers, &c. for the
use of which gentlemen pay a certain annual sub-
scription. On the first floor is an elegant assembly-
room, fifty feet long and thirty wide ; and in the
upper floor is a handsome room, supplied with ft.
billiard-table.— On each side of this house is a large
wing, or arcade, for the accommodation of the farm-
ers and tradesmen. In front is a spacious area, on
which are erected moveable shambles, in rows. This
area is enclosed by chain posts. In the middle of
it, to the north, is a noble pavement, of broad stones,
two hundred ami sixteen feet in length, and eighteen
broad, called the Parade. — The tree igrammar-
school of this town was founded, in the reign of
Henry the Seventh, by Richard R'ose, bishop of
Winchester. Adjoining is a house for the master.
Here are two alms-houses. The largest, at East-
gate,
224
SOMERSETSHIRE.
gate, was founded by Robert Gray, Esq. who be- !
queathed a considerable sum of money, to be laid
out in lands, for tbe benefit of tin's charity. Besides
a chapel and school, here are seventeen separate
apartments, having small gardens appended to each ;
and the institution supports a reader or master, eight
poor men, and ten poor women. The master is
bound to teach ten poor children to read and write.
The other alms-house, on the north side of Hammet
Street, contains a chapel, and thirteen separate
rooms, for the accommodation of as many poor men.
One of their number, who can read and write, is
always chosen president, or reader. The govern-
ment is in the hands of twenty-two governors, who
must all be gentlemen resident in Taunton, or within
twelve miles of it. — Taunton Hospital, perhaps, in
point of plan in building, the first in the county, is
a square ninety feet on each side, and having semi-
circular entrances, leading to a suite of rooms, and
meeting in an open circular court in the centre of the
building. The different floors are divided into apart-
ments suitable to the object of the institution, which
is the reception and benefit of the diseased. This
building stands on a delightful eminence, at a short
distance from the town. — The Bridewell, situated
at the Tone bridge, was built by Sir Benjamin Ham-
met, at his own expence. Adjoining is a house
for the keeper.
At an early period, here was a priory of black
canons, founded by William Giffard, bishop of Win-
chester, about sixty yards from the spot on which
the farm-house now called the Priory stands. —
There were also several chapels and chauntries
dependent on the mother church. There were like-
wise a house for white friars, and another for lepers.
• — The church of St. Mary Magdalen, near the centre
of the town, is an elegant and splendid building, in
the style of the florid Gothic, it is extremely spa-
cious and beautiful, having a lofty tower at one end,
of magnificent workmanship. It is surmounted by
four stately pinnacles, beautifully ornamented. The
height of the whole if one hundred and fifty-three
feet. The inside of this church is not less worthy
of attention than its exterior structure. The roof
is extremely curious. In the centre aisle stands the
desk and pulpit, beautifully adorned with carved
work. Here are two handsome mural monuments ;
one of them in honour of Richard 1 1 nisli, Esq. who
founded the alms-houses on the north of Hammet
Street. The other is to the memory of Robert Gray,
founder of the other alms-house, whose effigies, in
his sheriff's robes, is represented upon it. The sub-
joined inscription appears beneath :
" Taunton bore him, London bred him,
Piety trained him, virtue led him,
Earth enriched him, heaven caressed him,
Taunton blest him, London blest him,
This thankful town, that mindful city
Share his piety and his pity ;
What lie gave, and how he gave it,
Ask the poor, and you shall have it.
Gentle reader, heaven may strike
Thy tender heart to do the like ;
And now thy eyes have read this story,
Give him the praise and heav'n the glory."
St. James's church is a strong, plain, ancient
building. At one end is a tower, with a good ring
of five bells, but much inferior in every other respect
to that of St. Mary Magdalen. — The dissenters have
several meeting-houses in this town.
Amongst the persons of note born in this town
were Samuel Daniel, an eminent poet and historian,
who flourished in the reigns of Elizabeth and James
the First ; Henry Grove, a learned presbyterian
clergyman, whose grandfather, Grove, was ejected
from a living in Devonshire, in the year ]f>62, for
non-conformity ; and Dr. Thomas Amory, also a
celebrated Presbyterian teacher, ^vho was born in
1700-J and died in 1774.
In the autumn of 1815, a mineral spring was dis-
covered at the entrance of Ashill Forest, between
Taunton and Chard, which has since been prepared
for the public benefit of individuals.
TICKENHAM.] — The whole of this parish (9| miles
W. by S. from Bristol,) was formerly a deep morass;
and, even now, the only safe road to it, is a raised
causeway. The font in the church is a square cis-
tern, supported by five pillars. That building con-
tains, besides, a tomb on which repose the effigies
of two knights and a female ; the inscription is en-
tirely defaced. Near the church, are the ruins of
Tickenham Court. The summit of a ridge of hills
that overlook the village, is crowned by a Roman
entrenchment of an oval form, surrounded by a large
double rampart, of loose lime-stone.
WALTON IN GORDANO.] — The scenery of this
parish, (ll| miles W. from Bristol,) like that of
many others which lie near the Bristol Channel, is
very picturesque. The hills of Clevedon, on one
of which Walton is situated, are covered on each
side with beautiful seats, villages, and pasture
grounds. Walton Castle, on the summit, is a ruin
of an octagonal form, embattled, and adorned at
each angle, with a small turret. The ruins of the
old parish church are not far distant, and near the
spot where the village anciently stood. A fine
mitred arch forms the entrance to the nave, and
contains relics of the ancient forms of religion. The
new church is in the village.
WATCHET.] — Watchet, five miles E. from Dun-
ster, and 157£ W. by S. from London, an ancient
sea-port and borough, is situated in a delightful
vale, in the parish of St. Decuman. The Danes
landed here in 918, but were routed, with immense
slaughter, by the inhabitants. The scene of this
victory is marked by three large tumuli, called
Grab-barrows, in which have been discovered cells,
containing human bones and weapons of war. They
returned twice, and succeeded, once in burning the
town, and at their third landing, in putting all the
inhabitants to the sword.
WELLINGTON.
SOMERSETSHIRE.
225
WELLINGTON.]— Wellington, 20 miles W. S. W.
from Somerton, and 149| W. S. W. from London,
derives more importance, from the illustrious war-
rior who bears its name, ns the guerdon of his
achievements, than from its own magnitude or
opulence.* It was, however, once a borough, and
enjoyed various privileges. At present, it is a place
of considerable trade and manufacture. f The church
is a handsome building, with an embattled tower,
decorated with Gothic pinnacles of beautiful work-
manship, and containing a clock and eight bells.
Sir John Popuara, one of the most upright and able
judges that ever sat upon the bench, and a native
of Huntwith, is here interred; his tomb is magni-
ficent, and adorned with his effigies and that of his
lady ; he, in his robes of office, she, in the dress of
her time; and over both a superb canopy, finely
ornamented with the family arms and other decora-
tions. Sir John founded an hospital at Wellington,
and endowed it \\itli an estate in hind, for twelve
old men and women ; and for the education of two
children. The church contains several other monu-
ments.
WELLS.]— The city of Wells, 13 miles N. by E.
from Somerton, and 121 W. by S. from London,
owes its existence to the piety of lua, king of the
West Saxons, who founded a collegiate church here,
as early as the year 704. It was twice incorporated ;
once, in the reign of Richard I., whose charter was
confirmed by John, and again in the reign of Eliza-
beth. The name " Wells" is derived from a remark-
able spring, called St. Andrew's Well, which rises
near. the episcopal palace, and is supposed to pos-
sess medicinal properties. The ancient appellations
are Tethiscine, Tadingtone, or Tedington, Theodo-
rudunum, Welvve, Wielea, and Foiiticuli. Wells
is pleasantly situated under the Mendip hills, which
shelter it from the northern blast. The city, though
small, is populous, and, generally well laid out.
The streets are clean and commodious; the build-
ings, neat, and often elegant ; and the noble cathe- i
dral is grand and impressive. Near the site of a j
curious ancient cross, erected on stone pillars, and
crowned by a turret, now demolished, stands the
city reservoir ; a handsome building, built by Bishop i
Beckington, and supplied by an aqueduct also his
* On Monday, the 20lh of October, 1817, tl.e ceremony took
place of laying the foundation of the monument lo be erected
on Blackdown-hill, in lliis county, in honour of the Duke of
Wellington. A grand procession, preceeded by several bands
of music, troops of yeomanry and artillerymen, and a numerous
train of noblemen's and gentlemen's carriages, moved from the
centre of the town of Wellington, towards the hill. On its
arrival at the spot, Lord Somerville delivered an address, and
then proceeded to deposit in a recess in the centre of the foun-
daiion slone, coins of every current denomination of the present
n-ign ; which were enclosed in a thick glass case, and covered
uiih a brass plate with a suitable inscription. This was then
gradually lowered lo its destined bed, amidst discharges of
i annon, and acclamations of ten thousand persons, who, joining
in the national anthem of " God save the King," proclaimed
the accomplishment of this interesting ceremony.
VOL IV. — NO. 157.
! donation. Wells was created a bishop's see hi
905, two hundred years after the foundation of its
college, which then continued in its original state.
The first stone of the cathedral was laid by the
' second diocesan, Wift'cline, who possessed much
i learning, and more piety. It was then, and is still,
| considered one of the most splendid specimens of
church architecture, in the kingdom. It is cruci-
: form, 380 feet long, and 130 broad ; from the centre
f rises a quadrangular tower, 160 feet high, the
base of which rests on four broad arches. Behind
the altar, a chapel, consecrated to the Virgin, and
; ornamented with Gothic windows, one of the most
finished and splendid pieces of Gothic architecture
in the world, is Hanked by two small towers, and
adorned with a great variety of figures, of exquisite
: carved workmanship, placed in ormmented niches,
or canopies, which are supported by elegant, slender
! pillars of beautiful polished marble. At the top are
i tlie images of the twelve apostles, and below them
I are hierurchs, popes, princes, and bishops. One
] whole line of this front is occupied by the display or
a curious representation of the resurrection, in which
are expressed the various attitudes of the resusci-
j tated bodies, emerging from their earthly mansions.
j The larger statues, which adorn the lower part of
i this front, are also interspersed with other scriptural
representations, pourtrayed in groups of high relief.
Each side of the great buttresses is filled with figures,
as large as life, of kings, queens, popes, cardinals,
and abbots. — The body of Ina, the pious founder, is
said to have been interred in the sacred fane, which
contains all that remains of many other illustrious
personages, laics and ecclesiastics. The cloistef^
a fine building, by Bishop Beckington, with the
school and exchequer, is on the south side. The
chapter-house is a building of octagonal form, 52
feet in diameter, and supported, in the centre, by a
clustered pillar. The cathedral contains many
chapels, in the greater part of which are monuments.
The alabaster effigies of Beckington, and the chapel,
in which it is placed, are of excellent design and
finished workmanship. A clock, the work of a monk
of Glastonbury, named Peter Lightfoot, one of the
most curious pieces of ancient mechanism extant,
is kept in a chapel, iti the north aisle. This tirae-
t The earliest historical account we have of Wellington com-
mences with the reign of Alfred, who bestowed it and some
other manors on Asser, who had been tutor to several of his
children. This Asser was afterwards advanced to the see of
Sherborne, and died, possessed of that dignity, in the year S83.
Alter his death, this manor reverted to the king, who con-
ferred it on the first bishop of Wells, for the support of the
episcopal honour of himself and his successors. In their hands
it continued till the reign of Edward the Sixth, when it became
the property of the Duke of Somerset, by purchase from Bishop
Barlow. On the duke's attainder, it was granted to Sir James
Kiillertoi) and James Maxwell, who soon after sold it to feoffes,
in trust for Sir Francis, son to Sir John Popham, lord chief
justice of England, whose heirs possessed it during several
descents. It afterwards became the property of Edward
Sawyer, Esq.
3 i- piece
220
SOMERSETSHIRE.
piece is an astronomical dial, surmounted by a bar-
rier of small figures on horseback, representing a
tournament, in which the knights are hurried round,
by a movement of the machinery, in rapid circum-
volutions.
A double row of houses, with a chapel at the
upper end, and a hall at the court-gate, is called,
the College of Vicars, and was founded by Ralph
cle Salopia. The Bishop's Palace stands southward
from the cathedral. Its walls, flanked by redoubts
and half-moons, encompass a space of seven acres,
and are surrounded by a moat. The appearance of
the mansion, m toto, is rather that ot a fortified i
castle, than of an episcopal palace : a part of this j
extensive range of buildings is iu ruins, among ;
which is the great hall 120 feet long, and 70 broad,
demolished for the sake of the lead that covered its
roof. St. Cuthbert's church, an hospital, two alms-
houses, and a charity school for forty boys and girls,
are worthy of the city that contains Wells cathe-
dral.— The history of Wells is that of its religious
foundations. All the grandeur which it possesses,
and the changes which have happened, have been
effected by its pious pastors. Harold, successor to
Edward the Confessor, had, whilst yet a subject,
ravaged the county of Somerset, despoiled the
cathedral of its ornaments, and expelled the canons,
to revenge the confiscation of liis estates, and tlie
banishment of his person ; and Giso, then bishop,
having carried his complaints to the foot of the
throne, had obtained some redress ; but when Harold
possessed himself oT the regal dignity, Giso was
sent into exile, where he continued till the Conquest.
His successor, Villulo, had been a physician, and
had practised in Bath. Such was his attachment to
that city that he removed the episcopal seat thither,
and styled himself Bishop of Bath, in which he was
imitated by several successors ; till the contentions
between the inhabitants of Wells and Bath, concern-
ing the removal, running high, Robert was con-
strained to declare himself Bishop of Batli and
Wells. Savaricas called himself " Bishop of Glas-
tonbury," having removed the episcopal seat thither.*
Wokey Hole deserves to be mentioned among the
Mendip caverns. The approach to it is extremely
picturesque. In the side of the hill appears a semi-
elliptic excavation, two hundred feet wide ; at the
bottom a natural arch thirty feet high and forty
broad, from which issues a clear rapid stream, and.
rushes impetuously over a rocky channel. On one
* Of the succeeding bishops of this city, with the exceptions
of Ralph cle Salopia, Beckington, Wolsey, and Godwin,
nothing is mentioned in the history of Wells worthy of notice.
The two former were the most munificent patrons of that see.
Godwin was celebrated for his learning and the part he took in
the Reformation. The glory and misfortunes of Wolsey, the
prime minister and favourite of Henry, are known to every
one. — Savaricus, like his predecessors, Villula and Lewes, was
of a restless and intriguing disposition. When Richard the
First was confined, in his return from Palestine, by the emperor
side of it is a terrace, leading to the cavern's mouth,
which is narrow; but soon opens into a spacious
vault, eighty feet high, the roof and sides of which
are encrusted with sparry concretions. The water
dropping from the roof has formed large petrifac-
tions and spars clear as crystal. Below this is ano-
ther vault, somewhat smaller ; and lower still, a
craggy, irregular passage, opens into an area, nearly
forty yards in diameter, with a roof like an immense
chimney. The cavern extends much further, but
the passage is low and obstructed by fallen masses
of rock. The villagers fancy many apartments,
utensils, and animals ; and the petrified figure of a
witch, whom they suppose to have formerly lived in
this cavern. A large oblong plate of lead was dug
up at Wokey, in the reign of Henry VIII., which
had formerly been affixed to one of the trophies
erected by the Emperor Claudius, to commemorate
the final overthrow of theCangi by the Praetor Os-
torius Scapula, in the year 49. Upon this plate was
the inscription,
TI. CLAVDIVS. CAE
SAR. AVG. P. M.
TRIB. P. VIII. IMP.
XVI. DE BRITAN.
Every Englishman is free to work in the Mendip
hills until he has forfeited his right by stealing any
of the working tools, which are frequently left ex-
posed. A whimsical additional punishment is in-
flicted, besides the forfeiture of his share in this
immunity attached to his birth-right ; the delinquent
is shut up in one of the slight huts common on the
hills, which, being surrounded by dry fern and other
combustibles, is set on fire, and he is left to escape
as he can.
WESTON ZOVLAND.] — Wcston Zoyland, four miles
E.S.E. from Bridgewater, is washed by the Parret.
After the battle of Langport, General Fairfax drew
up his array on a spot called Penny Pound, near
this village. Here also the Duke of Monmouth
engaged the king's forces, under Lord Feversham,
whose conduct to his prisoners was not unworthy
of hisco-adjutors, the infamous Kirke and Jefferies.
A person, who was remarkably swift of foot, was
prevailed upon, by a promise of pardon, to entertain
the general 'with an exhibition of his speed. Having
stripped himself naked, a halter was put round his
neck, one end of which was fastened to the neck of
a horse. They started at a place called Bussex
Rhine, and ran to Brintsfield Bridge, somewhat
of Germany, he interested himself in that event with no other,
view but those of temporary aggrandisement to himself. Being
related to the emperor, he insisted on a promise from Richard,
previous to his release, lhat the abbacy of Glastonbury, then
vacant, should be thenceforth annexed to the bishopric of Bath
and Wells. To effect this, he engaged to give iip the city ef
Bath ; and, transferring the episcopal seat to Glastonbury,
styled himself " Bishop of Glvistonbury," till his death. He
was buried in Bath, and had an epitaph, expressive of his
rambling disposition, engraved upon his tomb..
more
^SOMERSETSHIRE.
227
more than half a mile. The man was however hang-
«d. Tlie church of Weston has a stately tower,
which may be seen at a great distance.
WIDCOMBE.] — In the parish of Widcombe, 1|
mile S. E. by S. from Bath, is Prior Park, the man-
sion of Ralph Allen, Esq. the ' Allwortliy' of Field-
ing's novel. The picture which he has drawn of
the scene of his hero's early years, is almost that of
Mr. Allen's residence. The mansion stands on an
eminence, and is built of Bath stone. The style is
Corinthian, raised on a rustic basement, and sur-
mounted by a balustrade. From the plane of the
centre, a magnificent portico projects, supported
by six large and elegant pillars. The only object
which Fielding has omitted in his description, is a
splendid Palladian bridge at the bottom of the
pleasure grounds. Mr. Allen, sprung from humble
parents, inherited little from his ancestors, except
a decent education ; but nature had given him a
clear head, deep penetration, and an excellent heart.
With these qualifications he went to Bath, where he
had the good fortune to attract the regards of the
daughter of Field Marshal Wade. The young people
were married, and Allen was introduced by his father-
in-law into the corporation. This was the first grade
of his advancement ; but, by the same interest, he se-
cured the farming of the cross-posts throughout the
kingdom ; by which he cleared more than 20,000/.
per annum. Enriched by this and other lucrative con-
cerns, he gradually acquired complete controul over
the city, and directed the members of the corporation
in their choice of a representative. Prior Park was
the resort of the literati of the age, among whom
was Pope. That irritable man is said to have been
exasperated by a refusal of Mr. Allen, to grant the
use of a mansion at Bath -Hampton, to his friend
Mrs. Martha Blount ; and to have carried his re-
sentment so fur as to insert, in his will, an order
to his executors to pay Mr. Allen the sum of ISO/,
the amount, (as he apprehended) of the expence
attending his accomuiodatidn at Prior Park : both
these assertions, are untrue. Pope, as appears by
his letters, kept up this friendship till his death.
* On the norlh side are the following lines, written by William
Cartwright, in the year 1643.
" Whi-n nowf the incens'd rebels proudly came
Down like a torrent, without bark or dam ;
When undeserv'd success urg'd on their force,
That thunder must come down to stop their course,
Or Grenville must step in ; then Grenville stood,
And with himself oppos'd, and check'd the flood.
Conquer, or death ! was all his thought, so fire
Either o'ercomes, or does itself expire.
His courage work'd like flames, cast heat about,
Here, there, on this, on that side, none gave out.
Not any pike in that renowned stand,
But took new force from his inspiiing hand ;
Soldier encourag'd soldier, man urg'd man,
And he urg'd all ; so far example can.
Hurt upon hurt, wound upon wound did fall,
He was the butt, the mark, the aim of all.
His soul this while retired from cell to cell,
At last flew up from all, and then he fell j
Lansdovvn Hill, the scene of a battle, in 1643,
between the royalists under the Marquis of Hert-
ford, and the parliamentary forces under Sir Wil-
liam Waller, is in the neighbourhood of Widcombe.
A superb monument has been erected to the memory
of Sir Bevil Grenville, near the spot where be fell ;
the sides of which are adorned with the arms of
Grenville, and the royal arms of England, some
warlike trophies, and a e'ulogy by Lord Clarendon,
with two inscriptions in verse.* This monument
stands on a square of twenty-one feet, and near the
remains of a Saxon fortification. The view from
this site is extensive and delightful, comprising the
cities of Bath and Bristol, with the river Avon at
its confluence with the Severn, and the Bloreni'h
and Sugar - Loaf Mountains. The herbage, on
Lansdown, is accounted the most delicate for fat-
tening sheep in the western part of the island.
WILLITON.J — See Decuman.
WINCAUNTON.] — Wincaunton, 17 miles E. from
Somerton, and 108| W. by S. from London, is a
small, but neat town, situated on the western decli-
vity of a hill, which is well-wooded and cultivated.
The church is a large edifice, plain in its exterior,
but handsome within. The town is very ancient ;
about 80 years since, an urn was found, filled with
Roman coins. The Saxon Thanes were long in pos-
session of this town. After the Conquest it fell into
the hands of the Sevels, Lords of Castle Gary,
with which manor it regularly passed through that
family, the family of the St. Maurs, and the Zouches,
till, by the attainder of John Lord /ouch and St.
Maur, in the reign of Henry the Seventh, it lapsed
to the crown, and was granted by that monarch to
Giles Lord Daubeny. The manor, however, still
continues in the family of the Seymours. Marsh
Court, the ancient seat of the Seymours and
Zouches, is situated about three miles distant from
the town. — The first blood was shed at Wincaunton
during the Revolution of 1668, by the Prince of
Orange, who attacked and put to the sword, a party
of the king's dragoons.
WIVELISCOMBE.] — Wiveliscombe, 25 miles W. from
But the devoted stand, enrag'd the more
From that his fate, plied hotter than before.
And, proud to fall with him, swore not to yield.
Each sought an honour'd grave and gain'd the field.
Thus, he being fallen, his actions fought anew,
And the dead conquer* d whilst the living flew."
These lines follow on the same side :
" Thus slain.thy valiant ancestor did lie,
When his own bark a navy did defy.
When now encompass'd round, the victor stood.
And bath'd his pinnace in his conqu'ring blood,
Till all his purple current, dried and spent,
He fell, and made the waves his monument ;
Where shall the next famed Grenville's ashes stand?
Thy grandsire * fills the seas, and thou the laud."
Martin Uewellent
* Six Richard Grenville.
Somerton,
228
SOMERSETSHIRE.
Somerton, and 122 W. S. W. from London, was of
some importance, when the Romans were in Britain,
as appears by a number of coins that have been
found here ; and by the remains of an encampment,
on a hill about a mile from the town, where also
coins have been discovered. An episcopal palace
was built at Wiveliscombe, in the thirteenth cen-
tury, by one of the bishops of Wells. It is now in
ruins.
WOKEY.]— See Wells.
WOTTON COURTNEY.] — Wotton Courtneyj a
small parish worthy of notice on account of the
beauty of its situation, lies on the southern slope of
a lofty ridge of hills that bounds the parishes of
Minehead and Dunster, 3| miles W. from the latter.
The church stands on an eminence above the village ;
three lofty arches separate the nave from the aisle.
On the top of the pillars are statues, in niches, finely
embellished with Gothic ornaments.
WRINGTON.] — The tower of Wrington church,
(6| miles N.N.E. from Axbridge) one of the finest
in the kingdom, is 140 feet high. The four angles
at the top are adorned with four turrets, on each of
•which are four elegant Gothic pinnacles, fifteen feet
in height. The church contains several neat monu-
ments, and one, remarkable for its elegance, erected
in honour of Henry Waterland, LL.D. Prebendary
of Bristol. It is of white, and Sienna marble. —
The streets of Wrington are irregular, and many of
the houses thatched. An humble cottage in this
parish, was the birth-place of John Locke, whose
rich talents, and sound philosophy, hare elevated
* Locke was born in 1632. His father was a gentleman of
some property, who served, and bore a captain's commission
in the parliamentary army. At the proper age, he became a
pupil in Westminster school ; whence lie removed to Christ
Church, Oxford. In 1655, he took his degrees, in aits, and
three years afterwards applied himself to the study of medicine.
Having obtained a diploma, he entered upon the practice of
his profession, in which he was successful. His own declining
health,, however, induced him to accept an oiler of Sir William
Swan, to take him to Germany as his secretary. He returned
in one year, and, resuming his profession, then first became
known to Lord Ashley, afterwards Earl of Shaftesbury. By
that nobleman's advice, he entered on the study of politics,
and making a rapid progress in his new pursuit, was thought
worthy to be consulted by his patron on matters of the highest
importance. During his relaxation from the duties attached to
his office of Secretary to the Board of Trade, he began to form
the plan of his "Essay on the Human Understanding," which
he communicated to Mr. Herbert, afterwards Earl of Pem-
broke, and having followed Lord Shaftesbury in his flight to Hol-
land, there completed it. Locke was suspected of being a con-
federate in the treason of Shaftesbury , and was, in consequence,
deprived of his student's place at Christ Church : he was even
demanded by the English Envoy. At the Revolution, he re-
turned to his native soil, and could have easily obtained a consi-
derable post, but he contented himself with that of commissioner
of appeals, and accepted the invitation of Sir Francis and Lady
him to a pre-eminent grade in the scale of human
excellence.*
YEOVIL.] — Yeovil, nine miles S. S. E. from So-»
merton, and 122 W. S. W. from London, derives
its name from the river Yeo, or Ivel, which passes
it under a stone bridge of three arches. It is pro-
bable that Yeovil was a town in the time of the
Roman empire in Britain, as many coins and some
tesselatecl pavements have been discovered here. —
The church is a handsome Gothic building, contain-
ing a fine chandelier, and an altar-niece, which
forms a kind of entablature, supported by pillars of
the Corinthian order. The church-yard is large,
and contains many old tombs and grave-stones. The
market-house is supported by stone-pillars, in the
middle of which are the remains of an ancient cross.
Yeovil is a borough, governed by a port-reeve and
eleven burgesses. The former is annually chosen
from among the latter. The town seal is ancient and
curious. Here is a chalybeate spring of some im-
portance.
YEOVILTON.] — In the reign of Henry the Vlth,
Yeovilton, two miles E. from Ilchester, was devised
by William do Botreaux to the prior and convent of"
St. Peter's at Bath, to celebrate mass for the good
estate of the King, Queen Margaret, and Edward
Prince of Wales, as well as for himself and lady.f
The church of Yeovilton has a well-built tower, and
the arms of B. Beckington stained on one of the
windows, by which it would appear that he either
built or repaired it.
Masham, to occupy an apartment in their country seatat Gates.
Here he spent the greater part of his afterlife, engaged in diffe-
rent branches of philosophical pursuit : he died on the 28th of
October, 1704, aged 73. His remains were interred in the
church of Gates, and a monument was erected to his memory,
with an inscription upon it, written by himself. Queen Caro-
line, consort of George the Second, placed his bust in the
pavilion of philosophy, with those of Bacon, Newton, and
Clarke. A monument has been proposed, to be erected to his
memory and fame in St. Paul's Cathedral.
f The style of the Botreaux will is somewhat curious. One
clause of it runs thus : — " Each priest, monk, or secular, saying
mass weekly, shall toll a bell in that monastery thrice (the said
bell to be called Botreaux bell) and at the introite of the mass
shall say, with a loud voice, ' ye shall pray for the good estate
of our sovereign lord, King Henry the Sixth, and of our sove-
reign lady, the Queen, and of Prince Edward ; and of William
Lord Botreaux, and Margaret his wife, while they live, and
for their souls after they be departed out of thi5 world ; and fur
the soul of Elisabeth, late the wife of the said William Lord
Botreaux ; and tor his fader's soul and his modyr's soul, anil
his grand-fader's soul and his grandam's ; and for all the snuls,
the said lord will assign them, to pray for in writing ; and for
all his ancestors' souls, and christen souls pater nosier thrice,
and ave maria, with this psalm, de profundis tlamavi, &c.
with a low voice."
TABLK
SOMERSETSHIRE.
229
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SOMERSETSHIRE,
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TABLE OF DISTANCES.
The Names of tJte respective Towns are on the top and side, and the square where loth meet give% the Distance.
AxbricU
ij
tjtance from London Mites 130
liaili
28 Bath
1
10)>
2
24
Brut
Ml...
...110
18 4C
27
.
Bridgewat
. .. . 130
232i
24
Castle-Cai
4450
3(
.>:
27
Char
d
140
3742
'.!,
'*
83
a
Crewkerm
132
4668
5*
36
51
3S
40
Dulverton
166
4
jea
1
'.i
4735
14
!4|Dunster
158
26 12
1'.
.it
16
*0
36
64159
Fron
e 107
Glastonbury
1524
17
It
14
2£
>
44
3!
2C
' ) '
Glastonbin
v... ...136
2733
15
20
10
17
K
-i:,
43
,2
Ivelchestei
123
29,45
27
25
22
5
8
33
35
3624
13
8
llminste
r . .. . 133
28 3h
18
1':'
I",
1413
36j
352913
9
33'36
10
41
31
10
26
5
56
542522
12
23
20
Milborne P
or( 11/1
Milverton
33i55
5
38
IS
15
18
51
31
32
20
j,;
43
Milvertc
Mineheatl
4365
.VJ
->5
48
3746
15
2
61
41
45
37
V)
56
20 Mine
,cad . 162
Pensford
6
10
31
ii
1'2
46
3S
6257
1820
29
41
IS
W
4939
Pe
3440
22
27
1!)
10
5
38'40
33
19
7
5
8
IS
2542
36
Petherton South 129
4
18
7
-'-
8
32J25
5450
10
1!
15
27
18
1841
52
14
ISShcpton-Mallet 116
> i
31
13
17
10
20
14
41
4324
8
14
16
5
14
38
45
27
11 13 Somerton •• 1°C
HI
51
33
1
30
Hi
20
2423J45j27
24
r.
1'J
ii
8
25
17
3658
4o
8J37
14
33
182252!34
31
19
J-j
42 4
J4
52
244027 7 Wellington . . .. . 152
WelU
0
H)
1'.'
21
is
a!
27
4944
15
5
17
29
18
23
36
iti
i j
24 6 13 3:.? 39 Wells 122
w
29
i
10
(»
5J
24
57
53 17
JO
13
15
21
s
44
55
26
-74 l'> 16364^ 17 Wincaunton 108
;4
5fi
i.i
16
H
33
32
12
16
52
.J'
?5
23
2fi
Hi
3
18
50
284431 11 63" 46|Wivelisconibe 156
Yeovil
< »
38
15
25
14
17
9
47
ka
28
17
5
14
IS
934
5034
9 16 9 '633 2'' 1537 Yeovil ..122
Bristol
8
IS
21
3528
52
45 67
58
24
2«
i:.
r.
18
38
50
60 6
— ' "
422033 465321 3251 40'|Rristol 119
STAFFORDSHIKE.
STAFFORDSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.
THE inland county of Stafford, situated nearly
in the centre of the kingdom, is a long and
Barrow tract, something in the form of a rhomboid.
It is bounded, on the north, by Cheshire and Derby-
shire ; on the east, by Leicestershire ; on the west,
by Shropshire ; and, on the south, by Warwickshire
and Worcestershire. From N. N. E. to S. S. W. its
greatest length is about 60 miles ; and its greatest
readth, from Newton Salney to the Western point
of Terbey heath, near Market Drayton, in Shrop-
shire, is 38 miles. Its superficial contents, accord-
ing to the last official returns, are estimated at
765,410 square acres : of which 500,000 are arable,
about 100,000 pasture, and the remainder, waste,
•wood, water, $ic. — The climate of this county is
moist. The annual depth of rain is estimated at
ypwards of 30 inches, nearly 16 inciies more than
in London. During winter, the quantity of snow
which falls in the Moorlands, is very great ; a cir-
cumstance which contributes to the severe coldness
of those parts. Generally, the air is good ; but
in the northern parts, it is extremely sharp, and
the cold is more sensibly felt there, than in most
other counties. — The aspect of the county is various.
The middle and southern parts are nearly level ;
the hills of Dudeley and Sedgely, the Quartose and
Ragstone hills of Rowley, with those of Cleat and
Barbeacon are the most prominent exceptions to
this observation. The high grounds of the middle
district, including Cannock heath, were, in ancient
times, covered with oak. The northern division is
bleak and hilly ; few of its eminences, however,
attain any considerable elevation ; the loftiest are
Banster, and the Weever hills. Pitt's Survey of
Staffordshire contains the following view of the per-
pendicular elevation of particular spots above the
level of the Thames, at Brentford : —
Feet.
Banks of the Severn at Over Ashley ............... 60
• -- Tame at Taiiiwortli ..................... 150
Trent at its junction with the Dove 100
Summit of the Staffordshire Canal ............... 385
• -- the Birmingham Canal ............... 500
- -- the Wirley Canal at Essington-
wood new Colliery .......... , ...................
ecn
;
Feet.
Summit of Byshbury-hill 650
Barbeacon , 750
the highest peak of Rowley hill ... 900
the grand trunk Canal 420
a hill called Bunster, near 11am, in» 10_.
the Moorlands \ 120°
the Weever hills, and some other >
of the highest points in the Moorlands J
1500
MINERALS, FOSSILS, &c.] — Staffordshire is rich
in mineral productions. Upwards of 50,000 acres
have been ascertained to contain a store of coals
that would seem inexhaustible. In the southern
division of the county, the coal district extends, in
length, from Cannock heath to the neighbourhood of
Stourbridge, and, in breadth, from Wolrerhampton
to Walsall. This useful fossil is very abundant in
the neighbourhood of Newcastle : the strata now
wrought vary from eight to twelve yards in thick-
ness. A sort, called Candle or Cannel Coal, which
is capable of receiving a polish, is converted into
candlesticks, salts, and other useful and curious
articles ; and a kind called Peacock Coal, because
it exhibits the prismatic colours, is dug up at Haud-
ley Green. Limestone is not less plentiful than
coal. In all the northern division of the county,
but particularly at Caldon Low, and the Weever
hills, the lime-works are extensive. Lime is used
almost universally as a manure ; and great quan-
tities are sent out of the county to be applied to
purposes of building. Iron-ore is usually found
below the coal strata, and, like that fossil, in great
plenty. The principal works are at Wednesbury.
Tipton, Bilston, Sedgeley, and on the banks of th<
Birmingham canal. A copper-mine is wrought at
Mixon, near Leek ; but the most important one iy
on the estate of the Duke of Devonshire, at Ector
Hill. Both this metal and lead are found in othei
parts of the county ; and at Winston, Oak moor, am
Cheadle, smelting and brass works are carried on
There are quarries of free-stone, fit for purposes o
building, at Tixall, Wrottesley, Brewood park, Pen
deford, and Bilston. The coarser sorts are foun<
and wrought. in the vicinity of Sedgeley. Alabasle;
was formerly dug up, and still exists, in grea
plenty, on the banks of the Dove; of which tin
coars-
5k) j[5 40 3j5
. i ir./_.~ tfMfy,* ,„,.,••"••• .. „ :,T.,,:\Jl
/• i j* • i-"" * ' w// _,- ' fl**«*j« "••/ M»: ,.—
5^ LfsS"1 •••^is? *f "jfe..* fttBife^
- --. ,,
Sf^SSSS^
rr;,Jv-k%jii":'e*\./ J'S.VVl, /aiS :»< ',', ',,*_»j»a
^^f^S^Sj^^i^gf^a^^yTSsjaL «*«« /x-
^lB^|3fe£g ^^%^®tLT5^^
V?1 ^.raw'H.^.^FSF? ;^.:,^y :'3LJ^x^
**BJ^ fe3P7 V-^v' 1
t y","";-^- *^"Kn..^'?'-^
~rr>i syEjBc M • • — !_^^u
Iglongiliulf 5p\\>8 from jlOLauaoa 43
STAFFORDSHIRE.
233
Course kinds being pulverized and made into mortar,
were used for the floors of houses ; whilst the finer
sort, being of a solid and firm texture, was used in
paving churches, and in making tables, chimney-
pieces, and tomb-stones. Various kinds of marble,
as the ranee, of a white colour streaked with red,
the grey, and the jet black, of a considerable degree
of hardness, are the production of Staffordshire.
The finest potter's clay is found in this county.
Yellow and red ochres are among the earths ; and
a blue clay, used by glovers ; with black chalk, ami
a fine reddish earth under a rock near Ilimley Ilall,
esteemed little inferior to the red chalk of France.
Crystals are found in the limestone rocks near Dud-
ley castle ; and under Yelpersley Tor, a sort ot
stones that are entirely black, and receive s<> fine a
polish that they resemble black agate. Transparent
pebbles which are like diamonds, amethysts, and
natural crystals, are also found on Coven-heath and
Barrow-hill, and petrifactions are frequent in various
parts of the county.
LAKES, MEDICINAL SPRINGS, &c.] — The principal
lake in Staffordshire is Aquelate, about a mile long,
and half a mile broad ; Ladford Pool covers 00 acres.
A spring near the small river Tene, contains many
small bones apparently of birds ; and another, at
Caverswall turns a mill, within bow-shot of its
source. There are brine-pits at Weston, which
yield as good salt as any in the kingdom, and several
salt springs in other parts of the county. At Cod-
sail is a saltish sulphureous spring, formerly used
as a remedy for leprosy, and now, for the cure of
calcareous eruptions. St. Erasmus's Well, two miles
from Stafford, yields a sediment of which $ are salt.
The water of a well at Willoughbridge is clear as
crystal, and leaves no sediment from the evaporation
of several gallons ; it contains a volatile oil, which
lias been of essential use in the cure of many dis-
tempers.
PLANTS.] — The chief plants of this county, which
are but few in number, are mentioned in the list
below.*
RIVERS.] — The principal rivers, in this county,
are the Trent, the Dove, the Tame, and the Sow,
none of which are navigable within its limits. The
Trent, which has its rise at Newport, near Biddulph,
on the confines of Cheshire, is generally considered
the third for size and beauty, among the English
rivers. Its streams, bold, clear, and somewhat rapid,
* Aster Tripolium. Sea^Starwort : at Ingestre, in a place
called the Marsh, within two miles of Stafford,
near the place where the brine of itself breaks
out above-pound.
Arena nuda. Naked Oats, or Piicorn : in corn-fields.
Campanula Latifoliu. Giant Throatwort ; in the mountainous
part of this county.
Euphorbia Cliaracius. Red Spurge : on the paper-miH pool-
dam in Heywood park.
Fumaria Chmculato. Climing Fumitory : on the banks of
the river Trent, not far from VVolseley.
Lichen pyxidatus : Cocciferus. Red Liverwort, or Scarlet-
VOL. IV. — NO. 158.
waters some of the most fertile and best cultivated
districts in the island. In its course to Burton-
upon-'f rent, where it leaves Staffordshire, it passes
1 by Bucknal. Stoke, Stone, and Great Iluywood,
where it meets the united streams of the Peak and
the Sow ; it then passes Rndgley, King's Bromley,
(where it receives the tribute of the Blithe,) and
Wichnor, where it becomes the boundary of the
county, till it enters Derbyshire. The Dove, rising
near the point where the counties of Derby, Chester,
and Stafford meet, is the boundary of the eastern
side of the last as far as Burton, where it meets the
Trent. The stream of the Dove is rapid, and being
increased by many tributary rivulets, is of some
magnitude. Near Ham it is met by the Manifold,
which, rising near the source of the Dove, sinks
into the ground after a serpentine course of several
miles, at Ecton Hill, and emerges near their con-
fluence. The Tame enters Staffordshire at Tarn-
worth, whence it flows, through Eltbrd, to meet the
Trent on the confines of Derbyshire. It derives its
name from its slow course and unruffled appearance.
The Sow, which rises near Keel, and the Penk,
from the neighbourhood of Somerford, meeting neat
Stafford, fall into the Trent, near Tixall. The
Blythe, which falls into the Trent near King's Brom-
ley, is a considerable stream, rising in the neigh-
bourhood of Watley-moor. The Charnel flows in
a south-eastward direction, from the town of Leek,
till it meets the Dove near Rocester. The rivers of
this county are said to be twenty-four, besides a
multitude of rivulets. The principal of those which
we have not particularized are the Stour and the
Dane, neither of which can be properly said to be-
long to Staffordshire ; the latter only forming the
boundary of the county for a few miles, and the
former rising in Warwickshire.
CANALS.] — No county in England possesses the
means of distributing its productions by water-
carriage, in a more eminent degree, than Stafford-
shire. The Grand Trunk Canal, planned and exe-
cuted, by the celebrated engineer, Mr. Brindley, is
a direct channel of communication between the three
great sea-ports Bristol, Liverpool, and Hull. After
crossing Cheshire, it enters this county near Lawton,
where it flows through the Harecastle tunnel, and
proceeds by Newcastle, Stone, and Weston, to join
the Trent, at Wilden, in Derbyshire. Its whole
extent is 91 miles ; from its greatest elevation at
headed Chalice-moss: on mole-hills, in Cank-
wood, and in Fair Oak and VVolseley park.
L'jcopodiu.m claV atum. Club-moss, or Wolves-claw : on the
mountains.
Phallus impudictis. Stinking Morel, or Stink-horns : in the
park at Bentley, and lanes thereabout ; at Old-
fallings, and elsewhere, near Wolverhampton.
Sambucus Nigra & White-berried Elder ; in the hedges near
Combridge, in Rocester parish, plentifully.
Sorbus Domestica. The True Service, or Sorb: in the Moor-
lands.
Vaccinium Vitis idtea. Red Whorts, or Whottle berries : on
the mountains.
3 N Hawcastle,
231
STAFFORDSHIRE.
Harecastle, its fall on the northern side is 826 feet,
and on the southern 316 ; the former part being fur-
nished with 35 locks, the latter with 40. Its com-
mon breadth is 29 feet at the top, and Ifl at the
bottom ; its usual depth being- 4} feet. The chief
branch strikes off at Haywood, near the confluence
•of the rivers Sow and Trent, and, in its course to
the Severn, flows past Penkridge and Wolverharop-
ton. The Coventry and Oxford canal, leaving the
Grand Trunk at Fradley heath, proceeds by Whit-
lington to Fazeleg, whenee a cut branches to Bir-
mingham, and the collieries. The Wirley and Es-
sington canal, beginning at a place called Wirley
Bank, and passing over Essington-wood, and Snead-
comtnon, through Birchill and Lanehead, to Wed-
nesfield, where it joins the Birmingham canal, has
three branches ; one from Wolverhampton to Stow-
heath, and a second and third to Ashmore-park.
The Birmingham canal begins at that place, and
proceeds by Smethwick, West Bromwich, Tipton,
Bilston, and VVolverhampton, to join the Stafford-
shire and Worcester canal, a course of 22 miles, in
which it has three branches ; one to the collieries at
Wednesbury ; a second, near the town of Dudley
to Blackdelft, and Brockmore green, where it meets
a canal from Pensett's chace, and proceeds through
Wordsley, and over the Stour, to join the Severn
Jind Trent junction canal ; a third begins at the
confluence of the Stour with the Smestall, and
proceeds 'by Woollaston, to Stourbridge, where it
joins the Stour. Sir Nigel Gresley's canal extends
from Newcastle under Line to the coal mines in
Apedale. The proprietors were bound by the act
for its formation, to deliver coals at the former place
for the period of 21 years, at 5s. per ton, and for a
further period of 21 years at 5s. 6d. per ton. The
Dudley extension canal connects the Dudley canal
•with that of Birmingham, and passes by Nether/ton,
Windmill End, Come's wood, Hales Owen, and
the Leasowes ; a course of 10{ miles, in which
there are two tunnels, one nearly two miles long.
At Huddlesford, a cut has been formed to join the
Coventry with the- Wirley and Essington Canal,
which, with its branches, measures 34 j miles in length.
Sow., AGRICULTURE, &c.~l— This county exhibits
as great a variety of soils as any other in the king-
dom of equal extent. A strong clay is most common
in the hundred of Castleton ; in that portion of the
hundred of OfBow which lies north of the Trent,
and east ef the Tame ; and in the parishes of Pire-
hill and Totmanslow. The light anil sandy soil is
found chiefly in Ofliow Hundred, south of the Trc;it ;
and in Pattingham, Womburn, Himley, and King's
Swinford parishes. The limestone district is of
small extent, lying eastward from Farley, Kingsale,
and Warton in the hundred of Totmanslow. A
mixed loam is found in all the other parts of the
<;ounty. In some particular spots, peat forms the
-oil of meadow land, which, when properly drained,
becomes valuable pasture. The ashes of this turf
HTC used, as an excellent manure. This county
abounds with four or five sorts of marie, of which
a fine vein is found near Stafford castle, and in the
neighbourhood of Eccleshall. Tobacco-pipe clay is
found all over the county ; and several sorts of
potter's clay, of which one, of a dark bluish colour,
makes the best pots for glass-houses.
The most considerable part of the arable land, in
Staffordshire, is enclosed : there are not more than
1000 acres of open field. The size of the enclo-
sures is various ; usually from twenty to thirty
acres ; and they are fenced with white-thorn. The
farms, in this county, are moderately large, seldom
more than 500 acres ; of which the greater part are
held by leases of 21 years. A considerable part of
them have been exonerated from the oppressive pay-
ment of tythes in kind, by composition with the
tithe-holders. The usual crops of wheat, rye, bar-
ley, oats, beans, peas, &c. are obtained by the usual
courses, adapted to the soil. The county does not
seem to have any peculiar system. The old method
of sowing by broad -cast prevails, though drilling'
has made considerable progress. On light soils the
Norfolk system of cropping is adopted, and the
manure used is dung, or lime, for turnips which
are hoed by the hand, and consumed by sheep, IB.
folds. The hay-harvest begins in July, and is con-
ducted on the usual plan ; but it is usual with some
farmers, to leave a funnel in the middle of the
stacks, to afford a vent to the vapour, produced by
heating ; which is a disadvantage, as the effect of
that process is to give strength and soundness to the
hay. The cattle of this county are generally of the
long-horned breed ; the sheep are of various kinds1;
the grey-faced, without horns, which are natives of
Cannock heath, are of a moderate size, bearing fine
wool ; the black-faced, horned sheep, which are
peculiar to the commons, in the western part of tire
county, are light, but capable of improvement'; a
white-faced breed, with long wool, which are some-
times strong and heavy, and are thought the most
profitable in the county on waste land, feed on the
eastern parts of the moorlands ; and, finally, the old
and new Leicester are common in different districts.
These various breeds have been crossed, in various
ways, and have produced a diversity of flocks.
Calves and hogs are kept upon most farms ; and,
though Staffordshire cannot be called a feeding dis-
trict, it supplies great droves of fat- cattle and sheep
for the London markets. The rich pastures on
the banks of the Trent and the Dove, afford vast
quantities of butter and cheese to the neighbouring
markets.
WASTE AND WOODLANDS,&C.] — The extent of un-
cultivated lands, in this county, is very great,, and,
for the most part, capable of improvement. Much of
it was formerly covered with timber, with which the
county is still well stocked. Besides the estates of
Lord Bagot, at Abbot's Bromley, of the Earl ol
Uxbridge, at Beaudesert, and of Lord Dudley, at
Llienley, and the Chillingworfh estate, which art
covered with woods of \\ell-grown oak trees ^ the
parishei
STAFFORDSHIRE.
235
parishes of Wrottesley, Fisherwick, Enville Hilton,
and Eccleshall, have extensive and promising plan-
tations. The wastes are Cannock heath, Sutton
Coldfield, and several commons, in the south ; and,
in the northern part of the county, are Morredge,
Wetley, and Stanton-moors, with Hollington and
other heaths.
ETYMOLOGY.] — The Saxon name of this county
was Stalfordscyre, from the capital Stallbrd or
Stafford, which some suppose, is derived from the
river Sow, quasi Sovvford ; forcing for that purpose
a t into the word Sow, and transporting the town
three miles to the banks of that river. Camden says
that it was once called Betheney.
GENERAL HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, &c.] — This
county formed part of the dominion of the Cor-
nabii, or Cornavii, to the latest period of the exist-
ence of that tribe as an independent nation. The
Cangi are supposed by some to have possessed a
portion of the chace, or forest of Cannock ; but if
they did so, it was merely in the capacity of herds-
men or servants to the Cornabii. — When the Romans
pushed their conquests- into the interior, the terri-
tories of the Gornabii appear to have comprised,
besides Staffordshire, the counties of Chester, Salop,
Warwick, and Worcester. The Cornabii seem to
have continued the faithful friends and allies of the
Roman people ;• and, under their division of the
island, Staffordshire formed a portion of that part
denominates Flavia Cassarinsjs. N inner! and Tur-
mae, of this tribe, are frequently mentioned in the
Notitia as serving in the armies, of the latter empe-
rors. It is remarkable, however, that the appella-
tion Cornabii never afterwards occurs in English
history.
Under the Saxons, Staffordshire formed part of
the kingdom of Mercia, and contained several of its
principal towns. — In the neighbourhood of Lichfield,
is the forest of Cannock, the favourite chace of the
Mercian kings. — During the inroads of the Danes,
this county bore a considerable share of the calami-
ties of our island. Several sanguinary battles took
place between them and the Saxons, within the limits
of Mercia ; two in this part of Staffordshire ; the
one near Tettenhall, in 907, and the other at Wed -
neshall, in 911 ; in both of which the Saxons were
victorious. — At the time of the partition of England,
between Edmund Ironside and Canute, Staffordshire
fell to the latter. After the Conquest, the whole
estates of the Mercian Earls were divided by Wil-
liam among four of his principal followers, Hugh de
Montgomery, Earl of Arundel, Robert de Stafford,
Henry de Ferrars, and William Fitz Ansculph, the
last of whom held twenty-five manors in this county.
The other landholders besides the king were the
bishop of Chester, the abbies of Westminster and
Burton, the church of Rheirus, the canons of Staf-
ford and \Volverhampton, Earl Roger, &c. — IB the
reign of Henry the First, Robert de Belesme, Earl
of Shrewsbury, ravaged this county in support of
the pretensions of Robert Curthose the king's bro-
ther. — During the contentions between the houses
of York, and Lancaster, a decisive battle was fought
at Blore-heath, in this county. The Earl of Salis-
bury marching to join the Duke of York, who then
| lay at Ludlow in Shropshire, was intercepted at
| this place, by the royal army under Lord Audley,
who posted himself here for that purpose, by thb
express orders of Queen Margaret. Lord Audley's
forces amounted to ten thousand men, and had
besides the advantage of ohusing their position,
whereas the Yorkist troops did not exceed 5000
men, with all the incumbrances and disadvantages of
an army on its inarch. The Earl of Salisbury, to
obviate these difficulties, as much as possible, and
with the view of separating the royalists, and throw-
ing them off their guard, had recourse to stratagem.
Between the two armies ran a rivulet with very
steep banks. Feigning therefore a retreat, he in-
duced Lord Audley to order a precipitate pursuit.
The consequence was the division of his army by
the rivulet ; which the earl no sooner perceived than
he ordered his troops to face about, and commence
the attack. The vigour of the onset, and the sur-
prise and astonishment of the enemy, soon decided
the fortune of the day. Lord Audley himself, and
two thousand four hundred of the Cheshire gentle-
men whose loyalty and ardour had led them into the
van, fell in the action. The Queen, who beheld the
defeat of her army, from the tower of Muccleston
church, fled to Eccleshall Castle, -while 'Salisbury
proceeded, without further opposition, to the place of
his destination. — AtTutbury, as well as at Chartley,
Mary Queen of Scots, resided at different periods
during the time of her detention in England. At
the latter place her correspondence with the Pope
was- contrived and carried on. — Staffordshire, during
the great rebellion, in general supported the cause
of the parliament. The Dyotts of Lichfield, how-
ever, and many of the country gentlemen, were
conspicuous for their attachment to the house of
Stuart. Lichfield was taken and retaken several
times in the course of the war. In the neighbour-
hood of Stafford, the Earl of Northampton engaged
Sir John Gell, and Sir William Brereton, and after
a desperate rencounter, succeeded in compelling the
enemy to abandon the field. He himself however
being too eager in the pursuit, was surrounded by a
party of the republican horse and slain. This event
so discouraged the royalists that they fell back again
upon Stafford, which soon after surrendered to the
parliament, as did also Wolverhampton. — In the
year 1745, the Scotch rebels posted themselves at
Leek, to the great consternation of the inhabitants,
who feared the consequences of an action, between
them and the army of the Duke of Cumberland,
then stationed in the town of Stone. The rebels,
however, deemed it prudent to withdraw, without
hazarding an engagement.
Shaw, the historian of the county, is of opinion,
that, in the days of Druidism, the chief seat of the
arch-druid of Britain was situated in the vicinity
of
STAFFORDSHIRE.
of Sutton Colclfield, which anciently formed a portion
of the forest of Cank or Cannock. An extensive
common here still hears the name of Drood, or
Druid-heath. On this spot, it is supposed, the
people were annually accustomed to assemble to
have their disputes, civil and religious, finally de-
cided by the arch-druid. The words Cannock and
Coldfieid, though of Saxon origin, Mr. Shaw says,
bear an evident relation in meaning to druidical
religious rites. Besides these circumstances in sup-
port of this notion, there are two large areas, imme-
diately adjoining, which cannot be well accounted
for, except upon the supposition of their being the
summer and winter habitations of this sovereign
Druid. A third area of smaller dimensions at the
east end of the heath, may probably have been ap-
propriated for the reception of some of his more
illustrious attendants. Thesummitof Barbeacon hill,
adjoining, commands an open and extensive view
of Warwickshire, Leicestershire, Derbyshire, and
Worcestershire, besides several counties in Wales.
If, therefore, high hills were the points from which
by means of fire the*e priests gave notice to the
country, of their quarterly sacrifices, no place could
be more suitable to their purpose than this. — The
inhabitants of Staffordshire continued in Paganism,
till the reign of Penda ; and, subsequently, during
the earlier part of the reign of Wulfhere, the cause
of Christianity was greatly injured by the vigour
and enmity with which that Prince persecuted its
professors. However, in the end, he became a con-
vert to Christianity himself. His first act was to
appoint Trumhere, an English clergyman, to the
vacant see of Lichfield, which had been founded in
the reign of Oswy and Peadda. To this prelate
Juraman succeeded. The famous St. Chad, or St.
Ceadda, was next consecrated. About the year 669,
by this bishop the episcopal see of Mercia was
finally fixed at Liehfield. His successor, Winefred,
being deposed by the archbishop of Canterbury, the
bishopric was divided into five several dioceses,
Lichfield, Worcester, Hereford, Leicester, and
Sidnacester. — Offa required of Pope Adrian that
bis dominions should be governed by an archiepis-
copal power ; and, in compliance with this wish,
Lichfield was constituted an independent archbishop-
«-ic in 786. This city, however, only continued to
enjoy the distinction it had thus obtained, till the
death of Offa, when the archbishopric of Canter-
bury prevailed upon Leo, the then Pope, by a golden
bait, to reduce it once, more to its ancient rank within
the jurisdiction of his Hee. About the year 1067, the
bishopric was carried hence to Chester, on account
of the mean condition of the town. From Chester
it was removed a few years subsequent to Coventry,
where it continued, till, after a succession of 45 pre-
lates, Walter de Langton was unanimously chosen
bishop of Lichfield and Coventry. At the Refor-
mation, the cathedral of Lichfield was despoiled of
the rich shrine of St. Chad, and the see of Coventry
again disjoined from it. These two bishopricks re -
maincd separate till the era of the Restoratio.il, when
they again united in the person of the celebrated Dr
John Hacket, who was elevated to this dignity as a
reward for his pious heroism, during the persecu-
tion of the established church by the puritanical
party.
The Watling Street, and the Icknield Street,
pass through this county. The former enters it
out of Warwickshire, near Tamworth, and running
westward, passes into Shropshire, not far from
Brewood. The Icknield Street enters the county,
from Warwickshire, at Hansworth, near Birming-
ham, runs a little beyond Shenstone, where it
crosses Watling Street, and thence proceeding in a
direction north-east and by north, enters the county
of Derbyshire, over the Dove at Monk's Bridge.
The Roman stations in this county that are known,
are Pennocrucium, near Stretton ; and Etocetum,
at Wall, near Liehfield,
CUSTOMS, &c.] — A square piece of wood is used,
by the inhabitants of Staffordshire, as an almanack.
Each of the four edges is marked with three months,
in which the Sundays and other particular days are
marked with a longer stroke than the rest ; the
golden number, or cycle of ihe moon, is denoted by
lines, and the letter V, after the Roman fashion of
numeration. Other symbols, some of which are
Runic, appear on this almanack, which is known in
the county by the name of the Staffordshire clogg ;
but, which is in fact, the original calendar of the
Norwegians and Danes.
CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS, JURIS-
DICTION, &c.] — In this county there are five hun-
dreds ; — -Totmanslow, to the north; Pirehill, to
the north-west; Cuddlestone, to the south-west;
Offlow, to the east ; and Seisdon, to the south.
There is one city, Lichfield ; three boroughs, Staf-
ford, Newcastle-under-Lyne, and Tamworth ; ami
twenty-four market towns, ancient and modern. —
It has 132 parishes, and 13 parts of parishes ; eight
petty sessions, and 60 acting county magistrates. It
is included in the Oxford circuit ; and is within the
diocese of Lichfield and Coventry, and the province
of Canterbury.
MANUFACTURES, &c.] — The manufactures of Staf-
fordshire are extensive, particularly in the southern
districts. They consist, principally, of hardware,
japanned goods, glass, and potter's ware, with some
cotton, silk, leather, woollen, and linen. The manu-
facture of glass is most considerable in the neigh-
bourhood of Stourbridge ; that of potter's ware is
chiefly carried on in the northern division of the
county, and has derived great celebrity from ,thc
ingenious labours of Mr. Wedgewood. Hardware
is principally manufactured in the populous villages
about Wolverhampton, and in that town. Plated
and japanned goods are the productions of Bilston.
The cutlery and leather trade of Stafford is very
considerable. The cotton factories at Rocester,
Fazeley, Tamworth, and Tutbury, and the silk
trade of Leek are in a flourishing condition. The
same
STAFFORDSHIRE.
287
•ame remark may be applied to all the manufacture
of this county.
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.]— This coun-
ty returns ten members to parliament : two for the
shire j two for the city ; and two for each of the
boroughs.
MARKET TOWNS.]— The following are usually con-
sidered as the market towns ef this county, with
their population : —
Population.
Towns, Market-days. 1801 1811
Bentley '. G70 761
Brewood Tuesday 2867
Bromley (Abbot's)..Tues. before Mid-Lent. 808 1019
Burslem* 6578 8625
Burton Thursday 3679 3979
Cannock (Disused) 1359 1143
Cheadle Saturday.... 2750 3191
Eccleshall Friday... 3487 3618
Handley Green* .s. • • — —
Lane End* •
Leek Wednesday 3489 3703
Lichfield Tuesday and Friday 4712 5022
Longnor Tuesday 391 467
Newcastle-under-LyneMonday 4604 6175
Penkridge Tuesday 1532 2343
Rudgeley Tuesday 2030 2213
Stafford Saturday 3898 4868
Stone Tuesday 2035 2314
Tamworth Saturday 2788 2993
Tutbury Tuesday 844 1235
Ultoxeter Wednesday 2779 3155
Walsall Tuesday 5177 5541
Wednesbtiy Wednesday 4160 5372
Wolverhantpton Wednesday 12565 14836
* These places are all situated in the potteries, the popula-
tion of which has greatly increased of late years, and have
considerable markets for provisions.
ROADS.] — The public roads of Staffordshire are
formed of good materials, and well repaired, but
private ways are, in general, ill kept. Bridges,
tunnels, and other works of the kind, are in suf-
ficient number for purposes of communication be-
tween different parts oi' the county ; and, in some
instances, do honour to the public spirit of its inha-
bitants.
FAIRS.] — Abbot's Bromley — Tuesday before Mid-
lent Sunday ; May 22, September 4, for horses and
horned-cattle. .
Barton Under&ood—~M.ay 3, for cattle and sheep ;
November 28 ; if Sunday, Saturday before, for cows.
Jlentley— July 81, and Whit- Wednesday.
Brezi'ood— September 19, for horses and cattle.
. Burslem - March 22, June 28, and October 13,
cattle and horses. .
i Bitrton-on-Tient — February 5, Aprils, for horn-
ed cattle and horses ; Holy Thursday, for horned
cattle ; July 16, of no note ; October 29, consi-
derable, for horses and horned cattle.
Camiork — May 8, horses and pedlary ; October
18, for horses, cattle, and sheep.
Cheadle — March 25, Holy Thursday, for horned
cattle ; August 21, October 18, for horses, ai\d
horned cattle.
£ccles/ia/l— Thursday before Midlent Thursday ;
VOL. IV.^NO. 158,
Holy Thursday, August 16 ; first Friday in Novem-
ber, for cattle, sheep, and saddle horses.
Fazeley, near Tamworth — March 21, for cattle ;
Monday after October 10, for cattle and sheep ;
second Monday in February ; last Monday in June,
for wool, &c. and second Monday in December.
Haywood Heath — Novem. 17, pedlary and sheep.
Hoi,/ Cross — Second Wednesday in April and
September, cheese, linen-cloth, and cattle.
Leek— Easter- Wednesday, May 18, Whit- Wed-
nesday, July 3, July 28; Wednesday after October
10,* for cattle of all sorts, and pedlar's ware ; Wed-
nesday before Candlemas, old style ; November 13,
cattle and pedlar's ware.
Lichfield — Ash-Wednesday, for cattle, sheep,
bacon, cheese, and iron; May 12, for sheep and
other cattle ; first Tuesday in November, for geese
and cheese.
Longnor — Tuesday before old Candlemas ; Eas-
ter-Tuesday, May 4, and 17 ; Whit-Tuesday, for
cattle and pedlary ; August 5, for lambs, cattle, and
pedlary ; Tuesday before old Michaelmas, cattle and
pedlary ; November 12, sheep, cattle, and pedlary.
Newcastle — Shrove - Monday, Easter - Monday,
Whit-Monday, Monday before July 15, Monday
after September 11, November 6, for cattle.
Patting/iam — An annual meeting on the last Tues-
day in April, for cattle, horses, sheep, pigs, &c.
Penkridge — April 30, for cattle ; first Monday in
September, for saddle horses and colts.
Rudgeley — June 0, October 21, for horses, sheep,
and cattle.
Sandon — November 14.
Stafford — Tuesday before Shrove-Tuesday ; May
14, for horses and cattle ; Saturday before St" Peter ;
June 29 ; July 10, wool ; September 16, 17, and
18, for cattle and horses ; October 2, for colts ; De-
cember 4, for cattle and swine.
Stone — Tuesday after Midlent, Shrove-Tuesday,
Whit-Tuesday, May 29, August 5, for cattle.
TaniKorth — May 4, for cattle and sheep ; July 26,
for cattle and wool ; October 24, for all sorts of
cattle ; first Monday in September, and Monday
before St. Paul's day in January.
Tean — April 10, November 12, for pedlary.
Tutbury — February 14, August 15, December 1,
some few horned cattle.
Uttoxeter — May 6, July 5, for horned cattle and
sheep ; September 1, November 27, for black colts
and horned cattle.
Walsall— February 24, Whit-Tuesday, for horses
and horned cattle. Tuesday before New Michael-
mas day, for horses, cattle, cheese, and onions.
Wednesbury — May 6, and August 4, for pedlary.
Wolverhampton — July 10, all sorts of goods.
Yoxu/l, near Abbot's Bromley — September 1.
POPULATION.] — The population of Staffordshire,,
in the year 1708, was 117,200 ; in 1750, 160,000 ;
in 1801, 239,153 ; of which, 118,698 were males,
and 120,455 females; and, in 1811, as appears
:n the following table, 29-5,153.
3 o Summary
238
STAFFORDSHIRE
Summary nf the Population of the County of STAFFORD, as published by Authority of Parliament, in 1811.
HUNDREDS, &c.
HOUSES. I OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
Inhabitetl.
Hi
&
B
is
f*
Uninhabited.
11
Families ctiiefly
employed in
Trade, Manu-
factures, &c.
All other Fami-
lies not com prised
in the two pre-
ceding Classes.
Males.
Females
Total
of
Persons
4097
14387
14096
12036
7350
1010
1245
859
4299
15609
14723
16952
7569
1090
1354
938
71
94
98
105
48
5
25
17
88
436
411
308
193
IS
74
9
2377
5199
4830
2160
3463
242
47
43
1347
8471
8159
10557
2910
509
1207
851
575
1939
1734
4238
1196
339
100
44
10391
39485
36758
31653
18263
2237
2940
2401
3945
10664
38875
37875
31595
19581
2785
3235
2467
21055
78360
74633
63251
37844
5022
6175
4868
3945
Offlow N and S ........*...
Pirehill N and S
Todnonstow, N. and S
iorough of Newcastle >
Totals
55080
62537
423
1537
18361
34011
10163
148073
147080
295153
CCTTLESTON HUNDRED.] — The hundred of Cut-
tleston, situated iu the Western part of the county,
contains the following parishes : Acton, Basvvich,
Brewood, Bidnall, Blimhill, Bradley juxta Staf-
ford, Cannock, Church-eaton, Coppenhall, Castle
Church, Dunston, Foxton, Gnoshall, Houghton,
Lapley, Norbury, Penkridge, Rudgeley, Sheriff-
Hales, Stretton, Shareshall, Weston under Liz-
zard, and Wheaton Aston.
At Brewood, 4{ miles S. W. by S. from Pen-
kridge, and 129 N.W. from London, a small priory
of Benedictine nuns was founded in the reign of
Richard I. The town, standing on a branch of the
river Penk, is neatly built, and has an excellent
free-school. In 1678, several severe shocks of an
earthquake were felt there, and in the neighbour-
hood.
The extensive waste of Cannock, on the southern
boundary of which the village of that name (4{ m. S.
"E. by E. from Penkridge) stands, was once a stately
forest, and the favourite chase of the Mercian kings :
It is a plain of about 40 square miles in extent, with
a light soil, well adapted to the culture of barley
and turnips, but now covered for the most part with
heath.*
Church-Eaton is a small, but neat village, 4{-
miles W. from Penkridge. The church is in the
Saxon style, with a low tower, and a spire of modern
erection.
In the parish of Dunston, on the road from Pen-
* The sad change of this beautiful forest into a bleak waste
is the subject of some admirable verses from Masters's Her
Boreale, of which the following is a translation:—
" A vast, a naked plain confines the view,
Where trees unnumbered in past ages grew;;
The green retreat of wood Nymphs ; once the boast,
The pride, the guardians, of their native coast.
kridge to Stafford, is a field, noted for an echo,
which distinctly reverberates seven or eight syl-
lables.
The church at Gnoshall, to the north of Church-
Eaton, was formerly a college of secular canons,
and built, except the west end, which has lancet
windows, in the latest style of English architecture.
The tower as high as the roof is Saxon. A well-
executed altar-tomb supports a recumbent figure,
clad in mail , it has no inscription. The minister
and churchwardens of Gnoshall annually elect a
jury of twelve men, who decide on ecclesiastical
and other matters.
At Hilton, 4£ miles N. E. by N. from Wolver-
hamptou, was formerly an abbey of Benedictine
monks, of which no vestige now remains. The
service performed by the lord of the neighbouring
manner of Essington to the lord of Hilton, was the
bringing of a goose to the hall there and driving it
three times round the hearth whilst Jack of Hilton
was blowing the fire : the lord of Essington then
carried it to the table, and received a dish from the
lord of Hilton for his own mess. Jack of Hilton
was a hollow image of brass, which being filled with
water and placed near the fire, emitted a strong
blast of vapour through its lips, and was thus said
to blow the fire.
At the village of Lapley, three miles W. S. W.
from Penkridge, was once an alien priory of Black
Monks, bestowed by Henry I. on the college of
Alas! how changed, each venerable oak
Lrongsince lias yielded to the woodman's stroke;
Where'er theclieerless prospect meets the eye,
No shrub, no plant, except the heath, is nigh.
Tlie solitary heath alone is there,
And wafts its sweetness in the desert air,
• So sweet its scenl, so sweet its purple hue,
We half forget that here a forest grew.
Tong
STAFFORDSHIRE.
239
Tong in Shropshire. The church is ancient, with a
noble tower.
AtStretton, south of Lapley, is a handsome man-
sion, now the property of Mr. Monckton, once of
the family of Congreve, ancestors of the poet.
Penkridge, 6{ miles S. by E. from Stafford, and
128| N. W. from London* derives ils name from the
river Penk, on which it stands. It is a place of
great antiquity ; some suppose it to be the Penno-
crueium of the Romans ; which others transport to
Stretton. The church, an ancient building with a
square tower, was formerly collegiate. The town
carries on a considerable trade in iron, and lias a
lair for saddle and cart horses, reputed one of the
best in England.
An abbey for Cistertian monks formerly stood at
Radmore, within the boundaries of Cannoek waste ;
and some large stones there have frequently been
the subject of antiquarian investigation.
Rudgeley, 9| miles E. S. E. from Stafford, and
131{ N. W. by N. from London, situated at the
north-east extremity of Cannoek waste, and near
the south bank of the Trent, is well-built, and car-
ries on a considerable trade, chiefly In hats and felts;
and in horses, at a great annual fair. A large ware-
house for the stowage of goods stands on the bank
of the Grand Trunk canal, which here flows between
the town and the river Trent. There are several
handsome seats in the neighbourhood of Rudgeley :
Hagley and Wolseley halls, the former the residence
of Lord Curzon, the latter of Sir William Wolse-
ley, are among the number. At a short distance
from the town a noble aqueduct carries the canal
over the Trent.
On the south and north sides of the village of
Snareliill, which lies at nearly an equal distance
between the Essington and Wiseley and the Wor-
cestershire Canals, are the remains of two Roman
encampments. — Snareliill church contains some curi-
ous old monuments.
LICHFIELD.] — Lichfield, 16| miles S. E. by E.
from Stafford, and 118{ N. W. by N. from London,
is supposed to have arisen on the ruins of the Roman
Etocetum. Different opinions are held by anti-
quaries respecting the derivation and meaning of i(s
name. Bede called it Liddfe/d; Ingulphus and
Huntingdon l.icfifctd, Simon Dunelm Ijcethfietd,
Brompton Lir/iesfelde, Gervase Liches/c/il, and
Knighton LychefM ; all which appellations are
translated by Ross of Warwick, and by Dr. John-
son, " the lield of the dead." The origin of this
supposed derivation is a tradition that upwards of a
thousand Christians were massacred here in the reign
of Dioclesian. Stukeley, however, rejects it, and
supposes that its name is derived from the morass
which formerly surrounded it : Lich, in Saxon, sig-
nifying a bog.
In the 33d of Edward I. Lichfield first sent repre-
sentatives to Parliament ; and was then governed by
a Guild and Guildinastcr ; but it was not regularly
incorporated till the first of Edward VI. When the
body corporate was made to consist of bailiffs, bur-
gesses, citizens, and commonalty. This charter,
by which Lichfield was elevated to the dignity of
a city, was confirmed, and many rights and immu-
nities granted, successively by Mary, Elizabeth,
James I. and Charles II. The city is now governed
by a recorder, a high steward, two bailiffs, a town
clerk, coroner, and a common council, which is
composed of twenty-one brethren. Lichfield and
its suburbs form a distinct county, in which the
recorder and steward, with the bailiffs and justices,
have power to hold courts of gaol-delivery, and
to award sentence of death or other punishments
upon offenders. A court of record is held by the
authority of the bailiffs for the rbcovery of debts of
40.S. and upwards. Several annual courts are held
besides those of gaol-delivery, pie-poudre, and the
quarter sessions ; as the court of array, the great
portmotc-court, and the court of the view of frank-
pledge. The court of array is held on Whit-Mon-
day, in the Guildhall, whence it is adjourned to
Greenhill, a mount in the parish of St. Michael. A
bower of wood is there erected for the occasion ; the
to wn-cryer proclaims the style and title of the court,
and calls over the names of the householders in the
twenty-one wards, that they may appear and do
" suit and service" to the court ; in default of
which, they are subjected to a fine. The petty con-
stables attend with the devicer of their respective
trades, to deliver lists of persons resident in their
respective districts. The high constables peram-
bulate the city, accompanied by morrice-dancers
and armed men, who fire a volley over each house.
The ceremonies are concluded by a procession
through the principal streets to the market-place,
where the town-clerk, in the name of the bailiffs
and citizens, addresses the crowd in a complimen-
tary speech, exhorting them to be loyal to their
king, and zealous for the welfare of the city. That
district of the (own, which is called the close, is
also independent and exempt from the jurisdiction
of Lichfield as well as of the county. The dean
and canons are sole justices within its precincts.
The situation of Lichfield, in a fine valley, is
healthful and pleasant ; and the houses, well-built
in the modern style, are, for the most part occupied
by gentry and persons of small independent fortunes.
A large sheet of water, which contributes much to
the beauty of the town, divides it into two parts,
the city and the close. The latter district, whose
site is higher than that of the former, sustained
several sieges during the civil war, and was twice
taken by the parliamentary forces.
Lichfield Cathedral, situated in the close, is one
of the most magnificent religious edifices in the
kingdom. The general supposition is, that it was
founded in 667, and it is undoubted, that Walter
de Langton, one of its bishops, built that portion
of it called St. Mary's chapel, in or about the year
1296. Having received considerable injury, during
the above-mentioned sieges, Bishop llacket, who
was
1240
STAFFORDSHIRE.
•was appointed to the see, after the Restoration, re-
stored it to its former splendour. The length, from
east to west, is 41 1 feet ; the breadth, from north j
to south, 67 feet. It is surmounted by three elegant
steeples ; one, in the centre, 258 feet high ; and |
two at the west end 188 feet each. The statue of I
Charles II. stands on the roof; and the western ,
front exhibits the remains of a splendid display of |
finely-wrought figures, among which David is dis- j
tinguished by his harp. The statue of a person in j
pontificial robes stands immediately over the porch, j
supposed to be the patron saint of the church. ;
Within the porch are^ the four Evangelists; on the ;
sides, Moses and .fyaron j anu"> 'n tne centre, the
Virgin and the infant Jesus ; a figure of Christ also
appears between two cherubim, on the top of the
central pillar ; and, on the outside, some niches be-
tween the large and small doors, were once filled
with statues of the apostles. Both the northern and
southern entrances are elegant, particularly the
former, which is richly embellished with sculptured
mouldings. The interior of this church corresponds
with its external splendour and magnificence. The
upper windows are triangular, each containing three
circles ; ami a beautiful circular window, at the west
end, is adorned with painted glass, the gift of Dean
Addenbrooke. Near the western door, is a monu-
mental inscription to the memory of Launcelot,
father of Joseph Addison ; and, near the northern
portal, is a monument to the memory of Lady Mary
Wortley Montagu. It is a handsome statue, re-
presenting the goddess of beauty, weeping over the
ashes of her preserver ; allusive to her having intro-
* For a biographical sketch of this distinguished actor, vide
Modern Panorama, Vol. II. page 588. — We shall here present
the reader with what cannot but be regarded as a great curiosity
—a copy of the Play Bill, in which Garrick's first appearance
in London was announced. It is an interesting relume, not
only because it refers to an epoch in tiie life of an actor, " con-
fessed without rival to shine," but also on account of the men-
tion which it makes of many a " poor player, who strutted his
tiour upon the stage," and, in his day, made the house roar
with laughter, or filled the eve of sensibility with tears. There
'is, however, a mistake in announcing this as Garrick's first
appearance on any stage, for he had previously played in the
country, particularly at Ipswich, in Suffolk : —
" October 19th, 1741.
GOODMAN'S FIELDS.
At the late Theatre in Goodman's Fields, this Day will be
performed,
A Concert of Vocal and Instrumental Music,
Divided into Two Parts.
Tickets at Three, Two, and One Shillings.
Places for the Boxes to be taken at the Fleece Tavern, near
the Theatre.
N.B. Between the Two Parts of the Concert will be presented
an Historical Play, called Vhe
LIFE AND DEATH OF
KING RICHARD THE THIRD.
Containing the Distresses of K. Henry VI.
The artful Acquisition of the Crown by King Richard.
The murder of Young King Edward V. and his Brother in the
Tower,
The Landing of the Earl of Richmond,
And the Death of King Richard in the memorable Battle of
duced the practice of inoculation. The monuments
of Johnson and Garrick,* are in a recess of the
south transept. The inscription under the bust of
the latter, closes with the words of his friend, John-
son : — " His death eclipsed the gaiety of nations,
and impoverished the public stock of harmless plea-
sure."— Near the south door is an elegant mural
monument, adorned with a celestial crown, and other
beautiful sculpture, to the memory of Lucy Grove,
wife of Dr. William Grove, of Lichfield close. — At
the extremity of the south-west aisle, running
parallel with the new choir, is a beautiful and affect-
ing piece of statuary, from the chissel of Chantrey,
to the memory of two infants. The figures of the
deceased repose on the representation of a mattrass,
with a pillow at the head, supported on a plain mo-
nument; the whole cut from a block of fine white
marble. On the entablature of the monument is tho
following inscription : —
SACRED TO THE MEMORY OF
ELLEN JANE, AND MARIANNE,
Only Children
Of the late Rev. Wm. Robinson,
And Ellen Jane, his Wife.
Their affectionate Mother,
In fond Remembrance of their " Heaven-lov'd Innocence/'
Consigns their Resemblances to this Sanctuary,
In humble Gratitude,
For the glorious assurance, that
" Of such is the Kingdom of God."
At the back of the statuary, placed in the wall, is
a plain monument, in black marble, to the memory
of the late Rev. Wm. Robinson, the departed Parent
Bosworth Field, being the 'last that was fought between
the Houses of York and Lancaster ; with many other
true Historical Passages.
The Part of King Richard by a Gentleman,
(Who never appeared on any Stage.)
King Henry, by Mr. Giflard ; Richmond, Mr. Marshall;
Prince Edward, by Miss Hippisley :* Duke of York, Miss
Naylor; Duke of Buckingham, Mr. Paterson ; Duke of Nor-
folk, Mr. Blades; Lord Stanley, Mr. Fagett; Oxford, Mr.
Vaughn ;f Tressel, Mr. W. GiiTard ; Catesby, Mr. Marr ;
Ratclif, Mr. Crofts; Blunt, Mr. Naylor; Tyrrel, Mr. Puf-
teuham ; Lord Mayor, Mr. Dunstall. T/te Queen, Mrs.
Steel ; Dutchess of York, Mrs. Yates.J
And the part of Lady Anne, by Miss Giffurd.
With
Entertainments of Dancing,
By Mons. Fromet, Madame Duvalt, and the two Masters and
Miss Gramer.
To which will be added a Ballad Opera, of one Act, called
The f-'irgin Unmask d.
The part of Lucy, by Miss Hippisley.
Both of which will be performed gratis, by Persons for their
Diversion.
The Concert will begin exactly at Six o'Clock."
* Afterwards Mrs. Green, a celebrated comic actress, and the
first representative of Margaret, in The Duenna.
f Brother, of Mrs. Pritchard, one of the greatest Actresses
that ever graced the English Stage in both provinces of the
Drama.
Not the late Mrs. Yales, of Covent Garden Theatre, wife
of the well known tumic Aclur.
ol
STAFFORDSHIRE.
211
«rf tlie reposing innocents, bearing thft following
inscription :
The Reverend
WILLIAM ROBINSON, B.C.L.
Prebendary of this Cathedral,
Rector of Swinncrton, and Sloke on Trent,
A pious and excellent man ;
An able and successful Minister
In the Church of Christ ;
Departed this life, March 21, 1812,
Aged 35.
He married Ellen Jane,
Daughter of the Very Reverend
Dr. Woodhouse, Dean ot this Cathedral ;
Who, with two infant Daughters,
Ellen Jane, and Marianne,
Survived him.
The choir, and St. Mary chapel, or Lady choir,
were formerly separated from each other by a stone
screen of most elegant architecture, embattled' at
the top, and adorned with several rows of exqui-
sitely wrought Gothic niches, each of which origi-
nally contained a small statue, and beneath were
thirteen stalls adorned with Gothic tracery. This
screen was removed during some recent alterations,
and the two choirs thrown into one, to the great
injury of the appearance. St. Mary's chapel, built
by bishop Langton, displays uncommon beauty and
magnificence. It has nine windows, three on each
side and three at the end, narrower, but of a more
lofty and splendid appearance than any of the others.
The slender east windows are filled with painted
glass, the chief part of which was brought by Sir
Brooke Boothby, from the dissolved abbey of Herc-
kenrode in the bishopric of Liege, and the purchase
transferred by him to the dean and chapter. The
whole may be valued at upwards of ten thousand
pounds, but it did not cost the cathedral more than
1100/. The centre window on the same side exhibits
. :i representation of the Resurrection, executed by
Mr. Egginton, from a design of Sir Joshua Rey-
nolds. Underneath is an altar of freestone, neatly
sculptured in the pointed style. This chapel for-
merly contained the rich shrine raised in honour of
St. Chad, and demolished at the Dissolution. A
splendid monument to the memory of Lord Paget
secretary of state to Henry the Eighth, afterwards
occupied its site, but met with the same fate in the
time of the civil wars. Ceolred king of the Mer-
cians was interred in this chapel. The floor of the
choir was formerly paved with cannel coal and ala-
baster ; but it has been repaved, lozengy, with grey
and white marble. The elegant stone screen now
forms its western inclosure, and serves to support
the organ, which is a very fine instrument. The
windows are sculptured in the most elegant manner,
and beneath them, on each side of the choir, stood
six statues, richly painted, representing St. Peter,
the Virgin Mary, Mary Magdalene, St. Philip, St.
James, and St. Christopher, with Christ on his
shoulder. All of them were too much mutilated to
survive the repairs in 1788. Both sides of the choir
VOL. iv. — NO. 158.
are adorned with twenty-four stalls, and the centre
is neatly pewed. On tha south siile these are ter-
minated by the bishop's throne, ornamented with «
mitre and the arms of the see ; and on the north
side by the pulpit. In the wall of the south aisle
lies a inutohited statue of Captain Stanley, support-
ed by a handsome Gothic altar-tomb. This person
was probably Sir Humphry Stanley, of Pipe, who
died in the reign of Henry the Seventh, and wa*
excommunicated in consequence of a difference ha'
had with the chapter about conveying the water
through his lands to the close ; but having shewn
signs of repentance before his death, was admitted
to Christian burial, upon condition that his monu-
ment should bear certain marks of disgrace. This is
the samegentleman who procured the assassination of
Sir William Chetwynd, one of the king's gentleman
ushers, during his passage of Tixal heath. Near
this figure stood the tomb of Dean Heywood.
Against the south wall of the aisle, are two figures
in grey marble, supposed to be those of bishop
Langton, and bishop Pattishul. The latter has the
stigmata, or marks of our Saviour's wounds on the
hands and feet, a respectful superstition of ancient
times. It is now on the spot anciently appropriated
to the tomb of bishop Scroop, which was destroyed
in the civil war. At a little distance, beneath a
window neatly ornamented with foliage, stands the
noble raised tomb of bishop Hacket, inclosed by an
iron railing decorated with five gilt mitres. His
effigies is recumbent, in complete pontificalibus. —
None of the other monuments in this aisle peculiarly
claims attention, except a mutilated one of a recum-
bent figure, the head and neck of which lie on a roll
of matting in one niche, and the feet and ancles
with some folds of garment, in another, at the dis-
tance of five feet. The intermediate space has been
filled up with a neat marble monument to the me-
mory of the Rev. J. G. Norbury, and his wife. In
the north aisle, a monument in honour of Theo-
phania, wife of Dr. Sraallridge, chaplain to king
Charles I J. is of marble, finely enriched with foliated
sculpture. From this aisle a passage, ornamented
with Gothic arched seats, leads to the chapter house,
a room of an octangular form, and adorned with
arches. Over this room is a library, instituted by
dean Heywood, which contains several valuable
books and MSS. — To the north of the lady choir
is a small chapel, where the remains of two of the
Mercian monarchs were deposited. — -The sacristy
in which the monks formerly deposited the sacred
vessels and other moveables belonging to the church
j adjoins the south aisle. Here are the remains of a
i rich altar-piece of Grecian architecture, which for-
merly terminated the choir. — The members of this
cathedral are a dean, precentor, chancellor, and
treasurer, all of whom have prebends. The dean
and six residentiary canons constitute the chapter,
and hold their court in the chapter-house every
alternate Friday to hear and determine " causes of
instance." They likewise hold weekly chapters on
3r the
242
STAFFORDSHIRE.
the same day for the general regulation of the church.
An ancient custom is still observed by the choris-
ters, at the time of Christmas, of calling upon the
inhabitants with a cup, and entreating a contribu-
tion either of money or drink. — The close contains
a variety of buildings, nearly all of which are the
property of the church. — The bishop's palace is at
the north-east corner. The original foundation of
this edifice was of very ancient date. Bishop Lang-
ton rebuilt it in a magnificent style, in the reign of
jfcdward the First. The great hall, a hundred feet
long and fifty-six broad, displayed paintings of the
coronation, marriages, wars, and funeral, of that
monarch, as well as the exploits of some of his
officers. The other apartments were of proportionate
size and splendour, and behind lay an extensive
court, laid out with walks and grass plots. This
mansion having been demolished, bishop Wood was
enjoined by archbishop Sancroft to renew it as a fine
for wasting some portion of the woods belonging
* Miss Ann Sewartl, distinguished in the literary world by
her poetical writings, was the daughter of the late Rev. Thomas
Seward, rector of Eyam in Derbyshire, prebendary of Salis-
bury, and canon residentiary of Lichfield. Mr. Seward had
graceful manners, great hilarity of spirit, and active benevo-
lence. His poetic talents were not inconsiderable; and he.
studied will) discriminating taste, in their original languages,
the Greek, Latin, and English bards. He was known to the
world of letters as principal editor of Beaumont and Fletcher's
plays, published in 1750; also, as author of a learned and
ingenious tract on the conformity between paganism and popery.
To Dodsley's collection he sent a few elegant little poems,
which may be found at the close of the second volume.* At
the village of Eyam, situated among the highest of the peak
mountains, Mr. Seward passed the first eight years of his mar-
riage. In the second year his eldest daughter the subject of
this memoir was born. She had several sisters and one brother,
but all died in their infancy except the second daughter, who
lived till she was nineteen, and then died on the eve of her
nuptials. In Miss Seward's seventh year, her lamily removed
from Eyam to Lichfield ; and in her thirteenth year they
became inhabitants of the Bishop's Palace, which continued to
be her home during life. Mrs. Seward, who died at at sixty-six,
in the year 1780, was a woman of strong sense, and had pos-
sessed extraordinary beauty, a great portion of which she re-
tained to the last. Without taste for literary pursuits herself,
she had never encouraged them in her daughters. For the
delight they took in books, they were indebted to their father's
early instruction. Fancying tliat he saw the dawn of poetic
genius in his eldest daughter, he amused himself with its cul-
ture, though not from any idea or desire that she should ever
become an authoress. Her ear for poetic recitation, in which
he himseff excelled, inspired the pleasure he felt in fostering
her talents. At three years old, before she r.ould read, he had
taught her to lisp the Allegro of Milton ; and in her ninth year
she was enabled to speak by rote the three fir>t books of the
" Paradise Lost," with varied accent and just melody. Miss
Seward has herself remarked, "That its sublime images, the
alternate grandeur and beauty of its numbers, perpetually tilled
her infant mind with delight, while she performed the parental
task, by daily committing a portion of them to memory." It
has been already observed, that Miss Seward's progress in the
composition of verse met the dullness of maternal discourage-
ment, and her father, as she grew up to womanhood, was in-
* By mistake they were printed anonymously. These poems
commence with "The Female Right of Literature," written
at Florence, and sent from thence to Miss Pratt, afterwards
to this see. Accordingly he built the spacious edifice
of stone, which has the arms of the bishopric in the
front, with the date 1687. The bishops, however,
having fixed their residence for many years at
Eccleshall castle, this palace is generally occupied
by tenants. It has been long inhabited by the family
of the late celebrated Miss Seward.* — West from
the palace stands the deanery-house, rebuilt in the
reign of Queen Anne. The prebendal houses stand
in different parts of the close. Those on the south-
west, built by bishop Halse, who died in 1490, are
probably among the earliest brick buildings in the
kingdom. The vicarage consists of two small qua-
drangles of low built houses in the north-west cor-
ner. The houses anciently called " The New Col-
lege" stand within a court, east from the last men-
tioned residentiary houses ; and near them is a new
house belonging to the Registrar of the diocese.
Attached to this house is a large hall in which is a
valuable and extensive museum, collected and esta-
duced to withdraw the animating welcome he had given her
early muse. Nothing could restrain, however, the ardour she
felt to peruse, with 'discriminating attention, the writings of our
finest poets. Miss Seward's productions were confined to the
perusal of her more intimate friends, till she became accident-
ally acquainted with the late Lady Miller, of Bath Easton, by
whose persuasion she was induced to write for the poetic institu-
tios of that villa, and to become a candidate for its myrtle
wreath : she obtained it repeatedly. The prize poems were
published and adopted from the Bath Easton volume into other
public prints, with the names of the authors; and thus the
Rubicon was passed. Early the next year, 1780, her elegy on
Capt. Cook was given to the world, with an Ode to the Sun, on
the bright unwinlered year, 1779. These poems meeting a
flattering reception, she was encouraged to lament the cruel
fate of ner gallant and amiable friend, Major Andre. Her
monody on him, and also her elegy on Captain Cook, involving
a series of events the most important in the lives of their heroes,
formed a new species of funeral song. Dr. Darwin often told
her, that she was the inventress of epic elegy. In 1782 appear-
ed her poem to the memory of Lady Miller, who died in July
1781, in the meridian of her days, [n 1784, she published the
poetical novel, intitled "Louisa," which is perhaps the most
popular of all her compositions ; and in 1787 her " Epic Ode
on the return of General'Elliott from Gibraltar. These, with
her " Langollen Vale and other poems," in J790, the "Life
of Darwin," in 1806, and contributions to the Gentleman's
Magazine and other periodical publications, form, we believe,
the whole of her works. As a writer, few women have exhi-
bited more strength of intellect, or more genuine delicacy of
taste, than Miss Seward. Her poetry is particularly distin-
guished by beauty of imagery and vigour of sentiment ; yet it
is not wholly free from affectation. Her life of Dr. Darwin
cannot but be accurate, from her intimate acquaintance with
that gentleman. In' private life Miss Seward was much respect-
ed, her friends were numerous, and they composed no small
portion of the virtue and genius of the times. Miss Seward
bequeathed her manuscripts, published and unpublished, with
ICO/, to Walter Scott, Esq. and her collections (if letters to and
from the most eminent literary characters of her age, to Mr.
Constable, the bookseller, by whom they have been published.
The remainder of her income, with the exception of some
handsome legacies, she left to her relations by her father's
side. She was aged sixty-six.
Lady Camden, the " Athenea" of the verses. To tiiat suc-
ceed sonic lines on Shakespeare's monument at Stratford.
Wished
STAFFORDSHIRE.
•243
Wished by Mr. Richard Wright, surgeon. The
handsome building faced willi stone, at the west
entrance to the close, was erected at the sole ex-
pence of Andrew Newton, Esq. brother to the late
Dr. Newton, Bishop of Bristol, for the reception
and support of twenty aged and necessitous widows,
or unmarried daughters of clergymen. The house
of the choristers, erected in 1509, and admired for
its Gothic elegance, formerly stood on the north side
of the close. Immediately in front of the centre of
this building was a fine gate-house of freestone.
There still stands one of the four ancient towers
which were placed at the four angles of the close.
Under this tower, at the depth of fifteen feet, a
subterraneous passage was discovered in 1804, sup-
posed to lead from the cathedral, and to have been
excavated at the period of the civil war in the reign
of Charles the First. The close is supplied with
water from Mapplehays. An ancient stone cross
conduit has given place to an ordinary pump.
The city of Licbfield is divided into three parishes ;
St. Mary's, St. Chad's, and St. Michael's. That of
St. Mary occupies the central portion of the town.
The church, on the south side of the market place,
is said to have been originally founded in 855.
Lelaud calls this church " a right beautiful piece
of work in the very market place." The old build-
ing was taken down in 1717, and the present edifice
erected oil its site. It is neat, and the inside is fitted
up with oak pews, and adorned with a spacious gal-
lery, around which many of the benefactions to the
parish are recorded. The altar-piece is handsome,
and on the north side of it is an antique monument
to the memory of Sir Richard Dyott, celebrated for
his attachment to the house of Stuart. In this church
the master and brethren of the guild of the blessed
Mary had a chantry in which their five priests
officiated till the Dissolution.
The Market House, a light building of brick, at
a little distance from this edifice, occupies the site
of a very handsome market cross, erected by dean
Denton. In Bore Street, adjoining the south end
of Bread Market Street, stands the Guildhall, anci-
ently appropriated to the meetings of the religious
fraternity of St. Mary and St. John the Baptist. It
is a neat stone edifice adorned with the city arms,
an escutcheon with dead bodies slain, and a basso
relievo of the cathedral. The front hall is spacious,
and behind are several smaller apartments, in which
the business of the city is transacted. Underneath
is a gaol where debtors and felons apprehended
within the limits of the county of Lichfield are con-
fined. The theatre, in this street, is a small build-
ing with a stucco front, erected in 1790. In a
garden near it a large pot of half crowns, coined by
Charles the First, was discovered some years ago,
and at the south-west corner of the street, is an
English school, founded and endowed by Thomas
Minors, Esq. in 1670, "to teach thirty poor boys
of this city to read the psalter and bible in English."
West from the school arc the gates leading to a
pleasant seat, called the Friary, formerly the site
of a conventual church or monastery. The Duke
of Cumberland had his head quarters here, in 1745.
— On the north side of this building, in a spot sup-
posed to have been the situation ot the conventual
cemetery, a number of human skeletons were dis-
covered some .years ago ; and east from it, there
remains an old mural monument with a cross fleury,
surrounded by a curious inscription in ancient cha-
racters, of which the following is a translation :
" Ricard the merchant here extended lies,
Death, like a step-dame, gladly clos'd his eyes ;
No more he trades beyond the burning zone,
But happy rests beneath this sacred stone.
His benefactions to the church were great ;
Tho' young he hasten'd from this mortal stale.
May he, tho' dead in trade, successful prove
St. Michael's merchant in the realms above."
Bridge, now called Bird Street, is the principal
street in the city, the road from Chester tdrLondon
passing through it. Next to this is Beacon or Bacon
Street, which was long honoured by the residence
of the late Dr. Darwin.* It was nearly burnt to
the ground during the civil war, but is again well
built and populous. In this street is the George
Inn, the landlord of which, in 1707, is drawn under
the character of Boniface, in Farquhar's comedy of
the Beaux Stratagem. Lady Biddulph, who then
occupied the bishop's palace, was supposed to have
been personated in the character of Lady Bountiful.
Cherry was the daughter of one Harrison, likewise
sometime landlord of the George. — In St. John
Street, stands the Free Grammar-school, founded
by Edward the Sixth. At this school some of the
greatest men of the last century received the rudi-
ments of their education. Among the more distin-
guished of them were Addison, Woolaston, Ashmole,
Garrick and Johnson. Nearly opposite this school
is the hospital of St. John, originally a monastery.
Having been destroyed, probably by order of Henry
the Sixth, it was rebuilt by bishop Smith, and
endowed as an hospital and chapel, for the support
of a master and thirteen poor men. As a building
it is remarkable for the number and curious form
of the chimnies, which are placed in its front. The
chapel, of stone, has withstood the ravages of time
for several centuries, having been the ancient chapel
of the priory before its re-erection.
St. Chad's parish, on the north-east of Lichfield,
occupies a considerable portion of the city and its
suburbs. The church was founded long before the
cathedral. St. Chad had his cell here before he was
appointed to the bishopric. The interior is extremely
neat, and it has a very ancient font. Here also in
former times stood the shrine of St. Catharine, whose
chantry priest had a stipend from the vicars choral
of the cathedral. Soiue of the monuments display
considerable taste. In a small garden, adjoining the
church on the west, is the well, called St. Chad's
well, where that saint first held his oratory. Even
* See page 18 of this volume,
at
244
STAFFORDSHIRE.
at (his day it is customary for the clergyman, at-
tended by the churchwardens and a great concourse
of children, to visit this well on holy Thursday,
(Ascension day) when it is adorned with boughs and
flowers, and the gospel for the day is read. The
water, which is of a milky colour, is supposed to
possess considerable medicinal virtues. In a pa>-t
of Bacon Street, in this parish, stands an hospital
for fifteen poor women, commonly called Dr. Mil-
ley's Hospital, having been rebuilt and endowed by
him in 1504, on the site of an older original edifice
erected by bishop Heyworth for the same purpose.
Each of the women occupies separate apartments,
and receives Is. 6d. weekly, besides II. 11s. 6d. every
quarter.— Christian Field", near Stickbrook in this
parish, is at a little distance from the city.
On the eastern side of the city, and comprehending
some part of it, lies the parish of St. Michael.
The church, on the mount called Greenhill, is
remarkable for the extent of its cemetry, which con-
tains seven acres. It is an old fabric, with a lofty
spire, probably erected in the reign of Henry the
Vllth. It contains numerous monuments, but they
are not of great importance. Some distinguished
characters, born at Lichfield, are noticed below.*
NEWCASTLE.] — The borough and market town of
Newcastle-under-Lyne (or Lynne,) is seated on the
Trent, in the hundred of Pirehill, 16 miles N. N. W.
from Stafford, and 149 N. W. by N. from London.
It derived its name and origin from a new fortress
* Elias Ashmole, born on the 23d of May, 1617, having
shewn a genius for music, his friends had him instructed in it,
and admitted as a chorister of the cathedral. While young he
removed to London, under the protection of his maternal uncle
James Paget, Esq. puisne baron of the exchequer. In 1638 he
became a solicitor in chancery, and subsequently an attorney in |
the court of common pleas. In 1644 he entered of Brazen
Nose College, Oxford. On the 9th of May, 1645, he was
appointed one of the gentlemen of the ordnance in tlie garrison
of the city of Cheshire, whence he removed to Worcester,
where he was commissioner, receiver, registrar of the excise,
captain in Lord Ashley's regiment, and comptroller of the ord-
nance. He afterwards became acquainted with Sir Jonas Moore,
Mr. Lilly, and Mr. Booker, as the first astrologers in Europe,
who elected him steward of their annual feast. After two years'
residence in the metropolis he retired to Englefield in Berkshire,
where he was introduced to Lady Mainwaring, whom he mar-
ried in 1649. He then settled in London, where his house
was frequented by most of the learned men of his day. In
1652 he published his " Theatrum Chemicum Britannicum,"
a collection of such productions of the Englieh chemists as then
remained unpublished. Having always shewn himself a zealous
loyalist, he was in great favour with Charles the Second, who,
after the Restoration, bestowed on him the office of Windsor-
herald, and afterwards appointed him to give a description of
His medals. In 1661 he was admitted a fellow of the Royal
Society, and in February following constituted secretary of
Surinam. The university of Oxford created him Doctor of
Physic in 1669. About this time he visited his native city, and
was plentifully entertained by the corporation, to whom, as well
as to the choristers of the cathedral, he had made some valuable
presents. In May 1672 his great work on the noble order of
the Garter was presented to his Majesty, who, upon perusal,
granted him a privy seal for 400/. out of the custom of paper.
In January 1679, he lost his noble library, with a vast collection
of coins, seals, charters, &c. by a fire in the Temple. His
which was built by Edmund (the younger son of
Henry III.) Earl of Lancaster, in the centre of an.
extensive pool. Scarcely any vestiges of this castle
can now be discovered. — The first charter of corpo-
ration, granted in the reign of Henry, was confirmed
by Elizabeth and by Charles the lid. with additional
privileges. The government of the town is now
vested in a mayor, two justices, two bailing, and
twenty-four common-council men, who possess the
right of holding a court, for the recovery of debts
under forty pounds. The right of election is vested
in the freemen resident within the borough.
The situation of this town is remarkably pleasant,
and the houses display considerable neatness of
architecture, and uniformity of arrangement. The
principal street is large, airy, and well paved. New-
castle formerly had four churches, of which only one
(a chapelry to Stoke) now remains, having a lofty
square embattled tower, and a chime of eight bells.
The other churches were demolished during the
barons' wars. Here are several meeting-houses
for dissenters. — The alms-bouses, twenty in number,
were built and endowed by the Marquis of Stafford
and Lord Grenville, for twenty poor women, inha-
bitants of the town. A monastery for Black Friars
is said to have stood in its southern division. — The
clothing trade, and a manufactory of hats, constitute
the chief employment of the inhabitants. Every
alternate week a great beast market is held here. —
A device for the cure of shrews or scolding women
manuscripts and his valuable gold medals were happily pre-
served, having been removed before to his house at Lambeth.
These, with many other curiosities, he presented to the Univer-
sities of Oxford ; and at his death, in 1692, he bequeathed to
the same body the whole of his library and manuscripts. This
collection has ever since been preserved under the name of
the " Ashmolean Museum."
George Smallridge, an English prelate, born at Lichfield in
1666, was educated at Westminster school. In 1682 he became
a student in Christ Church college Oxford, where he took the
several degrees in arts and divinity. At the age of 21 he pub-
lished " Animadversions on a Piece upon Church Govern-
ment." He went into orders, and having passed through
several inferior stations in the church, became bishop of Bristol
in 1714. He died in 1719.
Thomas Newton, bishop of Bristol, born in 1703, received
the early part of his education at the Free School, whence he
removed to Westminster, and became a king's scholar. After
passing through some inferior gradations, Mr. Newton became
rector of St. Mary le Bow, by the interest of the Earl of Bath,
in whose family he was first chaplain. During the rebellion he
greatly distinguished himself by the spirited loyaltv of his
sermons. In 1747 he was chosen lecturer at St. George's,
Hanover Square, where he preached a sermon on the death of
Frederick prince of Wales, so highly acceptable to the Princess
Dowager that she named him her chaplain. He was subse-
quently made chaplain to the king, prebendary of Westminster,
and precentor of York, and in 1761 was elevated to the bishopric
of Bristol, to which was annexed a residentiaryship of St. Paul's,
exchanged for the deanery in 1768. His lordship, who was
twice married, died in 1782. His principal work, intituled
" Dissertations on the Prophecies," is thought to possess great
merit.
Dr. Samuel Johnson, the particulars of whose life are gene-
rally known, was a native of Lichfield.
has
STAFFORDSHIRE.
lias been frequently put in practice at Newcastle:
a bridle being fixed in the scold's mouth, which de-
prives her of the power of speech, she is publicly
led through the town.
The Newcastle race course is dangerous, on ac-
count of the numerous unfilled coal pits by which it
is surrounded. Plot states, that he saw a solid block
of stone raised from a quarry here, which exhibited
the petrified skull of a human being entire ; probably
that of some malefactor who had been executed here ;
the spot where it was found being still called Gallows
tree.
1 . The vicinity of Newcastle boasts several ancient
and respectable gentlemen's seats, and many modern
mansions. — Keel Hall, situated two miles east from
the town, in an agreeable and fertile country, is built
in the style of architecture in use about the time of
Elizabeth.
To facilitate the conveyance of coals in this dis-
trict a canal was some years ago cut by Sir Nigel
Greasly, from some mines on his estate of Kiinper-
sley, to the town. A branch of the Grand Trunk
also serves to transport coal from Harecastle to any
part of Staffordshire.
OFFLOW.] — Offlow Hundred is the south-western
division of the county ; and contains the following
parishes : Alrewas, Armitage, Aldridge, Burton-
upon-Trent, Barton-iinder-Needwood,^ Bloxwich,
Barr, Clifton Camp\ille, Drayton Basset Darlas-
ton, Elford, Fairwell, Hanbury, Hamstal Ridware,
Harbourne, Hammerwich, Haselour, Harlcston,
Hints, Handsworth, Longdou, King's Bromley,
Lichfield St. Chad's, Lichfield St. Michael's, Mar-
chington, Maveston Ridware, Newborough, Nor-
ton-under-Cannock, Pipe Ridware, Pelsall, Rol-
leston, Rowley Regis, Rushall, Imethwick, Shen-
stone, Statfold, Tutuury, Tatenhall, Thorpe Con-
stantine, Tamworth, Tipton, Wichnor, Whittington,
Wigington, Weeford, Walsall, Wednesfield, Wil-
lenhall, Wednesbury, West Bromwich, and Yoxall,
in all 51.
Burton-upon-Trent, 21 miles E.by N. from Staf-
ford, and 127 N. W. by N. from London, is situated
on the north bank of the river, from which it derives
the latter part of its name. This place is of great
antiquity. It was called by the Saxons Byretun, or
Burytou, a word used to denote places of Roman
or British origin. There are no records of the town
till the time of Modvvenua, an Irish lady, superior
of an abbey ; which having been destroyed, she came
to England in the reign of Ethelwolf, and obtained
from that monarch lands sufficient for the endowment
of two religious houses. After presiding some years
over one of the institutions she had thus been enabled
* Her epitaph is preserved by Camden :—
Ortum Modwennae dat Hibernia, Scotia fincm,
Anglia dat Himulum, dat Deus astra poli.
Prima dedit vitam, serf mortem terra secunda,
Et terram terra: tertia terra dedil.
Aufert Lanfortin quam terra Conallea.profert ;
Felix Bui Ionium virginis ossa tenet.
VOL iv. — no. 158.
to form, she retired to an insulated meadow opposite
to the site of the present church and there died. <
The abbey of Burton was founded and endowed by
UJfric, Earl of fllercia, about 1002, and many pri-
vileges were granted to it, by different monurchs,
bishops, and others ; some of its abbots even sat iu
parliament. The seal of the college is one of the
most beautiful specimens of that kind of sculpture
in England. It is a representation of the " Last
Supper;" with the arms of Ulfric the founder. The
only remains of this immense structure are some old
walls between the present church and the bowling-
green. What is called the old manor-house, was
the private residence of the abbot ; though it is .now
so much altered by modern repairs*, that it would be
recognized as such by nothing but a window, the
outlines of which remain perfect. Burton suffered
by a fire in 1255; and, in the reign of Edward II.
by Lancaster's rebellion. In the civil wars it was
taken and re-tuken several times ; and, in 1643, it
was plundered by the republican army. ' Not far
from the market-house, is a very remarkable old
house, adorned with a number of wooden pillars, and
a variety of curious Gothic ornaments. The church
is a modern well-built edifice. The bridge, one of
the most remarkable objects in the town, is 515 feet
in length, and consists of 30 arches. It was erected
about the time of the Conquest, and had formerly a
chapel, supposed to have been erected by Edward
II; the piers and arches are of various forms, and
almost wholly covered with mosses, which, with the
trees that grow near, give it an air of picturesque
beauty. The ale of Burton is the chief production,
and is too well known to need an eulogium.
Aldridge is a large village, situated near the ex- .
tremity of Sutton Coldfield, three miles E. N.E.
from Walsall. In the church, is a monument of
Robert Stapleton, whose effigies bears a shield, orna-
mented with the figure of a dog. Till lately, it was
a custom that the incumbent of the living, which is
a rectory, should give a dinner on Christmas day
to every person resident in the parish ; but this
laudable practice, worthy of the ancient ecclesias-
tical institutions, has been discontinued, and the
munificent minister now bestows sixpence on every
householder in lieu of the social banquet. The agree-
able village of Great Barr, within the limits of this
parish, has long been the property of the Scot family,
who have here one of the finest mansions in this part
of the county. This seat stands in a beautiful valley,
affording the most delightful prospects of hill and
dale, varied by wood and water. Shady walks and
rustic seats furnish the most attractive conveniences
for the promenade : one object, in particular, fixes
TRANSLATION ;
Ireland gave Modwcn birtli ; England a ^rave.
As 'Scotland death, and God her soul shall save
The first land life, the second death did give
The third in earth her earthly part receive
Lanfortin takes whom Connel's country owns
And happy Burton holds the virgin's bones.
3 « the
246
STAFFORDSHIRE.
the attention ; it is an urn, near the flower-garden,
to the memory of Miss Mary Dolman, the cousin of
Shenstone, whose elegant pen supplied the following
tribute : —
" Ah Maria, puellarum elegantissima,
Ah Flore, venustate abrepta : Vale !
Hue quanto minus est
Cum rehquis versari quam tui meminisse."
A rising walk, near this simple and beautiful
monument, commands an extensive prospect of the
surrounding county. The summit of Barr Beacon,
a lofty mountain, on which the village of Great
Barr stands, was the spot from which the Druids
fave notice by watch-fires of their periodical sacri-
ces ; and it was used, both by the Saxons and the
Danes, as a beacon to alarm the country in times of
danger. — The chapel of Great Barr is remarkable
for the beauty of its architecture ; its eastern window
contains a painting on glass, by Mr. Eginton, who
has improved upon the design of the Rev. Mr.
Peter's " Spirit of a Child."
The extensive waste of Sutton Coldfield, sup-
posed to contain more than 6000 acres, and till
lately a rabbit-warren, is now partly inclosed.
Alrewas is mentioned in Domesday-book as the
possession of Algar, Earl of Mercia, whose son
Edwyn, having rebelled against the Conqueror
William, was deprived of this and his other estates.
It was then conferred on Walter Somerville. A
curious manuscript, communicated to the " Topo -
grapher," contains a succession of dates and occur-
rences from the year 1500, to 1623, when, says the
writer, the market-day at Lichfield was changed
from Wednesday, to Tuesday and Friday. The
Gunpowder-Plot is thus commemorated : —
" ANO : DNI : 1605. ANOCI. REG. RE. JACOBI 3tio.
" The Fyfte Daye of November the Parlament
should have begonne, at which daye their was a
great treason should have been wrought against
the Kinges Majestie, and all the whole house as-
sembled together by the device of a number of
Papistes, who had conspired by one Thomas Per-
cey, a Pensioner, with others, to have blowen up
the Parliament House with gonne powder, which
was placed in a vaute under the house to the num-
ber of XXXVI barrells, with faggottes, colles, and
billets, but the same was prevented by God Al-
mightie, by a letter sentteto the Lorde Montegele."
On Fradley and Alrewas common is a remarkable
spring, forty-two feet deep, which always overflows.
Armitage, 2| miles E.S.E. from Rudgeley, was
SB called from the residence of a hermit between the
river and the church : that edifice, situated on a
rqcky eminence, is curiously built and adorned in
the Saxon style.
Clifton Campville, five miles N. E. by N. from
Tamworth, derived the latter part of its name from
a family whose property it was, more than a century.
The church, adorned by oneof the finest spires in the
kingdom, contains nothing remarkable, except a few
neat paintings on glass, and a monument in honour
of Sir John Vernon, on which are the effigies of
that knight and his lady, in a recumbent posture,
both in their proper costume.
Drayton Basset, 2| miles S. S. W. from Tarn-
worth, received the second part of its name from the
illustrious family of Basset, who were long lords of
the manor, and whose tombs and escutcheons orna-
ment the interior of the church. That edifice is
modern, and imitative of the Gothic style.
Darlaston, situated in a valley south of the Trent,
is surrounded by fertile pasturage. The church,
which is of brick, was founded by Thomas Pye, an
author of the sixteenth century.
Elford, a village on the north bank of the Tame,
derived its name from the abundance of eels, with
which that river was formerly stored. The windows
of the church contain some fine stained glass ; and
a few monuments of the Ardernes, Smiths, and
Standleys, who were lords of the manor, at different
periods, are worthy of notice. Among them, is an
alabaster tomb of an Arderne and his lady, the
former armed with mail on his head, neck, and
shoulders, and wearing a cross of S. S. ; the latter,
bedecked with a pearl bonnet, and other of the
paraphernalia of wealth and rank. The armed
effigies of Sir William Smith lies between those of
his two wives, Isabel and Anne, the former of whom
wears a coronet. A recumbent figure of the eldest
son of Sir John Standley, holds a ball which appears
to have been the instrument of his death. It is in-
scribed : " Ubi dolor ibi digitus." At Elford-park
farm are two barrows, near which have been dis-
covered some human bones, and warlike instruments.
The village of Fairwell, is remarkable for the
antique appearance of its church, and its pictures-
que situation. In taking down a chapel here, in
1747, three rows of earthen vessels were discovered,
six feet below the surface of the ground, the mouths
of which were covered with a thin coat of plaster,
and turned towards the walls of the building.
Th« village of Hanbury, situated on an eminence
at the northern extremity of Need wood forest, affords
a noble prospect of fertile meadows, and black and
dreary mountains. St. Werburgh, sister of Ethelred
king of Mercia, was long superior of a nunnery here,
of which no vestige now remains.
Hamstal Ridware, (eastward from King's Brom-
ly) Pipe Ridware, and Mavesin Ridware, probably
once formed one parish, of which their common
suffix was the name. The church of Hamstal Rid-
ware contains some painted glass, and several hand-
some monuments. In a neat watch-tower, near it,
ascended by a stair-case, and open at the top, are
preserved a curious stone hammer ; a coat of mail
made for Charles the First ; and a valuable instru-
ment, used to silence the tongues of scolding wives.
The church of Pipe Ridware, contains a curious
stone font. Mavesin Ridware, received the former
part of its name from the illustrious family of MaL-
voisin,
STAFFORDSHIRE.
247
voisin, who once possessed it. The only remains
of the old manor-house is a gate-house, which con-
tains a chamber, said to have been an oratory. The
church of this village contains some antique monu-
ments ; among these, is the tomb of Sir Robert
Mavesin, who in the dissensions of the civil reign of
Henry IV., slew his neighbour Sir William, lord
of Hansacre. Vestiges of a priory of Benedictine
monks, in a retired valley, on the south bank of the
Blythe, may be still distinguished. The corpse of
Hugo, its founder, in a stone coffin, was raised^in
1785, after a repose of more than 600 years.
The village of Hints, four miles W. by S. from
Tamworth, is finely situated on the side of a con-
siderable eminence. Not far from the church, and
on the south side of the Roman way, is a tumulus,
which has not yet been opened ; but i§ supposed to
be of Roman construction. In the church, which
is a tine specimen of Grecian architecture, are several
monuments.
The agreeable village of Handsworth, 4| miles S.
E. by S. from Wednesbury, is of a considerable ex-
tent, and contains the fine demense attached to
Hampstead House. The Gothic church is adorned
with a few neat monuments, and some stained glass,
chiefly coats of arms.
In the neighbourhood of Handsworth, is situated
SOHO, the splendid manufactory of plated and similar
wares. The buildings are magnificent, and rendered
cheerful by a number of agreeable gardens. This
establishment was, at first, only intended for the
production of buttons, buckles, trinkets, and other
articles of a useful, though inferior kind ; but by
degrees, the proprietors introduced works of ele-
gance and taste ; and the factory soon obtained, as
it demanded, the encouragement of the king and
the principal nobility. The manufacture of wrought
plate has more recently been attempted with success.
An urn, in one of the groves that environ the elegant
mansion of Soho, is intended to perpetuate the me-
mory of Dr. William Small.
Longdon, (three miles N.W. by N. from Lichfield)
is, as its name expresses, a village of great extent,*
and is rendered further remarkable by the mansion
of Beaudesert, within its boundaries. This seat of
the Marquis of Anglesea, is made more famous by
the gallantry of its noble owner, than it could have
become by any other means, in a neighbourhood,
where it has many peers. It is, however, beauti-
fully situated ; truly magnificent, and worthy to be
the residence of a hero. The hill, on the side
of which it stands, has also on the summit an en-
campment ; called Castle Hill. The works are
circular, and have two entrances. Cannel coal is
found jn Longdon parish.
King's Bromley, 4| N. by E. from Lichfield, de-
rived its present name from having been the pro-
Ilence the proverb :—
The stoulest beggar that goes by the way,
Cann't beg through Long, on a Midsummer's day.
perty of the crown for more than two centuries after
the Conquest. The church is a fine antique Gothic
building, adorned with large and beautiful windows.
A womanf of this parish lived to see her descend-
ants to the fifth generation.
The church of Norton-under-Cannock, 5| miles
W. by S. from Lichfield, a neat Gothic edifice, con-
tains an ancient font, formed in one of the walls
of the tower. The manor-house of Little Wirley,
in this parish, is a curious specimen of ancient family
residences. The hall contains several pieces of ancient
armour, and some old wooden escutcheons.
Rolleston Park, 3| miles N. N. W. from Burton,
was long the seat of a family of that name ; and after-
wards of the Moseleys, in one of whom the ancient
title has been revived. The church of Rolleston has
a small spire, and contains some ancient monuments.
An old manuscript, written in the age of Eliza-
beth, in the British Museum, says of Rolleston ; it
" is well inhabited with divers honest men, whose
trade of living is only by husbandry, for the whole
manor consisted only in tillage :" they have " been
always accustomed to have their cattle and some-
times their plough-beasts, pastured in the Queen's
Majesty's park, at Rolleston for Lxxd from the first
Holyrood Day to the last Holyrood Day."
At Rowley Regis, some years ago, a pot was
found, containing 1200 Roman silver coins, of 140
different sorts, some of which bore fine heads of
Galba and Otho.
The mansion-house at Rushall, one mileN. E. by
N. from Walsall, is in ruins. Its remains are a good
specimen of the ancient baronial residence. The
whole area, upon which it stands, is about an acre.
One detached building, which is sometimes occupied
as a residence by the owner, stands near the centre
of this area. The church of Rushall is only a mutir
lated remnant of an old building in the pointed style
of architecture, having a plain tower atone end. In
the church-yard is a curious old cross. The lime-
stone in this parish is of superior quality.
Shenstone, three miles S. from Lichfield, is a neat
and pleasant village, the church of which, a very
ancient building in the form of a cross, stands in the
middle of the town. — Little Aston, a splendid man-
sion-house in this parish, stands in the middle of an
extensive lawn, well wooded, and embellished by a
fine lake and bridge. A fortification called- Castle-
old-fort, encompassed by a double ditch, appears
on a little hill adjoining the hamlet of Overstonall.
Tutbury, 4f miles N.W. by N. from Burton-on-
Trent, and 134 N. W. by N. from London, although
a free borough, never .enjoyed the privilege of send-
ing representatives to parliament. Wool-combing
is the staple occupation of a considerable portion of
its inhabitants. The castle is said to have been first
erected long before the Conquest ; hut built by
•)• Mary Cooper, who could say to her daughter, " Rise
daughter, go to thy daughtcr> for thy daughter's daughter
hath a daughter."
Henri
'248
STAFFORDSHIRE.
Henri de Ferrars, to whom the Conqueror gave
five estates in Staffordshire. Having fallen to the
crown by the forfeiture of Robert de Ferrars, the
rebel Earl of Derby, Henry the Third gave it to
his second son Edmund, Earl of Lancaster ; whose
descendant Thomas, was deprived of it in his re-
bellion. Being the principal seat of the Dukes of
Lancaster, it was the scene of much festivity and
splendour, and to preserve order among the multi-
tude of minstrels who resorted thither, a king was
chosen, to whom a curious charter was ganlecl, by
John of Gaunt. But this musical monarch having
with his officers of state committed several oppres-
sive acts, a court of appeal was instituted, in which
the steward of the manor was appointed to preside
with full powers. This court was held on the mor-
row of the Assumption, when a grand procession,
with other ceremonies, attending the election of a
new king, took place. Among their diversions, a
bull, deprived of his horns, ears, and tail, and his
body besmeared with soap, was to be caught by the
minstrels, and afterwards baited with dogs. An
annual court, called the Minstrel's, continues to be
held at the steward's house. The ill-fated Queen
of Scots was long confined in Tutbury castle, where
she was treated with humanity by her keeper, the
Earl of Shrewsbury, till Hastings, a pretender to
her throne, was joined in the commission ; she was
then subjected to such rigorous treatment that her
health was much impaired. It was at the solicitation
of the French ambassador, that she was permitted to
visit Buxton : she afterwards returned to Tutbury,
•where her situation was made wretched by the harsh
and unmanly conduct of Sir Amias Paulet, and Sir
Drue Drury. She was removed to Chartley, in
1586. The castle was besieged, and much injured
by the parliamentary forces in the civil war, and,
about the close of that calamitous period, an order
was issued for its demolition. James the Second
visited it in his memorable tour. What remains
declares its former grandeur. It is situated on a
hill of alabaster, and was first built with free-stone,
and surrounded by a moat, over which was thrown
a bridge, composed of different pieces of wood, none
of which were more than a yard long. Although
this bridge was unsupported by any pillars or piers,
all authors agree, that " the more weight was on it,
the ' stronger it was." Of the priory, which was
founded by the same person, and at the same time
as the castle, and well endowed by his successors,
and even by some sovereigns, scarcely a vestige
now remains, except the church, a part of which is
used for the celebration of divine service. — Ann
Moore, the celebrated fasting woman of Tutbury,
of whom most of our readers have heard, was at
length proved to be an impostor. She died a short
time ago.
The ancient forest, or chase, of Needwood, ob-
serves Shaw, the historian of the county, " the most
beautiful part of the honour of Tutbury, is situate
in the northern extremity of the hundred of Offlow,
and in the four parishes of Tutbury, Hanbury,
Tatenhill, and Yoxall. — The curious survey, in the
1° Queen Elizabeth, says, " the forest or chase of
Needwod, is in compasse by estimation, 23 miles
and an half, and the nearest part thereof is distant
from the castle of Tutbury but one mile. In it are
7869 acres and an halfe, and very forest-like ground,
thinly sett with old oakes and timber trees, well
replenished with coverts of underwood and thornes,
which might be copiced in divers parts thereof, for
increase of wood and tymher, lately sore decayed
and spoylfid. It is divided into four wards, viz.
Tutbury Ward, Marchington Ward, Yoxall Ward,
and Barton Ward, each containing- five miles or
more in compass, besides other fair woods, as
Uttoxeter Wood, Rough, Haye, &c." — The forest
is governed by a lieutenant, chief ranger, and other
officers, viz. surveyor, or ax-bearer, four keepers,&.c.
The king's steward of the honour of Tutbury holds
an annual court for the forest, called the Woodmoty '
Court, at which all the above officers attend ; and a
jury of 24 men, who live within the jurisdiction,
present and amerce all incroachments and offences
in the forest and wood, and in vert and venison."
On the 15th of August, 1809, a new church (Christ's
Church) was consecrated in Needwood forest. When
the act of parliament passed for the inclosure of this
forest, containing upwards of 7400 acres, belonging
to his Majesty, it soon became evident that the
population would increase so rapidly, as to require
some new arrangement, with respect to the means
of public worship and religious instruction ; and the
late Isaac Hawkins, Esq. of Burton-upon-Trent,
having bequeathed to his executors (Isaac Hawkins
Brome, Esq. and the Rev. Thomas Gisborn) a large
sum of money for pious and charitable uses, they
made a proposal, that, if the king would grant in
perpetuity an adequate portion of the forest land for
the site of a church, and the support of its minister,
they would engage that a church and parsonage-
house should be erected upon it. The proposal met
the royal approbation ; and in 1805, an act of par-
liament was obtained, enabling his Majesty to make
the necessary allotment. The patronage was vested
in the crown. By an act for the permanent accommo-
dation of the poor, it was enacted, that not less
than one half of the church should remain in open
and unappropriated sittings. And it ought to be
recorded to the honour of his Majesty, that the act
having left him an option of granting for the endow-
ment any quantity of land, between 105 and 160
acres, he was pleased most liberally to direct, that
the largest number should be assigned. The ex-
ecutors of Mr. Hawkins furnished towards the ex-
pence of the act and the buildings, 300/. ; to which
656/. was added by private subscription.
Tatenhill is an extensive parish on the eastern
side of Needwood forest. The vilLge lies between
two lofty hills. The tower of the ctiurcb, a large
and heavy building, is remarkable as the object of
an echo, which reverberates distinctly five syllables.
The
STAFFORDSHIRE.
249
The church of Burton-under-wood, a hamlet in
Tatenhill parish, contains some rich specimens of
ancient stained glass, the best of which represent
our Saviour on the cross, and the twelve Apostles.
A variety of Roman coins were discovered, a few
years since, at Callingwood, at which place was for-
merly kept a model of the Holy Sepulchre at Shit-
tira-wood. Salt is so plentifully mixed with the soil
of this parish, that even black cattle, which feed on
the grass, are soon changed to a dun colour. — Sinai
Park, the property of the Marquis of Anglcsea, is
in this neighbourhood.
Tamworth, 22 miles S. E. by E. from Stafford,
and 115J N. VV. byN. from London, situated at the
confluence of the Tame and, the Anker, is divided
by the former into two parts, one of which is in
Warwickshire. Its name, in Saxon, Tamanweorthe,
signifies the island of the river Tame. It was a
favourite residence of the Mercian kings, and, at a
very early period, a place of some note. After
being destroyed by the Danes in their invasion of the
island, Tamworth was rebuilt by the heroine Ethel-
fleda, the daughter of Alfred and the sister and de-
fender of Edward, his successor. This town first
sent representatives to Parliament in the reign of
Elizabeth. The corporation consists of two bailiffs,
(one from each division of the town,) a recorder, and
twenty-four capital burgesses. The situation of
Tamworth, at the conflux of two considerable
ntreams, and surrounded by luxuriant meadows, is
pleasant and even picturesque. It has two bridges.
The castle, which was inhabited till the beginning
of the last century, is still entire, and belongs to
the Marquis of Townshend. Some of the rooms
are decorated with escutcheons richly sculptured,
arid in the hall is a rude portraiture of a combat
between Sir Launcelot of the Lake and Sir Turquiu,
two knights of King Arthur's round table. The
church, which is very spacious, exhibits various
styles of building, and is surmounted by a heavy
tower. Many monuments, chiefly of the Freviles
and Ferrers, adorn the interior. The Hospital was
founded by Guy, the bookseller, on the site of
one erected by Philip Martmon. The branches of
commerce chiefly carried on at Tamworth are, a
manufacture of narrow woollen cloths, calico-print-
ing, tanning, and ale-brewing. The Grammar
School, an excellent and flourishing institution, was
founded by Queen Elizabeth.
The village of Wichnor, or Whichnoure, situated
on an eminence near the. north bank of the Trent,
5{ miles N. E. from Lichh'eld, is remarkable for a
custom, or service, similar to that observed at
Little Dunmow, in Essex. In the charter, by which
the Earl of Lancaster gave to Sir P. De Somerville
the manor of Wichnor, the latter is bound to keep
a flitch of bacon in his hall, ready to be delivered
to such claimants, as, being married, can affirm,
upon oath, their perfect and unchanged satisfaction
with their condition, after their having remained
and continued in it for oue year and a day : and the
VOL. iv. — NO. 159.
Lord of Rudlowe was bound to carry the said flitch
of bacon to the residence of the successful applicant,
with half a quarter of rye, if he were a villein ; and
if free with half a quarter of wheat, and a cheese.
Three couples only have claimed this reward of
wedded harmony, since its institution ; ami a wooden
flitch is now substituted for the bacon. The Roman
road from Burton to Lichfield passes through a
marsh in this parish, and is supported by large piles
of wood. The Grand Trunk canal crosses the Trent
at this place, by a fine aqueduct.
The parish of Weeford, four miles S. S. E. from
Lichfield, contains the barrow, which gives name
to the hundred. It has been supposed the sepulchre
of Offa ; but Dr. Plot says it contains the bones of
some chieftain here slain in battle. The mansion of
the Swinsens, built by the lather of Mr. Wyatt, the
present celebrated architect, stands at a short dis-
tance from Weeford.
Wa'lsall, 16} miles S. E. hy S. from Stafford, and'
126 N. W. from London, is the second market-
town in the county, a place of great antiquity,
and a town corporate ; the government being vested
in a mayor, a recorder, twenty-four aldermen, a
town clerk, two Serjeants at mace, and a beadle ;
it does not, however, send members to parliament.
The manufacture of buckles, bridle-bits, spurs,
stirrups, and other articles used in saddlery, is
carried on here. A remarkable practice, called
distributing the dole-penny, prevails at Walsall.
An inhabitant, named Moscley, happening to hear
a child cry for food, in a plaintive tone, on the eve
of Epiphany, was so moved by it, that he vowed,
none should thenceforward, on that day, feel alike
want, and he accordingly made over to the corpo-
ration the manor of Bascot, to maintain the charity,
which consists in giving a dole of one penny to
every person resident in the borough, or the villages
belonging to it. The church, an edifice of great
antiquity, in the form of a cross, has an elegant
tower and spire. One of the entrances is a massy
Gothic archway of curious workmanship. An ex-
cellent free grammar-school was founded at Wal-
sall, by Elizabeth, or her successor. Bascot Hall,,
enclosed by a moat, and approached by a pair of
iron gates and a picturesque bridge, occupies the
site of the baronial residence of the Mo«ntforts.
Wednesfield, on the western boundary of the
hundred, was the scene of an engagement between
Edward the Elder, the successor of Alfred the
Great, and the Danes. The number and extent of
the tumuli, indicate an immense slaughter.
Wednesbury, a market town of great antiquity,
19 miles S. S. E. from Stafford, and 124-J N. W.
from London, is distinguished for its many valuable
manufactures, chiefly of guns, and works in cast
iron. Enamel paintings, in the first style, are among
the productions of its industrious inhabitants, who are-
much indebted for their proficiency in these arts to the
abundance of excellent coal which the neighbour-
hood' affords. A kind of earth, called hip, used in-
3 R. painting
250
STAFFORDSHIRE
painting of glazing vessels, is found here ; and
that sort of iron ore denominated blond metal,
chiefly used in the manufacture of nails and horses
shoes. The church stands on the top of the nil
•where formerly stood the castle ; it has a handsome
tower and spire, and contains some monuments ol
the Dudley and Harcourt family. In repairing the
roof, a few years ago, the workmen found, carefully
wrapped up in lead, a piece of oak, on which was
engraved the date of the supposed erection of the
church, 711.
Dudley Castle, said to have been founded by a
Saxon chief named Dodo, or Dudo, about the year
760, was bestowed by the Conqueror on William
Fitz-Ausculph, one of his principal followers, and
passed threugh the Pagnel and Somery families in
succession till it became the property of the Suttons
by marriage with the heiress of Roger de Somery.
One of this family was called to the peerage by the
title of Lord Dudley. The cnstle was twice be-
sieged, and much injured in the seventeenth cen-
tury ; and was at length abandoned by the noble
owner. It subsequently served as a retreat for
coiners. It is situated on a limestone hill, three
miles southward from Wednesbury, and consists, in
its present state, of a number of buildings which
surround a court, and are encompassed by a wall
flanked with towers. Of these buildings the keep
appears the most ancient.
West Bromwich, 2| miles S. E. from Wednes-
bury, contains Sandwell park, the seat of the Earl
of Dartmouth. This mansion, wWli is constructed
of brick, stuccoed-white, forms a square, the angles
of which rise considerably higher than the rest of
the building. The village is remarkable as the
birth-place of Walter Parsons, a prodigy of strength
in the reign of James I., whose porter he was.
Yoxall, at the southern extremity of Needwood
forest, and watered by the Swarbourne, was formerly
a market town. The church contains some antique
monuments. Some vessels, containing human bones,
supposed to be Roman, were discovered a few
years since near the village.
The village of Wall, 2* miles S. S. W. from
Lichfield, with Chesterfield, is generally supposed
to occupy the site of the Roman Etocetum, of which
not any traces can be discovered. A vast pile
of ruins, between the Watling Street and the Lich-
field road, are the remains of the castle ; and by
the side of a road northward from the village are
considerable remains of the town wall. A variety
of flower- pots, and other curious antiquities, have
been found in a field called Chesterfield Crofts, on
the south side of Watling Street. Between Wall
and Pipehill, a fortification was discovered a few
years ago, which consisted of entire trunks of trees,
ranged perpendicularly and close to each other to
the extent of 500 yards. Each piece of this barri-
cade was 10 or 12 inches thick, and 12 feet long,
having loop-holes three feet long, for observing or
annoying an enemy.
PIREHILL.]— The hundred of Pyrehill Is In the
norttl-western division of the county, and advances
a considerable way into its centre. It contains the
following parishes : — Abbot's Bromley, Adbaston;
Ashley, Audley, Blithfield, Barlaston, Blurton,
Betley, Burslem, Bucknall, Bidulph, Broughton,
Colwich, Colton, Chebsey, Ellenhall, Ecclcshall,
Fradswell, Fulford, Gayton, High Offley, Hanley,
Keel, Lane-end, Muckleston, Maer, Madeley, Mil-
wich, Maston, Newcastle, Norton in the Moors,
Ronton, Stoke-on-Trent, Stafford, Stowe, Sandon,
Stone, Seighford^ Standon, Swinnerton, Tixall,
Thursfield, Talk on the Hill, Trentham, Whitmorc,
Woolstanton, and Weston on Trent.
Abbots' Bromley, 4f miles N. N. E. fromRudge-
ley, and 129 N. W. by N. from London, was for-
merly a place of some importance, and possessed
privileges which are HOW forgotten or neglected.
It consists of one principal street, near the middle
of which stands the town-hall. The church is large,
and possesses a lofty steeple, which contains an ex-
cellent peal of bells. The town has also a free-
school and an alms-house, well endowed for six poor
women. The hobby-horse dance, a ridiculous cus-
tom, by which money was collected for repairing
churches, and relieving the poor, prevailed at
Abbot's Bromley, a short time before Dr. Plot wrote
his History of Staffordshire, in which he describes
it.
Blithfield, the seat of theBagots, two miles from
Abbots' Bromley, is an ancient building in the form
of a court. This mansion contains a splendid col-
lection of paintings, chiefly portraits, many of them
the productions of the first masters- Some of the
Bagot family, with those of the Lord-Treasurer
Burleigh, the Earl of Huntingdon, Sir Walter
Aston, Walter, Earl of Essex, the father of Eliza-
beth's unfortunate favourite, and a head of Molie're,
claim particular notice. The church of Blithfield
is an ancient edifice, the interior of which is adorned
with some sculptured monuments of the fifteenth
century, chiefly in honour of the Bagots.
The small village of Audley, a little to the north
of Healey Castle, confers the title of Baron Audley
on the noble family of that name. Dr. Plot informs
us, that, in his time, remains of an ancient castie
might be discovered there.
Betley, 7{ miles W. by N. from Newcastle,
was formerly a market town. The houses are neat,
and the church, erected at different periods, is wor-
thy of notice. The windows contain some remains
of painted glass ; and the interior exhibits the re-
cords of many benefactions to the indigent. The
gardens of Betley are remarkably productive.
The parish of Biddulph, nearly at the western ex-
remity of the county, contains some curious remains
of antiquity. The principal are the Bidestones, eight
n number, of which two stand within a semicircle
brined by the other six. It is supposed that the
3ircle was formerly complete. Westward from these,
S the pavement of a cave, composed of fragments
of
STAFFORDSHIRE,
251
ofsfone, which, tvlien discovered, were strewed with
oak charcoal, and burnt bones. The sides of this
cave were formed by two large stones, 18 feet long,
and six feet high ; the covering, or roof, was of long
flat stones. It was equally divided by one large
stone, which had in the middle, a circular hole, 19*
inches in diameter. Two other caves were found
near it, similarly constructed, but smaller, and want-
ing the partition. All of them were covered with a
large heap of stones.
Burslem, 2| miles N.N. E. from Newcastle, and
finely situated on a gentle eminence, lies in the mid-
dle of the district, called the Potteries, which reaches
from Lane End to Golden Hill, an extent of more
than eight miles. This manufacture is, perhaps,
superior to any of the kind in Europe, and is not
surpassed in usefulness, or even in beauty, by the
potteries of China. The church of Burslem is an
ancient structure, with a massive tower.
At Buckuall, near Shelton, was born Thomas
Allen, a celebrated mathematician of the sixteenth
century.*
Chebsey, north of Ellenhall, was originally the
property of the Hastings family. A lofty pyramidal
stone in the church-yard, was long thought to be
the shaft of a cross, but Dr. Plot decided, that it is
a monument of Danish erection.
The scenery about Colwich, is the most beautiful
in the county. It is a verdant valley, through which
Hows the Trent. The church contains some monu-
ments of the Anson and Wolseley families.
Ellenhall, N.W. of Ronton, is the seat of thenoble
family of Noel, one of Whom was raised to the peer-
age by James the First, under the title of Lord
Noel, of Ridlington.
The town of Eccleshall, 7| miles N. W. by W.
from Stafford, and 148 N. W. from London, neat
antl regularly built, is remarkable for its ancient
castle, which was founded at a Very early period,
and is at present inhabited by the bishops of Lichfield,
to whom it has belonged since the thirteenth century.
In 1310, it was entirely rebuilt, and, having received
considerable damage during a severe siege by the
republican forces, in the civil war, Bishop Lloyd
renewed the whole south front, in 1695. The church,
is the place in which Queen Margaret was concealed
by bishop liaise, after her flight from Muccleston.
Byana, an ancient edifice near the castle, was long
the residence of the Bosviles. The Bishop's woods,
which lie two or three miles westward from Eccles-
hall, contain 1300 acres, principally of oak, with a
large quantity of underwood. Broughton Hall, the
seat of Sir Thomas Broughton, is near the western
boundary of this wood. Blore heath, the scene of
a furious battle between the Yorkists under the
Earl of Salisbury, and the Lancastrians command-
ed by Lord Audley, lies five miles from Eccleshall.
* Having taken his degree at Trinity College, Oxford, be
retired to Gloster hall, where he continued his studies with
great assiduity, and soon became celebrated for his knowledge.
Robert, Earl of Leicester, offered him a bishopric, and Henry,
V
Margaret witnessed the defeat of her forces from
the church of Mucclestoiu Lord Audley was slain,
and on the spot where he fell a wooden cross was
erected, which is now raised on a stone pedestal,
with the following inscription : —
" OS THIS SPOT
WAS FOUGHT THE BAT'fLE OF
BLORE-HEATH
IN 1459.
LORD AUDLEY,
WHO COMMANDED FOR TltE SIDE Of LANCASTER.
WAS DEFEATED AND SLAIN.
TO PERPETUATE THE MEMORY
OK THE ACTION AND THK PLACE,
THIS ANCIENT MONUMENT
WAS REPAIRED IN
1765,
AT THE CHARGE OF THE LORD OF THE MANOR.
CHARLES BOWTHBV SCRYMSHER."
The church of Handley, 2* ihilcs N. E. by ti,
from Newcastle, built of brick, and adorned with a
lofty tower, is distinguished for its elegance. Etruriaj
the seat of Josiah Wedgewood, Esq. is situated
about a mile from the town.
The church of Lane End is built of brick, appa-
rently in imitation of Handley church. There arc
several other places of public worship, and two
market-bouses.
Maer, or Mere, north of Muccleston, derived its
name from its comprehending an extensive lake>
which here forms the head of the river Tern. The!
fortress of Burgh, an irregular fortification in thfa
parish, is a remarkable monument of Saxon anti-
quity. It consists of a double trench and rampart
of stone, constructed on an eminence, from which
two natural projections resemble bastions. It was
approached by a narrow path up to the steep sides,
yet visible. The neighbourhood of this place is
covered with tumuli, which indicate that some
important action must have taken place here. One
of these barrows, called Coplow, of a considerable
height and conical form, is supposed to be the sepul-
chre of Osrid, the King of Northumberland, who
invaded Mercia.
The church of Madeley, 5} miles W. by S. from
Newcastle, contains many monuments. The pulpit
is of oak, carved, with Saxon arches. On the south
wall is a list of benefactions to the poor of Madeley,
to a large amount ; the greater part of which were
bestowed by Sir John Offley. The inscriptions and
other memorials of the Egerton family are very
numerous. A large urn, raised upon a lofty marble
pedestal, which is sculptured on three sides, is
inscribed to the memory of the above Sir John
Offley, and dated 1688. A free-school for boys and
girls, near the church, was endowed by the same
gentleman.
Earl of Northumberland^ solicited his counsel in most politi-
cal transactions of moment. He made a valuable collection of.
manuscripts in different departments of science ; and died in
1632.
Mucclestoa
252
STAFFORDSHIRE.
Muccleston is situated on a rising ground, about
a mile from Blore-heath, The church has a lofty
tower.
The market-house at Stoke-upon-Trent, If mile
east from Newcastle, lately made a market-town,
is handsome, and furnished with all the accommo-
dations requisite for its object. The church is ancient,
and built in the Saxon style of architecture.
Considerable remains of a monastery of Augus-
tine monks are to be seen at Ronton, two miles W.
from Colon Clanford. They consist principally of
a lofty well-built tower, and some outer walls of a
church, with a small portion of the cloisters.
The mansion -house at Sandon, half a mile E. from
Burton, is an elegant building, situated on the side
of a considerable eminence, on the summit of which
stands the church. The latter edifice contains, among
other monuments, that of Sampson Erdeswicke, the
Staffordshire antiquary, which represents him in a
recumbent posture. In two niches near him, are his
two wives. An inscription on this monument, of
considerable length, ends with the punning motto of
the Vernons, his progenitors : — " Fernoit semper
viret." He possessed considerable learning, and
talent for research, and being anxious to elucidate
the history and antiquities of his native county, he
began " a View of Staffordshire," which he con-
tinued till the day of his death, in 1603.
Stanton, a township in the parish of Ellaston, wa«
the birth-place of Gilbert Sheldon, Archbishop of
Canterbury. In the room where he was born are
the following verses, written by bishop Hacket, in
a visit he paid it, out of reverence to this great pre-
late :—
" Sheldonus ilia przsulum primus Pater,
Hos inter ortus aspicit lucem Lares
O ter beatatn Stantonis •eillie cusam !
Cut canita possunt invidere Marmora."
The archbishop was, however, intolerant ; and,
when the king was willing to be reconciled to the
presbyterians, he interposed to prevent that desirable
arrangement ; nevertheless, he left behind him a
very high Character for piety and benevolence : he
expended 15,000/. in building the theatre at Oxford,
besides a donation of 2000/. for repairing it in per-
petuum.
Stone, .seven miles N. by W. from Stafford, and
140! N.W. by N. from London, is situated on the
north bank of the Trent. It was remarkable, in
former times, for two religious foundations, a monas-
tery of Augustine monks endowed by Wulphere,
king of Mercin, who having first embraced Chris-
tianity and then relapsed into paganism, became
the murderer of his two s_ons for professing the true
religion ; and a nunnery established by Ermenudo
his queen, of which some fragments still exist. The
modern church of Stone is neatly built, but dis
figured by a diminutive tower.
The church of Stow, three miles E. from Sandon
contains a monument of Walter, first Viscount Here
brd and Knight of the Garter, who fought with
listinguished valour in France, during the reign of
Jenry the Eighth. It is an altar-tomb supporting
lis effigies, chid in his robes, and the collar of the
Barter. His two wives lie near him on each side.
The sides are ornamented with six male and female
igures, the former with swords.
Adjoining to Stow, is Chartley, an ancient build -
ng, some time the residence of Mary, Queen of
Scots. Near it, on an artificial hill, stands the
•emains of a castle, built by the Earl of Chester,
n 1220, These ruins consist of two towers, and
part of a wall, which measures twelve feet in thick-
ness. The loop-holes are so constructed as to allow
arrows to be shot into the ditch exactly under them.
The manor of Swineston, four miles north from
Eccleshall, belonged at the Conquest to a person,
called Aslam, whose descendants assumed the name
of Swinnerton, and possessed the estate till the
reign of Henry the Eighth, when the daughter of
the last male heir married William Fitz-herbert,
from whom the present proprietor is lineally de-
scended. The mansion, situated on a gentle emi-
nence, near the church, commands an extensive view
of Staffordshire, Shropshire, and Worcestershire.
The school-house contains a colossal statue of our
Saviour, which was discovered a few years since,
in a place where it had been deposited in safety
from the fanatical zeal of the reformers. In the
church, is a plain altar-tomb, which supports the
recumbent figure of a knight.
Tixal Hall, at the confluence of the rivers Sow
and Trent, is a modern building of brick, remark-
able only for a magnificent gateway, of Gothic and
Grecian architecture, with three rows of columns,
Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian. The adjoining heath
has two tumuli, one called the King's, and the other
the Queen's Low, near which two urns were found
about a century ago, apparently of Roman work-
manship.
Ingestre Hall, north-west from Tixal, is a re-
spectable old edifice, on an eminence sheltered by
oaks of an enormous size. The two ends are cir-
cular projections, and the entrance, under a hand-
some tower, also a projection, is surmounted by an
elegant balustrade, which passes along the whole
front. The church, a neat edifice, built by Walter
Chetwynd, of Ingestre, in 1673, is adorned with
a handsome tower. The interior is paved with black
and white marble, and contains many escutcheons
•and monuments of the Chetwynd family i The pulpit
is curiously adorned with carved and iron work, gilt
and painted. A severe action was fought at Hopton
heath, between the parliamentary and royal forces,
in which the Earl of Northampton, who commanded
the latter, was slain, with many other officers oi
rank. Both sides claimed Hie victory, wliich might
belong to the royalists, though all its consequences
were in favour of their enemies, whose loss was
comparatively small. Beacon Hill, between lloptoi
Heath and Stafford, was formerly a. signal post
am
STAFFORDSHIRE.
253
and upon St. Amon's heath, near it, a smart action
was fought, in 1643, between the royal and par-
liamentary troops.
A mineral spring, at Willowbridge, in the neigh-
bourhood of Blore-heath, was discovered by Lady
Bromley to be medicinal, and proved, by a chemical
test, to contain more rectified sulphur than any
other in the county. The water, of which sixty
springs rise within the space of ten yards, is clear
as crystal.
Trenthara, 3| miles S. S. E. from Newcastle,
stands on the southern hank of the Trent, from
which it derives its name. It gives title to the
Marquis of Stafford, whose seat here is one of the
finest in the county. Formerly there was at Trent-
haiu, a very ancient nunnery, refounded in the reign
of William the Second, which, at the Dissolution,
had seven teiigieux. — Within these few years, the
Marquis of Stafford completed here a building of
a singular construction, being the only edifice of the
sort in this country. It is a cemetery, after the
manner of the Roman tombs, aitd like them is
situated on the road side. The ancients usually built
their mausolea near the highways, which, while they
reminded them of their ancestors, formed a useful
warning to a traveller to mind his business, and not
to loiter on the road. The building is of stone, of the
most durable workmanship, and exhibits a style of
grand and solid architecture, highly expressive of
the subject ; it is a square of 40 feet on the base,
and rises pyramidally 40 feet high. The inside
contains forty catacombs under one ground arch of
stone ; the whole is lined with a beautiful dark and
highly polished marble. The building was nearly
three years in the hands of the workmen, under the
directions of Tatham, the architect. The noble mar-
quis's other improvements at Trentham are upon
the most liberal and magnificent scale.
Near Barlaston, is Aston Hall, the ancient man-
sion of the Astons, a large and magnificent edifice,
approached by a stone bridge over a deep moat
which surrounds it. The demesne around is finely
wooded with lime and other trees. Beneath the thick
shade of a grove, westward from the house, is a
mausoleum of the Simeon family.
The hill, called Bury Bank, at a short distance
from Darlasion, is crowned with the ruins of an
ancient castle, or entrenchment, 250 yards in dia-
meter, and defended by a trench and ramparts. A
conical mount, or tumulus, on the south side, is
supposed to be formed by the ruins of a Prsetorium.
* Having taken both his degrees in arts anil entered into
Deacon's orders at Cambridge, lie engaged himself as usher
at Birmingham school, and became lecturer at a chapel in the
neighbourhood. In 1688, the death of a rich relative made
him master of a plentiful income, and he removed to London,
where he married, and continued to reside till his death. He
was skilled in the learned languages, as well as in philosophy,
criticism, mathematics, history, and antiquities. His prin-
cipal work, entitled, " The Religion of Nature delineated,"
VOL. IV. — NO. 159.
Chestcrton-under-Line, 2| miles N. by W. from
Newcastle, was a town and fortress of considerable
importance before the Conquest ; but, as early as
the reign of Henry the Third, who granted it to
his youngest son, it had wholly fallen to decay.
In the neighbourhood of Betley, are the remains
of Healey Castle, situated on a lofty rock.
At Coton Clanford, a small village, three miles
from Stafford, was horn in 1659, William Wollas-
ton, a distinguished philosophical writer.*
The village of Congreve, in the neighbourhood
of Penkri^lge, had the honour of giving birth to
the celebrated Dr. Hurd, Bishop of Worcester, who
was the son of a respectable farmer. He received
the rudiments of his education in the academy of
Anthony Blackwall, at Market Bosworth, and that
of the Rev. William Budworth at Brewood, whence
he removed to Emanuel College, Cambridge. He-
there formed an intimate friendship with Warbur-
ton, Mason, and other distinguished characters;
and, after prosecuting his studies with great assi-
duity, was presented to the living of Thurcaston by
the fellows of the college. He published an edition
of Horace, in 1753, with notes and various com-
mentaries, accompanied by two critical dissertations
on dramatic poetry, and poetical imitation. He
afterwards produced " an Essay on the Delicacy of
Friendship," " a Dissertation on the marks of Imi-
tation," and " Remarks on Hume's Essay on the
Natural History of Religion." After some time he
published his " Moral and Political Dialogues," of
which a second edition appeared in 1764, and in
1772, he dedicated a volume of Sermons to Lord
Mansfield. Shortly after he appeared as the editor
of "Select Works of Abraham Cowley." In tho'
year 1775 the bishopric of Lichfield and Coventry,
and that of Bangor, being offered by his Majesty
to his acceptance, he chose the former. From thi*
see he was translated to that of Worcester, in 1781.
This appointment he continued to hold till his death,
which happened at Hartlebury palace on the 28th
of May, 1808, having declined the highest dignity
of the church, the see of Canterbury, offered to him.
in 1783.— After the death of Warburton, who left to
him the settlement of his domestic affairs, he brought
forward an edition of all that prelate's works.
At the village of Shelton, north from Newcastle,
was born Elijah Fenton, one of the co-adjutors of
Pope, in his translation of the Odyssey.f
POTTERIES.] — The celebrated Staffordshire pot-
teries, which we have slightly mentioned in our
account
was much read ; but it exposed him to the censure of
some zealous Christians, and even drew upon him the sus-
picion of being an infidel, an opinion for which there does not
seem to be much reason, if we consider his design was not to
meddle with revealed religion.
f His family was ancient, and possessed of considerable pro-
perty, lie was educated for the church ; but he disqualified
himself, by refusing the oaths, and became usher of a school in
Surrey. After this, he was appointed by the Earl of Orrery
3 s l"s
254
STAFFORDSHIRE.
account of Burslcm, merit a more detailed notice.
That extensive and populous district, now denomi-
nated " The Potteries," is better adapted, observes
Dr. Aikin, from the numerous and abundant coal
mines which it contains, for the manufactures of
earthen-wares, than, perhaps, for any other. The
measures or strata, by which the beds of coal are
divided, generally consist of clays of different kinds,
some of which make excellent fire brick, for build-
ing the potters' kilns and " saggars," (a corruption
of the German " Schrager," cases or supporters)
in which the ware is burnt. Finer clays, ef various
colours and textures, are also plentiful in many
places, most of them near the surface of the earth ;
and of these the wares themselves were formerly
made. The coals being then also got near the sur-
face, were plentiful and cheap. In the time of Plot,
they were as low as two -pence the horse load, or
sixteen pence the ton. In 1801 they were from seven
to eight shillings ; and they are now much higher.
The land, having chiefly a clay bottom, was un-
favourable to tillage, and the remoteness of these
districts from the principal seats of commerce con-
tributed to render labour cheap.
This manufacture can be traced with certainty
for more than two centuries back. Its principal
seat was formerly the town of Burslem ; and it was
then called a butter pottery, that is, a manufactory
of pots for keeping butter. Even so late, however,
as the time when Plot wrote, the quantity of goods
manufactured was so inconsiderable, that the chief
sale of them was to the poor cratemen, who carried
them at their backs all over the country? The ware
was then of the coarse yellow, red, black, and mot-
tled kind, made from clays found in the neighbour-
hood ; its body being formed of the inferior kinds of
clay, and afterwards painted or mottled with the
finer coloured ones, mixed with water, separately
blended together, much in the same manner as paper
is marbled. The common glaze was produced by
lead ore, finely powdered, and sprinkled on the
pieces of ware before firing ; sometimes with the
addition of a little manganese, for the sake of the
brown colour it communicates ; and where the pot-
ters wished to shew the utmost of their skill, in
giving the ware a higher gloss than ordinary, they
employed, instead of lead ore, calcined lead itself ;
but still sprinkled it on the pieces in the same rude
manner. Soon afterwards, a new species of glaze
was introduced, by throwing into the kiln, wheu
brought to its greatest heat, a quantity of common
salt, the fumes of which occasioned a superficial
vitrification of the clay. This practice was first
brought hither about the year 1690, by two foreign-
ers of the name of Elers, who established a small
pot-work at Bradley. The inhabitants of Burslem,
. ^_ »
his secretary and tutor to his son. By the recommendation of
Pope, he was engaged to assist Mr. Craggs, then Secretary of
State, in the studies which he found necessary to supply the
deficiencies of bis education. That statesman having died,
&c. flocked with astonishment to see the immense
volumes of smoke, which rose " from the Dutch-
men's ovens," on casting in the salt. The same
persons also introduced another species of ware, in
imitation of the unglazed red China from the east ;
and the clays in this country being suitable for their
purpose, they succeeded wonderfully for a first at-
tempt, insomuch that some of their tea-pots are
said to have been sold as high as a guinea a piece.
Some of the specimens, still preserved, are excellent
in their kind. The Elers, finding the manufacturers
about them very inquisitive, and not choosing Ur
have their labours so narrowly inspected, soon
quitted Staffordshire, and set up a manufacture
near London. — This practice of the new glaze with
salt was succeeded, in a short time, by a capital
improvement in the body of the ware itself, which
tradition attributes to the following incident : " Mr.
Artbury, one of the potters, in a journey to London,
happened to have powdered flint recommended to
him, by the hostler of his inn at Dunstable, for cur-
ing some disorder in one of his horse's eyes ; and for
that purpose a flint stone was thrown into the fire,
to render it more easily pulverizable. The potter
observing the flint to be changed by the fire, to a
pure white, was immediately struck with the idea,
that his ware might be improved, by an addition of
this material, to the whitest clays he could procure.
Accordingly he sent home a quantity of the flint
stones, which are plentiful among the chalk in that
part of the country ; and, on trial of them with
tobacco pipe-clay, the event answered his expecta-
tions." Thus originated the white stone ware, which
soon supplanted the coloured, and continued for
many years the staple branch of pottery. The dis-
covery was kept as secret as possible ; but, becom-
ing generally known, the increase of demand for
the flint powder occasioned trials to be made of
mills, of various constructions, for stamping and
for grinding it. This method is still continued :
the ground flint comes from the mill in a liquid
state, about the consistence of cream ; and the to-
bacco-pipe clay being mixed up with water, about
the same consistence, the two liquors are propor-
tioned to one another by measure, instead of weight.
The use of flint hnd not been long introduced, when
an improvement was made, by an ingenious mechanic
in the neighbourhood, Mr. Alsager, in the potter's
wheel, by which its motion was greatly accelerated.
This enabled the potters to form their ware with
greater expedition and facility, and also with more
neatness and precision than they had done before. —
The manufacture was so far improved, in the be-
ginning of the last century, as to furnish tna, coffee,
and dinner equipages. Before the middle of the
century, these articles were manufactured in great
Pope again proved serviceable to his frieiul, by recommending
him to conduct the education of the eldest son of Lady Trum-
bal, at whose seat he died, July l3, 1730. He wrole the lite
of Milton, the Tragedy of Mariaraue, and some poems.
quantity,
STAFFORDSHIRE.
quantity, as well for exportation, as home consump-
tion. The salt-glaze, however, is ins it own nature
so imperfect, and the potters, from an injudicious
competition for cheapness rather than for excellence,
had been so inattentive to elegance of forms, and
neatness of workmanship, that this ware began to
be rejected from genteel tables, and supplanted by
a white ware of finer forms, and more beautiful glaze,
which, about the year 1700, was imported in consi-
derable quantities from France. — In the yearJ7B3,
however, Mr. Josiah Wedgwood, who had already
introduced several improvements into this art, as
well with respect to the forms and colours of the
wares, as the composition of which they were made,
invented a sort of earthenware for the table, of a
firm and durable body, covered with a rich and
brilliant glaze, and bearing sudden vicissitudes of
cold and heat, without injury. With the additional
advantages of being manufactured with ease and
expedition, it was sold cheap, and it came quickly I
into general estimation. The Queen was pleased to J
give to it her name and patronage, commanding it
to be called Queen's Ware, and honouring the in-
ventor by appointing him her majesty's potter. It
is composed of the whitest clays from Derbyshire,
Dorsetshire, &c. mixed with a due proportion of
ground flint. The pieces are fired twice, and the
glaze applied after the first firing, in the same raan-
* The principal are; 1. A terra Cotta; resembling por-
phyry, granite, Egyptian pebble, and other beautiful stones
of the siliceous or crystalline order. 2. Basaltes, or black ware ;
a black porcelain biscuit of nearly the same properties with the
natural stone ; striking fire with steel, receiving a high polish,
serving as a touchstone for metals ; resisting all the acids, and
bearing, without injury, a strong fire, stronger indeed, than the
basalles itself. 3. White Porcelain Biscuit, of a smooth wax-
like surface, of the same properties with the preceeding, ex-
cept in what depends upon colour. 4. Jasper : a white porce-
lain biscuit of exquisite beauty and delicacy, possessing the
general properties of the basaltes, together with the singular
one of receiving through its whole substance, from the admix-
ture of metallic calces with the other materials, the same colours
which those calces communicate to glass or enamels in fusion,
a property which no other porcelain or earthen-ware body, of
ancient or modern composition, has been found to possess.
This renders it peculiarly fit for making cameoes, portraits, mid
all subjects in basso relievo, as the ground may be of any par-
ticular colour, while the raised figures are of pure white. 5.
Bamboo, or cane-coloured biscuit porcelain. This possesses
the sa:ne properties as the while porcelain biscuit, mentioned
above. 6. A Porcelain Biscuit, remarkable for great hardness,
little inferior to that of agate. This property, together with
its resistance to the strongest acids and corrosives, and its im-
penetrability by every known liquid, adapts it for mortars, and
many different kinds of chemical vessels.
f The following description of the process used in manufac-
turing the earthenware is interesting: — A piece of prepared
mixture of clay and ground flint, dried and prepared to a pro-
per consislc'nce, is taken to be formed into any required shape
and fashion, by a man who sits over a machine called a wheel,
on the going round of which he continues forming the ware.
This branch is called " throwing" ; and, as w;iU-r is required
to prevent the clay sticking to the hand, it is necessary to place
it for a short time in a warm situation. It then undergoes the
operation of being turned, and is made much smoother than it
was before, by a person called a turner ; when it is ready for
ner as porcelain. The glaze is a vitreous compost'
tion, of flint and other white earthy bodies, with
additions of white lead for the flux, analagous <tr
common flint glass ; so that, when prepared in per-
fection, the ware may be considered as coated with
real flint glass. This compound being mixed with
water, to a proper consistence, the pieces, after the
' first firing, are separately dipt in it ; being some-
i what bibulous, they drink in a quantity of the mere
j water, and the glaze, which was united with that
portion of the water, remains adherent, uniformly
all over their surface, so as to become, by the second
firing, a coat of perfect glass. — To Mr. Wedgwood's
experiments, we are indebted for the invention of
several other species of earthen-ware and porcelain,
adapted to various purposes of ornament and use.*
These, with the Queen's ware, expanded by the in-
dustry and ingenuity of the different manufacturers,
into an infinity of forms for ornament and use,
variously painted and embellished, constitute nearly
the whole of the present fine English earthen-wares
and porcelain, which are the source of a very ex-
tensive trade, and which, considered as objects of
national art, industry, and commerce, may be ranked
among the most important manufactures of the
united kingdom. t — The evidence given by Mr.
Wedgwood to the committee of privy council, and
at the bar of the two Houses of Parliament, when
the handle and spout to be joined to it, by the branch called
" handling." Dishes, plates, tureens, and many other articles,
are made from moulds of ground plaister ; and, when finished,
the whole are placed carefully (being then in a very brittle state)
in " saggars," which, in shape and form, resemble a band-box,
without its cover, but much thicker, and are made from marie
OF clay. The larger ovens, or kilns, are placed full of saggars
so filled with ware; and after afire, which consumes troin
twelve to fifteen tons of coal, when the oven is become cool
again, the saggars are taken out, and their contents removed,
often exceeding 30,000 various pieces. In this state the ware
is called " biscuit," and the body of it has much the appearance
of a new tobacco-pipe, not having the least gloss upon it. It n
then immersed or dipped into a fluid generally consisting of
sixty pounds of white lead, ten pounds of ground flint, and
twenty pounds of stone from Cornwall, burned and ground,
all mixed together, and as much water put to it as reduces it to
the thickness of cream, which it resembles. Each piece nf
ware being separately immersed or dipped into this fluid, sn
much of it adheres all over the piece, that when put into other
saggars, and exposed to another operation of fire, performed
in the glossing-kiln or oven, the ware becomes finished by ac-
quiring its glossy covering, which is given it by the vitrification
of the above ingredients. Enamelled ware undergoes a third
fire after its being painted, to bind the colour on. — A single
piece of ware, such as a common enamelled tea-pot, a mug,
jug, &c. passes through at least fourteen different hands, before
it is finished : viz. The slip-maker, who makes the clay ; the
temperer, or beater of the clay ; the thrower, who forms the
ware ; the ball maker and carrier ; the attender upon the drying
of it ; the turner, who does away Us roughness ; the spout-
maker; the handler, who puts to the handle and spout ; the
first, or biscuit fireman; the person who immerses or dips it into
the lead lluid ; the second, or glass fireman ; the dresser, or
sorter in the, warehouse ; the enameller, or painter ; the inufHe,
or enamel fireman. Several more are required to the comple-
tion of such pieces of ware, but are in inferior rapacities, such
as turners of the wheel, turners of the lathe, &c. &c.
m com-
256
STAFFORDSHIRE.
a commercial arrangement with Ireland was in agi-
tation in 1785, will give some idea of the extent of
tins manufacture, and of its ?alue to our maritime
and landed, as well as commercial, interests* ; and
the evidence of the present Mr. Wedgwood, to the
committee of tha House of Commons, on the cele-
brated Orders in Couneil, passed a few years ago,
shews the ruinous effects which any restrictions on
the American trade has upon this manufacture^
SEISDON.] — The hundred of Seisdon, which
cpmprehends the southern district of the county,
contains the following parishes: — Amblecott and
Brierly-llill, Areley Over, Bilston, Broome, Bob-
bington, Bushbury, Codshall, Clent, Enville, I liui-
ley, Kinfare, Kingswinford, Pattingham, Patteshall,
Penn, Sedgeley, Tattenhall, Tryshull, Wolverhamp-
ton, Wembourne ; iu all twenty.
Bilston, three miles W. N. W. from Wednesbury,
is one of the most extensive villages iu the county,
containing upwards of 1000 houses. Its manufac-
tures are considerable, consisting chiefly of japanned
and enameled goods. Furnaces for smelting iron
ore, forges, and stilling mills, worked by steam,
are frequent in the neighbourhood, which abounds
with mines of coal and iron stone.
At Bradley, a hamlet adjoining to Bilstou, a fire
has been burning in a coal-mine for half a century,
having defeated every attempt to extinguish it. It
has already reduced an area of six acres to a mere
calx, among which are found large beds of alum
and sulphur.
Bushbury, anciently Biscopesburie, is pleasantly
situated N.E. from Wolverhampton, at the foot of a
* Mr. Wedgwood was of opinion, that through the manu-
facturing part alone in the potteries and their vicinity, they
gave bread to fifteen or twenty thousand people, including the
wives and children of those who were employed in it ; yet that
this was a small object, when compared with the many others
which depend on it: namely, 1. The immense quantity of
inland carriage it creates throughout the kingdom, both for its
raw materials, and its finished poods: 2. The great number of
people employed in the extensive collieries lor its use : 3. The
still greater number employed in raising and preparing its raw
materials, in several distant parts of England, from near the
Land's End in Cornwall one way, along different parts of the
coast, lo I'almouth, Teignmouth, Exeter, Pool, Gravesend,
and the Norfolk coast ; the other way, to Biddeford, Wales,
and the Irish coast: 4. The coasting vessels, which, after being
employed at the proper season in the Newfoundland fishery,
carry these materials coast-wise to Liverpool and Hull, to the
amount of more than 20,000 tuns yearly, at times when thev
would otherwise be laid up idle in harbour: 5. The fin the'r
conveyance of them from those ports, by river and canal navi-
gation, to the potteries situated at one of the most inland parts
of this kingdom : and, 6. The re-conveyance of the finished
goods to the different parts of this island, where they are shipped
for every foreign market, that is open to the earthen-wares of
England. — Mr. Wedgwood further observed, that this manu-
facture was attended with some advantageous circumstances,
almost peculiar to itself; viz. that the value of manufactured
goods consisted almost wholly in labour, that one ton of raw
materials produced several ton; of finished goods for shipping,
tlie freight being then charged, not by the weight but by the
bulk ; that scarcely a vessel left any of our ports, without more
or. less of these cheap, bulky, and therefore valuable, articles lo
lofty hill, which is covered with a profusion of
yew-trees. The manor was long the property of
the Coughs, ancestors to the celebrated antiquary
of that name. The church, an ancient stono edifice
in the pointed style of architecture, contain.-; the
monuments of Hugh Bushbury, in which was found
about sixty years since, a stone coffin, with an entire
skeleton, and a chalice now used for the communion
service. — Near this village is a tumulus.
Clent is situated in a detached portion of Staf-
fordshire, surrounded by Worcestershire and Shrop-
shire. The church is ancient, and adorned with an
elegant Gothic tower. Kenelm, King of Mercia,
was murdered here, about the year 820, by order of
his elder sister, Quendrida.
The church o£ Codsall, remarkable for its beauty,
contains a noble altar monument of Walter Wrottes-
ley whose recumbent figure it supports. The roof
of this church is of wood, carved in a curious and
elegant manner. — A sulphureous well in this parish
issues through the stump of a tree. Cadsall is in
the north-west corner of the hundred.
At Enville, north of Kinver, is a mansion of the
Earl of Stamford, which, though partly of modern
erection, yet retains much of the air of antiquity.
It consists of a centre, and two wings, the former
receding, and adorned, at each end, with an octa-
gonal tower. The late additions to the edifice are
concealed. The delightful scenery which surrounds
the house was designed by Shenstone, to whom a
small chapel in a shady grove, is dedicated. Several
ornamented buildings, tastefully disposed, add to
the beauty of the demesne. The east windows of
this maritime country, and, above all, that not less than five
parts in six, of the whole produce of the potteries, were ex-
ported to foreign markets.
f Mr. Wedgwood was born near Bradley, the eastern extre-
mity of the potteries. By the united efforts of himself, and his
partnsr, Mr. Bentley, the pottery art has been carried to a
greater degree of excellence both as lo utility and ornament,
than any works of the kind, either ancient or modern, ever
experienced. Mr. Wedgwood's communications to the Royal
Society, of which he was a fellow, shew a mind enlightened by
science, and contributed to procure him the esteem of scientific
men at home, and throughout Europe. His invention of a
thermometer, for measuring the higher degrees of heat em-
ployed in the various arts, is of tl.e utmost importance to their
promotion. — Mr. Wedgwood was the younger son of a potter,
but derived little or no property from his father, whose posses-
sions consisted chiefly of a small entailed estate, which descend-
ed to the eldest son.— At au early period of his life, seeing the
I impossibility of extending considerably the manufacture he was
! engaged in, without the advantages "of inland navigation, he
j was the proposer of the GrandTnink canal, and the chief agent
i in obtaining the act of parliament for making it, against the
prejudices of the landed interest. Having acquired a large
fortune, his purse was always open to the calls of charity, and
j to the support of every institution for the public good. To
his relations, friends, and neighbours, he was endeared by
j many private virtues; and his country vvilJ long remember him,
j as the steady patron of every valuable interest of society. He
! died at his beautiful villa, Etruria, aged sixty-four. The busi-
j ness of the pottery has since been carried on by his son, the
present Joskin Wedgwood, Esq.
the
STAFFORDSHIRE.
the church of Enville, is embellished with some
remains of stained glass ; and the chancel contains
an alabaster monument, supporting two figures, of
a knight, in armour, and a female in the costume
of her age, with a small dog at her feet. Near this,
is a very ancient tomb, which supports the figure of
a priest.
Kinver, a pleasant village on the west bank of
the Stour, was formerly a market town. The church
contains some painted glass, and a few tnonuments
deserving of notice. One, of fine speckled marble,
bears the figure of a knight, in brass, with those of
his two wives, and seventeen children. There is
still a market-house, in which is deposited some old
armour. An ancient camp, of an oblong form ;
southward from the village, incloses an area of more
than four acres, near which is a tumulus and a large
stone frustum of a square pyramid, two yards in
height, Cardinal Pole, whose history is sufficiently
known, was born at Stourton castle, in this parish.
King's Swinford, near the boundary of Worces-
tershire, derived the former part of its name from
having been the property of the Conqueror, at the
• period of the Norman Survey. The church is re-
markable for nothing but its antiquity. A curious
mansion, formerly the manor-house, stands in the
middle of the village. — • Bradley Hall, a curious
half-timbered mansion, in this village, has been
occasionally used as a Catholic chapel.
The village of Over Arley, situated near the north
bank of the Severn, appears to have been at one time
a very considerable place. Some painted glass
decorated the windows of the church, which was
erected in the reign of Henry the First. Between
two pillars appears the monumental effigies of a
knight in complete armour. A square camp, in
Arley wood, enclosed on three sides by a double,
and on the fourth by a treble ditch, is supposed to
be the work of Ostorius Scapula.
Prestwood (south from King's Swinton) the seat
of Sir John Littleton, stands on the site of one more
ancient. In the neighbourhood are several elegant
villas of capitalists in the glass trade, attracted
hither, by the peculiar excellence of a stratum of
clay, used in making their pots. On Ashwood
heath are the remains of a Roman encampment,
surrounded by a single ditch. A small chapel on
Brierly hill was built by subscription.
Tatenhill, a small village, situated on the steep
side of a considerable eminence, two miles north from
Wolverhampton, had a college before the Conquest ;
of which the present church is a part. Its name is
a corruption of Theotenhall q. d. the hall of nations.
The eastern window of the church contains a paint-
ing on glass of the Archangel and the Dragon. The
font is octagonal and beautifully sculptured.
Some extensive remains of antiquity, at Wrot-
tesley, a hamlet of Tatenhill, are supposed to be
the ruins of a city. Plot says they are " the true
remains of the Theoten-hall of the Danes," whilst
Salmon maintains that it is the site of the Roman |
VOL. iv. — NO. 159. I
Uriconium, an opinion supported by Gough. A
peculiar species of pear grows in this parish, of a
fine flavour, but subject to early decay after ripe-
ness.
Wolverhampton, 16 miles S. from Stafford, and
130f N.W. from London, is the most extensive
and populous town in Staffordshire. We learn
nothing of its history till the 10th century, when
Wulfrana built and endowed a monastery, at Hamp-
ton, as it was then called, which, assuming the name
of its benefactress, was gradually modified into
Wolverhampton. The town is healthy, notwith-
standing its proximity to coal-mines. The trade
which it carries on in locks, keys, &c. as well as
the ingenuity and skill displayed in the production
of these articles, exceeds belief. The church con-
tains a stone-pulpit, adorned with curious and beau-
tiful sculpture, and the figure of a lion executed in
a superior style. The tower, which is Gothic and
richly ornamented, rises from the centre. An ala-
baster monument in one of the chancels, supports
the figures of John Leveson and his wife, to whose
memory it was erected. The great chancel contains
a brazen statue of Admiral Sir Richard Leveson,
who commanded under Sir Francis Drake. Several
other monuments and embellishments are both curi-
ous and beautiful. A round column in the church-
yard, twenty feet high, is adorned from the base to
the capital, with various grotesque carvings of birds,
beasts, and foliage. Although the site of Wulfrana's
monastery is not ascertained ; it is probable that a
large vaulted apartment, thirty feet square, which
stands at the corner of the cemetery, is a part of it.
The walls of this work, which seems to have been
the basement story of a large building, are three
yards thick. There is only one other church in
Wolverhampton, although the town contains a popu-
lation of about 15,000 persons. The deficiency of
accommodation for the due performance of religious
rites, is supplied by numerous chapels for dissenters.
Some curious customs prevailed here till the begin-
ning of the last century, of which one was called
" processioning." After prayers on Monday and
Tuesday in Rogation -week, the sacristan, resident
prebendaries, and members of the choir, with the
children of the charity-schools, each carrying a long
pole decked with flowers, proceeded through the
streets. Another practice was that of certain officers
parading through the fair, dressed in antique armour,
and preceded by a band of musicians. — Here is an
excellent free-school, founded and endowed by Sir
Stephen Jennings, a native of Wolverhampton, and
lord mayor of London, in 1668. Here are also two
charity-schools, for fifty boys and forty girls. An
hospital, for a priest and six poor women, was erected
here at the close of the 14th century. — A notion has
been entertained, erroneously we believe, that it was
a custom, in Wolverhampton, for women to be taken
on leases. The defendant, in a case of seduction,
a few years ago, attempted to prove, that the father
of the girl wbotn he had seduced, had offered his
8 T daughter
258
STAFFORDSHIRE.
daughter to him on lease ; but be failed in his
attempt.
The church of Pettingham, 5| miles west from
Wolverhampton, contains several monuments -, and,
in (lie church-yard, is an old cross, in good preser-
vation. In 1700, a valuable instrument of gold,
similar to some found in Ireland, was discovered in
this parish. It was four feet long, twisted towards
the middle, and so elastic, that it could be bent round
the body. Besides this curiosity, which weighed,
three pounds two ounces, and was valued at 150/. a
piece of gold, resembling a pig of lead, was dicover-
ed in 1780, by a boy ploughing in a field near the
village.
The mansion of Lord Pigot, at Pattishul, north
of Pattingham, is a magnificent building. The
church, a modern edifice in the Grecian style of
architecture, is adorned with a handsome turret,
and contains some fine monuments ; principally of
the Astleys, who were long owners of the manor.
The entrance to this building is through a portico,
supported by four handsome pillars.
The iron-works of Sedgeley and its neighbour-
hood, in the centre of the hundred, are supposed
to give employment to nearly two thousand men
and boys. The parish also produces abundance of
coal.
Near Seisdon (5£ miles from Wolverhampton)
the village which gives name to the hundred, is
an ancient British fortification, called Abbot's, or
Apeswood Castle, which seems to have been a
bastion of a large camp, extending from this place
to Clasphill.
STAFFORD.] — The county and borough town of
Stafford is situated on the north bank of the Sow,
three miles from its junction with the Trent, and at
the distance of 140 miles N.W. by N. from London.
The spot, or island on which it stands, was anciently
called Betheney, and was long the retreat of Ber-
thclin, a distinguished hermit, son, as it is said, of
one oi' the kings of the country. The first authentic
mention, however, of Stafford, as a town, is in 913,
when Ethclfleda, countess of Mercia, the sister of
Edward the elder, built a castle here. It was then,
probably, a thriving place, and the chief town of the
district. Of the castle which Ethelfleda built no
vestiges remain ; nor is its precise site certain.
Edward the elder is said to have built a tower here,
on the north bank of the river, about a year after
the erection of that which his sister founded. This,
Pennant conjectures to have stood on the mount
called by Speed Castle-hill, and now Bully-hill.
A church near it is named Castle church, perhaps
from being raised on the site of one more ancient,
attached to the castle. — Subsequently to the Con-
quest, as appears from Domesday, " the king had
iu this town eighteen burgesses in demesne, and
twenty mansions of the honour of the earls. It paid
for all customs 9/. ' libras denariorum' iu money."
William built a castle here, the custody of which
was given to Robert de Tonei, younger son of
Roger, standard-bearer of Normandy. Robert de
Tonei, in consequence, took the name of Stafford,
which continued through his descendants for many
centuries. The castle, built by the Conqueror, does
not seem to have stood lohg ; but it was restored by
Ralph de Stafford, in the reign of Henry the Third,
and continued to flourish till the seventeenth cen-
tury. During the civil wars of Charles, this castle
was garrisoned for the royal cause, but it was taken
by the parliamentary forces under Sir William
Brereton, in 1614, and soon after demolished.
Stafford, in the Domesday-book, is termed a city :
it was then governed by two bailiffs ; but the first
charter of incorporation now extant, was not granted
till the reign of King John, although it is evident
that it was a corporate place long before that period.
It is thought to have been a borough in the time of
the heptarchy ; or it might have been originally a
Roman municipal town, or even a British qity. Its
situation accords nearly with the general descrip-
tion given, by Caesar, of British towns, which are
represented as being placed on gentle eminences,
barricadoed with trees, and generally surrounded
with morasses and ditches, in the vicinity of exten-
sive pasturages. A pasturage of many hundred
acres was annexed to the town of Stafford from
the earliest times.— The charter by king John was
confirmed by Edward the Sixth, and many new
privileges added. Elizabeth established the assizes
and sessions here, in the first year of her reign.
The situation of Stafford, though low, is ex-
tremely pleasant. The streets are well paved, and
the houses principally built of stone in a regular
and compact manner. Anciently it was defended,
except on the side towards the Sow, by a wall and
ditch supplied with water from that river. It was
never, however, capable of making a defence against
a besieging army. Sir William Brereton took it
by surprize in May, 1643, with the loss of only a-
single man. These walls were wholly demolished
at this period, and the ditch filled up, so that no
remains of either can be discovered. — The form of
Stafford is that of an irregular ellipsis, the greatest
diameter of which extends from south-east to north-
west. Formerly the grounds adjoining the walls
on the outside appear to have been marshy, or at-
least could easily be laid under water, so as to sur-
round the town. It is said, that Stafford had anci-
ently four gates ; but only three can be traced. That
formerly near the bridge over the Sow, called Green
Gate, and constituting the entrance to the town, on-
the road from London, was taken down in 1780.
The arch of the east-gate was standing within these
few years. The gaol-gate on the north road was in
ruins so early as 1680 ; subsequently to which, it
seems to have been rebuilt and established, as a house-
of correction or prison, for the boraugh : one side of
the building is still standing, and the other is occu-
pied by the free-school.
This borough is governed by a mayor, recorder*
ten aldermen, twenty comuion-council-inen, a. town
clerk,
STAFFORDSHIRE.
2,59
clerk, and two Serjeants at mace. The right of
election is vested in the mayor and burgesses. Sons
of burgesses, and persons who have served an ap-
prenticeship of seven years within the borough, are
entitled to admission as burgesses, whenever they
think proper to claim the privilege.
The County Hall, near the centre of the town, a
spacious and neat modern edifice, erected about 30
years ago, measures one hundred feet in front, and
contains a number of elegant apartments. The
assembly room, extending nearly the whole length
of the front, leads to the court rooms, which are
placed on each side. At the back of this structure
is an elegant and convenient market-place. — The
County Infirmary, in the Foregate, is a plain re-
spectable building, finished in 1772, and supported
by voluntary contributions and benefactions. — The
County Gaol, opposite to this hospital, is an exten-
sive edifice of modern erection. It contains about
one hundred and fifty separate cells or apartments ;
and its regulations and internal economy are excel-
lent.— The Free School appears to have been founded
by Edward the Sixth, in 1550. — The Alms-houses
of Stafford, built or purchased at different times,
are for a certain number of aged and necessitous
poor inhabitants.
Stafford, though it comprises only one parish,
lias two churches ; one dedicated to St. Mary, and
the other to St. Chad. The former, a large cruci-
form building, consists of a nave, two side aisles,
a transept, and a chancel of three aisles. The
transept is one hundred feet in length, and about
twenty-five in breadth. In the centre of the transept
rises the tower, which is of an octagon shape, and
thirty-three feet square at the base. The style of
architecture in general is the early pointed. Tl»e
altar-piece, of the Corinthian order, is painted in
imitation of marble. The organ is considered to
be one of the finest in the kingdom. — North-west
of the tower was formerly a chantry, or chapel,
separated by oak screen work, but removed about
thirty years ago. In the nave is a seat for the
three town magistrates, in the arabesque style. It
was fixed up about the year 1708, and was the gift
of a person named Bromley, a native of Stafford.
The font, a singular piece of antiquity, is very large,
and of clumsy construction. The bottom is a square,
of two feet diameter, ornamented with figures of men
or baboons, on three sides, all lying flat on their
bellies. On the fourth side is the figure of a ram.
Above tills square are figures of four lions, which
form this part of the font into an octagon shape.
Each of these lions supports an upright figure,
between which are four semi-globes. The whole
is surmounted by projecting mouldings and facia
measuring three feet six inches across. The height
of the font is three fvet three inches, and the inte-
rior or cavity is sufficiently large for the immersion
of infants. —Numerous ancient and modern monu-
ments occupy different portions of this church. The
most conspicuous among these, is an altar-tomb, in
j honour of Lady Ann Aston, and her husband Lord
i Edward, of Tixal. It appears to have been raised
during the life of his lordship, over the body of his
wife. The figure of the lady only was then placed
upon it ; that of his lordship having been added since.
This tomb, formerly surrounded by Gothic screen
work, is now inclosed by an iron railing, the space
| within which is appropriated as the burying place
of the Cliffords of Tixal. — The monument of Sir
Edward Aston, and his Lady Joan, presents their
; figures in alabaster, under a large canopy. Sir
Edward, who constructed the curious- mansion of
Tixal, is said to have been a distinguished knight
in the reign of Henry the Eighth. — Against one of
the pillars in the chancel, stands a handsome antique
monument to the memory of Lady Barbara C romp-
ton.
St. Mary's Church, in times of Popery, was col~
legiate. King Stephen bestowed it on the bishop
and chapter of Lichfield and Coventry. It is now
in the gift of the king.
St. Chad's church is very old. Its architecture
is an imitation of the most ancient Saxon plan, which
assigned one half of the whole dimensions to the
nave, one quarter to the tower, and the remainder to
the chancel. About 80 or 90 years ago, it was cased
with brick. The tower is in the latest pointed style,
and a handsome object, but its ornamental parts are
rapidly going to decay.
Here are meetings of Quakers, Independents-,
Presbyterian*, ami Methodists ; of which sects the
two last are the most numerous.
Previously to the Dissolution, Stafford contained
various monastic institutions. At the north end of
the walls stood a house of Franciscan or Grey
Friars. Here was also a Priory of Black Canons,
pleasantly situated close to the river Sow, about two
miles to the east of Stafford. The area of this
monastery, of which there are some slight remains,
seems to have extended over several acres, inclosed
by a stone wall of considerable strength. — Ralph
Lord Stafford bestowed a portion of ground on the
green at the southern extremity of the town, on the
Friars Austins, upon which they founded a religious
establishment, about the year 1314, for the sake of
his soul and those of his two wives (Katharine and
Margaret) Sir Humphrey Hastings, knight, and
that of Edward the Third The manufacture of
hoots, shoes, and cutlery, with a considerable busi-
ness in tanning, both for home consumption and for
exportation, ^are carried on here. The ancient cus-
tom of borough English prevails in this town, by
which the youngest son succeeds to property, as
heir at law, in preference to the elder children. —
The remains of the castle of the barons of Stafford'
are about a mile and a half to the south-west of the
town, on the summit of a singular hill, the ascent
of which on all sides is extremely smooth and gra-
dual.—South from the castle stood the manor-house,,
the usual residence of the noble family of Stafford.
It was fortified by Ralph de Stafford in. the reign.
of.
2(50
STAFFORDSHIRE.
of Edward tlie third, who had granted him per-
mission to make castles of all his manor-houses both
here and at Madeley. The area of this ancient seat
is still easily discovered, by the moat which sur-
rounds it remaining unfilled up. — Edmund Stafford,
chancellor of England in the feign of one of the
Henries ; Thomas Asheburn, a vigorous and active
opponent of Wickliff; and Thomas Fitzherbert, a
learned and ingenious writer of the seventeenth
century, were natives of this town.
The area of the fortification or encampment of
Billington or Bilinton Bury, on a high hill about
three miles to the west of Stafford, includes several
acres. It is circular, surrounded on some parts
with one, and on others by two deep ditches. Hence
is an extensive and beautiful prospect. Pennant
considers this fortification as having been originally
a British post, subsequently occupied by the Saxons.
TOTMANSLOW.] — The hundred of Totraanslow,
comprising the north-western division of the county,
contains the following parishes : — Alstonefield,
Alveton, Bagnal, Blore, Bradey - in - the - Moors,
Bramshall, Butterton, Caldon, Caverswall, Caul-
ton, Cheadle, Checkley, Cheddleton, Croxden, Dil-
holine, Draycots-in-the-Moors, Elkstone, Ellaston,
Eudon, Flash, Gratwick, Grindon, Horton, Ham,
Ipstones, Kingsley, Kingstone, Leek, Leigh, Long-
nor, Mathfield, Oakover, Onecote, Meerbrook, Ro-
cester, Sheen, Waistow, Watton, Waterfall, and
Uttoxeter.
In the parish of Alstonefield, 8| miles E. from
Leeke, rises the beautiful and fertilizing Dove ; and
between that place and Alveton was formerly a strong
fortress, called Boneburg, the trenches of which
inclosed an area of almost one hundred acres. It
was nearly inaccessible, and was supposed to have
been formed by Ceolred, King of Mercia, when in-
vaded by Ina, the powerful Monarch of the West
Saxons. No remains of it are now distinguishable.
At Alveton, or Alton, are the ruins of a castle,
destroyed by Cromwell, and now the property of
the Earl of Shrewsbury : The ground on which they
stand is a steep rock, near the river Churnet. They
consist of the outer walls, which are of a prodigious
thickness, and give proof of its strength and mag-
nificence, when entire.
The village of Blore, nine miles N. E. by E. from
Cheadle, was long the residence of the illustrious
family of the Bassets ; the site of whose mansion is
now occupied by a modern farm-house. The church,
which is small, and mean in its external appearance,
contains some remains of former embellishments.
The object most worthy of attention is a noble altar-
tomb of statuary marble, on which repose three
figures, two of them knights completely armed, the
third a female, in the costume of her time. Two
other female figures, one apparently young, the
other middle-aged, kneel near them habited inflow-
ing robes, pointed handkerchiefs, and girdles.
Careswell, or Caverswall church, 3| miles W.
by S. from Gheadle, contains a monument to tlie
memory of William de Careswell, founder of a cas-
tle at that place. This castle has been long since
demolished, having been first suffered to decay by
a person who rented the demesne on advantageous
terms, lest the owner should ever return and inhabit
it. On the tomb of William de Careswell, is a Latin
distich, to the following effect : —
" I built this Castle, with its rampiers round,
" For the use of th' living, who am under ground."
The following lines are said to have been subse
quently written on this tomb : —
" William of Careswell, here lye I,
" That built this castle, and pooles hereby.
" William of Careswell here thou mayest lye;
" But thy castle is down, and thy pooles are dry."
In the autumn of the year 1818, Earl St. Vincent
erected a monument in Caverswall church, to the
memory of his late countess. This elegant specimen
of modern sculpture, from the chisel of Chantry,
is inferior to the cenotaph at Lichfield, only for want
of the same interest of circumstance ; in beauty of
execution it cannot be surpassed. The design is a
female figure, in the attitude of prayer ; the drapery
is so disposed, as to represent a veil, forming
straight folds on the forehead, and flowing over the
shoulders with a flexibility and airiness which asto-
nishes the beholder ; it appears as if settling again
after a recent motion of the body it encloses. The
whole person is delicately and beautifully traced
through its light habiliments ; but the arms, which
are exposed and crossed on the breast, defy descrip-
tion.— The figure kneels on a square base, on which
is the following
INSCRIPTION :
" Sacred to the memory of Martha, Countess of
St. Vincent, who was eminently pious, virtuous,
and charitable ; she departed this life on the 8th
day of February, 1816, aged 75 years; and
was, at her own desire, buried in the tomb of
her parents. This monument was erected by
her surviving husband,"
Cheadle, 14 miles N. N. E. from Stafford, and
145| N. W. by N. from London, pleasantly situated
in a valley formed by bleak and barren hills, pos-
sesses no remains of antiquity, nor is otherwise re-
markable either in its history or present condition.
The country around has been hitherto totally value-
less for purposes of agriculture ; and it is supposed,
that, except Scotch firs, the gravelly soil of which
it is composed is incapable of producing any thing
worthy of cultivation, Experiments have, however,
been made upon similar situations in the neighbour-
hood, which have succeeded ; as, above Oak Moor,
where there are thriving plantations of Scotch fir,
spruce, oak, lime, birch, and mountain ash, on a
declivity, rocky and almost destitute of soil. The
waste lands, between Cheadle and Oak-moor, consist
of
STAFFORDSHIRE.
201
of an immense number of rude heaps of gravel upon
a stratum of sandy rock. The lime-stone country
lies northward from Oakmoor, and, in many places,
as in the Weaver-hills, rises into huge cliffs. Large
quantities of it are burned for manure on Stoutmoor,
to the eastward, where it is also generally used in
the construction of fences. The trade of Chcadle
consists in its copper, brass, and tin works.
The church-yard of Checkley, (4£ miles E. from
Uttoxeter) contains three pyramidal stones, which,
says a tradition current among the inhabitants, re-
present three bishops, who fell in an engagement
between the English and Danes. They are rude
and unmeaning, affording no guide for conjecture
respecting their origin.
At Croxden, 4| miles N.N. W. from Uttoxeter,
are the remains of an abbey of Cistercian monks,
in which was deposited the heart of King John.
These ruins are situated in a narrow valley, watered
by a small rivulet, and consist of the west end of
the church, the south wall of the transept, part of
the cloister, the outer walls of the chapter-house,
and some parts of the offices ; the whole in a style
of architecture corresponding with the date of its
foundation, in the 12th century. In the garden of
a farm-house, a stone cross is preserved, about
three feet long, pointed with foliage, and rudely
sculptured, on one side with a crucifix, on the other
with a Virgin, now scarcely distinguishable. The
parish church is built in the same style of architec-
ture as the abbey, and seems to be co-eval with it.
Between the two hamlets of Upper and Lower
Tean, in this parish, is a spring of a singular de-
scription, said to throw up small bones of spar-
rows, &c.
Dillorn, 2 1 miles west from Cheadle,withKingsIey,
Morredge, and Ipstones, which were, like Cheadle,
barren and dreary wastes, a few years since, are
now enclosed and cultivated ; and under the judici-
ous management of their principal proprietor, John
Holliday, Esq. present an appearance of fertility,
•which they were long thought incapable of assuming.
Dillorn-wood forms a chain, three or four miles in
length. Dillorn-heath produces large crops of
potatoes, which supply the potteries in the neigh-
bourhood.
The church-yard of Draycott-in-the-Moors, con-
tains one of those pyramidal stones erected by the
Danes as monuments of their departed heroes.
Ham, 9| miles N. E. by E. from Cheadle, is a
place of no importance, but the scenery by which it
is surrounded is the most picturesque in nature.
The lofty precipices in which it is embosomed, are
feathered with wood to the top. Here, the two sub-
terraneous rivers, Hamps and Manifold, emerging,
* He studied under the direction of his father, and grew so
eminent in his knowledge of the law, that he was appointed
one of the council to Queen Anne, and her Serjeant. He
afterwards became lord chief justice of the court of King's
Bench, and on the accession of George the First, he was
created a baron, by the style and title of Lord Parker, Baron
VOL. IV. — NO. 160.
form two cascades, and flow on (o meet the Dove,
which they equal in size. Some supposed petrifac-
tions of fish are here shewn, which indeed resemble
in some degree the carp and barbel, of which they
are thought to be the exact prototypes. They ire
chiefly projections from the lime-stone rocks, from
which some of them have been detached, and are
deposited in a cave for a minute inspection. Ham
parish was once famous for the tomb, well, and ash
of St. Bertram, now almost forgotten by the inha-
bitants. In a grotto near this place Congreve wrote
his first comedy, the Old Bachelor.
The town of Leek, 22 miles N. by E. from Staf-
ford, and 118| N. W. by N. from London, has, of
late years, considerably increased in population and
trade. The principal manufactures are of buttons,
and works in silk and mohair, which are carried on
very extensively. Nearly one half of the inhabitants
of the town, and a considerable number of persons
from the circumjacent country, are thus employed.
This circumstance is, however, a great check to 'the
increase of population ; in no town of the united
kingdom are there more lame, deformed, and pre-
maturely infirm persons, than at Leek and Mac-
clesfield, where the practice exists to an appalling
extent, of introducing very young children into the
silk-mills. — The church of Leek, remarkable neither
for the beauty of its architecture nor for its antiquity,
has a square tower, with a peal of six bells. In
the church-yard stand the remains of a pyramidal
cross, ten feet high, adorned with imagery and
fret-work. The methodists, who are numerous here,
have a handsome and commodious meeting-house.
Eight alms-houses were endowed in 1696, by Eli-
zabeth Ash, a benevolent lady of the parish, for as
many poor widows, who receive a weekly allowance.
An unusual appearance is witnessed by theinhabitants
of this town, at a certain season of the year. After
the sun has set behind a mountain, at some distance,
it again becomes visible as it approaches tlrj horizon,
and presents the uncommon spectacle of a second
setting. Ancient British and Human arms have
been discovered, at various times, in the neigh-
bourhood of Leek, which seems to have been the
scene of some signal engagement. These demon-
strate the extent of the Roman invasion, and the
resistance made by the aborigines. Leek was the
birth-place of the first Earl of Macclesfield, Tho-
mas Parker, who was the son of an attorney.*
At a small distance northward from Leek, was
an abbey called Delacres, built by Ranulph, Earl of
Chester, the site of which is now occupied by a
convent of French nuns.
The small market-town of Longnor, 10| miles
N. E. from Leeke, and 162 N.N.VV. from London,
of Macclesfield. In 1721, he was advanced to the dignities
of Viscount Parker of Eveline, in Oxfordshire, and Karl of
Macclesfield, a tide of honour, suddenly and severely checked
by his arraignment and conviction at the bar of the House of
Commons, on charges of corruption.
262
STAFFORDSHIRE
U remarkable for the short time alloted for the sale
of commodities in its market, which does not con-
tinue more than two hours. Near this place, was
born Andrew Brorawich, who suffered ranch perse-
cution on the breaking out of the plot, in 1078, for
being a Catholic. ' He was even condemned to die ;
one among many instances of the bigotry of the
Protestant reformers.
The parish of Okeover, 10 miles E.N. E. from
Cheadle, is remarkable for the tumuli of Hallsteds
and Arbourclose. These barrows are supposed by
Dr. Plot to have been formed of earth, and convert-
ed into stone by the agency of subterraneous heat ;
•whilst others conjecture, that they were piles of
stones, which have been concreted by time, a sup-
position apparently more probable. The mansion-
house, erected on the site of an ancient one which
had long been the residence of the Okeover family,
contains some valuable pictures by Raffael, Titian,
Rubens, and other foreign masters. Among these
the Holy Family, by Raffael, is esteemed the most,
being valued at 1500 guineas. It was found among
some old lumber, having been hidden, it is supposed,
during the civil wars.*
In the neighbourhood of Onecote, 4| miles E. by
S. from Leek, is Narrowdale, remarkable for the
high rocks, by which it is surrounded. They often
appear above the clouds, and at some seasons,
totally intercept the sun's rays : at his greatest
altitude, he is not seen in this vale till one o'clock.
At Rocester, four mil; e N. by E. from Uttoxeter,
was formerly an abbey of black canons, founded in
1146, of which 110 remains now exist. The church
* In the neighbourhood of Okeover, was born John Dudley,
Baron of Mai pas, Viscount L'lsle, Earl of Warwick, and
Duke of Northumberland ; who made so important a figure in
the court of Edward the Sixth, and 4'ell a victim to his ambition
after that monarch's death. He first distinguished himself in
France, where he obtained the honour ot knighthood ; he
afterwards attached himself to Wolsey, whom he attended on
his embassy to the French court. He was on good terms with
the cardinal's successor, Cromwell, and enjoyed the good graces
of the king, by whom he was elevated to the peerage, appoint-
ed Lord High Admiral for life, and at his demise, named one
of his sixteen executors. The sequel of his history is too well
known, to need repetition. He was beheaded, August 22,
1553.
(• The distinguished Admiral, Lord Gardner was born here,
April 12, 1742. Having expressed a strong inclination for the
naval service, he was rated a midshipman at 14, on board the
Medway, commanded by Captain Sir Peter Dennis, under
whose orders he continued for two years, and was present at
the taking of the Due d'Aquitaine, a French ship of the line.
He shared in the expedition to Rochefort, and th« engagement
off Belleisle, in 1769. He was soon alter appointed a lieutenant,
and distinguished himself at the taking of Le Courageux. He
was then made master and commander, first of the Raven, and
afterwards of the Preston, the flag-ship of Rear-Admiral Parry,
whom he accompanied to Jamaica. He there married Susan-
nah, the only daughter of Francis Oale, Esq. a rich planter.
During the American war he captured many rich prizes, and
distinguished himself in the engagement with the French fleet,
under the Count d'Estaing, off the island of Granada. In the
glorious victory of the 12th of April, 1782, his ship was the first
*vhidi >broke through the enemy's line of battle ; and at one.
is modern, and situated in the middle of a field, in
which is the tall, slender shaft of a cross.
Uttoxeter, situated on the banks of the Dove, 12|
miles N. E. by E. from Stafford, and 135 J N. W.
by N. from London, is a place of great antiquity,
having a noble stone bridge over the river, connect-
ing the two counties of Stafford and Derby. The
market-place is in the centre of the town, which is
composed of three principal streets. The market
is the best in the county for cattle, sheep, pigs, and
cheese, a distinction for which it is indebted to the
extensive and fertile meadows in the neighbourhood.
The church is ancient, but no wise remarkable.
On the 14th of February, 1914, it received muck
damage from a thunder storm ; the clock was
stopped, by the pendulum being forced from its
situation ; the chimes played a considerable time ;
and the steeple was so much injured, that part
of it was obliged to be taken down. — The dissen-
ters have several meeting houses here. The lofty
site and salubrious air of Uttoxeter are favourable
to longevity. In the neighbourhood are numerous
iron forges. The manor was forfeited by the Earl
of Derby, after the battle of Evesham, and bestowed
by Henry the Third, on his younger son Edmund,
Earl of Lancaster. Here is a free-school, founded
by the celebrated mathematician, Thomas Allen, a
native of this county. t
The ancient manor of Barrisford, or Beresford,
on the banks of the Dove, was the birth-place of
Charles Cotton, the poet, whose father, having dis-
sipated much of his fortune in law suits, left him an
encumbered inheritance.! — Barrisford Hall, now
period of the action, in conjunction with the Formidable and
the Namur, he had to sustain the fire of eleven of the enemy's
ships. After the close of the American war he acted as com-
modore, on the Jamaica station ; and, in 1 790, was appointed
a lord oi the Admiralty, and obtained a seat in parliament. In
1793, he was raised to the rank of Rear-Admiral of the Blue,
and hoisted his flag on board the Queen, of 98 guns. The
following year, he bore a part in the action of the 1st of June,
under the gallant Howe. In consequence of his conspicuous
conduct on this occasion, he was not only particularly thanked
by the commander-in-chief, but appointed major-general of
Marines, and created a baronet of Great Britain. In 1799, he
was sent with sixteen sail of the line, into the Mediterranean,
and the year following created an Irish peer. He died in 1810,
and was buried in the abbey church of Bath,
Simon Degge, the antiquary, was also a native of Ultoxeter.
J He was born in 1630. Having received a finished educa-
tion at Cambridge, and travelled some years on the continent,
he retired to his tamily seat, and married Isabella, daughter of
Sir Thomas Hutchinson. A few years after, he published
various translations, chiefly from the French, and his affairj
becoming embarrassed, he procured a captain's commission,
and proceeded to Ireland, which gave occasion to a burlesque
poem, called "a Voyage to Ireland." His most celebrated
work is entituled " Scarronides, or Virgil Travestie," a mock
poem on the first and fourth books of the jEneid. After the
death of his first wife, he married the dowager Countess of
Ardglas, and soon after became acquainted with Isaac Walton,
with whose ardent passion for angling he professes his sympathy.
Cotton published his "Wonders of the Peak" in 1681, and a
few years after, died in obscurity, some where about West-
minster.
ruinous
STAFFORDSHIRE.
203
ruinous, was amongst the possessions of the ancient
and noble family of Beresford.
Church Mayfield, a village on tho Dove, is re-
markable for two tumuli, of which one is called
Rowlow. Some Roman coins have been discovered
at another, in Dale- close, near this place.
At Wotton-under-Wcever Hill, is a high paved
•way, which Dr. Plot calls a viavidnalis. The cli-
mate of Wotton and other Moorlands districts, is
described by the country people in this distich : —
Wotton under Weever,
Where God came never.
The west wind always brings rain, a circumstance
attributed to the nearness of the Irish channel.
Ecton Hill, near Warslaw, is remarkable for some
fine mines of lead and copper, which have been
wrought with increased productiveness, for two
centuries. About ninety years since, when the works
had been intermitted for sometime, a Cornish miner
suggested the chance of renewing them with success ;
and, in pursuance of his scheme, some adventurers
at Ashbourne obtained a lease of the Duke of De-
vonshire. They expended 13,000/, before any re-
turns were made ; but, after sinking a shaft two
hundred yards deep, they found immense quantities
of ore, which amply repaid their pains and risk.
The annual profits were, in 1789, from 8000/. to
10,000/. The adit, or entrance to this mine, is at
the base of the hill ; through this passage, the ore
is conveyed in four-wheeled carriages, which run
swiftly along in grooves, being set in motion by
boys of about 12 or 14 years of age. The copper
is not found in regular veins, courses, or strata, but
in an uninterrupted mass, like a bell, widening in
the descent. Although the works are already two
hundred yards below the bed of the river, they are
but little retarded by water. The ore being brought
from the mine, is broken into small pieces, and then
. sorted, into what is called the best, second, and
worst. After the operations of beating and washing,
the copper is exposed for sale in the open air, and
ticketed with prices, acccording to its quality. On
the opposite side of the hill, is a lead mine, discover-
ed about ninety years since.
* He was the son of William Anson, third lord of the manor
of Siiugborough. He went to sea early, and in 1724 was
jiiade post captain. Iking sent to South Carolina, he pur-
chased land, and built a town there, called after his name. In
1739, he was chosen commander of an expedition against the
Spanish settlements in South America, and sailed from Ports-
month, September 18, 1/40, with five men of war, a sloop and
two victuallers. He doubled Cape Horn in March, 1741, after
losing two of his ships. In June following, he arrived off
Juan Fernandez, with only two ships and two tenders. This
place he left in September/took some prizes, burnt Paita, and
continued on the American coast, in expectation of falling in
with the annual Acapulco ship, till May 1742; when having
only his own ship, the Centurion of 64 guns, left, he crossed
the southern ocean, for China, where he stayed several months,
and then returned in quest of the galleon, which he fell in with,
and captured after a smart action. Havina; sold his prize in
China, he sailed for England, and arrived at Spithead, June \5,
1744, having sailed, in a fog, through a French fleet then cruia-
Wetton, a village situated among nigged cliffs,
7| miles E. by S. from Leek, is remarkable for a
cave, sacred to Thor. Here the Druids are sup-
posed to have retired to perform their religious rites,
and to have offered human sacrifices in wicker idols ;
a circumstance thus described by Darwin : —
" Here o(t the Naiads, as they chanced to stray,
Near the dread fane of Thor's returning day, "
Saw, from red altars, streams of guiltless blood
( Stain their green reed-beds, and pollute the flood ;
Heard dying babes, in wicker prisons wail,
And shrieks of matrons thrill the affrighted gale ;
While from dark caves infernal echoes mock,
And liends triumphant shout from every rock."
At Rushton Spencer, 5J miles N. N. W. from
Leek, a well, called by the inhabitants St. Helen's, is
remarkable for some accidental properties. It some-
times ceases to flow at the beginning of May, a
time when springs are usually at the highest, and
continues dry till November.
At Field, southward from Leek, a Witch Elm
was felled, in 1680, which was 120 feet long, and
•J") } feet round in the- middle : it afforded 61 loads
of firewood, each load drawn by six oxen ; and
besides 80 pairs of naves for carriage wheels, it
yielded 6000 feet of timber, in boards.
AtMoseley, a few miles from Wolverhampton, are
certain hiding-holes, where Charles the Second was
concealed after the battle of Worcester.
Totmanslow, which gives name to the hundred,
is now inconsiderable, and remarkable for nothing1
but for having had a tumulus, the site of which is
forgotten. — Ralph Rees, a shepherd of this place,
was upwards of 127 years of age, when examined
by Dr. Morton.
The vale of Siiugborough, (north from <be hun-
dred of Totmanslow) embellished by nature with
verdant herbage, and abundance of fine timber, is
rendered further delightful by the genuine archi-
tecture of China, and all the varieties of ancient
and modern Europe, assembled under the auspices
of the Anson family. Here was born, in 1607, Lord
Anson, one of our most distinguished naval com-
manders.*
ing in the channel. Not long after his return, he was made'
rear-admiral of the blue, and one of the lords of the admiralty.
He was also chosen member of parliament for the borough of
Heydon. In 1747, he commanded the channel fleet, and cap-
tured six French men of war, and four East Indiamen. For these
services, he was created Lord Anson, and on the death of Sir
John Morris, he was named vice-admiral of England. In 1751,
he was appointed first lord of the admiralty, which post he held,
with a short interval, till his death. In 175S, he again com-
manded ihe channel fleet, having under him the gallant Sir
Edward llawke. After this, he was appointed admiral and
commander-in-chicf of his Majesty's fleets. The last service
he was engaged in, was in convoying to England her late
Majesty. He died in 1762. He married a daughter of the
Earl of Hardwicke, who died before him without issue. Lord
Anson was a cool and steady man, but too fond of plav, of
which knowing little, he was the constant dupe of sharpers': this
made some person say, that " though he had been round the
world, he was never in it."
TABLF;
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20?
SUFFOLK.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY,
THIS county, conjointly with that of Norfolk,
constitutes the eastern extremity of the island
of Britain. Its name, which marks it as the country
of the " south-folk," or " southern-folk," is evident-
ly derived from its situation with respect to Nor-
folk, the country of the " north-folk." It is bounded,
on the north, by the rivers Waveney and Little
Ouse ; on the east, by the northern ocean ; on the
south, by the Stour, which separates it from the
county of Essex ; and, on the west, by Cambridge-
shire. Its form approaches to that of a crescent,
the north-eastern and north-western points of which
fully compensate for the deficiency of the northern
and south-western parts. It is about forty-seven
miles, in length, from east to west ; and twenty-
seven miles, in breadth, from north to south. Its
superficial contents were generally estimated at 1269
square miles, or 812,160 acres : Arthur Young,
estimated them at about 800,000 acres ; but, accord-
ing to the latest official surveys, Suffolk contains
1566 square miles, or 1,002,240 acres.
This county is considered to enjoy one of the
dryest climates in the kingdom. That it is highly
salubrious, must be inferred from the fact that
according to the annual returns of mortality, in
the year 1811, the number of deaths, in Suffolk,
was in the proportion of 1 to 53 of the whole popu-
lation. In Cardiganshire, apparently the most salu-
brious county in the kingdom, the deaths were only
as 1 to 73 ; whilst, in Middlesex, they were as I to
36. — It has also been found, in Suffolk, that, upon
an average of 10 years, the mortality is only 1 in 54,
while the number of births is as 1 to 30. In this
county, however, the frosts are severe ; and, in the
spring, the north-east winds are sharp, prevalent,
and of long continuance. x
In Suffolk, the geologist will meet with nothing
to compensate a spirit of research. It contains no
raines, no mineral springs of note, nor any fossil
remains of the least interest.
Son., AGRICULTURE, &c.] — The state of agricul-
ture in Suffolk, is not inferior either in its objects
or conduct to that of any other county. The greatest
portion of the county is occupied as arable. AH
the improvements in tillage that are known in other
counties are the property of this, besides which it
has some peculiar ones. Among these, the avoiding
of spring plowings is the principal. Both drilling
and dibbling are very general, particularly upon a
clayey soil. A strong loam, on a clay- marl bottom,
predominates through the greatest part of the
county. From the river Deben, to the north of the
Stour, a vein of friable putrid-vegetable mould ex-
tends to the breadth of several miles, and may be
termed the best in the county. The eastern district
may be denominated a loamy firm sand, which being
well cultivated is very profitable ; the western dis-
trict of sand is a much poorer country, if we except
the black sand on a yellow bottom. Of the fen dis-
trict we need only observe that the surface is the
common peat of bogs, and the under stratum, a white
clay or marie. Beside the common crops of wheat,
barley, oats, rye, beans, peas, and buck-wheat, hops
and hemp are partially cultivated. The last is a
greatly increasing produce. The culture of hops is
on the decline, Saffron was formerly cultivated to
a great extent ; but since the demand has fallen off,
the produce is diminished. The management of
arable land differs much in the four distinct soils of
which Suffolk is composed. In the strong soils, the
best course is 1. fallow, 2. wheat, 3. beans, 4. barley,
5. clover, 6. wheat ; on the rich loam, 1. turnips,
2. barley, 3. clover, 4. wheat : in the sandy districts,
the management varies according to the quaility of
the soil ; in the fenny part of the county, cole-seed
is sown on one plowiug, after paring and burning,
then two crops of oats, with the last of which ray-
grass and clover are mixed ; after seven years,
the same course is repeated. Among the manures
in use among Suffolk farmers, crag must be noticed
as peculiar to the county. It is composed of dry
powdered shells, found in great masses on various
parts of the coast. The Suffolk swing plough, the
horse rake, a drill plough, with threshing mills ou
an improved construction, and a machine for de-
stroying weeds, are among the implements pecu-
liar to Suffolk, or first invented there.
CATTLE, &c.]— This county stands unrivalled for
draught
268
SUFFOLK.
draught cattle. The Suffolk punches arc described
as coarse headed, low in the fore part of the body,
with deep and large carcasses of a sorrel colour,
and the best draught horses in the world. Of late
years, breeders have produced a more handsome,
light, and active animal. Suffolk is not less famous
lor its breed of cows, which are generally hornless :
their characteristics are, a clean throat, with little
dewlap ; a snake head, clean thin legs, and short ;
a springing rib ; and a large carcass ; a general
habit of leanness, with high and ill-covered hip-
bones. The best yield eight gallons of milk per
day, for a considerable part of the season. The
dairy district of Suffolk is extensive, and the butter
among the best in England. The cheese is pro-
verbially worthless. The Norfolk breed of sheep
are common all over the country, but particularly
about Bury. Their flesh is excellent, and their
tvool fine, but as the former does not keep well,
in hot weather, and the latter is loose and ragged,
the south-down sheep have been introduced with
success, and have, in some districts, superseded
the native folds. The average number of lambs
brought to the Ipswich iamb fair, is 100,000. A
mixture of the two breeds seems to be now a
favourite. Suffolk supplies the London markets
* Anemone pulsatilla. Pa^que Flower ; on a bank on Ick-
lingham heath.
Arenaria peploides. Sea Sandwort ; on sea-shores, at Somh-
wolcl,
Artemisia campestris. Wild Soutliernwooil, or fine leaved
Mugwort; on tin* banks of Corn-fields, by the
way suit's near Elveden, on the way towards
Lynn, at Barton Mills, and elsewhere.
• maritima. Sea Wormwood; on seashores, at Or-
ford.
Aristolochia dematitis. Climbing Birthwort ; in woods and
hedges, at Bungay.
Asplenium ruta muraria. White Maiden Hair, Wall Rue or
Tentwort ; on Long Meltord church, and
elsewhere.
Atropa Belladonna. Deadly Nightshade, or Dwale ; in a
ditch in the abbey garden, at Btirv.
Bunias Cakile. Sea Rocket; on sea-shores at Soulhwold.
Brassica Campestris. Field Cabbage; on cliffs about Bawdsey,
near Orford.
Carduus acaulis. Dwarf Carline Thistle ; in the road from
Bury lo Long Melford.
eriophorus. Woolly-headed Thistle; in hilly meadows
and pastures of a chalky soil ; near Clare,
plentifully.
thara ftcxilis. Smooth'Chara; in the ponds about Henley
and Ipswich.
Chdidonium glaucium, Yellow-horned Poppy ; on sandy sea
shores, at Orford.
Cerastium umbellatum. Umbel lated Cerastium ; on walls about
Bury.
Coriaiidirum sativum. Coriander; in corn fields about Ips-
wich.
Cucubalut otites. Spanish Catchfly ; in and about the gravel
pits, on the north side of Newmarket town,
also by the way sides from Barton Mills to
Thetford.
Cicuta virosa. Long Leaved Water Hemlock ; about the
great lake at Lothingland.
with a considerable quantity of dairy fed pork.
The usual breed are white, short legged, and plump,
with short snouts, small bones, and light offals.
Poultry of all sorts, but particularly turkeys, are
plentiful in Suffolk. The western sand district
swarms with rabbits, of which one warren is said
to return 40,000 per annum. The whole county
is abundantly supplied with game, especially phea-
sants and partridges ; it also possesses several herds
of deer.
WOODS, WASTE LANDS, &c.] — The woodlands of
Suffolk extend from the north-east corner of the
county diagonally to the south-west, and formerly
contained a considerable quantity of oak timber.
The stock is now considerably diminished ; and,
nothing but the trouble and expence of clearing the
soil, prevents tiie application of large tracts to more
profitable purposes. Part of the fen- land is under
water, though subject to a t;ix for the drainage ;
14,000 acres in Burnt-fen have, been redeemed, and
are under cultivation. The other waste lands of
Suffolk are chiefly heaths, sometimes occupied as
sheep-walks.
PLANTS, &c.] — The rare plants of this county
are somewhat numerous. A list of them will be
found in the note below.*
RIVERS
Erysimum chieranthoides. Treacle Hedge Mustard, or Worm-
seed ; in the corn fields alioui Elveden.
FritiUaria Meleugris. Common Fmillary, Checquered Daf-
tixlil, or Snake's Head ; in meadows and pas*
tures, about Bury.
Frankenia Lavis. Smooth Frankenia, or Sea Heath ; in:
Lothingland, just over the water at Yarmouth.
Fucus siliquotus. Podded Fucus ; on sea rocks and stones,
at Orford.
Genista Pilosa. Hairy Dyers Broom ; on dry heaths, about
Lackford and Culford, about four or five miles
from St. Rdimmd's Bury.
Gentiana Campestris. Fit-Id Gentian; on a bank on Ickling-
ham heath.
Inula crithnoides. Golden Flowered Samphire; on the sea
coast.
Ilex aquifolium (baccis tuteis). Common Holly, with a
yellow bury ; at Wiston, not far from Bures.
Leonurus cardinca. Motherwort ; on the bill going from the
friary at Fornham All Saints, lo Bury heath.
Marchantia hemisphizrica. Hemispheric Marchantia; on banks
ot river*, wet ditches, and rocks ; at Sndbury.
Medicago Polymopha • A variety of Heart Clover, or
Treloil ; on the sea-bank, and by the quay, at
Ortord.
Oenanths Pimpenelloides. Parsley Water-drop; at Westley
bottom, near Bury.
Ophrys Nidus avis. Bird's-nest ; in woods and shady places,
at Aldboroogh.
Orobanche ramosa. Branched Broom rape; in corn-fields and
dry pastures, at Beccles.
Panicum sanquinnle. Cock's-foot Panic Grass ; in the ploughed
fields, about Elveden, plentifully.
Pisurn maritimum. Sea Peas ; on the stone beach, on the
end next lo Orford, running from Aldburgh,
called Shingles, abundantly.
Riccia natans. Fringed Riccia ; in the ponds near Henley.
Seditm anglifitm. English Stone-crop ; on the barren ground,
between Yarmouth and Dunwicb.
Scleranthus
SUFFOLK.
269
RITERS AND CANALS.] — Suffolk is, by nature, a
well watered county, affording great facilities to the
merchant ; and, to the agriculturist, the advantage
of irrigation, of which the Suffolk farmers are not
forward to avail themselves. The principal rivers
are : — the Gipping, which rises from three sources,
near Stowmarket, in the centre of the county, and
flows to Ipswich, where it falls into Ihe estuary,
called the Orwell ; the Stour, which rises near the
borders of Cambridgeshire, and, after running south-
ward, forms the boundary between Suffolk and
Essex, till it meets the Orwell, and is discharged,
like that river, into the German ocean, between Har-
wich and Landguard Fort ; the Deben, which has
its source near Debenham, and, taking a south-
eastern direction by Woodbridge, falls into the sea,
a few miles southward from that place ; the Wave-
ney, and the little Ouse, which both rise out of a
marshy ground near Lophamford, in Norfolk, and
flowing, one east, the other west, form the boundary
between that county and Suffolk; the Aid, which
rises near Framlingham, and falls into the sea near
Orford ; the Blythe, which flows from Saxfield to
Halesworth, Blythburgh, and Southwold, where it
falls into the German ocean ; and the Larke, which
passes Bury and Mildenhall to join the Great Ouse.
It is remarkable that all these streams have their
source within the limits of the county, or in its
immediate vicinity. For an account of the navigable
canal in this county, Fide Stowmarket. — Various
plans are in agitation for extending the inland navi-
fation of this county ; but, as none of them have
een determined on, and as counter projects are con-
stantly offering themselves to the notice of the public,
it would be useless to encumber our pages with the
details.
ROADS.] — Both the turnpike and cross roads in
this county are excellent ; in almost every part, the
latter are not inferior to the former. Recent im-
provements have effected this accommodation. — On
the 2d of February, 1819, a meeting was holden
at Stowmarket, to consider of the propriety of making
a turnpike-road from thence to Diss. Some resolu-
tions were consequently agreed to, and a committee
of examination and inquiry was appointed. It ap-
peared, from a survey which had been taken, that,
by the proposed new line of road, a saving of three
Scleranthus perinnis. Perennial Knawel ; in sandy corn-fields
about Elvedon.
Sambucus Ebulug. Dwarf Elder, or Danewort ; in the hedges
just before you enter Long Melford, from
London, plentifully.
Siltna noctiflora. Night Flowering Catchfly ; amongst corn,
about Saxmundham, and between the two
windmills and the warren lodge, at Mewell.
Scrophuluria ternalis. Yellow Figwort ; in hedges, about
Bury.
Stratoiles Aloides. Common Water Aloe, or Fresh Water
Soldier ; in the lake in Lothingland.
Trifolium glomeratum. Bounded-headed Trefoil ; in gravelly
places, about Saxmundham.
scahrum. Knotted Trefoil with oblong heads; at
New market, where Cucubalui otites grows.
TOL. JV. — KQ. 160.
miles in the distance, between Stowmarket and Diss,
might be effected.
GENERAL HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, &c.J — Of the
few antiquities which this county boasts, due notice
will be taken in their respective situations. — At the
descent of the Romans, Suffolk constituted part
of the district inhabited by the Iceni, whose history
has already been noticed in our accounts of Cam-
bridgeshire, Huntingdonshire, and Norfolk. In the
Roman division of the island, it was comprehended
in the province of Flavia Caesariensis. — When the
Romans abandoned Britain, and the Saxons had
made themselves masters of the country, Suffolk
constituted, with Norfolk and Cambridgeshire, one
of the petty kingdoms of the heptarchy. It was
denominated East Anglia. To this state the Ger-
man ocean formed a natural barrier on the east and
north-east ; the Stour divided it from the kingdom
of the East Saxons, or Essex, on the south ; and
on the west and north-west it bordered upon M ercia.
The stupendous effort of human labor, known by
the name of the Devil's Ditch, on Newmarket heath,
is supposed to have been formed as a line of demar-
cation and mutual defence. — The precise period of
the establishment of the monarchy of the East-
Angles by Uffa, cannot be fixed with certainty, but
it was about the year 530. In 592, Redwald inhe-
rited the kingdom, and was the first East-Anglian
monarch who embraced Christianity ; but the influ-
ence of his queen occasioned his relapse into the_
doctrines of paganism. His son, Eorpwald, who
ascended the throne in 624, also professed the Chris-
tion religion, though the greater part of his subjects
still continued in the rudest state of idolatry. The
honour of giving Christianity a permanent footing'
in East- Anglia was reserved for Sigbrecht, or Sige-
bert, the successor of Eorpwald. When recalled
from the continent, on the death of his half-brother,
for the purpose of being placed on the throne, he
brought over with him Felix, a learned and pious
Burgundian priest, whom he appointed Bishop of
Dunwich. In consequence of the indefatigable ex-
ertions of this prelate, and the judicious assistance
of the sovereign, the latter soon had the satisfaction
of witnessing the general conversion of his subjects
to the Christian faith. To this monarch the town of
Bury was indebted for the germ of the ecclesiastical
muscosa. Procumbent Tillaea ; on sandy heaths, about
Bury.
yeronicatriphyllos. Trifid Speedwell ; at Methwold, between
the two windmills and the warren lodge ; in the
gravel-pits, two miles beyond Barton Mills ;.
on the ridge of a hill, where a small cart-way
crosses the road to Lynn, and elsewhere in
the grass thereabouts ; also on the sandy fallow
fields, half a mile to the east of Icklingham.
terna. Spring Veronica, or Speedwell ; in sandy
corn-fields, near Bury. This was first found
to be indigenous in England, by Sir John
Cullum.
Urtica pilulifera. Roman Nettle ; about Aldborough, and
elsewhere on the coast, plentifully.
3t distinction
270
SUFFOLK.
distinction to which it afterwards attained. Sigebert
founded a monastery there, and built a church,
which he dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. After
a reign of seven years, this prince resigned the cares
of a crown to his kinsman Egric, and became a monk
in his own convent. Penda, king of Mercia, how-
ever, having turned his arms against the East-
Angles, Sigebert was prevailed upon to quit his
monastery, and to assume the command of their
army. His attempt to oppose the invader proved
unsuccessful, both himself and Egric being slain in
644. The crown now devolved to Anna, the nephew
of Redwald, a prince distinguished for wisdom and
valour ; but he was unable to cope with the power
of Penda; and after an unequal contest of ten
years, he bravely fell, with his son Firminus, in an
obstinate battle fought atBullchamp, near Dunwich,
in 155. The remains of the two princes were interred
at Blithburgh, but afterwards removed to the abbey
church at Bury. The assistance afforded to Penda,
by Ethelred, the unnatural brother of Anna, now
procured his elevation to the throne of East-Anglia,
•which continued to be governed by its own princes
till Offa, king of Mercia, about the year 792, assas-
sinated Ethelbert, and seized his kingdom. Ravaged
by contending armies, the country was converted
into a scene of bloodshed and desolation, but, in
828, it was obliged to submit to the preponderating
power of Egbert, king of the West-Saxons. That
monarch, instead of incorporating East-Anglia with
his own dominions, suffered it to remain as a tributary
state under its own sovereigns, the last of whom
•was the unfortunate Edmund, dignified after his
death with titles of Saint and Martyr. — The sub-
sequent history of this county has been already
Telated in that of Norfolk. Among other districts
laid waste by Sweyne, king of Denmark, on his
invasion of England, Suffolk suffered more severely
from his ravages ; neither towns nor churches being
spared, unless redeemed by the inhabitants with
large sums of money ; but, to compensate in some
measure for this treatment, Canute, his son and
successor, shewed it particular kindness. — When
the Norman conqueror had confiscated the estatesof
the Saxon nobility and gentry, throughout the king*
dom, to reward his principal officers, the 633 manors,
of which the county of Suffolk consisted, were par-
celled out among them. — At the same time Ralph
Waher, or Guader, was constituted earl, or chief
governor of this county, as well as Norfolk ; but,
having conspired against the king, he was obliged
to quit the country, upon which his titles were con-
ferred on Roger Bigod. — In the reign of Henry II.
Robert, Earl of Leicester, having taken part with
Henry, the eldest son of that monarch, invaded this
county with an army of Flemings, and was joined
by Hugh Bigod, Earl of Norfolk. This force over-
ran the whole county ; but being met near Bury,
by the royal troops, under the lord chief justice, they
were routed with great slaughter, and the earl hitn-
telf taken prisoner. By these two armies Suffolk
was, at this time, miserably laid waste, especially in
he neighbourhood of the place where the battle was
ought. — During the first war between the barons
and king John, Hugh de Boves, a French knight,
promised to bring over a strong army to the assist-
ance of the latter. In consideration of this intended
service, he obtained of the king a charter, granting
aim the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, from which
lie designed, as it was reported, to expel the inha-
bitants, and to re-people them with foreigners.
With this view he assembled a formidable army at
Calais. These troops, with their wives and children,
being there embarked, with an intent to land at
Dover, were overtaken by a violent tempest, and
Hugh himself, and all his followers, perished. The
inhabitants of Suffolk were not a little rejoiced at
their escape from the destruction intended them.
They, however, suffered severely from the allies of
the barons ; for Louis, the dauphin of France, in
conjunction with the nobles who were in arms against
John, made incursions into this county, and having
ravaged the towns and villages, reduced it into com-
plete subjection to themselves. — In the rebellion ex-
cited by Wat Tyler and Jack Straw against Richard
the Second, the populace of this county, headed by
John Wraw, and John Ball, two seditious priests,
took a conspicuous share. Assembling in vast num -
bers, they committed the greatest enormities, putting
to death the chief justice of England, the Earl of
Suffolk, and other distinguished persons, till they
were routed with great slaughter, and finally dis-
persed by the bishop of Norwich. — In the fifteenth
year of Henry the Seventh, one Patrick, an Augus-
tine friar of this county, having a scholar, named
Ralph Wilford, the son of a shoemaker, instructed
him to assume the character of the Earl of War-
wick, nephew to Edward IV. at that time con-
fined in the Tower, whence the impostor pretend-
ed to have escaped by the aid of the friar. This
story gained credit from many people, as soon
as it was divulged, which encouraged the friar to
assert its authenticity from the pulpit. The king
soon informed of these transactions, caused both
master and scholar to be apprehended ; the latter
was hanged, and the friar condemned to perpetual
imprisonment. — It does not appear that Suffolk had
any share in Kett's rebellion, in the reign of Edward
the Sixth. — On Edward's decease the inhabitants of
Suffolk, though sincere Protestants, zealously sup-
ported the title of Mary, against the pretensions of
Lady Jane Grey. When the princess repaired from
Norfolk to Framlingham Castle in this county, the
nobility and gentry resorted to her, offering their
services to vindicate her rightful claim to the crown,
on condition that they might «njoy their religion as
established in the reign of her predecessor. Mary
assured them that no alteration should be made i n that
point, by her consent, and still less by her authority ;
but no sooner was she firmly seated on the throne,
than the people of Suffolk found themselves as much
the victims of the misguided system of this princess
as
SUFFOLK.
271
M the rest of their fellow-subjects. They ventured
to remonstrate with her majesty, anil humbly entreat-
ed her to be mindful of her promise to them, but
were answered, that " it was not the place of mem-
bers to govern the head, nor subjects their prince,
as they should hereafter know." The threat con-
veyed in the concluding words was fulfilled in the
rigorous persecution to which many of the inha-
bitants of this county fell a sacrifice. — In 1578, the
nobility and gentry of Suffolk magnificently enter-
tained Queen Elizabeth in her progress ; for though
they had but short notice of her intended visit, they
prepared so well for it, that on her entering the
county, she was received by two hundred young
gentlemen clad in white velvet, three hundred of
the graver sort in black, and 1500 attendants on
horseback, under the conduct of the high-sheriff,
Sir William Spring. When her majesty, highly
pleased with her entertainment, left the country on
her return, she was attended to the confines by the
like escort. — During the civil war of Charles the
First, this was one of those counties that associated
for the maintenance of the cause of the parliament,
and were placed under the command of the Earl of
Manchester, air Edward Barker, Sir John Petty,
and other loyal gentlemen of this county, endea-
voured, but unsuccessfully, to raise a force to secure
it for the king.*
CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS, &c.] —The
ecclesiastical government of -Suffolk is vested in the
bishop of Norwich, assisted by the two archdeacons
* Previously to the Norman Conquest, and long afterwards,
the honours of Suffolk and Norfolk were united. The former
never conferred a separate title till the 1 1 th Edward lit. when,
on the decease of Thomas PlantaRenet de Brolherton, without
issue, Robert, son of Robert de Ufford, steward of the royal
household, by Cicely de Valoines, was created Earl of Suffolk,
and had an annuity of 20/. per annum granted him sub nomine
et honore comitis. In the 43d year of the same reign, he left
his honour and possessions to his son, William de UitTord, who
was snatched away by sudden death. The title thus became
extinct, and lay dormant till Richard the Second, in the ninth
year of his reign bestowed it on Michael de la Pole, chancellor,
and keeper of the great seal. His son, who had been guilty of
some misdemeanor, died in exile. His large estate was confis-
cated, so that a small portion only descended to his son and heir.
— Michael de la Pole, who married Catharine, daughter of
Hugh, Earl of Stafford. He died of a flux in 1415, at the
siege of Harfleur.— Michael de la Pole, his son and heir, fell
within a month after his father's decease, at the battle of Agin-
court, William de la Pole, brother to the gallant earl, succeeded
him in his honours and possessions. This nobleman is accused
Of having been concerned with the cardinal of Winchester, in
the assassination of the "good" Duke of Gloucester; and, after
the death of the cardinal, governed every thing with uncon-
trolled sway. His conduct soon excited the jealousy of the
other nobility ; and every odious or unsuccessful measure was
attributed to him. So strong was the popular resentment against
him, that the king, to skrern him as much as possible, sentenced
him to five years' banishment. This was considered by liis
enemies as an escape from justice; the captain of a ship was
therefore employed to intercept him in his passage to France.
Being seized near Dover, his head was struck off on the side of
a long boat ; after which, his remains were interred in the colle-
giate church of Wingfield, in this county. His son and heir,
John de la Pule, having married Elizabeth, sister to Edward
of Sudbury and Suffolk. The parishes, however,
of Hadleigh, Monks llKngh, and Moulton, are pecu-
liars (o the archbishop of Canterbury, in which pro-
vince Suffolk is comprised j and Freckehham, with
Isleham, in Cambridgeshire, is a peculiar to the
bishop of Rochester. The diocesan had but one
archdeacon till 1120, when Richard, archdeacon of
the whole county, being elevated to an episcopal
see in France, Eborard, or Everard, then bishop
of Norwich, divided Suffolk into two archdeaconries ;
making the western part of it, with such parishes in
Cambridgeshire as belonged to his diocese, subject
to the archdeacon of Sudbury, and the eastern por-
tion to the archdeacon of Suffolk. The former is
subdivided into eight deaneries : Sudbury, Stow,
Thingo, Clare, Fordham, in Cambridgeshire ;
Hartismere, Blackbourn, and Thedwestry ; and
the latter into fourteen, which are, Ipswich, Bos-
mere, Claydon, Hoxne, Southelmham, Wangford,
Lothmgland, Dunvvich, Orlbrd, Loes, Wilford,
Carlford, Colneis, and Samford. — The high-sheriff
for the time being is at the head of the civil govern-
ment of the county, which, in this respect, is divided
into the Geldableand Franchises. In the Conner, the
issues and forfeitures are paid to the king : in the
latter, to the lords of the liberties. The geldable
hundreds are, Samford, Bosmere and Claydon,
Stow, Hartismere, lloxne, Blything, Wangford,
and the two half hundreds of Mutford and Lothing-
land. For these the sessions are held at Beccles
and Ipswich ; that is, at Beccles, for Wangford,
Ihe Fourth, had the honours of Marquis and Duke confirmed
to him and his heirs. At his death in 1491, his eldest son,
John, who, in his father's life-time had been created Earl of
Lincoln, succeeded him in his honours of Suffolk. He fell,
with 4000 of his followers, at the battle of Stoke- upon-Trent,
in 1487.— Edmund, his next brother, succeeded him. Henry
the Eighth conceived a strong jealousy of him, as a dangerous
rival ; and, ultimately, he was beheaded in the Tower. By his
death, this honour again became extinct, but was afterwards
revived in another family, in the person of Charles Brandon,
son of Sir Thomas Brandon, marshal of ihe court of common
pleas. Charles, his son and heir, was invested, by Henry the
Eighth, with the dignity of Viscount Lisle and Duke of Suffolk.
This nobleman won the heart of the king's sister, the princess
Mary, who was married to Louis XII. of France ; and, after
her short-lived union with that monarch, became her husband.
He left two sons, who both died of the sweating sickness, July
14, 1551, without heirs. Henry Grey, Marquis of Dorset,
having married Frances, eldest daughter of Charles Brandon,
and the princess Mary, sifter to Henry the Eighth, was now
created Duke of Suffolk, Oct. 11, 155'l. By this union, he had
three daughters, the eldest of whom, Jane, being married to
Guildford, Lord Dudley, fourth son of the Duke of Northum-
berland, was, through his artifices, appointed by the will of king
Edward the Sixth, his successor, to the prejudice of his sisters
Mary and Elizabeth. The former having soon overcome all
opposition, the ill fated Lady Jane Grey suffered for the ambition
of her friends ; her father, her husband, and herself, being all
brought to the block. The title was not revived for many years,
till Thomas Howard, eldest son of Thomas, Duke of Norfolk,
by his second wife, Margaret, daughter and heiress of Thomas
Lord Audley, of Walden, and lord high chancellor of England,
was, in the first year of the reign of James I. created Earl of
Suffolk. He died in 1626. In his family the honours have
ever since remained.
Blything1,
272
SUFFOLK.
Blything, Mutford, and Lothingland ; ana at Ips-
wich, for the remainder. The franchises are three
in number.
" 1. The Franchise or Liberty of St. Ethelrcd,
formerly belonging to the prior and convent, and now
to the dean and chapter of Ely, contains the hun-
dreds of Carlford, Colneis, Wilfbrd, Plomesgate,
Loes, and Tbredling, for which the sessions are held
at Woodbridge. The prior and convent possessed
this liberty in the time of Edward the Confessor ;
and when they were changed in 1541, into a dean
and chapter, it was reputed to be of the yearly
Talue of 20/.
"2. The Franchise, or Liberty of St. Edmund,
given to the abbey of Bury by king Edward the
Confessor, comprehends the hundreds of Cosford,
Babergh, Risbridge, Lackford, Blackbourn, Thed-
westry, Thingo, and the half hundred of Ixning ;
for which the sessions are held at Bury.
" 3. The Duke of Norfolk's liberty, granted by
letters-patent of king Edward IV. dated 7th Decem-
ber, 1408, of returning writs, having a coroner,
and receiving all tines and amercements within his
manors of Bungay, Kelsale, Carlton, Peasenhall,
the three Stonhams, Dennington, Bruntlish, the four
Ilketsals, and Cratfield." — There is but one assize
for the whole county ; but at every assize two grand
juries are appointed, one for the geldable, and the
other for the liberty of Bury St. Edmund's. Suffolk
and Norfolk had formerly but one high-sheriff ; but,
since 1576, a distinct officer has been nominated for
each of these counties. — Altogether, the county com-
prises 508 parishes, and 5 parts of parishes ; and it
lias 17 petty sessions, and 104 county magistrates.
MANAGEMENT OF THE POOR.] — The most remark-
able circumstance relating to the poor in this county,
is the incorporation of various hundreds for erecting
and supporting houses of industry. The local incon-
venience and distress arising from the number of
poor, and the expence of maintaining them, occa-
sioned many districts to apply to parliament for the
power of incorporating themselves, and of regulating
the employment, and maintenance of the poor by
certain rules not authorized by the existing poor
laws. Several acts of parliament accordingly passed,
incorporating those districts, where the poor have
since been governed and supported according to the
power given by such acts. The opinions of T. Rug-
gles, Esq. and Arthur Young, are decidedly in
favour of these hundred houses, the whole of which
are built in as dry, healthy, and pleasant situations,
as the vicinity affords. The kitchens, brewhouses,
bakehouses, butterys, laundrys, larders, cellars, &c.
are all large, and convenient ; the work-rooms are
large and well aired ; and the sexes are kept apart,
both in hours of work and recreation. The dormi-
tories are also large, airy, and conveniently disposed;
separate rooms for children of each sex, adults and
aged. The married have each a separate apartment
to themselves ; mothers with nurse children are also
by themselves. The infirmaries are large, conve-
nient, airy, and comfortable ; none without fire-
places. All the houses have a room for a dispensary ;
and most of them a surgeon's room besides. The
halls are large, convenient, well ventilated, with two
or more fire-places, and calculated for the reception
of full as many as the other conveniences of the
house can contain. The chapels are large, neat, and
plain ; several of them rather tending to grandeur
and elegance. There are also convenient store-
houses and warehouses for keeping the manufactures
of the house, the raw materials, clothing, &c. for the
use of the inhabitants. The land belonging to the
houses, and the gardens in particular, are calculated
for producing a sufficient quantity of vegetable diet.
— The practice of frequent white-washing, does
much toward preserving the' air of these houses
sweet and wholesome. — Mr. Ruggles considered,
that these institutions amended the morals of the
poor, and diminished the poor-rates. It must be
admitted, however, notwithstanding the advantages
which we have mentioned, that the suffrages of the
public are not uniformly in their favour. The poor,
generally, are said to dislike them ; and, in some
districts, they are encountered by prejudices of a
very formidable nature.
Benefit Clubs, of which there are between 200
and 300, comprising not fewer than 8000 members,
flourishing considerably in this county ; and, of late,
Saving Banks have been numerously, extensively,
and most successfully introduced. — At the com-
mencement of the year 1819, the parishioners of
Luxfield came to the determination of farming, by
trustees, the land belonging to the poor, and to apply
the profits to their benefit, without any charge for
personal superintendance. — With this view, a system
of regulations has been adopted, combined with that
of Saving Banks, which if duly acted upon, can
scarcely fail of upholding the independence of the
poor ; and of materially bettering their condition.
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.] — Suffolk re-
turns 16 members to parliament : 2 for the county ;
and 2 for each of the boroughs of Aldborough,
Dunwich, Bury St. Edmund's, Eye, Ipswich, Or-
ford, and Sudbury.
COMMERCE AND MANUFACTURES.] — The whole ex-
ports of this county are corn and malt, except
from Lowestoft, which is famous for the herring
fishery. Suffolk was formerly as distinguished for
its trade and manufactures as for its agriculture,
but these, except the fabric of some thin stuffs, as
says, and crapes, have been long declining.
FAIRS.] — Aldborough — March 1, May 3, for toys.
Becc/es — Ascension-day, Whit-Monday, St. Peter's,
June 29, October 2, for horses and petty chapmen.
Berg/wit. (East) — Wednesday after St. S within,
July 15, for toys.
Bi/destotte — Ash-Wednesday, Holy-Thursday, for
wearing apparel and toys.
Blythborough — April 5, for toys.
Botesdale — Holy-Thursday, for cattle and toys.
Boxjord — Easter-Mon., St.Thoinas,Dec. 21, toys
Boxteau
SUFFOLK.
273
Doxtead— Whit-Tuesday, for cattle.
Brandon — February 11, Monday before Easter,
July 5, and November 16, for cattle, toys, &c.
Unset — July 5, for butter, sheep, and toys.
Biingay — May 14, for horses and lean cattle;
September 25, for hogs and petty chapmen.
Buies— Holy-Thursday, for toys.
Bury St. Edmund's — October 2, a fortnight, for
millinery goods, butter and cheese, December 1.
Clare — Easter-Tuesday, July 26, for toys.
Cooling — July 31, for lambs, other cattle, and
pedlary ; October 17, for sheep chiefly, other cattle,
and pedlary.
Debenham — June 24, for braziers and toys.
Dunwiclt — St. James, July 25, for toys.
Elmsett — Whit-Tuesday, for toys.
JEarl Soham — August 4, for lambs.
Eye — Whit-Monday, for cattle and toys.
Felshani— August 16, for sheep, lambs, and toys.
Finniiigham— Sept. 4, for toys and lean cattle.
Fratntingham — Whit-Monday, October 10, cattle,
sheep, and cloaths.
Fraitsden — Holy-Thursday, for cattle.
Glemsford — June 24, for toys.
Gorltston — June 8.
Great Tfiurluw— October 10, for sheep and toys.
Hac/ieston— November 12, for boots, shoes, uphol-
ftery, and joiners.
hadieigh— Whit-Monday, for toys ; October 10,
for butter, cheese, and toys.
Haleswurtli— October 18, for Scotch beasts.
Handjord— March 18, May 18, August 22, for
cattle.
tiuughhy — August 25, for toys.
llaverlii'ti— May 12, August 26, for toys.
Hiutun— June 29, for toys.
Hoi-ringer— September 4, for toys and sheep.
Hoxne — December 1, a month, for Scotch cattle.
Hundon— Holy-Thursday, for cattle.
Inkworth, near Buiy-— Whit-Monday, pleasure
and toys.
Ipswich— May 4, lean cattle and toys; May 18,
cattle ; July 25, toys ; August 8, horses ; 22, lambs ;
September 25, butter and cheese.
Kersey— Easter-Monday, for toys.
Lavcnham — Shrove-Tuesday, October 10, for but-
ter and cheese.
LayJield—M&y 12, St. Luke, October 18, for toys.
Lindsey—J uly 25, for toys.
Loaestoft— May-day, St. Michael, September 29,
for petty chapmen.
Market West on— August 15, a small pedling fair.
Mumingham, near Woodbridge— August 9, lambs
and uorses.
Mittishaw -August 9, shew of horses.
Me/ford — Whit-Tuesday, pedlary, Wednesday
and Thursday, cattle and sheep.
Menttleaham— Holy-Thursday, for cattle.
MMen~ftalt — October 10, for wood.
fteylaAd — October 2, for horses, cattle, and toys.
Neediiam — November 8, for toys,
vat. iv. — NO. 160.
Newmarket — Whit-Tuesday, November 8, for
horses and sheep.
Qrford— Midsummer-day, June 24, for toys.
Pohtead — June 16, for toys.
Santon — May 31, for pedlary.
Saxmundham — Holy-Thursday, September 23,
toys.
Snape, or Dunningworth, near Aldborough — Aug.
11, for horses.
Somerliton — July 31, for toys.
Southwold — Trinity-Monday, St. Bartholomew,
August 24, toys.
Stoke, near Nayland—Mzy 12, for toys.
Sto&market— July 10, for shop goods and toys,
August 12, for sheep and cattle.
Sfradbrooke— August 10, St. Matthew, September
21, for toys.
Stratford — June 11, for toys.
Sudtmry— March 12, July 10, December 12, for
toys.
toys.
Thandiston, or Franceon — July 31, sheep and
aft
Thwaite—June30, November 25, for cattle and
toys.
Woodbridge— April 5, October 23, for toys.
Wolpit— August 12, September 16, for horses ;
19, for cattle and toys.
MARKET TOWNS.]— The following are the market
towns, with their population, in the county of Suf-
folk :—
Population.
Towns. Market-days. 1801
Aldborough Saturday 804
Beccles Saturday 2,788
Bildeston Wednesday 744
Btandon Friday 1 148
Botesdale Thursday 565
Bungay Thursday 2,349
Bury St. Edmund's... Wednesday and Sat... .7,655
Clare.... Monday
Debenham Friday 1,215
Dunwich Monday 184
Eye Saturday 1,734
Framlingliam Saturday 1,854
Hadleigh Monday and Saturday ..2,332
Haverhill Wednesday 1308
Ipswich Wednesday and Saturday.. ..9,620 13,670
Ixworth Friday 827 846
Lavenham Tuesday 1776 1711
Lowestoft .; ..Wednesday 2,332 3,189
Mendlesham Tuesday 1,051 1,093
Mildenhall '.....Friday 2,283 2,493
Needham Market Wednesday 1,348 1301
Neyland Friday 881
Orford Monday 751 737
Saxmundham Thursday 855
Southwold Thursday 1,054 1,369
Stowmarket Thursday. 1,761 2,006
Sudbury Saturday 3,283 3,471
Woodbridge Wednesday 3,020 4,332
POPULATION.] — The population of this county,.
in the year 1700, was 152,700; in 1750, it was
156,800; in 1801, it was 21O.431 ; and, in 1811,
as appears in the following table, it was 234,211.
3 z. Summary
1811
1,066
2,979-
762
1360
575
2,82S
7,980
1,170
1,224
208
1,893
1,96.3
2,592
1440
274
SUFFOLK.
Summary nf the Population of the County of SUFFOLK, at published by Authority «f Parliament, in 1811.
HUNDREDS, &c.
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
jj
1
H^
it
5 v u
2£'e.
II
»fi
M
a
|5
M
•d
V
1
S
>-,
<a c .
!U .— <U
£-0 5
v v £
</> t^™
.Si J5 u
§11
CK
>.
l.siu
3-31*.
{« P* c/1
<y o - 4>
•^'H.-s 5
E S 2 o
[2 "H-S
-a
, v .
i 2 i </i
1>!8
jjlje
11 If
— <n — T3
<5.SS
Males.
•'emales
Total
of
Persons
3353
1560
2844
1751
739
477
1433
2337
1740
1514
1787
2125
1342
1958
1397
1092
1240
749
382
1869
761
1474
2733
570
4041
2253
3914
2143
1049
685
1781
2907
2575
1978
2235
2349
1858
2520
1878
1369
1646
1014
514
251
1189
1681
3102
802
9
2
13
3
1
1
4
6
7
7
14
31
4
7
5
5
6
3
1
1
3
21
1
55
15
47
16
9
7
25
22
17
35
40
47
12
42
5
23
19
6
1
21
13
30
99
18
2389
1365
2487
1465
828
466
1116
1860
1814
1143
1010
903
1080
1672
1354
804
1173
856
330
1064
770
164
193
40
1300
486
966
515
174
161
501
790
618
446
965
921
531
609
382
406
354
110
172
805
322
966
2083
597
352
402
461
163
47
58
164
257
143
389
2fiO
465
247
239
142
159
119
48
12
282
97
551
826
165
9215
5374
9891
5224
2565
1722
4063
6950
6691
4557
5314
5567
4311
6061
4635
3155
3716
2578
1226
5141
2922
3539
6064
1507
9864
5792
10387
549)
2572
1862
4448
7715
6897
4980
6108
6045
4722
6304
4670
3495
3968
2695
1333
5763
3095
4447
7606
1964
19079
11166
20278
10715
5137
3584
8511
14665
13588
9537
11422
11612
9033
12365
9305
6650
7684
5279
2553
10904
6017
7936
13670
3471
Mutford and Lothingland...
Wilford
Borough -of St. Edmund's...
Ditto of Sudbury
Totals
37227
47634
155
624
26406
15180
6048
111988
122223
234211
CHIEF TOWNS, HUNDREDS, PARISHES, &c.
BABERGH.] — The hundred of Babergh is bound-
ed, on the south and west, by the river Stour, which
divides it from Essex ; on the north, by Thingoe
and Thed westry ; and, on the east, by Cosford and
Stamford.
Acton, or Aketon, stands on the western side of
the road from Sudbury to Lavenham. Acton Place
was the property of William Jennens, Esq. who died
in 1791, with the reputation of being the richest
subject in the kingdom. This noble mansion, though
suffered to decay, still exhibits some vestiges of its
former magnificence. The hall is adorned with
basso-relievoes, and some admirable painting and
sculpture. Adjoining to the point-room, which is
furnished and hung with needle-work, is the silk-
room, which contains a small bed, said to be lined
with the shirts of William the. Third, who was god-
father to the late owner. The garden is ploughed
and sown as a field.
Boxford, situated in a fertile valley, consists of
several streets, and carries on a considerable trade
in malt, deer, and sheep-skins. The church, which
is spacious, is adorned with a spire ; and has over
the entrance seven niches, and some inscriptions
almost obliterated. There are, in this parish, two
ancient mansions, one of the Peyton family, the
other of the Bennetts.
Boxstead was the property of Richard the Third,
when Duke of Gloucester ; and afterwards the seat
of the Poleys, ancestors of the flourishing families of
that name, now resident in this county.
Brent Illeigh, now a village, but once a market
town, was long the property of the Colman family ;
one of whom, Dr. Colman, of Trinity College, Cam-
bridge, built and furnished with books a parochial
library ; another, Edward Colman, Esq. endowed
a neat alms-house for six poor persons ; and the last
of that family transferred the estate to his kinsman,
Edward Goat, Esq.
^ Bures, situated on the Stour, is the place where
St. Edmund was crowned king of the East Angles.
A fire, occasioned by lightning, consumed, in 1733,
the spire of the church, and melted the bells. In
this edifice is the tomb and effigies of a knight,
named Cornard, who, tradition says, sold a farm
for id. in the time of Henry the Third. The Bures,
and Walgraves were also interred here, and many
of their monuments remain. An original grant from
William I. to Walgrave, a native Englishman, was,
in 1612, in the hands of the lords of the manor.
This was obtained by the intercession of a German,
also named Walgrave, whom the Saxon was to
reward
SUFFOLK.
275
reward with the hand of his daughter and heiress.
A legacy of 2000/. was left to this parish by William
Martin, Esq. of Lincoln's Inn, of which -10/. are
annually paid to the vicar.
Cavendish, situated on the Stour, is remarkable
for having given name to one of the most illustrious
houses in Britain. Of this family was the chief
justice of Cavendish, who lost his life in Wat
Tyler's insurrection. Sir William Cavendish found-
ed the fortune of the ducal houses of Devonshire
and Newcastle, with the sequestrated possessions of
the religious houses at the Dissolution. The church,
at Cavendish, is handsome, and embellished with a
square tower. A mile from the village is the elegant
seat of Hallifax, Esq.
The chapel of Chilton has been long converted
into a thatched cottage ; the only remains of the
original building are the outer walls, windows, and
door.
Cockfield consists of two manors ; one, Cockfield
Hall, the other Earl's Hall, so called from having
been the property of the Earls of Oxford. Both
now belong to Richard Moore, Esq. of Melford.
Edwardston was once a village of considerable
size, and the property of Waryn, who died worth
two hundred thousand marks, and was called the
English Croesus. A religious house at this place
was a cell to the monastery of Abingdon.
The inhabitants of Glemsford are exempted from
serving on juries elsewhere than at Ely. The manor
is now the property of Richard Moore, Esq.
MeU'ord, called .Long Melford, from its extent,
is situated near the Stour. The church, standing
on a rising ground, is a fine specimen of the archi-
tecture of the fifteenth century. The tower only is
of modern erection. At the upper end of the north
aisle is the monumental effigies of William Clopton,
Esq. who died in 1446. Near the altar, is the
marble monument of another of this family, who
contributed to the repairs of the beautiful chapel at
the east end of the church, as appears from an
inscription on the battlements. A splendid monu-
ment of Sir William Cordell, speaker of the House
of Commons, master of the rolls, and founder of
the hospital at Melford, is seen on the right side of
the altar, and represents the reclining figure of the
knight under a canopy, supported by Corinthian
columns. The north window contains some muti-
lated paintings and inscriptions. The hospital,
founded in 1573, by Sir William Cordell, and
endowed for a warden, twelve poor men, and two
poor women, decayed house-keepers of Melford,
stands near the church. On the green is Melford
Hall, an ancient, and spacious brick building, adorn-
ed, in front, with four small round towers. This
mansion, belonging to Mary, widow of the third Earl
Rivers, was plundered at the beginning of the civil
wars, with another seat in Essex, to the immense
amount of lOO.OOO/. It is now the property and
* In the course of the year 1818, an attempt was made, wilh
residence of Sir William Parker, Bart.-r-Kentwell
Hall, near the church, now the residence of Richard
Moore, Esq. was formerly possessed by the ancient
and respectable family of the Cloptons, who took
their name from a parish in this county. Another
ancient seat, Melford Place, at the south end of the
town, was long the residence of the Martyn family.
Lavenham, formerly a market-town,* seven miles
N.N.E. from Sudbury, and 6l| N.E. from London,
is seated on a gentle eminence, at the foot of which
flows the river Bret. It was once famous for its
manufacture of blue cloth ; afterwards for a con-
siderable trade in serges, shalloons, and spinning-
yarn ; and it is now noted for its woollen-yarn,
calimancoes, and hempen-cloth. The town is govern-
ed by six capital burgesses, who are chosen for life.
It has a free-school, bridewell, and work-house ;
and a market-place, with a stone cross. The church,
situated on an eminence at the west end of the town,
is accounted the most beautiful in the county. It
is built of free-stone, and curiously adorned with
flint-work. This edifice appears to have been re-
founded, or considerably enlarged, by Thomas
Spring, surnamed the rich clothier, and his pos-
terity, in conjunction with the Earls of Oxford,
whose arms are found with his in different parts of
it. The porch, an elegant and highly enriched piece
of architecture, is supposed to have been erected by
John, fourteenth Earl of Oxford, whose arms are
found there, impaled and quartered with those of
the noblest families in the kingdom. The roof and
two pews of the above-mentioned families are highly
finished specimens of Gothic work ; and the nume-
rous windows still exhibit splendid remains of
stained glass. On the left side of the altar is a
monument of alabaster, erected in honour of the
Rev. Henry Copinger, rector of Lavenham, on
which the divine and his wife, wilh their twelve
children, are represented in black, and in the atti-
tude of prayer. On a small mural monument, in
the north aisle, are the engraved figures, in brass^
of a man with his wife and six children, under which,
in the old English character, is the following in-
scription : —
Contynuall prayse these lynes in brasse
Of Allaine Dister here,
A clothier vertoug while he was
In Lavenham many a ycare.
For as in lyefe he loved best
The poore to clothe and feede,
So with the riche and all the rest
He neighbourlie agreed ;
And did appoynte before lie dyed,
A speciall year'.ie rent,
Whiche slioulde be every WhitspnUde
Amonge the poorest spent
£t obiit Annu Dili 1534.
All recollection of the benefaction is now lost.
Several valuable charities belong to Lavenham, as
some success, to revive the weekly corn market, at Lavenbam.
an
270
SUFFOLK.
an endowed alms-house, a charity-school, and a
fund bequeathed by Edward Coleman, Esq. of
Furnival'slnn, 1696, for binding annually one poor
bov from the parish of Lavenham, Milden, or Brent
llleigh. The lordship is vested in Richard M'oore,
Esq. -Among the customs peculiar to Lavenham,
maybe mentioned the tenure of Borough- Eng/is/i,
and the exemption of the inhabitants from serving
in any court held for this place. The principal
persons, who were either born or have resided here,
are, Richard de Langham, who was beheaded by
the followers of Wat Tyler ; Thomas , Spring, the
rich clothier, from whom descended the respect-
able family of that name ; and Sir Thomas Cooke,
lord mayor of London, in 1402. This last person,
whose descendants flourished at Gidea Hall, in
Essex, suffered a heavy fine and long imprisonment,
under Edward the Fourth, for lending money to the
Lancastrians.
Monks Illeigh, 16 miles W.S.W. from Ipswich,
and 57 N. E. from London, was so called because
given to the monks of St. Peter, Canterbury, by
Brithnoth, Earl of Essex, who fell at the battle
of Maiden, in 991. It remains a peculiar of the
archbishop, who is also patron of the church.
Neyland, seated on the Stour, by which it is
sometimes inundated, had once a flourishing trade
in woollen goods, which is now reduced to a trifling
manufacture of yarn, for Norwich crapes and bom-
bazeens. The church, which stands in the centre
of the town, is its principal ornament. A monu-
ment, on which are delineated the letter A, and
the figure of a bell, is intended to perpetuate the
memory of one Abel, a cloth-worker, who built the
handsome porch of this edifice.
The church of Stoke Neyland, to which Neyland
is a. chapelry, is spacious and lofty, and may be seen
from Harwich, a distance of twenty miles. It con-
tains several handsome monuments of the Howards.
Giftbrd's Hall, in 'this parish, is built of brick, round
a quadrangular court, in the style of architecture
used in the reign of Henry the Eighth. Opposite
to the entrance are the remains of an old chapel.
Tondring Hall is the property and residence of Sir
William Rowley, Bart, one of the present members
for the county. Sir William Capel, draper and lord
mayor of London, a loyal gentleman in the reign of
Henry the Seventh, was a native of Stoke. He
freely presented to the avaricious monarch, immense
sums of money, and even carried his loyalty so far
as to dissolve a pearl, of large value, in a glass of
wine, which he drank to the king's health.
Sudbury, 22 miles W. by S. from Ipswich, and
54| N. E. by N. from London, anciently denomi-
nated Southurgh, is a borough and market town
of great antiquity. It is situated on the Stour,
over which it has a well-built stone bridge, and
comprehends three parishes, called St. Gregory's,
St. Peter's, and All Saints'. The corporation is
composed of a mayor, six aldermen, and twenty -
four capital burgesses, who return two members,
elected by the freemen, in number between 700 or
800. The woollen manufacture, introduced by the
Flemings, whom Edward the Third invited to in-
struct his subjects, continued to flourish here, but
is now on the decline. Sudbury has, however, still
a trade in says, and a silk manufactory, recently
established. Simon of Sudbury, afchbishop of Can-
terbury, was a native of this place, on which he
conferred important benefits, by building the upper
end of St. Gregory's church, and founding a col-
lege and priory ; part of the last is still standing,
and is occupied as a dwelling house. The head of
this prelate, which was struck off by the rebels in
Wat Tyler's insurrection, is preserved. Thomas
Gainsborough, an eminent portrait and landscape-
painter of the last century, was born here in 1727,
and at a very early age displayed a strong propen-
sity for the art, by which he afterwards rose to fame
and fortune. Whilst yet young, he was sent to the
metropolis for instruction, and soon began to paint
landscapes for sale. He resided some years at
Ipswich and Bath, and fixed his residence in the
capital in 1774. He there painted the portraits of
his Majesty and many of the royal family, and soon
rose to the first rank in his profession. Gains-
borough possessed all the characteristics of original
genius ; his talent for music was extraordinary, and,
with a small knowledge of books, he wrote letters in.
a style that might be mistaken for a close imitation
of Sterne's. He died in 1788, and was interred at
Kew. His eldest brother was also a good artist ;
and another, who was a dissenting preacher at Hen-
ley upon Thames, possessed a strong genius for
mechanics. William Enfield, the author ot " Ser-
mons," the " Preacher's Directory," the " English
Preacher," " Biographical Sermons," " Institutes
of Natural Philosophy," and an abridgement of
" Brucke(r's History of Philosophy," but best known
as the compiler of a useful school classic, called
"the Speaker," was born at Sudbury in 1741. At
the early age of 22, he was chosen minister of a
congregation at Liverpool ; afterwards, he became
tutor and lecturer on the belles lef.tres at Warrington
academy ; and, finally, preacher at the Octagon
meeting-house, Norwich, where he died in 1797.
BLACKBOURN.] — The hundred of Blackbourn is
bounded, on the northern side, by the river Ouse,
which separates it from Norfolk ; on the east, by
Hartesmere ; on the south, by Stow, Thedwestry,
and Thingoe ; and on the west, by Lackford.
At Ashfield, an obscure village, were born the
lord chancellor Thurlow, and his brother, the late
bishop of Durham. They were the sons of the
vicar, under whose auspices they were educated.
On leaving the university, the former entered him-
self of the Inner Temple, but did not distinguish,
himself at the bar, till his abilities were employed in
the Douglas cause ; after which, he became succes-
sively solicitor-general, attorney-general, and lord
high-chanceller ; and was elevated to the peerage,
by the title of Baron Thurlow, of Ashfield. In 178B,
he
SUFFOLK.
277
lie was made teller of (he exchequer, and created
Baron Thurlow of Thurlow. He retired in 1793,
and died at Brighton in 1806. As he was never
married, the eldest son of his brother, who had risen
to the see of Durham, succeeded to his title. A few
years ago, his lordship married Miss Bolton, of
Uovent Garden Theatre ; a lady, much celebrated
for her vocal powers. His lordship is known in the
literary world, as the author of various poetical
productions.
Near Barnham is a row of tumuli, which Mr.
Blomefield, the Norfolk historian, conjectures, mark
the scene of the sanguinary engagement, between
king Edward and the Danes, in 870. The village
consists of two parishes, and had once three churches.
Bardwell, near the centre of the hundred, is sup-
posed to have given name to the Berdwell family,
who resided here at the Conquest. The portrait of
Sir William Berdwell, a celebrated soldier, and
lord of the manor in 1434, still remains in the north
window of the church.
Culford, formerly the demesne of Bury abbey, is
the country residence of the Marquis Cornwallis.
T lie small, but neat church of this village, built by
Sir Stephen Fox, contains a monumental bust of
Sir Nathaniel Bacon, Bart.
The church of Elmswell is finely situated on an
eminence, and contains a good monument of Sir
Robert Gardiner, who, the inscription tells us, was
chief-justice in Ireland, and died in 1619, at the
age of 80. The knight is represented as large as
life, in a recumbent posture, with his son kneeling
at his feet.
Euston is pleasantly situated on the Ouse, and
contains the mansion of the Duke of Grafton, called
Euston Hall. This residence is constructed of red
brick, in the ancient style of building, and is only
worthy of notice for the delightful scenery which
surrounds it. A banqucting-house, called the Tem-
ple, was built by the celebrated Kent, on an emi-
nence in the park. It is in the Grecian style of
architecture, and is the most pleasing object in the
demesne.
A moated eminence, the site of an ancient mansion
at Fakenham, is thus mentioned by Bloomfield, the
poet, whose mother was a native of that place : —
The moat remains, the dwelling is no more !
Its name denotes its melancholy fall,
And village children call the spot Burnt Hall.
This village, which is situated in a pleasant vale
watered by the Ouse, is often described by the
author of " The Farmer's Boy."
Honington, an obscure village, will, in future, be
celebrated as the birth-place of the pastoral poet,
Robert Bloomfield, to whom we have just alluded.
His mother kept a school in a cottage, near the
church, where she died in 1804. At the age of 13
or 14, he was received by his brothers, to be in-
structed in their trade of shoe-making. At that
time his knowledge of books was so small, that he
was at a loss to comprehend the meaning of words
vot. iv. — NO. 161.
that commonly occur in the newspaper ; but, by a
process of study unexampled in the annals of lite-
rature, and astonishing to those who witness its traces
in his writings, his diction, like his understanding
and poetical genius, became strong, flowing, andi
perspicuous. His principal production is the " Far-*
mer's Boy," a poem displaying most of the beauties
belonging to that species of composition, strength,
sweetness, harmony of numbers, and simplicity.
He has also published a volume of " Rural Tales,
Ballads and Songs," and several other productions,
which are all possessed of a merit peculiar to his
writings.
Ixworth, the only market-town in this hundred,
seven miles N. E. from Bury St. Edmund's, and
77{ N. E. by N. from London, is a mean place. It
had once a priory of canons regular of St. Augus-
tine, the site of which, a pleasant valley near .the
River Thet, is now occupied by a neat mansion.
At Langham, is the seat of Sir Patrick Blake ;
and, at Little Livermere, is an elegant mansion and
fine demesne belonging to the Duke of Grafton. At
Norton, Henry the Eighth is said to have authorized
a search for gold, of which vestiges were to be
seen a few years since.
The church of Sapiston, like many others in the
county, is only covered with thatch. In the church-
yard lies Mr. Austin, the kinsman and master of
Giles, otherwise Robert Blomfield, " the Farmer's
Boy."
At Stowlangtoft, is a mansion, once the property
and residence of Sir Simonds d'Ewes, one of the
most profound antiquaries of the seventeenth century.
The church, which is a handsome building, stands
in an area of a double trenched gamp ; and, in a
field near it, was found in 1761, a pot filled with
Roman coins of the lower empire.
At Troston, is Troston Hall, the seat of Capel
Lofft, Esq. a gentleman well known in the literary
world, as the patron of Bloomfield, and for a con-
siderable portion of eccentricity. His peculiar taste
has inscribed the trees about his venerable yet cheer-
ful residence, with names of classic celebrity, as
Homer, and Demosthenes ; and others endeared by
private friendship, or revered for superior virtue.
Edward Capel, the uncle of the proprietor of Tros-
ton, and author of "Notes and various Readings of
Shakespeare," was' born at this seat, in 1713. He
spent twenty years in editing a copy of the works
of our great dramatist, which he published in ten
volumes, 8vo.
West Stow Hall, in the parish of the same name,
was formerly the baronial residence of the Brandons,
Dukes of Suffolk, whose arms, with those of the
Princess Mary, wife of Charles Brandon, are yet
seen on the porch. The building is now much re-
duced in size, and occupied as a farm-house.
BOSMERE AND CLAYDON.] — The hundred of BoS-
mere and Claydon is bounded, on the north, by the
mndreds of Stow and Hartismere ; on the east, by
Thredling, Loes, and Carlford ; oil the south, by
4 A Samford
278
SUFFOLK.
Samford, and the liberties of Ipswich ; and, on the i
west, by the hundreds of Stow and Cosford.
At Barliain, is the house of industry for the incor- |
norated hundreds of Bosmere and Claydon, erected,
in 1766, at an expence of 10,0007. In this csta- :
blishmeut, the poor, about 200 in number, are cm- i
ployed in spinning for the manufacturers of Norwich.
An inscription, in the church, records the " virtues"
of a lady, in the following words : —
Helena Filia unica ft Hares Thorns Litle de Bray
in Cumitatu Berk. Armig. visit annos 37 ca Vita,
integritate, Animique immunitate ut Uxor, Muter ct
Arnica inter primos liabcretur. Hac tamcn post
partum 19 (viz. filiorum 13, filiarum ant cm 6)
ct ankdationem annorum plus minus 82 expiravit.
Anno Redemptions 1646. Julii 24.
At Battisford, was formerly an hospital, whose
revenue was, at the Dissolution, granted to the
dither of Sir Thomas Gresham, the munificent
founder of the Royal Exchange. The frame of that
fabric was constructed here, and the timber em-
ployed was the produce of the knight's own estate.
Bramford Hall, the seat of Nathaniel Lee Acton,
Esq. is a handsome modern structure ; the old man-
sion having been reduced, some years ago, to a farm-
house. A remarkable tenure is attached to the
manor. The tenants hold of the lord by a lease of
twenty-one years, renewed, from time to time upon
a fine ; and, in caso. of death or alienation, the new
tenant is admitted to the remainder of the term, so
that the lord derives a greater profit from the lands
than the tenants.
At Bricet, a priory was founded at a very early
period, and richly endowed ; but having been made
a cell to Nobiliac in France, it was suppressed
in the reign of Henry the Fifth, and its revenues
granted to King's College, Cambridge.
Shrublaud Hall, in the parish of Coddenham, is
the residence of Sir William Middleton, Bart. A
manor belonging to the same place, is called the
Vicarage.
Creeling is a name possessed in common, by
Ihree contiguous parishes in this hundred, and a
fourth in that of Stow, which are respectively dis-
tinguished by the adjuncts, All Saints, St. Olave's,
St. Mary, and St. Peter. The two rectories of
Greeting All Saints, and St. Olaye, were united in
1711, and divine service is performed in the church
of the former, which is very ancient. The church
of Creeting St. Mary was not long since taken
down, and discovered to have no foundation.
Crow field Hall once belonged to the family of
Woodhousc ; but is now the property of Sir William
Middleton, who is also lord of the manor.
Helmingham has been for many years the seat
of the ancient and uobje family of Tollemache,
ancestors of the Earl .of Dysart. The hall is a
square building, inclosing a quadrangular court,
and surrounded by a moat. The park, which con-
tains 400 acres, is embellished with fine oak-trees,
and well stocked with deer. In the church, which
is embosomed in wood, a monument, by Nollekens,
has been recently erected to the memory of the late
Countess of Dysart. A very fine peal of bells was
presented to this church, -by the Earl of Dysart, in
the year 1811. The parsonage is a tasteful little
residence, on the verge of the park.
Camden's account of the service by which the
manor of Hemingston was held, is curious. — "Here
Baldwin le Petteur (observe the name) held lands by
serjeantry, for which she was obliged every Christ-
mas-day, to perform before our Lord the King of
England, one sattits, one snfflatus, and one tttimbulm ;
or, as it is read in another place, he held by a saltiis,
a snfflatus, and a pettits ; that is (if I apprehend it
right) he was to dance, make a noise with his cheeks,
and let ."
Needham Market, eight miles N. N. W. from Ips-
wich, anil 74 N. E. from London, the only market
town in this hundred, was formerly a place of con-
siderable note for its woollen manufactures, which
are now declining. Near the town is a lake of.30 or
40 acres, called Bosmere, through which the Gip-
ping has its course ; it abounds with fish, and is said
to be of great depth.
Nettlested was a demesne of tli« Earls of Britanny
from the time of the Conquest till the seventeenth
of Henry the Second, when that family became
extinct. In 1450, it became the property of the
Wentworth family, one of whom was governor of
Calais, in the reign of Mary, when it was surprised
and taken by the French.
At Oft'ton, once stood an ancient castle, which,
tradition says, was built by Ofta. From the same
monarch, the village derived its name.
Stonbam is the name of three villages in this
hundred, which are distinguished by the adjuncts
Aspal, Earl, and Pa-rva ; the first was so called from
being (lie property of the Aspale family, resident at
Broughton Hall, an ancient seat in this parish. The
second was formerly possessed by the Earls of Nor-
folk. Stonham Parva is sometimes called Stonham
Jerningham, from the ancient family of that name,
who were long lords of the manor. — Deerbolts, at
Earl Stonham, is the seat of Smith, Esq.
BLITHING.] — The hundred of Blithing, in the
north-eastern part of the county, is bounded towards
the north by the hundreds of Wangford and Mutford ;
on the west and south, by Hoxne and Plomesgate ;
and its eastern side stretches along the shore of the
German ocean. It contains 48 parishes.
Benacre, formerly the property of the Dacres, j*
now the seat of Sir Thomas Gooch, Bart. In con-
structing a new road at this place, in 1786, a stone
bottle was found, containing upwards of 900 pieces
of silver coin, about the size of a six-pence.
Blithburgh, situated on the Blith, though now a
mean village, was once a flourishing place and of
high antiquity ; as the urns, coins, and other Roman
reliques found there sufficiently demonstrate. Its
fishery was once considerable, and it was the resi-
dence
SUFFOLK.
279
dcnce of some opulent merchants. At this place
was the gaol for the division of Becoles, and
Uere the sessions were formerly held. The first
cause of its decline, was the suppression of the
priory, and subsequently some extensive damages
by fire, which hanished part of the inhabitants ami
ruined others. The present church has been built
nearly four centuries, and presents an appearance
of greater antiquity. Its architecture and orna-
ments are eminently curious ; the former indeed is
much decayed, and ill-repaired, and the minute
parts of the latter have been defaced by a coating
of white-wash ; still enough remains to fix a stain
of stupidity and vandalism upon the authors of such
violation. The numerous windows were once beau-
tified with painted glass and tracery ; but the places
«4' these, as often as they are destroyed, by time or
accident, are supplied by rude masses of brick and
mortar. The sculptured figure of a man, which
once adorned the ceiling, with other carvings, is
suffered to rot on a heap of rubbish in the church-
yard. In the north aisle, is a tomb, said to he that
of Anna, king of the East-Angles, who was slain
in 054 ; and another in the. chancel, is supposed
to liave been erected in memory of Firminus, his
son. . The monarch's tomb is used as a resceptacle
fur the sweepings of the church, and on that of
his son have been raised three clumsy piles of brick,
which occasioned the remark, that, whatever he
might have been alive, lie is now unquestionably a firm
supporter of the church. Near this edifice, are the
ivied remains of a small priory of black canons.
Westwood Lodge, near Blithburgh, commands a
pleasant view of the sea. The farm here is pro-
nounced to be the finest in the county.
The church of Bramfield contains an elegant
monument to the memory of Arthur, third son of
the celebrated Sir Edward Coke, and many tomb-
stones of the ancient families of Robbet and Nelson.
Bramfield Hall, a fine old mansion, the residence
of Thomas Sherlock Gooch, Esq. one of the mem-
bers for the county, is situated near the church, and
about a mile distant, is another seat, formerly the
property of Thomas Neale, Esq. now converted into
a farm-house. An alms-house was endowed by that
gentleman for four single persons, who have each a
room and a rood of land ; and his widow, at her
(letith, bestowed an estate of ten pounds per annum.
Bull-camp, anciently Bald-camp, which signifies
a. bold combat, hand-to-hand, is thought, to have
received its appellation from the obstinate engage-
xnent in 654, between the Mercians and East- Angles,
in which king Anna and his son were slain. The
bouse of industry for the hundred, is situated on a
rising ground in this parish, and was founded in
1764, at an expence of 12,000/. The number of
poor is from 250 to 300, who are employed in manu-
factures of woollen and linen for the use of the house
and for sale.
Covehithe was once a considerable fishing-town,
and had a noble church, of which the south-aisle only
remains, and is used for sacred purposes. — John
Bale, a writer of the sixteenth century, was horn
here, and educated at Jesus College, Cambridge.
Having abjured his religion, which was originally
founded on the Catholic Faith, he was obliged to
the protection of Cromwell, Earl of Essex, for
safety ; and, at his fleath, fled to the Netherlands.
On the accession of Edward the Sixth, he was pro-
moted to the see of Ossory, in Ireland ; but was
obiged to flee at his death ; and, although, after the
death of Queen Mary, he became a prebendary of
Canterbury, never recovered his bishopric. lie died
in 1563.
Dunwich, 4j S. W. by S. from Southwold, and
100 N E. from London, is supposed, from the num-
ber of coins discovered there, to have been a Roman
station. It was certainly a bishopric in the reign
of Sigebert, king of the East-Angles, when Felix,
the Burgundian bishop, was invited thither by that
monarch to promote the conversion of his subjects.
In the time of Henry the Second, it had a mint,
and under Richard the First, its importance was
denoted by a fine of 1000 marks, whilst Ipswich
paid only 200, for supplying the king's enemies with
corn. In the reign of Edward the First, it had
11 ships of war, 18 fair ships, 20 barks or vessels,
and 24 small boats for the home fishery. It sustain-
ed some severe losses in a war with France, but
the primary cause of its decay was the opening of
a port at Blithburgh. It is now a mean village,
though it still retains its market, and the privilege
of sending two members to parliament, which it has
possessed since the commons of England first ac-
quired the right of legislature. The present state
of this place is the cll'ect of the encroachments of
the sea. Seated on a hill of loam and sand, of a
loose texture, it has been gradually undermined,
till, from eight parish churches, three chapels, two
monasteries, and two hospitals which it once pos-
sessed, it is reduced to the remains of one church,
about forty houses, and the miserable relics of its
once noble hospital, which were ruined by the frauds
and prodigality of their superiors. The remains of
a monastery of Grey friars still exist, and, being
covered with ivy, exhibit a picturesque appearance.
St. James's hospital, which was founded for a master
and several leprous brethren and sisters, and splen-
didly endowed, is now the wretched residence of a
few indigent people. The revenues of the other are
as much reduced, and its inmates as ill-supplied
with the means of subsistence. In ancient times,
a forest, called East Wood, extended several miles
S. E. of the town ; but this, with Westwood, con-
tiguous, has been, for many ages, destroyed by the
sea.
Easton Bavent was once a place of some impor-
tance, having a market and a yearly fair. The pro-
montory, known by the name of Easton Ness, tho
Extemio and ¥%%•» of the ancients, was in this parish,
and the most easterly point of the island.
The church of Fordley has been long ruinous ;
its
280
SUFFOLK.
its decay was suffered on account of the nearness
of Middleton church.
At Henham, is the seat of Lord Rous, to whose
ancestors, the place belonged more than three hun-
dred years since. The present proprietor was raised
to the peerage, in 1796, by the title of Baron Rous,
of Dennington.
Haleswortli, situated on the river Blith, is re-
markable for nothing but its large Gothic church,
and a charity-school. The inhabitants are chiefly
employed in spinning, as great quantities of hemp
are produced in the neighbourhood.
Heveningham Hall, near Huntingfield, the seat of
Lord Hunting-field, is one of the finest seats in the
county. The front, about two hundred feet long,
is adorned with Corinthian columns, and the whole
edifice is faced with a composition resembling free-
stone. The park, which is well wooded, is beau-
tified by a fine piece of water, and an avenue of
great length. The interior of the house is embel-
lished by a valuable collection of pictures, chiefly
the works of Dutch and Flemish masters. When
this demesne was the property of Lord Hunsdon,
Queen Elizabeth was entertained by that nobleman,
and is said to have been much delighted with the
chase and other rural pleasures which it afforded.
She admired the timber, which was of great age,
but particularly an oak-tree, near which, tradition
says, she shot a buck : from this circumstance it
was ever after called the Queen's Oak. This hoary
monarch of the woods was, a few years since, much
decayed, but its rugged honours augmented the
veneration excited by its fame and antiquity.
At Leiston are the ruins of an abbey of black
canons, consisting of several subterraneous chapels,
various offices, and a considerable part of the church,
the last appears to have been a handsome structure,
faced with flint and free-stone. The interior was plain
and undecorated, yet massive. A large extent of the
neighbouring fields was inclosed with walls, which
have been demolished for the sake of the materials.
Reydon, westward of Southwold, was formerly
of some importance, and the church is very ancient.
Tradition says, that a bridge over a branch of the
Blith, called Wolsey's bridge, was constructed by
order of the cardinal, in consequence of a promise
which he made, when driving cattle with his father
from these parts to Ipswich, and feeling the incon-
venience of a large circuit, which he was obliged to
make.
At Rumburgh, the remains of a Benedictine
monastery, which was founded soon after the Con-
quest, have been converted into a farm-house. At
8'ibton was also a monastic establishment, of the
Cistercian order, founded about 1150.
Southwold, 30} miles N. E. from Ipswich, and
105| N.E. from London, is pleasantly situated on
an eminence, overlooking the German ocean, and is
almost surrounded by the Blith, which here falls into
the sea. Many privileges have been granted to this
place by successive sovereigns of England. Henry
the Seventh made the town a free borough, to be
governed by two bailiffs, a recorder, and 12 alder-
men, and conferred the privilege of admiralty. These
and other rights and immunities were confirmed by
his son, who also granted others, to the great en-
couragement of trade and navigation. The herring1
fishery was carried on with great spirit, and the
shipping of Southwold exceeded that of all the
neighbouring towns ; but a great fire, happening
in 1659, much lessened its importance, by reducing
many of the most opulent inhabitants to poverty.
The prosperity of Southwold was revived, however,
about the middle of the last century, by an act of
the government for improving the harbour and erect-
ing two piers. The spirit of commerce, thus roused,
was quickened by the construction of docks and
store-houses, and the resort of strangers for the
advantage of bathing which the town affords. The
church of Southwold is large and handsome. Its
steeple, which is 100 feet high, is beautified with
freestone, intermixed with flint of different colours.
The interior is highly ornamented, as are the porch
and 'all the doors. A niche on each side of the
north door contains aji angel in the attitude of
prayer ; and the porch is decorated with Gothic
letters similar to those of an inscription over the
great west window, which runs thus : —
SAT. EDMUND. ORA. p. NOBIS.
Every letter is adorned with a crown, and the whole
is skilfully executed. The fronts of the pews were
decorated with representations of birds, beasts,
satyrs, and human figures ; the ceiling was finely
painted, and, on a skrecn, in the north aisle, were
pourtrayed various figures emblematical of the Holy
Trinity, and the Hierarchy, with the twelve apostles,
and figurative representations of various subjects iu
Holy Writ. On (he cliffs, are two batteries, which
together mount eight guns. On Eye-cliff are the
vestiges of an ancient encampment, which is sup-
posed to have been formed by the Danes, at their
invasion in 1010. A prodigious number of swallows
annually arrive from the continent, at Southwold,
whence they also depart in the autumn. The bay
of Southwold was, on the 28th of May, 167-2, the
scene of an obstinate engagement between the fleets
of Great Britain and Holland. Attached to the
former were 35 French ships, which sheered off before
the battle became general, leaving their allies with
66 ships to oppose the enemy, with 168. The attack
was begun by Bankert, who commanded the van of
the Dutch, and seconded by De Ruyter the Dutch
commander, who engaged the Duke of York ;
meanwhile Van Ghent fell upon the blue, under the
orders of the Earl of Sandwich. After an obstinate
conflict the Duke was forced to abandon his ship,
and the Earl of Sandwich, though he defeated his
first antagonist, found his ship so much damaged
that he advised the captain to desert her — as for
himself, with a few sailors who refused to quit him,
he remained on board, " resolved to defend the ship
to
SUFFOLK.
281
to the last" accordingly he perished, as she blew up
about noon. Sir Joseph Jordan, who now com-
manded the blue, uniting with the red, made an
attack, in which the Dutch Admiral Evertzen was
killed, and De Ruyter wounded ; but Van Ghent's
squadron having rallied, bore down to the relief of
their commanders and saved them from destruction.
In the evening five or six fire-ships were destroyed
by an English maun of war, and the battle continued
till nine at night, when the Dutch vessels made all
the sail they could, and got clear of the English
fleet. The enemy lost three ships and a great num-
ber of men ; and the English, six ships and about
2000 killed and wounded. Among the former were
rear-admiral Sir Fretchville Ilollis, in the Cam-
bridge ; Captain Digby, of the Henry ; Captain
Percy, of the St. George ; Captain Waterworth, of
the Anne ; Sir John Fox, of the Prince ; Captain
Harman, of the Triumph ; Lord Maidstone, Sir
Philip Cartwright, Sir Charles Harbord, and many
other persons of distinction. But the fate of the
gallant Earl of Sandwich was a particular cause of
regret. It seems that the Duke of York had con-
strued some prudential advice which he had offered
into the effects of fear, and had reproached him with
pusillanimity, a treatment which the high spirit of
the Earl could not brook. His body was found a
few days afterwards, and, being recognized by his (
George, was carried to Harwich ; whence it was .
removed to Westminster Abbey, and there solemnly
interred.
Thorington, formerly the property and residence j
of Walter de Norwich, is now the seat of .George
Golding, Esq
Walberswick, now a hamlet of Blithburgh, was
once a place of some importance, and the centre of
a considerable trade. Repeated conflagrations de-
stroyed the houses, and reduced the inhabitants to
poverty. The church was, in its original state, a
superb structure, having three aisles, and a hand-
some steeple, which still remains, more than 90 feet
high. In lUOti, the inhabitants, unable to support
the expence of repairing it, demolished a great part
of this fine edifice, reserving only the south-west
angle, for the exercise of religious offices.
At Wanglbrd, was formerly a priory of Cluniac
monks. The church, built of flint and brick, has
been lately adorned with a steeple and spire.
Westhall was the residence of Edmund Bohun,
Esq. a voluminous writer of the 17th century ; the
most noted of whose works are " a Geographical
Dictionary," and " a History of King James the
Second's Desertion."
Wrentham Hall was built by the family of Brew- i
ster, who purchased the manor in the reign of i
.Edward the Sixth, and who continue to reside there. |
On the north side of the pleasant village of Yox- '
ford, is Cockfield Hall, the seat of Sir Charles
Blois, Bart. This place is also the residence of i
D. E. Davy, Esq. a gentleman of extensive literary ;
and antiquarian research.
VOL. iv. — NO. 161.
BURY.] — The handsome borough and market town
of Bury St. Edmund's, the metropolis of the west-
ern division of the county, is situated in the hundred
• of Thingoe, 26 miles N. W. from Ipswich, and 74{
N. E. by N. from London. It stands on the west
side of the river Bourne, or Lark ; having a charm-
ingly enclosed country on the south and south-west,
and on the north and north-west charming fields ex-
tending into Norfolk ; while on the east the country
is partly open and partly enclosed. From its beauty
and salubrity, it has been denominated the Mont-
pellier of England. The want of wood, however,
detracts from the beauty of the immediately sur-
rounding country ; and the air, though extremely
fine for persons of robust constitutions, is too sharp
for those who enjoy a delicate state of health. Oc-
cupying a rising ground and sandy soil, the streets
are always clean. In 1811, an act of parliament was
obtained, for the purpose of paving, lighting, and
watching the town ; which, including the suburbs,
is about a mile and a quarter broad, from east to
west, and about a mile and a half in length, from
south to north. It is divided into two parishes ; and
is governed by a recorder and twelve capital bur-
gesses, one of whom is annually chosen alderman,
and acts as chief magistrate. Six others are assistant
justices, and one holds the office of coroner. The
remainder of the body corporate consists of twenty-
four common-council men ; and these thirty-six,
persons only, return two members to parliament.
Cainden, Batteley, and others have supposed that
Bury was the Roman station, denominated Villa
Faustina. Previously, however, to its receiving its
appellation, it was called by the Saxons Beo/deric's-
worth ; that is to say, the seat, mansion, or resi-
dence of Beoderic. Sigbright, fifth monarch of the
East Angles, having embraced the Christian faith
in France, founded here about the year 638, a
Christian church and monastery, which was deno-
minated, the monastery of St. Mary at Beoderic-
worth. Abbo, a learned French monk, states that
the town obtained this appellation from having been
the property of a distinguished person named Beo-
derie, who at his death bequeathed it to King Ed-
mund, the martyr. Of this king, who succeeded
his uncle Offa, king of the East Angles, in 855,
very little is known. The events of his life, as re-
corded by the monkish writers, are either a tissue
of fictions, or at least are so distorted by them, that
it is impossible to distinguish truth from falsehood ;
but, as the history of Edmund is inseparably con-
nected with that of the town, we must, from neces-
sity repeat some of these fables. — Edmund is said
to have been crowned, either at Bury or at Bures,
by Humbert, bishop of Hulm, on the 25th of Decem-
ber 855, having then completed the 15th year of his
age. The commencement of his misfortunes origi-
nated in the invasion of the Danes, who at length
deprived him of his kingdom and his life. In 865,
these barbarians proceeded southward, from York-
shire, in a torrent which destroyed every vestige of
4 B civilization-
28*
SUFFOLK.
civilization. In 870 they appear to have reached
East Anglia, where Inguar gained possession of
Thetfcml, King Edmund's capital. The latter col-
lected his forces and marched to oppose the invaders.
The hostile armies met near Thetford, and after an
engagement maintained for a whole day, with the
most determined courage and great slaughter on
both sides, victory remained undecided. The pious
king was so extremely affected by the death of so
many martyrs, who had shed their blood in defence
of the Christian faith, and the miserable end of so
many unconverted infidels, that he retired in the
night to Eglesdene. Hither he was soon followed by !
an embassy from Inguar, who was soon after the
battle joined by his brother Hubba, with ten thou-
sand fresh troops. The Danish chieftain proposed,
that he should become his vassal, and divide with
him his treasures and dominions. Bishop Humbert
earnestly recommended his compliance with this
imperious command ; but Edmund returned for
answer, that he would never submit to a pagan. At
the same time, out of tenderness for his subjects he
resolved to make no farther resistance, and accord-
ingly surrendered without a struggle to the superior
force sent against him by Inguar and Hubba. Still
refusing to accede to the terms of the conquerors, he
•was bound to a tree, his body was pierced with ar-
rows, and his head cut off, and thrown contemptu-
ously into the thickest part of a neighbouring wood.
Bishop Humbert, suffered at the same time. The
Danes retired ; and " the East Angles, prompted
by affection to their late sovereign, assembled to pay
the last duties to his remains. The body was soon
discovered and conveyed to Hoxne, but the head
could no where be found. His faithful subjects then
divided themselves into small parties, to explore the
adjacent wood. Here some of them, being separated
from their companions, cried out, ' Where are you ?'
Tbe head immediately replied 'Here! here! here!'
and Lydgate tells us, that it,
Never ceased of al that longe clay,
So for to crye tyl they kam where he laye.
Arriving at the spot whence the voice proceeded,
they found a wolf, holding the head between his fore-
feet. The animal politely delivered up his charge,
which, the moment it came in contact with the body,
returned so exactly to its former place, that the
juncture was not visible except when closely exa-
mined. The wolf remained a harmless spectator of
the scene ; and, after gravely attending the funeral
at Hoxne, peaceably retired to his native woods.
This happened about forty days after the deatli of
the saint. The arms of the town still commemorate
the brute protector of "the royal martyr's head ;
which also furnished ancient artists with a favourite
subject for the exercise of their talents. For thirty-
three years the body of the king, buried in the earth,
lay neglected in the obscure chapel of Hoxne. At
length, various miracles were reported to have been
performed at Edmund's grare. A large church was
consequently constructed of wood at Beodricsworth,
and thither the body, found perfect and uncorrnpted,
'and with the head re-united to it, was removed in
903. Some ecclesiastics immediately devoted them-
selves to the monastic life under the protection of the
royal saint and martyr ; their number increased, and,
about 925, they were incorporated into a college of
priests. The inhabitants, perceiving the advantages
likely to accrue from the increasing celebrity of St.
Edmund's relics, chose him for their titular saintj
and began to call the place after his name." King
Atlielstan, besides other donations, presented to the
church of St. Edmund a copy of the Evangelists,
a gift of great value in those days. Edmund, sou
of Edward the Elder, gave the monks a jurisdic-
tion over the whole town, and one mile round it.
About this time commenced the disputes between
the established clergy, and the monks or regulars.
The latter dispossessed the former of their most
valuable establishments. The increasing fame and
wealth of the convent of St. Edmund had not escaped
the notice of the monks, who gained over the bishop
of the diocese ; and in 990 procured the appointment
of Ailwin, one of their number, to be the guardian
of the body of the saint. — Sweyn, king of Denmark,
burnt and plundersd Bury in 1010 ; but, previously
to this, Ailwin, fearful lest his sacred charge should
suffer insult and injury from the Danes, conveyed it
to London, where it remained three years. Sweyn's
sudden death happening soon afterwards, it was
represented as a punishment, inflicted by the angry
saint. Being surrounded one evening, by his nobles
and officers, he suddenly exclaimed : " I am struck
by St. Edmund !" and though the hand which in-
flicted the wound was not seen, he languished only
till the next morning, and then expired in torments.
The report of this miraculous interposition was highly
advantageous to the convent; the people imposed on
themselves a voluntary tax of four-pence for every
carucate of land in the diocese, which they offered
to the honour of the saint and martyr, as an acknow-
ledgement of their gratitude and devotion. — Canute
is said to have been so terrified by the vengeance of
Edmund, that to expiate his father's crimes, and
propitiate the angry saint, he took the monastery of
Bury under his special protection. Ailwin, in 1020,
consecrated bishop of Hulm,, ejected the secular
clergy from this convent, and supplied their places
with twelve Benedictine monks. At the snrne time
he exempted the convent, and all within its jurisdic-
tion, from episcopal authority, which was to be ex-
ercised by the abbot only, and four crosses wer<
erected to fix with accuracy the boundary of his
jurisdiction. The following year the bishop laid tin
foundation of a magnificent church, the expenses o
which were defrayed by the voluntary tax upon Iain
above-mentioned, and by the contributions of tb<
pious. — Canute, by royal charter, confirmed al
former grants and privileges to the abbot and con
vent, aud conferred several new ones. Of these
th
SUFFOLK.
283
the most important was the right of reserving, for
their own use, that proportion of the tax called
Danegeld, levied upon the inhabitants of the town.
These gifts were settled on the abbey, with a fearful
curse on such as should molest the monks in the
possession of them. — In 1032, the new church, being
finished, was consecrated by Athelnorth, archbishop
of Canterbury. The body of the royal martyr was
deposited in a splendid shrine, adorned with jewels
and costly -ornaments ; and Canute himself repair-
ing hither to perform his devotions, offered his crown
at the tomb of the saint. Edward the Confessor
granted to the abbot and convent the town of
Mildenhall, with its produce and inhabitants, the
royalties of eight hundreds, together with the
lialf hundred of Thingoe, and also those of all the
villages, situated in those eight hundreds and a
half, which they previously possessed. He like-
wise conferred the privilege of coining at a mint
established within the precinct of the monastery.
The monks now resolved to provide a still more
magnificent receptacle for the body of their saint
than any in which it had hitherto been deposited.
The church built by Ailwin was demolished, and
another was erected of hewn stone, the materials
for which structure were brought, by the permission
of William the Conqueror, from Barnack, in Nor-
thamptonshire ; and it was in a state of sufficient
forwardness to receive the sacred remains in 1095.
This was the last removal, as the church now erected
continued to exist till the period of the Dissolution. —
.Leland says, " a city more neatly seated the sun
never saw, so curiously doth it hang upon a gentle
descent, with n little river on the east side ; nor a
monastery more noble, whether one considers its
endowments, largeness, or unparalleled magnifi-
cence. One might even think the monastery alone
a city ; so many gates it has, some whereof are
brass : so many towers and a church, than which
nothing can be more magnificent ; as appendages to
which there are three more, of admirable beauty and
worknianship,in the same church-yard. "—The abbey
church was 505 feet in length, the transept 212, and
the west front 240. This' Inst had two large side-
chapels, St. Faith's and St. Catharine's, one on.the
north- west, and the other on the south-west, and, at
each end, an octagon tower, thirty feet each way.
The shrine of (he saint was preserved in a semi-
circular chapel, at the east end ; and on the north
side of the choir was that of St. Mary, eighty feet
long, and forty-two broad ; and St. Mary in cryptis
was 100 feet in length, eighty in breadth, and sup-
ported by twenty-four pillars. Besides the dome,
there was a high west tower over the middle aisle,
and the whole fabric is supposetl to have been equal,
in some respects, in grandeur, to St. Peter's at Rome.
— The abbey was governed by an abbot, who had
several great officers under him, as a prior, sub-prior,
sacrist, and others ; and in its most prosperous state
there were eighty monks, fifteen -chaplains, and one
hundred and eleven servants, attending within its
walls. It had three grand gates for entrance ; and
its lofty walls enclosed three other churches, besides
the abbey church, several chapels, the cloisters, and
offices of every kind. The abbot enjoyed all the
spiritual and temporal privileges ot the mitred abbots,
besides other important exclusive immunities. Of
the latter, was the exemption from the ecclesiastical
authority of the diocesan, so that neither the Roman
pontiff, nor his legate, could exercise any spiritual
power, within the limits of the abbot's jurisdiction.
The abbot was a spiritual parliamentary baron ; he
held synods in his own chapter-house, and appoint-
ed the parocial clergy of the town. He possessed
the power of trying and determining, by his high-
steward, all causes within the franchise or liberty ;
and in the town, and a mile round, he had the
authority of chief magistrate, and of inflicting capi-
tal punishment. No officer of the king could, without
his permission, hold a court, or execute any office
at Bury. As lord of the town, he claimed the right
of appointing the alderman, though it was after-
wards agreed, that the other burgesses, composing;
the- corporation, should enjoy the privilege of elect-
ing that officer. This supreme authority, exercised
by the abbot, was a cause of frequent dissention.
between him and the inhabitants. " In 1327, the
townsmen, headed by their alderman and chief
burgesses, and having collected 20,000 persons
from the neighbouring towns and villages, made an
attack upon the monastery and its possessions, and,
threatened the total destruction of the establishment.
Having demolished the gates, doors, and windows,
and beaten and wounded the monks and servants,
they broke open the chests and coffers, out of which
they took great quantities of rich plate, books, vest-
ments, and other valuables, besides five hundred
pounds in ready money, and three thousand Hoi-ins.
They also carried away three charters of Canute,
four of Hardicanute, one of Edward the Confessor,
two. of Henry the First, three of Henry the Third,
twelve papal, bulls, with several deeds, written
obligations and acknowledgments for money due to
the convent. Great part of the monastery was re-
duced to ashes, and many of the manors and granges
belonging to it in Bury and its vicinity, shared the
same fate. The abbot being at this time in London,
the rioters seized and confined Peter. Clopton, the
prior, and about twenty of the monks, whom they
afterwards compelled, in the name of the whole
chapter of the convent, to execute, under the capi-
tular seal, a deed, constituting the burgesses a guild
or corporation. They also forced them to sign an
obligation for the payment of ten thousand pounds
to certain of the townsmen, to discharge them from
all debts due to the monastery, and to engage not
to proceed against them at law for any damage done
to the monastery. The king being informed of these
transactions, a military force was sent, to suppress
the disturbance. The alderman and. twenty-four of
the burgesses were imprisoned ; thirty carts full of
the rioters were taken prisoners to Norwich; nine-
teen"
284
SUFFOLK.
teen of the most notorious offenders were executed,
and one was pressed to death, because he refused to
put himself upon his trial. Thirty-two parochial
clergymen were convicted as abettors. The enqui-
ries, that arose out of this affair, occupied nearly five
years, the final decision being given by Edward the
Third, in 1332. The justices commissioned to in-
vestigate the amount of the damages, sustained by
the abbey, had estimated them at the enormous sum
of 140,000/. ; but, at the king's request, the abbot
remitted tto the offenders 122,333/. Qs. 8d. and, at
length, forgave them the remainder, OH condition of
their future good behaviour. All the deeds and
charters, taken from the monastery, were to be re-
stored ; all the instruments and obligations, obtained
by force, were declared null and avoid, and were
to be delivered up to the abbot. Fox states, that
Berton, the alderman, Herling, thirty- two priests,
thirteen women, and 138 other persons of the town,
were outlawed ; and that some of these, to revenge
the abbot's breach of promise, surprised him at the
manor of Chevington. Having hound and shaved
him, they conveyed him to London, and thence
over the sea into Brabant, where they kept him a
prisoner. He was at length rescued by his friends,
who had discovered the place of his confinement."
— The monastery remained 519 years in the posses-
sion of the Benedictine monks, and during that time
was governed by thirty-three abbots. Its revenues
. were valued, at the Dissolution, by the commissioners,
at 2336/. 16s. An intelligent writer, however, of
the last century, calculates that all the possessions
and perquisites of this abbey would at that time
(1725) be worth not less than 200,000/. per annum.
When Henry the Eighth resolved to replenish his
exhausted treasury, by seizing the possessions of
the monastic establishments, the abbey of Bury was
included in the general destruction. On the 4th of
November, 1539, the abbot and his brethren were
compelled to surrender the monastery and all its
possessions to his majesty ; and driven from their
splendid mansion and ample revenues, to subsist
upon a slight allowance.
We must not close our sketch of this famous
monastery, without mentioning the singular cere-
mony of the procession of the white bull. " The
sacrist of the monastery, as often as he let the lands
near the town then and still called Haberdon, annex-
ed this condition, that the tenant should provide a
white bull, whenever a matron of rank, or any other,
should come out of devotion, or in consequence of
a vow, to make the oblations of the white bull, as
they were denominated, at the shrine of St. Kdmund.
On this occasion, the animal, adorned with ribbons
and garlands, was brought to the south gate of the
monastery, and led along Church-gate, Guildhall,
and Abbey-gate streets, to the great west gate, the
lady all the while keeping close to him, and the
monks and people forming a numerous cavalcade.
Here the procession ended ; the animal was con-
ducted back to his pasture, while the lady repaired
to St. Edmund's shrine to make her oblations, as a
certain consequence of which, she was soon to be-
come a mother. As foreign ladies, desirous of issue,
might have found it inconvenient to repair hither in
person, to assist at these ceremonies, they were cer-
tain to prove equally efficacious, if performed by
proxy."
Previously to the Dissolution, Bury contained an
inferior monastic establishment of Grey friars, or
Franciscans. — At the Reformation, there were in
Bury, five hospitals, St. Saviour's at North-gate, St.
Peter's at Risby-gate, St. John's at South-gate,
St. Stephen's and St. Nicholas' at East-gate ; one
college, called Jesus College, in College street, con-
sisting of a warden, and six associates, and the fol-
lowing chapels, whose names and situations are yet
known, though the buildings have long been demo-
lished : St. Mary's, at East-gate bridge, another at
West-gate, and a third at Risby-gate ; St. Michael's,
in the Infirmary ; St. Andrew's, in the cemetery of
the monks ; St. John's, in the hill ; and St. John's
ad foutem ; St. Anne's in cryptis ; St. Thomas's,
near St. Saviour's ; St. Lawrence's, in the court-
yard ; St. Gyles's, near the nave of the church ; St.
Petronilla's, within the South-gate ; St. Botolph's,
within South-gate street ; St. Edmund's, or Round
chapel in the church-yard ; and St. Denis's, besides
the hermitage, at West-gate, and thirteen other
chapels, the sites of which are unknown. Most of
these were amply endowed, and together afforded
subsistence and employment to forty or fifty eccle-
siastics, under a deacon and archdeacon. — During
the prosperity of the abbey, it comprehended within
its precincts, besides the conventual church, three
others, St. Margaret's, St. Mary's, and St. James's.
The former has long ceased to be appropriated to
religious purposes, and is now used as the town-
hall. The others are the churches of the two parishes
into which Bury is divided. — St. Mary's, first erected
in 1005, began to be rebuilt in its present stute, in
1424, and was finished about 1433. This structure
is 139 feet long, exclusive of the chancel, and t>7f
in breadth ; the chancel is 74 feet by tt8. It is
divided into three aisles, separated from each other
by two rows of slender and elegant columns. The
roof of the uave, constructed in France, and put
together after it was brought to England, is admired
for its lightness and elegance. Previously to the
Reformation, St. Mary's was much distinguished
for its numerous altars, images, and pictures. At
the dissolution of the abbey, this church, as well as
St. James's was included in the general system
of plunder, both of them being stripped of plate
and other ornaments, then valued at about 480/.
Both likewise contained numerous inscriptions, and
effigies in brass ; but these were, in 1644, torn off
by the church-wardens, and sold for their private
emolument. — On the north side of the communiun-
tnble in St. Mary's church, was formerly a plain
altar,
SUFFOLK.
28-5
altar-monument for Mary Tudor, third daughter of
king- Henry the Seventh.* — In the middle of the
chancel, lies interred John Reeve, who became
abbot of Bury in loll, and was obliged to sur-
render the abbey in 1539, on which, an annuity of
500 marks was assigned him. — At the east end of
the south-aisle, a well executed altar-monument, for
John Baret, who died in 1643, exhibits a striking-
proof of the skill of our ancient artists, in the dura-
bility of the red and black substances, with which
the letters, engraven in different parts, were filled
up. — On the south side of the chancel, beneath the
last arch, towards the east, is a large altar-monu-
ment, covering the remains of Sir Thomas Drury,
privy-counsellor to Henry VII. and VIII. Oppo-
site to this monument, is that of Sir William Carew,
who died in 1501, and his wife, in 1525. Joseph
Weld, Esq. Serjeant at law, recorder, and one of
the representatives of this town in parliament, is
interred in the crypt, at the east end of the chancel.
— This church sustained considerable injury from
lightning, during a violent storm, on the 1st of
August, 1766.
St. James's church was originally built about the
year 1200. The present structure was not finished
till the Reformation, when Edward the Sixth gave
200/. to compleat it. Constructed of free-stone, it
is a fine Gothic building, and the west end is par-
ticularly beautiful. The windows were originally
adorned with painted glass, of which there are yet
some remains. The length of St. James's church
is 137 feet, its breadth, 69 ; and the chancel is 56
feet 8, by 27 feet 5 inches. — Against the wall in
the south aisle, are two elegant monuments inclosed
with iron railing, one of them to the Right Hon.
James Reynolds, chief baron of the court of ex-
chequer, who died in 1738, in his 53d year ; and
the other to Mary his wife. — The Church-gate,
which though thirty feet distant from this edifice,
serves as a steeple to it, is considered to be one of
the noblest specimens of what is denominated Saxon
architecture, in the kingdom. Some are of opinion,
that it was erected in the reign of William the
Conqueror. It stands opposite to the west end of
the abbey church ; to which it served as a magni-
ficent portal. It is 80 feet in height, of a quadran-
gular figure, and remarkable for the simple plain-
ness and solidity of its construction. The stone, of
* This princess, who honoured the town of !3ury with her
especial favour and protection, had, by her beauty and accom-
plishments, won the heart of the Duke of Suffolk, one of the
most distinguished characters at the court of Henry the Eighth.
The shining qualities of the duke had produced a reciprocal
attachment on the part of the princess; but policy, and the
etiquette of courts, forbade their union, and in 1514, consigned
the young and beautiful Mary to the arms of the aged and
infirm Louis XI I. of l-Vance. To that country she was accord-
ingly sent, with a magnificent retinue; and at the tournaments
held in celebration of the marriage, the Duke of Suffolk signa-
lized himself above all his competitors, for dexterity, gallantry,
and valour. This unnatural union was not of long duration ;
»n the death of the French monarch, the duke was sent to con-
V01» IV. — NO. 161.,
which it is built, abounds with small shells, which,
in their natural state, are extremely brittle and
perishable. In their bed, they have acquired such
hardness, as to resist the injuries of seven'centuries,
even when partly laid bare by the crumbling away
of the softer gritty particles of the stone- A chapel
of Jesus was originally intended to have occupied the
space between St. James's church, and this tower.
—On the west side of the Church-gate, near the
foundation, are two curious basso relievos in stone.
That on the left, represents mankind in their fallen
state, under the dominion of Satan, by the figures
of our first parents with a serpent twined round
them, and the Devil, in the back ground, insulting
Adam. The other, emblematic of the deliverance
of nian from his bondage, exhibits God the Father
with flowing hair, and a long parted beard, sitting
triumphantly within a circle, surrounded by cheru-
bim. This piece of sculpture, which appears to be
of considerable antiquity, is in good preservation,
except that the principal figure has lost the right
hand. The capitals of some of the pillars in the
interior of this gateway, also exhibit grotesque
figures, which appear to have formed part of the
original building. — This venerable edifice has suf-
fered greatly from the corroding hand of time.
The two church-yards, conjoined, are kept in ex-
cellent order : an alley of lofty poplars running dia-
gonally across them, forms a pleasant promenade.
Nearly in the centre is a small plot of ground
inclosed with high iron railing, and planted with
trees of different kinds. In this place is the recep-
tacle, provided by the late James Pink, Esq. banker
of Bury, for himself and his family. Within the
same inclosure, is a plain upright stone, terminating
in a pyramid, with the figure of a cross carved upon,
it, and underneath the following inscription : "Here
lies interred the body of Mary Singleton, a young
maiden of this parish, aged nine years, born of
Roman Catholic parents, and virtuously brought
up ; who, being in the act of prayer, repeating her
vespers, was instantaneously killed by a flash of
lightning, Aug. 16. 1785." — The remains of the
west end of St. Edmund's church, which bound the
church-yard on one side, at present exhibit a sin-
gular and motley spectacle. One of the octagon
towers which formerly terminated each end, is-
still standing, and has been converted into a stable.
duct the princess back to her native country, where soon after
her arrival, she, in 1517, bestowed her hand on the object of
her first affection. This princess, dying at Westhorpe, in this
county, in 1533, was first interred in the great church of the
monastery, on the dissolution of which, her remains were re-
moved hither. Her tomb was simple and unadorned ; it was
for some time supposed to be only a cenotaph, but on opening
it in 1731, a covering of lead, evidently inclosing a human
body, was found with this inscription on the breast : Mury,
<siu.ec n i if France, 1533. Notwithstanding this discovery, the
tomb continued without any external memorial of the rank of
the person deposited beneath it, till 1758, when Dr. Symond;,
of Bury, had it repaired at disown expence, and a marble tablet
inserted, with an inscription, recording the above particulars.
4 c Three
280
SUFFOLK.
Three arches, once (he entrances to the three aisles,
have been filled up with modern buildings, and con-
verted into as many neat bouses, while the interme-
diate rugged portions of the original massive wall,
which is supposed to have been once faced with
marble, have braved the ravages of not much less
than three centuries. — " In the path-way, between
the two churches, an atrocious attempt was made,
in 1721, by Arundel Coke, Esq. barrister, with the
assistance of one Woodbourne, a hired assassin, to
murder his brother-in-law, Edward Crisp, Esq. in
the hope of possessing his property. He had invited
him, his wife, and family, to supper, und at night, on
Kretence of going to see a mutual friend, he led
im into the church-yard, where, on a given signal,
Woodbourne rushed upon Mr. Crisp, and cut his
Lead and face in a terrible manner, with a hedging-
bill. Leaving him on the ground for dead, Coke
returned to the company, as if nothing had happened.
Mr. Crisp, however, was not killed, and on recover-
ing himself, mustered sufficient strength to crawl
back to the house of this inhuman relative, where
his appearance, so cruelly mangled and covered with
blood, excited the utmost horror and amazement,
' and confounded the author of the barbarous deed.
It was not long before he was discovered, and with
his accomplice brought to trial, on the statute for
defacing and dismembering, called the Coventry act.
Mr. Crisp having survived this outrage, Coke was
so good a lawyer, and so hardened a villain, as to
hope to save himself by pleading that he intended
not to deface, but to kill. This justification, little
inferior in atrocity to the crime itself, availed him
nothing ; sentence of death was passed upon him,
and the partner of his guilt ;" and the law took its
due course. — In the church-yard, stands Clopton's
hospital, a handsome brick building, with projecting
•wings, founded and endowed in 1730, agreeably to
the will of the late Poley Clopton, M.D. as an asy-
lum for six poor men, and as many women, three of
either sex out of each parish. — On the same side of
the church-yard with the hospital, is a neat new
building, the residence of John Benjafield, Esq.
On the opposite side stands the shire hall, or sessions
house, where the assizes for the county are held. It
is a building of modern erection, on the site of the
ancient church of St. Margaret, and contains two
convenient courts, for criminal and civil causes.
The grand abbey-gate opened into the great
court-yard, in front of the abbot's palace. It is the
only relic now left to attest the former magnificence
of this establishment. Upon the destruction of the
original entrance to the abbey, in the assault of the
townsmen, in 1327, this gate was erected upon a
plan, combining elegance with utility. Its form
approaches a square, being forty-one feet by fifty,
and sixty-two in height. The architecture is of the
best period of the Gothic style. This gate, which
is eminently entitled to notice, opens into the abbey
grounds, still surrounded with the ancient lofty wall,
and containing some massive detached fragments of
the magnificent edifices, which once occupied part
of their site. In the garden, included within this
precinct, specimens of various pieces of antiquity
have, at different times, been found.
In the conventual church were interred many per-
sons of high distinction ; and many celebrated inha-
bitants of the monastery were also buried here. —
In 1772, some labourers, employed in breaking up
a part of the ruins, discovered a leaden coffin, which
had been enclosed in an oaken case, then quite de»
cayed. " It contained an embalmed body, fresh and
entire as at the time of interment, surrounded by a
kind of pickle, and the face covered with a cere-
cloth. The features, the nails of the fingers and
toes, and the hair, which was brown, with some
mixture of grey, appeared as perfect as ever. A
surgeon examined the body, and made an incision
on the breast ; the flesh cut as firm as that of a
living subject, and there was even an appearance
of blood. The skull was sawed in pieces, and the
brain, though wasted, was found inclosed in its
proper membrane. The corpse was not in the least
offensive, but, on being exposed to the air, it soon
became putrid. The labourers, for the sake of the
lead, removed the body from its receptacle, and
threw it among the rubbish. It was soon ascertained,
however, that the corpse was the remains of Thomas
Beaufort, son of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancas-
ter, by his third duchess, lady Catharine Swinford,
grandson of king Edward the Third, half-brother
to Henry the Fourth, by whom he was created
Duke of Exeter, knight of the garter, admiral and
governor of Calais, and lord high chancellor of
England. On this discovery, the mangled remains
were enclosed in a strong oaken coffin, and buried
at the foot of the large north-east pillar, which for-
merly assisted to support the belfry."
The Guildhall gives name to the street in which
it stands. In the chamber over the entrance, the
archives of the town are kept. Here the town
sessions are held, &c.
Abbot Sampson, in 1198, erected a school-house,
and settled a stipend on the master, who was re-
quired to give gratuitous instruction to forty poor
hoys. This building stood near the present shire-hall,
and the street received from it the name of School-
hall- street, which it still retains. The free-grammar
school, founded by Edward the Sixth, seems to have
been a revival of the former institution. Its original
situation was in East- gate-street ; but a new school-
house was creeled in North-gate-street, by public
contribution. The bust of the founder stands over
the door, in the front of the building. There are
forty scholars on the foundation, and it is free for all
the sons of towns-people, or inhabitants. The num-
ber of pupils of the latter class amounts to about
eighty. This seminary is superintended by an upper
and under master, and adjoining to the school is a
handsome house for the former. — Here also are
three charity schools. In one of these forty boys,
and iu the two others, fifty girls, are clothed and
instructed
SUFFOLK.
287
instructed in the English language. Besides col-
lections and occasional gifts, there is a settled fund
of 70/. per annum towards defraying the expences
of these establishments. A school on the plan of
Mr. Lancaster was opened in 1811, in College street,
and about 200 poor boys were admitted.
The Theatre, built in 1780, on the site of the old
market cross, not being found sufficiently large or
commodious, a piece of ground was bought, in the
winter of 1818, for the purpose of building a new
cue, which is now in progress. — On the Hog-hill,
or Beast-market, stands the common bridewell, for-
merly a Jewish synagogue, in old writings, called
Moysellall. The walls are of great solidity, faced
with stone, and the whole is built upon arches. This
structure is conjectured to be of not much later date
than the Conquest. — At the upper side of the mar-
ket are the Wool-halls, where great quantities of
wool used to be annually deposited, when that article
was the principal source of employment of the poorer
inhabitants of Bury, and its vicinity. — In Church-
gate street, is a meeting-house for the dissenters,
and, in Whiting street, another for Independents.
The Quakers have a neat place of worship in the
Long Brakeland. — At the south side of the Angel
Hill, stand the assembly rooms, of simple exterior,
erected a few years ago. The ball-room is well
proportioned, seventy six feet in length, forty-fivein
breadth, and twenty-nine feet hfgh. Adjoining to
it is an apartment, used as a card and supper-room,
thirty-seven feet by twenty-four ; and the building
contains also a subscription news-room. The three
balls held annually, during the great fair in October,
are, in general, attended by great numbers of persons,
of the first rank and fashion ; as are also the four
or five winter balls ; but trades-people, however
respectable and opulent, are rigorously excluded.
It has been universally remarked, that there is not
perhaps a town in the kingdom where the pride of
birth, even though conjoined with poverty, is so
tenaciously and so ridiculously maintained as at
Bury ; and, what is still infinitely more ridiculous,
the very trades-people are said to be divided into
classes, the higher of which scarcely condescends
to associate with those of the class beneath !
The Suffolk Public Library, formed by the union
of two libraries, the one instituted in 1790, and the
other in 1705, is situated in Abbey-gate street. It
embraces many works of first-rate importance and
utility. The number of subscribers is about one
hundred and fifty, and the sum expended annually
in new publications, amounts to about 1'20/.
The Angel Inn, one of the most conspicuous
buildings in the town, stands on the west side of
the Angel-hill. The vaults underneath it are sup-
posed to have formerly belonged to the abbey, and
to have once had a subterraneous communication
with that establishment.
A mile from the centre of the town, stands the
new gaol, which, in Mr. Buxton's recently published
and very popular pamphlet, on prison discipline, is
spoken of in terms of the highest praise, for situa-
tion, construction, and management. " This gaol,
which has a neat stone front, wrought in rustic,
was completed in 1805. The buildings are inclosed
by a boundary wall, twenty feet high, of an irregular
octagon form, the diameter being two hundred and
ninety-two feet each, and the other four, seventy feet
and a half. The entrance is the turnkey's lodge, on
the lead flat of which executions are performed. The
keeper's house, also an irregular octagon' building,
is situated in the centre of the prison, raised six
steps above the level of the other buildings, and
so placed that all the court-yards as well as the
entrance to the gaol are under constant inspection.
The prison consists of four wings sixty-nine feet
by thirty-two; three of these are divided by a par-
tition wall along the centre, and the fourth is parted
into three divisions ; by which means the different
classes of prisoners are cut off from all communi-
cation with each other. The chapel is in the centre
of the keeper's house, up one pair of stairs ; stone
galleries lead to it from the several wings, and it is
partitioned off, so that each class is separated, the
same as in the prison1" At the early part of the
present year (1819) it was determined, at the ses-
sions, that the prison should be enlarged, by the
addition of some new buildings, to facilitate the im-
portant object of giving employment to the respec-
tive prisoners. — The House of Correction, nearly
adjoining to the gaol, is in some measure consolidated
with that establishment. It is bounded by a sepa-
rate wall, inclosing about an acre of ground, and
the prison stands in the centre. This is a square
building, having the keeper's house in front, and
contains two divisions, which, with the nine in the
gaol, make eleven in all. These are appropriated
according to the following arrangement : 1, and '2,
Male debtors. 3. King's evidence, and occasionally
other prisoners. 4. Convicted of misdemeanors. 5.
Transports, and convicted of atrocious felonies. 6.
For trial for atrocious felonies. 7. For trial for small
offences. 8. Female debtors. 9. Female felons for
trial. 10. Females convicted of misdemeanors. 11.
Females convicted of felonies. — The earnings of the
prisoners employed by the county are thus divided :
two-fifths to the county, one-fifth to the governor,
and two-fifths to the prisoner, one to be paid weekly,
and the remainder on discharge. Their occupations
are grinding of corn, and spinning of wool. The
keeper of the gaol and house of correction has a
salary of three hundred pounds per annum, beside*
perquisites and fees, and they have a chaplain and
a surgeon, with a yearly salary of sixty pounds each.
Mr. Nield, who visited most of our prisons, about
the year, we believe, 1805, says : " in the appoint-
ment of a gaoler, I consider the county particularly
fortunate in their choice of Mr. Orridge ; who, to
great abilities, unites firmness and humanity in the
discharge of his important trust." Mr. Orridge still
holds his office, with, if possible, increased esteem.
In the vicinity of Bury, an elegant seat was built
288
SUFFOLK.
in 1773, by John Symonds, LL.D. professor of
modern history and languages, in the university
of Cambridge, who gave it the appellation of St.
Edmund's Hill, from the beautiful eminence on
which it stands. — A little to the southward of the
town, a brick edifice, with two small detached build-
ings was erected subsequently to the commencement
of the late war, as a magazine foirarms and ammu-
nition.—Bury had five gates till about fifty years
ago, when they were all taken down, to afford a
more convenient passage for carriages. At each of
these gates was formerly an hospital, or some reli-
gious foundation. Beyond the north gate, on the
east side, and contiguous to the Thetford road, are
the rums of St. Saviour's Hospital, the most cele-
brated in Bury, which must have been a very ex-
tensive building, if, as it is said, the parliament
assembled here, in 1446. Not far from the east
gate of the abbey, stood St. Nicholas' hospital, some
remains of which are yet to be seen, converted into
a farm-house. Just without the South gate was the
hospital of St. Petronilla ; the chapel of which, still
pretty entire, is now used as a malt-house. At the
West-gate, formerly stood Our Lady's chapel, and
a hermitage, now a cow-house. — Close to Risby-
gate was formerly a chantry, now the Cock public-
house. At a small distance, is an octangular stone,
the pedestal of a cross. About the year 1677, the
cavity at the top, being filled with water, the coun-
try-people who resorted to Bury-market, then held
without Risby-gate, because the small-pox raged in
the town, were accustomed to wash their money,
lest it should convey the infection to the neighbour-
ing villages. — A religious establishment, called Jesus
College, in College-street, was founded by Edward
the Fourth. It is now converted into a work-house.
— The Vine-field, eastward of Bury, commands a
charming view of the town. This spot derives its
name from the vineyard belonging to the abbey,
which was situated on this declivity.
The river Larke has been rendered navigable to
within a mile of Bury ; but the inhabitants derive
little benefit from it, in proportion to what they
might receive from its extension. Various plans
have been, and still are, in contemplation, to effect
this object ; but the clashing of individual interests,
is likely to prevent any solid advantage from being
obtained.
James the First, in 1606, granted this town a
charter of incorporation, with numerous extensive
privileges. — The donations 1'or public and charitable
purposes, are very considerable.
The September fair usually continues three weeks.
Its charter was granted to the abbot in 1272, and
it was formerly one of the most celebrated marts in
the kingdom. It was then held, as it is now, on the
Angel-hill, where rows of booths were assigned to
the manufactures of Norwich, Ipswich, Colchester,
.London, &c. and even to some foreigners, especi-
ally the Dutch. On this occasion, the abbot kept
an open table ; while those of inferior rank were
entertained in the refectory by the monks. The
widowed queen of France, sister to Henry the
Eighth, came every year from her residence at West-
thorpe, with her noble consort, the Duke of Suffolk,
to attend this fair, where she had a magnificent tent
for the reception of the numerous people of rank,
j who resorted thither to pay their respects to her,
\ and a band of music for their diversion. This fair,
I in regard to business, has been some time on the
; decline, and has become rather a place of fashionable
resort than a temporary mart.
Bury was frequently honoured with the presence
of Edward the Confessor. — In 1132, Henry the
First returning to England after his interview at
Chartres with Pope Innocent HI. was overtaken by
a violent tempest. As soon as he had landed, he
repaired to Bury to perform his devotions at the
shrine of St. Edmund. — Soon after the treaty con-
cluded by Stephen, with Henry, son of Maud, by
which the latter was acknowledged his successor,
Stephen's son, Eustace came to Bury, and demand-
ed of the abbey and convent considerable supplies
of money, &c. On the refusal of the abbot, the
prince ordered the granaries of the monastery to be
plundered, and many of the farms belonging to it to
be ravaged and burned. In the midst of these pro-
ceedings, he was seized with a fever, and expired at
Bury on St. Lawrence's day, 1153, in the eighteenth
year of his age. — During the contest in which Henry
the Second was engaged with his sons, a consider-
able army was assembled at Bury, to support the
cause of the sovereigns ; and, at Fornham St. Geno-
veive, on the 27th of October, 1173, a bloody en-
gagement took place, and terminated in the total
defeat of the rebels. In this engagement, the sacred
standard of St. Edmund was borne before the royal
army, which now made Bury its head quarters. — In
this reign the Jews, who were very numerous at
Bury, had a synagogue there. In 1179, having, as
it is said, murdered a boy of this town, named Robert,
in derision of Christ's crucifixion, and committed
the like offences in other parts of England, they
were banished the kingdom. — Richard the First,
previously to his departure for the Holy Land, paid
a devotional visit to the convent and shrine of St.
Edmund ; and, on his return, he offered up the rich
standard of Isaac, king of Cyprus, at the shrine.
The foundation of Magna Charta is known to
have been a charter of Henry the First. A copy of
it having fallen into the hands of Stephen Langton,
archbishop of Canterbury, was by him communi-
cated to the principal nobles of the kingdom, a
meeting of whom was convened at Bury to delibe-
rate on the subject. On this occasion, each of the^
persons present went to the high altar of the church
of St. Edmund, in which the assembly was held,,
and there swore, that if the king should refuse to
abolish the arbitrary Norman laws, and restore those
enacted by Edward the Confessor, they would make
war upon him until he complied. The king, on his
return from Poitou, in 1214, met his barons at Bur}',
and
SUFFOLK.
289
and with tlie utmost solemnity confirmed this cele-
brated deed ; binding himself, by a public oath, to
regulate his administration by the grand principles
which it established.— Henry the Tiiird paid several
visits to Bury. In 1272, he held a parliament here,
and then proceeded to Norwich to punish the authors
of a violent insurrection against the prior and monks
of that city. He returned to this town, where he
was seized with the disorder, which soon afterwards
terminated his reign and life. — In 1296, Edward the
First held a parliament at Bury. In the reign of
Edward the Second, his queen Isabella, being dis-
satisfied with the conduct of the Spensers, favourites
of that monarch, obtained the assistance of the
prince of Hainault, and landed with a force of 2,700
men, furnished by him at Orwell haven ; on which
she inarched to this town, where she continued some
time to refresh her troops, and collect her adherents.
— Edward the Third and Richard the Second visited
Bury, and paid their adoration at the shrine of St.
Edmund. In 138J, soon after the insurrection of
Wat Tyler, the people of Norfolk and Suffolk,
and Jack Straw, committed excessive devastations.
Proceeding to Cavendish, they there plundered and
burned the house of Sir John de Cavendish, the
lord chief-justice, whom they seized and carried to
Bury ; where they struck off his head, and placed
it on the pillory. They then attacked the monastery.
Sir John Cambridge, the prior, endeavoured to
escape by flight, but being taken and executed near
Mildenhall, his head was set up near that of the lord
chief-justice. Sir John Lakenhythe, the keeper of
the barony, shared the same fate. The insurgents
then plundered the abbey, carrying off jewels to a
considerable amount, and doing much mischief to
the buildings. They were, however, soon dispersed
by Henry Spencer, the bishop of Norwich, who met
them at Barton Mills, with a very inferior force. —
In 1433, Henry the Sixth celebrated Christinas at
the monastery of Bury. — In 1446, a parliament was
held in this town, at which that monarch presided.
Another parliament met at Bury, in 1448 ; and in
1486, the town was honoured with the presence of
Henry the Seventh, in his progress through Norfolk
and Suffolk. — In 1526, an alarming insurrection of
the people of Lavenham, Hadleigh, Sudbury, and
the adjacent country, was quelled by the Dukes of
Norfolk and Suffolk, who met for that purpose at
Bury, whither many of the ringleaders were brought
and appeared before those noblemen in their shirts,
and with halters about their necks, when they re-
ceived the royal pardon. — On the death of Edward
the Sixth, John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland,
having procured lady Jane Grey to be declared the
heir to the crown, marched with an army into Suf-
folk, and made Bury the rendezvous of his troops.
Mary was meanwhile proelaimed queen by the coun-
cil, who ordered the duke to return to Cambridge. —
During the reign of Mary, Bury witnessed several
of those scenes, which disgraced various parts of
the kingdom. James Abbes was here burned for a
heretic on the 2d August, 1555 ; Roger Clarke, of
VOL. iv. — NO. 162.
Mendlesham, in 1556 ; and Roger Bernard, Ailatn
Forster, and Robert Lawsou, on the 80th June,
the same year. In like manner, John Cooke, Robert
Miles, Alexander Lane, and James Ashley, suffered
for the same cause, shortly before the queen's last
illness ; and Philip Humphrey, and John and Henry
David, brothers, were here brought to the stake
only a fortnight before Mary's death. — Elizabeth,
in her journey through Norfolk and Suffolk, in 1578,
paid a visit to this town, — During the reign of her
successor, this town experienced a destructive cala-
mity, thus recorded by Stow. "In the year 1608,
April 11, being Monday, the quarter sessions was
held at St. Edmund's Bury, and by negligence, an
out malt-house was set on fire ; from whence, in a
most strange and sudden manner, through fierce
winds, the fire came to the farthest side of the town,
and, as it went, left some streets and houses safe and
untouched. The flame flew clean over many houses,
and did great spoil to many fair buildings furthest
off; and ceased not till it had consumed one hundred
and sixty dwelling houses, besides others ; and, in
i damage of wares and household stuff, to the full
i value of sixty thousand pounds." King James,
I who was a great benefactor to the town, contributed
i vast quantities of timber towards rebuilding it. — In
1636, the plague so depopulated the town, that the
I grass grew in the streets. Four hundred families
I lay sick of that distemper, at the same time, and
> were maintained at the public charge, which is said
; to have amounted to 200/. a week. — In the 17th
i century, when James the First had excited the
popular zeal against the imaginary crime of witch-
craft, Bury exhibited some disgraceful instances of
this persecuting spirit. In 1644, one Matthew Hop-
kins, of Manningtree, in Essex, who styled himself,
Witch -finder general, and had twenty shillings
allowed him for every town he visited, was, with
some others, commissioned by parliament to perform
a circuit for the discovery of witches. By virtue
of this commission, sixteen persons were hanged at
Yarmouth, forty at Bury, and others at different
parts of the country. Mr. Lawes, an innocent, aged
clergyman, of Brandeston, a cooper and his wife,
and fifteen other women, were all condemned and
executed at one time at Bury. — Hopkins used many
arts to extort confession from suspected persons,
and when these failed, he had recourse to swimming
them, which was done by tying their thumbs and
great toes together, and then throwing them into the
water. If they floated they were guilty of the crime
of witchcraft, but their sinking was a proof of their
innocence. This method he pursued, till some gen-
tlemen, indignant at his barbarity, tied his own
thumbs and toes, as he had been accustomed to tie
those of other persons, and when put into the water,
he himself swam, as many had done before him. By
this expedient the country was soon cleared of him.
— Bury, however, witnessed another execution for.
witchcraft, on the 17<h March, 1664, when two poor
widows were tried before Sir Matthew Hale, au^
sentenced to die. Sir Matthew, far from being
4 D satisfied
•290
SUFFOLK.
satisfied with the evidence, proceeded with, such
extreme caution, that he forbore to sum it up, leaving
the matter to the jury, with a prayer to Got!, to
direct their hearts in returning a verdict.
Amongst the distinguished natives of Bury, were
Edmund Bromfield, bishop of Llandaff, who died in
1391 ;* Richard de Aungervyle, better known by
the name of De Bury, from this his native place,
born in 1281, and educated at the university of Ox-
ford ;t Stephen Gardiner, said to have been the
natural son of Richard Woodville, brother to Eliza-
beth, queen of Edward the Fourth, born in 1483,
and educated at Trinity-hall, Cambridge ;J William
and Nicholas Clagett, and John Battely, eminent
divines of the 17th century.
CARLFORD.] — The hundred of Garlford is bounded,
on the eastern side, by Loes, Wilforcl, and the river
Deben ; towards the south, by Colneis ; and west-
ward, by the liberties of Ipswich, and the hundred
of Bosmere and Claydon.
Seckford Hall, in the parish of Great Bealings,
was long the seat of a family of that name, ono of
whom was a great benefactor of the neighbouring
town of Woodbridge.
Brightwell was, about the middle of the 17th
century, the property of the Barnardiston family.
* Of the inhabitants of the monastery, none was perhaps
more celebrated than John Lydgate, called, the Monk of Bury,
born about the year 1380, at the village of Lydgate in this
county. Having studied at an English university, he travelled
into France and Italy, where he acquired a competent know-
ledge of the language of those countries, and on his return,
opened a school in London. At what time he retired to the
convent at Bury, is uncertain, as is also the period of his death ;
though it is known that he was living, in 1446. He is charac-
terized, as an elegaat poet, a, persuasive rhetorician, arc expert
mathematician, an acule philosopher, and a tolerable divine.
His language is much less, obsolete than Chaucer's, and his
versification far more harmonious.
•j- On finishing his studies, he entered into the order of Bene-
dictines, and became tutor to the Prince of Wales, afterwards
Edward the Third. He was subsequently appointed cofferer,
treasurer of tbe wardrobe, archdeacon of Northampton, pre-
bendary of Lincoln, Sarum, and Lichfield, keeper of the
privy seal, dean of Wells, and bishop of Durham. He also
held the offices of lord high-chancellor and treasurer ; and dis-
charged two important embassies at the court of France. The
public library which he founded at Oxford, on the spot where
now. stand* Trinity College, was a noble instance of his muni-
ficence, He died at the manor of Auckland, April 24, 1345,
arjtl was interred at Durham.
J Cardinal Wolsey recommended him to Henry the Eighth.
He'had a considerable share in effecting the king's divorce from
Catharine of Arragon ; and he assisted him in throwing off the
papal yoke. For these and other services he was elevated to
the see of Winchester; but opposing the Reformation in the
succeSdip^ reign, he was thrown into prison, where he con-
tinued several years, till Queen Mary released him; restored
him to his bishoprick, and invested him with the office of lord
high-chancellor. He drew up the marriage articles between
Queen Mary and Philip U. of Spain, with the strictest regard
to" the interests of England. He opposed, but in vain, the
coming of Cardinal Pole into the kingdom. He preserved
inviolate the privileges of the university of Cambridge, of
which he was chancellor, and defeated every scheme for extend-
ing the royal prerogative beyond its due limits. He had, howr
ever, a, principal share in reconciling the Epglisb. nation to the
Sir Samuel, who was created a Baronet in 1663,
rebuilt the hall, and en-tailed the estate on his heirs
male, who are now extinct.
Grundisburgh Hall, now the residence of G. B.
Dillingham, Esq. was once the property of the family
of Blois, of whom Charles Blois-, Esq. created a
Baronet in 1688, removed to Cockfield Hall, near
Yoxfbrd, wjiere his descendants remain.
Ottley was long the property of the Lords Aber-
gavenny. In the church is a monument of John
Gosnold, who was lord of the manor, in 1628, and
gentleman-usher to Queen Elizabeth.
Playford, a moated residence, was the seat of
the Felton Family, one of whom acquired it by
marriage with the heiress of Sir Thomas Samp-
son ; his descendant Henry was created a Baronet
in I (r.JI , but by the failure of male issue, the title
became extinct, and the estate devolved, to the
Earl of Bristol, in right of his countess,, who was.
the representative of a collateral branch, sprung
from Sir Thomas Felton, chief-justice of Chester,
under Edward the Third. Felton, the assassin of
the Duke of Buckingham, was born at Playford Hall.
The philanthropist, Clarkson, to whom England is
chiefly indebted for the abolition of the slave trade,
is the present occupier of that ancient estate. §1
see of Rome ; and he was deeply implicated in the persecution
against the Protestants.
§ In a splendid volnme of poems, published by a gentleman
of Woodlpridge, in the year 1818, we find the following lines,
entitled, "Playford, a Descriptive Fragment:" —
Hast thou a heart to prove the power
Of landscape lovely, soft, and serene ?
Gp-^when. its fragrance lw)th left the flower^
When Ujejcaf is no longer glossy and green ;
When the clouds are careering across the sky,
And the rising winds teH the tempest nigbv
Though the slanting sunbeams are lingering-still,
On the tower's grey top, and the side of the hill ;
Then go the village of Playfotd, end see
If it be not a lovely spot ;
And, if Nature can boast of charms for thee,
Thou wilt love it and leave it not.
Till the shower shall waru theo no longer to roam,
And tlien thou wilt carry its picture home.;,,
To feed, thy fancy when far away,
A source of delight for a future .day.
Its sloping green is verdant and fair,
And between its tufts of trees
Are white cottages, peeping here and th'ece,
The pilgrim's eye to please : —
A white farm-house* may be seen on itsbrp.ir,
And its grey old hallf in the valley below,
By a moat encircled round ;
And from the left verge of its hill you may hear,
If you chance on a Sabbath to wander near
A sabbath-breathing sound:
'Tis the sound of the hell which is slowly ringing
In that tower, which lifts its turrets above
The wood-fringed bank, where the birds are singing,
And from spray to spray are fearlessly springing,.
As if in a lonely and untrodden grove ; .
For the grey church tower is far over head ;
And so d'eep is the winding lane below,
They hear not the sound of the traveller's tread,
If a traveller there should chance to go.
* The residence of Mr. Arthur Biddell. t Playford Hall.
,At
SUFFOLK.
291
At Witnesham, was the seat of Bartholomew
Burghersh, one of the first knights of the garter.
The site of this mansion may be traced by the
moat which surrounded it, and a road corruptly
called Burrage Lane.'
COLNEIS.] — The hundred of Colneis is bounded,
on the north, by Carlford ; on the east by the Deben
and the German ocean ; and, on the west, by the
Orwell, and the liberties of Ipswich.
Felixtow, a small village on the coast, is sup-
posed to be the place where Felix, the Burgundian,
landed on his arrival in the island ; a conjecture
which is supported by the mitred image found here,
and supposed to have been made in honour of him.
At Lfivington, is an alms -house for six poor per-
sons of that parish, and of Nacton. Near this vil-
lage stood Stratton church, or chapel, the ruins of
which, overgrown with shrubs, were to be seen a
few years since. The discovery of crag, which was
first made at Levington, is curious. A farmer had
been carrying dung from his yard, and wanting
a load or two to complete his work, took some
of the soil on which the manure had lain. He was
surprised to observe, that the land, on which this
was laid, was more productive than the rest ; and
he used a large quantity the following year, with
such success, that the practice soon became general.
Nacton is the property and residence of Sir P. B. V.
Broke, Bart, of the Royal Navy, whose ancestor, Sir
Richard Broke, was lord chief baron in the reign of
Henry VIII. This gentleman is indebted for his
title to the meritorious services which he rendered
to his country, in the memorable capture of the
Chesapeake, American frigate, on the 1st of June,
1813. The celebrated Admiral Vernon chose this
place for his residence. Orwell Park, and the
mansion which it surrounds, were designed by his
nephew, who was created Baron Orwell, in 1762,
and Earl of Shipbrooke soon after. His lordship
died in 1783, when the title became extinct; and
the estate descended to his nephew, John Vernon,
Esq. who exchanged it with Sir Robert Harland,
Bart, for Wherstead Lodge, on the opposite side
of the river. Sir Robert still resides ther6 ; and,
by the death of Mr. Vernon, in the year 1818, he
has again come into the possession of Wherstead
Lodge, by right of his lady, a relative of the
Verivon family. At Nacton is the house of industry^
for the poor of Carlford and Colneis, erected, in
1757, at the expence of 4,800/. The poor are em-
ployed in spinning and sack-weaving.
A number of barrows in this parish' have' given
rise to the supposition that here, and not at Rush-
mere, Earl Ulfketel engaged the Danes, in 1010.
A tract of land between Nacton and the liberties
of Ipswich, which once belonged to a priory of
Augustine friars, has become extra-parochial.
At Triraley St. 3Iartin is Grimstone Hall, where
resided Thomas Cavendish, the second Englishman
who sailed round the globe. He fitted out, at his
own expence, three small vessels, making together
no more than 220 tons, and carrying 123 men, to
plamler the Spanish American possessions. After
sacking several towns, and taking some valuable
prizes, he returned home by the Cape of Good
Hope, having completed the circum-navigation in
two years and fifty days. He was afterwards lost
: in a similar undertaking.
The chiwch of Trinity St. Mary, Situated in the
church-yard of the last mentioned parish, is in ruins.
I It is supposed to httve been founded by Thora««
do Brotherton, the son of Edward the First, whoso
arms are still to be seen over the door.
Waltton, a nent and pleasant village, was a pbce
of some note before the Conquest. The castle, of
which no vestige remains, was demolished by com-
mand of Henry the Second, with such others as had
held out against him during the rebellion. That
this castle was a Roman fortification, is proved by
the great number of urns, rings, coins, &c. which
have been found there, chiefly of Vespasian, Anto-
ninus, Severus, and their successors.
In tile parish of Felixtow, are considerable re-
mains of an ancient and magnificent building, called
the Old'Hall. Edward the Third resided there for
some time, previously to his departure on the French
expedition. In this parish was also a priory, of
which no remains exist.
Languard Fort, which stands upon a point of Innd
at the southern extremity of the county, commands
the entrance of the Orwell, and, during the late
war, was usually garrisoned by a detachment of two
companies, from the Ipswich or Woodbridge bar-
racks. The entrance is -over a draw-bridge ; on the
right hand, is1 the residence of the governor, and
lieutenant-governor ; and, opposite to the gate, is
a larger edifice, in which the soldiers are lodged.
This fort was attacked, in 1667, by u body of 3000
Dutch, who effected a landing, but were put tff.
flight by the discharge of two or three small guns,
which scattered the pebbles among them. Three
miles from the fort is Felixtow Cottage, a charming
retreat, fonned by the taste of the well-known
Philip -.Thecknesse, Esq. who-was lieutenant-gover-
nor. This marine viHa now belongs to the Fludyer
family.
GosFoiH).] — The hundred of Ctjford, bounded,
towards the north, by; Stow and Tbedwestry ; on .
the east, by the* hundred -of Bosmere aiwt Clayden,'
and that of S&mford ; and, westward, by Babergli
hundred ; contains seventeen' parishes, and one mar-
ket town.
Bildeston, a small town, once privileged with »'
market, and noted for its manufacture of blue cloth
and blankets, is now reduced to a place of small
importance. The chnrch ia situated on a hill, west-
ward from the town, and on account of its distance.-
divine service was long performed in a ehapel, >
called Erdiugton's chauntry, within the precincts.
Brettenham is supposed, by some, to be the Com-
bretoniunt of Antoninus;, artd< the vestiges • wf «-•.'
camp, near it, countenance the conjecture.
At
292
SUFFOLK.
At Cbelsworth are the remains, nearly reduced to
the foundation, of a stone mansion. It is surround-
ed by the river Bret, and seems to have formed part
of a demesne, now called the Park and Park wood.
A handsome mansion, in the parish, is the property
and residence of Sir Robert Pocklington.
The church of Elmsett, built with flint stones,
presents, in the interior, a remarkably neat appear-
ance. On the side of an opposite hill, is a dropping
•well, which deserves the attention of the curious ;
but Elmsett is more remarkable as the birth-place
of John Boyse, an eminent scholar and divine of
the sixteenth century. His father, rector of the
parish, was himself a scholar. Before young Boyse
had attained his fifth year, he read the Hebrew
Bible, and, having acquired the reputation of the
first Greek scholar of his time, he became lecturer
of St. John's, Cambridge. He delivered his lec-
tures in his own chamber, at four in the morning ;
and so numerous was the attendance, that the num-
ber of lights, at that early hour, in St. John's,
became proverbial. He succeeded his father in the
living of Elmsett, and when the new version of the
bible was projected, he was chosen one of the Cam-
bridge translators. He assisted in translating the
works of Chrysostom, for which he was ill-reward-
ed, and the only preferment he obtained in the
church, was a prebend in Ely cathedral. He lived
to the age of 63, and died, January 14, 1643.
Hadleigh, 10f miles W. from Ipswich, and 64f
N. E. from London, situated on the river Breton,
formerly enjoyed the privileges of an incorporated
borough, and was governed by a mayor, alderman,
and common council. The principal ornament of
Hadleigh, is the church, embellished with a spire
steeple, and an altar-piece, erected by Dr. Wilkins.
Guthrum, the Danish prince, defeated by Alfred,
"-nd by him converted to Christianity, governed the
East -Angles twelve years, under Alfred, and,
dying in 889, was interred in this church, where
a tomb, said to be his, is still shewn. Twelve
alms-houses were founded here, in 1497, by Wil-
liam Pakenham, for the benefit of decayed house-
keepers ; and a Sunday school is supported by volun-
tary contributions.
In the course of the year 1818, the rector (Dr.
Drummond) and principal inhabitants of the town
of Hadleigh, caused to be erected, on what is called
Aldham Common, in that parish, an elegant stone
cenotaph, on the spot which tradition has assigned
for the martyrdom of Dr. Rowland Taylor ; who
suffered, during the reign of the bigoted Mary.
This memorial of pious veneration is placed within
the circular iron railing, which for ages has preserved
as sacred the spot, where Taylor passed the fiery
ordeal to eternal bliss. The rude stone, that never
received the embellishing chisel of the sculptor, and
which has hitherto designated the place of martyr-
dom, is very justly placed at the foot of the newly
ertcted monument. It is, perhaps, a fair specimen
of the rude and uncultivated age in which it was
produced : on it this brief inscription, in capitate, is
as rudely engraved : —
1555
D. TAYLOR. IN DE
FENDING. THAT
WAS GOOD. AT
THIS PLAS LEFT
HIS BLODE.
The name of Taylor deserves to be perpetuated ;
and it scarcely can be doubted, but that the monu-
ment, now erected to his memory, will redound to
the credit of the town of Hadleigh, and gain the
plaudits of posterity, when the hands that reared it
shall lie mouldering in the dust. On the side of the
monument, facing the footpath, is the following
inscription, generally attributed to the pen of Dr.
Drummond.
^•f.
This is the Victory tluit overcometh the World, even our Faith:
1st Epistle of John, chap. 5, verse 4.
Mark this rude stone where Taylor dauntless stood,
Where zeal in furiate drank the martyrs blood ;
Hadleigh ! — that day, how many a tearful eye
Saw thy loved pastor dragged a victim by :
Still scattering gifts and blessings as he passed,
" To the blind Pair" his fairwel alms were cast ;
His clinging flock e'en here around him prayed,
" As thou hast aided us, be God thine aid !"
Nor taunts, nor tribes of mitred rank, nor stake,
Nor blows, nor flames, his heart of firmness shake ;
Serene— his folded hands, his upward eyes,
Like holy Stephen's seek the opening skies ;
There, fix'd in rapture, his prophetic sight,
Views truth dawn clear on England's bigot night ;
Triumphant Saint !— He bowed, and kissed the rod,
And soar'd on seraph-wing to meet his God.
The sixth line, which makes mention of the " blind
pair," may be thus explained : — On his way to Aid-
ham Common, the Doctor, on passing the alms-
house, enquired if the blind man and woman were
living ; being told they were, he threw the glove
which contained his money in at the window.
The manor of Kettilbarston was granted to Wil-
liam de la Pole, Marquis of SutFdlk, to be held by
the service of carrying a golden sceptre and dove
at the coronation of the king of England ; and a
sceptre of ivory, with a golden dove, at the coro-
nation of the Queen.
At Semer is situated the house of industry for
Cosford hundred, erected in 1760. The average
number of paupers, is from 180 to 200, who are
employed in spinning.
Wattishatn is held by a whimsical and barbarous
service, similar to that performed by the lord of
Hemingston, already noticed.
HARTISMEHE.] — The hundred of Hartismere,
bounded, on the northern side, by the county of
Norfolk, on the east, by Hoxne and Lnes, on the
south, by Thredling, Bosmere with Claydon, and
Stow ; and, on the west, by Blackbourn hundred ;
was incorporated, in the year 1779, with the hundred
of Hoxne and Thredling, but Las not, like other
hundreds.
SUFFOLK.
293
hundreds, a common house of industry. It con-
tains one borough, and one market-town.
Botesdale, a market-town, seven miles W. N.W.
frome Eye, and 185| N. E. by N. from London,
small and ill-built, received its name from a chapel,
dedicated to St. Botolph. A free grammar-school
at this place was founded, in 1576, by Sir Nicholas
Bacon, who also bequeathed 20/. per annum to
Bene't College, Cambridge, for the benefit of six
scholars.
The village of Broome has long been the resi-
dence of the noble and loyal family of Cornwallis.
The founder, Thomas Cornwallis, was sheriff of
London in 1578 ; his descendant, John, was knight-
ed at the siege of Morlaix, and Sir Thomas, the
son of the latter, was, for his loyalty, nominated by
Queen Mary one of her privy council. In 1627,
Frederic, his grandson, who was a staunch adherent
to the king, in the civil war, was created a baronet,
and, after the Restoration, a peer by the title of Lord
Cornwallis, of Eye. Many of his posterity arrived
at the first honours in the state, and the late marquis,
having crushed the rebellion in Ireland, negociated
the peace of Amiens, and been invested a second
time with the office of governor-general of the
British possessions in the East Indies, died there
in 1805. Broome Hall, an ancient and stately man-
sion of brick, with curiously ornamented chimnies,
exhibits in its interior a perfect specimen of old
English magnificence. The great hall is without
ceiling, and a large window, at one end, is embel-
lished with the family arms. The walls are adorned
with portraits of celebrated persons, as Queen Mary
and her consort, James I., Oliver Cromwell, and
particularly Anne of Denmark, who is painted at
full length, attended by Italian greyhounds, and
her horse. The dining-room contains nine family
portraits, and other apartments are adorned with
numerous paintings. The chapel exhibits the most
sumptuous remains of ancient splendour, being fur-
nished with cushions of silk, and hung with painted
tapestry, The church of Broome contains several
monuments of the family of Cornwallis, one of which,
without a date, supports the effigies of Henry Corn-
wallis, Esq. with this inscription,
ft
" I entered only that I should go out :
" He that is born, must dye, there is no doubt."
The corporate town of Eye, 23 miles N. from
Ipswich, and 80J N. E. by N. from London, situated
on the eastern border of the hundred, and almost
surrounded by a small rivulet, is governed by two
bailiffs, ten principal burgesses, and twenty-four
common council-men, with 'a recorder and town-
clerk. Two members are returned to parliament by
about 200 voters, who are for the most part, in the
interest of the Marquis Cornwallis, the lord of the
manor and honour of Eye. The church is large and
handsome ; and, eastward from the town, are the
ruins of a Benedictine monastery, founded and richly
endowed by William Mallet, on whom William the
VOL. iv.— NO. 102.
First conferred the lordshrp of Eye with all its
appendages.
The brotherhood held, among other possessions,
the site of the episcopal see at Dunwich, and brought
from that place St. Felix's book of the gospels,
written in great Lombard letters, by which, under
the name of the Red Book of Eye, the common
people were wont to swear.— In 1781, some labourers
digging in a field near this place, discovered a leaden
box, containing several hundred Roman coins and
medals, of the purest gold, well executed, and in
high preservation, chiefly of the emperors Arcadius
and Honorius, and each worth about eleven shil-
lings. A quantity of human bones were discovered
in the neighbourhood ; and, in the parish of Eye, in
the year 1818, a great number of very fine Roman
urns were discovered, some of them in excellent
preservation.
Mendlesham, six miles N. E. from Stowmarket,
and 79| N.E. from London, formerly a market-town,
and supposed to have been the residence of one of
the Saxon kings, is now an inconsiderable village.
About one hundred years since, a silver crown,
weighing sixty ounces, was found at this place ;
and, in 1758, a gold concave ring, bearing a Runic
inscription, was dug up here.
In the porch of Palgrave church, was interred the
celebrated antiquary, Thomas Martin, better known
by the familiar appellation of honest Tom Martin of
Pa/grave.
Redgrave Hall, the seat of Sir Nicholas Bacon,
lord-keeper to Queen Elizabeth, is a spacious and
handsome structure, situated in a park of great
beauty. The church of Redgrave contains some
monuments, which for beauty of materials and sculp-
ture, are scarcely excelled by any in the kingdom.
On a black table monument repose the figures, in
white marble, of Sir Nicholas Bacon and his lady.
In the chancel is the monument of Sir John Holt,
said to have cost 1500/. He is represented in his
robes of office, with the figures of Justice and
Mercy at his side. The following inscription was-
written by the celebrated Dr. Halley : —
M.S.
; D. Johannis Holt, Equitis Aur.
TotiusAngliz in Banco Regis
per 21 annos continues
Capital is Justitiarii;
Gulielmo Regi, Annsque Regins?,
Contiliarii perpetui ;
Libertatis ac hegum Anglicarum
Assertoris, Vindicis, Custodis
Vigilis, A.cris et Intrepidi.
Rolandus Frater unicus et Hires
Optimo de se merito
Posuit.
Die Marlis Vto 1 709, sublatus est
ex Oculis nostris.
Natus 30 Decembris, Anno 1640,
Thomas, afterwards Cardinal Wolsey, was insti-
tuted to this rectory, in 1506, on the presentation of
the abbot and convent of Bury.
IB At
294
SUFFOLK.
At Redlingfield, was a convent of Benedictine
nuns, the chapel of which is used as a parish church,
and other remains, now called the Hall, are occu-
pied as a farm-house.
Westhorp Hall was demolished about half a cen-
tury since. The battlements and other ornaments
were as entire as when first built, and no part of the
edifice shewed marks of decay. No care was taken
to preserve the relics of this valuable monument of
antiquity ; the chimnies were pulled down with
ropes, and even some statues, with the painted glass
in the windows, were broken to pieces.
HOXNE.] — The hundred of Hoxne is bounded, on
the north, by the county of Norfolk ; on the east,
by Wangford and Blything hundreds ; on the south,
by Plomesgate and Loes ; and, on the west, by
Hartismere.
Brundish was formerly noted for a chauntry,
founded by Sir John Payshale, rector of Caston,
for six chaplains, to pray for the soul of Robert de
Ufford, Earl of Suffolk. All the lands in this parish
are freehold.
At Carleton, a chauntry was founded by John
Framlingham, rector of Kelsale, in 1330, for three
chaplains, to pray for the soul of Alice, Countess of
Norfolk.
At Dennington, Lord Bardolph founded, in the
5th year of Henry the First, a chauntry, for two
priests to celebrate divine service at the altar of St.
Margaret. The Hall, with the manor of Denning-
ton, is the property of the family of Rous.
Fresingfiekl was the birth-place of Dr. Sancroft,
archbishop of Canterbury, who also died there, and
was interred under a handsome monument. Before
his death, he gave to the vicar and his successors
an estate of 52/. per annum, to the master of a
school 10/., and to the parish clerk 6/., for whom
also he built a convenient dwelling.
At Hoxne, is a bridge, now called Gold bridge,
under which king Edmund is said to have concealed
himself after his flight from the Danes, in 870.
Tradition relates, that a newly married couple, cross-
ing the bridge in the evening, discovered the king
by the reflection of his gilt spurs in the water, and
betrayed him to the Danes. Indignant at their
treachery, he pronounced a curse upon all, who, in
their circumstances, shall pass that bridge ; and we
are told, that, at this day, persons proceeding to
church upon the marriage errand, never fail to
avoid it. The unfortunate monarch was interred
here ; and a rude chapel was erected over his re-
mains. The hall is the residence of Sir Thomas
Maynard Hesilrigge, Bart.
Laxfield is supposed to have been formerly a
place of considerable note ; having had, in the reign
of Edward the Fourth, a market and two annual
fairs.
Mcndham, situated on both sides of the VVaveney,
.comprehends a part of the town of Harleston, in
Norfolk. Some remains of a Cluniac priory, found-
ed here in the reign of Stephen, have been conrerted
into a farm-house.
Stradbrook, once a considerable -village, was the
birth-place of the celebrated scholar, Robert Grost-
head, Bishop of Lincoln.
The small village of Syleham is remarkable for tha
phenomena, called ignes fatal, frequently seenin its
neighbourhood. They are here called Syleham lamps.
The church of Wingfield, built of flints and other
stones of various colours, exhibits a singular, and
not unpleasing appearance. Some monuments of
the Wingfield family, who were lords of the manor,
are in a rich style. The murderer of Humphrey,
Duke of Gloucester, William de la Pole, who was
himself executed, in a summary way, on the gun-
wale of a boat, and afterwards thrown into the sea,
is buried in Wingfield church. The south front of
the- castle, built here by Michael de la Pole, first
Earl of Suffolk, is entire, and the west side is occu-
pied as a farm-house.
In the church of Worling worth, is preserved the
antique Gothic font, which once adorned the abbey
church at Bury ; and which was repaired and beau-
tified a few years since, at the expence of Lord
Henniker.
IPSWICH.] — Ipswich, the county town, is 69 miles
N. E. from London. Its liberties include the town
and suburbs, the hamlets of Stoke Hall, Brook's
Hall, Wike's Ufford, and Wike's Bishop, a district
four miles long, and as many broad. It is bounded,
on the north, by the hundred of Bosmere and Clay-
don ; on the east, by Carlford, and Colneis ; and,
on the south and west, by Samford. The borough
of Ipswich also claims, as an appendage, a juris-
diction over the river Orwell, from the town, to a
place called the Pollshead, upon the sand called
the Andrews, in the high sea, beyond the cliffs of
Walton and Felixtow. The last time that this juris-
diction was exercised, was on the 13th of August,
1818, when, agreeably to a standing order of the
great court of the corporation, acted upon at stated
periods, an admiralty court was holden in due form
upon the sands, at low water, the whole corporate
body attending.
The town of Ipswich is agreeably situated on the
side of a hill, with a southern aspect, declining by
an easy descent to the river Orwell. The soil is
sand, or gravel, and its situation is highly salubri-
ous. The hills, which rise above the town, to the
north and east, shelter it from bleak and inclement
winds, and contain springs which furnish it with an
inexhaustible supply of excellent water ; a circum-
stance to which it is probably owing that Ipswich
has suffered less from fire than most other towns.
Ipswich derives its name from its situation at the
place where the river Gippen, or Gipping, discharges
itself into, or, rather, meets the Orwell. It is the
Gyppeswik, Gyppeswiz, Gyppewicus, and Gyppe-
wic, of Domesday, gradually changed into Yppys-
wyche and Ipswich. The original town, within the
gates,
SUFFOLK.
205
gules, was not large. It was surrounded by a ditch j
and rampart, which was broken dawn by tin; Danes, \
when they pillaged the town .twice, in the years 991 !
and 1000. This fortification was renewed and re- |
paired, in 1203. The town had formerly four gates, |
east, west, north, and south ; and from these gates
were named the four leets or wards, into which it
was divided. There was also a fifth gate, called
the Lose-gate, on the bank of the Orwell, where |
was once a ford through that river. Though the j
rampart has, in many places, been broken through, 1
and in others entirely levelled, considerable remains !
of it still exist ; from which it is apparent, that the '
whole of the parishes of St. Austin, St. Clement, j
and St. Helen, with great part of those of St. Mar- i
g-aret and St. Matthew, were not included within the
g-ates. They were anciently denominated the suburbs |
of Ipswich. — Previously to, and for many years after, i
the Norman conquest, Ipswich appears to have been
rapidly declining. During the reign of Edward the •
Confessor, his queen Kdith had two thirds of this
borough, and Earl Guert, the sixth son of Earl
Goodwin, possessed the remaining third. — The first j
charter, obtained by this town, was granted by King
John, in 1199, and conferred on the inhabitants im- <
portant privileges. By this charter, the king granted ,
to the burgesses, the borough of Ipswidh, with all :
its appurtenances, liberties, &c. to be held of him
and his heirs, by the payment of the usual annual
farm of 35/. and one hundred shillings more at the
exchequer. He exempted them from the payment '
of all taxes, under the denominations of " tholl, '
lestage, stallage, passage, pontage," and all other j
customs throughout his land and sea-ports, — a pri-
vilege still enjoyed by such masters of ships as are
i'ree of this borough, iu all the ports of the kingdom.
The other privileges were as follows : — That the
inhabitants should have a merchants' guild and hanse !
of their own ; that no person should be quartered [
upon them without their consent, or take any thing
from them by force ; that they might hold their lands,
and recover their just dues from whomsoever they
were owing ; that they should hold their lands within
the borough, according to the custom of the borough !
of Ipswich; that none of them should be fined or '
amerced but according to the laws of tho free
borough ; that they might chuse two bailiffs, and
four coroners out of the more lawful (principal) men
of the town. — Edward the First, in 1284, for some
offences committed by the burgesses of Ipswich,
seized the borough into his own hands, and kept it
six years ; when, being pleased with the service
performed by some ships from Ipswich in his expe- j
dition against Scotland, he regranted the borough j
and its liberties to the burgesses, and confirmed the
charters of his predecessors by another dated at
Berwick, June 23, 1291. He punished the town, !
however, by raising the annual rent from 40/. or
sixty marks, to GO/, as it has ever since continued. — I
About the year 1344, the burgesses of Ipswich were
a second time deprived of their charter, on the fol-
lowing occasion. "At the assizes, which were held
by a judge named Sharford, some sailors, whose
attendance was necessary, thought that his lordship
staid too long at dinner. One of them, in a frolic,
took his seat upon the bench, and caused another to
make proclamation, requiring William Sharford to
come into court and save his fine ; and, as he did not
appear, directed him to be fined. The judge, who
was a morose man, so highly resented the joke, that
because the magistrates refused to apprehend the
sailors, he prevailed upon the king to seize tke
liberties of the borough, the government of which
was accordingly committed to the sheriff of Norfolk
and Suffolk. Before the expiration of a year, how-
ever, it appears to have been exercised by the bailiffs
as usual. — Next to the charter of King John, that
granted by Henry the Sixth in 1445, was most bene>-
ficial. By this instrument, he incorporated the town
by the style of the burgesses of Ipswich. He autho-
rized them annually to elect two burgesses as bailiffs,
at the accustomed time and place, to hold that office
for one whole year. He granted to the bailiffs,
and four such other burgesses as the bailiffs should
appoint from among the twelve portmen, the office
of justice of the peace within the town, with all
fines, forfeitures, and amercements arising from that
office ; and the assize of bread, wine, and ale. He
appointed such one of the bailiffs, as should he
chosen by the burgesses at the time of election, to
be escheator, and expressly granted the admiralty
and clerkship of the market. — Edward the Fourth
confirmed all these privileges, with the following
alterations and additions : — He incorporated the
town by the name of the bailiffs, burgesses, and
commonalty, of the town of Ipswich ; he confined
the election of bailiffs expressly to the 8th of Sep-
tember, in the Guildhall, to serve for one year ; and
he expressly exempted the burgesses from serving
on juries — Charles the Second, in 1076, confirmed
the high steward, the twelve portmen, and the
twenty-four chief constables, the recorder, and town
clerk, for the time being, by theirnames ; and directed,
that upon the death or removal of any of the port-
men, or twe.ity-four, the vacancy should be filled
up by the rest of those respective bodies. — The
principal officers in the corporation at present are,
two bailiffs, a high steward, a recorder, twelve
portmen, of whom four are justices of the peace, a
town clerk, twenty-four chief constables, two of
whom are coroners, and the twelve senior head-
boroughs, a treasurer, and two chamberlains to
collect the revenues of the town. The corporation
have also fifteen livery servants, consisting of five
musicians, four Serjeants at mace, two beadles, a
common crier, a water-bailiff, a gaoler, and a bride-
well-keeper..—The bailiffs pass fines and recoveries,
hear and determine causes, both criminal and civil,
arising, in the town, and even crown cases prefer-
ably to any of his majesty's courts at Westminster.
They appoint the assize of bread, beer, &c. No
freeman can be obliged to serve on juries out of tin
town
20G
SUFFOLK.
town, or bear any offices for the king, sheriffs for
the county excepted. They are entitled to all waif's,
estrays, and goods cast on shore within their admi-
ralty jurisdiction, which extends down the river,
along the coast of Essex beyond Harwich, one way ;
and beyond Languard Fort, on the other. By the
solemn decision in their favour, of an inquisition
taken in 1340, at Ipswich, they had confirmed to
them the contested right of taking custom-duties
for goods entering the port of Harwich, which was
determined to belong solely to the bailiffs and bur-
gesses of this town. — This borough has sent two
members to parliament since the 25th year of Henry
the Sixth. The right of election is in the bailiffs,
portmen, common councilmen, and freemen at large,
not receiving alms. The number of voters is between
900 and 1000, and the returning officers are the
two bailiffs. The strongest contested election ever
known in Ipswich, was that of June, 1818, when
R. A. Crickitt, and W. Newton, Esqrs. were return-
ed, after a violent opposition by H. Baring, Esq.
and Sir W. Bolton.
The streets of Ipswich are well paved ; but, like
those of most ancient towns which have not suffered
by fire, they are rather narrow and irregular ; and
consequently do not make such a striking appear-
ance as though they ran in right lines. In this 're-
spect, however, in the course of the years 1817 and
1818, great improvements have been effected. The
•whole of the north side of Tavern Street— the prin-
cipal street in the town — from the assembly-room
to the White Horse Inn, has been taken down ;
and, in the place of a straggling irregular mass
of shabby old buildings, a handsome and uniform
range of new houses has been erected. The street
has also been made of a commodious width, with
an excellent, broad foot-pavement. — On the north
side of St. Matthew's Street, in the part formerly
occupied by the old Infantry Barracks, a respectable
opening has been made into the main turnpike road
to Yarmouth, and several handsome houses have
been erected. A heavy pile of building has also
been removed from the hack of the Corn-hill, some
new houses have been built on its site, and a con-
venient entrance has been made into St. Mary Elms
Street. — At the commencement of the year 18)8,
gas lights were introduced into the principal streets
of the town, by Messrs. Cubitt and Co. and they
have been very extensively adopted in shops and
private houses.
Ipswich wholly escaped the calamities to which
many other places were subject, during the civil
dissensions which convulsed the kingdom, about the
middle of the seventeenth century. At the corners
of several of the streets are yet to be seen the re-
mains of curious carved images, and many of the
houses are adorned, some of them to profusion, in
a similar manner. Some of the finest of these gro-
tesque carvings were necessarily removed from the
south-west angle of the assembly-room, in Tavern
Street, at the time of making the above-mentioned
improvements ; but the antiquary will be glad to
learn, that they have been transferred, unmutilated,
to Holy Wells, the seat of John Cobbold, Esq. in
the vicinity of the town. Previously to their re-
moval, accurate drawings of them were taken by
Mr. Frost, a resident artist of distinguished ability.
The town contains many good buildings ; and an
advantage which it possesses in a high degree is,
that most of them have convenient gardens.
Some time subsequently to the Domesday Survey,
this town is said to have contained twenty-one parish
churches. At present, there are but twelve : St.
Clement, St. Helen, St. Laurence, St. Margaret,
St. Mary at Elms, St. Mary at Key, St. Mary at
Stoke, St. Mary at Tower, St. Matthew, St. Nicho-
las, St. Peter, and St. Stephen ; but in addition to
these, the liberty of the borough contains the churches
of Whitton-cum-Thurlston, and Westerfield.
In St. Clement's church is interred Thomas
Eldred, who accompanied Cavendish in his circum-
navigation of the globe, with this inscription :
He that travels ye world about
Seetli God's wonders, and God's works ;
Thomas Eldred traveled ye world about;
And went out of Plimouth ye 2d of July
1586, and arrived in Plimouth again the '
9th of September 1588.
Beyond St. Clement's Street, and between its two
hamlets of Wykes Bishop and Wykes Utford, stood
St. James's chapel, now wholly demolished. It is
supposed to have belonged to St. James's hospital,
between which and the leprous house of St. Mary
Magdalen, some connexion is conjectured to have
existed. The latter is said to have stood somewhere
opposite to St. Helen's church, which, although for-
merly impropriated to the hospital of St. James or
St. Mary Magdalen, has been instituted into a rec-
tory ever since the Reformation. In a field almost
opposite to Caldwell Hall, now called Cold Hall,
on the south of the road leading to Kesgrave, stood
the church of St. John Baptist, in Caldwell, of
which there are no remains. In this parish also, at
the south-west corner of Rosemary Lane, Brook
Street, was formerly a chapel dedicated to St. Ed-
mund-d-Pountney.
The present church of St. Laurence was begun
by John Bottold, who died in 1431, and was interred
here, The chancel was built by John Baldwyn,
draper, who died in 1449. In 1514, Edward Daundy,
then one of the representatives of this borough in
parliament, founded a chauntry in this church, for a
secular priest to officiate at the altar of St. Thomas,
in behalf of himself and his relations, among whom
he reckoned Thomas Wolsey, the dean of Lincoln,
and his parents, Robert and Jane Wolsey, deceased.
St. Margaret's was impropriated to the priory of
the Holy Trinity. The church stood near St. Mar-
garet's church-yard. The priory was founded, and
chiefly endowed before the year 1177, by Norman
Gastrode, for black canons of the order of St. Austin.
King
SUFFOLK.
297
King Henry II. granted the prior and convent a fair
on Holyrood Day, September 14, to continue three
days. The grant of the fair was confirmed by king
John, who moreover granted to the priory all the
lands and rents " formerly belonging" to the churches
of St. Michael and St. Saviour in Ipswich. Thus it
may be inferred, that both these churches were even
then dilapidated : at present their sito is unknown ;
but tradition reports that the latter stood behind St.
Mary Elms ; and that the former was situated near
the church of St. Nicholas. At the suppression, in
1534, the possessions of Trinity priory were valued
at 88/. 6s. Qd. per annum, and in 1544 were granted
to Sir Thomas Pope. The foundation of the steeple
of Trinity church was, about sixty years ago, under-
mined and blown up with gunpowder. — The prin-
cipal porch of St. Margaret's church has two hand-
some carved niches in front. It is ornamented on
the west side by the head of a monk, from whose
mouth the water-spout descends ; and, on the cast
side, that of a nun answers the same purpose. The
parliamentary visitors, appointed, in 1043, to inspect
and deface the churches of this county, took down
the twelve apostles in stone, and ordered between
twenty and thirty pictures to be destroyed, in this
church.
In St. Margaret's parish, on the site of Trinity
priory, a spacious brick mansion, called Christ
church, was erected, and surrounded with a pale,
by Sir Edmund Withipol, whose only child was
married to Leicester, Lord Viscount Hereford. His
successor sold the estate to Claude Fonnereau, Esq.
in whose descendant, the Rev. C. VV. Fonnereau, it
is at present vested. That gentleman, three or four
days in the week, allows free access to this park,
which is a most agreeable promenade, to the inha-
bitants of the town. It is much to be desired,
however, that some regulation were adopted — as at
Kensington gardens, for instance — to prevent the
intrusion of the rabble, on Sundays. Here is still
to be seen a bowling green, which was formerly a
necessary appendage to a gentleman's mansion. The
surface of the park, though not of great extent, is
pleasingly diversified. It is well stocked with deer.
St. Mary at Elms, is one of the four churches
dedicated to that saint now standing in Ipswich,
though in Domesday book only one is mentioned,
which is conjectured to be St. Mary at Tower. St.
Mary at Elms probably succeeded the dilapidated
church of St. Saviour, and is thought to have been
built on th« site of that edifice. — Opposite to the
church, is an alms-house for twelve poor women,
erected in 1760, in pursuance of the will of 3Irs.
Ann Smyth, who left 5000/. for this purpose.
St. Mary Key, at Kay, or, more correctly, at-the-
Quay, must have been built since 1448. — In this
parish, northward of the church, was a house of
black friars, Dominicans. The extensive site of this
convent was granted, in 1541, to William Sabyn,
but afterwards purchased by the corporation, with
the design of founding on it an hospital for the re-
VOL. iv. — NO. 162.
lief and maintenance of aged persons and children,
for the curing of the sick poor, and for the employ-
ment of the vicious and idle. It was confirmed to
them by charter, in 1572, by the appellation of
Christ's Hospital, and was at first supported by
annual subscriptions ; but afterwards the corpora-
tion made an order, that every freeman, on being
admitted to his freedom, should pay a certain sum
towards its support. — Part of this edifice is now
occupied as an hospital for poor boys, in which
they are maintained, clothed, and educated. Their
number is now only about seventeen : at the age of
fourteen they are apprenticed, chiefly to the sea. —
Another portion of the monastery was, till within
these few years, used as a hall, in which the quarter-
sessions for the Ipswich division were held ; and a
bridewell for offenders within the limits of the cor-
poration. Here is also a spacious room, now the
town library, the keys of which are kept by the
bailiffs and the master of the grammar-school, and
out of which every freeman has a right to take any
of the books, on giving a proper receipt. The books,
which have been chiefly bequeathed by different indi-
viduals, principally consist of ancient divinity, anti-
quity, &c. and are scarcely ever looked at, much
less read. — The cloisters are still entire ; and in the
spacious refectory, on the south side, is now held
the Free Grammar-school. The town had a gram-
mar-school as early as 1477, when it was under the
direction of the bishop of Norwich. In 1482, Richard
Felaw, who had been eight times bailiff, and twice
member of parliament for Ipswich, gave the produce
of some lands and houses to this institution, and also
a house for the roaster's residence ; but these pos-
sessions were alienated in 1528, at the request of
Cardinal Wolsey, and given to his new college in
this town. His short-lived institution was evidently
the cause of the charter afterwards granted by king
Henry for the present foundation. This charter was
renewed and confirmed by Elizabeth, who authorised
the corporation to deduct annually from Ihu fee-farm
payable by this borough, the sum of *24/. (is. Sd, for
the master's salary, and 14/. 6s. Sd. for that of the
usher, to which some additions have.since been innde.
The nomination of both (now united) is invested in
the corporation. In 1598, Mr. W. Smart, one of
the portmen, conveyed a farm at VViverstone, of the
yearly value of 19/. to Pembroke Hall, Cambridge,
for the maintenance of one fellow and two scholars
from this school, who are to be called after his name.
In 1601, Mr. Scrivener, who married Mr. Smart's
widow, settled on the same college an annuity of 21/.
for the erection of four new scholarships, to be filled
out of the free-grammar school at Ipswich. About
thirty boys are now educated here. — Another con-
siderable part of the buildings once belonging to the
monastery, is now occupied by the poor on Tooley's
foundation, established, in 1551, by Mr. H. Tooley,
a portman, and confirmed by charter. It was origin-
ally intended for the relief of ten poor persons only,
who were unfeignedly lame by reason of the king's
4 F wars,
298
SUFFOLK.
wars, or otherwise, of such as could not procure
a subsistence. Shortly before Mr. Tooley's death,
the annual income of the estate was no more than
one hundred marks ; it was between three and four
hundred pounds per annum, in the middle of the last
century; and, at this time, it is upwards of 1000/.
Sixty-four individuaJs receive half a crown each,
every Friday morning ; besides which, once in two
years, each woman has Qs. (id. allowed for linen ;
each man 12s. fid. ; each man and his wife I/. Is. Or/.
Once in two years, each woman has a stuff gown,
and each man a coat. They who have rooms are
allowed a chaldron of coals, and twelve faggots of
wood yearly. In case of sickness, further discre-
tionary assistance is allowed ; and a surgeon attends
when necessary.
On the quay, stands the Custom House, a small
but commodious brick building, in an unfrequented
apartment, contiguous to which is preserved a duck-
ing stool. — A malt-kiln on the quay, was anciently,
a house of Cistercian monks.
St. Mary at Stoke was given by King Edgar to
the prior and convent of Ely. This grant included
the hamlet, which takes in part of the parish of,
Sproughton, &c. In this parish is the manor of
Godlesford, now denominated Gusford Hall.
St. Mary at Tower church, where the corporation
attend divine service, was formerly adorned with a
handsome spire; and Mr. William Edgar, of Ips-
wich, left by will, in 1716, 200/. towards erecting
another ; but owing to some misunderstanding, the
money was thrown into chancery, where it still re-
mains.— In Upper Brook-street, or rather North-
gate-street, in this parish, is the house formerly inha-
bited by the archdeacon of Suffolk, and sometimes
called the Archdeacon's Place, or Palace. The origi-
nal edifice, of which the outer wall and gates seem
to have formed a part, was erected in 1471, by
William Pykenham, archdeacon of Suffolk.
St. Matthew's parish once contained four churches
or chapels, long since demolished or disused : these
were, All Saints, St. George's, St. Mildred's, and
St. Mary's. The site of All Saints cannot now be
ascertained, St. George's Chapel was used for
divine service so late as the middle of the sixteenth
century, when Mr. Bilney, who suffered martyrdom,
was there apprehended as he was preaching in favour
of the Reformation. The remains of this edifice have
been converted into a barn. Northward of St.
George's chapel, stood Ipswich castle, on the hills
which still retain the name of Castle Hills, though
the fortress was entirely demolished by Henry the
Second, in 1176, after the defection of Roger Bigod,
Earl of Norfolk. The supposed site is still apparent.
St. Mildred's Church, impropriated to St. Peter's
priory, was one of the most ancient buildings in Ips-
wich. Part of it was converted into a town-hull. Con-
tiguous to the hall was a spacious council-chamber,
still remaining-; below which, were the kitchens for-
merly used at the feasts of the merchants' and other
guilds, and supposed to have been rebuilt, or tho-
roughly repaired, on the restoration of Charles the
Second. Several years ago, a piece of the plaster-
ing in the middle of the front of the town hall near
the top fell down, and discovered a stone, on which
were quartered the arms of England and France*
much defaced by time. A board, of the same shape,
with a painting of the arms, was put over it at the
private expence of Henry Seekamp, Esq. one of the
portmen. The brick building at the end of the hall,
in the upper part of which the records of the cor-
poration are kept, appears to have been erected about
the year 1449. The prior and convent of the Holy
Trinity, in 1393, granted to the burgesses of Ipswich
a piece of ground in the parish of St. Mildred, 24
feet long, and 18 wide, the north end abutting on
the Cornhill. On this ground, the present edifice
alluded to was erected. Thus, it must be one of the
oldest brick buildings in the kingdom, as the date
assigned to its erection is earlier, by some years, than
the period usually considered as the sera of the intro-
duction of that material. Four or five years ago,
however, the town hall (otherwise St. Mildred's
church) being in a dilapidated state, was pulled
down ; and it was not until the 4th of June, 1818,
that the first stone of a new town hall was laid, upon
the site of the old one. On that day, the corpora-
tion having first attended divine service, in comme-
moration of his Majesty's birth, the ceremony was
performed, in a suitable manner, by E. Bacon, Esq.
the senior bailiff. In a cavity of the stone have
been deposited some of the coins of the realm. The
stone is thus inscribed : —
" This stone was laid the 4th of June, 1818.
" EDWARD BACON, > Raili,r.
" JOHN E. SFARKOW, ESQKS. J *
" B. B. G'Afx, Architect."
The building is expected to be complete in the
summer of 1819.
St. Mary's Chapel, commonly called our Lady of
Grace, said to have stood at the north-west corner
of the lane without the west-gate, still called Lady
Lane, was very famous for an image of the Blessed
Virgin, which, in Catholic times, had numerous
visitors, and to which, in old wills, many pilgrim-
ages were ordered to be made. In the third part
of the homily against peril of idolatry, this image
is mentioned, with that of our Lady of Walsingham,
and our Lady of Wilsdon, by the style of our Lady
of Ipswich. It was to this chapel that Cardinal
Wolsey ordered a yearly procession to be made by
the dean of his college on September the 8th, being
the Catholic festival of the nativity of the Virgin
Mary, the titular saint of Ipswich. This venerated
image, however, shared the fate of other relics of
superstition of the same kind, being conveyed to
London, and there publicly burned. The site of
the chapel is now covered with buildings. — In St,
Matthew's church-yard, beneath an altar monument,,
lie the remains of the late Lord Chedworth, of
eccentric memory.
The
SUFFOLK.
The church of St. Nicholas, ancientry impro-
priated to St. Peter's priory, not mentioned in
Domesday, is supposed to have been erected 1o
supply the place of the dilapidated church of St.
Michael. In this parish, on the south side of the
passage leading from St. Nicholas' Street to the
church-yard, stands the house, in which tradition
reports that Cardinal Wolsey was horn. The front
has been rebuilt, but the back and out-houses have
marks of antiquity. In 1917, it was purchased of
the late Mr. Itainbird, by Dr. Drake, of Iladleigh,
in this county (author of " Literary Hours," &c.)
but, instead of removing1 to Ipswich, as was then
his intention, lie has since sold the mansion to a
gentleman of the name of Carter, by whom it has
been converted into two handsome and convenient
residences. — Wolscy's father, in his will, bequeathed
Qs. Sd. to the high altar of St. Nicholas, and forty
shillings to the painting of the archangel there. —
Westward of the church, and on the bank of the
Gipping, stood a convent of Franciscan Grey friars
minors, founded in the reign of Edward the First,
by Lord Tibtoth, of Nettlestead, who, with many
of his family, was buried in the ahurch belonging
to this house. A small portion of this edifice, con-
taining some of the lower range of windows, and
part of the exterior wall, are yet to be seen in a
gardener's ground which now occupies its site. —
Another convent of White Friars Carmelites, partly
in this parish and partly in that of St. Lawrence,
was founded about the year 1279, by Sir Thomas
Loudham, and other benefactors. Part of it was
standing in the early part of the last century, and
served as a gaol for the county before the latter
agreed with the corporation for the common use of
their gaol by the west gate.
St. Peter's had large possessions in the time of
Edward the Confessor. It was afterwards impro-
priated to the priory of St. Peter and St. Paul,
which stood contiguous to the church-yard, and
was founded in the reign of Henry 'the Second, by
Thomas Lacy, and his wife, for black canons of the
order of St. Augustine. This order was suppressed
in 1527, by Wolsey, who desirous of bestowing some
marks of regard on the place of his nativity, and of
erecting there a lasting monument of his greatness,
resolved to build and endow a college and gram-
mar-school, to serve as a nursery for his new college
at O xford . For this purpose, he obtained bulls from
the Pope for the suppression, and letters patent from
the king for the site and estate, of the priory of St.
