Glass.
NEW GUIDE FOR EMIGRANTS
WEST
ft
CONTAINING SKETCHES OF
OHIO, INDIANA, ILLINOIS, MISSOURI, MICHIGAN, WITH
fHE TERRITORIES OF WISCONSIN AND ARKAN-
SAS, AND THE ADJACENT PARTS.
By J. M. PECK, A. M.
OF ROCK SPRING, ILL.
BOSTON:
GOULD, KENDALL & LINCOLN.
FOR SALE BY THE BOOKSELLERS IN THE UNITED STATES.
1836.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1836,
By Gould, Kendall, & Lincoln,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts.
INDEX
CHAP. I.
General View of the Valley of the Missis-
sippi.
Extent — Subdivisions — Population — Physical Features
— Animal, Vegetable and Mineral Productions —
History — Prospective Increase of Population, 11
CHAP. n.
General View, &c.. Continued.
Productions, 32
CHAP. III.
Climate.
■ omparative View of the Climate with the Atlantic
States — Diseases — Means of Preserving Health, ... 37
CHAP. IV.
Character, Manners and Pursuits of the
People.
Cotton and Sugar Planters — Farmers — Population of
IV INDEX.
the large Towns and Cities — Frontier Class — Hunt-
ers and Trappers — Boatmen, 102
CHAP. V.
Public Lands.
System of Surveys — Meridian and Base Lines —
Townships — Diagram of a Township surveyed into
Sections — Land Districts and Offices — Preemption
Rights — ^Military and Bounty Lands — Taxes —
Valuable Tracts of Country unsettled, 130
CHAP. VL
Aborigines.
Conjecture respecting their former Numbers and Con-
dition— Present Number and State — Indian Terri-
tory appropriated as their Permanent Residence —
Plan and Operations of the U. S. Government —
Missionary Efforts and Stations — Monuments and
Antiquities, 144
CHAP. vn.
Western Pennsylvania.
Face of the Country — Soil, Agriculture and Internal
Improvements — Chief Towns — Pittsburg — Coal —
Sulphur and Hot Springs — Wheeling, 16S
CHAP. vni.
Michigan.
Extent — Situation — Boundaries — Face of the Coun-
try— Rivers — Lakes, &c. — Soil and Productions — ■
INDEX. V
Subdivisions — Counties — Towns — Detroit — Educa-
tion— Internal Improvements projected — Boundary
Dispute — Outline of the Constitution, 179
CHAP. IX.
Ohio.
Boundaries — Divisions — Face of the Country — Soil
and Prod actions — Animal? — Minerals — Financial
Statistics — Canal Fund — Expenditures — Land Tax-
es— School Fund — Statistics — Canal Revenues —
Population at different Periods — Internal Improve-
ments— Manufactures — Cities and Towns — Cincin-
nati— Columbus — Education — Form of Government
—History, 193
CHAP. X.
Indiana.
Boundaries and Extent — Counties — Population — Face
of the Country, &c. — Sketch of each County —
Form of Government — Finances — Internal Improve-
ments— Manufactures — Education — History — Gen-
eral Remarks, 222
CHAP. XI.
Illinois.
Boundaries and Extent — Face of the Country and
Qualities of Soil — Inundated Land — River Bottoms,
or Alluvion — Prairies — Barrens — Forest, or timber-
ed Land — Knobs, Bluffs, Ravines and Sink Holes-
Rivers, &c. — Productions — Minerals, — Lead, Coal,
VI INDEX.
Salt, &c. — Vegetables — Animals — Manufactures —
Civil Divisions — Tabular View of the Counties —
Sketches of each County — Towns — Alton — Pro-
jected Improvements — Education — Government —
General Remarks, 251
CHAP. XII.
Missouri.
Extent and Boundaries — Civil Divisions — Population
— Surface, Soil and Productions — Towns — St.
Louis, 315
CHAP. XIIL
Arkansas and Territorial Districts.
Arkansas. — Situation and Extent — Civil Divisions
— Rivers — Face of the Country — Soil — Water —
Productions — Climate — Minerals — State of Society.
Wisconsin. Boundaries and Extent — Rivers —
Soil — Productions — Towns, &c 323
CHAP. XIV.
Literary and Religious Institutions for
THE West.
Colleges — Statistical Sketch of each Religious Denom-
ination— Roman Catholics — Field for Effort, and
Progress made — Theological Institutions — Deaf and
Dumb Asylums — Medical Institutions — Law Schools
— Benevolent and Religious Societies — Periodical
Press, 334
INDEX. Vll
CHAP. XV.
Suggestions to Emigrants.
Modes of Travel — Canal, Steamboat and Stage Routes
— ^Other Modes of Travel — Expenses — ^Roads, Dis-
tances, &c. 364
INTRODUCTION.
Much has been published ah-eady about the West, —
the Great West, — the Valley of the Mississippi.
— But no portion of this immense and interesting region,
is so much the subject of inquiry, and so particularly ex- y
cites the attention of the emigrant, as the States of Ohio,
Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, and Michigan, with the adjacent
territorial regions.
All these States have come into existence as such, with
the exception of Ohio, within the last twenty years; and
much of the territory, now adorned by the hand of civil-
ization, and spread over with an enterprising, industrious /
and intelligent people, — the field of public improvements
in Canals and Railways, — of Colleges, Churches, and other
institutions, was the hunting ground of the aborigines, and
the scene of border warfare. These States have been un-
paralleled in their growth, both hi the increase of population
and property, and in the advance of intellectual and moral
improvement. Such an extent of forest was never before
cleared, — such a vast field of prairie was never before
subdued and cultivated by the hand of man, in the same
short period of time. Cities, and towns, and villages, and
counties, and States never before rushed into existence,
and made such giant strides, as upon this field.
" Who hath heard mch a thing? Who hath seen such
• things? Shall the earth be made to bring forth in one
day? or shall a nation be born at once?" Isaiah, lxvt. 8.
The rapid increase of population will be exhibited in a
tabular form in the following pages, and other parts show-
1
VI INTRODUCTION.
ing that the general improvement of the country, and the
development of its physical, intellectual and moral resources
have kept pace with the extension of settlements. And
such are its admirable facilities for commerce by its numer-
ous navigable rivers, and its lines of canals, some of w^hich
are finished, and many others commenced or projected, —
such the richness of its soil, and the variety of its produc-
tions,— such the genial nature of its climate, — the enterprise
of its population, — and the influence it must soon wield in
directing the destinies of the whole United States, as to
render the great West an object of the deepest interest
to the American patriot. To the philanthropist and chris-
tian, the character and manners, — the institutipns, literature
and religion of so wide a portion of our cojintry, whose
mighty energies are soon to exert a controlling influence
over the character of the whole nation, and in some meas-
ure, of the world, are not less matters of momentous
concern.
" The West is a young empire of mind, and power, and
wealth, and free institutions, rushing up to a giant man-
hood, with a rapidity and power never before witnessed
below the sun. And if she carries with her the elements
of her preservation, the experhnent will be glorious, — the
joy of the nation, — the joy of the whole earth, as she rises
in the majesty of her intelligence and benevolence, and
enterprise, for the emancipation of the world." — Beecher.
Amongst the causes that have awakened the attention of
the community in the Atlantic States, to this Great Valley,
and excited the desires of multitudes to remove hither,
may be reckoned the efforts of the liberal and benevolent to
aid the West in the immediate supply of her population
/'with the Bible, with Sunday Schools, with religious tracts,
with the gospel ministry, and to lay the foundation for
Colleges and other literary institutions. Hundreds of fam-
ilies, who might otherwise have remained m the crowded
cities and densely populated neighborhoods of their ances-
tors, have had their attention directed to these States as a
permanent home. And thousands more of virtuous and
industrious families would follow, and fix their future resi-
dence on our prairies, and in our western forests, cultivate
INTRODUCTION. Vll
our wild landp, — aid in building up our towns and cities,
and diffuse a healthful moral and intellectual influence /
through the mass of our present population, could they
feel assured that they can reach some portion of the West-
ern Valley without great risk and expense, — provide for
their families comfortably, and not be swept off by sickness,
or overwhelmed by suffering, beyond what is incident to
any new country.
The author's first book, " A Guide for Emigrants,*'
&,c. was written in the winter and spring of 1831, to
answer the pressing call then made for information of these
western states, but more especially that of Illinois; — but
many of its particulars, as to the character and usages of
the people, manners and customs, modes of erecting build-
ings, general characteristics and qualities of soil, productions,
&c. were applicable to the West generally.
Since that period, brief as it has been, wide and rapid
changes have been made, population has rapidly augment-
ed, beyond that of any former period of the same extent, —
millions of acres of the public domain, then wild and
hardly explored, have been brought into market; settlements
and counties have been formed, and populous towns have
sprung up where, at that time, the Indian and wild beast
had possession ; facilities for intercommunication have been
greatly extended, and distant places have been brought
comparatively near; the desire to emigrate to the west has
increased, and everybody in the Atlantic states has become
interested and inquires about the (ireat Valley. That res-
pectable place, so much the theme of declamation and
inquiry abroad, " The Far West,^^ has gone from this
region towards the setting sun. Its exact locality has not
yet been settled, but probably it may soon be found along
the gulf of California, or near Nootka Sound. And if.
distance is to be measured by time, and the facility of inter-
course, we are now several hundred miles nearer the
Atlantic coast than twenty years since. Ten years more,
and the facilities of railways and improved machinery will y''
place the Mississippi within seven day's travel of Boston,
— six days of Washington city, and five days of Ctiarles-
ton, S. C.
Vlll INTRODUCTION.
To give a brief, and yet correct account of a portion of
this Great Valley, its resources, the manners and customs of
its inhabitants, its political subdivisions, cities,commercial and
other important towns, colleges and other literary institu-
tions, religious condition, public lands, qualities of soil and
general features of each state and territory named in the
title page, together with such information as may form a
kind of manual for the emigrant and man of business, or
which may aid him on his journey hither, and enable him
to surmount successfully the difficulties of a new country,
is the object of this new work. In accomplishing this task
the author has aimed at correctness and brevity. To con-
dense the particular kind of information called for by the
public mind in a small space, has been no easy task. Nor
has it been a small matter to collect from so wide a range
as five large states, and two extensive territories, with
other large districts, the facts and statistical information
often found in the compass of less than a page.
It is an easy task to a belles-lettre scholar, sitting at his
desk, in an easy chair, and by a pleasant fire, to write
"Histories," and "Geographies," and " Sketches," and
"Recollections," and "Views," and "Tours" of the
Western Valley, — but it is quite another concern to explore
these regions, examme public documents, reconcile contra-
dictory statements, correspond with hundreds of persons in
public and private life, read all the histories, geographies,
tours, sketches, and recollections that have been published,
and correct their numerous errors, — then collate, arrange,
digest, and condense the facts of the country. Those who
have read his former "Guide for Emigrants," will
find upon perusal, that this is radically a neiv work — i-ather
than a new edition. Its whole plan is changed; and though
some whole pages of the former work are retamed, and
many of its facts and particulars given in a more condensed
form, much of that work being before the public in other
forms, he has been directed, both by his own judgment, and
the solicitude of the public mind in the Atlantic states, to
give to the work its present form and features.
There are three classes of persons in particular who may
derive advantage from this Guide. . —
INTRODUCTION. IX
1 . All those who intend to remove to the states and ter-
ritories described. Such persons, whether citizens of the
Atlantic states, or natives of Europe, will find in this small ^
volume, much of that species of information for which
they are solicitous.
It has been a primary object of the author throughout
this work, to furnish the outline of facts necessary for this
class. He is aware also that much in detail will be desired
and eagerly sought after, which the portable and limited
size of this little work could not contain; but such inform-
ation may be found in the larger works, by Hall, Flint,
Darby, Schoolcraft, Long, and other authors and travellers.
Those who desire more specific and detailed descriptions of
Illinois, will be satisfied probably with the author's
Gazetteer of that State, published in 1834, and which
can be had by application to the author, or to the publish-
ers of this work.
2. This Guide is also designed for those, who, for either
pleasure, health or business, intend to travel through the
western States. Such are now the facilities of intercom-
munication between the eastern and western States, and to
most points in the Valley of the Mississippi, that thousands
are visiting some portions of this interesting region every
month. Some knowledge of the routes that lead to differ-
ent parts of this Valley, the lines of steamboats and stages,
cities, towns, public institutions, manners and customs of
the people, &c., is certainly desirable to all who travel.
Such persons may expect a correct, and it is hoped, a
pleasant Guide in this book.
3. There is a numerous class of persons in the Atlantic
States, who desire to know more about the Great West
and to have a book for reference, who do not expect to
emigrate here. Many are deeply interested in its moral
welfare. They have cheerfully contributed to establish
and build up its literary and religious institutions, and yet
from want of access to those facts which exist amongst us,
their information is but partial and limited. The author in
his travels in the Atlantic states has met with many persons,
who, though well informed on other subjects, are surpris-
ingly ignorant of the actual condition, resources, society.
Iff INTRODUCTION.
manners of the people, and even the geography of these
states and territories. The author is aware of the difficul-
ty of conveying entirely correct ideas of this r^ion to a
person who has never travelled beyond the borders of his
native state. The laws and habits of associating ideas in
the human mind forbid it.
The chief source of information for those states that lie
on the Mississippi, has been the personal observation of the
author, — having explored most of the settlements in Mis-
souri and Illinois, and a portion of Indiana and Ohio, —
having spent more than eighteen years here, and seen the
two former states, from an incipient territorial form of gov-
ernment, and a few scattered and detached settlements,
arise to their present state of improvement, population,
wealth and national importance. His next source of infor-
mation has been from personal acquaintance and corres-
pondence with many intelligent citizens of the states and
territories he describes. Reference has also been had to
the works of Hall, Flint, Darby, Breckenridge, Beck,
Long, Schoolcraft, Lewis and Clarke, Mitchel's and Tan-
ner's maps. Farmer's map of Michigan, TurnbuU's map of
Ohio, The Ohio Gazetteer, The Indiana Gazetteer, Dr.
Drake's writings, Mr. Coy's Annual Register of Indian
affairs, EUicott's surveys, and several periodicals.
J. M. P.
Rock Spring, Illinois, January, 1836.
CHAPTER I.
GENERAL VIEW OF THE VALLEY OP THE MISSISSIPPL
Its extent, Subdivisions, Population, Physical fea-
tures,— Animal, Vegetable and Mineral productions, —
History, — Prospective increase of Population.