Peter and St. Paul, where, in the 20th Henry the
Eighth, he founded a college, dedicated to the honour
of the Blessed Virgin, consisting of a dean, twelve
secular canons, eight clerks, and eight choristers,
with a grammar-school ; and, for its farther endow-
ment, haprocured part of the possessions of the late
monasteries of Snape, Dodnash, Wike, Harkesley,
Tiptree, Romborough, Felixtow, Bromehill, Blyth-
burgh, and Montjoy. The first stone was laid with
great solemnity by the bishop of Lincoln, on which
occasion a grand procession was made through the
town from the college to the church of Our Lady
This noble foundation, however, was scarcely com-
pleted before the disgrace of the Cardinal, when
the building, with its site, was granted to Thomas
Alverde ; and, subsequently, to Richard Percivul
and Edmund Duflield. — No part of this college now
remains except the gate, which stands adjoining to
the.enst side of St. Peter's church-yard. Upwards
of half a century ago, the first stone was found in
two pieces, worked up in a common wall in Woul-
form's-lane, with a Latin inscription to this effect:
"In the year of Christ, 1528, and the 20th of Henry
the Eighth, king of England, on the 15th of June,
laid, by John, bishop of. Lincoln." This was John
Longland, who likewise laid the first stone of \Vol-
sey's college at Oxford; — This gate, with the excep-
tion of a square stone tablet, on which are carved
the arms of Henry the Eighth, is entirely of brick,
worked into niches, wreathed pinnacles and chim-
nies;i flowers, and other decorations, according to
the fashion of that time. It is supposed to have
been the great or chief gate ; yet, if so, the speci-
men ill agrees with the character given of the college
by the writer of Wolsey's secret history, who says,
it was a sumptuous building. The cardinal himself,
in an exhortatory Latin preface- to- Lilly's grammar,
then lately published, styles it "no ways inelegant."
This is the more remarkable, as at that period archi-
tects were extremely attentive to, and expended
great sums in the construction of gate-houses, which
they generally made superior in magnificence to the
other parts of the edifice ; and this was particularly
observable in all the buildings erected by this osten-
tatious prelate. This gate now leads to a private
house, in the apartments of which are some coats
of arms. The entrance is not sufficiently wide to
admit a carriage of any description. This relic of
antiquity has long had a great inclination to the
south. — " At Peter's," says the Journal of Dowsing,
the parliamentary visitor " was in the porch, the
crown of thorns, the sponge and nails, and the
Trinity, in stone, and tha rails were there, all which
I ordered to break in pieces." A curious font, how-
ever, of great antiquity, is still in preservation. —
In this parish stood the mansion granted in the reign,
of Edward the Sixth, to the bishop of Norwich, by
the appellation of Lord Curson's House. The strong
and stately brick porch belonging to this edifice was
demolished in 1760; it was subsequently known as
the Elephant and Castle, and is now a malt-kiln.
By a statute enacted in 1534, Ipswich was appoint-
ed for the seat of a suffragan bishop ; and the com-
mon notion is, that this house was intended for his
residence. Thomas Manning, prior of Butley, con-
secrated by archbishop Cranmer in 1525, was the first
and last suffragan bishop of Ipswich, after whose
decease, as it is supposed, this mansion was granted
to the bishop of Norwich. — In the suburbs beyond
the river, stood the church of St. Austin, near the
green of the same name. All the houses and land
on
200
SUFFOLK.
on the south side of the Orwell, at present forming
part of St. Peter's parish, are supposed to have
belonged to that of St. Austin. Not far from this
church, stood St. Leonard's hospital, now a farm-
house belonging to Christ's Hospital, Ipswich.
In Brook-street, St. Stephen's, was a mansion be-
longing to Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, on the
spot where now stands the Coach and Horses Inn.
— TheTankard public-house, in Tankard, orTaeket
Street, formed part of the residence of Sir Anthony
Wingfield, one of the executors of Henry the Eighth.
Some curious remains of the decorations of this
ancient edifice still exist, particularly in a room on
the ground-floor, the oak wainscot of which, curi-
ously carved in festoons of .flowers, formerly gilt, is
now painted blue and white. Here the arms of
Wingfield are yet to be seen ; the ceiling is of groin-
ed work ; and over the fire-place is a basso-relievo
in plaster, coloured, which uninterrupted tradition
referred, till a few years, since to the battle of Bos-
worth.* A more plausible idea, however, has since
been adopted, that this curious relic delineates the
Judgment of Paris, and its consequences, in five
compartments. t — On the site of another part, of
the mansion of the Wingfields, which, successively
served as a Catholic chapel for judge Wilton, in. the
reign of James the Second, and a dancing school,
has been erected a neat and 'Commodious Theatre.
Ipswich had the honour of first witnessing the
powers of Garrick, who, under the name of L,yd-
dal, is said to have made his first dramatic essay
on this stage, about the year 1739, in the part of
Dick, in the Lying Valet. The Ipswich theatre is
now in the circuit of the Norwich company, which
visits the town twice a year — in July, and at Christ-
mas.
This town has a spacious market-place, called
the Corn-hill, in the centre of which stood a hand-
some cross, and, on the south side, were commodious
shambles, first built by Mr. Edmund Daundy, in
the reign of Elizabeth. The vulgar notion, which
ascribes their erection to Wolsey, is erroneous.
They were taken down, not many years ago. The
cross was surmounted by the figure of Astrea, the
Goddes of Justice, bearing a pair of scales in one
band, and a sword in the other ; " intended, as we
* ThiSiinterpjetation is adopted by Gough, who describes it
as exhibiting " Leicester-town in one corner ; several warriors
in the, middle; Sir Charles William Brandon, who is supposed
to have lived here, father to Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk,
ami standard-bearer to the Earl of Richmond, lies dead by his
horse, and on the other side the standard ; at a distance seems
to be the ea.r(, with the crown placed on his head. by Sir WjJ-
liam Stanley ; in another is Leicester-abbey, the abbot coming
out of the porch to compliment the earl."
'•}• " In the first," says the writer, a correspondent of the Gen-
tleman's Magazine, in 1790, " he appears seated, habited js his
Phrygian robe and bonnet, amusing himself with his lute, when
the three goddesses present themselves. The next scene in his
adjudgment of the .prizes, when Juno, as queen of Heaven,
leads the way, followed by Venus disclosing all her charms,
and Pallas with the Gorgon's head and jEgis. Paris, won by the
are told, " for an emblem to put the magistrates in
mind of doing exact justice, and discountenancing
and punishing cheating oppression, and knavery of
all sorts." This structure, which was at once orna-
mental and convenient, without obstructing the pub-
lic way, was pulled down, under what pretence we
know not, about the close of the year 1811. Its
destruction was lamented by an Ipswich bard, in a
monody, of which the following are the closing
stanzas : —
';;'»(* .';' • / . ;>'!iti-
" No more the traveller shall its dome admire,
Its patron goddess, wjth her scales and sword ;
With Wolsev's gate no more its name inspire ;
Nor to the moralist a theme afford.
" From forth its canopy no more shall sound,
The trump of war, with terror's fierce acclaim,
Nor pomp heraldic scatter pleasure round,
And to the joyous crowd sweet peace proclaim.
" Peace to its manes ! doom'd no more to live,
Unless in memory's ever-fading page ;
Tiie mournful muse this verse alone can give,
A. feeble record for remoter age."
| vi\t, . 'i ii:i,v .(H.'// ,i; -• -i- •.'.!.•• .i'i''.. .:
On the Corn -hill, in the market-place, formerly
stood a rotunda, originally intended for a market-
house.; but having long been a mere nuisance, it was
taken .down in the year 1811, and a neat Corn-Ex-
change was immediately afterwards erected on its
site. — The history of the figure of Astrea, which for-
merly surmounted the market-cross, is somewhat
curious, reminding, us of the ancient doctrine of the
metempsychosis, or transmigration of souls. The
original destination of this deified substance' was that
of decorating a gentleman's grounds, in the vicinity
of Ipswich, under the semblance of Flora. Having,
for some years, filled the grateful office of watching
the " loves of the plants," and superintending the
loveliest forms of the vegetable creation, she was
removed ; and, by way of reward, it is presumed,
for her services, she was invested with the insignia
of justice, and raised to the top of the market-cross.
There, however, her labours did not terminate. She
was not consigned to oblivion, with the cross; for,
happening to possess an elegant exterior, the corpora-
tion gave her a new coat of white paint, placed a
golden sickle and wheat-ears in her hands, called
attractions of the goddess of love, and her assistant son, who
hovers above in the air, decrees to her the prize which he holds
in his hand. We next view him armed cap-a-pie, reclining
perhaps at the foot of the statue of his patroness, meditating
his conquest, his lance lying beside him, and his horse standing
saddled and bridled. The reclining warrior and the horse are
the only, figures in the piece that could possibly suggest the
idea of the battle of Bosworth : but the latter might with as
much propriety have been taken for the Trojan horse, as for
that ot Uichard the Third, or Paris for that king. Below, in
the left corner, we see Paris and one of his, friends, with horses,
preparing to carry off Helen ; and in the distance they appear
offering lip their vows in the temple of Venus, or perhaps
solemnizing their nuptials, while the horse or horses are wait-
ing without."
her
SUFFOLK.
301
her Ceres, and gave her an elevated situation, over ;
the entrance to the new Corn-Exchange ! On tins
occasion, the following "Impromptu" appeared in
THE SUFFOLK CHRONICLE: —
" Long, in Ipswich market place,
Astrsa look'd, with languid face,
Upon the proud Agrarian race,
Broken her sword, her scales uneven ;
Resolv'd that corn again shall rise,
Ceres the lofty space supplies,
And holds her" sample to the skies,
While scorn'd Asti sallies to heaven."
Amongst several replies which this waggish effu-
sions called forth, was the following:—
" When Ceres reigned on earth, in Nature's prime,
Nor scales nor weights, debased the golden time :
Vindictive, then, no sword did justice bear,
To take the life that Mercy lov'd to spare :
Peace beamed around, sweet plenty crowned the swain,
And joy and gladness blessed the fertile plain.
Herald to times, like those, the goddess smiles !
Displays the rich reward— the fruit of honest toils."
The town has been further improved by the erection
of a spacious and handsome new market -place, which
was finished in November, 1811. It occupies nearly
an acre of ground, and is contiguous to the old
Butter-market, an incommodious and narrow street,
where the principal market had usually been held.
It is composed of an outer and an inner quadrangle ;
round each of which is a piazza, or range of buildings,
supported by stone columns, affording shelter and
accommodation to persons attending the market,
who pay a small annual or weekly rent. In the centre
of the interior quadrangle is a fountain, the pedestal
of which is surmounted with a pyramid of Portland
stone, farming an obelisk about twenty feet in height.
On each side of the pedestal a bason is cut in the
solid stone, and supplied with water from a lion's
head above. The undertaking cost the proprietors,
(five gentlemen of the town) about 10,000?. It
was executed from the designs, and under the im-
mediate direction of, Mr. William Brown, architect,
of Ipswich.
The boundary-wall of the county gaol, situated at
the eastern extremity of the town, incloses about an
acre and a half of ground, and is twenty feet high.
In front is the turnkey's lodge, with a lead roof, on
which executions take place. It is creditable, how-
ever, to the morality of the county, that such events
rarely occur. From the lodge an avenue ninety-
eight feet long leads to the keeper' house, in the
centre of the prison, from which the several court-
yards are completely inspected. The prison consists
of four wings, to which are attached spacious airy
courts, about 75 feet by 45, and three smaller, about
41 feet square, in one of which is the engine-house,
as a provision against fire. The chapel is up one
pair of stairs, in the gaoler's house, and is surmount-
ed by a turret top with an alarum bell ; and here,
us well as in the prison, its inmates, both debtors
and felons, are kept separate, according to their
respective classes and sexes." The county has not
VOL. iv. — NO. 162.
hitherto we believe, provided employment ; but such
prisoners as can procure it from without, are allowed
to receive the whole of their earnings. The gaoler,
a man of distinguished respectability and humanity,
has a salary of 200/. per" annum, with an allowance
of coals and candles. There is also a chaplain, who
is paid 50/. a year ; and a surgeon is allowed 60/.
for his attendance on this prison and the House of
Correction. — The last mentioned structure occupies
an airy situation, near the County Gaol, and is sur-
rounded by a boundary -wall seventeen feet high.
It contains three court-yards, each 50 feet by 30, and
has a chapel in the keeper's house. — " The town and
Borough Gaol is situated in St. Matthew's-street.
The keeper's house fronts the street ; and behind jt
is the debtors' court-yard, 90 feet by 27, with a gravel-
walk. At the west-end of the building is a neat
little chapel, which has a regular chaplain, with a,
salary of 30/. The prisoners here employ themselves
in spinning, making garters, cutting skewers, and
such like occupations, and receive the full amount
of their earnings. Debtors are confined here upon
writs of capias issuing out of the Court of Small
Pleas, held for the town and borough every fortnight,
on a Monday." In Tavern Street, is an assembly
room, of good dimensions, but neither very handsome,
nor very well attended. An extensive piece of ground
however, has been purchased, in Northgate-street,
and preparations are now making (March, 1819) for
the erection of an elegant suite of rooms, intended to
comprise a ball and supper-room,, card-rooms, a,
news-room, a public library, upon a large and
liberal scale, and all the requisite offices. This will
be an important acquisition to the town ; which, if
we except its numerous book-clubs, is at present
exceedingly deficient in every description of literary
accommodation. There is, indeed, a subscription
news-room, at the White Horse Inn, and what is
termed a Public library, in the butter market ; but the
former is exclusively appropriated to the aristocratic
class ; and the latter is understood to be under such
exceedingly bad management, that the greater num-
ber of reading individuals in the town are deterred
from contributing to its support. To remedy these
evils, however, the " Ipswich Union Public Library"
was instituted, in the year 1817, and is in a very
flourishing state. The society has a good reading-
room, in the butter market, where several daily and
weekly papers, and the principal periodical publica-
tions are taken. A considerable number of books
has already been purchased, notwithstanding the
annual subscription is only twenty-five shillings.
On the morning of April 12, 1818, the neat stone
bridge, which connected Ipswich with the parish of
Stoke, at the junction of the Orwell and the Gip-
ping, was destroyed by a flood. From a heavy and
incessant rain, which fell the preceding afternoon
! and night, the Gipping overflowed its banks ; and,
by six o'clock in the morning (Sunday^ its waters,
which came down in resistless torrents, had flooded
the whole of the marshes near Ipswich, to an extent
4 e scarcely
302
SUFFOLK.
scarcely remembered by the oldest persons in the
neighbourhood. The flood continued to increase,
and to roll down so impetuously, that, about half
past eight o'clock, two of the arches of the bridge
•were carried away. Three men were standing upon
the bridge at this awful moment, contemplating the
swell and fury of the stream. They fell with the
bridge ; but, through an almost miraculous interpo-
sition, two of them were preserved, by means of a
rope which was thrown to their assistance. The
body of the third was thrown ashore a few days
afterwards, lower down the river.
In consequence of this accident, a temporary
bridge of boats was speedily formed, under the
^uperintendance of Mr. Cubitt, the engineer. This
is contrived so ingeniously, that, although it allows
the free passage of carts, waggons, &c. it does not
at all impede the navigation of the river.
It was found indispensibly necessary to remove
the whole of the old bridge, and to erect a new one ;
the first stone of which was laid on the 3d of Sep-
tember, in the same year, by the bailiffs, who went
in procession on the occasion from the Town-hall,
accompanied by several members of the corporation.
Some gold and silver coins of the present reign
•were deposited and secured in the stone, upon which
is the following inscription : —
STOKE BRIDGE.
FOUNDATION STONE
LAID, SEPTEMBERS, 1818,
BY
The new bridge, now in progress towards com-
pletion, will be a tasteful structure, of cast iron,
with a single arch, from a design by Mr. Cubitt,
engineer, who superintends the building.
Besides the churches of the establishment in this
town, there are three Baptists' meetings, one Uni-
tarians', two Independents', one Wesleyan Metho-
dists', one Quakers', and a Jews' synagogue.
Independently of the public charities, the religious
and benevolent institutions of this town are unusually
numerous ; as may be seen at large by the " Ipswich
Gifts and Legacies, Public Institutions," &c. a new
edition of which was published at the commence-
ment of the year 1819. At the Grey Coat, Blue
Coat, Red Sleeve, and Green Gown Schools, nearly
200 children are clothed and educated, and many of
them also lodged and fed. At the girls' Free-school
of Industry, established by Henry Alexander, Esq.
* In the hope that the plan of this society may be adopt-
ed in other parts of the county, we extract the foktowing ac-
count of it, from the " Ipswicli Gifts and Legacies,"" already
policed :— " None but married women are considered as eligible
to receive any benefit from, this institution. Every poor woman,
on her applicition being approved, receives a ticket, signed by
the president, snd addressed to the secretary, which procures
for her a set of Ikien at the time of her lying-in. But no appli-
cation is apprqved,whhout one of th« committee, or asubscriber,
certifying the distresses of the poor applying for relief, The
100 children, without respect to religious denomi-
nations, are educated, on the plan of the British
and Foreign School Society, and half of the num-
ber is clothed. By the Ipswich Education society,
from 130 to 200 boys are educated, and some of
them clothed ; by the Ipswich Female Charity School,
upwards of 80 girls are instructed in reading, writing,
arithmetic, plain work, &c. ; in the Ipswich Central
Schools of the Suffolk Society, for the education of
the poor in the principles of the established church,
upon Dr. Bell's system, about 300 boys and girls
are taught ; and, at eight different Sunday schools
in the town, about 880 children of both sexes, are
instructed.
The Ipswich Humane Society, for the recovery of
persons apparently drowned, is admirably conduct-
ed. l(s instructions, recommended to be used in
cases of apparent death, in the absence of medical
men, were drawn up by that truly able and benevo-
lent man, Dr. Williams ; and are incomparably the
clearest, simplest, and best that we have seen. — The
Public Dispensary, for the relief of the indigent
sick, is another excellent institution. — A mere enu-
meration of the following must suffice : — Charity for
the relief of poor widows and orphans of clergymen,
in Suffolk; — District committee of the Society for
Promoting Christian Knowledge ; Society for the
relief of necessitous Widows ,and Orphans of Pro-
testant Dissenting Ministers ; — St. Peter's, Stoke
Green Meeting, and General Bible Associations j —
Ipswich and Suffolk Church Missionary Association,
iu aid of the Church Missionary Society for Africa
and the East ; — Ipswich Ladies' Association, for the
education of African children ; — Suffolk Society in
aid of Missions ; — Baptist Missionary Auxiliary
Society ; — Wesleyan Missionary Association ; — As-
sociation for Promoting Christianity amongst the
Jews; — Society for superseding the necessity of
climbing boys, by encouraging a new method of
sweeping chimnies ; — three Friendly and Benevolent
Societies, for visiting and relieving the sick and
indigent ; — two Savings' Banks ; — one Female, and
31 Male Benefit Societies ; — a Penny weekly Club,
to assist the poor in the purchase of clothes for their
children ; — an Asylum for the reform of unfortunate
women ; — two Lying-in charities, each upon an ex-
cellent plan ; and, lastly, though amongst the highest
in the order of excellence, a Society for Clothing
the Infant poor. By this society, since its institu-
tion in the year 1812, nearly 1200 poor infants have
been supplied with warm and comfortable clothing.*
A small
set of clothing given, consists of one frock, one gown, two
skirts, two caps, two shirts, one blanket, one square of flannel,
two cotton wrappers, and three linen under wrappers. Every
poor woman who receives a ticket, pays one shilling for the
same ; and if her child does not live a mouth, she must return
the linen to the society, and one shilling is paid to her again.
The money received from the poor woman on the delivery of
the ticket," is divided amongst the different institutions for the
gratuitous education of the female poor in this town, in propor-
tion to the work done for the charity by each school.— The
busines1
SUFFOLK.
303
A small distance from the town, on the Wood-
bridgo road, extensive barracks were erected for
infantry and cavalry, during the late war, capable
of accommodating ten or twelve thousand men.
Since the peace, these barracks, which cost above
200,000/. have been pulled down, and the materials
were sold, by auction, on the spot, for less than
10,000/. Their site is now under cultivation.
The Ipswich rase-course is about a mile and a
half S. E. from the town. The races, which com-
mence on the first Tuesday in July, have been, of
late years, poorly supplied with horses.
Ipswich was formerly celebrated for its manu-
factures of broad cloth, and the best canvas for
sail-cloth, called Ipswich Double. While those
manufactures continued to flourish, it had several
companies of traders incorporated by charter, as
clothiers, roerchant-taylors, merchant-adventurers,
and others. About the middle of the seventeenth
century the woollen trade began to decline here,
and gradually dwindled entirely away. Favourably
seated for commercial speculations, and being a
great corn-mart, it has at length recovered this
shock, and is rapidly increasing in consequence and
population ; but the feeling of the more opulent part
of the inhabitants is unfavourable to the introduction
of manufactures. The principal traffic at present
is in malting and corn, the exportation of which, by
sea, is facilitated by thesestuary of the Or well, navi-
gable for light vessels up to the town itself, while
those of greater burden are obliged to bring-to at
Dunham Reach, three or four miles lower down.
The port is almost dry at ebb ; but the returning
tide, generally rising about twelve feet, converts it
into a magnificent sheet of water. Here are two
yards, belonging to Mr. Bailey, employed in ship-
building ; and, from one of them, on the 28th of Aug.
1817, was launched the Orwell, East Jndiaman, one
of the finest ships in the service, of more than 1335
tons. Her keel was laid in the beginning of May,
the preceding year. In the construction, upwards
of 2000 loads of oak timber, 100 tons of wrought
iron, and 30 tons of copper, were employed. — The
following statement will convey some idea of the
fitness of the port, for ship-building, and of the ex-
ertions of a single individual. From the year 1818,
when Mr. Bailey commenced business, till the launch
of the Orwell, he had built 82 vessels of various
descriptions, comprising, in the aggregate, 5873
tons; of which 6 were ships, 10 brigs, 9 sloops, 10
smacks and cutters, 3 schooners, and 3 packets, all
business of the society is regulated by a lady president, and
vice-president, and a committee of twelve ladies. The com-
mittee meets the last Thursday in every month, at eleven
o'clock, for the dispatch of business, at the Town-hall : on
which day the accounts are examined, petitions are received,
previous applications replied to, tickets issued for the delivery
of clothing to those women whose applications have been ap-
proved. The subscription, which is la. per week and upwards,
is quarterly, at 5*. and upwards yearly, at the option of the
subscribers."
for the Merchant Service ; and, for Government,
2 gunboats, 18 brig-sloops of war, 2 ship-sloops of
war, 2 corvette ships, 1 transport, 1 advice boat,
2 sailing lighters, and 11 gun-boats. In addition
to these, several fine vessels havesince been launched;
and it is a remarkable fact, in the history of naval
architecture that not one of the ships, built by Mr.
Bailey, has ever been affected with the dry rot.
This port formerly employed a number of vessels in
the Greenland whale fishery ; and a large building-,
at what is termed the Nova Scotia ship-yard, in
which the business of cutting up the whales, and
extracting the oil, was carried on, is still remaining.*
Certain vessels, called Ipswich Cats, of large ton-
age, and immense bulk, were formerly employed in
the coal-trade here. That trade is said to have de-
clined : Ipswich, however, still imports, annually,
more than 30,000 chaldrons of coals. Hoys, vessels,
fitted up for the accommodation of passengers, lik«
the Gravesend boats, sail every tide from Ipswich to
Harwich, and back again ; an excursion which is
rendered truly delightful, by the beauty of the river
scenery. " The Orwell, which, for its extent, is con-
sidered one of the finest salt-rivers in the kingdom,
is bordered on each side with gently rising hills,
enriched with gentlemen's seats, villages with their
churches, woods, noble avenues, parks stocked with
deer, extending to the water's edge ; and, almost
every object that can give variety to a landscape.
In the passage from Ipswich, the view is terminated
in front by the main ocean ; on the right, with a
prospect of Harwich, and the high coast of Essex ;
on the left with Languard Fort, and the high land of
Walton, and Felixtow cliff's behind it. On the return,
to Ipswich, the scene closes with a view of that
town, which appears to great ad vantage, accommoda-
ting itself in a sort of half-moon to the winding of
the river." — Queen Elizabeth, who several times
honoured Ipswich with her presence, once sailed
down the Orwell. In the succeeding reign of Mary,
Ipswich witnessed some of those cruelties which have
attached indelible disgrace to the memory of that
princess ; several individuals having been burnt in this
town for their adherence to the Protestant faith.
Amongst the eminent persons to whom Ipswich has
given birth, may be mentioned Thomas Wolsey, who,
; by means of distinguished abilities, and a fortunate
concurrence of circumstances, raised himself from
an obscure situation to the highest offices in the
church and statejt Ralph Brownrig, a celebrated
divine, of the seventeenth century ; Benjamin Lany,
successively
* On the 5th of November, 1816, was found off the buoy
of Ihe Rough, near Harwich, a dead female whale, which, ou
the 7th, was towed up the Orwell, as high as Dunham Head).
Its length was nearly 70 feet, and the diameter of its body about
18. Almost the whole population of Ipswich, as well as great
numbers from the vicinity, went to view this immense native of
the ocean.
f He was born in 1471 ; but it is not certain that his father
was a butcher. He received his education at the Ipswich
grammar-school, and at Magdalen College, Oxford. He was
presented
304
SUFFOLK.
successively bishop of Peterborough, Lincoln, and
Ely, who died in 1674; Clara Reeve, a lady who
presented in 1500 to Hie rectory of Lymington, by Henry
Grey, Marquis of Dorset, whose three sons were under his
tuition. Through the recommendation of this nobleman, he
was sent by Henry the Seventh on a mission to the Emperor
Maximilian, and on his return he was rewarded with the deanery
of Lincoln, and a prebend in that cathedral. His introduction
to the court of Henry the Eighth, he owed to Fox, bishop of
Winchester, whom he supplanted in his master's favour. He
successively became bishop of Tournay, in Flanders, which city
the king had just taken, a cardinal, bishop of Winchester, arch-
bishop of York, anil lord high-chancellor of England. The
revenues derived from all Ins places is said to have equalled
those of the sovereign ; and he expended them in a manner
not less magnificent. Among his retinue, composed of 800
persons, were many gentlemen, knights, and even individuals
of noble birth. He built the palace of Hampton Court ; and
York Place, in London, which afterwards received the name
of Whitehall ; and the foundation of Christ Church College,
Oxford, and of his college at Ipswich, attest his endeavours for
the promotion of learning. He aspifed to the papal tiara ; but,
disappointed in his hopes by the Emperor Charles the Fifth,
who had promised to support him, he revenged himself by pro-
moting the divorce of his master from Catharine of Arragon,
aunt to his imperial majesty. This affair, however, led to the
cardinal's downfal. The obstacles to the accomplishment of
Henry's wishes being too powerful for even Wolsey to remove
so speedily as the king desired, he incurred Henry's displeasure,
and being at the same time undermined by his enemies, he was
suddenly stripped of all his employments, banished from the
court, and apprehended for high treason. Having readied
Leicester on his way from York to London, death interposed
on the 30th of November 1533, and saved him from farther
humiliations.
* Of the life of this lady, who was born in the house, now
the County Press, in Tavern Street, belonging to Mr. King,
we find the following account, accompanied by an excellent
Portrait, in the " British Lady' s Magazine," for August, 1818;
a work which the publishers of Dugdalt's New British Travell-
er" most respectfully beg leave to recommend to the attention
of its fair readers:
" The maidc'ii name of Mrs. Trimmer was Kirby : she was
born in 1770, being the daughter of the late Joshua Kirby, Esq.
designer in perspective to his Majesty. Her grandfather was
Mr. John Kirby, who was originally a respectable school master
at Orford, in Suffolk, but afterwards occupied a mill at Wick-
liam-market, and distinguished himself by a survey of his native
county, and the publication of one of our earliest works on
topography, called the Suffolk Traveller, in the year 1735.
Hisson Joshua had then made himself known to the world as
an artist of genius, though originally settled as a house painter
at Ipswich at the early age of twenty-two.
" To trace the father of Mrs. Trimmer through his varied
life would be superfluous, any further than to state that he
married Miss Sarah Bull, of Framlingham, in Suffolk, by whom
lie had two children, William, and the worthy subject of our
present memoir, who was called after her inestimable mother,
from whom, in her infancy, Sarah imbibed the purest principles
of virtue and religion, which the example and instruction of this
best of parents, acting upon a mind well fitted to imitate and
receive them, easily brought to the highest pitch of perfection.
During her early youth, her father, in consequence of his taste
and genius, became acquainted with Gainsborough, the painter,
the contemplation of whose works increased his taste for the
arts. His friendship with Gainsborough led him to that of
Hogarth and Sir Joshua Reynolds, which induced him to
bring his family to the metropolis, and to settle there, where he
was toon taken notice of by his present Majesty, who not only
appointed him clerk of the works at Kew, but also took his son,
holds an honourable rank amongst the female writers
of the last century ; and Sarah Trimmer*, whose
11 umerous
William, under his immediate patronage, sending him to Italy
to pursue his studies, he being intended to practise as an architect.
" The youthful Sarah derived considerable advantages from
her successive removals to London, and latterly to Kew; but
slit was soon separated in some measure from her parents by a
union, at a very early age, with Mr. Trimmer, of Brentford,
when the duties of a wife and mother called into action those
inestimable qualities with which her mind was stored. Her
anxious parents were now delighted to find the early blossoms
of her worth rapidly expanded, and that the fruit which they
produced was of the fairest and most excellent description.
" Indeed her family now increased rapidly ; but never was
the arduous task of forming the mind of childhood and youth
performed with more unremitting zeal and alacrity. It has been
justly said, that well knowing how strict an account will be re-
quired of all who have such a charge intrusted to them, she left
no one point unattended to, which might hereafter prove of conse-
quence, yet her religion was not gloomy, and the success of her
endeavours was to her a never failing source of happiness and
delight. Notwithstanding such complete occupation of her
time by her family duties, Mrs. Trimmer yet found leisure to
attend to the wants and the welfare of others, and she began to
direct her thoughts to the employment of her pen for the use of
the rising generation ; but her views were in some measure
checked by domestic calamity, for, in 177 1, she lost her brother,
who died soon after his return from Italy ; three years after
which, in June, 1774, she lost her father, at the age of 58; and
in the ensuing year her mother, who died in her 57th year, in
August 1 775.
" Mrs. Trimmer's first publication came out in 17SO, as 'An
Easy Introduction to the Knowledge of Nature, and reading
the Holy Scriptures.' After this she published, ' Sacred History,'
in six small volumes ; a small ' spelling book ;' ' The Servants
Friend : The Economy of Charity ; Account of Sunday
Schools at Brentford; Commentary on Watts's Songs; Easy
Lessons for young Children; The Two Farmers, a Tale;
Cobwebs to Catch Flies; Sunday Scholars Manual ; Sunday
School Catechist : Fabulous Histories; Reflections upon the
Education of Children in Charity Schools j An Attempt to
Familiarize the Catechism ; An Explanation of the Office of the
Public Baptism of Infants; A Companion to the Prayer Book,
in two volumes ; and also the Guardian of Education, with many
others, of which our lair readers may find a correct list, with
some very just observations, in the Gentleman's Magazine for
January, 1810, but the insertion of which would far exceed our
proposed limits.
" Though her writings were so numerous, there is not one
which appears to have been undertaken with a view te promote
her own fame, nor to gain applause for herselt ; indeed she was
an eminent instance of humility, meekness, genius, and know-
ledge, all combined, for she ntjver considered herself as going
beyond her duty, though exclusive of her literary labours,
expressly for the purpose of instructing the children of the poor
in the principles of religion, and the duties of their station, she
devoted much of her time to other purposes of benevolence in
her neighbourhood ; in part undergoing much fatigue in several
instances, in order to secure the lower orders from the misery
and wretchedness of ignorance and vice. Indeed, it was to
Mrs Trimmer's exertions, that the town of Old Brentford, as
well as other parishes in that vicinity, are indebted for the
establishment of the Charity Schools and Schools of Industry,
which were carried en under her personal superintendence. In
the new school, in particular, built by subscription, adjoining
the chapel, she adopted the system of Dr. Bell, and brought it
to the highest degree offperfection ; indeed we have understood
that she paid particular attention to it, in order to show the
superiority of that plan over the one adopted by Joseph
Lancaster, the object of which was to instruct the scholars in
the
SUFFOLK.
305
numerous works, for the education and religious
instruction of the young and the poor, constitute a
durable monument in honour of her memory.
LACKFORD.] — Thehundred of Lackford is bounded,
on the north, by Norfolk ; on the east, by Black -
bourn hundred : on the south, by the hundreds of
Thingoe and Risbridg-e ; and on the west by Cam-
bridgeshire The western part is chiefly marsh
and moor land, and the western a sandy soil. Some
years since, a large portion of it was under water,
and 500 acres were let for one guinea ; but, in 1782,
owing to the successful use of a dredging machine,
called a bear, in cleansing rivers, and the improve-
ments of paring and burning, various persons began
to purchase in this neglected district, and, in Burnt
Fen, at the extremity of the hundred, westward,
14,000 acres have been completely drained, and
brought into cultivation.
Brandon, 44 miles N. N. W from Ipswich, and
78f N. N. E. from London, formerly enjoyed the
privilege of a market : itisa pleasant,well-builttown,
situated on the Little Ouse. In the vicinity, are
some extensive rabbit warrens, which contribute
largely to the supply of the London markets, one
warren yielding 40,000 rabbits each year. This
town gave name to the Brandons, dukes of Suffolk,
and a title to Charles Gerard, wlio was created, by
Charles the First, Lord Gerard, of Brandon. The
Duke ofHamilton was also created a peer of England,
by the title of Baron Dutton, and Duke of Brandon.
Simon Eyse, who erected Leadenhall at his own ex-
pence, and was Lord-mayor of London in 1445, was
a native of Brandon*
Downham, called also Sandy Downham, a village
situated on the little Ouse, was visited, in 1668, by
an irruption of sand, which arose from the dispersion
of some sand hills ut Lakcnheatii. In its first stage,
this extraordinary moving body did not cover more
than ten acres; but, increasing in. its progress, on
arriving at Downham, it buried and distroyed several
houses, and was at length, with difficulty, checked
by (he exertions of Thomas Blight, Esq. who, by -
raising banks nearly twenty yards high, and laying
the sacred scriptures without any further inculcation of religions
principles. The study, or rather reading of the scriptures,
she approved of; but she thought something more neces-
sary to form the Christian, and to direct the youthful mind
to the true knowledge of faith and morality, and to instruct
it in the selection of what is most conducive to a good life and
future salvation.
" All this however she did without bigotry or intolerance,
and thus she passed a pious and useful life until the llth of
December, 1809, then residing at Euling near Brentford, when
she was removed to a better world without experiencing the
infirmities awl the weakness of seventy years, or the pain and
suffering of a previous illness. For whilst sitting in her chair,
perusing the letters of a deceased friend, she sunk, as it were,
into a tranquil slumber; and so peaceful was her end, that the
moment when the soul was separated from the body could not be
precisely ascertained. A dissolution so free from pain, joined
to the general character of her life, gave rise to a report that she
had always prayed for such an exit ; but this was denied by the
Kev. Mr. Haveifield, who preached her fuueral sermon at
VOL. iv.— NO. 163.
[ upon it some hnndre.d loads of earth, rendered it
stationary, and was enabled to clear his premises,
which had been nearly buried by this remarkable in-
undation.
The small village of ElVidon gave the title of
Viscount to Admiral Keppel. The Hall is the seat
of the Earl of Albemarle, a very active and experi-
mental farmer, who, by improving and planting, has
changed the face of the desert which surrounded
him.
At Ereswell, besides the parochial church, was
once a chapel, dedicated to St. Lawrence, in which
was a chauntry of the yearly value of 9/. 4s. Qd. The
manor was held of the King, in capite.
Exning, or Ixning, is situated in a detached
portion of the county, with which it is connected
only by the public road. The church, a spacious
and neat building, with a lofty tower, contains a
square altar tomb of grey marble, for whom erected
is unknown. The windows are still adorned with a
few curious remains of stained glass. ' One division
of the town of Newmarket, and a part of the heath,
are situated in the parish of Exning.
Icklingham, situated on the river Larke, four miles
eastward from Mildenhall, includes two parishes
and two parish churches. In one of these are pre-
served a number of Roman bricks, ploughed up in
a neighbouring field ; and the ruins of a square
incampment, with the discovery of fibu/a and coins,
indicate the former existence of a Roman station at
this place.
Mildenhall, 42 miles N. W. from Ipswich, and
70 N. N. E. from London, which is the principal
town in the hundred, is a large, pleasant, and well
bxiilt place, of which several streets, called by the
inhabitants rows, are as large as ordinary villages.
The church, which is handsome and commodious, has
a richly carved roof of wood work, with a tower 120
feet high. It contains many monuments, principally
of the family of the Norths, to whom belonged an
ancient mansion, in the parish. The seat of Sir
Thomas Charles Bunbury, Bart.* was formerly
the residence of Sir Thomas Ilanmer, Speaker of
the
Brentford, on the 5th of January, 1310, after her remains had
been interred in the family vault at Ealing.
' -Mrs Trimmer left sereral children, but she suffered much
from the loss of one or two in her better days ; those now ahye
are in the greatest respectability ; and she had the satisfaction of
seeing them united by marriage with old established families of
the vicinity and neighbouring counties."
' Henry William Bunbury, Esq. (second son of the Kev. Sir
W. Bunbury, Bart, and brother to the present Sir Thomas
Charles Runbury) died May 7, 1811. Mr. Bunbury may be
regarded as the lather of the present generation of caricaturists,
the Sayers, the Gilrays, the Rowlandsons, &c. &c. but few of
them possess that faculty of delineating elegant forms which
distinguished him ; while at the same time he abstained from
that asperity, which toooflen marks, and sometimes disgraces
their production!. His " Long Minuet" at Bath, is a piece of
incomparable humour; so is his " Propagation of a Lie'';
nobody can view, without smiling, his " Long Story," hi
" Barber's Shop," his "Country Club," &c. &c. nor 'read hi
4 H
his
s
Hints
SOG
SUFFOLK.
the House of Commons, in the reign of Queen Anne.
Henry Barton, who was Lord Mayor of London, in
1428, wid William Gregory, who filled that honour-
abfe office in 1451, were born at Mildenhall.
LOBS.] -The hundred of Loes is irregularly
shaped, extending to a length of fifteen miles, and
varying, in breadth, from one to five. It is bounded,
northward, by Hoxne ; on the east, by Plomesgate ;
on the south, by Wilford ; and, on the west by the
hundreds of Carlford, Thredling, and Bosmere with
Claydon. .
Campsey Ash was formerly remarkable for a nun-
nery of the order of St. Clare, which was seated in
a pleasant vale, near the Deben. The possessions
of the house now belong to Jacob Whi thread, Esq.
and not a vestige of the building is visible. Ash
house is the property and residence of John Shep-
Earl Soham was once the property of the Earls of
Norfolk. The Lodge, an ancient and irregular
building of brick, surrounded by a moat, is the pro-
perty of John Ayton, Esq. of Missenden Abbey, in
Buckinghamshire.
The Lordship of Easton is the property of the
Earl of Rochford, by whose ancestors it was pur-
chased from Sir Henry Wingfield. The mansion is
handsome and commodious.
Framlingham, 18 miles N. E. by N. from Ipswich
and 88 N. E. from London, is of large extent, and
hi°-h antiquity. Its name, which is composed of two
Saxon words, Framling and ham, signifies the habita-
tion of strangers. It is pleasantly situated, on an
eminence near the source of the river Ore, which
forms a kind of were or lake northward from the
town. The church is a stately structure of black
flint, with a lofty steeple and appropriate decorations.
The roof of the nave is of oak, curiously carved,
and supported by a double colonade. Among other
persons of distinction, who have been interred in this
edifice, is the celebrated Earl of Surrey, who, on
some frivolous accusations, was condemned and
beheaded by the relentless Henry the Eighth : his
effigies, with that of his countess, reposes on a tomb
of black and white marble. The former is habited
in robes of state, over a suit of armour, but without
a coronet; the latter, in sable ; and the heads of both
figures are supported by double cushions, curiously
wrought and gilt. Ata little distance are the kneeling
figures of two sons and three daughters, habited,
suitably to their sex, in robes of state : on the south
side is the following inscription, in gold letters: —
flENRICO HOWARDO THOMJE SECVNDI DVCIS
NORFOLCIJE F1LIO PRIMOGENITO THOM« TERTII
PATRI COMITI SURRIJE ET GEOKG1ANI ORDINIS
EQ.VITI AVRATO IMMATVRE ANNO SALVTIS
MDXLVI ABREPTO, ET FRANCISCJE VXORI
E]VS FILIJE IOANNIS COMIT1S OXONIJE, HENR1CVS
HOWARDVS COMES NORTHAMPTON^ FIL1VS
SECVNDO-GENITVS HOC SVPREMVM PIETVT1S
IN PARENTEi MONUMKNTUM POSVIT,
ANNO DOMINI 1614.
On the west side of this inscription are the arms of
Howard, with his quarterings, within a garter, and,
above them, an earl's coronet ; on the east, the arms
of Vere, within a chaplet of laurel leaves. — A niche and
tomb, eastward from this monument, were designed
for, and probably occupied by, the effigies of an,
infant of the house of Howard. Near the last men-
tioned is a spacious monument of free stone adorned
with the figures of two wives of Thomas, Duke of
Norfolk, having, on their heads, ducal coronets, and
being clad in robes of state. As they were both
widows, their arms and crests are depicted on the
sides of the tomb between Corinthian coluius, and at
the four angles are as many lions Agfoamhich support
the arms of Howard. Southward from the last is a
tomb erected to the memory of Henry Fitzroy, the
natural son of Henry the Eighth, and curiously
ornamented with small images and fluted pilasters
of the Ionic order. The mother of this youth was
the widow of Sir Gilbert Talboyse. At the age of
six years, he was made a Knight of the garter, and
created Earl of Nottingham, Duke of Richmond%nd
Somerset, Lieutenant General beyond Trent, war-
den of the Scottish marshes, and admiral of England.
At twelve, he was made Lord Lieutenant of Ireland.
The companion of his studies and of his diversions
was Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, with whom he
contracted a strong friendship, and whose sister he
was to have married. He died in 1536, aged 17,
and was interred beneath this monument. Near the
altar, is a stately tomb of freestone, adorned with the
effigies of Thomas Howard, second Duke of Norfolk,
and of one of Lis wives, supposed to be the daugh-
ter of Edward Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, and
mother of the learned and unfortunate Surrey. It
is well known, that, notwithstanding the fidelity,
valour, and prudence, which the duke displayed in
the King's service, he was condemned by that jealous
monarch to an ignominious punishment, from which
he was rescued only by the tyrant's death. He died
in 1551. The other monuments which adorn the in-
terior of tiiis magnificient church are a table of black
marble, supported by angels, and inscribed to the
memory of Sir Robert Hitcham ; a mural monument
by Roubillac, to the memory of Jane, widow of
Thomas Keredge, of Shelley Hall ; with a few others,
remarkable neither for the beauty of their workman-
ship, nor the fame of the persons whom they were
intended to commemorate. On the western side oi
the river, are two almshouses ; one founded by Sir
Robert Hitcham, in 1031, ibr 12 poor persons oi
Framlingham, who receive two shillings a week each,
and forty shillings a year for firing; the other, by
" Hints to Bad Horsemen," without admiring his talent for
harmless ridicule. Mr. Bunbury was a gentleman, and a scholar;
and his accomplishments were various. His drawings exhibit
is mind ; he was lively but harmless ; he enjoyed conviviality,
ut detested ribaldry, he was pleasant in a high degree, but
nothing profane ever escaped his lips. Above all he was £
sincere Christian, and set, through life, an example of unaffected
piety, unmixed sincerity, universal good-will, and practical
piety
charity.
Thoiuat
SUFFOLK.
307
Thomas Mills, originally a tailor and afterwards
baptist preacher, for eight poor persons, who ar
allowed half a crown per week, and thirty shillings
per annum for firing. The former of these bene-
factors also founded a free school, with an allowanc
of 10/. per annum to a master, who is bound to in-
struct 40 poor children in reading1, writing, am:
arithmetic ; and 10/. to each scholar for the purpose
of binding him apprentice.
The venerable castle, with its eventful history, im-
parts the strongest interest to the town of Framling-
ham. Tradition dates its origin in the sixth century,
and ascribes it to Redwald, one of the earliest Saxon
rnonarchs. St. Edward the martyr fled hither, in
870, and was besieged by the Danes, who took
Framlingharn, and held it fifty years. At the con-
quest, this castle vras retained by the first two
monarcbs ; but granted, by Henry the First, to
Roger Bigod, whose grandson was, by Stephen,
created Earl of Norfolk, in gratitude for attesting
that Henry had with his last breath, declared Stephen
his heir. In the 3d of Edward the Second, Fram-
lingham reverted to the crown, and was granted, by
the King, to the half brother of his favourite Gaves-
ton, with the title of Earl of Norfolk, and marshal of
England. Framlingham then descended, by mar-
riage, to the family of Montacute, and afterwards
to that of Ufford. At last, after passing through
various hands, it came into the possession of that
Thomas Mowbray, who, by his quarrel with Here-
ford, occasioned to Richard the Second, the loss of
his crown and life. His widow, unable to defend
her possessions, exchanged her property near the
sea for an equivalent in Derbyshire with Henry the
Fourth, who granted the castle to Sir Thomas
Erpingham, and, afterwards, restored it to Thomas
Mowbray, son of the banished duke. That noble-
man, joining in a conspiracy against the King, lost
his estates, and Framlingham was granted toJPrince
Henry, afterwards the conqueror of France, who
kept his court here till the brother of the attainted
duke was restored to his possessions, by the merciful
policy of the King. His daughter was married to
Richard, Duke of York ; but as she and her youthful
spouse died early, her great possessions devolved to
the Lords Howard and Berkeley, descended from
the exiled Mowbray, the former of whorawas invested,
by Richard the Third, with the title of Duke of
Norfolk, and fell bravely fighting at his master's side,
in the battle of Bosworth Field. For his attachment
to the house of York, the Earl of Surrey was attaint-
ed, and Framlingham granted to John de Vere, Earl
of Oxford. Surrey, however, being afterwards rein-
stated, as a reward for his valour, at the battle of
Flodden Field, was created by Henry the Eighth
Duke of Norfolk. By the attainder of his son and
grandson, in a subsequent part of [that monarch's
reign, Framlingham reverted to the crown, but. was
restored to the Duke, by Mary, who retired thither,
on the decease of her predecessor. Thomas, the
eldest son of the ill fated Surrey, wa» bis successor,
who being convicted of treasonable designs, wa»
beheaded in 1572. Having once more reverted to the
crown, Framlingham was granted to Thomas, son of
the late duke, by James the First. In 1635, his son
sold the demesne to Sir Robert Hitcham, wiio gave
it to Pembroke Hall, Cambridge. In its present
state, this fine ruin is reduced to the shell of the
whole edifice, consisting of the outer walls, which
are nearly circular, and 44 feet high ; and thirteen
square towers, which rise 14 feet above the rampart.
Over the principal entrance, are the arms of Howard,
Brothert"ii,Warren, Mowbray, 3egrave, and Breos,
quartered on one escutcheon, and in good preserva-
tion. The walk comprehend an area of la. lr. 1 Ip.
in which not a vestige of a room remains. This
castle was strong by nature, and so fortified by art,
that it was defensible against all the various modes
of attack in use, before the discovery of gunpowder.
The park, which lay northward from the castle, was
divided, by Sir Robert Hitcham, into several rich
and fertile farms.
At Letheringham, was once a small priory of
Black Canons, which, having become the property
of Sir Robert Nauuton, secretary of state to James
the First, was converted by him into a dwelling
iiouse. It was demolished in 1770. The church
contains some elegant monuments of the Bovile,
Wingfield, and Naunton families, which have how-
ever been much injured, apparently by design ; and
the sacred edifice is much dilapidated.
Rendlesham is an ancient town, where Redwald,
King of the East Angles, is said to have kept his
court. Rendlesham House, purchased for 51 ,400/.
by P. T. Thelusson, afterwards Lord Rendlesham,
and the father of the present owner, ia a princely
residence.
Woodbridge, 8 miles E. N. E.from Ipswich, and
77 N. E. by E. from London, and seated on the
eastern side of a sandy hill, on the banks of the
Deben, which flows into the sea at the distance of
ten miles, was called, in Domesday book, Udebryge,
From which its present name is derived. The prin-
cipal streets, though narrow, contain some good
louses. The church, a spacious and noble structure,
s supposed to have been built in the reign of Edward
the Third, by John Lord Segrave, whose arms are
yet to be seen over the door of the steeple. The
external walls are of black flint, curiously variegated.
The roof is supported by ten beautiful Gothic pillars,
and four demy ones. A private chapel on the north
side was erected by Thomas Seckford, Esq. the
bunder of the alms houses which bear his name, and
otherwise a benefactor of the town. The tower,
which is 180 feet high, forms a conspicuous object
at sea. A fine organ was erected in this church, in
;he year 1818. Seckford's alms-houses, founded by
:he above-mentioned Mr. Seckford, who was master
of the Court of Requests, in the reign of Elizabeth,
were endowed by him with a revenue, which, in 1767,
amounted to 50;i/. for the benefit of 13 poor men and
I women, the former of whom receive 20/. each per
annum,
SOS
SUFFOLK.
annum, and the latter 12/. whilst the principal, has
a yearly allowance of 27/.
"Woodbridge has a Free Grammar School, for ten
poor boys, who are to be instructed in Latin and
Greek, and qualified for the university. The town
also contains a meeting for Quakers, and another for
Independents, three public Fire-offices, and two
Banks. A little theatre was built here in the winter
of 1813, and opened in the month of February follow-
ing, by Mr. Fisher, manager of the Norfolk and
Suffolk Company. It has been some time in con-
templation to build a bridge here, over the Deben.
The docks, wharfs, and quays of this town, from
which great quantites of corn are shipped, are very
commodious.
LOTHINGLAND.] — The hundred of Lothingland,
bounded, on the north and west, by the Waveny,
which separates it from Norfolk ; on the east, by
the German Ocean ; and, on the south, by the hundred
of Mutford, was formerly insular, and is now often
called the island of Lothingland. The sea, which
formerly joined the Waveney between Lowestoft
and Kirkley, receded considerably from that river
in the early part of the last century ; but it continued,
by its irruptions during the spring tides, to threaten
the country with inundation, until a breakwater was
erected capable of resisting the greatest violence of
the waves ; and, since 1717, these devastations have
ceased.
Burgh Castle, situated on an eminence, near the
confluence of the Yare and the Waveney, consists
of three sides of a parallelogram, 214 yards long
and!07 broad : the fourth side appears to have been
defended by the Yare, which once washed its ram-
parts. The walls, which are 14 feet high and 9
thick, and enclose an area of 4f acres, are of grout
work, faced, on the outside, with alternate layers of
Roman bricks, and cut flint, and buttressed, on the
eastern side, by solid, cylindrical towers, 14 feet in
diameter. At the south-west corner is a circular
mount, supposed to be the Pirsetorium. The work
is Roman, and thought, by Camden, to be the station
called Gariononum, of which the erection is fixed,
by Mr. Ives, in the reign of Claudius. The south
tower, having been undermined by some heavy rains,
fell, and discovered the foundation to have been laid
on oak planks, two inches thick. The entrance is on
the eastern side, and the adjoining field is supposed
to have been the common burial place of the garrison.
In 1756, a space, five yards square, was laid open
to the depth of two feet, when many fragments of
urns were discovered, with oyster shells, bones of
cattle, burnt coals, and other remains, which plainly
indicated this place to have been the ustrina of the
garrison ; one of the urns contained several coins of
Constantinus, and the head of a Roman spear. In
removing part of the Prsetorinm, urns and ashes were
discovered in abundance, and a stratum of wheat,
quite black, as if burned ; at the same time, was
found a spoon of silver, with a long and pointed
handle, which was probably used in eating shell fish.
Northward from this castle, are the remains of a
monastery founded by Fursens, an Irish monk, who,
with Felix, Bishop of Dunwich, collected a company
of religious persons and established them here. But
Fursens retiring into France, the house was deserted
by the monks, and soon after, inhabited by some
Jews.
Corton, situated on a high cliff, northward from
Lowestoft, was formerly much larger than at pre-
sent ; and contained, besides the parish church, a
chapel of ease, of which some remains are visible.
The body of the church is dilapidated, and divine
service is performed in the chancel. A parish called
Newton, once adjacent to Corton, has been swallow-
ed up by the sea, and no vestige remains, except a
stone denominated Newton Cross, and a small plot
of ground called Newton Green.
The church of Flixton, q. d. Felix-ton, or Felix
Town, is in ruins, its roof having been blown off in
the great storm, November 27, 1703. The walls
have been applied to the building of stables ; and the
font, having been split asunder, supports the two
ends of a hog-trough.
Gorleston, with the adjacent hamlets of South and
West Town, is called, in old writings, Little Yar-
mouth. It is remarkable for nothing but the ruins
of an ancient building, supposed, by Camden, to have
been a religious bouse, but whieh are, in reality, the
remains of the church of St. Nicholas.
Gunton lies northward from, Lowestoft,. and
besides the hall, which is a spacious and elegant
building, contains only two or three houses. In the
chancel of the church, which is a small and plain
structure, is a mural tablet, inscribed to the memory
of Charles Colby, Esq. who having entered early
into the Navy, and spent a long life in the service of
his country, died here, at the mansion of his friend,
Admiral Sir Charles Saunders, December 28, 1771,
aged 70.
At Herringtfeet, was a priory of Black Canons,
some remains of which are still distinguishable. The
bridge was built, in 1770, in the place of one founded
by Lady llobart, in the reign of Henry the Seventh.
Before that period, there was a ferry over the
Waveney.
Kirkley, situated on the southern bank of the lake
of Lothing, is principally supported by its fishery,
which was once very considerable. The church
being in ruins about the middle of the last century,
and the minister refusing to perform divine service
in the neighbouring church of Pakefield, for the
benefit of his parishioners, the Rev. Mr. Tanner,
vicar of Lowestoft, fitted up the present church,
thus compelling the reluctant minister to do liis
duty.
Lowestoft, 45 miles N. E. by N. from Ipswich,
and 114 N. E. by N. from London, the only mar-
ket-town in this hundred, is situated on the most
easterly point of the English coast. It consists of
one principal street, so placed on a summit of a
cliff, that the houses, on one side, face the sea.
The
SUFFOLK.
The declivity is covered with pleasant gardens and
arbours ; and, at tb« foot, is a long range of build-
ing's, for the purpose of curing tish. The town
having become a place of resort ior invalids, bathing-
machines are kept for their use, and the beach,
which is a hard sand, perfectly free from mud, is
useil as it delightful promenade. The parochial
church, situated halt a mile from the town, is adorn-
ed with a lofty tower and spire, 120 feet high. Its
principal entrance is a sutcly porch, on the ceiling
of which is a representation of the Trinity, and two
shields, bearing the reed and spear in sa/tire, with
the scourge, nails, and scroll for the inscription. A
chamber over this porch is called the Maid's cham-
ber, from a tradition, that two maiden sisters re-
sided there in religious seclusion. The font is very
ancient, and curiously ornamented with two rows of
saints. This edifice contains many monuments of
eminent persons. In the chancel was interred Tho-
mas Scroope, bishop of Dromore, and vicar of this
parish, who died in 1491. This prelate, descended
from the noble family whose name he bore, was
originally a Benedictine, and, afterwards, a Domi-
nican friar; but, having embraced the stricter dis-
cipline of the Carmelites, and resided twenty years
in his convent, he was appointed to the see of Dro-
more, in Ireland, alter which be made a pilgrimage
through the eastern counties of England, instruct-
ing the people in the principles of true religion,
and died at Lowestoft, aged little less than 100
years. In the chancel was also interred James
Howard, son of the Earl of Berkshire, who died
in his 21th year, in consequence of the wounds which
he received in the sea-fight, with the Dutch, off
Lowestoft, June 3d, 1665. On a white marble stone,
near the chancel, is an inscription, in memory of the
Rev. John Tanner, who wa» fifty-one years vicar
of Lowestoft, and, sometime, commissary and official
to the archdeaconry of Suffolk. He was the brother
of bishop Tanner, and completed the second edition
of that prelate's Natitia Manas tica, which he bad
left unfinished at his death. He died in 175!), aged
75. Various tombs in this church were erected to
the memory of naval heroes, natives of Lowestoft.
A large marble tomb, in the south aisle, has the
following inscription :
"Sacred to the memory of
Sir JOHN ASHBY, Knight,
Prefect of the Courts jif Sandgate.
On whom, for his unshaken fidelity, and approved-of
Valour, in the engagement with the French at
BANTREE BAY,
Where he gloriously fought for his King and Country,
His Majesty conferred the honour of knighthood..
• I •• It
* This gallant officer first distinguished himself by the cap-
ture and destruction of a French convoy, in Granville Bay,
July 1704; and, in the following month, he earned never-
fading laurels in the hard fought engagement with the French,
off Malaga. In 171 1, he captured a French ship of 50 guns,
in Hie Mediterranean. His last active service was the conduct
»f the expedition against Vigo, in 1719.
VOL. IV.— NO. 163.
He afterwards gave many signal examples of his bravery,
and skilful ness in naval affairs,
By which he obtained the post of Admiral and Commander
in chief of the Royal Navy, and General of Marines.
Adorned wi'h these honours,
He exchanged c-arihly glorv for immortality,
IStbJuly, 1693."
Westward from this monument, is one to the
memory of James Mighells, Esq. vice-admiral and
comptroller of the navy, who died in 1733, aged
69.* A handsome monument of white marble is
inscribed to the memory of captain Thomas Ar-
nold, who served in the navy forty years, and died
in 1737, aged 58. f In this church also is interred
the Rev. Robert Potter. F. R. S. and A. S. the
poetical translator of ^Eschylus, Euripides, and
Sophocles. He died 'in 1804, aged 84. In the
church-yard is an elegant pyramid, erected in me-
mory of John Barker, Esq. one of the elder brethren
of the Trinity House, a governor of the London Assu-
rance Company, vice-president of the Magdalen,
and a director of Greenwich Hospital. He was a
great benefactor to Lowestoft, his native town, and,
at his death, in 1787, at the age of 80, he was in-
terred here with great funeral pomp. Lowestoft has
a chapel, built, in 1787, by a subscription of the
inhabitants. Near it is the Corn -cross, which, as
the market is no longer held there, serves as a porch
or entry to the chapel. The Free Grammar-school
was founded by Mr. Thomas Annott, merchant, in
J570, and endowed with lands of the value of twenty
marks yearly, for the instruction in the Latin tongue
of 40 boys born in Lowestoft, the deficiency, if any,
to be made up from the residents, and afterwards
from the half hundreds of Mutford and Lothingland.
Another was endowed, in 1735, by Mr. John Wilde,
of Lowestoft, with an estate at Worlingham, and
land in this town, for the instruction of 40 boys in
reading, writing, arithmetic, and the Latin tongue.
There are two Light-houses for the safety of vessels
entering the roads ; the upper, a circular tower of
brick and stone, 40 feet high, and 20 in diameter,
was erected in 1676 ; the lower, of wood, is made
moveable, for the purpose of guiding vessels through
the Stanford channel, which never remains stationary.
The herring-fishery is the source of commerce to
the town of Lowestoft. In 1781, thirty-three boats
were employed, which caught annually twenty-one
lasts each. Afterwards the number amounted to
forty-four. Each boat carries forty tons, and eleven
men ; and will sometimes gain 1000/. in a season,
which begins about the middle of September, and
continues two mouths. The fish is salted as fast as
it is taken, and, when lauded, it is washed, and
t When Lieutenant of the Superbe, Mr. Arnold, having
advised the captain to board the Spanish Admiral in an action
off Sicily, was appointed 4.0 head the party, and although he
lost an arm in the eulerprize, he had the satisfaction of carrying
his antagonist.
2 t dried
SUFFOLK.
dried by smoaking. It is exported in barrels, each
«f which contains 800 or 1000 herrings. The roac-
karel fishery, which begins and ends with the month
of June, employs between twenty and thirty boats.
Lowestoft formerly fitted out thirty boats for the
whale-fishery, but their want of success caused it
to be relinquished. The town has been visited
several times by the plague, and has suffered much
by fire and tempests. A bloody battle was fought
off Lowestolt, June 3, 1665, between the Dutch
fleet, of 102 men of war, and 17 fire-ships, under
Opdam, and the English fleet, of 114 men of war,
and 28 fire-shipi, commanded by the Duke of York.
The engagement began at three in the morning, and
•continued with little intermission till seven in the
evening, when the Dutch were completely defeated.
The Duke of York engaged the Dutch admiral,
whose ship blew up in the middle of the action, and
caused such confusion, that four of their ships ran
foul of each other and were destroyed. Eighteen
of the enemy's ships were taken, and fourteen sunk
or burned, and their loss in men amounted to 4000
killed, among whom were the admirals Opdam,
Cortenaer, and Stellingwort, and about 500 volun-
teers of the best families in Holland, with 2000 taken
prisoners, of whom 16 were captains. The Eng-
lish lost one ship of 46 guns, and 250 men, among
whom were admirals Sampson and Lawson, and cap-
tains the Earls of Marlborough aud Rutland. The
number of wounded did not exceed 350. Sir Tho-
mas Allen,* and Sir Andrew Leake,t celebrated
naval commanders ; the former after the Restoration,
and the latter about the beginning of the last cen-
tury, were natives of Lowestoft. Thomas Nash,J
an author of some reputation, was also born here,
in 1558.
The church of Oulton, a village situated west-
ward from Lowestoft, was originally in the form
of a cathedral. Of the transepts, one is in ruins,
the other was the property of the Falstolfs, a family
of considerable note. In the chancel are the brazen
effigies of John Fastolf and his wife Catharine,
with the inscription : —
JOHN FASTOLF, esquyer died 1445, and
KATEREN, his wyef, doghterof Bedingfelde, 1478.
In 1766, a House of Industry was erected, in this
* During the Protectorate, Sir Ttiomas was attached to the
Royal cause, and, after the Restoration, was appointed com-
mander-in-chief in the Mediterranean. There he commanded
a fleet of eight ships, aixl,. falling in with the Dutch Smyrna
fleet of forty vessels, convoyed by four men of war, he cap-
tared four of the richest. After the battle of Lowestoft, in
1665, and another off the North Foreland, in 1666, in both
of which he bore a distinguished part, he was sent into the
Mediterranean to chastise the Algcrines, and, returning victori-
ous, was created a baronet, in 1669.
•f Sir Andrew Le ike was appointed to the command of a
ship, in 1696; and, in 1700, was sent to Newfoundland for
the protection of the fishery. In the attack on Vigo, his ship,
the Torbay, of 80 guns, broke the boom, and his gallant cou-
parish, for the incorporated hundreds of Mutford
and Lothingland, at an expence of 3000/. It is
capable of containing 201) persons, who are em-
ployed in making nets for the herring fishery, and
in spinning.
Pukefie'ld is situated eastward from Kirkley, on
the summit of the cliffs which bound the German
Ocean. The font, in the church, is curious and
antique. The Rev. Dr. Leraati placed over it a
model of the tower and spire of Norwich cathedral.
In a barrow, on Bloodmore-hill, near Pakefield, a
skeleton was found, in 1708, round the neck of
which hung a gold medal, and an onyx, set in gold.
Round the medal was a legend D. N. T. AVITVS ; on
the obverse, a head helmeted, the shoulder deco-
rated witii a cross ; on the reverse, VICTORIA AVGGG.
with a rude figure of victory ; exergue CONOB. On
the onyx was a man, standing by a horse and hold-
ing the reins ; with a fiasta pura in his right hand,
aud a star in his helmet.
Somerliton, commonly called Somerley, is re-
marknble for an ancient mansion called the Hall,
whither Sir Thomas Allen retired after the arduous
fatigues of his naval career. In the church is a
monument to the memory of Sir Richard Jernegan,
who is represented cross-legged, in imitation of the
Knights Templars, with this inscription :
Jesus Christ, both God and man,
Save thy servant Jernegan.
MUTFORD.]— The hundred of Mutford is bounded,
on the north, by the lake of Lotbing ; on the east
by the German Ocean ; on the south, by Blithing ;
and on the west, by the Wayeney, and the hundred
of Wangford.
The church of Gisleham, five miles from Lowes-
toft, is thatched ; but it contains seme interesting
relics of the ancient religion. The windows con-
tain fragments of painted glass, some representing
St. Edmund, and others his attributes, the crown
and arrow.
Kessingland was formerly privileged with a week-
ly market, and was a place of some importance.
The church is partly in ruins, and was entirely so
till, in 1694, a small part was rebuilt for a place of
worship. The steeple is lofty. The font is ancient,
and adorned, on each of its eight sides, with the
duct procured him the honour of knighthood. In 1705, he
commanded the Grafton of 70 guns, in the attack on Gibraltar,
and in the engagement off Malaga, he led the van of the
division ; but received a wound, ot which he expired during
the action.
{ Among the productions of this poet is one entitled " Len-
ten Stuffe, or Praise of the Red Herring, fitte of all Clearket
of all Noblemen's Kitchens to be read, and not unnecessary
by all serving-men that have short board wages to be remem-
bered," 1599, 4lo. of which Swinden observes, that it was a
joke upon our staple and herrings. Three of his pieces are
preserved in the British Museum, twenty-four in the kina's
library, and seven in that of the Marquis of Stafford.
figure
SUFFOLK.
311
figure of a saint, one of which represents St. Ed-
mund, the patron of the church. A small structure,
of freestone, with buttresses, appears to be the re-
mains of a religious house.
PLOMESGATE.] — The hundred of Ploines^ate,
bounded, on the north, by Hoxne, and Blything;
on the east, by the German Ocean ; and on the south
and west, by the hundred of Locs, contains twenty-
four parishes and hamlets.
Aldborough, 25 j miles N. E. by E. from Ipswich,
and 94{ N. E. by N. from London, derived its name
from the Aide, between which river and the sea it
is situated, under shelter of a steep hill. This place
was once of greater size and importance than at
present, but repeated encroachments of the sea had
so depopulated and impoverished it, thnt, till about
twenty or thirty years since, when it became a place
of fashionable resort, it was hastening1 to complete
decay. It now contains some neat, and elegant
mansions, the property of persons of rank and for-
tune. Among these, the seat of the Crespigny family,
and the Cassino, a favourite summer residence of
the Marquis of Salisbury, are much admired. As a
watering-plaoe, Aldborough possesses peculiar ad-
vantages. The principal street is parallel with the
beach, and not more than fifty yards from it, and,
during the time of ebb, the strand affords a fine
walk, as the sand is hard and firm. A fine terrace,
on the summit of the hill, commands a sublime and
beautiful prospect of Aldborough and Hollesley
bays, and the rich country on the banks of the Aide,
which, after approaching this place, makes a sudden
turn, and falls into the sea at Orford. The govern-
ment is entrusted, by charter of Charles the lid. to
two bailiffs, ten capital and twenty-four inferior bur-
gesses, with the privilege of electing an unlimited
number of freemen. Two members are returned to
parliament, by the bailiffs and burgesses resideut
within the borough, about thirty in number. The
church stands on the hill, at the northern extremity
of the town ; it is ancient, hut contains nothing in-
teresting, either in monuments or architecture. The
herring-fishery was not carried on very extensively,
after the suspension of intercourse with Holland,
but it has been resumed.
Benhall was the property and residence of the late
Admiral Sir Hyde Parker. The lodge was built
in 1638, by Sir Edward Duke, then lord of the
manor.
Bruisyard had a collegiate chauntry, for a warden
and four secular priests, afterwards changed into a
nunnery of the order of St. Clare. It is now the
property of Lord Rous.
Butley, four miles from the sea, and three from
Orford, is famous for a priory of Black Canons of
the order of St. Augustine, founded in 1171, by
Ranulph de Glanville, who, on being removed from
hi* office of Justiciary of England, took the cross,
and was present at the siege of Acre. At the Dis-
solution, the endowment of the priory was very
ampto. The building was uncommonly magnificent,
| and the gate-house, which remains entire, is ele-
gantly decorated with coats of arms, cut in stone.
Southward from the gateway are the remains of
other buildings, in one of which, -.in ancient chapel,
was discovered a chest of money, deposited in the
wall. The whole extent of walls and ruins covers
an area of twelve acres.
Glenham Parva gave name to a fmnily, nowextinct,
of which two members rose to great eminence in the
turbulent period of the seventeenth century. Sir
' Thomas Glenham was educated nt Oxford, and first
served in Germany. In the civil war, he took part
with the King, and, having taken York, continued to
defend it with the greatest bravery for eighteen
weeks, till (lie victory of Marston Moor obliged him
t« capitulate upon honourable terms. He next went
to command the garrison at Carlisle, which he de-
fended nine months, amidst the horrors of pestilence
and famine, and on his surrender, obtained honour-
able terms. He then went to defend Oxford, which
he prepared for a rigorous resistance, and sur-
rendered only by the express orders of his master,
having obtained favourable terms. Being imprisoned,
he fled to Holland, where he died in 1649. He was,
however, interred here. Henry, his brother, was
bred to the church, and being attached to the royal
cause, was deprived of all his preferments. At the
Restoration, however, he was rewarded with the
deanery of Bristol ; and afterwards with the bishopric
of St. Asaph, which he survived only two years,
dying in 1609.
Orford, 20 miles E. byN . from Ipswich, and 90 N.
E. by E. from London, like many other towns on this
coast, once enjoyed a degree of importance, which
it has gradually lost ; it continues, however, to send
two representatives to Parliament, and is governed
by a mayor, eight portmen, and twelve chief bur-
gesses. The title which it confers, having become
extinct, in the family of Sir Robert Walpole, was
granted, in 1806, to Horatio Walpole, Baron of
Wolterton, The castle, seated on an eminence west-
ward from the town, is supposed to have been once
situated in its centre; and, as large quantities of
building materials, and some remains of houses, are
visible, there appears to be truth in the conjecture.
The keep of the castle alone remains, a polygon of
eighteen sides, flanked by three square towers, at
equal distances. The walls are twenty feet thick,
and ninety high. Two circular ditches formerly
defended this building, and a circular wall, part of
which remains. The keep contained one room on a
floor, and was divided into four stories, the ascent
to which is by a spiral stair-case. An incredible
story is related by some ancient writers, which only
proves the existence of this castle at an early period.
It is as follows : — " In the sixth year of John's reign,
some fishermen of Orford took, in their nets, a sea-
monster, resembling a man in size and figure. He
was given to the governor of Orford Castle, who
kept him several days. He had hair on those parts
of the body where it usually grows, except on the
crowu
312
SUFFOLK.
crown of the head, which was bald; ;»nd his beard
was long arid ragged. He ate fish and flesh, raw or
cooked, but when raw, he first pressed it in his
bands. He could not be made to speak, though to
force him to it, the governor's servants tied him up
by the heels, and cruelly tormented him. lie lay
down on his couch at sun-set, and rose again at sun-
ruing. The fishermen carried him one day to the
sea, and let him go, having first spread three rows of
strong nets to prevent his escape ; but diving under
them, the animal Appeared beyond these barriers,
and seemed to deride his astonished keepers, who,
giving him up tor lost, returned Irorae, whither, how-
ever, they were soon followed by the monster. He
continued with them for some time ; but, being, as
we are told, weary of living ashore, he watched an
opportunity, and stole away to sea." The porch of
the church, which, when entire, was a large and hand-
some building, is adorned with shields, and a cross.
The tracery of the windows, also, is fine. The
. chancel, which is in ruins, appears to have possessed
beauty superior to the rest of the edifice, and to be
of a date anterior to the castle itself. The remains
consist of some circular arches, supported by columns
twelve feet high, and as many in circumference.
There is great variety in their decorations, uo two
.being alike. These are, in general, four or six
cylindrical mouldings, like small extraneous columns,
sometimes perpendicular, at others spiral ; in some,
they are made to cross like net or lozenge-work, anil
in others, interrupted, or continued only on alternate
courses of the stones in the shaft. The font in this
church is elegant and apparently ancient. The
assembly-house at Orford is a plain brick buiWing,
now little used ; and the town hall is neither ancient
nor handsome. The decline of the town is attributed
to the loss of its harbour, by the retirement of the
sea, and the formation of a dangerous bar at its
mouth. — Near Orford, is Sudborne Hall, belonging
to the Marquis of Hertford, who is the proprietor of
the borough. It was from this seat, on a visit to the
Marquis, that the Prince Regent was sent for, pre-
viously to the lamented dissolution of his daughter,
the Princess Charlotte of Wales, consort of Prince
Leopold, of SaxeCobourg.
Parham was the property of the Uffbrds, Earls of
Suffolk, and afterwards of the Willoughbys, who, in
the reign of Edward the Sixth, were created Lords
of Parham. . This title is now vested in Lady Gwy-
dir, daughter and co-heir of Peregrine, Duke of
Ancaster. This village had, like Glastonbury, a
thorn, which budded at Christmas, and, strange to
'tell, accommodated itself to the alteration of the
style, by anticipating the usual ungcnial period of
blossoming, eleven days. Parham was the birth
'place of Joshua Kirby, F. R. S. and A.. S. designer
in perspective to their Majesties. He was the son
of Kirby, author of the Suffolk Traveller, and the
father of the, late Mrs. Trimmer.
Sapen had formerly a monastery of Black Friars,
founded iu 1099,. The church contains an aucieiit
and curiously ornamented font. It is hexagonal,
supported by a group of Kings and prelates, and has
at each angle, a column, with figures bearing scrolls.
Saxmundham, 21 miles N. E. by N. from Ipswich,
and 90 N. E. from London, is situated on a hill;
the streets are narrow and unpaved ; and the town
, is not enlivened by trade or manufacture. Hurts Hall
, the mansion of the late Charles Longe, Esq. consists,
i in front, of three semi-circular projections, and con-
' taining, among other elegancies of internal tlecora-
I tiou, a geometrical stair-case. The grounds are
embellished with a fine piece of water, and well planted
with trees. The church, situated near this mansion,
contains a few family monuments.
RISBRIDGE.] — The hundred of Risbridge, situated
at the south-western extremity of the county, is
bounded, towards the north, by Lackford ; on the
east, by Thingoe and Babergh ; on the south, by
Essex ; and on the west, by Cambridgeshire.
The village of Barnardiston gave name to a family,
from which sprang branches resident at Kedington,
Brightwell, and Wyverston. It was also one of the
manors, given by Thomas de Woodstock, sixth son
of Edward the Third, to the college of Pleshy in
Essex.
Clare, 30 miles W. byN. from Ipswich and 55f
N. E. by N. from London, seated on the Stour, and
once of considerable importance, is still populous,
but interesting only for the remains of its castle,
which indicate much splendour and strength. The
walls enclosed an area of twenty acres, within which,
on the summit of an eminence, stood the keep; a
^fragment of which, with a small part of the wall,
alone, remains. It is supposed to have been founded
during the Heptarchy, but mention is no where
made of it, till about two centuries after the reign
of Egbert. The first person who bore the title of
Earl of Clare, or Clarence, was Richard, the uncle
^of Richard Strongbow, Earl of Pembroke,, who,
after marrying an Irish princess, died in his new
possessions, and was succeeded in his English estates
by his relative. The fourth in descent from the
first earl married the famous Joan of Acres-, daughter
of Edward the First, and, dying, left a sou and three
daughters, with the first of whom the title became
extinct. One of the sisters built and endowed Clare-
hall, Cambridge. Lionel, the third- son of Edward
the Third, was created Duke of Clarence, but he
dying without male issue, the title lay dormant till
Henry the Fourth conferred it on his second son,
Thomas, who was slain in France, during the wars
of his brother with that Kingdom. It was again
revived by Edward the Fourth, in favour of his
brother, George, whose history is well known. After
his death, the honour of Clare lay dormant, till
James the First created Sir John Holies, of Hough-
ton, in Nottinghamshire, Earl of Clare. After his
descendants had attained the dignity of Marquis of
"Clare, and Duke of Newcastle, the tide again became
extinct, and was not revived till 1789, when his
present Majesty conferred the dukedom of Clarence
SUFFOLK.
313
on his third son, prince William Henry. Near the
ruins of the castle, stands Clare priory, now occu-
pied as a dwelling-house, but formerly a monastery
of canons of St. Augustine. In tne church of this
priory, which is now converted into a barn, was
interred Joan of Acres, whose funeral was attended
hy Edward the Second, and many of the English
nobility. Lionel, duke of Clarence, who, after the
death of his first wife, the daughter of William de
Burgh, Earl of Ulster, married Violenta, daughter of
John Galeazzo, Duke of Milan, and died of luxurious
living at Alba Pompeia, was also hurried here. The
parish church, which is an ancient and beautiful
structure, contains a font apparently co-cval with the
edifice.
The parish of Cowling, which was once the pro-
perty of William Long, Esq. the son of Henry the
Second, and fair Rosamond, contains one handsome
mansion, lately the residence of Dickens Esq.
Dulham Hall, the residence of the Affleck family,
was built, about 1705, by Dr. Patrick, bishop of Ely.
The small village of Depden was the birth place of
Dr. Anthony Sparrow, who, having suffered for his
attachment to royalty, was, after the Restoration, ap-
pointed archdeacon of Sudbury, president of Queen's
College, Cambridge, where he had been educated,
and bishop of Exeter, from which see he was trans-
lated to that of Norwich. He died in 1685, eight
years after this last promotion.
Haverhill, 8 miles W. from Clare and 58* N. N.
E. from London, a small market-town, appears, from
the ruins of a church and a castle, to have been of
greater extent and importance than at present. The
church is a large and ancient structure. It has
* Sir Gervase Elwes, says major Topham, in his life of the
late John Elwes, esq. Was a very worthy gentleman, that
had involved as far as they would go all the estates he received
and left behind him. On his death, his grandson and successor,
" Sir Hervey, found himself nominally possessed of some
thousands a year, but really with an income of one hundred
pounds per annum. He declared on his arrival at the family
seat at Stoke, that he would never leave it till he had entirely
cleared the paternal estate, and he lived to do that, and to realize
above one hundred thousand pounds in addition." The ac-
cumulation of money was the only passion and employment
of the long life of Hervey, who, though given over in his youth
for a consumption, attained to the age of upwards of eighty
years. To avoid the expense of company, he doomed himself,
for above sixty years, to the strictest solitude, scarcely knew
the indulgence of fire and candle, and resided in a mansion
where the wind entered at every broken casement, and the rain
descended through the roof. His household consisted of one
man and two maids ; and such was the systematic economy
which governed his whole establishment, that the annual expen-
diture of Sir Hervey, though worth at least 350,0001. amounted
to HO/. " Among the few acquaintances he had," says Major
Topham, " was an occasional club at his own village of Stoke,
and there were members of it two baronets besides himself, Sir
Cordelt Firebras, and Sir John Barnardiston. However rich
they were, the reckoning was always an object of their investi-
gation. As they were one day settling this difficult point, an
odd fellow, who was a member, called out to a friend who was
passing: " For heaven's sake step up stairs and assist the poor!
Here are three baronets, worth a million of money, quarrelling
VOL. iv.— NO. 163.
also a charity -school, and two meeting-houses.
Haverhill was the birth place of Dr. Samuel Ward,
a celebrated divine of the 17th century, and master
of Sydney College, Cambridge, whose sufferings,
during the troubles of that period, occasioned his
death~ in 1643.
At Hund'ii), two or three hundred Saxon coins
were discovered, in 1687, by the sexton, in digging
a grave. They were nearly all of the same weight,
but with a great variety of inscriptions, which, pro-
bably, was caused by the numerous mints, in different
parts of the kingdom. A building, contiguous to
the church, contains a noble pyramid of marble,
erected to the memory of Arethusa, wife of James
Vernon, Esq. This lady, the mother of the Earl of
Shipbrooke, died in 1728.
Ketlington belonged, at the Norman survey, to the
Baynards, but in later times became the property
and residence of the Barnardistons. Several monu-
ments in the church were erected to the memory of
some of the latter. During the Protectorate of
Cromwell, archbishop Tillotson was minister of
this place.
Lydgate was given by the Conqueror to one of
his fbllowers^namedReynold Sans Nose, from having
lost his nose in battle. The ruins of an ancient cas-
tle, surrounded by a moat, may be still distinguished.
This was the birth place of John Lydgate, the
celebrated monk of Bury.
At Stoke juxta Clare, was formerly a monastery
of the Benedictine order. In the seventeenth century
this parish became the property of Sir Gervase Elwes,
whose descendants are celebrated in the annals of
avarice.*
At
about a farthing!" On the death of Sir Hervey, in 1763, he lay
in state, such as it was, at Stoke; and some of his tenants
observed, with more humour than decency, that it was well he
could not see it. His immense property devolved to his nephew,
John Meggot, who, by his will, was ordered to assume the name
and arms of Elwes. — Mr. Elwes, whose mother had been left a
widow by a rich brewer, with a fortune of one hundred thousand
pounds, and starved herself to death, proved himself a worthy
heir to her and Sir Hervey. On his first coming to Stoke,
after his uncle's death, he began, it is true, to keep fox-hounds;
and his stable of hunters at that time was said to be the best in
the kingdom. This was the only instance in the whole life of
Mr. Elwes of his sacrificing money to pleasure; but even here
every thing was conducted in so frugal a manner, that the whole
of his establishment, huntsman, dogs, and horses, did not cost
him three hundred pounds a year. After a residence of near
fourteen years at Stoke, he was chosen to represent Berkshire
in parliament, on which occasion he removed to his seat at
Marcham in that county. He now relinquished the keeping of
horses and dogs; and no man could be more attentive to his
senatorial duties than Mr. Elwes, while he continued to sit in
the House of Commons. On his retirement from public life,
to avoid the expense of a contested election, he was desirous of
visiting his seat at Stoke, where he had not been for some years.
When he reached this place, once the seat ofmoreactivescenes,
of somewhat resembling hospitality, and where his fox-hounds
j had diffused something like vivacity around, he remarked that
he had formerly expended a great deal of money very foolishly,
but that a man grows wiser in time." — Of the way of living of
this accomplished miser during this his last residence at Stoke,
4 K the
314
SUFFOLK.
At Great Tlmrlow, was once a small hospital,
which was granted by Edward the Fourth to King's
College, Cambridge. The mansion is the seat of
the Vernons. An ancient mansion, at Little Thur-
low, has long been the residence of the Soame
family. The church contains a handsome monument
to the memory of Sir Stephen Soame, lord mayor
of London, who founded a free-school and an alms-
house in this parish.
SAMFORD.] — The hundred of Samford is bounded
northward by the hundred of Bosmere and Claydon,
and the liberties of Ipswich ; oil the east, by the
river Orwell; on the south, by the Stour; and, on
the west, by Babergh and Cosford hundreds.
Arwarton Hall, the property of Charles Berners,
Esq. is situated at the junction of the Orwell and
Stour, and commands a fine view of both The
architecture is a mixture of the Grecian and Gothic.
At Dodneis, in the parish of Bentley, was once a
small priory of Black canons, the revenues of which
were granted to Cardinal Wolsey.
East Bergholt was once a market-town, and had
a considerable manufacture of cloth. The residence
of some respectable families still gives it an air of
prosperity. The church displays much elegance ;
but, from the want of a steeple, the bells are fixed
in a shed, in the church-yard.
At Freston, near the bank of the Orwell, stands
the following account is given by his biographer: — " The
rooms at his seat at Stoke, that were now much out of repair,
and would have all fallen in, but for his son, John Elwes, Esq.
who had resided there, he thought too expensively furnished, as
worse things might have done. If a window was broken, there
was to be no repair, but that of a little brown paper, or piecing
in a bit of broken glass, which had at length been done so fre-
quently, and in so many shapes, that it would have puzzled a
mathematician to say what figure they describee). To save fire,
he would walk about the remains of an old green-house, or sit
with the servant in the kitchen. During the harvest, he would
amuse himself with going into the fields to glean the corn on
the grounds of his own tenants ; and they used to leave a little
more than common, to please the old gentleman, who was as
eager after it as any pauper in the parish. In the advance of
the season, his morning employment was to pick up any stray
chips, bones, and other things to carry to the fire, in his pocket;
and he was one day surprised by a neighbouring gentleman in
the act of pulling down a crow's nest for that purpose. On the
gentleman wondering why he gave himself this trouble. ' Oh,
Sir !' replied old Elwes, ' it is really a shame that these creatures
should do so. Do but see what waste they make ! They don't
care how extravagant they are.' — As no gleam of favourite pas-
sion, or any ray of amusement, broke through this gloom of
pcnui v, his insatiable desire of saving was now become uniform
and systematic. He used still to ride about the country on one
of the worn out mares, but then, he rode her very economi-
cally, on the soft turf adjoining the road, without putting him-
self'to the expence of shoes, as he observed, 'the turf was so
pleasant to a horse's foot.' When any gentleman called to pay
him a visit, and the boy who attended in the stable, was pro-
fuse enough to put a little hay before the horse, old Elwes
would slily steal back, and take it carefully away. — That very
strong appetite, which Mr. Elwes had in some measure restrain-
ed, during the long sitting of parliament, he now indulged most
voraciously, and on every thing he could find. To save, as he
thought, the expence of going to a butcher, he would have a
whole sheep killed, and so eat mutton to the end of the chapter.
a strong quadrangular tower, in length and breadth,
ten and twelve feet, and six stories high. The lowest
rooms seem to have been designed to support one on
the fifth story, which is different in its construction,
and of sufficient elevation to afford a fine view of the
river. The top is formed by open arches, and at
the angles, are turrets, surmounted by pinnacles.
The church of Hintlesham contains several monu-
ments of the Timperley family, who were lords of
the manor at an early period. A tomb of blue mar-
ble, has the portraiture, in brass, of a person in
armour, and a female with a grey-hound at her feet
as a crest. It has also a Latin inscription, and the
date, 1400.
Holbrook was once the property of the Clenchc
family, one of whom, a judge, who died in 1607, is
interred in the church.
The church of Stratford is handsome, and of con-
siderable antiquity. On the water-table is the fol-
lowing inscription : " Praye for the soulis of Ed-
ward Mors, and Alys hys wyf. — ultey rowlys anna
domini, 1430." About a quarter of a mile from
Stratford are the remains of a camp, which some
antiquaries declare to be the Roman station, Ad
Amain; a conjecture which, as the river there makes
a considerable curve, is plausible enough. Mr. Gough
seems to favour the idea, but does not roundly sup-
port it ; whilst others deny its truth hi tolo, and place
When he occasionally had his river drawn, though sometimes
horse loads of small fish were taken, not one would he suffer to
be thrown in again ; for he observed, ' he should never see
them again.' Game, in the last state of putrefaction, and meat,
that walked about his plate, would he continue to eat, rather
than have new things killed, before the old provisions were
finished. With this diet, the charnel-house of sustenance, his
dress kept pace, equally in the last stage of dissolution. Some-
times he would walk about in a (uUered brown-coloured, and
sometimes in a red and white woollen cap, like a prisoner con-
fined for debt. His shoes he never would suffer to be cleaned,
lest they should be worn out the sooner. When any friends,
who might occasionally be with him, were absent, he would
carefully put out his own fire, walk to the house of a neighbour,
and thus make one fire serve for both. 15ut still, with all this
self-denial, this penury of life, to which the inhabitant of an
alms-house is not doomed, still did lie think himself profuse,
and frequently say, ' he must be a little more careful of his
property.' — The scene of mortification at which Mr. Elwes
had now arrived, was all but a denial of the common necessaries
of life ; and indeed it might have admitted a doubt, whether,
if his manors, his fish-ponds, and some grounds in his own
hands had not furnished a subsistence, where he had not any
thing actually to buy, he would not rather have starred than
have bought a:iy thing. He one day, during this period, dined
upon the remaining part of a moorhen, which had been brought
out of the river by a rat ; and at another ate the undigested part
of a pike, which a larger one had swallowed, but had not finished,
and which were taken in this slate in a net. At the time this last
circumstance happened, he discovered a strange kind of satis-
faction, observing : 'Aye! this was killing two birds with one
stone !' In the room of all comment, let it be remarked, that
at this time Mr. Elwes was perhaps worth near eight hundred
thousand pounds. "-i-This extraordinary man died November
26th, 1789, at his seat at Marcham, in Berkshire, having by will
bequeathed all his real and personal estates, to the value of half
a million sterling, to his two natural sons, George and John
Elwes. The estate is still in the Elwes family.
ad Ansam
SUFFOLK.
315
ad Jiisam at Catawacle bridge, some miles lower,
where the Stour makes an island. Some carry it to
Mersey island, and again to Casteribrd, and finally
Mr. Ilorsley fixes it at London.
At Tattingston is the house of industry for this
hundred, which cost 8250^. and admits upon an
average 260 paupers, who are employed in spinning.
Whersted Lodge, the seat of the late Mr. Vernon,
has, by that gentleman's death, reverted to its former
owner, Sir Robert Harland, Bart, whose father was
a distinguished naval officer, and created a baronet,
in 1771. The lodge has lately (Feb. 1819) been
engaged for a term of years, by a branch of the
noble family of Granville.
Wolverstone Hall is the mansion of Charles Ber-
ners, Esq. In the centre of the front is a fine pedi-
ment supported by Ionic columns, and a colonnade
of the same order connects the wings with the
centre. The interior is furnished and decorated in
the most tasteful manner. In the park, which is
large, and stocked with spotted deer, and game,
is a square obelisk of free-stone, 90 feet high, sur-
mounted by a globe, encircled with rays. One side
oi the base has this inscription :
• In
Menioriam
Gulielmi Uerners, Arniig ;
Patris Optimi,
et
bene inerentis,
liunc obelisciim extrnxit
filing
Carolus Berners.
1793.'
STOW.] — The hundred of Stow is bounded on the
north, by Hartismere ; on the east, by Bosmere and
Claydon ; on the south, by that hundred and Cos-
ford ; and, on the west, by Blackbourn and Thed-
westry.
At Buxhall, the family of the Coppingers long
flourished, and exercised such hospitality, that it
became proverbial to say, ' like the Coppingers,' in
description of a liberal style of living. Sir William
Copptnger was lord mayor of London, in 1512.
Finborotigh Hall is an elegant mansion of modern
erection, the seat of Roger Pettiward, Esq. The
park, which contains about 200 acres, is finely
diversified with wood and water, and the whole
demesne is, from the varied character of its situa-
tion, one of the finest in the county. The church,
contains several monuments of the Wollaston family,
among which is one to the memory of William
Wollaston, author of the " Religion of Nature de-
lineated."*
Gipping Hall, as its name imports, is situated
near the source of the river, which bears the same
appellation. Gipping Hall, the ancient mansion of
the Tyrrel family, was lately occupied by Sir John
Shelley, Bart, as a sporting seat, and now by the
family of the celebrated Dr. Pemberton.
* See Life, in the description of Colon Clontord, Stafford-hire.
Haughley was formerly a market-town, distin-
guished by some peculiar customs; the lord of the
manor having possessed a jurisdiction of Oyer and
Terminer, as lately as the 11 th of Elizabeth. Near the
church, are the remains of a strong castle, sup-
posed to have been Saxon, of a square figure, and
fortified with a deep ditch and ramparts ; both of
which remain. The keep stood northward, upon a
high and steep hill strengthened by a moat. This
manor, 2442 acres in extent, and comprehending 22
dwelling houses, and 28 messuages, with a spacious
mansion, offices, and park, was sold in 1811, for
27.840/.
Newton was the property of Margaret, Countess
of Salisbury, daughter of George Duke of Clarence,
and of Isabel, the daughter of Richard Neville, Earl
of Warwick. This lady was accused of treason by
the barbarous Henry the Eighth, and beheaded in
her 70th year, with circumstances of the greatest
cruelty. She was condemned without a trial, and,
when brought to the scaffold, refused to lay her
head on the block, in obedience to a sentence of
which she denied the justice. She told the execu-
tioner, therefore, that if he would have her head,
he must win it the best way he could, and ran about
the scaffold, while he pursued her, aiming many
fruitless blows at her neck, before he was able to
end her life.
At Onehouse, a farm-house has been built on the
site of an ancient mansion, belonging to the family
of Burghersh. About two centuries since, this
parish was nearly covered wood, except a narrow
slip near the mansion.
Wetherden Hall was the residence of the Sulyards,
till the reign of Mary, who rewarded the loyalty of
Sir John Sulyard, the first who took arms in her
cause, with a grant of the manor of Haughley,
where he erected a mansion. His descendants suf-
fered much for their constancy in religion, and for
their adherence to the royal cause, in all its fortunes j
but were re-instated in their possessions, after the
Restoration of Charles the Second. Sir John was
also lord chief-justice of England, and founded the
porch and principal aisle of Wetherden church, on
many parts of which are carved the arms of his
family.
Slow-market, 12 miles N.N. W. from Ipswich,
and 76 N.E. from London, the only market-town in
this hundred, enjoys a great share of prosperity, and
is still in an emproving state. It has no fewer than
three Banks. The church is spacious ; but its style
oi' architecture is heavy : the spire is built of wood.
The only interesting monument, which this edifice
contains, is that of Dr. Young, tutor of Milton, and
vicar of this parish. As Slow-market is situated in
the centre of the county, it is a convenient mart for
barley, and large quantities of malt are made. Its
other manufactures are sacking, ropes, and twine
A navigable canal, opened in 1793, between (hi*
place
316
SUFFOLK.
place and Ipswich, is a great source of prosperity I
to the former. It is 16 miles long, and cost 26,380/.
but the immediate result was the reduction of land
carriage more than one half, as goods are conveyed
by this navigation, at one penny, per ton, per mile,
from Stow-market to Ipswich, and at only half the
price, in the contrary direction. At this town, on
account of its central situation, the county meet-
ings, for the nomination of representatives, &c. are
always holden. Near the town, stands the House
of Industry for this hundred, which was erected, in
1781, at an expence of 12,000/.
THEDWESTRY.J — The hundred of Thedwestry,
bounded, towards the north, by Blackbourn ; on
the south, by Babergh and Cosford ; and, on the
west, by Thingoe, contains no market-town.
Ampton is the property of Lord Calthorpe, of
Calthorpe, in Norfolk. Adjoining to the park of
Arapton Hall, is that of N. L. Acton, Esq. through
which and the former has been carried a fine ser-
pentine river. In one part of Mr. Acton's park,
advantage has been taken of this stream to plant a
romantic shrubbery, on its banks. A comfortable
alms-house, at Ampton, was founded and endowed
by Mrs. Dorothy Calthorpe, a maiden lady, for
poor, unmarried women. The front of the building
is inscribed : —
"MDCXCIH
Dorothea Calthorpe
Hospitium hoc fundavit
Virgo in virgimun solamen."
On the entrance of a walled garden apppears : —
" Tarn vohiptati qttdm saluti."
In the parish of Great Barton, is Necton Hall,
the seat of Sir Thomas Charles Bunbury, Bart., the
gardens and other pleasure grounds of which are
laid out with the greatest taste. This parish for-
merly belonged to the abbey of Bury.
Broadfield Combust received the second part of
its name from the destruction, by fire, of its hall, in
1327. This mansion is the birth-place and resi-
dence of the celebrated agriculturist, Arthur Young,
whose estate here was the scene of many experiments,
detailed in his " Annals of Agriculture." It is
situated on a high ridge of land, and is finely
adorned with valuable and promising timber. An
avenue of limes is nearly a century old, and about
40,000 larch-trees have been planted, to form a
nursery for oaks. This useful member of society,
having lived for the improvement of men, and at-
tained an age almost patriarchial, continues to
reside on his estate, and, although deprived of sight,
to labour for the prime end of his existence, in the
composition of a work, which has engaged his atten-
tion for many years. The church of Bradfield St.
George, though only 66 feet high, affords a view of
sixty other churches, so elevated is its site.
At Drinkstone, is the seat of Joshua Grigby, Esq.
lurrounded by plantations, tastefully disposed. The
rectory-house, built by the Rev. Richard Moseley,
is considered cue of the best in the county.
Fornham St. Genovieve was, in 1173, the scene
of a battje between the army of Henry the Second,
commanded by Richard de Lucy, and that of his
rebellious sons under the Earl of Leicester, in which
the latter was defeated. Seven tumuli, near Rymer
House, are supposed to be the tombs of the com-
manders slain on this occasion. A seat at this place
is the residence of Sir Charles Kent. The church
was consumed, in 1773, by fire, occasioned by the
inadvertency of a man shooting at jack-daws.
The church of Hessett was erected by the Bacons,
who possessed the manor from the reign of Henry
the Second, till that of Charles the First.
The church of Great Livermere contains the tomb
and monument of the Rev. W. Martin, father of
the well-known antiquary, who caused them to be
erected.
Pakenham contained the seats of two celebrated
families of the seventeenth century, now extinct ;
one, descended from Thomas Spring, the rich
clothier, of Lavenhara ; the other, of the Ashtields,
who inhabited Nether Hall.
Rougham church contains an ancient monument
of Sir Roger Drtiry, and his lady, the daughter of
Sir Robert Naunton, with the date 1400, and an
inscription in black letter. The hall is the property
of Roger Kedington, Esq.
Rushbrook Hall, once the seat of the noble family
of Jermyn, but now of Robert Rushbrook, Esq.
whose ancestors possessed, and derived their name
from it, is a spacious mansion, enclosing three sides
of a quadrangle. It is moated, and surrounded by
an extensive park.
At Welnetham, were formerly found many pot-
sherds, and other remains of a pottery, supposed,
from a sacrificing knife, some urns, and the head of
a spear, discovered at the same time, to be Roman.
Sir Richard Gipps, a respectable antiquary, re-
sided here, and was interred in the church.
At Woolpit, a white kind of brick is manufac-
tured, which is almost equal, in beauty, to stone,
and which has supplied materials for some of the
finest recently erected mansions in the county. The
church is Gothic, and formerly contained a shrine
of the Virgin Mary, to which, and to a spring, still
called our Lady's spring, many pilgrims resorted.
From the number of Roman coins discovered at this
place, and other circumstances, Dr. Gale is disposed
to place the Sitomagus of that people here, rather
than at Thetford.
THINGOE.] — The hundred of Thingoe is bounded,
on the north, by Lackford and Blackbourn ; on the
east, by Thedwestry ; on the south, by Babergh ;
and, on the west, by Risbridge and Lackford.
At Barrow are the ruins of a noble seat, suc-
cessively inhabited by the Badlesmeres, and the
Tiletots, lords of the manor. The church contains
the monument of Sir Clement Higham, the last
Catholic Speaker of the House of Commons. The
Rev. Dr. Francis, the translator of Horace, was
rector of this parish.
Near
SUFFOLK.
317
Near Fornham All Saints, a battle was fought by
Edward, son of King Ethelwald, over whom he
gained a complete victory. The manor belongs to
Sir Thomas Rookham Gage, Bart.
The church of Hawsted, built of free-stone, and
inlaid flints, seems to have been erected at the
beginning of the sixteenth century. The lower
part of the steeple displays some elegant specimens
of inlaying, in the figures of mullets, quatrefoils,
nnd interlaced triangles. In the interior, some
figures of angels, and other carved work, about the
roof, were defaced by the puritans, in the seven-
teenth century. The windows of the chancel were
enriched with stained glass, much of which was
destroyed at the visitation, by the puritans. The
monuments here are numerous and ancient. An
arched recess, in the wall of the chancel, contains
a cross-legged figure, of stone, supposed to repre-
sent one of the Fitz-Eustace family, who were lords
of the manor, in the reign of Edward the First. A
flat slab of Sussex marble retains no traces of in-
scription ; another, in the body of the church, covers
the remain! of Roger Drury, Esq. who died in 1500.
A flat stone, near the altar, bears the portraiture of
a lady, in the costume of the reign of Henry the
Seventh. It appears, from the escutcheon, that
this figure was intended to represent Ursula, fourth
daughter of Sir Robert Drury. The entablature of
an altar-tomb, of Sussex marble, is adorned with
a brazen portrait of a knight, armed, with those of
his two wives. The neck and wrists of the former
have ruffles, and his armour is flourished with a dif-
i'erent metal, whilst his whiskers and parted beard
are long ; the latter are habited alike, though one
died forty years before her husband, and the other
survived him, as her open eyes indicate. A long
epitaph, in black letter, informs us that this monu-
ment was intended to commemorate " Syr Wyllm
Drury, knyght," who died in 1557. In the chancel,
js a fine bust, in armour, of Sir William Drury,
who was slain, in 1589, in a duel. A mural monu-
ment, in the chancel, commemorates the lady, of
whom Dr. Donne said,
" Her pure and eloquent blood
Spoke in her cheeks, and so distinctly wrought,
That one might almost say her body thought."
On this tablet, a female figure is represented)
with her head reclining on her left hand, on which
figure, another is scattering flowers. This lady, the
daughter of Sir Robert Drury, died in 1610, at
the early age of 15, and, tradition adds, that she
had been destined for the wife of Prince Henry,
eldest son of James the First. A fine mural monu-
ment, opposite to the last, is sacred to the memory
of Sir Robert Drury, and consists of a basement
and sarcophagus, beneath a double arch, on which
is the bust, in armour, of Sir Rohert, finely executed
by Nicholas Stone. A large mural monument, in
honour of Sir Thomas Cullura, Bart, consists of a
basement and sarcophagus, from which rise two
square, fluted Ionic pillars, supporting an entabla-
VOL. iv.— NO. 164.
ture, and a large escutcheon. A late rector of
Hawsted, was Sir John Cullum, who wrote the
History of Hawsted and its Antiquities. Hawsted
| was given, by Edward the Confessor, to the abbot
: and convent of Bury ; succeeding lords of the manor
were the family of Fitz-Eustace, and the Cloptons,
by whom it was alienated to the Drurys, a distin-
guished family, of one of whom Fuller observes
i that, " as his name, in the Saxon language, sig-
nifies a pearl, so he might fitly be compared 1o one
: for preciousness, being hardy, innocent, and valiant."
; In 1656, the interest of the house of Drury ceased at
1 Hawsted, after 190 years' continuance, Thomas Cul-
i lum, Esq. having purchased the estate for 17,697/.
Sir Thomas Gery Cullum, Bart, of Bury St. Ed-
munds, is the present proprietor. Hawsted House,
! situated on an eminence, is supposed to have been
I built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. This edifice
| encloses a quadrangle, and is built, chiefly, of tim-
ber and plaster, which latter is of so durable a
j nature, that two centuries have produced few marks
1 of decay. Between the porches, on which the arms
j of Drury remain, is a stone -figure of Hercules,
| supposed, from the date upon the pedestal, to have
| been one of the embellishments preparatory for the
! reception of Queen Elizabeth, who honoured this
place with her presence, in 1578. Hardwick House
| is the property of the Cullum family, and annexed,
for ever, to the manor of Hawsted. Sir John Cul-
lum mentions the existence of a custom, similar to one
i practised in Cornwall, of drawing a child through a
; cleft tree or stone, for the purpose of curing rickets
; or ruptures. Hardwick Heath is famous for a flock
! of sheep, esteemed the finest in the county. Itfor-
i merly belonged to the abbot of Bury, and never ex-
! ceeded 300, which have horns, and black faces and
J legs. Sir Robert Drury, who died in 1615, founded
j an alms-house at Hardwick, for six single women,
to whom he allotted a yearly revenue of 51. each.
Hengrave Hall, a fine specimen of the antique
mansion, is the property of Sir Thomas Gage,
whose ancestor, Edward Gage, Esq. created a
I baronet, in 1662, had five wives, and died at the
j age of 90. This building encloses a court, which
! is overlooked by many windows, embellished with
; stained glass ; one, in particular, contains some find
exemplars of armorial bearings, and is adorned with
tracery, in the style of Henry the Seventh's chapel.
The gate-way is singularly beautiful, and in high
preservation. This mansion afforded an asylum, a
! few years since, to a convent of expatriated nuns,
1 whose superior, a descendant of Sir Thomas More,
died there. A small church, near the hall, contains
the monuments of John Bouchier, Earl of Bath,
and of his son John, Lord Fitz-Warren, with seve-
ral of the Kitsou and Gage families, lords of the
manor. A fine marble tomb supports the effigies of
! Sir Thomas Kitson, founder of Hengrave Hall, and
of his wife. This gentleman was born of obscure
parents, at Yealland, in Lancashire, and, having
acquired great wealth by trade, was knighted.
4 L Horningsheatb
318
SUFFOLK.
Horningsheath consisted formerly of two parishes,
distinguished by the names Magna and Parva, long
since united. The Hall, at the latter place, was a
pleasure-house of the abbot of Bury, to whom the
manor also belonged.
Ickworth Park, the property and residence ot
Frederick William, fifth Earl of Bristol, is eleven
miles in circumference, and contains 1800 acres.
The mansion is not remarkable, but an edifice, pro-
jected by the late Earl, and intended for the recep-
tion of the works of art, which he had collected,
claims the attention and regrets of beholders. The
central part of this building, circular, and connected
with the wings by a colonnade, is 140 feet high, and
crowned by a cupola, 90 feet in diameter. The
lower apartments are adorned with columns of the
Ionic, and the upper, of the Corinthian order. Over
the windows of the latter, are sculptured subjects,
from the Iliad, in basso relievo ; and, over the prin-
cipal entrance, the scene of Alexander presenting
Bucephalus to Philip, with a representation of the
Olympic games, on each side. The windows of the
first story are surmounted by a series of bass-reliefs
from the Odyssey. The wings are in an unfinished
state, as is the interior of the centre ; it does not
seem to be the intention of the noble owner to
complete the design of his predecessor. This fine
edifice has already cost 40,000/.
At Saxham Magna, a mansion called Nutmeg
Hall, was originally built by John Eldred, whose
bust is placed in the chancel of the church, with a
long account of his birth and earthly pilgrimage,
and many subsidiary inscriptions, of which the fol-
lowing is one : —
Curriculum vita; peregr mercando peregi,
JEgyptutn, atqtie Arabes, Syrosque visens;
Eximis reduci et merit* ccssere coronx
Nati, divitez, perenne nomen.
Felix grandajvus morior ; longissima quamvis
Sit vitae via— terminus sepulclirum.
Saxham Parva was long the seat of the Crofts,
one of whom having suffered much in the Stuart
cause, and rendered great services to Charles the
Second, was, by that monarch, raised to the peer-
age by the title of Lord Crofts, of Saxham. This
nobleman, who died without male issue, was interred
in the church, where an elegant altar-monument
supports his effigies in the dress of his day. The
•windows of this edifice are adorned with stained
glass, principally coats of arms of the Crofts family.
The tower is round, embattled, and finely ornamented
•with frame-work.
The church of Whepstead had formerly a spire,
which was blown down by the high wind at the
death of Cromwell. Plumston Hall, in this parish,
is the property and residence of major-general
Hammond.
THREDLING.]— The hundred of Thredling, bound-
ed, on the north, by Hartismere ; on the east, by
Loes ; and, on the south and west, by Bosmere and
Claydon, contains five parishes, Ashfield, Deben-
ham, Framsden, Pettaugh, and Winston.
Debenham, a market-town, 1\ miles W. from
Framlingham, and 83i N. E. by N. from London,
is seated on a hill, near the source of the Deben.
The town is meanly built, but the church is hand-
some, and contains some ancient monuments. The
town-house is also a neat building. Sir Robert
Ilitcham directed, by his will, that twenty poor
children of this place should be instructed in his
school at Framliughara ; but, that being found in-
convenient, a master was appointed at Debenham,
to be paid out of the produce of that gentleman's
estate.
WANGFORD.]— The hundred of Wangford, bound-
ed, on the north, by Norfolk ; on the east, by Mut-
ford and Blything ; on the south, by Blything ; and
on the west, by Hoxne hundred ; contains two mar-
ket towns.
At Barsham, was born, in 1671, Laurence Echard,
a divine and historian of some eminence. He com-
pleted his education at Christ College, Cambridge,
and soon afterwards published the first part of his
Roman History ; this was followed by a General
Ecclesastical History, a History of England, &c.
He attained considerable preferment in the church,
and died in 1730.
Beccles, a large and well-built town, 41 miles
N. E. by N. from Ipswich, and 110 N. E. by N.
from London, is situated on the Waveney, which is
navigable from Yarmouth. It is governed by a
port-reeve and thirty-six burgesses, the office of
the former being held, in rotation, by twelve of the
latter. The church is Gothic, with a steeple con-
taining ten bells, and a porch, which is considered
a fine specimen of florid Gothic. The ruins of End-
gate church may be seen at the south end of the
Town, but the. inhabitants of Endgate have, "time
out of mind, been esteemed parishioners of Beccles."
Beccles has also a Town -hall, a Gaol, a Free-school,
founded in the reign of James the First, and endow-
ed with one hundred acres of land ; and a good
grammar-school, founded about a century ago by
Dr. Falconberge, and endowed with an estate, then
worth 40/. per annum. Near the town is a large
common, on which the poor inhabitants have liberty
to feed their cattle on easy terms. In 1586, a fire
consumed 80 houses, in this place, and property to
the amount of 20,000/.
Bungay, 37| miles N. N. E. from Ipswich, and
106f N. E.byN. from London, is seated on the
Waveney, which is here navigable for barges.
Having been almost totally consumed by fire, in
1688, the houses are well built, -and one of its
churches is a stately fabric. The castle, once the
! residence and strong-hold of the Bigods, and by
' one of them conceived to be impregnable, has become
the habitation ot helpless poverty ; many miserable
hovels having been reared against its walls, for the
i accommodation of the lowest cluss. The principal
streets branch from the market-place, which is
spacious
SUFFOLK.
319
spacious and handsome. Buiigay has a Theatre,
an Assembly-room, and a Free Grammar-school,
from which two scholars are sent to Emanuel Col-
lege, Cambridge. The springs of this place, are
supposed to possess medicinal properties of great
efficacy. The trade of Bungay is carried on in
corn, malt, flour, coals, lime, and hempen eloth,
which is manufactured there. :
At Flixton, a nunnery, founded in the reign of
Henry the Third, by Margery, widow of Bartho-
lomew de Creek, was endowed by the revenue of
the manor, which, at the Dissolution, was granted
to John Tasburgh. The Hall is the residence of
Alexander Adair, Esq. whose father purchased the
estate. This building is in a style of architecture,
called Ini»o Jones' Gothic ; the hall and staircase
are magnificent, and the apartments spacious ; its
situation, amid extensive plantations, and within
view of the Waveney, is delightful.
At Mettingham, are the ruins of a castle, which
appears to have been of great extent and strength,
and within the walls of which a modern farm-house
has been erected.
At Shipmeadow, is the House of Industry for the
hundred, built in 1765, at an expence of 8500/.
The number of paupers is about 200, who are em-
ployed in spinning.
Sotterley Hall, formerly the residence of the
Playter family, is now the property of Miles Barne,
Esq.
Worlington Hull is the property and residence
of Robert Sparrow, Esq.
WJLFORD.] — The hundred of Wilford, is bounded,
towards the north, by Loes ; on the east, by the
German Ocean ; and, on the west, by Carlford and
the river Deben.
The church of Alderton, situated two miles from
the sea, is in ruins, whether from the regular pro-
gress of decay, or other causes, is unknown ; it is,
however, a very conspicuous mark at sea.
The manor of Boyton is applied, by will of Mrs.
Mary Warner, the last proprietor, to charitable
uses ; the principal of which is the maintenance of
an alms-house, at this place, for an equal number of
poor men and women, twelve in all, who receive a
weekly allowance of money, and are supplied with
comfortable clothing.
In Hollesley Bay, were found, a few years
since, two pieces of cannon, apparently made in
the infancy of the art, being of the same construc-
tion as those used by the English at the battle of
Crescy, in 1346 ; that is, with hoops, and a movable
breech.
JLoudliam Hall, an elegant modern mansion, situ-
ated in a park, is the property and residence of
Jacob Whitbread, Esq.
At Melton, about a mile from Woodbriclge, is
the House of Industry for the hundreds of Loes
and Wilford, which is both spacious and neat. A
governor, surgeon, and school-master have capa-
cious apartments, and reside in the house. The
expence of erecting it was 9,200/. and the average
number of poor 240, who are employed in spinning
and weaving.
At Ramsholt, are the ruins of an ancient build-
ing, called Peyton Hall, supposed to have been a
seat of the Earls of Suffolk.
At Ufford, the place from which the Earls of
Suffolk derived their name, was another mansion
of that family, the site of which is occupied by
a farm-house. Near the ruins of an ancient chapel,
is a rectangular area, surrounded by a moat, where,
tradition says, formerly stood a castle. The church
is small, but handsome, and contains some monu-
ments of the Woods. One curious relic of ancient
beauty was spared by the spoilers of the seventeenth
century, the cover of the font, which, in their own
words, is " like a pope's triple crown, with a peli-
can on the top, picking its breast, all gilt over
with gold." The Rev. Richard Lovekin, rector of
this parish fifty-seven years, lived to the age of
111, and performed the duties of his office to the
last, even the Sunday before his death, in Septem-
ber, 1678.
At Wickham Market, the quarter-sessions were
formerly, and the spiritual court is still held. It
had, besides, a market, and was of much greater
importance than at present. The church stands on.
a hill, and is adorned with a spire, which, though
only seventy-feet high, is a sea-mark, and com-
mands a prospect of fifty others. The rectory of
this parish, with those of Pettistree and Bing, were
bequeathed in 1718 to charitable uses. The sum
of 251. is annually paid to the widows and orphans
of clergymen within 15 miles of Ipswich, and the
remainder is given to the charity-schools at that
place.
TABLE
320
SUFFOLK.
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VOL. JV.— NO. 164.
4M
SURREY.
322
SURREY.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.
THE small, inland county of Surrey is bounded,
on the east, by Kent ; on the south, by Sussex ;
on the west, by Berkshire and Hampshire ; and, on
the north, by the Thames, which separates it from
Middlesex. Its form is nearly that of a regular
oblong ; excepting on the north side, where it is
deeply indented by the Thames. Its greatest length,
from north to south, is 2tt miles ; and its greatest
breadth, from east to west, about 38. Its super-
ficies was formerly estimated at 592,000 acres ;
but, according to the late official survey, it contains
519,000 acres, or 811 square miles. — The sur-
face of nearly the- whole of the county, except the
Weald, consists of gentle hill and dale. In some
parts the hills rise to a considerable height, and
present very bold and commanding views. The
north-west corner of the county, near the Thames,
has its surface varied by Cooper's-hill and St.
Anne's-hill ; both of them remarkable for extensive
prospects. The next eminence to the east, but at a
greater distance from the Thames, is St. George's-
hill ; after which, proceeding down the river, the
heights of Richmond, Putney, and Roehampton,
attract the eye ; and farther to the east, the rising
grounds about Norwood and Dulwich. Across the
middle of the county the downs, rising with a gentle
slope from the north, and broken in their eastern
division into deep and waving vallies, form a striking
object, and give a pleasing variety to the scenery.
Towards the northern bonier of the downs Sander-
sted-hill, near Croydon, affords a rich and majestic
prospect. From Box -hill, Bansted downs and Hed-
ley heath, the views are also singularly commanding
and diversified. To the south of the downs the sur-
face of the county rises in tiie hills which overhang
the Weald, near Oxted, Godstone, Reigate, and
Dorking. On approaching the western extremity of
the county, these hills appear to cover a greater
breadth ; and near Wonersh, Godalming, and Peper-
harrow, covered with a rich foliage, and waving,
with a graceful line, into intermediate vallies,
watered by the different branches of the Wey, they
present a most picturesque prospect. On Lei th- hill,
to the south-west of Dorking, Tilbuster-hill, near
Godstone, and Gratewood-hill, near Godalining, the
views are very extensive ; but perhaps there is no
part of the county in which the appearance of the
richly wooded vale of the Weald is more strikingly
pleasing than on the road from Albury to Ewhurst.
" After toiling up the deep and barren sands to the
south of Albury, which present no object on which
the eye can repose, even for a moment, we suddenly
come to the southern edge of the hill, whence the
whole extent of the Weald, clothed with wood,
appears to the south, with an occasional peep of the
sea, through the breaks of the Sussex Downs, which
form the back-ground : on the south-west appears
the rich and finely varied country about Godal-
ming, backed by the wild heaths that stretch across
from Farnham to llaslemere. Sometimes on a clear
night, the shadow of the moon is to be seen glancing
on the waves of the English channel, forming- a sin-
gular and romantic feature in the prospect." — Gene-
rally speaking, Surrey presents as large a portion of
beauty and of deformity as any county in the king-
dom ; and it has long been proverbial for contain-
ing a greater proportion of gentlemen's seats, than
any other district of England, of similar extent. —
In a county where the soils and elevations are so
various, the climate must also vary considerably.
Less rain is supposed to full in most parts of Surrey,
than in the metropolis, or in the vale of London;
| so that the climate may, upon the whole, be regarded
as dry, as far as respects the quantity of rain : the
i southern border, however, is moist and damp, from
the nature of the soil, the flatness of the surface,
and the immense number of trees which cover il,
and obstruct ventilation. The low parts near the
I Thames are also rather damp. The atmosphere of
the chalk- hills, which run across the whole county
from east to west, is dry, rather keen, and bracing.
On the wide and exposed heaths about Bagshot,
Aldershot, and Hind-head, a similar climate pre-
vails, so that the whole west side may, witli a very
small exception, be said to have a dry, and rather
cold, atmosphere. — The spring is in general early ;
and vegetation is not so frequently checked here by
frosty mornings, and cold, raw, easterly winds, as
in
_L5_
^pmj- |i|- &
>3ff,t -i. \. *->., * K t A
SURREY.
323
in some of the more southern counties. The sum-
mers are mostly dry and warm ; and the harvest
early, generally commencing in the first ten days of
August ; and, from the steadiness of the weather at
that important time, there is seldom any corn out in
the fields after the first week of September. — The
wind blows most steadily from the west and south-
west, seldom keeping long in any point between the
north-west and north-east. In the spring, and fre-
quently towards the end of autumn, the easterly
winds prevail ; and the weather is then cold and
raw, with a drizzling moisture : but the greatest
quantity of rain falls when the wind blows from the
south-south-west, or south. — The climate is con-
sidered very healthy in most parts of the county,
between the southern district, called the Weald, and
the Thames, particularly near the northern foot of
the chalk-hills.
SOIL.] — The soils of Surrey, so mixed as to defy
arrangement or minute description, may be reduced
to four predominant kinds : — clay, loam, chalk, and
peat, or that which produces heath. The tract,
called the Weald, about thirty miles long, and four
or five broad, lying on the borders of Hampshire
and Sussex, is a cold, retentive clay, with a flat
surface, generally covered with wood. Northward,
adjoining to this, is a sandy loam, extending the
whole length of the county, and including the fertile
tlistrict round Godalrning, which rests on a sand-
stone bottom. The chalky downs form the middle
district of Surrey ; beginning on the borders of
Kent, with a breadth of seven miles, which breadth
diminishes to a point, and terminates on the borders
of Hampshire. An elevated ridge, which divides
this trilateral district as the perpendicular of an
isosceles triangle, consists of heath-bearing soil to
a great depth. From the eastern end of the down
district, northward, the soil is a strong clay, streaked
with a sandy loam, and patched with gravel. Paral-
lel to, and westward from this district, is a ridge of
clay, which terminates in a loam at Putney. The
soil, near the Thames, is sandy, mixed with loam
ami clay. The heaths of Surrey are extensive, and |
occupy a great part of the western side of the |
county.
AGRICULTURE.] — So far is Surrey from keening
pace with the improvements of Kent, that it may •.
be described as behind the rest of the island. The
drilling system is but little practised. Few oats are
grown, the wheat crops are scanty, and the barley
is mostly malted. The turnip is most exten- :
sively cultivated, and highly profitable. The hop
district, about Farnham, occupies nearly 1000 acres,
the produce of which is preferred to all other in the
kingdom. A large portion of the parish and neigh-
bourhood of Mitcham, is occupied in the culture of
medicinal herbs. Peas, beans, cabbages, carrots, and
potatoes are much attended to, in the northern part
of the county, both clover and sainfoin are cultivated
on the chalky downs, as well as woad, which is com-
monly sown with barley. The manures in use are
lime and chalk, both furnished abundantly by the
quarries on the high downs ; the latter is applied to
light loams and even sandy soils ; and the former to
the tough, cold clays of the Weald. Irrigation was
formerly practised, but is now fallen into disuse. The
farmers of Surrey employ in their operations one im-
plement peculiarly their own, a machine for cleans-
ing wheat from smut, &c. it consists of a perforated
cylinder, containing a great number of brushes
which are whirled round with rapidity, and separate
the light incoherent particles from the grain.
CATTLE, &c.] — The draught horses of Surrey are
large, heavy, and black. The milk -cows, in the
neighbourhood of London, are of the Hoklerness
breed ; those in the southern districts are from
Devonshire and Staffordshire, and the heaths are
stocked with a breed small and mean -looking, and,
in colour and carcass, much like the long-horned
breed. The profitable employment of rearing calves
for the London market, is practised chiefly on the
Weald. Few oxen are fattened, except by the dis-
tillers, near the metropolis. The primitive heath
sheep are bred in the western districts, whilst the
chalk- hills are covered with Wiltshire, Dorsetshire,
South-down, Somerset, Berkshire, and Romney
sheep, of which the three first are the most com-
mon ; and of these, the Dorsetshire are kept for
early lambs ; the Wiltshire, for the fold ; and the
South-down are preferred by the butcher and wool-
buyer. House-lambs, for which the county was
once so famous, are still reared about Ewell, Esher,
anil Walton. Rudgewick, on the borders of Sussex,
is remarkable for a breed of swine, uncommonly
large, and ready fatteners, of which the average
weight is from 80 to. 100 stone. Many geese are
fed on the commons of the Weald ; and the Dork-
ing breed of fowls is well known.
TKNURES, LEASES, &c.] — In this county, there
are no large estates ; the most extensive not much
exceeding 10,000/. per annum, and but fewapproach-
ing to that rent. The size of farms also may be con-
sidered as rather small than large, the most extensive
comprehending IfiOO acres ; there are a few others
from 600 to 1200 ; but the common size is from
200 to 300, and many are below that standard.
Malcolm reckons 170 acres as the fair average. —
The tenures are principally freehold. Most of the
farms are let on leases, the duration of which is
generally for seven, fourteen, or twenty-one years.
A few are let for three lives ; but there "are many
extensive farms which are held without a lease from
year to year, entirely at the will of the landlord. —
The rents, excepting in that part of the county
which lies within the influence of the London mar-
kets, are low. In the Vale, or Weald, the farm-
houses are too often mean and ruinous. In the other
parts of the county, they are in general sufficiently
large and convenient, in good repair, and kept neat
and clean. The oldest are entirely of brick, and
mostly covered with large heavy slate-stone : many
are constructed of a framing of wood lathed and
plastered
324
SURREY.
plastered, or rough-cast. Some of the barns have
clay walls ; but they are generally of timber, on a
foundation of briek or stone. Such farmers as live
near the chalk are careful to bottom their farm-
yards, and line their drinking-pools with that mate-
rial. The cottages are in general sufficiently large
and convenient for the class of persons by whom
they are occupied ; and a small piece of ground
for growing vegetables is commonly attached to
them.
FORESTS, WOODS, WASTE LANDS, &c.] — Under
the Norman dynasty, the whole county of Surrey
was appropriated by the sovereign as a royal forest ;
and it was only after a long and persevering strug-
gle, that John and his successor resigned this enor-
* Achillea Ptarmica. Sneeze-wort, or Goose Tongue; ill
the closes at Streatliam.
Acorus Calamus, Sweet Smelling Flag, or Calamus ; about
Hedley.
Aguricus deliciosus. Orange Agaric ; in woods, nearGuildford.
. cqucstrii. Starry Agaric ; "1
. Itictifluus. Milky Agaric ;
— — piperatus. Pepper Agaric ; }- at Dulwich.
— verrucosus. Warty Agaric ; |
viscidus. Clammy Agaric ; J
Alisma Damasonium. Star-headed Water-plaintain ; in ditches
and stagnant waters; on Putney heath, in a
pit, almost opposite to the wells at Streatliam,
and in the ponds about Wandsworth, Evvell,
, and Epsom.
Anagallis arvensis t. Female Pimpernel ; between Stockwell
and Camberwell, between Streatliam and
Mitcham, and at Streatham.
Anemone apennina. Mountain Wood Anemone ; in Wim-
bledon woods.
nemorosa. Wood Anemone ; in woods and hedges,
between Dulwich and London.
Anchusa sempervirem. Ever-green Alkanet ; near Vauxhall.
Anthyllis vulncraria. Ladies' Fingers, on the Downs, near
Ewell, Epsom, and elewhere.
Anthemis nobilis. Sweet-scented Camomile ; in open meadows
and pastures, between Dulwich and London ;
on Epsom Downs, and elsewhere.
Antirrhinum Elatine. Sharp-pointed Fluellin ; in corn-fields.
Linaria ft, Petoria. A variety of the Common
Toad Flax ; in sandy meadows at Clapham.
, • minus. Least Toad Flax ; on the downs, near
Epson and Ewell.
- hybridum. Hybrid Toad Flax ; common on
the downs and corn-fields, about Ewell and
Epsom.
repens Monspes.iulanum. Sweet-smelling Toad
Flax ; in the hedges, near Farnham.
Aquilegia vulgaris. Common Columbines; on Norwood
common, by the gravel-pits, near the direction
post.
Arenaria tenuifolia. Fine Leaved Chickweed; on a wall at
Battersea, and elsewhere.
trinervia. Plaintain Leaved Chickweed ; in Nor-
wood, and on Streatham common.
Arundo Calamngrostis. Branched Reed Grass ; at Camber-
well, in a lane, between the Grove and Dul-
wich.
Aiperula Cynanchica. Squinancy-wort; on Box hill, at Sutton,
and on Leith hill, and elsewhere.
Asplenium Scolopcndrium. Harts' Tongue ; on the abbey
walls at Merton, and about the Bon Spring at
Whitley, and elsewhere.
mous claim. By the charter of Henry the Third,
all Surrey was disafforested, except the park of
Guildford, of which that part of Surrey known by
the name of the Bailiwick is accounted purlieu.
The present ranger is the Honourable T. Onslow,
to whom belongs Fangrove Lodge, near Chertsey.
The Weald is the most woody part of the county,
whilst the chalk hills have the greatest share of
coppice. The heath lands of Surrey are prodigi-
ously extensive, comprehending nearly one sixth of
the county, much of which might be planted suc-
cessfully, and the rest made to bear good crops of
corn.
PLANTS.] — Of the principal plants, growing wild
in Surrey, a list will be found in the note below.*
RIVERS,
Atropa Belladonna. Deadly Nightshade, or Dwale; among
the box, on Box hill, going down to Dorking.'
Avena fatua. Bearded Oat Grass; in corn-fields, at Streatham.
pubescens. Rough Oat Grass ; on Ranstead downs.
Betonica officinalis (flore albo). Wood Betonv, with a white
flower ; between London and Dulwich.
Boletus igniarius. Hard Boletus, or Touchwood; on trunks
of trees ; in the woods at Wimbledon.
• luteus. Yellow Boletus ; in woods, at Dulwich.
•• subtomentusus. Woolly Boletus ; in woods about
Esher.
Bryum aureum. Golden Bryum ; in the sand cave, near the
old mill, Dorking, in plenty.
• calarceum. Chalk Bryum ; on the perpendicular sides
of the chalk-pits at Ewell, Epsom, and else-
where.
• carneum. Shining Bryum ; in wet meadows, at Dork-
ing.
pomiforme. Hound-headed Bryum; near Dorking,
plentifully.
rigidmn. Rigid Bryum ; in chalk-pits, near Ewel,
Leatherhead, and Dorking.
Bupleurum rotundifolium. Thorow-wax ; in corn-fields, at
Sutton, Leatherhead, and Epsom.
Sums sempervirens. Box-tree ; on Box-hill, plentifully.
Callitriche aquuiica y, Autumnalis. Autumnal Star-wort ;
between London and Dulwich.
Campanula glorncrata. Lesser Throatwort, or Canterbury-bells ;
on Box-hill on the Downs, Epsom and Ewell.
hederacea. Tender Ivy-leaved Bell-flower ; in
watery places.
patula. Spreading Campanula ; at Cobham.
hybrida. The Lesser Venus' Looking-glass, or
Codded Corn Violet ; in the common fields at
Mitcham, and on the Downs, plentifully.
— — — Rapunculus. Rampions ; ditches and corn-fields,
near Esher and Croydon.
Trachelium ; on the Downs at Ewell, Epsom, and
Leatherhead, and elsewhere.
Cardamine amara. Bitter Cress, or Ladies Smock ; among
the willows at Battersea.
Carduus acaulis. Dwarf Carline Thistle ; on Dulwich com-
mon, on Banstead Downs, and on Box hill.
• — helenioides p>, heteropliyllus, A variety of Melan-
choly Thistle ; near the end of Tuddington.
Carduus palustris. March Thistle ; on Dulwich common.
Carex capitata. Round-headed Carex ; near Croydon, and
on Shirley common.
pulicaris. Flea Carex ; on Shirley common, and near
Croydon,
Caucalis Daucoidfs. Fine-leaved Bastard Parsley ; among the
corn by the road side lead ing to Dorking, from
Banstead downs, and elsewhere.
Ctrastiutt
SURREY.
325
RIVERS, CAT»AI.S,&C.] —Beside the Thames, which
forms the northern boundary of the county, Surrey
Cerasteim arvense. Corn Mouse-ear duckweed ; on Dup-
pa's hill, and on the downs.
Cklora pcrfoliata. Yellow Gentian ; in the chalk-pits, near
Cheam, on llie downs.
Cicuta virosa. Long-leaved Water Hemlock ; at Battersea.
Cistus Itctianthemum, * Surrejanus. Narrow-leaved Cistus, said
to have been found on Banstead Downs.
Colchicum autuntnale. Meadow Satfron ; in a meadow at
Addiscoinbe.
Comarum palustre . Purple Marsh Cinquefoil; in the meadows
at Guildford.
Conferva gelatinosa. Frog-spawn Conferva ; in a well at
Godalmmg-, and in the clear spring at Ewell.
Convallaria maiulis. Lily Convally, or May Lily ; by the
side of the road to Sydenham.
. multijlora. Solomon's Seal ; in the hedges at
Stockwell.
Cratargus Aria. White Bean-tree ; common in the copses,
near the downs, and about Croydon.
. Torminaiis. Common Wild SeiviceTree, or Sorb ;
between London and Dulwich.
Crepis fatida. Slinking Hawkweed ; among the corn by the
side ol the road to Dorking, from Bansiead
downs.
_ biennis. Biennial Hawkweed ; in chalk pits on the
downs, near Ewt-11.
Crocus sativus jS sylvestrii Saffron Crocus ; in meadows and
pastures, near the null at Balter-ea.
Cuscuta Europata. Dodder; on Snirley common.
Dnpluie laureola. Spurge Laurel ; in the closes at Strratham.
Diunthu% armeria. Deptford Pink ; near Croydon, plenti-
fully, betwei i) Dorking and Mickleham, by
the pathsute of one of the closes, between
Dulwich and the Green Man, on the top of
Oak-of-honour-hill, and al Streatham.
ddtoides. Maiden Pink ; on Duppa's Hill, near
Croydon.
Drosera rotundifolia. Round-leaved Sun-dew ; on Shirley
common.
Epilobium augustifolium. Rose-bay Willow-herb ; at Wim-
bledon.
Erica cinerea. Fine-leaved Heath ; in Norwood, and elsewhere.
- tetralijc. Cross-leaved Heath ; on Wandsworlli common.
Erigeron acre. Purple Erigeron ; on Addington Common.
Enophorum vuginatum. Hare'i-tail Rush ; on the great bog,
beyond John Coal's, at Croydon.
Erysimum cheiratUhoidcs. Treacle Wormseed ; in the two
corn-fields, south of Weybridge church.
Euonymus Europaus. Spindle-tree, or Prickwood ; in hedges,
between Dulwich and London.
Euphorbia timi/gdahides. Wood Spurge; in Norwood.
• platyphyllus fi scgetalisi Corn Spurge; in the
closes at Streatham.
Fettuca fluicuns /5 Inliucea. Spike Fescue Grass ; on meadows
at Vauxhall.
fontinulus secunda ; on trees at Box- hill.
Galtopsis tetrahit fi. White-flowered Nettle Hemp, with
Purple Whorls ; on a bank by the Thames
side, in Battersea fields, almost overagainst
Chelsea College.
Galium palustre. White Lady's Bed-straw ; in and about the
pits at Streatham.
spurium. Goose-grass, with smoother seeds; in corn-
iielcU, near Leatherhead, and elsewhere.
Genista Anglica. Needle Furze, or Petty Whin ; on Nor-
wood, Croydon, and Milcham commons.
Gentiana Amarclla.. Autumnal Gentian, or Fellwort ; on
BanMead downs, in a chalk-pit, near Cheam,
and elsewhere. ,
. I?. — NO. 101.
is watered by the Wey, the Mole, and the Wandle.
The Wey rises at Haslemere, and flows through
part
Geranium lucidwn. Shining Crane's-bill ; on Box-hill, be-
tween Mortlake and Kew, and in the path
from Kew to East Sheen, plentifully.
mosckatum. Musk Crane's-bill, or Muscovy; on
Streatham common.
pratense. Crow-foot Cranes-hill ; between London
> and Dulwich, at Battersea, and by the side of
the road from Kingston to Richmond, and near
Reigate.
rotund/folium. Round leaved Cranes-bill ; between
Baitcrsea and Wandsworth, at Baltersea, and
between Mortlake and Kew-.
Heracleum spnndylium p. A variety of the common Cow
Parsnep ; in the meadows at Baltersea.
Hieraceum murorum. French or Golden Lung-wort; in
Norwood.
• sulxiudvm. Broad-leaved Bushy Hawk-weed ;
between London and Dulwich.
ffippocrepis comosa. Tufted Horse-shoe Vetch ; in chalky
meadows and fields, near Leatherhead, in the
way to Guildford.
Hottunia palustris. Water Violet; in ditches about Chertsey
Thorpe, and elsewhere.
ffyacinthus nonscriptus (florealbo). English Hyacinth, or
Harebells, with a white flower ; in the closes
at Streatham.
Hyoseris minima. Small Swines Succory, or Hawkweed ;
in a sand pit on the right hand of the road
at Petersham, and in a field near Hampton
Court.
Hypericum Androsmimm. Tut'an, or Park-leaves ; in Wim-
bledon woods, and elsewhere:
— — — ElodfS. Marsh St. Peter's-wort, near springs ;
near the Mole and the Wandle, and on Shirley
common, and elsewhere.
pulchritm. Upright St. John's-wort ; on Streatham
common.
ffi/pnum crista-castrcnsif ; ) on Banstead downs and
crigpum; ) Box Hill.
palustre. Marsh Hypnnm ; on the banks of the
Thames at Battersea.
Hypochosris glubra. Smooth Hawkweed ; about Coomb and
Kindlon.
Iberis nudicaitlis. Rock Cress, on barren sandy heaths; near
(he bowling-green at Putney, in a field near
Hampton Court, and on a bank at Reigate.
Jllecehrum verticillattim. Verticillate Knot Grass ; in watery
places.
Inukt pulicuria. Small Flea-bane ; where water has been
stagnated in the winter ; at Dulwich, and
between Dulwich and London.
Jur.cus nrticalatus fi (gktmis alliis). A variety of jointed
Rush; in Peckham fields.
• bufnnius. Toad Rush : where water has been stagnated
in the winter; on Streatham common.
• bufonius f,. A variety of Toad Rush ; on wet hills,
between Streatham and Dulwich.
Campestris p. A variety of small Hairy Wood Rush;
in Battersea fields.
Juniperus communis. Common Juniper ; on Box Hill.
Luetuca virosa. Strong-scented Wild Lettuce ; in the closes
at Streatham.
Lalhraa squamaria. Tooth-wort ; in a shady lane, not far
from Dorking.
Laihijrus nissolia. Crimson Grass Vetch : in fields ; at Dul-
wich, on the Oak-oi-hononr hill, by the wood
at Peckham, in a gravel-pit at Storkwell, in
the closes at Streatham, between Streatham
and Mitcham, and Epsom downs.
4 K Lfithyrtis
SURREY.
pnrt of Hampshire, till it re - enters Surrey at
Wrecklesham, after which, it passes Godalming,
Latkyrus palustris. March Chickling Vetch ; in a watery
place in Peckham fields, on the back of South-
wark.
- sykestris. Narrow Leaved Pease-everlasting; in a
rising meadow, as you go to the Oak-of-
honour hill on the right hand, at Peckham,
and near the great pond at Wimbledon.
ieonunts cardiaca. Mother-wort ; in Coom wood.
Lepidium latifolium. Dittander, or Pepperwort ; in meadows
and pastures.
Lichen glavcus. Shining Liver-wort ; on heaths and stones,
on Banstead downs.
s; J on BQX HJI|
tcatri ; $
.. rangiferirus. Rein-deer Liver-wort ; on Shirley com-
mon in great abundance, and elsewhere.
Linum Radiola. Least Rupture-wort, or All Seed ; on Putney
heath, and near the upper church, Wands-
worth, and elsewhere.
Lithospermum oj/icinale. Common Cromwell ; on the downs
'at Ewell.
Loliwn tcmulentum. Annual Darnel Grass; on Ewell downs.
Lycopodium clatiatiim. Common Club-moss ; on mountains
and heaths, near Esher.
,. inundation. Marsh Club-moss; on wet heaths,
near Esher, on Bagshot heath, on Reigate
heath, and Shirley common.
Lysimachia vulgaris. Yellow Loosestrife: in woody bogs;
on banks of ponds and rivers; in a pond just
at the entrance of Putney heath, on the right
baud, and at Battersea.
Maka, alcea. Vervain Mallow ; by the five mile stone at
Ballam, on the Epsom road, upon the riglit
hand.
Marchantia conica. Conical Marchantia ; on a sand bank,
in plenty, near the old mill, Dorking.
Marrubium vulgare. White Horehouncl ; on rubbish and in
highways, on Stuaiham and Clapham com-
mons.
Afelampgrum cristatum. Crested Cow Wheat; in woods.
Mentha aqaadca j> hirsuta. Round headed Mint ; in watery
places.
— arvensisfr. Water Mint ; in the hedges near Box-hill.
piptrata. Pepper Mint; in watery places and near
rivers, between Croydon and Miicham by the
river.
. i Pulegiuai. Penny Royal, or Pudding Grass ; by the
side of the road, near the ponds on Wandsworth
common, and at Sireatliam.
Mentha tylveitris. Horse Mint ; in marshes and watery places,
between Ripley and Guildford.
Menyunthes nymphoidcs. Fringed Water Lily; in the river
J'hamef, above the bridge at Kingston.
. — trijbliata. Marsh Trefoil, Buck Bean, or Bog
Bean; by the side of the Thames in Battersea
fields, and elsewhere.
Myagrum sativum. Gold of Pleasure; in fields among flax,
above the park at Wimbledon.
Jtlyosurus minimus. Mouse Tail; among corn about Wim-
bledon, in the closes at Streatham on Epsom
downs, and elsewhere.
Mijriophyllurri spicutum. Spiked Water Milfoil ; in the pits
at Streatham.
M.yrica Gale, Goule. Sweet Willow, or Dutch Myrtle ; in
Light Water Moor, in the parish of Windles-
ham, and elsewhere.
Nartliccium Ossifrugum. Lancashire Asphodel, or Bastard
Asphodel ; on turfy marshy bogs, on Putney
heath
Ornithogalum
Guildford, Woking, and Byfleet, receiving in its
course the tribute of many petty streams, and in
turn,
Nepeta Cataria. Nep, or Cat Mint ; in hedges on Streathara
common.
Ocaanthe Crocata. Hemlock Drop-wort ; by the side of a
large pond, near the road, not far north of the
college, at Dulwich.
-" jiitulosa $. Lesser Water Drop-wort ; in the ponds
on Wandsworth common, near the new church
yard,
Ophioglosium vulgatum. Adder's Tongue ; in the meadows
at Battersea.
Ophrys Anthropophora. Green Man Orchis: in chalky
meadows and paslures ; in Landley fields,
between Croomlnust and SeUdom ; in a lane
leading from Smithani bottom to Saunderstead,
and in chalk-pits on Epsom down's.
apifera. Bee Orchis ; on Reigate Hill, Box Hill, and
elsewhere.
-• muscifera. Fly Orchis ; in chalky meadows and
pastures, near Croydon and Wrootliain, plen-
tifully ; in a chalk pit near Leatherhead, and
in chalk-pits near Cheam.
— — spiralis. Triple Ladies Traces; on Reigate Hill, and
on Add ington common.
Orchis bifolia. Butterfly Orchis ; in Norwood and on the
common, and on Penge common, near BecLeu-
harn.
couopsea. Chalk Pits about Epsom and Ewel, and on
Rc-tgate Hill.
Pl/ramidalis. Purple late-flowered Orchis ; in chalk-
pits, Ewell, Epsom, and Reigate.
luteum. Yellow Star of Bethlehem ; in the
meadows at Godalming.
wnbellalum. Common Star of Bethlehem ; in
the closes at S'reatham.
Ornithopus perpusillus. Bird's-foot ; in the fields near Cob-
ham, on Mitcham, Noorwod, and Streatham
commons ; and elsewhere.
Orobunche major. Broom Rape ; in the corn-fields, between
Epsom and Leatherhead, and on Norwood
common.
Orobus tuberosus. Wood Peas, or Heath Peas; on heathy
ground, near Godalming, and on Norwood.
Osmunda rrgalis. Flowering Fern, or Osmund Royal ; by
the side of a coppice at Wevbridge.
spicant. Rough Spleenwort ; in Norwood.
Oxalis Acetosclla. Wood Sorrel ; in Norwood, and elsewhere.
Panicum crusgalli. Loose Panic Grass ; in corn-fields at
Battersea, and about Martha's chapel, near
Guildford.
• tanguirtale, Cock's-foot Panic Grass ; in corn-fields
at Battersea, near Martha's chapel, and in
Wandsworth Field, near the Anchor- ale hoyse,
— I'crticillatum. Rough Panic Grass ; in corn-fields,
by the path leading to Roehampton from
Putney.
• viride. Green Panic Grass ; in sandy fields near
Baltersea, and near Martha's chapel.
Papnvcr duliurn. Long Smooth-headed Poppy ; in corn-fields
at Stockwell.
hybridum. Small Poppy; on the downs at Ewell and
Epsom.
Peplis portulaca. Water Purs-lane ; in the pits at Streatham.
Peiiw punctata. Spotted Peziza ; on horse-dung, at Dulwich
and m Norwood,
— stipituta. Stalked Peziza ; in woods near Guildford,
Phallus Esculentus, Esculent Morell ; at the edge of a spring,
near Shirley common.
. impudicus. Stinking Morell ; in the closes at Strea-
tham.
Pltttfcum
8URHEY.
327
turn, becomes tributary to tlie Thames, at Wey-
The Mole receives that tppellalion near
bridge.
Phascum Montanum. Mountain Phascum, at Clapham.
Phyteuma Orbicularis. Horned Rampions, with a round head
or spike of flowers ; in chalky meadows on the
downs, about Leatherhead, at Dorking, at
Button, and elsewhere.
Pilularia Globulifcra. Pepper Grass ; in the pits, on the left
hand of the road, about 100 paces above the
Mill-house, and near the medicinal wells at
Streatham.
Pimpindla major. Great Burnet Saxifrage ; in a hedge by
the side of the road, between Wimbledon and
Merton.
Poa bulbosa. Bulbose Meadow Grass ; in meadows and pas-
tures at Clapham.
Polygonum amphibium. Perennial Arsmart ; between London
and Dulwich.
• avicularey. A variety of Knot Gross, between
London and Dulwich.
Bistorta. Greater Bistort, or Snakeweed ; in
Battersea meadows, near the Thames.
Hydropiper $ minus. Small Creeping Arsmart;
in watery places, between London and Dul-
wich.
Polypodium oreoptoris. On Shirley common.
Potamogeton crispum. Great Water Caltrops ; in the pits at
Streatham.
Potentilla reptans $. Creeping Tormenlil ; on Oak-of honour
Hill.
Poterium Sanquisorba. Burnet ; on Box Hill, and elsewhere.
Preiianthes muralis. Ivy-leaved Wild Lettuce; on Merton
abbey-walls, and elsewhere.
Prunus Ccrasus. Black Cherry ; in Wimbledon Park.
Pteria Aquilinu /8. A variety of Female Fern, or Brakes ; in
the closes at Streatham.
nanunculus fiamula. Lesser Spearwort ; in wet shady places,
on Wandsworth common.
hederaccous. Ivy-leaved Water Crowfoot ; in
watery places, in Norwood.
1 lingua. Upright Crowfoot, or Spearwort ; between
Rotherhithe and Deptford.
Rhamnus Cutharticiis. Buckthorn, or Purging Thorn ; in the
hedges near Leatheihead, in the closes at
Sireatham, and between London and Dulwich.
frangula. Black-berry-bearing Alder ; in Norwood,
and between London and Dulwich.
Rosa Eglanteria. Sweet Briar, or Eglantine ; on Norwood
common, and in chalk-pits, near Leatherhead.
Si>inosissima. Burnet Rose; On Putney heath, in the
fields ntar Hampton Court, in Waddon Marsh,
at Wimbledon, and near Cheam.
Rubus Idtrus. Raspberry ; on Box Hill, plentifully.
Rumcx pulclier. Fiddle Dock ; between London and Dulwich.
Jtuscus ucutcatus. Knee Holly, Holm, or Butcher's Broom ;
in Norwood, and elsewhere.
Salix caprea J aurita. A variety of the round-leaved Willow,
or Common Sallow ; in woods and hedges,
near Streatham.
pentandria. Sweet Willow; in Wimbledon and Coomb
Wood.
purpurea. Purple Willow ; by the Thames side, be-
tween Vauxhall and Nine Elms.
. — r- repent j>. A variety of Creeping Willow ; on Putney
heath, and in a wood by West Wickliam, and
Addington.
— rubra. lied Willow ; in osier grounds.
Sahia pratensis. Meadow Clary ; in meadows.
Sumbucus Ebulus. Dwarf Elder, or Danewort ; on the bank
at the back of Cuper's Gardens, and on the
left hand of the road, near Ewell church.
the south-eastern extremity of the county, and flows
through a flat country till it arrives at the Downs,
where:
• • • • ' .11 — —
( Sanicula Europcca, Sanicle ; in Norwood, and elsewhere^
, Saponaria qfficinalis. Soapwort; in meadows and hedges,
between London and Dulwich.
offidnalis (flore plena), Soapwort, with a double
flower ; in the closes at Strealham, and in
Lordship lane, by the Green Man.
Sarifraga granulata., White Saxifrage; in Peckliam fields,
in Waddon Marsh, and elsewhere.
~ 'granulata (flors plena). White Saxifrage, with a
double flower ; at Mitcham.
Scabiosa Columbaria. Lesser Field Scabius ; on Duppa's
Hill, and elsewhere.
Scilla autumnalis. Lesser Autumnal Star Hyacinth ; at Moles-
worth, and on Kew Green.
Schtenus albus. White-flowered Rush Grass ; between Wicfc.
ham and Croydon.
Scirpus cesp itosus. Dwarf Club Rush; in a pit on the left
hand of the road, about a hundred paces
above the mill-house, at Streatham.
fluitans. Floating Club Rush ; on Putney heath, and,
elsewhere.
palustris. Club Rush ; in the pits at Strealham.
sctaceus. Least Rush ; in bogs, in Norwood.
Scutelluria minor. Lesser hooded Willow Herb ; in a pit on
the left hand of the road, about an hundred
paces above the mill-house, at Strealham.
Scrophularia vernalis. Yellow Figwort ; in the common
field in the way to Merton, from Mitcham.
Sedum dasyphyllum. Round-leaved Stone-crop ; on walls about
and at Kew, on the; wall of the Botanic
garden.
• Telephium. Orpine, or Live-long ; in Norwood, and
between London and Dulwich.
Senecivio scosus. Cotton, or Stinking Groundsel; on Strea-
tham common.
Serapias latifolia. Broad leaved Serapias ; in the chalk-pits,
going from Epsom to Leatherhead, and else-
where.
grandiftora. Large-flowered Scrapias ; in (he Wads
in Norbury Park, Micklehain, plentifully.
Serratula tinctoria. Saw-wort ; in woods and meadows, between
London and Dulwich.
Sherardia arvensis. Little Field Madder ; in Battersea fields,
Ewell, and elsewhere.
Silene Anglica. Small Corn Catch-fly, or Campion ; in a
sandy field near Coomb, and in a corn-field,
south of Wey bridge church.
Sison inundatum. Least Water Parsnip ; in the pits at Sirea-
tham, on Wandsworth common, on Putney
heath, and between London and Dulwich.
Suymbrium Irio. Broad-leaved Rocket, or Hedge Mustard ;
between London and Dulwich.
Slum latifolium. Great Water Parsnep ; between Rolher-
hilha and Deptford,
Smyrnium Olusalruni. Alexanders; in ditches, near Vauxhall
and Battersea,
Solidago Firga uurea. Common Golden Rod ; in Norwood,
and elsewhere.
Sorbus Aucuparia. Quicken Tree, or Mountain Ash ; in
Norwood.
Spergula laricina. Ciliated Spurry ; near Cobham and Esher.
nodosa. Knotted Spurry, or English Marsh Saxi-
frage ; on a wall of the Thames at Battersea,
anda bank of the Thames, near Nine Elms.
Spiraa Filipendula. Dropwort; on Duppa's Hill, near Croy-
don, near Clapham, on Box Hill, and else*
where.
Splachnum ampuUaceum. Common Splachnum, by West
Wickhani and Addington, near Croydon.
Teucrium
328
SURREY.
where it becomes romantic, and is said " to hide
itself" for two miles. In fact, the soil, beneath and
near the river, is of such a character, that, in times
of drought, this extraordinary phenomenon takes
place ; but in ordinary seasons, never. It then passes
Leatherhead, and Cobham, and meets the Thames
at Ditton. The Wandle rises near Croydon, and
falls into the Thames at Wandsworth, turning, in
its course, forty mills, and furnishing employment
to 2000 persons. Several inconsiderable streams
serve to fertilize and embellish Surrey, among which
must be mentioned a branch of the Medway, rising at
Godstone. It is believed that locks were first con-
structed, in England, on the Wey, the navigation
of which was extended to Godalming, in 1760. A
cut was next made from Basingstoke to the Wey at
Westby, in 1790. The Surrey canal is a cut from
llotherhithc, intended to go to Vauxhall, with a
branch to Mitcham, but not likely to be completed.
The Croydon canal, for which, with the last, an act
of parliament was obtained in 1801, extends from
Croydon to the Surrey canal, at Deptford.
LAKES, SPRINGS, &c.]— On the extensive heaths
about Cobham, are many large ponds, some of
which contain 150 acres ; others, in the south-
eastern part of the county, are, like them, used in
feeding fish for the London market. The springs
of Epsom, Cobham, and S.treatham, with others
at Dulwich, Godstone, &c. were formerly in high
repute, and much frequented.
MINERALS, FOSSILS, &c.] — Iron-ore abounds in
the southern part of the county, and ragstone, con-
taining some iron, is found near the sand-hills,
southward from Blechingley and Dorking, though
from the dearness of fuel it is not wrought. Fuller's
earth, both blue and yellow, is found at Nutfield,
Reygate, Sutton, and Croydon. A stone, which is
at first soft, but when dried extremely hard and
Teucrium Chamapitys. Common Ground Pine ; among the
corn by the side of the road, from Banstead
Downs to Dorking, and in Wimbledon woods,
and elsewhere.
Scorodonia. Wood-sage ; on Norwood.
Thlaspi arvense. Treacle Mustard, or Penny Cress ; in the
meadows on the right hand of Godalming.
hirtum. Perennial Mithridate Mustard ; on a bank, in
the road from Putney to Wandsworth.
Thcsium linophyllum. Bastard Toad-flax ; near Croydon, and
elsewhere.
Trugupogon pratense. Yellow Goat's Beard ; in the closes at
Streatham.
Tremella verrucnsa. Warty Tremella ; in tlie river at Merlon.
u — • granulata ; at Camberwell.
iiostoc. Frog Spawn Tremella ; on Box Hill, and
elsewhere.
Trifolium arvense. Hare's-foot Trefoil ; in dry pastures ami
corn-fields, between Dulwich and London.
Ochroieucum. Yellow-flowered Trefoil ; on Durma's
Hill.
< '- repens ft hybridum. A variety of White Trefoil,
or Dutch Clover, with a codded umbel ; in
wet meadows, near Peckham and Butlmea.
useful, is quarried near Merstham, and sold at one
shilling and sixpence the cubic foot, for fire-hearths,
&e. A soft stone, on the White hills, near Blech-
ingley, is much used by glass manufacturers, in
producing plate-glass of large dimensions. The
lime-stone, about Dorking, affords a lime which is
particularly useful in subaqueous works, and was
employed in the construction of the West India and
Wapping docks. Chalk abounds on the Downs,
and is much used as a manure. Coal was formerly
found in the parishes of Cranley and Warplesdon,
of which Aubrey says, that, as often as the work-
men put their tools into it, they broke. The sand
about Tanridge, Dorking, and Reygate, is much
used for hour-glasses, and is unequalled for fineness
and colour. Brick-earth is found generally ; but
at Nonsuch, is a valuable bed, from which fire-brit'ks
are made, so denominated, because they resist the
action of that element.
ETYMOLOGY.] — The county of Surrey derives its
name from its situation. Its Saxon name, " Suthrea,"
owed its origin to the words, " suth," signifying-
south, and " rea," a river, which it received from
being situated on the south side of the Thames.
GENERAL HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, &c.] — The most
ancient inhabitants of this county, of which we have
any record, were the Segontiaci, originally from
Belgia, whose first settlements in this island were
in the west of Hampshire ; whence they were obliged
to retire eastward on the arrival of another Belgic
colony ; and, in the course of time, they were all
confined within that tract which now constitutes the
counties of Surrey and Sussex. Such was their
situation in the time of Ptolemy, by whom they are
denominated Regni. — Under the Roman domina-
tion, this district constituted part of the province
of Britannia Prima, or the portion southward of the
Thames and Severn. Under the Saxons, Surrey
Trifolium striatum. Knotted Trefoil ; on Mitcham com-
mon.
. — subterranean. Dwarf Trefoil ; on Mitcham, Shirley,
and Streathajii commons, and at Stockwell.
Turritis hirsuta. Hairy Tower Mustard ; in Smitham bottom,
near Croydon.
Tussilago Petasites. Common Butter Bur ; near the mill at
Battersea.
f'aleriana dioica. Small Wild, or Marsh Valerian ; in wet
meadows, at Battersea.
• Locusta. Lamb's Lettuce, or Corn Sallad ; in the
closes at Streatham.
rubra. Red Valerian ; on Merton Abbey walls.
Vtrbascum nigruni. Sage-leaved black Mullein ; near the mill
at Baltersea.
Veronica scutellata. Narrow-leaved Water Speedwell ; in
watery places ; in the pits at Streatham, and
on Putney heath.
Vinca major. Greater Periwinckle ; in a lane leading from
Baitcrsi-a meadows to Wandsworth, and by the
ruad side to Dulwich.
Viola, Palusiris. Marsh Violet; in wet meadows on Shirley
CO4W11OI1.
and
SURREY.
3-29
and Sussex formed the distinct slate of " Suth-
Scaxnarice," or Kingdom of the South Saxons ;
which was founded by Ella, about A. D. 491, and
had its own sovereigns till 725, when it was sub-
dued by Ina, King of Wessex. — Surrey was dread-
fully ravaged by the Danes; and, subsequently,
William the Norman divided amongst his followers
the lordship of this county, as he had done those
of others. — In the later history of this county
nothing worthy of particular notice occurs, except
that during the contest between Charles the First
and his parliament, Surrey strenuously supported
the proceedings of the latter. In the early part of
those commotions, a petition from this county, sub-
scribed by 2,000 persons, was presented to the
House of Commons, and another to the Lords,
congratulating them on the measures which they
had adopted ; complaining of the delays in relieving
Ireland, and thi> distractions of the nation, which
could not be redressed as long as there were evil
counsellors about the king, and popish lords in the
house, and praying that they might be removed.
This petition, in a day or two, produced the hills
against bishops' votes, the pressing of soldiers, &c.
That this district contained any permanent Roman
stations, there is no positive evidence ; yet there
are strong presumptive proofs of the existence of
such stations at Kingston on the Thames, and at
Woodcote near Croydon, which is apparently on
very good grounds, considered by Camden and
Jiorsley as the Noviomagus of Ptolemy.— In St.
George's Fields, Southwark, where many Roman
coins and pavements have at different times been
found, was the centre of several Roman ways. One
of these was the Ermine Street, which ran nearly
parallel to, and at a small distance to the eastward
of, the present turnpike-road, through Clapham,
Tooting, Merton, Ewell, and Epsom, to Ashted ;
and then proceeded in nearly a southern direction
across Mickleham Down, where it is still plainly
•visible, to Dorking. From Dorking it was con-
tinued along a remarkable ridge of hills, leaving
Guildford about a mile on the north, to Farnham,
beyond which town it entered the adjacent county
of Hampshire. — The Stane Street, or Stone Street
Causeway, a branch of the Ermine Street, com-
mences at Dorking, and passing through the church-
yard, it may be clearly traced through the parish
of Ockley, till it enters the county of Sussex in
its progress southward to the city of Chichester,
Another Roman military way beginning1 at the
metropolis, and also known by the name of the
Stane Street, intersected the county near its eastern
border from north to south, and has been traced
through Streathaui, Croydon, CouUdon, Caterham,
and Godstone ; till it enters Sussex, where it in
continued through Lindfield to Shoreham. — Re-
mains of Roman encampments are found on Holm-
bury hill, Ockley, about two miles from the western
S^tane Street; and on Bottle-bill, in the parish of
VOL. iv. — NO. 161.
Warlingham, near the eastern military way, whick
bears the same denomination ; but the most exten-
sive work of this kind, is that of St. Gcorge's-hill,
Walton-on-the-Tliames. At Walton-on-the-Hill,
also, great quantities of Roman bricks and other
relics, discovered within an inclosure of earth-work,
mark the site of edifices, the foundation and ar-
rangement of some of which have been traced. On
Blackheath, in the parish of Aldbury, are the re-
mains of a Roman temple, surrounded with embank-
ments.— Vestiges of various other works, designed
for military purposes, are to he found in different
parts of the county. Some of these, as Hanstie
Bury, on a projection of Leith-hill, about four
miles south of Guildford, and the fortilication on
War Coppice-bill, in Caterhara, are ascribed to
the Danes ; but the origin of others, such as the
small camp on a common in the parish of Effing-
ham, &o. is unknown.
CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL GOVERNMENT, DIVI-
SIONS, &c.] — The first ecdesisastical authority to
which Surrey became subject was that of Wilfred,
bishop of the South Saxons, who, towards the close
of the seventeenth century, fixed his episcopal see
at Selsey, in Sussex. It was afterwards annexed
to the jurisdiction of the bishop of the West Saxons ;
and at length, on the erection of Winchester into a
separate diocese in 705, it became a member of that
see, to which it has ever since belonged, witli the
exception of nine churches, that formerly constituted
the deanery of Croydon, and are at this day pecu-
liars to the see of Canterbury. — Under the bishop
of Winchester, this county is subject to the arch-
deacon of Surrey, whose jurisdiction includes the
whole of it, except the peculiars. This archdea-
conry was founded in or before ] 120, and is endowed
with the rectory of Farnham, including the chapel-
ries of Sell, Frensham, and EUtcd, in this county,
and Bentley, in Hampshire. The archdeaconry
of Surrey was formerly subdivided into the four
deaneries of Ewell, Southwark, Guildford, and
Croydon ; but from the time of the Reformation, it
has consisted of three only : Ewell, Southwark, and
Stoke. The county contains 139 parishes, and two
parts of parishes.
Surrey had its own high sheriff till about the
beginning of the reign of King John, when it was
joined with Sussex ; and though under some suc-
ceeding sovereigns it was occasionally under a sepa-
rate jurisdiction, it was not till 1015, that a distinct-
officer began to be regularly appointed for each
county. It lies in the home circuit, the lent assizes
being held at Kingston, and the summer assizes at
Guildford and Croydon alternately. It has 10 petty
sessions, and 144 acting county magistrates.
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.] — Surrey re-,
turns fourteen members to parliament ; two for the
county, and two for each of the boroughs of South-
wark, Guildford, Reygate, Haslcmere, Blechiugley,
and Gatton,
4 n MARKET
300
SURREY.
MARKET TOWNS.] — The following are the market
towns of this county, with their population : —
Towns. Market-days.
Chertsey ...„. Wednesday
Population.
ISO! 1811
2819 3629
Croydo'n Saturday.! 5743 7801
Dorking ..Thursday 3058 3259
Epsom Friday 2404 2515
Ewell Thursday 1112 1135
Farnliani Thursday 2508 2911
Godalming Wednesday 3405 3543
Guildtord Saturday, 2634 2974
Haslemere Wednesday.... 642 756
Kingston Saturday , 3793 4144
Reygate Tuesday 1128
Southwark...Mon....Wed...and Friday 57,515 72,1 19
Woking Tuesday 1,340 1,578
FAIRS.] — B/etchingley — June 22, November 2,
horses, bullocks, and toys.
Bookliam — Old Michaelmas-day, cattle, horses,
&c.
Uamberwell — August 18, toys, &c.
Chertsey— First Monday in Lent, horses, cattle,
and hops; May 14, horses, and cattle; August 6,
September 25 ; horses, cattle, and hogs.
Cot/tarn— March 17, December 11, horses and
sheep.
Croydon — July 5, October 2, horses, bullocks,
toys, and sheep.
Dorking — The day before Ascension-day ; horses,
bullocks, sheep, and toys.
Dulwich — Monday after Trinity-3Ionday, toys,
&c.
Egham— May 30.
Epsom — August 5, toys.
Estter— Old Bartholomew-day, Sept. 4, horses.
Ewell — May 12, October 29, horses, bullocks,
sheep, and toys.
Farnham — Holy Thursday, June 4, horses, cattle,
sheep and liogs ; November 13, horses and cattle.
Froaerheath — June 16, pedlar's- ware.
Godalming — February 13, horses, cattle, sheep,
and hops ; July 10, horses, cattle, sheep, and store-
pigs.
Guildford — May 4, November 2, horses, cattle,
sheep, and hogs.
Bam, near Richmond — May 26, pedlars' -ware.
Hastemere — May 12, September 25, horses, cattle,
sheep, and hogs.
Katharine Hill — October 2, horses, household
goods and apparel.
Kingston — Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, in
Whit, week, horses, and toys; August 2, horses;
August 3, 4, fruit and pedlary ; Nov. 13, horses,
cattle, and toys.
Leatherhead — Old Michaelmas-day October 10,
horses, cattle, &c.
Limpffield — May 2-2.
Lingjfield—*M.ay 12, June 29, July 25, October 10,
cattle and pedlary,
Mitcham— August 12, toys.
Mortlake—Ji\\y 19, toys, &c.
feckham — August 21, toys, &c.
Ripley — November 10, cattle, sheep, pigs, and
pedlary.
Reigate — Whit. Monday, bullocks and horses ;
first Wednesday in every month, a market for cattle.
Sydenham -Trin. Monday, toys, &c.
Thorp, near Egham — May 29, pedlary.
Walton — Wednesday in Easter-week, horses, cat-
tle, and sheep.
IVanbro*, near Guildford — September 4, horses,
cattle, and sheep.
Wandsworth — Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday,
in Whit, week, horses, and toys.
Woking, near Ripley — Tuesday, toys.
TRADE, MANUFACTURES, &c.] — The number of
persons employed in manufacture is small, though
there are several establishments where valuable
brandies of industry are carried on. Surrey maybe
described as the retreat of traders, rather than as
the scene of their operations.
ROADS.] — The roads of Surrey are flat, and often,
neglected ; add to which the badness of the mate-
rials, and the number and height of over-hanging
trees — and the consequence is a palpable inferiority
to the roads of other counties. An iron rail-way,
from Wandsworth to Croydon, 24 feet wide, and
10 miles long, was projected in 1802. The rise
is one. inch in ten feet. The success of this under-
taking induced the continuation of it from Croy-
don to Merstham. On the 24th of July, 1805, an
extraordinary instance of the power of a horse, when,
assisted by art, was shewn near Croydon. On the
completion of the railway, a bet was made that a
common horse could draw thirty -six tons for six
miles along the road ; and that he should draw this
weight from a dead pull, as well as turn it round
the occasional windings of the road. A number of
waggons loaded with stones were chained together,
and a horse taken promiscuously from the timber-
cart of Mr. Harvvood, was yoked into the team : he
drew the immense chain with apparent ease six miles,
in one hour and forty-one minutes. He stopped
four times, to shew that it was not by the impetus
of the descent that the power was acquired — and
after each stoppage, he drew off the chain of wag-
gons at a dead rest. After the trial, the waggons
were taking to the weighing machine, and it apr
peared that the whole weight was 55 tons, 6 cwt.
and 2 qrs. — At Wandsworth is a large bason, capa-
ble of holding more than thirty barges, for the par-
pose of forming a communication between the railway
and the Thames.
POPULATION.] — In the year 1700, the population
of this county amounted to 154,900; and, in 1811,
as appears at length, in the following table, to
323,851.
Summary
SURREY. 331
Sam/nary nf the Population of the County of SURREY, a* published by Authority of Parliament, in 181).
HUNDREDS, &c.
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
Inhabited.
B-'H
Wy
z £^
2 -='5.
«i
tb
2
- da
Uninhabited.
»-,
<3 3 .
•|- S!
u £ 3
c/t ^"3
.52.2 o
~ 5" sb
« s<
b
;»>
!.si«
•5-3.5*!
j ?^ .
Crt >••« tf
SJ O „- ti
£ 5 2 €
n ^ r^ rt
U. t^v
All other Fami-
lies not comprised
in (lie two pre-
cedingClasses.
Females
Males.
Total
o
Persons
1113
24050
1367
197
1065
1174
1473
185
2200
1666
1281
3078
1637
984
495
11802
1306
32109
1584
215
1169
1288
1678
1972
2551
1700
1465
3437
1762
1098
596
18629
5
609
9
1
1
6
3
11
24
36
2
10
• 3
2
17
121
29
887
37
2
48
29
30
77
75
35
27
44
36
25
15
294
792
21S2
702
154
426
693
891
1069
454
1005
1026
1271
1110
540
46
116
263
17510
471
41
335
441
691
464
1 188
466
319
1343
384
300
434
10510
251
12477
411
20
408
J54
96
439
909
229
120
823
268
258
116
8003
3380
60328
4075
591
3018
3300
4215
5236
6030
4353
3960
8741
4409
2868
1382
33611
2314
3217
7632S
4164
595
3001
3453
4339
5194
7360
4235
3697
9140
4407
2810
1592
38508
6597
136656
8239,
1186
6019
6753
8554
10430
133yO
8588
7657
17881
8816
5678
2974
72119
2314
Wotton ,
Joroiigli of Soulhwark
Totals
55434
725059
1360
1690
12417
35160
24982
151,811
172040
323851
CHIEF TOWNS, HUNDREDS, PARISHES, &c.
BLACKHEATH.] — The hundred of Blackheath,
bounded, on the north, by Woking hundred ; on
the east, by Woton ; on the south, by Sussex ;
and, on the west, by Godalming ; contains eleven
parishes : — • Aldbury, Alt'old, Brauiley, Cranley,
Dunsfold, Ewhurst, Hascomb, St. Martha's, Shal-
ford, Shire, and Wonersh. The property of this
hundred was granted by James the First, to Sir
Edward Zouch, to be held by the service of carrying
up the first dish to the king's table, on the feast of
St. James, next after each new succession to the
inheritance ; but that nobleman dying1 without issue,
the estates fell, by deed of Reversion of Charles the
Second, to the Duchess of Cleveland, who died in
1709. It was then conveyed by the trustees to John
Walter, Esq. whose son sold it to Richard, Lord
Onslow.
At Aldbury is a quadrangular platform, each side
of which is twenty-two yards, situated in an enclo-
sure of the same form, each side of which extends
2'20 yards. This object, supposed to be the site of
a Roman temple, is marked by a raised bank, con-
taining Roman tiles, and other relics. The western
side of the outward inclosure is a double bank, and
ditch, in a perfect state. — Aldbury Place, once the
residence of the Dukes of Norfolk, is now the pro-
perty of Mr. Wall, who, purchased it, in 1811. The
mansion is elegant, and the park well-wooded and
extensive. — Weston House was built about a cen-
tury ago, and is now the residence of the Rev. M.
Godschall. The church contains two remarkable
octagonal pillars, which seem to have belonged to
another edifice, perhaps the temple already men-
tioned. Here are many monuments of the family
of Duncuuibe, of Weston House ; and, in the chan-
cel, is a marble pyramid to the memory of Sir
Robert Godschall, lord mayor of London, in 1742.
William Oughtred, a celebrated mathematician, who
is said to have expired with excess of joy at the
Restoration, is also interred here.
Baynards, a mansion, in the parish of Cranley,
has been converted into a farm-house, as has the
Knoll, both the property of Earl Onslow. Jn the
latter, is a large parlour, on the antique chimney-
piece of which, are the arms of Sir Richard Onslow,
with the inscription " ^Estate Ji'igeo hyeme inca/esco."
The Vacherie was a spacious mansion in this parish,
of which nothing remains but the foundation, and
the moat by which it was surrounded. The windows
of the church are adorned with splendid remains of
stained glass and tracery. Thomas de Cranley,
archbishop of Dublin, lord-chancellor, and chief-
justice, in the reign of Henry the Fii'ih, is supposed
to have been a native of this place.
On a woody ridge, in the parish of Hascomb, are
the remains of a Roman camp, the works of which
are single, and the area square. A beech-tree on
this hill, of extraordinary size, is denominated the
Hascomb-Beech. On the site of the encampment
is a telegraph, forming part of the line, between
Portsmouth and London.
The church of St. Martha's-on-the-Hill, was
built of flints and rough stones, in the form of a
cross, of which the choir and transept are entire.
This church, situated on a lofty eminence, and dedi-
cated
332
SURREY.
cated to St. Martha, and all Holy Martyrs, appears
to have been founded asachauntry, over t\\e graves
of some Christians who suffered there.
At Shalford, is Shalford House, the seat of H. E.
Austin, Ksq. adorned with some valuable pictures,
by Aunihal Caracci, Vandyck, Rubens, and other
masters of celebrity.
The village of Shire is agreeably situated on the
Tillingbourn, a branch of the Wey, at the southern
foot of the chalk hills. The present proprietor,
William Bray, Esq. who has effected great improve-
ments, and united the manor of Shire Eborum
to his possessions, is the lineal descendant of Sir
Reginald Bray, a partisan and wise councillor of
Henry the Seventh.— Netley House is the seat of
E. S. Loman, Esq. The church is a handsome
edifice, consisting of a nave, chancel, and one aisle.
The windows are embellished with stained glass,
representing the arms of England, Ormoud,Warren,
and Clare, with the device of Sir Reginald Bray,
end the red and white roses of the rival houses of
Lancaster and York. An antique marble bears the
date 1412, and another to the memory of the youngest
daughter of the fourth Earl of Ormond, is inscribed
1435. An altar-tomb of marble bears the effigies,
in armour, of John Lord Audley, with that of a
greyhound chained at his feet. Here are also monu-
ments of the Duncumbes.
Wonersh was once of some note for its manufac-
tures, chiefly of blue cloth for the Canary islands,
but the trade was ruined by the frauds of the sellers,
who found a method of stretching the pieces, which
contained 18 yards, to a length of 22 or 23 yards,
•which rendered the cloth thinner and less durable.
Green Place, near the church, is the mansion of
Lord Grantley, whose father, Fletcher Norton, Esq.
was made, in 1769, chief-justice in Eyre, south of
Trent ; in 1770, he was chosen Speaker of the House
of Commons ; and, in 1782, was raised to the peer-
age, by the title of Lord Grantley, Baron of Mark -
enfield, in the county of York.
BRIXTON.] — The hundred of Brixton, separated,
by the Thames, from Middlesex, towards the north ;
and bounded, on the east, by Kent ; on the south,
by Wallington hundred ; and on the west, by Kings-
ton ; thus forming the north eastern extremity of
the county, was anciently denominated Brixistan,
an appellation apparently derived from a pillar
erected by Brixi, one of its Saxon proprietors. It
lies in the deanery of Southwark, and comprehends
the following parishes :— Barnes, Battersea, Ber-
mondsey, Camberwell, Clapham, Christ Church,
Lambeth, Merton, Mortlake, Newington Butts,
Putney, Rotherhithe, St. George, St. John, St. Savi-
our, St. Olave, St. Thomas, Streatham, Tooting,
Wandsworth, and Wimbledon— in all twenty-one.
Barnes, a parish situated on the south bank of
the Thames, is both extensive and populous. The
church was probably erected about the reign of
Richard the First, except the tower, which is of a
much later date : the latter is built of brick, while
the rest of the structure is of white-stone and flint.
Near the altar, was formerly an ancient monument,
consisting of the brazen effigies of a man in armour,
bearing in his right hand a dagger, and, in his left,
a sword, with this inscription : —
Hicjacet WUliclmus MiUebnnrne Anni^er, <jui obiitdie in
Sancte Luce Evrmgeliste, a° Dom. MCCCCXV.
Quisquis eris, qui-transieris, sta, perlege, plora,
Sum quod eris, fueram quod es, pro me, precor, era.
The manor-house of Barn-Elms was selected by
Sir Francis Walsingham, as his country residence ;
and at this place he was honoured with several visits
by his royal mistress. This nobleman, though u
minister of state, died in such straitened circum-
stances, that he was interred at the expence of his
friends in a private manner. The manor lias, since
the Conquest, been vested in the dean and chapter
of St. Paul's, except during the short period of the
Interregnum ; after which time, till the middle of
the last century, the Cartwright family were the
lessees. The poet Cowley died of fever, contracted
on this spot, whither he had retired from the con-
fined and unwholesome air of the city. The house
was tenanted in the reign of George the Second, bj
Heydegger, master of the revels to that monarch,
of whom it is related, that having notified to Hey-
degger his intention to sup with him one evening,
he was received in a manner which betrayed great
inattention to his accommodation, when, after he
had been suffered to vent a little of his ill humour,
the house and avenues were illuminated in an in-
stant, by a great number of lamps, so disposed, as
to communicate with each other. History adds,
' that his Majesty laughed heartily at the device, and
went away much pleased with his entertainment.'
In 1750, the manor was purchased by Sir Richard
Hoare, who was sheriff of London in 1740-1, and
lord mayor, in 1745, on which occasion he received
the honour of knighthood. At his death, in 1754,
he was succeeded by his son Richard, who was
created a baronet in 1786, and in the following year
died at Bath, leaving the estate to his widow, who
also died in 1800, when her ladyship's eldest son,
Henry Hugh, succeeded to this property. Barn
Elms is situated in a park of more than 600 acres,
surrounded on three sides by the Thames, and
totally undeserving of the imputation of insalu-
briousness, which the biographer of Cowley first
authorized. Among other valuable paintings, the
mansion is embellished with two of the finest land-
scapes of Gaspard Poussin. Fielding, the student
of human nature ; Handel ; and Vandrebank, the
painter, resided at this village. The Kit-cat Club,
to which Tonson, the bookseller, was secretary, was
once held at Barn Elms ; where a handsome room
was built for the accommodation of the members,
•whose portraits, painted by Kiteller, decorated the
walls.
Battersea is seated on the Thames, and gives
the title of Baron to the family of St. John. The
church
SURREY.
ssa
church contains many monuments, chiefly of the
above noble family, particularly one in grey marble,
to the memory of the celebrated statesman, Henry
St. John Viscount Bolingbroke, and of his second
•wife, whose profiles are sculptured in bass-relief.
A monument near the south wall, represents Sir
Edward Wynter, in the act of performing two ex-
traordinary exploits, thus described in his epitaph : —
Alone, unarmed, a tyger he oppressed,
Aii'l crush'd to death the monster of a beast.
Twice twenty mounted Moors he overthrew,
Singly on foot, some wounded, some he slew,
Dispersed the rest— what more could Samson do ?
A neat tablet, at the eastern end of the church com-
memorates Thomas Astle, who was long a distin-
guished member of the Society of Antiquaries,
keeper of the records in the Tower, a trustee of the
British Museum, and author of a treatise " on the
Origin and Progress of Writing." He died in
1802, and left a valuable collection of manuscripts.
Here are also interred : — Arthur Collins, Esq. known
as the author of an " Historical Account of the
Peers and Baronets of England ;" William Curtis,
author of the " Flora Londinensis ;" and the Rev.
Joseph Gardner,' author of " Views on the Rhine,"
and otherwise distinguished by his attachment to the
arts. — Bolingbroke House was a spacious edifice,
said to have contained fifty rooms on a iloor, of
which a few only remain ; among which is the,
favourite apartment of Lord Bolingbroke, wains-
cotted with cedar. A horizontal air-mill now occu-
pies the site of this mansion, and in the gardens have
been erected bullock-houses. Sherwood Lodge, near
the Thames, is the residence of Jens Wolf, Esq.
whose valuable collection of plaster-casts from an-
tique statues, are deposited in a gallery of Doric
architecture, remarkable for the purity of its style.
A wooden bridge was built over the Thames, at this
place, in 1771.
Bermondsey stretches along the banks of the
Thames, from Southwark to Deptford, and Rother-
hithe eastward, and is much inhabited by wool-
staplers, fell-mongers, curriers, parchment-makers,
and other manufacturers, with such craftsmen as
are connected with the construction and manage-
ment of shipping. A priory for monks was founded
here in 1082, by-Aylwin Child, a citizen of London,
and endowed by the second William with his manor
of Bermondsey. In 1399, it was made an abbey,
and, at the Dissolution, it was granted to Sir
Thomas Pope, who built on its site a large house,
which ai'terwards-became the property and residence
of the Earls of Sussex. Another part of the site is
the property of James Riley, Esq. whose residence
is called the Abbey Hduse. Catherine, the queen
of Henry the Fifth, and Elizabeth, queen of Edward
the Fourth, retired to this place, where they died,
the former in 1436 ; the latter soon after the forfei-
ture oilier lands, by an order of the council, in 1486.
The church was erected, in 1080, of brick, with a
VOL. iv. — NO. 165.
low square tower and turret, and consists of a chan-
cel, nave, two aisles, and a transept. A free- school
was founded by Mr. Josiah Bacon, and endowed
with a revenue of 150/. for the instruction of not
more than sixty, or fewer than forty boys. A Cha-
rity -school was also established, by contributions,
in 1755, for the education of fifty boys, and thirty
girls, and was afterwards endowed by Mr. Nathaniel
Smith, with a revenue of 40/. per jannuin. The
Bermondsey Spa was discovered, in 1/70, and,' by
means of the attractive entertainments contrived by
the proprietor, became a place of general resort,
but soon after his death, the gardens were closed,
and the area is now built upon.
At Camberwell, on the summit of Grove Hill, is
the residence of the late John Coakley Lettsom,
M.D. a plain structure, with low wings, and a front
adorned with figures, emblematical of Liberality and
Plenty. The library contained 6000 choice volumes,
and a valuable cabinet of shells, insects, minerals,
and other subjects of natural history. The gardens
and pleasure-grounds are finely embellished with
classical designs, and curious productions of an.
elegant imagination, perfected by art. Among these,
in a circular temple, which commands a view of the
metropolis, are the designs, in cork, of Du Bourg.
A rural cottage is supported by the trunks of
eighteen oak trees, which form a colonnade, en-
twined with evergreen. A spring, supplying a canal
and fountain, in which is a statue of Venus, by
Locattelli, gave name to the village, and is celebrated
as the place where George Barnwell, the hero of
Lillo's tragedy, perpetrated the murder of his uncle.
Dulwich is a pleasant hamlet, belonging to Cam-
berwell, and interesting chiefly on account of its
college, which was founded in 1619, after a design
by Inigo Jones. This institution, endowed by the
founder, Edward Alleyne, Esq. with the manor of
Dulwich, lands in Lambeth parish, and the parish
of St. Botolph's Bishopsgate ; and the Fortune
Theatre, was designed for the maintenance of a
master, warden, four fellows, six poor brethren, and
six sisters, all unmarried, twelve scholars, and thirty
out-members. In 1808, the revenues amounted to
3781/. The master and warden must be 'of the
blood and name of the founder, the poor brethren
and sisters must be sixty, and the scholars from six
to eight years old, at their admission. The build-
ing consists of a front and two wings ; the chapel,
which occupies the eastern end of the former, con-
tains a copy of Raphael's Transfiguration, by Julio
Romana"; and, in the western wing, is a picture
gallery 77 feet long, enriched, in 1811, with the
pictures of Sir Francis Bourgeois, who bequeathed
10,000/. for their preservation, and 2000/. for, re-
pairing the gallery. Knight's Hill, near Dulwich,
pulled down some years since, was the seat of Lord
Thurlow.
Christ Church, situated between Blackfriars'
Bridge and the Obelisk, was originally a part of
the district, called the Liberty of Paris Garden.
4-jp Tin
SURREY.
The first church, erected in 1671, became so ruin-
ous in 1737, that an act was obtained for rebuilding
it, in its present form, which is of brick, with a
square tower and cupola. A charity-school is main-
tained by subscription, and an alms-house was found-
ed, in 1730, by Charles Hopton, Esq. fur twenty-six
decayed house-keepers, who have each two rooms,
with 10/. per annum, and a chaldron of coals. Seve-
ral excellent institutions are comprehended within
the limits of this parish, among which the Philan-
tropic Society is conspicuous. It was first esta-
blished, in 1788, for the purpose of educating the
offspring of convicted felons, who are likewise
taught various trades, or qualified for respectable
service. The number of children is about 180, of
which 50 or 60 are girls. The chapel, which is
large and handsome, is numerously attended, by
persons of rank and fortune. — The Magdalen Hos-
pital, on the western side of Blackfriars' Road, was
established, in 1758, for the reception, reformation,
and encouragement in virtue, of unhappy prosti-
tutes, of whom 80 can be maintained atone.time;
the regulations and treatment are gentle and appro-
priate, and, mostly, efficient for the desirable end
in view. A school, situated between the Obelisk
and the King's Bench Prison, is conducted on the
system of Mr. Joseph Lancaster, by which 500 or
000 children are instructed in reading, writing, and
the simple rules of arithmetic, under the direction of
a single master, at an annual expence of 5s. each.
Near the Obelisk, on the site of the notorious Dos*
and Duck Tea Gardens, is the School of the Indi-
gent Blind, of whom 50 or 00 are instructed in the
manufacture of thread, baskets, &c. and a trade is
established, which yields a yearly profit of 600/. to
the institution. The Surrey Theatre, which was
erected about forty years since, having been de-
stroyed by fire, in 1805, was rebuilt in a tasteful
manner, and appropriately fitted up for dramatic
representations. The Cobourg Theatre, recently
founded, near the Waterloo Bridge, is become noted
for the exhibitions of the melo-dramatic muse, and
deserves the prosperity it enjoys, — The Obelisk,
built of free-stone, in 1771, in honour of Brass
Crosby, Esq. who had been confined for conscien-
cio'isly discharginghis duty as a magistrate, stands at
the point where the Westminster, Southwark, New*
ington, and Lambeth roads meet. The Surrey, com-
monly called Rowland Hill's, meeting, is an octa-
gonal building, capable of holding 5000 persons,
and furnished with an organ, remarkable for the
sweetness and strength of its tones. An establish-
ment, called the Surrey Institution, has beei; re-
cently formed at a house near Blackfriars1 Bridge,
formerly the Leverian Museum, for the general
^illusion of science, the means of which are nn
extensive library, philosophical apparatiiH, and vari-
ous courses of lectures. At the -foot of this bridge,
is a range of buildings, which were formerly called
the Albion Mills, a work of great utility, set on foot
by a company of opuluut and spirited men, to coun-
teract the frauds of millers. On the 3d of March,
1791, this building was consumed by fire. On the
opposite side of Albion Place, is the British Plate
Glass manufactory. In St. George's Fields, which
50 years ago, were little better than a swamp, a new
town, as it may be termed, has risen, containing
several handsome streets.
Claphanv. situated on a common, lately much
improved by draining and planting, is the country
residence of many opulent merchants of London.
The church, built, in i77t>, at un expence of 1(),000/.
contains some splendid monuments, and a simple
tablet to the memory of Martin Lister, physician to
Queen Anne, and a learned naturalist, with whoso
i book, entitled " Synopsis ConchyUum," the world
is well acquainted.
Lambeth includes the hamlets of Vauxhall, Ken-
ningtou, Stockwell, and South Liinibeth, a district
10 miles in circumference, and comprising an area
of 4000 acres. It is first mentioned in history, in
1011, when Hardicanute died of debauch at the
marriage of a noble Dane, celebrated here. In
1197, it became the property of Hubert Waller,
archbishop of Canterbury, to which see it has, ever
since, remained annexed. Lambeth Palace is an
extensive but irregular edifice, displaying all the
varieties of architecture from the Conquest to the
present day. Beneath the chapel is a erypt, the
arches of which are of stone ; and, in the vestry,
aru some portraits, among which, is that of Car-
dinal Pole, In 1648, the palace was seld, by order
of the parliament, and the chapel converted into a
dancing-room, for which purpose the tombs of arch-
bishop Parker and other prelates were removed, and
their bones scattered promiscuously. The great
hall, 93 feet long, and 38 broad, was built by Juxon ;
and the guard-room, 56 feet long, and 27{ broad,
contains a full length portrait of Henry, eldest son
of James the First. The drawing-room is of recent
erection ; but the long gallery, 90 t'eet long, and 10
broad, was built by Cardinal Pole, and is adorned
with portraits of Luther, and archbishop Warhatn, by
Ilolbnin ; Catharine Parr, archbishop Parker, Car-
dinal Pole, and all the archbishops of Canterbury,
from Arundell to Moore inclusive, with various
others. The library occupies four galleries over
the cloisters, and consists of 25,000 volumes, col-
lected by Bancroft, Sheldon, Tenisan and Seeker,
The Lollards' Tower, was built in J435, and intend-
ed, as its name imports, for a place of confinement
for heretics, The gardens, which are extensive ;
contain two fig-trees of largo growth and great
vigour, supposed to have been planted by Cardinal
Pole, Of the archbishops who have died here, only
six were interred at Lambeth ; Parker, in 1573 j
Bancroft, in 1610; Tenison, in 1715; Seeker, in
1768; Cornwallia, in 1783 j and Moore, in 1803,
Both Queen Mary and Elisabeth, frequently honour-
ed this palaoo with their presence, The church,
situated near the palace, vim built in 13?7, and
consists of a nuvo, two aisles, and a chancel ; this
last
INTIEMOJR O.'F TIME IlAILJL OF 1LAMBIETM FAILACE,
Su irry.
SUJIREY.
35*
last contains monuments in honour of those pre-
lates who were interred here, and of Hutton, who
died in 1758. The Howard chapel contains some
monuments of that family, and one in memory 01
Elias Ashmole. The cemetery in the High Streei
contains the ashes of Edward Moore, autlior'ol
" Fables for the Female Sex," and of " the World."
Thomas Cooke, the translator of Hesiod, Terence,
and Cicero, and the editor of the " Craftsman," is
also interred here. Among the rectors of. Lambeth
were George Hooper, bishop of Bath and Wells ;
Edmund Gibson, bishop of London ; and Bcilby
Porteus ; other celebrated persons interred here,
were the apostate Dr. Perne Dean of Ely, and
Simon Forman, the pretender to magic. There are
at least, seven meeting-houses for dissenters in
this parish, with two chapels, in which the rites of
the church are celebrated in the Welch tongue.
In 1758, the Asylum was established for female
orphans, who, when admitted, may not be less than
nine, or more than twelve years, and at a proper
age, are bound as household servants. The Lying-
in-Hospital was instituted, in 1765, for the wives
of indigent persons of all classes, of whom about
500 are admitted yearly, and 200 attended at their
own houses. The governors have recently extended
the benefits of the institution to unmarried females,
provided it be their first offence. The Refuge for
the Destitute was established, in 1800, as an asylum
for persons discharged from prison, and for unfortu-
nate females whom loss of character has deprived of
the means of honest subsistence. A capacious and
magnificent building has recently been erected in
this parish, not far from the School for the Indigent
Blind, for the accommodation and cure of lunatics.
This structure is in Jieu of Bethlem Hospital, which
was situated on the south side of Moorfields, but
which has been taken down,, and its site converted
jnto part of a handsome square. The two line
specimens of 'Sculpture, by Gibber, representing
Melancholy, and Raving Madness, which formerly
decorated the northern entrance of Bethlem Hos-
pital, have been very properly transferred to this new
Asylum for unfortunate Maniacs. In lb'22, seven
alms-houses were founded and endowed for as many
poor women, by Noiil de Caron, ambassador from
Holland. Several free-schools have been founded
and endowed at different periods by beneficent per-
sons, in one of which 300 boys are taught. A dis-
tinguished native of this parish was Thomas Banks,
the late eminent sculptor. Astley's Amphitheatre,
established, in 1768, as a riding-school, has been
twice destroyed by tire. Among the numerous
manufactories of Lambeth, is one for patent shot,
the principal of which is, to let the melted globules
fall from a great height, thut they may be cold before
they reach the water. Near Vauxhull are the wine
and vinegar- works of Mess. Beaufoy, where imita-
tion* of foreign wines, as Madeira, Calcavella, and
JLisbon, are produced in great perfection. Coade and
Sealy's celebrated artificial stone manufactory, near
the foot of Westminster Bridge, is highly deserving
of inspection. Vauxhall, or Faukeslmll, was a large
mansion in that hamlet, the site of which is now
occupied by a distillery. It is supposed, from some
papers in the Spectator and Connoisseur, that Vaux-
hall Gardens were opened for public amusement in
the reign of Queen Anne. They are too well known
to need description. The entertainmonts consist of
vocal and instrumental music, with illuminations
and lire-works. Lands in the manor of Kenningtoii
descend to the youngest son. At this place, was a
royal palace, the site of which is now occupied by
the manor-house. The stables alone remain, 180
feet long, near which, in 1788, were discovered some
spacious stone vaults, the arches of which were
cemented with a substance superior, in hardness, to
stone. The manor of Stockwell is the property of
William Lambert, Esq. In 1772, an imposition was
practised here, by which crowds were attracted to
witness the imaginary exploits of a ghost, which
none could quell, and which long continued to
amuse or terrify the credulous with broken crockery-
ware, and dancing furniture. At South Lambeth
was the physical garden of the Tradescants, of
whom the elder was gardener to Charles the First,
and visited many countries of Europe and Africa,
in his botanical pursuits. His son published a list of
his collection, entitled " Museum Tradescantianum"
and bequeathed it to Elias Ashmole, by whom it was
given to the University of Oxford.
At Merton, was formerly a priory of Augustine
canons, the prior of which sat in parliament as a
mitred abbot. In 1235-0, Henry the Third held a
parliament at this place, when the statutes were
enacted, still known by the name of the statutes of
Merton, and then was made the spirited answer of
the barons to the proposals of the prelates for the
introduction of the imperial and canon laws, " \:o/u-
mus Li'ges Anglice, mulari." The priory stood on the
Wandle, and occupied no less than sixty acres of
ground. Of this extensive religious establishment,
no other remains exist than a window of the chapel,
very ruinous, and apparently built in the fifteenth
century. The greater part of the site is occupied
by three manufactories for printing calicoes, and a
copper-mill. The church of Merton is of high
antiquity, and supposed to have been built by Gil-
bert Norman, in the reign of Henry the First, who
granted the manor for that purpose. A large picture
of Christ bearing the Cross, now much damaged, is
supposed to have been painted by Luca Jordano,
Merton Place was the favourite residence of a man,
who=e deeds have hallowed every thing connected
with his name, Lord Nelson, who bequeaThed it, with
seventy acres of land, to Lady Hamilton. Walter
de Merton, thrice chancellor of England, and keeper
of the Great Seal, was born and educated in this
parish, where he founded a seminary for his larger
institution at Oxford, still known by his name. After
his third chancellorship, he was consecrated bishop of
Rochester, and died three years after, iu 1277.
Mordojj
336
SURREY.
Mordon Park is the residence of George Ridge,
Esq. This beautiful demesne is extensive, and
embellished with two sheets of water. Mordon Hall
is the mansion of Sir Robert Burnett.
At Mortlake, was interred Dr. John Dee, a famous
pretender to magic, in the reign of Elizabeth, who
honoured him with her friendship. Another astro-
loger, John Partridge, the well-known publisher of
an almanac, and physician to Charles the Second,
died, and was buried here, in 1715. Sir John Bar-
nard, whose statue adorns the Royal Exchange, and
John Barber, an alderman of London, who erected
the monument of Butler in Westminster Abbey,
were also interred here. An ancient mansion at this
place was, a century ago, the residence of the bene-
volent Edward Colston. In 1019, a manufacture
of fine tapestry was established here, by Sir Francis
Crane, and patronized by Charles the First ; bat,
after the death of the former, and the dethronement
of the latter, it was discontinued ; and, although
Charles the Second intended its re-establishment, it
wan never effected. East Sheen is a hamlet of this
parish, and contains several handsome villas. Tem-
ple Grove was the residence of Sir William Temple,
who retired hither from the fatigues of public life,
and indulged his exquisite taste for horticultural
pursuits ; here also he received the Prince of Orange,
whose chamber still retains the name of King Wil-
liam's bed-room. The house has been purchased
by a school- master, who has received the value of
the premises, which had been much depreciated
by the tasteless alterations of an intermediate pos-
sessor.
Newington Butts is not mentioned in the Con-
queror's Survey, but is supposed to have arisen
round a new church, and thence to have been called
New, or Newen town, to which the suffix " butts"
was added, on account of the archery practised
there, ft is of small extent, and nearly covered
with houses. The church was rebuilt, with brick,
in 1703, and contains a monument to the memory of
Sarah, second wife of bishop Ilorsley, with a long
inscription from the pen of that learned man, in
which is introduced the emphatic
Uli tuus, Mors, aculens ? Ubi tua, Orce, est Victoria ?
Gloria Deo 1 Hallelujah.
A supplementary inscription informs us that he
survived his beloved wife eighteen months, and was
interred in the same place, A.D. 1806. Several
monuments adorn the walls ; and one, in the church-
yard, perpetuates the memory of an unfortunate
young man, killed by the military, in the riots of
1768 ; with a rancorous inscription, in which texts
of scripture are impressed into the service of party
rage. Near the cross-roads, in this parish, a meet-
ing-house was inscribed ' the House nf (Jod,' and
frequented by the followers of that wretched fanatic,
the late Joanna Southcott. A Charity School is
.supported by subscription, for the education of thirty
boys and twenty girls. The Drapers' Alms-houses
were founded in 1651, by John Walter, for six poor
parishioners, and an equal number of persons nomi-
nated by the Drapers' Company.
Putney was the scene of some interesting trans-
actions, during the civil wars of the seventeenth
century. In 1647, Cromwell, jealous of the par-
liament, and the King, who resided at Hampton
Court, established his head-quarters here, and, with
his officers, held councils in the church, seated round
the communion-table ; having first lent their most
pious attention to a word of instruction from Hugh
Peters, or some other favourite preacher. The
church is chiefly remarkable for a small chapel at
the east end, built by Nicholas West, bishop of Ely,
and finely adorned with Gothic tracery. In the
church-yard, was interred John Toland, a deist,
and author of the Pantheisticon. In a cemetery,
near the Wandsworth and Richmond road, is a
monument, raised to the memory of John Wood,
Esq. an intelligent traveller, and author of an
" Essay on the Genius of Homer," and two splendid
folio works, illustrative of the " Ruins of Palmyra
and Balbec." In 1729, a bridge was constructed
here, 805 feet in length, at the expence of nearly
24,000^. which, two years after, produced a revenue
of 15001. and, at present, returns annually double
that sum. In 1776, a house was erected on Putney
heath, by David Hartley, in order to try the efficacy
of his invention for preserving buildings from de-
struction by fire ; this experiment was witnessed by
the magistrates and the corporation of London, who
caused an obelisk to be erected near the place, with
a suitable inscription to commemorate the invention.
Near the Obelisk is one of the line of telegraphs
from London to Portsmouth. At a mansion on this
heath, called the Bowling-Green House, the Right
Honourable William Pitt breathed his last, on the
23d of January, 1806. Nicholas West, bishop of
Ely, and Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, eminent
statesmen of the fifteenth century, were born at
Putney. In 1737, this place also gave birth to
Edward Gibbon, whose " Decline and Fall of the
Roman Empire" is well known ; for eight years he
enjoyed a seat in parliament, and retired, in 1783,
to Switzerland ; he died of a .dropsy, in January,
1794.
Roehampton, a pleasant hamlet at the western
extremity of Putney heath, is embellished with many
elegant mansions, among which Roehampton Grove,
the residence of William Gosling, Esq. a modern
structure, by Wyatt, claims particular notice. Roe-
hampton House, of which the saloon was painted
by Sir James Thornhill, is the residence of James
Duncan, Esq. Other villas are the property of the
Earl of Besborotigh, the Marchioness of Downshire,
Charles Hatchett, Esq. and John Thomson, Esq.
The late Lord Ellenborough purchased tlhU of Mr.
Goldsmid.
Rotherhithe, commonly called Redriff, lies on the
banks of the Thames, eastward from Bermondsey.
The
SURREY.
The church, built by subscription, at the beginning
of the last century, consists of a nave, chancel, and
two aisles, supported by pillars of the Ionic order,
and is remarkable chiefly for the monument of LEE
Boo, son of Abba Thule, king of Goo-roo-raa, one
of the Pelew islands. This interesting prince, en-
trusted'by his father to the care of Captain Wilson,
•who, in circumstances of great distress, had expe-
rienced the kindest treatment from him, died at the
house of that officer in December, 1784, aged 20,
a victim to the small-pox. In 1613, a Free School
was founded for eight boys, sons of seamen ; and
in 1743, a Charity School was established, there-
venue of which, united with that of the former, is
sufficient to clothe and educate 40 boys and 25 girls.
In two other schools, 70 boys receive instruction,
besides 80 boys and girls at a School of Industry.
In 1765, a fire at this placo consumed 200 houses,
of which the value was estimated at 100,000/.
In 1700, a dock was made here, which, after pass-
ing through various hands, was purchased in 1807,
by a company of merchant*, and being enlarged,
•was called the Commercial Docks. Nearly adjoin-
ing is also the East Country Dock. In 1805, an
act of Parliament was obtained for making a tunnel
under the Thames, from Rotherhithe Church to
Narrow Wall, Liraehotise, and this work was nearly
completed, when a difference arising among the
directors, it was suspended. Two distinguished
natives of this parish were Admiral John Benbow,
and Sir John Leake, naval commanders at the be-
ginning of the last century.
Streatham was so called from " strete," a road,
and " ham," a dwelling, being situated near the
Roman way from London to Arundel.
Tooting Bee, in this parish, is the property of
the Duke of Bedford, who bears the title of Baron
Rowland, of Streatham. Streatham Park was the
property of Mde. Piozzi, formerly Mrs. Thrale,
and contained portraits of Mr. and Mrs. Thrale,
Lord Sandys, Lord Westcote, Sir Joshua Reynolds,
Dr. Johnson, Burke, Garrick, Murphy, Goldsmith,
Dr. Burney, Sir Robert Chambers, and Baretti,
all painted by Reynolds. The church contains two
white marble tablets 'to the memory of Mr. Thrale
and Mrs. Salusbury, with inscriptions from the pen
of Dr. Johnson. On Lime Common, is a mineral
water, of a cathartic quality, of which large quan-
tities are sent to the hospitals in London.
At Wandsworth, in the seventeenth century, some
French refugees established a manufacture of hats,
which, though declining, still exists. Here are,
besides, manufactories for bolting cloth, for coach
and livery lace ; for calico-printing, pressing stuffs,
and dyeing ; -with iron, oil, and lead mills, vinegar -
* This gentleman was an Alderman of London, and, when
he died, in 1027, at lite zs.e of 79, he devised property to a
great amount as follows:— To the towns of Croydon, Kingston,
Guildford, Docking, and Farnliam, 1000/. each ; to Reigate
and Richmond he gave a like sum, audio Wandsworth, his
VOL. iv. — NO. 16a.
works, and distilleries. In the church, was interred
Henry Smith, Esq.* and several of the noble fimily
of Brodrick. The bridge over the Wandle was
erected in 1602, at the expence of Queen Elizabeth.
On the hills near Wandsworth are several good
mansions, among which is the handsome villa of
Edward Gibson, Esq. of Hackney. Garrett is a
hamlet, in this parish, noted for having been for-
merly the scene of a mock election, at the constitu-
tion of every new parliament. This burlesque was
executed by several notorious characters, of whom
perhaps Sir Jefivry Dunstan was the most distin-
guished, in low life, and furnished Foote with the
subject of his comedy, called the Mayor of Garrelt.
Wimbledon was possessed successively by many
of the leading characters of the age from the reign
of Henry the VIII. to the Restoration ; among whom
were Archbishop Cranmer, Thomas Cranmer,
Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, Queen Catherine
Parr, Cardinal Pole, Sir Christopher Hatton,
Queen Henrietta, and General Lambert. After the
Restoration, it was sold by the Queen-Dowuger,
to whom it had been restored, and, after passing
through various hands, was purchased by the
Duchess of Marlborough, whose descendant, Earl
Spencer, is the present proprietor. Wimbledon
House is finely situated in a park of 1200 acres,
not far from the site of the ancient mansion, of
which Swift said, that it was " much the finest
place about London." In the church, was interred
Sir Richard Wynne, trustee for Queen Henrietta,
and one of the esquires of Prince Charles, in his
romantic pilgrimage to the Spanish court. An altar -
tomb of black marble, over which is suspended a
viscount's coronet, is the monument of Lord Wim-
bledon, who died in 1038. In the church-yard, lies
I'li/lnre Hopkins, the celebrated miser, who dis-
posed of his property, in such a manner, that,
without the interference of the Court of Chancery,
it could not have been enjoyed till the second gene-
ration. On Wimbledon Common, among several
other handsome villas, is one, in which the late
Prince do Cond£ resided before the return of the
Bourbons to France. In another of these villas,
John Home Tooke, Esq. died March 18, 1812. At
the south-west angle of the common, is a circular
encampment, with a double ditch, supposed to be
the field of a battle, fought in 568, between Ceau-
lin, king of the West Saxons, and Ethelbert, king
of Kent.
Coi'THORNE and EFFINT.HAM.] — The hundred of
Copthorneand Eftingham, bounded on the north, by
Kingston and Elmbridge ; on the east, by Walling-
ton ; on the south, by Reigate, and Wotton ; and,
on the west, by Woking ; comprehends the parishes
birth-place, 500/. Resides legacies to various persons, he be-
queathed 10.000/. to buy iinpropriations for,godly preachers ;
and founded a fellowship at Cambridge for his own kindred.
The residue of his estates he left to his executors, to be allotted
to various parishes according to their discretion.
4 Q «f
338
SURREY.
of Aslited, Bansted, Great Bookham, Little Book-
ham, Chessington, Effingham, Epsom, Ewell,
Fetcham, Hedley, Leatherhead, Mickleham, New-
digate, and Walton-on-the-Hill, in all fourteen.
In Ashted Park, is situated the church, and an
elegant mansion, the property of Richard Howard,
Esq. of which the stables are remarkable for their
magnificence.
Bausted Downs are celebrated for the sheep which
are fed upon them, for the healthful-ness of the air,
and the extensive views which they afford ; they j
were even made classical by Dyer, who calls them
Spacious airy downs
With grass and thyme o'erspread, and clover wild,
Where smiling Phoebus tempers every breeze. ,
Great Burrough, a mansion in this parish, the
property of Christopher Buckle, Esq. is supposed
to occupy the site of a Roman fortification.
At Great Bookham, is Easterwick House, once
the residence of the Earls of Etfingham, but now
of James Laureat, Esq. Brookham Grove was
originally a shooting-box, the property of General
Thomas Howard, afterwards of his son, who sold
it to Admiral Brodrick, and lastly of Viscount
Downe. Polesdon was purchased, in 1804, by the
trustees of the Right Honourable R. B. Sheridan.
Nork, in this parish, is tin: seat of Lord Arden.
At Cuddington, a small parish, now known only
by name, was situated the famous palace called, for
its beauty and grandeur, Nonsuch. This regal
mansion, surrounded by a park of 1000 acres, and
embellished with a profusion of statues and other
•works of art, enclosed two courts, one 150 feet
long and 132 feet broad, the other 137 feet long and
116 feet broad, and was two stories high. Nonsuch
•was a favourite residence of Queen Elizabeth, who
there caressed and disgraced her beloved Essex.
It was, afterwards, given to Anne, Queen of James
the First ; Queen Henrietta ; and the notorious
Duchess of Cleveland, successively. At the death
of the last possessor, who had pulled down the
house, and made farms of the parks, the estate de-
scended to her grandson, the duke of Grafton, by
whoso successor it was alienated, in 1731. A
capital mansion, in the Gothic style of architec-
ture, has been erected near the site of the palace
by Samuel Farmer, Esq. the proprietor of the little
Park.
Epsom, a large village on the road from London
to Dorking, -16 miles E. N. E. from the metropolis,
is now better known for its annual races, \vhic!i
are held on the Downs, than, as formerly, for its
mineral waters, which were much resorted to, at the
beginning of the last century. The original spring-
was discovered in 1618, and soon began to attract
visitors from all parts of the island, as well as from
Franco, Germany, and other foreign countries ; it
even rivalled Bath and Tunbridge, till the knavery
of one Leviugstone, an apothecary, who had con-
trived to get possession of the lease, diminished,
and finally ruined its reputation. — Woodcote Park
was the property of the profligate Lord Baltimore,
who was tried at Kingston Assizes, in March, 1768,
for a rape, and narrowly escaped conviction. It is
now the property of the Tessier family, by whom it
was purchased. — Horton Park, which was also the.
property of Lord Baltimore, belongs to J. Trotter,
Esq. Durdans, an elegant modern mansion, is the
residence of Charles Blackman, Esq. The church
contains the remains of Sir Robert, eldest son of the
celebrated lawyer, Sir Edward Coke, and those of
Robert Coke, Esq. grandson of the chief -justice.
Among other monuments, by Flaxman, is one to
the memory of the Rev. John Parkhurst, author of
a Greek and Hebrew Lexicon ; and, in the church-
yard, is this whimsical inscription for another of that
family :
Here lieth the carcass
Of honest Charles Parkhurst
Who ne'er could dance or sing,
But always was true to
His sovereign Lord the King
Charles the First.
Ob. Dec. xx. MDCCIV. aetat. LXXXVI.
There are also at Epsom an aim-house, and a charity
school.
At Ewell, 18 miles N. E. by E. from London, a
small stream, called the Hogs Mill River, has its
source; and, in its way to the Thames, turns seve-
ral corn and powder mills. The church is built of
flints, intermixed with chalk, and contains some
curious monuments. Among the eminent persons
interred here, were Sir Richard Bulkeley, Bart,
and his lady, who both died in 1710 ; Sir Richard
and Lady Glyn, and their son Richard, who died
at St. Domingo in 1795. Richard Corbet, an emi-
nent preacher, and chaplain to James the First, was
born here. He was educated at Christ Church,
Oxford, and died, Bishop of Norwich.
Leatherliead consists of four good streets, situ-
ated on the Mole, and is remarkable for the rich,
view it presents when seen from the hill on the
Guildford road. A large building in the South
Street, was the residence of Lord-Chancellor Jef-
i'eryes. Church-house is of timber frame, at least
as old as the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Gibbon's
Grove is the property of Captain Boulton. A small
public-house, near the bridge, is supposed to be
that which was celebrated for its ale, by Skelton, the
poet-laureat to Henry VII. and VIII. The church
is ancient, and consists of a nave, two aisles, and
two transepts, with a lofty tower. In the chancel
are three arcades. Some distinguished persons
were interred here, among whom were, Admiral
Sir James Wishart, who died in 1723, aged 74 ;
Lieutenant-General Francis Langston, who died in
1714 ; Lieutenant-General Humphrey Gore, Gover-
nor of Kinsale, who died in 1739; and Harriet
Mary Chohnondely, who, in 1806, was killed by
being
SURREY.
3SD
being thrown from a barouche, in which she was
riding with the Princess of Wales and Lady Snef-
fieM. — Randalls is the seat of Sir John Coghill
Bart. ; and Thorncroft, a new and handsome man-
sion, is the residence of Henry Boulton, Esq.
At Mickleham, is Norhury Park, the residence ol
William Lock, Esq. and one of the finest seats in
the county. The principal rooms are painted with
•views in Cumberland and Westmoreland. The
park contains a great number of walnut trees, which
were said to amount to 40,000 about a cenUiry ago,
and sometimes produce fruit to the value of UO.i/.
Among other elegant mansions, in this parish, are
those of L:»dy Talbot and Sir Lnca-, Pepys. It also
contains a great part of Box-hill, from the highest
point of which may be seen the Downs of Sussex
and the metropolis.
At Walton-on-the-Hill are considerable remains
of a Roman statio.ii, the principal of which is a
piece of ground covered with hillocks, in which was
found, in 1772, a brass figure of /Ksculupius. This
site is enclosed with earth-works, and another is
near it, much larger. Half a mile from this place
is a well, lined with flints, supposed to be a Roman
work. Walton church is built with iiint, inter-
mixed with Roman tiles. The font is of lead,
curiously embellished with nine figures, in a sitting
posture.
ELMBRIDGE.] — The hundred of Elmbridge, or
Emley bridge, is bounded, towards the north, by
the Thames; on the east, by Kingston hundred ;
on the south by that of Copthorne and Effingham ;
and, on the west by Woking and Godley. It con-
tains the parishes of Cobbaiu, Esher, East and
West Molesey, Stoke il'Abernon, Walton-upon-
Thames, and Weybridge, and was vested, by
charter of Charles the First, in the corporation of
Kingston.
At Cohham, is Cobham Park, the seat of the
late Harvey Christian Combe, Esq. who purchased
it, in 1807.
Claremont, sadly celebrated as the favourite re-
sidence of a Princess, in whom death deprived the
nation of its fondest, most promising dope, and
domestic life of its brightest ornament, is situated
in the parish of Esher. A mansion-house was first
built here by Sir John Vanbrugh, who sold it to the
Karl of Clare, afterwards Duke of Newcastle.
That nobleman added a magnificent apartment, and
enlarged the grounds by enclosing the adjoining
heath, which he adorned with plantations. He also
erected a castle on a mount in the park, and called
it, after his own name, Claremount. At his death
it was purchased by Lor*l Clare, the conqueror of
India, who, on leaving England, for the last time,
gave directions to Browne, well known for his taste
in laying out pleasure grounds, to build him a mag-
nificent residence, without regarding the expence.
Browne performed the allotted task, in a masterly
manner. The form is oblong, 44 yards by 84 ; the
ground-floor contains eight spacious rooms, beside
the hall of entrance, and the great stair-case. The
principal entrance is, by a flight of thirteen steps,
under a pediment, supported by Corinthian columns.
The site was well chosen, and commands beautiful
views on all sides. It was worthy to be the abode
of royalty, and the scene of connubial happiness.
After the death of Lord Clive, in 1774, it was pur-
chased by Viscount Galway, who disposed of it to
the Earl of Tyrconnel ; and be, again, sold it to
Charles Rose Ellis, Esq. of whom it was purchased
as a fit residence for the presumptive heiress of the
British Empire, and her august consort. Her his-
tory, her beauty, and her virtues live in the recol-
lection of all, and her untimely death is, and ever
will be, deeply regretted. The felicity which the
august pair enjoyed, alas ! so transiently enjoyed,
has been thus pourtrayed, in Mr. Harral's DUCI'U of,
Claremont : —
" Joy'cl not the lovely mistress of the scene,
As, with her lord, she sped the morning walk.
And saw that all was happy in her care ?
Joy'd not that favour'd youth, as on his arm
His soul's delight in wedded rapture hung ?
O, yes ! their full eyes, raised to Heaven, declar'ii
The heart's rich feeling — nature's purest glow i"
* * * * » * * * *
" Again, O, Claremont ! I beheld thy groves,
That, rich in Autumn's foliage, charm' tl thesighr;
And here, beneath the honour'd Oak, u ere seen,
Kath loving and belov'd, the gentle pair.
Her bead reclining on her Leopold's breast,
She seem'd with all earth's happiness replete.
Hope smil'd, and tender expectation beam'd,
From forth her speakingeye. That eye met hit,
And both.expressive shone, in Ui^s supreme."
But soon,
How lonely, drear, and desolate the scene,
Where, brightly smiling, in her kindest mood,
Nature, but now, a paradise had shewn !
Under the tasteful superintendance of tire august
pair, Claremont assumed new beauties. The hall
contains a handsome billiard table. The first room
on the right of the entrance, is a parlour, in which
are many cabinets ; portraits of our lamented prin-
cess and her husband; and her Royal Highness's
tiarp and piano-forte. Adjoining this, is the dining--
room, of which the furniture is plain, and the
chimney-piece addrned with a portrait of his Ma-
jesty. The library contains some busts, among,
which is one of the Princess. Another withdraw-
ing-room is hung with bright yellow, and embel-
lished with some fine portraits. The other rooms
:>n this floor are the bed- room in which her Royal
Highness breathed her last, on the Oth of Noveiu-
)er, 1817; her dressing-room ; that of the Prince ;
and a breakfast-room. A lawn, behind the house,
erminates with a rural cottage, near which is a
)ond stocked with aquatic birds. The view from
he hill, on which stands the building, culled Clare-
nont, is very fine, and extends over a great part of
Surrey. A small Gothic mausoleum, begun by the
Princess,
340
SURREY.
Princess, and finished by her husband, is an inter-
esting object. From tins spot, a path leads through
a grove of evergreens to an extensive lake, in the
middle of which is an island, so thickly covered
with matted foliage, as hardly to admit the rays of
the sun. Near this lake, is a cottage, after a design
of the Princess, and inhabited by one of the objects
of her extensive beneficence.
In the parish of Esher was formerly a manor be-
longing to the bishops of Winchester, one of whom
built a stately house on the bank of the Mole, to
which Wolsey made large additions, and retired
hither after his disgrace. It was afterwards alien-
ated, and often in the hands of the sovereign, till
it was sold in parcels by Lord Sondes, in 1805.
On one of these, a new mansion has been erected
by John Spicer, Esq. On the site of Sandon Farm,
was formerly a priory, which was well endowed by
different persons in the reigns of Henry the Second
and Henry the Third, but having become reduced,
it was united, in 1436, to the hospital of St. Thomas,
South wark.
The manor-house of Stoke d'Abernon has been,
from a period as early as the Conquest, the resi-
dence of the lords of the manor. — On Stoke Com-
mon, is a mineral well, the water of which resembles
that of Cheltenham, ..and is said to cure obstinate
scurvies, being used with caution and perseverance.
At Walton-on-Thames, is a Roman work, called
Cffisar's camp, the single trench of which encloses
an area of nearly fourteen acres, and, before the late
enclosure, communicated with the great camp, at
Oatlands, by a bank and ditch. Caesar is supposed
to have passed the Thames at this place, in pursuit
of Cassibelaunas, who had driven sharp stakes,
shod with iron, into the bed of the river to obstruct
his passage. These piles, called Conway Stakes,
were to to be seen within the memory of a person
resident at Walton, in 1807, who described them
as standing four feet apart, in two rows nine feet
asunder, which ran directly across the river. We
have the authority of Elias Ashmole for stating,
that the channel of the Thames has been changed
here, and that a part of Shepperton, a parish in
Middlesex, is now in Surrey. — Apse - Court was
held of the King in capitc, by the service of distri-
buting bread and ale on All-Saints' Day, for the
souls of all the Kings of England. — William Lilly,
the astrologer, resided in a house at Hersham. —
Burwood Park, formerly the seat of the Lattons,
is an elegant residence, the property of Sir John
Frederick. — Ashley, a mansion with a park of 136
acres, is the property of Sir Henry Fletcher, Bart.
— The beautiful demesne at Pains Hill was formed
by the Hon. Charles Hamilton. Here, the happy
situation and elegant construction of the buildings ;
the flourishing condition and uncommon variety of
trees ; and the contrivance of a spacious piece of
water, much above the level of the river, area fertile
source of admiration, in which the public were
allowed to indulge. Pains Hill is now the residence
of the Earl of Carhampton. The bridge at Walton
was executed about forty years ago, and consists of
four principal arches, with several smaller ones. In
the church is a magnificient. monument, by llou-
billac, to the memory of Richard Viscount Shannon,
who, at his death, in 1740, held the rank of field-
marshal in the army, and commander in chief in
Ireland. In the chancel, the celebrated Lilly, who
died in 1681, was interred. Here are also monu-
ments in honour of Jerome Weston, Earl of Port •
land, who died in 1662; Sir Jacob Edwards,
who died in 1744; several persons of the Rodney
family; and Henry Skrine, Esq. anthor of "An
Account of the Principal Rivers in England," &c.
who died in 1803.
At Wey bridge, a village, so called from a bridge
over the Wey, on which it stands, is a large house,
formerly the residence of a Prince Holstein, who
visited England ; but since occupied as a printing-
office. — Oatlands, an extensive demesne, of which
a considerable part is in Walton parish, is the pro-
perty of the Duke of York, by whom it was pur-
chased from the Duke of Newcastle, with Brook-
lands, and other lands in this parish, Byfleet, and
Walton, comprising together about 3000 acres. It
formerly belonged to Henry the Eighth, and was
occasionally visited by Queen Elizabeth. Charles
the First gave it to Queen Henrietta, after whose
death it was inhabited by the Earl of St. Albans.
On the side of a hill, and near a spacious piece of
water, the late Duke of Newcastle constructed a
grotto, the outside of which is a white stone full of
perforations, and the inside incrusted with shells
and petrifactions. It contains three rooms, in one
of which is a bath supplied by a spring from the
rock, and adorned with a copy of the Venus de
Medici. The mansion having been burned in 1793,
whilst the Duke of York was in Flanders, a new
house was erected, of which Holland was the
architect. — Him is an old and ruinous mansion,
which formerly belonged to the Howards, and was
given by James II. to the Countess of Dorchester,
from whom it has descended to the present Earl of
Portmore. Many cedars and firs surround the
house. One of the parlours contains portraits of
the Countess, and her husband, the Earl of Port-
more, the Duchess of Dorset, the Duchess of
Leeds, and Nell Gwynne. The church of Wey-
bridge, which is small but neat, contains the vault
of the Collyear and Chares family, Earls of Port-
more ; and, in the chancel, was interred Sir Thomas
Hopson, a naval hero of the last century.
FARNHAM.] — The hundred of Farnham, bounded,
towards the north, by Hampshire and Woking hun-
dred ; on the east, by Godalming ; and on the west,
by Hampshire ; is the smallest in the county, con-
taining only the parish of Farnham, with its ham-
lets, Elsted, Sele, and Frensham, and their appen-
dages.
Farnham, situated on the north bank of the Wey,
9f miles W. by S. from Guildford, and 38 S, W. by
W. from
SURREY.
341
W. from London, consists of one principal street,
nnd was formerly remarkable for its cloth manu-
factures, which, on the introduction of hops, rapidly
declined, and are now almost discontinued. Nearly
one thousand acres are occupied in the culture of
that useful bitter, for which Farnham has become
famous. Farnham hops are preferred for the pale-
ness of colour, and delicate flavour which they
give to malt liquor ; and, on this account, they
are commonly sold at a price, one-third greater
than that paid for the hops of any other district.
Lands of an average quality produce 6j cwt. per
acre. Farnham, which deputed members to parlia-
ment in the reign of Edward II., was probably one
of those places which relinquished the priviledge,
as a burthen. The manor belongs to the see of
Winchester, to which it was granted by Ethelwald,
and is governed by twelve burgesses, from whom
two bailiff's are annually chosen. The castle, situ-
ated on a hill, was built by Henry de Blois, bro-
ther of King Stephen, and Bishop of Winchester,
and was twice destroyed in the civil wars of this
kingdom. After the Restoration, it was rebuilt,
by Bishop Morley, in a style neither handsome, nor
convenient ; however, it contains a fine library, and
some good paintings. There are some remains of the
ancient keep, surrounded by a strong wall, and a
dry ditch, now planted with ouks. Adjoining the
park, is Jay's tower, on the summit of which is a
kitchen and fruit-garden containing- 1 rood 8 perches,
and about four feet depth of soil. The church is a
spacious edifice, erected about three centuries ago,
and consists of a nave, chancel, and two aisles. The
windows are adorned with tracery, and the interior
of the building is embellished with several handsome
monuments, and a good painting of the twelve
apostles. The town has a free-school, and a good
charity-school. Nicholas de Farnham, physician
to Henry III. was a native of this place. He was
made Bishop of Chester and afterwards of Durham,
but spent the last four years of his life in retirement,
and died in 1257. — Moor Park was the seat of Sir
William Temple, who died here, and directed his
heart to be inclosed in a silver box, and buried under
the sun-dial in his garden. Near this mansion is a
cavern, known by the name of Mother Ludlam's
Hole, through which flows a fine stream of clear
water ; the greatest height is twelve feet, aud its
breadth twenty ; its precise depth is unknown, but
it is supposed to be very considerable. — The remains
of VVaverley Abbey, consisting of the refectory,
dormitory, and cloisters, extend, in detached por-
tions, over an area of three or four acres, and are
overgrown with venerable ivy. An aisle of the
church, with part of the tower, proves that it must
have been a magnificent structure. This abbey was
founded in 1128, by William Gifford, Bishop of
Winchester, and was inhabited, at the close of that
century, by 200 monks. At the Dissolution, the
abbey was granted to Sir William Fitzwilliam,
VOL. IV.— NO. 165.
afterwards Earl of Southampton, and it is now the
property of Sir Charles Rich, Bart. A modern
mansion has been erected near the ruins of this
religious foundation, and bears its name.
At Frensharo, in the vestry of the church, is a
large copper cauldron, of which the vulgar relate
many ridiculous tales ; but of which Salmon observes,
that it was used for the entertainment of the parish
at the wedding of poor maids. On a large heath,
half a mile from the church, is an extensive pond,
much frequented in the winter season by wild
fowl.
GODALMING.] — The hundred of Godalming,
bounded, towards the north, by Woking ; on the
east, by Blackheath ; on the west, by Farnham ;
and, on the south, by the county of Sussex; con-
tains the. parishes of Chidinfold, Compton, Erting-
ilon, Godalming, Hamildun, Haslemere, Peper-
harrow, Puttenham, Thurslay, and Witley. In the
2d of Henry II. this hundred was exchanged by that
monarch, with the Bishop of Salisbury for the cas-
tles of Devizes and Rudes in Wiltshire. It is now
the property of James More Molyncux, Esq.
The incorporated market-town of Godalming,
four miles S. S. W. from Guildford, and 31 S. W.
from London, is situated near the Wey, on a con-
siderable tract of meadow land, called in Saxon
an Ing. It is supposed from that circumstance, and
its having been the property of a Saxon named God-
helm, to have derived its name, Godhelm's Ing, or
Godalming. The town consists of one principal
street, situated on the London road to Portsmouth,
and several smaller ones. A manufacture of cloths
formerly flourished here ; at present, the principal
trade of the town arises from the manufacture of
silk and worsted for stockings. In the neighbour-
hood, also, are three paper-mills. In 1768, the
navigation of the Wey was extended from Guildford
to Godalming, by new cuts, to the great benefit of
the latter place, and the adjacent county, whence
timber, bark, flour, paper, and wrought iron, art
sent to London in large quantities. By a charter
of Elizabeth, dated 1575, the inhabitants were in-
corporated by the title of the warden, bailiff, and
eight assistants ; the warden being annually chosen
out of the eight assistants. The church consists of
a nave, two aisles, and a chancel, separated by a
transept, in the centre of which, upon four strong
pillars, is erected the steeple, with an ordinary
spire of timber overed with lead. The roof within
is divided into small panels, which are filled with
coats of arms and other devices of nobility. This
edifice contains many monuments of the Eliots, of
Busbridge, and of the Wyatts, of Shakleford. A
white marble tablet bears an inscription to the me-
mory of the Rev. Owen Manning, B. D. Canon of
Lincoln, Rector of Pepperharrow, Vicar of Godal-
ming, and Historian of the county of Surrey ; he was
also fellow of the Royal and Antiquarian Societies,
and died in 1801, in his eighty-first year. At a short
4 B di»-
842
SURREY.
distance from the town, OH the road to Guildford, is
an alms -house, with a small chapel and walled gar-
den, and this inscription : —
" This Ospvtall was given by Mr. BICHARD WYATT,
of London, Esq. for tenn poore men, wih sufficient lands
to it for ycir Maviitciuiiice for ever."
" 1621."
On the inner wall of the chapel, is a brass plate,
with the kneeling figures of a man and woman, and
an inscription commemorative of the founder, who
died in 1619. Among his other charities, Henry
Smith gave 1000/. to the parish of Godalming,
with wuieh a farm was purchased at Unsted. In
1726, an imposture was practised here, by a poor
woman, natried Toft, who pretended to be delivered
of live rabbits, and, in this deception, she was un-
wittingly assisted by many respectable persons, some
of whom published pamphlets descriptive of the
phcenomenon. — At Eastring, a hamlet in this parish,
is an elegant and commodious mansion, the pro-
perty of William Gill, Esq. — Bushbridge Park
was the property of William Carteret Webb, Esq. a
distinguished lawyer and antiquary, who died in
1770. The. mansion now belongs to Henry Hare
Townsend, Esq. and contains many excellent pic-
tures ; among which are a Madona, by Raifaelo ;
several by Teniers, Yandyck, Rembrandt, and Van-
dervelt ; and some capital pieces by Fuseli, Westall,
Dance, Thompson, &c.
Haslemere, a small borough and market-town,
situated at the south-western extremity of the coun-
ty, sends two members to parliament, who are elected
by the freeholders within the borough and manor.
The church is small, consisting only of a nave and
north aisle, separated by a range of seur.i -circular
arches. The ^east- window contains a quantity of
stained glass, which represents the nativity, the four
evangelists, the resurrection, the ark, Adfctn and
Eve, and Saint Paul's vision. An alms-house on a
common, near the town,, is- occupied by a few poor
persons, who, since the decline of the tolls of the
corn-market and fairs, receive no allowance.
Pepperharrow, a noble mansion situated in the
parish of that name, is the residence of Viscount
Atiddleton, by whom it was completed. TUis edi-
fice, which stands in a beautiful park, watered by
the Wey, contains many spacious and handsome
apartments, which are embellished by some capital
pictures. Among these are the portraits of the
Emperor Charles V. by Titian, of Bishop Burnet,
Buchanan, the first Lord Middleton, Sir Thomas
Brodrick, and the late Admiral Brodrick.
At Puttenham, is a handsome mansion, called
Puttenham Priory, the residence of the late Admiral
Cornish, who served in the expedition against Ma-
nilla, in 1762, and commanded the Arrogant in
Lord Rodney's victory of the 12th of April, 1782.
ANI>CHERTSBY.] — The hundred of God-
ley, commonly called Chertsey, is bounded, on the
north, by the Thames and Berkshire ; on the east,
by the hundred of Emley Bridge and that of
Woking ; and, on the south and west, by Woking
hundred. This hundred was granted, by charter of
Richard the First, with all its jurisdictions and
privileges, and with exemptions from the authority
of the sheriff, or other officer of the crown, to the
Abbot of Chertsey ; and, agreeably with the inten-
tion of this grant, the sheriff has no authority within
this hunrlred, but directs his writs to the bailiff, who
is appointed for life, by letters patent from the Ex-
chequer.
Chertsey, of which the Saxon name was Ceor-
teseye, 13 miles N.N. E. from Guildford, and 20
W. S. W. from London, is supposed to have been
insular in the time of Venerable Bede, who called it
Ceroti Insula. An abbey of Benedictine monks was
founded here, in 666, of which the superior was a
sort of little prince, whose lands and parcels of
lands, it were an endless task to enumerate. The
body of Henry the Sixth was first irtterred in the
church of this establishment, and afterwards re-
moved to Windsor, by Henry the Seventh. Of this
extensive edifice, no remains exist but a few frag-
ments of the materials. The church was rebuilt, in
1804, and some of the ancient painted glass was
replaced in the east window. The house inhabited
by Cowley at this place is preserved, and is now the
property of Richard Clarke, Esq. A charity-school
was founded here, in 1725, forthe education of twenty-
five boys, and as many girls ; there are, besides, five
alms-houses. A noble bridge, of Purbeck stone,
consisting of seven arches, was erected at this place,
in 1785. Chertsey has also a handsome modern
built market-house. The summit of St. Anne's
Hill, a mile distant from Chertsey, affords, on one
side, a view of Cooper's Hill, Norwood, Sydenham,
and Shooter's Hill in Kent, with Harrow, Highgate,
ami Hampstead, on the other, forming together the
outline of an immense plain, in which the dome of
St. Paul's, and the lofty towers of >Vestininsterabbey,
mark the proud position of the metropolis of Eng-
land. On one side of this hill is the seat of the late
Charles James Fox, now the residence of his widow ;
and, on another, is Monk's Grove, the property of
Lord Montford. On an adjacent eminence, is Lyne
Grove, the residence of Ross, Esq. ; and, at the
distance of a mile, is Botleys, the seat of Sir Joseph
Mawbey, Bart, situated in a well-wooded park.
Woburn Farm, a mile southward from Chertsey,
was planned by Philip Southcote, Esq. and is now
the residence of Sir John St. Aubyn. Ottershaw, a
noble mansion of stone, not far from Woburn Farm,
is the seat of James Bine, Esq.
Egham is a large and flourishing village, situated
on the banks of the Thames, in the neighbourhood
of a scene, dear to every patriotic bosom, the cele-
brated Runnymead, where King John reluctantly
signed the great charter of English liberty. The
church,
SURREY.
343
church, which is of stone, conlaitis the tomb of Sir
John Denham, father of the poet ; and, among other
monuments, one in memory of John de Rutherwick,
Abbot of Chertsey. In 1706, a range of alms-houses
were founded here, for six poor men, and as many
women, who must have been parishioners of Egham
for twenty years, without receiving parochial relief;
and, at the time of their admission, must be sixty
years of age. Part of this foundation is a school,
for the education of twenty poor boys of Egham.
Cooper's Hill, made classical by Denham, is situated
to the west of Eghaui. On this hill, is Kingswood
Lodge, the seat of Flounder, Esq.
A mansion-house, at Perford, was the residence
of Sir Francis Wolley, who entertained here, for
many years, his friend and kinsman, the celebrated
Dr. John Donne. It afterwards became the pro-
perty of Lord Onslow, who razed the house, and
turned the park, which had been well stocked with
deer, into farms.
KINGSTON.] — The hundred of Kingston, bounded,
on the north, by the Thames ; on the east, by Brix-
ten, and Wellington ; on the south, by Copthorne
and Effingham ; and, on the west, by the river
Thames, and the hundred of Elmbridge; contains
six parishes, Kew, Kingston, Long Ditton, Maldon,
^Petersham, and Richmond.
Kew House, situated near the Thames, belonged,
in the seventeenth century, to Richard Bennett, Esq.
In 1730, Frederick, Prince of Wales, admiring the
situation, obtained a lease of the house, which was
afterwards the favourite retreat of his present Ma-
jesty. In 1802, the old mansion was taken down,
and a new edifice begun in Richmond Gardens, from
the designs of James Wyatt, Esq. The pleasure-
grounds, among other picturesque objects, areembel-
hshed with a pagoda, 163 feet high. The botanic
garden was established in 1760, and is now perhaps
unequalled. Her Majesty, the late Queen Char-
lotte, died here, on the 17th of November, 1818.
Kingston on the Thames, 17| miles N. E. from
Guildford, and 12f S. W. from London, is sup-
posed by Gale and Horsley, to have been a con-
siderable station of the Romans ; an idea of which
the probability is countenanced by the numerous
remains of that enterprizing people, discovered here
at various periods, such as, the fouiidhtiotis of houses,
urns, coins, and domestic and other utensils. By
the Faxons, it was called Moreforcl, which signifies
Great Ford; and this name it obtained' from its
situation on a level, where it was exposed to inun-
dations from the neighbouring river. In 833, a
council was held at this place by Egbert, at which
tvere present the king, and many of the nobility and
clergy ; and here, ancient chronicles relate, many
of the Saxon monarchs were crowned. At all periods
of our history, it is described as remarkable for its
loyalty, particularly during the contest of Charles
the First, with his parliament, when the last struggle
in behalf of the unfortunate prince was made here.
Kingston was first incorporated by King John,
whose charter was confirmed and extended by suc-
ceeding monarchs. The corporation consists of a
bailiff, a high-steward, a recorder, a town-clerk, &c.
who send no representative to parliament, having at
an early period petitioned the king to be exempted
from that burthen. The town is beautified with a
spacious market-place, at one end of which stands
the town-hall. In this building the markets are
held, and the judges sit at the Lent Assizes. The
front is adorned with a statue of Queen Anne, and
the hall with a portrait of that princess. The
bridge, an ordinary structure of timber, is the oldest
on the river, except London Bridge, and is stated
to be 168 yards in length. — Near the road, at the
entrance of Kingston from London, stands Norbeton
Hall, the residence of General Johnston ; and, on
the other side of the road, Norbeton Place, lately
the residence of Mrs. C. N. Palmer. An alms-house
was founded at this place, in 1688, by William
Cleave, for six poor men, and six women, the en-
dowment of which amounts to 234/. 10s. per annum.
In 33 Edward the First, a chapel was founded
here for a number of chaplains, to perform divine
service; and William Walworth, the famous lord
mayor of London, made ample provision for it»
support. It was afterwards given to the bailiffs of
Kingston, for the purpose of founding a free gram-
mar-school, which is, however, no longer attended.
The church, which was originally built in the form
of a cross, has undergone a total change, by repeated
alterations or repairs, and now consists of a nave
and chancel, 145 long, and a transept, 07f feet
long ; and contains a handsome organ. The tower,
which rises from the centre, was formerly surmount-
ed by a spire, covered with lead, which having been
much damaged by lightning, in 1444, and, in 1703,
by a storm of wind, was taken down. In the chancel
is a piscina, with a rich Gothic canopy. On the
south side of this chancel was formerly an ancient
chapel, iti which were preserved portraits of many
of the Saxon kings, who had been crowned here.
These interesting relics of antiquity were destroyed
by the fall of the chapel, in 1730. Au ancient
monument bears the effigies, in brass, of Robert
Skerne and his wife, who are pourlrnyed in long-
gowns, nnd girdles, studded with roses. On, the
side of Comb Hill is a conduit, the work of Cardinal
Wolsey, by which the palace of Hampton Court is
supplied with water.
At Thames Ditton, is a mansion of brick, stuc-
coed, called Ember Court, long the residence of the
Right Hon. Arthur Onslow, Speaker of the House
of Commons, and recently inhabited by Colonel
Taylor.
In the parish of Petersham, is Ham House, which
was first erected by Sir Thomas Vavajor ; and, in
1651, came into the possession of Sir Lionel Tol-
Icmaclie, in whose descendant, the Earl of Dysart,
it is still vested. Here the Cabal held their meetings,
after the marriage of the Earl of Lauderdale with
Lady Dysart, in 1671. The ceilings are painted by
Verrio,
311
SURREY.
Verrio, and the apartments furnished in the massive
etyle of ancient magnificence. There are, besides,
some fine pictures of the old masters, and portraits
of the Duke and Duchess of Liauderdale ; the Earl
of Hamilton ; Charles the Second ; Sir John Mait-
land ; Sir Henry Vane ; William Murray, first Earl
of Dysart, and Catherine, his wife ; Sir Lionel Tol-
Jemache ; James Stuart, Duke of Richmond, by
Vandyke; the late Countess of Dysart, by Sir
Joshua Reynolds ; and many others. This house
Was the birth-place of John and Archibald, both
Dukes of Argyle, and grandsons of the Duchess of
Lauderdale. — Petersham Lodge, now the property
of Sir William Manners, Bart., was, in 1721, con-
sumed by fire, with the furniture, an excellent col-
lection of pictures, and a valuable library.
Richmond, nine miles W.S.W.ftom London, was
anciently called Shene, either from its conspicuous
situation, or from its " resplendent" beauty. It was
given by Henry the First, to the family of Belet, to
be held by the serjeanty of cup-bearer to the king.
Since the reign of Edward the First, it has been
the property of our kings, and the place of their
occasional retirement ; although no royal palace was
founded here, till the reign of Henry the Fifth.
Henry the Seventh frequently retired hither, and, in
1498, the palace was consumed by fire, with all the
apparel, plate, and jewels, which it contained. After
it was rebuilt, the king changed its name from Shene
to that of Richmond, his own title before his acces-
sion. Many of the most interesting events which
varied the even tenour of this monarch's domestic
life occurred here, as did his death, in 1509. In
1541, the palace and manor were granted to Anne
of Cleves, the divorced queen of Henry the Eighth.
Here Queen Elizabeth breathed her last, in 1603 ;
and, in the same year, the courts of justice were
removed hither, from London, on account of the
plague. This manor was a part of the jointure of
Queen Henrietta, who resided here, after the Resto-
ration. Finally, in 1770, it was granted, with the
exception of the old palace of Richmond, and Rich-
mond Park, to her late Majesty Queen Charlotte,
for life. In 1500, Philip the First, of Spain, and in
1523, his great successor, Charles the Fifth, were en-
tertained here with much magnificence. The ancient
palace must have been a place of extreme grandeur ;
for, in a minute description given of it, in 1619,
mention is made of a hall, one hundred feet long,
and forty wide, and of two galleries, each two hun-
dred feet in length. Some of the remains of the
offices still exist ; but the site of the palace is occu-
pied by private dwelling houses, among which are
the residence of Whitshed Keene, Esq., Mrs. Way,
the late Duke of Queensbury, Major Smith, William
Robertson, Matthew Skinner, and D. Dundas,Esqrs.
The original park, which was situated on the north-
west-side of the present village, having been en-
larged, was distinguished by the name of the Great
Park, from the additions, which were called the little
park. The former was inhabited by Wolsey, after he
had presented the king with his new palace of Hamp-
ton Court. Caroline, Queen of George the First,
frequently retired to the Lodge, and ornamented
the gardens with several pleasant buildings, one of
which, called the Hermitage, contained busts of
Newton, Locke, and other literary characters. An
observatory was erected in 1708, with a mural arch
of 140°, and eight feet radius; a zenith rector of
eight feet ; a transit instrument of eight feet, and
a ten feet reflector, by Herschel. About 1800, the
king began a new edifice, the lodge having been
taken down more than forty years ago. A part of
the old park is now a dairy-farm, late in his Ma-
jesty's own hands ; the remainder constitutes the
royal garden. Here, instead of the trim formality
of the ancient style, we now see irregular groups of
trees adorning beautiful swelling lawns, interspersed
with shrubberies, broken clumps, andsolemn woods;
through the recesses of which are walks, leading
to various parts of these delightful gardens. The
banks along the margin of the Thames are judici-
ously varied, forming a noble terrace, which extends
the whole length of the gardens ; in the south-east
quarter of which a road leads to a sequestered spot,
in which is a cottage, exhibiting the most elegant
simplicity. Here is a collection of curious foreign
and domestic beasts, as well as of rare and exotic
birds. Being a favourable retreat of her late Ma-
jesty, this cottage was kept in great neatness. The
fardens are open to the public every Sunday, from
lidsummer till toward the end of autumn.
The Great Park, consisting of 2253 acres, sur-
rounded by a brick wall, eight miles in length, was
inclosed by Charles the First, from wastes in the
manors of Petersham, Ham, Mortlake, Putney, and
Richmond. Besides the Great Lodge, there are,
the New Lodge, near Roehampton Gate ; the
Thatched Lodge, near Kingston Gate ; Hill Lodge,
near Richmond Gate, in the occupation of the
Countess of Pembroke ; and Stone Lodge, which
was presented by his Majesty, in 1802, to Viscount
Sidmouth, for life. In 1414, a religious house was
founded at this place, by Henry the Fifth, for monks
of the Carthusian order. This edifice was more than
three thousand feet long, and half as broad, and the
greatness of its endowment equalled its splendour.
The monks were exempted from every burthen and
service incident to asubjectof the realm, both personal
and pecuniary; and, at the surrender of their estates
to the crown, in 1539, their annual revenues amount-
ed to 962/. 11s. Qd. About 1499, Henry the Seventh
built a convent for Observant friars, which was sup-
pressed, with others of the same order, thirty-five
years afterwards. — The church of Richmond consists
of a nave, two aisles, and a chancel, built of brick,
with a low embattled tower of white stone, mixed
with flint, and contains, among other monuments,
those of Henry Viscount Brouncker, cofferer to
Charles the Second ; Mary Anne Yates, the cele-
brated actress ; Admiral Holbourne ; and that of
Thomson, whose works were his only monument,
till
STOREY.
34-5
till the year 1792, when the Earl of Buchan marked
tlie spot of his interment with a brass tablet, and
the following
INSCRIPTION :
" In the earth below this tablet are the remains of
James Thomson, author of the beautiful poems en-
tilled, ' Tht Seasons,' ' The Castle of indolence,' &c.
who died at Richmond on the 22d of August, and was
buried there on the 29th O. S. 1748. The Ear! of
Bnrhan, unwilling that so good a man and sweet a poet
should be without a memorial, has denoted the place
of his interment for the satisfaction of his admirers, in
-the year of our Lord 1792."
Rossdale House, the residence of Thomson, in
Kew-foot Lane, was recently the property of the
Hon. Cropley Ashley Cooper, brother of the Earl
of Shaitesbury. When in the possession of the :
Falmouth family, this house was enlarged, and re- j
paired, at a vast expence. The seat, and the table
on which Thomson wrote, in the garden, are still
preserved. Over the entrance is the following'
verse : —
" Here Thomson sung the Seasons and their Change."
In the interior are many quotations from authors
who have paid due compliments to his talents ; and
iu the centre appears the following
INSCRIPTION:
" Within this pleasing retirement, allured by the
music of the nightingale, which warbled in soft
unison to the melody of his soul, in unaffected cheer-
fulness, and genial though simple elegance, lived
James Thomson. Sensibly alive to all the beauties
of Nature, he painted their images as they rose in
review, and poured the whole profusion of them
into his inimitable Seasons. Warmed with intense
devotion to the Sovereign of the universe, its flame
glowing through all his compositions ; animated with
unbounded benevolence, with the tenderest social
sensibility, he never gave one moment's pain to ajiy
of his fellow-creatures, save only by his death, which
happened at this place, on the 22d of August, ] 748."
In the church-yard, repose the remains of Jaques
Mallet du Pan, author of the " Mercnrc Britan-
nique;" those of Gilbert Wakefield, and Dr. John
Moore, the former of whom was eminent for classical
attainments, the latter for his observations on society
and manners. In 1719, Penkethman, and, in 1756,
Gibber, opened a theatre at Richmond. The pre-
sent theatre was erected a few years since, and is
open only in the summer season, three or four times
iu the week. A -stone bridge was constructed here,
in 1777, at an expence of 26,000/.
The beauties of Richmond Hill, so often cele-
brated, are thus admirably described by Thomson: —
Say, shall we ascend
Thy hill, delightful Sheen ? Here let us sweep
The boundless landscape : now the raptured eve,
Exulting swift, to huge Augusta send ;
Now to the sister-hills that skirt her plain,
To lofty Harrow now, and now to where
Majestic Windsor lifts his princely brow,
VOL. IV. — NO. 166.
In lovely contrast to this glorious view,
Calmly magnificent ; then will we turn
To where the silverThames first rural grows.
There let the feasted eye unwearied stray :
Luxurious, there, rove through the pendent wood?,.
That nodding hang o'er Harrington's retreat ;
And stooping thence to Ham's embowering walks,
Here let us trace the matchless vale of Thames;
Far winding up to where the muses haunt
To Twit'nam bow'rs : to royal Hampton's pile,
To Claremont's terrass'cl height, and Esher's groves,
Enchanting vale ! beyond whate'er the muse
Has of Achaia or Hesperia sung !
O vale of bliss! O softly-swelling hills!
On which the power of cultivation lies,
And joys to see the wonder of his toil.
Heavens ! what a goodly prospect spreads around,
Of hills, and dales, and woods, and lawns, and spires.
And glitt'ring towers, and gilded streams, till all
The stretching landscape into smoke decays.
The town of Richmond runs up the hill, above
a mile, from East Sheen to the New Park, with the
Royal Gardens sloping all the way to the Thames.
Here are four alms-houses ; one of them built by
Bishop Duppa, in the reign of Charles the Second,
for ten poor widows, pursuant to a vow he made
during that prince's exile. — The mansions most
worthy of notice are, that of the late Duke of
Queensbury, adorned with a fine collection of pic-
tures ; the residence of Earl Fitz-William, where
that nobleman's maternal grand-father, Sir Matthew*
Decker, Bart, an opulent Dutch merchant, enter-
tained his Majesty, George the Second, on the day
of his proclamation ; the residence of Diana Beau-
clerk ; a villa of the late Duke of Buccleugh ;
Spring Grove, built by the Marquis of Lothian ;,
and the villas of the Marquis Townshend, the Earls
of Leicester and Cardigan, Lady Morshead, Bliss
Darell, &c. Sir Robert Dudley, styled abroad,
Earl of Warwick, and Duke of "Northumberland';-
but, in reality, the natural son of the Earl of Lei-
cester, and Lady Douglas Sheffield, was born at.
Slueen, in 1573. Though his father denied his legi-
timacy, he left him the bulk of his estate. He made
a successful cruize against the Spaniards of South
America ; and, in an expedition against Cadiz, he
received the honour of knighthood. Having failed
in an attempt to prove the legitimacy of his birth,
he attached himself to the house of Medici, to which
he rendered great services, and was rewarded in an
ample manner. He was learned himself, ;md a
patron of learned men : his principal work " Del
Are.ano del Mare," in two volumes folio, displays
extensive knowledge and great powers of invention.
He died at Florence, in 1649.
REI'GATE.] — The hundred of Reigate, bounded,
on the north, by Wallington hundred, and that of
Copthorne and Effingham ; on the east, by Tan*
dridge ; on the south, by the county of Sussex, and,
on the west, by Wootton hundred ; contains the
parishes of Beechworth, Buckland, Burstow, Charl-
wood, Chipsted, Gatton, Horley, Leigh, Merstham,
Kingswood Liberty, Newdigate, Nutfield, and Rei-
gate, in all thirteen.
4s At
346
SURREY.
At East Beeehworth, is the seat of the late Hon. !
William Henry Bouverie, built in the reign of James
the First, by Sir Ralph Freeman, of whom, and of (
several members of his family, it contains portraits, !
with many casts from ancient statues. Wonham, a j
manor in tins parish, is the seat of Viscount Tera-
pletown.
On a common, in the parish of Burstow, is part
of a mansion, formerly the property of the family of
De Burstow, and supposed to have been built by
Edward Byshe, a bencher of Lincoln's Inn. Here
was born Edward Byshe, son of the above, Garter
and Clarencieux Kipg at Arms, during the Inter-
regnum.*
Gntton, situated under the chalk-hills, 22 miles
E. N. E. from Guildford, though a borough, con-
sists of only a lew houses, but. is of great antiquity, j
and was garrisoned by the Romans. The voters
are not more than- eight in number, but return two
members to parliament, a privilege which the place
has enjoyed since the reign of Henry the Sixth.
The present lord of the manor is Sir Mark Wood,
Bart, who is also the owner of the two mansions of
Upper and Lower Gatton. The former, situated on
a hill, and surrounded by a park of 150 acres, is in
the occupation of Sir Henry Ilarpur Carew, Bart. ;
the latter is the beautiful residence of Sir Mark
Wood, and is situateu in the middle of an extensive
park, which also includes the parish church, and a
part of the glebe, which a former possessor con-
verted into a piece of water of 30 acres.
The parish of Merstham contains some valuable
quarries of stone, which were in former ages deemed |
of such importance as to be held by the crown, j
Their best quality is the capability of resisting fire, j
after they have lain in the air for some months, j
The chalk of these hills also is burned, and becomes j
excellent lime. In the church of Merstham is a
curious font, made from a single block of S6ssex ;
marble, and of sufficient capacity to permit the total ;
immersion of an infant. — Merstham Place is the i
property and residence of Hylton JollitFe, Esq. the j
present representative of Petersfield, in parliament. ,
Merstham has been long celebrated for its produc- j
tive apple orchards, of which one, containing two ;
acres, has been known to yield 800 bushels in one
year.
In the parish of Newdigate is a mansion called
Ewood, near which is a sheet of water, in area more
than sixty acres. This estate, formerly part of the
possessions of the Earls of Warren, Surrey, and
Arundel, was purchased a few years since by the
Duke of Norfolk, who, since the year 1807, has
erected a new mansion, in a fine situation, as an
occasional residence.
In Nutfield parish are three pits, from which are
annually dug from two to three thousand tons of
fullers' earth, of a quality superior to all other in
the island. Fifty years since, an earthen pot was
discovered here, 'containing a quantity of Roman
brass coins, of the Lower Empire. In the church
is an altar-tomb, very ancient, at one end of which
is a star, and on the tablet is the following inscrip-
tion, in Norman-French :
" SIRE THOMAS DE UOLDHAM : GIST : ICY ; DEO : DE :
SA : ALME ; EYT '. MERCI."
Reigate, 19 miles E. from Guildford, and 21 miles
S. by W. from London, is situated on a hill of white
sand, which, for colour, is unequalled by any in the
kingdom. It has returned two representatives to
parliament since the 23 Edward 1. The nominal
constituents are the freeholders of messuages, or
burgage tenements, within the precincts of the
borough ; these however, are all notoriously under
the influence of the families of Somers and Hard-
wicke. Reigate gives the title of baron to the Earl
of Peterborough. The period when the castle of
Reigate was founded is unknown ; it is certain that
it wai one of the chief seats of the Earls of Warren
and Surrey, and it is supposed that its final demo-
lition was occasioned by the jealousy of the Parlia-
ment in 1648. In the centre of the site of this
structure, is the entrance of a subterraneous apart-
ment, 123 feet long, 13 wide, and 11 in height,
which was probably once a repository for military
stores, and a place of safe custody for prisoners.
The Priory, so called because it occupies the site
of a religious foundation, belongs to Lord Somers.
The church, built of limestone, consists of a nave,
chancel, two aisles, and an embattled tower ; its
whole length being 125 feet, and its greatest breadth
54{. This edifice contains several monuments of
interest; and, beneath the chancel, is a vault, made by
Lord Howard of Eflingham, in which were interred
many of the descendants of that successful com-
mander. The market-house was erected in 1708,
on the site of a chapel dedicated to St. Thomas of
Canterbury. The park, of 150 acres, contains a
terrace, upwards of half a mile in length : the tim-
ber was cut down about 1635, by Lord Monson,
the then proprietor.
SOUTHWARK.] — The borough of Southwark, though
the capital of Surrey, is only a suburb, or appendage
to the great metropolis of Britain.* Its name,
evidently of Saxon origin, appears to have been
derived from some military " work," or fortification,
" south" of London. — That part of Southwark which
is not comprehended in the Borough liberty, is called
the Clink, and is in the jurisdiction of the Bishop
of Winchester, who appoints a steward and bailiff,
* This gentleman was returned to Parliament in 1640, for ' rantable grants of arms, so that Dugdale, then Norroy, joined
Blechingley, and again for the same place in 1661, when he is ; wilh others in a petition against him. lie published a transla-
said to have been a pensioner, at 100/. per session. After the : tion from the Greek into Latin, of Palladium " de gentibus
Restoration, he was allowed to retain his office of Clarencieux,
but being much involved in debt, he prostituted it by unwar-
Indice (tBranchman ibus," and died in 1679.
f Fide Vol. III. pages 514, 518.
under
SURREY.
347
under whom this division of (he borough is governed.
— This borough has sent members to Parliament
ever since 23 Edward I. The right of election is in
the inhabitants paying scot and lot, amounting to
about 3200. During the last twenty or thirty years,
the honour of representing tire borough of South-
wark has been very warmly contested. — The borough
of Southwark, properly so called, embraces only
the parishes of St. Olave, St. Saviour, St. John,
St. Thomas, and St. George. The closely connected
parishes of Bermondsey, Rotherhithe, Newington,
Christ Church, and Lambeth, will be found de-
scribed in Brixton Hundred, in which Southwark
is situated.
St. Olave's church, in Tooley Street, near the
south end of London bridge, is mentioned in T281 ;
i»ut the datft of its erection is unknown. The pre-
sent structure, finished in 1739, consists of a plain
body, strengthened with rustic quoins at the corners,
and lighted by three ranges of windows. On the
north side of Tooley Street, is the Bridge-house,
a foundation apparently coeval with London Bridge,
having been used as a store-house for stone, timber,
and other materials employed in its repairs. At the
Bridge- house was also the public granary for corn
in times of scarcity, as well as the city brewhouse,
and city bakehouse. — Below the Bridge-house, on
the banks of the Thames, stood the inn of the Abbot
of Battle, 'rtie spot still called Battle-bridge was
thus named from a bridge over a water-course flow-
ing out of the Thames, buiit and repaired by this
prelate, on whose ground it was situated. In the
front of this mansion were the gardens belonging
to it, the recollection of whose embellishments is
yet perpetuated by the Maze, and the Maze-pond.
fiy a charter of Elizabeth, a Free Grammar School
was founded in this parish. The concerns of this
institution are under the management of sixteen
trustees, or governors, incorporated for the purpose:
and the scholars, of whom there are 250 on the foun-
dation, receive such an education as may fit them
for the learned professions. The parish has also a
charity-school for 40 girls.
Eastward of St. Olave's is the parish of St. John,
Horsleydown, corrupted from Horse-down, origi-
nally a grazing ground for horses. St. John's is
one of the fifty new churches, ordered by act of
Parliament to be built in the metropolis, and was
finished in 1732, when this district was separated
from St. Olave's.
St. Thomas's Church, on the south side of the
street of the same name, was annexed to St. Tho-
mas's Hospital, and included with that foundation in
the grant made by Edward VI. to the city of Lon-
don.*
St. Saviour's church, commonly called St. Mary
Ovnrey, originally belonged to a nunnery founded
by a female, previously to the Conquest, and en-
dowed with the profits of the ferry across the river
* For an account of St. Thomas's and Guy's Hospitals,
at this place before tbe creation of London-bridge.
This house was afterwards converted into a college
for priests, by whom the first bridge over the Thames
was built of wood, and kept in repair, till they were
enabled, by the munificence of benefactors, to sup-
ply its place by another of Stone. In 1106 the col-
lege was transformed into a priory of canons re-
gular ; after which the Bishop of Winchester brought
in secular canons in their stead. Henry I. gave
them the church of St. Margaret-on-the-Hill. In
the conventual church Peter de la Roche founded
a large chapel, dedicated to St. Magdalen, after-
wards used as the parish church. The annual re- '
venues of this priory, in 1539, were valued at
62-i/. 6s. 6d. There are considerable remains of this
edifice, which stood near the end of London-bridge.
Here is a very fine and spacious crypt, about .100
feet by 25, running north and south, and attaching
itself to the north transept of the church. On the
suppression of this priory the inhabitants of South-
wark purchased the church belonging to it, which
was by charter appropriated to the joint use of the
parishioners of St. Mary Magdalen and St. Mar-
garet, by the name of St. Saviour's. This church
is on the plan of a cathedral, though of smaller di-
mensions. The south side has a fine porch. The
tower, .standing in the centre, rises in three stories,
the walls finishing with battlements, adorned at the
angles with turrets and spires. From this tower
Hollar took his celebrated views of London both
before and after the great fire in 1660. — This church
has three chapels : -our Lady's, or the New Chapel,
at the east end of which is run out a small monu-
mental chapel, and which, after this edifice became
parochial, was let for upwards of sixty years by the
church-wardens for the purposes of a bake-house :
St. John's, now the vestry, on the north side of the
choir ; and St. Mary Magdalen's, on the south side.
In Our Lady's Chapel, a grave stoue, ten feet in
length, is supposed to cover the remains of the
celebrated William of Wykeham, who died in 1395.
Eastward of the altar is the monument of Lancelot
Andrews, Bishop of Winchester, who died in 1626.
Here also is a mural monument, from a design of
Mr. J. Soane, to the memory of Abraham Newland,
Esq. cashier to the Bank of England, who was in-
terred here in 1807. — Jn the/ north side aisle is a
curious monument for Gower, one of the earliest
English poets, and a benefactor of this church. The
statue is of the first costume sculpture, but lying
in the usual prostrate devotional attitude. — At the
end of the north transept is the ancient figure of a
cross-legged knight, carved in oak. — In SJ. Savi-
our's church-yard, is a Free Grammar School,
founded, at the charge of the parish by authority of
Queen Elizabeth in 1562. It is endowed fora mas-
ter arid usher, and is. free for such poor children' as
are natives of this parish. Adjoining is a Free
English School, founded about 1681, for thirty poor
•aide Vol. III. page 523.
boys
SURREY.
"boys of this parish. — Contiguous to the cliurcb of
St. Mary Overy formerly stood Winchester House,
the town residence of the prelates of that see. It
•was erected about the year 1107, by Bishop Gif-
fard, and was one of the most magnificent structures
la the city or suburbs of London,
Bankside was formerly a range of dwellings
licensed by the Bishops of Winchester, " for the
repair of incontinent men to the like women," and
denominated the Bordello, or Stew-houses. These
brothels were subject to various laws and regulations
enacted by parliament, among which we find the
following : that they were to be kept shut on holi-
days ; that no married woman should be received
into them ; that no man should be drawn or enticed
thither ; and that no stew-holder should keep any
•woman who had " the perilous infirmity ot'burning,"
or sell bread, ale, fish, or any victuals. In 4 Rich-
ard II. these houses, then belonging to Sir William
Wai worth, Lord Mayor of London, were rented of
him by Jroes, or bawds of Flanders, and were de-
stroyed by the Kentish rebels under Wat Tyler.
The ordinances respecting these houses were again
confirm«d by Henry VI. These privileged stews
Lad signs painted on the fronts which looked to-
wards the Thames, as the Boar's Head, the Cross
Keys, the Gun, the Cardinal's Hat, &c. The
•women who frequented them were forbidden the
rites of the church, and excluded from Christian
burial, unless they were reconciled to it before they
died. A plot of ground called the Single Women's
Church- yard, at some distance from the parish
church, was appointed for their interment. In 1546,
these stews were suppressed by Henry VIII. and it
•was proclaimed by sound of trumpet, that they
should be no longer privileged and used as com-
mon brothels, but that the inhabitants were to keep
good and honest rules as in other places of this
realm. — The Clink was a gaol for the confinement
of such as should " brabble, fray, or break the peace
on the said bank, or in the brothel-houses." This
prison has been represented as a filthy, noisome
.ilungeon. The Bishop of Winchester's steward
tries pleas of debt, damages, or trespass, within
the Clink liberty, for any sum. — On the Bank-side
was situated the theatre, called the Globe, where
the plays of Shakespeare were first represented.
Near the site of the Globe, the memory of which is
yet retained in Globe Alley, was the Bear Garden.
In this district, during the reign of Elizabeth, were
two of these bear gardens, one of which being over
crowded on a Sunday, in 1583, fell down during
the performance, by which accident many persons
were killed or maimed. Adjoining Winchester
House, on the sTouth, formerly stood the residence
of the Bishops of Rochester. Near the same spot
was also the house of the Abbots of Wuverley.
The Borough Market is a spacious area, sur-
rounded with stalls and other conveniencies for the
sale of various kinds of provisions, especially vege-
tables, the principal market for flesh being on the
west sid« of the Borough High Street. In Dead-
man's Place, on the west side of this market, is a
college, founded in the reign of Elizabeth, by
Thomas Cure. It consists of sixteen rooms for as
many poor men and women of St. Saviour's parish,
each of whom has 2Qd. a week. To this institution
a chapel is attached ; and here are also habitations
for six other poor persons, founded by different be-
nefactors.— At the end of the High Street is St.
Margaret's Hill, the site of the ancient church of
the same name, which, being forsaken on the union
of the parish with St. Saviour's, was converted into
a Sessions House and Prison, since removed to Mill
Lane, and denominated the Borough Compter. The
whole was rebuilt a few years ago. In the front
facing Blackmail Street, which is a continuation of
the High Street, the hustings for the election of
representatives for this borough are usually erected.
On the opposite side of the street was the Tabard
Inn, which was the residence of the Abbots of Hyde,
in Hampshire, whenever business, or their parlia-
mentary duty, required their presence in the metro-
polis. This was the house celebrated by Chaucer
as the place of rendezvous for pilgrims repairing to
Becket's shrine at Canterbury. The very building
described by him existed till 1676, when it was
burned, with the Sessions House, and other edifices.
When rebuilt it was called the Talbot, under the
erroneous idea that this was the same* with Tabard.
Talbot, however, was a name given to a particular
kind of dog ; and a Tabard is a coat without sleeves,
anciently worn by noblemen and others, but the use
of which is now confined to the Heralds' College.
On the east side of Blackman Street stands the
Marshalsea, a court of law and a prison, originally
intended for the determination of causes and differ-
ences between the king's menial servants, and under
the controul of the knight-marshal of the royal
household. To this place also persons guilty of
piracies, &c. are committed, though the offenders
are tried at the Old Bailey. The jurisdiction of
this court extends to the distance of twelve miles
round Whitehall, excepting the city of London^
for actions of debt, damages, trespasses, &c. ;
but liable to be removed to a higher tribunal when
the subject of litigation exceeds the value of five
pounds. — Southward of the Mar?halsea, on the
same side of the street, is the church of St. George
the Martyr. The original edifice belonged to the
Abbey of Bermondsey, to which it was given in
1122, by Thomas Arderne. The present structure
was finished in 1736. In the old church was interred
Edward Cocker, the celebrated arithmetician ; and
Bishop Bonner, who died miserably in the Marshal-
sea, in 1569, is said to have been buried in the
church-yard. — Opposite to this church, formerly
stood Suffolk Place, a magnificent mansion, erected
in the reign of Henry VIII. by Charles Brandon,
Duke of Suffolk, who exchanged it with the king
for the palace of the Bishop of Norwich, in St.
Martin's in the Fields. Its uame was then altered
to
SURREY.
349
t.o South wark Place, and it was used as a Royal
Mint for the coining of money. It was afterwards
given by Queen Mary to the see of York as a re-
compence for York House, which her father had
forcibly taken from it ; and was sold by Archbishop
Heath, who, with the produce, purchased another
residence for himself and his successors. This
mansion was then pulled down, the site was con-
verted into streets, and still retaining the name of
the Mint, the inhabitants assumed a privilege of
protection from arrests, on which it became for many
years the retreat of bankrupts and fraudulent debtors.
This privilege, though taken away by parliament, in
the reign of William the Third, was maintained by
violence in defiance of the law, till totally suppressed
under George the First. — In Union Street, north-
ward of the Mint, is Union Hall, a handsome struc-
ture, appropriated to the purposes of a police office ;
and at the south-east end of Blackman Street, in
Horsemonger Lane, is the County Gaol and House
of Correction for Surrey. The latter was erected
on the suggestion of the benevolent Howard, and
contains a good room for a court-hall, a chapel,
offices, and other suitable accommodations. Upon
the platform, on the top of this prison, executions
are performed. — At the opposite corner of Black-
mail Street, " is the King's Bench Prison, a place
of confinement for debtors, and for all other persons
sentenced by that court to suffer imprisonment. It
consists of one large pile of brick buildings, com-
prehending 224 rooms : the south centre has a pedi-
ment, under which is a chapel. The place enjoys all
the accommodations of a market, and is surrounded
by a brick wall, about thirty feet high, defended by
chetaux de frise, without which the marshal, or
keeper of the prison, has very handsome apartments.
The liberties, or rules, as they are termed, extend
about three miles round the prison, and the right of
residing in any part of them may be purchased by
debtors at the rate of ten guineas for the first hun-
dred pounds, and about half as much for each suc-
ceeding hundred pounds of the sums for which they
are in custody. Three day-rules may be obtained in
every term for 4s. 2rf. the first day, aud 3s. 10r/. the
others ; but these authorise the prisoner to go out
on those days only for which they are bought. In
both cases, good security must be given to the mar- j
shal. Prisoners in any other gaol may remove hither ;
by Habeas Corpus."
TANDRIDGE.] — The hundred of Tandridge, bound-
ed, on the north, by Wallington hundred ; on the
east, by Kent ; on the south, by Sussex ; and, on j
'the west, by Reigate and Waliington hundreds, con-
tains fourteen parishes : — Blechingley, Caterharo,
* The parents of this gentleman occupied a small farm of
20f. per annum, at Bulwick, in Northamptonshire, where he
was born in 1629. Having gone to London, he was employed
by a money scrivener, by whom he was afterwards admitted a
partner, lie became lord mayor of London, and was, during
nearly thirty years, one of its representatives in parliament, in
which capacity he was a favourer of the Exclusion Bill, and
VOL. IV. — NO. 166.
Chelsham, Crowhurst, Farleigh, Godstone, Limps-
field, Lirigfield, Okestecl, Tandridge, Tattesfield,
Titsey, Warlingham, and Woldingham.
Blechingley, situated near the loot of the chalk-
hills, 34 miles from Guildford, has enjoyed the pri-
vilege of returning two representatives to parliament
since the 23 Edward the First, the right of election
being vested in the burgage-holders resident within
the borough, in number about ninety-six. The manor,
which, at the time of Domesday Survey, belonged
to the Earls of Clare, was recently the property of
the Rev. Jervis Kenrick. The castle, of which the
foundations alone now remain, was built by Richard
de Tonbridge, Earl of Clare, and demolished
by the forces of Henry the Third, in 1264. The
church, which is large and handsome, had once a
spire, 170 feet high, which was consumed by light-
ning, in 1606. It now consists of a nave, a south
aisle, with a double chancel, and a transept. The
south chancel is entirely filled by the magnificent
monument of the first Sir Robert Clayton, * whose
figure, with that of his lady, is represented in white
marble. In this church was interred Dr. John
Thomas, Bishop of Rochester, who died in 1793, at
the age of eighty-two. In 1633, a free-school was
founded here for twenty poor boys, of the borough,
and endowed with about thirty acres of land, in the
adjoining parish of Nutfield. Ten alms-houses were
built here in 1008, and soon after, another was added
by the rector, Dr. Charles Hampton. The ancient
manor-house was the residence of Edward, Duke
of Buckingham, who was beheaded in the reign of
Henry the Eighth.
In the parish of Godstone is Marden Park, once
the seat of Sir Robert Clayton, and now the resi-
dence of Jolm Hatsell, Esq. Flower House is the
residence of the Hon. George Henry Neville. Fell-
bridge House was the seat of the late James Evelyn,
Esq. On and near Godstone Green, are four ancient
barrows ; and, on the chalk-hill, is a quarry of free-
stone of great durability.
Bysshe Court, in the hamlet of Ilourne, is the pro-
perty and residence of John Manship Ewart, Esq.
by whose grandfather, a great London distiller, it
was purchased, with the manor, iu 1788. In this
parish, King Athelstan is said to have had a house.
At Lingfield, a college was founded and endowed,
in 1431, by Reginald, Lord Cobham, for six chap-
lains of the Carthusian order. This building was
pulled down in the reign of George the First, and
a farm-house was erected on its site. The church
contains some curious monuments : one, a large
altar-tomb, on which repose two whole length figures
of a man and woman, the former in armour, his hair
consequently obnoxious to the court, by which he was doomed
to be sacrificed with the Lord Russel. He was a liberal patron
of the Hospital of St. Thomas, Southwark, of which he was
president, of Christ Church Hospital, and other charitable insti-
tutions, and left an unsullied character in public andprivatelife.
He died at his seat, at Marden, July 16, 1707.
4 T filleted,
350
SURREY.
filleted, and his feet resting on a dog ; the latter sup-
ported by two small angels, her feet resting on a
winged dragon. The whole tomb is surrounded by
shields of arms, twenty-five in number. Another
tomb supports a whole-length figure of a man in
armour, whose feet are supported by the figure of
a Turk. Here are also several monuments of the
Cobham family, and of the Howards, Earls of Ef-
fingham. — Sterburgh Castle, in this parish, Was
embattled by Reginald de Cobham, in the reign of
Edward the Third, and occupied by the parlia-
mentary forces in the seventeenth century, when,
probably, it was dismantled. The manor was pur-
chased, in 1793, by the present Sir Thomas Turton,
Bart. The ancient moat has been cleared out, and
is now a fine piece of water, enclosing an area of
more than an acre, in which a former proprietor
built a small room with stones found on the spot,
inscribing it,
Obscuro positus looo,
Leni pcrfruar olio.
At the small village of Tandridge, which was
formerly of sufficient importance to give name to
the hundred, an hospital was founded in the reign of
Richard the First, for three priests and several poor
brethren, of which no vestige now remains. Near
the foot of the chalk-hills, is Rook's-nest, a hand-
some mansion, late the residence of Sir Henry
Strachey, Bart, master of his Majesty's household.
WALLINGTON.] — The hundred of Wallington, now
more generally called Croydon hundred, is bounded,
towards the north, by Biixton ; towards the east, by
the county of Kent ; on the south, by Reignte and
Tandridge ; and, on the west, by the hundred of
Copthorne and Eflingham, and that of Kingston.
The parishes are Addinglon, Beddington, Carshal-
ton, Chaldon, Cheam, Colcsdon, Croydon, Mitcham,
Mordon, Sandersted, Sutton, Wallington, and
Woodnianston, in all thirteen.
At Addington, a hill near the church retains the
name of Castle Hill, from a tradition that it was
once, the site of a castle ; and on a common, near
the village, are twenty-five tumuli, one of which is
forty feet in diameter. The manor was held, after
the Conquest, by serjeantry of cook to the king,
and this service was performed by the then lord, at
the coronation of his present Majesty. Addington
Place, a modern mansion, in the centre of a park,
was built by Alderman Trecothick, in the last cen-
tury ; and was purchased, in 1807, by the Archbishop
of Canterbury, as a summer residence for himself
and his successors. — On the 2d of May, 1815, a
water-spout descended on the hills, about a mile
above the village of Addiugton. The water poured
in torrents from the heights ; and, rushing into the
valley, formed a rapid stream of fifty feet wide.
it took its way with irresistible force through the
village, forced open the doors, and carried away the
furniture of the habitations. A house and barn,
torn away from the garden wall of the Archbishop
of Canterbury, were overwhelmed, and some of the
swine which were carried away, were drowned.
Tomb-stones were removed from the church-yard ;
a considerable quantity of live-stock, including
cows and pigs, with corn and machinery, was lost ;
and the lives of several persons were endangered.
The deluge, accompanied by thunder and lightning,
continued upwards of two hours, and then subsided,
leaving a lamentable swamp in the neighbourhood.
Beddington is supposed, from some urns and
other remains discovered there, to have been fre-
quented by the Romans. Two of the manors have
been vested in the family of Carru, or Carew, since
the reign of Edward the Third. Beddington Park,
the seat of this family, is now the residence of Wil-
liam Gee, Esq. The old mansion was built in the
sixteenth century, by Sir Francis Carew, who en-
tertained Queen Elizabeth twice, in the years 1590,
and 1600. The present edifice was erected about
1709, and consisted of three sides of a square, one
of which was soon afterwards destroyed by fire.
The centre is a lofty hall, the great door of which
is secured by a curious lock, richly wrought with
the arms of England, in a groove, concealing-
the key-hole. Several of the rooms contain por-
traits of the families of Carew and Hacket ; among
which is a good picture of Bishop Hacket, by Sir
Peter Lely, and one of Sir Nicholas Carew, who
was beheaded in the reign of Henry the Eightlu
In the church are many monuments of this noble
family, the most magnificent of which is one to
the memory of Sir Francis Carew, who died in
1011, aged eighty-one.
Wallington, a hamlet in this parish, is supposed
to have been formerly a place of some importance,
from its having given name to the hundred, and
from the vestiges of ancient buildings which are
sometimes discovered ; from the urns and spear-
heads which have been found, it would appear to
have been a Roman station. It is, at present, more
populous than Beddington, having been much im-
proved during the last filly years. — At Woodcote,
now a single farm-house in this parish.Camden, with
other learned antiquaries, has placed the Xovioniagus
of the Romans.
Carshalton Park, in the parish of that name, is
the property and residence of George Taylor, Esq.
In the church is a curious monument, consisting of
an altar-tomb, on which are the upright figures of
a whole family of the Gay nesfords : — the father, who
was five times sheriff of Surrey, and in high favour
with Henry the Seventh ; his wife, in a head-dress
of unusual size, and a red robe, fringed with gold ;
their eldest son, in armour, as his father's esquire ;
the second son, as a priest ; two others, as mer-
chants ; and, finally, three daughters.
Croydon, 9f miles S. from London, consists of
one well-built street, nearly a mile in length; and
is well situated for trade, lor which great facilities
are afforded by the iron rail-way from Wands worth
to Merstham, and by a navigable canal, which is a
channel
SURREY.
351
channel of communication between this place and
the Surrey canal, at Rotherliithe. The parish is
extensive, comprehending about 10,000 acres. Some
antiquaries have placed here the Novionwgas of the
ancients, and suppose that the Roman road from
Arundel to London passed through, or near the
town. The Londoners, who had joined the barons
against King Henry the Third, were defeated here
in 1264; and, in May, 1551, Croydon, with some
of the neighbouring villages, experienced a violent
shock of an earthquake. At a period prior to Domes-
day Survey, the manor was annexed to the see of
Canterbury, to which it has belonged ever since ;
the manor-house, or palace, having been the occa-
sional residence of those principals of the church in
England. Here Queen Elizabeth visited the arch-
bishops Parker and Whitgift, more than once ; and
was entertained by the former, with her whole court,
for seven days. The property of the archbishops in
this manor was, however, suspended during the
Interregnum. The edifice, called the Palace, was
built in the fourteenth century, and is conjectured
to have been one of the first buildings constructed
entirely of brick. In 1780, being much out of repair,
it was sold, with the grounds, containing fourteen
acres, for 2,520/. The premises are now occupied
as a calico-printing manufactory ; and the chapel is
used as a Sunday School, and a Scliool of Industry.
The church, built of flint and white stone, is large
and handsome, having a lofty tower surmounted by
pinnacles, and consisting of a nave, two aisles, and
three chancels, of which the whole length is 130 feet,
and the breadth 74. The middle chancel contains
some ancient wooden stalls, and a handsome marble
monument of Archbishop Grindall, who is repre-
sented in his robes, and blind. In the south chancel,
is the monument of Archbishop Whitgift, who died
in 1610, and that of Archbishop Sheldon, who died
in 1077 ; this last is a master-piece of sculpture,
the work of an Englishman, Joseph Latham. Three
archbishops of the last century were also interred
here : Wake, in 1731 ; Potter, in 1747 ; and Herring,
in 1757. In the church-yard, is the tomb of Con-
stantine Phipps, the first Lord Mulgrave, who died
in 1775. Here, too, Alexander Barclay, author of
the " Ship of Fools," was interred, in 1552. —
Whitgift's Hospital was founded by Whitgift, at an
expence of 2700/. and endowed by him with lands to
the annual value of 185/. for a warden, schoolmaster,
and twenty-eight poor brethren and sisters, who
must be sixty years old, and inhabitants of Croydon
or Lambeth. An alms-house was founded for seven
poor persons, in the reign of Henry the Sixth ; and
in 1775, a building, called the Little Alms-house,
was erected for the reception of twelve poor inha-
bitants. A handsome and commodious Town-hall
•was erected a few years ago, in which, andat Guild-
ford, the summer assizes are held alternately. Near
this place are several gentlemen's mansions : Haling
House, in the occupation of James Penlees, Esq. is
the properly of William Parker Hammond, Esq.
Shirley House is the property ef J. Maberly, Esq. ;
Coombe House is the residence of James Henry
Bourdieu, Esq. ; and Addiscombe House, the rooms
of which were painted by Sir James Thornhill, is
the property of Delme Radcliffe, Esq. A consi-
derable part of the waste, formerly a forest, called
Norwood, lies in the parish of Croydon.
Mitcham Grove was presented by Lord Clive to
Alexander Wedderburn, Esq. afterwards Lord
Loughborough, in gratitude for his defence of that
nobleman in the House of Commons. It is at pre-
sent the property of Henry Hoare, Esq.
At Sandersted, is Sandersted Court, formerly
the property of the Wigsell family ; and, in the same
parish is Purley, where was composed Home
Tooke's celebrated work, entitled the " Diversions
of Purley."
Woodmansterne is said to be the most elevated
part of the county, except Leith Hill, and very sa-
lubrious. In this parish is a hunting seat of the
Earl of Derby, called the Oaks, originally fitted
up by General Burgoyne.
WOKING.] — The hundred of Woking, bounded
towards the north by Berkshire, and Godley hun-
dred ; eastward, by Copthorne and Eftingham ; to
the south, by the hundreds of Wootou, Blackheath,
Godalming, and Farnham ; and westward, by
Hampshire ; contains seventeen parishes : — Ash,
East Clandon, West Clandon, Guildford, East
Horsley, West Horsley, Merrovv, Ockham, Pir-
bright, Ripley Send, Stoke, Wanborough, Windle-
siiiiin, Wisley, Woking, and Worplesdon.
Bagshot Park is the property of the Duke of
Gloucester. The adjoining heath is of great extent,
and is stocked with cows and sheep.
At East Clandon, is Hatchland Park, once the
property of Admiral Boscawen, who died here ; and
now the seat of Holme Sumner, Esq.
At West Clandon, is Clandon Place, the beauti-
ful scat of Earl Onslovv. The entrance to this
mansion is a hall, the dimensions of which are 40
feet every way. It is adorned with two chimney-
pieces, by Rysbrack ; one, representing a sacrifice
to Diana ; the other, which is considered as his mas-
ter-piece, a sacrifice to Bacchus. The rooms are
embellished with good pictures, and some portraits ;
and the site of the house is such as to afford a fine
| view of the beauties which nature and art have scat-
tered around with a liberal hand.
Guildford, the county town, 30 miles S. W.
from London, is large, well built, and agreeably
situated on the side of a considerable chalk hill,
on the east bank of the Wey. It is one of the best
inland towns of its size in the kingdom. It consists
principally of one capital street, nearly half a mile
in length ; the spaciousness of which, with the decli-
vity of its situation, exhibits a striking appearance.
Guildford is a corporation by prescription, and
is considered as such in the earliest of its written
charters, that of Henry III. A. D. 1256. The town
is governed by a mayor, recorder, seven magis-
trates
352
SURREY.
trates, and a number ofbailiffs, which is indetermi-
nale, but seldom or never exceeding twenty, by tb<?.
style of the mayor and approved men of Guildford,
•who hold a court every three weeks, and are in-
vested with the power of adjudging criminals to
death at their general sessions. — This borough has
sent members to Parliament ever since 23 Edward I.
The right of election is in the freemen and free-
holders of the borough paying scot and lot, and re-
sident within its limits, which scarcely include one
half of the town. The assizes for the county are
held here alternately with Kingston and Croydon ;
and the election for knights of the shire always
takes place in this town.
Alfred the Great bequeathed this town <o Ethel-
wald, his nephew, on whose rebellion, or death, it
reverted to the Crown. Tradition states, " that
the ancieat town was situated on the west side of the
river ; that the castle was erected on the east side
as the only spot capable of receiving it; that, in
process of time, as the occasions of the new fortress
induced people to settle in its neighbourhood, houses
were gradually built in the void space above and
below it, by the Testard family, to whom the lands
on that side had been granted, and who also erected
the two churches of Trinity and St. Mary for their
tenants; and that, on the demolition of the fortifi-
cation and outworks of the castle, the present High
Street arose out of the materials furnished from
their ruins." Part of the royal demesne which lay
on the west side of the river was reserved for the
king's private use ; and being emparked by Henry II.
•was occupied for many generations under the name
of the King's Manor. Of that which lay on the
east side, some was swallowed up in the tract of
ground afterwards occupied by the castle ; some
was alienated to the family of Testard, by whose
successors it was afterwards called the manor of
Poyle ; and the remainder disposed of to make room
for the Friary. — Henry II. soon after his corona-
tion, in 1154, inclosed ;i considerable tract of land
on the north side of Guildford Down, and converted
it into a park. In his time also there was a mansion-
house in the park, probably first erected by him ;
and here he frequently kept his court. Guildford
was the occasional residence of many of our kings,
till, in the reign of Charles I. the Earl of Annandale
obtained a grant of the manor and park in fee simple,
by which he was empowered to dispark the lauds,
which were declared to be out of the bounds of any
forest or chase. The friary included in this grant
* Harold, surnamed Harefoot, having been seated on the
tlirone by the intrigues of Godwin, Earl of Kent, in opposition
to the sense of the people, which favoured Hardicanute, son
of the late king, then absent in Denmark; his mother, Emma,
an ambitious woman, fearful of losing her influence, conceived
the design of procuring the crown for her son, Alfred, or his
brother, Edward, the issue of her first marriage with King
Elhelred. For this purpose she obtained Harold's permission
to send for them from Normandy ; and on their arrival in
England, the king, through the persuasion of Godwin, who
I was declared to be the principal house, or lodge of
the park. On the decease of the Earl of Annandale,
in 1640, this estate passed through various hands ;
and, under a decree of the Court of Chancery, the
manor and park were sold, in 1709, to the Honour-
able Thomas Onslow, afterwards Lord Onslow.
Soon after this the lands were disparked, and are
now occupied as four distinct farms, the property
of Earl Onslow. — The castie, the most prominent
object in this town, is situated about 300 yards
southward of the High Street. The keep, standing
1 on an artificial mount, is its principal relic. It is
i a quadrangle, forty-seven feet by forty-five and a
i half, and seventy feet high. The foundation, to the
1 height of eight or nine feet, is of chalk, above which
I the walls are constructed of flints, rag-stone, and
! Roman brick, disposed in the herring-bone fashion.
I It continues very strong, the walls being ten feet
; thick ; but is uncovered, the roof having, on ac-
! count of decay, been taken off about 200 years ago.
On the west side of the keop, towards the south, or
Quarry Street, still remains the outer gate of the
castle, where was a portcullis, with the date 1669,
and the initials J. (/'., as having been rebuilt by
John, grandson of Francis Carter, to whom this
ancient edifice was granted by James I. The site
at present occupied by these ruins is about five acres ;
but it must formerly have been very extensive. The
cellars of the Angel Inn, on the north side of the
High Street, and those of a private dwelling di-
rectly opposite to it on the south side, are supposed
to have been part of the vaults belonging to the cas-
tle.— In the chalky cliff on which the castle stands,
about 200 yards to the south-west, is a cavern, or
rather a series of caverns, the entrance to which is
near Quarry Street, facing the west. Here is a gen-
tle descent into a cave forty-five feet long, twenty
wide, and nine high ; near the entrance, on either
hand, were two lower passages, now closed up,
leading to the other caverns. For what purpose
these excavations were formed it is impossible to
ascertain. — The founder of the castle, and the date
of its construction, are alike unknown. King seems
inclined to consider the keep at least as a Saxon
fortress, constructed during the time of the heptar-
chy. The Domesday Survey does not mention it.
The first time that it occurs in history is in the year
1036.*— In 1216, when Louis, Dauphin of France,
came over to England on the invitation of the barons,
he soon possessed himself of this castle. In 1299,
it was assigned to Margaret, second wife of Ed-
suspected Emma's intentions, gave them an invitation to spend
a few days at his court. The mother, fearful of some design,
suffered but one of her sons to go, and Alfred ?et out, attended
by a numerous retinue of Normans. Near Guildtord he was
met by Godwin, who, with all the semblance of respect, in-
vited him to partake of some refreshment in the castle. No
sooner had he reached it, than Godwin threw off the mask ;
Alfred was immediately seized, conducted to Ely, and, after
his eyes had been put out, shut up in a monastery for life.
His attendants were tortured, and COO of them put to death.
ward
SURREY.
353
ward I- as P!irt °f uer dowry ; but it wa* used as a
common gaol in tliesaroe reign, it continued t» be
applied to <he purpose of a gaol down to the reign
of Henry VII. It was granted by James I. in
Hill, to Francis Carter, of Guildford, in whose
descendants it was vested, till it became by pur-
chase, some years ago, the property of the Duke of j
Norfolk.
Eleanor, consort of Henry III. founded a house |
of Dominicans, or Preaching Friars, on the east
bank of the river, a little to the north of the High
Street. Alter the Dissolution, Henry VIII. built a
mansion on its site, which James I. demised, by
lease, to Sir George More, Knt. of Loseley, of whom
it was purchased by George Austin, Gent, who, hav-
ing pulled it down and rebuilt it, disposed of his
interest in it to John Murray, Esq. afterwards Earl
of Annandale. This nobleman, in consideration of
the sum of 5000/. obtained a grant of the estate, ,
with the park of Guildford, in fee-simple, on which
he erected the present mansion, which is built for
the most part of chalk, with squares of flint regu-
larly interspersed, having an elegant portico of the
Doric order at the entrance, very much in the style
of the celebrated Inigo Jones. After passing through
various hands, this property was sold, about 1721,
to John Russel and George Mabank. Mabank's
share, containing the site of the Friary, the present
mansion-house, and other lands, was purchased
about 1736 by the Right Hon. Arthur Onslow, and
is now the property of Lord Onslow. Assemblies
and public breakfasts were held in a long room here,
not many years ago.
Guildford has three parish churches, dedicated to
the Holy Trinity, St. Mary, and St. Nicholas. —
Trinity Church, on the top of the hill, and on the
south side of the High Street, was probably built
by some of the Testard family for the use of their
tenants. In that part of the old church called Our
.Lady's Chapel was a chauntry, denominated Nor-
brigge and Kyngeston's chauntry, founded by letters
patent of Henry VII. iu 1485-6. The lands be-
longing to this chauntry have ever since 3 ICdw. VI.
been in the hands of the corporation, and are still
known by the name of the Chauntry Lands. Ano-
ther chauntry, or chapel, called Weston's, was
founded by one of the family of that name at Sut-
ton. About 1739 the inhabitants repaired this church
at an expense of 750/. taking away the arches and
pillars which supported the steeple. On the 23d of
April, 1740, the tower fell down and beat in the
roof, by which the whole structure was so much da-
maged, that it was found necessary to take it down.
The first stone of the new structure was laid in
1749, and it was opened for divine service in 1763.
This is of brick, eighty-two feet in length, and
fifty-two and a half in breadth. — The only sepulchral
memorial of the old church, placed in the new one,
is that of Archbishop Abbot, which stands at the
east end of the south aisle. At the east end of the
north aisle is a cenotaph erected by Earl Onslow, in
VOL. iv. — NO. 166.
honour of his father, the Right Hon. Arthur Onslow,
Speaker of the House of Commons, who died in 1768.
Mr. Onslow's remains were interred in the family
burial-place at Merrow.
St. Mary's church, an ancient building, of chalk,
with an intermixture of flints, pebbles, and rubble
stones, rudely put together, is supposed to have been
erected by one of the Testard family. It stands on
the declivity of the hill, a little to the southward of the
High Street. It has a nave, two aisles, and a chan-
cel, with a chapel on each side of it, formerly com-
municating with the chancel by arches now stopped
op. Eastward of the centre of this church is a small
embattled tower.
The church of St. Nicholas", on the west bank of
the Wey, is an ancient building, of chalk, intermixed
with stone. It has a nave and two aisles, under three
different tile-covered roofs. Attha west end is a low
tower, built entirely of an indifferent kind of stone,
and standing on circular arches. A chnpel belong-
ing to the manor of Loseley adjoins the south end
of the church, from which it is separated by an open
wooden skreen. This church stands in so low and
wet a situation, that a floor of boards has been laid
over the old floor. — On the north side of the High
Street, and nearly opposite to Trinity Church, is the
hospital founded by George Abbot, Archbishop of
Canterbury, for the maintenance of a master, twelve
brethren, and eight sisters.
The Free Grammar School, of brick and stone,
stands in Trinity parish. The school -room 65 feet
in length, and 22 in breadth, was begun in 1557.
On the front of the building are the royal arms ;
and underneath, in capitals of gold :
ScHOLAREGIAGRAMMATICALIsEnVARDlSEXTI,1550.
John Parkhurst, Bishop of Norwich; William
Cotton, Bishop of Exeter ; Henry Cotton and
Robert Abbot, Bishops of Salisbury ; George Abbot,
Archbishop of Canterbury; Sir Robert Parkhurst,,
who died lord mayor of London in 1035, and Sir
Maurice Abbot, brother of the two prelates, and
lord mayor of the same city in 1639, commenced
their education here.
The Town Hall is spacious, with a turret on the
top, and was erected in 1683, when the old market-
house was taken down. In the north window over
the mayor's chair are the Queen's arms, and those
of the corporation. Here are whole length pic-
tures of James I. Charles II. and James II. the
two last by Sir Peter Lely ; William III. and !iis
Queen, and Vice-Admiral Sir Richard Onslow re-
ceiving the Dutch flag after the victory in 1797.
The last was painted by John Russell, R. A. a
native of this town, and presented by his father,
who several times served the office of mayor. The
council-chamber up stairs at the south end of the
hall is a lofty handsome room. The chimney-piece
was brought from Stoughton in Stoke, when that old
family seat was taken down. It is adorned with
figures carved in stone, and inscribed : SANT.UINEUS,
CUOLERICUS, PHLEGMATICOS, MFXANCHOUCUS. This
4 1 room
354
SURREY.
room is used by the bench of justices, at tbe quarter
sessions. The hull itself is used at the assizes. In
1789, Lord Onslow and Lord Grantlcy purchased
the Red Lion Inn, anil on one part of the ground
built a room 40 feet by 30, and 20 feet high, in
which the judges now sit, and which the corporation
use for public dinners. — Near this room a Theatre
was built some years ago ; and, in 1800, a cock-pit
was converted into a market-house for butter, eggs,
poultry, &c.
The Gaol, near St. Mary's Church, was rebuilt of
stone, in 1765. — The Spital, or Hospital, situated
in that part of the parish of Stoke which adjoins to
Guildford on the east, was dedicated to St. Thomas,
and had a prior or master, of whom mention is made
in the ancient court-rolls of the manor of Stoke ;
but at what time, or by whom it was founded, is not
known. The name of Prior is still given to the
person occupying this house for the time being, who
also formerly received a stipend of 14/. per annum,
which has been discontinued ; the house and garden,
with the rents of some small parcels of the demesne,
being deemed an equivalent. It has, in latter times,
been appropriated to the reception of a cripple, on
the 'alternate recommendation of the town of Guild-
ford and the county at large ; but since 1698, it has
been usual to admit on a vacancy any person who
is recommended to the feoffees by the magistrates of
the corporation. The Court Leet and Court Baron
of the manor of Poyle are annually held here.
Guildford has a charity-school, at which twenty-
five poor boys are instructed and clothed ; a Roman
Catholic Chapel, and meeting-houses of the Bap-
tists, Presbyterians, Quakers, &c. — The bridge of
five arches over the Wey, built of stone, was some
years since widened with brick, and the centre arch
enlarged to allow barges to pass through. — In 1775,
the late Lord Grantley constructed a cold bath, at a
house near the bridge, for the convenience of the
inhabitants, at which there is attendance every day.
— The town is supplied with water by means of an
Engine, which throws it into a reservoir at the foot
of Poyle-hill, whence it is conveyed by pipes into
the bouses of the inhabitants. — About 10 or 12
years ago, an act was obtained for repaving the
whole town with flag stones, and removing the pro-
jecting signs, and other nuisances. By means of a
turnpike-road to Ilorsham, the town now enjoys a
direct communication with Brighton and the coast
of Sussex ; and a junction has been formed between
the river Wey, at Guildford, and the Arun, so as to
establish a direct navigable line from the metropolis
to the sea at Little Hampton. — About two miles
eastward from the town is a fine circular course for
horse-races ; where a plate of one hundred guineas,
given by William 111. and three subscription plates,
exclusively of matches, are run for in the Whitsun-
week.
About a mile from Guildford, on a hill in the
parish of Si. Nicholas, close to the road of Godalm-
iiig;, are the ruins of St. Katharine's Chapel, which
seems to have been an elegant structure. Its
foundation is ascribed to King Henry II. who
is said to have appropriated it as a place of worship
for the tenants of his manor of Ertiudon, after he
had detached it from Godalming, on granting the
latter to the church of Salisbury. — In the same
parish, about two miles south-west of Guildford, is
Lothesley, or Losely House, now the property of
James More Molyneux, Esq. — The house, which
stands in the middle of a beautiful park, is large ;
but was formerly much more spacious. It is of
stone, and was built by Sir William More, Knight,
between the years 1562, and 1568. The main body
of the present mansion faces the north, and has an
extensive wing on the west. On the east is the
garden wall, of equal dimensions with the wing, and
with corresponding projections and doors, but the
latter are now filled up. In the centre is a hall, 42
feet long, and about 25 broad. The wing contains
on the first floor a gallery, 121 feet long, and 18
wide. Amongst some good paintings, are the fol-
lowing port raits, whole lengths: Queen Anne Boleyn,
by Holbein ; Sir Thomas More ; Sir William More,
and his lady ; Sir George, Sir Robert, and Sir
Poynings More ; Nathaniel, who married Miss
Booth, and his lady ; Sir Thomas Molyneux, who
married one of the two co-heiresses of the Mores ;
Elizabeth, her sister, who died unmarried ; Sir More
Molyneux, his lady, and their eleven children, in
one large piece, &c. On the stairs leading to the.
gallery is a large allegorical picture, representing-
at one end the effects of an honourable and virtuous
life ; at the other, of vice and debauchery. At the
bottom, in the centre, is a chariot, drawn by two
oxen ; the driver is an old man holding a crutch ;
one figure is standing upright in the chariot, with
Death at his hack, and a motto, respice Jinem. In
the gallery are whole lengths of James I. and hi*
queen, and a small three-quarters of Edward VI.
dated 1549. — Loseley has several times been
honoured with the presence of sovereigns. Queen
Elizabeth was a frequent visitor ; and in the gal-
lery are two gilt needle-work chairs, with cushions,
worked by that princess. A neat consecrated chapel
was fitted up here by the late Mr. Strode, who occu-
pied this mansion, some years ago.
At East Horsley, is Horsley Place, the seat of
William Cnrrie, Esq. ; and at Ockham, is Ockhain
Park, the seat of Lord King. Of this place, Wil-
liam Ockham, a. -philosopher of the fourteenth cen-
tury, was a native. He was author of some pole-
mical tracts, and died at Munich, in 1330.
At West Horsley, is the mansion of Sutton,
Esq. formerly the residence of the Raleigh family.
The head of Sir Walter, which had been interred here,
was, some time since, discovered in a niche just large
enough to contain it, near the grave of his son.
Ripley, a tithing in the parish of Send, is said
to have been the birth-place of George Ripley, a.
famous alchymist, and Carmelite friar of the fif-
teenth century.
In
SURREY.
855
In the parish of Send, stood Newark priory,
founded in the reign of Richard I., and dedicated
to the Blessed Virgin and St. Thomas of Canter-
bury. The estate was bought, in If II, by Sir
Richard Onslow, whose descendant, Earl Onslow,
is the present proprietor. Part of the church alone
remains ; the other buildings have been long con-
signed to the roads. Send Grove is the seat of
Serjeant Onslow.
At Stoke, is a mansion and park, late the resi-
dence of William Aldersey, Esq. and now the pro-
perty of the Hon. T. C. Onslow, who married the
daughter of that gentleman. Woodbriclge House,
in this parish, belongs to the family of Creuze.
The church, built of common stone, mixed with
flints, consists of a nave, chancel, and north aisle.
In a chapel, called Stoughton's, are several monu-
mental inscriptions, chiefly for members of that
family ; and, in the chancel, is a marble tablet,
with an inscription to the memory of the Right
Hon. Jeremiah Dyson, a gentleman who held many
places of trust in the state, and died in 1776, at the
age of 54. James Price, M. D. and F. R. S. who
died, in 1783, at the early age of 25, was interred
here. On the road from Guildford to Stoke is a
brick edifice, founded in 1796, by Mr. William
Parson, for six poor widows, and endowed with
3700/. in the three per cents, consolidated annuities.
Woking, situated on the Wey, is but a small
place, although it gives name to the hundred, and
has been the occasional residence of several of our
sovereigns, of whom it was also the property. This
manor, with the rest of the hundred, was granted,
by James I. to Sir Edward Zouch, from whom it
has descended to Earl Onslow, the present pro-
prietor. The site of the ancient mansion may be
distinguished near the Wey, by the foundations,
which are of brick, and by the walls of a sort of
guard-room. A tenement, called the Hermitage,
was lately the residence of Joseph White, Esq. —
Houghbridge Place, was built near the site of an
older mansion of the Zouches, by the last heir male
of that family, and is the property of Henry Grant,
Esq. — Sutton Place, situated on the west side of
the river, was built by Sir Richard Weston, about
1530, in the form of a quadrangle, enclosing an
area, 80 feet square. The first story of the south
east front is a gallery, 141 feet long, 20 broad, and
14 high; in which Queen Elizabeth was entertained
in her way to Chichester, in 1591 ; on which occa-
sion, by the neglect of the servants, it was reduced
to ashes. The last heir of the family of Weston
died in 1782, devising this estate to John Webbe,
Esq. of Sarnsfield Court, Herefordshire, on condi-
tion that he should assume the surname and arms of
Weston. In the church of Woking was interred
Sir Edward Zouch, Knt. marshal of the household
to Jaines I. and Charles I. ; it also contains a neat
monument to the memory of Edward Emily, M.A.
* Borough-En glish is the name of an ancient usage among
prebendary of Salisbury, vicar of Gillingham and
Lavington, and master of St. Nicholas' Hospital,
at Harnham. Aubrey relates that a plant, as thick
as a bull-rush, springs from newly interred corpses
in the church-yard of Woking, and in others where
the soil is a light red sand.
WOTTON.] — The hundred of Wotton, now some-
times called the hundred of Dorking, is bounded, on
the north, by Copthorne and Effingham ; on the
east, by Reigate ; on the south, by Sussex ; and,
on the west, by Blackheath ; and comprehends the
five parishes of Abinger, Capel, Dorking, Ockley,
and Wotton.
The market-town of Dorking, 13 miles E. from
Guildford, and 23 S.S.W. from London, is situated
in a sandy vale, near the river Mole. It consists of
three principal streets, which are well watered nnd
clean. The manor was granted after the Conquest,
to the Earls of Warren, from whom it descended to
the Fit/.-Alans, Earls of Arundel, and afterwards,
by marriage, to the Movvbrays, except one-fourth
part, which, however, was purchased by the late
Duke of Norfolk. The ancient custom of Borough-
English prevails here. * The church, which is built
of white stone, mixed with flint, consists of a nave,
two aisles, and a chnnce), the whole length ef which
is 127 feet; the breadth of the nave and aisles 53
feet, and that of Ihe chancel H)i. Adjacent to
the north transept, is a handsome mausoleum, of
Portland stone, erected by Mr. Talbot, of Chert
Park. Among other distinguished persons interred
here, was the great-grand-father, and first wife,
of the late Duke of Norfolk; Abraham Tucker,
author of " The Light of Nature Pursued ;" ami
Jeremiah Markland, an eminent scholar and critic,
of the last century. — The Roman road from Arundel
passed through the church-yard, and is often dis-
covered in digging graves. — The neighbourhood ot
Dorking is celebrated for a breed of fonts, with five
claws, supposed to have been brought hither by the
Romans.
An ancient mansion, called Sonde Place, was for-
merly the residence of the Sondes, who probably
derived their name from it. The beautiful hills,
round Dorking, are scattered over with numerous
villas. Shrub Hill is the residence of Lord Leslie.
West Beechworth, an ancient mansion on an emi-
nence, near the Mole, was once the property of the
Fitz- Alans, afterwards of the Browns, and now
belongs to Henry Peters, Esq. The park is remark-
able for the fine timber which it contains, especially
for two beautiful avenues ; one of elms, the other,
j 350 yards long, is composed of limes of extraordi-
nary dimensions. The downs, on the opposite bank
of the Mole, are covered with yew and box trees,
of great antiquity, of which a late proprietor sold
15,000/. worth, allowing the purchaser fourteen
years to cut it down. A mansion at Dipden, now
the residence of Thomas Hope, Esq. was built near
our auccstors, by which the ) oungest sou iHlicriu-d tliecopyhold.
SURREY.
the site of an ancient building, which had been the
residence of the Honourable Charles Howard, great -
grand-father of the late Duke of Norfolk, a gentle-
man, passionately devoted to the study of Natural
Philosophy ; for the facilitation of which, he caused
to be formed numerous grottoes. — Chert Park was
purchased, in 1746, by Henry Talbot, Esq. who,
after adding greatly to its natural beauties, be-
queathed it to his daughter ; and that lady, at her
death, left it to her kinsman, Sir Charles Talbot,
who made it his residence. — Denby's, a mansion,
situated on the summit of the downs, was pur-
chased, in 1734, by Jonathan Tyers, the contriver
of Vauxhall Gardens ; and, by him, laid out in a
style entirely different from that well-known pro-
duction of his taste. All the objects which excite
solemn thoughts, and impress man with a sense of
bis nothingness, were here assembled ; and the fane
of melancholy was erected in a small wood, charac-
teristically denominated 11 Penseroso. — The present
proprietor is Joseph Dennison, Esq. Bury Hill, a
small mansion, erected, during the last century, by
Edward Walter, Esq. is the property of G. Bar-
clay, Esq. — The Rookery, an elegant seat, on the
small stream called Pipbrook, was laid out by Daniel
Malthus, Esq. by whom it was sold to Richard Ful-
ler, Esq. the father of the present owner. On an
eminence, southward from Dorking, known by the
name of Hanstie Bury, are the remains of a fortress,
circular, and surrounded by a double ditch, which
encloses an area of 11 a. 1 r. 6 p. In the neigh-
bouring fields, have been found the stone heads of
arrows.
At Ockley, are the remains, two miles in length,
of the Stane Street, or Roman Road, from Arundel
to Dorking, formed of Hints and pebbles ; and, in
some places, 30 feet broad, and 5 deep. At this
place, the Danes were defeated, by Ethelwolf, in
*. This gentleman, whose name was John, was born in
1620, at Wotton House, and was educated at Baliol College,
Oxford. Having borne arms on the King's side, in 1642, he
set out on his travels, which he did not complete till 1651. At
Paris he married the daughter of Sir Richard Brown, Ambas-
sador at the French court, by which alliance he became owner
of Sayes Court, at Depttord. He was one of the first mem-
bers of the Uoyal Society, and enjoyed many public appoint-
851, after their sackage of London. It was for-
merly the custom, in this parish, that, if cither of
two contracted parties died before marriage, the
survivor planted roses at the grave of the deceased.
This, and many other circumstances in this part of
the island, mark the prevalence of Roman customs.
Wotton House, in the parish of that name, has,
since the reign of Elizabeth, been a seat of the
Evelyns ; one of whom * was the celebrated author
of Sylva. Leith Hill, the highest ground in the
county, has a gradual ascent, from the north, to
the very summit, which commands a view of Surrey,
Sussex, and the sea, to the southward ; on the west,
of Hampshire, Berkshire, and Oxfordshire ; and,
towards the north, of London. Leith-hill Place,
on the southern slope of this eminence, was, during
the last century, the property of Lieutenant-Gene-
ral Folliott, who rose from the ranks ; afterwards
of Richard Hull, Esq. who built a tower on the
summit of the hill, which he inscribed thus : —
Ut terram undique beatam
Videas, viator,
Hwc turris de longfc spectabilis,
Sumptibus Ricardi Hull,
Ex agro Leith Hill Place Armig.ri
Regnante GeorgioTertio
Anno Dom. MDCCLXVI.
Extructa fuit, *
Oblectameuto non sui solum,
Sed Vicinorum,
Et Omnium.
Here Mr. Hull was interred ; and a mural monu-
ment was erected, which informed the visitor, that
he had served in the Irish parliament, and had lived
on terms of intimacy with Pope, Trenchard, and
Bishop Berkeley. — Holmbury, a large camp on an
eminence of the same name, is fortified by a double
trench, except where it is defended by the declivity ;
and contains an area of 8 a. 3 r. 13 p.
ments, which did not, however, hinder the progress of his
studies, as, besides his Sylva, he published " Sculptura, or
the History and Art of Chalcography and Engraving on Cop-
per ; Numismata, or Discourse of Medals," and other works
to the number in all of twenty-six. He died in 1706, and was
interred at Wotton. His son wrote a Greek poem, prefixed to
his father's Sylva.
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SUSSEX.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.
THE county of Sussex is bounded, on the north,
by Surrey, and Kent ; on the east, by Kent,
and the British channel ; on the west, by Hamp-
shire ; and, on the south, by the British channel.
It is about 76 miles in length ; its mean breadth is
somewhat under 20 miles ; and its superficial contents
have been variously estimated, at 908,952 ; 933,360 ;
and 1,140,000 square acres ; but, according to the
latest official returns, the number of acres is 935,040.
— The climate, in the western part of the maritime
district, is warm, and highly favourable to vegeta-
tion ; but it is extremely bleak on such parts of the
South Down hills as are exposed to the south-west.
Here the winds are frequently so boisterous as to
strip the coverings from thatched buildings, corn-
stacks, &c. and to blow the standing corn out of
the ear when ready for harvest. "These winds,"
observes the Rev. Mr. Young," in his View of the
Agriculture of Sussex, " when impregnated with
saline particles, occasioned by the beating of the
spray against the beach, destroy all the hedges and
trees within the sphere of their influence. On the
side exposed to their fury the hedges seem to be cut
as if it were artificially ; and in very open situations,
though at a considerable distance from the coast,
the spray penetrates the houses even if built with
brick. Hence arises the necessity of placing all
buildings in this district in low and sheltered posi-
tions, to prevent the mischief which would other-
wise be occasioned by these winds." By some
persons, however, the destructive operation here
attributed to the saline state of the atmosphere, is
ascribed solely to the cutting force of the wind. —
The coast of Sussex has, of late years, become in
a peculiar manner the resort of rank, fashion, and
opulence ; its hills and downs presenting the same
variety of pleasing and picturesque situations as
those of Surrey.
SOILS.] — The soils, found in Sussex, are chalk,
clay, sand, loam, and gravel : — the first, on the
South Down hills ; the second, on the Weald ; the
third, on the borders of Surrey ; the fourth, on the
north side of the hills ; and the fifth, between the
rich loam of the coast, and the neighbouring chalk
bills. On the summit of the Downs, the soil is
scanty ; in the descent, it deepens ; and at the
bottom, it is capable of being ploughed. Between
the Adur and the Ouse is a sub-stratum of red sand,
covered with flint. A narrow vale of great fertility
extends from Brighthelmstone to Emsworth, in-
creasing, by degrees, from one to seven miles in
breadth. Parallel to this, is a stripe of land, ex-
cellent for the turnip husbandry, and provincially
termed shravey ; that is, stoney, the flints almost
covering the surface. Besides the soils, there is a
large tract of marsh-land between the South Downs
and Kent, from which are dug pieces of timber,
often containing a cubic load.
AGRICULTURE, &c.] — On the Weald, one third of
the land is arable ; on the south side of the Downs,
nearly the whole is under the plough. Fallowing
is practised on the stiff soils ; but this custom is
on the decline ; and at the foot of the South Downs,
the best farmers never fallow. Here, as in other
districts, the agricultural osconomy is decided by
the quality of the soil : the standard of the Weald
is, 1. Fallow, 2. Wheat, 3. Oats, and 4. Clover, or
ray-grass, two or three years. A new kind of
wheat, called Chidham wheat, was some time since
discovered by Mr. Wood, of Chidham, who, walking
in his fields, saw a single plant growing in a hedge,
containing thirty ears, in which were 1400 grains :
this seed was soon dispersed over the neighbouring
counties, and is now much cultivated about Guild-
ford. Potatoes are cultivated in the neighbourhood
of Battel and Chichester, where they yield from
400 to 700 bushels per acre, and are chiefly used in
fattening bullocks, or even horses and sheep. Hop
grounds are found in the eastern part of the county.
Rhubarb and opium are successfully cultivated at
Petworth. Irrigation is but little practised in the
western district, and in the eastern not at all ;
marshes, however, situated in the neighbourhood of
rivers, or near tke coast, have of late years been
much improved. The orchards of Sussex are ex-
tensive and fruitful ; and those in the neighbourhood
of Petworth, yield excellent cyder. The manures
chiefly in use are, chalk, lime, marl, soap, wood,
peat, and coal-ashes, pilchards, paring-dust, and
gypsum ; the three first in abundance ; the rest,
from
360
SUSSEX.
from their nature, but partially. The •wheeled-
plough, most commonly used, is the Kentish turn-
wrese •, and Mr. Woods, of Chidham, has invented
a wheeled-plough to be drawn by two horses abreast,
without a driver. The invention of the broad-share,
a tool for clearing land from stubble and weeds, is
disputed between this county and Kent.
CATTLE.] — The characteristics of the Sussex
cattle are thus given by Young : — a deep red colour,
fine hair, and the skin mellow, thin, and soft; a
small head ; a fine horn, thin, clear, and transparent,
running out horizontally, and afterwards turning up
at the tips ; the neck very thin and clean made ; a
small leg ; a straight top and bottom, with round
and springing ribs ; thick chine ; loin, hips, and
rump wide ; shoulder flat ; but the projection of the
point of the shoulder not liked, as the cattle subject
to this defect are usually coarse ; the legs should be
rather short, the carcase large ; the tail should lie
level with the rump. A ridged back-bone, and thin,
and hollow chines, are great defects in this breed. —
In regard to the quantity of milk, the Sussex cows
are not to be compared with some other breeds ; but
what they want in that point, they make up in
quality.
The making of butter and cheese is not much
attended to where the supply of milk is small, and
where the rearing of young stock is much more
profitable. The calving season is in January, twelve
weeks after which the calves are weaned, and turned
to grass for the summer. The oxen used in hus-
bandry are broken in at two years and a half old ;
Ih'en regularly employed in labour for three or four
years ; after which they are fattened and sold to the
marsh graziers. The merits of the South Down
sheep are so generally acknowledged, that the breed
has been gradually received, both in the eastern and
western parts of the kingdom. The genuine South
* Ajuga Chumxpitys. Ground-pine ; in corn-fields, near
Tunbridge Wells.
Alisma Damasonium. Star-headed Water}
Plantain; f onbogsonWater-
ranunculoidet. Lesser Water £ down Forest.
Planiain; )
Allhcca officinalis. Marsh Mallow ; by the sides of ditches in
the marshes, between Winchelsea and Rye.
Anthoceros punctatus. Spotted Anthoceros ; in Farnhurst
Lane.
Antirrhinum Lintiria P Peloria. A variety of common Toad-
flax ; on a bank, near Withyam.
• minus. Least Toad flax ; > in corn-
spurium. Round-leaved Toad-flax ; $ fields.
Aquilegia vulgaris. Columbines ; near Tnnbridge Wells,
high rocks, and elsewhere.
Aspcrugo pruciimbens. Small Wild Bugloss, Great Goose
Grass, or German Madwort ; near Boxloy.
Asplaiium lanccolatum. Spear Maiden-hair ; on a rock, south
of the High rocks, near Tunbridge Wells.
marinum. Sea Maiden-hair, or Fern ; about the
castle, at Hastings.
Ruta muraria. Whi'te Maiden-hair, or Wall Rue;
near TnrfbrMge Wells, and Maxfield.
Down sheep are hornless, with a small head, and
clear neck ; heavier in the hinder, than in the fore-
quarter ; shoulders, wide ; breast, open and deep ;
legs, far apart ; barrel, round and straight ; and the
loin and hips, broad. Grey, speckled, and mottled
faces and legs are most common. The excellence
of their flesh and wool is not surpassed by any other
in the island ; but their principal, and most decided
point of superiority, is the smallness of the quantity
of food which they require. Mr Young calculates
that if the South Downs comprehend a tract of
150,000 acres, the number of sheep may be esti-
mated at 270,000 in summer, and 220,000 in winter ;
a rate of stocking, not exceeded in anv part of
England. Thorough-bred wethers of three years
old may be made to weigh 30lbs. per quarter, and
the average weight of each fleece may be computed
at 2|lbs. A few sheep of other breeds are keep in
Sussex, as the Romney, Hampshire, Dorset, Wilt-
shire, and Somerset. The total number, including
the native breed, may be estimated at 450,000.
Neither the horses nor the hogs are remarkable.
Rabbits increase prodigiously on the wastes of this
county, whence large supplies are sent to London.
The poultry are remarkable for their size : a full
grown fowl weighing seven pounds, and sometimes
more. On the Weald are many ponds stocked with
carp, tench, eels, and pike.
WOODS, WASTE LANDS, &c.] — Before the Con-
quest, this county was one entire forest, and the
quantity of woodland, which it at present contains,
cannot be less than 170,000, or 180,000 acres. The
wastes are of considerable extent, occupying much
of the northern side of the county, and are com-
puted at 1 10,000 acres.
PLANTS.] — The plants, most entitled to notice in
this county, are enumerated in the note below. *
MINERALS AND FOSSILS.] — In the eastern parts of
the
Asplenium Trichomanes. English Black Maiden-hair ; near
Tunbridge Wells.
Atropa Belladonna. Deadly Nightshade, or Dwale ; in South-
wood, near Haughton, and in the chalk pits
adjoining.
Bartramia Pomiformis. Apple Bartramia ; on rocks, near
Tunbridge Wells.
Brasiica orientalis. Perfoliate Cabbage ; in hedges, near
Godstone and Marshfield.
Bromus erectus. Upright Brome Grass ; near Tunbridge
Wells.
Bryum turbinatum. Pear-shaped Bryuin j on Rooks-hill, at
Godwood.
Buxbaumia foliosa. , Leafy Buxbanmia ; on Harrison's rocks,
and Bridge rocks, near Tunbridge Wells.
Bromus squarrosus. Corn Brome Grass ; in fields, near
Marshfield.
Bupleurum tcnuissimum. The Least Hare's-ear ; on the shore
at Pelt, by the brook which runs by the
Castle at Hastings, and near Worthing.
Campanula hederacea. Tender Ivy-leaved Bell Flower, near
Bayly, Marshfield, and elsewhere.
Ctirditus pratensis. Meadow Thistle ; on Waterdown Forest,
and elsewhere.
Cares
SUSSEX.
3G1
the Weald, are found all sorts of lime-stone. Sus-
•ex marble is excellent for building and paving, and
Cafex lavigata. Smooth-stalked beaked Carex ; in a wood
between Tunbridge Wells and 'Frant.
Ceratopkyllum submersum. Unarmed horned 1'ondwecd ; in
the road from Chichcsti;r to Selsea, in the
ditches.
Chclidonium glaucium. Yellow-horned Poppy ; on the sea-
shore.
Cheiranthut erysimoidei. Wild Wall-flower ; near East
Grinstead.
Cineraria palustri.t. Marsh Fleabane ; in marshes.
Clavaria ophioglossoides. Black Clavavia ; on Rooks hill, at
Goodwood.
Cochkaria Danica. Danish Scurvy Grass ; at Cock Rush.
Conferva eloitgata. Pointed Conierva ; on. submarine rocks
and stones, common.
• gelatinnsa. Frog Spawn Conferva ; in a well at
Chichester. -v.rjd^U .«l<l.l
pellucida. Transparent Conferva ; on submarine
rocks and stones.
tubulosa. Hollow Conferva; on Bognor rocks, and
at Bracklesham and Cockbush.
vagabunda'. Spreading Conferva ; in ditches and
lakes, in Selsea island.
Cmvullaria majalis. Lily of the Valley ; on Harrison's rocks,
near Tmibriilge Wells.
Crambe maritime*. Sea Colewort ; near Worthing and Hast-
ings,
Crata-gui Aria. White Ream-tree ; in the woods on the sides
of the Downs.
CynoglosSum sylvalictim. Green Hounds-tongue ; near Tun-
bridge Wells.
Dentaria Bulbifera. Coralwort ; near Tunbridge Wells, high
rocks.
Dianthus prolifer. Limewort ; in Selsea island.
Dicranum subulatum. Awl-leaved Fork-moss ; near Little
Hampton.
Droscra longifolia. Long-leaved Sun-dew, or Rosafolis ; in
the Weald brooks.
Empetrum Nigrum. Hlack-berried Heath ; Crow, or Crake-
berries ; on the brinks of the peat pits, near
the Weald brooks.
Epilobium angustifolium. Rose-bay Willow-herb; in Charlton
Forest, and near Lamberlmrst.
Eriophorum vaginatum. Hare's-tail Rush ; in the Weald
brook?.
Euphorbia Esula. Leafy-branched Spurge ; at Slingfnld.
Fcstuca uniglumis. Single-husked Fescue Grass ; on the sandy
sea-shore.
Frankenia lievis. Smooth Sea Heath ; in sea marshes of a
clay soil, frequent.
Frankenia pukerulentn. Broad-leaved Sea-heath ; on the
coast, between 'Bognor and Brighthelmstone.
t'ucus abrotanifolius. Jointed Fucui ; on the coast.
confervoides. A variety of Watery Fucus ; in subma-
rine rocks and stones. .<!!;;•);
amphibiui. Upright Fucus ; in the marshes, near Selsea
island.
canuliculatus. Furrowed Fnxus; at Delkey.
mucronatus. Bearded Fucus ; on submarine rocks and
stones on the coast.
herbaceus. Herbaceous Fucus; on, submarine rocks
and stones, among the eastings up of the sea,
near Hastings. ^ ,K«.y,
finastroides. Black Fucus, or Sea Pine; on submarine
rocks, and stones on the shore, plentiful lyvnj"\
• pinnutus. Pinnated Fucus ; on submarine rocks and
stones, common.
obtutus. Obtuse Fucus ; on sea rocks and stones, near
Hastings.
VOL. jv. — no. 167.
is much used for ornamental chimney-pieces : when
burned it is superior, as a manure, to chalk. The
archbishop's
• " . .. . ..._i
Fucus sinuosut. Reddish Fucus ; in the marshes, near Selsea
island.
- - subfuscus. Brownish Fucus; in the sea at Hustings.
Futiiaria claviculata. Climbing Fumitory ; on the beach at
Cockbush.
Galittm cruciatum. 'Crosswort ; between Tunbridge Weil*
and Withvam, and elsewhere.
Gentiana Pneumonanthe. Calathian Violet ; on the sides of bogs,
between Tuubridge Wells, and Groombridge.
Geranium maritimum. Sea Crane's-bill ; near Bognor rocks,
and at Brackelsham.
--- moscha.tu.rn. Musked Cranes-bill, or Muscovy ;
near Arundel Castle, plentifully.
--- robertianum P. A variety of Herb Robert ; near
Hastings.
Geum rivale. .Water Avens ; in a bog, a mile on this side
Chichester.
Gnaplialium luteo-album. Jersey .Cudweed ; found a mile
above the first of Bognor rocks.
Gymnostomum ostman. Curve-beaked Gymnostomum ; on
Rook's hill, at Goodwood.
IJelleborus fatidus. Great Bastard Rlack Hellebore, Bears-
foot, or Setterwort ; upon the Downs towards
Chichester, and in Southwood, near Haiighton.
— ! -- viridis. Wild Black. Hellebore ; about Arundel
Castle.. .
ffieracium, murflrum,. .French, or Golden. Lungwort ; at
Cuckfield. ,
Hippocrcpis comosa. Tufted Horseshoe Vetch ; on the sides
of the Downs.
Hymcnophyllum tuttbridgense. Tunbridge Filmy-leaved Fern ;
on rocks, nearTunbridge Wells and Cockbush.
flypericum clodcs. Marsh St. Peter's-wort ; found commonly
in the brooks of the Wealds.
Hypnum crispum. Curled Hypnum ;.
- lucens. Shining Hypm.m ;
- ; — - scerpoides* Scorpion Hypnum ;
Junar Forsteri. Narrow-leaved Harry Rush
- sylvaticus. Wood Rush ; Wells
Jungermannia ciliaris. Fern Jungerinannia ; in ditches at
Chichester, and near Tunbridge Wells.
)
; }
Rush ; (
I
• multifida. Multifid Jungermannia ;~)
• nemorosa. Wood Jungermaiuiia ; j
• quinqitcdfntata. Forked Jungcr- '
mannia ;
• rupestris. Rock Jungermannia ; •
• tribolata. Trifid Jungermannia; J
• vttietilpsa. Straggling Jungermannia ;
Slingfold.
Wells.
about
Latliyrus sylvcstris. Narrow-leaved Pease Everlasting ; near
Poynings, a village on the Downs, and in a
lane near Climping, not far from Arundel.
Leormrus Cardiaca. Motherwort ; in Selsea island.
Lcpidium lalif'olium. Dittander, or Pepperwort ; by the river
side at Arundel.
Lichen articulatus. Jointed Liverwort; in Charlton Forest,
and nearTunbridge Wells.
calicaris. Channeled Liverwort ; about Slingford, and
in Charlton Forest.
• i • centrifugus. Spreacline Lichen;")
- coccineus. Scarlet Lichen ;
- ericetorum. Heath Lichen ; ( on rocks, near
— - Jwsifa- Brittle Lichen ; : Tuubridge Wells.
- horizontalis. Horizontal Lichen ; j
- jubatus. Wirg Lichen ; - J
— — tate-rircns; Green Liverwort; near Wakehurst.
- Oederi. Oeder's. Lichen ; on rocks, near Tunbridge
4 V
.r»17,
^
Lichen
302
SUSSEX.
1 UIJUIIUUC II Clia.
Linum Angustifolium. farrow-leaved Wild Flax ; on
near Hastings, and in a field at Pelt, o
archbishop's chair, in Canterbury cathedral, is form-
ed of one entire piece of this stone. The lime-stone
is accounted the best in the kingdom ; and the iron-
stone is so abundant as to occasion sterility in the
soil. Chalk is found on a range of hills near the
sea, on which marl is also dug. Fuller's-earth is
found at Tilltngton ; and red-ochre at Graffham,
Chidham, and other places.
RIVERS, CANALS, &c.]— The rivers of Sussex,
Lichen resitpinettus. Livid Lichenoides ; on pebbles, near the
shore in Selsea island.
i scrobiculatus. Warty Lichen ; on rocks, near Tun-
bridge Wells.
tartareui. Tartareous Lichen ; on rocks, near Tun-
bridge Wells.
, trapeziformis. Trapeziform Lichen ; on heaths, near
Tunbridse Wells.
rocks
on the
left hand of the lane that leads to the sea,
plentifully.
Lonicera Xylosteum. Upright Honeysuckle ; in a wood called
the Hackett's, to the East of Houghton, near
Arundel.
Lotus difusus. Slender Birds-foot Trefoil ; amongst the rocks,
near Hastings Castle.
Lycoperdon cervinum. Branny Puff-ball ; in Charlton Forest.
Lijcopodium clavatum. Common Club-moss ;) near Tunbridl,e
• inundatum. Marsh Club-moss ; V Woiu
Selago. Fir Club-moss ; )
Marrubium vulgare. White Horchound ; about Brighthelm-
stone, and elsewhere.
Medicago sativa. Lucern ; about Brighthelmstone.
Altntha syhestris. Long-leaved Horsemint ; near a small
spring, below Arundel Castle.
Mcrcurialis annua. French Mercury ; about Rye.
Milium lendigerum. Panick Meadow Grass ; in a corn-field,
near Tunbridge Wells high rocks.
ifi/rica Gale. Goule, Sweet Willow, or Dutch Myrtle ; by
the Weald brooks.
Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus. Daffodil ; near Tunbridge Wells
high rocks.
Narthccium ossifragum. Lancashire Asphodel ; on bogs, near
Tunbridge Wells.
Ot nanthe crocata. Hemlock Dropwort ; in watery ditches
and rivulets, frequent.
Ophrys muscifera /3. A variety of Fly Orchis; in Cliarllon
Forest.
Ornithogalum pyrenaicum. Spiked Star of Bethlehem, with
a greenish flower ; in a meadow on the left
hand of a farm, half a mile from Cliichester
south gate, plentifully.
Osmunda regalis. Flowering Fern, or Osmund Royal ; in
the Weald brooks, in a vast bog, north of
' Amberley Castle, and on Harrison's rocks,
near Tunbridge Wells.
Pedicularis palustris (fiore albo). Marsh Lousewort, with
a white flower ; in the boggy ground, below
Pewdean.
Peucedanum o.fficinale. Hog's Fennel, Sulnhurwort, or
Harestrong ; in the marsh ditches, about
Shoreham.
Phyteuma orbicularis. Horned Rampions, with a round head,
or spike of flowers ; on the Downs.
PismH maritimwn. Sea Pease ; near Hastings.
Polypodium Oreopteris, Heath Polypody ; near Tiwbridge
Wells.
1 Thelypteris. Marsh Polypody ; near Tunbridge
Wells. '
Pttris aquilirta ft. A variety of Female Fern, or Brakes ; on
the rocks by the sea side, where it is sometimes
dashed with salt wnter.
which all rise and have their courses within the
boundaries of that county, are insignificant streams
when compared with the other rivers of the island ;
but they are stored with fish, and some of them are
navigable. The principal are -.— the Lavant, which
rises near Dean, and, passing Chichester, becomes
navigable near its mouth, where are bred lobsters of
peculiar excellence ; Arun, which rises in St. Leo-
nard's Forest, passes Arundel, and falls into the sea
Pyroln rotundifolia Common Winter Green ; in Charlton
Forest.
Ranunculus Lingua. Upright Crowfoot ; in the lane from
Hastings to Fairlight.
Ilhamnus Frangula. The Black Bearing Alder ; in a wood
called Old Park, in Barcomb.
Riccia Jiuitans. Floate Riccia ; in ditches, at Chichester.
Rubin peregrina. Wild Madder ; in Southwood, near Plough-
ton.
Rubus idaus. Basberry-bush, Framboise, or Hindberry ; in
the woods, near the Weald brooks.
Ruscus aculeatus. Knee Holly, or Butcher's-broom ; in
almost every wood.
Salis argentea. Sand Willow; on the Forest, near Tunbridee
Wells.
rosmarinifolia. Rose-mary-leaved Willow ; in Bridge
Park, near Tunbridge Wells.
Schcenus albus. White-headed Bog-rush; on bogs, on Ash-
down Forest.
ScutcUaria minor. Lesser Scullcap ; on bogs, near Tunbridee
Wells. ,
Stdum Anglicum. Mountain Stonecrop ; on the coast, near
•Brakelsham, plentifully.
Scrapias grandiftora. White flowered Bastard Hellebore ; in
the beach woods, plentifully.
-— — latifolia. Common Helleborine ; on Harrison's rocks',
near Tunbridge Wells.
Smyrnium olusatrum. Alexanders ; about Arundel Castle,
plentifully.
Sorbus aticuparia The Quicken Tree, or Mountain Ash ; in
the bog woods, on the north side of the Weald
brooks, plentifully.
Spluchnum ampullaceuin Purple Bottle-moss ; on a bog be-
tween Tunbridge Wells and Groombridge.
Tamnrix gallica. Tamarisk ; on a rock, East of Hastings.
Teucrium chamadrys. Germander ; on the ruins of Win-
chelsea Castle.
Tormentillareptans. Creeping Tormentil ; between Tunbridee
Wells and Frant.
Trifolium arvense $. A variety of Hare's-foot Trefoil ; at
Brakelsham.
scalrum. Rough Trefoil; on the shore, near Little
Hampton.
Triticum loliaceum. Dwarf Sea Wheat-grass ; near the rocks
at Hastings Castle.
Ulva articulatu. Jointed Laver; on submarine rocks and
stones, frequent.
dichotoma. Grass-leaved Laver ; on submarine rocks and
stones.
incrassata. Thick Laver; in ponds and ditches, near
Chichester, and in Selsea island, plentifully.
Vaccinium Oxycocus. Cranberries, Mossberries, or Moor-
berries ; in the Weald brooks, on the sides of
the turf-pits.
Vcrbascum Bluttariu. Yellow Moth Mullein ; on the wall
of Amberley church-yard.
Veronica montana. Stalked Speedwell ; at Cuckfield.
lactea. Pale Violet ; on the sides of a bog near Eridge
rocks, not far from Tunbridge \V ells.
palustris. Marsh Violet; in a boggy meadow, East of
the Weald brooks.
at
SUSSEX.
363
at Little Hampton, and is famous for its mullets,
trout, and eels ; the Adur, otherwise the Seeding,
which also rises in St. Leonard's Forest, passes
Stegning, Bramber, and Shoreham, and falls into
the sea, near Brighthelmstone ; the Ouse, formed
by the confluence of two streams near Cuckfield,
where it becomes navigable, then flows past Lewes,
and falls into the sea at Newhaven ; the Rother,
which has its source at Rotherfield, and runs
eastward to the borders of Kent ; where, having
formed the island of Oxney, it becomes an sestuary,
and falls into the sea, near Rye. The navigation of
the Arun has been extended as far as Newbridge, at
an expence of 21,OOQ/. ; the Rother, a branch of the
same river, has been made navigable to Midhurst,
and, by a collateral cut, to Petworth. Some years
since, a plan was formed for connecting the Arun
with the Wey, the estimated expence of which was
7J,000/. ; and a plan has been proposed for cutting
a canal from Newbridge, on the Rother, to Hor-
sham, and thence to the rail-way at Mersham.
ROADS.] — The turnpike-roads of this county are,
in general, good, being formed of whin-stone, or
Kentish rag-stone ; except in the eastern parts,
where they are narrow and sandy. The roads of
the Weald, owing to the clayey nature of the soil,
and the neighbourhood of woods, are bad.
ETYMOLOGY, GENERAL HISTORY, &c.] — The word
Sussex is evidently a corruption of the ancient
Saxon name, " Suthsex," signifying the country of
the South Saxons. — At the descent of the Romans,
what is now called Sussex, formed a part of the terri-
tory of the Regni, noticed in our account of Surrey ;
but it is nearly certain, that this part of the island
was never visited by Ca?sar, and that its reduction
was reserved for Flavius Vespasian, who was com-
missioned by Claudius, about A. D. 47, to establish
the Roman dominion in the maritime provinces of
this island. Having accomplished this, he fixed his
head-quarters at the place now called Chichester.
The site of his encampment is still apparent on the
Broile, near that city. He appointed Cogidubnus
governor of the Regni, and honoured him with the
titles of king, friend, and ally, of the Roman people.
It was in the year 450, that the first Saxon force,
under Hengist and Horsa, arrived in Britain. In
477, another chieftain, named Ella, landed with his
three sons, and a considerable number of followers at
West Wittering, a village about eight miles south-
west of Chichester. Ella soon made himself master
of the adjacent coast ; but finding himself too weak
to penetrate into the country, he sent home for suc-
cours, which arrived in such numbers, as enabled
him to undertake the siege of the capital of the Regni.
The city was at length taken by assault ; and Ella,
for the obstinate defence of the inhabitants, ordered
them all to be put to the sword. The rest of the dis-
trict immediately submitted ; Ella assumed the title of
King of the South Saxons ; and hence this province
received the appellation of Sud-sex, or Sussex.
On the death of Hengist, he was chosen as the
head of the Saxon confederacy, which he continued
to enjoy till his decease, in 504, or 505. Cissa, his
youngest, and only surviving son, succeeded him.
Of a pacific disposition, he cultivated the arts of
peace, and employed his time and treasure in re-
building, and improving his capital, to which he gavo
the appellation of Cissacester, after his own name.
In 050, we find Adelwalch, or Ethelwald, on the
throne of Sussex. He was attacked, vanquished,
and taken prisoner, by Wolphere, King of Mercia ;
but having at the court of the latter embraced the
Christian religion, he was reinstated in his domi-
nions. Cead walla, a prince of the royal blood of
Wessex, having acquired great popularity and in-
fluence among his countrymen, sought to usurp the
supreme authority ; but his designs having been
timely discovered and frustrated, he was obliged to
quit the kingdom. He consequently fled to the
forest of Anderida, now the Weald of Sussex,
where he subsisted for sometime by heading a band
of freebooters. Adelwalch then attacked and ex-
pelled him. Sometime afterwards Ceadwalla under-
took an unsuccessful expedition against Kent ; but,
in his retreat, he again met Adelwalch, whom he
defeated and killed. Berthun and Anthun, two
South Saxon nobles, rallied their countrymen, and
compelled the invader to retire with great loss.
Soon afterwards the King of Wessex died, and
Ceadwalla having found means to mount the vacant
throne, prepared to renew the war with the South
Saxons. He accordingly again entered their country
with a strong army. Berthun and Anthun made
the best opposition they were able ; but the former
being slain in battle, their forces were dispersed,
and the whole province was miserably ravaged.
Ceadwalla, however, was so much employed in
wars with Kent, that he was obliged to leave to his
successor the complete subjugation of the South
Saxon monarchy. After this event no mention is
made of this province till, in 803, Egbert, King of
Wessex, annexed it to his dominions.
On the Norman invasion Sussex shared the fate
of the rest of the kingdom, and was parcelled out
by the Conqueror among some of his principal fol-
lowers.
Numerous Roman remains have been discover-
ed in this county. The Regnum of Antoninus is
believed to have occupied the site of the present city
of Chichester ; and several eminent antiquaries have
considered Midhurst as the Mida, and East Bourn*
as the Anderisio, or Anderida of the same people.
Respecting the Mantantonis, or Mutuantonis, which
must also be sought in Sussex, writers are not
agreed ; but it was most probably at Lewes. — Tho
many ancient camps still to be seen on the Downs
are an eridence that scarcely any part escaped being
a scene of war. Near Chichester, we find the Broile,
on the west side of the city, about half a mile in
length, of an oblong figure, with a single ditch and a
strong rampart. At the distance of a mile and a
half, is Gonshill, of the same form as the preceding ;
and about three miles northward, on Saint Roche's
hill, is a circular encampment, the diameter exceed-
ing
3G4
SUSSEX.
ing a quarter of a mile, whence it is inferred to have
been a work of the Danes. On the northern brow
of the Downs, Chenkbury, two miles west of Steyn-
ing, is circular, its circumference being about a
quarter of a mile. At the distance of eight miles
from Chenkbury, is a large camp, of an oval form,
accessible at one narrow neck only, fortified with a
deep broad ditch and a- high bank. Wolste.nbury,
on a hill projecting beyond the rest of the Downs
like a bastion, is nearly circular, and about a fur-
long in diameter. Ditchling, three miles from
Wolstenbury, occupying the highest hill in that
quarter, is nearly square, about sixty rods in length.
A mile and a half from Lewes, on Mount Cabnrn, is
the last of these camps on the northern edge of the
Downs. It is round, scarcely three furlongs in cir-
cuit ; the ditch very broad end deep, and the rampart
within of considerable height. About a quarter of
a mile westward of this is another strong work much
larger. The camps on the southern border of the
Downs are, St. Rook's ; High Down, a small square,
four miles eastward of Arundel ; Cissbury, four miles
south-west of Steyning. In the middle of the
Downs is Hollingbury, two miles north of Brighton :
it is a square, the porta still remaining, and con-
tains about five acres. A mile east of the same
place, on the top of a hill near the sea, is a camp,
which has a triple ditch and bank. In the parish of
Tellescomb, above five miles from the last, are two
camps, both imperfect. At Newhaven, on the point
of a hill whioh overlooks the harbour's mouth from
the west, is a fortification called ' The Castle ;' the
banks are very high ; the shape near half an oval,
containing about six acres, but formerly probably
more. Near a mile east of Seaford is another work
also known by the name of The Castle, bounded by
the cliff on the south ; of a semicircular form ; the
trench and rampart large, and inclosing twelve acres.
Three miles east of Cuckraere Haven, near Burling
Gap, is the last, inclosing a hill of a half oval shape ;
the works have the same figure and measure, about
three quarters of a mile in circuit. — The roads from
Portsmouth, Midhurst, and Arundel, to Chichester,
are generally considered to be of Roman construc-
tion. From the last mentioned city the Roman
road, commonly called the Stane Street, proceeded
in a north eastern direction towards Dorking in
Surrey, and may slill be traced in its progress in
many parts of Sussex.
The South Saxons were amongst the last people
of the heptarchy to embrace the truths of the Chris-
tion religion. Wilfrid, Archbishop of York, having,
for his turbulent opposition to Egl'rid king of North-
umberland, and for his unwarrantable appeal to the
Roman pontiff, been exiled from the dominions of
that monarch, in vain sought an asylum in Mercia
and Wessex. At length he applied to Adelwalch,
who permitted him to reside in his dominions, on
condition that he should use the utmost diligence to
convert the inhabitants to the Christian faith. The
king appointed Wilfrid to be their bishop, assigning
the peninsula of Selsea for his abode, and that and
other lands for the support of himself and those by
whom he was accompanied. On the death of Adel-
walch, Ceadwalla confirmed to Wilfrid the grant
of the peninsula of Selsea, where he founded a monas-
tery. On the death of Egfrid, King of Northum-
berland, he returned about the year 685 to that
country, where he found means to obtain his rein-
statement in the see of York. After his departure,
this see was governed by the Bishops of Winchester
till 711, when Eadbert, Abbot of Selsea, was ap-
pointed Bishop of the South Saxons. During more
than three succeeding centuries the episcopate of Sel-
sea presents only a barren catalogue of names, till the
reign of the Conqueror, by whose command the
residence of the bishops was transferred from Selsea
to Chichester, about the year 1082 ; since which
period, the mitre of Chichester has been transmitted
through a long line of distinguished prelates.
Civn, AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS, &c.] — The
general division of Sussex is into rapes, a division
peculiar to this county. These rapes, each of which
is said to have had its peculiar castle, river, and
forest, are Chichester, Arundel, and Bramber, form-
ing the western ; and Lewes, Pevensey, and Hast-
ings, the eastern portion. The rapes are subdivided
into sixty-five hundreds, and comprehend 312
parishes, and three parts of parishes. The county
lias 13 petty sessions, and 76 acting magistrates.
It is in the diocese of Chichester, and province of
Canterbury ; and it is ecclesiastically divided into
the two archdeaconries of Chiehester and Lewes.
To the former belong the deaneries of Chichester,
Arundel, Boxgrove, Midhurst, Storrington, and
Pagham ; and to the latter those of Dallington,
Hastings, Lewes, Pevensey, and South Mailing ;
but All Saints, Chichester, and all the parishes in
the deaneries of Paghan and South Mailing, are
peculiars of the Archbishop of Canterbury.
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.] — Sussex re-
turns 28 members to parliament ; 2 for the county,
2 for the city of Chichester, and 2 for each of the
boroughs named under the succeeding head.
MARKET TOWNS, BOUOUGIIS, &c.]— The following
are the market towns and boroughs of Sussex.
Population.
Towns, <fyc. Market Days 1801 1811
* Arundel Thursday and Saturday 1855 2 1 IS
•Bramber 91 95
Brighton Thursday 7339 12012
Chichester Wednesday and Saturday.... 4744 6425
Cuckfield Fnday 1693 2088
*Grinstead Thursday 2659 2804
HaiUham Wednesday 897 1029
*Ilastin&s Wednesday and Saturday 3082 3S4S
*Horsluim Saturday 3201 3839
* Lewes j.... Saturday 3309 0221
*Midluirst Thursday 1073 1256
Petworlh Wednesday 2264 2459
*Rye Wednesday and Saturday.... 2187 2681
» Seaford Saturday 847 1001
*Shoreham Saturday 799 770
*Steyning Wednesday and Friday 1174 1210
*Winchelsea Saturday 627 652
* The places, to live names of which stars are prefixed, are
Boroughs.
MANUFACTURES.
SUSSEX,
MANCFACTDRES.] — The manufactures of Sussex
are not of great importance ; but charcoal, gun-
powder, paper, potash, soap, bricks, blankets,
sacks, &c. are made, though not extensively, in
different parts of the county.
FAIRS.] — ddversean — September 12, cattle and
sheep.
Alfriston — May 12, November 30, pedlary.
Angmcring — July 30, pedlary.
Ardingley—Mti-y 30, pedlary.
Arutidet— May 14, cattle and hogs. August 21,
hogs, cattle, and sheep. September 25, cattle and
sheep. December 17, cattle, pedlary, &c. Second
Tuesday in every month, cattle.
Ashiugton — June 29, July 21, sheep, cattle, and
goods of all sorts ; the last a statute-day for hiring
servants.
Ashunl — October 16.
Balcomb — June 4, pedlary.
Battel — Whit Monday, November 22, cattle and
pedlary, Second Tuesday in every month, cattle.
Beck/ey — Easter Thursday, December 26, cattle
and pedlary.
Jieeding — July 21, pedlary.
Billing/Hint — Whit Monday, Augusts, horses,
tiorned cattle, and sheep. October 10, horned cattle.
October 20, horses and horned cattle. Second
Wednesday in every month, cattle, &c.
Bines Green — June 12, pedlary.
B/ackboys — October 6, pedlary.
Bodiham — June 6, cattle and pedlary.
Bolney — May 17, Dec. 11, cattle and pedlary.
Boreham Street — September 21.
Brede — Easter Tuesday, cattle and pedlary.
Bright hetmstone — Holy Thursday, September 4,
pedlary.
Brigfitliug — First Monday after Thomas a Becket,
July 7.
Broadwater — June 22, October 30, horned cattle,
«heep, and horses.
Burzcash — May 12, October 4, cattle and pedlary.
Bunted — July 31, cattle and pedlary.
Catstreet — April 1 4, June 27, cattle and pedlary.
Chailey — June 29, pedlary.
Chelwuod — July 25, pedlary.
Chichester — May 4, Whit Monday, August 5,
horses and horned cattle. October 10, horned cattle.
October 20, horses and horned cattle. Second
Wednesday in every month, cattle, &c.
Clayton — July 5, September 26, cattle and sheep.
Crawley — May 8, September 9, horned cattle.
Crawborough — April 25, horses and horned cattle.
Cross-in- Hand — June 22, November 19, horned
cattle and pedlary.
Cuckfield — May 25, cattle and pedlary. Whit
Thursday, cattle and sheep. September 16, cattle
and sheep. November 29, cattle and pedlary.
Dane-hill — Ascension-day, pedlary.
Dicker^- Ascension -day, cattle and pedlary.
Ditching — April 5, sheep and hogs. October 12
pedlary.
VOL. iv. — NO. 167.
East Bourne— October 10, cattle and pedlary.
East Dean— October 29, pedlars' ware.
East Gritistead — April 21, July 13, horned cattle.
December 11, cattle and pedlary.
Edgdcait — May I, September 4, horses and horned
cattle.
Ewhurst — May 21, August 5, cattle and pedlary.
Fenden — Holy Thursday, pedlary. September 14,
sheep.
Fletchinv — Monday before Whit Sunday, pedlary.
Forrest Row — June 25, pedlars' ware. Nov. 8.
cattle and pedlary.
Franjield — June 24, pedlars' ware.
Gainer Street — August 5, pedlars' ware.
Green — August 12, cattle and sheep. Old Mid-
summer, July 5, sheep and horned cattle.
Guestliitg — May 23, cattle and pedlary.
Hajield— April 14, June 27.
Hartjield— Thursday after Whitsun week, cattle
and pedlary.
hustings— Whit Tuesday, June 26, November 23,
pedlars' ware.
Haylesbam— April 5, horned cattle and pedlary.
June 14, cattle and pedlary.
Henjield — May 4, July 5, August 1, pedlary.
Holdfy —May 9, horned cattle.
Hollington - Second Monday in July, pedlars'
ware.
Hoo — May 1, pedlary.
Hor/ey — November 7, pedlary.
Horsebridge—TA^ 9, September 26, hdrned cattle
and pedlary.
Horsebrtdge Common — Sept. 11, pedlars' ware.
Horsham — April 5, Monday before Whit Sunday,
sheep and lambs. July 18, cattle, sheep, and lambs.
November 27, cattle, and pedlary. Last Tuesday
in every month, cattle, sheep, &c.
Horstead Kayne — Slay 27, September 12, cattle
and pedlery.
Hunt Green — June 3, pedlars' ware.
Hurstpierpoint — May 1, August 10, pedlary, &c.
Inventon — Easter Tuesday, May 29, pedlars'
ware.
Lumberhurst — April 5, May 21, cattle.
Lewes— May 6, horned cattle. Whit Tuesday,
cattle and horses. July 26, wool fair. October 2,
sheep.
St, Leonard's forest— November 17, cattle.
Linfield—'blvj 12, horned cattle and horses.
August 5, cdttle and sheep. October 28, pedlary.
Longbridge near Hails/tarn— July 20, iambs and
pedlary.
Maretfield— Sept. 4, cattle and pedlars' ware, &c.
Maiffield— April 5, cattle and pedlars' ware. May
30, pedlary. Nov. 13, cattle and pedlars' ware.
Midlmrst— April 5, October 29, Whit Tuesday,
all sorts of fat and lean cattle, sheep, hogs, &c.
Netohaven — October 10, pedlars' ware.
Newtek — June 1, cattle and pedlary.
NortJiiam — September 17, pedlars' ware.
Nutley— May 43 cattle and pedlary.
4 z Old
SUSSEX.
Old Tye Common in Hurtfield — May 9, oxen.
Peasemarsh — Thursday after Whitsun week, July
18, pedlary,
Pembury — Whit Tuesday.
Pett, near Hastings — May 27, cattle and pedlary.
July 18, pedlary.
Petzvorth— Holy Thursday, horned cattle. July
29, wool. November 20, sheep and hogs.
Pevensey — July 5, horned cattle and pedlary.
Playden — September 2, pedlars' ware.
Pulborough — Easter Tuesday, pedlary.
Racham — May 20, October 13, horned cattle and
horses.
Riper, near Steyning — August 2, sheep and lambs.
Rotate — September 27, horned cattle and horses.
Roiherjield — June 18, cattle, pedlary, &c. Octo-
ber 20, cattle and pedlars' ware.
Rotherbridge — September 25, pedlars' ware.
jRudgtcick— -Trinity Monday, horned cattle and
sheep.
Rushlake Green, near Tnnbridge Wells— April 22,
October 10, cattle, pedlary, &c.
Rye — Whit Monday, August 10.
Seaford— Marsh 13, July 25, pedlary.
Shoreham — July 25, pedlars' ware.
Sidley— First Monday after June 29, pedlary.
Smiston — September 19, horned cattle and sheep.
Slaugham — Easter Tuesday, pedlary.
Slitiford— Easter Tuesday/pedlars' ware.
Southbourne — March 12, pedlary.
South Hurting — First Wednesday in June, toys.
October 28, sheep and horned cattle.
Southwater — July 8, pedlars' ware.
Southwick — May" 19, pedlary.
Steyning — June 9, cattle and pedlary. September
19, October 10, horned cattle. Second Wednesday
in every month, cattle.
Storringlon — May 12, horned cattle and horses.
November 11, cattle and pedlary. Third Wednes-
day in every month, cattle.
Tarring— April 5, May 29, cattle, &.c. October 2,
pedlary.
Thdkel\(nn~ May 29.
Ticehurst — May 4, October 7, cattle and ped-
lary.
Turner's Hill— Easter Tuesday, October 16, ped-
lars' \fare.
Uctyieid—'May 14, August 29, cattle and pedlars'
ware.
Wudhurst — April 29, November 1, cattle and
pedlary.
Warnham — Whit Tuesday, pedlary.
Warborongh Green — June 24, August 1, cattle
and pedlary.
Wellington— Whit Monday, pedlary.
Westfield — May 18, cattle and pedlary.
Weatham — May 15, September 15, cattle and
pedlary.
Westheatliley — Whit Monday, pedlary.
Wmisfield — July 29, pedlars' ware.
Whitesmith — May 21, horned cattle and horses.
July 3, cattle.
Wilmington— September 17, sheep and pedlary.
Winchelsea—M&y 14, cattle and pedlary.
JVithiam—'S/lay 1, October 10, cattle and pedlary.
Woods Corner — May 25, cattle and pedlary.
Worley Common — Second Wednesday in May,
toys.
POPULATION.] — 'The population of Sussex was,
in the year 1700, 91,400 ; in 1750, 107,400 ; in
1801, 159,311 ; and, iu 1811, 190,083.— Marriages
in this county are as 1 to 129 : births, as 1 to 30 ;
and deaths, as 1 to 55, yearly.
Summary of tlic Population of the County of SUSSEX, as published by Authority of Parliament, in 1811.
RAPES, &c.
\
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
Inhabited.
IS*
A
c
2
pa '
Uninhabited.
Families chiefly
employed in
Agriculture.
is! a
ilii
*4
All other Fami-
lies not comprised
in the two pre-
cedingClasses,
Males.
Females.
Total
of
Persons.
3624
3700
4151
5268
2932
5833
1083
893
20/7
4787
4261
4856
6538
3541
7071
1286
1258
2416
38
31
36
17
14
39
10
23
80
89
233
123
130
56
126
32
29
301
3061
2527
3105
3657
2371
4812
72
112
61
1209
1227
1161
1885
828
1743
803
567
1301
517
-507
590
996
348
516
411
549
1054
12107
11375
12231
17000
9301
18877
2878
2880
5069
2470
12169
11402
11969
17826
9358
19340
3547
3341
6943
24276
22777
24200
34826
18659
38217
6425
6221
12012
2470
City of ChicheSter . .....
Town of Brighthelmsto'iie...
Totals
29561
36014
288
1119
19778
10754
5482
94188
95395
190083
RAPES,
if. --., :
SUSSEX.
3«T7
RAPES, CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
ARUNDEL.] — The rape of Arundel, extending
from north to south across the county, and bounded
on the north, by Surrey ; on the east, by Bramber ;
on the south, by the Channel ; and on the west, by
the rape of Chichester ; contains five hundreds, and
fifty-six parishes.
Amberlcy, situated on the Arun, is remarkable
for its castle, which was founded, in 1368, by Wil-
liam Rede, Bishop of Chich<.'ster, to winch see it
long1 remained annexed. It is at present tho pro-
perty of Lord Selsca, and, excepting a small part,
which lias been made a farm -house, it is in ruins.
The form is rectangular, and, if we may judge
from the remains of an arch within the walls, the
architecture was light and elegant. One of the
apartments contains the portraits of ten kings and
their queens, and the portraitures, in wood, of six
warriors.
At Angmering, the park was formerly the seat of
the ancient family of the Palmers, whose monuments
in the sacristy of the church were removed, in 177-1,
by Sir John Shelley, to Michael Grove.
Arundel, 10 miles E. by N. from Chichester, and
60 S. S. W. from London, pleasantly situated on
an eminence on the river Arun, and consisting of
two principal streets, is governed by a mayor, twelve
burgesses, a steward, and other officers. This place,
which is a borough by prescription, has, since the
30th Edward I. sent two members to parliament.
Of the castle, which stands on the north-east side
of the town, mention is first made in the will of
King Alfred, who bequeathed it with the town to
liis nephew Adhelm. A popular tradition ascribes
the foundation of it to Beris, " a giant of ancient
times,!' in confirmation of which opinion a tower is
still pointed out, called Beris Tower. The Con-
queror gave it to his kinsman, Roger de Mont-
gomery, whom he also created Earl of Arundel,
which title belonged to three persons of this family,
till Robert de Bellesme was outlawed by Henry 1.
for the assistance he gave to that monarch's brother,
Robert. The castle was then settled on Queen
Adeliza, who, after the death of her royal consort,
gave her hand to William de Albini, one of the most
accomplished men of his age. Here the dowager-
queen performed the rites of hospitality towards. the
Empress Maud, in the attempt of that princess to
ascend the throne. The last male heir of the name
of Alhini, died in 1243, when the castle and manor
of Arundel fell to his sister, Isabel, whose husband,
John Fitz-Alan, made the castle his residence, and
assumed the title of Earl of Arundel. The fourth
in descent from him forfeited his life and estates,
in the attempt to ruin the Despensers, favourites of
Edward II. ; but the estates were restored to his
son, whose successor, in the reign of Richard II.,
being accused of a conspiracy to seize the king, and
put to death the lords of the council, was behead-
ed, the king presiding at the execution. His son,
Thomas Fitz-Alan, was reinstated by Henry IV. ;
but, he dying without issue, in 1415, the caslle de-
volved to his cousin, Sir John Fitz-Alan, who laid
claim to, and obtained the title, on which an net was
passed, that the possession of this castle and honour
conferred the dignity of Earl without creation. Tlie
last Fitz-Alan died in the 22d of Elizabeth, leaving
a daughter who married Thomas Howard, Duke
of Norfolk, thus carrying the earldom and estate
into that family, to whom they still belong.
Concerning the true period of the foundation of
this castle, many conjectures have been enter-
tained. On account of the bricks inserted in the
walls of the keep it has been attributed to the
Romans ; but such a proof is not allowed by the
best antiquaries. Its pretensions to the aira of the
Saxon kings are more explicit. The more ancient
parts are the keep or citadel, and the towers which
flank the gate-way, and connect the whole by means
of a sally port. The keep stands upon an artificial
mound, the height of which, from the fosse, is one
hundred and ten feet on one side, and eighty on
the other. Of its external wall, the height is thirty
feet, supported by projecting ribs or buttresses. It
is eight feet thick, with a wall on the inside, guarded
by a parapet as many feet high. The diameter of
the room which is faced with Norman or Caen stone,
is sixty-seven feet by fifty-nine. There are also
Roman bricks placed in the herring-hone fashion,
which is observable in most Saxon buildings. In
the centre is a subterraneous room and passage, and
in a tower attached to the keep, is a well three hun-
dred feet deep. The approach is by a time-worn
staircase, and over a narrow pass commanding the
entrance to the building, which bears the marks of
a portcullis. The more ancient one towards the
east still retains a very rich Saxon door-case. In
the tower above the present entrance, was a small
chapel or oratory, dedicated to St. George. The
tower and gateway facing the base court of the
castle are apparently contemporary with the keep.
The other.towers are built with flint. The dungeons
are on the right and left of the gateway. They
consist of eight wards, protected by a draw-bridge
from the castle moat. The lower wards are very deep,
and partly filled up with rubbish. The foundation
walls of these dungeons are not known, although
efforts have been employed to discover the length
and depth of these frightful abodes. The Empress.
Maud's apartments, are in the tower, above the old
gateway. They consist of three bed-rooins. The
Saxon keep may be justly termed the ivy-mantled
tower, for the walls are literally covered with its
leaves. The late Duke of Norfolk was very partial
to this retired spot. Here are several remarkably
curious owls ; elegant birds, and extremely large ;
some of them measuring across the wings, from
eight to ten feet. Their plumage is particularly
beautiful, and their eyes brilliant. The late Duke
purchased them from North America. There are
many traces of ancient remains about the keep or
tower. The spot where the boilers stood, for the
purpose
368
SUSSEX.
purpose of melting the lead to pour,d©wn upon the
besiegers, and those used for culinary purposes, are
still visible. The marks of cannon balls discharged
against the tower during the siege of the parliamen-
tary forces^ are observable in many places. — The
ground plan of the present castle nearly resembles
that of Windsor Castle, in the exact proportion of
nine to fourteen. When the late Duke of Norfolk
took possession, the castle, was little better than a
heap of ruins. His Grace was destined to restore
it to its original magnificence. The building is of
free-stone, from the quarries in Yorkshire, and those
of a brown cast were carefully selected, in order
that they might assimilate in colour with the old
remains. The new walls have risen upon the ancient
model, and correspond with the old ones in solidity
of fabric, as well as dignity of ornament. An
entire new front of massy stone, which differs mate~
rially from the others, particularly in exhibiting the
insignia of the Howards, mixed with those of their
predecessors, and two colossal figures of liberty and
hospitality, ornament the grand entrance. In raising
this front, the late Duke had the opportunity for
enlarging the mansion, and gaining the space now
occupied on the basement story, by a long range of
servants' offices, including a new kitchen, with two
fire places, bake-house, scullery, the steward's and
housekeeper's rooms, &c. The cellars are of an
immense length. The Duke weekly employed from
100 to 200 labourers, mechanics, and artists, in the
improvement and decorations of this noble edifice,
for upwards of twenty-five years. The arrange-
ments were formed entirely from his own ideas, and
in the progress of the plan, he was exclusively his
own architect. — On the west wing is a beautiful
sculptured basso relievo 'Historical representation of
King Alfred receiving the report of the jury, as
established in his reign. The costume and dra-
peries are finely carved in stone. The interior of
the castle is fitted up with great taste and effect.
The richest mahogany has been used in almost every
decoration. The walls, being more than six feet
thick, form a kind of frame for each window, which
is five feet deep on the inside, and the whole of this
spacious case is lined with mahogany. The window
frames which hold the magnificent plate glass panes,
three feet each in height, are of the same material ;
and the solid mahogany doors are held in cases of the
thickness of the inner walls, perhaps, four feet deep,
all lined with pannels of the richest grain. The
rooms are distinguished by the following names : —
Somerset, Clarencieux, Garter, breakfast - room,
great drawing - room, long dining - room, study,
south-room, mosaic-room, oak-room, Bine Mantle,
Portcullis, Rouge Croix, Rouge Dragon, alcove-
toom, great dining-room, library, Baron's-room. —
At the principal entrance, a beautiful winding stone
staircase, branching to the right and left, and ter-
minating on the landing place, ornamented with
brass railing, covered over with a deep grained
inabogany, leads to the first gallery, which is one
hundred and ninety feet long, and ten feet wide,
with a floor of solid oak. Along this gallery is the
small drawing-room, the architectural ornaments
of which are mahogany, carved and polished. The
walls are covered with a deep rich flock paper.
This room enjoys a delightful view of the river
Arun and a picturesque country. On the right is
the great drawing-room, hung with rich crimson
velvet. Over the fire-places, are suspended two
extraordinary large plate glasses, in deep gold bur-
nished frames. The marble chimney ornaments are
deserving of notice, sculptured with the arms of the
family. The paintings are : — The late Duke's
father, Charles Howard, Duke of Norfolk ; Ber-
nard Howard, the present Duke, above which is a
very ancient portrait of one of the Howards ; over
the door leading to the dining-room, a full length
portrait of Charles Henry Howard, the late Duke j
Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, beheaded on
Tower Hill, June 2, 1573, upon a charge of high
treason, for attempting the enlargement of Mary
Queen of Scots ; Mary Fitz-Alan, Countess of
Arundel, and the last of that family ; Henry Howard,
Duke of Norfolk ; a beautiful historical piece, re-
presenting the Earl of Surrey vindicating himself
before Henry VII. for the part he took in the war,
when that monarch was Duke of Richmond, and
defeated Richard III. at Bosworth Field : Princess
Elizabeth, sister to the young Princes who were
smothered in the Tower, is seen in the back ground,
displaying the red rose as an emblem of the union
of the two houses ; Henry Fitz-Alan, who died at
Brussels ; John, the first Duke of Norfolk of the
Howard family ; Henry, Earl of Surrey, beheaded,
1516, by Henry VIII. ; and Frederick, King of
Bohemia. — The doors of the drawing-room are of
massy mahogany, leading into an anti-chamber, and
thence into the dining-room, formerly the chapel.
At the south end of this room is a large window of
stained glass, of great value, painted by Egginton,
of Birmingham, representing the late Duke and
Duchess, as King Solomon and Queen Sheba, at a
banquet, which gives to the room a splendour and
dignity almost beyond conception. At the opposite
end is an orchestra, and over the door, the subject
of Adam and Eve in Paradise, in imitation of basso
relievo, by Le Brun. — The marshal's bed and dress-
ing-rooms contain a mahogany four-post bedstead,
curiously carved by the late Duke's workmen, with
crimson damask furniture, and crimson hangings to
correspond, mahogany tables, chairs, &c. — The
Prince of Wales's apartments consist of a fine bed
and dressing-room. The bed is supported by eight
posts of beautifully carved mahogany, with rich cut
velvet furniture. The stools and dressing-tables are
covered with the same costly material to correspond,
and the rooms are hung with rich silk tapestry. —
The breakfast-room contains portraits of the late
Duke's mother ; Mary, wife of Edward, Duke
of Norfolk ; and Cardinal Howard ; besides two
paintings by Hogarth, one a scene of Covent Carden
market,
SUSSEX.
market, the other a view of tlie old castle. — The
principal library is 130 feet in length, and it is sup-
posed to be the finest piece of workmanship in Eng-
land, executed by the moderns in the Gothic style.
It is entirely composed of mahogany, exquisitely
veined. The side reading-galleries are supported
by light carved pillars. Another gallery, of the same
dimensions, above the first, divides these apartments
from a range of chambers. At the end of this ex-
tensive gallery is a stained window, by Egginton.
In the centre is a portrait of the late Charles Brooke,
Esq. Somerset Herald, and secretary to the Duke,
as Earl Marshal. Below it are his arms, and above
those of the Norfolk family.
Lord Somerset's, Lord and Lady Surrey's, the
garter - rooms, the blue - rooms, Windsor - rooms,
alcove-room, the mosaic-room, &c. are all neat and
tasteful ; and the principal bedsteads, tables, chairs,
stands, as well as the floors, are made from oak
timber. From this gallery there is a fine oak stair-
case, which leads to the Clarencieux-rooms, and in
one of them the bed of the Empress Maud is still
preserved. At the top of the mansion is a tower,
enjoying an extensive prospect. — The Baron's-hall
is one hundred and fifteen feet in length, by forty-
five in width. The roof is entirely of oak, executed
in a masterly style of workmanship, in the taste of
the fifteenth century. The walls are stuccoed, and
a skirting of mahogany runs along the whole, to
the height of four feet, and a music gallery at the
bottom is completed. The decease of the late Duke
interrupted the finishing of these extensive and vari-
ous improvements ; but the present Duke has since
proceeded with the completion of the Baron's-room ;
in which is the grand stained-glass window, by
Backler, representing King John signing Magna
Charta, from the original picture by James Lons-
dale, Esq. "King John, habited in all the splen-
dour of royalty, surrounded by his -nobles, and the
dignitaries of the church, signs Magna Charta. The
expression of his countenance is that of strong re-
luctance ; his eyes are directed towards Fitzwalter,
(portrait of his Grace the late Duke of Norfolk)
whilst his hand performs the unwilling duty. On
the left of the King, and just behind him, stands
Cardinal Langton, Archbishop of Canterbury, a
mediator between the King and the Barons, but
who administered an oath to the latter never to
desist from their endeavours, until they had obtained
a full concession of their liberties. He is in the act
of stretching out his hand, and addressing himself to
Fitzwalter, as if to temper the sturdy doubts of the
baron into u persuasion of the voluntary acquiescence
of the King in the act required of him. Behind the
Archbishop, stands Almeric, the masterof the knights
templars, (portrait of Captain Morris ;) and still far-
ther to the left, but more advanced, stands the mayor
of London, (portrait of II. C. Combe, Esq.) with
many barons and armed soldiers. At the right of
King John is seen Cardinal Pandolfo, the Pope's
legate, who examines with silent indignation the
VOL. IV.— NO. 167.
Great Charter of English Liberties. Near to Pan-
dolfo, is the Archbishop of Dublin, who turns his
head in conversation with other prelates behind him.
Right before the King, stands the champion of his
country, the sturdy Baron Fitzwalter, habited in
chain armour, the warlike costume of the thirteenth
century. His deportment is erect and noble, his
head uncovered, and the expression of his coun-
tenance inflexible. His determined purpose and
manly dignity form a striking contrast with the inte-
resting countenance and graceful movement of the
page bearing his helmet, (portrait of H. Howard,
Jun. Esq.) Without paying any attention to the
address of the Archbishop of Canterbury, his looks
and his mind seem wholly absorbed in the contem-
plation of the grand object of the assembly. In the
back ground is a view of Runnemede, where the
Great Charter was signed, covered with the tents
of the opposing forces of the King and the Barons."
— This window was begun under the immediate
direction of the late Duke. Besides this fine win-
dow, there are eight large painted glass windows,
representing eight Barons in ancient costume, name-
ly : — the Duke of Norfolk, as Roger Fitzwalter ;
Lord Suffolk, as Roger de Mowbray ; Lord An-
dover, as William de Mowbray ; Henry Charles
Howard, Esq. as Robert Bigod ; Molineux Howard,
Esq. as Henry de Bohun, Earl of Hereford ; Henrj
Howard, Esq. of Crosby, as Hugh de Bigod ;
General Howard, as Robert de Ross ; and the late
Henry Howard, Esq. of Arundel, as Gilbert de
Clare. — The coats of armour worn by the Fitz-
Alans, and the swords which were formerly carried
before the Earl Marshal of England, are exhibited
in the Baron's-room. The following inscription
also appears : —
"CHARLES HOWARD, DUKE OF NORFOLK,
EABL OF ARUNDEL,
in the year of Christ, 1806,
in the 60th year of his age,
dedicated Ihis stone /
To Liberty, asserted by the Barons,
in the reign of John."
In this noble apartment, a great festival took
jdace on the 15th of June, 1815, for celebrating
the centenary of the signature of Magna Charta.
There was a splendid assemblage of nobility and
persons of distinction. Complete suits of ancient
armour, with swords, and spears, forged in ancient
times, and for very different purposes, were either
suspended from, or hung around the walls ; and
every adventitious aid was adopted to give state
and majesty to this celebration of the magnanimous
conduct of the Barons of England. Nearly 800 dis-
tinguished guests sat down. The head of the table
was ornamented with a noble baron of beef, sur-
mounted by the ducal coronet, and the banners of
the illustrious house of Norfolk. A profusion of
the choicest delicacies was every where perceptible
— nothing was wanting to delight the eye, a*.d gratify
the taste. In the evening there was a brilliant ball.
5 A Hi*
370
SUSSEX.
His Grace, dressed in regimentals, opened the ball
with the Marchioness of Stafford, and they were
followed by about fifty couple. Supper was an-
nounced at one o'clock. On the entrance of the
company into the room, the band ot the Sussex
Militia struck up, " Ob, the Roast Beef ot old
England." After supper, dancing was resumed,
and continued until a late hour in the morning,
new chapel, adjoining the north part ot the Baron s-
hall, over the present entrance gate-way, is yet m
an unfinished state. The intention of the late Duke
was to furnish the interior in the antique style ot the
Saxon and Norman places of worship, and to erect
the stalls in the same manner as may be seen in the
chancel of the church, and the chapel of Our Lady
atArundel. ,
The castle occupies a mile in circumference, and
the beautiful domains which surround this magni-
ficent structure, are more than seven miles and a
half in circumference, enclosed with a strong ten
railing The grounds are well laid out, in gardens,
shrubberies, and plantations. — There are three
agreeable towers in the park ; High Ho»,C*ai,
roanding a most elevated prospect ; and Mount
Pleasant, covered with ivy, commanding a beau-
tiful view of the vale of Sussex. The late Duke
built another tower, facing the road to Petwortli
called the White Ways. The park is well stored
with deer. The castle is open to the inspection ot
visitors on the first Sunday in the month alter divine
service, and on every Monday in the year. Adjoin-
ing the park is the beautiful mansion, called Park
House, situated in a valley on the left of the London
road, the residence of II. Molineux, Esq.
The church, situated at the north end of the town
of Arundel, originally belonged to a priory of Bene-
dictines ; and is supposed to have been founded,
soon after the Conquest, by Roger de Montgomery,
Earl of Arundel. It is a handsome Gothic build-
in"- with transepts, from the centre of which rises a
square tower, with a wooden spire, borne monu-
ments of the Earls of Arundel may be seen, and one,
more magnificent than the rest, of alabaster, beneath
which were interred Thomas Fitz-Alan, and Bea-
trice, his countess-, daughter of John, King oi
tu"-al In the chancel, are numerous figures n
hrass, with epitaphs in low Latin, for masters and
fellows of the college, and others. A range oi build
ino-s southward from the church, appear to have
be'en erected on the site of an ancient structure,
perhaps the habitations of the canons when the
church was collegiate. Prior to the Reformation,
Arundel had an hospital, called the Mawn Duu, or
House of God, which was founded in the time ot
Richard II. by Thomas Fitz-Alan, and Beatrice his
countess. Here is a very fine organ, by Gray.
At Bignor, were discovered, a tew years since,
some beautiful remains of Roman architecture, con-
sisting of three mosaic pavements, which seem to
have adorned the like number of apartments in a
Roman villa. The largest, 31 feet by 30, has in the
centre an hexagonal vapour bath, with seats, and a
flue ; and in an adjacent compartiment, the figure
of a Bacchanalian. In the other division of this floor,
which is circular, is a representation of the rape ot
Ganymede. The smallest pavement, 20 feet by 10,
contains no figures. The third, 43 feet by 17, has
the bust of a female, holding in her hand a leafless
branch, emblematical of winter. The colours, which
are white, black, grey, and red, in the borders ; and
in the figures, blue, green, purple, red, white, and
black, are vivid, and the area is filled up with bricks.
Part of the shaft of a column, and other materials
for building, were discovered at. the same time as
were the foundations of the villa, on which has been
raised a building to protect these valuable relics
from injury and decay. The late Mrs. Charlotte
Smith, whose productions are known to every lover
of polite literature, was born at this place, and
closed her valuable life at Tilford, near Farnham, m
October, 1806. Bignor Park was the birth-place
of this lady, and the property of her father, Nicholas
Turner, Esq.
At Burton, in 1740, were discovered some bones,
and the tooth of nn elephant, at the depth of nine
feet Burton Park is the residence of John Bid-
dulph, Esq. A Roman bath was also lately dis-
covered here.
At Duncton also were found, in 1812, the exten-
sive remains of a Roman bath.
At Hardham, in the church-yard of a priory,
founded soon after the Conquest, is an ancient
yew-tree, the trunk of which is 23 feet round, at
the height of four feet from the ground.
Little Hampton, situated at the mouth of the
Arun has, of late years, been frequented for the
purpose of sea-bathing; but the accommodations
are yet upon a limited scale.
Parham, situated at the foot of a lofty hill, 19
interesting chiefly for the old, but beautiful mansion
of Sir Cecil Bisshopp, Bart, seated in a park abound-
iii"- with deer and stately groups of timber,
hall, which is lofty, is decorated with paintings of
wild beasts, birds, game, &c. and the windows, with
subjects from Scripture history. Here are also
several pieces of the best masters, with some por-
traits ; and, at the top of the house, is a gallery
fifty yards long, full of pictures. The church,
which is small, stands in a grove 300 yards from
the house. , .
Petworth, occupying a remarkably salubrious
site, 15 miles N. E. by N. from Cbichester, and
49i S W by S. from London, is well built, but
Without regard to regularity. The church which
is of stone, with a square tower, contains the ashes
of many valiant Percys, Earls of Northumberland,
to whose progenitor, Joscelin, William de Albmi
save this manor, as an appendage of his honour ot
Arundel. In the chapel which covers their re-
mains are no monuments, except two ancient tombs ;
i the one completely defaced, the other bearing the
I headless effigies of a knight, and the figure of a
lady,
SUSSEX.
371
lady, both kneeling. In the centre of the town is a
market-house, which was erected by the Earl of
Egremont, thirty-five years since. Near the church-
yard, is a charity-school, for the education of twenty
boys, and as many girls. An alms-house was found-
ed by the Duchess of Somerset for the accommoda-
tion of twenty widows, who each receive an annual
allowance of twenty pounds. Thompson's Hospital
affords an asylum to six poor men, and the same
number of women, who annually receive ten pounds
each. After the failure of male issue in the Percy
family, this estate devolved by marriage to Charles
Seymour, Uuke of Somerset, and was afterwards
carried by marriage into the Wyndham family, now
invested with the earldom of Egremont. — Petvvorth
House, the seat of the Earl of Egremont, has a
front of free-stone, surmounted by statues, with
which the interior, remarkable for its magnificence,
is also decorated. It also contains many paintings
and antique busts, with some of first-rate excel-
lence. The park is extensive, and either culti-
vated, or stocked with the finest breeds of cattle,
among which arc some Calmuck and Tartar sheep,
distinguished by a member in the place of a tail, of
enormous size, and exquisite taste. Here is like-
wise seen the shawl -goat of Thibet.
BRAMBER.] — The rape of Bramber extends from
north to south, across the county; and is bounded,
on the east, by Lewes ; and on the west, by Arun-
del ; having Surrey on the north ; and the sea on
the south. The ten hundreds, of which it is com-
posed, contain 42 parishes, including the boroughs of
Bramber, Horsham, New Shoreham, and Steyning.
Albourne Place, in the parish of Albourne, for-
merly belonged to the Saxon family of that name,
from whom it descended to the Fagges, and after-
wards, by marriage, to Sir Charles Goring, Bart,
who resides there.
Bramber, 50 miles S. by W. from London, now
a mean village, containing scarcely more than
twenty houses, was once a place of considerable
importance, and even still returns two represen-
tatives to 'parliament, the right of electing being
vested in thirty-six persons paying scot and lot,
and inhabiting houses built on ancient foundations.
The electors are notoriously influenced by the Duke
of Rutland and Lord Calthorpe. Among them, how-
ever, are some men of integrity, as Was gloriously
evinced during the contest of 1786, when a cottager
rejected a proffered bribe of 1000/. The manor be-
longs to the Duke of Norfolk. The castle, of which
some remains exist, belonged, after the Conquest, to
William de Braose, whose last male heir gave his
daughter and estate to Roger de Mowbray. By
the death of the last Mowbray, at the field of Bos-
worth, the estate escheated to the crown, and was
soon afterwards granted to Thomas Lord (!e la
Warre. The fragments of this edifice are enormously
thick, and from the slow progress of decay which
they exhibit, it is almost certain that the castle was
demolished by violence; when, or by whom, history
says not. The church is evidently a Saxon erection,
and having been given to the monastery of Saumur
in France, was, at the suppression of alien priories,
granted by Henry V. to Magdalen College, Oxford,
to which it still belongs. Over the entrance, and on
each side of the tower, arc large circular Saxon
arches; and, at the east end, is another overgrown
with luxuriant ivy.
[Jroadwater was formerly (he head of the barony
of the Lords Camois, who flourished here for several
centuries. On the fiiilureof male issue in this family,
the manor became by marriage the property of Roger
Lewknor, and afterwards, by a similar contract, of
the Mill family. The church, which displays a mix-
ture of the Saxon and the early Norman or pointed
style, contains the richly carved monument of Thomas
Lord de la Warre, who held various offices under
Henry VII. and his successor. Offington, the man-
sion of this family, is a low building of stone, with
two projecting wings ; and is, at present, the pro-
perty and residence of William Margeson, Esq.
At Clapham, is Michel Grove, which has been
the residence of the Shellys, since the reign of
Henry VI. About thirty years since, Sir John
Shelly, Bart, the then possessor, pulled down the
old house, and erected on its site, a magnificent
structure, of cream-coloured brick, the expence of
which is supposed to have amounted to 150,0007.
At Cowiold, in the nave of the church, is a curious
grave-stone, on which is a brass engraving of a
priest, in the attitude of supplication ; the Virgin
and Saviour ; a figure of St. Pancras, trampling on
the emblems of war, and exalting those of peace;
and St. Thomas of Canterbury. There are besides
several Latin inscriptions, which import that this
heap of earth covers the bones of Thomas Neloud ;
but the date is obliterated.
At Findon, near the church, is Findon Place, the
seat of Mrs. Richardson ; and, in the same parish,
is Highden, the mansion of Sir Harry Goring, sur-
rounded with beautiful plantations.
Horsham, 21 miles N. E. from Chichester, and
35| S. S. W. from London, situated on the Adur,
\ in that part of the county which was formerly one
continued forest, is supposed to have derived from
this last circumstance its original appellation, Hurst-
ham. It is a borough by prescription, and has re-
; turned two members to parliament since the reign of
'. Edward I. ; the right of election belonging to those
: persons, about twenty-five in number, who possess
an estate in burgage houses, or burgnge lands.
This town, which is one of the largest in the county,
j is -governed by a steward, two bailiffs, and two con-
stables, all annually chosen at the eourt-leet of the
| manor, which belongs to the Duke of Norfolk. The
church, which has 'a lolly spire covered with lead
and slate, contains an altar-tomb, upon which re-
poses the figure of a man in armour, with his arms
• crossed on his breast, a dagger at his side, and his
feet resting on a dog. No inscription or other notice
designates the occupant. Another large altar-tomb,
of
372
SUSSEX.
of Sussex marble, is in the same predicament. A
fine altar monument of white marble supports the
effigies of Elizabeth, wife of Thomas Delves, Esq.
•with the date of her decease, 1654. At the Town
Hall, which was enlarged by the late Duke of Nor-
folk, the assizes are occasionally held. The county
gaol, built with stone from the neighbourhood, on a
plan uniting comfort and security, has a chapel
where prayers are read daily, and a weekly sermon
preached by the chaplain. Here are two free-schools,
and meeting-houses for the Quakers, Methodists,
Baptists, and P^esbf terians ; and, near the town
are barracks, and aviaagazine, in which are kept
30,000 stand of arms. — Hill Place is the property
of the Duke of Norfolk ; Denn Park, of William
Markwick, Esq. ; Springfield, of William Morris,
Esq. ; and Horsliaiu Park, of Robert Hurst, Esq.
At a mile from the town is Cool Hurst, a seat of
the Earl of Galloway.
At Lancing, two bathing-machines are kept, and
some good houses have been erected for the accom-
modation of those persons who prefer privacy to
the bustle of a frequented watering place.
Muntham, a capacious mansion, situated in a park,
was the residence of the late William Frankland,
.Esq. where he carried on those multifarious opera-
tions and designs in art, which have rendered his
name famous. One room was filled with lathes ; a
second, with spinning, winding, and other machines ;
a third, with printing-presses ; and so on with the
rest, which were crowded with time-pieces, electri-
fying machines, optical and other philosophical appa-
ratus, in endless variety. At this gentleman's death,
in 1805, these articles were sold at enormously high
prices, one lathe producing 3000 guineas.
At Seal, are some remains of a Benedictine priory,
founded, in 1075, by William de Braose, and grant-
ed, long afterwards, to Magdalen College, Oxford.
At Shermanbury, is a house called Ewhurst, the
most striking feature of which is an ancient gateway,
built with Caen stone. At this village was horn, in
the seventeentli century, Dr. Thomas Comber, chap-
lain to Charles I. dean of Carlisle, and vice-chan-
cellor of Cambridge.
At Shipley is the mansion of Sir Charles Merrick
Burrell, Bart. Knap Castle, so called from the
neighbourhood of an ancient building bearing that
name, some of the remains of which are still to be
seen. About fifty years since, an ancient thumb-
ring of gold, weighing more than six dwts. with an
engraving of a deer lying under a tree, and an
inscription in Saxon characters, ' Joye sans fiuj was
found near this castle.