The Valley of the Mississippi, in its proper
geographical extent, embraces all that portion
of the United States, lying between the Alle-
ghany and Rocky Mountains, the waters of
which are discharged into the gulf of Mexico,
through the mouths of the Mississippi. I have
embraced, however, under that general term,
a portion of the country bordering on the
northern lakes, including the north part of
Ohio, the northeastern portions of Indiana and
Illinois, the whole of Michigan, with a con-
siderable territorial district on the west side of
lake iVIichigan, and around lake Superior.
Extent. This great Valley is one of the
largest divisions of the globe, the waters of
which pass one estuary.
To suppose the United States and its terri-
12 peck's guide
tory to be divided into three portions, the
arrangement would be, the Atlantic slope — the
Mississippi basin, or valley — and the Pacific
slope.
A glance on any map of North America,
will show that this Valley includes about two
thirds of the territory of the United States.
The Atlantic slope contains about 390,000; the
Pacific slope, about 300,000; which, combined,
are 690,000 square miles: while the Valley of
the Mississippi contains at least 1,300,000
square miles, or 833,000,000 acres.
This Valley extends from the 29° to the 49°
of N. latitude, or about 1400 miles from south
to north ; and from the 3° to the 35° of longi-
tude west from Washington, or about 1470
miles from east to west. From the source of
the Alleghany river to the sources of the Mis-
souri, following the meanderings of the streams,
is not less than 5000 miles.
Stib divisions. The states and territories in-
cluded, are a small section of New York
watered by the heads of the Alleghany river,
western Pennsylvania, western Virginia, Ohio,
Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Michigan, Ken-
tucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Louisiana, Ter-
ritory of Arkansas, Indian Territory, the vast
unsettled regions lying to the v/est and north
of this Territory, the Wisconsin Territory in-
cluding an extensive country west of the
Mississippi and north of the state of Missouri,
with the vast regions that lie towards the heads
FOR EMIGRANTS. IS
of the Mississippi, and around lake Superior.*
Population. The following table, gives a
comparative view of the population of the
Valley of the Mississippi, and shows the pro-
portional increase of the several States, parts
of States, and Territories, from 1790 to the
close of 1835, a period of 45 years. The
column for 1835 is made up partly from the
census taken in several states and territories,
and partly by estimation. It is sufficiently ac-
curate for general purposes.
* Why the names Huron, Mandan, Sioux, Osage, and
Ozark have been applied by Darby and other authors, to
the extensive regions on the Upper Mississippi, the Upper
Missouri, and the Arkansas rivers, I am not able to solve.
Osage is a French corruption of Wos-sosh-e, and Ozark
is an awkward, illiterate corruption of Osage. Sioux is
another French corruption, the origin of which is not now
easily ascertained. Carver and other travellers, call this
nation of Indians Nau-do-wes-sees. Chiefs of this nation
have repeatedly disclaimed the name of Sioux, (pronounced
Soos.) They sometimes call themselves Da-co-tah.
14
PECK S GUIDE
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FOR EMIGRANTS. 1)3
Probably there is no portion of the globe, of
equal extent, that contains as much of soil fit
for cultivation, and which is capable of sus-
taining and supplying with all the necessaries
and conveniences, and most of the luxuries of
life, so dense a population as this great Valley.
Deducting one third of its surface for water
and desert, which is a very liberal allowance,
and there remains 866,667 square miles, or
554,666,880 acres of arable land.
Let it become as populous as Massachusetts,
which contains 610,014 inhabitants on an area
of 7,800 square miles, or seventy-eight to
every 640 acres, and the population of this
immense region will amount to 67,600,000.
The child is now born which will live to see
this result. Suppose its population to become
equally dense with England, including Wales,
which contains 207 to the square mile, and its
numbers will amount to 179,400,000. But let
it become equal to the Netherlands, the most
populous country on the globe, containing 230
to the square mile, and the Valley of the Mis^-
sissippi teems with a population of 200 millions,
a result which may be had in the same time
that New England has been gathering its two
millions. What reflections ought this view to
present to the patriot, the philanthropist, and
the christian.
Physical Features. The physical features of
this Valley are peculiar.
1. It includes two great inclined planes, one
16 peck's guide
on its eastern, and the other on its western
border, terminating with the Mississippi.
2. This river receives all the waters pro-
duced on these slopes, which are discharged
by its mouths into the gulf of Mexico.
3. Every part of this vast region can be
penetrated by steamboats, or other water craft;
nor is there a spot in all this wide region, ex-
cepting a small district in the vast plains of
Upper Missouri, that is more than one hundred
miles from some navigable water. A boat
may take in its lading on the banks of the
Chatauque lake, in the State of New York;
another may receive its cargo in the interior of
Virginia; a third may start from the rice lakes
at the head of the Mississippi; and a fourth
may come laden with furs from the Chippewan
mountains, 2,800 miles up the Missouri, and
all meet at the mouth of the Ohio, and pro-
ceed in company to the ocean.
4. With the exception of its eastern and
western borders, there are no mountains.
Some portions are level, a large part is gently
undulating, or what in the west is called
" rolling," and the remainder is made up of
abrupt hills, flint and Hmestone ridges, bluffs,
and ravines.
5. It is divided into two great portions, the
Upper, and Lower Valley, according to its
general features, climate, staple productions,
and habits of its population. The parallel of
latitude that cuts the mouth of the Ohio river,
FOR EMIGRANTS. 17
will designate these portions with sufficient ac-
curacy.
North of this line the seasons are regularly
divided into spring, summer, autumn, and win-
ter. In the winter there is usually more or
less snow, ice forms and frequently blocks up
the rivers, navigation is obstructed, and cotton
is not produced in sufficient quantity or quality
to make it a staple for exportation. It is the
region of furs, minerals, tobacco, hemp, live
stock, and every description of grain and fruit
that grows in New England. Its white popu-
lation are mostly accustomed to labor.
South of this line, cotton, tobacco, indigo,
and sugar are staples. It has little winter,
snow seldom covers the earth, ice never ob-
structs the rivers, and most of the labor is
done by slaves.
Rivers. The rivers are, the Mississipp'i and
its tributaries, or more correctly, the Missouri-
and its tributaries. If we except the Amazon,
no river can compare with this for length of
its course, the number and extent of its tribu-
taries, the vast country they drain, and their
capabilities for navigation. Its tributaries
generally issue either from the eastern or
western mountains, and flow ovet this immense
region, diffiising not only fertility to the soil,
but affording facilities for commerce a great
part of the year.
The Missouri is unquestionably the main
stream, for it is not only longer and discharges
a larger volume of water than the Mississippi
>18 PECK^S GUIDE
above its mouth, but it has branches, which^
for the extent of country they drain, their
length, and the volume of water they dis-
charge, far exceed the upper Mississippi.
The characteristics of these two rivers are
each distinctly marked. The Missouri is tur-
bid, violent in its motions, changing its currents;
its navigation is interrupted or made difficult
by snags, sawyers and planters, and it has
many islands and sand-bars. Such is the
character of the Mississippi below the mouth
of the Missouri. But above its mouth, its wa-
ters are clear, its current gentle, while it is
comparatively tree from snags and sand-bars.
The Missouri, which we have shown to be
the principal stream, rises in the Chippewan,
or Rocky mountains in latitude 44° north, and
longitude about 35° west from Washington
city. It runs a northeast course till after it
receives the Yellow Stone, when it reaches
past the 48° of latitude, thence an east, then a
south, and finally a southeastern course, until
it meets the current of the Mississippi, 20
miles above St. Louis, and in latitude 38° 45'
north. Besides numerous smaller streams, the
Missouri receives the Yellow Stone and Blatte,
which of themselves, in any other part of the
world, would be called large rivers, together
with the Sioux, Kansau, Grand, Chariton,
Osage, and Gasconade, all large and navigable
rivers.
Its length, upon an entire comparative
course, is 1870 miles, and upon a particular
FOR EMIGRANTS. 19
course, about 3000 miles, Lewis and Clark
make the distance from the Mississippi to the
great falls, 2580 miles.
There are several things in some respects
peculiar to this river, which deserve notice.
1. Its current is very rapid, usually at the
rate of four or five miles an hour, when at its
height; and it requires a strong wind to propel
a boat with a sail against it. Steam overcomes
its force, for boats ply regularly from St.
Louis to the towns and landings on its banks
within the borders of the state, and return
with the produce of the country. Small steam-
boats have gone to the Yellow Stone for furs.
Owing to the shifting of its current, and its
snags and sand-bars, its navigation is less safe
and pleasant than any other western river, but
these difficulties are every year lessened by
genius and enterprise.
2, Its water is always turbid, being of a
muddy, ash color, though more so at its peri-
odical rise than at other times. This is caused
by extremely fine sand, received from the
neighborhood of the Yellow Stone, During
the summer flood, a tumbler of water taken from
the Missouri, and precipitated, will produce
about one fourth of its bulk in sediment.
This sediment does not prevent its habitual
use by hundreds who live on its banks, or
move in boats over its surface. Some filtrate
it, but many more drink it, and use it for culi-
nary purposes, in its natural state.
When entirely filtrated, it is the most limpid
so peck's guide
and agreeable river water I ever saw. Its
specific gravity then, is about equal to rain
water; but in its turbid state, it is much heav-
ier than ordinary river water, for a boat will
draw three or four inches less in it than in
other rivers, with the same lading, and the
human body will swim in it with but \ery little
effort.
It possesses some medicinal properties.
Placed in an open vessel and exposed to the
/^ summer's sun, it remains pure for weeks.
Eruptions on the skin and ulcerous sores are
cured by wading or frequent bathings, and
commonly it produces slight cathartic effects
upon strangers upon its first use.
The width of the Missouri river at St.
Charles, is 550 yards. Its alluvial banks
however are insecure, and are not unfrequent-
ly washed away for many yards at its annual
floods. The bed of its channel is also preca-
rious, and is elevated or depressed by the
deposition or removal of its sandy foundation.
Hence the elevation or depression of the sur-
face of this river, affords no criterion of its
depth, or of the volume of water it discharges
at any one period.
Undulatory motions, like the boiling of a
pot, are frequently seen on its surface, caused
by the shifting of the sand that forms its bed.
The volume of water it ordinarily discharges
into the Mississippi is vastly disproportionate
to its length, or the number and size of its
tributaries. I have seen less than six feet
FOR EMIGRANTS. 21
depth of water at St, Charles at a low stage,
and it was once lorded by a soldier, at BeJle-
fontaine, four miles above its junction with
the Mississippi.
Evaporation takes up large quantities, but
absorption throughout the porous soil of its
wide bottoms consumes much more. In all
the wells dug in the bottom lands of the Mis-
souri, water is always found at the depth of
the surface of the river, and invariably rises
or sinks with the floods and ebbings of the
stream. Volumes of sand frequently enter
these wells as the river rises.
Its periodical floods deserve notice. Ordi-
narily this river has three periods of rising
and falling each year. The first rise is caused
by the breaking up of winter on the Gascon-
ade, Osage, Kansau, Chariton, Grand, and
other branches of the lower Missouri , and oc-
curs the latter part of February, or early in
March. Its second rise is usually in April,
when the Platte, Yellow Stone, and other
streams pour into it their spring floods. But
the flood that more usually attracts attention
takes place from the 10th to the 25th of June,
when the melting snows on the Chippewan
mountains pour their contents into the Missouri.
This flood is scarcely ever less than five, nor
more than 20 feet at St. Louis, above the ordi-
nary height of the river. On two occasions,
however, since the country was known to the
French, it has arisen to that height in the Mis-
sissippi as to flow over the American Bottom
^2 .aBE-OKi's GUIDE I
jn Illinois, and;dFiviQ;the)iahabita»tS of Gaiiokia
and JC ask askia; from theiriviillagegto Xhe bJiife,
Hain inJgreater or less quantities u usually; fall^
during the rise of the river, and -ceases wheii
the waters f subside] sSo umforniiUS. thisMhe
case in; Upper Mi^sojuH, the. region beyond the
iboundary; of ithe State , that the.i aeasoiis laire
-divided! into vi^eti^and; dry.' odi id -lif;:) «[[ v.t od;
■{; Pumic©:^tones and other iiy(dcamo;,pi;Mucr
^iohs dcteasionally flo^t dowa !its, waters.. . ; ; o:i i
: ; . [ 'Mmsissippi 'River.\ < The extrerriei head ; of tb.e
•longest 'braja.ch ;of Mthe Mississippi, river, has
been found in lake Itaska^ior Lac •Ja'Biche,,biy
^r^ /Schoolcraft, fwho states il:tOibei elevaited
^i'jD.Offeet above, ;the Atlantic ocean yiandl idisr
itanfciS, 1^0 miles fi-omtheextreame; outlet of fiybe
-irivernaJt dihe ,gulf of Mexico. I;he -o^utl^jt ;of
Hfcaska lake , which: is x^onnectcd .with a striijg
-of. small lakes^ is ten oi* t\Velve feet broad, j^ad
/twelve or fifteen iiiches deep. ; Tbife is in latjr
,tude about: 48P; north.\ From, .this it .ipa^ses
•iCrfdarland several smaller .laitegj and; runs' a
iwihding- course ; • 700 ; Smites j to ;the ; falls , of ■ St
iAnthoHy , where its ; ! waters : are jprecipitated
.over.acaiaract of 16 or 17 feet perpertdicul^i!.
lit th«|nj!c6fitinile9 a southeas|;eri6 icourge to the
Missouri,' id* (N. latii 36° Sa' y ; ;t^eeiving I the i Sit.
'Honoixj ; Dhipipewaf, Wisconsin, j Rock and > 1111-
-abis ^ii^ersy^ithi maliy smalier streams fcoTO
^theji-ieast, ^riduithe .Sti. Peter's^ ;Iowa^ .Dee
(Moirtefly/and Salt i;iverisy.besides( a number^
-©MalleiiorieBlifrotriMthiecWiest; ,<;The cur^rent/of
(thjdtMIsatttirit'8trlkesn'th«,4 «f thei Missisjsigpi^ftit
I*
FOR BMIGiiaJfTS. 25'
right angles j.^rid throws it upon the easternt
shore. When at a low stage, the waters of
the t wo ■ rivers are ■ distinct till they pass St,;
lAirtliS!./:/ ■•.■: :;; i;:, •' : ... ' ;
'(The principal branch of the Upper Missis-,
sippi^ is the St. Peter's, which rises in the
great prairies in the northwest, and enters the)
parent stream ten miles below the. falls of St.