Shoreham is the name of two places on the coast,
scarcely half a mile distant from each other, and
distinguished by the appellation of Old and New.
The former, from a town of considerable importance
has become a mean village of about thirty houses,
having no other evidence of its former consequence
than the ruins of its church, which has Saxon win-
dows and arches, and columns with foliated capi-
tals. Here is a handsome bridge of wood over the
Adnr.
New Shoreham, situated on the east side of the
mouth of the Aclur, 23 miles E. from Chichester,
and 55£ S. by W. from London, is a borough by
prescription, having sent two representatives to
parliament since the 26 Edward I. ; but in 1771,
the majority of the electors having been convict-
ed of perjury and corruption, an act was passed
to disfranchise them, and to extend the privilege of
voting to the whole rape, so that the right of suffrage
is now enjoyed by about 1300 freeholders. The
church is a specimen of the mixture of Saxon and
Norman architecture : the ground tier of windows
being formed with circularly arched recesses and
circular heads ; the second, presenting three grand
windows incorporated, wholly in the pointed style,
with arches and architraves of many varieties of
moulding ; and the third tier having one large cir-
cular window with small recesses of various forms
and dimensions. The lofty tower rising from the
centre of the cross which forms the ground section,
consists of two stories, the lower Saxon, the upper
pointed. The east front, which is a beautiful eleva-
tion, finishes with, a pediment. The details of the
interior are remarkable for their elegance, richness,
and diversity. New Shorebam had formerly a priory
of Carmelites, and an hospital. Ship-building is
carried on, and vessels of. 700 tons have been
launched here. The harbour, which is the best on
the coast, is frequented by ships of some burden,
and has a custom-house and officers.
Steyning, 22 miles E. by N. from Chichester, and
49| S. by W. from London, is a borough by pre-
scription, and returns two representatives to par-
liament, who are elected by the inhabitants paying
scot and lot, in number about 115. The town is
governed, and the members are returned by a con-
stable ; chosen at the court-Ieet of the Duke of
Norfolk, who is lord of the manor. This place is
situated at the foot of a hill near the Adur, and
consists of four principal streets. The church,
which has a low heavy tower, is only the relic of a
larger edifice in the Saxon style. The interior
abounds in all that is beautiful in design, and per-
fect in execution. A Free Grammar-School was
founded at Steyning, about the middle of the six-
teenth century, and endowed with lands, producing,
in 1790, about •!()/. per annum, which was then
grossly misapplied. At this place was formerly a
priory of Benedictine monks, appended to the abbey
of the Holy Trinity, at Fecamp. In the church of
this establishment were interred the remains of St.
Cuthman, and of Ethelwolf, father of Alfred the
Great.
Terring was given by Athelstan to Christ Church,
Canterbury, and afterwards held by the Archbishop
of that see. At Salvington, a hamlet of this parish,
was born, in 1584, John Selden, a distinguished
lawyer, antiquary, and patriot, and an elegant
scholar. He was a member of the parliament which
brought
SUSSEX.
373
brought Charles to the block, but actively opposed
the proceedings against that monarch. At his death,
in 1654, his books were added to the collection
which now forms part of the Bodleian Library, at
Oxford ; and, in 1726, bis entire works were pub-
lished in 3 vols. folio.
West Grinsted Park, in the parish of that name,
was purchased, in 1744, with the lordship, by Sir
Merrick Burrell, whose grand-nephew William Bur-
rell, Esq. is the present proprietor.
Wiston was possessed, at an early period, by a
family who thence derived their name, and whose de-
scendants in the female line continued to enjoy it till
the middle of the seventeenth century, when it passed
to Sir John Fagge. Sir Charles Goring, Bart, is
the present proprietor. This place gave birth to
three gentlemen, the sous of Sir Thomas Shirley,
who all attained to great eminence in their several
pursuits. Sir Anthony Shirley, the second son, was
educated at Oxford, and, having embarked in 1593
on a voyage of adventure, took Jamaica. He after-
wards entered into the service of the King of Spain,
where he died. Sir Robert Shirley, having ren-
dered great services to the Emperor of Persia, was
rewarded by that monarch, with the hand of one of
his own relations in marriage. Sir Thomas Shirley,
the eldest son, emulating the fame of his brothers,
betook himself to a sea-faring life, in which he suc-
ceeded, not to the enriching of himself, but to the
honour of his country.
Worthing, which was, a few years since, an obscure
village, has, from the natural advantages which it
enjoys, become a fashionable watering place. It has
two magnificent ranges of buildings, which run
north and south, forming two opposite sides of a
square. It has also a neat chapel, a theatre, a con-
venient market, two libraries, warm baths, and about
sixty bathing-machines. Warwick House was built
by the Earl of Warwick, when lord of the manor,
but is now commonly let to some family of distinc-
tion for the season, as is another neat mansion, called
Worthing House. A fine blue clay, dug on the
beach, produces a cream coloured brick, with which
the houses are fronted. It may be observed, that
the eager spirit of the inhabitants of Worthing, has
led them to building enterprises, which out-run
the probability of success.
CHICHRSTER.] — The rape of Chichester, bounded,
towards the north, by Hampshire and Surrey ; east-
ward, by Arundel ; to the south, by the sea ; and
westward, by Hampshire ; comprehends sixty-nine
parishes.
At Bosham, was once a small cell for five or six
rtligieur, remains of which were visible in the seven-
teenth century. In the garden of the vicarage is a
colossal head of marble, which was dug up in
the church-yard, it is conjectured, from its bar-
barous disproportions, to be of early Saxon origin.
The church is situated near the sea, and is remark-
able for a subterraneous apartment, about 12 or 14
feet square, in which the priors auxl principal officers
VOL. iv. — NO. 168.
of the religious establishment were interred. At
this place was born Herbert de Bosham, private
secretary to Thomas a Beckct, afterwards Bishop
of Benevento, and finally, in 1178, promoted to the
dignity of a cardinal.
At Boxgrove, is Halnaker House, once the seat
of Robert de Haye, which after passing through
the hands of many persons, was, with the estate,
purchased by the Duke of Richmond, for 50.000;.
as an appendage to his mansion of Goodwood. Ro-
bert de Haye founded a priory, which was originally
a cell to the convent of Essai, in Normandy, but
was naturalized by Edward III. Some parts of the
buildings yet remain, and have been converted into
dwelling-houses. The priory church, now consist-
ing of a nave, transepts, two aisles, and three chan-
cels, was formerly much larger. It contains several
altar-tombs, without figures or inscriptions. Tra-
dition relates that one of them covers the remains
of Queen Adeliza. Others are for Thomas, Lord
Poynings and his lady Philippa. A canopied monu-
ment, in the chancel, was erected for Elizabeth Bour
teville, Lady de la Warre, and her lord, and bears
the date 1432. A mural monument for Sir William
Morley, K. B. is dated 1701 ; and another for his
daughter, the Countess of Derby, bears her por-
traiture in the act of relieving misery, which was
her chief delight when alive. An hospital, founded
by this lady, was built in 1741, as the inscription
informs us, — " the alms-house for the habitation and
support of poor aged and infirm women — the school
for the habitation and support of a school-master, and
for the education of poor boys and girls — the women
and children to be chosen out of the parishes of Box-
grove, East Lavant, and Tangrnere."
The city of Chichester, 62 £ miles S. W. by S.
from London, is the see of a bishop, it forms a
county of itself, and it gives name to the rape.
Seated on a gentle eminence, it is surrounded on all
sides except the north by the Lavant ; and is shelter-
ed from the north and north-east winds by part of
a range of hills which runs from the Amu to the
borders of Hampshire. It is supposed to have ex-
isted previously to the invasion of Britain by the
Romans, when it was the capital of the Regni.
Towards the conclusion of the fifth century, it was
destroyed by Ella, and afterwards rebuilt by his
son, Cissa, the second king of the South Saxons,
who named it after himself, and made it the royal
residence and capital of his dominions. From the
time of Egbert, it appears to have declined ; per-
haps from the removal of the court, and also from
the incursions of the Danes. — The removal, how-
ever, of the episcopal see from Selsea, where it had
been established 300 years, to this city, during the
reign of the Conqueror, proved highly beneficial to
Chichester, which began again to flourish, and has
ever since been in a state of progressive improve-
ment.—In the beginning of the civil war, soon after
the battle of Edgebill, King Charles cume from the
western counties as far as Hounslow, in the hope of
5 B
terminating
374
SUSSEX.
terminating the distractions of the country. While
he lay at Reading, a deputation of Sussex gentlemen
•waited on him, requesting his authority to raise the
southern counties. They pitched upon Chichester,
as the place of their rendezvous ; but they were
greatly disappointed in their expectations of support,
and were joined by very few except their own de-
pendants. It was on this occasion that the bastion
on the north walls between the two west lanes was
built, with the stones of the two small churches oi
St. Pancras and St. Bartholomew, which were de-
molished, because they stood without the walls.
The parliamentary army, however, speedily sum-
moned the city to surrender ; and, as the order was
not complied with, the batteries were opened. The
north-west tower of the cathedral was beaten down,
and never since rebuilt. In ten or twelve days a
capitulation was signed.
This city obtained its first charter of incorporation
from Stephen, which was confirmed by Henry II.
King John, and subsequent sovereigns ; but the
charter from which the corporation received its pre-
sent constitution was granted by James II. The
corporation consists of a mayor, a recorder, alder-
men, and common- council, without limitation. The
mayor is chosen annually : three of the aldermen
besides him act as justices of the peace within the
city, and are authorized to hold a court of record
every Monday in the Guildhall, for the decision of
all kinds of causes.
Chichester gives the title of Earl to the noble
family of Pelham, on whom it was conferred in 1801.
It has sent members to parliament ever since 1-295.
They are chosen by the inhabitants at large, paying
church and poor rates.
The markets of this city are plentifully supplied ;
and, though the prices are high during war, they are
proportionably low in peace. Butchers' meat is said
to have fallen 3d. per Ib. the week after the restora-
tion of the Bourbons, in 181-1. Abundance, of
oysters are brought to the fish shambles ; and the
neighbouring coast furnishes plenty of lobsters,
crabs, prawns, and several other kinds of fish. The
beast-market is the greatest of any in this, or the
adjacent counties, that of London excepted.
The city is situated near an arm of the sea, which
is spacious, well sheltered, and capable of receiving
vessels of great burden. The entrance is bounded
on the east by the point on which stands the village
of Wittering ; and the island of llayling on the
west. The channel is not difficult ; but off the
mouth of the harbour are sandbanks, which render
it impossible for ships of heavy burden to come up
except at spring tides. Owing to this cause, and
to the distance of the city from the quay, the trade
of Chichester is not extensive. About the beginning
of the reign of James I. an act of parliament was
obtained to remedy this inconvenience, by making
the Lavant navigable up to the city, but it was
never carried into execution. — About the commence-
ment of the -fifteenth century the Chichester malt
began to be in high repute. Several of the malting- -
houses, which were standing here 50 years ago,
bore the mark and characteristic of that age both in
the plan and manner of building. This manufacture
enriched many individuals, and benefited the city in
general. — Chichester, about two centuries since,
nearly monopolized the trade of needle-making. It
was principally carried on in the parish of St. Pan-
cras, where, before the civil war, almost every house
was occupied by a needle-maker. In 1643 this
quarter of the town was completely demolished ;
and though the houses were afterwards rebuilt, the
trade was never perfectly restored. It is now wholly
extinct in this city ; which, however, still retains a
small woollen fabric. — The city consists of four
principal streets, which meet in one common centre,
and are named, from their situation, E. W. N. anil
S. Each of these was formerly closed by a gate,
now down ; and the whole is still surrounded by a
stone wall, supposed to have been the work of the
Romans. The streets are spacious, well paved, and
clean.
Chichester cathedral is dedicated to the Holy
Trinity. On the removal of the episcopal see from
Selsea to this place, Hugh de Montgomery, to whom
Chichester and Arundel had been granted with the
title of earl, gave the whole south-west quarter of
the city to Bishop Stigand, that he might there build
a church, a palace, and habitations for his clergy.
So completely, however, had the rapacity of the
Conqueror drained the county of money, that the
preparations proceeded slowly, and Stigand died
before he had even laid the foundation. Godfrey,
the second bishop, left matters in not much greater
forwardness than he found them. Ralph, under the
auspices of Henry I. accomplished the work. The
cathedral was finished in 1108, but being built prin-
cipally of wood, it was destroyed by fire in May,
1114. Ralph immediately commenced the re-edifi-
cation ; and, with the assistance of the king, he
finished this second church before his death, in 1123.
In 1187, another conflagration is said to have de-
stroyed almost the whole city, with the church and
the houses of the clergy ; but from Hovenden, and
others, it may be inferred that this fire only consumed
the roof, and damaged the interior, of the cathedral.
The walls within have been cased with a thin coat
of stone, supported at the intercolumniations by
pillars of Petwortli marble, in the style of the thir-
teenth century. Of the same luateriiil and_ age are
the pillars which support the upper trif'orium, though
the external arches of the windows are coeval with
the lowest part of the church. The large west win-
dow, which, for elegance of tracery and justness of
proportion, may vie with any work of the kind in
England, was erected at the expence of 310/. by
Bishop Lanffton early in the fourteenth century. It
was glazed with painted glass, which remained un-
njured till destroyed by the fanatics in the great
rebellion. The same prelate built the chapter-house,
and gave 100/. towards the repair of the church,
part
SUSSEX.
375
part of which was probably employed in tlie erection
of the opposite window in the north transept, which
is of the same dimensions as the other, but more
simple in its tracery. In 1293 Langton was ap-
pointed lord-chancellor by Edward I. He died in
1337, and lies buried under the great window in the
south transept. His tomb was richly ornamented,
and, though much defaced, still retains some traces
of its original beauty. — 'I he Lady Chnpel, at the
east end of the cathedral, was built and endowed
by William de Sancto Leofardo, the predecessor of
Langton. It is an elegant building, but its appear-
ance is much injured by the filling up of its east
window. This chapel is now fitted up with book-
cases, containing a considerable collection of valua-
ble works. Beneath it is a spacious vault belonging
to the ducal family of Richmond, whose banners
are suspended over the entrance, above which is this
inscription : " Damns ultima,'''' on which the late
Rev. Mr. Clarke, canon residentiary, wrote the fol-
lowing lines : — •
Did he who thus inscrib'd this "wall ',j,-
Isot read or not believe St. Paul,
Who says tin-re is — where'er it stands-*
Another house not made with hands ?
Or, may we gather from these words,
That house is not a House of Lords?
On the south side of the library is the elegant
monument of Dr. Edward Waddington, who filled
the episcopal chair of Chichester from 1724 to 1731 ;
and on the north side of the entrance of the Rich-
mond vault is a black marble tomb, with a mitre and
crosier carved on the top, and the words RADVLPHVS
EPISCOPVS engraved at the end of it. On the oppo-
site side are two tombs of the same material, monu-
ments of the bishops Seffrid II. and Hilary, his
patron. — The choir is very richly fitted up ; the stalls
are of brown oak, finely carved and gilt, with the
names of the dignities and prebends painted over
them in ancient characters : the misereres are ex-
quisitely carved, and extremely curious. These
stalls were erected by Bishop Shurborne in the reign
of Henry VIII. as was also the beautiful altar-
screen. Above it is a gallery, in which, before the
Reformation, the choir was placed at the celebration
of high mass. The other parts of the choir are
finished in the same style, the whole bearing a strong
resemblance to foreign cathedrals. The bishop also
caused the paintings in the south transept to be exe-
cuted by Bernard!, an Italian artist. The first ex-
hibits the interview between Wilfrid and Ceadwalla,
in which the latter is represented as the person who
granted the island of Selsea to Wilfrid ; whereas, it
is evident, both from Bede and William of Malms-
bury, that it was Adelwalch, King of the South
Saxons, who founded that church. In the back-
ground appears the peninsula of Selsca, the parish
church, as it remains to this day, and the sea,
bounded by the blue hills of the Isle of Wight. The
subject of the other piece is the interview between
Henry VIII. and Bishop 3huruorne. Tliese finely
executed pictures are extremely valuable as repre-
sentations of the ecclesiastical and lay costume of
that age. — On the north side of the same transept
are the portraits of the kings of England, from the
Conqueror to George I. The south side is adorned
with the portraits of all the bishops of Selsea and
CHnchester till the Reformation. It is not impro- >
bable that Bernard! painted the vaulting of the
church, which appears to have been executed with
great boldness of colouring : the ornaments are
flowers, and the arms of the founders and benefac-
tors of the church, with scrolls of writing under
each. The arms of William of Wykeham are fre-
quently repeated, with his motto : " Manners makyth
Mrni"- — and this addition : Quod William Wykeham.
— Bishop Shurborne founded four prebends in thia
church, and increased the number of choristers.
He died in 1536, and is buried in the north aisle of
tb^ choir under a white marble monument, on which
lies his effigies in the pontifical habit. The figure and
tomb were much defaced by the republican*. — The
chantry of St. Richard, Bishop of Chichester, in
the south transept of the cathedral at the back of
the stalls, is a beautiful shrine of Gothic workman-
ship, consisting of three elegant cinquefoil arches,
ornamented with crockets and a finial. St. Richard,
sumamed De la Wich, was a Dominican friar,
admitted into the secular clergy, and consecrated
bishop of this see in 1245. He is recorded to have
wrought many miracles. He died in 1253, and was
canonized. — In the north side aisle of the choir is a
marble monument, with the effigies of a bishop, sup-
posed to be Adam Molins, slain at Portsmouth, in
1440, at the instigation of Richard, Duke of York.
Behind the high altar are two plain tombs, one of
which is said to be Bishop Story's, and the other
may be that of Bishop Day, who died in 1550,
These, with the monument of Bishop John Arundel,
who died in 1478, are the only tombs of prelates
prior to the Reformation, now remaining in this
church. It contains many sepulchral stones, some
of them of immense size, which were formerly
adorned with brasses of bishops, under stately cano-
pies.— The nave of this cathedral is remarkable for
having what appears to be a double aisle on eacli
side ; but these additional aisles are of later con-
struction than the others, and were evidently divided
into many chantries and chapels. In one of those
on the north side is an ancient monument, with the
effigies of a man in armour, and a lady at his feet
This, supposed to be the tomb of one of the Earls
of Arundel, appears to have been removed hither
from some other situation. Opposite to this monu-
ment is a neat tablet, executed by Flaxman, and
erected by public subscription, to the memory of
the unfortunate poet, William Collins, who was born
and buried in this city. — In the cloisters is interred
William Chillingworth, an eminent divine of the
seventeenth century, and the celebrated champion
of the Church of England against that of Rome.
The
376
SUSSEX.
The north transept, used as a parish church, is \
dedicated to St. Peter. The vaulting of the chancel j
in this part is a curious specimen of the highly '
pointed arches of the thirteenth century, ornamented
with the Saxon zigzag. On the outside of it is
some portion of a ba tiding, apparently the habita-
tion of some chantry priests. — The spire, 297 feet
in height, is of stone, and adorned with pinnacles
at Us base. Its style fixes the date of its erection
about the middle of the thirteenth century. In
1721, it was struck by lightning, when several large
stones were dislodged : one in particular, weighing
near three quarters of a hundred weight, was thrown
over the houses in West Street, without doing any
damage in its descent. The fall of the spire was
apprehended ; but it was found, that though a con-
siderable breach had been made about forty feet from
the top, the remainder of the building was firm and
compact. It was so completely repaired, that no
traces of the injury can now be discovered. — At
the north-west corner of the church is a strong
square tower, with four turrets and a lanthorn,
containing a peal of eight bells. During the siege
of Chichester, in 1643, the other tower of thejcathe-
dral was thrown down, and the great west window
demolished : but this accidental mischief was far
exceeded by the wanton havoc committed by the
soldiers. They broke down the organ, defaced the
ornaments in the choir, and overthrew the tombs in
the church, which they stripped of their brasses :
they plundered the sacramental plate ; and destroy-
ed all the bibles, service, and singing-books. The
altar, both in the cathedral and sub-deanery, or
parish church in the north transept, they broke
down, and destroyed the pulpit, pews, and every
thing that was not proof against their pole-axes.
The episcopal palace subsequently shared the same
fate, as did the deanery, the houses of the canons,
vicars, &c. — This cathedral had been for secular
canons from the time of its erection, and was there-
fore not changed by Henry VIII. The foundation
consists of a dean, precentor, chancellor, treasurer,
two archdeacons, thirty prebendaries, four of whom,
having always been called to residence, are styled
canons residentiary, four vicars, and a sufficient
choir. — The dimensions of the various parts of this
cathedral are as follow : — total length from cast to
west, including the Lady Chapel, 410 feet ; of the
transepts from north to south, 227 ; the breadth of
the choir, and side at the east end 62 ; of the nave
and aisles, which have four rows of pillars, 92 ; the
height of the vaulting 63 ; of the spire 297, and of
the bell -tower 120. The cloisters on the south side
of the church, have been much injured by the filling
up of the lower range of windows. They form a
quadrangle, the south side of which measures 120 ;
the east 128 ; and the west side 100 feet.
Chichester has six parish churches : St. Peter
the Great, or the sub-deanery, within the cathedral ;
St. Peter the Less, St. Olave's, St. Martin's, St.
Andrew's, and All Saints. Without the east gate
was a seventh, dedicated to St. Pancras ; and with-
out the west gate the parish of St. Bartholomew,
which has only a burial-ground, the church, together
with that of St. Pancras, having been demolished in
the seventeenth century. — In 1802 and 1803, St.
Martin's was repaired, or rather rebuilt, at an ex-
pence of 1700/. through the munificence of Mrs.
Dear. It is a good imitation of the Gothic. —
The Bishop's Palace underwent a thorough repair
in 1725. In digging the foundation for some new
buildings, several coins of Nero and Domitian, and
a curious Roman pavement, were found, from which
it is conjectured, that the mansion of the Roman
proprietors once occupied this spot. — The work of
Bishop Shurborne is visible in many parts of this
edifice, particularly in the magnificent dining-room,
which nas a fine ceiling divided into compartments.
The present bishop has adorned the window of this
room with painted glass, and repaired and orna-
mented the whole palace. The chapel is a beautiful
building, erected in the thirteenth century ; but some
of the windows were inserted at a later period. The
gardens, which have the advantage of a fine terrace-
walk on that part of the city-walls inclosed by them,
are tastefully planted and laid out. The deanery, a
handsome and convenient edifice, built by the cele-
brated Sherlock, when dean of this cathedral, is
pleasantly situated, as are also the houses of the
residentiaries, all of which have good gardens, with
terrace walks on the city walls.
The structure called the friary, situated near the
north' gate, is supposed, though probably errone-
ously, to have beipfn originally built by Roger de
Montgomery, Earl of Chichester, who, on receiving
from the king the grant of the city, pitched on this
spot as a proper place on which to erect a castle for
his residence, and caused it to be marked out and
walled round to the extent of ten acres. Henry VIII.
in 1541, granted it to the mayor and citizens of
Chichester, by whom it was leased for 999 years,
excepting the chapel, which was converted into a
Guildhall, a spacious, but by no means magnificent
structure. Considerable remains of the conventual
buildings, of the same age as the chapel, existed a
few years since. — The Council Chamber in North
Street was erected in 1733, by subscription, to which
the Duke of Somerset, then high steward of the
city, gave 100 guineas. It is raised on arcades,
and the ornamental part of the building is of the
Ionic order. — Contiguous to the Council Chamber if
the Assembly Room, also built by subscription,
about 1781. It is an elegant, spacious, well pro-
portioned room, fifty-nine feet in length, including
the recess, thirty -two in breadth, and twenty-eiglr
in height. Assemblies are held every fortnight dur
ing the winter season, and also occasional concerts
—The Theatre, at the lower end of South Street
was rebuilt in- 1791. It has some pretensions to ele
garice ; and within, it is roomy and commodious.—
The Custom House is in the West Street, having
been some years since removed thither from St
Martin'
SUSSEX.
377
Martin's Square. — The Cross stands in the centre of
the city. It was built by Edward Story, who was
translated to this sec from that of Carlisle, in 1475.
It is universally acknowledged to be one of the
most elegant buildings of the kind in England.
This cross was formerly used as a market-place,
but the increased population of the city requiring a
more extensive area for that purpose, a large and
convenient Market-house was, about the year 1807,
erected in the North Street, on the completion of
which, it was proposed to take down this cross, then
considered as a nuisance. Fortunately, however,
the city was exempted from the reproach of such a
proceeding, by the public spirit of some of the
members of the corporation, who purchased several
houses on the north side of the Cross, in order to
widen that part of the street by their demolition. —
The Grammar School, in West Street, was founded
by Bishop Story in 1497, for the education of the
sons of freemen of the city. — In the same street is the
Free School, founded in 1702, by Oliver Whitby,
with a particular regard to navigation, and endowed
with lands to maintain a master and twelve boys.
Here are also two Charity Schools, one for clothing
and educating twenty -two poor boys, and twenty
girls ; and the other for the instruction of thirty
boys. St. Mary's Hospital, in St. Martin's Square,
is said to have been originally a nunnery, founded
in 1173; but at what period it was converted into
an hospital for indigent persons, it is impossible to
ascertain. The buildings consist of a spacious re-
fectory, adjoining to which, on each side, are the
apartments of the brethren and sisters. At the east
end is the chapel, about forty feet long, and twenty
wide ; having a lofty coved ceiling and Gothic win-
dows. It appears to have been rebuilt about 1407.
It contains stalls for the members , and near the
altar is a very fine piscina, and a richly sculptured
stone shrine, with stalls for the priest, deacon, and
sub-deacon. The present members are six poor
women, and two poor men. Just without the north
gate stands the general Workhouse of the city, in
which the poor are maintained under the superin-
tendance of thirty guardians, annually chosen. In
repairing the pavement belonging to this poor-house,
in the month of April, 181(5, the workmen discovered
a sepulchral vault of brick, neatly arched over,
twelve feet six inches in length, by six feet ten
inches in width, in which was deposited a leaden
coffin, presenting the head in its true shape, by the
lead around it fitting like a cap; the height of the
body was five feet ten inches. The coffin appeared
to fit closely to the body ; and, on examination,
there appeared to be a dark humid moisture amongst
the bnnes, of the consistence of paste. It was con-
jectured to be the remains of the founder of the alms-
houses (now the poors'-house) William Cawley, who
was member of parliament for this city, and who
voted for, and signed the death-warrant of Charles I.
His large estates in this neighbourhood were confis-
cated on the Restoration, and he as a regioide was
VOL. iv. — NO. 168.
exiled abroad, where be died, and was afterwards
brought here to be privately interred. In the same
vault were two other skeletons of a full-grown size,
with the decayed parts of their wooden coffins, lying
amongst the bones. — In 1772, Mr. John Harilham,
a celebrated tobacconist in London, a native .of
Chichester, left by his will the interest of all his
estates to the guardians of the poor, " to ease the
inhabitants in their poor-rates for ever." — The Dis-
pensary for the relief of the sick-poor, was originally
established in 1784, -chiefly through the humane ex-
ertions of the Rev. Mr. VValker and Dr. Sanden. —
About 1772, or 1773, the north, west, and south
gates were taken down. The east gate, because it
supported the city gaol, was not demolished till
1783, when a new gaol was erected on the south
side of the place which that gate had occupied.
Chichester anciently contained other religious and
benevolent institutions, of which no traces now
exist.
Amongst the distinguished natives of Chichester,
may be mentioned William Juxon, who, in the 17th
century attained the highest station in the English
church ; Thomas Bradwardine, confessor to Ed-
ward III. and William Collins, the poet, who was
born in 1720, in the house now, or recentlyo ccupied
by Mr. Mason, bookseller.
Eastbourne was formerly a market- town, and had
a small convent of Benedictine nuns. In the church,
which belonged to the nunnery, is an ancient monu-
ment, without inscription, bearing the effigies of a
knight, whom tradition reports to have been Sir
David Owen, a natural son of Henry VIII.
Near East Lavant, is Goodwood, the magnificent
seat of the Duke of Richmond, situated in an exten-
sive park, on a commanding site. The mansion and
estate formerly belonged to the Percys, and, when
first purchased by the Duke of Richmond, the house
was pulled down, and a hunting-seat erected. To
this have been added a principal front and additional
wing. The front and both the wings have at their
extremities circular towers, and the recent erection
is of small flints, which possess the peculiar quality
of whitening by exposure to the air. The stables
and other offices are handsome, and even magnifi-
cent ; the gardens are large ; and the whole de-
mesne comprehends 2000 acres. A pleasant house
at one extremity commands a wide viewol the coast
and neighbouring country. Races are held on a
hill adjacent to the park, generally in April. One
curiosity of Goodwood deserves notice : it is the
lion, carved in wood, which accompanied Anson
round the world, at the head of his vessel, the Cen-
turion.
At Harting is Up Park, which was the residence
of Ford Grey, Esq. afterwards Earl of Tankerville,
whose daughter marrying Lord Ossulston, conveyed
the estate to him. In 1746, it was purchased by
Sir Matthew Featherston, who was succeeded, in
1774, by his son, Sir Henry. Lady holt House was
the property of the Gargles, staunch adherents of
5 c .Tame?
378
SUSSEX.
James H. but it now belongs to the proprietor of ;
Up Park, and the edifice has been allowed to tall
to ruin.
At Lynchmere, was Shelbred Priory, the founda-
tion of whiqh is ascribed to Sir Ralph de Ardern.
Considerable remains have been preserved, from their
having been inhabited since the Dissolution as a farm-
house. One of the rooms contains the story of the
Nativity, in fresco, and many figures in ancient
dresses. A ruinous edifice near this place, supposed
to have been an appendage to it, was destroyed
about 20 years since, before which period it con-
sisted of the shell of a building 08 feet by 33, with
walls 5 or 6 feet thick.
Midhurst, a populous and well-built town, seated
on the Arun, lly miles N. by E. from Chichester,
and 59£ S. W. from London, is often considered by
antiquarians to be the Milba of the Romans ; it was
certainly a place of somo consequence at the Con-
quest ; after which epoch it was a seat of a branch
of the Bohuns ; and, from the reign of Henry VIII.
until a recent period, of the Brownes, Viscounts
Montague. This place is a borough by prescription,
having sent two members to parliament since the
4 Edward If. The burgesses, 120 in number, to
which the elective franchise belongs, were sold by
the trustees of the last Viscount Montagu* to the
fiarl of Egremont, who again disposed of them to
Lord Carrington, the present owner. The governor
of the town is a bailiff, chosen annually, at the
court-leet of the manor. — The church contains the
remains of many persons of the Montague family,
and several monuments. On an altar-tomb of mar-
ble repose the figures of two females, in rich antique
costume, surrounded by other figures of two men in
armour, two women kneeling, one other man and
two women, all much mutilated. At each end are
splendid coats of arms. Upon this tomb is raised
another, of mixed marble, on which is the figure of
a bearded knight, in gilt armour, kneeling before
an altar. An inscription informs us that these
effigies represent Anthony Browne, Viscount Mon-
tacute, chief standard-bearer of England, and
Knight of the Garter ; and his two wives, Lady
Jane Ratcliffe, daughter of Robert, Earl of Sussex,
and Magdalen, daughter of William, Lord Dacre :
the ilat« is 1592. — A free grammar school was
founded here in 1672, for twelve boys. On St.
Anne's Hill, are traces of a building, supposed to
have been the residence of the Bghuns. Eastward
from Midhurst about a quarter of a mile, are the
picturesque ruins of Cowdray House, the seat of
the Montagues. This edifice was quadrangular,
decorated with paintings and statues, and, as Ed-
ward IV. said of it, " a goodly house." On the
•24th of September, 1793, it was destroyed by fire,
•with the greater part of its valuable contents ; and,
nearly at the same time, the noble owner, the last
of his race, was drowned, in a daring attempt to
descend the falls of the Rhine, at Schaffhausen.
The estates devolved on his sister, married to Wil-
liam Stephen Poyntz, Esq. who has erected a plain
unpretending residence, a mile from the old one.
Near Racton, on the borders of Hampshire, is
Stanstead House, the property of Lewes Way, Esq.
The situation is delightful, and commands a view
of Portsmouth, the Isle of Wight, and the shipping
at Spithead. The building is quadrangular, and
connected with its two wings by an open colonnade.
The park comprehends 650 acres, besides a tract of
nearly 1000, now a nursery for young timber.
Selsea is a peninsula, formerly an episcopal see
The church is an ancient building, two miles from
tiie village, and contains several ancient coffin-
shaped stones, marked with crosses. Here was
founded the first monastery in the county, for canons
regular, the remains of which are now buried in the
ocean, as are many other buildings forming part of
the city.
Slindon, granted, with Pageham, to the see of
Canterbury, in 680, was long a residence of the
archbishops. From the reign of Elizabeth, till
1753, the Kempes had a seat here ; and, on the death
of the last of that name, and the marriage of his
daughter, and co-heir with the Earl of Newburgh,
that nobleman became the proprietor. The mansion
is finely situated on a commanding eminence, and
contains a chapel for the celebration of religious
offices, according to the Catholic ritual. This part
of the building is adorned with a picture of Christ
taken from the cross, and the other apartments, with
portraits, among which that of Lord Derwentwater,
who was beheaded, deserves notice.
In the parish of South Berstead, is Bognor, a
place which has risen during the last five and twenty
years, to the reputation of a fashionable sea-bathing
place. This was effected by Sir Richard Hotham,
once a hatter, who retiring hither, built many hand-
some streets, an hotel, a library, a subscription-room,
and a chapel ; besides, a warm sea-bath, and ten
or twelve bathing machines.
At Trotton was born, in 1641, Thomas Otway,
the dramatic poet, whose father was rector of Wool-
beding.
At West Dean, is Canon House, the seat of Lord
Selsea, who holds the estate by lease from the dean
and chapter of Chichester.
HASTINGS.] — The rape of Hastings, in form an
irregular triangle, is bounded, towards the north-
east, by Kent ; on the south, by the sea ; and on
the west, by Pevensey ; and contains 45 parishes.
Ashburnham gave name to a family, of which
mention is made as early as the reign of Edward the
Confessor, and which, though hostile to the interest
of the Conqueror, were permitted to retain their pos-
sessions, on which they contrived to reside in privacy,
till again brought into notice by John Ashburnham,
who was sheriff of Surrey and Sussex, during the
reign of Richard II. and that of Henry IV. In the
seventeenth century, William Ashburnham vvas dis-
tinguished for his loyalty to Charles I. In 1698, his
grandson was created Baron Ashburnham ; and the
second
SUSSEX.
y/o
second son of this nobleman WHS, in 1730, created
Karl of Ashburnbam and Viscount St. Asaph,
which titles are cnjrtycd by his descendants. Ash-
burnham House, sittuited in an extensive park, is a
spacious mansion, adorned \vith good pictures by
Vandyke, Lely, and others ; and the demesne is
stocked with deer. Near the mansion, is the church,
in which arc preserved the shirt, stained with blood,
in which Charles I. was beheaded, his watch, his
white silk knit drawers, and the sheet which was
thrown over his body.
Battle, anciently called Epiton, derived its pre-
sent denomination from the conflict between William
the Norman, and Harold Harefout, which decided
the fate of these realms', and gave to the former the
surname of Conqueror. This engagement happened
on the 14th of October, 1000, and continued from
morning until sunset, when the Normans had sus-
tained a loss of 15,000 men ; and the English four
times that number, among whom was their king.
The Conqueror, grateful for his victory, and in
performance of a vow, commenced the foundation
of an abbey, on that part of the field where the
battle had raged most fiercely, causing the high
altar to be raised on the spot, where the body of his
•valiant antagonist, or, as others say, his standard,
had been found. This abbey was dedicated to St.
Martin, and the privileges enjoyed by the superiors,
•within its precincts, were almost regal — an exclusive
right of inquest in cases of murder — the property of
all treasure discovered there — free- warren and
exemption, even for their tenants, from all eccle-
siastical jurisdiction — right of sanctuary for their
church in cases of homicide — and the power of par-
doning any condemned thief whom they should
meet going to execution. From the foundation of
this abbey, till its dissolution, it was governed by
thirty-one abbots. Sometime after the latter period,
it was the property of the Montagues, who sold it
to Sir Thomas Webster ; and that gentleman made
it his residence. Sir Godfrey Webster, Bart, is the
present owner. In its present state, Battle Abbey
bears ample testimony to its ancient magnificence,
the ruins being extensive, and exhibiting a mixture
of the light Norman with the solid Saxon architec-
ture. These remains occupy three sides of a qua-
drangle, of which one is an ancient gateway ; the
centre, where stood the church, a dwelling-house ;
and the remaining side, two low parallel walls,
which formerly supported a row of chambers. Nine
elegant arches, now filled up, are all that remain
of the church. Two detached buildings, supposed
to have been refectories, are now converted into
offices. — The town of Battle consists of one street,
and 1ms a handsome church, the windows of which
are embellished with stained glass. The chancel
contains a fine altar-monument, to the memory of
Sir Anthony Browne, armour-bearer to Henry VIII.
This place is celebrated for a manufacture of gun-
powder, inferior only to that at Dartlbrd.
Bodiham Castle, near the -village of that name,
is a magnificent ruin, the outward walls of which
are all entire. This edifice, surrounded by a moat,
supplied from the river Bother, on which it is
seated, is nearly square, defended at the corners
by a round tower, and, in the centre of eacli side
by a square one. The principal entrance is in the
middle of the north front, flanked by.two machico-
lated towers, and defended by an iron portcullis.
At the distance of a few feet from this gate, on ix
projecting causeway, is a kind of postern, large
enough to contain one man. It is probable that
the extremity of this causeway was once joined to
the land, by a drawbridge, the place of which is
now supplied by a continuation of the embankment.
The lodgings and offices, none of which, except a
few small rooms in the turrets, are entire, were
situated close to the outer wall, leaving in the
middle an area 87 feet by 78. The kitchen and
the chapel are both distinguishable. In the cen-
tre of the area is a large ball of iron, a foot in
diameter, half sunk in the earth, probably the dread-
ful agent of some attack at a remote period. These
ruins are overgrown with ivy, which, throwing a
gloom over the majestic walls, and combining with
the dark but placid lake beneath, impresses the
mind with an idea of stillness and repose, unima-
ginable by those who have never felt it amid such
scenes. The exact period of the foundation of this
castle is unknown. In the 14th and 15th centuries,
it belonged to the Lewknors, from whom it passed
to the Earls of Thunet, and, at length, by purchase,
to Sir Thomas Webster, whose descendant Sir
Godfrey, is the present owner. — At Brightling is
Rose Hill, the property of Johu Fuller Esq. whose
ancestor, Mr. Thomas Fuller, purchased it in 1697.
At Crowhurst, is the seat of Henry Cresset Pel-
ham, Esq. now out of repair. On the south side of
the church are considerable remains of a substantial
building, by some supposed to have been an oratory;
by others, a mansion or court-lodge.
At Guestling, is Bromham, a handsome stone
building, the property of Sir William Ashburnham,
Bart, the descendant of a cadet of the ancient house
of that name.
Hastings, the capital of this rape, is situated 69
miles E. from Chichester, and 64^ S. B. from Lon-
don, in a beautiful valley, and consists of two prin-
cipal streets, parallel, and separated by a streamlet,
called the Burn. Of its origin, and the derivation
of its name, nothing is known. In the reign of
Athelstan, it had a mint ; and, at their institutions,
held the first place among the cinque ports. Its
contribution was 21 ships, eacli to be manned with
21 able seamen, for which it enjoyed, and still enjoy*
great immunities. Edward the Confessor, William
the Conqueror, and several other monarchs, granted
charters to this place; but that of William III.
gave the corporation its present form, in which it is
composed of a mayor, jurats, and freemen, who are
exempted from toll, and empowered to hold courts-
of judicature in capital cases. By this body two
members.
380
SUSSEX.
members have been returned to parliament since
•43 Edward III. Westward from the town, on a
rocky clift', are some remains of the castle, consist-
ing of two walls, which make an acute angle, and
must have enclosed a third side, formed by the
edge of the cliff, 400 feet in length. The whole
area of this triangle is more than an acre. The
walls, which are no where entire, are about eight
feet thick. Near the gateway, are the remains of
a small tower, and further to the westward, a sally-
port, with another tower. The sides not defended
by the cliff, had, at the distance of one hundred
feet from the wall, a ditch one hundred feet broad
in the widest part, but narrowing by degrees, as it
approached the gate, which was situated at the
angle. This castle was given by the Conqueror to
Robert, Earl of Eu, his confidential servant and
counsellor, and was forfeited by one of his de-
scendants in the reign of Henry III. who granted
it to the Earl of Richmond. In the fifteenth cen-
tury, it belonged to Thomas Hoo, created Lord
Hoo and Hastings, and afterwards to the unfor-
tunate Lord Hastings ; who, conspiring against
Richard III. during his protectorate, in favour of
the sons of Edward IV. was, by the former, brought
to the block. At present it belongs to the Earl of
Chichester. In this castle was a free royal chapel,
with a dean and several canons, or prebendaries ;
and, westward from the cliff, was a priory of Black
canons, founded in the reign of Richard I. About
1377, Hastings was burnt by the French, and, when
rebuilt, was divided into three parishes ; St. Cle-
itent's, All Saints, and St. Mary's in the Castle.
The two former o.:!y have churches, which were,
about thirty or forty years since, united into one
rectory. The Town Hall was erected in 1700, and
contains a shield with the arms of France, brought
from Quebec, and presented to the corporation, by
General Murray. Hastings once enjoyed the ad-
vantages of a harbour, formed by a wooden pier,
•which was destroyed in the reign of Elizabeth.
Fishing, and boat-building are the principal occu-
pations of the inhabitants ; and eight or ten sloops,
of about forty tons burden, are regularly engaged,
from April till November, in bringing chalk from
the .Holywell pits at Beachy Head. About twenty
bathing-machines are kept for the convenience of
•visitors, and warm baths have been established by a
subscription of the inhabitants. — In the winter of
1814, a inackaw, a beautiful bird belonging to Mr.
Sergeant, of the Hastings Anns, in this town, died
at the age of 122 years. Lady de Crespigny had
had the bird in her possession forty years and ten !
months. Sir Claude de Crespigny, her husband,
received the bird from his father, who had kept it
seventy years. On the death of Lady de Crespigny, |
July 20, 1812, it was left to Mrs. Wood, of John
Street, Oxford Street, London,
Heathfield Park, in the parish of that name, was
formerly called Bayley Park, and was the property
of the Dacres, by whom it was sold, in 1674, to
Hercules Pawlett, Esq. After this time it passed
through many hands, until purchased by Lieutenant
General Elliot, afterwards Lord Heathfield, who
gave it its present appellation, and sold it, in 1791,
to Francis Newberry, Esq. the present proprietor.
Hurstmonceux, now the property of Thomas Read
Kempe, Esq. formerly belonged to the De Hursts,
the De Fiennes, and the Dacres, in succession.
The Castle, a quadrangular and nearly square
edifice, is one of the oldest brick buildings in the
kingdom, and is surrounded by a moat, which has
long been dry. This ancient residence consisted of
one large and two small courts ; the first of which,
cloistered round, had, on one side, a fine and spaci-
ous hall, adjoining to which was the best apartment.
The offices were ample, and the oven in the bake-
house was fourteen feet in diameter. Under the
eastern corner tower, was an octagonal-room, used
as a prison, having in the middle a stone post, with
a strong chain. About 1777, this castle, the most
perfect regularly castellated mansion in the king-
dom, was dismantled, and it is now fast falling to
ruin. The park, which was once well stocked with
fallow-deer, ami finely wooded, still contains some
timber, particularly the largest beech trees in the
kingdom.
Northiam gave birth to Archbishop Frewen, who
was educated at Oxford, and attended Charles I.
in quality of chaplain, in his matrimonial expedition
to Spain. In 1643, he was appointed to the see of
Lichficld and Coventry, and, after the Reformation,
to the primacy of York.
At Robertsbridg*, or Rotherbridge, was founded,
in 1 176, a priory of Cistercian monks, by Robert
de St. Martin, second husband of Alice, daughter
of William de Albini and Queen Adeliza. After the
Dissolution, it was granted to Sir William Sydney ;
and the remains have been converted into a farm-
house.
At Westfield, is Beauport, a handsome stone edi-
fice, so seated on an eminence as to command, in
clear weather, a distinct view of Boulogne and
Calais. This mansion, formerly the seat of the
late General James Murray, belongs to Sir James
Bland Burgess.
Rye, 76 miles E. by N. from Chichester, and 62£
S. E. from London, occupies a lofty site on the west
side of the Rother, and is supposed to be the Portia
Noi'us of Ptolemy. Jeakes derives its name from
the British word R/iy, a ford, or bay ; because the
rivers Rother and Ree are fordable ; and the (own is
situated at the bottom of a bay which bears its name.
In 893, the Danes made a descent on this place,
with a fleet of 250 sail, and seized the castle of
Apuldore, in Kent. In the 12th century, William
of Ypres, Earl of Kent, erected the tower which
bears his name. In 1287, a tempest altered the
course of the Rother, changing its mouth from
Romney, to this place. In 1377, the French landed
here with five vessels, and, after plundering the
place, set it on fire. A similar descent was made in
the
SUSSEX.
381
the reign of Henry VI., when the records and
charters of the town were destroyed. In. the 10th
century, a violent storm restored the harbour, which
was still more improved by u second. Henry VII.
and Elizabeth, both visited this town ; as did
Charles II. a century after, for the purpose of re-
viewing the English and Frencli fleets. George I.
and his successor were driven into this harbour by
stress of weather, the former, in 1725 ; the latter,
in 1730. Ypres Castle is a strong square edifice,
defended at each of its angles by a round tower. It
is now vised as a prison. Beneath the walls is a
battery of 18 guns. Part of the walls of the town,
and some of the gates remain, but in a very ruinous
condition. The chapel of a monastery of Augustine
friars, still known by the name of the Friary, is
used as a storehouse. The ancient church stood near
Ypres Tower ; the present edifice, accounted the
largest parish church in the kingdom, was repaired
•at the beginning of the last century, but contains
nothing remarkable. Rye has a free grammar
school, a free-school, and chapels for different sects
of dissenters. Some years since a canal was formed,
by which vessels of 200 tons burden may ride close
to the quay ; and this work was considerably im-
proved by a dam of a singular construction across the
old channel ; the projector of which, the late Rev.
Daniel Pape, received the gold medal of the Society
of Arts. The corporation of Rye consists of a
mayor, jurats, and freemen, who enjoy the right
of returning two members to parliament. The trade
of the town depends on the herring and mackerel
fisheries ; some exports of corn and mult ; and the
making of lii»e from chalk, fetched from East
Bourne.
Winchelsea, 74 miles E. by N. from Chichester,
and 66| S. E. from London, though considerably
reduced from its ancient importance, is still a borough
and market town, and retains many proofs of its
former consequence. The corporation consists of a
mayor and twelve jurats, who, with the freemen,
together about 40 in number, return two represen-
tatives to parliament. Winchelsea was n powerful
member of the cinque-ports, contributing ten vessels
to the number which they were bound to furnish for
the public service. These vessels, during the tur-
bulent reign of Henry III., engaged in a horrible
system of piracy ; for which the son of that monarch,
Prince Edward, inflicted a severe punishment,
storming the town, and putting to the sword the
principal persons concerned in these practices. In
1230, the sea, passing its accustomed bounds, inun-
dated the town, and destroyed more than 300 houses ;
and the records of Rye notice a recurrence of this
accident in these words : — " Be it remembered,
that, in the year of our Lord 1287, in the even of
St. Agath, the Virgin, was the town of Winoheisea
drowned, and all the lands between Climesden and
Hithe." These ravages of the ocean by degrees re-
duced the town to a prospect of ruin, and the inha-
bitants to the necessity of petitioning the king for a
TOL. jv. — NO. 168.
grant of land, on which they might dwell securely.
To this request the king acceded, and having pur-
chased 150 acres, he caused it to he enclosed with
walls, within which the inhabitants of old Winchelsea
began to build their habitations. Within twenty
years after this event, it was twice pillaged, once
by the French, and again by the Spaniards. Vari-
ous causes induce the belief that the new town was
well peopled, and attained a high degree of opu-
lence : Queen Elizaheth, visiting it, was so struck
by the magnificent habits of the corporation, and
the prosperous appearance of the place, with the
great number of resident gentry, that she compli-
mented it with the appellation of .Little London, but,
towards the close of her reign, the sea retired,
and the trader abandoned the place, which, thus
deserted, fell gradually to ruin and desolation ; and
does not now contain more than 100 houses. The
hill, on which these are situated, is a mile and a
half from the sea, and surrounded by marshes ; as
it once was by the sea. The church, situated in
the centre, is partly in ruins, but these ruins indi-
cate much former splendour. The aisles contain soma
monuments of knights templars ; and three lofty
arches, springing from clustered columns, which
supported the tower. There were two other parish
churches, and, according to Grose, upon the autho-
rity of tradition, fourteen or fifteen chapels ; whilo
Leland mentions " two houses of friars," and is
silent concerning the rest. Considerable remains
of one of these houses exist, and indicate great
magnificence. The three ancient gates, and some
fragments of the walls exist, but in a very ruinous-
condition.
Winchelsea castle, two miles from the town, and
half a mile from the sea, was built by Henry VIII.,
and is still nearly entire, though no longer re-
paired. The keep, a large circular tower, is sur-
rounded by several other towers, connected by cur-
tains. In 1628 Elizabeth, daughter and heir of
Sir Thomas Heneage, wtis created Countess of
Winchelsea ; and on her descendants, who have
also inherited the earldom of Nottingham, this
place continues to confer the title of earl.
In the 13th century, Winchelsea gave birth to
Robert de Winchelsea, who, in 1292, was raised
to the see of Canterbury, and exercised a charity
so extensive, that he usaully fed 4000 or 5000
persons.
LEWES.] — This rape has the common boundaries
of the county on the north and south ; on the east
it joins Pevensey ; and, on the west, Bramber ; and
comprehends, in the 12 hundreds of which it con-
sists, 47 parishes.
Aldrington, once a considerable village on the
coast, has been entirely swallowed up, except the
church, which is in a ruinous condition.
In Ardingleigh church are several monuments of
the Wakehursts and Culpepers. The tomb of one
of the latter bears his portraiture, with those of his
wife and their eighteen children.
5 D Bright-
382
SUSSEX.
Brighthelnastone, or Brighton, 33 miles E. by
S. from Chichester, and 54 S. from London, now
•the most populous town in the county, was, about
the middle of the last century, a small •village com-
posed of fishing-huts, and scarcely known even by
name. From the circumstance of Roman coins and
other relics having been discovered, the conjecture
has arisen, not without a colouring of probability,
that Brighton was frequented by those conquerors
of the island : its name seems to have been derived
from that of Brighthelm, a Saxon bishop, who made
it his residence. After the Conquest, it was granted
to William de Warren. In the reign of Elizabeth,
Brighton was fortified with walls, and had four
gates, but these means of defence, with a block-
house raised by Henry VIII. were gradually de-
stroyed by the sea. In 1699, an inundation swept
away 130 houses, and occasioned a damage esti-
mated at 40,000/. It was about 1750 that Brighton
attracted that notice which is the cause of its pre-
sent prosperity. The town is governed by a consta-
ble and eight bead-boroughs, and the office of
lighting and paving it, is vested in sixty-four com-
missioners. The two divisions of the town are
situated on the opposite sides of two gentle emi-
nences, having between them the Steyne ; an agree-
able lawn ; open, on the south, to the sea ; and on
the north to the downs ; and much frequented by
visitors, as a pleasant walk. The old town, that is,
the site of the old town, for the buildings are as new
and as splendid as those of the new town, lies west-
ward from the Steyne ; the new town occupies the
opposite height ; the situation of the Pavilion, the
favourite residence of the Prince Regent, is central,
overlooking the ocean, and the Steyne. The figure
of this celebrated resort of rank and wealth is qua-
drangular ; the names of the principal streets west-
ward, are North Street, East Street, Ship Street,
West Street, East Cliff, Middle Cliff, West Cliff,
Artillery Place, Bellevue, and Bedford Square ; on,
and near the Steyne, are the North and South Pa-
rades, Blue and Buff Buildings, Steyne Place, South
Row, and Steyne Row ; and, eastward, are the
Marine Parade, the Royal Crescent, the New Steyne,
St. James's Street, High Street, Edward Street,
Dorset Gardens, and Rock Buildings. The Marine
Pavilion, begun in 1784, has a front 200 feet in
length ; but it has undergone, and is now under-
going, such alteration as defies anticipated descrip-
tion. The principal apartments of the interior are
the entrance hall, 35 feet square, and 20 high ; the
anti-room, decorated with nine Chinese paintings ;
the drawing-room, which contains six ; the Chinese
lantern, 12 feet long and 8 wide, the sides of which
are composed of stained glass, representing insects,
iruit, flowers, &c. peculiar to China ; the conserva-
tory, or music-room, 50 feet long, 30 wide, and 20
high,superblydecorated with 20 columns, supporting
a roof exquisitely paintd : these rooms occu py the
south side of the entrance-hall ; on the opposite side
are the rotunda, or saloon, an oblong of 55 feet,
the ceiling of which is admirably painted ; the!
./Egyptian gallery, 50 feet long and 20 wide ; and
the banqueting-room. The arm of the present
alterations is said to be to produce an imitation of
the Kremlin, a royal fortress at Moscow, destroyed
by the Russians, in the first northern expedition of
Buonaparte. If the Pavilion is superb, the stables,
built by Porden, in the Moorish style of architec-
ture, are scarcely less so: the riding-school J&200
feet long, and 60 broad. The dome of this build-
ing, crowned with a cupola, attracts general admi-
ration, by its uncommon lightness.
Grove House, adjoining the Pavilion, is the pro-
perty of the Duke of Marlborough ; and two other
mansions, one the property of Mrs. Fitzherbert,
and another of Lady Anne Murray, claim particular
attention.
The parish church contains a curious font, brought,
according to tradition, from Normandy, in the reign
of the Conqueror. The only remarkable tomb is
that of the captain of the vessel which conveyed
Charles II. out of the country after his defeat at
Worcester. Besides the church, Brighton contain*
a Catholic chapel, meeting-houses for Quakers,
Presbyterians, Baptists, Calvinistic and Arminian
Methodists, and a Synagogue. The Chapel Royal
was erected in 1793, and will contain 1000 persons.
The Theatre was first fitted up in 1807, and is ac-
counted handsome. The Royal Circus is a new
building, designed for exhibitions of horsemanship.
At the Castle Tavern is an elegant suit of assembly
rooms ; and at the Old Ship Tavern, is an apart-
ment for assemblies, consisting of several rooms
elegantly furnished. The libraries are Donaldson's,
Tappen's, Choate's, White's, and Wright's. Warm
and cold baths may be had at Mott's, Williams's,
and Wood's, as well as on the West Cliff; and,
vapour-baths nt the house of Mahomed, a native
surgeon of the East Indies. Half a mile from the
church is a chalybeate spring, which has been de-
clared efficacious in cases of debility, &c. The
fish-market, held on the beach, is supplied by about
one hundred boats, with mackerel, from May to
July ; herrings, from October to Christmas ; soles,
brill, and turbot, at all seasons ; and dorees, mullets,
scale, and whitings in great plenty. — Brighton
has three free schools ; a boys' school, conducted
on the system of Joseph Lancaster ; a girls' school,
on the same plan ; a Sunday school ; a school of
industry ; and perhaps others of later institution,
The only fortification of Brighton is a battery of
six 42-pounders, at the west end of the town. In
the town are barracks for 450 men ; and, on the
Lewes road, are two extensive ranges, erected
during the late wars. On the downs, is a fine race-1
course, which, from its elevation, 400 feet above
the level of the sea, commands a prospect both ex-
tensive and diversified. On Wildhawk Hill, where
is a telegraph, one of the chain from Dover to Ports-
mouth ; and on Ilollingbury Castle Hill, where is
a fire-beacon, are also traces of encampments, sup-
posed
SUSSEX.
389
posed to be Roman. Nothing that caa assist (lie
convalescence of the invalid, conduce to the comfort
of the fastidious, or (latter the luxury of the dissi-
pated, is wanting1 at this place.
Cuckfield, 35 miles N. E. by E. from Chichester,
it small but pleasant place, situated in the centre of
the rape, belonged, at an early period, to the Earls
of Warren and Surrey ; and about the reign of
Edward II. became by marriage the property of the
Fitz-alans, Earls of Arundel. The church, a hand-
some building, with a lofty spire, contains many
monumental tombs of the Burrells, ancestors of
Lord Gwydir, with some others. A free grammar
school was founded at Cuckfield, in the reign of
Elizabeth. Cuckfield Place, long the seat of the
Sergisons, is situated half a mile southward from the
town, and near the Brighton road.
Hurst-per-point, once called Hurst, was a part of
the extensive possessions of Earl Godwin, father of
Harold II. After the Conquest, it was granted to
William de Warren, and afterwards alienated to the
family of Pierpoint. The present proprietor is Wil-
liam John Campion, Esq. The church consists of
a nave, a south aisle, a small north transept, and two
chancels ; and at the west end is a strong tower
with a wooden spire. Upon a tomb, in one of the
chancels, lies the effigies in armour of a warrior,
supposed to have been a Lord Dacre ; and under an
arch, in the same chancel, is the stone figure of a
warrior, supposed, from the position of his legs, to
have been a knight templar.
Lewes is the second town in the county for extent
and population, 40 miles E. by N. from Chichester,
and 49 S. by E. from London, is situated on a decli-
vity washed by the Ouse ; and, though not incorpo-
rated, is a borough by prescription, having returned
two members to parliament since the -23d of Ed-
ward 1. The right of election is vested in the inha-
bitants of the town paying scot and lot, in number
about 390 ; and the two principal municipal officers,
called constables, are annually chosen at the court -
leet. Antiquaries differ in opinion concerning the
origin of Lewes, and the derivation of its name.
Camden affirms that the latter comes from l^eicsn,
signifying pastures ; others suppose that it is nothing
more than a corruption of the Norman words Les
Eaux, having, in Doomsday Book, the Normano-
Latin appellation, Laquis. In the tenth century
Lewes had two mints, and, in the time of Edward
the Confessor, it paid a toll-tax of ft/. 4s. to the j
king, who had there 127 burgessea. At the Con-
quest, the manor was granted to William de War-
ren, Earl of Surrey, who built, or, as some say,
repaired the castle, and made it the principal seat
of his barony. In his descendants, the estate con-
tinued till about the reign of Henry III. ; when, by
the failure of male issue, Alice, daughter of the last
male heir, carried it into the Kitz-Alan family. The
castle, of which the great gateway alone is entire,
was of au irregular elliptical figure, and stood on
the east side of the town. Of the keeps which
stood at the extremities of the longest diauieter, one
is reduced to a fragment, and the other is fast verg-
ing to decay. Immense earth- works extended east-
ward from ibis building, traces of which, with the
ruinous remains of a wall, evince the existencfe
of a camp. In 1078, a priory, the first of the
Cluniac order in England, was founded by the first
Earl of Warren, and his wife Gundreda, the fifth
daughter of the Conqueror ; and filled with monk*
from the parent monastery. The prior of thi«
society claimed the privilege of being high cham-
berlain to the Abbot of Cluni, and was often hit
vicar-general in England, Scotland, and Ireland.
In the 24 Edward III. this priory was made indi-
genous. In the chapter-house were interred many
persons of distinction. The tomb of the founder
was of white marble. Gundreda, his wile, aild
many of his descendants, were also interred here ; as
was Richard Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel, who be-
queathed 200/. for the maintenance oi' two monks to
celebrate mass for the repose of his soul. An idea
of the magnificence of this foundation umy be iormed
from the o-ircumstance of its having" covered forty
acres of land. The dimensions of the church, ac-
cording to the 'report of one of the destroyers in
the time of the Protectorate of Cromwell, were: —
" length, 150 feet ; height, 03 ; circumference, 1558
feet ; thickness of the walls, 10 feet." This memoir
mentions 32 pillars of great hulk and height, live
chapels, and other particulars which demonstrate
the beauty ax well as the great extent ot'the church.
At the Dissolution, the revenues were valued at
920/. 4s. 6d. After that period, the Priory was
inhabited by the Earls of Dorset ; but, was at
length destroyed by fire. The present proprietor is
S. Durant, Esq. The remains of this once stately
pile are only the shells of some apartments, a cloister
with vaulted roofs, a large oven, and the piers of
the gate. Besides this priory, dedicated to St.
Pancras, some writers mention a priory of Grey
friars, a monastery, and an hospital. The town was
once strongly fortified ; and the piers of one of the
gates were existing at a recent period. Before the
Reformation, Lewes contained 12 parish churches ;
at present there are six, St. Peter's and St. Mary
Westont, now united and called St. Ann's, St.
Michael in Foro, St. John sub Castro, All Saints,
St. John Baptist, Southover, and St. Thomas in
the Cliffe. The church of St. John sub Castro is
situated near the castle, and in the centre of asmall
oval camp. The architecture of this edifice is rude,
and apparently belongs to the Saxon age ; but i»
defaced, or hidden by some repairs of the seventeenth
century, when it was also much contracted. One
very ancient inscription, preserved on the outside
of the south wall, deserves notice. There is no
date ; but the original characters are rudely and
deeply engraven, and seen to belong to the most
remote age of Saxon antiquity :
Clauclitur hie Miles, Danortim regia proles
Mangnus nomen ei, Mangnz nota pixweniei :
Depunens Mangnum, se moribus induu agnuoij
Prepete pro vita, fit parvulus anchgrita.
Tradition
38-1
SUSSEX.
Tradition makes this Mangnus one of the sons of
Harolil II., arid further says, that, having fled lo Ire-
land with his brothers, after the Conquest, he made
a descent on the English coast, where all his fol-
lowers were slain, aud himself made prisoner ; that,
subdued by the kindness with which he was treat-
ed, and anxious to expiate, by a life of penitence,
liis former life of hostility and rapine, he became a
monk in the strict sense of the word ; but that the
severe wounds he had received in the engagement,
soon sent him to repose in his grave. — St. John's
Southover is situated close to the gate of the priory,
and contains some stained glass, but is chiefly re-
markable for the tomb of Gundreda, daughter of the
Conqueror, and wife of William, Earl of Warren.
This stone, discovered about half a century ago, is
of black marble, and bears the following inscrip-
tion : —
Stirps Gundreda ducum, decus evi nobile germen,
Intulit ecclesiis Anglorum balsama morum ;
Martha fuit miseris ; fuit ex pielate Maria.
Para obiit Martlie, superest par! magna Marie.
O pie Pancrati, testis.pietalis et equi,
Te fecit heredein ; tu demons susoipe malrern.
Sexta kalfiularmn Junii lux obvia carnis
Ifregit alabastri - -
All Saints and St. Michael's in Foro have been
•ebuilt within the last half century. The church of
St. Thomas in the Cliffe is accounted one of the
neatest parish churches in the county. — The Presby-
terians, Quakers, Methodists, General and Particular
Baptists, and Calvinists, have places of worship at
Lewes. The Shire Hall, where the summer assizes
and quarter sessions are held, is a new and elegant
building. The House of Correction, built on the
plan of Howard, contains 32 cells, a chapel, and I
other accomodations for the prisoners, besides apart- i
nients for the keeper. The Free Grammar School j
was established in 1512. — Lewes has a neat theatre,
and assemblies are held in rooms at the Star Inn. i
The river Ouse, which flows through the town, is
navigable for barges to a distance of six miles i
northward from Lowes. The Race-Course is on a
bill about a mile from the town. The races are held
in August. This hill was the scene of an obstinate
battle fought by the forces of Henry III. aiid those
of Montfort, Earl of Leicester, on the 14th of May,
1264i One division of the royal army, commanded
by Prince Edward, was victorious ; the others, led
«n by the King and his brother, the Earl of Corn- ;
wall, were defeated, and the leaders made prisoners. :
In the sequel, the prince was left in the hands of
the barons, jas a hostage for the performance of con- '•
ditions subscribed to by his pusillanimous father. '•
Many of the slain were interred near the spot,
beneath mounds or tumuli, which are still distin- |
guishahle ; and a beacon, near the race-course, has
ever since borne the- name of Mount Harry. A mile
from the town, on the Brighton road, are the Bar-
racks, constructed of timber.
Newhaven, situated at the mouth "of the river
Ouse, was formerly a market-town, and noted for
the convenience and security of its harbour, which,
by the decay of the piers, and the consequent admis-
sion of sand, became choaked ; however, an act of
parliament having been obtained for the purpose, it
was cleared and improved, and is now a means of
prosperity to the town, and a secure shelter for
shipping. This harbour is defended by a small fort.
The inhabitants are devoted to maritime pursuits,
and vessels large enough for the West India tfade,
are sometimes built here. Near the church is a
handsome obelisk, erected to the memory of Captain
Hanson, and the crew of the Brazen sloop of war,
which was wrecked on this coast, January 25th, 1800.
The church is small and modern, and is remarkable
for nothing but its tower, which, contrary to custom,
is placed at the east end.
At Newtimher, is Newtimber Place, a brick man-
sion, encompassed by a moat, and the residence of
John Lewes Newnham, Esq.
Poynings was once the seat of the noble family of
that name, whose possessions descended to the Per-
cies, and were by them alienated to the Montagues,
whose last male heir dying without issue, the estate
fell to the crown. It is at present leased by W. S.
Poyntz, Esq. who married the sister of the last
Viscount Montague. — The church is a lofty edifice,
in the form of a cross, having, as is usual, a tower
in the centre ; and was founded in the reign of
Edward III. by Michael de Poynings, whose arms
are distinctly traced over the porch, and the great
window of the east chancel. There are many tombs,
but, for the most part without date, or other inscrip-
tion, the brass plates having been taken away. The
•windows contain some remains of stained glass.
On the east side of the church are the ruins of the
ancient mansion-house, consisting of some frag-
ments of walls and a square tower : tin's house, built
with flints, was destroyed about a century since,
before which period it was occasionally inhabited by
the Montague family. Near Poynings, is a remark-
able chasm in the Downs, known by the name of the
Devil's Dyke, a«d ascribed by popular tradition to
the agency of his Satanic majesty.
PEVENSEY.] — The rape of Pevens-ey stretches
across the county, and, on the north and south has
the same boundaries ; on the east, it is bounded by
Hastings ; and, on the west, by Lewes. The 18
hundreds, of which it is composed, contain fifty-four
parishes.
East Bourne, a village, situated near the foot of
the lofty hill which forms Beachy Head, became, a
few years since, the resort of persons of rank and
opulence for the purpose of sea-bathing. It con-
sists of four straggling divisions : Sea Houses, the
south-eastern extremity ; Meades, the south-western;
and South and East Bourne, at the distance of a
mile and a half from the sea. Between these last
is situated Compton Place, the elegant seat of Lord
George Cavendish. East Bourne is furnished with
the requisite sources of amusement, a theatre, ball-
room, and circulating library ; and enjoys the ad-
vantage of a chalybeate spring, which is said to be
efficacious
SUSSEX.
385
efficacious in all cases, for •which the Bristol waters
are recommended. The church consists of a nave,
chancel, and side aisle, separated by five high-
pointed arches. In one of the two chapels, appro-
priated as burial places of the lords of the. two
manors in this parish, are several handsome monu-
ments of the Burtons and Wilsons ; and, in the
other, of the Gildridge and Gilbert families. On a
black marble in the chancel, is an inscription for
Henry Lushington, D.D. * vicar of this parish,
and father of Sir Stephen Lushington, Bart, and
W. Lushington, Esq. Over this tomb is a marble
bust of his son Henry, who perished in India. Dr.
Tabor, a learned antiquary of the last century,
endeavoured to prove that East Bourne, or Esburn,
as he contends its name should be, is the Anderida of
the Notitia, the Anderisio of Ravennas, the Aridre-
decestre of Huntiugton, and the Mecredesburn,
where Ella defeated the Britons, in 472. In 1717, a
Roman pavement was discovered near the village, of
plain chequered work, with a bath and other remains.
— At Langley Point are two forts, and on Anthony
Hill, is a battery of heavy cannon. Westward from
Meades, commence the cliffs of Beachy Head, the
height of which is 575 feet. In the side of one of
these cliffs, above high water mark, is a cavern,
consisting of two apartments. This cave was made
by a clergyman of the name of Darby, who retired
hither to escape from the torment of a drunken and
termagant wife, and continued to reside till his
death, seldom appearing abroad but to perform the
duties of his function. Beachy Head is memorable
in history for having been the scene of a battle
between the combined Dutch and English fleets,
and that of France, June 30th, 1690 ; when the
French were victors.
East Grinstead, 45 miles N. E. by E. from Chi-
chester, has sent two members to parliament, since
the 1 Edward II. ; the right of voting belonging
to the burgage-holders thirty-six in number. The
town is irregularly built, on a hill, and has a hand-
some church, the tower of which has been twice
destroyed, once by lightning, which also melted the
bells ; and again, by its own weight, and the badness
of the materials, which caused its fall ; it is now
rebuilt in a stable and well proportioned form.
Among other monuments, is a brass plate, which
commemorates the foundress of the church, Kathe-
rine, daughter of Lord Scales. An institution,
called Sackville College, was erected about 1616,
by Richard, Earl of Dorset, who endowed it with a
yearly revenue of 330/. for the support of twenty-
four aged persons of both sexes, a warden, and two
assistants. A free-school was founded in 1768, by
Robert and Henry Payne, and endowed with a
* Henry Lushington, the eldest son of this gentleman, went
at an early age to India, and was one of the survivors of the
wretched persons thrust into the Black Hole at Calcutta. Having
been taken prisoner a second time, he was selected with two
other gentlemen to be inhumanly sacrificed ; but having wit-
•essed the fate of one of bis companions, the generous resolve
VOL. IV.— NO. 168.
suitable revenue. A ruinous castellated mansion,
a mile from the town, was built in the reign of
James I. by Sir Henry Corapton, and occupied at
a subsequent period by the Richards, a family of
French extraction. One of these latter, having been
accused of treasonable practices, and perhaps con-
scious that the imputation was not without founda-
tion, left the house and the country. Since that
time, the mansion has been suffered to decay. —
Kidbrook, an edifice of large dimensions, and
some elegance, is the seat of Lord Colchester, late
Speaker of the House of Commons. At Fletching,
is Sheffield Place, which, with the estate, has, since
the time of Edward the Confessor, belonged to
many noble persons, beginning with Earl Godwin,
and ending with Lord Sheffield, the present pro-
prietor. Of the first foundation of the house, nothing
is known. It formerly consisted of two quadrangles,
but few traces of the ancient structure remain, and
the greater part has been rebuilt by the present
owner. The gardens contain 100 acres, and the
park 500 or 600. Lord Sheffield is an agricul-
! lurist, and farms about 1400 acres of his own land,
but chiefly applies his attention to the breeding of
cattle, and the invention or improvement of farming
utensils. In 1771, two oak trees were cut down in
Sheffield Park, which contained 1440 feet of timber.
Fletchiug Church is built in the form of a cross,
and adorned with a handsome tower and spire. It
contains several ancient and interesting monuments ;
but the Gothic cemetery of the Sheffields chiefly
attracts attention. Here, with many of the Holroyd
family, were interred the remains of Gibbon, the
historian, whose memory is eulogized, in a long
Latin inscription, by Dr. Parr.
Near Frant are the ruins of Begeham, or Bay-
ham Abbey, one of the earliest foundations for monks
of the Pra:raonstratensian order. The edifice was
erected by Sir Robert de Thuinham, in 1200, and
continued to be inhabited until the 17 Henry VIII.
when Cardinal Wolsey obtained the revenue for the
endowment of his colleges. About 1714 it was pur-
chased by John Pratt, Esq. and from him it descend-
ed to Marquis Camden, who derives from it the title
of Viscount Bayham. These remains are consider-
able, consisting of the gateway, the nave of the
church, part of the refectory, some of the cloisters,
and several cellars, or appendages to the buttery.
The church is perfect in its outline, and principal
walls, and contains some beautiful Gothic windows.
The demesne round this venerable ruin is finely
varied with wood, water, and picturesque scenery.
Bridge Castle, the seat of the -Earl of Aberga-
venny, is also situated in this parish. The ancient
mansion, though only a hunting seat of the NevilU
to sell his life dearly, armed him with strength to wrest a sabre
from one of the seapoys, with which he killed three, and
wounded two others : such a deed would have operated
favourably on great minds ; but, it was only the signal for his
death.
5 E family,
386
SUSSEX.
family, was built on a large scale in the form of a
quadrangle. When Queen Elizabeth made a pro-
gress through Kent, in 1573, she was entertained
at Bridge six days, and gave audience there to the
French ambassador. The Castle is at present an
irregular edifice in the castellated style, embattled
and flanked with round towers. The site is an
eminence in the middle of a park, abounding in
•wood and water. In this park, which contains 2000
acres, are the remains of a Saxon fortification,
called Saxonbury Hill, and enclosing an area of
two acres, with but one outlet.
At Glynde, a pleasant village on the bank of the
Ouse, is the ancient seat of Lord Hampden, a noble
pile of the age of Queen Elizabeth. At an early
period it was the property of a family of its own
name, afterwards of the Walleys, then of the Mor-
leys, and, lastly, about 1080, of the Trevors, whose
descendant is the present proprietor. The church,
an edifice in the Grecian style, was finished in 1765,
and, like many others in the county, is built of flint,
faced with stone. Over the spacious portico, is a
large shield containing the arms of the see of Dur-
ham, impaling those of Trevor ; the east window is
adorned with stained glass, representing scriptural
and other subjects ; and, on a silver plate, is the
following memorial for the founder :—
RICHARD TREVOR,
Bishop of Durham,
Fourth sou of John Lord Trevor,
Born, Sept. 30, 1707,
Died, June 9, 1771.
Glynde Bourn, in this parish, has been for two
centuries the seat of the family of Hay, a member
of which, William Hay, Esq. * was, in the last cen-
tury, admired as a poet, and an elegant scholar.
At Hailsham, 12 miles from Lewes, the church
is the only object deserving of particular notice.
The period of its foundation is unknown ; but, in
the reign of Henry III. it was given to the prior
and convent of Michelham. It is a handsome edifice,
consisting of a nave and two aisles, but contains
HO monuments worth mentioning. Near the river
Cuckmere, are the remains of Michelham Priory,
a house for canons regular of the order of St.
Augustine, founded in the thirteenth century, by
Gilbert de Aquila, who endowed it largely with
possessions at Michelham, Legton, Pevensey, and
Hailsham. The site of the priory, its dependencies,
and the manor of Michelham, are now the property
of the Duke of Dorset, who has converted part of
the monastery into a farm-house. The remainder
consists of a noble tower, and a strong bridge over
the moat ; "and the principal parts of the ancient
edifice may be traced in some arches and pillars in
a side of the present house, the cellar and pantry
* This gentleman, deformed in his person, was one of the
few among that irritable class, who could support, 'and even
prompt the examination of natural defects of the person with
composure, almost with jocularity : he wrote an ingenious
of which shew some fine remains of vaulted stone
roofs, and the ornaments used in ancient crypts.
In that part of the parish of Lamberhurst which
is included in this rape, and on a small stream
which forms the boundary ot the county, is Scotney
Castle, an ancient castellated mansion, once the
abode of a family of that name, afterwards of the
Ashburnhaais, Archbishop Chicheley, and the Da-
rells successively, and at present of Edward Hus-
sey, Esq. Few remains of the ancient edifice exist ;
the modern house was erected, after a design of
Inigo Jones, by the Darells.
At Mayfield was once a palace of the Archbishops
of Canterbury, supposed to have been founded in
the tenth century, by St. Dunstan, who also erected
a church of wood. In 1389, this church, and almost
the whole village, were destroyed by fire. The man-
sion, with the manor, was surrendered by Arch-
bishop Cranmer to Henry VIII. and in the reign of
Elizabeth, they were the property of Sir Thomas
Greshatn. From that period the palace was the
property of various persons ; till a late alienation
transferred it to the hands of the Rev. Mr. Kerby,
Vicar of Mayfield. In the early part of the last
century, it was in a nearly perfect state ; but the
roof and floors being taken away, it decayed rapidly ;
the lofty stone arches however, are left, and the
east end has been been converted into a farm-bouse.
One large room retains the name of the Queen's
Chamber, from having been occupied by Elizabeth,
in a visit with which she honoured Sir Thomas
Gresham ; and another, called the Kitchen Cham-
ber, has the date 1371 engraved, near the fire-place.
The arches of the groat hall which remain, mark its
dimensions, 68 feet by 38 ; and at the upper end
was a seat for a throne, the stone fret-work of
whose back is yet visible on the wall.
Pevensey, now situated at some distance from the
ocean, which once flowed up to its site, and was the
source of its ancient importance, is a place of high
antiquity, supposed by Somnerto be the Anderida of
the Romans ; and by Usher to be the Caer Pensavel
Coit of the Britons. Here the Conqueror landed
his invading army. The Castle, from the quantity
of Roman bricks employed in its erection, is sup-
posed to have been constructed from the remains of
some Roman fortress. The external walls, with the
towers, which are nearly entire to the height of
twenty feet, inclose an area of seven acres. Within
is a small fortification, moated on two sides, of a
quadrangular form, with round towers, and entered
by a draw-bridge. In the area of the outer castle,
are two culverins, without carriages ; one, eleven
feet long, has a rose and crown, with the letters
E R ; the other, twelve feet long, is marked W P ;
and both are half buried in the soil, with their muz-
Essay on Deformity ; and among his poetical effusions, must
be noticed his Mount Caburn, descriptive of a hill in this
parish, in the manner of Cooper's Hill.
zles
SUSSEX.
387
zles to the sea. In an attempt about a century since,
to convey water from the moat into the town, it was
discovered that the walls of the castle were ten feet
thick, and erected on piles and planks, in which
there appeared to be no symptom of decay ; even
the leaves of plants found there were sound. The
Conqueror granted the town and castle of Pevensey
to his half brother Robert, created Earl of Corn-
wall, whose successor, William, having joined in a
conspiracy against Henry I. was by him banished ;
and Pevensey was given to Gilbert de Aquila,
whose descendant lost it in the reign of Henry III.
Edward III. gave it to his fourth son, John of
Gaunt, to whose duchy of Lancaster it has pro-
bably remained unmoved ever since. It was long
held under a lease by the Pelliams ; but resigned in
the middle of the last century to Spencer Compton,
Earl of Wilmington, on his being created Baron of
Pevensey. At the beginning of the 16th century,
was born, at this place, Andrew Borde, or as be
called himself Andreas Perforates, a traveller, and
physician to Henry VIII. His character and habits
•were eccentric, and led him to fairs, where his
jocoseness and qunint style of language obtained for
him the name of Merry Andrew, an appellation
since continued to all public buffoons. He died in
1549, in the Fleet Prison.
The little town of Rotherfield, 12 miles E. from
East Grinstead, is situated on a rising ground.
Near Castle Hill,, in this parish, rises the river
Rother, which, after various windings and turnings,
in an easterly direction, empties itself into the sea,
near Rye. The church is a large handsome struc-
ture, with a beautiful carved arched ceiling, and
a lofty spire, the highest in the county. It contains
a good ring of bells ; the tenor of which is considered
as one of the finest toned in the kingdom, weighing
upwards of two tons. It has also a set of chimes. —
About three miles to the westward, on an elevated
situation, is Crowborough Chapel, a chapel of ease
to the parish of Rotherfield. It is a handsome
modern built edifice of free stone, with a lofty spire.
Here is a large school house, built of free stone.
These structures were both erected in the year 1744,
pursuant to the will of the late Sir Henry Fermor,
Bart, and endowed with funds vested by him in the
Court of Chancery, for the education and cloathiug
of 40 poor boys belonging to the parish of Rother-
field. The term of their remaining in the school is
four years. Sir H. Fermor also bequeathed a stipu-
lated sum for the maintenance of a curate for the
service of the chapel.— The situation of Crowbo-
rough is highly picturesque, and the views are ex-
tensive. From the eminence, called the Beacon,
42 parish churches may be seen. The soil, till
lately, was, for many miles round, a barren waste ;
but, within the last 20 years, some spirited indivi-
duals have enclosed, and brought a great part into
cultivation ; and, at an immense expence, they have
paled in and planted many hundred acres with forest
trees, which are now in a very thriving state, and
the different foliage forms a most pleasing and lux-
uriant object in the spring.
About a quarter of a mile to the eastward of
Rothertield, 12 or 14 years ago, in a meadow, for-
merly a morass, was dug up, at the depth of 12 or 14
feet from the surface, an immense oak tree, nearly
70 feet in length, and of proportionate size, supposed
to have remained therefor many centuries, in a state
of preservation, as entire as the day on which it was
cut down. The bark was on, as were the leaves of
ivy, as perfect and as green as if the tree had been
standing. Mr. Humphrey, the proprietor, had a
part of it converted into several valuable pieces of
furniture.
About the year 800, lands, in the parish of Rother-
field, were given by Bethwald, Dnke of the South
Saxons, to the abbey of St. Dennis, in 'France ; a
convent of monks, from that house, having been
fixed here.
Seaford, now a small fishing village, 46 miles
E. by S. from Chichester, was once a member of
the Cinque-ports, and is said to have contained 'fire
churches and a chapel, until burned in a descent of
the French. It is still an incorporated borough, the
body corporate consisting of a bailiil', twelve jurats,
and an indefinite number of freemen. Two members
are returned to parliament, the right of electing whom
is enjoyed by the inhabitant housekeepers, paying
scot and lot, in number about 104 ; and the bailiff
is the returning officer. The church exhibits -traces
of great antiquity, but is made grotesque by the
patchwork of modern repairs. It consists of a nave,
chancel, and two aisles, supported by circular pillars,
on one of which is a representation of the Cruci-
fixion, and on others various emblematical figures.
The original chancel was burned with the town. A
few visitors resort to Seaford, during the summer,
and for their accommodation, three machines are
kept, and hot and cold baths have been erected. On
the beach is a fort; and a life-boat is kept for the
assistance and preservation of shipwrecked seamen.
— Corsica Hall, a brick mansion, westward from the
town, is the property of the Hon. Thomas Bowes.
Stanmer, although situated in the middle of Lewes
rape, belongs to Pevensey. The present mansion
was built, about 1724, by Henry Pelhara? Esq. whose
descendant, the Earl of Chichester, is the present
proprietor.
At Withyham, was situated Buckhurst, during
six centuries the estate of the Sackvilles, ancestors
of the ducal house of Dorset. Early in the 17th
century, a part of the mansion was removed for the
purpose of erecting a college at East Grinstead ;
the remaining portion is a tower of good masonry.
— Stoneland Park, in the immediate neighbourhood,
has for some years been inhabited by Lord Whit;-
worth, and the Duchess of Dorset, who have com-
pleted great improvements, and changed the name
to that of the adjacent demesne, Buckhurst Park,
part of which they have appropriated.
TABLE
388
SUSSEX.
TABLE OF DISTANCES.
The Names of the respective Towns are on the top and side, and the square where both meet gives the Distance.
Cliichest
er Di
stance from London Miles fci
10
Arum
lei 57
Mattel
)7
57
Battel
1!)
14
45
Billinghurst
<43
29
19
34
22
irighthelmstor
20
.8
39
15
10
Broadwater
„ ... . 57
55
u
s;,
J( i
8
35'Burwash
40
Cuckfitfld..
3:
23
4o
9
4
1530
"uckfiel
\ 40
49
»
10
38
9
28 17
8
East Bourne
64
48
',8
28
23
0
27 20
51
30
liast Grinsteac
34
39
29
22
22
5
2215
8
,0
10
Fletcl
Heathfield
50
40
9
37
2
30 5
4
13
19
13
Heathfie
(| 52
69
59
8
50
0
4213
8
IS
J6
"
14
P
64
Hinfield
55
45
4
4o
3
35 8
0
10
25
9
'
8 Hinfic
Id 47
2s
27
.34
7
5
1834
'2
35
18
7
i.
4037
Ho
Hurst Pierpoint.
30
IS
30
15
8
1228
7
20
8
0
.'.3
3528
13;
35
25
36
w
8
tfilfl
2 14
2!
10
14
34 IS
24
I0jl>ewes 49
\Iayfield
41
38 12
J3
24
32 7
3 19
14
10
5
10 13
2>
28 15 Mayfield 42
11
12';67
5
28
25
-5
s
50
35
39
4s
7355
22
28 3446 Midhurst ... . 50
60
50|7
50
35
45
0
38J24
27
27
15
10 12
43
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14
1260
f
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15
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4431
511
42
70 45 16
22!3040 5'54 Petworth . 49
Pulborougli
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S
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3!
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15 °5!35 12^50 5 Pulboroueh... ...50
iii e
4838 15
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2220
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22 1526
20,15| 3 46 17 3f> 35 Rotberfield 44
Rye...
80 7(
iu
5
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K
15
5425
4(
3020
11J16:66
35 '43^2 1 77' 5 73 55 24 Rye 63
4;
3
32-
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1-
2
ii
26 528
19
15
22 14
32
I?'l020 47^28 3y 302230 Seaford 60
2,
i 1
i4(
) 17
f
'
i
2025
3<
1!
27
4630
32
8111 292340 19 15^27 57 18'Shoreliam 5C
2-
U44,
i i:
K
1 4
3
ll|3f
24
IS
2£
5033
I:
8J13j2920'41 14 9 29|57 23 6Stej>nii)|T 51
Ticehurst r,
5
>45 123;
2
3;
28J2S
i;
If
E
18 13
32
25*20 5 50 I'-1 40 40 5 29 25'32 32 Ticehurst 4.'
Winchelsea
7
4
> 51.
1
52k
40 3(
3(
8 li
4:
4l3S;2479 8725525) 330'5'255 20jWinchelsea 6:
TAB!,,,
SUSSEX.
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391
WARWICKSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.
THIS county, situatednear the centre of England,
in a N. W. direction from the metropolis, is
bounded, on the north by Staffordshire and Lei-
cestershire ; on the east by Leicestershire, North-
amptonshire, and part of Oxfordshire; on the
south by Oxfordshire and Gloucestershire ; and, on
the west by Gloucestershire, Worcestershire, and
Staffordshire. In form, it approaches to an ellipsis ;
the greatest length of which, as stated by Murray,
is 51 1 miles ; and the greatest breadth 36. Its
superficial contents, according to the latest survey,
is 620,760 acres. It was anciently considered to be
divided into two parts, the Felden (or Champaign,)
and the Woodland. — The Avon formed the line
which separated these tracts, and the sylvan district
was denominated Arden, a term common among
the Celts for a forest. The Arden of this county
is asserted to have been the largest of the British
forests, as it extended from the banks of the Avon
to the Trent on the north, and to the Severn on the
•west : on the east the tract so termed was bounded
ty an imaginary line drawn from High Cross to
Burton. When England was divided into shires,
the counties of Worcester and Stafford took to them-
selves respective portions of this wild, and bestowed
on the forests so claimed the names by which they
are still distinguished ; the part remaining with
Warwickshire alone retained the (itle by which the
whole was originally known. This large division,
however, has been long cleared of those thick-
matted woods which formerly encumbered its soil ;
but a colouring of its pristine character remains ;
and an occasional air of wildness is found, to denote
the complexion of the country when occupied by
the Ceangi of the Coruavii, and their numerous
herds. The face of this county is agreeably diver-
sified by an alternation of hill and valley. The
highest points of land are at Corley, in Ilemling-
ford Hundred, and the neighbourhood of Packing-
ton. From this elevated ridge the water runs on
one side into the Avon, and thence to the Bristol
•Channel; on the other it descends to the Blythe,
Tame, Trent, and Humber at Hull. A ridge on
the south-east, including the Brailes and Edge-hills,
is, also, much elevated, and commands a variety
of pleasing' prospects. The insulated situation of
Warwickshire, and its freedom from any great in-
equalities of surface, render the climate mild, and
vegetation early. The most general winds are from
the south-west, and they are usually accompanied
with rain ; but, not unfrequently, the effects of an
easterly variation are felt towards the middle of May ;
and it scarcely need be remarked that vegetation
must in consequence suffer severely. Warwickshire,
upon the whole, however, is not to be considered as
subject to any particular excess of damp or frost.
SOIL.] — The soil of Warwickshire possesses the
quality of variety in a high degree : no arrangement
can be made whereby these varieties may be classed,
and exhibited under distinct heads, since many of
them often appear within the bounds of a single en-
closure. The greater part is well fitted for pur-
poses of culture; and the proportion of unproduc-
tive soil is inconsiderable, when compared with that
of other counties. The soil of Barlichway hundred,
is, for the most part, a strong clay loam, on lime-
stone rock ; of the country round Coventry,. a red,
deep, and rich sandy loam ; of Hemlingford hun-
dred, with large exceptions, a white and yellow
clay, or a dry sandy loam, both unfertile ; of Kine-
ton hundred, a clay loam of various strength on
limestone ; and of Knightlow hundred, a red clay
loam and sand, a strong clay loam or a light sand,
and sometimes a rich clay loam on limestone and
marie. Of this last district, it may be said, gene-
rally, that its soil is a clay of desirable strength.
AGRICULTURE.] — The obstacle to the classification
of soils forbids also a general description of the
systems of culture : each soil has its peculiar one.
In general the Warwjckshire farmers have not de-
parted from the good old ways of their forefathers,
and the modern system of drill-husbandry, with its
concomitant improvements, is but coldly received.
The crops, most generally raised, are wheat, bar-
ley, oats, peas, beans, vetches, and turnips : rye,
potatoes, and flax are partially cultivated. Murray
asserts,i that, " on the rich loams, there is a wheat-
season only once in six or eight years ;" and adds,
" that the culture of this valuable plant might be
considerably increased." The red lammas kind is
usually
392
WARWICKSHIRE.
usually preferred. Barley is principally raised on
the dry loams, after turnips, and produces from
five to six quarters per acre. The grey pea alone
is raised by the farmer, and is observed to thrive on
land manured with lime. '1 he beans are the common
tick and the horse-bean ; and both spring- and winter
vetches are extensively cultivated, either to beeatrn
by sheep on the land, or to be cut for farming horses.
Turnips are cultivated with some success, and are
sown by broad-cast. It has been computed that
the extent of meadow and pasture land in Warwick-
shire is 235,000 acres, and of artificial-grass land
60,000, making together 295,000 acres, of which
about 80,000 are annually mown. — The farms are
generally rather small than large ; but the system
of consolidation is gaining ground. A few years
ago, the average size of farms was about 150
acres; and-Murray considered that the average
rent of the county would not amount to more than
29s. a year. Few leases are granted.
CATTLE.] — The live-stock, like the soil, has uo
other character than that of extensive variety. The
long-horned cow is most commonly bred ; and the
"Warwickshire sheep, having been crossed with the
Leicester, are not inferior to any other in the island.
WOODS, WASTE LANDS, &c.] — The principal
woodlands are found in the-ueighbourhood of the
nncient forest district ; but every part of the county
is well stocked with mature oak timber, and flourish-
ing elms, whilst rising coppices promise an abundant
succession.
PLANTS.] — Of the principal plants in Warwick-
shire, a list will be found in the note below.*
MINERALS AND FOSSILS.] — These are coal, lime-
stone, free-stone, iron-stone, blue flag-stone, marie,
and blue clay. The best coal is found at Bedworth,
where the stratum is from three to four feet thick :
other pits are at Cliilvers Coton, Nuneaton Common,
Hunt's Hall, Oldbury, and Griff-hollow ; and the
average price at the pit is from Us. Sd. to 12s. per
*j4tropa Belladonna. Deadly Nightshade, or Dwale: in hedges
and on rubbish ; at Sutton Coldfield.
Cardamine amara. Kilter Cresses, or Ladies-sin ock : in damp
meadows and pastures ; at Middleton.
Carex vesicaria $. A variety of greater Bladder Carex ; in
several pools about Middleton.
Equisetum hyemale. Rough Horse-tail, or Shave-grass, in a
moist ditch at Middleton, towards Drayton.
. sylvaticum. Wood Horse-tail : in moist places, and
by the watery ditches by the woodside, on the
right hand, as you go from Middleton to Sut-
ton, a little before you come to the heath.
llydmim imbricatum. Common Hydnum : in a wood near
Middleton.
ffypockuris glabru. Smooth Hawk-weed : on the gravelly
grounds, near Middleton.
Ifaha Alcea, Vervain Mallow : in hedges, and at the sides
of fields.
Narcissus Pseudonarcistus. Wild English Daffodil : in some
pastures about Sutton Coldfield, on the East
side of the town plentifully.
Vununda Lunaria, Moonwort: found in several closes about
ton. The blue flag-stone, used in paving, is quar-
ried in the vicinity of Bidford and Wilnecote.
SPRINGS, LAKES, &c.] — At Leamington, is a medi-
cinal spring, efficacious in chronic disorders, cuta-
neous diseases, and obstructions of the viscera ; and
at Newnham-Regis, is a weak chalybeate spring,
once used for the cure of scorbutic complaints, but
now little resorted to. Artificial lakes, but of small
extent, have been formed in several parts of the
county.
RIVERS.] — Warwickshire is watered by numerous
streams, of which the principal are the Avon, the
Tame, the Learn, the Rea, the Stour, the Alne, the
Arrow, the Anker, the Blythe, the Swift, the Cole,
and the Dove. The Avon, termed also the Upper
Avon, is the first, both in magnitude and beauty,
among the rivers of Warwickshire. It rises at
Naseby in Northamptonshire, and enters this county
at Bensford Bridge. After receiving the tribute of
the Swift, it flows with many windings through a
picturesque country to Warwick, where it expands
to a breadth of 200 feet. Passing Fulbroke, the
scene of Shakspeare's juvenile exploits, it makes a
large sweep to the north, and approaches Stratford ;
whence it flows to Bidford, and soon leaves the
county. During this devious course it is joined
by the Dove, the Learn, the Stour, and the Alne.
About Rugby, the Avon is said to freeze first at
the bottom. It is navigable as high as Stratford.
The Tame rises near Coventry, and being joined
by the Blythe, the Rea, the Anker, and the Cole,
flows northward to the Trent.
CANALS.] — No county can boast of more nume-
rous facilities of this kind, than Warwickshire. The
Grand Junction Canal, which commences in the river
Thames, has for its chief object a communication
between the metropolis and the various canals of
the midland districts. The Birmingham old canal
extends from Aldersley, near Wolverhampton, to
the Birmingham and Fazeley Canal, near Birming-
Sutton Coldfield ; on the West side of the
town.
Osntunda regalis. Flowing Fern, or Osmund Royal ; on thfc
moist banks by the New Park at Middleton,
on that side next the London road.
Polygonua: bistortu. The greater Bislorl, or Snakeweed ; in
the meadows at Tamworth and Fazely.
Ribcsnigrum, Black Currants, or Scjuinancy-berries; in damp
woods, and on banks of rivers.
Scirpus sylvatictts. Millet cyperus-gra«s ; frequently by the
river Tame side, near Tamworth, and else-
where.
Schcenus mariscus. Long-rooted Bastard Cyperus ; in boggy
places by the river Tame, near Tamworth.
Turritus glabra. Great Tower Mustard; on Dorsthill-hili,
near Tamworth.
Vaccinium vitis idee. Red Whorls, or Whortle berries ; on
the black boggy heaths between Middleton
and Sutton.
oxycoccus. Cranberries, Moss-berries, or Moor-
berries : in the moorish grounds and quag-
mires, in Sutton Coldfield park, plentifully.
hum.
WARWICKSHIRE.
393
ham. By this canal, coals arc conveyed from the
mines o\\ its banks, and the manufactures of Bir-
mingham are forwarded to Liverpool and Man-
chester. The Birmingham and Fazely Canal joins
those two places ; and conveys the goods of the
former towards Hull. The Warwick and Birming-
ham Canal supplies the town of Warwick with
coals. The Worcester and Birmingham Canal is a
channel for the export of coals. The Coventry
Canal is a link in the chain of communication
between London, Birmingham, Liverpool, &c. and
extends from Fazeley to the Oxford Canal, at Long-
ford. It has several branches to mines or canals in
the neighbourhood ; and the cut from Longford to
Coventry is 4f miles in length. The Warwick and
Napton Canal extends from the Warwick and Bir-
mingham to the Oxford, at Napton-on-the-Hill.
The Slratford Canal commences in the Worcester
and Birmingham, at King's Norton, and terminates
in the Avon at Stratford, where it opens a commu-
nication with the Bristol Channel. The first boat
passed out of the canal into the Avon, on the 24th
of June, 1816. Ashby-de-la-Zouch Canal com-
mences in the Coventry at Marston Bridge, ter-
minates in a rail-way at Tichnall lime- works, and
is remarkable for the extensive level through which
it flows.
ROADS.] — The roads of this commercial district
are not neglected ; the materials principally used
are lime-stone and gravel. The cross roads alone,
and those in which the manufacturing part of the
community have no interest, exhibit some of the
roughness of past ages.
TRADE, MANUFACTURES, &c.] — The .various manu-
factures of this county will be mentioned under the
heads of the places in which they are carried on.
The manufactory of hardware goods at Birming-
ham has obtained for that town the appellation of
" the Toy-shop of Europe." The manufacture of
ribbons employs not fewer than 16,000 persons in
the vicinity of Coventry ; and the making of watches,
is so extensively and successfully carried on there,
that Coventry is not excelled by London itself. At
Kenilvvorth, combs are made ; at Warwick, stock-
ings ; cotton goods, at Manchester ; and needles,
at Alcester. In other districts are considerable flax
manufactures, and much linen yarn is spun.
, ETYMOLOGY,GENERAL HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES,&C.]
—The Saxon name of the city of Warwick, from which
the county takes its name, was Weringscyre, signi-
fying a station of soldiers. At the descent of the
Romans, two nations, or tribes, divided the soil of
Warwickshire ; the Cornavii, or Carnabii, and the
Wigantes, or Wiccii. The former possessed all
Statt'ordshire and Cheshire ; those parts of Shrop-
shire which lie to the north and east of the Severn ;
and small portions of Flintshire and Leicestershire.
Whitaker observes, " that these, and the Britons of
Cornwall in the south-western regions of the island,
and those of Caithness in the north-eastern, are all
equally called Carnabii by Richard. All of them
were named, we may be sure, from some one striking
VOL. rv.— NO. 169.
circumstance of position or origin, which was com-
mon to them all. The Carnabii of Cornwall and
Caithness inhabited a region exactly similar in this
great particular, that, open upon one side, it nar-
rowed gradually on the other, and shot out in a
promontory into the sea. Such a projection the
Britons called a Kerenab, or an horn of the sea.
And from this, the common and significative cha-
racteristic of the two counties, the two tribes that
possessed them would naturally be denominated.
The Carnabii are expressly declared by Richard to
have been originally situated in the neighbourhood
of the Dee. And we have a region there similar
to those of Cornwall and Caithness, open on one
side, narrowing on the 'other, and shooting out into
the sea." The dominions of the Carnabii appear to
have reached across the whole extent of Warwick-
shire, as that people enjoyed Bcnnonae, or Cley-
chester, on the skirts of the neighbouring county of
Leicester. They had for their capital, at the time of
the Roman invasion, Uriconium, or Wroxeter, in
Shropshire. — The Wigantes, or Wiccii, are the
Jugantes of Tacitus ; a warlike tribe, as is expressed
by their name. Besides their possessions in this
county, their dominions extended over Worcester-
shire and the north of Gloucestershire. These tribes
maintained a strict friendship with their neighbours,
the Iceni and Cor-Iceni, and were in some measure
subjected to the Roman sway at the same period
with those states by Ostorius Scapula. — It was in
the ^year 50 that Ostorius first visited the Arden of
Warwickshire. He led his troops from the banks
of the southern Ouse, taking in his northward pro-
gress the course of the Watling Street, and pro-
bably fixing his encampments on the sites of British
stations. In order to increase this security, and to
extend the line of military communication, he con-
structed forts and entrenched camps along the banks
of the rivers Avon and Severn. — Cogidunus, who
had been originally King of the Dobuni, was not
only permitted by the Romans to retain nominal
authority, or, in other words, to become an imperial
legate, but had various extents of country added to
his dominions. Among these was a part of War-
wickshire ; and he retained his titular supremacy to
the days of Trajan. When Severus, in the begin-
ning of the third century, divided the Roman terri-
tories, in Britain into two provinces, the greater
part of this county was comprehended in Britannia
Secunda. — On the formation of the heptarchy, War-
wickshire was constituted a part of the kingdom of
Mercia ; the kings of which often maintained the
rude pomp of their court in this county. Tamworth
was a favourite seat with several sovereigns, until
that town was destroyed by the Danes. Warwick
and Kingsbury were also regal abodes. At the
battle of Seckington, Ethelbald, the tenth King of
Mercia, fought Cuthred, King of the West-Saxons,
and was slain by Burgred, his own officer. — The
Danes committed great ravages in Warwickshire ;
and, in the course of their several irruptions,
burned and destroyed the principal towns. — During
5 G the
394
WARWICKSHIRE.
the war of the roses, this district lost some of its
best blood in the field, though it. was not the imme-
diate scene of any important action. As the chief
members of the house of Nevill, of which the Earl
of Warwick was a distinguished branch, supported
the pretensions of the Duke of York, it will readily
be supposed that the York faction was strong in the
county. The town of Warwick was swayed by its
Earl ; but the city of Coventry had equally strong
reasons for attachment to the house of Lancaster.
Henry and Margaret had won the esteem of the
inhabitants by frequent visits, and had conferred on
them a particular favour, in constituting their city
and some neighbouring parishes, a separate county.
The citizens were firm in affection and gratitude.
In 1460, when a strong power, under the Earl of
Warwick and the Earl of Marche, (afterwards Ed-
ward IV.) proceeded from London in search of the
royal forces, the Lancastrians were quartered in
Coventry. They shortly, however, quitted that
city, and the battle of Northampton ensued. In
1470, the Earl of Warwick, then a partisan of the
Lancastrians, possessed himself of Coventry ; and
the citizens refused admission to Edward IV. That
king, however, met with a friendly reception in the
town of Warwick. When Richard III. took arms
to oppose the pretensions of the Earl of Richmond,
the sheriff' of this county levied men for his use. —
In the seventeenth century, the inhabitants of War-
wickshire evinced a greater unanimity of sentiment.
Some cavaliers were found ready to adventure life
and fortune in support of their king ; hut these were
few in number. The castle of Warwick, situated
near the centre of the kingdom, and strong by nature
and art, was a convenient place of arms ; and the
possession of such a garrison gave confidence to
the first hostile movements of the parliament. The
flame of opposition spread through every town ; and
no county exhibited a more decided inclination to
take an active part in the sanguinary business of the
season. In June and July, 1042, Lord Brooke
arrayed the militia of Warwickshire, in attention
to a commission received from the parliament ; and,
in the month of October following, was fought the
first great battle between the opposed parties, at
Edgebill. On this eventful day Lord Brooke's own
regiment, composed of prime Warwickshire men,
fought in the right wing, a division which entirely
broke the left of the king's army. In January, 104-2-3,
his lordship was appointed general and Commander-
in-chief (under the Earl of tissex,) of the associated
counties of Warwick and Stafford. At different
periods of this war, the castle of Warwick sustain-
ed a siege, the town of Birmingham was fired by
the troops under Prince Rupert, and many inferior
skirmishes took place. During these scenes of vio-
lence some rcliii'Loi's structures, and numerous man-
sions of the gentr , suffered dilapidation. After the j
battle of Naseby', Warwickshire remained under j
the quiet control of the parliament, until the Resto- I
ration.
Mr. Shaw, in his history of Staffordshire, con-
jectures that the chief seat of the Arch-Druid of
Britain was situated in the vicinity of Sutton-Cold-
field ; but we find few vestiges that can be safely
ascribed to the Britons. The Romans worked for
posterity ; and their connexion with Warwickshire
is obvious in all its districts. Their roads form the
most interesting relics of this people. The Watling
Street, divides this county from Leicestershire on
the north-east. From Weedon to the lordship of
Lilborn, it is only a private road, though distinctly
marked and well known. It then, for a few miles,
forms the public way between Daventry and Lut-
terworth ; when it again becomes private, and so
continues till it reaches High Cross. The turnpike-
road from Lutterworth to Atherstone then passes
over it, for about two miles of its progress towards
Hinckley ; and returning to it again about two miles
from Hinckley, continues along it to Atherstone.
Beyond Atherstone it is in good repair ; and, pro-
ceeding by Hints, Weeford, and Wall, the ancient
station of Etocetum, it shortly becomes the basis of
the great Chester road, on its way for Ireland. The
Foss-way intersects the Watling Street at High
Cross ; passes near Monk's Kirby and Stretton ;
goes through Brinklow, Bretford on the river Avon,
and Stretton-upon-Dunsmoor ; and then crossing
the river Learn, to the west of Martin, it leaves
Chesterton, Lighthorne, and Combrooke to the east,
and Stretton-on-Foss to the west, near which it
enters Gloucestershire. This road supposed to have
been constructed in the third consulship of Adrian,
is still firm through many parts of its progress.
The Jcknield Street enters this county on the south,
and is distinguishable in the neighbourhood of Bid-
ford. Between Wixford and Alcester there seem
to be no traces ; but, to the north of the latter place,
it again rises to notice, and is known by the name
of the Haden-way. After passing Studley it enters a
recess of Worcestershire, and returns in the vicinity
of Birmingham. Touching the margin of Stafford-
shire, it proceeds to Sutton Park ; and at Wall, in
Staffordshire, it meets the Watling Street. A minor
road, termed the Ridgeway, likewise borders part
of Warwickshire on the east ; and several branches
appear to have diverged from each of the great tracts.
— The remains of various camps constructed by the
Romans are found, in different stages of preserva-
tion. The chief of these are seen on the Foss-way,
where places of entertainment were formed for the
accommodation of troops in their marches ; and on
the banks of the river Avon, where Ostorius arranged
a chain of minor fortifications to keep the natives
in awe. Many tumuli are found in the neighbour-
hood of the roads and camps ; and coins, and other
vestiges of the Romans, have been discovered in
nearly every district. — There are few military re-
mains of the Saxons and Danes. The relics of
Saxon architecture, far from numerous, are by rib
means conspicuous for the rude, but commanding
grandeur of effect sometimes produced by that people.
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.] — Six mem-
bers are returned to parliament, from this county :
2 for
WARWICKSHIRE.
305
2 for the shire ; 2 for the city of Coventry ; and 2
for liie town of Warwick.
MARKET TOWNS, &c.] — The following are the
market towns of this county, with their population :
Population.
Towns, ifC. Market Days. 1801 1811
Alcesler Tuesday 1628 1S62
Atherstone Tuesday 2650 2921
Birmingham Thursday 60,822 85,753
Coleshill Wednesday 1437 1639
Coventry Friday 16,034 17,923
Henley Monday 1098 1055
Kington Tuesday 779 801
Nuneaton Saturday 4769 4947
Rugby Saturday 14S7 1805
Southam Monday 935 1007
Stratford Thursday 2118 2842
Sutton Coldfield...... .Monday 2847 2959
Warwick Saturday 5592 6497
FAIRS.] — Athenians. — April 7, for horses, cows,
and sheep ; July 18, a holyday fair only ; Septem-
ber 19, for horses, cows, and considerable for cheese ;
December 4, for horses and fat cattle.
Alcester — Tuesday before March 25, May 18,
October 17, for cheese and horses, second Tuesday
in July.
Birmingham — Thursday in Witsun-week, Sep-
tember 29, for hardware, cattle, sheep, and horses.
Brailei — Easter Tuesday, for horses, cows, and
sheep.
Coleshill— Shrove Monday, for horses ; May 6,
for horses and cattle ; Wednesday after New Mi-
chaelmas, all sorts of cattle.
Coventry — Second Friday after Ash Wednesday,
for linen and woollen cloth ; May 2, .for horses, cows,
and sheep ; Friday in Trinity week, for flannels,
linen, and woollen for eight days : first day repre-
senting Lady Godiva on horseback ; August 26, 27,
and November 1,. for linen, woollen, and horses.
Henley-iH-Arden—ltiiAy Day, March 25, Tuesday
in Whitsun week, for a week, for cattle ; Oct. 29,
horses, cattle, sheep, aud hops.
Ketrilrsorth — April 30, Sept. 30, cattle and pedlary.
Kinelon, or Kiiigton — St. Paul, January 25, seed
and corn ; St. Luke, October 18, cattle and cheese.
Nuneaton— February 18, May 14, October 31, for
horses, cows, and sheep : if October 31 happens ou
a Sunday, then the day before.
Rugby — February 17, March 31, May 15, July 7,
August 21, November 22, Monday before St. Mi-
chael, September 29, horses, cows, sheep, and
cheese ; December 10, cattle, &c.
Solihuli — May 10, October 10, cattle, sheep, and
horses ; April 29, October 12, for cheese, hops, and
cattle.
Southam — Easter Monday, Monday after Holy
Thursday, July 10, horses, cows, and sheep ; First
Monday in October, and first Monday in Lent,
cattle and sheep.
Stratford-on-Avon — Thursday after March 25,
cattle, sheep, and pedlary ; May 14, September 25,
Thursday after September 25, for cloth, cheese,
seed, wheat, hops, and all sorts of cattle. The
day after the last is a statute for hiring servants.
Sulton — Trinity Monday, November 8, for sheep
and cattle.
WARWICK — Third Monday in January, second
Monday in February, Monday before April 5 ; First
Saturday in Lent, May 12, first Monday in June,
July 5, for horses, cows, and sheep ; Second Mon-
day in August, September 4, horses, cows, sheep,
and cheese ; October 12, statute ; November 8,
horses, cows, and sheep ; Monday before St.
Thomas, December 21, cattle, sheep, &c.
POPULATION.] — In the year 1700, the population
of this county was estimated at 96,000 ; in 1750, at
140,000; in 1801, at 215,100; and, in 1811, at.
236,400 ; in the two latter periods, a 30th of the
returns of the resident population having been
added, as the presumed number then absent on
service in the army and navy. — The proportion of
births, in tliis county, is as 1 to 35 ; of marriages,
as 1 to 116 ; and of deaths, as 1 to 42.
Summary nf the Population of the County of WARWICK, as published by Authority of Parliament, in 1811.
HUNDREDS, &c.
. HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
Inhabited.
P,
5 SU
°~"o.
a
bh
c
2
'5
05
Uninhabited.
Families chiefly
employed in
Agriculture.
»~i ,
"S = 2 u
'-H-o j«<J8
2£.SK.
J=-S J?^
£ if 2 1
,™ v ;_ i ^2
All other Fami-
lies not com prised
in the two pre-
cedingClasses.
Males.
Females.
Tolal
of
Persons.
4233
7252
4066
6841
16653
3448
1196
1251
4527
7932
4386
7262
18165
4096
1263
1435
26
29
23
65
140
12
o
11
119
145
99
153
278
50
44
21
2603
3951
3077
4379
589
125
290
119
1187
3325
890
2254
17294
3207
851
767
737
656
419
629
282
766
122
549
10443
17717
9555
16532
40518
8197
2554
3012
1011
10961
19298
9904
1723T
&
. ->310
J485
21404
37015
19459
33809
85753
17923
5864
6497
1011
Totals
44940
49066
308
91)9
15131
29775
4160
1 09539
119196
228735
GENERA;.
396
WARWICKSHIRE.
GENERAL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIQNS.] — At
tlie time of the Doomsday Survey, this county was
divided into 10 hundreds ; but it has now only four,
•which, however, are subdivided, for convenience,
into 18 parts. The city and county of Coventry
are frequently considered as a fifth hundred. — \Var-
wicksliire contains 200 parishes, and nine parts of
parishes ; the whole is in the province of Canter-
bury, and in -the dioceses of Lichfield and Coventry,
and Worcester ; and it has 4 petty sessions, and 40
acting county magistrates.
HUNDREDS, TOWNS, &c.
BARLICHWAY.] — The hundred of Barlichway,
bounded, on the north by Kington and Hemlingford ;
on the east, by Knightlow and Kington ; on the
south, by the counties of Gloucester and Worcester;
and on the west, by Worcestershire ; comprises the
four divisions of Alcester, Henley, Snitterfield and
Stratford.
Alcester division contains the following parishes
and hamlets : — Alcester, Alne, Arrow, Coughton,
Ipsley, Kinwarton, Milcot, Morton Bagot, Sam-
bourn, Spernall, Studley, Tardebigg, Tutnal and
Cobley, and Wetheley.
Alcester, 16 miles W. S. W. from Warwick, near
the confluence of the Alne and the Arrow, on the
border of the county, is confidently asserted to have
been a Roman station ; and, indeed, abundant proofs
are not wanting to countenance the supposition : old
foundations of houses, Roman bricks, coins, urns,
and human remains have been frequently discovered ;
nnd its name, compounded of that of the neighbour-
ing stream, and of the Saxon word " cestre," a for-
tified place ; with the circumstance of its being
situated on the Roman way, called Icknield Street,
leaves little doubt concerning its antiquity, or its
founders. In the reign of Henry I. it was a borough ;
during that of Henry II. it paid four marks aid to
the king ; and, in the intermediate one of Stephen,
a monastery was founded. The manor was the pro-
perty of the Beauchamps and the Greviles succes-
sively. The principal houses exhibit the massy style
of ancient days, and evince the commercial import-
ance of the place in the 16th and 17th centuries.
The church, a plain but neat structure, contains
the altar-tomb of " Sir Foulke Greyvill," and of
the Lady Elizabeth his wife. The market-hall is
a neat building, with a colonnade. The site of the
monastery, half surrounded by the Arrow, and once
wholly so by a moat, lies northward from the town,
and comprehends an area of two acres, within which
a few sepulchral remains are sometimes found. A
free-school was founded, in the reign of Elizabeth ;
and about one-third of the whole population find,
employment in the manufacture of needles. — Beau-
champ Court, the residence of the Beauchamps and
* Tliis gentleman, the friend of Shenstone, was educated at
University College, Oxford, look orders, and obtained ilie
vicarage of Snitterfield, and the living of Kilmcote. He died
the Greviles, from which the Earl of Warwick takes
the title of baron, stood on the western bank of
the Arrow. -Ragley Hall, the seat of the Marquis
of Hertford, situated in a park, beautified by a
nice disposition of wood and water, displays great
architectural elegance, and contains some good pic-
tures.
At Coughton, is an ancient mansion of the
Throckmortons, lords of the manor since the reign
of Henry IV. This was originally quadrangular;
but one side having been removed, a view is ob-
tained of a delicious champaigne, watered by the
little river Arrow. The church contains several
monuments for different members of this family. —
Hewell Grange, the seat of the Earl of Plymouth,
situated in a detached portion of the county, com-
pletely surrounded by Worcestershire ; having be-
longed to the monastery of Bordesley, was, at the
Dissolution, granted to Lord Windsor, an ancestor
of the present proprietor.
Milcott is a hamlet of the parish of Weston-upon-
Avon, in Gloucestershire, and was long the seat of
a branch of the Grevile family ; of whose manorial
residence few remains exist, except the moat.
Henley division comprehends Aspley, Beaudesert,
Claverdon, Fordhall, Henley in Arden, Langley,
Pindley, Preston -Bagot, Rowington, Ullenhall,
and Wootten-Wawen.
Beaudesert is situated in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of Henley, and had once a castle, which
was founded, soon after the Conquest, by Thurstane
de Montfort, and continued to be the principal re-
sidence of his descendants for many ages. In the
neighbourhood was born, in 1715. Richard Jago *,
whose father was rector of Beaudesert.
The market-town of Henley in Arden, 10£ miles
W. by N. from Warwick, is a hamlet of the exten-
sive parish of Wootten-Wawen ; and had a market
at an early period. The Botelers were long lords
of the manor and obtained various grants for the
benefit and prosperity of the place. The church is
a neat edifice, of the reign of Edward III. ; and
the market-cross is curiously decorated with emble-
matic figures of the Holy Trinity, the Crucifixion,
and St. Peter.
At Pindley, was formerly a nunnery of the order
of Benedictines, founded after the Conquest. A
few mutilated remains exist ; but have been long
used as offices to a neighbouring farm-house.
Wootten-Wawen derived the latter part of its
appellation from the name of a man who possessed
the manor before the Conquest. After that period,
it was the property of the De Staffbrds, until the
attainder of Edward, Duke of Buckingham, in the
reign of Henry VIII. Since which event, it has
belonged to the Smythes, who have here a handsome
and commodious mansion. The De Staffords
in 1781. His best pieces are: — Edgehill, a descriptive poem
in blank verse ; the Blackbirds, an" Elegy ; the Swallows and
Goldfinches; and the Fable of Labour and Genius.
.founded
WARWICKSHIRE.
founded a small Benedictine priory, which, after
having undergone many reverses of fortune, was
appended, by Henry. -VI. to his collegiate founda-
tion at Cambridge.
gnitterfield division comprises the parishes and
hamlets of Alveston, Bearley, Beausall Budbroke,
Fulbroke, Hampton Lucy, Hazeley, Hatton, Honi-
ley, Loxley, Norton Lindsey, Sherbourne, Shrew-
ley, Snitterfield, Wolverton, and Wroxall.
Aiveston, situated on the Avon, is a spot so agree-
able and salubrious, that it was called by Dr. Perry
the Monipellier of England. Westward from this
place, at a short distance, .are Welcombe Hills, the
scene of many furious struggles between the, Britons
and their Saxon invaders, whose entrenchments,
termed the Dingles, are still distinctly visible.
Fulbroke, which now consists of a few mean and
scattered dwellings, once boasted a numerous popu-
lation. The manor was the property of the Regent
of France, John, Duke of Bedford, who built a
castle of brick and stone ; afterwards of the Comp-
tons ; and, in the reign of Mary, of the Lucys, who
retained it till the beginning of the eighteenth cen-
tury. It now belongs to the Fullertoiis. Fulbroke
Park is supposed to have been the scene of Shak-
speare's well-known exploit, which first caused his
genius to emerge from the obscurity in which, but
for that, it might have remained buried; thus de-
priving that age of the honour of having given birth
to, and posterity of the delight of admiring, one
whose name is another word for excellence in dra-
matic composition.
At Hatton, the church and various lands were
granted to the nunnery of Wroxall, to which they
continued to belong till the Dissolution. At the
parsonage resides the Rev. Dr. Parr, one of the
luminaries of the literary world. — Near Hatton, is
Grove Park, the seat of the late Lord Dormer.
At Wroxall, a nunnery of Benedictines was found-
ed in the reign of Stephen. In 1713, the manor,
•with the seat, was purchased by Sir Christopher
Wren, whose descendant is the present proprietor.
Stratford division comprehends Aston Cantlow,
Bickmersh and Little Dorsington, Bidford, Billes-
ley, Binton, Exhall, Haselor, Luddington, Overs-
ley, Saltbrd-Prior, Stratford-on-Avon, Stratford,
old, Temple Grafton with Arden, and Wixford.
Bidford, a village on the north bank of the Avon,
six miles from Stratford, was once a market-town,
and belonged to the king. It is said that at this
village was an association of topers who frequently
dared the drunkards of neighbouring parishes to a
trial of prowess ; that some rakes of Stratford,
having accepted the challenge, and been defeated,
on their return, lay down under an old crab-tree,
where they slept till the morning ; and that Shak-
speare (who must needs be one of them) being asked
to renew the contest, answered, " in noble rhyme,"
that he would not, adding that he had drunk with
Piping Pcb-xorth, Dancing Marston,
Haunted HlUbro', Hungry Grafton.
6 tOL. IV.— NO. 109.
Digging Erlmll, Papist ._..„
Beggarly Broom, and Drunken J&djord.
Bidford-Grange is a spacious mansion, the pro-
perty of the Skipworth family ; once an appendage
of Bordesley Abbey ; and now occupied, one half
by the clergyman of the parish, the other by a
farmer.
•Charlecote, the seat of the Rev. John Lucy, is
situated on the east bank of the Avon, four miles
from Stratford. This spot, the ancient residence of
the De Charlecotes, who assumed the surname of
1 Lucy in the twelfth century, was the seat of Sic
I Thomas Lucy, satirized by Shakspeare as Justice
Shallow. The mansion erected by this intellectual
knight is yet standing, a fine specimen of Hie
.domestic architecture of the age. In the church
are several monuments of the Lucy family ; and on
that of Sir Thomas is an epitaph in honour of his
wife, written by himself, in terms so tender and well
chosen as almost to belie the caricature which has
so long amused the world.
Clopton-house, a venerable mansion of the fifteenth
century, was, with the manor, for many ages, the
residence of a family who bore its name, and whosft
lost descendant gave her hand to Sir George Carew,
created Baron Carew of Clopton. This nobleman,
whose handsome monument stands at the east end
of Stratford church, died without legitimate issue
in 1629.
Shottery, a small village, a mile from Stratford,
is supposed to be the place where Shakspeare wooed
his wife, who resided there, in a small cottage.
Several articles, as a chair, a small purse of bugles,
an ink-stand, and a pair of fringed gloves, are cur-
rently reported to have belonged to the bard, and
were, in consequence, purchased a few years since,
by some warm admirers of his muse.
Stratford-on-Avou, eight miles S. W. from War-
wick, and 94 N. W. by W. from London, is, as its
name expresses, seated on the Avon, near the west-
ern border of the county. It was a place of some
note three centuries anterior to the Conquest, a
monastery having been founded there at the first
conversion of the Saxons to Christianity. This
monastery, with the town, both before and after the
Conquest, was appended to the see of Worcester.
The bishops procured at various times, considerable
privileges for the inhabitants, as the frequent hold-
ing of fairs and markets. In the reign of Edward VI.
the manor was alienated to the Earl of Warwick,
afterwards Duke of Northumberland; and Charles II.
granted it to the Earl of Dorset, whose descendant,
the Duke of Dorset, is the present proprietor. In
the reign of Elizabeth, the town was much damaged
by two fires, which consumed 254 houses, and
caused great distress to the inhabitants. In 1642-3
the town was occupied, and the bridge broken down
by the Parliamentarians ; and, in 1643, Queen Hen«-
rietta resided at Now Place three weeks, attended
by a body of 4000 or 5000 men, who proceeded
5 u thence
398
WARWICKSHIRE.
thence to Edgehill. Since tlie beginning of (lie
last century, annual crowds of pilgrims have re-
sorted to the scenes where Shakspeare drew his infant
breath ; and where, after he had reared for himself
a lasting monument of sublime emanations, his
mortal part was consigned to its parent dust. In
1769, the celebrated Garrick instituted a festival at
Stratford, in honour of Skakspeare. An octangular
arena was constructed sufficiently capacious to con-
tain 1000 persons, and adorned with a statue of the
bard. An oratorio was performed; and during three
days, the amusements consisted of public breakfasts,
ordinaries, assemblies, masquerades, recitations,
fire-works, and horse-races. The town was illu-
minated ; cannon were fired ; and bands of music
paraded the streets.— Stratford consists of twelve
principal streets, well paved, and extremely clean.
Several houses remain, which must be of a date
prior to the birth of the poet, and among these, is
the house in which he was born. This building,
situated in Henley Street, was the property of the
Hart family, descended from Joan, the sister of
Shakspeare, till 1806, when it was sold ; and it is
now divided into two tenements : the one occupied
by a butcher, the other by a publican. In the
butcher's half, the ancient front and internal struc-
ture are preserved. — New Place, the residence of
our poet, after he had acquired affluence, and re-
tired from the more busy scenes of life, was built
in the reign of Henry VII. by one of the Cloptons,
and was probably the best house in the place.
iShakspenre gave it to his daughter, Mrs. Hall, the
trustees of whose daughter, Lady Barnard, sold it
to Sir Edward Walker. The daughter of this
gentleman married Sir John Clopton, who gave it
to his younger son ; at whose death, it was sold to
a person of the name of Gastrell, who, all unable
to appreciate the treasure he possessed, and grudg-
ing the few expences, attendant on his charge,
caused it to be razed, disposed of the materials, and
left Stratford amidst the rage and curses of the in-
habitants. The site is now a garden, the property
of Battersbie and Morris, bankers. The celebrated
mulberry tree, planted by Shakspeare's hand, be-
came an object of dislike to Gastrell, because it
subjected him to the disagreeable inquiries of tra-
vellers, &c. and he caused it to be cut down, and
cleft for fire-wood. The greater part was, however,
purchased by an inhabitant, who manufactured it
into small boxes, goblets, &c. Opposite to the site
of New Place, is a house bearing Shakspeare's crest,
the Falcon, as a sign, end traditionally reported to
have been frequented by the bard for convivial pur-
poses : there is, however, no proof that it was a
public-house in his time. — The church of Stratford,
» spacious and venerable structure, is cruciform,
and surmounted by a low square tower, and a spire
of octangular form. For the most part, the style
of building belongs to the 14th and loth centuries.
It is seated close to the Avon, unbosomed in aged
elms, and approached by a sombre avenue of lime-
trees. The interior consists of a nnvc, two aisleg,
a transept, and a chancel. In the 14th century, a
chapel was founded by John de Stratford, in the
south aisle, and dedicated to St. Thomas a Becket ;
and in the north aisle was a chapel dedicated to the
Holy Virgin, and filled with monuments of the
Olopton family. The monuments are numerous.
The ashes of Shakspeare repose beneath a stone
slab, on the north side of the chancel, inscribed
with the following verses, written by himself: —
GOOD FREND FOR JESTS SAKE FOIBEARE,
To Dice THE DOST ENCLOASF.D HF.AKE ;
BLEST Be YE. MAN YT. SPARES THES STOVES,
AND CVRST BE HE YT. MOVES MY BONES.
On the north wall, between two Corinthian co-
lumns of black marble, is the half-length figure of
the immortal man, his right hand holding a pen, hi*
left reposing on a scroll. Above, are his armorial
bearings, the tilting-spear, erect ; and a falcon
holding a spear, for the crest. Around, are some
common-place sepulchral figures. The effigies was
at first, coloured, the eyes, light hazel, and the
hair and beard, auburn ; but, in 1793, it was painted
white, at the request of Mr. Malone. Beneath, are
two inscriptions : —
IVDICIO PYLIVM, GENIO SOCRATEM, ARTE MARONEM,
TERRA TEGIT, POPVLVS MJERET, OLYMFVS HABET.
STAY PASSENGER, WHY GOEST THOV BY So FAST,
READ, IF THOV CANST, WHOM ENVJOVS DEATH HATH
PLAST,
WlTHFN THIS MONVMENT, SlIAKSFEARE, WlTH WHOME
QUICK NATVRE DIDE; WHOSE NAME DOTH DECK Ys.
TOM BE
FAR MORE THEN COST; SITH ALL YT. HE HATH WRITT,
LEAVES LIVING ART, BVT PAGE To SERVE His WITT.
OBIIT Aso. Doj. 1616. A/TATIS 53. DIE 23. Ap.
The bust, evidently executed by an artist of taste
and some skill, having been erected within seven
years from the poet's death, and under the eye of
his relatives, who may be supposed to have been
familiar with his person, is probably a likeness : it
has the forehead high, the eye-brows marked, the
head nearly bald, and an expression in the features
of habitual serenity, not apathy ; the whole, not
discrediting our preconceived opinion of his mental
qualifications. The wife of Shakspeare was interred
near him, and her tomb bears the date, August 6,
1623 ; with her age, sixty-seven years. Beneath
two flat stones, near the poet, lie his favourite
daughter, Susanna, and her husband, Dr. John
Hall. — John de Stratford having founded a chantry
for a warden and four priests, which foundation was
augmented by subsequent benefactors, a mansion-
house, or college, was erected for their accommo-
dation on the west side of the church- yard. At the
Dissolution, this college was granted to Dudley,
Earl of Warwick, and reverted to the crown on his
attainder. The buildings were removed in 1800.
Tb«
WARWICKSHIRE.
399
The crypt, belonging to Stratford church, was a
vault, in (he unoniamented Saxon style ; its pillars
were divided into three ribs, intersecting each other,
nnd closed up with unhewn stone. At its demoli-
tion, in 1800, the bones, of which there was a vast
quantity, were carefully interred. The period, at
which the Guild of the Holy Cross was founded, at
Stratford, is uncertain : in 1269, the members
founded an hospital, and erected a chapel for their
use, and the Bishop of Worcester gave them the
rule of St. Austin. Some years after the Dissolu-
tion, the possessions of the fraternity, were granted
to the corporation for charitable and public uses.
The chapel is still a considerable ornament to the
town. This structure, much of which was rebuilt
in the reign of Henry VII. underwent considerable
repairs in 1814, when it was accidentally dis-
covered that the original facing of plaster had
been embellished with paintings in fresco, and, on
the removal of the whitewash, these curious antique
designs were correctly copied. Among the most
sinking, were representations of Heaven, and the
Infernal Regions ; the Resurrection, and the Day
of Judgment ; St. George and the Dragon, and the
death of Becket. The whole were defaced during
the progress of the repairs. The lower part of the
Guildhall is used by the corporation, in transacting
public business ; the upper is the public Grammar
School, which was founded by a priest named Jo-
lepe, in the reign of Henry VI. for all boys who are
natives of the borough of Stratford. In the alms' -
houses, adjacent to the Guildhall, 12 poor men, and
as many poor women, receive 5s. per week, besides
apparel, and other means of subsistence. — The
Town Hall, a fine edifice of the Tuscan order, was
finished in 1768 ; and, at the celebration of the
jubilee, before-described, was dedicated to the me-
mory of Shakspeare, by Garrick, who named it
Shakspeare's Hal!, and presented a statue and pic-
* This transcendent poet of nature, the glory of the British
nation, was the eldest son of Mr. John Shakspeare, who had
at least eleven children ; and who is generally described as a
considerable dealer in the wool trade. But neither the father's
business, by some degraded to that of a butcher, nor the day
of his son's birth can be positively ascertained : he was, how-
ever, baptized on the 26th of April, 1564. After a very slight
education at the grammar school of the town, he is said to have
applied himself to his father's business; and married, in his
seventeenth year, Anne Hathaway, daughter of a yeoman, at
the adjacent village of Shottery. The circumstance which
brought Shakspeare to London is to be regretted, however we
may rejoice at the consequence, being nothing less than that of
having indiscreetly joined some other thoughtless youns^ men
in purloining deer from the adjacent park of Sir Thomas Lucy,
who menaced a prosecution. Whether distress, or the natural
bent of his mind, first led him to one of the numerous litile
theatres then abounding in the metropolis and its environs, is
by no means, ascertainable : but nothing can be more certain,
than that, after some time, he was engaged to perform subor-
dinate characters : probably, in his own first dramatic efforts.
As an actor, there seems good reason to believe, that he never
reached higher tha« the character of the Ghost, in his tragedy
ture of the poet, as suitable embellishments. The
former is placed on the west front, with this inscrip-
tion on its pedestal :
" — take him for all in all
We ne'er shall look upon his like again."
The principal room in this building, 00 feet long
by 30 wide, is adorned with portraits of Shakspeare,
Garrick, and John Frederic, Duke of Dorset. The
picture of Shakspeare was by Wilson, who, with
great judgment, threw the face into strong shade,
conscious that imagination must assist in completing
its character. The portrait of Garrick was by
Gainsborough, and represents him leaning on the
pedestal, which supports the bust of the, poet.—
The Cross is situated at the one end of High Street,
and is probably as old as the time of Elizabeth. The
town is approached on the side of the Avon by a fine
stone bridge of great length, and commodious width,
built by Sir Hugh Clopton, in the reign of HenryVII.
By the charter of incorporation of Charles II.,
the government of the town is vested in a mayor,
eleyen aldermen, and twelve burgesses ; the mayor
being coroner and justice of the peace. Stratford
boasts of several natives, distinguished in their time
for intellectual or other excellence. William Shak-
speare was born on the 23d of April, 15b'4, * and was
probably educated for a short time at the free-gram-
mar school. It is matter for regret, that few mate-
rials have been preserved, for the composition of a
memoir worthy of such a character. It is certain
that little more is known of his adventures than the
general outline : of his opinions, other than as we
have them in his incomparable writings, of his habits,
and particulars respecting his person and life, weare
completely ignorant. — John de Stratford, archbishop
of Canterbury, secretary to Edward II., and lord-
chancellor to his successor, was born at Stratford,
and studied at Oxford. His life is a tissue of the
vicissitudes of courts and court-favour. He died,
of Hamlet ; as a dramatic writer, he soon excelled all that went
before him ; and, we believe, there are few persons acquainted
with his productions who expect ever to see him equalled. His
native goodness of heart, and cheerful and agreeable mannm,
were scarcely surpassed, even by his exalted genius. Having
written at least thirty-six plays; been for a considerable time
joint proprietor of the Globe Trjeatre, Bankside, Southwark ;
and acquired, by his splendid talents and assiduity, sufficient
property to satisfy his very moderate views ; he purchased a
genteel residence at his native place, and prudently retired from
the care and fatigue of business, to pass the remainder of his
days with ease and tranquillity, in the rational enjoyment of a
rural life. He died the 23d of April, 1616, thus exactly com-
pleting his fifty-second year ; ami, it is remarkable, that Cer-
vantes, the inimitable author of Don Quixote, died in Spain,
on the same day. Shakspeare was interred among his ancestors
in the great church of his native place. His widow survived
him seven years ; and he left two daughters, who were both
married ; but his immediate family is said to have become ex-
tinct in the third generation, after his decease. His literary
progeny, however, the incorruptible offspring of his immortal
mind, will be dear to every grateful and susceptible mind, till
time K«etf shall be no more,
it
400
WARWICKSHIRE.
it is said, of the plague, in 1848. His learning,
gentleness, liberality, and attachment to his native
place are attested by Godwin. — Hubert de Stratford
was the younger brother of John, and some time
rector of .Stratford. He succeeded his brother as
lord-chancellor, was promoted to the see of Chi-
tehester, and elected chancellor of the University of
'Oxford. He died, at an advanced age, iu 1362.
Ralph de Stratford, nephew of these distinguished
men, was also a native of Stratford, and consecrated
.bishop of London, in 1339. He died in 1353. An
extraordinary instance of longevity occurred in the
person of a native of Stratford : Francis Ainge was
baptized, August 28lh, 1620, left England for North
America in his youth, and resided at the latter place
till the 13th of April, 1767, when he died, aged 137
years, and nearly eight months.
COVENTRY.] — The city and county of the city of
Coventry, is 10 miles N. N. E. from Warwick, and
61 N. W: from London. In 1451, Henry VI. as a
mark of especial favour, granted that the city of
Coventry, and certain villages iu its vicinity should
be constituted an entire county of themselves. His
charter enacts that the bailiffs of the city shall be
sheriffs of the county, and the same coroner preside
over both. This charter was confirmed by Ed-
ward-IV.— The greatest length of the county of the
city of Coventry, from Bedworth to a point near
Baginton, in a north-east and south-west direction,
is seven miles and a half ; and the greatest breadth,
from near Nettle Hill to Brownghill Green, in about
an east and west direction, is seven miles and a
quarter. The places united with the city of Coven-
try in the formation of this county are Anstey, Ex-
hall, Foleshill, Keresley, Sow (part of) Stivichall,
Stoke, and Wyken. The mayor and aldermen of
Coventry are officially justices of the peace for the
county, and hold quarter sessions in the same manner,
and with the same powers, as counties at large. King
Henry intended an act of general kindness to the
inhabitants when he granted their prescriptive rights;
hut his bounty has obviously entailed one privation on
many of them ; the freeholders of this county, as free-
holders, are not entitled to vote on the return of any
members to parliament ; as servitude alone bestows a
qualification on the citizens of Coventry, and with
Warwickshire they have notany political connection.
— This city is supposed to have been founded at a
Tery early period, the final syllable of its appellation
being evidently the British Tre, a town. The prefix,
given by the Saxons, is supposed to express the
circumstance of a covent, or convent, having been
erected on the spot. — Coventry was certainly not
used by the Romans for military purposes. — The
more ancient town is believed to have stood OH the
north of the present city, as extensive foundations
have been traced in that direction. — Rous informs
us, that when the traitor Edric invaded Mercia,
and destroyed many towns, in 1016, a house of nuns
iu Coventry, of which a holy virgin named St.
Osburg had been sometime abbess, fell a prey to his
ferocity. Leland says that King Canute first found-
ed a nunnery here. — In the early part of Edward
the Confessor's reign, Leofric, the fifth Earl of
Mercia, and his Countess Godiva, (sometimes also
called Godifa, Godinu, and Goditha) founded a
monastery on the ruins of St. Osburg's nunnery.
This Leofric was descended from Leofric, Earl of
Chester, in the time of Ethelbald, King of Mercia,
and appears to have been a man of eminent talents,
as he stood high in the consideration of several suc-
cessive monarchs. Godiva was sister to Thorold,
sheriff of Lincolnshire, who founded the abbey of
Spalding. Ingulphus says, she was a most beau-
tiful and devout lady. The monastery founded by
this distinguished pair, was for an abbot and twenty-
four monks of the Benedictine order, and it sur-
passed all others in the county for amplitude of
revenue and splendour of ornaments. — Earl Leofric
died in the 13th of Edward the Confessor, and was
buried in a porch of the monastery which he had
founded. The Lady Godiva, besides founding the
monastery of Stow, near Lincoln, bequeathed her
whole treasure to this religious house ; in the other
porch of the monastery church of which her re-
mains were interred. — The tolls and service of this
appear to have been distressingly felt by the inha-
bitants. On this subject, the author of the Monas- ,
ticon, writes as follows : — " The Countess Godiva,
bearing an extraordinary affection to this place, often
and earnestly besought her husband that,' for the
love of God and the Blessed Virgin, he would free
it from that grievous servitude whereunto it was
subject ; but he, rebuking her -for importuning him
in a manner so inconsistent with his profit, com-
manded that she should thenceforth forbear to move
therein ; yet she, out of her womanish pertinancy,
continued to solicit him, insomuch that he told her
if she would ride on horseback naked from one end
of the town to the other, in the sight of all the
people, he would grant her request. Whereunto
she returned, ' But will you give me leave so to do ?'
And he replying Yes ! the noble lady upon an ap-
pointed day, got on horseback naked, with her hair
loose, so that it covered all her body but her legs,
and thus performing her journey, returned with joy
to her husband : who thereupon granted to the inha-
bitants a charter of freedom. In memory whereof
the picture of him and his said lady were set up in
a south window of Trinity Church, in this city,
about King Richard II's. time, and his right hand
holding a charter, with these words written thereon :
31 Ktujtidje fat tljt lobe of tfjee
nuke Eounmt tol=ftte,"
Rapin gravely tells us, " that the Countess, pre-
vious to her riding, commanded all persons to keep
within doors, and from their windows, on pain of
death : but, notwithstanding this severe penalty,
there was oue person who could not forbear giving
a look
WARWICKSHIRE.
401
a look, out of curiosity ; but it cost him his life." —
This story appears legendary at the first and slightest
glance ; but as its memory is still carefully preserved,
it would have been improper to pass it over in silence.
Coventry, however, has still cause to look with gra-
titude on the memory of Lady Godiva ; as, to the
protection afforded by her and her husband, it is
evidently indebted for its early consequence. Soon
after the Norman conquest, the lordship of Coventry
became vested, by the marriage of Lucia, grand-
daughter of Leofric, in tbe Earls of Chester. By
the Earls of this race was constructed, within the
manor of Cheylesmore, on the south side of Coven-
try, a fortified mansion or castle. In the second of
Edward 111. the inhabitants received permission to
collect a toll towards defraying the expence of en-
closing their town ; and in the time of Richard II.
the walls, gates, and towers, were completed. Its
public buildings now increased, and its traders fixed
a staple clothing manufacture in the city. In the
year 1397, Richard II. chose the vicinity of Coven-
try for the scene of a tragic pageant, which led to
the loss of his crown and life. When Thomas Mow-
bray, Duke of Norfolk, demanded the privilege of
vindicating himself by single combat against the
accusations of the Duke of Hereford, afterwards
Henry IV. the king named Gosford Green, a plot
of considerable extent in the close neighbourhood of
Coventry, for the place of projected contest ; the
particulars of which are given in Froissart, Holin-
shed, &c.
Henry IV. held a parliament here, in 1401, since
styled Parliamentum Indoctorurn, and from sitting
in which all lawyers were prohibited. Henry IV.
and his queen, Margaret, were constant in their
attachment to Coventry ; and, perhaps, passed here
some of the most tranquil and pleasing hours of their
checquered lives. — In 1459, a second parliament was
held in this city, which was termed by the Yorkists
Parliamentum Diabnlicum ; and all its acts were
afterwards reversed. — In 1469, the Earl of Rivers,
and his son John, were beheaded on Gost'ord Green,
by order of Sir John Coniers, a commander in the
army of northern insurgents, which had obtained
some suco'ss in the neighbouring county of Oxford.
Edward IV. and the queen kept festival here, during
the Christmas of 1405. In 1470, the Earl of War-
wick entered Coventry with ordnance and warlike
stores. Edward, on his approach to Coventry,
halted on Gosford Green, and demanded entrance ;
but finding the city hostile, he resumed his march,
and lodged that night at Warwick. When rein-
stated in power by the victories of Barnet and
Tewksbury, he revenged this insult by depriving
the citizens of their liberties and franchises ; which
were restored on paying a fine of 500 marks. Ed-
ward kept here the feast of St. George, in 1474.
His son, Prince Edward, in the same year, was
one of the godfathers to a child of the mayor ;
and, three years afterwards, he was made a brother
of the guilds of Corpus Christ! and St. Trinity. —
VOL. IV.— NO. 170.
Richard III. visited Coventry, and was a spectator
of the pageants during the festival of Corpus Christi.
: Subsequently to the battle of Bosworth, Henry VII.
repaired hither, and lodged in the mayor's house.
! The inhabitants presented him with a hundred pounds
and a cup ; and Henry conferred knighthood on the
1 mayor. The city, during this reign, contributed
1100/. towards the tax levied for the king going into
France, in 1490. — Henry VIII. and Queen Kathe-
rine visited this place in 1510, "when there were
i three pageants set forth ; one at Jordan Well, with
j the nine orders of angels ; one at Broadgate, with
divers beautiful damsels ; and one at Cross Cheping;
and so they passed on to the priory." In 1525, the
city was favoured with the presence of the Princess
Mary. When the Dukes of Richmond and Norfolk
passed through Coventry, in 1534, they were re-
i ceived by the mayor and citizens in their liveries ;
i and, after a banquet in the street on horseback,
they proceeded to Combe Abbey. — The city felt a
great shock on the dissolution. of monastic houses.
Queen Elizabeth, during her progress through this
part of the kingdom, in 1565, was received here
with a variety of splendid shews* and pageants. In
1566, Mary, Queen of Scots, was conducted to this
city, and was confined as a prisoner in the mayoress's
parlour. Three years afterwards she was again
brought hither, and kept in confinement at the Bull
Inn (on the site of which the barracks now stand)
under the care of the Earls of Shrewsbury and Hun-
tingdon.— In 1610, James I. addressed a letter to
the mayor, aldermen, and sheriffs, and tbe Arch-
deacon of Coventry, commanding the inhabitants to
receive the sacrament kneeling ; and when, in 1619,
application was made to this sovereign for a renewal
of the city's charter, he refused to grant it until
assured that his will in this particular had met with
uniform attention. James honoured Coventry with
a visit in 1617; at which time a long oration was
delivered by Dr. Holland, one of the translators
of Camden, dressed in black satin. — The Princess
Elizabeth and Prince Henry likewise visited Coven-
try at different times. In the civil war of Charles I.
Coventry, though inclined to play an active part,
escaped those miseries to which many other armed
towns were subjected. — When the king repaired to
Leicester, in 1041, he demanded the attendance of
the mayor and sheriffs of this city, but the popular
party prevented their acceding to his desire. The
Earl of Northampton, at that time the city recorder,
in collecting persons friendly to the royal cause, was
able to muster only four hundred. The Parliamen-
tarians, who wore the colours of Lord Brooke, were
so much more numerous, that the recorder made
a precipitate retreat, and escaped, through a back
door of the Bull Inn. The ammunition in the town
was seized, ami removed1 by Lord Brooke to War-
wick Castle. When the king sent a herald to
demand entrance, he was informed that the citizens
would willingly receive his majesty, and 200 of his
followers, but no more. Findjng tbe citizens deter-
5 1 mined
40-2
WARWICKSHIRE.
mined to defend themselves, and bearing that Lord
Brooke was approaching, he drew off his forces
that night. jn the following year the city was
garrisoned by the .parliament. One of the aldyrmen
(Barker) was appointed governor, and a regiment
of infantry, and one troop of cavalry, were raised
from the most active of the inhabitants. Trenches
were cut on the outside of the walls ; and sluices
were opened at the influx of the river Sherbourn.
Some of the gates were stopped up ; and, before
three, half-moon fortifications were erected. Cannon
were planted on all the principal towers ; and many
of the women of the city went by companies into
the great park to fill up the quarries, that they might
not at a future period harbour the enemy. They
were collected together by the sound of a drum,
and marched in military order, with mattocks and
spades, under the command of an amazon named
Adderley,withan Herculean club upon her shoulder ;
and were conducted from work by one Mary Her-
bert, who carried a pistol in her hand, which she
discharged as a signal of dismissal." — The mayor
chosen in 1644, found to be not sufficiently hearty in
his opposition to the royal cause, was not permitted
to serve the office, and the governor was appointed
to succeed him. The place remained garrisoned till
the end of the year 1659 ; but, on the Restoration,
Charles II. was promptly proclaimed by the mayor
and aldermen, amidst great acclamations of joy.
On the.day of coronation Smithford Street and Cross
Cheaping conduits ran claret; and bonfires were
lighted in the evening, in testimony of loyalty. —
James II. was at Coventry in 1687. The streets were
then strewed with sand, and the fronts of the houses
were whitened, and dressed with green boughs.
Soon after the Mercian kingdom was divided into
five bishoprics, the see of Lichfield was so far ex-
tended as to comprehend the chief part of the former
possession -of the Cornavii. Peter, elected Bishop
of Lichfield iti 1075, moved the see to Chester ;
and Robert de Limesie, in 1102, removed it again
to Coventry, tempted, probably, by the riches and
reputation of the monastery founded by Earl Leofric.
The five succeeding bishops likewise sat at Coven-
try ; styling themselves Coventria Episcopi only.
Hugh Novant, consecrated in 1188, restored the
see to Lichfield, though with much opposition from
the Benedictine monks of Coventry. In conse-
quence of disputes between the Chapter of Coventry
and that of Lichfield, both parties agreed, -in the
reign of Henry III. that the bishop should be
elected both from Coventry and Lichfield ; that the
precedence in the episcopal title should be given to
the former city ; that the two chapters should alter-
nately choose their bishop ; and that they should
form one body, in which the Prior of Coventry
should be the principal. From this time, the prelate
was styled Bishop of Coventry and Lichfield. In
the 33d of Henry VIII. an act was passed, " that
the Dean and Chapter of Lichfield should be for
ever the entire and sole chapter of the bishopric of
Coventry and Lichfield ; whereof the prior and
convent of the dissolved priory of Coventry were
heretofore the moiety, or half-part." Such remains
the constitution of the bishopric ; but, on the Resto-
ration, Bishop Hacket gave the precedence in titu-
lar designation to Lichfield, and his example has
ever since been followed.
The principal parts of the city of Coventry are
seated on gently elevated ground, watered by the
Radford and Sherbourn brooks. Coventry has three
spires, one of pre-emhieiit beauty, and the others
deficient in attraction only from a comparison with
St. Michael's, which rise high in the air, ami pre-
pare the approaching traveller for an entrance to a
place of great population and striking architectural
importance. The entrances, however, are uniformly
mean and bad ; and a person accustomed to con-
template the improved buildings of ^recent periods,
looks in vain for the anticipated affluence of domes-
tic architecture. The streets are very narrow, and
the foot-ways are formed of sharp pebbly stones.
Coventry has been peculiarly fortunate in escaping
conflagration ; consequently, it presents the aspect
of a city of the sixteenth century ; the upper parts
of the houses projecting, as was customary in ages
when a free circulation of air formed no part of the
builder's calculations. Houses replete with the
venerable traces of the fiftenth century are yet stand-
ing in several divisions ; the freshness of complexion
only injured by age, and the main works still firm in
massy, and almost impregnable, oak.
Coventry is viewed to much advantage from the
north east. St. Michael's church, beautiful and
attractive from any point, forms the prominent fea-
ture. The spire of Trinity church rises modestly
beyond, as though retiring in confessed secondari-
ness of pretensions. The tower of St. John's, and
the steeple of the Grey -Friars, ascend on each hand.
The spot from which the two steeples that so emi-
nently ornament Coventry are seen with the most
striking effect, is on the margin of Priory-Mill Dam,
in the neighbourhood of the now desolated priory.
The length of the city, from Hill Street Gate to
Gost'ord Gate, is about three-quarters of a mile, ex-
clusive of the suburbs. The walls are completely
reduced ; but traces of them, and of several of the
gates, are yet discernible. The streets are numer-
ous, and intersect and deviate from each other with-
out any resemblance to regularity of design.
St. Michael's church is a beautiful specimen of
the Gothic, or 'English style. The most ancient
part of the structure is the east end, which was
finished in 1,395, at the charge of William and Adam
Botoner, who were several times mayors of Coven-
try. It has a square tower, no portion of which
remains blank, though not any superfluous orna-
ment is introduced. The windows are well pro-
portioned, and the buttresses eminently light. In
various niches are introduced the figures of saints ;
and each division is enriched with a bold spread of
ernbi-oidery and embossed carving. The tower is
136 feet
WARWICKSHIRE.
403
130 feet three inches in height ; and on it stands an
octagonal prism, 32 feet six inches high, which is
supported by eight graceful springing arches. The
octagon is surmounted by a battlement, whence pro-
ceeds a spire, 130 feet nine inches in height, adorned
with fluting, and embossed pilaster-wise. Sir Chris-
topher Wren is said to have pronounced the steeple
a master-piece of the art of building. — The body
of the church is supposed to have been erected in
the time of Henry VI. The whole is of the best
character of Gothic. The interior consists of a hody
and two side aisles, divided by lofty arches with
clustered pillars. The windows of the upper story
are ornamented with ancient painted glass. Here is
a good organ ; and in the steeple is a very melodious
chime of bells. — Trinity church, in the immediate
contiguity of St. Michael's, approaches to the cru-
ciform character. From the centre rises a square
tower, out of which directly issues a lofty spire.
The original spire was blown down in 1064. The
new one, completed in 1667, is composed of stone
taken from a quarry without New Gate. The entire
height, from the ground, is 237 feet. The east
end of the church was taken down in 1786, and re-
built in a style tolerably consonant to the general
character of the structure. The interior is marked
by that studious cultivation of twilight gloom so
often found in the works of Gothic designers. The
monuments are few ; but the examiner will not pass
entirely without interest the spot sacred to the re-
mains of Philemon Holland, the translator of Cam-
dcu's Britannia, and many other works. — St. John's
church is a respectable stone building, of the cruci-
form description, with a low and weighty tower
rising from the centre. The interior is_ plain, and
much encumbered by the four massy pillars which
support the tower. The land on whicli this church
•tands was assigned by Isabel, the queen-mother of
Edward III. for the building of a chapel, termed
Bablake Chfcpel, in honour of the Saviour and St.
John the Baptist; which was finished in five years,
and dedicated in May, 1350. A residence for the
seclusion of an anchorite was anciently constructed
in the vicinity of the chapel.* After long neglect, it
was made a rectory, in 1734, and settled on the
master of the free-school in Coventry.
St. Mary's Hall has attracted the notice of many
antiquaries, and is well calculated to convey to the
living age a just idea of the magnificence of Coven-
try, when the city was the resort of devotees, and
the favourite Chamber of Princes. The foundation
of the building is connected with the ancient guilds
of this city. It is now used for purposes of civic
dignity and festivity by the mayor and corporation.
It, stands' at a short distance on the south from the
church of St. Michael. — The County Hall, erected
in 1785, is well adapted for public business. The
front is of stone, and has a rustic basement, with a
range of columns supporting a pediment in the cen-
tre.— The Mayor's Parlour is a place of official re-
sort for municipal proceedings. — The Drapers' Hall
was rebuilt in 1775, on a commodious and desirable
plan. The front is a chaste elevation of stone, or-
namented with Tuscan pilasters. — The Barracks,
which occupy the site of the Bull Inn, an ancient
hostel, were erected in 1793. They are handsome,
and conveniently arranged for the intended purpose.
The face towards the High Street is composed of
stone. — The New Gaol, erected in 1772, is well cal-
culated, in size and disposal, to its object.
The ancient priory stood on the south side of the
river Sherbourn. The larger part of its site, now
garden ground, is in a great measure levelled. Some
massy fragments of masonry, and several door-cases,
at the termination of the buildings which face the
Sherbourn, are the only remains of the building.
The cathedral of Coventry occupied a place called
Hill Close, on a slight declivity from the north side
of St. Michael's and Trinity church-yards. This
splendid edifice is said to have been built on the
model of the cathedral at Lichfield. King Henry
caused this cathedral to be levelled with the ground,,
when he destroyed the neighbouring monastery ;
and one small fragment, wrought into a dwelling,
alone remains of the fair and costly building. A
part of the site was again consecrated, in 1776, and
is used as a burial place for Trinity parish. — The
Episcopal Palace stood at the north-east corner of
St. Michael's church-yard. Some faint traces of
the building are still visible. — The Grey Friars, or
Friars Minors, believed to have settled in Coventry
about the year 1231, had, at first, only an oratory,
which was covered with shingles delivered for that
purpose from the woods dt Kenilworth, by order of
King Henry III. The contributions of the devout
at length enabled them ty raise a splendid monas-
tery and church on the south side of the city., Of
the habitable parts of the monastery not any traces
remain. The remaiivs of the church consist of a line
steeple, with a "spire springing from ^n octagon.
The site of olher parts of the building, and the ad-
jacent cemetery, are now used as garden-ground,
and the lower part of the tower is converted into a
tool-house. — The White Friars, or Carmelites,
another order of mendicants, first settled in Coven-
try about the year 1342. A house for their reception
was built by Sir John Poultney, four times Lord
Mayor of London ; and, in 1413, Henry V. per-
mitted, by licence, William Botener to give them a
piece of ground 141 feet in length, and 45 feet in
breadth, for the purpose of enlarging their residence.
They had also a church. The monastery, subse-
quently converted into a gentleman's mansion,' is
now used as a house of industry for the united
parishes of St. Michael and the Holy Trinity. —
The regulations of this establishment reflect high
credit on the city. The affairs of the house are su-
perintended by eighteen directors, ten from St. Mi-
chael's, and eight from Trinity. They have a com-
mon seal, and hold weekly meetings for the dispatch
of ordinary business, and stated general meetings
for especial purposes. Such of the adult poor as are
404
WARWICKSHIRE.
able, work in the weaving of calicoes ; and the
younger are employed in the throwing of silk (the
preparing of the article for the use of ribbon wea-
vers). Cleanliness and good order are generally
conspicuous. Distinct from the places of usual re-
sidence is a brick building, with windows rendered
obscure by wooden screens, for the reception of such
females as are admitted for the united purposes of
childbed and reformation. There are also cells for
solitary confinement. The young are instructed in
the rudiments of salutary learning, partly by daily
tuition, partly by a Sunday school. A decent room
is furnished as a chapel for such of the aged as may
be too infirm to attend parochial service.
The Castle, within the manor of Cheylesmore, on
the south side of the city, was of great extent.
According to a MS. copied in the collections to-
wards a History of Coventry, " the monks, in
1278, obtained a licence from Edward I. and con-
verted (he land round Cheylesmore into a park,
which, in the measure of those days, contained 436
acres of waste lands and woods." Edward III.
conferred upon his son, the Black Prince, the duke-
dom of Cornwall ; and, as a part of the estate, he
bestowed the reversion of the manor of Cheyles-
more. The manor was thus settled on the succes-
sive eldest sons of the reigning monarch. Among
its privileges were a court-lcet, with power to give
judgment in such matters as were usually deter-
mined before the magistrates for the county of War-
wick ; and a gaol for felons and other transgressors.
The park appears to have been well-wooded, and
stocked with deer. Edward VI. in 1549, bestowed
Cheylesmore, with the park, on John Duke of North-
umberland, and his heirs, as part of the possessions
annexed to the Duchy of Cornwall. This duke
granted a lease of the estate for 09 years to the
mayor, bailiffs, &c. of Coventry, subject to certain
charitable cui.J.<tions. After the attainder of the
Duke in 1553, the corporation obtained a grant from
Queen Elizabeth to hold the premises for ever in
fee ferme, on which occasion they covenanted to ob-
serve the well-meant intentions of the Duke, in
regard to the poor inhabitants. The park, which is
about three miles in circumference, was inherited
by the present Prince of Wales, as Duke of Corn-
wall ; but it has been sold, under the authority of
parliament, for the redemption of the land-tax, to
the Marquis of Hertford, and is now enclosed.
After the ruin of the castle, a manor house was con-
structed in the same situation. Of this building
there chiefly remain some pieces of stone-work,
connected with mea'n tenements raised on the site,
which indicate the original massy character of the
edifice.
Coventry Cross, a fabric of extensive celebrity,
•tood near the centre of the present corn-market.
A cross on this spot was first erected in 1423, but
a more costly pile was substituted in the sixteenth
century. Having fallen to ruin, it was removed in
the year 1771.
The walls of Coventry were nine feet in thickness.
At different points were thirty-two towers, and
twelve gates. The walls were kept in good repair
for nearly three centuries ; but after the Restora-
tion they were destroyed. Most of the gates, how-
ever, were left untouched ; several have been taken
down within the last half century, and three of them
are still remaining.
Bablake Hospital, situated behind St. John's
church, is an ancient and decaying structure, nearly
encompassing a small court. A portion of the edi-
fice is occupied by almshouses, founded in 1506, by
Thomas Bond, a wealthy trader of Coventry, who
had been mayor of the city. The number of alms-
men is forty-two, each of whom receives 4s. a week,
with a gown, a hat, and several other benefits. The
remainder of the building is dedicated to a charity
of the most desirable character. In the year 1560,
an institution was here founded by the city, for the
maintenance and instruction of poor boys. — Grey
Friars' Hospital, situated near the ruins of the
church formerly belonging to the Grey Friars, was
founded in 1529, by Mr. William Ford of Coventry,
for the lodging and assistance of five men and one
woman ; but various subsequent benefactions have
caused the number of pensioners to be augmented
to eighteen poor women, besides a nurse, and two
aged men : each receives 2s. 6d. per week ; 34 cwt.
of coals annually ; and a blue gown once in three
years. — The free-school is indebted for foundation to
John Hales, who, in consequence of employments
under Henry VIII. had opportunities of making ad-
vantageous purchases among the monastic posses-
sions exposed to sale at the Dissolution. This school
has produced some eminent men, among whom must
be named Sir William Dugdale ; but latterly the
salaries have sunk almost to sinecure possessions.
The present school-room is formed from a portion
of the ancient chapel of St. John's Hospital.
This city acquired affluence and reputation at a
comparatively early period, from the success with
which it cultivated manufactures. The cloth, caps,
and bonnets, made in this city, became articles of
important traffic at the commencement of the 15th
century ; and woollen and broad cloths remained
the staple manufacture until the war of 1694, be-
tween England and France, when the Turkey trade
was destroyed. In the early part of the sixteenth
century Coventry became famous for a manufacture
of blue thread, but the art was lost before the year
1581. The manufacture of striped and mixed tam-
mies, and of camblets. shalloons, and calimancoes,
flourished through the greater part of the eighteenth
century, but is now almost entirely lost. The prin-
cipal manufactures at present are those of ribbons
and watches ; the former of which was introduced
upwards of a century ago, and, for the first thirty
years, was confined to the hands of a few. It has
since spread to a great extent, and, not long since,
afforded employment to 16,000 persons in the city
and neighbouring towns and villages. At present
the
WARWICKSHIRE.
405
the ribbon-weavers are in a very distressed state,
the wages of the journeymen being less than they
were fifty years ago. According to a petition to
the House of Commons for relief, presented by
P. Moore, Esq. M. P. for the city of Coventry, on
the 13th of May, 1819, the first class of workmen
bad only 10s. for 96 hours' hard labour, the third
class worked 4 hours for five farthings, and some
worked 12 hours for three halfpence. The defici-
ency was obliged to be made up from the poor rates,
which amounted to 17,500/. a year. — The manufac-
ture of watches was not pursued to any great extent
in Coventry till within the last 40 years ; but it is
supposed that more watches are now made here than
in London. — The Oxford and Coventry Canals, the
head of which is near Bishop Street, afford great
facilities to traffic, and tend much to the commercial
prosperity of the place. The great road from Lon-
don to Liverpool passes through this city.
The City of Coventry is divided into ten wards,
and is governed by a mayor, ten aldermen, and
twenty common-council. The mayor and aldermen
are justices of the peace for the city and county.
A procession, connected with the principal fair
of this city, lias attracted much notice, and is allusive
to the fantastical story of the Lady Godiva. " To
this day," observes Pennant, " the regard of Godiva
towards this city is remembered by a procession, on
the Friday in Trinity week ; and a charming fair
one still graces the procession, not literally like the
good countess, with her own dishevelled hair, &c.
but in linen, closely fitted to her limbs, and of a
colour emulating their complexion." The figure,
however, which Pennant thus notices, cannot be
adduced in proof of the veracity of the 'traditionary
tale, for it is believed to have been first used in the
reign of Charles II. Previously to that reign, the
mayor was accustomed to go in procession to pro-
claim the fair, attended by a number of guards in
armour.
The inhabitants of this city were formerly averse
from any correspondence with the military quartered
within their limits. A female known to speak to a
man in a scarlet coat became directly the object of
town scandal. So rigidly, indeed, did the natives
abstain from communication with all who bore his
Majesty's military commission, that officers were
here confined to the interchanges of the mess-room ;
and in the mess-room, the term of " sending a man
to Coventry," if you wish to shut him from society,
probably originated. The military, however, now
meet in this city with every polite attention.
There are several Sunday schools in Coventry,
the first of which was established in 1785. The
number of dissenting meeting-houses is six, besides
a Catholic chapel, and a Quakers' meeting.
Coventry affords the title of Earl to a family
descended from John Coventry (son of William
Coventry, of this city) who was Lord Mayor of
London in 1425. The title of Baron was bestowed
in 1628. Thomas, third Lord Coventry, was created
VOL. iv. — NO. 170.
Viscount Deerhurst and Earl of Coventry, in 1697.
George William, the seventh Earl, succeeded to the
family honours in 1809.
South-east of Coventry stood a monastery be-
longing to the Carthusians. The remains are slight,
but a commodious dwelling has been raised on the
site, which is termed the Charter House, and wax
lately the residence of Edward Inge, Esq.
Whitley Hall, the seat of Lord Hood, is one mile
and a half from Coventry, on the south-east. —At
Stivichall, near Whitley, is the residence of Francis
Gregory, Esq. — At Exhall, four miles from Coven-
try on the north-east, Dr. Thomas, the continuator
of Dugdale's Antiquities, was many years vicar.
HiiMLiNGFORD.] — The hundred of Hemlingford,
bounded northward, by Staffordshire ; eastward by
Coventry and Knightlow ; southward, by Barlich-
way; and, westward, by the counties of Worcester
and Stafford ; is composed of four divisions :—
Atherstone, Birmingham, Solihull, and Tamworth.
Atherstone division comprehends Ansley, Ather-
stone, Baxterley, Bentley, Caldecote, Cbilvers-
Coton, Corley, Fillongley, Hartshill, Lea-Mars-
ton, Mancester, Maxstoke, Merevale, Nimeaton,
Oldbury, Shustoke with Blythe, Weddington, Whit-
acre-over, and Whitacre-neither : in all 19 parishes
and hamlets.
Ansley became, by purchase, the property of the
Ludfo.rd family in 1613. The hall, an irregular but
commodious residence, is situated in an extensive
park, rich in natural and artificial beauties. On an
insulated spot, is a Chinese temple ; and in a se-
questered valley, is a hermitage, in which, Warton,
who visited it in 1758, left his beautiful verses, be-
ginning
Beneath this stony roof reclined,
I sooth to peace my pensive mind.
Ansley church has some remains of Saxon and
early Norman architecture ; and a square tower of
some beauty.
The market-town of Atherstone, supposed to
derive, its name from a " stone," under which an
"adder," of enormous size, was found, is situated
on the Watling Street, 24 miles N. by E. from War-
wick, and 107f N. W. by N. from London. Divided
from Leicestershire by the river Anker, it consists
of one street, in which are some neat and substan-
tial dwellings, and a convenient market-house. It
was a place of some importance at the Conquest ;
but, at present, it is a hamlet to the parish of Man-
cester. The mother-church, at Mancester, is about
a mile distant. A monastery of Friars Hermits of
St. Augustine, was founded at Atherstone, in the
year 1375 ; but, at the Dissolution, its revenues were
only I/. 10s. 3d. per annum. On tfie site of the
friary, a residence was erected by Sir John Reping-
ton, Kut. The church belonging to the friary was
completed in the reign of Richard II. After the
Dissolution, the nave, or western endof this church,
was granted to the inhabitants of Atherstone, as a
5, K cbapei
406
WARWICKSHIRE.
chapel of ease ; and as such it remains at the present
day. A south aisle, however, has been added, ami
some other alterations made, which have detracted
much from the symmetry and real beauty of the ori-
ginal structure, though they may have added to its
convenience. — A free-grammar school was founded
at Atherstone by Sir William Devereux (then resid-
ing at Merevale) and two other benevolent persons,
in the year 1573. The chancel of the friary church,
or chapel, was appropriated to the use of this semi-
nary ; and it is still dedicated to the same purpose.
— The Mansion House, affixed to the chapel, and the
adjoining- lands, came into the Devereux family, and
were purchased about 160 years ago, of Lady De-
vereux, by a younger branch of the Bracebridge
family. — The Mansion, or Hall House, was sometime
after separated from the chapel, and rebuilt, at a
small distance, upon a pleasant bank commanding
an extensive view over the adjacent counties of Lei-
cester, Derby, and Stafford. Two nights before the
battle of Bosworth, the Duke of Richmond lay at
Atherstone, where he had his interview with the two
Stanleys, in which such measures of co-operation
were concerted as occasioned the overthrow of King
Richard ; and, it is said, that many persons, from
the subsequent battle of Bosworth Field, were buried
below this old mansion, and the spot has retained
the name of the Bloody-bank. It is as likcly>>how-
cver to have been so called, from being the place
where contests, of less serious results, were usu-
ally decided by the young champions of the Anti-
ent Foundation school, which is still supported by
a respectable endowment. — Atherstone Hall has
been lately much improved by extended buildings,
and ornamental plantations ; and, at present, it is
in the occupation of Lord Grey, son of the Earl of
Stamford, as tenant, for a term of years *. The
chief manufactures of the town of Atherstone are
felt hats, and ribbon-weaving. The wool-combing
* The family of Bracebridge, above mentioned, was anciently
of Bracebridge, in Lincolnshire, since of Kingsbury, in this
county, possessing there, one of the most extensive properties
under the heptarchy ; but of which a small rent charge of 40/.
per annum only, is now remaining in this family. Abraham
Bracebridge, Esq. to whom Atherstone Hall, and the surround-
ing estate, at present belong, married the daughter ol Sir Charles,
and niece of Sir Lister Holte, Bart, of Aston, in Warwickshire,
and of Brereton, in Cheshire, whose son is heir apparent to
those estates. A considerable part of the Kingsbury property
having passed into the Holte family, it will return into the
B.racebridges, in consequence of the marriage of Mr. Brace-
bridge, just mentioned, with the daughter and only child of the
late Sir Charles Holte, Bart, in whom settles also the Brereton
property in Cheshire, which came to the Holies by marriage
into the family of Lord Brereton. — At Lindley, in Leicester-
shire, four miles only from Atherstone, the elderly branch of
the Bracebridge family built, when dispossessed at Kingsbury ;
and about the same time, that the younger brother purchased
at Atherstone.— Lindley Hall went to the niece of the elder
brother as above, and is now in her family.
In our account of Brereton, in Cheshire, (vide vol. I. page
206,) mention is mad« of a pool, called Bag-meer, in which,
according to the tradition of the neighbourhood, trunks of trees
were observed to rise, and float for several days, previously to
business is also carried on. — At Atherstone was born,
in 1607, Obadiah Grew, D. D. a cov n^nter, who,
refusing to conform, at the Restoration, was ejected
from his living.
Caldecote Hall, once the property of the Ptirefoy
family, by whom the house was rebuilt, was after-
ward purchased by Sir Nathan Wright, and, after
several times changing its proprietor, became the
property of Thomas Fisher, Esq. by whom consi-
derable improvements were made, without injury
to the venerable features of the ancient edifice. This
mansion was defended, during the parliamentary
war, by Mr. George Abbott, son-in-law to Colonel
Purefoy, assisted by eight men, and his mother,
with her maids, against the Princes Rupert and
and Maurice, with eighteen troops of horse ; and, it
should seem, successfully. The church', which is a
plain Gothic structure, contains some monument!!
of the Purefoys, and an inscription in honour of
Mr. Abbott.
Hartshill, situated on an elevated plain, was the
Campus Martins of the Romans, and included by
them in the general name of Manduessedum. la
1563, was born here, Michael Drayton, a poet who
excelled in pastoral description, and whose works
are still read with delight, by lovers of the old Eng-
lish muse. He died in 1631, and was buried in
Westminster Abbey.
Maxstoke Castle was built in the reign of Edward
III. by William de Clinton, Earl of Huntingdon,
and passed, in the reign of Henry IV. to Humphrey,
Earl of Stafford. From the Staffords the estate
passed to the Comptons, and Lord -keeper Egerton,
successively. The latter sold it to Thomas Dilke,
Esq. whose descendant, Mr. Dilke, is the present
owner. The castle is quadrangular, and moated,
and has at each of its corners an hexagonal tower.
Over the gates, which are covered with plates of
iron, and defended by hexangular towers, are the
the death of an heir of the Breretons. This tradition was
singularly corroborated, by an accidental occurrence of a very
high wind, which removed the island near a statute acre, with
some small timber trees, which served as sails, from one side
of the lake to the other (the water and surrounding rough was
estimated at 300 acres) a few months previously to the death of
the late Sir Charles Holte nothing would have discredited this
prediction, had not the Meer being soon after drained ; when
the island was found to have been formed by an assemblage of
wild fowl amongst the rushes and water-lilies, which concreted
upon the surface of the water, and increasing for many years,
the mass became of considerable strength and consistence ; and
seeds, brought by the birds had produced many trees of dif-
ferent sorts ; so that, at the time alluded to, it used to be
resorted to in hot weather, by fishing parties, fastening the boat
to some of the trees. This occurred a day or two only after
the removal of the island ; when some of the party rowed to
see it in its new situation. It happened, that, loosened from
its anchorage, by the high wind disturbing its roots, it was re-
moved again, with a change of wind, a few weeks afterwards,
to nearly its former situation, whence it can never again be
stirred, as, in draining away the water upon which it floated,
it became firmly attached to the soil below, and now forms part
of the bank to the remaining water.
arms
WARWICKSHIRE.
407
»rms of Humphrey, Duke of Buckingham. The
greater part of this ancient edifice is entire, and pre-
sents an interesting' specimen of the architecture of
the Hth and loth centuries. William de Clinton
founded a priory for canons regular of the order of
St. Augustine, of which there are considerable re-
mains, covered with ever-greens, in picturesque
foliage.
At Merevale is the seat of Dugdale Stratford
Dugdale, Esq. a gentleman descended from Sir
William Dugdale, the historian of this county. Ro-
bert, Earl of Ferrers, founded here a monastery of
Cistercians, of which some picturesque remains exist.
Nuneaton, 19 miles N. N. E. from Warwick, was
indebted for its early prosperity to the foundation of
a monastery, in the reign of Stephen. This religious
house, comprehending both monks and nuns, within
the pale of one establishment, possessed at the Dis-
solution a revenue of 290/. 15s. |rf. One entire arch,
and some fragments of the walls remain. The
church of Nuneaton is a neat. but small Gothic
structure. A free-school was founded here in the
reign of Edward VI., who contributed a piece of
land near the town to its endowment. Considera-
ble trade arises from the weaving of ribbons.
At Oldbury, on the top of a hill, are vestiges, sup-
posed to be of the camp belonging to the Roman
station in the neighbourhood. Three sides are well
preserved ; and of these the ramparts are twenty
t'eet broad at the base, and six feet in height. Vari-
ous weapons, supposed of the ancient Britons, formed
of flint, have been found there ; one of which is
preserved in the Ashmolean Museum, at Oxford.
This spot is now occupied by the elegant mansion of
H. F. .Okeover, Esq. South-eastward from Old -
bury, a large plain is terminated by a smaller camp.
Shustoke was the birth-place of the celebrated
antiquary and historian, Sir William Dugdale*,
whose remains, with those of his lady, lie in the
church of his native place. Over his tomb is a tablet
nffixed to the wall, bearing a Latin inscription, and
the family arms. Blythe Hall was purchased, in
1625, by Sir William Dugdale, whose portrait, with
that of his son-in-law, Elias Ashtnole, is there pre-
served. It is now the seat of Mrs. Dugdale.
Birmingham division comprehends the following
places :— Birmingham, Coleshill, Cardwortb, Min-
* Sir William was the son of John Dugdale, Esq. and was
born Sept. 12, 1605. He was educated at St. John's College,
Oxford, and in 1638, was made pursuivant at arms. He at-
tended the king at the battle of Edgehill, and in other engage-
ments ; and, after the ruin of the royal cause, he compounded
• for his estate, and resided in London, where he completed his
Monasticon Anglicanum, in3 vols. folio. At the Restoration he
was made Norroy, and afterwards Gaiter king at arms, on which
occasion he received the honour of knighthood. He died in
1686, leaving one son, aflerwards Norroy king at arms; and
one daughter, married to Elias Ashmole. Besides the Monas-
ticon, he wrote " The Antiquities of Warwickshire," " The
are preserved in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford.
worth, Sheldon, Button Coldfield. and Wishaw with
Moxhull.
The town of Birmingham, of manufacturing cele-
brity, is situated on a peninsular projection of the
county, 21 miles N. W. from Warwick, and 113-J-
N. W. from London. Its name, often pronounced
Bntmmicliam, appears to have been formerly Bntm-
tcyclie/iam ; and is supposed to have been partly
formed in allusion to the plenty of the plant broom,
found in its neighbourhood ; whence also two other
places are denominated Bromwich. The first nolice
of this town mentions the great attention paid to the
manufacture of iron utensils ; and one historian t
attempts to prove the existence of this occupation at
Birmingham in the time of the Britons. At an early
period, the lordship was vested in a family, which
assumed its surname from the possession, and re-
tained the manorial rights till the reign of Henry VIII.
During this period, and even as late as the time of
Charles I., lew advances were made towards high
commercial consequence. In the civil war, occa-
sioned by the disputes of that monarch with his par-
liament, Birmingham sided with the latter, and in
one or two rencounters, suffered severely. In 1605,
the town was visited by the plague ; and, on that
occasion, the bodies of the victims were interred
in an acre of waste land, since denominated thet
pest ground. At the Restoration, Birmingham
began to rise in commercial prosperity : then the
toy*trade was first cultivated there ; and, since that
time to the present, the history of Birmingham is
fortunately comprised in a view of its progress in
arts, buildings, population, and commercial import-
ance : one lamentable exception occurs to diversify
this blank. On Thursday, July 14, 1791, eighty-
one persons assembled at the hotel to celebrate the
anniversary of the French revolution. A mob as-
sembled, under the mask of an enthusiastic zeal for
the safety of church and king; and, excited by the
cry of " No false Rights of Man !" proceeded to a
work of destruction, in which all buildings, public
or private, which promised a meed of plunder, were
included. The fire-brand spread its ravages in
town and country, and many of the rioters, reduced
to a state of brutal intoxication, perished in the
flames which they had kindled. Two conventicles
were destroyed in Birmingham, and in the neigh-
t Hutton.— In the month of Sept. 1815, died, at his house
at Bennett's Hill, near Birmingham, at the age of 92, William
Hutton, Esq. the author of the History of Birmingham, and
various other works. Mr. fluttori's education was of a very
confined nature, and, in his entrance into life, his circumstances
were narrow ; but he possessed talents, industry, and economy,
and with these he quickly realised a large fortune. Mr. Huttou
had retired from business two and twenty years previous to his
death, to within three days of which, though very infirm, he
continued to take exercise. He had two children, a son and
a daughter ; the latter is the author of a Tour in North Wales.
Mr. Hutton left behind him a manuscript history of his own
life, which lias since been published, and abounds in desultory
interest.
bourhood
408
WARWICKSHIRE.
bourhood the mansions of its most respectable inha-
bitants, among whom were Dr. Priestley, whose
philosophical apparatus, and valuable manuscripts,
the fruits of many years' labour, perished iu the
AMOKS ; John Rylancl, Esq. of Easy Hill ; Mr.
Taylor of Bordesley Hall ; Mr. Hutton, whose two
residences, in the town and at Saltley, were con-
sumed ; George Humphreys, Esq. ; William Rus-
sell, Esq. of Showell Green ; Lady Carhampton, of
Molsesley Hall ; and Dr. Wethering, of Edgbaston
Hall. The damage occasioned by these outrages
was moderately calculated at 6Q,000/. ; and an act
was obtained to reimburse the persons who had sus-
tained loss ; whilst public justice was satisfied by
the execution of two of the chief offenders.
The principal street of the old town of Birming-
ham was that, termed Digbeth. At the Restoration
there were fifteen streets, and since that time the
number of houses has increased from 900 to about
18,000. The modern built streets are commodiously
wide ; but the buildings are rather shewy than
lasting. The builder's skill is principally employed
in the substantial erection of manufactories. The
progressive increase of domestic buildings and. of
inhabitants has been thus traced through different
periods : —
A.D
1700
1731
1741
; Street,
28.
51.
54.
s. Houses.
2,504
3,717
4,114
Inhabitants.
, 15,032
, 23,286
24,660
1781
...125
8 382 .....".,
50,295
1791
203.
12,681
73,653
In 1801, the number of inhabitants was 73,670 ;
of inhabited houses, 14,528 ; of uninhabited houses,
1875 : in 1811, the population was 85,753 ; the
number of inhabited houses was 16,653 ; and of
uninhabited houses, 418. — From a survey of the
town, made in July, 1816, it was found to contain
18,082 houses and premises assessed to the poor-
rates, and the annual value was estimated at210,170/. ;
but only 3180 of the houses contributed to the rate.
The number of the non-contributing houses was
14,189, the annual value of which was estimated^
Q5,595/. averaging rather more than 6/. a house.
There were 1500 uninhabited houses. The annual
Talue of the 3893 houses contributing to the rate
was 114,065 ; the annual average of which is about
29/. 10s. per house. Of the houses which did con-
tribute, some paid half the amount of their propor-
tion of the rate, some a third, and a few only a
fourth. Since the period here referred to, the poor-
rates have increased, to a most distressing amount.
No navigable river flows near the confines of the
town, but industry and art have supplied every
deficiency. From Birmingham, as a centre, twelve
roads branch to as many towns ; and, by the intro-
duction of canal navigation, a communication is
effected on easy terms with the metropolis, and the
principal trading places in the island. — Birmingham
is well lighted ; but the necessary improvement of
paving the foot-ways remains to be executed. In
the bull-ring, or market-place, was erected, in 1809,
a good statue of Lord Nelson, executed by West-
macot. — Birmingham contains three churches, and
five chapels for the exercise of the established reli-
gion ; besides twenty meeting-houses, for various
denominations of dissenters ; and one Jewish syna-
gogue. St. Martin's Church, situated at the upper
end of Digbeth, was the original parochial place of
worship ; and is supposed to have been founded, or
rebuilt, in the 13th century. In 1690, the whole
edifice, except the spire, was cased with brick ; and,
in 1786, it underwent a complete repair. The monu-
ments of the ancient lords of the manor of Birming-
ham, which are treated with little respect by the
modern beautifiers, are plain tombs, supporting re-
cumbent effigies, without inscription. In the early
part of the ISthcentury, Birmingham wasmade to con-
sist of two parishes, by the separation from the rest,
of a triangular portion of the town covering about
one hundred acres. This district received the name
of St. Philip's, and a new church was completed in
1719, of an embellished, but chaste and elegant
character. The steeple is surmounted by a cupola,
and the interior is conspicuous for a tasteful union
of simplicity with decoration. A third religious
edifice, termed" the Free Church, was completed a
few years ago, in a plain but substantial style. This
edifice was designed for the accommodation of the
lower classes, so numerous in Birmingham. St.
John's Chapel, Deritend, is a chapel of ease to the
parish of Aston, originally founded in 1382, but re-
built in 1735. St. Bartholomew's Chapel was built
in 1749, and is sufficiently capacious to contain 800
persons. Two other chapels, St. Mary's and St.
Paul's, were erected in pursuance of an act of par-
liament obtained in 1772. The former is octangular,
but without pretension to beauty ; and St. Paul's is
a respectable building of stone with a low tower ;
the windows, embellished with the story of St. Paul.
St. James's Chapel was intended as a mansion ; but
was consecrated to its present use in 1810, after
having undergone suitable alterations. — The Free-
School at Birmingham was founded and endowed
with the revenue of a Guild, founded there in 1389 ;
which revenue, at the Dissolution, amounted to
31 /. 2s. I Of/., and after having continued in the
Crown some time, was granted by Edward VI. to
certain inhabitants for the foundation of a grammar-
school. The annual income of this institution is,
at present, more than 2000/. with which, seven ex-
hibitioners are sent to the University of Oxford, and
several subordinate schools are supported in different
parts of the town. The Charity, or Blue-Coat-
School, is supported by voluntary contributions,
amounting, in 1813, to 1,327/. 17s. Id. with which
150 orphan boys,, and 40 girls, are maintained and
educated. — The Sunday schools are numerous, and
a dissenters' charity school, for females only, is well
supported and conducted. Large seminaries have
been instituted on the plans of Bell and Lancaster :
in 1809, one on the system of the latter was opened
for
WARWICKSHIRE.
for (he instruction of 400 boys ; and another, on
Bell's plan, supplies instruction to 400 boys and
130 girls, perhaps, even more; since, thanks to the
active benevolence of the age ! these institutions are
daily invigorated and encouraged by new contribu-
tions.— A General Hospital was commenced in 1700,
and two wings were added in 1790. The revenue
amounted, in 1813, to 1945/. besides 1309/. of lega-
cies ; and the number of patients admitted and dis-
charged in that year exceeded 1500. — A Dispensary
was built in 1808, the contributions to which amount-
ed, in 1813, to 600/. ; besides legacies and other
donations, to (he sum of 1200/. In 1813, a central
society was formed. at Birmingham, for the education
of the deaf and dumb, of -whom a considerable
number have been already admitted to the benefit of
tuition. — In the reign of Henry VIII., William
Lench, a native of Birmingham, bequeathed his
estate for the foundation of alms-houses and other
charitable purposes. — Birmingham is furnished with
a handsome Theatre ; two Public Libraries, one of
•which, containing 20,000 volumes, was formed under
the auspices of Dr. Priestley ; a Philosophical
Society, the fellows of which occasionally deliver
public lectures ; a spacious Workhouse, which was
erected 1733; a new Prison built in 1800, at an
expence of 9000/. ; and Barracks, to receive one
hundred and sixty men, erected in 17!)3. — We have
noticed the existence of the iron trade at Bir-
mingham at an early period ; and dated the com-
mencement of its improvement, at the Restoration.
About the middle of the last century, the Birming-
ham manufacturer, who had, till then, been content
to stay at home, and patiently await the visits of
those who held his articles in request, began to
employ the merchant as the vender of his goods;
ami, soon profiting by experience, to depute persons,
connected with his own firm, to dispose of his pro-
duce, at every accessible market. The gilt button,
the painted, japanned, and gilt snuff boxes, with
all the varieties of enamelled articles, were intro-
duced by Mr. John Taylor, who died in 1775. The
manufacture of steel was first practised at Birming-
ham, in the 17th century. Guns were first made in
the reign of William 111., by a person living in
Digbeth ; and they became an article of such general
production, that, during (he late war, six or seven
thousand were forwarded weekly to government.
The manufacture of brass was begun abdlit 1740,
and was, at first, confined to a few rich individuals ;
but is, at length, cultivated on principles of compe-
tition, equally beneficial to the town as to the public.
Much of the success of Birmingham, in commercial
pursuits, has been ascribed to its freedom from the
restrictions of a charter ; the. internal polity being
directed by the following persons annually elected,
who are, in fact, no more than servants to the lord
of the manor :— A high bailiff, a low bailiff, a head-
borough, two high tasters, two low tasters, two
affeirers, and two leather-sealers. The high-bailiff
inspects (he markets ; the low bailiff summons a
TOL. iv. — NO. 170.
jury, who elect all the other officers ; the head-
borough assists the constables ; the tasters inspect
provisions, weights, and measures ; the affeirers
ratify the rent and amercements between the lord
and his tenants ; the leather-sealers are nominal
officers. By acts of parliament of 1752 and 1807,
a court was appointed, consisting of twenty-two
commissioners, who take cognizance of all debts
not exceeding 51. and their determinations are final.
— The weekly market of the bull-ring, where corn
is sold by sample, and the whole area, are crowded
with stalls for the sale of vegetables. — Richard
Smallbroke, Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, was
born at Birmingham, at the beginning of the last
century. — The immediate neighbourhood of Bir-
mingham is made interesting by a great number of
small allotments of garden-ground, public gardens,
'and bowling-greens ; and the adjacent country is
embellished by numerous villas, of which several
are conspicuous for size and elegance. — Edgbastou
Hall, long a mansion of the Middlemore family, was
garrisoned by some of the parliamentarian troops in
the civil war ; and, at the Revolution, was burned
to the.ground by the populace. The present struc-
ture was erected in 1717, by Sir Henry Gough. —
Aston Hall, the seat of Heneage Legge, Esq. was
first erected, by Sir Thomas Holt, Bart, in thereigu
of James I. It was several times plundered during
the troubles of his successor, who was entertained
here for two nights, a short time before the battle
of Edge-hill. Sir T. Holt also endowed an alms-
house for five men, and five women at Aston.
Coleshill, 18 miles N. by W. from Warwick, is situ-
ated on an ascent, at the foot of which flows the river
Cole ; circumstances from which it evidently had its
name. It is one of the towns termed ancient demesne;
and appears, in old records, to have had a castle at
a very early period. The first possessors, after the
Conquest, were the De Clintons, from whom it
passed by marriage to the Mountfort family. Sir
Simon Mountfort was one of the persons who be-
lieved in the personal identity of Perkin Warbeck
and the Duke of York, son of Edward IV. in con-
sequence of which he sent him a sura of money.
For this offence he was hanged at Tyburn, and his
estates granted to Simon Digby, whose descendants,
ennobled in the reign of James I. attained eminence
in various passages of the national history. The
church of C.oleshill, a fine specimen of the orna-
mented gothic, has a square tower, and a lofty
octagonal spire. The monuments whic.h it contains
of the Digby family are numerous ; and, beneath
two arches, are the recumbent effigies of two knights,
in a cross legged position, supposed to be Clintons.
The widow of the first Digby bequeathed certain
possessions for the performance of religious offices ;
but, on their abolition, the revenue was partly ap-
plied to the maintenance of a tree-school. Coleshill
Park was long the seat of the Dfgbys, created Earls
of Bristol, in the reign of James I. This title
became extinct in the Digby family, on the death of
5t the
410
WARWICKSHIRE.
the third carl, in 1698. The present Earl Digby
takes the title of viscount from the town of Coleshill.
Moxhull, in the parish of Wishaw, was long the
properly of the L'Isle family, from whom it passed
to a son of Bishop 11 ticket. It is now ttie property
of Andrew Hacket, Esq.
Sutton Coldfield, 2tt miles N. N. W. from War-
wick, is situated, as its name imports, in a waste,
proverbially bleak and cheerless. Mr. Shaw sup-
poses that the Arch-Druid of Britain had his chief
seat in this neighbourhood. The two Roman roads,
Ickuield Street and the Ridgeway, pass the town at
a short distance. The manor was kept by the Con-
queror in his own hands ; but his successor, Henry I.
granted it to Roger, Earl of Warwick. In the
reign of Henry VJ I. the weekly market had fallen
into disuse, and the town was advancing rapidly to
a state of ruin, when its fortunes were revived by
the benefactions of a native, Bishop Vesey. This
prelate having acquired great riches, granted a
large district to the poor of the parish for the pur-
poses of pasturage ; procured for the town a charter
of incorporation ; built a moot-hall and market-
place ; paved the streets ; founded a free-school ;
embellished the parish church ; and aimed at esta-
blishing a cloth manufactory. — The church is hand-
some, and comprises a nave, chance), and two side
aisles. The burial-ground possesses a peculiarity of
soil, which is found to consume the bodies, deposited
there, with unusual quickness. The municipal power,
consists of a warden, twenty -four assistants, a town-
clerk, a steward, &c. ; the warden performing the
functions of a coroner. — John Vesey, * Bishop of
Exeter, was born at Sutton Coldfield, and educated
at Magdalen College, Oxford. — The extensive and
cheerless tract called Coldfield, lies westward from
Sutton, and much of it in Staffordshire. — Sutton
Park, a demesne containing 3,500 acres, with other
lands, was granted by Bishop Vesey to the corpo-
ration, for the benefit of the poor. Four-Oaks Hall,
on its eastern boundary, is the handsome seat of Sir
Edmund Cradock Hartop, Bart.
Solihull division comprehends Baddesley Clinton,
Balsall, Barston, Berkesvvell, Bickenhill, Elmdon,
Hampton-in-Arden, Kinwalsey, Knowle, Meriden,
Nuthurst, Packington-great, Packington-little, and
Solihull ; in all 14 parishes and hamlets.
Balsall, or Temple Balsall, was given by Roger
de Mowbray, to the knights templars, who built the
church, and founded a preceptory. At the termi-
nation of their institution, in the reign of Edward II.
the knights hospitallers succeeded to their posses-
sions at Balsall ; and, at the General Dissolution,
the manor became the property of Lady Katherine
Leveson, who therewith founded an hospital for the
maintenance of indigent females. The church of
* By Henry YIU. he was made dean of the chapel royal,
tutor to the frincess Mary, and president of Wales. In the
eleventh year of that monarch, he was advanced to the bishop-
ric of Exeter. He wat steadfast in his opposition to toe
Balsall retains its original form of a parallelogram,
104 feet long, 39 broad, and 57 high, without any
internal division. At each side, are three windows,
the heads ramified, and all dissimilar. At the east
end is a pointed window of five lights ; and at the
west end a similar one ; besides a circular window
of twelve compartments. Over one of the deors,
which are small, and four in number, is a turret,
rising as high as the centre of the roof. Among
the sculptured ornaments, is a row of ten heads of
good workmanship ; and near the south-east angle
are three stone stalls. The walls are every where
three feet thick ; and the roof, which is of timber,
was once divided into square compartments ; at the
angles of which were coats of arms. The ancient
hall remains, though much disfigured.— The insti-
tution of Lady Leveson is in a flourishing state, the
number of persons, provided for, having been con-
siderably augmented.
Kuowle, a pleasing village, situated on an emi-
nence, was the property of the renowned Eleanor,
Queen of the first Edward ; and by her given to
the monks of Westminster. Walter Cooke, an
eminent churchman, erected a chapel, founded a
chantry, and, by licence of Henry IV. instituted a
Guild, of which many noble persons became bro-
thers. In conjunction with Laxly Clinton, he also
founded a college of ten chantry priests. In the
chapel, which consists of a nave, two aisles, and a
chancel, are many architectural curiosities, some
grotesque carvings, and the remains of paintings
and stained glass. In a field near Knowle, an urn
was discovered, which contained coins of the lower •
Empire, to the weight of 151b.
Meriden, o/im Alspath, obtained its present appel-
lation from its low and miry situation. The church
contains a handsome alabaster monument of John
Wyard, founder of a chantry there, and a knight of
the shire, in the reign of Richard II. In this parish
is the seat of Wriothesley Digby, Esq.
Great Packington is the property and residence
of the Earl of Aylesford, one of whose ancestors
obtained it by marriage with the daughter of Sir
Clement Fisher. This neighbourhood is said to con-
tain the highest ground in England ; and, certainly,
many points command prospects as extensive as
varied. The late earl who improved the family
residence, studiously imparted to the demesne an
air of wildness, exquisitely pleasing. The parish
church, situated within the limits of the park, was
rebuilt, a few years since, after a design of Bonomi.
Near Packington is the Forest Hall, a small build'-
ing, erected for a company of amateur archers, who
hold periodical meetings.
Solihull (pronounced Silhill) ranks as a market
town, though the market is no longer held. The
innovations of tlie king on the established religion, and was
compelled to resign his bishopric. H-e was, however, rein-
stated by Mary, but abandoned his see, and went to reside at
his native place, where he died in 1553, at the age of 103.
ehurcbj .
WARWICKSHIRE.
411
«hurch, built in the form of a cross, is both spacious
and handsome. In the immediate neighbourhood of
Solihull is Malvern Hall, the residence of Henry
Greswold Lewis, Esq.
Tamworth division comprises Amington and
Stone-Delph Anstrey, Baddesley Ensor, Bolehall
and Glasscote, Grendon with Whittington, Kings-
bury, Midclleton, Newton Regis, Polesworth, Seck-
ington, Shuttington, Tamworth, Tamworth Castle,
and Wilnecote.
Middleton was long the property of the Wil-
loughbys, of whom Sir Thomas Willoughhy was
created Baron Middleton, in 1711. The seat of the
present lord is situated in a finely- wooded demesne.
At Polesworth, was founded the first religious
house in the county ; a nunnery, said to have been
built by Ring Egbert, for the reception of St. Mod-
wena, and her sisterhood. Robert Marmion, to
whom Polesworth was granted, after the Conquest,
conferred large endowments on this institution, which
was also enriched by other benefactors. Consider-
able remains exist, of which the principal are two
circular arches, carved with rude semblances of the
human physiognomy. At Polesworth is a free-
school, which was founded and endowed by Sir
Francis Hethercole.
Seckington was, in the Saxon ages, the theatre of
a furious conflict between Cuthred, King of the
West Saxons, and Ethelwald, King of Mercia ; the
latter of whom was treacherously slain during the
fight, by one of his own officers, named Beornred.
Tamworth, partly situated in Staffordshire, is
noticed in our description of that county.
KINETON.] — The hundred of Kineton, bounded,
northward, by Knightlow ; on the east and south,
by Oxfordshire ; and westward, by Gloucestershire,
and Barlichway hundred ; is composed of four
divisions : — Brailes, Burton-Dasset, Kineton, and
Warwick.
Brailes division comprises Barcheston, Barton-on-
the-IIeath, Brailes, Burmington,Cheriugton,Comp-
ton - Wyngate, Honington, Idlicote, Long Comp-
ton, Pillerton-Hersey, Pillerton-Priors, Stowerton,
Stretton-in-the-Foss, Whatcott, Whichford, Wool-
ford-great, and Woolford-little.
Near Barton-on-the-IIeath, is a large stone,
called four-shire stone, from its forming the point of
junction of the four counties, Gloucester, Worcester,
Warwick, and Oxford. At this village, once resided
an attorney, of so pacific-atory a disposition, that/
unlike many of his brethren, he usually acted as a
mediator, when disputes arose. This anomalous
personage, named Dover, instituted the annual fes-
tivities, termed Cotswold Games, in the year 1600,
which have been celebrated by Jonson and Drayton.
Compton Wyngate received the first part of its
designation from its situation in a valley ; the latter
* This prelate, born at Compton Wyngate, in 163?, after
travelling some years, entered the king's service as a cornet of
tiarse, alter the Restoration ; but soon devoted himself to the
from a vineyard formerly existent there. From this
place the noble family of Compton had their name.
Sir William Compton was page to Henry VIII.
when Duke of York, and was by him raised to high
state and great riches. His grandson was sum-
moned to the House of Lords, by the title of Baron
Compton, of Compton ; and the son of this noble-
man was, in 1618, created Earl of Northampton.
Spencer Compton, the second Earl, was a zealous
adherent of Charles I., in whose cause he fell at the
battle of Hopton Heath. Five of his sons were
knighted, and tin? sixth, made Bishop of London. *
By Sir William Compton, a spacious mansion was
erected, and an extensive park, formed. Over the
porch of the house are the royal arms of England,
beneath, a crown supported by a greyhound and a
griffin ; and on each side are a rose and a crown,
in panels. This venerable seat, now the property
of Charles, Earl of Northampton, is deserted ; and
the old furniture has been disposed of. In 1646,
Compton House was garrisoned by the parliamen-
tary forces, who demolished the neighbouring church,
and mutilated the monuments.
Long Compton is, as its name implies, of great
extent. The common land, supposed to consist of
2500 acres, was lately enclosed.
Weston, long the residence of the Sheldon family,
by whom a mansion was built, and a park formed in
the 16th century, was originally a member of Long
Compton.
Burton Dasset division comprehends Avon Das-
s«tt, Burton Dassett, Farnborough, Penny Comp-
ton, Mollington, Prior's Hardwick, Prior's Marsony
Ratley and Upton, Shottswell, Shuckburgh Inferior,
Warmington with Arlescott, and Wormleighton.
Burton Dasset, now a village composed of a few
scattered houses, was once a place of some note,
having a market and a numerous population. The
lands were enclosed in the 15th century, on which
occasion the inhabitants complained of the evil con-
sequences which followed that measure ; but the
author of the Monasticon observes, that it not only
was not a disadvantage, but that it was a benefit, as-
well to the inhabitants as to the incumbent of the
benefice. -
Farnborough, so called from its situation on a
fern-hearing hill, was long the property of a family,
who took the name of Say, about the time of the
Conquest. The manor, with a handsome seat, is
now vested in William Holbech, Esq. one of whose
ancestors purchased it at the beginning of the last
century.
Ratley, called in Doomsday, Rotc/ci, seems to have
its name from the redness of soil, prevalent in the
neighbourhood. On Edgehill, in this parish, is a tri-i
angular fortification, containing about 12 acres ; near
which some warlike implementshave been discovered.
church. In 1675, he was named to his see, and intrusted with
the education of the Princesses Mary and Anne. He died in
1713, at the age of SI.
A.t
413
WARWICKSHIRE.
At Warmington, a priory of Benedictines was
founded by Henry de Newburgh, Earl of Warwick,
who endowed it with the manor and parish church.
Wormleighton, the property of the Spencers, was
purchased, in the reign of Henry VII. by John
Spencer, Esq. whose descendant was, by James I.
created Baron Spencer, of Wormldghton. The
spacious mansion was built by the first possessor of
this name.
Kineton division includes Atherstone-upon-Stour,
Butlers-Marston, Chadshunt, Compton-Scorfen,
Compton-Ver-ney, Combrook, Eatington, Gaydonr
Halford, Ilmington, Kineton, Lighthorne, Oxhiil,
Radway, Tysoe, with Westcote ; and Whitchurcb,
with Broughton, Crimscott, and VVimpstone.
Atherstone-upon-Stour, a small village situated
upon a stream, from which it derived the latter part
of its designation, was some time the residence of
Dr. Thomas, who wrote a continuation of Dugdale's
Antiquities.
Comptoo Murdak, or Compton-Verney, acquired
these two respective suffixes to its original appella-
tion, from two distinguished families, who succes-
sively held the manor for so long a period, in popular
repute, as to be locally united with it. The Mur-
daks held it from the reign of Henry I. to that of
Edward III. ; the Verneys from the 20 Henry VI.
to the present time. The present proprietor, John
Peyto Verney, Lord Willoughby de Broke, inhabits
a spacious and elegant mansion, built in the last
century, from a design by Adams.
AtCorapton-Scorfen, was born Sir Thomas Over-
bury, the friend and victim of the unprincipled
Somerset, in the reign of James I.
Kineton, 1I| miles S. S. E. from Warwick, is
situated to the north-west from the Edgehills, a ridge
•which forms a natural terrace, five miles in length.
It is supposed to have received its name from a
market for khie, or cattle. Some however believe
that its name, by them written King-ton, implies a
town belonging to the king, from its having been
the property of Edward the Confessor, and retained
by William the Conqueror. It had formerly a castle,
the history of which, in the traditions of the neigh-
bourhood, is connected with King John ; and a well,
at the foot of the eminence on which it stood,' is called
King John's Well.— The battle of Edgehill, the first
between Charles I. and his parliament, was fought,
October 23, 1642. The Earl of Essex, commander
of the parliamentary army, established his quarters
at Kineton before the battle, and there awaited the
approach of the King from Shrewsbury. On Sun-
day, the day of the battle, the royal forces appeared
on the summit of Edgehill, at ten o'clock. Imme-
diately, Essex caused his men to advance in line,
and they were met at the foot of the hill by their
adversaries. The forces of each party were nearly
equal, but raw, and rather impetuous than firm.
On the approach of the King, Sir Faithful For-
tescue, who came to serve against his Majesty,
changed sides ; and Prince Rupert attacking the
enemy's left wing of cavalry, with his usual impe-
tuosity, it gave way, wUilst the other wing was also
routed ; upon which, the King's coips-de-reserve,
rashly supposing the victory complete, joined in the
pursuit. Sir William Bullbur, commander of the
enemy's reserve, seizing his opportunity, fell upon
the Kings infantry, thus abandoned, and turned the
fate of the day. The Earl of Lindsay was mortally
wounded, his son taken prisoner, and Sir Edmund
Verney, killed. Thus the Prince, at his return,
found affairs wearing the aspect of defeat ; and the
King was advised, to quit the field. Both parties
remained under arms during the night, and both
claimed the victory. The list of slain, on both sides,
amounted to 1300, about 500 of whom were thrown
into a neighbouring pit, where a few fir-trees wave
over their remains. Essex first withdrew from the
field, and retired to Warwick ; whilst the King re-
sumed his former quarters.
At Radway, on the side of a hill, is the figure of
I a horse, which, from the colour of the soil in which
| it is formed, is called the Red Horse. The dimen-
i sions are, from the croup to the chest, 34 feet ;
from {he shoulder to the ears, 14 feet ; from the ears
to the nose, 1\ feet ; and, from the shoulder to the
hoof, 16 feet. This figure was designed to com-
memorate the action of the Earl of Warwick, by
which he inspirited his troops before the battle of
Touton. Having caused his horse to be led out
before his troops, he kissed the hilt of his sword,
vowing to share equal danger with the meanest
soldier, and plunged the weapon into the chest of
the noble animal. A decided victory ensued. The
battle was fought on Palm Sunday ; and, on that
day, it is customary for the neighbourhood to as-
semble for the purpose of renewing the figure ; a
usage, the maintenance of which, is the service by
which certain lands are held in the lordship of
Tysoe. The mansion and grounds of F. Miller, Esq.
at Radway, are entitled to notice.
Near Walton Hall, the seat of Sir Charles Mor-
datint, Bart, were discovered, in 1774, three skulls,
with two Saxon jewels, set in gold ; the one an
opal and two rubies ; the other, adorned on both
sides with a cross, between two rude human figures,
each bearing a sword, or lance. The latter has an
inscription, which has been deciphered, " Mary and
Oswald ;" perhaps referring to St. Oswald the patron
of Worcester.
Warwick division includes, besides the town of
Warwick, which has a separate jurisdiction, Bar-
ford, Bishop's Tachbrook, Charlecote, Chesterton,
Kington, Lapworth, Moreton-Morrell, Newboid-
Pacey with Ashorn, Pack wood, Tanworth, Wasper-
ton, Wellsbourne - Hastings, and Wellsboiyne-
Mountford.
At Barford, a small village, on the banks of the
Avon, is the seat of Charles Mills, Esq. ; a desirable
mansion, so situated as to command the most exten-
sive and varied prospects.
Blacklow Hill, near Warwick, is celebrated, as
the
WARWICKSHIRE.
413
the scene of the summary execution of Piers Gave- j
ston ; the circumstances of which are two generally
known, to need repetition. On a part of the rock,
near the summit, is the following inscription :
P. GAVESTON, EARL OF CORNWALL,
BEHEADED HERE -(- 1311*.
"•
At Chesterton, are the remains of a Roman cas-
trametation, in which several old coins have been
discovered, at different periods. This place, situated
on the Foss Way, is supposed to have been the in-
termediate station between Alauna-\ and Benont£$ ;
bein"1 sixteen miles from the former, and twenty
froiri the latter station. The manor was long the
property of the Peito family, of which was Cardinal
Peito, legate from the Holy See, bishop of Salis-
bury, and confessor to Queen, Mary.
Guy's Cliff, a romantic and interesting spot on
the banks of the Avon, is the seat of Bertie Great -
heed, Esq. famed in legendary lore, as the scene to
•which Guy, the renowned champion, retired after
his combat with Colbrand, the giant. The heroic
Henry V. visited Guy's Cliff, and was so much
pleased with the scenery, and its connexion with
the fascinating legend, that he resolved to found a
chantry for two priests. This design was executed,
not by Henry, but by Richard Beauchamp, Earl of
Warwick ; and it is deserving of record, that John
Rous, the antifltiary, resided and officiated her^e as
a chantry prie* About the middle ef the last cen-
tury, the estate became the property of Mr. Great-
heed, whose son, the present owner, has made large
additions to the family mansion, already pre-eminent
in the advantages of site and scenery. The son of
this gentleman, a youth of great promise, who died
in his 23d year, evinced in his childhood an ardent
inclination, and a strong genius, for that glowing
art which bids the canvas live ; and the paternal
residence is enriched with efforts of his pencil. — •
The rock on which the house and chapel are built
presents a front to the Avon, rich in picturesque
beauties, and worthy to be tlie nursery of embryo
genius. A cave is shewn, said to be that which Guy
hewed with his own hands, and in which he lived and
died " a palmer poore." In the chapel, a plain sub-
stantial edifice, is a rude status of Guy, shaped in
the living rock, now much mutilated, but of gigantic
dimensions.
At Newbold-Pacey, is the handsome residence of
William Little, Esq. ; and, at Tamworth that of
Lady Archer. The Archer family, one of whom
•was created, 21 George II., Baron Archer of Um-
berslade, has resided on this spot since the age of
Henry II. The title became extinct by the death of
Andrew, the second lord, in 1778.
Warwick, the capital of the county, fair and
pleasing in its features, and rendered interesting
by traditionary tales, so mixed with fiction as to
* Gaveston, howeyer, was beheaded A. D. 1*312.
VOL. IV. — MO. 170.
defy the efforts of the historian to detect the latent
truth, is situated near the centre of the county, on
the classical stream of the Avon, 90f miles N. W.
from London.
Warwick is only conjectured to have been a Ro-
man station, no remains of that enterprising people
exist ; although the author of the Monasticon pro-
fesses not to doubt that it " was one of the forts and
garrisons, raised on the banks of the Avon by P.
Ostorius." It was probably of Saxon origin : and
JSthelfleda, the daughter of Alfred, founded here,
in 915, a fortified residence, which she termed the
Dungeon ; under the protecting shadow of which
the town rapidly attained population and repute. At
the Norman Survey, it was a borough of 261 houses,
about half of which belonged to the king; the rest,
to his barons, and the burgesses who enjoyed with
them soc and sac, and all customs. Before this
period, the titular Earls of Warwick were merely
officers of the king ; but the Conqueror created the
first of a long line of nobility, beneath whose pro-
tection, Warwick attained real consequence and
celebrity : religious foundations were multiplied ; the
Castle was additionally fortified ; marts or fairs were
instituted ; and such immunities obtained as secured
to the interests of the inhabitants a long course of
prosperity. Henry de Newburgh was created Earl
of Warwick by the Conqueror, and his descendant,
3Iargaret, having married John de Plessitis, the
latter took the title in right of his wife. In the
reign of Edward 1. William de Beauchamp, Earl
of Warwick, held a yearly fair, which lasted six-
teen days, and obtained a grant for another of fifteen
days' duration. In this reign the paving of the town,
and the building of the walls, were begun ; and the
expence was defrayed by a toll on all vendible com-
modities. In the 1 Mary, the town was incorpo-
rated, and in 1572, it was honoured with a visit by
Queen Elizabeth. During the civil war of Charles I.
the castle was garrisoned, and the town filled with,
troops ; whilst several skirmishes occurred in the
neighbourhood. In 1694, Warwick was almost de-
stroyed by fire ; the High Street and a great part
of St. Mary's Church being consumed. The loss
was estimated by some at 90,6007. ; but 120,000/.
was employed in repairing it. This accident, then
felt as a severe calamity, was ultimately productive
of the most beneficial consequences : the houses rose
from their ruin* with more than their former beauty,
and the streets assumed a regularity which they did
not, perhaps, before possess. Leland describes the
town as encompassed by a wall a mile in length^
with two streets which divided the place into four
quarters ; and a church, situated near the centre.
He also observes, that it stands on a rocky declivity,
rising from east to west ; but the principal streets
possess as" much equality of site as is desirable for
purposes of traffic, while they are sufficiently remote
from flatness to advance the great object of cleauU*
Ale ester.
High Cross..
ness,
414
WARWICKSHIRE,
ness, and to produce picturesque effect. At the
extremes of the principal street are two ancient
gates, of plain but impressive appearance. Some
portions of the wall exist, but as they are not more
than four feet thick, it is probable that the whole
work was never of much importance. The churches
were formerly five in number, and were united in-
subordinate to the then collegiate church of St. Mary.
These edifices were St. Helen's, St. Michael's, St.
John the Baptist's, St. Peter's, and St. Laurence's.
The church of St. Mary, made collegiate by Henry
de Newburgh, first Earl of Warwick, of the Nor-
iuan line, was rebuilt in the 14th century, by the
munificence of his successors, the Beauchamps, who
also caused to be erected a stately chapel for their
own cemetery. An inscription on the three faces of
the western tower informs us that, " being destroyed,
1694, by a dreadful fire,which spared neither tern pies
nor houses, this new church, begun and carried on
by the public, was finished by royal piety, under the
joyful auspices of Anne, in the memorable year 1704."
This new building is said to have been designed
after a sketch by Sir Christopher Wren, but every
feature of the structure contradicts the probability
of such a conjecture. Although the building has no
pretensions to beauty, it is sufficiently capacious.
At the west end rises a square tower, 130 feet high ;
and the church, which is cruciform, is 186 feet long
and 66 wide, whilst the cross aisle measures 106
feet 6 inches. Within, is the choir, surrounded by
the monuments of the illustrious and powerful Earls
of Warwick. The choir contains the altar-tomb of
Thomas] Beauchamp, and his countess, Catharine,
daughter of Roger Mortimer, whose effigies, with
36 figures of their nearest relatives, exhibit the
peculiarities of dress prevailing at the period. This
earl died in 1370. His son and successor, Thomas,
governor to Richard II., being banished from court,
retired to Warwick, and among other public works,
completed the collegiate church, ill which, with his
countess, daughter of Lord Ferrers, of Groby, he
was interred, in 1401, under a monument of white
marble, which fell a prey to the flames of 1694. In
the central apartment of three, situated northward
from the choir, is the monument of Sir Fulke Grevil,
Lord Brooke, with this eloquent inscription : —
" Fulke Grevil, servant to Queen Elizabeth, coun-
sellor to King James, and friend to Sir Philip
Sydney :" an epitaph as expressive as it is extra-
ordinary. His lordship was assassinated, in his
75th year, by a domestic, who discovered that his
name had been omitted in his master's will. — The
Chapel of our Lady, often called the Beauchamp
Chapel, was erected in pursuance of the last will of
Richard Bcauchamp, and completed 3 Edward IV.,
at an expence of 2481/. 4s. T\d. an enormous sum in
those days, when bread corn was sold at 3s. 4d. per
quarter. The exterior is a beautiful specimen of the
ornamented gothic style, covered with tracery,
panuels, and other embellishments. The principal
apartment is 58 feet long, 25 wide, and 32 high,
and is furnished with numerous monuments of a
splendid character, among which, and in the centre,
is that of the founder, second to none, but that of
Henry VII, in Westminster Abbey. It is an altar
tomb, of grey marble, on which reposes the figure
of the earl, of brass, gilt ; the head uncovered, and
resting on a helmet ; the hair short, and the beard
curled ; the body is clad in plated armour, and at
the feet are a griffin and a muzzled bear. Over the
effigies is a hearse, of brass hoops, gilt, with the
arms of Beauchamp and others. In splentid niches
round the tomb are 14 images of the surviving re-
latives ; and between them are small whole length
figures of angels, bearing inscribed rolls. The
pious founder of this chapel was one of 'the most
distinguished characters of the 15th century, and
died at the castle of Rouen in 1449. After a lapse
of 200 years, the body was discovered, by the decay
of the chapel floor, to be perfect and fresh, and
the ladies of Warwick made rings of the hair. Ou
the north side of the chapel is the highly embellished
monument of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester,
who died in 1558 ; and, near it, is that of Ambrose
Dudley, Earl of Warwick, who died in 1589. At
the east end is an altar-tomb of a child, the son of
Robert, Earl of Leicester ; and near the north wall
is an inscription to the memory of Lady Katherine
Leveson. On the north side are an oratory and a
confessional ; and, separated from the chapel by an
open screen, are apartments probably designed for
some of the numerous persons retained in support
of the domestic dignity of the Earls of Warwick.
The altar is wrought in basso relievo, with a repre-
sentation of the Annunciation ; and has on each side
a shrine of exquisite workmanship. The windows
are enriched with painted glass, containing portraits
of the founder and others ; and the grand entrance,
which is from the church through a kind of vestibule,
is highly ornamented with tracery, pannels, niches,
and armorial bearings of the Beauchamps. — St.
Nicholas's Church is a respectable stone edifice, with
a square tower and low spire. — The Court-House,
or Town-Hall, was rebuilt in its present form soon,
after the fire of 1694, and the County-Hall, a spa-
cious and ornamented structure, was erected in the
reign of George II. The Market-House is a strong
building of stone, with piazzas. The County-Gaol
is an extensive, and well designed modern fabric,
in the internal disposition of which suitable atten-
tion has been paid to the comfort of its unhappy
tenants. The Bridewell is also a spacious and
modern erection. — The chapel over the west gate
was once united to the church of St. Mary ; and
afterwards belonged to the guild of St. George.
In the 28 Elizabeth, Robert Dudley, Earl of Lei-
cester, founded there an hospital for twelve impotent
men, and one master ; and endowed it with a reve-
nue of 200/. This income hadj in 1811, increased
to the annual sum of 13 1/, to each person ; in con-
sequence of which, an act of parliament was ob-
tained, to increase the number of pensioners to 22,
whose
WARWICKSHIRE.
415
whose allowance will be 80/. and of the master 400/.
Each of the almsmen wears a woollen cloak, on
which is placed, as a badge, the bear and ragged
staff, surmounted by a coronet. The benefits of
this charity are limited to persons born in the coun-
ties of Warwick and Gloucester, or " there dwel-
ling and abiding by the space of four or five years
at least." The buildings consist of lodgings, and
a public kitchen, ranged in a quadrangular form.
The chapel or church, over the east gate, was new-
cased a lew years since ; when so many freedoms
were taken with its original character, as to destroy
its ancient simplicity. It is now used as a school-
house.
The principal streets of Warwick were hand-
somely paved in 1811-12, by subscriptions, amount-
ing to 4,649/. 16s. lOd. Manufactures are carried
on to some extent, particularly the spinning and
weaving of worsted and cotton goods. — Warwick
sent members to parliament, at the beginning of the
representitive system of legislature ; at present, it
returns two, who are chosen by the inhabitants pay-
ing scot and lot. The corporation consists of a
mayor, a recorder, twelve aldermen, twenty-four
common-councilmen, a town-clerk, &e. — There are
places of worship for Quakers, Methodists, Bap-
tists, and other denominations of dissenters. Annual
races are held, and there is a small but neat thea-
tre.*
Warwick Castle, built on a rock, washed by
the Avon, is situated on the south eastern side of
the town. That the foundation took place before
the Conquest, is not doubted ; and it is commonly as-
cribed to . Ktiu'Hlt'dn. A church was contained within
the walls at an early period, and was united in 1125
to the collegiate church of St. Mary. In the furious
contests which agitated the last years of the third
Henry, the rebels being stationed at Kenilworth, and
William Mauduit, the then earl, neglecting to keep
due guard, the castle, almost impregnable by open
assault, was surprised, and all the buildings, except
the towers, levelled with the ground, while the earl
and his countess were carried prisoners to Kenil-
worth. It was rebuilt and much strengthened by
the Beauchamps, who added the remarkable tower
called Guy's. These were succeeded by the Nevils,
the last of whom was that powerful nobleman, sur-
named the King-maker. George, the brother of
Edward IV., was by him created Earl of Warwick ;
the Dudley family succeeded ; and, in the failure of
that line, the title was revived by James I. in the
person of Robert, Lord Rich, whose descendants
enjoyed it, till the year 1759, when Francis, the
descendant of Fulke Grevile, Lord Brooke, -was
created Earl of Warwick. The present earl suc-
ceeded to the family honours in 1773. The approach
to the castle is a broad, winding' path, cut through
the solid rock. Three towers, more than 100 feet
high, present themselves to the astonished view ;
while the entrance is flanked by embattled walls,
clad with ivy. The moat, now dry, is traversed by
a stone bridge. From the great court are seen the
perfect outlines of rugged fortifications, softened by
the tasteful hand of domestic architecture ; the
whole, shaded with ivy. In this area is an artificial
mount of vast elevation, surmounted by a fortified
edifice. A grand face of the building fronts the
river, where the rook rises perpendicularly to a con-
siderable height. This front has all the irregularity
! of buildings constructed for purposes of security
| arid strength. In the interior, domestic elegance,
and a warm love of the arts, have combined, in more
recent periods, to decorate the halls ; yet, in evident
and grateful congruity with the antique castellated
| outlines of the edifice. The grand suite extends in
; a right line 333 feet. The hall, a noble room, 62
| feet by 37, is paved with black and white stone,
I wainscotted, and hung with armour. The ante-
I -chamber has a floor of polished oak, and is embel-
lished with a portrait of Lady Brooke, and a little
I boy. The cedar drawing-room has the sides of
cedar carved, the floor of oak, and the ceiling highly
ornamented. This room contains several Etruscan
vases, and some excellent portraits, by Vandyck,
Guido, and Rotnney. The gilt room contains an
Etruscan vase, and some portraits by Vandyck and
Rubens. The state bed-chamber, hung with curious
tapestry made at Brussels, contains the bed furniture
of Queen Anne, numerous paintings, by Titian,
Holbein, Rubens, VandeVwerf, and Zucchero, and
some fine antique vases. The prospect, from each
of these rooms, is picturesque beyond expression.
One of the galleries contains a fine collection of old
English plate armour ; another is embellished with
several pictures of much interest. The park attach-
ed to this noble castle is very extensive, finely
adorned with wood and water, and laid out in an
exquisite style of simplicity. In a green-house,
erected for the purpose, is an antique vase of large
i dimensions, presented to the Earl of Warwick, by
! Sir William Hamilton. It is of white marble, of a
circular form, and decorated with Bacchanalian
emblems. The basin will hold 163 gallons. The
i sword, shield, helmet, &c., said to have belonged
i to the renowned champion, Guy, are preserved in
one of the rooms of Caesar's Tower. — In the reign
of Henry II. a priory was founded by Henry de
1 Newburgh, Earl of Warwick, which, at the Dis-
solution, was granted to Thomas Hawkins. This
person erected, on the ancient site, a spacious and
eligible residence, to which he gave the name of
i Hawk's Nest. The mansion is now the residence of
I William Welby, Esq.
KNIGHTLOW.] — The hundred of Knightlow,bouud-
* Walter of Coventry, a Benedictine monk of the 12th cen-
tury, was born at Warwick, and wrote a history of England
from the earliest periods till bis own time.— John ilous, the an-
tiquary, was also a native of Warwick, and became a chantry
priest at Guy's Cliff, where he composed several works chiefly
historical, and died in 1491.
ed,
410
WARWICKSHIRE.
i>(!, on the north, by Hemlingford hundred, and the
county of Coventry ; on the east, by the counties of
Leicester and Northampton ; on the south, by Kine-
ton ; and, on the west, by Kineton and Barlichway ;
comprehends the four divisions, Kenilworth, Kirby,
Rugby, and Southam.
Kenilworth division includes Ashow, Bagtnton,
Buhhenhall, Cubbington, Harbury, Kenilworth,
Leamington Priors, Leek Wootton, Lillington, Mil-
verton with Edmonscot, OfFchurch, Radford-Semele,
Stoneleigh, Tachbrook-Mallory, Ufton, Whitnash.
Baginton Hall, the seat of Mrs. Price, a de-
scendant of the Bromley family, who purchased the
estate in the reign of James I., was built by Secre-
tary Bromley. This gentleman, one of the most
honest, and able servants of Queen Anne, was
Speaker of the House of Commons. In proof of
the high estimation in which he was held, it is
necessary only to cite a memorable circumstance,
relative to the residence under notice. In 1706,
the family seat at Baginton was reduced to the
ground by fire. Intelligence of this calamity was
conveyed to the owner, while attending his duty
in the House of Commons, and a considerable sum
•was immediately voted by parliament towards a re»
storation of the structure.
Kenilworth was divided, at the Conquest, into
two parts, of which one was held of the king, by
Albertus Clericus, " in pure almes ;" the other, by
Richard the Forester; Henry I. gave the manor to
Geoffrey de Clinton, who founded here " a potent
castle and a monastery." — The Castle, which, when
entire, formed so noble an ornament to the town,
still imparts melancholy grandeur to the neighbour-
hood, by the unusual magnificence of its ruins.
Henry II. placed here a garrison, when his eldest
son rebelled against him, and both John and his
successor expended large sums on such buildings as
contributed to render the fortress more defensible.
The latter king granted it to Simon Montfort, after
whose defeat and death at Evesham, his son- main-
tained himself in this fortress, whence, with an affec-
tation of sovereign authority, he sent fortli bailiffs,
officers, and bands of soldiery, on predatory excur-
sions. On the approach of the king, however, he
fled to France; but the castle, which he left under
the command of Henry de Hastings, sustained a
vigorous siege, and surrendered only on being re-
duced by sickness and famine to the greatest extre-
mity. In the 7 Edward I. a costly and gallant
tournament was held at KeniUvorth, whither repaired
many foreigners of distinction ; and it is recorded
of the ladies, as an instance of their splendid attire,
that they wore silken mantles. On the attainder of
Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, son of Earl Edmund,
on .whom the fortress had been bestowed by his
father, King Henry III., Edward II. designed to
retire to this castle from the storms which lie saw
brooding around him ; but he was brought hither a
prisoner. The son of John of Gaunt, Henry IV.
and his successors on the throne, possessed Kt-nil-
worth Castle, till Elizabeth conferred it on Robert
Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who expended great
sums in adorning and enlarging the structure, and
had the honour of entertaining his royal mistress,
in a manner so magnificent, that a notice of the fes-
tivities is a necessary page in the national history.
" Her Majesty," says a chronicler of the time, and
an attendant in her court, " was met in the park,
about a slight shool from the Brayz and first gate of
the castle," by a person representing " one of the
ten sihills, cumly clad in a pall of white sylk, who
pronounced a proper poezie in English rime and
meeter." The porter, the lady of the Lake, and
others, then " greeted her Majestic with, a well
penned meeter," expressive of the " auncientee of
the castle," and the hereditary dignity of the Earls
of Leicester ; and a burst of music closed this part
of the ceremony. On " a fayr bridge," over a dry
valley leading to the castle gates, were seven pairs
of posts, each crowned with some costly offering to
her Majesty of live birds, rare frui$, gilded corn,
sea-fish (a rich presentation at that period, for a
host in an inland situation) armorial bearings, and
instruments symbolical of the arts. A long Latin,
poem in her praise, inscribed over the castle gate,
was then read to her. " So passing inteo the
inner coourt, her Majesty (that never rides but
alone) thear set down from her palfrey, was con-
veied up to chamber, when after did folio a great
peal of Gunz, and lightning by Fyrwork." The
festivities, lasted seventeen days, in which a con-
stant succession of banquets and diversions left n»
vacant hour. — Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester,
died without acknowledged legitimate issue ; and
his supposed natural son, Sir Robert Dudley, came,
shortly after, into possession of the castle ; but he
quitted the kingdom, and, not returning, his estates
were seized for the use of the Crown. The estate
was possessed by King Charles at the commence-
ment of the civil war, and shared the disastrous
fortunes of its owner. Cromwell granted the whole
manor to certain officers of his army, who demolish-
ed the splendid fabric, in order to sell the materials.
The ruins are very extensive, and are in many parts
overgrown with ivy and other climbing plants. The
walls of a tower, called Caesar's, part of the original
fortress, are sixteen feet thick. In the part built by
Lancaster, are seen the relics of the great hall of
entertainment, 86 feet long, and 45 broad. ,In the
Gate-house, which is in good preservation, and
occupied by a farmer, is a large and curious chim-
ney-piece, of alabaster, with the armorial bearings,
crest, and motto of the Leicester family. This,
with the oak waiuscotting of the room, was brought
from one of the principal apartments of the Lan-
caster buildings. — The monastery, founded by Geof-
frey de Clinton, stoo.d east-ward from the castle.
The remains consist chiefly of some fragments of
the wall, and the mutilated gate of entrance.
Leamington Priors, the Spa of Warwickshire,
was known by Camdea and others to posses a salt
spring ;
WARWICKSHIRE.
417
spring; but it \vns only in 1797, that Dr. Lamb
analyzed the waters, and found them to contain
medicinal properties of the most efficacious descrip-
tion. A person who contributed much to render
these natural treasures useful to the community,
and especially to that part of it who, as they most
need such remedies, are often least able to procure
them, was Benjamin Satchwell, an industrious
tradesman, who exerted himself, with ultimate suc-
cess, to institute a charity for the gratuitous relief
df distressed invalids. The waters are used botli
internally, and for the purpose of bathing. Besides
numerous buildings for the private accommodation
of the opulent, there are hotels, a theatre, a pump-
room, an assembly-room, and a news-room ; and
the surrounding scenery is truly rural and attractive.
The season lasts from April to November.
Offchurcbj now a small village, is said to have
been a place of note in the Saxon era. At the Dis-
solution of religious houses, the manor, which had
belonged to. the priors of Coventry, was granted
to the family of Knightjey, from whom the present
owner is descended. His residence is Offchurch
Bury, an antique edifice, marked by a profound air
of retirement. ^
At. Stoneleigh, an abbey of Cistercian monks was
founded in 1154, the possessions of which were
granted, at the Dissolution, to Charles Brandon,
Duke of Suffolk ; but, shortly after, passed to Sir
Thomas Leigh, who erected a spacious mansion on
the site of the abbey. Sir Thomas Leigh, his great
grandson, who was a faithful adherent to Charles I.
was by that monarch created Baron Leigh, of Stone-
leigh. A strong attachment of loyalty to the Stuarts
pervaded this family, through the whole succession
of its lords, even to the last, who died near the close
of the 18th century. The estate belongs at present
to James Henry Leigh, Esq. — Stoneleigh Abbey,
situated near the Avon, here of great width, consists,
in part, of the ancient building ; the rest was erected
about eighty years since, by Edward, Lord Leigh.
— The church is a large, and irregular gothic pile,
containing several monuments of the Leigh family,
among which is one sacred to Alice, Duchess Dud-
ley, wife of Sir Robert Dudley, and their daughter.
This lady, who was the daughter of Sir T. Leigh,
did not accompany her accomplished husband on his
retirement from England, but died at her house near
St. Giles's Church, at the age of ninety. — Here are
alms-houses for five unmarried men, and as many
unmarried1 women, founded, 19 Elizabeth, by the
lady of Sir Thomas Leigh.
Kirby division contains the following parishes,
hamlets, and townships: — Allesley, Arley, Astley,
Bedvvortli, Binley with Earnsford, Brandon and
Bretsford, Brinklow, Bulkington, Burton Hastings,
Combe-Fields, Copston, Coundon, Easenhall, Har-
borough Magna, Monks-Kirby, Pailton, Shilton,
Sow, StrcUon-Buskerville, Stretton-under-Foss,
and Newbold-llevel, Wibtoft, Willenhall, WHley,
Wolveley, and Whythebrook with Jlopsford.
VOL. IT. — NO. 171.
Allesley Park, the seal of the Rev. J. Neale, was
vested, at an early period, in the family of Hastings,
who had here a spacious residence, traditionally
termed a castle. Of this ancient abode, nothing
remains but a well. The church of Allesley was
originally a chapel of the priory of Coventry.
Astley was held, in the reign of Henry II. by
Philip de Estley, of the Earl of Warwick, by the
service of holding the earl's stirrup when he mount-
ed, or alighted from his horse. From this person
are descended two families, seated at Hill Morion,
in this county, and at Pattishul, in Staffordshire.
In the reign of Henry V. the estate passed by
marriage to the Greys of Ruthin, from whom it
descended to Henry Grey, Marquis of Dorset, and
Duke of Suffolk, beheaded in the reign of Queen
Mary. The manor belongs at present to F. P. New-
digate, Esq. Astley Castle is surrounded by a moat,
along the inner edge of which lie the remains of
massive walls. The habitable part of the mansion
is probably not older than the time of Mary ; but
it is clad in a garb of ivy, and other evergreens,
which renders it singularly picturesque. In one
room is preserved a portrait of the factious Suffolk,
respecting whose capture, the following particulars
are related : — " Finding that he was forsaken, he
put himself under the trust of one Underwood, as
'tis said, a keeper of his park here at Astley, who
hid him for some few days in a large hollow tree,
standing about two bow-shots from the church ;
but, being prpmised a reward, he betrayed him."
The church of Astley, having been made collegiate,
by Lord Thomas de Astley, was by him rebuilt} and
adorned with a spire so lofty, that it served as a
land-mark in the deep woodlands of the district,
and was popularly termed the Lanthorn of Arden. —
The interior is curious and interesting ; although
many monuments and decorations have been re-
moved or destroyed at various times. On an altar-
tomb, at the west end, are the effigies, in alabaster,
of a warrior and a lady ; and, on another, is the
mutilated figure of a female, in a recumbent pos-
ture : both are without inscription.
Arbury Hall, the seat of Francis Parker New-
digate, Esq. was erected on the ruins of an ancient
priory. The late Sir Roger Newdigate, Bart, was
the projector of considerable modern additions, which
are mostly in the compendious gothic style, uniting
extreme lightness and grandeur. In the dining-
room, besides some good casts from the antique,
is the top of a sarcophagus, on which is sculptured
the marriage of Bacchus and Ariadne. The draw-
ing-room is decorated in a style resembling the
gothic, peculiarly chaste, and contains five whole
length family portraits The ceiling of the saloon
is an imitation of Henry VII. 's Chapel. A room,
adjoining, contains a curious painting of the ex-
ploits of John de Astley, a valiantkuight of the
15th century. This ancient picture, an heir-loom
to Astley Castle, was removed hither solely with a
view to its preservation. The chapel alone of all
5 N the
418
WARWICKSHIRE.
the apartments remains untouched by the tasteful
liand of the improver. The late Sir Roger New-
digate, Bart, educated at University College, Ox-
ford, was in many sessions' the representative
of that seat of learning in parliament. Of his at-
tachment to this scene of his youthful studies, and
his zeal for its interests, he gave the most sub-
stantial proofs. He died at Arbury, in 1806, at
the age of 88.
At Binley, the church is conspicuous for its re-
spectable, and simply ornamented character. In
the east window is a stained representation of the
Holy Family ; and the coved roof is embellished
with medallions containing scriptural allusions.
At Brandon, on the Avon, are the ruins of an
ancient castle, consisting of a few fragments of a
massive wall.
At Briuklow was a castle which belonged to the
Mowbrays, and the De Stutevilles successively. Few
vestiges of this building remain ; and the village is
remarkable, chiefly for the traces of an encamp-
ment visible on the Foss-way. Near Brinklow, is
Newbold Revel, a seat of the Skipwith family.
Calndon, originally a member of Coventry, after
passing through the hands of the Earls of Chester,
the Seagraves, and the Mowbrays successively, is
now vested in the Lords Clifford. In the castellated
mansion, of which small remains exist, Thomas
Mowbray lodged before his intended combat with
tfie'Duke of Hereford ; and advanced from thence
" on a horse barded with crimson velvet, embroy-
dered with lions of silver, and mulbery-trees," in
allusion to his name.
Combe Abbey was built on the site of a religious
house, founded in the reign of Stephen for monks
of the Cistercian order. After the Dissolution, the
possessions passed through various hands before
they came to the ancestors of the Earl of Craven,
the present proprietor ; the greatest part of the pre-
sent edifice was erected by Lord Harrington, who,
in its architectural disposition, appears to have at-
tended to the shape of the original building. Con-
siderable remains of cloisters, consisting of Norman
arches and pillars, are visible, on the inner face of a
corridor, hung with antlers, of every growth and
size. The interior of this ancient mansion, than
which few contain apartments better suited to pur-
poses of state and dignified hospitality, is rich in
portraits, particularly of the Stuart family. — Wil-
liam, Lord Craven, was the most devoted champion
of Elizabeth of Bohemia, daughter of James I., and,
after vainly struggling to reinstate the elector pala-
tine, her husband, on the throne of Bohemia, on the
death of that prince, he was privately married to
her, though political motives forbade the public
avowal of their nuptials. By will she bequeathed
to this nobleman her collection of pictures, including
many portraits, from Germany. The great gallery
is hung with portraits, among which are those of
* This lady was the only daughter of Sir Thomas Myddlelon
the King and Queen of Bohemia, Princes Rupert
and Maurice, Charles II. at the age of 1-4, Gustavus
I Adolphus, William, Earl of Craven, and Sir Kenelm
: Digby, by Vandyck in his best manner. The break-
fast room is adorned with landscapes, by Lootens ;
: and the north parlour, with portraits of Frederic V.
of Bohemia, by Honthorst; Elizabeth of Bohemia,
by the same ; James, Duke of Richmond, the faithful
servant of Charles I., by Vandyck ; with many
others. The Vandyck room contains portraits of
i the Princes Rupert and Maurice, in early life ;
Charles I. and his queen on one canvas, by Van-
dyck, and the portrait of the artist painted by him-
self. The gilt parlour is rich in the works of Rem-
brandt, Zoust, Miereveld, and Vandyck ; with a
portrait of William, Lord Craven, by Honthorst.
In the beauty parlour, are 22 portraits of ladies, of
which some are by Sir P. Lely. Finally, the cedar
room is embellished with a sea-piece, by Willarts ;
and Moses with the brazen serpent, by Rubens.
At Monk's Kirby, written in Doomsday Chirch-
berye, have been discovered foundations of old walls,
Roman bricks, and other vestiges, whence it may
be concluded that the Romans had a station there.
Geoffrey de Wince, the first lord, after the Conquest,
founded a priory of the order of St. Nicholas.
Newnham Padox, the seat of the Earl of Denbigh,
was purchased by his ancestors in the reign of
Henry VI. The mansion, which is substantial and
commodious, is embellished with family portraits by
Vandyck and others, besides a good selection frond
the works of the old masters. — High Cross, four
miles from Newnham, is the presumed Benontc
of Antoninus ; and, on this spot, was erected, in
1712, a pillar, by Basil, Earl of Denbigh, and some
neighbouring gentlemen.
Rugby division includes the following parishes,
townships, hamlets, &c. — Bilton, Bourton-iipon-
Dunsmoor with Draycot, Brownsover, Churchover,
Clifton, Cosford, Dunchurch with Toft, Frankton,
Hill-Morton, Lawford Church, Lawford Little,
Lawford Long, Newbold-upon-Avon, Newnham
Regis, Newton and Biggin, Rugby, Ryton-upon-
Dtinsmoor, Stretton-upon-Dunsraoor, Thurlaston,
Willoughby, and Wolston with Marston.
At Bilton, is the mansion inhabited by Addison
after his matrimonial connexion with the Countess
of Warwick. He purchased it for 10,000/. in 171 1,
and probably made some additions which seem to
belong to that time. The furniture, used by that
great man, remains, as do the pictures selected by
his judgment. The most valuable pieces are por-
traits, many of which were introduced by his con-
sort ; others, purchased by Addison, are the works
of Vandyck, Vansorners, and Lely. A portrait of
the countess in her thirtieth year has a mild and
handsome face, and an expression peculiarly attrac-
tive ; as has another painted when she was ten
years older, at the period of Addison's love*. A
of Chirk Castle, Derbyshire. Addison is said to have been
intro-
WARWICKSHIRE.
4 $9
third portrait is of Miss Addison*, when- five or six
years old. Others are of the Earl of Warwick,
Addison's son-in-law ; Sir Thomas Myddleton, the
countess' father ; Mr. Secretary Craggs ; George
Villicrs, Duke of Buckingham, in an attitude allu-
sive to his expedition to the continent with the
Prince of Wales ; a whole length of Prince Rupert ;
Dryclen, Lord Halifax, the Earl of Holland, and
Admiral the Earl of Warwick. The gardens are
extensive, and laid out in the straight formal taste
of our ancestors. A long walk, the chosen retreat
of Addison, and still termed Addison's walk, was
shaded with Spanish oaks, planted by his hand, and
now — cut down ! Miss Addison bequeathed the
Bilton estate to the Hon. John Simpson, who has
hitherto let the house and the furniture. — The church
has a delicate octangular spire, and is throughout
of fair proportions, and a respectable style of gothic
architecture. In the chancel lie the remains of the
only daughter of Addison, without inscription or
other memorial !
Brownsover, the birth-place of Lawrence Sheriff,
the founder of Rugby School, is situated on a rising
ground near the confluence of the Avon and the
Swift. In this agreeable situation, Sir Egerton
Leigh, Bart, has a commodious family mansion, to
•which he has made large additions.
At Churchover, are the remains of a considerable
tumulus. The whole eastern side of this division
is rich in remains of the Romans, whose station,
Triponlium, lies in the vicinity.
Coton House, a handsome stone mansion, erected,
a few years since, by A. Grimes, Esq. near the site of
an ancient pile, stands on an elevated spot, com-
manding views of the counties of Northampton and
Warwick.
At Dunchurch, a free-school was founded in 1707,
by Francis Boughton, Esq. for the education of poor
children of both sexes in the parish ; and, near the
school is a range of alms-houses, founded and en-
dowed by Thomas Newcombe, Esq. for three poor
men, and as many widows, born in the parish. The
church is a gothic edifice, with a tower, and porch
of considerable beauty. The tower has a painted
•window and door of curious workmanship. The
interior contains traces of a piscina, and a slab in
memory of Thomas Newcombe, Esq. and of his
»0n, the founder of the almshouses.
At Knightlow Cross, is a small mount or tumulus,
introduced to her in quality of tutor to her son, and to have
conceived from the first an attachment to her person. In 1706
he was made under secretary of state. He married in 1716,
but that event was not productive of a permament accession to
his comfort. In the following year, he was appointed princi-
pal secretary of state, but did not long retain his office ; and
expired at Holland House, under the immediate pressure of an
asthmatic attack, June 17, 1719.
* This lady was born in London, 12 months before the
death of her father, and was educated in Queen's Square, Lon-
don. She inherited, in a great degree, her fathers strength of
memory ; but unhappily his other intellectual powers came to
her, fearfully impaired. For many years she was subject to
occasional derangement, and on this account, lived in great re-
on the summit of which is a block of stone, and,
at each of the corners, a fir-tre«. A hollow basin
is formed in the stone, where certain dues, called
Wratk-money, are deposited by some parishes in
the hundred.
At Little Lawford, not long since stood the man-
sion of the Boughtons, now levelled with the ground.
The last male heir, Sir Theodosius Edward Alles-
ley Boughton, Bart, met with his death by poison,
prepared by the hand of his brother-in-law, Captain
John Donellan, who was to inherit the property, in
right of his wife ; but who, for this crime, underwent
the usual sentence of the law. The manor now be-
longs to John Caldecote, Esq. who has established
lime-works, and constructed a handsome residence.
Newnham Regis, once the property of the king,
was enjoyed by the canons of Kenilworth from the
time ot Henry I. till the Dissolution. The church
has long been desecrated, and little of it remains
except the tower : the cemetery, in which was in-
terred Sir Francis Leigh, Earl of Chichester, i*
part of a farm-yard. Near the Avon, is a weak
chalybeate spring, efficacious in scorbutic com-
plaints.
At Newton was born, in 1691, Edward Cavef,
the designer and original publisher of the Gentle-
man's Magazine.
Rugby, seated on a healthful and pleasing emi-
nence, nineteen miles east-north-east from War-
wick, consists of several clean and cheerful, but
ill-paved streets. In Doomsday Survey the name
was written Rocheberie, and, shortly after, Itokeby,
which mode of spelling prevailed through several
centuries. A small castle was founded here, it is
supposed, in the reign of Stephen ; but nothing
important is recorded of the place till the close of
the sixteenth century, when a school was founded,
which now ranks among the best in the kingdom.
Rugby School was founded in the ninth of Eliza-
beth, by Lawrence Sheriff, grocer, of London, as a
free grammar-school for the children of the parishes
of Rugby and Brownsover, and " next for such
as were of other places, thereto adjoining." For
its endowment he bequeathed a mansion at Rugby,
and eight .acres of land in Lamb's Conduit Fields,
termed the Conduit Close. — These eight acres of
land were, at that time, of trivial value, but, on the
expiration of a long lease of the property, a ground
rent of more than 16UO/. accrued to the charity ;
tirement. Towards the close of her long life, an habitual deaf-
ness increased, and she became painfully infirm and helpless.
She resided chiefly at Bilton, where she died in March, 1797.
t His family had long resided on a small entailed estate,
called Cave's-in-the-Hole; and he was educated at Rugby
School, on leaving which he became a clerk in the excise; but
afterwards bound himself apprentice to a printer. He then ob-
tained a place in the post-office, which he lost by resisting
abuses in the privilege or franking; and having purchased a
small printing-office, he commenced the Gentleman's Maga-
zine, by which he realized a considerable fortune. He died in
1754, at the age of 63, and was buried in the church of St.
James's, Clerkenwcll.
aed
420
WARWICKSHIRE.
arid it is expected, (hat when the leases then granted
shall terminate, the revenues will amount to several
thousand pounds. The trustees of this uohle insti-
tution are twelve in number ; and the principal
nobility .and gentry of the county discharge the
office with zeal and activity ; holding regular meet-
ings, and attending an annual examination in the
month of August. Fourteen students enjoy an al-
lowance of 40/. per annum, called an exhibition, for
their support, during the term of seven years, at
any college or hull, iu either university. The
scholars are about 350 in number, of whom 50 are
on the foundation. The ancient buildings, consist-
ing of an humble tenement, the residence of the
head master, a principal, and two or three addi-
tional school-rooms, having become too contracted
for the accommodation of an increased number of
pupils, were, in 1808, removed, and a new struc-
ture erected, in the style of architecture which
prevailed in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the
period of which the school was founded. This
edifice is of great extent, and in every respect
suited to the purposes for which it was designed.
The principal front faces the south, and extends
320 feet ; the whole is massive, and interesting,
from a graceful disposition of parts rather than from
plenitude of decoration. It has been long in con-
templation to render this excellent institution com-
plete, by the erection of a private chapel, as the
parish church is incapable of accommodating one
half of the pupils. The beneficent founder * of .Rug-
by School, caused also alms-houses to be erected for
four poor men, with a suitable endowment. There
is a second school at Rugby, which was built and
endowed by Richard Elborow, in the year 1707, for
30 boys ; and attached to the school are alms-houses
founded by the same person for six widows. The
church is distinguished by no object of interest, and
is much too small for the present population. North-
•ward from the church, are some vestiges of the
castle, consisting of an eminence, probably a heap
of ruins, and a small part of the moat. The Gram-
mar-School of Rugby is its great support ; new
buildings are continually rising, many of them of
a solid and ornamental description.
At Wolston, was an alien priory, founded shortly,
after the Conquest ; but disposed of, by the Abbot
of St, Peter's super Dinain, in France, to which it
was a cell, to the Carthusian convent, near Coven-
try, in the reign of Richard II. The church, evi-
dently raised a,t different and even distant periods,
is in the form of a cross, plain, but capacious. A
round-headed doorway on the south side, of rude
workmanship, may be regarded as the fragment ol
a still more ancient structure, of which mention is
* Lawrence Sheriff was born at Brownsover, and kept a
grocer's shop, near Newgate Market, London. He was like-
wfise a servant.te Elizabeth, before the accession of that princess
to the throne. That he was prudent and moderately successful
we have good" proof; an. I, it is probable that, in the decline
made in Doomsday. Wolston House, the seat of
Mrs. Scott, is an extensive brick edifice. On the
south bank of the Avon are the remains of a Roman
ncampment.
Southam division includes Ascote, Birdingbury,
Granborough, Hides- Pastures, Hodnell, lloning-
m, Itchington-bishop's, Itchington-long, Lad-
brooke, Leamington-Hastaiig, Marton, Napton-ou-
t he-Mill, Radbourn-lower,Radbourn-upper, Shuck-
burgh-upper, Southam, Stockton, Wappenbury with
Eathrope, Watergall, Weston-under-Wetherby,
Will's Pastures, and Wolfhamcote.
Birdingbury was given by Earl Leofric to the
Benedictine monks of Coventry, who granted it to
the family of Hastings. It is now the property of
Sir Theophilus Biddulph, Bart, who has here a
venerable mansion.
Herdwick is a hamlet to Leamington-Hastang,
and gave a surname to a branch of the Hastang
family, the last of whom, John Herdwick, of Lind-
ley Hall, was the man " of whom the tradition
goeth" that, by his good conduct, the Earl of
Richmond " got the advantage of the ground,
winde, and sunne," at Boswortb.
Leamington-Hastaug, situated on the Leame, was
long the seat of the Hastangs, who here main-
tained an establishment in the style of rude splen-
dour, habitual to the chieftains of the early ages.
A subsequent proprietor was Sir Charles Wheeler,
Bart, whose widow founded and endowed an alms-
house for two poor persons. There is also an hos-
pital for eight poor people of the parish, founded,
5 James I. by Humphrey Davis. The Rev. Sir
Charles Wheeler, BarL has here an agreeable resi-
dence.
Long Itchington, seated on the bank of the little
river Ichene, was long, by an extraordinary train
of coincident circumstances, the property of indi-
viduals of degraded morals and broken fortunes.
One was hanged for felony ; a second, out-lawed ;
a third, convicted of robbery; and a fourth, in
danger of being famished. At length, the estate
passed to the Earl of Leicester, who entertained
here his royal mistress, Queen Elizabeth, in 1575,
when magnificent preparations were made i'or her
reception, and a tent pitched, -which, " for number
and shift of large and goodlye roomz, might be
comparable with a beautifull pallais," having "• sea-
ven cart lode of pynz pertaining too it." This vil-
lage was the birth-place of St. Wolstan, who was
educated at Peterborough Abbey, and consecrated
Bishop of Worcester, in 1062.
Soatham, situated on the road from Warwick to
the metropolis, 10| miles E. S. E. from the former,
derives its principal emoluments from the traffic
of life he retired to Rugby, the neighbourhood of his native
place, and resided in the "mansion," which he afterwards
bequeathed, as a residence for the master of bis grammar-
school.
and
WARWICKSHIRE.
421
between those places. In Doomsday, the name is
written Sucham, and the town is said to belong to
the king. The church is a handsome gothic build-
ing, with a square tower and spire.
Upper Shuckburgh has been the property of the
Shuckborough family, since the 10 Henry VI. when
John Shuckborough, Esq. held a manor here, by
the fourth part of a knight's fee. Shuckburgh Hall,
the seat of this ancient family, is a handsome resi-
dence surrounded by a park, well stocked with deer.
The church, which is of' stone, contains many monu-
ments of the Shuckburghs, and some stained glass,
chiefly by Egginton. Tftere is a tragical story of
events connected with this place, which we cannot
forbear reciting. The daughter of the late Sir
Stewkley Shuckburgh, was addressed by a Lieute-
nant Sharp, of the Bedfordshire militia, and favour-
ed his pretensions so far as to exchange several
letters with him ; but her parents having interdicted
further intercourse, she desired that these tokens of
confidence might be mutually restored. For this
purpose, they were to be deposited in a summer-
house of the gardens. On Sunday morning, March
26th, 1809, Miss Shuckburgh, having the preceding-
night placed the letters of her lover in the summer-
house, went thither in the expectation of finding
her own ; but the wretched dupe of passion, had
awaited her there through the night ; and, having
first made a final, but unsuccessful attempt to recal
her tenderness, destroyed both her arid himself. —
It appears that from the moment when he became
assured of Miss Shuckburgh's intention to pay
laudable deference to the decision of her natural
guardians, he conceived the dreadful idea of de-
stroying both her and himself: for his reply to her
intimation was, " You shall have your letters, and
I will have revenge — revenge is sweet, and revenge
arising from disappointed love is most inveterate."
By excessive potations, he wrought himself to a
pitch of feeling, bordering on frenzy, during which
he contemplated the means of wreaking his revenge.
Two letters of his, being found unopened in the
summer-house after the perpetration of the catas-
trophe, fully proved that the interview, on Miss
Shuckburgh's part, was unpremeditated : that she
went solely for the purpose of leaving the letters
which she had received from him, and of obtaining
her own. Those found unopened were dated on the
24th, and the 26th of March : the former ran thus :
"Caroline! O my beloved Caroline ! lean but a
short time longer endure your cruel scorn ; prepare
to hear the worst of me, and take care of yourself.
O ! my heavens ! how loth I am to die, but you
compel me to leave you ; for, was ever the time to
come when you would have no parents to oppose
your will, I dare not, cannot think you would make
me happy. I wish once more to read your dear
letters, and then, on my honour, I will bring them
to the cave to-morrow night, and shall expect to
find mine in the same place on Sunday night." — In
a postscript, he added — " What would have been
your feelings, (if you have any feelings) had you
found me with my brains blown out at the cave
this morning, which certainly would have been the
case, had I not put such confidence in your coming
to meet me? — Had you seen my brains scattered
on the earth, you could have taken my letter from
my cold hand, and read it with composure, without
shedding a pitying tear." The other letter con-
tained several threats, which excite regret that the
ill-starred object of his passion did not, by reading
it, become aware of his design. Two short notes,
in pencil, were found about his person, and lying
in the room. One " Caroline, Caroline, shame,
shame upon you ; not one kind line at parting,
cruel, cruel girl, adieu for ever." The other con-
tained these words : — "I cannot live, and feared I
should not have had resolution, I shall do it with
more composure than I could have possibly ex-
pected."
Sharp's letters were scattered about the room,
those of his victim were sealed up under a cover,
addressed to Sir Stewkley ; the pistol with which
he shot Miss S, he threw across the room ; that,
with which he shot himself, lay close by his right
hand. He had two other loaded pistols, and six
bullets in his pocket. — The verdict returned by the
coroner's jury was, that Sharp was a lunatic, and
that Miss S. died by his hand. She was not at all
disfigured by the shot, there being no appearance
of it, but- the small perforation where the bullet
penetrated, on the left side of the head.
The recorder of this deplorable domestic tragedy-
observes, that " a more angelic corpse was never
seen ; as in life, so in death, her countenance exhi-
bited a smile of complacency." Her remains were
interred in the family vault at Shuckburgh, on
Monday, the 3d of April. The amiable and virtuous
life of this young lady, was the only source of con-
solation which her distressed family and friends had
under this extraordinary and most afflictive occur-
rence.
The title of baronet was conferred by Charles II.
on John Shuckburgh, Esq. whose father had suf-
fered much in the civil war of that period. Sir
George W. A. Shuckburgh, who died in 1804, re-
presented the county of Warwick in three parlia-
ments ; and distinguished himself by a love of
science, and depth of research, which made him a
valuable member of the Royal Society.
VOL. iv. — MO. 171.
5o
TABLE
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WESTMORLAND^
424
WESTMORLAND.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.
WESTMORLAND is bounded, on the north,
by Cumberland ; on the north-east, by Dur-
ham ; on the east, by Yorkshire ; on the south by
Lancashire ; and, on the west, by part of Lanca-
shire and Cumberland. Its greatest length from
east to west, is 40 miles; and its greatest breadth,
from its southern boundary, near Burton, to its
northern one, near Penrith, in Cumberland, is 32
miles. According to a calculation, by the late
Bishop of LlandafF, its contents, in square acres,
are 540,100 ; but a later official estimate returns
them at only 462,080. —In consequence of its con-
tiguity to the western ocean, from which the winds
blow during two thirds .of the year, bearing with
them exhalations which fall in rain on the moun-
tains, the climate is exceedingly moist; notwith-
standing which the air is remarkably pure and
healthy.
SOIL.] — The uncultivated lands, which, accord-
ing to Dr. Watson, the late Bishop of Llandaff,
comprise three-fourths of the county, consist of ex-
tensive commons, very capable of improvement ;
and of mountainous districts caljed fells, the soil of
which is a hazel mould, produing little, besides
heath and fern. These latter are of so little value,
that the liberty of keeping ten sheep on them may
be hired for sixpence a year. Other soils, under
cultivation, are of indescribable variety.
AGRICULTURE, &c.] — Till a recent period, it was
the usage of the farmers of Westmorland, to plough
their lands for three or four years ; not with the
expectation that the corn would be more profitable
than grass ; but in order to renovate the herbage,
and to destroy the moss, which, in a few years,
overruns all the meadow grounds. The unvarying
course of tillage, was, 1. Oats; 2. Barley, with
manure ; 3. Oats. But the clover and turnip hus-
bandry is gaining ground ; and, in the parishes of
Heversham, Burton, and Kirby-Lonsdale, and the
* Acrostichum septentrionale. Forked, or Horned Fern ;
on the mountains on Amblesicle.
Actaa spicata. flerb Christopher, or Bane-berries ; in woods.
Moschatelhina. Tuberous Moschate) ; in hedges.
district, called " the bottom of Westmorland," con-
siderable quantities of wheat are annually grown.
An Agricultural Society has been established ; com-
mons have been enclosed ; and immense swamps,
drained, pared, and bufned. The usual impost is
fold-yard dung, and peat-ashes ; on and near Stan-
more, lime is used ; and, on Bolton common, some
rock-marie has been procured. At Thief-hole, be-
tween Ambleside and Lowwood, is a stratum of
dark-grey limestone, which, on account of the dear-
ness of coals, is seldom burned.
CATTLE.] — The cattle resemble those of Lanca-
shire, are excellent feeders, and grow to a great
size. The sheep are horned, dark, or grey-faced,
and thick-pelted, with coarse, strong wool. The
Silverdale breed are horned, white-faced, with close
wool, and, upon the whole, superior to the common
sort. The wool of both kinds is used in the manu-
factures of Kendal and Bradford, and about Kirkby-
Stephen, Orton, and Ravenstonedale, in the knit-
ting of stockings.
WOODS, WASTE LANDS, &c.] — That Westmor-
land was formerly a wooded county is apparent,
from the remains of trees in the soil of the highest
hills, and from the frequent mention of forests, &c.
in old statutes. Some parts are still covered with
coppices of oak, ash, alder, birch, and hazel, which
are usually cut down every sixteenth year, for the
purpose of making hoops and charcoal. The bark
produced by one acre of oaks is sold for fifteen
pounds ; whence few trees are left to stand for tim-
ber. Fir and birch thrive well on the high grounds :
other kinds, though alive after seven years' growth,
are stunted, and never reach perfection. We have
already observed that three-fourths of the whole
county are waste ; a great part of which is capable
of improvement.
PLANTS.] — The plants most worthy of notice in
this county, are enumerated in the note below.*
MINERALS
Alchemilla alpina. Cintjuefoil Ladies Mantle ; on the rocks,
on the side of Ullswater lake, and in Lonsdale.
Alliv.ni arenurium. Broad'leaved Mountain Garlic; in Trout-
beckholm, near Great Strictlarid.
Allium
i
WESTMORLAND.
423
MINERALS AND FOSSILS.]— Two districts, which
may be defined by an irregular line from Powley
Bridge, through Orton, to the river Winster, oppo-
Allium carinatum. Purple-flowered Mountain Garlic ; on
rocks, near Lcnsdale.
. okraaum. Herbaceous Wild Garlic ; in corn-fields,
everywhere.
sdicenoprasum. Chives ; in meadows and pastures.
Althaea vulgaris. Marsh Mallow ; in marshes, near the sea.
Amdromeda polifolis. Wild Rosemary, or Marsh Cistus ; in
turfy bogs.
Aquikgia vulgaris. Columbine, Culverwort, Cocks-foot, or
Sowdwort ; in mountainous woods.
jfsarum Europaum. Asarabacca ; in woody places.
Arenaria laricifolia. Larch-leaved Chickweed ; on the moun-
tains.
verna. Mountain Chickweed ; on the mountains,
about Kendal.
Asperula Ct/nanchica. Squinancy-wort ; on the limestone
hills, about Conzic, near Kendal.
Asplenium Ceteracli. Spleenwort ; on the bridge at Trout-
beck.
Ruta muraria. White Maidenhair, Wall Rue, or
Tentwott ; on walls and rocks.
. tiiride. Green Maidenhair ; on walls and rocks.
Athamanta Meum. Spignel, Men, or Bawdmoney ; in moun-
tainous meadows, frequent.
Atropa Belladonna. Deadly Nightshade, or Dwale ; in
hedges, and on rubbish.
JSartsia alpina. Mountain Eyebright Cow-wheat ; near a
rivulet, running by the way from Ortou to
Crosby.
Bryum crudum. Spear-leaved Bryum ; in woods, about Rydal.
JSyssus saxatilis. Stone Byssus ; on rocks.
Campanula latifolia. Giant Throatwort, or Canterbury bells;
in bushy places arid hedges, at Kendal.
_ rotundifolia y. A variety of -Round-leaved Bell-
Flower ; on the high mountains.
————— Trachelium. Great Throatwort, or Canterbury
Bells; near the foot-path, between Levensand
Sizergh.
Cardamine hirsuta. Hairy Ladies smock ; in meadows, pas-
tures, and moist shady places ; in Kendal.
. impatiens. Impatient Ladies Smock ; in mountain-
ous meadows and pastures, near rivulets, and
in moist shady places ; at Kendal.
Carduus heleniodes. Melancholy Thistle ; in mountainous
pastures, everywhere.
Carex distant. Loose Carex ; on the mountains, and else-
where.
gracilii. Nova Species; Curtis Flora Londinensis
Fate. 4. Slender Spiked Carex ; on the
borders of ConzwicTarn, near Kendal.
— — inflata. Lesser Bladder Carex ; in marshes, every-
where.
.. limosa. Brown Carex ; in turfy bogs.
Chara liispida. Prickly Chara ; in ditches and ponds.
tomentosa. iSrittle Chara; in turfy ditches.
Cineraria palustris. Marsh Fleabane ; on Burton Moss.
Circcea alpina. Mountain Enchanter's Nightshade; at the
bottoms of mountains, about Dalham.
Cistus Helianthemum. Dwarf Cistus, or Little Sunflower;
in mountainous meadows and pastures, especi-
ally of a limestone soil ; at Caldkail-scrogs,
near Kendal.
• — hirsutus. Hoary Dwarf Cistus; on Betham banks,
near Scoot Style, near Kendal, and at Buck-
barrow Bank-scar, between Brig-scar and
Conzwic.
Cochlearia offidnalis y. Groenlandica, Groenland Scurvy-
grass ; in Lonsdale, and at Buckburrow-weU.
VOL. IV. — NO. 171.
site the north end of Lithe-fell, are composed, in
their strata, of very distinct kinds of minerals.
Eastward from this line are horizontal strata of
limestone,
Conferva fiumatilis. Horse-tail Conferva ; in rivers.
Comallaria majalis $. Narrow -leaved Lily-coiivally ; in
woods, and on heaths, by Waterfall bridge,
and elsewhere.
Cotyledon Umbilicus veiicris. Navelwort, Wall Pennywort,
or Kidney wort ; on moist old walls, and stoney
places ; about Troutbeck, and in Merslack, a
shady lane, Winandermeer.
Cynosurus cttrulcus. Small blue-eared Mountain Spike-grass;
in mountainous meadows : at HeLfel Nab,
Kendal.
Cypripedium Calceolus. Ladies Slipper ; in woods, and among
bushes.
Draba incana. Wreathen Podded Whitlow-grass, or Wreathed
Lunar Violet ; in fissures of rocks, and m
mountainous places, everywhere. r
muralis. Wall Whitlow Grass; in fissures of rocks,
and in mountainous pastures and stoney places,
particularly of a limestone soil, everywhere.
Drosera anglica. Great Sundew ; in boggy places, every-
where.
• longifolia. Long-leaved Sundew, or Rosa Solis ; on
Brigstear Moss.
Epilobium alpinum. Mountain Willow-herb ; on the moist
rocks, about Buckbarrow Well.
Equisetum hyemale. Rough Horse-tail, or Shave-grass ; on
the side of the rivulet, between Snap and
Anna Well.
— limosum. Smooth Horse-tail ; in Lonsdale.
Eriophorumvuginatum. Hare's-tail Rush, or Moss Crops ;
in mosses and boggy places, frequent.
Festuca ovina ?> vivipara. Grass upon Grass; on the moun-
tains.
• rubra. Purple Fescue Grass ; on mountainous heaths
and pastures.
Fontinalis permata. Feathered Water Moss ; on trunks of
trees, between Troutbeck and Ambleside.
Fumaria claviculata. Climbing Fumitory ; on the side of a
ditch, near Kendal Castle.
Galanthus ni-calis. Snowdrop ; in orchards.
Galium boreale. Crosswort Madder ; in mountainous meadows,
nearKirby-Lonsdale, above the bridge, Orton,
Winniulermeer, and elsewhere.
• pUtiUttm. Least Ladies' Bedstraw ; on mountains,
near Kendal.
Gestiana campcstris. Dwarf Vernal Gentian ; in mountainous
pastures, about Kendal.
pheumonanthe. Marsh Gentian, or Calathian Violet ;
in moist meadows, near Milthorp, and at
Foulshey.
Geranium Moschatum. Musked Crane's-bill, or Muscovy ;
in dry meadows and pastures, everywhere.
sanquineum. Bloody Crane's-bill ; on the side of the
foot-path, leading from Kendal to B:irrowfield.
• tylvaticum. Mountain Crane's-bill ; in bushy places
and mountainous pastures frequent, found with
a variegated flower, in Old Deer Park, near
Thornthwaile.
Geum rivals, (fiore plena.) Water Avens, with a double
flower at Great Strictland.
Gnaphalium dioicum. Mountain Cudweed, or Cat's-foot ; io
' dry mountainous pastures : near Scoot Style,
near Kendal.
Hedysamm Onobrychis. Cockshead, or Saint -Foin ; in
chalky meadows and pastures : at'Sizeri'ii and
Old Hall.
flespe ris invdora. Unsavoury Dame's Violet ; on the banks
v'k of the rivers, about Dale Head and Gresmere.
5 P Hicracium
4-26
WESTMORLAND.
limestone, freestone, and a soft luminous schistus,
abounding with remains of organized bodies. The
west side of the line consists, for the most part, ol
ffieraciutn auricula. Narrow-leaved Hawkweed ; on Dale
Head.
dubium. Mouse-ear Hawkweed ; on Fairfield
Hill, near Rydal.
— — — — murorum. French, or Golilen Lungwort ; in
woods, and on walls, and banks of fields : at
Scoot Style, near Kendal.
i. murorum y. A variety of the last ; about Buck-
barrow-ttell, in Lonsdale.
— — — murorum J, Another variety ; on the rocks by the
rivulet, between Shap ant! Anna-well.
————— paludosum. Succory-leaved Hawkweed ; at Buck-
barrow-well.
.. sabaudum. Broad-leaved bushy Hawkweed ; in
woods and hedges, at Kendal.
— ^— tabavdum ft. A. variety of the last ; near Ulls-
water Lake.
Hippoerepis comosa. Tufted Horse-shoe Vetch ; on the edge
of the Scar, near Kendal, between Scoot Style
and Honeybee Yate.
Huppuris vuJgaris, Mare's tail, or Female Horse-tail ; in the
lakes on Brigstear Moss, plentifully, and in
Holme mill-dam, Burton.
Hypericum Androsamum. Tutsan, or Park-leaves; in Lady
Holm, Winandermeer.
elodes. Marsh Si. Peter's-wort ; in rotten and
spongy marshes, at Kendal.
ffypnum pennatum. Nova Species /. Dickson Fasciculus
Plantarum Cryptogamicarum Britannia; on
trunks of trees, in woods, between Troutbeck
and Ambleside.
Impatient noli me {cuigere. Quick in the Hand, or Touch-
me-not ; on the banks of Winandermeer, near
Rydal Hall, and elsewhere.
Juncits fdiformis. Least soft Rush ; on turfy mountains, near
Ambleside.
Jungermannia cilaris. Fern Jungermannia ; in woods and
wet heaths, and near rivulets, everywhere.
— — — — — nemorosa. Wood Lichenastrum ; in woods and
and shady places.
Juniperus communis ft. A variety of Common Juniper ; on
the tops of mountains.
Inula Helenium. Elecampane ; in moist meadows and pastures.
Luthnca tquaniaria. Toothwort ; in a field below Scoot Style,
near a foot-path leading to Barrow field, and
in bushy places below Conzicscar, near Kendal.
Lichen aphtotut. Thrush Lichen ; in woody and stony places,
and on rocks.
• crassus. Thick Lichen ; on rocks and mountainous
heaths.
furfuraeeus. Branny Liverwort ; on trunks of trees.
• fuscus. Brown Lichen ; on rocks and great stones.
"•• hcrbaceus. Green Lichen ; on stones and on trunks,
and about the roots of trees.
— — - is laitdicut i. A variety of Erin go- leaved Liverwort;
on the tops of mountains.
. pubescent. Pubescent Lichen ; on rocks and stony
places, everywhere.
Leonurus cardiaca. Motherwort ; on rubbish and in hedges,
about Kendal.
Linum perenne. Perennial Blue Flax ; in meadows and pas-
tures of a chalky soil ; at Crosby Ravensworth,
and between Shap and Threapland.
Lobelia Dortmanna. Water Gladiole ; in Ullswater and
Winandermeer, plentifully.
Lycvpodium alpinum. Mountain Club Moss ; 1 on mountain*
, — Selago. Fir Club Moss ; $ ous heaths.
Lysimachia tenellu. Purple Moneywort ; OH bogs
the schistus and trap genera, classed in nearly per
pendicular layers. Between Shap and Kendal is a
vein of red porphyry ; and on Wastdale Cragg, is
a layer
Marrubium vulgare. White Horehound ; by highway sides
on rubbish.
Melica montana. Mountain Melic-grass ; in mountainous
groves, frequent.
Menyanthes trijoliata. Buckbean, or Marsh Trefoil ; in
marshes and watery places.
Myosotis scorpoides ft. A variety of Mouse-ear Scorpion-grass ;
in dry meadows, at Buckbarrow-scar.
Narcissus Pteudo-Narcissus. Wild English Daffodil; ia
woods and hedges at Great Strickland.
Narthecium Ostifragum. Lancashire Asphodel or Bastard
Asphodel ; in wet grounds.
Oenanihe crocata. Hemlock Dropwort ; in ditches at Kendal.
Ophiogiossum vulgatum. Aclder's-tongue ; in moist meadows
and pastures; at Helsfel Nab near Kendal.
Ophrys cordata. Least Twayblade ; on moist mountainous
heaths, especially of a very turfy soil every-
where.
•• ' - mufcifcra. Fly Orchis ; in Barrowfield-wood and in-.
the marie close near Brigstear-moss.
iridvt avis. Bird's Nest ; on the side of a lane near
Honeybee Yate, near Kendal,
Ornithogalum luteum, Yellow Star of Bethlehem ; in mea-
dows and pastures ; near Kendal.
Ornithopus perpusillus, Bird's-foot ; among the tenters at
Kendal.
Osmunda crispa. Stone Fern ; on rocks ; frequent.
• Luiuiria. Moonwort ; in mountainous meadows and
pastures ; frequent.
• Lunanaft. Cut-leaved Moonwort ; at Great Strick-
land.
regalis. Flowering Fern, or Osmond Royal ; oa
Brigstear-moss and Underbarrow-moss.
Papavcr cctmlrictim. Yellow Welch Poppy ; in mountainous
places ; about Kendal plentifully, aud in Kirby-
Lonsdale.
Parnastiupalustris. Grass of Parnassus ; in moist meadows,
frequent.
Pinguicula vulgarit. Butterwort or Yorkshire Sanicle; in
swampy places.
Poa pralensis ft alpina. Alpine meadow Grass ; on the moun-
tains.
Polemonium caruleum. Greek Valerian ; or Jacob's Ladder ;
on the east side of the river Kent at Kendal
between the Mill-race and Kir-dub.
Polygonum Bistorta. Great Bistort or Snakeweed ; in moist
meadows, frequent.
• viviparum. Small Bistort or Snakeweed; in
mountainous meadows ; at Crosby Ravens-
worth, and elsewhere.
Polypodium Dryopteris. Branched Polypody ; in dry stony
places, frequent.
fragile. Brittle Polypody ; on old stone walls
and rocks, plentifully.
ftnttunum. Rock Polypody ; in stony places near
Wybourn.
fragrant. Sweet Polypody : in moist chinks of
rocks ; near Keswirk.
• phegopteris. Wood Polypody ; in moist and
shady chinks of rocks every where.
— — — — rhitticum. Stone Polypody ; on stony mountains,
everywhere.
Thelypierif. Marsh Fern ; in woody and boggy
marshes and in hedges, everywhere.
Potamogeton setaceum. Setaceous Pondweed ; in the tlitche*
on Brigstear-moss.
Primula furinosa. Bird's Eye ; in mountainous bogs.
Prunus padut. Bird's Cherry, Wild Cluster Cherry-tree,
Hedg.-
WESTMORLAND.
A 27
a layer of flesh-coloured granite, spangled with
veins of gold-mica, field-spar, and quartz. The
whole surrounding district abounds in whin-stone.
A range of round hills rises between these systems,
composed of alluvial stones, laid in cement of
their own substance. Loose fragments of granite
and schistus are scattered over the whole chain-
paigne part of the county ; and, in various places,
are round detached, round pieces of blue ragstone,
called by the masons caliierde. Veins of copper are
found in several places, as at Westall-head, and
Lambrig ; but, yielding little, they are not wrought.
A mine of this ore was, however, wrought, till a
late period, in the parish of Ashby. Before 1704,
at Old Hall,
{ on the
( mountains.
Hedge-berry-tree, or Black Grape Cherry ;
among the mountains, common.
Prwius Ccrasus ft. Least Wild Cherry-tree, or Merry -tree;
in woods and hedges ; about Rossgill.
Ranunculus acris. Upright Meadow Crowfoot ; this plant
varies on the tops of the mountains with one or
two flowers on a stalk, and with a very hairy
large calyx.
« •• flammulafr, A variety of Lesser Spearwort; in the
marie-pits at Burton.
Rhodiola Rosea. Rosewort : on the mountains, frequent.
Ribes nigrum. Black Currants, or Squinancy Berries ; in moist
woods and on banks of rivers.
rubrum. Common Currants ; in woods.
Hub us Chamttmorus. Cloud-berries, Knot-berries, or Dwarf
Mulberries ; in turfy bogs on the mountains.
— — turatilix. Stone Bramble or Raspis ; among stones on
the sides of mountains.
Humex digynus. Round-leaved Mountain Sorrel; on the
mountains, frequent.
• sanguineus. Bloodwort ; in • woods
and elsewhere.
Salit herbacea. Herbaceus Willow ;
pentandria. Bay-leaved Sweet Willow
reticulata. Round-leaved Willow ;
Samolus valerandi. Round-leaved Water Pimpernel ; on
Brigst ear-moss.
Satyrium viride Pfuscum. Brown satyrion ; in Helsfel nab,
near Kendal.
Saxifraga autumnaJis. Yellow autumnal Saxifrage ; in moun-
tain °.
" ceespitosa. Small Mountain Sengreen ; on the
mountains upon Ambleside.
liypnoides. Ladies' Cushion or Trifid Sengreen ;
on the mountainous places.
— — — — stellaris. Hairy Saxifrage or Kidneywort ; on Hard-
knot and Wrenose, by Buckbarrow-well.
Scandix odorata. Sweet Cicely or Sweet Fern ; in hedges
and orchards, frequent.
Schoenus albus. White flowered ^Rush-grass; in marshes,
plentifully.
• compressut. Compressed Bastard Cyperus or fiat
spiked Cyperus-rush ; in boggy marshes.
fcrrugineus. Broad Bastard Cyperus or Dwarf
marsh Rush ; in turfy bogs.
tnnriscu*. Long-rooted Bastard Cyperus ; on the
edge of Conzic Tarn, near Kendal, plenti-
fully.
•Sedum Anglicum. English Stone- crop ; on rocks, Winander-
meer, and on a few rocks in Lonsdale, and at
Rydall.
Serapis latifolia y palustris. A variety of Broad-leaved Bastard
Hellebore ; in marshy places at Kendal.
longifolia. While-flowered Bastard Hellebore: in a
wood near Askham Hall.
large quantities of lead were procured from n rich
pipe-vein at Hartley, which, it is supposed, might
still be wrought with success ; the Dunfell mines
also were productive for several years ; but are now
nearly exhausted. Those at Dufton arc unusually
rich ; and, at Eagle Craggs, fifty years since, the
ore was found in great abundance. 'J here are, be-
sides, some unimportant mines at Greenside, ticar
Patterdale, and about llartsop Hall. The best
coal, procured in Westmorland, lies in Stane-
more Forest, and at Leacet, in Lune Forest, but coal
of a slaty kind is also found at Slape-stones, at
Thrimby, Newby, Sleagill, and Reagill. In the
vale of Mailers-tang, a sort of small-coal is dug,
Sipthorpia curopaa. Bastard Moneywort; in shady marshe*
and near springs and rivulets ; about Lonsdule
and Buckbarro\v-welt.
Solidago cambrica. Welch Golden Rod ; en Ilie mountains.
Sparganium simplex ft natans. The least Bur-weed ; in ponds,
lakes, and gently-flowing rivers; everywliere.
Splachnum vasculosum. Common Splachnum ; mountainous
and moist heaths every w here.
Statice armeria. Common Thrift, or Sea Gilly-flower ; in
mountainous meadows and on rocks, and in
meadows near the sea.
Stellaria nemorum. Broad-leaved Stickwort or Great Moun-
tain Chickweed ; in moist woods and hedge*
and in banks of rivers everywhere.
Stipa pennata. Feather-grass; on the limestone rocks hanging
over Lonsdale.
Sitymbrium Nasturtiam $. A variety of Water-Cress; in
Helsington Lath dales, near Kendal.
Taxus baccata. Eugh-Tree ; on the mountains.
Thlaspi alpestrx. Perfoliate Bastard Cress; on the moist
limestone pastures.
TragopogancKruleum. Purple Goat's-beard ; in meadows and
pastures ; at Old Hall.
Tremella utriculata. Bladder Tremella; in mountainous ri-
vulets.
Trichomanet tunbrigensc. Tunbridgc Trichomanes ; on Buz-
zardrough Crag, near Wrenose, among the
moss on the mountains, frequent.
Trientalis curopaa. Chickweecl Winter-green ; in woods and
on turfy heaths.
Trifoliumjilifarme. Small Trefoil ; in Kendal Fell.
Trollius Europaus. Globe-flower or Locker-gawlons ; in moist
lands.
yaccinium Oiyceccus. Cranberry ; on the boggy moss, about
Kendal.
— — yilis Idtxa. Red Whorts or Whortle-berries ; in
marshy heaths, and mountainous places.
• uliginosum. Great Bilberry-bush ; in Whinfield
forest.
faleriana hcusta $. A variety of Lamb's Lettuce, or Cora
Sallet ; in Helsington Lath dales near Kendal.
f'eronica scutellata. Narrow-leaved Water Speedwell ; on
Brigst ear-moss.
yicia tyhatica. Tufted Wood Vetch ; about Kirby Lonsdale
bridge, and by the side of Potton beck, near
Kendal.
f'iola grandijlora. Yellow Violet or Pansies ; ii> the moun-
tainous pastures.
yitcum album. Misseltoe; on apple trees: in Brigstear and
Lyth.
Utricularia minor. Lesser-hooded Milfoil ; in turfy bogs.
—vulgarh. Common-hooded Milfoil ; on Bug-tear
moss.
Uhapruniformif. Plumb La»er; in Alpine lake*.
which
428
WESTMORLAND.
which the inhabitants burn with limestone. Various
kinds of slate are found in the mountainous districts
of Westmorland, but the most usual colour is blue,
varying from a pale azure to the darkest indigo.
One sort is purple, and another nearly black. These
strata of slate gent-rally lie beneath beds of limestone.
By some experiments, it appears that the white moss
slate is reducible to a black sort of glass, so hard,
that it emits sparks on collision with steel. — Near
Ambit-side, and between that place and Penrith, is
a marble of a dusky green colour, veined with white.
Fossils of various kinds are found in several parts
of the county ; as, at Threapland, the entrochi and
trocliita of different sorts, some compresed, others
truncated. Corailoiil bodies are found in great
quantities near the Lowther, and at Helsfell ; the
latter finely variegated, and little inferior to Sienna
ruarble.
SPRINGS and LAKES.] —The lakes of this part of
our island nre described with a considerable degree
of minuteness under the head of Cumberland, which
includes those most considerable for size ; the lakes
of Westmorland, however, though smaller, and
fewer in number than those of the sister county, are
not less rich in the wild beauties and picturesque
charms of " nature uncontrolled." Those most
worthy of notjce are Grassmere, Rydal-water, Elter-
water, Hawes- water, Kent-mere, Skeggle- water, and
Broad -water ; -beside which there are numerous tarns,
or smaller lakes, as Red-tarn, Whinfell-tarn, Angle-
tarn, Grisedale-tarn, and Sunbiggin-tarn. Grass-
mere expands its transparent bosom in a small valley,
spotted with gentlemen's seats, and old, grey habi-
tations, rising amid sycamore or .other trees. Ry-
dal-water, about a mile in length, is filled by the !
same stream which supplies Grassmere ; and is j
sprinkled with small wooded islands of irregular
form and some beauty. The banks of Elter-water
are cloathed with wood, and present an interesting
variety of scenery. Hawes-water, situated in Mar-
dale, 238 yards above the level of the sea, is enclosed
on one side by bold and craggy mountains ; and on
the other, by a steep ridge, in the centre of which,
near the narrow neck of the lake, rises a dark pre-
cipitous mass of rocks. All these lakes, as well as
the towns, produce pike, trout, perch, eels, char,
and water-fowl, in abundance. Some of the smaller
lakes, situated near the head, or beneath the over-
hanging steeps of mountains, are wholly deprived of
the sun's rays during the hibernal months. Such is
Red-tarn, under the eastern limb of the loftiest part
of Helvellyn.
RIVERS.] — Westmorland derives little advantage'
from navigable streams, which are mostly asstuaries
of the sea, becoming rapid and stony in the ascent
to their sources. The largest rivers in the county,
are the Eden, the Lowther, the Eamont, the Lou,
the Kent, and the Winster ; but the want of com-
modious channels for water-carriage, is compen-
sated.by the great number of rivulets which irrigate
the soil, and adorn the meadows with a perpetual
verdure. The Eden rises near Mallerstang forest,
on the borders of Yorkshire, and, after washing the
towns of Kirkby Stephen and Appleby, enters Cum-
berland at Brougham. This river is stored with
delicious trout ; and was formerly famous for its
abundance of salmon ; but, by the illegal and ava-
ricious practice of erecting wears, that valuable fish
is almost banished. The Lowther rises in the moors
near Wetsleddale, and, after passing Snap Abbev,
receives the Swindale-bach, and the Thoruthwaite.
It then rolls in a narrow and rocky channel through
Lowther Woods, and meets the Eamont at Carleton
Hall. The Eamoijt carries the overflowing of
the Ullswater to the Eden. The Lon or Lune,
rising near Ravenstone dale, and entering Lanca-
shire at Kirby Lonsdale, abounds in delicious sal-
mon, which are attracted by its clear stream and
sandy flats. The Kent, which rises near High-
street, flows through Kentmere-tarn, by Kcndal,
under Arnside Fells, to the Bay of Moricambis.
The Kyth, which rises from two sources in the hills
near Kendal, has a fall near Betham, sixteen feet
high. The Winster rises on Clay barrow-heath,
bounds Westmorland and Lancashire for a short
distance, and falls into the sea near Arnside Fells.
CANALS.] — The canal from Wigan to Kendal will
be an essential advantage to Westmorland, being
a channel to introduce the coal of .Lancashire into
the heart of this county.
MOUNTAINS.] — Crossfell, the highest of the moun-
tains which stretch along'the eastern frontier of the
county, is about 3390 feet above the level of the sea,
and composed, at the summit, of finegrained sand-
stone, covered with mosses. Helvellyn, 3324 feet
high, has, near the summit, a fine spring. This
stupendous object was, in 1805, the scene of an in-
cident of the most affecting kind. " On the 18th
of April, Mr. Charles Gough, of Manchester, was
at Patterdale on his road to Wyburn, a place he
frequently visited in summer, for the amusement
of fishing. After receiving some refreshment at the
inn, he requested the assistance of a guide to con-
duct him over the mountains, but it being a general
review day of the volunteers in that neighbourhood,
he could not procure one. He, therefore, proceeded
on his journey, without any other companion than a
favourite spaniel bitch, and was not beard of, till
Saturday the 20th of June, when a shepherd's boy,
passing near the fatal spot, was attracted by the
howling of the bitch, which had pupped at a little
distance, and was still watching over her master.
The boy immediately informed some of the inhabi-
tants of Patterdale of the circumstance ; who has-
tened to the place, and found the entire skeleton, ex-
cept the skull, which was about seven yards from it,
lying at the bottom of a precipice of about two hun-
dred yards ! His fishing-rod was at the top ; and a
small bundle about half way down. From the fre-
quency of the carcases of animals being devoured
by birds of prey, (which assemble there in great
numbers) there cau be little doubt that the flesh oi
tlu
WESTMORLAND.
429
the body, which was nearly consumed, had fallen a
prey to these voracious birds. About au hour after
Mr. dough set out from Patterdale, a great quantity
of hail fell, accompanied -with a heavy fog, which
continued over the mountain the whole day ; so that
it is most probable he had missed his way, when he
met with the fatal accident. His remains were col-
lected and decently interred in the Friends' burying
ground at Terril near Penrith."
ROADS.] — A branch of the Roman road, called
Watling Street, IS feet wide, and 3 feet thick, com-
posed of layers of stone, passed from Stanemoreto
Brougham Castle, and is still visible in many places.
Another road, called the Maiden-Way, branched
from it at Kirkby-Thore to Caervorran, in North-
umberland. The present roads of Westmorland
are excellent.
TENURES, FARMS, &c.] — The general military
tenure of the lands of this county was by homage,
fealty, and cornage ; the last of these drawing after
it wardship,, marriage, and relief ; and the service
of this tenure was Knight's service. Cornageseems
to have been peculiar to the border service against
the Scots ; but, if ever it were a personal service, it
ceased early, by being converted into a pecuniary
payment to the crown. Cornage, horngeld, and
neretegeld are supposed to have been synonymous ;
and that, at first, they were annual payments of
horned cattle, for provisions for the garrisons kept
in the bordering castles. The tenants who held by
cornage were bound to be always ready to serve the
king and the lord of the manor upon horseback, or
on foot, at their own charge; and when the king's
army marched into Scotland, their post was on the
vanguard as they advanced, and on the rear-guard
on their return. The lord's rent here was called
white renl, probably from its being paid in silver.
Scutage, or service of the shield, was another com-
pensation in money, instead of personal service
against the Scots. The drengage tenure, which
prevailed about Brougham and Clifton, in this
county, and in a few parts of Northumberland, is
said to have been extremely servile. " They seem
to have been drudges to perform the most laborious
and servile offices." Sir Hugh de Morville changed
drengage into free service ; and tradition states, that
one luilf of the village of Brougham was given to
make the other free of drengage. — The farms of this
county are in general small. The largest are to be
found in the Bottom of Westmorland, and especially
in the parish of Brougham. A considerable portion
belongs to the yeomanry, who, to distinguish them
from those who rent the ground they occupy, are
called statesmen. The estates of this class of men
•vary, from ten to two or three hundred pounds a
year ; and much of their value is derived from their
extensive common rights. The combined attacks of
luxury, however, and thirst for commercial pursuits,
have wrested many of th-.'se little tenements of in-
dependence from their ancient possessors ; many of
IT. — no. 172.
them have been consolidated into one ; and many a
statesman is now a day-labourer in the fields, which
a long list of his ancestors had tilled as their own
paternal inheritance.
ETYMOLOGY.] — The name of this county is gene-
rally derived from " the land of the Western moors,"
or " commons ;" moors, in the north of £ngland,
generally signifying " common of pasture," in oplpo-
sition to fells, or mountains. Archbishop Usher
quotes several authorities forderiving it from Marius,
a British king, who in the first or second century is
said to have conquered one Roderic, a Scythian
adventurer, on the wilds of Stanemore. Camden
ridicules this conjecture, and adopts the popular
opinion. In ancient records, it is always expresssly
written Westmorland, in English ; and Westmaria,
sometimes Westmeria, in Latin ; from which Gongh
observes, that " Dr. Burn, in correcting Camden's
etymology, docs not seem to have been aware, that
it might imply the land or country of the Western -
mere, or boundary, between England and Scotland."
" 3/er," or "mere," however, among the Saxons
and Danes, as Well as in modern times, has not
only been the general name of extensive lakes, but
even of inconsiderable pools of stagnant water. The
first-mentioned derivation' seems therefore the more
probiibly correct. This county was comprised
within the limits of the kingdom of Brigantia ;
and, according to Richard of Cirencester, was a
part of the province of the Voluntii and Sistuntii,
nations who seem to have been joined in close con-
federacy, and to have passed over into Ireland after
the invasion of.their country by the Romans. They
lived" on the west side of the Penine Alps ; which
run in one continued chain from the commencement
of the confines of the Iceni and Carnabii, at the
river Trivonia. Their cities were Rerigonum,Coc-
(•iiini, and Lugubalium, thetwo last of which became
prxsidia of the Romans. According to Richard's
map, the district of the Sistuntii extended along the
sea coast from the mouth of the river Mersey to
Solway Firth ; and the Voluntii inhabited the paral-
lel tract between them and the Penine Alps. After
their final subjugation, the territory of the Brigantes
became a province of the Romans, under the title
Maxima Caesariensis ; and, through the ages of the
Heptarchy, was included in the kingdom of North-
umberland, which in the time of Edward the Con-
fessor was divided into six shires, one of which was
called " Appelbishire, to which appertained the land
of Westmerland." This division does not appear
to have included the barony of Kendal (mentioned
hereafter) which, according to various records and
returns to parliament, was, long after the Conquest,
reckoned a part of the hundred of Lonsdale, in
Lancashire.
CCSTOMS,MANNERS,&C.] — The old manor-houses
were builtfor purposes of defence against the maraud-
ing incursions of the border-Scots, being furnished
with areas, strongly walled, in which they secured
5 Q their
430
WESTMORLAND.
their cattle on the notice of an invasion. The
common dwelling-houses, however, anil these were
the most numerous, were composed of two stories,
the lower containing four, the upper, two rooms.
Of the lower rooms one was the down-house, where
baking, brewing, washing, and similar operations,
were performed, and in which the winter firing,
called elding, was deposited. A passage, the whole
breadth of the dwelling, separated this room from
the house, or common apartment, which was fur-
nished with a hearth, slightly raised ; a large oaken
closet, the full height of the room ; a long oaken
table with benches, at which the repasts were made,
off wooden trenchers ; and a seat, on one side of
the fire, called the long settle, curiously carved and
formed into a chest, in which were deposited the
oaten bread, dried provision of meat, family apparel,
and all the housewife's stock, with which she " made
auld things leuk a'maist as weil as new." — The
moveable seats were narrow and upright chairs of
heavy wainscot, or more commonly, three-legged
stools. Another room on the ground-floor, was the
bower or chamber, in which the master and mistress
slept ; whilst the rest of the family, children, and
servants, male and female, slept pek-mele in the loft,
or unceiled upper room. — The cloaths, both of men
and women, were fabricated from the wool of their
own flocks ; their linen, from hemp of their own
growth ; whilst clogs, or wooden -soled shoes, were
the usual chaussure. — The diet of these people con-
sisted, during the greatest part of the year, of boiled
•viands, and of the produce of the dairy, with but
little of that of the garden ; in winter, of the dried
meats already mentioned ; except at the festive season
of Christmas, when as many goose, mutton, and
minced-pies were baked as served the family for a
month or six weeks. Salmon was plentiful ; but,
for that reason, little valued. The bigg, or barley,
was mostly made into malt ; wheaten bread was
used only at funerals, and on particular occasions ;
and the only mess peculiar to the county seems to
have been made of ale, boiled, with wheaten bread
and figs, sweetened with sugar, and called Jig-sue.
• — The season for amusement was the termination
of the old, and -the commencement of the new year :
from Christmas-Eve to Twelfth-Day, whenalllabour
ceased, except the necessary attention to the cattle.
Then each family had its night for entertaining the
rest, and every night was merry. Plentiful viands
loaded the table, and the October-brewed ale was
dispensed liberally. Cards, dancing, hunt-the-slip-
per, and marriage lotteries, were the recreations of
old and young. At a lying-in, the gossips were
regaled with frumenty aud sweet butter, seasoned
•with spices and spirits, the expence of which, among
the indigent, was defrayed by & gathering. The
marriages and funerals were conducted, as described
under the head of Cumberland ; the latter being
always solemnized by feasting; and weddings, besides
the foot or horse-face, dances, &c. always ending
with the ceremony of throwing the stocking, which
was accessible only to a chosen fkarty : the newly-
married sat upright in bed with the curtains open at
the foot ; the young men attempted to hit the bride-
groom ; and the girls, the bride ; by throwing her
stockings over their shoulder : success was an
assurance of a speedy marriage. — A predilection for
ancient literature, and the learned professions, once
reigned in these secluded vales ; and it was common
to hear the yeoman and the shepherd recite passages
from Virgil's Georgics, the idyls of Theocritus, and
the song of Homer : but when a short and easy
way was opened to opulent prospects, this learned
simplicity disappeared ; and writing and arithmetic
are now more in request than Latin and Greek.
CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS, &c.] —
This county is divided into the two baronies of
Kendal and Westmorland ; and these baronies are
subdivided into 4 wards ; comprising, in the aggre-
gate, 32 parishes, and one part of a parish. In
ancient times, the Kendal barony, containing the
wards of Kendul and Kirkby-Lonsdale, appears to
have been deemed a part of the county of Lancaster.
More recently, the Westmorland barony, comprising
the .E. and W. wards, has been occasionally termed
the Barony of 'Appleby ; and it is frequently called
the Bottom of Westmorland. This county, which
is in the province of York, and the diocese of Car-
lisle, is included in the northern circuit. It has two
petty sessions, and 18 acting county magistrates.
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.] — Westmor-
land returns only four members to parliament : two
for the county ; and two for the borough of Ap-
pleby.
MARKET TOWNS.] — The following are the market
towns of Westmorland : —
Population.
Towns. Market Days. 1801 1811
Ambleside Wednesday 558 624
Appleby oSaturday 1619 2160
Brought , Wednesday 694 758
Burton Thursday 548 574
Kenda.,1 Saturday , 6892 7505
Kirkby-Lonsdale.. ..Thursday 1283 1368
Kirkby-Stephen Monday 1141 1235
Orton Friday 1230 1333
FAIRS.] — Ambhside — Wednesday after Whit-
Sunday, for horned cattle ; October 29, for horned
cattle and sheep.
Appleby — Whitsun-Eve, for horned cattle ; Whit-
Monday, for linen cloth and merchandize; June 10,
for cattle and sheep ; August 10, for horses, sheep,
and linen cloth.
Broiig/i. — Thursday before Whit-Sunday, for horn-
ed cattle and sheep.
Broitgh-Hitl — September 30, for horses, horned
cattle, &c.
Kendal — April 25 and 26, for horned cattle, sheep,
and pedlary ; Novembers, for horned cattle, horses,
and sheep.
Kirkby-
WESTMORLAND.
431
Kirkby-Lonsdale— Holy-Thursday, horned cattle ;
St. Thomas, December 21, woollen cloth.
Kirkby- Stephen — Easter-Monday, Tuesday after
Whit-Sunday, St. Luke, Old Style, October 29, for
black cattle, sheep, and flax.
Milthorpe — May 12, for horned cattle, horses, and
sheep.
Orton — May 2, for black cattle ; Friday before
Whit-Sunday, for sheep and black cattle.
Shop — May 4, for horned cattle.
POPULATION.] —In the year 1700, the population
of ihis county was 28,600 ; in 1750, 36,300 ; in
1801,41,617 ; and, in 1811, 45,922.— The marriages
are, as 1 to 135 ; the births, as 1 to 31 ; and the
deaths, as 1 to 54-
Summary of the Population of the County of WESTMORLAND, ag published by Authority of Parliament, in 1811.
WARDS, &c.
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
Inhabited.
-
? .<§ .-
Buildings.
Uninhabited.
u •—• flj
•— t,
o tu 3
.'&£ 3
•c^ J*i
V ^?
4J O* •* W
|'|.a.p
Males.
Females.
Total
of
Persons.
E £ oo
b **
}i?1
0 = — .=
— e« st"w
-r ^ ^ 4;
Eist Ward
2464
2719
774
1283
1496
2631
2821
867
1378
1709
12
20
7
4
2
57
111
27
76
12
1617
1548
469
949
30
614
998
296
265
697
400
275
102
164
982
6022
6682
2054
3231
3311
1538
6409
6992
2116
3373
4194
12431
13674
4170
6604
7505
1538
Went Ward
Town of Kirkby-Kenda)....
Total*
8736
9406
45
283
4613
2870
1923
22838 23084
45922
HUNDREDS, CHIEF TOWNS, &c.
EASTWARD.] — The division, called East Ward,
bounded, northward, by Cumberland; to the east,
by Durham and Yorkshire ; to the south, by York-
shire ; and, to the west, by the three other great
divisions of the county ; contains the parishes of
Ashby, Brough, Crosby-Garret, Dufton, Great-
Musgrave, Kirkby-Stephen, Kirkby-Thore,Marton,
Newhiggin, Ormshead, Orton, Ravenstonedale,
St. Lawrence Appleby, St. Michael's Appleby, and
Worcoj).- besides several chapelries, townships, and
villages, included for the most part in the parishes
here enumerated.
APPLEBY.] — The supposition that this ancient
place (270 miles N. N. W. from London) was a
station of the Romans, rests upon the name Hurrah,
given to some foundations of old buildings, dis-
covered at the distance of a mile southward ; and
upon an ancient inscription respecting the station
jjballaba, which, probably from analogy of sound
only, some antiquaries place here. Edward the
Confessor made it the capital of one of the shires,
into which he divided Northumberland. In 1173,
William, King of Scotland, took and destroyed the
town ; which was rebuilt by Henry II., and by him
endowed with some valuable immunities, as freedom
from toll, stallage, pontage, and lastage throughout
England, except in the city of London. In 1388,
it was again burned by the Scots, and from this
second conflagration, it never wholly recovered. At
present it consists of one broad street, irregularly
built on the side of a steep eminence. This borough
was governed by a mayor and provosts at a very
early period, as appears from an act of parliament,
13 Ldward I. The history of the corporation, now
existent, as by prescription, without any known
written charter, is unusually obscure. Its form re-
mains as instituted by James II. in a charter which
he afterwards revoked ; being composed of a mayor,
aldermen, and capital burgesses ; the mayor having
authority to arrest for any sum without limitation.
Appleby has sent two representatives to parliament,
since the 26 Edward I. — A gaol and court-houses
were erected in 1771 ; and a new market-house in
1811, under the direction of Smirke. The Shambles,
and the Town-Hall, standing in the middle of the
street, are very incommodious. — Appleby Castle,
supposed, by the Countess of Pembroke, to have
been partly founded by the Romans ; but certainly
of note at the Conquest, is a square structure, re-
founded about 1686. The hall contains a copy of
the great family picture of the Cliffords, represent-
ing George, Earl of Cumberland, his countess,
their two sons, and their daughter, the celebrated
Anne " Dorset, Pembroke, and Montgomery," at
the most interesting and the most contrasted periods
of her life. One portrait represents her at the
blooming age of 15, in white, and bedecked with
flowers ; the other, at withered 75, in black, resting
on the Bible, and Charrou's Book of Wisdom. la
the drawing-room, and on the stair-case, are like-
nesses of the same personage, taken in childhood,
youth, maturity, and old age. Other rooms con-
tain portraits of the Honeywood family, removed
hither from ilowgill Castle, when that estate was
purchased by a late proprietor of this. In 1641,
* the
432
WESTMORLAND.
the Countess of Pembroke fortified this castle for
the king, and gave the government to Sir Philip
Musgrave, who held out till the battle of Marston-
Moor. In October, 1648, it was taken by Lieute-
nant General AsJiton, who found there 5 knights,
25 colonels, 9 lieutenant-colonels, 6 majors, 46
captains, 17 lieutenants, 10 comets, 3 ensigns,
1200 horse, 5 pieces of cannon, 1000 stand of arms,
and a great quantity of baggage. — The church of
St. Lawrence, almost refuunded by the Countess of
Pembroke, in 1655, contains her monument, and
that of her mother, the Countess of Cumberland;
the latter with this epitaph :
" Who faith, love, mercy, noble constancy,
To God, to virtue, to distress, to right,
Ohserv'd, express'd, shew'cl, held religiously,
Hath here this monument : Thou seest in sight
The cover of her earthly part ; but, passenger,
Know heaven and fame contains the best of her."
The tomb of the Lady Anne is yet more noble,
having the pedigree and armorial bearings of her
ancestors, beginning with the first Robert de Veteri-
pont.*
The precise period when the Grammar- School of
Appleby was founded is unknown ; but it was en-
dowed by letters patent of Queen Elizabeth in 1574,
with an annual revenue, not exceeding 40/. ; besides
which, it has received considerable benefactions from
literary characters, educated there, and enjoys seve-
ral of the exhibitions founded by the Earl of Thanet,
and Lady Elizabeth Hastings. Among the eminent
persons, who received the seeds of learning in this
establishment, must be noticed William Bedell,
Bishop of Kilmore and Ardagh ; Thomas Barlow,
Bishop of Lincoln ; Thomas Smith, and John
Waugh, Bishops of Carlisle ; Langhorne, and his
brother William, the translators of Plutarch ; John
Robinson, Esq. undersecretary during Lord North's
administration ; Richard Yates, M. A. 58 years
master of this school ; Sir Joseph Yates, one of
the judges of the Court of King's Bench ; and
Josiah Relph, a native of this county, and author of
a volume of pastoral poetry of great merit. Several
inscriptions collected by Reginald Bainbrigg, one
of the masters of Appleby School, and inserted in
the walls of a small stone building, have been stolen
or dispersed ; one of these, as preserved by his
* The inscription runs thus: —
" Here lies expecting the second coming of our Lord
and Saviour Jesus Christ, the dead body of the Lady
Anne Clifford, daughter and sole heir to George Clif-
ford, third Earl of Cumberland, by his blessed wife
Margaret Russell, Countess of Cumberland : which
Lady Anne was born in Skipton Castle, in Craven,
the thirtieth of January (being Friday) in the year
1590, as the year begins on new-year's day; and by
a long continued descent from her father and his noble
ancestors, she was Baroness Clifford, Westmerland and
Vesey ; high-sheriffess of the county of Westmerland,
and lady of the honor of Skipton in Craven aforesaid.
friend Camden, seems to establish the antiquity of
Appleby ; it is this :
ABALLABA O.UAM cc
FLUIT ITUNIA STATIC FVIT
RO : TEMP : M. AVR. AVREL.
HANC VASTAVIT F. F.
GUI!.. R. SCOT. 1178
me PESTIS SJEVIT 1598
OPP. DESF.UT. MKRCAT'
AD GILSHAVGHL1N F.
DEVM TIME.
Anne, Countess of Pembroke, the great bene-
factress of Appleby, founded an hospital for twelve
widows and a mother, or president ; and endowed
it with lands at Brougham, and near Appleby. —
Colby and Berwise, in this parish, were onee the
property of families who bore their names ; and
Hoff belonged to Sir Hugh de Morville, from whom
it passed through many hands to Dr. Gibbon, Dean
of Carlisle.— St. Michael's, the other parish in this
borougJi, granted to Robert de Veteripont, by the
appellation of " Old Appleby, where the bondmen
dwell," is situated on the east bank of the Eden.
Lady Anne Clifford caused the church to be rebuilt
at her own expence, in 1658-9. — At the north end of
Bondgate, as St. Michael's is sometimes called,
is Battleburgh, where was a priory for Carmelites,
or White Friars, founded in 1281 ; and near it an
hospital or lazar-house, which was given by John
de Veteripont to the abbey of Shap. Craekenthorpe
Hall, a manorial residence in this parish, was, from
the earliest period of authenticated record, the man-
sion of the Machels, a Saxon family, who, at length,
alienated it to the late Earl of Lonsdale, Near this
seat, which is at present neglected, is a Roman
camp, 300 yards long, and 150 broad, with three
entrances, and a watch-tower or fort, at the distance
of a bow-shot. — Helton-Bacon, Murton, and Lang-
ton, have each, at remote periods, enjoyed a share
of prosperity, of which no traces now exist. The
first was held by wardship and cornage, under the
Veteriponts, by Thomas de Hellerton^ and Richard
Bacon ; Murton and Langton are also enumerated
among the Veteripont estates, 2 Edward I. Appleby
lias produced some eminent characters, among whom
must be noticed Thomas de Veteripont, Bishop of
Carlisle, in 1255 ; Thomas de Appleby, Bishop of
She married for her first husband, Richard SackvilJe,
Earl of Dorset; and for her second husband, Philip
Herbert, Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery, leaving
behind her only two daughters that lived, which she
had by her first husband ; the eldest, Margaret, Coun-
tess of Thant t, and the younger Isabella, Countess of
Northampton : which Lady Anne Clifford, Countess
Dowager of Pembroke, Dorset, arid Montgomery,
deceased at her castle of Brougham the 22d day of
March, in the year of our lord 1675, christianly, wil-
lingly, and quietly, having before her death seen a
plentiful issue, by her two daughters, of thirteen grand
children. And her body lies buried in this vault."
Carlisle,
WESTMORLAND.
433
Carlisle, in 1363 ; Roger de Appleby, Bishop of
Ossory, in 1404 ; and Dr. Christopher Potter, Pro-
vost of Queen's College, Oxford, Prebendary- of
Windsor, and- Dean of Worcester.*
Asby, once called Askeby, consists of four manors:
Asby-Winanderwath, Asby-Kotesford, Little Asby,
and Garthorne. The church is ancient, much dis-
figured by repairs, and even diminished in size, as
appears by an arch, now filled up, in the north wall.
At Sayle-Bottom, are several tumuli, some circular,
others rectangular ; at Garthorne Hall, a tumulus
\ras found to contain human bones, and a large
sword ; and another at Asby-Mask, containing three
entire skulls. Pate-Hole, in this parish, is a remark-
able cavern in a limestone rock, consisting of two
galleries, one, 430 yards long, towards the north-
east ; the other 230 yards long, making a large
sweep from the extremity of the first to its middle ;
together, they resemble the letter P. At the extre-
mity of the first gallery is a lofty dome, and a pool
20 yards long, 6 broad, and 3 deep ; and, in the
second, are two perpendicular chasms of unknown
extent, whence proceed, in rainy seasons, torrents
of water, which fill the cavern, and discharge them-
selves from its entrance. The noise of these ope-
rations resembles at first gentle music, and. increases
to the pitch of the loudest. In one part is a petri-
fying spring, which always stands at the temperature
of 44° 5'.
Brough, or Brough-under-Stanemore, formerly
•written Burgh, a Teutonic term for any habitation,
was the Vertere of the Romans, many of whose
coins have been found there. The town (18 miles
S. E. by E. from Appleby) is divided into Church-
Brough, and Market-Brough, by the intervention of
the Hellebeck, which also flows through the latter.
The church, formerly a chapel to that of Kirkby-
Stephen, is a large and ancient building, of which
the windows were once richly decorated with stained
glass. In 1506, a chapel was founded at Market-
Brough, and endowed for the support of two priests,
who instructed the children of the place in grammar,
and the then useful accomplishment of sinking.
Stanemore Chapel, built as a school-house, in 1594,
was consecrated in 1608. Brough Castle was pro-
bably built out of the ruins of Vertera, before the
Conquest, as it was much decayed in 1241, during
the minority of one of its proprietors, Robert de
Veteripont. In 1521, it was accidentally burned ;
and lay " ruinous without timber, or any covering,"
till 1659, when Lady Anne Clifford caused it to be
repaired, " and came to lye in it herself." The re-
mains consist of strong towers, defended by a foss,
which, on one side, is double; and by a ditch and
rampart, which seem to be remains of the old Roman
station. — Hellebeck Hall, once the seat of the De
Hellebecks, afterwards of the Blenkinsops, and at
present of John Metcalfe, Esq. stands in a wood,
* He was vice-chancellor of Oxford when the civil wars of
Charles 1. broke out; and sent all his plate to the king, saying
TOL. n.— NO. 172.
on a site so lofty as to overlook the whole barony of
Westmorland, and a great part of Cumberland.
Maiden Castle, an old square fort of stone, de-
fended by outworks, must have been, from its com-
manding situation, a place of great strength : Le-
land describes it as " a great round kepe, a sixty
foot in compace, of rude stones, sum sinavvl, sum
big, and be set in formam pyramidis, and in the
top of them all is set one stone in conum, being a
yard and a half in length, so that the hole (whole)
may be countid an eighteen foot high, and is set on
a hill, on the very edge of Stanemore, and this is
a limes between Richmondshire and Westmorland."
— Rerecross, on Stanemore, was set up in 1067 as
the boundary between England and Scotland ; and
the arms of William and Malcolm, engraven upon it t
whence its name Rereoross, or, the Cross of Kings.
Its remains stand in an oblong entrenchment, inac-
cessible by a morass and a precipice at the ends ;
and strongly defended at each of its two entrances
with mounds of earth.
At Crosby-Garret, or Gerard, the church is situ-
ated on the summit of a steep hill ; whence, it is
sometimes called Crosby on the Hill. The manor
belonged at an early period to the Lords of Soulby,
and afterwards to the Musgraves ; but of the man-
sion-house even the site is unknown.
Dufton was held by the barons of Greystoke, till
Thomas, Earl of Arundel, granted it by lease, for
99 years, to Sir Christopher Clapham, who, taking
advantage of the omission of the clause, relative to
waste, cut down Dufton Wood. It was purchased
by the late Earl of Thanet.
Musgrave has, from a period hidden in the pro-
foundost obscurity, been the property of a family of
the same name, at present seated at Eden Hall,
Cumberland.' It is first noticed in the reign of John,
when a dispute arose between Robert Musgrave
and the monks of Byland, concerning the boundaries
of the manors of Musgrave and Blaterne. Sir Tho-
mas de Musgrave was, in the reign of Edward III.
governor of Berwick, and warden of the west
marshes ; and fortified Hartley Castle, which he had
purchased of Ralpli de Nevil, Baron of Raby.
Kirkby-Stephen, a parish, 12 miles long and 8
broad, and 10 miles S. E. from Appleby, includes, in
the ten townships, of which it consists, many hills and
mountains ; among which Wildboar-fell towers above
the rest ; offering a prospect, on one side, to the
sea ; and, on the other, to the Yorkshire hills, and
Crossfell. The church has a lofty steeple, and con-
tains many tombs. On an altar-tomb between the
choir and the chancel, lies the effigies of a knight,
in complete armour ; said, by tradition, to be that of
Sir Andrew de Harcla, but conjectured, by some
writers, with a great shew of probability, to be that
of Sir Thomas Musgrave, who purchased Harcla's
forfeited etates, in 1286. In a choir, belonging to
be would drink as Diogenes did, in the hollow of liis hand,
before his majesty should want. - ,
5 R Hartley
431
WESTMORLAND.
Hartley Castle, is a plain altar-tomb, with an in-
scription in memory of Sir Richard Musgrave, who
died in 1464 ; and a stone, inlaid in the floor, sculp-
tured with a cross, a shield charged with five annu-
lets, and a sword ; the emblematic epitaph of some
knight of the cross. An alabaster tomb, in the
Wharton aisle, supports the effigies in armour, of
Thomas, Lord Wharton, and those of his two wives ;
with an epitaph which informs us that ho overcame
the Scots ; that his first wife Eleanor, daughter of
Bryan Stapelton, bore him six children, of whom
two lived to have children ; and that his second wife
was Anne, daughter of the Earl of Shrewsbury. He
died in 1568. This nobleman founded the Gram-
mar-School, which is at present in very flourishing
circumstances. The town, consisting of one irre-
gular street, is finely situated on a fertile plain,
environed with woods and green eminences. Of the
ten townships only two are freehold ; the rest being
held from the lord by a small acknowledgment, and
a fine at the death of each possessor, whose eldest
son, or eldest daughter, succeeds. — Harcla, or
Hartley Castle, once a magnificent pile, but now
so entirely demolished, that scarcely a vestige re-
mains, was given to Robert de Veteripont by King
John. Robert de Clifford, who possessed it, in right
of his wife Isabella de Veteripont, lost it by engaging
in the rebellion of the Earl of Lancaster in 1322 ;
when Sir Andrew de Harcla, who defeated the rebel
party, was rewarded with this and other manors in
the county. This Sir Andrew was sheriff of Cum-
berland during 12 years of the reign of Edward I. ;
as well as a lord of the marshes, and governor of
Carlisle Castle ; and, for his success in suppressing
the rebellion of Lancaster, was created Earl of Car-
lisle ; but hating the De Sponsors, and despising
the weak character of Edward II., he entered into
a correspondence with Robert' Bruce ; which being
discovered, he was suddenly arrested, and suffered
the death of a traitor. — Winton Hall was for several
centuries the residence of the family of Scaife. The
present proprietor is John Jackson, Esq. Winton
gave birth to Dr. John Langhofne, the poet, and
his brother William. Dr. Burn, the author of the
" Justice of Peace," &c. and Dr. Richard Monk-
house, an eminent divine, were also natives of this
village. — Kabergh, long the residence of the Ful-
thorpes, was distinguished, even at the Restoration,
for the warmth of its republican spirit, which
prompted a meeting to oppose that measure ; with-
out, however, any other result than that of the exe-
cution of some of its fomenters. — Nateby was held
by the family of Hastings from the 13th century till
the time of Henry VIII ; afterwards by the Whartons;
* He was born in 1699 ; and, on the death of his father, in
1716, paid court to the exiled Stuarts, by whom he was created
Duke of Northumberland. But despising barren honours, he
made peace with the prevailing party, and was made Duke
Wharton. Again he apostatised ; and at last accepted a com-
mission in the Spanish army against Gibraltar. He died at the
age of 32, in a Cistercian convent, at an obscure village in
and at present, it belongs to the Lowthers. — Soulby
Chapel was built by Sir Philip Musgrave in 1663. —
Smardale belonged, in the reign of Elizabeth, to Sir
John Dalston, whose descendant, Sir George Dais-
ton, Bart, repaired the Hall, and died there in 1765.
— Waitby was purchased of James Lowther,Esq. by
Richard Monkhouse. The school was endowed in
1630.— Between Kirkby- Stephen and Wharton Hall,
is Stankthred Bridge, a single arch over the Eden,
on each side of which the high rocky bank is fringed
in the most beautiful manner with hanging shrubs ;
while the river forms a series of cascades ; of which
one is twenty feet high. The rocks, which are of
limestone, are perforated in a thousand different
ways ; and, in one place, nearly meet across the
bed of the stream. — Wharton Hall has, since the
death of Duke Wharton, been gradually falling to
ruin ; the Chapel is applied to the unhallowed uses
of a dairy ; and the other parts of the edifice are
inhabited by a farmer. Records of unquestioned
authenticity place the Whartous here as early as the
time of Edward I. Sir Thomas Wharton was made
a baron by Henry VIII. Philip, the fourth Lord
Wharton, commanded a regiment of horse in the
royal cause, during the civil war of Charles I. ;
and Philip, fifth Lord Wharton, was a zealous pro-
moter of the. Revolution, and minister to Queen
Anne, who created him Viscount Winchendon, Earl,
and afterwards Marquis Wharton. His son, Philip,
was perhaps one of the most extraordinary charac-
ters of modern times — the Alcibiades of England.
Extravagant and gay, witty and courageous, he
was the leader of a party which he often deserted,
more from caprice than interest ; cultivating all the
arts which court admiration, and endowed with
talents Co command it, he was the dazzling meteor
of the senate, and the wonder of the club-room.* —
Pendragon Castle, the foundation of which is fabu-
lously ascribed to Uter Pendragon, stands in a
narrow dell, washed by the river Eden ; which,
says an eminent distich, the founder vainly endea-
voured to divert from its course :
Let Uter Pendragon do what he can,
Eden will run where Eden ran.
In 1341, it was burned by the Scots. The
Countess of Pembroke " repayred it in 1660, so as
she came to lye in it herself for a little while in
October 1661 ;" but her successor, the Earl of
Thanet, demolished it in 1685, and even the ruins
are now dispersed.
Kirkby-Thore was probably so called to distin-
guish it from other church towns — thore mean-
ing, in Saxon, tower, and the whole appellation
Spain, and was buried in the humble manner prescribed by the
rules of the order of St. Bernard. Though he was twice mar-
ried, first to a daughter of Major-General Holmes, and after-
wardstoa maid of honour of the Spanish Queen, he died without
issue j and his estates in Westmorland were purchased by
Robert Lowther, Esq. of Maudsmeaburn.
signifying
WESTMORLAND.
435
signifying a town, distinguished by a tower, or
castle. The church is an ancient Gothic build-
ing ; yet that it is not the original foundation, appears
from a Saxon cross, sculptured on a stone which is
inserted in the wall, and doubtless belonged to a
former edifice. Above the altar, are four shields,
charged with armorial bearings ; and in the chancel,
some tombs of the Dalstons, of Acornbank. The
manor was held by the Whelps, who in the fourth
generation took the name of De Kirkbythore ; and
by the Whartons, successively. The remains of a
Roman station, in the middle of the village, are sup-
posed by Camden, to be Galgacum ; by Ward and
Horsley, Brovonacee; and by Reynolds, Brocavum;
at present, antiquaries call it Whelp Castle, and
the inhabitants, High Burwens. The site is naturally
well defended by its position on an eminence, and
by a morass, between which and the brook Trout-
beck which passes the castle, there is a conduit,
traversing the area from east to west. Some of the
neighbouring stone fences were evidently made with
materials from the ruins ; among which is a cement,
used in baths, composed of lime, gravel, and brick.
At different times, some interesting relics of the
Romans have been discovered near this spot : an
altar, inscribed FORTUNE SERVATR1CI ;
arched, and paved vaults ; several urns, earthern
vessels, the head of a spear, and sandals, studded
with nails ; an altar inscribed DEO BELATUCAD
RO LIB. VOTUM FECIT IOLUS ; a patera,
with the letters,— TIAN IMP— and, in 1739, the
upper half of an altar inscribed IOVI SERAPI.
It is observable that the worship of this deity was
not introduced at Rome, before A.D. 146. by Anto-
ninus Pius. Burwens Hill, on the Maiden-way,
half a mile from Kirkby-Thore, was a summer camp
of the Romans.
Marton, consisting of the three manors or vil-
lages, ftlarton, Brampton, and Knock, received its
name from its situation near a raeer or lake. The
church, centrally situated, has its windows stained
with the arms of Greystoke, Dacres, Lancaster,
Wharton, and Clifford.
Newbiggen was, from the time of Edward II. to
the death of the late James Crackenthorpe, Esq.
the property of the Crackenthorpes. The Hall, built j
by one of that family, in 1553, is a low and plain
building, situated in a woody vale. Newbiggen
Church is small, and remarkable for nothing but a
little stained glass, with the arms of the De Cliffords.
The manor of Ormshead has had various posses-
sors : the first on record were the De Ormsheveds,
the next the Vescys ; afterwards the Derwentwaters,
the Radcliffes, the Bartons, and Sir Chistopher
Pickering, from whom it passed to the Hyltons ;
the Wyberghs, the Stephensons, and the late Earl
of Thanet. The Hall, embattled and turreted, ap-
Bjars to have been built as a place of- defence. .
reek's Hall, long the seat of the Bartons, now
belongs to Jacob Wakefield, Esq.
Orton, anciently called Scer-Overton, from its
•( situation under a scar, or brow of naked rocks, is a
half cultivated parish, computed to contain 25,000
acres. Orton Hall was the seat of the late John
Burn, Esq. an active, but harsh magistrate, and
the son of the Author of " Burn's Justice." The
church, a Gothic building, with a low embattled
tower, retains an air of venerable antiquity, un-
! changed by repairs, to which the parsimonious habits
of the inhabitants are happily averse. In this
favoured parish are several excellent schools : the
town-schoolmaster receives a stipend of about 60/.
— Tebay School was endowed, in 1070, by Robert
Adarason, a native of Rownthwaite ; and Green-
holme School was endowed, in 1733, by George
Gibson, with the sum of 400/. bank-stock. On the
highest part of Orton- Scar, are the remains of a
beacon, and a sort of inclosed area and fort, called
Castle Folds, supposed to have been a place of
security for cattle and their keepers, during the
disorders of border warfare. Near Raisgill Hall,
is an enormous tumulus, in the centre of which, a
human skeleton has been discovered ; and at Tebay
is a circular mount, called Castle How, intended,
like a similar hill near Greenholme, to command
the fords of the Birkbeck and the Lune. Near
Rownthwaite, a small spring, called Gondsdike,
continually casts up small particles of silver ; and
the neighbouring mosses abound with sunken timber
of extraordinary dimensions. Near Tebay is a
stone, called Brandreth, marked with two crosses,
deeply cut on each side ; and intended, it is said,
as one point of a line of demarcation between •
England and Scotland. At Lauggill, was born, in
1607, Dr. Thomas Barlow, Bishop of Lincoln ; and,
at Newbigg, in 1638, George Whitehead, a learned
I and zealous Quaker. Birbeck was the birth-place
of Nicholas Close, overseer of the works at the
building of King's College, Cambridge, and Bishop
i of Lichfield, where he died in 1453.
Warcop had formerly a castle which covered an
1 area of more than an acre ; and in a field, called
' Kirksteads, some hewn stones, perhaps the ruins of
i a chapel, have been discovered. The manor be-
longed, in the reign of King John, to a family who
bore the same name. Warcop Tower, the manorial
residence, has been converted into a farm-house ;
the Hall, however, has been much improved, and
belongs at present to the Rev. W. M. Stephenson,
of Aycliffe, Durham.
Ravenstonedale, probably so called from the
abundance of grey stones, is a vale, about seven
miles long and five broad, divided into four angles,
but composing only one manor and constablewick.
The manor, being a possession of the priory of
Walton in Yorkshire, had, in Catholic times, a
privilege of sanctuary ; so that none might enter
to apprehend fugitive offenders ; who were tried
before the steward, by a jury of tenants ; and, if
even a murderer tolled the holy bell, he was free.
This privilege was abolished by James I. ; but the
lord of the- manor has still the jurisdiction of probate
of
436
WESTMORLAND.
of wills, and granting letters of administration. At
the death of the Archbishop of York, to whom, at
the Dissolution, the manor had been granted for
life, it was purchased by Thomas, Lord Wharton ;
and went, with the other estates of Duke Wharton,
to Robert Lowther, Esq. of Maudsmeaburn. One
custom of this manor deserves to be mentioned :• —
if a tenant, being 16 years of age, die without lawful
issue, and without a will, his estate escheats to the
lord ; and such is the attachment of the dalesmen
to ancient customs, that, though the Earl of Lons-
dale has offered to enfranchise them, they still tena-
ciously adhere to this. The church was rebuilt, in
an elegant style, in 1744 ; a meeting-house for Cal-
\inists was endowed by Philip, Lord Wharton ; and
a grammar-school was founded and endowed in
1688. At Rasate, are two tumuli, in which have
been discovered many human skeletons, laid cir-
cularly, with the skull towards the hillock ; and,
at Rothay Bridge is a circle of large stones, vul-
garly denominated a druidical temple ; but more
probably, a sepulchre. The Fothergills are (he
most considerable family in Ravenstonedale : one
of them was standard bearer to Sir Thomas Whar-
ton, at the fight of Solwaymoss, in 1542 ; another
founded Ravenstonedale School, and Dr. Thomas
Fothergill, who died in 1796, was provost of Queen's
College, Oxford, and author of several popular
sermons.
KENDAL WARD.] — This ward, of a narrow oblong
figure, comprehends the whole western side of the
county ; and is bounded on the east by Lonsdale,
and West Ward. It is composed of the five parishes
called Betham, Grasmere, Heversham, Kendal, and
Winandermere, which are subdivided into many
townships, chapelries, &c.
Betham, so called from the river Betham, on
which it is situated, is a neat and well-built village.
The church contains tombs of the Wilsons of Dai-
lam Tower ; and one of the ancient family of De
Betham, who possessed the manor from the reign
of John to that of Richard III. — Betham Hall is a
castellated mansion, with walls of great thickness,
perforated with loop-holes : and in the area, which
is of great length, and comparatively small breadth,
are the vestiges of barracks, nearly 100 feet long,
and of the same height with the walls. The Hall
is spacious, but its windows are diminutive, and
strongly secured with bars of iron. — Helslack Mosses
are full of large sunken trees, and abound with a
species of winged ants, which, in the autumn, take
flight. — Helslack Tower is in ruins ; but Arnside is
is yet nearly entire. These towers, like others on
the opposite side of the bay, appear to have been
erected for its defence. — In Limlal Pow, is Castle
Head ; in the mosses, Methop, Ulva, and Foulshaw,
almost inaccessible ; and in the centre of the bay,
Peel Castle. — Haverbrack, a pretty hamlet, at the
foot of a limestone rock, is environed by fertile
meadows. The hall and park, with Dallain Tower,
are the property of Daniel Wilson, Esq. The
demesne abounds with deer, and forest trees ; and
is watered by the Betha, which makes a cascade of
some depth and great beauty. A small hill in this
park, marks the site of an ancient castle of circular
form. — Witherslack was the birth-place of John
Barwick, D.D. and his brother Peter, a physician,
who were botli educated at St. John's, Cambridge ;
and distinguished themselves in the cause of Charles I .
John was imprisoned ; but, afterwards obtained the
deanery of Durham, and devoted his life and fortune
to works of benovolence. He rebuilt and endowed
the church of his native village ; instituted schools ;
portioned the daughters of poor men, and finished
a useful life in 1064. Peter was physician in ordi-
nary to Charles II. ; and advocated Harvey's doc-
trine of the circulation of the blood. He wrote the
life of his brother, in elegant Latin, with an appendix
of letters from Charles I. and II., in their troubles ;
and died in 1705, aged 86.
Grasmere, derived from the word grise (q. d. wild
boars) gives name to a parish, which was once like
Winandermere, a chapelry to Kendal ; but is now a
rectory, the advowson of which belongs to the
Flemings. — Rydal became the property of the Flem-
ings, by marriage with one of the co-heiresses of
the Lancasters of Howgill. The Old Hall is de-
cayed ; and, with its demesne, exhibits nothing but
ruinous walls, stagnant fish-ponds, and other traces
of ancient splendour. — Rydal Hall, an old fashioned
building, near the feet of Rydal Head, is surrounded
by a park, well stocked with oaks ; and made pic-
turesque by the cascades of the little river Gill.—
Sir Michael Le Fleming, a relation of Baldwin,
Earl of Flanders, was sent by that prince to assist
the conqueror his brother-in-law ; and was gratified
for his service with the manors of Aldington and
Gleston in Lancashire, ami 'with several others in
Cumberland. This nobleman's descendants have
been seated there in uninterrupted succession till
the present period, with undiminished honour and
possessions. — Dun-mel-wrays, a heap of stones in
the pass from this county to Cumberland, is sup-
posed by some to have been erected in memory of a
battle between King Edmund and Dunmail, King
of Cumberland, in 946 ; when the Saxon monarcl
put out the eyes of the two sons of Dunmail, anc1
gave his kingdom to Malcolm, King of Scotland.
Heversham Church, which was burned to th<
ground in 1601, contains some tombs of the Wilson
of Dallani Tower ; one, of the mother of Ephrain
Chambers ; and one, of the Rev. Thomas Watson
a learned schoolmaster of this place, who died i
1753. The School was founded in 1613, by Edwar
Wilson, and endowed with a revenue, which, beside
a liberal salary to the master, furnishes two exhibi
tions of 50/. a year each. — At Milthorpe, a trade
carried on with Liverpool, Port-Glasgow, &c. i i
hoops, grain, and the manufactures of Kenda .
Milthorpe is the only town in Westmorland, visitc I
by the tide, which flows up the Betha, from tl >
aestuary of the Kent. — Levins was, from 118 ,
WESTMORLAND.
437
to the reign of Henry VII. the property of the
Redmans; to which family belonged Richard Red-
man, D.D. Bishop of St. Asaph, in 1468 ; of Exeter,
in 1495 ; and of Ely, where he died, in 1505. The
Bellinghams succeeded ; and sold the estate to
Col. James Graham, whose daughter married the
Earl of Berkshire. The present proprietor is the
Hon. Fulk Grevile Howard. Levins Hall is in the
style of architecture, prevalent in the reign of Eli-
zabeth ; while the gardens, designed by the gardener
of James II., have the formal character of that
period. The park, separated from the house by the
Kendal road, is picturesque in the extreme : its most
prominent features being clumps of ancient timber,
bold eminences, the crystal stream of the Kent,
herds of fallow deer, and the ruins of some ancient
buildings, said to have been pagan temples. Near
the Kent are several petrifying springs, of which
one is called the. Dropping-well. — Preston Richard
was for 200 years posterior to the reign of Henry II.
the property of a succession of persons, called
Richard de Preston, whose mansion, called the Old
Hall, was purchased by the Johnsons in 1603. —
Crosthwaite, a chapelry to fleversham, is remark-
able for three pits of unknown depth, which, from
the appearance of salmon smelts, when they abound
in the Kent, evidently communicate with that river.
They also overflow alter a copious rain on Cartmel-
fell. — Lythe is famous for its orchards, and for its
extensive moss, full of sunken timber of all sorts.
Kirkby in Kendal, the most extensive parish in
Westmorland, comprising twenty-six townships,
and fifteen chapelries, had license for a market in
the reign of Richard I. ; and since that period has
been gradually rising to its present importance.
On the promulgation of the edict which forbade the
exportation of wool, some of the Flemish weavers,
who came to this county to exercise their art, settled
at Kendal, and laid the foundation of that trade,
which has since contributed so much to its pros-
perity. Fuller, Leland, Camden, and some ancient
records, notice the progress of the woollen trade,
and the various stages which it had attained in their
times. The articles manufactured there, of late
years, are Kendal cottons, coarse woollen cloths,
and linseys ; whilst the leather trade is considerable,
and the supply of fruit, plentiful. There is, besides,
a marble manufactory, the materials for which are
procured from Kendal -Fell, and Kirkby- Lonsdale.
The corporation, instituted in its present form by
Charles II., consists of a mayor, a recorder, twelve
aldermen, and twenty-four capital burgesses : the
mayor being clerk of the market ; coroner of the
borough, with the senior alderman ; and, with the
recorder, and two senior aldermen, justice of the
peace, with power to hold sessions, and decide in
ull but capital cases. Kendal has seven incorpo-
rated companies : viz. mercers, shearmen, cord-
wainers, tanners, skinners, tailors, and barbers.
The borough courts are. held in the Town-Hall ; as
are the quarter sessions for the county, at Michael-
VOL. iv. — no. 172.
mas, Christinas, and Easter. — Kendal consists of
two main streets, well paved ; and several long
narrow lanes, which branch from them at right
angles. In the former the houses arc built of hewn
limestone, covered with blue slate, which, with the
embellishment of a great number of Lombardy
poplars, gives the place an unusual air of neatness.
The houses in the lanes are mostly plastered, and
very old. — Abbot Hall, a mansion near the church,
was built in the. last century by George Wilson, Esq.
and is now the property of Sir Alan Chambre, one
of the barons of the exchequer, whose family have
resided in the town since the reign of Henry III. —
Dockwray Hall was formerly the seat of a family
of that name, a member of which, Sir Thomas
Dockwray, was granted prior of the knights of St.
John of Jerusalem, in the sixteenth century. — The
Church, which stands in Kirkland had, before the
Dissolution, at least four chantries ; the revenues of
which were, in part, bestowed on the grammar-
school, by Queen Elizabeth. This edifice, 180 feet
long, and nearly 100 broad, has five aisles, divided
by four rows of pillars ; a square tower, with eight
bells ; and several oratories, of the Parrs, Strick-
londs, Bellingharas, and aldermen, all which are
used as cemeteries, and enclose tombs : the Parr's,
a stone with the arms of the family, in memory of
Sir William Parr ; and the tomb of Sir Augustine
Nichols : the Strickland's, a remarkable figure of
Walter Strickland, with a fulsome epitaph, dated
1656 ; and, on a brass plate, the figure of Alan
Bellinghara, in armour, dated 1577 : and, finally,
the Aldermens' aisle contains the tombs, effigies,
and epitaphs, of Sir Roger Bellingham, his wife,
and their grand-daughter. — Several chapels in the
town, as St. Anne's and All-hallows ; with one, in
Copper Lane, and another on Chapel Hill, are sub-
ject to this church ; and a place in Kirkland, has
the name of the Anchorite's house. The Spittal,
olim St. Leonard's Hospital, belongs to the Low-
thers. St. George's Chapel was built in 1754, by a
legacy of Dr. Stratford. Kendal also contains a
Catholic Chapel, a Presbyterian conventicle, two
Methodists', and one Quakers' meeting. Among
the charitable institutions of Kendal are a Free
Grammar-School, which was endowed in 1585 ; an
Hospital and Charity-School, founded in 1670 ; a
Blue Coat-School for ninety children ; a School of
Industry, founded in 1799 ; and a Dispensary, com-
menced in 1782. The Work-house, large, airy, and
well regulated, is in the immediate neighbourhood
of the Common-jail, which is of recent erection.
There are three bridges over the Kent. Near
Castlehow Hill, is a circular mount of gravel and
earth, thirty feet high, flat at the top, defended ami
intersected by.a ditch, and surmounted by an obelisk,
which was erected in memory of the Revolution of
1688. — Kendal Castle, which is situated on the east
side of the Kent, in the middle of a valley, was the
seat of the Brus or Bruce, Roos, and Parr families
successively. It is described as ruinous in 1572,
3 s when.
438
WESTMORLAND.
•when the park and demesne lands had been thrown
together. What remains is a circular wall, guarded
by three towers and a keep ; but traces of the fosse,
cellars, and chief entrance are distinctly visible.
The principal material employed in its construction
appears to be the bine primeval rock of the neigh-
bouring hills ; whilst a sort of dark red freestone
was employed about the doors, windows, and
quoins. — The biography of Kendal includes the
names of several distinguished characters : Richard
de Kendal was a grammarian, and the best school-
master of his age — that of Henry VI. ; Barnaby
Potter, born in 1578, was Provost of Queen's Col-
lege, Oxford, Chaplain to James I. and Bishop of
Carlisle ; Christopher Potter, his nephew, besides
succeeding his uncle, in the college and at court,
was Dean of Worcester, Canon of Windsor, and
Dean of Durham ; George Wharton, an almanack-
maker, poetaster, and staunch partisan of Charles I.
was, at the Restoration, made paymaster of the
ordnance, and died in 1681 ; Thomas Shaw was
principal of Edmund Hall, and wrote his " Travels
in Barbary and the Levant ;" Ephraim Chambers was
the author of several useful works, and of a Cyclo-
paedia, of which a third edition was sold before his
death, in 1740; John Wilson was originally a stock-
ing-knitter ; hut became so skilful a botanist, that
he published a Synopsis of British Plants, and de-
livered lectures with great success : he died about
1750. Kendal gives the title of baron to the Earl
of Lonsdale. — Heslington was the property of the
Thweng, Byndlose, and Bellingham families suc-
cessively ; and, by the last, was sold to Colonel
Graham. Sizergh Hall is the seat of the Strick-
lands, a family of note, since the 12th or 13th cen-
tury : in Henry VI. 's time, they could lead nearly
three hundred armed retainers into the field ; and
among the distinguished persons who bore the name
of Strickland were Roger, a page of the Prince of
Conde, when he left France to be elected King of
Poland ; and Thomas, Bishop of Namur, Embas-
sador of the Emperor Charles VI. to the English
court. The present proprietor of the Hall is Thomas
Strickland, Esq. This mansion, situated on a ter-
race, in the midst of a finely wooded demesne
offers, with its grey walls, turrets, and embattle-
ments, an aspect of the most romantic and venerable
description ; it also contains several fine portraits,
and some curious tapestry and carvings. — Burnes-
head was, in the 18th century, the property of
Gilbert de Brund^heved ; afterwards of the Bel-
linghams, who sold it to Thomas Clifford, in the
time of Henry V11I. ; and, finally, of the Brath-
waites, who sold it in 1750, since which time it has
been dismembered : the manor being purchased by I
Sir James Lowther ; and the Hall, by Christopher i
Wilson, Esq. — Crook Hall was the seat of the \
Philipsons ; of which family was Robert Philipson,
* Bernard Gilpin was born in 1517, educated at Queen's
College, Oxford, and became a preacher of so much fame, as
nicknamed Robin tho Devil, for his exploits in the
disorderly reign of Charles I. To these persons
also belonged Winster, which gives name to the
| river on which it stands. — At Lambrigg, Park-
house is now entirely reduced to its strong and
extensive foundations ; the park is covered with
heath, and its strong, high wall has • nearly dis-
appeared.— Grayrigg was, for twelve generations,
the property of the Duckets, who, in 1690, sold
their possessions to Sir John Lowther. The Hall,
situated in a woody and mountainous country,
was strongly embattled. — Kentmere, so called be-
cause seated on a mere filled by the Kent, belongs to
the Tenwicks of Burrow Hall, Lancashire. Twelve
generations of the Gilpins are known to have
flourished at Kentmere Hall, around which they
held a considerable demesne.* The Hall, an ancient
tower-like edifice, is seated beneath the steep brow
of a rugged mountain. — Longsleddale is ti valley,
watered by the Sprit, interspersed with trees and
cottages, and bounded by hills clothed to the top
with brushwood, and white with the foam of impe-
tuous waterfalls, among which Gillforth Spout falls
above 100 yards in one unbroken sheet. — Near Nat-
land is Water-Crook, a Roman station, 140 yards
square, defended by the Kent, and supposed by
Horsley, after much fluctuation of opinion, to bo
Coitgangium; which Camden denies. Urns, bricks,
a bath, a floor or pavement, some reservoirs, and
several artificial cavities like ovens have been dis-
covered in the area ; and, near the river, even some
appearances of a town. Horsley notices several
coins, urns, altars, statues, and intaglios, found
near the river ; and an inscription, partly mutilated ;
which, according to his reading, implies that the
monument was erected by the care and order of two
freedmen of Publius Bassus, and by a soldier of the
sixth legion ; who denounce a penalty against any
who shall presume to deposit another dead body in
this sepulchre. At a mile and a half from this station
was an exploratory camp 120 feet by 60 ; well de-
fended by double or treble ditches, or by preci-
pices, and now called Castle-steads. Another,
called Coney-beds, on the summit of a hill which
overlooks the vale of Kendal, is bell-shaped, with
a perfect vallum and foss, and overlooks, not only
the other camp, but several hills in Lancashire,
Cumberland, Westmorland, and Yorkshire. — Old
Hutton Free-School has a library of about 400
volumes ; and both that village and New Hutton
have chapels. — At Selside and Whitwell, are seats
and demesnes of the Thornburgh family, who were
originally from Thornburgh in Yorkshire, and settled
in Westmorland in 1283. — Skelsmergh, or Skels-
meresergh, was granted in the thirteenth century,
by the third William de Lancaster, to the Ley-
burnes, who being persecuted for their religious
opinions by Queen Elizabeth, sold their estate to the
to be styled the " Apostle of the North." After refusing the
Bishopric of Carlisle, he died in 1583.
Bellinghams
WESTMORLAND.
J39
Bellinghams and Braithwaites. Patton belonged
to (he De Patterns; and, afterwards, to the Thorn-
burghs. — Staveley has a chapel with a handsome
steeple; and a school-house, on which is this in-
scription : — " To make more useful the gift of 20/.
a year by George Jepson, this school was begun
and finished in 1755. Rim dpollo." Peter Collin-
son, a descendant of a family at Hagill Hall, was a
great proficient in Natural History ; the friend of
Hans Sloane, Linnaeus, and Franklin ; and author
of a " Life of Dr. Stukeley :" — At Strickland Roger
is Godmond Hall, so called from a family who re-
sided there. It consists of a modern erection, and
an ancient tower, the walls of which are two yards
thick ; the windows small, and defended with bars
of iron ; and the lowest floor arched over ; whilst
the second floor is laid with massy planks of oak,
so grooved into each other as to defy assault from
above. At Underbarrow, Canswick Hall was the
seat of the Leybournes, from the thirteenth cen'tury
till 1715, when, engaging in the unhappy rebellion
of the Scots, they fortified their estates, which were
sold to Thomas Crowle, and now belong to the
Lowthers. — On Whinlell, is an ancient beacon ; and,
near the confluence of the Borrow with the Lune, is
a fortified camp, 135 yards long, and 104 broad,
once defended by a thick wall, foss, and vallum ;
and now called Castlehows.
Winandermere Church, which stands in the village
of Bulness, is a large, and rather neat than magm-*
ficent edifice; remarkable chiefly for its chancel
window, which was brought from Furness Abbey.
This consists of seven compartments, representing
the Crucifixion ; St. George and the Dragon ; St.
Catherine with her insignia, the sword and wheel;
the arms of England and France, quarterly, finely
painted ; some arms of the Lancaster, Urswick,
Fleming, Harrington, Kirkby-Preston, Middle-ton,
and Millum families ; and lastly, the figures of a
company of monks with their abbots, as large as life,
of extraordinary beauty of execution, but no w much
mutilated. The church contains some monuments
of the Philipsons of Calgarth, and of other eminent
families in the neighbourhood. — Applethwaite is a
long straggling hamlet, in which the houses are
mostly distant from each other, for the convenience
rather than the comfort of their respective occupants.
Of this place Sir John Wilson, Justice of the Court
of Common Pleas, was a native. — Bulness, which is
delightfully situated and neatly built, is the grand
port of the Lake of Winandermere, where the char-
coal and fish are imported. It has a grammar-
school ; and the harbour is generally crowded with
vessels for purposes either of trade or pleasure.
The neighbourhood also is embellished by the charm-
ing seats of Mr. Taylor, Mr. Pringle, and Mr. Bol-
ton. — Burrnns Ring is the name of a plot of ground
at (he head of Winandermere, which is proved to have
been a Roman station, by the form of the works and
the materials used in their construction; and the
numerous relics, as urns, coins, weapons, and altnrs,
which have at different times been found there. No
remains of buildings exist, but broken bricks, nior-
tar, &c. ; and their site is marked only by the ele-
vation of the soil. Many of the remains are pre-
served in Hutton's Museum, at Keswick. By Cam-
den's description, it would appear that, in his time,
the remains of walls were visible; but, at present,
not only the walls but the altars and inscribed
tablets, have disappeared, and have probably been
pulverized ; as the kind of freestone of which they
were made came from a distance, and was not
easily procured in that district. When Holme
House, on Curwen's island, was rebuilt, the remains
of a Roman villa, consisting of pieces of lead and
iron, old brick, several drains, some armour, and a
beautiful pavement, were discovered, and unfeel-
ingly destroyed. Camdeu suggests the possibility
of Burrans Ring being the same as the Amboglana
of the Notitia ; being guided by the resemblance of
that name to Amb.leside ; Ward and Horsley say that
it is Die/is ; and a late writer congratulates himself
upon having discovered it to be Galacum. — Cal-
garth, or Calfgarth, became the seat of the Philip-
sons, in 1539 ; and continued so till the last century,
when the direct line ended in four co- heiresses, who
sold it. The late learned and venerable Dr. Watson,
Bishop of Llandaff, who was the last proprietor,
added much to the natural beauties of the place, by
a skilful disposition of plantations, and improved
methods of agriculture. Old Calgarth Hall, situated
near the margin of Winandermere, is a picturesque
ruin, of which the prevailing features are walls of
the style of the 10th century, shaded with ivy,
curious carvings, and armorial bearings of the Phi-
lipsons.— Scandale is the name of a valley, watered
by the little brook Stockgill, and rich in materials
for the landscape-painter. T—Troutbeck is also a
dale, or valley, containing a chapel and school ; and
watered by a burn, or rivulet cf its own name. —
Rayrigg Hall, on the margin of Winandermere, is
the seat of the Rev. Fletcher Fleming', and is said
to resemble the far-famed Ferney, Voltaire's abode
at Geneva. — Ambleside, anciently Amelsate, is a
small town near the lake, much resorted to for the
plendid and romantic beauties of its situation, and
Cor the goodness of its accommodations. It has a
chapel, recently rebuilt ; a school, inscribed " Jo/ifin-
nes Kekick, nuper de Ambleside, generosns hancHderam
scholam fundavit. A°. D*. cetatis sua 24;" and an
ancient mansion, once the seat of the Brathwaitcs ;
one of whom, in the reign of Elizabeth, presented
valuable collection of Roman coins to the Univer-
sity of Oxford.
LONSDALE WARD.] — This ward is a small trian-
gular district, traversed longitudinally by the Lon,
and bounded southward by Lancashire. It contains
only two parishes : Burton and Kirkby-Lonsdale,
which are subdivided, like the other parishes of this
county, into several chapelries, townships, vil-
lages, &c.
Burton in Kendal, 10£ miles S. by E from Kemlal,
lies
440
WESTMORLAND.
lies near the borders of Lancashire ; and has to the
west an extensive moss, or bog, which abounds
with remains of trees, such as oak, fir, &c. ; on a
bottom of sand, clay, and marie. In the church-
yard, is the tomb of William Cockin, the author
of an Arithmetic, and of several poems. In a field
near this town were discovered, in 1776, large foun-
dations and ruins, with some domestic utensils.
Farlton-Knot, on the Kendal road, is a high moun-
tain of bare limestone, in form resembling the rock
of Gibraltar. — At Preston Patrick, which had its
suffix from Patrick de Culwen, a former proprietor,
the Chapel, finely seated on a hill, commands an
extensive prospect on all sides, and is itself an
object of no small beauty. The Hall, once the seat
of the Prestons, is converted into a farm-house ;
but part of the ancient edifice may be discovered in
two large arched rooms.
Kirkby-Lonsdale, (31 miles S. W. from Appleby)
which implies the Kirk-town in the dale of Lon, is
the name of a parish which extends eleven miles
along both sides of th« Lon ; is, at its southern
extremity, six miles broad, and contains one parish
church, with five chapels of ease. The town, seated
on the Lon, and built of white freestone, roofed with
blue slate, is neat, and well paved and lighted.
Part of the church is very ancient ; the door and
arches, round ; some of them, clumsy ; and the
east window is Gothic, with light detached pillars.
The manor, which belongs to the Earl of Lonsdale,
gives to that nobleman his principal title. The bridge
over the Lon is remarkable for its three lofty arches,
which are ribbed anil of singular beauty ; it is, how-
ever, inconveniently narrow, and, from the lowness
of the balustrades, even dangerous. *
At Caslerton, of which a lease was granted by
Queen Catharine to Edward Wilson, Esq. in the
reign of Charles II., an elegant mansion was built
about twenty-five years since, by W. W. Carus
•Wilson, Esq. when a stratum of coal was discovered,
which is wrought at present for the purpose of burn-
ing limestone. — The old castellated mansion of Mid-
dleton Hall, now partly in ruins, and inhabited by a
farmer, is, with the demesne of Middleton, the pro-
perty of Anthony Lenaere Askew, Esq. ; whose
family, descended from Thurston de Bosco, were
settled at Aikskeugh, in the reign of John. The
father of Colonel Askew was an eminent physician,
and a learned man : in 1749, he was made a mem-
ber of the academy of Belles Lettres at Paris ; and
after his death in 1774, his library was sold for
* After the forced abdication of James II. a. report was
spread through the north, that he had landed in Yorkshire, with
a strong body of French. The Lord Lieutenant of Westmorland
assembling the posse ctimitutus, at Kendal, marched thence to
Kirkby-Lonsdale, a circumstance recorded in the following
-stanza :
ID eighty-eight \vas Kirkby feight
When ne'er a man was slain ;
They ate their meat and drank their drink,
And to came borne again.
5000Z. and his manuscripts for a large sum. From
one of these manuscripts was compiled "TheAp-
jendix to Scapula," published in 1789.
WEST WARD.] — West Ward is bounded north-
ward by Cumberland, and extends southward to the
middle of the county, of which it comprises about
one fourth ; including ten parishes : Askham, Bamp-
ton, Barton, Brougham, Cliburn, Clifton, Crosby-
Ravensworth, Lowther, Morland, and Shap ; which
are subdivided, like the rest, into chapelries, town-
ships and villages.
Askham consists of two manors : one, the pro-
perty of Mr. King, of Askham Hall, belonged to
the llelbecks, Swynburnes, Sandfords, and Tathams
successively ; the other, which now belongs to the
Lowthers, was once the divided property of Wes-
sington and English, who had married the co-
lieiresses of Robert de Morville. The Hall, built
in 1574, on the river Lowther, has an embattled
roof, and a sombre aspect well suited to the gloom
of the surrounding scenery. Several remarkable
lieaps of stones, among which, one is called the
Druid's Cross, are in this neighbourhood ; and a
large cairn, called the White- raise.
Bampton Church, situated in the village of Bamp-
ton- Grange, was rebuilt in 1720, in a neat style, the
roof being supported by twelve lofty oaken pillars,
and the western end adorned by a tower, in which
are five musical bells. The Grammar-School, found-
ed in 1623, by Dr. Sutton, who endowed it with 500/.
and rebuilt with the church, is famous for having
given the rudiments of letters to several eminent
scholars, among whom were Dr. John 31111, and
Dr. Edmund Gibson, Bishop of London. Measand
School, in this parish, was endowed in 1711 ; and,
at Rough Hill, is a preparatory seminary, also well
endowed. Bampton has four libraries. — Thorn-
thwaite, a mansion-house, at Bampton Patrick, wag
the seat of the De Culwens, the Howards of Naworth,
and the Warwicks, of Warwick Hall, Cumberland ;
but is, at present, nothing more than a farm-house :
the manor belonging to the Lowthers. — The Old
Church in Codale is an octangular area, with a heap
of stones in the centre, and surrounded by a vallum of
stones and earth ; the Giants'-graves, on Burnbanks,
are several regular oblong mounds of earth at right
angles to each other; and Lowther Scar is a circle
of large stones, seventy feet in diameter ; probably
the sepulchre of some chieftain. — At High Knipu
was born Thomas Gibson, t author of " A System
of Anatomy," son-in-law of Richard Cromwell the
t Bishop Gibson was educated, first, at Bampton Free-
School, and afterwards, at Queen's College, Oxford. Before
the Britannia, he published Drummond's Polemo-Middia.no. ;
James V. of Scotland's Cantilena-Rustica, TheSanon Chronicle,
a correct edition of Quintilian, &c. ; and, after his great work,
he wrote, besides some other curious and valuable books,
" Codex Juris jinglicani." He was made Bishop of Lincoln
in 171:>; and, in 1723, was translated to the see of London.
He died at Bath, in 1748, in the 79th year of his age ; and was
interred at Fulham, where this inscription marks his tomb :
EDMUND GIBSON, LORD BISHOP OF LONDON.
protector,
WESTMORLAND.
411
protector, and uncle of Edmund Gibson, D. D.
Bishop of Lincoln and London, who made a new
translation of Camden's Britannia. Knipe also
gave birth to Joseph Robertson,* a celebrated critic,
and a learned and industrious writer of the last
century.
At Barton, Sockbridge Hall, an ancient edifice,
near the Eamont, was the seat of the Lancasters,
whose arms are yet seen on the ceiling of the dining-
room, and who continued here through twelve gene-
rations, when their estates' fell to the Lowthers.
The church, which is a low and extensive building,
with a heavy tower between the chancel and the
nave, contains the tomb of one of the Lancasters ;
some escutcheons of several ancient families in the
neighbourhood ; and a brass plate, on which is this
remarkable epitaph :
Under this stone, reader, interr'd dotli lye,
Beauty and virtue's true epitomy.
At her appearance the noone son
Blush' d and shrunk in, 'cause quite outdon.
In her concenter'd did all graces dwell,
God pluck'd my rose, that he might take a smel.
I'll say no more ; but weeping wish I may
Soone with thy dear chaste ashes com to lay.
Sic eiilevit maritus.
The inscription informs us, that the lady thus
eulogized was Frances, the wife of Launcelot
Dawes, and that she died in 1673. Barton School
was founded in 1641, by four priests, natives of this
parish : Dr. Dawes, Dr. Airey, Dr. Langbaine, and
Dr. Lancaster, who endowed it liberally. — Yanwath,
which has belonged to the Lowthers since 1654, is
remarkable for its Hall, situated on a precipitous
rock, which overhangs the river Eamont ; and built
in the style of the border towers. In the vicinity is
a round fortification, called Castlestead ; and a com-
plete circle of stones, which, when first discovered,
had some pieces of armour, and other evidences of
a burial-place.— At Eamont, is Arthur's Round-
table, a curious plane area, 29 yards in diameter,
surrounded by a high dyke and a deep foss, across
which there are two entrances ; and, on the adjoin-
ing plain, are several rings with low ramparts. —
Mayborouq;!), seated on a gentle eminence near
Eamont Bridge, is a circular barrier of loose stones,
30 yards broad, and 12 or 15 feet high, enclosing
an area 100 yards in diameter, in the centre of which
is a column of unhewn stone, 12 feet high, and 25
in girth. Various opinions prevail respecting this
work : some calling it a Druidical temple ; others,
a British camp ; some making it a Roman theatre ;
and others, a tilting ground. — Manindale, the pro-
perty of the Hasells of Dalemaine, contains a chace,
plentifully stocked with red-deer, which the tenants
* He was born in 1726, and educated at Appleby School ;
whence he removed, in 1746, to Queen's College, Oxford.
After having taken orders, he was presented to the vicarage of
Herriard, in Hampshire. In 1764, he engaged as a writer in
the Critical Review, in which occupation he continued till 1785.
In 1770, he was presented to the rectory of Sutton, in Essex ;
VOL. iv. — NO. 172.
are bound to assist their lord in hunting. — Patter-
dale, which is celebrated for the beauty and diversity
of its scenery, contains several handsome seats,
among which Patterdale Hall is the mansion of the
Mounseys " whose forefathers from time immemo-
rial have been called Kings of Paterdale, living,
as it were, in another world, and having no one near
them, greater than themselves."
At Brougham, near the castle, Horsley and
Gough place the Roman station, Brovacum : that it
has been a station, there is all the usual evidence r
coins and urns have been found in and about the
area, which is 120 paces square, and defended by a
vallum and outward ditch ; and several inscriptions
have been preserved, which, being mutilated, may
be, and are construed so as to confirm the precon-
ceived opinions of antiquaries, always sufficiently at
variance ; but, here, peculiarly so. — The time when
the castle was built, and the name of its founder,
are alike unknown. King James I. was entertained
there magnificently in 1617, by the Earl of Cum-
berland, whose daughter, the Countess Anne, caused
it to be repaired in 1652. In 1659, it was gar-
risoned with foot soldiers ; but, after the death of
the countess, it was suffered to decay. The en-
trance is a vaulted gateway, with a tower and a
portcullis, leading to a second gateway, with
ribbed arches, and a portcullis ; beyond which is
a spacious area, defended by lofty towers. In the
centre is a strong square tower, the hanging gal-
leries of which are overgrown with shrubs ; and
the principal apartment of which, a vaulted room
of stone, 20 feet square, remains entire. — In the
time of Edward the Confessor, the lord of the
manor was Walter de Burgham, whose male de-
scendants held it till the reign of Edward III. when
the succession ended in three co-heiresses, whose
issue inherited it in three portions till 1676, when
it was united in James Bird, Esq. At his death, the
estate was sold to John Brougham, Esq. descended
from a younger branch of the ancient lords ; and it
is, at present, the property of Henry Brougham,
Esq. a distinguished barrister, and member of the
House of Commons. — Brougham Hall, the seat of
this gentleman, stands on a woody eminence near
the Lowther, and has obtained from the beauty of
its terraces, and the richly varied prospects which
they afford, the appellation of the Windsor of the
North. The lofty hall is lighted by five Gothic
windows, filled with stained glass, representing the
family arms, scripture pieces, Dutch figures, i'ruit,
flowers, &c. producing an admirable effect. Broug-
ham Church, which stands on a romantic spot near
the Eamont, was rebuilt by the Countess of Pem-
broke, in 1059. The Forest of Whinfell was, till
and, in 1779, to the vicarage of Horncastle, in Lincolnshire.
He published an Introduction to the Study of Polite Litera-
ture, an Essay on Punctuation, a Dissertation on the Parian
Chronicle, a Translation of Telemachus, an Essay on Educa-
tion, and one on the Nature of English ferfe. ' He died in
1802.
it T the
442
WESTMORLAND.
the beginning of last century, famous for Us large
oaks, three of which were particularly distinguished
hy the name of the Three Brothers. — Julian's
Bower, described in the Pembroke memoirs,- as " a
little house hard by Whinfell Piirk," was the resi-
dence of Julian, mistress of Roger de Clifford,
about the beginning of the reigu of Edward III.
A handsome octangular pillar, by the way-side,
near Brougham, was erected by the Countess of
Pembroke, in 1656, in commemoration " of her last
parting" in that place, " with her good and pious
mother, Margaret, Countess Dowager of, Cumber-
land." In 1778, a curious broach of gold was
turned up by the plough, in Whinf'ell Forest. It
consists ot' two semi-circular parts, connected by
two clasped hands, carved with Saxo-Gothic orna-
ments ; and thus inscribed, in relief:
to w J ifje j[tt mg -;•: tvongljt 31 pfigtb •}'
anD to ?z 5 marg -Y- fjis * moiKr brigt -t
The parish of Cliburn, small, and thinly inha-
bited, was divided into two parts, Cliburn Talebois,
and Cliburn Harvey, so called from their pro-
prietors. The village stands on the banks of the
Leeth, a rapid stream which Hows from a spring
near Shap. The mansion of the Cliburns has this
inscription over the door : '
RICHARD. CLF.BUR. THUS. THEY. DID. ME. CAWLE.
WHO. IN. MY. TIME. BU1LDED. THIS. HAULE.
1557.
Clifton Church contains three small windows,
•with painted glass ; one representing a kneeling
female, and the arms of the Engains ; the second,
a crucifix; and the third, a man holding a book,
and the arms of the Fallovvlields. In 1303, the
manor became the property of the Wyberghs, by
marriage of William Wybergh with the heiress of
Gilbert Engaine ; and in their descendants it con-
tinues. The Hall appears to have been built by the
Engaines, as their arms were, in Cromwell's time,
to be seen on the doors, and other places. It is a
strong building ; but the chapel is in ruins, and the
whole, being much neglected, is fast approaching to
decay. Near the village is a well, which issues from
•a limestone-rock, and at which many people assem-
ble on the first Sunday in May to drink the water ;
which, Dr. Todd says, is strongly impregnated with
steel, nitre, and vitriol, and is efficacious in scor-
butic complaints. On the night of Wednesday,
December 18, 1745, a party of the Scots army
were attacked at this village, by the vanguard of
the Duke of Cumberland's forces, who soon drove
them out of the place, although it was a strong and
defensible post ; the English losing about 40 men ;
and the enemy a considerable number, which could
not be ascertained, as they carried them off and
buried them, under favour of the darkness. About
70 of the Scots were taken.
Crosby-Ravenswortb, or, the Cross Town in
Raven's Farm, or Ford, is the name" of a roman-
tically secluded village on the banks of the Lyven-
nate. The church, founded in the reign of Henry I.
by Torphin de Alverstain, has recently been rebuilt
by William Dent, Esq. Lord Lonsdale, and others.
In the chancel, is a tomb-stone, sculptured with a
spear and battle-axe; and .in the church-yard, a cross,
nine feet high, skilfully fixed in a massy stone socket.
The manor-house was turretted, and encompassed
by a inoat ; but it is now reduced to some decayed
walls. A free-school was founded here, nearly two
centuries ago, by a contribution of the inhabitants ;
and it was rebuilt a few years since by William
Dent, Esq. who increased its endowment by a gift
of 500/. At Reagill, also, a school was founded
and endowed by the Rev. Randal Sanderson, a
native of this village. Christopher Rawlinson, a dis-
tinguished scholar and antiquary of the last century,
was born here, and educated at Queen's College,
Oxford. — Maudsmeaburn was so called from hav-
ing been the inheritance and abode of Maud, daugh-
ter of Roger de Morville, and wife of William de
Veteripont, whom she survived, residing during her
widowhood in a Louse, the ruins of which were yet
visible in the last century, and on the site of which
the present mansion is supposed to have been found-
ed.— Here was born Lancelot Addisoa, author of
" An Account of the Present State of the Jews,"
and of " A Description of West Barbary," but
better known as the father of Joseph Addison, the
celebrated moral writer. — In the neighbourhood are
several monuments of remote antiquity, consist-
ing of heaps of stones, or blocks of granite, ranged
circularly. Such a circle, nearly entire, is seen near
Oddendale, the seat of John Gibson, Esq. ; and,
at Harberwain, is an ancient entrenchment, com-
posed of two square forts, connected by a mound
of earth, 120 yards long. — Lowther Castle, which
had been rebuilt in 1685, was burned in 1720, and
lay in ruins till 1808, when it was a second time re-
built with a fine and durable white stone, in the style
of architecture which prevailed in Europe during the
thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. The entrance
is opposite to the north front, and it is divided from
that and the terrace immediately below it, by a
smooth lawn,'' intersected and bounded by gravelled
walks, which are also bounded by a lofty wall era-
battled and adorned with towers. The interior is a
scene of magnificence seldom equalled : spacious
and lofty apartments, illumined by a dim, religious
light, which is admitted through painted windows :.
the highly ornamented saloon or drawing-room,
and the solemn cloistcr,producing alternately, and by
contrast, the most pleasing effect. The pleasure-*
grounds are extensive, and rich in scenery, perhaps
unequalled in the British empire. Lord Macartney
compared il to the wonderful garden " of Van-shoo-
yuen," in China.* — The village of Lowther was re-
* See Barrow's Travels.iu China, p. 134.
Moved
WESTMORLAND.
443
moved by Sir John Lowthcr from its site in front of
the present castle to that which it now occupies
about Jt>82; and, in 1686, he rebuilt the church,
which is finished with a dome and lantheni in the
manner of St. Paul's. After numerous divisions and
alienations, the manor became, in 14-20, solely the
property of Sir Robert de Lowther, who held it by
the coruage of twenty shillings and fourpence. —
The village of Whale, once held by a family of the
same name, has, in the words of Dr. Burn, been
gradually " drawn within the vortex of the house
of Lowther, from *jBfe te age purchasing, and never
selling again." — Hackthorpe Hall and manor were
purchased by Sir Richard Lowther, in the reign of
Queen Elizabeth ; but the former, having been occu-
pied by a tenant, is much decayed. — Melkanthorp
Hall was sold by the Dalstons to Sir John Lowther,
after having belonged to theMnsgraves, the Fallow-
fields, and that family successively.
Blorland, so called from the extensive tracts of
barren land which it formerly included, contains
eight townships. The church is a large edifice, with
Gothic pillars, and a plain tower. — Great Strickland
gave name to a family, to which belonged William
de Strickland, Bishop of Carlisle, and builder of an
aqueduct between the river Petterel and Penrith.
The demesne, as well as that of Thrimby, was pur-
chased by the Lowthers at different periods. — At
Sleagill were found, in 1808, two human skeletons,
each of which had a bra/en ring, four inches broad,
round its arm. — King's Meaburn was granted by
King John to Robert de Veteripont, in whose poste-
rity it remains vested. At Bolton is a school, en-
dowed with the interest of 190/. — Buley Castle,
pleasantly situated near the ISden, belonged to the
Bishops of Carlisle, who were wont to retire thither,
when that place was infested by the inroads of the
borderers ; but it is at present ruinous, and exhibits
no marks of former strength.
Shap, anciently called Heppe, is a long and
straggling town, with a church, which, though much
modernised, retains marks of the Norman architec-
ture. The abbey, for which the place is chiefly
remarkable, stands on the Lowther, in a secluded
place called, in old charters, f'a//ix, Magdaletif de
Hepp. It was founded, about 1119, by Thomas,
son of Cospatric, for canons of the Prajmonstra-
tensian order. The last abbot was Richard Even-
wode ; and after the Dissolution its possessions
were granted to Lord Wharton, at the death of
whose descendant, Duke Wharton, they were sold
to Robert Lowther, Esq. of Maudsmeaburn. It was
a spacious edifice ; and the materials of which it
was built were so durable, that the marks of the
chissel are still visible on the stones. The tower
and chancel vyalls remain; but the ground is covered,
to a considerable distance, with the foundations of
cloisters and offices, many of them vaulted. The
family of !loggi>rd, ancestors of the celebrated Wil-
liam Hogarth, were tenants of this abbey at the time
of the Dissolution, and several members of it still
continue in the neighbourhood. — At Shap, is a stu-
pendous monument of antiquity, called Carl-Lofts,
composed of two lines of obelisks of unhewn gra-
nite, and beginning in a circle of similar stones,
18 feet in diameter. At first, the space between
the lines is 88 feet ; but they gradually converge,
for, near Shap, the distance is only 59 feet ; and, it
is probable that, in the continuation, they met. In
the vicinity are several other monuments, among
which a tumulus, called Skellaw, or the hill of
skuIN, has probably some connexion with the above.
— Rosgill Hall, once the residence of the Rosgills,
is now converted into a farm-house ; but the remains
of a strong tower, the domestic chapel, and exten-
sive foundations, prove its former importance. Shap-
wells are resorted to, in the summer season, for their
medicinal qualities, arising from the iron and sulphur
with which they are impregnated. In this parish
was born Dr. John Mills, principal of Edmund
Hall, whose Greek Testament was printed, a fott-
night before his death, in 1707.
TABLE OF DISTANCES.
I
The Names of tJtc respective Towns are on the lop and side, and the square where both meet gives the Distance.
_
' '" *
<n
Applebv-
270
n i
38
6
Bi
. 261
ft
union
.'':
33
Ji
54
26
Burtc
11
251
K"f»nrht
14
If^Keml
a| . 262
01
30
13
28
4
5|U
Ki
„. , , „, .
34
33J24
84
Kirkby Stephen .266
Orton
26l 914
24' 1 3
22
12;Orton 267
TABLE
444
WESTMORLAND.
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445
WILTSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.
THE inland county of Wilts, situated towards
the S. W. division of England, is bounded,
on the N. and N. W. by Gloucestershire ; on the
N. E. by Berkshire ; on the E. and S. E. by Hamp-
shire ; on the S. by Dorsetshire ; and on the W. by
Somersetshire. Its figure is nearly elliptical, the
major axis inclining N. and S. Its length has been
variously estimated, at from 39 miles, to 54 ; its
breadth, from 30 to 37 ; and its superficial contents
at from 1283 to 1372 square miles. Davis, the
author of the " General View of the Agriculture of
Wiltshire," states its superficial area at 1372 square
miles, or 878,000 acres; but the official returns
of 1811, give only 1283 miles, of 821,120 acres.
— Geographically speaking, this county is naturally
divided into two portions by an irregular range of
hills, extending transversely, in a direction inclining
from the north-east to the south-west. These dis-
tricts are usually denominated South and North
Wiltshire, and differ materially from each other, in
appearance, and in almost every distinguishing
quality. — The former, which claims priority of
notice, on account of its superior extent, constitutes
the western division of a vast tract of chalk-hills,
comprising p, considerable part of Hampshire, and
having for its boundaries the rich lands of Berk-
shire, and the verge of the Marlborough bills on the
north ; the broken ground of Somersetshire on the
west ; the New Forest of Hampshire on the south ;
and the heaths of Surrey and Sussex, with the West
Downs of the latter county, on the east. This por-
tion of the county presents to the eye, from a dis-
tance, the appearance of a large elevated plain : on
a nearer inspection, however, it offers a somewhat
different aspect. It then appears to be indented by
numerous, and frequently extensive vallies, and to
display an almost continued series of gentle emi-
nences, with now and then a bolder height rising
above the others, but never to a mountainous eleva-
tion. The surface of the higher grounds, or Downs,
is spread out like the ocean ; but it is like the ocean
after a storm ; it is continually heaving in large
swells.
This district is separated into two divisons, Marl-
borough-Downs, and Salisbury-Downs, or Plain.
VOL. iv. — KG. 173.
Both these portions, however, are characterized by
the same generic features, excepting, perhaps, that
the eminences in the former are more abrupt and
elevated than in the latter. Around Stonehenge a.
level prevails, and the face of the country exhibits
a tamer aspect than even the high wolds of York-
shire. The views are smooth and naked, yet beau-
tiful. The principal vallies in this division of the
county lie along the banks of the rivers, the most
remarkable of which diverge like irregular radii
from the country around Salisbury and Wilton.
These display rich meadow and corn lands, inter-
spersed with seats and villages, and finely covered,
at intervals, with plantations of wood.— North Wilt-
shire differs from the southern division of the county
in its general appearance ; its aspect, from the verge
of the Downs to the hills of Gloucestershire, being
nearly that of a perfect flat, the few deviations from
the ordinary level, being, for the greater part, so
gradual, as scarcely to be perceptible on a cursory
view. The country here is also so extremely close,
and well wooded, that when viewed from any of the
surrounding hills, it appears like one vast planta-
tion. If examined in detail, however, it is found
to contain also many extensive tracts of rich arable
and pasture land, on the banks of the Lower Avon
and the Thames, &c. — The climate of this county
is not characterized by any peculiar features : the
air in South Wiltshire is generally cold and sharp ;
hence that district, though highly favourable to
health, is not very congenial to agricultural purposes.
In North Wiltshire the climate is milder, but is
nevertheless cold.
SOIL.] — The soils of Wiltshire, though exceed-
ingly various, may be described under the heads of
a calcareous loam, and a deep black mould ; the
former found in North, the other in South Wiltshire.
In the southern district, all the high land shews a
dissolved chalk ; whilst the black earth of the vallies
often degenerates into veins of peat ; and the whole
is intersected by stripes of a sandy soil, which follow
the course of the sub-strata of sand-stone, usually
not infertile. The loam of the northern side is red,
with a mixture of irregular, flat stones. From the
absence of a sub-layer of wain-stone or gravel, it
5 u sometimes
446
WILTSHIRE.
sometimes deteriorates ; which effect is furthered
by an under-stratum of cold blue cloy, very un-
favourable to the process of vegetation. In this
district, also, are several sand veins ; and a cold
iron clay, which was never so well applied as when
in its original state of wood-land.
AGRICULTURE.] — In the economy of the farmers
of Wiltshire there is no peculiar feature ; except
that the grazing system prevails over tillage, and is
conducted with a view to the making of cheese.
Fallowing is in general use ; and irrigation is prac-
tised in the southern, though not in the northern
district. The most general crops are wheat and
barley, on the high white lands ; and, in the vallies,
green food for the winter maintenance of cattle. The
manure employed is the produce of the sheep-folds ;
as, although abundance of a different kind could be
procured, it would be almost impracticable, on
account of the steepness of the bills, to convey it to
the land.
CATTLE.] — In North Wiltshire, where the grazing
iysteui prevails, the long-horned cows are most
common; although the Devonshire have been intro-
duced, and are said to afford more milk, to have
larger carcases when fattened, and to require less
food, than the former. The cheese has been long
and deservedly celebrated, and was formerly sold
in the metropolis, as double and single Gloucester,
\\hich it much resembles. The southern district
may be regarded as one large sheep farm, the sum-
mer stock of which was formerly estimated at
500,000 head ; and may probably now amount to
one- third more. The animal most in vogue is the
long-legged Wiltshire ; but there are many flocks of
South Downs, which were first introduced about
1789. This kind, being small in size, and very
hardy, is easily supplied with sustenance, and is
eminently capable of enduring the rigour of a Wilt-
shire winter : essential qualifications in a country so
cold and so scantily supplied with winter food. —
Pigs, the usual and profitable attendants on a large
dairy, are reared in great numbers in the dairy dis-
trict ; the most common breed being a cross of the
long-eared white, or Wiltshire pig, and the black
African, or Negro. Much bacon is cured, which,
as the animal is often fed with whey and barley-meal,
is deservedly celebrated for its excellence.
WOODS, WASTE LANDS, ike.] — History informs us,
>that, at an early period, a great part of this county
was covered with trees ; but this observation must be
' considered as applicable only to the northern dis-
trict? where there were seven or eight forests, or
parts of forests, kuowu by the names of the New-
Forest, Sel wood -Forest-, Melksham -Forest, Chip-
peuham-Forest, Bradon-Forest, CIarendo«-Forcst,
Chute-Forest, and Savernalce- Forest. The New-
Forest extended to Devizes. Selwood, on the south-
west side of the county, was sometime the retreat of
Alfred. Melksham extended from the town of that
jiame towards Chippenham. Bradon-Forest, now
cut down, lay at the northern extremity of
the county, and was probably the most extensive
within its limits. Clarendon, attached to the palace
of that name, was the favourite chaceof the English
monarchs ; and it was after hunting there that Ed-
ward the Martyr met his fate. Savernake, the pro-
perty of the Earl of Aylesbury, is still well wooded,
particularly with oaks ; and is well stocked with
deer. Three woodland districts retain the name of
chaces ; Cranbourn, Vernditch, and Albourn ; the
two first on the confines of Dorsetshire ; the third in
the centre of Marlborough Downs. — The wastelands
of Wiltshire, which are found chiefly in the northern
part, within the limits of disafforested districts,
might be applied most profitably to the use to
which nature had assigned them — the production of
timber. It is a common idea, that Salisbury Plain
and the other Downs are waste ; such is not, how-
ever, the fact : they are, for the most part, insus-
ceptible of high cultivation ; and it is a quality of
the herbage to be sweeter for sheep when close fed,
than when trained up as rich pasturage. Many
parts, however, when the soil will allow, are highly
and beautifully cultivated.
FARMS, LEASES, TITHES, Sic.] — The construction
and situation of farm-houses, &c. are not so vari-
able in South Wilts, as in many other counties. la
general, they are crowded together in villages, for
the convenience of water, and are therefore fre-
quently very badly situated for the occupation of
the lands. Within the last 30 years, however, the
system of erecting new farm-houses, and buildings
at a distance from the villages, has been liberally
practised, by the Earl of Pembroke, and other great
landholders. — The farms in severalty in the south-
west district, or those not subject to the right of
common, are in general from ISO/, to 500/. and a
few manor farms at 1000/. per annum, and upwards.
— The tenantry " yard-lands," or " customary tene-
ments," are in general from 251. to 40/. per annum,
and a few are as high as 50/. Some of these are
still occupied singly by the owners as copyhold, or
leasehold tenants, of the respective manors, although
consolidations of them have been taking place for
many years past, partly from the heavy expences
attending such occupations, and partly from their
being allowed to fall into hand to save extra build-
ings.— The granting of leases in Wiltshire depends
much upon soil and situation. The usual terms in
the south-east district are sometimes seven years,
oftener fourteen, now and then twenty-one. Of late,
twelve years has been thought the most eligible
term, as being more divisible into a regular course
of sowing the arable land. The tenant is bound to
sow his lands in the course limited by the lease ; to
keep up a full flock of sheep, and fold them in due
course of husbandry on some part of his premises ;
but in the last year, as the landlord shall direct, to
spend all hay, straw, &c. on the premises, to spread
all the dung on the same, except the dung of the
last year's crop, and (if a Lady-Day bargain) the
straw of the off-growing crop, which are to be left
at
WILTSHIRE.
447
at the disposal of the landlord. — The general custom
of a Wiltshire Lady-Day entry is, that the rent com-
mences on Lady-Day, at which time the tenant enters
upon all the grass ground, brings on his sheep and
cows, and brings on the meadows for mowing.
Tithes, in Wiltshire, are for the most part paid
in kind ; and there are numerous instances, where
every occupier rents his own tithes of the clergy-
man, or impropriator.
CANALS.] — The canals of this county are four in
number : the Thames and Severn, the Kennel and
Avon, the Wiltshire and Berkshire, and the South-
ampton canal. The Thames and Severn, com-
mencing at Stroud, and terminating at Lechlade,
crosses the northern extremity of the county. The
Kennet and Avon Canal, projected in 1794, met
with many obstacles to its completion, which did
not occur till 1809, when an immense sum had been
expended. It crosses the whole coun y from west
to east, ascending steep hills by means of locks,
and passing rivers by aqueducts. It passes Brad-
ford, Trowbridge, Devizes, Great Bedwin, and
Hungerford. The Wiltshire and Berkshire branches
from the last mentioned canal at Limington, and,
flowing by a circuitous course to Calne, proceeds to
Wootton Basset ; whence, passing Chaddenton and
Swinden, it flows near Highworth, and there leaves
the county. The Salisbury and Southampton canal
was intended as a channel of communication between
those two places ; but it has never been completed.
ROADS.] — The turnpike roads of Wiltshire are
excellent, both in material and repair. The private
roads, like those of other counties, depend so much
on the disposition of individuals, that they are inde-
scribably various. In South Wiltshire, they were
proverbially bad, till a recent period.
MINERALS AND FOSSILS.] — The substructure of
the two districts of Wiltshire is as different as their
external aspect : the downs of South Wiltshire lie
on strata of chalk, and the lower grounds on clays,
flints, and sandstone : the soil of North Wiltshire
rests on substrata of flat broken stones, of various
* Asplenium Tricllomanes Common Black Maidenhair ;
on Milton Church.
*4vena pubescens. Rough Oat Grass; on Marlborough Downs.
Convallaj'ia mutiijlora, Solomon's Seal ; in a bushy close
belonging to the parsonage at Akleibury, near
Clarendon.
— mulfijlora fi. Dwarf English Solomon's Seal ; in
the wonds in this county.
Efjiiisc turn liyemulc. Naked Horsetail ; in a river near Broad-
slitch Abbey, plentifully.
Hedysarum Onobrychis. Common Sain, Foin, or Cocks Head;
on Salisbury Plain.
•Hypnum ornithopodioidcs. Bird's-foot Hypnum ; on the Grey
Weathers.
• — . . . • smithii ; on Stoiiehenge.
Jlex aquifolium, baccis luteis Common Holly ; with a yellow
berry, near Wardour Castle.
Lichen coccineus. Scarlet Liverwort ; ) c, ,
. parclbu. Crab's Eve Liverwort ; \ on Sloncbenge.
— — siliquosus. Podded Liverwort ; in fields, neat the
Grey Weathers.
shapes and properties, and mixed with earth. The
chalk is sometimes burned, and sometimes applied
to the land in its native state. The flat stones are
often used for roofing, sometimes for pavements ;
and a third kind has the properties of freestone ; of
which there are some fine quarries on the west side
of the county. At Wootton-Basset, a fossil, re-
sembling in shape a small fir-apple, is found in the
blue clay ; and at Grittleton, a flinty substance, of
a circular form, like a meniscus lens, convex on
one side, and concave on the other.
RIVERS.] — There are, in Wiltshire, numerous
streamlets ; as, the Upper Avon, the Nadder, the
Willey, the Bourne, and the Kennet ; and two rivers
of more importance : the Thames, and the Lower
Avon : the former, rising, according to some, near
Swinden, and certainly attaining a greater shce,
than the other branch which meets it from Cotes in
Gloucestershire. The Lower Avon, proceeding from
its source at Wootton-Bassett, to its exit from the
county near Bath, passes Malmesbury, Dantzey,
Chippenham, Melksham, and Bradford, and receives
the tribute of several other currents. The Upper
Avon, formed by the confluence-of several brooks
from the hills, near the centre of the county, pro-
ceeds, by a winding current, across the downs by
Ambresbury, Old Sarum, and Salisbury, and leaves
the county near Downton, being joined at or near
Salisbury, by the Bourne, from Easton ; the Willey,
from Warminster ; and the Nadder, from Shaftes-
bury. The Kennet, noted for its eels and trout,
rises near Ufcot, and passes Marlborough and Hun-
gerford, where it leaves the county.
PLANTS.] — A list of the few plants for whieh-this
county is noted, is given below.*
ETYMOLOGY, GENERAL HISTORY, ANTIO.UITIES,
&c.]— This county derives its name from its chief
town, WTilton, probable the etymology of which will
hereafter appear. It has been said, that the Phoe-
nician Hercules established a colony iii this county ;
an assertion which is chiefly founded on a supposed
resemblance which Dr. Stukeley discovered between
Lichen plieatus. Tree Liverwort, or Moss ; on Martinsall
Hill.
Lycoperdon tuber. Truffles, or Solid Puff Ball ; . on the
Downs under ground.
Ornith'Ogalum Pyrenaicum. Mountain Star of Bethlehem ; in
the way from Bath to Bradford, not far from
Little Ashley.
Orchis coitopsta. Red-handed Orchis; on Salisbury Plain,
near Dumford.
Poli/podium oreopferis. Most likely the FiRxfamina odorata
of Howe ; in the forest of Savernake.
Srtlix rubra. Red Willow; near Salisbury.
Thcsium linopfiyllum. Bastard Toad-flax; on Salisbury Plain,
Peltaannua. Cress Rocket ; on Salisbury Plain, not fac from
Stonehenge.
Viciasylvestris. Tufted Wood Vetch ; in woods and hedges
near the Devizes.
Orchcston Grass. Either the Poa trivialis ft. reptans. (With.)
or Agrostis stoionifera ; ,in a close at Mad-
dington, two miles from Salisbury, near to
Qvcheston St. Mary's.
the
448
WILTSHIRE.
the form of the city of Old Sarum and that of Alesia
in Xjaul, described by Julius Caesar, and traditi-
onally said to have been the work of the same my-
thological personage. A resemblance, however,
between these two cities, even were it fully ascer-
tained, would not proof the identity in their origin.