Anthony. Towards the sources of this riven
the quarries exist from which are made the red
stone pipes of the Indians. This is sacred
ground. Hostile tribes mfeet ihere, and' ipart
unmolested. •■ .^ ■ ^ ' ..:'.< '\\r: l\ '•;:; ..--•••I
Rock river drains the waters from the norths
ern part of JHinois and Wisconsin, and enters
the parent stream at 41° 30' north latitude;
In latitude 39° comes in the Illinois, signifying
the ''River of Men;" and eighteen miles be-
low this, it unites withy and is^ lost in the
Missouri:.' ■ ^ r' ■ ■
Custom has fixed unalterably, the name
Mississippi, to this united body of waters, that
rolli^ its turbid waves towaiids the Mexican
gulf; though, as has bieen iatitoated, it is but
a continuation of the Missouri.)' ':M'' ' .'■
Sixty miles below St. Louis, the Kaskaskia
joins it^ after '^ devious course nf 400 miles;
In 3i7° north latitude, the Ohio pours in it^
tribute, called by the early French explorers^
" La Belle Riviere," the beautiful river: rA
little below 34° ^ the White river; enters after a
course of more than 1,0(0 miles. Thirty
miles below that , the Arkansas , bringing; it)B
24 peck's guide
tribute from the confines of Mexico, pours in
its waters. Above Natchez, the Yazoo from
the east, and eighty miles below, the Red
river from the v/est, unite their waters with the
Mississippi. Red River takes its rise in the
Mexican dominions, and runs a course of more
than 2,000 miles.
Hitherto, the waters in the wide regions of
the west have been congregating to one point.
The " Father of Waters," is now. upwards of
a mile in width, and several fathoms deei),
}3aring its annual floods, it overflows its banks
below the mouth of the Ohio, and penetrates
the nnmerous bayous, lakes, and swamps, and
especially on its western side. In many places
these floods extend thirty or forty miles into
the interior. But after it receives the K.ed
river, it begins to throw off its surplus waters,
which flow in separate channels to the gulf,
and never again unite with the parent stream.
Several of these communications are held with
the ocean at different and distant points.
Ohio River. The Ohio river is formed by
the junction of the Alleghany and Mononga-
hela, at Pittsburg. The Alleghany river rises
not far from the head of the western branch of
the Susquehannah, in the highlands of Mc-
Kean county, Pennsylvania. It runs north
till it penetrates Cataraugus county, New
York, then turns v/est, then southwest, and
finally takes a southern course to Pittslmrg.
It receives a branch from the Chatauque lake,
Chatauque county, New York. The Monon-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 2S
gahela rises near the sources of the Kenhawa,
in western Virginia, and runs north till it
meets the Alleghany.
The general course of the Ohio is southwest.
Its current is gentle, and it receives a number
of tributaries, which are noticed in the States
where they run.
The Valley of the Mississippi has been ar-
ranged by Mr. Darby, into four great subdi-
visions.
1. The Ohio Valkij, length 750 miles, and
mean width 261; containing 196,000 square
miles.
2. Mississippi Valley^ above Ohio, including
the minor valley of Illinois, but exclusive of
Missouri, 650 miles long, and 277 mean width,
and containing 180,000 square miles.
3. Lower Valley of the Mississippi, including
White, Arkansas, and Red river vallies, 1,000
miles long, and 200 wide, containing 200,000
square miles.
4. Missouri proper, including Osage , Kansau ,
Platte rivers, &c. 1,200 miles long, and 437
wide, containing 523,000 square miles.
'' The Valley of the Ohio is better known
than any of the others; has much fertile land,
and much that is steril, or unfit for cultivation,
on account of its unevenness. It is divided
into two unequal portions, by the Ohio river;
leaving on the right or northwest side 80,000,
and on the left or southeast side, 116,000
square miles. The eastern part of this valley
is hilly, and rapidly acclivous towards the
26* .^BECKf^JBUIUiE? r
.^^Lppalaiefiian lun^wntainsi - Indeed its high hiJls-,
ais lybu ; approaGh i these .mountainsy are of :a
strongly marked mountainous charactbri'iM
doors^^the river^ Arhifch flow into the Ohio^ —
the' : iMonongahela^ K^nlia-wa, Licfcing , Sandys
Kentucky), Gr^en, Cumberliand ,'and TelmesSde
— are rapid, and abounding in cataracts aiid
falls^ vw(hi^h| t9:wards their sources, greatly
iinpiede ixavigatiori. The western side Jof this
Valley is, also, hilly for a considerabte dis-^
tancq frbm the'^ Ohio, lbi?t' towards its western
limit, it subsides to a rentarkably level region;
So that whilst the eastern line of this Valley
Jiesi lalong. thie ' high table land , on which the
Appalachian niountains ' rest, and where the?
rivers of the^ eastern section of this Valley
rise, which is at least 2,000 miles generaHy
abdveithe bpean level; the western line has
not',dn elevation iof much more than half o^f
that amount on; the , noi^th , and which greatly
subsides towards the Kaskaskia. The rive;ns
of ; the : western ' section ' are Beaver, Musk-
ingum,:; Hockhocking<, Sbioto^ Miami, "aM
Wabash. lAlongithe Ohio, on each side jkre
high hills ,■ often? iii"tei^ect6d \vith de^p ra.'vintes,
and i so'metimes openings of considerable cx-t
tent, and; well known by the! appellatiom' /of
f ^ Ohio hills'. " . Towards r the mouth of ; the
Ghio^ thes^ hilis' almost wholly disappear, atid
e?itie*rtsive level; bottoms^ -cohered with heavy
forests' of oak", sycamore, elm', poplar^ and
cotton wood^ gtrqtch along each side; of the
river.' On the^^ilowfer^seetioa of tb© rivekijthe
^ FaH;JEMI)0B;ANirS. 33
AVi^t^p, at >th.e tim^: of ;tl*e ^.spmng; Jioodsv /often
overflows these bottoms to a -gr^ at; extent.
This fine VgJley embraces consideif ably; jaiore
filian one half of, the wh^^l® I^opiilation of the
efttire Yallfiy. of the West; T^ie-western_ parts
of iP^ntigylvania an(J:^/'irginia, the entire states
xifs i I Qhh , ; Indiana, and .Kentucky ,: the larger
part of Tennessee, and a smalleii part of ilH*-
(!*(#,, arfe in the VftUey; of the Ohio. '* ; '
^■)i\^The<'lJpp€r. Valky.ofihe Mississippi possesses
■ia,suVfac;e far less diveiisifi^d th;in the Valley: of
ithoQhiOi ; The country where: ; its most northr
^i^hrian<Jh0» take their rise, is elevated table
-tod, albounding; with: marshes and lakesythat
^re fiUfed with a , granifer6us Vegetable called
\tild : rifio. , It is a slim , shrivelled , grain of a
J>jCOvynish nuei, and gathered :by the Indiana. in
,l?irge quantitiies for food.! Their^ ard tr*acts ©f
farablo ! laiid co'vered with elm , linden , pine,
;h(3rt\lock^' cherry ) maple, birch landi Other, tim^
b|^r:<iommonvto( a nortliem climate. From,' the
same plateciu; flow the nlimenoua brahohes of
jRed [river, 'and other streanis thaf; flowr into
iake^ Wi&wpeck^ and. thence into Hudson's
btiiyii-rflepe^-iiofo,' are found some of the h^ad
.brahcfie.^iof ttl%e swateirs! of St. Lawf encei, that
\m^epS\ie( Jjftke cff; ! itihel Woods , and Sup^rion.