— At the invasion of our island by Cresar, the Belgas
seem to have inhabited a portion of this county ; the
Hedui are said tohave occupied its north- western divi-
sion, near the source of the Avon, and about Crick-
lade ; and another district is mentioned as being sub-
sequently possessed by the Carvilu, so named from
their prince Carvilius. Whether these people were
some of the Belgae, or a distinct tribe, does not pre-
cisely appear. Other authors further suppose that
the Cangi inhabited the northern parts. In the reign
of Claudius, the Belgae were found to have sub-
dued the whole of Wiltshire, and to have possessed
themselves of all the territories of the Hedui. To the
progress of the conquest of Britain by the Romans,
the inhabitants of Wiltshire, particularly of its
northern division, at first opposed a powerful and
determined resistance ; but, subsequently, they seem
either to have been completely held in subjection, or
to have incorporated themselves with their conque-
rors. This county was included in the province of
Britannia Prima. Many stations, encampments, and
other military vestiges of the Romans can still be
traced ; and it is said to have been one of the last
districts of Britain which they abandoned. After
the departure of the Romans, the earliest event of
importance which occurs in history respecting Wilt-
shire is the massacre of three huncfrcd British nobles,
on the spot where Stonehenge is situated, by the
orders of Hengist, the Saxon chief, who had invited
them hither to a banquet. The truth of this, how-
ever, is doubtful. After numerous contests, the
origin, progress, and termination of which are in-
volved in obscurity, Egbert, having succeeded to
the throne of Wessex, gained a decisive victory at
Wilton, which, in its consequences, surpassed all
the previous actions of any Saxon monarch. A new
horde of formidable enemies, however, made a de-
scent on the island in the 32d year of his reign.
These were the Danes, from whose ravages Wilt-
shire particularly suffered. On the death of Ethel-
red, from a wound received in the disastrous field
of Wimburne, the kingdom of Wessex devolved to
his brother, Alfred ; who, quickly collecting an
army, attacked the Danish forces with great impe-
tuosity at a short distance from Wilton, and, after an
obstinate contest, put them completely to flight.
Unhappily, he pursued his success with so much in-
caution, that they were enabled to rally, and regain
the day. Still, however, the army of Alfred remained
unbroken ; while that of the Danes suffered so griev-
ously, that they deemed it advisable to conclude a
treaty with the West-Saxon monarch, which stipu-
lated, that they should forthwith evacuate his domi-
nions.
To the reign of Edward the Martyr, no further
public event occurs in Wiltshire which seems to
demand particular notice. — In 976, mention is made
of a synold held at Calne, in which the respective
rights- of the regular and secular clergy underwent
a solemn discussion. Dunstan, Archbishop of Can-
terbury, presided ; and it has been asserted, that,
fearing the issue of the contest would prove unfa-
vourable to his own views, he procured all the beams
of the hall, in which the assembly met, to be cut
nearly asunder, except the one which supported his
own seat ; so that when Bernhelm, a Scotch Bishop,
was speaking with great eloquence on the side of
the Canons, the floor gave way, and many of them
were either killed or wounded. Of the truth of this
statement, however, the evidence is very doubtful.
— The next historical occurrence, connected with
Wiltshire, took place in 1003, when Swein, or Sueno,
King of Denmark, landed, and advancing into the
interior, laid waste this county to revenge the bar-
barous massacre of the Danes, by King Ethelred,
in the previous year. The towns of Wilton and
Sarum were plundered, and nearly burnt to the
ground ; and the Danish monarch returned home
loaded with a greater booty than any of his prede-
cessors had acquired. — -In 1006 another army of
Danes visited Wessex; and, having ravaged the coun-
ties of Hants and Berks, was retiring to the coast,
through Wiltshire, when the men cf that county
attacked it in the vicinity of Rennet. The Saxons,
however, were totally defeated. — In 1011, Swein,
and his son, Canute, landed on the south coast, and
marching through Wilts, Somerset, and Dorset,
imposed heavy contributions. King Edward at this
time lay sick at Corsham ; but his son, Edmund,
took the field, and obliged the invaders to fly to their
ships. Their naval superiority gave them great
advantages ; for, sailing immediately to the east-
ward, Canute entered the Thames, advanced into
the country, and reached Cricklade without- oppo-
sition. Edmund, having succeeded to the throne,
now marched to meet the Danish monarch ; and
liaving encountered his army at Pen, in Dorsetshire,
forced him to seek refuge in the fortress of Win-
chester. Having soon, however, received additional
reinforcements, he quitted his strong-hold, detached
a part of his troops to besiege Sarum, and moved
forward with the remainder to " Scearstan," or
" Sherston," on the north-western verge of the
county, where an obstinate battle ensued. This
engagement lasted two days ; but on the morning
of the third, Edmund was surprised to find that
Canute had fled towards Essex ; notwithstanding
victory had inclined in his favour on the preceding
vening. — Subsequently to the Norman conquest,
Wiltshire retained considerable interest. In 1086,
the Conqueror held a great council at Sarum ;
" where all the principal landholders submitted their
ands to the yoke of military tenure, became the
•-ing's vassals, and did homage and fealty to his
person." Several convocations were also held here,
ay William's successors. — During the disputes
between
WILTSHIRE.
between Stephen and the Empress Maud, Wiltshire
was particularly distinguished. Roger, Bishop of
Sarum, was the principal instrument in the elevation
of the former ; but having afterwards excited suspi-
cion, he was arrested, and deprived of his castle of
Sarum. — Clarendon, in this county, is remarkable
for the laws passed there in the reign of Henry II.
which are still familiar to the antiquary, by the
appellation of the Constitutions of Clarendon. At
Mariborough, in 1267, Henry III. held a parliament,
or a general assembly of the estates of England, to
provide for " the better state of the realm, and the
more speedy administration of justice ;" and here
were consequently enacted those statutes for the sup-
pression of tumults, which have ever since been de-
nominated " The Statutes of Marlbridge." — During
the contests between the houses of York and Lan-
caster, the inhabitants of Wiltshire were conspicuous
for their attachment to the fortunes of the Henries.
A great number of them were present at the battle
of Tewksbury, and bore the brunt of that fatal day.
— In the deplorable events of the 17th century, this
county was equally distinguished. Many actions
between the parliamentary and royal forces were
decided within its boundaries : particularly at
Malmsbury, at Ludgershall, and at Round-a-way
Hill, in the neighbourhood of Devizes. Wardour
Castle, and that of Devizes, were besieged and taken
by both parties, within one year. Warminster and
several other towns of inferior note, likewise stood
sieges, and were taken and retaken at different
periods of this era.
In the year 646, the diocese of Winchester was
probably the most extensive in England. King Ina,
regarding it as too large to be under the spiritual
jurisdiction of one prelate, divided it into two ; that
of Winchester, which still retained two counties, he
gave to Daniel ; and the other, which was fixed at
Sherborne, and comprised the remaining six coun-
ties, he conferred on Aldhelm. Wiltshire was of
course included in the diocese of the latter, which
continued, without any alteration, in its extent or
government, during a succession of thirteen bishops.
— William the Conqueror, having established him-
self on the throne, directed much of his attention to
ecclesiastical matters. He ordered a synod to be
held at St. Paul's, in London, in 1076, and proposed
that the episcopal seats should be removed from
obscure villages, to towns of some importance.
Herman consequently embraced the opportunity of
fixing his seat at Old Sarum, where he founded a
cathedral church, which was afterwards finished by
his successor Osmund. In the prelacy of Richard,
suruamed Poore, who succeeded to the see of Salis-
bury, in 1217, the episcopal seat was removed to
New Sarum, or Salisbury, its present situation. —
The antique remains, in this county, first entitled
to notice, in a collective view, are the stupendous
monuments at Avebury, and Stonehenge, both of
which are commonly regarded as Druidical temples.
Next to these, because resembling them in relative
VOL. IV.— NO. 173.
magnitude, though totally dissimilar in kind, the
Wansdyke claims attention. This vast earth-work,
which is supposed to have originally intersected the
whole county, is now distinctly visible only in de-
tached places, except throughout the range of hills to
the south and west of Marlborough, where it remains
tolerably entire, and in one place is seen in a bold
and connected line for the space of ten or twelve
miles. The construction of this work is referred by
some to the Aboriginal inhabitants of the island, and
by others to the Belgse, whilst a third class of writers
ascribe it to the West Saxons.— The artificial hil-
locks, or mounds of earth, which abound in this
county, and which appear to have an intimate con-
nexion with those temples, were undoubtedly appro-
priated to sepulchral purposes. — The Roman stations
mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus, as within
the county, are Sorbiodunum, Verlucio, and Cunetio.
The first of these is placed by all antiquaries at Old
Sarum ; but the situation of the other two has been
much disputed. Cainden fixes Verlucio at West-
bury ; Horsley at Lack ha in ; and Stukeley in the
neighbourhood of Hecldington. Cunetio was for-
merly supposed by some to be at the village of
Kennet, and by others at Marlborough ; but it is
now generally allowed to have been situated at a
short distance east from the latter place, near the
north-eastern boundary of Savernake Forest. Be-
sides these the Romans had several other settle-
ments : particularly at Easton-Grey ; at Wanbo-
rough, near Heytesbury ; and at Littlecot. — Of the
Roman roads which passed through Wiltshire, the
principal was a continuation of the Julia-Strata.
This road, entering the county from Bath (Aquae
Solis) near Bathford, ran north-easterly by Medley
and Spy-Park to Verlucio, (near Heddington,) and
thence by Colston and Kennet to Cunetio, in its
waytoSpinae, (orSpene.) The Fosse- lload struck
offfrom the Julia- Strata at Bathford, and continued
by Banner-Down, Easton-Grey, across the turnpike
road between Tetbury and Malmsbury, to Ciren-
cester,(Coriniuro, or Durocornovium.) Another great
road proceeded from this station in a south-east
direction by Cricklade to Wanhorough, where it
separated into two branches, the one continuing '>y
Baydon to Spene, and the other by Ogburne, Mil-
denhall, Tottenham, and Martou, through Chute
Park to Winchester. Several other roads connected
Sorbiodunum with neighbouring stations, and of
these, three are traced with considerable certainty :
1st. One which led to Durnovaria, or Dorchester,
and passed by Bemerton Church, Tony-Stratford,
Woodyates-Inn, and Bradbury, in Dorsetshire. —
2dly. That to Venta-Belgarum, Winchester, by
Ford and Winterslow Mill, Buccold Farm, and
Bossington. 3dly. Another to Vindonum, or Sil-
chester, which ran north-easterly by Porton and
Idmiston, and quitted this county near Benson's
Folly. A fourth is supposed to have led northerly
to the station of Cunetio ; a fifth, south-westerly
towards Iscalia, or Ilchester ; and a sixth to
5 x Aquw-
450
WILTSHIRE.
Aqua-Sou's, or Bath, by Bishops-Trow, and
Yarnbury, Seratcbbury, and Battlesbury Castles.
The Ridgeway is also mentioned by Whitaker as a
Roman road ; but it is evidently of British origin.
It is distinctly visible on the high ridge which ex-
tends from Avebury, in a north-easterly direction,
to Berkshire, and in some places across that county
towards Dorchester, in Oxfordshire. — The numerous
encampments, and other entrenched earthen works
with which Wiltshire abounds, vary much, not only
in size and shape, but in method of construction and
peculiarity of situation. Someof these are the works
of the Britons, others of the Beigac, of the Romans,
of the Saxons, the Danes, and the Normans ; many
of them, however, have been, in all probability, suc-
cessively occupied and altered by the armies of one
or more of these nations, at different periods, sub-
sequently to their original formation. The immense
fortifications of Old Sarnm, Chidbury Hill, and
Vespasian's camp, near Amesbury, constitute the
most noted monuments, in this class of antiquities.
Encampments are discovered at, or near, each of i
the following places : on Whitesheet Hill, Clay
Hill, Warminster Down, Whiten Hill, Cotley Hill,
Knighton Down, Pewsey Heath, Oldbury Hill near
Calne, Roundway Hill near Devizes, Martinsall
Hill near Marlborough, Chidbury Hill near Lud-
gershall, Blunsden Hill near Highworth, Beacon
Hill, Southley Wood, Roddenbury, Hays, Bratton,
Battlesbury, Scratchbury, Knook, Yarnbury, Bil-
bury, Hanging Langford, Crovely, East Castle,
Rolston, Casterley, Chilbury^Haydon, Godbury,
Ledbury, Ogbury, Newton Toney, Alderbury,
Whichbury, Clearbury, Winkelbury, Broad Chalk,
Chiselbury, VVootlyates Inn, Spelbury near Fovant,
Denton, ami Little Path Hill. — This county, at an
early period, contained a number of those baronial
fortified structures, usually termed castles, and sup-
posed by several writers to have been first intro-
duced by the Normans. Most of them, however,
are now totally demolished, so that it is even difficult
to ascertain their actual sites.
CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS.] — This
county is divided into 29 hundreds, which are sub-
divided into 2&5 parishes, and 14 parts of parishes.
It has 73 acting magistrates, and 13 petty sessions.
— The county is situa.ted in the province of Can-
terbury ; and, with the exception of the parish of
Kingswood, is in the diocese of Salisbury. It com-
prehends two archdeaconries, Sarum and Wilts ;
the former comprising the deaneries of Salisbury,
Amesbury, Chalk, Pottern, Wilton, and Wily ; and
the latter, with the annexed rectory of Minety,
those of Avebury, Cricklade, Malmsbury, and Marl-
borough.
FAIRS.] — dmesbury— May 17, Jane 22, Dec. IB,
horses, sheep, pigs and horned cattle.
Barwick Hill, near Hindon— November 0, cattle,
sheep, horses, swine and cheese.
Bradford — Trinity Monday, cattle and millinery.
Bradford Leigh — August 25, sheep and horses ;
20, a great pleasure fair.
Britford — August 12, sheep and horses.
Calne — May 6, for horses, horned cattle, sheep
and cheese ; July 22, pedlary and toys.
Castle Combe — May 4, horned cattle, sheep and
horses.
Chilmark — July 30, cattle, sheep, pigs, cheese
and horses.
Chippenham — May 17, June 22, October 29 Dec.
11, cattle, slreep, pigs and horses.
Clack— April 5, October 10, cattle, sheep, horses,
swine and cheese.
Collingbourn Duds— December 11, horses, cows
and sheep.
Corsham— March 7, September 4, cattle, sheep and
horses.
Corsley Heath — June 4, August 5, for cattle,
horses and cheese.
Cricklade — Second Thursday in April, sheep
cows and calves. September21, chapman's goods'
and for hiring servants.
Devizes — February 14, cattle; Holy Thursday
cattle, horses and sheep ; April 20, a great fair for
cattle, sheep, &c. July 5, wool ; October 2, sheep •
October 20, a large fair for sheep and hogs.
Dillon Marsh— Sept. 24, cattle, horses and cheese.
Downton— April 23, October 2, sheep and horses
Great Bedtem— April 23, July 26, horses, cows'
sheep and hardware.
Heytesbury — May 14, cattle, sheep and toys •
September 25, toys only.
Highworth— August 12, October 10, 29, for all
sorts of cattle, pigs, sheep and horses.
Hindon— May 27,October 29, cattle, sheep, horses,
swine and cheese.
King's DOKH, near Bath— Sept. 23, cattle, &c.
Laycock — July 7, cattle,&c. December 21, horses,
horned cattle and sheep.
Ludgershalt — August 5, horses, cows and sheep.
Maiden Bradley — May 6, October 2, for cattle
horses, pigs and cheese.
Malmsbury— March 28, April 28, J/une 5, cattle
and horses.
Marlborough — July 10, August 1, November 23,
cattle, sheep, horses and pedlary.
Melksham — July 27, cattle, sheep, horses, pi«-«
cheese and pedlary.
Mere — May 17, October 10, cattle, pigs, cheese
and pedlary.
Nor/ease — April 23, cattle, horses and pedlary.
North Bradley — September 15, cattle and cheese.
Pewsey — September 16.
Parlim — Tuesday before May 6, for cattle.
Ramsbury — May 14, October 10, horses, cows,
sheep and toys.
St.. Ann's Hill, Devizes — August 6, horses, cheese
and sheep.
Salisbury — Monday before the 5th,of April, broad
and narrow cloths ; Whit-Monday and Tuesday for
pedtory and horses j October 22, Twelfth -Market,
1) urges
WILTSHIRE.
451
horses and pedlary ; Tuesday after January 6, cattle
and woollen cloth.
Shenton — May 12, Oct. 2, for oxen and fat cattle.
Steeple Ashton — September 19, cheese and horses.
Suindon — March 25, May 20, September 23,
December 8, 23, for cattle of all sorts, pigs and
sheep.
Tan- Hill, near Devises — August 6, horses, cheese
and sheep.
Trowbridge — August 5, 6, and 7, for milliners'
goods, cattle and pedlary.
Uphaven — October 29, horses, cows and sheep.
Warmiiister — April 22, August 11, October 26,
cattle, sheep, swine and cheese.
We&tbury — First Friday in Lent, Easter Monday,
Whit-Monday, pedlary.
Whichbury — November 17, hogs.
Wilton — May 4, September 12, sheep.
fVotton Basset — April 2, May 7, October 8, cows,'
*nd pigs.
Yarloroiigh Castle — Oct. 5, cattle, sheep, horses
and swine.
MANUFACTURES, TRADE, &c.] — The manufactures
of Wiltshire are various and extensive : Salisbury
is noted for its flannels, cutlery, and steel goods ;
Wilton for its carpets, and fancy woollens. At
Mere, a large quantity of linen is made ; broad-
cloaths, kerseymeres, and fancy cloths are fabri-
cated at Bradford, Trowbridge, Warmiiister, West-
bury, Mclksham, and Chippenham ; cotton goods
at Albourne ; and gloves at Swindon. The poor
of the parishes, round Stourton and Maiden-Brad-
ley, arc supplied from the Dorsetshire and Bruton
manufactures, with flax and silk for spinning : an
excellent employment for the poor of any village.
POPULATION.] — The population of this county, in-
the year 1700, was 153,903;, in 1750, 168,400; in
1801, 191,200; and, in 1811, 200,300. The pro-
portions of births are as I to 35 ; of marriages, of
1 to 136 ; and of deaths, as 1 to 54.
Summary of the Population of the County of WILTS, as published by Authority of Parliament, in 1811.
HUNDREDS, &c.
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
Inhabited.
g-jj
1°^
o — 'Z.
-c -5
Buildings.
Uninhabited.
>\
JJT1
£ ti<!
'= E 2 t
All oilier Fami-
lies not comprised
in the two pre-
ceding Classes.
Males.
Females
Tola! '
of
Persons.
733
1284
1766
1455
1014
710
479
3185
1012
1098
959
1016
206
859
1939
1490
1700
1749
2398
753
1381
549
1064
1607
244
1784
1151
985
696
445
1533
803
1243
2072
1637
1105
783
571
3565
110]
1146
1092
1095
232
1003
2095
1631
1953
2033
2591
S66
1647
588
1156
I860
268
1940
1260
1103
855
649
1S91
5
5
7
5
5
3
2
22
7
4
13
3
1
3
14
20
19
17
6
'2
6
1
4
6
2
13
6
7
18
8
49
54
78
39
29
30
14
110
27
14
13
42
5
35
42
30
17
47
68
28
32
10
38
49
9
69
36
22
11
11
34
621
836
548
974
617
577
482
1759
764
782
732
790
195
635
1483
1086
1308
1389
628
296
964
379
881
1450
184
825
483
670
191 .
137
1
122
248
1446
593
433
151
83
1420
304
273
220
240
31
274
411
365
333
461
1723
540
330
105
191
277
70
717
587
386
498
405
1620
60
159
78
70
55
55
6
406
33
91
140
65
6
94
201
ISO
312
183
240
30
353
104
84
433
14
398
190
47
166
107
270
1849
2532
4269
3360
2382
1692
1215
7833
2374
2504
2410
2303
555
2180-
4894
3856
4474
4443
5706
1849
3379
1394
2532
3722
541
3882
2761
2498
1776
1277
3456
1662
1858
2710
5166
3919
2680
1944
1337
8653
2630
2827
2921
2586
2440
5509
4171
4689
4825
7105
2095
3819
1462
2698
4336
649
4597
3181
283.7
1974
1302
4787
3707
5242
9435
7279
5062
3636
2552
16486
5004
5331
5331
4889
1116
4620
10403
8027
9163
9268
12811
3944
7198
2856
5234
8058
1190
8479
5942
5335
3750
2579
8243
1662
Calne
Chalk
Frustfielcl
Highworth, Cricklade, >
Ditto of Marlborongh
Totals
37244
41844
234
1 037
22657
14857
4330
91460
0?-?6R JJ93828
PARLI AW EKTAKY
452
WILTSHIRE.
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.] — Wiltshire
returns 3-1 members to parliament : 2, for the county;
2, for the city of Salisbury ; and 2, for each of the
boroughs, as distinguished in the succeeding- list.
MARKET TOWNS, BOROUGHS, &c.] — The follow-
ing are the market towns, and boroughs of this
county, with their population respectively :
Population.
Towns. Market. Days. 1801 1811
Amesbury Friday , 721 723
Bedwin * Tuesday 1637 1852
Bradford Monday 7302 9018
Calne* Tuesday 3767 3581
Chippenham * Thursday 3366 3410
Cricklade* Saturday 1333 1556
Devizes* Thursday 3547 3750
Downlon* . Friday..* 2426 2624
Heytesbury *...... 1072 1023
Highworth Wednesday 1493 1585
Hindon* Thursday.. ...» 793' 781
Lavington. Monday and Wednesday 918 899
Ludgershall * 471 487
Malmsbury* Saturday 1107 1152
Marl borough* Saturday 2367 2579
Melksham Monday 4030 4110
Mere , Tuesday 2211
Salisbury* Tuesday and Saturday 7668 8243
Sarum * '—
Swindon Monday 1198 1341
Trowbridge Saturday 5799 6075
Warminster Saturday 4932 4866
Westbury * Friday 1837 1799
Wilton* Wednesday 2144 1963
Wotton Basset* Thursday 1244 1390
* The places with this mark * affixed, return members to par-
liament.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
ALBOURNE.] — ALBOURNE, 6| miles N. E. from
Maryborough, gave name to a royal chace ; and it
is even said that King John had a hunting seat there.
It was the scene of a battle between the royalists
under the King, and the parliamentarians under
Essex, in September 1643, when the latter were
defeated. On this occasion, the town suffered con-
siderably ; but much more, by a fire, in 1760, when
72 houses were completely destroyed.
AVEBURY.] — The village of Avebury, five miles
W. from Marlborough, situated within the very area
of a British temple, claims the particular attention
of the topographer and the antiquary. The enclo-
sure, which is formed by a wide and deep ditch,
and a lofty external vallum, contains many large
stones ; some of which are erect, and the others
lying on the ground. Southward from the village
at some distance, are other large stones, erect or
prostrate ; and, westward, are two others, erect.
Several walls and houses of the village are con-
structed with broken masses of these ponderous
monuments ; yet enough remains, to excite curiosity
and prompt research. The following is a description
of this great temple, in its original state : — " Im-
mediately within the ditch, and encompassing the
whole area, was a continued series of large upright
stones, consisting of one hundred in number. These
stones were placed at the distance of twenty-
seven feet from each other, and usually measured
from fifteen to seventeen feet in height, and about
forty feet in circumference. Within the area of this
circle, the diameter of which was about 1100 feet,
were two double circles, each consisting of two
concentric circles, comprising the same number of
stones, and displaying the same manner of arrange-
ment. Botli of the exterior circles were about 466
feet in diameter, formed by thirty stones of similar
dimensions, and equally distant from each other, as
in the large enclosing circle. The inner ones con-
sisted of twelve stones of like proportions, and had
like intervening spaces ; and the diameter of their
area was 186 feet. In the interior of the southern,
oncentric circle, was an upright stone of larger
size than any of the others ; as it measured more
than twenty feet in height ; and within the northern,
one was a group of stones, which- has been variously
termed a nebla, niche, or cove. This was formed
of three stones, placed perpendicularly, and having
a large flat stone for an impost, whiah ipears to
have measured originally about seventeen feet by
thirty-five. Near this, on the ground, lay a large
flat stone, towards the east, or rather north-east, like
that called the hearth-stone at Stonehenge. There
weretwoentrances.into the grand circle, one from the
south-east, and the other from the south-west. These
were approached by two avenues, or double rows of
upright stones, extending a mile in length, and each
formed by one hundred stones, placed at nearly equal
intervals. One of these avenues, which stretched
itself in a south-east direction to Overton, had, at
its further extremity, a double concentric circle, of
smaller dimensions than those already mentioned ;
the stones being disposed at shorter intervals. The
outer division of this circle was formed of forty
stones, (most of which were about five feet high)
and its inner portion of eighteen stones of a larger
size. The diameter of the former was 120 feet, and
that of the latter forty-five. The other avenue,
which extended south-west to Beckhampton, had,
at its termination, only a single large, upright stone,
which was lately standing, and near which there are
several large barrows. On the northern side of this
avenue, at the fiftieth stone, was a group of three
stones, resembling the cove already described. Two
of these stones, yet remaining, measure sixteen feet
iiigh, sixteen feet broad, and three feet and a half
thick, and are vulgarly denominated the " Devil's
Coits."
In 1802, the stones of the great circle were re-
duced in number to eighteen, the inner circles had
nearly disappeared, and the Beckampton avenue
had no more than two stones remaining. Of the
south-western avenue ten or twelve stones are in
existence. Dr. Stukeley, regarding the plan of the
circles, within the rampart, considered Avebury
to have been a Druidical temple ; a supposition, ap-
parently contradicted by the great elevation of the
outward mound, and by its own low position. Mr.
Greethead suggested the idea of a national conven-
tion,
WILTSHIRE.
45-3
tion, for which its geographical position was suita-
ble; and wished to ascribe its formation to Prydain,
who reigned in Britain more than four centuries be-
fore the Christian epoch. — The church of Avebury,
consisting of a nave, two aisles, a chancel, and a
square tower, is of high antiquity, and unique in its
architecture. Its appearance has been recently
much injured by the removal of four plain and sim-
ple arches, which formerly separated the nave from
the aisles. The font, however, remains, an ancient
and curious exemplar of church ornament. This is
circular, enriched, round its upper compartment,with
a kind of Grecian scroll, and adorned with a range
of circular, intersecting arches, which rest upon
twenty-two pillars. The entrance to the church is
a semicircular arch, adorned with zig-zag mould-
ings, and resting on Saxon capitals. — In the vicinity
of Avebury are many barrows, cromlechs, and other
earth- works, either connected with the great temple,
or otherwise worthy of examination. Among these,
Silbury Hill is an immense tumulus, which rises
from a small valley, watered by the river Kennet.
Common belief declares it the sepulchre of some
British king : Mr. Greethead considers it consist-
ently with his theory, to be that of Prydain ; Stuke-
ley, in conformity with his, calls it that of Cynneda.
— The Grey- Wethers are numerous large stones,
lying in all directions, near Silbury Hill, and so called
from the resemblance which they bear to a flock of
sheep. Stukeley calls one group of these stones, a
Celtic temple.
ALDERTON.] — Alderton, situated on the borders
of Gloucestershire, was for more than three cen-
turies, the property and residence of the Gores,
whose mansion now belongs to a family, named
Hedges. In this parish are two trees, an elm and
an ash, growing apparently from the same root ;
and reported, by tradition, to have been two stakes
driven through the body of a suicide. — Alderton
gave birth to Thomas Gore, an antiquary and poli-
tical writer of the seventeenth century, and high
sheriff of the county in 1680, which office he filled
with the greatest integrity and moderation towards
the whigs, thereby incurring the animadversions of
his own party. He- died in 1684, and was buried
at Alderton.
. ALTON.] — Two small villages, near Draycot, bear
this appellation, being distinguished by the suffixes,
Priors, and Barnes.— At Stanton-Barnwood, was
born Nathaniel Stephens, a learned divine of the
17th century.
AMESBURY.] — Amesbury, orAmbresbury, situated
in the valley of the river Avon, 7£ miles N. from
Salisbury, was, it is said, so named from Ambrius,
a monk, who founded a monastery there, soon after
the conversion of the Britons to Christianity. In
the Saxon sera, it was sometimes the scene of eccle-
siastical synods and elections, and enjoyed a great
share of importance, and many privileges, even
after the Conquest. These have disappeared ; and
the town is now interesting only for its church, and
VOL. iv. — NO. 173.
its vicinity, to Stonehenge. The church, built of
stone and flint, consists of a nave, one aisle, a chan-
cel, transept, and a tower rising from the centre. In
the chancel, are eight tall, narrow, lancet windows ;
and three others of larger proportions, enriched with
mullions and tracery. The tower is raised on four
pointed arches. In the chancel is a small brass plate,
inscribed to Editha Matyn, who died in 1470. — •
Amesbury House, or Abbey, was built by Webb,
from designs of his father-in-law, Inigo Jones, on
the site of a nunnery, which is supposed to have
been founded by the beauteous and ambitious Elfri-
da, queen of Edgar. This foundation became the
retreat of many royal devotees, among whom are
enumerated Eleanor, queen of Henry III. and
Mary, daughter of Edward I. At the Dissolution,
the revenues were estimated at 495/. 15s. 2rf. ; and
the building was granted to Edward, Earl of Hert-
_ford. — A camp, oalled Vespasian's, occupies the
summit of an eminence near Amesbury, and con-
sists of a triangular area of 39 acres, defended by
.a ditch and vallum, and bounded on two sides by
the Avon. This may, have been occupied by the
Romans; but its construction and position indicate
a British origin.
ANSTY.] — Ansty, remarkable for the antiquity of
its church, was the seat of an ancient house of hos-
pitallers. This village gave birth to Dr. Richard
Zouch, an eminent civilian of the seventeenth cen-
tury, who became successively Chancellor of the
Diocese of Oxford, Principal of St. Alban's Hall,
and Judge of the High Court of Admiralty. — Cas-
tle Ditches, a large entrenchment, near the village
of Spelbury, consists of a treble ditch and ramparts,
in form an irregular triangle, the area of which !•
almost 24 acres.
ASHCOMBE.] — Ashcombe is a mansion of Lord
Arundel's, seated in a large amphitheatre of hill»,
finely wooded at their base, and at their summit
often spotted with herds of sheep or deer. The
only entrance to this romantic dale is from the north,
by a road which, though perfectly safe, falls preci-
pitately down a narrow ridge of one of the hills.
ASHLEY.] — Ashley, (northward from Long New-
ton,) formerly distinguished by a fair and a market,
is now remarkable only for the large mansion, which
was once the seat of the Georges. The church, an
ancient building with a square, embattled tower, is
interesting for its arches, some of which are round,
and others pointed, resting on slender, clustered
pillars, with massy capitals of foliage. The font
is large, round, and very rude in its workmanship.
ASHTON.] — Ashton, called Steeple Ashton, three
miles S, E. from Trowbridge, is remarkable for its
lofty and elegant church, which was built about
1480, though the chapels, and a part of the chancel
appear of a still earlier date. The tower, which i»
still high and handsome, was formerly surmounted
by a spire or steeple; whence the village had its
distinctive appellation. An inscription inform? u»
that, in 1670, the spire being in height 93 feet above
5 Y tb*
451
WILTSHIRE.
the tower, Vvas rent by a violent storm of thunder, j
and that, in the same year, being almost re-erected, it :
was, by a second storm, again destroyed. The I
roof of the nave is formed by intersecting arches, ,
which rest on canopied niches, adorned with whole
length figures, or (lowers ; and that of the aisles,
is profusely decorated with sculptures, and tracery
work ; whilst the windows display the splendid re-
mains of painted glass : the whole corresponding
•with the exterior, in style and effect. Plot informs
us, that there was dug up at Steeple Ashton, a pave-
ment, which he considered to he Roman, though
different, in materials and design, from those com-
monly regarded as such. The madrepore-stone is
found among the fossil productions of Ashton. —
Rowd Ashton, the seat of Richard Godolphin
Long, Esq. is situated in a large and well-wooded
park.
BEDWIN.] — Bedwin is the name of a market-town,
(51 miles S. W. by W. from Hungerford,) and a
•village, distinguished by the epithets Great and
Little. The former was supposed by Stukeley to
have been the Leucornogus of the Romans ; and it
certainly was a chief city of the Saxons, who built
a castle there. It is a borough by prescription,
sending two members to parliament, is governed
by a portreeve, and exercises many of its original
rights, although considerably reduced in population.
The church, a cruciform building of flints, with a
central tower, is ancient and curious in itself, and
for the monuments which it contains. The obtusely
pointed arches of the nave, ornamented with
zig-zag and billetted mouldings, rest on capitals,
richly adorned with flowers, grotesque heads, and
other figures. In the south transept, are two tombs
which commemorate Adam and Roger de Stocre,
lords, according to Inland, of " Stoke llaulle ther
by." The chancel contains the noble altar monu-
ment of Sir John Seymour, of Wolphall, father of
the Protector, Somerset, and other distinguished
persons. Near this tomb, are two brass plates, on
one of which is the figure of a lady, with her hands
folded, and the inscription : " Julia Seymour ;" the
other commemorates a son of Sir John Seymour. —
The manor of Bedwin, which once belonged to Gil-
bert, Earl of Clare, husband of Anna d'Acres, was
purchased by the late Earl of Aylesbury, This
place gave birth, in 1621, to Dr. Thomas Willis,
a learned physician, who wrote several works on
his art, was appointed physician in ordinary to
Charles II., and died of pleurisy in 1675. — On
Castle Hill is an entrenchment, in area two acres,
with some foundations, supposed to be those of a
•astle, founded by the Saxons. — Chisbury Castle
* William Petty, the son of a clothier, at Romsey, in Hamp-
shire, was educated at Oxford, and, after serving at sea, studied
medicine on the continent. In 1649, he was admitted M. 1).,
made Deputy Professor of Anatomy, and elected fellow of
Brazen-nose tollege, at Oxford. Shortly after, he was ap-
pointed Lecturer on Music, in Gresham College; and, in 1659,
is an entrenchment more than 15 acres in extent,
supposed to have been begun by the Britons, and
sometime occupied by the Romans. — The neigh-
bouring village of Little Bedwin has a church built
of Hints, in the Anglo-Norman style of architecture,
with a nave, aisles, chancel, and tower.
BEMERTON.J — Bemerton, midway between Salis-
bury and Wilton, deserves notice for having beea
the residence of several men of genius and cele-
brity : Bishop Curie ; George, commonly called the
Divine Herbert, born in 1593, the author of two
recently republished poems, " The Temple," and
" A Priest to the Temple" ; and John Norris, a
native of Albourne ; were rectors of this parish.
BIDSTON.] — Bidston church contains a monument
to Edmund Smith, A. M. a poet of some repute,
who translated Longiuus, wrote several odes, and
a tragedy, called " Phaedra and Hyppolitus," and
died in 1709.
BISHOPSTONE.] — Bishopstone Church, (four miles
N. W. from Salisbury) contains two stone coffins,
reputed to be those of two bishops, and to have
given name to the village. — Tony Stratford is a
small village annexed, formerly the property of the
De West's family.
BISHOPSTROW.[— Bishopstrow is a little village,
at which a great number of small Roman brass
coins were found about twenty years since. Nearly
the whole, measuring in quantity a Winchester
bushel, were deposited in the collection of Mr.
Cunnington.
BOWOOD.] — Bowood, situated in a rich and exten-
sive demesne, four miles from Chippenham, is the
seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne. The park con-
sists of nine distinct valleys, in one of which a
magnificent lake spreads its broad bosom to the
heavens ; and, on an elevated site, stands the man-
sion, consisting of three parts, built at different
times, and distinct in features. The original build-
ing was a design of the Adams', in the style of an
Italian villa ; to which the first Marquis added a
noble wing, the second part; the other is a series
of private apartments. The principal front has a
large portico, consisting of Doric pillars, an enta-
blature, and pediment, on which are the family
arms in bold relief. Among the pictures, are a
landscape, by Guinsborough ; an old man, by Piom-
bo ; some pieces of Rubens, Guerchino, Albano,
&c., and a portrait of Sir William Petty*, the
first of his family who attained opulence and consi-
deration. The only building, contained in the
grounds, is a mausoleum, erected for himself by
John, Earl ofShelburne, whom an inscription com-
memorates as a model of perfection in every virtue
physician-general to the army, in which capacity he visited
Ireland, of which he published a " Political Survey." He was
a member of Richard Cromwell's parliament, and, at the Re-
storation was knighted. Sir William was the author of a trea-
tise on " Political Arithmetic," and several mechanical inven-
tiont, and died in 1687, aged 64.
thai
WILTSHIRE.
435
that can adorn humanity. — Bowood, which once
constituted part of the royal forest of Pewisham,
was granted, by Charles II. to Sir Orlando Bridg-
inan, Bart, from whose creditors it was purchased
by John, Earl of Shelburne, father of William, the
first Marquis of Lansdovvne*, whose son, the pre-
sent Marquis, is the actual proprietor.
Box.] — Box, a small village, near the western
confines of the county, is situated in a picturesque
and fertile valley, watered' by a streamlet, and
intersecteil by the London road. The under-stratum
of the soil, is an extensive bed of freestone, known
by the name of Bath stone, from the circumstance
of the city of Bath having been improved with
buildings, constructed with it. Near Box, are two
mineral springs, denominated Middle-Hill-Spa, over
which, a physician, a few years since, erected a
pump-room, and built a lodging-house, which, on
the failure of his scheme, was let as a private dwell-
ing. The water of one is chalybeate ; the other,
which bears a strong affinity to the Harrowgate water,
is clear and sparkling, and contains a very large pro-
portion of sulphur and carbonic acid. — On Cheney-
Court Farm, near this place, were dug up, in 1813,
a variety of Roman antiquities, indicative of the
former existence of a villa on that spot.
BOYTON.] — Boyton Church contains a circular,
or Catherine-wheel window. The manor is the pro-
perty of Aylmer Bourke Lambert, Esq. who inhabits
the mansion.
BRADENSTOKE PRIORY.] — This monastic establish-
ment, a few miles from Calne, sometimes called
Clack Priory, was founded about 1142, by Walter
de Eureux, who filled it with monks of the Augus-
tine order, and assumed their habit. The house,
though somewhat modernized by repairs, retains
the general features of antiquity.
BRADFORD.] — Bradford, situated near the Avon,
on the abrupt declivity of a hill, 3{ miles N. W.
from Salisbury, owes its name to the broad ford of
the river. The town is ancient, and, having been
the scene of several military events in the Saxon
ages, besides having had a monastery which was
destroyed by the Danes, is often mentioned in the
sera of our history anterior to the Conquest. Of
its subsequent history, little is known, except that
it once deputed two members to parliament. Brad-
ford consists of two parts, separated by the river,
in both of which the streets are narrow^ and the
houses constructed of stone. A bridge of nine
arches, over the Avon, is picturesque in the extreme,
being ancient, and having on one of its piers a
small building, with a pyramidal roof, supposed to
have been a chapel, the period of whose foundation,
' This nobleman, born in Dublin, in May 1737, was edu-
cated at Christ Chiirch, Oxford ; and, after serving in Flanders,
was made ui<!e-il*--camp to the King. In 1763, he was appointed
first lord comiiiissiom-r of the Board of Trade and Plantations;
in 1766, principal secretary of state for the southern depart-
ment ; and, afterwards, for foreign affairs. On his resignation
in 17S3, be retired from public life, but came forward once
as of that of the bridge, is totally unknown. Brad-
ford has a charity-school for sixty boys ; and two
alms-houses, one of which was founded by John
Hall, Esq. a native of this place, and the last of
his family, who had resided here from the time of
Edward I. The church, built of stone, consists
of a nave, north aisle, chancel, and chapel, with a
tower and small steeple at the west end. Several
monumental tombs decorate the interior, among
which the most remarkable are, an old tomb with
the recumbent figure of an armed knight ; a niche,
containing the efligies of a lady, much mutilated ;
and a large monument, with a whole length figure
in white marble of a person named Charles Steward.
Several large, and ancient mansions are in the vici-
nity of the town, mostly deserted. The manufac-
ture of broad cloths is carried on to a large extent,
and trade receives great facilities from the Kennet
and Avon Canal, which here crosses the Avnn ;>t
sevprnl points ; its snjueduct bridges, combining with
the wooded eminences on its banks, form some of
the most pleasing scenes imaginable.
BRADON FOREST.] — This tract of country, to the
S. and S. E. of Minte, now almost denuded of trees,
retains its appellation of Bradon Wood, or Forest ;
though much of it is cultivated. On Charlton Com-
mon, which is comprehended within its limits, is
Bradon Pond, the largest sheet of stagnant water
in the county : being about three quarters of a mile
long, and nearly half a mile broad.
BRATTON CASTLE.] — Bratton Castle, a strong
entrenchment on a hill, near Eddington, is of irre-
gular form, defended by ramparts, and a vallum,
1540 yards in circuit. The height of the ramparts,
in some places, is thirty-six feet, and the whole area,
within the ditch, is twenty-three acres. On one side
of the hill, is the figure of a white horse, one hun-
dred feet high, and as many long, supposed, by
Gough, to be a memorial of the battle of Ethandun;
but denied to be such, by Wise, who asserts that it
was made, about a century ago, by the inhabitants of
Westbury. The battle of Ethandun, well known to
have been fought by Alfred, and to have restored
him to his authority, in 878, is stated by Camden,
Gibson, and Gough, to have occurred at Edding-
ton ; and Bratton Castle, according to them, is the
fortress to which the discomfited Danes retired.
There are many opinions on the subject ; but this
seems the most tenable. Some remove the scene to-
Yatton in North Wiltshire ; others to Heddington,
and suppose Oldborough Castle to be the Danish
fort ; whilst Lysons, on the authority of Dr. Beke,
fixes it at Heddington in Berkshire.
BREMHILL.] — Bremhill, (two miles N. W. from
more, on the breaking out of the French Revolution, and con-
tinued to deprecate interference in the affairs of that momentous
period, till his death in May, 1805. The character of Lord
Lansdowne has been variously estimated ; for whilst some eu-
logize him, as " the first statesman in Europe," others describe
him, as better fitted fora " secondary department." He pos-
sessed literary talent, and patronized it in others.
Calue)
456
WILTSHIRE.
Calne) which occupies, as its name indicates, the
summit of eminence, has a plain but neat church,
consisting of a nave, chancel, and two side aisles.
It contains several monuments, and an old stone
font ; and, in the church-yard, is a stone cross, with
a single shaft, similar to another in the centre of
<he village. The present incumbent of the living is
the Rev. W. L. Bowles, the truly elegant author of
the " Spirit of Discovery," and other poems.
BRICKWORTH.] — Brickworth has long been the
seat of the Eyre family, of which John Maurice
Eyre, Esq. is the representative. Several persons
of this name have distinguished themselves, at the
bar and in the church, among whom, was the Rev.
William Eyre, a strong advocate for the doctrine of
free-justification, against Baxter, and others.
BRITFORD.] — In Britford Church, two miles S. E.
from Salisbury, is a handsome cenotaph, inscribed
to James, Earl of Radnor ; and an altar-tomb,
whicn, Dy me style of the arch and armorial bear-
ings, seems likely to have belonged to the Stafford
family, by whom the manor was once held. Aubrey
informs us, that there was discovered at this place,
in 1663, a grotto, paved with Mosaic work, some
of which was in his own possession.
BROAD-CHALK.] — Broad-Chalk, situated in a val-
ley, S. E. of Chiselbary Camp, is rich in remains
of antiquity. A field, called Bury Orchard, in area
nearly six acres, is surrounded by a bank of great
breadth ; and, being conveniently situated, has been
supposed an encampment of the Romans. A small
tumulus, which preserves the appellation of Gawen's
Barrow, is commonly supposed to have been the
sepulchre of a Gawen, before the complete esta-
blishment of Christianity. This village was the
birth-place of John Bekinsau, an author of some
eminence, and the friend of Leland.*
BROKENBORODGH.] — Brokenborough, two miles
N. W. from Malmsbury, and connected with that
place by a causeway, was the country residence of
a Saxon monarch ; and the site of a Roman villa,
of which some remains, as a tesselated pavement,
and several foundations, have been discovered.
BROMHAM.] — Bromham, a small village, near
Devizes, has been the property of the Bayntons,
since the reign of Henry V[. The hall has been
long deserted, and some of the materials removed.
The church, a large structure, consisting of a
chancel and two aisles, is remarkable chiefly, for a
chapel, or chantry appended to the south-east side ;
the exterior decorations of which are roses, chains,
various quarterings of arms, and figures of angels,
whilst the inside is embellished with gilt ornaments
on a blue ground, and appears to have been hung
round with armour and ensigns, of which only a
few pieces remain. An ancient tomb, placed beneath
a canopy, at one of the angles, is inlaid with six j
* He distinguished himself at New College, Oxford, where
brazen effigies, and inscribed to the memory of Sir
Edward Baynton, his two wives, and three children,
with the date 1574. A mural monument also com-
memorates Lade Anne Wilmot, daughter and co-
heiress of John, Earl of Rochester. In the chancel,
beneath a canopy, is a monument, inlaid with one
figure of a female, and inscribed to the memory of
several Bayntons ; and on the floor is a brazen
figure, in armour, representing Sir John Baynton,
who died in the year 1616. On a large tomb of
Purbeck marble reposes the effigies of One of the
Lords Beauchamp, with a dog at the feet, but no
inscription. — George Webbe, Bishop of Limerick,
during the rebellion in Ireland, of 1641, when he
fell a victim to a prison-fever, was a native of Brom-
ham, and accounted one of the best preachers of his
age.— Spye Park, the seat of Sir Andrew Baynton
Rolt, Bart, is situated two miles from Bromliam,
on the north. The house, situated on high ground,
is an old structure fitted up in a modern style, and has
been recently despoiled of much of the fine wooded
scenery which once surrounded it. During the reign
of diaries If. it was the seat of the witty Earl of
Rochester, too well known, to require notice here.
BBOXMORE.] — Broxmore,situated near the borders
of Hampshire, is the seat of Robert Bristow, Esq.,
and is remarkable for its internal elegance, and the
picturesque richness and variety of the scenery which
surrounds, it.
BULFORD.] — At Bulford, a village in the vale of
Avon, northward from Amesbury two miles, are two
immense stones, similar to those at Stonehenge :
but seemingly unconnected with that monument, or
the temple at Avebury. At the distance of a mile
is a third stone.
CALNE.] — Calne, a market-town and borough by
prescription, 30 miles N. N. W. from Salisbury,
though a place of high antiquity, is remarkable for
no historical event of importance, except an acci-
dent which occurred, on the convocation of a synod,
by Edward the Martyr, in 977, when the beams of
a hall, giving way, precipitated all the members,
except the president Dunstan, into the room beneath,
with fatal consequences to several. — The corporate
body consists of twenty-four capital burgesses, who
elect two constables from their number annually ;
and these latter are the returning officers, whilst the
elective franchise belongs to the burgesses only. —
The trade of the place, arising from a manufacture
of broad cloths and kerseymeres, is facilitated by a
branch of the Wiltshire and Berkshire canal. The
church, an ancient structure, consisting of a nave,
chancel, and two aisles, with a square tower nearly
one hundred feet high, is adorned, without, with
foliated pinnacles, and, internally, the roof is beau-
tified with richly carved wood-work. The pillars
and door-ways are alike interesting for their curious
modating character of his religious principles. He aposta-
te was educated, by his proficiency in Greek. Like the ! tized under Henry VIII., returned tothe Catholic Communion
renowned " Vicar of Bray," he is celebrated for the accom- I under Mary, and under Elizabeth fell into deserved contempt.
and
WILTSHIRE.
457
and varied mouldings. In the cemetery is a large
monument in honour of Investo Bowsell, commonly
known by the title of King of the Gypsies. Calne,
lately much improved by wholesome regulations for
cleanliness, &c. contains a Town Hall and a Free-
School, well endowed by John Bentley, Esq. for
thirty boys, seven of whom are qualified to become
exhibitioners at Queen's College, Oxford.
CALSTON.] — Near Calston, which was the property
of the Zouches and the Wellingtons, successively,
is Blachland House, the mansion ot John Mere-
weather, Esq. situated on a portion of Commcrford
Common. The village, from which this tract derives
its name, is conjectured by Gibson to be the Kiners-
ford of Florence of Worcester, at which place a
bloody battle was fought between the Mercians
under jEthelmund, and the Wiltshire men. under
Wurstan. — Wetham, a large commodious mansion,
three miles from Calne, is an ancient seat of the
Money family.
CANNINGS.] — All-Cannings Church (adjoining
Stanton Barnard) contains several monuments,
worthy of notice ; among which is a marble tomb to
the memory of John Nicholas, Esq., and a stately
erection in honour of Sir John Ernele, rector of
this parish, his lady, and their son, the respective
dates of whose deaths are, 1731, 1729, and 1733.
— At Bishop's Cannings, the church, resembling
Salisbury Cathedral, in its style of architecture, was
probably rebuilt at the same time. The interior,
however, particularly the nave, supported by round
pillars with sculptured capitals, seems to lay claim
to higher antiquity. A handsome chapel at the east
end, now converted into a chancel, is the burial
place of the Erneles, to one of whom, Michael
Ernele, Esq. of Burton, there is a large marble
monument, with an inscription, dated 1571.
CASTLE COMBE.] — Castle Combe, a considerable
village, situated on the Box, six miles N. W. from
Chippenham, is celebrated for having been the site
of the baronial residence of the Dunstanvilles. It
is even said that it had a castle as early as the 9th
century ; but this statement, though seemingly coun-
tenanced by the remains of a fosse and ramparts,
which have the aspect of early castrametalion, is not
supported by the authority of any ancient writer.
After the death of the last Dunstanville, in I2W), it
suffered several alienations by marriage or purchase,
until vested in the person of Sir Stephen le Scrope,
son of Lord Scrope, of Bolton, in Yorkshire, and
the lineal ancestor of the present proprietor. This
gentleman is clearly proved, by a variety of docu-
ments, but chiefly by an indenture, executed in 1315,
to be the rightful heir to the barony of Bolton, the
claimants to which were supposed to have become
extinct, in 1628. The castle is conjectured to have
been dismantled about 1400 ; but the remains of its
embankments, visible on a hill northward from the
village, still sufficiently mark its former strength
and importance. The present mansion is situated
in the valley, on the bauks of the Box, amid banging
VOL. iv. — NO. 174.
woods of oak and wnlont trees. — The church of
Castle Combe, composed of a nave, a chancel, two
aisles, and a square tower, is ancient, and displays
specimens of decoration, truly tasteful for the age
when they may be supposed to have been produced.
The arch, which separates the nave from the chancel,
is in the pointed style, adorned with running foliage,
and with statues in niches ; the font, of an octagonal
figure, rests upon several small clustered columns ;
and an ancient mural tomb, in the north wall, bears
the effigies of a knight, in chain armour, with various
figures in niches, but no inscription. Over the com-
munion-table is a monument, or cenotaph, with an
inscription which sets forth the excellent qualities of
many of the Scrope family, whose ashes, it affirms,
had, for several centuries, been deposited in that
church without suitable memorial.
COMPTON CHAMBERLAYNE.] — The mansion of
Compton Chamberlayne, now the residence of John.
Hungerford Penruddocke, Esq. was once that of his
gallant ancestor, Colonel Peuruddocke, celebrated
for his unsuccessful attempt to restore Charles II., in
1655. His portrait, with those of some of his asso-
ciates and family, decorated one of the apartments,
which is lined with oaken wainscot.
CHERILL.] — Cherill, or Kirriel, a village, situated
southward from Compton Basset, was the property
of the Beauchamps, from the reign of Edward I.,
till forfeited by King-maker Warwick to Edward IV.;
since which time, it has continued annexed to the
crown, and has been assigned at different times as
part of the revenues of the Princes of Wales.
CHUTE.] — Chute Park, eastward from the village,
the seat of the Meadows family, is remarkable
for its vicinity to the Roman road, which passes
through its precincts, in a bold and perfect form.
CHILMARK.] — Chilmark, a small village, remark-
able for the excellence of its quarries of freestone,
gave birth, in the 13th century, to John de Chil-
macke, a celebrated.mathematician and philosophical
writer, who was accounted the Archimedes of his
age.
C HILTON Fotiox.] — Chilton Foliot, one mile
N. W. from Hungerford, derived the latter part of
its appellation from the Folio ts, a family to whom
the manor belonged soon after the Conquest. After
having changed its proprietors many times, it was
at length sold to Thomas Sutton, Esq. who be-
queathed it to the endowment of his noble founda-
tion, the Charter House, London. In the church,
which is small, is the ancient effigies of a knight,
cross-legged, and in chain-armour ; and a slab to
the memory of Bulstrode Whitelock, who died in
1737, and to whom belonged Chilton Lodge, at
present the property of John Pearse, Esq. Chilton
House is the seat of Fulwar Craven, Esq.
CHIPPENHAM.] — Chippenham, (33 miles N. W
by N. from Salisbury) now a large borough and
market- town, through which the Bath road passed
at the distance of fourteen miles from that city, as
a place of great antiquity, and was always charac-
§ z terizod
458
WILTSHIRE.
tcrized by ancient writers as a royal residence. In
Alfred's reign, the Danes occupied Cbippenham as
their head- quarters more than once. Before the
reign of Mary, it was a borough by prescription ;
but that princess incorporated it by a charter (which
was renewed by James II.) and made the municipal
body to consist of a bailiff and twelve burgesses. It
had occasionally sent representatives to parliament,
from the reign of Edward 1. till that of Henry VJ.
since which time the returns have been regular.
The town, well-built and clean, has, near its centre,
a Town Hall ; and over the river Avon, a handsome
freestone bridge of twenty-one arches. The church,
a large and antique structure, consisting of a nave,
a south aisle, a chancel, and a chapel, with a tower
and spire, appears to be the work of different ages,
oif which the earliest may have been the 12th cen-
tury. The monuments, chiefly of the Hungerfords
and the Bayntons, are interesting only for their
antiquity. One only is worthy of notice, for its
oddity of costume, that of Sir Gilbert Pryu, Knt.
who died in 1627. It is a mural tomb, with two
adult figures kneeling at an altar, attended by seven
children, two boys and five girls, in the same atti-
tude. Beneath, are two brasses, on one of which
is a long inscription, and on the other the por-
traitures of a man and a -woman, holding in their
hands a branch from the tree of life, with this device :
Eche man's a plant and every tree
Like man is subject to mortalitie.
There is more of it, but this is a fair specimen of
the whole, which consists of withered branches, and
moral laws. — The Methodists, the Baptist^, and the
Independents, have each a meeting-house here ; and
there is a charity-school, for the gratuitous instruc-
tion of poor boys in reading, writing, and common
arithmetic. The trade of the town, which derives
important facilities from its situation on the metro-
politan road, arises principally from its manufacture
of woollens', particularly fine broad cloths and ker-
seymeres. Among the celebrated natives of Chip-
penham, was Dr. John Scott, the son of a grazier,
prebend of St. Paul's, rector of St. Giles's in the
Fields, and a furious opponent»to the attempts for
the restoration of the Catholic religion, in the reign
of James II. In 1474, the sum of eight pounds
per annum was bequeathed by Maud Heath, for the
formation, and perpetual repair, of a paved foot-
way four miles in length, which still exists, and is
marked with upright stones, which bear inscriptions :
one, at Chippenham Clift,
Hither Extemleth Maud Heath's Gift,
For where 1 stand is Chippenham Clift.
Erected in 1698, and given in 1474.
Of two mineral springs in the neighbourhood of
Chippenham, one was covered some years since
with a small building of freestone, by a Welch
judge, and obtained a high degree of celebrity ; but
it is now deserted, except by the poor, who assert its
efficacy. Ivy House, westward from the town, is
the scat of Matthew Humphreys, Esq.
| CHRISTIAN - MALFORD.] — Christian, or Christ-
Malford, is a large, populous, and respectable, but
irregularly built village, formerly the seat of a branch
of the Herbert family, whose mansion remains. At
Foxham, which adjoins Malford, was Cadnam House,
an ancient seat of the Hungerfords.
CHESESBURY.] — Near Chesenbury, where is a
mansion of the Grovefamily, denominated the Priory,
is an ancient earth-work, of a circular figure, sur-
rounded by a rampart, sixteen feet high, and five
hundred and ninety-five yards in length, and de-
fended by a detached outwork of unusual size.
CLARENDON.] — Clarendon (two miles S. E. from
Salisburv) best known for a council held there in
1164, when the famous " Constitutions" were passed,
which limited the authority of the church, was a
residence of many of the early English monarchs ;
but, in the time of Henry III. it seems to have
attained the zenith of its prosperity, as that king
not only enlarged and improved the buildings, but
held his court oftener, and with greater splendour,
there than any of his predecessors. During the
reign of Edward II. Clarendon was disafforested,
and his successor retired thither with his prisoners,
the kings of France and Scotland, from a plague
which raged violently in the metropolis and other
large towns. Charles II. granted the demesne to
the Earl of Albemarle, whose son bequeathed it to
the Earl of Bath, and from that nobleman's heirs
it was purchased by B. Bathurst, Esq. whose de-
scendants continue to enjoy it. The palace, now in
ruins, once occupied a large space, on an eminence,
which, was surrounded by a large fosse and vallum,
and overlooked on one side a narrow vale. Of the
ruins, which are composed of flints, strongly cement-
ed, one lofty blanb-wall remains, like the end of some
large room ; and other different masses are scattered
widely apart over an. area of sixty or seventy acres,
enclosed by the ditch. Clarendon Lodge, the seat
of F. H. Bathurst, Esq. stands at the distance of a
mile from these ruins, surrounded by extensive and
well wooded pleasure grounds, which are adorned
by an expansive lake. — Ivy Church, founded by
Henry II. as a monastery for rtligieux of the order
of St. Augustine, stands at the western end of the
forest, and is at present the seat of Henry Hens-
man, Esq.
CLATFORD.] — At Clatford, a small hamlet on the
Kennet, a priory was founded, soon after the Con-
quest, by Roger de Mortimer. In a valley, called
Clatford Bottom, is a cromlech, formed of two upright
stones, supporting a vast flat one, as an impost.
CODFORD.] — Codford is the name of two villages
on the banks of the Wily, distinguished by the suf-
fixes, St. Peter, and St. Mary ; near the latter of
which, on an eminence, is an earth-work, called
Ogbury-Camp ; but denied to have been of military
origin, by nicely-judging antiquaries, who assert
that it was dedicated to some religious or juridical
ceremonies of the Britons.
Yarnhury-Camp, situated near the old road from
Salisbury
WILTSHIRE.
459
Salisbury to Bath, occupies an elevated and com-
manding site, and is enclosed by a double ditch and
vallum. The inner rampart rises to the height of
fifty-two feet, and the outer ditch is nearly a mile
in circuit. The entrances are six, and the whole
area twenty-eight acres and a half. Within the
area, several slight excavations mark the site of
ancient residence, and display, when dug up, many
vestiges of British and Roman antiquity.
COLLINGBOURNE.] — Colliiigbourue is the name of
two villages in the valley of the Bourne, distinguish-
ed by the additions, Ducis and Kingston. At the
latter place was born John Norris, a divine and
philosopher of the 17th century, a zealous follower
of the opinions of Malbranche, and the author of
many practical as well as metaphysical works on
morals and religion.
COMPTON BASSET.] — Compton Basset, like many
other places in the neighbourhood, received the
latter part of its name from -the Bassets, to whom
it anciently belonged. Compton House occupies a
very lofty site, and contains, among other valuable
pictures, a fine old portrait of the Countess of
Richmond, and a battle-piece of Burgognone.
COBSHAM.] — Corsham, called also Corsham-Regis,
five miles S. W. from Chippenham, was formerly a
market-town ; and, as Camden informs us, a royal
residence. The houses, all built of stone, form one
long street, near the centre of which is a market or
court-house of modern erection. The church, a
large edifice, consisting of a nave, chancel, three
aisles, and a chapel, with a tower and spire rising
from the centre, is sculptured in many parts with
the initials E. M. H. and the date 1631, and con-
tains several monuments. The vicar possesses ex-
traordinary privileges, having episcopal jurisdiction
within the parish. Most of the ancient buildings at
Corsham were removed during the last Qeutury. Of
these the principal were a gaol, an old court-house,
and a market cross. The hospital, founded by Lady
Margaret Hungerford, in 1668, for six poor aged
women, is under the government of a master, who
occupies an adjoining lodge, and is appointed by
the Earl of Radnor. — Corsham is a separate juris-
diction of itself, the bailiff of the manor being vested
with the powers of sheriff and coroner, being chosen
by, and from the number of, the tenants themselves,
and exercising his authority in conformity to the
customs and laws of the manor. Corsham gave
birth to Sir Richard Blackmore, * a well-known
i •
* He was educated at Westminster School and Edmund
Hall, Oxford ; after which he went abroad and took his degree
of M. D. at Padua. At his return he was chosen fellow of the
College of Physicians. He died in 1729. His poem on
the Creation is deserving of great praise.
f Sir Paul Methnen, the tasteful collector of these valuable
works, descended from a noble family, who had been established
in Perthshire since .the Conquest, was ihe son of John Methuen,
Esq. Chancellor of Ireland, and Ambassador to the court of
Lisbon, where he died in 1706. Sir Paul, who may be ranked
among the most distinguished characters of his age, was born
in 1672 ; and was, at different times ambassador to the courts
poet, and a physician of some eminence, in which
i latter capacity, he served King William III., by
whom he was knighted. — Corsham House, the seat
and property of Paul Cobb Methuen, Esq. adjoins
the north-east end of the town. Being the reposi-
tory of a large collection of very valuable pictures,
it is peculiarly interesting to the lovers and pro-
fessors of the fine arts. The father of the present
proprietor, Paul Methuen, Esq. purchased it in
1747, and began his collection, which soon became
much too extensive for the receptacle ; but the pre-
sent owner has so enlarged and improved the man-
sion, that it is no longer unworthy of the treasures
which it contains. Corsham House is open for
public inspection on Tuesdays and Fridays, when
the apartments, successively shewn, are the grand
hall, the state dressing-room, the state bed-chamber,
the cabinet-room, the picture-gallery, the music-
room, the saloon, the drawing-room, and the dining-
room. The pictures, all of which it is impossible to
particularize, are by the first masters : from the
number of whom we select the names of Poussin,
Carlo Dolci, Titian, Claude, Murillo, Paul Vero-
nese, Rembrandt, Vandyck, (iiiido", S. Rosa, Rubens,
M. Angelo, Giorgione, Velasquez, A. Carracci, Hol-
bein, and Sir Peter Lely.f
COIILSTON.] — At Coulston is a handsome seat, the
property of Mrs. Long. This village was the birth-
place of Mrs. Delaney, J whose father, Bernard
Granville, Esq. was the brother of Lord Lansdowne.
— Heywood-House, built by Lord Ley, in the reign
of James I. is a neat mansion, the seat of Abraham
Ludlow, Esq.
CRTCKLADE.]' — Cricklade, (44-J- miles N..by W.
from Salisbury) situated on the Isis, which rises at
a short distance from the town, lays claim to a
remoteness of origin, which few writers allow it to
possess. It appears probable that it was a Roman
station; and in the tenth century it was the scene
of some military events. It is a borough by pre-
scription, governed by a. bailiff, who is chosen
annually ; and it returns two members to the nati-
onal council, who are at present chosen by the
freeholders of five hundreds : Cricklade, Higliworth,
Staple, Kingsbridge, and Malmsbury. The lord-
ship was purchased in 1811, from the Earl of Caer-
narvon, by Joseph Pitt, Esq. The town consists
chiefly of one long street, in the centre of which is
situated the court-house, 'supported by ten pillars.
Of the two churches ; one, denominated St. Sarnp-
of Vienna, Morocco, Lisbon, Madrid, and Sardinia. Be
likewise filled some of the first offices in administration ;. and,
in 1725, was created a Knight of the_ Bath. He died,. April 1 1,
1757, and was interred, near Ms father, in Westminster Abbey.
J This lady married young, and became a widow at the age
of 24; she entered the wedded state a second time at the age
of 43, with Dr Delaney, the friend of Swift, who died in
his 68th year, after which she lived twenty years in the full
possession of her faculties, and invented, at the age of TO, the
art of p;iper Mosaic, in which she executed nearly 1000 flowers
and flowering shrubs.
son's
400
WILTSHIRE.
son's, is large, ancient, and cruciform, with a tower,
rising from the centre, which rests upon four pointed j
arches ; and one monument to Richard Jennor, Esq.
who founded the town free-school, and was other-
wise a benefactor to the county. The other church,
called St. Mary's, is also old, but more simple, with
an ivy-clad tower, and in the cemetery a stone
cross. The inferior is divided into a nave, a chan-
cel, and two aisles, of which the two former are i
separated by a semicircular arch, with zigzag mould-
ings. In the 12th century, Cricklade gave birth
to a writer of eminence in the person of Robert
Canutus, who was educated at Oxford, became
chief of the canons of St. Frideswide in that city,
and wrote some comments on the old and new Tes-
tament, with a collection from Pliny's Natural His-
tory, under the title of " The Garland."
GRUDWELL.] — Crudwell, four miles north from
Malmsbury, belongs to the 1'amily of Lucas, of whom
John, Lord Lucas, having distinguished himself in
the reyal cause, during the civil wars of Charles I.
was rewarded, in the person of his daughter, with
the barony of Crudwell, to be enjoyed by her heirs,
male or female. The present baroness is Lady Anna-
bella Hume Campbell, widow of Lord Hume, of
Berwick. The church, which is composed of a nave,
.chancel, two aisles, and a low square tower, sur-
mounted by angular pinnacles, is large and hand-
some; but of different dates of erection, from the
12th century, downwards. Some of the windows
contain a little stained glass ; and several of the
seats are adorned with remains of rich carved work ;
but the monumental erections are few and uninterest-
ing. The village has a free-school, endowed by John,
Lord Lucas. — Escot, or East Court, is a tything in
this parish, the whole of which is the property of
Joseph Pitt, Esq. Eastcourt House is a respectable
old mansion ; and the church, composed of a nave,
chancel, and two aisles, with a square tower, is
also of considerable antiquity. It contains several
monuments of the Earle family, formerly seated
here.
DANTSEY.] — Dantsey, five miles S.E. from Malms-
bury, belonged in the reign of Henry II. to a family of
the same name ; and, after the Revolution, to Charles
Mordaunt, the chivalrous Earl of Peterborough.
It is of considerable extent, but the houses are few,
and so scattered, that, properly speaking, there is no
Tillage. The church, an ancient structure, consist-
ing of a nave, a chancel, and two aisles, is remark-
able chiefly for having been the burial place of the
Danvers family, who once held the manor. The
tomb of Sir John Danvers is a large marble monu-
ment, bearing the date 1525, and an imperfect
inscription ; and a superb marble monument com-
memorates Henry Danvers, Earl of Danby, who
was knighted by Henry IV. of France, served with
* This nobleman, perceiving that the University of Oxford
was destitute of the opportunities requisite for the study of
botany, purchased a tract of ground, which lie enclosed with
honour in the armies of Elizabeth and James, and
in the council of Charles I., and died, " full of
honours, wounds, and days," in 1613.*
DEVIZES.] — Devizes, or as it has been sometimes
written, the Vies (23 £ miles N. W. by N. from Salis-
bury, and 88| W.byS. from London) is a large
borough and market-town, situated near the centre
of the county, of which it is the secondary capital.
There is much dispute respecting its origin : some
contending that it is British, some Roman, and
others Saxon. However it is not mentioned at all
in Domesday ; which suggests a very justifiable pre-
sumption, that it did not then exist. The castle,
which is mentioned hy old writers, as an extensive
and magnificent edifice, was built in the reign of
Henry I. by Roger, the celebrated Bishop of Salis-
bury, from whom it was attempted to be wrested
by Stephen. It was ruinous in the days of Leland,
who describes it as " a goodlye buildyng," of which
" the keepe or dungeon set upon a hill, cast by hand,
was a peece of worke of an incredible coste." It i»
now entirely demolished, and its site converted into
pleasure grounds, the property of Willinra Salmon,
Esq. Three events of some importance in the
national history are connected with that of Devizes,
and its castle : the first was the attempt of Stephen,
who owed his crown to Roger, to obtain possession
of the strong holds of that prelate. The castle was
defended with persevering courage and obstinacy,
by Nigel, the Bishop of Ely, and nephew of Roger,
who on the feint of the king to hang his son, should
Ely persist in his contumacy, bound himself by a
vow to abstain from food till the castle was surren-
dered, a period of three days, which, combining with
the grief of his mind for the loss of his favourite
fortress, of his dignity and his treasures, brought
on his death a few months afterwards. The second
occurrence happened three years after, when the
castle was seized by one Hubert, or Herbert, a
young man of profligate character, who declared
at first for the Empress, but, refusing to admit
her, was taken by stratagem, hung in chains, and
hanged as a traitor. The third incident did not
happen till a century had elapsed ; when, in 1233,
Hubert de Burgh, prime minister to Henry III.
being imprisoned here, contrived his escape to the
high altar of the parish church without the castle,
whence he was forced by his guards : an impiety
which roused the interference of Robert, Bishop de
Salisbury, who excommunicated the guards, and
remonstrated with the king. Hubert was re-con-
veyed to the church, and attempted to be starved by
the king's orders ; but he effected his escape, was
conducted in safely to Wales, and continued to re-
side there during the remainer of his life. — It is
doubtful at what period the castle was dismantled,
probably towards the close of the reign of Edward 1.
a wall, adorned with a rusticated gateway, and gave it to the
University for a Botanic Garden.
WILTSHIRE.
461
«s we read of no governor, subsequently to the year
1321 ; in Leycester's " Civil Warres of England,"
however, we find that " the town and castle of
Devizes were taken, on the 22d of September," in
1645. — The vicinity of the town was the scene of
the most signal defeat, sustained by the parliament
during the whole course of the war. The Marquis
of Hertford and Prince Maurice, having arrived at
Devizes, after their defeat at Lansdown, were be-
sieged by Sir William Waller, who captured a con-
voy, with a supply of powder, and had already begun
to discuss terras of capitulation, when he was com-
pelled to withdraw his troops, to oppose Lord Wil-
mot, who was approaching with 1500 horse, and
two pieces of artillery. He stationed his troops on
Round-a-way Hill, which he descended with impe-
tuosity, on the arrival of Lord Wilmot, attacking
with all the confidence of victory ; but his calcula-
tions were soon proved to be erroneous, for his
hitherto triumphant horse were overthrown and dis-
persed, and his artillery taken, and turned upon his
infantry ; who, being attacked by the troops from
Devizes, were, mostly, either slain or taken prisoners.
He fled to Bristol, leaving behind him more than
2000 troops, besides all his cannon, and stores ;
•whilst the loss, on the side of the royalists, was com-
paratively inconsiderable. — Devizes is a borough of
some antiquity, the first charters having been granted
by Matilda, and confirmed by Henry II. Succeed-
ing sovereigns gave new charters, and added many
immunities, of which several are yet enjoyed by the
town. It is now governed, by charter of Charles I.,
by a mayor, recorder, eleven aldermen, and thirty-
six common-council men, who elect an unlimited
number of burgesses. A select number of these, in
conjunction with the mayor, return two members
to parliament ; a right which they exercised as
early as the reign of Edward I. — Devizes is situated
upon elevated ground, and is both extensive and
populous. The houses, irregularly constructed of
wood or brick, are as irregularly ranged along several
streets, some of which are paved. The places, in
which the established forms of worship are exercised,
are three : St. John's church, St. Mary's, and a
chapel of ease, under the parochial jurisdiction of
Bishop's Cannings. St. John's, composed of a nave,
two side aisles, a transept, a chancel, two private
chapels, and a tower, exhibits no fewer than five or
six distinct styles of architecture. Of the several
divisions, the oldest are the chancel, tower, and
transept, of which the masonry is as firm and solid
as when first constructed. The tower claims pecu-
liar notice, being supported by four curious arches ;
two semi-circular, and two pointed, the whole adorn-
ed with foliage and zig-zag mouldings ; and the
great arch, or entrance to the nave, having an orna-
ment, supposed to be unique; " a series of about
forty-eight basso-relievos, representing a particular
sort of bottle, running round the arch ; and, in the
centre, a key-stone with an angel's head and thistles
sculptured on it." The other parts of the church
voi. iv. — NO. 174.
are of comparatively modern date. Several monu-
ments commemorate members of the Heathcote and
the Sutton families ; particularly one of the latter
deserves notice : it is of white marble, executed by
Westmacott, and consists of a simple and beautiful
female figure, standing in a niche, with her right
arm resting on the shaft of a broken column. Be-
neath, an inscription informs us that James Sutton,
Esq. of New Park, was born in 1733, and died in
1801. A medallion portrait, and a figure of Bri-
tannia weeping, were intended to do honour to the
memory of the Right Honourable George Heath-
cote, who died in 1768. — St. Mary's church, exhibit-
ing the architecture of several different periods,
presents, in the chancel, a specimen of the Norman
style ; in one of its porches, a good exemplar of the
English style, of the time of Henry II. ; and, in its
other parts, of the fifteenth century, when much of
it was rebuilt by a William Smith, whose name is
preserved in an inscription on the roof of the nave.
Both the tower, which is quadrangular, and the body
of the church, are surmounted by battlements and
pinnacles. One ancient monument, sculplured with
shields and crosses, is destitute of inscription ; and
a modern mural tablet is inscribed to the memory
of James Garth, Esq. who died in 1732.— The other
principal buildings in this town are the Town Hall,
a handsome edifice of modern erection, in which the
courts and assemblies are held ; the New Gaol, con-
structed on a new and excellent plan, for the accom-
modation of the governor, and the comfort of the
prisoners ; the Free-Grammar School, the House
of Industry, and a meeting-house for dissenters.
A market-cross has been erected at the expence of
Lord Sidmouth, who represented Devizes, in several
parliaments, before his advancement to the peerage.
It is of Bath stone, executed by Wyatt ; square, in its
lower department, and octangular in the upper, which
is a spire, tastefully decorated with architectural
ornaments. — At Devizes, the petty sessions for the
division are held, and, in rotation with Salisbury,
Wilton, and Warminster, the Great Sessions for
the county. — Eminent persons, natives ofthis town,
were Richard of the Devizes, a Benedictine friar of
the twelfth century, who wrote some historical and
political pieces; Joseph Allein, born in 1633, and
educated at Oxford, a popular preacher, who was
ejected for non-conformity, and imprisoned for his
zeal, which caused his death in November, 1668;
and Dr. Philip Stephens, a physician of the seven-
teenth century, who was principal of Hart Hall,
Oxford, wrote a correct Catalogue of the Botanical
Garden there, and died before the Restoration. —
In 1714, a discovery was made, near Devizes, of
nineteen Penates, or Roman household gods, of
bronze metal, and supposed to represent some of
the most popular of the heathen deities. On the
Bishop's Cannings road is a pillar, inscribed, " Qui
Coluire Coluntur, to the memory of James Long,
Esq. who caused the road to be constructed.— At
the distance of a mile from Devizes, is New Park,
0 A a mansion
462
WILTSHIRE.
a mansion delightfully situated, the scat of Thomas
Estcourt, Esq. ; and still further northward, is
Round-a-way Hill, the. scene of the conflict before
described j crowned by a strong encampment, usu-
ally called Round-a-way Castle.
HUSTON.] — Dinton House, the seat of William
Wyndham, Esq. is situated in a valley, watered by
the river Nadder. — On an eminence, behind the
house, is an entrenchment, in area about nine acres,
enclosed by a single ditch, and a vallum, thirty-three
feet in height. The neighbourhood gave birth to
Chancellor Hyde, the circumstances of whose life,
closely interwoven with the national history, are too
well known to require detail.*
DONHEAD.] — Donhead is the name of two strag-
gling villages, which have the further distinctive
appellations of St. Mary and St. Andrew. Donhead
Hall, near the latter, situated on an eminence, and
adorned with a part of the collection of Sir Godfrey
Kneller, is the property of the grandson of that
excellent artist. — Near this village, is Castle-Ring,
an earth-work on the summit of a hill, encompassed
by a single ditch and vallum, ami comprehending an
area of fifteen acres and a half.
DO\VN,-AMPNEY.] — Down-Ampney, where is an
old mansion, now the property of Lord Eliot, is
situated on the fertile banks of the Thames, and
•watered by the brook called Ampney, formerly the
boundary of Gloucestershire. The manor was pos-
sessed by the Hungerfords, during a period of three
hundred years, one of whom built the oldest part of
the present mansion, and the gate-house. Part of
the parish church is said to have been founded by the
Knights Templars, in the thirteenth century. It
consists of a nave, chancel, transept, and side
aisles, with an embattled tower, surmounted by an
elegant spire. One tomb bears the mailed effigies
of a crusader, and the figure of his lady, with an
inscription in Saxon characters :
" flic jacet Nicholas de fillers, qui obiit X... die
mentis Junii, Anno Domini. M. CC.L.XXXXIIIl."
DOWNTON.] — Downton, or Dunkton, a borough,
seated on the Avon, 6£ miles S. S. E. from Salis-
bury, is a place of great antiquity, and is distin-
guished for the vestiges of its castle, once formidable
by its position and strength. The right of electing
its representatives in parliament is vested in persons
who have a freehold' interest in burgage tenements ;
about one hundred in number. That the castle must
have been the seat of some powerful baron is very
evident. The earth-works are extensive ; and, in
* His habits, however, in private life, may nqt be the objects
of such universal acquaintance ; — He never became a slave to
his [irotessionate-vocations ; but, retaining a strong partiality for
polite literature, he daily devoted several hows to its pursuits,
and the conversation of his friends. Among these, were Lore
Falkland, Scldeii, Hales, Waller, Sheldon, Sir Kenelm Digby,
and Chillingworth : we need not inquire further for his character
— " Dinani con chi.tu vai, saprb quel chefai." His works are :
the centre, is a large conical mound, or keep, sur-
rounded by lofty vallums. The church, winch is
cruciform, and adorned in the centre with a fine
tower, contains several tombs of the Duncombe
Family, and of other persons : among these, are the
effigies of Lady Fevershani, who died in 1755 ; the
tomb of Lord Feversham, who was Baron of Down-
ton ; a monument in honour of his second wife ; and
a large marble tomb, in memory of George Dun--
combe, Esq. who died at the age of 19 ; and of his
wife, the lion. M. Verney. An ancient stone-cross
is the spot at which elections take place : it was
repaired, in] 794, attheexpence of the then members.
The Free-School is supported by the customs, of.
payable upon all goods, brought to the annual
fairs. — A distinguished native ot Downton was Dr.
Raleigh, the grandson of the unfortunate and illus-
trious Sir Walter. He was educated at Oxford,
andj having entered into orders, obtained consider-
able church preferment ; when, the rebellion break-
ing out, he was ejected from his livings, and con-
fined at Banvvell ; after which he was consigned to
the custody of a cobbler, who, on his refusal to
comply with some insolent requisition, stabbed him.
— Bar ford, a large brick-built mansion, near Down-
ton, was built by Sir Charles Duncombe, and is
now the property of R. E. D. Shaftoe, Esq.
DRAYCOT.] — Draycot, a small township, in the
parish of Wilcot, is remarkable for having given
birth to John Buckeridge, D. D. Bishop of Ely,
about 1562. He wrote a work on the Papal Power
in temporal matters, which was esteemed a pro-
duction of considerable learning ; and some other
treatises, and sermons. He died in 1621, and was
buried at Bromley in Kent, without any monumental
memorial.
DRAYCOT-CERNE.] — Draycot-Cerne received the
subjoined distinctive part of its appellation from the
family of Cerne, who held the manor. The man-
sion, called Draycot-House, is a seat of the family
of Long, who have held the Lordship from a period
prior to the time of Henry VII. ; and of whom seve-
ral have arrived at honours in the state, and other
institutions of the realm. ' On the death of Sir James
Tilney Long, in 1794, he was succeeded by his- son.
who also dying during his minority, the estates
devolved to his eldest sister, Miss Catharine Tilnej
Long, who married, in 18 1 '^William Wellesley Pole
Esq. now William Pole Tilney Long VVellesley, aiu
whose fortune, exclusively of the settlements made 01
her mother, sisters, and others, was stated, at tin
time of her marriage, to exceed 80,000/. per annum
Contiguous to the house, which is a large irregula
Histories of the Rebellions in England and Ireland, replete wit
anecdote and delineations of character ; a Review of the Doc
trines of Mr Holibes's Leviathan ; Two Letters to the Dot
and Duchess of York, on the letter's embVacing the Cathol
Religion; a Collection of Tracts; and an Essay, on the Di •
parity between the Estates and CondilionS'of George, Duke f
Buckingham and Robert, Earl of Essex,
structur ,
WILTSHIRE.
463
structure, in an extensive park, is the church ; the
interior of which is decorated with ancient military
•weapons and ensigns, and several monuments of the
Cernes and Longs.
DURNFORD.] — The church of Great Durnford is
interesting for its antiquity, and sculptural decora-
tions, of which the door-ways, and the font, are the
most curious specimens. The tombs are mostly
of the Yonge family, who possessed Little Durn-
ford House. On the brow of a hill, eastward from
Durnford House, the seat of Miss Harris, is Ogbury
Camp, an earth-work, enclosed by a vallum, iliirty-
three feet high, and more than a mile in length. The
area, which comprises sixty-two acres ami a quar-
ter, is intersected, by many little banks, in all direc-
tions, but mostly at right angles ; there is also a
small square work, the intention of which 'is un-
known.
DUIIRINGTON.] — Durrington is a village on the
Avon, near which are the remains of a British
town, which bears the appellation of Long Walls,
and presents decided marks of a lofly circular
vallum.
EAST KNOYLE.] — East Knoyle, a small village,
situated southward from Hindoo, is remarkable only
for having given birttt to the celebrated architect and
mathematician, 8ir Christopher Wren*, who was
born there, October 20, 1632.
EASTON-GREY.] — At Easton-Grey, which was
lonsr the property of the Farrys, is their family re-
sidence, now the seat of Thomas Smith, Esq. ; anil
an elevated tract of land, which is, according to
Collinson, the site of the Roman station Mutuan-
tonis. Here, some coins and pottery have been dis-
covered, and the ruins of four gates, with founda-
tions of buildings, have been disclosed ; but the
whole has been much neglected.
EASTON-PIERSE.] — Easton-Pierse, or Piercy, now
a hamlet, but once a parish, belonging to the family
of Piers, from whom it had the suffix to its name,
•was the birth-place of the antiquary, 'John Aubrey,
•whose great-grandfather sold the manor and man-
sion-bouse, and built a residence for himself " qn
the brow of the hill, above the brook, facing the
south-east." Here Aubreyf was born, on the 12th
of March, 162!).
EDDINGTON.] — Eddington, a small village, in the
valley which separates North and South Wiltshire,
is interesting fur its fine church, as being the birth-
place of William de Eddington, Bishop of Win-
chester, and as the supposed tithandune of Saxon
* At 14, he was sent to Waclham College, Oxford, and in
1653. wa< elected fellow of All-Souls. In 1657, lie was chosen
pmfessor of agronomy, at Gresham college; but removed to
Oxlord in 1660, on being appointed Savilian professor of astro-
nomy. In 1665, he was nominated architect for rebuilding St.
Paul's Cathedral. His other works are the Theatre, at Ox-
ford ; Bow Church ; St. Stephen's, Walbrook ; St. Magnus',
London Bridge ; ami St Dunstan's in the East. He received
knighthood in 1674, and sat twice in parliament. He died in
1723, and lies buried in St. Paul's, the greatest effort of his genius.
history. In 1450, during the insurrection of Jack
Cade, the venerable Bishop Ayscough, who then
resided here, in the palace of the bishops of Salis-
bury, was barbarously and sacrilegiously dragged
from the altar, and stoned to death, on a neighbour-
ing hill. The church, consisting of a nave, transept,
chancel, two aisles, and a central tower, built of hewn
stone, is large1 and handsome. Beneath one of the
lofty arches, which separate the nave from the aisles,
is a large altar tomb, now dismantled, but formerly
ornamented with brasses and shields ; and, in the
transept, is a curious altar monument, supporting
the statue of a priest, at whose feet is a large tun
or cask, in the bunghole of which a bolt is inserted,
forming the rebus of Bolton. The chancel contains
a large marble monument, on which repose the
effigies of a kuight in armour, and of a female in
the costume of the time of Charles II. ; with an
inscription, which designates them as the figures
of Sir Edward Lewys and his lady. This chancel
was either built, or finished, by Bishop Eddington,
as his bust and arms appear in several parts.
EVERLEY.] — East Everley, which, with Elstub,
gives name to the hundred in which it is situated,
was, according, to tradition, and some unauthorised
records, the residence of Ina, a West-Saxon king.
The manor-house, now the property: ef Francis
Astley,. Esq. contains a picture similar to one de-
scribed in our account of Arbury Hall, Warwick-
shire : representing several events in the life of Sir
John de AsHley. — In the month of October, 1.814,
the new parish church of Everly, raised at the sole
cost and charge of Francis Dugdnle Astley, Esq.
the munificent patron of the living, was consecrated
by the Lord Bishop of Salisbury. It is a beautiful
Gothic fabric of Bath stone, built crosswise on the
venerable model of the old parish church, furnished
with tower, chancel and vestry ; the inner .roof of
vaulted oak, and the whole interior completed in
a style of unusual taste and elegance. His lord-
ship expressed his admiration of the zealous industry
of the founder, and the skill of Mr. Morli^lge, the
architect ; when he recollected that he had granted
the faculty for raising this beautiful church for the
short space of eighteen months • Adjoining to the
church, the liberality of Mr. Astley had still fur-
exerted itself in raising, a commodious parsonage-
house, thus completing , an example of co-operation
with the legislature, which, it were to be wished,
all lay p itrons would follow. — In further addition
to his liberality, Mr. Astley has also presented to
f He was educated at Trinity College, Oxford, and, in
1646, entered of the Middle Temple, which he ^mlted-, -in
consequence of embarrassment in his affairs. He was one of
the first members of the Royal Society ; but, being reduced to
poverty, he was supported at the close/ of his lite by Lady
Long, and some other friends, whom he had acquired in pros-
perity. He died in 1700, leaving several curious MSS. ; and
two printed works: 1. Miscellanies, _ on Apparitions, Magic,
&c.; 2. A Perambulation of the Coualy of Surrey, in live
volumes.
the
464
WILTSHIRE.
the church a complete peal of six bells. These
bells, a peal from which was opened on the 1st
of November, 1815, by the Milton ringers, arc
considered by those who have heard them, the
finest and best peal of six in England. — Seve-
ral eminences in the neighbourhood, as Godsbury,
Milton Hill, and Comb Hill, are crowned with
vestiges of earth-works, and scattered with bar-
rows. One of them, especially, called Lidbury,
measures three hundred and thirty yards in cir-
cumference, and is defended by a vallum, forty feet
in height.
FARLEY.] — Farley, a large village, anciently the
residence of the Fox family, is remarkable, chiefly,
for having given birth to Sir Stephen Fox*, who
built the church, and an alms-house, at his own cost.
The former of these, a large brick edifice, with one
transept, contains his own monument, with several
for different members of his family ; and an inscrip-
tion to Charles James Fox. The alms-house was
erected in 1678, and endowed with the sum of 188/.
per annum, for the support of a chaplain, six old
men, and as many women. It is a plain brick build-
ing, composed of a centre and two wings, the first
of which is appropriated to the use of the chaplain,
\rho has the charge of a charity-school, also insti-
tuted by Sir Stephen.
FAIRLEIGH.] — For an account of this parish, which
is partly in Wiltshire, and partly in Somersetshire,
see page 215.
FONTHILL.] — At the distance of two miles, south-
west, from Hindon, is the village of Fonthill, among
the woody eminences of which, is descryed Fonthill
Abbey, the seat of William Beckford, Esq. a resi-
dence which, for magnificence and variety of deco-
ration, is unrivalled in the west of England ; per-
haps not exceeded in the island. To attempt, by
description, to particularise and assemble all the
splendid beauties of the demesne, would be vain :
the most prominent features alone will be here pour-
trayed. In the grounds, which are encompassed by
a stone wall, seven miles in length, innumerable
terraces, lawns, walks, and " alleys green," are
either buried in the dark shades of groves of pines,
skirted by laurel and matted underwood, or bor-
dered by the scarlet thorn, variegated holly, and
other luxuriant shrubs. One lawn is termed the
Forest ; another, the Nut-lawn, where are seen
hazels, American and other exotic oaks in perfec-
tion ; and a path, called the Nine- miles- walk, forms
part of a journey of twenty-two miles, which may
be made, without twice visiting the same scene.
The frequent eminences are crowned by clumps of
trees ; and one called Beacon Hill, has on its sum-
* He was born in 1627 ; some say of obscure parents, but
without authority. He served on the king's side, in the civil
war, and, after the defeat of Worcester, exiled himself to Paris,
where he was made cofferer to the king's household. At the
Restoration, he received several new accessions of honour ;
and, on the abdication of James II. be voted for the Prince
mit, a magnificent tower, of a triangular form, with
circular bastions at its corners, overgrown with
shrubs and moss. From the spot is seen the abbey,
a grand mass of embattled towers, overtopped by
the lofty octagon of the centre ; and in the interme-
diate vale, a pellucid lake, which is plentifully sup-
plied with wild fowl ; and is made, by an hydraulic
machine, to supply the mansion with water. Between
these two most interesting objects, is a small garden,
surrounded by a light fence, and appropriated to the
culture of the rarest flowers. — Of the magnificent
mansion, of which these beautiful scenes form the
appendant embellishments, it may be observed, that
from an eminence which swells gradually from the
north and south, it rises amid lofty trees, with its
frowning towers, and turrets, and every other ma-
jestic feature of an ancient monastic pile. Its exter-
nal divisions are a central tower, two hundred and
seventy-six feet high, which rises from four pedi-
ments ; a vestibule, thirty-five feet high, adorned
with crockets, and a highly-wrought finial, the
statue of St. Anthony of Padua, and the arms of
the first Lord Latimer, from whom the proprietor
traces his descent ; a wing, which extends eastward
from the centre, and is terminated by an oriel with
stained glass ; another wing, with stained windows
on the southern side ; and a third wing, northward,
in •which are two large square towers. Directly
under the tower, is the western cloister, southward
from which, under two octangular towers, is an
oriel of two stories. On the south side, is a rich
cloister of five pointed arches; and, on the eastern
side of the abbey, is a richly carved oriel, the win-
dow of which contains the figures of St. Columba,
St. Etbeldreda, Venerable Bede, and Roger Bacon,
in stained glass, by Egginton. — To describe the
interior would be to enumerate, with admiration, a
collection of all the wonders of art, which opulence
and taste can assemble. The octagon contains eight
lofty arches, supported by clustered columns ; four
pointed windows of beautifully stained glass, and
four arches, which support the tower. Above the
eight arches, is an open gallery, from which springs
a beautiful groining of fan-work, supporting a
lanthorn, lighted by eight windows, richly stained ;
the whole finished by a vaulted roof, one hundred
and thirty-two feet from the ground. — The great
hall, built in the ancient baronial style, has a roof
of oak, decorated with thirty-eight shields, which
are emblazoned with the principal family quarter-
ings of Mr. Beckford. It contains three windows,
of richly stained glass ; three lofty arches ; and a
recess, in which stands the statue of the late Mr.
Beckford, habited as Lord-Mayor of London, with
of Orange. He retired from public business in 1701 ; but had
the honour of conducting Queen Anne on the day of her coro-
nation in 1702. He was twice married, and left two sons, one
of whom was the father of the patriot, Charles James Fox/ and
the grand-father of the present Lord Holland.
Magna
WILTSHIRE.
llagna Cliarta in his left hand. ' The great doors,
thirty-five feet high, are of oak, the hinges alone
of which weigh more than a ton ; yet they are so
exactly poised, that the valves are put in motion by
the slightest effort. Over the door- way is a spacious
music gallery, the front of which is Gothic screen-
work, with a crimson cushion, extending the whole
width of the hall. — The hrown parlour, wainscotted
with dark-coloured oak, is fifty-six feet long, lighted
by eight pointed windows, with tracery, and stained
glass, by Egginton ; and furnished in a style of the
richest, simplicity. A small adjoining drawing-room
contains an antique vase, and specimens of an almost
unequalled collection of china, which is dispersed
through the whole edifice. Near this, is a small
gallery, almost filled with costly tables of oriental
alabaster, and curious china ; and an octangular
tower, which contains a rich cabinet of ebony, inlaid
with lapis-lazuli, and other precious stones, and
several fine old pictures, by Van Eyck, Holbein,
and Giulio Clovio. In this southern wing, is an
apartment, used by the artists, containing a collec-
tion of the rarest hooks and prints, illustrative of
ancient costume, two windows, with armorial bear-
ings, by Pierson, and two inestimable japan cabi-
nets, enriched with bronzes. The other rooms in
this wing contain closets filled with rareties, precious
cabinets, and valuable pictures ; particularly the
south tribune, which is an opening from the octagon.
Returning northward, the yellow room contains
some of the finest cabinets of Japan and Buhl work
in Europe ; and two immense china jars, presented
to Mr. Beckford, by the Prince of Brazil. The
small octagon tower is decorated with two frames,
and alto relievos, of the time of Edward I. ; two
tables of the rarest Florentine work ; and a great
variety of enamelled gold vases, enriched with gems.
The Japan room contains the proprietor's most
choice books, and is divided by a folding screen of
exquisite tracery, from " the gallery," so called,
par excellence. : for there are several in the mansion;
From the entrance, the oratory faintly appears at
the end of a vista of vaulted roofs 330 feet in extent.
In this gallery, near the oriel, is a large amber
cabinet, without a blemish, exhibiting all the various
hues of that precious material. It once belonged to
the Queen of Bohemia, whose portrait, with that
of her husband, appears in cameo ; and it is sup-
ported by a table of ebony, which formerly belonged
to Cardinal Wolsey. The east side of this gallery
is lighted by two windows, and an oriel of stained
glass; beneath which is a large Japan chest, inlaid
with pearl and silver. On the west side, is the pur-
ple bed-room, which contains a painted frieze, by
Cagliari, and some valuable pictures, by Holbein,
and others. — The Lancaster gallery, decorated with
scarce prints, leads to the state bed-chamber, the fur-
niture of which, of crimson damask, richly fringed,
belonged to Mr. Beckford's great-grandfather, when
governor of Jamaica. The pictures here are valu-
able ; and the ceiling is ornamented in the purest
TOU. IV. — NO. 174.
: style of the 10th century. •*- The rooms which
surround " the Octagon" are the northern tribune,
; adorned with ebony and ivory, cabinet vases of agate
and of jade, enriched with precious stones, some
portraits, and two pictures by West ; the southern
tribune, already mentioned ; two bed-rooms, and
two dressing-rooms, which contain some valuable
pictures, by old musters, and several pieces by West,
from the Revelations. — An inclined plane conducts
to the top of the great tower, whence may be aeon
Wardour Castle, the grounds at Stourhead, and
much of the counties of Dorset and Somerset, with
-Bradley Knoll, and Bridcombe. — On tiie north-east
side of the Abbey is a tower, containing several
apartments, the furniture of which is entirely com-
posed of solid ebony, and the rarest woods. King
Edward the Third's gallery is lighted by seven
lofty windows, hung with curtains of purple and
scarlet ; on the frieze are the achievements of seventy-
eight knights of the Garter, from whom the owner
is lineally descended ; and the walls are hung with
portraits of Henry VII., Edward IV., John of
Gaunt, the Constable Montmorency, Alphonso of
Naples, John of Montfort, Duke ot Bretagne, and
our Edward III. A vaulted gallery, in continua-
tion, receives light through six perforated bronze
doors, which are hung with crimson curtains ; is
wainscotted in the most superb style; and entirely
covered with a Persian carpet, of extraordinary size
and texture. A1 the end is the Oratory, <he roof
of which, entirely gilt, terminates at each corner,
with delicate ftm-work, resting upon a slender
pillar. Lofty stands on each side support can-
delabra of massive silver, richly gilt ; the altar is
embellished with a statue of Anthony, in alabaster,
by Rossi ; and from the ceiling depends a golden
lamp, elaborately chased. A description of so much
grandeur must necessarily be defective ; the most
vivid imagination can conceive nothing so striking,
as an assemblage of the intellectual labours of genius
in all ages; the most successful efforts of refined,
almost perfect — art ; and the wonders of the mineral
kingdom ; — arranged in a repository, the very cha-
racter of which was selected as the most proper
for the habitation and worship of the Deity.
FOXLEY.] — Foxley, a village, composed of houses,
detached and imbosomed in trees, has a church of
high antiquity, and an old mansion-house, the pro-
perty of Richard Carter, Esq. A chapel in the
former, -separated from the chancel by two pillars
of the 13th century, contains an escutcheon, with
an inscription to one of the Ayliffes, and a shield
charged with their arms.
FCGGLESTONE.] — Fugglcstone St. Peter, situated
on the Wily, near Wilton, is remarkable for an hos-
pital, founded, it is supposed, by Adelicia, a queen
of Henry Beauclerc, but, as Leland tells us, that
King Ethelred was buried here, it is likely that she
only refounded an establishment, originally formed
for the preservation of his tomb. It still exists,
and supports a prior, who is the rector of the parish,
6 B
<18<5
WILTSHIRE.
and four poor persons, who receive a yearly allow-
ance ; but the buildings, except the chapel, have
disappeared.
FROXFIELD.] — Froxfield, a straggling village, on
the London road to Ball), three miles W. from
Hungertbrd, claims notice, for its celebrated alms-
house, which WHS founded and endowed in 1686,
by Surah, Dowager Duchess of Somerset, for thirty
widows, who were to receive a certain yearly allow-
ance, and to be increased in number, to 50, as the
revenues increased in value. The persons admissible
are three fifths, clergymeus' widows, from any part
of England ; the remainder, laics' widows, from
Wiltshire only. The government is vested in twelve
trustees, who nominate a chaplain, steward, apothe-
cary, and porter.
GREAT CHARLTON.] — At Great Charlton, a village
in the vicinhy of Uphaven, was formerly an alien
priory, appended to the Prremonstratensian Abbey
of L'lle Dieti. This place gave birth to Stephen
Duck, a poet of some note, who was patronized by
Queen Caroline. Originally a thrasher, he was
stimulated by the perusal of such books as he could
procure, to attempt poetical composition. His pieces,
however, do not soar above mediocrity ; and it was
probably the discovery, made by his taste, of the small
merit of his productions, that excited him to commit
suicide at Reading, in 1756.
GREAT COMBERWELL.] — Near Great Comber-well,
is Wraxhall House, the original property of the
Longs, whose origin is thus related by Leland : — •
" One Long Thomas, a stoute felaw, was sette up
by one of the old Lordes Hungrefordes, and after,
by cause this Thomas was caullid Long Thomas,
Long was usurped for the name of the family."
GRITTLETON.] — Griltleton, a parish, comprising
the two hamlets of Upper and Lower Foscot, once
belonged to the family of Gore, and afterwar.ls to
Colonel White, a parliamentary officer in the civil
war, whose daughter married a Houlton, the ances-
tor of the present proprietor. It is remarkable for
some curious fossil productions, resembling fish, of
a flinty substance, with radii from an eccentric
focus. The church contains one monument of a
Gore, and several of the Houlton family.
HANNINGTON.] — Hannington, a small vilhigeand
parish, eastward from Cricklade, is rural and pic-
turesque, and embellished with the respectable man-
sion of Mr. Montgomery.
HARNISH.]— At Harnish, or Harden-Huish, is
the seat of H. Bosanquet, Esq. son-in-law to Chris-
topher Anstey, author of the New Bath (Juide, who
died here in 1805. The church, a handsome modern
edifice, contains, among other monuments, one to
the memory of John Thorpe, Esq. M. A. and F.S.A.
author of " Registrum Roffense," " Costumale Rof-
lense," and some miscellaneous papers. He died
in 1792.
HARTHAM.] — Harthatn Park, the seat of Mr.
Ensor, was once the residence of Lady James, the
friend and correspondent of Sterne ; and a mansion
in the same parislfhas long been in the possession
of the Ducket family.
HEDDINGTON.] — Heddington, or its immediate
vicinity, is distinguished by numerous coins, urns,
and other remains, to have been a Roman station,
Stukeley says Ferlucio, in which opinion he is coun-
tenanced by some other writers of credit. The
church is decorated with an old table, covered with
the tattered remains of the Book of Martyrs ; and
a coffin suspended from the roof, in a worm-eaten
and decayed state, without inscription or other
notice. On Bagdon Hill, south-eastward from the
village, are the vestiges of an encampment.
HEYTESBURY.] — Heytesbury, popularly called
Hatchbury, four miles E. S. E. from Warminster,
is a borough by prescription, governed by a bailiff
and burgesses, who return two members to parlia-
ment. The Empress Matilda established her abode
there, during her contention wjth Stephen ; and in
the reign of Edward III. it was the residence of the
Lords Burghersh. The whole vicinity, within three
miles of the town, abounds with monuments of the
Britons, Romans, Saxons, and Danes. The public
buildings, are an alms-house, or hospital, founded by
Walter, Lord Hungertbrd, for twelve poor men and
a woman, and endowed by his widow and others ;
and the church, a spacious and heavy building, in
the form of a cross, with a square tower in the
centre. The latter is very ancient, having been
made collegiate about the middle of the 13th cen-
tury ; but it contains no more than one monument
worthy of notice : that of Mr. William Cunnington,
a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, who died
in December, 1810. — Heytesbury House, the seat
of Sir William P. A. A'Court, Bart, is a modern
brick building, surrounded by extensive pleasure-
grounds. — Cotley Hill is surmounted by a large
tumulus, which, on being opened in 1801, was found
to contain bones, iron nails, and broken pottery. —
Scratchbury Camp is the name of another hill, on
which is an entrenchment, forty acres in extent,
formed by a single ditch and rampart. This h;is
several entrances, and some barrows 'within the
area, which, on being opened, were found to con-
tain burnt bones, a lance head, an amber ring, sotoe
beads of the same materials, and several instru-
ments of brass, resembling screws. — Pitmead is a
large meadow on the Wily, where were discovered,
in 1780, a fragment of Mosaic work, the remains
of a portico, 56 feet long, and 10 wide ; and the
beautiful flooring of an apartment, formed of square
pieces, on which lay a mutilated female statue, with
the figure of a hare at its feet. Subsequently, in
1800, a greater longitude of portico was laid open,
a second pavement was discovered, circular, but
enclosed with a square ornamented frame, and re-
presenting figures of flowers and birds ; and another
foundation was brought to light, with the remains
of a sudatory and hypocaust ; from nil which very
convincing evidence, none can doubt that Pilmead
is the site of a large and magnificent Roman villa.
Knock
WILTSHIRE.
467
Knock Castle, a small single ditched entrench-
ment, two miles northward from lleytesbury, is in
form an irregular oblong of two acres, and is sup-
posed to have been a summer camp of the Romans,
as coins and other remains of that people have been
discovered there. From this spot, a ditch and
vallum, called Old Ditch, extends to Great Durn-
ford, passing many sites of British villages ; and in
the immediate vicinity is another earthen work. A
large barrow on a hill, was found to contain i'ourtoeii
skeletons of men, and a large cist, with some heads
of oxen. Golden Barrow, on the banks of the
Wily, was so called from the richness of its con-
tents, a variety of articles of solid gold, a cup of
amber curiously studded ; and two other cups, of
unusual and excellent workmanship.
HiomvoiiTH.] — Highworth, (4'2i miles N. by E.
from Salisbury) a market town and parish, is govern-
ed by a corporation, composed of a mayor, alder-
men, and council; and gives name to the hundred
in which it stands. The town, situated on a lofty
spot, consists of houses built, for the most part,
of stone; and the church, which is divided into a
nave, two side aisles, a chancel, two small chapels
and a square tower, surmounted by an open balus-
trade, is adorned with pointed arches, several monu-
ments of the Warnefords, some pieces of ancient
armour, and a mural tablet in memory of Sir John
Croft, Bart, who died in 1797.
HINDON.] — The market-town of Hitvdon, 17
miles W. by N. from Salisbury, is a borough by
prescription, governed by a bailiff and burgesses,
and privileged to return two members to parliament.
These are elected by the inhabitants of houses within
the borough, being housekeepers and parishioners
not receiving alms, all notoriously venal. The major
part of the town composes one long street, on the
side of a gentle eminence. The church is modern,
and remarkable for nothing interesting. The neigh-
bourhood of Hindon exhibits marks of a British
Tillage. Of these, Stockton Works, situated on the
eastern side of Great Ridge Wood, are composed
of ramparts, enclosing an area of 62 acres, in the
centre of which is a small pentangular protuberance.
Here have been found coins, nails, millstones, bricks,
and pottery : in short, all the evidence of Roman,
as well as British residence.
HOLT.] — Holt Church, three miles N. E. from
Bradford, is remarkable for a small niche over the
western door, which appears to have been filled by
a statue. This little village deserves notice for its
mineral spring, which is justly famed for the many
cures it has wrought.
IDMISTON.] — idmistori, a small village, near
Amesbury, was, during many years, the residence
of the Rev. John Bowles, nick-named Don Bowie,
for his extravagant attachment to the Spanish lan-
guage. He published a splendid edition of his
favourite Cervantes, some miscellaneous pieces, and
four papers in the Archaeologia ; and died in 1788.
KINGSWOOD.] — Kingswood is a considerable vil-
lage, which, though surrounded by Gloucestershire,
forms a part of the hundred of Chippenham. The
church, which is small, contains several monumental
inscriptions, one of which honours the memory of
Elizabeth, Countess of Bellamont, who died in 1422.
Here was formerly an abbey of Cistercian monks,
founded in 1139, by William de Berkeley, the re-
mains of which, consisting of the gate-house, and
two ranges of buildings, occupied as dwelling-
houses, prove it to have been at once extensive and
magnificent.
KINGTON ST. MICHAEL.] — Kington St. Michael,
which Aubrey states to have been once called King-
ton Mouachorum, and to have had a market, re-
ceived the latter part of its present designation from
the saint to whom the church was dedicated. This
church was erected, according to tradition, by an
abbot of Glastonbury, in the reign of Henry HI..
but the style of its architecture is of an earlier date.
The arches, and windows of the nave and chancel,
are pointed, whilst those of the tower are round ;
and the north door exhibits, above the key-stone, a
crowned head, in bold relief ; which Aubrey sup-
poses to be that of " Ethelred, whose seat this was."
In the windows are fragments of stained glass ; and
in the chancel and north aisle are many monuments,
one among which covers the dust of Richard Aubrey,
Esq. father to the antiquary. In the village are
ahns-houses, and a free-school, both neglected ; andj
at a short distance, is the priory, which was founded
either at a period anterior to the reign of Henry II.,
or by the Empress Matilda, for nuns of the Benedic-
tine order. The building surrounded a small square
court, on the north side of which was the chapel. On
the east side was the garden, with raised terraces ;
and in a valley near the house, is a trout stream,
with the remains of fish-ponds. After the Dissolu-
tion, the buildings were converted by Sir Richard
Long into a family mansion ; but they have been
long occupied by a farmer.
LIACKHAM.] — Lackham was, during several cen-
turies, the seat of the Baynards, who possessed,
by grant of Edward III., the privilege of hunting
in Pewisham Forest, with many items much valued
in those days. Their seat, a plain edifice, rebuilt
in modern times, is situated in a rich vale.
LACOCK.] — Lncoek, or Laycock, (three miles S.
from Chippenham) a large village, situated in a fer-
tile valioy, which is watered by the Avon, is inte-
resting for the history and remains of its abbey,
founded in 1232, by Ella, Countess of Salisbury.
She was the daughter of William, second Earl of
Salisbury, and was educated in Normandy, whence
she was brought by one William Talbot, an English-
man, who undertook this adventure, to preserve to
bis country the possessions of so great an heiress.
King Richard, on her arrival, received her graci-
ously, and gave her in marriage to William Long-
espee, his natural brother, the son of Fair Rosa-
mond. Her husband died in 12-26 ; and, after an
interval of six years, she resolved, to found a monas-
tery.
408
WILTSHIRE.
tery. This was Lncock Abbey, established for nuns
of the Augustine order, of which eight years after-
wards she became abbess, and so continued eighteen
years, at the end of which she resigned ; and, dying
five years afterwards, at the age of seventy-four,
she was buried in the church of the abbey, where
a monumental stone boars this inscription : —
" INFRA SUNT DEPOSITA ELK VENERABILIS OSSA, Q.UJE
DEDIT HAS SEDES SACRAS MONIAUBUS, QUARUM ABBA-
TISSA aUIDEM dllS SANCTE VIXIT llilDEM ET COMITISSA
SARUM VIRTCTUM PLENA BON'AKUM ; OBIIT 1261."
Here repose the bones of the venerable Ella, who
gave this sacred mansion to nuns, of whom indeed
she was abbess, and who lived here piously, after
having been Countess of Sarum, and died full of
virtues, 1261.
Many rights and immunities were annexed to the
licence or charter granted by Henry III. for the
foundation of the abbey : such were a weekly mar-
ket, and an annual fair, held during three days in
July ; the liberty of taking a. cart load of dead
wood from the forest of Melksham every week,
which was afterwards commuted for forty acres of
woodland in the said forest ; and the possession of
considerable landed property granted by the foun-
dress and other benefactors. At the Dissolution,
Lacock Abbey was granted to Sir William Sher-
rington, whose daughter marrying John Talbot, Esq.
carried it into that family. By them it was converted
into a mansion; and it is now occupied assuchby John
Rock Grosset, Esq. — Lacock Abbey, having been
fortified by the Talbots in the royal cause, was taken
in 1645, by the parliamentarians. — From what re-
mains of this abbey, it appears to have surrounded
two quadrangles ; of which the northern one was
appropriated to the subordinate offices, &c. whilst
the southern was enclosed by the church, chapter-
house, refectory, liall, &c. and bounded on three
sides by a cloister. One room on the eastern side
of these cloisters was used by the nuns as a kitchen,
and contains a trough formed of one stone, eleven
feet long, five broad, and two deep, for the purpose
of keeping a supply of live fish. This room, as well
as the chapter-house, is divided by columns into
two parts, but in the latter, they are more orna-
mented. Of the once magnificent church, only a
part of the north wall is standing ; but adjoining to
the vestry-room, is the tower, in an tipper room of
•which is kept an original copy of the Great Charter,
which. was deposited there by Ella. Here is also a
curious stone table, supported by figures of heathen
deities ; and a small flight of steps gives access to
the roof of the house, whence an extensive and
varied prospect is discovered. The rest of the
buildings are much altered by the accommodations
requisite in a modern residence ; but still many
traces remain, and cannot be obliterated but by the
destruction of the whole of the venerable features
of monastic architecture. The old hall has been
converted into servants' rooms ; the refectory is
metamorphosed into a modern hall ; and the whole
is applied to uses rery different from those for which
it was designed. On the top of the Abbey is an
immense cistern, sufficiently capacious to contain
110 hhds. of water, conveyed thither by pipes under
the Avon, from Bowden-hill. A farm-house, not
far from the Abbey, and near the Avon, retains the
name of Bewle»y-priory, probably because it was a
cell to some religious house. A curious oak-tree,
on this manor, has the name of the four sisters, from
the circumstance of its trunk being divided into four
distinct trunks, at the height of five feet from the
ground, without, however, branching outwards. —
The church of Laycoek contains several monuments
in honour of the various possessors of its manor :
the Baynards, Montagues, and Johnsons. Among
those of the last mentioned, is one " To the memory
of James, late Lord Bishop of Worcester," who
died " at Bath, Nov. 27, 1775, in consequence of
a most unfortunate fall from his horse, and was
buried here in the vault of his ancestors." — The
biography of this place offers one subject for notice :
John Mann, a divine and diplomatist of the 16th
century, who was ambassador to Spain, and pub-
lished " Common-places of Christian Religion, &c."
He died in 1508. Bowden Park, a modern struc-
ture, from the designs of Wyatt, is the seat of the
Dickinsons.
LAVERSTOKE.] — Laverstoke, a village, which is
situated north-eastward from Salisbury, is remark-
able for having been the demesne of Humphrey,
Duke of Gloucester, surnamed the Good Duke, for
his heroic actions, and the excellent qualities of hi*
nature.
LAVINGTON.] — Lavington is the common name of
two places distinguished by the allusive appellations
of East Steeple, or Market Lavington, and West
or Bishop's Lavington. The former, 19 miles
N. W. by N. from Salisbury, is situated beneath the
range of hills which form the confines of Salisbury
Downs, and had formerly a market. The church,
situated on an eminence at the western end of the
village, exhibits a specimen of the pointed style of
I architecture, with some tracery in its windows, and
j several monuments, among which is a mural slab of
! marble, with the figure of a female reclining on an
urn, on basso-relievo, inscribed to the memory of
Thomas Sainbury, Esq. who was Lord-Mayor of
London in 1786, and died in 1795. Dr. Thomas
Tanner, Bishop of St. Asaph : this learned prelate
was born in 1674, and educated at Queen's College,
• Oxford. He was consecrated Bishop of St. Asaph,
the highest dignity which be attained in 1732, and
died 1735. He wrote " Notitia Monastica, or an
! Account of all the Religious Houses in England
' and Wales" ; and " Bibliotheca Britannico-Hiber-
nica ;" and contributed to the last edition of Wood's
! " Athenae Oxonienses ;" he was a distinguished
native of this place ; and at his death bequeathed a
donation of 200/. to be distributed in a manner bene-
ficial to the parishioners. — West or Bishop's Laving-
ton, is situated, as its name imports, westward from
Market
WILTSHIRE.
Market Lavington. An alms-house and a free-school
•were founded there in 154-2, by a Dantsey, to whom
the manor belonged. The church, a large building,
consisting of a nave, chancel, two aisles, and two
chapels, contains several monuments, of which two
are old altar tombs, erected in honour of two mem-
bers of the Danvers or Dantsey family : one of these
supports the statue of a female, in alabaster. Ano-
ther tomb bears the figure of a female, much muti-
lated ; and on the floor are numerous brasses,
bearing inscriptions in honour of the Dantseys. —
Cheverel-Ma-jna and Cheverel-Parvaarethe names
of two small villages, situated north-westward from
Bishop;s Laviugton.
LEIGH.]— Leigh, commonly called Westbury-
Leigh, is supposed, by Gibson, and other antiqua-
ries, to be the place, called JEgglea, at which
Alfred encamped, during the night preceding the
'battle of Ethandune. An adjoining field has the
name of Court-field ; and a garden, surrounded by
a moat, is said to have been the site of a Saxon
palace. ,
LIDDINGTON.] — Liddington, or Badbury-Castle,
is the name of an entrenchment on the summit of
Beacon-hill, supposed by Whitaker to be the Mans
Badonicus, described by old writers as a British
out-post of considerable strength, and the first which
was besieged 'by Cerdic, in 5-20.
LIDDIARD-TREGOSE.]— Liddiard-Tregose,orTre-
goozc, called, at the Conquest, Lidiar, was then
granted to the Earl of Eu,oue of whose descendants
carried it, by marriage, to the family of Tregose.
In like manner it passed to the Grandisons, then,
to the Patishals, afterwards to the Beauchamps, and
lastly, in the reign of Henry VI. to the St. Johns,
in which noble family it remains : being now the
property of George St. John Viscount Bolingbroke.
The church, which is ancient, and composed of a
nave, two aisles, a chancel, and a square tower, is
decorated with old helmets, remains of military en-
signs, fragments of stained glass, and numerous
monumental erections, chiefly in honour of the family
of St. John. Two folding doors in the chancel,
exhibit their pedigree on two tablets ; and a monu-
mental memorial in honour of Sir John St. John
and his lady, whose figures, with those of their six
children, are there pourtrayed. The date ^is 1615.
Under a canopy, is the statue of Edward St. John,
in armour, with greaves, spurs, and gauntlets ; some
emblematic figures and trophies, and a Latin in-
scription, which dates his death on the 14th of April,
1615. Near the communion-table, is a costly monu-
ment, in honour of Sir John St. John, his two wives,
* Tliis nobleman was a native of Liddiard-Tregose, and was
originally bred lo the law ; but,, having killed Cant. Best in a
duel, he embraced the profession of arms, in, which he roie to
great eminence, as well as in politics, for which l/e *as reward-
ed with an Irish peerage in 1622; being created Viscount
Grandfcon of Lirmrick. After having fille:! several important
state offices in England and Ireland, he was created a baron of
England by the style of Baron Tregose, of Highworth, in Wilt-
VOL. IV. — NO. 171.
and several of their children. The knight is there
represented in armour, between the figures of his-
consorts ; at the feet are three kneeling figures of
female children, and at the head those of five boys ;
and from the tomb rise eight Corinthian columns of
black marble, supporting an entablature, on which
are several figures, armorial bearings, and an in-
scription specifying the names of his wives and child-
ren, the characters of the former, and the dates of
the death of some of the latter, with the time of bis
own death : " MDCXXXII11."— A marble monu-
ment, near the south wall, supports a black sarco-
phagus, to the memory of John, Lord Viscount St.
John, who died in 1748, and of Anne, his wife, who
died in 1744. Several other monuments, very worthy
of notice, adorn various parts of the edifice : over
the chancel door are two figures, male and female,
seated under a canopy ; two other figures are re-
presented on a sarcophagus, supported by a pedes-
tal, on which is an inscription, signifying that Sir
Nicholas St. John had by his wife Elizabeth Blunt,
three sons and five daughters ; and that he died in
1589, surviving his beloved wife two years ; and an
altar-tomb is inscribed to the memory of Benjamin
Culme, D.D. deacon of St. Patrick's, Dublin, who
" Utriuscme fortuua particeps, ulramque honestavit-
Idem semper in ppriis, in adversis, idem
in omnibus."
an exemplar of equanimity not often found now-a-
days. He died in 1657. — Liddiard Park, the seat
of Lord Bolingbroke, adjoins the church-yard, aiul
is adorned with a tasteful distribution of wood and
water. The mansion contains a few landscapes, a
portrait of Sir Walter Raleigh, and some family
portraits of the St. Johns. Among the most dis-
tinguished members of this family were Oliver, Vis-
count Grandison*,. and Henry, Lord BoHugbrokef ;
the former a warrior,, the latter a philosopher ; and
both politicians of the first order.
LINEHAM.] — Linehai»,orLyneham, a considerable
village, in Kingsbridge hundred, comprehends the
hamlet of Clack, near which, on the summit of an
eminence, is the farm-house, which constituted part
of the buildings of Bradenstoke priory, before
noticed.
LITTLECOT-PARK.] — LiUlecot-Park, the seat of
Major-Gencral E. L. Popham, is situated partly in
Chilton-Foliot, and partly in Ramsbury parish.
The demesne is extensive, well-wooded, and watered
by the Kenuet, a branch of which, flowing through,
the garden, forms a fine preserve for trout. The
house, erected by the Darells, in the 16th century,
shire, but, dying without issue, in 1039, the last mentioned
title became extinct.
f Henry St. John, Viscount Boltngbroke, the splendid phi-
losopher and the profound politician ; the friend of Pope, and
the enemy of Christianity, was born in 1672, and educated at
Eton and Oxford. His political life is well known. He died
at Battersea in 1751, leaving us in his works the evidence of an
original and vigorous genius.
6 c retaias
470
WILTSHIRE.
retains many features of the architecture of that
day, when the feutlal manners and hospitality had
not entirely disappears! : having a large and lol'ty
hall, garnished with coats of mail, helmets, cross-
bows, old fashioned pistols, leathern jerkins, and
other accoutrements, with a large oak table ; a curi-
ous ancient arm-chair, and a pair of elk's horns,
which measure seven feet six inches between the
extremities. ,A gallery, more than a hundred feet
in length, is hung with portraits in the Spanish cos-
tume, among which is one of Nell Gwynne, and one
of Judge Popham, the first of his family who pos-
sessed Littleton Park. In this gallery is also a
piece of needle- work, representing a large tesselated
pavement, found in the adjoining park, in 1728. It
is 41 feet long, and 83 broad, forming two parts ;
the one decorated with the emblems of Neptune, as
•sea-monsters, dolphins, and conchs ; the other, with
the figure of Apollo, distinguished by his lyre, and
of the Seasons, riding swiftly on four different ani-
mals ; Spring, holding a flower, and seated on a
deer ; Summer, holding a swan, and seated on a
panther ; Autumn, holding a vine branch, and seated
on a ball ; and Winter, riding on a goat, without
any-thing ; denoting her barrenness. The two first
were naked from the waist upwards, the others
covered, except their arms. The whole denoted
the former existence of a sort of poly'theon, or tem-
ple dedicated to the worship of several divinities.
A smaller pavement was also discovered about the
same time on Rudge farm, and a curious cup, of
brass, inscribed with the names of five stations, or
towns: "Amais, Aballana, Uxelodnno, Ambloga-
nus, Banna." — PickedfieM, formerly a part of this
demesne, forty acres in extent, was, in 1803, pur-
chased by government for the erection of a maga-
zine, barracks, and the necessary offices.
LITTLETON-DREW.] — In a field, near the village
of Littleton-Drew, is a large barrow, with three
stories of a cromlech on its summit ; two erect, and
one in a leaning position, as though fallen from the
others, of which it had been an impost. This ap-
pearance, with the name of the place, prompts the
supposition of a temple of the British druids having
existed here at a remote period.
LONGFORD CASTLE.] — On the western bank of
the Avon, at the distance of three miles from Salis-
bury, is situated Longford Castle, the seat of the
Earl of Radnor. It is a triangular building, with a
round tower at each of its angles, walls of stone,
and a principal front adorned w,ith a profusion of
columns, pilasters, balustrades, &e. It is the in-
tention of the present proprietor to remove this edi-
fice, and to erect a large castellated mansion on its
site : to consist of six round towers, as at many
angles, and a central one. The treasures of art
deposited in Longford Castle, are worthy of a mag-
nificent repository : consisting of the works of Rem-
brandt, Vandervelde, Vandyck, Rubens, Holbein,
andWouvermans, those of many of the most celebrat-
ed Italian masters, and some pieces of the French
school, in the very first style of excellence. " Among1
the curiosities here assembled must be noticed a steel
chair, remarkable for the labour and ingenuity ex-
emplified in its execution. It was made at Augs-
btirgh, in 1575, by one Thomas Rukers, who has
represented, in 130 compartments, a series of events
which illustrate the history of the Roman people,
from the landing of ^Eneas, to the reign of Rodol-
phus II.
LONGLEAT.] — Longleat, the magnificent seat of
the Marquis of Bath, situated near the confines of
Somersetshire, was originally a priory, founded by
the Lord of Horningsham, for monks of the Augus-
tine order, and purchased after the Dissolution by
Sir John Thynne, the founder of the present edifice,
which was completed by his son and his grandson;
It is situated in the mid'dle of an extensive park,
whose natural features, grand and diversified, offer
to the view a broad valley, in which is a large sheet
of water ; bold eminences, thickly timbered ; and an
avenue of old trees, more t'nan a mile in length : the
whole fifteen miles in circumference. — Longleat,
built in the mixed style of the 16ih century, of
a quadrangular figure, stands on the banks of the
Frome, which winds through the vale, and diver-
sifies the scenery in an agreeable manner. Each of
the four fronts is adorned with pilasters of the Doric,
Ionic, and Corinthian orders, and is surmounted by
a balustrade, which, combined with colossal stone
statues on the south and east sides, with the turrets
and columnar chimneys, presents a very picturesque
appearance. The interior corresponds in beauty
and grandeur with the outside ; and is, besides, de-
corated with many portraits and pictures by eminent
masters, which render Longleat interesting as a
repository of the arts, as well as a monument of art
itself. The portraits are chiefly of characters, much
connected with the well-conned history of the 16th
and 17th centuries, among whom we must notice the
Protector Somerset, and his brother, the High Ad-
miral ; Chancellors Thurlow and Bacon ; Bishop
Juxon ; Sir Thomas Overbury ; Sir Thomas Gre-
sham ; the turbulent Shaltesbury ; Graham of Cla-
verhouse, created Viscount Dundee; Gary, Lord
Falkland ; Sir Philip Sydney ; Elizabeth's favourite
Dudley ; Cardinal Fisher ; Ladies Arabella Stuart,
and Wentworth; and the ill-fated Earl of Strafford.
— At Horningsham, a village a mile distant from.
Longleat, resided, during many years, Thomas
Davis, Esq. author of a " General View of the Agri-,
culture of Wiltshire." He died in 1807.
LUCKINGTON.] — Luckington, near Alderton, was
the demesne of Earl, afterwards King Harold ;
after the Conquest, it belonged to the Seymour
family, and passed from them to the Zouches, in the
reign of Edward IV. In the neighbourhood, is a
barrow, which contains some caverns of large dimen-
sions, somewhat similar to the noted caves at Not-
tingham.
LUDGERSHAI.L.] — Ludgershall, a small town, 16f
miles N. N. E. from Ludgershall, on the borders of
Hamp-
WILTSHIRE.
471
Hampshire, is a borough by prescription, having-,
•with some little intermission, enjoyed the privilege
of being represented in parliament since the 2;3d of
Edward I. The elective franchise belongs to the
freeholders and copyholders of the borough houses,
and to leaseholders, for any term not under three
years; together, about seventy in number. Although
it is said to have been a resilience of our Saxon
kings, it retains no traces of grandeur, except the
ruins of a castle, which was founded soon after the
commencement of the Norman era, and probably
dismantled in the time of Edward I. The weekly
market, which this place once enjoyed, is disconti-
nued ; but a mutilated market-cross remains, adorn-
ed with sculptured story, in basso-relievo. The
church is plain ; but it. contains one magnificent
tomb, on which repose the figures of Sir Richard
Brydgi's and Jane his wife, in the costume of the
age in which they lived.
MAIDEN BRADLEY.] — Maiden Bradley, between
Longleat and Stourhead, is a considerable village,
where w;is founded, in the reign of Henry il. an
institution for the support of leprous women, by
Manasser Biset. A part of the buildings of this
establishment remains, and is inhabited as a farm-
house. Bradley House, a seat of the Duke of So-
merset, is a plain structure, of stone, consisting of a
centre, and two projecting wings. Adjoining this,
is the parish church, which consists of a nave, two
aisles, a chancel^ and a tower ; and contains some
monuments of the Seymours, particularly one to the
memory of Sir Edward Seymour, which deserves
notice, both for its own beauty and the celebrity of
the person whose existence it is intended to comme-
morate. It is constructed of marble, and exhibits
a recumbent statue of the baronet in his senatorial
robes ; while two figures, symbolical of death and
immortality, appear on the pediment. A long in-
scription eulogizes the deceased, in rather hyperbo-
lical terms, and dates the time of his death in 1707.
— At Hill-Deverill, in this neighbourhood, was born
Edmund Ludlow, a lieutenant-general in the service
of the parliament, one of the twelve commissioners
who sat in judgment on Charles I., and lord-deputy
of Ireland ; after the death of Ireton. After the
Revolution he attempted to return to England, but
being threatened as a regicide, he thought proper
to retire, and died at Vivay in 1693. — A Kjfty, and
insulated eminence, called Bidcombe, rises at a
short distance eastward from Maiden Bradley, over-
looking parts of Somersetshire, Dorsetshire, and
Wiltshire, and exhibiting relics of British and other
antiquities, which mark it as a site of the highest
interest. It has been celebrated as such in a " Rural
and Descriptive Poem," by the Rev. F. Skurray,
which is thought, however, to be too much tinctured
with a mixture of historical retrospection, to belong
to the same species of poetry as the production of
Denham, of which it is avowedly an imitation.
MALMSBKRY.] — Malmslniry, an ancient borough
and market-town, 43 miles N. N. W. from Salisbury,
and 95| W. by N. from London, is built on the com-
manding ridge of an eminence almost insulated by
two streams. History is silent on the subject of its
original foundation ; though it most probably began
with the religious institution to which it afterwards
owed much of its prosperity. William of Malms-
bury informs us, that the castle was founded by
Roger, Bishop of Sarum, who also built the fortress
at Devizes. The monastic annals of the place begin
with Maildulph, a Scot, who, having collected a
number of devotees, built a small monastery, and
subjected them to regular discipline. This infant
establishment, nurtured by the patronage of a Bishop
of Winchester, of the kings of Mercia and Wessex,
and enriched with some relics of great sanctity, soon
rose to opulence and celebrity. The deed which
raised it to the dignity of an abbey was dated in 575,
from which period, till the Dissolution, its riches
and splendour were continually accumulating. Ed-
ward III. even conferred on the superior the privi-
ledge of sitting in the House of Peers as a mitred
abbot. Its buildings covered an extent of forty-five
acres, and its revenues amounted to 803/. 17s. 7|rf.
per annum. Such an establishment, with the bene-
ficent dews of its own expenditure, and the plenteous
streams attracted thither by its far spread lame,
could not fail to fertilize the happy sphere of its
influence ; and Malmsbury grew up without the
walls of its religious establishment, rich and
flourishing; but it fell, in some measure, with it
also : the clothing business, which had been carried
on to an extent, almost unequalled in the kingdom,
had, at the middle of the last century, become
wholly neglected ; and it was not till 20 or 25 ypars
ago, that the manufacture was revived. At the
Dissolution, the abbey buildings were sold by
Henry VIII. to one Stump, who converted them
into a weaving-shop ; but permitted the celebration
of divine service in the nave of the church. — The
history of the town itself is chequered with several
reverses oi its accustomed good fortune : it was
.twice burned by the Danes ; Prince Henry, after-
wards Henry II. took it on his invasion ; and, in
the 17th century, it was taken by storm by a par-
liamentary brigade, under Colonel Massie. — The.
borough, one of the most ancient in the island, was
incorporated about A. D. 916, by Edward the Elder ;
the charter, granted by Athelstan, in confirmation
of that of his father, is extant, and has been re-
newed by many succeeding monarchs since the Con-
quest ; Charles I. granted new privileges, making
the corporation to consist of an alderman, twelve
capital burgesses, and twenty-four assistants ;. and,
after a temporary suspension of their chartered
rights, by Charles II. and William III., Lord
Wharton procured for the burgesses a new and still
more ample character, than any they before enjoyed.
This added to the limits of the ancient borough, the
parishes of St. Paul Malmsbury, St. Mary West-
pool, and the precincts of the monastery, called
Abbey-parish ; it gave the right of using a common
seal
47-2
WILTSHIRE.
seal ; regul.i ted the election of former officers, directed
ihe appointment of a high steward, whose duty it is
to act as counsellor to the corporation ; and consti-
tuted the aldermen, high-steward, and their deputies,
justices of the peace ; with many other privileges.
Since the reign of Edward I. Malmsbnry has sent
two members to parliament, the privilege of electing
whom is vested in the aldermen and the capital
burgesses. The principal manor or lordship of
Malmsbury, after having belonged to the well-
known Duke Wharton, wns purchased, in 1750, by
Sir John Rushout, the relict of whose descendant,
Lord Northick, is the present proprietor. — Malms-
bury is composed of three principal streets ; two
of which, High Street and Silver Street, run in a
parallel direction, and are crossed by the third,
Oxford Street, near their northern extremities. A
fourth considerable range begins near the site of
the monastery, and is thence called Abbey Street.
There were formerly several churches ; but only
one remains, St. Mary's of Westport, built within
the last 150 years. There are, however, several
places of public worship for dissenters. The cha-
ritable institutions are two alms-houses, two free-
schools, and a Sunday school. Among the interest-
ing and splendid remains of antique grandeur, to
be found at Maluisbury, the Abbey church stands
the most prominent : its large proportions, heavy
masonry, and exquisitely curious decoration, entitle
it to a rank among the earliest, perhaps the best
specimens of old English architecture. The pre-
vailing style in its arches, columns, and ornaments,
is the Anglo-Norman, at the period of the introduc-
tion of what is peculiarly denominated the English,
or pointed. A discriminating writer places the
«poch of its erection in the age of Roger, Bishop
of Sarum. The existing remains comprise the nave,
its aisles, parts of the transept, and a large perch
on the southern side, exhibiting three or four varie-
ties of style, of which the perfectly semicircular
arch is seen in the west front ; the intersecting arches
form an ornamental facing to the whole lower ex-
terior of the church ; the pointed arches, springing
from massive columns, are found on each side of
the nave ; and above them, is a tier of broad semi-
circular arches, each embracing four others, and
surmounted by pointed windows, with mullions and
tracery. L'.'land, who visited Malmsbury in the
reigitof Henry VIII. describes " two Steples, one
that had a mightie high pyramh, and felle daunge-
rusly, in huniiniim memoria, and sins was not re-
edified ; it stode in the middle of the Trunseptum of
the Chircbe, and was a Marke to al the Countre
about, the other yet standith, a great square Toure
at the Weste Ende of the Chirche." Both these
Lave disappeared, as indeed have five-sixths of the
whole edifice, and the remainder will, ere long, have
* He held the double office, of precentor and librarian to
his monastery ; and in his latter capacity was enabled, by the
rommaiid of ancient manuscripts which he possessed, to write
also passed away. The varied arcades, mouldings,
and windows of the western front, must, in their
perfect state, have given it a very rich and orna-
mented appearance. Two of the arches on which
the central tower, with its " pyratuis," rested, re-
main, peculiarly lofty and grand. In these, the
mouldings of the arcliivault do not spring from the
capitals, but rise more than six feet perpendicularly,
and then, rapidly converging, form an arch of the
horse-shoe shape; that is, rather semi-elliptical than
semicircular. The southern porch, consisting of
an exterior and interior door-way, exhibits on the
former eight mouldings, enriched with trellis work,
interlacing rings, and sculptured figures in basso-
relievo ; on the inner arch, a representation of the
Deity ; and on eacli of its sides, six large figures,
•supposed to represent the apostles. Of all the
monuments erected to the memory of princes and
prelates, who were interred within the walls of
Malmsbury Church, one alone remains, which i*
commonly ascribed to Athelstan : it supports effi-
gies in royal robes, said to be his, probably from
its resemblance to his figure on the celebrated seal.
Some monuments of inferior note, however, are to
found. — A building called the Abbot's House re-
mains, the approach to which is by a gateway, on
which is a coat of arms, v,<\i\\feurs-de-lis on each side.
The Market-cross, built in the reign of Henry VII.
is " a right, fair, and costly peace of workmanship,
in the market- place, made al of stone, and curiously
voulted for poure market-folkes, to stand dry when
rayne cummeth. There be 8 gret pillars, and 8
open arches ; and the work is 8 square. One gret
pillar in the middle beareth up the Youlte." So
Leland. Its richly ornamented turret is octangular,
with a small niche on each side, filled with figures
in basso-relievo ; among which, the Crucifixioa is
discernible. — Some other remains of antiquity hare
been spared by the hand of time, and the more
barbarous hand of human spoliation. These are,
the ruins of St. Paul's Church ; a building, called
the Chapelrhouse, supposed to have been the chapel
of a nunnery ; the White Lion Inn, conjectured to
have been the liospitium of the monastery, ;. and in
the corporation alms-houses a curious arch, the relic
of an hospital dedicated to St. John of Jerusalem.
There are said to be remains of other religious
houses, and even of the castle, but their genuine-
ness is extremely doubtful. — In biography, Malms*
bury claims the distinction of having given birth to
Oliver of Malmsbury, a monk of the llth century,
who wrote an abstract of practical mathematics, and
astrology, and is said to have invented wings, on
the principles of the parachute, with which he flew
from a tower, but broke his legs, by falling after he
had advanced a furlong ; William of Malmsbury,*
one of the most celebrated of our English historians,
several hooks, concerning the history ot the ages, preceding
hh own, from the arrival of the Saxons in England ; with some
local and personal notices of great value.
said
WILTSHIRE.
473
said by some to have been a native of Somcrsetshirr,
but certainly educated in the monastery here, of
which he became a member ; Thomas Ilobbes,* a
philosophical and political writer of the 17th cen-
tury ; and Mary Chandler, born in 1637, the
daughter of a dissenting minister, who wrote seve-
ral poetical pieces of merit, was honoured with the
friendship of Mrs. Rowe, and the Countess of Hert-
ford, and died in 1745.
At the distance of a mile from Malmsbury, on
the south, is a rising ground, called Cam's Hill,
on which are two small earth- works, both square ;
and, in an adjoining field, called Burnt Ground, is
another, of a circular shape. Malmsbury Common,
westward from the town, is an extensive tract of
ground, covered with furze, on which each freeman
has the liberty of turning a horse or cow, and of
cutting the I'urze for fuel.
Charlton Park, situated northward from Malms-
bury, is the seat of the Earl of Suffolk, a grand
structure of freestone, with four fronts. Of the
interior, the most remarkable part is the gallery,
the ceiling of which is stuccoed. Here are por-
traits of the first Earl of Elgin, Charles I. and II. ;
Lady Mary Davis, Richard Sackville, Earl "of
Dorset, and Sir Edward Sackville, his brother ;
the Earl of Essex and his Countess ; Admiral
Drake, in armour, and others ; mostly by Vandyck
and Lely.
MARDEN.] — Marden, a village, three miles from
Vpbaven, is regarded by some writers as the field
of a bloody battle, fought in 871, between Ethelred I.
and the Danes, in which the former was defeated,
and mortally wounded. In the vicinity, is a large
tumulus, eighty yards in diameter, and thirteen or
fourteen high ; which, on being opened, in 1768, was
found to contain some human bones, stags' horns,
&c.
MARLBOROUGH.]— Marlborough, 27 miles N. by E.
from Salisbury, and 75 W. by S. from London, is
a borough and market-town, the origin of which,
concealed in impenetrable obscurity, has been
by some referred to the Roman era, by others to
Saxon times ; but the conjecture, most plausible,
as being supported by the absence of all notice on
the subject, is, that it was founded after the Con-
quest, when one of the many castles, built for the
security of the realm, was placed there. This
castle, being a fortress of some value, was alter-
nately possessed by the numerous factions who de-
solated the kingdom, till the reign of Henry III.
when (all aotice ceasing) it is probable that it was
dismantled. Its site is now occupied by a large
* Hobbes was a native of Westport-juxta-Malmsbnry, and
was born in 1588. He studied and took his bachelor's degree
at Magdalen Hall, Oxford, became tutor of William, Lord
Cavendish, and afterwards translated Thucydides with success.
In 1637, be made the tour of Europe for the third time ; and
in 1641, on the appearance of a rupture between the king and
parliament, he withdrew to Paris, where he startled divines,
.moralists, and politicians, by his, " Elements Philosophies de
TOL. IT. — NO. 175.
inn, in the garden of which is a large conical
mount, the foundation of the keep. King John, and
mnny succeeding monarchs, granted charters, by
virtue of which the town is governed by a mayor,
two justices, twelve aldermen, and twenty-four bur-
gesses. It is a borough by prescription, having
sent members to parliament ab initio. These are
elected by the mayor and burgesses only. — Marl-
borough consists, chiefly, of one long street, irregu-
larly formed by houses of all sizes, shapes, and
materials. In the centre is the market- house, a
singular erection, in which the annual county ses-
sions, and the courts of the town, are held. Near
this is the old church of St. Mary, the tower of
which has a doorway, adorned with zig-zag and
chevron mouldings. St. Peter's is situated at the
west end of the main street, adorned with a high
square tower, and supported, within, by light pil-
lars'. Besides these parochial churches, there are,
in Marlborough, several meeting -houses for dis-
senters. Here is also a charity-school, which was
founded and endowed in 1712, for forty-four poor
boySj with a revenue, now amounting, in landed
property, alone to more than 600/. per annum ; and
a prison, which serves the double purpose of a
county-bridewell, and a town- gaol. The monastic
institutions which once belonged to this town were,
a priory, a house of White Friars, and two hospitals,
dedicated to St. John and St. Thomas. — Several
individuals of eminent merij; have derived their
honorary titles from the town of Marlborough : —
James Ley, Lord Chief Justice of the Court of
King's Bench, and Lord High Treasurer of Eng-
land, under Jamps I. was created Earl of Marl-
borough, which title became extinct in the fourth,
who enjoyed it. It was revived in the person of
John, Lord Churchill, who was afterwards advanced
to the dignity of a Duke, and was succeeded by
his daughter Henrietta ; who was succeeded by her
nephew, Charles Spencer, eldest son of the Earl
of Sunderland, by Anne, the first duke's second
daughter. This nobleman died, after a short, but
brilliant, military career, at Minister, in Westphalia ;
and was succeeded by his son George. — The biogra-
phy of Marlborough presents the following cele-
brated names : Henry of Marlborough, John and
Obadiah Sedgewick, Christopher Fowler, John
Hughes, Henry Sacheverell, and Walter Harte.
Henry of Marlborough, born in the 14th century,
was the author of seven books of annals, in Latin ;
John Sedgewick, born about 1600, was rector of
St. Alphage, London, published a book against
Antinomianisin, and several sermons of the same
Give," and was forced to return homo. He died in 1679, at
the age of ninety-two. His principal work is the " Leviathan,"
in which he fully illustrates the principles, which he had but
sketched before. He was a great favourite with Charles 1.,
but, nevertheless, correct and virtuous in his private character.
His system of ethics, and political laws, has been made the
groundwork of many succeeding on*».
6 u tendency ;
474
WILTSHIRE.
tendency ; his brother, Obadiali, was minister of St.
Paul's, Co vent Garden, and published some works
on doctrinal questions ; Christopher Fowler, born
in 1610, was, at first, a minister, in the established
church, but afterwards joined the Presbyterians,
obtained the vicarage of St. Mary's, Reading, and
was assistant to the commissioners for ejectments ;
but, at the Restoration, was himself ejected for non-
conformity ; afterwards became deranged in his
intellects, and died in 1676. John Hughes * was
born in 1677. Henry Sacheverell, a student and
fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford, is noted only
for two discourses, which he delivered before the
Lord Mayor of London, and for which he was sus-
pended from the exercise of his ministerial functions,
during three years. Walter Harte, a poet and his-
torian of the last century, wrote " The Amaranth,"
a poem ; a " History of Gustavus Adolphus," and
other respectable works ; and died in 1773.
MELCHETT PARK.]— Melcbett, or Milshet Park,
the seat of John Osborne, Esq. is to be noticed,
chiefly, for the beautiful Hindu temple, erected as
a tribute to th£ worth of Governor Hastings. Its
area is 22 feet by 15 ; its height 20 feet, and its
roof, pyramidal, and surmounted by a sort of flat-
tened ball. The decorations are in strict keeping
with the chaste style of Hindti architecture, observed
in the erection. Within, the bust of Hastings ap-
pears, rising out of the sacred lotus, and is thus
subscribed : " Sacred to the Genii of India, who
from time 'to time assume Material Forms to pro-
tect its Nations and its Laws. Particularly to the
immortal Hastings, who in these our days has ap-
peared the Saviour of those Regions to the British
Empire, this fane was raised by John Osborne,
in respect to his pre-eminent Virtues, in the year
MDCCC."
MELKSHAM.] — Melkshara, a considerable market
and manufacturing town, (28| 'miles N. W. by N.
from Salisbury, and 95J W. by S. from London)
irregularly built on the side of an eminence which
borders the Avon, is of high antiquity ; having been
a royal borough, at an early period. The church,
a large and spacious edifice, with a tower in the
centre, is, probably, as early a date as the 12th cen-
tury, and contains monuments of the Audreys, and
the Selfs. A manufacture of cloth, carried on here,
had risen to a point of perfection, productive of
great prosperity to the place, before the reign of
Henry VIII., when it declined. It rose again,
during the beneficent government of his successor ;
but it is again falling, and may soon disappear. —
* This poet and moral writer received his education in
London ; and first distinguished himself by an Ode on the
Peace of Ryswick, the success of which induced further at-
tempts. He was the author of some papers in the Spectator,
Taller, and Guardian, and edited a splendid edition of the
works of Spencer. His last literary work was the tragedy of
the Siege of Damascus, on the first night of representing which,
February 17, 1720, he expired, at the age of forty-three.
At half a mile from the town, were lately discovered
t\vo mineral springs, which, on being examined,
. were found to be a strong chalybeate, and a saline
i aperient : equal in efficacy to the far-famed spas
of Cheltenham and Leamington. At least, persons,
: resident in Melksham, have been greatly benefited
i by their use ; and, as the surrounding country
! abounds in agreeable scenery, it is probable, that,
| under judicious management, the Melksham springs
might vie in celebrity with those of Cheltenham.
Here is an old mansion, now the property of the
| Misses Thresher ; and, at the distance of two miles.
: is Shaw- hill House, the seat of R. Heathcote, Esq.
| a modern edifice, surrounded by pleasure-grounds.
MERE.] — Mere, a small market- town, situated
1 near the borders of Somersetshire and Dorsetshire,
I 23 miles W. by N. from Salisbury, had, in the
Norman era, a castle, traces of which are yet dis-
tinguishable, on an eminence, called Castle Hill. The
buildings are ill-arranged, and indifferently formed ;
except the church, which is spacious, and has a
handsome square tower, at the west end. — A cele-
brated native of this place was Francis, Lord Cot-
tington, who was created, first, a baronet by James I.
and, afterwards, a baron by his successor. He was
also advanced to the offices of Lord Treasurer and
Master of the Court of Wards, and was several
times sent ambassador to the Court of Spain ; where
he died about 1651. Francis Potter, celebrated for
his nTechanical genius, was also born here, in 1594 ;
and, having taken orders, retired to his rectory of
Kilmington, in Devonshire, where he made, in the
course of his studies, some valuable discoveries ia
the construction of the hydraulic machine ; and
wrote his principal work, which is intituled, " An
Interpretation of the Apocalyptic Number 666." He
died in 1768. North-westward from Mere, is an en-
campment, defended by treble ditches and ramparts ;
in area, about fifteen acres ; and supposed, by Sir R.
Hoare, to have been constructed by the Britons.
MiDBLE-WooDFORD.]— Near Middle- Woodford,
on the west, is a small earth-work, of a square form,
slightly circumvallated ; and, on a neighbouring hill,
are the indicia of a British settlement, in form an
irregular circle, scattered over with barrows. Heale
House, near this eminence, was formerly a seat of the
Hyde family, and afforded an asylum to Charles II.
after the battle of Worcester.
MILSTON.] — Milston is distinguished as being the
birth-place of Addisonf, whose father, the Rev.
Launcelot Addison, was rector of the parish.
MINTE.] — Minte, or Minty, a large parish which
belongs
f This elegant and instructive writer was born in 1672, and,
having received the rudiments of classical knowledge at the
Charter House School, London, took his degrees at Magdalen
College, Oxford. Having', by the interest of Sir John Somers,
obtained a pension of 300/. per annum, he made the tour of
Italy ; and having produced his " Campaign," in celebration
of the victories of Marlborough, he was created a commissioner
of appeals. In 1709, he was secretary to the Marquis of Whar-
ton,,
WILTSHIRE.
belongs to Gloucestershire, having its church ant
a range of buildings in Malmsbury hundred, is en-
titled to notice under the head of Wiltshire. The
church, which consists of a nave, two aisles, and a
chancel, is in the pointed style of architecture, ant
contains several monumental memorials, among
which is one, in honour of Charles Pleydell, who diet
in 1704; and another, to commemorate Nicholas
Powlett, whose arms prove him to have been alliec
to the Hnngerfords.
MONKTON-DEVERFLL.] — Moiiktofl-Dcverill, (on
the eastern side of Bidcombe Hill,) supposed to have
derived the first part of its designation from the
existence of a monastic institution, is celebrated,
chiefly, for the residence there of John White, who,
on being ejected from his living by Cromwell's
commissioners, practised medicine, and wrote some
volumes of poems. He died at Cherton, in 1671.
MONKTON-FARLEY.] — At the small village ol
Monkton Farley, westward from Wraxhall, a con-
Tent of Cluniac monks was established about 1125,
the revenues of which, at the Dissolution, amounted
to 153/. 14*. 2d. In the ruins of this priory several
tdmbs were discovered, about 1744, on one of which
was the mutilated effigies of a man, with the figure
of a lion at its feet ; another was inscribed to the
memory of a prior Lawrence, and another, which
has been since conveyed to Lacock Abbey, had this
inscription, on a brass-plate.
flic jacet Ilbertus de Cai bonitate refeftus,
Sui cum Brontona dedit hie perplurima dona.
Monkton-Farley House it the seat of John Long,
Esq. ; and Warley House, of Colonel Skrine.
NETHER-HAVEN.] — Nether-Haven, so colled to
distinguish it from Uphaven, or Upper-Haven, is a
small village on the Avon, where is a seat, which
now belongs to Hicks Beach, Esq.
NEWTON-TONY.] — In the parish of Newton-Tony,
which appears to have obtained its suffix from a
family who resided there, is Wilbury House and
demesne, the seat of Sir Charles Warre Malet,
Bart. This picturesque and fertile residence, taken
from the dreary and barren downs of Salisbury, has
been, by the efforts- of human skill, covered with
timber anil luxuriant vegetation ; abounding in
various kinds of fir, oaks, elms, ashes, &c. The
house, built of stone, consists of a centre and two
corresponding wings ; and is adapted, rather to the
suitable accommodation of a family, than to archi-
tectural effect.
NEWNTON.>— Newnton, or Long Newton, two
miles north-westward from Brokenborough, is a
village of great antiquity, being mentioned by its
ancient name Newantune, above a century before
ton, then lord-lieutenant of Ireland, and assisted his friend
Steele in conducting the Tatler. On his return to England,
he engaged m the Spectator, the grand monument of his fame,
the Guardian, the Freeholder, and other periodical works ; and
in 1713, he produced the Tragedy of Cato. He married in
the Conquest. In order to commemorate a dona-
tion of land, made by King Athelstan, and thenionks-
of Malmsbury, to the inhabitants, the latter long
observed certain ceremonies on Trinity Sunday,
which appear curious and extraordinary. In the
morning, a procession was made to a place called
the Hayward's House, where a bell was rung, and
thanksgivings were offered to God for the disposi-
tion of heart which had prpmpted the donors to the
benefaction. " As soon as prayers were ended, a
young maid of Long Newton, with a garland of
flowers, and a young man, a bachelor, of a different
parish, entered the house ; and each kissed the other
three times in the name of the Father, Son, and
Holy Ghost. This done, the youth took the gar-
land from the maid's hand, and gave her in return
a small piece of money. In the evening, the pa-
rishioners commonly sent meat for a supper, for
which they had previously prepared a barrel of ale
at their joint expence ; and, having regaled them-
selves heartily, gave the rest to the poor."
NORTH WRAXHALL.] — The manor of North Wrax-
hall formerly belonged to the family of Methuen,
several members of which have monuments in the
church. At two miles, northward, from the village,,
is a small, single ditched encampment, usually at-
tributed to the Romans.
OAKSEY.] — Oaksey church, a building of great
antiquity, consists of a nave, two side aisles, and
a chancel ; the latter separated from the rest, by &
massive, circular arch. The windows retain some
specimens of finely stained glass, and several of the
pews are rudely sculptured. In a field, near the
church, is a sqnare area, enclosed by a deep moat,
and fortified by a large mount at one of its angles.
The parish adjoins Curdwell, on the N. E.
OGBOURN ST. GEORGE.] — Ogbourn St. George,
a small village, four miles northward from Marl-
borough, is noted, as the site of a priory, which
was founded about 1149, by Maud de Wallingford,
and given, with the manor and church, to the Abbey
of Bee Herlowin in Normandy. This priory, hav-
ing become the richest cell in England, was seized
by Henry V. during the French war ; and, finally,
suppressed in the second year of his reign. Within
the parish, on the summit of one of the Downs, is
a circular British entrenchment, defended by out-
works, resembling half-moons. This place is re-
corded, as the scene of an engagement fought by the
Britons and Saxons in 556, when the latter were
victorious, and added Wiltshire to their growing
dominion.
OLDBURY. — Oldbury Camp, or Castle, supposed
by many antiquaries to be the entrenchment to which
the Danes- retired after the battle of Ethandune, oc_
1716, the Countess of Warwick, and, in the following year, was
appointed one of the secrr taries of state to George I. He soon,
however, solicited his dismission, and shortly afterwards wat
attacked by an asthmatic complaint, which terminated his life in
June 1719.
cupies
476
WILTSHIRE.
-eiipicsthc summit of an eminence near Chcrill. Its
form is irregularly quadrangular, defended, where
Hot secure by nature, with a double ditch audio fty
ramparts ; with a single entrance eastward, and a
deep ditch, bisecting it almost equally. On the
slope is the figure of a white horse, in a trotting
attitude, executed about fivo-and-thirty years ago,
by order of Ur. Alsop, of Cahie.
POULTOK.] — At Poulton, or. Pulton, a consider-
able parish environed by Gloucestershire, a priory
was founded in the time of Edward III. by Thomas
St. Maur, or Seymour, and annexed, as a cell, to
<he priory of Sempringham, Lincolnshire. At the
Dissolution, it contained no more than the prior
and three monks, whose revenues were valued at
20/. 3s. Zd.
PUESHUTE.] — At a short distance front Marlbo-
rough, is the village church of Preshute, a small,
but ancient, edifice, remarkable, chiefly, for its font,
formed from a single block of stone, which some
say is touchstone ; some, agate ; and others, gr< y
marble. — On Folly Farm, a large earth-work, in
the area of which, ancient foundations have been
discovered, is incontestibly proved to have been
the Roman station Cunetio.
PURTON.] — The village of Purton, four miles
S. from Cricklade, though small, contains several
respectable buildings, among which the church is
remarkable for the monuments of the Maskelynes,
ancestors of the late Astronomer Royal.
RAMSBUUY.] — Ramsbury,six miles E. from Marl-
borough, when Wiltshire was constituted a bishop-
ric, was the seat of the first two bishops ; and its
church probably continued to be the cathedral till
after the Conquest ; being still regarded as the
mother church to Salisbury Cathedral. It is a large
and spacious structure, composed of a nave, two
aisles, and a chancel, with a massive tower. In the
chancel is an old monument, of Purbeck stone,
without inscription ; and, on the floor, a long stone
adorned with tracery work. Here are, likewise,
monuments of the Jones', Reads, and Dariclls. —
•Ramsbury Manor, a handsome building on the
Kennet, long the seat of the Jones', now belongs
to Sir Francis Burdett, Baronet; Crawood is the
«eat of General Read ; and Marriage-hill House
formerly belonged to the Whitelockes.
SALISBURY, OLD SARUM, &c.] — The City of
Salisbury, or New Sarum, 83 miles S. W. by W.
from London, is situated in a valley, near the con-
flux of the Avon, Nadder, and VVilley, which divide
themselves into small streams, and are conducted
through, and water, the streets; a circumstance which
tends much to promote the health of the inhabitants,
by occasioning a more free circulation of air, and
by carrying off the filth which might otherwise
accumulate upon so level a situation. The streets
of this city are wide and regular, and at right angles
with each other. The market-place is a very open
square, and the whole appearance of the place is
particularly agreeable. The ancient Sorbwdunum,
or Old Sarum, about a mile to the north, gave ris«
to the present city. The name is supposed to be
derived from a British compound word, signifying u
dry situation ; and the Saxons, who called it Seary-
slnjrie, seem to have a reference to the same circum-
stance, Scarnn in the Saxon language, signifying to
dry. Leland supposes Sorbiodunum to have been
a British post, previously to the arrival of the Ro-
mans, with whom it became a principal station, or
Custra Stativa. In addition to the evidence of the
itineraries, and the several ancient roads which here
concentrate, the great number of coins found within
its limits, sufficiently prove its occupation as a place
of consequence, by the Romans. Some of the Roman
Emperors are said to have resided at Old Sarum.
Leland mentions this place, as having been very
ancient and exceedingly strong. It occupies the
summit of a steep and lofty hill, which originally
rose equally on all sides to a point. The area was
nearly 2000 feet in diameter, surrounded by a deep
Ibsse, or ditch, and two ramparts, some remains of
which are yet visible. On the inner rampart stood
a wall, nearly twelve feet thick, of Hint and chalk
strongly cemented, cased with hewn stone, and sur-
mounted by a parapet, with battlements. Of this
wall some remains are to be seen, on the north-west
side. In the centre of the area, rose the summit of
the hill, on which stood a castle, surrounded by a
deep intrenchment, and a high rampart. Beneath,
stood the city, divided into equal parts, north and
south. Near the middle of each division was a gate,
forming the two grand entrances, .directly opposite
to each other, each having a tower and a mole of
great strength before it. There were also two other
towers, in every quarter, at equal distances, quite
round the city ; and, opposite to them, in a straight
line with the castle, were the principal streets, in-
tersected,in the middle,by one grand circular street.
In the north-west angle, stood the cathedral and
episcopal palace ; the former, according to Bishop
Godwin, was consecrated in an evil hour; for, the
very next day,the steeple was set on fire by lightning.
The foundations of these buildings are still to be
traced, but the site of the whole city has been
ploughed over. Leland observes, that " without
each of the gates of Old Sarum, was a fair suburb,
and in the east suburb a parish church of St. John,
and thereon a chapel, yet standing. There had been
houses,in time of mind, inhabited in the east suburb ;
but there is not one within or without the city. There
was a parish church of the Holy Rood, in Old Sa-
resbyrie, and another over the gate, whereof some
tokens remain." — Mr. Wyndham, in 1772, found,
close to the London road, east of his house, and
St. Edmund's Church, and at a small distance from
the site of Old Sarum, the upper part of a casque
about six inches in diameter ; the rim of which had
two or three flat buttons of brass, which served as
rivets for several chains or straps of the same metal,
over the temples, pretty entire, and a scull in it ;
another casque, an incU, less ; a sword blade, two
inches
WILTSHIRE.
.177
inches broad, three feet long, with the cross bars
of the handle ; two long spears' heads, and many
bones, of the human frame.
King Kenric, or Cynric, resided at Old Sarum ;
and about the middle of the 10th century, iu the
reign of Edgar, a great council was summoned
thither by that prince, whrn several important
laws were enacted. In the year 1003, the place
was plundered and burnt by Sweine, the Danish
king, in revenge of the massacre committed on his
countrymen the preceding year. Sarum, however,
was rebuilt, and became so flourishing, that the
bishop's see was removed thither from Sherborne,
and the second of its bishops built a cathedral.
William the Conqueror summoned all his states of
the kingdom hither to swear s'.liegiance to him, and
several of his successors often resided here. In
1116, Henry I. ordered all the bishops, abbots, and
barons, to meet here. — The first prelude to the fall
of Old Sarum, was a quarrel between King Stephen
and Bishop Roger, the latter of whom espoused the
cause of the Empress Maud, which so enraged the
king, that he seized the castle, and placed a governor
and garrison in it. This violation of the rights of
the church occasioned frequent'differences between
the military and the monks and citizens ; the issue
of which was, that the bishop and canons determined
to remove ,to some place where they might be less
disturbed, having in vain applied to the king for
redress. — Perhaps the complaints of the citizens
might, and ought to have been attended to ; but those
of the monks were of a different nature. It was their
practice to visit the nuns, at Wilton, where they
often remained till late ; which being known to the
soldiers, they concealed themselves near the gate
of the abbey till their return, when they diverted
themselves at the expence of the ecclesiastics. The
difference between the soldiers and the monks is
ludicrously noticed in a ballad, written by Dr. Pope,
chaplain to Seth Ward, Bishop of Salisbury, in the
reign of Charles II. ; commencing as follows : — •
Oh ! Salisbury people, give ear to my song,
And attention to my new ditty ;
For it is in praise of your River Avon,
Of your Bishop, your Church, and your City.
And your May'r and Aldermen, all on a row,
Who govern that watered mead ;
First listen awhile upon your tip-toe,
Then carry this home and read.
Old Sarum was built, on a dry barren hill,
A great many years ago,
'Twas a Roman Town, of strength and renown ;
As its stately ruins show.
Therein was a castle, for men and arfns,
And a cloister for men of the gown,
There were friars, and monks, and liars, and punks,
Tho' not any whose names are come down.
The soldiers and churchmen did not long agree,
For the surly men with the hilt ony
Made sport at the gate, with :ln- monks that came late,
From confessing ihe nuns at Wilton.
From the time that Stephen put a garrison irrto
the castle, Old Sarum began to decay.
VOL. iv. — NO. 175.
The removal of the see was originally projected
by Bishop Herbert, in the reign of Richard II.,
but the king dying before it could be effected, and
the turbulent reign of John ensuing, the plan was not
carried into execution until the reign of Henry HI.,
when Bishop Richard Poore fixed upon the site or
the present cathedral, and translated the see. The
inhabitants of Old Sarum speedily followed, being
intimidated by the insolence of the garrison, and
suffering great inconveniencs through the want of
water. Old Sarum was, at length, entirely desert-
ed ; and at present there is only one building left
within the precincts of the ancient city. However,
it is still called the borough of Old Sarum, and
sends two members to parliament, who are chosen
by the proprietors of certain adjacent lands.
The foundation of the present cathedral was laid
by Bishop Richard Poore, in May, T2'20. Large
contributions were raised from most parts of the
kingdom for building in it ; but, as they were not
sufficient to defray the expence, the bishop issued
an order to all the priests in his diocese, to remind
dying persons of a charitable contribution to this
fabric. Thus it was finished in thirty-nine years,
and consecrated on the 30th of November, 1258,
in the presence of Henry III. and the principal
nobility. The cathedral is one of the most elegant
and regular Gothic structures in the kingdom. The
exterior has been thought by some rather too plain
for this species of architecture ; but the proportions
are so excellent, and the whole so pleasing, that its
very simplicity constitutes one of its most beautiful
characteristics. The body is supported by ten pointed
arches on each side, resting on clusters of light pillars.
Each transept has three such arches, forming as many
chapels. Between the choir and presbytery is a
second transept on each side with two arches. The
cross aisle exceeds, in beauty, every other in the
kingdom. From the centre of the roof, 116 feet
high, rises a fine spire of freestone, 410 feet from
the ground, and esteemed the highest in the king-
dom.— The dimensions of the cathedral are, in
length, from east to west, 478 feet ; of which the
choir is 220, the body and side aisles are 76, and
the whole breadth of the cross aisle, 210 feet.
" As many days as in one year there be,
So many windows in this church you see;
As many marble pillars here appear,
As there are hours throughout the fleeting year;
As many gates as moons one here does view,
Strange tale to tell ! yet not more strange than true."
The tower has sixteen lights ; four on each side.
— The west front and buttresses all round, have
been filled with statues. On the north side of the
church, is a strong- bdilt tower, in which are the
bells of the cathedral, except one in the spire,
which is rung when the bishop comes to the choir.
There was formerly a spire upon this tower. — The
spire of the cathedral, placed at the intersection of
the nave and the principal transept, rests on a hand-
6 £ some
479
WILTSHIRE.
some tower, which, exhibiting a more elaborate
style of Gothic workmanship, has been supposed to
be considerably posterior in its date to the body of
the church. " There is a patent of the first year of
King Henry VI. 1423," says Dugdale, (he author
of the Baronetage, " which recites that the stone
tower standing in the middle of Salisbury cathedral
is become ruinous, and empowers the dean and
chapter to appropriate 50/. annually for repairs.
This in those days was a considerable sum ; and I
think an inference may be fairly drawn that the
repair was made, and the tower rebuilt with the
addition of a spire. The higher and greater part of
the present tower is evidently engrafted on a work
of an older and simpler construction. I suppose
this new tower and spire to have been finished not
later than the year 1429 ; for in that year Sir Wal-
ter Hungerford had license from the king to appro-
priate the great tithes of Oricklade, and the rever-
sion of the manor of Cricklade, called Abingdon's
Court, to the Dean and Chapter of Salisbury cathe-
dral, to maintain the tall spire-steeple of that fabric
in repair." — The walls of the spire are about two
feet in thickness at the base ; and gradually decrease
until at the top they are scarcely seven inches.
This beautiful ornament to the cathedral has, at
different times, been damaged by lightning. In
1668, it was proposed by Dr. Burnet, the then
bishop, to take it down ; but, upon a survey, Sir
Christopher Wren disapproved of the motion, and
directed that it should be strengthened with bands
of iron plates, which have so effectually answered
the design, that it is said to be much stronger now
than when it was first erected. This is thought to
be the best piece of smith's work, and the most ex-
cellent mechanism of any thing in Europe of its age.
Seven bandages hoop, as it were, the spire together,
besides one round its basement at the eight doors
opposite the parapet of the tower. The tower is
twenty-three inches from a perpendicular ; occa-
sioned, probably, by a settlement before it was com-
pleted. Mr. Wyatt states, "that the south-west
pier is sunk seven or eight inches, and the north-
west half as much ; this has occasioned the leaning
of the-tower and spire to the south-west." The two,
however, are admirably bound together by arches
and counter-arches, inside and outside ; and the
winding stairs in each of the corner piers of the
tower, and the tabernacles with four door-ways in
the spire, all contribute to make it as durable as the
nature of its materials will admit. The roo'f is esti-
mated to contain 2641 tons of oak timber, and under
it are six or seven cisterns of water in case of fire.
—A dreadful storm, on the 25th of June 1741,
nearly devoted the whole building to destruction.
A flash of lightning, accompanied by a peculiar
crackling noise, was observed by several of the
inhabitants to strike against the tower, and to be
dissipated. The next morning, however, the sexton
perceived the reflection of a fire light on the upper
part of the building, and it was "soon found that
the flash of lightning noticed the preceding day had
set the structure on fire. By the immediate exer-
tions of some men who were then working in the
cloisters, and the ready assistance of the neighbour-
ing inhabitants, water was procured and brought to
the spot, so that in about two hours the fire was
completely extinguished.
Bishop Barrington, during the time of his filling
the see of Salisbury, caused the tomb-stones to be
removed from the church-yard, and the ditches
which surrounded it to be filled up ; converting
what was before disagreeably irregular and offen-
sive to the sight, into an elegant lawn, covered with
verdure, and shaded by venerable elms, which spread
their branches over various parts of the area ; so
that the cathedral is now seen to the greatest ad-
vantage, detached from human habitations and
incongruous buildings, nearly in the centre of the
close ; the principal buildings in which appertain to
different ecclesiastical establishments. — On the south
side of the cathedral is a noble cloister, 150 feet
square, with thirty large arches at each side, and a
Eavement thirty feet broad ; over it is the library,
egun by Bishop Jewell, and since much enlarged.
— The principal entrance is at the west end, " where
the inside of the fabric displays its beauty in a most
striking manner : the lightness and elegance of the
clustered columns, the symmetry and proportion
of the parts, and the grandeur of the whole, filling
the spectator with amazement. In surveying the
interior of this cathedral there is nothing to offend
the purest eye, but the washing of the roof: which,
though now reduced to one simple (stone) colour
over the choir, is, towards the west end, most injudi-
ciously daubed. It is greatly to be lamented, that,
during the late improvements, the funds did not
admit of rectifying a defect, which is become the
more glaring, from being contrasted with what
has undergone so advantageous an alteration. In
advancing to the part of the church just mentioned,
we are induced to admire the beauty and chastity
of its architecture more than at first ; the lightness
of the work, the regularity of its several propor-
tions, and above all, its harmony of style, excite a
pleasing astonishment." When the doors of the
choir are first thrown open, and the curtain drawn
aside, the effect is truly sublime ; nor is it weakened
on approaching. All the windows near the altar
being richly stained, diffuse an awful gloom, which
finely harmonizes with the general style of the build -
I ing ; and the conception and tone of colouring in
' the principal window are very impressive. The
i subject is the Resurrection, by Eginton, from a
• design by Sir Joshua Reynolds. It is twenty-three
j feet high, and is comprised in three compartments,
though there is only one figure, a full length of our
Saviour, surrounded by rays of glory, and a pro-
! fusion of bright clouds, with the three crosses on
| Calvary at a distance. Another of the windows, at
! the east end, contains a very fine dcsi»n, by Mor-
i timer, representing the elevation of the brazen ser-
pent,
WILTSHIRE.
pent, given to the cathedral, by the Earl of Radnor,
(whose arms are emblazoned in a compartment
above), in 1781. It was painted on the glass by
Mr. Pearson, and is 21 feet in height, and 17 feet
6 inches in width ; consisting of three compartments,
containing 21 figures, all finely executed. It is
very much to be regretted, that so fine a represen-
tation should be placed at such a distance that it is
impossible to discover half its beauties. In this part
of the building are seen the lofty and slender single-
shafted pillars so much the subject of remark. By
exciting a sorjt of confused idea of danger, they
heighten the awful impression of the scene.
Storer, in his " Description of the Cathedrals,"
alluding to the former state of this building, observes
as follows : — "Thanks to the liberality and taste of
Bishop Harrington, and to the talents of the late Mr.
Wyatt, all these defects were judiciously removed
in 1789, the cathedral -restored to its primitive sim-
plicity and beauty, while all the monuments of
ancient art were carefully preserved, and placed
in parts of the building more consonant with the
general harmony of the edifice. It is admitted by
Bentham to- be the only cathedral church which
never had any intermixture of styles, and cited by
Hawkins as the first instance of the pure and un-
mixed Gothic in England. The elegant buttresses,
which had been sacrilegiously cut away to gratify
private vanity,, are now all restored, and the exte-
rior proportions of the building are so admirably
adapted, the harmony of the parts so complete,
that it would be as wise to attempt improving the
figure of the human body, by adding or substract-
ing a limb, as to improve the external character of
Salisbury cathedral, by adding or substracting a
single part. Nor is its interior less admirably har-
monious in itself than the exterior. The same
unity of design and consonance of object, appear
throughout. The few monuments which were
necessarily removed, are placed in more proper
situations, between the pillars of the nave, or in
the aisles of the transept ; and all the ornaments in
the Beauchamp and Hungerford Chapels have been
judiciously appropriated to respectable purposes.
The vulgar Grecian screens, introduced by Sir
Christopher Wren, have been removed ; the Lady
chapel thrown into the chancel, the altar carried to
the east end of the building, and fitted up with
some of the finely sculptured Gothic niches found
in the chapels ; the episcopal throne, prebendal
stalls, and choir, are equaHn elegance and delicacy
of Gothic ornaments to any in the kingdom. The
screen at the entrance of the choir, the organ loft,
the slight elevation of the chancel, the slender yet
lofty columns, the mosaic painted windows, the dis-
tant prospect of the Saviour in the east window,
diffusing light as rising from his tomb, and over it
the upper eastern window, with the enchanting re-
presentation of the brazen serpent, all conspire to
give grandeur and sublimity ; to shed ' a dim reli-
gious light,' and dispose the mind to the exercise
of the highest and noblest of our niental faculties,
grateful adoration of the benign author of our ex-
istence."— To preserve this fine building, the dean
and chapter in 1808, set apart one-eighth of tbeic
fines for its repair ; but this being found insufficient,
a general chapter was held in 1813, where it was
determined to contribute two and a half per cent on
all fines for this purpose. The bishop and dean also
agreed to make a similar allowance from all the fines
of lauds attached to their respective dignities, as
well as their prebends. — The cloisters are in fine
preservation. The curious chapter-house, which
had particular stalls for the respective dignitaries,
suffered much from the rebellious fanatics. It is
octangular, supported by a slender central pillar,
i The floor is paved with glazed Norman tiles ; and,,
that the sculpture above the arches was graceful,
appears from three female heads on a capital in the
south-west corner. This building is 150 feet in
circumference, and the single pillar in the centre
being apparently too weak for its support, renders
the construction of the building an object of great
curiosity. — The organ, elegantly constructed to cor-
respond with the architecture of the cathedral, is
over the entrance of the choir, and as seen from
the altar produces a grand effect. This instrument,
which is a remarkably fine one, was a present from
his Majesty. It was built by the late Mr. Samuel
Green, of Isleworth, Middlesex.
Several curious monuments in the cathedral, par-
ticularly those of the Seymours, Dukes of Somer-
set, and their families, with those of Bishop Jewel,
and many others of the prelates of Salisbury, excite
notice. That which formerly attracted the most
attention, was one to the memory of Lord Stourton ;
who, in tlie reign of Philip and Mary, murdered one
of his tenants ; and, the crime being attended with
many aggravating circumstances of cruelty, he vva»
found guilty, during the recess of parliament, and
received sentence to be hanged ; which, as it is Ac-
corded, was executed with a silken halter, as the
only favour he could obtain. His friends applied to
the Bishop of Salisbury for leave to bury him in
this cathedral, which request the prelate refused <o
comply with, unless, as a mark of further infamy,
they would suffer the halter in which he had been
hanged to be placed over the monument. This con-
dition was complied with ; but after a time, the
friends of the deceased obtained permission to have
it removed. — There is in the church the figure of
one Bennet, a mad enthusiast, who, it is said, at-
tempted to imitate our Saviour in fasting forty days
and nights, and so strongly was he infatuated that
he stood out against all the pressing desires of nature,
till at last he perished.
Near the great west door, is a small piece of
sculpture, representing a boy, habited in clerical
robes, with a mitre on his head, a crosier in his
hand, and a monster, supposed to be a dragon, at
his feet. This is believed to be the monument of
a boy-bishop, so called from the custom of cele-
brating
480
WILTSHIRE.
brating St. Nicholas's festival, by children habited
as priests.
The remains of the celebrated James Harris, Esq.
father of Lord Malmsbury, and author of" Hermes,"
nnd several other learned works, are deposited in
the great transept. — A splendid monument, from the
chisel of Mr. Carline, sculptor, of Shrewsbury, com-
memorates Edward Poore, Esq. who died, May 19,
1780, and Raphael his wife, who died, June 16,
1771. He was a descendant from the founder of
the cathedral. This monument is one of the finest
specimens of florid Gothic in the kingdom, and ex-
hibits the style adopted in the period of Edward IV.
It was designed by the Rev. Hugh Owen, of Shrews-
bury, one of the prebendaries of Salisbury cathedral,
and harmonizes admirably with the general appear-
ance of the building. — Flaxman's figure of Bene-
volence, exhibiting the Good Samaritan, to com-
memorate W. B. Earle, is extremely interesting,
though the hands and the want of drapery have
been justly censured. The same artist's Gothic
monument to W. Long, Esq. is superior ; and the
canopy, screen, and the figures at each side, are
finely and correctly executed. Bacon's monument
Of the author of " Hermes," challenges the liveliest
admiration, for the exquisite delicacy and grace of
the figure, and for classical conception and execu-
tion of the whole piece. The medallion is a fine
profile of this admirable writer. The tablets record-
ing the demise of the dignitaries, have in general
little variety.
The Bishop's Palace, in the north-east corner of
the close, is an irregular and not very handsome
building externally. It however contains several
good rooms, and is agreeably surrounded by exten-
sive gardens. It was chiefly built by Bishop Beau-
champ.
The see of Salisbury, when first established at
Sherborne, in Dorsetshire, in 705, by Ina, king of
the West Saxons, comprised the whole district, now
divided into the bishoprics of Salisbury, Bristol,
Wells, and Exeter. Anciently the Bishops of Salis-
bury were precentors to the Archbishop of Canter-
bury ; and Edward IV. constituted them Chancellors
of the order of the Garter. The latter distinction,
with a few exceptions, they have enjoyed ever since
the reign of that monarch. — The diocese, at present,
contains all Wiltshire, except two parishes ; all
Berkshire, except one parish and a portion of
another ; and some part of Dorsetshire. The in-
come arising from it is computed to amount to about
8,500/. annually.
In the reign of Edward III. Robert Wyvil,
bishop of this see, sued William Montacute, Earl
of Salisbury, by writ of right, to recover the castle
and manor of Old Sarum ; but the earl, according
to the notions of chivalry in that age, pleaded that
lie would defend his title by single combat, to which
the bishop agreed. . Champions having been pro-
cured by both parties, atid the day of trial having
becu fixed, the bishop came into the field, on horse-
back, clothed in white to the mid-leg ; over his
robe was a surcoat, and behind him rode a knight
with his spear, and a page carrying his shield. The
carl's champion came into the field much in the same
manner ; when, after a short stay, they both retired
till the weapons they were to use in combat should
be first examined. During this space letters were
brought from the king, commanding both parties
to desist, till such time as inquiry could be made
whether he had not a right to the castle, prior to
either of the disputants. It does not appear, how-
ever, that any inquiry was made, as the earl sur-
rendered his whole right of the castle to the bishop
for the consideration of 2,500 marks.
The cathedral now has a bishop, a dean, a pre-
centor, a chancellor, three arch-deacons, a sub-dean,
a sub-chanter, 45 prebendaries, six vicars or petty
canons, six singing-men, eight choristers, an orga-
nist, &c.
In addition to the cathedral, there are three parish
churches in Salisbury ; the most ancient is that on
the west side of the market-place, dedicated to St.
Thomas a Becket, and originally built as a chapel
of ease to the cathedral. It is a large respectable
building, 130 feet within the walls, and 70 feet
broad, consisting of a spacious body, two aisles,
three chancels, and a vestry-room, with a quadran-
gular tower. On the south side of this church, are
two figures standing in niches : one said to represent
'the Virgin Mary and infant Jesus, the arms of the
cathedral ; and the other St. Thomas a Becket. On
the outer wall of the west end of this church, is a
mutilated wooden monument, representing in alto-
relievo the sfory of Abraham offering up Isaac,
Jacob's dream, his ladder, and sacrifice, and his
bargain about the striped and ringed cattle ; and in
another compartment Jacob with two shepherds,
one of them sitting, and the other leaning on a
rock. This seems to have been the workmanship
of a person determined it should become the monu-
ment to his memory after his decease ; for under-
neath the entablature, is the following inscription : —
" Here underneath lieth the body of Humphrey
Beckham, who died the 2d day of February, Anno
1671, aged 88, his own work." — Thus, in Salisbury,
when a man prides himself on any particular per-
formance, it is said, by way of banter, to be " Hum-
phrey Beckham's own work."
St. Edmund's Church, a handsome Gothic struc-
ture, was founded by Walter de la Wyle, Bishop of
Sarum, in 1268, in the north-east quarter of the city.
— The seat of Henry Penruddocke Wyndham, Esq.
is upon the site of a college of Secular Canons,
formerly annexed to St. Edmund's church. In this
church was a curious painted window, which was
the occasion of a suit carried on in the Star Cham-
ber against Henry Sberfield, Esq. the recorder of
the city, for damage done by him to the painted
glass. " In this window were finely represented
the six days' work of.the creation ;• in four different
lights or partitions. In several parts of it was the
figure
WILTSHIRE.
-481
figure of God the father, pourtraycd in blue and
red vests, like a little old man, the head, feet, and
hands naked ; in one place fixing a pair of com-
passes on the sun and moon. In other parts were
some blunders committed in point of chronology :
the Godhead was feigned creating the sun and moon
the third day, whereas it should be the fourth ; and
the trees and herbs on the fourth, instead of the
fifth ; and the creation of man (from whose side the
woman rises,) on the fifth, instead of the hist ; the
rest of the seventh day was represented by God the
father in a deep sleep." — Near the site of St. Ed-
mund's church, a bloody battle was fought between
Kenric, King of the West Saxons, and the Britons,
in 552, when the fortress of Old Sarum was gained
by the victorious Saxons. In 1771 a considerable
quantity of human bones, a large iron sword, the
heads of several pikes, the central pieces of shields,
with their brass bandages fixed to them, and other
remains, were discovered in a part of the college
gardens. To commemorate this circumstance, Mr.
Wyndham erected an inscribed urn near the spot.
St. Martin's church, on the highest ground in
Salisbury, nearly on the outside of the town, has
nothing to recommend it to notice.
The great bridge over the Willey, on the west side
of the Close, was built by virtue of a privilege ob-
tained by Bishop Poore of Henry III. when New
Sarum was incorporated ; " that for the benefit of
the said city they might change the ways and bridge
that led to it, and do therein what they thought
proper, provided it was without injury to any per-
son." His immediate successor, Bishop Bingham,
in 1245, built this bridge, which, by bringing the
great western road this way, instead of its passing
through Wilton, decided the fate of that place. In
this part of the city, which is called Harnbam (hav-
ing been a village of that name before the building
of New Sarum) there was the College de Vaux,
founded by Bishop Giles de Bridport, in 1260, fur
the residence of several scholars, who had retired
hither on account of some disturbances at Oxford.
Here they pursued their university studies ; and,
having a testimonial of proficiency from their chan-
cellor, frequently went and took their degrees at
Oxford. This they continued to do in Leland's
time. — The hospital of St. Nicholas, close to Harn-
ham-bridge, for a master, eight poor women, and
four poor men, was founded, on the suggestion of
Bishop Poore, by William Longespee, the sixth Earl
of Salisbury, as an atonement for an insult offered
by him to the bishop. It was endowed with lands
and cattle by Ella his countess, and escaped suppres-
sion at the Reformation through the art of the
masters, who concealed their records from the com-
missioners. They obtained a new charter from
James I. and the revenues now support six poor
men and as many women, with a chaplain and a
master. — The Council House, or Town Hall, is a
handsome building, in the south-east corner of the
market-place, of a light coloured brick, with a por-
V(JL. IV. — J1O. 175.
tico, and other ornaments, of stone. It was built
at the sole expence of the Earl of Radnor, recorder
of the city. It was completed in September, 1795.
The building consists of one floor only, on which
are the two courts, a council-room, or grand jury
room, apartments for the officers of the corporation,
a waiting room for witnesses, and a vestibule. The
council-room is 75 feet in length, and 24 feet in
width and height, occupying one entire wing. In
this room is a fine whole length of Queen Anne,
painted by the celebrated Dahl. It was purchased
by the city from the October Club, who, during the
reign of that princess, met at the Bell Tavern in
Westminster. There are also two fine pictures, by
Hopner ; one of the Earl of Radnor, the other of
William Hussey, M. P. for the city, who died in
1813. The grand jury room contains several good
portraits : viz. James I. John Duke of Somerset,
Bishop Seth Ward, Chief Justice Hyde, and Sir
Thomas White, considerable benefactors to the city
of Salisbury. "
The Poultry Cross, a curious Gothic structure,
of an hexagonal form, with a ball and sun-dial at
the top, has a small area around it, within which
is the poultry market.
Salisbury has another bridge over the Avon into
the parish of Fisherton Anger, near St. Thomas's
church. Fisherton was a village with a church,
before New Sarum was built, and had a house of
Black Friars. In this parish, near the bridge, is
the County Gaol, and the Infirmary, which was
finished in 1707. This institution was first sug-
gested by Lord Faversham, who bequeathed 500/.
to the first establishment of the kind that should be
attempted in the county ; upwards of 40,000/. have
been since subscribed towards its support. — There
are many other charitable foundations for the asy-
lum of the aged and infirm, and the education of
the infant poor, in this city, besides two respectable
grammar schools.
Salisbury was first incorporated by Henry III.
The charter was confirmed, and its privileges ex-
tended, by one obtained from Queen Anne. The
municipal government is vested in a mayor, recor-
der, deputy recorder, 24 aldermen, 30 common^
council-men, a town clerk, and three sergeants at'
mace. The mayor for the time being, his prede-
cessor, ten of the aldermen, and the recorder, are
justices of the peace. Their jurisdiction, however, .
does not extend into the Close; the magistrates of
that district being the dean and canons of the cathe- •
dral. — This city has sent representatives to parlia-
ment ever since the 23d -year of the reign of Ed-
ward I. the right of election being in the corpora-
tion.— The manor belongs to the bishop, who holds .
his courts leet and baron in the nisi-prius court of
the town-hall. The-mayor takes the oaths of office
in this court. The bishop also has the appointment
of the clerk of the peace and the city bailiff'.
The principal manufactures of Salisbury are cut-
lery and steel-goods, fine-flannels, woollen serges, ,
6 F ' . kersey-
481
WILTSHIRE.
kerseymeres, figured woollens for tvaistcoats, &c.
— Here is a concert once a fortnight during1 the
•winter months, and once in the month during the
summer, at which all strangers are gratuitously
admitted. There is also, once a fortnight, an assem-
bly during the winter. The theatre is neat, and' is
usually visited by a company of comedians every
winter. The races, held in the month of August,
continue three days, and are well attended.
Amongst the numerous eminent persons, natives
of Salisbury, may be noticed, John Thornborough,
D.D. Bishop of Worcester, born in 1552 ; George
Coryat, a Latin poet, and a topographer, who lived
towards the close of the 16th century ; Michael
Maschiart, or Machert, another Latin poet, and a
civilian, born about the middle of the 16th century;
Sir Toby Matthews, a celebrated Jesuit and politi-
cian (the eldest son of Dr.- Toby Matthews, Arch-
bishop of York,) who lived in the reign of James I. ;
Dr. Thomas Bennet, a divine, horn in 1673 ; Tho-
mas Chubb, a controversial writer, born about the
year 1700 ; John Greenhill, a portrait-painter and
engraver (pupil of Sir Peter Lely,) born about 1640 ;
Richard Hayter, a theological writer, born in 1611 ;
William Lawes, a musical composer, and pri-
vate musician to Charles I. ; and Henry Lawes, his
brother, also a musician and composer ; James
Harris", Esq. the celebrated author of "Hermes,"
&c. born in 1709; William Harris, D.D. an his-
torian and biographer ; John Feltham, author of
" A Tour through the Isle of Man," &c. who was
born about 1770, and died a few years ago, in the
prime of life ; and John Tobin, author of " The
Honey Moon," " The Curfew," and various un-
published dramas. Of this gentleman, who was
born in the year 1700, and who died at an early
age, a biographical account, from the interesting
pen of Miss Benger, is now in the press.
SAVERNAKE FOREST.] — Savernake Forest is the
only demesne of the kind, which is the property of
a subject : it belongs to the Earl of Aylesbury. In-
cluding Tottenham Park, its circumference is about
sixteen miles. The whole area, which abounds with
timber, particularly oaks, is intersected by avenues ;
and in the middle is a neat modern building, called
Savernake Lodge, which was constructed as a tem-
porary residence. Tottenham Park, the seat of the
noble proprietor, surrounds a brick building, ori-
ginally intended as a hunting-seat, and a lofty
column, inscribed to Charles, Earl of Aylesbury
and Elgin, by his nephew, the late Earl. To the
former have been added two wings, one at each end,
and in these are comprised the state rooms. It is
decorated with various portraits of the Seymour and
Bruce families ; a landscape, by Poussin ; a Sbozzo,
by Baron ; and a picture of Sampson and Dalilah,
by Vandyck. In the library, is a curious horn, or
elephant's tusk, two feet long, and six inches in
diameter; sculptured with the figures of a king, a
bishop, a forester, &c. and decorated with gilt bor-
ders, a mouth-piece, and a belt of green worsted,
with gilt silver buckles and hinges. — At a short dis-
tance southward is Wolf Hall ; once the seat of Sir
John Seymour, father of Queen Jane Seymour,
where is shewn an apartment in which her marriage
was solemnized and celebrated. — Northward from
the forest, is Martinshall-hill, on which is an im-
mense entrenchment, ascribed, by Stnkeley, to the
Romans, as " one of their chief fortresses, whence
they might give or receive signals all around, in case
of distress."
SEEN.] — Seen, or Scend-Green, a small, but
pleasant village, between Devizes and Melksham,
was the property of Hugh le Despenser, after whose
attainder, it was granted to the Bohuns ; and, hav-
ing come, subsequently, into the possession of the
Seymours, Dukes of Somerset, was the principal
residence of the late Lord William, uncle to the
present Duke.
SELWOOD FOREST.] — Selwood Forest, anciently
denominated Coitmavvr, extended many miles in
length and breadth over this county ; and afforded,
by the impenetrable security of its fastnesses, a for-
tress to the unconquerable perseverance of the illus-
trious Alfred, whence he sallied, and by a well-
timed, and energetic effort, freed bis kingdom from
the presence of its barbarous invaders.
SEVENHAMPTON.] — At Sevenhampton, is a seat
called Warneford Place, the property of the War-
nefords, with an attached demesne of some extent
and beauty ; and on Blunsdon Castle Hill is a cir-
cular entrenchment, supposed to be of Roman origin.
SHF.RSTON.] — Sherston, a considerable village,
near Malmsbury, is conjectured, with great appear-
ance of truth, to be the Sceorstan of Saxon history,
where was fought, in 1016, the battle which placed
Edmund Ironsides in a condition to treat on equal
terms with his rival, Canute. The church is ancient
and spacious, composed of a nave, chancel, two
aisles, a transept, and a large porch, with a loftj
tower in the centre. It contains no monuments ; bui
some pieces of armour are hung against the walls :
and in a room over the porch King Edmund is tra-
ditionally reported to have slept, on the night before
the battle. Near the village is an encampment, sup
posed to have been constructed by the troops o
Edmund ; and a field, called Carton's, where wa
fought another battle between the Saxons and th
Danes, in which the former were completely victo
rious, under the command of an officer name'
Rattlebones. So says tradition ; perhaps thus notinr
some incident in the former engagement.
SHREWTON.] — At the village of Shrevvton, wa -
discovered, about 1750, a small but extremely curi •
ous piece of sculptured alabaster. It was ova) ,
two feet long, and one broad ; with a female figui ;
in the centre, habited as a queen, with a glob ,
sceptre, crown, and mantle of state, over her hen ,
three smaller figures representing the Trinity ; an ,
round the sides, angles, with some of the apostle ;.
— In this neighbourhood, is a large tumulus, den -
initiated Ell- Barrow, with the indicia of a Briti li
villag ;
WILTSHIRE.
483
village; ami, northward from Shrewton, are several
banks and ditches, which run in the direction of an
ancient entrenchment, called Oasterly Camp : this
is evidently British ; consisting of a single ditch
and vallum, which enclose an area of sixty-four
acres; and, besides, bearing strong marks of origi-
nality and ancient habitation.
SLAUGHTERFORD.] — The village of Slaughterford,
cited by Whitaker, in his life of St. Neot, as the
Ethandune of Saxon history, probably, from that,
or some other mortal contest, derived its present
appellation. In the neighbourhood is the village of
Colerne, which was, in 1770, almost consumed by
a dreadful fire.
STANDLYNCH.]— Standlynch House, a seat of the
Dawkins family, is a large brick building, seated
on the Avon, and surrounded by extensive and well-
wooded pleasure-grounds. In the vicinity are seve-
ral encampments : Clearbury Ring occupies the
summit of an eminence, is but slightly fortified, and
contains an area of no more than five acres, thickly
planted with trees. The position of another, Whick-
bury Camp, is also lofty ; its defences are strong,
and enclose an area of fifteen acres ; and it has three
entrances. From this latter fortification, an old
bank conducts to a low barrow, surrounded by in-
scribed circles in the manner of a maze ; and several
ditches branch off in various directions. In a rich
•vale, which leads to the village of Damersham, is
an earth-work, called the Soldier's Ring, of a pen-
tagonal form, surrounded by a treble ditch and val-
lum ; and containing, by estimation, an area of
twenty-seven acres and a half, with but one entrance
at its eastern angle.
STANLEY.] — At Stanley, a small hamlet, near
Chippenham, an abbey was built and endowed, in
115-1, by the Empress Matilda and her son Henry II.
for thirteen white monks, whose revenues, at the
Dissolution, amounted to 222/. 19s. 4d. The build-
ings are completely destroyed ; but traces of the
foundations remain ; with fragments of columns,
mouldings, and capitals ; and a large stone coffin.
STANTON ST. QIHNTIN.] — The village of Stanton
St. Quintin, formerly the seat of the St. Quintins,
(N. W. from Draycot,) derived from them the latter
part of its appellation. The manor-house, which
lias been, long since, destroyed, was well worthy
of notice, from resembling, in many of its features,
the monastic buildings of the times. The church
is very ancient, and remarkable chiefly for its font,
and three round arches, apparently of the same date
as Malmsbury Abbey church.
STOKE PARK.] — Stoke Park, the seat of Joshua
Smith, Esq. situated seven miles S.W. from Devizes,
is an extensive and well-wooded demesne, on which
a new and elegant mansion bas been erected by its
owner, whose tasteful embellishments have given
something of an Arcadian character to its features.
The building consists externally of a front, 356
feet long, in the centre of which is a Doric colon-
nade, and two low wings, appropriated as offices.
The rooms are commodious ; above all, the hall, 40
feet long, and 32 wide, is magnificent ; the library
is well furnished, and the breakfast-room is deco-
rated with valuable pictures.
•STONEHENGE.] — This vast, this venerable monu-
ment of remote ages, the object of universal curi-
osity and conjecture, appears, at a distance, small,
and trifling ; and even to the near, but uninformed,
observer, unworthy of the great interest which it
has excited : but to the antiquary, the historian, and
the man of letters, it affords consummate pleasure,
and the materials for much examination and inquiry.
At present Stonehenge is a ruin, a confused heap of
fallen and falling stones ; but, as, from the great
bulk of these, they have been, in a manner, incapa-
ble of removal, their original disposition may be
easily traced. The whole consisted of two circular;
and two elliptical rows of upright stones ; of which
the outermost row had imposts, or a continued series
of stones, laid horizontally on their tops, all round ;
as had the ten uprights of the next alternate, or
third row. The whole was circumscribed, by a ditch
and vallum : the latter fifteen feet high, and within
the former ; and, on the north-east side, was the
exit from the work, now called the avenue, which,
at some distance, separated into two branches. — In
its present state, Stonehenge may be thus describ-
ed : — in the centre, is the altar-stone, as it is called,
fifteen feet in length, and different from all the others
in kind, being a very fine-grained calcareous sand-
stone, which strikes fire with steel, and contains
some minute spangles of silver mica. Next in order
to this, is the interior oval, which consists, accord-
ing to Stukeley, of nineteen uprights, formed of a
fine-grained griinstein, interspersed with black horn-
blende, feldspar, quartz, and chloritt. The most
perfect of these is seven feet and a half high, two
feet wide at the base, and one at the vertex. The
exterior oval, or second row from the centre, is not
perfect, being open at one end. Nevertheless, it
forms the grandest portion of Stonehenge : being
formed by five distinct pairs of trilithons ; the largest,
twenty-one feet six inches high, placed opposite to
the entrance; the next, seventeen feet two inches in
height, placed one on each side ; and the remaining
two, placed opposite to the first, not more than six-
teen feet three inches high : the whole of a pure,
fine-grained, and compact sand-stone. Two stones,
one of the uprights, and the impost of the princi-
pal trilithon, in this row, fell many centuries ago, as
did one of those most distant from it ; and, on the
3rd of January, 1797, a third trilithon, in this series,
gave way; but the remaining two are- still entire.
The inner circular row, which next occurs, con-
sisted, according to the decision of the best anti-
quaries, of forty upright stones, without imposts,
and much smaller than those of the other series.
Only eight of these remain erect, and twelve > '•e
lying on the ground. They are of the same kind as
the inner oval, except four : one, a siliceous schistus ;
another, an argillaceous schistus ; and the two others*
hornstone,
484
WILTSHIRE.
horustone, with small specks of feldspar, and pyrites.
At the distance of eight feet three inches from this
inner circle, is the external series of pillars, which
consisted originally of thirty uprights, all con-
nected by imposts ; in height, from thirteen to fifteen
feet ; and of the same pure sand-stone as the outer
ellipsis. The circumference of this circle, is three
hundred feet ; and the distance between the stones,
somewhat less than five feet. The present number
of erect supporters is seventeen ; of imposts, six.
The manner in which the latter were fastened to the
uprights, was by mortises and tenons ; that is, pro-
jecting knobs, fitted to cavities in the upper stones.
dose to the vallum, and within it, are two other
stones : one nine, the other four feet long, of which
the former has fallen backwards on the vallum ; at
the entrance, is a third detached block, twenty-one
feet long ; and, at the distance of one hundred feet
within the avenue, is a rude and immense stone,
called the Friar's Heel, sixteen feet high, and in a
leaning position. Near the bank are two small
hollows, which deserve notice. Dr. Stukeley sup-
posed them to be the sites of two stone vases, round
which the blood of the victims was made to flow ;
but, upon opening them, nothing appeared, except
an interment of bones. —From this attempt at de-
scription, it, will be seen that the total number of
stones, of which Stonehenge consisted, in its original
state, was one hundred and thirty-nine : sixty, in
the outer circle ; forty, in the inner ; fifteen in the
first ellipsis outward, nineteen in the second ellipsis,
or internal series ; and the five detached stones. Its
dimensions are as follows : — from the vallum to the
outer circle, one hundred feet ; the diameter of that
circle, one hundred feet ; the diameter of the whole
work, three hundred feet ; and its circumference,
three hundred and sixty-nine yards. — Such is Stone-
henge ; — what it has been, wherefore it was, and
how constructed, have been food for the conjectures
of learned men, and curious antiquaries, since the
tumult of intestine broils in this island gave place
to the calm pursuits of science, and the cultivation
of the arts. The earliest writer on Stonehenge,
Nennius, who lived in the 8th century, narrates a
story of the massacre of 460 nobles of Britain, by
Hcngist ; assigning the commemoration of this event
as a motive for its erection. This is also the account
of Walter de Mapes, a Welch chronicler, who de-
clares circumstantially that the work was suggested
and executed by Merlin ; relating how the wizard
went to Ireland, attended by a numerous force,
whose exertions to remove the monument from the
plains of Kildare he derided ; but himself, " without
any labour, but by the effect of science , readily
brought the stones to the ships." Geoffrey of
Monmouth, and Giraldus Cambrensis, follow this
account with small variations : the latter even as-
sures us, that, in Ireland, he " saw, with his own
eyes," an immense monument on the plains of Kil-
dare, which bore a minute resemblance to Stone-
Lenge, But all these tales, invented or repeated in
the fiction-loving spirit of the times, are disproved
1 by the poem " Gododiu," of the Bard Aneurin, in
which he mentions this monument as existing pre-
! viously to the massacre by Jlengist. Camden, pro-
bably without having seen it, but relying upon
defective descriptions, and an ill-executed drawing,
which he lays before us, gives a broad intimation,
that he looks upon it as " insana substmrlio," a wild
structure, repeats the story about Merlin, and adds
that the Britons raised it, a magnificent sepulchre
for Ambrosius, who was there slain in battle. The
theories which demand the most attention, are those
of Jones, Stukeley, Wood, and Smith. The first
endeavours to shew that Stonehenge is a temple of
the Romans, dedicated to Ccelus ; but he has com-
mitted gross and palpable errors in the disposition
of the stones ; and it is not likely that the Romans
would ever erect a temple on this spot, so greatly
dissimilar to all their other public edifices. Stukeley
ascribes it to the Druids ; but, to do the more
honour to the structure, introduces the agency of
the Tyrian Hercules in its formation. Wood's
opinion, simple, and supported by the best evi-
dence, that of the nature of the work itself, was,
that it was a temple erected by the Druids. In
this he is followed by Smith, who adds, that it was
erected as well for purposes of astronomical obser-
vation, as of religious ceremonial. Of the other
writers, who noticed Stonehenge, Charlton ascribed
it to the Danes ; Sammes, to the Phoenicians ;
Bishop Gibson, Cooke, and King, to the Druids ;
against whom the last gentleman poured forth a
strain of invective, amusing in the extreme ; and
Mr. Davies, the author of " Celtic Researches,"
and " Mythology, &c. of the British Druids," sup-
posed that this work, and Silbury Hill, were two of
three great labours, alluded to in a Welch Triad:
" lifting the stone of Ketti ; — building the work
of Emrys ; — and piling the mount of the assem-
blies." That Stonehenge, added this author, was
a Druidical structure, is evident from the appel-
lation given to it by the primitive bards : " Great
Sanctuary of the Dominion," a metropolitan tem-
ple, or sort of Pantheon. He also cited a passage
from Diodorus Siculus, the substance of which is,
that, in a fertile island, opposite Celtic Gaul,
Apollo was worshipped daily in a magnificent
precinct, and a remarkable temple of a round
form, adorned with many votive offerings and that
the care of this temple was intrusted to Boreada;,
who inherited this government by an uninterrupted
line of succession. Among the novel opinions started
by recent writers are, those of Ingram, who considers
Stonehenge to have been a Heathen burial-place ^
and the cursus (avenue) the Hippodrome, in which,
the goods of the deceased were run for at the time
of interment ; and the supposition of Cunnington,
grounded on the difference in quality and size,,
between the stones of the great circle and ellipse,
and those of the lesser ones, that the original work
consisted of the outward circle and its imposts, and
the
WILTSHIRE.
the inner ovnl or large trilithons ; and that the other
series, of inferior stones, were later additions. — It
is remarkable, that no relic, of sufficient importance
to afford a clue to the real origin and history of
this interesting temple, has been hitherto discover-
ed ; except a tin tablet, in the reign of Henry VIII.
the characters on which were illegible, and which is
now lost ; but the surrounding plain is covered with
n profusion of barrows, in many of which have been
found cists filled with burnt bones, entire skeletons,
and various relics of British art.
STOURHEAD.] — Two miles westward from Mere,
is Stourhead, which, from the time of Richard II.
till that of Queen Anne, was the seat of the Lords
Stourton. At the latter period, it was sold to Sir
Thomas Meres, and in 1720, to Henry Hoare, Esq.
the ancestor of the present proprietor, Sir Richard
Colt Hoare, Bart. The last-mentioned purchaser
rebuilt the mansion ; and, in 1798, two wings were
added, which are appropriated as a picture gallery
and a library. These, with the other apartments,
contain some of the finest specimens of the Italian,
and other schools : an allegorical picture of Carlo
Maratti ; several pieces of C. Dolci, Zuccharelli,
Canaletti, Titian, P. Veronese, Da Vinci, M. An-
gelo, and Guercino ; N. Poussin's Rape of the Sa-
bines, Rembrandt's Elisha and the Widow's Son, and
a Moon-light piece ; a landscape by Gainsborough ;
several pieces by Wilson, Ward, Calcot, Turner, and
Thomson, Sir R. Strange, and other English artists.
Among the curiosities, a cabinet of magnificent
workmanship, whichoncebelonged to Pope Sextus V.
consists of several stories, constructed of ebony,
agate, and lapis lazuli ; ornamented with solid gold,
and a profusion of every kind of precious stone,
except diamond ; and charged in front with about
twenty waxen heads of the Peretti family, of which
his Holiness was a member ; with his own portrait
in the centre. — The park and gardens of Stourhead
have been always celebrated lor the strikingly pic-
turesque character of their features ; the scenery of
the former, especially, must have been accounted
grand and impressive, before the hand of art had lent
it new beauties. Its principal feature is a large
lake, artificially formed, surrounded by eminences,
which are fringed with wood, and tastefully orna-
mented with walks, temples, and seats. Among the
numerous grottoes, is one in which the figure of a
sleeping nymph has been placed, near a perpetual
fountain, with these lines of Pope :
" Nymph of the grot these sacred springs I keep,
And to the murmur of these waters sleep ;
Ah 1 spare my slumbers, gently tread the cave,
And drink in silence, or in silence lave." *
In another part is the figure of a river god.
Scattered over the demesne, are temples to Flora,
* The original, found in the Latin Anthology, is re-
markable for the apposite softness and sleepy harmony of the
verse : —
wot. iv.— NO. 176.
and the Sun, a pantheon, and some curious antique
remains, brought from Bristol. These latter are a
stone cross, which once stood at the junction of
four streets in Bristol, decorated with statues of
King John, Henry III. Edward I. Edward 111.
Henry VI. Elizabeth, Charles I. and James I. ;
and a pile of building called Peter's Pump, con-
sisting of four piers, with as many arches, and
statues in niches. Within these grounds is an en-
campment surrounded by a circular double ditch,
and a vallum, twenty-seven feet high. Here also
are the six springs, whence proceeds the river Stour ;
and, in their immediate vicinity, on the suinmit of an
eminence, ^is a lofty triangular tower, erected oa
the British road, by which Alfred is supposed to
have advanced to attack the Danes, at jEthan-
dune. Over the entrance is a statue of the Saxon
monarch, nnd an inscription in honour of his cha-
racter and actions.
STOURTON.] — The village of Stourton, which
adjoins Stourhead, is situated in a woody dell,
producing, with its rural dwellings and neat church,
ideas of Arcadian innocence, amid peaceful enjoy-
ments. The sacred edifice contains monuments of
the Stourtons and Hoares, proprietors of Stourhead.
Of these, a large altar- tomb supports two statues of
a man and a woman, and three smaller effigies in an
ambulatory attitude, without any inscription. In the
chancel, a mural tablet to the memory of Henry
Hoare, Esq. who died in 1785, is inscribed wilh the
following lines, from the pen of Hayley :
" Ye who have view'd in pleasure's choicest hour.
The earth embellish'd on these banks of Stour ;
With grateful reverence, to this marble lean,
Rais'd to the friendly founder of the scene.
Here with pure love of smiling nature wann'd.
This far-famed demy paradise he formed,
And happier still, here learn'd from heaven to find
A sweeter Eden in a bounteous mind.
Thankful these fair and flowery paths he trod ;
And priz'd them only as they led to God."
At the south-western extremity of Stourton parish
are numerous hollows or excavations, called Penn
Pitts, in the form of an inverted cone; whether arti-
ficial or not, it is impossible to decide. They have
been supposed by some to be the places whence the
Britons took their mill-stones ; by others, to be sub-
terranean habitations, like those still used in Kain-.
stchatka, about Nootka Sound, and in other unge-
nial climates. Several engagements happened in this
neighbourhood, in times preceding the Conquest :
one, in 658, between Cenwallus, King of Wessex,
and the Britons, in which the latter were defeated ;
another, in 1001, when the Danes overthrew the
Saxons ; and a third, in 1016, when King Edmund
defeated the Danes, under the renowned Canute.
STRATFORD.] — Stratford is a parish which extend*
" Hujus nympha loci, sacri custodia fontis
Dormio, dum blandx sentio murmur aquae
Parce uieum, quisquis tangis cava murmura somnuni
Rumpere ; sive bibat, swe lavere* lace."
0 » along
488
WILTSHIRE.
along the banks of the Avon, at the place where it
was crossed by the old Roman road ; circumstances
whence it/is supposed to have received its name
Street-ford. Here, in an old family mansion, re-
sided the father of the Earl of Chatham. Near the
church is an old tree, under which the ceremony
is performed of nominating the members for Old
Sarum.
STUDLEY.] — At Studley, a small village south-
eastward from Ohippenham, is an old mansion of
the Petty family ; and, in the parish of Stratton
St. Margaret, near Swindon, an alien priory was
founded soon after the Conquest.
SWINDON.] — Swindon, 36^ miles N. from Salis-
bury, is a respectable market-town, which, as it
•was noticed by none of our early historians, is
supposed to have been anciently of little import-
ance, and the scene of no interesting occurrence.
The church, mean in its exterior appearance, but
neatly fitted up within, contains some monumental
erections ; one among which, remarkable for its
chaste design and exquisite execution, commemo-
rates the virtues of Mrs. Millicent Neate, a maiden
lady, who died in her 73d year. In the neighbour-
hood are some extensive quarries, the stone from
which scarcely yields in beauty and durability to
that called Portland stone. — Swindon House, a neat
modern mansion, is a seat of the Goddards. — At
Brome, a small hamlet in the vicinity of Swindon,
is an upright stone, ten feet high, denominated
Long Stone; 'and a range of smaller ones, which
are conjectured to be the remains of a Druidieal
work.
TESFONT.] — Tesfont, or Teftbnt Ewias, was once
the lordship of Sir Thomas Hungerford, the first
Speaker of the House of Commons. Here also
was born James Ley,* Earl of Marlhorough, Chief
Justice of the King's Bench, and Lord Treasurer
of England, in thu reign of James I.
TISBURV.] — At Tisbury, a long straggling village,
the church is a spacious Normiin-Gothic edifice ;
the ornamental purls of which bear a striking re-
semblance to those which support the roof of West-
minster Hall. In this building are monuments for
many members of the Arundel family, which bear
date chiefly between the middle of the 16th cen-
tury and the present time. Several of them are
handsome, and all neat : that of the first Lord
Arundel of Wardotir, is thus inscribed:
* This nobleman was the sixth son of Henry Ley, Esq. and
was educated at Brazen Nose College, Oxford. His elevation
was more than usually rapid, and the death of his five brothers
gave him a new accession of fortune. He wrote a Treatise of
Wards and Liveries ; and Reports on Divers Cases in the
Courts of Wards, &c. He died in 1628, and was buried at
Westbury, where a sumptuous monument was elected to his
memory by his son.
f Sir Nicholas was probably born in Wardour Castle, of
which his father had a long lease. The time of his birth is uncer-
tain. He was made sergeant in 1626, and was soon afterwards
advanced to his other dignities, which however be did not long
.enjoy, having died in 1631,.
Thomas Domintis Arundelius,
Primus Baro de Warder, Sacri
Eomani Imperil Comes. Obiit
7mo Die Noveinbris. Stalls
SUE 79. Anno Domini 1639.
Sicut PullusHirundinis sic clamabo.
Is. XXXVIII, 3, 14."
A memorandum of Mr. Cunnington's, records the
opening of an earth-work, and the removal of an
upright stone, 12 feet long, at this place ; when a
skeleton was found, at the depth of eighteen inches
from the surface. — Tisbury has had the honour of
giving birth to two persons, distinguished for their
genius and success : Sir Nicholas Hydef, and Sir
John DaviesJ ; the former, Chief Justice of the
King's Bench, and Lord Treasurer, in the reign of
James I. ; and the latter an eminent lawyer, poet,
and political writer, of the same period.
TOLLARD ROYAL.] — In the parish of Tollard Royal
is an old farm-house, called King John's Hunting
Seat, the inside of which, particularly the stair-
case, which, with the chimney-pieces, is constructed
of oak, exhibits decided marks of antiquity. Rush-
more Lodge, a seat of Lord Rivers, is situated
in a secluded and well-wooded vale, on the bor-
ders of Dorsetshire. Cranbourn Chace, the pro-
perty of this nobleman, is an extensive tract, lying
partly in this county and partly in Dorsetshire.
Unlike other demesnes of the same character, it has
been frequently in the hands of subjects. Its boun-
daries were defined by a perambulation made in the
reign of Henry III. ; but several severe legal con-
tests have arisen, which have been uniformly decided
in favour of the lord of the' chace. At present
there are six lodges, with walks appropriated to
each, under the care of a ranger. There is a wood
or cbace-court convened annually for the preser-
vation of vert and venison ; in which delinquents
are punished, by fine or imprisonment.
TROWBRIDGE.] — Trowbridge, (28 miles N. W.
from Salisbury,) a considerable market-town, dis-
tinguished for its manufacture of woollen cloth, is
first noticed by historians in the reign of Stephen,
when, we are informed, the castle was occupied by
the Empress Matilda, and besieged and taken by
the usurper. The most plausible derivation of its
name is from a tything, called Troll, within its pre-
cincts, and the bridge here thrown over a branch of
J Thi« gentleman was born about 1570, educated at
Queen's College, Oxlord, and expelled from the Middle
Temple, of which he had been entered, in 1597-8, for irre-
gular conduct ; whereupon, he returned to Oxford, and devoted
his genius to the muses, without, however, neglecting his more
important interests: as we find that he was restored to'the Soci-
ety, in 1601 ; and, at the same time, chosen the representative
in parliament, for Corfe Castle. His principal poem, called
" Nosce Teipsum," recommended him to James I. who gave
him several posts of honour and emolument. He died in 1626, a
few days after he had been raised to the dignity of Lord
Chief Justic.e. fie was the author of several political and law
treatises.
the.
WILTSHIRE.
487
• the ATOM. This town, being an appendage of the
duchy of Lancaster, was a royal demesne in the
reign of Henry VII., hut was granted, in that of
his successor to Edward, Earl of Hertford ; after-
wards passed by marriage to the Manners family,
and was by them sold, in 1809, to Thomas Tim-
brell, Esq. It is irregularly built ; and, though
there are several handsome houses, they appear to
great disadvantage, from the narrowness of the
streets, and the near neighbourhood of old and ill-
looking buildings. The woollen manufacture is
chiefly of superfine broadcloths, and kerseymeres.
Here the petty sessions for the division are held,
with a court-leet, and a court baron of the lord of
the manor. The church of Trowbridge, though
more than four hundred years old, is still denomi-
nated the New Church, whence we may presume
the previous existence of another. It consists of a
nave, chancel, two aisles, with two chapels attached,
and a large tower, surmounted by a spire. The nave,
which has a flat ceiled roof, decorated with flowers,
is separated from the aisles, by five arches on each
side, supported by clustered columns and orna-
mented capitals. In the windows, particularly
those of the chapel, are fragments of stained glass ;
the font is decorated with sculptured representations
of the Crucifixion, tracery, and panelling ; and the
monuments are rather numerous. The present in-
cumbent of the rectory is the Rev. Mr. Crabbe,
author of The Borough, Tales of the Hall, (recently
published,) and other interesting poems. — Here are
several conventicles for dissenters, an alms-house,
and a school, founded for thirty boys, by one Te-
rumber, a clothier, who also contributed liberally
to the expcnces of building the church. The period
when the castle was built is unknown ; as is that of
its demolition ; neither does any part of it remain ;
though its site is easily discernible, 'and still retains
the appropriate appellation of Court Hill. Several
houses in the vicinity, which possess marks of con-
siderable antiquity, seem to indicate that the town
first began to rise under the protection of the castle ;
and, as the castle was approached by a drawbridge,
some persons have supposed that the name of the
town is nothing more than a corruption of the word,
drawbridge. Among the natives of this place, who
rose to eminence, were George Keate*, and William
Temple. The hitter was a writer of the last cen-
tury, whose long residence entitles him to notice
under the head ol this town. He wrote controversial
essays, and some pamphlets in support of the priu-
* Mr Keate, descended from the ancient families of the
Hungerfords, and Seymours, was born in 1730, and went at
an early age lo Geneva, where he cultivated the friendship of
Voltaire. In his thirtieth year, abandoning the protession of
the law, lie published " Ancient a:ul Modern Koine," a poem ;
and continued, during the next twenty years of his life, to pro- ,
duce occasional pieces of considerable merit. In 1781, he pub-
lished a collection of his poetical works; and, being about
that time involved in a vexatious lawsuit, he produced, at its.1
conclusion, a serio-comic poem, called " The Distressed Poet."
Itis last work was an " Account of the Fellew Islands," the
ciples and conduct of Wilkes ; " Memoirs of Wool,"
and a " Treatise on Commerce."
TUDWORTH.] — North Tudworth, or Tidworth, a
small village on the borders of Hampshire, south-
westward from Ludgershall, is noted for the eminent
characters whom it has produced, and for the re-
mains of antiquity to be found in its vicinity. On
the north-west side of Tudworth, is an entrench-
ment, called Chidbury Camp, composed of a double
ditch and vallum, which circumscribe an area of
seventeen acres, in the form of a heart, the narrow
end of which, being the principal entrance, is strongly
defended by an out work. From this entrance a
bold causeway, resembling the Roman roads, ex-
tends a distance of more than a mile towards East
Everley ; bisecting in its course a large Druid
barrow. There are also several ditches and banks,
which conduct to a British village ; and many bar-
rows, some of which contain empty cists, and other
articles. Similar ranges of banks and ditches are
traced on the Downs, between Salisbury and Marl-
borough, on Wick Down, and Chute Down ; several
fortified earth-works "are also distinguishable in all
these places ; and on a lofty point of Down, which
protuberates .into the deep valley at Scots Poor, is a
strong earth-work, called Haydon Hill Castle, of
irregular form, but very defensible from the height
of the vallum, its own lofty position, and the supply
of water from two ponds on the summit, which never
fail. — At Fosbury, also, as might be expected from
its name, a large bank and ditch, of uncommon
construction, run in a north-easterly direction, dU
verging into many branches, and intersecting the
Roman road at different points. The manor-house
of Tudworth was the scene' of the story, whence
Addison formed the plot of his " Drummer, or the
Haunted House." This house is further remarka-
ble as the residence of the late Edward Poore, Esq.
a man of eccentric habits, who, having resided in
Italy, assumed the manners and customs of the
modern natives of .that country, and devoted his
leisure to music and literature, lie died in Italy,
leaving several volumes of lucubrations to his friend,
John Collins, Esq. of Devizes. — Here was born, in
1607, Robert Matonf, a celebrated divine and en-
thusiast of the puritanical age ; and at Chute, in the
17th century, Jeremy Corduroy, a divine of some
celebrity, who refused, upon principle, the church
preferments which were offered to him.
TYTHERTON CALLOWAYS.] — At the village of Ty-
thertou Galloways, four miles from Chippenham,
proceeds of which he dedicated to benevolent purposes. He
died on June 27, 1794.
-)- This man, having adopted the belief of a millenium, gave
his opinions to the world, during the rebellion, in the three
works, " Israel's Redemption, ora Propliei ital History of our
Saviour's Kingdom on Earth."—" A Discourse of Gog and
Magog;" — and a " Comment on the Twentieth Chapter of
the Revelations." To these he subjoined, in the progress of ;
controversy, " Israel's Redemption Redeemed," and." The
Fifth Monarchy." •
09*
488
WILTSHIRE.
one Connicker, \vlio had been a methoilist, and had
seceded from that persuasion, on the schism between
the leaders, Wesley and Whitfield, laid the pl.in
for a society of [Moravians. He converted two ad-
jacent cottages into a sister-bouse, and attempted,
but without success, to institute a fellowship of young
men on the same principle ; however, the infant
settlement, having become about twenty years since,
more numerous and wealthy, built a new chapel and
sister-house, and added to the former, a neat resi-
dence for their pastor. They have also recently
erected a school-house, for female children of every
persuasion ; and, "in this undertaking, they receive,
as they deserve, the encouragement of their neigh-
bours.
UPHAVEN.] — Uphaven, called also Haven-up, a
•village between Devizes and Ludgershall, was for-
merly a market-town. We are informed by Tanner,
that it had an alien priory for Benedictine monks,
which, on the dissolution of similar establishments,
was granted to the priory of Ivy Church. On a hill,
eastward from the village, are some faint traces
of ditches, and other vestiges of an earthen fortifi-
cation.'
WANBOROUGII.] — Wanborongb, a small village,
near Swindon, was the property of the St. Amands,
and the Lovels, successively. In the church are
several old monuments and inscriptions ; and, within
the parish, the Roman road, from Cricklade, divides
into two branches.
WANSDIKE.] — Wansdike is an immense ditch and
vallum, which commence near Andover, in Hamp-
shire; pass by Great Bedwin, through Savernake
Forest, over Marlborough downs ; visit Calston,
Heddington, and Bath Hampton, crossing the river
Avon, at several points ; and, after traversing, the
county of Somerset, terminate in the Severn, near
the ancient port of Portishead : thus forming a line
more than eighty miles long, three fourths of which
are still very discernible.
WARDOUR CASTT.E.] — Wrardour Castle, the mag-
nificent seat of the Arundcl family, erected (luring
the last century, from the designs of Paine, is situ-
ated near the road between Salisbury and Shaftes-
bury. The object in this demesne, which claims
the first notice, is the old castle, the ruins of which
lie at a small distance from the modern edifice, be-
neath a finely wooded eminence. Nature and time
have here made too much progress in their triumph
o-ver the efforts of art, to permit the discrimination
of its features. From the hexangular court, in the
•centre of these ivied remains, several doorways
opened into different apartments of the castle, but
only one staircase remains, by which to ascend to
the summit of the ruin. The chief interest lies in
its history.; and of this, the most prominent circum-
stance is the relation of its defence by the Lady
Arundel, during the first days of the rebellion,
whilst her husband was attending King Charles, at
Oxford. With no more .than twenty-five men, this
Jberoic womau disdained to surrender without resist-
ance, and maintained, against 1300 troops, during
five days, the trust which had been committed to
her by her husband. Even then, the terms on which
she capitulated would 'nave done honour to a veteran
soldier : she had the lives of her men, permission
for herself and her children to retire to Bath, and
the assurance that her property should be consul ered
as sacred. These conditions, to the shame of her
enemies be it spoken, were but ill fulfilled ; she had,
indeed, the liberty of going to Both ; but her children
were separated from her, t'oe house was ransacked,
and even her own wearing apparel seized. The
government of the castle was given to the parlia-
mentarian, Ludlow, who was soon obliged to sur-
render to Lord Arundel and Sir Francis Dodding-
toTTT In these two defences, the building was too
much impaired to be afterwards capable of habita-
tion ; and the family resided in a mansion, almost
contiguous ; which was also deserted about thirty-
five years since. — On the side of the hill, is a beau-
tiful terrace, ornamented with rock-work, leading
to the castle ; over the granel entrance of which, is
a head of our Saviour, with the words : Sub Numine
Tun, Stct Genus et Domus ; and the family arms,
with this inscription : —
" Gentis Arundelix Thomas Lanhernia proJet
Junior, hoc meruit, primo sedere loco.
Ut sedit, cecidit, sine crimine pkctitur ille
Insons: insontem fata senuuta probant ;
Na?n quce patris ernnt Mattheus filius emit ;
Empta auxit : studio principis aucta manent,
Comprecor aucta din maneant uugendapcr ccvum !
Hac dedit, eripuit, restituitque Deus."
These lines refer to the trial and execution of Sir
Thomas Arundel, as an accomplice with the Duke
of Somerset, in the alleged attempt to poison North-
umberland; and to the permitted succession of his
son Matthew. — The new edifice, situated at the dis-
tance of a mile from the ruins of the castle, is con-
structed of freestone, in the form of a centre anel
two wings. The entrance, finely ornamented with
Corinthian demi-columns and pilasters, conducts
into the hall, 30 feet long, and 24 broad, whence
the rotunda stair-case, a striking specimen of modern
art, leads to a peristyle of the Corinthian order,
144 feet in circumference. The lofty cupola, sup-
ported by eight (luted columns, is decorateel with
trophies of music ; the frieze, with foliage, lions',
and wolves' heads, parts of the family arms ; and
the doors, which are of mahogany, in niches, are
ornamented with an elegant simplicity, observable,
by the eye of taste, in every part of this delightful
residence. On this principal floor, are twenty-six
rooms, embellished with a variety of paintings,
among which, are some pieces of Rubens, Rembrandt,
Spagnoletto, Titian, Foschi, Vernet, Gerard Douw,
Salvator Rosa, G. Poussin, Murillo, Caravaggio,
and Andrea del Sarto ; a representation of Roman
ruins, in caustic, a composition of wax, like water-
colours ; and, ia Lord Arundel's study, a Saviour.
io
WILTSHIRE.
489
in ivory, by M. Angelo. In the dining- parlour is
a Grace Cup, or VVassail Bowl, which formerly
belonged to Glastonbury Abbey, formed of oak, in
the shape of a tankard, and lackered with a strong
varnish. Its capacity is two quarts, ale measure.
Within, were formerly eight pegs, which divided
the contents into as many parts of half a pint each.
On the lid, is sculptured the Crucifixion ; on the out-
side of the vessel are the figures of the twelve
apostles, with other ornaments ; and, beneath, as
supporters, are three figures of lions coucham. Its
history is unknown. — In the west wing, is the chapel,
95 feet long, and 40 broad and high ; the east end of
which receding semicircularly, is lighted by several
windows, with stained glass by Egginton. The walls
are painted in compartments ; and the altar-piece
is a dead Christ, by Cades. The altar, and its
appendages of magnificent materials and workman-
ship, were executed by GiacomoQuirenza, an Italian,
and are supported by a splendid sarcophagus otverde
antique, brought from Rome. Near the altar, is a
handsome monument in memory of Thomas, Lord
Arundel, second Baron of Arundel, and his Lady,
Blanch, who died in 1649. He fell at the battle of
Lansdown, and died at Oxford. In this wing is the
state-chamber, in which is an elegant bed, that was
fitted up for Charles I., when, in the early part of
his reign, he paid a visit to Lord Arundel. — South-
ward from Wardour, is Fern House, the respectable
seat of Thomas Groove, Esq. ; to the north-east
is Hatch House, formerly the seat of a branch of
the Hydes ; and Pyt House, the seat of John Ben-
net, Esq. near which is an earth-work, supposed
to be the site of a Saxon or Norman castle. In this
Vicinity was born William Thorn, a linguist and
divine of the 16th and 17th centuries, who was
educated at Wykeham's school and college ; con-
stituted Hebrew professor at Oxford, in 1593, pre-
ferred to the deanery of Chichester, and died 1629.
WARMINSTER.] — Warminster, (20 miles W. N.W.
from Salisbury,) regarded by some writers, as the
Verhtdo of antiquity, is certainly very ancient, and
yet retains much of its importance : having an
abundant market, of corn, and a considerable manu-
facture of woollens. It consists chiefly of one long
street, at the western extremity of which, stands the
parish church, a spacious and handsome edifice,
constructed with stone, and adorned with a square
tower. Other public buildings are, a chapel of !
ease, two conventicles, a market-house, an assem- i
bly-room, and free grammar-school ; the mastership
of which, an appointment of 30/. per annum, is in the
gift of the Marquis of Bath. Among the former
possessors of the manor, was Edward, Lord Hast-
ings, who was beheaded for conspiring against
* This man was born in the island of Anglesea, and received
his grammar education at Beaumaris, whence he removed, a
servitor, to Jesus College, Oxford. There he so distinguished
himself by his knowledge of the eastern languages, that ne was
engaged by Dr. Kennicot, to assist in his Hebrew Collations.
Having obtained a fellowship and a living, he retired to Upton,
VOL. IT. — NO. ]76.
; Richard III. It is now the property of the
i quis of Bath, at whose court-leet, the constables
{ are annually chosen. At this place are held the
! petty-sessions for the hundred. — Warminster gave
birth, in 1714, to Samuel Squire, whose father, an
apothecary, sent him to St. John's College, Cam-
'. bridge, where he took his degrees, and became a
fellow. He afterwards rose, by episcopal and royal
patronage, through several gradations of church
| preferment, to the bishopric of St. David's, and
died in 1766.
The small village of Upton Scudamore, in this
vicinity, is remarkable for having been the residence
of Thomas Owen*, a man whose life was a practical
lesson of industry and perseverance. — Southby
Wood must be noticed for some entrenchments
within or near its limits : one, called Robin Hood's
Bovver, is nearly square; a second, is of a similar
form ; and the third, is semi -elliptic, bounded by
a ditch and two vallums. — Clee Hills are two curi-
ously formed hillocks, of which one is surrounded
by a ditch and rampart, and has on its summit two
barrows, and the pedestal of a stone-cross. — Cop
Head Hill, a conically shaped eminence, was found,
in 1809, to contain several entire skeletons, and an
interment of buried bones. — Battlesbury Camp, a
mile eastward from the town, occupies the summit
of an irregular hill, two sides of which are inacces-
sible by nature, and the others, so defended by ram-
parts, sixty feet high, as to be of almost equal
strength. Its area, which is cultivated, is 23£
acres. In the inner ditch, is a large circular bar-
row, and on the inner rampart are two others. In
the neighbourhood of this fortress, is one of the
largest tumuli in Wiltshire, denominated King Bar-
row, which, on being opened, was found to contain
the bones of a horse, and of three human beings,
horns of stags, boars' tusks, rude pottery, and a
single-edged iron sword, which was 18 inc'ies long,
and 2 broad, and lay on one of the skeletons.
WESTBURY.] — Wes'tbury (-24 miles N. W. by W.
| from Salisbury,) which, like VVarminster, has found
j advocates for its antiquity, is by them pronounced
j to be the site of the Roman station Vcrlucio ; but
: this opinion, founded only upon the discovery of
j some coins in the vicinity, is unauthorized by any
j passage in recorded history, or by any monument of
the Romans. It does not seem to have been of any
importance, even during the Saxon aera of our
history, as the first mention made of it is in the
reign of Edward I;, who, by charter, constituted it
a corporate town, under the government of a mayor,
recorder, and twelve capital burgesses. This- town
has deputed representatives to parliament, since the
27 Henry VI., who caused the right of election to
where he employed his learned otium in translating Latin
authors, and Greek writers on Agriculture, in which he much >
delighted. He died in 1811, in the arms of his paternal lares,.
among relations, whom his testamentary bounty raised .to opu-
lence.
6 IT ba
490
WILTSHIRE.
lie vested in "every tenant of burgage tenements
in fee, for lives, or for ninety-nine years, deter-
minable on lives, or by copy of court-roll, paying
a burgage rent of four-pence, or two-pence yearly,
being resident within the borough, and not receiving
alms." One long street from north to south, forms
the principal part of (he town ; and the public
buildings are, the town hall and the church. The
former is a convenient edifice, in which the borough
courts are held. The church is large and ancient,
built of stone, with a tower in the middle, and
several monuments in the interior, in honour of cele-
brated persons. The principal of these were James
Ley, Earl of Marlborough, who died in 1628 ;
William Phipps, Esq. of Hey wood ; and Sir Wil-
liam Westbury, a justice of the common pleas, who
was interred here about the middle of the 15th cen-
tury.— Westbnry had the peculiar honour, about the
middle of last century, of giving birth, nearly at the
same time, to two persons who became eminent for
their literary worth : Bryan Edmunds,* and Philip
Withers. f — Brook Hall, two miles westward from
Westbury, was erected by Sir Robert Willoughby,
who was created Lord Brook, in the reign of
Henry VII.
WEST DEAN.] — At West Dean, on the borders of
Hampshire, is a large and ancient mansion, now
ruinous, which formerly belonged to Sir John
Evelyn, and afterwards to Lord Ranelagh. The
parish church, which consists of a nave, chancel,
and side aisle, contains several monumental erec-
tions, deserving of notice. A mural tomb, in the
chancel, supports the kneeling effigies of a man and
a woman, with three male, and eight female figures,
and records the death of John Evelyn, Esq. and
his lady ; a beautiful bust on the opposite wall, re-
presents Elizabeth, daughter of George Evelyn,
Esq. who died in 1629 ; and, in the south aisle, are
two marble tombs, one of which bears a fine bust
of Sir John Evelyn, who died in lb'84 ; the other,
a figure of Robert Pierrepoint, Esq. whose death is
dated, April 26, 1669. — Here was discovered, in
1741, a Roman tesselated pavement, fragments of
* This eminent merchant, benevolent man, and entertaining
writer, was born, May 21, 1743, and educated at Bristol. In
1759, lie went to the West Indies, and there wrote many
Essays and Poems for the colonial journals. In 1770, he suc-
ceeded to the large estate of an uncle, who had adopted him,
and in 1773, to that of a Mr. Hume, by whicli he became one
of the most opulent men in Jamaica. Having returned to
England, where, however, he did not then establish his resi-
dence, he attracted notice by a pamphlet, entitled "Thoughts
on the proceedings of Government, respecting the trade of the
West Indies, with the United States of America." His last
work was " the Proceedings of the Governor and assembly of
Jamaica, in regard to the Maroon Negroes." But his best
production is his " History, civil and commercial, of the British
colonies in the West Indies." In 1796, he was elected member
for the b&rough of Grampotind, in Cornwall, which he con-
tinued to represent till his death, in 1SOO.
-J- Philip Withers, D.D. was the son of a blue-dyer, and was
himself apprenticed to a shopkeeper. In his twentieth year
1 which were still to be seen a few years since in a
j carpenter's yard.
WEST KENNET.]— At the small village of West
j Kennet, a kind of cursus, whicli was once defined
| by large stones, ranged rectilinearly ; and on the
j brow of a hill, near 'this walk, a round trench,
I enclosing two concentrical circles of stones, were
probably constructed to commemorate the battle
of Kennet, fought in 1006.
WESTON BIRT.] — Weston Birt, two miles N. E.
from Sherston, is the property and residence of
Robert Holford, Esq. The valley in which it is
situated, has the peculiarity of being periodically
overflowed by springs, which gush from the soil in
many places at once. This phenomenon is called
Shireburn, and has procured for the village the
descriptive denomination of " Weston Birt, all
water and no dirt."
WEST WOOD.] — At Westwood, a small village near
Bradford, many of the houses bear decisive marks
of antiquity, as well as the church, which is com-
posed of a nave, aisle, chancel, and square tower.
The windows of the aisle are adorned with stained
glass ; and the roof and several seats with curiously
carved work. . The manor-house is the property of
the Dean of Winchester.
WILCOT.] — Wilcot House, the seat of Admiral
Montague, is a modern mansion, situated in a well-
wooded park, on the Kennet and Avon canal. The
manor was, during several centuries, posterior to
the Conquest, the property of the Lovels.
WILTON.] — Wilton, situated in a fertile vale, at
the confluence of the Nadder and the Wily, (3| miles
W. by N. from Salisbury) is called by some old
writers, Vilodunum and Ellandunum ; and by Bax-
ter Caer Guilon, or the chief seat of the British
Prince Carvilius. However this may be, it is un-
doubtedly a place of great antiquity, from which the
county derives its name ; and it was probably a chief
town and residence of the West-Saxon kings, who
conferred upon it many substantial marks of their
favour : as founding religious establishments, con-
stituting it a royal borough ; and investing it with
he was profoundly ignorant ; but, being then placed in ai
academy, at Hull, he made so rapid a progress, that, in 1777
he was admitted a member of Trinity College, Cambridge
and soon distinguished himself as an excellent Greek and Latii
scholar. He appears to have opened a school in St. Mar-
Axe, London, but his literary career alone deserves notict
His first effort was a Letter to the Vice Chancellor of Oxford
in reply to an attack signed Vindex. In this letter he boldl;
challenged any member of the University of Oxford to a tri:
of skill, in the Greek language, in a style at once spirited an
elegant, which equally bespoke the gentleman, and the schola .
In 1787, appeared his "Cassandra," a work of a libellous nature
and, in 1789, " Aristarchus, or the Principles of Composition,
which is undoubtedly the most valuable of his production
Having in this year written several pamphlets on the Kinj -
indisposition, the Regency ,&c. in which some expressions wi<
construed as libellous, he was sentenced to pay a fine of j(
and lobe imprisoned one year in Newgate, where lie died, :
consequence of a fever, in July, 1790.
ma; /
WILTSHIRE.
491
many extraordinary immunities. It was also the
scene ef several of the most interesting' occurrences
in tlieir history : in 823, Egbert here engaged and
defeated the power of Herein, under Bcornwulf ;
in 854, his successor executed, at Wilton, the charter
by which he conveyed to the clergy all the tytlies
of his realm ; Alfred defeated the Danes here, in
871 ; in 1003, the town was burned by Swein, of
Denmark, in his retributive incursion ; and, lastly,
it was again pillaged and destroyed, on the defeat
of Stephen, by the forces of the Empress Matilda.
These calamities were soon repaired : the primary
cause of its decay, seems to have been the diversion
of the western road ; and the finishing blow was
given to its prosperity by the dissolution of religions
houses, of which it had a great number. It is par-
ticularly famous for its abbey, which was instituted
in 773, by Wulstan, Earl of Wiltshire, on the
occasion of his having defeated the Mercians, who
had put to deatli his father Alquimond. About 800,
it was converted by Egbert into a nunnery ; and in
871, Alfred transferred the re/igieur, whose number
lie augmented, to a new monastery. Most of his
successors became benefactors to the foundation ;
and, indeed, as the major part of its inmates were
the daughters of the principal nobles, its endow-
ments could not but be considerable. What few
particulars remain of its history are altogether unim-
portant ; and of its buildings, not a wreck remains.
It was dissolved 35 Henry VIII. when its annual
revenues amounted to 601/. 1*. Id. The other
foundations were a house of Black Friars, an hos-
pital, a collegiate church, and a second hospital,
dedicated to St. John, which still exists, anrf sup-
ports a master, two poor men, and the same num-
ber of women. — Though the ancient prosperity of
Wilton has disappeared, it retains several valuable
privile'ges : it is governed by its own corporation,
of a mayor, recorder, five aldermen, three capital
burgesses, and eleven common-council men ; and,
being a borough by prescription and by charter, it
returns to parliament, two representatives, who are
elected by the mayor and burgesses ; here too are
sometimes held the county courts of justice, and the
elections of the county members. — The principal
buildings are the parish church, and the town hall ;
two conventicles, for dissenters ; a free-school, and
eight alms-houses. Two important branches of
manufacture were established here, by the grand-
father of the present Earl of Pembroke, that of
carpets, and another of marble cloth, but both have
declined ; and the principal trade of Wilton now
consists of its flannels and fancy woollens. — Wilton
has produced several writers of repute, who bore
the name of their birth-place : John of Wilton,
senior, an Augustine friar of the 14th century,
noted for his theological anii controversial tracts ;'
John of Wilton, junior, born about fifty years pos-
terior to his namesake, and, like him, famed for his
religious lucubrations, the principal of which is
called " Horologium Sapientis ;" and Thomas of
Wilton, a divine of the reign of Edward IV. distin-
guished by abilities which recommended him first to
the chancellorship, and afterwards to the deanery of
St. Paul's.— Wilton House, the seat oi' tiie noble
family of Herbert, situated in a fine park, eastward
from the town, is an extensive pile of buildings,
erected at many different times, and in various styles
of architecture. It has engaged the attention" of
several architects, who have lived in this county :
Cans, Holbein, Inigo Jones, and his son Webb,
were all employed in enlarging, or embellishing it ;
but the last hand was put to it by the late acade-
mician, Wyatt, who formed an enclosed, or glazed
cloister for the reception of the valuable works of
art; a large court-yard on the north, a lodge, and.
a new side to the house. On a triumphal arch,
which forms the approach to the house, is a bold
equestrian figure of Marcus Aurelius. The prin-
cipal subjects of the collection within, are an Ama-
zonian Queen, a Colossal Hercules, Marcus Anto-
ninus the Orator, a Dying Hercules, an Apollo
two feet high, Cupid, Saturn, Venus, a Colossal
Apollo, JSsculapius, a Naiad, a Faun, a small
statue of Bacchus, and a Venus sleeping ; busts of
Octavia and Popprea, Nero's wives, 31. Brutus,
J. Cassar, Alcibiades, Hannibal, Pindar, Sophocles,
Pompey, Cleopatra, Adrian, Lepidus Miltiades,
Semiramis, the courtesan Aspasia, Lucan, Cara-
calla, and some succeeding emperors ; Aventinus,
the son of Hercules, one of the best ; and a Pyrrhus,
so noble that it is impressed, says Gilpin, with the
whole character of a hero. Among the relievoes,
ar,e the Story of Clelia ; Niobe, and her children ;
Cupid, Venus, and Mars ; Curtins sacrificing him-
self; Ulysses in the cave of Calypso; and some
others, of which a Hercules in the garden of the
Hesperides, of mosaic work, is remarkably fine,
and perhaps unique. The pictures in this splendid
collection are not less valuable than the sculptures :
they consist chiefly of the works of Rubens, Spag-
noletto, Van Eyck, and Pargmegiano ; a portrait of
Titian, by himself; and a large family piece, by
Vandyck, of Philip, Earl of Pembroke, his countess,
tlieirsix children, and otherfigures. Genealogists de-
duce the origin of the Herbert family, from a natural
son of Henry I. whose descendant, William, son to
Sir William ap Thomas, was created first Earl of
Pembroke, and being warmly devoted to the York
party, was beheaded by the Lancastrians, after th«
battle of Edgecote, where he had been taken pri-
soner. His so,n William, the second Earl, had for
his third wife, Mary, sister to Sir Philip Sydney,
on whom Ben Jonsoa wrote the oft-repeated, and
beautiful epitaph :
Underneath this marble herse
Lies the subject of all verse ;
Syduer'a sister, Pembroke's mother :
Death, ere thou hast kill'cl another,
Wise and fair and good as she,
Time shall throw a dart at thee.
The third Earl, William, called, by pre-eminence,
tut
492
WILTSHIRE.
the Earl of Pembroke, was a truly illustrious cha-
racter, exercising many public trusts with honour
and discretion, cultivating the sciences in himself,
anil encouraging them in others. His successor,
Philip, was created Earl of Montgomery ; and,
leaving a numerous family, was succeeded by his
son. The present nobleman, George, eleventh Earl
of Pembroke, and eighth of Montgomery, is a general
in the army. — There is a strong reason for supposing
Wilton House to have been the birth-place of Philip
Massinger, * as his father passed many years in the
service of the Earl of Pembroke.
WILSFORD.] — In the parish of Wilsford, on the
"bank of the Avon, is situated Lake House, the seat
of the Rev. Edward Duke, a respectable and pic-
turesque edifice, surrounded by grounds laid out in
the taste, good or bad, of the 16tb century. In
the immediate vicinity of this mansion are several
barrows, and westward, an ancient bank and ditch.
WILY.] — At the distance of a mile from the vil-
lage of Wily, on the river of that name, is a large
British encampment, called Bilbury Rings, de-
fended, as well by its elevated site, as by triple
trenches and valla. Its area is seventeen acres and
a quarter, and has been found to contain many relics
of Romaa and British habitation.— Southward, and
near Grovely Wood, are some extensive works,
called West Down, which occupy the summit and
the declivity of a hill, and are connected by a ditch.
Here also have been found some remains of ancient
art; and it should be observed, that a ditch and
rampart connect these with Stockton-works, already
noticed. — The environs c-f Grovely Wood are dis-
tinguished by four other ancient works, which have
been denominated East Castle, Grovely Castle,
Grovely Works, and Hamshill Ditches. The first
is a small earth-work, of curious construction ; like
an excavated barrow, and no more than three
quarters of an acre in area ; Grovely Castle is an
irregular and slight earth-work, which appears
never to have been completed or occupied ; Grovely
Works, of a crescent form, occupy sixty acres of
surface, and evidently constitute the remains of a
British town, which had subsequently a Roman \
population ; and Hamshill Ditches are likewise the
site of a British town, having strong ramparts, a
projecting ditch, and marks of habitation. — At the
village of Steeple Langford, in this neighbourhood,
was born Thomas Merriott, a divine, and author,
of the 17th century.
W:NKF.I.BURY CAMP.] — W'mkelbury Camp, an
entrenchment, consisting of a single ditch and
vallum, which enclose an area of twelve acres and \
a half, is situated near the Tillage of Berwick Si
John ; in the vicinity of which are seen other en-
campments, as Bokerly Ditch, near Tippet, and
Chiselbury Camp. The former of these, is of large
dimensions, extending from the site of a British
town, in Cranbourn Chace, to another, near Wind-
mill Hill, with a continuation to Martin, and nume-
rous branches. In a barrow on this ditch was found
a skeleton, near the head of which were two beads
of glass, one of jet, and a beautiful ornament,
enamelled and set in gold ; several articles of iron,
and a circular bracelet of ivory. Another tumulus
was found to contain two skeletons, some beautiful
urns ; and, at the depth of eleven feet from these,
a third skeleton, with the legs drawn up, a brazen
dagger, with a wooden scabbard, two jet ornaments,
four arrow-heads of flint, a brass pin, and a hollow
vessel, which had perhaps been the drinking cup of
the interred. Chiselbury Camp, placed on the com-
manding brow of a hill, is a single ditched entrench-
ment, in form an irregular circle, with a vallum,
twenty- seven feet high, and an area of tea acres
and a half.
WINTERBOURNE EARLS.] — Near the village of
Wiuterbourne Earls, is a circular earth- work, called
Chlorus Camp, because ascribed to Constantius
Chlorus, a Roman general in Britain ; and on its
southern side is the lofty Agger, which formerly
connected the two stations, Sorbiodunum (Old
Sarutn) and Venta Belgaran (Winchester) of the
Romans.
WINTERSLOW.] — At Winterslow, a village in the
neighbourhood of Winterbourne Earls, Roche Court,
the seat of F. T. Egerton, Esq. is built in the manner
of au Italian villa, of stone ; and surrounded by a
manor of nearly 2000 acres, neatly planted and
enclosed by a ring fence. In this neighbourhood, or
the southern slope of Dean Hills, is Cowsfield
House, the seat of Sir Arthur Paget, K. B. a delight-
ful fermeornee, in a diversified, fertile, and well-
wooded country.
WOTTON BASSET.] — Wotton Basset, 36 miles N
by W. from Salisbury, is a market-town, and one
of those ancient boroughs, which preserve their right
of representation, long after their condition can war-
rant the enjoyment of such a privilege, or guan
against its abuse. Its corporation is composed of i
mayor, two aldermen, and twelve burgesses ; anc
the elective franchise is vested in the inhabitan
householders, legally settled, and paying scot ant
lot. The public buildings are an old church, ;
market house, a town-hall, and two free-schools
which were founded by the Earl of Clarendon, eac!
* This eminent dramatic poet -was sent by his father to St.
Albaii's Hall, Oxford ; but quitted it abruptly, on the death of
his careful parent ; and, going to London, sat down to write
for the stage. From 1606, till 1640, the year of his death, his
labours were unremitted ; notwithstanding which, he was so
ill-remunerated, as to be sometimes absolutely destitute. He
was, say his biographers, a man of singular modesty, gentle-
ness, and candour. His dramas are distinguished by copiou:
ness and energy of diction ; by artful construction, and eas
developement of fable, ingenuity of incident, and exact di
crimination and consistency of character. The record of h
interment, in the register of St. Saviour's Southwark, is strikin;
ly consistent with the obscurity of his earthly pilgrimage
March 20, 1639-40, buried Philip Massinger, A STRANGER !
fo
WILTSHIRE.
for twelve children. An ancient manor-house, which
is situated on a considerable eminence, has been
con verted into a farm -house. It should be remarked,
that the greater number of the houses in Wotton
Basset belong to Joseph Pitt, Esq. who, conse-
quently, has great influence iu the nomination of the
members.
TABLE OF DISTANCES.
The Names of the respective Towns are on the top and side, and the square where both meet git-es the Distance.
Amesbut
Distance
from Loiu
27
Braclforc
100
>3
13
Calne
„ 91
«
1 1
()
(Jliippfiilr.ii
97
30
7
10
5 Corsham
95
JO
10
1R
I7JI5
Corsli
101
to
30
3
17
2023
33
Crick
lade
84
16
7
10! 7
13
24
Devizes
90
17
4
90
30
30
33
24
20
Great Bed win
170
14
15
90
19
IS
7
33
13
28 Heytesburj
y3
35
4
90
'«
33
35
8
23
1835
11
ghworth
17
20
30
14
84
10
47
86
32 7
51
Hitulon
9(j
33
9
6
4
K
13
20
8
25.15
23
23
Laycocli
.. . 93
M
91
Hi
10
u
35
12
20
3029
t
JO
14
13
Malmsbury
. . . . 95
19
87
14
'.'(i
34
23
10
14
1924
1636
IS
23
Marlborou
83
20
30
25
36
10
42
23
36J11V
45
5
25
35
34
Mere
...', |().)
22
5
8
6
(
U'
86
18
25J14
2622
4
16 22 20
Melk
IS
25
IS
18
20
88
20
8
10 IS
1929
18
25
6
28
30
17
\\
19
3C
17
23
•27
30
18
17
ffe
143524
27
5
22
9
R
33
30
33
34
20
46
23
84,' 17
i
43
10
30
52 27
24*29
19
25 Salisbury 80
34
17
13
9
10
25
17
19
3328|2433
13
52535
15
25
29 40!Sherston 99
20
91
14
18
2030
9
19
2530 645
|
19
161040
22
15
12 37 19Swindon 83
a
3
13
13
8
7
30
10
27,1133
17
8
27
24
IS
5
19
25 30 19 26 Trowbridge 98
18
11
21
15
15
3
38
17
2S 342
9
15
3531
10
13
20
28 22 35 36 8 Warminster ." 97
'JO
7
17
13
13
3
34
14
29 839
13
12
2526
13
9
20
3026'2233 4 4 Westbury , 97
Wilton
7
30
28
31
3o|l8
45
21
25,1343
13
55
41
27
1827
,9
27 338 3627 1923 Wilton 83
Wotton Basset
39
22
D
12
13
25
8
16
2225|ll
4?
12
10
15
35
17
17
18 36'l3 (. ,'23026 27| Wotton Basset 88
VOL. IV.— MO. 176.
TABLE
-495
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WORCESTERSHIRE.
496
WORCESTERSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.
THE inland county of Worcester, situated
nearly in tlie centre of the kingdom, is
bounded, by Staffordshire, on the north ; by War-
wickshire, on (he cast; by Gloucestershire, on the
south ; and by Herefordshire and Shropshire, on
the west. It is of a very irregular shape, having
on every side detached parfs surrounded by other
counties ; and in some instances, parts of other
•counties completely insulated within it. Its circum-
ference, not allowing for irregularities, cannot be
•estimated at more than 124 miles, yet if the boun-
dary line were to be precisely measured, it. would
be nearly twice that extent. Its extreme length,
from Chasely in the south-west, to Yardley in the
north-east, has been estimated at forty-three miles,
whilst the shortest line along the Severn is not more
than thirty miles, giving a medium of about thirty-
six miles in length ; and the extreme breadth from
Oldberrow in the east, to Berrington near Tenbury
in the west, is estimated at thirty-four miles ; the
shortest line from Atch Lench to Malvern may be
about eighteen ; and the mean is taken at twenty-
six miles. Thus the body of the county has been
estimated to contain 936 square miles, or 599,040
acres ; whilst the detached parts, being estimated
at 19,200, the aggregate will be 618,240 acres.
The last official returns, however, give only 431,360
acres. — Pomeroy, who drew up the first modern
agricultural survey of this county, enlarges on the
temperature of its air ; observing that even in its
highest situations, it is not so bleak as considerably
to impede vegetation ; to which lie adds, that there
are not any extensive tracts in the low lands of boggy
soil, to injure it by their exhalations. There is,
however, a degree of wild bleakness on the north-
western range of the Broadway hills, which reminds
the traveller of some of the mountainous tracts in
Derbyshire ; in which, too, the similarity is more
striking, from the stone walls, which serve for en-
closures. This degree of cold and bleakness is not
felt on the Bredon, or Malvern hills ; owing, per-
haps, in some degree, to the difference of aspect.
Pitt describes the climate ef Worcestershire, espe-
cially the middle, south, and western parts of the
county, as remarkably mild, soft, healthy, and salu-
brious ; as the vale of Severn, but little elevated
above the level of the sea, and the vallies of the
Avon and Teme, nearly upon the same level, with
the adjoining uplands, seldom rising above 100, or
at most 150 feet above their level, have at this low
elevation, a warmth and softness which ripen the
grain, and bring to perfection the produce of the
earth, from a fortnight to a month earlier than in
more elevated countries, even where the soil and
surface are similar. Amongst the more inclement
parts of the county, may be mentioned the Lickey,
which rises to the north-east of Bromsgrove, in a
ridge of high hills, and runs towards Hagley,
to the north, diverging also to the east; some of
its peaks having an elevation of 800 or 900 feet
above the general level. The Malvern hills, though
nothing more than sheep-walks, have a most salu-
brious climate ; and the north-western parts of the
county, particularly about Abberley, though of
equal elevation to any other district, seem to have a
much warmer aspect than either the Lickey or
Broadway hills, which may, perhaps, in a great
degree, be owing to the shelter of the woods, and
other plantations, which are so frequent there. Pitt
is of opinion, that less rain- falls in Worcestershire,
than in some, even of the nearest counties. In Staf-
fordshire, he says, the annual quantity has exceeded
thirjty-six inches, whilst in Worcestershire, the land
lying lower, and having fewer hills to attract and
break the clouds in their flight from the Atlantic, a
smaller quantity of annual moisture must be sup-
posed to take place. — Pomeroy describes the face
of Worcestershire, when viewed from any of the
numerous eminences, in the surrounding counties,
as "approaching rather to a plain : the gentle slopes
and risings to the east and west of Worcester, re-
maining scarcely any longer discernible. From these
points of view, the state of its cultivation appears
to very great advantage, as there are no tracts of
any considerable extent, so barren, or so totally neg-
lected, as to be without an agreeable and profitable
verdure. On a nearer view, from the central hill,
which rises more particularly to the east of the city,
a most
-^ £v"~
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S^SsSBs 3$il$f5^s
ISFfiF^fff^1
S^'H!
•^~ t_TiK\\ S' iV *5*
•»? j. TV,'", *
WORCESTERSHIRE.
497
a most beautiful landscape presents itself; the
Inick ground, which, at its greatest distance, does
not exceed twelve, and no where approaches nearer
than eight miles, (allowing something for the open-
ings to the south-west aiidnorth,) appears to be one
continuation of noble hills, forming, as it were, the
frame of the delightful picture which presents itself
in the centre, diversified with all the beauties of hill,
dale, wood, and water. If," continues he, " the
Abberley and Whitley hills occasion some irregu-
larity in the frame, they will scarcely be thought to
take oft' from the beauty of the piece ; these and
the adjoining hills, rising with a bold front, and most
of them cultivated to their summits, recal to the
mind, the enthusiastic description of Italy ; and
the sheep, hanging as it were, from the brows of
others, illustrate the much-admired idea of the
Roman poet." — The effect, also, resulting from a
nearer view of the hop-grounds and flowery orchards,
fills the breast with supreme delight.
SOIL.] — The soil of Worcestershire, which is very
•various, may yet be characterized as a fertile sandy
loam, which degenerates on the one hand into a
light sand ; and, on the other, into a black peat. Of
the latter kind, are those lands denominated waste.
Several veins, which extend, in succession, from
Worcester to the southern and western boundaries
of the county, like irregular radii, are of red marl,
strong clay with some gravel, a ricli loam, a gravelly
clay, and a deep clay on a marl bottom. The vale
of Severn is described, as containing ten thousand
acres of a deep, rich, sediment, deposited by the
waters of the river ; in some places, a pure water
clay, adapted to the making of bricks ; but gene-
rally a rich mud ; highly favourable to vegetation.
AGRICULTURE.] — It will serve to give an idea of
the farming ceeonomy of 'Worcestershire, to state
that more than one-tenth of the arable land in the
county is annually sown with wheat, and yields an
average produce of 1,200,000 bushels, which there
is a prospect of still further inereasiii!*-, by the
augmentation of enclosures, and the improved me-
thods of cultivation, which are continually gaining
ground.
CATTLE.] —As in the management of his farm, so
in the choice of his stock, the Worcestershire fanner
is remote from peculiarity ; chasing ratii.T to exer-
cise his own judgment in the choice, than to be
directed by the practice of his neighbours : this
circumstance accounts for the indescribable ano-
malies of breed to be met with in the county. •
RIVERS.] — The rivers of this county, considera-
ble both for magnitude and beauty, are the Severn,
the Avon, the Terne, and the .Stour ; to which may
be added, the small streams of Salwarp, Arrow,
Ledden, and Rea. The Severn, which, according
to some etymologists, has • its name from the old
British word, sabnn, sandy, was called in the Saxon
age, Saferne, sea-flowing ; and is supposed to be
the Sabrina to which the Romans advanced in their
hostilities with the Britons. Its progress, from
•VOL. IY. — NO. 176.
its source on Plinlimmon hill, in Montgomeryshire,
has been already traced as far as Bevvdley, whence
it flows to Ribbesford, and Stourport, where it re-
ceives the Stour, and its canah After passing
llartlebury and Molt Castle, it receives the tribute
of the Salwarp, the Droitwich canal, and the Otter-
water ; and in its course southward from Worcester
to Tewksbury, is joined by the Teme, the Avon,
and numerous petty currents, which increase its
size considerably before it enters Gloucestershire.
In this river salmon were formerly abundant ; the
shad, or chad, is found in great perfection ; the-
samlet, a small kind of trout, is very common ; lam-
preys abound ; and, in the month of April, the
small fry of the Conger eel literally swarm. The
navigation of the Severn, practicable for vessels of
110 tons, to Gloucester, of 80 to Worcester, and
of 60 as far as Bewdley bridge, without the assist-
ance of locks, is carried on by three kinds of craft ;
small barges of from 20 to 40 tons burden, with
one square sail ; larger vessels, or trows, from 40
to 80 tons burden, with a mast and top-mast, rigged
with square sails ; and lighters, or boats of a con-
struction proper for canals. In the summer, how-
ever, owing to the lowness of the stream, a number
of shoals and shallows obstruct the passage of all
but small craft further than the middle of the coun-
ty. This inconvenience has taxed the invention of
the best engineers ; but, as yet, no mean has been
found by which it may be obviated. — The Avon,
already described under the head of Warwickshire,
as far as Stratford, enters Worcestershire, near
Cleeve Prior, where it is met by the Arrow; then,
passing Littleton and Offenham, it almost circum-
scribes Evesham, passes Hampton, Fladbary, Per-
shore, Croome, and Strensham, and is received by.
the majestic Severn at Tewkesbury, itself receiving
in this course of twenty miles numerous petty brooks
and rivulets, and being navigable the whole distance
for barges. — The Teme, which rises in Radnorshire,
enters this county at Tenbury, receives several
rivulets in its course by Eastham, Ly ndridge, Stock-
ton, Broadvvas, and Coteridge, and augments the
stream of the Severn, below Worcester, is remark-
able for the picturesque beauty which it.bestows and
receives, in its course of twenty miles through or-
chards and hop-grounds, and a champaigne coun-
try, so highly cultivated as to present the appearance
of a garden.— The Stour rises near Frankley, runs
alternately in this and the neighbouring county of
Stafford, and joins the Severn at Stourport. — Sal-
warpe rises in the Lickey, is accompanied, through
Salwarpe parish, by the new canal, and, with that,
becomes tributary to the Severn, below Hawford-
bridge. — The Ledden forms the boundary of the
county towards Gloucestershire, in the south-west ;
and the Rea, which rises near Chad wick, is a sort
of limit to this county, and the neighbouring shires^
of Stafford and Warwick.
MINERALS, Fosstts, &c.]— Though Worcester^
shire boasts uo mines of the useful metals, there is
6* BO
498
WORCESTERSHIRE.
* Anagallis arreiisis 3. I'lue Pimpernel!; in a cornfield
at the top of Overbury wood, and on Bredon
hill.
Astragalus arenare us. Mountain Milk Vetcli : on the side of
Bredon hill, below the camp.
Campanula puiula. Spreading Bell flower : in hedges by wood
sides, near Worcester, Malvern,and elsewhere.
_. 1 on the bunks of
CdrOamne amora. Bitter Cress, or Bitter /(bc A be]ow
Ladies bmock : > £nrn|)Plton
— — hirsuta. Hairy Ladies Smock ; J plentifully!
Carduus eriophorus. Woolly-headed Thistle: on Bredon
hill.
Chlora perfoliaia. Perfoliate Yellow Gentian ; in pastures
of a stiff clay soil ; about Great Comberton,
and elsewhere.
Colchicum aittumnale. Autumnal meadow Saffron: in pastures
and low meadows; frequent about Great Com-
berton, Great Malvern, Kyie, and elsewhere.
Comarum pulustre. Purple Marsh Cinquefoil : on boggy
places ; on the^Licky, near Bromsgroye.
Cynogloisum officinale ft. var. (fol. virento.) ' Green-leaved
Hounds' Tongue: near the three mile-stone
going from Worcester to Pershore.
Daphne Laurcola. Spurge Laurel : in woods and hedges, near
Pershore.
ianthus armeria. Deptford Pink : on banks, under hedges,
in a clay soil, about Pershore, Eckington,
Great Comberton, and elsewhere.
Festuca pennata. Spiked Fescue Grass: in meadows of a clay
soil, about Combcrlon and Pershore, plenti-
fully.
Fumaria clariculuta WhHe Climbing Fumitory, in rough
stony places ; by the side of Malvern hill, above
Great Malvern town.
Calantlms Nicalis. Snowdrop ; at the foot of Malvern hills.
Geranium prtUe use. Meadow Crane's-bill, with a large blue
tlower : in moist meadows, and among bushes.
Hippocrcpis comma. Tufted Horse-shoe Vetch : oti the south
side of the Bredon hills, below the camp.
Vi/oscris minima. Swine's Succory ; in Pensham field, near
Pershore, in barren and gravelly places,
no want of sub strata, which, combined with the
fertile character of the surface, are scarcely less
profitable. In the hills is an abundance of lime-
stone, which is not generally applied as manure,
from the scarcity of coal in some districts : In the
north-western parts, indeed, and at Pensax, some
of this useful mineral is raised, but under great
disadvantages. In the Malvern Hills, the siliceous
substance, called quartz, is found plentifully ; in
Clecve Prior jv-trisb, are quarries of very good stone,
which is capable of receiving a fine polish; and a
reddish kind of stone is found in the quarries of the
Broadway hills. Dudley, the centre of two ranges
of hills ; one, of limestone, to the north ; the other,
of basalt, or trapp, to the south ; is itself surrounded
almost six miles every way by iron ore and coal ;
and, in its more immediate neighbourhood, the castle
is undermined by prodigious quarries of limestone,
which; for their vast extent and rude formation, are
a sort of curiosity. These caverns are distinguished j
by the discovery in them of various marine fossile
substances, as echine, cortiua ammonis, and the pedi-
CM/MS marinut, or sea louse, which last production
•resembles the common wood louse, except that it is
trilobated, and exceeds it considerably in
some specimens measuring five inches in length.
', The talc, gypsum, or alabaster, found about the
salt springs of Droitwich, is of an extraordinary
description : being a shining, squamose, fossil stone,
of a whitish colour, composed of a gypseous earth,
I which does not ferment with acids ; but is easily
pulverized by heat. — Of mineral springs, besides
i the wells at Malvern, there are several useful chaly-
beates in Kidderminster parish ; and on Burlish
common is a spring, called the dropping well ; very
efficacious as a remedy for sore eyes.
PLANTS.]— The list of rare plants, found in Wor-
! cestershire, which is not very copious, will be found
I in the note below.*
WOODS, WASTES, &c.] — In early times, Worces-
j tershire appears to bave been almost entirely covered
with trees ; and at the Conquest, it was considered
to include five forests : Feckenbam, Ombersley,
Horewdl, Malvern, and Wyre. Of these, Fecken-
ham was very extensive, stretching from Worcester
to Evcsham, Spetchley, and Sidbury ; Ombersley
extended from Worcester along the banks of the
Severn ; Horewell, from Worcester to Spetchley
and
Hypcricum montanum. Mountain St. John's-wort ; on banks,
under hedges and by wood-sides ; about Per-
shore and Bredon hill.
tlypocliccris glabra. Smooth Hypochseris ; in Pensham field.
itieris nudicaulis. Rock Cress : in some old gravel-pits by the
side of Pensham field.
Inula Ilclenium. Elecampane : plentifully on that side of
Bredon hill, in the ascent from Great Com-
bertoa.
Iris fatidissima. Stinking Iris or Gladwyn : in woods about
Great Comberton.and elsewhere in the neigh-
bourhood of Pershore.
- Xiphium. Blue Flowered Iris, or Flower de Luce ; by
the sides of rivers near Fladbury, and some
other places in this county ; lately discovered
to be a native of England, by the Duchess
of Portland. Dr. Nash's History of Worces-
tershire.
Lathyn
Everlasting.
and Cotkington.
Afalva Moscluita. Musk Mallow ; in moist meadows, among
bushes.
Melissa Calcimintha. Wood Calamint ; in woods and hedges
near Malvern, and elsewhere.
Oenanthe Crocuta. Hemlock Dropwort ; by the sides of
rivers and ditches.
-- pimpinelloides. Water Dropwort, with Burnet Sax-
ifrage leaves ; by the sides of rills, on the
North side of Bredon Hill.
Ophris Apifera. Bee Orchis ; in rough pastures of a clay soil :
on the side of Great Comberton, toward
• Wooler's Hill, frequent.
Qsmundu Lunaria. Moonwort ; on the north side of Bredon
Hill, in many places; but particularly above
Wooler's Hill, in rough ground among the
Pteris Aquilina.
Paris quadrifolia. Herb Paris True Love, or Oneberry ; in
woods and thickets, OH the sides of Bredon
Bill.
Parnassi*
WORCESTERSHIRE.
and ThurgnrJon, in an easterly direction, including
the whole district between the Severn and Avon ;
Malvern extended from the 'Feme to Gloucestershire,
in length, nnd, in breadth, from the Severn to
the summit of the Malvern hills ; and Wyre forest
occupied the north-western part of the county, ex-
tending also into Shropshire and Staffordshire.
Feekenham was disafforested, under Charles 1. ;
Ombersley and Horewell, in the time of Henry III.
Malvern was granted by Edward I. to his son-in-
law, Gloucester ; and Wyre is now chiefly appro-
priated as a nursery for hop-poles, underwood, &c.
CANALS.] — The canals of Worcestershire are 1.
the Trent and Severn, or, as it is commonly deno-
minated the Stourpnrt canal ; 2. the Droitwich ; 3.
the Worcester and Birmingham ; 4. the Dudley Ex-
tension canal ; and, 5. the Leominster. The Stour-
port, one of -the earliest efforts of Brindley, having
been completed, about 1779, at an expence of
105, OOO/. enters the county at Wolverley, and ac-
companies the Stotir till both meet the Severn ; a
distance of nine miles, in which there are nine locks,
and a fall of ninety feet. Its utility and its effects
will be observed in our description of Stourport.
— The Droitwirh canal, also undertaken by Brind-
ley, in 1768, after several attempts of other indivi-
duals, was completed, in 1771, at an expence of
25,000/. It has, in its course of five miles and a
half,' a fall of sixty feet, and six Jocks. Coals and
salt are the chief articles of carriage. In 1790, a
canal was projected between Birmingham and the
deep water of the Severn, at Worcester, for vessels
of sixty tons burden. This scheme, alarming to
canal proprietors, boat-owners, and consumers of
coal, met with great opposition ; and was not car-
riedj but on the representation that the vessels
employed on this, would not diminish the value of
those fitted for a shallower navigation ; that the coal
country might be looked upon as inexhaustible, and
that the proprietors gave up all claim to mill-
streams. Fifteen thousand pounds were expended
in the preliminary steps. In its present state, the
canal commences with a tunnel, under a hill near
Birmingham ; continues three or four miles with a
depth of six feet, crossed by bridges of elevation
sufficient to permit the passage of any barges ; and
•meets with two deep valleys, the crossing of which
was an exertion of much labour and science ; being
effected by embankments of loose marl, necessarily
supported by frame-work, and props of timber.
In the second of these embankments, a tunnel was
farnassia palustris. Grass of Parnassus ; in some low boggy
meadows, on the south side of Bredon Hill,
and eastward of Overbury.
•Satyrium Firide. Frog Orchis ; in meadows ami pastures
about Great Comberton, towards Wooler's
Hill, frequent.
Scabiesa columbaria. Lesser Field Scabious ; on Brecon
Bill.
Sfdum album. Wlvlp Stone Crop ; on the cocks'by the side
of Malvern Hill, above Malvera town.
constructed under the bed of the canal, of sufficient
height to permit the passage of a loaded waggon.
Another obstruction was to be conquered near King's
Norton, in the shape of a bed of loose marl, full of
springs, through which it was necessary to cut a
tunnel. The summit level of this extraordinary
example of perseverance, is sixteen miles and three
quarters in length ; and the fall from this level is
so great, as to require a course of lockage four
hundred and fifty feet perpendicular. — The Exten-
sion canal, which has two collnteral cuts from
Windmill End to Dudley, passes Comberwood and
Hales Owen, is crossed by the high road in the
vicinity of the Leasowes, passes through a tunnel
of two miles in length, and falls into the Worcester
and Birmingham, near Selly Oak. Its course on
this line of ten miles and a half, is quite a dead
level. — The Leominster canal was originally in-
tended to have its course in Worcestershire from
Tenbury to the Severn at Bewdley, or Stourport ;
but it has met with many obstructions, from the
peculiar nature of the soil through which it is out ;
— a loose marl, which almost everywhere yields to
the pressure of the water, and occasions great, injury
to the roads, and the labours of the agriculturist.
TRADE AND MANUFACTCRES.] — So many ready
channels of intercourse, at once the cause and the
effect of successful commerce, cannot fail to have
a palpable influence on its conduct and direction.
Hence we enumerate among the exported produce
of Worcestershire, hops, fruits, cider, and perry ;
among its manufactures, Kidderminster goods, Wor-
cester gloves, glass and china-ware, nails and other
small articles of iron-work ; with bar, rod, and sheet
iron for the northern districts. Viewing local pecu-
liarities, in their relation to trade, Droitwich is famou*
for its salt ; Evesham, for its oil and oil-cake; and
several distrcts, for corn and cattle.
ROADS.] — Of the roads of Worcestershire, it may
be observed, that, where they are supported by toll-
gates, they are usually in a good state ; much heavy
carriage being taken from them by canals ; in the
hilly districts, however, they are rough and uneven :
and many, particularly in the clay district, may be
pronounced absolutely bad. In general sufficient
attention is not given to the opening of ditches -and
drains, and the cutting of hedges and trees which
overhang the roads, and prevent the free passage of
heat and air. The cross rouds, except a few, are
not better repaired ; and, in the vale of Evesham,
they were, a few years since, so much neglected, as
Scupus romanus. Singje headed Club-rush ; in marshy places,
near '1 hrpgmorton.
Smyrnium Olusatrum. Alexanders; between Comberton and
Woofer's Hill; under some hedges of some
enclosures, near the Avon.
Spiraa Filipendula. Dropwort ; on Bredon Hills, above
Overbury, plentifully.
Vaccinium Oii/coccus. Cranberries ; in the boggy parts of
the Licky, near Dromsgrove.
Vida sylwtica. Straited Wood Vetch ; in a thicket, on the
nortU side of Bredon Hill.
to
500
WORCESTERSHIRE.
to be almost impassable ; happily, however, for the
safety and convenience of the traveller, and for the
interest of that fertile district, a better spirit begins
to appear, and the establishment of a club, called
the " Society of the Vale of Evesham," bids fair
to redeem the reputation of those necessary chan-
nels of communication : the laudable exertions of
this society having1 already brought the direct Lon-
don road, to Worcester, through their vicinity.
ETYMOLOGY.] — The etymology of the name of this
county has been much disputed. Camdeu says, the
second part of the country of the Cornavii has now
changed its name to Worcestershire, whose inhabi-
tants, with others round about, were called in Bede's
times, before England was divided, Wiccii ; and
he adds, that if this name do not come from the
winding river, whose banks they inhabit, (the creeks
of a river being called by the Saxons tcic,) it seems
derived from the saltpits, which, in the old English
language, are called Wiches. We are told, how-
ever, that the Welch gave Worcester the name of
" Caerwraugon," or the fortified city ; and that the
Saxons wrote it " Wiga-erne," or .the Warrior's
Lodge. Some have supposed it to have been the
Braiiogenium of the Romans, which Ilorselcy, how-
ever, asserts to have been Ludlow ; but he acknow-
ledges that Ravennas applies that name to Wor-
cester, at the same time that he uses " Sarva" for
Sabrina. The name of " Caer Guarangon," is to
be found in an old British writer ; and some of those
who wrote soon after him, particularly Alfred of
Beverly, and Henry of Huntingdon, are of opinion
that the name applies to Worcester ; whilst in
Domesday-book it appears to have had the appella-
tion of " Wirecestre ;" and its present Latin name
is " Wigornia." " Wire-Cestre" may have signified
the Carnp, or Castle of the forest of Wyre.
GENERAL HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, &c.] — The
early history of this county is as obscure as the origin
of the name ; but it is thought to have been known
to the Phoenicians in their visits to Britain. — Of its
Roman history, we also know but little. Ilorseley
observes, that Ptolemy takes no notice of any part
of this county ; adding, that it is not traced or
crossed in Antoninus'.s Itinerary, the nearest part
being in the 13th Iter from Glevum, or Gloucester,
to Ariconium near to the present Ross. Yet Horse-
ley afterwards acknowledges, on the authority of
Dion and Suetonius, that " Ostorius being made
Propraetor of, Britain, found affairs there much in
confusion, the enemies having made inroads into
the territories of the Roman allies. Ostorius takes
at once the readiest cohorts ; kills those who resist ;
and pursues those who were dispersed, to prevent
their gathering to a body agiiiit. He disarms the
suspected, builds forts, and posts his forces upon
the rivers Antona, (Avon) and Sabrina, to keep in
the enemy." On a geographical view of these two
rivers, it is evident that the Roman army must have
been in Worcestershire ; and this is further con-
firmed Uy Gale, in his work on the Itinerary of
Antoninus, page 150, where he assorts, that Sabrinn
is the Severn, which is clear, both from the legen-
dary story, noticed by Milton, in his Comus, and
ttie affinity of names, as wel! as from the authority of
Ptolemy. He is also of opinion, that Antona must
be Avon, though some have written the ancient
name Aufona, which is changed into Abona, by the
anonymous writer of Ravennas. The Roman roads
are also a convincing proof that Worcestershire par-
took of the civilization of that people. A raised
way, on the edge of the county, between Worces-
ter and Alcester, in Warwickshire, called the
" Ridgeway ;" and a paved way from Kenchester,
leading to a passage over the river Lug, and thence
towards Led bury, pointing' to' Worcester, are be-
lieved to be Roman. Salmon also asserts, that there
is a Roman way from Worcester, crossing Shrop-
shire, and a road, or fosse, running through Block-
ley parish. The Consular way, or Ikening Street,
passes from Alcester, through Alvechurch parish, into
Staffordshire, and again appears at Shipley, in
Bromsgrove ; and another passes through Hagley
common, now named King's Head Land, supposed
by Nash to have been anciently called the Portway.
At Hagley, several coins of the lower empire have
been found, particularly in the fields adjoining to
the large camp, on Witchbury Hill, where about
fifty years ago, an earthen pot, filled with them, was
taken out of a pool on the side of the hill. " in
1736," says Stukeley, " a farmer, stubbing up an
old tree, which grew on the hill, very near Witch-
bury Camp, discovered an iron chain, almost rotten
with age and rust, in which hung, as in a sling, a
round stone, about the size of a man's head, a groove
being cut quite round the stone, the more com mo -
diously to receive the chain. On float Heath, about
a mile and a half below Witchbury, are five barrows,
which were, perhaps, thrown up by the Romans, the
constant tradition of the inhabitants assigning them
to that people. One of these was opened some years
ago, and contained a considerable quantity of burnt
wood and ashes, at the depth of fourteen feet. Two
others have been since opened, in one of which, at
about the depth of two feet, exactly in the centre,
was discovered an urn, filled with small human
bones, very white, to the quantity of two quarts.
The urn was broken all to pieces by the workman's
spade, and appeared to be of very coarse ill burnt
clay. At about the depth of two feet lower, on the
west side of this tumulus, was a large quantity of
burnt wood, bones, ashes, &e. The inhabitants of
Clent and Hagley talk of an engagement which
happened on the spot, between the Romans and
Britons ; these may have been the places of sepulture
of those who fell." Stukeley also tells us, that a
Roman road goes from Worcester, along the river
to Upton, where antiquities have been discovered,
and which town he supposes to have been the
" Ypocessa" of the Romans ; from thence it goes
to Tewkesbury, where it meets with the " Ricning"
street way. Other ancient writers have asserted,
that
WORCESTERSHIRE.
,501
that Worcester was founded by Constantius Clilorus,
to prevent the incursions of the Britons.
The Saxons began to settle here about the year
450, hut did not get possession of the interior of the
island for some years ai'ter, when they established
the kingdom of Mercia, in which Worcestershire
was included. The Britons, on being expelled from
the low and fertile lands, retired across the Severn
into Wales, whose almost inaccessible mountains and
passes, they not only guarded against Saxon en-
croachment, but they also endeavoured, at different
times, to regain the seats of their ancestors, and thus
made the frontier counties the seat of war and de-
vastation. During the predatory assaults of the
Danes, Worcestershire was often the scene of deadly
contests. About two centuries ago, in a field in the
parish of Crowle, adjoining to llodington, was dis-
covered a stone coffin, lined with lead, containing
the mouldering bones of a man, with an cartliern
pitcher, or urn, at the head. These were supposed
to be the relics of some Danish warrior ; an opinion
which seems to be confirmed by the quantities of
bones frequently ploughed up around this place, and
by the traces of fortifications, which, though now
overgrown with wood, were very distinguishable
not many years ago. — Amongst the Danish remains
in this county, may be mentioned a small oval camp,
on Conderton hill, in Overbury parish. This camp,
near Bredon hill, is 105 yards long, and 74 wide.
Round it also some Roman coins have been found.
— During the Heptarchy, the Wiccii were under the
episcopal jurisdiction of Worcester, the principal
Mercian See; but, on the accession of the Conque-
ror, this episcopal government was superseded, and
the civil power intrusted to the Earls of Worcester.
CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS, &c.] —
This county, which is included in the Oxford circuit,
and belongs to the province of Canterbury, is divided
into five hundreds, comprising 167 parishes, and 7
parts of parishes. It has 9 petty sessions, and 40
county magistrates.
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.] — This county
returns 9 members to parliament : 2 for the shire ;
1 for Bewdley ; and two for each of the other bo-
roughs marked in the succeeding head.
MARKET TOWNS, &c.] — The following are the
market towns, boroughs, &c. of
their population respectively :
Towns. Market Days.
Bewdley* Satimlay .
this county, with
Population.
1801 1811
_, 3071 3454
Bromsgrove Tuesday 5898 6932
Droitwiclr* Friday 1373 2079
Dudley Saturday 10,107 13,925
Evesham* Monday 2165 3068
Kidderminster Thursday 8036 8038
Pershore Tuesday 1910
Shiptton Friday 1293 1377
Stourbridge Friday 3431 4072
Tenbury Thursday 1138 1562
Upton Tuesday 1858 2023
Worcester* Wednes. Fri. and Sat. 11,911 13,814
k The places thus distinguished return members to parliament.
VOL. IV. — NO. 177.
i FAIRS. — /Ihechurch — May 3; Aug. 10, all sorts of
' cattle, sheep and lambs.
Belbroughtun — First Monday in April, Monday
before St. Luke, Oct. 18 ; horned cattle, horses and
cheese.
\ Bewdley — April 23, horned cattle, horses, cheese,
linen and woollen cloth ; Monday before July 26,
cattle, cheese, and all other merchandize ; Dec. 10,
hogs only ; Dec. 1 1, horned cattle, horses, cheese,
linen and woollen cloth.
BtockJey — Tuesday after Easter week, cattle ;
Oct. 10, for hiring servants.
Bromsgrove— June 24, Oct. 1, linen cloth, cheese
and horses.
Droitwich — Friday in Easter week, June 18,
Sept. 24, Dec. 18, cattle, cheese, wool and other
merchandize; Sept. 23, for hiring servants.
Dudley — May 8, cattle, wool, cheese ; August 5,
lambs, cattle ; October horses, cattle, wool and
cheese.
Eves/tarn — Candlemas-day, Feb. 2, Monday after
Easter week, Whit-Monday, Sept. 21, cattle and
horses.
Feckenham— March 26, Sept. 30, cattle.
Kidderminster — Palm-Monday, cattle, sheep, and
pedlary ; Holy Thursday, June 20, Sept. 4, horned
cattle, horses, cheese, linen and woollen cloth.
King's Norton — April 25, Sept. 5, cattle of all sorta.
Pershore — Easter Tuesday, June 26, Tuesday
before All Saints, Nov. 1, cattle and horses.
Redditch — First Monday in Aug. cattle of all sorts.
Shipston — Third Tuesday in April, cattle and
horses. :i;ii /
Shipton — June 22, Tuesday after Oct. 10, horses
cows, and sheep.
Stowbridge — March 29, horses and other cattle ;
j Sept. 8, cattle of all sorts, and sheep.
Stourport near Bendlei/ — Easter Monday, a meet-
! ing for horned cattle, hops, &c. Sept. 13, an annual
meeting for cattle, hops, &c.
Tenbury — April 23, July 18, Sept. 26, horned
cattle, horses, and sheep.
Upton — First Thursday after Midlent, Thursday
in Whitsun week, horses, cattle, and sheep ; July
10, Thursday before St. Matthew, Sept. 21, horses,
cattle, sheep, and leather.
Worcester — Saturday before Palm Sunday, Satur-
day in Easter week, cattle, horses, and linen cloth ;
August 15, Sept. 19, First Monday in December,
cattle, horses, cheese, lambs, hops, and linen cloth ;
Second Monday in February, 1st Monday in May,
June, July, and November, cattle, &c.
POPULATION.] — The population of this county, in
1700; was 88?200 ; in 1750, 108,000; in 1801,
139,333 (exclusively of those serving in the navy
and army, estimated at 4567) ; and in 181 1, 160,546 ;
or, including those engaged in the naval and mili-
tary service of their country, 165,900. — The annual
births in Worcestershire are as I to 32 ; the marri-
ages, as 1 to 132 ; the deaths, as 1 to 52.
6 L Summary
502
WORCESTERSHIRE.
Summary of the Population of the County of WORCESTER, as publishc d !>y Authority nf Parliament, in 1811.
HUNDREDS, &c.
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
Inhabited.
rl
n o
C -o
Z 8.3
S~ a.
j= '5
>>a
--
Buildings.
Uninhabited.
>-,
!•«•£
•5 "3 3
VI ^1*3
.y ° 3
= 0/C
£ £ 00
« w<<
M
>,
<S a .
^|S
01 4> <H «
u £> - £
— 0 <U £
'e °-« 3.
rs s i~ u
(n jjf-'vS
All other Fami-
lies not comprised
in the two pre-
ceding Classes.
Males.
Females.
Total
of
Persons.
604
2928
10135
6991
4480
423
674
1546
2425
629
3486
11008
7861
4972
562
714
1737
3155
21
84
74
20
1
6
12
38
14
107
273
137
127
11
11
60
64
461
1883
2543
5037
3233
93
313
89
167
143
1243
7444
2037
1233
161
339
1569
2691
20
360
1021
787
506
309
62
79
267
1467
7692
25850
18222
11139
967
1371
3848
5953
1524
1524
7923
27049
19207
11950
1112
1697
4190
7861
2991
15615
52899
37429
23089
2079
3068
9038
1314
1524
Halfshire
City of Worcester
Totals
30,206
34,124
256
804
13,818
16,865
3,441
78,033
82,513
160,546
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
BLACKENHURST.J — The hundred of Blackenhurst,
which comprehends the south-eastern district of the
county, consists of two divisions : the Upper, which
includes Aldington, Badsey, Bretforton, Evesham,
Huniborn, Poden, Littleton North, Middle, and
South, Oft'enham, and Wickhamford ; and the
Lower, which is composed of the parishes of Ab-
bots' Morton, Atch Lench, Hampton, Lenchwick,
Norton, Oldberrow, Ombersley, and Sheriff's Lench.
Bengeworth, a small trading town, situated on
the Avon, is remarkable as the site of a monastery,
and of a seat of the Beauchamps. Conjointly with
Evesham, it enjoys the right of representation in
parliament, and has a corporation, composed of a
mayor, high steward, recorder, chamberlain, seven
aldermen, and twelve capital burgesses, in whom,
and in six hundred and twenty common burgesses,
the right of voting is vested. The church, though
sufficiently ancient, is distinguised by no object of
peculiar interest. The only edifice which bears the
appearance of a public building, is the free-school
in the principal street, where thirty of the poorest
boys of the parish are clothed and instructed.
The parish of Blockley, situated in a detached
part of the county, is to be noticed for its stone
quarries, whence materials for the fences in this
neighbourhood are procured. The town has several
corn and silk mills. The church, which is very an-
cient, appears to have belonged, at some distant
period, to a religious house, said to have existed
here.
Northwic, the seat of Lord Northvvic, in this
parish, is surrounded by a demesne finely wooded
•with oak and beech, and stocked with an immense
herd of deer. The house, originally erected in a
style of ancient magnificence, was modernized by
alterations and repairs, chiefly under tlte tasteful
superintendance of Lord Burlington, about the com-
mencement of last century.
The long straggling village of Broadway, called
BroadwayStreet, from being situated on the London
road, is built entirely of stone. The church, which
is rather isolated, contains a little stained glass, and
some dilapidated monuments of the Sheldons. On
the neighbouring hills, is Springhill, an elegant
seat of the Earl of Coventry, surrounded by thriv-
ing plantations ; and, at a small distance, is Furn-
liiiin Abbey, also a modern building, but in the
Gothic style. This last, erected by Sir John Cot-
terel, commands an extensive and delightful pros-
pect over Worcestershire, and is surrounded by a
demesne redeemed from the bleakness of the emi-
nence, by plantations, which have been disposed with
considerable taste and good effect.
Cleeve Prior, a pleasant village on the southern
bank of the Avon, has its name from the picturesque
range of cliffs in its vicinity. Some labourers in a
quarry, discovered here, a few years ago, two pots,
in which were coins of Gratian, Valentinian, Theo-
dosius, and others, both of gold and silver, with
some counterfeits of the former.
Like many other places in this delightful vicinage,
the little village of Cropthorne presents a scene of
picturesque beauty, modelled entirely by the hand
of nature, and not defaced by the appearance of
artificial objects. A vault of the Dinely family,
exactly under the altar of the church, has the pecu-
liar quality of preserving the bodies from decom-
position ; and the sacred edifice is otherwise remark-
able for some curious monuments and inscriptions.
Dailsfbrd, a portion of the county, completely
insulated by Gloucestershire, is remarkable only for
being the seat of Mr. Hastings, the late Governor-
General of India. This gentleman's family trace
their descent from Hastings, the daring yet un-
BUC-
WORCESTERSHIRE.
505
luccessful invader of England ; and Nash tells us,
that, in the reign of Henry II. Milo de Hastings
Leld lands here of (he Bishop of Worcester. In the
time of Elizabeth they had removed to Yelford, on
account of the decay of the manor-house, hut the
estate was not alienated till 1715; and it was re-
purchased by the late owner, when the blessings of
affluence ministered to the grateful influence of family
pride.* The house occupies a commanding site ;
its elevation is very handsome, and it is furnished in
the most superb style, while the whole disposition of
the grounds bespeak a high degree of taste. The
ancient manor-house has entirely disappeared ; but
the church remains, which was deemed of such ex-
traordinary sanctity that when all the rest of the
island was under excommunication for the contu-
macy of King John, it still enjoyed the full exercise
of all the religious offices ; and Dr. Nash judges,
from the unusual number of bones, &c. dug up here,
that it was, during the operation of such an interdict,
the cemetery of the surrounding neighbourhood.
On the Bredon hills, stands Elmley Castle, dis-
tinguished as the earliest known settlement of the
ancient and now extinct family of Beauchamp, of
•whose mansion, however, but small remains exist.
The church contains many monuments, one of which
is remarkable for the fulsome praise with which it
was intended to honour an ancestor of the present
Earl of Coventry. Elmley is said to have given birth
to Bishop Bonner.
What is usually called the vale of Evesham, is an
extensive tract, enclosed between the banks of the
Avon, on the one hand ; and the boundaries of Glou-
cestershire, on the other ; famed for its fertility,
and remarkable for the agricultural skill displayed
by its inhabitants. Of this district, the principal
town is Evesham, situated 16 miles S. E. from
Worcester, on a spot, almost surrounded by the
Avon. The object which, in its history and its ex-
isting features, claims the greatest share of our
attention, is the abbey. This noble edifice, founded,
according to Leland, by St. Egwin, Bishop of the
Wiccii, and, by him, dedicated to the Virgin, is
stated, on the authority of Brown Willis, to have
possessed at one time twenty-two towns , to have
maintained seventy-five religious, and sixty-five
servants ; and to have enjoyed a revenue, at the
Dissolution, of 1200/. — Perhaps the most interesting
event in the history of Evesbam and its monastic
institution was the battle, by which the most glori-
ous of our sovereigns, freed the monarchy and the
nation from the ambition of an insolent subject. In
tlie turbulent reign of Henry III. when Simon Mont-
ford stood at that stage of successful treason, at
* Who has not heard of the meritorious services of Mr.
Hastings, as Governor of India, of the protracted persecution
which he experienced at his return, and of the unwilling deci-
sion which covered him with honour, and his enemies with ig-
nominy ?— Perhaps it maybe necessary only to state, that his
birth happened in the decayed circumstances of his family ; that
his honourable exertions restored him to the rank to which his
which it is dangerous to arrive or to rest, Prince
Edward having, by the assistance of Mortimer,
eluded the vigilance of the spies, every where sta-
tioned around him, and having struck the blow, at
Kenihvorth, which, by the defeat of the younger
Montfort, gave hope to the people, and confidence
to his followers, advanced to measure his youthful
forces with those of the traitor who detained his.
sovereign a captive. Montfort lay at the abbey ;
and was, at first, re-assured by the appearance of
the banners, which Edward had taken from his son,
and which he caused to be carried in front of his
army ; but, informed of the reality, he lost the guilty
confidence which till then animated him, and ex-
claimed, " May God receive onr souls ; our bodies'
are in the hands of our enemies !" He placed the cap-
tive Henry in front of his own line ; in armour, re-
sembling his own : thus creating a peril to his royal
person, which, but for the promptitude and efficient
valour of the prince, would have proved fatal. The
battle was fought in a contracted field ; no quarter
was given. Leicester, with a- surviving son and a
few desperate followers, fought bravely on foot ; but
a long summer's evening closed upon his defeat, and
the slaughter of three thousand persons, among,
whom he was numbered. The little remnant of his
forces fled towards the Avon ; but, the bridge being
destroyed by their enemies, they were cut off to a
man. — Evesham, however, suffered little by the civil
contests which agitated the neighbourhood ; the
first blow was given to its prosperity, by the disso-
lution of its opulent religious establishment. This
event took place under rather unusual circumstances.
Clement Lychfield had expended considerable sums
in adorning and repairing the edifice, and resolved
to resist its surrender for profane uses ; but, by the
machinations of Thomas Cromwell, he was oVer-
persuaded to resign his staff into the hands of a
young monk, named Hawford, or Ballard, \vhosoon
railed in the commissioners, and was rewarded with
a considerable pension, and the deanery of Wor-
cester, whilst Lychfield himself lingered out the re-
mainder of his existence in obscurity. — Leland, who
wrote soon after this occurrence, observes, that
" in the towne is no hospitall, or other famous
foundation, but the late abbey," and " two parish
churches, whither the people of the towne resort ;"
and that even the profit of these, " savinge the
vicarage of one church, was appropriated to the
abbey." On the 26th of May, 1644, Evesham was
taken by Massey, at the head of the Parliamentarian
army, with the loss of only twenty men killed, and
a few wounded ; at which time its small garrison, of
only three hundred men, was commanded by Colonel
descent taught him to aspire; and that his conduct, which wat
attempted to be covered with opprobrium, deserves tlie applause
and imitation of his successors. After a few years of dignified
retirement, at his seat of Dailsford, which his cultivated taste de-
lighted to embellish, he died, in the winter of 1818-19, in the
consoling consciousness of having well acted his part on the
stage of existence. . .
Leffge,
504
WORCESTERSHIRE.
Legge, ancestor of the present family of Dartmouth.
Clarenddn relates, that Charles hearing of the ready
reception of Waller, by the inhabitants of Eve-
sham, marched thither with all haste ; and, breaking
down the bridge, raised a contribution of 200/. with
a thousand pairs of shoes, for the use of his men.
— Of the abbey church we have this brief notice ;
that it was a magnificent building of more than
ordinary length ; that on its south side were clois-
ters, with a spacious and curious walk, which com-
municated with the church of St. Lawrence; and
that both the church and cloisters were of the most
superb Gothic workmanship, adorned with "no less
than one hundred and sixty-four pillars, and fifteen
altars, besides the high altar. The stately tower,
which still remains proudly aspiring over the humble
edifices around it, is that which is described as
founded by Clement Lychfield. This only ornament
of the town would have fallen amid the ruins of the
edifices, wb.ieh it was raised to embellish, had not
Ilawford, and the inhabitants, purchased it for their
own use. The most curious remain of the abbey is
the ancient gate- way, happily preserved in the wall
of a garden, planted on the very pavement of the
Abbey church. This is an elliptical arch, 17 feet
in height, divided by three sets of mouldings, into
two ranges of niches, filled with carved figures,
eight in each range. The outer row consists of
sitting figures, which appear to have been intended
to represent abbots or bishops ; but, as well as those
of the inner range, have all suffered decapitation
from the stupid bigotry of some puritanical re-
former : a circumstance the more to be regretted,
because figures which display more ease of atti-
tude, more flowing draperies, or more spirit in the
execution, are seldom seen. Near the abbey gar-
dens, and the majestic tower, are the venerable
ruins of the church of St. Lawrence, which,
judging from the remains, must have been a build-
ing of great beauty. Above all, its eastern win-
dow deserves admiration for its florid Gothic tra-
cery ; Clement Lychfield's chapel for its finished
elegance ; and some Gothic pillars which still rear
their heads, amid the rank weeds of desolation, for
their pointed arches, and richly clustered capitals. —
The parish church of Evesham has nothing to render
it interesting, but its antiquity. There are four con-
venticles, for as many sects of dissenters ; and, of
two free schools within the limits of the borough,
one in Bengeworth, the other in Evesham, the latter
claims Lychfield for its founder; an injunction to pray
for whose soul is still seen over the door of the
building, which is of wooden frame-work. The
bridge appears to have been partly rebuilt, since it
was broken down by the Royal army, in 1641; and
* This gentleman possessed a profound knowledge of the
ancient classical, oriental, and northern languages, and not only
assisted Dr. Hicks in his Septentrional grammar, but was him-
tc\( the author of several learned, though anonymous tracts.
II h antiquarian knowledge, and patient perseverance in re-
the town-hall, supported by arches, is a handsome
apartment, used for public meetings, as a sessions
house, and also as nn assembly-room. Much of
the trade of Evesham results from the cultivation
of extensive gardens, the produce of which is sent
as far as Bath, and even into Yorkshire. Other
sources of commerce are a manufacture of stock-
ings ;" smitheries for^the making of drills, &c. and
several mills ; by one of which oil is expressed. —
Evesham has had the honour of producing three
or four persons, who have distinguished themselves
on the theatre of life. Of these was Bernardi, noto-
rious for his implication in the plot to assassinate
William III. Hugh de Evesham, so called from this
his native town, was a physician of the 13th cen-
tury, promoted by Martin IV. to a cardinalship, and
said to have been poisoned in Italy. William Hop-
kins, born here, August 28, 1647, was prebendary
of Worcester.* John Watson, Bishop of Winches-
ter, in 1580, was promoted to that dignity for the
singular humility with which he declined it ; having
ottered 200/. to be excused. Elizabeth Elstob,
though not a native of Evesham, resided, and kept
a school there, during twenty years. She trans-
lated Alfred's, and other Saxon homilies, and was
patronized by the Duchess of Portland, and Queen
Caroline, who allowed her a small pension.
Fladbury, picturesquely situated on the Avon, is
noted for the residence there of the Perrots, and
for the strikingly beautiful exterior of the church
which contains monuments of the Throckmortons.
The small village of Hampton, situated at the
distance of a mile from Evesham, on a delightful
eminence, embosomed in oaks, commands an ex-
tensive view of the luxuriant vale, of which it forms
a principal feature.
The village of Iccomb is a part of Worcester-
shire, completely insulated by the neighbouring
county of Gloucester; and remarkable only for its
ancient church, in which is a curious tomb of an
armed knight, surrounded by seven other figures,
in religious habits.
Three villages which bear the appellation of Lit-
tleton, deserve notice for having communicated it
to the noble family who possess Hagley. North
Littleton, the property of Lord Northwic, has lately
undergone considerable improvements, by enclosures
and the construction of excellent roads.
Offenham, said to have received its name from
the residence there of King Offa, was formerly the
site of a monastery, of which some remains exist.
Here was the bridge broken down by the troops of
Prince Edward, to cut off the retreat of the fugi-
tive followers of Mohtfort.
Shipston-upon-Stour, situated 17 miles S. by W.
search, were very remarkable, as well as she laborious diligence,
with which he toiled through the barren fields of barbarian
literature. After having been twice married, he died in 1700,
leaving no iisue by either of his wives.
from
WORCESTERSHIRE.
from Warwick, ami, as its name imports, upon the
river Stour, though a market town, is included in
the parish of Tidmertoii, with which, and Alder-
tuastun, it occupies an extent, nine miles in length,
and two in breadth. Its ;ippe;irance is rather mean,
from the incommodious condition of the streets, the
lowness of (lie houses, and the comfortless materials
. of which they are composed : being1 chiefly stone
and thatch. A manufacture of shitggs was esta-
blished, and attempted to be continued, even after
his death, by a Mr. Harte, who realized the sum of
20,000/. ; but it was soon abandoned.
The parish of Tidmertoii, one of the many dis-
tricts of this county completely isolated by the sur-
rounding shires, is remarkable chiefly for the resi-
dence in its vicinity of a Mr. Snow, who raised
himself from a station of poverty and dependence,
to rank and fortune ; and, having honourably run the
career of life, left a valuable estate and elegant
mansion to his heirs.
DODDINGTREE.] — The hundred of Doddingtree,
composed, like that of Blackenhurst, of two dis-
tricts, consists, in its upper division, of the parishes
of Acton Beaucbamp, Alfrick, Areley Regis and
Dunley, Bockleton, CJifton-upon-Teme, Cothe-
ridge, Eastham, Edwin Lock, Hanley Child, Han-
ley William and Orlton, Hillhampton, Great and
Little Kyre, Lulsley, Martley, Sapy Pitchard,
Staudford, Suckley, Sutton, Sturmay, and Ten-
bury ; and, in its lower division, of Abberlev, Alton-
in-Rock, Asley, Bayton, Bewdley, Addenham,
Upper and Lower Liudon, Manible, Ridmarley
Adam and Oliver, Rock, and Sued.
The village of Abberley is most remarkable for
its hills, which may be seen from a great distance,
covered with fern and furz.8 ; and, in some places
with thriving plantations. On the neighbouring
hill of Woodbury, are traces of an ancient en-
trenchment ; consisting chiefly of one line of forti-
fication, which enclosed an area of twenty seven
acres. This fortress was occupied by Owen Glendvvr,
in 1405, when he was pursued by Henry IV. after
his attauk and pillage of Worcester. Abberley
Lodge, the seat of Colonel Bromley, has been
adorned by him with some fine productions of the
Italian school, and otherwise adapted as an agree-
able summer residence, for which itscool and elevated
site renders it peculiarly pleasant. — Hundred House
Inn, a commodious building, opposite to Abberley,
was erectt'd by Lord Foley. — At the foot of Wood-
bury hill, is situated the elegant seat of this noble-
man, called Whitley Court, surrounded by a mag-
nificent park, and more immediately environed by
venerable and luxuriant woods. The purchaser of
this antique seat from the Russels, to whom it
belonged, was Thomas Foley, 'the progenitor of
the present, noble possessor ; and he, satisfied with
the features which it possessed of baronial magni-
ficence, contented himself with a few alterations
or additions ; but his descendants, rebuilt, and
in many parts, completely changed, its venerable
VOL. iv. — NO, 177.
aspect, substituting the costly yet elegant splendour
of modern custom, for the weighty magnificence of
former times : so that, now, it presents an incon-
gruous intermixture of two distinct, nay, remote
styles. An object well worthy of attention, is the
church, which actually forms a part of the mansion.
The present edifice was begun by the first peer of
the family, and completed by his widow ; and is,
perhaps, the most finished work of the kind to be
found in. the island, out of the metropolis. Its style
is generally simple, yet impressive. The ceiling,
painted by Verrio, is superb ; and the windows, of
stained glass, by Price, are scarcely less striking.
A family monument, erected on the south side of
the chancel, is a classical design, executed in the
highest taste. In, a word, the improvements,' re-
cently finished, the formation of a noble library,
and the original advantages of site, render Whitley
Court, one of the most admirable family seats in
this part of the country.
The church of Areley -on-the-Hill, situated on
an eminence, presents a fine prospect of the sur-
rounding country, a_s far as Worcester, or even
Malvern. The building, which is Gothic, and has
been recently repaired, in a corresponding taste,
contains some handsome monumental tablets, some
large escutcheons, and a curious Saxon door-way,
now wrought up with rnnsonry. Beneath the shade
of four elms, on the steep brOw of the hill, is the
tomb and fanciful monument of Sir Henry Conings-
by : the latter, a kind of wall, composed of twelve
stones of considerable magnitude, on which is the
following inscription :
Lithologema Qu;\re
Reponitur Sir Harry ;
Connected with which curious legend, is the almost
no less curious tale, that Sir Henry, having a
moated residence, in Herefordshire, was there amusing
his only child at a window, and chanced to let it
fall into the \valer ; which event disgusted him so
much with the world, that he retired to a farm-
house in this parish, here died, and here was, buried.
The village of Astley, situated on the Severn,
was noted, before the Dissolution, for its priory of
Benedictines ; and is now remarkable chiefly for a
hermitage, formed in the living rock, and recently
converted into an ale-house. The' church, built in
the Saxon style of architecture, contains some monu-
ments, and a few fragments of stained glass. Here
is the ancient seat, called Glasshampton.
The town of Bewdley, seated on the Severn, in
the ceptre of a populous manufacturing district, 14
miles N. by W. from Worcester, was, in the reign of
Edward I. a manor of the Beauchamps ; and re-
ceived from Edward IV. its charter of incorpora-
tion. Leland's description of the town, and his
opinion of its origin, possess some beauties, and
great exactness. — " The towne selfe of Beaudley .is
sett on the syde of a hill ; soe comely, a man cannot
wish to see a towiie better. It riseth from Severne
6 H bank*
506
WORCESTERSHIRE,
banke by east, upon the hill, by west ; soe that a
man standing on the hill tram pontem by east, may
dUcerne almost every house in the towne, and at
the risinge of the sunne from the east, the whole
towne glittereth (being all of a new building) as it
were of gould. By the distance of the parish church
(at Ribbesford) I gather that Beaudley is a very
new towne, and that of ould time there was but
some poore hamlett, and that upon the building of
a bridge there upon Severne, and resort of people
unto it, and commodity of the pleasant site, men
began to inhabit there ; anil because the plott of it
seemed fayre to the lookers, it hath a French name,
Beaudley." The figure of the town is that of the
letter Y : the foot extending to the river ; one of
the horns, towards Ribbesford ; the other, into the
forest. The bridge, viewed from the loaded wharfs,
appears a handsome modern structure, possessing a
lightness of feature, superior even to that of the
bridge at Worcester. The church, situated at the
junction of the three principal streets, is accounted
a chapel of ease to the mother church of Ribbesford ;
and was rebuilt in its present neat, yet embellished,
style, about 1748. Here are also appropriate places
of public worship for the numerous dissenters ;
several institutions for carrying on the useful work
of education, mostly supported by voluntary con-
tribution ; and a number of alms-houses for the poor
and aged. The town-hall is a handsome modern
building of stone, with three arches in front, six
square pilasters, and a pediment, surmounted by
the Littelton arms ; and a double row of arcades.
The trade of Bewdley is considerable, and the inha-
bitants boast, with reason, that their trows and
their crews are the best on the river. Among the
sources of this profitable commerce, are numerous
tan-yards ; manufactures of a kind of cap, much
worn before the introduction of felt hats ; comb-
making, and other works in horn ; and a manufac-
ture of flannel : while the town is a sort of mart,
for the wholesale grocery trade. The charter of
incorporation of Bewdley has been subject to some
extraordinary changes : the original deed, renewed
by James I. was surrendered, to Charles II. and
replaced by another from his successor, which last,
on the accession of Anne, was declared illegal,
and became the cause of a contention, which pro-
duced a long and expensive law-suit, ended by the
confirmation of the original charter. By virtue of
this, the corporation of Bewdley consists of a bailiff,
a recorder, a high steward, and twelve capital bur-
gesses, who depute one member to parliament : the
bailiff being the returning officer. JLord Lyttelton
is lord of the manor, high steward, and recorder.
A few years since, Dr. James Johnstone, of Wor-
cester, made an important discovery, in this neigh-
bourhood, of a mineral spring, whose qualities, after
an attentive analysis, he declared to resemble those
of the Harrowgate and Moflfat waters. — Celebrated
natives of this place were John Tombes, born in
1612, a subtle disputant, and a learned man, but a
changeling sectary ; and Richard Willis, who was
the son of a capper, and became remarkable for his
extemporaneous preaching ; was made chaplain to
King William ; and promoted to the see of Win-
chester, in 1714. — Near a pleasant'hamlet on the
side of the river opposite to Bewdley, is Spring
Grove, a large white building surrounded by a park,
the seat of the late S. Skey, Esq. to whom the
country is indebted for the introduction of a breed
of mules, both handsome and useful. — On a bill,
half a mile from Bewdley, and on the eastern bank
of the Severn, is the elegant villa of Mr. Moseley,
called Winterdyne. This agreeable retreat, plain
in its appearance, yet commodious, is seated on a
high and romantic cliff, embowered in deep, tufted
shades, and surrounded by ornamented walks, which
are diversified with Gothic turrets, seats, and her-
mitages. Advancing on the river, Blackstone rocks
meet the eye ; a bold range of dusky cliffs feathered
to the top, and made romantic by the formation, in
it, of a cell or hermitage, heretofore the abode of
some holy man, now a repository for the potatoes,
cheese, and farming implements of a neighbouring
agriculturist.
The small village of Bockleton, situated on the
borders of Herefordshire, has a church, built of
stone, in the chancel of which is a mouldering tomb,
adorned with the effigies of a knight and his lady ;
indicated by an imperfect inscription to be those of
Richard Barnaby, and his wife Maria, who died
about 1574.
The romantic village of Clifton, situated on a
hanging cliff of the Teme, was constituted a borough
by Ed ward III. and privileged with a weekly market :
distinctions which it has long since lost. Near it, is
Ham Castle, in ruins : a possession of the Win-
ningtons, which was almost destroyed by the re-
publican forces in 1646.
At Eastham is the seat of Rev. C. Whitehurst,
distinguished by the wild features of the bridge, by
which it is approached over the rapid Teme ; by the
deep shade of its woods, and by its own neat ap-
pearance. The church is a Gothic structure, appa-
rently raised on the site of a more ancient edifice in
the Saxon style : as highly ornamented Saxon arches
are distinguishable in many parts, particularly about
the entrance, and at the union of the nave with the
chancel. Henley-on-the-Hill, a modern villa, in
this parish, is the seat of Col. Newport.
The neighbouring villages of Knightwick and
Martley, composing part of a highly cultivated, pic-
turesque, and fruitful country, are inhabited by many
respectable families, attracted thither by the beauty
of the scenery, and the salubrity of the air. The
former is situated on the post road to Bromyard,
and both on the border of the county.
Lyndridge, which adjoins Eastham, on the road
to Worcester, appears to great advantage, at a dis-
tance ; the bold elevation from which it rises being
covered with trees, amid which appears its spire, of
uncurtain height. The church contains many monu-
ments ;
WORCESTERSHIRE.
507
ments ; and near it, is a good modern mansion, now
inhabited by the Rev. Dr. Evans. In this parish,
is Lowe, anciently the residence of a family, now
extinct, who thence derived their name. Arthur
Lowe de Lowe, the last of his race, who died in
17-24, left this item in his testament : — " I will that
my house where 1 now live, being an auncient seat
of my auncestors, be from tyme to tyme kept up
and repaired, by whoever shall be seised of my
estate at the Lowe, as need shall require ; but by
no means to be pulled down or demolished." — The
small hamlet of Vardiston, at the distance of half
a mile, contains the mansion of Sir William Smith,
Bart, a brick edifice, of moderate size, but com-
modious, and agreeably situated.
In the windows of Mamble church, were formerly
many armorial escutcheons, which have now disap-
peared. There yet remain, however, some ancient
tombs of the Blounts ; on one of which, is extended
the skeleton of a human figure ; some rich armorial
bearings are pourtrayed ; and genealogical notices,
inscribed with the name of the defunct ; Thomas
Blount, who died in the reign of Elizabeth. Fod-
dington, the ancient, but now ruinous seat of this
family, formerly moated, and approached by four
drawbridges, was burned by the Republican forces,
because the Blounts refused to make arms for them
at their forge. In removing the ruins, in 1807, a
discovery was made, beneath the oldest part of the
house, of an ancient focus of thin bricks ; and, five
feet deeper, of a pavement of thin bricks. At the
same time a vast number of connected tubes, two
feet long, and four inches in diameter, forming an
aqueduct from a spring at a great distance, were
brought to light : the whole serving to indicate this
spot as a Roman fort of some standing. A further
discovery was made in a neighbouring field in the
contents of a hillock, on which stood an oak, quite
decayed with age. In levelling this, the workmen
found a complete brick-kiln, consisting, by compu-
tation, of ten thousand bricks, the greater part of
which were well burned; but the rest, only^half
prepared for use. These materials for building,
evidently fabricated by a people removed from bar-
barism, Mr. Milner, who describes them, supposes
to have been made by the Romanized Britons imme-
diately after the departure of their masters, the
Romans ; and before the incursions of the Picts and
Scots, and the arrival of the Saxons ; from which
precise period, little leisure was afforded to them
to carry on projects of building, until they were
driven into tlie fastnesses of Wales : and the Saxons
could as little avail themselves of the readiness of
* Lord Herbert, tliuu^h lie refrained from publishing liis
memoirs, was unwilling that they should be lost to posterity ;
and took care to multiply the copies. By the one, here men-
tioned, it appears that he was born in Ii83, at Eyton, in Shrop-
shire ; that he was married, at fifteen, to Mary, daughter and
co-heir of Sir William Herbert, she being twenty-five ; that,
being carried by his romantic disposition for travelling, to the
siege ef St. Juliers, he there distinguished himself; and after-
these articles : being continually harassed by the
natives, during the first century after their arrival,
at the end of which, the earth would have become
sufficiently deep to afford nourishment and growth
to the acorn, from which sprang the before-men-
tioned tree. In this parish are extensive coal-
works.
On the western bank of the Severn, stand the
church and hall of Ribbesford, which the author of
the " Monasticon," who calls it Ribetford, says,
was a town, whose villeins were bound, by accus-
tomed usage, to make fishing-wears, and do other
works, for the monastery. The church is low, and
of mixed architecture, Saxon and Gothic ; and, over
the door- way is a Saxon bas-relief, of the figure,
say the inhabitants, of a salmon ; but, evidently, of
some pedestrial animal, from its having two fore
feet. Within this edifice are many monumental
tablets, and armorial bearings, for the most part,
in a good state of preservation. The hall, which
with the manor, was the property of the Herberts,
appears, from its remaining towers and moat, to
have been intended as a domestic fortress ; but late
alterations and additions have considerably changed
its appearance of antiquity. Here was found one
copy of the M.S. life of Lord Herbert, of Cherbury,
the descendants of whose youngest brother long
resided here.* In the glebe lands of this parish
may be seen the curious natural phenomenon of a
yew-tree growing in the body of an oak : the former,
two feet in diameter, and so completely encased by
the latter, that, had it not been ascertained by in-
cision, the fact would have been perceptible, only
by examination of their heads, where the branches
intertwine in the most friendly manner. Not far
hence, is a spot where is said to have stood the
famous oak of St. Augustine, concerning which, so
much controversy has been excited.
The church of the village of Rock, seated on a
commanding eminence, is a Saxon erection ; but
contains no more than a few monuments of the. Co-
ningsbyes. In the vicinity, is the handsome seat of
Mr. Wigley, called Shakenhurst ; and in the neigh-
bouring woods is a sort of natural curiosity : a tree
of the sorbus kind, called by the inhabitants, "Quicken
Pear," more than three centuries old ; and even de-
scribed as a curiosity, in the Philosophical Trans-
actions of 1678.
The church of Stanford, situated in the park
of that name, is an erection of the year 1768, of
beautiful stone, found on the spot. The style is
Gothic, with a tower of some elevation, and very
elegant workmanship. It contains one monument,
wards accepted a commission from the Duke of Savoy ; and,
that, being" sent ambassador to the French court, he there
shewed himself as accomplished in civil polity, as in military
virtue. On his return, he was raised to the peerage by King
James. His work on Truth has been translated into many
languages, and has received the tribute of admiration from
many learned men. He died in 1678, and was buried at St.
Giles-in-the-Fields, London.
in
008
\VORCESTERSHrHE.
in variegated marbles, of the Right Hon. Thomas
Winnington, who died in 1746 ; but in the old
church were many. The elegant seat of Sir Thomas
Wiivnington, called Stanford Court, is a large and
commodious edifice, surrounded by groves of oak,
and a demesne highly ornamented with a tasteful dis-
tribution of wood and water. In this park, is a
Curious hermitage, generally called Stone-house,
hewn out of the living rock, into several apartments ;
and accounted, " in days more clerical," of consi-
derable sanctity.
The church of Stockton, evidently very ancient,
appears, by its round arches, to be of Saxon origin,
yet, it is not noticed in Domesday ; having been, pro-
•bably, then in ruins. This, with some surrounding
houses, has an interesting appearance on an emi-
nence which seems to have been modelled into an
intrenchment.
Tenbury, which lies 21 miles N. W. by W. from
Worcester, on the borders of this county and Shrop-
shire, is subject, from its low position, to frequent
floods, from the rapid Teme, by which it is watered,
ns well as by the Kyre. These have much injured
the church, of which the tower and chancel alone
remain, the wreck of a noble Gothic edifice, of very-
early erection. The occurrence of this kind the
most injurious in its consequences happened in 17701,
\vhen the side and middle aisles were thrown down ;
the windows and organ, swept away ; and the monu-
ments, so injured that many were removed : two
alone, remain worthy of notice ; one, of a child in
armour, cross-legged, like those of knights, cru-
saders ; and that of " another knight, cross-legged,
under the south wall of the church ; on his shield,
a chevron between three stars, pierced." Both the
•bridge over the Kyre, and that over the Teme, are
handsome ; particularly the latter, which is com-
posed of six arches of stone. The market-place,
•which is ancient, is called the corn-market ; and a
cross has been recently erected, which adds both to
the beauty, and the commodiousness of the place.
The manor, which belonged, at the Conquest, to
the Fitz-Richards, afterwards called Say, is now
the property of the Cornwalls. The trade of Ten-
bury arises chiefly from the large quantities of hops
and cyder which are produced in the neighbourhood.
— In Sutton Park, the ancient seat of the Arundels,
is a chapel of ease to the mother church, remarkable
only for some monuments of that ancient family. —
The park of Kyre Wyre, situated near it, is the
elegant seat of thePytts family, adorned with many
stately oaks, and watered, not only by the rapid
stream, Kyre, but by a lake of twenty-five acres,
veil stocked with delicious fish.
The house of Tickenhall, which is situated at a
ehort distance from Bewdley, was either founded
or rebuilt by Henry VII. for Prince Arthur ; but
was so miit-li injured in the operations of civil war-
farc-i during the 17th century, that the greater part
of it was re-edified about one hundred years ago.
Its elevated site commands a most extensive view
on all sides. The north front of ancient wood-work
rises from the brow of the hill. In the park, which
is extremely romantic and picturesque, many of
the oaks remain ; which formerly rendered it famous,
and the whole demesne is susceptible, by its varied
surface and great fertility, of the highest degree of
improvement. At present, it is possessed by the
Ingrams, under a lease from the Winningtons, to
whom it was granted by the crawn, after being long
occupied as a mansion for the council of the Welsh
marches.
HALFSHIRE HUNDRED.] — The hundred of Half-
shire, subdivided into two districts, called upper
and lower, comprises the following parishes: —
Bromsgrove, Cofton Hacket, part of Crowl, Dod-
derhill, Doverdale, Droitwich, Elmbridge, Feck-
enharn, Hadsor, Hampton Level, Kington, Kings-
norton, Norlhfiekl, Sal warp, Tardehig, and Upton
Warin, in the upper division ; and, in the lower,
Bell-broughton, Chaddesley Corbet, Churchhill,
Cradley, Dudley, Elmley Lovet, Frankley, Hagley,
Kidderminster Borough and Foreign, Kingstord,
Ludley, Upper Mitton, Pedmore, Rushock, Stour,
Old Swindford, Stourbridge, and Warley Wigorn.
The village of Alvechurch, which was once of con-
siderable importance, retains the names of many
streets, which have little else to distinguish them.
The church, which is Saxon, with a moViern tower,
contains a few monuments, un worthy of particular
notice.
The church of Belbrougliton retains some relics
of glass, stained with armorial bearings ; and is
made interesting by a simple, yet elegant, monu-
mental tablet, to the memory of the Rev. Dr. Clarke,
a late rector.
\
" When sorrow weeps o'er virtue's sncred dusf,
Our tears bccome.us, and our grief is just ;
Such were the tears she shed, who, grateful, pays
This last sad tribute of her love and praise ;
Who mourns the husband and the friend combined,
Where gentle pity met a manly mind ;
Mourns, but not murmurs ; sighs, but not despairs ;
Feels as a wife, but as a Christian bears."
The village of Beoly was once distinguished by
a large and splendid castle, the ruins of which can
now scarcely be traced. It is now remarkable lor
nothing but the numerous and elegant sepulchral
erections, in its church, in honour of (be Sheidons.
The abbey of Bordesley, which was founded in
1138, by the Empress Mathilda, forreligieiix of the
order of Cistercians, was so extensive as to occupy
a site of eight acres. Of this immense pile, the only
remain is St. Stephen's chapel, stjll entire, though
greatly altered by repairs. This house is remark-
able for its having been the first, at the Dissolution,
which was exchanged away to a subject, on the
well-known advantageous terms, by which Henry
salved that unpopular measure in the eyes of his
subjects.
The market town of Bromsgrove, 12 miles N. E
by
WORCESTERSHIRE.
509
•by N. from Worcester, was formerly called Bremes-
grave ; and enjoyed the privilege, tempore Edv. /.
of sending two members to parliament. This immu-
nity is discontinued. The town differs little from
the description given of it by Lcland : — " all, in a
manner oi' one street, very large, standing in a
plain ground. The town standeth somelhinge by
clothinge. The heart of the towne is meetly well-
paved." It is still a large but dirty place, full of
shops, and manufactories of needles, nails, sheeting,
and other coarse linen. In the principal street are
some good houses, while many of the more ancient
buildings are of wood, strangely decorated wilh
black stripes, and other unusual ornaments. The
church, especially as to its tower and lofty spire, is
a pleasing edifice, highly embellished in the Gothic
style, witli statues and mouldings ; some considerable
relics of stained glass in the windows ; several
handsome monuments of the Talbots, and one of
Counsellor Lyttleton, of the Hagley family. The
local government is vested in a court baron, which
sits once in three weeks, for the recovery of small
debts, &c. In the vicinity, are several remarkable
echoes ; particularly, at the east and west corners
of the church ; another curiosity is a chalybeate
spring, at Barnet Green, of some efficacy ; and a
third, is a petrifying well, at Holly wood. — The
Lickey is a range of lofty eminences, northward
from the town, recently in a state of nature, but now
cultivated with some effect. It has been supposed
that this is one of the highest levels in England ;
a streamlet, which rises here, dividing itself into two
brooks, which flows respectively into the Trent
and the Severn. It is a circumstance well worthy
to excite pleasurable sensations, that, in the par-
tition of lands on this waste, the rights of the poor
have been respected ; and many individuals, of this
useful class, live comfortably in their neat cottages,
and are supplied with half a subsistence from their
well cultivated gardens. —At Dodford, in this parish,
a small priory of Prxmonstratensian canons was
founded, tempore Joh, the remains of which may be
seen in the walls of a farm-house. Among other
ancient buildings arc Barndesley Hall, seated on
the skirt of the Lickey ; and Havvkesley House,
which was garrisoned by the republicans, and taken
by the royalists, in 1645. Chadwiuk Manor is the
residence of Mr. Carpenter ; and Cofton Hall, of
Robert Biddulph, Esq. Of Grafton Hall, the ancient
seat of the Talbots, a mile from Bromsgrove, no
more remains, than the porch and part of the hall ;
the rest having been destroyed by fire in 1710 ; but
these indicate its ancient importance.
The village of Crowle, which lies six miles south-
eastward from Droitwich, is but little frequented,
from its seclusion. It formerly belonged to the con-
vent of Worcester, and was given by the commu-
nity to one of their priors, who had resigned
At the distance of GJ miles N. E. by N. from
Worcester, on the banks of the Salwarp, is situated
the small, straggling, and dirty-looking town of
VOL. iv. — NO. 177.
Droitwich, supposed to have been the Satina of ilia
Romans, and to have acquired the affix ilnul to its
Saxon name trie, from a royal grant, which author-
ized the keeping open of the pits : droit being syno-
nymous with " legal." It was undoubtedly a popu-
lous town in the days of the Conqueror, and many
succeeding monarch* had great property here ; but
John alienated it to the burgesses for an annual rent
of lot)/, annexing many immunities to the purchase.
In after times, it was distinguished by the loyal dis-
position of its inhabitants; so decidedly evinced in
the contest of the Parliament with Charles I. that
the latter addressed to them a letter of thanks, which
they long preserved, with a degree of pride, com-
mensurate with their zealous loyalty. he-land's
description of Droitwich is apposite enough to its
present condition : — " the towne itself is somewhat
foule and dirte (when any raine falleth,) with much
carriage through the streets, being over ill-paved,
or not paved." The church is very old, apparently
far advanced into the stages of decay ; another is
completely ruinous ; and a third is situated on the
north side of the river, on a cliff which overlooks the
town. In a division of Droitwich, called Duder-
liill, was once an hospital for a master and some
poor brethren ; and a house of Augustine friars,
founded by the Beauchamps. The corporation, as
modelled by charter of James 1., consists of two
bailiffs, an unlimited number of burgesses, a recor-
der, a town clerk, &c. ; who are invested with
authority to enact and enforce such bye-laws for
their own government, as shall not interfere with
the law of the land. — The salt-works of Droitwich,
which were begun as early as 816, claim our next
attention. From the epoch of the grant of King
John, these lucrative sources of wealth were en-
grossed by a few grantees, till the year 1689, when
a bold speculator claimed a right to sink pits on
his own ground ; which right, though contested by
the corporation, he established. By the acknow-
ledgement of this immunity the pits were so multi-
plied by individuals, that the old works were ruined ;
and a greater quantity of brine was procured than
could be consumed in the manufacture. The great
sub stratum of the vicinity of Droitwich seems to
be a salt rock, which lies at 150 or 200 feet below
the surface ; above this, is a brine river, 22 inches
in depth ; next in order, is a stratum of gypsum, or
alabaster, 130 feet thick ; and from this proceed th«
salt springs, at the depth of little more than 100 feet
below the surface. On attentive analysis, this brine
has been found to contain several substances, besides
the culinary salt, or muriate of soda ; as, sulphate
of soda, or Glauber salts ; sulphate, of magnesia,
called Epsom salts ; and muriate of lime. Though
England possesses many salt springs, there are none
of equal strength with those of Droitwich ; these
latter containing, in solution, about one-fourth part
of salt ; while the others, even when most strongly
impregnated, do not yield in general more than one-
ninth.— The only subject for biography under this
6 N h«ad,
510
WORCESTERSHIRE.
head, is Richard de Burford, who was born here,
studied at Oxford, Paris, and Boulogne, became
chancellor to Thomas a Becket and the university
of Oxford, and was at length elevated to the epis-
copal chair of Chichester. He was distinguished for
extraordinary learning and integrity ; for his zealous
attention to his duties, and his unspotted life; and
was canonizied, after his death, by Pope Urban III.
in 1362. — Hinglip, or Hendlip Hall, which stands
near thu Worcester road, at half a mile from Droit-
wich, is not less interesting, for its exterior archi-
tectural style — that of the reign of Henry VIII. ;
and for the many romantic places of retreat and
concealment to be found within its walls, than for
the memory of its quondam inhabitants ; among
whom was the well-known, active character, John
Abingdon, as distinguished by his unceasing exer-
tions to prop the declining estate of the Catholic
church in England, as by his ardour in antiquarian
research, connected with the history of Worcester-
shire.* In this house, there is scarcely an apart-
ment which has not a secret entrance, back-stair-
cases in the walls, places of retreat in the chimney,
and trap-doors. It is, however, at present, in a
ruinous condition; many of the windows are blocked
up ; and the gardens lie waste ; but the whole affords
a good idea of ancient manners ; and, with the
small adjoining church, is well deserving of atten-
tive examination. — At the distance of two miles,
westward from Droitwich, is situated Westwood
House, the seat of Sir Herbert Packington, Bart,
•surrounded by an extensive park, Jaid»out, in rays
of planting, from a centre, which is occupied by
the house. This building is of hrick ; forming a
square with two wings ; approached in front by a
turretted gateway, through a large court. It con-
tains many ancient family paintings ; among which
is a curious one of Sir John Perrot, reported to
have been a natural son of Henry VIII. During
the civil dissensions > of this kingdom, Westwood
House frequently afforded an asylum to learned
men ; as Dr. Hammond, and the Bishops Morley
and Fell ; the last of whom is said to have assisted
the good Lady Packington in the composition of
" The Whole Duty of Man." Here was formerly
a small priory for six nuns of the Benedictine order,
thd possessions of which were granted, at the Disso-
lution, to John Packington, Esq.
Dudley, which is situated 26 miles N. N. E. from
Worcester, and made insular by Staffordshire, is
supposed to have received its name from Dodo, a
Saxon chief, who raised the first fortress on its site.
On the spot, occupied by this earliest building, now
* He is described by Wood, in his Athena:, as the son of
John H. of Brockhampto.il, in Herefordshire, and said to have
been born in 1560. He was educated at Oxford, Paris, and
Rheims ; and, at an early age, suffered six years' imprisonment
for a laudable attempt to release the unfortunate Mary Queen
of Scots. He was an accessary, in the succeeding reign, to
the gun powder plot, and was condemned to a perpetual resi-
*
stand the ruins of Hie castle, the view of which, at a
distance, is one of the most striking, as the prospect
from it is one of the most extensive and diversified,
in the county. Begun in the 8th century, the com-
bined attacks of time and war-eng-iues have not
effected its entire dilapidation : the keep Is still en-
tire, in which is the chapel, with two windows, rich
in tracery. In 1641, it was well defended by Lieut. -
Colonel Beaumont, against the republicans, during
three weeks, at the end of which he was relieved by
the Royal forces. At the Restoration it was dis-
mantled, and since those days, it has been the scene
of many a tale of terror ; some of which were, indeed,
not wholly groundless ; as it was, during the last
century, the retreat of a gang of coiners, who were
dislodged by a fire in 1750. — Dudley is also remark-
able for its monastery, founded in 1161, by Gervase
Paganel, and endowed by Pope Lucius with an
extraordinary privilege : that while the rest of the
kingdom lay under an interdict, divine service might
here be celebrated with closed doors, in a low voice,
and without sound of bell. The church of this in-
stitution long withstood the ravages of time and
puritanical destroyers ; and its rich Gothic eastern
window, with some beautiful mouldings, a splendid
niche and canopy, and several sepulchral erections,
give some idea of what it must have been, protected
and revered by those noble beings, in whose bosoms
it excited the pure flame of devotion : but a few
years since it was removed, and another begun to be
erected on its site. The other remains of this re-
ligious house are let, in different tenements, to
manufacturers of thread, glass-grinders, and other
artisans. — In the two other churches which belojjg1
to Dudley, are some relics of stained glass, several
interesting monuments of armed knights, much muti-
lated by the barbarian hands of bigotry and igno-
rance; and numerous escutcheons. Of the three
charity schools, one, founded for fifty boys, in 1634,
had the pious Baxter for its first master. Besides
these, there are no less than seven Sunda-y schools.
The staple trade of Dudley is its manufacture of
nails, in which the iron is furnished .by persons called
nail-factors, and wrought by the workmen in their
own cottages.
The village of Feckenham has a neat church,
which contains several curious monuments ; a well-
endowed institution for. the education of children of
both sexes, and an extensive manufactory of needles.
But it is more particularly distinguished by its hav-
ing given birth to John de Peckenham, a man emi-
nent in his day for his steady attachment to the
Catholic church, the piety of his heart, and the force
dence within the limit:; of Worcestershire. Here he was active
in secreting such of his persuasion as had rendered themselves
obnoxious to the government ; for which purpose the many
retreats, mentioned above, furnished great facilities. Among
others he sheltered the conspirators Owen, Chambers, Garnet,
and Hill, who were however all taken in his house. Hi* wife
was the .daughter of Loid Morley.
of
WORC ESTERSHIRE.
511
of his mind.* His parents, whose name was TIow-
nian, were poor people residing in a cottage on the
borders of the forest.
Frankley, a small chnpelry northward from Broms-
grove, gives the title of baron to the Littletons ; and
deserves notice for its chapel, which appears to belong
to an age as remote at that of John, or Henry III.
Much of the antique character of this was, however,
destroyed, about 1751, by some alterations and addi-
tions, which were found necessary to its preserva-
tion ; and, at the same time many, the greater part,
of the tombs and other sepulchral monuments were
removed, or demolished.
The name of Hagley excites, in the cultivated
mind, the conjoined recollections of eminent men,
whose never dying productions have attached to it
an eternal celebrity. The present house, which is
described as a well designed mean, between the vast
piles raised for magnificence, and the small build-
ings, in which convenience alone is considered, is a
plain, yet elegant edifice, situated on an undulating
lawn, enclosed on three sides by gentle eminences,
and diversified by well arranged groups of stately
timber. In form it is a quadrangular oblong, ap-
proached on the south or principal front, by a double
range of steps. — In a review of the interior, the
apartments will be found to be lofty and capacious,
•well lighted, and decorated with many exquisite and
interesting productions of art. The hall, thirty feet
-square, has a chimney-piece of white marble, sup-
ported by two figures of Hercules, well executed ;
a relief, by Vassali ; some casts, several antique
busts, and those of Rubens and Vandyck, by Rys-
brack ; with two curiously carved mahogany tables.
The library, embellished with scrolls of stucco, con-
tains four busts, of Shakspeare, Milton, Spencer,
and Dryden : a bequest of Pope, whose portrait is
also seen here ; with those of Gilbert West, and
the poet Thomson. The winter dining-room con-
tains a Madonna, by Rubens, and many family
pieces ; among which are distinguished the portraits
of Judge Lyttelton, Lord Keeper Lyttclton, the
iirst Lord Lyttelton and his lady, Lucy, the subject
of his well-known monody. In the gallery, which
is eighty-five feet long, and twenty-two broad, the
works of art are too numerous to be here particu-
larized. It is divided by rows of double Corinthian
pillars ; the carved-work of the chimney-piece, the
mirror and picture frames, the tables and the giran-
doles, is exquisite; and the paintings, which are very
numerous, consist of the works of Vandyck, Lely, and
* During the reign of Mary, he obtained the preferment
(Hie to his excellent qualifications ; being made Dean of St.
Phil's, and Abbot of Westminster ; but, on the accession of
her successor, he refused the promotion which was offered as
the reward of his apostasy. — Elizabeth, " struck with his cha-
racter for learning, piety, charity, humility, and other virtue,''
offered him the archbishopric of Canterbury, which, he con-
scientiously rejected. After— shall we say for— this, he was
committed to the Tower, and subjected to controversial dis-
putes, with men, who, possessing less courage, or less integrity
Zucchero, being chiefly portraits of persons distin-
guished in the 17th century: as Oliver Cromwell,
and his friend Sir Peter Temple ; James, Duke of
Moninouth ; the Countess of Exeter and Suffolk ;
and many others. The drawing-room, hung with
the finest Gobelines tapestry, has an exquisitely
painted ceiling, by Cipriani, which represents Flora,
scattering flowers ; and the four seasons. The
chandeliers on the marble chimney-piece are parti-
cularly splendid : being of silver, in the form of oak
branches. Among the portraits, is one of Lord
Chesterfield. In the saloon, which is thirty-six feet
by thirty, is an extremely beautiful chimney-piece,
of white and Sienna marble, exhibiting a group of
Cupids. Among the pictures are Jacob and his
family, by Bassano ; Venus reconciled to Psyche,
a fine Titian ; the marriage of Neptune and Cybele ;
and portraits of Queen Henrietta Maria, exqui-
sitely beautiful, Charles I. and his family, the Coun-
tess of Portland, and Hay, Earl of Carlisle. The
little cabinet contains striking pieces ;. among which
we must notice, a Dead Saviour, by Vandyck, in a.
style of excellence, seldom, perhaps never, sur-
passed. In the gentleman's dressing-room, is 'a •
piece called the Misers, by Quintyn Matsys, valued
at SOOO/. ; Lot and his daughters, by Giordano.;
and a Holy Family, by Poussin. In the blue bed-
room are several portraits ; and one of Louise de
Queronaille, Duchess of Portsmouth and mistress
to Charles II. In the remaining rooms are some
fine pieces by Jansen and Le Brim ; and a Venus
lamenting over a dead Adonis ; with family portraits,
too numerous to be here mentioned particularly. —
At a short distance from the house, -stands the church,
embosomed in trees, and marked with the venerable
features of antiquity. The edifice was repaired by
the first Lord Lyttleton, and enlarged by the addi-
tion of a chancel, which is decorated with a rich
window of stained glass. The ceiling of this part
also is covered with armorial bearings of the family
since the dedication of the church, in the reign of
Henry III.; and the whole interior presents the
sculptured memorials of many of its members. An.
urn, supported by a pedestal of white marble, bears
the profile, in relievo, of Lucy, the first Lady
Lyttleton, with an inscription : " Lucia .'" the well-
known English epitaph ; and a Latin one, of which
the following is a translation : — " Sacred to the
memory of Lucy Lyttleton, descended from the
ancient family of Fortescue ; who, gifted with the
most exquisite form, the sweetest disposition, and
than himself, had deserted their t'aitn at the nod of a despot.
But as he had conducted himself with moderation in the pre-
ceding reign, so he suffered with constancy in this ; and, not-
withstanding the tyrannical persecution to which he was sub-
jected, he found time to edite many valiuble works, among
which is an account of a conference, held with the Lady Jane
Grey. He was also distinguished by the operation of his
charitable zeal ; many monuments of which remain in this,
and other counties.
the
512
WORCESTERSHIRE.
the most ingenuous mind; and skilled in elegant
accomplishments even beyond her sex and age, was
the subject of the highest praise, without the slightest
tincture of pride ; and, having1 spent a chaste and
virtuous life, expired iinmaturfly in the twenty -ninth
year of her age, in parturition of her third child,
on the 19th of June, 1746, lamented, even by those
who knew her least. To the memory of a beloved
•wife, the fifth year of conjugal felicity not yet passed,
George Lyttleton has placed this monument of love
and esteem ; he also yet remains, but shall be in-
terred in the same sepulchre, trusting through our
Lord and Saviour, Jesus Christ, that all sorrows
•will be done away in eternity, and that he will rise
to enjoy with her, the delights of a better life." — A
plain stone near this, bears the following inscription :
— " This unadorned stone was placed here by the
particular desire, and express direction, of the Right
Hon. George, Lord Lyttleton, who died, Aug. 22,
1773, aged 64." — In this truly picturesque and
beautiful demesne are many objects, which, merely
to enumerate, would swell our description to a small
volume. Faithfully to pourtray the many classical
designs — the magnificent effect of some scenes, and
the minuter beaulies of others, is impossible; it
must suffice to observe, that the most cultivated
taste, the richest imagination, and all the resources
of wealth, have been employed in adorning a place,
the natural capabilities of which were strikingly ex-
traordinary. Among the artificial embellishments of
the scene, the most effective is a successful imitation
of a ruin, called the Tower, seated on an eminence,
embosomed on woods, half overgrown by brush-
wood, and apparently deserted. In a fine amphi-
theatre of woods, stands an Ionic rotunda, half shaded
by the scattered foliage of wide-spreading trees, re-
flected in the bosom of a deep and placid lake, and
dedicated to the shade of Pope, in whose honour,
an urn, erected on a distant spot, is also inscribed.
Among the numerous seats is one, denominated the
seat of contemplation, admirably adapted to the
indulgence of that habit of the mind; and, in the
number of the grottoes, two claim particular notice :
a hermitage composed of roots and moss, overhung
by high banks, lofty and darkly foliated trees, and
the Clent hills in all their wildness of irregularity ;
and a little watery cave, in which is a leaden statue
of the Medicean Venus. Taste has here erected two
tributes to poetic genus : an octagon seat, sacred to
the memory of Thomson ; and an urn, in honour of
Shenstone. It would be injustice to the architec-
tural beauties of the place to omit the temple of
Theseus, with its Grecian portico ; no less admirable
for its chasteness and elagance of execution, than
for the happy genius exercised in the choice of its
* The history of a peer of this family, who died through
snere sicklmessof imagination, is too well' known (or repetition.
It may remove wonder at such an extraordinary occurrence,
to observe, that, amidst all those flashes of merriment which
incessantly eminated from this young, gay, and dissipated
nobleman, his heart was wrung with everlasting care, and
; situation. Over the body of water, which completes
! the picture of this enchanting place, is thrown a
! Paliadiau bridge, which supports a portico of the
I Ionic order. To conclude the list, it is necessary
to notice a pillar, erected in honour of the late
Prince of Wales, which, from whatever side it be
viewed, ever presents, from its elevated site, and
peculiar beauty, the same majestic appearance. —
Everywhere a profusion of timber of various kinds,
numerous lawns and vistas, the wildness of a forest
or a desert, and the beauty of a garden, are here
distinguished and acknowledged. — In a word, the
whole is so preserved, that there is perhaps no dif-
ference between the present state of Hagley, and
that of its classic days.*
Hanbury Hall, built about 1710, by Mr. Vernon,
a barrister, is completely in the style of that period :
consisting of a centre and two wings, crowded with
an extravagant number of doors and windows. The
hall and staircase are adorned with mythological
paintings, by Kneller ; who has introduced Sache-
verell, carried away by devils. Among the pictures,
is a famous portrait of Charles XII. of Sweden,
drawn from the life, for Bishop llobinson. In the
church, which occupies a site so elevated us to be
approached by 180 steps, are some handsome monu-
ments of the Vernons, among which the builder of
the hall is represented reclining, in his robes, with
Justice and Law on his side.
Hartlebury Castle, the seat of the Bishops of
Worcester, situated in an extensive and pleasant
park, is built with brick ; and, with its Gothic
arched windows, and embattled roof, is not with-
out a certain air of grandeur. Until the reign of
Charles I. it was what its name indicates, literally
a castle ; but it was then taken by the Republican
forces, and sold for 3000/. After the Restoration,
its dignified possessor began to rebuild it in its pre-
sent style of magnificence ; in which undertaking
the Bishops Ilurd and Hough had a large share,
the former having furnished the library ; and the
latter, completed the greater part of the edifice.
The village, and its Gothic church, lie considerably
lower than the episcopal seat ; but require no de-
scription. At a short distance, however, is Waysley
Green, the seat of T. Baker, Esq. a large edifice in
the form of a cube ; enclosed by recently planted
grounds, which promise to render this one of the
most desirable habitations of the county.
The small village of Hawford, situated at the
junction of the rivers Salwarp and Severn, with the
Droitwich canal, is distinguished by the handsome
seat of Welsh, Esq. surrounded by a fertile
demesne, and thriving plantations.
Hewell Grange, the seat of the Earl of Plymouth,
tortured by superstitious alarms. The creaking of a floor, or
the mere gloom of an old house, has been known to deprive
him of his repose. Yet the reality of the preternatural ap-
pearance to his lordship is believed by some of his relatives ;
one of whom caused a piece to be painted, of which it forms
the subject.
situated
WORCESTERSHIRE.
513
situated in Tanlebig parish, long remained in a
dismantled state, but has been recently refurnish-
ed. It is environed by a pleasant park, diversified
with a profusion of wood, and an extensive piec
of water. In the churcb was interred Sir Thomas
Cookes, the founder of Worcester College, Oxford.
Kidderminster, situated 124 miles from London,
and 1-1 N. from Worcester, on both banks of the
river Stour, though low, is remarkable for the clean-
liness of its streets, and the almost consequent purity
of its air. Its name, sometimes written Chider-
ininster, has been variously derived ; but, with the
most plausibility, from Chid, a hill ; Dwr, water ;
and Minster, a church. Its history, since the Con-
quest, when it was crown land, is uninteresting ;
being nothing more than a list of the persons to
whom it has belonged, among whom was the poet
Waller. Leland says of it : — " the fayre and chiefe
parte of Kidderminster is on the left side of Stower,
standinge on an hilly piece of ground. There is a
pretty crosse, environed with six pillars about, and
arches of stone, with the seventh pillar in the middle
to bear up the fornix. It is the market-place. The
church is very fayre. This towne standethe most
by clothinge." This laconic description has been
rendered, by considerable additions and alterations,
rather inapplicable. The church, finely seated on
an eminence which overlooks the town and the canal,
is a handsome Gothic Structure, with windows of
tracery work ; and contains some highly interesting
monuments ; among which, beneath an ornamented
arch, is that of Edward Blount, Esq. and his two
wives, near another, on which reposes a Blount,
with his wife and children. Both the male figures
are in armour ; as is another of the family of Cook-
gey on the same side. In the church-yard is a tomb,
erected during the life-time of its occupant, an
inn-keeper, not long since dead, with this inscrip-
tion:
" To the memory of John Orion,
A man from Leicestershire,
And when he is dead lie must lie under here."
A Gothic chapel at the east end of. the sacred
edifice is occupied as a school-house for the gra-
tuitous instruction in classical learning, of as many
children as are sent thither by their parents. There
are, besides, no less than eight charity schools for
boys and girls, to- which several Sunday schools
have, of late years, been added. Other charitable
institutions are twelve alms-houses, and a dispen-
sary, supported on a liberal plan by voluntary con-
tributions. The town-hall, in the market-place,
serves the various uses of a council-room, a market-
house, and a town-prison, to which last purpose,
it is but ill-adapted : having no more than two dun-
geons, each ten feet by eight, without cither court,
water, or sewer. — The manufactures of Kiddermin-
ster have experienced many mutations : formerly it
was famous for linsey woollens ; then, for friezes ;
afterwards, for tammies and flowered stuffs ; and
in 1735, the carpet trade was introduced, to the
TOT., iv. — NO. 178. * J
diminution of all the rest. Forty years since there
were 1700 silk and worsted looms, each employing
one weaver ; 250 carpet looms, each employing a
man and a boy ; and about 5000 people occupied in
the preparation of materials. By a late enumera-
tion, the worsted looms were found to be 700, and
the carpet looms 1000 : so that the aggregate
number of persons to whom they give employment
cannot be said to be diminished. Among the several
reasons, why Kidderminster has excelled in the car-
pet manufacture, is one founded in the peculiar
properties of the water of the Stour, well adapted,
by its impregnation with fuller's earth and iron par-
ticles, for the operations of scouring and striking.
Amid so much prosperity in serious pursuits, the
inhabitants of Kidderminster are not without their
pleasures ; part of which are supplied by the agree-
able character of the surrounding country, in which
rise several chalybeate springs ; and sedentary re-
laxation is found in the several reading societies,"
assembly-room, &c. which a cultivated taste has
instituted. The government of the town is admini-
stered by justices, a recorder, and a bailiff; in elect-
ing the last of whom, the inhabitants, by a singular
custom, assemble to throw cabbage-stalks at each
other ; whilst the whole newly-elected municipal
body are pelted by the most respectable of the in-
habitants with apples. Ofthefew relics of antiquity
to be distinguished in the neighbourhood, one is an
antique tower of reddish stone, now incorporated
in a modern house, on the banks of the canal ; and
supposed to be the remains of a castle, once pos-
sessed by the Cookseys. On Wassal Hill are the
traces of a small camp. — Among the numerous sec-
taries which abound in the town, are many Presby-
terian dissenters, descended from the congregation
of Mr. Baxter, who long resided here, as vicar, and
in whose history some traits of disinterestedness
occur, which cannot be too frequently recorded :
that, to Cromwell, he openly expressed his attach-
ment (o monarchy ; and from Charles II. he refused
the bishopric of Hereford. — Late in the 15th cen-
tury, this town gave birth to Richard de Keder-
myster, a learned divine, who figured in the defence
of the church against the schismatics of those days ,
and stood high in the favour of Henry VIII.
The small village of King's Norton, .a chapelry
in Bromsgrove parish, has a church with a lofty
spire, and windows of stained glass ; a free-school,
founded by Edward VI. ; and, in the neighbour-
hood, the tunnel through which flows the Worcester
and Birmingham canal, 16 feet wide, 18 high, and
nearly two miles in length.
In the parish of Northfield, are the ruins of
Wooly Castle, now reduced almost to a single wall.
Its situation is low, surrounded by a deep moat, and
now cultivated as a garden. In the church, is an
nncient door-way, with a singularly ornamented
Saxon arch ; and the windows are remarkable, as
elegant specimens of the Gothic style of the reigu
of John.
6 o . Ombersley,
/.1 4
WORCESTERSHIRE.
Oiubersley, a village situated northward from
Worcester, on the road to Kidderminster, belongs
to the Sandys family ; and consists, chiefly, of
nncient, wooden -framed houses, without a feature
of industrious occupation of comfort. The advan-
tages of education, however, are found by the
children of the poor in a well-conducted charity-
school. Near the church, which is distinguished
by its low chancel, and lofty spire, stands Ombers-
ley Court, the seat of the Marchioness of Downshire,
surrounded by a flat but well-wooded demesne, and
more remarkable for its internal decorations than for
its outward beauty. In the breakfast parlour are
some capital portraits of the Russel and Howard
family, and one of Charles Lewis, brother of Prince
Rupert ; in the saloon are Bishop Sandys, his eldest
son, and their wives ; and a picture by JDobson, the
subject of which is Prince Rupert and Colonel Mur-
ray, over a bottle, persuading Colonel Russel,
father of Lord Oxford, to resume his commission,
which he had thrown up in disgust. In this the
artist has pourtrayed, with admirable definitiveness,
the shades of drunkenness. The dining-parlour is
enlivened with portraits of Lady Denham, Sir John
Cheek, preceptor to Edward VI. and of a little boy
in a hunting dress, slashed sleeves, large ruffles,
and laced cravat ; the son of Captain Samuel Sandys.
On the stair-case is a large painting, executed by
Fuller, of the six leading whigs of Queen Anne's
reign, the Duke of Devonshire, Lord Halifax, Lord
Somers, Lord Wharton, Lord Sunderland, and
Lord Oxford, well known in our history by the ap-
pellation of the Junto. Among the remaining pic-
tures, is a portrait of George Sandys, brother to
the first peer, and a well-known traveller to the
Holy Liutd, through Turkey and Egypt. — Of the
original edifice in this neighbourhood, called Holt
Castle, few remains exist, but such as are found in
the ruins of a castle, built in later times by the
Beauchamps. The modern edifice, which bears this
name, was built in the reign of Elizabeth, by Sir
Thomas Bromley ; and is now occupied by a farmer.
The church of Holt, which is very ancient, is ac-
counted the most complete specimen of Saxon archi-
tecture in the country ; and is distinguished for the
circular zig-zag mouldings of its door-ways, and
its grotesque capitals, supported by low massy
pillars.
The church of Pedmore, a village situated one
mile northward from Hagley, is ancient, and distin-
guished hy the Saxon features of its south door-
way, an inner arch, of the same character, and a
piece of sculpture, which represents the Deity, sur-
rounded l)> the symbols of the evangelists.
Rtdditeh, a parish on the borders of the county,
is the great scat of the needle manufactory, iu which
many hundred persons are employed.
The neat village of Salwarp, composed of many
pleasing, and even elegant, dwellings, occupies a
comma nding site on the rivulet, from which it has
it-i name. Bui this place is most remarkable for an
elegant modern mansion, called High Purk, the
seat of Philip Gresley, Esq. situated at a small dis-
tance. It is also distinguished as the birth-place of
Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, in 1381,
whose chivalrous prowess was such as to obtain for
him the honourable title of the " Father of Cour-
tesie."
Stourbridge, 21 miles N.E. by N. from Worcester,
situated, as its name imports, upon the Stour, was
probably not founded before the reign of Henry VI. ;
at least, it was not known by that name ; and, at
present, though a populous town, it is no more
than a chapelry in Swinford parish. Besides the
chapel, wlu'ch was built about 1742, of brick, in a
good style of architecture, there are several con-
venticles for dissenters, who form no inconsiderable
part of the population. An excellent free-school
was founded here by Edward VI., which, besides
being well endowed, possesses a good library ; and
is under the superintendence of eight governors,
residents in the parish. About the year 1788, a
valuable public library was also established, which
continues to be augmented by the liberal spirit of
its supporters. The mines of coal in the neighbour-
hood, and the manufactures of iron, particularly
nails, afford considerable employment to the inhabi-
tants ; but the principal occupation is found in the
glass manufacture, in which the artists of Stour-
bridge are acknowledged to excel.
The town of Stourport, situated four miles south-
ward from Kidderminster, at the junction of the
I Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal with the
j Severn, owes its prosperity, even its existence, to
the peculiar advantages of its site. Fifty years
since, before the completion of the canal, there was
no appearance of a town here ; the spot was a bar-
ren heath, scattered over with a few squalid cottages,
| dependent on the neighbouring village of Mitton.
! At present it is the general depot of communication
| between the central and the western parts of the
I kingdom. The houses are mostly on a good scale,
j neat and commodious ; and the streets clean, airy,
full of shops, and thronged with people. The bridge
over the Severn, consisting of a single arch of iron,
of 150 feet span, and rising 50 feet above the sur-
face of the water, is an object of great beauty, as
well as utility. So immediate a consequence of in-
dustry, is elegance, that already a subscription,
card, and dancing assembly", has been established ;
1 which, particularly in the winter months, has a
numerous and respectable attendance.
The neat and populous village of Old Swinfred,
has a Gothic church, ornamented with a handsome
spire ; but it is remarkable chiefly for the institution
there of an hospital, by Thomas Foley, Esq. who
endowed it with 1500 acres of land, and other pro-
perty, then worth 600/. per annum ; but now of
considerably greater value. In this beneficent esta-
blishment, sixty boys are completely educated. The
building, which belongs to the days of Elizabeth,
has all the appearance of an ancient college ;
heightened
VVOHCESTFRSNIRE
heightened by the appropriate dress of its inmates,
which resembles that worn by the scholars of Christ's^
Hospital. — The Cl^nt hills, which are conspicuous'
objects in thin neighbourhood, are celebrated in the
traditions of the place as a retreat and station of
the Britons, during their warfare with the Romans,
who are snul to have occupied Witchbury. The
latter, which is mostly included in Hagley park,
rises in three beautiful swells ; two of which are
crowned with the obelisk and the Thescan temple,
already noticed.
In Wolverlcy parish, near Kidderminster, is
Sion Hill, the pleasant residence of John Hurtle,
Esq. ; and Lea Castle, the no less delightful seat
of J. Knight, Esq. a gentleman who has distin-
guished himself, at various important crises, by
his praiseworthy exertions for the promotion of the
public good. — In this village was born John Bas-
kerville, a celebrated typographer ; and, in other
respects, a useful and estimable character, of the
last century.*
OSWALDESLOW.] — The hundred of Oswaldeslow,
which composes the central part of the county, com-
prises three divisions : the upper, which contains
Armscot, Aston Magna, Blackwall, Blockley Cleeve
Prior, Cuddesden, Darlsford, Darlingscote, Ditch-
ford, Dome, Draycot, Eveidode, Icomb, Longdon,
Newbold and Tolton, Paxford, Shipston-upon-
Stour, Tidmington, and Tredington ; the middle,
which includes Alston Alvechurch, Beshampton,
Bredon, Conderton, Cropthorne, and Charlton,
Elm Castle, Fladbury, Harvington, Hill, and Moor,
Hembleton, Holblench, Hoddington, Crowle, Ink-
berrow, Norton juxta Bredon, Overbury, Rous
Lench, Sedgebarrow, Stock and Bradley, Stoke :
Prior, Tiddington, Tibberton, and Tlirockmorton ;
arid the lower, which consists of Battenhall, Bre-
dicot, Broadwas, Berrow, Churchill, Claines, Crome [
Hill Crome, llenlip, Holdfast, and Islington, Holt
St. John's in Bedwardine, Kemsey, Kniglitwick, '
Lyndridge, and Pensax, Knighton upon Teme, St. i
Michael's in Bedwardine, Little Malvern, Norton '
juxta Kemsey, Oddingley, Peudock, Kidrnarley
d'Abtot, Kipple, Spetchley, Stoulton, Upton upon
Severn, Warden, Wclland, Whitstancrs, Wliitting- '
ton and Sudbury, Whilley Parva, White Lady
Aston, Wichenford, Wick Episcopi, and Wolver- '•
ley.
The delightful little village of Churchill, near
Spetchley, possesses a mineral water, which, com-
bined with the natural beauties of the place,
once promised to rival Tunbridge in attraction. '
The roads hither, were, however, then incommodi- :
ous ; and since they have been improved, the cele-
* Born in 1706, he became heir to an estate of about 60f.
per annum, which he allowed his parents to enjoy during their '
lives. Having, by diligent industry, established himself at
Birmingham, in the Japan business, he turned his attention to
letter-founding; and soon produced editions of the classics, of '
the bible, and of the liturgy, which were universally admired '
apd valued. After h'fi death, in 1715, great difficulty was ex-'
brity of Malvern has had the effect of diverting
visitors from this place.
Claines, which was once a chapelry in the parish
of St. Helen's, Worcester, has now a church, which
is situated at two miles distance, in the meadows ;
and contains a few monuments. In this parish is
White Ladies, the retreat of Charles II. after the
battle of Worcester. Here, also on an island, called
Bevere, formed by the Beverburn, is the seat of the
late Dr. Nash, an elegant and convenient residence,
surrounded by shrubbery walks, and a terrace, a
mile in circuit. This island is otherwise remarkable
for having twice proved an asylum to the citizens
of Worcester : in the time of Hardicanute, in 1011 ;
and in 1637, during the time of a dreadful pesti-
lence, mentioned in our historical sketch.
Coleridge, a pleasant village, situated on the
banks of the Teme, three miles westward from Wor-
cester, is rather small ; but description can give but
a faint idea of the beauty of the mansion-house, the
seat of Rowland Berkeley, Esq. a modern building,
wilh a light and airy elevation. There is no appa-
rent incongruity, although the scenery around, at,
least the home scenery, is laid out in the antique,
style. The avenue, nearly a mile in length, is form-
ed of majestic trees ; which, with the picturesque
wanderings of the Teme, through the irregular and.
broken ground, present the most interesting ap-
pearance.
On Cruchbarrow Hill, south-eastward from Wor-
cester, a moat exists, within which formerly stood
a manor-house. Notwithstanding its name, which
signifies the " hill of burial," it bears evident marks
of having been a Roman, and perhaps a British
station. — Round Hill, in the vicinity, is crowned,
at its very summit, by a respectable mansion, whence-
is a delightful prospect over the vale of Severn.
The village of Hallow, finely situated on the bank
of the Severn, is distinguished by the richness and
beauty of the surrounding scenery. On Ihe summit
of the eminence, occupied by the village, stands thu
villa of Hallow, the pleasure grounds of which arn
the most striking that the liveliest imagination could
picture ; and are famous for a purgative chalybeate-
spring, supposed to be equal in efficacy to the waters
of Cheltenham.
Kemsey, situated three miles from Worcester, .
near the Severn, had a monastery, as early as the
year 779. The numerous villas, belonging to re-
spectable persons of small property, give it an air •
of neatness, and even elegance. Near the church,,
which is sufficiently commodious, are the vestiges .
of an ancient camp, supposed by some to be Roman ;
by others, Saxon, or even Danish. Kemsey is fur-
perienced in finding purchasers for his elegant types, and the
remaining copies of his works, which were, however, at length
disposed of for a considerable sum. He was buried, by his
express direction, in his own grounds, beneath flat stones,
without inscription ; consistently with a system of Theism,
which he had zealously avowed during his life.
th«
516
WORCESTERSHIRE.
ther remarkable for the appropriation of its rectory
to the college of Westbury, at the instance of " Wil-
lyam Canyge," so well known as the person to
whom Chatterton ascribed some of his ingenious
poems.
The church of Leigh, in which parish the Deve-
reux family were formerly great landholders, was
repaired by Sir Walter Devereux, whose arms ap-
pear on the ceiling, surrounded by the moon and
stars, and the blue ether. It also contains many
curious monuments of the Cottes.
Powick, situated south-westward from Worces-
ter; and on the opposite bank of the Severn, occu<-
pies the verge of a declivity, which appears crowned
by the church. Here the Terae flows into the Severn,
through an ancient bridge, between which and the
city of Worcester, on the plain, a battle was fought
in 1642. The church, which claims a large share
of attention, by its lofty position and neat appear-
ance, is in a pleasing style of Gothic building ; but
contains no ancient monuments. Among the nume-
rous villas, with which the place abounds, is the
seat of Mr. Domville ; and at the distance of a mile
is Beauchamp's Court, once the residence of the
noble family of Beauchamp, of Powick, now occu-
pied as a farm-house.
Perdiswell, the seat of J. Wakeman, Esq. which
stands near the Droitwich road, is an elegant modern
edifice of freestone, sheltered by plantations, which
are disposed with great taste and effect, though on
an unvaried level. — Rose Place, which lies north-
eastward from Worcester, is the seat of Thomas
Williams, Esq. — Blankets, which derives its name
from an ancient possessor, is a convenient residence
of brick.
At Spetchley, which lies south-eastward from
Worcester, was formerly a manor-house, which was
burned by the Royalists, during the civil war, though
Sir Robert Berkeley, the then proprietor, was a
Royalist himself, and had suffered a fineof'20,000/.
.besides imprisonment, for his principles. After that
event, the stables were fitted up as a dwelling-house.
The church contains a good monument of Sir Robert,
who was the celebrated judge, representing him in
his robes, in a recumbent posture. Spetchley be-
came, about fifty years ago, the residence of a gen-
tleman, distinguished by the eventful character of
bis life, and his amiable qualities — Mr. Falkner,*
chaplain in the family of Robert Berkeley, Esq.
Stoughton is remarkable, chiefly for its having
been the birth-place of Dr. William Derham, a man
" who had the happy talent of uniting divinity with
philosophy." Among other preferments, he was
This gentleman was the son of an eminent surgeon, in
Manchester, and studied his profession; but, having become
known to the master of a Guinea ship, he was persuaded to
make a voyage as his surgeon. Having fallen sick at Buenos
Ayres, he was so well nursed by the Jesuits, and convinced
of the charitable spirit of their profession, that he enrolled
himself among them ; and, during forty years, he continued to
labour for the propagation of his faith ; until, tbe Jesuits being
chaplain to George II. then Prince of Wales ; and
canon of Windsor. But his memory receives its
greatest lustre from his two productions upon Phy-
sico, and Astro-Theology, which appeared about
1713. He lived to the age of 79, and died in 1735.
In the neighbourhood of this village are the seats
of General Ellis, and Mr. Baker ; with a few others
of minor consideration.
Thorngrove, situated at the distance of one mile
from Hallow village, excites a strong interest in
all minds, from its having been the residence of
Luck i:, the brother of Napoleon Buonapart. In
this house, which is in a plain style of architecture,
surrounded by a rural demesne, lived in unagitated
retirement, the brother of the man, who, seated
on the pinnacle of power, could and did dispense
crowns to those of his family, who would accept,
and could keep, them.
Tibberton, situated eastward from Worcester, is
an extensive parish, in which a great change has
recently been wrought by inclosures, and other
public works, to the advantage of the whole neigh-
bourhood.
White Lady Aston, in the neighbourhood of
Churchill, is remarkable for its old manor-house,
in which Oliver Cromwell had his head-quarters,
before the battle of Worcester ; and for an estate,
which, having fallen to Bishop Lloyd, by the delin-
quency and execution of its possessor, he lodged ifl
trustees for the endowment of two schools in Wor-
cester.
PERSHORE.] — The hundred of Pershore, com-
posed of two sub-divisions, contains the parishes
of Abhcrton, Alderminster, Beoly, Besford, Ber-
lingham, Bricklehanlpton, Broadway, Broughton
Hacket, Great and Little Comberton, Defford,
Dormeston, Eckington, Flyford Flavel, Grafton
Flyford, Martin Hussingtree, Naunton Beauchamp,
Pensham, Peopleton, Pershore St. Andrew's and
Holy Cross, Pinvie, Piddle North, Pirton, Strens-
hara, Upton Snodbury, Walcot, and Wick juxta
Pershore, in its upper division ; and, in the lower,
Birlsmorton, Braunsford, Bushley, Chaseley, El-
dersfield, Hanley Castle, Leigh, Langdon, Madres-
field, Malvern Great, Mathon, Castle Morton, New-
lands, Powick, Queenhill, Severnstoke, Staunton,
and Yardley.
Abberton, which lies one mile northward from
Naunton Beauchamp, deserves notice, for its medi-
cinal wells, of a bitter, cathartic water, which is
reputed to be equal in efficacy to that of Epsom.
Bredon, a neat village, near the borders of the
county, being in the vicinity of Tewkesbury, shares
disembodied, he was sent to Spain, and thence returned to his
native land. Here, he found himself a stranger ; and was easily
induced, by his friendship for Mr. Berkeley, to domesticate in
that gentleman's house, where he wrote an account of Pata-
gonia ; the principal field of his protracted labours. Of his
medical experience and practice, some of the most intelligent
physicians of that day have spoken in terms of high commenda-
tion. He died about 1781.
tbc
WORCESTERSHIRE.
517
the Benefit of its staple occupation, the stocking
manufactory. Here was, formerly, a monastery,
founded by Eanwolphus, King of Mercia ; 'anil ex-
istent under its own superior, until 841 ; but given
at that period to the bishopric of Worcester. The
present church is a neat, but antique edifice, partly
in the Saxon style of architecture, partly more
modern ; and contains (lie tomb, among many others,
of the celebrated Bishop Prideaux. In the parish
are the ruins of a chapel, called Mitton ; and on the
hill, at the foot of which lies the village, is an ancient
camp with a double entrenchment, of uncertain
origin. — Wollns Hall, the seat of Charles Hanford,
Esq. situated on the north side of this hill, bears
the date, 1011, on the porch ; but the greater part
of the building seems of much earlier erection.
The stone of which it is built, darker in colour,
and closer in grain than part of Portland, is no
longer found in the neighbourhood. Many of the
apartments are distinguished for their size, lightness,
and elegance ; particularly the chapel, which is in
an upper story. Among the pictures, are some
portraits by Vandyck, and Sir Peter Lely. The
view from the house and ground is at once exten-
sive and beautiful : as it includes the abbey and
town of Pershore ; the verdant country and cheer-
ful villas by which it is surrounded ; the Avon,
enlivened by a busy navigation ; Broadway Hill,
Lord Coventry's tower, among hanging woods ; the
woods and hills of Gloucestershire ; the town of
Cheltenham and Gloucester cathedral ; the hills of
Malvern, and Shropshire, Tewkesbury, Worcester,
and Evesham ; and even May-hill, the Black-moun-
tain, in South Wales. In ascending the hill from
the house, several unusual objects meet the eye,
and excite curiosity : the foundations of a chapel,
dedicated to St. Catharine ; the camp, with a double
entrenchment at the top, supposed, by Dr. Nash,
to be British ; by others, with greater probability,
to be Roman ; the Prospect-house, containing two
rooms ; and, near it, Bramsbury Stone, an immense
mass of rock. This eminence, called Bredon Hill,
rises 800 or 900 feet in perpendicular height above
* Tliis epitaph, so remarkable for its elegance, is as follows :
"To the memory of William Dowdeswell, representative in
parliament for the county of Worcester, chancellor of the
exchequer, in the years 1/66 and 66, and a member of the
King's privy-council ; a senator for twenty years, a minister
for one, and a virtuous citizen for his whole life. A man of
unshaken constancy, inflexible integrity, unremitted industry.
His mind was generous, open, sincere. His manners plain,
simple, and noWe; rejecting all sorts of duplicity and disguise
as useless to his designs, ana odious to his nature. His under-
•standing was comprehensive, steady, vigorous, made for the
practical business of the state.
" In debate he was clear, natural, and convincing. His
knowledge in all things which concerned his duty, profound.
, He understood, beyond any man of his time, the revenues
of his country ; which he preferred to every tiling except its
liberties.
"He was perfect master of the law of parliament, and at-
tached to its privileges, until they were set up against the rights
•f the people. All the proceedings which have weakened
VOL. iv.— no. 178.
the surrounding country, and serves as a boundary
between the vale of Evesham, and the Colswold
district. About a century since, one of its members,
a large hillock, of an acre, sl.ppcd a hundred yards
down the side, with its trees and cattle ; and, not
many years ago, a chasm opened in the solid rock,
200 yards long, fifteen feet wide, and of various
and uncertain depth. On its summit is a large
tower, which commands the extensive prospect,
already noticed ; the three vales spread like a map
beneath ; and the Malvern, Abberley, and Whitley
hills, receding in the blue distance.
The village of Bushley, in the neighbourhood of
Overbury, is remarkable chiefly for an epitaph in
the church to the memory of William Dowdeswell,
Esq. many years a representative in parliament ; of
which it is difficult to say, whether it does greater
honour to its object, or its author, the celebrated
Edmund Burke.*
Comberton, situated northward from Pershore,
occupies a spot, whence the Malvern hills, in a grey
sombre light, form a pleasing back ground, to a
rich thicket of oak that marks its boundary. This
scenery is finely diversified and enlivened by a lock
and mill on the Avon, which take their appellation
from the adjoining village of Nafford ; and at a
greater distance, by the bridge of Eckington, com-
posed of six arches, and built with the reddish stone,
so common in this part of the country.
In the parish of Croome d'Abtot, four miles from
Upton, is Croome Court, the beautiful seat of the
Earl of Coventry, situated in a demesne, for which
nature had done little, and to which art has given
the most picturesque, and moving features. Every
where wood, water, and ornamental buildings, judi-
ciously disposed, vary a scene, originally a dead
flat. This effect is partly the production of Brown,
the celebrated landscape gardener ; but, principally,
of the late Earl, whose skill, as an agriculturist and
an improver of lands, is well known. The house,
built about the beginning of the last century, on the
site of an ancient mansion, which had once been
the seat of the d'Abtots, Earls of Worcester, is
government, endangered freedom, and distracted the British
empire, were by his strenuously opposed : and him last efforts,
under which his health sunk, was to preserve his country from
a civil war, which, being unable to prevent, he had not the
mortification to see.
" He was not more respectable on the public scene, than
amiable in private lif*. Immersed in the greatest affairs, he
never lost the ancient, native, genuine, English character of
a country gentleman, disdaining and neglecting no office in
life.
" He was an useful municipal magistrate, with great care and
clear judgment administering justice, maintaining the police,
relieving the digresses, and regulating the manners, of the
people in his neighbourhood.
"An husband and father, the kindest, gentlest most indul-
gent. He was every thing to his family, except what he gave
up to his country.
" His widow, who labours with life in order to form the
minds of his eleven children to the resemblance of their father,
erects this monument."
6 p rather
518
WORCESTERSHIRE.
rather plain than magnificent in its external ap-
pearance ; but, within, it gratifies every expecta-
tion of what is to be found iu the residence of an
English nobleman. The saloon, lightly fitted up,
in an elegant taste, contains some beautiful marble
slabs, and a portrait of the Lord Keeper, Sir Thomas
Coventry, created Baron Coventry, by Charles I. a
lawyer, of whom it was said that " never Lord
Keeper made fewer orders which were afterwards
reversed, his being grounded on the consent of all
parties." In this room are also portraits of Lord
Thomas Coventry, the Duchess of Hamilton, and
Lady Coventry. The drawing-room is a cabinet
of curiosities. Here are seen the portraits of King
George and the late Queen ; a landscape by Claude,
an exquisite Madonna ; a whimsical picture of a
cabinet ; two pictures of Cleopatra ; two represen-
tations of Venus, and a Satyr, surrounded by Cupids;
and a superb inlaid cabinet, representing subjects of
natural history. Another apartment, which is also
called a drawing-room, is remarkable for being hung
with the finest tapestry now in England. This is of
the Gobelins manufacture ; of crimson ground, with
coloured figures and ornaments. The library con-
tains some antique models ; the hall, some elegant
pillars ; and an extensive gallery, called the Long
Room, extending the whole longitude of the build-
ing, is adorned with plaister casts of the most
elegant antiques. Of the whole house it may be
observed generally, that the ceilings are richly and
tastefully stuccoed ; the mirrors remarkable for their
size and brilliancy ; and the furniture superb. To
complete the character of this delightful residence,
we must observe that the gardens are disposed in
the best taste of English horticulture; and furnished
with the rarest as well as the most beautiful exotics,
among which some superb magnolias flourish in
the open air. A n«w interest is added also to the
grounds., toy the erection in several places of sculp-
tured memorials of departed worth. At the back
of the mansion is an urn, supported by a pedestal,
«n which are these words :
" To the memory ot George William,
Karl of Coventry,
The following lines
Were inscribed
By his successor,
October 23lh, 180y.*
•*'. Sacred to him, the genius of t lie place
Who reared these shades, and formed these sweet retreats,
With ev'ry incense-breathing shrub adorn'cl,
And flow'r of fairest hue ! His cultur'd taste
And native fancy bade the scene around
Kise. perfect ; and the muse whom much he lov'd
Still joys -to haunt it. Crown' d with length of days
He liv'd — one wish alone unsated— • much
His loyal heart .-had cherish'd a fond hope
To hail this day of Jubilee, and close
His earthly course in Britain's hour of joy."
* The Royal Jubilee. These lines were composed by one
of the younger members of the family.
Another urn and pedestal are inscribed : " To
ihe memory of Lancelot Brown, who, by the power
of his inimitable genius, formed this garden scene
out of a morass." Near the latter monument is a
statue of a druid. In the green-house, also, which
is occasionally occupied as a summer apartment,
are statues of Ceres and Pomona. But the princi-
pal feature of this demesne is a body of water, a
mile and a half in length, formed by the draining
of the soil, and the conduct of some insignificant
springs. This is agreeably diversified by small
islands, for the most part covered with trees ; and
' approached by elegant bridges. It has been well
said, that " although the house is surrounded by
! 1400 acres, you do not see a tree, a bush, or this-
: tie, growing there undesignedly or out of place."
It may very justly be styled a pattern farm to this
I kingdom, from its well-formed plantations, and its
I judicious and extensive drains.— Near this, and be-
longing to the Coventry family, is a pleasant rural
seat, on the banks of the Severn, the scenery around
which is scarcely surpassed by any in this truly
picturesque district. The church, which is situated
within the grounds, on a considerable eminence, is
a modern building, which was erected by the late
nobleman. In this renovation, great and laudable
care was taken to preserve the memorials of the
dead, and other relics of the former edifice. Among
the former are four monuments of the Coventry-
family, in black and white marble ; and a handsome
pyramidal tomb has been erected to the late Earl,
with suitable decorations, and an inscription, setting
forth his brilliant qualities in the strongest light.
The village of Great Malvern, now so well known
as a retreat for persons of rank and wealth, is a
place of great antiquity : having had a religious
house of Seculars before the Conquest, of which
the abbot of Westminster claimed the patronage.
This establishment was distinguished by the bene-
factions of William the Conqueror, of some other
sovereigns, and of many private persons of note ;
and, particularly, by the solicitude of Bishop Lati-
mer, for its preservation at the Dissolution. Since
that period, Malvern has been the object of several
royal grants : Elizabeth having given the tythes to
Richard Brathwayte and Roger Bromley, and
Charles I. having made a donation in fee farm of
| all the forest to Sir William Rttssel, Bart, and
j George Strode, Esq. This ancient chase, lying
on the eastern side of the hills, abounded, at the
Conquest, with timber of a large size, and was well
stocked with deer ; but it was at length declared
exempt from the forest laws, by act of parliament,
in the reign of Charles II. Great Malvern, which,
although two miles distant from the Holy well,
esteemed the best of the springs, is the residence
of the greatest part of the visitors to this delightful
neighbourhood, consists of not more than sixty
houses, all extremely neat, and furnished with gar-
dens, small orchards, and shrubberies, which give
to the scene an air of elegant rusticity. Of these
dwellings, some are the constant summer residences
of their proprietors ; others are lodgings in which
all
WORCESTERSHIRE.
519
«!1 (lie agremens of polished life are to be found ;
aftd the remainder nre the cottages of those who
furnish attendance and service to, and derive their
subsistence from, the respectable society, collected
there. Besides the lodging-houses, which are in
general well filled, there are two very good inns,
the Crown Hotel, and the Foley Arms, where com-
pany may either reside in private apartments, or
partake of the social meal, provided as at Matlock,
Buxton, Harrowgate, &c. The Crown Inn is also
the posting-house; and, having a road through its
garden to St. Anne's Well, is always a centre of
attraction. In a word, Malvern, though small,
boasts some conveniences of a peculiarly desirable
nature : invalids who visit it, and require greater
retirement than usual, may be supplied with lodg-
ings in private families ; and the reception rooms at
each hotel are so commodious, that persons unable
to take active exercise, may, whilst seated in their
easy chairs, enjoy the pleasures of society, and par-
take of the beauty of the scenery. — Slightly to
pourtray the most prominent out-line of this land-
scape, we ascend one of the many hills, whence, on
one hand, we see a champaign country in the highest
state of cultivation, scattered with mansions, lawns,
woods, and other interesting objects, in unceasing
variety ; cheerful and thriving towns, enlivened by
the busy stream of the Severn and the Avon ; and,
in the distance, the bills of Woodbury, and Abber-
ley, Clee and Clent, the Wrekin, the Lickey, the
Broadway hills, Bredon and Cotswold. On the
other side, the eye wanders among winding valleys,
hop-grounds, and swelling hills, clad in verdant
woods, here and there relieved by the appearance
of a white cottnge, or a splendid villa : the whole
ecene bounded by a majestic range of rocky sum-
mits, as far as the Black mountains in Brecknock-
shire, the Skirving hills, the hills of Abprgavenny, !
and Ledbury Mount. Respecting these hills, more i
immediately in the neighbourhood, called Malvern
hills, a late writer observes, that the whole range is
nine miles in length, and presents a chain of rounded
summits, covered with luxuriant vegetation. Three
rise, pre-eminent, above the rest : the Herefordshire
beacon, the Worcestershire beacon, and the North
hill : the height of the first being 1444 feet. Not-
withstanding the green carpet which envelopes these
excrescences of nature, they are composed of rugged
materials, as rocks of Feldspar, horn-blend, quartz,
and mica, with a large quantity of granite ; inter-
mixed with an argillaceous rock, of a dark olive
green colour. On th,e western declivities also, is a
bed of limestone, in which have been discovered many I
curiosities : as marine petrifactions, and zoophytes
of the screwstone kind, with corals, spunges, &c.
— The church of Malvern, distinguished by its lofty
tower, is in form and size the finest in the district.
It is the production of Sir Reginald Bray, who, dis- j
tinguished for his taste in the arts, as for his talents
in the cabinet, superintended the chapel in West-
minster Abbey, and St. George's, at Windsor. In !
the windows, he placed the portraits of Henry VII.
J whom be assisted in ascending the throne ; his
Queen ; Prince Artjtur : and himself; of which the
' two last only have been preserved. The body of
the church is Saxon ; the chancel, Gothic. The fur-
nishing of the interior is rather curious ; particu-
larly the oldest stalls, which exhibit grotesque and
indecent carvings ; and the ground, between the
altar-screen and the east end, which' was originally
covered with red tiles, variegated in orange coloured
clay, with the armorial bearings of many ancient
families, as the Bohuns, Beauchamps, Mortimers,
and Clares. Among the monuments, which are two
numerous to be particularly described, is an ancient
tomb of alabaster, in memory of John Knotsford,
Esq. his wife and five daughters. A plain tomb,
without decoration, rovers the ashes of Richard
Corbet, a Knight Templar, before the fourteenth
century. Near the south wall of the choir, is the
mutilated figure of a knight, in the oldest mail
armour, bearing in his hand a halberd, like a pick-
axe ; and, on his left arm, a round target ; the whole
of very ancient workmanship. Among the nume-
rous modern tablets, which record the mortality of
visitors, is a simple while stone, on which affection
1ms traced the following inscription :
Sacred to the momory
Of Miss Grace Colt,
Only daughter of Robert Colt, Esq.
Of Auldburn, East Lothian.
Died 27th August, 1807,
Aged 21.
His cheerful watch some guardian angel
Around the tomb where youth and virtue lie ;
Mourn, then, no more ; her spirit only sleeps,
Such worth, such genuine worth, can never die.
In May, 171 1 , a flat stone was dug up in the garden
of the old priory-house, the tomb of Walcher, the
second prior.
" Philosophic bonus, digrtus;
Astrologus lotheringus ;
Vir pins et hinnilis ;
Mmiacluis prior hiijns ovilis ;
llic jacet in cista
Cieometricus et Abacista,
Doctor Walrhqrns.
Flet plebs, dolet undiqne clerus ;
Huic lux priina mori
Dedit Octobris senior! ;
Vivet ut in calls
Exh0rot quisque fidelis. 1 135."
This ancient, magnificent, and beautiful conventual
edifice, having become decayed, lately underwent a
complete repair ; and may long remain a valuable
specimen of the style, which composes its best
feature. Attention to the morals of the poor has
here exerted itself in the institution of a Sunday
school, which is supported by constitutions : St.
Anne's well, visited chiefly by those who are inca-
pable
520
WORCESTERSHIRE.
pable of the walk to Hollywell, is situated at the
foot of the steep hill, behind the Crown Inn. The
Ilolywell, which springs from the side of the hill,
two miles southward from the village, is the most
frequented ; probably on account of the beautiful
scenery through which it is approached, and of the
numerous villas, boarding-houses, and walks, gay
with company, which mark its vicinity. The spring
itself has a convenient pump-room ; with several
cisterns, and pumps for the enjoyment of the bath.
Nor is the promenade to this spot, the most delight-
ful, though the most frequented, in the neighbour-
hood. Others conduct the excursive stranger, by
imperceptible ascents, to the summits of the loftiest
eminences, as the Herefordshire Beacon, on which
is an ancient camp of Roman, or British origin ; the
Worcestershire beacon, on which is a rude building
of turf, with seats of the same material ; and the
Wyteh, a deep chasm cut through the rock for the
improvement of the road across these hills. An
antique relic is seen at Malvern, in the abbey gate,
which is well preserved, and exhibits the architec-
ture of the 15th or 16th century.
Hanley Castle, formerly the seat of the Lech-
meres, now belongs to the Hornyolds, of Blackmore
Park. The ancient seat of baronial splendour is
described by Leland as " clene defaced" in his time,
and now there is scarcely one stone upon another.
The extensive parish of Inkberrow, situated on
the eastern side of the county, contains Kuighton
Park, and the ruins of the abbey of Coke Hill, a
small foundation by Isabella, Countess of Warwick,
about 1260. These ruins, indeed, consist but of the
walls of the chapel, which once contained the tomb
of the foundress, but they are the index of recol-
lections and imaginations, which few can feel, none
can describe. The ancient parish church, which
was fast approaching to the term of the devotion
•which erected it, has been recently repaired ; and
the tombs of the Savages, Egiokes, and Woolmers,
sheltered from the ravages of the external atmos-
phere.
At the distance of three miles from Great Mal-
vern, lies the village of Little Malvern, on a slope
•which is thickly planted with hedge-rows. This
place, which, like Great Malvern, had once a reli-
gious house, now consists of a few dwellings, and
the church, which, with its Gothic windows and
tracery, forms a picturesque object, is in ruins.
The outside is covered with mantling ivy, the deep
verdure of which is well contrasted with tlie glow
of some painted glass, which still decorates the
windows ; but the interior is an epitome of decay
and poverty. Some carving, some remains of tes-
selated pavement ; armorial bearings, and rem-
nants of monumental erections, may indeed still be
discovered, encrusted in the dust of neglect, and
exposed to the wanton injuries of profaneness, as
to the ravages of time ; but they eloquently pro-
claim the operations of that spirit which ceases not,
but with the existence of its object— the spirit of
bigotry, which stamps desolation. Near this edifice
stands an antique building of wooden-frame work, on
the site of the old priory, adorned in front by a fine
piece of water, and environed by scenery, to which
a verbal portrait can do no justice ; steep rocks,
clothed with wood ; fertile meadows ; and well cul-
tivated gardens. Here, says a pleasing writer, art
has a venerable aspect given to it by time ; here,
nature is rendered pleasing by her exuberance and
charming simplicity. The scenery of this vicinity
partakes of the character of that around Great
Malvern. — The chief characteristic of the salutary
springs which have bestowed celebrity on both Mal-
verns, is their extreme purity, which enables the
element to pass through the smallest vessels of the
human body. When drunk at the source, it leaves
a tartness in the mouth ; and in the operation of
analysis, it mixes freely with either acids or alkalis.
Dr. Homer examined a gallon of the Holywell
water, which yielded 1 4| grains of solid ingredients :
viz. 6 carbonate of soda, 1£ carbonate of lime, 1 car-
bonate of magnesia, 1| carbonate of iron, 3 sulphate
of soda, H muriate of soda : the remaining grain
being fractions of all, in their proportions. A gallon
from St. Anne's well, yielded 7| grains: 3i carbonate
of soda,lj sulphate of soda,muriateof soda, and small
proportions of carbonate of lime, carbonate of magne-
sia, anil carbonate of iron. A third spring near Great
Malvern has been declared superlatively free from
calcareous matter, and very serviceable in consump-
tions : sufficiently impregnated with iron to be used
as a chalybeate, and so little loaded with earth, as
to permit the ready mixture of the ferruginous par-
ticles with the blood. A scientific work, written by
a resident at Malvern, states that the Holywell water
has proved, particularly in scrofulous cases, of
singular benefit to many afflicted objects ; that in
ophthalmic disorders, also, it has seldom failed oi
being serviceable; and that, in cutaneous affections,
even cancerous complaints, ulcerous cases, glan-
dular obstructions, and in nephritic ailings, it
has never proved inefficacious. It is used exter-
nally, as well as by draught, especially in partial
maladies. But, says a late well-judging writer,
who was an enemy to quackery, it is by the tem-
perate warmth of the air, the great purity of the-
waters, as well as the dissipation of the enchanting
scenery, that Malvern is ehiefly recommended, espe
cially in the autumnal and summer months ; the re
freshing air of the hills tending to create appetite
dispel hypochondria, and revive the spirits. — Then
has long existed an opinion among the inhabitants
that there is a large quantity of treasure concealet
in the hills. About forty years since, a great num
her of silver coins were found in the parish c
Mathom, but they were secreted, and never see
by a man of science. A discovery, in this plact
is also noticed by Camden, of a crown or coronf
of gold, within a musket shot of the trenches of
camp at Colwall. In 1650, one Thomas Tailei
digging a ditch round his cottage, found a crowi
WORCESTERSHIRE.
521
or bracelet of gold, set with precious stones, and
of a size to be drawn over the arm or sleeve. It
wasvsold to Mr. Hill, a jeweller, in Gloucester, for -
37/. ; Hill sold it to a jeweller in Lombard Street,
London, for 250/., and the Londoner disposed of
the stones alone, which were deeply inlaid, for
1500/. according to some ; others relate for one j
third of that sum. The scenery and fame of this
place have inspired the Muse, even at a distant j
period ; modern poets have also made it their theme; '
among whom Mr. Cottle and Dr. Booker have
written pieces- of merit, under the title "Malvern." i
M.adresfield, the seat of Earl Beauchamp of j
Povvick, embosomed in lofty and luxuriant woods of j
oak, elm, andbeech, two or three miles from Malvern, j
is, in reality, what it appears, an ancient seat of j
feudal power. The approach is by a gate between '
two lodges of cut stone, whence a road, thickly
skirted with trees, conducts to the parish chapel,
so closely embowered with tall timber as to shew
nothing but its humble spire and turret above the
sylvan foliage. The house, or castle, is surrounded
by a moat, and retains many other features ,of its
original design ; but modern alterations have changed
some, and left the imagination to conjure up the
wonderful, in order to supply the deficiency. The
incongruity of imbattled walls, and square modern
windows, is contrasted by the gateway with its flat i
Gothic arch, its grated doors, and spandrilled roof.
The interior area, or court, is surrounded by the
most ancient parts of the edifice, among which the
hall, with its lofty roof, richly stained windows, and
beautiful paintings, is distinguished ; whence a gal-
lery, lighted by stained windows, and adorned with
antique slabs of marble, leads to the breakfast-room,
elegantly furnished with some superb cabinets;
the saloon, richly lighted through a profusion of
exquisitely stained glass, and two drawing-rooms,
superbly ornamented with marble slabs," curious
cabinets of highly gilt brass, and tortoise shell, from
the garde meuble of Louis XVI. The dining-par-
lour adjoins the oranc-erv. anirl n»rtnl<»e of the'spien-
lour adjoins the orangery, and partakes
did character of this delightful residence. 'The
winter drawing-room has its walls covered with a
profusion of rich miniatures, commencing with Hol-
bein's, and including a variety of the most distia-
guished characters, in the different eras of our his-
tory, from Henry VII. to Charles II. One in
particular, is highly curious, being but the size of a
common miniature, yet containing seventy heads,
all of which are portraits. The long gallery, which
is suffered to retain its- antique appearance, is orna-
mented with a profusion of pictures, books, busts,
china, &c. and commands from its windows a view
of the finest parts of the surrounding scenery. To
run up this description, in a word, we may observe
that each particular apartment deserves a minute
examination ; being all equally distinguished for
splendor of decorations ; and yet so various, that
the eye is not easily satiated. A tradition of the
family relates that Charles II. slept here the night
VOL. iv.— NO. 178.
before the battle of Worcester ; and in the stnte
bed-room, is an elegant bed, the quilt and furni-
ture of which were wrought by Queen Anne, and
the Duchess of Marlborough.
The church of Naunton Beauchamp, bavin"- a
bear carved in stone at each corner of its turreted
steeple, is supposed to have been built by Urso
d Abtot, the first Norman Earl of Worcester • of
whom Nash relates that, such was his reputation
tor tyranny, it was a common saying when any one
conducted himself VA—tradatur urso— give him to
the bear.
Newland Green is an extensive flat, bordered by
some old, but picturesque cottages ; and a chapel,
which, but for its small wooden spire, might be sup-
posed a farm-house, being framed of timber.
_ At Overbury, which lies south-eastward from
Strensham, on the borders of the county, and in
Oswaldeslow hundred, is a seat of Mr. Martin ;
and a powerful stream gives motion to some corn and
paper-mills, as it did formerly to an iron forge
Pershore, 10 miles S. E. from Worcester, and
situated on the northern bank of the Avon, was once
no less considerable for its abbey, than it is now for
its advantages of site, and numerous population.
t is not to be doubted, that the town owes its
existence to its monastic institution, which, accord-
ing to Tanner, was founded by Oswald, one of the
nephews of Ethelbert, King of Mercia, about (389 ;
according to Leland, by Egelward, Duke of Dor
set, in the reign of Edgar. Whichever of these
notices is the true one, it is certain, that it sustained
many revolutions prior to 984, when it was, at length,
formally established an abbey of Benedictine monks.
To this establishment belonged the present church,
then 250 feet in length, and 120 broad ; but now
much diminished in size. The town church, which
stands near it, is dedicated to All Saints, and has a
small square tower, with a peal of six bells. Few
vestiges of the abbey remain, and even of the con-
ventual church, no part is original, but the tower,
the southern part of the cross, and one of the chapels.
Pershore was one among the number of boroughs,
on which Edward I. confered the privilege of being
represented in his councils, but it was suspended,
probably at the request of the inhabitants themselves,
as no member has been returned since the first. The
vicinity of the town, in which the Avon becomes a
majestic stream, is, like the whole district, distin-
guished for the beauty of its views. At Ayles-
borough, in particular, the landscape exhibits fea-
tures, uncommon even in that enchanting neigh-
bourhood ; not a little improved by a range of
woodland, called Nash's plantation, covered by
30,000 timber trees, which are disposed in regular
vistas.
Rouse Lench, in the vicinity of Abberton and
Naunton Beauchamp, has in the church, among
other curious monuments, that of a Lady Rous, on
which her character is set forth in the fairest light,
concluding with the observation : " Lady Mary
6 « Hacket,
522
WORCESTERSHIRE.
Hacket, sister to the deceased, caused this mirror
to be placed here, that by it many may have the
benefit to dress themselves in suitable attires of
piety and virtue."
Severn Stoke, a small village between Tewkes-
bury and Worcester, commands a fine view of the
Malvern hills. Its church, which is half concealed
by thick trees, contains several monuments of the
Somers, among which is that of John Lord Somers,
the first peer. Here, also, is a handsome seat ot
Dr. Evans, the archdeacon of the diocese.— Severn
End is a venerable seat of the family of Lechmere,
remarkable for then umber and extraordinary growth
of the oak timber. In the grounds also is a Sorintt
Aticuparia, or Service Tree, called Quicken Pear.
— The Rhydd, now the residence of Anthony Lech-
mere, Esq. stands on a rising ground near the
Severn, finely ornamented with surrounding woods.
Staunton, which consists, at present, of a few scat-
tered houses, seems to have once consisted of several
regular streets, and to have enjoyed a large share
of prosperity. It certainly had a fair and a market ;
and, seventy years ago, a large cross existed a mile
from the church, supposed to be the extremity of
the town. But there is little remaining in the church
to confirm the idea.
Strensham, once a seat of the Russels, was, even
in its best days, a large straggling pile of confu-
sion ; and the church has nothing remarkable, but
Us situation on an eminence which overlooks the
Avon, at one of its most beautiful meanderings.
There are a few monuments of the Russels, but
the village is remarkable chiefly for having given
birth to Samuel Butler,* the well-known author of
Hudibras.
Upton, 10£ miles S. from Worcester, has been long
a thriving town, though on a small scale. It suf-
fered much during the civil wars of the 17th century,
having several times become the focus and the object
of an engagement. Its church, which was much
damaged' in the contest, was rebuilt in 1756, in a
handsome manner ; and new seen from several points
in the vicinity, it forms, with its cupola and tower,
a pleasing object in the view. It is to be regretted,
however, that no care was shewn in the ardour of
renovation for the preservation of the stained glass,
or the monuments contained in the old building.
Upton has a well-conducted school, for the gra-
tuitous education of sixteen female children. A
curious cavern is described as having been dis-
covered in this parish, in 1787, by a shepherd's
boy, whether natural or artificial does not appear,
but it is stated to extend about twenty feet ; and to
contain a pit or shaft, 140 feet deep, and full of
water. — In the neighbourhood are several handsome
seats. Blackmore Park, the property of Thomas
Hornyold, Esq. ; Bransell Castle, Eastnor, Castle-
ditch, and Hope End; an ancient, moated manor-
house at Birts Morton ; Castle Morton, the hall of
which was the foundation ot an ancient keep ; Drip-
sill, long the residence of Sir Charles Trubslmw
Withers, and Ham Court, the elegant seat of the
Martin family.
Upton Snodsbury, situated between Irikberrow
parish, and Worcester, was the scene of an atro-
cious crime, which caused the foundation of a charity
school at Worcester.
WORCESTER.]— The city of Worcester, one of
the most ancient and eminent, and one of the best
built and most agreeably situated, in England, is
situated at the distance of 110| miles N. W. by W.
from the metropolis. Though not very lofty, the
principal part occupies elevpted ground along the
river, from which it rises gradually, whilst the
general spaciousness of its streets, which are well
paved and well lighted, and the neat appearance of
its well built brick houses, give it a great resem-
blance to London. Its air and climate are remark-
ably healthy ; and, within these few years, consider-
able improvements have been made, to clear and
enlarge tha Severn, and to supply the city with a
sufficiency of water from some very extensive works
on the banks of the Severn, about a mile above the
bridge, at an expence of 10,000/.
The circumference of the city is about four miles.
It stands in a charming vale on the eastern bank of
the Severn, nearly in the centre of the county. It
is screened from the eastern blasts by a hill covered
with some fine woods, which add much to the beauty
of the scenery ; whilst being open from north to south
in the direction of the river, a brisk current of air
is generally felt. " On the western side of the
Severn, the landscape is generally broken by gentle
and well wooded swells, whose verdant undulations,
topped by the purple tinted Malvern hills, have a
beautiful effect on a fine evening, and serve to com-
plete a picture not often surpassed."— Formerly this
city had a very strong wall, of which some remains
may yet be seen at the back of the commandery, in.
which were six ports or gates, taken down some
years ago. Though the city is of great antiquity,
its plan and construction are so regular, as to place
it on a footing in that respect with any in the king-
dom. Great part of what is now considered as within
the limits of the city, was once only the suburbs.
The largest of these suburban divisions is Sidbury.
Stuk«ly says, " no doubt but this was a Roman
city • yet we could find no remains, but a place in
it called Sidbury, which seems to retain from its
name some memorial of that sort ;" and Dr. Little-
* His father was a respectable tanner, and he was educated
at Cambridge, whence he returned to his native country, and
became an attorney's clerk. Afterwards he was received into
several noWe families, as a dependant; and wrote his Hudibras
under the roof of Sir S.-muel Luke, who is supposed to have
sat for the portrait of his hero. After the Restoration, he
enjoyed some accession of fortune and rank, but he was never
rich; and he died, September 25, 1680, at the age of 68, m
great want. He was interred, at the expence ol a friend, m
the church-yard of St. Paul's Covent Garden ; and a monu-
ment was afterwards erected to his memory in V\ estrnmster
Abbey, by Alderman Barber.
WORCESTERSHIRE.
523
ton observes, that " the eastern suburb of this city
is named Sidbury, and a huge tumulus, or barrow,
above a mile distant, called Cruckbarrow, still re-
mains ; both which it is probable derive their prigiu
from the Romans."
Worcester Cathedral is generally admired. Its
characteristic excellence seems to consist in its
height, space, and the lightness of its architecture,
to which the lofty pinnacles rising from every ter-
mination of the building, as well as from the tower,
materially contribute ; neither should its interior
neatness be disregarded. It is, in all respects, a
noble specimen of the simple Gothic. — The first
church was dedicated to St. Peter. That was
burnt by order of llardicanute, a short time before
the Conquest, and its ruins were entirely pulled
down by Bishop Wolstan a short time after. The
re-edified church was burnt in 1113; and a third
in 1202, with all the adjacent offices of the monas-
tery, and part of the city ; but having been again
rebuilt, and King John buried there, it was in the
presence of Henry III. his son, and of many bishops,
abbots, and nobles, solemnly consecrated in 1218,
by Bishop Sylvester, " to St. Mary, the mother of
God, the blessed apostle St. Peter, and the holy
confessors St. Oswald, and St. Wolstan." — In 1301,
the pillars of the choir, and of the Lady's chapel in
the east end, were beautified by Bishop Giflfard, who
ini. rlaycd small pillars in the great columns, uniting
them by rings of gilt copper. — When the parlia-
mentarian army from London, had arrived at Wor-
cester, under the command of the Earl of Essex,
the soldiers destroyed the organ, broke most of the
beautiful painted windows in pieces, and barbarously
defaced the monuments of the dead. They brought
their horses into the church, and kept fires, and esta-
blished their guard rooms within it ; and they rifled
the library, tore the bibles and service books be-
longing to the choir, and drest up their dragoons in
the surplices and other vestments, in which they
afterwards paraded the streets of the city.
The form of this cathedral is that of a double
cross, displaying the grand features of the Gothic
style. The exterior is in length 514 feet ; in breadth
78 ; and in height 68 ; and the tower, which rises
from the centre of the cross aisle to the altitude of
200 feet, is ornamented at the corners by four lofty
pinnacles, and with elegant battlements of light
.open work. Much curious work may be seen on its
various sides ; as well as ancient statues of the Vir-
gin with the infant Christ, St. Wolstan, St. Oswald,
&c. In this tower is the bell-room, which contains
a set of eight bells, the last of which is thus in-
scribed : —
*' I sweetly toiiling, men do call
" To taste .an meat that feeds the soul."
On entering through the north porch, the great nave
and side aisles present an elegant admixture of the
Anglo-Norman and Gothic orders ; the two western
arches added by Bishop Giffard being of the former,
whilst the remaining seven are of the latter. On
the right, is a mural monument in memory of the
family of Moore : it has the figures of three men
and three women in ancient costume, in the attitude
of prayer. By the inscription, they appear to have
been father and mother, son and wife, brother and
sister. — Close to the western window of the south
aisle, is a modern monument of white marble, to the
memory of Richard Solly, Esq. by the junior Bacon.
Next is the monument of Judge Lyttleton, the
learned father of the law, who died in 1481. He
was appointed one of the judges of the Co'mmon
Pleas by Edward IV. in 1464, and afterwards
created Knight of the Bath. Near this is the mo-
nument of Sir Thomas Littleton, representative for
the county in five successive parliaments. He lived
during the reigns of James 1. and his unfortunate
son. Near the door of the cloysters is the ancient
tomb of Friar Baskerville ; and, on the other side,
is a handsome monument to the memory of Dr.
William Thomas, bishop of this see. In the range
of pillars separating the south aisle from the nave,
is a curious ancient tomb of Robert Wylde, Esq.
and his lady. The next is that of Sir John Beau-
champ of Holt, Baron of Kidderminster, and said
to have been the first peer created by patent. This
monument presents a fine specimen of ancient cos-
tume, and is ornamented with the arms of the dif-
ferent branches of Beauchamp. — Near this is a
hanging monument on a pillar, to the memory of
Mrs. Cecil Warmstry, widow of William Warmstry,
Esq. an exquisite little specimen of the power of
sculpture. — In the great cross aisle, turning to the
right, is a monument to the memory of Mrs. Mary
Hull, wife of William Hall, Esq. of Jamaica, and of
Bevere near this city. Adjoining is a neat monu-
ment by Nollekins, with an excellent bust of Bishop
Johnson. Near this is a superb one to the memory
of Bishop Madox. — In the north transept, is the
monument of Dr. John Hough, bishop of this see,
and head of Magdalen College, Oxford, which la
justly considered as the finest that this cathedral
can boast of. It is a super!) piece of sculpture, by
Roubilliac. — in the same transept, a little to the left,
is a neat marble memorial of the late dean, the
Honourable and Reverend Dr. St. Andrew St. John;
and the monument opposite to that of the bishop, is
in honour of Sir Thomas Street, Knt. one of the
judges displaced by James II.
The stalls in the choir, which are in the best slate
of repair, are of Irish oak, as old as 1397 ; the
carvings are well done, and the turn-up seats are,
as usual in old cathedrals, ornamented on the reverse
with ludicrous, satirical representations, emblema-
tical of the mendicant orders of friars, between whom,
and the lazy inmates of thecloyster, there was per-
petual war. The effect of the east window over the
altar is very fine ; and the octagonal pulpit deserves
attention. The altar-piece is a simple screen, con-
structed of oak, but unsuitably ornamented with
Corinthain
521
WORCESTERSHIRE.
Corinthian pillars. The centre has a painting of
the " Descent from the Cross." Opposite to the
pulpit is the Bishop's Throne, a specimen of antique
workmanship, with the olive branch, as an emblem
of peace, &c. The organ, over the western en-
trance, has a fine tone, and is supposed to be
unrivalled in the trumpet stop.
Passing up to the altar, is an altar-tomb, in the
centre, and near to the east end. This is the tomb
of King John, the most ancient one that is existing,
in England, of the Royal family, since the Con-
quest. His effigies lies on the tomb, crowned ; on
which was written, but now almost illegible, " Jo-
hannes Reg Anglise." In his right hand is a sceptre ;
in. his left a sword, whose point is received in the
mouth of a lion couchant at his feet. The figure is
as large as life ; and on each side, on a level with
the pavement, are two sepulchral images of a smaller
size, of the Bishops S. Oswald, and S. Wolstan,
between whom he had desired to be laid, in order to
secure the absence of evil spirits.* — On ascending
the steps of the altar, appears the stone covering of
the body of William, Duke of Hamilton, who fell
at the battle of Worcester, in 1651.
The chapel of Prince Arthur, the general design
of which is the history of the union of the two con-
tending parties, is surrounded on all sides, except
the east, with highly ornamented open work, in the
fashion of the Gothic screens, and contains the
* History records, that King John died llie 19lh of October,
1216, in the fifty-first year of his age, and eighteenth of his
reign. Walter of Coventry states, that he died of a dysentry,
at Newark upon Trent, and that his body was carried to Wor-
cester, but his bowels buried atCroxton, in the house of the
Praemonstratensian order. It ha'd been supposed, that this was
merely a cenotaph, and that the body by in the Lady's Cha-
pel, in consequence of which, the dean and chapter had in-
tended to remove it to (hat spot ; but being anxious to ascertain
the fact, an investigation took place on the 17th of July, 1797.
Green, who gives an interesting account of this procedure,
says, " they commenced (heir research by first removing the
effigies and the stone-slab on which k rested ; by which means
the interior of the monument was laid open, and they disco-
vered two brick partition walls, raised evidently to assist in
supporting the superincumbent covering. The spaces between
these walls, and the ends of uie tomb, were filled witli rubbish ;
but upon removing the end, and one of llie pannels at each
side, when the rubbish had been cleared away, ihey found too
strong e!m boards, originally joined by a batten nailed to each
end, and which having dropped off, had now left the boards
loose. Under these boards lay a stone coffin, containing the
lloyal corpse, which was observed to have been laid in the
coffin, exactly as the figure upon the tomb represented. The
skull, instead of being placed as usual, had the foramen mag-
num turned upwards ; the interior part of the os froiitis was
much decayed ; the head in fact was so much damaged, that
the ossa mazillaria superiora, or upper jaws, were completely
detached from the head, and lying near the elbow of the right
arm, and yet retained four of the teeth in sound condition ; the
lower jaw bones had also been displaced, but these had no teeth
remaining; and some grey hairs were still visible on the top of
the head, or, more technically speaking with respect to their
local situation, on the upper part of the cranium, in the vicinity
of the sagittal suture. The ulna of the left arm, which had been
folded across the body, was'found lying on the breast ; the ulna
of the right arm was nearly in its proper position ; but neither
tomb of this young prince, the elder brother of
Henry VIII. The top of this chapel terminates in
an arched roof, with open-work battlements and
pyramids ; the inside of the roof is- fretted very
curiously with the prince's arms in the centre ; and
there are various coats of the Royal arms at each
end. In the centre, is the tomb of white marble,
inscribed in the black letter, as follows : —
" Here lyeth buried Prince Arthur the first begotten
Sonne of the Right Renowned King Henry IheSeventhe
Which noble Prince departed out of this transitory
Life alt the Castle of Ludlow the seaventeenthe
Yeere of his father's raygne and in the yeere of
Our Lord God on thousand five hundred and two."
Outside, on the north, are several statues of
saints, and escutcheons supported by angels ; the
south side, being of a greater altitude, has several
pillars of five ranges of images of virgins, bishops,
kings, confessors, &c. There are also represen-
tations of our Saviour crowned, and of the arms of
England as then borne, with the quarterings of De
Burgh for the Earldom of Ulster, and of Mortimer,
Earl of March. — On the opposite side of the altar
is a monument of Bishop Bullingham, divided in
two by the wall of the choir. In the dean's chapel,
are two ancient tombs ; the one in the centre, is that
of Sir Gryflith Rice and his lady ; that close to the
south wall, contains the body of a crusader, Sir
of the radii, nor any of the bones of the hand, could be found:
the ossa femorum, tibia;, fibulx, or thigh and leg bones, and
others of the inferior extremities, were very perfect, and upon
some of the bones of the toes, belonging to the right foot, were
even found vestiges of the nails. Some large pieces of mortar
were found on and below the abdomen, from which (here could
be no doubt of the body having been removed from the original
place of its interment. The dress of the corpse seems exactly
to have corresponded with that of the monumental figure, ex-
cepting the gloves on its hands, and the crown on its head,
which on the skull in the coffin was found lo have been buried.
This once sacred -envelope appeared to have fitted the head
very exactly, and had evidently been tied, or buckled, under
the chin by straps, as part of them remained. The body had
been covered with a robe reaching from the neck nearly to llie
feet, and some of its embroidery was still visible near its right
knee ; it appeared to have been made of strong crimson damask,
but the injuries of time rendered it difficult to ascertain that
exactly ; the cuff to the left hand remained ; fragments of his
sword, and of its scabbard, which had been placed in the left
hand, still were in existence, and the scabbard was more per-
fect than the sword. On the legs there had been an ornamental
covering, tied on the ancles, and extending over the feet, where
the toes were visible through its decayed parts. The coffin is
of that stone found at Higley, in this county, and totally differ-
ent from that of which (he tomb is constructed ; a very consi-
derable fracture runs obliquely through it ; the coffin is laid
upon the pavement of the choir, without being let into it; and
its original covering was the stone upon which the effigy is cut,
as that exactly corresponds with it in figure and dimensions.
It is to be regretted, that correct drawings of the whole interior
were not taken ; but the confusion occasioned by the crowds,
who impatiently came to see the unexpectedly-discovered re-
mains, rendered it necessary to shut up the object of (heir
curiosity ; which was therefore done on the next day, and the
tomb restored to its original condition."
Robert
WORCESTERSHIRE.
.-525
Robert Harconrt, whose effigies lies on it, in the
armour and attitude of a knight of the cross. In
the southern wing, or aisle, under an arch, is a very
fine monument of Dean Eedes ; whose figure lies
under a canopy, supported hy four Corinthian pillars.
— Entering the Lady's chapel, on the right, are two
tombs, supposed to be those of St. Oswald and St.
Wolstan, whose sepulchral effigies are also in the
choir, on each side of King John's tomb. Opposite
to Dean Eedes's tomb is that of Bishop Thorn-
borough, which was erected in 1627, fo«rteen years
before the death of the bishop. At the east end of
this monument is the consistory court. Turning
into the north aisle of the Lady's chapel, on the
right, is an exquisite specimen of monumental
sculpture, to the memory of Mrs. M. Rae, who
died in the bloom of life, in 1770. Next to this is
the supposed tomb of Sir James Beatichamp. Four
monuments, at the back of the screen of the high
altar, and in the Lady's chapel, are of the Bishops,
Gauden, Stillingfleet, Pleetwood, and Blandford.
In the north aisle, under an arch in the wall of the
choir, is an episcopal tomb, supposed to be that of
Walter de Cantilupe. Close by it, is that of John
de Constantiis, a bishop of this see. To the right
is the Bishop's chapel, having a tomb against its
north wall, of Bishop Parry. The figures of Time
and Death, which are above the canopy, are de-
serving notice. In this part of the cathedral, is a
tomb, formerly shewn as that of the Countess of
Salisbury, of garter memory, in the reign of Ed-
ward III., but ascertained to be that of Andela,
daughter, and sole heiress of Griffin de Albo Monas-
terio, or Blanchminster, Lord of tchtefeld, Salop,
wife of John, son of Griffin de Warrenne, natural
son of William, sixth Earl of Surrey. It is curious,
as affording a specimen of the dress of old times.
Under the second window of the north aisle, on the
floor, lies a stone coffin of a lady, removed hither
from the Charnel-house chapel. — Under the choir is
an extensive vault, extending also under the side
aisles, eleven feet high, and sixty long.
The cloysters are 120 feet by 120, and 16 feet in
width. Their vaulted roof is adorned with a variety
of sculpture. In the north side, on the keystone
of the centre arch, is, in good preservation, a well-
wrought figure of the Virgin, with the infant Christ
in her lap, but the heads of both are gone. In the
southern cloyster is a royal genealogy of Judah and
Israel on the keystone of the arches. — In the south-
west corner, is the ancient lavatory, or cistern for
washing, in which the monks were obliged to wash
their hands when going into and coming out from
their meals. It resembles a manger, and was sup-
plied by a spring from Hilnwick, near St. John's. —
The refectory is in the south cloyster, now known
by the name of the College Hall ; a spacious and
lofty apartment, in which is always held the triennial
meeting of the three choirs of Worcester, Hereford,
and Gloucester. It has also been appropriated to
th» use of the King's school, founded by Heary VIII.
VOL. iv. — NO. 178.
for forty scholars. On the eastern side of the cloy-
ster, is an ancient passage of Saxon workmanship,
leading to the deanery. Close to this is the entrance
to the chapter-house, which is of a circular, or
rather decagonal form, in diameter fifty-eight feet,
and forty-five in height, with its curious roof sup-
ported by a single pillar. This, constituting the
council chamber, and also the library, is a com-
fortable room, ornamented with a copy of Rubens's
famous Antwerp picture, the " Descent from the
Cross," &c. — Of the public offices of the monastery,
there now remains only the Audit-hall, anciently
called the "Guest-hall," built in 1320, by Wolstan
de Braunsford. It was intended exclusively for
the reception of strangers, as the rules of the order
forbade their being entertained at the same table
with the monks. A monthly court, called " Gues-
tenlmll Court," was held here by the monastery, for
the purpose of determining small differences among
their tenantry. — The College-yard, or church-yard,
is an open airy place. There was formerly a stone
cross here, which was the usual preaching place, as
at St. Paul's London. The cross was demolished
in the time of the civil wars.— The College Green, on
the south side of the cathedral, is also an open airy
place, surrounded by the church, and some ranges
of good houses ; but the principal object of atten-
tion is Edgar's tower, a building of great anti-
quity. It has on its front, statues of King Edgar
and his queens ; and on the opposite side is a re-
markable bust of a monk, not inelegantly finished.
On the west front, in a niche over the gateway, is a
well executed bust of George II., erected "at the
expence of the dean and chapter. This tower was
the principal entrance to the castle, but when the
church encroached upon its grounds, it seems to
have become part of the ecclesiastical premises,
is now open in part occupied by the Registrar's
office.
The Bishop's Palace stands near the cathedral, in
a commanding situation, on the bank of the Severn,
which flows at the bottom of the garden. Originally
it was surrounded with embattled walls, by Bishop
Giffard ; but its present modern front is the work of
Bishop Stillingfleet. The structure is commodious,
and the different parts of the ancient building, in
the interior, have been arranged so as to unite com-
fort with elegance. The gardens are neat, with a
tine prospect on the river.
At the Dissolution, the revenues of the priory, &c.
according to Tanner, amounted to 1386/. 12s. lOe?.
or 1290/. 10s. Qd, ; most of which was regranted,
for the endowment of a dean, ten prebendaries, ten
minor canons, ten lay clerks, ten choristers, forty
king's scholars, two schoolmasters, together with
a verger and other subordinate officers.
The Castle once stood in this vicinity ; but, as
early as the reign of Henry VIII. it was in a state
of complete dilapidation ; and, with the exception
of some remains of the ancient walls, which may be
traced in the county gaol, there is nothing left but
6 R the
620
WORCESTERSHIRE.
the dungeon, or donjon-hill, which is upon a large
scale, now enclosed in a pleasant garden, and gene-
rally known by the name of Castle-hill. Urso
d' Abtot, the first hereditary sheriff of the county,
is generally considered as its founder.
The church of St. Michael the archangel, or
Bedwardine, stands at the north-east angle of that
building, but is, notwithstanding, considered as out
of the city. Its parish includes the college church-
yard, and is sometimes called the college precincts.
It is a very ancient specimen of ecclesiastical archi-
tecture ; and its inside is extremely neat, decent,
and commodious for the auditory.
St. Peter's Church, between the china manufac-
tory and the high road, near to the Diglis meadows,
was founded as early as 1280, being then parcel of
the abbey at Pershore. In the south aisle, is the
family vault of the Wyldes, long resident at the
coramandery, in this parish ; and it has been custo-
mary for this aisle to be kept in repair at their
expence.
St. Helen's Church, passing from the College-
yard to the High Street, is on the left hand ; and it
is worthy of notice for its antiquity, for Leland
says, " there be eight parish churches in the town,
whereof St. Ilellen is counted the most ancient, and
it was a prebend before King Edgar's days to the
church of Worcester, and Bloxhaiu in Worcester,
was mother." It contains a number of monuments.
St. Alban's Church, at the back of St. Helen's,
towards the river, contains nothing remarkable be-
yond its style of architecture.
St. Andrew's Church has an extremely beautiful
spire. This church is much admired, from its ancient
stylo, and from the handsome modern improvements
in its interior.
AH Saint's Church, on the left hand going down
from Broad Street to the bridge, was rebuilt in 1742.
Jt is now a handsome edifice in the modern style,
very spacious in consequence of the great extent of
<he parish, which is the most populous in the city, j
The ancient monuments have been preserved. The
* Green records a curious circumstance which occurred at
the commencement of its erection. As some of (lie workmen
were digging by the side of the foundation of the old church,
they met with a coflin much decayed, which, upon their
endeavouring to remove it, broke asunder; when they dis-
covered within it, some old fashioned toburco pipes, a small
three-handled black earthen cup, and a pewter chamber-pot, aJl
entire. It is generally conjectured, that this coffin also had con-
tained the corpse of some jolly old toper, at whose desire this
beloved apparatus had been buried with him.
f So:ive time about the year l/<57, a Mr. and Mrs. Glover,
M>ho then resided near to the church, had been so unfortunate
as to lose their two children in infancy, by the small-pox ; and
so nearly at the same time, that they were interred together in
the vault underneath. Their loss proved so great a shock to
the mother, that Mr. G. found it necessary to take every means
to prevent the occurence of the event, from reaching her mind.
He had for that purpose engaged the sexton to inform him of
Ihose days when funerals were to take place, that he might take
.Mrs. G. on a visit to some friend, distant enough from home to
jprevewt, not only her seeing the occasional processions, but
tower also deserves attention, being terminated with
battlements and pinnacles at the corners, and having
a musical set of ten bells.
St. Clement's Church, at the north-cast angle of
the corn -market, is a modern brick building with a
stone foundation ; with rustic corners, door and
window cases, and a pediment and cornice of the
same material. It was finished in October 1772.*
St. Swithin's Church, in the same neighbour-
hood, was rebuilt in 1736, on a neat, yet handsome,
scale.
St. Nicholas Church, near the hop-market, is a
neat modern edifice. The front is of the Doric
order, with six pilasters, the lower part rusticated,
and the roof ballustraded.f
Worcester has an Independent chapel, in the
street facing St. Helen's church ; Lady Hunting-
don's, between the town hall and the river ; Pres-
byterian, at the end of Angel Street ; Anabaptist,
near Lowesmere ; Catholic, nearly opposite to it,
and Quakers', between that and the Foregate Street.
Here were several houses of Grey and minor friars,
Dominicans, Penitents, &c. besides St. Oswald's,
and some others. There was also one called " Yeo-
geriecestre," said to have been founded by King
Edgar. The most remarkable, however, was the
commandery, established for the maintenance of two
chaplains, five poor men, and two poor women, under
the name of St. Wolstan's, having been endowed first
by that prelate, and granted at the Dissolution, by
Henry VIII. to Sir llichard Morysine, who ex-
changed it again will) that monarch ; when it became
part of the endowment of Christ Church in Oxford. J
It is remarkable for having been in the possession
of Cardinal Wolsey. The ancient part seems to
have been entirely timber framed ; the front towards
the street resembles those ruinous wooden buildings,
observed in some of our old country towns ; but
the most curious part is in the rear, entered by a
gateway, which seems once to have been the chapel.
The great hall, which served also for the refectory,
is the principal remnant of the old monastery, or
also hearing the tolling of the church bell. Twelve months
had thus passed, and no inconvenience had arisen, .hut (Sep-
tember 3, 1767) through the neglect of the si •: xton, who had
failed to give the previous notice, like an electric shock, the
death-bell smote her ear, and all a mother's griefs arose at once
in the bosom of this amiable woman. The husband endea*
voured to soothe her, -but in vain. She recollected it 10 have
been exactly twelve months since the same bdl had summoned
her infants to the grave ! She also recollected, that the door of
the vault in which they lay, was now open : but she concealed
that thought ; and assuming a composure that lulled the vigilance
of her husband, he left her to a momentary indulgence of her
melanchoJy reflections. She made her way to the house of
death, reached the coffin of her infants, tell, and almost instantly
expired !
J Commanderies were the same amongst the KnFghls Hos-
pitallers, as Preceptories amongst the Templars, and were those
societies of the knights, placed upon the estates in the country
under the controul of a commander, who were allowed propet
maintenance out of the revenues under their care, and accounted
for the remainder to the Grand Prior at London.
com
WORCESTERSHIRE.
527
commandery, and is of square dimensions. The
ancient door remains, and also a staircase. Much
of the painted glass, consisting of heads and
mottos, with birds, flowers, &e. remains in the hall
windows. It recently belonged to, or was occupied
by, a Quaker, in the leather-trade.
The Guildhall, on the west side of the High
Street, nearly opposite to the market-place, is a
modern building, begun in the early part of the last
century, and finished in 1723, from a design of Mr.
White, pupil of Sir Christopher Wren, and a native
of this city. It presents a noble front of brick,
ornamented with stone quoins ; with mouldings and
tablets to the windows, of the same material. Over
the line of front, is a coved cornice, beneath which
are fluted pilasters, supporting an arched pediment,
with the arms of the British Empire, supported by
two angels, and other pieces of sculpture, the whole
arranged as an antique classical trophy. The prin-
cipal entrance, after ascending some semicircular
steps, is ornamented with columns of the composite
order, highly enriched, and crowned with an indented
cornice, and open pediment, in which are the city
arms : Quarterly Sable, and Gules, a tower triple-
towered argent in the dexter-chief, on a canton of
the third, a fesse between 3 pears, 2 and 1 of the
first ; the motto " FJoreat semper fidelis Civitas ;"
May this loyal city always flourish. On each side
of this principal entrance are the statues of the two
Kings Charles, in niches ; and over it, is a statue
of Queen Anne. The whole of the front is appro-
priately surmounted with the five statues of Justice,
Peace, Plenty, Industry, and Chastisement. The
hall, is a large, light, and handsome apartment,
110 feet six inches long, twenty-five feet six inches
broad, and twenty-one feet high. The western side
is occupied by a staircase in the centre, and the two
courts of justice: the crown court on t!;? right, and
the nisi prius on the left : as the sessions, Both for
the county and city, are held here. The portraits in
this hall are those of Charles I. Queen Anne, Sir
John Paynton, and Thomas Winnington. Esq. of
the family of Stanford Court. The staircase, already
mentioned, leads to the council-chamber, in the
centre of one side of which, immediately facing the
entrance, is a portrait of our present monarch. In
this room the public balls and assemblies are held,
when it is lighted up by a series of twelve elegant
chandeliers, representing •shields of glass, in highly
ornamented gilt frames.
The Bridge, in ancient times, was " a royal
piece of worke, high and stronge, and had six
great arches of stone." The present new and ele-
gant one, however, consists but of five arches,
which are truly magnificent. About forty-five years
ago, a present of 3000/. was made by the then
members for the city, J. Walsh, and Henry Crab
Boulton, Esqrs. for the repair of the old, or to
assist in the erection of a new, bridge. The latter
having been determined on, the first stone was laid
,by the late Eqrl of Coventry, and the work pro-
ceeded so rapidly, that it was opened in 1781. The
diameter of the centre arch is forty-one feet. The
toll-houses at the west end are elegant domes, and
the embellishment of the centre arch are the head
of Sabrina, forming the northern keystone, whilst
that of Old Ocean is on the southern one. The
avenues on each side of the river have been laid
open to a commodious extent ; the quays have been
rendered extremely spacious, convenient, and easy
of access ; and a very handsome street (Bridge
Street) forms an opening to Broad Street, instead
of the narrow lane which formerly existed. The
total e#pence of executing this plan amounted to
upwards of 30,000/. which was borrowed under an act
of parliament, and paid by the regular tolls, which
were to continue on horses and carriages, until
repaid, and also on foot passengers, until the ori-
ginal debt should be reduced to 5000/. The debt
is now so far reduced, that the pedestrian tax has
been abolished.
The market-place, in the High Street, has been
opened since the year 1804. It was attended with
an expence of 5050/. to the corporation, not only in
its erection, but for other purposes. The building
is convenient, and highly ornamental, having a stone
front of handsome elevation, whilst the interior ar-
rangements are both clean and commodious.
The Hop Market, at the junction of the High
and Foregate Streets, consists of an extensive qua-
drangle, surrounded on three sides by lofty ranges
of large and regular warehouses.
The trade and commerce of Worcester are very
considerable, arising not only from the surplus pro-
ducts of the county and its own manufactures, but
from the great convenience resulting from its ex-
tended water carriage. The Society of Broad Cloth
makers of this city was incorporated in (he second
year of Ilrnry VIII. from which period, during a
century, the trade increased, insomuch that at one
lime 0000 persons were employed in it ; and above
tvwoe that number in carding, spinning, &c. in the
towns a;id villages in the vicinity. This manufac-
ture, however, as well as that of carpets, is extinct.
The principal mumifacture in which Worcester now
stands unrivalled, with the exception of Derby, is
that of Porcelain, conducted on two very extensive
establishments ; the one by Messrs. Flight, Barr,
and Flight, and the other by Messrs. Chamberlain
and Co. in Diglis. The demand is extensive, both
for home consumption and exportation. A stranger,
on personal application to any of the retail shops,
will meet with polite attention, and receive a card
of admission to the respective manufactories, where
persons attend to shew and explain every part of
the process. The painting rooms of each establish-
ment, containing each perhaps thirty artists, are
extremely curious, particularly in two parts of the
process : the first is that of copying a landscape on
a plane, and drawing its outline so correctly on a
cylinder, or perhaps a spherical body, that the pro-
portions of perspective are still accurately preserved;
the
WORCESTERSHIRE.
528
the second point is the preparation of the colours ; ,
for in laving them on, the visitor will observe that
the ttatl are very different from those ol the objec
copieS though aVecise resemblance in tho nicest
Sides will take place, after each article has been m
he fire • the gold too when laid on is comple
Stack "and th! blue of a deep cbocolate co our.*
The Glove Manufactory, conducted on a very .ex
—The distillery trade has been known to pay <
when their work is finished. This floor also has at
the ends, the matron's room, store rooms, Sep.
first floor contains the working rooms with be
rooms for the matron and steward; and the flooi
above is divided into two ranges of Apartments tor
the two sexes, of aged and infirm. I he cellars
under-ground are airy and convenient: and tbj
Souse U surrounded with yards for air •*"**+
a garden, a farm-yard, and ^^nSS^-^eT,
the management of twelve directors it '« calculated
to hold 150 persons, who are to be oi the eight
parishes within the city. Us erection was begun
k 1793, and was completed in 1794 ; the purcha se
of the ground (twenty-one acres) -"ouutrng to
2273/. and the cost of the edifice to WJ«fc
i The Infirmary, situated in an airy position stands
at the extreme northern limit, on the western sid* ol
the Forecate ; and forms a very handsome object.
I is entirely composed of brick ; the apartments
a e lofty andy well arranged; and all its offices are
U)on a judicious plan. The expense of it. erertjoD,
(b085/) was defrayed by voluntary contnbutions.
twus begun in 1767, and finished in three years,
and has since been in the receipt of al jout 58 n-
Ditients upon an average, with about 158 other
ffunuer cS of three phBy.ician. and three surgeons
-Berkeley's Hospital, established by Judge 1
ley for the reception' of twelve poor men stands
at the lower end of the Foregate, near the Hop
Market -St. Oswald's Hospital is a very old
Ement, supporting sixteen poor men and twelve
spherical or BN^ ti produce" complete tel
cined flint in a pondered state, the) ^ ar ecu rn^ ^ ^-^
flame, are said to be sin »e'r ^"^ be'en traced on the finest
is now laid on, after t he tig ires navt u coarser
:
i isrsja? siw»5SSs^*
•SSHSigi^H
wards. women
WORCESTERSHIRE.
women. — Moore's Hospital educates and maintains
ten blue coat boys of St. Martin's parish.— Watt's
Hospital is in Friar Street, for six poor men ; Nash's
in New Street, for eight men and two women ;
Trinity Hospital, founded by Queen Elizabeth, sup-
ports twenty-nine poor females ; Shewring's in the
Tytbing, takes care of six more ; Inglethorpe's, in
Foregate, supports eight men, and one woman ;
and several others on a smaller scale are in the
various parishes. The Lying-in Charity, for the
conducting of which the principal ladies form a
committee, is entirely supported by voluntary con-
tribution.— A free school has also been established
on the plan of Mr. Lancaster.
The County Gaol partly occupies the site of the
castle. The castle-yard is spacious ; and every
attention is paid to the comfort of the prisoners,
that is consistent with their security, and practica-
ble from the nature of the building.— The New
Gaol, recently built on an eminence at the north
end of the Foregate Street, overlooks the race-
ground. It is completely on the Howard plan, con-
sisting of a central house for the gaoler, with four
wings spreading from the centre, yet detached and
airy. The rooms are healthy, and warmed by flues ;
the cellars also clean and dry ; and the whole sur-
rounded by a wall, high enough for security, but
not injurious to a free circulation of the air. — The
City Gaol, an ancient building, in a very crowded
situation, on the east side of Friars Street, contains
many curious carvings, and exhibits a complete
specimen of the old monastic inslitutions. It was
indeed a house of Franciscan Friars as early as the
13th century, and was suppressed by Henry VIII.
who gave it to the bailiffs and citizens of Worcester.
This is also the city bridewell. The principal pub-
lic walk, or mall, is in Samsom Fields, for which
Worcester is indebted to the taste and liberality of
Sir Charles Trubshaw Withers. Kn». whn line i,.;,i
Sir Charles Trubshaw Withers, Knt. who has laid
open to the public a very agreeable line of footway ;
at the southern end of which, his mansion, a hand-
some, but not very modern, brick building is a
considerable ornament to this part of Worcester,
and the walks themselves consist of a gravelly way,
shaded on each side by high embowering elms, with
foot-paths leading to pleasant rambles in the sur-
rounding fields. The vicinity of this city affords
many other walks ; one is towards Perry-wood, the
spot where the heat of tUe battle took place between
the Royal and Oliverian troops. The banks of the
Severn, the Race-ground, and even the Foregate-
street, with several others, are at all times genteelly
frequented as promenades ; and in the summer
evenings a handsome imitation of the tea gardens
of the metropolis may be met with at the Porto
Bello, on the western side of the Severn, to the
north of the city.— The Theatre, not very large,
but extremely commodious, supports performances
four times a week. — There are assemblies at the
town-hall, under the protection of the nobility and
gentry; and private concerts at the Hop-Pole,
VOL. iv.— NO. 179.
principally supported by the inhabitants. A con-
stitution club was founded here at the time of the
rebellion in 1745 ; and one of a later date, a Wor-
cester and Worcestershire society, was formed in
honour of the Restoration. — The races draw here
the usual quantity of rank and beauty. Here is a
public subscription library, established in 1790,
under the guidance of a president and committee.
This city has been incorporated since the reign of
Henry 1. who granted ruany privileges ; but it wa«»
not until tin- loth of Henry III. that a charter was
granted, establishing its corporate power in the
hands of two bailiffs, instead of a constable who
had been their former magistrate. Through the
succeeding reins, privileges were granted at various
times; and in 1620, the jurisdiction of a mayor was
first established.
Amongst the distinguished natives of this city,
may be mentioned William of Worcester, a monk,
author of a curious itinerary ; Senatus Bravonius,
author of the legends of St. Oswald nnd St. Wol-
stan, &c. ; Florence of Worcester, another monk,
who has afforded much information, by his selections
from the Saxon Chronicles ; Richard Smith, the
greatest pillar of the Catholic church, in the 15th
century ; Edward Kelley, a juggling astrologer,
born in 1555 ; Thomas Weaver, a party writer of
some celebrity, in the 17th century; the Marquis
of Worcester, author of a work entitled " A Cen-
tury of the names and scantlings of such inventions
as at present I can call to mind to have tried and
perfected (my former notes being lost) ;" containing,
amongst many other strange ideas, the first princi-
ples of the steam engine, of the telegraph, and of
the velocipede, nick-named the " dandy-charger,"
at this time so much the rage ; John Lord Sotners,
counsel for the imprisoned bishops in the reign of
James II. ; Thomas White, the architect, builder of
the Guildhall, who died in 1738 ; Doctor John Wall,
an eminent physician, the chemical founder of the
Worcester china manufacture, and an excellent
painter; Dr. Thomas, remarkable for his skill in
county antiquities ; Dr. Hicks, dean of Worcester ;
Dr. Sandys ; Bishops Prideaux, Gauden, and Stil-
lingfleet ; Mr. John Dougharty, a celebrated mathe-
matical instructor, &c.
Few towns in England have suffered more fre-
quently from war, &c. than Worcester. In 1041,
the public spirit of the inhabitants brought on them
the displeasure of Hardicanute, for their refusal to
pay the danegelt, so that he ordered them all to be
put to the sword, and the city to be destroyed ;
which would have taken place, had not the inhabi-
tants fled to the island of Bevere, leaving their habi-
tationts a prey to the soldiery. The city was soon
rebuilt, and flourished under the Norman dynasty,
but was burnt by the troops of the Empress Maud,
during her contests with Stephen. In 1149, it was
taken and burnt by the opposite party ; but in 1 1 57,
Henry II. was crowned, the third time, in its cathe-
dral. In 1263, the barons under the Earl of Derby,
0 S and
530
WORCESTERSHIRE.
and tl.en in rebellion, took it after several assaults,
and plundered it with great violence, putting some
of the Jewish inhabitants to the sword. In 12faa,
the voun" and gallant Edward first raised here the
ttandanhf loyalty in defence of his father, Henry
III. ; and, after his accession, he made many vi ts
and held a parliament here—About the middle .
the 14th century, Worcester suffered much from
pestilence ; and in 1401, it was exposed to the
ravages of Owen Glendvvr's army. In 1 459, Henry
VI came to Worcester, after the battle of I
heath, and from hence sent out his offers of pardon ;
but Stow contradicts Holinshed in this par ticular,
and says, that he went to Gloucester ; in which he
is copied by Rapin. It appears, that after the ac-
cession of Henry VII. several of the citizens of
Worcester were beheaded at the High Cross ; and
it is evident, that the city must have been partial to
the deceased monarch, as there was a fine of 5
marks levied for its redemption In 1574, Eliza
beth, in her progresses, came to Worcester, and was
received with all the ceremonials of that time bhe
was met at Salt-lane in the evening by the baihl
and brethren in scarlet ; the rest of the twenty -four
in murrey ingrain gowns; an oration to welcome
her majesty was spoken. Over against St. Nicho as
church-yard she stopped her horse, and looked to-
wards the church ; the people then cried out
save your Grace !" She, with a heartiness that die
her honour, threw up her cap and said, 1 say
God save you all, my good people !' At the Gras
Cross there was a pageant In 1637, during • th
civil wars, this city suffered much from a dreadtu
pestilence, and in six months lost no less than on
thousand five hundred and fifty-one of its inhabi
tants. Soon after it became a Sequent object of
contention with the two parties. In 1642, says
Clarendon, within three or four days after the
king's removal from Nottingham, the Earl ot &S»KS,
with his whole army, removed from Northampton
and marched towards Worcester, previously to the
memorable battle in the vicinity of the city;— Not-
withstanding the marked loyalty of Worcester its
inhabitants have always shewn a strong constitu-
onal sense of liberty. When James II. in one of
is visits here, went to a Catholic chapel, to the
oor of which he was attended by the mayor and
orooration, his Majesty asked if they would not go
i with him; but the mayor (Thomas fehewring,
Esq.) answered, " I think we have attended your
Haiesty far enough already."
St John's Bedwardine, although on the western
ide of the Severn, may be said almost to constitute
a part of Worcester. It obtained its name ot Bed-
wardine," from being allotted to supply the table of
he monks of the cathedral with bread and provi-
sions ; and though not immediately within the juris
disction of the city, yet is so closely connected, that
on the Friday before Palm Sunday, the mayor and
aldermen, &c. walk as a corporate body through it,
attended by the sword-bearer, &c. that, being the
day of the annual fair, by virtue of custom as early
as the reign of Edward IV. Though so near the city,
it has allthe conveniences of the most rural village,
being situated on a rising ground, with a good air
and fine views. Its open airy street, of which it
principally consists, has many good houses, which,
with a few others in its vicinity, form very pleasing
country retreats for the inhabitants of Worcester.
On the banks of the river are many warehouses, &c.
connected with the navigation'; and its south-west-
ern extremity is called the township of Wyck, bor-
dering on that creek, which the river Teme forms at
its confluence with the Severn. The church con-
tains no monuments of note, and though a pleasing
specimen of the rural Gothic, is extremely uncouth
and irregular in its interior arrangements. Regi-
nald Bray, who rose to the station of Lord 1 rea-
surer, under Henry VII. was a native of this
village; he seems to have owed his rise partly to
his skill in architecture, and partly to his eminent
services in the cause of that monarch, and it is even
said, that the union which took place between the
heirs of the two roses, was in a great measure owing
to his politic advice, and active exertions. King s
College, Cambridge, the church at Malvern, and
many other places, owe much to his architectural
skill.
TABLE
WORCESTERSHIRE.
531
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533
YORKSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.
THE county of York, which is, by far, the
largest in England, is bounded, on the east
by the German Ocean ; on the south, by the river
II umber, which separates it from Lincolnshire, anc
by the counties of Nottingham and Derby ; on the
west, by a small part of Cheshire, by Lancashire,
and by Westmorland ; and, on the north, by West-
morland, and the county, or bishopric of Durham
It extends about 130 miles, in length, from east to
west ; and 90 miles in breadth, from north to south ;
having a circumference of 460 miles. Its superficial
contents have been estimated, at 3,698,380 acres ;
but the latest official returns make the amount 6,013
square miles or 3,848,320 acres.
The face of the county is, in spme parts, more
delightful than imagination can conceive. The in-
termixture of high mountains, beautiful valleys,
And gently-rising hills, with rocks and precipices
.of stupendous height, embellished with banging
woods and the finest cataracts ; all conspire to form
a vast variety of the most enchanting landscapes, in
which this county excels, not only every other ip
Britain, but, perhaps, any country of the same ex-
tent in the world. It is, however, very different
in its three respective ridings*— East, West, and,
North— each of which is as large as most counties.
Taking the Ridings in alphabetical order, the East
Riding is bounded on the north and the west, by
the little river Hertford and the Derwent, which
separate it from the North Riding as far as the vici-
nity of Stamford Bridge. An irregular line from the
Derwent to the Ouse, commencing about a mile
above Stamford Bridge, and joining the Ouse about
a mile below York, forms the remainder of the
boundary between the two Ridings. From York
the East Riding is bounded on the west and south-
west, by the Ouse, which separates it from the
West Riding ; on the south, it is bounded by the
Humber; and, on the east, by the German Ocean
— The contents of this Riding are given, in the
late official returns, at 821,520 acres.— This por-
* The won! Ruling, is a corruption of the Saxon, Miking,
which was applied to the third part of a county or province ;
and, though this division into Ridings is now peculiar to York-
VOL. IV. — NO. 179.
lion of the county, though it displays a great
variety of aspect, has less boldness of feature than
the other parts ; but, if it contain no romantic
scenery, it has some, that is beautifully picturesque,
and even magnificent, especially, where the sea or
*rk- Dm,!)er may haPPen to enter 'nto the prospect.
1 his Riding may be topographically considered as
subdivided into three districts : the Wolds, which
are lofty ranges of hills, extending almost from the
northern, to the southern, limits of the Riding : and
two level tracts, which lie to the east, and to the
west, of that elevated country. The level tract
along the coast, may be said to begin at Filey, the
northern limit of the East Riding. As far, however,
as Bndlmgton, the face of the country is diversified
with lofty swells ; and the wolds, in some places,
extend to the coast, which occasionally rises in cliffs,
XT i0^50! yards in PerPendicular height. The
North Wolds, considered as terminating in a line
drawn from Driffield to Pocklington, has been com-
puted to contain, from 300,000 to 400,000 acres.
The surface is generally divided into easy extensive
swells, and plains; with many intervening deep
dales or valleys. The third division, or western
level of the Riding, extends from the western foot
or the wolds, to the boundaries of the North and
West Rulings. It is generally flat, and unpictu-
resque.
In this Riding, the climate is various, being colder
on the eastern, and on the western side of the
wolds, which break the force of the cold and raw
winds from the German Sea. Near the coast, the
country is exposed to fogs from the sea and the
Humber. On the wolds, the air is much sharper.
1 he levels, being sheltered from the easterly winds
enjoy a milder climate.
The North Riding of the county is bounded, on
the north, by the river Tees, which separates it from
the county of Durham ; on the east and north-east,
>y the German Ocean ; on the south-east by the
Last Ruling ; on the south by the Ainsty of York,
hire, it was used, before the Conquest, with respect to several
)ther counties in the north of England.
6 T
634
YORKSHIRE.
and the West Riding ; and on the west, by the
county of Westmorland. Its length, from east to
west, is 83 miles ; and, its breadth, from north to
south, 38 miles. Tuke, the agricultural writer,
computes its contents at 1,311,187 acres; of which,
he says, about 442,565 are uncultivated; the remain-
ing 808,622, comprising the enclosed lands, open
fields, woods, and roads. The official returns state
the number of square acres, at 1,351,680.— The
climate, soil, and surface, of this Riding are vari-
ous : the natural consequence of the different ele-
vation of various parts of the country, and other
circumstances. In the vale of York, the air is
mild and temperate, except near the moors, where
the influence of the winds, from those mountainous
regions, is sometimes severely felt. The climate of
the western moorlands is colder, than that of the
eastern. The face of the country, along the coast,
from Scarborough to Cleveland, is hilly and bold ;
the cliff being generally from 60 or 70 to 150 feet
high. From the cliff', the country rises in most
places very rapidly to the height of 300 or 400
feet ; and, a little farther inland, successive hills,
rising one above another, form the elevated tract of
the moorlands. The eastern moorlands, occupying
a space of about 30 miles in length, from east to
west, by 15 in breadth from north to south, are
penetrated by numerous beautiful, and fertile dales.
In the western end of these moorlands, the culti-
vated dales are also rather extensive. The interior
of the moorlands presents a bleak and dreary aspect,
destitute of wood.
The West Riding is bounded, on the east, by the
Ainsty and the river Ouse ; on the north, by the
North Riding ; on the west, by Lancashire ; and,
on the south, by Cheshire, Derbyshire, and Notting-
hamshire. It is about 95 miles, in length, from
east to west ; and 48 miles in breadth, from north
to south. It has been estimated to contain 1,568,000
acres ; but, according to the official returns, the
number is 1,6*5,120. — This Riding may be divided
into three large districts, gradually varying from a
level and marshy, to a rocky and mountainous re-
gion. The flat and marshy part of the Riding lies
on the eastern side, along the banks of the Ouse,
and extends to the westward ; the middle part, as
far to the westward, as Sheffield, Bradford, and
Oilcy, rises gradually into hills, and is beautifully
varieg'ited ; and, further to the west, the surface
becomes rugged and mountainous. Amongst the
hilly and mountainous tracts of this Riding, are
jniiiiy romantic valleys, and much beautiful and
sublime scenery. — The climate here is as various as
the surface. In the eastern parts, it resembles that
of the East Riding, and damps and fogs are some-
what prevalent. In the middle district, the air is
sharper, clearer, and more salubrious. In the
western parts, the climate is cold, tempestuous, and
rainy.
SOIL.] — Tuke, upon whose authority we found
our description of the soiis ot the North Riding
divides that district into the following heads ; th«
Coast, Cleveland, the Vale of York, Rydale, the
Eastern, and the Western Moorlands. The first,
comprising the lands near the coast, is hilly and
bold, cold and bleak, composed of a brownish clay
soil, a clayey loam, a loam upon strong clay, a
lightish soil upon alum shale, loam upon free-stone ;
and, in some valleys, west of Whitby, a deep rich
loam : here clay and loam predominate. The fer-
tile Cleveland, which lies on the north-west side of
the eastern moors, is divided from them by a range
of cliffs. Lightly featured with hills, there are few
fields which have not a gentle slope. The soil is a
fertile clay, some clayey loam, a fine red sand ; and,
near the moors, a deep rich loam. That part of
the Vale of York, which also composes a part of the
North Riding, has the moorlands on each side ; ex-
cept whore it opens into Cleveland, or is separated
from Ryeland by the Uowardian hills. Its varieties
are too numerous and too minutely defined to be
separately characterized. It may be observed
briefly, that the level land, near the Tees, is a rich
gravelly loam ; that, next in order, westward, is
some cold thin clay, with gravel and clay loam j
afterwards a strong and fertile, but in some places
cold and springy, soil, with some fine hazel loam ;
further westward, a fine gravlley soil, with a con-
siderable quantity of clay, and some peat ; that, in
the same longitude, but southward, a good gravelly
soil prevails with gravelly clay, a good sandy loam,
and some peat ; and that the whole remaining coun-
try to tbe West Riding is a turnip soil of various
qualities, consisting of a loamy soil, upon limestone ;
a gravelly loam, and a rich hazel loam ; with the ex-
ception of some patches of swampy ground and
cold clay land. On each bank of the river Swale,
between that river and the W-ske, and southward
from Scorton and Danby Wiske, to the junction of
the Ure and the Swale, is a very fertile sail, con-
sisting of rich gravelly loam, some fine sand, and a
good clay ; of which the country several miles north-
ward from Pick Hill is chiefly composed. Never-
theless, there are some patches of cold clay soil, as
well as a little peat, scattered, here and there,
through the whole of this division of this district.
On the banks of the Swale are many rich grazing
grounds. Near Thirsk, northward, is some strong,
rich loamy land ; and, north-westward, is a vein of
sandy soil, four or five milt's broad, which runs be-
tween the rivers Swale, and Ure, within ten miles
of York, whence it extends to the river Derwent.
About Skipton and Skelton fine, sandy loam pre-
vails ; but on each side of York, southward from tin:
sandy tract, as far as the boundary of the East
Riding, is a good strong clay or loam. The soil
of the Howardian hills is, mostly, a good strong
loam upon a clay, mixed with pebbles. It is thin
and poor about Grilling and towards Barnsley ; in
some places it is nearly a grit ; in others, a lime-
stone rock ; but on the southern side, a good clay
and a sandy loam predominate. Rydale, with the
East
YORKSHIRE.
East and West Marishes, form one vale, the sur-
face of which is, for the most part, flat, and liable
to be flooded. This level is, however, broken by
several insulated swells of considerable extent and
elevation. The soil on the northern side is a hazel
loam, upon a clay bottom ; or a deep warp upon
gravel. Towards the east we meet with a sandy
loam upon gravel ; !mt approaching the moors the
9<>il becomes less fertile and more stiff. The soil of
the marishes is principally clay, which is both low
and wet. — The Eastern Moorlands are a wild tract
of mountainous country, 30 miles long, and 15
broad ; penetrated by a number of cultivated and
fertile dales. The uppermost stratum of some of
the highest hills is freestone ; of others, peat. Among
the old inclosures, are some considerable tracts of
loam and sandy soil ; but the underlayer is invaria-
bly freestone. The cultivated dales of this district
arc extensive ; some containing from 5,000 to 10,000
acres ; others, as Eskdale and Bilsdalr., much more.
They partake, more or loss, of the following Soils :
a black moorish earth upon a clay ; a loam upon a
clay ; sand intermixed with gritstones, upon a shale ;
or a light loam upon gritstone ; and, in the neigh-
bourhood of Hackness, of a stiff loam upon lime-
stone, a deep sand upon whinsione, and a light loam
upon gravel or free-stone. The Western Moorlands,
•which form part of the long range of mountains that
extend from Staffordshire to Cumberland, differ from
the eastern in soil and productions. The former is,
in the bottoms, a fine stiff loam upon hard, blue
limestone ; on both banks of the Ure a rich loamy
gravel ; and, in ascending the heights, clay or peat.
The produce, instead of black ling, is a fine sweet
grass, with extensive tracts of bent ; some, indeed,
produce ling, but it is generally mixed with a
large proportion of grass, bent, or rushes. The
hills, without exception, consist of limestone.
Many of the dales which intersect these moors are
very fertile, and even beautiful. Wensleydale
consists of rich grazing grounds, through which
the river Ure takes a serpentine course, forming,
in many places, romantic cascades. Swaledale,
the next in extent, is inferior in beauty, though not
in fertility, to Wenslejd ile. Each of these has
several adjacent vales, which may be supposed to
form a part of it ; and the smaller dales are very
numerous.
Much of the East Riding is comprised under the
designation of the Wolds : a tract of high land, the
boundary line of which passes throng Filey, Wil-
lerby, Sherburn, West Heslerton, Setterington,
Mallon, Minithorpe, Leavening, Bishop Wilton,
Pocklington, Market Weighton, South Cave, Fer-
riby, Kirk Ella, Beverley, Bainton, Driffield, Kil-
liam, and Bridlington : making a length of 37
miles ; an average breadth of 13 ; and an area,
which has been variously estimated— from 300,000
to 400,000 acres. The approach to this district,
on every side, is by a considerable ascent. — The
features of this district are easy swells from the
generally elevated level ; with many intervening
deep dales or valleys. The soil is commonly a free
and rather light loam, with a mixture of chalky
gravel. This, in some parts, is very shallow ; others
contain a more deep and fertile loam, or a light
and sandy mixture upon a chalk rock. The sub-
stratum is chalk, to a great depth. Like all other
elevated situations on the eastern coast, these
wolds are much exposed to the easterly winds,
which, blowing from the sea in the spring, are com-
monly of long duration, and greatly check vegeta-
tion. This observation is peculiarly applicable here,
to the coast^ between Bridlington and Filey ; south-
ward from the former place to Spurn Head, the
shore is generally low. — The latter district may be
made a second division in our description ; the soils
of which are gravel, hazel earth, strong loam, and
clay, of which some parts are coarse and thin,
with an open bottom ; but the western edge is a fen,
which extends four miles in breadth, and twenty in
length from the Humber, northward. The country
which lies between Hull and Spurn Head is flat ;
and the soil is for the most part a strong warp, with
a mixture of sand. Between the wolds and the
Ouse, Hull and the Humber, the soil consists of
strong clay, free, sandy loam ; and, on the sides of
both rivers, a considerable quantity of warp land.
The district, enclosed by the wolds and the Ouse,
with that which extends to Bubwith, on each side
of the Derwent, is flat ; the soil contains every kind
of loam ; some with an open springy bottom : it is
subject to inundation ; and a considerable part is
well- wooded. Lastly, the narrow slip at the foot
of the wolds, extending along the rivers Hertford
and Uerwent, from Filey to Malton, is generally a
light sand, with several varieties : as, strong loam ;
gravelly, free, and clay loams. Like the others it
has a springy bottom, and is liable to be flooded. If,
in the West Riding, there are as many varieties of
soil as in the other districts of this county, they are
not so certainly defined : it may be said, generally,
that in the eastern parts clay and loam prepon-
derate, but are intermixed with sand and peat ;
that, in the middle districts, the soil is a good loam
upon lime-stone ; and that the same kind of soil,
varied with tracts of moor, prevails to I he western
extremities of the Riding. The most marked dis-
tinctions in this division are the modes of occupa-
tion and tillage, so different from the rest.
AGRICULTURE.] — In the vale of York, one third,
of the land in tillage, and the remainder in grass, is
the common proportion. On part of the Howardian
hills, and thence to Thirsk, not more than one fourth
is arable ; on the remainder of these eminences,
nearly one half. Rydale, the marishes, and the
northern part of the coast, have about one third in
tillage ; the southern part of the coast has onc-
I fourth ; and Cleveland about one half. In the dales
of the Eastern Moors, not more than one-fifth is
cultivated ; and,- in those of the Western Moors,
much less. The most general course of crops on .
YORKSHIRE.
strong land in this division is : fallow, wheat, oats ;
occasionally, beans, peas, or both, take the place of
oats ; and, not far from Easingwold on the west,
fallow, wheat, or peas and beans, and oats, consti-
tute the common course on strong land. On gravelly
and loamy soils, the courses are various : sometimes
turnips, barley, clover, or white peas, wheat, often
barley and turnips alternately ; near Catterick,
barley, clover and turnips ; and near Bedale, tur-
nips, wheat, beans, and turnips. Wheat is the
staple produce of Cleveland ; barley is not much
cultivated in the North Riding ; nor rye, except on
poor and sandy soils. Rydale is remarkable for
the culture of oats, the crops of which are abundant,
and their quality is excellent. In the southern part
of the vale of York, on the eastern part of the
Howardian hills, and in Rydale, the harvest gene-
rally begins about the second week in August : in
the northern part of the vale, the west end of the
Howardian hills, in Cleveland, and in the Marishes,
towards the end of that month ; on the coast, and
in the dales of the moorlands, about the beginning
of September ; or often in October. In Cleveland,
and in the northern part of the vale of York, oats and
other grain, were, till a few years since, cut with the
sickle ; but this practice is now yielding to the use
of the scythe. Of the grass grounds, it is observed,
that they are greatly neglected ; and that hay-
making is ill-managed in every part of the Riding,
except in the dales of the Western Moorlands. As
a manure, lime is generally used ; but it is seldom
laid upon grass land, except in composts. Kelp
ashes are almost engrossed by the proprietors of
the alum works on the coast ; but they are some-
times used on grass land ; and discover great excel-
lence, as employed. Turf ashes are used near the
coast ; and composts of lime, and the rich earth of
ditches.
In few districts of England have more extensive
improvements been made, or is agriculture conduct-
ed on a more extensive scale, than in the East
Riding of Yorkshire. On the wolds, half a century
ago, wheat was unknown ; barley and oats were the
only kind of grain that were produced ; and of the
former was made all the bread used by the inha-
bitants. At present the valleys and the hills wave
with rich crops of wheat ; and neither servants nor
labourers will eat barley bread. The mode of til-
lage which has produced these admirable results is
paring and burning, followed by a crop of turnips ;
then of oats, or barley and seeds ; and, after a
fallow, of wheat. In the Carrs, the Holderness
marshes, and Sunk Island, rape is generally sown
for the first crop. Nor are these improvements con-
fined to the wolds : in the low grounds which adjoin
the river Hill, extensive tracts of land, which were
formerly flooded a great part of the year, and pro-
duced scarcely any thing but rushes and a little
coarse grass, are now covered with abundant crops
of grain ; and the value of the soil has been in-
creased tenfold. 'As may be expected from the
variety of soils in this district of Yorkshire, th«
economy of the agriculturist is almost infinitely
various : in the strong and flat lands most farmers
summer-fallow for wheat, and afterwards sow beans
or oats ; and several, not satisfied with two crops,
take a third. Others summer-fallow for oats, bar-
ley, or beans ; after one of which, they sow wheat
and barley, or oats ; some, particularly upon the
warp lands, after a winter and spring-fallow, plant
potatoes, which are succeeded by a crop of wheat :
some take even two crops after them. Some winter
and spring-fallow for flax, others sow their fallows
with rape for seed, or to be eaten off in autumn ;
after which wheat, and sometimes also oats, are
sown, and one or two crops are taken. In some
of the common fields, one half lies fallow each year ;
and is common for the sheep and cattle of the
township ; while the other half is sown ; so that
there is but one crop to a fallow. The most usual
course on lands which are lighter and more easily
worked is : 1. Turnips ; 2. Barley with Seeds';
3. 4. Grass ; 5. Wheat ; and often the last crop
is repeated. The greater part of the wold town-
ships which remain open, have a large quantity of
outfield in ley -land : that is, land from which they
take a crop of corn every third, fourth, fifth, or
sixth year, according to the custom of the town-
ship. After this it is left without manure of fallow ;
and on this grass ley the sheep are pastured, while
they are folded on the fallow. The manures in com-
mon use are fold-yard and stable-dung ; a large
quantity of which is conveyed from Hull by water.
There are a few peculiarities to be observed of the
agricultural implements : the plough, most gene-
rally used is the Rotterham or Dutch ; by some
Proud's trenching or double plough. The drill is
but little used. Almost every sort of harrow or
roller is to be found ; the lighter kinds generally on
the wolds. The waggons in the greatest part of
the district are drawn by two or four horses, and
are generally heavy ; with low fore wheels that lock
under the body. The breast-spade, employed in
draining, is also used here with advantage in clean-
ing furrows, and cutting small grips or top drains
on flat lands. We have already observed, that, in
the West Riding, the mode of occupation as well
as of tillage, differs from the ceconomy of the other
divisions. This distinction arises from the peculiar
habits of the population. From Ripley to the
western extremity of the Riding, nearly the whole
of the best soil is kept under the grazing system,
while corn is raised, on the inferior or moorish soils.
In the immediate vicinage of manufacturing towns,
the lands are held by persons, who do not consider
tin's occupation as a business ; but as a matter of
convenience. The division of the Riding which may
be designated the corn district, lies eastward from
Ripley, Leeds, Wakefield, Barnsley and Rother-
ham, as far as the banks of the Ouse. Of this,
about Boroughbridge, Wetherby, Selby, &c. one
| half is arable ; near Pontelract, Barnsley, and Ro-
1 therham,
YORKSHIRE.
537
tlierham, two thirds ; and eastward from Doncaster,
a still larger proportion. The common fields of
the West Hiding are found chiefly in the last men-
tioned district ; but they are most numerous in that
part of it which lies eastward from the great north
road. — A fifth division of our survey is the moors :
those tracts which occupy the western end of the
Riding, and constitute, perhaps, one-eighth of its
whole surface. Much of them is common ; but the
ratio is diminished ; and will, probably, in a short
timer no longer exist. In the West Riding a larger
quantity of wheat is produced, than of 'any other
corn. This is of the red kind ; and is sown after
fallow, turnips, or clover ; but seldom after peas
or beans. Rye is little cultivated ; and barley, only
in small quantities. Next to wheat, oats, which
constitute the principal article of diet in the west,
receive the greatest share of attention. The crops
of peas and beans are not considerable ; and, in
sowing them, the broadcast, not the drill, system is
employed. Some tares and vetches are sown for
horse food. The system of turnip husbandry, im-
perfectly conducted, prevails over much of the
Riding. Near the Ouse and the Aire potntoes are
raised, of which large quantities are sent to London.
Happily also for inhabitants of all classes, flax is
cultivated to a considerable extent. The attention
which this production requires in its growth is
extreme ; and its preparation for market is also a
work of considerable labour. Rape is not raised,
except in the eastern parts ; and there, also, woad,
commonly sown among red clover, is partially cul-
tivated. In the West Riding, draining is much
attended to ; and irrigation is not neglected. Here,
also, as in the other districts, paring and burning
are practised. All sorts of manure are in use ; a
peculiar kind seems to be bones, which are carefully
collected and broken in a mill. Warping, or the
practice of inundating lands, is one of the greatest
improvements, that have been hitherto discovered
•here. 'By this means, the worst lands may be, and
have been, covered with a soil of the richest qua-
lity— mud and salts deposited by the ebbing of the
tide.
TENURES, &c.] — "In the northern part of the
•vale of York," says Tuke, " the rental of farms is
generally from one hundred to three hundred
pounds per annum ; of very few, perhaps, as low
as forty pounds, and some as high as six hundred
pounds ; but farther to the southward, there is a
larger proportion of small farms, some of which
are as low as twenty pounds, with others as high as
two hundred pounils. On the Howardian hills the
generality of farms are under one hundred pounds ;
very few are so high as two hundred pounds. In
.Rydiile are many farms of two hundred pounds,
and several from that to eight hundred pounds, per
annum, or upwards ; nevertheless the greater pro-
portion of it is held in farms of about or below one
hundred pounds, i'n the Marislies they may gene-
rally be stated at from fifty to one hundred and
VOL. IT.— NO. 179. "
fifty pounds per annum, few so high as two hundred
pounds. In both the eastern and western moorlands
the farms are small, very few above one hundred
pounds per annum, but generally from five to forty
pounds per annum. Wherever there are towns or
large villages, a greater proportion of small farms are
to be met with. Most of the farms are let from
year to year, and leases are unusual. Few parts
of England, however, can exhibit a tenantry longer
established on their farms. On the Wolds, and in
the southern parts of Holderncss, the farms are gene-
rally large, from two or three hundred to above a
thousand pounds rent per annum, and small farms
are rarely to be found. Their most frequent occur-
rence is in the levels, on the western side of the
Wolds, towards York. The rents vary from ten or
fifteen shillings to four or five pounds per acre,
according to the nature of the soil, and the advan-
tages of the situation.
CATTLE.] — The breeds of cattle, prevalent in the
respective districts of Yorkshire, are less distinct
in the present day than formerly. It is generally-
believed that the cattle known by the name of the
Tees-water breed, found chiefly in the Vale of York
and Cleveland, are the largest in England. They
are described, as of a light red, or black and white,
colour; with straight backs, clean throats, a fine
neck, a carcass full and round, and long quarters.
They stand rather high on their legs, handle kindly,
are light in bone, and have a fine coat with a thin
hide. Those of the western moorlands are small :
in the eastern, they are not so large as the Tees-
water, but are clear and fine in the bone, and very
free feeders. In Rydale, the Marish.es, and on the
Howardian hills, the cattle bred, are many in num-
ber, and tin quality inferior to none but the Tees-
water. A great number of cattle, as well ns of
horses, are bred, in almost every part of the East
Riding. They are generally of the short-horned
kind ; and so bulky as often to weigli from GO to 100
stone (long weight). The eastern part of the Riding
produces those of the greatest size. — The cattle of
the West Riding may be classed under four heads :
the short-horned, in the eastern part ; the long-
horned, or Craven, at the western extremity ; the
third, a cross of these two, which prevails in, and
near, Nidderdale ; and, finally, immense numbers of
Scotch cattle, which having" been fed one or two
years, are sold to the butchers. — The breeding of
sheep, like the other provinces of farming, has, of
late years, been considerably meliorated. Those of
the old stock in Cleveland and the Vale of York are
large, coarse-boned, slow feeders, with dry and harsh
wool. The improved breed, which extends between
the Swale and the Western Moorlands, is as larg-e
as the old ; and produces more and firmer wool.
The sheep of the moors are horned ; have grey face's
and necks ; and are covered with a course and open
wool. Those of Rydale, the Marishes, and I he
Howardian hills, have much of the Lincolnshire
blood; having been improved by the introduction
6 v f
038
YORKSHIRE.
of that, and the Dishley, breed. — On the Wolds a
breed of sheep is fed, which-may be described gene-
rally as of the long woolled kind : a cross of the
old "wold, the Lincolnshire, and the Leicestershire;
though some still retain a smaller kind, with finer
and shorter wool : a consequence induced probably
by scantiness of pasture. The fleeces of the former
sort weigh from eight to ten pounds ; of the latter,
from four to six. Mairy are driven to the manufac-
turing district of the West. Riding to be fattened on
turnips. The breeds ol the West Riding have been
so often crossed as to confound distinctions. The
native breed, probably, is one, found on the western
moors : horned, light in the fore-quarter, hardy, and
good thrivers. The Craven sheep are larger, but
horned also, with black faces and long legs. The
sheep of the wastes are the most miserable-looking
creatures in existence. Upon the whole we may
observe that of late years, several gentlemen have
considerably improved this valuable part of their
stock, by introducing a mixture of the Leicester-
shire breed. — Yorkshire has long been famed for its
horses ; and the North Riding is particularly dis-
tinguished for its breed. The Cleveland, being clean-
made, strong, and active, are well adapted as draught
horses ; while those of the Vale ef York are con-
sidered the most valuable for the saddle. Rydale
and the Parishes produce a great number, both for
the saddle and the coach ; and, both in the eastern
and western moorlands, horses constitute a consider-
able part of the stock. — The horses of the East
Riding are generally stout, of the light or bay kind,
and not inferior to any other in Yorkshire. In
breeding them, great attention is directed to the
stallion ; and, although a considerable degree of
racing blood lias been introduced, yet both the
largest coach, and the smallest saddle-horses are
produced. The activity and quick walking of this
breed give them a decided superiority in draught,
particularly of the plough, over the black breed ;
* Acer Pseudplatanus. The Greater Maple, or Syca-
more Tree; in hedges : not uncommon.
Acrostichum septentrionale. Forked, or Horned Fern ; on
Ingleborough mountain.
Actca spicuta. Herb Christopher, or Baneherries ; in a glen
called Whitfell Gill, or Arthur Foss, near
Askrig, and elsewhere.
Agaricus piptratus. Pepper Agaric ; in Martin wood, near
Craven.
Airaaquaticafrdistans. A variety of Water Hair Grass ; in
sandy places.
montana. Mountain Hair Grass ; on sandy heaths.
Akltemilla vulgaris. Common Ladies' Mantle} in pastures,
not uncommon.
Alisma ranunculoides. Lesser Water Plantain ; in Giggles-
wick Tarn, plentifully.
Allium arenarium. Broad-leaved Mountain Garlic ; in a
pasture at the back of the Dun horse, at
Ingleton.
..• carinatum. Mountain Garlic ; among rocks at Girling
Trough, near Couistone, Kilnsay, and else-
*bere.
which is, however, excellent for drawing heavy
waggons. In the West Riding there are few horses
bred, except in the eastern part. There and in the
middle district they are of good size, and strong
enough for all purposes of husbandry. In the
western parts, where none are bred for sale, they
are small but hardy, and capable of enduring great
fatigue. In all, they are well enough suited to the
purposes for which they are used. — In the North
Riding, no oxen are used for draught ; except in
Cleveland and the Eastern Moorlands ; in the East
Riding, a considerable number are employed ; but
in the West Hiding none are wrought, unless upon
the farms of landed proprietors.
WOODS, WASTE LANDS, &,c.] — Considering the
great extent of the North Riding, the proportion
of wood-land is small, not exceeding 25,000 acres ;
and except on the estates of C. S. Duncombe, Esq.
and the Earl of Carlisle, full-grown timber is ex-
tremely scarce. There is good reason to suppose,
that large tracts of this district, especially the
moorlands, were once covered with wood, of which
not a trace now remains, — Some proprietors in the
Ivtst Riding, judging rightly of the best mode of
improving land, have planted extensive tracts with
spruce fir, larch, beech, and ash, which promise
other results than that of profit : as softening the
rigours of the climate ; and adding beauty to scenes
already picturesque. — The quantity of oak and ash
wood in the West Riding, is very considerable. la
the neighbourhood of Sheffield, the Duke of Nor-
folk possesses 1500 acres of woodland. — Of the
waste lands, which compose, it is believed, a sixth
of the Riding, one half are unimprovable, except
by planting ; yet these are much neglected, although
fully as capable of melioration as some parts of the
E. Riding, which have been successfully attempted.
PLANTS.] — An enumeration of the remarkable
plants found in Yorkshire, will be found in the
note below.*
- MINERALS,
Anchusa sempcrvirens. Evergreen Alkanet ; in the lanes about
Giggleswick, and in the road between Settle
and Ingleborough.
Andromeda polifolia. Marsh Cistus, or Wild Rosemary ; on
turfy bogs, near Ingleborough, and elsewhere.
Anemone Puhutilla. Pasque Flower ; in mountainous pas-
tures, near Pontefract, and elsewhere.
Anthoceros punctatus. Spotted Anthoceros; in shady places
in a lane, a mile from Heptonstal.
Aquilegia alpina. Mountain Columbine; on Ingleborough.
• vulgaris. Columbines; near Whitwell.
Arenaria verna. Mountain duckweed ; on the mountains
about Settle, and elsewhere.
Asplenium Ruta muraria. Wall Rue, or White Maiden Hair ;
on the rocks about Settle, and elsewhere.
Scololiendrium. Harts' tongue ; on mountains.
— Tricnomanes. Common Maiden Hair ; on stone
walls and rocks, common.
viride. Green Maiden Hair ; on wet rock.
Astragalus arenarius. Purple Mountain Milk-wort ; in
sandy pastures and meadows about Doncaster,
and elsewhere.
AthamanU,
YORKSHIRE.
539
MINERALS, FOSSILS, &c.] — The North and East
Hillings possess abundance of stone fit for building;
and in both lime-stone is found in great plenty. The
Athamanta Meum. Common Spingle Meum Bald, or Bawd
Money ; on the banks of a moist meadow, at
Sramonden.
Atropa Belladonna. Deadly Nightshade; in Haslewood, and
at Knaresborough, plentifully.
Brontus giganteus. Tall Brome Grass ; under the stone walls,
in the road from Settle to Griggleswick, and
elsewhere.
Sromus remoralis. Hairy-stalked Brome Grass ; in woods
and hedges.
Bryum oestivum. Spring Bryum ; on Ingleborough, and else-
where.
Bryum eilinctorium. Extinguisher Bryum ; "1
paludosum. Dwarf Bryum ; on sandy I on Ingle-
and turfy bogs. ^-borough, and
rigidum. Riaid Bryum; elsewhere.
sericeum. Silky Bryum ; )
Byssus saratili*. Rock Byssus ; on chalky rocks and stones.
Campanula Itederacea. Ivy-leaved Bell-flower ; near Halifax,
and about Sheffield.
• hybrida. Lesser Venus Looking Glass, or Codded
Corn Violet ; in corn fields.
latifolia. Giant Throatwort, or Canterbury-bells ;
near Settle, and elsewhere.
Cardamine impatient. Impatient Ladies' Smock; on Gig-
gleswick Scar, and elsewhere.
Cardaut helinoides. Melancholy Thistle ; in fields near Gig-
gleswick, in Skirrith wood, and elsewhere.
Caret distant. Loose Carex ; on boggy grounds, not uncom-
mon.
• limosa. Brown Carex ; on turfy bogs.
— — pulicari*. Flea Carex ; on Ingleborough, and else-
where.
— - inflata Bottle Carex ; on bogs.
— — vesicaria. Bladder Carex ; on the sides of ditches, not
uncommon.
Carum Carvi. Carraways ; in meadows and pastures about
Hull, plentifully.
Chara fieiilis. Smooth Chara ; in a bog at Knaresborough.
hispida. Prickly Chara ; in ditches and lakes.
Chryiosplenium alternifolium. Alternate-leaved Golden Sax-
ifrage; on bogs, near Bmujley, and elsewhere.
1 oppositifolium. Round-leaved Golden Saxi-
frage ; on banks of rivulets : on the north side
ol fngleborough.
Circuta virosa. Long-leaved Water Hemlock ; in watery
places, at Newsham Car, near Thirsk.
Cineraria palustris. Jagged-leaved Fleabane ; near the east
end of Shirly Pool, near Rushy moor.
Cochlearia afficinatis 0 Granlandica. A variety of common
Scurvy Grass ; by the river Kibble, near Settle
am! elsewhere.
Cokkicum. autumnale. Meadow Saffron ; in a pasture, close
by Milseur Lush, near Kilnsay, and else*
where.
Comarum palustre. Marsh Cinquefoil ; in Giggleswick Tarn,
near Settle, and elsewhere.
Conferva tfgagropila. Globe Conferva, or Moor Balls ; in
Wallen fen moor, 12 miles west of Hull, a
lake of 1 or 200 acres, on a large common,
subject to be overflowed by salt water from the
H umber. This lake has been drained since
these vegetable balls were described in Phil.
Trans. XLVI1. p. 498.
Conferva nigra. Black Conferva ; on the sea shore.
Conferva fulva. Short Conferva ; 1 ,
paratitica. Winged Confer,* ; \ on the shore.
former district abounds with coal and alum. The
coal is, indeed, of but ordinary quality, and thin in
seam ; but the alum is of great thickness and inex-
haustible
Convallaria maialis. Lilly Convally, or May Lily ; on Inple--
borough, and elsewhere.
— — — — multifioru. Solomon's Seal ; in Lord Faucon-
berg's woods, at Newhy.
polyg/jiiatum. Sweet Solomon's Seal ; in thfr
rocky part of Sykeswood, near Ingteton, and
elsewhere.
Cornus herbacen. Dwarf Honey Suckle ;: on Pickering moor,
and near Doncaster.
Cotyledon lutea Yellow Navel-wort ; on walls and wet rocks
in the east part of Yorkshire.
Cratxgus Aria. White BeanUree ; in woods.
Cyaosurus cxruleus. Blue Dog's-tail Grass ; on the rocks,.
near Settle, and elsewhere.
Cypripedium Catceolus. Ladies' Slipper ; in Helks wood,
near Ingleton, and in the neighbourhood of
Kilnsay.
Draba muralii. Speedwell-leaved Whitlow Grass, on Amber
Scar, near Arnclilf, in Tittendale ; and iu
Mai ham Cove.
— —- incana. Wreathed-podded Whitlow Grass, on rocks
about Settle, and elsewhere.
Dryas octopetala. Mountain Dryas ; on Arn Cliff Cloud, a
mountain near Arn Clilf, in LiUendale, near
Kilnsay.
Empetrum nigrum. Crow, or Crakeberries ; on mountains ;
on the sides of Ingleborouh, plentifully.
Epilobium angustifolium. Kosc-bay Willow-herb ; in Grass.
wood, near Kilnsay ; among the rocks and
meadows near Sheffield, and elsewhere.
Eriophorum vaginatum. Single- headed Cotton Grass ; on peat
bogs, frequent ; in the ascent to Ingleborough.
Eryngium campestre. Common Eryngo ; in sea meadows, at
Millington.
Festuca elatior. Tall Fescue Grass ; on the sides of the river
Ribble, near Settle, plentifully.
•• ovinu /3 vivipara. Viviparous Sheep's Fescue Grass ;
on the bogs, near the summits of Ingleborough.
Fucus confervoides. Rough Fucus ;) on submarine rocks
dentntus. Dentated Fucus ; > and stones,
Jibrosus. Fibrous Fucns ; ) at Scarborough.
filum. Thread Fucus ; on the shore, at Whitley.
• muscoides. Thorny Fucus ;
- ovalis. Ovate Fucus;
in the sea,
at
Scarborough.
pinnatus. Pinnated Fucus;
— — — • tamariscifolius. Tamarisk Fucus ;
tonientoftis. Woolly Fucus ;
Galeopsis tetrahit t. Nettle Hemp, with a party-coloured
flower ; in corn fields, near Settle.
villosa. Hairy Dead Nettle; in sandy corn-fields.
Gc.lium boreute. Cross-leaved Ladies' Bed-straw ; on the
hills, between Kilnsay and Grasswood, and
elsewhere.
Galium montanum. Mountain Ladies' Bedstraw ; on the rocks,
common.
Gentiana Amarella. Autumnale Gentian; on lime-stone
hills, and pastures.
Gentiana pnemonanthe. Calathian Violet ; inTattershall Park,
Storkon-moor.
Geranium Columbinum. Long-stalked Doves'-foot Cranes'-
bill ; in corn fields and mountainous meadows.
— - — — lucidum. Shining Doves'-foot Cranes'-bill ; on stone
fences about Settle, and elsewhere.
moschatum. Musk Cranes'-bill, or Muscovy ; about
Craven.
Geranium phoeum. Spotted Cranes'-bill ; in mountainous pas-
tures, at Clapham, in the West Riding.
Geranium
540
YORKSHIRE.
haustible in quantity. Except this latter mineral,
and lead found about Richmond, few of those found
in the North Riding are of superior quality, or
Geranium pyrenaicum. Mountain Cranes'-uill ; in meadows
and pastures, between Bingley and Kigliley.
sanguineum. Bloody Cranes'-bill ; on rocks and
mountains, about Settle, and Malham.
_ syhaticum. Wood Cranes'-bill ; in pastures and
woods about Settle, and elsewhere.
Geum male. Water Avens; in pastures and woods, not
uncommon.
Gnaphatium dioicum. Mountain Cudweed, or Catsfoot ; upon
Inglehorough, and elsewhere.
Hclleborus viridis. Wild Black Hellebore ; in Keddal Lane,
near Leeds.
Hicracium murorum. Wall Hawkweed, or Golden Lungwort ;
on the rocks, near the Waterfall, at Aysgarth
force.
— paludosum. Succory-leaved Hawkweed ; in wet
meadows, about Craven, plentifully, and else-
where.
subaudum: Shrubby Hawkweed ; a variety, with
leaves spotted with red ; on the rocks in Grass
wood, and at Gordal.
Hippocrepis comosa. Tufted Horse-shoe Vetch ; on lime-
stone rocks.
flippopltae Rhamnoides. Sea Buckthorn ; on the sea bank,
between VVhitly and Lyth.
Hijpericum montanum. Mounlain'St. John's Wort ; in Sykes
wood, near Ingleton, and elsewhere.
Jaiione mantana. Sheets' Scabious ; in meadows, and on
heaths, near I ngleton.
Jungermannia ciliaris. Fern Jungermannia; in wet woods,
heaths, and banks of rivers.
. pusilla. Dwarf Jungermannia ; in Gray wood,
in-ar Castle Howard.
_____ - qninqucdcnlfita. Toothed Lichenastrum ; on
wet woods and shady places.
tiichopkylla. Hairy Jungermannia; in turfy
heaths, m-ar North Bingley.
Lathyrus palustris. Marsh Chickling Vetch ; in wet meadows
and pastures.
Lathraa squammarin. Toothwort ; in shady place? and moun-
tains ; at Newborough and Welherley Grange
woods.
Leonuruf Cardiaca. Mntherwort ; on rubbish and hedges,
between Tickhdl and Worksop.
Ledidium latifolium. Dittander, or Prpperwort; in the corn,
between Hriiingboroiigh and Mil'ington.
Lichen apthtosus. Thrush Liverwort; on Jngleborough and
elsewhere.
, alrovirens. Greenish Liverwort ; on rocks.
— — — c<truttsrens. Bluish Liverwort ; on trees, near Brad-
lord.
, — Crassus. Thick Liverwort ; on rocks and heaths, near
Malham.
— _flu.viatiUs. River Liverwort ; in the river, near Mal-
ham cove.
. — gelidus. Broad Lichen ; on rocks and stones, near
Malham and I ngleton.
— herbaceus. Green Liverwort; on stony rocks, and
trunks of trt-c-s.
.1 miniatus. Cloudy Liverwort: on rocks and stones,
at Malham Cove and Knare^borough rocks.
Jjgustrum Tulgnrc. Privet ; in Grasswood, near Gras>singtnn,
and elsewhere.
Licoperdon fornicututa. Turret Puff-hall; on banks under
hedges, near Doncasler.
,L>/copndium alpinum. Mountain Club-moss ;^ on the summits
— — cluvatum. Common Cliib-<noss ; J- of Ingleborongh
.*. - aelago. Fir Club-moss ;• j and elsewhere
converted to any important use. About the middle
of last century, a mine of fine copper was wrought
near Middleton Tyas ; and veins of this metal are
supposed
Lysimachia tenella. Purple Moneywort ; on bogs.
• thyrsiflora. Yellow Loose-strife, with a globular
spike ; in the East Riding, in wet places.
Melampyrum prutense. Meadow Cow-wheat ; in a wood at
North Bierley.
Melica montana. Mountain Melic Gra«s ; in Skirrith wood,
near Ingleton, and elsewhere.
Mentha piptrata Peppermint; on the right hand of the road,
leading from Leeds to Holbeck.
Myrica Gait. Gale, or Sweet Willow ; plentifully at Arkham
bog.
Narcissus poeticus. Common pale Daffodil, or Primrose
Peerless ; in meadows and pastures, near Hali-
fax.
Narthesium Ossifrngttm. Lancashire Asphodel ; on bogs.
Nymphita alba. White water Lily ; in rivers and ponds, at
Sandhutton Car, and near Yearsley Bridge.
Ophioglossutn vulgatum. Adder's Tongue ; in meadows and
sides of fields, not uncommon.
Ophrys Apiferu. Bee Orchis ; in chalk meadows and pastures.
— — cordatn. Least Twayblade ; on heaths and moors, as
on Blackey moor.
'— muscifera. Fly Orchis; on the hilly lime-stone pas-
tures at Stackhouse, near Settle, and in Skirrith
wood, and near Ingleton.
Nidus avis. Birds Nest; in Thorparch woods.
— OTCtta. Twayblade ; in woods and shady damp places,
at Kilnsay, and elsewhere.
Ophrys spiralis. Triple Ladies Traces ; in a field by Led-
stone hall, Leeds, and at Sprotborough and
Mai ton.
Orchis bifolia. Butterfly orchis ; ) in hilly limestone pastures as
: — conopsea. Sweet Orchis; J on Mill Island, near Settle.
Ornithogalum luteum. Yellow Star of Bethlehem ; about
Doncaster, and elsewhere.
Osmunda crispa. Stone Fern ; among stones.
Lunaria. Moonwort; on Mear bank, by Sykes
wood, and elsewhere.
Parnassia palustris. Grass of Parnassus ; on bogs not uncom-
mon.
Paris quadrifolia. Herb Paris, True Love, or One Berry ;
in Kelkoe road, near Settle, near Stockeld
and Busby, and elsewhere.
Phallus impudicus. Stinking Morel, or Stinkhorns ; in woods
at Rolherham.
Phaieutll repent. Creeping Phascum ; on trees.
PimpineUamujnr. Great Btirnet Saxifrage; in the fissures of
the limes'one rocks about Settle.
PinguicuJa vulgaris. Common Butterwort; on bogs, com-
mon.
Planttigo maritima. Sea Plantain ; in the road leading from
Kilnsay to Arncliff, and elsewhere, on the
sides ot mountains, near Settle.
Polemonium carulium. Jacob's Ladder; at Malham or Maum
Cove; by 'he side of the rivulet, and in
Conistone Dib ; in a low wood, also at Amber
star.
Polygonum bistorta. Snake-weed ; in wet meadows.
hydropiper /8. minus. Small Creeping Arsmart ;
near the Foss, York.
Polypodium Dryopteris. Branched Polypody ; about Kiln-
say ; among limestones on the right-hand side
of the Girling Trough, near Conislone.
fragile. Brittle Polypody ; common on rocks,
castles, and walls.
Polypodium Phagnpteris. Wood Polypody ; in wet shady
fissures of rocks.
Potentilla
YORKSHIRE.
611
supposed to run through several parts of the Western
Moorlands. In 1798, copper of an excellent qua-
lity was found at Richmond ; and, at about 14 miles
Potentillafruticosa. Shrub Cinquefoil ; on the banks of the
Tees, near Thorp and Eggle»ton abbey.
opaea. Small Rough Cinquefoil; in pastures near
Kip pax.
— — — verna. Spring Cinquefoil ; on a stone wall, at Car-
low nick, adjoining the west end of the Cray
pastures, near Cars-end.
Primula farinosa. Bird's Eye; on bogs, common.
Prunus padus. Bird Cherry ; in woods.
Pyrola minor. Lesser Winter Green ; in woods, near Clap-
ham.
— rotundi/olia. Common Winter Green ; in Hackfell wood,
near Grewelthorp, and elsewhere.
— — secunda. Dented leaved Winter Green; in Haslewood,
near Sir Walter Vavasor's park.
Ranunculus lingua. Great Spearwort ; in marshes and ditches,
near Beverley.
Rkamnusfrangula. Black Berry bearing Alder; in Thorp
arch woods.
Rhodiola rosea. Rosewort ; on mountains.
Ribes alpinum. Mountain Currants ; in woods and hedges.
— — rubrum. Red Currants ; on the edges of the wet ditches.
Rosa villosa. Apple Rose ; in Grasswood, near Kilnsay, and
elsewhere.
Rubut chamaemorux. Cloudberry ; on the highest mountains
about Settle and Ingleton.
— Idacus. Raspberry ; in Grasswood, near Kilnsay, and
elsewhere.
•—— saxatilus. Stone Bramble ; in mountainous woods about
Settle, and elsewhere.
Salis arenaria. Sand Willow ; in sandy pastures, between
Kiensay and Arncliff.
——Helix. Spurge-leaved Willow ; in watery places, com-
mon.
— — Herbacea. Herbaceous Willow; in damp situations on
mountains.
— pentandra. Sweet Willow, on mountains, about Kiln-
say, and elsewhere.
« • reticulata. Round-leaved Dwarf Willow ; on the top of
Ingleborough, and on a hill called Whernside,
near Ingleborough.
Samolus valerandi. Water Pimpernel ; on bogs.
Sanguisorba qfficinalis. Great or Meadow Burnet ; common
in pastures.
Saponaria officinalis. Soap Wort; at Merton bridge on the
Swale.
Satyrium viride. Frog Orchis; on the moist hilly pastures
about Settle.
albidum. White Satyrium ; in wet meadows about
Malham.
Saxifraga autumnalis. Autumnal Saxifrage; on the moist
rocks of Ingleborougb, and elsewhere.
• i hypnoides. Ladies Cushion ; on mountains.
— — oppositifolia. Purple Saxifrage ; on Ingleborough
and Pennigent.
Scabioia Columbaria. Mountain Scabious; on limestone
rocks.
Scandix odorata. Sweet Cicely ; under the stone walls about
Settle, at the entrance into Kilnsay, and in
Whitfell Gill, near Askrig.
Schanus comprcssui. Flat-headed Bog-rush ; in wet boggy
places, about Ingleton.
- - . • nigricaHS. Bla<k Bog-rush; on a bog in Skirrith
wood, near Ingleton.
Scirpus uccuhiris. Least Upright Club Rush ; on the edge of
a rivulet, near Giggleswick Tarn, which runs
from the ebbing and flowing well.
• .IN ctcspitosus. Heath Club Rush ; on moors.
VOL. IV. — MO. 179.
from that place, arc mines of lead, which are wrought
with great profit. Several parts of the Eastern
Moorlands seem to contain much iron stone, of w'uLU
at
Scrophularia vernalis. Yellow Figwort ; in hedges, near
Newborough.
Senecio saracenicus. "Broad-leaved Ragwort ; in wet meadow -
and pastures : about Clapham.
Sedum anglicum. Mountain Stonecro|); on rock?, Inglebo-
roueh and Clapham.
— — villosum. Marsh Stonecrop ; on the sides of Inglebo-
rough.
SeKnum palustre. Marsh Selinum ; in marches near Don-
caster.
Serapius latifolia p. A variety of Common Helleborine; in
Sykes wood, and elsewhere.
. •ypalustris. Marsh Helleborine ; in the boggy part of
Sykes wood, also near Kilnsay, and elsewhere.
- longifolid. White-flowered Bastard Hellebore; under
Brakenslrow, near Ingleton.
longifoliafr. A variety of white flowered Bastard.
• y. Another variety, [n woods and bushy
places about Clapliam and Ingleton.
Silene Noctiflora. Noitingham Catclifly, in corn-fields near
Wetherby.
Sison inundatum. Least Water Parsnip ; near the Foss, at
York.
Solidaeo Cambrica, Welch Golden Rod; on mountains.
Spergma nodosa. Knotted Spurry ; on bogs about Settle, and
elsewhere.
Splachnum vasculosum. Orange Spnchnum ; on wet mountains
and heaths.
Staphylaa pinnata. Bladder Nut Tree; in hedges, near
Pontefract.
Statice Armeria.. Thrift Sea Gilly Flower; in Blcaberry-giH,
at the head of Stockdale field, near Settle.
Stellaria nemorum. Broad-leaved Stticiiwort ; in \vet woods
and hedges.
Stratiotes aloides. Fresh Water Soldier , in slow rivers and
ponds, at Stork, near Beverley.
Taxus baccata. Eugh ; on rocks at Giggleswick Scar.
Thalictrum minus. Lesser Meadow Rue ; in Skirrith wood,
near Ingleton, and elsewhere.
Thlaspi montanum. Mountain Mithridate Mustard ; in the
mountainous pastures in the road from Settle
to Malham, and the pastures about the ebbi»g
and flowing well a mile from Settle, towards
Ingleborough.
Trichonwies tunbngense. Tunbridge Trichomanes ; in fis-
sures of wet rocks.
Trientalis Europasa. Chickweed Winter Green ; in woods
and on heaths ; near Bingley, and elsewhere.
— Europcea ft. A variety of Winter-Green ; near Gis-
burgh in Cleveland.
Trifolium alpestre. Long-leaved Clover; in Skirrith and
other woods.
• ornithopoides. Bird's-foot Trefoil ; among the corn
near Tadcaster.
Triglochin palustre. Arrow-headed Grass; common in marshy
places.
Treticum caninum. Bearded Wheat Grass ; on banks and
highways, common.
junceum. See Wheat Grass ; on the sea coast, near
Hornsea.
Trollius Europteus. Globe Flower or Locker Gowlons ; in
Skirrith wood, and elsewhere.
Turritis hirsata. Hairy Tower Mustard , on old walls and
rocks.
Ulmus campestris y. WychElm; in hedges and woods.
Ufaa pruniformis. Plum Laver, in Malham Tarn.
P'accinium Afyrtillus. Bleaberry ; on heaths, common.
Ox
Paccinium
YORKSHIRE.
at present no use is made; but huge heaps of iron
slag1, and the appearance of charcoal heaths, indi-
cate that it was once wrought on a large scale in
several of these dales. Excellent I'ree-stone or grit
is found on Gatherley moor, at Renton, and in seve-
ral other places ; but one of the best quarries is
near Whitley ; at which place the new pier is a fine
exemplar of its fitness for building. A ridge, which
extends thirty miles along the edge of the Eastern
Moorlands, produces lime of a quality peculiarly
valuable for agricultural purposes. Various kinds
of marble are found in the Western Moorlands •, in
the north-western extremity of the North Riding
are large blocks of a light red granite ; and there,
as in the vale of York, coal is found, in small quan-
tities, and bad in quality. In the West Riding,
coals are found in abundance ; with excellent stone
for building and other purposes : in the parish of
Leeds are quarries of an argillaceous schist, which
supply the neighbourhood with slates and flagstones ;
and from the north-east border of the same parish,
as far as Skipton, extends a bed of imperfect gra-
nite, called moor stone. — In the neighbourhood of
Nidderdall are some considerable lead mines ; north-
westward from Buckden, are martial and copper
pyrites ; compact and stalactical calauiine; and an ore
of zinc is raised in large quantities about Arnclifle,
Kettlexvell and Malham. Wickersley is noted for
supplying the manufactory of Sheffield with grind-
stones for all the finer articles of cutlery ; and it
\nay be observed, generally, of all these ores, that
they are accompanied in the vein with baroselemite,
calcareous spar, or carbonate of lime and quartz.
There are, in this riding, several mineral waters,
the most famous of which is the sulphureous water
of Harrowgate. At the same place, and at Thorp-
Arch, are mineral springs ; at Knaresborough is a
remarkable petrifying well ; and near Settle is a
curious ebbing and flowing well.
RIVERS.]— As the waters of several inland coun-
ties are collected and discharged by the Trent, so
all the streams of Yorkshire, with slight exceptions,
become tributary to the Ure or Ouse. This river,
•which, in its eafrly course, bears the appellation of
the Ure, rises in the mountainous region between
Yorkshire and Westmorland ; and, flowing rapidly
through the beautiful valley of Wensleydale, soon
becomes a boundary of the North and West Ridings.
At Myton, it receives the united waters of the
Wiske, a small river from Osmotherly, and the
romantic Swale, which flows from a source but
little distant from that of the Ure, passes Swaledale,
Richmond, and Catterich, and afterwards visits the
Vale of York. At six miles below Boroughbridge
Vaccinium fr'aycoccus. Cranberry; on boggy places about
Seitle, and elsewhere.
Vitis idaa. Red Bilberry ; on heaths.
Veronica montana. Mountain Speedwell , in &took«ld woods
and Escricke.
triptyllus. Trifid-leaved Speedwell, in cornfields
.near Rossington.
the Ure, augmented by the stream called the Ouse,
receives that appellation ; passing Nun-Monkton,
it receives the Nid, from the valley of Netherdale ;
at York it is joined by the Foss, a small stream
from Craike Castle ; eight miles lower, it meets
the Wharf, from the Craven Hills ; and thus aug-
mented to a smooth and broad stream, it passes
Selby, and is swelled by theDerwent, a river which
rises iu the eastern moorlands of the North Riding,
about four miles from the sea, is navigable from the
Ouse to the. town of Malton, and forms a short line
of boundary, to the North and East Ridings. After
this junction the Ouse receives near Booth Ferry
the united Calder and Aire. The latter of these,
one of the most considerable rivers of Yorkshire,
issues from the mountains of Craven, glides with a
slow, smooth, and serpentine course along the valley
of Acredale, visits Leeds and Castleford, where it
receive* the Calder from the borders of Lanca-
shire and Snaith ; and becomes tributary, a little
below the village of Armin. At Goole, the Ouse
is increased by the Don, which rises in the Western
Moors, and passes Sheffield, Rotherham, Conis-
brough, and Doncaster. Having thus received all
its Yorkshire waters, the Ouse, now become as wide
as the Thames, at London, after making a circuit
to the sojUth, near Swineflat, takes a uorth-easterly
direction to its confluence with the Trent from Lin-
colnshire. Here it takes the name of the 11 umber,
the Abus of Ptolemy, and becomes more than a
mile in width. Rolling eastward its vast body of
waters, enlarged at Hull to a breadth of two or
three miles, it there receives the river of the same
name ; which, rising near the foot of the wolds, takes
a south-easterly direction at Driffield, and, passing
within half a mile of Beverley, continues its course
to Hull, where its mouth forms a secure but con-
tracted haven. A few miles below Hull, opposite
to Hedon and Paul, the Humber takes a direction
nearly soiith-east, and, widening into a vast «stu-
ary, six or seven miles in breadth, disembogues
itself into the German Ocean. Thus, it appears,
from this sketch, that the vast volume of the Ouse
is augmented by all the waters of Yorkshire ; ex-
cept the little river Eske, which rises in the centre
of the eastern moorlands, the upper part of tbe
Ribble, which ruivs into Lancashire, and some jo-
considerable brooks, which flow into the Tees.
The last mentioned river rises in ihe mountains of
Westmorland ; and, taking an easterly direction,
divides the North Riding of Yorkshire from the
county of Durham, through its whole extent.
'CANALS.] — The principal canals whieli are entitled
to notice under the head of Yorkshire are, the
fi.-'aiyi 'tr»(-'i. RJLI^.I Ve'ch ; in hedges near Doncaster,-
sylvatica. Wood Veicn ; in Skirritu wood, near Ingle
ton.
randiflora. Yellow Violet; iu mountainous places,
frequent ; about Auauicre Cliff, near Si-tile.
palustrii. Mar-h Violet; iu tiiggleswick Tarn, and
elsewhere.
Leeds
YORKSHIRE.
Leeds and Liverpool, the Barnsley, Hie Drarne and
Dove, the Stainforth and Keadhy, the lluddersfield,
the Foss Navigation, the Market Weighton Canal,
And a canal, which is about seven miles long1, and
communicates with Great Driflield, and the river
Hull. The head of the Leeds and Liverpool canal
is at Foulbridge ; and in its course to Liverpool it
visits Coin, Burnley, Blackburn, Heapy, Wigan,
and Ormskirk. Its other fall is by 8 a her ford, and
East Morton, across the river Aire to Thorlby,
Sturton, Skipton, Bradley, Kijdwick, Sdsden, and
Bingley. Here it again erosses the Aire, passes
Shipley, and takes a semi-circular passage round
the Idle, near Apperton-briiige, Horslbrtb, and
Kirkstall-Abhey, by Bur ley an<l llolberk, to the
town of Leeds : a course, in the whole, of 130
miles, with 838 feet f«H : from the summit, near
Coin to Leeds, 45 miles, with 409 feet fall ; and,
from its greatest elevation to Liverpool, 85 miles ;
with 429 feet fall. There is also a collateral cut
from near Shipley to Bradford. The.Barnsley canal,
which is a channel of communication between the
river Calder at WakenYld, and the Dearn and Dove
at Barnsley, visits Crofion, Felkirk, and Royston;
and, arriving at Barnsley, makes a bead to Barnby-
Bridg«, near the town of Cowl home : a course of
about 14 miles, with 120 feet fall. The Dearne and
Dove canal, the whole length of which is 9$ miles,
connects the town of Barnsley with the Don ; pass-
ing, in its course, the .towns of Wath, Woiubvvell,
and Ardsley. Its entire fall is 125 feet ; and it has
two small branches to the iron-work at Cob-car-
ing, and to Worsbrough- bridge. The Stainlorth
and Ki-iulliy canal joins the Don and the Trent, by
a line which passes Crowle and Keadby on a dead
level, it has no locks but at the extremities. The
Hudderstield canal joins Sir John Ramsden's canal
on the south side of Huddersfield, arid, taking a
westerly course, runs parallel with the river Colne,
which it crosses twice. Alter passing Long-wood,
Slaithwaite, and Marsden, it flows through a tun-
nel, 3i miles in length, to Ruspeiiiills ; and takes
*he route of the river Tame, the windings of which
it often intersects. Proceeding within one mile of
Lydgate, it passes Mossley ami Stey ley-bridge, and
joins the Ashton and Oldham canal, on the south
side of Ashton ; an entire course of 19 miles, five
furlongs, in which are 770 feet of lockage. The
Foss navigation is the channel of intercourse, be-
tween the river Foss at Stellington, and the Ouse
at York. The Market Weighton canal is cut through
tire low grounds, within or near Market Weigbton,
Blacktoft, Everlingham, Stareswell, Haton Ross,
Holme upon Spalding Moor, Froggathorpp, Gub-
tuorpe, Spaldington, Burseii, Hasholme, Wholoca,
North Cliffe, South Cliffe, Hotham Houghton,
•Broomfleet, Flaxfleet, Shipton, and Sancton, serv-
ing not only the beneficial purpose of drainage, but
facilitating the carriage at a cheap rate, of much
produce which was before transported at a great
expence by land carriage.
ROADS.] — The turnpike roads of the North Riding
are good ; but of the parochial ways, many are in a
bad condition, especially in that part of the Vale of
York, which lies between the western extremity of
the Howardian hills and the rivet- Ouse, in Rydale;
and in the Marishes, where the soil is deep ajid
humid. In the Western Moorlands, and about
Cleveland, the roads are mostly excellent ; the
contrary may be said of those of the Eastern Moor-
lands. On the wolds of the East Riding, good
high roads are an improvement greatly wanted.
Here, though the best materials abound, for their
formation, they are in as bad a state as any where
in the island. In the West Riding, on tlie con-
trary, a considerable degree of attention is given
to the management of the roads, many of which,
in the manufacturing parts of the country, have
footpaths on the sides. The numerous heavily laden
carriages, however, which pass on these roads, cut
them up, and render their repair a diHicult task,
especially as they are in many parts distant from
good materials. In this riding, the road from Hali-
fax to Wakefield is, perhaps, the worst, and that
from Bawstry to Doncaster is one of the best in the
kingdom.
ETYMOLOGY, GENERAL HISTORY, ANTICI'ITIES,
&c.] — It is evident that this county derived its name
from York ; some conjectures respecting the etymo-
logy of which will be found in our description of
that ancient city.
By the Romans, this district was included in the
division called Maxima Caesariensis, and was inha-
bited by the Brigantes ; a people of whom some
account has already been given in our historical
sketches of the counties of Cumberland, Durham,
&c. — Several of the Roman roads ran through the
Ager Eboracensis, or province of York; and some
parts of them may yet be traced in different parts
of the county. The Watling Street intersected
Yorkshire from the edge of Nottinghamshire to the
bishopric of Durham. The point where it entered
the county must have been in the neighbourhood of
Bawtry. It passed -through Doncaster, and thence
it may be traced over Scawshy and Pigburn Leas
to Barnsdale, and to East -Hard wick, and through
Pontefract Park to Castleford. From this military
station, a little below the junction of the Aire and
Ca-lder, it was continued to Tadcaster, and thence
to York, the chief seat of the Roman power. From
York, it was carried forward to Aldborough, about
a mile from Boroughbridge, and thence, nearly in
"the direction of the present Leeming Lane, to -Cat-
terick. Crossing the river-Swale, it then continued
in a line deviating a little from north to west, till it
entered, at Piersebridge, that part of tho coxuitry of
the Brigantes, now distinguished by the name of the
bishopric of Durham, and thence continued to -the
vallum, or Roman wall. — Another military road led
from Manciinium, or Manchester, to York, by the
way of Cambodunum, .which Camden- places at
.Almondbury. — A Roman road also ran from York
to
£14
YORKSHIRE.
to Malton ; and another from York io Bridling'on
Bay, called by Ptolemy, Gabrantovicorum Sinus
Portuosus, or Salutaris. From this famous bay,
the Ron an ridge appears for many miles over the
wolds, stretching in a direct line from York. Fur-
ther to the south was a Roman road from York, to
the Prsetorium of Antoninus, which Camden places
at Patrington, and Drake at the Spurn Point, where
was once a noted seaport town, called Ravenspur,
now swallowed up by the sea. On this road the first
station from York was Derveutio, which Camdeu
fixes at Aldby, and Drake at Stamford bridge. The
fiext station was Delgovitia, or Londesbrough.
From Delgovitia another Roman road ran almost
directly south to a village on the {lumber, called
Brough ; and from Wintringham, on the opposite
side, continued to Lincoln.
Subsequently to the departure of the Romans,
this county formed part of the Saxon kingdom of
the Northumbrians, or North-Humbers, and con-
tinued so until the end of the heptarchy. — All this
part of the island suffered much from the Danes ;
and after the Conquest it was divided among some
of the great Norman barons, who were sworn to
prevent the incursions of the Scots. The English,
however, not liking the Norman government, fled
in great numbers to Scotland, and assisted King
Malcolm Canmore .to invade the northern borders.
News of this invasion having been brought to the
Conqueror, he swore that he would extirpate them ;
but found it impossible, and was obliged to conclude
a peace with the Scots. — Yorkshire continued to
make a considerable figure during the civil wars
between the houses of York and Lancaster; and in
the reign of Edward IV. a formidable rebellion broke
out here, which was not suppressed but with the
loss of many lives. An insurrection also happened in
the reign of Henry VIII. in consequence of the dis-
solution of the monasteries, the loss of which was sen-
sibly felt by the poorer classes. — Above 40,000 of
tham took up arms, and marched to Doncaster,
committing great devastations in their way, and
insisting that the convents should be restored. They
called themselves the Holy and Blessed Pilgrims :
on one side of their banner was the figure of Christ
crucified, and on the other side were the figures of
a chalice and a host. This formidable mob was met
by the Earl of Shrewsbury and the Duke of Nor-
folk ; but the river Don having overflowed its banks,
they were prevented from coming to a general en-
gagement. In the mean time a pardon was published
for all such as would disperse, which having in gene-
ral been accepted, the greatest part of them returned
home. Some, however, expiated their offences with
their lives.
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.] — This county
returns 30 snembers to the great national council;
of which 2 are for the shire, and 2 for each of the
boroughs, distinguished by asterisks under the suc-
ceeding head.
MARKET AND BOROUGH TOWNS, &c.]— The fol-
lowing are the market and borough towns in this
county, with their population for the respective
years of 1801 and 1811 ; the letters E. N. and W.,
indicating to which of the ridings they belong.
Population.
1801 1811
Towns. Market Days.
Abberford(W.) Monday....
*Aldborough(W.),
A?krigg(N.) , Thursday
Barnsley (W.) Wednesday
Bawtrey (W.)... Saturday
Bedale'(N.) Tuesday
*Beverley (E.) Wedncs. and Sat....
Bingley(W.) Friday
*I5oroughbridge (W.) Saturday
Bradford (W.) Thursday
DridliDAton (E.) Saturday
Cawood (W.) Discontinued.........
Cave, South (E.)
Dent (W.)
Dewsbury (W.)
Driffield(E.) Thursday
Gisburn (W.)
Guisborough(N.) ....Monday
Halifax (W.) Saturday
Hawes (N.)
*Hedon (E.) Saturday
Helmsley (N.) Saturday ....
Hornsea(E.) Saturday
Howden (E.) Saturday
Huddersfield(VV.) Tuesday
Keighley (W.) ..Wednesday
Ketllewell (W)
*Kwgstan-upou-Hull Tues. and Saturday.
Kirkby-Moorside ^N).... Wednesday
*Knaresborough (W.) Wednesday
Leeds (W.) Tues. and Saturday.
Leyburn (N.) Friday
*Malior. (N.) Tues. and Saturday.
Marsham (N.) Tuesday
Middleham(N.)
*Northallerton (N.).
Otley(W.)
Patrington (E.) Saturday
Penistone (W.)
Pickering (N.) Monday
Pocklington (E.) Saturday
*Pontefract (W.) Saturday
Reeth (N.)
* Richmond (N.) Saturday
Ripley (W ) Monday
*Ripon (W.) Thursday
Rotherham (W.) Monday
*Scarborough (N.).- Thurs. and Saturday
Sedbergh (W.) Wednesday
Selby (W.) Monday
Seitle (W.) Friday
Sheffield (W.) Tuesday
Sherborne(W.) Friday
Skipton (W.)- Saturday
Stokesley (N.) Saturday
Tadcaster(W.) Wednesday
*Thirsk(N.) Monday
Thome (W.) Wednesday
Wakefield (W.) Wed. Thurs. Friday
Weighton, Market (E.)..Wednesday
Wetherby (W.) Thursday
Whitby (N.) Saturday
Yarm(N.) Thursday.....
*York Tu«. Thurs. & Sat.
..Monday
..Wednesday
..Fridav
650 649
555 687
761 745
3606 5014
793 918
1005 1078
5401 673.1
4100 4782
680 747
6393 7767
3130 3741
1025 1053
707 718
1773 1663
4566 5059
1411 1939
485 509
1719 1835
8886 9159
1223 1185
592 780
1449 1415
533 704
1552 1812
7268 9671
5745 6864
437 361
22,161 21,299
1396 1673
3388 4234
53,16262,534
446 593
3047 3713
1022 1014
728 714
2138 S234
2332 2602
894 1016
498 515
1994 2332
1532 1539
3097 3605
1)28 1394
2861 3056
270 273
3211 3633
3070 2950
6409 7067
1639 1805
286) 3363
1136 1153
31,31435,840
953 958
2505 . 286»
1369 J439
2072 2258
2092 2155
2655 2713
8131 8593
1183 1508
1144 1140
7483 6969
1300 1431
16,84618,217
Crm.
YORKSHIRE.
545
CITIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS, &c] — The
whole of this county is divided into wapentakes, as
will distinctly appear from the population tables
inserted in subsequent pages. The E. Riding
contains 242 parishes, and one part of a parish ;
the N. 100 parities, and 2 parts of parishes ; the
W. 198 parishes, and 5 parts of parishes. In the
E. are 11 petty sessions, and 33 acting county
magistrates; in the N. 15 sessions, and 53 magis-
trates ; in the W. 11 sessions, and 59 magistrates.
— This county is in the province of York ; which
contains the sees of Carlisle, Chester, Durham,
Sodor and Man, and York. The diocese of York
comprises three parts in four of \ orkshire, the county
of Nottingham, and 5 churches and chapels in that
of Northumberland ; including about 903 churches,
chapels, and donatives, of which 336 are impro-
priate.
TRADE, MANUFACTURES, &c.] — One of the most
considerable manufacturing districts in England,
perhaps in the world, is the West Riding of York-
shire. Its local advantages are great : on all sides
the raw materials abound ; and coals, an article of
indispensible necessity, are plentiful and cheap.
Its artificial productions, therefore are various, and
of immense value. At Leeds, Wakefi eld, Bradford,
Halifax, and Huddersfield, is carried on, to an asto-
nishing extent, the manufacture of broad and narrow
cloths, shalloons, calliinancoes, flannels, and every
kind of woollen goods ; and, at Sheffield, and in its
•vicinity, cutlery and plated goods of every descrip-
tion are manufactured in infinite variety, to be ex-
ported to all parts of the world.
NORTH AND EAST RIDINGS.
FAIRS.] — Jdwa/on—Feb. 6, March 9 ; Thursday
in Easter week j Thursday fortnight after Easter ;
Thursday month after Easter ; Whit-Thursday, and
every Thursday fortnight after, till Michaelmas ;
horses, sheep, pedlary, and tin-ware.
Atdbmougk — September 4.
Applet rezeick — October 2, cattle and horses.
dskngg — May 10, horned cattle ; May 12, and
first Thursday in June ; woollen cloth, pewter,
brass, and milliners' goods; October 28, horned
cattle ; October 29, woollens, &c.
dstwick — Thursday before Whit-Sunday, horned
cattle.
Bams Barton — May 14, horses, sheep, and beasts.
Bedal — Easter-Tuesday, Whit-Tuesday, July 5
and 6 ; horned cuttle, horses, leather, pewter, brass,
tin, millinery, ant! sheep.
tienlham — June 24, cattle.
Beveiley— Thursday before old Valentine. Feb. 25,
Holy Thursday, July 5, Novembers ; beasts, horses,
and sheep.
Bo/tun— June 28, cattle and pedlary.
Brundesburton — May 14.
Bruwby— First Monday after July 11, cattle,
toys, earthenware.
VOL. iv. — no 180.
Bridling/on — Monday before Whitsuntide, Octo-
ber 21, linrn-clolh and toys.
BntmftgH — November 12, swine and a few horses.
C(ix«-<iii/d — August 25, horned cattli', sheep, linen
and woollen cloth, pewter, and hardware.
Eastngmovid — July 5, Sept. 25, horned cattle,
horses, sheep, linen, and woollen cloth.
Egton — Tuesday before February 15, Tuesday
before May 11, September 4, Tuesday before No-
vember 22, horned cattle, boots and shoes.
Frodling/iam — July 10, October 2, toys and ped-
lary.
Ciisborough— -Third Monday and Tuesday after
April 11, linen cloth and horned cattle; Tuesday
in Whitsun-week, horned rattle and linen ; Aug. 26,
linen and cattle ; August 27, September 19, 20, and
first Momday after November 11, horned cattle.
Grinton — Good Friday, St. Thomas's-day, De-
cember 21, cloth, brass, pewter, tin, and millinery.
Hawes — Whit-Tuesday, woollen, &c. Sept. 28,
ditto, horned cattle, horses, &c.
Headon — Every fortnight ; August 2, Sept. 25,
November 17, pewter, tin, leather wares, and milli-
nery goods.
Helmsley Blackmoor—M&y 19, July 16, Oct. 2,
November 17 ; homed cattle, sheep, horses, linen
and woollen cloth.
Hornsey — August 12, December 17, horses and
beasts.
Howden — Second Tuesday after January 11,
Tuesday before April 5, Saturday before Holy
Thursday, second Tuesday after July 11, Oct. 2,
horses, cattle and linen.
. Hull — October 10, horses and toys-.
Hunmauby — May 6, October 29, toys.
Kett/ewell — July 6, September 2, sheep.
Kilhum — August 21, November 12, horses, and
beasts.
Kirkby Moor-side — Whit-Wednesday, horned
cattle and horses.
Kirk/lam — Saturday before Trinity Sunday, sheep,
brass, pewter, hardware, pots, and small ware.
Lee — August 24, Sept. 17, horses and cheese.
Leighton — Midsummer-Day, June 24, pedlary.
Little Driffietd — Easter Monday, Whit-Monday,
August 29, September 19, horses and leather.
Mutton — Saturday before Palm-Sunday, horses
and horned cattle; day before Whit-Sunday, sheep,
brass, and pewter ; October 10, hardware, pots, and
small ware; October 11, sheep.
Mas/iam — September 17 and 18, horned cattle,
sheep, and pedlary.
Middleham — Easter Monday, Whit-Monday, No-
vember 5, sheep ; November 0, horned cattle.
Moor-Kirk — June 24) leather ware.
Northatlerton — February 15, May 4, October 2,
horned cattle, horses, and* sheep.
Patiington — March 28, July 18, December 6,
toys.
Pickering — Monday before Old Candlemas-day,
Monday before Old Midsummer-day, September 25,
6 y cattle,
546
YORKSHIRE.
cattle and sheep ; Monday before Old Michaelmas -
day, cattle, &c.
Pocklittgton — March 7 (if leap-year, March 6,)
May 6, August 5, November 28, horses, cattle,
sheep, and leather ware ; December 7, 18, shew of
horses ; seven days before St. Matthias, Feb. 24,
shew of horses ; seven days before Christmas-day,
shew of horses.
Reeth — Friday before Palm-Sunday, Friday
se'nnight before Old May-day, May 12, Friday
before St. Bartholomew, Aug. 24, Friday se'nnight
before Old Martinmas, November 22, pewter, brass,
hawkers, and pedlary.
Richmond — Saturday after New Candlemas,
sheep, horses and swine ; Saturday before Palm-
Sunday, first Saturday in July, Sept. 25, horned
cattle, horses, and sheep.
Scarborough — Holy Thursday, Nov. 22, toys.
Seamei' — July 15, boots, shoes, and horses.
South Cave — Trinity Monday, horses and sheep.
Stokely — Saturday before Trinity-Sunday, horned
cattle, horses, and linen cloth.
Thirsk — Shrove Monday, April 4, 5, 6, a shew of
horses.
Tullerton — Aug. 26, horned cattle, horgi -, sheep,
and cheese.
Topcliff — July 17, 18, sheep, horned cattle, horses,
&c.
H'eighton — May 14, Sept. 25, horses and sheep.
Yarm — Thursday before April 5, Holy Thurs-
day, August 2, October 20, horned cattle, horses,
and sheep.
WEST RIDING.
Aberforth — Last Monday in April, last Monday
in May, Monday after October, cattle, sheep, and
pedlary.
Adwaltnn — February 6, March 9, Thursday in
Easter week, Thursday fortnight after Easter,
Thursday month after Easter, Whit-Thursday, and
every Thursday fortnight after till Michaelmas,
horses, sheep, pedlary and tin-ware.
Barmley — Wednesday before 28 Feb. horned
cattle and swine ; May 12, ditto ; October 10, ditto,
horses and cheese.
Bawtry— Whit Thursday, Old Martleraas, No-
vember 22, cattle, and horses.
Bingley — January 25, horned cattle ; August 25,
26, and 27, horned cattle, sheep and linen.
Black Burton — Whit-Monday, horned cattle.
Bradfield — June 17, December 9, chiefly for
swine.
Bradford — March 3 and 4, horned cattle, and
household furniture ; June 17, 18, 19, ditto, sheep
and ditto ; December 9, 10, 11, hogs and pedlary.
Boroushbridge — April 27, horned cattle, anil
sheep ; June 22, ditto horses, and ditto hardware ;
October 23, horned cattle and sheep.
Cawood — May 12, cattle and wooden ware.
QlapAam—St. Matthew, September 21, sheep.
Dewsbury — Wednesday before May 12, Wednes-
day before October 10, horned cattle, aud sheep.
Doncaster — April 5, August 5, November 26, and
Monday before Old Candlemas-day, February 13,
horses, cattle, sheep, and pedlary.
Gargrave — December 11 and 29, horned cattle,
and toys.
Grassingtcn — March 4, horned cattle ; April 24,
June 29, sheep ; September 26, horned cattle.
Guisburn — Easter Monday, Monday fortnight
after Easter, Saturday after Monday month from
Easter, horned cattle ; Monday five weeks after
Easter, pedlary ; September 18 and 19, horned cattle
and pedlary.
Halifax— June 24, horses.
Harwood — Last Saturday in April.
Tlolnts/irth — October 30, horned cattle.
Huddersfield — May 14, lean horned cattle, and
horses.
Ingleton — November 17, leather and oatmeal.
Keighley — May 8, horned cattle, brass, and pew-
ter ; November 8, horned cattle, brass, pewter, and
pedlary.
Knartsborough — Wednesday after January 13,
Thursday, sheep ; Wednesday after March 12, next
day, May 6 and 7, sheep ; Wednes. after Aug. 12,
Tuesday and Wednesday after October 10, and
Wednesday after November 22, statute ; Wednes-
day and Thursday after December 10, every Wed-
nesday fortnight, cattle.
Ltyburn — Second Friday in Feb., ditto Friday
in May, ditto Friday iii October, ditto Friday in
December, horned cattle and sheep.
Long Preston — Leap Year, March 1 , Feb. 28,
September 29, cattle.
Ma/ham — June 25, October 4, sheep.
Northoitram — September 21, cattle.
Oteley — Wednesday in Easter week, every fort-
night till Whit-Sunday, and then every three weeks,
horned cattle, household goods ; Friday before
November 22, statute.
Penniston — Thursday before February 28, last
Thursday in March, Thursday before Old May-day,
Miiy 12, Thursday after Old Michaelmas day, Octo-
ber 10, sheep, horned cattle, and horses.
Pontefract—St. Andrew's fair on the first Satur-
day in December ; twenty days fair the first Satur-
day after the 20th day from Christinas ; Candlemas
fair, the first Saturday after February 13 ; St.
Giles's fair, the first Saturday after September 12,
April 8, and May 4, cattle and sheep, &c. all the
other moveable fairs, viz. Palm Sunday, Low Sun-
day, May 4, and Trinity Sunday, to be held on the
Saturday before each of those days respectively.
The fortnight fairs are always held on the Satur-
day next after York fortnight fairs. — The shew for
horses, formerly called Palm Sunday shew, has for
some time past begun on the 5th of February,
cattle, sheep, &c.
Ripley — Easter Monday, hornedcattle, and horses;
Easter Tuesday, sheep ; August 25, 26, 27, sheep ;
horned cattle and linen.
Ripon — Thursday after January 13, horses, horned
cattle
YORKSHIRE.
547
cattle and leather ; May 12, 13, horses, and sheep ;
first Thursday in June, horned cattle, horses, lea-
' ther, and sheep ; first Thursday after August 22,
November 22, horses and sheep; every Monday,
cattle, and sheep.
Rolheitiarn — Whit Monday, horned cattle, and
sheep ; December 1, cattle and horses ; every Mon-
day, cattle and sheep.
Sedbergli— March 10, .Oct. 29, horned cattle.
Selby — Easter Tuesday, June 22, October 10,
cattle, wool, linen, tin, and copper-ware.
Settle — Tuesday before Palm Sunday, Thursday
before Good Friday, and every other Friday 'till
Whit Sunday, horned cattle ; April 26, sheep ;
June 2, and every Monday fortnight, cattle, and
sheep ; August 18 to 21, first Tuesday after Oct. 27,
horned cattle, leather, wool, sheep, lambs, &c.
Sheffield — Tuesday after Trinity, Sunday Nov. 28,
cattle and horses.
Stterboaine — October 6, Flax and horses.
Skipton — March 25, horned cattle, and sheep ;
Palm Sunday Eve, horses ; Easter Eve, cattle and
sheep ; first and third Tuesday after Easter, horned
•cattle; Whitsun Eve, linen cloth and mercery ;
AusrustS, horses, and cloth ; November 20, horned
-cattle November 22, broad-cloth, and pedlary.
S/aidburn — February 14, April 15, August 1,
October 20, cattle.
Snaith — First Friday in April, August 10, cattle,
horses, and pedlary.
Stamford Bridge — December 1, horses, horned
cattle, sheep, brass, pewter, hardware, and woollen-
cloth.
Tadcaster — Last Wednesday in April, May, and
October, sheep and cattle.
Thorne — First Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday
after June 11, and also the said days after Oct. 11,
horned cattle, horses, and pedlary.
Wukejield — July 4, and 5, horses, and hardware ;
November 11, 12. If either of these days fall on a
Sunday, the fair is held the Saturday before, horses,
and horned cattle; note, July 5, and November 12,
are pleasure fairs, for toys, &c.
fVetherby — Holy Thursday, August 5, October 10,
Thursday before November 22, statute, and horses,
sheep, and hogs.
Wigtifl— July 22, pedlary.
Yoi k— Whit Monday, July 10, Aug. 12, Nov. 22,
and principal markets, every other Thursday in the
year, sheep ; the half year shew for horses ; the sum-
mer shew on Monday in York race week ; the winter
shew on Monday December 17, the first whole week
before Christmas, horses.
POPULATION.] — In the year 1700, the population
of the E. Riding of the county of York was 90,200 ;
that of the N. 98,500 ; that of the W. 236,700 :
forming an aggregate of 431,500. In 1750, the
total population of Yorkshire was 564,200 ; of which,
the E. Riding contained 85,500; the N. 117,200;
the W. 361,500. In 1801, the E. Riding contain-
ed 144,000 souls; the N. 160,500; the W. 582,700.
The aggregate population of this county had, in
1811, increased to 973,113; or, making the proper
allowance for the individuals serving in the Navy
and Army, to 1,005,700.— In the E. and N. Ridings,
the proportion of births, is as 1 to 30 ; in the W.
Riding, as 1 to 31. The proportion of marriages,
in the E. Riding, is as 1 to 105 ; in the N. as 1
to 125 ; in the W. as 1 to 123. In the E. the
proportion of burials is as 1 to 47; in the N. and
W. as 1 to 51.
Summary of the Population of the County of YORK, as published by Authority of Parliament, in 1811.
WEST RIDING.
WARFENTAKES, &c.
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
(U
2
|8 .
>t ^
KiS
&
'5
CO
•d
u
1
'5
Families chiefly
employed in
Agriculture.
1 = 1 ,
mv*&»
= — a E
rt — r1" i
1 "5 & S
lip
3.S cs w
Males.
Females.
Total
of
Persons.
23401
3670
6870
27583
5436
6160
10834
4839
20741
1438
204
12249
1819
24795
3883
7276
28955
5797
6417
5095
22436
1557
210
13641
2181
106
8
31
20S
29
45
88
43
141
28
75
25
681
104
116
687
170
153
263
112
577
42
6
536
37
4303
2147
3885
2089
2924
2129
4055
1779
5674
173
166
648
896
17990
956
2621
23384
2125
3305
6050
2900
13578
833
31
11739
1004
2502
780
770
3482
748
983
1247
416
3184
551
13
1254
281
63799
8781
17374
69257
12049
15506
26839
12556
52713
3110
522
29512
4937
4282
63845
9195
17543
73508
73508
13540
'28371
12643
54182
3825
550
33022
5194
127644
17976
34917
142765
26189
31566
55210
21599
106S95
6935
1072
62534
10131
4282
Town and Liberty oi Leec!>
Totals
125264
133601
827
3484
30868
86522
16211 '321837 331478
6533 1 5
EAST
548
YORKSHIRE.
EAST RIDING.
WAPEVTAKES, &c.
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
Inhabited.
ft-g
11 I
CO
&
c
i§
ca
Uninhabited.
i .5 jj
u j, 3
>» £" =
1* o y
!^ 2- =
fc "
c
! = !<;
£ Sh-S
i 2 ,
z. C i f
*Kl
5 " *y
fllf
*J*1
Males.
Females.
Total
"of
Persons.
Wapoiakeof Buckrose
1657
2777
1249
1392
3383
1048
2078
1255
1081
1257
1204
1701
1530
2661
1457
4611
1765
2997
1349
1544
3813
1133
2338
1374
1 185
1477
1362
2012
1676
4000
1655
6541
10
13
8
8
18
o
10
4
3
3
7
16
4
11
7
8
31
41
25
17
147
30
55
18
13
34
25
35
43
71
56
306
1404
1555
805
1063
1195
727
1350
976
7^3
881
964
978
1165
125
241
305
2J5
656
330
300
1943
306
647
250
250
462
212
585
292
3088
702
2608
66
786
214
181
675
100
341
148
152
134
186
449
219
787
712
3628
4950
7097
3370
3835
7790
2647
5203
3414
3042
' 3267
3437
4339
4098
8129
3024
11998
1560
4552
7149
3133
3655
8982
2702
5458
3284
2935
3443
3577
45S2
4107
10088
3707
14794
9502
14246
6503
7490
16772
5349
1 06o6
6r>98
5977
6710
7014
8921
8205
18217
6731
26792
1560
Han hill, Bainton, Beacon. )
HjnM<"y Bearon, Ditto
Holdernrss Middle Ditto....
Liberty of St. P. ter ol York
Ainstey of City of York
City of York
Borough and Liberties of)
Town and County of the )
Town of Kinston-npon- >
Hull )
Totals
30341
36221
132
947
I4jl7
12926
8778
812r>5
86148 J167353
NORTH RIDING.
WAPENTAKES, &c.
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
Inhabited.
a
60
C
'3
ca
Uninhabited.
|||
= o' »T c
Il|!
j. Cf" -S
IAH uUur i1 aim-
lies not comprised
in the two pre-
cedina C'as«es.
Males.
Females.
Total
ol
Persons.
1632
2197
2500
1344
3160
1144
1897
2630
3341
2597
2640
3088
501
1625
2480
1677
2294
2789
1420
3497
1246
2022
2993
3478
2691
2737
3318
634
1817
3043
6
6
10
5
16
8
5
10
15
8
14
13
2
4
1
25
46
36
35
56
27
21
34
68
40
43
23
9
83
123
678
1132
1786
1508
839
743
1574
1794
1270
1451
2098
102
110
503
509
71S
524
289
1641
275
528
756
691
813
642
944
382
707
1448
490
447
479
149
348
132
751
663
993
608
644
476
!50
1000
1092
374
5231
6765
3058
8576
2759
4398
6375
1128
5525
6740
8434
1331
2962
5316
2364
3917
5399
6820
3306
8395
2877
4824
6978
1290
6073
6664
8487
1725
4105
6899
7641
10630
13585
6364
16971
5636
9222
13353
2418
1159S
13404
16921
3056
7067
12215
2364
152445
GiHini* East *.
Ditto West
Liberty of Langl)urgh,.... >
Ditto West Ditto
WapentaTce ot Rydale
Borough of Richmond
Liberty of Whitby-Strand...
Totals
32776
35856
123
668
16570
10864
8422
74681)
77759
CHIEF
YORKSHIRE.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
EAST RIDING.]— The East Ri'ling, which is, in
ft great degree, inferior in size to either of the other
divisions of Yorkshire, is, in ionn, an irregular
triangle, of which two sides arc defined by the Ouse
and HuiutxT, and the German Ocean ; while (he
third, i.e. the north west, is marked by the course
of the little river Hertford and the Derwent, to near
Stamford -bridge; and thence to York, where the
Ouse bounds it, by an irregular line ten or twelve
miles long. It is subdivided into six wapentakes :
Bnekrose, Dickering, Harthill, HoMerness, How-
denshire, Ouse, and Derwent ; and the town and
county of Kingston upon-Hull.
ANLABY.]— The well-built village of Anlaby, situ-
ated about two miles N. from Hessle, is adorned with
some elegant s.-ats. Formerly, it belonged to a
family, who derived their name from the possession ;
and who held it till 1100: when an heiress carried
it into the family of Legard, in which it remained
till the close of the last century.
AUGHTON .]— Aughton, situated about eight miles
from Howden, is distinguished, chiefly, for having
been the seat of an ancient and respectable family,
long since extinct or dispersed. The Askes, who
succeeded the family of llai, resided here from about
1365, till the reign of Charles I., when the head of
the family was one of the king's judges. Oi' this
family, also, was Sir Robert Aske, a man of daring
and enthusiastic courage, as well as considerable
talents ; who headed the insurrection called " the
pilgrimage of grace," in the days of Henry VIII.
Of the family seat, nothing remains but the site,
marked by several moats. ' At two miles distance,
is a similar site.
BEVERLEY.]— The important market town of Be-
verley, situated 9 miles from Hull, and 28 E. by
S. from York. At the foot of the wolds, was an-
ciently called Deirwald : the wood of the Deiri ;
from its extensive forest. Its present appellation
may be a corruption of Beaver ley, quasi focus
castorum: beavers having abounded in the neigh-
bouring river, Hull. Its origin and early history
are totally unknown, till the beginning of the 8th
century, when St. John of Beverley founded a
church and monastery, and died there. This insti-
tution was several times destroyed by the Danes ;
and there is a pause in its history, till Athelstan
granted to it many privileges, and built a new col-
lege. Many Archbishops of York were benefactors
to the monastery, ami expended large sums in beau-
tifying the church. In the early part of (lie civil
war, Charles I. had his quarters here; and subse-
quently the town was taken by the parliamenta-
rians. It appears that Beverley derived its first and
greatest importance from its connection with the
saint. In "its pre,*iiH state, the town is extensive
and pleasant. The entrance from Driflield, through
an ancient gateway, into a spacious street of elegant
houses, is particularly beautiful. Its market-place
also, being large and commodious, is a principal
ornament. The church of St. John, which is in ex-
cellent preservation, is a superb edifice, adorned
at its west end with two lofty steeples. Within, it
is rich in relics of antiquity. Gibson, describing it,
says " The minster here is a very fair and neat
structure: the roof is an arch of stone. In it are
several monuments of the Earls of Northumberland,
who have added a little chapel to the choir ; in the
windows whereof are the pictures of several of that
Ifwnily, drawn in the glass. At the upper end of
the choir, on the right side of the altar place, stands
the freedstool*, made of one entire stone, and said
to have been removed from Scotland ; with a well
of water behind it. At the upper end of the body,
of the church, next the choir, hangs an ancient
tablet, with the pictures of St. John and King
Athelstan, and this distich :
' Als free make I thee,
As heart can wish, or egh can see.' '
Hence, adds our author, the burgesses of Beverley
pay no toll or custom in any port or town of Eng-
land. The choir is paved with marble of four co-
lours. Over the altar is a magnificent wooden arch
supported by eight fluted Corinthian pillars. The
east window now contains all the painted glass
which could be collected from the others. The
screen, between the choir and the nave, is Gothic,
and is justly esteemed a principal ornament of the
edifice. At the lower end of the body of the church
stands a large font of agate stone. In 1664, a vault
•was discovered of free stone, in which was a sheet
of lead, containing the relics of St. John, with au
inscription, dated 1197, which imported that, the
church having been destroyed by fire, the ashes had
been for some time lost, but that at length they had
been found, and there deposited. They were con-
tained in a small leaden box, and consisted of a few
bones, six beads, some large nailsf and three brass
pins. The whole was piously replaced ; with an
appropriate inscription ; and, in 1726, the spot was
adorned wilh an arch of brick-work. — The church
of St. Mary is also a large and handsome structure ;
i and, like the minster, was destroyed, in 1-5-28, by
the fall of its steeple. It contains some monuments
and inscriptions ; but none of note. — -Beverley is a
corporate town, sends two members to parliament,
! and is governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, and
' thirteen of the principal burgesses. The whole
: number of these last is about 1200; and many per-
sons are induced to purchase this freedom, by the
privileges and immunities which it confers : among
these are extensive rights of pasture on four com-
mons, near the town ; and, as we have observed,
liberation from all tolls throughout the kingdom.
i Besides its churches, Beverley has the following
* This stone was inscribed thus : — Hsec sedes Lapidea
Freed-Stooledicitur. i.e. Pacis Cathedra ; ad quam reus I'ugi-
VOL. IV. — NO. 180.
endo perveniei)'', oimi: inoH:jn) habrt srciirilaliMii." li is said
lo have been removed tiiihcr from Diinb.'.r, in .Scotland.
6 2. public
YORKSHIRE.
public edifices and charitable institutions : flic II all-
garth, a beautiful and spacious hall, in which are
held the sessions, and a register-office 1'or deeds and
•wills ; an elegant market cross, supported by eight
columns ; each, one- entire piece of freestone ; a
common gaol, which was rebuilt about twenty-five
years since, with due attention to the suitable ac-
commodation of its inmates ; seven alms-houses,
with funds for the erection and support of two more ;
a work-house, which cost TOO/.; and, finally, an
excellent free-school, to the scholars of which are
appropriated two fellowships at St. John's. Cam-
bridge, six scholarships, and three exhibitions. The
trade of Beverley arises chiefly from the making of
malt, oat-meal, and leather : formerly it was some-
what celebrated for clothing. The vicinity of the
town, particularly towards the west, is rather pleas-
ing ; and commands several interesting prospects.
At the distance of three miles, is the moated site of
Lekiugfield House, which was demolished, proba-
bly, about the end of the Kith century.
BJRDSAL.] — At five miles S. E. from Malton, is
Birdsal, the seat of Lord Middleton, a spacious and
commodious residence, surrounded by agreeable
pleasure grounds, and a fine sporting country. At
the further distance of 3{ miles S. W. stands How-
sham Hall, the seat of II. Cholmley, Esq. the
materials for erecting which, were brought, chiefly,
from the ruins of Kirkham priory. Built in a deli-
cious valley, near the Derwent, and environed by
extensive plantations, this mansion forms a delight-
ful residence.
BRIDLINGTON.] — Bridlington is a market-town of
some importance, situated near the sea, at the dis-
tance of twenty miles from Scarborough, and forty
E.N. E. from Yor.k. Its site is the southern de-
clivity of a small hill, at the foot of which lie fer-
tile meadows, and a plain, extending to the ocean.
Here was founded, in the early part of the reign of
Henry I. a priory of Augustine monks ; which was
permitted by Ricliard I'l. to be fortified against in-
vasions by sea ; ant! received so many privileges
from several Pontiffs, as well as benefactions from
individuals, that, at its dissolution, the revenues
amounted to 547/. 0,?. Id. Tlie church was a noble
structure: much of it, as the two towers, the east
end, and the transept, has been demolished ; but the
remainder shews that it has been an edifice of the
most splendid Gothic magnificence. A large room
of the priory is used as a town-hall ; and some
gloomy cells serve as places of temporary confine-
ment. In the valley which skirts the town on the
south, stand the seats of Sir William Strickland,
Bart, and William Bosville, Esq. These houses,
though not large, are handsome ; and, the surround-
ing demesne being laid out in the best manner, form
pleasant residences. At a mile south-westward
from the town is Bessingby, the seat of Harrington
Hudson, Esq. which commands, by its elevated
site, an extensive and diversified prospect. Brid-
lington Quay lies at the distance of a mile from the
j town, and constitutes of itself a small town, well-
built and of lively appearance. The principal street
| is very wide, and extends to the harbour, which is
i formed by two piers, stretching far into the sea ;
and defended by two cross batteries from the shore
above and below the town. This bay is the safest
and most commodious anchoring place on the coast:
being sheltered from the north winds by Flaiubo-
rongh ; and protected on the east, in a considerable
degree, by the Smithick sand, which stretches south-
west ward from near that promontory. Bridlington
Quay has for some years been the resort of many noble
and respectable families ; having strong recommen-
dations, as a bathing place, in the goodness of the
shore, the cheapness and excellence of the provi-
sions, and other accommodations ; and the general
liveliness of its appearance.
BUBWITH.] — Bubwith, three miles northward from
Wressle, was the birth-place of Nicholas de Bub-
with, Bishop of Bath and Wells. It is remarkable,
also, for the salubrity of its air ; marked by the
ratio of mortality, which is not more than one in
forty-three. At this place abridge was lately thrown
across the Derwent.
BURTON AGNES. At Burton Agnes, the seat of
Sir Francis Boynton, the house, which was designed
by Inigo Jones, stands on the southern aspect of an
eminence, and commands an extensive view of the
level country at the foot of the wolds.
BURTON CONSTABLE.] — At nine miles N. W. from
Hull, is situated Burton Constable, the seat of
Francis Constable, Esq. on a flat, which is, how-
ever, agreeably diversified by some fine timber, and
an extensive sheet of water. The mansion is anci-
ent, with two superb fronts, and four embattled
towers ; while the magnificence of the interior is
in strict keeping with the outside. The entrance
hall, in particular, and a gallery, are spacious, and
adorned with the family escutcheons and pictures ;
with a great variety of mathematical instruments,
i a good library, a cabinet of natural curiosities ; and
four beautiful tables of black marble, richly inlaid.
The family of Constable is ancient ; and had, during
a long time, the title of Lords of Dunbar.
COTTINGHAM.] — At Cottingham, a pleasant well-
built village, at the southern foot of the wolds, many
merchants of Hull have country-seats, with gardens
and pleasure grounds, which give to the vicinage a
cultivated aspect. The church which is spacious,
handsome, and well-lighted, has a stately tower
rising from its centre ; and several elegant monu-
ments within Baynard castle, the seat of the Lords
Wake, who founded a monastery here, stood on a
lull westward from the town. This superb edifice
was accidentally destroyed by fire, in 1541 ; and
now its only remains are the double ditch and ram-
part, which formerly surrounded it. In Cottingham
parish are several intermitting springs. Fort)
years since the mansion of the Ellerkers, at Risby
was accidentally burned. Hullbank-house, a hand-
some stone building, approached by an avenue o
loft
YORKSHIRE.
551
lofty trees, is, like the villages of Dunswell and j
Newland, in the parish of Cottingham. The manor
of Cottingham was successively the property of the
Estotevilles and the Lords de Wake ; but is now j
much divided.
DIUFFIELD.]- On a fertile plain, at the foot of the
eastern wolds, twenty- nine miles E. by N. from
York, stands the pleasant market-town of Driffield,
which consists, chiefly, of one long and wide street.
Parallel to this, among straggling houses, and
through small inclostires of romantic beauty, runs :
a transparent stream ; which has been here made
navigable, to the greatly increased prosperity of the
place. By this channel, the corn of the neighbour-
hood, of which Driffield is the deputy and the pro-
duce of a cotton and carpet manufactory, three
miles lower, are conveyed to Hull. Driffield is
celebrated for the inhumation there of Alfred, a
Northumbrian king, who died in 705, of wounds
received in battle ; and whose remains, on their
examination, in 1784, were found entire, in a stone
coffin, with some pieces of steel armour. The spot
of re-interment was distinguished by a suitable in-
scription. At three miles, north-eastward from
Driffield, is a farm called Danes-dale, on which are
some barrows, universally called Danes' graves.
ESCRICK.] — Near the Ouse, six miles from York,
is Escrick, the seat of R. Thompson, Esq. in a level,
but well-wooded country ; and further to the south-
ward is Kelfield Hall, once the residence of the
Stillington family, now of B. Clarkson, Esq.
EVERINGHAM.] — At Everingham, the seat of Max-
well Constable, Esq. art has created a scene which
nature had denied to the level character of the soil.
The mansion is lofty, built of brick, with three
fronts ; between this and the gardens is a fine canal,
with an island of some extent ; and the demesne is
adorned with some rare specimens of antiquity.
Here is a portrait of Charles I. by Vandyke, valued
at 1000 guineas.
FILEY.] — The little fishing-town of Filey, which
is partly situated in the North Riding, in the bosom
of a spacious bay, is resorted to by many, for its
profound retirement, its smooth, firm, and extensive
beach, and the romantic beauty of its scenery. The
church, which is the detached portion, is divided
from the village by a ravine, twenty or thirty yards
deep. The inhabitants pursue fishing with great
vigour and success. The bay is remarkable for a
ridge of rocks, which projects from the northern
extremity, and affords great protection in stormy
weather.
FLAMBO ROUGH.] — The ancient town of Flam-
borough, situated in a hollow, near the centre of
the promontory, is, at present, reduced to a large
village, the population of which consists, for the
greater part, of fishermen, who are distinguished
as much for their spirit and adventurous activity, as
their profession is, for its dangers. They con-
fine themselves, however, chiefly, to their own
coasts ; seldom sending more than four boats to the
Yarmouth herring-fishery. The name has been
variously derived : by Camden from thejtame of a
watch tower ; by others, from the town, Flansburg, in
Anglocn of (he Jutes. Harold, the last of our Saxon
kings, possessed the manor ; after the Conquest, it
was given to William le Qros, who founded Scar-
borough castle ; and, in later times, it belonged to
the Constables, who flourished here during several
centuries. One member of this family, Sir Marma-
duke Constable, who was present at the battle of
Brankiston-field, is commemorated in the church
by a curious monumental inscription, which bears
this notice. But the battle could be no other than
Flodden Field ; for the inscription declares that
there " the King of Scottys was slain ;" and it is
known that Sir M. commanded the left wing in that
engagement. The church is ancient; and, at the
west end of the town, stands a ruin called the
Danish tower, of uncertain origin and history. A
beacon, called the new light-house, stands, at 400
yards from the extreme point of the promontory,
near the only spot, where a boat can land. It is
distinguished by three revolving faces, each of seven
reflectors, and one painted red : thus increasing
each alternate interval of exhibition, in hazy wea-
ther, from two to four minutes ; and distinguishing
this, from any other light in the kingdom. Nor is
Flamborough head the least remarkable object in
this neighbourhood. Rising in perpendicular cliffs
to a height of 100 or 150 yards, its grandeur, assisted.
by the snowy whiteness of its hue, is, in few places,
exceeded. At its base, it is perforated by the vio-
lence of the waves in several directions. Several
of these excavations have names ; as Dove Cote,
from the immense flocks of rock pigeons which it
shelters ; Kirk Hole, said to extend as far as beneath
the church ; and Robin Lyth's Hole, from its having
been the retreat of a pirate of that name. The last
has an opening on the land side ; and presents,
within, some of the most rugged and stupendous
features in nature. In summer the cliffs are the
rendezvous and the breeding-place, of myriads of
sea-fowl ; which contribute to the wild effect of the
scene. In a word, the vicinity of Flamborough and
Bridlington is a range of scenery, in which the
stupendous and the picturesque, in nature, are finely
blended, and often as strikingly contrasted.
GANTON.] — Ganton, situated little more than a
mile from Hunmanby, is the seat of] the ancient and
honourable family of Legard, to which belonged
• Legard, Esq. the late registrar of the
East Riding.
GODMANHAM.] — The small village of Godmanhara,
situated about a mile and a half N. E. from Market
Weighton, on the southern acclivity of the wolds,
was, according to Bede and others, the place of
heathen worship, destroyed by Coin, the high priest
of the idol, on the introduction of Christianity.
GRIMSTON GARTH.] — Grhnston Garth, situated on
the Holderness coast, is the seat of Thomas Grim-
ston, Esq. whose mansion, of a castellated form,
commands
552
YORKSHIRE.
commands on all sides tbe most extensive, and varied
prospect ; and displays in its architecture, much ot
the ancient style of baronial magnificence.
HARPHAM.] — flarpham, three miles southward
from Kilham, is related on the authority of Good-
win, and by popular tradition, to have been the
birth-place of Si. John of Beverley, archbishop of
York, in the 7th and 8th centuries. In the church,
is a vault, in which have been deposited, from the
Conquest till the present time, the mortal remains
of the St. Quintins. These are commemorated by
a series of mural inscriptions. Adjoining the church-
yard, are traces of the mansion ; as fish-ponds,
foundations, &c.
HF.SSLE.] — At Hessle, or Hassel, a village, situ-
ated near the Humber, and formerly the lordship of
the Estotevdles or Stutevilles, ship building is car-
ried on to a considerable extent, and from this
place to Barton is an ancient ferry. Westward,
stands H.esslewood House, the seat of Joseph Ro-
binson Pease, Esq.
HEDON.] — The market-town of Hedon, situated
eight miles E. from Hull, is more remarkable for
its pretensions to ancient greatness, than for its pre-
sent importance. The remains of two churches
shew, indeed, that it must have been populous ; at
a period prior to the destruction of its haven. But
that event, with its proximity to Hull, and a fire
vehich happened in 1656, combined, to its deca-
dence ; and, in the present day, Hedon is less in-
debted to commerce, than to agricultural skill and
spirit, for its share of prosperity. The town is small,
consisting, chiefly, of one street, in which the market
is held. It is, however, an ancient borough, and
enjoys the privilege of representation in the legis-
lative body, to which it deputes two members. Here
the members of the Holderness Agricultural Society
hold their meetings. As Hedon is no more than a
mile and a half from the Humber, a new haven has
been formed ; but it is navigable only for small
craft.
HEMINGBROUGH.] — The village of Hemingbrough,
situated four miles west from Wressle, is remarka-
ble for its church, which has a beautiful spire, in
height, forty-two yards above the battlements ;
forming a conspicuous landmark in this low and
level tract. Stukeley asserts that the Romans had
a fort here, and not without some appearance of
truth ; when we consider the advantages of the
situation. Babthorpe in this parish, was long the
seat of the ancient family of that name.
HOLME.]— The village of Holme, on .Spalding
Moor, five miles S. VV. from Market Weighton, has
been recently made the family residence of the
Honourable William Stourton. The plantations of
this gentleman extend to the summit of a hill, which
is remarkable for the abruptness of its appearance
in the middle of the vast level, stretching from the
Otsse to the wolds. It is scarcely less than forty
Minis in perpendicular height, and from the top
may be discerned Howden church, and York cathe-
dral. The estate was possessed by the Constables
of Flamborough, from whom it was purchased by
Sir Marmaduke Langdale, the first peer of that
name ; and on the death of the last it devolved on
his daughter, the wife of Lord Stourton. At the
northern foot of the hill resides the Dean of Peter-
borough, who is also rector of the parish. Besides
the parish church, which is built on the lofty sum-
mit of the hill, Holme has a chapel, which was
founded in 1349, by Sir Marmaduke Constable,
for the health of his soul and the souls of others.
HORNSEA.] — The small market-town of Hornsea,
situated within half a mile of the coast, is nearly
(Mini-distant from Hull and Bridlington. Sealed in
a valley, formed by rising grounds- on the north and
south, it has, on the west, a piece of water ; one of
the few lakes in the county. Hornsea mere is in
length 1J miles, and in area about 436 acres. The
town consists of four straggling streets, and a mar-
ket place of considerable size. At some distance,
on the south-west side of the mere, is Wassand, the
seat of Marmaduke Constable, Esq. who, by atten-
tion to plantation and consequent improvement of
the scenery, has rendered it a pleasant rural retreat.
At Rise, five miles to the southward, is a seat, which
formerly belonged to the noble family of Faucon-
berg, now possessed by Mrs. Bethel.
HOWDEN.] — Situated about a mile and a half
northward from the Ouse, nearly at the extremity
of the Riding, and 21 miles S. E. by S. from York,
is the ancient town of Howden, remarkable, chiefly,
for its church, and the remains of an ancient palace
of the bishops of Durham. The Conqueror gave
the church and manor to the see of Durham, to
which the latter still belongs. The church was ap-
propriated, in the 13th century, to the support of
six prebends, whose revenues, at the Dissolution,
amounting to 101/. 18s. ; were granted by Eliza-
beth to two laics, their heirs and assigns, for ever.
In consequence of this ablation, the choir fell gra-
dually to decay ; and, the roof of the chancel having
fallen in, the east end of the church now exhibits
the appearance of a magnificent and venerable ruin.
Originally, this sacred edifice was cruciform, with
an elegant tower, 45 yards high, rising from the
centre. The nave, which is 105 feet long, is sepa-
rated from the side aisles by ten regular pillars, which
are composed of a cluster of four cylinders, with
octangular capitals, and support pointed arches.
The transept is 117 feet long, and 30 broad. All
the windows have pointed arches and tracery. The
length of the ruinous part is 120 feet, by 66 in
breadth ; on each side, are six windows, divided by
beautiful pilasters, ornamented with capitals of
pierced work ; and, at the east end, is a centre
window, eight paces in breadth. The most curious,
and once the most elegant part oi Howden church,
is the chapter-house, an octagon of superb architec-
ture, containing thirty seats, separated by clustered
pilasters of various members. These have foliated
capitals of pierced work, from which rises rich
tabernacle
YORKSHIRE.
553
tabernacle work, formed to decorate the Gothic
arches. The seats are canopied, in imitation of a
groined and ribbed arch, terminating1 at the centre
in a knot ; and below the canopy, each seat is carved
in rose work. The windows are seven in number,
eacli of three lights, under pointed arches, with
light and elegant tracery ; and above the door are
niches for statues, canopied and garnished with
tabernacle-work. The whole is constructed of fine
and durable free- stone; and was surmounted by a
beautiful octangular spire of stone, which fell in,
on St. Stephen's Day, 1750. The building of the
tower, is ascribed by all authorities to Walter Skir-
law, Bishop of Durham, in the fourteenth century ;
but there is little probability, that, as some assert,
it was intended as an asylum from inundation. The
precise period when Howden church was founded is
not even guessed at ; the present structure seems
to have been erected on the site of a former one; and
it is probable, that, as the Gothic style of building
had been recently adopted when the prebends were
endowed in 1267, the church was finished about that
time, excepting the steeple and chapter-house, which
were built by Walter Skirlaw, in the 14th century.
A distinguished native of Howden was Roger de
Hoveden, chaplain to Henry II. The palace
of the Bishop of Durham, alter being suffered to
fall to disgraceful decay, has been, at length, con-
verted into a farm-house. The country betwe'en
Howden and the. Ouse and Derwent, and along the
banks of both those rivers, was formerly adorned
by the seats of several ancient families ; among
whom were the Tysons of Gunby, whose estate fell
by marriage <o the lords Vesci ; the Fitz-Peters,
whose possessions fell, in like manner, to the Haies
and Vavasours ; the Akeroyds of Foggathorpe,
whose moated residence was taken down in 17-43;
the Cavils, the Portingtons, the Methams and the
Saltmarshes, of places which bore respectively the
same appellations ; and the Percys, Earls of North-
umberland, whose famous castle of Wressel, or
Wressle, was the chief ornament of the neighbour-
hood. This relic of feudal greatness is situated
about four miles from Howden, on a gently rising
ground, two hundred yards from the Derwent. Le-
* The following extract from the household book of the
Percys, exhibits a curious display of the magnificence of our
ancient nobility ; tt is a l«it of the domestic establishment.
" Gentlemen who wait befove noon, six: yeomen and grooms
of the chamber who wait before noon, ten : yeomen officers,
four: groom officer*, four ; servants to wait in the great cham-
ber in the morning from six till ten o'clock, twenty : gentle-
men to wait in the afternoon, seven : yeomen of the chamber,
yeomen waiters, and grooms of the chamber to wait in the
afternoon, seven : yeomen officers of the household to wait in
the afternoon, four : gentlemen to wait after supper, thirteen :
yeomen of the chamber, yeomen waiters and groom officers
and grooms of the chamber to wait after supper, seventeen :
yeomen of the household and groom officers of the household,
which shall not attend after supper, eight : chaplains and priests,
eleven: gentlemen and children of the chapel attending daily
at matins, lady mass, high mass, and evening song, seventeen ;
yeomen officers, groom officers, and grooms in household, not
VOL. IV. — NO. 180.
land ascribes i(s foundation to Thomas Percy, Earl
of Worcester, in the lime of Richard II., and de-
scribes it, as built of very large squared stones, in
the form of a quadrangle, with five towers, and a
moat on throe sides. Here the Earls of Northum-
berland displayed all that magnificence which was
in those days scarcely inferior to that of the royal
courts. The chief-officers of the household were
gentlemen both by birth and office ; the number of
priests maintained for the offices of religion was not
less than eleven ; and there was a complete esta-
blishment of singers, choristers, &c. for the service
of the chapel.* But the civil dissent ions of the
17th century proved fatal to this magnificent edifice.
It was garrisoned by the parliamentarian army, who,
though the Earl was their partisan, levied contri-
butions, and committed damages, to the amount of
42,554/. ; and, in 1650, an order was issued for the
demolition of three sides of the quadrangle ; the
throwing down of the battlements ; and the forma-
tion of windows, eight feet high, and as many broad
in the remaining side, thus rendering it an untena-
ble port. The south side alone, which contained
some of the principal state rooms, was left stand-
ing to serve as a manor-house; but after this work
of demolition Wressel casdc was not long occupied
as the mansion of its lords. It was inhabited
as a farm-house, till 1790, when an accidental fire
completed its destruction ; and the naked walls are
now the only remains of this noble monument of
feudal grandeur. The present. Earl of Egrement,
descended on the female side from the Percys, is the
actual proprietor.
HULL.]— The town of Hull, 39 miles S. E. by E.
from York, and 175 N. from London, so called
from its situation on the river of that nnme, but
distinguished in all public writings by the appella-
tion of Kingston, claims no earlier date than the
latter part of the 13th century. Its origin is well
known. King Edward I. returning from one of his
northern expeditions, honoured Lord Wake, ot'Cot-
tingham, with a visit. Hunting, one day, he came
to the spot where Hull now stands, then occupied by
two small hamlets, called Myton and Wike. He
immediately saw the advantages of the site for a for-
appointed to attend because of their other business which they
attend daily in their offices in the house, twenty--;evi n : an ar-
mourer : a groom of the chamber to the Lord Percy to wait
hourly in his chamber : a second groom for brushing and dress-
ing his clothes: a groom of the chamber to his lordship's two
youngest sons : a groom of the stirrup: a groom sumpler man
to dress the sumpter horses and my lady's palfreys : a groom to
dress the hobbys and nags : agioomto keep the hound* : a
groom miller for grindiug corn for baking and brewing: a
groom porter for keeping the gates ; a groom for driving his
lordship's chariot : a keeper of the chariot horses ; clerks of the
hoii>ehold not appointed daily to attend because of making
their books, which they are charged with to write upon hourly,
seven : servants belonging to gentlemen in his lordship's house,
ten: servants and gentlemen servants not appointed to wait be-
cause of their other business which they attend on daily for his
lordship, forty-four: in all two hundred and twenty-nine."
Savage's History of Bessie Castle.
7 A
YORKSHIRE.
tified town ; and? having obtained possession of the
ground from the abbot of Meaux, lie issued procla-
mation, offering great privileges and immunities to
settlers. He also caused a manor-house to be erec-
ted for himself; and, in 1290, the harbour being
finished, constituted the infant establishment a free
borough. It was not without reason that the most
glorious of our English monarchs selected this situ-
ation for the projected town : in that day, it was a
place of great strength, and was justly considered
one of the keys of the kingdom being defended on
the north-east by the Hull ; on the south by the
Humber ; and on the land side by the nature of the
country, which might be easily laid under water to
the extent of several miles. Hull became almost
immediately a town of some importance. In the
following reign of Edward II. it was adorned with
the large ami stately church of the Holy Trinity,
to the building of which the monarch contributed
largely ; the paving of the streets was begun ; and
strong fortifications, consisting of a ditch, a wall
of stone, strong castles and towers, were completed.
In this reign also, the jurisdiction of a warden, esta-
blished by Edward I. was changed to that of a grand
bailiff, as more honourable. In the next reign, the
monastery of St. Augustine was founded ; and,
little more than twenty years after the building of
the town, the inhabitants had greatly enriched
themselves by their trade to Iceland for stock-fish.
At this period flourished William de la Pole, a native
of Ravenspur, who removed thence to Hull, where
lie carried on an extensive commerce, and acquired
immense wealth. This highly respectable charac-
ter, who was the great progenitor of the earls and
dukes of Suffolk, having entertained Edward III.
and his court, with great magnificence, was by him
knighted ; and, the form of the municipal govern-
ment being again changed, constituted the first
mayor. Nor did the Hood of prosperity stop here :
having assisted the King with supplies of money for
the French expedition, he was rewarded with the
seignory of Holderness, made first gentleman of
the bed chamber, and, at length, Chief Baron of the
Exchequer. In this high station, he obtained for
the town of Hull, an extension of its privileges
and immunities ; founded a monastery and hospital
there ; and, he having died? in 1356, his son began
to erect a stately and superb palace. This son,
Michael de la Pole, was made by Richard II. Lord
Chancellor, and created Earl of Suffolk ; but, hav-
ing been enabled, by virtue of his numerous places,
and as some assert, by peculation in his offices, to
amass great wealth, and to erect not only the palace
already mentioned, but also three other splendid and
magnificent houses, his removal and punishment
•were demanded by his enemies ; and, after several
reverses, he retired into France, and died at Paris,
in 1388. His son, however, was restored- to the
titles and estates of his father. Such was the origin
of a family which made a conspicuous figure in the
history of those days ; and which continued to give
solid marks of their attachment to a place that might
be regarded as the primary source of their import-
ance. During the reign ottlie third E'dward, Hull
had attained considerable rank as a maritime place ;
its quota of ships having been sixteen, when even
London furnished no more than twenty-five ; and in
1369 was founded the guild of the Holy Trinity, for
the relief of distressed mariners and their widows.
Since its foundation, the inhabitants of Hull had
felt great inconvenience from the deficiency of fresh
water ; and continued disputes had arisen with the
neighbouring towns about the necessary supply.
To remedy this, commissioners were appointed by
the King, who determined that a canal, forty feet
1 in breadth, should be cut from Anlaby spring, at the
distance of 4-£ miles ; denouncing severe punish-
ment against those who should presume to obstruct
the advancement of the work. Notwithstanding
this injunction, the disputes continued ; combina-
tions of disorderly persons, with frequent contests,
| were the consequence ; and at length, a regular
! siege and blockade were undertaken for the destruc-
! tion of the town. The leaders, however, being ap-
! prehended, temporary tranquillity was restored.
j Hull is remarkable at this period as the place where
i was revived the art of making bricks, of which
I material the palace of the De la Poles was chiefly
constructed. After the descent of the Duke of Lan-
caster, at [lavenspur, he was refused admission into
Hull, by the then mayor, who put the town into a
j posture of defence ; which loyal behaviour, the
Duke, on his elevation to the throne, was so far
from resenting, that he renewed and confirmed the
charter of the town, and issued a new commission
for the supply of fresh water. The contests on this
head had been again revived, and it was not till after
the severe punishment of some of the delinquents,
and the interference of the church ; that peace was
restored. In 1414, Henry V. granted to the town a
charter, fully confirming all its privileges ; in return
for which, he was furnished with a large supply of
ships and men for his French expedition. In the
18th Henry VI. the corporation received the form
which it still preserves : the municipal government
being placed in the hands of a mayor, sheriff, and
twelve aldermen ; and the town being constituted,
with its precincts, a county of itself. This was
made to comprise the towns and parishes of Hessle,
North Feniby, Swanland, West Ella, Kirk Ella,
Franby, Willerby, Wooferton, and Anlaby, with
all the site of the abbey of Haltemprises. Another
charter of this monarch granted, that the mayors of
Hull should have the sword carried erect before
I them ; that the mayor and aldermen should have a
cap of maintenance, and wear scarlet gowns and
hoods lined with furs; and that the town should be
divided into six wards, each under the jurisdiction
of two aldermen. These benefits secured the lasting
gratitude of the inhabitants ; and in the latter part
of the unfortunate Henry's reign, they continued,
through all changes, firm and unshaken in their fide-
lity
YORKSHIRE.
553
lity to his cnuse. At the hattlc of Wakefield screen,
was *lain Richard Hanson, (he mayor, who had
man-lied to join the Queen at tlie head of as many
troops as h« could readily collect. To discharge
the debts, contracted by the performance of these
,services, tlie market cross, a large and stately struc-
ture, covered with a great quantity of lead, a:id
erected only thirty-five years before, was taken
down, and tlie materials were sold. On all suc-
ceeding occasions, during the course of this unhappy
contest, the spirit manifested by the town of Hull,
was strictly consistent with its former professions.
In 1472, it was visited by the plague, which, with
occasional intermission, carried off half the inhabi-
tants, and three mayors ; reducing the town to a
roost deplorable condition ; all the churches, monas-
teries, hospitals, schools, &c. being shut up ; and
the streets so little frequented that grass grew in
the crevices of the pavement. After this calamitous
event, the affairs of Hull glided smoothly on, in
successful and increasing commerce, during the
reigns of Richard HI. and Henry VII., in which
scarcely a memorable transaction occurred ; if we
except the confiscation of the palace and estates of
the De la Poles, on the attainder of the last Earl of
Suffolk. In the following reign, so great was the
discontent excited by the Suppression, that, in order
to allay it, some of the monasteries were refound-
ed. In the rebellion which broke out in 1537, the
insurgents took Hull by a stratagem; but, after
keeping possession for a month, were surprised by
the mayor and towns-people at midnight, tried, and
executed ; and their leader, the self elected governor,
was hanged in chains. In 1511, Hull was visited
by the king, who gave orders for the erection of a
castle, and two strong block-houses, and directed
that a new ditch should be cut from Newland to tlie
town. On the accession of Edward VI. that young
monarch refounded the hospitals of the Charter-
House, Greggs', Riplinghum, and the Trinity-
House ; and, in consideration of the loyalty of the,
burgesses, granted to them the entire lordship of
the manor, with all the jurisdiction and profits. —
The low situation of the town had ever subjected it
to inundation ; and, in 1571, the tides of the Hum-
ber flooded it to such a depth that the inhabitants
were driven to their upper rooms ; and sustained a
severe loss of household goods, and merchandize.
This calamity was followed, in 1576, by the depre-
dations of numerous pirates, who infested the Hum-
ber and the adjacent coast, to the great annoyance
of the merchants of Hull ; but who were dispersed
by two ships of war, which the lofd high-admiral
required the town to equip for their own protection.
Hull was steady in its attachment to the government
of Elizabeth ; and, supplied her, during tlie Spanish
war, with a loan' of six hundred pounds ; in consi-
deration of which, and of other services, she con-
ferred several marks of royal favour in the confir-
mation, and extension of their privileges and im-
munities. James I. granted, or rather sold, to the
corporation of Hull, a charter, empowering the
mayor, recorder, and aldermen, to chuse an assistant
preacher in the church of the Holy Trinity. This
charter, which they did not want, cost them the
sum of 6bO/. ; and, as this was almost the only
thing that James ever did for Hull, the town was
very little obliged to him for his benefactions. In
1613, three skilful engineers were employed by the
magistrates to supply the town with fresh water, by
means of engines and pipes ; which work they per-
formed in three years, to the incalculable benefit of
the inhabitants. During the difficulties of the un-
fortunate Charles, which preceded his open rupture
with the Parliament, the town and county of Hull
was distinguished for its loyalty : readily furnishing,
in 1627, its quota of ships for the French war ; and
even submitting to the payment of tonnage and
poundage, which the merchants of London had
resisted. In 1635, and the three succeeding years,
this opulent town was brought to the verge of de-
struction, by the ravages of the plague, which car-
ried off five thousand persons: about one half -of
its whole population. In 1659, the king, advancing
in his Scottish expedition for the suppression of the
Solemn League and Covenant, was received at
Hull with great splendour and ceremoney ; viewed
the town, and carefully inspected the fortifications.
A vast magazine of arms and military stores, had
been deposited there ; two strong bulwarks had been
formed on the garrison side ; and on the south side
of the town, a large rampart of earth had been
cast up, with port holes, for cannon, to defend the
mouth of the harbour. These circumstances induced
the King, when civil hostilities became inevitable,
to desire the possession of Hull : lie accordingly
sont thither the Earl of Newcastle to secure it to
his interest, but the corporation, perceiving the un-
certain state of affiiirs, demurred, till they received
a letter from the Parliament, commanding them to
receive Sir John Hotham for their governor. The
town was divided ; but a letter in which its repre-
sentative, Sir Henry Vane, pourtrayed the King in
a very unfavourable manner ; and even obliquely
charged him with an intention of subjecting the
nation to a foreign power, threw the inhabitants into
the greatest consternation. Additional fortifications
were made ; the people were armed ; and a strong
guard was appointed. Notwithstanding these mea-
sures, and the readiness of the corporate body to
acknowledge tl»e supremacy of the Parliament, they
refused to admit Sir John Hotham, until an order
was sent to the mayor to resign the government of
the town into his hands, on pain of high treason.
The King resided at York, and anxious, as before,
to secure this, the greatest magazine and strongest
fortress in his kingdom, he resolved to go thither in
person, hardly supposing that Hotham would pre-
sume to oppose his entrance. Accordingly, on tlie
23d of April, 1612, his Majesty left York, attended
by a train of two or three hundred servants, and
many gentlemen of the county, and approaching
Hull,
YORKSHIRE.
Hull, sent forward an officer to inform the governor
that he intended to dine with him ; which intimation
Hotham answered, hy declining the intended visit,
" since the governor could not, without betraying
the trust remitted to him, open the gates to so great
a train as his Majesty was attended with." This
contumacy, Hotham seconded, by ordering the
bridges to be drawn up, the gates to be shut, the
inhabitants to be confined to their houses, and the
soldiers to stand to their arms round the walls. All
attempts of his Majesty, either by promises or
threats, to obtain entrance, having proved ineffec-
tual ; although Hotham, on his knees, wished that
" God might bring confusion upon him and his if
he were not a faithful and loyal subject ;" the King
retired to Beverley, ordering two heralds to pro-
claim the governor a traitor, and all who obeyed him
guilty of high treason. The King made one more
useless attempt, and then, " grievously disappoint-
ed, returned to York." The Parliament caused the
magazine of Hull to be removed for greater secu-
rity to London ; the King on the other hand issued
a proclamation, forbidding his subjects, under pain
of high treason, to give any assistance to Sir John
Hotham, or to convey either money, arms, ammu-
nition, or provisions into Hull. Having mustered
about 3000 foot, and 800 horse, he advanced to Be-
verley, where he summoned the trained-bands of the
neighbourhood ; and Hotham, on the other hand, for
his greater security, inundated the country on every
side of the town to the extent of two miles. He also
began to erect a fort, which might command the only
avenue to the town. Meanwhile the King was not
inactive ; but employed 200 men to divert the stream
of the Hull, which supplied the town with fresh
•water ; and erected two forts ; one at Paul, east-
ward, the other at Hessle cliff, westward from the
town, to command the Humher. To meet these
preparations, the Parliament gave orders that some
ships of war should scour the Humber ; that 500
men should be sent to Hull, by sea ; and that 1500
more should follow as soon as they could be equip-
ped. These recruits, with a considerable sum of
money, and great store of provisions, arrived about
the middle of July in the Humber; and, passing
the fort at Paul, without damage, landed safely at
Hull. The siege being begun, reports, equally
ridiculous as false, were circulated to exasperate
the people against, the King ; and Sir John Mel-
drum, who had been sent to assist the governor,
made a vigorous sally, in which the first blood was
spilled in this unhappy contest. Shortly after, the
garrison drove the royalists out of Anlaby, and de-
stroyed a barn, in which was the King's ammuni-
tion ; which disasters so disheartened his Majesty,
that he began to think seriously of retiring. But
a reason stronger, than the hope of a successful
result by force of arms, detained the king : Sir John
Hotham, inclining to return to his allegiance, con-
certed with Lord Digby a plan for delivering up
the town to his Majesty ; which was, however, either
by his own inconstancy or his inability to execute it,
soon rendered abortive. A series of the most ap-
palling misery succeeded ; the property of the. Kind's
friends in the town was confiscated ; the whole sur-
rounding country on both sides of the Humber and
the Hull was plundered ; and all these misfortunes
were aggravated by the treachery of partisans.
Hotham and his son were at length secured, by
command of the parliament, and beheaded on Tower
Hill eighteen months after. Meanwhile, Lord Fair-
fax was appointed governor of Hull, and the town
was a second time invested by the royalists. The
siege and defence were conducted with all the mili-
tary skill of that age, and with the most deter-
mined resolution. The Marquis of Newcastle cut
off the supplies of fresh water and provisions;
erected several batteries ; and constructed a fort
from which he fired red-hot balls. Lord Fairfax
strengthened the batteries, demolished the king's
forts, and on the 14th September ordered the banks
of the Humber and the Hull to be cut, by which
the county was again laid under water. The be-
sieging army nevertheless continued their works ;
but the ships of war, which the Parliament had sta-
tioned in the Humber, demolishing their forts, the
attempt to cut off supplies proved ineffectual. On
the 9th of October, the royalists madetwo determined
assaults on different sides of the town, at the same
time, both of which were unsuccessful. The last
operation of importance was a sortie made by Lord
Fairfax and 1500 men, on the llth October. This
completely succeeded : the royalists, being driven
from their works, and their cannon turned against
them, though they fought with great courage, were
forced to retire, and the Marquis of Newcastle, hear-
ing of the defeat of his party at Horncastle, called
a council of war, in which it was decided that the
siege should be immediately raised. Notwithstand-
ing the distresses to which this contest had subjected
the inhabitants of Hull, they received no compen-
sation, their petition for temporary relief from taxa-
tion even being rejected ; the parliament replying,
that, in a time of public calamity, no attention could
be paid to particular sufferings. From this time,
Hull, no longer distinguished by an active partici-
pation in the events of the period, enjoyed a state
of comparative repose ; and it welcomed, with re-
joicing, the Restoration of Charles II. to the throne
j of his ancestors. In 1661, that prince confirmed
I the town charter, and annexed to it several valuable
! privileges. In 1680 he directed the foundation of
| a strong citadel ; the expence of erecting which was
estimated at I OO.OOO/. At the Revolution, an attempt
[ was made, by Lord Langdale, to secure Hull for
the King ; but defeated by the Protestant officers
of the garrison, who apprehended him and all his
partisans. Since that period, the inhabitants of
Hull have maintained a character of unshaken loy-
alty; which was particularly exemplified in 1745,
when the fortifications were renewed, and volunteers
raised for the defence of the crown, by the principal
gen-
YORKSHIRE.
567
gentlemen and merchants of the place, who them-
selves laboured incessantly at the works till they
were completed. The year 1768 was the commence-
ment of u new nera in the history of Hull. The in-
habitants had been the first in the kingdom who
equipped vessels for the whale fishery. From the
first undertaking of this lucrative pursuit till the
year 1765, it had been gradually declining ; and was
at the latter period almost monopolized by the
Dutch. But the enterprising spirit of Mr. Stand-
idge, a merchant of Hull, redeemed so valuable a
branch of commerce. At first, he sent out one
ship, which, returning with many seals, he conceived
the idea of turning their skins to greater profit than
had hitherto been done. For this purpose, he caused
them to be tanned, and made into shoes : thus in-
creasing their value nearly twenty times. Next
year, stimulated by success, he dispatched two
ships for the Greenland fishery ; and his example
exciting emulation, more vessels were fitted out, not
only from Hull, but also from Whitby, Newcastle,
Liverpool, and .London.* The water-works of
Hull, which had before 1773 been wrought by horses,
were then considerably extended, and began to be
moved by a steam engine. In 1792, a further ex-
tension took place ; and in the present day, the in-
habitants are abundantly supplied, with the pure
element in their own kitchens. — The situation of
Hull at a point where the river Hull discharges
itself into the Hnmber, forms a commodious and
safe harbour ; and where the high-flowing of the
tides enabled the largest vessels, formerly used, to
lie close to the shore, fully justifies the choice of
the politic and enterprising founder. On the land
side it might, from the lowness of the soil, as has
been often proved, be rendered impregnable, by in-
undating the country. Happily its advantages as a
military station are almost no longer regarded ; the
walls and ditches have been levelled ; and Hull is
now an open town ; presenting on every side docks
filled with ships, the vehicles of an extensive and
extending commerce. The walls of Hull were 2810
yards, or a little less than a mile and a half in cir-
cuit ; but since their demolition the town lias been
greatly enlarged on the northern and western sides.
The oldest part of Hull is the High Street, which
extends to a length of about 1000 yards from the
Hnmbor, along the banks of the Hull. Though it
is narrow, incommodious, and disagreeable, the
houses belong for the most part to opulent mer-
chants ; and some of them are very elegant ; many
are, however, constructed of wood and plaster, and
* Not his own country alone felt the effects of the enter-
prising genius of this gentleman. In 1709, when the court of
St. Petersburg!), thru engaged in a war with Turkey t was pre-
paring to send a fleet into the Mediterranean, Mr. S. con-
ceiving thai the admiralty of Russia might find themselves em-
barrassed in procuring transports for the stores, troops, &c.
made an offer of his three ships for that service. At the same
time he informed the board, thai, through his connections, the
impress might be supplied with any number of transports that
VOL. IV. — NO. 181.
present a mean appearance. About the middle of
this street is the custom-house, once the exchange ;
on the east side, many stairs, orstaiths, run to the
river ; and from the west, several streets branch, at
right angles, to Lowgate and the market-place.
The Intter form one line, nearly parallel to the High
Street. Lowgate is a broad, well built street ; and,
beginning at the quay, is well situated for trade. On
the west side of this, nearly opposite to St. Mary's
church, stood the magnificent palace of the Dukes
of Suffolk. The market-place, continuing in the
same right line, is a spacious street, of elegant
private dwellings, and respectable shops, near the
south end of which, stands a fine equestrian statue
of William III. by Scheemaker. Myton Gate is a
spacious and 'well-built street, reaching from the
market-place to the west side of the town. Silver
Street branches from Lowgate and the market-place
at their junction ; and, with Whitefriars-gate, a
broad, airy, and elegant street, makes a line to that
extremity of the town, where formerly stood Bever-
ley gate. From these branch several streets, which
are for the most part, well-built, straight, and regu-
lar; though it must be confessed that there are
many alleys which are narrow, dirty, and disagree-
able ; — the wretched abodes of vice and extreme
poverty. On the whole, it may be observed, that
the town is well-built ; and laid out with consider-
able attention to regularity. The most general
material is brick ; the streets are well paved, and
often flagged ; many private buildings display great'
neatness and even elegance of architecture ; th«
suburbs are continually encreasing ; and on the
west as well as the north side, there are several new
streets. But it is on the northern side that the town
has received its greatest extension as well as im-
provement. Several streets, as West and Mill
Streets, are handsome, straight, and regular ; and,
some, Story Street, Albion, Bond, Saville, George,
Charlotte, and Dock Streets, are laid out even in
u magnificent style; and display beautiful ranges
of houses. To this scene of ornamented elegance,
are contrasted the contiguous parts of the parish of
Sculcoatcs : especially Wincolmlee, <t long narrow,
irregular, and dirty street, extending more than a
mile, along the western ^bank of the Hull. This
may properly be called the workshop of Hull;
being, from its situation, one of the most busy
streets in the town. The animated scene exhibits
several oil and flour mills, wrought by steam, or
the wind ; in the vicinity are ship yards, and dry
docks, a large brewery, several potteries, an iron
were wanted^ The proposal was agreed to ; and Mr. S. wa* »
commissioned to charter tifly large ships on the same terms as "
are allowed by the British navy board. It is well known that
this enterprise was crowned by the total annihilation of the
Turkish fleet, and a consequent peace, very advantageous to
Russia. Thus a merchant of Hull had no small share in facili-
tating an expedition which crowned the impi-rial Catherine
with laurels ; and shines with distinguished luslure in the annals
of Russia.
7 B foundery,
558
YORKSHIRE.
foundery, tar-houses, and a sugar-house ; and larse ,;
quantities of bricks are made in the parish ; for hoth
domestic and commercial purposes. The bridge,
over the Hull, 'commonly called the Nortli Bridge,
consists of two handsome arches of tine free-stone,
founded on piles ; and a draw-bridge, in the middle, ••
Near this stood one of the block houses, erected by
Henry VIII., the walls of which were of brick \
strongly cemented, and eighteen feet in thickness, j
On the east side of the river, are some large fac-
tories and several mills ; from the bridge, a smooth
gravel walk extends, nearly three quarters of a mile,
to theHumber ; and, at the acute angle formed by j
the junction of the two rivers, is an entrance to the |
citadel, close by the south block-house. Here a |
formidable battery faces the (lumber ; the magazine ,
is well stored ; and the garrison consists, in peace,
of some companies of invalids. — The churches of !
Hull are St. Mary's, St. John's, and that of the ;
Holy Trinity. The last, a complete specimen of
Gothic architecture, is large and well porportioned :
its entire length being 272 feet ; -its breadth, 72 ;
and its height from the ground to the top of the
pinnacles 147|. The tower springs from the centre j
of the transept, and is supported by four strong
arches. The cross aisle is separated from the nave
by large doors ; and from the chancel by folding-
gates. The roof is supported by slender and ele-
gant columns ; from which spring five Gothic arches
on each side. Four large chandeliers of twenty-
four branches each, are suspended from the ceiling;
the walls are adorned with a variety of elegant and
costly ornaments ; and, over the altar, is a masterly
painting of the Last Supper, by Parmentter. On
the south side of the choir, a room which was for-
merly a chapel has been converted into a library ;
and near this apartment, beneath an arch in the
wall, lie two effigies, generally supposed to be those
of Michael de la Pole, the first earl, and his lady. —
The church of St. Mary, built about twenty-one
years after the foundation of that of the Holy Tri-
nity, fA.D. 1333,) was then, in a great degree, more
magnificent than it is at present. The deteriora-
tion resulted from its almost entire demolition by
Henry VIII. for the improvement of his prospect,
during his residence at Hull. It was restored in
the reign of Elizabeth, but long remained without
a steeple, which was at length added in 1690-7. —
St. John's church, erected in 1791-2, is in form, a
parallelepiped. Built with brick, and roofed with
blue slate, it is ornamented with a stone cornice, a
plain vase at each of its angles, and at the east end
•with a small turret, in which hangs one bell. Within
it is well finished, and capacious enough to contain
* 1200 persons. The whole edifice is built upon
arches, seven feet high ; and, beneath, ore more than
seventy vaults for the reception of the dead. — Other
places of public worship are several chapels for dis-
senters, a catholic chapel, and a synagogue. — The
work of education is conducted in a good grammar
school, founded in 1486, by the Rev. John Alcock,
who was successively Bishop of Rochester, and Ely;
in three free-schools, which were established by the
beneficence of individuals, during the last century ;
anil in a Lancasterian school, established in 1818.
Hull may also boast of one of the best subscription
libraries in England, north of the Humber ; and
the establishment of a museum has been commenced
by the collection of many valuable curiosities ;
among which are all kinds of fire arms and other
weapons of war, a dagger of Tamerlane, a sword
of lite Black Prince, another of Henry III. and
one which General Fail-fax wore at the battle of
Naseby. — The charitable institutions of Hull are
numerous. The Trinity House, a guild established
in 1309, by subscription, for the reception of de-
cayed seamen, their wives, or widows ; and since
enriched by numerous donations, is governed by a
corporation of twelve elder brothers and six assis-
tants, from the former of whom two wardens and
two stewards are chosen annually. In the house,
which is quadrangular, are several objects worthy
of notice ; as, a fine portrait of George III. ; two
curious boats brought from the North seas ; the
model of a ship of war, of 74 guns; and a neat
model of a draw-bridge in Holland. The Charter
House, founded by Michael de la Pole, the first
Earl, was refounded by Edward VI. It had been
demolished in 1042, and was rebuilt at the end of
the war ; but the present edifice of brick, covered
with blue slates, was erected in J780. In addition
to these must be mentioned Greg's Hospital, Lis-
ter's, Crowle's, Gee's, Watson's, Harrison's, Wea-
ver's, and RatcM'e's ; all bearing the names of their
j respective founders ; and Charity Hall, a spacious
I and commodious edifice for the accommodation of
' the parish poor ; who are under the immediate
1 government of the corporation. In Hull are, also,
< more than forty clubs, in which five or six thousand
! individuals create funds for their common benefit.
! The General Infirmary, a handsome building for
! the reception of the sick and lame poor, is a noble
j monument of the benevolence of the inhabitants of
; Hull. In this edifice, laudable attention is paid to
j ventilation and cleanliness ; and its economy is con-
ducted on a principle which extends its utility to the
relief of the whole community, almost without dis-
tinction.— The improvements made at Hull during
1 the last half century, for the reception of shipping,
have, in a great measure, changed the appearance of
the place. In 1774, an act was obtained for the for-
mation of a dock capacious enough for 80 ships ;
within the present century, acts have been passed
for the construction of two other docks, capable of
holding 70 and 60 sail of ships respectively ; and
all these works have attained their completion. The
first, which extends from the Hull gate, to Beverley
gate was completed with its quay, in four years, and
; is in area ten acres, while the quay covers a surface
of three acres and a quarter.
j The Humber Dock, which extends from the Hum
: ber, northward, covers an area of seven acres, am
i
YORKSHIRE.
is of sufficient dep.th to admit ships of war of fifty
guns. It has been already observed, that the whale-
fishery forms a principal source of the commerce of
Hull : indeed, the merchants of that place send out
a far greater number of ships than those of any
other port in England, London excepted. During
.the last twenty year$, 40 appears, to have been the
average number. It is also the grand depot for the
surperttuous produce of the surrounding country.
The manufactures of Leeds, Wakefield, Hudders-
field, and Halifax ; the lead of Derbyshire and Not-
tinghamshire ; the butter of the E. and N. Ridings ;
the cheese of Staffordshire, Warwickshire, and
Cheshire; and the corn of all, find here a channel
for exportation ; and, in return, these districts are
supplied with iron, copper, hemp, flax, canvas,
Muscovy linen and yarn, from the shores of the
Baltic ; with wine, linen, oil, and fruit, from Hol-
land, France, and Spain ; and, from the West
Indies, with tobacco and sugar. The various changes
undergone by the corporate body of Hull have
already been enumerated. It remains to observe,
that it received its present form from Henry VI. by
whose charter, it consists of a mayor, recorder, and
aldermen, with a sheriff, chamberlains, coroner,
town-clerk, and other officers, after the model of
the corporation of York. The power, privileges,
duties, and insignia of the two bodies, bear, indeed,
go great a degree of resemblance to each other,
that it is unnecessary to be more explicit on this head.
But Hull has one other important and honourable
office : that of high-steward, with which it is usual
to compliment some distinguished nobleman. This
officer is the advocate of the borough ; and carries
its petitions to the foot of the throne. Hull sends
two representatives to Parliament, the right of
electing whom is vested in the burgesses, in num-
ber about two thousand. Though the recorder has
the power of gaol-delivery, yet, as he never uses it,
and as the assizes are held here but once in three
years, the period of confinement is often prolonged
to a miserable extent. The Quarter Sessions are
held regularly ; as are courts of venire, for civil
actions, and of conscience for the recovery of small
debts. — It is supposed that in the list of celebrated
natives of Hull must be included the brave Admiral
Lawson*, whose exploits are coupled in our recol-
lections with those of Penn, Blake, and Monk.
Andrew Marvel, also, the friend of our immortal
Milton, was the son of a Calvinistic preacher, of
Hull ; and represented that place in three succes-
* It is not certain, though believed, that Lawson was bom
at Hull. His origin was obscure, if rot mean ; and he rose in
his profession, soly on account of his extraordinary merit. In
1653, during the engagement c>ff Cape la Hogue, be com-
manded a ship, on board of which 100 men were killed on the
first day ; on the second, be captured a Dutch ship, by board-
ing ; and on the third, another in the pursuit. On the memo-
rable 2d of June, in that year, he commanded with Penn,
under Monk and Dean, in a battle which crowned him with
neter dying fame. And on the 31st of July he again attacked
sive parliaments. Nor does the county of Kingston-
upon-Hull receive less honour from having given
birth to Dr. Thomas Watson, Bishop of St. David's,
whose conscientious adherence to his political prin-
ciples caused him, on the exile of his royal master,
James II. to become obnoxious to the government ;
which succeeded in removing him, on some frivolous
changes, from his see.
HUNMANBY.] — Ilunraanby, a well built village,
pleasantly situated half way between Scarborough
and Bridlington, had formerly a market, and still
displays in its vicinity the foundations of an ancient
fortress. The manorial rights, which once belonged
to the Gaunts, the Kendestons, and the. Cliftons,
are now, with the property ol two thirds of the town,
possessed by Humphrey Osbaldistone, Esq. who
inhabits the manor-house, an ancient structure, en-
vironed by spacious gardens and flourishing plan-
tations. The church contains some monuments of
this family, and a few others, remarkable chiefly
for their simplicity ; with the armorial bearings, in
eleven distinct shields, of the ancient lords of the
place. At the vicarage- house resides the Rev.
Francis Wrangharn, who has, at a considerable
expence, improved and embellished both the house
and grounds.
KILHAM.] — Kilham, situated eight miles west-
ward from Bridlington, had formerly a market. Its
site, in a vale of the wolds, is pleasant ; and the
soil is fertile in corn. A streamlet, which flows in the
bottom, might be easily made navigable to the Hull.
KIRK ELLA.]— Kirk Ella and West Ella are two
villages which occupy an elevated site, five miles
and a half westward from Hull. Here, several
wealthy merchants of that place have elegant seats ;
and die ancient and commercial family of Sykes
possesses extensive property. In the church at
Kirk Ella, which appears to be a very antique struc-
ture, is a handsome monument, erected to the me-
mory of Joseph Sykes, Esq. who carried on a most
intimate intercourse with the nobles and merchants
of Sweden.
KIRKHAM PRIORY.] — The Priory of Kirkham was
founded by Sir William L'Epee and Adelina his
wife, A. D. 1121, and endowed by them with the
profits and rents of seven churches, amounting to
1000 marks. At the Dissolution, its revenues ex-
ceeded three hundred pounds ; and it was then
granted to Sir Henry Knevet. Its remains are
situated in a delightful vale of the Derwent. Now
overgrown with weeds and rank herbage, it is dif-
De Ruyter with such vigour and perseverance, that his own
ship was towed out of the fleet. On this occasion the parlia-
ment voted him a gold chain. Having entered into the con.
spiracy of the l''ifth-Monarchy-men against the Protector, he
was committed to prison, but soon after was created vice-ad-
miral, and sent to command the fleet. He co-operated with
Monk in the Restoration : and after an unsuccessful expedition
to Algiers, he served as Rear-admiral under the Duke of York.
He was killed by a musket shot OB the memorable 3d of June,
1665, offLowestoff.
ficuli
560
YORKSHIRE.
ficult to ascertain its precise extent ; but the scat-
tered ruins are sufficient evidence of its ancient
magnificence. The northern part of the gate is the
principal vestige ; to the southward the cellars are
still visible, though very ruinous : and a small por-
tion of the chancel has withstood the ravages of time.
LONDESBROUGH.] — The village of Londesbrough
is supposed to be the ancient Delgovitia : the evi-
dences for which opinion are, the direction of the
Roman road through the park, the discovery of
many coins and skeletons ; and the agreement of
the distances with those marked in the Itinerary.
It was long the seat of the Cliffords, from whom the
Duke of Devonshire, the present possessor, is de-
scended on the female side. The mansion is plea-
santly situated, and contains many noble apart-
ments ; but it has long ceased to be a residence of
its proprietors.
MARKET WEIGJITON.] — The small town of Market
Weighton, situated 19 miles E. S. E. from York,
had, hy many antiquaries, been supposed the Roman
Delgovitia, till Drake fixed that station at Loncles-
brougli. The degree of prosperity enjoyed by this
place has been considerably encreased by a navi-
gable canal to the Humber. The air is highly salu-
brious ; the roads are good ; and, on the whole, it
inay be pronounced in a state of improvement.
Besides the church, which contains nothing remark-
able, here are chapels of the methodists and inde-
pendents. Without the town, are vestiges of tumuli,
in which have been discovered human bones, and
remains of armour, supposed to be of the Danes,
with some coins of the Romans. At the distance of
six rniles southward is Houghton, the seat of Philip
Langdale, Esq. surrounded by agreeable pleasure
grounds.
MARTON.] — At the distance of two miles from
Bridlington, stands Sevverby, tlie seat of 'John
Graeme, Esq. commanding nn extensive and mag-
nificent view of the bay and coast southward. At
'a greater distance-, northward, is Marton, the re-
sidence of Ralph Creske, Esq. so situated as to
command a fine view of the sea northward upon
Flatnborough Head. In the neighbourhood of these
mansions, is seen an immense ditch, or ravine,
formed apparently for the defence of the peninsula
of Flamborough Head, by some invader who had
taken up that station. Tradition ascribes this work,
with great plausibility, to the Danes ; and it is ac-
cordingly called " Dane's Dike." But this sup-
position is supported by no written authority ; for
the observation of Camden, that Ida first landed
here, -cannot be accounted one. It extends above a
mile and a quarter from the sea-shore, where its
depth equals the height of the promontory ; but this
gradually diminishes, and at length disappears al-
together. The original intention appears to have
been the complete insulation of the promontory.
MELSA.] — The small hamlet of Melsa, so called
from Meaux, in Normandy, whence came its first
inhabitants at the Conquest, derives celebrity from
the foundation of an abbey, founded here by Wil-
liam Le Gros, Earl of Albemarle, in 1)50. Its
j situation, little elevated above the surrounding mo-
! rass, had few attractions ; nevertheless, it continued
to flourish, till the Dissolution, when the number of
monks was fifty, and the revenues amounted to
i almost three hundred pounds. "From the remains of
a curious mosaic pavement, foundations still visible,
and the appearance of moats and ditches, it is evi-
dent that this once famous monastery boasted consi-
derable magnificence.
MELTON.] — The pleasant village of Melton, situ-
ated nine miles westward from Hull, is the favourite
residence of several opulent inhabitants of that place.
Melton Hill, the seat of I. S. Williamson, Esq. is
ornamented with beautiful plantations.
NORTH FERRIBY.] — The ancient village of North
Ferriby, situated three miles westward from Hessle,
was once famous for a magnificent priory of the
Knights Templars, founded, about 1200, by one of
the Lords Vesci. Of this house no remains are now
visible ; but as the present church is very ancient,
and appears to be only a remnant of a larger edifice,
it is probable that it belonged to the monastery. In
the neighbourhood are the elegant mansions of Sir
Henry Hetherington, Bart. R. C. Broadley, Esq.
and others, for the most part merchants, of Hull.
PATRINGTON.] — Patrington, a small market town,
situated 18 miles E. S. E. from Hull, is supposed
by Camden to be the Pratorium of Antoninus : pro*
bably on Account of its name. Others place that
station at Spurn Head. The situation of Patrington,
though flat, is not unpleasant, furnishing views of
the Humber, and the opposite coast of Lincolnshire.
The only remarkable edifice is the parish church,
which is large, and decorated with a lofty spire. —
Spurn Hend, or Spurn Point, where is a light-
house, is situated ten miles south eastward from
Patrington. Ravenspur, or Ravenser, a noted sea-
port, Frismark, Redmayr, Pennysmark, Upsal,
and Polterfleet, were once towns and villages on
this coast, of which no remains exist hut their names.
On this other hand, as the sea has here encroached
on the land, so on the Ilolderness coast of the Hum-
ber, it has retreated, leaving extensive tracts to the
hand of the cultivator. Of these, Hunk Island began
to appear in the reign of Charles I. and now con-
tains 4570 acres of fertile soil, on which a church
has been founded for the use of the numerous popu-
lation ; and a large tract, called Cherry sands, being
left dry, became a valuable addition to the estates
of the Constable family. — At Ilalshnm, a village
four miles westward from Patrington, a superb
mausoleum was erected by the late W. Constable,
Esq. as a place of inhumation for his family and
descendants.
PAUL.] — On the bank of (he Humber, nearly 2|
miles S. from Hedon, is the village of Paul, re-
markable for its dock-yard, in which large ships of
the line are often built. Here is also a large soap
manufactory.
POCKLINGTON.
YORKSHIRE.
flB.1
— Pocklin»ton, situated 13 miles
E. by S. from York, and near the western foot of
the Wolds, is remarkable chiefly for the elegant
mansions found in its vicinity. At Wnplington,
distant 2| miles, resides Thomas Charterton, Esq ;
and at Warier Hall, 4£ miles to the eastward, the
Penningtons have long1 been seated. At the latter
place was formerly a priory of Augustine monks,
founded in 1132, the revenues of which were, at
the Dissolution, very considerable. — Mclburn, five
miles south-westward from Pocklington, is the seat
of Sir Henry Vavasour, Bart, whose mansion, situ-
ated in a beautiful park, well stacked with timber,
commands agreeable views of the Western Wolds,
and Holme Hill.
RUDSTAN.] — In a fertile valley, little more than
five miles from Bridlington, westward, is Uudstan,
probably so named from a sort of rude obelisk which
stands in the church-yard. This is one entire block
of coarse rag, or mill-stone grit, twenty -nine feet
four inches in height above the ground ; and, below,
of unknown depth, as it has been traced twelve feet
in that direction, without finding the extremity. It
stands at the distance of forty miles from any quarry,
in which the same kind of stone is found ; whence it
is presumed to be the production of a people, not
entirely ignorant of mechanics ; though its inelegance
precludes the idea of their refinement.
SCAMPSTON.] — Scampston, an elegant mansion,
Gi miles eastward from Malton, is the seat of the
ancient and honourable family of St. Quintin. Here,
a handsome stone bridge crosses a rivulet, which
gives beauty and fertility to a soil, covered with
plantations, and plentifully stocked with various
kinds of deer. — Settrington, four miles from Malton,
and three from Scampston, belongs to Sir Mark
Masterman Sykes, Bart. wuo became its proprietor
by marriage with the heiress of the Mastermans.
The situation is not unpleasant, and the mansion has
received many modern improvements.
SKIPSEA.] — About a mile and a half from the coast,
and nine miles southward from Bridlington, is the
village of Skipsea, with its hamlet of Skipsea-
Brough, from which it is separated by a narrow
marsh. In the middle of this marsh is an artificial
mound, circular, and of considerable height, on
which are seen the foundations of an ancient castle,
or tower, supposed to have been founded here by
Drago de Bruer, soon after the Conquest. On the
west side of this marsh is also a stupendous ram-
part of eartl), ten yards in height, and half a mile
long, with a deep trench. Respecting these en-
trenchments, there are no other notices than the
fabulous traditions of the neighbourhood.
SKIRLAUGH.] — The village of Skirlaugh, situated
six or Seven miles S. W. from Hornsea, is remark-
able for its chapel, built, in a highly ornamented
style of Gothic architecture, by Walter Skirlaiigb,
Bishop of Durham, and a native of this place, in
the 13th century. At Swine, 3| miles from Skir-
laugh, southward, was formerly a priory of Cister-
VOL. iv. — no. 181,
tian nuns, of which no vestiges exist ; the site being
occupied by a farm-house.
SLEDMERE.] — Sledunere, situated near the York
road to Bridlington, nearly seventeen miles from
the latter place, is the seat of Sir M. M. Sykes, Bart.
by whose father it was designed. Here the pavi-
lions, hot-houses, green-houses, and other appen-
dages, are in the most elegant and appropriate
style; and a lofty arch, raised over the public
road, has a magnificent effect. The surrounding
scenery, also, contrary to wliat might be ex-
pected in so dreary a district as the Wolds, is enli-
vened by elegant houses, belonging to farms, in as
high a state of cultivation as the soil permits.
These, interspersed with numerous and extensive
j plantations, and the superb mansion, with its orna-
mented grounds, present a strikingly picturesque,
and even beautiful assemblage of objects, the more
surprising, because little anticipated.
SOUTH CAVE.] — The small market-town of South
Cave, probably so named from its situation on a
depressed spot, at the foot of the Western Wolds,
is 27{ miles S. E. by E. from York, and about three
miles from the Humber. The parish, which is very
extensive, comprehends the townships of Broomfleet,
Faxfleet, and Osmaudyke. The church, which is
a plain yet neat edifice, does not claim an earlier
date than 1601. A monument has been erected to
the memory of Captain C. Barnard, who fell at the
battle of Waterloo. This is decorated with appro-
priate devices ; but it is remarkable, chiefly, for the
simple elegance, and impressiveness, of the inscrip-
tion :
" This Tablet is erected to the memory of
Captain Charles Lewis Barnard, of the 2d R. N. B. Dragoons,
who died at Waterloo, June 18th, 1815, aged 25 years,
and was buried on the field of battle.
He served a campaign in Germany, and nearly the whole of
the Spanish War, in which he was severely wounded.
At the Battle of Waterloo,
He led into action the right squadron of his highly dist'm--
guished Regiment, and displayed, before he fell,
talents and courage that gained him the
admiration of all his brother soldiers.
Ye, that respect the union of virtue, valour, and ability,
pause ere ye pass this Tablet ;
and if ye have sons or brothers, pray that their lives may
be as fair, and their deaths as glorious, as his." '
The several manors in this parish, with their estates,
after having been long divided, as the property of
the Harrisons, Danbys, Vavasours, Girlingtons,
Washingtons, and others, have been at length united,
and now belong to 11. B. Barnard, Esq. who is also
impropriator of the great tithes, and patron of the
vicarage. Cave Castle, the seat of this gentleman,
situated in a small but extremely pleasant park,
surrounded by extensive plantations, is a large and
noble structure, in the castellated style, with turrets,
&c. and adorned, interiorly, with a select and valu-
able collection of the works of the best masters;,
among which is a portrait of the American patriot,
Washington, whose great grandfather lived here,,
and possessed part of tb« estate,
7 c SPALD-
502
YORKSHIRE.
SPALDIN&TON.] — The manor of Spaldington, situ-
ated nearly four miles northward from Howden, has
te;'ii within a few years considerably increased in
•value by the inclosure of a large common. Here is
•still to be seen the ancient mansion of the Vava-
sours.
STAMFORD BRIDGE.] — Stamford Bridge, situated
on the Derwent, seven miles and a half from York,
north-east, is supposed, by Drake, with much appa-
rent reason, to have been the Roman Derventio :
its distance from York corresponding with that,
marked in the itinerary ; and being the only place,
fordable, between Multon and the Ouse. Here was
fought, on September 23d, 1066, the bloody and
decisive battle between the last of our Saxon kings,
Harold, and his refractory brother, in which the
latter was defeated, and slain, with his ally, the
King of Norway.
SCULCOATES.] — Sculcoates, so connected with
Hull as to be undistinguishable by strangers, is
always considered a part of that town ; and has,
accordingly, been connected with it in our descrip-
tion. The parish church, having become much de-
cayed, was, in 1760, taken down, and rebuilt with
brick, in a neat style. Its chief ornament is the
font, an oval cistern of variegated grey marble,
placed upon a pedestal of black, and adorned, at
the angles, with four slender columns of white,
marble.
SWANLAND.] — At Swanland, a village delightfully
situated on elevated ground, northward from Fer-
riby, is the seat of Mr. Porter, a neat mansion, com-
manding a view of several landscapes, admired for
their grandeur and variety.
WATTON.] — Watton, six miles southward from
Driffield, on the road from that place to Beverley,
•was the ancient I clmluii. It is known that a nun-
nery existed here as early as 686 ; but by whom
founded, or how destroyed, is uncertain. About
* The following account is by Major Topham : "The stone
in question fell within two fields of my house. The weather
•was misty, and at times inclining to rain ; and though there
was some thunder and lightning at a distance it was not till the
falling of the stone that the explosion took place which alarmed
the surrounding country, and which created so distinctly the
sensation that something, very singular, had happened.
" When the stone fell, a shepherd of mine, who was returning
from his sheep, was about 150 yards from the spot ; and John
Shipley, one of my farming men, was so near the spot where
it fell, that he was struck very forcibly by some of the mud and
«arth raised by the stone dashing into the earth, which it pene-
trated to the depth of twelve inches, and seven afterwards into
the chalk rock ; making in all, a depth of nineteen inches from
the surface.
" When the stone was passing through the air, which it did
in a north-west direction from the sea-coast, numbers of persons
distinguished a body passing through the clouds, though not
able to ascertain what it was ; and two sons of the clergyman of
Wold Newton, (a village near me) saw it pass so distinctly by
them, that they ran up immediately to my house to know if
any thing extraordinary had happened.
" In the different villages, over which the stone took its direc-
various were the people who heard the noise of something
1150, Eustace Fit/.john founded at Walton a priory
of Gilbertine nuns, whose revenues amounted iU the
Dissolution to 380/. 16*. \0d. The material part of
this institution remains, much dilapidated ; though
the Bethels, who possess the estate, have attended
to its preservation.
WILBERFOSS.] — Wilberfoss, five miles westward
from Pocklington, was the site of a religious house,
and long the seat of the Wilberfoss family. Here
some remains of the Romans have been discovered :
in 1810, a man, ploughing in the neighbourhood,
found a great number of silver coins of Severus
and Julia, Geta and Caracalla, Adrian, Commodus,
Vespasian, Faustina, Liicilla, and other empresses,
in excellent preservation.
WENISTEAD.] — The pleasant village of Wenistead,
distant a mile and a half from Patrington, is distin-
guished by the seats of Sir R. D'A. Hilyard, Bart,
and H. Maisters, Esq. which, situated on a gently
rising ground, command pleasing prospects of Pa-
tringtou, Sunk Island, and the 1 lumber.
WOLD NEWTON.] — Wold Newton, situated nearly
five miles south-westward from Hunmanby, is re-
markable for an intermitting spring, called by the
country people, the Gypsies ; which, bubbling up
from the level soil among the grass, in winter, or
early in spring, fills a channel twelve feet wide and
three deep, disappearing in two or three months,
and leaving no trace of its existence. Here also
occurred, in December, 1795, the anomalous appear-
ance of a meteoric stone, falling through the atmos-
phere. This phenomenon was witnessed by four
persons, particularly, who united in attesting its
occurrence ; and by many others, whose observations
added weight to their testimony.* So extraordi-
nary an incident seemed to Major Topham, of Wold
Cottage, on whos« estate it happened, worthy of
commemoration ; and he accordingly erected an
obelisk on the spot, with a suitable inscription.
NORTH
passing through the air, accurately and distinctly, though they
could not imagine what was the cause of it ; and, in many of
the provincial, newspapers, these accounts were published, at the
time from different persons.
" In fact, no circumstance of the kind had evermore con-
current testimonies ; and the appearance of the stone itself,
while it resembles in composition those which are supposed to
have fallen in various other parts of the world, has no counter-
part or resemblance in the natural stones of the country.
" The stone, in its fall, excavated a place of the depth before
mentioned ; and of something more than a yard in diameter.
It had fixed itself so strongly in the chalk rock, that it required
labour to dig it out.
" On being brought home, it was weighed, and the weight at
that time was fifty-six pounds, which has been diminished in a
small degree at present, by different pieces being taken from it,
as presents to different literati of the county. Mr. King, the
antiquary, in his account of " Sky-fallen stones," has published
an account of this, with many curious and learned remarks, OB
those which have fallen at different periods. -
" All these three witnesses, who saw it fall, agree perfectly
in their account of the manner of its fall, and that they saw
a dark body passing through the air, and ultimately strike the
ground ; and though, from their situation and characters in life.
lhe>
YORKSHIRE.
NORTH RIDING.] — The North Riding, already
described as bounded by the Uerwent and the Ouse,
the Tees and the German ocean, comprehends the
eleven wapentakes of Allertonshire, Birdford, Bul-
mer, Gilling East, Gilling West, Hallikeld, Hang
East, Hang West, Laugborough, Rydale and
Whitby Strand ; and the Lythe of Pickering.
ASKRIGG.] — The ancient market-town of Askrigg,
situated 13 miles W. by N. from Middleham, near
the river Ure and Swalcdale Forest, resembles a
large village ; and the occupations of the inhabitants
are, principally, the knitting of stockings, and making
butter or cheese. It is remarkable, chiefly, for some
considerable cataracts in its neighbourhood : as,
Milgill Force, a fall of twenty or thirty yards ;
Whitfield's Force, a grand specimen of the pic-
turesque ; and I lardrow Force, where the water
falls in one grand sheet from a perpendicular height
of one hundred feet. — At Aysgarth, a village four
miles off, on the Ure, are several cascades, where
the river, there of considerable breadth, pours, at
intervals, down a broken ledge of rocks, in a wild
ravine, surrounded by richly wooded hills. At this
place is a bridge of one arch, of seventy-one feet
span, and thirty feet high. The handsome church,
seated on an eminence beside this scene, is finely
adapted by its situation to the exercises of devotion.
It was said, by Dr. Pococke, that the grandeur of
Aysgarth Force exceeded even that of the cataracts
of the Nile. — At a short distance are the ruins of Fors
Abbey, founded about 1445, for Cistertian monks.
BEDALE.] — Bedale, situated 38 miles N. W. from
York, is a tolerably well-built town, with a spacious
church, adorned with a handsome tower. The
valley in which it stands is extremely fertile, and
adorned with several elegant mansions. Hornby
Castle, the sent of the Duke of Leeds, is a spacious
structure, of Gothic architecture, somewhat varied by
alterations. Its site, on an eminence which overlooks
the valley, commands also an extensive view of the
rich country between Leeming Lane and the Western
Moors.
BROMPTON.] — The village of Brompton, situated
eight miles south-westward from Scarbrough, is said
to have been once a residence of the Northumbrian
raonarchs ; and the foundations of an ancient build-
ing are still visible on an eminence called Castle
Hill. It is also usually considered the birth-place
of John de Brompton, an English historian, whose
chronicle, commencing with the arrival of Austin,
in 558, and ending with the death of Richard I. is
published among the Decem Scriptores.
CASTLE HOWARD.] — At the distance of ten miles,
north-eastward from York, is Castle Howard, the
magnificent mansion of the Earl of Carlisle. This
fine seat, built after a design of Sir John Vanbrugh,
in imitation of Blenheim, on the site of the old
they could have no possible object in detailing a false account
of this transaction, I felt so desirous of giving this matter every
degree of authenticity, that as a magistrate, I took their ac-
eastle of Hinderskclf, is extremely grand in its
exterior ; distinguished by greater longitude of front
than its famous model ; and embellished within, by
a rich collection of paintings, statues, and other
works of art. The hall, 35 feet square, and 60 high,
terminates in a spacious dome, 100 teet in height,
adorned with columns of the Corinthian and Com-
posite orders ; and below, this room is painted with
the history of Phaeton, by Peligrini, and embellished
with several antique statues and busts ; as are the
saloon and dining-room, both of extraordinary di-
mensions and beauty. The saloon above stairscoiuains
four beautiful tables of granite, with bustsand pictures,
and is painted with a representation of the principal
incidents in the Siege of Troy. The drawing-room,
also, is adorned with Flemish tapestry, from de-
signs by Rubens ; two fine pillars of green por-
phyry ; and several figures, among which is a bust,
esteemed the finest in England. The pavement of.
the blue drawing-room is mosaic. The state bed-
room is hung with fine Brussels tapestry, after de-
signs by Teniers ; and the chimney-piece, here, ii
particularly striking. The other apartments are
equally distinguished for the treasures of art which
they contain, and the good taste in which they are
fitted up. The museum, 21 feet square, and the
antique gallery, 160 feet by 20, contain a vast as-
semblage of curiosities, as ancient urns, pieces of
mosaic, relievos, busts, and a cylindrical altar, 1 !-
feet high, which once stood in the temple of Delphos.
To enumerate minutely the various works of the
chisel and the pencil, here collected, would be to
catalogue some of the best productions of the greatest
masters. The portraits, by Vandyke, of many cele-
brated persons, hold a conspicuous place , as do
some by Rubens, Holbein, Sir Peter Lely, and Sir
Joshua Reynolds. There are few landscapes ; but
many historical pieces, among which the works of
the Caracci, Rubens, Rembrandt, Velasquez, and
Salvator Rosa, are distinguished ; and of the fancy
pieces, some are by the best Dutch masters. One
picture of the Three Marys, by Annibal Carracci,
we must particularize. It once belonged to the
collection of the Duke of Orleans, who was offered
for it, by the court of Spain, as many Louis-il'ors
as would cover its surface, a sum of about 8000/.
The design, composition, and colouring, cannot be
surpassed; while the deep tragedy which it exhibits,
carried to the extreme of agonizing woe, produces
an effect that language cannot describe. The num-
ber of capital pictures exceeds one hundred, of
which about one third are portraits. — The pleasure-
grounds, which are extensive and beautiful, have
been improved by the formation of a fine sheet of
water ; and the erection in various parts of orna-
mental buildings. Among these is a quadrangular
obelisk, raised at the intersection of two lofty ave-
count upon oath, immediately on my return into the country.
I saw no reason to doubt any of their evidence, after the most
minute investigation of it.*'
nues,
664
YORKSHIRE.
nucs, by the Earl of Carlisle, in 1714, to comme-
morate the victories of Marlborough, to whom it is
inscribed. Nearly opposite the grand entrance, on
the north front, an elegant monument has been
raised to the immortal Nelson ; whose three vic-
tories of Aboukir, Copenhagen, and Trafalgar, are
there inscribed. At half a mile eastward from the
house, is an Ionic temple, with four porticoes of
black and yellow marble ; and, at a greater distance,
in the same direction, is the Mausoleum, a circular
building, fifty feet in diameter, surrounded by a
handsome Doric colonnade, crowned by a dome,
tnd decorated, within, with Corinthian columns.
s CATTERICK.] — The village of Catterick, situated
five miles from Richmond, and one from the Swale,
is supposed, by Camden and others, to have been
the Roman Cataractonium ; but Dr. Gibsom, though
he allows that the name is preserved in its modern
appellation, contends that Cataracton stood nearer
the Swale, "at a farm-house called Thornburgh,
where, as well as at Brompton-upon-Swale, Roman
coins have been discovered," in large quantities.
From this place, the Roman military road branched
to Caldwell, a small village, which appears, from
its traces of ancient splendour, to have been a large
city. — The village of Bowes, also, nearly twelve
miles from Catterick, is situated on another branch
of the same road ; and is supposed by Camden to
have been the ancient Lavatra.
EASIHGWOLD.] — The straggling, ill-built market-
town of Easingwold, situated 13 miles N. K. from
York, in a flat, unpicturesque, and rather infertile
country, enjoys but a small share of the prosperity
which results from commerce : its only trade arising
from the produce of bacon and butter, of which
considerable quantities are sent to York, for the
London market.
EAST AYTON.] — East and West Ayton are two
villages, situated five miles from Scarborough, on
opposite sides of the Derwent, over which is a bridge
oi four arches. The road which leads from this
place along the river to Uackness, is in the highest
degree romantic, being embosomed in hills, feathered
with luxuriant woods to the very summit. In a
sequestered spot, about a mile from the village, is
a forge, where, however, the manufacture is not,
for want of water carriage, carried on to a great or
profitable extent.
EBBERSTON.] — At Ebberston, three miles west-
ward from Brempton, is a small but elegant villa of
the Hatham family, remarkable for the beauty of the
surrounding scenery, and for the peculiarity of its
construction, on the Roman plan. Here is also, in
a hill, a cave, called, Ilfrid's Hole, from a current
tradition, that King Alfred, of Northumberland, took
refuge in it, when wounded ; and the proprietor of
this estate caused, in 1790, a plain structure of rude
stones to be erected there in commemoration of the
event.
EASF.BY.] — Near the village of Easeby, about a
ntie and a half from Richmond, are the venerable
relics of the ancient monastery, in which fire pointed
Gothic windows, and a circular arch-way, remain
entire.
GUISBOROCGH.] — The market town of Guis-
borough, situated 51 miles N. from York, in the
most delightful part of Cleveland, is regarded by
all as the garden of this district, and is even com-
pared by Camden to Puteoli,'in Italy. Its site is a
narrow, fertile vale, four miles from the mouth of
the Tees, and it consists principally of one broad
street, of neat and pleasing appearance. At the
Conquest, it consisted of three manors, which,
becoming united in the hands of Robert de Brus,
Lord of Skelton, he gave to a priory which he
founded here, in 1129, for canons of St. Augustine.
This house, possessing the whole manor of Guis-
borough, and receiving numerous other valuable
donations from different individuals, enjoyed a re-
venue, at the Dissolution, of 712/. 6s. Qd. ; and its
magnificence was characteristic of its opulence. An
ancient manuscript in the Cottonian Library says,
'•'the Prior of Gysbrough kept a most pompous
house, insomuch that the towne, consystinge of 500
housholders, had noe lahde, but lyved all on the
abbey." Nothing can exceed the majestic beauty
of the arch of the east window, which, except a
small gateway, is its only remain. Much of the pro-
perty of this institution was granted by Queen Mary
to Sir Thomas Chaloner, in whose family it remains.
That gentleman is also remarkable as the first person
who conceived the possibility of procuring alum here ;
and the works which he established were long car-
ried on with complete success. — On the summit of a
considerable eminence, four miles from Guisborough,
north-westward, is an ancient intrenchment, sup-
posed of the Saxons ; consisting of a double circle
of rough loose stones ; and the prospect from this
hill is the most extensive in the neighbourhood, com-
manding views of Rosebury Topping, a considerable
extent of coast and ocean, the range of Cleveland
hills, and northward of a great part of the county
of Durham. — Skelton Castle, 3^ miles from Guis-
borough, north-eastward, is undoubtedly of great
antiquity ; having been granted at the Conquest to
Robert de Brus, a Norman of rank, who possessed
no fewer than ninety -four lordships in the county,
and who made this place the capital of his barony.
It was afterwards obtained by marriage, by the
Fauconbergs, who retained it till it passed in like
manner to a succession of other proprietors ; and it
is now possessed by John Wharton, Esq. Of the
ancient edifice, few traces exist, except the domestic
offices. The modern building presents a long linr.
of front ; within, it is elegant and commodious, and
the natural beauties of its situation are greatly aug-
mented by an extensive sheet of water. It was onct
inhabited by John Hall, Esq., author of " Crazi
Tales," a man of superior powers ; and the Euge
nius of Sterne, with whom he was intimate. — Up-
leathan Hall, the seat of Lord Dundas, three mile
northward from Guisborough, is a neat moder;
mansior
YORKSHIRE.
50-3
mansion, sheltered by thriving plantations, and
otherwise adorned by pleasing- scenery.
HACKNESS.] — Ilackness, a small village, roman-
tically situated six miles nearly westward from Scar-
borough, occupies a small valley, from which branch
several other* in various directions, for the most
part wooded to the very summit of the eminences
by which they are formed. In this delightful spot, St.
Hilda, the foundress of Whitby Abbey, instituted a
nunnery, to which she gave the name of Hactenus,
now corrupted by the vulgar into Ilackness ; and
this foundation, having been destroyed by the Danish
invasion, was re-established by William de Percy,
during the reign of William Rul'ns, who gave to
it a large addition of revenue. In 1690, the lordship
of Hackness was purchased by John Vanden
Bempde, a Dutchman, and has descended to its
present proprietor, Lady Johnstone. The elegant
mansion of this lady, built by her late husband, Sir
R. V. B. Johnstone, Bart, is remarkable, chiefly, for
its extensive1 and beautiful gardens, which are not
only laid out in the most attractive taste, but afford
some of the most romantic and delightful prospects
in nature.
H AWES.] — Ilawes is a market town, situated about
18-f- miles W. from Middleham, and six from Askrigg.
Besides the commerce which it enjoys by means of
its weekly market, and two annual fairs, consider-
able quantities of stockings are knitted, which afford
employment to a large portion of the population.
HELMSLEY.] — The market town of Helinsley, situ-
ated 22 miles N. from York, on the declivity of a
small eminence, gently sloping to the Rye, is the
centre of the extensive parish of the same name,
which comprises six distant villages, many detached
farms, and the valley of Bilsdale, at the upper ex-
tremity of which are the ruins of Rievatilx Abbey. —
The castle of this place, of unknown origin, was
once of considerable note ; and belonged, in the
days of the three Edwards, to the family of Ross.
The ruins, yet remaining, consist of a lofty tower,
some detached parts, and a gateway, surrounded
by a double moat. — At half a mile from Helmsley,
is Duncombe Park, the seat of C. S. Duncombe,
Esq. whose ancestor purchased that and other estates
of the dissipated Duke of Buckingham. This man-
sion is from a superb design, by Vanbrugh, of
which the hall and saloon are entitled to particular
admiration. The former, sixty feet in length, and
forty in breadth, is surrounded by sixteen fluted
Corinthian pillars, and ornamented with busts of
Greek and Latin poets, large medallions of the
twelve Caesars, and various antique statues. The
saloon, eighty-eight feet long, and twenty-four
broad, is formed into three divisions by Ionic
pillars, and also decorated with antique statues
and family pictures. The collection of paintings,
which enrich and embellish this house, are the
productions of the first and best masters since the
revival of the art. Among them are several by
Guido, Correggio, Titian, aud Dominicbino, a few
VOL. JY. — NO. 181.
of the Flemish school, and some of the admirable
nndscapes of Claude Lorraine. The disposition of
the surrounding demesne displays the same good
taste as the embellishment of the family Lares.
The garden has a terrace, at one end of which is an
Ionic temple that commands a full prospect of the
enchanting landscape. This is formed by a beautiful
valley, hanging woods, a serpentine river, a roman-
tic cascade, and, in fine, all the effect of cultivation
without its appearance. At another point, the view
presents a Tuscan temple, an old tower, Helmsley
church, amid clumps of trees, and the same land-
scape, enchantingly varied. — The noble vestige of
antiquity, called Ryeval, or Rievaulx Abbey, is
situated at the distance of three miles from Dun-
combe Park. This monastery owed its origin to a
gift, made by Sir Walter L'Espee, 1131, to some
monks sent into England by St. Bernard, of the
solitary spot which it occupies, surrounded by steep
hills, covered with wood and ling, and watered by a
small rivulet. The supreme Pontiff, immediately on
its foundation, invested it with extraordinary pri-
vileges, as exemption from tithes and interdicts ;
and various persons so endowed it, that at the Dis-
solution its revenues amounted to 351/. 14s. Qd. It
was then granted to the Earl of Rutland, whose
heiress carried it to George Villiers, Duke of Buck-
ingham, and his son, the second Duke, sold it to Sir
C. Duncombe, as already mentioned. The ruins,
the principal of which is an arched Gothic gate-
way, are noble, and shew its former great extent.
Advantage has been taken of the sublimity of the
scene to construct a charming terrace, at one end
of which is a pavilion, ornamented with paintings, and,
at the other, a circular temple ; both of which build-
ings command a full view of this romantic valley. —
At five miles southward from Helmsley, are two
seats : Gilling Castle, an ancient mansion of the
family of Fairfax ; and Newburgh Hall, belonging
to T.E.VV. Bcllasis, Esq.— Creyke, or Crake Castle,
in this neighbourhood, is supposed, perhaps for no
better reason than ils situation, to have been a castnim
ejcptorafum of the Romans. If, however, its origin is
unknown, it is certain that it was a royal villa, or
palace of the Saxon kings ; that it was given about
t)35,byEgfrid, King of Northumberland, to St. Cuth-
bcrt ; and that it is ROW part of the county of Durham.
HUTTON BUSHEL.] — -The small village of Huttou
Bushel, situated about six miles south-west from
Scarborough, derived its name from the family of
Buscel, to whom it was granted by the Conqueror.
It is now adorned with the elegant mansion of Mrs.
Osbaldistone ; of whose family the church contains
several monuments.
KIHKBY MOOKSIDE .]— The market-town of Kiykby
Moorside, situated 5| miles E.N.E. from Helmsley,
was called in Domesday Chirchbi ; afterwards, it
obtained the appellation of Moorsheved ; and this
has been gradually modified to Moorside. The
manor belonged to the ancient family of Stuteville,
the ruins of whose seat are still distinguishable on
7 D the
5G6
YORKSHIRE.
the top of a bill near the town ; as are the remains of
anotherbnilding, called the.manor-house, said to have
belonged to the Lords Latimcr. Here, in a house
said by some to have been an inn, by others a mad-
house, died the witty Duke of Buckingham, whose
exit irom a merry life is so woll described by Pope.
The record of his interment in the parish register,
characterizes its obscurity :
" BURIALS,
4687, April 17tli, Gorges vilaus, Lord clookc of hookingham."
KIRKDALF..] — In a small vale, about a mile west-
ward from Kirkby Moorside, stands Kirkdale church,
remarkable, chiefly, for its antiquity, and an inscrip-
tion over the south door, which runs thus :
Orm, Gamut's Sana, bohtc Sanctus Gregorius Minster
thoune hit teas at to brocan 4" to falan. Chehitlc if
Man newan from groundcs Christe # Sanclis Grego-
rius in fcadwurd dagum cug in Totti dagum Earl.
i. e. " Orm, Gamut's son bought St. Gregory's
church, when it was all ruined and fallen down. Che-
hitle and others renewed it from the ground to Christ
and St. Gregory in Edward's days, the king, and Tosti's
days the earl."
Aud beneath this dial :
And Hayward me icrnht Brand Prs
This is dages Sal meria
To Sunna titlum Wenttres.
i. e. And Hawarth me made and Brand the priest,
This is a draft exhibiting the time of day,
While the sun is passing to and from the
Winter Solstice.
By which it appears, that this edifice was rebuilt
before Tosti was slain in battle with his brother
Harold II, in lOttti. — Its situation, in a fruitful vale,
bordered by hanging groves, and watered by a rivu-
let, is beautiful and romantic, and welJ adapted to
the excitement of pious emotions.
KIRKHAM.] — About four miles northward from
Malton, is Kirkham, where are the remains of a
priory, founded about J120, by Walter L' Espee,
and Adeline his wife, for canons of St. Augustine.
These remains consist chiefly of the beautiful gate,
with some statues and various shields of urus. A
part of the ruins was blown down, in 178*2.
KIRKLEATHAM.] — Kirkleatham Hall, a noble
Uothic edifice, of modern erection, is the scat of
Sir Charles Turner, Bart. The front, 132 feet in
length, is adorned by a light and elegant portico,
with Corinthian columns ; the interior is composed
of spacious and lofty apartments, furnished in the
modern style of convenient elegance ; and the sur-
rounding demesne, rich in natural advantages, has
been greatly improved by the judicious hand of art.
Near this mansion is situated the noble institution
called Turner's Hospital, a handsome building, en-
closing three sides of a square. This was founded
and endowed by Sir W. Turner, in Iti76, for forty
poor persons : an equal number, namely, of men,
women, boys, and girls, who are provided with the
necessaries of life, properly instructed, and enabled
to maintain themselves. A small chapel, in the centre
front of this edifice, is finished iu a superior style.
The roof is arched in compartments, supported by
four light columns, of the Ionic order ; from the
centre, depends a large chandelier, of burnished
gold ; over the altar is a stained glass window, re-
presenting the offerings of the Magi at the Nativity,
esteemed one of the finest in the world ; on one
side is a full length figure of John Turner, Esq.
Serjeant at law ; and on the other, one of the founder,
in the robes of his office, the mayoralty of London.
In the library, also, which is valuable, is a striking
likeness in wax of the same personage, with the wig
and band which he actually wore when alive. The
sole government of this charity is vested in the
possessor of the Kirkleatham estate for ever ; and
the management is committed to a chaplain, a master,
and a mistress, who have handsome stipends. — At ft
short distance stands the parish church, a light build-
ing, of stone, the roof of which is supported by six
columns of the Tuscan order. In the chancel is the
tomb and monument of Sir William Turner, beneath
which he was laid, among the humble inmates of his
hospital ; and adjoining the east end is a superb
mausoleum, surmounted by a dome, built by Chom-
ley Turner, Esq. in 1740.
LESTINGHAM.] — At Lestingham, a village four
miles north-eastward from Kirkby Moorside, was
formerly a Benedictine monastery, founded by St.
Chad, about 648. The church is aneient and large,
and probably formed part of the religious founda-
tion.
LEYBJJRN.] — Leyburn, a small market-town, about
two miles from Middleham, is, probably on account
of that vicinity, but little frequented : its trade,
therefore, such as it is, arises, solely from domestic
consumption, and its periodical fairs. Its environs
are fertile, and, consequently, not unpleasing.
MALTON.] — Malton, an ancient and considerable
market and borough town, \~l\ miles N. W. from
York, is pleasantly situated on the north bank of the
river Derwent, over which is a good stone bridge.
The river was made navigable to this town in the
first year of the reign of Queen Anne. The town
consists principally of four long streets, which meet
in the centre, with several smaller streets or lanes.
In the north-west angle is a spacious market place,
which is divided into two parts by the town-hall, the
shambles and St. Michael's church. The town is in
general clean and well built, and carries on a very
brisk trade iu corn, butter, bacon, &c. large quan-
tities of which are sen to London, Hull, Leeds, and
various other places. In return are received salt, gro-
ceries, drugs, coals, woollen cloths, stuffs, &c. The
inhabitants are employed in agriculture, the manu-
facture of gloves, and a little linen.
New Malton contains two churches ; St. Michael's,
and St. Leonard's, which are chapels of ease to
the mother church of Old Malton. St. Leonard's
church is remarkable for a tall unfinished spire, said
to have been left so by the architect through fear of
overbalancing the whole structure. Here are also
chapels and meeting-houses for Methodists, Qua-
kers,
YORKSHIRE.
567
kers, &c. A large, convenient, ami well conducted
work-house was erected here by Thomas Watson
Wentworth, Lord Malton, in 1735 ; but, being sound
too small, it was taken down, and rebuilt in 1789. —
This town is governed by a bailiff and subordinate
officers, and returns two members to parliament.
The right of election is in the burgage- holders,
about 100 in number : the returning officer is the
lord's bailiff, who is appointed at the court- loot of
the Right Hon. Earl Fitz -William, proprietor,
patron, and lord of the manor. In the lower part
of the town, on an eminence nearly opposite the
bridge, are the ruins of its ancient castle ; and, on
the opposite side of the valley, on the hill called
Langton Wold, are the remains of entrenchments,
said to have been thrown up in the civil wars.
The quarter sessions for the Riding are held here.
During their holding, on January 17, 1785, the
centre beams of the sessions-house gave way, and
upwards of 300 persons were precipitated into the
area beneath, a fall of more than 12 feet. No lives
were lost upon the spot ; but some persons subse-
quently died, from the injury sustained, and many
were crippled for life. — About a quarter of a mile
south-west of this town is a mineral spring, said to
possess properties similar to those of the Scarbo-
rough water. Above this, on the top of a hill,
ciklled the Brows, is a pleasant promenade, com-
manding a fine prospeet down the river, and across
the valley, which is terminated by the Wold-hills.
Malton stands in a fertile district, upon the high
road from York to Whitby and Scarborough ; the
road to the latter place turning to the right here,
and crossing the river. About one mile north-west
from Malton, at the village of Broughton, are the
remains of an hospital founded by Eustace St. John.
This village, as well as four or five others, which
stand in a line within a mile of each other, are deno-
minated " Street Towns," from their standing on,
or near, the Roman road leading from Malton in
that direction, which still retains the name of " Spi-
tal Street." Drake and others suppose Malton to
be the Cauielodunutn of the Romans ; and in 1753,
the following Roman inscription was dug up, in a
field called the Pye Pits, opposite the lodge.
The Equites Singularesare
here first mentioned in Bri-
tain. These were part of I
the body guard of the Em-
peror, probably Severus,
and this their appropriate i
burying place.
DM
AYR MA
CRINVS EX
EQ SING AVG
In the Saxon times, Malton was possessed by the
Earls of Siward and Turkill, and at the Conquest
by a nobleman named Colebrand, from whom it was
taken by the conqueror, and given to Gilbert Tyson, \
one of his followers. In the reign of Henry I. |
Eustace St. John possessed this manor by inherit- j
ance from his mother, who was grandaughter of i
G. Tyson. This Eustace, espousing the eause of j
the Empress Maud against King Stephen, delivered
the castle of Malton to David King of Scotland,
who placed a strong garrison here, and laid wasta
the neighbouring country ; but Thurstan, archbishop
of York, having collected an army, defeated the
Scots, took the castle, and reduced the town to
ashes. Eustace, who had fled into Scotland, being
afterwards reconciled to the king, returned into
England and rebuilt the town, which from that time
has been called New Malton. This family being
extinct in the reign of Henry II. the castle came
into the king's possession, who appointed John de
Mowbray its governor. After various transfers by
marriage, the manor was divided in the reign of
Henry VIII. between the Eures, the Cliffords, and
the Comers ; but the family of Eure had the whole
lordship of Old Mutton. Ralph Lord Eure built a
large and magnificent house at New Malton, in the
reign of James I. A large square building, called
the Lodge, with a high wall, and three lofty arched
gateways in front, also some offices and out build-
ings, are still remaining. — After various other trans-
fers, the manors of Old and New Malton became
the property of the family of Wentworth. In the
year 1728, the Hon. Thomas Watson Wentworth
obtained the title of Lord Malton, and in 1734, was
created Marquis of Rockingham. His lordship
dying in 1700, was succeeded in his titles and estates
by his only son, Charles Watson Wentworth, who
died in 1782, and these manors descended to his
nephew. The Right Hon. Earl Fitz-William, the
present noble owner.
The present town of New Malton evidently stand*
upon the ruins of a former one, which had been de-
stroyed by fire ; for in pulling down a very ancient
house (the Old Angel Inn) in the market-place, about
28 years ago, several ancient coins were found,
about the time of Edward II. and in digging the
cellars, about eight or nine feet below the present
pavement, another regular one was discovered, with
the foundations of houses, &c. The walls of some
were about a yard high, and had evidently been
destroyed by fire. In these lower ruins were found
some Roman copper coins, and a small earthen jar. —
Some years previously, a person employed to sink a
well near St. Michael's church, in the market-place,
when about eight or ten feet below the present sur-
face, found the ruins of buildings, which had been
destroyed by fire, among which was a considerable
quantity of lead, which had probably been melted
from some public building. — March 7, 1642, Hen-
rietta, Queen of Charles 1. lay at Malton, on her
way from Bridlington Quay to York.
About half a mile N. E. and on the same side of
the river, is Old Malton, a straggling village, about
three quarters of a mile in length. The road froto
York to Whitby passes through the whole length of
it. This village, in some old maps and writings is
called Oldington. Here are the remains of a priory
for Gilbertine canons, founded and endowed by
Eustace St. John, about the year 1150, and dedi-
cated
568
YORKSHIRE.
cated to (lie Virgin Mary. Part of the uorth aisle of
the old priory church is converted into a parish
church for the inhabitants, and the ancient tower
now stands at the south corner of the building. A
subterraneous passage is said to lead from this place
to New Malton, and thence a distance of six miles
to the priory of Kirkhara, where a similar passage
has been discovered, leading in a direction towards
Malton. In the year 1782, during a very strong
wind, a large tree was torn up by the roots, in the
yard near the lodge at New Malton ; which laid the
passage open at that place. It was partially ex-
plored at that time, but being filled with rubbish
which had fallen down in some places, it could not
be proceeded in far with safety. — Here is a good
free grammar-school, at Old Malton, founded and
endowed with lands by Robert Holgate, Archbishop
of York, iif 1546, and it is now worth about one
hundred pounds per annum, with a good house for
the master. The school and dwelling house are
on the north side of the church-yard, and on the
south side of the church are some buildings still
called the Abbey, and now the residence of Mrs.
Inchbald. The south side and east end of the church
are now an entire ruin. Part of the north side is
converted into the parish church, and the ancient
tower and part of the west end still remain. The
western entrance is a curious and highly finished
specimen of Saxon architecture, and in excellent
preservation.
MASTON.] — The little village of Maston, seven
miles westward from Guisborough, claims a title to
importance from having given birth to our great
circumnavigator, Captain James Cook*.
MASHAM.] — Masliam, situated about seven miles
from Middleham, south eastward, is surrounded by
a country remarkably fertile; and has, besides its
market and fairs, considerable resources in its manu-
factures. The church, here, is handsome, and is
ornamented with a lofty spire.
MIDDLEHAM.]— Situated 44 miles N. W. by W.
from York, is 3Iiddleham, composed principally
of one large quadrangle, in which the market is
held. Its most remarkable feature is the castle, on
the summit of the hill on which stands the town.
This building, erected in 1190, by Robert Fitz-
Ranulf, was the prison of Edward IV. on his depo-
sition, by kingmaker Warwick, and the birth place
of Edward, only son of Richard III. This prince,
when only Duke of Gloucester, procured a licence
from his brother Edward, to make the church colle-
giate, but the design was never completed ; though
the minister of the parish has the title of dean, with
some desirable privileges. Both this place and
Masham are situated near the Ure.
NORTH ALLEHTON.] — North Allerton, situated on
the Wiske, 31 miles N. W. by N. from York, is a
town of remote antiquity, having even been, ac-
cording to Gale, a Roman station. It is, however,
now less remarkable for its former history, than for
the active commerce, from which it derives its pre-
sent prosperity. This arises, chiefly, from its
numerous fairs, particularly for horses. The govern-
ment is vested in a bailiff; and, as an ancient
borough, the town returns two members to parlia-
ment, the right of electing whom is vested in the
holders of certain burgage tenures. In the neigh-
bourhood was fought, in 1138, the famous battle of
the Standard, between the Scots, commanded by
their king, David, and the English, led on by Ralph,
Bishop of Orkney, Walter L'Espee, and \Villiam
de Albemarle, in which the former were defeated
with the loss of 10,000 men, and forced to retire
with precipitation to the Borders. — Near the town,
on the north-west, are the Castle Hills, so denomi-
nated from a castle founded there after the Conquest
by Bishop Galpidus, and destroyed by Henry II.
On these heights also are many vestiges of Roman
intrenchments. — At Osmotherley, in the vicinity of
North Allerton, was a collegiate church ; and a
Carthusian priory : the latter founded in the loth
century.
PICKERING.] — The market-town of Pickering,
26 miles N. N. E. from York, was founded, accord-
ing to tradition, by the Britons, anterior to the
arrival of the Romans. Formerly, it deputed two
representatives to Parliament ; and it still retains
some ancient privileges : as, a jurisdiction over
several of the neighbouring villages. The church,
an antique and spacious edifice, is embellished with
a lofty and well wrought spire. — At the west end of
the town, on a spot famed for its fertility, stands
the castle, the interior of which is now garden
ground. Nevertheless, its ruins are venerable, and
from the elevation of its site it commands a delight-
ful view of the vale. Its origin is uncertain, but
its history is eventful, having often changed its
masters, among the number of whom were Morcar,
Earl of Northumberland, in the days of Edward
the Confessor ; Lord Dacre, after the Conquest ;
and, at subsequent periods, many of our sovereigns.
Since the reign of Edward II. however, the town,
with the castle and manor, has belonged to the
dirchy of Lancaster.
RAVENSWORTH.] — At the village of Ravensworth,
or Kirby Ravensworth, four miles north-westward
* This celebrated man was born in 1728, of humble parents,
and, disliking the occupation of a shop-keeper, in which he had
been placed, went to sea in the coal trade. But in 1755, he
entered on a ship ef war, and soon distinguishing himself ob- |
tallied a mastery's warrant. During the siege of Quebec, he
was employed in the dangerous service of sounding (he St.
Lawrence ; and afterwards completed a chart of that river ; as
"lie soon did of Newfoundland. Having further .distinguished
himself by the accurate observation of an eclipse, and other
researches, he was selected to observe the transit of Venus in
1769. In this, and subsequent voyages of discovery, which
are the objects of universal acquaintance, he shewed an amazing
superiority of genius, courage, and fortitude, coupled wit!)
many milder virtues ; and his death, in 1778, will ever be re-
membered with a feeling of regret.
fron
YORKSHIRE.
from Gilling, is a ruinous castle, which, says Le-
iaiul, "excepting two or three square towers, and
a fair stable, with a Conduit, corning to the hall
side, hath nothing remarkable."
REDCAR.] — The parish of Redcar, including
Marsk, lies on the sea coast, about eight miles
northward from (juisborough ; and is remarkable for
the disproportion which the number of males in the
population boars to the females : arising from (he
emigration of the former to different sea-ports for
employment. But Redcar is not a more fishing vil-
lage : the salubrity of the air, and the beauty of
the scenery, attract, during the summer season,
many visitors, who create a 'variety of healthful
amusements. — Marsk Hall, situated on a bold and
romantic beach, is a seat of Lord Dundas's, founded
in the reign of Charles I.
RICHMOND.] — Richmond, situated on the Swale,
48 miles N. VV. from York, famous for its castle, and
distinguished by the beauty of its environs, was
founded by Alan, Earl of Bretagne, to whom it
had been granted, in 1070, in part of the posses-
sions of Earl Edwin. Seated on the verge of the
corn-country, it is one of the greatest corn-markets
in the county, serving as a depot to the grazing
district. Great disadvantages, however, result from
the want of coals, and the absence of water-carri-
age. The town is small, and built of stone, on a
lofty eminence ; yet the situation being fine, the
market-place spacious, and the streets lined with
genteel shops, it has a lively and agreeable appear-
ance. It possesses two churches ; but its principal
feature is Ihe castle, built by Alan, on the south
side of the town. This edifice, seated on a height
one hundred I'eet above the Swale, must have been,
in the days of its strength, almost impregnable.
The keep, of which the shell is almost entire, is one
hundred feet high, composed of walls eleven feet
thick, and supported in the middle by a vast column
of stone, from which spring circular arches. Other j
parts of the ruins remain, especially a tower, in j
•which is a deep dungeon. The whole has a majestic I
appearance, and adds greatly to the picturesque
effect of the surrounding scenery. Formerly the j
town had three gates ; and a steeple remains, which |
once belonged to a monastery. In the reign of !
Elizabeth, ti»e inhabitants began to enjoy the privi-
lege of electing their own representatives, by a
charter of incorporation, which made the municipal
body to consist of a mayor, recorder, twelve alder-
men, and twenty -four common -councilmen. The
chief trade, as already observed, arises from the
corn-market ; but lead is also brought hither from
the moors in large quantities ; and many of the
inhabitants find employment in the knitting of yarn.
The first Earl of Richmond was the before-menti-
oned Alan ; afterwards the title was possessed by
various families, some of whom were of the blood
royal ; at length it was altered into that of Duke,
by Henry VIII. in favour of his natural son, Henry ;
and Charles II, gave it to his illegitimate child,
VOL. iv. — wo. 182.
Charles Lenox, the primogenitor of the present
family- The scenery about Richmond is incompa-
rably beautiful : composed in the distance of the
northern hills, and in the fore-ground of a valley
through which winds the river in all the pride of
caprice, forming, at one point, a cascade ; and
fertilizing its banks to the most profuse luxuriance.
— At a mile lower, on the Swale, are the remains of
St. Agatha's monastery, now reduced, by repeated
dilapidations, and neglect, to a shapeless ruin.
ROBIN HOOD'S BAY.] — The village, called Robin
Hood's Bay, six miles S. E. from Whitby, doubt-
lessly derived its name from the popular outlaw,
who made it occasionally his retreat. Its situation
is romantic in the extreme : most of the houses being
seated on the face of a steep rock ; many on the
very brink of the precipice, and all apparently sus-
pended in air. Its appearance was formerly still
more extraordinary ; but, towards the close of the
last century, a part of the cliff fell, and carried with
it half the town. The remainder occupies a small
space, but is closely built and populous. The bay,
nearly a mile broad, is shallow, and there is only
one narrow passage by which even fishing boats
can approach the shore with safety. Fishing is the
principal occupation of the inhabitants, who usually
send five boats to the Yarmouth herring fishery.
From the bay to Stoupe Brow, the road lying along
the smooth sand, at the foot of an immense, per-
pendicular rock, is dangerous ; uidess at the recess
of the tide ; for, when advancing, it moves with a
rapidity of which few can admit the idea. — Near
Stoupe Brow, lies the Peak, where are extensive
alum- works ; and where, according to Mr. Charl-
ton, the historian of VVhitby, the Danes under
Inguaraud Ubbn, erected their flag. At that place
also, a stone was discovered, in 1774, on which was
a Latin inscription ; imperfect indeed, yet indicative
of a Roman residence in England as late as the
reign of Justinian.
RUNSWICK.] — Runswick, a small fishing village,
three mill's E. from Staithcs, on an inlet, called
Runswick bay, is remarkable for its singular situa-
tion on the face of a rugged rock ; the top of which,
projecting in an awful manner, threatens to over-
whelm the inhabitants. On the opposite side of
this creek are the alum-works of Kettleness, which
belong to Lord Mulgrave ; and still further, on the
coast at Lund's End are others, the property of
the same nobleman. In the rocks is frequently
found jet, or black amber, which, according to Cam-
den, was classed by the ancients among the most
estimable jewels.
SCARBOROUGH.] — The populous town of Scarbo-
rough, situated 40 miles N. E from York, and
2I8| N. from London, is distinguished for the
romantic beauties of its site, and for its celebrity
as a watering-place. Rising in the figure of an
irregular crescent, from the bosom of a bay formed
by the rock on which it stands, it is indeed marked
by sublime and extraordinary features. The houses,
7 E for
570
YORKSHIRE,
for the most part well built and handsome, appear
scattered over the ever-varying surface, which, at
length rising boldly is crowned, at its summit, with
the majestic ruins of an ancient castle. Its origin
is unknown ; but its name, a corruption of Scaer-
btirg, is evidently of Saxon derivation. Not being
mentioned in Domesday, it had probably, at the
time of that compilation, been reduced to obscurity
by the ravages of the Danes and other pirates, to
which it was exposed in a more than a common de-
groe. Henry II. first granted a charter, which was
afterwards gradually extended by his successors,
John, llem-y III., Edward III., Richard III.,
Charles 1 1., and William III. until the corporation
received its present form, in which it consists of two
bailiffs, two coroners, four chamberlains, and thirty-
six common-councilmen. Scarborough, which de-
putes two representatives to the national council,
is among the most ancient of the boroughs which
enjoy that privilege. Its history is rather that of
the castle ; as, in all active events, that fortress was
the object of enterprise, or the agent of defence.
It was first built by William le Gros, Earl of Albe-
marle and Holderness, in' the unsettled reign of
Stephen ; but, being excepted by Henry II., in
the mandate which he issued for the demolition of the
fortified castles, its governors were from that time
appointed by the king. That monarch both enlarged
it and added to its strength. In the reign of
Edward II., Piers Gaveston was here besieged
by the Earl of Pembroke. In 1378, it received
great injury from a swarm of Scotch, French, and
Spanish pirates, who entered the harbour, and car-
ried off several ships. Richard III. in his short
reign, added to its fortifications. In 1536 it was
attacked, without success, by Robert Ashe, and his
enthusiastic followers, called the pilgrimage of grace.
In 1553, Thomas, son of Lord Stafford, arriving
from France, with only thirty-two attendants, sur-
prised it, by a stratagem, which gave rise to the
proverb, " a Scarborough warning ;" but he re-
tained his acquisition no more than three days, being
reduced by the Earl of Westmorland. During the
civil war of Charles I. it was twice besieged and
taken by the republicans : first, in 1645, when the
parliamentarians found in the town thirty-two pieces
of cannon, and one hundred and twenty ships in the
harbour, opened a battery from the east window of
the church, and reduced the governor, Sir Hugh
Cholmley, to such extremities that most of his men
died of the scurvy ; and afterwards, in 1648, when
Colonel Boynton, having declared for the king, sus-
tained a siege of some duration ; and at length
surrendered on honourable terms. In these conflicts,
the stately tower of the castle, which had long served
as a, land-mark, was demolished, and the whole
edifice so injured that it was neglected as unworthy
of repair, until 1745, when government, considering
its important situation, deposited there a consider-
able quantity of military stores, and otherwise placed
it in a state of defence. — The approach to this edi-
i fice, frowning securely even in decay, is by a gate-
way on the only accessible side. The defences were
t a barbican, a deep fosse, over which is a draw-
; bridge, and the majestic keep, which is now 97 feet
i high. The walls of the last are twelve feet thick ;
: the different stories are vaulted, and divided by
| strong arches ; and tiiose of the windows, which
are larger than usual, are supported by strong round
{ pillars. From this point, an embattled wall, the
whole length of the ditch, was flanked with numer-
i ous semicircular towers, which are now in a state
[ of rapid decay. The advantages of site enjoyed by
' this edifice require to be seen to be fully acknow-
| ledged. Three sides of the rock rise precipitously
; from the sea to the perpendicular height of 330 feet,
and its land side is so steep, that before the inven-
; tion of artillery, the fortress must have been im-
j pregnable. This strength 'was further aided by an
! immense reservoir, near the site of the chapel, sup-
; plied by unknown means, with a light, pure, and
! transparent water. — The principal streets of Scar-
I borough are spacious, well paved, and clean ; and
('the houses are mostly handsome, especially on the
I cliff, where a beautiful terrace commands a fine
diversity of prospect. At the numerous lodging-
houses, visitors are accommodated comme il faut :
that is, in English phrase, with the greatest atten-
tion to their comfort. None of the usual institutions
for amusement ; as, public walks, an elegant assem-
bly-room, a good theatre, and well-stored shops, is
wanting ; and the excellence of the Spa is too gene-
rally notorious, to need a panegyric. This prime
source of the prosperity of Scarborough was disco-
vered about 1620 ; but it was not before 1698, that
a cistern was built for collecting the waters. In
1737, the falling of a large portion of the cliff
threatened its destruction; but on its re-discovery, its
salutary properties were found to be improved rather
than deteriorated. Of the two wells, one is purga-
tive, the other chalybeate. The former contains,
in a gallon, 128 grains of vitriolated magnesia, 58
of vitriolated lime, 28 of carbonate of lime, 16 of'
muriated magnesia, and small proportions of car-
bonate of iron and muriated nitron ; and the latter,
98 grains of vitriolated magnesia, 61 of carbonate
of lime, 54 of vitriolated lime, 14 of muriated
magnesia, with small proportions, also, of the car-
bonate of iron and muriated nitron. The carbonic
acid gas, contained in this water, with a small
quantity of phlogisticated air, is very considerable.
Bathing at Scarborough is both expensive and dan-
gerous : the careful attendance, however, and the
goodness of the machines, render accidents very
rare, notwithstanding the sudden tides, and the
short breakings of the sea, which often come with
great impetuosity. The fine hard sand of the beach
furnishes a delightful promenade. — The church of
Scarborough once belonged to the Cistercian monas-
tery there, and was an edifice of considerable
extent and beauty, as its ruins sufficiently prove.
Having received, however, considerable injury
during
YORKSHIRE.
571
during the sieges of the republicans, much of it was
suffered to decay, and the present building was
erected out of part of the ruins. Besides this,
there are places of worship for Catholics, and nume-
rous sects of dissenters. Another public building
is the Marine Hospital, situated on an airy hill, on
the road to Peas-Holm. — The trade of Scarborough
is inconsiderable, consisting only of a little corn,
butter, bacon, and salt fish, exported ; and of coals,
and other necessaries, for domestic consumption,
imported from Newcastle and London. Ship build-
ing forms a considerable branch of business ; but
there are no manufactories, except of sail cloth and
cordage. The fishery is carried on with less spirit
than at Filey and other places, on the coast, where
we might suppose it would be no more than equally
successful : an. I upon the whole the want of internal
communication by wnter forbidding the conduct of
an extensive trade, notwithstanding the convenience
of the port. The pier, by which the harbour is
partly formed, is of great magnitude : its foundation
being 60 feet broad, its elevation 40 feet, and its
breadth at top 42 feet. The ponderous rocks used
in its construction were taken from a quarry on the
opposite shore, called the White Nab : itself a curio-
sity. Scarborough, being the only safe port between
the Humber and Tinemouth Haven, is much re-
sorted to by vessels navigating the dangerous coast
in stormy weather. — The vicinity of the town is
marked by the most romantic character ; and Oliver's
Mount furnishes a site whence the most extensive
and diversified scenery may be contemplated, at one
enchanting glance. It must be confessed, how-
ever, that this landscape in the immediate vicinity
of the town, is deficient in one grand feature, namely,
trees, which do not thrive on a spot so exposed by
its elevation to all the violence of the sea blasts.
That which detracts from the. beauty of the scenery,
nevertheless, contributes to the salubrity of the cli-
mate; and in no place of Great Britain do the inha-
bitants attain a more advanced age, or enjoy in a
higher degree the blessing of health.
SCAMOOR.] — The village of Scamoor, situated
four miles from Scarborough, south-westward, was
formerly distinguished by a weekly market ; and
still enjoys an annual fair, which is much resorted
to by inhabitants of the surrounding country. Here,
in 1548, some desperate men, among whom were the
parish-clerk, and some farmers, created a sedition,
under pretence of reforming the abuses in religious
matters ; and even committed several barbarous
murders, by way of shewing the sincerity of their
intentions ; but the Lord President having detached
a few troops from York, they were speedily dis-
persed ; -their leaders tried and executed, and the
rest, on returning to their duty, pardoned.
SHERIFF HUTTON.] — Sheriff Hutton is an irre-
gularly built village, situated about ten miles from
York, on the verge of the low level tract, formerly
covered by the forest of Galtres. The church is
spacious and neat ; but the place is remarkable,
chiefly, for the ruins of its castle, which consist of
seven stately towers. The rooms in one of these
are entire ; and in the uppermost are visible the
remains of a painting. This castle was founded in
the reign of Stephen, by Geoffrey de Balmer, whose
heiress carried it into the family of Nevil. The last
of this family, having taken the wrong side in the
war of the Roses, Edward IV. seized his estates,
and made his castle a royal prison, in which were
afterwards confined the monarch's own children.
The manor and castle now belong to the Marquis of
Hertford.
SMEATON.] — The village of Smeaton, situated
about seven miles from Northallerton, northward,
deserves attention for the latitude, and grandeur of
its prospects. In the vicinity, also, is an object of
peculiar interest, in the ruins of a Carthusian priory.
This edifice, founded in the reign of Richard II.
by Thomas de Holland, Duke of Surrey, is dis-
tinguished by the romantic and impressive, yet
pleasing, gloom of its situation, in a vale, founded
by a wooded hill, where its outline remains, " in-
ruinous perfection," covered, perhaps supported, by
clustering ivy. Part has been converted into a
farm-house. Fortunately, the church, the tower of
which is entire, has been held sacred. The hill is
crowned with a cell, called Our Lady's Chapel.
SOWERBY.] — The pleasant village of Sowerby,
only a quarter of a mile distant from Thirske, is
connected with that place by a fine gravel walk ; the
favourite promenade of the inhabitants of both
places.
STAINTON DALE.] — Stainton Dale, a hamlet,
situated south eastward from Robin Hood's Bay,
belonged to the Knights-Templars, on the condition
among others that they should entertain such poor
people and travellers as passed that way : providing1
themselves with a good-sounding bell and a horn,
which they were to ring and blow at twilight every
evening, to give due notice to the objects of this
charitable provision. At four miles south eastward
is the village of Cloughton.
STAITHES.] — Staithes is a village on the bold
romantic coast, eastward from Redcar, the inhabi-
tants of which, are principally fishermen and their
families. The fishery here is carried on with great
activity : in winter, in small boats, called cobles,
each carrying three men, flat-bottomed, and so con-
structed as to live in the most tempestuous weather;
and, in summer, in boats of a larger size, called
" five men cobles," in which the men continue at
sea the whole week. Staithes generally sends fifteen
vessels to Yarmouth, in the herring season : a greater
number than is sent from any other place on the
Yorkshire coast. — At about a mile westward are the
alum-works of Boulby.
STOKESLEY.] — Stokesley, a small market town of
Cleveland, forty-three miles N. VV. from York, con-
sists of one broad street, which runs along the
northern bank of a principal branch of the Seven.
The houses are modern, and for the most part, not
unpleasing ;
672
YORKSHIRE.
tinpleasing ; and the environs, mostly meadow land,
are occupied by the inhabitants in small allotments.
TANFIELD.] — At Tanfield, a village two miles
southward from Marsham, was an ancient castle of
the Marmions, the gate-house of which alone re-
mains.— At West Tanfield, distant about two miles,
there are, in the church, says Leland, " divers
tombes of the Marmions ; whereof one is an arch
of the waulle, and that seemeth most auntient. Then
lyith (her alane a ladye with the apparel of a vowes,
and another ladye with a crownet on her hedde.
Then is (her an high tomb of alabaster in the
middle of the chapel, wher, as I hard say lyith one
Lord John Marmion. And in the southe side of
the chapel is another tombe of the Marmions,
buried alone." Of the castle, or manor-house,
Leland adds, that he saw nothing, but " a towrid
gate-house, and a hull of a squared stone ;" the
former of which remains.
THIRSKE.] — The well built and pleasant market-
town of Thirske, 23 miles N. W. by N. from York,
consists of two parts, the Old and New ; on oppo-
site banks of a rivulet, called Codbeck. In the
centre is the market-place, which, but for the ruin-
ous toll-booth and the shambles, would be thought
one of the best in the county. The church, situated
on a.n eminence at the north end of the town, is a
handsome building, in the mixed Saxon and Gothic
styles. The roof, which is elliptical, is Irish oak,
ornamented with sculpture, and supported by a
double series of pointed arches. The battlements
of the tower are open-work; and in the chancel,
near the altar, three ornamented stone seats remain.
In this part of the church was interred the Hon.
Miss Sparre, daughter of Baron Sparre, Swedish
minister at the English court, and a faithful servant
of Charles XII. At the south-western extremity
of the town are seen the moat and rampart of the
ancient castle of the Mowbrays^ which was demo-
lished in the reign of Henry II. Among other
institutions of the place, as methodist, quaker, and
calvinistic meeting-houses, is a school of Industry,
at which poor girls are clothed and instructed in the
useful arts of life. The part of the town called Old
Thirske, being a borough by prescription, returns
two members to parliament, the privilege of electing
whom is vested in the burgage tenements, now fifty
iu number, forty-nine of which belong to one man !
— The abbey of Byland, situated at a short dis-
tance from Thirske, was founded in 1177 by Roger
de Mowbray, and continued till the general wreck,
when its revenues were estimated at nearly 300/.—
Thirleby Hall, the seat of Sir Thomas Frank-
land, Bart, four miles from Thirske, is an elegant
* She was the niece of Edwin, first Christian King of North-
umberland, passed some of her earliest years in France, and
on her return to England, was esteemed a fit person to pres'.de
over i lie ne« monastery. Such was her reputation for sanctity,
that the institution was after her death designated by the name
of St. Hilda's ; and the impression of her merit was so great.
modern structure, environed by extensive pleasure
grounds.
WHITBY.] — The populous and commercial town
of Whitby, situated 46 miles N. N. E. from York,
on two declivities at the month of the Eske, owes
its origin to its celebrated abbey, which was founded
by King Oswy, of Northumberland, in 650. Its
name was then Streanshalk ; afterwards, it was
called Presteby ; and its present appellation was
probably derived from the whiteness of its houses.
By the history of its abbey, of which the celebrated
Hilda was the first superior,* it appears to have
attained considerable importance before 867, when
it was destroyed by the invasion of Inguar and
Ubba. From that period it remained in a ruinous
condition, till refounded by William de Percy, an-
cestor of the house of Northumberland. This last
event took place soon after the Conquest ; and,
though it was once again pillaged by the Norwegians,
its posterity continued with small intermission till
the general dissolution. The temporal history of
Whitby commences about 1540, when it was no
better than a small-fishing-town ; and the important
discovery of the alum mine in the neighbouring dis-
trict, with the opening of the works at Sands
End, in 1615, was the first means of raising it to
some degree of maritime consequence. Two great
branches of trade were soon opened : one for sup-
plying the works with coals ; the other for exporting
the produce. In 1632, the building of the stone
piers was begun ; and, such was the effect of their
completion, that, in 1660, the number of ships, be-
longing to the port, amounted to thirty. By act of
parliament, in 1702, and 1703, the eastern pier was
built, extending from the eastern cliff, almost 200
yards to the channel of the Esk. A western pier
was soon added ; and this beautiful work, augment-
ed at different times, for the greater security of the
harbour, now extends a regular length of 520 yards ;
terminating in a circular head, on which is a battery,
with a good parapet, and embrasures for five pieces
of cannon. These improvements so increased the
trade of Whitby, that, in 1730, no fewer than 130
vessels of 80 tons burthen belonged to the port ;
and the inhabitants, being able to expend 40,000/.
or 50,000/. annually in ship building, soon began to
construct dry docks on both sides of the river. Thus
it appears that the prosperity of Whitby began with
the alum works ; was increased by the increase of
its shipping ; and consummated by the formation of
its harbour. In 1777, it possessed 251 vessels ;
mnny were employed in the transport service during
the iate war; and it usually sends a quota of twelve
or fourteen lo the Greenland fishery. — Seated on the
that a popular idea still prevails of her apparition in a glorified
state, on one of the windows of Whitby church. Like Robin
Hood, and oilier persons who have distinguished themselves in
a dark age, erring tradiiion has made her the subject of every
popular legend of the neighbourhood.
face
YORKSHIRE.
573
face of two declivities, which lie open to every blast
of the north and east, Whitby cannot be supposed to
enjoy a genial air ; ami even in summer the degree
of heat is never excessive. Its climate, however,
though stormy and cold, is salubrious, and many
instances are related of longevity among its inha-
bitants. The two declivities on which the townstands,
lie on opposite sides of the river Esk, which forms
the port, and is crossed by a draw-bridge, at the
mouth of the inner harbour. — The streets are built
in a close and irregular manner ; most of them are
narrow, and some of them ill-paved and steep ;
and it is not unusual to see the elegant habitations
of the opulent surrounded by the squalid dwellings
of poverty. Nor are there any public buildings,
worthy of particular notice : the town-hall, erected by
the late Mrs. Chohnley, is a heavy pile, of the Tuscan
order ; and the parish church, originally Gothic, has
undergone many alterations, and now retains little
of its ancient form. Around the altar, are the tombs
of the Cholmley family ; and, over the door of the
vestry, a superb monument commemorates General
Lascelles, a native of Whitby, and a brave man.
Three chapels of ease have been erected in the adja-
cent villages ; and one, in the town, where are also
a catholic chapel, and several dissenting conventi-
cles.— The poor-house -is judiciously conducted, on
an extensive plan ; and a dispensary, established in
1786, is upheld by principles equally liberal. — The
ruins of VVhitby Abbey, now reduced to those of its
church, occupy the summit of a cliff, eastward from
the town. The dimensions of this church, as given
by Charlton, were : length 100 yards, breadth 23,
length of transept 50, height of the nave 20, and
50 yards the height of the tower ; constituting a
vast and superb structure, of which few distinct
remains exist. — At the Dissolution, the site of the
abbey and its lands became the property of Sir
Richard Cholmley, in whose descendant they re-
main vested. — The environs of Whitby are romantic
and beautiful, decorated and enlivened by the ele-
gant mansion of its opulent inhabitants, and inter-
spersed with numerous substantial farm-houses.
Among the seats, must be noticed Airy Hill, R.
Moorson, Esq. ; Meadow Field, H. Simpson, Esq.;
Field House, Christopher Richardson, Esq. ; Pros-
pect Hill, Miss Boulby ; The Mount, W. Reynolds,
Esq. ; and the mansion of the Cholmleys, situated
between the parish church and the ruins of the abbey ;
where, however, the proprietor seldom resides. The
neighbourhood is, also, a fruitful field for the na-
turalist, abounding in anamolous productions; as,
petrifactions of shells and marine animals, and even
i of human, and other bones. Among the curiosities
of this place, also, must be noticed the ammonitae,
or snake-stones, which abound. These, like most
other uncommon productions, which strike the minds
* The son of this nobleman, created a peer in 1790, was
one of those adventurous spirits, born to serve and to asto-
nish mar-kind. He was placed in the navy at an early age, and
VOL. IV. — NO. 182. *
of the vulgar with wonder in all ages, have been
made an instrument for vilifying the ancient forms
of religion in this country ; many modern writers
pretending that they were used to infuse super-
stitious devotion into the minds of the people, who,
it is well known, are more apt to believe the sug-
gestions of their own gross ignorance, than to wait
for the opinions of the enlightened. Mr. Charlton,
who, otherwise, where his prejudices do not inter-
fere, was a plain well meaning person, and a faith-
ful chronicler, says, that it is yet a constant tradition
among the vulgar, in that part of the country, that
these were real snakes, which, being driven over the
cliff, by Lady Hilda, and losing their heads by the
fall, were afterwards, by her prayers, transformed
into stones. " Such," adds another sapient reasoner,
"is the credulity and superstition of the multitude :
it is needless to say that these monkish miracles,
and absurd legends, are treated with contempt, by
all persons of an enlightened understanding." Is
it not a more liberal and a more probable suppo-
sition, that the legend is a creation of the people,
who, in this district, have accustomed themselves
to refer all miracles to St. or Lady Hilda ? Thus
the bards of our ancestors ascribed the exploits of
many heroes to one, Arthur ; and the ancients, the
labours of many a Hercules to one, whom they ex-
alted into a demi-god. — The ancient castle of Mul-
grave, four miles westward from Whitby, was the
fortress of the Saxon Duke, Wada, whom tradition
has transformed into a giant. After the Conquest,
the change of its masters was frequent. In 1625,
it belonged to Edmund Lord Sheffield, created by
Charles I. Earl of Mulgrave. His family having
become extinct, the title was revived in the person
of Constantino Phipps ;* whose direct male issue
failing, in 1792, it was given to the present Earl, a
member of the same family. — We must not quit
Wl'.itby without recording a calamity, which threat-
ened the most frightful consequences. In the year
1785, a narrow but deep chasm had been observed
to run behind some houses situated at the bottom of
a high cliff; and, on the 24th December, 1787, about
midnight, a strong new built quay, supporting seve-
ral buildings, more than twenty yards above the
margin of the sea, gave way, the people scarcely
having time to escape before it fell with a tremen-
dous crash, followed by large masses of earth, in-
termixed with stones of from three to six tons in
weight. Several more houses, torn from others which
were left impending over the awftil precipice, shared
the same fate. The ensuing morning presented a
dreadful spectacle of buildings parting from their
adjoining ones, forming wide rents from the roofs
to the foundations, and others partly, or wholly,
gone. In addition to this affecting scen«, ponderous
masses of earth and stones began to descend from
attained the first honours in that branch of the national esta-
blishment, distinguished in his political as in his naval career.
He died, October 10, 1792.
7 r the
574
YORKSHIRE.
the cliff on the houses situated at its foot. The
back buildings were soon buried ; and those in the
front impelled towards the street, overhanging their
bases, threatened the destruction of those on the
opposite side. The church now appeared to be in
imminent danger, as the ground was observed to
sink within twelve yards of its tower. Had that
part of the church-yard given way, a body of earth,
more thari two acres in extent must inevitably have
' overwhelmed the remaining buildings in Henrietta
Street. But although happily this was not the case,
the calamity was dreadful ; one hundred and ninety-
six families became, in this inclement season, desti-
tute of lodging, food, and firing. To the honour
of Whitby let it be recorded, that the doors of the
humane were thrown open, and every comfort was
administered to the unfortunate sufferers.
WIKEHAM.] — The village of Wikeham, situated
seven miles south-westward from Scarborough, is
distinguished for the neatness of its church ; and
for the ruins of an ancient tower, said to be the re-
mains of a chapel. Here also was a priory, of which
some traces remain, very ruinous. The mansion-
house, the seat of R. Langley, Esq. is a spacious
modern building, surrounded by plantations.
YARM.] — The market-town of Yarm, situated
45 miles N. N. W. from York, on a low peninsula
formed by the Tees, is exposed to inundations, which
form the distinguishing feature in its history. Of
these, one, which occurred in 1753, broke so sud-
denly upon the town, that many houses were washed
down, and property of all kinds, dead and alive,
carried away by the current. Another, which occured
in 1771, was regarded as the greatest land flood
remembered in the north of England : the water,
rising in some parts of the town, to the height of
20 feet ; and many of the inhabitants being rescured
from the roofs of their houses in boats. By these
alarming visitations, Yarm lost much of the import-
ance which it might have otherwise owed to its situ-
ation. Its present sources of trade are the corn and
salted provisions, sent to London. It consists chiefly
of one main street, which runs north and south ;
and which might be pronounced handsome were
it not blocked up by the toll booth and the shambles,
which exhibit a scene of disgusting nastiness. The
bridge -over the Tees consists of five arches, built
by Walter Skirlaw, Bishop of Durham, about the
year 1400, and recently improved by judicious re-
pairs. In 1803 and 1804, abridge of cast-iron was
thrown across the river ; but gave way within a short
time after its completion. The church is neat, and,
though modern, has a beautiful window of stained
glass, representing Moses in the act of delivering
the law from Mount Sinai.
WEST RIDING.] — The West Riding, bounded,
north-eastward, by an irregular line which crosses
the county, from the source of the Ure, near Hawes,
to the junction of that river with the Trent ; west-
ward, by Lancashire, from the Lon to Hudders-
field; and, southward, by the uneven limits of
Derby, Nottingham and Lincoln, must be regarded,
as the most important division of Yorkshire, whe-
ther we consider its extent, population, or trading
consequence. It is composed of nine wapentakes :
Agbrigg and Morley, Barkston Ash, Claro, Ew-
cross, Osgoldcross, Skirack, Staincliffe, Staincross,
Strafforth snd Tiokill ; and the City and Ainsty of
York, which will be considered under its own head.
ABBERFORD.] — The small market-town of Abber-
ford, 5f miles S. W. by S. from Tadcaster, situated
on a limestone rock of easy ascent, and small ele-
vation, consists, chiefly, of one long straggling
street, built for the most part of stone. Here is a
seat of Sir Charles Turner, Bart, and at Parlington,
a mile southward, is an agreeable mansion, late the
property of the Gascoigne family, extinct by the
death of Sir T. Gascoigne, Bart. On the banks of
the little river Cock, near Abberford, are the ruins
of an old fortification, called Castle Cary ; and the
almost perfect remains of the great Roman cause-
way.
ALDBURGH.] — On the southern back of the Ure,
two miles from Borough -bridge, eastward, is Ald-
burgh, now an inconsiderable place, but once cele-
brated under the name of Isurium, the capital city
of the Brigantes. It was refounded by the Romans
about the year 70, on an area of sixty acres ; the
walls, which may yet be traced, being no less than
2,500 yards, or nearly a mile and a half, in circuit
The remains of that powerful people are very nume-
rous ; consisting of the foundations of the city wall,
full five yards in thickness and depth ; domestic,
and other utensils, funeral urns, and human remains ;
and large quantities of coins, of the emperors from
Augustus to Constantine. The tesselated pavements
also discovered at various times, are both numerous
and beautiful. — The present name of the place sig-
nifies Old Town, in allusion to its antiquity at the
arrival of the Saxons. That people probably de-
stroyed, and afterwards refounded it. It was again
demolished by the Danes ; and we are bound to
suppose that when the Conqueror did not leave a
house standing between York and Durham, it shared
the general desolation. These probabilities are sup-
ported by the depth of rubbish (more than two feet,)
accumulated on the Roman remains of the city.
The present town of Aldburgh, though it still ranks
as a borough, and sends two representatives to
Parliament, is, iu its general appearance, little
better than a village. The church, which is ancient,
is supposed to have been erected out of the ruins
of Isurium : as, on the outer wall of the vestry, are
some sculptured stones ; and a broken figure of Mer-
cury, two feet and a half long. Here, in a spacious
mansion, called the Hall, formerly resided the family
of Aldburgh ; of whom one memorial exists in the
church, in the figure of an armed knight, inlaid,.
in brass, on a flat stone : with the simple inscrip-
tion: " Will: De Aldburgh," on a scroll.
ALDFIELD.] —The village of Aldfield, situated in
Skeldale, a few miles from Rippon, deserves notice
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YORKSHIRE.
575
for its medicinal springs, of a sulphureous quality.
These are situated on the southern side of the vale,
which is richly clothed with wood ; a tine stream,
abounding with trout, runs hetween them ; and a
sourer of fresh water issues within a few yards.
ALMONDSBURY.] — At Altuondsbury, a village a
short distance southward from Huddersfield, are
some vestiges of an ancient castle, and an intrench-
incnl ; which induced Camden to place there the
Roman station, Cambodunum ; though there are no
remains corroborative of sucli an opinion. In early
times, this place was of some importance ;,and had
a royal villa, which, with the church, was burned in
the wars between Penda and Edwin.
ASKF.BN.] — Askern is one of the numerous places
in this Riding, which enjoy the distinction of a
mineral spring. The waters of this resemble, in
smell and taste, the Harrowgate spa ; but, taken
internally, differ materially in their operation ; acting
chiefly as a diuretic, without any of that cathartic
power, for which the Harrowgate waters are so re-
markable. The village is situated at the foot of a
hill, about eight miles from Doncaster, directly
northward. The spring rises at the distance of a
few yards only from a piece of water called Askern
pool, seven acres in extent ; and is much frequented
by rheumatic or scorbutic patients, who seldom fail
to obtain the relief which they seek.
BARNSLEY.] — The large market town of Barns-
ley, situated 40 miles S. W. by S. from York, is
well built, chiefly of stone ; but being surrounded
by coal-pits, and iron-works, the smoke from which
obscures the air ; it is called Black-Barnsley. The
black glass bottles, made here, are deemed of ex-
cellent quality ; and the manufacture of linen is
carried on, to a great extent. The church is spaci-
ous ; and a good free-school was founded and en-
dowed in 1665. — At the distance of three miles
southward, is Wentworth Castle, the seat of Henry
Vernon, Esq., situated on a commanding eminence,
and surrounded by a beautiful park, which abounds
•with both wood and water.
BAWTRY.] — Bawtry, situated 41 miles S. by E.
from York, on the verge of the county, is of incon-
siderable size, but well-built and even handsome.
The principal street, especially, through which lies
the London road, contains several elegant houses.
The object, however, which most attracts and de-
serves attention here, is the sumptuous mansion of
the Dowager Viscountess Galway, built of brick,
and environed by the most delightful groves. — At
the distance of one mile southward, is the village
of Scroby, remarkable for having formerly had a
palace of the archbishops of York, the only re-
maining part oi which has been converted into a
farm-house. — Northward from Bawtry, three miles,
and in the parish of Austerfield, is Finningley
Park, a seat of J. Harvey, Esq. This is remark-
able, chiefly for a curious and elegant cottage,
which the proprietor has erected in the centre of a
wood, and in which he occasionally resides with his
family.
BERWICK IN ELMET.] — The village of Berwick-
in-Elmet, situated on the south-eastern edge of
Bramham Moor, is said to have been a royal seat
of the Northumbrian kings ; and it is true that ex-
tensive foundations of walls have been discovered
there. On the moor, also, are very conspicuous
remains of the Roman road. Near this is Bramham
Park, the seat of J. L. Fox, Esq. *a stately build-
ing, erected by Lord Bingley, in the last century.
BINGLEY.] — The market-town of Bingley, 6J
miles N. W. from Bradford, is distinguished for its
size, and the goodness of its houses, which are
ranged, chiefly, in one long street. The church,
repaired in the reign of Henry VIII. is a plain but'
neat edifice. Bingley is remarkable, chiefly, for
its situation ; a gentle eminence, which, command'
ing two richly wooded vallies, is both picturesque
and salubrious. Near Morton, a lordship in this
parish, was found a treasure in Roman coin, pro-
bably the most valuable ever discovered in the island.
It consisted of a very large quantity of denarii, in
excellent preservation ; for the greater part of the
Emperors Severus, Caracalla, and Geta ; and con-
tained in the remains of a large brass box, which
had probably been the military chest of a Roman
legion.
BOROUGH-BRIDGE.] — The town and borough of
Borough-bridge, situated on the Ure, 17 miles N.
N. W. from York, derived its origin and name, as it
now does its principal support, from the circum-
stance of the great north road here crossing the
Ure. Since 1557, it has returned two representa-
tives to parliament. The houses are neat, and the
market-place is embellished with a handsome fluted
column, of the Doric order. The old mansion of
the Tancredes has been converted into an inn. Here
was fought, in 1321, the battle between Edward II.
and the disaffected barons, in which the rebel Lan-
caster was taken prisoner. — At half a mile south-
westward, are three large obelisks, called the
Arrows ; composed of single stones placed nearly
in a right line. The northernmost is eighteen feet
in height ; the next, twenty-two feet six inches, and
the third, twenty-two feet four inches. An exca-
vation being made, in 1709, about the base of the
central obelisk, it was found to reach to the depth
of nine feet below the surface ; and to be supported
by courses of large rough pebbles, laid in a bed of
coarse grit and clay, so hard that it was scarcely
penetrable. Under the stones, nearly two yards
from the surface, was a still stronger clay ; and a
little lower was the flat bottom of the stone, resting
on a bed of the same cement, with all the marks
of a first dressing upon it. The whole length is
thirty feet six inches. As is usual in such cases,
various opinions have been started on the subject of
these obelisks : some supposing them to be erections
of the Druids, but the majority concurring in as-
scribing
576
YORKSHIRE.
scribing them to the Romans. However this be, it
is plain, that they are the productions of a people
•who possessed considerable mechanical skill ; but
•who were as yet remote from the point of refinement
which the Romans had attained before their -arrival
in Britain.
BRADFORD.] — The market and manufacturing town
of Bradford, 34 miles S.W. from York, is plea-
santly situated at the junction of three beautiful and
extensive rallies ; and possesses the advantage of
a navigable canal, which, branching from the Leeds
and Liverpool, near Shipley, penetrates the heart of j
the town. This place is distinguished for its inanu- j
factufes of woollen-cloth, yarn, cotton, &c. ; and
its neighbourhood for numerous « iron forges, and
founderies, on an extensive, scale. Being seated on a
dry soil, the air is sharp and healthful. The town is
we'll built, almost entirely of stone. The church, a
spacious building, is somewhat gloomy ; but the
new meeting-house is both large and elegant. In
the civil wars, Bradford declared for the republican
party ; and was, in consequence, exposed to the
attacks of the royalists, until Sir Thomas Fairfax
came to its defence ; and he, being attacked by the
Earl of Newcastle, was soon obliged to evacuate the
town, with precipitation, after having in vain offered
to capitulate. — At this place was born, in 1644, the
Right Rev. John Sharp, Archbishop of York : a
prelate distinguished for his learning, eloquence, and
exemplary life. — This very extensive parish contains
the townships of Eccleshill, Shipley, North Bierley,
Bowling, Horton, Clayton Thornton, Heaton, Man-
ningham, and Hawath, all remarkably popular,
and distinguished for the industrious spirit of their
inhabitants.
BROTHERTON.] — At Brotherton, six miles from
Sherburne, " was borne Thomas, sunne to King
Edward I. : the Quene by chaunce labouring as she
•went on hunting." Near the church is an area of
twenty acres, surroundedby a trench and wall ; where
stood the house in which the queen was delivered.
In the morass, called Brotherton Marsh, are often
found human skeletons, ancient armour, and other
relics. — At Burton Grange, two miles north-east-
ward from Barnsley, is an hospital for widows,
founded in 1675, by Mary Armyn.
CARLTON.] — At Carlton, six miles from Selby,
•southward, is the handsome seat of the family of
Stapleton, descended from a royalist officer, who
distinguished himself during the civil war, as one
of the brave defenders of Pontefract Castle.
CASTLEFORD.] — ThevillageofCastleford is pointed
out by Gough, as the Legiolium of Antoninus. The
uppearances of this station certainly exist near the
ehurcb, and are called Castle Garth. Abundance
of Roman coins and other antiquities have also been
found.
CAWOOD.] — The small market-town of Cawood,
five miles N.W. byN. from York, is situated near
the west bank of the Oust1. Here was formerly a
magnificent palace of the Archbishops of York ; in
which many of those prelates closed their mortal
career. It was at this place, also, that Cardinal
Wolsey was arrested by the Earl of Northumberland.
Tobias Matiiews, the sixty-sixth, and George Mon-
teign, the sixty seventh archbishop, both died at
Cawood, in 1628. The latter was a native of this
place ; and it is remarked, as an extraordinary case,
that he should have quitted it a poor boy (being only
a farmer's son) and have returned, endowed with
the archiepiscopal dignity. Cawood Castle was
among the number of those, which were dismantled
by order of the parliament ; and, having been since
abandoned by its right reverend proprietors, it has
gradually fallen to decay. Of this once magnificent
palace, nothing is now left, hut the ruins of the
great gateway, and a few other unimportant frag-
ments.
COCKRIDGE.] — At the village of Cockridge, two
miles northward from Kirkstall, Roman coins have
frequently been found ; and in 1702, traces of a
Roman town were discovered on the adjacent moor.
CONISBROUGH.] — Coiiisbrough, a large and plea-
sant village, on the Doncaster and Rotherham road,
almost equidistant from those places, is remarkable
for its ancient castle, which, occupying the summit
of a considerable eminence, and retaining many of its
original features, is, perhaps, one of the most curious
remains of antiquity in this part of the island. It
lias been large and massive. The ground-plot is an
irregular oval, surrounded by a fosse, forty feet deep,
filled with large elms, and many ash trees. The
lower part of the outer wall, and several conical
towers, by which it was defended, remain ; the foun-
dations of the inner wall are, in some places, visible ;
and the strong tower, or keep, which is seventy-
eight feet high, is almost entire. The origin of this
castle must have been very early, if, as Geoffry of
Monmouth assures us, Hengist, the first Saxon in-
vader, having been defeated in the neighbourhood,
by Ambrosius, in 487, retreated thither ; and,
hazarding a second engagement, was slain before
its walls : it is rather reasonable to reject this story ;
and suppose, that, there having been a fort here
before the Conquest, the castle was founded on its
site, by William, first Earl of Warren, to whom it
was granted. Near the castle, indeed, a barrow is
shewn, said to be the grave of Hengist, but it con-
tains no proof of an interment ; and it is generally
believed that Hengist' s exploits were confined to
the limits of Kent.
COWTHOUPE.] — At Cowthorpe, a village nearly
seven miles south-eastward from Knaresborough, is
the estate of Lord Petre ; on which may be seen the
famous oak, exceeding in size even the Greendale
oak, at Welbeck, in Nottinghamshire. The prin-
cipal branch was rent oft' by a storm in 1718, and,
being accurately measured, was found to contain
u-pvvards of five tons of timber. Its present cir-
cumference, at the ground, is sixty feet ; its prin-
cipal limb extends forty-five, feet from the trunk ;
and its shadow is said to cover nearly half an acre.
Here
YORKSHIRE.
577
Here was found, in 1749, the head of a stag, with
the horns entire, which measured six feet between
their extremities.
DENT.] — The small market-town of Dent, 21 miles
N. W. by N. from Settle, is situated in a seques-
tered and beautiful vale, to which it communicates
the name of Dent Dale. Here, landed property is
much divided ; the small estates are mostly occupied
by the owners ; and, being chiefly in grass, produce
large quantities of butter and cheese. Both in the
town and its vicinity, considerable quantities of
stockings are knitted for the Kendal market.
DEWSBURY.] — Dewsbury, amarket-town, six miles
W. N. W. from Wakefield, is seated, partly on the
southern declivity of a gentle eminence, and partly
in a vale, watered by the Calder. This situation is
fine; and the town, when viewed, with its environs,
from the steep above, appears beautiful and interest-
ing. It is a place of considerable antiquity ; and,
if an inscription on the church is to be relied on,
which implies that Paulinus, the first archbishop 'of
York, preached here in 627, it has been of note,
since the introduction of Christianity. By means
of the navigable river Calder, an overflowing popu-
lation, and a plentiful supply of coal, Dewsbury
possesses almost every advantage for carrying on
manufactures with spirit. These are chiefly of
blankets and coarse broad cloths. The environs,
rising in gentle eminences, are extremely pleasant.
DONCASTER.] — Doncaster, situated on the Don,
from which circumstance, perhaps, and that of its
having been a Roman station, (Caslmm) it derives
its modern appellation, is distinguished for the beauty
and regularity of its buildings, its happy situation,
and the general opulence and respectability of its
inhabitants. Its southern entrance is, indeed, mag-
nificent: the race-ground, with its beautiful railing
and stand, two or three houses, resembling rather
palaces than private mansions, and the fine obelisk,
called Hall Cross, meeting the eye at the same
moment, combine to give a most impressive cha-
racter to the whole scene. The High-Street, Hall-
gate, French-gate, and Marsh-gate, which form
one continuous line on the great north road, are,
together, nearly a mile in length ; and from the
north-eastern to the western extremity of the town,
the distance exceeds half a mile. The public build-
ings of Doncaster are, the church, which, founded
on the site of an ancient castle near the Don, claims
a date as early as the Conquest, and is adorned with
xan elegant tower, but contains no object of import-
ance, if we except the font, dated 1061, eight bells,
and an excellent organ, and library ; the mansion-
house, a magnificent structure, founded in 1744,
and completed at an expence of 8000/. which was
defrayed by the corporation ; the town-hall, where
the business of that body is chiefly transacted, their
records kept, and a court of requests held ; a
commodious theatre ; an hospital, for six decayed
house-keepers ; a public dispensary ; a work- house ;
a well regulated school of industry ; and places of
VOL. iv. — NO. 182.
public worship for presbyterians, methodists, qua-
kers, and independents. Not far from the middle
of the town, the markets are held, in spacious, but
irregular, areas. The shambles, built by the corpo-
ration, in 1756, are covered with a slated roof, and
supported by a colonnade of twenty-tour pillars.
The butter cross, erected at the same time, is a
building of octangular form, supported by pillars,
and entered on every side by an ascent of several
steps. Further eastward, is a l.irge square, called
the Magdalenes, where the fish-market is held, the
gardeners display their vegetables, and the dealers
in pottery, their wares. The corn -market is held
in a spacious area, further northward. The corpo-
ration of Doncaster, composed by ancient charters,
often renewed, of a mayor, a recorder, a town-clerk,
twelve aldermen, and twenty-four common council-
men, possesses a revenue of about 70,00/. which being
rightly appropriated, the inhabitants enjoy many
advantages, seldom met with in other places : paying
no assessments for paving and lighting, constable's
assessment, and comparatively inconsiderable sums
under the name of poor's rates. — The races at this
place, known as the chief meeting of the kind in
the north of England, occur in the last week of
September, and continue four days, during which
the town is crowded with families of distinction ;
every evening exhibits a play at the theatre, and a
brilliant ball at the mansion-house; lodgings are
let at a high rate, and tradesmen find an extraor-
dinary demand for their several commodities. — Don-
caster, as already observed, was a Roman station,
the Danum of Antoninus ; and the place, where,
according to the Notitia, the prefect of the Crispinian
Horse was placed in garrison. Nennius gives it the
name of Caer Daum ; by the Saxons, it was called
Doua-cercen ; and, by the Scots, Doncastle. At the
Conquest, Doncaster was included in the grant to
the Earl of Moreton ; and was by him allotted to his
retainer, Nigel Fossard ; but was soon carried by
marriage, into the family of the Mauleys ; which,
however, became extinct in the male line, in the
reign of Henry VI. From a female branch of this
family, descended Ralph Salvyne, Esq. who, in
the reign of James 1. claimed the lordship of Don- .
caster and all the estates of the corporation ; but
whose son resigned his pretensions, for a consi-
deration in money. It was at Doncaster, that, in
153t>, the Duke of Norfolk found means, by per-
suasion and by treaty, to disperse the famous insur-
rection, known by the designation of the Pilgrimage
of (»raee. Not being a fortified town, it had small
share in the commotions of the 17th century, if we
except one incident, which involved the death of a
general officer. General Rainsborough had been
appointed, by Lord Fairfax, to the command of the
forces before Pontefract ; and had reached Don-
caster with two troops of horse, and 1200 foot ; when
Captain Paulden, a royalist officer, in the be-
sieged fortress, formed a scheme, no less daring
than that of surprising him, and carrying him off
7 G in
.378
YORKSHIRE.
in the midst of his troops. This he effected with I
the assistance of only twenty men, partly by stra-
tagem, partly by force ; with this difference, that
he killed the general, instead of making him prisoner:
he having made a desperate resistance, after he had
submitted ; and the republican soldiers pressing the
assailants too closely, after the discovery of their
design. — Among many other eminent men to whom
Doncaster can boast of having given birth, was pro-
bably Sir Martin Frobisher, who distinguished him-
self by his efforts, as well for the advancement of
science, as for the defence of his country. His
father resided some time at Finningley, a village
seven miles off; and appears to have been mayor of
Doncaster, in 1535 ; one of those places, therefore,
has undoubted pretensions to the merit of producing
this ornament of his age and country. More re-
centlyj Doncaster gave birth to the Rev. W. Bingley,
author of " Animal Biography," and several other
well known works. — The chief, if not the only, relic
of antiquity ever discovered at Doncaster, was a
Roman votive altar, of exquisite engraving and
workmanship, found in digging a cellar in St.
Sepulchre's Gate, in 1781. — The environs of Don-
caster are pleasing ; and, at several points, pic-
turesque. Among the respectable mansions, in the
vicinity, must be noticed Car House, built in 1GOJ,
by Hugh Childers, Esq. mayor of Doncaster, whose
grandson, Leonard Childers, bred the famous Bay
Childers, the fleetest horse ever known in England ;
Nether Hall, long the seat of the Copley family,
and now of Mr. Woolley, of York ; and Wheatley
Hall, a neat mansion near the Don, the seat of Sir
George Cooke, Bart. — Others more distant, but still
near enough to be included under the same head in
description, are Streethorpe, the seat of G. C. Yar-
borough, Esq. nearly four miles south-eastward ; and
Cautley Hall, three miles off, the seat of Mrs. Chil-
ders.— Shooter's Hill, the seat of Hilton, Esq.,
belongs to the corporation of Doneaster. Wad-
worth Hall, a large and noble structure, four miles
southward, ths seat of Mrs. Wordsworth, and Al-
yerley Hall, the seat of B. D. Cooke, Esq. in the
same direction, are distinguished for the beauty of
their situation. Balby and Warmsworth are neigh-
bouring villages, remarkable as the places where
the celebrated George Fox assembled his first meet-
ings.— Nearly two miles from Doncaster, westward,
is Cusworth Mall, the seat of William Wrighston,
Esq. an elegant mansion, delightfully situated, and
embellished ; and, three miles, south-westward, is
Sprotbrough Hall, the seat of Sir Joseph Copley,
Bart, which, with its finely disposed plantations,
and the ancient church, is well deserving of atten-
tion anil admiration. — Melton-on-the-IIill, pleasant-
ly seated on a hill, which commands the most diver-
sified prospects, belongs to R. F. Wilson, Esq.
Baxmbrougli Grange, the seat of Francis Fawkes,
Esq. lies about a mile from the village of Barra-
brough ; Hutton Pagnel, the mansion of St. Andrew
Wanle, Esq. is situated six miles nearly north-west-
ward from Doncaster ; and, a little farther west, ia
Frickley Hall, the seat of William Payne, Esq.-—
Bilham House, five miles from Doncaster, in a west-'
erly direction, the seat of William Hewitt, is dis-
tinguished by some of the finest prospects in York-
shire ; Brodsworth, is the seat of Thellussonj
Esq. ; and at Adwick-le-Street, three miles north-
ward, is the elegant mansion of George Wroughton,
Esq. Owston, further northward, is remarkable
for being the seat of Col. Cooke, and for its church,
in which are many interesting monuments ; and in
the vicinity are Burgwallis, the seat of the ancient
family of Ann ; Campsall, the residence of the late
Bacon Frank, Esq ; and Campsmount, the seat of
John Cooke, Esq.
DRAX.] — At Drax, a small village, eight miles
from Selby, south-eastward, was a priory of Black
Canons of St. Augustine, founded in the reign of
Henry 1. by William Paganel. Its situation was
such that the surrounding fields were often inundated
by the Ouse ; though the house itself was secured
by a (rifling elevation. No traces remain of its
existence.
EAI.AND.] — The village of Ealand, three miles
from Halifax, formerly had the privileged!' a weekly
market. The chapel at this place, considered the
oldest in the parish of Halifax, to which it belongs,
appears not to have been erected before 1310 ;
though the characters, JOJO, on the north porch,
would seem to assign an earlier date for its foun-
dation.
ELSI.ACK.] — At Elslack, in Broughton parish,
says Dodsworth, is a close, called Burwens, in which
there stood a castle, called Burwens. Of this no
remains exist. — At Embsay, two miles from Skip-
ton, a monastery of canons regular of St. Augus-
tine was founded, in 1120, by William de Meschinea
and his wife.
FERRY-BRIDGE.] — Ferry - bridge, a large and
handsome village, two miles from Pontefract, north-
eastward, and on the great north road, is often
mentioned in history, on account of its importance
as a pass over the Aire ; and the discovery of hones,
weapons, and other remains, confirms the relation
of events, said to have occurred here. At Byram,
in the vicinity, is the seat of Sir John Ramsden,
Bart.
FULNEOK.] — Fnlneck, in the parish of Calverley,
five miles S. W. from Leeds, is a celebrated settle-
ment of the Moravian Brethren, and considered by
them as their principal establishment in England :
being also the residence of their bishop. Part of
the buildings were erected in 1742; but the congre-
gation was not completely formed, and regularly
settled, till 1755 ; since which time a widows'
house, a school, and two family houses, have been
added to the original erection, consisting of a chapel
and two single houses. These are finely situated ;
and form a village unequalled for its appearances of
comfort an>l tranquillity. The chapel is a handsome
and light structure ; and both the vocal and instru-
mental
YORKSHIRE.
579
mental music are excellent. Many of the simple
inhabitants are employed in the woollen manufacture;
nnd the single women, particularly, are celebrated
for their skill in working muslin in tambour. In a
word, the appearance of Fulncck is such as indi-
cates the civil, industrious, and sober character of
its inhabitants ; and is a practical answer to the ob-
jections of those who condemn the principle of its
establishment.
• GAHGRAVE.] — 1 he town of Gargrave, four miles
from Skipton,is situated upon the Leeds and Liver-
pool canal, and is divided by the Aire, here so tor-
tuous, that it appears, says Camden, undetermined
whether to run to the sea, or back to its source.
The principal occupation of the inhabitants is the
cotton manufacture. At half a mile from the town
are the remains of a Roman villa, which have, how-
ever, been so much dispersed that nothing is distin-
guishable but the traces of the foundation, three
hundred feet long, and one hundred and eighty
wide.
Gir.GLEswicK.] — The pleasant village of Gig-
gleswick, near Settle, was once a market town ; and
the parish contains the following townships : Stack-
house, Settle, Lodge and Murbeck, the two Stain-
forths, Langcliffe with Winskill, and Ruthmell.
The church is handsome and uniform ; but. contains
nothing extraordinary, if we except an inscription
in memory of the parents of our great theologian,
Paley. Giggleswick is remarkable for an excel-
lent free grammar school, the endowments of which
are unusually rich : the master's salary being 500/. ;
the usher's, 200/. ; and that of the writing master,
150/. ; while each enjoys a good house, garden, and
every convenience for a comfortable dwelling. The
scenery at. Giggleswick is romantic in the extreme :
being formed by a deep valley and a bold rampart of
grey limestone, surmounted by the enormous masses
of Pennigent and Ingleborough. Eastward, is Cas-
tleberg, a conical rock, backed by a cluster of
rugged and protuberant craggs, and once undoubt-
edly crowned by a fortification. The summit once
formed the gnomon of a rude, but magnificent dial,
the shadow of which, passing over some grey stone
on its side, marked the progress of time to the in-
habitants below ; but the hour marks have long been
removed, and even their existence is now remem-
bered by few. In a neighbouring quarry, a few
years since, was discovered a large quantity of
Roman coins, chiefly of the two Constantincs, and
G rattan.
GisBuiiN.] — Situated ten miles and a half W. by
8. from Skipton, on the banks of the Ribble, is the
market-town of Gisburn, of small size, and distin-
guished by no trade or manufacture of importance.
The church, which is a plain erection of the reign
of Henry VII. with a tower, side aisles, and choir,
contains some painted glass, and several tombs of
the Listers. The manor of Rimington, in this
parish, is remarkable for a rich vein of lead ore,
which also yields a considerable portion of silver,
Gisburn Park, finely situated at the confluence of
the Ribble and Stockbeck, is the beautiful seat of
Lord Ribblesdalc, lord of the manor of Gisburn ;
and contains, among others, an excellent portrait,
by Lely, of Cromwell, in which all the warts and
other deformities of his face are pourtrayed with
disgusting minuteness. In the park is a herd of
wild cattle, indigenous to the county of Lancaster.
On the bank of the Ribble is a small square fort,
uninjured by time ; and a harrow, which, when
opened, was found to enclose a rude urn.
HALIFAX.] — Halifax, forty-two miles S. W. from
York, is situated on the western declivity of a gentle
eminence, surrounded by hills of considerable height.
The town, nearly three quarters of a mile in length,
and in breadth extremely irregular, is, upon the
whole, well built, partly of stone. The parish, said
to be more extensive than the whole county o! Rut-
land, is, in length, not less than seventeen miles, by
about eleven in breadth, and contains twenty-six
townships and hamlets : viz. Barkisland, Brig-
house, Elland, Erringdon, Fixby, Greetland, Hali-
fax, Heptonstal, Hipperhohne, Langfield, Linley,
Midgley, Northouram, Norland, Ovemlen, Ras-
trick, Rishworth, Stainland, Stansfield, Shell, Skir-
coat, Sowerby, Soyland, Sonth<mram, Warley, and
Wadsworth. — The origin of Halifax is not very
remote; as its name does not occur in Domesday,
nor any other record, till the early part ot the 13th
century. Notwithstanding the lateness of their oc-
currence, the time of its foundation, and the deriva-
tion of its name, are alike uncertain. It is only
known that Haliiax was one among the many towns
in Yorkshire, where were established manufactories
of wool, after the exportation of that article was
discouraged by the government. Yet the trade does
not seem to have been established here, with any
eft'ect, till between 1113 and 1540, when tlie number
of houses had increased from 13 to 5-20. After that
period, however, commerce and population experi-
enced a rapid augmentation : for Camden, who
visited the parish in 1574, mentions it as containing
12,000 men ; and observes, that the parishioners
were " wont to say, they could reckon more men
in their parish than any (other) kind of animal
whatever." This was probably occasioned by the
nature of the site, favourable to manufactures; as
it abounds in coal ; and unfriendly to cultivation,
by reason of its barren and unprofitable character.
During the latter part of the last, and the beginning
of the present, century, the population has increased
rapidly, in consequence of the flourishing slate of
the trade; which has extended itself into the most
remote parts of the parish. The shalloon trade was
introduced into Halifax at the beginning of the last
century ; and in 1724, frame- work-knitting was
commenced there ; but for some time the staple ma-
nufacture has consisted of tammies, shalloons, and
serges. These are all made from combing wool ;
and are brought in an unfinished state to the public
hall, where the merchants attend every Saturday to
purchase.
580
YORKSHIRE.
purchase. Large quantities of kerseys, half-thicks,
bookings, and baize, are made at Sowerby, and in
the neighbourhood. From this source the whole of
the British navy is cloathed, and a considerable trade
with Holland and America is derived. About thirty
years since, some persons of enterprise introduced
the fabric of cloth and coatings, which is at present
by far the most flourishing branch of commerce at
Halifax. Amongst the most important of the advan-
tages enjoyed by Halifax is the facility of deporting
its produce by the Calder and the Rochdale Canal,
from Sowerby Bridge. — The church is a large
Gothic edifice, of respectable appearance, generally
supposed to have been built in the reign of Henry I.
by the Earl of Warren. The chancel, however, and
indeed many other parts, are evidently of more re-
cent date ; especially the steeple, which was finished
about 1470. The whole length is 192 feet ; and the
breadth about 60 within the walls ; while the ele-
vation of the steeple is not less than 117 feet.
Within, are two chapels, one of which, called
Rokeby's, was erected in pursuance of the will of
Dr. W. Rokeby, Archbishop of 'Dublin, interred
here in 1521 ; arid the other by R. Holdsvvorth, vicar
of the parish, in 1554, "at his own proper expense."
Under the chancel, also, are some large rooms, one
of which is used as a library. — The Piece, or Manu-
facturers' Hall, erected a few years since, at an
expence of 12,000/. which was defrayed by the
manufacturers, is an elegant and convenient building
in form a quadrangle, containing three hundred and
15 distinct rooms for the lodgement of goods, which
are exposed to sale two hours in each week : from
10 to 12 on the market day. The exterior wall is
a blank ; consequently the rooms are entered from
the inner area, which is surrounded by a corridor
or piazza. — A principal feature in the history of
Halifax is the Gibbet Law, thus described by Bent-
ley : " The inhabitants within the forest of Hard-
wick had a custom, from time immemorial, that if
a felon were taken within their liberty with goods
stolen out of, or within the liberty of the said
forest, either hand-habend, back^bcrand, or con-
fessand, any commodity of the value of thirteen -
pence half- penny, he should, after three markets or
meeting days, within the town of Halifax, next after
such, his apprehension, and being condemned, be
taken to the gibbet, and have his head cut off" from
his body-" It is to be observed, however, that the
accused was first duly tried by a jury of the most
wealthy and intelligent persons in the liberty, called j
, __ I
* He was born at Haughend, in 1630, am! educated in the
principles of his parents, who were Calvinists ; ihese, however,
IK- abandoned : having preached a sermon at Sowerby chapel,
when Dean of Canterbury, professedly in opposition to his
former tenets.
f He was born in 1549, at Bradley, and was educated at
Morton College, Oxford, where he had the reputation of a
man, deeply skilled in the Greek language, and in the mathe-
matics, hi 1578, he set out on his travels, and afterwards
became Greek tutor to Queen Elizabeth. He had a principal
share in the version of the Bible, now used; he also translated
frith-burghers ; and that the institution partook more
of the simple forms of equity in the infancy of
society, than of the summary methods practised in
the days of feudal tyranny. This custom, or law,
has been subject to many attempts at explanation ;
the best appears to be, that it was capable ot con-
siderable modifications, and cannot be very accu-
rately defined. The mode of execution was curious :
when the condemned was brought to the gibbet,
which stood at a short distance from the town, he
was attended by the bailiff, the person who had pro-
nounced the sentence, and the attending clergyman,
who together ascended the scaffold. The fourth
psalm was then played on the bag-pipes ; the musi-
cian solemnly parading round the scaffold. After
which the minister joined the. prisoner in prayer,
until he received the fatal stroke. The execution
was performed by means of an instrument, resem-
bling the guillotine. It consisted of two upright
posts, fifteen feet high, joined at the top by a cross
beam like a gallows. Within these, was a square
block of wood, four feet and a half long, which
moved up and down by means of grooves made in
the uprights for the purpose. To the lower side of
this sliding block, was fastened an iron ax of the
weight of 7 Ibs. 12 oz. which, being drawn up by a
cord and pulley, and secured by a pin, was kept
suspended till the moment of execution ; when, bv
pulling out the pin, or cutting the cord, it was suf-
fered to fall, and the criminal's head was instantly
severed from his body. In the century preceding
the last execution, which took place on April 30,
1650, the register books exhibit a list of forty-nine
persons beheaded in this manner. — Among the cele-
brated persons who were either born, or have re-
sided, at Halifax, was Dr. Tillotson,* Archbishop
of .Canterbury ; several of the illustrious family of
Saville, among whom was distinguished Sir Henry
Saville,f so celebrated for his attainments in clas-
sical learning, and David Hartley, J a celebrated
physician, born at lllingworth. The celebrated
Daniel De Foe, also, though not a native of Hali-
fax, resided there some time, when compelled to
abscond from his usual dwelling on account of his
political writings ; and here, it is said, he composed
his famous romance of Robinson Crusoe, his book
De Jure Di vino, and other of his celebrated produc-
tions. Of the first, it is generally known, that it
was suggested by the adventures of Selkirk, whose
simple narrative was appropriated by De Foe, on
being tendered to him for revision.
great part of Tacilus ; wrote a view of Roman warfare ; mark1 a
collection of the writers on English history, from Bede to In.
gulphus; and published a fine edition of the works ol Chry-
sostom, in Greek. He died in 1622.
{ He is known, chiefly, for the zeal which he displayed for
the success of Mr?. Stephens's Stone-Solvent; in recommenda-
tion of which he published a collection of cases, Sec. ; his most
considerable literary production; however, is a metaphysical
work, intituled " Observations on Man, his Frame, his Duties,
and his Expectations": a scries of learned and ingenious inves-
tigation.
HARKWOOD.
YORKSHIRE.
581
HA RE WOOD.] — Harewood-House, the seat of Lord
Ilarewootl, situated six miles from Leeds, north-
ward, is a noble mansion of stone, adorned with
all the richness of Corinthian architecture. Its
length is nearly 250 feet, its breadth 90 ; the apart-
ments are spacious and elegant ; some of them
richly painted by Zucci and others ; and the whole
displays a combination of elegance with convenience,
such as is seldom equalled, never surpassed. The
grounds were laid out by Brown — a sufficient eulogy
on a place, where nature has exerted herself to form
a scene of beauty. — At a short distance is the
church, an ancient and venerable structure, enclosed
by a thick grove of trees. The choir contains six
altar tombs of white marble, with fine whole length
effigies of ancient owners of the manor ; among
which the most remarkable is that of Sir William
Gascoigne, the virtuous judge, whose spirited con-
duct in support of the magistratial dignity has pur-
chased for him undying fame. — The ancient castle
of Harewood, supposed to have been built by Sir
W. Aldburgh^ of Aldburgh, in Richmondshire, is
situated on the brow of a lolly eminence which over-
looks the Wharf. From its remains, which consist
of the grand portal, high enough to admit a horse-
man ; two large rooms on the ground floor, con-
taining a beautiful arch and a tomb ; ami an arched
door-way, in the partition wall ; it is impossible to
form a probable idea of its ancient form ; but when
entire, it must have been of considerable magni-
tude ; for there is now an acre of ground, around
the erect part of the building, covered with half-
buried walls and fragments of ruins. — Its ancient
possessors were among the most considerable per-
sonages in the kingdom ; the Gascoignes of Gaw-
thorpe, and the ancestors of Thomas Went worth,
Earl of Strafford ; whose son sold the estate during
the Protectorate of Cromwell. It is now the pro-
perty of Edward, Lord Harewood.
HARROWGATE.] — Harrowgate, well known for its
medicinal waters, which attract thither the infirm
and the dissipated, is a large village in Knares-
brough forest, three miles from the town of Knares-
brough. It is divided into Eiighand Low Harrow-
gate : the former, where are the chalybeate springs,
being situated on a rock which commands a most ex-
tensive view, and the latter, which possesses <he sul-
phureous waters, occupying a lower situation. The
air, here, is justly praised for its salubrity. The
Tewet water, or sweet Spa, a vitriolic spring, found
in 1620, is much used as a remedy for gravel.
The sulphur spring, used in dropsical, scorbutical,
and gouty cases, is perfectly clear, and extremely
salt ; but has the taste and smell of rotten eggs and
sulphur. The old Spa, discovered in 1571, is
covered with a dome, erected, in 1786, by Lord
Loughborough, who also formed an agreeable walk,
two miles in length. In 1783, a new spring was
discovered, in the garden of the Crescent, contain-
ing both chalybeate and sulphureous ingredients,
and peculiarly adapted to the cure of chronic com-
VOL. iv. — no. 182.
plaints. — During the last half-century, the assem-
blage of visitor has been so ijreat, that eight spacious
inns, and a number of private lodging-nouses, are
appropriated exclusively to their use. At the inns,
public balls are appointed twice each week ; and
almost every kind of fashionable amusement is to
be found in the place.
HATFIELD.] — Three miles from Thome, westward,
is the large and handsome village of Hatfield, famous
in history for the battle fought there, in 633, by
Edwin, King of Northumberland, agninst the Welsh
king, Cadwallo, and Penda, of Mercia, in which
the former was defeated and slain. Among several
handsome houses, Hatfield contains the mansion of
William Jessop, Esq. The church is large and
handsome, but not older than the reign of Henry III.
The extensive level, called Hatfield Chace, contain-
ing 180,000 acres, once half covered with water,
was drained and cultivated by Cornelius Vermui-
den, a Dutchman, who expended 400,000/. in the
work, and was afterwards ruined by unjust litigation
for the possession of what he had thus made valua-
able. — At three miles distant is Liiulholm, a single
farm-house, which occupies the centreof a small
sandy tract, surrounded by an extensive and deep
morass. The soil of this island is very fertile, and
yields a spring of fine water. It is said to have
been, formerly, the solitary abode of an anchorite,
whose cell was yet standing in 1747, with an altar
of hewn stone, and his tomb, covered with a large
slab of free-stone ; which, on being removed, dis-
covered part of a skeleton of unusual size, a peck
of hemp-seed, and a piece of beaten copper. la
almost every part of Hatfield Chase, but, especi-
ally in this morass, many large trees are disinterred,
which discover no marks of caducity. Some of
them even bear signs of the operation of fire, and
others of the tools by which they were cut down.
HUDDERSFIELD.] — The large and populous town
of,.Huddersfiehl, 45 miles from York, south-west-
ward, is one of the five places in the West Riding
distinguished for the extent to which they have car-
ried the' woollen manufacture. Not the inhabitants
of the town only, but those of the whole parish,
which is unusually extensive, are employed in the
fabrication of narrow, plain, fine, and coarse cloths ;
broad cloth, serges, kerseymeres, friezes, and all
other kinds of woollen and worsted goods. The
produce is exposed for sale, in a large circular
building, two stories high ; where the merchants
and, wool-staples assembly on Tuesday, before
noon. This was built by Sir John Ramsden, Bart.
who is proprietor of nearly the whole of the town,
ami patron of the living. The church is an ancient
and plain building, of considerable size, but without
any object worthy of particular notice. 1 ladders -
field enjoys the inestimable advantage of a navi-
gable canal, by which it communicates, through the
Calder navigation, with every part of the kingdom ;
whilst a cut, by Marsden to the Ashton and Old-
ham, opens a direct channel with Manchester.
7 H
582
YORKSHIRE.
HEADLEY.] — AtTTcadley, a village (wo miles from
"Bramham, south-eastward, a priory of Benedictine
monks was founded, temp. Hen. 1. by Hippol. Bram,
:as a cell to the abbey of York. At Thorp-Arch,
a small village on the Wharf, are sulphureous and
chalybeate waters, discovered about a century ago,
and now much used in rheumatic and scorbutic
•cases.
HEATH.] — At two miles from Wakefield, is Heath,
a village, situated on a hill, southward from the
Caliler, and generally acknowledged to be one of
the most beautiful in the kingdom. Its most strik-
ing features are the green, round which its elegant
atone buildings are ranged ; and the hanging woods
and gardens which incline towards the river.
HELAGH.] — Helagh, a hamlet in Swaledale, three
miles northward from Tadcaster, was formerly a
manor town, and the residence of John of Gaunt,
Duke of Lancaster, who inhabited a house, the
vestiges of which are still visible in a field called the
Hall-garth. The Roman works, particularly in-
trenchments, are numerous in this place ; and pieces
of armour have been discovered, which, from their
form, are evidently of that people. About 1218,
a priory of regular canons, was founded, and a
church was built here, by Jordan de St. Maria, and
his wife's father ; the revenues of which were granted,
at the Dissolution, to one Gage.
ILKLEY.] — The small but pleasant village of Ilk-
ley, six miles westward from Otley, is supposed,
with some shew of reason, to have been the Olicana,
of the Romans. It is much frequented for the pur-
pose of bathing in a spring which issues from the
side of a high hill ; ana, with little or no medicinal
quality, but extreme coldness, has been found very
useful in relaxed and scrofulous cases.
INSLETON.] — Ingleton, a large Tillage, little more
than ten miles north-westward from Settle, on the
borders of Lancashire, is inhabited chiefly by colliers
and manufacturers of cotton yarn. It is remarka-
ble, however, for the many objects of wonder which
nature has lavishly scattered around : Tborn-ton-
Thorn-ton-force, Yordas' Cave, Weather-
scar,
cote-cave, and the lefty mountains of Ingleborough,
Pennigent, and Wharnside. — The Scar is a tre-
mendous cliff, one hundred yards in height, partly
•wooded, and separated from another precipice by
a frightful chasm, at the bottom of which a small
torrent rushes furiously along, forming numerous
cascades, of which one, called the Force, is nearly
thirty yards in height. The tops and sides of the
rock above this cascade, form an inimitable picture;
being beautifully fringed with ivy, and a variety of
other shrubs. — Yordas' Cave, a natural cavern of
the mountain called Greg-roof, has a rudely arched
entrance ; is about 50 yards in length, 13 wide, and
15 high ; and contains several recesses, with a great
variety of petrifactions. — Weather-cote-cave, situ-
ated in a low field, is the more remarkable, because
unexpected. Its top is almost level with the sur-
face ; and its margin is surrounded by foliage, which
produces an admirable effect. It is divided by a
grotesque arch ; and, at its extremity, is a subter-
raneous passage, where is seen, issuing froro a
large aperture in the rock, an immense cataract,
which falls in one sheet above twenty perpendicular
yards ; with a noise that takes away the sense of
hearing. The water thus buried, disappears among
the rocks and pebbles, and continues its secret
course, for more than a mile, by the subterraneous
passage ; while the whole cave is filled with the
spray. — Raven Ree, is a rocky promontory, forty
yards high, almost covered with ivy, yew, and
evergreen shrubs. — Hurtlepot, four miles distant,
is a round hole about forty feet deep, with a pool
of black water at the bottom, in which are found
the finest black trout ; Ginglepot, another bason
twenty yards deep, is filled with water, which, in
rainy seasons, swells to a flood, and issues in a
vast torrent. — But the most sublime features of this
romantic district are the mountains. Ingleborough
is, according to Mr. Jeffreys, exactly one mile above
the level of the sea ; its base is a mass of limestone ;
but towards the summit, the rock is for the most
part, a sandy grit. The east and west sides are
extremely steep : the latter bending in the form of
a crescent, with a deep morass at the bottom. On
this side also a boggy moor separates it from the
village of Autswick. The top is level, to the ex-
tent of half a mile. — Pennigent, four aides south
eastward from Ingleborough, is a steep and tower-
ing mountain, of which the perpendicular height hay
been calculated at 1740 yards. At its base, two
frightful orifices, called llulpit, and Huntpit, are
the passages of two subterraneous brooks, which,
continuing their secret course above a mile, emerge,
one at Dowgill-scar, the other at Bransil Head.—
Wharn-side, called by some the highest mountain
in South Britain, is situated in a vast amphitheatre
of other hills, six miles northward from Inglebo-
rough. Its perpendicular height is stated at 5340
feet, or one mile and twenty yards above the level
of the sea. Near the summit are several pools,
called tarns, two of which are not less than one
hundred and eighty yards in length and breadth.
The summit of this, like those of the other princi-
pal mountains in the district, is not unfrequently
enveloped in clouds, which it intercepts in their
eastward passage from the Irish sea.
KEIGHLET.] — A considerable market-town, forty-
six miles W. by S. from York, is Keighley, situated
within three or four hundred yards of the bank of
the Aire, over which there is a stone bridge. The
town is plainly built, of stone ; and the inhabitants
are occupied in manufactures of cotton, linen, and
worsted. The church is large, handsome, and in
good preservation ; and contains a curiosity in anti-
quities : two gravestones, on one of which is a cross
and sword, with two escutcheons, and the inscrip-
tion " Gilbertus Kegldey de Otlay, et Margaria
uxor, 1023 :" which date refers to a period as re-
mote as the reign of Canute the Great. A skirmish
took
YORKSHIRE.
took place here in 1645, in which one hundred pri-
soners, with their horses and other booty, were taken
by a detachment from Skipton, under the orders of
Captain Hughes.
KCTTLEWBLL.] — Kettlcwell, 13 miles N. E. from
Settle, is little better than a village ; the market
being almost discontinued, and the population con-
siderably reduced. Its situation, on a hill, exposed
it, in 1680, to destruction by a flood, which de-
scended with such violence that several houses were
totally destroyed, and others so filled with sand as
to be uninhabitable.
KILDVTICK.] — At Kildwick, four miles from Skip-
ton, w»s formerly a seat of the Currer family. The
church contains considerable remains of stained
glass, and the mailed effigies of Sir Robert de
Steeton, in the kind of stone used in the erection of
York cathedral. Kildwick bridge was built in the
reign of Edward II. by the canons of Bolton. Here
is an aqueduct of the Leeds canal.
KIRKSTALL.] — At Kirkstall, a small Tillage upon
the Aire, about three miles from Leeds, are the
interesting ruins of Kirkstall Abbey ; which was
founded in 1152 by Henry De Lacy, and endowed
with revenues which, augmented by after-donations,
amounted, at the Dissolution, to 512/. 13<. 1<{. The
site, occupied by this ruin, is 450 feet in length by
a breadth of 340. The order of its architecture is
the pointed ; in which the transitions from the early
Norman style is distinctly marked. The door-ways
and windows, except a few which bear marks of
alteration from their original form, are uniformly
Norman ; but the pillars of the choir, tower, and
transept, have arches, slightly pointed, and clustered
columns. The arches, which are clumsily rounded
off, the corbel ornaments, and the capitals, are Nor-
man ; but the last vary from each other, marking the
architectural versatility of the age. Among the
mouldings of the arches, which are mostly plain,
are discoverable some traces of the embattled fret,
and the chevron, or zig-zag ; and, at the termination
of one of the corbels, is a twisted ornament, which
appears to be non-descript. The church, which
was cruciform, had a lofty tower, which fell down
in 1779 ; but the chapter-house, which received
considerable repairs, immediately before the Disso-
lution, remains nearly entire. The refectory was
vaulted : the roof being supported by cylindrical
columns, each composed of a single stone. A lux-
uriant mass of ivy, which insidiously embraces the
ruin, adds greatly to the picturesque effect of its
appearance. Near the foundation, at different times,
Lave been found bricks, of which some were curi-
ously painted, and of a larger size than those now
in general use. An altar-piece is also said to be
preserved, on which was painted the history of
Joseph of Arimathea, entombing the body of our
Saviour. To this piece were attached eight small
alabaster statues, and an iron box, in which were
preserved the important papers of the society.
KNAHESBHOUGH.]— The ancient town of Knares-
hrough, I7| mttes W. by N. from York, is supposed
to have derived that appellation from its situation
on an eminence : knares signifying, in the Gothic
tongue, a hard knot, or a rocky mountain. Below
this pleasant site flows the river Nid, through *
romantic glen, formed by precipitous and rugged
rocks. Yet this bold and varied scenery, though
wild, is not devoid of the features which fertility
and cultivation alone ean bestow. Its natural
beauties are agreeably relieved by country seats, and
productive farms. The town is large, well-built,
and handsome ; and the inhabitants evince a spirit
of industry in the manufacture of cotton and linen
goods. It is also a borough, and returns two repre-
sentatives to Parliament. Hargrave, the historian
of Knaresbrough, supposes that it was a fortified
post of the Romans. At the Conquest, it belonged
to the Crown ; and was granted to Serlo de Burgh,
who founded the castle. That venerable pile may be
traced through the possession of many individuals,
whose names stand conspicuous in the page of the
historian. The De Burghs were succeeded by the
Stutevilles ; and they, by the De Burghs, Earls of
Kent, who happening to take the weakest side at the
battle of Evesham, forfeited Knaresbrough to the
crown. Edward II. gave it to his beloved Gave-
ston ; and Edward III. to his son, John of Gaunt.
It became one of the prisons of Richard II. In
1616, James I. gave it to his son, by whom it was
garrisoned in the troubles of his unhappy reign.
I u 1644, Lord Fairfax took the town by assault ;
but the castle held out several weeks, and at length
obtained honourable terms. In 1648, its destruction
was decreed by the Parliament ; and it has since
been untenable as a post in war. The remains are
scanty, but superlatively interesting. The area of
its site is nearly two acres and a half; and it was
flanked by eleven towers. Of these, a part only of
the principal tower remains : consisting of three
stories above the keep or dungeon, which is a hor-
rid prison, twenty-three feet long by twenty in
breadth, of hewn stone, arched, supported by one
round pillar, a yard in diameter, and lighted by a
narrow aperture, so guarded as to render escape
impossible. On the ground-floor were the guard-
room, vaulted and supported by two massive pillars,
which diverged and covered thereof; the old prison,
for debtors ; and the repository of the ancient court-
records. The second story contained the anti-
chamber, and the state-room, commonly called the
king's chamber r each about sixteen feet square ;
and the latter, lighted by a magnificent window,
fifteen feet high and ten broad. This apartment
was so defended by narrow zigzag passages, a
strong guard-room, and two port-cullisses, that it
was totally inaccessible to an enemy. The third
story, of the same dimensions as the others, was
crowned by a parapet and battlements. — The parish
church is neither spacious nor handsome ; but it
contains several elegant monuments, chiefly of the
Slingsby family. — The environs of Knaresbrough
are
584
YORKSHIRE.
are formed to impress the mind, and to surprise the
most lively imagination. A" winding and transparent
river ; wild, ragged rocks ; fertility, luxuriant to
rankness ; the mouldering relics of human labour,
and the permanent wonders of nature, are here
assembled in unbounded profusion. On the south-
western bank of the Nid, is a dropping and petri-
fying well, which, after running about twenty yards
towards the river, spreads itself over the top of a
rock, whence it trickles in above thirty channels.
This rock, the dimensions of which are from thirty
to forty feet every way, is itself a curiosity ; having
been separated from the main bank, about a century
ago, by a rent, over which the water is conveyed by
an aqueduct ; and being covered with flowers and
shrubs. — The rocks on the other side, not less than
a hundred feet in height, having been excavated,
have become the habitations of men ; the most re-
markable of which is called the Rock-house : a large
cavern, supposed to have been formerly the retreat
of banditti who infested the forest, but now occupied
by an industrious weaver and his family, who have
formed a little garden on the declivity. — Near the
Biimmit of these heights, is an ancient monument
of individual and secluded piety, called St. Robert's
chapel, cut out of the living rock. It is not more
than nine or ten feet square, by seven or eight in
height ; but its decorations, the altar, three heads
symbolic of the Trinity, the figure of a warrior which
defends the entrance, and the clustering ivy, give,
even to its diminutiveness, an impressive character.
St. Robert, the reputed founder of this cell was a
pious recluse, whom tradition still celebrates as a
prodigy of holiness and learning. — Above the chapel
is a hermitage, formed of petrifactions ; and, still
higher, is an excavation like a fort. This place,
called Fort Montague, with its embattled summit,
its pointed cannon, and a waving flag, is the work
of a poor weaver and his son, who, (luring sixteen
years, devoted every leisure hour to the undertak-
ing : forming the cliff into terraces, now rich with
flowers and shrubs ; and constructing arbours, seats,
a green-house, and an excellent tea-room. The
•view from this spot is inconceivably beautiful. —
On the banks of the Nid, at the distance of half a
mile, lower, was the priory : an institution of friars
of the Holy Trinity, for the redemption of cap-
tives, founded by Richard Plantagenet, brother of
Henry HI. It is now the property of the Slingsbys,
hut the buildings are demolished, and lie scattered
and mouldering. — St. Robert's Cave was the scene
of a murder, perpetrated by Eugene Aram, the
circumstances of which, the character and history
of the criminal, and the ingenious defence he made
on his trial, have obtained an unusual degree of
publicity. — Knaresbrough forest, a large tract ex-
tending in length twenty, by a breadth of eight
miles, comprised above 30,000 acres, on which the
inhabitants of Knaresbrough, and other townships,
hud exercised a right of common and turbary till
1775, when it was inclosed, aud soon became, by
improved methods of cultivation, of more than treble
its former value. — In the annals of biography, there
exist few names of persons more distinguished than
John Metcalfe : a sort of prodigy, who, having lost
his sight at four years of age, became an excellent
musician, and a town carrier ; was taken prisoner
at the battle of Falkirk ; acted as a guide through
the mazes of the forest ; often joined with eager
activity in the chase ; andj to crown all, employed
himself, during the last forty years of his life, in
projecting and contracting for, the making of high
roads, the building of bridges, and other public
works, to which it was least probable that a blind
man should turn his attention. He died in 1810,
aged 94. — The vicinity of Knaresbrough abounds
with seats as remarkable for their elegance as for
the beauty of their situation. Among these is
Conyngham House, seated on a small eminence,
near the Nid, purchased from the Coghill family in
1796, by the Countess of Conyngham. Scriven
Hall, one mile from Knaresbrough, westward, is the
seat of Sir T. T. Slingsby, Bart. Plumpton, three
miles southward, was, during many centuries, the
seat of the ancient family of that name, the last of
whom died at Paris, in 1749, unmarried and intes-
tate. It is now remarkable chiefly for a beautiful
and romantic garden, or pleasure-ground, formed
in the area of a stone quarry, and of considerable
extent : — The Hall, at Ribstone, four miles south-
eastward from Rnaresbrough, is the seat of Sir
Henry Goodricke, Bart, elegantly furnished, adorned
with some valuable pictures, and commanding an
extensive and beautiful prospect. In the chapel are
some tombs of the Goodricke family, and near it a
curious monument of a Roman standard-bearer,
discovered at York, in 1688. From 1224, Ribstone
was possessed by the Knights Templars, until the
dissolution of their order. It is remarkable as the
place where was first cultivated the delicious apple
called the Ribstone Pippin : now so generally pre-
ferred.— Goldesburgh Hall, the seat of J. Starkey,
Esq. little more than two miles from Knaresbrough
south-eastward, is a large and strong edifice, built
by the Huttons, two centuries ago. — Allerton
Mauleverer, the seat of Lord Stourton, is situated
four miles from Knaresbrough north-eastward. The
house, built by His Royal Highness the Duke ol
York, is elegant, environed by the most deliciout
scenery, and so elevated as to command extensive
views of the surrounding country. At this place,
•was formerly a priory of Benedictines ; and tlu
manor was long the property of the Mauleveress.—
Copgrove, the seat of Henry Duncombe, Esq.
four miles and a half northward from Knaresbrough
is an elegant mansion, well adapted to domestic
convenience, and decorated with some truly valu
able sculptures and paintings.
LKEDS.] — The opulent and commercial town o
Leeds, 25 miles S. W. from York, and 191| N. N
W. from London, is situated on the north bank o
the Aire. Its site is a gentle eminence, and a dee]
YORKSHIRE.
58,5
ralley, watered by an inconsiderable rivulet. The
houses, for the greater part of brick, may, upon the
whole, be pronounced well-built; but the several
quarters of the town present, in this particular, a
great diversity of appearance. In the eastern part,
where are the dying-houses, and the different manu-
factories, and on the southern side, along the banks
of the Aire, the houses are mean, and the streets,
or rather lanes, are dirty, crooked, and disagreea-
ble. It is in tlie middle, and on the west side, of
the town, that are found several fine streets, and
numerous elegant buildings. Leeds extends to a
length of a mile and a half, by a mean breadth of
about half a mile; and it is divided into nearly
equal parts, by Briggate, and the market-place,
the former of which is the principal street, above
thirty yards broad ; and the latter, called Cross-
parish, is also a spacious street, in which is a large
market-cross. But a spacious square, at the west-
ern extremity of the town, displays the greatest
degree of elegance. This, having been formed at
different periods, has no general name ; three of its
sides are called the East and South Parade, and
Park Row ; the fourth is occupied by the Mixed
Cloth Hall, and the General Infirmary. The centre
of this, like that of Park Square, another assem-
blage of fine buildings, is laid out in gardens, like
the squares of the metropolis. On the south side
of Park Square, is St. Paul's, a modern structure
of stone ; behind which, is Park Place, a row of
very handsome houses, which front the south : com-
manding a fine view of the Aire and the neighbour-
ing hills. The public buildings of Leeds, which,
compared with the private habitations, are unworthy
of the epithet magnificent, are the following : the
five churches of St. Peter, St. John, St. James,
Trinity, and St. Paul ; the General Infirmary, and
several other institutions of the same class ; the
public schools ; the .Mixed Cloth Hal), and the
White Cloth Hall, with a small hall in Albion
Street, for the use of those clothiers who, not hav-
ing served a regular apprenticeship, cannot be ad-
mitted into the other halls. St. Peter's church, a
spacious and plain but venerable pile, the date of
which is unknown, is 165 feet in length, built in
the form of a cross ; with a lofty tower, which,
rising from the centre, is supported by four massive
pillars and arches. The interior arrangement is
excellent ; and is rendered complete by a peal of
ten bells, a fine toned organ, and an altar-piece,
by Parmentier. The ceiling of the nave exhibits
the Ascension, in fresco, by the same artist ; and in
various parts are sepulchral monuments, several of
which claim the deepest interest. Three inscriptions
commemorate three brothers, sons of John Pate
Neville, Esq. of Bads worth, who were all carried
oil', by the iron hand of war, in little more than
five years, in the flower of their youth, distinguished
by their generous qualities, as by their accomplish-
ments. Another tablet is a tribute to the merit of
a young officer, Lieutenant Predhain, who, " the
VOL. iv. — NO. 183.
only son of his mother," fell at the side of Aber-
crombie, in /Egypt. — St. John's church, founded by
J. Harrison, Esq. an inhabitant of Leeds, in 1684,
was endowed by him with 90/. per annum ; and it
contains his tomb and portrait. St. James's, en oc-
tangular stone edifice, was formerly occupied 'by
the preachers of the Countess of Huntingdon ; but
it has since been consecrated. Trinity, erected in
1721, is a handsome stone edifice, with a tower and
a small spire. St. Paul's, also an elegant building
of stone, was erected by the Rev. 31 lies Atkinson,
is neatly finished, and has a small organ. — There
are, also, in Leeds, ten dissenting conventicles, and
a Catholic chapel. — The General Infirmary, founded
in 1766, by voluntary subscription, is a handsome
brick edifice, one hundred and fifty feet long, and
thirty eight wide. To this place, every person is
admissible on the recommendation of a subscriber;
and in cases of sudden accident, even no recommen-
dation is required. .Such, also, are the excellence of
the accommodations ; and the attention to the patient,
that, said Howard, " many are here cured of com-
pound fractures, who would lose their limbs in the
unventilated and offensive wards of some hospitals."
Another hospital, called a House of Recovery, was
founded by subscription, in 1802, for the reception
of persons afflicted with infectious fevers. Twenty
houses, founded and endowed by John Harrison,
Esq. for forty poor women, are called the Old
Alms-houses ; to which twelve more have recently
been added, by Arthur Aikin, Esq. one of the
aldermen. The New Alms-houses, ten in number,
were founded by Mrs. Potter, for tradesmen's wi-
dows, who receive each ten pounds yearly. A work-
house, built by R. Sykes, Esq. in 1636, has since
that period been considerably enlarged, and is> now
conducted under good regulations. — John Harrison,
Esq. the universal benefactor of Leeds, founded an
excellent free-school, to which, in 1692, a new
apartment was added, and a charity -school, wiiere
more than one hundred and twenty children of both
sexes are clothed and educated. — The Cloth Flails
are among the most remarkable public buildings
and institutions of Leeds. That for Mixed Cloth,
erected in 1758, is a quadrangular edifice, round
an open area, and is about 127{ yards in length, by
66 in breadth. It is divided into six covered streets,
in each of which are two rows of stands. These
stands, 1800 in number, are the freehold property
of different manufacturers, who have served a regu-
lar apprenticeship to the making of coloured cloth ;
and they are each worth from eight to fifteen pounds.
The Exchange, which joins the Hall, is a beautiful
building of octangular form. The White Cloth,
erected in 1775, is of the same form as the other,
but smaller, and contains no more than five covered
streets, in which are 1210 stands, each worth from
three pounds to eight guineas. The cloth market,
which, at the Mixed Cloth Hall, lasts no longer
than one hour and a quarter, is holden in both halls,
on Tuesdays and Saturdays. — The markets for
7 I vegetables,
iSG
YORKSHIRE.
vegetables, flesh, fish, fruit, and other provisions,
•are held on various days, and as well as the corn-
markets, are abundantly supplied. The town is
furnished with good soft water from the Aire, by
water- works, near the bridge ; ami sources of
amusement arc found hi several assembly-rooms,
a tolerable theatre, and a circulating library. —
Other public buildings are, the Moot Hall, before
which is a fine statue of Queen Anne ; the Prison ;
and the Rotation Office, so called from the rotatory
attendance of the members of the corporation, who
are magistrates. This body, first instituted by
Charles I., consists of a mayor, twelve aldermen,
and twenty -four common council-men ; who fill up
the vacancies in their body. — The chief manufacture
of the vicinity, for few manufacturers live in the
town, is cloth, the great bulk of which is of the
coarser kind, though the fabric of superfine has of
late considerably increased ; as has that of swans-
downs, toileuets, kerseymeres, and other fancy arti-
cles. Several manufactories of sacking, canvas,
and thread, have been established, and are conducted
to some extent. Here are also carpet manufactories,
and a number of cotton mills, most of which are
•wrought by means of steam engines. In the neigh-
bourhood are likewise a considerable manufactory
of the finer sorts of earthenware, and several foun-
deries. On the banks of the Aire, and on the streams
which empty themselves into that river, are nume-
rous mills for grinding corn, dyers'-wood, rape-
seed, &c. as well as for the fulling of cloth, and for
the carding and spinning of wool. The linen manu-
facture has also, within a few years, been introduced
into Leeds, upon an extensive scale, and with con-
siderable success. — -As the clothing business is
divided into two branches — the manufacture of cloth
from dyed wool, and that from wool, in its native
state, so the two processes are conducted in dif-
ferent districts : the formw, at Morley, Gildersome,
Ad walton, Duglington, Tarsley, Calverly, Eccle-
shall, Idle, Baildon, Yeadon, Gursley, Rawdon, and
Horsforth ; inf or bordering upon, the vale of Aire ;
and at Batley, Dewsbury, Otzet, Horbury, and
Kirk-liurtou, West of Wakefield, in, or near, the
•vale of Calder : the latter, at Alverthorpe, Osset,
Kirk-Heaton, Dewsbury, Batley, Bristali, Hopton,
Mirfield, Hurtshead, Cleck Heaton, Little Town,
Bowling, and Shipley : a district, forming an oblique
belt across the hills which separate the vule of Cal-
der from the vale of Aire, beginning near Wake-
field, and terminating at Shipley. The cloths are
sold in the halls, rough as they come from the fulling
mills, and are finished by the merchants. The dis-
persed state of the manufacturers, in villages and
single houses, over the whole face of the country,
i» highly favourable, to their morals and happiness.
These are generally men who possess small capitals ;
and add a farm to their other occupation. The ad-
vantages enjoyed by Leeds as a trading town, are
assisted by the navigable rivers Aire and Calder,
and by the Leeds and Liverpool canal. By the
former, communication is opened to Leeds with
York and Hull ; by the latter, which was begun in
1770, Leeds enjoys an easy and profitable commerce
with Liverpool and the intermediate country,
through an extent of 109 miles. By various other
branches of inland navigation, it also communicates
with the rivers, Mersey, Dee, Ribble, Ouse, Trent,
Derweut, Severn, Humber, Thames, Avon, &c. ex-
tending several hundred miles into the counties of
Lincoln, Nottingham, Lancaster, Westmorland,
Chester, Stafford, &c. — The etymology of the name
" Leeds" is very much disputed, and its ancient
history is almost as little known. Camden says,
that it was a royal villa of the Northumbrian kings ;
in Saxon times, also, it was the scene of a sangui-
nary battle between Oswy, king of Bernicia, and
the ferocious Penda, of Mercia, in which the latter
was defeated and slain at the age of seventy -eight.
After the Conquest, Leeds belonged to Ilbert de
Lacy, who probably built the strong castle, which
once stood on the eminence now called Mill Hill.
King Stephen besieged this fortress in 1139; and
Richard II. was confined here in 1399. The prin-
cipal share which Leeds had in the calamitous
broils of the 17th century was its capture, in 1643,
by Sir Thomas Fairfax ; for, though it often changed
masters during that turbulent period, it was never
the scene of much bloodshed. In 1753, it was the
scene of a disgraceful riot, on the attempt of some
spirited individuals to improve the roads by the
establishment of turn -pikes : about eight persons
were killed; forty, wounded; and the rest dis-
persed ; since which event the annals of the town
exhibit an unvaried picture of the advancement of
arts, manufactures, and commerce, with a conse-
quent increase of population and wealth. — The
environs of Leeds are very agreeable, and abound
with those necessaries of life, the cheap acquisition
of which conduces much to domestic comfort, and
the encouragement of commerce ; as coals, stone
for building and paving, and abundance of provi-
sions.— At the distance of a mile and a half from
the south-eastern extremity of Leeds is the plea-
sant village of Knostrop, where was an ancient
mansion of the -family of Baynes. — Temple New-
some, the seat of the Marquis of Hertford, four
miles and a half eastward from Leeds, and not far
from the north bank of the Aire, was anciently a
nreceptory of the Kniglits Templars. The collec-
tion of pictures, there, is said to consist of chefs-
d'eeuvre of the most celebrated masters.
LONG PRESTON.] — At Long Preston, a large vil-
lage, five miles from Settle, a great quantity of
calico is manufactured. The south choir of the
church is of very ancient foundation ; but the edi-
fice, as it appears at present, contains no part of
the original structure, if we except the east end of
the middle aisle. — The mansion-house, at Hellifield,
is a curious castellated builtiing, fortified by Lau-
rence Ilammerton, in the time of Henry VI. and
, modernized by tue proprietor, J. Hammerton, Esq.
I . MALHAM.
YORKSHIRE.
«87
M-AtHAM.— Malliam, a pleasant village, six miles
from Settle, north-eastwnrd, is situated on an ex-
tensive range of rocky bills, near the source of the
Aire. Near the handsome seat of Lord Ribbles-
dale, at this place, is Malhain Cove, an amphithe-
atrical range of lime-stone rocks, at least three
hundred feet in height ; and Malhain Water, an
almost circular lake, a mile in diameter, which
abounds with excellent fish : particularly the largest
trout and perch, which have been caught of the
respective weights of eleven and six pounds.
OTLEY.]— At the distance of 28 miles, W. S. W.
from .York, is Otley, a small but neat market town,
supposed to have derived its appellation from the
quantities of oats raised in the vicinity. The church,
which is spacious, contains several ancient monu-
ments of the Fairfax, Fawkes, Vavasour, Palmes,
and Pulleyn families; and, in the church-yard is
a simple monument to the memory of John Ritchie,
a gentleman of Scotland, with the following inscrip-
tion :
" Here rest the remains of John Ritchie, gentleman,
who migrated, in full hope of a better life, trom this
terraqueous scene of fluctuating trouble, May 15, 1780.
" From torrid climes by nautic art conveyed
I sought the refuge of a peaceful shade.
Oft in the tumult of the broken wave,
I votive called, when Heaven vouchsafed to save.
Here, all is calm— ye idly vain ! deduce
The pointed moral to salvation's use.
Tired of this mortal toil, debate, and strife,
I rise atoning to triumphant life."
At the south end of the town is a hill, called the
Chevin, which rises high over the road to Leeds,
and, together with Romaldsmoor and Poolbank,
forms a mountainous range, which extending to the
Wharf, traverses some of the finest scenery in the
kingdom. — At Pool, a pleasant village, on the
Wharf, three miles from Otley, is a handsome
stone bridge, built by subscription, in 1754. The
beautiful vale, watered by the Wharf, in this part
of its course, is adorned with several seats of dis-
tinguished persons, among whom, are Sir Henry
Ibbotson, W. Fawkes, Esq., T. Clifton, Esq. and
William Vavasour, Esq. — At Arthingtou, was for-
merly a priory of Cluniac or Benedictine nuns,
founded in the reign of Stephen, or Henry II. and
now wholly demolished.
PATELEY BRIDGE.] —The small market-town of
Pateley- Bridge, situated in the parish of Ripon,
nearly 12 miles from that place, south-westward,
and about nine north- west ward from Riplcy, stands
on the Nid, not far from the edge of Niddersdale
forest, and near the limits of Craven. It contains
nothing worthy of particular notice.
PKMSTONE.] — Penistone, another inconsiderable
market-town, eight miles and a half W. S. W. from
Barnsley, is noted chiefly for the numbers of moor
sheep sold at its markets and fairs. If the environs
are remarkable for any thing, it is their dreary ap-
pearance, especially, westward, where nothing is
seen but bleak and barren moors. The soil is humid,
the seed time is late, and harvest is sometimes not
concluded before the month of November.
PONTEFRACT.] — The market-town of Pontefract,
26 miles S. S. W. from York, occupies- the agree-
able summit of a gentle eminence ; is well built,
open, and clean ; and though there are no manu-
factures, is well situated for trade, and for an agree-
able residence. The celebrated castle of Pontelract,
the principal object of notice, was built, originally,
by Alric, a Saxon, before the Conquest ; and was
enlarged by Ilbert de Lacy, to whom it was gives
after that event ; and in whose male descendants it
remained more than a century. It then fell by mar-
riage to the Fitz-Eustace family, who adopted the
name of Lacy, and retained Pontefract till 1310,
when their heiress carried it to Thomas, Earl of
Lancaster. It was at this place, that his descendant,
the inveterate enemy of the favourite Gaveston, was
beheaded by his nephew, Edward II. The next
Royal Blood that stained Pontefract was that of
Richard II. who was here put to death, by violence,
or by famine, for historians disagree upon the
manner in which this unfortunate monarch made
his exit. In the next reign, Scroope, the Arch-
bishop of York, was sentenced here to expiate by
his death the crime of rebellion. Here, also, Anthony^
Earl of Rivers, and Richard, Lord Grey, with
Vaughan and Hawse, suffered for their attachment
to the children of Edward IV. Pontefract was the
last fortress that held out for the sovereign, in the
wars of King Charles. It then existed in all its
original beauty and strength, and was garrisoned
by the King's forces, who, after the battle of Mars-
ton Moor, were besieged by the Parliamentarians.
The governor, Colonel Lowtlu:r, made a brave de-
fence ; arid was, after nearly two months, relieved
by Sir Marmadnke Lang-dale ; but, the Republicans
soon returning, the Royalists had to sustain a second
siege, which commenced on the 21st of Marcbj
1015 ; and, after three months -of incessant can-
nonades, attacks, and sorties, the garrison lieing
almost famished, concluded by the surrender of the
castle, on honourable terms. Colonel Cotterel was
appointed governor, with a small garrison of no
more than one hundred men ; which seeming neglect
induced the king's friends to attempt the recovery
of the fortress. This they effected by stratagem ;
about nine officers, witli Colonel Morrice, finding
means to surprise the guard, and admit their friends.
It was from this gathering of the Royalists, (hat
the daring enterprise of surprising Rainsborough,
at Doncaster, resulted. The third siege lasted
nearly as long as the second. In January, the king
was beheaded, and on that occasion the garriscm
made a vigorous and destructive sally ; but Lam-
bert, cutting off their supplies, they at length sur-
rendered, March 25, 1649, by capitulation, in which
six persons were excluded from mercy : four, who
aided in the seizure of the castle, and two, who
were concerned iu the death of Rainsborough ; but,
even.
588
YORKSHIRE,
even these found means to escape. Within two
months, after this conclusion of the contest, the castle
was unroofed, and all the valuable materials were
removed. Tims was tliis princely fortress, which had
long been considered as the glory and pride of Pon-
tciract, reduced to a heap of ruins. It was built on
an elevated rock ; the thickness of the walls was
twenty -one feet ; and they were flanked by seven
towers. It had also a parapet, merlons, pierced
with long chinks, ending in round holes, called
oilets (osillets, eye-holes) and a deep moat or ditch.
On an eminence stood the keep, or round tower, of
prodigious solidity ; and still the most perfect part
of the ruin. Its diemeter is twenty -one yards, and
at the bottom is a dismal cavern, fifteen feet deep,
and scarcely six feet square. On the second story,
now no longer seen, were the state rooms, in which
Richard II. met his fate. The entire area of the
castle, seemin-gly about seven acres, is now planted
with liquorice. Here are some vestiges of the wells,
which were very deep, but are now mostly filled
up. Next to the castle of Pontefract, its religious
institutions are entitled to precedence in description.
At present there is but one church, which is men-
tioned as early as the reign of Henry I. but appears
to have sustained considerable changes since that
period. The interior is neat, and the chancel has
teen recently embellished by a fine painting of the
Crucifixion, the production, of John Standish, a
self taught artist, and a native of the town. All
Saints, which is said to have existed at the Conquest,
is cruciform, with a handsome tower and a lanthorn,
beautiful Gothic windows, iindothcr, the most striking
marks of splendour; but it was so damaged during
the contests of the civil war, as to be thought inca-
pable of repair ; and it now presents to the view a
venerable ruin. Other places, dedicated to religi-
ous service, at Pontefract, were the chantry, of
which no vestige remains but the site ; the memo-
rable spot where Lancaster was decapitated ; the
priory of St. John, founded in 1090, by Robert de
JLacy, for Benedictine monks ; Friar's Hood, a house
of Dominicans ; a house of Carmelites, and one of
Austin Friars. At present there are, besides the
parish church, conventicles for dissenters, and a
Catholic chapel. Pontefract is famed for its vege-
tables ; and, chiefly, for its liquorice. Among
the few natives who have arrived at eminence in
society, we must notice Bishop Bramhall, the pri-
mate of Ireland, who died in 1663 ; and Lun, the
author of the " Newcastle Rider," a barber by
-trade, but endowed with a lively vein _ of satire.
The etymology of the name, Pontefract, is much
disputed, but is mostly referred to the circumstance
of a broken bridge. The municipal government is
vested in a mayor, recorder, and twelve aldermen ;
and the inhabitants, who pay scot and lot, elect
two members of the representative body. Formerly,
~a man could not be arrested, if he could attain the
anoicnt market cross, called Oswald's, which is now
replaced by a dome and Doric colonnade, which
possess no such privilege. — The neighbourhood of
Pontefract is pleasing, the country is fertile, and
the seats are numerous. Among these, some merit
particular attention : as Metldey Park, the man-
sion of the Earl of Mexborough ; Nostel Park, of
Williamson, Esq. ; Hemsworth, of Sir Francis
Wood, Bart. ; Grove Hall, of W. Lee, Esq. ; Sta-
pleton Park, of E. L. Hodgson, Esq. ; Ackworth,
of Colonel FJaldwin ; Ack worth-Moor-Tup, of the
Earl of Darlington ; Ackworth Villa, of C. Mor-
timer, Esq. ; and Afkworth Park, of J. II. Jessop,
Esq., all within seven miles of the town. Nor must
we omit Ackworth school, a celebrated seminary of
the Quakers. The edifice is well adapted to its
use ; the interior arrangement is the best ; and the
number of pupils is from three to four hundred of
both sexes.
REETH.] — The town of Reeth, situated ten miles
S. by W. from Richmond, and about half a mile
above the confluence of the rivers Arkle and Swale,
is irregularly built upon the southern slope of a
gentle eminence. In 1783, a chapel was erected
here for dissenters ; and, in 1796, a second for
Methodists. In 1778, a free-school was establish-
ed, the funds for the endowment of which were
contributed by Mr. Raw, a Quaker, on the whim-
sical condition that the school should be built within
view of Marrick Abbey, and of that part of the
Swale where he was accustomed to bathe. The
environs of Reeth are romantically beautiful ; and
the prospects from its numerous eminences are re-
markably diversified. In the vale, especially, the
river is seen to great advantage ; on the right, the
steeple of Grinton, behind a clump of trees ; and
beyond these are Cozden Hall and Marrick Abbey,
whilst the Scar of Ellerton which terminates the
view, eastward, rising above the woods, gives to
the scenery a finish extremely picturesque. — Swale
Hall, once the seat of the ancient family of Swale,
who are supposed to have derived their patronymt-
cal designation from the place, stands on the banks
of the river, nearly opposite to Reeth, and now
belongs to Mr. Hutchinson. — Fremington is the ele-
gant mansion of Peter Deuys, Esq. — Grinton is a
small dirty village, about a mile and a half from
Reeth, in the church of which is an escutcheon to
the memory of a lady of the Darcy family. — Cozden
Hall is a small but neat modern mansion, two miles
from Reeth, eastward. — The lead-mines of Swale-
dale, which are au important feature in the district,
belong, chiefly, to the Earl of Pomfret ; but they are
leased to several merchants who derive an annual
produce of about three thousand tons ; while other
mines, as the Hurst, Whitsondale, and Arkengarth,
yield about as much. The total number of persons
employed in the raining operations, amounts to about
two thousand.
RIPLEY.] — The inconsiderable market-town of
Ripley, five miles W. N.W. from Knaresbrough,
is situated upon the Nid. The church contains a
monument, consisting of the effigies of a knight and
his
YORKSHIRE.
liia lady recumbent, beneath an arch ; and in the
church-yard is the curious pedestal of an ancient
rross, with eight niches. A free-school in the (own
is thus inscribed : " This school was built by Mary
Ingilby, in the year 1702, and endowed with part of
the fortune of Katherine Ingilby, being two youngest ;
daughters of Sir William Ingilby, of Ripley, in the
county of York, Baronet." — The ancient castle of
Ripley, built in the reign of Mary, is a spacious,
embattled, and strong, yet elegant mansion, now
the property and seat of Sir John Ingleby, Bart.;
whose ancestors have been settled at Ripley, nearly
four centuries and a half.
RIPON.] — The ancient, and considerable market
and borough town of Ripon, situated 23 miles
W. N. W. from York, is supposed to have derived
its name from its site on the hanks (ripaa) of the
Ure, and the little river Skell. The former of these
is here crossed by a handsome stone bridge, of seven- '
teen arches ; while five other bridges are found
within a mile of the town. Ripon consists almost
wholly of narrow, and irregular lanes ; having but
one tolerable street, which leads from the market- j
place to the church. That edifice is collegiate. In j
the market-place, which is a handsome square, is a j
beautiful obelisk, ninety feet high. Ripon has also
a good town-hall, a free grammar-school, a public
dispensary, Sunday schools, and a school of industry;
four hospitals, of ancient foundation, in which six-
teen poor women, and twelve poor boys, are main-
tained, and clothed, and the latter educated ; and a
«ood theatre, finished in 1792. " As true steel as
Ripon rowels" indicates the former existence of a
spur manufactory here ; and the woollen manufac-
ture is said to have flourished to a considerable
extent. Ripon was represented in the first lower
house of Edward I., and continues formally to elect
two members ; though it is well known that the
holders of the burgage-temires, in which the pri-
vilege is vested, are all influenced by Miss Lau- !
rence, their owner. The Archbishop of York, who |
has a court and prison here, nominates justices, who [
hold sessions in conjunction with the mayor and
recorder : the dean and chapter, also have a prison,
and hold a court for the decision of causes arising ,
within their manor. In its first charter of incor-
poration, granted by Alfred the Great, the chief
magistrate was a " vigilarius," or " wake man,"
whose duty it was to cause a horn to be blown at <
nine o'clock each evening ; after which, if any house !
were robbed, the sufferer was re-imbursed from a
fund to which all contributed. The institution has j
ceased, but its form remains in the blowing of the j
horn. — At the east end of the town, near the church,
or minster, is a protuberance, or tumulus, a hun-
dred yards in diameter, commonly called Ellshavv ;
conical, and composed of sand, gravel, and human
remains. By some, this has been supposed a cha-
racteristic monument of the fierce battle between
Ingiiar and /Ella ; but its origin is generally dis-
puted. — Respecting the origin, of Ripou, little
VOL, iv. — NO. 183.
is known : some calling it British, some Roman,
and others Saxon : nor is it a matter of moment,
though it be of interest, to be informed which of
those nations was its founder. It is mentioned as
the site of a monastery, founded in 661, by /Eta,
Abbot of Melross ; and is described by the histories
of those turbulent ages as often either totally de-
stroyed, or much damaged by the frequent contests
with the Danes, and the ravages of that people.
At the Conquest, it was, with the rest of the dis-
trict, made a desert, by the ferocious Conqueror,
and had hardly risen from its ruins, when, in the
unhappy reign of Edward II., it was subjected to
new misfortunes. In 1323, it was burned by the
Scots ; the following reign restored it to a pros-
perous condition. Henry IV. retired thither from
the plague ; as did the lord president, in 1604.
James I. bestowed a charter on Ripon ; instituting
a corporation of a mayor, recorder, twelve alder-
men, twenty-four common-councilmen, a town-clerk,
and two Serjeants of the mace. Visiting it, in 1617,.
he received a present of a pair of Ripon spurs, and
a gilt bowl ; and his son, Charles I. who twice went
thither, received similar demonstrations of loyalty.
In 1643, it was occupied by the Republicans, who
were, however, soon driven out by Sir John Mal-
lony, from Skipton, assisted by the inhabitants. —
The ancient church of Ripon was established for
canons of St. Augustine ; and was refounded, by
James I. who endowed it with part of its former
revenues. The present church is collegiate ; the
foundation consisting of a dean, subdean, and six
prebendaries. The edifice is large and venerable,
evidently raised at different periods, and often alter-
ed ; exhibiting, at several points, changes from the
Saxon to the Gothic style of architecture. Its form
is that of a cross ; at the west end are two uniform
towers, each one hundred and ten feet high ; and
in the centre, is the great tower, called St. Wilfrid's,
of the same elevation. These were formerly each
surmounted by a spire of wood, covered with lead ;
but, that which crowned St. Wilfrid's having been
blown down, to the entire destruction of the arched
roof of the choir, the others were removed, to pre-
vent a recurrence of the accident ; and open bat-
tlements were substituted, with pinacles at each of
the angles. The whole length of the fabric, within,
is 270 feet, its greatest breadth, 87 feet ; and the
greatest height of the nave, 88| feet. The tran-
sept is 132 feet long ; the ground area of the central
tower is about 33 feet square ; the length of the
chapter-house 31 feet 8 inches. The divisions of the.
interior are the nave, the choir, two side aisles, the
vestry, and the chapter-house. Above the chapter-
house is the library. St. Wilfrid's needle is a passage
which leads to a small chapel under the pavement
of the great tower. The objects most remarkable*
within this ancient fabric, are the Altar-piece, a
curious perspective drawing, representing a colon-
nade ; the stalls of the dean, sub-dean, and pre-
bendaries ; tnje throne of the archbishop ; and the
7 ii east
590
YORKSHIRE.
cast window. The beautifully-stained glass of the
last was much injured, in 1643 ; but it has been lately
renewed : therecent repairs-consistingalmostentirely
of arms. The monuments are numerous ; too
numerous, and too little extraordinary, to be par-
ticularized. They consist, chiefly, of mementos of
members of the Blacket, Bast, Kifchenman, Rids-
dale, Wanley, Oxley, Norton, Weddel, Mallory,
Aislubie, and Markenfield families. A beautiful
tomb, of W. Weddel, Esq. taken from that curious
relic of antiquity, the lanthern of Demosthenes, at
Athens, deserves notice; another, to the memory
of A. II. D. Waddilove, consort of Dr. Waddilove,
is handsome ; and. in the south aisle, is an altar-tomb
of grey marble, sculptured with the figures of a
man and a lion among trees ; and related, by tradi-
tion, to be that of an Irish prince, who died here
on his return from the Holy Land. The vestry and
chapter-house, in the latter of which are several
paintings on wood, of sovereigns from Edward III.
to Queen Mary, are regarded as by far the most
ancient parts of the structure; and even considered
by some as remains of the original erection by St.
Wilfred. The present church was begun in 1331,
and finished in 1494; and, having been lately re-
paired, with considerable taste and good judgment,
presents, upon the whole, a congruous and even
liandsome aspect. — It was under the auspicious pa-
tronage of Wilfred, that Ripon arose from an insig-
nificant village, to be the see of a bishop, and the
site of a cathedral ; and the town still does annual
honour to his memory, in a feast which commences
on the Saturday next after Lammas day : when his
effigies is brought into the town, preceded by music.
Another ancient custom is still very generally ob-
served by the inhabitants. On Midsummer-eve,
every housekeeper, who has in the preceding twelve-
month changed his residence, spreads a table before
his door in the street, with bread, cheese, and ale,
for those who please to regale themselves ; after
which, if the muster is of ability, the company are
invited to supper, and the evening is concluded
with mirth and good humour. — The environs of
Ripon, which are pleasant, salubrious, and fertile,
are also embellished by seats of nobility and gentry,
among which Stndley Royal, the mansion of Miss
Lawrence, and Nevvby Hall, that of Lord Grant-
ham, deserve notice. The first, situated nearly
three miles from Ripon, south-westward, is a com-
modious and elegant building-, adorned with good
pictures, an excellent library, and some of the finest
tapestry in the kingdom. The pleasure-grounds of
Studley Roy ;il excite particular admiration. Situated
three quarters of a mile from the house, in a valley
watered by a rivulet, the entrance is marked by
a group of fine trees. The scene which then meets
the eye is composed of gently rising eminences,
covered with verdure, and scattered with trees, of
the stream, which now glides silently along, and \
is now broken by cascades ; and of statues, orna-
mental buildings, &c. placed in the most advanta-
geous situations. To several of these buildings be-
long the appropriate names of the Cold Bath, the
Temple of Piety, the Octagon Tower, the Rotunda,
or the Temple of Fame, and the Banquetting House.
In the middle of the park, which lies between the
house and the pleasure-grounds, is an obelisk,
which furnishes an excellent station for viewing the
demesne and the town of Ripon ; as does a romantic
eminence, called Mackershaw, which is crowned by
a Chinese Temple. Studley Royal formerly belonged
to the Mallories, and afterwards to the Aislabies,
from whom it descended to the present proprietor.
In the delicious valley, which forms the pleasure-
ground of Studley Royal, are seen the ruins of
I Fountains Abbey : the most perfect remains of such
! an edifice, which are to be found in the kingdom.
The occasion of its foundation is thus briefly re-
lated : "Thirteen Benedictine monks left St. Mary's,
near York, in the year 1132, with a design to ob-
serve a more district and reformed rule; whereupon
Thurstan, archbishop of York, gave them a place,
called Skelldale, not far from Ripon, thereupon to
found an abbey of the Cistertian order, to the honour
of the Blessed Virgin, which was soon after accom-
plished and endowed with great revenues, said to be,
worth, at the Dissolution, 998/. 6s. 8d. Dugdale ;
1178/. Os. Id. Speed." Burton informs us, that the
authors of this splendid foundation lived for some
time under the shelter of seven yew-trees, six of
which were standing in 1810, of unusual size. The
poverty of these humble professors was for some
time so_ extreme, that they were on the point of
starvation ; and it is worthy of remark that, as long
as their penury continued, their piety did not dis-
grace that of their patron, the celebrated St. Ber-
nard ; maintaining even during the space of several
centuries this high reputation tor sanctity ; but they
appear to have been at length corrupted by wealth
and luxury ; and William Thirske, their thirty-
seventh abbot, is particularly cited as an example of
this degeneracy : having been accused of theft and
sacrilege, in stealing and selling certain rich orna-
ments belonging to the abbey ; and wasting the wood,
cattle, and profits. At the Dissolution, the abbey,
with a considerable portion of its lands, was pur-
chased by Sir Richard Greshara. — In its original
state, the abbey of Fountains occupied, with all its
offices, an area of twelve acres, of which about two
are covered by the ruins. Of these the tower and
the walls alone are entire : the roof being completely
decayed ; the chapter-house, however, the refec-
tory, the dormitory, and about one Hundred yards
of cloister, are distinctly visible. The length of
the church is 351 feet ; that of the transept 186
feet; and the great tower is in height 166 j feet.
The last, which is perfect, is a finely proportioned
square of 24 feet : giving, by its picturesque anil
peculiar situation, an uncommon degree of dignity
to the scene. Placed at the north end of the tran-
sept, and adorned with angular buttresses, of wUic'i
none are attached to the church, the time of its
erection
YORKSHIRE.
591
erection may have been the age of Edward III.
Behind (he altar is an apartment 132 feet long and
36 broad, to which none but the superiors of the
order had access. Near the tesselated pavement of
the altar, lies a stone coffin ; said to have once con-
tained the bones of Lord Henry Percy, who was
entombed in 1315 ; and in a chapel to the left, is a
broken stone figure, in full armour, said to be the
effigies of the earl of Mowbray. The nave, com-
pleted by the twelfth abbot, John de Cancia, pre-
sents a majestic specimen of the Gothic style of archi-
tecture in the time of Flenry III. The eastern part,
especially, displays an uncommon degree of light-
T>ess, particularly in the arch of the great east win-
dow, which, if not added since the date (1292) on
the west window, may be accounted the first of that
magnitude in the kingdom. In the chapter-house,
which is 84 feet long and half as broad ; in the east-
ern part of the nave, and in the refectory, which is
108 feet long, were formerly a number of black
marble columns, spotted with white. The floor of
the first was a tesselated pavement, of various de-
signs ; and, in 1791, it was found to contain the
tomb-) of several abbots, on which notices of the
"tenth and twelfth, the beginner and the finisher of the
present edifice, were perfectly legible. Over the
charter- house were the library, and the scriptorium.
The kitchen, which is comparatively small, is dis-
tinguished by a curiously arched fire-place. The
cloisters are divided by nineteen pillars, each branch-
ing at the top into eight ribs, which diverge and
intersect each other on the roof: forming curious
arches. Over these, is the dormitory ; and, within
a few yards, is the apartment of the abbots. The
cloister garden, which is not more than 120 feet
square, is planted with shrubs and evergreens.
These are the most perfect parts of this celebrated
fane : others are seen, melancholy emblems, scat-
tered in decay among the surrounding triumphant
luxuriance of nature. — Fountains Hall, a house
built out of the ruins of the abbey, stands about two
hundred yards to the westward. — Hackfall, a valley
formed by nature in her boldest mould of pictu-
resque beauty, and finished, to impress pleasure as
well as wonder, by the fairy hand of art, lies seven
miles north-westward from Ripon. A rivulet,
broken into cascades, a wooded glen, the decay of
human grandeur, and the renovated freshness of
nature ever impress the mind : and they are found
here. Briefly to notice some particular wonders,
we might describe the cannon rocks, certainly
objects which deserve, from their rareness, the most
careful observation. These are rocking stones :
detached masses which rest upon an obtuse point,
and, though eacha hundred tons in weight, may easily
be put in motion by the hand. Two of these are
perforated ; and are supposed by somev to have
been oracles of the Druids, of whom they are ves-
tiges ; as are some tumuli, and a carved idol of
very gigantic proportions, llargrave, describing
them, and speaking of the perforation, observes that
to a person stationed on one side, " the voice of
another placed at the mouth, or lower extremity of
the cylinder, sounds most dismally, as if it issued
from the very centre of the cliff;" and that " im-
mediately above this orifice of the cylinder, and on
tlte very summit of the rock, are two small grooves,
about two feet asunder, of equal dimensions, per-
fectly circular, and adapted to the insertion of props,
which, it is not improbable, may have supported
the figure, of some oracular idol." — Within a mile
and a half of these tremendous monuments of
sportive nature, is a beautiful lake, inclosed by
high and precipitous rocks, which form a long and
deep valley. — At four miles, south-eastward from
Ripon, is Newby Hall, the seat of Lord Grant-
ham : a brick mansion, situated on the Ure. The
house and pleasure-grounds are disposed with all
the elegance of a refined taste. The former is de-
corated with many valuable sculptures and paint-
ings. The drawing-room is hung with Gobelins
tapestry, which for richness and beauty is scarcely
exceeded by any, the production of that celebrated
manufactory. — In the erection of the edifice, and
in its furniture and embellishments, art, cherished
by opulence, has scattered her beauties with (be
most lavish hand : the delicacy of her modern
touches, and the grandeur of her ancient outlines,
are here contrasted in their several degrees of ex-
cellence; and, in a word, nothing seems wanting
to strike the sense of the novice with wonder, the
perception of the connoisseur with delight. The
estate was purchased by the ancestor of the present
noble proprietor, during the last century.
ROSSINGTON.]— The village of Rossington, four
miles from Doncaster, is remarkable, chiefly, for the
elegance of the parsonage, which, with the manor,
and the presentation to the rectory, belongs to the
Corporation of that place. Beneath an ancient yew
in the church-yard, are two handsome table monu-
ments to the memory of James Stovin, Esq. and of
Mrs. Humble ; and, at a short distance, is a hand-
some obelisk, which commemorates a young lady,
the daughter of the latter.
ROTHERHAM.] — The market-town of Rotherham,
45 miles from York, south-westward, is consider-
able for its manufactures, and for its trade in coals.
Situated in a valley near the rivers Rother aiul Don,
it is far from handsome : the streets are narrow and
irregular; and the houses, being chiefly of stone,
have, in general, a dull and din^y appearance.
The church, which is built of red stone, is, in form,
a cathedral, with a handsome square tower, and a
richly frosted spire. On the bridge, says Leland,
" is a chapel of stone well-wrought." This still
exists, but has been convented into a dwelling-
house for poor people. Attached to a Dissenters'
meeting-house, is a free-school for the education
of thirty poor children of the town. — Rotherham
was the birth-place of Thomas Scott, commonly
called Thomas of Rotherham, Archbishop of York,
who about 1480, founded a college at his native
plac*
YORKSHIRE.
place for a provost, five priests, six choristers, and
three school masters, valued at the Dissolution at
&8/. 5s. 9\d. — Separated from Rotherham only by the
bridge, is the village of'Masborough, which exceeds
it in population ; and is distinguished for the iron-
works of Messrs. Walker. Here are manufactured
cannon of the largest calibre, and almost every kind
of cast, with many articles of wrought iron. Here
also were cast the celebrated bridges of Sunderland
and Yarro. These works were established in 1746,
by a person of the name of Walker*, with his two
brothers. This place possesses another object of
notice, in an Institution, or College for the educa-
tion of Protestant Dissenters, called " The Rother-
ham Independent Academy." This establishment
commenced in 1795, is supported by voluntary con-
tributions. Its object is the education of Dissenting
ministers, on the same plan, nearly, as that which
is pursued at the universities : the course of studies
comprising the languages, Latin, Greek, and He-
brew. English composition ; the principles of
mathematical knowledge ; geography and astro-
nomy ; logic and moral philosophy ; the most neces-
sary and useful parts of natural philosophy ; and
church history and divinity, in the most comprehen-
•ive sense of those terms. — The environs of Ro-
therham, which are pleasant and picturesque, are
embellished by many handsome seats, among which
those of Walker, Esq., J. S. Foljarabe, Esq.,
and the Earl of Effingham, are conspicuous. —
Wentworth House, the residence of Earl Fitzwil-
liam, four miles north-westward from Rotherham,
is a magnificent structure, consisting of a centre
and two wings : the whole above two hundred yards
in length. Many of the apartments are extremely
elegant, especially the hull and gallery ; tlie latter
of wliicii is supported by beautiful Ionic pillars.
Many exquisite pictures, and some sculptures, adorn
the various rooms ; and the museum contains some
fine antiques. The park, also, containing 1200
acres, is agreeably laid out with wood, water, and
ornamental buildings. Among these last, is the
superb mausoleum, erected to the memory of the
late Marquis of Rockingham. This monument,
which is of line freestone, occupies an elevated
site, is ninety feet high ; and consists of three
divisions or stories. The first is a square Doric
basement ; and the second is of the same figure,
but of the Ionic order. Each of its four sides,
having an open arch, discloses a beautiful sarco-
phagus, which occupies the centre ; and the frieze
of the entablature is thus inscribed : This monu-
ment was erected by Went worth, Karl Fitzwilliam,
in 1783, to the memory of Charles Marquis of
Rockingham." The third division is a cupola,
* Mr. Samuel Walker, born in 1716, at Hill Top, Eccles-
field, was, at the early age of twelve, left with two brothers
ami four sisters, destitute of all hut the genius and assiduity
which served to rescue him from so deplorable a situation.
8f If taught, he first established a small school, in which, till the
age of 30, he gave instructions in reading, writing, and common
supported by twelve columns of the Ionic order.
The interior of the lowest story, an apartment rising
into a dome, supported by eight columns, contains-
a white marble statue of the Marquis in his robes,
by Nollekens : the pedestal being inscribed with his
titles ; a poetical tribute to his memory, by F. Mon-
tague, Esq. and an eloquent character, in prose,
by Burke ; whose bust and those of the Duke of
Portland, Frederick Montague, Sir George Saville,
Charles James Fox, Admiral Keppel, John Lee,
and Lord George Cavendish, occupy four recesses
in the wall of the apartment.
SAWLEY.] — At four miles from Clitheroe, is Saw-
ley, where, in 1146, William Percy built a Cister-
tian abbey, valued at the Dissolution at 147/. per
annum, and then granted to Sir Arthur D'Arcy.
The church, which was originally a plain cross,
without columns, or side aisle, greatly resembles the
chapel of Jesus College, Cambridge. The remain-
ing parts are the nave, great part of the transept,
and the foundations of the choir and chapter-house;
the latter of which was the burial place of the
Percies.- — Bolton Hall, near Sawley, is an ancient
mansion of the Pndseys, in which are preserved
the spoon, boots, and gloves of Henry VI. The
boots are of fine brown Spanish leather, lined with
deer-skin, tanned with the hair on; and the gloves
are of the same materials, but worn with the deer-
skin turned outwards. Both are remarkably small,
the feet being little more than eight inches long ;
and the hands not exceeding in size those of a female
of middle height.
SEDBERGH.] — The market-town of Sedbergh,
about -27 miles N. W. by N. from Settle, and nearly
five miles northward from Dent, resembles the latter
in situation ; bring seated in a secluded and fertile
vale, among rugged mountains.
SKLBY. — Selby, a small but lively market-town,
on the Ouse, 14{ miles S. by E. from York, is sup-
posed, perhaps from similarity of name, to have been
the ancient Salebeia. The principal object of interest
hero, is the ancient abbey, which was founded by
tlie Conqueror in 1069, for monks of St. Benedict,
and endowed by succeeding kings with great privi-
leges, as well as adorned with magnificent buildings.
Its revenues amounted, at the suppression, to 819/.
2«. OJ. and it was granted to Sir Ralph Sadler. The
remains of the church, though very imperfect, shew
it to have been a noble edifice, in different styles of
architecture, bat mostly Gothic. Its whole length,
is 207 feet, its breadth 50, and the length of the
transept 100 feet. The steeple, which stood exactly
iu the centre, fell, in 1690; destroying the south-end
of the transept, and the roof of the western side
of the south aisle. The present tower was erected
arithmetic) and was employed in surveying, making dials, ami
other occasional avocations, which shewed genius, and bespoke
a rising character. His n'ligiou- prirciples were those, ot tlie
Independents, for whom he built a place of worship, in which
he lies, and a monument is erected to his memory, inscribed by
tlu- poet Mason.
at
YORKSHIRE.