,l]$ the wh^olei: iciotHntify i<i>f ; whi^^h: we : aref isp^ ak'-
ingv ,tneQ!eeig|4)Mhing; tto/dfeserves! the : hami^ M
Gltiownt&ift. iBieloiWrthe falls ;of St; Aiithdiiy the
/m^Yi 'hkif^' /SiXQ. ctftsen yabrUptv twildi and fromaii-
^iflj;,^jd^ at: th^irtrbias|3a^»dI4loiig(>the^i9tiiekm»
28 peck's guide
are thousands of quartz crystals , carnelians
and other precious stones.
But a short distance in the rear, you enter
upon table land of extensive prairies, with
clumps of trees, and groves along the streams.
Further down, abrupt cliffs and overhanging
precipices are frequently seen at the termina-
tion of the river alluvion.
The whole country northwest of the Ohio
and east of the Mississippi, as far north as the
falls of St. Anthony, exhibits striking marks of
a diluvial formation, by a gradual retiring of
the waters. From the summit level that divides
the waters of the lakes from those of the Mis-
sissippi, through Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and
Wisconsin, which is scarcely a perceptible
ridge, to the south point of Illinois at the junc-
tion of the Ohio and Mississippi, appears to
have once been a plane with an inclination
equal to 12 or 15 inches per mile. The ravines
and vallies appear to have been gradually
scooped out by the abrasion of the waters.
^' The Lower Mississippi Valley, has a length
of 1 ,200 miles, from northwest to southeast, con-
sidering the source of the Arkansas, and the
mouth of the Mississippi river as extreme points;
reaching from north latitude 29° to 42°, and
without estimating mountains, ridges, or peaks,
differs in relative elevation at least 500 feet.
'' The Arkansas 7iver rises near north latitude
42°, and longitude 32° west from Washington,
and falls into the Mississippi at 33° 56', passing
over eight degrees of latitude.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 29
^^ Red River rises in the mountainous country
of Mexico, north of Texas, in north latitude 34°;
and west longitude 28° from Washington, and
falls into the Mississippi in latitude 31°. They
are both remarkable rivers for their extent, the
number of their branches, the volume of their
waters, the quantity of alluvion they carry down
to the parent stream, and the color of their
waters. Impregnated by saline particles, and
colored with ocherous earth, the waters of these
two rivers are at once brackish and nauseous
to the taste, particularly near their mouths;
that of Red river is so much so at Natchitoches
at low water that it cannot be used for culinary
purposes.
"At a short distance below the mouth of the
Red river, a large bayou, (as it is called,) or
outlet, breaks from the Mississippi on the west;
by which, it is believed, that as large a volume
of water as the Red river brings to the parent
river, is drained ofF^ and runs to the gulf of
Mexico, fifty miles from the mouth of the Mis-
sissippi. The name of this bayou is Atchafa-
laya, or as it is commonly called, Ckaffalio.
Below this bayou, another of large dimensions
breaks forth on the same side, and finally falls
into the Atchafalaya. This is the Placque-
mine. Still lower, at Donaldsonville, ninety
miles above New Orleans, on the same side,
the Lafourche bayou breaks out, and pursues
a course parallel to the Mississippi, fifty miles
west of the mouth of that river. On the east
side, the Ibberville bayou drains off a portion
2
30 peck's guide
of the waters of the Mississippi, into lakes Mau-
repas, Ponchartrain, Borgnes, and the gulf of
Mexico, and thus forms the long and narrow
island of Orleans.
'' In the lower Valley of the Mississippi there
is a great extent of land of the very richest
kind. There is also much that is almost al-
ways overflown with waters, and is a perpetual
swamp. There are extensive prairies in this
Valley; and towards the Rocky mountains; on
the upper waters of the Arkansas and Red
rivers, there are vast barren steppes or plains
of sand, dreary and barren, like the central
steppes of Asia. On the east of the Missis-
sippi, are extensive regions of the densest
forests, which form a striking contrast with the
prairies which stretch on the west of that great
river.
^^ The Valley of the Missouri extends 1200
miles in length, and 700 in width, and embraces
253,000 square miles. The Missouri river
rises in the Chippewan mountains, through
eight degrees, or nearly 600 miles. The Yel-
low Stone is its longest branch. The course
of the Missouri, after leaving the Rocky moun-
tains, is generally southeast, until it unites
with the Mississippi. The principal branches
flow from the southwest. They are the Osage,
Kansas, Platte, &c. The three most striking
features of this Valley are, 1st. The turbid
character of its waters. 2d. The very unequal
volumes of the right and left confluences. 3d.
The immense predominance of the open prairies,
FOR EMIGRANTS. SI
over the forests which line the rivers. The
western part of this Valley rises to an elevation
towards the Chippewan mountains, equal to ten
degrees of temperature. Ascending from the
lower verge of this widely extended plain,
wood becomes more and more scarce, until
one naked surface spreads on all sides. Even
the ridges and chains of the Chippewan, par-
take of these traits of desolation. The travel-
ler, who has read the descriptions of central
Asia, by Tooke or Pallas, will feel on the higher
branches of the Missouri, a resemblance, at
once striking and appalling; and he will ac-
knowledge, if near to the Chippewan mountains
in winter, that the utmost intensity of frost over
Siberia and Mongolia, has its full counterpart
in North America, on similar, if not on lower
latitudes. There is much fertile land in the
Valley of the Missouri, though much of it must
be forever the abode of the buffalo and the elk,
the wolf and the deer.*
* Darby.
32
CHAPTER II.
GENERAL VIEW OF THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPL
(continued.)
Productions.
Minerals. — But few mines exist in the Lower
Valley of the Mississippi. Louisiana, being
chiefly alluvion, furnishes only two specimens,
sulphuret of antimony, and meteoric iron ore.
It is supposed that the pine barrens towards
Texas, if explored, would add to the number.
The only minerals in Mississippi, are ame-
thyst, of which one crystal has been found;
potter's clay, at the Chickasaw Bluffs, and near
Natchez; sulphuret of lead in small quantities,
about Port Gibson; and sulphate of iron. Petri-
fied trunks of trees are found in the bed of the
Mississippi, opposite Natchez. In Arkansas
Territory are various species. Here may be
found the native magnet, or magnetic oxide of
iron, possessing strong magnetic power. Iron
ores are very abundant. Sulphate of copper,
sulphuret of zinc, alum, and aluminous slate are
found about the cove of Washitau, and the Hot
Springs. Buhr stone of a superior quahty ex-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 33
ists in the surrounding hills. The hot springs
are interesting on account of the minerals
around them, the heat of their waters, and as
furnishing a retreat to valetudinarians from the
sickly regions of the south. They are situated
on the Washitau, a large stream that empties
itself into Red river.