503
•at the beginning of the 18th century. The other
chief building's of the abbey were, according to
. Burton, on the west and south sides of the present
church, with which they were connected by the
chapter-house, and by a cloister with a row of four
stone pillars : the first is now the vestry ; the latter
is an open stable ; and upon the arch is a garden.
The barn, the granary, and the great gateway, with
the porter's lodge, and two chambers, in which the
abbots held their courts, also remain on the north
side. It should be observed, that the abbot of Selby
•was one of the mitred abbots north of the Trent :
the abbot of St. Mary's, York, being the other. —
Over the Ouse is a fine draw-bridge, of wood,
erected about thirty years since ; and in the market-
place is a handsome Gothic cross. The environs
are particularly worthy of notice for their rich warp
lands, and the quantity of woad that is produced.
—Selby was the birth-place of one of our sovereigns :
when the Conqueror went thither to settle the en-
dowment of this abbey, his queen, by whom he was
accompanied, was delivered of a son, who was after-
wards King of England, by the name of Henry I.
— In the church of Wiston, near Selby, is a monu-
ment, placed in the wall, of a lady in a wimple and
veil ; and, round the stone, this inscription :
Vous ke passes par id : priez pur I'alme dame Margerie
Margri : ke : gist : id d vous : Ihu cri merd,
SETTLE.] — The small, but pleasant town of Settle,
58 miles W. by N. from York, is, like Skipton, and
all the other towns and villages in Craven, almost
entirely of stone ; brick being used only in the chim-
neys of houses. There is no church, the town
being in the parish of Giggleswick. The chief
occupation of the inhabitants is found in the cotton-
mills, especially during the winter. The situation
of Settle is its most remarkable feature : the Castle-
berg rock rising immediately above, and overhang-
ing some of the houses, at the tremendous height
of 300 perpendicular feet; the neighbouring vale,
with its gentle swells, being watered by thellibble ;
and the enormous masses of Penigent, and Ingle-
borough, with many others, bounding the distance.
SHEFFIELD.] — The celebrated manufacturing and
commercial town of Sheffield, 51 miles S. S. W.
from York, and 1G2£ N. N. W. from London, is
situated on an eminence, at the confluence of the
Sheaf and (he Don, over each of which is a stone
bridge ; and from the former of which it evidently
derived its name. Sheffield, like most other manu-
facturing towns, in the day of their prosperity, is
large, populous, opulent, and lively ; and, though
strictly a trading place, not deficient in agreeable
and intelligent society* Though it is tabe confessed
that the smoke of the forges gives to the buildings
a blackish appearance, yet the houses are well built,
and in few towns are the streets more handsome and
* regular ; several of them running in a direct line.
The area occupied by the whole town cannot be less
than a square mile ; length and breadth being nearly
VOL. iv. — NO. 183.
equal. As the public edifices are Letter adapted to
utility than shew, they are not proper objects of de-
scription. There are four churches, called Trinity,
St: Paul's, St. James's, and the Duke of Norfolk's
chapel. Trinity, standing near the middle of the
town, was erected in the days of Henry I. in the
Gothic style, with a spire rising from the centre.
It contains the Shrewsbury chapel, in which are the
monuments of four Talbots, Earls of Shrewsbury.
St. Paul's, an elegant modern structure in the Gre-
cian style, was erected between the years 1720 and
177 1, chiefly bylhe contributions of Robert Downes,
an opulent silversmith. St. James's is also a hand-
some modern erection. The chapel is of octagonal
form, and was designed chiefly for the use of the
pensioners ; before whom divine service is celebrated
daily. — Besides these, there are dissenting conven-
ticles, and a Catholic chapel. — The hospital, called
the Duke of Norfolk's, situated on the east side of
the Sheaf, near the bridge, was founded and en-
dowed in 1670, by Henry, Earl of Norwich, for
eighteen men, and as many women, decayed house-
keepers, who are each provided with a house and. a
garden, and receive a pension of five shillings per
week, with clothing and coals. To the endowment,
Edward, Duke of Norfolk, added, in 1770, the sum
of 1000/. which was applied to the building of a
chapel. — Another hospital was founded here, in
1703, by Mr. Thomas Hollis, for sixteen poor cut-
lers' widows, who have each a separate habitation,
with an allowance of six pounds ten shillings,
yearly, besides coals, and a part of their clothing.
— Haifa mile westward from the town is the General
Infirmary, begun to be erected in 1793, by subscrip-
tion ; and distinguished for the excellence of the
system in which it is conducted. — Sheffield boasts
of three excellent institutions, for the conduct of
education : a free- grammar-school, erected, in 1049,
for the instruction of sixty boys ; a charily school,
established in 1708, for the maintenance and instruc-
tion of poor boys; and another, erected in 1786,
where similar benefits are conferred on female child-
ren. Sunday schools have also been established
here, as in other parts of the kingdom, and with
the same beneficial effects. Near the north-eastern
extremity of the town, on the bank of the Don, are
the military barracks, a noble pile, well fitted to its
use ; and at the south-eastern corner of Trinity
church-yard, is the Town Hull, erected in 1700.
Cutlers' Hall, erected in 1720, is on the south side
of the same church-yard ; and in Norfolk Street, is
an elegant building, which comprises the assembly-
room and theatre. — The manor-house, about a mile
from the town, was formerly the seat of the Earls of
Shrewsbury ; and is remarkable as the pluce where
Cardinal Wolsey sickened on his way to London.
It is now in ruins, and inhabited by a farmer, and
some poor families. — Sheffield is remarkable for
nothing more than for its extensive and various
manufacture of cutlery and plated goods ; in which
are comprised- edged-tools, combs, cases, buttons,
7 L fenders,
694
YORKSHIRE,
fenders, files, anvils, joiners' tools, lancets, forks,
hafts, ink-stands, nails, pocket-knives, pen-knives,
razors, snuffers, scissars, saws, awl-blades, bellows,
&c. Many of these manufactures are carried on in
the neighbourhood, especially in all the villages
within seven miles. In the town and its immediate
vicinity are several foundaries for iron, brass, and
white metal. The manufecture of plated goods is
wholly confined to the town ; and comprises an
almost endless variety of articles, as tea-urns,
coffee-pots, sauce-pans, tankards, cups, candle-
sticks, and other pieces of table-furniture. Few
situations can be better adapted to the system of
occupation here followed, than that of Sheffield :
coal mines are numerous in the neighbourhood ;
the Don and the Sheaf are excellent mobiiia for
machinery ; and the former, being navigable to
Tinsley, three miles off, becomes a channel of com-
munication with every part of the kingdom.— The
advances of Sheffield towards its present excellence
were rapid, but will not surprise if we consider that
the town has been a staple for iron manufactures
since the year 1297. It was not, however, till
1625, that an act was passed for the incorporation
of the master-manufactures ; and it is at that period
that we are to date the commencement of their
improvements. — The ancient history of Sheffield
contains little of importance : at the confluence of
the two rivers, was formerly a strong castle, which,
having been defended against the Republicans, in
1014, was by them demolished, and few vestiges of
it remain. — The environs of Sheffield are agreeable,
and may even be characterised as romantic. From
the number of forges, &c. the air of the town is
not healthy ; but that of the neighbourhood is highly
salubrious. — On the Don, six miles from Sheffield,
is Whanicliffe park, the seat of the lion. J. A. S.
Wortley ; distinguished for the peculiar character
of its scenery.
SHF.RBURN.] — At Sherburn, a small market-town,
4£ miles N. from Ferry -Bridge, was formerly a
palace, given by King Athelstau to the Archbishops
of York, and now entirely demolished. An hospital
and a free-school were founded here by Robert llun-
gale : the latter, with exhibitions to St. John's,
Cambridge.
SKIPTON.] — Skipton, a market- town 48 miles W.
by S. from York, situated in a valley, is built en-
tirely of stone ; and consists chiefly of one very
spacious street, in which is the market-place. The
church, a spacious and handsome, but irregular
structure, occupies the site of one which was built
in the 13th century, and of which nothing remains,
except four stone seats, with pointed ;irclies ami
cylindrical columns. The present edifice received
considerable repairs in the days of Richard 111.;
but the roof, which is very beautiful, cannot bu
ohler than the reign of Ileury VIII. Beneath the
altar, is the vault of the Cliffords, which, on being
examined, was found to contain the remains of five
Earls of Cumberland, with those of their several
countesses ; and, in the body of the church, are
many of the tombs of this family, interesting, chiefly
to the genealogist, for the numerous shields of arms,
depicted on them. — The castle of Skipton is its most
important feature. This edifice, which is seated on
an eminence, eastward from the church, was built
by Robert de Romille, lord of the manor after the
Conquest , and after passing through the hands of
several personages of rank and power, it became,
in 1330, the property of Robert Lord Clifford ;
whose descendant, the Earl of Thanet, is the present
owner. Of the original building little remains-,
besides the western doorway of the inner castle.
Next in date, are seven round towers, which, con-
nected by rectilinear apartments, form an irregular
quadrangular court. Lastly, a range of buildings,
at least 180 feet in extent, eastward, and terminated
by an octangular tower, was erected by the first
Earl of Cumberland, for the reception of " the
Lady Ellinor Brandon's Grace," who married his
son, in the 27 Henry VIII. The present entrance,
which conceals the Norman door-way, was added,
and, as an inscription informs us, the " Castle was
repaired, by the Lady Anne Clifford, Countess
Dowager of Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery."
This celebrated Lady was born here. In the interior,
several passages lead to various rooms, hung with
old tapestry, and adorned with old family pictures,
in which the figures are as large as life. In one of
the courts, stands a venerable yew tree ; and in the
castle-yard, is a large oak, said to have sprung
from an acorn of that tree in which the merry king
was sheltered after the day of Worcester. It is re-
markable that the recent repairs and erections of the
castle exhibit the greatest symptoms of decay : the
old rounders harden and grow stronger with time ;
but the new roof, the gate-way, and many parts of
the interior cannot, without repair, last many years.
— Skipton enjoys the benefit of an excellent gram-
mar-school, founded there by William Ermestead,
a canon of St. Paul's, London, in the reign of Ed-
ward IV. — In the Town House the quarter sessions
are held once a year for the West Riding. Skipton,
being considered the capital of Craven, is the great
mart for corn ; and the Leeds and Liverpool canal,
traversing its outskirts, becomes a channel for com-
mercial intercourse with all the other places which
•t visits. — Wintcrwcll Hall, once the seat of the
Lamberts, situated on the canal, was half destroyed
in its formation. At five miles and a half from
Skipton, eastward, the priory of Bolton was founded
in 1120, by William De Meschines, and his wife
Cecilia de Romille, Baroness of Skipton, on the
occasion of the death of the brother of the latter, at
a place, called the Strid, a narrow cleft of a rock,
through which gushes a torrent of water. This
priory stood on the Aire; the church was cruciform ;
and on the south side were the cloisters. There
are few remains ; but even these fragments indicate
former splendour, and give a melancholy interest to
the romantic scenery of which they form a part;
Burden
YORKSHIRE.
Warden Tower, now a ruin, but formerly a hunting
-rat of tin1 Cliffords, crowns the lofty bank of the
Wharf at some distance above the Strid. — Abmit a
mile from Skipton, on the Knaresbrough road, is
a large quarry, which supplies the town with stone,
by means of an iron rail-way.
SNAITH.] —A small market-town, eight miles from
Selby, south-eastward, is Snaith, seated on a gen-
tle eminence, half a mile from the Aire. The
church, a handsome structure, dedicated to St.
Lawrence, contains the mortal remains of all the
ancestors of Lord Viscount Downe, who has a seat
at Cowick, half a mile off, near the conflux of the
Don and the Aire. An old mansion, at the west
end of the town, was formerly the residence of the
Yarborough family.
STAINLAND.] — Near Stainland, a township in the
parish of Halifax, have been discovered many coins
and other vestiges of a Roman settlement. Mr.
Watson places here the station Cambodunum ; and,
indeed, the appearances of foundations, domestic
utensils, altars, and pavements, with three roads
which here diverge, would seem to countenance
such a conjecture. At Stansfield, also in this town-
ship, are many stones of immense size ; one of
which, five yards high, and three thick, is called
the Bride.
TADCASTEB.] — Tadcaster, situated ten miles from
York, south-westward, is supposed to have been
the Roman Calcaria. At present, it is a neat, well-
built, and pleasant town, distinguished by one of
the finest bridges in the county, which, being built
over the Wharf, a petty rivulet in dry times, but a
considerable stream after the fall of rain, occasioned
the well known distichs of Dr. Eades, who -visited
the town at those different seasons :
Nil Tadcasler habet musis vel carmine dignum
Prater magnified structum sine flumine pontem.*
and
Qua: Tadcaster er.-.l sine flumine pulvere plena,
Nunc liabct immcnsNiu fluvium, et pro pulvere Uiliim.-}-
This bridge, was, it is said, erected out of the ru'ns
of a castle, which stood near the river, on the south
side; and of which Leland says, " it seemeth by
the plot that it was a right statclie thing." — Here is
a free-school, and an hospital, which were founded
by Dr. Oglcthorpe, that bishop of Carlisle, who,
after having assisted at the coronation of Queen
Elizabeth, was by her deprived of his see for ref'.ising
to abandon his religious tenets. Tadcaster being
a post of importance, was, in 1G42, held by the
Republicans, and sustained a vigorous attack from
the Royalists, under the Earl of Newcastle, in which
the latter were repulsed. — The neighbourhood is,
besides, remarkable for the field of Towton, con-
* The muse in Tadcasler can find no tlieme,
But a most noble bridge «uhout a stream.
tested by Edward IV. nnd Margaret of Anjoo,
Palm Sunday, 1461. The cause, tbe conduct, at
the result of this direful affray are too well-known
to need minute repetition : more than one hundred
thousand Englishmen met, and sixty thousand fell,
to decide whether a tyrant or an idiot should le
their master ; — the event placed Edward IV. on the
throne. The field is a ridge of high ground, be-
tween the villages of Towton and Saxton, to which
the two wings of the Lancastrians extended, while
their centre occupied the heights. Behind, is the
little river Cock, in attempting to cross which, the
greater number of the conquered were slaughtered ;
no prisoners being taken ! — Five miles south-east-
ward from Tadcaster is Scarthing-well Hall, the
seat of Lord Hawke ; and at the distance of three
miles southward, is Haslewood Hall, long the seat-
of the Vavasours, of whom there are many monu-
ments, inscriptions, aad escutcheons in the chapel.
THORNE.] — Thorne, a small market-town, 29
miles South from York, is situated on marshy
ground, entirely surrounded by the Don, the Aire,
the Ouse, and Dutch River, which Communicate
with each other, and with the Stainibrth and Head-
ley canal, which passes the end of the town. Here,
at a place called Hangman Hill, vessels are built
of a size large enough for the coasting trade; and
the town carries on a considerable trafh'c with the
metropolis, by means of the Don. The surrounding
marshes abound with vegetable remains, and with
vestiges of the Romans.
TICKHILL.] — Seven miles S. from Doncaster, and
three from Bawtry, westward, is the market-town
of Tickhill, situated in a valley, and built mostly
of brick, without much attention to regularity.
The church, which is a spacious structure of the
reign of Henry III. has a lofty and beautiful tower ;
and it contains several ancient monuments of dif-
ferent families in the neighbourhood. — The castle,
of which little now remains, except the mound of
the keep, a small portion of the wall, and a gate-
way, has become an ornamental appendage to the
seat of the Hun. F. Lumley. Nevertheless, the keep
was deemed of such strength and importance, as
to have been garrisoned in the civil war, by the
Royalists; and, it was on that occasion, that, having
been taken by the Republicans, it was by them
razed to the foundations. — The town and its vicinity,
had, " in times more clerical," several religious
establishments: as, a Royal Chapel, founded in
the castle by Eleanor, wife of Henry II. ; an hospi-
tal, founded in 1-225 ; a house of Augustine friars ;
and, in a marsh, near the town, an hospital, or free
chapel, for several priests, founded in 13-20. — At
the distance of two miles and a half from Tickhill,
south-westward, is Sandbeck, the seat of the Earl
of Scarborough, built of Roche Abbey stone, in the
purest style of Grecian architecture. The interior
The verse before on Tadcaster was just,
Bui now great floods we see, and dirt for dust.
of
590
YORKSHIRE.
of this elegant building, the furniture and the deco-
rations, as well'as the different offices, are perfectly
well planned, and adapted to domestic comfort.
The park is " passing beautiful :" deer, well-grown
timber, a verdant soil, an extensive lake, and
swarms of water-fowl compose the scene. — Near
its western extremity is Roche Abbey, a venerable
ruin, built in a deep vale, of that kind of stone to
which it has given its name. The remains consist
of one side of the nave, and some detached arches,
•with a few fragments which are scattered around ;
and these, with the native scenery of the place,
would produce a striking, an undivided, effect ;
but the incongruous additions of modern art have
rendered it more fit to excite the smile of ridicule.
This monastery, founded in 1147, by Richard de
Bailli, for monks of the Cistercian order, was by
him endowed with " all his wood, along the middle
way between Eilrictorp, as far as Lounetucit, and
so to the water, which is the boundary (diorsa) be-
tween Malteby and Hoton."— Walding Well, the
seat of Sir Thomas White, Bart, is situated about
five miles southward from Tickhill, in a well-
wooded park of considerable extent ; in which was
formerly a priory of nuns, founded by Ralph de
Cbeurolcourt.
WAKEFIELD.]— Wakefield, 32 miles S. W. by S.
from York, finely situated on the southern side of
a hill, sloping to the Calder, is one of the most
handsome and opulent towns in the West Riding.
It is extremely well built: most of the streets are
regular, handsome, and spacious ; and many of the
houses are large, lofty, and elegant. The market-
place is somewhat confined ; but the cross is a beau-
tiful structure, supported by an open Doric colon-
nade, and surmounted by a spire, which is regard-
ed as the highest in Yorkshire. The time of its
erection is uncertain ; hut it is generally supposed,
that a church existed here at the Conquest. — Near
the end of the 18th century, a lady, whose name
was Newstead, bequeathed a piece of ground as
the site of a new church, and one thousand pounds
in aid of the support of a minister. This edifice,
after some litigation, was begun to be erected ; and
now, that it is finished, it displays, with the sur-
rounding houses, a pleasing and uniform scene.
— -Wakeiield has a free grammar-school, which was
founded by Queen Elizabeth, and has been subse-
quently endowed with many donations from indivi-
duals, besides which, there is a charity-school for
the instruction and clothing of one hundred and six
poor children of both sexes. The charitable dona-
tions to this town are, indeed, very considerable :
amounting in all to not less than one thousand
pounds per annum. This fund,* which is dispensed
by fourteen trustees, is applied to the maintenance
of several students at the universities, the appren-
ticing of poor boys, the support of old and infirm
persons, and other equally laudable purposes. The
House of Correction for the whole West Riding is
au extensive and handsome edifice, in which are
more than one hundred and fifty cells. Over the
Calder, is a handsome stone bridge ; on the centre
of which, projecting from the eastern side, is an
ancient chapel, built in the richest style of Gothic
architecture. The windows, especially, are adorned
with various and beautiful tracery ; but the west
front, which faces the passage over the bridge, ex-
ceeds all the rest in profusion of ornament. This
is divided by buttresses into compartments, or re-
cesses, with lofty pediments and pointed arches,
richly-flowered spandrils, and an entablature, which
is crowned by five basso relievos, niches, and tur-
rets; and finished by battlements of great beauty.
It was built by Edward IV. in memory of his father,
and others of his party, slain at the battle of Wake-
field. It was a few years ago used as a warehouse,
and is now occupied as a news-room. — The manor of
Wakefield is the property of the Duke of Leeds,
whose steward holds a court-leet at the town-hall
every half year, besides a manor-court at intervals
of three weeks. Both Leland and Camden describe
Wakefield as famous in their days for its largeness,
neat buildings, cloth-trade, and markets. But in
modern times the improvements in the woollen cloth
manufacture, with the introduction of others, have
greatly augmented both its wealth and population.
The woollen cloths are mostly carried to Leeds and
Huddersfield ; the stuffs, only, are exposed for sale
in an elegant hall, which is subject to the same regu-
lations as- those of Leeds. The Calder navigation,
extended to Wakefield in 1698, is an abundant
source of riches to that place, as well as of conve-
nience to the whole district through which it passes.
The environs of Wakefield are beautiful ; and
abound, at the distance of a few miles, northward,
with coal mines. Two miles from Wakefield, south-
ward, is the large village of Sandal, where are
vestiges of an ancient castle, built in the reign of
Edward II. by John Earl of Warren, and after-
wards the property of Richard Plantagenet, Duko
of York, who, aspiring to the crown, fell in battle
before its walls.
WEST BRITTON.] — At West Britton, six miles
from Barnsley, is Britton Hall, the residence of
J. R. Beaumont, Esq. a handsome structure, beau-
tifully situated in the middle of an extensive park,
stocked with deer. At this place, also, is a neat
chapel, endowed by Sir Thomas Blackett, a former
proprietor of the mansion.
WETHERBY.] — Wetherby, a small market-town,
17 miles W. S. W. from York, stands on the north
side of the. Wharf, over which there is a handsome
bridge. The manor was once the property of the
Knights Templars. In 1642 the town was twice
attacked without success by the royalist general, Sir
Thomas Glcnham. — Wetherby Grange, a mile from
| the town, is the seat of R. Thompson, Esq. ;
j Slorkeld Park, two miles westward, is the seat of
i William Middleton, Esq. ; and, at Spofford, is the
j seat of the Rev. John Trip, near which are the
ruins of a magnificent castle of the Percys. These
» occupy
YORKSHfRE.
507
occupy a site on a sloping assent, forty-five yard
in length, and seventeen in breadth ; and indicate
that the edifice, which was destroyed by order o
the Republican parliament, was once as much dis-
tinguished for its grandeur, as it now is for the
picturesque beauty which it lends to the landscape
WORSBOROUGH.] — Worsborough is a pleasant vil-
lage, situated in n beautiful dale of the same name
This valley is plentifully watered ; and abounds with
coal, iron-stone, and timber. The church, a chape!
of ease to that of Darfield, was founded iu the reign
ef Henry ill. by Sir Robert Rochley, who also
instituted a lectureship, and established a free gram-
mar-school.
YORK.]— The city of York (199* miles N. by W.
from London) with the contiguous district on the
western side, forms a distinct jurisdiction, under
the denomination of the Ainsty, or county, of the
city of York. The Ainsty was formerly a wapen-
take of the West Riding ; but in the year 1417, lit
was annexed to the city, and placed under its im-
mediate jurisdiction. The circuit of the Ainsty is
computed at thirty-two miles, as follows : — .From
the confluence of the Nid and Ouse, at Nun Monk-
ton, to that of the Wharf and Ouse near Nun-
Appleton, 12 miles ; from the junction of the Wharf
and Ouse to Thorp- Arch, 11 miles; from Thorp-
Arch to Wilstrop, on the Nid, by the outrange of
the parishes of Thorp-Arch, Bickerton, Cattle
Bridge, and Wilstrop, 6 miles ; and from Wilstrop,
along the line of the Nid, to its confluence with the
Ouse, 8 miles. — The whole district of the Ainsty,
anciently a forest, was disafforested by the charters
of Richard I. and his successor John. This district,
forming a part of the Vale of York, has the same
natural features. In the western part, the surface
is diversified with gentle swells, and various soils,
in some parts on a clayey, in others on a calcareous
or gravelly bottom. The eastern part, is a perfect
flat, abounding in excellent pasturage. The whole
is fertile, and the climate is mild. It comprises
thirty-four villages and hamlets, besides half of the
town of Tadcaster, which has already been described.
The city is believed to have been called Caer Ehrauc
by the Britons ; but at what period it received that
name is unknown. It has been conjectured, that a
colony of Celts;, from the town of Bvora, in Portu-
gal, or from Ebura, in Spnin, flying from the swords
of the Carthaginians, or Romans, or a colony of
Eburones, a people who, in the time of Ca?sar, in-
habited the territory of Liege, might have found
their way into this country, and given to the place
where they hsul fixed their habitation the name of
Eborac, which, with a Latin termination, was
changed into Cboracum. Lrland and Camden
consider the name as derived from its &uuslion on
the river Ure, or Eure, which now takes the ap-
pellation of Ousn, a little below Boroughbridge.
The most probable etymology of its present name
seems to rest on 'Eure, the name of the river, anil
wie, the Saxon word fora place of refuge or retreat.
VOL. iv. — NO. 184.
Eurewic, or Eurewjck, would imply a place of
retreat or strength on the Eure ; and the name
might be easily corrupted (o jtlut of York.
From the central position of York, the Roman
troops could readily march to any point and the
dispersed cohort* could be expeditiously recalled
to that city, when it was requisite to concentrate
their operations. The navigable river Ouse, at the
same time, afforded an easy communication with
every part of the Roman .empire in Britain. The
eastera part of the city, which the Romans seem
to have considered as their chief strength and se-
curity, is Hanked on the east and south by the Foss,
and on the west by the Ouse, which meet on the
southern side below the castle. On the north, an
impenetrable and swampy forest, called, in the Ro-
man times, Caleterium Nemns, and afterwards the
forest .of Galtres, extended from the walls of the
city, more than 10 miles in length. To these natural
defences were added strong walls and bulwarks ;
especially a wall running from the ruins of the
multangular tower in the south wall of the mint-
yard, in a liae nearly parallel to the Ouse, and
terminating at the Castle Hill. The west side of
the city was also as strongly fortified as the nature
of the ground would allow. From the time of the
Romans to that of the latest Scotch wars, York was
always esteemed the bulwark of the north. Dr.
Stuketey supposes, with probability, that the Carr-
dyke, which extended from the vicinity of Peter-
borough to the river Witham, below Lincoln, was
made by the Romans chiefly in the view of supplying
the city of York, and their northern army, stationed
there, with provisions.
Eboracum, or York, may be regarded as the
picture of Rome in miniature ; displaying the same
political lineaments, on a smaller scale ; possessing
an imperial palace and tribunal ; having the same
magistracy ; and being governed by the same mix-
lure of civil and military power, as the parent city. —
The periods in which it was honoured by the resi-
lience of the emperors Adrian, Severus, and Con-
stautius Chlorus, were, undoubtedly, those in which
t was in its greatest splendour. The temple of
Bellona, a temple built only in Rome itself, and in
:he principal cities of the empire, is, as well as the
talatium, or imperial palace, expressly mentioned
>y Spartian, in his life of Severus ; and it is sup-
josed to have been situated near the place where
he manor and the ruins of the abbey are now to be
ieen. The palatium is generally supposed to have
stood in the place now called the Bedern. Fro(n
he terrible burnings and devastations to which
York has been exposed, the only remains of Roman,
structures, now to be seen in the city, are the arch
11 31icklegate Bar, and the multangular tower, with
he south wall of the Mint Yard. The former is
milt .entirely of millstone grit, and forms a true
egment of a circle supporting a massy pile of Gothio
nrrets, which has no doubt been often renewed since
he building of the strong foundation, which still
7 M bid*
593
YORKSHIRE.
"buls defiance (o the ravages of time. The multan- j
guUu* tower communicated with' Bootham Bar, and-
the \vall appears to have extended quite 'through
the city,, in a line nearly parallel with the Ouse.:
The stones of the wall are not of the grit kind, but
of the common freestone ; the foundation of the
tower is of a singular shape and strength ; and the
wall runs from it in a south-easterly direction,
making a straight line on the east side of Conyng'
Street, and is supposed to have extended to the
Foss. — Various Roman antiquities have, at different
times, been found in digging cellars, drains and
foundations, for bouses and other buildings, at
York.
Modern York stands on the ruins of ancient
Eboracum. The natural soil of the city is found
to be mostly a morass, except the west part, and
the fine sandy bank that runs along the east side of
the Ouse; but it has been raised considerably above
the mosses ; and it is scarcely possible to dig any
Avhere without meeting with burnt earth, cinders,
stone pavements, &c. deep in the ground. — The
general history of the kingdom of Northumberland
exhibits a series of bloody and destructive revolu-
tions ; and, before the Britons were expelled, and
the Saxon dominion established, it appears that
Eboracum, or Roman York, had been destroyed
'almost to its very foundations. Many churches had
been erected during the reigns of the Christian em-
perors, the successors of Constantine ; yet when the
Saxons were converted, no place for divine worship
could be found, till Edward, their king, caused a
temporary building of wood to be erected for that
purpose. York was taken and ravaged, and almost
destroyed, by Penda, kingofMercia, and Cadwallon,
king of Wales ; and, indeed, in all the civil wars,
which incessantly convulsed the kingdom of Nor-
thumbria, this city was always the prize, and often
the prey of the conquerors. In the first part of the
* The Jews, from their immense riches, had long been (lie
objects of envy and hatred. Richard I. on his accession to Ihe
throne, issued an order, that no Jew should be present at the
ceremony of his coronation, either at church or at dinner. The
chief of the Jews, however, from all parts, being summoned to
London by their brethren there, to agree upon a rich gift to
the new kins;, to obtain his favour and protection, many of
them, notwithstanding the injunction, had the curiosity to see
the ceremony ; but being observed among the crowd by the
guards, they were beaten, abused, and some of them killed
The people, impressed wilh a notion that the king had given
orders that the Jews should be destroyed, began a massacre of
them in London ; and plundered and burnt their houses, and
in them many of their wives and children. Though the king
immediately ordered a proclamation to stop these proceedings,
yet the example at London was followed at Norwich, Lynn,
and Stamford, and with greater fury at York, notwithstanding
the king, at his departure for Palestine, left orders for the pro-
tection of the Jews, and the punishment of such as should
molest them : for, being inflamed by a wicked priest, certain
bloody wretches, who had lesolved upon the destruction of the
Jews, and to enrich themselves with their pillage, set fire to a
part of the city of York ; and while the citizens were busv in
, extinguishing the flames, broke into the house of a principal
ninth century, however, York was the seat not only
of trade, but of letters ; and grammar, rhetoric^
'poetry, astronomy, and physics, were there studied
with great assiduity. This famous city was again
doomed to suffer a dreadful reverse. On its capture
by the Danes, under Inguar and Ubba, it was
again laid in ruins; and most of its inhabitants fell
victims to the sword. Its destroyers, however,
raised it from its ashes ; repeopled it with a colony
of Danes ; and made it the capital of the Danish, as
it had lately been of the Saxon, kingdom of Nor-
thumbria. York again became the seat of royalty,
and gradually retrieved its commerce. Opposing
the views of William the Conqueror, that prince
besieged the city ; when, after a gallant defence of
about six months, it surrendered. Enraged at its
holding out so long against him, William imme-
diately ordered the city to be razed to the ground ;
and put to death many of the principal inhabitants.
It lay a long time buried in its ruins ; and, for the
space of above half a century, its name is scarcely
mentioned in history. In the time of King Stephen,
however, it appears to have once more reared its
head, when it was again destroyed by an accidental
fire, which burned down the cathedral, the abbey of
St. Mary, with thirty-nine parish churches in the
city, and Trinity church in the suburbs. This
calamitous event happened in June, 1137, at 'a
time when civil war and foreign invasion were deso-
lating the whole kingdom. From this period,
however, York enjoyed for some ages the blessings
of peace, and again rose to wealth and consequence.
Subsequently to the Conquest, York was often
visited by the kings of England. Henry II. held
parliaments here, in the years 1 160, and 1171. The
succeeding reign of Richard I: was disgraced by
some of the most horrible scenes that ever stained
the annals of a nation.* — During the reign of John,
and Henry III. York was the scene of several
interviews
Jew, who had been murdered in London, and whose wife had
strengthened it for her defence ; they murdered the whole family,
and all who had taken refuge there, and burned the house to
the ground. The Jews upon this, in the utmost terror, got
leave to convey all their wealth into the castle ; and obtained
shelter there for their own persons, and for their wives and
children : except some few, who were sacrificed to the rage of
the populace, who burnt all the houses of the Jews throughout
the city. It unluckily happened, that, the governor of the
castle having business in the town, the poor Jews, l>eing afraid
he went out to agree upon delivering them up to their enemies,
refused him admittance into it again; which incensing him,, he
applied to the high sheriff, who raised the posse comitatus,
besieged the castle, and reduced the Jews to such extremity,
that, being refused mercy, though they offered to buy it at
the expend- of immense sums, they took the advice of one of
their rabbies, come lately among them from abroad ; and, first
having burnt all their rich goods, and so damaged even their
plate, that their barbarous- enemies could not be much the better
for their spoils, they set fire to all the towers of the castle, and
fell each man to cutting the throats of his own family, till they
had destroyed all who came into this dreadful scheme of their
rabbi ; who, in the last place, followed the advice he .had given
In the mean time the lire of the-taslle increasing, a number-o
unljapp
YORKSHIRE.
599
interviews between the kings of England and Scot-
hind, and of several parliaments. In 1251, the
daughter of Henry III. was married to'Alexander,
king of Scotland, in the cathednil church of St.
Peter, at York. In 1298, the barons being as-
sembled here, the king's confirmation of the Magna
Cliarta, and the Charter of Forests, was read, and
the bishop of Carlisle, " in pontificaiibus," pro-
nounced a heavy curse on any that should be guilty
of their infringement. — The city of York was fre-
quently the temporary residence of the kings of
England, and the rendezvous of their armies in
their expeditions against -Scotland. The reign of
Richard II. was extremely favourable to the ci-
tizens of York. That monarch granted them many
charters, immunities, and privileges. In 1389,
having come to York to settle a dispute between
the archbishop, the dean and chapter, and the mayor
and citizens, he effected a reconciliation of the
parties ; and, on that occasion, he took his sword
. from his side ; and gave it to be borne before William
de Selby, as first lord-mayor of York. In 1392,
he presented the first mace to be borne before the
lord-mayor ; and, in 1396, he appointed two sheriffs,
instead of three bailiffs. — During the wars of the
rival roses, this city was frequently thb rendezvous
of armies, and the theatre on which' were displayed
the memorials of vengeance. After the battle of
Wakefield, fought in 1460, in which Richard, Duke
of York, met with his fate, the head of that noble-
man was placed on the top of Micklegate Bar, as .
were the heads of Richard, Earl of Salisbury, Sir
Richard Limbrick, Sir Ralph Stanley, John Harrow,
Captain Hanson, and several other persons of dis-
tinction who had been taken prisoners in that action,
and executed at Pontefract. Edward IV. caused
the head of his father, and those of his adherents,
to be taken from Micklegate Bar, and the heads of
the earls of Devon and Kimc, and of several other
distinguished persons of the opposite party, to be
fixed in their place. After Richard III. had usurped
the sovereignty, he came to York, where the cere-
mony of his coronation was performed a second
time, in the cathedral, by Archbishop Rotherham,
with the greatest magnificence ; and was followed by
tournaments, masques, plays, and other diversions.
Richard distinguished the city by various marks of
munificence; and the citizens shewed their remem-
unhappy Jews, who would not come into this bloody action
(in vain endeavouring to extinguish it) from the walls besought
the mercy of the besiegers, acquainting them with what had
happened ; and threw over the dead bodies of their brethren,
in confirmation of the truth of what they said ; and, offering to
become Christians, had hopes given them of their lives; but no
sooner did their merciless enemies gain admittance, than they
butchered every one of the Jews, who called aloud for baptism,
in hopes of escaping their worse than Pagan cruelty. Not sa-
tisfied with this, the barbarous robbers and murderers ran next
to the cathedral, where were deposited the bonds and other
securities of the money owing to the Jews by the Christians;
broke open the chest, and destroyed them all. There were
300 men who took shelter in. the castle, besides women and
brance of his favours, by a steady adherence to his
interests. Even alter the death of Richard, the
citizens evinced considerable hostility against the
government of Henry VII. — His successor, Henry
VIII. established here a president and a council,
with various powers and authorities, under tiie great
seal of Oyer and Terminer, &c. within the counties
of York, Durham, Northumberland, the city of Y'ork,
and county of the same, the city of Carlisle, the
town and county of Kingston-upon-Hull, Newcas-
tle-upon-Tyne, and Berwick- upon-Tweed. This
court continued until the reign of Charles I. — In
1604 this city suffered much from the plague, no
fewer than 3512 persons dying of it ; the markets
were all cried down, and the courts above men-
tioned were adjourned to Ripon and Durham. — In
1611, during the civil wars, Sir TUomas Fairfax
laid siege- to the city ; but having advice that Prince
Rupert with a 'large army was approaching, he
raised the siege, and encamped on a large moor
about five or six miles from York, called Marston
Moor. On the second of July the armies met,
when, after a bloody engagement, the royalists were
entirely routed. After this victory, the purliamefK
tary forces once more lajd siege to the city, which,
after a defence of eighteen weeks, surrendered on
the most honourable terms.
York has within these few years been much
improved. The.streets have been widened in many
places, by taking down a number of old houses,
built so as almost to meet at the upper stories.
They have also been new paved, and additional
drains have been made. The erection of the locks
upon the Ouse, about four miles below the city,
has been a great advantage to it ; as, before this,
the river was frequently very low, leaving quantities
of sludge and dirt in the .very heart of the city, also
the filth and mud of the common sewers, which it
was unable to wash away. — In 1793 a subscription
was raised for rendering the Foss navigable. This
river hail long been a nuisance ; but by (his under-
taking it is not only made serviceable to the country
through which it passes, but contributes to the salu-
brity as well as the beauty of the city.
The cathedral church of St. Peter is justlyesteemed
the pride and glory of York. When Edwin, King
of Northumbria, was converted to Christianity, the
city, as has already been observed, could not furnish
children. So that the whole number of Jews thus miserably
slaughtered, must be between 1000 and 1500, besides those
who were massacred in the city. — The king, who was then in
the Holy Land, as soon as he heard of this villainy, was highly
incensed ; and sent orders to the bishop of Ely, his chancellor
and regent, to go down in person to York, and execute strict
justice, without favour, or affection, on all offenders. The
bishop came to the city, but the chief authors ot the riot had
fled to Scotland. However, the citizens were laid iinder a.
large fine ; and the sheriff and governor of the castle were
removed from their places and committed to prison; and the
soldiers concerned in the affray were punished, turned out
of service ; but not cue mai), either then or afterwards, was
executed.
a plactf
coo
YORKSHIRE.
•a place fit for the celebration of Divine service.
The walls of the church, which Edwin began to erect,
had been raised, and the roofing hail been prepared,
when that prince fell in battle. The work was car-
ried on and completed by Oswald; but that prince
was soon after slain in battle, by Penda, King ol
Mercia, and the newly erected church was nearly
•demolished. Wilfrid, appointed to tho see, in 669,
repaired (lie walls, ami laid on a new roof, which he
covered, with lead. From this time tbe cathedral
received various embellishments ; but the famous
library of Archbishop Egbert was its principal orna-
ment. History is silent concerning the further state
of this edifice, till the year 1069, when the cathe-
dral, as well as great pa>rt of the city, was destroyed
in -the conflagration, occasioned by the Norman
garrison setting fire to the suburbs, when besieged
by the Danes and the revolted Northumbrians.
Thomas, a canon of Bayeux, in Normandy, being
made archbishop in the following year, resolved to
build the cathedral on a larger and nobler plan ; and
under his auspices and direction, it rose like another
phoenix from its ashes. Scarcely, however, had
Mlf a century elapsed before it was again almost
totally destroyed, by a fire, which accidentally hap-
pened in 1137. Archbishop Roger began, in 1171,
to rebuild the choir, and that prelate had the pleasure
of seeing the work completed. That vast edifice,
liowever, has been wholly renewed since the time of
Archbishop Roger ; and the present cathedral dis-
plays no characteristics of the architecture of that
age. The oldest part is the south transept, which
was built by the Archbishop Walter de Grey, in the
reign of Henry III., and affords a beautiful speci-
men of the style which had then begun to prevail.
About A. D. 1260, John le domain, treasurer of
the church, and father of the archbishop of that
name, built the north transept, and raised a hand-
some steeple in the place which the lantern tower
cow occupies. In 1291, the first stone of the nave
was laid by the Archbishop^ John le Remain, the
dean, precentor, and canons, &c. attending. This
part of the structure, however, was not finished till
about the year 1330. William de Melton, the forty-
second Archbishop, carried on the work, and finished
the west end, with the steeples, as it remains. The
materials for the building of the nave were furnished
by Robert de Vavasour, who granted for this pur-
pose, and for its future repairs, the free use of his
quarry near Tadcaster ; and by Robert de Percy,
Lord of Bulton, who itave his wood at Bolton,
to be employed in the roofing. The memory of these
benefactors is preserved by statues, at the western
r.nd eastern ends of the cathedral. — The choir built
by Archbishop Roger not corresponding with the
elegance of the nave, it was taken down by the
order of John de Thoresby, who was raised in
>3.>2, to the archiepiscopal chair. In 1361, belaid
the first stone of the new chnir ; and, out of his own
private purse, expended an immense sum in carrying
•n tbe building. — Within about two hundred years,
from the period in which the south transept was
begun, this superb cathedral was completed, in tbe
forms and dimensions in which it appears at this
day, exhibiting a splendid monument of the piety
of former times, and an interesting specimen of the
progressive improvement of Norman architecture.
Of the different parts of this magnificent edifice, the
chapter-house is the only one of which the <late is
totally unknown ; but, Drake is inclined to ascribe
it to Walter de Grey. The pillars which surround
the dome are of the same kind of marble as those
that support his tomb ; and the effigies of an arch-
bishop between those of a king and queen, placed
over the entrance, which, by having a serpent under
his feet, and his crosier entering its mouth, exactly
corresponds with the like representation of Walter
de Grey on his monument, is considered to be a fur-
ther indication that the chapter-house owes its erec-
tion to that eminent prelate. Others, however,
suppose it to be of a more recent origin. The
pavement of the cathedral is of a recent date. Being
disfigured by the number of grave-stones with which
it was over-spread, it was, in 1736, taken up and
new laid. The stone for this purpose was given by
Sir Edward Gascoigue, of Parlington, from this
quarry at Huddlestone. — The' following are tho
dimensions of this cathedral :
Feet.
Length from east to west. 5245
Breadth of the east end tOo
Breadth of the west end 109
length of th6 cross aisles from north to south 222
Height of the two western towers, or steeples. ....196
Height of the nave 99
Height of the lantern tower, or steeple...... 235
The western end, or front, with its two uniform
steeples, is superb. It has all been cloistered for
imagery ; but lias lost much of its beauty by being
robbed of a great number of curious statues, with
which it was formerly adorned. A recent thorough
repair will transmit tbe name of Markham to the
praise of posterity. The east, or choir end, begun
by Archbishop Thoresby, displays a more florid style
of architecture, crowned with elegant niches and
airy pinnacles. Over one of the finest windows in
the world is seen the statue of the venerable founder
of the choir, mitred and robed, sitting ip his nrcbie-
piscopal on, sir. At the basis of this window are the
heads of Ciirist and the apostles, with that of a king,
supposed to be Edward HI. In the niches of the
buttresses are the statues of Robert de Vavasour and
Robert de Percy. The great tower, or lantern
steeple, is supported in the inside by four large and
massy columns, forming four arches ; but the vast-
ness of its fabric accurately corresponding with the
magnitude of this part of the structure. — The south
transept is distinguished by a number of narrow
and acutely pointed arches, with slender pillars,
crowned with plain or slightly ornamented capitals .
and also by the absence of prominent buttresses.
The windows are comparatively small, and their
ornament*
YORKSHIRE.
001
ornaments, with the pillars and nrches, display a
marked difference from those which are seen in any
other part of the building. Betweeji this part and
the western towers arise six small pinnacles, origi-
nally iatended for buttresses to the lower part of the
nave. In the niches are ancient statues, supposed
to represent Christ, the evangelists, and Archbishop
St. William. The south side of the choir presents
a striking appearance. The massy columns, finely
decorated with a variety of figures, and terminating
in richly ornamented pinnacles, the windows large,
and displaying a beautiful tracery, the small tran-
sept of the choir, with its superb light, and the
screen- work before the three farthest windows of
the upper tier, all concur to render this external
part of the structure strikingly beautiful and mag-
nificent.— The north transept and the nave present
a highly interesting spectacle. Here also may be
observed the exterior form and style of architecture
of the chapter-house, of which the windows, but-
tresses, and other decorations, seeip to indicate the
age of its completion to have been nearly the same
as that of the building of the choir. — The interior
of the cathedral is, in every respect,, answerable to
the magnificence of its exterior. The cross aisle
displays a suberb specimen of the style of architec-
ture which prevailed in the latter part of the reign
of Henry III. The circular arch Still appears in
the upper part, inclosing arches of the pointed
form. The pillars which support the larger arches
are of an angular shape, and 'are encompassed by
slender columns a little detached ; and the rich leafy
capitals of all. the columns unite to, form a foliated
wreath round the head of the pillar. The windows
are long, narrow, and pointed, consisting of one
light, or divided into several by unramified mullions,
and variously decorated on the sides by slender free-
stone or marble shafts. Between the upper arches
appear the quatre-feuille and cinque-feuille orna-
ments, afterwards transferred to the windows, and
there forming the first steps towards the beau-
tiful tracery which is displayed in the nave and the
choir. The windows in the south end are arranged
iq three tiers : the uppermost, composed of two
concentric circles of small arches, is particularly
admired : the first window in the second tier ex-
hibits a representation of Archbishop St. William ;
the second consists of two lights, one of which is
decorated with the portrait ot St. Pdtcr, the other
with that of St. Paul, each with his proper insignia.
In the next window appears St. Wilfrid, third arch-
bishop of this see. The four figures of Abraham,
Solomon, Moses, and Peter, which occupy the win-
dows of the lowerinost tier, are of modern workman-
ship, by Mr. William Peckitt, of York.— The north
and south transepts display the same style of archi-
tecture. The windows in the north end are disposed
in two tiers, the lowermost of which consist of one
window of exquisite beauty, divided into five lights,
each about filly feet high and. five in breadth. Imagi-
nation can scarcely conceive a vista of greater mag-
VOL. iv. — NO. 181. l
nificence and beauty than thai which is seen from
the western entrance of the cathedral. " The
screen, which separates the nave from the choir,
rising only just high enough to form a support for
the organ, does not intercept the view of the eastern
end of the church, with its columns, its arches, and
its most superb window. In proceeding from the
western to the eastern end of the cathedral, the pro-
gressive improvements in the architecture are visible,
and the style of the cross aisle may be contrasted
with that of later periods. The pillars and shafts
of the nave are notched, as in the transepts, but
form a part of the columns that support the arches
of the side aisle ; the vaulting of the roof springs
not here from slender pillars rising from flowery
corbels placed above the capitals of the clustered
columns, but upon tall and elegant pillars arising
from the ground and attached to these columns.
Tracery of the richest kind appears in the windows,
especially in that which occupies a large portion of
the western front, and when illumined by the rays
of the declining sun displays a grandeur surpassing
the powers of description. The figures of the first
eight archbishops decorate the lowermost compart-
ment, and above are represented eight saints. Under
this window on each side of the great door is placed
an escutcheon, one bearing the arms of a king of
England, probably Edward the Second, or Edward
the Third, in the beginning of whose reign this part
of the structure was completed ; the other is sup-
posed to be those of the Saxon Prince Ulpluis, one
of the chief benefactors to the church. The upper
windows, though .not so richly decorated as those
below, are elegantly adorned with imagery and
escutcheons. Under these runs an open gallery, in
which, exactly over the point of the arches, for-
merly stood images of the tutelar saints or patrons
of the several nations of Christendom. Most of
these have been destroyed .; but that of St. George
remains, and the resemblance of a dragon protrud-
ing itself from a neighbouring recess, seems to grin
defiance to the sword of the holy champion. — The
screen which separates the nave from the choir is a
most curious piece of workmanship, the history of
which is unknown. It is ornamented with the effigies
of all the monarchs of England, from William I.
and to Henry V. inclusive ; and that of James I.
occupies the place assigned by tradition to Henry VI.
— In the architecture of the choir a variation front
that of the nave is perceptible. The roofing dis-.
plays more tracery; an elegant kind of festoon work
descends from the capitals of the pillars from which
the vaulting springs : through every part is seen a
greater profusion of ornament ; and the whole ex-
hibits a nearer -approach to the highly florid style
which prevailed before the end of the lath century.
The crypt below the altar is a fine imitation of Saxon
architecture, which hud long been disused when this
part of the edifice was founded. The wiudovs of
the, choir shed their richly- varied line through
numerous figurvs of kings, prelates, and saints,
7 N escutcheon*
601
YORKSHIRE.
escutcheons, and representations of sacred story.
Those of the small transepts ore remarkable for
their height anil elegance, reaching almost to the
roof, and divided into 108 compartments, each of
which contains some device suggested hy holy writ.
Hut the eastern window is, perhaps, unrivalled in
• he world -for magnitude, beauty, and magnificence.
The tracery is proportionally large and beautiful ;
and upwards of two hundred compartments are
filled with representations of the Supreme Being,
of monarchs, mitred priests and saints, and of most
of the principal events recorded in the sacred scrip-
tures. The glazing of this stupendous window was
begun at the expense of the dean and chapter, in
the year 1405, by John Thornton, of Coventry, who,
by the contract then made, was to receive four shil-
lings per week for his work, and to finish it within
the space of three years. He was also to have one
hundred shillings per annum besides ; and also ten
pounds more if he did his work well. — In 1804,
the Earl of Carlisle presented to the dean and
chapter a fine .painted window, originally brought
from the church of St. Nicholas, at Rouen. The
subject is the meeting of the Virgin with Elizabeth,
the mother of John the Baptist. The chapter-house
is an octagon of sixty-three feet in diameter, and,
to the centre knot in the roof, sixty-seven feet ten
inches in height. This vast s'paee is not interrupted
by any pillar, the roof being wholly supported by
its ingenious workmanship, which makes it depend
on one single pin, geometrically placed in the centre.
The stalls for the canons, ranged along the sides,
are highly finished in stone, and the curiously
wrought canopies are supported by small and ele-
gant columns of the finest marble. The entrance
from the north transept is in the form of a mason's
square. Every other side of the octagon is adorned
with a window, rich in tracery and figured glass,
rising from the part just above the stalls, and reach-
ing to the roof. An old monkish verse bestows on
it this encomium :
" Ut Rosa flos florum
" Sic e^tdomus isla domorum.*
* As -the rose is the chief of flowers, this house is the chief
of houses.
f Camden particularly mentions this horn as an instance of
a mode of endowment sometimes practised in ancient times,
and cites from an old author the following passage relating to
this curious relic of Saxon antiquity. " Ulphus governed the
western parts of Deira, and by reason of a difference likely to
happen between his eldest and his youngest son, about the
lordship after his death, he presently took this course to make
them equal. Without delay he went to York, ami taking with
him the horn, wherein he was wont to drink, he filled it with
vine, and kneeling be-fore the altar, bestowed upon God and
the blessed St. Peter all his lands and tenements." By this horn
the church of York holds several lands of great value, a little
to the eastward of the city, which are slill called " Terra
Ulphi."
J Most of the volumes were the gift of Mrs. Matthews, the
relict olf Toby Matthews, archbishop, whose son, Sir Toby,
having been disinherited by his father, was probably the reason
In the vestry, amongst several other curiosities,
is a large antique horn, bearing the following in-
scription :
CORNU HOC, DLPHUS, tN OCCIDENTALI P.ARTE
DEIil.« PR1NCEPS ONACUM OMNIBUS TEHR1S
ET REDDIT1BUS SUtS OLIM DONAV1T.
AMISSUM VEL A.BREPTUM
HENERICUS DOM. I Ai'U-AX DEMUM RESTITCIT,
DEC. JET CAPIT. DK NOVO ORNAVIT
A.I>. MDCLXXV.
" This horn Ulphus, a prince in 'he western parts of Deira,
formerly pave, together with all his lands and revenues. When
it had been lost or conveyed away, Henry, Lord Fairfax, re-
stored it. The dean and chapter decorated it anew. A. D.
1675."
Previous to the Reformation, this horn was richly
| adorned with gold, and suspended by a chain of the
j same metal. f — Mr. Sheriff Hornby, of York, not
long since made a valuable addition to these curio-
sities by presenting a large and elegant bowl, origi-
nally a gift of Archbishop Scrope to the company
of Cordwainers, and given by them to Mr. Hornby
as a mark of their esteem. The arms of the com-
pany are richly embossed on the inside of the cup,
and upon the rim is the following inscription :
Srche brfcfcope "Scrope grant unto alt thofc that crinfca
of tl)is cope £tti nagis to pamott. Kobnt tfobfon befcfcopt
iwfm (jtvmt in fame forme afoccfaice =£tii aipis to paruon.
Robert "Strcnsal,
* 'i 5^ *i "*'! j/Jj i'liu i tt
The council room adjoins the ancient treasury,
which before the Reformation contained wealth of
an inestimable value ; but at that period all its
riches were seized and converted to secular uses.
The library was formerly in a room adjoining to the
western side of the south transept ; but it has been
removed to a building which was anciently a chapel
belonging to the archiepiscopal palace.J — The num-
ber of persons of high rank and distinction, whose
mortal
that the mother bestowed her husband's books, to the number
of 3000 volumes, on the church. — Great was the loss of the
learned world when the library placed in the church by Arch-
bishop Egbert, anno 743, was burnt, with the whole fabric,
about 3000 years after. William, the librarian of Malms-
bury, calls it the noblest repository and cab'net of arts and
sciences then in the whole world. Alcainus Eboracencis, the
preceptor of the Emperor Charles the Great, at his return into
Britain, wrote his royal pupil a letter, in which the highest en-
comiums are bestowed on this library. — Thomas, the first arch-
bishop of this see of that name, amongst his other great bene-
factions to his church, is said to hav> replenished the library,
just then destroyed, with good and useful books. These also
underwent the same fate with the fabric, being consumed in the
fire which happened in the citv, anno 1137, in the reign of
King Stephen. — Leland laments the loss of this wonderful col-
lection, when he was sent by Henry VII [. with commission
to search every library in the kingdom. His words are these:
" There is now scarce one book left in the library of St. Peter,
which
YORKSHIRE.
coa
mortal remains are deposited in this ancient temple
is very considerable.*
In addition to the cathedral, York contains twenty-
one parish churches within the walls, and three in
the suburbs, viz. those of St. Olave, St. Mnurice,
and St. Lawrence. — All-Siiints, in North Street,
on the west side of (he Ousc, is a handsome struc-
ture, divided by two rows of pillars into two spaci-
ous aisles : the painted glass in the windows is well
preserved ; and it has a tine spire. The south wall
appears to be very ancient.— St. Mary's, in Castle-
gate, is a nea,t structure, distinguished by its beau-
tiful and lofty spire. — All-lliillows, in the Pave-
ment, belonged, before the Conquest, to the prior
and convent of Durham. Its north side is almost
entirely built out of the ruins of ancient Elioractim.
This churci) stands on the highest ground in the city.
The tower is an exquisite piece of Gothic architec-
ture ; the top is finished in the lantern form ; and
in ancient times a large lamp was there placed, and
lighted in the night, as a mark for travellers in
crossing the vast forest of Galtres, on the north of
the city. The hook on which the lamp used to hang
is yet seen. — St. Dennis's, on the south side of
Walmgatc, is a handsome building, remarkable for
a large blue marble, in the choir, on which are two
effigies and an inscription round it in brass, quite
defaced. I'nd -rthis marble, it is said, lies the body
of an Earl of Northumberland. — St. Margaret's, on
the north side of Walmgaie, is remarkable for its
porch, which is adorned with the signs of the
zodiac, &c.
The ruined abbey of St. Mary's merits great
which Flacciis Albums, otlierwrseeailtd Alc'uinus, has so often
and so greatly extolled for its great number of books, as well
Latin as Greek ; for the barbarity of the Danes, and the ravag-
ing of William Nolhus, have exhausted this treasure, as well as
many others."— We cannot find, after this, that this church was
remarkable for a collection of books, but continued in the same
state in which Leland says he found it, till the great gift of Mrs.
Matthews once more gave it the face of ,i library. The books
are digested i.nto classes, and a faithful catalogue has been made
of them. Thry have since been augmented ;it different times,
and not long since by the bequest of Dean Finch, they received
the addition of the Fffidora Anglicana in seventeen tomes, fcc.
Here are several valuable tracts in divinity and historv ; some
manuscripts, amongst which is aTully dc Inventione, ad Iler-
reniiun, very perfect, and in a most noat character; Bibles and
psalters ; the original register of St. Mary's abbey at York, &c.
Mr. Toi re's laborious collections, from the originalrecords of all
the ecclesiastical affairs relating to this church and diocese ; and !
the- fine collection of the late Rev. Mr. Marmaduke Fothergill.
* The head of Edwin, the first Christian king of Norlhum- |
lierland, was, according to Bede, interred in the cathedral at j
York, and his body in the monastery of Whitby. History also I
records the names of the following personages who were interred :
in this cathedral ; many of whose monuments, however, have |
perished.
A. D.
Bosa, archbishop '. , 680
Eadbert, king of Northumberland 767
Eanbald, king df Northumberland 797
Swcin, king of Denmark, died at Gainsborough, in
Lincolnshire, and was buried at York 1014
Tosti, brother to king Harold, slain at the battle of
Stamford bridge f. 1466
attention. Its site is a fine spot of ground, nearly
square, extending from the present north road,
without Buotham Bur, to the Ouse, and from the
\ walls of the city to Marygate. The circuit is 1^80
yards, or nearly three quarters of a mile. — To the
: north is a spacious piece of rich ground, called
j Almry-garth, where the monks kept their cattle
| that were ready for killing ; and put in such as w:-ic
i given them by pious donations. In this ground,
j which was all walled in, except on the side next the
river, were the abbot's fish ponds, the traces of
which are yet visible. — It is supposed, that before
the Conquest, there was a monastery on or near. the
site of this abbey. Ingulphus says, that Siw,.rd,
i the valient Earl of Northumberland, was its founder.
! Siward was a Dane, or of Danish extraction ; and
the monastery was then dedicated to St. Olave, the
Danish king and martyr. The parish church, ad-
: joining to the abbey, still retains the name of its
patron, St. Olave. — The monastery of St. Mary
{ was founded by William Ilui'us Being totally
! destroyed in the conflagration which happened in
: the reign of Stephen, it was, in 1270, begun to
! be rebuilt under the direction of Simon de Warwick,
: then abbot, who, in twenty-two years, lived to
] see it finished, This is the fabric of which we see at
! this day the venerable ruins. At the Dissolution, in
I the reign of Henry VIII. its annual revenues were
computed at 2085/. Is. 5£d. The privileges of this
monastery were as remarkable as its wealth. The
abbot had the honour to be mitred, and had a seat
in parliament, with the title of lord abbot ; and when
the barons of Yorkshire, were summoned to the
A. D,
Aldred, archbishop 1069
Thomas, archbishop 11 08
Thomas the Second, archbishop 1114
Henry Murdac, archbishop 1153
St. \Villiam, archbishop 1154
Roger, archbishop 1181
Waiter Grey, archbishop •••••v,- 1255
Sewal, archbishop 1JJ8
Godfrey de Kinton, archbishop 1264
William Langton, dean .' 1279
Walter Gifford, archbishop 1279
John le Romain, archbishop 1295
Henry Newick, archbishop 1299
William Greenfield 1315
W'illiam de Hatlield, second son of King Edward
the Third, so called from being born at Hatrkld,
near Doncaster 1344
William de Melton, archbishop „.. 1340
William de la Zouch, archbishop 1332
John Thoresby, archbishop 1353
Richard Scrope, archbishop 1405
Also Thomas Mow bray, Diikeot Norfolk, and Sir
. J. Lamplugh, both o't them beheaded at the same
time for their loyaky to the house ot York
Henry Bowet, archbishop 1423
George Neville, archbishop 1476
Thomas' de Rolherbam, archbishop '. 1500
Thomas Savage, archbishop 1507
Edward Lee, archbishop ... 1544
To these may be added all the archbishops, except five or six
who have presided over this sue since the Reformation.
war
604
YORKSHIRE.
wars, he sent a man to bear the standard of St.
Mary in the king's army. At the dissolution, this
abbey, with all its revenues, tell to the crown, and
Henry V11.I. ordered a palace to be built out of its
ruins, and called the king's manor. After the revo-
lution, in 1688, Robert Waller, Esq. sometime lord
mayor and representative in parliament for the city
of York, procured a lease of the abbey or manor
for thirty-one years from the crown, which, when
expired, was obtained again for Tailored Robinson,
Esq. second son to, Sir William Robinson, Bart.
in whose family it continues.
The city of York, as it now stands, is nearly two
miles and three quarters in circuit. — The entrances
•are by four principal gates or bars, and five posterns.
The gates are : Micklegate Bar, to the south-west,
•of the entrance from Taclcaster ; Bootham Bar on the
north-west, on the road lesrling to Newcastle and
Edinburgh ; Monk Bar, the entrance from Malton
and Scarborough; and Walmgate Bar, on the south-
east, the road to Beverley and Hull. The posterns
are North Street postern, Skeldergate postern,
'Castlega^e postern, Fishergate postern, Laythorp
postern, and Longwalk postern. There are also
•six bridges; viz. Ouse bridge ; Castlegate bridge,
-of one arch ; Foss bridge, of two arches 3 Laythorp
bridge, of five arches ; Monk bridge, of three arches ;
and the new bridge, in the Long walk, of one arch.
•Of all these, the first alone is over the Ouse : all the
others are over the Foss. Monk bridge is in the
•suburbs, at the distance of nearly a quarter of a [
mile from the bar and the walls of the city. — The
<>ld Ouse bridge, which consisted of five arches, the
middlemost of which was 81 feet in the span, and
17 feet high, was lately taken down, and a fine new
structure erected close by the ancient site. ' In the
spring of 1815, the magistrates of the three ridings
came to an agreement with the city of York, that
30,OtM)/. should he advanced, out of the county rates,
for finishing the new bridge ; with this especial
proviso, " that it should be wisely and carefully
-expended."— It is difficult to ascertain the period in
•which the present walls of York were built. The
city was strongly fortified in the times of the Saxon
and Danish, as well as of the Roman government.
It is probable that the walls were rebuilt in the
reign of Edward I ; and, in the reign of Edward III.
a mandate was issued for repairing the fortifications
of this- city. — After the siege of York, in 161J, the
walls stood in great need of repairs ; the three fol-
lowing years were employed in that work ; and,
previously to the close of the century, some further
repairs were effected.
Micklegate Bar, tl»e most magnificent of the four
great gates, is adorned with lofty turrets, and finely
rembattied : over the Roman arch, hangs a large
shield, bearing the arms of England and France, j
painted and gilt; and on each side one of a, less '
siee, decorated with the arms of the city. — Bootham
Bar, a very ancient structure, is built almost wholly
of grit. Its materials are Roman ; but the archi-
tecture is gothir. In 1719, the inside of the gate
was rebuilt. — Monk Bar is a handsome old gate :
the arms of France are quartered with those of
England on the battlements. Walmgate Bar, built
in the same manner as the others, underwent a
thorough repair, in 1048.
The city is divided into four districts, or wards:
Micklegate-ward, Bootham- ward, Monk-ward, and
Walmgate-ward. — Micklegate-ward, in the south-
west part of the city, encompassed on one side by
the city walls, and on the other by the river Ouse,
contains the six parishes of Bishophill, the elder
and younger, Trinity, St. Martin's, St. John's, and
All-Saints. — Bootham-ward, occupying the north-
west angle of the city, -comprises the three parishes
of Belfrey's, St. Helen's, and St. Martin's.— Monk-
ward, i T) h(north-ea«t part of the city, comprises
the five parishes of Trinity, St. Cuthbert's, St.
Saviour's, Christ's, and St. Sampson's — Walmgate-
ward, on the south-east, contains- the seven parishes
of St. Margaret's. St. Dennis, St. George, Cruz,
All-Hallow's, St. Mary's, and St. Michael's.— On
entering the city by Micklegate Bar, is an ancient
gateway on the right side of the street. This was
the portal to the priory of the Holy Trinity, which
occupied, within its precincts, a large extent -of
ground, now called Trinity Gardens. 'Behind these
gardens, almost close to the -walls of the city, is
the " Vetus Ballium," or Old Baile, a word which
appears to be of Norman etymology, implying a
prison or place of security. William the Conqueror
is said to have built two castles at York ; but it is
more probable that he only repaired one,' or per-
haps both ; and Leland and Camden are of opinion,
that the Old Baile is the site of an ancient castle.
The mount, which forms the area of this ruined
castle, exactly corresponds with Clifford's Tower
on the opposite side of the Ouse, and commands a
finer prospect than any other place about the city.
York Castle, now the county gaol, stands at the
distance of about 200 yards from the eastern bank
of the Ouse, and close to the Foss; which being
brought round it in a deep mote -or ditch, renders it
inaccessible, except from the city, on the north.
Before the Norman conquest, York had a castle,
supposed to have been the Old Baile, on the oppo-
site side of the Ouse. The castle oir the present
site, is thought to have been built by William the
Conqueror, hut probably on a Roman foundation.
It was repaired, or rebuilt, in the reign of Richard
III. It was subsequently converted into a county
prison ; but, having fallen into a ruinous state, it
was taken down in 1701, and the present superb
structure was erected ; the expence being defrayed
by a tax of three-pence per pound rent on all lands
&c. in the county. The prison for debtors is scarce-
ly any where equalled : an ascent by a fine flight oi
stone steps leads to a floor on which are clever
rooms, each sixteen feet square, and near twelvi
feet high ; above these is the same number of rooms
and all of them are airy and healthy. On the gronnc
. floo
YORKSHIRE.
G05
floor arc the gaoler's apartments. In the left wing
is an elegant chapel. The court-yard for the felons
is down five steps, between the two wings : the day
room for men is twenty-six feet by eight : the cells
are fifteen in number, each about seven feet and a
halt' by six and a half, and about eight feet and a
half high. There are four condemned rooms, about
seven feet square. The women-felons being kept
separate, have two court yards : the descent to
their two rooms, a day and a night room, is by four
steps : their condemned room is in another part of
the building, and near it is a room to confine dis-
orderly debtors. — The Bnsilica, or New County
Hall, built at the expence of the county, was opened
at the summer assizes, in 1777. It is a superb
structure of the Ionic order, one hundred and fifty
feet in length, and forty -five feet in breadth. In the
south end is the court for the trial of felons : in the
north end is the court of Nisi Prius ; each of these is
thirty feet in diameter, and crowned with a dome
forty feet high, supported by twelve Corinthian co-
lumns. Adjoining to these, are proper rooms for
the grand and petty juries, and other requisite
apartments. The entrance into this building is by
a loggio of six columns, thirty feet in height, over
•which are placed the king's arms, an elegant statue
of Justice, and other emblematical figures. The
•walls of the castle are about 1100 yards in circuit,
and it has a well of excellent watgr. — Adjoining to
the castle is a high mount, and surrounded with a
deep ditch. On the summit stands an ancient tower
of a circular form, called Clifford's Tower ; and,
according to tradition, one of that family was its
first governor, after it was built by the Norman
Conqueror, for the purpose of overawing the city
and country. It continued to be used as a fortress,
till the year 1684 ; when, on the festival of St.
George, about ten in the evening, the magazine
took fire and blew up, and the tower was reduced
to a shell, as it remains at this day. Whether this
happened accidentally, or by design, is unknown ;
but the officers and soldiers of the garrison had
previously removed their effects, and not a single
man perished by the explosion. — Within the tower,
is a well of excellent water : here was also a
dungeon so dark, as not to admit the least rny of
light.
The Mansion House, for the residence of the.
lord-mayor, is commodious and elegant ; as is the
Guildhall, which has, within these few years, un-
dergone some repairs and improvements. The city,
in general, is well built, although some mean habi-
tations may be seen towards the out-skirts.
The city of York supports various charitable in-
stitutions ; amongst which may be particularly
mentioned the Lunatic Asylum, a handsome struc
ture, extending in length 132 feet, in depth 52, and
in height consisting of three stories ; the lowest a
rustic, from which columns are carried up to the
gen. rai entablature, and sustain a pediment in the
centre of the front. The ends of the front are
VOL. iv. — NO. 184.
finished as pavilions, and have a proporlion equal
to that of the columns. Over the centre of the
building, rises an elegant cylindrical hell tower,
surrounded with columns, and finished viih a small
cupola and vane. The internal plan is simple and
convenient, consisting only of a corridor, extending
from one end to the other of the building ; having
on each side, on the two upper floors, rooms very
commcdiously and securely finished for the reception
of lunatics ; and on the lower floor besides similar
rooms, a committee room, and apartments for the
physician and apothecary. — This Asylum, which was
established in 1777, by general subscription, has fof
its general object the cure and relief of insane per-
sons in low and narrow cireumstnnces. The pa-
tients, or their friends, pay a weekly sum suitable
to their ability; by which means the indigent are
relieved at the expence of the affluent. — The County
Hospital, instituted in 1740, with the assistance of
a legacy of 500/. bequeathed by Lady Elizabeth
Hastings, has been since raised and supported by
benefactions and annual contributions. It is an
extensive building, in front 75 feet in Jt-ngth, and
90 feet in depth, inclosing a court of 20 feet four
inches by 35 feet. The whole consists of three
floors ; the first of which is appropriated to the
offices necessary to the hospital ; the second is di-
vided into two large wards, one for male, and the
other for female patients, each containing seventeen
beds, and to these are annexed bed rooms for the
respective nurses. The third floor consists of two
wards, one for men, the other for women, each
containing twelve beds, and accommodations as be-
fore mentioned for the nurses, with a theatre, lighted
from above, for surgical operations. — In 1788 the
gentlemen of the faculty resident in York, came to
the resolution of establishing a public Dispensary in
this city, which has since been supported by the
annual contributions of the wealthy part of the in-
habitants.— Here are two charity schools, in one
of which 75 boys, and in the other 40 girls, sira
taught reading, writing, and accounts, and after-
wards apprenticed.
The foreign commerce of this city, has long been
annihilated ; but it has still a considerable river trade,
and vessels of 120 tons burden can come up the
Onse as far as the bridge. Nothing that can he-
called a manufacture is now carried on in York ;.
but here is a considerable trade carried on in glove*
and drugs, as well as in printing and bookselling,,
and some other branches of business. York is, at
this day, chiefly supported by its numerous and
well-frequented fairs, the assizes for the county,
the races, and the resilience of many of the gentry. —
The diversions carried on during the winter, con-
tribute to draw company to York, and render it a
sort of northern metropolis. The theatre is well
attended, and always supplied with good actors ;
formerly under the arrangement of Tale Wilkinson,
and more recently, under that of Mr. Fitzgerald,
formerly of the Norwich company. The magnificent
7 o assembly
006
YORKSHIRE.
assembly-rooms, erected in (he last century, and
designed by the Earl of Burlington, are an honour
to (he city and the architectural taste of that noble-
man. The grand room, is an antique Egyptian
Hall from Palladio, 112 feet in length, forty feet
in breadth, and forty in height. This room consists
of two orders : the lower part with forty-four co-
lumns and capitals, and a beautiful cornice, displays
the Corinthian order : the upper part is after the
composite, richly adorned with festoons, resembling
oak leaves and acorns, with a superb cornice, cu-
riously ornamented with carved work. From the
top of this room, descend thirteen lustres of crown
glass, each carrying eighteen candles. In the
centre, is a lustre most curiously carved, the gift of
the Earl of Burlington. The entrance is at the eist
end : and, on the right, is the common assembly-
room, sixty-six feet in length, twenty-two feet in
width, and twenty-two in height. The ceiling is
adorned with a curious fret-work. At the end of this
room is an entrance into another, which is a cube of
twenty-one feet, and serves as a tea-room for the
ladies. At the other end, eastward, near the grand
entrance, is a circular room, of twenty-one feet in
diameter, and crowned with a cupola, forty-five feet
in height ; this is designed for the gentlemen's ga-
ming-ruom. On the left hand is a room, forty-three
feet in length, fifteen feet in breadth, and fifteen in
height, designed for the grand tea-room, beyond
which are closets, drawing-rooms, &c. ; near it is
also a spring of excellent water. The vestibule is
thirty-two feet long, twenty-one broad, and twenty-
one high. On the right and left are preparative
rooms, each twenty-two feet long, and eighteen in
breadth. The front is adorned with a portico, sup-
ported by" columns of stone. These rooms are
generally well attended ; and during the race week
in particular, when lour or five hundred of botli
sexes, and of the best families in the kingdom,
meet together, they display such an assemblage of
elegance and beauty as few places in Europe can
equal.
York is governed by a corporation, consisting of
the lord-mayor and aldermen, a recorder, two
sheriffs, a privy council, called the council of twenty-
four, though the number may be more or less, and
the common council of the city, which consists of
seventy-two members. There are also six chamber-
lains, a city steward, a town clerk, a sword-bearer,
a mace-bearer, three coroners, a prothonotary, four
attornies of the sheriffs's court, a city surgeon, &c.
— The office of Lord Mayor of York is a place of
great honour and trust : if he uses his power in its
full extent, he is nearly an absolute governor within
his district. He is the king's lieutenant in his ab-
sence, and does not give place or resign the ensigns
of his authority to any one but the king himself, or
the presumptive heir to the crown ; and he carries
the mace before his majesty whenever he visits
York.
Amongst the distinguished persons, who drew
their first breath in this city, were the following :—
Flaccus Albinus, who imbibed the rudiments of
learning under the venerable Bede, and completed
his education under Archbishop Egbert, who ap-
pointed him to superintend his celebrated library.
Of all the literati whom the munificence of Charle-
magne drew to his court, he was the most highly
distinguished. — Waltheof, Earl of Northumberland,
the son of the valiant Earl Siward, is famous in
English history by his defence of York against the
Norman Conqueror, to whose policy he at last fell
a sacrifice.— Sir Thomas Herbert, a celebrated tra-
veller, the son of Christopher Herbert, and grand -
son of Thomas Herbert, merchant, and alderman
of York. Charles II. created him a baronet.—
Marmaduke Fothergill, born in 1652. He was re-
markable for his learning and piety, and in ecclesi-
astical antiquities no man had a more extensive
knowledge. He died in 1731. ; and his library,
given by his widow, makes a valuable addition to
that of the cathedral.
Of the few places entitled to notice, in the Ainsty
of York, Bishopthorpe, anciently St. Andrew's-
thorpe, or Thorpe upon Ouse, though only a small
village, may be mentioned, containing the palace
of the Archbishops of York. The manor was pur-
chased of divers foeflbrs by Archbishop Walter de
Grey, by whom the palace was built ; and the chapel
is still seen where his chantry was founded. The
house has had several reparations by succeeding
archbishops. In 1766, the addition to the palace
was begun, consisting of a servants'-hall, butler's
pantry, large drawing-room, vestibule, and audience-
room : the drawing-room and vestibule are finished
with great taste, in the Gothic, or rather Anglo-
Normanic style of architecture. Those rooms with
the elegant front and portico were finished in 1769,
under the direction of Mr. Thomas Atkinson, of
York. In the drawing-room is a well-finished chim-
ney-piece of statuary and Sienna marble. In the
best dining-room is also a grand Doric-columned
chimney-piece. The kitchen-garden, pleasure-
grounds, &c. were completed in 1767. Archbishop
Druinmond also embellished the chapel, by adding
windows of stained glass, the work of Mr. Pecket,
of York. He likewise took down and rebuilt the
parish church, in an elegant manner, in 1766, and
adorned it with a curious window, from Cawood
Castle.
In the conventual church of Nun-Appleton, so
called from a priory of nuns founded here by Adeliza
de St. Quintin, was a chantry, of which the convent
had the patronage. Thomas, Lord Fairfax, built
here a handsome house, which was afterwards pur-
chased from that family by Mr. Milner, whose grand-
son, Sir William Mordaunt Milner now holds it.
At Bolton Percy, King Edward the first granted
license to Robert de Percy to embattle his ma.nsion-
house. The parish church, one of the neatest in
this part of the country, was built by Thomas Par-
ker, who died rector of it in 1123.
TABLE
YORKSHIRE.
rd,
TY OF YORK
ACE TO PLACE J th
last column,
COUN
si
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rPIKE, AND C
ES OF PLACES ; tr
:he fourth, NAME:
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L fo BRIDLINGTON.
Hull Bank, John Brooke, E
ns. — Beverley Arms, Tiger,
n.— Roebuck.
Etton, Lady I.epard, II. G
— Kilnwick, Thomas Grimst
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INGTON to WHITBV.
n. — Scarborough Castle.
HunmanbjHall, H. Osbaldi
ns.— Blacksmiths' Arms, Blu
Globe, Pied Bull, Red Lion
Hackness, Sir R. V. B. John
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TABU
YORKSHIRE,
Oil
TABLE OF DISTANCES
In the North and East Ridings of .Yorkshire.
The ffamts of tlic respective Tamils arc on the top and side, find the square where both meet gives the Distiuict.
>ik
/
tixtuiice fro
59 Axkrigg
. 047
Bvclale
32
30
20
Beda
e
2S42
89
69iBeverIe
y. .
183
1
60
18
3690
i
73^26
I
Bow
s..
248
43
93
85
Brkllinglo
„ . 209
40
25
765
t
91
63 Catlcric
k
229
Crrat DnfTielcl
3D
84
40
60
T3
72
1452
Great Dnffield
195
14
20.40
47
47
27
2S|Easingwoulc
<>08
51
60
106
41
77
98
47
40J7.1
49
5045
I
58
38
Gisborough
, 224
2,2.
8610
OS
35;S7
21 &f
79
Headc
178
21 40
41
4423
27
14
25
48
Helinsle
y... 218
18
57^22
78
4858
?5
31
69
33
O
40
Howdon
iso
78 . 9J99
a*
-;353
so
25
U.
ill ' 170
L'o
27,3847
39(29
28
16
24
49
<
*;,
SlIKi
IS
77
57
28
:>7
9
78
36'58
1.6
31
68J
IS
36
12
1 6 33
i
Market Weialiton . .. 214
18
-7
28
5.;
^9
39
18
19
39
38
K,
37
36
15
°5| Vcw M'altun . 212
North Allerton
3.'
57
iia
4'.'
22
.a
n
Jj
,6
jo3y
2o'es
(il
13 50C2
18
50 ?g Nortli Allerton 223
tlti
j?
7S
459731
71 '89
1
1C)
58143,18
li
34 U !71 Patriii-ton....... 1$8
18
is
S4
li
70
7
71
-.',
55 4C?
101
36
?a
93
\ '
is
72 ••," 16111 Hicliinond 2^1
78
52
37
82
58
34
.(
21
5.3
23
4440
44 30J56 43
26
41 21 42 5" i)0 Scarbrou-'li 214
32
63
;i
u
37
50
30
9
71
20
61
•72
16
6>)30'8 81 J4 41 Slokesley 2'.jt»
Tlrirsk
13
52
3S
31
18
.;<<
1029
69)4
40,61
K
iO '7 6 79 5lU<?''OTIiir^k 2TJ8
Wlmby .
S3
tie
30
7-f
39 64!47
ttj**
62
3il
7(
94
583318 72 (H 1826 \l Wliitby '24k'
Variun
is
5l)l3o;7l|39
55J35
53
33|14
7S246SI79
..5CKI7 »8*sl5.1 btff, J6l.Yar.im 238
TABLE
YORKSHIRE,
'f':r .
TABLE OF DISTANCES
In the West Riding of Yorkshire.
The Names of the respective Towns are on the top and side, and the square where both meet, glues ihe distance.
lAbeiton
| _
Distant Jrom London Miles IRti1
30
Jarnsley
174
J3
22 Bawtr
152
20
3953
Boroughbridg
206
id
^48
|
24
Bradforc
196
Zi
15
94439|Doncast
162
Hal,fax
31
244632
1 i
s'seiHalif;
196
Huddersfield
27
ie'3836
ie|3i 7
Hudclerslit
Id....
187
9
3442
'IV
16,3334
30
Harrowgat
211
/
3643
7
183435
32
3
Knaresbrough
199
12
19 41 20
1032 19
B
15
20 Leed
193
14
14
2327
261525
!
24
22
2317
Pontefrc
ct 177
17
id
53| 6
25 44 46
32
12
102/'33
Ripo
n 223
34
[3
1552421237
29
47 52!32
.1
20
59:R(
1
itherham t 159
Settle
&
ol
S6;36
30,7737
4;,
34364562
32J74
Settle 233
Selbv
12
3(
25
26
28! 16 36
:,:>
IS
1920
11
29
28
65 Selby 178
Sheffield
u
14
20
56431834
2()
52
563633
C3
6
71 34 Sheffield 162
28
45
7C
26i206! 21
1 l.
'-'!)
iy
21 2946
<y
58
16 49 55 Skipton... 220
9<i
28
.',•
44
11 1539
3(j
33
3131
14
41
27
76 8 3360Snaith 171
31
e
12
50
3S: 933
'.'7
38 39 28
17
55
5
7024 1054 2'' Swinton 163
2725
1!)
47
42' 1 042
il
36
3433
18
4424
77 1 j 31 61 7 l9Thorne 170
'.'0 10
%
39
1920 16
15
27
32;12
9
3922
5 4 SO 2438 23 1724 WakefieUI.... 185
York.... |l5!4l
46| 1613237 41
4<»
2u
13.222423
51
49I457452048|30 24|York 159
CAMBRIA ;
CAMBRIA ;
OR,
THE PRINCIPALITY OF WALES,
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
iniTTALES is a peninsula : it is bounded on three
V y sides by the Irish Sea, and the broad aestuary
of the Severn. On the fourth, its limits are the
counties of Monmouth, Hereford, Salop, and Ches-
ter. Viewed geographically, it forms a limb or ap-
pendage to the western side of England. Its dimen-
sions are 155 miles in mean longitude, by a breadth
of sixty-five ; and its computed area stands at 8125
miles, or 5,200,000 acres. Of this, somewhat less
than one half is pasture ; while not more than
900,000 acres are subject to the plough : the re-
mainder equal to 1,700,000 acres, is accounted waste.
The artificial divisions are counties ; of which six,
viz. Anglesey, Carnarvon, Denbigh, Flint, Mont-
gomery, and Merioneth, are distinctively called
North Wales ; while the other six, viz. Cardigan,
Radnor, Brecknock, Glamorgan, Carmarthen, and
Pembroke, have the collective appellation of South
Wales. The subdivisions of each county are, as in
the time of Llewelyn, cantrefs, or hundreds, and
comots, or smaller districts. For the administration
of justice, Wales is divided into four circuits : the
Chester, including Chester, Flint, Denbigh, and
Montgomery ; the northern, for Anglesey, Carnar-
TOII and Merioneth ; tlie south-eastern, for Radnor,
Brecknock, and Glamorgan ; and the south-western,
for Cardigan, Carmarthen, and Pembroke. The
whole principality contains fii'ty-eiglit market towns, j
772 parishes, and fifty-six parts of parishes. The
number of petty sessions is seventy-five ; and
that of acting county magistrates 398. The natural
features of Wales are ranges of lofty .mountains,
small but fertile vallies, rapid rivers, and numerous
lakes. The climate of those counties which border
the sea is humid ; that of the interior has the usual
sharpness of other elevated districts.
MOUNTAINS.] — The mountains-of Wales are ranged
VOL. iv. — NO. 185.
in chains from south-cast to north-west; and uav«
their most abrupt declivity on the latter bearing.
Of these ranges the principal is the Snowdonian,
which commences at the south-western extremity
of Carnarvonshire, and stretches in a north-east-
erly direction, to the bay of Conway ; including
some of the loftiest mountains in Wales, among
which is the majestic Snowdon. The next is the-
Ferwyn chain, which occupies the eastern part
of Merionethshire, penetrates Denbighshire, and
branches into Montgomeryshire to meet the Breddin,
or Shropshire chain. Another ridge lies between
Pennant, in Montgomeryshire, and the coast at
Llangyllivin, in Merionethshire ; and displays se-
veral lofty peaks : as Arran-ben-llyn, Arran-fowddy,
and the triple head of Cadair Idrie Plinliramon
is part of a range of table land Irom Llanvair to
Aberystwith, in which the Carno mountains also
rise pre-eminent. In South Wales, an extensive
chain stretches from Bleddva forest, in Radnor,
across Brecon and Carmarthen, to the towering
Presceleu in Pembroke ; and the Fothoc hills, better
known as the Black mountains, beginning in Brecon,,
terminate at the Penbre hill in south Carmarthen.
RIVERS, LAKES, SPRINGS, &c.] — Wale^, though
a mountainous country, is distinguished for its nu-
merous rivers, many of which either are navigable,
or might be made so, at a small expence. The
principal are the Dee, The Wye, the Usk, the
Conway, the Clwydd, and the Towy.— The Dee,
formed by the junction of two streamlets, near
Llanwychllyn, in Merionethshire, forms the lake,
Pirablc-meer, flows past the town of Bala, and
waters the beautiful vales of Indention, Glyndwr—
dwy, and Llangollen, where it receives the Bran.
It then passes northward, and is joined by the
Ceiriog ; and, entering Cheshire, passes Holt and
7 a Chester •
614
WALES.
Chester ; where it becomes an expansive sestuary
of the Irish channel. The Wye, as celebrated for
its devious course, as for the delightful scenes which
it contributes to embellish, rises on the south side
of Plinlimmon, in Cardiganshire; and, running'
south-eastward, becomes the boundary of Radnor
and Brecon. In its course, it receives the tribute
of many inferior streams ; and, after passing the
counties of Hereford, Gloucester, and Moumouth,
it becomes in turn tributary to the Severn at Chep-
stow. The Usk, so called from the British word
Wysk, water, rises at the foot of the Black mountain,
flows to Brecknock, receives several considerable
streams ; and after passing Usk, Caerleon, and
Newport, falls into the Severn. The Conway, which
issues from Llyn Conway, where the three counties
of Denbigh, Merioneth, and Carnarvon, meet, is dis-
tinguished for its numerous cataracts, and for be-
coming navigable within four miles of its source.
After a course of less than fifteen miles, it fulls into
the Irish sea at Aberconway. The Clvvydd rises in
a small lake near Ruthin in Denbighshire, passes
that town and St. Asaph, where it is joined by the
Elwy, and falls into the Irish sea, three miles below
Rhyddlan Castle. The Tivy, a stream much ad-
mired for its rapidity, and romantic falls, rises near
Tredr-agon, bounds Carmarthen and Pembroke,
and enters the sea near Cardigan. The Towey,
almost no less admired for the fine scenery on its
banks, issues from a lake near Cwm Berwyn, in
Cardiganshire, passes Llanf'^very, Llandilo, and
Carmarthen, and meets the sea at Llanstephan
Castle. Other streams of minor importance, though
often of greater, and always of equal, beauty, are
the Ogwen, the Seiont, and the Gwynedd, in Car-
narvonshire , the Drwydd, the Avonmawr, and the
Dyffi in Merionethshire ; the Rheidiol, the Ystwith,
and the Eiron, in Cardiganshire ; the Nevern, the
Gwynn, the Cletldy, and the Hiog in Pembroke-
shire ; the Tai**, L» Carmarthenshire ; and the
Loughor, the Tawy, the Nedd, the Avon, the Og-
vnore, the Taf, and the Rhymny, rivers of Glamor-
ganshire.— To particularize the lakes of this roman-
tic country, would be an endless task : above sixty
may be reckoned in Carnarvonshire alone. The
most distinguished for extent and beauty, are Lly-
niau Nantle, Llyn Cywellin, Llyniau Llanberris,
and Llyn Conway, with Pimble meer and Tal-y-Uyn
in North Wales ; and in South Wales Llyn, Bychlyn,
and Llyn Savatlian. — The Severn which flows from
a strong chalybeate spring on the east side of Plin-
limmon Hill, though a river of Wales, does not
attain any considerable degree of magnitude within
its limits.
MINERALS, FOSSILS, &c.] — The mineral produc-
tions of Wales are extremely numerous : consisting
of most of the useful metals, except gold ; many va-
rieties of the useful article coal ; and abundance of
the lapideous substances, most in request for archi-
tectural purposes. The mountains, in which these
treasures are contained, are of three kinds : the
primitive, composed of steep rocks of granite ; the
secondary, mostly formed of schistose substances, •
and less abrupt than the former ; and the derivative,
or calcareous and silicious hills, which are of much
smaller elevation than both the other kinds. The
primitive mountains in mass contain no metals. The
strata, most productive of the ores, are limestone;
next, whinstone ; and lastly, granite. Silver is
found in considerable quantities, among lead ore
and quartz at Cumsymlog mine in Cardiganshire;
and at Llanvair, where about sixty or eighty ounces
of silver are extracted from a ton of ore, and twelve
hundred and a half of lead. The principal copper
mines are the Parys mountain, in Anglesey, which
consists wholly of that useful metal ; at Llanberris,
in Carnarvonshire, where it exists in quartz or
horn-stonerocks ; and at Escair-vraith, in Cardigan-
shire, whereit is found with spar, quartz, and gozin,
a substance which envelopes the quartz. — Lead is
found in many places throughout Wales ; and, par-
ticularly, in the counties of Flint, Carnarvon,
Montgomery, Carmarthen, and Cardigan ; espe-
cially the last, which may be looked upon as the
richest and most extensive field, for mining, in Britain.
Here, for a vast extent, the terra flrma is excava-
ted, and its surface marked with the openings of
mines ; the ore from which consists chiefly of lead,
mixed with quartz and spar, and small portions of
zinc. — Though the mountains of Wales are now
known to abound with iron, it was not till fifty or
sixty years ago, that the public attention was di-
rected to this valuable source of wealth. Several
kinds have been discovereil ; and it is remarked that
it is most plentiful in South Wales, though
evident marks of its existence are observable in
North Wales. The principal works are at Merthyr
Tyufil, Aberdare, andCyfarthva, in Glamorganshire ;
and the Union, Llanelly Beaufort, and Hirwin works,
in Brecon. — As might, from the presence of iron, be
expected, coal is found plentifully in all the Welsh
counties, except those of Cardigan, Merioneth, and
Carnarvon : indeed, so abundant is that mineral, in
the four southern counties, that it is necessary only
to sink in certain directions to be assured of success.
It is found mostly in the vicinity of limestone : and
in South Wales, two calcareous itrata, which extend
from St. George's Channel across the whole country,
areuniformly accompanied by twosimilar lines of coal.
It exists in Wales, in all its varieties ; among which
cannel and culm, are the most remarkable : the
former being hard, light, and susceptible of a fine
polish ; and the other producing neither smoke nor
flame in burning, possessing but little of the cohering
quality, and retaining no pyritous marks after ex-
posure to fire. — Another substance of general utility
is produced in the schistose mountains of the Prin-
cipality. The slate, used in building, and for writing,
is found in large quantities in the counties of Car-
digan, Montgomery, and Carnarvon, especially in
the latter, where it is of the finest grain. Quarries
of other valuable stones are wrought in various
places :
WALES.
6 1:3
places, marble, proper for imnutearcl>itrc(iir;<V deco-
rations, hone-stone, chert or petrosilex, pine quartz,
nnd the rare and curious substance which yields the'
asbestos, famed for its indestructibility by fire.
PLANTS.] — In vegetable productions, nature has
been peculiarly bountiful to this province of our .
island. A few of the most curious or important !
are enumerated in a note below.*
ANIMAL PRODUCTIONS.] — Some animals, rnrely to
* Rare Plants, found in North Wales.
ANGLESEY.
Anth'jllisvulneraria. ft. A variety of Kidney V'etcl), or Ladies'
Finger; in chalky, and lime stone meadows and
pastures.
Asplenium mariitfim. Dwarf Sea Fern ; on the rocks opposite
Puffin island and ai Llandwyn.
Brassicamonensis. Yellow rocket. 1 On the sandy
Bunias Cakile. Sea Kocket. > shore, near A b-
Cliiernnt/mssiniatus, Sea Stock-gilly flower. ) crmenai ferry.
Cistus guttatus. Annual Cistus ; on sandy meadows, at Uoly-
liead.
Cochlearia Danica. Danish Scurvy grass ; on the sea-shore
near Llanbadrig church.
Conferva, atriginostt, atra, faniculata, polymorpha, rupestris,
scoparia, et spongiosa. Various kinds of Con-
ferva ; mostly among fuci and on sub-marine
rocks and stones.
Fucus, alaius, pinnatifidus, digitatus, spiralis, vesiculosus y
divaricatus. Fucuses ; on marine rocks.
Hypcricum montanum; on Burcld Arthur.
Inula crithmoides. Golden Samphire ; at Llandwyn.
Lichen crassus. Thick Lichen ; on rocks near Newborough.
vulpinus. Gold Liverwort, on trees and heaths.
Melica ccerulea. Purple Mclic Grass ; 011 Mount Parys.
Ulvajlavescens. Yellowish Laver. > On marine rocks
— — Pa-conia. Turkey -feat her. J and stones.
CARNARVONSHIRE.
Asrostis capillaris. Fine Bent Grass ; > n , o. -_j.._
Aim cetpifosa. Turfy Hair Grass ; $ On Snowdo"-
Asplenium Tric/iomanes. fi Branched English Black Maiden-
hair ; about Snowdon, plentifully.
Bfyum, alpinum, uciculare, ttitivum, extinctoriui>i,jlexuosum,
incurvum, aericium,fontdnum, hypuoides,po-
mifprmc, serpicyllifolium punctutum, serpylli-
fotiitm £ unduUitum, et •certiciltatum. va*
rious kinds of Bryum ; near Llanberris.
Cochlearia ojjicinalis. /3 Small round-leaved Scurvy ~\
Grass ; f on the
• • ojficinalis y Grnenlandica. Greenland (* coast.
Scurvy Grass ;
Ft'stuca Cambrica. Welsh Fescue-Grass; about Llanberris.
Jungcrmannia alpina, julacea, rupestris, et trilobata. Kinds
of Jungermannia; on Snow don, Glyder, and
Crib y ddiscil.
Lichen calcareus, coerulescens, caninus y, fuscus, lanatus,
crassus, centrifvgus, deustits, jragilis, po-
ltfrrhhos,probofcideus, aaccatus, scuber, vcl-
leus, furfuraceus, fragitls ft globosus, jiuvia-
tiiis paschalis, rudiatus, hlandicus J, margi-
iialis, ompludoides, puriciinus, et tartareus,
Various Lichens : on rocks, heaths, and trunks
of trees.
Lycopodium alpinum, Selago, Selagtnoides, annotinum, inun-
datum. Klosses on Snow don, and other moun-
tains.
Polypodium fragile $, Lonclutis, rhccticum. Various kinds
ot" Polypody ; on Snowdon and about Llan-
berris.
Saxifrago hypnoides, oppositifolia, nivalis, stellaris. On
Snowdon and near Llanberris.
be met with, still frequent the wilds of this diversi-
fied country. The goat is here found, in his ferine
state, superior, both in size, and the fineness of his
hair, to the rest of his species. Roebucks were
formerly numerous. The pine-martin inhabits tin;
wooded parts of Merioneth and Carnarvon. The
beaver is no longer found ; but the other is common.
Seals frequent the coasts of Anglesey and Carnar-
von. Among birds, the golden eagle breeds among
Spliagnuii' alpinum. Green Bog-Moss ; in bogs on Snowdon.
SoHdugo Cambrica. Welsh Golden Uod ; on Llanberris and
Llyn y Cwm, plentifully.
Sorbus Aucuparia. The Quicken Tree, or Mountain Ash ;
in moist woods and hedges.
Veronica spicata. Upright spiked Male Speedwell ; near
Snowdon, and on Penmaen ma«r.
Viola conina i alpina. Welsh Violet ; on Clogwyn y Garnedd,
above Ffynnon Las lake.
DENBIGHSHIRE.
Acrostic-hum septentrionak. Forked or horned Fern ; on old
walls of Llan Delhyla.
Lichen prabuscideus. Button Lichen ; on Berwyn mountain.
Myrica Gale. Goule, Gaij, Sweet Willow, or Dutch Myrtle;
on llwlch yn Haiarr.
Pupaver Cambricum. Yellow wild bastard Poppy ; near a
small village called Abler.
Hubun Chanutntorus. Knot-berries; on Berwyn.mountain.
Sorbus aucuparia. Mountain Ash. In 'woods.
— hybrida. Bastard Service Tree ; on old walls.
FLINTSHIRE.
Anemona nemorosa. A variety with the leaves dotted on the
back ; in some woods at Downing.
MERIONETHSHIRE.
Brassica oleracel. Sea Cal>bage ; on cliffs near Harlech.
Lichen centrifngus, fragilis, paschalis, licrbaceus, lacmiatust
pyiidatus. Various Lichens ; on Cader Idris,
.and about Dolgelhe and Llanberris.
MONTGOMERYSHIRE.
lasione Montana. Hairy Sheep's Scabious ; in meadows and
on heaths, near Machynleth.
I'eroriica spicata /S hybrida. Welsh spiked Fluellin ; on Craig
Wreidhin hill.
Rare Plants, found in South Wales.
BRECKNOCKSHIRE.
Orobus sylvaticus. English Wood Vetch ; in woods and
hedges, below Brecknock hillsj in the way to
Cardiff.
CARMARTHENSHIRE.
Sison verticillatum. Narrow-leaved Carraway ; in moist pas-
tures.
CARDIGANSHISE.
Euphorbia Peplis. Small Purple Sea Sponge ; on sandy sea
shores, near Aberystwith.
Statice Armeria. Thrift, or. Sea Gillitlower; on maritime
and alpine meadows and rocks, mar Aberyst-
with.
GLAMORGANSHIRE.
Adiantum capillit veneris. True Maidenhair ; on rocks and
moist walls ; at Barry island and Forth Ceiriog.
Salix repens. Creeping nillow ; on the sea coast.
PEMBROKKSHIRE.
Cyperus longus. Sweet Cypei us or English Galingale; in a
little stream, that runs into Wliitsand bay.
Scirpus sylvaticus. Millet Cyperus Grass; in a brook, near
Haverford West.
RADNORSHIRE.
Lichen pustu latus. Singed Liverwort ; on rocks facing the
south, under a tower, called Keveu-k-es- castle.
the
GIG
WALES.
the Snowdonian mountains ; thence called Creigiau
'r Eryrau, or the Eagle rocks ; and the peregrine
falcon, in Carnarvonshire : The merlin, the long-
eared owl, and vast numbers of grouse, or moor-
fowl, are also found. The island of Priestholm re-
ceives an annual visit from immense flocks of puffins ;
as do several parts of the coast, during winter, from
the black-backed gull, and the pelecanut graailm,
or shag. Mr. Pennant claims, as Welsh fish, the
Beaumaris shark, the trifurcated hake; the gathu-
rigin, and the trimaculated, striped, and gibbous
wrasse. Among the numerous tribes of river fish,
may be noticed the crooked perch, the deformed
trout, the samlet', the red and silver char, and the
salmo lavnretus.
AGRICULTURE, &c.] — The Welsh farmer is a
century, at least, behind his Saxon neighbour, in
agricultural improvements. His mode of ploughing
is uniform, whatever may be the nature of the soil,
or the kind of seed to be committed to it. With
astonishing improvidence, he exhausts the land by
successive white crops; ignorant or regardless of
the instrument which he possesses for its recovery,
in the entrails of his mountains. His panacea is
lime: marl is seldom sought for: and the plaister
stone, or alabaster, is entirely neglected. The
want of drains is as general, as their adoption would
be advantageous* It is considered an article of good
management, that weeds be preserved, because they
are serviceable to the future ley : it matters not, that
by this means, half the rising crop is choked. One
of the principal causes of this 'backwardness, is the
not granting proper leases ; and another, the letting
of farms by public roup, or auction. Yet, though
this is a faithful outline of the general state of agri-
culture in the principality, there are several in-
stances of a different and improved mode of manage-
ment. Much, therefore, may, and will, be done, in
a country where there arc more than 1,700,000 acres
of waste land ; of which part would make excellent
upland pasture; part is capable of being converted
into excellent arable ; and a large portion is well
adapted to the forming of plantations. — Of the
cattle of Wales it may be observed, generally, that
they are small ; but their flesh is excellent ; and
many thousands are annually driven into England.
TRADE, MANUFACTURES, &c.] — Wales has for
several centuries been celebrated for its flannels ;
and, in despite of competition, that country may
still be considered superior to all others in the manu-
facture. The different forms in which it appears,
are webs, flannels, stockings, wigs, gloves, and
socks. Of webs there are two kinds : the strong,
or high country cloth ; and the small, or low country :
the former, the produce of Merionethshire ; the
latter, of Glynn, in Denbighshire. The manufac-
turers in both cases are the peasantry ; the webs con-
tain two hundred yards each ; arid they are disposed
of, in a kind of hall, belonging to the Draper's com-
pany. The important commodity of flannel is the
produce of Montgomeryshire, of the district, twenty
miles round Welsh Pool ; and of a few infant fac-
tories established at Newtown, Machynlleth, and
other places. In this fabric, which has been, till
recently, in the hands of poor persons, considerable
improvements have been made ; and the consequence
is the increased value of fine goods, while coarse
articles are scarce, and extravagantly dear. The
stockings, gloves, &c. are sold chiefly at the town
of Bala ; being made in the immediate vicinity. —
Considerable manufactories of cotton and cotton
twist have been established in the counties of Flint
and Denbigh ; the produce" of which is mostly sent
into England and Scotland. — The commerce of
Wales is considered, with reason, in its infancy :
being confined to the coasting trade. Carnarvon
and Swansea have, indeed, lately extended their
views to Spain, Portugal, and the West Indies ;
but few other of the Welsh ports possess vessels
of any considerable burthen.
CANALS.] — Wales was long unprovided with these
nurseries of commerce. In North Wales, the first
project of the kind was for the junction of the
rivers Severn and Dee, by a canal from near Shrews-
bury to the vicinity of Chester. The act for its
execution was obtained in 1794. This canal com-
mences at Bagley Bridge, and passes Newtown,
Walford, Baschurch, Weston, Lullingfield, and
Hordley, where a cut branches to Llanymynech
town and lime-works. After another branch to
Prees-heath, it enters the principality near Chirk
Castle, and crosses the river Dee, by an aqueduct ;
it then proceeds to Buabon, Newhall, Bersham, and
Wrexharn ; branches to Holt ; and, again crossing
the Dee, passes Chester, Stoke, Stanney and
Whitby, where it joins the Mersey, after a course
of fifty-seven miles, in which there are 537 feet of
lockage. — The Montgomery, which proceeds from a
branch of the Ellesmere, near .Llanymynech, was
projected about the same time. In its course, it
visits Gwernfeln and Berriew, branches to Guils-
field and Welsh Pool, and terminates at Newtown in
Montgomeryshire. The length of this canal it
twenty-seven miles, through a country rich in lime^
stone, freestone, *late, coal, lead, and other minerals ;
and, by it a communication is opened with Chester
and Shrewsbury. — The Aberdare canal joins the
Glamorgan at the fork made by the TaflF and the
Cynon; runs parallel with the latter ; and terminates
in a rail-way, above eight miles long, which crosses
that river to (he Neath canal at Abernant. — The
Swansea canal flows, parallel with the Tawy, be-
tween that town and Ben-noyadd ; a distance of
seventeen miles, in which there are 373 feet rise.
— The Brecknock canal, planned at the same time
as the Swansea, joins the Monmouth about a mile
from Pontypool, crosses the Avon, Hows through
a tunnel, 220 yards long, passes Abergavenny.
and proceeds, parallel with the Usk, to Breck-
nock : in Which course, of thirty-three miles, it hiif
a rise of about sixty-eight feet, and several rail-
ways ; one of which, to the iron-works at Wair
Deu
WALES.
617
Dew, is nearly five miles long.— In 1790, an act
was obtained for a canal between the town and river,
Neath, and Furuo Vaughan, twelve miles distant.
— The canals of Soutli Wales, are the Kid welly,
in Carmarthenshire, a cut four miles long ; and
the Cardiff, formed between that place and Mer-
thyr Tydvil ; in which course of twenty-five miles
it passes Llandaft'and Pielly Bridge, and has a fall
of nearly 600 feet.
ROADS, BRIDGES, &c.] — Except the two great
mail roads, which formed the communication with
the north and south of Ireland, by way of Holyhead
and Milford, there was, till a few years since,
scarcely a single road to be found in all Wales, fit
for the passage of carriages. So much of the public
attention has, however, been recently applied to this
article of public convenience, that tlie country may
now be traversed in almost every direction. The
greatest work of this kind, is the grand road,
through Snowdonia, by which an extensive com-
munication has been opened between- the coast and
the interior ; and the route, between London and
Holyhead, has been diminished in length, not less
than twenty-five miles. — In proportion as Wales
.was deficient in roads, it abounded in bridges ;
which, from the great number, as well as peculiar
oharacter of the rivers, must have attracted the
attention of the inhabitants at an early period. Many
mountain-streams have their channels in ravines of a
ilepth too enormous to permit the usual standard
support for bridges ; whence arose the necessity of
the hanging bridges, which form so striking a fea-
ture in the romantic landscapes of this country.
Some of this kind, and others constructed in the
usual manner, are distinguished, as well for their
boldness, as for their beauty of design and exe-
cution. The new iron bridge, on the suspension
principle, over the Menai, will also, when completed,
present an astonishing display of scientific skill.
. GENERAL AND ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY, ANTI-
QUITIES, &c.] — The etymology of the various de-
signations of the now principality of Wales, as well
as the origin of its inhabitants, remains unknown,
a subject for the imagination of antiquaries. The
Latin name, Cambria, appears clearly deduced from
the word Cimbri, or Cymri, a tribe of Celta:. The
nnme Wales, whether derived from the Scandinavian
Walsh, a stranger, the Saxon ifenllan, to wander ;
or the gentilitious denomination Gael, Cael, or Gnul,
common to the Highlanders of Scotland, the Irish,
the Welsh, and the Armorican Britons ; certainly ex-
isted, and was popularly used, as early as the sixth
century ; for Taliessin, a Welsh Bard, actually cm-
ploys it in one of his poems :
Eu ner afolant
Eli hiaith a gadwant ;
£u tir a gallant
* The vestiges which these conquerors left in Wales, con-
sisted, as elsewhere, of roads, of which there were seven principal :
1. V id Julia Maritinut ; 2. Via Julia Montana ; 3. yia Occi-
dcntalis ; 4. yia, Devana ; j. Via Oricntulis ; 6'. Norlli Wat-
ling-street ; 7. Somh W ailing-street ; and of stations, of which
the following is a list : — Caer Gybi, Holyhead, in Anglesea ;
Segontium, CaerSeiont, Carnarvon; laris, Bodvary in Flint-
shire, near Denbigh ; Caergwrlc and Holt, also in Flintshire ;
VOL. IV. MO. 195.
Wallia,
Yet still their maker they shall praise,
And still their language shall preserve ;
Although of country be deprived,^
Except uncultured Wain.
It appears from the Roman history of Britain,
that, when Ostoritis proceeded to the conquest of
the western part of the island, he found the country
beyond the Severn peopled by three tribes, deno-
minated theOrdovices, the Silurcs, and the Dimetae.
The first possessed all North Wales ; and bad their
name from the position, or the character, of their
country ; Ard or Ordo signifying high, and vices
a brave people. The Silnres occupied the modern
counties of Hereford, Radnor, Brecon, Monmouth,
and Glamorgan ; and derived their name, in the
opinion of Mr. Lewis Morris, from Islwijr, a low-
lanrter, in contradistinction to the neighbouring
Ordovices. The Dimetae inhabited the present
counties of Cardigan, Pembroke, and Carmarthen ;
which they themselves called Difed ; the evident
etymon of the Latin name. The condition of these
tribes was nearly the same as that of the other
Britons, which is known to have been very differ-
ently depicted by their own annalists, and the his-
torians of their conquerors : the former pourtrajing
a warlike, learned, and commercial people ; the
latter, a .horde of fierce, illiterate, anil naked savages.
Their history, therefore, always interesting1, but
comprised in that of the whole island till the Saxon
invasion, then first assumes that deeper character
which forms its chicfattraction. After a resistance,
glorious to Use victors and the vanquished, Suetonius
Paulinus overcome the Ordovices, and extirpated
the Druids, in Mona, which had ever been consi-
dered as the sanctum -of their religion ; notwith-
standing which dreadful example, the Silnres main-
tained their struggle for freedom, till the arrival of
Julius Agricola with a< powerful army ; when, at
length subdued, Wales began to assume the appear-
ance of a Roman colony. As it thenceforward
became subject to the form of government, already
established in the rest of the island ; and as the
institutions of the Romans were almost uniform,
its history is included' under the general head, till
the departure of those conquerors* left it a prey to
new
I Banchorium, Bangor- booed* oh the banks of the Dee ; Iferiri
I A/ott£> near Balu in Merionethshire; Mtdiolunutn, Mcivod, or
! Mviod, in Montgomeryshire; Afagna, at Old Radnor' or Ken -
; Chester; Loventiwn, Llartio isa in Cardiganshire; AcL •cigcsi-
\ mum, supposed by some to have been situated at Castel Fleni-
! itlg, and by others near Narht-rih, in Pembrokeshire; Mcnapia,
i the port tor Ireland, not far from the present -Si. David's ;
j Afaridunuin, Carmarthen > LlaiiiUr ar y Bryn in Carniar-
7 R tfcenshire;
018
WALES.
new calamities. It was at this period, that the specta-
cle presented itself, of a valiant and half civilized
people, divided among themselves, yet occasionally
uniting to repel foreign invaders. In vain : the
Saxons, as is well knowu, established themselves in
the open parts of the country ; and forced the abo-
rigines* to retire to the shelter of their mountain-
fastnesses, which, thus peopled, became divided
into six districts, each governed, during more than
four centuries, by its own king. In 843, Roderic,
surnamed the Great, became the monarch of Wales ;
and at hi* death, it was divided among his three
sons. Anarawd became prince of North Wales,
and resided at Aberffraw, in Anglesey ; Cadeil go-
verned South Wales, and established his seat at
Dinevwr, in Carmarthenshire; and Mervyn pos-
sessed Powys-land, fixing his residence at Matin-a-
val, in Montgomeryshire. This partition occasioned
many wars, which terminated in the form of division
still existent. The Conqueror was the first king of
England who cjaimed the homage of the Welsh
Princes, as superior lord ; and with him and his
successor began the system of permitting the En-
glish lords to conquer, at their own charge, the
territories of the Welsh ; which, though proceeding
from the wisest policy, was ostensibly grounded ou
the absurd idea of forfeiture, incurred by the re-
nunciation of a forced allegiance. The first fruits
of this scheme was the reduction of all South Wales,
and Powy's-land, by various adventurers, who did
the king homage for their conquests ; and who, being
barons' of the boundaries, were denominated lords
marchers. In this unprincipled spirit of acquisition
Bernard de Ntwmarche subdued Brecon ; Roger de
Montgomery overran and took possession of Car-
cliu-au ; as did Arnulph, his youngest son, the great
lordship of Pembroke. The earl of Shrewsbury
paid homage for all Powys-land ; Lupus, Earl of
themhire ; Leucarum, laugher, in Glamorganshire ; Somium,
Bovcrtw), near Ewenny ; Nidum, Neath ; Tibia Amms,
Cardiff; Gobaanium, Abergavenny in Monmouthshire ; Bles-
<iu«,Monmouth; Burrium, Usk ; Ista Silurum, the capital
of the colony, and the residence of a prztor ; Venta Silurum,
.Caewent; -and AdSabriwm, on the Severn, near the new, or
old passage. Some traces of vicinal roads are distinguishable
in several places, which are known by the denomination of Sarn ;
«nd wherever this British word occurs, it is highly probable a
Roman road is not far distant. Numerous villas, sudatoria,
aqueducts, walls, nr.lliaria, or mile stones, statues, altars, inscrip-
tions, pavements, urns, pottery, medals, coins, and other re-
gains, have also been discovered ; wl-.ii h evidently indicate a
Roman residence.— Wales abounds with the remains of en-
campments, lines of circumvallation, strong holds, hill-fortresses,
castles and castellated mansions; specimens of military archi-
tecture therefore in the diversified styles of different and distant
periods constitute some of the most prominent and interesting
features in the artificial part of its picturesque scenery. While
the Romans generally chose for the site of their camps or forts,
a rising ground near some river, or a lingula, formed by the
confluence of two ; the Britons selected the most lofty, insu-
lated, and least accessible mountains, the summits of which
they fortified, by excavating deep trenches in the solid rock,
adding valla by heaping up the loose stones, dug out of the
fosses ; and in the succeeding times, by adding strong walls,
Chester, for Bugle-field and Rhyvonioc ; and others
for various lands of minor consideration. In 1108,
Henry I. introduced into Pembrokeshire, anumerous
colony of Flemings. The//e<? Welsh were confined
to Anglesey, Carnarvon, Merioneth, and parts of
Denbigh and Cardigan : an airy region which, de-
fended by the inflexible spirit of independence,
would have been inaccessible, if its possessors had
not been divided. The death of David, who had
succeeded his unfortunate brother Llewelyn, in the
reign of Edward I. dissipated the last shadow of
sovereignty which remained of ancient British em-
pire, after its protracted opposition to the arms of
imperial Rome, and its effectual resistance of Saxon
and Anglo-Norman efforts for its subjugation,
through the space of eight centuries. In 1284,
Edward annexed Wales to the crown of England.
Still that monarch did not enjoy a tranquil possession.
Three insurrections appeared in different places at
once. The West Welsh were led by Maelgwyn
Vychan ; South Wales revolted to the standard of
Morgan ; and Mad we, the son of Llewelyn, headed,
the insurgents of North Wales. But these brave
men had preconcerted no plan of co-operation ; the
English monarch renewed the war in person ; and
soon reduced them to unqualified submission.
One more effort was made by the Welsh, under
Owen Glyn Dwrdwy ; and, that being suppressed,
they were reduced to a state of the most deplorable
bondage. Henry VII. in gratitude for their assist-
ance in the prosecution of his claim to the crown,
granted them some relief ; and his successor pro-
ceeded still further to exonerate them from the ty-
rannical oppressions of the lords marchers. At
length, all the privileges were extended to them of
English jurisprudence; and they were formally
united and incorporated with the English.* —
Among the early Britans, the kingly form of govern-
and erecting massy circular towers, with other bastion works
of defence. Among the former, may be classed, Moel Arthur,
and Moel y Gaer, in Flintshire. The Gaer, near Montgomery;
Tre'r Caeri.and Dinas, in Carnarvonshire ; with Cam Mauryn.
Pen y Crag, and Pen y Pare, in the county of Brecon. CH
the latter description, are Dolbadern, and Penmer.-mawr, in
Carnarvonshire; Caergwrle, in Flintshire ; Craig y Dmas, n
Merionethshire; Carreg Cennin in Carmarthenshire; and
Castle Coch, in Glamorganshire, with numerous others.
* The Normans introduced a new and more magnificent
style of military fortification; and erected castles, formidable
both in number and extent, so that what arfitermed the inarches
of Wales, consist of one bioad line of massy fortresses, from the
mouth of the Dee to the embouchure of the Wye. Hint, Den-
biRh, Montgomery, Powys, Brecknock, Caerphili, and Car-
diff furnish bold evamples of the style at that period ; and more
were erected bv the Anglo-Normans, as they progressively
encroached on the country. Thus did this kind of buildings
so far increase, that Mr. Pennant enumerates one hundred and
forty-three castles, in the principality ; and th.it number is pro-
bablv short of the actual amount. Edward 1. constructed
three' castles in a style, which for strength, beauty, and gran-
deur, have never yet been surpassed. Harlech, Carnarvon,
and Conway, remain the proud monuments of the Cambrian
conqueror's footsteps, and the finest display, ever evinced, of
skill iu military architecture.
ruent
WALES.
meat prevailed in all its primitive simplicity. The
chief officer of state was called Pendragori, and
his dignity was hereditary ; though his power was
acknowledged only in times of common danger.
Next were the chieftains, or petty princes ; who held
their lands in capite from the crown, and presided as
lords, each over his particular demesne. After
these came the great mass of the community, who,
though generally in a state of villainage, were
divided into two classes ; those, namely, who might
keep or relinquish their hinds al discretion ; and who
were capable of possessing property ; and those, who
were considered the property of the Jord, attached
to, and s, ih-ible with, the estate. It is certain that
the work of legislation was prosecuted by a body,
constituted by the representatives of canlrefs or
hundreds, and by the supreme monarch ; and that
the consent of both these members was necessary to
give force to any law, proposed by either. The
body oi these laws was compiled and augmented by
Howel Dda, about 926; and the code which he thus
composed is accounted the most regular, extant.
Its most prominent feature is the law oiinheritance,
denominated gavel kind ; by which, property was
divided among the sons, legitimate and bastard,
without distinction : the females of every degree
being excluded, till the utter extinction of the males.
— The popular religion of the Welsh was Bardism,
so often described under the more general designa-
tion of Druiclism. Tlie main principle of this insti-
tution appears to have been benevolent -, its ministers
being prohibited from bearing arms; a second
general ground was the investigation of truth ; and
a third, the perfect equality of its members. The
Bards were divided into three classes, called
Braynt, Derwydd,and Ovydd. The Bards braynt,
or proper, had the office of perpetuating the customs
and privileges of the system ; the Derwyddon, or
Druids, wer« the officiating ministers ; and the
Oyyddoii were the professors of arts and sciences.
After the introduction of Christianity, the Beirdd
Ynys Prydain, the genuine British Bards, formed
a small dissenting sect ; and at the fall of the last
Llewelyn, the profession had nearly disappeared.
The name, however, continued to be assumed by a
kind of persons, very different from its original
possessors. These were men, who, not being ini-
mical to Christianity, were patronized by the great,
as historians, heralds, poets, and minstrels, or re-
citers of martial songs. They held a high rank in
public opinion ; and were even considered as sacred.
In the llth century, there existed three kinds of
minstrels in Wales : the first, denominated Beirdd,
or makers of songs, who also kept records of gen-
tlemen's arms and genealogy ; next, the performers
on musical instruments ; and, lastly, reciters, per-
sons who accompanied with the voice, the tones of j
the harp, the crowth, or the pibgorn. It does not i
appear that the crime, charged upon Edward, of
causing the massacre of this order, has any serious
foundation ; although, " as inciters of the people to i
sedition," some severe diets were enacted against
them, which they easily contrived to elude. — Th«
monuments of primitive B.irdism, are, as might be
expected from its long prevalence, numerous in
Wales; consisting, mostly, of large, unsculptured
stories, placed in a vertical position ; logan, or
rocking stones ; cromlechs, formed by one vast
stone being laid horizontally on two, or more, up-
rights ; carnedds, consisting of loose stones thrown
together ; and barrows, made of earth only ; both
of which last usually contain cistvaen, or stone
coffins.
We are ignorant of the precise period when
Christianity made its appearance in Britain. Th«
majority of historians place this event at the close
of the second century, in the reign of Lucius, king
of tbe Silures, who built the first church at Lliin-
duff ; and instituted a metropolitan see at Caerleon
on Usk. In the next century, the Christian religion
i appears to have made a gradual, though not a rapid
progress. In 314, several British bishops assisted
at the council of Aries ; and North Wales is sairl
to have been converted by Kebius Corinnius, who
was elected bishop of Anglesey. Soon after, ap-
peared the noted schismatic, Morgan ; better known
as the author of the Pelagian heresy ; and the hope
of confuting his errors attracted into Britain, St.
Germain, bishop of Auxerre, and Lupus, bishop of
Troyes. Several schools were founded at Ty-gwyn,
in Carmarthenshire, Llancarvau in Glamorganshire,
and Bangor iscoed, in Flintshire, which became
famous, as the seminaries of many illustrious cha-
racters. In a second mission, St. Germain founded
a cathedral at Llandaff ; and consecrated Dubricius,
Archbishop of Caerleon ; at whose death, St. David
was invested with that dignity ; having under him
three suffragans, the bishops of St. Asaph, Bangor,
and Llaudaff. lu the ftth century, appeared many
-distinguished men, among whom were Cadoc,Padern,
Oudoceus, Kentigern, Asaph, Colmnba, Gildas,and
Columbanus. At this early period, the clergy had
no distinct cures ; but resided, with their respective
bishops, in monastic or collegiate bodies, supported
chiefly by the voluntary offerings of the people.
There, collectively, they were habituated to the ex-
ercises of reading and prayer ; and thence proceeded
to perform the duties of their function in such dis-
tricts as were allotted to them by their diocesans.
In 1101, the diocese of St. David fell under the
jurisdiction of the see of Canterbury ; and on the
complete subjugation of the country by Edward I.
the whole of Wales submitted to the jurisdiction of
the English primate. — Succeeding events, as of the
dissolution of monasteries, and their partial re-esta-
blishment, will, from the close incorporation of the
two countries, be found in the history of the English
church. The Welsh are still animated by a large
portion of the same spirit which warmed their ances-
tors to devotion ; and there are many sects of pro-
testant dissenters, the majority of whom are Metho-
dists. At present, the principality is comprehended
in
(120
WALES.
in the Province of York ; and has four episcopal
chairs, at St. David's, Banker, Llandaff, and St.
Asaph. The greater part of the livings in Wales
ore small, and the stipends in general were so scanty,
that no inducement was held out for the proper edu-
cation of ministers : a want which has been happily
ohviated by the foundation of two seminaries at
Yslradincyrig, and at Lampeter, in Cardiganshire.
Most places of note enjoy the benefit of a free-
school ; and in 1719, a hundred and forty-two itine-
rant schoolmasters were appointed for the instruction
of poor children, by the Society for the propagation
of Christian knowledge. — The admirers of sacred
architecture may find numerous subjects of exami-
nation in the remains of religious buildings ; the
varieties of which correspond very nearly with those
still remaining in the rest of the island. From their
vicinity, the Welsh soon imitated the improvements
of the English in architecture, as in other arts.
Several specimens, therefore, are to be discovered
of the Saxon, the pointed, and the florid styles :
all succeeded by the violent revolution in architecture
of the reign of Henry VII. the productions of which
are numerous. Many specimens of sculpture, also,
will be found in screens, shrines, tombs, fonts, stone-
seats, and other minute parts of the interior of eccle-
siastical buildings ; and very curious examples of
the state of the art, during the period which suc-
ceeded the departure of the Romans, occur in the
inscribed and decorated crosses which took place
qf the rude pillars of the Bardic ages. Malkin ob-
serves, that " in Wales you can scarcely travel ten
miles without coining upon some vestige of antiquity,
•which, in another country, you would go fifty to trace
out. Nor is it alone in the palaces of lords' that
these features of civilization are to be found : the
ruins of ancient farms and barns are particularly to
be noticed, as unquestionable evidences of former
opulence and fertility.1-'
GENEALOGY.] — In no other nation, perhaps, was
genealogy ever considered of so great importance,
«r carried to so extravagant an extent, as among
•the Welsh. 'This might arise from their unmixed
descent ; or from the peculiar character of their
•small territory ; whose mountains, by contracting
the sphere of "vicinal intercourse, almost confined
whole families to the same district ; but a more
probable cause is found in the laws of gavel-kind ;
which so dispersed property, and ramified heritable
relations, that it was essential to ascertain correctly
the degrees of affinity to the utmost latitude. The
five royal tribes of Cambria are descended from,
1. Gryffilh ap Cynan, King of North Wales, whose
arms were; gules three lioncels passans in pale barry
argent, armed azure ; 2. Rhys ap Tewdv\r Mawr,
\vho governed South Wales, in 1077, and bore gules,
a lion rampant, or, with a bordure indented ; 3,
Blethyn ap Cynf'yn, king of all Wales, who bore,
or, a lion rampant gules, armed and langued, or ;
4. Ethelystan Glodrydd, who was prince of the
country between Wye and Severn, and bore two
coats quartered : azure, three boars' heads caboched
sable, langued gules, tusked, or, his mother's
coat, parted per-bend sinister ermine and ermines ;
over all a lion rampant, or ; 5. Jestyn ap Gwrgant,
prince of Glamorgan, who bore, gules, three chev-
ronels in pale argent. The three first made diligent
search for the arms, ensigns, and pedigrees of their
ancestors, and ordained the five tribes ; beside whom,
we have mention of the tribe of Slarch, and others.
There are also fifteen tribes, peculiar to North
Wales, to which belong most of the principal fami-
lies, and landed proprietors of the county : — Mar-
chudd, Braint Hir, Hwfa ap Cynddelw, Llowarcb.
ap Br4n, Cilmin Droed Tu ; Ednowain ap Bradwen,
Ednowain Bendew, Edwin ap Grono, Hedd Mol-
wynog, tevnydd ap Morien, Macloc Crwm, Gwerydd
ap Rhys Goch, Marchweithian,Nevydd Hardd, and
Collwyn ap Tangno.
LANGUAGE, &c.] — The Welsh language has an
undeniable claim to high antiquity, as a dialect of
the Hebrew, to which it bears a very perceptible
resemblance, both in form and construction. It is,
therefore, more primitive, and unmixed, than any
living language of Europe ; abounding with tech-
nical terms ; and, from its aptitude to form veiba
sesquipedaiia, peculiarly fitted for poetry and ora-
tory. Its copiousness is unrivalled ; the verbs hav-
ing about twenty modifications, and possessing the
double capacity of being conjugated either by in-
flexions like the Latin, or like the English by aux-
iliaries. The alphabet consists of thirty-eight letters,
sixteen of which are radical, and expressive of the
primary sounds. No letter has any variation of
sound, except the accented vowels ; and there are
no mutes. A is pronounced ah; C. and G. are
always hard ; 5 or ch is a guttural ; Dd resembles
th, in the ; I is sounded like ee in been ; LI is an
aspirated 1 ; U is similar to i, in sin ; W is sounded
like oo,. in soon ; and Y resembles u, in burn. From
its numerous gutturals, it has been termed rugged ;
but that it is capable of great softness of sound is
shewn by the following stanzas :
Mae mil o leisian meluson
Mai me! o hyd ym mola Ihon.
Within the concave of the womb is found
The magic scale of soul-enchanting sound.
O'i wiw \vy 1 weu e a a'i wcuau
O'i wyau y weua ;
E' vena yw ei we aia'
A'i weuau yw ieuau ia.
I perish by my art ;
Dig my own grave ;
I spin my thread of life ;
My death I weave.*
* This epigram on the s'lk-wonn cr n .isls of vowels only :
and is, perhaps, unequalled in any langi a^e.
Poctrj
WALES.
621
Poetry was the favourite art of the Britons ; and
with them its measures were almost infinitely varied ;
though the laws of composition were so strict that
they must have cramped the genius of the bard, but
for the extent and copiousness of (he language, and
its aptitude for alliteratiw), a figure in which the
Welsh discover great beauty. They were, and
are even still addicted to music ; for which their
instruments are the harp, the crwth, or violin, -and
the pibcorn, or hornpipe. Their dances are lively
and very expressive ; and, in the simple strains of
their popular airs, they evince genuine skill in
music, warm the imagination, and interest the heart.
PECULIAR CUSTOMS.] — Among a variety of cus-
toms, which interest the attention of strangers, are
those incidental to courtship, marriage, and funerals.
The first is carried on in bed ; where, between the
blankets, the damsel, fortified by her petticoat, and
the swain fully habited, the young couple discourse
on those subjects which the nature of the occasion
may suggest. When they are agreed, a friend
performs the office of Gwahadder, or bidder, of
which the following is an instance.
Speech of the Bidder hi Llanbadarn Vawr, 1762.
" The intention of the bidder is this ; with kind-
ness and amity, with decency and liberality for
Einion Owain and Llio Elys, he invites you to come
with your good- will on the plate ; bring current
money ; a shilling, or two, or three, or four, or five ;
with cheese and butter we invite the husband and
•wife, and children, and men-servants, and maid-
servants, from the greatest to the least. Come there
early, you shall have victuals freely, and drink cheap,
stools to sit on, and fish if we can catch them ; but
if not, hold us excusable ; and they will attend on
you, when you call upon them in return. They set
out from such a place to such" a place."
At a funeral, the friends of the deceased meet in
the room where the corpse is placed ; the females
expressing their grief in loud lamentations. Bread,
cheese, and beer are distributed over the coffin to a
few poor persons, for collecting herbs and flowers,
to be enclosed with the body. This done, the Lord's
Prayer is repeated ; as it is at each cross-way, in
proceeding to the church ; while psalm-singing fills
up the intervals. Every individual of the congre-
gation, which is generally numerous, makes an
offering in money, which is either presented to the
clergyman or distributed among the poor relatives.
An affecting custom prevails of planting the graves
with evergreens, and flowers : the snow-drop, the
violet, and the primrose, denote the infant ; the
racket, rose, and woodbine, shew maturer age; and
tansy, rue, and star-wort, mark fullness of years.
These touching mementos are constantly weeded and
cherished by the hands of the nearest surviving
relative of the deceased ; who usually devotes the
afternoon of the Sabbath to the performance of
their pious office. Similar to the second-sight of
the Highlands of Scotland, are the Avvenyddiou
(raptures) of Wales. The persons endowed with
these attributes became inflamed with a high degree
of enthusiasm ; were, to all appearance, carried out
of themselves, and seemed possessed ; yet they did
not immediately solve the difficulty. It was by an
inconsistent circumlocution, some turn or digression,
with which they abounded, that any person would,
receive or fancy the desired explanation. The belief
of wilch-craft is still strong. Many doors are guarded
by horse-shoes, or crosses ; and, on St. John's Eve,
it is customary to place St. John's Wort at the en-
trance. A tribe of minute but powerful spirits,
called " Spirits of the Mountains," is supposed to
inhabit the southern sides of hills, and the deep re-
cesses of woods ; to be the friends of the good, and
the scourges of the wicked ; the latter of whom they
torment with dreams, and supernatural noises,
carrying away their children before baptism ;
and maiming their cattle. Another race of aerial
beings are called by the Welsh, knockers ; who,
say the miners, are heard under-ground, in or near
mines, and by their noises generally point out to the
workmen a rich vein of ore. An opinion prevails in
South Wales that, 'before the death of a person, a
light is seen to proceed from his bed, pursuing,
with a regular motion, the church-yard path. Ano-
ther and fuller intimation of approaching dissolution
is a phantasmagoric representation of the funeral.
A practice which spoke the ardent character of the
people, but which is now disused, was that, termed
" the offering of an enemy." When a person sup-
posed himself injured, he repaired to a church ; and,
there, on his bare knees, before the altar, offered a
piece of money, uttering the most virulent and
dreadful imprecations on the offender, and even his
posterity.
PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.] — The state of
the Parliamentary Representation, in the principality
of Wales, is as follows :'• — Each of the counties re-
turns one member to the national council ; and each
of the following places also returns one ; making
an aggregate of 24 : — Beaumaris, Brecon, Cardiff',
Cardigan, Carmarthen, Carnarvon, Denbigh, Flint,
Haverfordwest, Montgomery, Pembroke, and Rad-
nor.
POPULATION.] — The entire population of Wales
amounted, in the year 1700, to 366,500 ; in 1750,
to 449,300 ; in 1801, to 559,000 ; and, in 1811, to
611,788; or, allowing for absentees, in the navy
and army, to 632,600. — The annual proportion of
births is as 1 to 31, up to 43, averaging 37 ; of
deaths, as 1 to 52, up to 73, averging 60 ; and of
marriages, as 1 to 121, up to 154, averaging 122.
; VOL. iv,-— Kb. 185.
7 s
Summary, &c.
622
WALES.
Summary of the Population of (he Principality of (Tales, as published by Authority of Parliament, in 1811.
COUNTY or
HOUSES.
OCCUPATIONS.
PERSONS.
Inhabited.
«'
in
09
Uninhabited.
Families chiefly
employed in
Agriculture.
Families chicliy
employed in
Trade, Manu-
facture, &c.
fj^ r" ~ W
b-f So
Males.
Females.
Total
of
Persons.
7183
7555
9639
14856
9369
13078
88I<3
17017
6022
9349
12468
4046
7706
7918
1129ft
16083
10187
13703
9740
18695
6817
10305
12937
4368
72
97
129
113
102
96
51
102
33
40
154
30
108
354
155
333
154
281
155
741
115
174
406
119
5376
4667
5864
9878
6667
7973
4086
8217
3119
6369
7189
2941
1453
2239
1913
5256
2687
3447
3009
7915
1270
3164
284S
843
877
1013
3519
949
833
2283
2645
2563
1928
772
3900
584
17444
18507
23759
36080
23379
31129
22712
41365
14308
25373
27453
10124
19601
19228
26501
4113?
25957
33111
23806
43702
16616
26558
33162
10776
37045
37735
30260
77217
49336
64240
46518
85067
30924
51931
60615
20900
Flint
Totals
119398
129756
-1019
3095
72846
36044
20866
291633
320155
6117S8
ANGLESEY.
•GENERAL DESCRIPTION.] — The island, which, at
^present bears the designation of Anglesey, (English
Island,) was called by the ancient Britons, M6n ;
.and, by the Romans, Mono. Its other appellations
•were Yyns Dowyll, or the Shady Island, from its
numerous groves, consecrated to the ceremonies of
.Bardish worship ; Ynys y Cedeirn, from its powerful
inhabitants ; and the descriptive title of M6n mam
Gymrie, Mona, the mother or nurse of Wales, in
allusion to its superior fertility. Forming the
northwestern extremity of Wales, its figure is ex-
tremely irregular. Its average length, however,
from north-west to south-east is about twenty miles ;
the breadth, from north-east to south-west, about
sixteen ; and the circumference about seventy-six,
comprising 200,000 acres of land. It is divided
into six hundreds; Llyfon, Maltraeth, Menai,
Talybolion, Twrcelyn, and Tyndaethwy, including
seventy-four parishes, and four market-towns, New-
burgh, Beaumaris, Llanerchymedd, and Holyhead.
The climate is mild and temperate ; but it is subject
to excessive humidity in the autumn, occasioned by
mists from the Irish Sea. The face of the country,
different from the rest of Wales, is marked by no
lofty mountains or deep vallies ; in the interior is no
wood, though the soil is highly productive ; and
there are no rivers, though twelve small streams,
which .flow in various directions from the hills, afford
to all parts a due proportion of moisture. The
want of navigable rivers, also, is supplied by
numerous indentations of the coast, which form
harbours, favourable to the conduct of external
commerce. The natural productions of Anglesey
are multifarious ; and, many of them highly valua-
ble. Among the minerals, which enrich its bosom,
are coal, lead, copper, various kinds of marble,
ochre, potters' clay, breccia, and asbestos, of the
brittle kind. The soil, which is mostly a fine sandy-
loam, yields large quantities of barley and oats j
and many thousand head of cattle, exclusively of
sheep and hogs, pass the Menai, to the English
markets. The exports of honey, wax, tallow, hides,
and cloth, are also considerable. The sea, no less
bountiful than the land, yields immense quantities
of wreck, for kelp ; and plenty of fish, as herrings,
cod, whitings, turbot, plaice, soles, crabs, lobsters,
and oysters ; the .last of which are accounted excel-
lent.— Agriculture,, since the suppression of smug-
gling, has experienced many improvements ; but
manufactures are yet but little attended to ; the
few linen and woollen cloths, made in the island,
furnishing instances, rather of private industry, than
of public occupation. — It is conjectured, and not
without some appearance of reason, that Anglesey
once formed a member of the main-land ; and that it
was disjoined by the continual working of the
ocean. The straits, thus formed, are related to have
been forded by the Romans in their pursuit of the
fugitive Druids ; whence we may deduce the sup-
position that they were neither so deep nor so broad
as they are now. This exploit, which appears a
trifling incident in the relation of Roman conquests,
makes a considerable figure in the annals of the
island ; as it was attended by no less events than
the total overthrow of the religious institution which
had reigned there through many ages ; and the de-
struction ,of the existent form of government. The
latter was, however, at the departure of the con-
querors, resumed ; and, in 443, Casvvallan selected
Mona as his residence. To him succeeded Mael-
gwyn, from whom, in a direct line, sprang Cad-
wallader, the last king of the Britons. Thence-
forward, Mona formed part of the principality of
Gwynedd, the sovereigns of which resided at Aber-
ffraw. Egbert, the West-Saxon monarch, having
desolated
WALES.
623
flesolated North Wales, advanced to and took Mona
to which he, it is said, first gave the name of An-
glesey. William Rufus performed a similar exploit ;
and in the twelfth century, it was desolated by a
civil war between Cadwallader and Howel, who
had usurped the throne. The Irish,' also, made an
attempt upon the island in 1245, but were driven
back. As the renown of the North Welsh sovereigns
began and flourished, so it terminated, in Anglesey.
Here, in the days of Llewelyn ap Gryffydd, the last
of his line, the army of Edward I. having passed
the straits by a bridge of boats, as Julius Agricola
had done, obtained that ascendency, which so weak-
ened and abridged the power of Llewel/n, that it
led the way to the final reduction of the country.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
ABERFFRAW.] — Situated at the place, where the
river Ffraw discharges its waters into a smell bay
af thesamename, is Aberffraw, once a royal residence
of the North Wallian princes, and a seat of their
principal courts of justice. Few vestiges, however,
remain, of its former splendour. Some trifling relics
of the palace are shewn in the walls of a building,
now used as a barn ; but the genuineness, even of
these, rests on mere conjecture. Near its site are
frequently discovered the Gleiniau nadroedd, or,
snake gems ; concerning which, a vulgar opinion
still exists, that they are formed by the co-operation
of snakes, and, becoming hard by the weather, ensure
prosperity to the finder. In the neighbourhood, also,
is the small lake, Llyn Coron, which abounds with
trout, and is much resorted to, for angling. Aber-
fl'raw is further distinguished, as the birth-place of
Walter Stewart, ancestor of the royal house of that
name.
AMLWCH.] — At the distance" of twenty miles from
Beaumaris, on the northern side of the island, is
Amhvch, a place which has risen from a hamlet of
five or six houses, to a town of not less than 1025
hearths, solely by its vicinity to mount Parys, antl
the commodiousness of its port for shipping the
products of that valuable mine. The church is a
neat structure ; beside which, the town affords
nothing interesting, if we except the port, a chasm
between two rocks, of sufficient capacity, to contain
thirty vessels, of from fifty to two hundred tons bur-
den. The whole neighbouring coast, to the north-
westward, is a sandy plain of great fertility, inter-
sected by creeks and bays, opposite to which, are
three small islands, called the east, middle, and
west Mouses. — In the adjacent parish of Llanlechell,
is a large fallen cromlech ; and a fine quarry yields
the curious and beautiful marble, known to statuaries
by the name of Verde di Corsica, because formerly
procured from that place. — Two miles distant from
Amlwch, is the celebrated Parys mountain, known
for its copper- mines, which are probably the most
considerable in the world. Perfectly barren, from
the summit to the plain at its base, it is easily dis-
tinguished ; and the mining operations have given
additional effect to the grandeur of its rugged cx>
terior., From the time of the Romans, who seem to
have possessed the key of its treasures, it was en-
tirely neglected, till 17(U, when, some copper being
discovered accidentally, a company of adventurers
took a lease of a part which belonged to Sir Nicholas
Bailey; and succeeded, after fruitless trials during
four years, in finding copper, almost unalloyed,
within six feet of the surface. This proved to be the
vast bed, since wrought with such amazing success.
The proprietor of the remainder of the mountain,
(The Rev. Edward Hughes, who was then a curate in
indigent circumstances,) encouraged by this exam-
ple, began a similar adventure, and soon derived!
immense wealth from his property, till then sup-
posed valueless. The bed of ore is of unknown
depth and extent ; though attempts have been made,
to ascertain its precise limits. The manner of work-
ing it, is by vast open excavations, from which the
ore is raised in buckets. In the open air, it is broken
into small pieces, by women and children, who are
armed with iron gloves. It is then piled in kilns of
great length, and made to undergo the process of
roasting, by which means it is separated from the
sulphur. The latter sublimates to the top of the
kiln, and is conveyed by flues to a chamber, six feet
in height, on the same level, where it becomes what
is termed flower of sulphur. This process has a
continuation proportionate to the quantity of ore, in
the ratio of one month to a hundred tons. At its
conclusion the refuse is taken to the slaking pits to
be wrought and made merchantable. Another method
of producing the pure metal is, by immersing iron,
in the liquid sulphate, found at the bottom of the
mine : a means first discovered and practised in
Germany. Of the various products of this vast
mountain, the following are the principal : Yellow
sulphurated ere ; native copper, in small quantities ;
sulphate of copper, both crystallized and in solu-
tion ; sulphate of lead, containing a small portion
of silver; black ore, containing copper, with galena,
calamine, and some silver ; native sulphur ; and
Malachite or green and blue carbonate of copper.
The average number of persons employed in the
several processes, is upwards of one thousand ; the
consumption of gnu-powder amounts to one hundred
and fifty hundred weight ; and of candles to two
hundred and thirty hundred weight. Beside these
expences, the proprietors support many poor persons
of the neighbourhood, by their donations, amounting1'
to about 800/. yearly ; and pay surgeons' and apo-
thecaries' bills to the amount of 700/. The quantity
of copper, raised, is difficult to be ascertained. The!
Parys mine has generally produced from five to
ten thousand tons per quarter, besides fifteen tons
of precipitated copper, (copper obtained by the
solution of iron ;) and the Mona mine nearly an
equal quantity. As if to collect her treasures of the
mineral kingdom in one place, nature has here pro-
duced, also an ore of zinc, which promises to become
valuable ; and a bed of yellowish greasy clay, con-^
tain ing
624
WALES.
taining lead ore, which yields 57 ounces of silver
per ton of metal ; and this newly discovered source
of wealth receives all the attention which it de-
serves.
BEAUMARIS.] — Situated on the low shore of an
admirable harbour, called Beaumaris Bay, is Beau-
maris, which, though a small place, is the capital
of the county. Of this little doubt is entertained,
that it arose round a castle, founded in the thirteenth
century, by Edward I. Its name, apparently de-
rived from the French words, beau (fair) and marais
(a marish) or mcr (sea) is allusive either to its site,
or the fine road for shipping near it. The castle,
erected at a period posterior to the foundation of its
rivals of Conway and Carnarvon, owed probably
its existence to the defeat which the invading
monarch experienced in one attack on the island.
From the time of its erection, however, in l2f95,
till the reign of Charles 1. its history is distinguished
by no event of moment ; being filled, chiefly, with
the relation of quarrels between the garrison and
the inhabitants. At the latter period, it was placed
by the deputy-governor, Cheadle, in a respectable
posture of defence, for the cause of royalty, which
it maintained, till 1648, when it was at length com-
pelled to surrender to General Mytton, who ap-
pointed a Captain Evans, his deputy in the govern-
ment. At the Restoration, Lord Bulkeley was
reinstated ; and the custody is vested at present in
Sir R. Williams. The site of this fortress has,
evidently, been surrounded by a fosse, for the double
purpose of defence, and the bringing of relief from
the seaward. In style, it displays more of the
eastern than of European architecture. Its exter-
nal shape, defined by low, but massive embattled
•walls, is parallelogrammical ; and it is flanked by ten
circular bastion towers. The gateways are two;
formed by pointed arches, between strong towers ;
and defended by portcullisses. Within this fortified
envelope, stands the principal body of the castle,
superior in height, and nearly quadrangular : having
a grand tower at each corner, and connecting cur-
tains in the face of the longest sides, also flanked
with circular towers. The interior consists of an
area, nearly two hundred feet square ; and in the
centre of the north-west side is a magnificent hall,
in length, seventy, by a breadth of twenty-three
feet. The remains of a small chapel on the east
side of the area, display some beautiful pointed
arches, and an elegant groined roof, supported hy
ribs and pilasters, between which are three windows
of the lancet-form. Much also remains of a covered
gallery, which once formed a menus of communi-
cation between the towers of the out works ; and
within the walls are recesses, gained out of their
thickness, of uncertain use. The town of Beau-
maris, surrounded with walls, by the victor Edward,
was by him endowed with numerous privileges,
•valuable in those days ; and it became, hy degrees,
a thriving and respectable place. Sir John Wynne,
characterizing the inhabitants of the three castel-
lated towns on the Menai, calls them " the lawyers
of Carnarvon, the merchants of Beaumaris, and the
gentlemen of Conway i" whence we may presume
that Beaumaris was of some importance in com-
merce two centuries ago. The present town consists
of several streets ; of which one, terminated by the
castle, is very handsome ; and the houses are, in
general, well-built. The chapel of St. Mary, now
the parochial church of Beaumaris, is a handsome
structure, composed of a nave, chancel, and two
aisles, with a square embattled tower. On an altar-
tomb of the chancel, are two recumbent figures in
alabaster, of a knight and his lady ; with the motto
" Honi soil qiti vtal y pense" and an inscription—
" HENRICUS SYDNEY, ORDINIS GARTERII, MILES ;
PR^SIDENS EX CONS:LIIS MARCHIIS WALLI*; DOMI-
NUS DEPUTATUS IN HiBERNiA*' ; with other names,
and the date, 1565. The free-school was erected
and endowed, in 1603, by David Hughes, Esq. ;
Who also founded an excellent alms-house, for six
poor persons, who enjoy small annuities. To these
four others have been added, by Lord Bulkeley ;
who also recently caused to be rebuilt the town-hall,
if which the body-corporate assemble to transact,
municipal business. That corps, formed in the
4 Elizabeth, is composed of a mayor, recorder, two
bailiffs, twenty-four burgesses, two serjeants-at-
mace, and other inferior officers. The county-hall
is a small low building, of mean appearance. The
custom-house is the comptrolling-office to all parts
on the island, and even to the Carnarvonshire side
of the Menai. Beaumaris is frequented, during the
summer, by numerous families of respectable rank,
for the purpose of sea-bathing. The bay, which
consists of an expansive opening in front of the
town, is so sheltered by the island of Priestholm,
and the great Ormeshead, that vessels of consider-
able burden may ride ii\ safety in six or seven fa-
thoms water ; but the channel is narrow ; and at low
water, a great part of the bay, being left dry, forms
what are called the Lavan sands ; the passage across
which, being hazardous, ought to be undertaken
with precaution. Notwithstanding this its local
advantage for maritime adventure, the place has
little or no trade ; and depends for support, princi-
pally, on the vessels which put in through stress of
weather. — Situated on an eminence above Beau-
maris, at the head of an extensive lawn, which
slopes to the town ; and commands extensive pro-
spects ; is Baron Hill, the seat of Lord Bulkeley.
This edifice, built in the year 1618, has been recently
enlarged and improved, under the direction of Wyatt.
Its most remarkable feature is its height ; made
more conspicuous by the elevation of its site. The
grounds are finely diversified, by nature, and are
also interspersed with ornamental buildings. But
the domestic scenery is in nothing equal to that
presented by the distance. The sea to the northward
forms a most magnificent bay, between the coast ot
Lancashire, and the Isle of Man ; the Menai opening
into it, between {he Ormeshead and Priestholm, with
al)
uf.
WALES.
&H (lie peculiar grandeur, ascribed to the rivers of
the New World ; and this is bounded, eastward, by
a vast amphi theatrical range, composed of the princi-
pal heights of Snowdonia, which steep their verdant
bases in thewaves. — Llanvaes Priory, now called
the Fryars, the seat o.f Sir Robert Williams, Bart,
was formerly a monastery, founded about 1237, by
Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, over the grave of his princess,
a natural daughter of King John. The church,
and other parts of the foundation, were repeat-
edly destroyed by the English, and as often re-
built, on the compunctious vi.sitings of conscience;
and Henry V. made, finally, a provision for
eight friars; six English, and two \Velsb, oftlie
Franciscan order. At the Dissolution, the church
was converted into a barn ; and the stone coffin
of Princess Joan, being placed near a small brook,
was used during two hundred and fifty years, as a
trough for watering the horses of an adjacent farm.
All vestige of the monastery has disappeared ; except
the chapel, still used as an out house. The present is
a respectable building, surrounded by an improved
demesne, the field, once, of a desperate conflict,
between the Saxon king Egbert, and the Welsh, led
on by the brave Merfyn Frych. — Tre'r Castell, an
old castellated mansion, for centuries the seat of the
descendants of Marchudd, lord of jQwch Dnlas, in
Denbighshire, was the residence, in the fourteenth
century, of Sir Tudwr ap Gronwy, a valiant gentle-
man, who, having assumed the distinction of knight-
hood, and being questioned on the subject of his
presumption by the king, Edward 1. replied bold-
ly, that, by the laws of the Round Table, he had a
right to the honour: havingthe threerequisites :" first,
he was a gentleman ; secondly, he hud sufficient
estate; thirdly, he was valiant and resolute ;" ad-
ding, " if my valour and resolution be doubted, here
I throw down my glove, for proof of courage, and
stand ready to encounter any man." This stout
gentleman was the great-great-grandfather of Henry
VII. — Castell Aber Lliehawg is a name which con-
tinues to be borne by the vestiges of a small ancient
fort, near the sea-beach. This appears to have
consisted of a circular tower at each of its four
angles, and a square tower, or keep, in the centre :
the whole surrounded !>y a deep foss ; and connected
with the shore, by a covered way, for the landing'of
troops and stores. It was founded, in 1098, by the
Earls of Chester and Shrewsbury, to cover their
invasion of Anglesey, at a time when it was desolated
by civil dissensions ; and having been garrisoned by
Cheadlf, for the parliament, was taken by Colonel
Robinson, in I'olti. — At a mile from the fort, and,
like that.-sitnated near the sea-shore, are the remains
of Peninon Priory, a monastery, founded by Mael-
gwyn Gwyneddin the sixth century, lor black monks
of the Bene<tictine order. These remains consist of
<he refectory, with a few cells, and the dormitory ;
and the church, part of which is still used for pa-
rochial service. The church, a dwelling house, and
the ruinous refectory, form three sides of a square
. IV.— 1K>. 186.
court, open towards the east. The interior of the
church i» rather interesting ; containing souie re-
mains of painted glass ; some circular arches, with
treble zigzag and billeted mouldings ; and a font,
which consists of a solid block of stone, with a cir-
cular cavity at the top, and a rude plinth round the
base. — At the distance of throe quarters of a mile
from the shore, and nearly opposite the promontory
of Peuraon, lies the island of Priestholin, Ynys
Seiriol, Glannauch, or Puffin Island. Of an oval
shape, about a mile in length, and half a mile in.
breadth, it is extremely lofty; and is bounded by
precipices, except on the laud side, where there is
also a bold escarpment. At present it is uninhabited.
In the middle is an old square tower, round wUicli
are scattered vestiges of other buildings, and marks
of sepulture, which indicate former habitation, and
confirm the supposition, that this was once a religious!
house, subordinate to the priory of Peumon. Here
resided Seiriol, an ascetic of the sixth century, to.
whose tomb, frequent pilgrimages Were made. Giral-
dus thus mentions the island and its inhabitants :
" There is a small island, almost joining to Anglesey,
which is inhabited by hermits, living by manual
labour, and serving God. It is remarkable that
when by the influence of human passions any discord
arises among them, all their provisions are devoured
and infected by a species of small mice with which
the island abounds ; but, when the discord ceases,
they are no longer molested. — This island is called,
in Welsh, Ynys Lenach or Priests' island, because
many bodies of saints are deposited there ; and no
woman is suffered to enter it." This place, thus
celebrated and revered, is now tenanted by a few
sheep, and a numerous colony of rabbits, ; and
during the summer months, swarms with. birds of
passage : peregrine-falcons, cormorants, razor-bills,
guillemots, oyster- catchers, stormy-peterels, divers,
terns, curlews, and gulls. The whole island, espe-
cially, seems animated with (he alcae arcticsc, puffin-
auks, or coulternebs, which come hither to Jbreed.
They are about a foot in leligth, and their legs
being placed far back, they stand with their heads
nearly upright. Their bill is a triangular pyramid,
of a dark orange colour ; the upper parts of the
plumage are black, and the belly is white ; and the
wings are short, and so narrow, as to require a
rapid motion in flying- They generally arrive in
the beginning of April, and remain till the second
week in August. They, expel the rabbits from their
burrows, put together a few sticks and grass, and
deposit one egg, which is hatched in the beginning
of July. During incubation, and when with their
young, they continually emit a humming sound,
which, when they are seized, resembles the efforts
of a dumb person to speak. As the flesh of the old
birds is rank, that of their young only is pickled for
sale by the renters of the island, and packed in
small barrels, each of which, containing twelve
birds, is sold for five shillings. Priestholin is the
property of Lord Bulkeley, who lets it to a company
?T of
626
WALES.
of poor persons, for 15/. per annum. — Penmon Park,
the property of Lord Bulkeley, is surrounded by a
lofty stone wall, and well stocked with red deer.
On one side is a high limestone ridge, which com-
mands a distinct view of the Isle of Man ; and in the
centre, not far off, is an ancient and curious British
cross, composed of a square shaft, six feet high,
ornamented with decorations in relief, the figure of
a saint, and some illegible traces of sculptured
characters.
GWINDU] — Gwindti, or Gwindy (the wine-house)
is a half-way house and posting-inn, between Ban-
gor-ferry, and Holyhcad, once the seat of Rhys np
Llewelyn ap Hwlkyn, who was appointed by Henry
VIII. the first sheriff of Anglesey, for services,
performed at the head of a company at Bosworth
field. It is now the property of J. B. Sparrow,
Esq. of Red Hill. — The mail road, branching at
Llanyngenedle, passes Penrhos Hall, the seat of
Lady Stanley, a handsome, modern mansion, in a
bleak and dreary situation, near the coast.
HOLYHEAD.} — Situated on a small island, at the
north-western extremity of Anglesey, is Holyhead,
the usual place of passage to and from Ireland. Its
ancient name, Caer Cybi, (the fort of Cybi,) de-
notes that it was ever deemed of importance, as an
entrance to the island ; and from remains of fortifi-
cations, in which the peculiarities of Rowan work-
manship are observable, it may be supposed that
the port was in the possession of that people. Some
antiquaries, are, however, of opinion that it was not
fortified till the sixth century, when its site was the
scene of an Irish invasion, attended by unusual acts
of cruelty. At that period, also, a religious house
is said to have been erected ; which was not the
house for canons regular, founded by Hwfa ap
Cynddelw, and called the College. The head of
the latter was one of the three spiritual lords of
Anglesey, and was styled rector. The church is a
handsome embattled structure, composed of a chan-
cel, nave, aisles, and transept, with a square tower,
surmounted by aspire ; but contains nothing worthy
of notice, except some grotesque figures, and an
inscription:—" SANCTA KUB : ORA PRO
NOBIS. " The form of the church yard wall is
quadrangular, and of great antiquity. Three sides
are massive ; six feet thick, and seventeen in height ;
the fourth, which is open to the harbour, has only a
low parapet, laid on the edge of a precipice. At
each angle, is a circular bastion tower ; and along
the walls are two rows of round openings. In
1745, a school was founded ; and, an assembly room
and baths have been lately established. The length
of the passage from Holyhead to Dublin is twenty
leagues, which the packets generally perform in
twelve hours. The harbour, which is formed by the
cliffs under the church-yard, and an island called,
Ynys Cybi,'becomes dry at ebb-tide, to remedy
whicb, a pier has been projected, to enable vessels
to ride in four fathom water. Another improvement
is the formation of a new road from Cadnant island,
near Bangor Ferry to the port, by which the dis-
tance is diminished, seven miles ; and many hills
are avoided. A new light-house, also, has beeu
erected on a small island, called the South Stack,
The promontory, strictly called the Head, is an
immense precipice, formed by a mass of rocks,
among which are several spacious and magnificent
caves : one, especially, called the parliament house,
affords a striking specimen of the action of sea-water
upon the soluble parts of stratified rocks. Here,
the dangerous occupation of egg-taking is pursued
by the indigent inhabitants : the promontory abound-
ing with pigeons, gulls, razor-bills, ravens, guille-
mots, cormorants, and herons. The greater part of
this dissevered member of Anglesey consists of
barren rocks, or dreary sands ; and in the parish
of Rhoscolyn, which forms its southern division, is
a quarry of marble, which contains brittle asbestos.
The great road is carried over a bridge, called from
the ford, formerly at that place, Rhyd y Pont.
LIANDONNA.] — Llandonna, so called from Dona,
a reputed saint of the eighth century, is in the vicinity
of a precipitous hill, called Burdd Arthur, (Arthur's
round table) on which are vestiges of ancient forti-
cation. These are a deep fosse, between two lofty
valla of rude stones ; and the oval foundations of
buildings within the area. In a deep ravine, near
the church, also are two circular mounts, supposed
to have been thrown up by the Danes. — Not far dis-
tant, is a church, called Llanfihangel Din Sihvy,
and, two miles off, that of Llanjestyn, celebrated
for a tomb of curious workmanship, on which is the
portraiture of a man, in a cowl and cassock, with a
sash and cord, and an inscribed scroll : Hie jacet
sanctus Yestmus cui Gwenllian Jitia Madoc et Gryffit
ap Gwillyn, optulit in iblacem istam imaginem, p.
salute ammarum ; but this reading is contested. —
Traeth Coch, (Red Wharf) two miles distant, is a
IcTrge bay, with a firm sandy beach, where vessels
usually take in cargoes of limestone.
LLANDYSSILIO,] — The small church of Llandys-
silio, singularly situated on a rocky peninsula, is
surrounded by a few acres of land, which are isolated
at high water, and afford pasturage for a small
number of sheep. The time for the public celebra-
tion of divine service is therefore to be adapted to
the state of the tide, as at Llangwyfan, and other
places on the island. — Gorphvvysfa, a handsome
modern mansion, the occasional residence of Lord
Lncan, is pleasantly situated on an eminence above
Porthaethwy. The latter place is the most fre-
quented ferry over the -Menai ; and the number of
horses, carriages, people and cattle, which pass, is
prodigiously great. The scene here, on the passage
of cattle, is curious and affecting. The beasts are
driven into the sea, and express their uneasiness
under the novel exertion of swimming, by plunging
and uttering loud cries. Persons attend in boats on
each side, goading them forward, and endeavouring
to keep them in a direct line for the opposite shore 3
where, on their arrival, hundreds of the poor animals
lie
WALES.
627
lie down exhausted ; while tbe rest appear by their
gestures, wild rather than domestic creatures ; to-
gether exhibiting a spectacle, distressing in the
extreme. This evil is about to find a remedy in the
construction of a bridge over the straits. The first
stone has recently been laid. Its completion will
establish a perfect communication between England
and Ireland, through North Wales. The design is
by Mr. Telford ; and the bridge is on the suspension
principle: the centre opening is to be five hundred
and sixty-feet between the points of suspension,
and five hundred feet at the level of high-water line ;
the road to be one hundred feet above the highest
spring tide, and to be divided into two carriage-
ways, of twelve feet each, and a foot-way between
them of four feet. lu addition there are to be three
stone-arches of fifty feet each, on tbe Carnarvonshire
shore, and four of the same dimensions on the An- ;
glesey side. It is estimated to cost 70,000/. and it |
will probably take three years in completion.
LLANDDWYN.] — Llanddwyn, the frontier parish to !
Newborough, towards the sea, forms a kind of pe-
ninsula, where, on a sandy flat, surrounded by
rocks, was an oratory of St. Dwynwen, a religious
person of the fifth century, and the British Venus,
who is thus apostrophised by Dafydd aj> G wy Him,
the bard of Bro ginin. " Dwynwen, fair as the
hoary tears of morning, thy golden image in its
ehoir, illumined with waxen torches, well knows
how to heal the pains of yonder cross-grained mor-
tals. A wight that watches within thy choir, blest
is his happy labour, tliou splendid beauty ! with
afflictions or with tortured mind, shall none return
from Llanddwyn. " Here was, subsequently, an
abbey founded for Benedictine monks, the revenues
of which, produced, chiefly, by the shrine of the
saint, constituted one of the richest prebends, be-
longing to the cathedral of Bangor. — The ferry, from
near this place to Carnarvon, called the Aberraenai,
is nearly two miles in length, and is distinguished by
its difficulties and uncommon danger. Formerly, it
was the property of the crown, but like the other
ferries of the Menai, was granted by Henry VIII.
to Robert Giflbrd, one of the sewers of his chambers,
who let them, on a term, to William Bulkeley. In
his descendants, this alone continues : the others
having been alienated. The passage across most
of them is far from safe ; but, in the chapter of acci- .
dents, the Abermenai is distinguished. Here in
December, 1785, the boat having been grounded on
one of the sand-banks which bound the channel,
fifty-five passengers were left exposed to the fury of
the returning tide, when all perished ; except one
individual, who was saved by binding himself to the
mast, and by his dexterity in swimming. Tal y foel
(the bald headland) another of these ferries, is re-
lated to have been, in tbe twelfth century, tbe scene
of a sea-fight, which is celebrated by Gwalchmai,
in terms which indicate the alliance of three great
powers, against his devoted country : " Three le-
gions the vessels of the torrent brought ; three grand
and first of fleets, bent on quick assault. One from
the west green iale ; another teeming with armed
ones of the man of Llochlin, long burdens of the
flood ; tbe third over the sea from Normandy with
mighty bustle came, and unpropitious fate." It is
true no authenticated mention is made of such a
combination of Irish, Manks and Normans ; whence
we are to suppose, that the narrator used a poetical
licence to describe them collectively.
LLANEDWEX. — Ibree miles from Newborough,
north-eastward, is Llanedwen, noted as the birth-
place and sepulchre of Rowlands, the learned author
of Mono Antiqun Restaurata, who was instituted to
the vicarage in 1690. Near this place is Mod y don
(the bin of the wave) one of the ferries over tbe
Menai, by which the Romans entered the island,
under Agricola ; and where tbe forces of Edward I.
in 1282, met a signal defeat. On this occasion, tbe
king having landed his men, began to build a bridge
of boats ; and dispatched .some troops over it, at
low water, while yet unfinished ; but the Welsh,
having waited for the flowing of the tide, suddenly
burst from an ambush ; and, killing some and forcing
others into the sea, destroyed a great number. —
Near the Menai, among groups of the once sacred
grove of the Bards, stands Plas Newydd, the seat
of the Earl of Uxbridge. It is a modern structure
of great elegance, composed of a centre and two
wings, surmounted by an embattled par»pet, and
octangular turrets. The inside, like the exterior, is
in the gothic taste ; and exhibits a profusion of
arched doors, niches, lancet-windows, and minute
decorations of all kinds. Tbe pictures are rather
numerous ; and tbe library is well chosen. The
chapel is decorated with stained glass ; and tbe
ensemble built of marble, from Redwharf Bay, is
well designed, chaste in its decorations, and digni-
fied in its effect. Nor is the surrounding scenery
unworthy of such a structure. Large and venerable
oak and ash trees form a thick wood, which covers
the elevated ground behind, as well as on both sides ;
and leaves nothing open, but a sloping lawn termi-
nated by a terrace, which is defended from tbe sea
by a parapeted bastion wall. On this demesne, the
boundaries of the liquid element are perpendicular
cliffs, of red and white limestone. The views, con-
sequently, are both extensive, and magnificent. The
stables are built, at a convenient distance, in the
same taste as tbe house. The park is not extensive,
but exhibits considerable diversity. At a small dis-
tance from the house, are two cromlechs ; one of
which, said to be the largest in the kingdom, consists
of an inclined tabular stone, thirteen feet long, eleven
broad, and four thick, supported by six uprights,
six feet from the ground. This parish, indeed, with
the neighbouring villages of Llanidan and L'.and-
dciniel, includes a district, supposed, fram many
concurring circumstances and substantial indica-
tions, to nave been the principal seat of tbe Bardish
religion. At Bodowyr is a cromlech, the table-stone
of which, resting on three strong supporters, is in
shape
628
WALES.
shape a truncated cone, seven feet long, six broad,
and six thick. Numerous stone circles, here and at
Tref-wry, areso overgrown with weeds and brambles,
as to render their precise form and number indistinct.
The grand seat of the arch-druid appears to have
•been at Tre'r Dryvv, where Mr. Pennant met with
the mutilated remains of the Jirein Gaya, or Royal
tribunal, a circular hollow, one hundred and eighty
feet in diameter, surrounded by an immense agger of
earth and stones, •with no more than a single entrance.
LLANELIAN. — The church of Llauelian, by no
means an inelegant structure, bears a singular ap-
pearance in Anglesey, having a tower, surmounted
by a spire. In a chapel, apparently older than the
church, and no more than fifteen feet long, called
y Myfyr ('the place of meditation,) is a polygonal
closet called St. Elian's, in which is a chest, with
an interstice to receive the offerings of the pious.
Near the sacred building, was once a Llys (palace)
of Caswallon Law Hir, a hero celebrated in the
Triads, who, at the intercession of St. Elian,
granted considerable privileges and immunities to
the church ; and, among others, that of sanctuary.
His charter, for the tenure of the church lands, con-
firmed by several English kings, still exists, and,
what is more extraordinary, remains in force. About
twenty years since, a deep tre.nch was discovered in
the church-yard, about twenty yards long, and
nearly fi^-ed with human bones; whence it may be sup-
posed to have been the scene of a destructive battle.
LLANERCHYMKDD.]— At the distance of about fif-
teen miles from Beaumaris, north-westward, is Llan-
tircliymedd, a considerable town, supported, chieHy,
by its market, and the vicinity of the Parys mine.
In the parish are the extensive woods of Llygwy,
the property of Lord Boston, in which is a large
cromlech, with several circles, composed of upright
stones. Between the town and Amlwch, also, are
several ridges of the green Asbestine slate ; one of
aggregate rock,, .containing quartz, iron, foliated
.magnesia, and clay ; a third species, composed of
bi;eceias and lime, in a clay-cement ; and lime, in a
clay cement ; and, lastly, several ranges of limestone
and breccia. The whole country bears evident
.marks of former inundation.
. LLANFAIR-PWLL GWYNGYLL.] — In this parish, near
the shore,, is the site of an ancient British fortification ;
and, nearly opposite, are the Swelly rocks, which
form horrible breakers, and strong eddies, pre-
senting formidable obstacles to the navigation of
.large vessels.
LLANFAIRMATHAFEKN-/EITHAF.] — This place gave
birth, in 1,722, to Gordnw Owen,* a man inferior in
talents to none that Anglesey, or perhaps, Wales
has ever produced. — In the church-yard, is a mo-
dern carnedd, the sepulchre of a Mr. Wynne, com-
posed of a rude heap of stones, five feet high, twelve
wide, and eighteen long. In the centre is the large
stump of an old tree ; and, near the south end, this
tomb, sui generis, is shaded by an immense yew tree.
Beneatli the heap is a cavern, the entrance of which
is secured by a large stone.
LLANFAIR YNGHORNWY.] — In the parisli of Llan-
fair-Ynghornwy, is a stratum of. serpentine marble,
which contains narrow veins of a white silky asbes-
tine substance, of a filmy appearance, and very
fragile. A mile from the village is one of the ancient
monuments called meini hirion, composed of three
large upright stones, which, placed five hundred
yards apart, form an equilateral triangle. In the
vicinity are two circular encampments ; and, in the
neighbouring parish of Llanilewyn, some years ago,
were discovered three golden bracelets, and a bulla ;
which last (ras an amulet, worn round the neck by
the children of the wealthier class of Roman citizens.
LLANFECHELL.] — In the parish of Llanfechell,
adjacent to Amlwch, is a large fallen cromlech ; and
a quarry of curious and beautiful marble, resembling
Verde di Corsica, the variegated colours of which
are black, dull purple, and different shades of green,
irregularly disposed, and sometimes intersected by
white asbestine veins. — In front of the village of
Llahrhwydrus, lies Ynys y Moel Rhoniad, or the
Isle of Seals, commonly called the Skerries, about
half a league from the, shore. This island resembles
Priestholm, in its native and periodical inhabitants ;
but is distinguished by a light-house, erected iti
1730, notwithstanding which, wrecks are frequent
on the coast. — Carreg Lwyd, a good mansion, sur-
rounded by luxuriant plantations, is the residence
of Holland Griffith, Esq.
LLANFIHANGEL TRE'K BARDD.] — This place de-
rived its distinctive appellation from having been a
station of the Druids, whose remains consist of a
" shapely cromlech," lying on its three supporters ;
a small one, in ruins ; and a third, which appears to
have been double : the two flat- incumbent stones,
with several massy supporters, lying prcslratc in a
disorderly manner, one upon another.
L.LANGADWALADER.] — Iii'the cliurch of this Village,
founded by, and named from, Cadwalader, lust king1
of the Britans, is a stone, inscribed, but so oblite-
rated by time, as to be almost illegible. Rowlands
gives the inscription,
CATAMANUS REX ftApiENrissiMcs OP-INATJSSIMPS
OMNIUM REGUM.
* The father of Goronw was a husbandman ; and he probab'v
had " wasted his sweetness on the desert air," but that, stealing
to school, he displayed such uncommon abilities as, to attract the
attention of Mr. Lewis Morris, who sent him lo Oxford, and
remained his steady friend through lite. For many years, did
he struggle with the ills of povert* in England ; and then
sought repose in the New Woild, where he probably died. His
attainments embraced seveial oriental tongues ; he was a good
antiquary, and a favourite ot the muses. His Latin odes, par-
ticularly, are admired for their purity and elegance. As a
Welsh poet, he ranks superior to all since the days of Dafjdd
ap Gwillytn. His poems consist chiefly of odes, moral and
religious, umong which his Search after Happiness, and his
Day of Judgment, are distinguished for their iiib.imity. The
last notice of his existence was an elegy, dated Willianisburg in
Virginia, 1767, composed on his patron, Morris.
and
WALES.
029
and supposes it (o have been commemorative of
Catamiinns, or Cadfan, the grandfather of the foun-
der.— Bodorgan, a handsome mansion, situated in
a park, well stocked with deer and timber, is the
residence of Owen Putland Meyric, Esq. designed
by Deftard.
LLANGEFNI.] — The village of Llangefni, situated
in-a beautiful vale, on the mail road to Holy head, is
one among numerous instances of the improving
condition of the island. • A few years since its name
was borne by a single house, near the bridge over
the Cei'ni. It is now a well-built town, with a'
church, two meeting-houses, two good inns, shops
of every description, and a weekly market, the best
attended and supplied in Anglesey. In this parish
is Tre-garnedd, now a farm-house, but once the
residence of Ednyfed Fychan, the able councillor
and minister of Llewelyn the Great. At this place,
also, was born the grandson of Fychan, Sir-Grit^
fydd Llwyd, who was knighted by Edward I., and
did homage for his estates, but, feeling or supposing
some injustice, and regretting his country's wrongs,
he headed a revolt in 1322, suffered a defeat, retreated
to and fortified his house, was taken prisoner, and
at last executed.
LLANGRISTIOLIS.] — About the middle of the 17th
century was born at Llangristiolis, Dr. Henry Mau-
rice*, a learned divine, whose father was curate of
the parish. In the neighbourhood, Malldraeth, an
arm of the sea, which flows far up into the land,
constitutes a curious geological phenomenon. This
irruptive member of the ocean extends from Llan-
ddwyn point toLlangefni bridge, a distance of fifteen
miles ; and is flanked by two ranges of limestone,
which run in the same line of bearing. Its channel
is supposed to 'have been formed by a body of water,
enclosed in an expansive bottom on. the north-east
side of the island ; and various embankments have
been made for the desirable purpose of redeeming
it to the service of man : hitherto without permanent
effect. The line of depression abounds with coal,
the veins of which are thick, and of excellent quality.
These are wrought, under the auspices, principally,
of the Earl of Uxbridge : a work the more bene-
ficial to- the island, because coals were, and even
still continue, extravagantly dear.
LLANIDAN.] — The parish church of Llanidan once
belonged to the monastery of Beddgelert, in Car-
narvonshire ; and is visited for two curiosities : one,
a sepulchral vase, formed of grit-stone, with a
pyramidal cover ; the other, a stone, called Maen
Morddwyd, noticed by Giraldus, and included in
the wall. — Plas Llanidan, a seat, formerly, of Lord
* He became at sixteen a servitor of Jesus College, Ox-
ford, and having distinguished himself, was selected by the
principal, Sir Leoline Jenkins, to attend him in his embassy to
Cologne. On his return he was patronized by Lloyd, bishop
of St. Asaph, Lichfidd, and Worcester, and" obtained good
preferment. He engaged with, and overcame, David Clark-
son, in a controversy on the existence of Diocesan Episcopacy,
TOL. IV. — NO. 188,
Boston, and now the residence of Owen Williams,
Esq. is finely situated on a wooded eminence, near
the Menai. A late possessor of this house was Mr
Thomas Williams, a man who, by the mere force of
mental energy, raised himself from an humble to aa
exalted station in society. f In the neighbourhood,
Porthamel (the gloomy ferry) so called from the
thick woods which anciently darkened the shore, is
famous for the landing of Julius Agricola ; and a
tumulus, in a field, is supposed to be the place
whence the druids snatched firebrands, and where
they were immolated after their defeat. On the top
of Gvvydrynhill is a semicircular fortified post, called
Caer Idris, guarded by a triple foss and vallum.
LLANTRISANT.] — In the church of Llantrisant is a
handsome monument to the memory of Dr. Hugh
Williams, a descendant of the British chieftain,
Cadrod Hardd, and the ancestor of the Wynnstay
family. He was also the father of Sir William Wil-
liams, a distinguished character, in the reigns of
Charles II. and his brother. — Presaddfed, the seat
of Sir John Bulkeley,. occupies the site of an ancient
mansion, the residence of llwfa ap Cynddelw. At
a small distance, in afield, are two large cromlechs :
one erect, the other prostrate ; of nearly equal di-
mensions ; namely, thirteen feet in length, nine in
breadth, and supported by three others six, feet in,
height. On an adjacent eminence, also, is an up-
right stone, nine feet high, called Llech-gwen-
farwyd, whence the parish derived its name.
NEWBOROUGH.] — The market town, Newborough,
was anciently called Rhos-vair ; and was a royal
residence of the North-Wallian princes. Edward I.
constituted the inhabitants a corporation ; and,
although it is no longer represented in parliament*
it continues to be governed by a mayor, recorder,
and two bailiffs, with assistant officers. In the vici-
nity of what has been called the domestic chapel of
the palace, is an upright stono, bearing an inscrip-
tion, supposed to be the funeral monument of a
chieftain, named Curricinus, or Ulricus, erected by
his son. Newbrough was the birth-place and the
residence of John Morgan, a blind music-inn, the
last who played upon <he crwth.
PENMYNNYDD.] — In the church of Penmynnydd,
is a magnificent -monument of alabaster, removed
from Llanvaes priory, and supposed to belong to
the Tudor family, who were interred there. Oa
this tomb are two recumbent figures of a man ia
armour, and a woman in ancient costume. Pen-
mynnydd will be ever famous as the residence of
the Tudors ; and as the birth-place of Owen np
Meredydd ap Tudor, commonly called Owen Tu-
in the primitive times, and tiled, in I6yi, immediately after
his appointment to the rectory of Newington.
f This gentleman, at first a manager, and afterwards a con-
siderable partner in the farys mine, must be accounted the
principal organ of that undertaking. liis unremitting industry
was amply rewarded : he left at his death nearly half a million
sterling, and had no fewer than five country ;e.its. He died
at Bath in 1801, at the age of 66, and was interred at Llanidan.
7 u dor.
030
WALES.
dor.* — Penrhos-Lygwy will be dear to the admirer
of genius, as the birth-place of the celebrated Bri-
tish antiquary, and eminent poet, Lewis Morris. t
PENTRAF.TH.] — Pentraeth, pleasantly situated, as
4ts name imports, at the head of the sands, has a
small church, embosomed, in a picturesque manner,
in ash and sycamore trees. At the distance of half
a mile is Plas Gwyn, the seat of Paul Panton, Esq.
a neat structure, distinguished for its library, an
invaluable treasure of Welsh manuscripts. In a
field, are two upright stones, nearly fifty feet apart,
of which it is related that they are the limits of a
leap, by which, centuries ago, Ernion ap Gwalch-
mai, obtained his wife. Some, however, suggest,
•with more probability, that they are the remains of
a druidical monument.
TREGAIAN.] — Tregaian is noticed as the birth-
place of William ap Howel ap Jorwerth, called the
Welsh patriarch, who lived in the 16th century,
and died at the advanced age of one hundred and
five. He was remarkable for his numerous issue.
His first wife bore him twenty-two children ; the
second, ten ; the third, four ; and two concubines
bore him four ; in all forty-three. From this stock
descended, during the father's life, no fewer than
three hundred persons ; eighty of whom lived in the
neighbourhood. In 1581, when his youngest son
Was only two years and a half old, his eldest was
eighty-four : so that from the birth of the first to
the last child, an interval elapsed of nearly eighty -
two years. Between Tregaian and Llonerchymedd,
in the 12th century, was fought a decisive battle
between Owen Gwynedd and an invading army of
Erse. Manks, and Normans, in which the former
was victorious.
CARNARVONSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.] — The county of Carnar-
von, of an irregular figure, bounded on the east by
Denbighshire, on the south by Merionethshire, and
the bay of Cardigan ; and on its remaining sides,
by the bays of Carnarvon and Beaumaris, and the
Menai straits ; extends in length about forty-five
miles; but its breadth, which is extremely various,
is in no part more than fourteen, and in some not
more than seven miles. Its superficial contents stand
* He was born in J385, and studied in London ; after which
lie travelled. Returning, he was introduced to Catherine, the
widow of Henry V. and, being an active gentleman, " comely
in person, and courtley in behaviour," commanded to dance
in her presence; but in footing it, down he slipped ; and, un-
able to recover himself, fell into her lap, as she sat on a stool,
admiring his agility. Their offspring, three sons, and one
daughter, were ennobled by Henry VI. Edmund was made
Earl of Richmond, and became father of Henry VII. and
Jasper was created Earl of Pembroke. The rest died yeung.
After the queen's death, Owen was committed to close .con-
finement ; but was, at length, liberated, at the intercession, it
is supposed, of his sons. At the battle, near Mortimer's Cross,
he appears valiantly fighting for the red rose; but in this san-
guinary conflict, he was taken prisoner, and beheaded by the
Yorkists, according to the barbarous custom of those days.
computed at 300,000 >rcres ; 160,000 of which are
in a state of cultivation : the remainder is irreclaim-
able waste. It is divided into hundreds, ten in
number ; and contains one city, Bangoj- ; one bo-
rough, Carnarvon ; four market towns, Aberconway,
Nevin, Crickeith and Pwllheli ; and sixty-eight
villages. The aspect of the county is mountain-
ous ; the vales are, for the most part, narrow ; and
the heights, precipitous. The principal of these
form tue Snowdonian chain ; distinguished by its
Alpine features, ravines, rapid torrents, and nume-
rous lakes. They, nevertheless, afford ample sus-
tenance, during summer, for vast herds of cattle
and sheep ; the owners of which reside, during the
season, in temporary huts, and subsist on the pro-
duce of their dairies. Though Carnarvonshire can
boast no navigable river, except a partial claim to
the Conwy, it is watered 1>y numerous streams,
which are considerable enough to give beauty as
well as fertility to the scene. Its natural produc-
tions are found in mines of lead and copper, in some
excellent quarries of slate ; and in plentiful crops
of oats and barley. The horned cattle are smaller
than those of Anglesey ; the sheep are very diminu-
tive, and not unlike the Merino breed ; goats are
reared, but not in such numbers as formerly ; the
swine resemble those of Ireland, being tall and
meagre ; few domestic fowls are kept ; and, indeed
the farmers are chiefly dairy-men; making their
rents from the sale of butter, wool, and lambs. It
would be unjust not to observe that agriculture
here, formerly at so low an ebb, has been much im-
proved ; and that, consequently, the quantity of
produce has been augmented. The employment of
the poorer inhabitants, in summer and winter, after
the necessary attention to their cattle and domestic
concerns, is carding and spinning the wool of their
own flocks, from which they manufacture large
quantities of cloth and stockings, as well as of a
kind of stuff called linsey-woolsey. In these, there-
fore, and in the exportation of a few natural pro-
ducts, as slates, potatoes, &c. but, especially, of
black -cattle, the trade of the county has its origin.
Carnarvonshire received from the Romans the nume
Venedotia ; and, at a subsequent period it was called
Gwynedd, in common with four of the neighbouring'
His remains were carried to Hereford; and there interred, in (lie
church of Grey Friars.
f This extraordinary genius was born in 1702, in an hunille
station; and made his entrance into life, as an exciseman. His
abilities, becoming known, procured him several important
trusts: the surveyi rship of the crown lands, the collectorship
of the customs; and the superintendence of the royal mines in
Wales. Notwithstanding which multifarious occupations he
contrived to find time for study and writing. His works are
a Hydrographical Survey of the sea coast of Wales, Celtic
Remains, some poetical compositions inserted in the " Didda-
nioch Teulaidd," and above eighty volumes of manuscript,
in Welsh, which are now deposited in the library, belonging
to the Welsh charity-school, situated in Gray's Inn Lane, Lon-
don. He died at his residence, Penbryn, Cardiganshire,
April 11, 1765.
counties
WALES.
631
counties. It derived its name Arfon from being
situated opposite to Mon : quasi, supra Mvnam : for
that is its literal meaning ; and the prefix Caer, de-
signating the town, was extended to the whole dis-
trict of which it is the capital. In the protracted
endeavours of Romans, Saxons, Normans, and
English for the entire subduction of the country,
this was the scene of continued and desperate con-
tention, because the last retreat of unconquered
freedom,
The Briton's last resource — his mountains hear-
Where weeping freedom from the contest (led,
And Cambria saw her dearest heroes dead.
Those tremendous fastnesses, which thus formed the
last bulwark of liberty, were anciently denominated
Creigiau 'r Eryri ; but, subsequently, by the Eng-
lish, Suowdon. The former term is evidently de-
rived from Eryr, an eagle ; and Creigiau 'r Eryri is,
literally, the eagle-rocks. — The honorial history of
Carnarvonshire is brief: The county town gives the
title of Earl to a younger branch of the noble house
of Pembroke ; and Gwydir that of Baron to the
family of Burrell ; but there is a distinction which
pertains to the whole male population, under the
denomination of Breinniau g&'y Arfan, or the pri-
vileges of the men of Arfon. These were granted
by Rhun apMaelgwyniu the 6th century, on account
of eminent services performed by the inhabitants of
Carnarvonshire, and their long absence from their
•wives and families, in his war with the Northern
Saxons. They are fourteen in number : " first,
priority over a wife ; that is, priority in the choice
of the horses, and his swine, and his geese ; and a
car, with two oxen, that he likes of his cattle : and
the car full of the furniture, that he may like. The
second is, to have the lead of Gwynedd in warfares.
The third is, that he shall not pay the damage of
his animal, (exemption from toll.) The fourth is,
to fix the boundaries of all the districts that shall
join to Arfon : Tie fifth is, if there should be a dis-
pute between two townships, out of the nine, that
are in Arfoo, the seven shall end the dispute of the
two, without the interference of any from elsewhere.
The sixth is, that there shall be no serjeant (beadle
or bailiff) therein. The seventh, that there be
liberty of fishing in common, in the three rivers
which are there. The eighth, that they shall not
be tied to the hand-mill. The ninth, that they shall
not be obliged to use the nearest mill. The tenth,
that they shall not drink half-fermented liquor. The
eleventh, that there is IM> advantage to be taken of
their pleadings before the third word of error. The
twelfth, there shall be no payment towards the horses
of guests, or of persons (mkistrels) on circuit. The
thirteenth, that they shall not be obliged to go to
another lodging out of the hall (of their prince.) The
fourteenth, whoever shall be settled therein for a
year and a day, if he should be an undomicittated
person, he shall have the same rights as a person
of the country. And if there shall be any one who
shall call in question any of these privileges, the
brotherhood of Bangor, and those of Beuno, shall
i maintain them."
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
ABKR.] — The peasant and celebrated village of
Abur, situated on the road between Abercunway and
Bangor, at the distance of five miles from the latter,
I is discovered in a deep glen, the extremity of which
is the concave front of a mountain, washed by a
cataract of sixty feet, perpendicular height. Near
the village is a mount, formerly the site of a castle,
inhabited by Llewelyn the Great. Aber is noted,
also, for its ferry to Anglesey, and its vicinity to
the vast promontory of Penmaen Mawr.
ABERDARON.] — Nearly at the extremity of the
rocky peninsula, which forms the southern division
of the county, at the bottom of a small bay, is Aber-
daron, the church of which was formerly much
resorted to by pilgrims to Bardsey, had the privilege
of sanctuary, and is even still distinguished by its
handsome appearance. From this place, across a
rapid current, is the often dangerous, ;md always
difficult passage to the once famous Bardsey, or
Isle of Bards. Here was formerly an abbey, sup-
posed to have been founded in the 6th century, the
site of which is merely discfiverable by numerous
graves, lined with stone, and a large building, said
to have been the abbots' lodge, now occupied in
tenements by several of the rustic inhabitants. A
ruined chapel, or oratory, not far distant, is a long
vaulted room with an isolated stone altar, where,
in bad weather, one o!' the natives reads the liturgy
of the established church. The island, which is
now the property of Lord Newborough, is about two
miles in length, by one in breadth ; and in about one
mile from the main-land. It comprises about three
hundred end seventy acres of land, of which nearly
oiie third is a mountainous ridge, affording food for
a few sheep and rabbits. To the south-east and
south-west, it is much exposed ; butitis sheltered,
on the north and north-east, by the above elevation ;
which, on its sea-front, presents perpendicular and
overhanging cliff's, where the hazardous trade of
egg-taking is followed. The soil is fertile, pro-
ducing good barley and wheat; the number of inha-
bitants is about severity ; and the amount of rental
is one hundred guineas. About fifteen miles off",
near the promontory of Penrhyn Du, are two small
islands, called St. Tudwal's, to whom a small chapel
on one of them, was dedicated.
BANSOR.] — Bangor, situated in a narrow valley,
between ridges of rocks, which open to the Menai,
derived its name from Bun, superior, and Co/, a
society ; to which the suffix tawr, great, was added,
to distinguish it from Bangor Iscoed^ in Flintshire.
Its existence appears to be of high antiquity, though
its history is totally unknown, till the year 523, when
Deiniol founded here a monastery, which was fur-
ther endowed by JVIaelgwyn Gwynedd in the same
century. The celebrated Hugh, Earl of Chester,
erected
632
WALES.
erected here a castle, upon a precipitous hill near
the Menai, the foundations of which are yet visible.
The diocese of Bangor arose out of the monastic
institution, and owed its establishment ta Malegwyn
Gwyuedd, who appointed Deiniid, its first bishop.
What the original extent of its jurisdiction was,
dors not appear; at present it comprises the whole
of Anglesey and Carnarvon, except four parishes,
half ot Merionethshire, fourteen parishes in Den-
bighshire, and seven in the county of Montgomery.
The chapter consists of twelve dignitaries: the
dean, namely, the bishop, as archdeapon of Bangor ;
the bishop, as archdeacon of Anglesey ; the arch-
- deacon of Merioneth ; the prebendaries of Llanfair
and Penmynydd ; the treasurer, the chancellor, the
precentor, and three canons ; of whom the last five
are only titular-, and, . therefore, termed nikil pre-
bends. Two vicars choral perform the service of the
choir; and four lay singing men, four choristers,
and ten children wear surplices, assist in chanting,
and receive two pounds per annum each. — -The
cathedral of Bangor was destroyed in 1071, by the
English ,' when King John invaded Wales, in 1210,
he seized the bishop Robert of Shrewsbury, before
the high altar, and compelled him to pay for his
liberation a fine of two hundred hawks ; it suffered
again during the reigns of Henry III. and Henry
IV. and, in 1402 it was laid in ruins by the insur-
gents, under Owen Glyndvvr. In 1492, bishop
I)ean rebuilt the choir ; the body and steeple were
erected in 1532, by Bishop Skiffington. This edi-
fice, situated in a large court, surrounded by a wall,
on one side of which is an avenue, comprises a choir,
iiuve," transept, two aisles, and a square tower at
the west end, which, but for the death of the foun-
der, would have been raised to double its present
height. The choir, transept, and tower, have an
embattled parapet ; and the last is surmounted by a
croi-keted pinnacle at each angle. The windows of
the nave, transept, and chancel are in the pointed
style ; the rest are semicircular. The simple uni-
formity of the original plan has been marred, by the
addition on the north side, of a consistorial court,
chapter-house, and library. The dimensions are as
follow :
Feet.
Length, from east to west 214.
• of the tower 19
— of the nave 141
of the choir C3
of the cross ais'es, from north to south, 96
Breadth of the nave and side aisles 60
Height of the nave 34
of ihe tower 60
Square of the tower 24
The windows were once adorned with stained glass ;
but these were destroyed during the civil wars of
Ciiarles I. The east window, however, retains some
fragments ; among which are figures of St. Ambrose
and Augustine, and of Bishops Dean and Skiffing-
ton ; and recently, the ornaments of other windows
| have been renovated. The pointed arches which
separate the nave from the aisles rest on octangular
fluted columns. The monuments ^are few, and of
minor interest. Prince Griffydd ap Cynan was
| buried here, in 1137; and beneath an arch in the south
transept is the effigies of Owen Gwynedd, king of
North Wales, Avho died in 1161. Several of the
prelates are here entombed. An inscription on a
black marble slab, to the memories of Bishops Vaug-
han and Rowlands, attests their virtues, and con-
cludes with a monitory distich :
Orirmir, vicissim morimur,
Qui non precesserunt sequuntur.
In the library, i* a curious manuscript, intituled
Liber Pontificalis Dni Anniani Bangor Episcopi, a
moderate-sized folio, containing a missal, which
includes besides the Rubric, thirty-two offices, with
numerous anthems, set to music for the use of the
church and diocese : the whole drawn up by Bishop
Anian, with the consent of the clergy, at a synod
convened in 1291. — The free-school of Bangor,
formerly a monastery of Friars Preachers, founded
by Tudor ap Gronw, in 1299, is a neat structure of
brick, with all suitable offices, at a short distance
from the city. The Hospital owes its establishment
to Bishop Rowlands, who bequeathed an estate in
land for the endowment of an alms-house for six
poor men. In 1809, the loyal inhabitants of Ban-
gor celebrated the fiftieth anniversary of his Ma-
jesty's reign, by a laudable subscription for the
establishment of a Dispensary, where the poor
should be supplied with medicine, and medical
advice, gratis. The building erected for this purpose,
called "The Carnarvonshire and Anglesey Loyal
Dispensary," is a small neat structure on the Lon-
don road. The palace, rebuilt by Bishop Skiffing-
ton, in the sixteenth century, is situated on a flat,
below the cathedral ; and has been recently much
improved by the alterations and 'additions of Dr.
Majendie. — The town of Bangor consists' of one
long street, situated in a narrow valley, "with a fine
opening to the Menai. The houses are well-built ;
and, being roofed with slate, assume a neat ap-
pearance. Its ancient extent was considerable ;
as foundations of houses are frequently discovered
in ploughing between the present city and Bangor
ferry. At present the cheapness of all the neces-
saries of life, the beauty and diversity of the scenery,
the vicinity to the sea, and the passage of the great
road between London and Dublin, render Bangor,
peculiarly eligible ; as a place of residence.
BEDDOELF.RT.] — Near the conflux of the Colwyn
and the Glasllyn, seven miles from Llanberis, east-
ward, is situated the small village of Beddgelert,
embosomed in mountains, and distinguished by the
neatness of its church.* Here was formerly a
* A tradition makes Llewelyn the Great, the Founder of the church and the monastery; and that, under circumstances,
as
WALES.
C3-1
priory, supposed the oldest monastic house in Wales.
In the neighbourhood, are two small pools, and the
fine expansive sheet called Llyn Cawellyn, one mile
and a half long, and half as broad, which abounds
with the delicious red char, peculiar to Alpine lakes.
One end of this is bounded by a vast precipice,
called Mynydd Mawr, on the summit of which
stands Castell Cidwm, an ancient fort.— Not far
distant is Nant, a pleasant seat of Sir Robert Wil-
liams, Bart, surrounded by the most romantic
scenery. — North-eas ward from Beddgelert, the
mountainous district, in the immediate vicinity of
Snowdon, may be entered by a romantic vale or
pass, in which are several objects of strong interest.
affecting as extraordinary, which have been thus simply ver-
sified :"
BEDDGELERT:
OR, THE GREYHOUND'S GRAVE.
THE spearman heard the bugle sound.
And cheerly smil'd the morn,
And many a bracb, and many a hound,.
Attend Llewelyn's horn :
And still he blew a louder blast,
And gave a louder cheer ;
" Come Gelert, why art thou the last,
" Llewelyn's horn to hear f
" O where does faithful Gelert roam ^
" The flower of all his race ;
" So true, so brave : a lamb at home,
" A lion in the chace."
Twas only at Llewelyn's board.
The faithful Gelert fed ;
He watchM, he serv'd, he eheer'd his lord»
And eentinel'd his bed.
In sooth, he was a peerless hound
The gift of royal John* ;
But now no Gelert could be found.
And all the chace rode on.
And now as over rocks and dells
The gallant chidings rise,
All Snowdon's craggy chaos yells
With many mingled cries.
That day Llewelyn little lov'd
The chace of hart or hare,
And scant and small the booty prov'd,
For Gelert was not there.
Unpleas'd Llewelyn homeward hied,
When, near the portal seat,
His truant Gelert he espied,
Bounding his lord to greet.
But when he gain'd his castle door*
Aghast the chieftain stood ;
The hound was smearM with gouts of gore,.
His lips and fangs ran blood !
Llewelyn gaz'd with wild surprise ;
Unus'd such looks to meet,
His favourite check'd his joyful guise,
And crouch'd, and lick'd his feet.
Onward in haste Llewelyn past,
And on went Gelert too ;
And still where'er his ryes he cast,
Fresh blood-gouts shock'd his view !
* Gelert was given to Llewelyn by King John, in 1205.
iv.— NO. 186.
Of these, Dinas Emrys, the fort of Ambrosius,
(Merlin) is a considerable area, on the summit of
a precipitous rock, the accessible part of which is
defended by large ramparts, and crowned with the
remains of a stone building, the walls' of which, ten
yards long, though raised without cement, appear
strong and durable. Two miles funler, rises, with
unwieldy bulk, YAran, under which is a romantic
hollow, denominated Cwm Llan. Several lakes
diversify the scene ; and the spot is not destitute
of wood. Near the upper part of the valley, are
two immense fragments of rock ; one of which re-
sembles, in shape, the gable end of a house, and
far exceeds in bulk the enormous Bowdar-stone of
O'ertuvn'd his infant's bed he found,
The blood-stain'd covert rent ;
And all around the walls and ground,
With recent blood besprent.
He call'd his child, no voice replied,
Hesearch'd with terror wild ;
Blood, blood he found on ev'ry side,
But no where found the child !
" Hell-hound ! by thee my child's devour'd ! '
The frantic father cried ;
And to the hilt his vengeful sword,
He plung'd in Gelert's side.
His suppliant, as to earth he fell,
No pity could impart ;
But still his Gelert's dying yell
Past heavy o'er his heart.
Arous'd by Gelert's dying yell,
Some slumberer wakened nigh;
What words the parent's joy can tell,
To hear his infant cry !
Conceal'd between a mingled heap,
His hurried search had miss'd !
All glowing from his rosy sleep,
His cherub boy he kiss'd !
No scratch had he, nor harm, nor dread j
But thesame couch beneath,
Lay a great Wolf, all torn and dead,
Tremendous still in deatli !
Ah, what was then Llewelyn's pain,
For now the truth was clear,
The gallant Hound the Wolf had slain,
To save Llewelyn's heir.
Vain, vain was all Llewelyn's woe ;.
" Best of thy kind, adieu ;
" The frantic deed which laid thee low,
" This heart shall ever rue !"
And now a gallant tomb they raise,
With costly sculpture deckt ;
And marbles storied with his praise,
Poor Gelert's bones protect.
Here never could the spearman pass,
Or forester unmov'd ;
Here oft the tear-besprinkled grass,
Llewelyn's sorrow prov'd.
And here he hung his horn, and spear ;
And oft as evening fell,
In fancy's piercing sounds would hear
Poor Gelert's dying yell !
And till great Snowdon's rocks grow old,.
And cease the storm to brave,
The consecrated spot shall hold
The name of Gelert's Grave.
7x
Bbrrowdale,
C34
WALES.
Borrowdale, in Cumberland. At its termination,
the mountain barrier has two openings; in one of
which, the lofty Shiabod is seen, to rear his towering
head of a dusky brown ; and, in the other, the double
cataract, called Cwm Dyli, bounds over several
ledges of rock with a tremendous and forceful gran-
deur.— The principal elevations of this part of the
Snowdonian chain, are Carnedd David, Carnedd
Llewelyn, Trevaen, Moel Ogwen, Moel Shiabod,
the two Llyders, Moel Llyfni, and Moel mynnydd
Nant ; all, apparently, by their towering height,
emulous to support the proud monarch of the whole,
Snowdon, with his pre-eminent summits of Crib-
y-distyll and Y Wyddfa — the dripping peak, and
the conspicuous summit. The height of the latter,
stands calculated at SHOO feet above the level of the
sea. The rocks which compose the higher part of
. the chain are chiefly of porphyry and granite ; while
the inferior strata are hornblende, many kinds of
schistus, spar, loadstone, quartz, and mica. On
the western side, are a number of basaltic columns ;
and, in the schistose rocks, several slate quarries.
Large silicious crystals, commonly called rock-
diamonds, are frequently found in the fissures of
the rocks, with some curious ' specimens of cubic
pyrites, and crystallized tin. The animals of this
alpine tract were formerly wolves, deer, foxes, and
goats ; of which the two first have been extirpated.
The golden eagle is known to have bred, though
rarely, among the cliffs of Y Wyddfa ; but the Rock
Ouzel, a migratory bird, is common. Many of the
Alpine pools abound with fish ; and two, in par-
ticular are remarkable for their productions : one
has a floating island, composed of a detached por-
tion of the bank, compacted by the roots of willows,
and other shrubs, " the other contains three sorts of
•fish, eels, trout, and perch, all of which," says Gi-
raldus, " want the left eye." The botanist will
here find an ample banquet : the vegetable surface
abounds especially with that species of plants, styled
by Linnaeus, Et/terea:. The immense forest, which
is said once to have enveloped the mountain region,
has however been swept away by the furious whirl-
wind of civil contention ; and of the venerable oaks
and patulous beeches nothing now remains, but their
stools to point out where they once flourished, and
" waved their verdant foliage in the wind.-" — The
point, from which travellers usually ascend the moun-
tain, is a small inn, at hall' a mile distance between
Beddgelert and Carnarvon. The view from the
summit is, beyond expectation, extensive. " From
this point," says-Bingley, " the eye is able to trace,
on a clear day, part of the coast, with the hills of
Scotland ; the high mountains of Westmorland and
Cumberland ; and, on this side, some of the hills of
Lancashire. When the atmosphere is very trans-
parent, even part of the County Wicklow, and
the whole of the Isle of Man, become visible. The
immediately surrounding mountains of Carnarvon-
shire and Merionethshire, all seem directly under
the eye ; and the highest of them appears from this
station much lower than Snowdon. Many of tbo
vales arc exposed to the view, which, by their
verdure, relieve the eye from the dreary scene of
barren rocks. The numerous pools visible from
hence, between thirty and forty, lend also a varied
character to the prospect. The mountain itself, from
the summit, seems as it were propped by five im-
mense rocks, as buttresses." The modes of ascent
are various : the best is supposed to be from the old
Castle Dol Badarn, in which route of four miles,
the excursive visitor encounters the view of immense
chasms, bold peaks, lakes, and cataracts : in fine,
specimens of all the materia of mountain scenery.
Y Wyddfa rises almost to a point, or at best there
is but space for a circular wall of loose stones, within
which travellers usually take their repast. This
summit is frequently enveloped in clouds or mists,
which steal from the visitor the expected reward of
his toilsome march. A picture of such an incident,
pourtrayed by Mr. Pennant, is very faithful : " On
this day, the sky was obscured very soon after I got
up. A vast mist enveloped the whole circuit of the
mountain. The prospect down was horrible. It
gave an idea of numbers of abysses, concealed by a
thick smoke, furiously circulating around us. Very
often a gust of wind formed an opening in the clouds,
which gave a fine and distinct vista of lake and
valley. Sometimes they opened only in one place ;
at others, in many at once, exhibiting a most strange
and perplexing sight of water, fields, rocks, or cliasms
in fifty different places. They then closed at once,
and left us involved in darkness ; in a small time
they would separate again, and fly in wild eddies
round the middle of the mountain, and expose, in
parts, both tops and bases clear to our view. We
descended from this various scene with great reluc-
tance ; but before we reached our horses, a thunder
storm overtook us."
BETWS-Y-COED.] — At this village, which contains
scarcely a hundred houses, in the church, is an
ancient monument of Dafydd brother of Llewelyn
the Great ; and the road leads into the luxuriant
vale of Llanwrst, in the neighbourhood of which are
many seats. The principal of these is Gwydir
House, an ancient mansion of the Wynnes ; and now
an occasional residence of Lord Gwydir. — Two miles
northward, is the villge of Trefrew, remarkable,
chiefly, for a saline spring, and the site of a royal
palace, built by Llewelyn. — Between two mountains,
near this place, are some capital mines, the produce
of which are lead, and calamine, mixed with iron,
ochre, and pyrites.
CARNARVON.] — The town of Carnarvon, built on
the shore of the Menai, near the mouth of the little-
river Seiont, occupies the site of Segontium, the
most remote station of the Romans, in the west.
This site is distinctly discernible in an oblong qua-
drangular area, of about eleven acres, on the summit
of a small elevation, wlrere some vestiges of" walls
are still remaining. On the banks >of tha Seionf,
also, are two entire walls of a fort, which display ail
the
WALES.
635
tlic peculiarities of Roman masoury. The ancient
Welsh name of Carnarvon was Caer Cusleint ; (the
city of Constantino) which apparently indicates some
connection of that emperor with the place ; and, in-
deed, it is asserted that his father, Constantius, who
had married a British princess, was interred here.
Segontium was, subsequently, a seat of (lie Welsh
princes ; for which distinction, it was qualified by its
position and resources. The present town, which
derives its appellation from Caer, a fortress, yn in,
and drfoii, the district opposite Aid;/, is generally
supposed to have been founded by Edward I. Its
site is almost insular; and consequently, appeared
to a warrior, like Edward, admirably adapted, as a
fortified post, to the purpose of curbing the spirited
exertions of his new subjects. The erection of the
Castle forms an epoch in the history of the whole
principality. It was completed, say some, in the
space of a single year ; and was immediately gar-
risoned with a body of eighty men, under the com-
mand of the first governor, John <!e Havering.
Twelve years afterwards, in 1294, the constable,
then Sir Roger de Pulesdon, was seized by the na-
tives in one of their hasty revolts, hanged, 'and
afterwards decapitated. In 1402, it was blockaded
by the insurgents under Owen Glyndwr ; but was
bravely defended by Jevan ap Meredydd, to whom,
with Llwyd of Glyn Llifon, had been committed the
custody of the castle. On the breaking out of civil
warfare in the reign of Charles I. Carnarvon was
seized, for the parliament, by Captain Swanley, who
took in the town four hundred prisoners, and a con-
siderable quantity of arms and ammunition. The
royalists regained the place ; but were expelled
again in 1646. In 1648, Sir John Owen attempted
the recovery of the town for the king ; but raised the
siege to fight Colonels Carter and Twisselton ; in
which encounter he was taken prisoner. The
property of the castle is still vested in the crown ;
but it is held by the earl of Uxbridge. — This noble
edifice, which occupies a large space at the west end
of the town, is still almost entire, and displays such
strength, as to appear impregnable. On two sides,
it is defended by the Seiont ; the other two were
formerly bounded by a foss. The walls, which are
ten feet thick, have within them a gallery and oeillets
for the discharge of missiles. From the embattled
parapet, rise several various polygonal towers, of
which two are distinguished by their height*, the
Eagle Tower, so called, from the figure of an eagle,
supposed to be Roman; -and the tower over the
principal entrance, on which is a statue of Edward,
a bare-headed figure, trampling on a defaced shield,
and holding in bis, left hand a sword, which he is
sheathing, in allusion to the termination of the Welsh
war. The interioj is much dilapidated ; yet still
exhibits marks of that magnificence which cha-
racterized its founder. In a little dark room of the
Eagle Tower, which only is entire, was born Ed-
ward II. — Carnarvon vvas distinguished by the first
royal charter granted to Wales. By this, it was
constituted a free borough, to be governed by a
mayor, who, for the time being, was also to be
governor of the Castle, one alderman, two bailiffs,
a town-clerk, and two Serjeants at macei A mem-
ber was then also summoned to represent its burges-
ses, and those of Nevin, Crickeilth, Conway, and
Pwllheli ; the right of electing whom, is vested in
every inhabitant, resident or non-resident, who lias
been admitted to the freedom of the place. Numerous
other privileges and exemptions were also attached
to this charter. — Carnarvon occupies a site, which
is fortified by nature : on one side, it is bounded by
the Menai; on another, by the aestuary of the Seiont ;
on the third by a creek of the Menai ; and on the
fourth, art has been employed to render it almost
insular. The streets, though narrow, are regular ;
and cross each other at right angles ; and a broad
terrace, along the whole western side, forms a de-
lightful promenade for the inhabitants. The church,
which is a chapel to that of Llanbeblic, is too small
for the population of the place ; and a plan was
lately in agitation for the erection of a new one.
The County-hall, and the Custom-house, are both
mean buildings ; but the Prison, and a new Market-
house, are neat, and well adapted to their respective
uses. At the east end of the town is a large suburb,
with a wide street, on each side of which is a round
tower. These are connected by an arch, called tho
eastern gate- way, over which is an assembly-room,
where municipal business is also transacted. This,
with hot and cold sea-water baths, an elegant hotel,
and a market well supplied and cheap, renders the
town a desirable residence. — The port, by which it
carries on a considerable maritime trade, is rendered
dangerous by a bar, called the Aber sand-bank ; but
it affords sea-room for vessels of 600 or 700 tons,
which may ride close to the quay. The average
number of vessels belonging to the port may be fifty,
carrying 2500 tons, and 180 men ; but these num-
bers are subject to frequent fluctuation, Carnarvon
is destitute of manufactures ; the import trade com-
prises wines, coals, porter, groceries, &c ; and the
principal export is slates from the quarries of Llau-
berris and Llanllyfni.
CAERRHUN.] —The pleasing village of Caer Rhun,
situated in the vale of Conway, was once no less
distinguished for its importance, than it now is for
its beauty. It was the site of the ancient Conovium ;
of which many vestiges still exist; as, weapons, do-
mestic utensils, and architectural remains. Among
other relics, was a brazen shield, of circular form*
faced with embossed rings, and studded with nume-
rous pins, from the circumference to the centre,
whence projected a sharp piece of wrought iron, five
inches long. The vale, particularly distinguished
for its variety, is in this place remarkable for the
assemblage of cataracts from the neighbouring moun-
tains ; and for the numerous bridges of Alpine con-
struction, thrown across fearful chasms.
CATBL CERRIO.] — In one of the vales of Snowdo-
nia, and near the base of the principal mountain,
stands
GC6
WALES.
stands the small village of Capel Cerrig, distinguish-
ed by the extremely picturesque scenery which every-
where meets the eye in its vicinity. At a short dis- )
tanee, is Rhaiadr-y-Wenol, a celebrated cataract, j
the features of which, particularly of the upper part i
are unusually grand. Here the water is thrown in |
a sheet down an almost perpendicular rock; after j
which, it becomes placid and continues its serpentine
course between high banks, feathered with oak-birch,
and creeping shrubs to the very top.
CLYNNOG.] — At the distance of about nine miles
from Carnarvon, southward, is Clynnog, a small
•village distinguished Cor the residence in the seventh
century of St. Beuno, who built the church, and
became the first abbot of a monastery, which he also
founded. The church, the most magnificent eccle-
siastical edifice of North Wales, is built in the
pointed style, cruciform in its shape ; ami comprises
a chancel, nave, two aisles, and a transept, with a
handsome square tower. Its length from east to
'•west is one hundred and thirty eight feet ; its breadth,
seventy. Near the altar are three stalls, with pointed
arohos, supported by slender columns ; and these,
•with a few monuments, and a little stained glass,
are all the relics that exist of its decorations. In
the south-east corner of the church is an oaken chest,
bound with iron, and attached to the floor, called
ciflf Beuno, (Beuno's) ; in the lid of which is a small
aperture, through which devout persons were wont
to pass their pecuniary offerings to the church. But
the reign of superstition which alone could prompt
sacrifices so ridiculous, is gone ; and it is scarcely
to be regretted that no such fund exists, for the
preservation of a pile, which, however venerable in
other respects, was fit once the cause and conse-
quence of such degradation in -the human mind. — \t
the distance of half a mile, is a large cromlech, on
the tipper surface of which are several shallow holes ;
and thirty yards off, is a single stone pillar. The
country southward is barren and uninteresting ; but
to this picture the Rhifel rocks, with their forked
sumir.its, wrapt in clouds, form a singular contrast.
On this mountainous ridge is the most magnificent,
as well as most artfully constructed, British post in
Wales. This is Tre'r Caeri, or the town of fortres-
ses. The only accessible side is defended by three
walls : the first imperfect, the second entire ; and the
third originally incomplete. The area is irregular,
and near the centre is a quadrangular space, fenced
•with stone, and environed by two series of cells, of
which numerous others cover the surface. These
remains of habitations are of various forms, round
square, and even polygonal ; some fifteen, others
thirty feet in diameter ; and all approached by long
passages, faced with stone. To a secluded spot
-near this place, called Nant y Gwrtheyrn, embos-
omed in a lofty mountain, with only one opening,
and that towards the sea, retired Vortigern from the
vengeance of his subjects, whom he had betrayed.
A small verdant mount is said to be the site of his
residence; and a cairn, covered with turf, in which,
some years,ago, a stone coffin, containing the bones-
of a tall man, was found, the place of his interment.
CONWAY.] — Situated on the aestuary of the river
which bears its name, 236 miles from the metropolis,
is Conway, rendered famous by its castle. This
fortress, erected by the victorious Edward, in 1284,
is less remarkable as the scene of active events, than
its appearance would indicate. In the civil wars of
Charles I. it was reduced by the parliamentary forces,
who spared it from the fate to which they usually
devoted other similar conquests ; and it was the Earl
of Conway, a loyalist, who, having obtained posses-
sion, in the following reign, ordered the most valu-
able of the materials to be removed to his own
estate : rendering it, by this mercenary measure,
roofless ; and thus reducing it to nearly its present
ruinous condition. In its original form, perhaps
it was unequalled in beauty, whether we consider its
position, or the style of erection. Seated on the
verge of a rock, washed on two sides by thp river,
its form was quadrangular, defined by walls of great
thickness, and defended by eight vast, circular,
embrittled towers, each of which was surmounted
by a slender turret. Of the interior little is dis-
tinguishable, except the hall of state, an apartment
in which was expressed the magnificent and superb
disposition of the founder. Thirty feet square, and
twenty high, it was supported by eight arches, and
lighted by nine windows, of the finest architecture,
and the most finished execution. Beneath, extensive
vaults served alternately as magazines for ammu-
nition, and as repositories for the stores essential to
conviviality. At present, the ruinous waits and
broken arches ore hung with ivy. — The lofty and
massive walls of the town were strengthened by
twenty-four round towers^ which, with the four
principal gateways, remain entire. Perhaps Con-
way is the only fortified town in Britain, where
the works of man are so happily blended with the
beautiful features of nature. There are few modern
houses ; but the dilapidated remains of domestic
splendour are numerous ; and these are scattered:
among gardens, orchards, &c. which excite ideas
of picturesque, but melancholy beauty, in the spec-
tator.— In 1185, Llewelyn ap Jowerth established
here an abbey, for monks of the Cistercian order ;
which he endowed with vast possessions ; but Ed-
ward, too politic to trust such an institution of
natives within the walls, removed the religious to
a new foundation of his own, at Maynan, ami the
church was made parochial. In this edifice is a
singular epitaph, which records the uncommon
fecundity of two persons of the same family : " Here
lyeth the body of NICHOLAS HOOKES, of CONWAY,
Gent, who was the 41st child of his father WILLIAM
HOOKES, Esq. by ALICE his wife, and the father of
twenty-seven children ; (and) who died the 20th
day of March, 1637." Conway is still governed,,
by charter of Edward I. by an alderman, recorder,
coroner, water-bailiff, and two Serjeants at mace,
elected annually. The port is a dry harbour; the
ferry
WALES.
(537
and the trade, which is in a stale of progressive
improvement, arises from the exportation of corn,
potatoes, timber, bark, pot ash, slates, and other
minerals, as lead, Oftlatnhie, pyrites, nml copper; and
the ferry is of great importance, but very dangerous ;
the usual imports of tiie necess; lies W life are
coals, groceries, iron, &c. The pear! fishery,
long the boast of the country, is now wgleriui ;
yet Suetonius ranks it among the principal motives
of the Roman invasion ; nnd a pearl |m seuted by
Sir R, Wynne to the Queen of Charles II. is now
honoured with a place in the regal crown. .-
CRICKEITH.] — Crickeiiii, though a borough and
market town, is a small and unimportant place,
composed of a few mean buildings, without the re-
gularity of streets. It is, nevertheless, of high
antiquity ; and. it is made interesting by tin. ruins
of its castle, situated on the verge of a peninsular
promontory. Its artificial defences were as strong
as its natural position. Cutoff i"rotn>the terra-firma
by a double loss and vallum, the entrance was
through a gate way flanked by round bastion towers ;
two other towers stood on the verge of the cliff', and
a tilth was built in the court, in the manner of a
keep. Jt was never large. Rowlands contends for
a British origin ; though other writers assert Ed-
ward I. to have been the founder. The government
was bestowed by the Black Prince upon Sir Hovvell
y Fwyall (the pole-axe) for his exploits at the battle
of Poictiers, where he is said to have captured the
French King. — The neighbourhood abounds with
remains of Bardism, among which the most re-
markable are a circular tower at Dolbenmaen ;
three cromleclis, at Ystym Cegid ; at Penmorfa, a
small druidical circle ; and a large one, composed
of thirty-eight stones atBwIch-craig-wen.
DOLWYDDELAN.] — At this secluded village, four
miles from Capel Cerrig, are the remains of an
ancient castle, said to be the birth-place of the
last Llewelyn, composed of square* towers, three
stories high, and nearly entire. Not far distant
also, is the remarkable bridge of Pontys Pair.
DWYGYFYLCHI.] — At the distance ot four miles
from Conway, is the village Dwygyfylchi, not far
from which rises the tremendous mountain and pro-
montory of Penraaen-Mawr. Over this, passes the
great Irish road, on the very brink of a precipice,
two hundred fathoms in perpendicular height above
the sea, which roars at its base. Numerous were
were the accidents which had proved fatal to pas •
sengers over this frightful rock, when, in 1772,
an act was passed, and contributions were raised,
for widening the road, ano; erecting a wall on the
side next the. sea. This was effected ; but one
source of danger remains which it will be found
much more difficult to remove : tbe side of the
mountain rises, perpendicularly, and often project-
ng ; and, from tiiis, large masses are often detached
by variou> accidents which threaten the existence
of the traveller, and remler the road for a time im-
passable.—On tbe summit of a hill, called Braich
VOL. IV.— 50. 180,
y Dinas, rising out of Penmaen, arc the ruins of
an intrcnchment, capacious enough to contain 20,000
persons ; and so strong, by its position, that one
liundred men might defend themselves against an
army. It is formed by a strong treble wall, each of
which is strengthened by at least one hundred cir-
cular towers, of various dimensions ; and at the
summit is a well, which affords abundance of water,
even in the driest season. About a mile distant, on.
YMeineu-Hirion,oneof the most remarkable moun-
tains in Snowdonia, is a circular intrcnchment,
eighty feet in diameter ; and the whole intermediate
and surrounding tract exhibits vestiges of ancient
habitation, in the ruins of small buildings, suited to
the rude simplicity of early ages.
EGLWYS RHOS.] — On the eastern side- of the river
Con way"; on a tract of land, distinguished for the
boldness of its features towards the sea, stood the
ruins of the once celebrated Diganwy, or Cannoc ;
which, says a Welsh historian, was destroyed by
lightning a thousand years ago. Nearly a century
since, many brass belts, and some weapons, were
discovered on the site ; and some fragments of
foundation walls arc yet distinguishable ; on a low
hill, also, are remains of an ancient round tower,
twenty 'feet high, and no more than twelve feet
in diameter. In the neighbourhood of Eglwys
Rhos, are Gloddaeth, a seat of Sir Thomas Mostyn,
and Marie, destroyed by fire, about twenty years,
since.
LLANBEBLIC.] — The church of Llanbeblic, which
parish also includes Carnarvon, is half a mile from
the town. Here divine service is performed once
every Sunday in Welsh, as it is in English within
the walls. Within, is an altar tomb, on which two
figures repose on a carved mat, the effigies of Sir
William Gryffydd, who died in 1587, and of Mar-
garet, his wife ; the former in armour ; the latter in
the costume of the times : a loose robe, with a sash
about the waist, ruffles at the wrists, and a quilted
ruff' round the neck. — From Carnarvon, westward
•to the strong post of Dinas Dinlle, parts of a Roman
road are yet visible. T lie latter place comprises the
top of an artificial mount, four hundred feet across,
near the sea, surrounded by a vast rampart of earth,
and marked within by the remains of buildings.
Other forts, also, of more or less importance, some
entire, and all interesting, are scattered over the
whole neighbouring country, with evident relation
to this great centre of observation and action. —
Near a rivulet, which beai> the name of Llit'on, lies
Glynllyfon park, a seat of Lord Nevvborough, the
grounds of which, but litile interesting in them-
selves, are decorated with a few ornamental build-
ings.
LLANBERIS.] — Nantperis, a valley of Snowdonia,
near JLlunbcris, is distinguished tor its picturesque
beauty, heightened by a remarkable cataract. '1 he
village of Llanberis, composed of a few miserable
cottages, stands in a small valley, almost filled by
two lakes, which, before the opening of the copper
7 Y. mines,
038
WALES.
mines, were celebrated for their abundance of red
and golden char. On a rocky eminence, between
these pools, are the ruins of Dolbadern Castle, a
fortress, evidently of British origin, and noticed in
history as the prison of Owen Gocb, who had at-
tempted the dethronement of his brother, Llewelyn.
During the long warfare, also, maintained by Glyn-
dwr, in the reigns of Henry IV. and his successor,
Dolbadern Castle was occasionally in possession of
both parties, and was often warmly contended for
as the key of Snowdonia. The remains cover the
•whole summit of the eminence, and consist of
foundations, and the entire keep or citadel. This
is a circular tower, constructed with schistus,
strongly cemented ; in height about ninety feet,
and in diameter forty-four. The walls are nearly
three yards thick ; the interior is divided into three
stories ; and a few broken steps shew the means
of ascent to have been a spiral staircase. On the
declivity of the mountain, on the east side of the
lakes, is a large slate quarry; on the opposite side
of the valley is another ; and by the side of the
valley is another ; and by the side of the upper lake
is a valuable copper mine, which was first begun to
be wrought in 1763-4. Near the summit of Snow-
don is another ; to which, with the Llanberis mine,
the men give alternate attendance : in summer, to
the mountain mine ; and in winter, to that in the
"valley.
LLANDEINIOLEN.] — Near this place, a ruinous edi-
fice, called Llys Dinorddwig, is said to have been
one of the numerous palaces of the last Llewelyn.
Eastward from the church is a holy well, called
Arthur's ; and not far distant are several large yew
trees, one of which is twenty-seven feet in girth. —
Vaenol House, delightfully situated between Car-
narvon and Bangor, is the residence of T. A. Smith,
.Esq. a handsome structure, embosomed in trees.
LLANDEGAI.] — On an eminence, risingimmediately
from the banks of the Ogwen, stands the church of
Llandegai, noted as the burial place of Williams,
Archbishop of York. A mural monument, with the
figure of the prelate in his archiepiscopal robes,
kneeling before an altar, is placed over his remains.
This illustrious man was the sport of fortune during
a great part of his existence. He was exalted to the
see of Lincoln ; and became lord-keeper of the privy
seal, in which high office, he was found' guilty of
subornation ; and suffered an incarceration of three
years ; after being liberated, he was raised to the
see of York ; and was shortly after banished. He
died in 1650, aged 68, " with the reputation," says
Pennant, " of a wise, rather than a good man."
LLANDIGAN.] — At the distance of about four miles
from Aber, is the village of Llandigan, noted for its
vicinity to Port-Penrhyn, a small creek, which is
fordable at. low-water ; and from which large quan-
tities of slates arc annually exported. — The princi-
pal quarry is at Braich-y-cefn, near Dolawen ; and
it was begun to be wrought in 1782. This qtfarry
is of immense depth. The slates were, for a long
time, conveyed to the port, by carts, at a heavy
expence ; but, within a few years, an iron railway
has been constructed, which serves to conduct loaded
waggons, six miles distance, from the quarries to the
quoy. Among other improvements, must be noticed
a savving-mill, which converts large fragments of
slato-rock into slabs. Near the port, also, has been
established a manufactory of cyphering slates, ink-
stands, &c. ; and a handsome house has been erected,
in which are hot and cold marine baths, dressing
and tea rooms, and excellent lodging. — In Nant
Francon, or the vale of Beavers, a substance is found,
which is converted into good hones. In this wild
scene, the collected waters of five alpine lakes, rush-
ing down a rocky height, form several cataracts,
and a deep pool ; the features of which, and those of
an ornamental building and plantation of Lady Pen-
rhyn, contrasted with the bleak sterility of the sur-
rounding mountains, have obtained for the soene,
the designation of " an acre of Tempo among the
wilds of Norway." — Two miles from the pleasing
village of Aber Gwyngregin, is a glen, in which
are several fine water-falls. One, in particular, is
above sixty feet in depth, and, forming a broad
white sheet, has been aptly compared to the Staub-
bac-h, or dusty cascade, in Switzerland. In this
glen, also, a small artificial mount is noted as the
site of a palace, erected by Llewelyn the Great.
LLANGYBI.] — The village of Llan-gybi, three
miles from Pwllheli, north-eastward, is distinguish-
ed for a mineral spring, a sovereign remedy for
diseases of the eyes. The water of this spring is
heavier than common water, and lighter than sea-
water ; it is mixed with a great portion of mineral
spirits ; and it contains a mineral alkaline salt, and
a fine white metallic earth.
NEFYN.] — On a narrow isthmus, which connects
the south-western extremity of Carnarvonshire,
with the rest of the county, stands Nefyn, or Nevyn,
a small market town, little remarkable ; except, in
history, for a festival, which Edward I. held in the
neighbourhood. A mile distant, on the shore, is
Forth yn Llyn, where are vestiges of the Romans.
Brydonol, the seat of John Griffith, Esq. is well
situated ; and commands an extensive view of Snow-
don, and the intermediate tract. The churches in
this district are numerous ; and appear, from various
inscriptions, to claim high antiquity. On a column
of that of Llangynodol is the following :
" J. GWEN HOEDL JACET me 750."
and on another :
HjEC jBDES jEDIFICATA EST, A. D. M.
Nevyn was bestowed on Nigel de Lohareyn, by the
Black Prince ; who also made it a free borough,
with a mercatory guild ; and instituted fairs and a
market.
PENMORFA.] — At the bead of Traeth Mawr, and
beneath the frowning aspect of the Hedog, is situated
the small village of Penmorfa ; remarkable, chiefly,
for
WALES.
6-5f>
for its church, in which is the monument of Sir
John Owen, lord of Clenncney.* — About twenty
years ago, W. A. Madocks, Esq. redeemed a large
tract of land from (lie western side of the Traetb,
by an embankment, nearly two miles in length, ami
this success induced the same gentleman, about ten
years since, to attempt the recovery of the whole.
The embankment for this purpose is a mile in length ;
one hundred feet broad at the base, and thirty at top ;
and it is formed of soil and stones, secured \vith
stakes and mats. On a portion of the soil which
was first secured, stands the small town ofTremadoc,
distinguished for the neatness, regularity, and com-
fortable appearance of its buildings ; and for the
attention which the founder has directed towards the
accommodation of the inhabitants. Elevated on a
lofty ro.rk which commands the town, and surround-
ed by flourishing plantations, is Tany-yr-alt, the
sent 01 "- Vv". A. Madocks, Esq. a neat modern mansion,
with sjuie pretensions to architectural beauty. Be-
tween this place, and Beddgelert, is the picturesque
bridge over the Traeth, called Pont-aber-glasllyn.
The grandeur of this scene impresses the sense with
the strongest admiration. An impending cliff, at
least 800 i'eet high, projects, from every part of its
broken front, stupendous rocks of every variety of
form ; masses of which are continually falling into
the stream below ; and on the opposite side, a simi-
lar cliff seems to threaten destruction to those who
pass the road at its foot. Above the bridge is a
small cataract, which is noted as a salmon leap ; and
not far distant, are several shafts, which have been
sunk, not without success, in search of copper.
PENRHYN CASTLE.] — Penrhyn Castle, the seat of
Dowager Lady Penrhyn, is said to have been erected
on the site of an ancient palace of Roderic Molwynog,
sovereign of North Wales, in the early part of the
eighth century. It appears to have been rebuilt in
the reign of Henry VI ; and consists of several
buildings, ranged round an inner court, the entrance
* This gentleman bore a distinguished part in the warfare
which was carried on in North Wales, between the Royalists
and Republicans. Being taken prisoner by the latter, be was
conveyed to Windsor, where he found five others : the Earl of
Holland, the lords, Goring, Loughborough, Capel, and Major
General Langhorn, deprived of their liberty, for having es-
poused the same cause. A vote had passed the house for the
banishment of these state prisoners, and, before it was put in
execution, the king was beheaded. Immediately on which
event, more sanguinary measures marked the proceedings of the
triumphant partv. An order was issued, to try the Duke of
Hamilton, the Earl of Holland, the lords, Goring and Capel,
with Sir John Owen. On the trial, he displayed the same
intrepidity of spirit, which had been the discriminating trait of
liis conduct in more 'fortunate times. Undaunted at the awful
situation in which he stood, when put upon his defence, he
replied, " that he was a plain gentleman ot Wales, who had
been always taught to obey the king ; that he had served him
honestly during (the war; and finding many honest men en-
deavoured to raise forces, whereby they might get him out of
prison, he did the like :" and then concluded in a dignified
strain, liXe a man unconscious of guilt, and who was perfectly
careless, whether he should receive a favourable or unfavourable
to which is a handsome gateway, surmounted by a
tower. It has been recently much improved, mid
the chapel removed to a different site. This building,
1 which once occupied the interior of the court, is far
from inelegant ; the pulpit, in particular, composed
, of cedar, includes three pannels of carved wainscot
| oak, the bas-reliefs in which, representing the
; Scourging, the Crucifixion, and the Resurrection
of our Saviour, have seldom been surpassed. The
stables are remarkable for the elegance of their de-
sign and execution ; being fitted up from the inex-
i haustible stores of beautiful slate, found on the estate.
I Not far distant, on the stream of the Ogwen, is a
curious mill to grind chert, quartz, and flints, for the
use of the porcelain and delft- ware potteries.
PWLLHELI.] — Situated on the northern side of Car-
digan Bay, and comprised in the parish of Llanor,
i is Pwllheli a small market-town, which was granted
j to Nigel de Lohareyn, by Edward, the Black Prince?,
j for his exploits at the battle of Poictiers. The town
consists of one long street ; and has a port capable
of admitting vessels of sixty tons burden, the entrance
to which is by a rotundiform rock at the mouth of a
rivulet, which forms the harbour. Vast shoals of
herrings frequent this coast ; the john-dory also
abounds ; and the smelt is not unfrcquently caught.
DENBIGHSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.] — Denbighshire is bound-
ed northward, by the Irish Sea ; towards the north-
east, and south-east, it joins Flintshire and Salop ;
and its boundaries, to the south and west, are the
counties of Merioneth and Carnarvon. Its form is
irregular ; its greatest length is forty eight, and its
breadth, twenty miles ; and its area is computed to
be 410,000 acres, nearly the whole of which is in a
state of cultivation : three-eights, as arable ; and
the remainder, as pasture land. It is divided into
six hundreds : Bromfidd, Chirk, Isalod, Isdulas,
lltitliin, and Yale. It also contains one borough
Issue. The. sentence was, that he should be beheaded. On
hearing which he bowed to the court, and with a humourous
display of fortitude, returned the judges thanks, for their unex-
pected lenity, iking interrogated, as to what he meant, his
answer was prompt, and audible. " It .was a great honour to a
poor gentleman of Wales, to lose his head, with such noble
lords ; for by G — he was afraid they would have hanged him."
He might probably have obtained a mitigation of the capital
part of the punishment, had he been supplicatory in his conduct.
But, as his epitaph states, more solicitous of character than life,
he neither begged for mercy, nor was a petition preferred to
parliament in his favour : although every cfi'ort was exerted irt
behalf of the other condemned prisoners. To the astonishment
however of the house and the world, colonels Hutchinson and
Ireton, became his advocates ; the latter observing, " That there
was one person for whom no one spoke a word, and therefore
requested, that he might be saved by the sole motive and good-
ness of the house." In consequence, the golden sceptre of
mercy was extended towards him : he was ordered to be im-
prisoned, and after a few months' confinement by petitioning,
lie obtained his liberty ; on which he retired to Cleuneney, where
he died, and was interred, in 1666, aged 66.
Denbigh ;
640
WALES.
Denbigh; five market-towns, Abergeley, Llangol-
len, Llanwrst, Ruthin, and Wrexham ; and fifty
seven parishes. The character of its soil and surface
is very various : the western parts are mountainous ;
as are the northern, in a smaller degree ; but the
alpine features are considerably softened ; and some
districts of the north, the south-east, and the south,
become fine pasture and meadow land, where chefise
is made, as good as in Cheshire. The climate is
esteemed salutary ; but, being frequently agitated
by winds from the heights of Snowdon, and by the
northern blasts from the ocean, it is not without a
feeling of asperity. Its principal rivers are the
Clwyd, the Conway, and the Dee, the two last of
which form its boundaries to the west and east,
respectively ; while the Clwyd is not considerable
enough, within its limits, to be accounted navigable.
The western hills are, however, interspersed with
lakes, the streams from which suffice for the neces-
sary irrigation of the soil. In the south-western
part, Denbighshire is well wooded ; and the ap-
pearance of extensive infant plantations promises a
succession of this so desirable and profitable an
ornament to the country. Rich mines of lead, iron,
and coal, have been found in various parts. The
fust abounds in a tract, which abuts upon Flintshire,
northward to the Dee ; and reaches, southward, to
near Llangollen. Iron ore is discovered in the
Ruabon, and Berwyn Hills ; and at Bromba, where
also a mine of sulphur has been found, containing
iron pyrites, in masses. Coal abounds, particularly,
in the eastern district. Slate, lime, and free-stone
rocks, are also wrought with advantage. Agricul-
ture, in Denbighshire, does not appear to be directed
by the prejudices which prevail in other parts of the
principality. Societies have been instituted for its
improvement ; and these, aided by the exertions of
some public spirited proprietors, have not been al-
together unsuccessful. The natural products of the
county seem to consist of its corn and cattle ; and of
the minerals which it has been found to enclose in
its bosom ; but it has no navigable river, or port,
and consequently no external commerce. Of its
manufactures, coarse clothSj flannels, and stockings,
fabricated from the wool of the country, are the most
considerable. A small quantity, only, of iron is
wrought; and a manufactory of harps is established
at Llanwrst. — During the almost continual dissen-
tions between the Mercians and the Welsh, Den-
bighshire was often the arena and the object of their
contests. One vestige remains of their depredatory
mode of warfare, in an imuunise ditch and rampart,
constructed by Offii, a Mercian king; and, from him,
denominated Offii's Dyke. This singular work, al-
most entire in many places, extends from the river
Wye, along the counties of Hereford, Radnor, -
and Montgomery, enters Denbighshire near Chirk
Castle, and quits it above Wrexham ; and ceases at
Cae-dwiu, in the parish of Mold, Flintshire. Nearly
parallel to this celebrated trench, on the English
side, is a similar fortification, which, when entire,
extended from Maesbury, near Oswestry, to the
Dee, at Basingwerk ; and, with the other, enclosed
a piece of ground, on which Britons and Saxons
were wont to assemble for commercial purposes.
The custom and the place are thus noticed by
Churchyard, in his " Worthiness of Wales :"
• there is a famous thing
Calde Offaes Dyke, that reacheth farre in length :
All kind of warre, the Danes might thether bring,
It was free ground, and cal'de the Britaines strength,
Wat's Dyke likewise about the same was set,
Between which two, both Danes and Britaines met*.
And trafficke stille, but passing bounds by sleight.
The one did take the other prisoner streight.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
ABERGELEY.] — Situated, on the sea-coast, at half
distance between St Asaph, and the town of Aber-
conway, is Abergeley, formerly celebrated for its
large cattle fairs, and now much resorted to, for the
purpose of sea-bathing. There is a tradition which
relates that the sea has overwhelmed a considerable
tract which once extended, northward, from the
town ; and some evidence is found of its truth, in
numerous oak trees, discovered in the tenacious
loam of the beach, at ebb-tide. The sea front of a
lofty precipice in the neighbourhood is remarkable
for being perforated in various ways by the action
of the tides. One of the caverns, thus formed, is
called Yr Ogo, (the cavern) par excellence; and,
certainly, its great depth, and its curious internal
appearance, entitle it to the distinction. The prin-
cipal road to the Conway formerly conducted the
traveller along the steep side of Penmaen Rhos, a
huge rock, which, like Penmaen Mawr, overhangs
the waves in a frightful manner ; but this, by being
widened, has ceased to be dangerous. It was in one
of the adjacent glens that Richard II. was surprised
by his rival, the Duke of Lancaster.
CERIG -y DRUIDION.] — The village which is thus
designated evidently derived the latter part of its
name, from having been a place of assembly for the
Bards ; who left some vestiges of their particular
habits, in two monuments, of a nature rather un-
common. These relics, called Kht-vden, (stone
chest) were two prisons, which could not be other
than solitary. Each consisted of seven stones, so
constructed, as to confine one person ; and they
were a furlong apirt. One of them was distinguished
by the name Karcliar Kynrik Ruth, Kenric Rwth's
prison ; but both have now disappeared. At Clo-
geninog, on the way to Ruthin, was discovered an
inscription, AIMILLNE TOV1SAG, which Camden
read sEwitianns Tovisag, Etnilian, a chief, supposed
of the Britans.
CHIRK.] — Situated six miles from Llangollen,
south-eastward, on the brow of a lime-stone hill, is
the large village of Cliirk, which, surrounded by
co<>] anil l.uiu works, and animated, by a spirit of
industry and trade, wears the appearance of a con-
siderable town. It is distinguished chiefly fop an
ancient
WALES.
C41
ancient castle, long the residence of the Myddeltons,
in the female line of which family it remains. This
edifice, distant half a mile from the town, stands on
the line of Offa's Dyke ; and appears to have been
erected in the reign of Edward 1. by Roger Morti-
mer. Its form is quadrangular; strengthened, at
the corners, with four heavy bastion towers ; and in
front, by a fifth, through which is (he entrance to the
inner court, 100 feet long, by 100 in breadth. The
principal apartments are a saloon, and drawing-
room, of large dimensions ; and a picture gallery,
100 feet long, in which is a large collection of paint-
ings, chiefly portraits. Though Chirk Castle is
without the embellishment of domestic scenery, it
cominnnds a varied extent of prospect into seventeen
counties ; and this advantage of deration compen-
sates for its heavy appearance, and the bleakness,
occasioned by exposure. The church contains se-
veral monuments of the Myddeltons, and in the
cemetery are seven yew-trees of great p.ge and di-
mensions. The neighbourhood was, in 1161, the
field of a sanguinary battle between Henry II. and
the Welsh, whosn he had invaded, in which he
suffered a complete and mortifying defeat, and was
compelled to retreat to his own dominions. The
Ellesmere Canal, in its course, near Chirk, is con-
ducted across two deep valleys, by means of aque-
ducts ; one of which consists of ten circular arches,
supported by pyramidal piers of stone ; the other,
of nineteen arches, the supporting piers of which
are also stone, lit) feet in height. In the vicinity
are several paper mills, wrought by the Ceiriog ;
coals, also, are abundant ; and in the adjacent district
are several quarries of stone.
DKNBTGH.] — Situated nearly in the centre of the
vale of Chvyd, 219 miles from London, is Denbigh,
the county town ; the ancient name of which was
Caste/I Clfdj'ryn yn RIws, the crnggy hill in Rhos,
allusive to its situation. Its history begins with the
foundation of its castle; and, if we may form an
opinion upon its name, (Dinbecff, a small hill fortress)
that was also the primary cause of its existence. This
edifice appears to have been begun by Henry Lacy,
Earl of Lincoln, to whom the lordship had been
granted by Edward 1. ; and he, also, it is said,
converted the few houses which rose around his
fortress, into a walled town. Here Edward IV.
was besieged during the war of the Roses ; and here
Charles 1. took refuge alter his retreat from Chester,
in 1(545. At that calamitous period, also, it suffered
a siege by the Republicans, under General Mytton,
to whom it was surrendered on terms of capitulation,
after four months1 resistance. By him, it was pro-
bably dismantled ; and, after the Restoration, it was
rendered untenable, by being blown up with gun-
powder. The ruins cover the summit of a craggy
hill, one side of which is precipitous; and this pecu-
liarity of site is not more remarkable, than its own
character of strength, indicated by the excessive
thickness of the walls. Formerly, the town was
walled, and further fortifred by towers, and gates, in
VOL. iv. — NO. 187.
which the town business was transacted. But, in
Leland's time, the population within the walls was
reduced to eighty householders, and in a few years,
we may suppose, the old town was descried for the
new, situated, in the form of one long street and
a few irregular lanes, at the foot of the hill. Befor«
this event, Denbigh had several chapels within its
precincts, a religious house for Carmelites, and an
excellent alms-house. The trading part of the pre-
sent population are employed chiefly in the manu-
facture of gloves and shoes, of which large quan-
tities are sent to London. By Edward I. the town
was made a borough, with considerable privileges ;
and by charter of Elizabeth, it is now governed by
two aldermen, who are justices, and hold quarter-
sessions ; two bailiffs, who, with the aldermen, are
commissioners of assay ; twenty-five burgesses, a
recorder, and two coroners, with other subordinate
officers. — The parish churvh, which is at White-
chureh, a mile distant, is remarkable only for
containing the monument of Humphrey Llwyd, who
closed, in 1568, a life spent in the acquirement of
useful science, and in the service of mankind. — Lle-
weni Hall, distinguished for the beauty of its pro-
spects, was once the seat of tha Salisburys, after-
wards of the Cottons, and now belongs to Michael
Hughes, Esq.
GRESFORD.] — North-westward from Holt, three
miles, is the village of Gn-stbrd, distinguished by
its handsome church. This edifice stands oiia rising
ground, and is built of free-stone, with n quadran-
gular tower, on one side of which is a statue of
Henry VII. The east window, which is of large
size, twenty-one feet by fourteen, has been lull of
beautiful groups, expressive of church history. In
the south aisle is a macled figure o-n a tomb, in^
scribed to IVladoc ap Llewelyn ap Gryffyrtd. The
inscription of a similar figmv in the dorth aisle is
concealed by the pews. N<>ar thi* village, is a strong
intrenehment, with a treble foss and %7iiiium, appa-
rently British.
(j \VYTIIF.RIN.] — The viilagi! of (Jwytht-rin is inter-
esting as the burial-place of Wenefrede, whose re-
mains, in the reign of Henry I. were removed from
the small church tiiere, to Shrewsbury.
HKNLLAN.] — The church of Hi-nllau, many years
ago removed to a distance from its steeple, is noted
for its roof of shingles ; and contains a monumental
inscription to the memory of Sir l-VU-r Mutton, who
was a master in chancery, and chief justice in North
Wales. Situated in a small but beautiful park, is
Llanerch House, once the seat of this gentleman ;
and now of Daniel Lee, Esq.
HOLT.] — About five miles from Wrexham, north-
eastward, is Holt, once a market-town, but now
an inconsiderable village, distinguished only by tho
history of its castle. Of this eiiifice little remnins
but th'e site, and the moat by which it is surrounded.
Three of its five sides were defended by this trench,
from which great part of the stone, used in the build-
ing, was quarried. At each angle was a bastion
7 z tower ;
642
WALES.
tower ; and, over the entrance, which was by a
draw-bridge, was a square tower, strengthened by
portcullisses and machicloated arrangements, the
more necessary, from the level nature of the sur-
rounding terrain. Into the Dee, which formed a
natural barrier, a jetty was projected, which, like
the rest, has disappeared. The founder was the
Earl of Warren, in the reign of Edward I. Among
succeeding possessors, were theFitz-alans, Earls of
Arundel, the Beauohamps of Abergavenney, and in
the reign of Henry VII. the ill-fated Stanley. In
1643, it belonged to the crown, and was garrisoned
by the king ; was soon taken, and as speedily re-
covered ; and in 1645-6, it was finally surrendered
to the Parliament, after a vigorous and protracted
defence, by the governor. The village of Holt,
divided from Farndon, in Cheshire, by the Dee,
communicates with that place by a bridge of ten
arches, built in 1345. The church is constructed
with red stone, and seems as old as the bridge. The
town is still governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, a
coroner, &c. and is associated, in the privilege of
electing a member, with Ruthin and Denbigh.
LLANSANNAN.] — In the parish of Llansannan,says
Leland, " there is in the side of a strong hille, a
place, wher ther be 24 holes or places in a roundel
for men to sit in, but sum lesse, and sum bigge
cutte oute of the mayne rok by mannes hand ; and
there children and young men camming to seke their
cattelle use to sitte and play. Sum caulle it the
Kounde Table." Dyffryn Aled Hall, long a seat
of the Wynnes, now belongs to Pyers Wynn Yorke,
Esq. — In the parish of Nantllyn was born David
Samwell, a poet of some merit, and a surgeon in
the royal navy ; in which latter rapacity he accom-
panied Cooke, and witnessed his death, of which
lie afterwards wrote a circumstantial account. He
died in 1799.
LLANARMON.] — At the distance of three miles
from Ruthin, eastward, is Llanarmon ; in the church
of which is a monument, inscribed to Gruffydd ap
Llewelyn ap Ynyr. In this parish, also, are many
tumuli ; some of which, on being opened, have been
found to contain urns, in an inverted position, flat
stones, and fragments of human bones. On a vast
mount of artificial formation, near the river, are the
foundations of a square fort ; and, not far distant,
a large cavern, which has never been explored.
LLANDEGLA.] — Llandegla, celebrated for its large
cattle fairs, is still more famous for a spring, the
waters of which are held salutary to persons afflicted
with the fulling sickness. A pleasing vale in the
Vicinity derived its name, Valle Crucis, from a mo-
numental column, called the pillar of Eliseg; com-
posed of a round shaft, supported by a square plinth,
together about twelve feet in height, and said to
fiave been erected, a thousand years ago, to the
memory of Eliseg, father of Brochmail, Prince of
Powys, slain at the battle of Chester, in 607. —
Situated in this secluded vale, is Linn Egwrst
A.hbey, anciently called De Valle Crucis, the first I
monastic institution, founded in Wales* In 1500
Madoc ap Gryffydd Maelor filled it with Cistercians,
and its revenues soon became considerable. Except
the lower part of the edifice, which had a vaulted
roof, supported by massive columns, three rows of
groined arches, and a large window, the church
alone remains, in the area of which wave a number
of tall ash trees. The windows, which were lancet-
shaped, were, like the doors, ornamented with mul-
lions and tracery, and the capitals of the pillars bear
evident marks of having been finished in the most
elegant manner, with foliage. So much of this
monument of monastic magnificence as remains
entire, has been converted into a farm-house, and
offices. Still, though polluted, it is venerable ; and
it will long continue to call up the groan of execra-
tion against its destroyers.
• Ivy'd Valle Cruois, time decay' d.
Dim on the brink of Deva's wandering flood,
Your rived arch glimmering through the tangled glade,-
Y our gay hills towering o'er your night of wood ;
Deep in the vale's recesses do you stand,
And, desolately great, the rising sigh command.
On a conical mountain, opposite Llangollen, and
one mile from Llan Egwrst, is Castell Dinas Bran,
the dilapidated remains of a primitive Welsh cas-
tle, long the seat of the lords of Yale. This edifice
was a rectangle, three hundred feet long, by one
hundred and forty in breadth, so defended by its
position on a precipitous rock, and by its fortifica-
tions, as to appear impregnable: being, also, sup-
plied with water by wells which were never ex-
hausted in the dryest season.
LLANFERUES.] — At Llanferres, was born Dr. John
Davies, a distinguished lexicographer and divine ;
who was the son of a wearer. He wrote a Welsh
Grammar, and a Dictionary in Latin and Welsh,
and Welsh and Latin ; and died in 1644.
LLANGOLLEN.] — Llangollen, a small but neat
town, 192 miles from the metropolis, is situated in
the vale of the same name, so celebrated for the
beauty of its scenery. The church is distinguished
for nothing but the elevated and picturesque cha-
racter of its site, which ceases to be remarkable,
among such an assemblage of beauties. The Dee,
foaming over rocks, in a wide and deep channel, is
here crossed by a bridge, of five large pointed arches,
erected on the ledge of a rock, before 1357. The
vale, through which the Dee thus rolls over cataracts
at almost every ten yards, is diversified with ver-
dant meadows, woodlands, and bold mountain
scenery, often interspersed with houses. Among
these are Plas Newydd, a simple but elegant seat,
inhabited by Lady Eleanor Butler, and Miss Pon-
sonby ; Llandyssilio Hall, the residence of Thomas
Jones, Esq. and the vestiges of Sychaint, once the
habitation of a being " not in the roll of common
men" — of one " who had a head to contrive, a tongue
to persuade, and a heart to execute, any mischief"—
of Owen Glyndwr. Three miles from .? Jfcngollen is
Brynkinallt,
WALES.
013
Brynkinallt, the seat of Lord Dungannofl, once Hie
residence of Sir John Trevor, a distinguished and
eccentric man, who was Master of the Rolls to
James II. and a privy counsellor to William III.
LLANRHAIADER.] — Oil a small eminence, in the
middle of the vole between Ruthin and Denbigh,
stands Llanrhaiader, (the Village of the Fountain,)
so called from a 'spring, the water of which is ac-
counted efficacious in several chronic, and especially
rheumatic disorders. The church, which is a hand-
some building, is remarkable for a large and elegant
east window, in which is painted the genealogy of
the holy family : the patriarch, Jesse, lying upon
his back. Here eight alms-houses, erected in 1729,
by the beneficence of a Mrs. Jones, afford a peaceful
asylum to as many poor widows, who have a small
weekly allowance, and a piece of garden-ground.
The Hall is the seat of Richard Wilding, Esq.
LI.ANRWST.] — On the eastern bank of the river
Conway, stands the small market town of Llanrwst,
surrounded by a luxuriant vale, which is rendered
fertile by the overflowings of the river, and by im-
proved methods of cultivation. The streets are
narrow, and the houses irregularly built. The
church is a mean building ; but an adjacent chapel,
built after a design by Inigo Jones, is distinguished
for its elegance. Hither have been recently removed
a large stone coffin, which contained the remains of
Llewelyn ap Jorwerth ; and an ancient monument,
inscribed : Hie JACET HOEL COYTMORE AP GRUFF :
VYCHAN AMN. Against the wall, also, of the chapel,
have recently been placed five brasses, which for-
merly decorated the floor, and which are justly re-
garded as fine specimens of chasing in the 17th
century. These are commemorative of some mem-
bers of the Wynn family ; and were executed by
an artist, named Crew. Between the town and
Gwydir, is an elegant bridge, thrown over the Con-
way, after a design of Inigo Jones, who was a native
of Llanrwst. This consists of three arches ; one of
which is sixty- one feet in span ; the others no more
than thirty. Near Voclas Hall, the seat of the Hon.
Mrs. Finch, is a large column, the last of several
which existed in the time of Camden, inscribed, in
Latin and Welsh, to the memory of a Prince Lle-
welyn.
LLAN ST. SIOR.] — In the parish of Llan St. Sior,
(the village of St. George) is nffynon vair, or holy-
well, to which salutiferous qualities are ascribed.
Here, also, is a fortified camp, which was occupied
by Owen Gwynedd after his masterly retreat from
the English, at Cil Owen.
MARCHWIEL.]— March wiel, a village, three miles
from Wrexham, has a small but neat church, lately
cased with freestone ; to which has been added a
stained glass window, by Egginton ; representing
the family arms and crests of the Myddeltons and
Yorkes. It contains, also, an elegant monument of
a young lady, a member of the latter family. Erd-
dig, the seat of Simon Yorke, Esq. is a large
structure, made up of many additions to the origi- j
nal design, and lately modernized by Wyatt. Of
this, the saloon and other rooms contain valuable
pictures ; the library is enriched with the Seabright
collection of manuscripts ; and the surrounding de-
mesne is strikingly beautiful and interesting, for the
remains of antiquity which it displays in a portioa
of Watt's Dyke, and the fragments of a Roman fort.
The father of the present proprietor was the author
of the " History of the Five Royal Tribes of Wales."
At Berse Hall, resides Thomas Lloyd, Esq.
RUABON.] — A small village, situated upon a hill, at
thejunction of theOswestry, Llangollen, and Wrex-
ham roads, is Ruabon, the church of which is dis-
tinguished for its neatness, and for tlie handsome
monuments which it encloses. An altar-tomb sup-
Sorts two figures, of an armed esquire and his lady,
ohn and Elizabeth ap Elis Eyton, who died in
1526-4. The first Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who
died in 1749, is represented, in a monument by Rys-
brack, as a fine athletic person, erect, and clad in a
loose robe ; attended by his son and daughter, in
kneeling attitudes. Two others, by Nollekins, re-
present the late Sir W. W. Wynn, and his wife
Lady Henrietta W. W. in the character of Hope.
A mural monument, erected for Henry Wynn, Esq.
who held many lucrative offices, under the admini-
stration of the day, and died in 1671, affords rt
striking contrast to all these. He is represented in
a full-bottomed coat, with short skirts, in square*"
toed boots, and in an attitude, expressive of fana-
tical grimace ; and is. attended by two figures, of
Sir John Wynn and his lady, almost equally ludi-
crous. A native of this place, and an incumbent of
the vicaruge, was David Powcl, translator into
English of the History of Wales, an editor of the
works of Giraldus, and author of a treatise " De
Britannica Historiarecti intelligenda." — Nearly half
a mile from Ruabon, to the south, is Wynnstay^
once the seat of Madwc ap Gryffydd Maelor, and
now the residence of Sir W. W. Wynn. The house,
erected at different times, and in different styles of
architecture, is destitute of elegance or uniformity ;
yet is not without that massive dignity, which con-
sists of magnitude. The interior is embellished with
some good pictures, mostly portraits of the Wynns,
the -Williamses, and the Seymours ; and a neat
building, adjacent, was formerly fitted up as a
theatre. The park, enclosed by a stone-wall, eight
miles in length, though not much diversified, is
well-wooded, and presents some extensive prospects ;
and considerable improvements have been effected,
by the addition of baths, plantations, and a fine
sheet of water. Here, also, an obelisk, 100 feet in
height, fluted and surmounted by a bronze vasr,
adds greatly to the beauty of the scene. The in-
scription : — FILIO OPTIMO MATER, GH.EN, SUPER-
STES,' informs us, that it was erected by maternal
affection and regret, to the memory of Sir W. W.
Wynn, the late baronet. Near the park, is Nant jr
Bele, the romantic dell though which " Dee pours
all his floods," so much praised by the tasteful Lyt-
644
WALES,
tleton. The district, (o the left of the road from
Ruabon to Wrexhain, is a valuable mining counlry,
rich in coal anil iron, and productive principally of
that kind of ore, used in the manufacture of ordnance-
RUTHIN.] — Situated, at the distance of six miles
from Denbigh, on the summit and slope of a consi-
derable eminence in tin; vale of Clwyd, is Rutliin,
(red fortress) so denominated from the castle, with
which it evidently originated. This editice was
built with red stone, in (he reign of Edward 1. by
Roger Grey, to whom that monarch granted the
whole of the vale of Clwyd, for his activity in sup-
pressing the insurgent movements of the Welsh. Its
History furnishes but two incidents of importance.
During a fair, held in 1400, Owen Glyndwr entered
Jluthiii with a small army, and sacked the town ;
but was unable to secure the fortress. In 1615, it
\vas held for the king ; but was surrendered to Myt-
1on, after sustaining a siege of two months; and
was then ordered to be dismantled. Judging from
the extent of the foundations, and the massive ap-
pearance of the fragments, it sterns to have been a
magnificent structure.* The area at present com-
prises a meadow, fives' court, and howling-green.
The town, though not so populous as formerly, is
still prosperous, ami contains a market-house and
town -hall. The church, though no more than a
chapel to Llanrudd, is a handsome building ; having
belonged, formerly, to a religious-house, founded
about 1283. The roof, particularly, is admired for
its rurious workmanship, being partitioned into
small squares, and ornamented with various sculp-
ture. The only monument, worthy of notice, is
sacred to the memory of Doctor Gabriel Goodman,
dean of Westminster, distinguished in the 16th cen-
tury as a linguist and a divine; arid for the trans-
lation of the first epistle to the Corinthians, in the
present version of the Scriptures. This person left
a monument of his philanthropy in an hospital which
IIP. established for the aged poor, and in a free-school
which he founded. The latter has long been cele-
brated for producing excellent classical scholars.
'The new gaol is a handsome structure, adapted to
the suitable accommodation of its unfortunate in-
mates, by arrangements for classification. The
•vicinity of Ruthin abounds with respectable man-
sions ; among which is Bathafern, once the seat of
the Lords Grey, and the Thelwalls, and now the
property of the Rev Roger Butler Clough. Pool
•"Park, and Bachyir/byd, both seats of Lord Bagot,
•are remarkable for the large trees in their vicinity,
especially chesnuts, one of which is said to be 24
iVet in circumference.
* This castle stands, on rock, much like red bricke,
The dykes are cut, with toole through stonie cragge :
The towers are live, the walles are large and ihicke,
The worke itselfe would shake a subjects bagge,
li he wero bent, to buyld Hie like a^ayne:
It rest* on mount, anil lookes ore wood and playne ;
It iud great store, of chambers finely wrought,
That t) me alone, to great decay hath brought.
CHURCHYARD.
WREXII AM ] -The town of Wrcxham, situated on
the. great road from Shrewsbury to Chester, at a
point, convenient for communication with the neigh-
bouring counties, is a place so flourishing, as to have
obtained, says Pennant, the appellation of the metro-
polis of North Wales. It is, however, less populous
than Carnarvon. Its features remind the traveller,
that having passed the frontier of Cambria, he is on
Ti) Saesiiach (English ground). The streets are
spacious, and cross each other at right angles ; and
the buildings, especially in the high street, are good.
At the upper end of the principal street, is a hand-
some edifice of the Doric order, used, in the upper
part, as a town-hall, and in the lower, as a market-
cross. A free-school was formerly endowed for the
instruction of twelve boys, by Valentine Brough-
ton ; who, without provision for the change of value
in money, directed ten pounds to be annually paid
to the master ; and the surplus of the endowment is
misapplied or embezzled by the trustee. The church,
formerly collegiate, is esteemed one of the seven
wonders of the couutryf ; and exhibits a specimen
of design, proportion, and decoration, equal, if not
superior, to any edifice built in the reign of Henry
VII. It was finished, in 1472; except the tower,
which was not complete till thirty-four years after-
wards. It consists, internally, of a chancel, penta-
gonal in shape ; of a nave with two collateral aisles ;
and a lofty quadrangular tower, at the west end.
The windows are pointed, at various angles, and
ornamented with tracery; the arches approach to
the sharp, pointed style ; and the embattled parapet
has diminishing crock cted pinnacles. Between the
windows of the, aisles are buttresses terminating in
similar pinnacles. The tower, one hundred and
thirty-five feet in height, is a master-piece of archi-
tectural art. Decorated at its base with abutments,
similar to those of the body, it is crowned by four
pierced lantern turrets, which rise twenty-four feet
above the balustrade of open-work ; and its sides
are embellished with full-sized statues of saints,
among whom St. Giles, with his attribute, the hind,
is conspicuous. The interior, which is spacious, is
divided by conglomerate columns, which support
pointed arches with grotesque carving ; and the
ceiling, composed of ribs of wainscot oak, is pecu-
liarly handsome. At the west end of the nave, a
grand receding arch, nearly the height of the build-
ing, is nearly filled by a window, once decorated
with stained glass. The altar-piece claims the at-
tention in a peculiar manner. It is a painting, by
P. P. Ruhens, of the institution of the eucharist ;
presented by Elilm Vale, Esq. A brazen eagle, and
f The seven wonders of North Wales are Snmcdon, in Car-
narvonshire; M Winifred's ll'tll, in Fiimshire ; Overtoil Church-
yard, and Gresford Bells, in live same county ; and Llangollcn
bridge, Pystil Hhaiadr, or the cataract of Llunrhaiadr, and
steeple, in Denbighshire.
its
WALES.
its pedestal, once served as the reading-desk. Here
are two good monuments, the work of Roubillac :
One, in memory of Mary, the daughter of Sir Rich-
ard Middleton, who died in 1747, represents the
deceased bursting from the tomb, with a counte-
nance, in which admiration and joy are finely
blended ; the other, to the memory of the Rev.
Thomas Middleton and his wife. Under the belfry
is an antique monument, found about 60 years since,
in digging a foundation for the iron gates of the
church-yard ; representing a knight in complete
armour, with his feet resting on some kind of qua-
druped, his legs extended, and a long spada at his
side, the hilt of which lie grasps with his right
hand. On the left arm is a shield with a quadruped
rampant, and circumscribed, in mutilated Saxon
characters : " Hie jacet . . . . ap Uowel." In the
chancel is an altar-tomb, with a recumbent figure of
Hugh Bellot, Bishop of Bangor and Chester, who
had a share in the English version of the Scriptures,
and died in 1596. The church-yard contains memo-
rials of various characters, of which several are
curiosities of their kind :
" Here lies John Sliore ;
I say no more
Who was alive
In sixty-five.
October Jilh."
" Here lies a church-warden ;
A choice flower in that garden,
Joseph Critcheley by name
Who lived in good fame;
Being gone to his rest
Without doubt lie's blest.
Died 10th of March 1 673*4."
A third, which is on a plain altar-tomb, comme-
morates Elihu Yale, who was an American, and,
having obtained the presidency of Madras, he, by an
enormous stretch of authority, caused his groom to
be hanged, for merely exercising a favourite horse.
" Born in America, in Europe bred, j
In Afric travelled, and in Asia wed ;
Where long he lived and thrived, at London dead. \
Much good, some ill he did ; so hope all's even,
And that his soul, through mercy's, gone to Heaven.
You that surrive and read this tale, take care,
For this most certain exit to prepare.
Where blest in peace the actions of the just
Smell sweet and blossom 111 the silent dust."
Wrexham is noted, like many other places, for an
annual fair, at which the retail traders of the neigh-
bourhood formerly purchased their stock of com-
modities ; but which, since the employment of riders,
has been less numerously attended. It is, however,
still frequented, especially by the Welsh, who bring
flannels of all staple, and various linens, linsey-
* This man, the opprobrium of his offiie, was Lord Chan-
cellor of England He wis educated at a free-school, but was
never rei>ulajlv called to the bar. His abilities were of the
first or<lrr ; and after practising a few years, he was made a
Welsh judge, and a baronet ; but he was destitute of all prin-
eiple, but fordid interest ; and his cruelties, during the trials
•f Monmouth's followers, humourously and characteristically
iv. — no. 187.
woolseys, coarse linens, horses, sheep, and black
cattle; and by dealers in Irish lintns, Yorkshire
and other woollen cloths, and Birmingham goods. ,
Two squares, or areas, ure fitted up with booths,
for the occasion ; and the fair, which commences
March 23, continues nine days. — Besides the stately
houses in the town of Wrexham, there are in the
neighbourhood, several elegant and substantial man-
sions, the principal of which are Cadwgaii Hall,
Sontlcy House, Bersham Lodge, and Trevalin Hall,
j — Acton, the seat of Sir Foster Cunditfe, Bart.,
was formerly the property of the Jefferies family,
and the birth-place of Judge Jefferies.* It is a good
mansion, on au elevated site; and both the building
and the demesne here recently derived considerable
improvement from the taste of their owner.
YSPTTTY IEVAN.] — Yspytty levan, a small vil-
lage, three miles from Llyn-Conway, was ibrnierJy
an hospital of the knights of St John of Jerusalem,
and a sanctuary for the protection of travellers, till
the suppression of their order, xvhen the neighbour-
hood became the notorious residence of banditti. In
the church are three alabaster figures, commemora-
tive of Rhys ap Meredydd, standard-bearer to
Henry VII. Lowry, his wife, and their son, Robert
ap Rhys, who was cross-bearer and domestic chap-
lain to the great cardinal-minister, Wolsey.
FLINTSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.] — Flintshire, the smallest
county in the principality, is bounded northward, by
the Irish Sea, north-eastward by the Dee asstuary,
eastward by Cheshire, and southward by Denbigh-
shire. In figure, it is a narrow slip of land, running
from north-west to south-east, about twenty-seven
miles in length, and ten in breadth ; with a detached
member, ten miles long and eight broad, on the
southern side of the Dee. Its whole area is not more
than 160,000 acres, of which 110,000 are in pasture,
20,000 arable, and the remainder waste. It is divided,
into five hundreds ; and contains one city, St. Asaph;
one borough, Flint; three market-towns, Mold,
Caerwis, and Holy well ; and twenty-eight parishes.
It is subject to the sees of Chester and St. Asaph,
and is included in the province of Canterbury ; and
for juridical government, it is visited by the chief-
justice of Chester and his associate puisne justice.
The houorial distinctions, which it confers, are the
titles, of Earl to the Prince of Wales, of Viscount
to the family of Ashburton, and of Baron Gredding-
ton to that of Kenyon. — The climate is cold, but
generally salubrious. The surface is considerably
diversified, though not decidedly mountainous, like
called by the King, " Jefferies' campaign," were detestable.
Swift retribution followed his crimes. The King was banished)
and Jefferies, attempting to quit the kingdom, in disguise, wag
sent to the Tower, where he died injthe following year. He
was buried privately in that fortress; but was afterwards re-
moved to Aldernianbury, where his coffin via discovered in
1810.
8* tli*
646
WALES.
the rest of North Wales. Near the shore of the f
Dee, the shore, rising rapidly, forms a ridge, which
runs for a considerable distance parallel with the
river, and is intermixed with a few valleys, often
fruitful, producing great plentyof wheat and rye,
and though clayey, abounding with grass, sufficient
to subsist numerous herds of cattle. The moun-
tains, particularly of this range, produce coal, lead,
free-stone, and limestone, chert or petro-silex, and
petroleum or rock-oil. The low-grounds are agree-
ably diversified with well-wooded dingles. The
soil consists for the most part of a mixture of clay
and gravel, in which the argillaceous ingredient
predominates. — Agriculture does not differ here,
from what it is among the farmers of Denbighshire.
Commerce is derived, almost solely from the mineral
productions of the county, particularly lead ore,
which is smelted upon the spot, and exported from
Chester, and some kinds of which contain silver
enough, to repay with profit the expense of separa-
tion from the lead. Calamine is chiefly exported ;
but some is used in a brass-foundery, at Holy well ;
and from the coal tnines of the southern part, the
city of Chester is principally supplied with fuel.
The rivers of Flintshire, except the Dee, to which
it has only a partial claim, are not navigable. The
Clwyd enters the county at Bodfari, and, proceed-
ing northward, empties itself into the Irish sea.
The Alun.which is the next in order for size, becomes
subterranean for a considerable distance near the
town of Mold ; and the Terrig, Wheler, Elwy, and
other minor streams, furnish water for the demands
of numerous mills, and afford for the table a various
supply of delicious fish. — When the Romans invaded
Britain, Flintshire was included in the territory of
the Ordovices ; and formed part of the grand divi-
sion of Gwynedd. A large portion of it, containing
the modern hundreds of Coleshill, Prestatyn, and
Rhuddlan, was long designated by the name Te-
/angle ; a term supposed to mean Fair England.
The vestiges of Roman power are few in number,
and indefinite in character : consisting, for the most
part, of a fort at Farnden, supposed to be an out-
post of Deva ; Varis, apparently a frontier-station,
and Caergwrle, a fortification of a similar descrip-
tion. The Saxons subdued Flintshire under Eg-
bert, and, under the name of Englefield, added it
to tlie Earldom of Mercia. In Domesday, it ap-
pears as a parcel of Chester ; and Hugh Lupus,
Earl of Chester, and uncle to the Conquerer, was
invested with unrestricted and unlimited tenure.
Subsequent possessors of the title and nominal lords
of the soil, were Edward, son of Henry HI. Simon
tie Montfort, and the Black Prince. Later kings,
when they created their sons princes of Wales, at
the same time invested them with the Earldom of
Chester, including Flintshire.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
O.ST. ASAPII.]— St. Aeoph, situated 209 miles from
London, though a city, and the see of a bishop, is
more distinguished for the natural beauties of its
site, than the splendour, magnitude, or number of
its buildings. It occupies the summit of a small
elevation, between the rivers Clwyd and Elwy,
from its vicinity to which latter stream it has obtained
the name also of Llan Elwy. Its founder was Cyn-
deyrn Garthwys ap Owain ap Urien Reged, belter
known by the name, Kentigern, to whom the site
was assigned by Maelgwyn Gwynedd, Prince of
Wales, in 560. His institutions were the cathedral
and a college, over which he, placed Asa, or Asaph.
For many ages after this event, and especially
during the disturbances which succeeded the Nor-
man Conquest, the neighbourhood was often so
agitated that the bishops were loth to reside ; and,
it is not till the records of the 12th century, that we
ore informed of the consecration of a prelate to this
see. This was one Gilbert, who was succeeded by
Geoffry of Monmouth. During the dissensions be-
tween the English and Welsh, in the 13th century,
the bishops were so distressed by the alienations of
their revenues, that they received voluntary contri-
butions for their support ; and Anian, who succeed-
ed, about 1277, petitioned the pontiff to remove the
see to Rhyddlan, as a place of safety. Hughes, wh»
filled-the episcopal chair, from 1573 till 1000, was
a great benefactor both to the town and the see;
having bequeathed lands and other sources of reve-
nue, for the founding of a free grammar-school, for
indigent youth ; and obtained a faculty from the
Archbishop of Canterbury, to hold that and other
benefices to the value of fifty pounds per annum,
in commendam. Among his successors, were the
learned William Morgan, the principal translator of
the Welsh bible ; Dr. Isaac Barrow, who repaired
the cathedral, and founded an alms-house ; Dr. Wil-
liam Bcjveridge, styled for his piety, " the apostolic
Beveridge ;" and Dr. Samuel Horsley, who died
in 1803. The present prelate is Dr. William Clea-
ver. The diocese contains the whole of Flintshire,
except three or four parishes ; all Denbighshire,,
except the deanery of Dyffryn Clwyd, and three
chapelries ; half the county of Merioneth ; three
parishes, in Carnarvonshire, thirty-seven, in Mont-
gomeryshire, and eleven in Shropshire ; making in.
all, one hundred and thirty-one churchesand cliapels;
all of which, except seven, are in the gift of the
bishop. The nett annual revenue is estimated at
3000 or 4000/. The original cathedral, built of
wood, was replaced by one of stone, which was
consumed by fire in 1282. A similar accident hap-
pened to the succeeding edifice in 1402 ; and it was
not repaired for nearly a century. The present
structure is neither large nor elegant. Its eastern
window, only, is decorated with stained glass, by
Eggiuton ; and with tracery, copied from the ruins
of Tintern Abbey, in Monmouthshire. Its internal
parts are a nave, two aisles, and a transept ; and,
without, it is surmounted by a square tower, ninety-
three feet high. Its length, from east to west, is
647
179 feet, and its breadth is sixty-eight. It contains
no monuments of interest ; except those of bishops
Owen, Griffiths, and Barrow ; the latter of which
bears an inscription of a character rather dubious :
Exuviae Isaac! Asapliensis Episcopi
In mamim Domini deposits
In spem lets resurrection!*
Per sola Cliristi mcrila.
ObiiUlictus reverendus pater festi tl. Johannis Baptist*,
An. Dom. 1680. ^Etalis 67.
Et translations sua undecimo.
O vos, transenntesin (Ionium Domini,
In domum orationis,
Orate pro conserve vestro,
Ut inveniat miscricordiam in die Domini.
The members, who compose the chapter, are the
dean, the arch-deac -n, who is the bishop, six pre-
bendaries, and seven canons. Besides whom, there
are, belonging to the church, four vicars choral,
four singing1 men, four choristers, and an organist.
The parish church is situated at the bottom of the
hill. The palace, long unfit for the residence of a
diocesan, has been lately rebuilt. The buildings of
the city, are, in general, low and small, and are
ranged in one long street. The neighbourhood is
celebrated for the beauty of its scenery, the fertility
of its soil, and thehealthfulness of its atmosphere.
BANGOR-ISCOED.] — Situated in the detached mem-
ber of Flintshire, separated by the Dee, and part
of Denbighshire, is Bangor-iscoed, long celebrated
for one of the most famous monasteries in the king-
dom. This was originally a college, founded, ac-
cording to several old writers, by Lucius, the son
of Coel, first Christian king of Britain, about the
year 180. Its eaily history, however, is, of neces-
sity, obscure ; but it appears to have been converted
into a monastery, about 530, by Cynwyl, who con-
stituted himself the first abbot. It then became
illustrious for the number and piety of its members :
having had at one time two thousand four hundred
monks, who, in companies of one hundred, hourly
succeeded each other in the performance of the
sacred offices ; so that the whole twenty-four hours
of every day were employed in the fulfilment of
divine duties. The monastery was celebrated for
its library ; and came, as Speed observes, to be
acknowledged, for its antiquity and the number of
its learned men, " as the parent of all other monas-
teries in the world." Turner relates the history of
its destruction. " The Beriiician conqueror, Ethel-
frith, renewed the war with the Cymry. He reached
Chester, through a course of victory. A part of the
forces of the Welsh assembled under Brocmail,
King of Powys.; he perceived the monks of Bangor,
twelve hundred in number, praying for the success
of their countrymen ;. he chose to confound them
with the soldiers armed to oppose him ; he destroyed
them ; and, appalled by their fate, the courage of
the troops of Brocmail wavered and fled. Ethelfrith
obtained a decisive conquest. Ancient Bangor itself
fell into his hands, and was demolished ; the noblev
monastery was levelled to the earth ; its most valu-
able library, the collection of ages, the repository
of the most precious monuments of the ancient
Britons, was consumed; half-ruined walls and gates
and rubbish were all that remained of the magni-
ficent edifice." William of Malmsbury, who wrote
soon after the Norman Conquest, describing the
monastery in his time, said, " there remained only
some relics of its ancient magnificence. There
were so many ruined churches, and such immense
heaps of rubbish, as were not elsewhere to be found."
In Leland's time, the site had long been cultivated,
and in ploughing, carved stones, human remains in
their cerements, and many emblematical figures,
were often discovered. At present not a vestige
remains. The village is distinguished for nothing
but its bridge, a beautifully light and elegant struc-
ture of five arches, repaired, according to an inscrip-
tion, in 1658. — Bangor has, by some antiquaries,
been supposed to l>e the Roman station Bonium,
Bovium, or Banchorium ; but Ilorseley places the
site of that place at Stretton, in Cheshire.
BASINGWERK.] — The village of Basingwerk, one
mile eastward from Holywell, is distinguished for
the remains of its ancient abbey ; for the vestiges
of a house, which once belonged to the Knights-
Templars ; and for a castle, once the key to this part
of the country. The nbbey, which had the names,
also, of Maes-Glas, and Greenfield monastery, is
beautifully situated in a meadow, between two bills,,
on the eastern side of the mouth of Holywell river.
It was founded, according to Tanner, in 1131, by
Ranulph, Earl of Chester ; others say, in 1150, by
Henry II. The abbot was repeatedly summoned to
attend in Parliament, by Edward I. ; and at the
Dissolution the annual revenue amounted to ISO/.
7s. 3d. The remains convey an imperfect idea of
the original architecture. The doors and lower
arches were semicircular and unornameuted ; and
the windows were fr>ng, narrow, and pointed ; but
the south wall of the transept, one doorway, and
one pointed arch, are all that remain of the church ;
and the offices have entirely disappeared. — The
house for the lay order of Knights Templars was
instituted by Henry II. for the purpose of defence
against the inroads of the Welsh ; and of this
'nothing more than some portion of the offices re-
mains.— Vestiges of the castle are yet visible in the
fragments and foundation of a wall at some distance
from the abbey, on the very margin of Watt's dyke.
— On aslope, among hanging woods, near the town-
ship of Bagilk, stands SJagillt Hall, a substantial
mansion of ancient erection, late the sent of Paul
Panton, Esq.— Mostyn Hull, a seat of Sir Thomas-
Mostyn, exhibits a variety of interesting features.
Approached by a venerable avenue, and a magnifi-
cent gateway, it stands in a small but beautiful park ;
and consisted originally of a square tower, nnd two
halls, in the larger of which, the festive orgies of the
baronial board were performed But large additions
wcce
(MS
WALES.
made, in 1631 ; and many of its pristine features
are defaced. Numerous paintings decorate the
rooms ; consisting for the most part of portraits,
which illustrate all the varieties of costume in the
several ages of their production. Among the trea-
sures of art, are also many antique statues, busts,
bronzes, and other articles of ancient or foreign pro-
duction. The library, though not magnificent, con-
tains a good collection of manuscripts, of which
several are illuminated ; the most valuable editions of
printed books, in almost every department of useful
and polite literature; and an elegant pencil drawing
of the Crucifixion, on velvet, from a picture of P. P.
Rubens. — In the neighbourhood, are numerous col-
lieries ; the different appearances of which are phe-
nomena, interesting to the geologist. — On the summit
of a height, called Mostyn mountain, is a monu-
mental stone, denominated Maett Acliwynjan, (the
stone of lamentation.) Its form is that oi an obelisk,
in height twelve feet, and two feet four inches in
thickness. On one side of the circular head, is the
representation of a Grecian cross ; and beneath it,
of the cross of St. Andrew. Still lower, is a naked
figure, brandishing in its haml a spear or javelin ;
and the intermediate spaces are filled with various
kinds of fret- work. From the numerous surround-
ing tumuli, some have supposed it a memorial of the
dead, slain in battle ; others assert that the sculpture
is too elegant for an age when such a mode of sepul-
ture prevailed ; and there appear to be no certain
grounds for determining the period of its formation.
— The township, called Tre'r Abbot, was so deno-
minated from a house, once the country seat of the
principals of Basiugwerk monastery ; and which
was the birth-place of the extraordinary character,
Miles Davies.*
CAERGWRLE.] — The village of Caergwrle is con-
tained in the parish of Hope; and, conjunctively
with that place and Flint, forms a prtscriptive
borough, which deputes one member to the British
Parliament. The etymology of its name, which
signifies the camp of the gigantic legion, is a suf-
ficient ground to suppose its occupation by the
Romans ; and this is confirmed by indubitable re-
mains of that people. A Roman hypocaust, or
vapour bath, was discovered by a garde.ner, while
digging, some tiles of which were inscribed
LEGIO XX. ; and this legion is known to have
been long stationed at Deva, in the neighbourhood.
Large beds of scoria?, the remains of Roman
smelting-works ; and the vestiges of two roads,
have also been discovered. Hence, Caergwrle ap-
pears to have been one of the outposts to Deva.
* Miles Dav rs flourished ,.t the comment einent of the 18th
century. In 1716, he published " Athens Britannicse," in
three Volume*. Another of his performances, and that on
which he rested his claim to poetic renown, was a poem on
St. David's clay, in Laim. In this, which is a strange col-
lection of names to be eulogised, he indulges in such strains
as tliese i
A castle was built here, upon a lofty hill, prior to
the reign of Henry II. ; but it was burned down,
by accident, in that of Edward 1. while he und his
queen, who had recently visited it, were at Car-
narvon. It was probably rebuilt in 1307, as the
manor was granted to John de Cromwell, upon the
express condition that he should repair the fortress.
In its present state it is highly picturesque: con-
sisting of a mutilated circular tower, and a few
fragments of walls ; but it was never large, and it
depended for security on the precipitous nature of
its site rather than on its own strength. On the
demesne, called Rhyddyn, close to the river Alun,
are two springs, the waters of which are strongly
impregnated with muriate of soda, and are re-
sorted to by scorbutic patients, to whom they are
very serviceable. In the parisli also, are extensive
lime quarries, in which are frequently found a spe-
cies of the fossil, called entrac/ii, in shape somewhat
cylindrical, about one inch long, and formed of a
number of sound joints.
CAERGWYS.] — Situated five miles south-eastward
from St. Asaph, is Caergwys, (the city of the sum-
mons) so called from having been a fortified place,
and afterwards the seat of judicature for the county
of Flint. Numerous copper coins of the empire
have indeed been discovered ; and in a field near
the town lately stood an upright stone, four feet six
inches high, inscribed : " HIC JACET MULIER
BO . OB1IT ,"
the monument, probably, of some heroine who fell
in battle, as many tumuli are scattered around. In
after ages, Caergwys was the scene of Eisteddfod,
or the session of bards and minstrels ; contests in
which these personages, previously to inauguration,
were to prove their skill betore constituted autho-
rities. The judges conferred suitable degrees and
rewards, with permission to the bards to exercise
their talents before the princes, nobility, and gentry
of the principality ; and they were themselves ap-
pointed by a commission from the prince, or, after
Ilia Conquest, from the English kings. Without a
licence from this court, no person was allowed to
follow the profession of a bard or minstrel. la
1568, a commission was issued by Queen Elizabeth
for the holding ol Eisteddfod. A meeting \*as held
May 29, 1798, and another sometime in the year
1818, in consequence of notices published by the
gentlemen of the Gwyneddigion or North Wales
society in London. On these occasions, the town-
hall was prepared for the reception of a numerous
and respectable company ; the subjects were chosen
by the Gwyneddigion ; and the number of bard*
Roberto atone Mansei, Buckley, Vatighan, et
Trevor, et Hanmer, cumque Srilesbury
Stradlinque, Conway, Reims, Anwill
Morganius, Theleolque, Moston.
Bennet, beata, secumenicon nota
Davidis ortn, est Davisius nepos
Wynne, atque Griffith, atque Pennant
Llwydd quoque Fowell et Ellis, Humphreys, &c.
who
WALES. ,
649
•who attended was about twenty. There were also
many vocal performers, and harpers. The pro-
ductioiis were animated and of great merit ; and
the musical performances were so excellent, as per-
haps never to have been surpassed in such contests.
DISERTH.] — A small village, situated among
hills, from which falls a beautiful cataract, is Di-
serth, noted in ancient times as the site of a castle,
which formed a link in the chain of border for-
tresses. This edifice, which was destroyed in 1260,
by Llewelyn, stood upon a calcareous hill, of which
it occupied nearly the whole summit. The present
remains possess but small interest, consisting merely
of a few shattered fragments of walls, and an out-
work of a square form, with deep fosses, cut through
the solid limestone rock. In the churchyard, which
is romantically situated in a bottom, bounded by
some picturesque rocks, are several yew trees, and
a curiously ornamented column, with the shafts of
another, called traditionally Croes Eiiiion, supposed
to have been erected for a hero of that name, who
fell in battle, at the destruction of the fortress.
FLINT.] — Flint, situated near the sea, 204 miles
from the metropolis, is the county town, and a place
of great antiquity, though small, and irregularly
built. Its origin, and the etymology of its name,
are alike unknown. Its form, situation, and the
relics of Roman residence which have been and still
are often discovered, indicate, that, though not a
Roman station, it was probably a Roman British
town, under the protection of the advanced posts,
connected with Deva. The name does not occur
in Domesday, because it was in the district, deno-
minated the hundred of Atiscros. The castle, si-
tuated on an isolated rock, in a marsh near the left
bank of the Dee, had formerly the channel of the
river immediately beneath its walls ; which are still
at high tides washed by the waters of the icstuary.
Much doubt has arisen respecting the period of its
erection. Camden mentions this work as begun by
Henry II. and finished by Edward I. ; while Leland
ascribes it entirely to the latter monarch. In 1280,
an order was issued for the custody of the gate, when
probably the castle was first garrisoned ; and the
constable of the town was appointed governor, with
a yearly salary often pounds, Edward III. granted
it to the Black Prince; and Richard H. to Percy,
Earl of Northumberland, who requited his favours,
by inveigling him to the fortress, where he resigned
him into the hands of the invading Duke of Lan-
* Froissart records an incident, on this occasion, quite cha-
racterislical of his usual manner :— " And as it was enfcurmed
me kyng Richarde had a gray-houmle called Matin; who always
wayted upon the kynge, and would knowe no man eUe. For
when so everlhe kynge did ryde, he that kepte the grayhoimde
dyd fette hym lose, and he woUle slreyght runne to the kynge
and lawne uppon him, and leape with his fore fete upon the
kynges shoulders. And as the kynpe and the erle of Derby
talked togyder in the courte, the grayhounde, w ho was wont to
leape upon the kynge, left the kynge and came to the erle of
Derby, duke of Lancastre, and made to hym the same friendly
countmaunce and chere as he was wonte to do lathe kynge.
VOL. IV.— NO. 187.
caster.* In the civil war of the reign of Charles I»
the castle was put m a state of defence, and garri-
soned, by Sir Roger Mostyn, a gentleman of ancient
family, large possessions, and influence so great,
that in twelve hours he raised fifteen hundred men,
for the king. In the year 1043, it was attacked,
and suffered a long siege, by Sir William Breretou
and Sir T. Myddleton, and after a gallant defence
by the governor was surrendered on honourable
terms. But it was retaken by the Royalists, and
was a second time besieged in 1646, when it was
again given up to the Parliamentarians, under Myt-
ton ; and in the following year, it was dismantled
under a general order of the Commons. At the
Restoration it was resumed by the crown ; a con-
stable was again appointed ; and this officer, accord-
ing to ancient royal grants, still appears in the two-
fold capacity of governor of the fortress, and mayor
of the borough. — The building was originally of an
oblong quadrangular figure, strengthened at the
corners b y circular towers. One of these, disjointed
from the walls, was larger than the rest, and seems
to have been an additional work. This consists of
two concentric circular walls, each six feet thick,
and includes an area not more than twenty-feet in
diameter, which Froissart calls the donjhi. Hither,
as to a place of security, persons might retire in
times of emergency ; as it had a zig-zag passage,
and many narrow-arched entrances, very capable
of defence, by a small number of persons. The
court of the castle contains about an acre of ground,
and it had a barbican, or out-work, composed of a
square tower, which was, originally, joined to the
castle by means of a draw-bridge. — Edward I.
granted to the men of Flint, the privilege of incor-
porating themselves ; iu consequence of which the
towu is governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, and other
subordinate officers; and, in conjunction witk
Rhyddlan, Overton, Caergwrle, and Caerwys, it
sends one member to parliament. Though Flint
appears to have been originally well laid cut, and
is now frequented as a watering place, it is a small,
irregular, and apparently poor place. None of the
public buildings are above mediocrity ; if we except
the New Gaol, which was completed in 1785, and
which is constructed with a considerable degree of
attention to the comfort of its unfortunate inmates.
HAN HERE.] — The village of Hanmere, often ad-
mired for its charming situation, and its handsome
church, has in its vicinity a lake, containing more
The duke, who knewe not the grayhoimde, demaundcd of the
kynge what the grayhounde wolde do. Co<yn, quod the kynge,
it is a great good token to you, and an evil sygne to me. Sir-
howe knowe you that quod the duke ? I knowe it well, quod
Ihekynfle. The grayhounde makfth you chere this claye as
kynge of Englandc, as ye shall In', and [ shall he deposed : the
grayhounde hath this knowledge naturallye : therefore take
hym to you ; he wyll foloweyou and torsake mee,— The duke
understoode well those wordes, and cheryshed the grayhounde,.
who wolde never after followe kynge Ruliarde, but 'followed,
the duke of. Lancastre."
SB * than
WALES.
than fifty acres. In (he church, which is, a good
embattled structure, are many monuments of the
Ilanmer family ; the most interesting of which com-
memorates Sir Thomas Ilanmer, Speaker of the
House of Commons in the reign of Queen Anne,
and celebrated in the latter part of his life for his
devotion to literary pursuits, in which he produced
an amended and magnificent edition of Shakspeare,
with copious notes, in six quarto volumes. His
epitaph, written by Dr. Friend, of Westminster
School, is, like other compositions of the same cast,
fulsome in its praises ; and it ought, perhaps, to
detract somewhat, from the reputation of the de-
ceased, that it was written with his knowledge.
HAWARDEN,] — The large and well-built town of
Hawarden, commonly called Harraden, or Harding,
owed, like many other places, its origin to a fort-
ress, the remains of which now form one of its
most remarkable features. It was a strong hold of
the Saxons ; and, after the Conquest, belonged to
the family of Montalto, at which period it was
surprised by the .Welsh. The next possessors were
the Stanleys, Earls of Derby, the last of whom being
executed ai'ter the battle of Worcester, it was pur-
chased under the act of sequestration, by Mr. Ser-
jeant Glynne, the ancestor of the present possessor,
Sir S. Glynne, Bart. At an early period of the
Civil War, it was seized and garrisoned, by the
Parliamentarians ; but in 1643, it was surrendered,
after a fortnight's siege, to Sir Michael Earnley ;
and the royalists appear to have retained possession
till March, 17, 1645, when, after sustaining a close
siege of one month, it was, by the king's mandate,
reluctantly given up by the governor, Sir William
Neal, to General Mytton. In the same year, the
Parliament, alarmed by the disaffection of the troops,
ordered it, with many others, to be dismantled. —
The remains, which were a few years since cleared
from the accumulated rubbish, consist of little more
than the pentangular foundations, fragments of
•walls, several subterraneous apartments, and the
keep ; in which, within a few years, an elegant
room has been formed, and rather incongruously
decorated with painted statues. — Hawarden Park,
in which these ruins are included, contains the seat
of the present baronet, which was erected, in 1752,
by Sir John Glynne. The church is a plain and
neat building, not remarkable for its architecture or
i(s monuments ; but distinguished for the richness
of the benefice, amounting to upwards of three
thousand pounds per annum. Westward from this
edifice, is a mount, on the summit of which, is a
cavity, resembling the fortification of a small camp.
HOLYWEU..] — Holy well,orTre-ffynnon, (the town
of the well,) so called from a spring endowed with
sanative qualities, is situated about II miles from
Newmarket, and from London about 207. Its site,
on- the slope of a hill, and in the immediate vicinity
of a wooded vale, is very beautiful ; and thehouses
which, till the beginning of the last century, were
mean, and for the most part roofed with thatch,
assume a respectable appearance. The church,
erected in 1769, on the site of a former edifice, is a
plain structure, with a quadrangular tower, in which
is one bell. There are also two Catholic chapels,
and one conventicle for dissenters. On a precipitous
hill, above the church, once stood a cnste//, or for-
tress, of which not the smallest vestige remains.
About the middle of the last century, a Roman hypo-
caust was discovered in digging the foundation of
a mill ; and other circumstances have appeared as
evidence of Roman habitation. — The most remark-
able object in the neighbourhood, and that from
which probably the town derived not only its name,
but its existence, is a fine spring at tho foot of the
hill. Tiie legendary history of its origin is thus
narrated : — Winefred, the daughter of Thewith, was
instructed in the exercise of the Christian religion,
by Beuno, her uncle, a- man of superior sanc-
tity. Being very beautiful, she attracted the affec-
tions of Caradoc, the king's son, who, becoming
more inflamed by her chaste rejection of his passion,
attempted to obtain by force, that which was denied
to his solicitations. The maid fled from him ; and,
as he pursued her, wrought up to the highest pilch
of resentment by her just condemnation of his
actions, he furiously drew his sword, and struck off
her head. From the spot on which it fell, a spring,
of great frigidity and healing virtue, suddenly be-
gan to flow. Nor was this the only miracle. Beuno
was enabled, by his prayers, and the favour of God,
to restore to the world so bright, an ornament ; who,
having founded a convent, removed to Gwytherin,
in Denbighshire ; and at the end of her natural
life, was interred beneath four rude stones, still
shewn as the tomb of Winefred. — Such was the
reputed origin of a spring, which has retained ita
character for healing, till the present day. It is,
however, rather probable, that the virtue of the
water resides in its excessive coldness. It rises, at
the astonishing rate of twenty-one tons per minute,
and is received into a well of a polygonal shape,
covered by a sort of colonnaded cupola, the groined
roof of which is richly decorated with imagery ; and
adjoining is a neat chapel in the pointed style, which
has been recently converted into a charity-school.
Two festivals are kept in memory of two great
events : the martyrdom of St. Winefred, and her
death ; the former on the 22d of June, the latter on
the 3d of November. — The hill behind the town is
productive in lead ore, the mining of which, termed
the Holywell level, was commenced in the year 1774.
For a long time, after the first venture, nothing was
found to compensate the vast expenditure but shale,
chertz, and limestone ; till, at the depth of six hun-
dred yards, a rich vein of ore was discovered, which
promised to reward their anxious cares to the utmost.
Shortly after, a still deeper and richer vein was laid
open, and the concern soon became flourishing. The
level, as it is justly termed, is carried horizontally
into the hill, and, as it drains the work, becomes a
canal, by which the ore is produced to day. Vertical
WALES.
8,51
shafts aro formed for ventilation. The products
are limestone, chertz, lead ore, of which one kind
contains silver, calaminc, and blende. The astonish-
ing copiousness of the Holywell spring supplies a
stream, which gives motion to numerous mills.
Among these are corn and cotton mills ; but the
most remarkable are termed the brass-battery mills.
These, formed in 1765, are supplied with plates
from a smelting-housc. Various are the articles of
manufacture : as, large brass pans for the process
of salt-making, all culinary utensils, and African
toys. The copper-works of the Parys-mine com-
pany also consist of several kinds of manufactories :
as, rolling-mills, where the pigs of copper are re-
duced to plates or sheets ; a forge, for making bolts
and nails, rudder-bauds and braces for shipping :
and wire-mills, where slips of copper, brought
from a slitting mill, are con verted into wire.
HOPE.] — The small tract, called Hopedale, which
has been occasionally considered a member of Den-
bighshire, derived its name from the village of
Hope, which lies a mile from Caergwrle Castle.
The church of this place contains two mural monu-
ments, one of which commemorates Sir John Tre-
vor, comptroller of the navy, in the reign of Queen
Elizabeth. A charter was granted to Hope, with
Caergwrle, by* the Black Prince, with several im-
munities.— Plas Teg, the seat of Mr. Roper, built
in 1610, by Inigo Jones, exhibits much grandeur
and simplicity of style ; comprising a spacious hall
or centre, and two square towers, like wings, five
stories in height. — Heartsheath Hall is the seat of
G. Lloyd Wardle, Esq.
KILKEN.] — The church of Kilken is remarkable
for its carved roof, which was carried from Basing-
wcrk Abbey, at the Dissolution. — Kilken Hall is the
seat of T. M. Edwards, Esq. Moel y Fanna, being
the highest point of the Clwydian hills, has been
made the site of a monument to commemorate the
royal jubilee of 1809. In the vicinity are considera-
ble lead-mines, of which Pen y'Frori. is incalculably
rich, having produced seventy tons of solid ore per
week ; and Llyn y Pandu contains one head of solid
ore, upwards of six feet wide, and another four
feet, both yielding abundantly. Mills also and
smelting houses are erected on the stream. — On
Moel Arthur, a lofty height of the Clwydian hills,
is a fortified camp, apparently British, and one of
the numerous intrenchments which guarded the coun-
try of the Ordovices. — Penbedu Hall is a good
mansion, late the residence of William Williams,
Esq. in the vicinity of which is acarnedd or tumu-
lus, with a few upright stones. — Bodfari, conjec-
turing from its name alone, has been called the
Roman Varis. Situated on a flat, imbosomed by
woods, is Bachegraig, a singularly constructed
house, late the property of Mr. Piozzi, husband of
Mrs. Thrale. A square area, called the court, is
surrounded by buildings to the height of six stories,
and covered in by a cupola. The whole was erected
in 1567, by Sir Richard Clough, known for his
riches, and his partnership with Sir Thomas Gres-
ham, to whom he devised his property ; and with
whom he shared the building of the Royal Exchange.
MOLD.] — A small market-town, composed of one
long street, in a small and fertile plain, surrounded
by hills, which abound with mineral treasure, is
Mold, called in Welsh Yr IVyddgrig, (the Conspi-
cuous Barrow.) On amount, partly natural, partly
artificial, a castle was erected soon after the Con-
quest, of which no vestige remains. The church,
a handsome edifice of the reign of Henry VII. con-
sists of a nave, and two side aisles, with a tower at
the western end. The interior, which is decorated
in a florid style, is distinguished by clustered co-
lumns with foliated capitals, figures of angels bear-
ing shields, and several elegant monuments. Among
these, one commemorates Robert, Bishop of St*
Asaph, in 1536, and another Robert Davis, Esq.
of Llannerch, who died in 1728, and who is pre-
posterously enough represented in Roman costume.
In the vicinity of Mold, are large cotton mills, and
several seats. — Lees wood is a large handsome man-
sion, late the seat of Sir George Wynne ; Tower,
which belonged to the late W. Wynne, D. D. is
curious for its style of architecture, that, which
united the convenience of the mansion, with the
strength and security of the feudal edifice ; Ner-
quis Hall, the seat of Miss GifFord, stands near a
chapel of the same name, which is decorated with a
spire ; Rhual, the residence of T. Griffith, Esq. con-
tains some valuable family pictures. Near the last-
mentioned, is Maesy Gannon (the field of Germanus,)
so called from a victory obtained by the missionary
bishop of that name, at the head of the Christians,
over the pagan inhabitants of North Britain, in
Easter-week, 448. To perpetuate the recollection
of this triumph, N. Griffith, Esq. caused to be
erected in 1736, a pyramidal monument of stone,
with a suitable inscription.
NEWMARKET.] — The small town of Newmarket,
which rose almost entirely during the last century,
under the auspices of John Wynne, Esq. of Gop,
anciently bore the nameofTrelawnydd. The church
is an antique building, near which is a handsome
cross. The town has also a respectable charity-
school. On an eminence,, in the vicinity, is a large
tumulus, of limestone ; and on the road to Care-
gwys, these places of ancient sepulture are numer-
ous, indicating a sanguinary contest.
NORTHOP.] — Three miles from Flint, southward,
is the extensive village of Northop, the church of
which is large, with a lofty embattled tower. Within,
is a tomb, with an inscription, nearly obliterated
" LLEWC ANNO DOMINI, 1482 ;" intended,
says tradition, to commemorate a fair maiden, named
Lleuci Llwyd, who, celebrated for her beauty was
beloved bya bard ; but dying, the unexpected sight of
her corpse caused him to faint, after which he wrote
a beautiful elegy on the deceased. — Some years ago,
a strong pier or jetty was erected on the river for
the protection of vessels, bound to or from Chester ;
aa
WALES.
and not far distant are numerous potteries, and a
manufactory of fire-bricks. — The precinct, called
Atis cross, adjoining to Flint, contains vestiges
of mining operations, which must have been carried
on at a remote period. At this place, the Dee,
which at ebb-tide dwindles into a narrow insignifi-
cant streamlet, forms, at high-water, an {estuary of
great width.— Situated in a sylvan dingle, a quarter
of a mile from the road to Chester, are the ruins of
Euloc Castle ; the remains of a large tower, with
a kind of horn -work, and a circular tower, over-
grown with ivy, the whole isolated by a deep natu-
ral ravine, and a foss, and forming one of the most
picturesque objects imaginable. Coed Euloc, at
this place, is one of those narrow and depressed
defiles, so perilous to an invading army. Here, in
1158, the advanced guard of Henry II. was sur-
prised and slaughtered by David and Conon, sons
of1 Owen Gwynedd ; the King himself hardly escap-
ing with life.
OVERTON.}— On a lofty ridge, near the Dee, is
the village of Overtoil, the church of which is a
handsome structure, surrounded by yew trees of
great size and beauty. — Gwernhailed, the seat of
Philip Lloyd Fletcher, Esq. is a handsome and
substantial residence, the site of which commands
an extensive prospect of the Dee, and the surround-
ing country.
RHYDDLAW.] — On a flat, in the middle of the vale
of Clwyd, and two miles from the mouth of the ri-
ver, stands Rhyddlan, once a considerable town,
but now a village, containing little more than four-
score houses, the inhabitants of which enjoy the
elective franchise, conjointly with those of Flint.
It is distinguished chiefly for the ruins of its castle.
This fortress appears to have been erected, before
the Norman Conquest, by Llewelyn an Sitsylt.
During the conflicts which preceded and followed
that event, it was of great importance, and was often
taken bv the contending parties. Edward I. made
it his depot for military stores ; and an unsuccessful
attack was directed against it by David the brother
of the last Llewelyn. It was afterwards surprised
by the Welsh ; and Edward, to prevent future at-
tempts of the same kind, made it almost impreg-
nable. He often selected it as his own residence,
holding a parliament there in 1283, (when Queen
Eleanor was delivered of a daughter) and several
-times celebrating the festival of Christmas. Dur-
ing the civil war of Charles I. Rhyddlan Castle was
•first occupied by the royalists, but surrendered in
July 1646 to General Mytton, and was, by order of
the Parliament, dismantled. Originally, the castle
• He was born June 14, 1726 O. S. according to his own re-
Ution, made, very considerately, "to pre\enc all disputes
ibowt the time and place." At bis father's death, he became
!»«ter «jf a smart estate, which was augmented by the disco-
jery of a lead Tntne. An incident in early life decided the
character of his future pursuits. A gentleman presented him
with Willoiifchby's Ornithology, the perusal of which indicated
the field of his carter. He first made the tour of the British
86
was built of red sand stone, in a form approaching
to a square, flanked by six towers, three of which
remain. The ditch, which is both broad and deep,
is faced on both sides with stone; and the steep es-
carpment next the river was guarded by square
bastions, one of which remains. At a small distance
was a monastery of black-friars, founded before the
year 1268. Edward I. made Rhyddlan a free bo-
rough, endowing it with numerous privileges : such
as to be governed by a mayor and bailiff elected by
its own burgesses, the expulsion of jews from the
town, the liberty of a forest and free warren, a gild
cum fiansa, et loth et sfiotfi, sok, sak et theam et iiifan-
gen theft, et lib. per lotaiti terrain de Theoloniis, lesta-
gio, muragio, Danegeld, Gayreite, &c. &c. Morfa
Rhyddlan, an extensive marsh of red argillaceous
soil in the vicinity, was the field, in 795, of a dread-
ful battle, between OflFa, King of Mercia, and the
Britons, led on by Caradoc, in which the latter was
slain. Pengwern, a handsome modern structure,
is the seat of Sir E. P. Llwyd, Bart. ; Boddle-
wyddun of Sir John Williams ; and Kinmael Hall,
that of the Rev. Edmund Hughes. The Clwyd is
navigable as high as the bridge of Rhyddlan ; but
vessels of burden take in their cargoes of corn, tim-
ber, and other produce, at its mouth.
WHITEFORD.] — The village of Whiteford is re-
markable for a circular tower on a hill, the archi-
tecture of which is said to be Roman. In the
church are several monuments of the Mostyn fa-
mily ; and in the church-yard this laconic epitaph :
Vita caduca, vale!
Vita perennis, ave !
"A
In this parish is Downing, distinguished as the
seat of the late natural historian and topographer,
Pennant : a good mansion, in the form of the letter
H, with the wings gabled. It was erected in 1627.
The site is low and sequestered, and is finely shel-
tered by surrounding groves. Pennant himself
says, " 1 have Cow ley's wish realized, a small
house and a large garden." The library is large
and well chosen ; and the different rooms are de-
corated with pictures ; portraits, chiefly, and sub-
jects of natural history, among which, the illustra-
tions of animal life in the zones, by Peter Paillou,
are masterly productions. One curiosity is a smok-
ing room, furnished in the antique style, with carv-
ings, and adorned with spoils of different European
beasts of chase. Downing is no less celebrated for
the residence than the birth of Thomas Pennant, to
whom the world is so much indebted for topogra-
phical information. *
re ; and, in 1755, commenced a fcorrespondence on physio-
logical subjects with Linnaeus. He ne.Nt visited (he continent,
where he formed a friendship with Burton, Haller, and Pallas,
and sa* Voltaire. In 1709, and 1772, he made the tour of
the Highlands and the Western Isles, and returned loaded with
honours, civic and literary. North Wales next received his
attention ; and many of his works were published about this
period ; among which his " Outlines of the Globe" will be a
, MERIONETHSHIRE.
WALES.
MERIONETHSHIRE.
CF.NERAL DESCRIPTION.] —Merionethshire, called
in Welsh Meirionydrl, the only county of Wales,
which retains its early denomination, is one of the
maritime divisions of North Wales ; and is bounded
northward by Carnarvonshire, eastward hy Mont-
gomeryshire, and by Cardiganshire to the south-
ward. Its length, from east to west, is about
forty-four miles ; and its breadth, from north to
south, about thirty-six. Its total contents stand es-
timated at 430,000 acres, of which 286.000 are not
enclosed. Anciently it formed part of Gwynedd,
and consisted of three cantrefs : it is now divided
into hundreds, five in number ; and contains thirty-
seven parishes. The market towns are Harlech,
the capital, Bala, Dolgellen, Dinas y mowddti, and
Corwen ; and Ty wen and Barmouth have lately
aspired to the same distinction. In ecclesiastical
government, Merionethshire is included within the
diocese of Bangor. The climate is inclement, on
account of the great number of " snow-clad sum-
mits ;" but the face of the country, which was pro-
nounced, by Giraldas, the roughest and most un-
pleasant in the principality, compensates, by its
grandeur and variety, for the frigidity of the air,
and almost for the barrenness of the soil. The
mountains are indeed, though not so high as those
of Carnarvonshire, very lofty, and terminating for
the most part in sharp peaks, partaking in a high
degree of the sublime. The principal are Cadair
Idris, the two Arans, Benllyn, and Fowddwy. The
rivers are the Dee, formed by two streamlets, which
rise on Aran-ben-Llyn, and, quickly uniting their
waters, form the lake called Pemble-meer, flow
throw the vale of Eidernion, and enter Denbigh-
shire near Corwen ; the Maw, which rises near the
centre of the county, receives near Dolgellen the
Eden, and falls into the sea at Abermaw or Bar-
mouth ; the Dovey, which springs from the moun-
tains bordering on Montgomeryshire, and becomes
a considerable ."estuary below Aberdovey ; and se-
veral streams, which form the Traeth-mawr and
Traeth-lychan. The lakes are Llyn-tegid, near
Bala ; Llyn-talyllyu, at the fort of Cadair-idris ;
and a few others of minor note. Leland informs us,
that in his time several parts of the county had
" meately good plenty of wood ;" but the sylvan
beauties of the district have disappeared. It should,
however, be observed that a spirit of improvement
displays itself in the forming of new plantations,
which are very promising. The soil, as might be
expected in a county of such a diversified appear-
ance, is very various : the valleys contain schistose
clay, and the more level parts of the country abound
with peat. The lowlands afford sustenance to nu-
durable monument of his descriptive excellence. His other
' works relate chiefly to zoology ; but hit topographical writings,
which are of a peculiar character, are very considerable. The
•VOL. iv. — NQ. 188.
merous herds of horned cattle, and the hills serve
as pastures for sheep, while great numbers of goats
browse upon the adjacent crags. The aggregate
of arable land is said not to exceed 50,000 acres :
but great improvements in tillage have been ef-
fected during late years : many thousand acres of
peat land have been drained ; and the embankment
of the Traeth-mawr has redeemed a district which
now lets for seven times its former value. The
original roads of Merionethshire, instead of winding'
round the numerous eminences, like those of other
Alpine countries, make sudden and violent ascents ;
but great reformation has been effected in this, as in
other works ; and more than two hundred miles of
new or improved roads have been formed within the
last half-century. The manufactures of the county,
which are not considerable, consist, principally, of
woollen goods : as strong cloths, druggets, kersey-
meres, flannels, stockings, gloves, wigs, &c. made
of the country wool. Merionethshire was known to
the Romans, and obtained from them the name of
Mervinia. Vestiges of their residence are found
near Bala, at Caer Gai, near Llanuwchllyn, at
Cefyn Caer in the parish of Penul, &c. ; and nu-
merous coins have been found of Domitian and
other emperors. A road, denominated Sarn Helen,
has also been traced from the fine camp of Tom men.
y Mur to Festiniog, the branches of which are con-
jectured to lead to Conovium and Segontium. Its
retired situation and inaccessible character did not
always secure it from invasion during the Saxon
and Norman dynasties in England ; and numerous
remains of fortified posts shew that it has often been
the scene of warfare, even betweeu the princes of
the country.
CHIEF Towxs, PARISHES, &c.
ABERDYFI.] — Four miles southward from Towyn
is the hamlet of Aberdyfi, situated at the mouth of
the Dovey, from which it has its name. The in-
habitants are mostly fishermen, who trade to Towyn
and Aberystwith, and have a ferry over the Dovey.
At the distance of six or seven miles is Carreg,
which, like Aberdyfi, partakes of the export trade
in flannels.
BALA.] — Situated 202 miles from London, on the
bank of an extensive lake or pool, is Bala, a mar-
ket-town, distinguished for the Roman remains in
its vicinity. These consist of three large and con-
spicuous encampments ; on one of which, a fortress
was founded, in 1202, by Llewelyn ap Jonvtrth.
At present the town is noted for its vast trade in.
woollen goods, as stockings, gloves, and caps,
called Welsh wigs ; and for its well-attended mar-
kets, at which from 200/. to 300/. value of goods
are sold weekly. The tasteful Lyttelton conferred
death of his only daughter, iu 1794, produced a pulmonary
complaint, which cause:! his death, in 1798.
8 c
a sort
654
WALES.
a Sort of celebrity on the place, by his praise of the
women : " Ho saw here," he said, " some of the
prettiest girls he ever beheld." Bala is governed
by two bailiffs and a common council. At a quar-
ter of a mile from the town, lies Llyn Togid, Pem-
ble Mere, or Bala Lake, extending in length four
miles, by about one in breadth. Its greatest depth
is forty feet, but in stormy weather, and after rains,
it frequently rises eight or nine feet. The fish,
with which it abounds, are pike, perch, trout, roach,
and shoals of gwyniaid, (literally white fish) the
sa/mn luveratm of Linnaeus, the weight of which
seldom exceeds four pounds. In June, 1781, a
tract of country, in the vicinity, was totally inun-
dated by a water-spout, which destroyed many
houses, and swept away great numbers of cattle :
rolling down from the mountains enormous rocks,
and raising the waters of the Dee to a frightful
height. Pont Llyn Dyffros, a bridge of one arch,
fifty feet in span, thrown over the Glyn, is, with the
surrounding scenery, comparable to the celebrated
Pont Aber Glas-llyn, in Carnarvonshire.
BARMOUTH.] — At the distance of twelve miles
from Harlech, near the mouth of the river Maw, is
Bnrmouth, called in Welsh Abermaw, resembling in
external feature the little town of Robin Hood's
Bay in Yorkshire, being so built on the sloping side
of a lofty rock, that ledges or tiers of houses are
ranged one above another. Notwithstanding this
irregularity, and the general dirtiness of the place,
it is to the western part of the island, what Wey-
inouth is to the south — a genteel watering-place,
frequented by many respectable families from the
surrounding country, as well as from the neigh-
bouring counties of England ; but the accommoda-
tions for bathing are not eligible. The boarding-
houses are, however, comfortable ; and the public
amusements, not altogether undistinguished by
taste. — Barmouth is the only haven or port belong-
ing to the county ; and though the harbour is
small, the entrance difficult, and even dangerous,
and the coast destitute of land-marks, the industry
of the inhabitants has opened the sluices of an ex-
tensive and lucrative trade. The vessels, belonging
* The family name of this person, so prominent in Welsh
liistorv, was Vichan ; and he was styled Glyndwr, from his
possessions in the vale of the Dee fDwrdwy). By his mother's
side he was allied to the North-Wallian princes. The period
of his birth, concerning which so many strange stories have
been related, was the middle of the 14lh century. Endued
with great military genius, and a spirit impatient ot controul,
he was prepared by nature for scenes of difficulty and danger.
In the reign of Richard II. he was a favourite at the English
court ; and after his dethronement he retired to his patrimonial
estate, in a mood that required not the accumulation of insult
and injury which soon followed to produce the direst effects.
Some of his lands were seized by Lord Grey, and the king, to
alienate the remainder, had already set up a plea of forfeiture,
when theCambrian baron, exasperated beyond measure, placed
himself at the head of his countrymen, with the specious plea
of redressing their wrongs, but in reality to revenge his own.
He seized upon the lands and person of Lord Grey ; and, on
to the port, which are about one hundred, export
the manufactures and other produce of the district,
webs and flannels, sometimes to the value of it),000/.
in one year, oats, barley, butter, cheese, oak-bark,
timber, and other articles, and return with coal,
culm, colonial produce, and other nrcessaries for
the consumption of the interior. The walks on
the beach, and in the neighbourhood, convey, to a
sentimental mind, the most rapturous ideas, which
the sublime and the beautiful nre capable of in-
spiring. All the rare objects which constitute the
picturesque in a landscape are here assembled ;
the mighty ocean, the wildnt-ss of Alpine scenery,
and the obscurity of ancient woods, contrasted with
the bustle of a town and the calm picture of culti-
vated nature. — A few years since were visible the
remains of an antique tower, in which Henry VII.
concealed himself, previously to his attempt on the
kingdom ; but now every vestige has disappeared.
CORWI:N.] — Built on a vast rock of the Berwyn
hills, and approached by a handsome bridge over
the Dee, is t!?e small town of Corwyn, often the
resort of anglers for the amusement of taking trout,
grayling, and salmon, The church, which is a neat
and uniform structure, occupies a romantic site
beneath a cliff ; and has, on its north side, a cross,
called by the vulgar, the sword of Glyndwr, the
shaft of which is let into a flat stone, resting on
four supporters. On this side of the sacred edifice,
also, is 'a neat structure, consisting of six dwel-
lings, the endowed residence of six widows of
clergymen, founded in 1750, by the will of William
Eyton, Esq. of Pliis Warren, in Shropshire. — In
front of Corwen, is a British post, called Caer
Drewyn, of a circular figure, and occupying the
broad summit of a precipitous hill. This is sup-
posed to have been occupied by Owen Gwynedd,
during his warfare with Henry II. who was en-
camped on the other side of the vale. It was like-
wise the retreat, in after times, of the renowned
Glyndwr, whose memory is still revered in this
neighbourhood, long the scene of his exploits, and
his hospitality.*
MOWDDWY.] — The small market-town of
Dirias
the 20th of September, 1400, caused himself to be publicly
proclaimed, Prince ot North Wales. The insurrection was
general ; the first attempt of the King to suppress it was abor-
tive; and, flushed w ith this advantage, Glyndwr overran South
Wales. For five years he went on from victory to victory ;
every success augmenting the numlx-r of his partisans; till,
in 1405, the English troops, led on by Henry, afterwards the
renowned conqueror of 1- ranee, proved victorious; and the
Welsh hero, accompanied by a few trusly friends, retired to
the mountain-fastnesses of his unhappy country. Numerous
were the vicissitudes of his fortune. At the end of 1405, we
find him again at the head of a powerful army, with succours
from France. Again he was defeated ; ever making good his
retreat to the inaccessible parts of his beloved Wales. Yet
was his spirit not broken. Not to be behind the King in an
ostentatious display of regal power, he granted a pardon to one
John ap Howel, on the seal of which was his portrait, seated in
a chair of state, bearing a sceptre in his right hand, and in his
left
WALES.
03*
Dinas Mowddwy, situated nine miles from Dol-
ge!!en, at the confluence of the Ccrris nnd tlie
Dovey, does not exhibit, in its houses, a better
appearance than the villages of the country. Tlio
church alone displays respectability of architecture ;
ami the bridge, built over the Dovey, by iVir. Myt-
toti, to whom much of the place belonged. But
the town was anciently of considerable importance,
having been fortified, and the residence of a chief-
tain. It even still retains (lie insignia of privileges
of which it -once enjoyed all the substantial advan-
tages. The corporation consists of a mayor, alder-
men, recorder, and several burgesses ; the first of
whom possesses the authority to try criminals,
though he does not exercise it. The ensigns of
municipal authority are the maces, and standard
measures, the stocks, the whipping post, and the
great fetter, which are held in lerrorem over the
heads of offenders.
DoLQBLLEir.] — The market-town of Dolgellcn,
209 miles from London, though small, is (lie place .
where the summer assizes are held ; and is, in other '
respects, one oi' the most important in the county.
The sitCj which is among lofty mountains, between
the rivers Arran and Wnion, occasioned the follow-
ing1 enigmatical description, by Fuller : —
The walls thereof are three miles high,
Men go into it over the water;
But go out of it under the water.
Thestec()le thereof doth grow within ;
There are more alehouses than houses.*
The third particular is explained by a wooden
trough, conducting an overshot mill-stream over
the road ; the fourth, by the bell being hung in a
yew tree ; and the last, by the tenements being
divided, during the fair, each into two or more tip-
pling houses. Dolgellen is still considerable for its
trade in webs, or coarse cloths, and flannels ; and
the scenery around renders it a most desirable re-
sidence.— Nannau, the seat of Sir R. W. Vaughan,
Bart, is a modern mansion, of elegant yet substan-
tial form, surrounded by a park, abounding with
deer and timber.
FESTINIOG.] — Four miles, eastward, from the
noted boundary of Carnarvonshire and Merioneth-
shire, the Pont Aber-glas Llyn, lies the romantic
village of Festiniog, in a vale which has not un-
aptly been compared to the renowned Tempd. Lofty
mountains, and aged woods, are its natural boun-
daries ; and it is watered by a rivulet, which mean-
ders through meadows and fields in the highest state
of cultivation. At one end is a large stone, called
Maen Twrog, from which the vale also had its name
(Maentwrog) ; on the stream are two remarkable
left the globe. Fifteen years Hid he maintain successfully his
predatory warfare; always holding the neighbouring counties
in terror; and always secure in his natural fortresses, (ill his
death, in about 1415, delivered Henry from one of the most
powerful of his domestic enemies. The place of his interment
is unknown.
cataracts, and from the middle of the torrent rises a
columnar rock, called Hugh Lloyd's pulpit : the
place, say the vulgar, where n magician of that
name performed his midnight incantations. De-
scription fails to convey on idea of the beauties of
this place. " With the woman one loves, with tb«
friend of one's heart, and a good study of books,"
says Lord Lyttleton, " one might pass an age in this
vale, and think it n day." — Tnn y Bwleh Hall, situ-
ated on the declivity of a wooded mountain, is the
seat of Mr. Oakley, whose efforts for the improve-
ment of agriculture are so conspicuous around.
HAHLECH.] — llarlecb, a small and poor place, 229
miles from London, though the'county town, is re-
markable for nothing but its castle. This, from
several vestiges, has been supposed a post of the
Romans. It was certainly fortified by the Britons j
and, in 877, Collwyn ap Tangno resided in a square
tower, the remains of which are still apparent. It
was built, says the British annalist, about 350. The
present structure was erected by Edward I. In
1401, it was seized by Ulytulwr ; but was retaken
by an English army. Margaret of Anjou sought its
protection in her adversity ; and in the reign of
Edward IV. it was the last fortress which held out
for the Lancastrian cause. It was then defended -by
Dafydd ap Javan ap Minion, distinguished for his
great valour, and his uncommon stature. After a
successful resistance of nine years, lie returned a
truly Spartan answer to a summons to surrender
from the English general, Sir Richard Herbert:
" I held a tower in France, till ail the old women in
Wales heard of it ; and now the old women of France
shall hear how 1 defended the Welsh castle." Never-
theless, subdued by famine, he at last surrendered ;
and received his pardon. During the fatal wars of
Charles I. it was ably defended by Sir Hugh Pen-
nant; but, in consequence of desertions, it twice fell
into the hands of tiie Parliamentarians. Situated
on a lofty, perpendicular rock, overhanging the sca>
and defended on the land side by a wide ami deep
loss ; its ligure is quadrangular, strengthened at
the corners liy circular towers. It is, however, fast
going to decay ; and will soon become, like the
power to which it owed its existence, an {indistin-
guishable ruin.— Towards the end of the 17th cen-
tury, a torques, which is a wreathed bar of gold,
flexible and elastic:, used as a baldric, was discovered
in a garden, near Hailech; and was regarded, at
that time, as an indisputable evidence of Roman
habitation. But it was rather a monument of British
valour ; for it was only to their allies, and not to
their own soldiers, that the Romans gave such orna-
ments, in reward of military conduct. In 10'2i, a
* Similar to this, is the popular description of Shafteshury,
in Dorsetshire : — A place where the church stands higher tlua
the steeple, where there is more ale than water, and mom
wh—s llian women. The last item is explained by the early
devotion of the ladies to the Cyprian goddess : they are wh — $
before they are women.
phenomenon
GoG
WALES.
phenomenon occurred at Harlech, which excited ;
no inconsiderable degree of wonder. A ruephitic j
vapour (Indrogen gas) rose from the sea, and i
continued during eight months to devastate the j
neighbourhood, setting 6 re to hay-ricks, and in-
iecting the herbage. It was conjectured, and, appa-
rently, not without some shew of reason, that it pro- i
ceeded from the putrefaction of great numbers of i
marine animals. — The neighbourhood of Harlech
abounds with monumental remains, and vestiges of i
fortification. On the ascent of a precipitous hill, j
and on the summit, are several circular and oval
ranges of upright stones : the former concentric ;
and over the whole face of the country are scattered
carnedds, heaps of loose stones, often covered with
Yegetation. Cwiu Bychan, a narrow grassy dell,
not more than a mile in length, opening with a
small pool, or lake, and surrounded by inaccessible
eraggs, is the property of a family of Llwyds, de-
scended from Cynfyn, Prince of North Wales and
ljowys-land ; who boast of having possessed it for
nearly eight centuries. The mansion is a good
specimen of the seats of the ancient Welsh gentry ;
the furniture is rude ; and the mode of living is in
strict keeping with other circumstances. The pass,
with QaAoSDnes^rdudwy. (the door of Ardudwy)
•was anciently fortified ; but the spectator of the
rugged scene would not suppose defence necessary,
other than that which is afforded by rushing torrents,
impending cliffs, and a single causeway, wide enough
for a horse-path ; often cut in steps, and often so
slippery from distilling waters as to threaten de-
struction at every advance. Two small Llynt (lakes)
between this pass andCors y gedol, abound with char
and trout of a deformed figure ; and not far distant
are numerous druidical remains : viz. two circles of
loose stones; two carnedds of prodigious size; and
a large cromlech, composed of seven stones, of which
live are uprights. Another carnedd supports a still
larger cromlech, the standards of which are not less
than ten or twelve 'feet in height; and around are
scattered khl-vaen, or stone chests, and upright de-
tached stones. — Ciai^ ij ddinas is a conical hill, the
summit of which, environed by a vast rampart of
loose stones, is generally supposed to have been an
ancient British post ; and on another elevated site,
at a small distance, is an intrenched camp, with an
advanced out- work. — Cars y Gedol, an ancient seat
of the Vaughans, is now the property of Sir. T.
Mostyn, Bart, situated on high land, it affords a
good view of the perilous coast ; and it is surrounded
by timber, the tops of which, stunted by the saline
gales, from the ocean, wear the appearance ot'having
been shorn.
LI.ANELLTVD.] — In the parish of Llanelltyd, and
at a short distance from the town of Dolgellen, is
situated the abbey, called y Fanner by the Welsh,
and by the English Cyramer, founded, in 1198, by
two princes, sons of Cynan and Howel. This edi-
fice, being situated near the scene of a desperate
conflict, between the English and Llewelyn ap Jor-
werth, and the inmates having given umbrage to the
former by their good wishes for their countrymen,
was nearly destroyed, about thirty years after its
foundation ; but was redeemed from total demoli-
tion, by a fine of 300 marks. The remains consist
of part of the church, exhibiting three lancet win-
dows, the large refectory, and part of the above
lodge. In the neighbourhood are several cataracts
which well deserve the attention of the traveller ;
both for their own beauty, and for the numerous
specimens of the works of nature collected around
them.
LLANVAWR.] — At nine miles from Corwen, is the
village of .Llanvawr, formerly of considerable im-
portance, and now remarkable as the supposed burial
place of Llywarck Ken, a Cambrian prince, Lard,
and warrior of the 7th century, whose valour, in op-
posing the encroachments of the Saxons and Irish,
is honourably mentioned in Welsh history.
MALLWYD.] — At the junction of three abrupt
mountains is Mallwyd, a small village distinguished
for its church, near which are several yew trees, of
great size. The scenery is eminently beautiful ; and
a cataract at Pont Fallwyd, with its appendages, is
peculiarly fine.
TALYLLYN, CADER IDRIS, &c.] — Cader Idris, the
majestic father of the Merionethshire mountains,
traditionally said to have had a fortress on its sum-
mit, belonging to Idris, an ancient British prince,
rises proudly from the margin of the beautiful lake
of Talyllyn. " A small lake," observes an intelli-
gent tourist, " called Llyn y gader, lies about a mile
and a half on the high road to Towyn, which having
arrived at, we quitted the road, and began our ascent
at the first step of this lofty mountain. When we had
surmounted the exterior ridge, we descended a little
to a deep clear lake, which is kept constantly full by
the numerous tributary torrents that fall down the
surrounding rocks ; hence we climbed a second and
still higher chain up a steep but not difficult track,
over numerous fragments of rock detached from the
higher parts : we now came to a second and more
elevated lake, clear as glass, arid over-looked by
steep cliff's in such a manner as to resemble the crater
of a volcano, of which a most accurate representation
is to be seen in Wilson's excellent view of Cader
Idris. Some travellers have mentioned the finding;
lava and other volcanic productions here ; upon a
strict examination, however, we were unable to dis-
cover any thing of the kind, nor did the water of the
lake appear to differ in any respect from the purest
rock water, though it was tried repeatedly with the
most delicate chemical tests. A clear, loud, and
distant echo, repeats every shock that is made near
the lake. We now began our last and most difficult
ascent up the summit of Cader Idris itself, which,
when we had surmounted, we came to a small plain
with two rocky heads of nearly equal heights, one
looking to the north, and the other to the south : we
made choice of that which appeared to us the most
elevated, and seated ourselves on its highest pinna^
cle,
WALES.
057
cle, to rest after a laborious ascent of three hours.
We were now high above all the eminences within
this vast expanse, and as the clouds gradually clear-
ed away, caught some grand views of the surround-
ing country. The huge rocks which we before looked
up to with astonishment, were far below a,tour feet,
and many a small lake appeared in the vallies between
them ; to the north, Snowdon with its dependencies
shut up the scene ; on the west we saw the whole
curve of the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a vast
distance by the Carnarvon mountains, and nearer,
dashing its white breakers against the rocky coasts
of Merioneth, the southern horizon was bounded by
Plinlimmon, and at the east the eye glanced over
the lake of Bala, the two Arennig mountains, the
two Arrans, the long chain of the Ferwyn moun-
tains, to the Breiddin hills on the confines of Shrop-
shire; and dimly, in the distant horizon, was beheld
the Wreakin, rising alone from the plain of Salop.
Having at last satisfied our curiosity, and being
thoroughly chilled by the keen air of these elevated
regions, we began to descend down the side opposite
to that which we had come up. The first stage led
us to another mountain lake, whose cold clear waters
discharge their superabundance in a full stream down
the side of the mountain ; all these waters abound
with trout ; and in some is found the gwyniad, a fish
particular to rocky alpine lakes ; following the course
of the stream, we came on the edge of the craggy
cliffs that overlook Talyllyn lake ; a long and diffi-
cult descent conducted us at last on the borders of
Talyllyn, where we entered the Dolgelle road. —
The mountain of Cader Idris, in height the second
in all Wales, rises on the seashore, close upon the
northern side of the testuary of the small river Dis-
ynwy: about a mile above Towyn, it proceeds with
almost a constant ascent, first northward for about
three miles, then for ten miles farther runs E. N. E.
giving out from its summit a branch nearly three
miles long, in a south-westerly direction, parallel to
the main ridge. It is very steep and craggy on
every side; but the southern descent, especially to
the border of Talyllyn lake, is the most precipitous,
being nearly perpendicular. Its breadth bears but
a small proportion to its length ; a line passing
along its base and intersecting the summit would
scarcely equal four miles and a half; and in the other
parts it is a mere ridge, whose base hardly ever
exceeds one mile in breadth. The peak is said to
be 2850 feet above Dolgelle. Cader Idris is the
beginning of a chain of primitive mountains, ex-
tending in a N. N. easterly direction, and including
the Arrans and the Arennigs." — The vale of Ta-
lyllyn consists of rich meadows, through which
meanders a fine rivulet, issuing from the lake, that
soon has its confluence with the ocean. The valley
is flanked by lofty mountains, adorned with verdant
* St. Cadvan was one among several missionaries, who emi-
gtated from Gaul, about the beginning of the 6th century ;
and whose chapel, at the north east end of the church-yard,
was standing so late as 1620. There are more churches, how-
VOL, iv. — NO. 188.
and sylvan clothing. The lake, often nearly filling
the valley, contracts gradually into a stream, rush-
ing under a bridge of one arch, through a narrow
defile, on one side of which stands the church, and
on the other cottages, intermingled with trees.
TOW.YH.] — In a flat called Towyn Meireonydd,
watered by the Dysynvvy, which falls into the sea a
few miles to the north of Llanfihangel y Pennant,
rises an immense rock with a very contracted top.
Here once stood a castle of great strength ; con-
jectured, by Pennant, to have been the castle B,;re,
committed to the custody of Robert Fitzwalter, who
obtained a grant, at the same time, for hunting all
kinds of animals, ferae nature, in this county, by Ed-
ward I. — In this flat, consisting principally of peafc
earth, stands the small town of Towyn, or Tywyn,
the buildings of which are chiefly of a coarse-grained
schistose stone. The place has a respectable appear-
ance, and is finely situated'; exhibiting, in the back
ground, ranges of lofty and varied mountains, which
form a shelter from ungenial blasts ; and in front, a
bold and commanding view of the ocean : having a
fine sandy beach, it is much frequented for sea-
bathing. The church contains several monuments ;
and in the cemetery are two rude shaped vertical
columns, one supposed to have been erected in
memory of a warrior ; the other, seven feet in height,
ornamented with a cross, and bearing an inscription,
in illegible characters. This, called St Cadvan's
stone, is traditionally said to have been erected to
the memory of that saint, to which the church is
dedicated *
TRAWSFYNNYDD.] — This is a little village, walled
in by lofty mountains, and almost secluded from
civilized society. The parish, which is extensive,
consists of a woodless, sterile tract ; notwithstand-
ing which, it furnishes several objects of attention
to the antiquary. Across a common, passes the
.Llwyber Helen, or causeway of Helen ; part of a
road, said to have been constructed by the order of
Helena, wife to the Roman emperor Maximus. It
is entirely covered with turf, and to be distinguished
only by its elevation. On digging, the layers of
stones are visible in the whole of its course to the
breadth of eight yards. It is evidently a work of
the Romans. — In a field, at some distance, is a large
upright stone, denominated Llech Iilris, connected,
by tradition, with the account of the giant Idris,
and other countries in the North. — " On a mountain
called Mikneint," says a modern tourist, " near
Rhyd ar Helen, are some remarkable stone monu-
ments, called Bedhau Gwyr Ardudwy, i. e. the
graves of the men of Ardudwy. They are at least
thirty in number ; and each grave is described to be
two yards long ; and to be distinguished by four
pillars, one at each corner fcf a grave. The tradition
is, that these are sepulchral monuments of some per •
ever, than this, denominated after his name; and it appear;
that he finally retired to Ynis Enlli, or Bardsey island ; where
he was for a time abbot.
8 T> • sons
658
WALES.
sons of note slain here, in the battle fought between
the men of DyfFryn Ardudwy, and some of Den-
bighshire.— Several seems scarcely questionable; but
when, or by what persons, &c. is wholly uncertain.
One of the next neighbours informs me, that he saw,
amongst other stones brought hence to mend the
walls of Festiniog church-yard, one with an in-
scription ; but at present there remains no account
of it." — Several stone circles are in the vicinity of
these graves, the largest about fii'ty-two feet in dia-
meter, and a vast carnedd with two upright stones,
with several smaller circles ; the whole of which
appears to have been surrounded by one of much
larger diameter. — In the vicinity of Rluw-goch is a
small fort, singularly situated,, on a circular isolated
rock, resembling a keep, or artificial mount, be-,
tvveen the hills, and evidently intended to guard the
pass, opening through them into the charopaigne
country. In the adjacent enclosed country is a large
Roman encampment, commanding a number of
passes, defended by the minor parts of this moun-
tainous tract ; evidently a camp of contiguous obser-
vation. Near this place, in a lake called Llyn Raith-
lyn, is a singular variety of perch ; the back quite
hunched, and the lower part of the back bone, next
to the tail, strangely distorted : in colour, and other
respects, it resembles the common kind, which are
equally numerous in this lake.
MONTGOMERYSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.] — This county, called by
the Welch Sir Ire Faldwyn, or the shire of Baldwin,
after the. name of a lieutenant of the marches, is
bounded on the north by Denbighshire; on the cast
and north-east by Shropshire ; oh the south-east by
Radnorshire; on the south-west by Cardiganshire ;
and on the west by Merionethshire. It is in length,
from north to south, about thirty-five miles ; and in
breadth, from east to west, thirty miles. According
to the latest official admeasurement, it contains
628,480 acres ; about 60 or 70 thousand of which
are arable, and about 180 or 190 thousand pasture.
This district obtained its present name from Roger
de Montgomery, the founder of the castle, when
it was formed into a distinct county in the reign of
Henry VIII. It was anciently comprehended in
the territory occupied by the Ordovices ; and, on
the prevalence of the Roman arms, it was, with the
other parts of the island west of the Severn, com-
prised in the province of Britannia Secunda. Its
present division is into the nine hundreds of Cawrsc,
Lieylhur, Llanl'y llin, Llanidloes, Muchynlleth, Math-
rafel, Montgomery, Newtown, and Pool, comprising
49 parishes and 9 parts of parishes ; having 12 petty
sessions, and 28 acting county magistrates. For
ecclesiastical jurisdiction, it is distributed into three
portions ; part lying in the diocese of Bangor, part
in St. Asaph, and part in Hereford, and all included
jn the province of Canterbury.
Numerous remains point out the progress of the
Romans, and several settlements evince that the
invaders made a considerable stay in this part of the
island. — After the arrival of the Saxons, many san-
guinary scenes were enacted here. Subsequently
to a signal defeat of Brockevel Yscithroe, Prince
of Powys, about the close of the 6th century, the
borders afforded a continual display of rapine and
plunder ; the Mercians and Powysians alternately
making the most terrible inroads into each other's
dominions, till the time of Offa. That prince drove
the sovereigns of Powysland into the interior ; where
they fixed their residence at Mathraval, in the beau-
tiful vale of Meivod. Thus was the Powysian ter-
ritory greatly curtailed. The Danes, after their
arrival, made various incursions into this and other
parts of Wales, and the kingdom of Powys and
the fine territory which it embraced, became an early
prey of the hungry Norman lords who followed the
fate of William the Conqueror. — The present hono-
rial distinctions of this district are confined to two
families : Powys Castle gives the title of Earl to
that of Clive ; and Montgomery to that of Herbert.
In consequence of the great irregularity of soil
and surface, there is a considerable difference iu the
climate of this county. The midland, western, and
south-western parts, are unfavourable to the growth
of corn ; both from the ungenial nature of the soil,
and the elevated exposure ; the narrow vallies are
more friendly to vegetation, and highly productive,
both in corn and grass ; but the finest arable land
lies on the eastern side of the county, bordering on
Shropshire ; where agriculture has of late years
received considerable improvement. The air of the
hills is bleak ; that of the confined vallies is fre-
quently boisterous, but highly salubrious. The
westerly winds have been observed to blow, on the
average, nine months in the year, and the easterly
to prevail the remaining three. The strongest winds
are those, which blow from the south-west, or the
north-west. — The greater part of the county assumes
a mountainous characteristic, and considerable por-
tions exhibit strong features of forbidding sterility.
— -Aline, commencing at Plinlimmon, on the south-
eastern part of the district, runs in a north-westerly
direction, between Llanbrynmair, and Carno, to
Llyn Gwyddior lake ; thence to Bwlch y Groes,
where, near Aran Fowddwy, it enters the adjacent
county, through which it continues in nearly the
same line, till it terminates in the valley of Festi-
niog. The Freiddin, or Bridden hills, form a noble
group on the eastern side of the county. On the
south, the Biga mountains, lying on the north side
of the valley, through which the Severn flows, and
a collateral branch of the Plinlimmon ridge, form
a line of high table land several miles in extent. —
The main streams, which fall on the western side of
the ridge, are the Traeth-bach river, flowing through
the valley of Festiniog; the Maw, watering the low-
lands near Dolgellen ; and the Dovey, passing the
vale of Machynleth. On the western side of this
geological spine, are found the sources of the Wye,
Severn,
WALES.
659
Severn, Vyruwy, Tanat, Rhaiadr, Ceiriog, and Dee.
The Severn, soon after it quits its source, receives
the waters of the assistant rivers, Bacho, Glusslyn,
and Grayling ; which also rise on the side of Plin-
limmon. and, becoming continent, concur with the
larger stream of the Hat'ren, to form the original Se-
vern. A canal, forming a branch of the Ellesmere,
passes through a portion of this county. — The soil
and substrata vary, but not to so great an extent as
in some of the adjacent counties ; the substance of the.
•vales being chiefly of an argillaceous, and the moun-
tains of a schistose nature. — Limestone strata are
rarely found in this district. Peat is not so plenti-
ful in this, as in the adjacent county of Merioneth.
Lead ore, of various qualities and quantities, has
been discovered in many parts of this district. —
Coal is very scarce ; but in an angle of the county,
at Coedwae on the borders of Salop, a few pits
have been opened, capable of producing about
twelve tons per day. — This county, still the best
wooded of any in North Wales, was once so co-
vered with trees, that in the time of Henry III.
quantities were ordered to be cut down, to prevent
ambush, and destroy the cover which they afforded.
Within a century, the \voods were so abundant,
that they supplied the greater part of the inhabi-
tants with fuel. Much of it, about ninety years
ago, found its way to the dock-yards ; and since
the year 1750, this county has contributed largely
towards the furtherance both of naval and commer-
cial architecture. The size and quality of the oak
of this county may, in a degree, be estimated from
the fall at Vaenor Park, in 1796. Among those
felled, one was 6$ inches in circumference, at
the height of 73 feet. Another measured 687 cubic
feet, and was valued at two shillings per foot, ex-
clusive of the bark. A third contained in the whole
525 feet. The park produced a large number also,
measuring from 400 to 450 feet each. The landed
proprietors have in general, of late years, displayed
much greater assiduity in clearing their estates of
timber, than in endeavouring to repair the loss by
suecessional planting. The late Bell Lloyd, Esq.
of Bodfach, however, had plantations in the neigh-
bourhood covering above sixty-one acres of land,
and comprising about 171,000 firs, pines, pine-
asters, larch, beech, &c. ; and upwards of 5000 oaks.
He planted also about 33, 000 in the parishes of Ker-
ry and Llandyssul ; making bis Montgomeryshire
plantations to consist of 204,000. His son and suc-
cessor, Sir Kdward Price Lloyd, pursues the same
spirited method of enriching the barren waste, and
improving the face of the country. Within the List
fifteen or twenty y,pars many thousands of forest
trees have also been planted in different parts, for
which gold medals have been received from the
Society of Arts. The state of husbandry in this
district is extremely various, owing to the different
nature of the soils, the prejudices of ignorant far-
-mers, or the enlightened views of liberal agricul-
turists. Many farmers adhere strictly to the old
routine of oats, wheat, barley, &c. ad infmitum ;
till, for want of covering and fertilizing intervening
crops, the land naturally lays itself down ; or is re-
duced to such an exhausted state, as only to pro-
duce a scanty crop of ordinary grasses, with a
plentiful intermixture of weeds. Peas, vetches,
turnips, buckwheat, clover, and other green me-
liorating crops, have been long introduced, though
not generally adopted. In the eastern part of the
county hemp is much grown. The cattle of Mont-
gomeryshire breed are termed the finch -backed kind,
short in the leg, deep in the carcass, and of a
brindled colour. A sort originally from Devon-
shire, is characterized by long legs, a light brown
uniform colour, with smoky or dun faces. These
are better adapted for the plough, than the native
breed. — The Hereford kind, distinguished by their
white faces, have recently become very general in
the eastern part of the county. — Of sheep there are
two kinds ; the one peculiar to the Kerry hills, and
supposed the only kind, or variety, in North Wales,
that produces perfect wool. They are wanting in
symmetry ; but, by proper attention, in crossing,
&c., this breed might be worthy of universal adop-
tion throughout the principality. A second kind is
a black-faced, finc-woolled sheep, bred on a moun-
tainous ridge, extending from the vicinity of Welsh
Pool, in a southerly direction, called the Long
Mountain. There is a breed of horses peculiar to
the hilly parts of this county, and that of Merioneth.
They are a kind of small ponies denominated mer-
lyns. They range at large over the mountains
during the summer and winter, and are never
brought down from the parts, where they were
reared, until they are three years old. They are
then driven from the hills to fairs, like flocks of wild
sheep. Many of these are used within their native
district, and though they fetch but a small price,
their labour, as beasts of burthen, has been found
very beneficial. — A hardy, active, and rather hand-
some breed, larger than these, appears to have been
a cross between the merlyn and the English horse.
The vales in this county have, for centuries, been
noted for a peculiarly fine breed, attributed to some
blood horses, introduced from Spain, by Robert,
Earl of Shrewsbury. Considerable agricultural
improvements have been made in this county within
the space of a few years ; the greatest of which is
the enclosing of waste lands. The roads here are
far from being so good as in many other parts of
Wales, owing to, the want of proper materials for
tlieir construction and repair. The bridges are
numerous, and generally speaking are kept in good
repair, chiefly in tiie more cultivated parts of the
county : the bridges in the south and western dis-
tricts are principally constructed of wood,' and do
not receive so much attention. The flannel district
is principally confined to the south- west part of the
county, extending in length from Dolobran on the
north-east, to Llanydloes on the south-west, about
twenty-one miles; and in breadth, about nineteen
miles
WALES.
miles from Berhiew in the east, to Llanbrynraair
on the west. Formerly the whole was manufac-
tured by hand, by farmers and cottagers in their
own houses ; but of late the powerful agency of
water has been brought to their assistance ; and
about forty or fifty carding, and several spinning,
machines have been erected. There are also ma-
nufactories upon larger scales. Several at New-
town ; one near Berhiew ; one at Welsh Pool ; one
on the Dulas stream near Macbynlleth ; and ano-
ther at Dolobran, about six miles west of Welsh
•Pool, on a branch of the Vyrnwy.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
BODFACH.] — This mansion, beautifully situated
on the banks of the Cuin, was a seat of the late Bell
Lloyd, Esq. in right of Miss Price, the heiress of
the demesne. The house is good, and the grounds
were greatly improved by the late owner. Edward
Lloyd, Esq. his son, is the present proprietor.
BUTTINGTON.] — This place, in the neighbourhood
of Welsh Pool, is remarkable for having been the
scene of a sanguinary contest between the Saxons
and the Danes, at the close of the 9th century,
when Alfred obtained a signal victory over the pi-
rate, Hastings.
CAEII-SWS.] — This place, now only a small ham-
let on the Severn, about five miles west from New-
town, is supposed to have been a Reman station,
and a town of considerable extent. Two encamp-
ments are in the immediate vicinity : one is a small
sub-oval fortified post, by the side of the road, call-
ed Gwynfynydd. Not far from the river, in a field
adjoining Rhos Ddiarbed, or the marsh where no
quarter was given, is a large camp, of a peculiar
form, and fortified in a singular manner ; having
tit the south end a large conical mount, surrounded
by a deep fosse. In the lower part is an entrance-
way, which opens into a large rectangular camp,
about 600 feet long, and more than 300 broad. At
the opposite extremity is another entrance, and the
whole is encompassed by a fosse and vallum.
Amongst the Roman bricks which have been found
here, was one inscribed thus: C.I. C.I. P. B.
which some have read, though unsatisfactorily,
•" Caius Julius Caesar imperator." By the side of
•Gwynfynydd, are the remains of the Roman road,
Sarn Swsan, running in a direction from Caer-sws
to Meifod. The country beyond this village is a
Jand of sheep-walks. The hills are uncultivated,
and uninclosed ; and the sheep, like those of Spain,
are driven to them from distant parts to depasture
the summer herbage. The mountains of Carno, in
this district, are celebrated for the most sanguinary
battle that is recorded in the Welsh annals. It was
fought in the year 1077, between the forces under
Gryffydd ap Cynan, the legal heir to the throne of
North Wales ; joined by those of Rhys ap Tewdwr,
Prince of South Wales ; and the powerful army
assembled by Trahaern ap Caradoc, tbe reigning
monarch. Trahaern was killed, and the \ictor
Gryffydd was put in possession of the crown of his
ancestors.
GARTHBEIBIO.] — This little village, which lies be-
tween the rivers Twrch and Banwy, has its church
dedicated to Tydecho, a saint who lived at the close
of the 5th and commencement of the 6th century.
Adjoining the church is a well, constructed so as to
form a cold bath, the water of which is said to be
serviceable in rheumatic complaints. — Near this vil-
lage, whilst the bridge was erecting for carrying a
new road over the river, a large kist-vaen, or stone
chest, was found, containing two skeletons, and an
urn, with ashes and burnt bones : it was supposed
to have been of British origin.
GILSFIELD] — The village of Gilsfield, with- its
neat little church, constitutes a part of the delight-
ful scenery in the neighbourhood of Welsh Pool.
Here was situated the Abbey ot Ystrat Marcliell,
or Strata Marcella, founded for Cistercian monks
about the year 1170, by Owen Citeiliog, Prince of
Powys. Edward III. removed the Welsh monks,
and distributed them amongst different English
abbeys ; whilst he placed English monks here, and
made the monastery subordinate to that of Build-
was in Shropshire.
LLANDDINAM.] — Opposite to this village is a Bri-
tish port, called " Y Gaer Ft-chan," or the small
fortress, encompassed or defended by fosses, from
one to five, according to the nature of the situation.
A small lake in the neighbourhood retains the appel-
lation of Llyn yr Afange, or the Beaver's pool, from
having been in former times the haunt of these ani-
mals. In ancient times, the skin of the beaver
constituted one of the principal luxuries of dress.
An idea of its comparative value may be formed,
from the statement, that a beaver's skin was valued
at 120 pence, that of a martin at 24, and that of an
otter, ermine, wolf, or fox, at 12. — The road from
this village to the southward winds romantically
through a vale, which, as it converges, is bounded
by lofty hills, whose ridges and bases are beautifully
ornamented with hanging woods ; some of which
form a fine back ground to the remains of an ancient
mansion, the residence of the Llwyds, collateral
descendants from Tudor Trevor. The. river
meanders delightfully through the well-cultivated
valley.
LLANERFIL.] — Westward from the town of Llan-
fain, is Llanerfil, a parish comprising six townships.
In the church-yard is a well, famous for its medici-
nal virtues, and numerously attended by persons
from distant parts. The fountain is arched over,
and a channel has been formed to convey the waters
to the spot. On the Drum are three small moors, or
pools, viz. Llyn y grinwydden, about 240 feet in
diameter, which, according to report, is unfathom-
able. Llyn hir, is 900 feet in length, and nearly
150 in breadth. The water in the upper part is so
skinned over with the buoyant slough, brought down
by the floods, that sheep can walk upon it. The
other
WALES.
(Kil
other, Llyn y Bug-ail is remarkable only for pro-
ducing quantities of excellent eels. Various fortified
posts, encampments, tumuli, &c. are traced in an
oblong form, about one hundred yards in length,
having the entrance to the west, where the ascent
is easiest ; and on another hill, near the village, is
Garddan, the diminutive of Garth, a small enclosed
fort. This is of a circular shape, comprising an
area about seventy feet in diametef. It is supposed
these were British posts, and it is observable, that
the entrances into both these strong holds, are broad,
and left open on the most accessible side^ of the
forts ; being probably so contrived to give admission
for the scythed chariots. In the neighbourhood, is
a very ol(l mansion, called Neuaeld Wen, which
appears to have been erected upon the site of one
still more ancient ; for tradition states that its former
appellation was Llys VVgan, or the spacious palace.
This was the residence of Meredydd ap Cynan, bro-
ther of Gryffydd ap Cynan, Prince of North Wales.
— One mile and a half from Llanerfyl, is the only
inn on the road between Llanfair and Mallwyd ;
and miserable indeed is the accommodation which
it affords. A celebrated tumulus, 240 feet in cir-
cumference, is in an adjoining field.
LLANFAIR.] — The neat little market-town of Llan-
fair, or Llanvair, on the rising ridge of a steep hill,
near the banks of the wide-flowing Vyrnwy, which
abounds with a variety offish. The inhabitants are
peculiarly dexterous in the use of the harpoon, or
spear, two kinds of which are in use. The first con-
sists of a narrow piece of steel, about a foot in length,
armed with a barb at the extremity. This is placed
in a short handle, having a line attached to the end,
for the purpose, after it is darted, of drawing it
back to the spearman. The second sort has a longer
handle, from six to eight feet ; to which is affixed,
at the lower extremity, three broad flat pieces of well-
tempered steel, parallel to each other, and united
by a ferrel on the end of the stuff; similar to the
broad forks made use of by gardeners for getting
up potatoes, with the addition of barbs at the ends.
The sport is sometimes successfully followed by
torch-light, as well as by day-light. — About four
miles distant from Llanfair, is Castell Caer-eineon,
said to have been a Roman fortress. — Three miles
further is the pleasing village of Bcrhiew, where
the handsome small church and parsonage, the neat
appearance of the white cottages,' with the luxuri-
ance of highly cultivated farms, and the decent
appearance of all descriptions of inhabitants, furnish
the idea of plenty and content.
LI.AISYDI.OES.] — This town is pleasantly situated
near jhe right bank of the Severn, 13 miles from
Newton, and 190 from London. The entrance,
over along wooden bridge, erected iu 1741, which
crosses the Severn, is not calculated to prepossess
the traveller in favour of the place. The streets,
forming right angles, indicate a Roman origin. The
situation is pleasant ; but there are few good houses,
and the greater number are built of timber frames,
VOL.. IV. — NO. 188.
and the intermediate spaces formed with laths, or
sticks, intertwined, with the interstices filled up with
mud. This, with the irregularity of their position,
gives an awkwardness to the appearance of the town.
The width of the streets also, is here an abominable
nuisance, from the custom which the inhabitants have
of curiously carved oak. The nave is separated
from the aisle by circular columns, surrounded by
round pillars terminating in capitals of palm leaves,
which support six pointed arches. The upper part's
are decorated with angelic, or cherubic figures, each
of which exhibits a shield, charged with different
coats of arms. These ornamental parts, according
to tradition, were brought from the abbey of C wmhir,
in Radnorshire. The market-house in the centre of
the town, is a mean, low building, constructed in a
similar manner to most of the dwelling houses. The-
inhabitants are chiefly employed in agriculture, or iu
manufacturing flannel. Several factories, furnished
with machinery, are in the vicinity. A coarse slate
abounds in the neighbouring hills, and a good build*
ing stone, composed of schistus, that appears to be
trapping into hornblende; notwithstanding which,
in many parts of the country, the ancient covering
for roofs is still pertinaciously adopted, viz. shingles,
or heart-of-oak split, and cut into the form of
slates ; a custom said to have been introduced by the
Saxons.
From this place, the route to the pride, and boast
of the county, Plinlimmon, is generally made.
LLANFYLI.IN.] — This market-town was first incor-
porated under a charter granted by tlie Prince of
Powys, in the time of Edward II. Amongst other
privileges, the burgesses were exempted from toll
throughout the prince's territories, and exonerated
from tliemn, gileam, hampsum, &c. &c. they were
invested \vilh the power of taking, imprisoning, and
trying thieves, and other malefactors ; and if they
escaped the hands of justice, of pursuing them for
one league round the town ; and any stranger re-
siding in the place, and paying scot and lot, for one
year, obtained its freedom. It is now governed by
two bailiffs, chosen annually, and who under it further
grant in the time of Charles II. are justices of the
peace, for the time being. — In the neighbourhood is
Llwydiarth Hall, a seat of Sir W. W. Wynne, Bart,
a very large old mansion, surrounded by a well-
wooded park. — Llangedvven Hall, another seat of
the same baronet, stands in the vale of Llanged-
vven.
LLANYMYNACH.]— This is a considerable village,.
of high antiquity, pleasantly situated on the bunks
of the Vyrnwy ; which is navigable, part of the year,
for barges from forty to fifty tons burthen, uito the •
Severn. — The name, signifying the village of miners,
points out its origin. In the north-west part of the
parish is an isolated hill, once abounding with cop-
per, lead, and other minerals, well deserving of
8 E notice.
002
WALES.
notice. It appears to have been wrought in the time
of the Romans.
MACHYNLLETH.] — At the conflux of the Dulas
•with the Dovcy, stands Machynlleth, a neat regular
well-built market-town, 30 miles from Montgomery,
and 200 from London. It is generally supposed to
have been a Roman station, the Maglona of the
Itinerary. Near Penal t, about two miles distant,
is a place, called Cefn Caer, or the ridge of the
city, where Roman coins have frequently been found,
and the remains of a circular fortification of consi-
derable extent were formerly visible. From the site
of this fort, a road, 30 feet wide, formed of pebbles
and larger stones, extended in a direct line through
the marshy meadows, for 600 feet, to the water-side.
Beyond the river the foundations of many houses
are yet discoverable. On a low mount stood a small
fort, supposed to have been erected with such bricks
as have been frequently found on the spot ; speci-
mens of which appear intermixed with the stone in
the walls of Penalt church. Near the main fort,
silver coins of Augustus and Tiberius have been
dug up ; yet the station appears to have been prin-
cipally occupied by troops, under the command of
a lieutenant, in the time of the Emperor Jlonorius.
The church is not remarkable, except for the custom
of whitewashing the outside. The Town Hall is
a plain, unadorned, good structure. The ancient
Senate House, now a stable, adjoining a butcher's
shop, has a spacious entrance door-way. Here, in
140-2, the rebtl chieftain, Owen Glyndwr, assembled
the estates of Wales, and held a parliament ; by
•which his title to the Principality was solemnly
acknowledged, and he formally underwent the
ceremony of coronation. — The inhabitants of the
town are chiefly employed in handicraft business, a
considerable tanning business being carried on here,
with the manufacture of flannel, webs, and Welsh
plains or cottons, a coarse sort of white thick cloth,
made in pieces of length from ninety to one hundred
and twenty yards. Near the village of Cemmes,
in this neighbourhood, stands Aberhiriaeth Hall, the
residence of Sir J. Dashwood King, Bart, erected
on an eminence amidst rich plantations.
MEIFOD.] — This place is supposed to have derived
its name from Meudwyfod, " the habitation of a
hermit," whence it has been inferred, that it was at
a remote period, the resilience of some recluse.
Most antiquaries have fixed here the station, Medi-
o/aniirn. Giraldas observes, that, in his time, (here
existed considerable remains of venerable,antiquity ;
and several foundation floors, causeways, &c. have
at different times been discovered. Camden men-
tions, also, a field, called Erw'r Porth, or the field
of the gate, where he concludes might have anci-
ently stood one of the portae, belonging to the old
city. This is a place of great ecclesiastical anti-
quity. The church, which stands in, a remarkably
large cemetery, comprising nine acres, is dedicated
to St. Tyssilio, a prince of Powys, who was the
strenuous supporter of the rites of the British
churches against the innovations of Austin, tlw
monk. In former times, it belonged to the abbey
of Ystrat Marchel ; when 3Ieifbd is said to have
been the arch-deaconry of all Powysland. It is
at present the mother church to Gilsfield, and Pool.
Here were interred the princes, and oilier great men
of Powys. — A little to the south-west of Meifod two
rivers, both named Vyrnwy, which rise in different
quarters, after having been divergent in their course,
form a junction. Both are large streams, and in
many places their waters are deep, and of a dark
hue. The land rises on each side after their union,
and on a rising bank of one stood Mathrafal, a palace
of the sovereigns of Powys, after they had been
deprived of their seat at Pengwern. The name of
this residence is at present preserved in a solitary
farm house ; and the site is clearly traceable near
it. When deserted by the Powysian princes, the
palace was possessed by Robert de Vipond, a potent
baron in the reign of King John ; and Powel states,
that it was rebuilt by that nobleman.
MONTGOMERY.] — Montgomery, the county town,
is 23 miles from Ludlow, and 109 from London.
It was originally called Tre Faldwyn, or Baldwyn's
Town, from Baldwyn, in the time of William the
Norman ; who, at the command of his master, erect-
ed here a fortress to further his designs against
the Welsh. Roger Montgomery, Earl of Arundel
and Shrewsbury, took the castle and town of Bald-
wyn, refortified it in his own right, and gave it the
new appellation of Montgomery. It was repeatedly
taken and retaken, demolished, rebuilt, and again
destroyed. On the reversal of the attainder of Roger
Mortimer, Earl of March, the castle appears to have
been in the possession of that nobleman at his de-
cease, in 1351 ; and also the hundred of Chirbury,
then reputed to comprise the castle and manor of
Montgomery. In consequence of the attainder being
removed, this, with his other property, was restored
to the family ; and it passed into the royal house of
York by the marriage of Anne, sister and sole heiress
of the last earl, whence it came into possession of
the Crown. In the reign of Charles 1. it was gar-
risoned for the royal cause by Lord Herbert ; who,
however, on the approach of the rebel army, de-
clared himself ready to espouse the opposite side ;
and by a treaty with Sir T. Myddleton, the troops
were permitted to enter the castle, and turn out the
royal garrison. A short time afterwards, the royal
forces, under Lord Byron, approached Montgomery,
and obliged the army under Sir T. Myddlelon to
make a precipitate retreat to Oswestry, leaving Lord
Herbert ill supplied, either with men, ammunition,
or provisions, to defend the castle. It was conse-
quently besieged by the royalists ; but Sir T. Myd-
dleton'-s army, having been reinforced, made a
countermarch to its relief. The royal army, de-
scending from the heights on which they had been
posted, commenced the attack ; and, at first, gained
considerable advantage ; but the Parliamentary
troops, actuated by despair, and stimulated by the
urgent
WALES.
003
urgent necessity of throwing succours info such nn
important post, rallied, made most vigorous efforts,
turned the fortune of the day, and, nl'ter a sangui-
nary conflict, obtained a complete and decisive vic-
tory. More than 500 were slain, and 1400 taken
prisoners ; while the loss on the side of the victors
was about 60 killed, and 100 wounded. The castle
Avas subsequently dismantled by order of the House
of Commons; but Lord Herbert received a compen-
sation for the injury his property had sustained nn
-this occasion. The remains of the castle consist of
a fragment of a tower at the south-west angle, with
a few low and shattered walls. The fortress had
been further defended by four deep fosses, cut out
of the solid rock, over which it is probable draw-
bridges had been thrown for security. Not far from
the castle, on a hill, is a stupendous fortified camp,
evidently an ancient British post. At the bottom of
the hill is a small fortification, supposed to be the
site of the castle originally erected by Baldwyn.
The town of Montgomery was once defended by a
wall, flanked with round and square towers, and the
entrances defended by four gates, few traces of
which are left. — This place was erected into a free
borough by Henry III. with various privileges and
immunities ; and it is governed by two bailiffs and
twelve capital burgesses, or comtnon-council-men.
It is a small, but neat place, built partly on the slope,
and partly on the summit of a hill, beneath the im-
pending shade of one of much greater elevation. —
The church, an elegant cruciform structure, con-
tains an ancient monument erected to the memory
of Richard Herbert, Esq. father of the celebrated
Lord Herbert of Chirbury, and Magdalene his wife.
Near the site of the castle stands the County Gaol,
a strong stone building. In the upper part is the
Guildhall, a handsome edifice, where the sessions
are held alternately with Pool. The town in general
is well built, the streets are clean, and the whole
presents an air of peculiar and inviting neatness.
Having neither trade nor thoroughfare, may account
for the diminutive size of this county town. It is
principally inhabited by persons of small independent
fortunes, who settle here for the purpose of economy
and retirement. From the hill, is a fine, extensive,
and rich view of the vale of Montgomery, finely
bounded in the expanse by the Salopian hills. From
an early period, the burgesses of Montgomery,
among their other privileges, numbered the right of
the gogingstool, cokestool, or cuckingstool ; an
instrument of justice, for the punishment of scolds,
strumpets, and other disorderly women, by ducking
them in water. By the Welsh it was called " V
gadair goch," or " the red chair," the use of which
is alluded to in the following lines : —
" Ye vixen dames, your neighbour's pest,
Unless your tongues in future rest,
Know thai with ull your faults, your fate
Is the red chair's degrading seat."
Five miles distant from this town is Mynydd digoll,
; or Long-mountain, on which was fought the last
decisive battle for the independence of Wales. —
Limore Park, a little distance from the town, is a
seat belonging to the Earl of Powjs. — The road
-from Montgomery to Newtown lies through a fine
cultivated country, abounding with delightful sce-
nery. The small hamlet of Abermule, at the con-
fluence of the Mule, is delightfully situated on the
banks of the river, surrounded by hills, and deco-
rated with luxuriant woods. — To the west of (lie
road are the remains of Dolforwyn Castle, a fortress
I on the summit of a high hilly ridge, exceedingly
f precipitous, and nearly encompassed by a wooded
dingle ; and at the bottom a small rivulet runs to
join the Severn. — Gregynnog, the seat of Charles
Hanbnry, Esq. is a good old family mansion, me-
morable for having been the residence of uncommon
hospitality, during the lifetime of its former owner,
Arthur Blayney, Esq. — Aberfechan, a good old
house near Dolforwyn, formerly a residence of the
Lloyd family, is now, by marriage, in possession of
Sir Gervase Clifton, Bart.
NEWTON.] — Newton, or Newtown, eight miles
from Montgomery, is a neat clean place ; but ra-
ther mean than handsome. There are, however,
many good houses, not built after the Welsh fa-
shion ; and, as a place of residence, it seems de-
sirable. The church is an ancient, though not re-
markable structure. An elegant screen, separating-
the chancel from the nave, is decorated with va-
rious devices. Over the communion table is a small
altar-piece containing a picture, said to have been
painted by Dyer, the poet. The font and screen
are said to have been brought from the abbey of
Cwmbir in Radnorshire. — Several woollen manufac-
tures are carried on in the town and its vicinity,
principally flannels. Newtown Hall, the seat of.
Sir John Pryse, stands in a fine park, which ex-
tends almost up to the town. The family derive
their descent from Elystan Glodrydd, one of the
five royal tribes. The late owner, Sir John Pryse,
a very eccentric character, married three wives :
the first two of which he kept after their demise in
an embalmed state, in his chamber, one on each
I side his bed ; but the third refused him the honour
| of her hand, till he had removed the defunct rivals.
About the time of the death of the third, Bridget
Bostock, of Cheshire, became notorious, by the pre-
tended miraculous powers which she possessed, and
the surprising cures she was said to have performed ;
healing all manner of (iiseases by means of faith,
prayer, and an embrocation of fasting spittle, ap-
plied to the impotent, or disordered subject. Among
her credulous applicants was Sir John, who wrote
to her, requesting the favour, that she would con-
descend to pay him a visit at Newtown Hall, for
the purpose of exerting her extraordinary endow*
ments in the restoration to life of his third and fa-
vourite wife ! It is scarcely necessary to add, that
his hopes and expectations were not gratified.
POOL.] — Pool, or Welsh Pool, so denominated to
dUting'tVisn
661
WALES.
distinguish it from a town of the same name in
Dorsetshire, is nine miles from Montgomery, anil
177 from London. It is supposed to have derived
its appellation from a deep pool on the waste, now
within the enclosure of Powys Park, denominated,
from its dark appearance, Llymly Pool. By the
Tiilgar, this pool was considered unfathomable.
Many attempts have been made to ascertain the
actual depth ; but it is generally supposed, from
the variations in the results, that an intercommuni-
cation subsists between the waters of the Severn,
and the pool. The average depth is estimated at
nearly three hundred feet. — The town is large and
populous, partly standing in the bottom which ex-
tends to the river, and partly .ascending a low hill
towards Powys Park. It consists of one long,
wide, and spacious street, with another crossing it,
at right angles, and several smaller collateral ones.
The uniformity and cleanliness of these, with the
Louses being chiefly of brick, give the town an in-
citing appearance. The manners and language of
the persons arc completely English ; Welsh being
spoken by few, except such as c«me down from the
country, to transact business. Cheerfulness, ur-
banity, and opulence are apparent, owing to the
intercommunication with the more polished parts of
the kingdom, and to the trade in flannels; quan-
tities of which are manufactured here, and still
greater quantities are brought from the hill countries,
•where they are n.ade by the little farmers, with home-
spun yarn, of wool, the produce of their native
sheep ; which are bought up by dealers from Liver-
pool and Shrewsbury. This being the principal
mart for the article, a" market is held once a fort-
night for the sole purpose of exposing it to sale.
The church is in the pointed style, but apparently
of no great antiquity. It stands singularly at the
bottom of the hill, and is so low, that the ground
of the cemetery almost equals the height of the
building. Amongst jts sacramental ornaments, and
sacristal utensils, is a chalice of pure gold, brought
from (Juinea, in Africa; containing a wine quart,
and intrinsically worth 170/. It was the gift of
Thomas Davies, some time governor- general of the
English colonies on the western coast of Africa, iu
consideration of his life having been preserved,
during his residence in that unhealthy clime, under
many difficulties and dangers. — The county hall,
erected a few years ago, in the centre of the prin-
cipal street, is at once an ornament to the place,
and a proof of the liberality of the county ; for it j
was-bailt at the expense of a few gentlemen, for the |
express purpose of easing the county rate. It con- j
sists of upper apartments, for the administration of
justice; and lower ones, for. the accommodation of
trade. Beneath is a spacious place appropriated as
a corn market ; a separate space, for the sale of
miscellaneous articles ; and an ample court, for
holding the assize, or great sessions. On the se-
cond floor is the county-hall-room, for convening
pu.blic meetings ; sixty-four feet in length, twenty-
five in breadth, and eighteen high. — This town en-
joyed numerous privileges, under the lords of Powys
Castle. By one of its princes, it was early incorpo-
rated ; but the present charter was granted in the
time of Charles II. It is governed by two bailiffs,
a high-steward, town-clerk, two sergeants at mace,
&c. &c. The Severn becomes navigable a little
below the town, at what is called the Pool-stake ;
and a branch of the Ellesmere canal, running near,
tends to facilitate carriage by a water conveyance.
Powys Castle, a venerable pile, situated in a well
wooded park, about a mile from Pool, on the right
of the road to Montgomery, is built in the ancient
style of domestic architecture, participating of the
castle, and of the mansion. Occupying the ridge of
a roek, it is constructed of red sand stone ; and the
dilapidations made by time in the external walls,
have been repaired by a coat of red plaistering.
The entrance is by an ancient gateway, between two
massy circular towers, into the area, or court, round
which the apartments range. Several other towers
are standing, flanked with semicircular bastions.
The site is elevated and commanding. In front,
two immense terraces, rising one above another,
form the ascent, by means of a vast flight of steps,
to the house. These are ornamented with vases,
statues, antique remains, &c. &c. The inside,
which has a heavy and unpleasant appearance, from
the great thickness of the walls, exhibits little wor-
thy notice, excepting the principal gallery, 117 feet
in length, by 20 in breadth. It was originally
much longer ; but a large room has been taken from
it at one end. The apartments on the ground floor
are gloomy, as are also the dining, and state bed
rooms ; but the saloon and library are Well lighted,
and afford a cheering and delightful prospect. They
contain some valuable antiques. In the large par-
lour is a full length picture of Roger Palmer, Earl
of Castlemain, who obtained the peerage by the
influence of his wife, a mistress to Charles II. the
notorious Duchess of Cleveland. In a black wig,
large cravat, and scarlet mantle, he is represented
as in the act of dictating to his secretary the nature
of his instructions. — A narrow gallery, leading to
the sleeping rooms, is hung round with family por-
traits, indifferently executed. On one of the ceil-
ings is the representation of three daughters of
William, second Marquis of Powys. Otie is de-
picted as Truth ; Lady Throgmorton appears as
Charity ; Lady Mary as Minerva ; and Justice is
seen driving away Envy, Malice, and other vices.
In a detached building, more modern than the
castle, is a collection of sixty or seventy pictures ;
some of which are by Poussin, Claude, Bassano,
Vleiger, Canaletti, Cuyp, Carlo Dolce, Rubens,
&c ; and an ancient painting in fresco, from Pom-
peii. In an adjoining closet is the model of an ele-
phant, covered with a coat of mail, with two Indians
upon its back ; brought from India by the late Lord
Clive. — The hanging gardens, composed of terrace
upon terrace, are ascended by flights of steps cut
out
i
^
*
+
•• *^\ r r ™^f"5-i -"* ^^T.« ; — f\. -^ ^ -k'^ U >*4i * ^\
•4>r>'
»rf">^»
$ m:~b.*&s-\A y /' ts* •
WALES.
66*
•But of the solid rock ; the clipped shrubs, and the
remains of water-works, discover the imitations of
the taste formerly displayed at St. Gcrmains. Some
of these ornaments have been removed, and attempts
mnde to modernize the gardens as well as the
house. — The park is formed of spacious and verdant
lawns, with swelling hills, well clothed with wood.
The venerable castle, however, is going fast to
decay. * Some distance from Pool, is the chain
of mountains denominated the Freidden hills ; the
high linear ridge of which is divided into three
peaks, distinguished by the names of Craig y
Freidden, Cefn Castell, and Moel y Golfa. On
the last, the highest and most conical in shape, a
lofty and handsome obelisk was erected some years
ago, in commemoration of the victories over the
naval power of France, by Lord Rodney. It was
raised at the expense of a. few neighbouring fa-
milies. The bases of these hills are finely skirted
with wood ; while the rocky sides present a most
precipitous, and tremendous looking escarpment.
SOUTH WALES.
BRECKNOCKSHIRE.
GENERA*, DESCRIPTION.] — The county of Breck-
nock is bounded on the east by Monmouthshire
and Herefordshire ; on the north and north-west by
Radnorshire and Cardiganshire ; on the west by
Carmarthenshire ; and on the south by Glamorgan-
shire, and part of Monmouthshire. Its form is
somewhat elliptical ; in length, about 39 miles, in
breadth, 27, and in circumference about 109. Its
superficial contents have been estimated at 512,000
square acres ; but, according to the latest official
admeasurement, the number is only 467,840. Ex-
clusively of those portions of the surface which
are covered by the rivers and smaller streams, it is
estimated to contain about 300 acres of water. —
The principal rivers are the Usk, which issues from
the Black Mountains on the south-west side of the
county, runs north till it reaches Trecastle, and
then turning to the east, and passing Brecknock,
* The first notice, which history takes of this place, is about
4he year 1109, when Cadwgan ap Bleddyn ap Cynfyn sought
an asylum at Trallyn, now Pool, alter having reduced the
countr-y to some kind of settlement, and restored the courts
of jwdicature, in which he sate in person to administer justice.
Here he began to erect a castle, and intended to make this the
constant'scat of his future residence ; hut having been treach-
erously murdered by his nephew Maclwc, the building was left
unfinished. It experienced numerous vicissitudes, and change
of ownership, till the year 1421. Its subsequent possessors also
suffered various reverses of fortune till 1588, \vJien Edward
Grey, an illegitimate son of Edward Grey de I'owys, who had
inherited, through virtue of a settlement on his mother, con-
veyed by purchase, the lordship andcaslie of Powys to Sir Ed-
VOL. iv. — NO. 188.
leaves the county below Crickhowell : the Wye,
which waters the north side of the county, leaves it
at Hay, and enters Herefordshire : the Irvon, which,
has its source in the upper part of the hundred of
Builth ; and, after a course of no great length, fnlls
into the Wye, a little above the town of Builth.
The Tawe rises on the southern side of the Black
Mountains, and enters Glamorganshire at Ystrad-
gynlais ; whence it proceeds to Swansea, and falls
into the Bristol Channel. The Taf has also its
source in Brecknockshire ; but is an inconsidera-
ble stream until it enters Glamorganshire. Other
rivers of less note are the Groney, Honddu, Isker,
Brane, Cumulus, and Croy, which fall into the
Usk ; and the Dylas, Comaick, and the Wevesey,
which empty themselves into the Wye. They all
abound with fish, particularly the Usk and Wye,
which are well stored with salmon and trout. — The
chief lake in Brecknockshire, and one of the largest
in Wales, is Llynsavaddan, or more properly Llyn-
safeddan, the still or standing lake; which is called
also by the names of Brecknock Mere and Langorse
Mere. It covers a surface of about five miles in
circumference ; is about two miles in length, and
one mile in width. It has been stated to be from
nine to twelve feet deep; but, in some places, it is
40 or 50. Fish of different kinds are found here
in great plenty ; especially pike, perch, and eels.
Trout is excluded, probably by the presence of the
pike. Tradition ascribes the formation ot the lake
to the judgment of heaven on the descendants, in
the ninth generation, of a man who had robbed and
murdered a carrier, to obtain money to marry his
mistress. When the whole of the family were as-
sembled at a feast, an earthquake swallowed up,
both themselves and all their lands and houses,
leaving the site covered with water ; and common
people, even at this day, believe that a city once
stood here, which Camden, with a strange want of
consideration, pronounced to be the long sought
Loventium. — Brecknockshire is crossed by two
ranges of mountains, which present some eminences
of considerable elevation. The first, which is known
by the denomination of the Eppynt hills, rises on the
north eastern confines of the county of Carmarthen ;
and proceeding in an easterly direction, terminates
at Llyswen, on the banks of the Wye, after separat-
ing the greater part of the hundred of I Juiltli from
ward Herbert, second son of that celebrated and able statesman,
William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke. He was succeeded in
the estates by his son William, who was made knight of the
Bath at the coronation of James I. ; and, by his son Charles I.
created Lord Powys. His successor, Peiroy, Lord Powys, on
the civil war breaking out, declared in favour of royalty, forti-
fied his castle, and placed -in it a garrison of which he took the
command ; but the Parliamentarian army, under Sir T. Myd-
dleton, laid siege to it, and in October 1644, the fortress was
surrendered, the noble owner taken prisoner, and the place pil-
laged His fine estates were confiscated, and he was constrain-
ed to compound for them, by which means he obtained repos-
session.
8r
the
666
WALES.
the other portion of the county. The second chain,
which partly divides Brecknockshire from the two
neighbouring counties of Glamorgan and Monmouth,
may be said to commence on the west, with two con-
spicuous hills of abrupt elevation, called Banniu
Sir Gaer, or the Carmarthenshire beacons ; then
stretching in a line nearly parallel with the Eppynt
range, it extends into Monmouthshire, and termi-
nates on the southern side of the Usk, below the
town of Crickhowell. The most elevated summits
in this chain, and perhaps the highest ground in
South Wales, are two contiguous "peaks, about
five miles south-west from Brecknock ; computed
to be 850 yards above the bed of the Usk at this
place, and about 1000 yards above the level of the
sea, at the junction of that river with the Severn.
They are sometimes distinguished by the name of
the Van, or Beacon ; but more usually by the plural
appellation of Bannau Brecheinog, or the Breck-
nockshire beacons. They are also known by the
denomination of Cadair Arthur, or Arthur's chair ;
Welsh traditionary Romance assigning this sp&t as
one of the seats of that hero. These peaks form
very striking and picturesque objects from very
distant parts of South Wales, and command a pro-
spect of astonishing variety and extent. — At some
distance below, is a small lake, about a mile in cir-
cumference, called Llyn Cvvm Llwch, inhabited by
immense numbers of water lizards. The legends
of the country assign to this pool an unfathomable
depth ; but the probability is, that its bottom might
easily be reached. — Besides these two chains, there
arises another at Talgarth, on the eastern side of
the county. This is called the Black Mountains ;
a name which is also given to the range last de-
scribed through a considerable part of its course,
and sometimes Mynydd y Gadair, or the Chair
Mountain ; but, when it has entered Herefordshire,
it is denominated the Hatterell Hills. Y Gadair
fawr, or the Great Chair, its loftiest summit,
is in height second only to Arthur's Chair. It
may be remarked, that this county generally con-
sists of hill and dale, few level tracts of any
considerable size occurring in its whole extent.
From this great irregularity, a corresponding
variety occurs in the nature and quality of the
soil in this county. The vale of Usk is chiefly com-
posed of a sandy loam, which being very porous,
and consequently open to the action of the sun,
yields but light crops, except in wet seasons. On
advancing to the northward, the soil becomes more
fertile and tenacious, and at length changes to a dark
brown peat surface, from six to twelve inches in
depth, with an argillaceous or clay bottom. The
vale of Wye presents a brown gravelly soil, which,
on descending, deepens, as the vale widens, into a
fine rich loam. The systems of agriculture pursued
in this county are in general very defective, and ill
adapted to the peculiarities of the soil. Wheat, rye,
barley, oats, vetches, turnips, and potatoes, are the
common arable crops of the south and south eastern
parts of the county, and they are cultivated with
tolerable success. The common practice of hus-
bandry along the vale of Usk, is' this: — " fallow,
wheat, peas, or barley, oats, turnips, and clover ;
let the clover lie for two years, and wheat upon the
clover lay. But the more enlightened agriculturists
pursue the following routine : — fallow and sow tur-
nips, barley and clover one year, wheat on lay, peas,
or oats, fallow again and sow turnips." The reap-
ing hook, or sickle, is the instrument commonly used
for cutting the corn ; hut the scythe and cradle have
been partially introduced. The ploughing is very
defective. — Carts and waggons are employed upon
the farms over the greater part of the county ; but
in some of the mountainous districts the Welsh car,
or sledge, drawn by one horse, is still retained. —
The most common manures are yard- muck and com-
post. Lime is much used in some districts. The
lands not subjected to the plough, which compose a
very large proportion, may be ranked under the two
classes of natural meadows, and commons, which
are appropriated to sheep walks. The commons in
the lowlands are gradually disappearing; but the
extensive mountain ranges must still be ceded to the
numerous flocks of sheep The horses, and the
horned cattle of this county, as well as its sheep,
are small ; but the fanners are attending to the im-
provement of the former both for the saddle and for
agricultural purposes. For the latter, they cross
the Suffolk punch breed with their own. Their cattle
they improve by crosses from the Glamorganshire
and Hereford breeds. The value of land varies
materially in different parts of the county. In the
mountainous districts, many farms let at about six or
seven shillings an acre, and some of the poorest as
Jow as three shillings. In the vales the average
may be from fifteen shillings to a guinea an
acre, and in the neighbourhood of towns H rises as
high as three or four pounds. There is no general
system pursued as to the lettings : some let at rack
rent ; others grant leases for seven, fourteen, and
twenty-one years; and some of the great proprietors
give leases of three lives. — Many improvements have
originated with the society, which was instituted
at Brecknock in 1755, by some gentlemen of pro-
perty and influence, for the purpose of encouraging'
agriculture and manufactures, in (heir native^ pro-
vince. The mineral treasures of this county are
neither numerous nor rich ; but the materials are of
the first importance. The strata may be classed into
five principal species : argillaceous shale, or schist,
of various degrees ot compactness; Pennant stone,
laminated, and used for the purpose of roofing
houses ; and limestone stratum, degenerating to-
wards the south-west into a stone resembling chert.
The chert, as it rises from the calcareous substra-
tum, becomes more and more siliceous, until it
becomes a perfect burr, which is used for millstones,
and the hearths of furnaces. The fifth species is a
siliceous freestone, occasionally intervening betweeu
the burr just mentioned, and the iron-stone. The
chief
WALES.
C67
chief objects of attention, however, are limestone,
coal, and iron ore. Some lead and copper ore have
been occasionally discovered, but not in sufficient
quantity to remunerate the labours of the miner.
— Several springs, possessing medicinal qualities,
have been discovered in different parts of this coun-
ty ; but only a few of them have acquired celebrity.
On a tenement called the Park, near the town of
Builth, are three springs of different properties,
saline, sulphureous, and chalybeate. Owing to their
contiguity, and the want of proper care in the work-
men employed in erecting a building on the spot,
for the accommodation of visitors, their waters have
united and intermixed. At present, therefore, they
are of doubtful and uncertain application. The
water which is highest in repute, is that of Llan-
wrtyd, on the bands ofthelrvon, called Y Ffynnon
Ddrewllyd, or the stinking well. A comfortable
mansion is open here for the accommodation of
visitors, who flock in the summer season, from all
parts of the kingdom, to try its healing virtues.
The sanative qualities of this spring were first dis-
covered in the year 1732, by the Rev. Theophilus
Evans, vicar of Llangamarch, in this county ; and,
from experience, the water is ascertained to be of
equal efficacy with that of Harrowgate in scorbutic
and scrophulous complaints, and is found particu-
larly useful in ulcers, and foulness of the skin. It
acts powerfully as a diuretic. A commodious warm
sulphur bath was erected here, a few years ago,
which greatly assists the effects of the internal use
of the water.
- This county was anciently denominated Garth
Madrin ; the origin of which appellation is not
clearly ascertained. Garth is a -British word, de-
noting a steep elevated ridge, or precipitous moun-
tain ; Madrin is an old and obsolete term for a fox ;
and, in early times, the country is thought to have
been much infested by foxes. The modern name,
Brecknock, sometimes written Brecon, and in Welsh
Brecheinog, and Brecheiniawg, is derived from
Brychan, a prince, or king, who held this territory
under his dominion about the beginning of the 5th
century. — At what period«this tract of country was
first peopled, has not been determined. The Ro-
mans having directed their forces first to the con-
quest of the native Britons who had retired to the
northern parts of Wales, South Wales escaped for
a time, through the policy of its chieftains ; 'who
led their followers to the assistance of their northern
countrymen, and to the attack of the common foe
at a distance from their homes. Thus the Roman
legions do not appear to have marched into this
quarter till the hopes of the Britons had received
their death blow by the defeat and capture of Ca-
ractaciis, who for nine years had bidden effectual
defiance to the Roman commanders. Os.torius Sca-
pula then bent his steps towards the south ; and it
is conjectured, that most of the Roman fortresses in
this county were built during the life of that general.
The principal station is that of the Gaer, or Caer
Bannau, the Bannium of the Romans, about thre«
miles above the town of Brecknock, near the con-
fluence of the Yskir and the Usk. The camp is a
parallelogram of 624 feet by 456, the longest pa-
rallels pointing nearly south and north. The foun-
dation of the wall, which bounds this area, remains
entire ; and even the ruins of it above ground ar»
in some places (particularly on the north and east
sides) from three to six feet high, and part of the
facing is still perfect. There is another Roman
encampment, also called the Gaer, in the parish of
Cwmdu, in the hundred of Crickhowell. Its di-
mensions are much the same as those of Cacr Ban-
nau, but in form it approaches nearer to a square.