The lead mines of Missouri have been worked
for more than a century. They are distributed
through the country from thirty to one hundred
miles southwest from St. Louis, and probably
extend through the Gasconade country. Im-
mense quantities of iron ore exist in this region.
Lead is found in vast quantities in the northern
part of Illinois, the south part of the Wisconsin
Territory, and the country on the opposite side
of the Mississippi. These mines are worked
extensively. Native copper in large quantities
is found in the same region. Large quantities
of iron ore is found in the mountainous parts
of Tennessee and Kentucky, where furnaces
and forges have been erected. Also, in the
hilly parts of Ohio, particularly at the falls of
Licking four miles west of Zanesville, and in
Adams and Lawrence counties near the Ohio
river. With iron ore the West is profusely sup-
plied.
Bituminous coal exists in great profusion in
various parts of the Western Valley. The
hills around Pittsburg are inexhaustible. It
extends through many portions of Ohio and
Indiana. Nearly every county in Illinois is sup-
34 peck's guide
plied with this valuable article. Missouri, Ken-
tucky, and Tennessee have their share. Im-
mense quantities are found in the mountains
along the Kenhawa, in Western Virginia, and
it is now employed in the manufacture of salt.
The Cumberland mountains in Tennessee con-
tain immense deposits.
Muriate of Soda or common salt, exists in
most of the states and territories of this Valley.
Near the sources of the Arkansas incrustations
are formed by evaporation during the dry sea-
son, in the depressed portions of the immense
prairies of that region. The celebrated salt
rock is on the red fork of the Canadian, a
branch of the Arkansas river. Jefferson lake
has its water strongly impregnated with salt,
and is of a bright red color. Beds of rock salt
are in the mountains of this region. Several
counties of Missouri have abundant salt springs.
Considerable quantities of salt are manufac-
tured in Jackson, Gallatin and Vermillion
counties, Illinois. Saline springs, and " licks "
as they are called, abound through Kentucky,
Tennessee, Indiana, Ohio, Western Pennsyl-
■\ania, and Western Virginia. Salt is manu-
factured in great abundance at the Kenhawa
salines, 16 miles above Charlestown, Va., and
brought down the Kenhawa river and carried
to all the Western States. Much salt is made
also on the Kiskiminitas, a branch of the Al-
leghany river, at the Yellow creek above Steu-
benville, and in the Scioto country in Ohio.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 35
The water is frequently obtained by boring
through rock of different strata, several hun-
dred feet deep.
Copper, antimony, manganese, and several
other minerals are found in different parts of the
West, but are not yet worked. JVitrate of pot-
ash is found in great abundance in the caverns
of Kentucky and Tennessee, also in Missouri,
from which large quantities of Saltpetre are
manufactured. Sulphate of Magnesia is found
in Kentucky, Indiana, and perhaps other states.
Sulphur and other mineral springs are very
common in the western states.
Vegetable Productions. — Trees y S^c. Almost
every species of timber and shrub common to
the Atlantic states is found in some part of the
Western Valley. The cotton wood and syca-
more are found along all the rivers below the
41° of N. latitude. The cypress begins near
the mouth of the Ohio and spreads through the
alluvion portions of the Lower Valley. The
magnoHa, with its large, beautiful flower, grows
in Louisiana, and the long leaf pine flourishes
in the uplands of the same region. The sugar
maple abounds in the northern and middle por-
tions. The chesnut is found in the eastern
portion of the Valley as far as Indiana, but not
a tree is known to exist in a natural state west
of the Wabash river. Yellow or pitch pine,
grows in several counties of Missouri, especially
on the Gasconade, from whence large quanti-
ties of lumber are brought to St. Louis. White
pine from the Alleghany river is annually sent
36 peck's guide
to all the towns on the Ohio, and further down.
Considerable quantities of white pine grow on
the upper Mississippi, along the western shore
of Michigan, about Green bay, and along the
shores of lake Superior. The yellow poplar,
(Liriodendron tulipifera) is a majestic tree, val-
uable for light boards, and may be found in
some parts of most of the western states. The
beech tree is frequently found in company.
The live oak, so valuable in ship building, is
found south of the 31°, and along the Louisiana
coast. The orange, fig, olive, pine apple, &c.
find a genial climate about New Orleans. High
in the north we have the birch, hemlock, fir,
and other trees pecuhar to a cold region.
Amongst our fruit bearing trees we may enu-
merate the walnut, hickory or shag bark, per-
simon, pecaun, mulberry, crab apple, paupau,
wild plum, and wild cherry. The vine grows
everywhere. Of the various species of oak,
elm, ash, linden, hackberry, &c. it is unneces-
sary to speak. Where forests abound, the
trees are tall and majestic. In the prairie
country, the timber is usually found on the
streams, or in detached groves.
In the early settlement of Kentucky there
were found, south of Green river, large tracts,
with stunted scattering trees intermixed with
hazel and brushwood. From this appearance
it was inferred that the soil was of inferior
quality, and these tracts were denominated
^' barrens." Subsequently, it was found that
this land was of prime quality. The term
TO EMIGRANTS. 37
" barrens " is now applied extensively in the
West to the same description of country. It
distinguishes an intermediate grade from forest
and prairie, A common error has prevailed
abroad that our prairie land is wet. Prairie is
a French word signifying meadow, and is ap-
plied to any description of surface, that is des-
titute of timber and brushwood, and clothed
with grass. Wet, dry, level, and undulating,
are terms of description merely, and apply to
prairies in the same sense as they do to forests.
The prairies in summer are clothed with grass,
herbage and flowers, exhibit a delightful pros-
pect, and furnish most abundant and luxuriant
pasturage for stock. Much of the forest land
in the Western Valley produces a fine range
for domestic animals and swine. Thousands
are raised, and the emigrant grows wealthy,
from the bounties of nature, with but little
labor.
Of animals, birds and reptiles, little need be
said. The buffalo was in Illinois the beginning
of the present century. They are not found
now within three hundred miles of Missouri
and Arkansas, and they are fast receding.
Deer are found still in all frontier settlements.
Wolves, foxes, wild cats, raccoons, opossums,
and squirrels are plenty. The brown bear is
still hunted in some parts of the western states.
Col. Crockett was a famous bear hunter in
Western Tennessee. The white bear, moun-
tain sheep, antelope and beaver, are found in
the defiles of the Rocky mountains. The elk
38 PECK S GUIDE
is still found by the hunter contiguous to newly
formed settlements. All the domestic animals
of the United States flourish here.
Nearly all the feathered tribe of the Atlantic
slope are to be found in the Valley. Pelicans,
wild geese, swans, cranes, ducks, paroquets,
wild turkies, prairie hens, &c. are found in dif-
ferent states, especially on the Mississippi.
Reptiles. The rattlesnake, copperhead snake,
moccasin snake, bull snake, and the various
snakes usually found in the Atlantic states are
here. Of the venomous kinds, multitudes are
destroyed by the deer and swine. Chameleons
and scorpions exist in the Lower Valley, and
lizards everywhere. The alligator, an unwieldy
and bulky animal, is found in the rivers and
lakes south of 34° north latitude. He sometimes
destroys calves and pigs, and very rarely, even
young children.