It was not until the arrival of Julius Frontinus,
about A. D. 70, that South Wales can be said t»
have been subdued. This commander led his vic-
torious legions through the heart of the country,
and in a short period completed what Ostorius had
failed to accomplish. No details are transmitted by
ancient historians of his progress and •victories.
The road which bears his name may be regarded as
indicating with tolerable exactness the chief line of
his march. Commencing at Bath, it proceeds to
the northward of the Avon, by Bristol, and over
Durham Down to the Severn, which it crossed
nearly in the direction of Caldecot, and thence pass-
ed through Carwent to Carleon, in Monmouthshire.
From this station it continued in nearly a direct line
to Cardiff, Neath, and Longhor in Glamorganshire,
and thence to the town of Carmarthen. Another
branch turned from Carleon through Usk and Aber-
gavenny into Brecknockshire. Having entered this
county, it passed through Crickhowell and Tre-
tower, to the station of Gaer in Cwmdu. Hence
it proceeded through a pass called Bwlch, and in a
line to the northward of the present turnpike road,
towards the town of Brecknock ; and then took its
course to the station of Caer Bannau, on the conflu-
ence of the Yskir and the Usk. It shortly after
crossed the latter river, and continuing in a westerly ,
direction recrossed it at Rhyd y Briw. Hence it
proceeded to Tal y Sarn, Llys Brychan, and down
along the vale of Towy to Maridunum, where it
united itself with the other branch. Several other
vicinal or cross roads are also to be traced in this
part of the principality. From the reduction of the
Silures by Frontinus, to the final departure of the
Romans, no mention is found in any historical docu-
ment, entitled to credit, of the affairs of this district.
The reign of Brychan may be dated from A. D. 400
to 450. Little is known of his conduct in his regal
capacity; but he holds a distinguished place among
the worthies of Wales, from the number and the ce-
lebrity of his children, and the connexion of the
names of most of them with the religious and paro-
chial history of the principality. The family of
Brychan was denominated one of the _ three holy
families of Britain, for " bringing up his children
and grandchildren, in learning, so as to be able to
shew the faith in Christ to the Cymry, when they
were
668
WALES.
"were without the faith." — About the year 944, a
survey was made of the territory of Brecknock, in
common with the rest of Wales, by order of Hywel
J)il;>, who had united under his supreme govern-
ment the kingdoms both of North and South Wales.
From this period the individual history of the county
is unimportant.
The county of Brecknock is divided into the six
following hundreds : Builth, Crickhovvell, Devyn-
nock, Merthyr, Pinkelly, Talgarth, and these hun-
dreds are subdivided into 67 parishes, and one part of
a parish. The county has four market-towns : Breck-
nock, Builth, Crickhowell, and Hay ; six petty ses-
sions, and ISacting county magistrates. — The Breck-
nockshire Society, instituted in 1755, contemplated
the encouragement and promotion of manufactures,
equally with the improvement of agriculture and
rural economy ; and, as the county produced large
quantities of wool, it formed one part of their plan,
to have that staple commodity wrought into cloth at
home. This scheme, however, failed ; and the chief
part of the wool of Brecknockshire continues to be
manufactured in other counties. The iron works of
this county form, however, an object of more im-
portance. Most of them lie on the borders of Mon-
mouthshire. Most of the ore is supplied from the
estates of the Duke of Beaufort. — One of the most
important improvements which have of late been
effected in the commercial intercourse of this county
has been the formation of its canal, from the town of
Brecknock, to join the Monmouthshire canal, near
Pont y pool. It was begun in 1790, and in 1800
was completed from Llanelly to Brecknock, so as
to enable the: inhabitants to receive their coal fuel
from the pits in the neighbourhood of the former
place. Tlie whole was completed in 1812, and the
communication opened by water from Brecknock to
the sea. This canal is 30 feet in width, with a depth
of four feet at;d a hali of water, and is navigated by
barges of twenty-five tons' burden. From Breck-
nock to Newport there are forty locks, and the fall
in that extent is three hundred and ninety- nine feet.
— The southern divisions of this county, bordering
on Glamorganshire, derive considerable advantage
from two other canals, one from Swansea along the
vale of Tawe, which pervades a part of Brecknock-
shire in the parish of Ystradgynlais, and one from
Neath, which is connected with it by means of a
tram road.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
ABERSCIR.] — Nearly opposite to Llanspyddyd,
at the junction of the Usk and the Ysker, stands
Aberscir, formerly the metropolis of the county, -i
and the site of the Roman station Caer Bannuu.
The mansion of Aberscir Court has long been oc-
cupied as a farm-house. A little further up the ;
•vale of Ystrad^ynlnis is the mansion of Aberbran, ;
whose proprietors, tracing their descent from the
Bullens and the Gams, have long borne the name
of Williams. On a small hill, above the house, are
some inconsiderable remains of a British encamp-
ment, which have acquired for the place the descrip-
tive appellation of the G.ier ; and, in the same
neighbourhood; formerly stood a castleated mansion,
called Castell Eynon Suis, from a chieftain of con-
siderable celebrity.
BATTLE.] — This village, in the neighbourhood of
Brecknock, is remarkable chiefly for having been
the scene of the conflict which 'determined the fate
of Brecknockshire, and crowned the triumph of the
Norman conqueror.
BRECKNOCK.] — Brecknock, the county town, 168
miles from London, is charmingly situated at the
confluence of the Usk and the Hondcln ; and, from
the junction of these rivers, the town is known to
every Welshman by the naiiie of Aberhonddu.
" Few towns," as Sir Richard Hoare has justly
observed " surpass Brecknock in picturesque beau-
ties : the different mills and bridges on the nvers
Usk and Honddu, the ivy-mantled walls and towers
of the old castle, the massive embattled turret and
gateway of the priory, with its luxuriant groves,
added to the magnificent range of mountain scenery
on the southern side of the town, form, in many
points of view, the most beautiful, rich, and varied
outline imaginable." The town, however, is very
irregularly built ; yet it has a few tolerably good
streets, and several handsome private houses. The
public walks are very fine, and much frequented.
One of them, of a sequestered character, is laid out
with great taste through the priory woods, which
overhang the Honddu ; and another lies along the
shore of the Usk, under the old town-wall, and
commands a fine view to the southward of the river.
— The entire length of the town, including the
suburb of Llanvaes, is about a mile, and its greatest
breadth about four hundred yards. It was anciently
surrounded by a wall, defended at equal distances
by ten towers. On the eastern side, the wail was
farther protected by the Honddu, which separated
it from the castle ; on the southern by the Usk ;
and on the northern by an artificial excavation,
intended to divert a part of the Honddu that way,
so as completely to insulate the place. The entrances
were through five gates, placed at the principal
thoroughfares. Of these, two still remain. — Breck-
nock contains three parishes : St. John the Evange-
list ; St. Mary ; and St. David's, on the opposite
side of the Usk, which is here crossed by a long
narrow bridge. Here are at present no manufac-
tures of consequence. Hats are the chief article,
and some inferior woollen cloth is made. The com-
pletion of the canal, however, promises to give fresh
life and vigour to the trade of the town. Brecknock
is indebted for most of its civil distinctions to its
contiguity to the castle, whose lords conferred upon
it from time to time a number of exclusive rights
and privileges ; which, when feudal authority ceased,
were permanently secured by Parliament. By the
present charter, granted in the second and third of
William
WALES.
and Mary, the borough is governed by a bailiff,
aldermen, common council, &c. in corporate bodies.
'J'he charter confers some singular mummifies, which,
however, are snid to be null from their illegality,
and their interference with the prior established rights
of other places. The revenues of the corporation,
arising from the tolls, and sealing of leather, produce
about 0 1/. per annum, which are paid to the bailiff;
but the expenses of his office far exceed this sum.
The Norman chief, Bernard Newmarch, not con-
sidering the old metropolis of the county, Abersci,
at Caer Bannau, sufficiently adapted for security in
a hostile country, demolished that town, and with
its materials erected, about the year 1094, the castle
of Brecknock, which became afterwards the resi-
dence of his successors. — The fortress occupied the
brow of an abrupt hill on a point of land formed
by the Usk and Honddu, and on the western side
of the latter stream. Of the present remains, the
principal part is the keep, which, from having been
the prison- of Morton, Bishop of Ely, and the sup-
posed scene of his important conference with the
Duke of Buckingham, has since obtained the de-
signation of Ely Tower. The form and size of the
castle have been ascertained from the ruins of the
foundations. It seems to have been originally a
parallelogram of 300 feet in length by 240 in breadth,
having two watch towers at each angle. There is an
appearance of a deep trench on the northern side,
conjectured to have been designed to convey a part
of the waters of the Honddu in that direction, so as
to insulate the whole site of the castle. The prin-
cipal entrance was on the western side, where there
was a bridge of two arches over the moat. There
was a postern, on the eastern side, which commu-
nicated with the town by means of a bridge of two
arches ; once a drawbridge. Within the building
stood a chapel dedicated to St. Nicholas, which was
served by the monks of the adjacent priory of St.
John. — Whilst the Lords Marchers retained their
authority, this formed the seat of government for
the lordship of Brecknock ; but after the property
had escheated to the crown, its consequence ceased,
and the building being neglected fell into decay.
Part of it was at a subsequent period converted into
a common gaol for the use of the county. In the
reign of Charles I. the inhabitants of Brecknock,
to avoid the burden of a garrison, and the evils
attending a fortified place in time of war, demolished
the castle to nearly its present state, and rased the
walls which surrounded the town.
At a short distance from the castle, on a delight-
ful eminence above the western bank of the Honddu,
once stood the Priory, of which almost the only
vestige now remaining is a portion of the external
wall. This house was founded and endowed in the
reign of Henry I. by Bernard Newmarch, for six
Benedictine monks, as a cell to the abbey of Battle
in Sussex, and was dedicated to St. John the Evan-
gelist. Its revenues were afterwards greatly aug-
mented by liberal grants from several of Bernard's
VOL. iv. — NO. 189.
successors, and also by private b*q«psto. They were
estimated, at tin- Dissolution, at 134/. 1 1*. 4c/. The
! mansion, now called the Priory, belongs to the.
, Marquis Camden, whose father obtained it by mar-
1 riage with Elizabeth, the grand-'laughter of Sir
1 John Jeffreys. After the Dissolution, it was pos-
I sessed by the family of Price, from a branch of
Which Sir John Jeffreys had purchased it.
The church of St. John the Evangelist, which
occupies a part of the same eminence, once apper-
tained to the Priory. It owes its erection to Ber-
nard Newmarch ; but it is conjectured, from the
Saxon font, and some other architectural relics,
that it might only have been rebuilt on the site of
an older church. At a distance, it exhibits r.ither
a striking and venerable appearance ; but, by the
tasteless labour of successive repairers, it has been
dreadfully defaced. Its original architecture, how-
ever, appears to have been Gothic. The nave is
about 137 feet in length, by 29 feet in breadth. At
the western end, the transept 'is divided into two
parts; that on the northern side, which forms the
entrance, is called the chapel of the men of battle,
and measures 30 feet 6 inches, by 29 feet ; that on
the southern side, called the chapel of the red-
haired men, (the Normans,) is of the same breadth
with the other, but extends to 38 feet 3 inches ill
length. The chancel is divided from the body of
the church by a gallery, formerly the rood loft ;
which, like the nave, is ceiled and divided into
compartments, disfigured with paint. On each side
are seen three rows of light beautifully clustered
columns, broken off just above the corbels. The
steeple, which is a lofty awl massive structure, 30
feet square within the walls, is raised over the centre
or intersecting point of the cross, and has six bells.
The church contains a considerable number of sepul-
chral monuments, some of them of ancient date. —
Nearly in the centre of the town stands the church
or chapel of St. Mary, erected about the latter
end of the 12th, or the beginning of the 13th cen-
tury. The interior consists of two aisles ; and at
the east end there is a guild chapel, which once
pertained to the worshipful company of shoemakers.
The steeple, which is more ancient than the body of
the church, is about ninety feet in height, and has
a very majestic appearance. The consistory court
for the archdeaconry of Brecknock is held in this
church.— St. David's enure! , or St. David's in the
Held, situated in the suburb--., on the southern side
of the Usk, is a small neat edifice.— Christ Church
College, in the suburb of St. David's, on the banks
of the Usk, was anciently a monastery of Black
Friars, with an appurtenant church dedicated to
St. Nicholas. Its church is only 63 feet in length
by 24 in breadth, and comprises merely the choir and
chancel of the original edifice, which was destroyed
during the commotions in the reign of Charles I.
Attached to the foundation is a grammar-school,
from which young men are ordained, without tfye
necessity of graduating at either university. Tttc
8 « County
670
WALES.
County Gaol, a modern erection constructed on Mr.
Howard's plan, is within this parish. — Amongst the
an -lent mansions in this neighbourhood, is Heolva-
nog, or Aelvanog, the lofty brow, which was long
the property of the Havards of Cwrt Sion Young.
Frwdgrech, another seat once possessed by this
family, became, by marriage, the property of the
Lewises, and the Wiliiainses. — A third seat of the
Ilavard family was Newton, which passed by mar-
riage into that of Games, one of whom, Sir John
Games, erected the present mansion.* — At a place
called Pen y Crug, on the summit of a hill, two
miles N. W. from Brecknock, is a British military
work, described by Mr. Strange as " one of the
most curious and best preserved remains of that kind
throughout the whole principality." The fdrm of
this camp is oval, the longest diameter, lying N. and
S. being 600 feet, ami the shortest about 430 feet.
This area, surrounded by four ditches, is excavated
to the depth of about eighteen feet. The western
and southern sides of the eminence are exceedingly
steep and almost precipitous. There are also some
remains of a British camp on an eminence called
Slwch, and sometimes Cefn y Gaer, or the camp
ridge, on the opposite side of the valley. — Among
the old mansions on this side of the town of Breck-
nock, may be mentioned Pont wilym, now a farm-
house, but once a seat of the Havards. Cwrt Sion
Young, or John Young's Court, on the road to
Battle, of which hardly a vestige now remains, was j
also held for many years by a branch of the Havards.
* Dr. Hugh Price, the founder of Jesus College, Oxford,
was the second son of Bees ap Rees, (abbreviated Frees or
Price,) y cigwr, a butcher, at Brecknock. The father, a bur-
gess of the town, acquired by trade a considerable property,
which descended principally to his eldest son. Hugh Price is
believed to have received his education in Oseney Abbey, Ox-
fordshire ; and he was admitted to the degree of doctor of civil
law at Oxford in 1525: he was afterwards a prebendary of
.Rochester, and treasurer of St. David's. Having observed,
and probably experienced, the inconvenience to which the
natives of the principality were subjected, owing to there being
no foundation at the university to which they could be admitted,
he applied to Queen Elizabeth for permission to raise a college
which he proposed to endow. A charter was in consequence
granted, June 25, 1571, to erect one under the title or desig-
nation of "Jesus College, within the city and university of ^
Oxford, of Queen Elizabeth's foundation." His death look
place about the year 1574. — Mr. Theophilus Jones, the learned
author of the History of Brecknockshire, horn October 18,
1759, was the son of the Rev. Hugh Jones, (successively vicar
of ihe parishes of Llangammarch and Llywel, in this counfy,
and'a prebendary of the collegiate church of Brecknock,) and
•f one of the daughters of Theophi'us Evans, clerk, author of
a brief Epitome of British Hirtory, intituled " Drych y prif
oesoedd, or "A Mirror of Ancient Times," written in the
Welsh language. His principal education was completed in the
college school at Brecknock, where he formed an intimacy with
Mr. Davies, the author of " Celtic Researches," and " Mytho-
Jogy of the British Druids." Destined to the law, he was, it a
proper age, placed under the care of an eminent practitioner in
Brecknock — and having passed the period of his articles, he
entered into the profession upon his own account ; and conti-
nued in it for many years, as an attorney and solicitor in that
place. Upon a vacancy in the Deputy Registrarship of the
Archdeaconry of Brecknock, he was appointed to that office,
Pennant, another mansion, no longer standing, was
situated a little farther to the westward.
At Llanddevr, about two miles to the north-east
of the town, there is little to be seen besides the
church, which is one of the oldest in the county.
It was formerly distinguished for a palace belonging
to the bishop of St. David's. One side wall of
its chapel, containing three lancet windows, is yet
standing, and a part of the end.
BRYNLLYS.] — The poor and inconsiderable village
of Brynllys, seven miles from Brecknock, enjoys
some historical celebrity from its castle, the remains
of which consist of a lofty circular tower, occupy-
ing a moderately elevated site on the banks of the
Llyfni. This castle, the ruins of which constitute a
very picturesque object in the scenery of the place,
has been thought, by some distinguished antiqua-
ries, to have been built by the ancient Britons, in
imitation of the Pheenician or Syrian construction ;
but the more probable opinion is, that it was erected
by William the Conqueror, or one of his immediate
successors, who attempted the conquest of South
Wales from this quarter. At the period of Bernard
Newmarch's invasion of the county, it was granted
by the crown to Richard Fitzpons ; and it was af-
terwards given, by Henry 1. to the Cliffords.
Maud, the widow of William Sponsee, Earl of Sa-
lisbury, who had inherited this property from her
ancestors, was forced into a marriage by John
Giffard of Brimsfield in Gloucestershire, who thus
possessed himself of the estates of her family.
which he held till his death. His natural bent, however, in-
clined him to the pursuit of literary, rather than of legal, studies;
but it was not till about the year 1800, or 1801, that he seri-
ously entertained an idea of writing the history of his county.
Having no children, and his amiable consort's disposition per-
fectly agreeing with his own, he resolved upon a retirement
from professional engagements. There was no part of the
county into which he did not extend his personal researches.
Genealogy and heraldry were, however, the favourite subjects
of his inquiry ; and there is scarcely a family of any conse-
quence in the principality, whose armorial bearings and descent
he has not diligently traced. The first volume of his Breck-
nockshire (in 4to) comprising " the Chorography, General
History, Religion, Laws, Customs, Manners, Language, and
System of Agriculture used in that county," was published in
1805; and the second volume, containing, "the Antiquities,
Sepulchral Monuments and Inscriptions, Natural Curiosities,
Variations of the Soil, Stratification, Mineralogy, and a copi-
ous list of rare and other Plants, also the Genealogies and Arms
of the principal Families, properly coloured or emblazoned,
together with the names of the Patrons and Incumbents of all
the Parishes and Livings in that county," in 1809. As a County
Historian, he is generally faithful. With the exception of a few
communications to periodical publications, and two papers in
the Cambrian Register, intituled " Cursory Remarks oa
Welsh Tours or Travels," and " Remarks on the History of
Monmouthshire, by David Williams," this is believed to have
been his only literary production. His last literary attempt,
which he had scarcely finished before his final illness, was a
translation of the Welsh romance, intituled Visions of the Sleep*
ing Bard, in the manner of the Visions of Fr. de Quivedo, by
the Rev. Ellis Wynne, of Merionethshire, a divine of the last
century. Having been long severely afflicted with the gout,
he expired on the 15th of Jauuary, 1SUJ.
Brynllys
WALES.
671
Brynllys afterwards belonged to the Bobuns and
the Staffords, from whom it escheated to the crown ;
and, after passing through several hands, it was
obtained by the present proprietor by purchase.
Mahel, the son of Milo Fitzwalter, and the grand-
son of Bernard Newmarch, lost his life at this place
by an accident. — A little to the westward stands
Trebarried, once the residence of a branch of the
Vaughan family, containing a few family portraits.
This house is near the site of an older mansion,
called Trcbuis, the seat of a family of the name of
13ois ; the possessions of which family passed by
marriage to one of the Vaughans of Tretower.
Trephilip, and Velin Newydd, in the same vicinity,
also the seats of these families, now possess little
importance. Pont y Wall, the seat of F. Philips,
-Esq. is a handsome edifice, on the same side of the
turnpike road. To the southward of Brynllys, in the
parish of Talgarth, is Tregunler, so named from the
Gunters, followers of Bernard Newmarch, who once
possessed considerable weight in the county. The
present mansion was built about 50 years ago by
Mr. Thomas Harris, a native of Talgarth, who had
acquired an honourable fortune in London by trade,
as a mercer ; ami, in the latter part of his life, as an
army clothier. Mr. Jones, the county historian,
states, that much ot his success was ascribed to the
following singular adventure : " Some of the frater-
nity of the bnn-vivants had been keeping it up until
daylight, and until Mr. Harris began his morning's
work, when they were amusing themselves with
breaking the windows in the neighbourhood. He
immediately joined the party in the sport, and as-
sisted them in demolishing his own ; after which he
told them, he knew the master of the house they
were attacking, that he was a jolly fellow, kept an
excellent bottle of wine in his cellar ; and that he
was determined to compel him to produce it, if they
would partake of it. The invitation was accepted ;
the wine was good, and their associate was disco-
vered to be the host. His good humour was never
forgotten : from that moment his fortune was made :
they not only employed him in his business them-
selves, but recommended him to their friends, and
procured him contracts. By these means, in a few
years he was able to purchase the estates of Tre-
gunter, Trevecca, and a property surrounding them
to the amount of 100G/. per annum, or thereabouts,
and here he retired to spend the remainder of his
days in otio cum felicitate, if not cum digiiitate. He
was sheriff of Breconshire in 1768. His monument
in the church of Talgarth states, that " in him the
poor always found a most bountiful benefactor, his
heart and mansion being ever open to the feelings
of humanity, by relieving the distresses of the in-
digent." He died on the 23d of September, 178-2,
at the advanced age of 77 ; bequeathing Tregunter,
with nearly the whole of his other property, to Mrs.
Hughes, the daughter of his elder brother, Mr. Jo-
seph Harris, the author of a well known elementary
treatise on optics. Howell Harris, another, and
the youngest brother of this family, was much dis-
tinguished by his exertions in the cause of Calvin-
istic Methodism. Though refused orders at Ox-
ford, where he had been educated, he became a zea-
lous preacher. In 1750, when some apprehensions
of an invasion were entertained, he made a volun-
tary offer, to furnish, at his own expense, ten light
horsemen completely armed and accoutred. The
proposal was accepted ; and Mr. Harris appointed
to an ensigncy in the county militia ; but soon after-
wards he was invested with the command of a com-
pany, in which were enrolled many of his own fol-
lowers. The regiment was marched through dif-
ferent parts of England. " In this progress," ob-
serves Mr. Jones, " very remarkable scenes fre-
quently occurred : one part of the regiment were
heard chaunting hymns along the road, while the
others were roaring loyal or bacchanalian songs ;
sometimes the captain was elevated upon a table or
a chair in the streets, preaching in his regimentals ;
at others he appeared mounted in the meeting-
house, holding forth in a black coat."— In the latter
part of his life he derived much support from Lady
Huntingdon, who came to reside in his neighbour-
hood. Mr. Harris died at Treveca, July 28, 1773,
and was buried in Talgarth church. He left one
daughter, from whom, however, he left nearly the
whole of his fortune, for the support of a fraternity
of a singular kind. In 1752, he formed the plan of
a religious community, something similar in its con-
stitution to the Moravian societies ; and he accord-
ingly laid the foundation of Trevecca House, with,
a sufficient extent of buildings, and ground, to ac-
commodate a large number of inhabitants. His-
project succeeded extensively ; and the establish-
ment is said to have contained at one time about
one hundred and fifty efficient members, exclusively
of children, as celibacy formed no law of the insti-
tution. Since Mr. Harris's death, however, the
number has considerably declined. Lower Tre-
vecca is an ancient mansion, of the age of Eliza-
beth, built by an heiress of the name of Rebecca
Prosser, from whom the house, and subsequently
the hamlet in which it stands, have been denomi-
nated. On the front wall of the porch is a stone,
about three feet square, bearing some rude and un-
couth carvings, with an almost obliterated inscrip-
tion aiid date, " Jesus 1576." Lady Huntingdon
took this house, which she converted into a college,
and endowed for the education of twelve young men
for the ministry in her own connexion. She also
made it for some time the place of her own resi-
dence. The institution, however, has long been,
dissolved.
BUILTH.] — The neat little market-town of Builth,
or Buallt, fourteen miles from New Radnor, and
177 from London, is delightfully situated on the
southern bank of the Wye, in an open part of the
vale, but surrounded by abrupt and lofty hills. Its
name appears to be derived from " Bu," an ox,
and " allt," a wooded eminence ; signifying, toge-
thes
672
WALES,
ther, Ox-cliff, or Oxen-holt. The town is com-
posed chiefly of two parallel streets ; one, close to
the river, which is narrow, ill-built, and extremely
dirty ; the other, on the higher ground, which is
more open, and contains some good modern houses.
In one of the few lanes which connect these streets,
stands the King's Head, the principal inn of the
town. The chief thoroughfare is through the low-
er street. Builth has a deceptive appearance of
considerable trade ; but its fairs are abundantly
supplied with the small cattle and sheep of the
neighbourhood. The parish church (St. Mary's in
Builth) stands at the western extremity of the lower
street, on the bank of the river. It is a neat modern
structure. It contains an old monument, purport-
ing to be the effigies of John Lloyd, Esq. of Towy,
a descendant of the Lloyds, partisans of the Earl
of Richmond, afterwards Henry VII. This mo-
nument appears to have been removed from an older
church. — Amongst some very respectable houses,
near the sacred edifice, is the seat of Richard Price,
Esq. Over the Wye, is a handsome stone bridge,
with six arches, of modern erection. On the 20th
of December, 1691, almost the whole of this town
was burnt. In the brief which was granted to col-
lect money for the relief of the sufferers, we are told,
that " the fire raged for five hours, and, from the
boisterousness of the wind, consumed the dwelling
houses of forty-one substantial families, with all
their corn, furniture, effects, and merchandizes, to
the great impoverishment of the adjacent country,
and the decay of trade ; it being a very considerable
market-town, and having no market kept within ten
miles of it ; the damage sustained by this fire, as
ascertained by the oaths, as well of the sufferers as
of the architects and tradesmen of different descrip-
tions, amounted to 10.780/. besides 2000/. sustained
by persons of ability, who did not apply for relief."
At the eastern end of the town, on a small eminence
above the river, is the site of Builth Castle, once a
fortress of considerable strength and importance.
Its history is involved in obscurity. Neither the
name of. the founder, nor the date of its construction,
has been ascertained ; nor is it known to • whom its
demolition is to be ascribed. — Camden, and others,
state Builth to have been the ancient Bullcum
lurum of Ptolemy ; but this seems to be mere
groundless conjecture. — Builth is distinguished as
the last retreat of the unfortunate Llewelyn ap
Gryffydd. Tradition states that when, at the crisis
of his fortune, he applied to the castle for shelter,
they refused him admittance; whence the inhabit-
ants! to this day, bear the reproachful title of Brad-
wyr Buallt, or the traitors of Builth. The scene ol
his death is placed on the banks of the Irvon, a short
distance to the westward of the town, where a place
called Cefyn y bedd, the grave ridge or bank, is
thought to indicate the spot. About a mile west-
ward of the town ruffs a small brook, called Nant
yr Arian, or Money Brook ; from a tradition that
when the plague raged in Builth, the country peo-
)le, who supplied the place with provisions, put
;hem down here, and were paid for them by money
dropped into the water to prevent the spread of the
nfection. — The Irvon empties its waters into the
Wye a little above Builth. — To the right, on en-
tering the vale, but on the northern shore of the
Whefri river, which here joins the Irvon, stood the
mansion of Rhosferig, formerly the property of
Elstan Glodrydd, Prince of Ferregs. The present
edifice is delightfully situated. John Lloyd, Esq.
the late proprietor, who was the last lineal descend-
ant of the eldest line of Elystan, was accidentally
drowned in crossing the river near his own house.
Pare ar Irvon, another mansion in this vicinity, has
been converted into a farm-house. On a steep and
lofty bank of the Irvon, a little above its fall into the
Wye, is a mound of earth, the apparent site of a
fortress called Castell Caer Beris. About a mile
from Builth, are the saline springs, called the Park
Wells, already noticed in our preliminary descrip-
tion.
CATHEDINE.] — In the parish of Cathedine, ad-
joining that of Talgarth, are the borough and castle
of Blaenllyfni. The borough retains its name in
the county rolls ; its chief magistrate is called over
at the great sessions ; and its inhabitants are ex-
empt from tolls ; but, according to the last returns,
its number of houses was only 35, and its inhabit-
ants 316. The castle, of which there are scarcely
any remains, stood in a hollow : its history, and the
name of its founder, are alike involved in obscurity.
COED Y CYMMER.] — This irregular, and scattered,
though populous village, within two miles of Mer-
thyr Tydvil, is indebted for its origin to the estab-
lishment of extensive iron-works at that place. The
literal meaning of its name is " the wood at the
junction ;" that is, of the two rivers, the great and
little Taf, which unite just below the village. The
wood, however, is no longer seen ; the laud in the
neighbourhood consisting of a bleak common, with-
out a single shrub to diversify the dreary scene.
CRICKHOWELL.] — The little market-townoi Crick-
howell, anciently Crag Hywel, six miles from Aber-
gavenny, and 139 from London, is supposed to have
been built by Hywel, a prince of South Wales, in
the year 940. Its appearance, however, is not re-
markably ancient. It is pleasantly seated on a rising
ground, near the banks of the Usk. The corpora-
tion is governed by a bailiff, annually chosen, whose
chief duty is to collect the burgage rents for the lord
of the manor, and the tolls at the fairs and markets.
In the town hall, over the market place, the lord of
the manor holds his courts for the lordship of Crick-
howell ; sometimes the town hall is used as a prison.
Here are two markets every week well supplied. —
The parish church is cruciform, having a chancel,
nave, and two transepts ; named after two estates in
the neighbourhood, to which they probably once be-
longed as private chapels. The church is consider-
ably reduced in size. In 1765, the churchwardens
obtained authority to demolish its two side aisles,
to
WALES.
673
to raise money, from (lie materials, for repairing the
other part of the structure. The tower, containing
five bells, is remarkable, as being the only one in
the county surmounted by a spire. The chancel
contains some ancient monuments ; one on the south
side, exhibiting a mutilated figure of a knight, raised
to one of the Pauncefoots ; and another on the north
side, bearing two alabaster figures, the efligies of
Sir John Herbert, of Dan y Castell, and his lady.
The old custom of singing carols in the church at
cock crowing, on Christmas day, is continued here.
This church is dedicated to Edmund, King of East
Anglia, whose feast is held here regularly the Sun-
day after the 20th of November. — At the western
extremity of the town, adjoining the road to Breck-
nock, are some fine remains of a castellated mansion
of one of the Herberts of this place. — A short dis-
tance out of the town, to the eastward, stand the
ruins of the castle, venerable by the ivy which im-
bosoms them. — In the partition of Brecknockshire,
by Bernard Newmarch, the district of Crickhowell
was allotted to Sir Humphry Burghill; but whe-
ther it included the ground on which the castle
stands, is uncertain. — By marriage, this property,
including the manor and castle of Crickhowell,
passed, sometime during the reign of Henry III. to
Sir Grimbald Pauncefoot ; and it now belongs to
the Duke of Beaufort. — A little to the eastward of
Crickhowell stands Llangeney, or Llan Genau, the
church of St. Cenau ; a saint said to have been one
of the numerous family of Brychan. Amongst the
numerous miracles ascribed to this saint, are the
transmutation of the serpents which infested the
lands allotted her for her settlement into stones of
the class denominated cornu ammonia ; and com-
municating to the waters of certain springs, called
after her name, the property of investing the first of
two newly married persons who should taste it with
the rule of the house during life. -"-The ancient for-
tress of Crag, or Crug Hywel, is an intrenched
camp, of nearly a triangular form, occupying the
summit of a lofty hill about two miles north from
the town. The area, 510 feet in diameter, by 210,
is surrounded by a deep ditch, excavated out of the
solid rock. — Gwernvale, the beautiful seat of Mr.
Everest, stands at a little distance to the north-wr«t
of the town. The mansion is modem. Dr. Samuel
Croxall, the well known translator of J3-iO(>'s tables,
became possessor of this estate hy marriage. * Op-
posite to Gwernvale, adjoining the road to Breck-
j nock, formerly stood a cromlech, consisting of a
I large flat stone laid in a slanting position on five
] others placed upright in the ground, so as to form
| three sides of a parallelogram; the end facing 1he
I north being open. — A Roman remain lies within a
short distance of this spot in a field by the road
side, which once bore an inscription ; of which
TURFILII is all that is now legible, t To the north-
ward are the picturesque ruins of Tretower Castle,
the original name of which is not known. It may
be ascribed to an early period of the Normans,
when they were obliged to trust for their security
to stone walls. It seems never to have held any
considerable rank as a fortress. A branch of the
Vaughans take their name from this place. It is
now the property of the Duke of Beaufort. — Pro-
ceeding towards Brecknock, along the turnpike road,
an extensive British encampment otters itself to no-
tice. This station, on the summit of a hill between
the Usk and the road, is called Penmyarth. At a
short distance, to the northward, is another British
remain of a similar nature ; and, on the top of' a
hill called Trevil Glas, on the opposite side of the
river, are some sepulchral heaps of loose stones. —
From a pass in the hills, called Bwlch, on the
Brecknock road, are some views, of extraordinary
picturesque beauty. — At the foot of the hill, on the
Brecknock side, stands Buckl.ind, the seat of
Thyune Howe Gwynne, Esq. which takes its name
from that of a considerable district, once celebrated
for its deer. Near this mansion is Newton, which,
though now a farm-house, was once a celebrated
seat of the Vaughan family.— On the opposite bank
of the Usk, is Maesraawr, the seat of George Lewis,
Esq.
GLASBURY.] — The church of this village, four
miles from Brynllys, on the banks of the Wye, is in
• Radnorshire; a small tract of land at this place, on
1 the southern side of the river, pertaining to that
county. To the south-eastward, lies Tregoed, a seat
* Samuel Croxall, horn al Walton upon Thames, received
the first part <>f his education at Eton, and was afterwards a stu-
dent of St. John's, Cambridge. He obtained several valuable
church preferments and lucrative offices ; and probably would
have been made a bishop, had not an avowal of his whig sen-
timents given offence. His theological writings consist of some
single sermons ; an Introduction to the Stu<ly of the Old Tes-
tament, under the title of Scripture Politics, designed for young
persons; and a poetical work, in a dramatic form, intituled
The Fair Circassian. He wrote also some political pieces, bolh
in prose and verse, which, being grounded on temporary mat-
ters, have perished with the p irties and the subjects to which
they owed their birth. The work which has chiefly contri-
buted to the preservation of his name, is his version of jEsop's
Fables, to winch he added some pertinent moral inferences.
He died on the 13th February, 1752, at an advanced age.
^ Jones, the county historian, ascribes its fall to the follow-
VOL. iv. — NO. 189.
ing circumstance: " Some strollers, who had seen the stone as
they passed, conceiving that a penny might be made of it,
applied to the farmer at Ty vn y wlacl, (the farm in which it is
situated,) to know if such, describing it, was nol found some-
where in the neighbourhood, pretending to be deeply read in
the Book of Fate, and that by their art they had discovered that
under it, at the depth of one yard, was concealed an immense
treasure, which no person could remove or possess, but the oc-
cupier of the land whereon it stood. Being answered in the
affirmative, a few circles, crosses, and triangles were drawn, and
magical words mumbled, when the attempt was directed to be
made precisely at twelve at noon, with the strongest assurance
of success. The poor people were credulous enough to be-
lieve them ; and in the mean time, as the conjurors had pro-
vided a fortune for the farmer, while he and his servants were
employed in the work, they took care of their own, by remov-
ing every thing valuable and portable out of the house."
SB »f
G74
WALES.
of Lord Viscount Hereford ; and Gwernfed, the
property of Colonel Wood. Near the church, on
an eminence, are «ome remains of a British encamp-
ment.
HAY.] — The market-town of Hay, in Welsh,
Tregelli, 15 miles from Brecknock, is pleasantly
situated on an eminence on the southern bank of the
Wye. It consists chiefly of one street, running in
the direction of the river, with a short cross street,
near the eastern end ; just beyond which it is divided
from Herefordshire by the Dulais, which here dis-
charges its waters into the Wye. The houses are
mostly of the inferior class. Hay is a borough by
prescription ; hut it possesses no privileges ; and
the bailiff, whose official duties are to receive the
tolls at the fairs and markets, is annually appointed
by the lord, of the manor, to whom they pertain, and
who holds a court leet here annually. The border
situation of the town, in a rich agricultural district,
affords it considerable advantages as a mart for in-
land commerce. Its cattle fairs are well attended ;
and a woollen manufactory has been established,
which is of great advantage. The old church, so
late as 1684, was used as a school house ; and some
of the walls yet remain, though in a most dilapi-
dated state. There was anciently a chapel in the
suburb. The present church is delightfully situated
on a precipitous bank of the Wye. It is small, and
contains no object of curiosity, excepting a silver
chalice, inscribed " Our Lady Paris of the Haie,"
•which is of ancient date. In the church-yard isa stona
figure, now much defaced, which is appropriated by
the inhabitants to their celebrated townswoman Maud
de St. Wallery, the wife of William de Breos, vul-
garly called Moll Walbee ; but Mr. Jones supposes
it to have been designed for one of the priors or
monks of Brecon. — Near the church is an artificial
hill, probably the site of a small mural fortress. The
Wye is crossed near the eastern extremity of the
' town by a long bridge, partly of stone and partly of
wood. A handsome stone bridge, of seven arches,
•was destroyed in 1795, by a Hood. Camden states,
that Roman coins had been frequently dug up here ;
but there is no satisfactory evidence to shew that it
had any existence prior to the invasion of Bernard
Newmarcb. The castle, part of which still remains,
arid the walls that formerly surrounded the town,
are ascribed by tradition to Maud de St. Waleri,
called also Maud de Ilaie. The legend is thus
noticed by Jones : — " She built (say the gossips)
the castle of Hay in one night : the stones for which
she carried in her apron : while she was thus em-
ployed, a small pebble, of about nine feet long, and
one foot thick, dropped into her shoe. This siiedid
not at first regard; but in a short time finding it
troublesome, she indignantly threw it over the river
Wye, into Llowes church- yard in Radnorshire (about
three miles off) where it remains to this day, pre-
cisely in the position it fell, a stubborn memorial of !
the historical fact, to the utter confusion of all seep- |
tics aad unbelievers." — The fable of her carrying' j
; the stones, and completing the castle of Hay in one
I night, perhaps means that she collected, or rather
extorted from her tenants, a sum sufficient for the
j purpose in a very short time. — This town has fre-
j quently suffered from the fury of invading armies.
j The castle, destroyed in 1231, by Henry II. was re-
paired by Henry HI. It was ,taken in the year
1265 by Prince Edward, with the custle of Breck-
nock, and some other places. Llewelyn ap Jorwerth
took and burnt it in 1264, and its final destruction,
as a place of defence, is ascribed to Owen Glyndwr,
in the reign of Henry IV.
LLANAFAN VAWR.] — In.the church-yard of Liana-
fan Vawr, or the church of St. Avan, is a stone
J "thus inscribed to the saint's memory : " Hie Jacet
Sanctus Avanus, Episcopus." According to Giral-
dus, a remarkable miracle was performed here in the
reign of Henry I ; — " the lord of the castle of Rad-
nor, in the adjoining territory of Buelt, had entered
the church of St. Avan, and without sufficient caution
or reverence had passed the night there with his
hounds. Arising early in the morning, according to
the custom of hunters, he found his hounds mad,
and himself struck blind. After a long, dark, and
tedious existence, he was conveyed to Jerusalem,
happily taking care that his inward sight should not
in a similar manner be extinguished ; and there
being accoutred, and led to the field of battle on
horseback, he made a spirited attack upon the ene-
mies of the faith, and, being mortally wounded,
closed his life with honour." This is thought t»
have been the birth-place of a Welsh poet uamed
Mab y Clochyddyn, or the sexton's son, who
flourished from 1330 to 1370. Proceeding from this
place towards Brecknock, along the direct road from
Builth, the traveller reaches the barren summit of
the Eppynt hills. Continuing his route for several
miles, he descends into the vale of Honddu, and at
length arrives at Castle Madoc, a family mansion,
tile property of Mr. Hugh Price. It was built in
1588, by Mr. Thomas Powell, on the site of a cas-
tellated mansion of uncertain date. Near the house
stands an artificial mound of earth, supposed to
have been surmounted by a keep or prison. On a
hill, in this neighbourhood, are some remains of a
British intrenchment, conjectured to have been oc-
cupied by Madoc apMaernach, before Castle Madoc
house was built.
LLANDEVAILOG.] — In this village, delightfully situ-
ated on the banks of the Honddu, two miles from
Brecknock, are two relics of antiquity : one, a stone,
now forming the threshold of the church door, bear-
ing the rudoly carved letters CATVC ; the other,
a monumental stone, lying near the steeple, bearing
a representation ot a human figure, some other rude
sculpture, and an inscription in unknown charac-
ters. It has evidently been intended to mark the
grave of some chief.
LLANGATTOCK.] — This neat village, situated on the
banks of the Usk, not far from Cnckhowell, has
several genteel and ornamental residences in its
. vicinity ;
WALES.
675
vicinity; amongst which may be mentioned Glan-
wysc, the seat of Frederick Fredericks, Esq.; Llan-
gattock Place, formerly the residence of Admiral
(jell ; Dan y Park, to the eastward of the village;
and Dan y Graig, lower down the vale. Just below
opens tlie little romantic vale of Clydach, in which
are some iron-works. The Brecknock canal is car-
ried over the river Clydach by an aqueduct eighty
feet in height above the level of the stream. Here
were two cataracts ; the lower, the water of which
lias been diverted by the rude hand of the miner,
was named" Pwll y Cwn, or the Dogs' Pool ; the
upper fall, which yet remains, and is called y Pistyll
Mawr, or the Great Cascade, is romantically im-
bosomed in a luxuriant wood. — Ll:mgattock enjoys
some historical celebrity1 from the great battle fought
on the hills of Carno, in the year 728, between the
Saxons and the Welsh ; the site of which is marked
by two large collections of stones, or carnau, one
of which, on being examined, was found to contain
a kist-vaeu, which is now generally understood to
indicate a place of sepulture.
LI.ANI.LEONVEL.] — In this parish, on the northern
bank of the Usk, is the mansion of Garth, formerly
a seat of the Gwynne family, but recently in the
occupation of an English farmer. In the neighbour-
ing parish of Llangammarch, is Caerau, long a seat
of the Lloyd family; and also Llxvyncadwgaii, the
paternal inheritance of the ancestor of the noble
house of Cadogan in the reign of Elizabeth. At
Caerau, which is the plural of Caer, a fortress or
intrenchmeut, is an artificial hillock, about eighteen
feet in height, and 210 iu circumference, from which
the mansion has derived its name. It is conjectured
by some, but denied by others, that as a vicinal
Roman road from Carmarthen to Chester passed this
way, a small tower of observation may have stood
upon this mound. In the unsupported opinion of
some antiquaries, this is the Butlcum Silurum of
Ptolemy. The parish of Llaogam march has given
birth to several individuals, distinguished in the
annals of literature and religion ; amongst whom
inay be mentioned, Thomas and James Howell, the
sons of Thomas Howell, curate of the parish from
the year 1576 to 1631. Thomas became bishop of
Bristol, in 1841; anil James, after the Restoration,
was appointed historiographer royal, under the reign
of Charles II. Theophihis Evans, the grandfather
of Mr. Jones, the historian of the county, was also
born here. In the adjoining parish of Llanwrtyd,
are the mineral springs already noticed ; and, a little
further up the vale, stands the pleasantly situated
mansion of Dinas, long one of the possessions of the
Lloyd family. A lofty mound of earth seems to in-
dicate the site of. a military station near the spot.
To the eastward of Dinas, is another old mansion
called Llwynmadoek, the property of David Thomas,
Esq. Further north, at the extremity of the county,
are some large stones, placed irregularly in the
ground, ami supposed to commemorate some great
battle. They have given, to the plain on which they
stand, the name of Rhossaith Maen, or the seven
8tone common ; and there is a place in the neigh-
bourhood/called Rhos y Beddau, or the common
of the graves.
LLANSAINTFREAD.]— Near the church of Lansaint-
fread, or St. Bridget on Usk, stands Scethrog House,
the residence of John Jones, Esq. one of the oldest
seats in this part of the county. The present man-
sion, however, is of modern erection ; the old one,
called the Tower, being occupied by a farmer. The
place derives its name from Brochwel Yscythrog',
one of the grandsons of Brychan. On the road side,
near Scethrog, is a stone of a cylindrical form, about
three feet and a half in height above the ground,
bearing an inscription, of which the word VICTORINI,
in rude characters, is alone legible. Another relic
of ancient times in the adjoining parish of Lan-
hamlwch, on the top of a hill called Maunest, is
Ty Illtyd, or Illtyd's House ; the construction of
which is of the simplest fashion. Two large flat
stones are placed parallel to each other, upright ia
the ground, leaving an interval of about four feet ;
a third of a similar kind is placed at right angles with
these, and reaching from one to the other. Over the
whole is laid, in a sloping position, a large flat stone,
about eight feet in length, which forms the roof, ele-
vated about four feet from the earth. On one of the
side stones are several rude figures, crosses, &c. of
antique form and sculpture. The traditionary legend
of the neighbourhood states this to have been the
religious retreat or hermitage of the famous saint
whose name it bears, where he is supposed to have
improved his sanctity by austere discipline and mor-
tification ; but it is evidently nothing more than a
British cromlech In this neighbourhood, is Peter-
stone, the seat of Thomas llarcourt Powell, Esq. a
handsome mansion, delightfully situated on the
banks of the Usk. On the opposite shore, are some
inconsiderable remains of Penkeliy Castle, respect-
ing th« foundation of which, history is silent. The
estates have been successively lieM by the Mortimers,
Despencers, Staffotds, Devereux, and Herberts,
and are now chiellv the property of Thynne Howe
Gwynne, Esq. of Buckland.
LLANSPYUDYU.] — This interesting little village is
situated on the banks of the Usk, about two miles
from Brecknock. The church, a neat and commo-
dious building, surrounded by aged yew trees, stands
close to the public road. Aulach, or bis son Bry-
clian, is supposed to be commemorated by a stone
in the church-yard. This has been the burying
place ot several families of distinction.
LLANVILLO.] — In this parish, between Brecknock
and Brynllys, on the summit of a hill called Allt-
fillo, is a large British encamp;nent, tlie area of
which, of an elliptical form, measures t>21 feet by
138. On one side it was protected by a ditch ; and
on the other side the precipitous brow of the hill
formed its natural defence. Its origin is unknown.
LLYSWEN.] — This parish, situated on the banks of
the Wye, between Hay and Builtb, derives its name,
w hich
076
WALES.
which signifies the white or fair court, from a palace
of the princes of South Wales, which anciently
stood here. — Higher up the vale, eight miles from
Hay, stands Llaugoed Castle, the seat of John
Macnamara, Esq.
PENPOTST.] — At Penp'ont, five miles from Breck-
nock, is Penpont House, a seat of the Williams
family. The approach to the mansion is distin-
guished by its picturesque display of mountain
scenery. In its immediate neighbourhood is Aber-
camlais, situated at the junction of the Usk with the
little river Camlais. This is a seat of another
branch of the Williamses of Penpont and Aberbran.
Its owners have, through several generations, been
clergymen ; and, indeed, the place is well adapted
to the philosophic and dignified, but hospitable re-
tirement of a clerical life. — A little beyond Abercam-
lais, a road branches off to the left, which leads to
the small village of Devynock, and thence to Blaenau
Cwm Taweand Ystradgynlais. Sir John Davy, of
Aldermanbury in London, who died about the year
1624, devised a sum of money for the erection of a
school, and the maintenance of a master at Devy-
nock, for teaching the elementary branches of
English education. — On a hill, at some distance,
nearly adjoining the road from Ystradgynlais to
Trecastle, is a druidical circle, called Cerig duon,
or the black stones. — Rliyd y Briw Castle, or Devy-
nock Castle, a little below the village, occupying a
small eminence at the confluence of the Senni with
the Usk, and on the western bank of the former,
appears never to have been of any great extent, or
strength. — lu this neighbourhood, is the mansion-
house of Llwyncyntefn, charn/mgiy situated on an
elevated knoll which overlooks the Usk, and com-
mands a prospect of great extent, and beauty. It was,
for many generations, the seat of the Penrys, who
traced their descent to Elystan Gtodrydd, Prince of
Ferrogs ; but it now belongs to the Rev. John
Williams, oi Aborcamlais.
PEYTVN GWYN.] — In the parish of Garshbrengz,
on the banks of the Llonddu, opposite Llandevailog,
is Pcytyn tiwyu, which, though now of no import-
ance, enjoys some celebrity, as the early residence,
if not the birth-place, of Sir David Gam ; who, as I
lias been stated in a former sheet, basely attempted !
the assassination of Owen Glyndwr. — In this neigh-
bourhood, to the westward, is Pennoyre House, an
elegant modern mansion, the seat of the Rev. Thomas
Watkins.
TALGARTH] — The little town of Talgarth, which
gives name to a parish, and to a hundred, is situated
10 miles from Brecknock. Its name, literally the
front of the hill, is derived from the situation of the
place, at one of the ends of the Black mountains,
•which stretch into Herefordshire. It is a borough by
prescription, but its privileges have ceased. The
parish church is a substantial edifice ; the tower of
which forms a conspicuous object from most parls
of the surrounding country. A small tower, or
turret, mentioned by Leland, remains, and proba-
bly was, as he states, designed merely for a prison.
— Porthaml, an ancient seat of the Vnughans, is in
the vicinity- The meaning of the name is not, how-
ever, as Leland tratihl ties it, " the gate of plenty,"
but " many-gated," or " of many gutej." The
embattled wail and the gateway are still standing,
the latter constituting an entrance into a farm- yard.
Sir William Vaughan, of this house, was the first
sheriff for the county, after the introduction of the
English laws. The property now belongs to the
Earl of Ashburnham, whose family acquired it by
marriage. Two miles to the eastward of the town,
in a field called Croeslechau, is a remarkable crom-
lech. A hawthorn has sprung up at one end of it
so near as to grow against the covering stone, and
gradually, by its increasing bulk, to raise it some
inches above its original seat. — In this neighbour-
hood, upon the hill called the Gader, or the Chair,
part of that range of hills usually called the Black
mountains, are stone circles, evidently druidical. — •
On the summit of a lofty hill, cemmanding a pass
on the rond towards Crickhowell, once stood Dinas
Castle, of which only a few broken fragments of
the walls remain. This post was of some import-
ance miring tne domination of the Lords Marchers,
and had extensive territorial dependencies. Owen
Glendwr having led a formidable hostile armament
into the county, the inhabitants probably thought it
good policy so far to demolish the fortress, as to
render it of no service to the invader, as a place of
defence, in case it fell into his hands.
TRECASTLU.] — This ancient decayed village, 11
miles from Brecknock, on the road to Llandovery,
is sasd to have once been a considerable borough ;
and, in Li land's time, the ruins of a castle were
visible; a circumstance which 'Seems to be indicated
by the name Tre-Castell, or Castle Town, lu
comparatively modern times, however, Trecastle
was considered as a part of the little town of Lly-
wel, which it probably adjoined, though it is now
about hull a mile distant. It is one of the wards
ot the borough of Brecknock. The house, now an
inn, was anciently the mansion of the Gwyns, who
lived here in great magnificence. Mr. Jones states,
that, according to tradition, " the whole ot' the wet
meadows between Trecastle and Llywel, were con-
verted into a fish-pond, or, as it niight with pro-
priety be termed, a lake, whereon the iamily were
rowed on Sundays and holidays, to the church at
Llywel, in a magnificent pleasure boat." Some
years ago, a stone was discovered on Trecastle
mountain, which, from an inscription which it bore,
was probably a Roman miiiary.
YSTRADFELTE ] - At the entrance of the enclosed
country, on the Neath road, stands the little village
of Ystradlelte, composed of miserable cottages, with
a small dilapidated dmrch. An artificial mound of
earth, close to the village, may have formed a Roman
station of observation. The neighbourhood abounds
with interest for the tourist and topographer. Fol-
lowing the course of the river Mellte, from the vil-
lage,
WALES.
077
Iftge, half a mile distant, is a remarkable cavern,
called Forth Ogof, or the mouth of the cave, whicl
the river enters, and proceeds eight or nine hundred
yards. When the water is low the cavern may easily
be entered, and, by torches, explored to a consi-
derable distance. The entrance is about twenty feet
Ligh, by forty-five wide ; but the interior spread;
into a large apartment, the roof whereof is orna-
mented with stalactites, and calcareous concretions,
which, when light is introduced, produce a pleas-
ing effect. In its passage through the cavern, the
river is precipitated from a considerable height into
a deep pool, and the roaring of its waters in this
dark abyss increases the awe which the place natu-
rally inspires. The chief obstacles to the examina-
tion of the interior are large masses of broken rocks ;
in consequence of which it has never been wholly ex-
plored. After the river has emerged into day-light,
two cascades, of peculiar grandeur, present them-
selves. A fine view of the first is commanded from
a small promontory near the junction of the Hepste
river with the Mellte on the eastern side of the
valley. The Hepste, which joins the Mellte from
the eastward, just below, presents another of this
class of objects, called the Cil Hepste Water Fall.
A little above the confluence of the two streams, in
a deep and almost inaccessible valley, this river is
precipitated with great force in one wide and un-
broken sheet, from a level rock nearly fifty feet in
height, into a deep stone bason, which, from the
constant agitation of its waters, exhibits the appear-
ance of an immense boiling cauldron. The most
remarkable circumstance belonging to this fall is,
that the only path from one side of the valley to the
other, lies behind the cataract, and between it and
the rock. Just above the level of the pool a step or
natural ledge of about three feet in width, which
constitutes the road, runs across the channel, and
connects the opposite banks. Over this, the water
throws itself in a curvilinear direction, presenting
a natural roof capable of affording to the traveller a
temporary shelter from the rain." — Southward, the
little river Sychryd, running parallel to the Hepste,
forms the boundary between the counties of Breck-
nock and Glamorgan. The point of land formed
by the Sychryd, and the united rivers Mellte and
Hepste, called Craig y Ddinas, constitutes astrik-
ing feature in the scenery of this neighbourhood.
It is a bold precipitous limestone rock of consider-
able elevation ; at the foot of which the Mellte is
crossed by a rude stone bridge, whence a narrow
road conducts to Pontneath Vaughan, or PontNedd
fychan, a village a mile farther down the vale, partly
in Brecknockshire, and partly in Glamorganshire,
the two counties being here divided by the little river
Nedd. In its vicinity is a bold cataract, on the
Pyrddin, a stream which descends into this vale
from the westward, forming for some distance the
boundaries of the county of Brecknock, and uniting
with the Nedd above Pontneath Vaughan. The
common name of the tall is Scwd Einon, Gam, or
VOL. iv, — NO. 189.
lame Einon's waterfall. On descending from tho
adjacent meadows into the secluded vale in which
it is situated, a black precipice presents itself,
scooped by nature into a hollow, forming the seg-
ment of a circle, or rather, exhibiting the appear-
ance of a dark and lofty amphitheatre. " The right
side of the chasm," observes Warren, " looking up
it, is fringed and adorned with curious and beautiful
trees, such as the mountain ash, willow, &c. whilst
the left presents a face of rude and naked rock. In
the centre is seen the river, which, after tearing
through a gloomy narrow glen, throws itself from
an elevation of seventy or eighty feet, in one grand
unbroken sheet of water. The beauty of the scene
is heightened by one little accidental circumstance
— an oak, as if planted purposely for decoration,
throws its waving head over the stream at the very
point whence it is precipitated down the face of the
rock, and adds much to the picturesque effect."
There are in this neighbourhood so many objects
worthy the inspection of the traveller, that the best
plan for him to pursue, is to take up his quarters
at Pontneath Vaughan, where he may easily procure
a guide to accompany him to them all. — The road
to Swansea, which branches off to the right, from
the Pontneath Vaughan turnpike, about six miles
from Brecknock, is only a parish way, impracticable
for carriages. About six miles from the point of
separation, it begins to descend into a sequestered
and romantic region, at the upper extremity of the
vale of Tawe, where the river of that name, which
joins the sea at Swansea, has its source. Ystrad-
gynlais, the parish in which it is situated, is next
described.
YSTRADGYNLAIS.]— Ystradgynlais, or the vale of
Gynlais, or Gynllys, is so named from a prince of
Gwent, who married Gwladis, one of the daughters
of Brychan, who is supposed to have received this
district as her marriage portion. The church, a
small edifice, pleasantly situated near the banks of
the river, is surrounded by a few scattered houses,
forming a village. The chief family mansion in this
vale, within the limits of Brecknockshire, is Ynis-
kedwin, situated on a small plain near the confluence
of the Tawe and Twrch. The name is derived from
Ynis, an island, and Edwin, or Odin, a British
chieftain, who overran South Wales. Ynisked-
win, which has long been the property of a branch
of the Aubrey family, descended from the Aubreys
of Abercynrig, in this county, belongs to the Rev.
Fleming Gough, a descendant of this family in the
female line. — Abercraf, another seat in this parish,
las long been con-verted into a farm-house. It was
[br-merly a residence of the Gwyns. — The Swansea
canal penetrates about four miles into the Breck-
nockshire part of this vale ; and, since the opening
of this communication with the sea, the aspect and
character of the neighbourhood have greatly changed.
Collieries have been opened in every direction ; iron
ore has been raised, and smelted at the furnace of
Yniskedvvin ; and the'produce of the country, both
8 i »a
078
WALES.
in its raw and manufactured state, conveyed in
considerable quantities by the canal to Swansea.
The hills, to the eastward, contain several Carned-
dau, and a few encampments on a small scale ; to
the westward, on the borders of Ystradfelltc, the
Roman road pervades the ridge of hills, which sepa-
rates this vale from that of Neath. — In this vicinity
is a very beautiful waterfall, called Scwd yr Hen
Rhyd, on the river Llech, which joins the Tawc
from the eastward some distance above Ystradgyn-
lais. — In ascending the vale of Ystradgynlais, the
mountains, in some places, as they approach the
river, terminate in steep precipices, exhibiting the
appearance of a natural wall. In one of these, on
the eastern side, observes Mr. Jones, " is a hermit-
age, which, though not large enough for a banquet-
ing-roona, is more commodious than that of St.
Ilityd at Llangammarch. It is erroneously called
here Eglwys Cradoc, Cradoc's Church : this was
the cell in which it is supposed Gunleus, Prince of
Glewissig, died in the arms of his son Cattwc or
Cadicus. The son gave the name to the cave, as
the father did to the valley. This hermitage is
chiefly natural, but it seems to have been in some
measure enlarged by the industrious but rude efforts
of human labour. It is about six feet high, flat at
top, and three or four yards square, if this was
the saint's summer residence only, his taste cannot
be impeached ; if he remained there during the
winter, his condition must have been truly deplo-
rable.
CARDIGANSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.] — The county of Cardi-
gan, by 'Latin writers called Ceretica, but by the
Welsh Ceredigion, Caredigion, or Swycld Aber
Teivi, is bounded on the north by Merionethshire ;
on the north-east by Montgomeryshire ; on the east
by Radnorshire and Brecknockshire; on the south
by Carmarthenshire ; on the south-west by Pem-
brokeshire ; and on the west by St. George's Chan-
nel. It is about 50 miles in length, from north-east
to south-west; about 20 miles in breadth; and about
100 in circumference. l(s superficial contents were
estimated, by Cary, at 377,600 acres ; but the offi-
cial returns give 465,040. — The sea has made great
encroachments on this county, even within the
memory of man ; and, according to tradition, a
Well inhabited district, stretching far into the Bristol
Channel, has been overwhelmed and lost. After
storms, the trunks of whole groves or forests of
trees are frequently discovered on the shore between
the river Dee and Aoerystwytb. The shore may in-
deed be said to resemble an extensive forest, cut
down, but black and hard as ebony. The air and
soil of' this county are greatly varied. In the south-
ern and western parts, which are more level than
Wales is in general, the air is miid and temperate,
and the land is fertile ; but the northern and eastern
parts, being a continued ridge of mountains, are
Comparatively bleak and barren. In the worst parts
of the county, however, there is abundance of pas-
ture for tbe breeding of vast numbers of sheep and
black cattle, so that Cardigan is deemed the nursery
of cattle for all England south of Trent. — The
chief river in this county is the Teivi, which springa
out of a lake called Llyn Teivi, situated near the
highest eminence of the mountainous region on the
north-eastern side of the county. At first, it wan-
ders over the rocks, apparently without a channel,
till it reaches Ystrad Flwr ; then it runs regularly
within its banks, receiving the tribute of many minor
streams, passing Tregaron and Lampeter, and a
few miles below Cardigan it falls into the Bristol
Channel. The tide flows as far as Llechryd bridge,
to which it is navigable for barges ; and ships, of
about 200 tons burden, ascend as high as Cardigan
bridge. The beaver was anciently an inhabitant of
this river. The salmon of the Teivi is particularly
fine. The British coracles, or boats of wicker,
covered with hides, are still used on this and some
of the other rivers of the principality. The Rheidol
rises on the south-west side of Plinlimmon ; and,
running south and south-west, it falls into the Bris-
tol Channel. The Ystwyth, which has its source
near the north-eastern extremity of the county, on
the borders of Montgomeryshire, also falls into the
Bristol Channel, a little below Aberystwyth. The
Towey likewise rises in this county. The Aeron,
the Arth, the Gwyre, the Clarach, the Levy, the
Elan, the Claer-wen, &c. are streams" of inferior
consideration. — This county contains many lakes,
but none of them of great extent. On the summit
of the chain of hills by which this county is divided
from Radnorshire, is a cluster of lakes, six in num-
ber, of which Llyn Teivi is the principal ; and, be-
sides these, there are several small lakes scattered
over the highlands in different parts of the county.
The northern districts of this county, as already
intimated, are very mountainous ; and detached
hills of considerable elevation occur in different
parts. Universally destitute of wood, they present
a Meak and dreary aspect. That this county was
formerly well wooded, is apparent from what we
have already stated, respecting the encroachments
of the sea ; but, for many years past, the quantity
of wood has been lamentably small. The flourishing
state of the plantations, however, which Mr. Johnes
had been extending, for the last thirty or forty years,
over some of the most elevated and exposed emi-
nences on the side of Plinlimmon, sufficiently evinces,
that, were other land proprietors, of mountainous
districts, actuated by a similar spirit, those hitherto
barren wastes might be converted into rich and pro-
ductive forests.
From the great inequalities of its surface, the soil
of this county, as already remarked, possesses many
varieties, particularly in the upland district, the
valleys of which are chiefly a stiff clay, with a mix-
ture of light loam. The higher grounds, in the
low-land district, are generally a light sandy loam,
varying in depth, from feur or five inches to twelve.
The
WALES.
The substratum, a slaty sort of rock, produces,
when judiciously treated, good crops of turnips,
potatoes, barley, and clover. The ground in the
valleys is very deep ; and, with some exceptions,
very dry ; yielding good crops of hay, for many
years, without surface manure, which is scarcely
ever thought of, until the land is exhausted and
becomes mossy, and then it is turned up. Wheat,
barley, and hlack oats, are the common crops of the
county. The prevailing practice of the Cardigan-
shire farmers, with respect to the variation of crops,
is of the worst kind ; yet the quality of their grain
is such, that it is sent to the circumjacent counties
for seed corn. Lime is the chief manure ; but sea-
weed, peat ashes, and farm-yard muck, are also
used. The agricultural instruments in general use
are of the worst construction ; and every where there
is a deplorable want of proper drains for carrying
off the superfluous moisture. The prices of land
vary ; but, except in the neighbourhood of the
principal towns, it seldom rises above 15s. an
acre. In the lower parts of the county, consider-
able progress has been made in the enclosure of
wastes. With the exception of new erections, the
farm buildings of this county are generally of a
miserable description ; and the cottages of the
labourers are mostly of mud. An agricultural
society was founded here, in the year 1784, from
which, and from the exertions of Mr. Johnes, and
a few other spirited individuals, considerable im-
provements have been effected. The horned cattle
are chiefly of the black kind ; but, in some parts,
those from Holland have been found to answer
better than any other. The sheep are small ; but,
by crossing with the South-down, Leicester and
Dorset breeds, they are in a state of progressive
improvement. The average weight of a fleece is
not estimated at more than two pounds. The wool
is coarse, and is manufactured chiefly for home pur-
poses. The horses, though strong and hearty,
seldom exceed 14 hands in height. The farmers,
however, are endeavouring to improve them.
Coals are scarce in this county. It has long,
however, been celebrated for its other mineral trea-
sures. In the northern parts, particularly about
Aberystwyth, several rich lead mines were disco-
vered towards the close of the 17th century, some of
•which yield silver, and the ore frequently appears
above ground. Some of the ore has been found so
rich in silver as to produce 70 or 80 ounces per
ton. As early as the time of Queen Elizabeth, a
company of Germans wrought some mines here to
great advantage. Sir Hugh Middleton, also, in the
reign of James I. made a large fortune, which he
afterwards expended in conveying the New River
water to London. For some years, he cleared the
sura of 2,000/. a month out of one silver mine ; and,
after him, Mr. Bushel acquired an immense sum
by that and other mines in the county. Charles I.
allowed him to set up a mint in the castle of Aber-
ystwyth, for the convenience of paying his work-
men ; he also raado him gover 0 of the. Isto of
Lundy, to secure his shipping. For th-.'Sf privi-
leges, Mr. Bushel, on the bre.ikinij out of the civit
wars, made a munificent return to lus royal bone-
factor, by clothing the whole of his army, urn! £ur-
nfeuing him with a loan of 40,000/. He also raised
a regiment of luirse amongst his minors, and main-
tained it to the end of the contest nthis own charge,
At a subsequent period, a company of mine adven-
turers in this county, were, for a time, vesy success-
ful ; but, some disputes arising among the partners^
the prosperity of the concern declined, and has
never been fully restored. The mines now in work
are numerous, but not upon a large scale. — The
mountains in the neighbourhood of Plinlimmon are-
principally composed of argillaceous sthistus and'
slate. The inclination of the strata is various, and ir-
regular. Large veins of a white spar, called Thungry
spar rider, very hard and glossy, frequently occur.
The name of this county is evidently derived from
that of Cardigan, its chief town ; the etymology of
which has been by some referred to Caradoc, Ca-
ratach, or Caractacus, the celebrated British com-
mander, who is thought to have held this territory
under his dominion ; by others to Caredig ab Ma-
elgwn Gwynedd ; but, more correctly, by others, to
Caredig, the son of Cunedda, a chieftain of North
Wales, who distinguished himself by his services in
expelling what have been termed the Irish Scot*
from thence about the middle of the 5th century,
and received this province, then called Tyno Coeh,
or the Red Valley, as his reward. What is now
Cardiganshire formed anciently a province of the
Demetffi. Respecting the progress of the Romans
in this county, history is silent, but several vestiges
of that people are visible within its limits. Its his-
tory, with that of Carmarthenshire, from the de-
parture of the Romans, is, from its obscurity, ex-
tremely unimportant.
The present divisions of the county are the fol-
lowing five hundreds : — Gencur Glyn, liar, (upper
and lower divisions) Moyddyn, Pcnnarth, Troe-
dyroyr. These are subdivided into 65 parishes ;
having four petty sessions, and 24 acting county
magistrates. It has one borough (Cardigan) and
four other market towns : Aberystwyth, Lampeter,
Llanbadanvawr, and Tregaron. Its population,
in 1700, was 25,300; in 1750, 32,000; in 1801,
41,100 ; and, in 1811, 50,260 ; or, allowing for ab-
sentees, 52,000. Coarse stockings and flannels are
almost the only manufactures of this county ; the
commerce of which is also unimportant. The lead,
produced by the mines in the upper district, forms
its chief export : this, with wheat, oats, butter, &c.
is transmitted to the Bristol market. It is gra-
tifying, however, to observe, that the facilities for
commercial enterprise afforded by this county, have,
of late years, been greatly increasing. Cardigan,
Aberystwyth, and some other places on the coast,
have convenient ports for vessels of small burden.
The roads are generally good, and the communica-
tions
G80
WALES.
tions between the different towns are in a much
improved state.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
ABERAERON.]— This little town and port, now
Hindi frequented by small coasting vessels, has,
within these few years, been much improved by the
re-erecting of a pier at the expense of the Rev.
Mr. Gwynne, of Tygly.ii. A market has also been
established here. Near the town are some remains
of an ancient fortress, called Castell Cadwgan, sup-
posed to have been erected by a prince of that name,
in the 12th century. — Ascending the vale of the
Aeron, from this place, Llanerchayron House, an
elegant modern mansion, in a well wooded demesne
near the river, presents itself on the left. A little
higher up is a small park belonging to this estate ;
and, on the opposite side of the vale, stands Tyglyn
Issaf, the seat of the Rev. Alban Thomas Jones
Gwynne, a descendant of Alban Thomas, Esq. of
Newcastle Emlyn. Beyond Tyglin, on the same
side of the river, stands Plas Cillennyn, formerly a
seat of the Vaughan family, but now occupied as a
farm-house. Higher up the vale, on the other side
of the Aeron, stands Ystrad House, a plain but neat
edifice, aspiring neither to magnificence nor ele-
gance, some time the residence of the Davieses of
Llwydsiac. Llwydsiac, the ancient mansion of the
estate, a mile to the eastward, was formerly the
residence of one of the numerous families of the
name of Lloyd. The old house has been pulled
down, and a neat farm house erected near the site.
In the parish of Ystrad is an ancient entrenchment;
and, in one of its fields, is an antique monumental
stone', ornamented with Runic knots. Green Grove,
another seat in this delightful vale, belongs to John
Vaughan, Esq. Two miles beyond Aberaeron is
Wern Fewydd, the property of Colonel Lloyd. —
The Earl of Richmond, on his way to Bosworth,
slept here. On the other side of the road is Noyadd
Llanarth.
ABERYSTWYTH.] — The market-town of Aberys-
twyth, 203 miles from London, is entered from the
eastward by a stone bridge of nine arches, thrown
across the Rheidol. — This town is pleasantly situ-
ated on an elevated bank, having the Rheidol on
one side, and on the other the Bay of Cardigan. It
is the most populous place in the county ; and hav-
ing become a fashionable resort for sea-bathing, the
houses are rapidly multiplying. In isll, the num-
ber of houses wa* 477, besides 26 building ; and (lie
population was 2-264. The general appearance of
the houses is respectable ; and the new erections,
•which are of stone, aspire to considerable neatness
and occasionally to elegance. A handsome Town
Hall stands in the principal street ; and underneath
is a covered market. Here are two good inns ; and
the lodging houses are numerous and convenient. —
The bathing is good, and considerable pains have
been taken to add to the accommodation of visitors
by the formation of pleasant walks iu the outskirts>
particularly on the site of the castle, which com-
mands an extensive sea view. — Aberystwyth, a con-
tributory borough to Cardigan, was first incorpo-
rated by Edward I. and is governed by a mayor,
recorder, and common council. Here is no manu-
facture entitled to notice : but a considerable coast-
ing trade is carried on with Liverpool, Bristol, &c.
The herring fishery of this place was once of some
importance. The harbour is not very commodious,
but is capable of great improvement, both as to
capacity and depth. It admits, during spring tides,
of ships of about two hundred tons burden. The
number of ships belongfng to the port is stated by
Dr. Meyrick, in his History of Cardigan, at 210,
the tonnage 8120 ; and the number of seamen em-
ployed in the trade 762. — The streets of this town
are tolerably well laid out, and paved with the
stones supplied in abundance from the shore. — The
extensive quarries surrounding the town, from which
builders are amply supplied with slate and .stone,
furnish the means of erecting additional accommo-
dations with great facility. The suburbs are, by
nature, fertile, and exhibit all the variegated charms
of hill and dale, wood and water. The castle, of
which there now remains little more than a confused
heap of ruins, is still one of the most striking ob-
jects of attention. It is stated to have been origin-
ally founded by Gilbert le Strongbow, son of Ri-
chard de Clare, in the reign of Henry I. A. D.
1107 ; and to have been also the residence of Cad-
walader. During the Welsh wars, it was deemed a
fortress of the first consequence ; and even so- late
as the civil wars of Charles, it was regarded as a
place of considerable strength. Cromwell, from a
battery erected on Pendinas-hill, a mount immedi-
ately opposite the site of the castle, bombarded this
ancient pile, and in a few days succeeded in demo-
lishing the works of many years. Ever since, it
has continued in a state of decay.— -Meyrick states
this castle to have been situated on a rock, jutting
into the sea, and having a most romantic appear-
ance. Its situation was well chosen, before the in-
vention of gunpowder made elevated places of more
consequence to protect the town from invasion by
sea. — On the north-west is part of a tower about
forty feet high, and an arched door-way is still pre-
served. A round tower is also existing. Another
tower has been repaired, and converted into a kind
of observatory. — Round the hill on which it stands,
various walks have been cut out ami gravelled ,
near which, Mr. Uvedale Price, of Poxley Hall,
Herefordshire, has erected a singularly handsome
building, for his summer residence: it is in the
Gothic style, and castellated form, consisting of
three octagon towers, with a balcony near the sea.
The remains of the castle, and the ground on which
they stand, belonged to the lato Colonel Johnes, of.
Hafod ; in whose lifetime a lease of the castle-
ground was granted to a Mr. Probert, of Shrews-
bury, who has permitted it to be converted into a
public
WALES.
681
public promenade. — The beach north of the castle,
near which the several bathing machines are in use,
is composed of loose stone and pebble of various
sizes and colours. Hence the water, from being
less impregnated with sand, or disturbed by the
influx of the tide, more particularly in rainy and
tempestuous weather, is freed from impurities ; and,
in mild weather, at the distance of several feet from
the surface, the bottom is clearly discernible to the
eyes of the bather. The church was, in the year
1787, erected within the precincts of the castle, by
subscription. It is a plain unadorned structure, in
length from east to west, sixty feet ; and in breadth,
twenty-six. It is separated from the walks and
ground about the castle by a stone wall, erected by
the inhabitants: The morning service is delivered
in the English language, the afternoon in Welsh ;
and, during the summer months, prayers are again
read, and service performed in English. The gal-
lery, at the west end of the church, was built at the
sole expense of Mrs. Margaret Pryse, in 1790. —
Here are meeting-houses, or chapels, for Baptists,
Independents, Wesleyan, or Arminian Methodists,
Whitfieldian, or Calvinistic Methodists, and Jump-
ers : the last, said to be more numerous than any
sect in Wales, frequently excite the curiosity of
strangers. They justify the custom of jumping
from the example of David, who danced before the
ark ; and of the lame man restored by our Saviour
at the gate of the temple, who leaped for joy. The
practice, however, is by no means so prevalent, or
so generally adopted, as heretofore. The bathing
machines are on the same plan as those of Swansea.
Here are warm sea water baths ; besides which Na-
ture has supplied a chalybeate spring, in its virtues
resembling the waters of Tunbridge. The mines
in the vicinity of Aberystwyth, are Cluernog,
Cwmsymlog, and Cwmystwyth. The manners of
the inhabitants have improved from their intercourse
with strangers. Ship-building has been carried on
with all the spirit of emulation and industry that
could be expected from such resources as are here
afforded. A Custom House was erected here about
the year 1773, near the beach, the business having
been removed from the port of Aberdyvi. A The-
atre has either been recently built, or is yet in con-
templation ; and a race course is also talked of.
Here is a good grammar-school, with other semi-
naries. Besides a circulating library, of many hun-
dred volumes, which are let out to read on the usual
terms, there is a subscription reading-room, regu-
larly supplied with London and provincial news-
papers, &c. The river Ystwyth is crossed by a
romantic bridge, from which there is a fine view up
the vale. Here are some remains of an ancient
fortress, called Llanychaiarn Castle ; and, a short
d stance higher up the vale, on the southern bank of
the Ystwyth, stands the mansion of Aberllolwyn,
belonging to John Bowen, Esq. Carrog is an
ancient residence on the left of the road, a few miles
beyond Llanllychaiarn. Not far from this house, in
VOL. iv. — NO. 190.
a field adjoining the road, are two large stones
standing upright in the ground, forming part of
some ancient monument. A little farther on stood
formerly the castellated mansion of Moel-ifor, the
ancient seat of the Gwyn family. Nine miles from
Aberystwyth, on the banks of the little river Gwyre,
and near its junction with the sea, stands the village
of Llanrhystyd, which comprises only a few indif-
ferent cottages, but is thought to have been at one
time the seat of a monastic institution. There is, in
the parish, a farm-house called Mynachty, the Welsh
name for a monastery. Llanrhystyd Castle is sup-
posed to be the same with Dinerth Castle, but its
site is not ascertained. This village was invaded by
the Danes in 098, during a marauding expedition
along this coast, where they committed great devas-
tation, and obliged Prince Meredydd to purchase
their departure at a heavy expense. Near the vil-
lage stands Ystrad Teilo, the property of Mr.
Lloyd, of Mabus. From Llanrhystyd a road turns
off to the eastward, which leads to Cardigan, through
Lampeter. At a short distance on the left, is Mabus,
the seat of John Lloyd, Esq. ; who is also the owner
of Dale Castle, near the entrance of Milford Haven.
Six miles from Llanrhysted, the road passes over a
lofty mountain called Mynydd Tri-chrug, or three
hills, from three tumuli, or barrows, which lie near
the summit. Descending from this elevation it
passes the little village of Trefilan, situated at the
foot of the mountain in the vale of Aeron. Near
the road, on the left, a lofty tumulus indicates the
site of Trefilan Castle. Talsarn, a small village,
nearly adjoins ; and close by is Llanllyr, where
there was once a religious establishment. Re-
turning towards Llanrhystyd, and proceeding to-
wards Cardigan, the first place is Llansantffraid, a
poor village, but having a respectable church, in a
delightful situation near the coast. The village of
Aberarth, or Llanddewi Aberarth, a few miles far-
ther on, at the junction of the river Arth with the
sea, is one of the neatest and best built in the county.
At some distance above the village in the vale of the
Arth, but in the adjoining parish of Llanbadarn-lach,
lies Mynachty, late the seat of A. T. Gwynne,
Esq.
CARDIGAN.] — Cardigan, called in Welsh Aber
Teivi, the metropolis of the county, 37 ini!c>s from
Aberystwyth, and 235 from London, is pleasantly
situated on a gentle eminence on tho northern bank
of the Teivi, a few miles above its junction with
the sea. Its distant appearance is prepossessing ;
it contains several good houses ; and, altogether, it
is a very respectable town. The Town Hall, in
which the county assizes are holdrn twice in a year,
is a handsome edifice, built in 1764. A new county
gaol, admirably adapted for its purpose, was erected
here by Nash, the architect, in 1793. Lady Letretia
Cornwalli*, of Abermarlais, in Carmarthenshire,
who married John Morgan, Esq. of this town, en-
dowed the grammar-school. — The town is divided
into two principal streets : one, ascending parallel
8 K with
082
WALES.
* The Priory has acquired soine distinction from having
•been the residence of Mrs. Catharine Philips the celebrated
Orinda. She was the daughter of John Fowler, Esq. a mer-
chant in London. She was born in 1631, and married toJames
Philips, Esq. of the Priory, about 1647. Mrs. Philips \vas the
writer of several poems, and also a volume of " Letters from
Orinda to Poliarchus:" under which name was designated her
early friend and patron, Sir Charles Cottere1, under whom she
studied Italian. Having occasion to reside some time in Ire-
land on her husband's affairs, she brought out on the Dublin
stage a Translation of Corneille's Pompey, In which she had'
been assisted by the Earl of Dorset, and Waller.^ On her
return to England she went to London, where she was taken
ill of the small pox, and died in the month of June, 1664.
Her talenti were hold in high estimation by contemporary wits.
She left one daughter, who married Lewis \Vogm, Lsq, of
Bolston, in Pembrokeshire.
f Cellau was the birth-place of the Welsh antiquary, the Rev.
Moses Williams. He was born on the. 2nd of March, KiSJ,
with the river, in the direction of Llechryd and !
Lnuipeter; the other, of considerable width, lead- '
ing, in nearly a direct line, from the bridge into ;
the country towards Tiemaen, &c. The bridge, j
which is a handsome stone structure, of seven
arches, across the Teivi, forms a convenient commu-
nication with Pembrokeshire. The population of
Cardigan, in 1811, was 2,129. Here is no manu-
factory for the employment of the poor ; but a con-
siderable coasting trade is carried on with several
parts of England and Ireland. The number of ships
belonging to the port is about 292, their tonnage
10,097, employing nearly 1000 seamen. — Cardigan
was first incorporated by Edward I. The charter
under which the corporation now acts, was enrolled
on the 18th of September, in the 34th of Henry VIII.
The town is governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, and
a coroner. — The church is a venerable building,
•with a handsome square tower at the western end.
It has a spacious nave, with an elegant chancel of
considerably older date than the body of the church.
Near the eastern end of the church stood the priory,
•which appears to have been a small establishment,
dependant on the abbey of Chertsey, in Surrey.
An elegant modern mansion occupies the site of this
house.* — Thecastle occupied a commanding, though
not a very elevated, situation close to the river,
above the present bridge. The remains consist
chiefly of the wall on the river side, and a portion of
ttvo towers by which it was protected. It does not
appear to have covered at any time a very large
space of ground, but was evidently a place of great
strength. History is silent as to the time when this
castle was first erected ; but it Was probably about
the year 1092, when the Norman lords were let loose
on the principality, and began to fortify themselves
in the possessions which they had wrested'from the
native proprietors. During the civil wars of Charles
it was garrisoned for the king, and sustained a re-
gular siege, but at last surrendered to the Parlia-
ment forces under General Langhorne. John
Bowen, Esq. has erected an elegant mansion on the
site of the keep, the dungeons of which he has con-
verted into cellars.
CELLAN.] — Cellan, near Llanddorvi-Brc-fi, in
the neighbourhood of Tregaron, contains many
British and Roman remains. The Roman road,
leading from the great station at Llanio to Llanfair-
ar-y-Bryn, near Llandovery, is seen here ascending
from the shores of the Teivi, to the mountains which
bound the county. Near the little river Ffrwd is a
stone, called Llech Cynon, or Cynon's Stone ; pro-
bably marking the burial place of some British chief.
On a mountain, to the northward, are several other
ancient sepulchres, or kist-vaens, one of which is
called Bedd-y-forwyn, or the Maiden's Grave. The
mountains in this parish contain many Carneddau,
or sepulchral heaps of stones, besides some single
stones of great magnitude. Some remains of mili-
tary works are also found on these hills.f — Descend-
ing the vale of Teivi, on the western side of the
river, is Deri Ormond, or Deri Wormwood, the
seat of John Jones, Esq. On an eminence, between
this house and the Teivi, is an ancient intrenchment
of considerable extent, called Castell Goedtref.
Further on, near the junction of the Dulais witli the
Teivi, once stood a mansion of some note, called
Millfield, belonging to the Lloyds. A favourite son
of Rees Prichard, the celebrated vicar of Llando-
very, having lost his life at this house in a dis-
honourable love affair, the father denounced the
mansion in a curse, which is confidently believed
by many to have had due effect, as they ascribe the
ruin of the place, and the dispersion of the family,
to this circumstance.
The curse of God on Maes-y-felin fall,
And every stone in its detested wall.
DEVIL'S BRIDGE.] — This wonderful assemblage of
romantic scenery, three miles from Hafod, derives
its name from a stone bridge thrown across a deep
cleft in the rocks, at the bottom of which flows the
Mynach, or Monk's river. This is supposed to
have been the work, of the monks of Ysiradfflur,
or Strata-florida, abbey, but being of very early
and unknown date, and considered probably for the
time a wonderful eifort of scientific skill, it has
been ascribed by popular tradition to the personage
and was the son of the Rev. Samuel Williams, vicar of Llandy-
friog in this county. Having received the elementary part of
his classical education at the Carmarthen grammar-school, he
matriculated at University College, Oxford, May 31, 1705.
Here he took his first degree in arts in 1708 ; he was afterwards
incorporated in the same degree at Cambridge.'aad proceeded
master of arts in that university in 1718. He was ordained
deacon by Dr. Tromnel, Bishop of Norwich ; and priest by
Dr. Ottley, Bishop of St. Darids's, who presented him to the
living of Llanwenog, in this county, in 1715 ; and in 1717 he
was inducted to the vicarage of Devynock in Brecknockshire,
where, in 1718, he married Margaret Davies, of that parish.
In 1724 he exchanged this living for the rertory of Clieiton
Trinity, and the vicarage of St. Mary's, Bridgewater, Somer-
setshire. He was elected a fellow of the Royal Society, in
1732. He gave Dr. Wotton much valuable assistance in pre-
paring his edition of the laws of Hywel Dda, the glossary to
which, was principally compiled by Mr. Williams. His other
works comprise various theological treatises, now little known.
whose
WALES.
(585
whose name it boor, *. The original structure hav-
ing been placed so deep in (he glen, as to render
Hie access on either side exceedingly steep and in-
convenient, another bridge, of wider span, was in
the year 1753 built immediately over it. The for-
mer, however, was allowed to remain, and it presents,
with its companion, a remarkable feature in the vie\vs
of this spot. — After crossing the bridge, a steep
path on the right, hardly to be descended without
the aid of a rope fastened to some tree above, leads
to the bottom of the fissure, where the river rushes
along a confined and broken channel in the rocks
with great impetuosity. The entire depth of this
pass, from the upper arch, has been estimated at
one hundred and fourteen feet ; but this depth is
greatly increased to the eye by the proximity of the
cliffs, and the thick and almost impervious foliage
of the trees, which line the rocks on both sides of
the valley. The falls of the Mynach are at some
distance lower down the vale, and may be seen, but
under very different aspects, from either side of the
glen. The grandeur of these falls, rushing among
obstructing rocks, foaming in the deep rocky basons
which they have formed for themselves by the inces-
sant percussion of ages, and filling the narrow
valley with a cloud of spray, cannot be adequately
estimated or conceived without a detailed examina-
tion. In the rocks adjacent to these falls, is a cave,
said to have been the retreat of three robbers, two
brothers and their sister, one of whom is reported
to have been boried on the lower arch of the Devil's
Bridge. Returning over the bridge to the other side
of the valley, a path on the left conducts to a pro-
jecting rock, whence, looking up, a fine view is
obtained of the whole of the falls together. Just
below this rocky promontory, the Mynach empties
its waters into the Rheidol, which flows through
similar romantic scenery from the northward. This
river is reached with some difficulty by a path on
the right, but the labour of the approach is forgotten
in the contemplation of the grandeur of the object
which it presents. There are several smaller falls
higher up. Indeed, the whole bed of this river, for
some miles, in both directions, abounds with them.
Below the junction of the Mynach and the Rheidol,
the wildness of the scenery gradually softens ; the
vale widens, and the river pursues a more tranquil
course towards Aberystwyth, where it enters the
sea.
Just above the Devil's Bridge, the late Mr.
* Htitton's history of this bridge, as given by Nicholson, is
as follows: " An oki woman in search of her strayed cow, saw
her on the opposite side of the clett rock, and in this lamentable
case the devil appeared, sympathised with her deeply, and
offered to accommodate her with a bridge over the chasm, if
she would sutler him to lake the first who passed it. Reflecting
that, as she must be ruined in the one case, she could but be
ruined in the other, she desperately complied. A bridge in-
. stantly appeared. What a situation ! Her cow was dear to her
and valuable, but self-preservation was an impulse superior to
every other consideration. Fortunately, however, ehe had a
dog, and in her pocket a piece of bread--, a glorious thought
Johnes erected a commodious inn, which he desig-
nated the Ilafod Amis. The road over the Devil's
Bridge from the llal'od Arms leads to Llanidlros, in
Montgomeryshire, and other parts of North Wales.
On the left, at the distance of about two miles,
stands a small f linrch, with a few wretched hovels
adjacent to it, called Yspytty Ce'u-faen, formerly
one of the numerous places of shelter and accom-
modation, which were erected and maintained by
the monks of Ystradfflur in this wild country, when
it contained hardly any other human habitation. —
In the church-yard are four large stones placed up-
right in the ground, and forming the periphery of
the quadrant of a circle. They appear to have been
a part of a great circle of the kind usually deno-
minated druidical, within which the present church
was built. A footpath leading across the church-
yard, conducts to one of the most profound and ro-
mantic parts of the valley of the Rheidol, where the
river is confined to a narrow channel of great depth,,
by two projecting rocks. Over the stupendous pass,
a foot-bridge of the rudest kind, consisting of lit tin
more than a plank or beam of wood, with only it,
slight hand rail for defence, has been thrown from
rock to rock, and forms as picturesque and interest--
ing an object, as any in this district. From the
llal'od Arms the road from Rhayadr is continued
along a ridge of hills overlooking the vale of Rhei-
dol, to Aberystwyth ; and at the distance of about
seven miles it is crossed by a road which leads on
the left to Tregaron and Lampeter, and on the right
to Machynlleth. Near this spot, on the right, stands
Castle Hill, a small mansion, belonging to Mr.
Williams. It is designated from the mound near
which it is built, which was the site of an ancient
fort. — On the opposite side of the Rheidol is Fron-
fraith, a seat of the Bonsals.
EBLWYS NF.WYDD.] — Eglwys Newydd, or New
Church, within the precincts of the Ilafod grounds,
occupies a beautiful situation on an eminence, to the
right of the carriage road, by which Mr. Johnes's
mansion is approached by the Devil's Bridge. The
church itself forms a picturesque object in the land-
scape. The Herberts of Hafod erected the first
churcti here, in the year 1620, for the convenience of
the family, and for the accommodation of the miners
in the neighbourhood. That edifice having fallen to
decay, Mr. Johnes, about the year 1803, erected
the present elegant structure on its site, from a
design by Wyatt. The building is cruciform, with
occurred, of saving herself and cow by the sacrifice of the
cur ; she took the piece of bread from her pocket, and threw
it on the other side. Her dog darted over the bridge to seize
it. Satan' looked peevishly askance, galled at the thought of
being bit by an old woman, hung his tail, and walked oil. ft
must be acknowledged that Mr. Satan behaved very honour-
ably in this case, for he kept his word, which U more than
men always do : whether the wisdom of the old lady, the honour
of Mr. Devil, or the active obedience of the dog, was, or is,
the utmost to be commended, is a question 'eft by Mr. Mutton
for others to decide."
a squarr
684
WALES.
n square tower at (he west end. The family pew of
the ilaibcl family is in the south-west transept ; and
the pulpit, &c. are on the opposite side. The font,
placed In the centre of the church, is an octangular
bason, supported by a small pillar. On one side of
the bason are the arms of the Johnes family, and
the other sides are ornamented with roses. The
sides of the pillar, which is also octangular, bear
eight figures representing the cardinal virtues. On
one side of the pulpit is a fine painting of our Sa-
viour and the two disciples at Emmaus, by Fuseli.
This was removed from over the altar to make room
for the monument to the memory of Miss Johnes.
It was in contemplation, but we know not whether
the design has been carried into execution, to place
another picture of corresponding dimensions on the
other side of the pulpit. The windows are of the
lancet form : that on the south-west is composed
entirely of line painted glass, which was removed
to this country from a church in Holland, during
the French revolution. The subjects are from the
New Testament. — Several of the Herberts of Hafod
lie buried in this church. The last member of this
house deposited here, (excepting, we believe, 31r.
Johnes,) was Miss Johnes, the only child of the
late proprietor. A marble monument, by Chauntrey,
contains sculptured portraits of herself, and her
mourning parents, as large as life. It is placed over
the altar, and it bears the following inscription : —
" When at the holy altar's foot is given
The blushing maiden to the enamoured youth,
Whose long tried honour, constancy, and truth,
Yield the fair promise of an earthly heaven,
Though to far distant friends and country led,
Fond parents triumph 'mid the tears they shed.
" Shall we then grieve, that a celestial spouse
Hath borni; this virgin treasure from our sight,
To share the glories of the eternal light.
The end of all our prayers and all our vows ?
We should rejoice— but cannot as we ought-
Great God ! forgive the involuntary fault."
This place, formerly a chapelry to Llanfihangel y
Creuddyn, now forms a parish of itself.
FERWYG.] — In this parish, on the asstuary of the
Teivi, near the western extremity of the county, is
a farm called Nant y Flynion, (or Filymion,) which
takes its name from the Flemings having landed on
the shore, near a small brook just by. The despe-
rate resistance which they met with, is confirmed by
a large heap on this farm, near the sen, composed of
the bones of the invaders, which frequently appear,
as the wind disperses the sand in which they are
buried. This mound of sand is very near Mount
Church, and the tradition is, that the Flemings
having landed on a small beach called Traeth
y Mwnt, were met by the natives, when a bloody
battle ensued, on the first Sunday after New Year's
day, which, from that circumstance, was called the
" Red Sunday," in Welsh, " sul culloch." This
appellation was evidently given, in consequence ot
the blood shed on that day. — The neighbourhood
were accustomed to meet on that Sunday, till within
a few years ago, when wrestling, kicking, and foot-
ball, usually took place.
HAFOD.] — Hafod, or Havod-Uchtryd, the justly
celebrated seat of the late Thomas Johnes, Esq.
Lord- Lieutenant, and Gustos Rotulorum of the
county of Cardigan, M. P. &c. is delightfully situ-
ated near Pentre Brunant, in the Vale of Ystwyth.
The entrance into the grounds, on the left of the
turnpike road, is marked by a neat lodge and gate-
way ; whence the carriage road winds to the right,
partly through groves of young trees, and partly
through a forest of majestic oak, and nothing is seen
of the house till a turn round a projecting rock, at
the extremity of the wood, brings it full in view.
This approach is happily contrived ; and the effect
produced by the sudden appearance of a rich lawn,
terminated by an elegant and majestic mansion, in
the midst of some of the wildest and most dreary
scenery of nature, is almost magical. Within a few
years, a new and beautiful approach from the vil-
lage has been made on the southern bank above the
river. — The first occupation of Hafod, as a place of
residence, is traced to a branch of the Herbert
family, who, having embarked in some mining ad-
ventures in the neighbourhood, built a house here
in the reign of Elizabeth. The name, which means
a summer habitation, was given to the place probably
from the circumstance of its being at that period
scarcely accessible at any other season of the year.
William Herbert, Esq. died in 1704, leaving a
daughter, Jane, who marrying Thomas Johnes,
Esq. of Llanvair Clydoge, near Lampeter, conveyed
the estate into this family. In 1783, the property
having come into the possession of Colonel Johoes,
he determined upon making this bis principal abode ;
and immediately projected and commenced those
magnificent schemes of ornamental and substantial
improvement, of which he saw the spot to be sus-
ceptible.— The old house was pulled down, and re-
placed by an elegant structure built by Baldvvyn,
the architect, of Bath. It was a light and airy
Gothic edifice, with pointed windows and pinnacles ;
the rooms, none of them very large, but sufficiently
capacious for all the purposes of real comfort, and
for the most liberal and elegant hospitality. Mr.
Johnes added a library, which consisted of an octa-
gonal apartment, lighted from the dome above, and
surrounded on the inside by a gallery, supported by
pillars of variegated marble. One of the sides was
occupied by a pair of folding doors, pannelled with
plate glass, which opened into a conservatory, 160
feet in length. Adjoining this library stood at one
time the staircase, which was afterwards removed,
and the area converted into an anti-library. It was
arranged in the form of a chapel, and the windows
were enriched by some fine specimens of painted
glass. The large window contained a fine portrait
of a cardinal, kneeling to his tutelar saint, supposed
to have been copied from Holbein. In these two
rooms
WALES.
rooms were deposited a noble collection of hooks
and manuscripts, which Mr. Johnes had, at an im-
mense expense, brought together. The rooms
which were thrown open to the inspection of stran-
gers, consisted of these libraries, a music-room,
summer and winter dining-rooms, and a drawing-
room ; all enriched by many valuable paintings, and
productions of art.. The drawing-room, completely
furnished with the finest Gobelin tapestry, was the
only apartment which aspired to splendour of deco-
ration. The other apartments were furnished with
equal taste. — Such was Hafod in the beginning of
1807. Early in the morning of Friday, the 13tb of
March, in that year, however, the mansion, with
nearly the whole of its contents, became a prey to
the flames. The fire was first discovered by Mrs.
Johnes, who immediately gave the alarm. She next
directed her attention to the library ; but the fire
spread so rapidly and furiously, that she was able to
effect little. The plate, several of the pictures, and
some other valuables, were rescued ; but all the ma-
nuscripts, including Sir John Seabright's Collection,
in the Welsh language, some splendid illuminated
manuscripts of Froissart, the principal part of the
printed books, amounting to several thousand vo-
lumes, some magnificent French mirrors, nearly the
•whole of the furniture, all the linen, musical instru-
ments, and the wine, were destroyed, together with
the whole interior of the building. The conflagra-
tion lasted only three hours, but raging unchecked,
the fire-engine on the premises being useless, on
account of the water being frozen at the time, it
spread with rapidity, and devoured as it spread.
Happily, through Mrs. Johnes's great fortitude and
presence of mind, no lives were lost. Mr. Johnes
was in London, attending his duty in Parliament,
and did not arrive to witness the desolation, till the
18th of the month, when his family had removed
for a temporary asylum to the inn at the Devil's
Bridge. The origin of the fire was never ascertain-
ed ; but it is supposed to have broken out in one of
the servants' chambers. The pecuniary loss was
stated at 70,000/. of which sum 26,500/. was reco-
vered from the insurance offices. With that enthu-
siasm, however, which led him to devote his life and
fortune to the creation of a paradise out of a wil-
derness, Air. Johnes determined still to inhabit his
Eden, 'in spite of the flaming minister. Another
mansion, in consequence, arose from the ashes of
the former. The exterior of the present house is
nearly the same as that of its predecessor, the greater
part of the walls having been preserved ; but several
alterations have been made in the interior arrange-
ments. The apartments now shewn comprise the
principal octagon library, improved by the removal
of the gallery and pillars. This still opens to the
conservatory, which escaped the flames ; — a circular
anti- library, opening into the former; another library,
consisting of a large parallelogrammical room, com-
municating with the latter ; a spacious dining-room,
and a drawing-room. Another choice collection
VOL. iv. — NO. 190.
of books has also been formed here ; the foundation
of which was laid by the Pesaro library, which Mr.
Johnes had purchased in Italy, and wlm-h was on
its xvay to Hafod at the time of the fire. It com-
prises many very valuable books in the Spanish,
French, and particularly the Italian language, rare
editions of the classics, and almost all the produc-
tions from the Aldine press. — The principal paintings
and other works of art, which were saved from the
general wreck, are disposed in these apartments.
The octagon library contains busts of Mrs. and Miss
Johnes, by Banks, a bust of Mr. Johnes, by Chaun-
trey, and one of the late Duke of Bedford, by Noli
likens. Over the fire-place is a curious ancient
picture of Elijah fed by Ravens. This picture
once belonged to the abbey of Talley in Carmar-
thenshire, and at the Dissolution was given by the
superior of that house to one of Mr. Johnes's an-
cestors, probably of Abermarlais, in whose family
it has remained ever since. This library is orna-
mented by eight pictures from Monstre'et, by Stot-i
hard, to imitate bassi-relievi. Both the doors have
columns of Mona marble. — The long library con-
tains an exquisite piece of sculpture, by Banks,
representing Thetis dipping Achilles in the Styx.
Opposite the door leading from the long library to
the dining-room, is a fine painting by Rubens, of
Decius Mus receiving the benediction of the Pon-
tifex Maximus, when he devoted himself for- the
safety of his country. — The New Library contains
portraits of Mr. Johnes of Llanfair, by Sir G. Knel-
ler ; of Robert Listen, Esq. by Wickstead ; of
Richard Gorges, Esq. of Eye, in Herefordshire,
and of Viganoni ; a fine copy of Guido's Cupid
Sleeping; a Flemish Landscape; two Landscapes,,
by Both and Berghem ; a View of the Bridge of St.
Maurienne in Savoy, by Deane ; a fine picture by
Salvator Rosa, of a ruined alchymist. In the draw-
ing-room, over the chimney-piece, is Hogarth's
celebrated picture of Southwark fair ; at one end is
a picture of the Descent from the Cross, by Van-
dyke ; and, under it, a fine Ecce Homo by Muralez ;
two Landscapes by Claude, in one of which he has
given a view of the arch at Ancona ; and two mi-
niatures from the celebrated Missal, which once be-
longed to the Due de Beauvilliers. At the other
end is the masterpiece of Canaletti, a procession of
the Doge of Venice ; underneath are two pictures,
by Hodges, of Montavai Bay, in Otaheite, and of
Fayal, one of the Azores islands, and a portrait of
Lord Chancellor Thurlow, by Gardener. On one
side is the assumption of the Virgin, by Bernardo
Lonino, a pupil of Leonardo da Vinci ; on the other
side is a Holy Family by Rubens ; and underneath
are some beautiful miniatures painted by the lute
Miss Johues. — In the hall, which is paved with
Mona marble, is a Grecian statue of Bacchus, of the
heroic size, which was formerly at Pain's Hill * and
six pictures from Froissart, by Stolhard, to imitate
bassi relievi. The whole furniture of these apart-
ments is in a style of elegant simplicity. Some of
8 L the
WALES.
tlic marble chimney-pieces, which are enriched with
sculptured devices, touched by a masterly hand,
were brought from Fonthill ; as were also three
magnificent French mirrors in the long library, hav-
ing been purchased at Mr. Beckford's sale. — Mrs.
Johnes established a school at Hafod several years
ago, for the gratuitous education of poor girls, who
are taught to read and spin. Fine table cloths used
by the family were at one time made from this home-
manufactured thread ; and Mr. Johnes transmitted
to the Agricultural Society, samples of woollen
cloth made from the yarn produced by this little
establishment. In the grounds was also a printing-
house, from which issued Mr. Johnes's translation
of Froissart's and Monstrelet's Chronicles, Join-
ville and Le Brocquiere's Memoirs, &c. The lands
in the immediate vicinity of the house have been
brought into the highest state of cultivation, and are
as productive as the nature of the soil renders it
probable they are capable of being made. The
condition in which Mr. Johnes found them in 1783,
may be judged of by the fact, that the whole de-
mesne afforded grass and hay for no more than two
cows : in a few years afterwards the very same land
maintained eighty. The prejudice, that varieties of
cheese cannot be produced on the same land, is com-
pletely refuted by the experience of this dairy, which
produces Parmesan, Stilton, Gloucester, Cheshire,
and every other kind, so excellent in quality, and so
exact in the imitation of shape and flavour, as to
deceive the most accurate eye or palate. The num-
ber of labourers employed on the farm, is very
great, and their comfortable cottages, interspersed
among the woods, with the houses of the bailiff and
gardener, aspiring even to elegance, convey more
Ihe idea of a flourishing colony, than of a gentle-
man's private residence. — The plantations on this
••state form a very important feature in the improve-
ments which have been prosecuted here. Mr. Johnes
found the larch-fir answer the best of any tree in
the more hilly and exposed parts of his grounds,
and in consequence made it the principal object of
his attention.* The tour of these -grounds is
usually commenced by crossing the Ystwyth from
the lawn, a little way to the eastward of the house,
over a wooden bridge of singular construction. " On
reaching the opposite shore, the walk branches in
two directions ; one path leads to the hill which
* The following statement is given by Dr. Malkin :— " From
June 1796 to June 1797, four hundred thousand larches were
planted, and very few of the plants failed. Besides these, in
the same year, two handled and fifty thousand other trees were
planted, of which fifty thousand were alders, and the rest elm,
beech, birch, ash, and mountain ash They all throve well,
but the beech flourished more than any, except the larch.
About ten thousand were planted to the acre. From October
1797, to October 1798, ten thousand oaks were plained from
one to two feet high ; and from October 1798 to April 1799,
fifty-live acres were set with acorns. In the same space of
tiine in which the plantations of oaks were going forwards,
twenty-five thousand ash-trees were planted, of which not more
than five hundred died ; and about four hundred thousand larch
rises in front of the house, the other conducts to a
sequestered and romantic valley, through which a
small stream flows from the southward, over a rocky
and precipitous bed into the Ystwyth. Soon after
entering this glen, the loud roar of falling waters
announces our approach towards a cataract of no
ordinary magnitude. This fall, which is anticipated
with lively interest, is not, however, seen from the
walk even when the proximity of the noise assures
us that it is near at hand, being concealed behind
a lofty projecting rock. Formerly the only view
that could be obtained of it, was from a spot of
difficult access on the other side of the stream, that
commanded the access into which the water is pre-
cipitated ; but Mr. Johnes had a winding passage
cut through the rock, on the right, which brings
the spectator suddenly in front of the fall, about
the middle of its descent, where it is beheld to the
highest advantage. At some periods," when the
brook is swoln by floods from the mountain, the
water rushes in a foaming torrent through this
cavern, and descending the steps which lead to it
from the walk, forms a new cascade of great beauty.
Nothing could have been more happily contrived,
than the whole that has been done here by the hand
of art. From this fall, a path conducts on the
other side of the brook towards the Ystwyth, which
is crossed here by a stone bridge that formerly
marked the upper boundary of the walks in this
direction. But a new path has been carried higher
up the river, which is in many places cut through
shelving precipices that overhang the stream. Along1
the whole extent of this romantic walk, the bed of
the Ystwyth lies over a mass of dark blue rock :
the channel is occasionally so contracted as hardly
to admit the passage of the water ; in other parts
it is interrupted and broken by ledges and preci-
pices, which produce a succession of cataracts, end-
less in their variety, and of almost unrivalled wild-
ness. At the extremity of this path, an elevated
chain bridge over the Ystwyth forms a communi-
cation with another walk, which descends in a
parallel direction on the opposite bank. This
bridge commands a fine view of the river, which,
at some distance above, is thrown over an uneven
ledge of rocks into a considerable bason that it has
hollowed out for itself: the prospect up the vale is
terminated by the village of Pentre Brunant, and
trees. The larches were all two years old seedlings, and were
always planted on the upper parts of hills. The larches planted
at the height of from eighteen inches to two feet, in the year
1796, were from ten to thirteen feet high in 1802. The medium,
growth has been from twenty inches to two feet each year; but
the shoots of one very favourable season, were from two feet and
a half to three feel, and in some instances three feet eight inches.
The whole number of trees planted on the estate, from October
1795 to April 1801, amounted to two millions and sixty-five
thousand, of which one million two hundred thousand were
larches; \\ilhout including the land sown with acorns." Since
this period, the planiations have been extended on the same
scale and with equal spirit ; from one to two hundred thousand
trees being planted every year.
the
WALES,
687
the heights in its rear. Returning down the river
on the northern side, a path on the right winds into
a narrow valley, which affords another of those fine
cascades which abound in these grounds. This is
called the Piran cascade, from the little mountain
stream which flows through the glen. In dry sea-
sons, when the water is scanty, it is divided into
two parts : the upper portion, after forcing its
passage over some massive fragments of rock,
terminates about midway down the descent in a
large natural bason, which, at such times, forms a
very convenient bath ; but when the brook has been
swoln by rains, the water flows over the margin of
this excavation, and rushes with great velocity and
grandeur over broken precipices to the more level
channel beneath." A steep path leads hence to-
wards the church of Eglwys Newydd, which is
situated on the left higher up in the woods, and has
been already noticed. Retracing our steps towards
the Ystwyth, and pursuing its course along the path
•we had left, on entering one of the wildest spots
in the wood, we are brought unexpectedly to a
creation of fairy gaiety, which derives increased
beauty and effect from its contrast with every thing
immediately around. A piece of ground of about
two acres in extent, gently declining to the south-
ward, has been laid out here witti exquisite taste
into a flower garden, enriched with a great variety
of rare shrubs, and exhibiting one of the most
agreeable pictures of the kind that the eye can con-
template. The direct path towards tiie house from
this delightful retreat continues some way further
down the river, until it reaches the lawn. Through
the whole course of this walk, striking views are
presented of the Ystwyth in both directions, with
the ever varying scenery on either side ; and conve-
nient seats have been placed in elegible situations,
whence they may be beheld with the greatest advan-
tage. Another path winds up a steep ascent on the
right, and conducts to the summit of a bold rocky
eminence, where, imbosomed in woods, lies another
flower garden, so carefully sheltered, and judici-
ously disposed, as to realise a paradise in a wilder-
ness. Having been assigned to her who formed the
hope of Hafod, this Was always held sacred ground,
ami opened only to friends who were admitted to
the family circle. The lovely flower which imparted
to it its highest grace and interest, having, in the
bloom of life, been transplanted to another soil,* the
spot so intimately associated with the cherished re-
membrance of lier name, has become doubly sacred.
In a commanding situation, on the brow of this
hill, is an obelisk commemorative of the late Duke
of Bedford. Besides the walks enumerated above,
several others branch in various directions through
the woods, and extend to a length of 8 or 10
miles. All the walks have been most judiciously
* This amiable and highly accomplished young lady, Miss
Marianne Jolmes, the only daughter and presumptive heiress
of Thomas Johnes, Esq. died July 4th, 1811, in the 27th jear
laid out. A striking excellence in the arrangement
of them consists in their always terminating in some
point or object which leaves the mind delighted and
satisfied. In some instances they conduct to a fine
waterfall, in others to a well chosen station for view-
ing the beauties of the surrounding country, and in
all, lead through scenes which cannot fail to gratify
the lover of natural beauty.
LAMPETER.]— The straggling little market-town
of Lampetor, or Llanbedr, from its church, dedi-
cated to St. Peter, is 204 miles from London. It
is also sometimes called Llanbedr-pont-Stuffan,
from the bri age over the Teivi, half a mile distant,
having been originally built by a person of the name
of Stephen, at his own charge; or, according to
others, from King Stephen's having thrown a bridge
over one of the principal trenches of a camp here.
The town chiefly consists of indifferent cottages ;
but it is pleasantly situated on the western shore of
the Teivi, and hits a tolerable inn. It is a contri-
butory borough to Cardigan, and is governed by a
portreeve. This appears to have been a place of
larger extent, and greater consequence, at some
distant period, than it is at present. " Gwyr Llarn-
bedr," or the men of Lampeter, are occasionally
mentioned in the Welsh annals ; tradition records
that there was once another church on the south-
west side of the town ; and there is a house in the
town called the Priory, in the ground attached to
which are some remains of walls, and an aged yew-
tree. The mansion of the Lords of Lampeter occu-
pied a delightful eminence at some distance to the
westward of the town. The church, which stands
in a pleasant situation, on an eminence that com-
mands an extensive view of the vale in both direc-
tions, is a plain old substantial building, with a
square tower at one end. It once had a rood-loft,
some remains of which yet exist. A little to the
northward, is an artificial mound of earth, probably
the site of an ancient fortress ; but Stephen's Cas-
tle stood on the outskirts of the town, in a meadow
on the right of the road leading to Aberyst \vyth.
Its site is indicated by a lo/ty moated tumulus, and
the traces of a quadrangular court. Near the tovvn
are several other remains of early date. Lampeter
was honoured with a visit from Archbishop BaliKvyn,
and the Archdeacon Giraldus, in their expedition.
— Giraldus thus describes the appearance and
dress of a young Welsh prince who joined them
here, as their escort: — " On the following morning
we were met near the side of a wood by Cynric
sou of Rhys, accompanied by a body of light armed
youths. This young man was of a fair complexion,
with curlei! hair; tall and handsome; according
to the custom of his country, with a thin cloak and
inner garment ; his legs and feet, regardless of
thorns and thistles, were left bare ; a man not
of her age. — For a description of Chauntiey's monument to
her memory, see the account of Eglwys Newydd, in a pre-
ceding page.
It dt) Plied
CSS
WALES.
adorned by art but nature ; bearing in bis presence |
an innate, not an acquired, dignity of manners."
A sliort distance beyond Lampeter, in a rich mea-'
dow on the left of the road, a few scattered stones,
which are rapidly disappearing, mark the site of the
splendid mansion of Peterwell, a seat of the Evans
family. -«-lieyond Peterwell, near the church of Llan-
wnnen, on the banks of the Cranell, is an artificial
mound of earth moated round the base, called Cas-
tell Du, or the black castle. On a farm in this
vicinity, called Cefn-Llewtref, some curious silver
coins were dug up a few years ago. — Near the road
which branches oil' on the left towards Llan-y-byd-
dar in Carmarthenshire is Llanvaughan, the seat
of the late Admiral Thomas. The site was formerly
occupied by a small chapel, whence tlie name of
Llnn-fychan, afterwards rendered Llanvaughan, is
derived. The mansion, built about 1786, is an
elegant structure of moderate size, surrounded by
agreeable pleasure grounds. Near the Teivi, in
this parish (Llanwenog) are two circular tumuli,
which appear to have been formerly covered by
small forts. A large barrow in this neighbourhood,
called Crug yr Udon, on being opened some time
ago was found to contain an earthen glazed coffin
having bones in it, placed in an upright position.
In a field not far from the church there was formerly
a singular bank of earth, resembling a human body
lying down, with the arms stretched out; the head
was wanting. It extended six yards iu length, and
was four feet high. It bore the name of the earn or
barrow of Philip the Irishman. Tradition states,
that Philip lived in the tower of Llanwenog Church,
and used to commit depredations in the neighbour-
hood ; but once being pursued he leaped from the
church tower, and breaking his leg in consequence,
was taken, and put to death, and here buried. At
some distance on 'the left of the road, on a delight-
ful eminence overlooking the Teivi, stands High
Mead, the seat of Herbert Evans, Esq.; and, pur-
suing the main road towards Cardigan, ten miles
froir Lampcter, is a comfortable inn, called the Allt
yr Ooyn Arms. A road io the left leads to Allt yr
Qdyn, the seat of David Lloyd, Esq. whose library
contains some curious ancient Welsh manuscripts.
On a hill near Allt yr Odyn are some ruins of an
ancient fortress ; and, at some distance to the west-
ward, lies Castle Howell, or Castell Hy wel, a part
of the Allt yr Odyn estate, which has for several
years been occupied as a farm-house. Near the
river Clctvvr, a short distance from the house, is a
moated tumulus, which indicates the site of the
castle from which this place derived its name. It
was originally designated Humphrey's Castle ; but,
in 1150, Hywel, Owen Gwynedd's son, strengthened
it, and called it after his own name. The passage
of the Cletvvr, below the Allt yr Odyn Arms, is
called Rhyd Ovvain, or Owens-ford ; a. name which
it is thought to have acquired from having been
crossed at this spot by Owen Gwynedd in one of
Iiis invasions of South Wales. On ascending the
hill above, n road on the left conducts to the villngc
of Llandyssil, on the rocky shores of the Teivi. The
church, a plain respectable structure, forms a strik-
ing object in the landscape. On the north side of
the nave is an elegant marble monument, in-
scribed
To the Memory
of his beloved wife Eliza
(who died June 3rd 1805, aged 36 years)
Daughter of Herbert Evans, Esq.
of Highmead in this county,
David Lloyd, Esq. of Alltyrotlin
Erected this monument.
Learn from her life the virtues that commend
The child, the wife, the parent, and llje friend.
Learn from her death, that Heaven's decrees ordain
To beauty and to youth a short lived reign.
Then soar like her, releas'd from worldly cares,
To bliss that God for purest souls prepares.
The stile over which the church-yard is entered
is formed of a fragment of an ancient monumental
stone, bearing part of an illegible inscription. On
a hill, at a short distance from the church, are some
remains of an old castle, denominated Castell Gwy-
nionydd, or Castell Coed-fon. At Cil-y-graig, in
this parish, is another artificial mound of earth,
which marks the site of Castell Aber-einon, said to
have been erected in 1205. This parish contains,
also, several Carneddau, or sepulchral heaps of
stones. The scenery on the shores of the Teivi
below Llandyssil is remarkably fine. On a lofty
hill, on a bold reach of the river, stands the church
of Bangor ; and near it is a moated tumulus called
Pistog's Castle. Blaen Dyffryn, in this neighbour-
hood, is the residence of W. Williams, Esq. Lower
down the vale, near Heullan Church, are some of
the finest cascades on the Teivi. The little town-
ship, called Atpar, had once the privilege of being a
contributory borough to Cardigan. Above Atpar
is a pretty cottage belonging to William Brigstocke,
Esq. To the westward is Cilgwyn, the seat of the
late Admiral Brathwaite. Higher up, on a de-
lightful woody eminence, stands Bronwydd, the re-
sidence of Thomas Lloyd, Esq. To the northward
are Pen-y-Baili, the seat of William Davies, Esq. ;
Gernos, the seat of Llewelyn Parry, Esq. ; Gwer-
nant, the residence of John Lloyd Williams, Esq. ;
Troed-yr-Aur, the seat of the Rev. Thomas Bowen ;
and below New Castle Emlyn, on the left of the
road, is Stradmore Vale, recently occupied by Ro-
bert Taylor, Esq. Next appears Pen-y-Wenallt,
the seat of John Griffiths, Esq. and the birth-place
of the Rev. Theophiltis Evans. Farther on is the
mansion of Blaeu Pant, the residence of Colonel
Owen Brigstocke. A little to the northward is
Noyadd fawr, the property of Mrs. Gvvynne. On
the bank of the river is Llwyn Dyris, near the site
of an ancient castellated dwelling of unknown date.
The neighbouring village of Lleehrhyd has an an-
cient ivy mantled bridge over the Teivi. Here is
an old dissenting meeting-house, stated to ba\e
been
WALES.
been built by Major Wade, an officer in Cromwell's
army. Beyond Llechrhyd is the ancient house of
Coedmore, or Coed-mawr, a name implying the
great wood. The mansion occupies a lofty site,
overlooking the river, and having the bold ruins of
Cilgeran Castle nearly in front. Llangoedmore
Place, two miles from Cardigan, is delightfully
situated, commanding a charming view of the river.
The parish of Langoedmore contains several ancient
remains of antiquarian interest. Near a farm in this
parish, called Treforgan, by the side of a cataract,
is St. Cynllo's cave. Some holes in the rock are
said to have been formed by his horse's feet, and by
his own knees, from his constant habit of praying
on this spot. Two miles above Cardigan, is a hill
called Crug-mawr, or the large tumulus, which is
mentioned by Giraldus. " On this spot," says he,
" Griffydh, son of Rhys at Theodor, soon after the
death of King Henry I. by a furious onset gained a
signal victory against the English army, which, by
the murder of the illustrious Richard de Clare near
Abergavenny, had lost its leader and chief. A tu-
roulus is to be seen on the summit of the aforesaid
kill, and the inhabitants affirm, that it will adapt
itself to persons of all stature ; and that if any ar-
mour is left there intire in the evening, it will be
found, according to vulgar tradition, broken to
pieces in the morning."
LLANARTH.] — The little village of Llanarth, is
four miles from Aberaeron, on the western bank of the
river Llethy. In the church-yard is an ancient
monumental stone, bearing a largo cross, and the
remains of an inscription. — Near the sea shore, at
the lower extremity of this vale, stands Llanina
House, the seat of E. W. Jones, Esq. The little port
of New Quay, a little farther to the westward, is
capable of great improvement, opening immediately
into the Irish sea. Near the southern extremity of
the parish of Llanarth, is a large intrenchraent,
called Castell Moeddyn ; and another on a farm
called Pen-foel. Beyond New Quay, on the other
side of the promontory, is Llandyssilio-gogo, on the
sea coast. Gogo, or Gogofau, signifies caves ; and
the name was applied to the parish, from the exca-
vations in the rocks by the sea side. Near the
church is the old mansion of Llwyn Dafydd, where
the Earl of Richmond was hospitably entertained
by Dafydd ab Jeuan, the first night after his en-
trance into Cardiganshire. An elegant drinking-
horn, presented by the Earl to his host, is preserved
at Goldi?n Grove in Carmarthenshire. The daugh-
ter of Dafyd ab Jcuan surrendered her charms to
his noble guest, and thus became the mother of the
Parrys, or Ab Harrys, of this house, who connected
themselves with some of the principal families of the
county. In the vicinity is C\vm Cynnon, the seat
of Llewelyn Parry, Esq. of Gernos. — On a farm
called Cillieu, or " the retreats," in this neighbour-
hood, is a circular enclosure, 204 feet in diameter,
divided into fhree-compartments. The area is en-
closed by a mound of loose stoues, whence it has i
VOL. iv. — NO. 190.
acquired the name of Y Garn Wen, or the white
heap. The whole is surrounded by a low rampart ;
and near it is a large piece of ground which appears
to have been enclosed by an earthen rampart. In
this neighbourhood is also an ancient fortress, called
Castell Llwyn Dafyn, which forms a circle of about
200 feet in diameter, and is fortified by two deep
ditches, with embankments. — The next seat on this
road is Wervilbrook, or Fynnawn Werfil, the resi-
dence of the Rev. Lewis Tumor. The extensive
farm of Wervilbrook, is one of the best cultivated,
in the county. In the neighbourhood are some car-
neddau, or sepulchral heaps. — On the right of
Wervilbrook is Pigeon's Ford, or Rhyd Clymenog,
the residence of George Price, Esq. — Cwin-owen,
or Owen's vale, another ancient residence in this
neighbourhood, is the property of Dr. Davies, of
Carmarthen. A rich vein of copper is supposed to
exist on this estate. — On the sea coast, stands the
church of Llangranog ; and, at the village below,
is a port for small craft. The place is occasionally
visited for the purpose of sea bathing. The rock
above the harbour, exhibiting the appearance of a
large chair, called yr Eisteddfa, or the seat, has
been thought to derive its name from having been a
place of meeting for the bards. On another summit
in the vicinity is a large tumulus. — The adjoining
parish of Penbryn contains numerous antiquities,
chiefly military, of British origin. Castell Nadolig
is surrounded by three ditches and embankments. —
The names of several places and objects in this vi-
cinity shew it to have been the seat of many military
adventures and sanguinary conflicts. A part of tha
shore in this parish, reckoned the finest on the coast
for bathing, is called Traeth-saith. " Saith" stands
for the Welsh numeral seven ; and the name, ren-
dered " Seven shore," is traditionally supposed to
have been derived from seven daughters of a certain
king who had been sent to sea without sails or oars,
and thrown a-shore on this spot. — On the right of
Castell Nadolig, stands Llanborth, anciently the
seat of Rhys ab Rhydderch, Lord of Tyvvyn. —
Abernant Bychan, another ancient seat, formerly of
the Lewises, is the property of Lovedeu Loveden,
Esq. of Buscot Park, Berkshire.— Near the villag*
of Blaenporth, on an elevated site, called Blaen-
porth Gvvythau, is an old encampment ; and, on a
tumulus adjoining, was a mural fortress of great
strength, thought to have been built by Gilbert,
Earl of Clare. There are two other encampments
in this neighbourhood. — Aberforth is a little fishing
town, pleasantly situated in a small cove at the en-
trance of the river which flows by Blaenporth. —
Ty-llwyd, in Blaenporth, is the seat of John Lloyd,
Esq. The little village of Tremaen, is thought to
have derived its name, which signifies " the town of
the stone," from the large stone called Llech yr Ast,
which formerly existed near this spot, in the ad-
joining parish of Llangoedmawr. A ford, called
Rhydwenwnferch, is conjectured to have been so
designated iu consequence of the water having been
$ M poisoned
690
WALES.
poisoned by a young woman, with the view of de-
stroying a party of hostile invaders.
LLANBADARN-FAWR.] — About a mile from Aberyst-
wyth, stands the ancient city of Llanbadarn-Fawr,
which is pleasantly seated on the banks of the Rhei-
dol. It takes its name from Padarn, or Paternus,
a saint of considerable celebrity. The name of the
Bishop of Llanbadarn occurs at a Synod held in
Worcestershire, in 603 ; and the church is stated to
have lost its episcopal privileges, which were an-
nexed to St. David's, through the turbulent conduct
of the inhabitants, who killed their bishop. Gilbert
Strbngbow gave the endowments of this house, in
Till, to the church of St. Peter's at Gloucester;
and they were in after times appropriated to the
abbey of Vale Royal, in Cheshire. The church is
cruciform, having a heavy square tower at one end.
The architecture is of the early Gothic style. The
date of its erection is not known, but it is supposed
to have been built soon after the Conquest. It has
a nave, chancel, and two transepts; and it has
several monuments in commemoration of some of
the principal inhabitants of the parish, particularly
of the houses of Gogerthan and Nant-eos. A stone
in the chancel marks the burying place of Lewis
Morris, the Welsh antiquary. Amongst the anti-
quities of Llanbadarn, may be noticed two ancient
stone crosses, ornamented with rude carvings ; and,
in the middle of the village, a large upright stone.
Plas Crug, the site of an ancient British palace, or
intrenchment, occupies the summit of a small hill
in a wide marsh adjacent to Llanbadarn. On an
eminence, a little to the northward of Aberystwyth,
stands Penglais, the seat of Rodwick Richards,
Esq. commanding a fine view of the sea and of the
country to the southward, as far as the lower extre-
mity of Cardigan Bay. On the right of the road to
Machynlleth, about four miles from Aberystwyth,
lies Gogerthan, occupying an elevated situation iu
** Dafydd ab Gwilym was born about the year 1340, and is
supposed to have died about 1400. His mother, proving preg-
nant before marriage, was expelled from her home ; upon which
she was united to her lover. They, together probably with
their infant son, sought an asylum in the mansion of her relation
I for Hael, or Ifor the generous, Lord of Tredegar, in Mon-
mouthshire. Upon a reconciliation being effected, Dafydd
was placed under the tuition of his uncle Llewelyn ab Gwilym,
a man of talents and learning. It appears that some of his earlier
productions gave offence to his parents, and obliged him to
seek once more the protection of Ifor; who on this occasion
appointed him his steward, and invested him will) the office of
tutor to his daughter. The intercourse which this situation re-
quired with his fair charge, gave rise to a mutual passion, on
the discovery of which by her father, the lady was sent to ,a
nunnery in Anglesey. Thither she was followed by her lover,
who, in the hope of gaining admittance to her, hired himself
as a servant to the abbot of an adjacent monastery. Foiled,
however, in his plans, he returned to the house of his patron,
who treated him with unabated kindness. During his residence
there he was elected to the chair as Chief Bard of Glamorgan.
He is stated to have had several poetical contests, in which he
always came off victorious. It is related of one of his compe-
titors, Rhys Meigan, that he was so affected by one of Dafydd's
a forest of fir. It was the property of the ancient
family of the Pryses ; aud it was the birth-place
of leuan ab Rhydderch ab Jeuan Llwyd, a poet
of considerable eminence, who flourished between
A. D. 1410 and 1440, aud who at that time owned
this estate. On the left of the turnpike road, near
the sea, is Castell Gwalter, or Walter's Castle. It
occupies the summit of a lofty hill, near the church
of Llanfihangel-genau'r-glyn. It was erected by
Walter Espec, one of the Norman invaders of this
county, who founded the abbey ofKirkhamin York-
shire in 112-2, the abbey of Rievale in 1131, and
that of Warden in the county of Bedford in 1136.
He took the cowl in the monastery of Rievale,
where he ended his days in the year 1158. His
daughter Adelina married Peter, Lord Roos, a lineal
ancestor of the Duke of Rutland. — On a mountain,
called Pen Sarn ddu, near the high road, is an
ancient remain, called gwely Taliesin, the bed or
grave of Taliesin, being assigned, by popular tra-
dition, as the burial place of the bard of that name.
It must, however, be referred to a remoter origin.
When opened several years ago, it was found to
contain a human skull, all that remained of the body,
once, probably, greatly distinguished, which it had
been formed to enclose. — Glanfraed, an old mansion
near the river Leri, the reputed birth-place of the
celebrated antiquary Edward Llwyd, author of
the Archaelogia Britannica, and other learned works.
In the parish of Llanbadarn-Fawr, a few miles from
Aberystwyth, stands Nant-eos, the seat of W. E.
Powell, Esq. The house is a neat substantial build-
ing, but badly situated, on a low flat meadow,
nearly surrounded by lofty hills. It contains a few
good Flemish pictures, and several family portraits.
At Bro-Gynin, within the precincts of Llanbadarn-
Fawr, was born Dafydd ab Gwilym, a celebrated
Welsh bard.* — Some distance beyond Nanteos, lies
Crosswood, in Welsh Traws-coed, one of the seats
of
satires against him, that immediately after he had heard it re-
pealed aloud by the author, he fell down and expired. Da-
fydd ab Gwilym's fine person rendered him a great favourite
with the fair sex, and if all the tales related of him be true, his
amours were not a little licentious. On one occasion he made
an^ppointment with each of his mistresses, to meet him at the
same hour under a particular tree, to which none of them was
a stranger. In order to witness the event of this congress be
hid himself in the branches, where he could observe and hear
all that passed. The damsels came, and were not a little sur-
prised and vexed to discover the trick, of which they had been
made the dupes. They immediately determined on revenge,
and agreed to put the poet to death", the first opportunity that
offered. The bard, however, contrived by some extempore
couplets, which he pronounced from his hiding place, to fire
them with jealousy, and to excite them to vent their rage on
one another. During the confusion which ensued, he was
enabled to retreat in safety. Dafydd ab Gwilym became ena-
moured of Morfudd, the daughter of Madog Lawgam, of
Anglesey, to whom jie was united in a manner not uncommon
in those days, by a bard under a tree. This ceremony not
being considered valid by the lady's friends, they contrived to
take her away, and marry her to a wealthy deformed old man,
called CynfrigCynin. Her former lover, however, continued
his
WALES.
691
of the Earl of Lisburne. The park, which is exten-
sive, is eligibly situated near the banks of the Yst-
wyth. The house is an old, and by no means a
convenient building. — In the church-yard of Llan-
fihangel Lledrod, some distance from Crosswood,
on the other side of the Ystwyth, are deposited,
without stone or epitaph, the remains of the Rev.
Evan Evans, the author, of " Specimens of the
Poetry of the ancient Welsh Bards," &c. and equally
distinguished for his genius as a poet, and his know-
ledge of the British language and antiquities'. —
The old mansion of Ffos y Bleiddiaid in this pa-
rish, occupied as a farm-house, belongs to the
ancient family of the Lloyds, of Mabus. In the
church-yard of the adjoining parish of Llanwnws,
is an ancient monumental stone, supposed by the
inhabitants to commemorate a chief of the name of
Caradoc, who is reported by tradition to have been
drowned in a pool in the neighbourhood, thence
called Pvvll Caradoc, or Caradoc's Pool. — In this
neighbourhood is Ystrad-meirig, the castle of which
is frequently mentioned in the Welsh annals. The
remains are inconsiderable, consisting of only a
part of the keep. It was built by Gilbert, Earl of
Clare, and was probably intended for a kind of out-
post to his castle of Aberystwyth, to defend the
pass through these mountains. — In the village, is
an excellent grammar-school, endowed for the gra-
tuitous education of 32 poor boys, natives of this
county, inv the Latin language. Another endow-
ment, for 40 poor boys, in the adjoining parish of
Llanfihangel Lledrod, has been incorporated with
it. This has formed for many years one of the best
classical schools in the principality ; and it is one of
the schools licensed for the education of young men
for the ministry in the church of England. The
founder of the establishment was Edward Richards,
a native of this parish. — About three miles to the
south-eastward of Ystrad Meirig, once stood the
celebrated abbey of Ystrad-fflur, or Strata Florida,
of which some inconsiderable fragments yet remain
to point out the ground it occupied. If allowance
be made for the wildness of the adjacent country,
the situation of this abbey may be said to have been
•well chosen. On three sides it is surrounded by an
amphitheatre of lofty hills, while on the other the
•vale of the Teivi spreads before it, and displays a
tolerable degree of fertility. The buildings were at
one time of considerable extent, and architectural
magnificence, but at present the only portion re-
maining entire is a beautiful arched gateway. —
" The walls had glazed tiles affixed to them, in the
style of the paintings we meet with in old missals,
marked with quatrefoils ; and these are frequently
his attentions, and at length eloped with her. This affair caused
thim to be thrown into prison, from which he was liberated by
he generosity of the men of Glamorgan, who, out of esteem,
for his talents, purchased his liberation. On the death of (for
and his family, Dafydd retired to his paternal home at Bro
Gynin, where he composed some small pieces, descriptive of
dug up, as are the tiles of the pavement, which con-
sisted of intersecting circles, &c. Painted glass
has also been found ; indeed it seems that no ex-
pense was spared to render this a most magnificent
building. Freestones are dug up, which were or-
namental, having circles touching one another carv-
ed on them." — An old building just by, now used as
a barn, is thought to have formed part of the original
edifice, which escaped the fire in the time of Ed-
ward I. — The present church-yard comprises only
about two acres of ground ; but the ancient ceme-
tery, which was enclosed by a rude wall, is reported
to have extended to 120. Leaden coffins have fre-
quently been dug up here. Leland states, that this
monastery was founded by Rhys ab Tudor ; but he
probably mistook the name for that of Rhys ab
Gruffydd, who, as appears from some official do-
cuments yet extant, granted a charter for the pur-
pose in the year 1164. In the wars whieh took
place between the English monarchs and the
Welsh princes, this house repeatedly suffered great
damage ; and in the time of Edward I. it was ac-
cidentally burnt to the ground, the flames having
probably reached it from the neighbouring woods,
which had been set on fire. Edward I. gave per-
mission to the abbot to rebuild it, and granted the
sum of 78/. towards the expenses. From this time
it continued to flourish, till the dissolution, in the
reign of Henry VIII. — The monks of this house
.were of the Cistercian order. The endowments
were ample, comprehending a vast tract of the sur-
rounding country, besides distant possessions ; and
its establishments were on a corresponding scale.
The numerous Yspyttys, which occur in this county,
were hospitia, or places of shelter and entertainment
for strangers and travellers, when. other houses of
accommodation were unknown. To most of these,
oratories or chapels were annexed, which still exist.
It had besides several other cells, or smaller esta-
blishments, dependant upon it. Gutyn Owain, one
of the most distinguished poets of the 15th century,
and equally celebrated as a herald and historian,
made this his principal residence ; and here he pro-
bably compiled the Genealogical Collections, and
the Sketch of British History, which bear his name,
and are yet preserved. Ystrad-flhtr became cele-
brated as the burying-place of the Welsh princes
and nobility. Some years ago two of the abbey
seals were found in the adjacent lands. One was
circular, about the size of a crown-pi^ce, and bore
the abbey arms'; the other was an elipse, with a
representation of the Madona and child. Near the
abbey is an old mansion, built by John Stedman,
Esq. of Staffordshire.
his feelings, which are admirable for their sweetness and pathos.
He was buried at Ystrad-fflur abbey. His poems are chiefly
of the amatory kind ; and hence he has been called the Welsh
Ovid. A collection of his poems was published in 1789, by
Mr. Owen Jones, and Mr. William Owe;i.
TREGARON
092
WALES.
TREGARON.]— Southward from Ystradd-fflur, is
Tregaron, or Caron's Town, an indifferent village,
situated on the Berwln, which joins the Teivi a little
lower down. It has a market, and it was ouce in-
corporated, and had the privilege of voting in the
election of the member for the borough of Cardi-
gan ; but -on account of some corrupt practices on
one occasion, it was declared by the House of Com-
mons to have forfeited its charter. — A little to the
eastward of the town once stood a house called in
Welsh Porth-y-ffynnon, or Fountain Gate, where
was born Thomas Jones, better known by the
name of Twm Sion Catti, said to have been the
natural son of Sir John Wynne, of Gwydyr. He
flourished between 1590 and 1630, and acquired
considerable reputation as a Welsh antiquary and
poet. He was a robber, of consummate address,
who managed, for a considerable period, to prey
upon his neighbours with complete impunity. By
marrying the heiress of Ystrad-ffin, in the vale of
Towey, he acquired a large fortune, which gave
him sufficient consequence in Carmarthenshire to
procure his appointment to the shrievalty for that
county ; and Twm Sion Catti o Borth-y-ffynnon,
the robber, became Thomas Jones, Esq. of Foun-
tain Gate. — A little to the north-westward of the
village, is an intrenchmeiit of considerable extent,
and many other ancient remains. Llanddewi-Breii,
a place of some notoriety in the ecclesiastical his-
tory of Wales. According to Leland, it was
" caullid Breui bycause it stondith on Breuy-
brooke ;" but the popular legend of the neighbour-
hood assigns another origin to the name. It states
that during the erection of the church, two oxen
were employed to draw stones towards the building :
•having at one time been over laden, one of them
-died in the effort to drag the load up a small hill
which lay in the way. The other, on the loss of his
companion, bellowed nine times, when the hill
opened, and a way was made for him on level
ground, along which he drew the whole load alone
without difficulty. — In 519 a synod was held here
for the purpose of suppressing the Pelagian heresy,
which had at this time re-appeared in the principa-
lity, and was rapidly gaining over new converts.
The church, dedicated to St. David, is built on a
small hill. It is a large Gothic structure, with a
massive square tower at one end, supported by four
Gothic arches. It was originally cruciform, but the
north transept has been for some time in ruins ; and,
ih other respects the edifice has suffered considera-
able dilapidations. Thomas Beck, Bishop of the
diocese, founded here, in 1187, a collegiate esta-
blishment for a precentor and twelve prebendaries,
in honour of St. David, but recommended it to the
patronage of Edward the Confessor. The present
•village consists of a collection of wretched hovels,
scarcely fit for the habitation of human beings. The
hills which enclose it on the north and east are of the
most bleak and desolate character, but on the west
the shores of the Teivi, v\hieh here exhibit some
share of cultivation and fertility, impart to it an
air rather less forbidding. It was recently in con-
templation to establish at this place, under the aus-
pices of the Bishop, a collegiate institution, for the
education of young men, intended for the ministry
of the Church of England. — Below Llanddewi-
Brefi, on the eastern bank of the Teivi, are the ruins
of an ancient and magnificent mansion, called, from
the parish in which it was situated, Plas Llanfair
y Clydoge, or Plas Llanfair y Clewedogau. On
this estate, now the property of J. Beaduel, Esq.
are some valuable mines, of lead and silver.
CARMARTHENSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.] — The maritime county
of Carmarthen is bounded on the north by Cardi-
ganshire ; on the west by Pembrokeshire ; on the
south by the Bristol Channel ; and on the east by
Glamorganshire and Brecknockshire. In form, it
approaches that of an irregular parallelogram, 50
miles in length by 25 in width. Its superficial con-
tents, according to Gary, amount to 512,000 acres ;
but, according to the latest official admeasurement,
to 592,640. The air of Carmarthenshire is esteemed
milder, and more salubrious, than that of most of
the neighbouring counties. The chief rivers are the
Towy, the Cothy, and the Tave. The Towy, which
is a considerable river, rises in Cardiganshire,
enters this county at the north-east side, and run-
ning south-south-west, falls into the English Chan-
nel about eight miles below Carmarthen. The
Cothy rises on the north side of this county, and runs
mostly in a southern course, till it joins the Towy
about five miles above Carmarthen. The Tave, or
Teivy, rises in Cardiganshire, and soon after be-
comes the boundary between that county and Car-
marthenshire, the north-west side of which it waters,
till joined by the Keach, after which it parts this
county from Pembrokeshire. Its less remarkable
rivers are the Dulas, the Brane, the Guendrath-
vawr, the Cowen, the Towa, and the Amond. —
The lakes of this county are not remarkable for
extent or interest ; yet it contains ^some which are
not altogether undeserving of notice. Llyn Teg-
wyn, Pwll yr Escob, or the Bishop's Pool, at the
northern extremity, and on the highest elevation of
Mynydd Mawr, or the Great Mountain, a few miles
to the westward of Llandybie, is plentifully stored
with fish. Another lake, abounding with trout of
a superior quality, and eels of extraordinary size,
occurs on the Black Mountain, near the borders of
Brecknockshire, at the foot of the almost perpen-
dicular declivity of the Carmarthenshire Fan or
beacon, so elevated in its situation, that the snow
remains undissolved on its shores during seven
months of the year. The awful grandeur of the
precipitous rocks which overhang the lake render
the surrounding scenery indescribably romantic.
At the base of a considerable hill, near Edwinsford,
the seat of Sir J. II. Williams, ou the banks of the
Cot by,
WALES.
Cothy, and close (0 (h6 ruins of Talley Abbey, are |
two other lakes; but tbo strait by which they com-
municate is so small, that they present the appear-
ance of an unbroken sheet of water. Carmarthen-
shire may be termed a hilly, rather than a moun-
tainous district. On the north, a broken chain,
connected with Plinliinmori in Cardiganshire, skirts
the borders of the county from Brecknockshire to j
the sea ; forming, in the greater part of its range, i
one side of the vale of Teivy. On the eastward, |
the county is shut in by the long chain called the j
Black Mountain, which stretches into Monmouth- |
shire ; and it is supposed that the highest ground j
in Carmarthenshire is to be found here, on the i
summit of the Fan, or Beacon, the height of which
has been estimated nt 2600 feet above the level of
the sea. Bettws Mountain, forming part of another
chain, stands further to the southward, on the bor-
ders of Glamorganshire. — The soils of this county
are much varied ; consequently no one system of
husbandry can be universally applicable. Gene-
rally speaking, the land is fertile ; and it may be
remarked, that much of the variety which distin-
guishes the soil arises from the difference in the
sub-strata whereon it rests ; the lands which cover
the coal and other minerals being, in most instances,
less fertile than those which cover the limestone. —
The farmers, though amongst the best in Wales,
have not yet been prevailed upon to spare and re-
cruit the earth by the alternation of green with
white crops. By the settlement, however, of some
intelligent Norfolk farmers, great improvements
have been effected. Most of the agricultural im-
plements in use are of an improved construction.
Lime, though in many places brought from a con-
siderable distance, is the prevalent manure ; but the
system of soiling and littering is considerably gain-
ing ground. Of late years, great progress has been
made in the enclosure and cultivation of wastes ;
notwithstanding which, a large extent of country
lias been left to the occupation of sheep. The
native sheep of Carmarthenshire are small, and of
a degenerate breed; but, by crossing with the South-
downs, much improvement in their size and quality
are at this time effecting. The cattle are of a mid-
dling size ; but, on some of the richer lands in the
vales, beasts of the largest breed ar'e occasionally
reared. The horses also are of a middling size :
those which are employed in agricultural labour are
mostly compact and bony : successful exertions,
however, have been made to produce a handsome
breed for the saddle. — Leases for short terras are
common ; but the great landed proprietors generally
grant leases for lives, in order to acquire an influ-
ence in the return of the county representative. The
lands vary in value, according to soil, situation, &c.
from a few shillings up to 10/. — Formerly this county
was exceedingly well wooded ; of late years, how-
ever, great waste has been made of the timber.
There are several marble quarries in Carmarthen-
shire, the produce of which is chiefly wrought into
L. iv. — NO. 190.
chimney-pieces, and exported to Bristol. Coals,
of an excellent quality, with lead and iron ores, aro
also found. Petrifactions, or impressions of fossil
plants, in coal slate, are occasionally found in th«
veins which overlay the coals. — Amongst the nume-
rous mineral springs, possessedofiredic-inalqualities,
which exist in various parts of the county, may b*
mentioned two, very strongly impregnated with
sulphur, in the parish of Cynwyl Gaeo. In the
same parish is a fine chalybeate spring, and in the
parish of Cynwyl F,lvcd, is another of the same
nature. The waters most in repute are situated
within the precincts of Middleton park, about seven
miles above Carmarthen. They have been pronounced
by scientific men to be a chalybeate in every respect
similar to the Tunbridge waters, except that they
hold in solution a larger proportion of iron, and are
therefore more powerful. Warm and cold baths have
been formed on the spot, with every necessary ac-
commodation for valetudinarians. — Of this county,
iron is the chief manufacture ; and its commerce
arises in a great measure from the exportation of
that article in a wrought state. An extensive coast-
ing trade is also carried on from the ports of Lla-
nelly and Kidwelly, in coals and stone, and consi-
derable quantities of corn and butter are conveyed to
Bristol, from Carmarthen and St. dear's. This
county has no canals, excepting one of inconsider-
able length at Kidwelly, for the purpose of con-
veying coal from the pits to the shipping in the
harbour ; but there are several rail-roads in different
parts to connect the mines in the interior with the?
coast ; and, taking into account the number of stage
waggons, and two mail coaches which arrive every
morning at Carmarthen, the district may be consi-
dered to possess considerable facilities for the appli-
cation of commercial industry. The county is
intersected in almost every direction by excellent
turnpike roads, the number of which has been
greatly increased within the last twenty or thirty
years.
Of the history of this district, antecedently t»
the subjugation of South Wales by the Romans,
nothing is known, excepting that it was inhabited
by a people called the Demetae, the Difed of British
writers. There has been much diversity of opinion
respecting the etymology of its name. It has been
usual to derive it from Caer Ferddin, the city of
Merddin, or Merlin, the far-famed British prophet ;
but it has been justly objected, that Carmarthen was
so called before the birth of Merlin, who was named
after the city, and not the city after him. The
etymology seems to have been referred, with greater
propriety, to Caer Mur Din, a fortified city, sur-
rounded by a wall ; a description which corresponds
with the Muridunum of Antoninus, by general con-
sent identified with the town of Carmarthen, and
also with the description of Giraldus.
The modern division of this county is into the
following eight hundreds : — Carnwallon, Cathinog,
Cayo, Derllys, Elvet, Iskennen, Kidw«lly, and Per-
8 K fedd-
WALES.
fedd. The hundreds, according to (he latest popu-
lation returns, are subdivided into 37 parishes, and
5 parts of parishes ; but, according to some state-
ments, the number is more than doubled. It contains
one borough (Carmarthen) and five other market-
towns, viz. Kidwel)y,Llandilovaur, Llanelthy, Llan-
garn, and Llandimclovery. The population of Car-
marl henshire, in the year 1700, was 49,700 ; in 17-50,
62,000 ; in 1801, «9,600 ; and, in 1811, making
the proper allowance for absentees in the army and
navy, 79,800. — The number of petty sessions in this
county is eight, and that of acting magistrates fifty -
one.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
ABERGWILY.] — This village, a mile from Carmar-
then, is entitled to notice only on account of its
church and the palace of the Bishop of St. David's,
the only episcopal residence belonging to the dio-
cese, which stands near it. The church, a plain
edifice, is divided in the interior by a range of
pointed arches, supported by thick octagonal pillars.
Dr. Beck, Bishop of St. David's, made this church
collegiate in 1287, for twenty-two prebendaries,
four priests, four choristers, and two clerks, to the
honour of St. Maurice. Bishop Gower, in 1334,
ordained that in addition to the former establish-
ment, it should contain a precentor, chancellor, and
treasurer. Henry VIII. removed this college to
Brecknock. The palace, which had suffered greatly
from neglect, was first rendered habitable, after the
civil wars, by Bishop Offley, about the year 1715 ;
and, about 15 or 18 years ago, it was thoroughly
repaired and modernized by Lord George Murray,
who also imparted to the grounds a degree of ele-
gance and comfort before unknown. From the
lowness of its situation, the house enjoys little beau-
ty of prospect ; but a noble bend of the river
Towey, in front, constitutes a very pleasing object.
CARMARTHEN.] — Carmarthen, the metropolis of
the county, and at one time of the kingdom of
South Wales, is situated at the distance of 18
miles from Lampeter, and 220 from London, in a
valley on the banks of the Towey, over which it
has a fine stone bridge of six arches, besides four at
the south end to allow the water to pass during
floods. The situation commands some very fine
scenery. All the principal streets have a large
proportion of good houses, several of which are oc-
cupied by persons not engaged in business, and the
others by respectable tradesmen. The chief public
edifice is the Guild Hall, standing in the middle of
the town. This is a large, handsome, modern
building, raised upon pillars, and having a covered
market-place beneath. A new, grand staircase, in
the front, is highly ornamental. The County Gaol,
occupying part of the site of the castle, is a sub-
stantial well-constructed building ; the architecture
of which is peculiarly appropriate. It was con-
structedon the plan of the philanthropic Howard.—
A few years ago an excellent market-place was
built by the corporation, out of the town. — The
streets present no regular plan ; but it is evident
that the main streets led to the principal entrances
of the castle. The communication with the country
on the eastward is formed by the bridge already
mentioned. At the upper end of the town is a beau-
tiful public walk called the Parade, which overlooks
a fine reach of the river, and commands an extensive
view. The length of the town, from north-east to
south-west, is about three-fourths of a mile, and its
width half a mile. It was formerly surrounded by
a high wall, with fortified gates at the different en-
trances, softie of which were standing not many
years since. The town was badly supplied with
water, till the corporation adopted a plan proposed
by Sir W. Paxton, during his mayoralty in 1803,
to furnish the inhabitants from some excellent
springs in the neighbourhood. By means of iron
pipes, laid in various directions, it is now conveyed
to every part of the town. In 1811, the population
of Carmarthen was estimated at 7275. — Here are
no manufactories of consequence ; but, in the vi-
cinity, are some iron and tin works, belonging to-
Messrs. Morris and Co. on an extensive scale. — •
Carmarthen is a very flourishing place. It supplies
the neighbouring country with shop goods of va-
rious descriptions to a large annual amount, and
carries on an extensive export trade in corn, but-
ter, &c. to Bristol, and other English ports. Ves-
sels of about three hundred tons burden are ad-
mitted to the town, which has a very handsome and
substantial quay. The inns are numerous. The
Ivy Bush, one of the best in the principality, was
formerly a gentleman's residence,! n one of the most
delightful situations in the town. A weekly news-
paper has been published here for some years. —
Several of the privileges of the borough are very
ancient, and of unknown origin. ts first incorpo-
ration is probably to be ascribed to Edward I. As
early as the reign of Henry_ VI. it had its mayor
and sheriff's, who possessed a jurisdiction separate
from that of the county. The first charter, on re-
cord, was granted by Henry VIII. and bears date
the 17th of May, 1540. It was then ordained, that
the body corporate should consist of the mayor,
burgesses, and commonalty of the borough ; and
the burgesses were to elect annually two officers
under the name of bailiffs. James I. confirmed this
charter, and ordained besides that the borough should
form a distinct county, under the title of the County
of the Borough of Carmarthen, providing, in con-
sequence of this alteration, that instead of bailiffs
the burgesses should every year choose two sheriffs.
This charter continued in force, till 1764, when
difficulties having occurred respecting some of its
provisions, the inhabitants obtained a new charter,
providing that the burgesses shall annually choose
out of their number, a competent person to execute
the office of mayor ; and elect twenty others as
common council men, to assist the chief magistrate
• in
WALES.
695
in the discharge of his civic duties. The other of-
ficers comprise two sheriffs, who are charged with
the same duties, and invested with the same au-
thority, as county sheriffs ; a recorder, town clerk,
and sword-bearer, " who i'reely and with impunity
may bear or carry the sword before the mayor of the
said borough, for the time belli"-, as in our city of
London is used and accustomed," and two sergeants
at mace. The sheriffs are to be chosen annually
with the mayor ; the other officers, though appointed
for life, are removeable at the pleasure of the corpo-
ration. The mayor and sheriffs must be resident
within the borough, under a penalty 'of 100/. A
fine of 100/. is imposed upon persons who decline
accepting either of the office of mayor, or of sheriff,
after having been regularly chosen. The burgesses
are further authorized to elect annually six " Peers,"
who are empowered to act as justices of the peace
within the borough, where the county magistrates
have no jurisdiction. Tlie mayor is invested with
the office of clerk of the market, and coroner, within
the borough ; and of king's admiral on the Towey,
from Carmarthen bridge to the sea. The burgesses
are exempted from serving on juries, except within
the borough, and in causes which relate to it ; and
are freed from all tolls, and local duties, throughout
the kingdom. The revenues of the borough are con-
siderable, arising partly from the tolls of the markets,
but principally from the lands held by the corporation.
Carmarthen Church, dedicated to St. Peter, near
the north-eastern extremity of the town, is a large
plain edifice, having two aisles, and a chancel, with
a lofty square tower at the western end. It was
formerly cruciform ; but, becoming too small for
the accommodation of the inhabitants, the south
wall was removed with a view to its enlargement,
and an additional aisle made on that side. The in-
terior is peculiarly neat, and it has a handsome fine
toned organ. The most remarkable monument is
one of Sir Rhys ab Thomas and his lady, on the
north side of the chancel. It measures 11 feet 10
inches in length, l;y 6 feet 3 inches in breadth, and
0 feet in height, and is of the altar form. The top
is occupied by two recumbent figures, representing
the distinguished personages whom it commemo-
rates. The male figure is clothed in a suit of plate
armour, and bears the insignia of knighthood, and
of the order of the garter. At the head, resting
upon a lion's skin, is placed the shield, emblazoned.
At the feet is a lion couchant. The female figure,
in the costume of the time, had formerly a dove at the
feet. — Nearly opposite, is another monument, bear-
ing a grotesque figure of a female in the act of kneel-
ing, and underneath is the following inscription :
Kincle Reader Vnderneath this Tombe doth lye
A choice Elixar of Mortalitie
By carefiill prpuidencc Create Wealth did store
For her Relations and the Poore
In Essex borne But spent her gainful! Dayes
In Terracoed to her Etrnall prayse
Where by her loanes in spite of Aduerse fates
She did preserue Mens persons and Estates,.
A Create Exemplar to onr Nation
Her to imi'.ali- ih life aiul Action,
Would you iht-n know who was this !>po<l Woman
Twas virtuous ANNE the I.a.iy VAUGIIAN.
She DlE.n AVCVST THE 13 ANNo 1672
Being AGED 84 Yt,u<ts.
Sir Richard Steele was buried here, in the ceme-
tery of the Scurlocks, with whom he had been con-
nected by marriage.
Carmarthen has a Presbyterian chapel, a Baptist
meeting house, a Wesleyan chapel, &c. ; and the
Presbyterians have here a very respectable collegi-
ate institution for the education of young men for
the ministry, supported by a public fund in the me-
tropolis. Dr. Rees, the editor of the New Cyclo-
paedia, has long been one of the visitors. The es-
tablishment consists of two tutors, and twelve di.-
vinity students. There-is a grammar school con-
nected with this institution, but it is not endowed.
Young men who do not find it convenient to go to
the universities, are educated for the ministry in the
established church at an excellent grammar school
in this town, originally endowed by Dr. Owen,
Bishop of St. David's.
The Priory stood at some distance to the north-
eastward of the church, in a part which formerly
constituted a township of itself, under the denomi-
nation of Old Carmarthen. Part of an arched
gateway, and a portion of one of the wings of the
building, still remain. — Neither the date nor the
founder of this establishment is known, but it existed
before the year 1148. It was dedicated to St. John
the Evangelist, and founded for six black canons.
At the other end of the town, on the south side of
Lammas Street, stood a house of Grey Friars,
which was founded as a cell to the monastery of
St. Augustin at Bristol. In the centre of the town,
behind the Guild Hall, once stood a church or chapel,
dedicated to St. Mary ; of which, some vestiges
m;-.y yet be traced. Thfc few remains of the castle
which now exist, convey but an inadequate idea of
its ancient magnificence and strength. The situa-
tion, in every respect excellent, was on the brow of
a lofty hill rising abruptly from the river, and ca-
pable of being, without much difficulty, rendered
impregnable on every side. The ground plan was
nearly square, extending in one direction from the
brow of the hill overlooking the bridge to the front
of the present gaol, and in the other, from the back
of the houses at the Market Cross, to the road lead-
ing from the river towards Spilman's Street. This
area was enclosed on three sides, the south-west,
south-east, and north-east, by lofty walls, fortified
in the middle by semicircular bastions, and defended
at the southern angle by a strong square tower, and
at the western and eastern angles, by round towers
of similar strength. The north-western front, which
faced the present fish market, contained the grand
entrance, which was protected by an advanced gate-
way. The citadel and all the principal buildings
were in the northern angle. During the civil wars of
Charles,
€9<5
WALES.
Charles, it was taken by the Parliament forces under
General Langhorne; and it was probably dismantled
shortly afterwards. A part of the citadel was, how-
ever, used as a common gaol, until it was super-
seded about 25 years ago by the present edifice.
This castle is frequently mentioned in the Welsh
annals ; but nothing appears to be known as to the
period of its first erection.
Antiquaries, as has been already stated, are now
agreed in fixing here the Roman city of Muridunum.
From the junction at this point of the two grand
branches of the Julian way, which communicated
with England, and the other roads leading to the
Roman establishments in Pembrokeshire and Car-
diganshire, there can br> little doubt but that a camp
was formed here, as early as the time of Julius
Trontinus, about the year 70, which soon became
the most important station in South Wales. There
are still visible, in a field on the northern side of
the town, called the Bulrack, or Bulwark, the re-
mains of a Roman camp, of which the Praetorium,
or general's station, is plainly to be distinguished
"by the superior elevation of the ground. Traces
of a causeway leading to this camp, in a direction
nearly parallel with the Priory Street, have also
been discovered. The situation of this encampment
clearly points it out to have been a Campus jEsti-
vus, occupied by the military during the summer
months, when they had no immediate apprehension
of an enemy. Several coins, bricks, and other
vestiges of tbe Roman occupation of this place
liave been discovered.
Amongst the distinguished natives of the town
.of Carmarthen, may be mentioned the celebrated
prophet Merlin, * and Dr. Lewis Bayly, Bishop of
.Bangor, in the reign of James I.f
CLEAR'S.] — St. dear's, or St. Clare's, a long
straggling village, nine miles from Carmarthen,
stands on a promontory formed by the rivers Taf
and Cathgenny. A castle, frequently noticed in tjie
Welsh annals, formerly stood near the. junction of
these streams ; but its site is now indicated only
by an artificial mound of earth. A considerable
coasting trade in corn, butter, &c. is carried on
here. In the village, are SOUK- remains of an alien
priory, founded in the lath century.
CYNWIL GAEO.] — Seven miles from Llandovery,
proceeding towards Cardiganshire, stands Dol y
Cothy, the seat of John Johnes, Esq. which is
pleasantly situated near the river from which it
derives its name. The parish of Cynvvil Gaeo, in
which this residence is placed, contains some vestiges
of Roman works. At a place called Macs Llan
* Ambrose Merlin, a British writer, who Hvecl about the
vest 480, was regarded in his time, as a magician and prophet.
The idlest tales are told of him by sortie ancient writers, such
as that he was engendered of an incubus, and that he conveyed,
by inchantment, the stupendous stones on Salisbury plain from
Ireland There also pass under his name some extravagant
prediction*.
$ Dr. Bayly, who wrote that well known book, " The
Wrthwl, a great battle is said (o haVe been fought
between the Roma«s and Britons, at which tlte
Roman commander Paulinus fell. A monumental
stone, to the memory of thut chief, now forms thfe
threshold of the door of a gentleman's house ! Jn
the neighbourhood are several tumuli, and Roman
bricks are frequently turned up. According to tra-
dition, this is the seat of a Roman city, which thp
inhabitants call " Tre Goch yn Neheuharih," the
Red City of the South. Extensive mines were
wrought by the Romans in this parish; and there-
are still to be seen the remains of an aqueduct, con-
structed with immense labour, to convey the waters
of the Colhy to the excavations, to wash away the
dross from the ore. About 3000 copper coins, com-
prising some of Gallienus, Saloniua, and several
of the thirty tyrants, were found here in the year
1702 ; and many Roman ornaments have since been
dug up ;• amongst others, a golden torques, bearing
a curiously wrought fisjnre of a serpent, and another
with the figure of a dolphin ; also an amethyst, with
a very valuable antique of Diana, found in the upper
surface of a coarse common pebble, dug out of a
pit among some gravel which was raised for the
repair of the road. — In this neighbourhood, south-
eastward, is Edwihslord, in Welsh Rhydd Odin>
the seat of Sir J. H. Williams, Bart. It is situated
on the eastern bank of the Colhy, which is here a
beautiful stream ; and the house is approached by a
lofty avenue of trees. The mansion and the grounds
present an appearance of ancient magnificence. — -
Proceeding towards Llandeiln, about a mile from
Edwinsford Park, are two lukes on the right, already
described, which indicate an approach to the Abbey
of Talley. This edifice stood at some distance trom
the turnpike road, and was pleasantly situated at the
eastern extremity of the lower lake, looking towards
the vales of Towejl and Cothy, and having a bold
mountain immediately behind. The present parish
church was constructed some years ago out of the
ruins ; and there are still considerable remains of
the old building. This abbey was founded by Rhys
ah Gruffydd, the last prince of South Wales, for
Premonstrntensian monks, and made subject to the
abbey of Welheck in Nottinghamshire, the chief of
the order in England. At the Dissolution, its pos-
sessions were conferred on the family of Abermar-
lais. Talley is an abbreviation of Tal y Llydiau,
the head of the Lakes. Near Talley, on an emi-
nence commanding a part of the vnle of Towey,
stands Talinris, the seat of Lord Robert Seymour ;
the grounds of which are well wooded ; but its
situation must, on the whole» be regarded -as
Practice of Piety," was educated at Oxford. He was made
Bishop of Bangor in 1616, and died in 1632. He left four
sons ; of whom, Thomas, the youngest, educated at Cam-
bridge, became sub-dean of Wales in 1638. He afterwards
turned Roman Catholic, and published some works in vindica-
tion of his new faith, for which he was imprisoned in Newgate,
but effected his escape, and went abroad, where he dted-about
the year 1657.
inferior
WALES.
C97
inferior to that of most of the mansions in the
county.
KIDWELLY.] — Kid welly, or Cydweli, a town of
some antiquity and note, 22 miles from Swansea,
and 226 from Lundon, stands on both sides of the
lesser Gwendraeth, which is here crossed by a hand-
some stone bridge. It is divided into the New and
Old Town ; the former standing on the eastern bank
of the river, and the latter, on the western. Old
Kidwelly was, at one time, surrounded by a wall,
which had three gates, over one of which, in Leland's
time, were the ruins of a town hall, with a prison
underneath. Part of one of the gates is yet stand-
ing ; but the township has decayed, in consequence
of the situation of the New Town being found more
convenient. This place formerly had a flourishing
trade, but the navigation of the river having been
obstructed by a sand bank, its commerce became
inconsiderable. Of late years, however, it lias
recovered some of its ancient importance, able
engineers having effected a considerable improve-
ment of the port. The neighbourhood is rich in
coals and iron ore, and some iron and tin manufac-
tories have been long carried on here. — About a
mile and a half below the town, the Gwendraeth
falls into the Gwendraeth Fawr; which junction is
supposed to have given rise to its name ; Cydweli,
in Welsh, signifying to go into one bed, to join,
both falling together into Carmarthen Bay. — The
town, which was incorporated in the reign of Henry
VI. is governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, twelve
common councilmen, a clerk of the peace, town
clerk, two bailiffs, two sergeants at mace, and four
constables. The mayor, while in office, is a justice
of the peace and justice of the quorum, and holds a
court once a fortnight. The population amounted,
in 1811, to 1441. The church stands in the New
Town : it is a plain structure, with only one aisle,
and two ruined transepts, with a tower at the western
end, surmounted by a handsome spire 165 feet in
height. Over the entrance is a figure of the Virgin
Mary. The only ancient remain in the interior is a
sepulchral effigies of a priest, with an illegible
inscription. On the same side of the river once
stood a priory, founded about the year 1130, by
Roger, Bishop of Salisbury, for Benedictine monks,
subject to the abbey of Sherborne, in Dorsetshire.
- —Kidwelly Castle occupies a bold rooky eminence,
* Dr. Josiah Tucker, clean of Gloucester, was born at
Laugharne, in 1712. His father, a farmer, luiving inherited a
small estate in Cardiganshire,, sent Josiah to Ruthin school,
» litre he soon distinguished himself, and obtained an exhibition
in Jesus College, Oxford, whither he proceeded, with his bundle
at the end of his stick. He took orders in 1735, and settled
on a curacy in Gloucestershire. In 1737 he removed to
Bristol, and became a minor canon of the cathedral. He was
soon afterwards appointed chaplain to the Bishop, who procured
for him the first vacant prebendal stall ; in addition to which,
he held the rectory of St. Stephen's in that city, of which he
had before been curate. He first raised himself to public
notice, as a literary character, by the publication of his letters
VOL. IV. — NO. 101.
on the western side of Gwendraeth fychan. Its
exterior is grand and imposing, and the remains aro
in a better state than those of any similar structure
in the principality. The ground plan is nearly
square. At each of the angles is a strong round
tower, and the walls which form the enclosure arc
farther defended by other towers of smaller dimen-
sions. Several of the apartments are entire. The
principal entrance was from the west, where a mag-
nificent gateway, between two lofty round towers,
is still standing. The first castle erected here is
said to have been built by William de Londres, one
of the Norman knights who assisted Robert Fitz^
hainon, in the conquest of Glamorgan, and who
in the year 1091, led a powerful force into Gower,
Kidwelly, and Ystrad Tywi, and established himself
in this place. It was given by Henry VII. to Sir
Rhys al) Thomas ; on the attainder of whose grand-
son, Rhys ab Grutfydd, it came into the possession
of the Golden Grove family, and on the death of
the late John Vaughan, Esq. it became the property
of his devisee Lord Cawdor.
JLAUGHARNE.] — Laugharne, or Talacharn, situated
at the end of a large bay, near the confluence of the
river Corwen, or Corran, and the Taf, and at their
junction with the sea, has been variously designated :
its present names are corruptions of Tal y llychau,
the head of the lakes, the bay on 'which it stands
exhibiting at high water the appearance of an inland
sea ; but, in the Welsh annals, it is frequently called
Aber Corran. The town, though of small extent,
contains a large proportion of respectable houses,
and its general appearance is neat and prepossessing.
Its population, in 181 1, was 1561. It is governed
by a portrieve ; its other officers consisting of a
recorder, aldermen, two common attornies, four
constables, &c. This little corporation holds some
lands in the neighbourhood, which were given for
the use of the burgesses in the reign of King John,
by Sir Guido de Brian. The town is supposed to
have been first incorporated in his time. His purple
mantle, richly embroidered with gold, is carefully
preserved in the church. Here are the remains of
a fine castle, in high preservation, within the plea-
sure grounds of Mnjor Starke. This structure is*
supposed to have been built by some of the Anglo-
Norman settlers, who invaded this coast soon after
the conquest of .England, by William I.* A little
to
in favour of tbe celebrated bill for the naturalization of the
Jews, which exposed him to great odium, and caused him to
j be burnt in effigy at Bristol. He appeased the resentment of
his fellow citizens, by the publication of a pamphlet on the
Turkey trade, in which he argued against the policy of en-
couraging chartered companies. lu consequence Ojf the service
lie rendered to Lord Clare, afterwards Earl Nugent, in his
election for Bristol, that nobleman procured for him the deanery
of Gloucester ; on which occasion he took his doctor's degree.
| He wrote about this time a Treatise on Commerce, for the use
of his late majesty, at the request of his tutor, Dr. Hayter,
afterwards Bishop of London. This work wus never published.
j His subsequent writings were very numerous, but they related
8 a chiefly
608
WALES.
to the westward of Laugharne, are the remains of
Broadway House, the seat of Sir John Powell, one
of the judges of the court of King's Bench, who
presided at the memorable trial of the seven bishops
in ttie reign of James II. He died in 1696, and
was buried at Laugharne, where there is a monu-
ment to his memory. Ascending the Tale of the
Taf, five miles from St. dear's, stood the celebrated
abbey of Whitland, Ty gwyn ar Daf, or the White
House on the Taf. Situated in a sequestered valley,
it was sheltered by majestic groves. The remains
are sufficient only to mark the site. This house is
stated to have beau the first religious establishment
of the kind founded in Wales after the destruction
of the famous monastery of Bangor. It was dedi-
cated to St. Mary, and contained eight monks. —
Near this house stood the famous Ty Gwyn, or
White House, of Hywel Dda, where he assembled
the wise men of his dominions to compile the code
of laws which bears his name. There is an ancient
encampment at Kilymaenllwyd, in the neighbouring
parish of Llanbeudy ; and near the same spot is a
large druidica! circle, 60 feet in diameter, called
Buarth Arthur, and sometimes Meini Gwyr. Another
remain of a similar character exists in this neigh-
bourhood, called Gwael y Fil ast, or Bwrdd Arthur,
Arthur's Table. This is a large cromlech, consisting
of a rough flat stone, ten yards in circumference,
and about three feet thick, which is supported by
four others, about three feet high, placed perpen-
dicularly in the ground.
LLANUEILO FAWR.] — Llandeilo Fawr, 17 miles
from Carmarthen, though containing only 184
houses, with 776 inhabitants; is one of the chief
market towns in the county. The streets are irre-
gular and ill-built, but some good houses occasion-
ally occur. The town occupies an elevated spot on
the western bank of the Towey, commanding a
delightful prospect of the vale in both directions,
with a fine view to the eastward of the hilly region
chiefly to passing events. In 1772 he published " An Apology
for the Church of England," occasioned by the exertions which
were then making to obtain a reform of the articles. He also
addressed a letter to Dr. Kippis, in reply to that gentleman's
vindication of the Protestant dissenting ministers, who had
applied to the legislature tor some modification of the act of
toleration, and an exemption from the subscription, which that
act required from them to some of the 39 articles. He after-
wards wrote some pieces on the American war, which exposed
him to the resentment of Burke. In 17/7, he published a View
of the difficulties of the Trinitarian, Arian, and Socioian
Systems, with seventeen sermons ; and, during the alarm of
invasion, about 17SO, he exposed the difficulties of the attempt,
in several well written papers under the signature of Cassandra.
In 1781, he wrote a Treatise on Civil Government, in oppo-
sition to the theory of Locke, which was answered by Dr.
Towers. Dr. Tucker died in 1799, atau advanced age, having
been twice married.
* The Dinevor estates, given by Henry VII. to Sir Rhys ab
Thomas, descended, with his other possessions, to his grandson
Rhys ab GrutTyd, from whom, through cruel injustice, they
again reverted to the crown, in the reign of Henry VIII.
Klivs's ancestors had been in the habit of occasionally adding
which divides this county from Glamorganshire
The river is crossed here by a substantial modern
stone bridge, built with so shameful a disregard to
public convenience, owing to a miserable parsimony,
that, from its narrowness, a carriage cannot be
passed upon it, either on foot or on horseback,
without danger. Much attention has been paid of
late years to the improvement of this place. The
access to the bridge has been widened, and its steep-
ness much reduced ; and a communication has been
opened with the other end of the town in a direct
line through the church-yard, instead of the old way
along its eastern wall. The church is a low build-
ing, near the middle of the town. — Within a short
distance, on a bold precipitous eminence, overlooking
the river, stands the castle of Dinevor, or Dinas-
fawr, celebrated as the habitation of the native
princes, and forming, with its adjacent scenery, one
of the most attractive objects in Wales. Its present
remains, which are not considerable, comprise an
open area or court, about 105 feet in length by about
90 in width, which was enclosed by high walls.
The first castle on this spot was built by Roderic
the Great, and bequeathed by him to his son Cadell,
as the future residence of the princes of South
Wales. It was one of the last places held by the
descendants of Roderic. — Newton House, the man-
sion of Lord Dinevor, at some distance from the
castle, in a secluded part of the grounds, is a plain
square building, with a small turret surmounting
each angle. The park comprises a considerable
extent of ground, which exhibits a rich display of
picturesque beauties. Lord Dinevor is descended
in a direct line from Urien, the prince, or king, of a
small principality called the kingdom of Reged,
which comprised the district between the rivers
Neath in Glamorganshire, and the Towey in Car-
marthenshire. * Giraldus mentions a spring near
Dinevor, which, like the tide, ebbs and flows twice
in twenty-four hours : this spring still exists. In
Ab Urien, or Fitz Uiien, to their names, to shew their descent ;
which designation, having been disused for some lime, was
resumed, probably in a vain frolic, by young Rhys. The
circumstance having been reported to the king, and associated
with the immense possessions and popularity of the family,
was construed into a design to assert the independence of the
principality. It was also supposed, that this was part of a
concerted plan to depose Henry, and bring to the English
throne James V. of Scotland. The plot was further said to be
founded on an old prophecy, that James of Scotland with the
bloody hand, and the Raven, which was Rliys's crest, should
conquer England. On such frivolous grounds was this young
chieftain, himself one of the first commoners in the realm, and
connected by marriage with the family of Howard, arraigned
for high treason, found guilty, and beheaded in 1531. On the
accession of Queen Mary, his son, Gruffyd ab Rhys, had his
blood restored, and received back part of tlie estates; and
Charles I. relinquished to Sir Henry Rice all that were at trftt
time of them in the hands of the crown. The estates thus
restored to the family, valued at about three hundred pounds
a year, constitute their present Welsh territories, and are all
that remain to them of the princely possessions of their an-
cestors.
levelling
WALES.
C09
levelling some ground a few years ago in the
church-yard of Llandyfeisant, where the well is
situated, the foundations of some Roman walls were
discovered ; and it was ascertained that the north-
west corner of the church is placed on part of a
Roman edifice, supposed to have been a temple.
A pot of Roman silver coins was dug up a few
years ago at a short distance from the church, some
of which are now, or were recently, in the possession
of the Rev. Thomas Beynon, the rector.
To the eastward, after crossing the river, and' on
the left, is Tregib, the seat of John W. Hughes,
Esq. About four miles from Llandcilo, in the same
direction, and about a mile to the northward of
the turnpike road, stand the romantic ruins of
Carreg Cennen Castle ; a remarkable fortress,
seated on a lofty insulated rock about 300 feet
in perpendicular height above the river Cennen,
which flows at. its base, and is wholly inaccessible ex-
cept on one side, the approach to which is difficult.
The buildings occupy the whole summit of the pre-
cipice, and cover about an acre of ground. The
castle court, in the interior, is a parallelogram of
about 90 feet in length by about 75 in breadth.
One of the most remarkable circumstances con-
nected with this fortress is the well, which is sup-
posed to have furnished water to the garrison when
in a state of siege. — The only mention of this castle
that occurs in the Welsh annals is the circumstance
noticed by Caradoc, of its being taken by Rhys
Vychan from the English, to whom, out of her
dislike of him, his mother had delivered it. The
time of its erection rests on conjecture. Some
Roman coins of the time of Domitian have been
discovered in the neighbourhood ; and a stone
hatchet, evidently a relic of early antiquity. To the
eastward, on the margin of the Black Mountain,
are some natural baths, once greatly resorted to
for the cure of paralytic affections ; but their repu-
tation is now in a great degree lost. There are
some remarkable excavations in the ground near
this place, supposed to have been made by the j
Aborigines of the island for the purpose of habita-
tions.— About a mile to the southward of Carreg
Cennen Castle is a farm-house, called " Cwrt bryn
y Beirdd," the site having been formerly a bardic
residence ; as was Derwydd, another old mansion
=rrr=z±^rrr^=^^^^^^=^3= ^ j
* Jolin Dyer, born in 1700, was the second son of Robert
Dyer, Esq. a soVicitor of eminence. From Westminster school
he returned to the principality ; but the study of the law not
according with his taste, and' his father dying soon after his
return, he declined the profession, resolved to turn painter,
and became a pupil to Mr. Richardson, an. artist high in repu-
tation in Lincoln's Inn Fields. He subsequently became an
itinerant painler in South Wales. About the year 1726, he
wrote his " Grongar Hill," which was first written and pub-
lished as an irregular ode, in a volume of miscellanies, under
the auspices of Savage. He afterwards went to Italy, with a
view to his improvement in his profession, and during his
residence there formed the plan of his " Ruins of Rome," a-
poem which he published on his return in 1740, His health
declining, and his attachment to books increasing, he quitted
near this spot. — The village' of Llandybie, on the
turnpike road, about two miles farther to the east-
ward, is about five miles from Llandeilo. The
church is a plain structure, with a lofty square
steeple. Here is a good inn, much frequented in
the shooting season ; and the neighbourhood con-
tains some respectable old mansions, (ilynhir, the
seat of W. Dtibaison, Esq. is occasionally visited
by travellers on account of some beautiful waterfalls
in the grounds. — Golden Grove, on the return
towards Llandeilo, belongs to Lord Cawdor. —
Here is a beautiful drinking horn, richly mounted
on a silver stand, which was presented by the Earl
of Richmotrd to one of his hosts in Cardiganshire,
during his march through that county. It was after-
wards given to Richard, Earl of Carberry, formerly
proprietor of this estate. The house, an indifferent
building, is; badlyi situated 'in 'the low grounds on
the eastern side ' of th'le river Towey, having the
luxuriant woods of Dine'vor Park immediately in
front. Tire celebrated Dr. Jeremy Taylor, Bishop
of Downe and Connor, on the breaking out of the
disturbances1 in the reign of Charles I. was kindly
received at Golden Grove by Richard Vaughan,
Earl of Carberry, in wh&sfe 'family he officiated as
chaplafn.- ' He also employed himself in keeping
school, for the better maintenance of his family ; and
many of his :works were'composed here. — At a short
distance from' Golden Grove is a British encamp-
ment on a small scale ; and, below, on the other
side of the river, stands Aberglasney, the seat of
Thomas Philips, Esq. but anciently the residence
of the Dyer family, and the birth-place of the author
of " Grongar Hill.*" That place, which has derived
a kind of poetical immortality from Dyer's muse, is
an abrupt eminence, not far from the river Towey.
On the summit are some vestiges of a Roman, or
British encampment, consisting of a rectangular
intrenched area, 150 yards in length by 100 yards
in width. From its situation, just below a bold
turn in the vale, Grongar Hill commands a pro-
spect of almost unequalled variety and beauty.
Within these few years, a new and pleasing object
has been added by Sir William Paxton, by the erec-
tion of a lofty tower on a conspicuous summit in
Middleton Hall grounds. — In the neighbourhood of
Aberglasney, near the turnpike road, stands Court
the easel, and entered the church, and married Miss Ensor, of
Warwickshire, whose grandmother was a descendant from
Shakespeare. His first living, (Jolthorp, in Leicestershire,
valued at 80/. a year, he held from 1741 to 1751, when, lie
removed to Belchford, a living of 73/. per annum, near Co-
nfngshy in Lincolnshire, given liim by Lord Chancellor Harc!-
wicke. Sir John Meathcotc afterwards presented him to
Coningsby, worth \'20l. a year; to which Lord Hardwicke
added the living of Kirkley, valued at 110/. a year. "The
Fleece," his largest, last, awd moij elaborate productiou, was
published in 1737. He died soon after its publication, July 24,
1738, in the 58th year of his age. Dyer, in his private cha-
racter, was amiable and respectable ; and he was beloved by
his friends for the gentleness and sweetness of his disposition.
:. 'Jfri'itSMtn ::x! •••$ .:i .: ; ' • ::.• ;: .
Henry,
700
WALES.
Henry, a mansion of some antiquity and note, now
the property of Mr. Dyer, a descendant of the poet's
brother. Amongst other respectable seats in this
•vicinity are, Berllan Dywyll, between Aberglasney
and the river Towey, Pen y Ian, the seat of
Davies, Esq. and Pant glas, the seat of Jones,
Esq. The most striking object,. however, is Drys-
Iwyn Castle, an ancient fortress, which occupies the
summit of a considerable hill, rising like an island
in the middle of a wide opening in the vale of
Towey, and overhanging the western shore of the
river. The origin of this castle is not known > but
it was probably constructed by some of the princes
of Dinevor, with a view to the security of their
adjacent possessions. — On the eastern side of the
river is the pleasant village of Llau Arthne, near
•which stands Middleton Hall, the seat of Sir Wil-
liam Paxton, perhaps the most splendid mansion in
South Wales ; the interijr arrangements and deco-
rations displaying an elegance and taste correspon-
dent with its exterior magnificence. The house,
which was built by Mr. Cockerell, the architect,
about 15 years ago, is situated on a gentle elevation
in the midst of a pleasant vale, which branches oif
to the eastward from the Towey, and forms the
only opening of the kind in the chain of hills on
this side of the river, between Landeilp and the
sea. In addition to the advantages which it derives
from the beauties that surround it, Middleton Hall
is eligibly seated with respect to the public roads,
being within a mile and a half of each of the two
great communications between Milfurd and Lon-
don. Sir William Paxton has paid great attention
to the improvement of the grounds, which are orna-
mented by numerous and flourishing plantations.
The tower, erected after a design by Mr. Cockerell,
is situateit at the noithern extremity of the park,
on an eminence which overlooks the vale of Towey,
and commands a prcspent of astonishing extent.
The building is triangular, to the height of two
stories ; where the walls terminate in an embattled
parapet ; and at each of the angles is a circular
tower, forming the interior into a hexagon. These
towers are continued several feet above the first
parapet. The upper story, hexagonal both within
and without, rises majestically from the triangular
part of the structure, communicating an interesting
nnd picturesque effect to the whole. On theground
floor are three spacious arches, one in each front,
which admit the passage of carriages. The next
story is ;\ lofty and sumptuous banqueting-room ;
and the upper story is taken up by a large, prospect-
room, whence the surrounding country may be
viewed in every direction. On the summit of the
building is a flat roof, accessible to visitors. The
tower is dedicated to the memory of Lord Nelsoo;
and the upper apartment contains some appropriate
devices. One of the widows, composed entirely of
painted glass, contains, in the centre pane a portrait
of the hero; another pane underneath exhibits the
cockpit scene, presenting him in his last moments ;
and another above, comprises the emblematical re-
presentation of his ascent to immortality. A Latin
inscription (of which the following is a translation)
from the pen of a noble lord, appears on a marble
tablet, over each of the grand entrances, on the
exterior of the building : — " To the invincible com-
mander, Viscount Nelson, in commemoration of
deeds most brilliantly achieved at the mouths of the
Nile, before the walls of Copenhagen, and on the
shores of Spain ; of the empire everywhere main-
tained by him over the seas ; and of the death which,
in the fulness of his own glory, though untimely
for his country and for Europe, conquering, Ire died ;
this tower was erected by William Paxton." The
workmen, in digging the foundations for this erec-
tion, discovered the fragment of an ancient war
instrument, resembling the head of a spear or jave-
lin, about nine inches in length, made of a mixed
metal containing a large proportion of copper or
brass. From the state in which it was found, it had
evidently lain in the ground during some hundreds
of years. — Middleton Hall stands near an old family
residence bearing the same name, now a farm-house.
Proceeding towards Carmarthen, passing over by
the bridge below Llanarthrie, and joining the old
road from Landeilo, the most remarkable place that
offers itself to notice, is Merlin's Grove, a neat
family residence, belonging to Mrs. Williams. It
stands in a sequestered spot, to the right of a small
village, three miles from Carmarthen. Beyond
the house, rising abruptly from the turnpike road,
is a thick grove, to which the name properly per-
tains. By the tradition of the neighbourhood, this
was the prophet's usual residence. At the upper
extremity of the wood, in the corner of a field be-
longing to Merlin's Grove farm, a spot is shewn
for the supposed place of his interment, and a natural
aperture in a rock, towards the middle of the wood,
in stated to have been the scene of his incantations.
This cavern would now afford but a confined and
uncomfortable residence.
LLANDOVERY.] — This market-towrt is situated
on the banks of the river Bran, 18 miles from
Brecknock, and 118 from London. Its Welsh
name is Llan ym Ddyfri, or Llan ym Ddyfroedd,
the church among the waters ; supposed to be
derived from the situation of the parish church,
Llandiagad, which is built on a flat promontory,
between the united streams of the Bran and Gwyd-
derig, and the river Towey, and a little way above
their confluence. The town, having nothing to
recommend it in point of appearance, consists of a
few straggling streets, generally very dirty, with
houses for the most part small and mean. — Llan-
dovery, formerly a contributory borough to Car-
marthen, still has its bailiff, whose appointment is
annual, its aldermen, recorder, town clerk, sergeant
at mace, &c. but these posts have at present little,
if any, authority attached to them. The castle,
situated on a rocky eminence, of moderate elevation,
on the western bank of the river Bran? seems never
to-
WALES,
701
to have been a building of great extent The re-
mains consist of a part of the keep, the site of the
outer ward, and the trenches which surrounded the
•works. It was probably erected soon after the
Norman conquest. * — The neighbourhood of Llan-
dovery is enlivened by several seats ; amongst which
is Glanbran, the ancient mansion of the Gwynnes.
— On the west, half a mile from Llandovery, the
river Towey is crossed by a handsome stone bridge
of one arch, built by William Edwards, a self-taught
architect of Pont y Prydd in Glamorganshire. A
mile above the bridge, on the banks of the Towey,
is Henllys, the seat of Colonel Williams. The
grounds occupy the shores of the river oft each side,
which are connected by a foot bridge raised upon
two projecting rocks, and of a construction that
harmonizes with the wild and romantic character
of the scene. Lower down the vale is another seat
called Llwyn Howell. — Abermarlais, a few miles
distant, is an elegant modern mansion, near the
banks of the Towey, built by Admiral Foley. The
present edifice was constructed from the ruins of
another, which once formed the princely mansion of
Sir Rhys ab Thomas, the lineal ancestor of the pre-
sent noble family of Dinevor. The estate was
purchased of the late Hay warden, by Admiral
Foley.
LLANELLY.] — This little town, seated on the Bury
creek, the actuary of the Lloughor river, is of small
extent, and irregularly built, but populous. Its
church has two steeples, one of which is terminated
by an embattled parapet, the other by a spire. Near
the church stands an old deserted seat of the Stepney
family. The town is one of the most thriving in
South Wales. The vicinity abounds in coal, and in
iron ore; and the land proprietors have greatly im-
proved the access from the sea. Here are extensive
iron works, belonging to Messrs. Raby and Com-
pany ; and Lord Ca-vdor has erected some lead works
in the neighbourhood, for smelting the ore raised
from his mines in the upper part of the vale of
Towey : there are also some copper works near the
water side. Rail roads have been constructed in
various directions. — On a small promontory, called
Machynis, on the Bury river, below Llanelly, is an-
other old seat of the Stepneys. This spot, formerly
* This town gave birth to the Rev. Kees Prichard, vicar of
Llanclingad, better known by the name of " the Vicar of
Llandovery." He was admitted a student of Jesus College,
Oxford, in 1597, when he was about 18. In 1602, he was
ordained priest at Witham, in Essex; and, in 1613 he was
institued rector of Llanedy, in the same county, in the gift of
the crown. In 1614, he was made a prebendary of the Colle-
giate church at Brecknock ; and, in 1626, he was appointed
chancellor of St. David's. He died in 1644, and was buried
in the church of St. Dingad ; but there is no monument to
indicate the spot, or to commemorate his virtues. He left a
legacy of twenty pounds per annum in lands, for the mainte-
nance of a free school in his native town ; but his benevolent
purpose was frustrated, and the property reverted to his de-
scendants. ^-Mr. Prichard translated several small religious
tracts into the Welsh language, and wrote some observations on
vol. iv. — no. 192.
insulated, is supposed to have been the place where
St. Piro built a monastery, about the year 513. At
a short distance from Llanelly, on the left of the road
leading to Pont ar ddtilais, stands Llangramiach
House, the property of the Earl of Warwick. De-
scending the river, within a mile and a half of the
town, on the right bank, are Rhyd y Gore House, the
residence of David Edwards, Esq., and Ystrayd,
the seat of John Jones, Esq. ; and, lower down the
vale, on the other side of the river, lies Iscoed, the
mansion of Sir William Mansell, Bart. Nearly op-
posite to this house, on a rocky and commanding
eminence, overlooking the entrance of the Towey,
stand the ruins of the castle of Llanstuffan, which
spread over a considerable extent of ground. This
fortress was, at one time, a place of great strength,
and successfully maintained several formidable
sieges. — The village of Llanstuffan, at the foot of
the hill, near the river, is neat and cheerful, and is a
place of some resort for sea-bathing. Ferry-side,
on the opposite shore, is visited for the same pur-
pose.
LLANGADOC.] — Six miles from Llandovery, lower
down the vale, is the little town of Llang.idoc, which
is romantically seated near the river Sawthy, just
above its junction with the Towey. The appearance
of this place is very respectable, several of the trades-
men's houses, and others, being good erections.
The church, an old substantial edifice, derives some
celebrity from a scheme of Dr. Thomas Beck to
erect it into a collegiate church. The death of the
prelate put an end to the design. Of the castle, no
vestige remains, unless the 'mound of earth on tha
banks of the Sawddvvy be considered as indicating
its site. — To the south eastward, is a hill, forming
the extremity of the Black Mountain range in this
direction, called Tri Chrtig, or the Three Hillocks,
from three large heaps of stones, or carneddau,
which are raised on its summit. Near them are
some remains of an old encampment. On the east-
ern bank of the Towey, between Llangndoc and
Llandeilo fawr, are Dan yr Allt, the residence of
Thomas Stepney, Esq. ; Manarabon, the seat of
Colonel M'Clary ; Greenhill, in the occupation of
Colonel Pugh, &c.
LLANGYNYK.] — About half a mile from Carmar-
the 39 articles ; but the work which has spread his fame among
his countrymen, is intituled " Canwyll y Cymry," — " The
Welshman's Candle, or the Works ot Hie K«v. Mr. Rees
Prichard, sometime Vicar of Llandovery." The title, how-
ever, by which it is more generally known, is " Llyfj y ['"icer,"
or the Vicar's Book. This publication, in one moderate sized
octavo volume, comprises 170 original poems, on various re-
ligious topics. They are written with great ease and fluency,
and with a plainness and simplicity of language which render
them perfectly intelligible to the most uncultivated understand-
ings. To these circumstances, in their composition, must chiefly
be attributed that fascination which has imprinted them on the
memory of so many of the peasantry of the country, and ren-
dered " the Vicar's Book" the companion of the Bible in
almost every Welsh cottage.
8 p then,
702
WALES.
then, stands the cliurcli of Llangynyr, remarkable
on account of its situation, on the summit of a hill
which commands one of the finest prospects in South
\V;iies. The principal view is of the vale of Towey
looking1 up the river. The whole of the valley lies
.open to the eye of the spectator, with all its inter-
esting objects, while the prospect is bounded by a
bold amphitheatre of hills, whose towering summits
gradually disappear in the clouds.
NEWCASTLE EMLYN.] — The little market-town of
Newcastle-Einlyn, or Dinas Emlin, the city of
Emlin, probably from Emilianus, some Roman
settler, is delightfully situated on the banks of the
Teivi, 17 miles from Carmarthen and 216 from
.London. Some of the houses, on the northern
bank of the river, which is here crossed by a good
stone bridge, are in Cardiganshire. The town was
called New Castle, from its fortress having been
rebuilt by Sir Rhys ab Thomas, who made it one
of his residences. On the attainder of Rhys ab
Gruff'ydd, Sir Rhys's grandson, this property was
given by the crown to the Vaughans of Golden
Grove, of which house Richard Vaughan was
created, by Charles I. Earl of Carberry in Ireland
and Baron Emlyn. The fine old castle has entirely
gone to decay ; but its ruins are eminently pictu-
,resque and beautiful. — A few miles below the town,
near Cenarth, is a beautiful salmon leap.
PENBOYR.] —In this parish, situated in the vale
of Teivi, are sereral tumuli \ and near the church
are some vestiges of a small Roman encampment.
Some Roman coins, and some traces of a Roman
causeway, have also been discovered here.
GLAMORGANSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.] — The maritime county
of Glamorgan U bounded on the north by Breck-
nockshire, and part of Carmarthenshire ; on the
•west by Carmarthenshire ; on the east by Monmouth-
shire ; and on the south by the Bristol Channel.
Its Ibrm is extremely irregular : the greater part of
the sea coast forms a semicircular sweep, the west-
ern extremity forming a narrow beak between the
open channel on one hand, and an arm running
round to the Carmarthenshire coast on the other.
Its greatest length is about 48 miles, from east to
west ; and varies in width from about 28 miles to 7.
According to Gary's estimate, it contains 422,400
aeres ; but, according to the government returns,
520,080. — The air, in the south, towards the sea,
is temperate and salubrious ; but the northern part,
which is mountainous, full of thick wootls, and ex-
tremely barren, is cold and piercing. The moun-
tains, however, depasture herds of cattle, and send
forth streams which add greatly to the fertility of
the other parts of the county. Between the moun-
tains, there are some fertile vallies, which afford
good pasture ; and the level part, being more sus-
ceptible of cultivation, produces remarkably sweet
grass, and fair crops of corn. The south part is
indeed so fertile, pleasant, and populous, that it is
frequently denominated the garden of Wales. — The
principal rivers of Glamorganshire are the Rhymny,
the Taff, the Ogmore, the Avon, the Neath, and
the Tavey. The Rhymny, or Remney, rises on the
borders of Brecknockshire, and running south-
south-east, separates this county from Monmouth,
and then falls into the mouth of the Severn, to the east
of Cardiff. The Taff has its source in Brecknock-
shire, south of Brecknock, and running south-east by
Llandaffand Cardiff, fallsintothe mouthof the Severn
a mile-ar two south-west of the mouth of the Rhym-
ny. The Ogmore rises on. the borders of Breck-
nockshire, and taking its course to the south, falls
into the Bristol Channel. The Avon rises a little
to the south-west of the source of the Ogmore, and
after winding to the west turns south-east, and falls
into the sea at Abera von. The Neath, or Cledaugh,
rises in Brecknockshire, and running south-west,
falls into the east part of Swansea Bay. The
Tavey, rises at the foot of the Black Mountain in
Brecknockshire, ajid running south-west passes by
Swansea, and discharges itself into Swansea Bay.
The more inconsiderable rivers of this county are
the Elay, the Ewenny, the Ilepste, the Melte, the
Trawgath, the Dulishe, and the Turch. — Keurig
Pool, between Margam Park and the sea, is the
only piece of water in this county that can fairly be
termed a lake. Though of small extent, an idle
tradition is entertained, that it is the site of a city
which was swallowed by an earthquake. — This may
be termed a hilly county ; the neighbourhood of
Cardiff presenting the only extensive level tract.
On the north, the land swells into mountains of
considerable elevation ; some of which are detatched
eminences ; but, mostly, they extend in chains of
various lengths, which take a southerly course, and
are separated by the deep and broken valleys that
form the beds of the principal rivers. — This county
is rich in mineral stores, particularly coal : it has
also an abundance of iron, and some copper. Lime-
stone is burnt, and exported to a great extent ; in
some parts it is sufficiently hard to bear a bright
polish, and is manufactured into handsome chimney
pieces. Gypsum is likewise found, both in veins
and in detached masses. The calcareous rocks along
the coast contain numbers of majestic caverns,
which are ornamented with stalactites, and crystal-
lized spars of great beauty. — It is remarkable, that
this county has no springs of great medicinal cele-
brity. The water of Taf-well, near the Taf, a few
miles above Cardiff, is tepid, and has been applied
to the cure of rheumatic affections with considerable
success. — The soil of a large portion of the hills is
a black peat, varied in the dryer situations by a
brown gravelly earth. In the vallies it improves
into a brown fertile loam adapted to all the purposes
of agriculture. In the south, comprehending the
tract which reaches from the lower extremity of
the mountainous region to the sea, and denominated
" the vale of -Glamorgan," tbe soil is a fine loain,
improved
WALES.
703
improved by a substratum of limestone. As it ap-
proaches the shore it changes into a rich clay. —
The usual crops grown in this county are wheat,
barley, and oats. Most of the small farmers in the
interior, and more mountainous parts, pursue the
destructive practice of successive white crops,
•which are continued as long as the ground will
yield any return above the seed ; but in the lower
lands a more enlightened system has long prevailed.
The most general green crops are beans, turnips,
vetches, and pease. Mangell Worzell is beginning
to be cultivated, with great advantage. Fallows
are common, but less so than formerly — A large
portion of the mountainous country is uninclosed,
aud used for pasture. The tenants of the neigh-
bouring farms possess the right of common to most
of these, without any limitation. These wastes are
computed to comprise about 1-2,000 acres ; most of
which might be converted into profitable farms. —
The farms are in very few instances appropriated
exclusively to the dairy. Nearly an equal propor-
tion is devoted to arable purposes ; but grazing is
prosecuted on too large a scale for the real advan-
tage of the district. — The agricultural implements
in common use would admit of great improvement ;
particularly the plough, which is generally heavy
and cumbrous. On the larger farms horses are
frequently employed in tillage, but the most com-
mon teams are oxen, yoked in pairs, and sometimes
led by a pair of horses. The chief manure is lime,
•which is procured, in most parts, at a cheap and
easy rate. Paring and burning are extensively
practised. Irrigation is not much in use. The
cattle are of an excellent kind. They are of a
middling size, handsome in their make, and of a
fine brown colour, occasionally presenting black and
other varieties. Their milk is rich, and yielded in
large quantities ; and they readily fatten. In the
Lilly parts, however, the breed is smaller, and more
hardy. The horses are of various kinds ; in general
handsome, strong, and active, and well calculated
for draught or for the saddle. Great attention has
been paid for several years to the improvement of
the native breed for both purposes. The sheep
may vie both as to form and quality with the best
English breeds, and afford wool of excellent tex-
ture. The farm buildings are good and commo-
dious ; consisting of substantial stone erections,
sometimes covered with thatch, and sometimes with
stone tiles. The cottages are similarly constructed.
The general practice of whitewashing these build-
ings, with all the walls which lie adjacent to the
houses, gives to the whole an air of neatness,
and produces a pleasing effect. Several parts
of Glamorganshire are well wooded ; but the
progress of its manufactures has of late years cre-
ated a large consumption, and caused a consider-
able havoc in particular districts. Some of the
mountain farms are large, but the land being of a
very inferior quality the reals are low ; varying
from 51. to 500/. a year : the number of estaCes that
let for more than 200/. is very small : the roost
common rents are under 50/. Many of the farms
are held on rack rent, but are let on leases of seven,
fourteen, and twenty-one years, and, on the greater
properties, on leases of lives. Several years ago
an agricultural society was instituted in this county,
which is productive of great advantage. The chief
manufacture of this county is that of iron. The
most extensive works are. at Merthyr Tydvil, where
there are four establishments on a large scale ; hav-
ing, together, about 16 or 18 blast furnaces. One
furnace will generally yield about 50 tons of iron
in a week. Some of these furnaces are blown by
steam engines. — The Cjfartha works, alone produce
annually about 11,000 tons of pig iron, and 12,000
tons of bar iron ; and the number of men employed
by this establishment is usually from 1500 to 2000,
making, with their wives and children, at least 5000
persons. There are several other iron works in
the county. Tin plate manufactories arc also nu-
merous.— The next manufacture in point of import-
ance is that of copper. The ore is conveyed to this
county from Cornwall, North Wales, and Ireland,
for the convenience of coal; and there are smelting
works on an extensive scale in the neighbourhoods
of Aberavon, Neath, and Swansea. At the hist
mentioned place there is an extensive manufactory
of earthen ware ; and a manufactory of a similar
kind has been established at Eglwysilian, amongst
the mountains to the northward of Cardiff. A
woollen manufactury was established some years
since at Bridgend, ehiefly for Welsh shawls. —
Coarse cloth is manufactured in small quantities at
some private establishments ; and a considerable
quantity of flannel, which forms the chief clothing
of the peasantry, is made throughout the whole of
the country. Within these few years uome soap
works have been erected in the neighbourhood of
Swansea. — The chief article of produce, for ex-
portation, is coal ; of which large quantities have
for, many years been shipped annually from the
ports of Neath and Swansea. The commercial
consequence of Glamorganshire has, however, been
derived from its canals, which have led to the es-
tablishment of new manufactories in the heart of the
country, and furnished means for transporting to
its harbours the produce of the interior. The first
canal formed here was that from Cardiff to Merthyr
Tydvil, which was commenced in 1791, and finished
in 1798. Its entire length is about twenty-six
miles : it has forty locks in that distance, and the
elevation at the head is about 570 feet above the
level of high water at Cardiff. From Cardiff it has
been continued on a larger scale to the entrance of
the Taff near Penarth. This part admits of ships of
200 tons to the town quays, built on its banks. A
branch from this canal communicates witb the works
in the neighbourhood of Aberdarc. Tc avoid in-
terruption in transporting the produce cf the Mer-
thyr works in dry seasons, when the canal is scantily
supplied with water, a rail road lias been constructed
at
704
WALES.
at the upper end for the length of about eight miles,
along which the iron, &c. are conveyed in waggons.
A canal, hegun at Neath in 1791, was carried up
the vale nearly to the confines of the county. It
was afterwards extended south to Briton Ferry,
where a convenient shipping place has been built for
loading the vessels with the coal, and other articles
of exportation furnished by the neighbourhood. —
The length of this canal is thirteen miles, and it has
sixteen locks. From the upper extremity a rail
road has been formed to communicate with the iron
•works of Ilirwain and Aberdare. — Soon after the
Neath canal was constructed, another was made
along the vale of the Tawe from Swansea, up to the
Brecknockshire hills above Ystrad-gunlais. The
length of this is sixteen miles, the depth about five
feet. Numerous rail roads communicate with this
canal in various places. Near Swansea are two
other small canals, which are private property. —
This county is intersected by a great number of
good roads, which afford easy and convenient com-
munications between the different towns and vil-
lages. The high road to Milford runs through its
whole extent in an east and west direction, from
Rumney bridge to Pontarddulais, on the river
Loughor. A mail coach to and from the metropolis
passes this way daily ; and two other coaches, one
from Gloucester, the other from Bristol, proceed as
far as Swansea on alternate days. Stage waggons
are unknown in the county, its numerous ports su-
perseding their use, and affording every necessary
facility for supplying the chief towns with merchan-
dize of every description from England. — What is
now termed Glamorganshire formed anciently a part
of the province of Siluria, supposed to have com-
prehended also the whole of Monmouthshire, with
portions of the counties of Hereford and Gloucester.
The British name which the Roman writers thus
latinized, was Syllwg, or Essyllwg, supposed to
signify " beautiful aspect, comely, sightly ;" or, in
other words, a fair and agreeable region ; a de-
nomination to which the country is, unquestionably,
fully entitled. The same territory was also occa-
sionally called Gvvent ; a term which has been con-
sidered to be nearly synonimous with Essyllwg. —
The modern designation, Morgan wg, Gwlad-Mor-
gan, or Glamorgan, is traced to a descendant of the
great Caractacus, of the name of Morgan, who,
sometime after the departure of the Romans, held
this district under his dominion. From this time
the three names were used indiscriminately, until
the arrival of the Normans under •Fitzhamon, and
their occupation of the possessions of Jestyn ab
Gwrgan, when Morganwg became restricted to the
tract which was bounded by the river Usk on the
east, and by the Nedd on the west. The present
limits were fixed by the Act of Union 27th Henry
VIII. when the principality was divided into shires,
preparatory to the introduction of the English laws
and government. It is deserving of remark, that
the etymology of Morgan has been variously given
by different writers. Richards derives it from two
Irish words, Mor, quasi mawr, great, and Ceann or
Keann, Wallice, pen, head, and he renders Ceann-
mor, penfras, or thick head. Others have supposed
it to be composed of Mor, the sea, and Geni, to be
born, which would be " Sea-born," a term which
might be applied to a man, or to a country on the
sea coast. Owen derives it from Mor, sea, and
Cant, an edge or brink, which is certainly charac-
teristic of the situation of this county. — The county
is now included in the south-east circuit, in the
province of Canterbury, and in the diocese of
Llandaff. It is divided into the ten hundreds of
Caerphilly, Cowbridge, Dinas Powys, Kibbor, Llan-
govelach, Miskin, Neath, Newcastle, Ogmore, and
Swansea. These hundreds are subdivided into 124
parishes, and two parts of parishes ; having eight
petty sessions, and 82 acting county magistrates.
This county comprises one city, Llandaff; one
borough, Cardiff; arid four other market towns ;
viz. Cowbridge, Neath, Penrice, and Swansea.—
The population of Glamorganshire was, in the year
1700, 49,700; in 1750,55,200; in 1801, 74,000;
and in 1811, 85,067, or, allowing for absentees.
88,000.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
ABERAVON.] — This decayed market-town, now
only a village, is situated near the mouth of the
Avon, on the western bank of that river, 19 miles
from Cowbridge, and about four miles southward
from Neath. Formerly a borough, it is still governed
by a portrieve, who is annually elected by the
burgesses ; and it shares with Cardiff, amongst its
contributory boroughs, the honour of returning a
member to the House of Commons. A weekly
market supplies the inhabitants connected with the
iron works in the neighbourhood with fresh provi-
sions. This town formerly had a castle, scarcely
any vestiges of which remain. There is a ridiculous
belief, amongst the people of this place, that every
Christmas day, and on that day alone, a large sal-
mon presents himself in the river, and allows him-
self to be caught and handled by any one who
chooses ; but that it would be considered an act of
impiety to detain him. Proceeding from Aberavon,
towards Neath, the country improves in interest ;
and the woody ascent on the right, with the lower
grounds, is occasionally enlivened by some neat and
respectable edifices. Baglan Hall was once the
residence of the Rev. Mr. Thomas, the friend of
Mason, the poet, who passed much of his time there.
Briton Ferry, the elegant seat of Lord Jersey,
environed by fertile land and spacious plantations
of tho most beautiful description, is in this neigh-
bourhood. In Welsh, it is called Llan Sawyl. Its
English name is derived from th, a ferry, commu-
nicating with the road along the shore, towards
Swansea, which has been established1 here time
immemorial. The church- yard of Briton Ferry is
separated from the lawn, in front of the bouse, only
by
AY ALES.
705
by a wall. This picturesque and interesting object
has been celebrated by the muse of Mason.
BARRY ISLAND.] — A few miles to the westward of
Sully, lies Barry Island, the name of which has
been thought to have been derived from St. Barouh,
a hermit, who, according1 to Cressy, died here in
the year 700. This island, which lets for about 80/.
a year, is estimated to contain 300 acres. In Le-
land's time there was " in the midle of it; a fair little
chapel of S. Barrock, when much pilgrimage was
used," but there was no dwelling. Since that
period, however, a house has been erected for the
residence of a farmer, which, in the summer, is
converted into a boarding-house for the reception of
sea bathers. The family of Giraldus de Barri are said
to have taken their title from the island, of which
they were once lords. " It is remarkable," observes
Giraldus, " that in a rock near the entrance of the
island there is a small cavity, to which, if the ear
is applied, a noise is heard like that of smiths at
work, the blowing of bellows, strokes of hammers,
grinding of tools, and roaring of furnaces ; and it
might easily be imagined that such noises, which
are continued at the ebb and flow of the tides, were
occasioned by the influx of the*sea under the cavities
of the rocks." Sir Richard Hoare, in his additions
to Giraldus, observes as follows : — " Towards the
southern part of the island, on a spot called Nell's
point, is a tine well, to which great numbers of
women resort ou Holy Thursday, and having washed
their eyes at the spring, each drops a pin into it.
The landlord of the boarding-house told me, that
on cleaning out the well he took out a pint full of
these votive offerings." — On the main land, opposite
the western extremity of the island, lies the village
of Barry, near which are some remains of the castle.
A few miles north-westward from Barry, are the
ruins of Penmark Castle, anciently the property of
Sir Gilbert Ilutnphreville, one of the followers of
Fitzhamon. Llancarvan,in this vicinity, was once the
seat of a religious house, said to have been founded
by Cadoc the Wise, in the 6th century. Llancarvan
is also distinguished as the birth- place -of Caradoc,
the Welsh annalist, who compiled a history of the
principality from the abdication of Cadwaladyr,
086, to his own time. Tref Walter, or Walter-
ston, in this parish, was the residence of Walter
de Mapes, a writer of some note towards the middle
of tlie l'2th century. He was archdeacon of-Oxford,
and chaplain to Henry I. He built the church of
Llancarvan, a large substantial edifice, and the
village of Walterston, with a mansion for himself.
His literary labours comprise a translation of the
British chronicle into Latin, and a W- Ish version
of Geoffrey of Moumouth's fabulous paraphrase of
the same work. lie wrote also a treatise on agri-
culture in the Welsh language. At a short distance
from Llancarvan to the south, stands Foiunon Castle,
the mansion ol Robert Jones, Esq. whose ancestor
John Jones, was one of the persons who signed the
warrant for King Charles's execution, and on the
TOL. iv. — NO. 191.
restoration suffered in his turn on the scaffold. A
portrait of Oliver Cromwell, in this house, is reckon-
ed the finest extant. A little to the westward of
Fonmon, the river Daw pursues a southerly course
towards the sen, which it enters at the harbour of
Aberddaw, celebrated for its limestone. In ascend-
ing the river, ou the left, is Gileslon, so called from
the Giles family. Beyond is the village of St. Athan,
near which are the venerable ruins of the castle
built by Sir Roger Berkrolles, one of Fitzliamon's
knights, to whom this property, then called East
Orchard, was assigned. — Flemingston, or Flimston,
a pleasant village, higher up the vale, derives its
name from the descendants of Sir John Flemming,
a knight in Fitzhamon's train ; some remains of
whose castellated residence are still to be seen. In
this neigbourhood is Bewper Castle, one of the most
ancient seats in the county. The name is a corrup-
tion of Beaupre, " Fair meadow," which is an exact
translation of the original Welsh appellation Maes
Essyllt. The new house, now occupied by a farmer,
is a large Gothic building, but the porch is an elegant
Grecian structure, consisting of three stories, the
lower of the Doric, the second of the Ionic, and the
upper of the Corinthian order of architecture, the
columns, capitals, &c. being finished with great
taste. This was the work of a native architect, of
the name of Richard Twrch, who is considered to
have been one of the earliest introducers of Grecian
architecture into this country. The ornamental
stonework of the chapel, by the same hand, bears
the date of 1580. This castle was the favourite
residence of the Sitsyllt family, from which are de-
scended the noble houses of Cecil, Earls of Exeter
and Salisbury. It afterwards belonged to the Bas-
sets, one of whom (Sir Richard Basset) presided at
the Congress, or Gorsedd of the regular bards, held
at Bewper, in 1681.
BUIDGEND.] — The town of Bridgeud, about a
mile from the western end of Ewcnny Bridge, is
pleasantly seated on the two banks of the Ogmorc,
which are here connected by- a stone bridge. It
contains many good houses, respectably inhabited ;
and the society which it affords is of a superior
order. A manufactory of flannel anil Welsh shawls,
has been some time established here ; but it is not
in a flourishing state. — This place is divided into two
townships, called Oldcastle, and Newcastle ; the
former occupying the eastern, the latter the western
side of the river. The former derives its name from
an ancient fortress which stood near the chapel, at
its eastern extremity, and which appears to have
been dependent on the neighbouring castle of Coety.
The present tythe barn is built on part of the ruins.
Newcastle was so named from a fortress, probably
of later date, some remains of which yet exist, on
.a hill above the church. — Mr. George Cadogan
Morgan was boru here, in 1754, of respectable
parents, his i'uther being a surgeon and apothecary of
considerable eminence in the town, and his mother a
sister of the celebrated Dr. Richard Price. Dr. Price,
8 Q himself,
706
WALES,
himself, was born, in February, 1723, at Tynton,
a detached house, a few miles hence, in a northerly
direction. — About a mile to the north-eastward of
Bridgend, are the ruins of Coety Castle, second in
extent and magnificence only to those of Caerphili.
The present walls are supposed to be the remains of
the edifice built by Sir Payne Turberville, to whom
this lordship was assigned in Fitzhavnon's division of
the county. The estate is now the property of
Thomas Wyndham, Esq. In this parish was born
Dafydd Hopkin, a poet, who was admitted to the
Gorsedd of Glamorgan, in 1700, and presided in
1730.— In the church-yard at Coychurch, a mile to
the eastward of Bridgend, is an ancient stone monu-
ment, which appears to have formed part of a cross.
'Flie church is dedicated to St. Crallo, from who^n
the place is called Llangrallo. This saint is de-
scribed as the nephew of St. llltyd, and is said to the
have come to this country with St. Germanus. To
the north of Bridgend, on the Ogmore and its tri-
butary streams, are Court Colinan, the seat of
William Rees, Esq. ; New House, the residence of
Morgan Smith, Esq.; Coetrechen, the seat of Popkiu
Trehaern, Esq. ; and, higher up, among the moun-
tains, Pant-un-awel, the seat of Jenkins, Esq.
On a hill above New House is a spacious British
encampment. — The road from Bridgend towards
the west leads, at the distance of a mile, through
the village of Laleston ; a place which derives its
name from Lalys, a foreign architect, who is said to
have been brought into Glamorganshire from the
east by Richard de Granville, who had been on a
pilgrimage to Jerusalem. Lalys, who was employ-
ed by his patron to build the abbey of Neath, erected
several other religious houses, and some castles in
the principality. His residence was for some time
at this place, but he afterwards removed to London,
having been appointed architect to Henry I. On
the right of Laleston is the residence of T. Bennet,
Esq.— Shortly after joining the main turnpike be-
yond Laleston, a road turns to the left which con-
ducts to the village of Tythegstone, near which is
the seat of Henry Knight, Esq. On this estate is
a small ruinous Cromlech. Farther on, is the little
town of Newton Nottage, which has a port whence
ships of small burden carry on a coasting trade
with Bristol, &c. The shore is commodious for
bathing ; and there is a house for the reception of
company.
CAERFHILI.] — The little market-town of Caer-
pbili, three miles N. E. from Castell Coch, and 160
from London, contains no regular street, but is
formed of straggling houses disposed agreeably to
the caprice or the convenience of the proprietors.
Amongst numbers of indifferent cottages, are some
respectable erections, occupied by tradesmen and
manufacturers. The town has a very comfortable
inn. It anciently occupied a considerably larger
space than it does at present ; as the foundations of
building!-:, occasionally discovered in the adjacent
fields, fully testify, it has some works, for the
manufacture of blankets, Welsh shawls, &.c. The
chief attraction which it holds out to the traveller
is its castle, the magnificent ruins of which are
thought to surpass every thing of the kind in the
kingdom. Leland describes the place as " sette
emonge Marisches ;" which is not strictly correct.
The castle occupies a station moderately elevated,
near the middle of a level tract, hemmed in on the
north and south by lofty hills, but stretching on the
east and west into a valley of some extent, terminated
on one side by the Romney, on the other by theTaf.
The adjacent grounds are not marshy ; there being
everywhere a sufficient fall to allow of their being
effectually drained. — On entering the castle enclosure
by the barbacan, from the eastward, a long range of
buildings which formed the barracks of the garrison,
stretch on the right, under the boundary wall. Im-
mediately in front are two large towers, in a dilapi-
dated condition, which formed the grind gateway.
Within this entrance were u moat and drawbridge,
the former of which yet remains. On the opposite
side of the area is another gateway, having several
apertures for portcullises : this leads to the prin-
cipal court, which comprehends a space of about 201
feet in length, by about 120 in width. On the south
side of this court is the great hall of the castle, a
magnificent apartment 70 feet long, 30 broad, and
17 high. In the middle of the north side of this
apartment is a large fire place, displaying consider-
able architectural elegance ; and on each side of it
are two grand windows, with pointed arches, orna-
mented with double rows of trippled-leaved knobs,
with a small fruit in the centre. Altogether, this
room must have been exceedingly sumptuous and
elegant. On this side of tlse castle is a grand Gothic
archway, with the remains of the situation of a draw-
bridge, which formed an entrance from the west-
ward. Near the south-east angle of the central or
main buildings, is a round tower, called the Mint ;
and close by it stands the leaning tower, which
forms so conspicuous a feature of this oastle. This
consists of about one-half or semi-circumference of
a round tower, which was ruptured from top to
bottom, one portion being probably demolished,
while the other was forced into its present position.
The fragment remaining is nearly eighty feet in
height, and leans between ten and eleven feet out of
the perpendicular. As it projects beyond its centre
of gravity, it is supported by the strength of the
cemeat, and its firm hold in the ground. Dr. Malkin
states, that there was under this tower a furnace for
melting iron, which, in the time of the younger
D'Espencer, was thrown in its fluid state on the
besiegers, when the castle was invested by the queen's
troops, in the reign of Edward II. ; and that as soon
as the queen's forces gained possession of it, they let
out the burning mass, and throwing water upon it,
created such a power of steam as produced a dread-
ful explosion, and ruptured the tower. — From the
mint is a passage into a long gallery in the wall of
the inner enclosure, which afforded communications
with
WALES.
re?
with all (he chambers, and is yet in a very entire
state. The whole of the building1, with a large space
of open ground, was surrounded by a lofty wall of
immense thickness, strengthened by buttresses, and
protected by square towers, which communicated
with each other by means of an embattled gallery.
Beyond this wall were outworks of great extent,
consisting of earthen moats and bastions. The gar-
rison was furnished with water from a copious stream,
which runs through the middle of the enclosure. —
The early history of this castle is involved in con-
siderable uncertainty, neither the date of its founda-
tion, iior the person by whom it was first raised,
having been ascertained. On its surrender to the
queen's forces, there are said to have been taken
here 2000 fat oxen, 12,000 cows, 25,000 calves,
30,000 fat sheep, 000 draught horses, 2000 fat
hogs, besides 200 beeves, 600 sheep, and 1000 hogs,
salted ; 200 to'us of French wine, 40 tons of cyder,
and home made wines ; and a sufficient quantity of
wheat to furnish bread for 2000 men during four
years. The castle after this was allowed to go with
the lordship of Glamorgan ; and Owen Glyndwr, in
his invasion in 1400, took it, and garrisoned it for
some time.
Near the town of Caerphili, on the north-west, is
Energliu, or Geneu'r Glyn, the seat of John Good-
rich, Esq. ; and, to the eastward of Caerphili, near
the borders of the county, lies Cefn Mable, an
ancient seat of the Kernes family. — A little higher
stands Ruperrah, a seat belonging to the Morgans
of Tredegar. The house was built by Inigo Jones ;
but a fire having consumed the interior, the external
walls are all that can now be ascribed to that archi-
tect.— Pont-y-Prydd, or New Bridge, the appear-
ance of which, stretching over the bed of Taf, and
rising from its steep banks like a rainbow, is exceed-
ingly beautiful and picturesque from every point of
view, in which it can be seen, consists of a single
arch, 140 feet in the chord, and 33 feet in height
above the level of the river at low water, which
forms the section of a circle of 175 feet in <liameter.
The architect of this bridge, which formed at the
time, with very few exceptions, the largest arch
in the world, was William Edwards, a self-taught
genius, who never received the least assistance or
instruction in his craft from a master.
CARDIFF.] — The market-town of Cardiff, three
miles from Rumney Bridge, and 160 from London,
is situated in the midst of an extensive flat country
on the eastern shore of the Taf. Though not the
first town in extent or population, it is regarded as
the metropolis of the county. Its general appear-
ance is neat and pleasing ; the streets are laid out
with tolerable regularity ; and they contain many
good houses. The town-hall, a respectable modern
structure, stands in the middle of one of the prin-
cipal thoroughfares ; and near it is the county gaol,
built upon Mr. Howard's plan. Since the comple-
tion of the canal to Merthyr, the town has received
great improvements by the erection of several hand-
some houses. Neat and commodious buildings on
a smaller scale have also been errcled for the work-
men employed about the wharfs, &c. The river
is crossed b'y a handsome stone bridge of three
arches, with two smaller arches, one at each end,
for the passage of the flood waters. This was
built by Mr. Parry in 1706, and was the thir,d
raised by him on the same spot, the two former
having been swept away by tremendous floods before
they were completed. The old bridge was higher
up the river, opposite the castle. The population of
Cardiff, in 1811, was 2457. Here is a manufactory
of iron hoops. The trade of Cardiff is considerable,
in consequence of the numerous collieries up the
vale, and the iron and tin works of Merthyr, Meliu
Gruffydd, &c. The new cut to the town quays oa
the canal admits ships of 200 tons, to take in the
whole of their cargo : ships of 300 tons occasionally
take in part of their loading at these wharfe, and,
complete their cargoes by means of barges, after
they have entered the river at the sea lock. There
are regular passage boats for the conveyance of mer-
chandize, &c. twice every week between this place
and Bristol ; in addition to which, coaches daily
from the same place, and every other day from
Gloucester, afford important commercial facilities.
The inns are numerous, but the two principal are
the Cardiff Arms and the Angel. — This is a borough
town, and, with the contributory boroughs of Covv-
b; 'dge, Llantrissent, Kenfig, Aberavon, Neath,
Swansea, and Loughor, sends one member to Par-
liament. The corporation consists of two bailiffs,
who are the returning officers, a steward, constable
of the castle, twelve aldermen, from whom the
baiUffs are annually chosen, twelve capital bur-
gesses, &c. The town was once surrounded by a
wall, in which were five gates, one communicating
with the old shipping place, on the river, and the
others with the principal roads into the country.
None of the gates remain ; but considerable por-
tions of the wall, with a watch'tower, are preserved
on the eastern side, where the ditch has been cleared
out, and used for the bed of the canal. — Cardiff eon-
tains two parishes, St. Mary's and St. John's. The
church of the former, which stood near the river, at
the south-west extremity of the town, was carried
away by a great inundatio,n, in 1607. The church
of St. John, near the middle of the town, is a
plain Norman structure, supposed to have been
erected in the 13th century. The tower, of more
modern date than the body of the church, is a lofty
square building of great beauty, surmounted at the
corners by open pinnacles or lanthmis. The inte-
rior contains a monument of black and white marble,
to Sir William and Sir J. Herbert. In the suburbs,
on the north-east side of the town, are considerable
ruins of a monastery of Grey-frjars ; and on the
north-west, are some traces of a house of Black-
| friars. There were two other religious establish-
i ments at this place. — The castle, an interesting
i object, preserves much of ita ancient grandeur.
Th»
70S
WALES.
The western front, with its bold octagonal tower,
has a remarkably fine appearance from the road in
approaching the town on that side. The interior of
this part has, however, undergone great changes,
having been repaired and modernized some years
ago for the residence of Lord Mountstuart. — The
moms contain several good portraits of the Windsor
f tmily, the ancestors of Lady Bute, and some other
pictures by eminent artists. — On an elevated circular
mound, within the castla enclosure, stand the ruins
of the keep, commanding extensive and delightful
views. The ditch which formerly surrounded this
building has been filled up, and the whole of the
ground laid down into a fine level lawn. Adjoining
the gate by which the court is entered from the
town are the ruins of what is called the black tower,
which tradition assigns as the prison of the unfor-
tunate Robert Curtoise, Duke of Normandy, the
«on of William the Conqueror, who was confined
by order of his brother William II. He died here,
in 1133, after an imprisonment of thirty-six years. —
The first mention of Cardiff Castle occurs in the
Trninan manuscript, under Morgan Hen, who
began his reign in the early part of the 10th cen-
tury. The only historical event of any importance
connected with it, subsequently to the union of
Wales with England in the reign of Henry VIII.
is the siege it sustained in the time of Charles I.
It was garrisoned for the king, but was betrayed
into the hands of Cromwell by one of the royalists,
who is said to have led his troops into the castle,
through a subterraneous passage.
COWBRIDGE.] — Cowbridge, or, as it is called in
Welsh, Pont-faen, the stone bridge, corrupted from
Pont-y-fon, Cowbridge, 11 miles from Cardiff, and
172 from London, consists of one broad street of
considerable length, in the middle of which stands
the town-hall and market-house. The figures of a
cow and a bridge arc the arms of the town. Tra-
dition states, that, when the bridge belonging to
this place was first built, a cow, worried by dogs,
took shelter under one of the arches, where she was
so entangled by her horns, that she could not be
extricated alive. From this trivial circumstance,
the town is said to have received its name. It is said
to have been walled round in the year 1091, by
Robert St. Quintin, one of Fitzhamon's knights.
In Lelaml's time, it had three gates ; one at each
end of the main thoroughfare, and one on the south,
which yet remains. It is governed by two bailiffs, I
twelve aldermen, and twelve capital burgesses ; and
it is one of the contributory boroughs to Cardiff.
Here is an excellent grammar-school, which is in-
debted for a large proportion of its endowment to
Sir Llewelln Jenkins. Two fellowships, two scholar-
ships, and an exhibition at Jesus College, Oxford,
are appropriated exclusively to young men educated
on this foundation. — Three miles north from Cow-
bridge is Ystrad Owen, which derives its name
from Owen ab Cyllyn, Prince of Glamorgan, who
resided here. A large tumulus, in a field adjoin-
i ing the church-yard, is yet shewn as the site of
j his palace. An annual assembly of bards used
j to be held here, under the auspices of the pro-
i prietors of Hensol. Just beyond Ystrad Owen,
J stands Ashall, the elegant mansion of Colonel
Aubrey. On the other side of Ystrad Owen are
some remains of the castle of Talaran, or Tal-y-
faen ; a fortress which formed part of the spoils that
were wrested from the natives of this county by the
Norman invaders. A little to the eastward stands
the ancient mansion of Hensol, the seat of Samuel
Richardson, Esq. originally the property of the
Jenkins family. — On the right, at the distance of
a few miles, near the banks of the river Ely, are
the villages of Peterston super Ely and St. George's j
at which some remains of castles are to be found.
To the westward of Cardiff is the village of Llan-
dough, pleasantly situated on a gentle eminence,
near the Ely. The church-yard contains an ancient
inscribed stone, which seems to have formed a part
of a cross ; and it is thought a monastery formerly
existed here. To the southward, stands Cogan, an
old Gothic mansion, formerly the residence of the
Herberts, now tenanted by a farmer, who has con-
verted the great hall into a barn.— At Michaelston-
le-Pit, two miles to the westward, is an elegant
villa belonging to Mr. Rons ; and about two miles
to the southward from this place are tire ruins of
Dinas Powys, or Denis Powis, castle. To the west-
ward from Michaelston-le-Pit, near the village of
Wenvoe, are the ruins of Wrinchstone Castle.—
Wenvoe Castle, is an elegant and spacious castel-
lated mansion, the seat of Robert Jenner, Esq. —
At Sully formerly stood the castle of Sir Robert de
Sully, one of Fitzhamon's knights, to whom this
part of the country was allotted, and from whom the
place received its designation.
FAGAN'S.] — At St. Fagan's, on a site gently ele-
vated above the Ely, are some remains of a castel-
lated mansion, part of which is now tenanted by a
farmer. A sanguinary engagement was fought in
the vicinity during the protectorate of Oliver Crom-
well, in which the Welsh army was nearly annihilated.
The battle is said to have given sixty-five widows to
the parish of St. Fagan's alone, and upwards of
700 to the county of Glamorgan. During the next
harvest, so great was the scarcity of labourers, that
the corn was reaped and the hay mown by the
women. This victory was deemed of so much im-
portance by the Parliament, that a day of public
thanksgiving was appointed in consequence of it.
— A road leading from the village across the Ely,
joins the great western turnpike, about four miles
from Cardiff. A short distance farther on, a steep
winding ascent leads to the elevated common of
St. Lythan, presenting one of the most extensive,
rich, and varied prospects in South Wales, Imme-
diately after passing the common, appears Coed-
rhwglan, the seat of Llewelyn Treharne, Esq. a
large brick edifice. At the little village of St.
Nicholas, a road on the left conducts to Dyffrin
House.
WALES.
709
House, an ancient mansion formerly belonging to
the Price family. In a field on the right of the road
leading towards the house, is a remarkable crom-
lech, the largest of its class probably in the king-
dom. Below Dyffryn House, on the south-east,
is another monument of this description, of smaller
dimensions, called Llech-y-filast, " the stone of the
greyhound bitch ;" a term supposed to have been
derived from the circumstance of the early Christ-
ians evincing their contempt for these vestiges of
Pagan worship, by converting them into kenne's for
their dogs, &c. Returning to St. Nicholas, and
resuming the route to the westward, at a short dis-
tance on the right is Cotterel, the neat mansion of
Mr. Lascelles, in a handsome park, commanding
various beautiful prospects. Farther on, about a
mile beyond the little village of Bonvilston, on the
left, stands Llantryddyd, the ancient seat of Sir
John Aubrey, Bart. The house appears to have
been built partly in the time of Queen Elizabeth,
while the principal portion is supposed to be as old
as the reign of Henry VI. The park is of consi-
derable extent, and richly wooded. The Aubreys
were zealous partiznns of the royal cause during
the contest between Charles I. and the Parliament;
and their house was opened as an asylum for those
\vho suffered on account of their hostility to the re-
publican party.
KENFIU] — The town of Kenfig, or Cenfig, from
Cefn- y-figen, the " rid!>e, or elevated ground,
above the bug," seven miles from Britlgend, is of
small extent ; and the remains of the castle are very
inconsiderable. This is one of the contributory
boroughs joined with Cardiff. The corporation con-
sists of the constable of the casile, the portrieve,
aldermen, and recorder. A new town hull was
erected here a few years ago. Kenfig was anciently
a place of considerable importance, being one of the
principal residences of the lords of the district.
Robert Fitzhamon retained it to his own share.
The ruin of the place, and the present desolate
condition of the adjacent lands, which for a great
extent are covered with sand, ai'e ascribed to a
tremendous inundation of the sea during a violent
storm on this coast in the middle of the 16th cen-
tury.— Kenfig pool, a lake, near the town, has been
noticed. To the right, on the main road, lies the
little village of Pyle. An excellent inn, built some
years ago, on the approach has the appearance of
a gentleman's residence. — Two miles beyond Pyle,
on the right, once stood the magnificent abbey of
Margam, a celebrated house, the history of which
is involved in obscurity. At the Dissolution its
revenues, valued at 188/. Us. were sold to Sir Rice
Mansel, knight, whose descendant was raised to the
peerage by Que«M> Anne. Thomas Lord Mansel
died in 1743, and was succeeded by his uncle Chris-
topher ; who dying unmarried in 1741, was suc-
ceeds! by his younger brother Bussy. Bussy died
in 1750 without male issue ; the title in consequence
became extinct, and the estate devolved on his two
VOL. IV.— NO. 192.
daughters, one of whom married Mr. Talbot of
Lacock in Wiltshire, and conveyed to him this part
of the property, which still continues in his descen-
dants.—The remains of this ancient house convey
but an inadequate idea of its former extent and
grandeur. Excepting some fragments of walls, and
the traces of parts of the foundation, the shell of
the Chapler-house alone is left standing. The
parish church, as it now stands, is a part of the old
abbey church, comprising the western end, sepa-
rated at the transepts. It is a tine specimen of pure
Norman architecture. The circular arches of the
nave, which rest on pilasters, are lofty ; the win-
dows are small, the tops formed of circular arches,
and the western front is considerably ornamental.
This building was rapidly falling into decay ; but
Mr. Talbot caused it to be completely repaired. In
the church are several mural monuments comme-
morative of different members of the Mansel family ;
and, on a brass tablet, is a long Latin epitaph, said
to have been composed by Bishop Atterbury, on the
death of a favourite huntsman of one of the Man-
sels, who was interred here towards the commence-
ment of the last century. The old mansion, the
sent of the Mansels, was raised on a part of the
foundations of the ancient religious edifice. The
family preferring another residence at Penrice in
Gower, it was suffered to full into decay, and in
1780 was demolished ; but the park, which is very
extensive, well wooded, and abundantly supplied
with deer, is still preserved in its original state ;
and considerable attention is paid to the pleasure
gardens and grounds. In the midst of these stands
an elegant Doric edifice, built by the late Mr. Tal-
bot in 1787 for a green house, or conservatory,
for the reception of a large collection of orange
trees, the finest probably of the kind in Britain. At
each end a square room has been parted off, in
which are deposited some curious cork models of
remarkable buildings m Italy, and several fine
statues and other antiques of exquisite workman-
ship.— In the summer the orange trees are removed
to the lawn, and exhibit a rich and luxuriant grove,
several of the trees being 18 or 20 feet in height,
and remarkably handsome. They are said to have
been originally designed as a present from the
King of Spain or Portugal to Queen Elizabeth, but
that the vessel stranding on the Margam estates,
they became the property of the lord. — In the neigh-
bourhood of the abbey are several interesting antique
fragments ; and in the village is a curious stone
cross, about eight feet high, richly carved and
ornamented with fret-work. By the road side, and
forming the foot-bridge over the brook which issues
out of the park near the old entrance, are two other
relics of the same kind. — At a short distance to the
southward is a respectable farm-house, called Eglwys
Nynydti, or the Nuns' Church ; which was probably
a nunnery depcmlant on the Margam establishment.
Beyond Marram is the village of Tae-Bach, where
there are some copper works on a large scale, in
8 a which.
710
WALES.
which the ore is smelted, and the metal afterwards
rolled into plates. The houses are principally occu-
pied by persons employed about the works.
LLANDAFP.] — This ancient city, two miles from
Cardiff, and 162 from London, derives its name
from the situation of the church on the banks of the
river Taf. It is, in fact, a miserable village of
mean cottages, with the exception of a few thinly-
scattered gentlemen's houses $ and its only traders
are a few small shopkeepers. The great object of
attraction is the Cathedral. The architecture of
the ancient building is partly Saxon ; with an occa-
sional mixture of Norman ; but the prevailing style
is that which is usually denominated Gothic. The
western front is remarkably handsome, and orna-
mented with fine lancet windows of various sizes.
Immediately over the principal entrance in this end,
ami underneath the arch, on a tablet projecting in
the centre, is the figure of a bishop with one hand
moderately raised, and the other holding the pastoral
Staff; supposed to have been intended to represent
one of the earlier bishops of the see. Above, over
the upper range of windows, and near the summit
of the building, is another carved figure in a sitting
posture, holding a book in one hand. The whole
is surmounted by an ancient cross. On the north
side is a rich Saxon door way ; and on the south is
.another less ornamented. At the western end were
formerly two magnificent square towers, of which
that at the north-west angle, built by Jaspar Duke
of Bedford in 1485, alone remains. It is in good
preservation, except the pinnacles, which were
damaged by a storm in 1703. Two sides of this
tower rest on the walls of the church, but the other
sides are raised on two light arches, which spring
from a single pillar. — On entering the building,
some elegant Gothic arches occur on the right and
left, which separated the nave from two side aisles.
The length of the body of the church is 300 feet,
and the breadth 80. At the east cud ia a chapel
dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; and on the south
side stands the chapter -house, a square apartment,
having in the centre a pillar from which several
Gothic arches diverge in different directions, sup-
porting the roof. The ancient structure having
fallen into decay, a new edifice was raised about
the year 1751, within the old walls. " This,"
observes a modern writer, " may, perhaps, claim
the merit of being commodious for the purposes of
public worship : but nothing can be more incongru-
ous than its architecture, placed where it is. The
style is Grecian ; and it is impossible, on the first
view, to avoid the impression of its being a heathen
temple built, as if in scorn, in the midst of the
•venerable remains of a Christian church. This
incongruity is carried into the interior of the build-
ing, where the altar is placed beneath a Grecian
portico." — Llandaff has been the burial place of
several persons of distinction, and some of the
sepulchral monuments remain, though in a dilapi-
dated state. Near the upper end of the north aisle
is the sculptured figure of a female shrouded in a
loose robe, the face and the part of the body which
is displayed, exhibiting a striking representation of
a delicate frame, emaciated by sickness. Beyond
are two alabaster monuments to some of the Mat-
thews family. At the eastern extremity of the
south aisle is an alabaster monument, with the
sculptured figure of a lady, in a long robe reaching1
to her feet. Behind are the figures of two monks
holding an escutcheon, on which probably were
once emblazoned the arms of the person whom it
commemorates ; supposed to have been the lady of
John Lord Audley, in the reign of Henry IV. —
Near the cathedral are some remains of the ancient
castellated mansion of the bishop, consisting of a
large gateway, and part of the external wall. The
destruction of this building, and of the principal
portion of the church, is attributed toOwenGlyndwr.
The present chapter of Llandaf consists of the bishop,
who has the decanal stall, an archdeacon, treasurer,
chancellor, precentor, and nine prebendaries. The
see comprehends the principaj part of Glamorgan-
shire, and the whole of Monmouthshire, except
seven parishes. Its revenues, valued in the king's
books at lot/. 14$. \<t. are computed to be worth
annually ! (il)O/. The foundation of this see has been
assigned to the year 180, but upon insufficient eti-
dence. — On the eastern side of the Taf, nearly oppo-
site to Llandaff, stands Gabalva, the seat of Sir
Robert Lynch Blosse, Bait. — The Taf is crossed
above Llandnff by a stone bridge ; a short distance
beyond which lie the tin works of Merlin Gruffydd.
At the distance of a few miles northward, in the
midst of a thick forest, stand the ruins of Castell
Coch, or the Red Castle, so denominated from the
colour of the stone with which it is built. It pro-
bably was impregnable, before the invention of fire
arms. The prospect fropa it is singularly fine.
LLAN DOUGH.] — On the western bank of the Daw,
beyond Bewper, is the little village of Llundougb,
where was anciently a castle, of which some ruins
still remain. A stately castellated mansion, is the
residence of John Price, Esq. — This place is con-
nected with the name of John Walters, rector of
the parish, who died in 1797. He was master of
Cowbridge School, and compiled a dictionary of
the Welsh language in English and Welsh. — Llan-
bleiddian Castle, within half a mile of Cowbridge,
occupied a commanding situation above the western
bank of the river. Its remains are not considerable.
Llanbleiddian Church, a large and ancient edifice,
containing some fragments ot° monuments originally
commemorative of the owners of the castle, is the
mother church of Cowbridge. Nearly due south
lies Llanmihangel, a seat belonging to the Wynd-
liain family ; and a few miles farther, the village of
Boverton, supposed to be the Bovium of the Itine-
raries. In this neighbourhood is Lantwit Major,
or Llan Illtyd-Fawr, the church of St. Illtyd, called
Major to distinguish it from other churches in the
principality dedicated to the same saint. Illtyd, or
lit ml us
WALES.
711
J kudus the knight, the son of Bioanus, by the sister
of Emyr Lilydaw, was associated with Germanus
and Lupus in their mission to Britain to suppress
the Pelagian heresy. Previously to this time there
existed a collegiate institution at Caer Wrgorn, the
name by which this place was then called. This
•was denominated Cor, or Batigor, Tewdws, the col-
lege or congregation of Theodosius, the original
foundation of it being ascribed to one of the em-
perors of that name. On the arrival of St. Ger-
inanus he found that this seminary had been destroyed
by some Irish invaders, who had carried away
Patrick, the superior. He immediately re-esta-
blished the institution and placed it under the direc-
tion of llltyd. The date of the new foundation is
fixed about the year 418. This college soon became
celebrated over Europe as the most eminent of the
age for the learning and piety of its members,
llltyd is reported to have lived to a very advanced
age, and to have continued at the head of the insti-
tution for ninety years. In common with other re-
ligious foundations in the neighbourhood, it suffered
severely on several successive occasions from the
Saxons and the Danes. Having been destroyed at
the time of the Norman Conquest, Robert, Earl of
Gloucester, the successor of Fitzhamon, re-esta-
blished it in 1111. At the Reformation, its revenues
were seized by the crown, and part of them dis-
posed of to private individuals. — The town of Lant-
wit is at present of inconsiderable size, comprising
a population of about seven hundred individuals ;
but it exhibits numerous vestiges of its ancient ex-
tent and consequence. The cemetery, from the
nnmber of human bones dug up in the adjacent
fields and gardens, appears to have been of vast
extent. The town hall is yet standing, and the
gaol was demolished only a few years ago. From
the name of Gallows way, given to a road leading
from the town, which is thought to have led to a
place of execution, it may be inferred that cases
of life and death were, even at a late period, tried
at this court. The town is said to have lost its
corporate privileges in the reign of Henry VII.
The ruins of the College House are situated in a
garden adjoining the church-yard on the north :
and those of the monastery, with the halls, and other
buildings, are to be seen in a field on the north-west
of the church, called the Hill Head. — In the church
and church-yard are a great number of inscribed
monuments of ancient date, which are stated to
have been removed hither from a place called " the
Great House," where another church is supposed to
have stood. Among the most remarkable of these
is one, commemorative of St. llltyd. It is a flat
stone, and appears to have been originally the shaft
of a cross, in the old church is a curious monu-
mental stone in the form of an ancient coffin, having
a hole in the cover near the head : it is ornamented
with fretwork, and bears an inscription in Saxon
characters. Near it is another stone bearing the
figure of a man in a religious habit. In the vestry
is a large stone bearing a gigantic human figure,
habited in the costume of the 15th century. By the
church porch is a large monumental stone, placed
there in the year 1793, by Edward Williams the
Welsh bard, who, in consequence of an ancient
tradition, caused it to be dug up, in the church-
yard, in 1789.— In the neighbourhood of Lantwit,
is St. Denial's Castle. It is situated on the sea coast,
a few miles to the westward. The remains are con-
siderable, and in hettm- preservation than any other
of the ancient castles of this county. The park
stood on the west, and the garden lay on the south.
The castle and manor of St. Donat's were given by
Fitzhamon to Sir William IcEsterling or Stradliitg,
one of his knights, who probably built this magliifi-
cent structure. The property continued in this
family without interruption for about seven hundred
years, when, owing to the failure of issue, it fell to
the Mansels of Margam, into which family the last
of the Stradlings had married. Within the park,
on the west of the castle, stands a picturesque qua-
drangular tower, on an elevated site commanding a
view of great extent. This building, according to
tradition, was designed for a watch tower, for ob-
serving distressed vessels in stormy weather, to
secure their cargoes for the lord in the event of
their being driven on shore. — Near St. Donat's are
some remains of Marcross Castle ; in the vicinity of
which are the ruins of a religious house, apparently of
great extent. It was probably connected yvith the
college of St. llltyd. — Several other ancient re-
mains exist in this neighbourhood. At the distance
of a few miles from Marcross, in a north-westerly
direction, on a rocky promontory on the sea shore,
stands Dunraven, the seat of Thomas Wyndham,
Esq. The situation is beautiful and romantic, com-
manding several fine sea views. The mansion is an
elegant and spacious structure in the Gothic style,
built by the present proprietor. It was raised on
the site of an older edifice, which was probably the
oldest residence in Wales. The celebrated Carac-
tacus resided here, as did his father Bran ab Llyr.
There is yet remaining a lofty embankment on the
land side of the house, which appears to have ex-
tended across the peninsula, and formed a formidable
barrier in that direction, while the cliffs rendered the
place impregnable on the sea side. This fortifica-
tion is considered to be at least as old as the time of
Caractacus. After the capture of the British hero,
Dindryfan, or Dunraven, ceased to be the principal
seat of the reguli of this district; but the lords of
Glamorgan continued to reside here occasionally
until the conquest of Glamorgan, in the time of
Jestyn ab Gwrgan. — In the partition of the country
by Robert Fitzbamon, this estate fell to the share of
William de Londres, who afterwards gave " the castle
and manor of Dunraven" to his butler, in reward
of his services in defending his castles against
the attacks of the Welsh. This gentleman being
knighted on this occasion Was styled Sir Arnold
Butler. From the Butlers, after several changes, it
was
712
WALES.
was conveyed to the Vaughans, by marriage ; and,
having been held by the Vaughans for a consider-
able interval, it was transferred to the VVyndham
family, also by marriage.* — In the cliffs on the
shore near Dunraveu are very large and curious
excavations formed by the percussion of the sea.
One of a very remarkable appearance extends
parallel with the coast, and resembles a colonnade
whose pillars have not received their last polish. —
At a short tiistance from Cowbridge, on the right,
is Penlline Castle, an ancient edifice, which occu-
pied the summit of an abrupt hill of considerable
elevation, whence the surrounding country to a
great extent, is seen with peculiar advantage. The
date of the original structure is not known. The
remains are not of great extent. Lady Vernon,
Lord Hansel's daughter, bequeathed the Property
to Miss Gwinnette, who has erected an elegant
mansion in the castellated style. From its elevated
situation, Penlline is thought to afford certain prog-
nostics of the weather ; hence the following prover-
bial lines current in Glamorganshire :
When the hoarse waves of Severn are screaming aloud,
And Pennine's lofty castle's involved in a cloud,
If true the old proverb, a shower of rain
Is brooding above, and will soon drench the plain.
Curntown, a little village, about five miles from
Cowbridge, has a large irregular mansion, forming
the residence of General Jones. Below Corntown,
in a meadow bordering the river Ewenny, stand the
ancient and venerable remains of Ewenny Priory,
founded by Maurice de Londres, the fourth in de-
scent from William de Londres, who received this
lordship as his portion from Fitzhamon. The church
is a plain substantial Norman edifice, consisting of
a nave, one aisle, two transepts and a choir, with
a square tower rising in the centre. It contains
oome curious ancient monuments ; and here are still
to be seen some fragments of an elegant pavement,
•which appears to have covered the whole of the floor,
und to have been constructed at the time of the
erection of the church. It is formed of glazed
earthen tiles, about ten inches square, which bear
•various devices of arms and emblematical figures,
methodically arranged in compartments. — Ttie old
mansion, adjoining the church, was thoroughly re-
paired, a few years ago, by the proprietor, R. Tur-
bervilie, Esq. — The original establishment at this
priory is said to have comprised only three monks,
of the Benedictine order. — On the same side of the
* " According to tradition, the last proprietor of that family
(the Vaughans) used to set up lights along the shore, and make
use of other devices 10 mislead seamen, in order that they
might be wrecked on his manor. This wicked practice, as the
popular story goes, did not escape its punishment in this world,
thr^ee of his sons being drowned in one day, by the following
accidents. Within sight of the house is a large rock, railed the
Swiscar, dry onl> at low water, but at other times covered by
the sea. To this rock two of his sons went in a boat, in order to
care to fasten tiieir bo.it, on tne rising of the tide it was carried
divert themselves ; but in landing, they not taking sufficient
Ewenny, lower down the stream, at its junction
with the Ogmore, stand the remains of Oi>-more
Castle ; and, on the western side of the Ogmore
river, nearly opposite, stands Cautleston, the seat
of John Franklin, Esq. At a short distance higher
up is Merthyr Mawr, an elegant modern edifice,
built by Sir John Nichols.
LLANTRISSENT.] — The town of Llantrissent, 10
miles from LlandafT, is seated on the brow of a lofty
hill which overlooks an extensive range of the most
beautiful and fertile parts of the vale of Glamorgan.
The remains of the castle are inconsiderable ; but
they command some fine views. In general, the
houses are poor ; but the town contains some re-
spectable private dwellings. The church, a large
Norman edifice, is dedicated to the three saints,
Ilhog, Devong, and Monow ; from which circum-
stance the town derives its name. The town-hall and
market-place, were built at the expense of Lord Bute.
Llantrissent is a contributory borough to Cardiff.
In this parish was born Sir Llewelyn, or Leolinus,
Jenkins ; the second founder, as he has been termed,
of Jesus College, Oxford. — Proceeding along the
turnpike road from Llantrissent towards Llandaff, on
the right, are some ruins of an ancient religious
edifice, said to have been a monastery dedicated to
St. Cawrdaf, son of Caradoc Fraichfras ; and, about
three miles farther, on the bank ot the Ely, is Miskin,
the residence of Mr. White. On the left is Park,
the residence of Mr. Price ; near which are the iron
works of Pentyrch.
LADGHOR.] — The town of Latighor, in Welsh Car
Llwchwr, one of the contributory boroughs to Car-
diff, is pleasantly situated on the eastern bank of
the river, from which it derives its name. It is only
of small extent ; but the corporation consists of a
portrieve, twelve aldermen, an ale-taster, and two
sergeants at mace. Here are the remains of a square
rustic, the foundation of which is attributed to Henry
Beaumont, Earl of Warwick. Laughor is supposed
to be the Leiicarum of the Itineraries. Roman coins
have been found here ; and, a little to the eastward
of the town, are the vestiges of two small Roman
encampments. At low water, the river is fordable ;
but, at other times, it is crossed by a ferry-boat,
kept by the lord of the manor. About five miles
distant, stands Penllergaer, the seat of John Lle-
wellyn, Esq. a little to the northward of which is
Brynwhilach, the property of Mr. Reynolds, a well
known dramatic writer.
MERTHYR TYDVIL.] — This place, distinguished for
away, and they left to all the horrors of their fate, which was
inevitable, as the Tamil} had no other boat, nor was there any
one in the neighbourhood. Theirdistress was descried from the
house, which was tilled with contusion and sorrow, insomuch
that an infant that was just able to walk, being left alone fell
into a ves-el of whey, ami was drowned almost the same instant
as his two brothers. This was nuivi really looked on as a judg-
ment tor the iniquitous actions above mentioned ; and it is
added that Mr. Vaui;hari « as so struck «»h (lit misfortune, that
he never after couKl endure llic hou'v, bul sold it to a Me.
Wjndham, ancestor of the present proprietor."
its
WALES.
713
its numerous and extensive iron works, is 24 miles
from Cardiff, and 184 from London. It derives its
name from Tydfil, or Tuclfil, one of the daughters of
Brychan, the regulus of Garthmadrin, and the wife
of Cyngen ab Cadell. Her father having1 retired,
with some of his family, to this neighbourhood, they
were attacked by a marauding party of Pagan Saxons,
•who slew Brychan, her brother Rhun Dremrudd, and
herself. A church was afterwards erected near the
scene of this slaughter, and called after her Mertbyr
Tydvil, or Tydvil the Martyr. The modern import-
ance of Merthyr is derived, however, from its manu-
factories.— Notwithstanding an early attention to the
iron mines of the neighbourhood, they remained of
comparatively little importance till about the middle
of the last century, when Mr. Anthony Bacon, for-
merly member of Parliament for Aylesbury in Buck-
inghamshire, obtained a lease for the term of ninety-
nine years of the iron ore and coal contained in a
tract of country extending about eight miles in one
direction, and four miles in another. Having erected
a smelting furnace at Cyfarlhfa, and a forge for the
purpose of converting the pig into bar iron, lie,
early in the American war, obtained a contract from
thecrowntosupply 'he different arsenals with cannon.
At the same time a. new turnpike road was con-
structed down the vale as far as Cardiff, a distance
of about twenty -five miles, along which the cannon
were conveyed in waggon* to the shipping wharf at
the latter place. About this time, works ior smelt-
ing and forging iron wero erected at Dowlais, at
Pendarren, in the same valley, and also at Plymouth.
At length, having realized a large fortune, Mr.
Bacon disposed of his interest in his mines and
manufactories, for a tr.rm of years, at an enormous
profit. The Dowlais works fell into the hands of
Messrs. Lewis and Tate ; the Pendarren into those
of Mr. Homfray ; the Plymouth were taken by Mr.
Hill; but Cy fart hfii, the most extensive, were dis-
posed of to Mr. Richard Crawshay, then an iron
merchant in London. All these establishments rapidly
advanced iu importance ; those at Cyfarthfa especi-
ally ; so Merthyr, from an insignificant and obscure
village, became the first town, in extent and popu-
lation, in the principality. The population, in 1811,
amounted to 11,104.— Nothing can be more irre-
gular, more offensive to the eye, or more injurious
to the health of the inhabitants, than the arrange-
ment of the streets and houses. The houses were
originally erected in the situation which best suited
the convenience of the proprietor of the ground ;
and, as the increasing population called for new
erections, the same method was successively follow-
ed.— A considerable trade is carried on here in pro-
visions, and manufactured shop goods of every de-
scription, for the supply of the numerous inhabitants
of the town and neighbourhood. Here are two
markets in the week. The old church, proving too
small to accommodate the increasing population, was
pulled down some years ago, and a neat edifice on
a larger scale built" in its stead. — About three miles
VOL. iv. — NO. 192.
to the north-eastward of Merthyr, near the lesser
Taf, and adjoining the old mountain road from Car-
diff to Brecknock, are the ruins of Morlais Castle,
constituting a picturesque object. This fortress was
built, by Gilbert, Earl of Gloucester, as a border
fortress for the protection of his estates in this vici-
nity.— A steep road, which leads nearly due west from
Merthyr over a lolty ridge, conducts, at the distance
of about four miles, to the village of Aberdare,
which is pleasantly situated, in a sheltered valley,
on the banks of the rivers Dar, and Cynon. The
church, which is dependant on the vicarage of
Llantrissent, is remarkable for the rustic simplicity
of'its architecture. This village is gradually losing
its rural character, and assuming the appearance
and manners of Merthyr Tydvil. Two large iron
works have been erected in its vicinity, at Abernant
and Lhvydcoed ; and its traffic has in consequence
been greatly increased. A canal for the conveyance
of the produce of the works, has been constructed
alone; the vale of Cynon, which communicates with
the Merthyr and Cardiff canal above Pont y Prydd.
Rail roads have also been formed in the opposite
direction, which join the Neath canal at its head,
below Pont Neath Vaughan. — The neighbourhood
of Aberdare was the scene of a sanguinary engage-
ment between Rhys ab Tewdwr, and Jestyn ab
Gwrgan, in which the latter was aided by the forces
under Fitzhamon. Hirwain Common, on which the
b:»ttle was fought, commences about a mile to the
northward of the village. The names of several
places in this vicinity indicate the presence of armies
and military works. — About eight miles from Aber-
dare, thero;id descends i;ito the vale of tlu> Rhondda,
and crosses that river near its junction with the Taf,
a short distance below Pont y Prydd. The neigh-
bourhood of Ystracldyfodog, in (he hilly country
through which it passes, is particularly striking.
After crossing the Rhondda, the road rises out of
the valley in a direction nearly due south ; and, at the
distance of about two miles on the right, stands the
mansion of Castella, or Castellau, the residence of
Edmund Treharne, Esq.
NEATH.] — The market-town of Neath, the \idiim
of the Itineraries, is 32 miles from Llandaff, and
197 from London. It is pleasantly situated on the
eastern bank of the Neath, between which and the
town runs a navigable canal. The population, in
1811, was 2740. Many of the houses are respect-
able. The principal public building is the town-hall,
in the middle of the market-place, having n covered
market underneath. The church, a large and hand-
some structure, has a chancel at one end, and at the
other a substantial square lower surmounted by au
embattled parapet. — Neath is a contributory borough
to Cardiff. It is governed by a purtrieve, twelve
aldermen, a recorder, &c. Here is no manufactory
of importance. Formerly there were some copper
works on a large scale at Melin Crythan, a mile to
the ea'stward of the town ; but they have long been
discontinued. While the Cardiganshire lead mines
8 s were
714
WALES.
were in their most productive state, works were
established here by Sir Humphrey Mnekworth for
smelting the ore, the pigs being afterwards sent to
Bristol, &c. The mines of the adjacent country still
create a considerable trade here, which has been
greatly facilitated and extended by the construction
of a navigable canal from the upper part of the vale
_4o a shipping place at Briton Ferry, and commu-
nicating with the iron works near Aberdare. The
rivef is navigable as high as the town quays
for ships of two hundred tons burden. — The only
vestiges of antiquity which this place has now to
boast are the remains of its castle ; a structure
which does not however appear to have been at
any time of great extent or strength. The vicinity
of Neath may be ranked among the most beautiful
and interesting districts of South Wales. — Gnoll
Castle, the ancient seat of the Mackworths, rises
with baronial pomp and grandeur on the brow of a
hill, overlooking the town and adjacent country. The
grounds were laid out with much taste by Sir Her-
bert Mackworth ; by whose family the estate was
sold to Mr. Grant the present possessor. A little
to the eastward stands Cringell, the residence of
William Davies, Esq. — The high road up the vale
of Neath lies on the western side of the river, which
is crossed at the town by a handsome stone bridge.
At the distance of a mile is the village of Cadoxton,
or Llangattwg, containing the seats of Walker,
Esq. and John Miers, Esq. The church, a large
itructure, with a lofty square tower, is remarkable
for containing the entire history of the family of
Williams of Dyffryn, traced for several generations.
Jt is engraved on several sheets of copper, and con-
cludes with Philip Williams, Esq. who died the
6th of November, 1717. — In this parish are some
remains of intrenchments, inscribed stones, &c. At
the little village of Aberdulais, a mile beyond Ca-
doxton, is a remarkably fine waterfall ; and, some
miles higher up, on the other side of the vale, near
some iron works, called Melin Court, is another.
Ynis-y-Gerwn, a little beyond Aberdulais, is an old
seat of John Llewelyn, Esq. of Penllergaer ; far-
ther on, about eight miles from Neath, is Rheola, a
neat modern mansion belonging to John Edwards,
Esq. ; two miles beyond which is Aberpergwm, the
seat of William Williams, Esq. — About four miles
from Neath, a road on the right conducts to the old
mansion of Kilybebill., the seat of John Herbert
Lloyd, Esq. On the mountain to the eastward of
the house, are several ancient druidical remains. —
About two miles beyond the turning to Kilybebill
House, the road crosses the Tawe over a bridge of
one arch, called Pojit ar Dawe, built by the architect
of Pont y Prydd. The chord is eighty feet, and the
arch is lofty and singularly .beautiful.— -On the right
of the road, one mile from the bridge, stood the
ancient mansion of Gelligron ; in the neighbourhood
of which are several druidical remains, kist-vaens,
&c. In Cwm Clydach, a valley on the western side
of Gellionnen Mountain, is .the old family residence
of Caethyld. To the westward of Neath, about a
mile, is Neath Abbey, in the low grounds bordering'
on the. river. A considerable portion of this once
splendid edifice is standing ; but the dusky tinge of
the ruins, incurred by the smoke of the neighbour-
ing copper works, has greatly injured its pictu-
resque beauty. The walls of the priory house are
nearly entire, but the abbey church exhibits little
more than a heap of ruins. It appears to have been
paved with glazed earthen tiles, richly ornamented
fragments of which are at times discovered. No
correct idea can be formed of the original extent
and magnificence of this edifice. Foundations of
buildings are to be traced in the adjacent grounds
for a considerable distance, and some of the houses
still standing in the village above, were evidently
at one time connected with the main building. The
founder of this abbey was Richard de Grenville,
the younger brother of Robert Fitzhamon. Near
the abbey, on the other side of the turnpike road,
is Court Herbert, the neat residence of Edward
Hawkins, Esq. Besides copper works, there is
in the abbey village, a large iron fouudery. Beyond
the abbey, on the right, in an elevated situation,
stands Drummeu House ; the views from which are
very extensive and delightful, comprehending a
great part of tVie two vallies of Neath and Tawe,
with the Bristol Channel, backed by the hills of
Somerset and Devon in front. On the brow of the
same hill, stands the mansion of Glanbran. On
Drummeu Mountain are some druidical mountains
of interest. Four miles from Neath, on the right
of the turnpike Voad, stands Gwernllwynwhith, the
seat of Henry Smith, Esq. A short distance above,
is Birchgrove, the seat of Morgan, Esq.
Five miles from Neath the Tawe is crossed by an
elegant stone bridge of one arch, ninety feet in the
chord, the work of the architect of Pont y Prydd,
in his best style. In front of the road, at this place,
about a mile and a half distant, stands Clasmont,
the seat of Sir John Morris, Bart. At the bridge
just mentioned, the road to Swansea turns abruptly
to the left in the direction of the river, and leads
through Morriston, a large straggling village, built
for the accommodation of the persons employed in
the neighbouring collieries, copper works, &c. Here
are several respectable edifices, occupied by agents
belonging to the works, and others. An elegant
chapel of ease has been erected here.
SWANSEA.] — Swansea, a market-town, and one
of the contributory boroughs to Cardiff, is 206
miles from London. Its Welsh name, Abertawe,
is derived from its situation on a point of land near
the junction of the Tawe with the sea. The English
name is believed to have been originally written
Swinesea, or Sweinsey, from the porpoises which
abound in the Bristol Channel. The Tawe is here
navigable for ships of large burden, and the town
lias extensive quays with every necessary accommo-
dation for shipping and unloading the cargoes. It
is about a mile and a half, or two miles in length,
including
WALES.
71,5
including: the suburb of Greenliill ; but the greatest
width does not exceed half a mile. The streets are
numerous, and contain many well-built houses,
occupied by opulent individuals. In 1811 the popu-
lation amounted to 8196; add in the summer, from the
great influx of strangers, who resort hither for sea-
bathing, it must be much greater. The lodging-
houses are, in general, very handsome, and many
of them are adapted for the receptioYi of families of
the first distinction. The principal of these are at
Mount Pleasant, a beautiful situation gently ele-
vated above the town, on the western side, com-
manding a charming prospect of the bay ; and on
the Burrows, a level spot by the sea side. The
town-hall, spacious and handsome, was built on a
part of the castle enclosure in the middle of the
town. A commodious theatre, in one of the principal
streets, is, during the bathing season, well attended.
It was built by tontine shares of ten pounds each ;
as were some public rooms, on the Burrows. The
principal manufactories are the potteries, of which
there are two on a large scale. The ware is of prime
quality, and large quantities are annually shipped
for the English markets. This is a soap manu-
factory, by the river side. — The commerce of Swan-
sea is considerable. The chief exportation is coal,
particularly stone coal and culm, brought down by
the canal. The number of vessels, annually entered
out from the port is nearly, if not quite, 3000, com-
prehending about '200,000 tons. — The corporation
have for many years been laudably exerting them-
selves in improving the harbour; prodigious sums
having been expended in clearing and deepening
the bed of the river, and removing some obstacles
at its entrance from the sea. Two large and hand-
some piers have also been run out, one from the
eastern, and the other from the western side, to confine
the channel, and afford shelter for large ships which
might be loaded without proceeding to the town
quays. More recently, a short cross pier has been
formed within the harbour. — The corporation con-
sists of a portrieve, twelve aldermen, two common
attornies, or chamberlains, town-clerk, and two ser-
geants at mace. The Saturday's market is one of
the best attended of any in the principality. Some
handsome shambles stand within the castle precincts.
The old market-house, a mere roof supported by
pillars, in the middle of the town, is covered with
the lead stripped offone of the chapels at St. David's,
which was presented by Oliver Cromwell to a gen-
tleman of the town. — A free-school was endowed
here in 1684, by Dr. Hugh Gore, Bishop of Water-
ford and Lismore ; the mastership of which is in
the presentation of Lord Jersey, as the holder of the
Briton Ferry estate. Here also are Lancasterian |
and other schools. The town is comprised in one
parish. The church, a handsome modern edifice,
has a middle aisle, and two side aisles, with a large
square tower at one end. The old church fell down
in 1739. Here are some old monuments, from the
former edifice. One, of the altar kind, richly de-
corated, but much mutilated and defaced, comme-
morates Sir Matthew Cradock and his lady, whose
effigies are recumbent upon it. In the chancel is a
curious brass tablet to the memory of Sir Hugh
Johns, with the figures of himself, his wife, five
sons and four daughters engraved upon it. — Near
the upper extremity of the town is another small
church, formerly a chapel belonging to the knights of
Jerusalem. The parish to which it pertains lies
without the town boundaries. Here are several
places of worship, belonging: to various denomi-
nations of dissenters. The Presbyterian meeting-
house is one of the oldest in South Wales. Henry
Gower, bishop of the see, founded an hospital here
in 1332, which was valued at the Dissolution, at 20/.
per annum. The castle is situated on an elevated
spot in the middle of the town. The principal por-
tion that remains entire is a lofty circular tower,
from the summit of which a line view is commanded
of the circumjacent country and of the bay. On the
eastern side of the tower a large part of the original
building is standing, which is surmounted by an
elegant parapet, with arched openings. Some
apartments, yet habitable, have been converted into
a poor house, and a gaol, principally for debtors. —
According to Caradoc, of Llancarvan, this castle
was built, in 1099, by Henry Beaumont, Earl of
Warwick, who made war upon the sons of Caradoc
ab Jestyn, who then held the district of Gower, to
enrich himself by the spoil. Swansea Castle must,
however, have been much enlarged and strengthened
at subsequent periods. After the subjugation of
Gower, Henry Beaumont brought over a colony of
English settlers from Somersetshire, whose descen-
dants yet remain here separated by their language
and manners from the native population, with whom,
like the Flemings in Pembrokeshire, they scarcely
every intermarry. — Swansea Castle belongs to the
Duke of Beaufort, who holds the lordship of Gower.
The ancient mansion of the Lords of Gower stood
near the castle in a large quadrangular court, and
was entered from the street by a grand archway,
which was taken down several years ago. A street
has since been opened through the court and part of
the buildings, and now forms the communication
between Castle Bailey Street and Goat Street. —
The appearance of Swansea, from the bay and from
the high grounds in the neighbourhood, is striking
and picturesque ; and the general aspect of the in-
terior is much superior to that of most Welsh towns.
The situation is healthy, and the beach remarkably
commodious for bathing. For the accommodation
of invalids, warm and cold salt water baths have been
made on the Burrows, and also near the pottery by
the river side. In the neighbourhood are numbers
of agreeable walks and rides ; while the bay, one
of the finest in Europe, furnishes abundant gratifi-
cation to those who prefer aquatic excursions. — A
weekly newspaper has long been published here.
Swansea has also a public library. This town, or
its vicinity, is considered, by some, as the birth-place
of
716
WALES.
of the poet Gower, the contemporary, and friend
of Chaucer. In Swansea was also born, the cele-
brated Richard Nash ; of whom, in our account of
Bath, we have given some particulars. — The pro-
montory of Gower, to the westward of Swansea,
is ornamented with many gentlemen's residences,
and the remains of some ancient edifices. Heath-
field Lodge, the seat of the late Sir G. Powell ;
St. Helen's, the seat of J. Jones, Esq. ; Marino,
the property of E. King, Esq. ; Sketty Lodge, the
occasional residence of R. M.Phdipps, Esq.; Wood-
lands, the seat of General Ward ; and Norton Lodge,
the residence of Hemming, Esq. ; are all
pleasantly situated in Swansea Bay. — About five
miles from Swansea stands Oystermouth Castle, a
bold and majestic ruin, occupying a gentle eminence
in an angle of the bay. The village of Oyster-
mouth is pleasantly situated on the sea shore within
the Mumble point, a bold rocky projection which
runs some distance into the sea. An excellent light-
house, at the extremity, has been essentially ser-
viceable to the navigation of the Bristol Channel.
The shore is here formed of limestone rock of great
elevation ; and so continues to the westward, with
occasional openings or bays, which present some
very grand and beautiful scenery. — Near Oyster-
mouth are some remains of Pennarth Castle, sup-
posed to have been one of the Earl of Warwick's
fortresses. Beyond are the ruins of Penrice Castle,
near which is the modern villa that bears the name.
The name, which means Rhys's head, was given to
it in consequence of Rhys, the son of Caradoc ab
Jestyn, having been shiin near the spot in defending
the territories of his family against the Norman free-
booter. The present mansion contains several fine
pictures, &c. The grounds are laid out and orna-
mented with great taste. — On Cefn Bryn, a moun-
tain which rises a little to the norlhward o( Penrice,
is a large cromlech, called Arthur's Stone. South-
all, at the foot of this mountain, is the elegant seat
of John Lucas, Esq. The remains of Oxwich
Castle stand on the shore of Oxwich Bay, a little
below Penrice. The promontory of Gower is ter-
minated by Wormshead, a rocky point so called
from its imagined resemblance to a worm crawling
with its head erect. A little to the northward of
Wormshead, at Llangennydd, was once a priory
founded by Roger, Earl of Warwick, in the reign of
King Stephen. On Llanmadoc Hill, above Llan-
gennydd, are some remains of a small Roman en*
campment.
^PEMBROKESHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.] — This county, seated on
the south-west extremity of Wales, is bounded, on
the east, by Carmarthenshire ; on the north-east,
by Cardiganshire; on the north, and west, by the
Irish Sea ; and, on' tire south, by the Bristol Chan-
nel. In consequence of the encroachment of Car-
marthenshire, on the east, and of its numerous bays
on the coast, its form is very irregular. Some of
the bays are hardly to he equalled for the advantages
they are capable of affording to navigation. There
are also several islands on the coast. The greatest
length of the county, from north to south, lias been
estimated at 30 miles ; its greatest width, in the
latitude of St. David's, at 33 miles ; its smallest
diameter, from St. Bride's Bay to Egermond, at
13 miles ; and its circumference at 120 miles. Cary
estimates its superficial contents at 345,000 acres ;
llassal, at 335,600 acres ; and the official returns
at 368,000. The surface of this county is chiefly
composed of smelts, or easy slopes ; and the springs
which rise in the slopes afford an abundant suoply
of water to the adjacent lands. In the sunnier
season, however, some parts of the coast are, at
times, in want of water. The air is generally moist ;
and, from the insular situation of the county, and
the high mountains of Brecknockshire and Carmar-
thenshire eastward, which stop the current of the
clouds brought by the westerly winds from the At-
lantic Ocean, and thereby occasion torrents of rain
to descend in Pembrokeshire whenever those winds
prevail, it is thought that a greater quantity of rain
falls here than in any other part of the kingdom.
Wood is scarce in this county, particularly towards
the west : the interior is better wooded, but the
growth is slow. The climate is temperate.; frost
seldom continues with severity any considerable
time ; nor does snow lie long upon the ground. The
principal rivers of this county are the eastern and
western Cleddans, whose united waters form the
celebrated haven ofMilford, called in Welsh, from
this circumstance, Aberdaugleddau, or the haven
with two swords. The Western Cled'lau rises at
the foot of a hill in this county, railed Vrenny Cawr,
some miles south-east from Newport, and takes a
southern course till it falls into the mouth of the
Eastern Cleddau, near its conflux with the sea at
Milford Haven. The Eastern Cleddau rises to the
south of Fisgard, and, running south-east and
south, passes by Haverfonl West, and falls with the
Western Cleddau into Milford Haven. The less
considerable rivers are the Gwaine, the Biran, the
Kiog, the Nevern, and the Radical. Throughout
nearly the whole of Pembrokeshire, the face of the
county presents a diversified undu'atory appearance.
None of the hills, however, are of sufficient eleva-
tion to aspire to the rank of mountains, except a
ridge which runs from the coast near Fisgard to
the bottom of Carmarthenshire. These hills, known
by the general name of Percelly, are called the
mountains.; and the people distinguish the country
with reference to them ; the south side being called
below the mountains, and the north side above.
The first summit, near the western extremity, is
called Moel-Eryr; the next elevation is Cwn Cer-
win hill ; and the easternmost summit is Vrenny-
bawr, or Vrennyvawr. In the district of Roos, and
some other parts, are remarkable masses of rock,
which, from a distance, appear like ruinated castles.
Geologists
WALES.
717
Geologists have conjectured <hem to be the skeletons i
of liills, from which the soil has been washed by the i
rains of successive ages. — The mineral treasures of |
this county are neither various nor important. In
the parish of Llanvyrnach, some lead mines were j
formerly wrought, to considerable advantage. On !
the eastern shore of Milford Haven, and on a small
promontory in St. Bride's Bay, some unsuccessful
attempts to procure gold and silver have respectively
been made. The limestone of Pembrokeshire is of
an excellent quality for manure, and also for the
purposes of building ; but the coal, which is of the \
stone species, is inferior to that of Glamorganshire i
and Carmarthenshire. The only mineral water of j
note in this county is a chalybeate spring, supposed
to be strongly impregnated with alum, at TreruiFydd,
near the coast, a few miles north from Newport.
The principal soils in this county are a strong red
loam, generally from six to fourteen inches in depth,
having a substratum of red argillaceous rock called
Rabb ; a dark grey loam from six to twelve inches
in depth, upon a blue and brown rock ; a light spungy
peat, usually on a clay bottom ; and, principally in
the hundred of Castle Martin, a rich loam of consi-
derable depth, on a substratum of limestone rock,
deemed peculiarly well adapted for the growth of
corn. — The grains mostly raised here are wheat,
barley, and oats, with some rye. The mujority of
farmers pursue the pernicious system of taking from
the ground, after wheat, barley and oats, till the
land is completely exhausted. Sufficient attention
has not been given to green crops. Turnips are
cultivated on some of the best farms, and peas more
generally, but not with great success. Lime con-
stitutes an important article of manure over the
greater part of the county. In the hundred of
Dewisland shelly sea sand is commonly used. The
quantity of yard muck raised here is comparatively
small. Paring and burning is practised very par-
tially. Irrigation is little thought of; but, by
draining, extensive tracts of land have been restored,
and rendered productive. Hassel, in his Agricul-
tural Report of this county, speaking of the ptouirh,
observes, that " perhaps a more awkward unmeaning
tool is not to be found in any civilized country. It
is not calculated to cut a furrow, but to tear it open j
by main force. The share is like a large wedge. : j
the coulter comes before the point of the share some- i
times, and sometimes it stands above it. The earth
board is a thing never thought of, but a. stick (a
hedge stake or any thing) is fastened from the right
side of the heel of the share, and extends to the hind j
part of the plough. This is intended to turn the j
furrow, which it sometimes performs, and sometimes
not : so that a field ploughed with this machine looks i
as if a drove of swine had been moiling it." Some !
agriculturists have, however, adopted a plough of <
a better construction. The harrows are of a very i
indifferent kind. Carts, employed all over the j
county, are generally drawn by two oxen yoked i
abreast, with a long pole to answer the purpose of I
VOL. iv. — NO. 192.
a shaft, preceded by a pair of horses, also abreast.
The farms are of a mixed kind, corn being raised
on them all, and a portion of each being allotted for
the dairy and the rearing of stock. The waste lauds
have been estimated at 22,220 acres, of which 14,220
acres have been deemed convertible to agricultural
purposes, and 8000 acres incapable of cultivation.
These wastes are used as sheep walks, or as pasture
lands for young cattle. A large proportion is com-
mon land, to which certain farmers have a right, of
undefined limits, of sending their stock to feed.
These commons, also, furnish many of the inhabi-
tants with peat, for fuel. — The black cattle here are
of a superior breed, and in great request for the
English market. The agricultural horses are of
middling size, strong and active. The saddle horses
are remarkably good. The farm buildings are gene-
rally of an ordinary kind, and in the worst situations.
A large proportion of the farms are let from year
to year. Several proprietors grant leases, usually
for three lives, and the rent estimated by the annual
value ; the system of fines being unknown, except
in the case of church lands. The size of the farms
varies, from 50 to 500 acres. — The etymology of
Pembrokeshire is involved in obscurity. Pembroke
was originally the designation of a district of the
county, nearly corresponding with the present hun-
dred of Castle Martin, comprising the promontory
lying between Milford Haven on the north, and the
Bristol Channel on the south. The name was after-
wards transferred to the town and fortress built here
by Anulph de Montgomery, in the reign of Henry 1.
and thence given to the county itself. Giraklus de-
rives the name from the situation of the town, " on
a rocky eminence extending with two branches of
Milford Haven ;" ' Pemhroch' signifying, according
to him, cttput marilum; or the head of the scstuary.
This etymology, however, can be admitted only in
reference to the town and castle, being wholly in-
applicable to the province to which the appellation
was first given. Mr. George Owen derives the name
from the fertility of the soil, Pembro, or Penfro, a*
it is called in Welsh, from the two British words Pen
and hro, the chief vale. The British term liro, be-
sides designating a vale, is used for a region or dis-
trict; and Pen, which means a head, and is frequently
used for the end or extremity of any thing, being pre-
fixed, the compound word may be translated head-
land, or promontory, descriptive of the territory
to which the name was originally appropriated. — •
Nothing is known of the history of this district ante-
cedently to the subjugation of South Wales by the
Romans ; nor are there extant any memorials of the
occupation of the county by that people, besides the'
works which they have left behind them. For a con-
siderable period subsequently to their departure, its
history is also involved in obscurity ; but it may be
reasonably conjectured, that, like other parts of the
principality, it was partitioned out among several
lords, princes, or kings, who held their territories
by independent tenures. This country was among
8 T the
718
WALES.
the first (o suffer from the depredations of that horde
of military a-.lventurers, who were turned loose upon
the kingdom by the Norman conqueror after he had
seated himself oti tlie British throne. One of the
most remarkable circumstances connected with the
history of Pembrokeshire, is the settlement of a
colony of Flemings among the native popoulation.
It appears that, about the year 1106, during a tre-
mendous storm on the coast of Flanders, the sand-
hills and embankments were in many places carried
away, and the sea forced over a large tract of the
country. The losses and distress occasioned by this
calamity led a large body of the inhabitants to seek
an asylum in England. They were first admitted
into some of the northern counties ; but their con-
duct soon rendering t,Ucin hateful, they were re-
moved into Pembrokeshire, and placed in the district
of Roos. How long they remained there is not known ;
but Caradoc of Lancarvan states, that after a few
years they disappeared. A short time afterwards, a
second inundation forced another body of Flemings
into England. King Henry being at this time pressed
for men to oppose the rising power of Gruffydd ab
Rhys in South Wales, and being a little suspicious
probably of the fidelity of Gerald de Windsor, sent
this colony also into Pembrokeshire, with orders to
his commanders there to provide them with habita-
tions and the means of subsistence, on condition
that they would consider themselves as the subjects
of the English monarch, and act under his com-
manders in his Welsh wars. On these terms they
had assigned to them the district which had before
been given to their countrymen ; and in order to bind
them the more closely to the English interests, the
king is said to have placed some English settlers
among them to teach them their language, and habi-
tuate them to English customs. — At this period, the
part of Pembrokeshire held by the Anglo-Normans
seems to have been regarded as the property of the
crown, the commander for the time acting merely
under a delegated authority, and being amenable
for his administration to the reigning sovereign : but
in the beginning of Stephen's reign, Gilbert de Clare,
surnamed Strongbow, who had rendered himself
master of the greater part of Cardiganshire, was
created Earl of Pembroke, and invested with all the
powers of a lord marcher over the country from
which he derived his new title. After various changes,
Henry VIII. on coming to the throne, retained the
earldom in his own hands, a.nd createtl Anne Bullen,
Marchioness of Pembroke. The district was, -by the
act of union in this reign, formed into a county,
subject to the jurisdiction of the English laws ; con-
sequently, the earldom of Pembroke became a mere
title of honour, and the history of the county merges
in that of the kingdom at large. The first Earl of
Pembroke created after this alteration was William
Herbert, Lord Stewart, in the reign of Edward VI.
iu whose descendants the honour s.till remains. — The
county, as at present divided, includes the seven
hundreds of Castle Martin, Roos, Dewisland, Dun-
gleddy, Narberth, Kemess, and Kilgerran ; which
comprise 140 parishes, and three parts of parishes.
It has one city, St. David's, the seat of its cathe-
dral, and seven market-towns ; Pembroke, Haver-
ford West, Millord, Tenby, Narberth, Fishgard, and
Newport; having seven petty sessions, and sixty
county magistrates. — The population of Pembroke-
shire, in 1700, was 41,300; in 1750, 44,800; in
1801, 58,200 (with the allowance for absentees) ;
and, in 1811, \vith a proportionate allowance, 62,700.
— Here are no manufactories entitled to particular
notice. The late Sir Benjamin Hammet had tin
works on the Teivi, near Lleehryd ; but they were
not profitable ; and, soon after his death, his son
had the establishment broken up. The cotton mill,
erected near Haverford West, was also relinquished
as an unprofitable speculation ; and the design of
erecting a linen manufactory, on an extensive scale,
was abandoned. — With all the advantages arising
from its noble haven, Pembrokeshire has hitherto
acquired but a slight commercial importance. A
little coasting trade is carried on from the ports with
English markets, chiefly for the exportation of coal
and the supplying of the shopkeepers with merchan-
dize.— The turnpike roads have been justly com-
plained of as ranking among the worst in the prin-
cipality ; but several improvements in them have, of
late years, been effected.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
DAVID'S ST.] —St. David's, a city in the hundred
of Dewisland, 16 miles from Haverford West, and
267 from London, contained, according to the latest
returns, 414 houses, and 1803 inhabitants. It ex-
hibits scarcely the ruins of what it once was. —
" Such is the situation of this place," observes a
modern writer, " that in approaching it from the
eastward, none of the buildings are to be seen at
any distance; and while the traveller, calculating
his progress by the milestones he has passed, is
anxiously looking for the object of his search, he
finds himself unexpectedly in the midst of the prin-
cipal street. As, however, he has on either side of
him only a broken row of miserable cottages, with
here and there indeed a structure of more respect-
able appearance, he would scarcely suspect that he
had reached his destination, were he not presented
in front with a glimpse of the top of the cathedral
tower, rising from the narrow anil concealed valley
in which that venerable edifice is situated. Who-
ever visits St. David's with such expectations as
the ideas usually associated with the title of a city
are calculated to excite, will be sure to experience a
most grievous disappointment ; for no collection of
houses aspiring to the rank of a town can exhibit a
more wretched and sickening appearance. Not-
withstanding, however, its present squalid aspect,
it bears many marks indicative of its former conse-
quence. The names of several streets and lanes
are still preserved, and the line of some of them may
be distinctly traced by the ruins of the houses, and
foundations
WALES.
719
foundations of walls. The modern city, without the
cathedral precincts, is principally composed of the
High Street, which is of considerable width. In
an open space near its western extremity stands an
ancient cross, around which the market was held
while it lasted : but tiie decreasing population, and
the poverty of the place, long ago caused this to be
discontinued. Fairs are, however, still held here.
There is one small comfortable inn in the place."
The ground occupied by the cathedral, the houses
of the resident ecclesiastics, with the cemetery,
gardens, &c. was enclosed by a lofty wall of nearly
a mile in circuit, and was entered by four strong
and handsome gateways. That on the north was
called Forth Bwnning1, Bunning's Gate; that on
the south Forth Patrick, Patrick's Gate ; that on
the east Forth y Twr, the Tower Gate ; and that
on the west Forth Gwyn, or the White Gate. The
east gate, at the bottom of the High Street, cor-
responds with its Welsh name, standing between
two large towers ; one of which is an octagon, about
sixty feet high, the interior divided into stories, the
apartments of which were formerly used for holding
the consistory court of the diocese. The other
tower, of a different form, is thought to have been
appropriated tw the corporation of the town. Over
the gateway are some apartments which connect the
two towers above. From this spot a delightful view
is commanded of the cathedral, St. Mary's College,
the bishop's palace, &c. The cathedral is a large
Gothic structure of venerable appearance, cruciform,
and having a lofty square tower, surmounted by
handsome pinnacles at each corner, rising from the
middle, at the intersection of the north and south
transepts. The common entrance is through a
porch on the south side, but the principal entrance
is by a grand doorway in the west end, called the
bishop's door, which is used only on occasions of
ceremony. There is another doorway, of Saxon
architecture, on the north side, at the west end of
the cloisters. The interior comprises a nave, and
two side aisles, the choir, and chancel. The nave
is divided from the side aisles by a row of handsome
columns, alternately round and octagon, five in
number, with corresponding pilasters at each end,
supporting six elegant arches of ornamental Saxon
architecture. Over these is a range of smaller
Saxon pillars supporting other arches of less dimen-
sions, reaching to the roof. The ceiling of the nave
is of Irish oak. It is divided into square compart-
ments, and is justly admired for the elegance of its
workmanship. It is, however, in a state of decay.
The length of this part of the church is 124 feet ;
the width of the nave between the pillars is 32 feet ;
and of the side aisles 18 feet. At the upper end of
the nave, a flight of steps conducts tn the choir, which
is entered by an arched passage under the rood loft.
The screen is of irregular Gothic architecture, and
is extremely beautiful. The choir is placed imme-
diately under the tower, which is supported by four
large arches, three of them Gothic, and one Suxon,
but all of them springing from Saxon pillars. The
west and south arches are now walled up. The
organ is placed under the northern arch. The bishop'0
throne, near the upper end of the choir on the right
hand side, is of exquisite workmanship. The stalls,
twenty-eight in number, are on the north, west, and
south, sides. The floor is formed of small square
tiles of variegated colours, beautifully arranged.
The chancel is separated from the choir by a low
screen. On the north side is the shrine of St. David,
having four recesses in which the votaries deposited
their offerings. The north transept was occupied by
St. Andrew's Chapel, and the south by the chanter's
chapel. Behind the stalls in St. Andrew's Chapel,
is a dark room, supposed to have been originally a
penitentiary : in the wall are small holes designed
probably to enable the culprits to hear the voices
of the officiating priests. Adjoining it on the east
is the old chapter-house, over which is the public
school-room. On the north and south sides of the
chancel were formerly side aisles, which are now
roofless, and in a ruinous condition. Beyond the
chancel, to the eastward, is the elegant chapel of
Bishop Vaughan, built in the time of Henry VIII.
and exhibiting an exquisite specimen of the florid
Gothic. Adjoining, and forming the extreme eastern
end of the cathedral buildings, is St. Mary's Chapel,
divested of its roof, and rapidly falling into ruins.
— The cathedral is enriched by numerous ancient
monuments, curious, as specimens of art, and inte-
resting by the celebrity of the persons they comme-
morate. In the body of the church, under the fifth
arch of the nave, from the westward, is a monument
to the memory of Bishop Morgan, which had for
a considerable period been concealed by the pews ;
some of the sculptured appendages are remarkably
beautiful, particularly a representation of the re-
surrection in basso relievo at the east end. Under
the rood loft, beneath a handsome groined canopy,
lie three effigies, two on the right, and one
on the left of the entrance into the choir. The
farthest on the right, distinguished by a mitre, was
designed for Bishop Gower. In the area of the
chancel, facing the entrance from the choir, is an
altar tomb to the memory of Edmund Tudor, Earl
of Richmond, eldest son of Owen Tudor, by Ca-
therine, Queen of Henry V. and father of Henry VII.
He was first buried in the monastery of Grey-friars
at Carmarthen, but on the dissolution of that house
his remains were removed hither. On the tomb when
first erected lay his effigies in brass : at the corners
were brazen escutcheons ; and round the rim was
a brass plate, inscribed : " Under this marble stone
here enclosed rest the bones of that noble lord,
Edmund Earl of Richmond, father and brother to
kings, who departed out of this world in the year
1450, the first day of November; on whose soul
almighty Jesu have mercy." These ornaments
were removed by the Parliamentarians, at the time
they pillaged the church of other decorations of a
similar kind.— On the right of this monument are
the
720
WALES.
the effigies of Bishops Jorwcrtli and Anselm. A
little higher up, on the same side, is the monu-
ment of Rhys ab Gruffydd, Prince of South Wales,
who died in 1196. His effigies in armour, with
the vizor raised, is recumbent, the head resting
on a lion ; there is also a lion at the feet, and a lion
rampant on the breast-plate. The sword is sus-
pended on the left side, from a remarkably rich
belt. Opposite to this monument, on the north
tide of the chancel, is another, greatly resembling
it, which is assigned to the son of Rhys ab Gruf-
fydd. Near the north-east angle of the chancel,
is the monument of Thomas Lloyd, treasurer of
St. David's in the reign of James I. In the
north and south aisles of the chancel are several
ancient monuments, sadly mutilated. On the
north side of the latter is a tomb, which has been
usually assigned to Giraldus ; and a monument to
Sylvester, the physician. — Bishop Vaughan was bu-
ried in the chapel which bears his name, and which,
e'ven in its present state, remains a splendid monu-
ment of his taste. — In St. Mary's Chapel, under a
rich Gothic canopy, is the tomb of its founder,
Bishop Martin ; and nearly opposite, a monument,
which has been usually assigned to Bishop Hough-
ton. Some fragments of monuments are also to be
seen in the chapels in the north and south transepts.
Of St. Mary's College, contiguous to the cathedral,
on the north side, the only portion now standing is
the chapel, sixty-nine feet in length, and about
twenty-four feet in width. The side walls are forty-
five feet in height. In each of these were three
quoined windows, twenty-four feet high, and nine
feet broad. At the east end was a window, of a
similar description, but of larger dimensions.
These were originally ornamented with painted glass.
At the west end is a square tower, seventy feet high.
The chapel is built over a vaulted apartment, of the
same dimensions, which was converted into a charnel
house. The original entrance to the college was on
the north side, by a handsome gateway, of which
no vestiges now remain. The houses belonging to
the establishment occupied the ground on the north
and west, on both sides of the little river Alan,
which washes the western end of the chapel. This j
collegiate insitution was founded in 1365, by John j
of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, Blanch his wife, and
Adam lloughton, at that time bishop of the diocese.
It was endowed by Bishop Houghtou alone, for a
master, and seven priests, or fellows. At the Dis-
solution, in the reign of Henry Vlll., its annual re-
venues were valued at 106/. 3s. ($d. It now belongs
to John Edwards, Esq. of Sealyham, as lessee of
the crown. — The bishop's palace, a magnificent pile
of building, south-west of the cathedral, on the op-
posite shore of the Alan, seerns to have formed,
originally, a complete quadrangle, inclosing an area,
or court, of 120 feet square ; but only two of the
sides remain. The principal entrance was by a grand
gateway on the north-east, now in ruins, near which
stood the porter's lodge. The bishop's apartments
occupied the south-enst side. The hall, sixty-seven
feet long by twenty-five in breadth, was entered
from the court, "by an elegant porch. At the north
| end was a large drawing-room, and beyond this a
chapel. At the south end of the hall stood the
kitchen, thirty-six feet in length, by twenty-eight
feet in width. In the middle stood alow pillar, from
which sprang four groins, which were gradually
I formed into chimnies. The south west side is oc-
I cupied by a noble apartment, called King John's
I Hall, ninety-six feet in length, and thirty-three feet
wide. The light was admitted by lofty windows on
1 each side, and by a circular window in the east end,
of singular and curious workmanship. The hall
was entered from the court by an elegant porch,
with an arched doorway, immediately opposite the
granil gateway. Above are two recesses, containing
mutilated statues of Edward III. and his queen.
At the north-west corner stands the chapel, which is
entered from the hall, and also from the court, _by a
staircase and porch. The parts of the building which
remain are in a very ruinous condition. — This mag-
nificent structure owed its erection to Bishop Gower,
who was elevated to the see in 1328. A great part
of its external beauty is derived from the open Go-
thic parapet which distinguishes this prelate's build-
ings. The cemetery, which is very spacious, lies on.
the south side of the cathedral. Near the west end
stands a building, fitted up for a chapter-house and
audit room, which obstructs one of the finest views
of the church. The houses of the resident clergy,
very respectable edifices, are within the precincts. —
The early history of the see of St. David's is in-
volved in great obscurity. Ecclesiastical writers
seem agreed that Dubricius, who died in 522, re-
signed the archbishopric of Caerleon to David, who re-
moved the see to My nyw, or Menevia, his native place.
After David, there were twenty -five archbishops of
this see, the last of whom was Samson, who was
raised to that dignity in 910. During his archiepis-
copacy, a contagious and pestilential disease broke
out in South Wales, which induced him to quit the
country, with a large body of his clergy, and to
settle at Dole, in Normandy. Having taken with him
the pall which he had worn at Menevia, the see, from
this time, lost its aruhiepiscopal dignity. In the in-
terval extending from St. David to Samson, this
church had under its authority seven suffragan bi-
shoprics, viz. Hereford, Worcester, Bangor, St.
Asaph, LlandaflP, Llaubadarn, and Margam. This
metropolitan jurisdiction, notwithstanding the loss
of its pall, continued to hold till the beginning of
the twelfth century, when Bishop Bernard, at the
command of King Henry I., resigned the rights of
his diocese to the see of Canterbury. — Nothing is
known of the form or extent of the original cathe-
dral church, which was dedicated to St. Andrew.
Peter de Leia, raised to the see in 1176, found it
necessary to pull it down, and construct a new edi-
fice. About thirty years afterwards, the tower fell
down ; and, subsequently, a large portion of the
church
WALES.
721
church was demolished by an earthquake. Thomas
Becke, raised to the see in 1280, contributed to the
improvement of the church buildings. Bishop Mar-
tin built the chapel of St. Mary's. To Bishop
Gower, who succeeded 31 art in in 1328, are we in-
debted for some of the chief decorations of the in-
terior of the cathedral, particularly the rood loft, one
of the most exquisite specimens of the architecture
of that period. — The cathedral acquired the highest
celebrity, and the shrine of the founder was resorted
to by the greatest monarchs of the age ; amongst
whom were, William the Conqueror, who made his
pilgrimage in 1079 ; Henry II., in 1711 ; and Ed-
ward I., and Eleanor, his queen, in 1284. The
pilgrims of inferior rank who resorted here were
innumerable, and their offerings served greatly to
enrich the ecclesiastics. After Bishop Vaughan's
death, no attempts appear to have been made to add
to the splendour of the diocese. Bishop Barlow, in
1536, commenced a system of dilapidation and im-
poverishment, whose effects are yet visible in the
reduced revenues of the see, and in the ruinous
condition of some of its finest edifices. This prelate
had a great desire to remove the see to Carmarthen ;
and that he might furnish himself with reasons to lay
before the king, in order to obtain his consent to
this measure, he alienated the church lands, and
stripped the lead from the castle of Lawhaden, and
the palace nt St. David's. By these proceedings, he
was able to urge the impossibility of residing on the
spot, as well as the impracticability of repairing
and upholding such extensive buildings. The next
act of spoliation was the unroofing of St. Mary's
Chapel, and the side aisles of the chancel, by the
fanatics in the 17th century. The west front of the
cathedral having become ruinous, it was, some years
ago, by order of Bishop Horsley, taken down, and
rebuilt under the direction of Nash, the architect.
Within these few years, several minor improvements
have been effected. — The jurisdiction of the bishops
of St. David's over Devvisland, involved more than
the minor regality of a lordship marcher. Within
the city they settled the price of labour, grain, and
* St. David is stated to have been the son of Sanddeab Cedig
ab Ceredig ab Cunedda, a prince of Ceredigion, or Cardigan,
by Non, (or Mehria,) the daughter of Gynyr, of Caer Gawch,
in Pembrokeshire. She was a nun, who became a mother by
the forcible violation of her chastity. The period of his birth
is assigned to the middle of the fifth century. After receiving
the first rudiments of his education at Old Menapia, where he
imbibed a taste for literature, and determined upon embracing
a religious life, he removed to the Isle of Wight, to avail himself
of the instructions of Paulinus, a disciple of St. Germanus.
Here he remained ten years, prosecuting his studies with great
ardour. He then returned to his native country, and having
fixed his residence in a secluded place, called Vattis Rosina,
the Vale of Roses, he laid there the foundation of a monastic
institution, which, in the course of time, raised the favoured
spot to the dignity of an archiep^copal .metropolis. David
brought together here a considerable body of scholars, some of
whom became afterwards greatly celebrated. The rules which
be laid down for the observance of his followers were exceecl-
YOL, IV. — NO. 192.
butcher's meat, the assize of bread and beer, and
the time and place of market, reserving a preference
to themselves and every member of the church, and
in their instruments call the inhabitants their sub-
jects, who are restrained from going out of the
jurisdiction to reap in harvest time, if they could
find employ in it at the just hire. The ranyor of
St. David's acted in subordination to the bishops,
whose statutes and mandates he had only to enforce.
The bishop's seneschal, or steward, was generally-
some man of note and fortune in the country. Within
his jurisdiction, the Bishop had several inferior
courts, but from the process of those, there was
appeal to the supreme court of Lawhaden. The
rights and privileges of their sanctuary were exten-
sive, and much respected. In war, the presence of
the bishop was almost necessary ; for, by his mili-
tary tenure, he was bound to attend, and his pro-
gress on such occasions was marked with the most
solemn state ; for, on the first day of his march, the
burgesses of St. David's were to escort him, with
the relics and shrine of St. David, so far as to admit
of their returning that night. He was bound to
garrison and protect the city and suburbs. In some
cases, he had power of life and death. The dio-
cese of St. David's now comprehends the coun-
ties of Pembroke, Carmarthen, Brecknock, and
Radnor ; with parts of the counties of Monmouth,
Hereford, Montgomery, and Glamorgan. It has
four archdeaconries : Brecknock, Carmarthen, Car-
digan, and St. David's. The see is computed to be
worth, annually, 1,400/. There belong to the ca-
thedral, a bishop, a precentor, with the power of a
dean, a chancellor, a treasurer, four archdeacons,
nineteen prebendaries, eight vicars choral, four cho-
risters, and other interior officers. The chapter
consists of the precentor, the treasurer, the chan-
cellor, and three canons, elected from the archdea-
conries and prebendaries. The lower chapter is a
corporate body, holding lands within its own juris-
diction, and granting leases under its own seal,
without being subject to the interference of the other
dignitaries. *
In
ingly strict. Every member was bound to labour daily with
his hands for the common benefit of the monastery. They
• were forbidden to receive all gifts or possessions offered by un-
just men, and to cherish a hatred of riches. " They never con-
versed together, by talking, but when necessity required, but
eiich performed (he labour enjoined him, joining thereto prayer
or holy meditations on divine things; and having finished their
country work they returned to their monastery, where they
spent the remainder of the day till the evening in reading or
writing. In the evening, at the sounding of a bell, they all left
their work, and immediately repaired to the church, where
they remained till the stars appeared, and then went all together
to their refection, eating sparingly and not to satiety. 'Their
food was bread with roots or herbs seasoned with salt, and their
thirst they quenched with a mixture of water and milk. Supper
being euded, they continued about three hours in watchings,
prayers, and genuflexions. As long as they were in the church,
it was not permitted to any to slumber, or sneeze, or cast forth
spittle. After this they went to rest, and at cock-crowing they
8 U rose.
722
WALES.
In the neighbourhood of St. David's are numerous
remains of small oratories, or chapels, the frequent
resort of pilgrims in ancient times. The principal
now to be seen, are St. Justinian's and St. Non's
chapels, on the sea coast. The former, stated to
have been the work of Bishop Vaughan, is a very
interesting ruin. The latter is remarkable only as
having been dedicated to the mother of St. David.
Druidical remains occur here at almost every step.
— The rocks called the bishop and his clerks form
interesting objects in the view on the sea coast from
St. David's head. Ramsey island is the largest in
this quarter, being about three miles in length, by
one mile in width.
DOGMAEL'S, ST.] — Two miles north from Nevem,
between Newport and Cardigan, are the ruins of the
Abbey of St. Dogmael, which was founded by
Martin de Tours, the conqueror, and first lord of
Cemaes of the Norman line. Its gross revenues,
yearly, at the Dissolution, were valued at about 96/.
The situation, overlooking the town of Cardigan,
and the Teivi, with its fine aestuary, is very beau-
tiful. The refectory, a large room with a vaulted
roof, has been converted into a barn. Part of the
northern transept remains. At a little distance, is
a modern mansion, built by Sir Watkin Lewis.
Proceeding up the channel of the Teivi, the ma-
jestic ruins of Cilgeran Castle present themselves.
The principal remains of this celebrated fortress
consist of two round towers, of large proportions,
and great strength : there are also fragments of se-
veral massive bastions, connected by curtain walls,
the direction of which is regulated by the form of
the rock on which the castle stands. It has been
generally supposed that Gilbert Strongbow, about
the year 1109, raised a fortress here for the defence
of his newly acquired possessions. It seems to have
been always considered a military post of great im-
portance. The adjoining village of Cilgeran appears
to have shared in the decay of its castle ; it is small,
and chiefly composed of the squalid huts of the
fishermen who gain their livelihood on the Teivi.
It had formerly corporate privileges, and it still has
its nominal portrieve, aldermen, and burgesses. —
rose, and continued at prayer till day appeared. All their inward
sensatioivs and thoughts they discovered to their superior, and
from him they demanded permission in all things, even when
liiey were urged to the necessities of nature. Their clothing
was skins of beasts." — The time of St. David's death, and the
age at which he died, are as undetermined as the period of his
birth. Giraldus and John of Tinmouth state that he died In
609, at the great age of one hundred and forty -seven He was
canonized by Oalixtus the second, who held the papal see from
A. D I liyfo 1124. — Giraldus thus sunisuphischaracter: "He
was to all a mirror and a pattern of life ; he taught both by precept
and example : was an excellent preacher in words, but more
excellent in works. lie was a doctrine to those who heard him,
a model to the religious, life to the needy, defence to orphans,
support 10 widows, a father to the fatherless, a rule to monks, a
directory lo men of the world ; being made all things to all men
that he might win all to God." Various attempts have been
made to account for the custom of wearing leeks on St. David's
A little way above Cilgeran stands Castle Maelgwn,
once the seat of the Hammet family, a neat modern
edifice, pleasantly situated on the banks of the river.
Sir Benjamin Hammet expended large sums on this
place, in improving the mansion, and altering the
grounds, which are laid out with great taste. —
Pentre, the ancient family residence of the Saun-
derses, is higher up, in a pleasant rural spot, im-
bosomed in trees, and within a mile of the river.
Its gardens and walks, in the old style, are greally
admired. A new mansion has been recently erected,
on the site of the old one, by Dr. Davies, who mar-
ried the only surviving heiress of this house. — Fy-
noneu, another seat in this parish, was erected by
its present possessor, John Colby, Esq. It is an
elegant building of Mr. Nash's, and commands
rural and romantic views. — On the other side of the
valley, nearly opposite Fynoneu, stands the deserted
and ruinous mansion of Blaenybylan, or Llanybylan,
now a farm-house. The celebrated Morris Morgan
was born in this house. He wrote a defence of the
character of Falstaff, a very ingenious essay, and
several political tracts, of great celebrity in their
time. He was under secretary to Lord Shelburne,
the present Marquis of Lansdowne's father, when
secretary of state.
FISHGARD.] — The town of Fisbgard, fourteea
miles from Cardigan, is romantically situated on a
small bay of St. George's Channel. It is divided
into two parts, which form, as it were, two distinct
towns, one on the brow of the hill, the other at a
considerable depth below, near the edge of the water,
on the asstuary of the little river Gwayn, which forms
its port and harbour. The houses are generally
mean and ill constructed ; and the streets are, in
some places, scarcely practicable for carriages of
any description. The road, from the upper to the
lower town, is an object of some interest, having
been cut in a winding direction, along the edge of a
precipitous hill, and affording a fine view of the bay
and harbour. The church is a small dirty building.
The population is considerable, an influx of inha-
bitants having been created by the advantages of the
port for the fishing trade, particularly in herrings.
day, — a custom, however, that is hardly known in the principal-
ity. Mr. Owen thinks it originated from the custom of Cym-
hortha,,OT the neighbourly aid practised among farmers, in
some districts of South Wales the neighbours of a small farmer,
without means, appoint a day when they all attend to plough his
land, or do him other service, and that at such times each indi-
vidual carries with him his portion of leeks to be used in making
the pottage for the company. Some have asserted that the cus-
tom took its rise in consequence of a victc-'y obtained by Cad-
wallo over the Saxons, on the 1st of M:irc)i, 640, when the
Welsh, to distinguish themselves, wore leeks in their hats. To
this Shakspeare seems to allude when he makes Fluellin say,
" the Welshman did good service in a garden where leeks did
grow." Some very learnedly attempt to shew that the leek wag
an Egyptian Deity, and lh.it consequently the Britons, a colonv
of Egyptians, were worshippers of Leeks. f Drayton, in his
Polyolbion, ascribes it to the " holy austerity" of St. David,
who "fed upon the leeks he gathered in t!:e ijelds."
It
WALES.
723
It might be made one of the best Imrbours on this
coast. The bay extends about three miles cast and
west, and nearly two miles north and south, with an
average depth of water of. from thirty to seventy
feet. The harSiour is capacious, and of easy access,
besides being well sheltered from every quarter.
The trade at present carried on here is of very li-
mited extent, and confined to articles of the first-
necessity. — The neighbourhood contains some cu-
rious remains of antiquity, indicative of an early
settlement, comprising- foundations of buildings, and
sepulchral tumuli.— 6u the banks of the Gvvayn, in a
secluded and romantic spot, a short distance from
the lower town, stands the neat mansion of Richard
Fenton, Esq., of the Middle Temple, Barrister at
Law, and author of " An Historical Tour through
Pembrokeshire." In this valley tradition fixes the
birth-place of Dyfrig, or St. Oubricius, the first,
bishop of Llandaff. — On Goodwick Beach, a few
miles southward from the tdwn, a French force
landed, under General Tate, on the 20th of Fe-
bruary, 1797. The troops, having been left by the
ships which had conveyed them thither, became dis-
orderly, and soon surrendered to the slight local
force which the exigency of the moment assembled.
The number of the invaders was small ; and the
conjecture was, that the men were criminals of the
lowest description, which the French government
had thus discharged from their prisons.
HAVERFORD WEST.] — Haverford West, which is
generally regarded as the metropolis of the county,
lies 10 miles from Pembroke, 7| from Milford, and
264 from London. It enjoys a population of more
than 3000 persons ; and its markets are, perhaps,
more abundantly supplied than any in Wales. Built
on the steep declivity of a hill, with the houses,
rising in a striking manner above each other, in
succession, to the summit, the appearance of the
town, when approached, by the Narberth Road, is
very picturesque and agreeable ; the castle, seated
on a commanding eminence above the river, com-
municating to the whole an air of much grandeur.
In general, however, the streets are narrow and
crooked ; some of them, not excepting the great
thoroughfare, are so exceedingly steep, as to excite
well founded apprehensions of danger in the pas-
senger ; and, in many respects, the interior of the
town is disagreeable and inconvenient. Of late
years, however, many considerable improvements
have been effected. Many good houses are occupied
by substantial tradesmen, merchants, professional
men, families of fortune, &c. The principal public
building is the Guild-hall, a modern erection, situ-
ated in the upper part of the town. — Haverford
West was, by the act of union in the reign of
Henry Vlll. constituted a county of itself, with
corporate privileges, and the right of returning a
member to represent it in Parliament. The charter
under which the corporation now exists was granted
in the year 1609, which provides for the appoint-
ment of a mayor, twenty-four common councilmen,
two sheriffs or bailiffs, two sergeants at mace, &c.
The mayor is invested with the offices of admiral,
coroner, eschpator, and clerk of the market within
the liberties of the borough. — Here is no manufac-
ture entitled to notice, and the commerce of the
place is inconsiderable. — The western Cleddau, on
which' the town is built, is navigable as high as the
bridge for ships of small burden, and convenient
quays have been constructed for the accommodation
of the trade. Other commercial facilities are afforded
by the situation of the town on the great western
road, having the London mail coach passing through
it every day in each direction. — Haverford West
comprises three parishes; St. Mary's, St. Thomas's,
and St. Martin's. St. Mary's Church, in the upper
part of the town, is a large venerable building con-
sisting of a nave, a chancel, and a side aisle on the
north. The nave and chancel are ceiled with oak
divided into small square compartments, those in the
former being highly ornamented with carved devices
of knots, foliage, &c. At the entrance into the
chancel are some ancient oak stalls, probably de-
signed originally for the incorporated companies of
the town. In the chancel are some respectable
monuments, of the Philippses, of Pic-ton, &c. St.
Thomas's Church, placed on the most elevated
ground within the town precincts, is not otherwise
remarkable. St. Martin's, in the vicinity of the
castle, is the oldest building. The interior com-
prises a long nave and chancel, and a side aisle on
the south. — Here was formerly, in the present
Bridge Street, a house of Black-friars ; and a little
below the town, in a meadow on the hanks of the
river, are the remains of a priory, founded and
endowed by Robert de Hwlffordd, the first lord of
Haverford West, for Black-canons of the order of
St. Augustine. At toe Dissolution, its annual re-
venues were valued, by Speed, at 135/. Os. \d. This-
house appears to have been of great extent, as may
be seen by the ruins and foundations of walls yet to
be seen. The church was a lar^e cruciform build-
ing, 160 feet in length from east to west, with tran-
septs measuring about 90 feet. The tower rose in
the middle, and was supported by four pointed
arches. The windows were lancet-form, and'seem
to have been very handsome. — The castle must, when
perfect, have been a large and magnificent struc-
ture. The keep, the only portion that now remains
entire, is a noble pile of building. It was converted
into a county gaol, a few years ago. From the
castle a strong embattled wall once surrounded the
town, in which were four gates communicating with
the principal thoroughfares. Three of these were
standing not many years since, but have now dis-
appeared. The foundation of the castle is ascribed
to Gilbert de Clare, first Earl of Pembroke, who
consigned the command of it to Richard Fit/ Tnn-
cred, to whom lie gave at the same time t'.ie seign-
iory of Haverford West. Robert, the so i of Rirhnrtl
Fitz Tancred, was the firet l»rd of Havcri<>rd7
West, and is sometimes ca'led^Robjrl d3 Hnlffordd,
from
'7-24
WALES.
from the Welsh name of (lie place. He is regarded
as the (bunder of the priory. — On the northern bank
of the river lies the suburb of Prendergast, where
there are the remains of an ancient mansion formerly
inhabited by a family of that name. — Below Haver-
ford West, about a mile and a half, stands Harold-
ston, another ancient seat, once occupied by a
family of the first distinction. The heiress of Sir
Richard Harold conveyed it by marriage to the
Perrott family, of which was Sir John Perrott, lord
deputy of Ireland. The house is now in a dilapi-
dated state. , Farther down the river, is Fern Hill,
the seat of H. Matthias, Esq. ; and, beyond it, on
the northern bank of the river, is Bullston, the
elegant modern mansion of Colonel Ackland. —
The grounds are beautifully situated on the banks
of the river, and are richly wooded. In a field
not far from the house are several barrows. — The
village of Langwm, lower down on the other side
of the river, is much celebrated for its oysters ; and
it may be visited on account of its church, which
contains some curious ancient monuments, a re-
markable niche for holding holy water, &c. Be-
tween Haverford West and Milford, are several
gentlemen's scats.
At Rudbaxtou, a little village, four miles from
Haverford West, on the road to Cardigan, is an
ancient British encampment, on the summit of a
steep conical hill. - This is sometimes called the
Rath, and sometimes St. Leonard's Castle. Far-
things Hook, farther on, is an ancient seat of the
Vaughans of Trecon. Beyond is Castell Henry, or
Castell Hendref, a large tumulus, probably at one
time crowned by a fortress. To the right are the
mansions of Moat, an ancient seat of the Scourfields,
and Temple Druid, so called from a large Cromlech
which once stood near the house. — Almost immedi-
ately after quitting Prendergast, on the road lead-
ing towards Fishgard, is Witty Bush, the seat of
John Phelps, Esq. On the right, stands Poyston,
the property of the late General Sir Thomas Picton.
Flether Hill, in this vicinity, formerly the residence
of the Hayward family, belongs to Sir Watkin
Lewis. — A little way farther on is Trefgarn, now a
farm-house. The village in the neighbourhood, of
the same name, which signifies literally the town of
the Rocks, is derived from those extraordinary
masses of stone, that are scattered over the adjacent
common, presenting at a distance the appearance of
large ruinated buildings. Beyond lies the village
of Ford, remarkable from its vicinity to some inte-
resting Roman remains. Proceeding from Ford,
on the right, are some ancient earthworks. On the
left, lies the little church of St. Edyrn ; the grass
in the churchyard of which is reputed to possess the
valuable property of curing the hydrophobia. Men,
as well as cattle, having been bitten, use it internally ;
and it is stated to have been administered with suc-
cess in cases wherein the existence of the disease
•was clearly ascertained. There is a small aperture
in the chancel wall where those who use the grass
deposit their voluntary contributions, which are the
perquisite of the parish clerk. — Further on, in the
vale through which the little river Cyllell, or the
knife, takes its course, stands Lanstinnn, an ancient
seat of the Symmonses, now falling into decay.
Higher up the vale stands Trecoon, an ancient seat
of the Vaughans, now the property of J. F. Bar-
ham, Esq. — Proceeding from Haverford West to-
wards St. David's, and thence towards Cardigan
and Cilgeran,'4we notice Roche Castle, or the Castle
of the Rock, so called from its singular situation,
on the rough and broken summit of one of those
stone mountains which frequently occur in this part
of the country. From its elevated site in the midst
of an open country, it forms a conspicuous object,
and commands an extensive and varied prospect
both of the interior and of St. Bride's Bay. It con-
sists only of a single tower of irregular form,
divided into three stories, each story containing one
large apartment, with others of a smaller dimension
on one side, where the front is semicircular. From
the large fire places, and ornamented stonework
still to be seen in the interior, it was evidently used
as a regular residence. It must also have been well
calculated for defence, from the thickness of its
walls, and its almost impregnable situation. It is
supposed to have been originally constructed as a
border fortress by some of the Norman or Fleming
settlers. Tradition, however, has assigned as the
cause of its erection, a warning prediction addressed
to the proprietor of the soil, intimating that his
death would be occasioned by the bite of a viper.
To guard against such an accident he built this
edifice, in which he shut himself up ; but it seems
he could not avert his predestined doom. The rep-
tile was introduced in a bundle of faggots, and in.
an evil hour inflicted the fatal wound. — The castle
was garrisoned for King Charles in the first civil
war, and sustained a vigorous siege under the com-
mand of Captain Francis Edwards, of Summerhill.
It is now the property of Rhys Stokes, Esq. who
resides at Kyffern, an elegant mansion in the neigh-
bourhood. — Not far from Roche Castle, the road
descends to Newgall Sands in St. Bride's Bay,
whence it ascends, after crossing the little river of
Newgall, towards the ancient mansion of Newgall,
or NewVill. A little beyond is Punch, or Poyntz
Castle, Castrum Pontii, an artificial mound of
earth, which once probably held an ars speculatoriu ;
and, still farther on, is the little town of Solva,
beautifully situated in a deep valley pervaded by
the river of the same name. The principal part of
the houses are of a modern erection, and have
a neat appearance. They lie chiefly on the
western side of the vale, forming one street in the
direction of the river, but scattered without plan
or order on the steep acclivity above. Solva is a
thriving little sea-port, and carries on a small com-
mercial intercourse jvith the adjacent parts of the
coast, chiefly with Milford. — On the left, farther
on, stands Llauvvnws, the seat of Joseph Harries,
Esq.
WALES.
725
Esq. Some Druidical remains are in the neighbour-
hood.
MILFORD.] — Milford, or Milford Haven, is 6
miles from Pembroke, and 257 from London. The
town is of recent origin : its site formed partofthq
possessions of the late Sir William Hamilton, who
bequeathed the estate to his nephew, the Right
Hon. Charles Greville ; to whose taste, judgment,
and patriotic spirit, Milford is indebted for its
creation. The act of parliament upon which the
town was built, was passed in the year 1790. After
having determined the situation, which is most eligi-
bly chosen in one of the finest parts of the haven,
Mr. Greville proceeded to form the ground plan of
the streets. The principal of these were marked
out in parallel lines, running nearly due east and
west, and in the direction of the shore, having short
streets of communication intersecting them at right
angles. The lower street is formed of one row of
houses fronting the water. The houses are remark-
ably good, many of them calculated for the residence
of opulent families. At the western extremity stands
the hotel, a large and commodious pile of building,
comprising one of the best establishments of the kind
in the principality. This street contains another very
respectable inn. Two of the streets, running paral-
lel with this, rise above it on the side of the hill,
each of them containing a great number of houses.
The church occupies a very commanding situation
near the haven, at the eastern extremity of the lower
street. It consists of a nave, chancel, and two side
aisles. The windows are ornamented with painted
glass, bearing the arms of Hamilton, Barlow, and
Greville. At the west end is a lofty tower, which
forms a conspicuous object from the water in sailing
up the haven. This edifice was consecrated on the
14th of October, 1808. The custom house, at the
lower end of the town, in a convenient situation by
the water side, is a plain edifice, well adapted to its
purpose. This establishment is independent of that
at Pembroke, which used to include this part of the
haven. The dock-yards, which form an important
feature of this place, are situated on the shore, im-
mediately iii front of the town. — The town has a
market on Tuesday, and another on Saturday. Its
trade is by no means considerable. Attempts have
been made by some enterprising individuals to esta-
blish a southern whale fishery, but not with much
success. There are several packets stationed here,
for conveying mails and passengers to Waterford.
The London mail coach arrives here every evening,
and returns .early the following morning. — Milford is
bounded on the west by a creek, or inlet, called
Priory Pill, on the opposite shore of which stands
the village of Haking, sometimes called Old Mil-
ford. Between Haking and Hubberston has been
erected a handsome observatory, under the super-
intendance of the Astronomer Royal of Greenwich. —
At the upper end of Hubberston creek are some re-
mains ot an ancient religious house called Pill Priory.
The foundation of this establishment is ascribed to
VOL. iv. — NO. 193.
Adam de Rupe, or de la Roche, a man of extensive
possessions in this country towards the end of the
twelfth century. At the Dissolution its revenues
were granted to Sir Thomas Jones, of Haroldston.
It now forms a part of the possessions of Mr. Greville.
To the westward, in the direction of the Haven, is
Butter Hill, the neat residence of Mr. Roch. Farther
on is Orlainlun, the seat of J. P. Laugharne, Esq.
To the northward lies Walwyn's Caslle, called in
Welsh, Castell Gwalchmai ; where tradition asserts
that the body of Gwalchmai, a chieftain of gigantic
stature, was discovered in the time of William the
Conqueror. At Orlandon a road turns to the south-
ward which leads to the little village of Dale, plea-
santly situated on a small bay near the mouth of
Milford Haven. Here is an ancient castellated
mansion, the property of John Lloyd, Esq. of
Mabus, in Cardiganshire. Near this place the Earl
of Richmond, afterwards Henry VII. landed, pre-
viously to his march towards Bosworth-field ; and
here he was met by his zealous and powerful par-
tizan, Sir Rhys ab Thomas. Nearly due north from
Dale, on the shore of St. Bride's Bay, stand the
remains of the ancient mansion of St. Bride's. At
a short distance, is Hill, the elegant seat of Charles
Philips, Esq. A little way off' the promontory here
formed by Milford Haven on one side, and St. Bride's
Bay on the other, are two considerable islands,
Stockam and Skomar ; and beyond them, at some
distance, another of smaller extent, called Gresholm.
The surface of Skomar, which lies nearest the main
land, has been converted into a farm. It is the
property of C. Philips, Esq. It is stocked wilh
rabbits, 2000 couples of which are said to be killed
here every year. Stockham, the property of J.
Lloyd, Esq. of Dale, about five miles from the
main land, has also been converted into a farm, and
is well stocked with rabbits. An attempt was made
to stock it with red deer ; but, although they fat-
tened well, they degenerated in size.
NARBERTH.] — The little town of Narberth is
pleasantly situated on a gentle eminence, in a narrow
vale, 12 miles from Pembroke, and 254 from Lon-
don : standing on the great western road, the mail
coaches pass through it every day, in both directions.
Narberth once had a castle of considerable extent
and strength, of which some picturesque ruins yet
remain : its construction, probably on the site of
an older fortress, is ascribed to Sir Andrew Perrott,
by whom it was garrisoned with a body of the Fle-
mings, which had then recently settled in the country.
It now forms a part of the Slebech estates. Pro-
ceeding from Narberth, towards Haverfbrd West,
after crossing the eastern Cleddau, over Carroston
Bridge, a road turns to the right, which leads to
Ridge way, a handsome modern mansion, formerly
the residence of J. H. Foley, Esq. At a little dis-
tance is Lawhaden Castle, once a principal residence
of the bishops of St. David's, whence they derive
their baronial title to a seat in the house of lords..
The situation is very commanding, and, apparently,
8x the
726
WALES.
the building must, in former times, hare been exten-
sive and magnificent. The chief remains consist of
the grand entrance gateway, which was protected
by two large circular bastions, and a lofty octagon
tower. The founder of this castle is unknown, but
its grandeur is thought to have been greatly in-
creased by Bishop Becke, who also founded an hos-
pital here in 1287, the ruins of which may yet be
seen. The castle has, for many years, been suffered
to fall to decay. In the village of Lawhaden, is the
handsome residence of William Skryme, Esq. ; and
above it, on the banks of the river, is the mansion
of John Meares, Esq. — Colby, to the westward,
now the property of the Right Hon. Charles Gre-
ville, was formerly the seat of one of the Barlows
of Hebech. The mansion having been demolished,
the site is now occupied by a farm-house. Proceed-
ing from Narberth, and following the eastern CJed-
dau from Canaster Bridge, where it is crossed by
the great western road, Slebech Hall, the elegant
mansion of N. Philipps, Esq. pleasantly situated on
its western shore, presents itself: the present house,
of modern date, was built by the late J. Symmons,
Esq. of Llanstinan, who sold it to W. I\ nox, Esq.,
from whom it was purchased by the present pro-
prietor. The site is of ancient celebrity, having
been occupied as the seat of a Comraandery of the
knights of St. John of Jerusalem. This establish-
ment appears to have high reputation at an early
period. At the Dissolution, its possessions were
sold to Roger and Thomas Barlow for 205/. 6s. —
The last representative of the Barlow family con-
veyed the property by marriage to John Symmons,
Esq. The church, which is still standing, is a very
respectable building, and contains some ancient
monuments. — Below Slebech on the western side of
the Cleddau, near the junction of the two streams
of that name, stands Picton Castle, the residence
of Lord Miltbrd. The greater part of this noble
edifice retains its original form and character. . The
ground plan occupies an oblong area, of nearly
uniform breadth, but having three large projecting
bastions on each side, which, while they contributed
essentially to the military strength of the building,
furnished an important addition to its interior con-
venience and splendour. At the east, between two
bastions similar to the others, but of smaller dimen-
sions, was placed the grand entrance gate, with its
portcullis. This has now lost its military character,
having been transformed into an elegant modern
doorway. The moat which surrounded the castle
has in this part been filled up, and the drawbridge
has given way to a raised terrace, guarded on each
side by a handsome open parapet. — The foundation
of this house is ascribed to William de Picton, one
of the followers of Arnulph de Montgomery. Ii has
from the first been occupied by families of the first
rank and consequence in the county, among whom
was a branch of the Wogans of Wiston. In the
time of the civil wars, it was garrisoned for the
king by Sir Richard Philipps, and made a gallant
defence against the parliamentary forces, to which,
however, it at last surrendered. — The grounds are
on a magnificent scale ; they are very richly wooded ;
and they have every advantage of water scenery
from their position near the confluence of two hand-
some streams, which spread before them into the
noble haven of Milford. — In the grounds are some
remains of an ancient fortification, or encampment,
called Castle Lake. — A little below the castle, on
the opposite shore, stands Landshipping, where
there are quays for shipping the coals raised in the
neighbourhood. Farther down the stream, on the
western shore of Milford Haven, stands Benton
Castle, probably erected by some of the Norman or
Flemish settlers. — The next object of attention is
Lawreny Hall, the seat of Hugh Barlow, Esq.
pleasantly situated on a point of land, having Mil-
ford Haven on the west, and on the south a wide
creek branching from it in a north easterly direction,
towards Creswell. On the opposite point of land,
at the entrance of this creek, stood the ancient cas-
tellated mansion of Upton, once the residence of the
Malefants family. The present house is the pro-
perty of the Rev. Mr. Evans. — At Upton the creek
divides into two branches. Ascending the northern
branch, a short distance on the right, is Cresselly,
the seat of J. Allen, Esq. At the head of the
southern branch stand the magnificent ruins of Carew
Castle, occupying a point of land, of inconsiderable
elevation, surrounded on three sides by water. It
has been conjectured, that this spot anciently con-
tained some British fortifications, which acquired
for it the descriptive name of Caerau, afterwards
converted into Carew. Parts of the building may
be ascribed to the 16th century ; but other portions
may safely be referred to the time of the first occu-
pation of this district by the Norman settlers. — The
estate is said to have formed originally one of the
royal demesnes belonging to the princes of South
Wales, and to have been given to Gerald de Windsor
on his marriage with Nest, the daughter of Rhysab
Tewdwr, as a part of his wife's dower. — In the vil-
lage of Carew, close to the road, stands an ancient
cross, richly ornamented with carved work, and
bearing an inscription, partly obliterated, in an un-
known character. — The church, a spacious building,
with a large square tower at one end, contains
several antique monuments to the memory of the
possessors of the castle. The rectorial-house, a
large ancient building, near the church on the other
side of the road, is approached by a handsome
arched gateway.
NEWPORT.] — This town, situated near the entrance
of the river Nevern, 244 miles from London, is
called in Welsh Trefdraeth, from a sand beach
which stretches from the port. It is now a poor and
inconsiderable place ; but it presents many vestiges
of former prosperity and importance. The castle,
an interesting ruin, rising in baronial majesty above
the town, had a grand gateway between two bas-
tions on the north side. It was surrounded by a deep
moat.
WALES.
727
moat. This was the seat of the lord of Cemaes,
who here held his courts, The town, at that time,
was governed by a mayor, aldermen, recorder,
bailiffs, &c. Having been nearly depopulated, in
the 16th century, by a pestilential disorder, its
market was some time discontinued. In this neigh-
bourhood are many Druidical remains ; particularly
a Cromlech near Pentre Evan, one of the largest
monuments of this class in the kingdom. Another
fine Cromlech stands between Newport and the sea,
called Llech y dryden. — Ilenllys, in this vicinity,
was formerly after Newport Castle, the manor-house
of the lords of Cemaes. — Beyond Newport, on the
northern shore of the Nevern, is Llwyn-gwair, the
seat of Mr. Bowen. — Farther on, is the village of
Nevern, pleasantly situated on a branch of the river
of that name. This was anciently a borough town,
but lost its consequence on the creation of Newport.
The church, a venerable pile of building1, is one of
the largest in the county. In the churchyard is a
curious British cross, decorated with knots and fret-
work.— On the hill above the church are some re-
mains of Llanhyfer Castle. — Near this place is Tre-
luffan, or Toad-town. " A. young man, native of
this country," says Giraldus, " during a severe ill-
ness suffered as violent a persecution from toads, as
if the reptiles of the whole province had come to
him by agreement : and though destroyed by his
nurses and friends, they increased again on all sides
in infinite numbers, like hydras' heads ; his attend-
ants being wearied out, he was drawn up, in a kind
of bag, into a high tree stripped of its leaves and
shred ; nor was he there secure from his venomous
enemies, for they crept up the tree in great numbers,
and consumed him even to the very bones." — On a
chimney-piece here, is the figure of a toad sculp-
tured in marble, said to have been brought from
Italy, and designed perhaps to commemorate this
traditionary tale.
PEMBROKE.] — The county and borough town of
Pembroke is seated in a rich and eligible spot, on
the banks of a navigable creek of Milford Haven,
called Down Pool, 10 miles from Haverford West,
and 250 from London. It consists chiefly of one
long street, running nearly due east and west, with
a short cross street leading to the north gate. The
town was anciently surrounded by a lofty wall, in
which were three gates ; one at each end of the main
street, and one on the north, which alone remains.
It also had a postern on the south. A considerable
portion of the north wall yet stands, in good pre-
servation, of great strength, and flanked with seve-
ral bastions of solid masonry. The town contained,
in 1811, a population of 2415 persons. The cor-
poration consists of a mayor, council, two bailiffs,
and sergeants at mace, and about 1500 burgesses. —
Here is neither manufacture nor trade of any con-
sequence; and, altogether, Pembroke is, perhaps,
the dullest town in South Wales. Here are two
churches : St. Michael's, near the eastern extremity
of the town ; and St. Mary's, in the vicinity of the
northern gate ; both of them ancient structures, but
distinguished by neither peculiarity nor excellence
of architecture, nor by any monuments entitled to
notice. In the suburb of Monkton, to the westward
of Pembroke, stands the church of St. Nicholas, the
oldest religious edifice, probably, belonging to the
place. Arnulph de Montgomery, in 1078, gave this
church, with land, to the abbey of St. Martin at
Sayes in Normandy, with a view to the erection of
a Benedictine Priory here, which was shortly after
established as a cell of that house. William and
Walter Marshal, Earls of Pembroke, made some
additions to its endowments. At the Dissolution it
was valued, according to Speed, at 113/. 2s. 6rf. and
granted to John Vaughan and Catherine his wife. —
The castle, even in its present dilapidated state, is a
magnificent pile of building, occupying an elevated
rocky point of laud at the west end of the town,
where its walls and towers rise majestically from the
shores of the two branches into which the creek is
divided by this promontory. The view from the
water is indescribably grand. The outer ward was
entered from the town by a grand gateway yet
standing, constructed of prodigious strength, and
defended by two round towers, one on each side.
This building contained some elegant apartments ;
in one of which, if Leland'.s authority may be cre-
dited, was born King Henry VII. In the inner ward
stands the keep, a circular tower of great height,
elegant proportions, and extraordinary strength.
The height is about seventy-five feet, the interior
diameter about twenty -four, and the walls from four-
teen to seventeen in thickness. It seeins to havn
been originally divided into four or five stories, each
story gradually diminishing in size, the diameter of
the building having been regularly lessened in order
to bring the summit into a cone or arched roof of
stone. The apartments in the middle stories appear
to have been finished in a style of groat elegance.
There is on the north of this tower a long range of
apartments, which seem of more recent erection.
A staircase leading from this part of the c;istle
communicates with the " marvelus vault caulid the
Hogan ;" a large cavern in the rock, opening upon
the water and extending a great way under the
buildings. Its length is computed at seventy- seven
feet, and its width at fifty-seven. The roof, par-
ticularly towards the centre, is very lofty. The
entrance has been partially walled up, and formed
into a spacious doorway. The name of this cavern
is supposed to be a corruption of Ogof, or Ogov,
the British term for a cave. It is said to have once
contained a spring which supplied the garrison with
water. — The early history of this castle is somewhat
obscure ; but, according to Giraldus, " Arnulph de
Montgomery, in the reign of King Henry I. erected
here a slender fortress with stakes and turf, which,
on returning to England, he consigned to the care
of Giraldus de Windesor his constable anil lieu-
tenant general." The castle was a place of great
strength as late as the civil wars in the 17th cen-
tury ;
7-28
WALES.
lury ; and it held out for a considerable time against
tlic forces of the Parliament. * — Proceeding nearly
due west through the suburb of Monkton, a short
ride will bring the traveller to Orielton, the seat
of Sir John Lord Owen, Bart. The name is sup-
posed to have been derived from the founder of the
house, probably one of the Norman freebooters in
the train of Arnulph de Montgomery.' — Near Oriel- j
ton is a common called Dry Burrows, containing a
great number of tumuli or barrows, having probably
been the seat of some sanguinary conflict. — Beyond
Orielton, in a bay of Milford Haven, is the little
village of Nangle, which appears to have once con-
tained some respectable dwellings, and is thought to
have had a monastic establishment. On Nangle Point, I
at the entrance of Milford Haven, stand (he frag- j
mrnts of a building of singular construction, called
the Blockhouse; the origin of which is unknown.
There is a similar erection on the opposite point,
near Dale. — Proceeding from Pembroke, in nearly
a southerly direction, at the distance of a few miles,
is Stackpool Court, the splendid mansion of Lord
Cawdor, which stands on the precipitous margin of
a narrow valley, that has been converted into an
artificial lake. Along the whole of the front next
the water a wide terrace has been formed : the other
side, which contains the entrance, looks into some
elegant pleasure grounds. The general aspect of
the building is grand and imposing ; and the interior
is arranged in a truly splendid style. The present
house was built by Sir Alexander Campbell, of Caw-
dor Castle in North Britain, who became possessed
of the property by marrying the heiress, of the name
of Lort. It occupies the site of an ancient house, of
the castellated kind ; the first proprietor of which,
whose name is known, was Sir Elitlur, or Leonard,
de Stackpool, who was contemporary with Girahlus,
and of whom there is a monumental effigies in the
little church of Cheriton in this neighbourhood.
— Beyond Stackpool Court, in a westerly direction,
is a large modern house, the residence of Mr.
Mirchouse. — The coast from Stackpool head west-
wards towards Nangle point is highly romantic, pre-
senting some rocky scenery of great sublimity, in-
terspersed with natural caverns of vast extent, and
in some instances of singular interest and curiosity.
One of the most remarkable of these is called Bosher-
ton Meer ; presenting on the surface of the ground
only a small aperture, which gradually widens below
until it spreads into an extensive vault. In stormy
weather, when the sea beats with violence against
* Major General I-augharne, on his first defection from the
Parliament, had, in conjunction with Colonels Powell and
1'ojer, seized on this fortress, and made it his head quarters,
lliilier, alter his overthrow at the battle of St. l-'agan's, he re-
tired with his friends, but was quickly followed by Cromwell,
who commenced his operations lor the reduction of the place.
The garrison, though reduced lo great extremitie.s (or want of
food, defended themselves with great firmness, till Cromwell
found means to destroy their mills, and to cut off their supply
of «a!er. All farlher resistance appearing fruitless, they sur-
the rocks, the noise emitted from this aperture is
tremendous ; and occasionally immense columns of
spray are forced through it to an immense height.
The ebbing of so strong a current of air is in some
instances very dangerous, drawing in with it into
the gulf whatever animal may chance to stand near
the margin. A little to the eastward of Bosherton
Meer, a rude flight of steps, cut out of the rock,
leads to the chapel or hermitage of St. Govan, most
romantically situated among the precipices on the
sea-coast. To this spot all travellers into Pem-
brokeshire should make a pilgrimage. " The chapel
is placed across the passage, and is a rude and
ancient structure about twenty feet in length by
twelve feet in width, having at the east end an altar
comporting with the character of the edifice, formed
of a coarse stone slab supported by a stone wall.
On one side an arched doorway opens to a cell
hollowed out of the limestone rock, and shaped in
the form of a human body, as if originally designed
for the reception of the saint. Under the chapel is
a well of great celebrity, which shares witli the
chapel the superstitious veneration of the people, of
the neighbourhood." — The promontory of Castle
Martin contains a few scattered Druidical monu-
ments, among which are the fragments of a Cromlech.
On the sea-shore are many earthen military works,
supposed to have been raised by the Danish pirates.
— On the road leading from Pembroke towards
llaverford West, is Bush, the residence of John
Meyrick, Esq.
TENBY.] — The sea-port and market-town ofTenby,
00 miles from Swansea, and 250 from London, is
beautifully situated on a rocky promontory of con-
siderable elevation, stretching over the sands in a'
southerly direction, and, at high water, enclosed
by the sea on every side, except the north, where
a narrow isthmus communicates with the country.
This promontory curves gently towards the east,
forming a small bay on that side which has been
converted into a commodious well-sheltered har-
bour, skirled on the land side by a bold amphi-
theatre of rocks and houses. The population of
Tenby, according to the last returns, was 1176; but
it is evident, from the number of ruinated build-
ings and foundations to be seen in the outskirts,
that it must at one period have been far more popu-
lous, and have spread over a larger space than it
now occupies. It was once surrounded by a strong
and lofty wall, which in some places is yet nearly
entire. The principal improvements of the wall are
rendered at discretion. Laugharne, Powell, and Foyer, were
afterwards tried for high treason and found guilty. When sen-
tence of death had been passed upon them, Cromwell consented
that only one of them should be. executed, and sent orders that
they should themselves determine by lot, which of them should
die. One fatal paper was left blank : on the other two was
written, " Life given by God." They were drawn by a child,,
conformably to an agreement between the prisoners, and the
lot fell on Poyer, who was shot in Covent Garden, on the 2Mb.
of April, 1649.
ascribed
WALES.
729
ascribed to Queen Elizabeth, in whose time Tenhy
was a flourishing place. The streets, which are in
general good, though, on account of the nature of
the ground, in some instances inconveniently narrow
and steep, contain a large proportion of respectable
houses, tenanted by substantial tradesmen, mer-
chants, &c. Some of them arc in the bathing season
converted into lodging houses and hotels. Leland
I'.-.-ntions an inconvenience which was long felt here,
the want of water. No effectual remedy was ap-
plied to this serious evil till a few years ago ; when
Sir William Puxton, having acquired an interest in
the place, had the adjacent country examined to
ascertain the practicability of forming adequate re-
servoirs, and conveying the water in pipes from the
springs in the neighbourhood into the town. Th^e
town lias consequently been furnished at a trifling
charge with an exhaustless supply. Tenby is one
of the contributory boroughs with Pembroke. It
is governed by a mayor, aldermen, common council-
men, &c. The towu is divided into the in liberties,
and the-ouf liberties : the former are subject to the
jurisdiction of the magistrates of the borough ; the
latter to the jurisdiction of the magistrates of the
county. — This place seems to have derived its earliest
importance from its fisheries, whence its name of
Dynbych y Pyscod. After this district became in-
habited by the Flemish settlers, its advantages for
commercial intercourse were seen and appreciated :
the harbour received such improvements as it seemed
to require for the security and convenience of the
shipping ; and the population of the town and neigh-
bourhood was engaged in a woollen manufactory on
nn extensive scale. The first charter on record, is
that granted by William Marshal, the first Earl of
Pembroke of that name. Subsequently (o the act
of union, new charters were granted by Edward VI.
Elizabeth, and Charles I. whose cause was warmly
espoused by the inhabitants. From circumstances
which it is now impossible to develope, the commer-
cial importance of Tenby has sunk greatly below its
former rank. Its manufactories have disappeared,
and its chief trade at present is created by the coal
raised in the neighbourhood. The consequence,
however, which it has lost in this respect, is com-
pensated by its rapidly advancing reputation as a
bathing place. It possesses romantic beauties of
situation, delightful rides, an excellent beach, pure
and transparent sea water, and many conveniences
for valetudinarian visitors. Splendid baths have
been erected by Sir William Paxton, from the de-
signs of Mr. Cockerell. These buildings are eligibly
situated under the Castle Hill on the outside of
the harbour, commanding on one side a full view
of the shipping, and on the other an extensive sweep
of the sea. A coach runs, during the bathing season,
three times a week, to meet the mail at Cold Blow
near Narberth.— Here is only one church, which is
situated in the middle of the town. It is of con-
siderable size, extending 140 feet in length. At
VOL. iv. — HO. 193.
the west end is a large square tower surmounted by
a lofty spire, rising together about 150 feet. The
interior is enriched by several ancient monuments,
some of them of exquisite workmanship. — The
ancient religious establishments of Tenby comprised
an hospital or free chapel of St. John the Baptist ;
a convent of Carnuelite-frinrs, founded by John de
Swynemore in the year 1399, and called St. Mary's
College ; and an hospital or Lnzar House, dedicated
to St. Mary Magdalen. — The remains of the castle
are considerable, though in a dilapidated state. Its
situHtion was admirably formed for defence : it oc-
cupied the extreme point of the promontory, ami
was secured by inaccessible rocks on every side
except that facing the town, which was strengthened
by art. It is supposed to have been founded by the
Anglo-Norman settlers ; and, in their wars with the
Welsh princes, it became a frequent object of attack.
Towards the sea are some insulated rocks of wild
and romantic appearance, which exhibit carious ex-
cavations. Some of them are accessible on foot at
low water ; particularly the island of St. Catherine,
off the Castle Point, which in one direction has been
perforated quite through by the repeated action of
the tides. The principal of these islands is Caldey,
about two miles from the main land. About a mile
in length, and half a mile wide, it is estimated to
comprise rather more than 600 acres of surface, of
which about one-third is under cultivation. There
was a priory at Caldey, founded as a cell to the
abbey of St. Dogmael's. The tower of the priory
church, surmounted by a stone spire, is yet stand-
ing, and many of the conventual buildings have
been converted into offices, and attached to a hand-
some modern edifice. — Near the coast, to the east-
ward of Tenby, are Cilgetty ; Hen Castle, or the
Old Castle, the seat of T. Stokes, Esq. ; Merrix-
ton, the seat of C. Swan, Esq. ; Bonville Court ;
Amroth Castle, the residence of Captain Ackland ;
and, on the road from Narberth, Begelty Hall, the
seat of J. Child, Esq. — Proceeding towards Pem-
broke, the road lies along the ridge of a hill, having
a fertile valley on the right, studded with villages,
churches, and ruined castles ; in front detached
pieces of Milford Haven glittering among the woods
which line its shores ; and on the left a wide expanse
of sea, broken in one instance by the island of Lundy.
Several old mansions occur. Treflyne was the head
quarters of the Earl of Carberry, during the civil wars.
On the right, near the village of St. Florence, is Ivy
Tower, formerly the residence of W. Williams, Esq.
A little way farther on the left a narrow lane conducts
totheancientcastleof Manorbeer, the seat of the Barri
family, and the birth-place of Giraldus de Barri, to
whom we are indebted for the earliest topographical
account of this country. Giraldus describes it as
the most delightful spot in all Wales ; and, though
the greater part of its artificial decorations have dis-
appeared, it still possesses many natural beauties.
The remains of the castle are extensive, and in tole-
y, v rnble
730
WALES.
rable preservation. In its origiilal state, it must
have been a large and noble edifice ; rather a splendid
castellated mansion, than a fortress constructed for
defence. On a hill, at a short distance from the
castle, stands the church, which contains a sepul-
chral monument of one of the Barri family in good
preservation. — It has not been ascertained by whom
the castle was built ; but it probably owed its erec-
tion to a Norman lord, of the name of Barri. It
now belongs to Lord Milforcl.* — Having resumed
the road towards Pembroke, at a short distance on
the right, appear the picturesque ruins of Lanfey
Court, or Llanffydd, formerly one of the princely
residences of the bishops of St. David's. The por-
tions of the building yet remaining are considerable,
and convey a tolerably just idea of the splendour in
which its ecclesiastical proprietors lived, while the
ample revenues of the see were entire. It is not
knawn by whom the original structure was raised ;
but it evidently received material improvements from
successive proprietors. Some of the principal addi-
tions appear to have been made by Bishop Gower.
In the reign of Henry VIII. the manor was alienated
* Sylvester Giraldus de Barri, surnamed Cambrensis, born
at Manorbeer, about the year 1 146, was the fourth son of Wil-
liam de Barri. His mother was the grand-daughter of Prince
Rhys ab Tewdwr. At an early period of life he was observed
to evince a partiality for literary pursuits. His uncle, David
Fitzgerald, Bishop of St. David's, removed him to his house,
and undertook the care of his education. After he had made
some progress, he went to Paris, where, during his residence,
which lasted three years, he engaged himself in delivering lec-
tures on rhetoric and the Belles Leltres. He returned to Eng-
land about the year 1 172, when he took orders, and obtained
some preferments in the church. — Having entered on his new
profession, he set to work to reform abuses in the affairs of the
church in the diocese of St. David's. Having laid a statement
of the existing evils before the Archbishop of Canterbury, that
prelate appointed him his K-gate in Wales.- Amongst other
things, Giraldus applied himself to the delicate task of reforming
the morals of the clergy. Several priests had violated the rules
of their order by marrying: these he peremptorily ordered to
dismiss their wives, whom he stigmatized as their concubines.
The Archdeacon of Brecknock, far advanced in years, was
living publicly with his mistress. Giraldus endeavoured by mild
remonstrances to prevail upon him to put her away ; but failing
by this method to gain his object, he deprived him of his eccle-
siastical dignities and benefices. The Bishop of St. David's
afterwards, at the recommendation of the archbishop, conferred
the archdeaconry, and the other preferments, on Giraldus him-
self, inrewardof his zeal. After the decease of his uncle, David
Fitzgerald, tl>e chapter of St. David's elected Giraldus to be
his successor in that see ; but King Henry refused to ratify their
choice, not deeming it prudent to raise to that dignity a man of
such talents and influence, who was so nearly related to the
native princes of the country. After this repulse, Giraldus went
a second time to Paris, to resume the study of the Belles Lettres.
After a protracted residence there, he returned to the princi-
pality, where he found the affairs of the church in the utmost
disorder. Afterwards, he was invited to the .court by King
Henry, who appointed him one of his chaplains; and, in the
year 1185, he committed to his care the education of his son
John. With this young prince he went to Ireland in the capa-
'city of secretary, and discharged the duties of that office so
much to his sati>faction that he offered him successively the
bUhoprics of Femes and Leighelin, and ou bis refusal of each
to the king, who granted it to Richard Derereux
Viscount Hereford, afterwards Earl of Essex. After
the attainder of the earl, in the reign of Elizabeth,
the property was purchased by Sir Hugh Owen of
Orielton, to which estate it now belongs.
WISTON.] — Wiston, or Witztown, near Colby, is
one of the contributory boroughs united with Tenby
and Pembroke. Though now an inconsiderable
village, it is governed by a mayor, who embodies all
the corporate dignities in himself. Its castle was
long the princely residence of a family of the name
of Wogan, lineally descended from Gwgan the son
of Bleddyn ab Maenarch, regulus or lord of Breck-
nock. The Welsh name is Castell Gwys, probably
corrupted from Wiz. Frequent mention is made of
this fortress in the Welsh annals, and it is supposed
to have been once of great extent and strength. The
remains are inconsiderable. The modern mansion
was built contiguous to the ancient edifice. On the
failure of the family of Wogan, the estate, including
the borough, was purchased by Lord Cawdor. — In
the neighbourhood are Penty Park, and Haythrog,
belonging to brandies of the Philippses of Picton.
of them separately, proposed to consolidate them into one, if
that would induce him to accept them. Giraldus, however,
declined this proposal ; and, afterwards, he also refused the
archbishopric of Cashel. — During his stay in Ireland, he em-
ployed himself with great diligence in collecting materials for
his two works, the " Topography," and the " History of
Ireland." The former, he recited in public before the Uni-
versity of Oxford, for three successive days. — Baldwin, Arch-
bishop of Canterbury, having been appointed, during the
Crusades, to preach the holy cause among the Welsh, he was
accompanied by Giraldus, whose eloquence, according to his
own report, produced wonderful effects in gaining recruits.
Two years afterwards, Giraldus accompanied King Henry in
his e.\pedition to France ; and, on the death of that monarch,
he was despatched to England by Earl Richard, afterwards
King .Richard I. with letters to his justiciary. On the departure
of King Richard for Palestine, Giraldus was joined with Wil-
liam de Longclramp, Bishop of Ely, in the regency of the
kingdom. During the time he held this office, he refused the
bishoprics of Bangor and Llandaff, alleging, that he was un-
willing to accept any dignity that would necessarily draw his
attention from his studies. His real motive, however, as he
confesses himself, was the hope of succeeding to the bishopric
of St. David's. — Disgusted at repeated disappointments at court,
he sought retirement, and devoted himself to literary pursuits.
At Lincoln, he remained six years, studying divinity. A
vacancy in the see of St. David's at length occurred. The
chapter elected Giraldus ; but the archbishop refused to ratify
the election. Finding himself defeated by the archbishop and
the English court, he carried his cause to Rome, which city he
visited three times. At first he obtained a favourable hearing ;
but the gold of his adversaries turned the scale, and the Pope
passed a definitive, sentence, annulling the election. Giraldus
returned to England, and, wearied by persecution, resigned his
preferments in the church in favour of his nephew Philip de
Barri. He then retired into Wales, where he passed the la^t
seventeen years of his life in literary pursuits. He died at St.
David's at the age of seventy-four, and was buried in the cathe-
dral, where his monument yet remains. His writings are nume-
rous, and are most of them extant. H is Itinerary, published in
Latin by Dr. Powell, was reprinted a few years ago by Sir
Richard Hoare, who also favoured the public with an elegant
English version of this curious and interesting journal.
RADNORSHIRE.
WALES.
731
RADNORSHIRE.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.] — This county is bound-
ed on the north, by Montgomeryshire ; on the east,
by Shropshire, and Herefordshire ; on the north-
west, by Cardiganshire ; and on the south-west,
and south, by Brecknockshire. In form it resem-
bles that of an irregular triangle : its greatest length,
from north to south, is about twenty-four miles ;
its breadth, from east to west, about thirty. Its
superficial contents, according to Gary, are 249,600
square acres ; according to Clarke, 320,400 ; ac-
cording to the official returns, 291,200. — The air
of Radnorshire is cold and piercing. In ancient
times, this county was distinguished by its extensive
woods and forests ; but, with the exception of some
occasional coppices, of comparatively small extent,
those treasures have disappeared ; and, for many
years, very little attention lias been paid to the pre-
servation of the woodlands. Recently, however,
some of the land proprietors have very laudably
exerted themselves on this point. The chief river
of Radnorshire is the Wye, which rises near the
summit of Plinlimmon mountain, in Montgomery-
shire, and taking a southerly direction, enters this
county near Savan y Coed. After receiving the Elan
from the westward, a little below Rhayader, it be-
comes the boundary between this county and Breck-
nockshire, and so continues, with little exception,
till it enters Herefordshire, a few miles below the
Hay. The Elan, just mentioned, has some fine
romantic scenery. Farther on, it is joined by the
Ithon from the north-eastward ; a river which rises
near the northern extremity of Radnorshire. The
Edwy unites its waters with the Wye about four
miles below Builth ; and the Machwy, or Bachwy,
joins it a few miles farther on. The other rivers are
the Aro, or Arw, a small stream which takes the
direction of Knighton ; the Somergil, which passes
New Radnor ; the Lug, which enters Herefordshire
below Presteigne ; and the Teme, which runs through
Knighton, and separates Shropshire form this county.
Radnorshire has no lake of large extent ; but it con-
tains several smaller pieces of water ; amongst which
are Llyn Llanbychllyn, in the neighbourhood of
Paine's Castle ; and Hendwall Pool, on the right
of the road leading from Knighton to New Radnor.
Beyond Llanfihangel Nant Melon, on the summit
of a hill, and close to a turnpike road leading to
Builth, is Llyn Llanillin, a sheet of water of about
a mile in circumference, abounding with fish. Not
far from Rhayader, on the left of the road, is Llyn
Gwyn ; and, beyond Rhajuder, near the road lead-
ing towards Aberystwyth, is a small but very beau-
tiful lake. — This, though a hilly county, presents no
mountains of great elevation. The highest ground
is in the northern district ; on the borders of Mont-
gomeryshire.— The soil, as indicated by great in-
equalities of surface, is various. In the upper part
of the vale of the Wye, it is composed of a dark
grey loam, partaking of the colour of the hills,
whence it has been washed down. Lower down at
Builtb, it changes into a dark reddish brown, suit-
able for agricultural purposes. In the vale of Rad-
nor, the land is of a dark grey, rich and fertile. On
the south is a substratum of fine limestone. Towards
the middle of the county the soil is generally a
weak, spungy, unproductive clay. — Wheat, barley,
rye, oats, and peas, are chiefly cultivated. The
general manure is dung from the farm-yard. Lime
is used with great advantage on the south-east side
of the county. Irrigation is partially resorted to
for the improvement of the gi'ass lands. The wet
soils have, of late years, in some districts, been
greatly improved by draining. Agricultural imple-
ments here are of the worst construction ; but some
improvements have lately been made in the plough.
The usual ploughing, as well as cart teams, are
composed of two oxen and two horses each. Most
of the farms are divided into nearly equal portions
of arable and grazing land. The latter is chiefly
applied to the use of the dairy, as the young cattle
are reared on the extensive wastes which occupy
so large a proportion of the surface. The land
under tillage is estimated, by Clarke, at 83,000 acres;
and the meadow, pastures and woods, at 40,000 acres.
The common mountain and waste lands have been
stated at 200,000 acres, of which 50,000 acres are
considered well adapted for farming purposes, if
enclosed ; and the remaining 150,000 acres, are
deemed excellent sheep walks, and much of it fit
for the growth of timber. Since this estimate was
formed, however, considerable progress has been
made in enclosing the commons. The neat cattle of
this county are considered superior to those of most
of the mountainous districts of South Wales ; and
they weigh from 120 to 240 pounds, a quarter. They
are generally of a red colour. The sheep are small,
weighing from seven to thirteen pounds a quarter;
but when fattened on the hills, tlie mutton is excel-
lent. The horses, of a middling size, are strong
and hardy, but riot handsome. — The mineral trea-
sures of this couuty are hitherto tittle known. On
the south-east, is a stratum of limestone, valuable
both for mauure and building. The argillaceous
hills on the north, conjectured to resemble those of
Cardiganshire in mineral contents, have not yet been
explored/ A lead mine lias been opened in Cwiu
Elun, and some lead and copper ores have been
discovered in the neighbourhood of Llandrindod
Wells. — The medicinal springs at Llandrindod have
long been held in great repute, nnd are tnuch re-
sorted to in the summer. The waters nre of three
kinds : the first, a saline purgative water, resem-
bling that of Cheltenham and Leamington; the next,
a sulphur water, resembling that of Llanwrtyd, but
not quite so strongly impregnated ; the third, a
chalybeate, strongly impregnated with salts, and
acting as a powerful tonic. The first two springs
are very near each other, and within a short dis-
tance
WALES,
tance of a lodging house which has been fitted up
for the accommodation of visitors. The last men -
tioned is at the distance of about half a mile from j
the others, in a little rocky valley on the common. |
Mineral springs are found in other parts of the '
county; which, from general description, resemble '
those of Llandrindod. The springs of Llandegla, |
about two miles south-eastward from Pen y bout, |
have, within these few years, attracted notice. Pen i
y bont also has its sulphureous water ; and there is
u chalybeate spring in the neighbourhood. Other
springs are in the parishes of Llan Anno, Llanba-
darn Fynydd, and Llan-bister ; but their medicinal
properties are unknown.
The space which is comprehended within the pre-
sent boundaries of this county anciently formed part
of the district of Ferlex or Ferregs, which extended !
from the Severn to the Wye; but neither the etymo- !
logy of its modern English name, nor that of its I
Welsh name, Maesyved, or Maes Hyved, appears \
to be known. The supposition, however, is, that j
it was so called from Hyfaidd, one of the sons of \
Caradoc Fraichfras, king, or chief, of Brecknock,
who, previously to his appearance in Wales, had pos-
sessed himself of Ferregs, and is said to have formed
this portion of it into a lordship for his son. — Old
Radnor was formerly considered to be the site of a
Roman station, and, Caraden conjectured that it
was the Magnis of Antoninus ; but its Roman origin
is 'now discredited, and Magnis has been transferred
to Kenchester. There is, however, a Roman station
on a farm called Cwm, on the western bank of the
Ithon, about two miles north-westward from Llan-
drindod Wells. It is known by the name of Castell
CoHen, from the accidental circumstance, it is sup-
posed, of a hazel tree (in Welsh, Collen) growing
within the enclosure. The form of the camp is a
quadrangle, including an area of about four acres.
It appears to have been originally surrounded by a
thick stone wall, the massive foundations of which
may yet be traced. At a short distance vestiges of
other military works and buildings «may be per-
ceived, though now buried under the earth. The
vicinal Roman roads from Carmarthen, by Llando-
very, and from the Gaer near Brecknock, to Ches-
ter, appear to have united at this station. — This dis-
trict, having never formed a separate principality,
fell, after the departure of the Romans, under the
dominion of the different chieftains who rendered
themselves masters of the adjacent countries ; and
its general history consequently merges in that of
the principality at large. After the Conquest, it
became the prey of the Norman adventurers, priu-
* "The object of Llewelyn's journey to Aberedwy was to
enter into consultation with some of the chief persons of the
district, whom he was anxious to engage in his service against
the English sovereign, whose forces were then invading the
principality in different quarters. On his arrival, however, he
loutiil himself fatally disappointed ; for instead of meeting
cipally of tiie Mortimer family, and afterwards of
that of De Breos.
The population of this county in the year 1700,
was 15,300; in 1750, 10,200; in 1801, 19,700;
and in 1811, 20,000, or, allowing for absentees,
21,600. Its present divisions are into the hundreds
of Radnor, Rhayader, Knighton, Keven Fleece
(Cefn-Ays) Coluyn, and Paine's Castle. These
hundreds are subdivided into forty-six parishes, and
five parts of parishes. The county contains one
borough, New Radnor ; and three other market-
towns, Rhayadergwy, Knighton, and Presteigne.
The number of petty sessions is six, that of acting
county magistrates twenty The only manufactures
of this county are the coarse woollen cloths, flannel,
and stockings, which the peasantry make lor their
own consumption. From the paucity of its produc-
tions for exportation, its inland situation, and its
distance from any great mart, its trade and commerce
are also of little note. The public roads are better
now than they were formerly ; but they are not yet
good. Through the exertions of the late Colonel
Johnes, of Hafod, some time M.P. for the borough
of New Radnor, a post was established through this
county, to and from Aberystwith three times a week,
in each direction. During the summer, also, a stage-
coach travels the same road.
CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.
ABEREDWY.] — About four miles below Builth,
stands the delightful village of Aberedwy, deriving
its name from its situation near the junction of the
Wye with the little river Edwy. " Nothing," ob-
serves a contemporary writer, " can exceed in gran-
deur and picturesque beauty the scenery by which
this enchanting spot is completely surrounded. The
Edwy descends for a considerable distance through
a deep valley ; but, for half n mile before it joins
the Wye, its channel is confined on both sides by a
lofty wall of rock, in some places broken into crags,
which overhang the abyss, and threaten the daring
intruder who may venture beneath, to view, with
the greater advantage, the sublime prospect they
offer to his contemplation." The village is small
and dirty ; but the church forms a pleasing object
in the landscape. Close to thi churchyard is a
large tumulus, supposed to have been surmounted
by a fort. — Near the village are some inconsiderable
remains of Aber Edwy Castle, the favourite resi-
dence and the last retreat, of Llewelyn ab Gruffydd,
the last native prince of Wales, who wore the ensigns
of royalty. *
A few miles above Aberedwy, on a lofty eminence
commanding
friends, he perceived himself nearly surrounded by the forces
of his enemies. Edmund Mortimer and John Giffard having
had intimation of his route, marched to meet him with a large
body of. troops from Herefordshire. Considering, from the
number of the enemy, that resistance woald be vain, Llewelyn
withdrew with his men to Builth ; and as the ground was covered
with
WALES.
733
commanding the vale, once stood Colvvyn Castle,
of which scarcely a vestige remains. This for- ;
tress was probably constructed by some of the !
Norman settlors for the security of the possessions j
they had wrested from the native proprietors. Hav-
ing been destroyed by the Welsh, it was rebuilt of
stone by Henry III. in 1231. — Proceeding down |
the Wye, the next object of interest is the Screen, a ;
neat house in a pleasant situation. Beyond, is the j
vale of the Mach-wy, or Bach-wy, the little Wye.
Though it lies much out of the way, every curious
traveller should see it. As the habitable borders of
the Wye become evanescent, the whole scene assumes
an aspect of dreary grandeur, perfectly savage,
according with the current stories of the horrors
transacted in its recesses. The perpendicular sides
of the very difficult ascent inspire ideas of real dan-
ger, as well as of imaginary dread. After having
traversed the slippery ridge for some time, it becomes
necessary to descend ; and the descent is far more
difficult than at the Devil's Bridge. The dingle
is apparently terminated by a tremendous rock,
rising athwart the stream, on the top of which are
the foundations of some very ancient and rude
structure, termed the Castle of the Black Rock.
The story is, that one of the very ancient princes had
a castle here, where he kept his prisoners ; and that
he gratified the magnanimous propensities of his
nature, by hurling them, in rotation, from the top
of the rock into the dark pool below. After the
descent, a narrow ledge, on the brink of a. deeply-
worn pool, conducts the adventurer to n remarkable,
fall of the Bach-wy, which projects itself angularly
from behind the castle, as it finds its way from the
upper to the lower valley. The fall is estimated at
about thirty feet. Its position and circumstances
are eminently grand ; but its features are dark,
gloomy, terrific, and appalling. — Lower down the
with snow, he is said to have had his horses's shoes reversed in
order to dereive his pursuers. The smith, whose name was
Madoc goch min mawr, ' Red-haired, wide-mouthed Madoc,'
betrayed the secret to the English commanders. Llewelyn
succeeded in passing the bridge at BiiiHh and breaking it down
before the arrival of his pursuers. Having thus missed their
prey, the English party returned down Ihe river, and crossed
eight miles below at a ferry called Caban Twin bach, or Little
Tom's ferry boat. It is supposed that the garrison of Builth,
overawed by the presence of so large an English force in the
neighbourhood, refused to treat with the Welsh prince ; and
that he, in consequence, immediately proceeded to the west-
ward with the view of returning to North Wales, or of gaining
Carmarthenshire. He ascended the vale of Irvon on the
southern side for about three miles, and crossed the rivtr above
Llanynis, over a bridge called Pont y Coed, or the bridge of
the wood. Having reached the opposite bank, he stationed
the few troops who had accompanied him on the northern side
of the river, where the ground was peculiarly favourable for
defending the passage. On the arrival of the English forces,
they made a fruitless attempt to gain the bridge; but a knight
of the party, Sir Elias Walwyn, (a descendant of Sir Philip
Walw'vn, of Hay,) discovered a ford at some distance, where a
detachment cr.wd ihe river. These coming unexpectedly
in the rearot ti.«: Welsh troops routed them without difficulty.
Llewelyn himself, either in the flight, or while watching the
VOL. IV. — NO. 193.
Wye, delightfully situated on its northern bank,
stands the little village of Boughrood, or Bach-
rhyd, in which are some remains of an ancient castle,
now the property of Francis Fawkes, Esq. Beyond
is Maeslough, the residence of Walter Wilkins,
Esq. the grounds of which are extremely beautiful.
CF.FN LLYS.] — Cefn Llys, moaning the " pulace
ridge," or " hill," one of the contributory boroughs
to New Radnor, gives name to a hundred. It con-
tains some vestiges of a castle, which occupied aa
elevated and commanding site on the banks of the
Ithon, by which it was nearly surrounded. It was
built by Ralph Mortimer, about the year 1242. — A
few miles distant, (six miles N.E. from Rhayader,)
arc the ruins of Cwm Hir Abbey, the only monastic
establishment founded within the county. Its situ-
ation, in a fertile valley, enclosed by grand and lofty
mountains, is romantic and delightful. On the side
of the hill rising on the north, was the park, nine
miles in circumference, plentifully stocked with deer.
The abbey, dedicated to St. Mary, was founded and
endowed by Cadvvallon ah Madoc, in 1 113, for sixty
Cistercian monks. At the Dissolution, its annual
revenues were about 29/. — Proceeding towards
Rhayader, on the left of the road, is Llyu-y-Bar-
ried House, the residence of Mr. Evans.
KNIGHTON.] — The market-town of Kuighton, six
miles from Presteigne, and 156 from London, is
pleasantly situated in a valley, on the southern bank
of the Teme,' surrounded by hills. It consists of
several steep streets ; and, amongst some very re-
respectable houses, ti:ay be. mentioned the mansions
of Richard Price, Esq. and George Green, Esq.
Kiiighton is one of the contributory boroughs to New
Radnor. The burgesses share among them the.
annual rent produced by the market tolls. The
borough is governed by a bailiff, who is appointed at
a court-luet by the steward of the Cantref of Mael-
movcments of the main body, who were still on the other side
of the river, was attacked unarmed in a small dell about 200
yards below the scene of action, from him called Cum Lle-
welvn, or Llewelyn's dingle, by one Adam Francton, who
plunged a spear into his body. Francton took no farther notice
of his victim, but joined in the pursuit of ihe enemy. On his
return, probably with the view of plundering ll:e slain, he dis-
covered that the person whom lie had wounded (for he was still
alive) was the Prince of Wales; and on stripping him, a letter
in cypher and his privy-seal were found concealed about him.
Francton, overjoyed at perceiving whom he had in his power,
immediately cut of Ills head, and sent it to ihe Kingof England.
The body was dragged to a little distance, and buried in a place
still known by the name of Cefn y bedd, or Cefnbedd Llewelyn,
the ridge of Llewelyn's grave, near the banks of the Irvon.—
Llewelyn's grandfather, -"Llewelyn ab Jorwerth, had courage
and considerable talents, but he wassavLge in manners variable
in politics fickle in his attachments, and brutal in his revenge.
During the greatest part of his life he had a mere driveller to
oppose ; but the la-it Llewelyn, of whom we have been speaking,
had to contend with an Alexander (Edward I.) supported by
superior numbers and revenues. In short, he had all the virtues
of his ancestor with scarcely any of his vices; he had infinitely
more difficulties to encounter; and when he was favoured with
the smiles of fortune, _he owed them entirely to his own merit
and exertions."
8 z ienydd ;
734
WALES.
ienydd ; an office held by the Earl of Oxford, under
a lease from the crown. In 1811 Ihe population
.of this place amounted to 952. Here .was formerly
a castle, occupying a commanding site; but no
vestisjes of its walls are now to be traced. — Tref-y-
Clawild, or "the town on the dyke," the Welsh name
of Knighton, is derived from its situation on the cele-
brated earthen rampart, which Offa raised as a line
of partition and defence between the kingdom of
Mercia and the dominions of the Welsh princes. —
Beyond Knighton, on the left, is Dol-y-Felin, for-
merly the seat of John Pritchard, Esq. — About two
miles above Knightou, on the banks of the Teme,
is the little borough of Cnwclas, contributory to
Radnor. It had formerly a castle, built by Ralph
Mortimer, about the year 1242. This place gave
birth to Vavasor Powel, whose name is connected
with the history of the Welsh nonconformists.
PAINE'S CASTLE.] — A few miles N. from Maes-
lough, on the Wye, is the little village or township
of Paine's Castle, which formerly had a market.
Of the castle, conjectured to have derived its name
from Paganus, or Paine, a Norman, by whom it
was built, there are scarcely any vestiges.
PRESTEIGNE.] — Presteigne, Llan Andras, or St.
Andrew's, is situated on the eastern border of the
county, fourteen miles from Leominster, and 151
from London. It occupies a pleasant and fertile
spot, near the little river Lug, or Llugwy, which
here enters Herefordshire. Regarded as the metro-
polis of the county, it is, beyond comparison, the
handsomest and best built of its towns. The houses
are many of them very respectable, and the whole
exterior of the place lias an air of great neatness.
The chief public building is the town-hall, where
the county assizes are held. The church, a very
handsome structure, is surrounded by a cemetery
of great extent, through which are some public
walks. Here are several handsome private dwelling-
houses occupied bv families of fortune, or opulent
professional men. The population, in 1811, was
1114. — A borough by prescription, this town is
governed by a bailiff, appointed by the Earl of
Oxford, as stewaril of the Cantref of Maelienydd.
The market is much frequented by the farmers of
the surrounding districts.— Here is a well-endowed
free-school, for the use of the inhabitants of the
township, founded by John Beddowes, an opulent
clothier, in the reign of Elizabeth. — Adjoining the
town, on the north, is a circular hill of moderate
elevation, called the Warden, which is ornamented
with walks and pluntations, laid out with great taste.
The flat summit is occasionally the seat of great
festivities. — At a short distance from Presteigne, is
a place called the King's Turning, supposed to be
so named from King Charles I. having passed that
way. — About a mile from Presteigne, on the right
of the road to Knighton, is Boultibrook, the seat of
Sir Harford Jones ; near Beggar's Bush, on the
left of the road leading to New Radnor, is Even-
jobb, the seat of Mrs. Harley, the mother of the
Earl of Oxford ; on the right, Grove Hall, the seat
of Dr. Jenkins ; and, further on, at Kinnerton, is
the ancient and respectable mansion of Thomas
Stephens, Esq. — Proceeding to New Radnor, along
the main turnpike road leading from Knighton to
Rhayader, the first object of interest is Stanmore
Rock, a precipitous hill by the road side. On the
summit, which is extremely difficult of access, are
numbers of beautiful wild flowers peculiar to the
spot. The place is called the Devil's Garden.
RADNOR.] — The village of Old Radnor, Pen-y-
Graig, or Pen-y-Crug, " the summit of the rock,"
from its situation on a rocky eminence, consists of a
few straggling cottages. The church is a large and
venerable edifice ; comprising a nave, two side aisles,
and a chancel, and having a lofty square tower at
one end. From its elevated site, it forms a striking
object in the landscape. In the interior are several
very handsome monuments, of modern date, of the
Lewises of Harpton. It is also ornamented with a
screen of rich and curious workmanship. — No re-
mains of the castle are to be seen ; but there can be
no difficulty in identifying it with the Cruker Castle
of Giraldus, corrupted from Crug, or Craig. — A
few miles to the south-westward of Old Radnor, is
the church of Glascwm, celebrated ou account of a
circumstance thus recorded by Giraldus: — " In the
church of Glascwm," observes this writer, " is a
portable bell, endowed with great virtues, called
Bangu, and said to have belonged to St. David.
A certain woman secretly conveyed this bell to her
husband, (who was confined in the castle of Rai-
dergwy, near Warthrenion, which Rhys, son of
Gruffydd, had lately built) for the purpose of his
deliverance. The keeper of the castle not only
refused to liberate him for this consideration, but
seized and detained the bell ; and in the same night,
by divine vengeance, the whole town, except the wall
on which the bell hung, was consumed by tiro." — At
Walton, near Old Radnor, is a handsome modern
house, the residence of R. Urwick, Esq. ; beyond,
on the left, is the ancient mansion of Harpton Court,
the seat of T. F. Lewis, Esq. ; and farther, on the
right, is Downton Hall, the seat of P. Lewis, Esq.
New Radnor, formerly the metropolis of the shire,
but now only a miserable village, chiefly composed
of thatched cottages, with a population of only 380
persons, is twenty-four miles from Hereford, and 159
from London. " New Radnor towne," observes
Leland, " hathe be metly well wallyd, and in the
walle appere the ruines of iiii gates. There is an
olde churchestondynge now as a chapell by the cas-
tle. Not very farre thens is the new paroche churche
buildyd by one William Bachefeld and Flory his
wife. Ther goitli by the towne, as I remember, a
broket cawlyd somergil. The buildynge of the
towne in some parte meatly good, in most parte
but rude, many Howsys beinge thakyd. The castle
is in ruine, but that a pece of the gate was a late
amendyd. The towne was defacyd in Henry the
Fourthe dayes by Owen Glindowr." — From Speed's
map,
WALES.
map, in 1610, the town appears to have comprised
three streets running in a parallel direction east and
west ; and lour other streets intersecting them at
right angles, the easternmost of which was at the
upper end divided into two by what is called an
island of houses. Besides these, there were four
shorter streets, or lanes leading, from the upper
street, towards the castle and the church. The
names of some of the streets, as High Street, Broad
Street, and Water Street, are still retained, and the
streets may he traced among the gardens. The
public buildings are the town-hall, which has the
appearance of a barn ; and the prison, which are
both situated in Broad Street. " The decline of
Ne\V Radnor has been ascribed to the tranquillity
and settled state of the times, rendering a fortified
town unnecessary; to its proximity to Knighton and
Presteigne, both of them more convenient marts
for the farmers of Herefordshire ; and to its cold
situation, near 'the hills." — By the act of union, 26
Henry VI 1 1, New Radnor is constituted the shire
town, and the county or shire-court is appointed to
be holden here and at Rhayadergwy alternately ;
but by a subsequent statute this court is ordered to
be holden alternately at New Radnor and Presteigne,
and never at Riiayader. For the accommodation,
however, of the judges, &c. the assizes were removed
altogether to Presteigne. The sheriff's county courts
for the recovery of debts under forty shillings, are
still held here, alternately with Presteigne. — The
corporation consists of a bailiff, twenty-five capital
burgesses, two aldermen, a recorder, coroner, town-
clerk, sergeants at mace, &c. The bailiffand alder-
men are elected annually out of the capital burgesses,
and while in office are justices of the peace within
the jurisdiction of the borough : the bailiff retains
his commission as justice for one year after he goes j
out of office. There are, besides, three other jus- j
tices of the peace appointed annually out of the j
capital burgesses, to assist the bailiff and aldermen. !
The borough of Radnor, wherein the magistrates of '
the corporation supersede the authority of the county
justices, includes the neighbourhood of the town for
the distance of four or five miles in every direction.
The parliamentary representative is chosen by the
burgesses, jointly with the contributory boroughs
of Knighton, Riiayader, Cefn Llys, and Cnwclas,
the bailiff being the returning officer. The num-
ber of the voters of this place is estimated at 300;
and the whole number, in all the boroughs, at from
1200 to 1400. The qualification for a burgess of
New Radnor is a bona fide residence within the
jurisdiction at the time of his election ; and a capital
burgess becoming non resident forfeits his privilege.
The church, a respectable edifice on the side of the
bill which rises above the town on the north, consists
of a nave, a south aisle, and chancel, extending
altogether 114 feet in length by 33 in width ; with a
large square tower ,at the west end, covered with
tiles. Originally, however, it was surrounded by
an embattled parapet, and had a small turret rising
above it at the south-west angle. The old church,
which Leland mentions as standing near the castle,
has disappeared. — The castle occupied a command-
ing eminence above the north cast angle of the town.
The outward intrenchments are still in good preser-
vation. The outer ward, or green court, retains its
original form, and is distinct from the inner enclosure
of the keep. This fortress, originally of great
strength, was an important post, commanding the
pass from the open country into the mountainous
district. The course of the strong and lofty tower
wall, with a deep moat on the outside, may yet be
distinctly traced by the ruins of the foundations,
and the exterior ditch, which in some places on the
west and south is only partially filled. — The destruc-
tion of the fortifications, including the castle and
walls, is ascribed to Owen Glyndwr ; " and the
voice is there," observes Leland, " that after be
wonne the castel, he tooke a iii score men that had
the garde of the castel, and causid them to be
beheddid on the brinkc of the castel yarde, and that
sins a certen bloodeworth growith ther wher the
bloode was shedde." This town was honoured with
the presence of the crusaders, Archbishop Baldwin,
and Giraldus, and was the first Welsh town at which
they preached the cross. — About two miles to the
westward of New Radnor, in a narrow defile among
the hills on the right, is a waterfall of some celebrity,
called " Water-break-its-neck." The depth of the
cataract is about seventy feet ; but its picturesque
effect is much diminished by the nakedness of the
adjacent grounds. — Proceeding towards Riiayader,
about three miles from Radnor, is Llanfihangel Nant
Melon, or Nant Melin, which presents a neater
exterior than most of the villages of this county.
A little beyond, the road to Builth diverges on the
left. — Ten miles from New Radnor, on the banks of
the Ithou, is the village of Pen y bout, the posting
stage between Knighton and Riiayader. The re-
spectable inn here was built by the late Mr. John
Price, who about the same time erected an excellent
mansion for himself. Here is also the residence of
Middleton Jones, Esq. Here is a post-office; and
a stage-coach passes this way in the summer twice
every week, for Aberystwyth. — At Llanddewi Yslratl
Ennau, two miles above Pen y bont in the vale of
Ithou, are the remains of an ancient British encamp-
ment called the Gaer. On the opposite side of the
vale is a large tumulus or barrow, called Bedd
Ygre, or Ygre's Grave. About two miles from this
spot once stood Castcll Cymaron, the only remain-
ing vestige of which, to indicate its site, is the moat
by which it was surrounded. Near the upper extre-
mity of the vale of Ithon are some remains of Dynbot,
or Tynbot Castle, the site of which may be traced
by the ruins of the foundation. It was destroyed
by Llewelyn ab Gruffydd in 1260.
RHAYADER.] —The market- town of Rhayadergwy,
signifying the " cataract of the Wye," from its
situation, near the descent of that river over a ledge
of rocks, is 25 miles from Presteigne, and 178 from
- London.
WALES.
London. Formerly the fall was considerable ; but
on the building of the present bridge, in 1780, the
channel was cleared of its principal obstructions,
and a freer passage opened for the water, so that its
characteristic feature has been almost destroyed. —
The town, of small extent, comprises four streets, or
two long streets, intersecting each other at right
angles. Near their junction stands the town-hall,
with a covered market underneath. This edifice
•was built by subscription in 17.62. The population
of Rhayader, in 1811, was 446. Here is a small
manufactory of coarse cloth. The town is governed
by a bailiff, who is annually chosen at a court leet.
The burgesses are elected by the town jury at a
court leet. — The gaol occupied the site on which
the Presbyterian meeting-house stands. — Anciently
Rhayader derived its chief importance from its castle,
of which no vestige remains excepting the fosse, whicli
was excavated out of the solid rock. The fortress
was very eligibly situated on a precipitous point of
land, which projects into the channel of the river
on the north of the town. It is said to have been
built about 1178 by Rliys ab Gruffydd, prince of
South Wales, to check the depredations of the
Norman freebooters. — Rhayader Church, a respect-
able modern edifice, consists of a nave and chancel,
rebuilt in 1733, and the tower in 1783. A religi-
ous house of Dominican-friars, near the bridge,
shared the fate of similar establishments in the time
of Henry VIII. In the neighbourhood are several
tumuli, barrows, or Carneddau. The largest is in
Cwm y dau ddwr, which is designated Tominen St.
Ffraid, or the tumulus of St. Bridget, assigned as
the burial-place of that saint, to whom the parish
church is dedicated. — The ancient name of the dis-
trict in which Rhayader is situated, was Gwrtbry-
tiion, or Warthrenion, said to be derived from the
British sovereign Vortigern, whose Welsh name is
written Gwrtheyrn ; and it is asserted that on his
overthrow he retreated to the wilds of this neigh-
bourhood, where he built the castle, in which lie
afterwards perished in the (ire that destroyed the
fortress itself'. This opinion, however, rests on no
historical evidence. — According to Giraldus, this
province was much distinguished in his days by
miraclous events. " In Warthrenion," says he,
" and in the church of St. Gennar.us, there is a
staff of St. Cyric, covered on all sides with gold
and silver, and resembling in its upper part the
form of a cross : its efficacy has been proved in
many cases, but particularly in the removal of glan-
dular and strenuous swellings, insomuch that all
persons afflicted with these complaints, on a devout
application to the staff, with the oblation of one
penny, are restored to health. But it happened in
these, our days, that a strenuous patient on present-
ing one halfpenny to the staff, the humour subsided
only in the middle ; but when the oblation was com-
pleted by the other halfpenny, an entire cure was
accomplished. Another person also coming to the
staff with the promise of a penny, was cured ; but
not fulfilling his engagement on the day appointed,
he relapsed into his former disorder ; in order, how-
ever, to obtain pardon for his offence, he tripled the
offering by presenting three-pence, and thus obtain-
ed a complete cure." — Noyadd, a respectable man-
sion near Rhayader, is the seat of H. P. Evans, Esq. ;
and Cwm Elan is the seat of T. Grove, Esq. — In
the parish of Cwn y dau ddwr is a farm called
Coed y Mynach, or Monks' Wood ; from which
some have been led to believe, that a monastery
once existed here. — Descending the Wye, within
two miles of Builth, are some inconsiderable re-
mains of a fortress, surrounded by a moat; and, on
an eminence, on the left of the road, opposite to
Builth, is Wellfield House, a neat modern mansion,
built by D. Thomas, Esq. The grounds are orna-
mented by some flourishing young plantations. Half
a mile from Builth Bridge, near the banks of the
Wye, is Llanelwedd Hall, an ancient seat of the
Gwynnes. — Just beyond Llanelwedd Church, a road
diverges on the left towards Llandrindod Wells,
distant about five miles. On the road is Pen- y Cerig,
one of the oldest gentlemen's seats in the neighbour-
hood. Clarke, in his Agricultural Survey, states,
that the keelson of the Royal George grew on this
estate.
FAIRS.] — The following is a list of all the fairs
in Wales, arranged in alphabetical order ; the letter
N. or S. affixed to the name of each county, indi-
cating the Not them or Southern division of the prin-
cipality, to which it may belong.
ANGLESEA. (N.)
dberfraw — March 7, Wednesday after Trinity,
October 2.3, and December 1 1, for cattle.
jlmlicick — November 12, for cattle.
Beaumarh — February 13, Holy-Thursday, Sep-
tember 19, and December 19, for cattle.
Lainieichyinead— February 5, April 25, St. Mark,
May 6, Thursday after Trinity, for cattle.
L/aiifechell— February 25, August 5, November 5,
and November 2(5, cattle.
Xetcbtttg/i— June 22, August 10 and 21, Sept. 25,
November 11, for cattle.
l}entiaat/t-Alon — May 5, Friday after Trinity,
August 16, October 3, November 12, for cattle.
Perthathreay— August 2Q, September 26, Oct. 24,
November 14, for cattle.
BRECKNOCKSHIRE. (S.) '
Brecknock— First Wednesday in March, May 4,
July 5, September 9, November 16, for leather,
hops, cattle, ami all sorts of commodities.
Biiuilt— June 27, October 2, December 6, for
sheep, horned cattle, and horses.
L'upei Corh — September 28.
Crick/toKL-l— January 1, May 12, for cattle, sheep,
goats, and horses. August 21.
Liyn/noif — April 10, May 9, August 12, Oct. G,
December &
Hay —May 17, August 10, October 10, for sheep,
horneci catile, and horses.
nud
WALES.
737
Llangynud— April 20, October 7, December 1,
Wednesday before Christmas.
Talgarlh— Feb. 9, March 12, May 31, July 10,
September 23, November 2, December 3, for cattle,
sheep, and horses.
Pout Nedd Fec/ian— First Saturday after March
12, Saturday before May 12, Saturday before July 5,
Saturday before August 26, September 21, Novem-
ber 14.
Penderyn— April 15, November 12, 13.
Trecastle— January 17, Aprils, May 21, Aug. 14,
October 14, November 13, December 14, for sheep,
cattle, hogs, and horses.
CARDIGANSHIRE. (S.)
Cardigan— February 13, April 5, for small horses
and pedlar's ware; August 26, Sept. 8, Dec. 19,
ditto and cattle.
Aberae ran— November 13.
4berarth—Ju\y 5, December 11.
Abtrystwyth — Monday before January 5, Palm-
Monday, Whit-Monday, May 14, June 21, Septem-
ber 16, Monday before November 11.
Capel St. Si/in— February 7, for pigs and pedlar's
ware.
Capel Cyncn — Ascension-day, Thursday after St.
Michael, September 29, for cattle, horses, sheep, &c.
< New Quay— November 12.
Llantcydde/iis — May 9, for pigs and pedlar's ware.
Llaiipetr— Whit-Wednesday, July 10,October 19.
L/andewi Breri — May 7, July 24, October 9,
November 13.
Llandysul — February 11, Palm Thursday, small
horses, sheep, and pedlary ; September 19, cattle,
horses, and sheep.
Lfanarth — January 12, March 12, June 17, Sep-
tember 22, for horses, cattle, &c. October 27.
L/angaranog — May 27.
Llanrhystyd — Thursday before Easter, Thursday
before Christmas.
Llanwynon — December 13, cattle, horses, cheese,
and pedlary.
Llanwenog — January 14, for cattle, horses, and
pigs.
Lledrod — October 7.
Llitest Newydd — September 23, October 8, second
Friday after October 10.
Rhos — Whit-Thursday, August 5 and 26, Sep-
tember 25, for cattle, horses, wool, and pedlary.
Taharn — Septembers, November 7, for cattle,
horses, and pedlary.
Tregaron — March 16, for horses, pigs, stockings,
cloth, flannel, wool, and pedlary.
Trevthedyn in Emlyn — June 22, July 1, Novem-
ber 22.
Ystradmeirig—Ju]\' 2, for pigs, wool, and ped-
lury.
CARMARTHENSHIRE. (S.)
Jbercynnen—'Muy 5, November 22.
AbergtsyK — June 23, October 2 and 27, for cattle,
horses, and pedlary.
Bol y Cnstell— June-24.
VOL. iv. — NO. 194.
Carmarthen— June 3, July 10, August 12, Sep-
tember 9, October9, November 14, 15, for cattle
horses, and pedlary.
Oreo-May 10, August 21, October 6, cattle,
horses, and pedlary.
Cynwyl Elred — November 21.
Cross Inn — March 23, 24.
prytfoyn—Jnly I, August 13, for cattle, horses,
and sheep.
Llanbeudy— September 18.
Llanborn — May 6.
Llandarog.— ftlonday after May 20, Sept. 27.
Llandensant — October 10.
Llanarthne — Monday after July 12.
Kydveli — May 24, August 1, October 29, for
cows, calves, cattle, and pedlary.
Llanedi — November 8, for cattle, horses, and
pedlary.
Llanelli— Ascension-day, September 30, for cattle
horses, and pedlary.
'
, cattle, horses, and
pedlary; July 16, December 26.
Llandovery— Wednesday after Epiphany, Wed-
nesday after Easter week, Whit-Tuesday, July 31,
Wednesday after October 10, November 26, for
cattle, pigs, stockings, &c.
Llandeila Fat;';— January 8, February 20, Palm-
Monday, June 4, cattle, horses, sheep, and wool.
Llandeilo f'ach — June 12.
Laugharn—MsLy 6, called St. Mark's Fair, Sep-
tember 28.
Llangadoc— March 12, horses and pedlary; last
Thursday in May, July 2, first Thursday alter llfh
of September, cattle, horses, and sheep ; second
Thursday after old Michaelmas, cattle anrl pedlary.
Langyndei/rn—A.\\gU9t 5, for' cuttle, horses, and
pedlary.
Llangenych— October 23, for cattle, horses, and
pedlary.
Lannon—July 6, December 12, for aattle, horse?,
and pedlary.
Llanvynydd~M.ay 6, July 5, September 28, No-
vember 19.
Llatigatken— April 16, September 22.
Llangvnin — January 18.
Llanllwch— September 29.
Lhimawel— First Friday after May 12, cattle and
pedlary ; July 15, October 23, cattle, horses, and
pedlary ; first Friday in November.
Llanvihangel — May 12, October 10, cattle, horses,
and sheep.
Ltani/bydder—June 2 1, July 17, for pedlar's ware ;
November 1 and 21, for cattle, sheep, horses, and
cheese.
Meidrim — March 12, for cattle, horses, and flannel.
Newcastle in Hmlyn— March 23, May 10, June 22,
July 20, August 20, September 10, November 22.
1 Myddvai — October 18.
Newcastle in li/ids — June 22, for cattle, horses,
and sheep.
New Inn — January 10, June 2, July 21, Aug. 19,
8 * Penybont
738
WALES.
Pemjbont — December 5, for cattle, tallow, and
pedlary.
Rhos Cil Maen Lltryd—Mny 17, July 19, Sept. 27,
October 30.
Tal Ychain— June 22, September 20.
Ty Gwynar Dor— February 13, April 3, Aug. 28,
September 19, December 19.
CARNARVONSHIRE. (N.)
Aberconway — April 6, September 4, October 10,
November 8, for cattle.
Abeneingregin — August 18, October 26, Nov. 21,
for cattle.
Hangar— April 5, June 25, October 28, for cattle.
Beddgelert — August 18, September 23, for cattle.
Bettxs — May 15, December 3, for cattle.
Bort/i — August 26, October 2-1, for cattle.
Carnarvon — February 25, May 16, August 4,
December 4, for cattle and pedlar's ware.
Ctynnogfarer — August 18, Sept. 25, for cattle.
Ciikcith—May 23, July 1, October 18, for cattle.
Llandelcliyd— October 30, for cattle.
Nevyn — April 4, Saturday before Whitsuntide,
August 25, for cattle.
Penmricfnio — August 23, September 21, for cattle.
Penmorsa — August 20, September 25, Nov. 12,
for cattle.
Pwlhely— May 13, August 19, September 24,
November 11, for cattle.
Rhi/datlafray — June 29, for cattle.
Sarnfoldyrn — June 27, for cattle.
Talyboat — May 7, September 3, November 7, for
cattle.
Tefrhiew—Mny 12, Sept. 3, Nov. 7, for cattle.
DENBIGHSHIRE. (N )
Alergely — April 2, the day before Holy Thursday ;
August 20, October 9, for cattle.
doeaynog — Easter Tuesday, Oct. 24, for cattle.
Cerriggy D/uidwn — April 27, August 27, Oct. 20,
December 7, for cattle.
Chirk — Second Tuesday in February, second Fri-
day in June, November 12, sheep, horned cattle, and
horses.
Denbigh — May 14, July 18, September 25, for
cattle and small pedlary.
Eggfteysfach— February 24, May 11, August 24,
November 24, for cattle.
Grc&sford — Second Monday in April, last Monday
in August, first Monday in December, for cattle.
Girthrin — M;iy 6, for cattle.
Jjoit — June 22, October 29, for cattle.
Llandetga— March 1 1 , St. Mark, April 25, June 23,
August 4, October 26, for cattle.
Lane/ion — Monday after Easter week, July 25,
October 5, December 8, for cattle.
Ltaiigeniies:— March 29, May 16, June 29, Sep-
tember 29, November 29, for cattle.
Ltiiiigcl/on — Last Friday in January, March 17,
May 3 1, August 21, November 22, for sheep, horned
cattle, and horses.
Llanrhiad ~Difffi.n-Alwyd.~- October 17, for cattle.
Llanrhaiadr — May 5, July 21, September 28,
November 8, for sheep, horned cattle, and horses.
Llamaimon — May 18, August 17, October 26,
November 30, cattle.
Llamamon in Yak— July 30, October 19, for cattle.
LlanK-rsk— April 25, June 21, August 9, Sept. 17,
December 11, for cattle and small pedlary.
LlamiJydd—M&rch 18, May 12, August 14, No-
vember 20, for cattle.
Nnntglyn—May 6, October 27, for cattle.
Kuabon— Last Friday in February, May 22, No-
vember 20, for cattle.
Ruthin— March 19, Friday before Whit-Sunday,
Augusts, September 30, November 10, for cattle and
small pedlary.
Sputty— May 21, July 3, September 27, Oct. 23,
December 2, cattle.
Wrexham — March 23, Holy Thursday, June 6,
September 19 ; for cattle, hardware, Manchester
ware, horses, hops, and all sorjs of seeds in March.
FLINTSHIRE. (N.)
•St. Asaph — Easter Tuesday, July 15, October 16,
December 26, for cattle.
Caergwrhi] — Shrove Tuesday, May 16, Aug. 12,
October 27, for cattle.
Cacni'i/s — March 16, last Tuesday in April, Trinity
Thursday, first Tuesday after July 7, September 9,
for cattle,
Flint— February 14, June 24, Aug. 10, Nov. 30,
for cattle.
Hcncarden — October 1, December 24, for cattle.
Mold— February 23, May 12, Aug. 2, Nov. 22,
cattle.
Newmarket — Last Saturday in April, third Satur-
day in July, fourth Saturday in October, second
Saturday in December, cattle.
Northorp — March 14, July 7, October 12, for
cattle.
Overtoil— Monday before Holy Thursday, June 11,
August 29, October 8, for cattle.
Rudlund — February 2, March 25, September 8,
for cattle.
GLAMORGANSHIRE. (S.)
Abcraran — November 10.
Brigor by Ezcenni — October 16.
Bndgend — Ascension-day, Nov. 27, for cattle,
sheep, and hogs.
Cape! Creunaiit — Whit-Monday, September 29,
November 20.
Cardiff— July 10, August 26, Sept. 19, Dec. 11,
for cattle.
Caerjili— April 5, June 6, July 19, August 25,
October 9, November 16.
Cambridge — May 4, June 21, September 29.
Di/jryn Golych — August 21, cattle.
E/ai — July 22, cattle, December 11.
. L/aticaiTan— Wednesday before Easter.
Llancyi-efach — March 1.
Llancynwyd — May 1 .
Llanrydan — Palm Monday.
JJandaff
WALES.
739
Llandrtff — February 9, Whit-Monday, for cattle
and stockings.
Lantrisainl—May 21, August 12, October 23, for
cattle.
Lltjchor— October 10, for cattle, sheep, and hogs.
St. Maiys Hill, near Cowbridge — August 26,
cattle.
Merthyr Tydvil—M&y 14.
Neatk — Trinity Thursday, July 31, Sept. 12,
for cattle, sheep, and hogs.
St. Nicholas — December 8, for cattle.
Penrice— May 17, June 20, July 17, Sept. 17.
Pentfiyn — December 11.
Y Warn — May 13, June 2, July 1, September 2,
November 20.
Swansea—- May 2, July 2, August 15, Octobers,
and the two following Saturdays, for cattle, sheep,
and hogs.
MERIONETHSHIRE. (N.)
Bala— May 14, July 10, September 11 and 28,
October 24, November 8, for sheep, horned cattle,
and horses.
Betlws— March 16, June 22, August 12, Sept. 16,
December 12, sheep, horned cattle, and horses.
Cnrsydy — October 21, sheep, horned cattle, and
horses.
Corwen— March 12, May 24, July 21, October 10,
December 26, for sheep, horned cattle, and horses.
Dinas Mawddwy— June 2, Sept. 10, October 1,
November 13, sheep, horned cattle, and horses.
Dolgel/au—M&y 11, July 4, Sept. 20, Oct. 0,
November 22, December 16, for sheep, horned
cattle, and horses.
Harlech— Thursday after Trinity, June 30, August
21, December 11, for cattle.
Llanderfel — August 17, sheep, horned cattle, and
horses.
Llandrillo—TFeb, 25, July 5, Aug. 28, Nov. 14,
for sheep, horned cattle, and horses.
Llansaiver — August 25, sheep, horned cattle, and
horses.
L/anusochilyn— April 25, June 20, September 22,
October 16, for sheep, horned cattle, and horses.
Pent/street in Ttmesfyiiyd— August 17, Sept. 21,
for cattle.
Testiiivg— May 24, Friday after Trinity, July 2,
August 22, September 26, October 19, Novem. 13,
for cattle.
Towyn — May 13, sheep, horned cattle, and horses.
MONTGOMERYSHIRE. (N.)
Llamdloes — First Saturday in April, May 11,
July 17, first Saturday in September, October 28,
sheep, horned cuttle, and horses.
Ltatmjtlin— Wednesday before Easter, May 24,
June 28^ Oct. 5, for sheep, horned cattle, andliorses.
Machynlfmth—M&y 10, June 10, July 9, Sept. 18,
November 25, for sheep, horned cattle, and horses.
Montgomery— March 26, First Thursday in May,
June 7,°September 4, November 14, sheep, horned
cattle, and horses.
Netelown— Last Tuesday in March, first Tuesday
after New May-day, Jnne24, last Tuesday in Au-
gust, October 22, December 16, for sheep, horned
cattle, and horses.
Wekh Poole — Second Monday in March, first
Monday before Easter, June 5, first Monday after
July 10, September 12, and November 16, for sheep,
horned cattle, and horses.
PEMBROKESHIRE. (S.)
Aberarlh— March 21, June 4, July 5, August 10,
September 26, December 11.
Aberdaw— April 1 and 16, August 10, Sept. 13.
Camros — February 13, cattle, horses, sheep, &c.
Eglwyswrw — Ascension-day, first Monday after
November 22, for cattle, horses, sheep, &c.
Fisgard — February 5, Easter Monday, Whit-
Monday, July 23, August 28, November 17.
Henveddaii—Mny 13, September 17, October 30.
flerbraiiston— August 12.
I-Javerfozd West— May 12, June 12, July 18, Sep-
I tember 23, Oct. 18, for cattle, horses, sheep, &c.
Ki/geraint — August 21, November 12, for cattle,
horses, and pedlary ; a large fair.
Llanhuaden — October 23, Nov. 22, for cattle,
horses, sheep, &c.
Maenclochog — March 10, May 22, August 5, Mon-
day before October 29, for sheep, a few cattle, &c.
Mathri — Oct. 10, for cattle, horses, and pedlary.
Monckton— May 14, November 22.
Newcastle in Cemaes — 31ay 6, July 10.
Newport — May 14, June 27, cattle, horses, and
sheep.
Pembroke — May 14, Trinity Monday, July 16,
September 25, cattle, horses, sheep, and cloth.
St. David' 's — August 9, December 11.
7 «%— -Whit-Tuesday, May 4, July 1, Oct. 2,
December 1, cattle, horses, and sheep.
'J'rev Bevured — August 12.
'J'revhi — November 22.
JViston — Oct. 20, for cattle, horses, and sheep.
RADNORSHIRE. (S.)
Castell y Maen— July 18, November 13.
Huwau — Saturday before February 11, Saturday
before May 11, and Saturday before November 11,
sheep, horned cattle, and horses.
Knigfiton — Thursday before Easter, May 17, Oc-
I tober 2, last Thursday in October, Thursday before
: November 12, sheep, horned cattle, and horses.
Pain's Castle—May 12, September 22, Dec. 15,
sheep, horned cattle, -and horses.
Pont lihyd y Cleirion — May 12, September 27,
! October 26, for sheep and horned cattle.
Presteigne — June 25, Dec. 11, for sheep, horned
1 cattle, and horses.
; Radnor— Tuesday before Holy Thursday, Aug. 14,
October 25, for sheep, horned cattle, and horses.
Jifiaiader—A-ug. 6 and 27, Sept. 26, Dec. 3,
t commonly called Dom Fair, for sheep, horned
'cattle and horses.
THE
740
THE ISLE OF WIGHT
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
"The Isle of Wight," observes Worsley, in his
history of the island, " is the largest and most
valuable of the appendant British Islands. It is
situated opposite the coast of Hampshire, from
which it is separated by a channel, varying in
breadth from two to seven miles ; it is considered as
part of the county of Southampton, and is within
the diocese of Winchester. The figure of the island
comes nearest to that of a rhombus, or lozenge, but
extremely irregular. Its greatest length, extending
from east to west, measures nearly 23 miles ; its
breadth from north to south about 13. The best
computations make its superficial contents amount
to about 100,000 acres. The air is in general
healthy, particularly the southern parts ; the soil is
various, affording a greater diversity than is to be
found in any other part of Great Britain of the same
extent. The island is divided into two hundreds,
separated by the course of the river Mede, Medham,
orMedine, which, rising near the bottom of St. Cathe-
rine's Down, runs northwards, and discharges itself
into the channel, between East and West Cowes.
These hundreds are distinguished by the names of
East and West Medine, according to their situation
with respect to that river. They contain 30 parishes.
In general, such is the purity of the air, the fertility
of the soil, and the beauty and variety of the land-
scapes, that this island has often been styled the
Garden of England." — The population of the island,
in the year 1801, was 22,097 ; in 1811, according
to the detailed statement, comprised in our Popula-
tion Table for the county of Hants, * was 24,120.
* Vide Vol. H. page 497.
f " The Greeks of Marseilles," observes Whitaki-r, from
Sliabo and Dioclorus as authorities, " first followed the tract
of the Phoenician voyagers ; and some time before the days
of Polyljius, and abo'ut 200 years before the age of Christ,
began to share with them in the trade of tin. The Carthaginian
commerce declined ; the Massyiian commerce increased ; and
in tlie reign of Augustus, the whole of the British traffic had
been gradually directed into this channel. At that period the
commerce ot the Island was very considerable: two toads
It has been conjectured, by many, that the Isle
of Wight was originally connected with the main
land, hut that the violence of the sea had gra-
dually disjoined it from the neighbouring shore.
Whitaker remarks, that its name is evidently derived
from the British Guith, or Guict, signifying the
divorced, or separated : hence arose the appellation
of Vectis, or the separated region, for the Isle of
Wight. Diodorus Siculus, who speaks of an island
by the name of Ictis, to which he affirms the Britons
carried their tin over in carts at the recess of the
tide, in order to export it to the opposite coasts of
Gaul, is thought by many to allude to the Isle of
Wight. The original tin staple was certainly at the
Cassiterides, or the Scilly Isles ; but previously to
the time of this historian, it had been removed to
the Roman Fec.tis, or Isle of Wight. f Suetonius,
who is the first of the Roman authors that notices
the Isle of Wight, records that it was conquered by
Vespasian about the year 43 ; no remains of Roman
occupation, however, either of camps, or coins,
appear to have been ever met with here. Cerdic,
the Saxon chieftain, and founder of the kingdom of
Wessex, conquered the Isle; and, having slain most
of its inhabitants, replaced them by Jutes and Saxons,
over whom he placed his nephews, Stuff and With-
gar. In 661, it was again subdued by Wulphure,
King of Mercia, who bestowed it upon Adelwach,
King of Sussex, whom he had previously vanquish-
ed, and made prisoner. Ceadwalla, a "descendant
from Cerdic, again seized it about fifteen years
afterwards, as his rightful inheritance, and Bede re-
lates,
were laid across the country, and reached from Sandwich lo
Carnarvon on one side, and extended from Dorsetshire into
Suffolk on the oilier: and the commerce of the coasts must
have IXHI carried along them into the interior regions, ol the
Island. The great staple of tin was no longer settled in a dis-
tant corner: it was removed from Sciily, and was fixed in the
Isle of Wight, or central part of the coast, lying equally be-
Uvixt the two roads, and belter adapted to the new arrangement
of the trade. Thither the tin was carried by the ftelga: ;
thilher the foreign merchants resorted with their wares ; and
the
THE ISLE OP WIGHT.
741
fates, that he had determined to root out the inha-
bitants as idolaters ; but that Bishop Wilfrid had
the address to prevail on him to spare all who would
submit to receive baptism. The two youthful bro-
thers of the deposed sovereign, were, however, put
to death, even after they had consented to embrace
Christianity. A. D. 787, the island was seized by
the Danes, with a design to make it a place of re-
treat, to which they might retire with their plunder
from the neighbouring coasts. How long they con-
tinued here is unknown ; but in the reign of Alfred,
they again landed, and plundered the inhabitants.
In 1001, in the time of Ethelred the Unready, they
once more seized the isle, and retained it for many
years, making it their head-quarters on this coast,
and the place whence they issued to commit their
piracies. In the reign of Edward the Confessor, it
was twice plundered by Earl Godwin ; and again
in the time of Harold, by Earl Tosti, a son of the
Earl. On the accession of William the Conqueror,
that sovereign granted the lordship of the isle to
his kinsman, William Fitz-Osborne, afterwards
Earl of Hereford, " to be held by him as freely as
he himself held the realm of England." Fitz-
Osborne ejected all the original possessors, excepting
the officers or servants of Edward the Confessor,
and granted their lands to his followers. Henry
I. granted the lordship of this isle, with many other
lands, to Richard de Redvers, Earl of Devon ; from
whose grandson, Richard, they descended to Wil-
liam de Vernon, a collateral branch of the family.
The latter nobleman, who was styled Earl of the
Isle of Wight, was one of the four who supported
the silk canopy over Richard Cceur de Lion, at his
second coronation at Winchester. King John ob-
liged him to pay a fine of 500 marks, before .he
•would give him permission to exercise the right that
appertained to his landed possessions ; among which,
was the governing his tenants in the Isle of Wight
by military service. This, and the many similar
acts of oppression, exercised by John on his barons,
occasioned the memorable confederacy which forced
the king to sign the Magna Charta. Isabella de
Fortibus, great grand-daughter to William de Ver-
non, released the lordship to Edward I. on her death-
bed, for the sum of 6000 marks. The validity of
the trade was no longer carried on by vessels that roasted tedi-
ously along the winding shores of Spain and of Gaul : it was
now transported over the neighbouring channel, and unshipped
on the opposite coast. The isle of Wight was now actually a
part of the greater Island, disjoined from it only by the tide,
and united to it always at the ebb : and during the recess of the
waters, the Britons constantly passed over the low isthmus of
land, and carried their loaded carls of tin directly across it." —
The circumstance of the tin staple being continued in the neigh-
bouring port of Southampton, even so late as the 15th century,
is thought to corroborate its having been previously fixed at the
Isle of Wight — Amongst the supporters of the opinion, that
the Isle of Wight was the Ictis of Uiodorus, was the late Rev.
W. Gilpin. " As we entered Lymmgton river," says he, " we
found a fresh proof of the probability of the ancient union be-
tween Vectis and the main. The tide was gone, and had left
vast stretches of ooze along the deserted shores. Here we saw,
VOLi IV. — JiO. 194.
the grant was afterwards questioned in parliament,
but it was finally determined in the king's favour.
Edward held it till death ; intrusting its defence to
citstodes, or wardens. By Edward II. it was granted
to Piers Gaveston ; but, through the remonstrances
of his nobility, he resumed the grant the following
year, and bestowed the island on his eldest son,
afterwards Edward II 1. iu whose reign, and in that
of Richard II. it was several times assaulted by the
French, and partially plundered. Carisbrooke
Castle, then the only fortress on the isle, was, in
1377, besieged by the invaders, but without suc-
cess. When the French quitted the isle, they levied
a contribution of 1000 marks, and obliged the inha-
bitants to swear not to resist should they revisit
them within a year. In this expedition they burnt
the village of Rye, and the towns of Newtown and
Yarmouth. Richard II. granted the isle to William
Montacute, second Earl of Salisbury, for life. After
his death, this lordship was granted to Edward,
Earl of Rutland, after wards Duke of Yoik, who led
the van at the battle of Agincourt, in the 3rd of
Henry V. ; but being a fat and unwieldy man, he
was thrown down in the throng, and smothered.
In this reign a large party of Frenchmen again
landed on the Isle of Wight, with intent " to keep
their Christmas here ;" but they were forced to re-
tire to their ships with great loss. Subsequently to
this defeat, they made another hostile visit, demand-
ing a subsidy in the name of Richard II. and
Isabella, his queen. " They were answered, that
Richard was dead, and his queen sent back to
France, without the payment of any subsidy being
stipulated : but if the French had any desire to try
their prowess, they should not only be permitted to
land without molestation, but also be allowed six
hours to refresh themselves, after which the islan-
ders would meet them in the field." This invitation
the invaders prudently declined. In the reign of
Henry VI. Humphrey, the good Duke of Glou-
cester, succeeded to the lordship, which he appears
to have retained till the time of his death ; though,
two years previously to that event, Henry Beau-
champ, Duke of Warwick, was crowned King of
the isle of Wight, by patent from Henry VI. who
himself assisted at the ceremony, and placed the
lying on the right, a huge stump of a tree, which our boatmen
informed us had been dragged out of the water. He assured
us also, that the roots of oaks, and other trees, were often found
on these banks of mud; \vluch seems still to slrengthen the
opinion, that all this part of the coast, now covered with the
tide, had once been forest-land." It has also been observed,
that " a hard gravelly beach extends a great way across from
the isle, towards the coast of Hampshire, about midway from
the extremity of the channel, and corresponding with the place
called Leap, probably from the narrowness of I lie. pass." Here
then is supposed to be the isthmus along which the tin was ori-
ginally carried to the Isle of Wight.— Borlase, in his Natural
History of Cornwall, conjectures that the Iclis of Diodorus
must have been near the coast of Cornwall ; and Polwhole, in
his History of Devonshire, concludes, that the real Ictis was
the place now called the Isle of St. Nicholas, nearly opposite
the mouth of the Tamar.
9 B crown
742
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
crown on the duke's head. This singular event,
observes Sir Richard Worsley, has been hardly
noticed by our historians. Leland is the chief autho-
rity ; but his testimony is confirmed by a painting
of the duke in an ancient window of the collegiate
church at Warwick, in which he is represented with
an imperial crown on his head, and a sceptre before
him. On the decease of Duke Humphrey, the lord-
ship again reverted to the crown ; but was shortly
nfterwards in the possession of Richard Plantagenet,
Duke of York, father of Edward IV. In 1452,
the Isle of Wight was granted to Edmund, Duke
of Somerset, who had married the sister and co-
heiress of Henry, Duke of Warwick. This duke
was slain at the battle of St. Alban's, and his pos-
sessions descended to his son Henry, who was
beheaded by the Yorkists, after the battle of Hex-
liain. In 1466, Anthony de Widville, afterwards
Earl Rivers, had a grant of this lordship. This
nobleman was beheaded at Pontefract in 1483, to
promote the designs of Richard, Duke of Glocester.
His brother, Sir Edward Widville, was, in 1485,
made captain of the Isle of Wight ; and about three
years afterwards, to ingratiate himself in the king's
favour, he convened the inhabitants, and persuaded
them to undertake an expedition to France, in aid
of the Duke of Brittany, who was then in arms
against the French monarch. From the numbers
which flocked to his standard, he selected about
forty gentlemen, and 400 of the commonalty, and
embarked with them for Brittany in four vessels.
These auxiliaries were clothed in white coats, with
red crosses ; and, to make them appear the more
numerous, they were united to 1500 of the duke's
forces, arrayed in the same uniform. In a battle
fought at St. Alban's, however, Sir Edward, and
all the English, were slain, except one boy, who
reached home with the melancholy tidings. There
was scarcely a family in the isle who lost not a rela-
tion on tliis mournful occasion. To promote popu-
lation, an act was soon afterwards passed, prohi-
biting any of the inhabitants from holding lands,
farms, or tithes, above the annual rent of ten marks.
Since the death of Sir Edward, the lordship of the
Isle of Wight has continued in the crown ; but some
of the lands, annexed to the Castle at Carisbrooke,
are held by the governor jure itfficii. The fee-farm
of the isle, with the castle, and the manors of Swain-
s-ton, Brixton, Thorlcy, and Wellow, were, how-
ever, leased for life to Sir Reginald Bray, by Henry
VII. in 1491, subject to an annual payment to the
crown of 307 marks. From the time that Edward I.
purchased this lordship, its defence was generally
intrusted to a warden, captain, or governor. Richard
Worsley, Esq. ancestor to Sir R. Worsley, Bart.
of Appuldurcombe, was captain here in 1544, when
the French landed 2000 men. The enemy held a
council of war, in which it was proposed, to fortify
and keep possession of the isle; but this being
deemed impracticable, they began to plunder and
burn the villages. Suddenly attacked by the captain,
they were obliged to fly to their ships with the loss
of their general, and a number of men. Several
forts were soon afterwards constructed on the coast,
for the prevention of future descents; and the
islanders also provided a train of artillery at their
own expense. Fire-arms were likewise introduced;
and an armourer was settled in Carisbrooke Castle
to make harquebusses. and to keep them in order.
During the residence here of Henry, Earl of South-
ampton, who was appointed governor and captain
by James I. this isle became very flourishing. *
Early in the civil wars, the parliament obtained pos-
session of the Isle of Wight, by the removal of
Jerom, Earl of Portland, who was attached to the
cause of the ill-fated Charles ; and whose " extra-
ordinary vivacity," observes Clarendon, " crossed
their expectations." They, indeed, not only re-
moved, but committed him to prison, objecting
against him, " all the acts of good fellowship, all
the waste of powder, and all the waste of wine, in
the drinking of healths, and other acts of jollity,
which even he had been at in his government, from
the hour of his entering upon it." The principal
inhabitants petitioned parliament in his favour, and
afterwards signed a declaration to support the cause
of royalty ; but the popular voice was dissentient ;
and Moses Read, the mayor of Newport, represented
to the parliament, that the safety of the isle was
endangered, while the Countess of Portland, and
Colonel Brett, who had been appointed by the king,
were suffered to retain possession of Carisbrooke
Castle. " The parliament, in consequence of Reid's
representation, directed the captains of the ships in
the river to assist him in any measures he should
think necessary for securing the island. Read ac-
cordingly marched the Newport militia, with 400
naval auxiliaries, against the castle, where Brett
had not above twenty men ; many well-wishers to
him and the countess being deterred from assisting
them by the menaces of the populace, who now
threw off all respect for their superiors, llarby,
the curate of Newport, a man under peculiar obli-
gations to the Earl of Portland, distinguished him-
self in spiriting up the besiegers against his lady
and children ; assigning for a reason, her being a
* The great power which the captains of the Isle of Wight
had is illustrated by the following anecJote, quoted by Sir
Richard Worsley from the papers of Sir John Oglandcr, a de-
scendant from one of the most ancient families in this island.
" I have heard," observes Sir John, " and partly know it to be
true, that not only heretofore there was no lawyer nor attorney
in owre Island ; but in Sir George Carey's time (in the reign of
Elizabeth) an attorney coming in to settle in the island, was, by
his command, with a pound of candles hanging at his breech
lighted, with bells about his legs, hunted owte of the island:
insomuch that our ancestors lived here so quietly and securely,
being neither troubled to London nor Winchester, so they sel-
dom or never went owle of the island ; insomuch as when they
went to London, thinking it an East-India voyage, they always
made their wills, supposing no trouble like to travaile."
Papist ;
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
713
Papist; and exhorting. them, in the canting phrase-
ology of the times, to be valiant, as they were about
to fight the battle of the Lord. The castle had not
at that time three days' provision for its slender gar-
rison ; yet the countess, with the magnanimity of a
Roman matron, went to the platform with a match
in her hand, vowing she would fire the first cannon
herself, and defend the castle to the utmost extre-
mity, unless honourable terms were granted. After
some negociations, articles of capitulation were
agreed on, and the castle surrendered : these were,
that Colonel Brett, the gentlemen with him, and
their servants, who composed the garrison, should
be allowed the freedom of the island : but were re-
stricted from going to Portsmouth, which was then
held for the king by Goring. The countess was
to retain her lodgings in the castle, .until the con-
trary should be directed by parliament. An order
arrived soon afterwards, prescribing her removal
* The fallen monarch was conducted hilher after his un-
conditional surrender to Colonel Robert Hammond, at Titch-
field House. Hammond \vas then governor here ; anil Charles
presuming on his relationship to Dr. Henry Hammond, his
own chaplain, thought that he should be sale under the colo-
nel's protection, tilt he had an opportunity to make proper
terms of accommodation with his enemies. His expectations
were, however, deceived; for Hammond had yet a closer
connexion with theadrerse party than with the king's chap-
Jain ; as, by the interest of Cromwell, he had married the
daughter of the famous Hampdcn, and been promoted to the
government of the Isle of Wight. For some time he treated
his royal master with every attention, lodged him in Caris-
brooke Castle, not as a prisoner, but as a guest, and suffered
him to ride out for recreation, « hen and wherever he pleased.
This conduct was not agreeable to the designs of the ruling
powers ; and Hammond was ordered not to permit the attend-
ance on the kh;g, of any of the persons who had served him
at Oxford ; and also to prevent the king's chaplains from the
future exercise of their respective functions. The day suc-
ceeding the dismission of the king's servants, rendered his
own situation less equivocal ; he was deprived of the liberty of
ranging about the country, and confined within the walls of the
castle. Some degree of personal freedom was still permitted
him ; but this was afterwards abridged, through the attempts
made for his rescue ; and the king for a time suffered the vigour
of his mind to bend to the pressure of his fate, and gave way to
emotions of despondency. — At length, in 1648, the House of
Commons determined to revive their negociations with the cap-
tive monarch : a new treaty was proposed, and the town of
Newport was appointed as the place of deliberation. Here
the king was to enjoy the same state of freedom as when last
at Hampton Court ; and to be attended by servants of his own
appointment; after giving his royal word not to leave the isle
during the treaty, nor for twenty days after, without the ad-
vice of both houses of parliament. The sway of the parliament
was now, however, more nominal than real ; and, after nego-
ciations had been opened, and continued for upwards of two
months, the army, with Fairfax at their head, determined to
seize the king, notwithstanding the pledge that had been
given by (he House of Commons. Colonel Ewes was des-
patched to the Isle of Wight for this purpose ; and Hammond,
from whom some opposition was probably expected, was
ordered in the mean time to attend at head-quarters. On
the evening of the 29th of November, the king received
intimation, through a person in disguise, that the army meant
to seize on him that night. Somewhat alarmed, though doubt-
ful of the truth, he immediately required the attendance of the
from the isle within two days after notice given her ;
and she was then indebted to the humanity of the
seamen for the vessel which conveyed her and her
family to the coast of Hampshire." The other forts
in this isle were also seized; and, on the arrival of
Philip, Earl of Pembroke, whom the parliament
had appointed governor, he was respectfully re-
ceived by the inhabitants, who tendered him their
best services. This decisive step in favour of the
prevailing powers, prevented the occurrence of those
scenes of bloodshed which speedily desolated the
other parts of the kingdom ; the security which was
here enjoyed, induced many families to become resi-
dents ; and the rent of land increased about twenty-
five per cent, in consequence, but fell again soon
after the Restoration.— The flight of Charles I. from
Hampton Court, and the subsequent events of his
melancholy life, have a memorable connexion with
this isle ; * but, since the decapitation of that ill-
fated
Duke of Richmond, the Earl of Lindsay, and Colonel Cooke,
to whom he communicated the information he had received.
1 lie colonel was then sent to make inquiry of Major Rolfe,
whom Hammond had left as deputy governor, whether any
design of that nature was entertained. Rolfe denied all know--
ledge of such an intent ; saying, " You may assure the king
from me, that he may rest quietly this night ; for on my life
he shall have no disturbance this night." The colonel remark-
ing that he had laid great emphasis on the words this night,
urged him to declare whether there was any intention of seizing
the king at all. After some pause, he answered, that " it wai
impossible for him to know the purposes of the army at so
great a distance, but that as yet, he had received no such
orders." After some further conversation on the same subject,
the colonel returned to inform the king ; and was again sent
back to inquire into the truth of a report which Charles had
just heard, of a great number of troops having landed on the
island that evening. — During the short interval of the colonel's
second absence, the king was informed, that 2000 foot soldiers
were drawn up round Carisbrooke Castle. At this he seemed
greatly agitated; exclaiming, "Surely there must be some
very extraordinary business in hand, that can cause such a
body of men to be so secretly landed, and in so bitter a night
as this, exposed to the extremity of the weather;" the wind
then blowing very high, and the rain falling very fast. Ex-
pressing, also, an anxious desire for further information,
Colonel Cooke again offered his services ; and the night being
extremely dark, with great difficulty found his way to the
castle; and having rode round it without meeting any troops,
he took shelter under the gateway, to cover himself from the
violence of the rain. Here he endeavoured to obtain informa-
tion from the soldiers, but without success ; when recollecting
that a Captain Bowreman, with whom he was well acquainted,
was in the garrison, he desired to speak with him. After some
time, he was invited in, and was surprised at the sight of above
a dozen officers of the army, most of whom he knew. After
mutual salutations, he desired to speak with the governor in
private; but was plainly told by Captain Bowreman, " that he
was no better than a prisoner in his own garrison, being threat-
ened with immediate death, if he so much as whispered to any
of his servants." Some other circumstances increased the
colonel's suspicion that the seizure of the king was actually
intended, and he again departed for Newport.— On his arrival,
he found that guards had been placed round the king's lodgings,
and even at every avenue, not excepting the windows, and the
chamber-door ; so that the kins? was greatly incommoded by
the smoke of their matches. The centinels, however, whose
matches proved most offensive, were removed on application
to
744
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
fated sovereign, no transaction of distinguished his-
torical importance has been recorded in its annals.
Its defence from foreign invasion is now intrusted
to a proper distribution of the regular force, to its
militia, and, during the late war, to its numerous
volunteers ; the latter alone amounting to 3500 ;
several hundred of whom were sea fencibles.
Through the middle of the island, in the longest
direction, extends a range of high hills, affording
excellent pasturage for sheep, and commanding
extensive views, with the ocean on the south side,
and on the north, the beautiful coasts of Hampshire.
The face of the country is much diversified ; hill
and dale, the swelling promontory and the lowly
glen, appearing in quick succession to animate, and
give interest to the prospects. The land round the
coast is, in some parts, very high, particularly on
the south, or back of the island, as it is generally
termed : here the cliffs are very steep, and vast
fragments of rock, which the waves have under-
mined, lie scattered along the shore. On the
northern side, the ground slopes to the water in
easy declivities, excepting towards the Needles, or
western point, where the rocks are bare, broken, and
precipitous. The height of the cliffs, of which the
Needles form the extreme point, is, in some places,
600 feet above the level of the sea, and when viewed
from the distance of about a quarter of a mile, have
a most sublime and stupendous appearance. " These
cliffs are frequented by immense numbers of marine
birds ; as puffins, razor-bills, willcocks, gulls, cor-
morants, Cornish-choughs, daws, starlings, and
wild pigeons ; some of which come, at stated times,
to lay their eggs and breed, while others remain
there all the year. The cliffs are in some places
to Major Rolfe, and the captain of the guard. The former
accounted for the increased number of troops round the king,
by observing, that the two companies had been drawn out
so kite, that quarters could not be provided for them that night ;
and he had therefore thought of the expedient of having the
guards doubled. — Such a combination of events left little doubt
on the m ml of Charles, of the intention of his foes ; and he
was strongly urged to attempt his escape while it yet was prac-
ticable, both by the Duke ot Richmond, and llie Earl of Lind-
say : and the former, to show the possibility of the measure,
parsed twice through all the guard-:, disguised in a cloak, and
accompanied by Colonel Cooke. The king, however, strongly
objected ; but on the lords resuming their persuasions, sud-
denly commanded the colonel to give him his advice, which
the latter immediately suggested in these words : " Suppose 1
should not only tell your majesty, that the army mean suddenly
to seize upon your person, but, by concurring circumstances,
should fully convince you of it : supposing also, that, beside
tile pa:.s-word, I have horses ready at hand, a vessel attending,
and hourly expecting me at Cowes, myself both ready and de-
sirous of attending your majesty, and the darkness of the night,
as it were, suiled to the purpose, so that I can foresee no visible
difficulty in the thing : the only remaining question is, what will
your majesty resolve to do f" After a short pause the king return-
ed this positive answer : " They have promised me, and I have
promised them : I will not break first."— This reply left very
few hopes of shaking the king's determination ; but the Earl of
Lindsay ;nul the colonel still continued t'> press him to escape :
heat length ordered them to retire to rest, and went himself to
bed, the Duke of Richmond remaining in waiting. About
perpendicular ; in others, they project and hang
over, in a tremendous manner : the several strata
form many shelves ; these serve as lodgements for
the birds, where they sit in thick rows, and discover
themselves by their motions and flight, though not
individually visible. Here are many caverns and
deep chasms that seem to enter a great way into
the rocks ; and in many places, the issuing of springs
forms small cascades of rippling water down to the
se*a. The country people take the birds that har-
bour in these rocks, by the perilous experiment of
descending by ropes fixed to iron crows, driven into
the ground : thus suspended, they with sticks beat
down the birds as they fly out of their holes. A
dozen birds generally yield one pound weight of
soft feathers, for which the merchants give eight-
pence ; the carcases are bought by the fishermen, at
sixpence per dozen, for the purpose of baiting their
crab-pots." The rocks called the Needles obtained
their name from a lofty pointed one, resembling a
needle in shape, which had been disjointed, with
the others, from the main land, by the force of the
waves. This was 180 feet high above low-water
mark ; but about sixty years ago, its base having
been undermined by the waves, it sunk one stormy
night into tlfe ocean, with a horrible crash, the shock
of which is said to have been felt as far as South-
ampton. All the higher parts of the isle are com-
posed of an immense mass of calcareous matter,
incumbent on schistus, which runs under the whole
isle, and appears at low- water mark, on the coast
near Mottison. The limestone is burnt for manure ;
and in the pits where it is dug for that purpose, are
found numerous echini, sharks' teeth, and ammonias.
These fossils are particularly abundant in the range
day-break, the king heard a great knocking at his outer door ;
and sending the duke to learn the cause, was informed, that
several officers from the army were desirous of speaking with
him. He immediately gave orders for their admission ; when
rushing into the bed-chamber before the king could rise from
his bed, they abruptly told him, they had orders for his removal.
He inquired, "Whither.?" and was answered, " To the Cas-
tle." " The Castle," said the king, on receiving a similar
answer to a second question, " is no castle ;" but adding, that
he was well enough prepared for any castle ; they at length
named Hurst Castle, "Indeed," said the sovereign, "you
could not well have named a worse." Thus was the king's
confidence betrayed; and the short-lived freedom which he
had enjoyed at Newport, proved the immediate prelude to
captivity and death. — The Duke of Richmond, observing the
anxietv of the officers for the immediate removal of the king,
ordered his breakfast to be hastened ; y. t, before he was well
re^ady, the horses arrived ; and Charles was hurried away.
The duke accompanied him for about two miles; but was then
told, that he ' must go no further !' on which, he took a sad
farewell of the king, and returned to the lodgings of the Earl of
Lindsay and Colonel Cooke who were now first informed of
the king's removal. They then all left the island, accompanied
by the Earl and Countess of Southampton, and landing near
Titchfield, the seat of the earl, proceeded to his house, where,
on the following morning, they drew up a narrative of the
events in which they had been so lately engaged ; and the
original manuscript was afterwards deposited in the British
Museum. Charles was beheaded in about seven weeks after
the occurrence of the events here related.
of
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
745
of cliffs which forms the southern shore ; with bivalve
and turkinated shells of various descriptions : the
cornua ammonis are of all sizes, from one inch, to
a foot and a half in diameter. A stratum of co»J
discovers itself at the foot of Bimbridge Cliff, and
runs through the southern parts of the isle, appear-
ing again at Warden Ledge, in Freshwater parish.
On the north side of this stratum lies a vein of white
sand, and another of fuller's earth ; and on the side
is another of red ochre. Free-stones, of several
descriptions, are found here ; but none of superior
quality. Red and yellow ochres are particularly
observable in Alum Bay, to the north of the Needles,
where their mingled strata variegate the cliffs. In
this bay native alum is found in considerable quan-
tities. Here also, and at Freshwater, are immense
beds of micacious or silvery sand, great quantities
of which are annually shaped off for the glass and
chitia manufactories of London, Bristol, Worcester,
&c. Small ma'sscs of native sulphur are frequently
picked up on different parts of the shore ; and cop-
peras stones are so abundant on the south coast, that
several small vessels are employed in freighting them
to London. Pipe-clay is very plentiful in different
pans of the isle. The soils are very various ; but
the prevailing kind is strong, loamy earth, well
adapted for agricultural purposes. The quantity
of grain annually raised here, is computed to amount
to seven or eight times the quantity necessary for
all the inhabitants. The farms vary in size ; their
general rental being from 100/. to 400/. per annum,
with a few at 500/. : the average rent per acre is about
17s. Wheat, barley, oats, beans, and peas ; turnips,
clover, trefoil, vetches, rye-grass, and potatoes, are
grown here. In the eastern and central parts, the
course is wheat, barley, clover, and wheat ; but on
the stiff clays, the latter is sown only once in four
years : in the southern part, wheat, fallow, and
.turnips, barley, and clover; in the western part,
turnips, barley, clover, rye-grass, and wheat. The
medium produce of wheat, throughout the isle, is
about twenty - one bushels per acre ; that of
beans and peas, about twenty-eight bushels. The
potatoes and turnips are very productive. The
meadow lands are extremely rich, and produce from
one to three tons of fine hay per acre. The manures
are lime, marl, and the produce of the farm-yard.
The elevated tracts are mostly appropriated to the
depasturing of sheep ; the number annually shorn
is about 40,000 ; the wool is extremely fine, and in
much repute. The general breed is the Dorset-
shire : about 5000 lambs are sold annually. The
cows are principally of the Devonshire and the
Aldmiey breed. The butter is very good ; but the
cheese, which is made ot 'skim-milk, bears the name
of Isle of Wight Rock. The calves are remark-
ably fine. The horses are in general large ; and as
the farmers value themselves on the strength and
beauty of their teams, great pains are taken to im-
prove them. The hogs are large and tall, and make
excellent bacon. The agriculture of the island is,
VOL. iv. — NO. 194.
altogether, in a very improving state. The salu-
brity of the climate may he estimated by the pro-
fusion of genial myrtles, and by the flourishing state
of a vine-plantation in the grounds of Sir R. Wors-
ley, at Appuldurcombe. The central parts of the
isle are subject to frequent rains; the high range
of hills proving a constant source of attraction to
the vapours, and in the winter months, involving
all beneath them in gloom and humidity. Innu-
merable plants and flowers grow here in wild lux-
uriance : among them are the op/irys apifera, or
bee-orchis ; the digitally or fox-glove ; and the
ciithmnm murilimum, or rock-samphire. . The con-
tiguity of the Portsmouth, and other yards for
ship-building, has operated to deprive the island of
much of its timber ; and even Parkhurst, or Caris-
brooke Forest, which includes about 3000 acres of
good land, is almost destitute of trees of any value.
The woods of Swainston are of considerable extent ;
and those of Wooten and Quarr cover a superficies
of nearly 1100 acres : the oak and the elm are the
most flourishing. Game is plentiful. Foxes, badgers,
and polecats, are unknown in the island ; but
vipers exist in great plenty, and are caught in large
numbers for medicinal purposes. Domestic fowlsj
and poultry, are bred here in considerable quanti-
ties, for the supply of the outward-bound shipping.
Great variety of fish is found on the coast, and in
abundance : those of the crustaccous kind are par-
ticularly numerous on the southern shores. The
lobsters and crabs are of uncommon size, and ex-
tremely fine. The latter are so abundant on a par-
ticular part of the coast, that a neighbouring village
Las obtained the name of Crab-Niton, from the
circumstance. The Isle of Wight cockles are much
celebrated ; the sand-eel is very plentiful ; and the
cuttle-fish is occasionally obtained. — The trade of
the island is flourishing ; the harbour of Cowes
being particularly convenient. The chief imports
are coals, timber, deals, iron, wine, hemp, and
fruits : the principal exports are wheat, flour, bar-
ley, malt, and salt. The chief manufactures are
those of starch, and salt ; and the making of wool-
lens, sacks, &c. has been carried to some extent in
the House of Industry, near Newport, of late years.
— Several chalybeate springs have been found in
different parts of the island ; one of them, at Black
Gang, under Chale Cliff, is very strong : about half
a mile from this, at Pitland, is a spring, impreg-
nated with sulphur ; and, at Shanklin, is a spring
whose waters are slightly impregnated with alum.
The springs of clear water are very numerous, and,
in general, pure and transparent, from the natural
percolation which (hey undergo through (he lime-
stone strata. — The chief rivers are the Medina, the
Yar, and the Wooten. There are numerous smaller
streams ; and various creeks and bays run up from
tiie sea.
The town of Newport, formerly Medina, 17 miles
S.S.E. from Southampton, is situated nearly in the
centre, and may be considered as the metropolis of
9 c the
740
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
the island. Its more favourable situation for com-
mercial purposes, than that of Carisbrooke, appears
to have occasioned the decay of the latter town, and
to have been the rise of this. Its first charter was
granted by Richard de Redvers, second Earl of
Devon, in the reign of Henry II. ; and, in a second
and more important charter, granted by the Countess
Isabella de Fortihus, it is styled the New Borough of
Medina, and its burgesses are invested with all the
market tolls, and " all other customs whence free
burgesses can have liberty," ,in as full and ample a
manner as the countess herself enjoyed them. Vari-
ous other privileges accompanied the grant ; for
which a yearly rent of eighteen marks of silver was
reserved to the countess, and two marks annually to
the prior and monks of Carisbrooke, to whom the
tolls, &c. of the market of that town belonged. This
charter was confirmed by Edward III. and various
succeeding sovereigns, to the time of Elizabeth,
whose immediate predecessor, Henry VI. confirmed
also to the burgesses, the petty customs within all
ports and creeks of the island, which had been be-
stowed on them by Henry VII. The first charter
of incorporation was granted by James I. ; but that
under which the town is now governed was given
by Charles II. The government is vested in a
mayor, recorder, ten aldermen, and twelve bur-
gesses. The earliest return to parliament was in
1294, but no subsequent return was made till 1584.
The right of election is vested in the corporation. —
The situation of Newport is high and pleasant : on
the eastern side it is watered by the chief branch of
the Medina river, and on the west, by a small stream
which rises at Rayner's Grove, about three miles
distant, and falls into the former at the Quay, where
the Medina becomes navigable. The houses are
disposed into five parallel streets, running east and
west, and crossed by three others at right angles.
The buildings, mostly of brick, are, some of them,
handsome. The church is a chapel of ease to
Carisbrooke, but the inhabitants appear to have
gradually obtained a power of choosing their own
ministers. This fabric, standing in the centre of
one of the squares, is spacious, but low, and con-
sists of three aisles, of equal length, separated from
each other by pointed arches : at the west end is
an embattled tower. It is supposed to have been
founded about the time of Henry II. but the archi-
tecture is of different periods. From the various
mechanical instruments sculptured on the south
wall, as hammers, shears, &c. it is probable that
part of the expenses of building was defrayed by a
subscription of the mechanics of the town. The
pulpit is of wainscot, ornamented with figures curi-
ously carved on the pannels, in alto-relievo, repre-
senting the Cardinal Virtues and the Liberal Arts.
The principal monument displays a recumbent statue
of Sir Edward Horsey, Knt. who was captain of
this island in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Amongst
the other persons buried in this fabric, was the
Princess Elizabeth, second daughter of Charles I.
who died a prisoner, and, it is said, of a broken
heart, in Carisbrooke Castle, at the age of fifteen.
The leaden coffin, including her remains, was dis-
covered in a vault under the chancel, in October,
1793 : on it is the following inscription in three
lines : ELIZABETH 2d DAUGHTER OF Ye LATE KING
CHARLES, DECEB. SEPT. 8. MDCL. A burial-ground
was first appropriated to this church in the reign
of Queen Elizabeth, in consequence of a plague,
in which the mortality was so great, that the church-
yard of Carisbrooke was not sufficiently capacious
for the interment of the dead. — The Catholics,
Methodists, Arminians, Baptists, and Quakers, have
meeting-houses in this town. — In the town-hall,
situated over the largest of the market-places, be-
sides the meetings of the corporation, &c. is held the
Knighten Court, or Curia Militum, under the pre-
sidency of the governor's steward, or his deputy.
Of this court, instituted in the feudal times, the
original judges were such as held a knight's fee, or
part of a fee, in capile, from the proprietor of the
lordship : the present judges are freeholders, hold-
ing of Carisbrooke Castle : these are empowered to
decide without the intervention of a jury, and gene-
rally sit in rotation, or as convenience dictates, three
or more at a time. The court, which is held every
Monday three weeks, except that happens to be a
holiday, when the meeting is postponed for three
weeks longer, has jurisdiction over every part 'of
the island, excepting the borough of Newport : it
holds pleas of all actions of debt and trespass under
the value of 40s. and upon replevins granted by the
steward, or his deputy : the proceedings are of the
same nature as those in our courts of equity, and
are carried on by attorcies admitted by the court.
The actions for debt are tried by proof of plaintiff*
or defendant ; or the defendant's wager of law with
two hands, if he prays it ; and actions oi' trespass
are determined by proof only. — The markets of
Newport are plentifully supplied with corn, and all
sorts of provision, especially poultry and butter;
yet the last is very dear. Fish are scarce, and are
chiefly brought from Southampton, liere is a free
grammar-school, for a limited number of boys,
erected by subscription in 1619, and afterwards
endowed with lands tor the support of a master;
but it has now almost dwindled to a sinecure. In
the school-room the negociations between Charles I.
and the parliamentary commissioners were dis-
cussed. A school, tor the clothing and instructing
of girls ; and two Sunday schools, have also been
established here. The population of Newport, in
1801, was 3585 ; and, in 1811, it was 3855. Many
of the working classes are employed in the manu-
facture of starch, and in the making of cracknells,
biscuits, &c. for ttie use of the shipping. Here is a
neat theatre ; and assemblies ;tre held at stated times,
in two elegant rooms. A 1'liilesophicnl Society
was established here a few ycar.s ago. The streets
have been regularly paved. In digging stone in
the beast market for that purpose, a large reser-
voir
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
717
voir was discovered, which appeared to have been
formed for supplying the town with wafer for
domestic use ; an article in which, from its elevated
situation, it is extremely deficient. The chief part
of what is now used is brought in water-carts from
Carisbrooke, and retailed from house to house.
Several corn-mills are turned by the streams in the
vicinity of the town.
The House of Industry, which originated in 1770,
from a meeting of the principal inhabitants of the
isle, assembled for the purpose of discussing the
best mode of providing relief for the poor, is about
a mile north from the town. As it was proposed to
consolidate the rates of the different parishes, and
to erect a building for the general reception of the
poor, sufficiently large for all the purposes of resi-
dence, education, and ein ploy merit, application was
made to parliament for the necessary powers ; and
the design having been approved, his majesty was
empowered to grunt a lease of eighty acres of land
in his forest of Parkhurst, for the term of 999 years,
at the reserved annual rent of 8/. 17s. 9c/. and re-
newable at a fine certain. On this ground the
House of Industry was immediately begun. It con-
sists of several ranges of building, of sufficient mag-
nitude for the reception and employment of nearly
700 people ; connected with courts, a garden, &c.
The principal building is 300 feet in length, and
twenty-seven in breadth, with windows on both
sides to promote the free circulation of air ; in this
is a dining-hall, 118 feet long, a store-room, a com-
mittee-room, and many other apartments. About
200 feet from the west end, another building ranges
southward, to an extent of 170 feet : in this, on the
ground floor, are the school-rooms, kitchen, scul-
lery, bake-house, &c. and above them are various
apartments, as lying-in rooms, sick wards, and twenty
separate chambers, for married poor. At the end
of this, and parallel with the main building, is
another range, containing extensive workshops Cor
the mechanics and manufacturers. Besides these,
and within the enclosure, is a chapel, and various
offices ; with a pest-house for those afflicted with
contagious disorders, &c. — The regulations and bye-
laws by which this establishment is governed, are
excellently calculated to further the advancement of
morals and of industry. The principal branches of
manufacture are sacks for corn and flour ; clothing,
as kerseys, stockings, &c. dowlas sheeting ; mops,
shoes, 8cc. Relief is also aiFurded to the families of
the indigent, who, from local circumstances, do not
require removal from their own abodes. A few
years since, an allowance of three guineas was voted
to every servant in husbandry, day-labourer, and
journeyman mechanic, on low wages, w,ho should
marry the daughter of a cottager, or labourer. This
bounty is given with reference to the prevention of
illicit intercourse ; consequently, those who are
known to htive had any child born out of wedlock,
are excluded from receiving it. — The management
iof this concern is vested in a corporation, styled
"the Guardians of the Poor within the Isle of
Wight." — At a short distance south-west from the
house of industry, are the Parkhurst Barracks, and
Military Hospital ; which contain accommodation,
for upwards of 3000 soldiers.
Carisbrooke Castle, about one mile south-west
from Newport, is the most ancient and important
fortress in the island. It stands on a high and com-
manding situation, on a conical eminence, rising
above the village of Carisbrooke, and occupying
about twenty acres of ground. Some authors have
attributed it to the Britons ; and Lluyd says, there
was a city here called Caer-broc; words signifying
the city or town of yew-trees. Others suppose its
origin to be Roman. The earliest historical notice,
however, of Carisbrooke, occurs in the Saxon annals,
under the year 530, when the castle was besieged
and taken by Cerdic, who bestowed the government
of the isle on his nephews, Stuff and Withgar ; the
latter of whom is said to have rebuilt the castle.
Whatever was the ancient state of this fortress, it
must have been greatly enlarged between the decease
of King Edward, and the period of the Domesday
Survey. Various alterations were made in subse-
quent reigns ; and, in the time of Elizabeth, the
whole of the original works was surrounded by an
extensive fortification, faced with stone, encompassed
by a deep moat, and defended by five bastions. The
walls of the Norman fortress, including the keep,
which is probably more ancient, enclose about an
acre and a half of ground, approaching in form to
a rectangular parallelogram, with the angles round-
ed. These angles seem to have been rebuilt when
the works were enlarged by Elizabeth, as that to the
south-east has the date 1(301. The keep occupies
the summit of an artificial mount, between fifty and
sixty feet high, situated near the north-east angle of
the walls : this, as well as the walls, was defended
by a surrounding foss. The form ot the keep is an
irregular polygon, about sixty feet broad in its widest
part, with walls of great strength and thickness :
some of the angles are strengthened by buttresses of
hewn stone, evidently more modern than the other
parts. A flight of seventy-two steps leads up the
mount to the entrance, which was anciently defend-
ed by a strong double gate and portcullis. On the
left, within the entrance, is a larger apartment, in
which is a well, now partly filled up as dangerous,
said to have been 300 feet deep. The upper apart-
ments are wholly destroyed : though a small de-
cayed staircase yet remains, which led to the plat-
form on the summit of the kei-p, from the ruined
walls of which, is a very extensive and beautiful
prospect, Including great part of the island, with
parts of the New Forest, and the Portsdown Sliils.
On this spot the royal flag is displayed on days of
public rejoicing, or when the governor resides at
the castle. At the bottom of the innuut was a
sally-port, which appears to have been defended by
a bastion, now destroyed. — The principal of the
Norman works occupy the north-western angle of
the
748
THE ISLE OP WIGHT.
the area ; io which, Ihe entrance is on the west
side, by a handsome machicolated gate, with grooves
for a portcullis, flunked by two round towers. This
is supposed to have been built by Lord Widville, in
the time of Edward IV. his arms being carved on
a stone near the top, with the rose, the budge of
the house of York, on each side. This leads (o the
more ancient entrance ; the old gate of which, with
its wicket of lattice-work, made of oak, and covered
with bars of iron, still remains, and opens into the
inner area ; on entering which, the lirst objects that
meet the eye on the right, are the ruins of a guard-
house, and the chapel of St. Nicholas. The latter
was built in the year 1738, on the site of a more
ancient chapel, which stood here at the period of
the Domesday Survey. In this structure the mayor
and high constables of Newport are annually sworn
into office. On the opposite and north side, are the
ruins of the buildings occupied by Charles I. during
his imprisonment in this castle : a small room, said
to have been his bed-chamber, is still shown. Fur-
ther on, extending from the north wall, towards the
middle of the area, are the barracks, and governor's
house. Among the arms on different parts of the
walls, are those of William Fitz-Osborne ; Isabella
cle Fortibus ; Montacute, Earl of Salisbury ; and
Sir George Carey. The governor's lodgings in-
clude several good apartments, with vaulted ceil-
ings.— At the south-west corner of the area is a
platform for cannon, made in the reign of Elizabeth :
and near the centre of the south wall are the remains
of a watch-tower. The ruins of another tower,
called Montjoy's, though unquestionably part of the
Norman fortress, stand at the south-east angle of
the area ; the walls are in some places eighteen feet
thick, and the top may yet be ascended by a flight
of decayed steps. On the east side are the remains
of two other watch-towers, and some buildings for-
merly used as store-houses, &c. but now occupied
as offices for the governor's household. Near the
centre of the area, under a small building, is a well,
* The lustre'reflected oil this fortress, from its having been
the scene of the imprisonment of Charles 1. has already been
noticed ; but there are \et some circumstances which require
detail. Amongst the books which served for the amusement
of his lonesome hours, were Hooker's Ecclesiastical Polity,
Tasso's Jerusalem, and Spencer's Fairie Queen. These, with
the Sacred Scriptures, and some works on religious subjects,
formed nearly the whole of his library. Stated hours were set
apart for devotion and writing ; and his Suspiria Regalia, the
manuscript of which was found among his books, is thought to
have been composed during his captivity. His mornings, in
the early part of his confinement, were generally employed in
walking on the ramparts ; and many persons obtained access to
him at these times, under pretence of being touched for the
king's evil. The second attempt made to effect his rescue,
seems to have failed through the king's own inadvertency. A
correspondence, it appears, had been secretly commenced with
some gentlemen of the island, and it was determined that
Charles should let himself down by a cord from his chamber-
window ; and again from the top of the ramparts ; under which
a swift horse, with a guide, was to be placed in readiness, to
200 feet deep, supplying a very pure water for the
use of the castle. The water is raised by means of
a tread-wheel, fifteen feet in diameter, worked by
an ass. One of these animals was promoted to the
office in the year 1798, on the death of one of his
predecessors, that had performed the same service
twenty-six years. Another died in 1771, having
patiently executed the duties of his station during
the long period of forty-five years. The late Duke
of Gloucester is said to have left a permanent pro-
vision of a penny loaf a day for the ass thus em-
ployed. When this well is shown to strangers, a
curious experiment is generally made, by letting
down a lighted lamp, which, in descending, occa-
sions a strong sound, from the resistance of the
air, like a hollow wind ; and, as the lamp rests
upon the surface of the water, the walling of the
well may be distinctly seen. — The moat surround-
ing the castle is crossed by a bridge, leading to
the gate, which opens into the area ; over it is a
shield, with the date 1598, and the initials E. R.
In the eastern part of this area, is the Place* of
Arms, a large open piece of ground, surrounded
by a redoubt, or rampart, of considerable height :
this was originally set apart for the purpose of train-
ing and exercising soldiers. The expense of the
works raised in the time of Elizabeth, was partly
defrayed by a subscription made by the inhabitants :
those who could not afford money, are said to have
contributed labour, so that the whole of the outer
foss was excavated without any public charge. —
This castle appears to have been the residence of
the lords of the island from the very earliest period ;
and since it became the property of the crown, it has
been the constant seat of the captains and governors.
Isabella de Fortibus resided here in great state and
dignity ; and her charter to Newport is dated from
this place. Here also the will of Philippa, Duchess
of York, who died in the ninth of Henry VI. was
opened ; in which she styles herself Lady of the
Isle of Wight.*
The
convey him to a vessel purposely stationed at the sea-side. The
chief difficulty in the scheme, was the narrow space between
the bars ; but Charles affirmed that he had tried the passage, and
did not doubi hut that it was sufficiently large. The prepara-
tions were therefore completed ; the hour of enterprise was
come, the concerted signal was given, and Charles attempted
to force himself through the window ; but though he found an
easy passage for his head, he stuck fast in endeavouring to pro-
trude liis neck and shoulders, and for some time he could neither
advance nor retreat. His groans were heard by his friends below ;
but nothing could bedoneto relieve him: at length, by repeated
efforts, he forced himself back, and immediately placed a candle
in the window, as an intimation that the design was frustrated. —
As this attempt was not discovered at the time, it was again
resolved to have recourse to the same means ; and files and
aquafortis were conveyed to the king from London, for the
purpose of removing the impediments that had before obstruct-
ed his escape. Some intelligence had, however, been received
by Hammond, which occasioned a more strict degree of watch-
fulness ; and Major Rolfe, by pretending to be in the king's
interest, obtained the confidence of some of the persons con-
cerned
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
749
The village of Carisbrooko, pleasantly situated
en the banks of a rivulet, at the bottom of the
castle hill, retains few other vestiges of its former
consequence, as a market-town, and the capital of
the island, than what are displayed in its church.
This structure, occupying the site of a more ancient
edifice, of Saxon origin, was built by William
Fitz-Osborne, and given by him, with several others,
to the abbey of Lyra, in Normandy, of which he was
also the founder. It consists only of a body and
south aisle, with a handsome embattled tower ; the
north aisle and chancel having long been destroyed.
Near the altar is part of a monumental stone, rudely
carved, with the figure of the head and upper part
of the body of an ecclesiastic, with a book and
pascal staff ; supposed to represent one of the
priors of Carisbrooke. Against the north wall is
a monument of the time of Henry VII. in memory
pf the lady of Sir Nicholas Wadham, who was
captain of this island in that reign : the lady is re-
presented kneeling at a desk, in the attitude of
prayer ; at the back of the tomb are six small
figures, represented as cripples, in allusion to the
charity of the deceased. In the body of the church
is a wooden tablet, in memory of Captain William
Keeling, who is represented sitting on the deck of
a ship, with a crown of glory suspended over him :
Fides is written on the sail ; on the compass, rei'bum
Dei; and on the anchor, Spes. The inscription
below the ship, which informs us, that he died in
1619, having been groom of the chamber to James I.
and general for the Honourable East India Adven-
turers, concludes as follows : —
Fortie and two years in this vessel fraile,
On the rough Seas of Life, did Keeling sail ;
A merchant fortunate, a Captain bould,
A courtier gracious, yet, alas, not old.
Sucli wealth, experience, honour, and high praise, >
Few winne in twice so manie years or dales.
But what the world admired he deemed but drosse
For Christ ; without Christ all his gains but losse :
For him and his dear love, with merrie cheere,
To the Holy Land his last course he did steere :
Faith served for sails ; the Sacred IVorA for card ;
Hope was his anchor ; Glory his reward :
And thus with gales of Grace by happy venter,
Through Straits of Death, Heav'ns Harbor he did enter.
Carisbrooke Priory, which stood near the church,
was also founded by William Fitz-Osborne, and
was equally appropriated to the abbey of Lyra,
arid became a cell of Benedictines to that foun-
dation. Edward I. granted it to the abbey of
Mont-grace, in Yorkshire ; but Henry IV. restored
cerned, and, of course, was made acquainted with the plan.
The night was, however, fixed ; and Charles was getting through
the window, when perceiving more persons beneath it than he
expected, he drew back, and retired to bed. Soon afterwards
the governor entered the chamber; and Charles found that the
scheme had miscarried. The gentlemen who had been con-
cerned, escaped with much difficulty ; and Ch-arles himself
appears to have been in great danger, as Major Rolfe exhi-
bited a charged pistol, declaring that he had resolved to shoot
TOL. IV. — NO. 194. 1
it to the monks of Lyra. In the reign of Henry V.
it was again seized, with the other alien priories, and
granted to the abbey of Sheen, in Surrey, to which
it continued annexed till the general Dissolution.
Few vestiges of the monastic buildings remain. —
Gatcombe House, formerly the seat of the younger
branches of (he Worsley family, is beautifully situ-
ated on the declivity of a hill, about two miles
southward from Carisbrooke Castle. In Gatcombe
Church, is an ancient and curious effigies of a
knight carved in oak, supposed to represent the
founder. — The manor of Godshill was anciently part
of the lands of the abbey of Lyra, and its church
was one of the six given to that house by William
Fitz-Osborne. It now belongs to Sir Richard
Worsley. The church, an ancient building, in the
form of a cross, occupying the summit of an emi-
nence, commands some fine prospects. Here are
various monuments of the Worsleys, and other
families.
Appuldurcombe, the principal seat of the Worsley
family, is about one mile south-east from Godshill.
Its name is derived from the British words, Y pwll
y disr y czcnt ; signifying the pool of water in the
hollow or recess of a hill. The manor was anciently
part of the possessions of the abbey of Montsbury,
in Normandy ; and, after passing through several
families, became the property of Sir James Wors-
ley, of Worsley Hall, in Lancashire, by marriage
with Anne, daughter of Sir John Leigh, of More,
in Derbyshire, from whom it has descended to the
present owner. The Worsleys trace their descent
to Sir Elias de Workesley, who attended Robert,
Duke of Normandy, in his expedition to the Holy
Land, and died, and was interred in the Isle of
Rhodes. — A priory, founded here in the Norman
times,, was given to the abbey of Montsbury, by
Richard de Redvers, Earl of Devon. Henry IV.
granted it to the Nuns without Aldgate, in London,
who afterwards obtained a grant of all its lands,
including Appuldurcombe, Sandford, and Week,
from the above abbey. The old priory house was
taken down in the beginning of the last century by
Sir Robert Worsley, who, in 1710, began the pre-
spnt mansion at a short distance from the old priory.
The situation of this house is extremely fine : it
stands in a spacious park, in the midst of an amphi-
theatre of hills, commanding various extensive and
grand prospects : the slope which forms the back
ground, is ornamented with beeches of great size in-
terspersed with large and venerable oaks. The man-
sion is built with freestone, and, from its magnitude
the king with it as he descended from the window. The seizure
of Charles at Newport has been already stated : on his way to
the sea-side he met Sir E. Worsley, one of the gentlemen who
had endeavoured to aid his escape, and presented him with his
watch, as a token of his remembrance and gratitude. Thi»
watch is still preserved in the family: it is of silver, large and
clumsy in its form, but the case neatly ornamented with fillagree.
The movements are of very ordinary workmanship, and the
spring is wound up with catgut.
9 D
750
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
and situation, assumes an air of considerable gran-
deur. It has four fronts, of the Corinthian order ;
with projecting1 buildings advancing from each front,
and finished with pilasters and pediments of Port-
land stone : the principal entrance is on the east
side The interior is superbly decorated with sculp-
tures, paintings, and drawings ; most of which were
collected by Sir Richard Worsley, in a tour through
Italy, Spain, Greece, Egypt, Asia Minor, and Tar-
tary, during the years 1785, 1786, and 1787. The
collection was made at'a vast expense ; Sir Richard
having freighted a ship for himself and suite, and
engaged some excellent artists to accompany him.
The marbles and paintings are principally arranged
in the entrance hall, and in the apartments on the
same floor : most of the drawings are preserved in
port-folios. The hall, which is fifty-four feet long,
and twenty-four broad, is decorated with eight
beautiful Ionic columns, of a composition resembling
porphyry. Here many of the sculptures are dis-
played, intermixed with paintings, the judicious
arrangement oi' which exhibits great taste. Amongst •
the marbles is a beautiful group of Bacchus, and
his mythological favourite Acratus, winged as
a genius ; a Cupid, found under the Colonna at
Rome, and supposed to be an antique copy of the
bronze obtained by a stratagem from Praxiteles, by
Lais ; Asclepias, the Priestess of Diana, with a
curious inscription on the plinth, demonstrative of
her nature and office ; Hercules Ebrius, found in
Egypt, represented crowned with flowers and rib-
bons ; an Egyptian Priest, in basaltes ; a fragment
of an Egyptian Idol ; an Hermean statue of Sopho-
cles, found at Athens ; Alcibiades, from the same
place ; Anacreon ; a bust of Hercules Juvenjs, with
falling locks on each side of the head, which is
covered with the lion's skin ; a group of Nilus, in
small, resembling that formerly in the Capitol ; a
bust of Sappho ; Jupiter and Minerva receiving the
vows of an Athenian, a basso-relievo supposed to
have been part of a frieze designed by Phidias, for
the Pantheon at Athens ; a basso-relievo of an an-
tique Syren ; a fragment of the Eleusinian Mys-
teries, found at Eleusis ; a basso-relievo of Pluto,
with a youth standing before him, displaying repre-
sentations of three kinds of cups used for conse-
crating wine ; a fine specimen of the antique Terra-
cotta, representing in basso-relievo, a Man, with
three young Women, washing the statue of the
Deity of Lampsacus with a sponge ; a large and
very beautifully-sculptured basso-relievo of a Bull,
the Maxima Victima of Virgil, found in Magna
Gratia ; a basso-relievo of a young woman caress-
ing Doves, found in the Isle of Paros, and con-
jectured to be the work of Praxiteles ; a tripod be-
longing to the monument of Lysicrates, at Athens ;
and a fragment found at the Sigaean promontory,
representing an Aunt and Niece waiting the answer
of the Oracle. — Amongst a number of admirable
paintings, may be particularized the following: —
Henry VIII. on panuel ; Holbein : Charles Bran-
don, Duke of Suffolk, and Mary, his wife, the
Queen Dowager of France ; small, on pannel ;
Mabuse : Edward VI. Holbein; a very curious
small picture : Walter, Earl of Essex, with the
date 1572 ; Zuccharo : Roxalana, in the Georgian
dress, half-length ; Gentili Bellini : Roxalana was
a Venetian, and was married to Soliman II. after
having lived several years with him : Bellini painted
this portrait at Constantinople, whither he had been
sent for the purpose by the Doge of Venice, at the
request of Soliman : she died in 1561 : Philip IV.
of Spain, and his Queen Isabella of Bourbon, whole
lengths, on horseback ; Velasquez : Pope Alexan-
der VI. a fine head ; Titian : head of one of the
Medici family ; Carlo Dole! : Thomas Hobbes, the
philosopher of Malmsbury ; Vandyck : six land-
scapes, with figures ; Zuccharelli ; extremely fine :
the Saviour, and St. John Baptist, embracing ; Ra-
phael : Consecration of a Bishop ; Tintoretto : Cleo-
patra applying the asp ; Slurillo : Joseph with the
infant Christ ; Titian ; a very valuable picture : Daniel
in the Lion's Den ; Rubens : the Stoning of St. Ste-
phen ; Titian : Susannah and the Elders ; Guercino :
a Madona ; Guido : a Dead Christ; Annibal Ca-
racci. — Amongst the drawings, which are very
numerous, are two Views of Athens ; the Head of
the Sphinx, and the Pyramids at Alexandria ; the
Pits where the Mummies are obtained near Cairo ;
the Ruins of the Gymnasium, at Alexandria ; Troas,
in Asia Minor ; the Aqueduct of Justinian, near
Constantinople ; View of Constantinople, and the
Harbour called the Golden Horn ; Ruins of the
Homariam, near Smyrna ; Ruins of Hierapolis, in
Upper Phrygia ; and Ruins of a Grand Temple at
.Corinth.
The park at Appuldnrcombe is well stocked with
deer ; and the grounds are disposed with much
beauty. The prospects also are extremely fine ;
comprehending a great portion of the Isle of Wight,
as well as Spithead, Portsmouth, and the adjacent
parts of Hampshire. The artificial ruins called
Cooke's Castle, which stand on a rocky cliff at a
considerable distance to the east, form a good object
from various points of view. On the summit of the
principal eminence in the park, is an obelisk of
Cornish granite, to the memory of Sir Robert
Worsley. — About two miles directly south from the
park, on the sea-shore, near the church of St. Law-
rence, is an elegant cottage, built some years ago
by Sir Richard Worsley, and surrounded by grounds
of an extremely romantic and picturesque character.
Here is the only vineyard in England. It was raised
by Sir Richard under the inspection of a French
vigneron, who commenced his operations in 1792,
and the plants were put in the March following : it
consists of two plantations, occupying about three
acres of ground, sheltered from all unfriendly blasts
by a high range of rocky hills. The vines, which are
of the white Muscadine and Plant Verd sorts, are
planted in beds twelve feet wide ; being so arranged
as to leave a foot and a half between each plant. — >
The
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
75,1
The church of St. Lawrence is (he smallest in the
island, and perhaps in the kingdom, its length being
not more than twenty feet, and its breadth only |
twelve. The greatest oart of this parish Consists j
of a slip of land, extending about a mile and a half
aloiiij the sea-shore, and forming part of a romantic
tract called Undercliff, which reaches from a small
house, called Knowles, on the west, to Bonchureh
on the east ; a distance of nearly six miles. Above
this region, the downs terminate abruptly in a steep
precipice of limestone rock, which accompanies the
Undercliff through its whole length, in an almost
uninterrupted line, assuming the appearance of an
immense stone wall, particularly when seen from any
distance. The general elevation of this precipitous
descent is from 90 to 120 feet : the tract of land
immediately beneath it extends to the sea, varying
in breadth, from a quarter to three quarters of a mile,
or upwards. Through this interval ot rock and water,
colossal fragments of stone, torn or sunk from the
precipice by some great convulsion of nature, lie
scattered in the most irregular confusion. These
solid masses are of such a ponderous magnitude,
that they form eminences of the most capricious
shapes ; while the intermediate spaces become dee])
rallies, in which houses are built, and even ashes
and elms are seen to flourish, sheltered from the
storms aiul the spray of the sea, by the hospitable
and lofty shades of these fragment's. The road
below the cliff is stony and irregular ; but every
inconvenience is compensated by . the grandeur of
the scenery. In some situations, a very distinct
echo is returned from these rocks.
About a mile from St. Lawrence is the beautiful
retreat of Steephill, occasionally inhabited by the Earl
of Dysart, but formerly belonging to the late Hans
Stanley, Esq. who built the cottage when governor
of this isle. It stands on one of the dismembered
rocks above mentioned, nearly half way between the
base of the precipice and the sea ; and though small,
is fitted up with much elegance. Some beautiful
sea-pieces, by Vandevelde, ornament the interior.
The cliffs, which are here covered with shrubs and
coppice-wood, afford a fine and umbrageous canopy
over the walks that have been formed beneath. The
grounds are laid out with great taste. This part
of the coast abounds with shell-fish of every kind.
— A few yards below, is the New-inn, where parties j
usually refresh themselves beneath the spreading
* Bonchureh was the birth-place of Admiral Hobson.
Having been left an orphan at a very early age, lie was
apprenticed to a tailor ; but, inspired by the sight of a squa-
dron of men of war coming round Dun-nose, he suddenly
quilted his work, ran to the beach, jumped into the first boat
he saw, and plied his oars so skilfully, that he quickly reached
the admiral's ship, where he entered as a seaboy. A day or
two afterwards, they met a French squadron; and during the
action which endued,' while the admiral and his antagonist were
engaged varil arm and yard-arm, young Hobson contrived to
get on board the enemy's ship unperceived, and struck and
carried off the French flag; at the moment when he regained
his own vessel, the British tars shouted ' Victory,' without any
foliage of a luxuriant fig-tree. From Steephill the
country begins to wear a more open and cultivated
appearance, but scarcely less romantic. The pre-
cipitous wall is succeeded by a rapid verdant slope
of much greater elevation, trodden only by sheep,
and in one part forcing the road to a narrow anil
tremendous pass, on the brink of a mouldering cliff,
where a few ragged rails seem hardly sufficient to
secure the traveller from danger. On doubling this
point, the hamlet of Ventnor presents itself, formed
by a range of neat cottages, chiefly inhabited by
fishermen, open to the sea in front, and backed by
woods, and the high downs of St. Boniface. Vunt-
nor Mill, well known to tourists, from its highly
picturesque situation, is wrought by a small stream,
which rises about a quarter of a mils above, and,
after passing the mill-dam, falls in a cascade upon
the beach. — The cottage of St. Boniface, finely
seated at the foot of a steep and mountainous emi-
nence, on a small level plain, was the property of the
late Colonel Hill, who obtained it by marriage with
an heiress of a branch of the Popham family. The
grounds are disposed with much judgment, and
possess great natural beauty. At a short distance
is a spring, the virtues of which were formerly held
in such high repute, that even seamen were accus-
tomed to lower the fore-tqpmast on sailing past
this place. — In approaching the village of St.
Boniface, or Bonchureh, the scenery assumes a
very different character : " the smooth declivity of
the down is abruptly changed to a dreary and
romantic waste of craggy, broken, and almost
naked rocks ; not of the magnitude of those be-
tween St. Lawrence and Steephill, but such as may
be expected on the side of a mountain, where one
great stone is checked in its progress by the pro-
jection of another that is firm enough to resist its
further fall. This is the leading feature of the
higher parts of this small parish ; the lower parts
consist of the same stupendous fragments as are
seen in the other spots of the Undercliff, on some of
which arise isolated and natural pyramids." — Bon-
church Cottage, the property of Mr. Hatfield, stands
in a romantic situation. Nearly opposite, is a sin-
gular rock, abruptly starting from the ground, on
which the proprietor has erected a prospect seat,
giving it the appearance of a small fort. The church,
unbosomed in fine trees, is a small antique build-
ing.*— The rude promontory of Dun-nose presents
other cause than that the enemy's colours had disappeared.
The French crew, thrown into confusion by (his event, ran
from their guns, and while the officers were ineffectually
endeavouring to rally them, the British seamen bnardctl their
ship, and forced them to surrender. At this juncture, Hobson
descended from the shrouds with the French flag wrapped round
his arm ; and, after triumphantly exhibiting his pn/e to the
seamen on the main-deck, he was ordered to the quarter-deck,
where the admiral complimented him on his bravery, and
assured him of his protection. From this period his promotion
was rapid ; and having passed through the inferior ranks of the
service with much credit, he was made admiral.
its
7<\o
t>*
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
its craggy heights beyond Boncliurch, and, by pre-
cluding1 all passage along the shore, obliges the
traveller to climb a steep and zigzag road, formed
through the masses of disjointed rock. Ascending
the hill, the chasm called Luccombe Chine presents
itself: the sides of this ravine are clothed with
shrubs and brushwood ; and at the bottom runs a
stream of fine water, which, at the termination of the
Chine, forms a small cascade. Luccombe Chine
was formerly a favourite haunt of smugglers. —
Shanklin Chine, a chasm of a similar description to
that of Luccombe, but on a larger scale, commences
about half a mile from the shore, and gradually in-
creasing in breadth and depth, becomes, where it
opens to the sea, nearly 180 feet wide, and 270
deep. Through the depths of the cavity flows the
Shanklin rivulet, which rises to the south of the
village, and, after supplying the inhabitants with its
waters, hurries down the Chine, and in one part
forms a fall of about twenty feet. — " It is a remark-
able fact, that, about eighty or ninety years ago,
Shanklin Down, which rises to the south-west of
the village of Shanklin, was not to be discerned
from St. Catherine's, owing to the intervention of
the Week Down, whose magnitude and elevation
completely concealed it. A gradual but imper-
ceptible expansion, however, of Shanklin Down,
lias now reared it to a greater bulk, and a greater
height, by at least 100 feet, than that of its former
invidious neighbour."
Sandown Cottage, the elegant retreat of the late
John Wilkes, Esq., is situated near the shore of
Sandown Bay, which extends about six miles, the
eastern extremity being terminated by the chalky
cliffs of Culver, and the south-western by the craggy
rocks of the mountainous point of Dnn-nose. The
house is small, and elegantly fitted up. The
grounds are pleasant, though not extensive. — About
half a mile eastward from the cottage, is Sandown
Fort, a regular quadrangular fortification, flanked
with four bastions, situated on the level of the beach,
and encompassed by a ditch. This was built in the
reign of Henry VIII. ; and, having been repaired,
it is now the most considerable fort in the island. —
Culver Cliffs, which rise to the height of 600 feet,
and terminate the south-eastern extremity of Bim-
bridge Down, are supposed to derive their name
from the Saxon Cu/ive, signifying a pigeon. Nu-
merous flocks of this species breed in the precipitous
recesses of the Cliffs ; which were also famous for a
peculiar breed of hawks, now less plentiful than
formerly. An eagle's nest was taken on these steeps
in 1780, by one of the gatherers of samphire, which
grows here in abundance. — At the eastern part of
the Cliffs, fifty or sixty feet below the summit, is a
natural hollow, called the Hermit's Hole, the path
* As the sea flows in through a very narrow channel, the pro-
prietors of this manor have several times been induced to en-
deavour to exclude it by an embankment ; and the celebrated
Sir Hugh Middletuu had at one period nearly effected this
to which is steep, narrow, and rugged ; only fit to
be trodden by those who are accustomed to explore
the recesses of these craggy eminences. The Cliff*
command the whole sweep of Sandown Bay, with
Shanklin and Dun-nose in the distance. The views
from the summit of Bimbridge Down are peculiarly
fine, and in some respects superior to those from
any other part of the island ; particularly at the
time of high water. The manor-house of Yaver-
land is a spacious and respectable building, appa-
rently of the time of Elizabeth, occupying a bold
situation at the upper end of the village of Yaver-
land. Near it is the church, a small edifice, sup-
posed to have been built by the Russels.
Brading, seven miles E. by S. from Newport, is
an ancient market -town, consisting of one long street
of irregular buildings, situated at the upper end of
Brading Haven, to which a convenient quay is at-
tached. The inhabitants were formerly represented
in parliament ; but they were excused from return-
ing members, on account of inability to support
them. No charter is extant of an earlier date than
the first of Edward VI. ; yet the town was incor-
porated long before that period ; and it is still go-
verned by its corporate officers, consisting of a
senior anil junior bailiff, a recorder, and thirteen
jurats. The town-hail, a small structure near the
church, has a market-place beneath. — The church
is supposed to be the most ancient in the island.
Its erection is ascribed to Wilfrid, Bishop of Chi-
chester, in the year 704, who is said to have bap-
tized his first convert on this spot. On the monu-
ment of Sir John Oglander, and his father Sir
William, are their effigies, represented in complete
armour, carved in wood. In the chancel, curiously
cut on a large slab, is the figure of a man in armour,
with his feet resting on two dogs ; with the figures,
in ornamental niches, of the Virgin with the infant
Saviour, and twelve Apostles ; round the verge is
an inscription, in black letter. — In the church-yard,
on the grave-stone of Mrs. Ann Berry, is the fol-
lowing epitaph :
Forgive, blest shade, the tributary tear
1 liat mourns thy exit from a world like this ;
Forgive the wish that would have kept thee here,
And stay'd thy progress to the seats of bliss.
No more confin'd to groveling scenes of night,
No more a tenant pent in mortal clay ;
Now should we rather hail thy glorious flight,
And trace thy journey to the realms of day.
Brading Haven, an extensive tract of marshy
ground, covered every tide by the sea, at high water
admits the passage of small vessels to the quay. *
The haven abounds with excellent oysters, mullet,
whitings, and flat-fish : cockles are also caught
here in prodigious plenty. Brading parish is still
object ; but, in a wet season, the fresh water which filled the
inner part of the haven, combining with the waves at a high
spring tide, completely destroyed the works, which hail been
raised at an expense ot 7000/.
one
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
one of the largest in Ihe island ; though the parishes
of St. Helen's, Yaverlancl, Shanklin, and Bon-
church, have all heen taken out of its ancient limits.
Its population is upwards of 1200.
Nun well, the ancient seat of the Oglanders, about
a mile west from Brading, on a gentle eminence,
descending from the foot of Nunwell Down, is a
plain building of brick, sheltered by a lofty grove
of ash and lime-trees. In the park, which is about
two miles in circumference, are some very fine oaks.
On the summit of Ashey Down, which rises to the
west of Nunwell, and forms the eastern termination
of Arreton Down, is a triangular pyramid of stone,
about twenty feet high. This was erected by go-
vernment in 1735, as a sea-mark ; the summit of
the Down being conspicuous from almost every
point of the horizon. Near the Pyramid, a Signal
House has been built, for the purpose of communi-
cating with three others placed in different parts of
the island. At the foot of the Down, on the south,
stands Knightou House, the seat of G. M. Bisset,
Esq.
The little village of St. Helen's Green is com-
posed of scattered cottages, neatly built with stone,
and thatched. The old church was partly taken
down about the beginning of the last century, the
church-yard having been encroached on by the sea ;
but the tower was suffered to remain, as a mark for
seamen. The new church occupies a more elevated
situation to the north-west of the village.— In a
beautiful situation opposite St. Helen's Road, was
a Priory for Cluniac Monks, founded before the
year 1155. The site of the ancient building is oc-
cupied by the seat of the late Sir Nash Grose, one
of the judges of the court of King's Bench. In the
southern part of the wood are the remains of an
ancient watch tower, supposed to have belonged to
the priory. — About three quarters of a mile to the
north-west, is Fairy Hill, the seat of the Rev.
Henry Oglander : the house is a neat structure,
and the grounds are pleasantly disposed as a ferine
ornee. — St. John's, near the angle of the road be-
tween Bradiug and the north coast of the island, is
the residence of Edward Simeon, Esq. Between
this and the sea is Apley, the residence of the Rev.
Dr. Walker.
Ryde, an irregular, hut flourishing place, consists
of two divisions, upper and lower. Lower Ryde,
near the water's edge, under a steep bank, at tlie
extremity of a piece of land nearly twelve acres in
extent, which separates it from Upper Ryde, is the
most populous, pleasant, and respectable part of
the village. Ryde is the principal thoroughfare
between the Isle of Wight and Portsmouth ; and
any person desirous of crossing, is empowered, by
act of parliament, to command a boat to go oft' at
any time of the tide, on paying five shillings : the
usual charge in the regular boat is only one shilling.
The accommodations have been much improved
here of late years. — The road between Ryd« and
Binsteiul is exceedingly pleasant. Binstead Church
VOL. iv. — NO. 195.
displays marks of considerable antiquity. — Near
Binstead are the ancient quarries, from which part
of the stone employed in the building of Winchester
Cathedral was obtained ; and, about three quarters
of a mile to the west, are the remains of Qnarr
Abbey, founded originally for Cistercians, by Bald-
win, Earl of Devon, in 1131. Its situation is very
fine : the sea opens on the north ; and on the south
and east, are rich and luxuriant woods. The Re-
fectory, the only building that remains entire, is
now a barn. Part of the site is occupied by a
modern farm-house, built with the old materials of
the ruins ; and some of the ancient monumental
stones are seen in the pavement of the out-houses.
Several illustrious personages were buried in this
abbey ; among whom were Enrl Baldwin, the
founder, and his countess, Adeliza ; and in the
chapel was a monument for the Lady Cicely, second
daughter of Edward IV. — The sequestered road
which leads from Quarr Abbey to Wootten Bridge,
passes through the beautiful and extensive wood
called Firestone, which abounds with aged oaks, and
renders the estuary of the Wootten river, highly
picturesque; particularly, at the time of high water,
when the estuary resembles an extensive lake. At
Wootten Farm, is an oak of remarkably large
dimensions. — On a commanding eminence, south-
ward from Wootten Bridge, is >Fern Hill, the scat
of Charles Chute, Esq. The house, erected by
Lord Bolton, bears some resemblance to a church ;
one end consisting of a lofty and handsome tower,
rising above a single apartment of inferior height
and breadth, at the opposite exlremity. The pros-
pect of Spithead, and the adjacent parts of Hamp-
shire, from this eminence, can scarcely be exceeded
in beauty by any view in the island. — On Arreton
Down, to the south, several ancient weapons were
found near a marl pit, in 1735-6. On the same
eir.inence are two large barrows. — On the eastern
side of the Medina river, a little below Newport, is
Fairlee, the seat of John White, Esq. A mile
lower, and nearly opposite to each other, are the
east and west mills, two immense piles of brick and
stone-work, said to be capable of grinding forty
loads of corn weekly. Immense quantities of bis-
cuits are made here for the use of the navy. — At
Barton was an Oratory of Augustines, founded in
1282, by John de Insula, and dedicated to the
Holy Trinity. The farm-house on this estate in-
cludes some part of the ancient oratory. It belongs
to Barrington Pope Blachford, Esq. whose neigh-
bouring mansion, called Osborne House, is one of
the largest and best houses in the island. It occu-
pies the summit of a hill, commanding some delight-
ful prospects.— Norris, a handsome edifice, built by
James Wyatt, Esq. for Lord Henry Seymour, stands
in a peculiarly fine situation near the shore.
East Cowes, a flourishing hamlet in the parish of
Whippingham, is situated on the east side of the
mouth of the Medina River, and immediately op-
posite to West Cowes, from which it is distant only
9 E three
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
three quarters of a mile. Many of the houses are
respectable ; but the buildings are not arranged in
any regular form. As it is a place of some trade,
a small custom-house has been built here. East
{Jowes Castle, a modern edifice, commands some
.line sea views. The spot called Old Castle Point,
t<n this coast, was the site of a fort built by Henry
VIII. ; no part of which is now standing.
West Cowes, on the declivity of a steep emi-
nence, on the western side of the mouth of the
Medina, is a chapelry to Northwood, and now a
large and populous place. Its building was not
commenced till Henry VIII. erected a castle here,
which is yet standing at the entrance of the har-
bour. * The streets are narrow and ill-built ; but,
^Irom the manner in which they rise one above an-
other from the water's edge, they have, a pleasing
appearance from the sea, and also from the opposite
hanks of the river. The conveniency of this town
for bathing, has of late years occasioned it to be-
come the resort of much fashionable company ; the
general accommodations also are very good, f The
trade carried on here is extensive, particularly in
provisions, and other articles, for the use of the ship-
ping. There are many handsome houses in the
upper parts, and in the vicinity of this town. —
Egypt, the pleasant seat of D. Collins, Esq., occu-
pies the most northerly point of the island.
Newtown, though now comprising only about ten
cottages, is u borough and corporate town, return-
ing two representatives to parliament. It is go-
verned by a mayor. It was formerly called Fran-
cheville. The members are chosen in the town-
hall, which stands on an eminence overlooking one
of the creeks of Newtown Harbour'. The right of
election is vested in the mayor and burgesses having
borough lands. This town is thought to have been
burnt by the Danes in 1001, as it was by the French
in the reign of Richard II. It is evident that here
were two long streets, from east to west, connected
by others running north and south. In some an-
cient deeds are the names of High Street and Gold
* Relating to the castles of East and West Cowes, Lelancl
has some Latin lines, which have been thus translated :—
" The two great Cows, that in loud thunder roar,
This on the eastern, that the western shore ;
Where Newport enters stately Wight."
f This increasingly popular bathing place -has thus been eu-
logised by Sharpe, a local poet: —
See ruddy health with naked bosom, stand
On yonder cliff, and wave the vigorous hand,
Above the banks, with florid cheeks that glow,
Pointing triumphant at the tide below ;
The pregnant tide, with healing power replete,
Where health, where vigour, and where pleasure meet :
Here ocean's breath comes mingled with the breeze,
And drives far off the bloated fiend disease ;
Here ocean's balm the sinking heart delights,
And drooping Britain to the shore invites ;
His essence here shall energetic glow,
And health and spirits on her sons bestow ;
Her beauteous offspring on the bank shall smjle,
And bless the breezes of Medina's isle;
Street. The Haven, formed by the junction of
Newtown River with the sea, is pleasant and se-
cure ; at high water it is of sufficient depth for
vessels of 500 tons burden. — On the western side
of the Newport River, on Hampsted Farm, is a.
large picturesque farm-house, built by J. Nash,
Esq. The farm includes about 1100 acres. — Shal-
fleet Church, an ancient and singular structure,
consists of a body, chancel, and south aisle, with a
low tower of considerable magnitude. The win-
dows were formerly ornamented with painted glass,
some remains of which yet exist.
Yarmouth, or South Yarmouth, anciently called
Eremuth, is a small borough and corporate town,
situated on the east side of the mouth of the river
Yar, 16 miles S.S.W. from Southampton. This,
like Newtown, was formerly a place of much greater
importance ; and, like that also, was destroyed by
the French in the reign of Richard II. Its original
charter, granted by Baldwin, Earl of Devon, was
confirmed by Edward I. and other sovereigns. The
charter of re-incorporation, granted in 1609, ap-
points a common council of twelve chief burgesses,
from among whom one should be annually chosen as
mayor. The right of election is nominally in these
officers, and in free burgesses, who are chosen by
the capital burgesses. The number of voters is
twelve. — At the west end of Yarmouth is a small
ibrt, or castle, erected in the time of Henry VIII.
on the site of the church, which had been demo-
lished by the French a short time before. It con-
sists chiefly of a platform with eight guns. The
present church, near the centre of the town, consists
of a nave and chancel, with a small chapel separated
from the latter. In the chapel is a well executed
monument to the memory of Admiral Sir Robert
Holmes, who was governor of the island in the reign
of Charles II. and entertained that monarch at
Yarmouth, in a house built for his reception, but
now an inn. From the Quay a daily intercourse is
maintained with Lymington, which lies nearly oppo-
site. The population of Yarmouth, in 1811, was
Here ocean's essence unpolluted reigns,
From Nature's vitals, and from Neptune's veins ;
Here lusty health comes rushing day and night,
Unmix' d as truth, and clear as morning light ;
No foul infection mingles with the tide,
In healing virtue pure and virgin pride ;
Along (he tented shore shall beauty skim,
And bosom bright shall lave the lovely limb;
New kindled orbs shall strike with sweet surprise,
As stars relumin'd from the ocean rise ;
No more to foreign baths shall Britain roam,
But plunge at Cowes, and find rich health at home :
Hither shall merit, and shall beauty throng,
Proclaim its worth, and vindicate my song ;
Through future times the raptur'd muse shall see,
What years unborn shall joyful bring to thee ;
Thy crowded ports with trade shall rich run o'er,
And stately structures glitter on thy shore ;
The world shall find thee, and with wonder tell,
That Vecta's shining scenes the world excel.
427.
THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
753
427.— On the sea-shore, westward from the Yar
river, are the remains of Worsley's Tower, and
Carey's Sconce ; two fortifications successively
erected near the same spot, in the reigns ol
Henry VIII. and Elizabeth. — Near the Tillage ol
Freshwater, * on the western bank of the Yar, is
Freshwater House, live seat of Edward Ruslnvorth,
Esq.— Freshwater Gate is a small creek, in the
centre of Freshwater Bay, separated, only by a
narrow isthmus of pebbles, from the source of the
Yar. On the western side, between two and three
hundred yards from a convenient little inn,, is an
extensive natural cavern, opening to the sea ; and,
at some distance to the eastward, about 500 yards
from the shore, are two insulated rocks, through one
of which the waves have formed an opening, re-
sembling a picturesque arch. The views of this
part of the coast from the sea are extremely fine.
The cliffs are the resort of innumerable multitudes
of marine birds. The prospect from the light-house,
on the highest point of ihe Freshwater Cliffs, is ex-
tremely magnificent, and includes a full view of the
Needle rocks. — The road eastward from Fresh-
water, passes over a range of high downs, from
400 to 600 feet above the level of the sea ; and
commanding prospects of proportionable extent.
The lands below these hills to the south, are fertile,
and well cultivated. On Brook Down, so called
from its contiguity to the village of Brook, are
several tumuli, each encompassed with a small foss ;
supposed to have been raised after a battle, as there
is a place adjacent to the downs, called Dunsbury,
probably a corruption of Danesbury. At Mead
End, near Brook, large timber and hazel-nuts are
found at a considerable depth in the soil.— Mottes-
too, a small village, pleasantly situated, in full
view of the sea, was part of the possessions of the
ancient family De Insula ; but, in 1374, it became
the property of Edward Chyke, Esq. whose de-
scendants retained it upwards of 300 years. Of
this family was the celebrated Sir John Cheke, Knt.
the first Greek scholar of his age. — Westove'r, in
the parish of Calbourne, is a small hunting seat, the
property of Lord Holmes.— In Calbourne Church
is an ancient tomb, inlaid with brass, representing
a knight in complete armour, with his feet resting
on a dog. — Frog Hill, the seat of Fitzwilliam
Barriugton, Esq. is pleasantly situated to the north-
west from Calbourne Church, near the margin of a
* Freshwater was ihe birth-place of Dr. Robert Hooke,
the inventor of the pendulum spring for watches. He was
born in 1635. His father was curate of the parish ; but dying
while his son was young, the; latter was taken into the house
of the Rev. Dr. Busby. There he acquired the Latin, Greek,
and Oriental languages. At Christ Church, Oxford, he attract-
ed the notice of Dr. Willis, whom he frequently assisted in his
chemical operations ; ana by him he was introduced to the
Hon. Robert Boyle, who engaged him as an assistant in the
mechanical and philosophical works he was then employed on.
Hooke's genius contributed to the invention and construction
of the air-pump. On the institution of the Royal Society, he
became cue of its fellows ; was afterwards intrusted with the
pellucid stream, which rises on Swainston Down,
and flows into the Newport river. — Swainston, the
seat of Sir John Barrington, Bart, was anciently
the property of the Bishops of Winchester. In the
first of Queen Mary, it was granted to Winifred,
daughter and co-heiress of Henry, son of the
Countess of Salisbury. This lady, for her second
husband, married Sir Thomas Barrington, Knt.
from whom the manor has regularly descended to
its present possessor. The house, a small, yet con-
venient structure, is finely situated in the midst of
a wide and sylvan demesne.— North-Court House,
near Shorwell, is the property and residence of
Richard Bull, Esq. In Shorwell Church are several
handsome monuments of the Leigh family. On th«
borders of this parish, is Billingham, the seat of
the Rev. James Worsley. — St. Catherine's Hill, the
western ascent of which commences near Chale
Church, is the highest eminence in the island, its
summit being 750 feet above high-water mark.
The prospects are uncommonly fine, and extensive.
On this eminence a chapel, dedicated to St. Cathe-
rine, was erected in 1323, by Walter, lord of the
manor of Godyton, in this neighbourhood. The
tower was employed as a light-house, and sea-mark ;
to the latter of which purposes it is yet appro-
priated, and is still called St. Catherine's Tower.
A hermitage had stood upon this spot. — On the
south-western declivity of St. Catherine's Hill com-
mences the rude chasm, distinguished by the name
of Black-gang Chine, which has partly been formed,
by the springs that rise here. " Two currents,"
observes Wyndham, in his Description of tlw»
Isle of Wight, "from distant parts of this hill,
have made their way to its brow, and, from this
height, have excavated two large and separate
chasms, but their waters form a junction at the foot
of a high prominent point, the sides of which have
been torn away by the respective torrents. The
chasms at this junction become one, and conse-
quently much deepened : the waters more rapidly
hurry down the steep channel, for about 200 yards,
till they arrive at an impenetrable precipice of
rock, from which they fall in a perpendicular
sheet, of forty feet, upon the shore. The declivities
of this Chine are lined alternately with strata of
rock, and of a dark, crumbling earth, from the latter
of which, its name of Black-gang is probably de-
rived. This earth having been washed away by the
care of its repository, and made Professor of Mechanics to that
body ; and, about the same period, he was elected Professor of
Geometry in Gresham College. After the fire of London, in
1666, he was appointed one of the city surveyors, in which em-
ployment he attained affluence ; but the mechanical sciences
were still the favourite objects of his pursuit. In 169 1 , he was
created M. D. by warrant from Archbishop Tillotson ; but it
does not appear, that he was ever professionally engaged in the
practice of physic, lie died in 1702. Several of his papers
were printed in the Philosophical Transactions ; but the chief
work published in his lifetime, was intituled, ' Micrographia,
Philosophical Description of minute Bodies, &c.'
Posthumous works appeared in 1705.
His
current,
756
THE ISLE OF MAN.
current, the rock above it, of course, became under-
mined, and has fallen : the stones lie in large frag-
ments throughout every part of the channel ; but
a long and upright stratum of rock extends itself on
each side «f the chasm, and gives the appearance of
a regular and grand embankment to the declivity."
Many smaller chines exist on this exposed coast. —
During a hard frost in February, 1799, a remark-
able phenomenon occurred on this coast, about half
a mile south-eastward from Black-gang Chine. The
whole of a farm, called Pitlands, on the confines of
the parishes of Niton and Chale, consisting of 100
acres, was observed to be in motion, during two
successive days, directing its course towards the sea,
in nearly a direct line. In many places, the earth
sunk thirty or forty feet ; and a cottage was partly
thrown down, and buried in the fissures. This
landslip is thought to have been occasioned by the
freezing of the springs in the chasms of the hill ;
the expansive force of the ice causing a separation
at the base of the cliff beneath the hill, the ground
began to move forward ; and the lands of the farm,
pressed on by the descending mass, were torn from
their original foundations, and moved forward, till
their further progress was stopped by the stability
of a ridge of rocks, which prevented them from
rushing headlong into the ocean.
We may close this sketch, with the remark, that
a voyage round the Isle of Wight, for which vessels
may be engaged at. Cowes and Ryde, is extremely
pleasant. It may generally be performed in a day ;
but, as an affair of pleasure, two days should be
allotted for the purpose, to allow time for occa-
sional landings.
THE ISLE OF MAN.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
THIS island, once the seat of druidical wor-
ship, and, more recently, the scene of many a
superstitious tale, is situated in the Irish sea, about
seven leagues north from Anglesea, seven west from
.Lancashire, nearly the same south-east from Gal-
loway, and nine leagues east from Ireland. Its
form is long and narrow, stretching from the north-
east of Ayre-point to the Calf of Man, which lies
south-west, at least thirty English miles. Its
breadth in some places is upwards of nine miles,
and in some not more than five : it contains about
102,400 ^icres. — The first author who mentions this
island is Ca;sar ; for there can be as little doubt
that by the mona, of which he speaks in his Commen-
taries, placing it in the midst between Britain and
Ireland, we are to understand Man, as that the
Mona of Tacitus, which he acquaints us had a
fordable strait between it and the continent, can be
no other than Anglesea. Pliny has mentioned both ;
Monu, Anglesea, and Monabia, Man. In Ptolemy
we find MimaaAa,or Monaida, that is, the farther or
more remote Mon. Orosius styles it Menavia ; and
tells us that it was not extremely fertile, and that this,
as well as Ireland, was then possessed by the Scots.
Becle, who distinguishes two Menavian islands,
names this the Northern Menavia, bestowing the
epithet of southern upon Anglesea. In some copies
of Nennius, this isle is denominated Eubonia, in
others, Menavia ; but both are explained to mean
Man. The Britons called it Manew, or Mainau, i. e.
" a little island," which seems to be latinized in the
-word Menavia. — In the close of the first century,
the Druids, finally expelled by Julius Agricola, from
the southern Mona, took shelter in the northern.
This island they found well planted with firs, so that
they had, in some measure, what they delighted in
most, the shelter of trees ; not, however, the shelter
of those trees in which they most delighted, viz.
oaks ; and therefore these they introduced. They
gave the people, with whom they lived, and over
wliona they ruled, a gentle government, and wise
laws, but a very superstitious religion. In the be-
ginning of the fifth century, the Scots had trans-
ported themselves hither, it is said, from Ireland.
The tradition of the natives of Man begins at this
period. They style this first discoverer Mannan
Mac Lear ; and they say that he was a magician,
who kept this country covered with mists, so that
the inhabitants of other places could never find it.
The princes who ruled after him seem to have been
of the same line with the kings of Scotland, with
which country they had a great intercourse, assisting
the monarchs in their wars, and having the education
of their princes confided to them in time of peace.
In the beginning of the seventh century, Edwin,
King of Northumberland, invaded the Menavian
islands, ravaged Man, and fcept it for some time,
when Beda assures us there were in it about 300
families. The second line of their princes they de-
rive from Orrys, who, they say, was the son of the
King of Norway; and that there were twelve of
the princes of this house who governed Man. In
the year 1266, there was a very solemn agreement
made between Magnus IV. of Norway, and Alex-
ander III. of Scotland, by which this isle, among
the rest, WITS surrendered to the Scots for 4000
marks,
THE ISLE OF MAN.
7/>7
marks, to be paid in four years, and 100 marks
yearly ; and, "pursuant (o this, Alexander drove out
the King of Man, .in the year 1270, and united it to
Scotland. In 1312, there was a second agreement
between Hacqtiin V. and Robert I. of Scotland ;
and in 1426, a third agreement, all of which are
set down at large in Torfeus's History of the
Orcades. But before this last agreement, the island
was in the possession of John Lord Stanley and of
Man, who had it given him by Henry IV. in 1405.
However, forasmuch as by the agreement between
the kings of Norway and Scotland, the latter claim-
ed a right to this island, the lords of Man were
obliged to keep a constant standing army, and gar-
risons for the defence of it, till the reign of King
James I. of England. And in this honourable
bouse it continued to the year 1739, except for
twelve years during the wars, when it was given
by the Parliament to the Lord Fairfax ; but it re-
turned to its ancient lords at the Restoration. After
which it came to the Duchess of Athol, the daughter
of the earl, as a barony in fee. The lord sends
a governor, lieutenant, or captain, who constantly
resides at Castletown, where he has a handsome
house, salary, and other conveniences befitting his
station. " He is to take care that all officers, civil
and military, discharge their trusts and duty. He
is chancellor, and to him there is an appeal in
matters of right and wrong, and from him to the
lord, and, finally (if occasion be) to the King of
England, in council. By act of Parliament, 1765,
the island and lordship of Man, and all the islands
and lordships, royalties and regalities, and fran-
chises, liberties, and seaports to the same belong-
ing, and all the other hereditaments and premises
granted by the several letters patent to the family
of Derby, &c. shall be unalienably vested in his
• majesty and successors, excepting and reserving to
the Duke of Athol and his heirs, the patronage of
the bishopric of the Isle of Man, or of the bishoprics
of Sodor and Man, the temporals of the same when
vacant, and all other patronages and ecclesiastical
benefices within the island ; also reserving tha
landed property, with all rights in or over the soil,
as lords of the manor, with all courts baron, rents
services, and other incidents to such courts belong-
ing, wastes, commons, and other lands, inland
•water, fishings, mills, mines, and minerals ; and
also reserving the honorary service of rendering to
bis majesty's heirs and successors, kings and queens
of England, two falcons, on the days of their re-
spective coronations."
The Isle of Man, from its situation, directly in
the mouth of the channel, is very beneficial to
Britain, by lessening the force of the tides. It is
frequently exposed to very high winds, and at other
times to mists, which, however, are not insalubrious.
The soil towards the north is dry and sandy, of
consequence unfertile, but not unimprovable. The
mountains, including nearly two-thirds of the island,
are bleak and barren, yet afford excellent peat, and
TOL. iv. — NO. 195.
contain several kinds of metals. They maintain
also a kind of small swine, called purrs, which are
excellent pork. In the vallies there is excellent
pasture, hay, and corn ; and the southern part of
the island is a particularly fine soil. Here are marl
and limestone sufficient to render even the poorest
lands fertile ; excellent slate, rag-stone, black mar-
ble, and some other kinds for building. Here also
are vegetables of all sorts, and in the utmost per-
fection : potatoes in immense quantities ; and, where*
proper pains have been taken, tolerable fruit ; hemp,
flax, large crops of oats and barley, and some wheat.
Hogs, sheep, goats, black cattle, and horses, are
in plenty ; and in the high mountains one asrie of
eagles, and two of excellent hawks. The rivulets
furnish salmon, trout, eels, and other kinds of fresh
water fish ; and on the coast are caught cod, turbot,
ling, halibut, all sorts of shell fish, (oysters only
are scarce, but large and good,) and herrings ; the
fishery of which has much declined. — The inhabi-
tants, though not unmixed, were, perhaps, till within
the course of (he last century, more so than any
other under the dominion of the crown of Britain,
to which they are proud of being subjects. In
ancient times they were distinguished by their sta-
ture, courage, and great skill in maritime affairs ;
and they are still a brisk, lively, hardy, industrious
people. The Manks tongue, spoken by the common
people, is the old British, mingled with the Nor-
wegian and the modern language. In this the clergy
preach, and read the common-prayer.
In the Earl of Derby's time, the revenue of the
island amounted to about 2,500/. a year ; from which,
deducting his civil list, about 700/. the clear income
amounted to 1,800/. The population, at the same
time, was computed at 20,000. — The most general
division of the island is into north and south ; and
it contains seventeen parishes, of which five are
market-towns. Civilly, the island is divided into
six sheetings, every one having its proper coroner,
who, in the nature of a sheriff, is intrusted with the
peace of his district, secures criminals, and brings
them to justice, Sec. Lord chief justice Coke says,
" their laws were such as scarce to be found any
where else." — A ridge of mountains runs almost the
length of the isle, whence abundance of good water
rises from the' rivulets and springs. Snafield, the
highest mountain, rises about 1740 feet. The air is
sharp and cold in winter ; but the irosts are short ;
and the snow, especially near the sea, does not lie
long on the ground. — Here is plenty of limestone, red
freestone, and good slate,- with some mines of lead,
copper, and iron. Rushin, Douglas, and Peele, are
the chief towns of this island. Douglas, Derby-
haven, Peele, and Ramsey, each having several
dependant creeks, are the regular ports. From
Liverpool the passage is generally performed in two
tides ; but the packet from Whitehaven in most
instances performs its voyage in twelve hours.
Rushin, or Castletown, anciently called Sodor,
the capital of the isle, contains about 500 houses,
0 F exceedingly
758
THE ISLE OF MAN.
exceedingly well-built. The harbour, which is safe
and commodious, is on the southern side of the
island. It was in this town that St. Patrick fixed
lite residence of a bishop ; but it was removed to
Peele before the Reformation. Adjoining to the
town is the castle, which is considered as the chief
fortress in the island. Tradition states it to have
been built about the year 960, by Guttred, grandson
to the king of Denmnrk, and the second of a suc-
cession of kings, called Orrys. This castle is a
stately structure, situated on a rock, and encom-
passed with walls, so thick that three persons may
walk on them a-breast. It has a lofty tower, and
the whole is surrounded with a moat, having a
draw-bridge. All the civil courts are held in the
castle. — This building, which is remarkably solid, the
stone-work of the keep and other parts being almost
entire, is thought by travellers to bear a striking re-
semblance to the castle of Elsinore, in Denmark.
Guttred, the founder, lies buried under its walls.
As this fortress has suffered several sieges, the con-
sequent repairs must have somewhat altered its
inferior parts, though in all probability the keep is
•in its original form. In the roof of the keep is
some uncommonly large timber, brought, according
to tradition, from the Isle of Anglesca. Here is a
deep dungeon for prisoners, who were lowered down
into it by ropes, or conducted by a ladder, there
being no steps to it ; nor was the least glimmer of
light admitted, except what made its way through
the chinks of its covering. — The Manksmen, ac-
cording to Waldron, had the following strange tra-
dition concerning this castle : — " Just at the entrance
of the castle is a great stone chair for the governor,
and two lesser for the deem paters ; here they try all
causes, except ecclesiastical, which are entirely under
the decision of the bishop — When you are past this
little court you enter into a long winding passage,
between two high walls, not much unlike what is
described of Rosamond's labyrinth, at Woodstock ;
in case of an attack 10,000 men might be destroyed
by a very few in attempting to enter ; the extremity
of it brings you to a room where the key sit. They
are twenty-four in number, they call them the
Parliament ; but in my opinion they more re-
semble our juries in England, because the business
of their meeting is to adjust differences between
the common people, and are locked in till they
have given in their verdict. They may be said,
in this sense indeed, to be supreme judges, be-
cause from them there is no appeal, but to the lord
himself. — A little further is an apartment which
has never been opened in the memory of man ; the
persons belonging to the castle are very cautious in
giving any reason for it ; but the natives, who are
excessively superstitious, assign this — that there is
something of enchantment in it. They tell you,
that the castle was first inhabited by fairies, and
afterwards by giants, who continued in possession
of it till the days of Merlin, who, by the force of
magic, dislodged the greatest part of them, and
bound the rest in spells, which they believe will be
indissoluble to the end of the world. For proof of
this they tell you a very odd story : they say there
are a great number of line apartments under ground,
exceeding in magnificence any of the upper rooms.
Several men of more than ordinary courage have in
former times ventured down to explore the secrets
of this subterranean dwelling-place, but none of
them ever returned to give an account of what they
saw ; it was therefore judged convenient that all the
passages to it should be kept continually shut, that
no more might suffer by their temerity. But about
some fifty or fifty-five years since, a person, who
had an uncommon boldness and resolution, never
left soliciting permission of those who had power to
grant it, to visit those dark abodes ; in fine, he ob-
tained his request, went down and returned by the
help of a clue of packthread which he took with
him, which no man before himself had ever done,
and brought this amazing discovery ; viz. that, after
having passed through a great number of vaults, he
came into a long narrow place, which, the farther
he. penetrated, he perceived he went more and more
on a descent ; till having travelled as near as he
could guess, for the space of a mile, he began to
see a little gleam of light, which, though it seemed
to come from a vast distance, yet was the most de-
lightful sight he had ever beheld in his life. Having
at length come to the end of that lane of darkness,
he perceived a very large and magnificent house,
illuminated with a great many candles, whence pro-
ceeded the light just now mentioned. Having before
he began this expedition well fortified himself with
brandy, he had courage enough to knock at the door ;
which a servant at the third knock having opened,
asked him what he wanted. " I would go as far as I
can," replied our adventurer ; " be so kind therefore
as to direct me how to accomplish my design, for
I see no passage but that dark cavern, through which
I came." The servant told him he must go through
that house ; and accordingly led him through a long
entry, and out of the back door. He then walked
a considerable way, and at last beheld another house,
more magnificent than the first ; and the windows
being all open, discovered innumerable lamps burn-
ing in every room. Here he designed also to knock,
but had the curiosity to step on a little bank, which
commanded a low parlour ; and looking in, he be-
held a vast table in the middle of the room, of black
marble, and on it, extended at full length, a man,
or rather monster ; for by his account he could not
be less than fourteen feet long, and ten or eleven
round the body. This prodigious fabric lay as if
sleeping, with his head on a book, and a sword by
him of a size answerable to the hand which it is
supposed made use of it. This sight was more ter-
rifying to our traveller than all the dark and dreary
mansions he had passed through in his arrival to it ;
he resolved, therefore, not to attempt entrance into
a place inhabited by persons of that unequal stature,
and made the best of his way back to the other house,
where
.THE ISLE OF MAN.
750
where the same servant reconducted and informed
him, that it' he had knocked at the second door, he
would have seen company enough, but never could
have returned ; on which he desired to know what
place it was, and by whom possessed ; but the other
replied, that these things were not to be revealed.
He then took his leave, and by the same dark pas-
sage got into the vaults, and soon after, once more
ascended to the light of the sun. -^-Ridiculous as this
narrative appears, whoever seems to disbelieve it is
looked on as a person of a weak faith." Another
story of the same sort, related by the same author,
is as follows : — " A mighty bustle they also make
of an apparition, which, they say, haunts Castle
Rushin, in the form of a woman, who was some
years since executed for the murder of her child. I
have heard not only persons who have been confined
there for debt, but also the soldiers of the garrison,
affirm they have seen it various times ; but what I
took most notice of was the report of a gentleman,
of whose good understanding as well as veracity 1
have a very great opinion : he told me, that hap-
pening to be abroad late one night, and catched
in an excessive storm of wind and rain, he saw a
woman stand before the castle gate, where being
not the least shelter, it something surprised him
that any body, much less one of that sex, should
not rather run to some little porch or shed, of which
there are several in Castletown, than choose to stand
still, exposed and alone, to such a dreadful tempest.
His curiosity exciting him to draw nearer, that he
might discover who it was that seemed so little to
regard the fury of the elements, he perceived she
retreated on his approach, and at last, he thought
went into the castle, though the gates were shut :
this obliging him to think he had seen a spirit, sent
him home very much terrified ; but the next day re-
lating his adventure to some people who lived in the
castle, and describing, as near as he could, the garb
and stature of the apparition, they told him it was
that of the woman above mentioned, who had been
frequently seen by the soldiers on guard to pass in
and out of the gates, as well as to walk through
the rooms, though there were no visible means to
enter. Though so familiar to the eye, no person
has yet, however, had the courage to speak to it ;
and as they say a spirit has no power to reveal its
mind without being conjured to do so in a proper
manner, the reason of its being permitted to wander
is unknown."
At the village of Ballasally, about five miles from
Rushin, are the remains of a monastery, called
Rushiu Abbey, which, according to Sachevercll,
was founded by one Mac Marus, elected to the
government of the island for his many virtues.
" He, in the year 1098, laid the first foundation of
the Abbey of Rushen, in the town of Ballasally.
These monks lived by their labour, with great mor-
tification ; wore neither shoes, furs, nor linen ; eat no
flesh except on- journies. It consisted of twelve
monks and an abbot, of whom the first was called
Conanus. I find the Cislertian order to have its
first beginning this very year ; thous-h, probably,
it was not planted here till six and thirty years after-
wards, by Evan, Abbot of Furness." — In 113J,
Olave, King of Wan, third son of Goddard Crow-
nan, gave to Evan, Abbot of Furness, in Lanca-
shire, the monastery of Rushen, with some additio'»il
hinds, with which he either enlarged or rebuilt the
abbey, dedicated it to tiie Blessed Virgin, instituted
the Cistertian discipline, and made it a cell de-
pendant on the abbey of Furness, to which lie gave
not only the right of electing the Abbot of Rushen,
but, as some say, the bishops of the island. "It was
a sort of chapter to the diocese. Rushen Abbey
was by King Olave endowed with great privileges
and immunities. — " The revenue was set out after
the most ancient and apostolical manner : viz. one-
third of all the tithes to the bishop for his mainte-
nance ; the second to the abbey for education of
youth, and relief of the poor (for those good monks
were then the public charity) ; the third portion of
the tithes were given to the parochial priests for
their subsistence." — In the year 1192, the monks
removed to Douglas ; but returned four years after-
wards. In 1-2-37, Richard, bishop of the isles, con-
secrated the Abbey Church of St. Mary Rushen,
which (though begun 130 years before, and in that
time had been the repository of many of their kings)
it is probable was not finished till that time. — This
monastery was, in 1310, plundered by Richard le
Mandeville, who, with a numerous train of Irish,
lauded at Rannesway, on Ascension-day, and de-
feated the Manksmen under Barrowl Hill. After a
month's stay, he, vjth his people, re-embarked for
Ireland. — In the third year of the reign of King
James, the site of this abbey was in the crown,
where it had remained ever since the Dissolution,
and was by that king leased to Sir Thomas Leighe,
Knt. and Thomas Spenser, Esq. with the Priory
of Douglas, the Grey-friars at Brymaken, and the
rectories and churches of Kirkecrist in Shelding and
Kirk-lavan, with their appurtenances, parcels of the
Abbey of Rushen, usually let at the annual rent of
101/. los. 11</. for the term of forty years at the
| same rent, and several other payments, amounting
j to 21/. 17s. as also a fine of 101/. 15s. 1 \d. all woods,
| underwoods, mines, and quarries, being reserved
! to the crown. — Mr. More, who subsequently pos-
i sessed the site of the ruins, built thereon a hund-
j some house, converting part of the offices of the
I ancient monastery into out-houses. In the adjoin-
j ing close, the tomb-stone of one of the abbots is
I shewn ; on it is the pastoral stuff and a broad sword,
'< signifying that he had temporal as well as spiritual
! authority.
j Douglas, the most populous town, stands on the
1 south-eastern part of the island, eleven miles from
'• Rushen. Its name is derived from its situation on
! the banks of two small streams, the waters of one
of which are of a blackish hue, and the other of a
grey tint ; the word ding/as, in Erse, signifying those
colours.
760
THE ISLE OF MAN.
colours. The streets are irregular, but the houses
are neat. This town has a handsome chapel and
free-school, and is the residence of most of the prin-
cipal traders of the island. Here is a very spacious
and safe harbour, capable of receiving ships of the
largest burthen. In the neighbourhood was an-
ciently a convent ; and the ruins of its chapel and
monuments yet remain. The town is defended by
a strong fort, which makes it impregnable by sea.
Its market is large and well supplied.
Peele, formerly Holm, a small town, on the
western side of the island, is a straggling place,
the harbour of which is neglected, and the pier
destroyed ; but it has a very spacious and com-
modious bay. Here are the remains of a castle
and two churches, the one dedicated to St. Patrick,
and the other called St. Germain's, winch is the
cathedral. The castle and the cathedral stand on
Peele Island, an extensive lofty rock, encircled by
the sea. The channel, which divides this island
from the main land, is very deep at high water, but
at low water it is fordable, and was formerly joined
to the main land by a strong stone quay. The walls
of the castle, enclosing an irregular polygon, con-
taining an area of about two acres, are flanked with
towers built of a rough grey whinstone, butcoigned
and faced in many parts with a red grit, found in the
neighbourhood. This contrast of colours has a
pleasing effect. The present works are said to
have been constructed by Thomas, Earl of Derby,
about the year 1500. The whole area is full of
ruins, divers buildings, walls, and dwelling-houses.
Here died in 1237, Olave, King of Man, to whom
King Henry til. granted safe conduct, and settled
an annual pension on him of forty marks, one
hundred quarters of corn, and h've tuns of wine for
his homage, and defence of the sea-coast. He was
buried in the abbey of Rushin. — "It was in this
castle (observes Waldron) that Eleanor, wife to
Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, uncle to Henry
VI. and lord protector of England, was confined,
after being banished through the malice of the Duke
of Suffolk, and Cardinal of Winchester, who accused
her of having been guilty of associating herself with
wizards and witches, to know if her husband would
ever attain the crown, and other treasonable practices.
Sir John Stanley, then lord of Man, had the charge
of her, and having conducted her to the island,
placed her in this castle ; where she lived in a man-
ner befitting her dignity, nothing but liberty being
refused : she appeared, however, so turbulent and
impatient under this confinement, that he was obliged
to keep a strict guard over her ; not only because
there were daily attempts made to get her away,
but also to prevent her from laying violent hands
on her own life. They tell you, that ever since her
death, to this hour, a person is heard to go up the
stone stairs of these little houses on the walls, con-
stantly every night, as soon as the clock has struck
twelve; but 1 never heard any one say they had
seen what it was, though the general conjecture is,
that it is no other than the spirit of this lady, who
died, as she lived, dissatisfied, and murmuring at
her fate." — The cathedral church of St. Germain's,
in this castle, apparently constructed with more at-
tention to strength than beauty, is built with a coarse
grey-stone; but the angles, window-cases, and
arches, are coigned and formed with a stone almost
as red as brick. This church is described by many
writers, as richly ornamented, and abounding in.
monumental inscriptions in different languages ; but,
at present, there is not a single piece of carved stone
about the whole edifice, nor the least vestige of any
funereal memorandum, except near the west door,
where there are the marks of a small brass plate,
said to have been placed over the grave of one of
the bishops. The whole building is extremely
ruinous, much of it unroofed, and the remainder
so much out of repair, that it would not be safe for a
congregation to assemble in it. — The inhabitants,
however, continue to bury within and about its
walls. — Beneath the easternmost part of this church
is the Ecclesiastical Prison ; bad enough, indeed,
but not equal to the horrid picture drawn of it by
Waldron. The descent into this vault is by eighteen
steps only, of about ten inches each, winding through
a dark, but not very narrow passage ; as a man of
the largest size may, without much difficulty, go
down them. — The bottom of the vault is therefore
just fifteen feet below the surface of the ground.
Its length from east to west is thirty-four feet,
breadth sixteen feet, and height ten feet three inches ;
the roof vaulted by thirteen ribs, forming pointed
arches, and supported by as many short semihexa-
gonal pilasters,only twenty-one inches above ground.
The bottom of this place is extremely rough ; and
in the north-west corner is a well, or spring, which
must have added greatly to the natural dampness of
'the place; to which there is no other air or light,
but what is admitted through a small window at
the east end. — Of one of the ruined buildings, or
churches, which served for a guard-house, the fol-
lowing wonderful story is related by Waldron : —
" Through one of these old churches, there was
formerly a passage to the apartment belonging to the
captain of the guard ; but it is now closed up. The
reason they give you for it is a pretty odd one ; but
as I think it not sufficient satisfaction to my curious
reader, to acquaint him with what sort of buildings
this island affords, without letting him know also
what traditions are concerning them, I shall have
little regard to the censure of those critics, who find
fault with every thing out of the common road ; and
in this, as well as in all other places, when it falls
in my way, shall make it my endeavour, to lead him
into the humours and very souls of the Manks people.
They say, that an apparition, called in their lan-
guage, the Mauthe Doog, in the shape of a large
black spaniel, with curled shaggy hair, was used to
haunt Peel Castle ; and has been frequently seen in
every room, but particularly in the guard chamber,
when, as soon as the candles were lighted, it came
and
THE ISLE OF ,,!/-
and lay down before the fire, in presence of all the
soldiers ; who at length, by being so much ac-
customed to the sight of it, lost great part of the
terror they were seized with at its first appearance.
They still, however, retained a certain awe, as be-
lieving it was an evil spirit, which only waited to do
them hurt; and for that reason forbore swearing,
and all prophane discourse, while in its company.
But though they endured the shock of sucii a guest
when all together in a body, none cared to be. left
alone with it. It being the custom, therefore, for
one of the soldiers to lock the gates of the castle, at
a certain hour, and carry the keys to the captain, to
whose apartment, as I said before, the way led
through a church ; they agreed among themselves,
that whoever was to sutceed, the ensuing night, his
fellow in this errand, should accompany him that
went first, and by this Tieans no man would be ex-
posed singly to the danger ; for I forgot to mention
that the Mattllie Doog, vas always seen to come out
from that passage at theclose of day, and return to
it again as soon as the miming dawned, which made
them look on this place s its peculiar residence.—
One night a fellow bein{.drunk, and by the strength
of his liquor rendered norc daring than ordinary,
laughed at the simpliciV of his companions ; and
though it was not his turnto go with the keys, would
needs take that office upo him, to testify his cou-
rage. All the soldiers eneavoured to dissuade him ;
but the more they said, th more resolute he seemed ;
and swore that he desire! nothing more than that
the Mautlie Doog would illow him as it had done
the others, for he would "y if it were dog or devil.
After having talked in a «ry reprobate manner foi
some time, he snatched o the keys, and went oul
of the guard-room : in sore time alter his departure
a great noise was heard, bt nobody had the bold-
ness to see what occasiond it, till the adventurer
returning, they demandecthe knowledge of him:
but as loud and noisy as he id been at leaving them,
he was now become sober id silent enough ; for he
was never heard to speak nre ; and though all the
time he lived, which washree days, he was en-
treated by all who came mr him, either to speak,
or if he could not do thatto make some signs by
which they might understai what had happened to
him; yet nothing intelligiblcould be got from him,
only, that by the distortion ' his limbs and features,
it might be guessed that hidied in agonies, more
than is common in a natuil death. The Maitthe
Doog was, however, never ;en after in the castle ;
nor would any one attempt > go through that pas-
sage ; for which reason it wa^losed up, and another
way made. This accident appened about three-
score years since ; and I hea it attested by several,
but especially by an old soldr, who assured me he
liad seen it oftener than he 1J hairs on his head."
The remains of St. Patrick's Church, a little to
the westward of that of St. Germain, exhibit evident
marks of antiquity. Its doors and windows seem
to have been circular. A little to the west of the
church is a small round tower, formerly used as a
watch tower or look-out. — A few paces south of St.
Patrick's Church, are the remains of the armoury,
whence many matchlock-muskets, and other ancient
arras, were removed on the sale of the island. In
the cellar of a wine merchant in the town of Peele,
there were, in 1774, several very ancient guns, their
bore measuring a foot in diameter. They were
formed by a number of bars laid close together, and
hooped with thick iron rings. Several of them had
no breech, and seemed to be of the peteraro kind,
loading from behind with a chamber. — About the
middle of the area, a little to the northward of the
churches of St. Patrick and St. Germain, is a
square pyramidal mount of earth, terminating ob-
tusely. Each of its sides faces one of the cardinal
points, but time and the weather have rounded off
| its angles. It measures about seventeen yards, and
it is surrounded by a ditch, about five feet and a
I half broad. It is conjectured to have been raised in
imitation of the Tinwald, a mount so called in this
island, whence all new laws are promulgated ; and
that from this eminence the governor or commanding
officer harangued his garrison, and distributed his
: orders. Possibly it may have been the burial place
1 of some great personage in very early times ; tu-
muli of this kind not being uncommon in the island.
Waldron speaks of the remains of four churches
within the walls of this castle. At present the ruins
of St. Patrick's and St. Germain's only are visible ;
or. at least carry evident marks of their former
destination.
Ramsay, a town and chapelry in the parish of St.
3Iaughold's, at the north-eastern coast of the island,
sixteen miles from Douglas, contains about 300
houses, and 1610 inhabitants. The bay, which is
spacious, affords good anchorage ; but the present
harbour is bad, and only fit for small vessels. Near
it is a light-house, the lower part of which is used
as a prison. It has a neat chapel of ease erected
about the year 1700. The mother church of St.
Maughold, is situated near a celebrated promontory,
called St. Maughold's Head. The entrance of the
town is defended by a fort, well planted with
ordnance.
Opposite the Isle of Man, is a little island, called
the Calf of Man about three miles in circuit, and
separated from Man, by a channel about two fur-
longs broad. At one time of the year it abounds
with puffins, and also with a species of duck, by the
English called barnacles, and by the Scots cla/ccs and
solan geese. — An incredible number of all sorts ot
sea-fowl breed about the rocks of this island.
VOL. iv. — NO. 195.
ADDENDA
1? TftT
762
ADDENDA ET CORRIGENDA.
BERKSHIRE.] — In the parish of Wargrave, (Vol. I.
p. 101.) is situated the manor of Bear Place, now,
or lately, the property and residence of Moses
Ximenes, Esq. by whom it was purchased, of the
Hon. Captain Hamilton,, about the year 1780 ;
having been previously in the families of De Grey
and Silver. It is believed to have been anciently the
property of the A' Bears, a family of great antiquity,
and not yet extinct. — Hare-Hatch is also in the
parish of Wargrave.
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE.] — Hartwell House (Vol. I.
p. 156.) will be memorable in the history of this county,
from having been, for many years, the residence of
Louis XVIII. during his exile in England. s
CAMBRIDGESHIRE.] — The parish of Littleport,
four miles North from Ely, is of little note, further
than as having been the scene of some alarming
riots, in the year 1816.
CORNWALL.] — About three o'clock one Sunday
morning, in the latter end of August, 1815 ; the
mansion of William Rashleigh, E,sq. at Menabilly,
(Vol. I. p. 469.) was discovered to be on fire ; and
so rapid was the progress of the names, that before
the fire-engines could be brought from Fowey, the
•western end of the building was entirely consumed.
The engines had made some progress in arresting the
fury of the devouring element, when it was discovered,
that the water in two of the three pumps on the pre-
mises, was exhausted. There then remained no
other mode of preserving any part of this noble
mansion, but by pulling down the centre, which,
with great exertion, was accomplished, and the fire
at length got under. Fortunately, that part of the
building which contains Mr. Rashleigh's fine col-
lection of minerals, was uninjured.
DEVONSHIRE.] — In the month of August, 181 6, that
stupendous undertaking, the tunnel of the Tavistock,
Canal (Vol. II. p. 179.) was " holed" with accuracy.
A line of communication has been thus opened
between the Tavy and the Tamer. The whole
length of driving through the hill is above a mile
and a half, and, in some parts of it, more than 400
feet l>elow the surface.
A plan lias been very recently formed for the
cultivation i>f Dartmoor Forest, (Vol. II. p. 120.)
under the immediate patronage of his present
Majesty, George IV. A Society, or Joint Stock
Company, is to be institute*, over which the Arch-
bishop of Canterbury is to preside ; and 50 vice
presidents, are to be chosai from the merchants of
the City of London.— The >Ian is, further, to have
an extensive capital ; to procure an Act of Incor-
poration, with provisions to settle all claims of
right to pasturage, &c. ; to convert Dartmoor
Prison into a Metropolita) School, to which the
London parishes may sendtheir children, who, in
addition to the common elenents of education, will
be employed in the sever^ processes of preparing
and manufacturing flax ; ad who, when they arrive
at the age of manhood, m
Moor, on lease, to establi
bandry they have been tau
have allotments of the.
themselves in the hus-
it ; the produce of their
own labour, while apprejices, being bestowed on
them, as a capital with which to set out. — The
Forest consists of 60,000 r 80,000 acres ; and there
are 300,000 acres of wasteland, private property, in
its immediate vicinity.— lie School is to be denomi-
nated " The MetropolitaiScliool of Industry ;" and
it is intended to corameno with 2000 children.
GLOUCESTERSHIRE.] — Jt Cheltenham, (Vol. II.
p. 440.) in 1815, upward of 60 new houses were
finished, or commenced Ji proof of the flourishing
state of the place ; and, ^Clifton, (Vol. II. p. 448.)
the residents and visitorraised a very liberal sub-
scription, for the erectiofof a new church.
On the 17th of JulyJ815, the first stone of a
new bridge over the Sey-n was laid at Gloucester j
(Vol. 11. p. p. 453, 458 J and, on the 4th of June
following, in honour othe birth-day of his Ma-
jesty, George III. it vis so far advanced as to be
opened to the public, 'his beautiful structure, in
the building of which rjrc than 6000 tons of storte
were employed, has si;e been finished, and now
igniiicent ornaments of the
forms one of the most
city. It consists of a s
is eighty-seven feet, ai
the spring of the arch, 1
ascent, on each side, is
arch, the span of which
its height from the level of
rteen feet two inches. The
entle ; and the view up the
West-Gate Street, aiuif the surrounding country,
is peculiarly beautiful]
HAMPSHIRE.] — Thelwn of Gosport (Vol. II. p.
510.) is a borough (.tljigh not incorporated) under
the
ADDENDA ET CORRIGENDA.
the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Winchester, who
holds his court-leet and court-baron there once a
year. It has a charter, granted as early as the reign
of Stephen, by which it enjoys the privilege of three
market days weekly, with a fair in May, and another
in October. Under an act of parliament, obtained
in the year 1814, Gosport has been greatly improved
\vith respect to the cleanliness and well paving of
the streets. From its situation as a seaport-town,
and from the different establishments in the neigh-
bourhood, it is a place of great resort as the resi-
dence of naval and military officers on half-pay. —
The old market-house, mentioned in our original
account, was taken down in the year 1811, when
the present structure was finished. This noble build-
ing, which stands at the end of the High Street,
close to the beach of Portsmouth Harbour, contains,
in the upper part, large and commodious apartments,
one of which is used as a town-hall, where the jus-
tices hold their sittings once a week. Its front is
adorned with stone columns, of the Composite order,
and the whole has a grand appearance from the
platform at Portsmouth, and also from vessels
coming into the harbour. Its cost was between
eleven and twelve thousand pounds.
Formerly the parish officers of Portsea, as stated in
our account of that place (Vol. 1 1. p. 523.) were gene-
rally shipwrights, belonging to the docks; and, as they
were always rechosen annually, their appointments
were considered as for life. At present, however,
they are chosen annually from the most respectable
tradesmen in the town. — There is no longer a scarcity
of water here ; but, on the contrary, the town is
abundantly supplied by two companies, the Portsea
Island, and the Farlington water works' companies ;
the former having their immense well, steam engine,
&c. in a place called the White Swan's Field, just
without the fortifications at Portsmouth ; and the
latter supplying the town from excellent streams of
running water from Farlington, about six miles
distant, having a very large reservoir on the side
of Portsdown Hill. These two companies supply
Portsea by means of cast iron pipes which have been
laid down, not only all over the town, but over the
•whole island where water is wanted. — The artificers
of the dock, chiefly live at the Halfway-houses,
Portsea being inhabited generally by retail trades-
men and others, who live by business done on the
•water. — The communication between the towns of
Portsmouth and Portsea is preserved by a bridge
which leads to the Landport Gate, not as before
stated to St. Thomas's Gate. There is a very hand-
some pile of buildings called King's Terrace, situ-
ated opposite the Portsmouth fortifications, fronting
the Glacis, having the figure of his late Majesty,
George III. carved in his robes, standing in a niche
over the centre house. These buildings command
an extensive view of Spithead, the Isle of Wight,
&c. — Portsmouth and Portsea boastof two schools
founded upon Dr. Bell's plan, two handsome build-
ings, raised and supported by subscription, iu which
600 or 700 boys, and a great number of girls, are
educated. Tliere is also one school on the Lan-
casterian plan, in which as many children are in-
structed asin the two former. — On South-Sea Beach,
close by the bathing machines, a handsome little
building has bpen erected for a reading room, &c. —
The white house has long been pulled down ; and
a beautiful building, called the Clarence Hotel, now
occupies its site.
The monument of Admiral Kempenfeldt is not in
Alverstoke church-yard, but in that of Kingston,
which is the parish church of Portsea. The monu-
ment is lofty, and of a pyramidal form, ornamented
with marine trophies, arms, urns, &.c. ; in an oval
compartment, upon the upper part of the pyramid,
in black marble and gold letters, is this inscription: —
" Reader, with solemn thought, survey this grave,
and reflect on the untimely death of ihy fellow mortals ;
and whilst, as a man, a Briton, and a patriot, thou
readest the melancholy narrative, drop a*>car for thy
country's loss."
Underneath is the following inscription : —
" On the 29th clay of August, 1782, his Majesty's
ship the Royal George, being on the heel at Spilhead,
overset and sunk, by which fatal accident about nine
hundred persons were instantly launched into eternity,
among whom was that brave and experienced officer,
Rear Admiral Kempenfeldt. Nine days after, many
bodies of the unfortunate floated, thirty-five of whom
were interred in one grave, near this monument,
which is erected by the parish of Portsea, as a grateful
tribute to the memory of that great commander, and
his fellow sufferers."
Upon a pedestal, in gold letters, is this epitaph : —
" 'Tis not this stone, regretted Chief, thy name.
Thy worth, and merit shall extend lliy fame.
Brilliant achievements have thy name imprest,
In lasting characters on Albion's breast."
The estate of Cam's Hall (Vol. II. p. 5pl.)b.el°»gs
to Dclnie, Esq.
The estate of Strathfield Say, or Stratford Say,
(Vol. II. p. 533.) which is understood to have been
purchased by government, in virtue of a national
grant, for his Grace the Duke of Wellington, con-
sists of 4000 acres. Upon a survey of the timber,
it was found to be worth 170,000/. a sum much
exceeding the duke's expectation, and also beyond
the capital which it was agreeable to him to employ
in the purchase of wood. Government removed this
obstacle, by agreeing to take about 120,000/. worth
of timber for the dock-yards. The demesne is nearly
adjoining, or in the vicinity, of the great estate
of the late Tylney Long, Esq. now the property of
the duke's nephew, W. P. L. P. Wellesley, Esq.
It is also in tue neighbourhood of the large pro-
perty of Lord Longford, a relative of the duchess.
Another circumstance, which gives collateral value
to this territory, is its nearness to the military col-
lege at Sandhurst, the pupils of which will thus
have always in their view the splendid rewards of
one, who has rendered eminent services.
LANCASHIRE.
764
ADDENDA ET CORRIGENDA.
LANCASHIRE.] — The new church, or, more pro-
perly, St. George's Church, in Little Bolton, (Vol.
III. p. 286.) is by far the most stately edifice in
either Little or Great Bolton.— In the Bolton Me-
thodists' Sunday School, from 2000 to 2500 children
are regularly instructed.
SURREY.] — The elegant Bourgeois Gallery, nt
Dulwiuli, (Vol. IV. p. 333.) erected, a few years
ago, after a design by Mr. Soane, presents the
most unique objects of any structure in the king-
dom. It serves at once as a mausoleum of Sir
Francis Bourgeois, and of his friends Mr. and Mrs.
Des Enfans, and as a picture gallery of the finest
specimens of the greatest masters in the various
schools of painting. Such was the desire of its
founder : he left by his last will 10,000/. to build
and secure to the public the exhibition of this gal-
lery, which consists of the prodigious number of
371 pictures, worth at least 50,000/., directing that
an adjoining mausoleum should be provided for the
reception of his own body, and those of his friends
above named. Here are exquisite and even nume-
rous specimens of Leonard! da Vinci, Raphael, Cor-
regio, Andrea del Sarto, Titian, the Carraccis,
Carlo Dolci, Guido, Rubens, Rembrandt, Paul
Potter, Tintoret, Parmegiano, Guercino, Vandyke,
Teniers, Cuyp, Claude, Poussin, Berghem, Wou-
vermaus, and, in short, of almost every master whose
works are desirable in a public collection. The mnu-
soleum is fitted up like a chapel or oratory, and is
a masterpiece of effect. It receives its light from
the roof, through a lanthorn of orange-coloured
glass, which, producing the gloom of candle-light,
augments or creates a solemnity that is highly im-
pressive. The three bodies are deposited in sar-
cophagi, which are placed in recesses ; that of Sir
Francis standing behind an elegant altar-piece.
These noble bequests were made to the excellent
establishment of Dulwich College ; the master, war-
dens, and fellows of which are the executors and
trustees of the donor for the public. The entire
arrangement is indeed a subject for public gratu-
lation. Here is now a permanent gallery of chef
d'auvres for students, bequeathed for their use to
liberal and public-spirited conservators, and situ-
ated within four miles of the metropolis in as inte-
resting a village, and near as beautiful scenery as
any in the kingdom.
YORKSHIRE.] — In the month of February, 1816,
the ancient land-mark, on the coast of Holderness,
Owthom Church, Old Spire, better known by the
name of the Sister Churches, was undermined by
the tide, and fell to the ground, with a tremendous
crash, to the great alarm of the inhabitants of the
village.
GENERAL
GENERAL INDEX
OF THE
NAMES OF PLACES AND PERSONS.
IK Roman Numeral,, i.X. X. and iv. denote the Firtt, Second, Third, and Fourth
Numerals denote the Pages in the respective Volumes.^
; and t/ie AraK
A,
LBBERLEY, Wore. iv. 505.
Abberton, Wore. iv. 5)6.
Abbesford, York, iv. 574.
Abbey Holm, Cumb. i. 555.
Abbotsbury, Dorset. i . 205.
Aber, Carnarvonsh. \\. 631.
Aberaeron Cardigansh ».680.
Aberavon, Glamorgansh. iv. 704.
Aberdaron, Carnarvmsh. iv. 631.
Aberdyfi, Merionethsh. iv. 653.
Aberedwy, Radnorsh. iv. 732.
Aberffraw, Anglesey, iv. 623.
Abergavenny, Monm. iii. 566.
Abergeley, Denbighsh.iv.640.
Abergwily, Carmartliensh. iv. 694.
Aberscir, Brecknocksh. iv. 668.
Aberystwyth, Cardigansh. iv. 680.
Aberystwyth, Monm. iii. 569.
Abingdon, Berks, i. 62.
Abingdon, North, iii. 684.
Abington in the Clay, Camb. i. 206.
Acle, Norf. iii. 642.
Acornbury, Hereford, ii. 568.
Acton, Chesh. i. 293.
Acton, Glouc. ii. 432.
Acton, Middx. iii. 472.
Acton, Suffolk, iv. 274.
Acton Burnwell, iv. 156.
Adams, SirT. \v. 177.
Addenda et Corrigenda, iv. 762.
Addingham, Cumb. i. 557.
Addington, Kent. iii. 113.
Addington, Surrey, iv. 350.
Adelstrop, Glouc. ii. 432.
Adhelm's, Saint, Head, Dorset, ii. 206.
Addlington Hall, iawc. iii. 282.
Agnes, St. Con*, i. 399.
Alban's St. Herts, iii. 7.
Albourne, Wilts, iv. 452.
Aldbury, Herts, iii. 24.
Albyns," Essex, ii. 352.
Alcester, Warw. iv. 396.
Alehester, Oyon. iv. 113.
Alcock, Rev. Thomas, ii. 115.
Alconbury, Hunts, iii. 68.
Aldborough, Suffolk, iv. 311.
Aldburgh, Yorks. iv. 574.
Aldbury, Essex, ii. 352.
Aldburv, Herts, iii. 24.
VOL. IV.
Aldbury, Surrey, iv. 331.
Aldby, Norf. iii. 602.
Alderley, C/i«A. i. 293.
Aldermaston, Herks. i. 65.
A'dersbrook, Essex, ii. 352.
Aldersley, Glouc. ii. 432.
Aid non, Suffolk, iv. 3:9.
Alderton, Wilts, iv. 453.
Aldheld, Korta iv. 574.
Aldford, Chesh. i. 293.
Aldndge, Stay iv. 245.
Aldnngton, Susseic, iy. 381.
Aldstonmoor, Cumb. i. 557.
Aldwincle, A"ori/i ii . 667.
Aldworth, Berks, i. 65.
Aldworth, Richard, i. 89.
Alford, Line. iii. 599.
Alfred, the Great, i. 100.
Alfreton, Derb. ii. 19.
Algaikirk, Line. iii. 599.
Alkerlon, Oxon. iv. 68.
Alkington, Lane. iii. 283.
Allen, Thomas, iv. 251.
Allen, Somers. iv. 194.
Allerton North, Yorks. iv. 568,
Alley, Win. Bishop of Exeter, i. 191.
Allington, Kent. iii. 113.
Allonby, Cumb. i. 558.
Almondsbury, Glouc. ii. 433.
Almondsbury, Yorks. iv. 575.
Alney, Glouc. ii. 433.
Alnmouth, Northum. iii. 703.
Alnwick, Northum. iii. 699.
Alphinglon, Devon, ii. 104.
Alresford, Hants, ii. 497.
Alstoe, Hutl. iv. 134.
Alton, Hants, ii. 497.
Alton, Wilts, iv. 453.
Allringham, Ctiesh. i. 294.
Altyrinnys, Hereford, ii. 568.
Alvechurcb, Wore. iv. 508.
Alveston, irarui. iv. 397.
Alvelon, Sto/^ iv. 260.
Uvingham, Line. iii. 599.
Llvington, Glouc. ii. 433.
Llwalton, Hants, iii. 68.
Amberley, Jkswjr, iv. 367.
mbreys, Essex, ii. 352.
.mersham, Bucks, i. 134.
.mesburv, Wilts, iv. 453.
9H
Amlwch, Anglesey, i». 623.
Ampney, Glouc. ii. 433.
Auipthill, 5eds. i. 10.
Ampton, Suffolk, iv. 316.
Am well, Herts, iii. 24.
Ancastrr, Line. iii. 600.
Ancoat's Hall, Lane. iii. 283.
Andover, //ante. ii. 493.
Andrew, G< orge, iii. 661.
Anglesey, General Description of, iv. 622.
Angmeriiij;, Sussex, iv. 367.
Anlaby, Yorks. iv. 549.
Ansley, Warw. iv. 405.
Anson, Lord, iv. 263.
Anstey, Herts, iii. 25.
Anstey, Christopher, i. 268.
Anstis, John, i. 426.
Ansty, Wilts, iv. 453.
Anthony, St., Corn. i. 399.
Apethorpr, North, iii. 686.
Appleby, Lcic. \v. 350.
Appleby, Wcstm. iv. 431.
Appledore, Kent, iii. 113.
Appledore, Devon, ii. 104.
Appleton, Berks, i. 66.
Appuldurcombe, hie of W. iv. 745, 749.
Apsley Guise, Beds. i. 1 1.
Arbelows, Derb. ii. 19.
Arborfield, Berks, i . 66.
Arbury Hall, Ifarzv. iv. 417.
Am-nfelde, Hereford, ii.568.
Ardingleip.h, Sussex, iv. 381.
Arkwright, Sir Uich. ii. 22.
Annathwaite, Cumb. \. 558.
Armilage, Stuff, iv. 246.
Arrington, Camb.l. 206.
Arsley, Beds. i. 12.
Arthwrit, Cumb. \. 560.
Arundel, Sussex, iv. 367.
Arundell, family of, i. 501.
Arwarton Ha\\, Suffolk, iv. 314.
Ash, Kent, iii. 113.
A?hborne, Derb. ii. 20.
Ashbridge Castle, Herts, iii. 25.
Ashburnham, Susser, iv. 378.
Ashburton, Devon, ii. 104.
Ashby, Line. iii. 600.
Ashby, North, iii. 659.
Ashby, Westm. iv. 433.
Ashby Canons, North, iii. 660.
776
INDEX.
Ashby-de-la-Zouch, Leic. ii:. 350.
Ashcombe, WMs. iv. 453.
Ashe, Devon, ii. 105.
Ashenden, Bucks, i. 135.
Ashford, Derb. ii. 21.
Aslifonl,-AT<;n<, iii. 114.
Asliford, Middx. iii. 472.
Aslifield, Suffolk, iv. 276.
Ashley, Wilts, iv. 453.
Ashinole, Elias, i. 73; iv. 244.
Ashover, Derb. ii. 21.
Ashridgc, Bucks. \. 135.
Ashted Park, Surrey, iv. 338.
Ashlon Clinton, Bucks, i. J35.
Ashton, Tho. ii. 257.
Ashton, Lane. iii. 283.
Ashton Hall, Lane. iii. 283.
Ashton, North, iii. 657.
Ashton, Somers, iv. Ig4.
Ashton, Wilts, iv. 453. -
Ashurst Beacon, Lane. iii. 283.
Ashwell, Rutl. iv. 136.
Ashwell, Herts, iii. 25.
Askern, Yorks. iv, 575.
Askerton, Cumb. i. 560.
Askew, Anne, iii. 453-.
Askham, Westm. iv. 440.
Askrigg, Yorks. iv. 563;
Aslackby, Line. iii. 600.
Aspeden, Herts, iii. 26.
Aspatria, Cumb. i. 560.
Assemlon, Oxon. iv. 112.
Assingdon, Essex, i. 352.
Astbury, Cliesh. i. 2g4.
A>thall, Oxon. i». 64.
Astley, IVarw. iv. 417.
Astley, Wore. iv. 505.
Aston, Glouc. ii. 433.
Aston, Herts, iii. 50.
Aston, North, Oxon. iv. 128.
Aston Park, Salop, iv. 165.
Aston Steeple, Oxon. iv. 128.
Astrop Hall, North, iii. 670.
Astwell, North, iii. 670.
Aswardby, Line. iii. 600.
Athalney, Somers. iv. 194.
Atherstone, Warm. iv. 405.
Atherston, Warn;, iv. 412.
Atherton Hall, Lane. iii. 284.
Attenborotigh, Notts, iv. 12.
Atterbury, Lewis, i. 164.
- Francis, i. 194.
Attleborough, Norf. iii. 639.
Avebury, Wilts, iv. 452.
Avening, Glouc. it. 433.
Aresliam, Notts, iv. 22.
Avington, Berks, i. 66.
Avington, Hants, ii. 498.
Aubrey, John, iv. 413.
Auckland, St. Andrews, Durh. ii. 275.
Auckland, Bishop's, Durh. ii. 275.
Audlem, Chesh. i. 294.
Audley, Staff', iv. 250.
Audley End, Essex, ii. 352.
Audley, Lord, i. 3S4.
Audley, Tim. Lord Chancellor, ii. 374.
Aughton, Yorks. iv. 549.
Aukborough, Line. iii. 600.
Aust, Glouc. ii.433.
Austell, St. Corn. i. 403.
Axbridge, Somers. iv. 194.
Axey, Z.ZTIC. iii. 600.
Axminster, Devon, ii. 105.
Axinouth, Devon, ii. 106.
Axwell Park, Z>wrA. ii. 276.
AycliftV, Durh. ii. 276.
Ayden Castle, North, iii. 730.
Aylesbury, Sucks, i. 136.
Aylcsford, Aercf. iii 114.
AyUliam, Norf. iii. 607.
Aynho, North, iii. 670.
Ayott, Herts, iii. 26.
Aysgarth, Yorks. iv. 563.
Ayston, flu//, iv. 142.
Ay ton, East, Korfo. iv. 564.
Babergh, Suffolk, iv. 274.
Babingly, Norf. iii. 617.
Babraham, Cumb. i. 206.
Babworlh, Notts, iv. 13.
Backwell, Northum. iii. 707*
Bacon, Sir N. iii. 36.
Bacon, Roger, iv. 218.
Badbury Hill, Berks. \. 66.
Badbury Kings, Dorset, ii. 206.
Badcock, Rev. Samuel ii. 178.
Baddesley, Hants, ii. 499.
Baddow, Etta, ii. 354.
Badlesmere, Kent, iii. 115.
Badly, North, iii. 659.
Badminton, Glouc. ii. 434.
Baginton Hall, IVarw.'n. 415.
Bagmoor, Oxon. iv. 68.
Bail Hill, Durh. ii. 276.
Bake, Corn. i. 405.
Baker, George, ii. 126.
Baker, Thomas, i. 230.
Bakewell, Derb. ii. 22.
Bala, Merionethsh. iv. 653.
Baldeston, Notts, iv. 29.
Baldock, Herts, iii. 26.
Ballasally, I. of Man, iv.759.
Balle, Sir Peter, ii. 154.
Balls, Herts, iii. 41.
Ball's Pond, Middx. iii. 505.
Balsall, Warm, iv.410.
Balsham, Camb. i. 207.
, Hugh de, i. 207.
Bambrough, North, iii. 701.
Bampton, Devon, ii. 106.
Bampton, Oxon. iv. 562.
Bampton, Wcstm. iv. 440.
Banbury, Oxon. iv. 64.
Bangor, Carnarvon/in, iv. 63 1 .
Bangor-iscoed, Flintsh. iv. 647.
Bankes, Sir John, i. 583.
Bankes, Lady, ii. 219.
Bansted, Surrey, iv. 338.
Bapchild, Kent, iii. 115.
Bardney, Line. iii. 600.
Barford, Beds. i. 12.
Barford, Oxon. iv. 69, 128.
Barfreston, Kent, iii. 115.
Barham, Kent. iii. 1 16.
Barliam, Suffolk, iv. 277.
Baring, Sir Francis, ii. 187.
Barker, Thomas, iv. 134.
Barking, Essex, ii. 355.
Barking Abbey, Essex, ii. 356.
Barkway, Herts, iii. 27.
Barlaston, Staff, iv. 253.
Barleythorpe, Rutl. iv. 144.
Barlithway, Warto. iv. 398.
Banning, Kent, iii. 116.
Barmouth, Merionethsh. iv. 654.
Barnack, North, iii. 673.
Barnard Castle, Durh. ii. 276.
Baruardiston, Suffolk, iv. 312.
Barn-Elms, Surrey, iv.332.
Barnes, Emanuel, ii. 311.
Barnes, Surrey, iv. 332.
Barnet, Herts, iii. 27.
Barnet, Middx. iii. 472.
Barnham, Suffolk, iv.276.
Barnscar, Cumb. \. 561.
Barnside, Lane. iii. 291.
Barnsley, Yorks. iv. 575.
Barnsley Park, Glouc. ii. 434.
Barnstaple, Devon, ii. 106.
Barnwell, North, iii. 682.
Ban Great, Staff, iv. 245.
Barrett, William, iv.211.
Barrington, (see Hatfield Broad OakJEsscsp
Harrington, Glouc. ii. 434.
Barrington, Vise. i.93.
Barrow, Chesh. \. 294.
Barrow, Leic. iii. 351.
Barrow, Line. iii. 600.
Barrow, Rutl. iv. 136.
Barrow, Suffolk, iv. 316.
Barrowden, Rutl. iv . 146.
Barry Island, Glamorgansh. iv. 705.
Barsham, Suffolk, iv. 318.
Barthomley,' Chesh. i. 294.
Bartlow Hills, Essex, ii. 357.
Barton, Line. iii. 601.
Barton, North, iii. 665.
Barton, Warto. iv. 411.
Barton, Westm. iv. 441.
Barton Seagrave, North, iii. 667.
Basford, Notts, iv. 13.
Basilden, Berks, i. 66.
Basing, Hants, ii. 499.
Basingstoke, Hants, ii. 500.
Basingwerk, Flintshire, iv. 647.
Baskerville, Wore. iv. 515.
Bassaley, Monm. iii. 581.
Bassingbeurn, Camb. i. 207.
Bassingbourne Hall, Essex, ii. 357.
Bastard, Tho. ii. 212.
Bastwick, John, ii. 413.
Batchelor, T.i. 31.
Bate, Dr. Geo. i. 165.
Bateman, William, iii. 637.
Bath, Somers. iv. 194.
Batheaston, Somers. iv. 20?.
Bathford, Swners. iv. 203.
Battersea, Surrey, iv. 332.
Battisford, Suffolk, iv. 278.
Battle, Sussex, iv. 379.
Battle, Brecknocksh. iv. 668.
Battlefield, Salop, iv. 156.
Battlesden, Beds. i. 12.
Bavington, North, iii. 731.
Bayford, Herts, iii. 28.
Bayford, Kent, iii. 116.
Bayley, Dr. iv. 696.
Baynards, Surrey, iv. 331.
Baythorne Hall, Essex, ii. 357.
Beachley, Glouc. ii. 434.
Beaconsfield, Bucks, i. 138.
Beacon Hill, Hants, ii. 513.
Beaminster, Dorset, ii. 207.
Bear Park, Durh. ii. 278.
Bear Place, Berks.
Beauchief Abbey, Derb. ii.23:
Beaudesert, Warw. iv. 396.
Beaufront, Northum. iii. 729.
Beaulieu, Hants, ii. 501.
Beaumanor, Leic. iii. 351.
Beaumaris, Anglesey, iv. 623.
Bebington, Chesh. i. 295.
INDEX.
7G7
Beccles, Suffolk, iv. 318.
Berhampton, Bucks, i. 140.
Beckenhani, Kent, iii. 116.
Becker, Thomas, iii. 127.
Beckforci, Glouc. ii. 434.
Bedale, Yorks. iv. 563.
Bedclington, Surrey, iv. 330.
Beckloes, Thomas, iv. 166.
Betle, ii. 313.
Bedell, William, ii. 396.
Bedfont, Middx. iii. 473.
Bedford, Beds. \. 12.
Bedfordshire, general description of, i. 5.
Bedgebury, Kent, iii. 187.
Bedlington, Northum. iii. 708.
Bedwin, Wilts, iv. 453.
Beechwood, Herts, iii. 28.
Beechworth, Surrey, iv. 346.
BeereFenis, Devon, ii. 107.
Bees, Cumb.i. 561.
Beesthorpe, Notts, iv. 22.
Bemfleet, Essex, ii. 357.
Belin, Afra, iii. 154.
Behnesthorpe. Rutl. iv. 140.
Bekesbourne, Kent, iii. 117.
Bekinsau, John, iv. 456.
Belbroughton, Wore. iv. 508.
Belchamp, Essex, ii. 357.
Belford, Northum. iii. 701.
Bell House, Essex, ii.358.
Bellean, Line. iii. 601.
Bellevue, Hants, ii. 502.
Bellevue House, Essex, ii. 358.
Bellingham, Northum. iii. 727.
Bellistle Castle, Northum. iii. 732.
Belmont, Hereford, ii. 568.
Belmont, Kent, iii. 258.
Belper, Deri), ii. 23.
Belton, Leic. iii. 351.
Belton, Line. iii. 601.
Belton, Rutl. iv. 145.
Belvidere, Kent, iii. 117.
Belvoir, Leic. iii. 351.
Bemerton, Wilts, iv. 454.
Benbow, John, iii. 169.
fiendish, Sir Thomas, ii. 361.
Benefield, North, iii. 682.
Benenden, Kent. iii. 117.
Bengemorth, Wore. iv. 502.
Benhall, Suffolk, iv. 311.
Benham House, Berks, i. 66.
Benington, Herts, iii. 28.
Bensitigton, Oxon. iv. 77.
Benson, ii. 151.
Bentliam, Rev. Jas. i. 248.
Bentinck, Earl of Portland, i. 186.
Bentley, Df.rb. ii. 23.
Bentley, Hants, ii. 502.
Beoly, Wore. iv. 508.
Beoralston, Devon, ii. 107.
Bere Regis, Dorset, ii.207.
Berden, Essex, ii. 358.
Berghoit, Essex, ii. 358.
Bergholt, East, Suffolk, iv. 314.
Berkeley, Glouc. i'i.434.
Berkeley, Earl Glouc. ii. 435.
Berkhamsleil, Herts, iii. 29.
Berkshire, general description of, i. 56.
Berlings, Line. iii. 601.
Bermondsev, Surrey, iv. 333.
Bernard, Edward, North, iii. 658.
Berrington, Hereford, ii. 569.
Berrey Pomeroy, Devon, ii. 108.
Berstead, Sussex, iv. 378.
Berwick, Northum. iii. 703.
Berwick in Elmet, Yorks. iv. 575.
Besils Legh, Berks, i. 66.
Betham, Westm. iv. 436.
Bethersden, Kent, iii. 118.
Bethnal Green, Middx. iii. 473.
Betley, Staff, iv. 250.
Betshanger, Kent, iii. 118.
Betvvs-y Coed, Carnarvonsh. iv. 634.
Beverley, Yorks. iv. 549.
Beverstone, Glouc. ii. 436.
Bevis, Mount, Hunts, ii. 502.
Bewdley, Wore. iv. 505.
Bewcastle, Cumb. i. 562.
Bexley, Kent. iii. 118.
Bibury, Glouc. ii. 436.
Bicester, Oxon. iv. 112.
Bickwear, Glouc. ii. 437.
Bicton, Devon, ii. 108.
Biddlesdon, Bucks, i. 140.
Biddleston, Northum, iii. 711,
Biddulph, S/«/f. iv. 250.
Bidefortl, /?«JOB. ii. 109.
Bideford, War. iv. 397.
Bidston, Chesh. i. 295.
Bidston, JPi'fe. iv. 454.
Bigland, Lane. iii. 234.
Biggleswade, Beds. i. 17.
Bignor, Sussex, iv. 370.
Bilborougli, Notts, iv. 13.
Bilderston, Suffolk, iv. 211.
Bileigh Abbey, £wcr, ii. 359.
Billericay, Essex, ii. 359.
Billingford, Norf. iii. 605.
Belsington, Kent, iii. 118.
Bilsthorpe, Notts, iv. 13.
Bilston, Staff, iv. 254.
Bilton, Warm. iv. 418.
Binbrook, Line. iii. 601.
Binchester, Durh. ii. 278.
Bindon, Dorset, ii. 208.
Binfield, BerAx i. 67.
Binfield, Oxon. iv. 66.
Bing Hill, Essex, 398.
Bingham, Notts, iv. 14.
Bingliam Priory, Norf. iii. 619.
Bingley, Forfo. iv. 575.
Binley, Warw. iv. 418.
Binsey, Oxon, iv. 124.
Birches, Salop, iv. 156.
Birchington, Kent, iii. 250.
Birdbrook, Essex, ii. 359.
Birdingbury, Warw. iv. 426.
BirdlipHill, G/OHC. ii. 436.
Birdsal, Yorks. iv. 549.
Birkenhead, C/ieWi. i.295.
Birkenhead, Sir John, i. 343.
Birling, Kent, iii. 118.
Birmingham, Warw. iv. 407.
Bisbroke, Rutl. iv. 146.
Biscopius, ii. 334.
Bisham, Berks, i. 67.
Bishop Hall, Essex, ii. 359.
Bishopsbourne, Kent, iii. 119.
Bishop's Castle, Salop, iv. 156.
Bishopstone, Wilts, iv. 454.
Bishopton, Durh. ii. 279.
Bisley, Glouc. ii. 436.
Bitham, Line. iii. 601.
Bittern, Hants, ii. 502.
Blaize Castle, Glouc. ii. 436.
Blackbourn, Suffolk, iv. 276.
Blackburn, Lane. iii. 284.
Black Comb, Cumb. i. 563.
Blackdown, Dorset, ii. 209.
Blackenhurst, Wore. iv. 503.
Black Halls, Durh. ii. 279.
Blackheath, A«if, iii. 189.
Blackheath, Surrey, iv. 331.
Blackmore, Dorset, ii. 209.
Blackmore, Essex, ii. 359.
Blackpool, Lane. iii. 285.
Blackrode, Lane. iii. 286.
Blandford, St. Mary, Dorset, ii. 213.
Blandford Forum, Dorset, ii. 209.
Blandford Park, Oxon. iv. 65.
Blatherwick, Northum. iii. 658.
Blagrave, John, i. 88.
Blazey, St. Corn. i. 405.
Blechingley, Surrey, iv. 349.
Bledlow, Bucks, i. 141.
Blencowe Hall, Cumb. i. 562.
Blendon Hall, Kent, iii. 118.
Blenheim, Oxon. iv. 68, 118.
Bienkinsop Castle, Northum. iii. 732.
Bletchingdon, Oxon. iv. 113.
Blelchley, Bucks, i. 140.
Blichling Hall, Norf. iii. 608.
Blisland, Corn. I 405.
Blithburgh, Suffolk, iv. 278.
Blithfield, Staff: iv. 250.
Blithing, Suffolk, iv. 278.
Blockley, Were. iv. 502.
Blofield, Norf. iii. 599.
Blore, .Sta/7. iv. 260.
Bloxham, Oxon. iv. 68.
Blunham, Beds. i. 18.
Bluntisham, Hants, iii. 68.
Blum's Walls, Essex, ii. 359.
Blythe, Notts, iv. 14.
Blythe, South, Northum. iii. 708.
Bobbing, ATenf. iii. 119.
Booking, Essex, ii. 359.
Bockleton, Wore. iv. 506.
Boconnoc, Corn. i. 405.
Boddington, Glouc. ii. 437.
Bodicot, 0-ron. iv. 69.
Bodfach, Montgomerysh, iv. 660.
Bodiey, Sir Thomas, ii. 139.
Bodmin, Corn. i. 408.
Bolam Hall, Northum. iii. 715.
Bolbeck, Northum. iii. 729.
Boldon, Durh. ii. 279.
Boldre, Hants, ii. 502.
Bolingbrooke, Line. iii. 602.
Bolsover, Derb. ii. 23.
Bolton, Lane. iii. 286 ; iv. 764.
Bolton, Northum. iii. 711.
Bonsai, Derb. ii. 25.
Bonchnrch, /. of Wight, iv. 751.
Bookham, Great, Surrey, iv. 338.
Bootle, Cumb. i. 562.
Boreham, Essex, ii. 360.
Borden, AVnf, iii. 119.
Borley, Essex, ii. 360.
Boroughbridge, Yorks. iv. 575.
Borringdon, Devon, ii. 1 12.
Borstall, Bucks, i. 141.
Boscastle, Corn. i. 412.
Boscawen, Admiral, i. 475, 476.
Boscobel House, Salop, iv. 156.
Bosmere and Claydon, Suffolk, iv. 277.
Bossiney, Corn. i. 412.
Boston, Line. iii. 602.
Bosworth, Leic. iii. 353.
Botesdale, Suffolk, iv. 293.
Bothal Castle,' Northum. iii. 716.
Botley, Hants, ii. 503.
INDEX.
Bottesford, Leic. iii. 354.
Baltesford, Line. iii. 6()j.
Boitisham, Camb. i. 207.
Boughrood, Radnor sh. iv. 733.
Boughlon, Kent, iii. 1 19-
Boughton, North, iii. 684.
Boughtoii House, North, iii. 659.
Bourne, Camb. i. 208.
Bourne, Line. iii. 603.
Bourne, East, Sussex, iv.384.
Bourton, Glouc. \\. 437.
Bourton, Great, QJ.OH. iv. 04.
Bow, Dtvon. ii. 112.
Row Bridge, Essex, ii. 360.
Bowdon, Chesh. i.295.
Bower Hall, Essex, ii.36l.
Bowes, York*, iv. 564.
Bourchier, family of, ii. 180.
Bowness, Cumb. i. 563.
Bowood, Wilts, iv. 455.
Bowyer, William, ii. 390.
Box, Wilts, iv. 455.
Boxford, Suffolk, iv. 274.
Boxgrove, Sussex, iv. 373.
Boxley, Kent, iii. 120.
Boxstead, Suffolk, iv. 274.
Boxworth, Cam//, i. 208.
Boyle, Mr. ii. 253.
Boys, William, iii. 166.
Boyton, Suffolk, iv. 319.
Boyton, Wilts, iv. 455.
Braborne, Kent, iii. 121.
Brackley, North, iii. 669.
Bracton de, Henry, ii. 113.
Bradbourne, Kent, iii. 216.
Bradenham, Bucks, i. 141.
Bradensloke Priory, Wilts, iv. 455.
Bradfield, Essex, ii. 361.
Bradford, Wilts, iv. 455.
Bradford, Yorks. iv. 576.
Bradgate, Leic. iii. 355.
Biading, /. of Wight, iv. 752.
Bradley, Chesh. i. 295.
Bradley, Staff", iv. 254.
Bradley, Lclc. iii. 355.
Biadninch, Devon, ii. 112.
Bradon Forest, Wilts, iv. 455.
Bradsale, Dfrb. ii. 25.
Bradshaw, Henry, i. 337.
Bradwell, Buck's. \. 142.
Bradwell, Essex, ii. 361,
Bradley Hall, Durh. ii. 279.
Bradwell Lodge, Essex, ii. 361.
Braganza, Catherine of, i. 181.
Brailsford, Derb. ii. 25.
Braintree, Essex, ii. 361.
Bramber, Sussex, iv. 371.
Bramfield, Suffolk, iv. 279.
Brampton, Cumb. i. 563.
Brampton, Derb. ii. 25.
Brampton, Hereford, ii. 569.
Bramshill, Hants, ii. 503.
Brancaster, Norf. iii. 640.
Brancepelh, Durh. ii. 279.
Brandenburgh House, Middx. iii. 473,490.
Brandesbury House, Middx. iii. 556.
Brandon, Durh. ii. 279.
Brandon, Suffolk, iv. 305.
Brandon, Warw. iv. 418.
Brantfield, Herts, iii. 31.
Brasted, Kent, iii. 121.
Bratton, Devon, ii. 113.
Bratton Castle, Wji/te. iv. 455.
Braughing, Herti.m.3l.
Braunston, Leic. iii. 355.
Braunston, North, iii. 660.
Braunston, Hull. iv. 145.
Hraunton, Devon, ii. 113.
Braxted Lodge, Essex, ii. 36C.
Bray, Berks, i. 6S.
Braybrooke, North, iii. 683.
Brayton Hall, Cuw*. i. 564.
Bray wick Lodge, Berks, i. 68.
Breage, Corn. i. 413.
Breakspear, Middx. iii. 497.
Breakspear, Nicholas de, iii. 43.
Brecknock, Brecknocksh. iv. 668.
Brecknockshire, General Description of,
iv. 665.
Bredgar, Kent, iii. 121.
Breslon, Leic. iii. 355.
Bredon, Wore. iv. 516.
Bivdwardine Castle, Hereford, ii. 569.
Bremhill, Wilts, iv. 455.
Brent, Devon, ii. 113.
Brent, East, Somers. iv. 203.
Brent, South, Snmers. iv. 203.
Brentford, Middx. iii. 473.
Brentwood, Essex, ii. 362.
Brereton, Chesh. i. 296.
Brerewood, Edward, i. 321.
Bretby, Derb. ii. 26.
Breltenham, Suffolk, iv. 291.
Breward, Corn. i. 414.
Brewood, Staff, iv. 238.
Brianstone, Dorset, ii. 213.
Briavele's, St. Glouc. ii. 437.
Bricet, Suffolk, iv. 278.
Brickenden Bury, Herts, iii. 31.
Brickhill, .Bucfo. i. 142.
Brickworth, Wilts, iv. 456.
Bridekirk, Cumb. i. 564.
Bridge, Kent, iii. 121.
Biidgeford, .ZVotts. iv. 15.
Bridgewater, Somers. iv. 203.
Bridlington, Yorks. iv. 550.
Bridport, Dorset, ii. 213.
BrierclirTe, £a?ic. iii. 286.
Brigend, Glamorgansh. iv. 705.
Bridgenorth, Salop, iv. 157.
Bright, Edward, ii. 392.
Brighlhelmstone, Sussex, iv. 382.
Brighton, Sussex, iv. 290.
Bri«htwell, Berks, i. 68,
Brightwell, Oxon. iv. 77.
Brigstock, North, iii. 658.
Brill, Bucks, i. 142.
Brimpsfield, G/owc. ii. 438.
Brimpton, Berks, i. 68.
Brindley, James, ii. 82; iii. 279.
Brington, North, iii. 673.
Brinkburn Priory, Northum. iii. 709.
Bnnkhill, Line. iii. 606.
Brinklow, Wurw. iv. 418.
Bridlington, Somers. iv. 204.
Bristol', Somers. iv. 204.
Brilford, Wilts, iv. 204.
Britton West, Yorki. iv. 596.
Bntwell Hill, Oxon. iv. iii.
Rrixham, Devon, ii. 113.
Brixton, Surrey, iv. 332.
Brix worth, North, iii. 679.
Broad Chalk, Witts, iv. 456.
Broadfield, Suj/olk, iv. 316.
Broadheld Common, Cumb^'i. 564.
Broadlands, Hants, ii. 503.
Broadslairs, Kent, iii. 25Q.
Broadway, Wore. iv. 502.
! Broadwell, Ojron. iv. 63.
Brockdish, Norf. iii. 605.
Brokeniiurst, Hants, ii. 503.
Brocket Hall, Herts, iii. 31.
Brocklesby, Line. iii. 606.
Brockley Hill, Middx. iii. 484.
Brokenborough, Wilts, iv. 456.
Bromborough, Chesh. i. 296.
Bromesberrow, Glouc. ii. 438.
Bromfield, Aen£, iii. 121.
Bromham, Wilts, iv. 456.
Bromley, Kent, iii. 121.
Bromley, Middx. iii. 474.
Bromley, King's, Sta/". iv. 247.
Brompton, Middx. iii. 475.
Brompton, Yorks. iv. 563.
Bromsgrove, Wore. iv. 508. •
Bromwich, Staff", iv. 249.
Bromyard, Hereford, ii. 569.
Broxmore, Wilts, iv. 456.
Brook Green, Middx. iii. 475, 491.
Brook Street, Essex, ii. 362.
Brooke, flu*/, iv. 145.
Brookesby, Leic. iii. 355.
Broome, Kent, iii. 122.
Broome, Suffolk, iv. 293.
Broomholme, Norf. iii. 641.
Brothercross, Norf. iii. 599.
Brotherton, Yorks. iv. 576.
Brough, Derb. ii. 26.
Brough, Westm iv. 433.
Brougham, Westm. iv. 441.
Broughton Castle, O*on. iv. 68.
Broughton, Hants, ii. 503.
Broughton, Hants, iii. 69.
Broughton, North, iii. 680.
Broughton, Lane. iii. 287.
Broughton Hall, Lane. iii. 287.
Brown, Robert, iii. 679.
Browne, Edward, iii. 638.
Browne, William, ii. 152.
Brownsea, Dorset, ii. 214.
Brownsover, Warw. iv. 4!9.
Browsholme, Lane. iii. 287.
Broxbourn, Herts, iii. 31.
Bruerne, Oxon. iv. 74.
Brundish, Suffolk, iv. 2Q4.
Bruton, Somers. iv. 211.
Bryant, Jacob, i. l45;ii. 257.
Brynllys, Brecknocksh. iv. 670.
Bubwith, Yorks. iv. 550.
Buckden, Hants, iii. 69.
Buckenham, New, Norf. iii. 640.
Butkenham, Old, Norf. iii. 640.
Buckfastleigh, Devon, ii. 1 13.
Buckingham, Bucks, i. 142.
Buckinghamshire, general description of,
i. 129.
Buckland, Berks, i. 68.
Buckland, Glouc. ii. 438.
Buckland Monachorum, Devon, ii. 114.
Buckleburv, Berks, i. 60.
Buckler's Hard, Hants, ii. 503.
Bucknall, Staff, iv. 251.
Budeaux, St. Devon, ii. 114.
Budock, Corn. i. 414.
Bndwoi th, Great, Chesh. i. 296.
Budworth, Little, Chesh. i. 297.
Buenos Ayres, Glouc. ii. 438.
Buildwas, Salop, iv. 156,
Builth, Brecknocksh. iv. 671.
Buleer, Sir Francis, i. 478.
Bulford, Wilts, iv. 456.
Bullbairow, Dorset, ii. 214.
INDEX.
769
Bullington, Oxon. iv. 69.
Bui ness, Westm. iv. 439.
Burwell, Notts, iv. 15.
Bunbury, Chesh. i. 298.
Bungaj, Suffolk, iv. 318.
Bunyan, J hn, i. 26.
Burcott, Salop, if. 159.
Burden, Sir Francis, ii. 57.
Burdoswald, Cumb. \. 566.
Bures, Essex, ii. 362.
Bures, Suffolk, iv. 274.
Burfoid, Oron. iv. 62.
Burgh, Camb. \. 209.
Burgh, Cumb. i. 56fi.
Burgh, Line. iii. 606.
Burgh Castle, Suffolk, iv. 308.
Burghill, Hereford, ii. 569.
Burghope House, Hereford, ii. 569.
Burghsted, Essex, ii. 362.
Burian, Com. i. 414.
Burke, Edmund, i. 138.
Burleigh, North, iii. 672.
Burley, North, iii. 672.
Hurley on (he Hill, Hull. iv. 135.
Burnham, Bucks, i. 145.
Burnhall, Dark. ii. 280.
Burnham Thorpe, Norf. iii. 599.
Burnham Westgate, Norf. iii. 599.
Burrow, Leic. iii. 355.
Burrell, Peter, ii. 186.
Burscouo;h, Lane. iii. 287.
Bursledon, Hants, ii. 503.
Burslem, Staff, iv. 251.
Burton, Chesh. i. 300.
Burton, Line. iii. 606.
Burton, Staff, iv. 245.
Burton, Sussex, iv. 370.
Burton Agnes, Yorks. iv. 550.
Burton Constable, Yorks. iv. 550.
Burton Dassel, Warw. iv. 411.
Burton Gate, Line. iii. 606.
Burton in Kendal, Westm. iv. 439.
Burton Lazars, Leic. iii. 356<.
Burton, Robert, iii. 573.
Burton, William, iii. 572.
Burwell, Camb. i. 209.
Burwell Park, Line. iii. 606.
Bury, Hants, iii. 69-
Bury, Lane. iii. 288.
Bury, Suffolk, iv. 281.
Bury House, Hants, ii. 503.
Buscot, Berks. \. 69.
Bushbury, Staff, iv. 254.
Bushey, Herts, iii. 32.
Bushley, Wore. iv. 516.
Butler, Charles, i. 191-
Butler, Joseph, i. 101.
Butley, Suffolk, iv. 311.
Butterby, 'Durh. ii. 280.
Buttenneri1, Cumb. i. 567.
Buttington, Afontgomcrysh. iv. 660.
Buxhall, Suffolk, iv. 315.
Buxton, D'erb. ii. 26.
Buxton, Norf. iii. 608.
Buxtoif, Je<it-dial', ii. 53.
Byrknacre, Essex, ii. 358.
Bydwellty, Momn. iii. 581.
Byrom, John, iii. 319.
Byshe, Edward, iv. 3-i6.
By well, Nortkum. iii. 731.
Cadbury, North, Soniers. iv. 21 1.
Cadbury, South, Somers. iv. 212.
Cader Idris, Merionethsh. iv. 656
VOL. IV.
Cadhay, Devon, ii. 115.
Cadland, Hants, ii. 504.
Caer Kiuin, Carnarvnnsh. iv. 634.
Caergwrle, flintsh. iv. 648.
Caergwys, Flintsh. iv. 648.
Caerleon, Manm. iii. 578.
Caerphili, Glamorgansh. iv. 706.
Caer-sws, Montgowerysh. iv 660.
Caervoran, Northum. iii. 733.
Caerwent, Monm. iii. 570.
Caesar's Camp, Berks, i. 69.
Caister, Naif. iii. FOg.
Caislor, Line. iii. 606.
Caius Dr. i. 218.
Csrtdbeck, Cumb. i. 567.
Caldecot, Monm. iii. 570.
Caldecote Hall, Warw. iv. 406.
Caldetott, /ruf/. iv. 146.
Colder, Cumb. i. 568.
Caldey, Pembroksh, iv. 729.
Calke, A?ri. ii. 29.
Callaly, Northum. iii. 711.
Callington, Corn. i. 416.
Calndon, Wariu. iv. 418.
Calne, Wilts, iv. 456.
Calshot Castle, Hants, ii. 504.
Calstock, Con;, i. 416.
Calston, Wilts, iv. 457.
Calveley, Sir Hugh, i. 298.
Camberwell, Surrey, iv, 333.
Camborne, Corn. i. 418.
Cambridge, Camb. i. 210.
Cambridge, Glouc. ii 438.
Cambridgeshire, general description of, i.
199.
Camden Place, Kent, iii. 160.
Camden Town, Middx. iii. 542.
Camelford, Corn. i. 418.
Cainelford, Lord, i. 406.
Camel, Queen's, Somers. iv. 212.
Cameringham, Line. iii. 606.
Campden, Glouc. ii. 438.
Campsey Ash, Suffolk, iv. 306.
Campion, Beds. i. 18.
Cam's Hall, Hants, ii. 504; iv. 763.
Canevvdon, Essex, ii. 362.
Canfield, Essex, ii. 363.
Canford, Dorset, ii. 214.
Cannington, Somers. iv. 212.
Cannock, Staff', iv. 238.
Canonbury House, Middx. iii. 504.
Canterbury, Kent, iii. 122.
Canton, John, ii. 472.
Canvej Island, Essex, ii. 363.
Capel Cenig, Carnarvonsh. iv. 635.
Capheaton, Northum, iii. 731.
Carbrooke, Great, Norf. iii. 642.
Cardew, Cumb \. 579.
Cardiff', Glamorgansh. iv. 707.
Cardigan, Cardigaush. iv. 681.
Cardiganshire, general description of, iv.
678.
Cardinham, Corn. i. 419.
Cardington, Beds. \. 19.
Cares well, Staff, iv. 260.
Carew, Barnfielci Moore, ii. 173.
C.-irham, Northum. iii. 714.
Cari^brooke Castle, hie of If. iv. 747.
Carisbrooke Priory, Isle of W. iv. 749.
Carles- Work, Derb-. ii. 29.
Carle Ion, /.m1. iii. 356.
Carletoii, Line. iii. 606.
Carleton, Suffolk, iv. 294. .
CarUord, Sw^oM', iv. 290.
9i
Carlisle, Cumb. i. 568.
Carlisle, Old, Cumb. i. 578.
Carlton, Beds. i. 19.
Cariton, Camb. \. 244.
Carlton, Cumb. i. 568.
Carlton, Notts, iv. 15.
Carlton, Vbrta. iv. 576.
Carmarthen, Carmarthensh. iv. 694.
Carmarthenshire, general description of,
iv. 693.
Carnarvonshire, general description of, iv.
630.
Carnarvon, Carnarvonsh. iv. 634.
Cam Bee Hill and Castle, Corn. i. 419.
Carrock Fell, Cumb. i. 579.
Carrowburgh, Northum. iii. 733.
Carshalton, Surrey, iv. 350.
Carter, Elizabeth, iii. 166.
Cartington, Northum. iii. 710.
Case, John, ii. 233.
Caihiobury, Herts, iii. 32.
Catlerton, Westm. iv. 440.
Castell, Edmund, i. 28.
Castell Glas, Monm. iii. 581.
Casterton Brigg, Itutl. iv. 140.
Casterton, LiUle, Kutt. iv. 140.
Castor, Norf. iii. 624.
Castor, North, iii. 671.
Castle Acre, Norf. iii. 617.
Castle Ashby, North, iii. 688.
Castle an Dinas, and Castle Chun, Corn.
ii. 420.
Castle-Camps, Camb. i. 244.
Castle-Carey, Somers. iv. 212.
Castlecarrock, Cumb. i. 580.
Castle-Combe, Wilts, iv. 457.
Casileford, Yorks. iv. 576.
Castle-Head, Lane. iii. 288 ; iii. 334.
Castle-Howard, Yorks. iv. 563.
Castlethorpe, Bucks, i. 145.
Castleton, Derb. ii. 29.
Castle-Ward, Northum. iii. 704.
Catesby, Nort//. iii. 660.
Calhedine, Breckiwcksh. iv. 672.
Catherine Hall, Cumb. i. 227.
Catherine's Hall, Hunts, ii. 504.
Cattely, Line. iii. 607.
Catterick, Yorks. iv. 564.
Catworth, Hants, iii. 69.
Cave, South, Yorks. iv. 561.
Cavendish, William, Duke of Newcastle,
ii. 24.
Cavendish, family of, ii. 31.
Cavendish, Suffolk, iv. 275.
Caversfield, Bucks, i. 145.
Caversham, Oxon. iv. 67.
Cauldron Snout, Durh. ii. 281.
Cause Castle, Salop, iv. 159.
Causey Burne, Durh. ii. 28).
Causey Park, Northum. iii. 716.
Cawood, Yorks. iv. 576.
Caxton, Camb. i. 244.
Cefn Llrs, liudnofsh. iv. 733.
Cellan, Cardigansh. iv. 682.
Cerne Abbas, Dorset, ii. 215.
Cerney, Glouc. ii. 440.
Cerig y Druidion, Denbighsh. iv, 640.
Chaddesden, Derb. ii. 31.
Chaddleworth, Berks, i. 69.
Chadeston Hall, Lane. iii. 288.
Chadlington, Oxon. iv. 73, 75.
Chagford, Devon, ii. 115.
Chalgrove, Oxon. iv. 77.
Chalfont, St. Giles, Bucks, i. 146.
770
INDEX.
Chalford, Glouc. it. 440.
Chalk, Kent, iii. 154.
Chapel C'leeve, Sinners, iv. 313.
Chapel in the i'Yilh, Derb. ii. 31.
Chapman, Dr. John, ii. 257.
Chappel, Dr. W., iv. 25.
Charbotough, Dorset, ii. 213.
Charlbury, Oion. iv. 65.
Charlecote, Warw. iv. 397.
Charles, II. body of, i. 118.
Charlesworth, Derb. ii. 31.
Charlgrave, Beds. i. 19,
Charlton, Kent, iii. 154.
Charlton, North, iii. 670.
Charlton, Great, mils. iv. 466.
Charllon Park, Wilts, iv. 471.
Charmoutl), Dorset, ii. 216.
Chartham, Kent, iii. 155.
Chastleton, Oxon. iv. 74.
Chatham, Kent, iii. 156.
Chalteris, Camb. i. 244.
(.'halterton, Thomas, iv. 210.
Chatsworth, Derb. ii. 31.
Cheadle, Chesh. i. 300.
Cheadle, Staff, iv. 260.
Chebrey, Staff, iv. 251.
Cftelsworth, Suffolk,' \\. 292.
Checkley, Staff, iv, 261.
Cheddar, Somers. iv. 212.
Chedworth, Glouc. ii. 440.
Cheke, Sir John, i. 244.
Chelmorton, Derb. ii. 34.
Chelmsford, Essex, ii. 363.
Chelsea, Middx. iii. 475.
Cheltenham, Glouc. ii. 440 ; iv. 762.
Chepston', Monm. iii. 571.
Cherburgh Camp, Berks, i. 69.
Chersley, Bucks, i. 146.
Chertsey, Surrey, iv. 342.
Chesenlniry, Wilts, iv. 458.
Cliesham, Bucks, i. 146.
Cheshire, general description of, i. 285.
Cheshunt, Herts, iii. 33.
Chester, Chesh. i. 300.
Chester, North, iii. 666.
Chester, Little, Derb. ii. 34.
Chester le Street, Durh. ii. 281.
Cheslers, Great, Northum. iii. 733.
Chesters, Little, Northum. iii. 733.
Chesterfield, Derb. ii. 35.
Chesterford, Essex, ii. 365.
Chesterton, Camb. i. 245.
Chesterton, Hants, iii. 69.
Chesterton, Staff, iv. 253.
Chesterton, Wariv. iv. 413.
Chetwode, Bucks, i. 146.
Cheveley, Camfi. i. 245.
Chew Magna, Somers. iv. S12.
Chichele, Henry, iii. 666.
Chichester, Sussex, iv. 373.
Chicksand, Beds. i. 19.
Chidingtone, A'e»<, iii. 158.
Chidyock, Dorset, ii. 216.
Chigwell, Essex, ii. 365.
Chilcombe, Dorset, ii. 216.
Childerley, Camb. i. 245.
Childrey, /Jer/i*. i. 69.
Chilham, Kent, iii. 159.
Cbillingham Castle, Northum. iii. 712.
Chilliiv.ton, Beds. i. 19.
Chilaiark, Wilts, iv. 457.
Chilton, Bucks, i. 147.
Chilton Foliol, Wilts, iv. 457.
Chingford, £wej, ii. 365.
Chipchase Castle, Northum. iii. 727.
Chippenham, Camb. i. 245.
Chippenliam, Wilts, iv. 457.
Chipping Norton, Oxon. iv. 73-.
Chipping Warden, North, iii. 657.
Chirbury, Salop, iv. 159.
Chirk, Denbighsh. iv. 640.
Chirton, Northum. iii. 707.
Chisenhale, /.awe. iii. 289.
Chislehurst, Kent, iii. 160.
Chistlehampton, Oxon. iv. 76,
Chiswick, Middx. iii. 481.
Cholesbury, Bucks, i. 147.
Cholmondeley, family of, i. 336.
Cholsey, £«•£«. i. 69.
Chorley, Lane. iii. 288.
Chowbenl, Lane. iii. 289.
Christchurch, Hants, ii. 504.
Christclwrch, Surrey, iv. 333.
Christ's College, Ca>«6. i. 228.
Christian-Malford, Wilts, iv. 458.
Christleton, Chesh. i. 323.
Chudleigh, Devon, ii. 115.
Chumleigh, Devon, ii. 116.
Churchdown, G/owc. ii. 443.
Churchill, Wore. iv. 515.
Churchill, Sir Winston, ii. 105.
Churchover, Warvi. iv. 4)9.
Chute, Wilts, iv. 457.
Cirencesler, Glouc. ii. 443.
Clackclose, Norf. iii. 600.
Claines, Wore. iv. 515.
Clandon, East, Surrey, iv. 351.
Clandon, West, Surrey, iv. 351.
Clapham, Surrey, iv. 334.
Claphani, Sussex, iv. 371.
Clapton, Middx. iii. 489.
Clapton, Atort/j. iii. 671.
Clare, Sujfott, iv. 312.
Clarke, Samuel, iii. 638, 669.
Claremont, Surrey, iv. 339.
Clarendon, Wilts, iv. 458.
Clatford, /Fz'to. iv. 458.
Clattercot, Oxon. iv. 65.
Clavering, Norf. iii. 601.
Clavering, Essex, ii. 365.
Claverton, Somers. iv. 213.
Claybury Hall, £wejr, ii. 366.
Claydon, Middle, Bucks, i. 147.
Clayton, Sir J., iv. 349.
Cleahall, Cumb. i. 580.
dear's, Carmarthensh. iv. 696.
Clee and Cleethorpe, Line. iii. 607.
Cleeve, Corn. i. 421.
Cleeve, Bishop's, Glouc. ii. 448.
Cleeve Prior, Wore. iv. 502.
Clement's, Corn. i. 422.
Clent, Staff, iv. 254.
Cleobury, Salop, iv. 159.
Clevedon, Somers. iv. 213.
Clewer, Berks. \. 70.
Cley, Aror/. iii. 626.
Cleyley, North, iii. 657.
Cliburn, Westm. iv. 442.
Cliffe, Kent, iii. 160.
Cliff Regis, North, iii. 686.
Clifford Castle, Hereford, ii. 569.
Clifford, family of, ii. 191.
Clifton, Dorset, ii. 216.
Clifton, Glouc. ii. 448.
Clifton, Notts, iv. 16.
Clifton, Staff, iv. 246.
Clifton, Westm. iv. 442.
Clifton, /Pore. iv. 506.
Clifton, Beds. i. 20.
Clipsham, Rutl. iv. 145.
Clipstone, Notts, iv. 16.
C Iii hero, Lane. iii. 289.
Cliviger, iawc. iii. 290.
Clopton House, Wnrw. iv. 397.
Close House, Northum. iii. 709.
Clovelly, Devon, ii. 116.
Clumber Park, Notts, iv. 16.
Chin, Salop, iv. 159.
Clutterbuck, Richard, ii. 469.
Clyst House, Devon, ii. 1 17.
Cnwclas, Rudnorsh.'w. 734.
Coalbrook, Salop, iv. 159.
Coberley, Glouc. ii. 449.
Cobham, Kent, iii. 161.
Cobham, Surrey, iv. 339.
Cocken Hall, Durh. ii. 281.
Cockermouth, Cumb. i. 580.
Cockeringlon, Zzrac. iii. 608.
Cockersand, Lane. iii. 290.
Cockfield, Durh. ii. 282.
Cockfield, Suffolk, iv. 27J.
Cockridge, Yorks. iv. 576.
Coddington, Notts, iv. 17,
Codford, 07ft*. iv. 458.
Codnor, Derb. ii. 36.
Codsall, Staff, iv. 254.
Coed y Cymmer, Brecknockih. iv. 67?.
Cogges, Oxon. iv. 125.
Coggeshall, Essex, ii. 366.
Cokaine, family of, ii. 20.
Cokcle Park Tower, Northum. iii. 716.
Coke, Sir Edward, i. 171.
Colan, Corn. i. 423.
Colchester, Essex, ii. 366.
Coldred, Kent, iii. 162.
Cole, Rev. William, i. 261.
Coleby Hall, Line. iii. 608.
Colemore, Hants, ii. 506.
Coleshill, Berks, i. 70.
Coleshill House, Berks, i. 70.
Colford, Glouc. ii. 449.
Colleur End, Oxon. iv. 78.
Collier, Jeremy, i. 264.
Collier, John, 'Lane. iii. 330.
Collingbourne, Wilts, iv. 458.
Collingham, North, Notts, iv. 17,
Collingham, Notts, iv. 17.
Collingtree, North, iii. 687.
Collingwood, Baron, Northum. iii. 725.
Collipriest House, Devon, ii. 117.
Colmworth, Beds. i. 20.
Colnbrook, Bucks, i. 147.
Colne, Hants, iii. 69.
Colne, Lane. iii. 291.
Colrie, Earls, Essex, ii.' 373.
Colne, Engaine, Essex, ii. 374,
Colne Park, Essex, ii. 374.
Colneis, Suffolk, iv. 291.
Colney, Norf. iii. 626.
Colney Hatch, Middx. iii. 473.
Colney House, Herts, iii. 49.
Colsterworth, Line. iii. 608.
Colston, Notts, iv. 18.
Cottenham, Camb. \. 246.
Columb Major, Corn. i. 423.
Columb Minor, Corn. i. 424.
Columpton, Devon, ii. 117.
Colwick, Notts, iv. 18.
Colyton, Devon, ii. 117.
Combe, Hereford, ii. 570.
Combe, ATenf, iii. 189.
Combe Abbey, Warw, iv. 418.
INDEX.
771
Comberton, Camb. \. 246.
Combermere Abbey, Chesh. i. 322.
Comberwell, Great", Wilts, iv. 466.
Comb-Martin, Devon, ii. 118.
Compton, Devon, ii. 118.
Compton Basset, Wilts, iv. 459.
Compton Chambeilayne, Wilts, iv. 454.
Compton, Long, Wurw. iv. 41 1.
Compton Murdak, Wurw. iv. 412.
Compton Wyngate, Warw. iv. 1 1 .
Conclora, Corn. i. 424.
Congleton, Cheslt. i. 322.
Congreve, Staff, iv. 253.
Congham, Nor/, iii. 618.
Coningshead, Lane. iii. 291.
Conington, Hants, iii. 71.
Conisbrough, Yorks. iv. 576.
Coniscliffe, Z)Mr/«. ii. 282.
Constanline, Corn. i. 424.
Cook, Captain, Yorks. iv. 568.
Cooke, Anthony, Essex, ii. 399.
Copeland Castle, Northum. iii. 7 1 3.
Coopersale, Essex, ii. 374.
Copford Hall, Essex, ii. 374.
Copthorneand Effingham, Surrey, iv. 337.
Coquetdale, Northum. iii. 709.
Coram, Thomas, ii. 233.
Corby, Cumb. \. 581.
Corby, North, iii. 658.
Corby, Line. iii. 608.
Corbridge, Northum. iii. 730.
Corfe Castle, Dorset, ii. 216.
Coriniensis, Ricardus, ii. 448.
Corney House, Middx. iii. 482.
Cornhill, Ditrh. ii. 282.
Cornhill, North, iii. 725.
Corntown, Glamorgansh. iv. 712.
Cornwall, general description of, i. 368.
Cornwall, James, ii. 589.
Cornwall, Oion. iv. 74.
Corringham, Essex, ii. 375.
Corse, Glouc. ii. 449.
Corsham, Wilts, iv. 459.
Corsica Hall, Sussex, iv. 387.
Corton, Suffolk, iv. 308.
Corwen, Aferionethsh. iv. 654.
Cowes, East, /. of Wight, iv. 753.
Cowes, West, /. of Wight, iv. 754.
Cosford, Suffolk, iv. 291.
Cosin, John, Norf. iii. 638.
Cossal, Notts, iv. 18.
Costessy Hall, Norf. iii. 6l4.
Coleridge, Wore. iv. 515.
Cotgrave, Notts, iv. 45.
Cotham, Zz'nc. iii. 608.
Cottentock, North, iii. 686.
Cottesmore, Hull. iv. 136.
C'ottingham, ybnfo. iv. 550.
Cotton, Robert, iii. 71.
Covehilhe, Suffolk, iv. 27Q.
Coveney, Camb. i. 246.
Covenham, Line. iii. 608. .
Coventry, Wartu. iv. 400.
Coughton, Wurw. iv. 396.
Coulston, Wilts, iv. 459.
Courlenay, family of, ii. 174.
Courlenay, William, ii. 140.
Courtenham, North, iii. 688.
Courtfield, Hereford, ii. 570.
Coward, William, i. 84.
Cowbridge, Glumorgansh. iv. 708.
Cowfold, Sussex, iv. 371.
Cowley, Middx. iii. 483.
Cowley, Hannah, ii. 187,
Cowling, Kent, iii. 162.
Cowpers, family of, i. 321.
Cowthorpe, Yorks. iv. 576.
Cox, Dr. Bishop of Ely, i. 187.
Coxhall, Hereford, ii. 570.
Coxheatb, Kent, iii. 162.
Coxwell, Great, Berks, i. 70.
Craggs, James, i. 180.
Cramlms'lon, Northum. iii. 705.
Cranbourne, Dorset, ii. 220.
Cranbrook, Kent, iii. 162.
Cianbury House, Hants, ii. 506.
Cranfield, Beds. i. 20.
Cranford, Middx. iii. 482.
Cranford Bridge, North, iii. 667.
Cranstock, Com. i. 424.
Crasswell Priory, Hereford, ii. 570.
Craster, Northum. iii. 703.
Crawley, North, Bucks, i. 148.
Cray, Kent, iii. 163.
Crayford, Kent, iii. 163.
Creake Abbey, Norf. iii. 600.
Creake, South, Norf. iii. 600.
Credenhill, Hereford, ii. 570.
Credilon, Devon, ii. 118.
Creeck, Thomas, ii. 212.
Creed, Corn. i. 425.
Creeling, Suffolk, iv. 278.
Crendon, Bucks, i. 148.
Cressey Hall, Line. iii. 608.
Crossing Temple, Essex, ii. 375.
Crewe Hall, Chesh. i. 324.
Crewkerne, Somers. iv. 213.
Crickeilh, Carnarvomh. iv. 637.
Crickhowell, Brecknocksh. iv. 672.
Cricklade, Wilts, iv. 459.
Croft Castle, Hereford, ii. 570.
Crofton Place, Cumb. i. 582.
Croglin, Cvmb. i. 583.
Croke, Sir George, i. 147.
Cromer, Norf. iii. 606.
Cromford, Derb. ii. 36.
Cromwell, Oliver, iii. 79.
Cromwell, Sir Oliver, i. 321.
Croomb Bank, Kent, iii. 249.
Cropredy, Oxon. iv. 65.
Cropthorne, Wore. iv. 502.
Croxall, Samuel, iv. 673.
Crosby, Brass, ii. 328.
Crosby-Ravensworlh, Westm. iv. 442.
Cross, Si. Hants, ii. 506.
Crosthwaite, Cumb. i. 583.
Crowan, Corn. i. 425.
Crowhurst, Sussex, iv. 379.
Crowle, Line. iii. 608.
Crowle, Were. iv. 508.
Crowland, Line. iii. 60S.
Croughlon, North, iii. 669-
Crousley Park, Oxon. iv. 67.
Croxdale Hall, Durh. ii. 282.
Croxden, Staff", iv. 261.
Croxton, Norf. iii. 622.
Croyclon, Surrey, iv. 350.
Crudwell, Wilts, iv. 460.
Cruxeaston, Hants, ii. 508.
Cuckfield, Sussex, iv. 338.
Cuddesden, Oxon. iv. 70.
Cuddington, Surrey, iv. 338.
Cuffnell's, Hants, ii. 508.
Culcombe, Somers. iv. 213.
Culford, Suffolk, iv. 277.
Culham, Oxon. iv. 76.
Cumberland, general description of, i. 523.
Cumner, Berks, i. 71.
Cumrew, Cumb. i. 583.
Cumwhitlon, Cumb. i. 583.
Cunningham, Afrw;f. iii. 638.
Curtis, William, ii. 498.
Curwen, family of, i. 6! 7.
Curzon, family of. ii. 65.
Cutcombe, Somers. iv. 212.
Ciithbert, St. i. 569.
Cnttleston, Staff, iv. 238.
Cynwil Gaeo, Carmarthensh. iv. 69P.
Dacre, Cumb. i. 584.
Dacre, family of, i. 560.
Dagenham, Essei, ii. 375.
Dailstord, Wore. iv. 502.
Dale Abbey, Derb. ii. 37.
Dallington, North, iii. 673.
Dalslon, Cumb. i. 584.
Dalston, Middx. iii. 489.
Dallon, Mrs., i. 257.
Dallon, Lane. iii. 291.
Danbury, Essex, ii. 375.
Danebury Hill, Hants, ii. 508.
Dandelion, Kent, iii. 252.
Danson Hill, Kent, iii. 118.
Dantsey, Wilts, iv. 460.
Darenl, Kent, iii. 164.
Darlaston, Staff, iv. 246.
Darley, Derb. ii.39.
Darley Abbey, Derb. ii. 39.
Darlington, Durh. ii. 282.
Dartfotd, Kent, iii. 164.
Darlington, Devon, ii. 119.
Darlmouth, Devon, ii. 121.
Dartmoor Foresl, Devon, ii. 120 ; iv, 76?.
Darwin, Charles, iv. 18.
Darwin, Dr. Erasmus, ibid.
Dalchet, Bucks. \. 148.
Davenanl, Sir W., iv. 110.
Davenham, Chesh. i. 324.
Davenlry, North, iii. 660.
David's, St. Pembrokesh. iv. 718.
Daries, John, ii. 588.
Davis, Sir John, i. 83.
Davies, Miles, iv. 648.
Davington, Kent, iii. 165.
Davy, Sir Humphrey, i. 471.
Dawlish, Devon, ii. 122.
Day, Mr., ii. 378.
Day, Thomas, i. 102.
Deal, Kent, iii. 165.
Dean, Beds. i. 20.
Dean, Glouc. ii. 449.
Dean, Liltle, Glouc. ii. 450.
Dean, Michael, Glouc. ii. 450.
Dean, West, Wilts, iv. 490.
Deane, Kent, iii. 264.
Debden Hall, Essex, ii. 376.
Debenham, Suffolk, iv. 318.
Decuman's, Si., Somers. iv. 214.
Deddington, Oxon. iv. 123.
Dedham, Essex, ii. 376.
Deene, North, iii. 658.
Deeping, Line. iii. 611.
Deerhursl, Glouc. ii. 450.
Degge, Simon, iv. 262.
Delaney, Mrs., iv. 459.
Delapre, North, iii. 687.
Denbigh, Denbighsh. iv. 641.
Denbighshire, general description nf, iv.
639.
Dene, Kent, iii. 167.
Denham, Bucks, i. 148.
Dennington, Suffolk, iv. 294.
772
INDEX.
Dennis, Hants, ii. 508.
Dent, York*, iv. 577.
Demon, Hants, iii. 71.
Demon, Kent, iii. 167.
Denlon, Line. iii. 611.
Demon, Northum. iii. 709.
Denver, Norf. iii. 601.
Depden, Suffolk, iv. 313.
Deptford, Kent, iii. 167.
Derby, Derb. ii. 40.
Derbyshire, general description of, ii. 3.
Dereham Abbey, Norf. iii. 601.
Dereham, Glouc. ii. 450.
Derlham, East, North, iii. 628.
Dernliall, Chesh. i. 325.
Detling, Kent, iii. 170.
Devil's Bridge, Cardigansh. iv. 682.
Devil's Cave, De.rb. ii.48.
Devil's Ditch, Camb. \. 246.
Devizes, Wilts, iv. 460.
Devonshire, general description of, ii. 94.
Devonshire, family of, ii. 33.
Dewlish, Dorset, ii. 221.
Dewsbury, Yorks. iv. 577.
Dibdin, Hunts, ii. 508.
Digby, Sir Kenelm, i. 153.
Digswell, Herts, iii. 33.
Dillorn, Staff, iv. 261.
Dilston Hall, Northum. iii. 730.
Dinas Mowddwy, Merionethsh. iv. 654.
Dingley Hall, North, iii. 658.
Dinham, Sir John, i. 419.
Dinsdale, Durh. ii. 283.
Dinerth, Flintsh. iv. 649.
Dinsley, Herts, iii. 33.
Dinton, Bucks. \. 149.
Dinton, Wilts, iv. 460.
Diss, Norf. iii. 603.
Ditchley, Oxon. iv. 126.
Dobson, ii. 179.
Dodbrooke, Devon, ii. 123.
Dodd, Dr., i. 216 ; iii. 605.
Doddington, Camb. i. 247.
Doddingtree, Wore. iv. 505.
Dodford, North, iii. 603.
Doddleston, Cltesh. i. 324.
Dodneis, Suffolk, iv. 314.
Dodsley, Robert, iv. 25.
Dogmael's, St., Pembrokesh. iv. 722.
Doginersfieicl Park, Hants, ii. 508.
Dolgellen, Merionethsh. iv. 655.
Dolwyddelan, Carnarvonsh. iv. 637.
Dominick, Corn. i. 425.
Doncasler, Yorks. iv. 577.
Douhead, Wilts, iv. 460.
Donningion Castle, Berks, i. 71.
Donnington, Line. iii. 611.
Dorchester, Dorset, ii. 221.
Dorchester, Oion. ii. 75.
Dorchester, Countess of, ii. 67.
Dore Abbey, Hereford, ii. 570.
Doria, Andrew, ii. 317.
Dorking, Surrey, iv. 355.
Dorsetshire, general description of, ii. 201.
Dorston, Hereford, ii. 571.
Dovaston, John, iv.!165.
Dove Dale, Derb. ii. 51.
Dover, Kent, iii. 170.
Dover Court, Essex, ii. 376.
Dowdeswell, Glouc. ii. 450.
Down Ampney, Wilts, iv. 462.
Downe, Kent, iii. !79.
Downham, Camb. i. £47.
Downham, Dr. Hugh, ii. 159.
Downham, Norf. iii. 601.
Downham, Suffolk, iv.305.
Downing, Flintsh. iv. 652.
Downs, Kent, iii. 179.
Downton, Hereford, ii. 571.
Downton, Wilts, iv. 462.
Douglas, /. of Man, iv. 759.
Drake, Sir Francis, ii. ISO.
Drax, Yorks. iv. 578.
Draycot, Wilts, iv. 462.
Drayton, Middx. iii. 483.
Drayton, Salop, iv. 189.
Drayton, Staff, iv. 246.
Drayton Beauchamp, Bucks, i. 149.
Drayton House, North, iii. 669.
Driffield, Yorks. iv. 550.
Drinkstone, Suffolk, iv.316.
Droitwich, Wore. iv. 509.
Dronfield, Derb. ii. 52.
Drum burgh, Cumb. i. 585.
Drystoke, Rutl.iv. 145.
Duck, Arthur, ii. 145.
Duckenfield, Chesh. i. 325.
Dudley, Wore. iv. 510.
Dudley Castle, Staff, iv. 249.
Dudley, John, iv. 262.
Duffield, Derb. ii. 52.
Dufton, Westm. iv. 433.
Dugdale, Sir W., iv. 407.
Dulham Hall, Suffolk, iv. 313.
Dullingham, Camb. i. 247.
Duloe, Corn. i. 425.
Dulverton, Somers. iv. 214.
Dulwich, Surrey, iv. 333, 764.
Dumford, Wilts, iv. 463.
DunaI-Mil!-Hole, Lane. iii. 292.
Dunchurch, Wanv. iv. 419.
Duncton, Sussex, iv. 370.
Dunham Massey, Chesh. i. 326.
Dunkeswell, Devon, ii. 123.
Dunmow, Essex, ii. 376.
Dunkinfield, Lane. iii. 292.
Dunston, Northum. iii. 703.
Dunston, North, iii. 673.
Dunston, 5<o^. iv. 238.
Dunstaple, Beds. i. 20.
Dunston, Line. iii. 612.
Dunstonbrough, Northum. iii. 703.
Duntsborne, Glouc. ii. 450
Dunwich, Suffolk, iv. 279.
Durham, DwrA. ii. 284.
Durham, general description of, ii. 270.
Durham, Old, Durh. ii. 283.
Dunington, Wilts, iv. 463.
Dursley, Glouc. ii. 450.
Dutton, Chesh. i. 326.
Duxburv Hall, Lane. iii. 292.
Duxford", Camb. i. 248.
Dwygyfylchi, Carnarvonsh. iv. 637.
Dymock, Glouc. ii. 451.
Dyer, John, iv. 699.
Dynmore Hill, Hereford, ii. 572.
Eagle, Line. iii. 612.
Eaglehurst, Hants, ii. 509.
Ealand, Yorks. iv. 578.
Baling, Middjc. iii. 483.
Earnshaw, Lawrence, i. 340.
Easeby, Yorks. iv. 564.
Easingwolcl, Yorks. iv. 565.
East, Rutl. iv. 138.
R;i>4bourne, Sussex, iv. 377.
Eastbury House, Essex, ii. 377.
Eastbury, Dorset, ii. 224.
Eastchurch, ATenf, iii. 243,
Eastcot, Middi iii. 543.
Eastham, CA«/f. i. 328.
Eastham, Wore. iv. 506.
Eastnor, Hereford, ii. 572.
Easton, Essex, ii. 377.
Easton, Suffolk, iv. 306.
Easton-Grey, JFi//s: iv. 463.
Easton, Mauduit, North, iii. 665.
Easton Neston, North iii. 657.
Easton-Presse, Wilts, iv. 463.
Easton, in Gordano, Somers. iv. 214.
Eastry, Kent, iii. 179.
Eastwell, Kent, iii. 179.
Eastwick, Herts, iii. 33.
Eastwood, Notts, iv. 18.
Eaton, C/i«A. i. 326.
Eaton, Hereford, i. 572.
Eaton, Oxon. iv. 70.
Eaton, Sto/F. iv. 238.
Eaton Brag, Beds. i. 25. !
Ebberston, Yorks. iv. 564.
Ebchester, Durh. ii. 301.
Eccles, Lane. iii. 292.
Eccleshall, Staff, iv. 251.
Eccleston, Chesh. i. 329.
Eching Street, Kent, iii. 179.
Ecton Hill, Staff, iv. 263.
Ecton House, North, iii. 665.
Edale, Der&. ii.53.
Eddestone, Northum. iii. 702.
Eddington, Wilts, iv. 463.
Eddisbury, C/i«/(. i. 329.
Eden, Castle, D«r/(. ii. 301.
Eclenhall, Cumb. \. 585.
Edenham, Line. iii. 612.
Edgcote House, North, iii. 657.
Edgcumbe, family of, ii. 157.
Edgcumbe, Mount, Devon, ii. 156.
Edgware, Middx. iii. 484.
Edithweston, Rutl. iv. 140.
Edlesborough, Bucks, i. 149.
Edlingham Castle, Northum. iii. 711.
Edmond Castle, Cumb. i. 585.
Edmonds, Sir Ths. ii. 166.
Edmonton, Middx. iii. 484.
Edmunds, Bryan, Wilts, iv. 490.
Edward, (King of the West Saxons) ii. 2 1 8.
Edwards, George, ii. 382.
Edwalton, Notts, iv. 18.
Edwardston, Suffolk, iv. 275.
Edwinstone, Notts, iv. 18.
Edystone, Devon, ii. 123.
Eggerdon Camp, Dorset, ii. 224.
Egglescliff, Durh. ii. 301.
Eggleston, Durh. ii. 302.
Egginton, Derb. ii. 53.
Egham, Surrey, iv. 343.
Egleton, Hutl. iv. 145.
Eglashaile, Corn. i. 426.
Eglwys Newydd, Cardigansh. iv. 683.
Eglwys Rhos, Carnarvonsh. iv. 637.
Egremont, Cumb. i. 585.
Elden Hole, Derb. ii. 53.
Elford, Staff, iv. 246.
Elham, Kent, iii. 180.
Eling, Hants, ii. 509.
Elkstone, Glouc. ii. 451.
Ellenborough, Cumb. i. 586.
Ellesborough, Bucks, i. 149.
Ellesmere, Salop, iv. 160.
Ellingham, Hants, ii. 509.
Ellinghani, Northum. iii. 701.
Elliot, Sir Thomas, i. 244.
INDEX.
77:3
Elmbriclge, Surrey, iv. 339.
Elmham, North, Norf. iii. (327.
Elmley Castle, Wore. iv. 503.
Elmsett, Suffolk, iv. 292.
Elmswdl, Suffolk, iv. 277.
Elrfllon, Derb. ii. 53.
Elsclon, Northum. iii. 726.
Elsfiehl, Oion. iv. 70.
Elsliam, Line. iii. 612.
Elslack, Yorks. iv. 578.
Elstob, flurA. ii. 302.
JElslon, Notts, iv. 18.
Elstow, Beds. i. 26.
Elstree, Herts, iii. 33.
Eltham, Kent, iii. 180.
Eltisley, Cambridge, i. 248.
Elton, //ante. iii. 72.
Elvaston, Derb. ii. 55.
Elvetham,//ante, ii. 509.
Elvidon, Suffolk, iv. 305.
Elwes, family of, iv. 313.
Ely, Camb. i. 248.
Embleton, Northum. iii. 707.
Emerson, William, ii. 311.
Empingham, Hull. iv. 138.
Empson, Sir Richard, iii. 685.
Emsworth, Hants, ii. 509.
Enborne, Berks, i. 72.
Encombe, Dorset, ii. 224.
Endellion, Corn. i. 426.
Enfield.McWr. iii. 485.
Englebert, William, ii. 252.
Englefield, Berks, i. 72.
Enoder, Cora. i. 427.
Ensham, Oxon. iv. 124.
Enstone, Oion. iv. 75-
Enville, Staff', iv. 254.
Eperston, Notts, iv. 19.
Epping, Essex, ii. 378.
Epping Forest, Essex, ii. 378.
Epsom, Surrey, iv. 338.
Epworlh, Line. iii. 612.
Erdesley, Hereford, ii. 572.
Erdington, Salop, iv. 160.
Erith, Kent, iii. 181.
Erith, //ants. iii. 72.
Erme, Corn. i. 427.
Erpingham, Norf. iii. 605.
Erpingham, South, Norf. iii. 607.
E/th, Corn. i. 427.
Escot House, Devon, ii. 126.
Escirich, Yorks. iv. 551.
Eslier, Surrey, iv. 340.
Eslington, Northum. iii. 711.
Essendine, flu*/, iv. 139.
Essex, general description of, ii. 342.
Estratunas, Norf. iii. 603.
Estwaite, Lane. iii. 293.
Ethelfreda, i. 301.
EthHwold, ii. 285.
Etherydge, George, Oxon. iv. 114.
Eton, Bucks, i. 150.
Etwall. Derb. ii. 56.
Evall, Corn. i. 427-
Evans, Caleb, Homers, iv. 211.
Evelyns, Surrey, iv. 356.
Everingham, Yorks. iv. 551.
Evershot, Dorset, ii. 225.
Everton, Hunts, iii. 72.
Everlon, Lane. iii. 293.
Everton, Notts, iv. 19.
Evesham, Wore. iv. 503.
Everley, Wilts, iv. 463.
Evington, Kent, iii. 181.
VOL. IV.
Evoy, Miss, iii. 312.
Eugene of Savoy, Prince, i. 181.
Euston, Suffolk, iv. 277.
Ewe, Corn. i. 427.
Ewelme, Oxon. iv. 76.
Ewell, Kent, iii. 181.
Ewell, Surrey, iv. 338.
Ewias, Monm. iii. 566.
Ewshot, Hants, ii. 509.
Exbury, Hants, ii. 509.
Exeter, Devon, ii. 126.
Exford, Somers. iv. 215.
Exminster, Devon, ii. 139.
Exmouth, Devon, ii. 140.
Exning, Suffolk, iv. 305.
Exton, flu*/, iv. 138.
Eyam, Derb. ii. 56.
Eye, Suffolk, iv. 293.
Eykeriiig, Notts, iv. 19.
Eynesford, A'enf, iii. 181.
Eynsbiiry, Hunts, iii. 72.
Eynsford, Norf. iii. 608.
Eythorne, Kent, iii. 181.
Eywood, Hereford, ii. 572.
Eyworlh, Beck. i. 27.
Foelix Hall, Essex, ii. 379.
Pagan's, Glamorgansh. iv. 708.
Fairfielcl, Lane. iii. 293.
Fairfield, Somers. iv. 215, 223.
Fairford, Glouc. ii. 451.
Fairlee, Isle, of W. iv. 753.
Fairleigh, Wilts: iv. 464.
Fairlop Oak, Essex, ii. 378.
Fairwell, Staff', iv. 246.
Fairy Hill, isle ofW. iv. 753.
Fakenham, Norf. iii. 618.
Fakenham, Suffolk, iv. 277.
Faley Court, Hereford, ii. 572.
Falkland, Lord Viscount, i. 230.
Faikncr, Mr., iv. 516.
Falkner, Thomas, iii. 320.
Falmouth, Corn. i. 428.
Fareham, Hants, ii. 509.
Faringdon, Berks, i. 73.
Faringdon Hill, Berks, i. 74.
Farle, Beds. i. 27.
Farleigh, Kent, iii. 181.
Farley, Somers. iv. 215.
Farley, Wilts, iv. 464.
Farmington, Glouc. ii. 453.
Farnborougl), Warvi. iv. 41 1 .
Farndon, Chesh. i. 329.
Farnham, Surrey, iv. 340.
Farnham Royal, Bucks, i. 151.
Farningham, Kent, iii. 181.
Farrer, Rev. John, ii. 337.
Farringdon, Devon, ii. 140.
Farthingstone, North, iii. 661.
Faversham, Kent, iii. 182.
Faulkbourne Hall, Essex, ii. 372.
Fawley, Bucks, i. 152.
Fawsley, North, iii. 659.
Featherstonehaugh Castle, Northum.
732.
Featherstonhaugh, family of, i. 593.
Feckenham, Wore. iv. 510.
Felbrigge, Norf. iii. 606.
Felis, Lane. iii. 293.
Felixton, Suffolk, iv. 291.
Fell, Dr. John, i. 79.
Felmersham, Beds. i. 27.
Feltham, Middx. iii. 487.
Felton Hall, Northum. iii. 709.
9*.
Felton, West, Sflfop, iv. 178.
Feoke, Cora. i. 434.
FerribrUlae, Yorks. iv. 578.
Ferriby, North, Yorks. iv. 560.
Fern Hill, Isle of W. iv. 753.
Ferwgg, CarJiiyinsh. iv. 684.
Festiniog, Afcrionethsh. iv. 655.
Fielding, Henry, iv. 218.
Filey, Yorfo. iv. 551.
Finch, Margaret, iii. 116.
Fincliale, Durh. ii. 302.
Finchley, Middx. iii. 487.
Findon, Sussex, iv. 371.
Findon, North, iii. 668.
Fineshade, North, iii. 659.
Fingest, Bucks, i. 152.
Finningley, Notts, iv. 19.
Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, i. 229.
Fisher, Samuel, iii. 678.
Fishgard, Pembrokesh. iv. 722.
Fiskerton, Notts, iv. 19.
Fitz Alan, Henry, Earl of Arundel, ii. 317.
FSzherbert, family of, ii. 73.
Fitz Walters, Essex, ii. 379.
Fladbury, Wore. iv. 504.
Flamborough, Yorks. iv. 551.
Flamstead, Herts, iii. 34.
Flamsted, John, ii. 48.
Flaxley, Glouc. ii. 453.
Fleet, Line. iii. 612.
Fleet House, Devon, ii. 141.
Flegg, East, Norf. iii. 609.
Flegg, West, Norf. iii. 609.
Fletcher, Sir Henry, i. 580.
Fletton, Hants, iii. 72.
Flint, Flintsh. iv. 649.
Flintham, Notts, iv. 19.
Flintshire, general description of, iv. 645.
Flitcham Priory, Norf. iii. 618.
Flitton, Beds. i. 27.
Flixton, Suffolk, iv. 308,319.
Flookborough, Lane. iii. 299.
Flore, North, iii. 674.
Flower's Barrow, Dorset, ii. 225.
Fluskew Common, Cumb. i. 587.
Folkestone, Kent, iii. ;84.
Folkingham, Line. iii. 612.
Fonlhill, Wilts, iv. 464.
Foote, Samuel, i. 510.
Ford, Devon, ii. 141.
Ford, Kent, iii. 185.
Ford Abbey, Devon, ii. 141.
Ford Castle, Northum. iii. 713.
Fordham, Camb. i. 255.
Fordingbridge, Hunts, ii. 510.
Fordington, Dorset, ii. 226.
Fordley, Suffolk,, iv. 279.
Fordwich, Kent, iii. 185.
Forehoe, Norf. iii. 613.
Foremark, Derb. ii. 57.
Forest Hill, Oion. iv. 70.
Forest House, Essex, ii. 379-
Forncet, Norf. iii. 603.
Fornham, Suffolk, iv. 316.
Forrabury, Corn. i. 434.
Fortescue, family of,*ii. 155.
Forton, Hants, ii. 510.
Fortrey, James, i. 26l.
Forty Hall, Middx. iii. 486.
Fosd'yke, Line. iii. 612.
Foston, Derb. ii. 57.
Fotheringhay, North, iii. 686.
Foulness, Wallasea, &c. Essex, ii. 379,
Foulsharn, Norf. iii. 600.
774
INDEX.
Fowey, Corn. i. 434.
Fox, Edward, ii. 451.
Fox, George, i. 567.
Fox, John, iii. 604.
Foxholes, Lane. iii. 330.
Foxley, Wilts, iv. 465.
Framhngham, Suffolk, iv. 306.
Frampton, Dorset, ii. 227.
Frankley, Wore. iv. 511.
Frant, Sussex, iv. 385.
Freebridge Lynn, Norf. iii. CIS.
Freebridge Marshland, Norf. ii. 615.
Freemantle, Hants, ii.510.
Frensham, Surra/, iv. 341.
Freshwater, Isle of W. iv. 7S5.
Freston, Suffolk, iv. 314.
Frocester, Glouc. ii. 453.
Frodsham, Chesh. i. 329.
Frogmore, Berks, i. 123.
Frome, Somers. iv. 216.
Froxfield, Wilts, iv. 465.
Frindsbury, Kent, iii. 185.
Fugglestone, Wilts, iv. 465.
Fulbourn, Camb. i. 255.
Fulbroke, Warw. iv. 397.
Fulford, Devon, ii. 141.
Fulham, Middx. iii. 487.
Fuller, Thomas, iii. 667.
Fullwell Hills, Durh. ii. 303.
Fiilmere, Bucks, i. 152.
Fulneck, Yorks. iv. 578.
Furness, Lane. iii. 293.
Furness Abbey, Lane. iii. 294.
Fyfield Berks, i. 74.
Fyfield, Essex, ii. 379.
Gad's Hill, Kent, iii. 185.
Gaddesden, Herts, iii. 34.
Gainsborough, Line. iii. 613.
Gainsford, Durh. ii. 303.
Gains Hall, Hants, iii. 89.
Gallow, Norf. iii. 618.
Gamlingay, Camb. i. 256.
Canton, Yorks. iv. 551.
Gardner, Lord, iv. 262.
Gargrave, Yorks. iv. 579.
Garnons, Hereford, ii. 572.
Garrick, David, ii. 588.
Garrington, Ooron. iv. 70.
Garstang, Lane. iii. 296.
Garston, Lane. iii. 297.
Gafcton, East, Berks, i. 74.
Garth, Sir Samuel, ii. 303.
Garthbeibio, Montgomerysh. iv. 660.
Gateshead, Durh. ii. 303.
Gatton, Surrey, iv. 346.
Gawdy Hall, Norf.w. 605.
Gawsworlh, Cliesh. i. 330.
Gawthorp, Lane. iii. 297.
Gay, John, ii. 107.
Geddington, North, iii. 659.
Gedney, Line. iii. 613.
Cell, John, ii. 65.
Geltsdale Fori-st, Cumb. i. 587.
Gennis, Corn. i. 436.
George, St., Lord, f. 256.
Gerbier, Balthazar, i. 75.
Germans, Corn. \. 436.
Gerrance, Cam. \. 440.
Gerthinge, Richard, ii. 588.
Gibside, Dvfh. ii. 304.
Gibson, Thomas, iv. 440.
Gidding, Hants, iii. 72.
Giddy Hall, Eastr, ii. 379-
Gidley, Devon, ii. 142.
Giggleswith, Yorks. iv. 579.
Gill, Dr. J., iii. 669.
Gill, Richard, ii. 262.
Gillibrand Hall, Lane. iii. 297.
Gillingham Dorset, ii. 227.
Gillingham, Kent, iii. 186.
Gillingham, Norf. iii. 602.
Gilpin, Bernard, ii. 309.
Gilsfield, Montgomerysh. iv. 660.
Gilsland Spa, Cumb. i. 588.
Gilston, Herts, iii. 34.
Gipping Hall, Suffolk, iv. 315.
Giraldus, iv. 730.
Gisburn, Yorks. iv. 579.
Gisleham, Suffolk, iv. 310.
Glaiston, Rutl. iv. 146.
Glamorganshire, general description of, iv.
702.
Glanford Bridge, Line. iii. 614.
Glanville, Dr. Joseph, ii. 166.
Glasbury, Brccknocksh. iv. 672.
Glastonbury, Somers. iv. 216.
Glatton, Hants, iii. 73.
Gleaston Castle, Lane. iii. 297.
Glendale, Northum. iii. 712.
Glenham Parva, Suffolk, iv. 311.
Gluvias, Corn. i. 440.
Glisson, Dr., ii. 245.
Glossop, Derb. ii. 58.
Glover, Richard, iii. 1 14.
Gloucester, Glouc. ii. 453 ; iv. 762.
Gloucestershire, general description of, ii.
422.
Glympton, Oxon. iv. 127.
Glynde, Sussex, iv. 386.
Glynn, Dr.,i. 226.
Gnoshall, Staff, iv. 238.
Goathurst, Somers. iv. 219.
Gobions, Herts, iii. 44.
Godalming, Surrey, iv. 341.
Godbehere's Founder, Derb. ii. 58.
Godington, Kent, iii. 186.
Godley and Chertsey, Surrey, iv. 342.
Godinanchester, Hunts, iii. 73.
Godmanham, Yorks, iv. 551.
Godmersham, Kent, iii. 187.
GocUhill, Hants, ii. 510.
Godstoiie, Surrey, iv. 349.
Godwin, Francis, iii. 679.
Gogmagog Hills, Camb. i.256.
Gokewell, Line. iii. 614.
Gonalston, Notts, iv. 19.
I Goodneslon, Kent, iii. 187.
I Goodrich Castle, Hereford, ii. 573.
Goodwin, Thomas, Bishop of Bath and
Wells, i. 124.
Goodwin Sands, Kent, iii. 188.
Goran, Corn. i. 440.
Goring, Oion. iv. 79-
Gorleston, Suffolk, iv. 308.
Goronw, Owen, iv. 628.
Gosfield Hall, Essex, ii. 379.
Gosforth, Northum. iii. 705.
Goshambury, Herts iii. 34.
Gosport, Hants, ii. 510; iv. 762.
Gotham, Notts, iv. 19.
Gothurst, Bucks, i. 152.
Goudluirst, Kent, iii. 187.
Cough. Richard, i. 265.
Gouharrow Park, Cumb. i. 588.
Grace Dieu Abbey, Monm. iii. 576.
Grade, Cora. i. 440.
Graftou Regis, North, iii. 657.
Graham, George, i. 592.
Graine, Kent, iii. 188.
Grampound, Corn. i. 441.
Grange, Dorset, ii. 227.
Grange Hall, Durh. ii. 305.
Grange Park, Hants, ii. 51 1.
Granger, Rev. James, ii. 249.
Grantham, Line. iii. 614.
Granville, family of, ii. II 1.
Grasmere, Westm. iv. 436.
Graveney, Kent, iii. 188.
Gravenhurst, Upper, Beds. i. 28.
Graves, Mr., iv. 213.
Gravesend, Kent, iii. 188.
Graystock, Cumb. i. 588.
Greatham, Durh. ii. 305.
Greathead, Henry, ii. 323.
Greenford, Midd'x. iii. 489.
Greenhalgh, Lane. iii. 297.
Greenhithe, Kent,\\\. 189.
Greenhoe, North, Norf. iii. 619.
Greenhoe, South, Norf. iii. 621.
Greenwich, Kent, iii. 1 89.
Green's Norton, North, iii. 663.
Greensted, Essex, ii. 380.
Greetham, Rutl. iv. 137.
Grendon Underwood, Bucks, i. 154.
Grenville, i. 173, 176, 180.
Gresford, Denbiglislt. iv. 641.
Gresley, Derb. ii. 59.
Grey, Dr. Richard, ii. 301.
Greysley, Notts, iv. 120.
Grimeshoe, Norf. iii. 622.
Grimsby, Line. iii. 615.
Grimsthorpe, Line. iii. 617.
Grimston, SirH., iii. 35.
Grimston Garth, Yorks. iv, 551.
Grindal, Abp., i. 561.
Gringley, Notts, iv. 20.
Grinstead, Susser, iv. 384.
Grinton, Yorks. iv. 588.
Grbby, Line. iii. 6l4.
Grittleton, Wilts, iv. 466.
Gritlon, North, iii. 659.
Groombridge, Kent, iii. 200.
Grosmont, Monm. iii. 574.
Grosvenor, family of, i. 326.
Grove, Hertford, iii. 36.
Grove, Notts, iv. 20.
Grove Court, Glouc. ii. 461.
Grove House, Middx. iii. 482.
Grove Place, Hants, ii. 51 1.
Grovesend, Glouc. ii. 461.
Grundisburgh, Suffolk, iv. 290.
•Gnestling, Sussex, iv. 379.
Guilford, Surrey, iv. 351.
Guillim, John, ii. 588.
Guilsborough, North, iii. 663.
Guillcross, Norf. iii. 623.
Guisboroiigli, Yorks. iv. 564.
Guiting Park, Gluuc. ii. 461.
Gulvai, Corn. i. 441.
GinUon, Sujjolk, iv. 308.
Gtinton Hall, Norf. iii. 607.
Gu\'s Cliff, Warm. iv. 413.
Gwennap, Corn. i. 441.
Gwilym, Daf\ dd ab, iv. 690.
Gwindu, Anglesey, iv. 626.
Gwithion, Corn. i. 4<*1.
Gwynn Eleanor, ii. 388.
G*ytherin, Denbighsh. iv. 641,
Harcombe, Devon, ii. !42.
Hacket, William, iii. 6b2.
INDEX.
775
Hackington, Kent, iii. 200.
Hackness, Yorks. iv. 565.
Hackney, Middx. iii. 349.
Hack wood Park, Hants, ii. 511.
Haddenham, Ducks, i. 154.
Haddon, Derb. ii. 60.
Haddon, Dr. Walter, i. 160.
Haddon, West, North, iii. 664.
Hadescoe, Norf. iii. 602.
Hadliam, Herts, iii. 37.
Hadingston, North, iii. 687.
Hadleigh, Essex, ii. 381.
Hadleigh, Suffolk, iv. 292.
Hadley, Middx. iii. 490.
Hadstock, Essex, ii. 381.
Hafod, Cardigansh. iv.638.
Hagbourn, Berks, i. 74.
Haggerston, Northum. iii. 715.
Hagley, Wnrc. iv. 511.
Hagnaby, Line. iii. 618.
Haigh Hall, Lane. ui. 297.
Haileybury College, Herts, iii. 37.
Hailsliam, Sussex, iv. 386.
Hailweston, Hants, iii. 73.
Haldon, Devon, ii. 142.
Hale Hall, CMWI&. i. 590.
Hale Hall, Zone. iii. 297.
Hale, Matthew, ii. 433.
Hales, Glouc. ii. 461.
Hales Owen, Salop, iv. 160.
Halesworth, Suffolk, iv. 279.
Halfshire, Wore. iv. 508.
Halifax, Yorks. iv. 579.
Hall, Henry, ii. 125.
Hall, Joseph, iii. 350.
Hall Place, Kent, iii. 222.
Hailing, Kent, iii. 200.
Hallingbury, Essex, ii. 381.
Halloughto'n, Notts, ir. 21.
Hallow, Wore. iv. 515.
Hals, William, i. 430.
Halsted, Essex, ii. 381.
Halstow, Kent, iii. 200.
Halton, Chesh. i.330.
Halt-whistle, Northum. iii. 732.
Halystone, Northum. iii. 710.
Ham, East and West, Essex, ii. 382.
Hamble, Hants, ii. 512.
Hambleden, Bucks, i. 154.
Hambledon, fiutl. iv. 14!.
Hambledon Hill, Dorset, ii. 227.
Hampden, Bucks, i. 155.
Hampden, family of, i. 156.
Hampshire, general description of, ii. 489.
Hampstead, Middr. iii. 491.
Hampstead, East, Berks, i. 74.
Hampstead Heath, Middx. iii. 492.
Hampton, Middx. iii. 493.
Hampton, Wore. iv. 504
Hampton Court, Middx. ii. 493.
Hampton, Little, Sussex, iv. 370.
Hampton, Minchin, Glouc. ii. 461.
Hamstal Ridware, Staff, iv. 246.
Hanbtiry, Staff", iv. 246.
Hanbury Hall, Wore, iv.512.
Handley, Staff, iv. 251.
Handsworth/Sto^'. iv. 247.
Hankford, Sir William, ii. 156.
Hanley Castle, Wore. iv. 520.
Hanmere, Flintsh. iv. 649.
Hanninglon, Wilts, iv. 466.
Hanslape, Bucks, i. 156.
Hanway, Jonas, 524.
Hanweil, Middx. iii. 496.
Hanwell, Oion. iv. 69.
Hanworth, Middx. iii. 497.
Hanworth, Norf. iii. 607.
Happing, Norf. iii. 624.
Harbledown, Kent, iii. 201.
Harborough, Leic. iii. 361.
Hardby, Notts, iv. 21.
Harden Hall, Chesh. i. 330.
Hardham, Sussex, iv. 370.
Hard-Knot Castle, Cumb. i. 590.
Hardwick, Glouc. ii. 462.
Hardwicke, Zfer/t ii. 306.
Harclwicke, Hereford, ii. 576.
Hardwicke Hall, Derb. ii. 61.
Hare Street, Essex, ii. 382.
Haiefield, Middx. iii. 497.
Harescomb, Glouc. ii. 462.
Hares6eld, G/ouc. ii. 462.
Harewood, Hereford, ii. 576.
Harewood, Yorks.iv.5Sl.
Harlaxton, Line. iii. 618.
Harlecli, Merionethsh. iv. 655.
Harleston, Norf. iii. 605.
Harleston, North, iii. 673.
Harlestone House, North, iii. 674.
Harling, East, Norf. iii. 623.
Har!ington, Middjc. iii. 498.
Harlow, Essex, ii. 383.
Harmoiulsaorlh, Middx. iii. 498.
Harnish, Wi'/fs. iv. 466.
Harold, Beds. i. 28.
Harold Ewias, Hereford, ii. 576.
Harpenden, Herts, iii. 38.
Harpham, Yorks. iv. 552.
Harpsden Court, Ojon. iv. 67.
Harrietshain, A>«/, iii. 201.
Harrington, Cumb. i. 590.
Harrington, James, iii. 674.
Harris, James, i. 83.
Harris, Holiert, ii. 439.
Harrow, Middx. iii. 498.
Harrowden, Great, North, iii. 679.
Harrowgate, Yorks. iv. 581.
Harsnet, Dr. Samuel, ii. 373.
Ilarsted Hall, Essex, ii. 383.
Hartburn, Northum. iii. 715.
Hartford, Hants, iii. 74.
Hartham, Wilts, iv. 466.
Hartington, Derb. ii. 63.
Hartismere, Suffolk, iv. 293.
Hartloiid, Devon, ii. 144.
Hartlrbury Castle, Wore. iv. 512.
Hartlepool, Dur/t. ii. 306.
Hartley, Northum. iii. 707.
Hartley, David, iv. 580.
Harts Hill, Warui. iv. 406.
Hartwell, Bucks, i. 156; iv. 762.
Harty, Kent, iii. 201.
Harvey, Capt. John, iii. 181.
Harvey, Dr. \V., iii. 185.
Harwell, Berks, i. 75.
Harwich, Essex, ii. 383.
Haselberge, Derb. ii. 64.
Haselden, Glouc. ii. 462.
Haselv, Ojtoii. iv. 77.
Hasleniere, Surrey, iv. 342.
Haslingden, Lane. iii. 298.
Haslinglield, Cumb. i. 256.
Has'ing, Sussei, iv. 377.
Hastings, Sussex, iv. 378,379.
Hastings, Mr , iv. 503.
Hatfield, Herts, iii. 38.
Hatfield, Yorks. i*. 581.
Hatfield, Bishop, ii. 288.
Halfield, Broad-Oak, Essex, ii. 385.
Hatfield Peverell, Essex, ii. 385.
Halherleigh, Devon, ii. 144.
Hathersage, Derb. ii. 64.
Hatley St. George, Camb. i. 256.
Bitten, fTarw. iv. 397.
Hattoi:, Sir Christopher, i. 172; iii. 674,
Havant, Hants, ii. 512.
Havard, William, ii. 500.
Haverford West, Pembroksh. iv. 723.
Haverhill, Suffolk, iv. 313.
Haverholme Priory, Line. iii. 618.
Havering-Atte Bower, Essex, ii. 385.
Haversham, Bucks, i. 156.
Haversham, Westm. iv. 436.
Haugham, Line. iii. 618.
Haughley, Suffolk, iv. 315.
Haughton, Notts, iv. 21.
Hawarden, Flintsh. iv. 650.
Hawes, York. iv. 565.
Hawes, William, iii. 508.
Hawford, Wore. iv. 512.
Hawkhurst, Kent, iii. 201.
Hawkins, Sir John, ii. 163. „
, Sir Richard, ii. 166.
Hawkshead, Lane. iii. 298.
Hawk^tone, Salop, iv. 161,
Hawnes, Beds. i. 28.
Hawnes House, Beds. \. 28.
Hawstead, Suffolk, iv. 317.
Hawthorn, Durh. ii. 307.
Hay, Brecknocksh. iv. 673.
Haydon, Northum. iii. 733.
Hayes, Devon, ii. 145.
Hayes, Kent, iii. 201.
Hayes, Middx. iii. 500.
Hay field, Derb. ii. 64.
Hayling, Hants, ii. 512.
Headington, Oxon. iv. 69.
Headley, Yorks. iv. 582.
Headon, Notts, iv. 21,
Hearne, Thomas, i. 99.
Heath, Yorks. iv. 582.
Heather, Leic. iii. 361.
Heathfield, Sussex, iv. 380.
Heaton Hall, Northum. iii. 724.
Heaton House, Lane. iii. 298.
Ileavitree, Devon, ii. 145.
Heddinglon, Wilts, iv. 466.
Heddon-on-the-Wall, Northum. iii. 709.
Hedingham Castle, Essex, ii. 386.
Hedingham, Sible, Essex, ii. 387.
Hcdon, Yorks. iv. 552.
Hedsor, Bucks, i. 157.
Helagh, ForA's. iv. 582.
Helen's, St., Lane. iii. 298.
Holland, Corn. i. 442.
Hell Kettles, Durh. ii. 308.
Helmdon, North, iii. 669.
Helmingham, Suffolk, iv. 278.
Helmsley, Yorks. iv. 565.
Helpston, North, iii. 672.
Hebtone, Cw». i. 442.
Hemingbrough, Yorks. iv. 55ii.
Hemingford, Hants, iii. 74.
Hemlingford, WO.TW. iv. 405.
Hempstead, Essex, ii. 388.
Hempstead, Glouc. ii. 462.
Ilempslead, Herts, iii. 39.
Hemycck, Devon, ii. 145.
Henchman, Humphrey, iii. 667.
Hendon, Middx. iii. 500.
Hendred, Berks, i. 75.
Hengistbury, Hants, ii. 512.
776
INDEX.
Hengrave, Suffolk, iv. 316.
Henham, Suffolk, iv. 279.
Henley, Oxon. iv. 67.
Henley, Warw. iv. 396.
Henley on Thames, Oxon. iv. 66.
Henllan, Denbighsh. iv. 641.
Henrietta Maria, Queen, i. 181.
Henry, Matthew, i. 317.
Henstead, Norf. iii. 624.
Heppinlon, Kent, iii. 202.
Herclwick, Warm. iv. 420.
Hereford, Hereford, ii. 576.
Herefordshire, general description of, ii.
561.
Herne, Kent, iii. 202.
Herring-fleet, Suffolk, iv. 308.
Hertford, Herts, iii. 40.
Hertfordshire, general description of, iii. 1.
Hertingfordbury, Herts, iii. 41.
Hesket, Cumb. i. 591.
Hesket, New Market, Cumb. i. 591.
Hessle, Yorks. iv. 552.
Heston, Middx. iii. 501.
Heton Castle, Northum. iii. 725.
Hever, Kent, iii. 202.
Hewling, William, ii. 232.
Hexgrave, Notts, iv. 22.
Hexham, Northum. iii. 729.
Hexton, Herts, iii. 41.
Heybridge, Essex, ii. 388.
Heylin, Dr. Peter, iv. 63.
Heynings, Line. iii. 613.
Heysham, Lane. iii. 298.
Heytesbury, Wilts, iv. 466.
Hey thorp, Oxon. iv. 127.
Higham, Kent, iii. 203,221.
Highani, Leic. iii. 362.
Higham Ferrers, North, iii. 665.
Higham Gobion, Beds. i. 28,
Higham Park, North, iii. 667.
Highclere, Hants, ii. 512.
High Cliff, Hamps. ii. 513.
High Force, i>ttr/J. ii. 308.
Highgate, Middx. iii. 501.
Highhead Castle, (7w»i6. i. 591.
Highnam, Glouc. ii. 462.
Highworth, Wilts, iv. 467.
Hill Hall, Essex, ii. 383.
Hill, Robert, iii. 53.
Hillary, Corn. i. 444.
Hillesdon, Bucks, i. 157
Hillingdon, Middx. iii. 501.
Hillington Park, Norf. iii. 618.
Hilton, Staff, iv. 238.
Hilton Castle, Durh. ii. 308.
Hinchinbrook, Hants, iii. 75.
Hinckley, iez'c. iii. 362.
Hindon, Wilts, iv. 467.
Hingham, Norf. iii. 614.
Hinksey, Berks, i. 75.
Hintlesham, Suffolk, iv. 314.
Hi.nton, Camii. i. 257.
Hinton, Glouc. ii. 462.
Hinton, Somers. iv. 219.
Hints, Staff. 246.
Hinwick Hall, Beds. \. 28.
Hinxliill, Af»<, iii. 203.
Hitchenden, Bucks, i. 157.
Hitchin, Herts, iii. 41.
Hoadley, Dr. Ben., iii. 263.
Hoblyn, Robert, i. 424.
Hobson, Admiral, iv. 751.
Hockliffe, Beds. i. 29.
Hod Hill, Dorset, ii. 227.
Hocldesdon, Herts, iii. 42.
Hodnet, Salop, iv. 161.
Hodsack, Notts, iv. 40.
Hordwell, Hamps. ii. 513.
Hogshaw, Bucks, i. 157.
Hoi beach, Line. iii. 618.
Holbrook, Suffolk,!*. 314.
Holcombe, Devon, ii. 146.
Holdenby House, North, iii. 674.
Holdeniess, KorA'*. iv. 764.
Holdsworthy, Devon, ii. 146.
Hole, Rev. Mr., ii. 148.
Hole-in-the-Wall, Hereford, ii. 590.
Holker Hall, Lane. iii. 299.
Holkham, Norf. iii. 620.
Holland, Lane. iii. 299.
Holland House, Middx. iii. 510.
Holland, Philemon, ii. 365.
Hollingbourn, Kent, iii. 203.
Hollingshed, Raphael, i. 203.
Holm Lacy, Hertford, ii. 590.
Holmes, Essex, ii. 388.
Holme, Lane. iii. 299.
Holme, Notts, iv. 21.
Holme, Yorks. iv. 552.
Holmes Chapel, Chesh. i. 334.
Holt, Denbighsh. iv. 641.
Holt, Leic. ni. 363.
Holt, Norf. iii. 625.
Holt, Witts, iv. 467.
Holt, Sir J., iv. 114.
Homerton, Middx. iii. 48g.
Holyliead, Anglesey, iv. 626.
Holy Island, Northum. iii. 714.
Holywell, Hants, iii. 76.
Holywell, Northum. iii. 707.
Holywell, Flintsh. iv. 650.
Honinghold, Leic. iii. 363.
Honington, Suffolk, iv. 277.
Honiton, Devon, ii. 146.
Hoo, Herts, iii. 42.
Hoo, A>n(, iii. 203.
Hooke, Dr. Robert, ir. 755.
Hooker, John, ii. 129.
Hooker, Richard, ii. 145.
Hooknorton, Oxott. iv. 74.
Hooton Hall, Chesh. i. 331.
Hope, Derb. ii. 64.
Hope, Flintsh. iv. 651.
Hope, Hereford, ii. 591.
Hopeton, Salop, iv. 161.
Hopton, Derb. ii. 65.
Ilardwell, Hump. ii. 513.
Horkesley, Essex, ii. 388.
Horkstow, Line. iii. 619.
Hornby, Lane. iii. 299.
Horncastle, Line. iii. 619.
Hornchurch, Essex, ii. 388.
Home, Rutl. iv. 138.
Horningsham, Wilts, iv. 470.
Horningsheath, Suffolk, iv. 316.
Hornsea, Yorks. i*. 552.
Hornsey, Cumb. i. 257.
Hornsey, Middx. iii. 501.
Horseheatli, Camb. i. 257.
Horsford, Norf. iii. 641.
Horsham, A'or-£ iii. 641.
Horsham, Sussex, iv. 371.
Horsley, Glouc. ii. 462.
Horsley, East, Surrey, iv. 352.
Horsley, West, Surrey, iv. 352.
Horsted, .Kewf, iii. 203.
Horton, Bucks, i. 158;
Horton, Dorset, ii. 228.
Horton, Kent, iii. 203.
Horton, JvVf/i. iii. 688.
Horton Castle, Northum. iii. 712.
Holhfield, Kent, iii. 204.
Hoveringham, Notts, iv. 22.
Houghall, Durh. ii. 309.
Houghton, Norf. iii. 61, 621.
Houghton Castle, Northum. iii. 7^7.
Houghton Conquest, Beds. i. 29.
Houghton le Spring, Durh. ii. 309.
Hoilnslow, Middx. iii. 503.
Housesteads, Northum. iii. 733.
Howden, Vor£*. iv. 552.
Howich, Northum. iii. 701.
Howletts, Kent, iii. 117.
Hoxne, Suffolk, iv. 294.
Hoxton and Haggerston, Middx.w. 503.
Hubblestone, Devon, ii. 147.
Huddersfield, Font*, iv. 581.
Huddleston, family of, i. 591.
Hudson, ii. 173.
Hudson, Jei'iery, iv. 144.
Huel Friendship, Devon, ii. 147.
Hughes, John, iv. 474.
Hulcote, William, i. 69.
Hull, Yorks. iv. 553.
Hulme Hall, Lane. iii. 299.
Humberston, Line. iii. 619.
Humbleyard, Norf. iii. 626.
Humphry, Ozias, ii. 146.
Hundon, Suffolk, iv. 313.
Hungerford, Berks, i. 75.
Hunmanby, Yorks. iv. 559,
Hunnington, Line. iii. 619.
Hunsdon, Herts, iii. 42.
Hunslanton, Norf. iii. 640.
Huntbourne Park, Hants, ii. 514.
Huntingdon, Hants, iii. 77.
Huntingdonshire, general description pf,
iii. 64.
Huntington, Hereford, ii. 591.
Hunton, Kent, iii. 204.
Hurley, Berks, i. 76.
Hursley, Hants, ii. 514.
BUK\,' Berks, i. 77.
Hurst, Zz'rtc. iii. 619.
Hurst Caitle, Hants, ii. 514.
Hurstmonceux, Sussex, iv. 380.
Hurst-per-point, Sussex, iv. 383.
Hurwortli, Durh. ii. 31 1.
Hu&born Craw ley i Beds. i. 30.
Hussey, Giles, ii. 233.
Hutchins, Hev. John, ii. 256.
Hulton Hall, Cumb. \. 591.
Hutton, John, i. 591.
Hutlon, William, iv. 407.
Hutton Bushel, Yorks. iv. 565.
Huxley, North, iii. 667.
Hyde, Chesh. i. 331.
Hylhe, Kent, iii. 204.
Hytlie, Hants, ii. 514.
Iccomb, Wiirc. \v. 504,
Ickborough, Norf. iii. 622.
Ickenham, Middx. iii. 504.
Ickleford, Herls. iii. 42..
Ickleton, Camb. i. 257.
Icklingbam, Suffolk, iv. 305.
Ickworth Park, Suffolk, iv. 318.
Idmiston, Wilts, iv. 467.
Jermyn, Henry, Earl of St. Albans, ii. 66.
Ifley, Oxon. iv. 70.
Ightham, Kent, iii. 205.
Ham, Staff, iv. 261.
INDEX.
777
Ilchester, Somers. iv. 219.
Ilderton, Northum. iii. 712.
Ilford, Essex, ii. 388.
llfracombe, Devon, ii. 147.
Ilkley, Yorks. iv. 582.
Illogan, Corn. i. 444.
Ilminsler, Somers. iv. 219.
Ilsley, Berks, i. 78.
Impington, Cumb. i. 257.
Inte, Chesh. i. 331.
Ince Blumlel, Lane. iii. 299.
Ingatestone, Essex, ii. 389.
Ingelo, Dr. Nathaniel, i. 151.
IngestreHall, Stuff, iv. 252.
Ingbam, Norf. in. 624.
Ingleton, Ko;-fo. iv. 582.
Ingoldsby, Z.z'rac. iii. 619.
Ingress, Kent, iii. 250.
Ing'.horpe, Rutl. iv. 139.
Inkberrow, Wore. iv. 520.
Inkpen, #<?r&*. i. 78.
Inlwoocl, Norf. iii. 626.
Inwarclleigli, Devon, ii. 148.
Inworth, Essex, ii. 389.
Ipsden, Gxon. iv. 78.
Ipswich, Swtfb/*, iv. 294.
Ireby, Cumb. i. 591.
Irelelh, Lane. iii. 300.
Ireton, Henry, iv. 12.
Irthliugburgli, North, iii. 667.
Irtoii, Cumb. i. 592.
Iscanus, Josephus, ii. 139.
Isehampstead Cheneys, Buckt. i. 158.
Isle-ham, Cumb. \. 258.
Islewortli, Middx. iii. 508.
Islington, JUiddx. iii. 504.
Islip, Oxan. iv. 113.
Issey, Corn. i. 445.
Istandshire, Northum. iii. 715.
Itchington, Long, Wariu. iv. 426.
Ive, Corn. i. 446.
Ives, Corn. i. 446.
Ives, St., Hants, iii. 79.
Iver, Bucks, i. 158.
Ivinghoe, Bucks, i. 158.
Ivineton Camp, Hereford, ii. 591.
Ivy Bridge, Devon, ii. 148.
Ixworth,. £u#b&, iv. 277.
Jacobstow, Corn. \. 444.
Jackson, James, ii. 365.
Jackson, William, Mr., ii. 133.
Jarrow, Durh. ii. 311.
Jefferies, Judge, iv. 645.
Jenyns, Soanie, i. 208.
Jerningham, Sir W., iii. 614.
Jesmond, Northum. iii. 723.
Jesus College, Camb. i. 227.
Johnes, Marianne, iv. 687.
Johnson, Maurice, iii. 444.
Jones, Inigo, i. 70.
Jorwrrth, William, iv. 630.
Just, Corn. i. 448.
Kaye, John, iii. 637.
Kea, Corn. i. 449.
Kean, Corn. i. 449.
Keate, George, iv. 487.
Kedington, Suffolk, iv. 313.
Kedleston, Derb. ii. 65.
Kegworth, Leic. iii. 363.
Keighley, Yorks. iv. 582.
Kekyl, Joseph, iii. 673.
Kelham, Notts, iv. 33.
VOL. IV.
Kelmarsh, North, iii. 683.
Kelweston, Somers. iv. 220.
Kemp, John, iii. 267.
Kempenfeldl, Admiral, iv. 763,
Kempsford, Gtouc. ii. 462.
Kempshot, Hants, ii. 514.
Remsey, Wore. iv. 515.
Kenarton, Kent, iii. 206.
Kenchcster, Hereford, ii. 591 .
Kendal Ward, Westm. iv. 436.
Renfig, G/amorgansh. iv. 709.
Kenilworth, Wurw. iv. 416.
Rennet, West, Wilts, iv. 490.
Rennet, Dr., iii. 179.
Rennet, Rev. Basil, iii. 222.
Kennicott, Dr., ii. 190.
Kenningham, Norf. iii. 623.
Rensington, Middx. iii. 509.
Rensworth, Herts, iii. 42.
Rent, general description of, iii. 94.
Rentbury, Berks, i. 78.
Rentchurch, Hereford, ii. 591.
Kentish Town, Middx. iii. 542.
Renlon, Devon, ii. 148.
Renwyn, Corn. i. 450.
Kepier Hospital, Durh.u. 313.
Kt-pple, Northum. iii. 710.
Ressingland, Suffolk, iv. 310.
Keston, Kent, i'li. 20(3.
Reswick, Cumb. i. 592.
Retlering, North, iii. 668.
Kettlewcll, Yorks. iv. 582.
Rettcn, Rutl. iv. 140.
Keverne, Corn. i. 450.
Rew, Corn. i. 450.
Reynsham, Sowers, iv. 220.
Ribworlh, Leic. iii. 363.
Ridderminster, Wore. iv. 512.
Kiddinuton, Oxon. iv. 126.
Ridwelly, Carmarthensh. iv.697.
Rilburn, Middx. iii. 493.
Rildwick, Yorks. iv. 583.
Rilliam, Yorks. iv. 539.
Rilken, Flintsh. iv. 651.
Rilkhampton, Corn. i. 451.
Rillegrew, John, i. 414.
Kilmington, Devon, ii, 149.
Rilpeck, Hereford, ii. 591.
Kimberl) Hall. N:>rf iii. 6)4.
Rimbollon, Hants ni. 84.
Kimeridge, Dorset, ii. 2<.'9. "
Kinderlun. Clicsh. i 331.
Kineton, Wurw iv. 41 1, 412.
Ring, Sir J., iii. 24.
Ring, Sir Peter, ii. 139.
Ringsbridge, Devon, ii. 149.
Ringsbury, Middx. iii. 511.
Ringsclere, Hants, ii. 514.
Kingsgale, Kent, iii. 258.
Kingsland, Hereford, ii. 591.
Ring's Mead, Derb. ii. 67.
Ringstdorpe, North, iii. 684.
Kingston, Kent, iii. 206.
Ringston, Notts, iv. 22.
Ringston, Surrey, iv. 343.
Ringston Bagpuze, Berks, i. 73.
Ringston Hall, Dorset, ii. 229.
Kingston House, Dorset, ii. 22g.
Kingston on Thames, Surrey, iv. 343.
Kingswood, Somert. iv. 219.
Ringswood, Wilts, iv. 467.
Rington, Hereford, ii. 591.
Kington, St. Michael, fTilti. if. 467.
Kinlet, Salop, iv. 161.
Kinley, Glouc. ii. 463.
Kinver, Staff, iv. 255.
Kirby, Leic. iii. 363.
Rirby Hail, North, iii. 659.
Rirkby, Notts, iv. 22.
Rirkby, Westm. iv. 433.
Kirkby Lonsdale, Westm. iv. 439.
Kirkby in Rendal, Westm. iv. 437.
Kirkbv Moorsidc, Yorks. iv. 565.
Rirk Oswald, Cumb. i. 593.
Rirkby Shore, Westm. iv. 434.
Rirkdale, Lane. iii. 300.
Rirkdale, Yorks. iv. 566.
Rirk-Ella, Yorks. iv. 559.
Rirkham, Lane. iii. 300.
Rirkham, Yorks. iv. 566.
Rirkham Priory, Yorks. iv. 559.
Rirkliaugh, Northum. iii. 731.
Rirkleatham, Yorks. iv. 566.
Rirkley, Northum. iii. 708.
Rirkley, Suffolk, iv. 308.
Rirklington, Notts, iv. 22.
Rirk-Linton, Cumb. i. 592.
Rirkstall, Yorks. iv. 583.
Rirkstead, Line. iii. 619.
Rirkstead Hugh, Line. iii. 619.
Rirtling, Camb. i. 258.
Rirtlington. Oxon. iv. 113,
Kirton, Line. iii. 620.
Knaith, Line. iii. 620.
Rnaptoft, Leic. iii. 363.
Rnaresbrough, Yorks. iv. 583.
Rnaresdale, Northum. iii. 731.
Knebworth, Herts, iii. 42.
Rnighllow, H 'arm. iv. 415.
Rnightlow Cross, Wurw. iv. 419.
Knightsbridge, Middx. iii. 511.
Knigliton, Itadiwrsh, iv. 733.
Knocklin Castle, Salop, iv. 161.
Knole Park, Kent, iii. 240.
Rnowle, Kent, iii. 206
Rnowle, Wurw. iv. 410.
Rnowle Hill, Derb. ii. 67.
Rnowlton, Kent, iii. 206.
Rnowsley, Lane. iii. 300.
Rnoyle, East, Wilts, iv. 463.
Rnutsford, Cliesh. i. 33».
Ryme, Line. iii. 620.
Ryrle, John, ii. 600.
Lackford, S-iffblk, iv. 30i.
Lackham, Wilts, iv. 467.
Ljcock, Wilts, iv. 467.
Lady-lift, Hereford, ii. 591.
Lalan', Corn. i. 452.
Laleham, Middx. iii. 512.
Lambt-rliurst, Kent, iii. 206.
Lamberhurst, Sussex, iv. 386.
Lambert Casile, Dorset, ii. 229.
Lambert, Daniel, ii. 571.
Lambeth, Surrey, iv. 334.
Lambley, Northum. iii. 733.
Lambourne, Berks, i. 78,
Lambton Hall, Z>ur«. ii. 314.
Lamer, Herts, iii. 58.
Lamerlon, Devon, ii. 149.
Lampeter, Cardiqansh. iv. 687.
Lamport Hall, North, iii. 679.
Lancashire, general description of, iii, 274.
Lancaster, Lane. iii. 301.
Lanchester, Durh. ii. 3l4.
Lancing, Sussex, iv. 372.
Landcross, Devon, ii. 149.
Laiiden, John, iii. 672.
INDEX.
Landewednack, Corn. i. 452.
Land's End, Corn. i. 453.
Landguard Fort, Essex, \\. 384.
Landrake, Corn. i. 453.
Lamlulpli, Corn. i. 453.
Landwadc, Camb. i. 238.
Laiiercosf Priory, Cumb. i. 594.
Langar, Notts, iv. 2T5.
Langdon, Ac?i<, iii. 206.
Langdon Hill?, Essex, ii. 389.
Langford, Essex, ii. 389.
Langham, Rut I. iv. 145.
Langham, Suffolk, iv. 277.
Langlcy, Bucks, i. 159.
Langley, Z.«'c. iii. 363.
Langley, O*on. iv. 75.
Langley Abbey, Norf. iii. C28.
Langley Abbots, Herts, iii. 42.
Langlcy Castle, Northum. iii. 7S3.
Langley King's, Herts, iii. 43.
Langley's, Essex, ii. 389.
Langport, Somers. iv. i'2i.
Langton, Z,ezc. iii. 363.
Langton, Line. iii. 620.
Langton, Walter de, iii. 364.
Langii-fe, Oron. iv. 78.
Lanhilelh, Monm. iii. 569.
Lanhydrock, Corn. i. 454.
Lanlivery, Corn. i. 455.
Lanivel, Corn. i. 455.
Lanrtth, Corn. i. 455.
Lansdown, S'Mers. iv. 220.
Lantcgloss, Corn. i. 455.
Lanthony, Glouc, ii. 463.
Latchford, Oson. iv. 77.
Latham, Lane. iii. 304.
Lathbury, Bucks, i. 159.
Latimer, Hugh, Lcic. iii. 581.
Latton, Essex, ii. 389.
Lavant, Ea>t, Sussex, iv. 377.
Lavendon, Bucks. \. 159.
Lavcnliam, Sit/folk, iv. 275.
Laversloke, Wfts. iv. 468.
Lavington, Wilts, iv. 468.
Laud, Archbisliop, i. 90.
Laugliarnc, Carmiirthensh. iv. OQ7.
Laughor, Glamorgansh. iv. 712.
Launcells, Cor/i. i. 455.
Launceston, Corn. i. 456.
Launde, Lcic. iii. 565.
Launditcli, iVorf. iii. 627.
Law, The Iliglit Rev. John, (Bishop of
Eltliam,) i. 589.
Law, Rev. W., iii. 686.
Lawford, Little, Warw. iv. 419.
Lavhadi-n Castle, Pembrokesh. iv. 725.
Lawhitton, Corn i. 459.
Lawrence, Knit, iii. 260.
Lawrence, Slringer, ii. 144,588.
Lawson, Admiral, iv. 559.
Laxfield, Suffolk, iv. 294.
Laxton, North, iii. 659.
Layer Marney, Ester, ii. 389.
Layston, Herts, iii. 43.
Leach, North, Glouc. ii. 463.
Leachlade, Glouc. ii. 463.
Leake, Notts, iv. 23.
Learmouth, Northum. iii. 714.
Leasowes, Salop, iv. 161.
Leather-head, Surrey, iv. 338.
Leap, Hants, ii. 514.
Leckhampton, Glouc. ii. 464.
Ledbury, Hereford, ii. 592.
Lee, Kent, iii. 206.
Lee, Sir Henry, i. 168.
Leeds, Kent, iii. 207.
Leeds, Yorks. iv. 584.
Leek, Staff", iv. 26 1.
Legge, Thomas, iii. 638.
Leibourne, Kent, iii. 208.
Leicester, Leic. iii. 565.
Leicester, Sir Peter, i. 352.
Leicestershire, general description of, iii.
343.
Leigh, Essex, ii. 3911.
Leigh, Lane. iii. 3"5.
Leigh, Wilts, iv. 469.
Leigh, Wore. iv. 516.
Leighs, Essex, ii. 390.
Leighton Busard, Beds. i. 30.
Leiiton, Suffolk, iv. 280.
Leland, i. 86.
Lemmington, Northum. iii. 709.
Lenliam, Kent, iii. 208.
Lent.on, Notts, iv. 23.
Leominster, Hereford, ii. 593.
Leonard's, St., Hants, ii. 515.
Lesnes, Kent, iii. 208.
Leslingham, Yorkt. iv. 566.
Letheringhain, Suffolk, iv. 307.
Levan, Corn. i. 459.
Levan Sands, Lane. iii. 305.
Levcrton, Notts iv. 23.
Levingtop, Suffolk, iv. 291.
Lewes, Sussex, iv. 381, 383.
L.ewesdun Hill, Dorset, ii. 229.
Lewis, W. T., iii. 326.
Lewisham, Kent, iii. 209.
Lewknor, Oxon. iv. 78.
Lexington, Notts, iv. 24.
Ley, James, Wilts, iv. 486.
Leyburn, Yorks. iv. 566.
Leyton, Essex, ii. 390.
Leytonstone, Essex, ii. 391,
Lezant, Corn. i. 459.
Lilburn, North, iii. 664.
Lilburn, Richard, ii. 329.
Lilburnc, John, iii. 712.
Lillnirne Tower, Northum. iii. 712.
Lichborough, North, iii. 0(i2.
Lichfield, Hants, ii. 515.
Lichfield, Statf. iv. 239.
Liddai's Strength, Cumb. \. 594:
Liddiard-Trepore, Wilts, iv. 469-
l.iddingion, Wilts, iv. 469.
Lidlington, Beds. i. 31.
Lilford House, North, iii. 668.
Lilleslmll, Salop, iv. 162.
Lillingstone Dayrell, Bucks, i. 160.
Lilly, William, ii. 518.
Liminge, Kent, iii. 211.
Limne, Kent, iii. 209.
Linacre, Dr. T., iii. 154.
Linchdale, Bucks. \. 160.
Lincoln, Line. iii. 620.
Lincolnshire, general description of, iii. 585.
Lindby, Notts, iv. 24.
Lindley, Leic. iii. 573.
Lindridge, Devon, ii. 150.
Lindsey, Rev. Theophilus, i. 338,
Lineham, Wilts, iv. 469.
Linford, Bucks, i. 160.
Linfield, Surrey, iv. 349.
Linkinhorne, Corn. i. 459.
Linmouth, Devon, ii. 150.
Limted, Kent, iii. 211.
Linstock, Cumb. i. 594.
Linton, Camb. i. 258,
Linton, Devon, ii. 150.
Linton, Kent, iii. 211.
Liskeard, Corn. i. 459.
Lisle, Edward, ii. 508.
Li>le, Dr., ii. 212.
Listun Hall, Essex, 391.
Litlleborough, Notts, iv. 24.
Littlebury, Essex, ii 391.
Littlecot Park, Wills, iv. 409.
Littleport, Camb. iv. 762.
Littleton, Middx. iii. 512.
Littleton Drew, Wilts, iv. 470.
Li verm ere, Greal, Suffolk, ivr3l6.
Liverpool, Lane. iii. 305.
Llan, St. Sior, Denbighsh. iv. 643.
Llanafan Vawr, Brecknocksh. iv. 674.
Llanarmon, Denbighsh. iv. 642.
Llanarlh, Curdigaush. iv. 689.
Llanbadarn-Fawr, Cardigcmsh. iv. 690.
Llanbeblic, Carnarvonth. iv. 637.
Llanberis, Carnarvonsh. iv. 637.
Llandaff, Glamorgansh. iv. 7in.
Llanddew, Brecknocksh. iv. 670.
Llandewi Ystrad Ennan, Radnorsh. iv. 735.
Llanddinam, Montgotnerysh. iv. 660.
Llanddwyn, Anglesey, iv. 627.
Llandegai, Curnarvonsh. iv. 638.
Llandegla, Denbighsh. iv. 642.
Llandeilo Fawr, Carmarthensh. iv. 698.
Llandeiniolen, Carnarvonsh. iv. 638.
Llnndevailog, Brtcknocksh. iv. 674.
Llandigan, Carnarvonsh. iv. 638.
Llandonna, Anglesey, iv. 626.
Llandovery, Carmarthensh. iv. 700.
Llandough, Glamorgansh. iv. 710.
Llanedwen, Anglesey, iv. 627.
Llandy'ssilio, Anglesey, iv. 626.
Llanelian, Anglesey, iv. 628.
Llanelltyd, Merionethsh. iv. 656.
Llanelly, Carmarthensh. iv. 701.
Llanercliynifdd, Anglesey, iv. 628.
Llanerfil, Mont gome r if sh. iv. 660.
Llanfair, Montgomt'rysh. iv. 661.
Llanfair-Mathaiern Eidiaf, Anglesey, ir.
628.
Llanfair-Pwll-G»yngyll, Anglesey, iv. 628.
Llanfair, Yngliornuy, Anglesey, iv. 628.
Llanfechell, Anglesey, iv. 628.
Llanferres, Denbighsh. iv. 642.
Llanfihangell, Tre'r Bardd, Anglesey, ir.
628.
Llanfrother, Hereford, ii. 595.
Llanfyllin, Montgomerysh. iv. 661.
Llangadoc, Carmarthensh. iv. 701.
Llangadwalader, Anglesey, iv. 628.
Llangattock, Brecknocksh. iv. 674.
Llangefni, Anglesey, iv. 629.
Llangollen, Denbighsh. iv. 642.
LlangristioHs, Anglesti/, iv. 629.
Llangybi, Carnarvonsh. iv. 638.
Llangyiiyr, Carmarthen*!!, iv. 701.
Llanidan, single-set/, iv. 629.
Llanlh onvel, Brecknocksh. iv. 675.
Llanrwst, Denbighsh. iv. 643.
Llansamtfread, iirccknocksh. iv. 675.
Llansannan, Denbighsh. iv. 642.
Llanrhaiader, Denbighsh. iv. 643.
Llanspyddyd, Brecknocksh. iv. 675.
Llantrisant, Anglesey, iv. 629.
Llatmissent, Glamorgansh. iv. 71?.
Llanvawr, Merionethsh. iv. 656.
Llanvillo, Brecknock, iv. 675.
Llanwern House, Monm. iii. 570.
Uandyloes, Montgomery, iv. 661.
779
IJanymynarh, Montgomery sh. ir. 66).
Llewellyn, Martin, i. 451.
Lloyd, William, Bishop of Worcester, i. 95.
Lly-wei)> Brecknocksh. iv. 675.
Locke, John, i. 583; ii. 397; iv. 228.
Lockhay, Dcrb. ii. 67.
Lockini>ton, Leic. iii. 573.
Lockleys, Herts, iii. 58.
Loddon, Norf. iii. 627.
Loes, Suffolk, iv. 306.
Lotulago, Monm. iii. 573.
Londesbrough, Yorks. iv. 560.
London and Westminster, Middx. iii. 512.
Londvdale, Westm. iv. 43<J.
Longdon, Stnff. iv. 247.
Lop.gford, Derb ii. 68.
Longford, Middx. iii. 498.
Longford Castle, Wilts, iv. 470.
Longland, John, iv. 66.
Longleat, Wilts, iv. 470.
Longnor, Staff, iv. 261.
Longtown, Climb, i. 594.
Longtown, Hereford, ii. 566.
Longwitton Hall, Northum. iii. 715.
Longworth, Berks. i. 79.
Longworth, Hereford, ii. 596.
Looe, East and West, Corn. i. 461.
Loose, Kent, iii. 211.
Lopham, Norf. iii. 623.
Lostock Hall, Lane. iii. 312.
Lostwithiel, Corn. i. 463.
Lothingland, Suffolk, iv. 308.
Lovelace, Richard, i. 77.
Loudham Hall, Suffolk, iv. 319.
Loughborough, Leic. iii. 573.
Lou^hton, Essex, ii. 391.
Louis, Sir Thomas, ii. 139.
Lower, Sir William, i 408.
Lowestoft, Suffolk, iv. 308.
Loweswalir, Cumb. i. 595.
Lowick, North, iii. 668.
LuhbeiilMm. Leic. iii. 573.
Liil>bock, Richard, iii. 638.
Lur kington, Wilts, iv. 470.
Ludilesdon, Kent, iii. 211.
Liidlord, Line. iii. 638.
Ludger^hali, Rucks, i. 160.
LudmTshall, Wilts, iv. 470.
Ludiow, Salop, iv. 162.
Ludovnn, Corn \. 464.
LutTeiiham, Norih, Hutl. iv. 146.
Lurfrnhain, Smith, Hutl. iv. 146.
Luftield, Buck*, i. 160.
Lullingstonr, AVnf, iii. 211.
Liilwurth, Dorset, ii. 229.
Lnmley Casile, Durh. ii. 315.
-, Sir Thomas ii. 316.
. , Lord, ii. 316.
Liuidy Island, Devon, ii. 151.
Lnpton House, Devon, ii. 152.
Luscombe Home, Devon, ii. 152.
Lushinqlon, Henry, iv. 385.
Luton, Beds. i. 31.
Luton Hoo, Beds. \. 33.
Ltitterworth, Leic. iii. 573.
Lydd, Kent, iii. <m.
Lyddington, Rutl. iv. 145.
Lydford, Devon, ii. 152.
Lydgate, Suffolk, iv. 313,
Lydiate, Lunc. iii. 313.
Lyduey, Glouc. ii. 464.
Lye, Edward, ii. 190.
Lyme, Chcsh. i. 333.
Lyme Regis, Dorset, ii. 231.
Lymington, Hants, ii. 515.
Lymrn, Chesh. \. 333.
Lympstone, Devon, ii. 154.
Lynchmere, Sussex, iv. 378.
Lyiulluirst, Hants, ii. 515.
Lyndon, Hutl. iv. 141.
Lyneham, Oxon. iv. 74.
Lynn<-n, Hereford, ii. 59f>.
Lynn Regis, Norf. iii. 6 1 6.
Lyndridge, Wore. iv. 506.
Lyons-Hall Castle, Hereford, ii. 596.
Mablelhorpe, line. iii. 640.
Mahyn, Corn. i. 464.
Macclesfield, Chesh. i. 333.
Mackynbleth, Monigomerysh. iv. 662.
Mack worth, />r&. ii. 68.
Madeley, Salop, iv. 164.
Madeley, Sia/f. iv. 251.
Madern, Corn. i. 464.
Madingley, Camb. i. 259.
Madley, Hereford, ii. 5Q6.
Madrejfield, Wore. iv. 521.
Mseon, Glouc. ii. 464.
Maer, Staff, iv. 251.
MalTen, West, Northum. iii. 731.
Magdalen College, Camb. i. 230.
Maiden Bower, Beds. i. 34.
Maiden Bradlev, Wilts, iv. 470.
Maiden Castle,' Dorset ii. 233.
Maidenhead, Berks, i. 79.
Maidstone, Aenf, iii. 212.
Maker, Com. i. 465.
Maldon, Essex, ii. 391, 392.
Mailing, Kent, iii. 2 15.
Mallwyd, Merionethsh. iv. 656.
Malmsbury, WiVte. iv. 471.
Malpas, Chesh. i. 336.
Malpas Church, Monm. iii. 581.
Malsawyer, Hants, ii. 515.
Malton, Yorks. iv. 566.
Malton, Old, Yorks. iv. 566.
Malvern, Great, Wore. iv. 518.
Malvern, Little, Wore. iv. 520.
Malwood, Hants, ii. 516.
Manililf, /fore. iv. 507.
Mamhead, Devon, ii. 154.
Main Tor, Dcrb. ii. 68.
Man, Calf ni, iv. 761.
Man, grueral description of the Isle of, iv.
756.
Manchester, Lane. iii. 313.
Manning, Rev. Owen, iii. 680.
Mannmgtree, Essex, ii. 392.
Mansfield, Notts, iv. 24.
Mansfield, William, iv. 25.
Mansfield Woodhouse, Notts, iv. $6.
Mansion Court, Kent, iii. "60.
Manton, Rutl. iv. 141.
Mapledurham, Hants, ii. 516.
Mapledurham, GJCOII. iv. 78.
Maplestead, Essex, ii. 392.
Marazion, Corn. iv. 466.
March, Cumh. i. 259.
Marchwiel, Denbighsh. iv. 643.
Marcle, Hereford, ii. 596.
Marden, Wilts, iv. 473.
Margaret's, Kent, iii. 216.
Margate, Kent, iii. 252.
Marham, Ct>rn. i. 467.
Marhani, North, iii. 672.
Maridge, Devon, ii. 154.
Maristow, Devon, ii. 154.
Mark Eaton, Derb. ii. 68.
Market Street, Beds. \. 34.
Market Weighton, Yorks. IT. 560.
Markham, Notts, iv. 26.
Markland, Jeremiah, iii. 320.
Marks Hall, Essex, ii. 393.
Marlborough, Witts, iv 473,
Marlow, Great, Bticks. i. 161.
Marlow, Royal Military College of, i. 181.
Marlow, Little, Bucks, i. 163.
Marnhull, Dorset, ii. 233.
Marple, Chesh. i. 337.
Marsl'field, Glouc. ii. 464.
Marston, Oxon. iv. 70.
Marston, North, Bucks, i. 163.
Marston Morteyne, Beds. i. 34«
Marston Rock,"/)(/r/j. ii. 317.
Martin, Corn. i. 467.
Martinsley, Rutl. iv. 140.
Martinsthorpe, Rvtl. iv. 141.
Marton, Wtstm. iv. 435.
Marton, Yorks. iv. 560.
Martyns, family of, ii. 161.
Marvell, Andrew, i. 260.
Marvel Stones, Derb. ii. 68.
Maryport, Cumb. i. 595.
Marv, Queen of Scots, i. 51.
Masliam, Yorks. iv. 568.
Mason, Sir John, i. 64.
Maston, Yorks. iv. 568.
Matlock, Derb. ii. 68.
Maton, Robert, iv. 487.
Matson, Glouc. ii. 464.
Matteney, Notts, iv. 26.
Maulden, Beds. i. 34.
Maumbury, Dorset, ii. 233.
Maurice, "Dr. Henry, Anglesey, if. 629.
Mawes, Corn. i. 467.
Mawgan, Corn. i. 468.
Maxey, North, iii. 672.
Maxstoke Castle, Warvi. iv. 405.
Mayfield, Sussex, iv. 386.
Maynard, Sir John, ii. 180.
Mayne, Jasper, ii. 145.
Ma\ow, family of, i. 478. •.
Meadows, Lane. iii. 320.
Medbourne, Leic. iii. 574.
Mede, Joseph, ii. 358.
Medmenham, Bucks, i. 163.
Meend Park, Hereford ii. 597.
Megavissey, Corn. \. 470.
Meifod, Montgomerysh. iv. 662.
Melandra Castle, Derb. ii. 71.
Melbourne, Derb. ii. 71.
Melburn, Yorks. iv. 561.
Melbury Sampford, Dorset, ii. 234.
Melchborn, Beds. i. 35.
Melchett Park. Wilts, iv. 474.
Melcombe Horsey, Dorset, ii. 235.
Melcombe Bingliam, Dorset, ii. 235.
Meldreih, Cumb. i. 260.
Melford, Suffolk, iv. 275.
Melksham, Wilts, iv. 474.
Mellion, Corn. i. 468.
Melsa, Yorks. iv. 560.
Melton, Suffolk, iv. 319.
Melton, Yorks. iv. 560.
Melton Constable, Norf. iii. 626.
Melton Mowbray, Leic. iii. 575.
Membury Castle, Devon, ii. 154.
Menabilly, Corn. i. 469 ; iv. 762.
Mendham, Suffolk, iv. 294.
Mendham Priory, Norf. iii. 605.
Mendlesham, Suffolk, iv. 293.
Menheniot, Corn i. 469.
Meon, Hants, ii. 516.
780
INDEX.
Meopham, Kent, iii. 216.
Mepal, Camb. i. 260.
M<Jppershall, Beds. \. 35.
Merdon Castlt, Hants, ii. 516,
Mere, Wilts, iv. 474.
Merevale, fVarui. iv. 407.
Mereworth, Kent, iii. 216.
Meriden, Warw. iv. 410.
Merionethshire, general description of, iv.
653.
Merlin, Ambrose, iv. 696.
Merrington, Durh ii. 317.
Merryn, Corn. i. 469.
Mersea, Essex, ii. 393-
Mersham, Kent, iii. 216.
Merstham, Surrey, iv.346.
Merlhyr Tydvil, Glamorgansh. iv. 712.
Merton Park, Norf. iii. 642.
Methuen, Sir Paul, iv. 459.
Methwold, Norf. iii. 622.
Mettingham, Suffolk, iv. 319.
Michael Carliages, Corn. \. 474.
Michael Penkevil Corn. \. 474.
Michael's, Corn. i. 476.
Michael's, St. Mount, Corn. i. 470.
Michaelstow, Corn. i. 476
Mickleham, Surrey, iv.339.
Middeton Keynes, Bucks, i. 164.
Middle, Salop, iv. 164.
Middleham, Yorkt. iv. 568.
Middlesex, general description of, iii. 458.
Middleton, Durh. ii. 318.
Middleton, Lane. iii. 320.
Middleton, Afar/, .iii. 618,
Middleton, Warw. iv. 411.
Middleton, Dr. Convers, i. 246.
Middleton Cheney, "North, iii. 670.
Middleton, Stoney, Derb. ii. 72.
Middleton, Stoney, Ojwi. iv. 113.
Middlewich, Chesh. i. 337.
Midhurst, Susser, iv. 378.
Milborne Port, Somers. iv. 220.
Milliourne, St. Andrew, Dorset, ii. 235.
Milbrook, Be ds. i. 35.
Milcott, Www. iv. 396.
Mililenhall, Suffolk, iv. 305.
Mile End, Eitex, ii. 394.
Mileham, Norf. iii. 627.
MHford, Pembrokesh. iv. 725.
Mill, Cotton, North, iii. 6C7.
Milluni, Cumb. i. 595.
Milor, Corn. i. 476.
Milston, Wilts, iv. 474.
Milton, Camb. \. 261.
Milton, Dorset, ii. 235.
Milton, Kent, iii. 216.
Milton, Lane. iii. 320.
Milton, Great, Oron. iv. 1 15.
Milton, Ernest, Beds. i. 35.
Milverton, Somers. iv. 220.
Minims, Herts, iii. 43.
Minis, Middx. iii. 339.
Minehead, Somers. iv. 220.
Minshull, Chesh. i. 338.
Minster, Corn. i. 477.
Minster, Kent, iii. 242, 260.
Minster Lovel, Oxon. iv. 75.
Minte, Wilts, iv. 474.
Minver, Corn. i..477.
Miserden, Glouc. ii. 464.
Missenden, Great, Sucks, i. 164.
Misterton, Leic. iii. 574.
Mistley Hall, Essex, ii. 394.
Mitcham Grove, Surrey, iv. 351.
Mitchel, Matthew, i. 510.
Mittbrd, Norf. iii. 628.
Mitford, Northum. iii. 716.
Moccas Court, Hereford, ii. 597.
Modbury, Devon, ii. 154.
Mold, Ftintsh.w. 651.
Mollington, Chesh. i. 339.
Molyneux, Sam., i. 321.
Moneyash, Derb. ii. 72.
Mongeharn, Kent, iii. 217.
Mongewell, Oxon. iv. 79.
Monk, General, ii. 150.
Monkey Island, Berks. \. 80.
Monkland, Hereford, ii. 597.
Monkleigh, Devon, ii. 156.
Monkton, Kent, iii. 252.
Monkton Deverill, Wilts, iv. 474.
Monkton Farley, Wilts, iv. 474.
Monmouth, Monm, iii. 572, 574.
Monmouthshire, general description of, iii.
560.
Monington, Hereford, ii. 597.
Monsal Dale, Derb. ii. 72.
Monson, Sir VV., iii. 607.
Montague, Edward Wortley, ii. 175.
Montgomery, Montgomerysfi. iv. 662.
Montgomeryshire, general description of,
iv. 658.
Moor Park House, Herts, iii. 44.
Moor, Rev. James Knight, ii, 25).
Moor Tower, Line. iii. 640.
Morcot,Rutl. iv. 146.
Mordeford, Hereford, ii. 597.
Mordon Park, Surrey, iv. 33(5.
Mores, Edward Rowe, iii. 261.
Moresley Cumb. \. 596.
More Crichell, Dorset, ii. 237.
Moreton liumpstead, Devon, ii. 156.
Moreton, Glouc. ii, 465.
Moreton (Maids,) Bucks, i. 165.
Morfe, Salop, iv. 164.
Mnreland, Westm. iv. 442.
Morpeth, Northum. iii. 715.
Moipeth, Northum. iii. 716.
Morris, Captain Thomas, i. 578.
Mortimer's Cross, Hereford, ii. 597.
Murtlake, Surrey, iv. 336.
Morton, Bishop, ii. 289.
Morion, John, Archbishop of Canterbury,
ii. 208.
Morv;i, Corn. i. 478.
Morville, Hugh de, i. 593.
Morvvell, Devon, ii. 156.
Morwinstow, Corn. i. 479.
Morley, Lane. iii. 320.
Mothecombe, Devon, ii. 156.
Motienden, Kent, iii. 217.
Motteston, Isle of W. iv. 755.
Moltisfont, Hants, ii. 516. ,
Mottrain, Chesh. i. 339.
Moulsham, Essex, ii. 394.
Mountsorel. Leic. iii. 575.
Moxhull, Wurw. iv. 408.
Movie, Walter, i. 405.
Moyles Court, Hants, ii. 516.
Muccleston, Stq(f. iv. 252.
Muckelney, Somers. iv. 22.1.
Mulbarton, Norf. iii. 626.
Mulham, Yorks. iv. 587.
Muncaster, Cumb. i. 596.
Munden, Herts, iii. 45.
Muntham, Sussex, iv. 372.
Muresley, Bucks, i. 16i.
Murston, Kent, iii. 217.
Musprave, Westm. iv. 433.
M(iskluii), Notts, iv. 26.
Mutford, Suffolk, iv. 310.
Myrfin, Edward, i. 258.
Nackinglon, Kent, iii. 217.
Nacton, Suffolk, iv. 291.
Nantwich, Chesh \. 340.
Narbeith, Pembroksh. iv. 725.
Narborough, Norf. iii. 621.
Narborough, North, iii. 672.
Narisford, North, iii. 670.
Naseby, North, iii. 665.
Naseburgh, North, iii. 671.
Nash, Richard, Somers. iv. 197,
Navestock, Essex, ii. 394.
Neworth Castle, Cumb. i. 596.
Neath, Glamorgansh. iv. 713.
Needham Market, Suffolk, iv. 271.
Needingworth, Hants, iii. 84.
Nefyn, Carnarvonsh. iv. 638.
Nelson, Lord, iii. 599.
Nemnet, Somers. iv. 221.
Newbold Pacey, Wana. iv. 413.
Ncot, Corn. \. 479.
Neots, St., Hunts, iii. 84.
Neston Chesh. i. 343.
Netherby, Cumb. i. 598.
Nether Hall, Essex, ii. 395.
Nether Haven, Wilts, iv. 475.
Nether Heyford, North, iii. 673.
Netherwarden, Northum. iii. 733.
Netherwood, Hereford, ii. 598.
Netherwitton, Northum. iii. 716.
Netley Abbey, Hants, ii. 516.
Nettlebed, Oion. iv. 78.
Nettlestead, Kent, iii. 2 1 7.
Nettlested, $»#>/*, iv. 278.
Nevern, Pembraksh. iv. 727.
Newark, Notts, iv. 26.
Newbiggen, Westm. iv. 435.
Newborough, Anglesey, iv. 629.
Newhottle, tforM. iii. 670.
Newburne, Northum. iii. 709.
Newbury, Berks, i. 80.
Newcastle, Monm, iii. 577.
Newcastle, Northum. iii. 717.
Newcastle, 5^. iv. 244.
Newcastle Einivn, Carmartkenth. iv. 702 .
Newcells, Herts iii. 45,
Newdigaie, Surrey, iv. 346.
Newendcn, ATrnf , iii. 218.
Neweiiham, North, iii. 660.
Ncwent, Glouc. ii. 465.
New Hall, £j.»«r, ii. 395.
Newhaven, jDrrft ii. 72.
Newhaven, Sussex, iv. 384.
Newhouse, Devon, ii. 159.
Newington, XVnf. iii. 218.
Ncwington, Middx. iii. 539.
Newington Bints, -Surrey, iv. 336.
Newlaiid, Glouc. ii 465.
"Newton, Montgomerush. iv. 663.
Newton, Suffolk, iv. 315.
Newton, Abbots and Bushel), Devon, ii.
159.
Newton, Sir Isaac, iii. 608.
Newton Hall, Durh. ii. 318.
Newton LongueviUe, Bucks, i. 165.
Newton Poppleford, Devon, ii, 159.
Newton, Thomas, iv. 244.
Newton Toney, Wilts, iv. 475.
Newtown, Isle of W. iv. 754.
Newtown, Hantt, ii. 517.
INDEX.
781
Neyland, Suffolk, \v. 276.
Nicholas, St., Kent, iii. '252.
Nicholson, William, i 603.
Nine Barrow Down, Dorse t. ii. 237.
Newlyn, Corn i. 481.
Newmarket, Camb. i. 261.
Newmarket, Flintsh. iv. 651.
Newnham, Giouc. 11. 4f>5.
Newnton, Wilts, iv. 475.
Newport, Com. i. 481.
Newport, Essex, ii. 395.
Newport, IsleofW.w. 745.
Newport, Monm. iii. 580.
Newport, Pembrokesh. iv. 726.
Newport, Salop, iv. 164.
Newport Pagnell, Bucks, i. 165.
Newsham, Line, iii. 640.
Newsham, Northum. iii. 708.
Newstead, Notts, iv. 29.
Newton, Lane. iii. 321.
Newtown, /»fc of W. iv. 754.
Nobottle, North, iii. 673.
Nocton, iz'nc. iii. 440.
Nonington, Kent, iii. 218.
Norbury, Derb. ii. 73.
Norfolk, general description of, iii. 583.
Norhamshire, Northum. iii. 725.
Normanton, Derb. ii. 73.
Normanton, Notts, iv. 31.
Normanton, Rutl. iv. 141.
Norman Cross, Hunts, iii. 85.
North, Mrs. Dudleia, i. 258.
Northampton, North, iii. 674.
Northamptonshire, general description of,
iii. 645.
Northbourne, Kent, iii. 219.
Northcote, James, ii. 176.
North End, Middx. iii. 488.
Northrleet, Kent, iii. 219.
Northfield, Wore. iv. 513.
Northhall, Middx. iii. 540.
Northiam, Sussex, iv. 380.
Northill, Beds. i. 35.
Northill, Cora. i. 481.
Northop, Flintsh. iv. 651.
Northumberland, general description of, iii.
691.
Northwic, Wore. iv. 502.
Nortlnvich, Chesh. i. 343.
Northwold, Norf. iii. 622.
Northwood, Kent, iii. 217.
Norton, Chesh. i. 344.
Norton, Leic. iii. 576.
Norton Brize, Oar on. iv. 64.
Norton Disney, Line. iii. 640.
Norton, King's, Wore. iv. 513.
Norwich, Norf. iii. 628.
Norwood, Midds. iii. 540.
Noseley, L?ie. iii. 576.
Notley, Essex, ii. 395.
Notley Abbey, Hants, ii. 516.
Nottingham, Notts, iv. 31.
Nottinghamshire, general description of,
iv. 3.
Nottinpton, Dorset? ii. 237.
Noy, William.j. 415.
Nunham, Oron. iv. 70.
Nuneatoi), Warw. iv. 407.
N unwell, Isle of W. iv. 753.
Nunwick, Northum. iii. 727.
Nutfield, Surrey, iv 346.
Nuthall, Notts, iv. 37.
Nutwell, Devon, ii. 160.
VOL. rv.
Oadby, Leic. iii. 577.
Oakeley Park, Salop, iv. 164.
Oakham, Rutl. iv. 143.
Odkhampton, Devon, ii. 160.
Oakley, Beds. \. 36.
Oakley, Surrey, iv. 356.
Oaksry, Wilts, iv. 475.
Od.-il, Bed*, i 36.
Odiham, Hi:nts i. 517.
Odin, Derb. ;\. 73.
j Otic lunch, ffarw. iv. 417.
Ollenlumi, JPwc. iv. 504.
OrTlmin, Kent, iii. 219.
Offley, Herts, iii. 45.
Ofllo\v, Slq/f. iv. 245.
Otford, Hants, iii. 85.
Ogbnurn, JPi'to. iv. 475.
Okcndon, Essen, ii. 396.
Okcover, Staff, iv. 262.
Ol<!bury, Gtouc. ii. 467.
Oldburx, #V/)-UJ. iv. 407.
Oldbiir), Wits. iv. 475.
Old Casile. Mnnm. in. 566.
Oldliam, Lunc. ni. 321.
Oldlmrst, Hants, iii. 85.
Oliver, Di. William, i. 464.
Ollrston, Notts, iv. 37.
Olney, ButvU. i. 166.
Onecotc, Staff, iv. 262.
Onehoii-c, Suffolk, iv. 315.
Ongar, Essex, n. 396.
Onley, S //«M.-, iv. 290.
Opie, John, i. 399.
Onisall, Nttts iv. 37.
Orfonl, Svjj'olk, iv. 31 1.
Orloton, Hereford, ii. 598.
Orlingbury, JVorf/». iii. 679, 680.
Ormerod House, Lane. iii. 325.
Ormesby, Leic. iii. 640.
Ormington, Dorset, ii. 237.
Ormond, Duke of, ii. 66.
Ormshead, Westm. iv. 435.
Ormskirk, Lane. iii. 325.
Orpington, Kent, iii. 220.
Orton, Cuinb. i. 602.
Orion, Westm. iv. 435.
Osbaston, Leic. iii. 577.
O.sborn, Sir John, i. 19.
Osmaston, Derb. ii. 74.
Osmondestone, Norf. iii. 603.
Ospringe, Kent, iii 220.
Oswald, King of Northumberland, i. 593.
Oswaldeslow, Wore, iv 515.
Oswestry, Salop, iv. 165.
Osythr Essejc, ii. 396.
Otes, Essex, ii. 397.
Otford, Kent, iii. 220.
Otham, Kent, iii. 220.
Olley, Yorks. iv. 587.
Olterburne Castle, Northum. iii. 726.
Otterden, A'enf, iii. 221.
Otterton, Devon, ii. 160.
Query, St. Mary, Devon, ii. 161.
Over, Chesh. i.344.
Peover, Chesh. i. 344.
Over Asley, Staff1, iv. 255.
Overborough, Lane. iii. 326.
Overlniry, Wore. iv. 52.
Overbury, Thomas, ii. 437.
Overtoil, Flintsh. iv. 652.
Overtoil Market, Rutl. iv. 136.
Overton, Hants, iii. 85.
Ovingham, Northum. iii. 731.
Oullon, Suffolk, iv, 300.
9 M
Oundle, North, iii. 682.
Ouston, Leic. iii. 577.
Owen, Thomas iv. 489.
Owen, Sir John, iv. 639.
Owthorpe, Notts, iv. 37.
Oxburgh, Norf. iii. 621.
Oxenden, Great, North, iii. 683.
Oxenham, family of, ii. 159.
Oxford, Oion. iv. 79.
Oxfordshire, general description of, iv. 54.
i Oxton, Notts, iv. 31, 37.
i Oxton House, Devon, ii. 161.
Packington, JVarw. iv. 410.
Padbury, Buck*. \. 167.
Paddington, Middr. iii. 540.
Padsiow, Corn. \. 481.
Paine's Castle, Radnorsh. iv. 734.
Pain's Hill, Surrey, iv. 340.
Painswick, Gtouc. ii. 467.
PakefiVId, Suffolk, iv. 310.
Pakenhain, Suffolk, iv. 316.
Palavicini, Sir Hnralto, i. 206.
Peleologus, Thomas i. 453.
Pailemnick Gu-.-n Middi iii. 491.
Pallinsbinn, Northum. iii. 713.
Pancras, Middi. iii. 541.
Pangborne, Berks, i. 82.
Panshanger, Herts iii. 46.
Pantfield, Essex, ii. 397.
Papcasllc, Cumb. i. 603.
Papillion Hall, Leic. iii. 577.
Papplewick, Notts, iv. 30, 37.
Parham, Suffolk, iv. 312.
Parkham, Sussex, iv 370.
Park 1'arm, Hants, ii. 518.
Park Place, Berks, i. 83.
Parker, Dr. Samuel, iii. 679.
Parker, Malthew, iii. 637.
Parkgate, Chesh. \. 345.
Parkyns, Sir Thomas, iv. 15.
Paris, Matthew, i. 244.
Parnham, Dorset, ii. 237.
Parr, Thomas, iv. 178.
Parr, Catherine, iii. 663.
Parson's Green, Middx. iii. 488.
Parwich, Derb. ii. 74.
Passenham, North, iii. 657.
Pateley Bridge, Yorks. iv. 587,
Pateshull, North, iii. 686.
Patrington, Yorks. iv. 560,
Pavenham, Beds. i. 36.
Paul, Corn. i. 482.
Paul, Yorks. iv. 560.
Pauler's Purv, North, iii. 658.
Pauntley, Gtouc. ii. 468.
Paxton, Hants, iii. 86.
Peasemore, Berks, i. 84.
Peckham, Kent, iii. 221.
Pedmore, (fore. iv. 514.
Pelham, Herts, iii. 46.
Peele, Isle of Man. iv. 760.
Pelynt, Corn. i. 483.
Pemberton, Sir F. iii. 22.
Petnbridge, Hereford, ii. 598.
Pembroke, Pembrokesh. iv. 727.
Pembrokeshire, general description of. iv.
716.
Penboyr, Carmartliemh. iv. 702.
Pencomb, Hereford, ii. 598.
Pendarves, Corn. i. 483.
Penistone, Yorks. iv. 587.
Penkridne, Sto^. iv. 239.
Penniorfa, Carnarconsh. iv. 638.
782
INDEX.
Penmynnydd, Anglesey, iv. 629.
1'emi, Bucks. i. 167.
Pennant, Thomas, iv. 653.
Penpont, Brecknoeksh. iv. 676.
Penrhyn Castle, Canwrvonsh. iv. 639.
Penrilh, Cumb. i. 603.
Penryn, Corn. i. 484.
Pensford, Somers. iv. 221.
Penshurst, Kent, iii. 221.
Pemilly Castle, Corn. i. 483.
Pentraeth, Anglesey, iv. 630.
Penwoitham, Lane. iii. 326.
Penyard Castle, Hereford, ii. 598.
Penybont, Radnorsli. iv. 735.
Penzance, Corn. i. 485.
Peppeharrow, Surrey, iv. 342.
Percival, Lane. iii. 335.
Perdiswell, Wore. iv. 516.
Perfore, Surrey, iv. 343.
Perran, Corn. i. 487.
Pershore, Wore. iv. 516, 521.
Pertenhall, Beds. i. 36.
Peterborough, North, iii. 680.
Peters, Hugh, i. 428.
Peter's, St., Kent, iii. 258.
Petersfield, Hants, ii. 518.
Petersham, Surrey, iv. 343>.
Petherwin, Corn. i. 488.
Petre, Sir William, ii. 139.
Pettingham, Staff, iv. 154.
Petty, William, ii. 525.
Petworth, SUSKX, iv. 370.
Pevensey, Sussex, iv. 384, 386.
Peytyn Gwyn, Brecknoeksh. iv. 676.
Philippa, ii. 214.
Philips, Catherine, iv. 682.
Phillack, Corn. \. 488.
Pickering, Yorks. iv. 568.
Pickwell, Leic. iii. 577.
Pickworth, Rutl. iv. 139-
Picton Castle, Pombrocksh. iv. 726.
Pkldeton, Dorset, ii. 237.
Piercefield, Monm. iii. 572.
Piersbndge, Dark. ii. 318.
Pierre, St.. Monm. iii. 571.
Pillaton, Corn. i. 4S8.
Pillesdon, Dorset, ii. 238.
Pilling Moss, Lane. iii. 336.
Pilton, Devon, ii. 162.
Pilton, Rutl. iv. 146.
Pimpern, Dorset, ii. 238.
Pinchbeck, Z./BC. iii. 640.
Pindley, Wariu. iv. 396.
Pmnenden Heath, Kent, iii. 121.
Pinner, Middx. iii. 498.
Pipeirell Abbey, North, iii. 659.
Pirehill, Staff, iv. 250.
Pirlon, Oxon. iv. 1 10.
Pirbury, Hertford, ii. 599.
Pit-ford, M)rtA. iii. 685.
Pitston Bucks, i. 167.
Pitl, Rev. Christopher, ii. 211.
Pitt, William, iii. 201.
Pitts, John, ii. 498.
Pixley Hall, Norf. iii. 625.
Place, Francis, ii. 383.
Plavford, Suffolk, iv. 290.
Pleasley, Notts, iv. 25, 37.
Pleshy, Essfjc, ii. 397.
Plomesgate, Suffolk, iv. 31 1.
Plot, Dr. Robert, 119.
Plough, John, Notts, iv. 3t7.
Plotighley, Oxon. iv. 112.
Pluckly, Kent, iii. 222.
Plume, Dr. Essex, ii. 392.
Plumstead, Kent, iii. 222.
Plumlre, Notts, iv, 45.
Plymouth, Devon, ii. 162.
Plymouth Dock, Devon, ii. 167.
Plympslock, Devon, ii. 173.
Plympton, Devon, ii. 172.
Plympton, St. Mary, Devon, ii. 172.
Pocklington, Yorks. iv. 561.
Pokeswell, Dorset, ii. 23S.
Polebrook, .Noto. iii. 682.
Polesworth, Wurw. iv. 411.
Polperro, Corn. i. 488.
Poltmore, Devon, ii. 173.
Pomfret, Thomas, i. 33.
Ponsonby, Cumb. i. 606.
Pontefract, Yorks. iv. 587.
Ponteland, Northum. iii. 70S.
Ponton, Line. iii. 640.
Pontypool, Monm. iii. 569.
Pool, Montgomerysh. iv. 663.
Poole, Dorset, ii. 238.
Poole's Hole, Derb. ii. 75.
Poplar, Middx. iii. 547.
Porclage, John, i. 88.
Porlock, Somers iv. 221.
Person, Richard, iii. 624.
Portbury, Somers. iv. 221.
Porten-.tale-, Cumb. i. 606.
Portishead, Somers. iv. 221.
Portland, Dorset, ii. 238.
Portscewit, Monm. iii. 57'.
Portsmouth, Portsea, Hants, ii. 519; iv.
763.
Portswood House, Hants, ii. 524.
Postling, A'«it, iii. 212.
Pottens, Staff', iv. 253.
Potter's Pery, North, iii. 658.
Potton, Beds. i. 36.
Poughill, Corn. i. 438.
Poulton, Chesh. i. 345.
Poulton, ianc. iii. 32fl.
Poulton, Wi/ty iv. 475.
Poulton's, Hants, ii. 524.
Poundlniry Camp, Dorset, ii. 244.
Poundstock, Corn. i. 489.
Poudeham Castle, Devon, ii. 173.
Poynings, Sussex, iv. 384.
Poynton, C/<e4-/t. i.34,5.
Powick, Worc.lv. 516.
Pratt, S. Jackson, ni. 84.
Prescot, Lane. iii. 326.
Preshute, Wilts, iv. 476.
Prestbury, Chesh. i. 345.
Prestbury, Glouc. ii, 468.
Presteigne, ttadnorsh. iv. 734.
Preston, Kent, iii. 222.
Preston, Zawc. iii. 327.
Preston, Kutl.iv. 142.
Preston Long, York<s. iv. 586.
Preston, Dr. J., iii 673.
Prestwich, Lane, iii 328.
Prestwood, Staff", iv. 255.
Prestwould, J inc. iii. 577.
Preve Park, Hfmts. ii. 524.
Prichard, Rev. Rees, iv. 701.
Prideaux, Deaii, i. 460, 462.
Primrose Hill, Middx. ill, 792.
Prinknash, G/o«c. ii. 468.
Prior, Matthew, ii. 262.
Prior, Rev. )., iii. 3.51.
Pr;Ulewe!l, Essex, ii. 398.
Probus, Corn. i. 489.
Prudhoe Castle, Northum. iii. 740.
Purklechurch, Glouc. ii. 46S,
Puokeridge, Herts, iii. 4(i.
Pmldington, Beds. i. 37.
Pulteney, Richard, Li'ic. iii, 573.
Purbec'k. Dorset, ii. 244.
Purchas, Samuel, ii. 402.
Purfleet, Essex, ii. 398.
Purley, Berks, i. 85.
Purton, Wilts, iv. 476.
Pusey, Berks, i. 85,
Putney, Surrey, iv. 336.
Puttenliam, .Surrey, iv. 342.
Pwllheli, Carnarvansh. iv. 639,
Quainton, Bucks, i. 167.
Quaremlon, Bucks, i. 168.
Quarles, Francis, ii. 399.
Queenborough, Kent, iii. 242.
Queen's College, Camb. i. 226.
Quenby, Leic. iii. 577.
Queninglon. Glouc. ii. 468.
Quicldenhain Hall, Norf. iii. 623.
Quorndon, Leic. iii. 577.
Raby Castle, Durh. ii. 318.
Raikhealh, Norf. iii, 641.
Racton, Sussex, iv. 378.
Radbourn, /)«•&. ii. 75.
Radclift'e, Leic. iii. 577.
Radcliffe, Notts., iv. 37.
Kadford, Notts, iv. 37.
Uadigu nil's Abbev, ^TcH^, iii. 2.23.
Radnor, Radnorslt. iv. 734-
Radnorshire, geuera! description of, iv.
731.
Radway, Warw. iv. 412.
Radwell, Beds. i. 37.
Ragland, Monm. iii. 5721.
Raine, Essex, ii. 398.
Rainham, Kent, iii. 223. -
Rainham Hall, Norf. iii. 619.
Kainow, Chesh. i. 345.
Raisin, Line. iii. 641.
Rakecialc, ia'c. iii. 578.
Raleigh, Sir Walter, ii. 145.
Rame, Corn. i. 490.
Rarnpisham, Dorset, ii. 245.
Rampside, Wulney, &c. Lane. iii. 328.
Rampton, Notts, iv. 38.
Ramsbury, Wilts, iv. 476.
Ramsay, Isle of Man, iv. 701.
Ramsey, Hunts, iii. 80.
Ramsgale, Aejrf, iii. 259.
Ramsholt, Suffolk, iv. 319.
Randolph, Thomas, iii. 660.
Ratby, Leic. iii. 578.
Ratcfiffe, Mdrfj. iii. 547.
Ratcliffe, Thomas, Eail of Susses, ii. 317.
Ratley, Warw. iv. 411.
Ravendale, Line. iii. 441.
Ravenglass, Cumb. i. 606.
Raveningham Hall, Norf. iii. 602.
Ravensbury Castle, Herts, iii. 47.
Ravenstone, Bucks, i. 169,
Ravensworth Castle, Diuih. iL 319.
Ravenstone-dale. Wettm. iv. 435.
Ravenswort, Yorks. ir. 568,
Raunds, -North, iii. 666.
Ra\ , John, Esse.x, ii. 396.
Rayleigb, Essex, ii. 39S.
Reach, Camb. i. .262.
Reading, Berks, i. 85.
Redcar, Yorks. iv.. 569.
Reculver and Richborough, Kent:, iii. C23.
INDEX.
783
Redbourne, Herts, iii. 47.
Redbridge, Hants. \\. 524.
Redditch, Wore. iv. 514.
Redesdale, Northum. iii. 726.
Redgrave, Suffolk, iv. 293.
Redland Court, Glouc. ii. 468.
RcdliiiRfield, Suffolk, iv. 294.
Redrutli, Corn. i. 490.
Red Rice, Hants, ii. 524.
Reedham, Norf. iii. 642.
Reepbam, Norf. iii. 609.
Reetli, Yorks. iv. 588.
Reigate, Surrey, iv. 345.
Relph, The Rev. Jo-iiah, i. 609.
Ri-menhani, Berks, i. 92.
Rempslone, Notts, iv. 39.
Rendcombe, Glouc. ii. 469.
Rendlesliain, Suffolk, iv. 307.
Repton, £er6. ii. 75.
Rcstormel Castle, Corn. i. 491.
Retford, Notts, iv. 33.
Revesby, Line. iii. 441.
Reydon, Su/olk, iv. 280.
Reynolds, Sir Joshua, ii. 172.
Rhayader, Radnorsh. iv. 735.
Rhyddlan, Flintsh. iv. 652.
Ribbesford, Wore. iv. 507.
Ribchester, LOHC. iii. 329.
Richard's Castle, Hereford, ii. 599.
Richmond, Surrey, iv. 344.
Richmond, Yorks. iv. 569.
Rickmansworth, Herts, iii. 47.
Ricot Park, Oxon. iv. 77.
Ridge Hill, Dorset, ii. 246.
Ridgemont, Beds. i. 37.
Ridgwell, £M«, ii. 398.
Ridley, Humphrey, iv. 25.
Ridlington, Hut I. iv. 142. .
RingwoiHd, Kent, iii. 227.
Ringwood, Hants, ii. 524.
Ripley, Surrey, iv. 354.
Ripley, 1'orA*. iv. 583.
Ripley Court, Kent, iii. 263.
Ripon, Yorks. iv. 589.
Ripple, Kent, iii. 227.
Ripton, Hants, iii. 87.
Risborough Prince's, Bucks, i. 169.
, Monk's, Bucks, i. 170.
Risbridge, Su/olk, iv. 312.
Risdon, Tristram, ii. 120.
Riselip, Middx. iii. 542.
Rising, A'or/. iii. 618.
Risley, Deri. ii. 77.
Ritso'n, Joseph, ii. 328.
Rivenuall, Essex, ii. 398.
Rivington, Lane. iii. 32Q.
Robertson, Joseph, iv. 441.
Robin Hood's Bay, Yorks. iv. 569.
Robinson, Mary, i. 105, iv. 211.
Robinson, Matthew, iii. 204.
Rocester, Staff, iv. 262.
Roche, Corn. i. 492.
Rochester, Kent, iii. 227.
Rochester, Northum. iii. 727.
Rochdale, Lane. iii. 329.
Rochford, Essex, ii. 398.
Rock, Northum. iii. 701.
Rock, Wore. iv. 507.
Rockcliff, Cumb. \. 607.
Rock Savage, Chesh. i.346.
Rodborough, Glouc. ii. 469.
Roddam, Northum. iii. 712.
Rodings, Essex, ii. 398.
Rodmarton, Glouc. ii. 469.
Rodmersham, A'raf, iii. 235.
Roehampton, Surry, iv. 336.
Roe, Thomas, ii. 390.
Rokesae, Beds, i 37.
Rolleston Park, Staff, iv. 247.
Rolvcnden, Kent, iii. 235.
Romford, Essei, ii. 399.
Roniney, Kent, iii. 235.
Roinney, George, iii. 292.
Ropesley, Line. iii. 441.
Rose Castle, Cumb. i. 607.
Rose Hill, Hereford, ii. 599.
Ross, Hereford, ii. 600.
Rossington, Yorks. iv. 591.
Rosslyn House, Middx. iii. 492.
Rostherne, Chesh. i. 346.
Rothly, Lcic. iii. 579.
Rothbury, Northum. iii. 710,
Rotheras, Hereford, ii. 601.
Rotherfield, Suwej:, jv. 387.
Rolherficld, Oxon. iv. 67.
Rotherfield Grays, Oxon. iv.67.
Rolherham, Yorks. iv. 591.
Rotherhithe, Surrey,\v. 336.
Rotherwick, Hants, ii. 524.
Ruthtey Caslle, Northum. iii. 715.
Rothwell, ATor//i. iii. 683.
Rougham, Suffolk, iy. 3l6.
Rouse Lench, Wore. iv. 521.
Ronsham, Ojron. iv. 128.
Routon, Sfa/?: iv. 252.
Rowe, Nicholas, i. 12.
Roxby, Line. iii. 441.
Roxholme, Line. iii. 442.
Roydon, Kent, iii. 236.
Royston, Camb. i. 262.
Royston, Herts, iii. 47.
Royton, jtanc. iii. 321.
Ruabon, Denbighsh. iv. 643.
Ruan, Corn. i. 492, 493.
Ruckholt, Essex, ii 399.
Rudbaxton, Pembroksh. iv. 724.
Rudd, Joseph, ii. 328.
Ruddington, Notts, iv. 39.
Rudgeley, Staff", iv. 239.
Riidhealb, Chesh. i. 346.
Rudstan, Yorks. iv. 561.
Rufford, Notts, iv. 39.
R afford Hall, Lane. iii. 330.
Rugby, Wariu. iv. 419.
Rumburgh, Suffolk, iv. 280.
Rumsey, Hants, ii. 524.
Rumstead, Afen*, ii. 240.
Runcorn, Chesh. i. 346.
Rungton, South, A'orf. iii. 601.
Runswick, Yorks. iv. 569.
Rusby, Richard, Dr., i. 193.
Rushall, Staff", iv. 2-17.
Rusiibrook Hall, Suffolk, iv. 316.
Rushford, Norf. iii. 624.
Rushin, Isle of Man, iv. 757.
Rushton, North, iii. 683.
Russel Farm, Herts, iii. 48.
Russel, family of, i. 13.
Russel , Rev. Thomas, ii. 207.
Ruston, East, Norf. iii. 624.
Rutchester, Northum. iii. 731.
Ruthin, Denbighsh. iv. 644.
Rutlandshire, general description of, iv.
131.
Rycaut, St. Paul, ii.67.
Rye, Sussex, iv. 380.
Ryde, Isle of Wight, iv. 753.
Ryhall, Rutl. iv. 139.
t Rylon, Diirh. 51. 320.
I Ryves, family of, ii. 212.
j Sacombe, Herts, iii. 48.
Sadbcrge, Durh. ii. 320.
Sadli r, Ralph, iii. 50.
Saintlniry, Glouc. ii. 469.
Salesbury Hall, Lane. iii. 330.
Salford, Lane. iii. 331.
Salisbury, Wilts, iv. 476.
Salkel' , Cumb. i. 608.
Sail, N-tf. iii. 609.
Saltasi., Com. i. 493.
Saltflect, Line. iii. 442.
Saltrain, Devon, ii. 175.
Saltwood, Kent, iii. 236.
Samford, Suffolk, iv. 314.
Samlesbury.'iflHc. iii. 331.
Sampford, Devon, ii. 176.
Sancreed, Corn. i. 494.
Sandbarh, Chesh. i. 347.
Sanby, Paul, iv. 13.
Sandented, Surrey, iv. 351.
Sandford, Captain, i. 341.
Sandgate, Kent, iii. 236.
Sandisfoot Castle, Dorset, ii. 246.
Sandleford, Berks, i. 92.
Sandon, Essei, ii. 399.
Sandon, Staff, iv. 253.
Sandwich, Kent, iii. 236.
I Sandy, Beds. i. 37.
Sandy, Dr. Richard, i. 160.
Sandys, Dr. Edwin, iii. 298.
Sanford, Oxon. iv. 70.
Sapen, Suffolk, iv. 312.
Saperton, Glouc. ii. 469.
Sarnesfield, Hereford, ii. 601.
Savernake, Wilts, iv. 482.
Saughall, Chesh. i. 347,
Saumlerson, Dr. Nicholas, i. 208.
Sawbridgeworth, Herts, iii. 43.
Sawlty, Yorks. iv. 592.
Sawston, Camb. i. 262.
Sawtrey, Hants, iii. 87.
Sawyer, Robert, ii. 513.
Saxhain, Suffolk, iv, 318.
Saxmundham, Suffolk, iv. 312.
Scadbury, Kent, iii. 160.
Scaleby, Cum*, i. 608.
Scamoor, Yorks. iv. 571.
Scampton, Line. iii. 442.
Scampston, Yorks. iv. 561.
Scarborough, Yorks. iv. 569.
Scarborough, Sir Charles, i. 418.
Scarisbrick, Lane. iii. 331.
Scilly, Corn. i. 494.
Screveton, Notts, iv. 40.
Scrooby, Notts, iv, 40.
Scrope Adrian, Line. iii. 608.
Scot, Michael, i. 596.
Sculcoales, Yorks. iv. 562.
Seacourt, Berks. \. 92.
Seaford, Sussex, iv. 387.
Seaham, Durh ii. 320.
Seal, Sussex, iv. 372.
Scale, A'fn<, iii. 239.
Seaton, Cumb. i. 609.
Seaton, Devon, ii. 176.
Seaton, Durh. ii. 320.
Seaton, Northum. iii. 707.
Seaton, Avfl. iv. 146.
Sebengham, Cumb. i. 609.
Sechey, Norf. iii. 618.
Seckford Hall, Suffolk, iv. 200.
784
INDEX,
Seckington, Warta. iv. 411.
Sedburgh, York». iv. 592.
Sedgefield, Durh ii. 320.
Sedley, Sir Charles, iii. 113.
Seen,' Wilts, iv. 482.
Sefton, Lane. iii. 331.
Seglull, Northum. iii. 707.
Seisclqn, Staff, iv. 254.
Selborne, Hants, ii. 525.
Selhy, Yorks. ii. 593.
Selluby Hall, Durh. ii. 321.
Selsea, Sussex, iv 378.
Selwood Forest, Wilts, iv. 482.
Semer, Suffolk, iv. 292.
Senan, Corn. i. 500.
Send, Surrey, iv. 355.
Sempringbam, Line. iii. 442.
Seraptoft, Leic. iii. 579.
Serby, Notts, iv. 40.
Serlby Hall, Notts, iv. 14.
Settle, Yorks. iv. 593.
Settle, Etkanaih, i. 25.
Seven Oaks, Kent. iii. 239.
Sevenhampton, Wilts, iv. 482.
Severn Stoke, Wore. iv. 522.
Sewarrl, Ann, ii. 56; iv. 242.
Sewardsley Abbey, North, iii. 657.
Shacklewell, Middi. iii 4s9.
Shaftesbury, Dorset, ii. 246.
Shaftesbury, family of, ii. 262.
Shag's Heath, Dorset, ii. 249.
Shakerley, Sir George, i. 297.
Shakespeare, William, iv. 399.
Shaldon, Devon, ii. 177.
Shalford, Surrey, iv. 332.
Shalleston, Bucks, i. 170.
Shanklin Chine, Isle of W. iv. 752.
Sharnbrook, Beds. i. 37.
Sharpenhoe, Beds. i. 38.
Sliarpham, Devon, ii. 177.
Shaw, Berks, i. 92.
Shebbeare, Dr., ii. 1 12.
Sheffield, Yorks. iv. 593.
Shefford West, Berks, i. 92.
Shelbrook -Lawn, North iii. 663.
Sheldwich, Kent, iii. 240.
Shelford, Notts, iv. 40.
Shelford, Great, Camb. i. 262.
. , Little, Camb. i.263.
Shengay, Camb. i.263.
Shenley, Herts, iii. 49.
Shenley, Bucks, i. 170.
Shrnstone, Staff, iv. 247.
Sheperton, Middx. iii. 543.
Shepeshead, Leic. iii. 579.
Shepey, Kent, iii. 240.
Shepreih, Camb. i. 263.
Sliepton Mallet, Somers. iv. 221.
Sherburn, Yorks. iv.594.
Sherborne, Dorset, ii. 249.
Sherborne, Glnuc. ii. 469.
Sherborne, Hants, ii. 526.
Sherborne Castle and Lodge, Dorset, ii. 252.
Sherbourne House, Ditrh. ii. 321.
Sheriff Hutlon, Yorks. iv. 571.
Sherlock, Dr. Richard, i. 357.
Shermanbury, Sussex, iv. 372.
Sherstnn, W'ilts. iv. 482.
Sherwood, Notts, iv. 41.
Sheviock, Corn, i 500.
Shields, North, Northum. iii. 706.
Sh elds, South, Durh. ii. 322.
Shiffnall, Salop, iv. 166.
Shifford, Oxon. iv. 64.
Shilton, Devon, ii. 177.
Shilton, Leic. iii. 579.
Shincliffe Hall, Durh. 324.
Shingles, Hants, ii. 526.
Shipbourne, Kent, iii. 243.
Shiplake, Oxon. iv. 67.
Shipley, Sussex, iv. 372.
Shipmeadow, Suffolk, iv. 31g.
Shipley, /)er&. ii. 77.
Shipley House, Durh. ii. 324.
Shipston, Wore. iv. 504.
Shire, Surrey, iv. 332.
Shirbourn Castle, Oxon. iv. iii.
Shirley, LVrft. ii. 78.
Shirland, /)erZ>. ii. 78.
Shittlington, Beds. i. 38.
Shobdon, Herejord. ii. 601.
Shocklach, C/ie.s/1. i. 348.
Shoebury, Essef, ii. 400.
Shooter's Hill, Kent, iii. 244.
Shoreham, Kent, iii. 244.
Shoreham, Sussex, iv. 372.
Shorn Clilfe, A'enf, iii. 244.
Shorne, Kent, iii 244.
Shortgrove, Essex, ii. 400.
Shottery, Warw. iv. 39'.
Shottesbroke, Berks, i. 92.
Shottingtcn Hill, Kent, iii. 245.
Shottisham, J!Vbr£ iii. 625.
Sbotwick, Chesh. i. 348.
Shrewsbury, Salop, iv. 166.
Shrewton, Wilts, iv. 482.
Shrivenham Berks, i. 93.
Shrophum, .Wor/. iii. 638.
Shropshire, general description of, iv. 148.
Shuckburgh, Warw. iv. 421.
Shugborough, Staff, iv. 263-.
Shustoke, Warw. iv. 407.
Shute, Devon, ii. 177.
Sibertoft, A^OT'fA. iii. 683.
Siblhorpe, jVo«.». iv. 29.
Siddington, Glouc. ii. 470.
Sidmoutli, Devon, ii. 177.
Sidnaceslcr, Line. iii. 443.
Sulncy Sussex, ditto, Camb. i. 235.
Siffivernes, Herts, iii. 49.
Silchester, Hunts, ii. 526.
Sileby, Ze/c. iii. 579.
Silves'ton, North, iii. 663.
Simcoe, Dr. Graves, ii. 192,
Simmon?, Dr., iii. 239.
Simonburn, Northum. iii. 727.
Simpson, Thomas, iii. 353.
Sissingluirst, Kent, iii. 163.
Sithney, Corn. i. 500.
Sittintjbourn, Kent, iii. 245.
Sixhill, Line. iii. 443.
Skenfreth, Monm. iii. 573.
Skeffington, Ltie. iii. 579.
Skegner.s, Line. iii. 443.
Skinner, ii. T. G., 5S9.
Skinner, S"bert, Robert, iii. 685.
Skipsea, Yorks. iv. 561.
Skipton, Yorks. iv. 594.
Skirlaugh, Yorks. iv. 56!.
Skirwitli, Cumb. i. 610.
Slaplon Lea, Devon, ii. 177.
Slaughtered, Wilts, iv. 483.
Sleatord, Line. iii. 443.
Sledmere, Yorks. \v. 5fi}.
Slimbridge, Glouc. ii. 470.
Slindon, Sussex, iv. 378.
Slough, Bucks i. 170.
Smallridge, Staff, iv. 244.
Smarden Kent, iii. 246.
Smart, Christopher, iii. 243.
Smeaton, Yorks. iv. 571.
Smeaton, Mr., ii. 125.
Smedmore, Dorset. 252.
Smeilley Hail, Lane. iii. 332.
Smeeth. Kent, in. 246.
Smith, J'>hn, iii. 661.
Smith, Sir Thomas, i. 1Q3, 227.
Smith, Miles ii. 5S8.
Sniitlidon, Norf. iii 640.
Smithills Hall, Lane. iii. 332.
Snaith, Yorks. iv. 595.
Snarehall Lodge, Norf. iii. 624.
Siieinton, Notts, iv. 42.
Snilterton, Derb. ii 78.
Snodhill, Herejord. ii. 601.
Sodbury, Glouc. ii. 470.
Soham, Camb. i. 263.
Soliluill, IVanK. iv. 410.
Sombourni>, Hants, ii. 527.
Somerford Grange, Hants, ii. 527.
Somerley, Suffolk, iv. 310.
Somers Town, Middi. iii. 542.
Somersetshire, general description of, ir.
182.
Somersham, Hants, iii. 87.
Somerton, Oxon. iv. 113. •
Somerton, Somers. iv. 222.
Somerton Castle, Line. iii. 443.
Sotterley Hall, Suffolk, iv. 319.
Southall, Middi. iii. 540.
Soulham, Glouc. ii. 470.
Snutham, Warw. iv. 420.
Southampton, Hants, ii. 52S.
Southampton, the Lord Treasurer, i. 181.
Southend, Essex, ii. 400.
SouthnYet, Kent. iii. 246.
Southgate, Middi. iii. 485.
Southill, #cd.s. i. 38.
Southington, Hants ii. 532.
South Motilton, Devon, ii. 178.
Southwark, Surrey, iv. 346.
Southwell, Notts, iv. 42.
Southwick, Hants, ii. 532.
Southwold, Suffolk, iv. 280.
Soulbury, Bucks, i. 170.
Sowerby, Ca»)4. i. 610. .
Sowerby, Yorks. iv. 571.
Sowley," Hunts, ii. 533.
Spaldington, yorib. iv. 562.
Spaldwick, Hants, iii. 89.
Sparsholt, Berfo. i. 93.
Speed, John, i. 329.
Speedwell Level, Derb. ii. 78.
Speen, Berks, i. 94.
Speke Hall, Lane. iii. 332.
Speldhurst, Kent, iii. 247.
Spelhoe, North, iii. 684.
Spitchley, Wore. iv. 516.
Spettisbury, Dorset, ii. 253.
Spilsby, Zinc. iii. 444.
Spindeston, North, iii. 702.
Spittal, Line. iii. 445.
Spratton, North, iii. 685.
Sprowston, Norf. iii. 641.
Springfield, Essex, ii. 400.
Staden, Low, Zterft. ii. 78.
Stafford, Staff, iv. 256.
Staffordshire, general description of, iv.
232.
Staines, Middx. iii. 543.
Staindrop, Durh. ii. 325.
Stainland, Yorks, iv. 595.
INDEX.
785
Stainton, Yorks. iv. 571.
Staithes, Yorks. iv. 571.
Stalbridge, Dorset, ii. 253.
Staley Bridge, Lane. iii. 33i.
Stamford, Line. iii. 445.
Stamford Bason, Line. iii. 447.
Stamford Bridge, Yorks. iv. 562.
Stamfordham, Northum. iii. 73 1 .
Stanborough, Devon, ii. 178.
Stanbridge, John, iii. 672.
Standiih, Lane. iii. 332.
Standlynch, Wilts, iv. 483.
Standon, Herts, iii. 49.
Stanford, Berks, i. 94.
Stanford, North, iii. 664.
Stanford, Notts, iv. 44.
Stanford, Wore. iv. 507.
Stanford Hall, Leic. iii. 579.
Stanhope, Durh. ii. 325.
Stanhope, Low, Derb. ii. 79.
Stanliope, William, ii. 56.
Stanley, Glove, ii. 471.
Stanley, Wilts, iv. 483.
Stanmore, Midd.c. iii. 544.
Stannington, Northum. iii. 70S.
Stansted, Essex, ii. 400.
Stansted, Herts, iii. 50.
Stanton, Derb. ii. 79.
Stanton, Glouc. ii. 471.
Stanton, Hants, iii. 89.
Stanton, Notts, iv. 44.
Stanton, Sta^". iv. 252.
Stanton, Wilts, iv. 483.
Stanton Drew, Somers. iv. 222.
Stanton Harcourt, O*on. iv. 125.
Stanton, Long, Camb. i. 264.
Stanton Prior, Somers. iv. 222.
Stanway, Essex, ii. 400.
Stanwell, Middx. iii. 545.
Stanwick, North, iii. 667.
Stanwick, Cumb. i. 611.
Staple, Afen*, iii. 247.
Stapleclon, Bishop, ii. 130.
Stapleford, Leic. iii. 579.
Stapleford, Notts, iv. 37.
Stapleforrl, Notts, iv. 44.
Staplelmrst, Kent, iii. 247.
Stapleton, Glouc. ii. 471.
Starkirk, Lane. iii. 332.
Staveley, Leic. iii. 365.
Staveston, North, iii. 662.
Staunton, I.«'c. iii. 579.
Staunton, Notts, iv. 29.
Staunton, Notts, iv. 44.
Staunton, Wore. iv. 522.
Stayenhoo, Herts, iii. 54.
Steanc, North, iii. 670.
Stede, /.a?ic. iii. 332.
Stephen, Corn. i. 501.
Stepney, Middx. iii. 545,
Sterne, Simon, iv. 25.
Sterne, Dr., i.607.
Stevenage, Herts, iii. 50.
Sterenton, Beds. i. 39-
Steventon, Berks, i. 94.
Stetchworih, Camb. i. 264.
Stewkley, Bucks, i. 171.
Steyning, Sussex, iv. 372.
Stiffkey, Naif. iii. 620.
Stillingfleet, Edward, Bishop of Worcester,
ii. 221.
Stilton, Hunts, iii. 89.
Stockbridgf, Hants, ii. 533.
Stockbury, Kent, iii. 247.
VOL. IV.
Stockdale, Rev. Percival, iii. 713.
Stockerston, Leic. iii. 581.
Stock port, Cheslt. i. 348.
Stockton, Wore. iv. 508.
Stocklon upon Tees, Durh. ii. 326.
Stogumbt-r, Somers. iv. 222.
Stoie, Devon, ii. 178.
Stoke, Hereford, ii. 601.
Stoke, Notts, iv. 44.
Stoke, Surrey, iv. 310,355.
Stoke, Bishop's, Glouc. ii. 471.
Stoke Castle, Salop, iv. 177.
Stoke Climslaml, Corn. i. 502.
Stoke Courey, So>ners. iv. 222.
Stoke, East, Notts, iv. 29.
Stoke, Giflbrd's, Glouc. ii. 471.
Stoke Goldington, Bucks, i. 171.
, Poges, Bucks, i. 171.
Stoke House, Line. iii. 449.
Stoke Park, Wilts, iv. 483.
Stokesley, Yorks. iv. 571.
Stonar, Kent, iii. 257.
Stqnar, Oxon. iv. 1 12.
Stone, Kent, iii. 247.
Stone, iia^. iv. 252.
Stone-carron, Cumb. i. 611.
Stoneham, Hants, ii. 533.
Stonehenge, Wilts, iv. 483.
Stonehouse, Devon, ii. 178.
Stoneleigh, Wurw. iv. 417.
Stonetfielil, O.ro». iv. 123.
Stonham, Suffolk, iv.278.
Stonley, Hunts, iii. 89.
Stonyhurst, lane. iii. 332,
Stortford, Herts, iii. 51.
Stoughton, Wore. iv. 518.
Stoughton, Hunts, iii. 89.
Stourbridge, Wore. iv. 514.
Stourhead, Jfi/is. iv. 485.
Stourport, Wore, iv. 514.
Stourton, Wilts, iv. 485.
Stotirton House, Middx. iii. 487.
Stour Minster, Newton Castle, Dorset, ii.
253.
Stow, Glouc. ii. 471.
Stow, Line. iii. 449.
Stow, Staff, iv. 252.
Stow, Suffolk, iv. 315.
Stow, Long, Camb. i. 204.
Stowborough, Dorset, ii. 254.
Stowe, #fcffo. i. 173.
Stowe, North, iii. 662.
Stowell, Glouc. ii. 472.
Stowford, De-con, ii. 179.
Stowmarket, Suffolk, iv. 315.
Stow-qui, Camb. i. 264.
Stradbrook, S«#oM.-, iv. 294.
Strand-on-the-Green, Middx. iii. 431.
Stratford-le-Bow, Middx. iii. 547.
Stratford, Suffolk, iv. 314.
Stratford, JPi'frs. iv. 485.
Stratford, Kenny, Bucks, i. 182.
, Siony, flacA-s. i. 182.
, Water, Bucks, i. 183.
Stratford Say, Hants, ii. 533; iv. 763.
Stratford on Avon, Warw. iv. 397.
Stralton, Beds. i. 39.
Stratton, Corn. i. 502.
Stratton, Norf. iii. 603.
Stratton Park, Hunts, iii. 533.
Streatham Castle, Durh. ii. 328.
Streatley, Berks, i. 94.
Strelley, Notts, iv. 44.
Strenshem, /Fore. iv. 522.
9 N
Stretton, Zf£c. iii.' 581.
Slretton, Hull. iv. 137.
Stretton, Staff, iv. 239.
Stretton Church, Salop, iv. 177.
Stringston, Somers. iv. 223.
Stritloe, //ante. iii. 89.
Stroud, Glouc. ii. 472. -
Stroud, Kent, iii. 248.
Stmmpshaw, Norf. iii. 599.
Strnti, Jedediah, ii. 73.
Stub House, Durh. ii. 329.
Stubbs, George, iii. 311.
Stucley, Thomas, ii. 1 12.
Studland, Dorset, ii. 254.
Studley, Wilts, iv. 486.
Stukeley, Hunts, iii. 89.
Stukeley, William, iii. 6l&.
Sturmere, Essex, ii. 400.
Sturrey, Kent, iii. 248.
Sturt, Charles, ii. 237.
Stidbrook, Line. iii. 449.
Sudbury, Derb. ii. 80.
Sudbury, Suffolk, iv. 276.
Suddington, Leic. iii. 579.
Sudely Caslle, Glouc. ii. 472.
Suffolk, general description of, iv. 9o7.
Sugwas, Hereford, ii. 602.
Sulgrave, North, iii. 657.
Summer Castle, Line. iii. 449.
Summerhill, Kent, iii. 248.
Sunbridge, Kent, iii. 249.
Sunbury, Middx. iii. 548.
Sunderland, See Wearmoutli.
Sundon, Beds. i. 39.
Sunning, Berks, i. 94.
Sunninghill, Berks, i. 94.
Surrey, general description of, iv. 322.
Surrey, Earl of, ii. 317.
Sussex, general description of, iv. 359.
Sutton, Camb. i. 264.
Sutton, Beds.i. 39.
Sutton, Derb. ii. 80.
Sutton, Kent, iii. 249.
Sutlon, Notts, iv. 26.
Sutton, Bishop's, Hants, ii. 533.
Sutton Coldfield. Warm. iv. 410.
Sutton Court, Hereford, ii- 602.
Sutton Court, Middx. iii. 481.
Sutton, King's, North, iii. 669.
Sulton, Thomas, Line. iii. 620.
Sutton Walls, Hereford, ii. 602.
Sttaffhain, Norf. iii. 621.
Swaffnam Bulbeck, Camb. i. 265.
— Prior, Camb. i. 265.
Swallowfield, Berks, i. 95.
Swalwell, Durh. ii. 329.
Swanland, Yorks. iv. 562.
Swansea, Glamorgansh. iv. 714.
Swantcombe, Kent, iii. 249.
Swanton, Kent, iii. 250.
Stvanwich, Dorset, ii. 254.
Swarkeston, Derb. ii. 80.
Swastinoor Hall, Lane. iii. 333.
Swavesey, Camb. \. 266.
Swift, Dean, i. 180.
Swinbrook, Oxon. iv. 74.
Swinburne Castle, Northum. iii. 728.
Swindon, Wilts, iv. 486.
Swine, Yorks. iv. 561.
Swineshead, Line. iii. 450.
Svvineston, Staff, iv. 252.
Swinford, Leic. iii. 581.
Swinford King's, Staff", iv. 253i
Swinfred, //'ore. iv. 515.
788
INDEX.
SwingfieUl, Kent, iii. 250.
Sydenham, Kent, iii. 209.
Sydenham, Thomas, ii. 263.
Sydmanton, Hants, ii. 533.
Sylvester, Joshua, i. 79.
System, Leic. iii. 581.
Tabley, Chesh. \. 352.
Tackley, Oion. iv. 128.
Tacolneston Hall, Norf. iii. 603.
Tadcasler, Yorks. iv. 595.
Tadmuston, Oxon. iv. 68.
Takeley, Esses, ii. 401.
Talgarth, Brecknocksh. iv. 676.
Tal'land, Corn. i. 504.
Tajyllyn, Aferionetlish. iv. 656.
Tamwortli, Staff, iv. 248.
Tamworth, Warw. iv. 41 1.
Tanall, Chesh. i. 354.
Tandbriclge, Surrey, iv. 349.
Tanfield, Yorks. iv. 572.
Taplowe, Bucks, i. 184.
Taresham, Norf. iii. 641.
Tarperley, Chesh. i. 353.
Tarrant Crawford, Dorset, ii. 255.
Tarvin, Chesh. i. 353.
Tatchbury, Hants, ii. 534.
Talenhill," Staff, iv. 255.
Tathwell, XZ'RC. iii. 450.
Tatteri Hall, Cltesh. i. 354.
Tatsenhall, Line. iii. 450.
Tattingston, Suffolk, iv. 315.
Tavislock, Devon, ii. 179; iv. 762.
Taunton, Snmers. iv. 223.
Taw stock, Devon, ii. 180.
Tawton, De-con, ii. 180.
Taylor, Jeremy, i. 244.
Tealby, Line. iii. 450.
Tebworth, Beds. \. 39.
Teddington, Middx. iii. 548.
Teigh, Rutl. iv. 136.
Teigntun, Devon, ii. 181.
Tcigiimouth, Devon, ii. 180.
Temple, Cynj. i. 504.
Temple, family of, i. 173.
Temple Uruern, Line. iii. 451.
Temple Clicking, Herts, iii. 51.
Tempsfoid, Beds. i. 39.
Tcnbury, Wore. iv. 518.
Tenby, Fembroksh. iv. 728.
Tenham, Kent, iii. 250.
Tennison, Thomas, Archbishop of Canter-
bury, i. 246.
Tenterton, Kent, iii. 251.
Terling Place, Essex, ii. 401.
Terring, Sussex, iv. 372
Terringlon, North, Norf. iii. 615.
Tesfont, Wilts, iv. 486.
Teston, Kent, Hi. 251.
Tetbury, Glouc. ii. 473.
Tetney, Line. iii. 451.
Tew, Duns, Oxon. iv. 128.
Tew, Great, Oion. iv 127.
Tewkesbnry, Glouc. ii. 473.
Tey, Essex, ii. 401.
Thame, Oxon. iv. 113.
Thames Dillon, Surrey, iv. 343.
Thanet, Kent, iii. 25J.
Thatcliam, Berks, i. 95.
Thaxted, Essex, ii. 402.
Theale, Berks, i. 95.
Thedingworth, Leic. iii, 582.
Thedweslry, Su/ToM, iv. 316.
Thelwall, Chesh. i. 354.
Thenford Hall, North, iii. 670.
Thetford, Norf. iii. 638.
Thickley, Durh. ii. 329.
Thingoe, Siiffolk, iv. 316.
Thirlewall Castle, Northum. iii. 732.
Thirske, Yorks. iv. 572.
Thistleton, Rutl. iv. 137.
Thompson, William, ii. 328,
Thoresby, Line. iii. 451.
Thoresby, Notts, iv. 44.
Thornbury, Glouc. ii. 477.
Thorndon, Essex, ii. 402.
Thome, Yorks. iv. 595.
Thorngrove, Wore. iv. 516.
Thornham, Zz'nc. iii. 451.
Tbornbaugh, North, iii. 672.
Thornhill, Sir James, ii. 259.
Thornton, Bucks, i. 184.
Thornton Abbey, Line. iii. 451.
Thorpe, Essex, ii. 403.
Thorpe, Norf. iii. 599.
Thorpe, A^orf. iii. 603.
Thorpe, Rutl. iv. 146.
Thorpe Cloud, Derb. ii. 81.
Threapland, Camb. i. 611.
Thredling, Suffolk, iv. 318.
Tliremphall, Essex, ii. 404.
Throcking, Herts, iii. 52.
Throwley, Kent, iii. 258.
Thrumpton Hall, Notts, iv. 45.
Thurcaston, Leic. iii. 581.
Thurgunhy, Line. iii. 452.
Thurland, Z.a«c. iii. 333.
Thurley, Beds. i. 39.
Thurlow, Great, Suffolk, iv. 314.
Thurnham, Kent, iii, 258.
Thurrock, Essex, ii. 404.
Thursby, Cumb. i. 611.
Tibberton, Wore. iv. 516.
Tichborne, Hants, ii. 534.
Tichfield, Hants, ii. 534.
Tickencute, Rutl. iv. 138.
Tickenhall, Wore. iv. 508.
Tickell, Thomas, i. 564.
Tickenham, Somers. iv. 224.
Tickliill, Yorks. iv. 595.
Tickford, Bucks, i. 184.
Tideswell, Derb. ii. 81.
Tidmerton, Wore. iv. 505.
Tilbury, Essex, ii. 404.
Tilbury Foil, Essex, ii. 404.
Tillotson, Dr., iv. 579.
Tilney, Morf. iii. 615.
Tilsworth, .Bc'rfs. i. 39.
Til ley, Hereford, ii. 602.
Tiltey, Essex, ii. 405.
Tindale, Nortkum. iii. 727.
Tingewick, Bucks, i. 185.
Tiutagell, Cor«. i. 505.
TinU-rn Abbey, Mown. iii. 573.
Tinwell, Rutl. iv. 140.
Tiptree, Essex, ii. 405.
Tisbury, Wilts, iv. 486.
Tissingbury, Dfrb. ii. 82.
TUtinghanger, Herts, ill.
Tiverton, Devon, ii. 182.
Tixover, £u*/. iv. 146.
Tixal Hall, Staff, iv. 252,
Toddington, Beds. i. 39.
Toddingtou, Glouc. ii. 478.
Tollard, Wft*. iv. 486.
Tollerton, Notts, iv. 45.
Tolleshunt, Essex, ii. 405.
Tolleston, Notts. IT. 45.
Tollelhorpe, .??«?/.. iv. 140.
Tolley, David, ii. 149.
Tonkin, Thomas, i. 433.
Tooley Park, Leic. iii. 582.
Toppesfield, £ssci, ii. 405.
Tor Abbey, Devon, ii. 188.
Torbay, Devon, ii. 188.
Torksley, Line. iii. 452.
Torpwell, North, iii. 672.
Tong'Aay, Devon, ii. 188.
Torrington, Devon, ii. 189.
Toternboe, Beds. i. 41.
Totham, Essex, ii. 405.
Totmanslow, Staff, iv. 260.
Totness, Devon. \\. 189.
Tottenham, Middx. iii. 549.
Towberry Hill, G/ouc. ii. 478.
Towcester, North, iii. 685.
Towers, Dr. Joseph, ii. 252.
Townley Hall, Lane. iii. 333.
Towyn, Merionethsh. iv. 656.
Townhill, Hants, ii. 534.
Trafford Hall, Lane. iii. 333.
Trawsfynnydd, Merionethsh. iv. 65.
Trecastle, Brecknocksh. iv. 676.
Tregaion, Anglesey, iv. 630.
Tredegar House, Monm. iii. 581.
Tregaron, Cardigansh. iv. 692.
Tregony, Cor«. i. 505.
Trelawney, family of, i. 462.
Trelech, Monm. iii. 573.
Trematon Castle, Corn. i. 506.
Trent Place, Middx. iii. 486.
Treowen, Monm. iii. 576.
Treryn Castle, Corn. i. 507.
Tresham, Sir Thomas, iii. 683.
Trewin House, Hereford, ii. 602,
Trimley, Suffolk, iv. 291.
Trimmer, Mrs., iv. 304.
Tritig, Herts, iii. 53.
Trinity College, Camb. i. 231.
Triplow, Camb. i. 267.
Trevanion, family of, i. 474.
Troston, Siiffolk, iv. 277.
Trottescl lifts Kent, iii. 258.
Trotton, Sussex, iv. 378.
Trowbridee, Wilts, iv. 486.
Trowell, Notts, iv. 37.
Troy House, Monm. iii. 576.
TrumpinRton. Camb. i. 267.
Tiuro, Corn i. 507.
Tubney, Berks, i. 95.
Tucker, Dr. Josiah, iv. 697.
Tudor, Owen. Anglesey, iv. 629.
Tudworth, Witts, iv. 487.
Tudy, Corn. i. 510.
Tunbridge, Kent, iii. 258.
Ttmbridge Wells, Kent, iii. 260.
Tunstall, Kent, iii. 26l.
Tunstead, Norf. iii. 641.
Tunsled, Derb. iii. 82.
Turnham Gr('en, Middx. iii. 481.
Tnrvey, Beds. i. 41.
Turville, Bucks, i. 185.
Tusbury, Norf. iii. 60?.
Tusmore, O^on. iv. 113.
Tuton Tower, Lane. iii. 333.
TatenhiU, Staff, iv. 248.
Tutbury, Staff, iv. 247.
Tuxiord, Notts, iv. 45.
Tweedmouth, Northum. iii. 715,
Twickenham, Middx. iii. 549.
Twinstead, Essex, ii. 405.
Twizell Castle, Northum, iii, 725.
INDEX.
787
Twyford, Berks, i. 96.
Twyford, Hants, ii. 534.
Twyford, Middi. iii. 555.
Tydenham, Glouc. ii. 478.
Tyldesley, Lane. iii. 333.
Tylchiirs't, Berks, i. 95.
Tynemouth, Northum. iii. 705.
Tytherton, Wilts, iv. 487.
Tywardreth, Corn. I. 511.
Valentines, Essex, ii. 405.
Valons, Kent, iii. 263.
Vanbrugh, Sir John, i. 297.
Veep, Corn. i. 512.
Vernon, family of, ii. 80.
Veryan, Corn. i. 412.
Vine, Hants, ii. 534.
Vineyard, Hill, Glouc. ii. 478.
Ucton, Notts, iv. 45.
Uffington, Berks, i. 96.
Uflbrd, North, iii. 673.
Ufford, Suffolk, iv. 319.
Ufton, Berks, i. 96.
Ugbrooke, Devon, ii. 191.
TJIcombe, Kent, iii. 261.
Uley, Glouc. ii. 478.
Ulventon, Lane. iii. 333.
Untliank Hall, Northum. iii. 732.
Union, Sir Henry, i. 73.
Upham, Hants, ii. 534.
Uphaven, Wilts, iv. 488.
Upminster, Essex, ii. 405.
Uppmghani. Rutl. iv. 142.
Upton, Bucks, i. 185.
Upton, Notts, iv.42.
Upton Hall, North, iii. 674.
Upton Sciulamore, Wilts, iv. 489.
Upwall, Camb. i. 268.
Urswick, Lane. iii. 334.
Usk, Monm. iii. 577.
Utkinton, Chesh. i. 354.
Uttoxeter, Staff, iv. 262.
Uxbridge, Middx. iii. 555.
Waddesdon, Bucks, i. 186.
Wadebridge, Corn. i. 512.
Wainfieet, Lane. iii. 452.
Wake, Sir Isaac, iii. 685.
Wake, William, Archbishop of Canter-
bury, ii. 212.
, Edward, ii. 212.
Wakefield, Yorks. iv. 596.
Wakefield L^dge, North, iii. 663.
Wai beck, N'>tts. iv. 45.
Walberswi<:k, Suffolk, iv. 281.
Walden, Essex, ii. 405.
Walden, Herts, iii. 54.
Waldershare, Kent, iii. 261.
Wales, genenil description of, iv. 613.
Walham Green, Middx iii. 48S.
Walhampton, Hunts, ii. 535.
Walkem, //frf* iii. 54.
Walker, John, iii. 28.
Walker, Rev. George, Northum. iii. 725.
Wall, Staff, iv. 250.
Wall Hilts, Hereford, ii. 602.
Wall Town, Northum. iii. 733.
Wallazey, Cltetli. i. 354.
Walkot Park, Salop, iv. 177.
Waller, Edmund, i. 139.
Wallinglord, Berks, i. 96.
Wallingford, Richard de, iii. 13.
Wallington, Surrey, iv. 350.
i Wallington Castle, Northum. iii. 715.
; Wallis, Samuel, Captain, i. 467.
| Wallsend, Northum. iii. 733.
; W aimer, Kent, iii. 261.
i Walney, Lane. iii. 334.
i Walpole, Norf. iii. 615.
Walpole, Horace, ii. 257.
Walsall, Staff, iv. 249.
Walsham, North, Norf. iii. 641.
Walsingham, New, Norf. iii. 619.
Walsoken, Norf. iii. 615.
Waltham, Essex, ii. 407.
Walthani, Hants, ii. 535.
Waltham, Leic. iii. 582.
Waltham, Line. iii. 452.
Waltham Cross, Herts, iii. 54.
Waltham, Great, Essex, ii. 409.
Waltham Laurence, Berks, i. 98.
Walthamstow, Essex, ii. 409.
Walton, Glouc. ii. 478.
Walton, Lane. iii. 334.
Walton, Suffolk, iv. 291.
Walton in Gordano, Somers. iv. 224.
Walton on Thames, Surrey, iv. 340.
Walworth, Durk ii. 330.
Wanborough, Wilts, iv. 488.
Wandsford, Hunts, iii. 89.
Wandsworth, Surrey, iv. 337.
Wangford, S'ljfolk, iv. 318.
VVanlip, Li-ic. iii. 582.
Wansdike, Wilts, iv. 4S8.
Wanstead, Essex, ii. 409.
Wantage, Berks, i. 99.
Warblington, Hants, ii. 535.
Warboys, Hunts, iii. 90.
Warbstow, Corn. i. 512.
Warcop, Westm. iv. 435.
Ward, Dr., iii. 32.
Warden, Beds. i. 41.
Wardli-y, ttutl.iv. 145.
Wardoiir Castle, Wifts. iv. 488.
Ware, Herts, iii. 55.
Warehani, Dorset, ii. 255.
Wari'ham, Norf. iii. 620.
Waresley, //u«ta. iii. 92.
Warlield, llcrks. i. 101.
Wargrave, Berks, i. 101.
Wariiam, William, Archbishop of Can«
terburv, ii. 516.
Waike, Northum. iii. 727.
Warklon, North, iii. 6C8.
Warkworth, North, iii. 670.
Warkworth, Northum. iii. 709.
Warleigh, £>e»wi. ii. 192.
Warmington, Warm. iv. 412.
Wai-minster, /fz'fe iv. 4-i8.
Warmsley, Hereford ii. 603.
Warneil Hall, Cumb. i. 611.
Warnford, Hants ii. 535.
Warrington, /a«c. iii. 334.
Warringtnn, Earl of, i. 295.
Warton, Dr. J., and the Rev. T., ii. 501.
Warwic-k, Cumb. i. 512.
Warwick, Wnna. iv. 4l3.
Warwickshire, general description of,
iv. 391.
Watchcross, Cumb.l 612.
Watchet, Somers. iv. 2J4.
Waterbe-.ich, Camb. i. 268.
Water Millock, Cumb. i 612.
Water Perry, Oxon. iv. 71.
Watford, Herts, in. 56.
Watford, North. ,ii. 664.
Wellington, Own. iv. 119.
Watringbtiry, Kent, iii. 262.
Wafon, Sir Brook, ii. 166.
Watlisham, Suffolk, iv. 292.
Walton, Herts, iii. 58.
Walton, Norf. iii. 642.
Wallon, Yorks. iv. 562.
Watts, Dr Isaar, ii. 532.
Wavcndon, Bucks, i. 186.
Waylaml, NorJ. ni. 642.
Weald Hall, Essex, ii 411.
Weardale, Durh ii. 330.
WearmonlhandSundcrland, Durh. ii. 330.
Wcdnesbury, &a#'. iv. 249.
Wednesfield, Staff, iv. 249.
Wedon Beck, North, iii. 662.
Wet-ford, Staff', iv. 249.
Week, C-.TH. i 512.
Weeting, Norf. iii. 622.
Welford, Aror«/i. iii. 664.
WellingboroiiKh, Noith. iii. 665.
Wellington, Salop, iv. 117.
Wellington, Somers. iv. 225.
Wells, Line. iii. 453.
Wells, Norf. iii. 621.
Wells, Somers. iv. 225.
Welnetlum, Suffolk, iv. 316.
Welwyn, Herts, iii. 58.
Wem, SWop, iv. 177.
Wemblv, Middr. iii. 500.
Wendover, Bucks, ii. 186.
Weiulron, Corn. i. 513.
Wenington, Devon, ii. 192.
Wenistead, Yorfa. iv. 562.
Wenlock, Salop, iv. 177.
Wenlock, de Sir John, i. 32.
Wenn, Corn i. 513.
Wentloog, Monm. iii. 580.
Went Wood Forest, Monm. iii. 579.
Weobley, Hereford, ii.603.
Weonard's, Si., Hereford, ii. 603.
Werk, Northum. iii. 713.
Westbury, Glouc. ii. 478.
Westbury, Wilts, iv. 489.
West End, Middle, iii. 492.
Westerham, Kent, iii. 262.
Westerhanei'r, Kent, iii. 262.
Westfield, Sussex, iv. 380.
WesthaU, ,S«//oM-, iv. 281.
Weslmill, Herts, iii. 58.
W eitmorlaml , general description of, i v. 424.
Westoe, Durh. ii. 335.
We^ton, Cltcsh. i. 336.
Weslon, Wurw. iv. 411.
Weston, Gt'iuc. ii. 479.
Wcston Brit, If'ill.i. iv. 490.
Weston Favel, North, iii. 685.
Wrston, North, Oion. iv. 114.
Westoning, Beds. i. 41.
Westover, /i/e of W. iv. 754.
Westhorp Hall, Suffolk, iv. 294.
Westwell, Kent, iii. 263.
i VVestwood, Witts, iv. 490.
Wetheral, Ctonfr. i. 612.
Wetherby, Yorks. iv. 596.
Wetherden Hall, Suffolk, iv. 315.
Wetlon, Staff, iv. 2(i3.
Wewing, Herts, iii. 51.
Weybridge, Surrey, iv. 340.
Wcy Hill, //aH(i. ii. 536.
Weymouth anil Melcombe Regis, Dorset.
ii. 257.
Whaddon, BwcA-s. i. 187.
Whalebone. Essex, ii. 41 i.
Whalley, Line. iii. 335.
788
INDEX.
Whalley, Rev. Peter, iii. 665.
Whalton, Northum. iii. 708.
Whaplode, Line. iii. 453.
Wharton, Duke of, i. 188.
Whallington Park, Oion. iv. T12.
Wheatley, Oxon. iv. 70.
Whcelock, Chesh. i. 356.
Wheler, Rev. Maurice, ii. 263.
Whersted Lodge, Suffolk, iv. 315.
Wlierwell, Hunts, ii. 536.
Whethamstead, Herts, iii. 58.
Whetton, Derb. ii. 83.
Whissendine, fiittl. iv. 136.
Whiston, North, iii. 687.
Whiston, William, iii. 576.
Whitaker, John, i. 409.
Wliitaker, William, iii. 299.
Whitbread, family of, i. 38.
Whitburn, Durh. ii. 335.
Whiiby, Yorks. iv. 572.
Whitchester, Northum. iii. 709.
Whitchurch, Hants, ii. 536.
Whitchurch, Oxon. iv. 78.
Whitchurch, Salop, iv. 178.
White, Sir Thomas, i. 89.
White Castle, A'fomn. iii. 576.
White Cross, Hereford, ii. 603.
White Ladies, Salop, iv. 178.
White Place, Berks, i. 104.
Whitchurch, Bucks, i. 188.
Wliiteforcl, Flint sh. iv. 652.
Whitegate, Chesh. i. 355.
Whitehaven, Cumb. i. 612.
Whilehead, Paul, i. 193.
White Horse Vale, Berks, i. 102.
White Knights Berks, i. 104.
Whitefield Hall, Northum. iii. 733.
Whitgift, Dr. J., iii. 617.
Whilley, Essef, ii. 41 1.
Whilley, Northum. iii. 707.
Whitley Castle, Cumb. i. 612.
Whitley Hall. Warm. iv. 405.
Whitstable, Kent, iii. 263.
Whitstone, Corn. i. 513.
Whittingham, Northum. iii. 711.
Whittingham, Dr., i. 321.
Whillington, Derb. ii. 83.
Whittington Castle, Salop, iv. 165.
Whitton, Afiddx. iii. 554.
Whittlebury, North, iii. 663.
Whittletea, Camb. i. 268.
Whittlesford, Camb. i. 269.
Whittle-le-Woods, Lane. iii. 336.
Whitwell, Durh ii. 335.
Whitwell, fiutl. iv. 138.
Whyddon Park, Devon, ii. 192.
Wichnor, Staff, iv. 249.
Wicken, Camb. i. 269.
Wickham, Glow. ii. 479.
Wickliam, Hants, ii. 536.
Wickham, Kent, iii. 263.
Wickham, Bishop's, Essex, ii. 411.
Wickham Market, Suffolk, iv. 319.
Wickwar, Glouc. ii. 479.
Widdial, Herts, iii. 58.
Widdrington CVtle, Northum. iii. 716.
WUlworthy, Devon, ii. 192.
Wigan, Lane. iii. 336.
Wiggiiulton, Oxon. iv. 69.
Wight, Hants, ii. 536.
Wight, Isle of, iv. 740.
AVigmore, Hereford, ii. 603.
Wigston, Leic. iii. 582.
Wigton, Cumb. i. 616.
Wikeham, Yorkf. i». 574.
Wilberfoss, Yorks. iv. 562.
Wilberton, Camb. i. 270.
Wilbury Hill, Hertt. iii. 59.
Wilcombe, Glouc. ii. 479.
Wilcot, Wilts, iv. 490.
Wilford, Notts, iv. 47.
Wilford, Suffolk, iv. 319.
Wilkins, Dr. J., iii. 662.
Willersley, Glouc. ii. 479.
Wiltenley Castle, Derb. ii. 84.
Williams, Dr. Moses, iv. 682.
Williams, Thomas, iv. 629.
Williamson, Sir Hebworth, ii. 333.
Williamstrip, Gloue. ii. 479.
Willingshall, Essex, ii. 411.
Willingham, Camb. i. 270.
Willingham, Line. iii. 453.
Willington, Beds. i. 42.
Willis, Browne, ii. 213.
Willis, Dr., iii. 638.
Williloti, Somers. iv. 227.
Wilmslow, Chesh. i. 357.
Willoughby, Notts, iv. 47.
Willoughby, Sir Hugh, ii. 77.
Willowbridge, Staff, iv. 253.
Willjbrook, North, iii. 686.
Wilsdon, Middi. iii. 556.
Wilsford, Wilts, iv. 492.
Wilson, Mary, i. 606.
Wilson, Thomas, Bishop of Sodor and
Man, i. 300.
Wilton Castle, Hereford, ii. 604.
Wilton, Hunts, iii. 92.
Wilton, Wilts, iv. 490.
Wiltshire, general description of, iv. 445.
Wily, Wilts, iv. 492.
Wimbledon, Surrey, iv. 337.
Wimborne Minster, Dorset, ii. 259.
Wimborne, St. Giles, Dorset, ii. 262.
Wimington, Beds. i. 42.
Wimpole, Camb. i. 270.
Wincannton, Somers. iv. 227.
Winchbiirne, Notts, iv. 47.
Winchcombe, Glouc. ii. 479j
Winchcombe, John, i. 81.
Winchelsea, Sussex, iv. 381.
Winchendon, Upper, Bucks, i. 188.
Winchester, Hants, ii. 530.
•Wintkburne, Notts, iv. 42.
Windermere, Lane. iii. 337.
Windlestone, Durh. ii. 336.
Windsor Castle, Berks, i. 107, 121.
Windsor, New, Berks, i. 105.
Windsor, Old, Berks. \. 104.
Winfarthing, Norf. iii. 604.
Winford Eagle, Dorset, ii. 263.
Winforton, Hereford, ii. 604.
Wing, Bucks, i. 188.
Wing, Rtitl. iv. 143.
Wingerworth, Derb. ii. 85.
Wingfield, Derb. ii. 85.
Wingfield, Suffolk, iv. 294.
Wingham, Kent, iii. 264.
Winifrid, Archbishop of Mentz, ii. 119.
Winkelbnrg Camp, Wilis. iv. 492.
Winkfield, Berks, i. 123.
Winlaton, Durh. ii. 336.
Wilmington, Salop, iv. 178.
Winnow, Corn. i. 513.
Winslow, Bucks, i. 189.
Winstanley, Mr. Henry, ii. 123, 391.
Winster, Derb. ii. 86.
Winston, Durh. ii. 336.
Winlerbourne Abbas, Dorset, ii. 263.
Herringston, Dorset, ii. 263.
Winterbourne, Earls, Wilts, iv. 492.
Winterslow, Wilts, iv. 498.
Winterton, Line. iii. 453.
Winterton, Narf. iii. 609.
Wimhorpe Hall, NoUg. iv. 26.
Winwick, Lane. iii. 337.
Winwood, Sir Ralph, iii. 670. /
Winyard Hall, Durh. ii. 337.
WirksHorth, Derb. ii. 86.
Wisbech, Camb. i. 273.
Wiston, Pembroksh, iv. 730.
Wiston, Sussex, iv. 373.
Wistowe, Leic. iii. 582.
Witham, Berks, i. 123.
Witham, Essex, ii. 41 1.
Withicombe, Devon., ii. 192.
Withiel, Corn. i. 513.
Withmgton, Glouc. ii. 480.
Withyham, Sussex, iv. 387.
Witnesham, Suffolk, iv. 291.
Witney, Oxon'. iv. 64.
Wittenham, Berks, i. 124.
Witton, Lane. iii. 285.
Wilton Castle, Durh. ii. 337.
Wiveliscombe, Somers. iv. 227.
Wivenhoe, £'MSJ, ii. 412.
Wiverton Hall, Notts, iv. 47.
Wix, Essi-t, ii. 412.
Woburn, /fed*, i. 42.
Wokey, Somers. iv. 228.
Woking, Surrey, iv. 351, 355.
Wokingiiam, Berks, i. 124.
Wold Newton, Yorks. iv. 562.
Wolfe, General, iii. 263.
Wolford Lodge, Devon, ii. 192.
Wollaton, Notts, iv. 37.
Wollaston, William, iv. 253.
Wolseley, Cardinal, iv. 303.
Wolsingham, Durh. ii. 337.
Wellington, Northum. iii. 709.
Wolston, Warm. iv. 419.
Wollerton, Norf. iii. 60S.
Wolverhamplon, Staff, iv. 255.
Wolverley, Wore. iv. 515.
Wolverstone Hall, Suffolk, iv. 315,
Wolveton House, Dorset^ ii. 263.
Wonastow Court, Afonm. iii. 370,
Wonersh, Surrey, iv. 332.
Woobnrn, Bucks, i. 189.
Wood, Jasper i. 412.
Woodbridge, Suffolk, iv. 307.
Woodchetter, Glouc. ii. 480.
Woodchurch, Chesh. i. 357.
Woodfold, Lans. iii. 284.
Wooford, Essex, ii. 4J2.
Woodford, North, iii. 657.
Woodford, Middle, Wilts, iv. 474.
Woodlands, Dorset, ii. 264.
Woodlands Durh. ii. 337.
Woodlands, Kent, iii. 189.
Woodmansterne, Surrey, iv. 351.
Woodstock, Oxon. iv. 115.
Wooler, Northum. iii. 712.
Woolhampton, Berks, i. 125.
Woolett, William, iii. 215.
Woolpit, Suffolk, iv. 316.
Woolsthorpe, Line. iii. 453.
Woolwich, Kent, iii. 264.
Wootop, .Beds. i. 51.
Wooton, Kent, iii. 266.
Wooton, Oxon. iv. 115.
Wootten-W:«w«n, Warw, iv. 396.
INDEX.
78D
Worcestershire, general description of, iv.
49fi.
Worcester, Wore. iv. 522.
Workington, Climb. \. 616.
Hall, Cumb. i. 617.
Worksop, Notts, iv-. 48.
Wellington Hall, Sufolk, iv. 319.
Wonnenhall, Kucki. i, 189.
Wormhill, Derb. ii. 87.
Wonnleigton, Warw. iv. 412.
Wormley, Herts iii. 59.
WormsU-y, Oion. i". 79.
Worsboronah, Yorks. iv. 597.
Worstead, N:»f. iii. 641.
Worlliing, Sussex, iv. 373.
Wotlon, Bucks i. 189.
Wootton, Staff, iv. 262.
W cotton Bassi-t, Wilts, iv. 492.
Wootton House, Surrey, iv. 356.
Wootlon, Dr. William, i. 164.
Wooton, Sir Henry, i. 151 ; in. 120.
Wooton-under Edg< , Glouc. ii. 483.
Wrandyke, Rutl. iv. 145.
Wraxball, North, Wilts, iv. 475.
Wrayby, Line. iii. 453.
Wrekin, Salop, iv. 178.
Wrest Park, Beds. i. 51.
Wrexham, Denbiglish. iv. 644.
Wrightington Hall, Lane. iii. 337.
Wrington, Somers. iv. 228.
Writtle, £wear, ii. 413.
Wrotham, Kent, HI 266.
Wrotham Park, Middi. iii. 539.
Wroxall, IVartu. w. 397.
Wroxeter, Salop, iv. 178.
Wroxton, OJTOM. iv. 68.
Wybimbury, Chesh. i. 357.
Wyckham, //ante, ii. 536.
Wycombe Abbey, Bucks, i. 191.
, High, Bucks, i. 19;).
, West, Bucks, i. 191.
Wye, Kent, iii. 267.
Wyke Regis Dorset, ii. 264.
Wjllien, Bucks, i. 193.
Wyinersley, North, iii. 686.
Wymondham, Norf. iii. 613.
Wyuiondley, Herts, iii. 59.
Wynch Brid.' e, Durli. ii. 338.
Wyndham, William, Norf. iii. 607.
Wyngall, Line. iii. 453.
Wyrardisbury, Bucks, i. 193.
Yalding, A'en*. iii. 268.
Yarborough, Line. iii. '453.
Yanlley, fferti. iii. 59.
Yarni, Yorks. iv. 547. x
Yarmouth, Isle of Wight, iv. 754.
Yarmouth, Norf. iii. 610.
Yariiton, Gion iv. 123.
Yaltemlon; Bfr/tj. i. 125,
Ya.xley, Hunts, in. 92.
Yealiiipton, Devon, ii. 193. N
Yeavelcy, /)e;-6. ii. 87.
Yelilhani, Essei, ii. 413.
Yelveston, Sir Henry, ii. 665.
Yeo Vale, Devon, ii. 193.
Yeovil, Sonifrs. iv. 2'28.
Yeovilton, Somers. iv. 228.
Yorkshire, general description of, iv. 533.
, East Riding of, iv. 549.
, North Riding, of, iv. 563.
, West Riding of, iv. 574.
York, Yorks. iv. 597.
Young, Edward, ii. 535.
Yoxford, Suffolk, iv. 281.
Yspytly Jevan, Denbighth, iv, 645.
Ystradfelte, Brcc/cnockslt. iv. 676.
Ystradgynlais, Brecknocki/t. iv. 677.
Zcnnor, Corn. \. 513.
VOL. iv.
90
ARRANGEMENT OF THE PLATES.
Plate.
n
18
34
33
18
19
2
18
13
Vignetle
7
1
32
25
25
26
26
26
26
28
20
27
28
28
28
Vignetle
42
37
4
38
27
20
27
27
16
36
Vignette
21
22
46
40
12
15
25
S9
29
19
Frontispiece to Face Vignette Title.
Map of England and Wales to face page I oflntroduclion.
Map of Bedfordshire ... ... ...
Bedford
Woburn Abbey ... ... ... ...
Map of Berkshire ...
Bray
Maidenhead ...
Bear Place
Windsor Castle
Windsor ... ... ... ;»
Her late Majesty's Lodge at Frogmore
Map of Buckinghamshire ... •
Burnham Abbey ... ... •
Burnham Abbey ... ... •
Eton College ... ... -•
Great Marlow ... ... .
Stoke Church ... ... .
Map of Cambridgeshire ... •,
Pembroke Hall
King's College Chapel ... - _<
Map of Cheshire : .".
Stockport ... ... ... *<
Map of Cornwall ... ... .-» .
St. Michael's Mount ... " <
Truro Church ... ... .
Map of Cumberland
Carlisle
Map of Derbyshire
Mattock Bridge ...
Map of Devonshire
Exeter
Map of Dorsetshire
Portland
Map of Durham
Durham Cathedral
Gateshead ...
Sunderland Bridge
Map of Essex
Barking ... ... ...
Fire Bell Gate
Chingford Church ...
Mark's Hall
Waltham Abbey Church
Interior of Waltham Abbey' Church
Wanstead House
Map of Gloucester
Gloucester ... ...
Map of Hampshire
Newport ... ... ...
Carisbrook Castle ... ...
Map of Herefordshire
Hereford
Map of Hertfordshire ...
St. Alban's Abbey ... ...
Interior of St. Alban's Abbey
St. Michael's Church
Map of Huntingdonshire
Buckden Palace ... ...
Map of Kent
Dover Castle
Remains of Eltham Palace
Interior of Eltham Palace ...
Hall of Greenwich Hospital
London from Greenwich Park
Ramsgate
Map of Lancashire
Lancaster ... ...
Map of Leicestershire
Donnington Park ...
Map of Lincolnshire ...
Grimsthorpe Castle ...
Described.
Facing.
••!•••
Vol. I. pa. 5
Vol. . pa. 5
I. 12
42
I. 42
42
••••• •
I. 56
56
••••••
I. 68
68
••*•••
I. 79
. 79
•••*••
IV. 762
. 43
• * 1. . .
I. 107
II . 42*
• ••>•
I. 121
. 121
• »*.. •
I. 123
. 42
I. 129
. 129
••••1 •
"t. 145
.' 145
MM
I. 145
. Title
*•••••
I. 150
. 150
......
I. 161
. 161
• •• ••
I. 172
. 172
I- 199
. 199
I. 216
I. 219
... •
I. 219
I. 219
I- 285
I. 285
T. 348
I. 470
t *•««
I. 368
I. 368
I. 470
I. 470
t . i • •
I. 508
I. 470
*»...
I. 523
I. 523
• ••••
I. 5fi8
I. 470
• ••••
If. 3
II. 3
. II. 69
II. 290
• ••it
II. 94
II. 94
II. 126
• II. 126
• ••••
II. 201
11. 201
• ••••
II. 240
II. 453
• ••••
If. 270
II. 270
*****
II. 290
- II. 290
• •••*
11. 303
II. 290
• ••**
II. 331
If. 290
• *••
II. 342
II. 342
• •»»
II. 355
II. 355
• •t*
II. 357
11. Title
• •••
II- 365
II. 365
• ••«
II. 393
II. 393
• *••
II. 407
II. 407
....
II. 408
II. 410
II. Frontispiece-
II- 410
....
II. 422
II. 422
• •*>
II. 453
II. 453
• •••
II. 489
II. 489
• >••
IV. 744
II. 126
• *li
IV. 747
II. 453
• •*.
11. 561
II. 561
• •*•
II. 576
II. 453
• i . .
III. 3
III. 3
III. 15
HI. 15
....
III. 16
III. 16
• •••
III. 20
III. Title
....
III. 64
III. 64
II. i
III. 69
II. 410
....
III. 94
Iir. 94
• •••
III. 171
IV. 197
....
III. 180
III. 180
• •*•
III. 180
III. Frontispiece
• ••<
III. 193
III. 193
• •••
III. 195
III. 195
•*..* .
III. 255
I. 219
III. 274
III. 274
III. 301
III. 301
. ....
III. 343
III. 343
••••**
III- 359
III. 301
••*...
III. 385
III. 385
III. 417
III. 429
Arrangement of the Plates continued.
Plate.
19
19
14
43
25
5
\1
41
35
3
11
6
10
49
9
47
99
29
24
24
21
23
23
23
30
30
22
32
23
30
44
45
30
39
50
Vignette
24
22
48
48
24
43
48
21
20
31
31
31
31
20
Lincoln Cathedral ...
St.nniford ... ...
Map of Middlesex
Uhelsea Hospital ...
Hampstead ...
tlighgate Archway ...
Canonbury House
Sion House ...
London ... .
Westminster ...
St. Paul's Cathedral
Charier House
Admiralty and Horse Guards
Royal Exchange
Kentish Town and Highgate
Stepney Church
Bridge at Stratford le Bow
Map of Monmouthshire •>
Tintern Abbey
Map of Norfolk
Cromer
Map of Northamptonshire
Peterborough Cathedral
Map of Northumberland
Alnwick Castle
Map of Nottinghamshire
Nottingham Castle
Map of Oxfordshire
Oxford
Oxford Theatre
Blenheim
Map of Rutlandshire
Burley House ...
Map of Shropshire
Hales Owen ...
Map of Somersetshire
Bath Bridge
Crescent, Bath ..
Map of Staffordshire
Lichfield Cathedral
Map of Suffolk
Mettingham Castle
Map of Surrey ...
Lambeth Palace
Interior of the Hall of Lambeth Palace
Kew Palace ' ...
Richmond Hill ___._
St. Saviour s Church
Bishop Andrews's Tomb
Map of Sussex
Pavillion, Brighton
Map of Warwickshire
Warwick Castle
Map of Westmorland
Appleby ...
Map of Wiltshire ...
Chippenham Church
Map of Worcestershire
Worcester Cathedral
Map of the East Riding of Yorkshire ,
Bridlingtun Priory ......
Map of the North Riding of Yorkshire
Castle Howard
Map of the West Riding of Yorkshire
Wentworth Castle
M-w of North Wales
Snowdon
Barmouth
Map of South Wales
Ci! Hepste Waterfall
Swansea ... ..
Pembroke
...
...
"1
..4
Described:
Facing.
III. 428
III. 445
III. 458
III. 473
III. 491
lit 503
HI. 505
III. 50S
111. 512
III. 428
III. 428
III. 458
III. 478
III. 491
I. 219
HI. 505
III. 508
III. 512
III. 518
III. 518 '
III. 520
III. 520
......
••••*•
III. 5«6
III. 531
III. 533
III. 542
III. 546
III. 526
HI. 531
HI. 533
HI. 542
III. 546
HI. 548
III. 500
III. 548
III. 560
••••• •
III. 573
III. 583
III. 606
III. 301
III. 583
III. 301
••••• •
III. 691
III. 700
III. 645
III. 681
IV. 3
III. 691
IV. 523
III. 645
IV. 523
IV. 3
•••**•
•••*••
IV. 33
IV. 54
IV. 79
IV. 104
IV. 118
IV. 131
IV. 135
IV. 148
IV. 160
IV. 182
II. 410
IV. 54
IV. 79
IV. 79
IV. 79
IV. 131
IV. 160
IV. 148
IV. 160
IV. 182
IV. 197
IV. 197
IV. «32
IV. 197
IV. 197
IV. 332
IV 239
IV. 267
IV. 319
IV. 322
IV. 334
IV. 335
IV. 343
IV. 345
IV. 347
IV. 347
IV- 359
IV. 382
. IV. 391
IV. 415
IV. 424
IV. 431
IV. 445
IV. 458
IV. 79
IV. 26T
IV. 160
IV. 322
IV. Frontispiece
IV. 335
IV- 160
IV. 345
IV. 347
IV. Tille
IV. 359
IV. 523
IV. 391
IV. 197
IV. 424
IV. 523
IV. 445
IV. 523
IV. 496
IV. 523
IV. 549
IV. 550
IV. 496
IV. 523
IV. 549
IV. 523
• « •• •
IV. 563
IV. 563
IV. 574
IV. 575
IV. 625
IV. 631
IV. 563
IV. 523
IV. 574
n. 410
IV. 625
JI. 126
IV. 634
IV. 654
IV. 634
IV. 634
• *•** •
IV. 665
IV. 677
IV. 714
v IV. 727
IV. 665
IV. 634
IV. 634
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