History. — The honor of the discovery of this
country is disputed by the Spanish, English,
and French, It is probable that Sebastian Cabot
sailed along the shores of what was afterwards
called Florida, but a few years after Columbus
discovered America. Spanish authors claim
that Juan Ponce de Leon discovered and named
Florida, in 1512. Narvaez, another Spanish
commander, having obtained a grant of Florida
in 1528, landed four or five hundred men, but
was lost by shipwreck near the mouth of the
Mississippi. Ferdinand de Soto was probably
the first white man who saw the Mississippi river.
He is said to have marched 1000 men from
FOR EMIGRANTS. 39
Florida, through the Chickasaw country, to
the Mississippi, near the mouth of Red river,
where he took sick and died. His men return-
ed. Some writers suppose De Soto travelled
as far north as Kentucky, or the Ohio river.
This is not probable.
The French were the first to explore and
settle the West, and they held jurisdiction over
the country of Illinois for 80 years, when it fell
into the hands of the British upon the conquest
of Canada.
In 1564, Florida was settled by a colony of
Huguenots, under Admiral Coligny, who were
afterwards massacred by the Spaniards, because
they were Protestant heretics.
In 1608, Admiral Champlaine founded Que-
bec, from which French settlements spread
through the Canadas.
About 1670, the notion prevailed amongst
the French that visited Canada, that a western
passage to the Pacific ocean existed. They
learned from the Indians that far in the west
there was a great river; but of its course or
termination they could learn nothing. They
supposed that this river communicated with the
western ocean.
To investigate this question, P. Marquette, a
Jesuit, and Joliet, were appointed by M. Talon,
the Intendant of New France. Marquette was
well acquainted with the Canadas, and had
great influence with the Indian tribes. They
conducted an expedition through the lakes, up
Green bay and Fox river, to the Portage, where
40 peck's guide
it approaches the Wisconsin, to which they
passed, and descended that river to the Missis-
sippi, which they reached the 17th of June,
1673. They found a river much larger and
deeper than it had been represented by the In-
dians. Their regular journal was lost on their
return to Canada; but from the account after-
wards given by Joliet, they found the natives
friendly, and that a tradition existed amongst
them of the residence of a ^' Mon-e-to," or
spirit, near the mouth of the Missouri, which
they could not pass. They turned their course
up the Illinois, and were highly delighted with
the placid stream, and the woodlands and prai-
ries through which it flowed. They were hos-
pitably received and kindly treated by the
Illinois, a numerous nation of Indians who were
destitute of the cruelty of savages. The word
" Illinois," or '' Illini," is said by Hennepin, to
signify a "/»// grown man.'" This nation ap-
pears to have originally possessed the Illinois
country, and also a portion west of the Missis-
sippi. The nation was made up of eight tribes:
— the Miamies, Michigamies, Mascotins, Kas-
kaskias, Kahokias, Peorias, Piankeshaws, and
Tau-mar-wans,
Marquette continued among these Indians
with a view to christianize them; but Joliet
returned to Canada and reported the discove-
ries he had made.
Several years elapsed before any one at-
tempted to follow up the discoveries of Mar-
quette and Joliet. M. de La Salle, a native of
FOR EMIGRANTS. 41
Normandy, but who had resided many years in
Canada, was the first to extend these early dis-
coveries. He was a man of inteUigence, talents,
enterprise, and perseverance. After obtaining
the sanction of the king of France, he set out
on his projected expedition, in 1678, from Fron-
tenac, with Chevalier Fonti, his lieutenant, and
Father Hennepin, a Jesuit missionary, and
thirty or forty men.
He spent about one year in exploring the
country bordering on the lakes, and in select-
ing positions for forts and trading posts, to
secure the Indian trade to the French. After
he had built a fort at Niagara, and fitted out a
small vessel, he sailed through the lakes to
Green bay, then called the '■' Bay of Puants."
From thence he proceeded with his men in
canoes towards the south end of lake Michigan,
and arrived at the mouth of the " river of the
Miamis" in November, 1679. This is thought
to be the Milwaukee in Wisconsin Territory.
Here he built a fort, left eight or ten men, and
passed with the rest of his company across the
country to the waters of the Illinois river, and
descended that river a considerable distance,
when he was stopped for want of supplies.
This was occasioned by the loss of a boat
which had been sent from his post on Green
bay. He was now compelled by necessity to
build a fort, which, on account of the anxiety
of mind he experienced, was called Creve-coeur,
or broken heart.
The position of this fort cannot now be ascer-
42 peck's guide
tained ; but from some appearances, it is thought
to have been near Spring bay, in the northeast
part of Tazewell county.
At this period the Illinois were engaged in a
war with the Iroquois, a numerou^ warlike,
and cruel nation, with whom La walle had
traded, while on the borders of Canada. The
former, according to Indian notions of friend-
ship, expected assistance from the French; but
the interests and safety of La Salle depended
upon terminating this warfare, and to this ob-
ject he directed his strenuous efforts. The
suspicious Illinois construed this into treachery,
which was strengthened by the malicious and
perfidious conduct of some of his own men, and
pronounced upon him the sentence of death.
Immediately he formed and executed the bold
and hazardous project of going alone and un-
armed to the camp of the Illinois, and vindi-
cating his conduct. He declared his inno-
cence of the charges, and demanded the author.
He urged that the war should be terminated,
and that the hostile nations should live in
peace.
The coolness, bravery, and eloquence of La
Salle filled the Indians with astonishment, and
entirely changed their purposes. The calumet
was smoked, presents mutually exchanged, and
a treaty of amity concluded.
The original project of discovery was now
pursued. Father Hennepin started on the 28th
of February, 1680, and having passed down
the Illinois, ascended the Mississippi to the
FOR EMIGRANTS. 43
falls of St. Anthony. Here he was taken pris-
oner, robbed, and carried to the Indian villages,
from which he made his escape, returned to
Canada by the way of the Wisconsin, and
from thence to France, where he published an
account of his travels.
La Salle visited Canada to obtain supplies,
returned to Creve-cceur, and shortly after de-
scended the Illinois, and then the Mississippi,
where he built one or two forts on its banks,
and took possession of the country in the name
of the king of France, and in honor of him
called it Louisiana.
One of these forts is thought to have been
built on the west side of the river, between St.
Louis and Carondalet.
After descending the Mississippi to its mouth,
he returned to the Illinois, and on his way back
left some of his companions to occupy the
country. This is supposed to have been the
commencement of the villages of Kaskaskia
and Cahokia,in 1683. La Salle went to France,
fitted out an expedition to form a colony at the
mouth of the Mississippi, sailed to the gulf of
Mexico, but not being able to find the mouths
of that river, he commenced an overland journey
to his fort on the Illinois. On this journey he
was basely assassinated by two of his own men.*
* La Salle appears to have discovered the Bay of St.
Bernard, and formed a settlement on the western side of
the Colorado, in 1685. — See J. Q. Adams's Correspon-
dence with Don Onis. Pub. Doc. first session I5th Con-
gressy 1818.
44 peck's guide
After the death of La Salle, no attempts to
discover the mouth of the Mississippi were
made till about 1699, but the settlements in the
Illinois country were gradually increased by
emigrants from Canada.
In 1712, the king of France, by letters pa-
tent, gave the whole country of Louisiana to
M, Crosat, with the commerce of the country,
with the profits of all the mines, reserving for
his own use one fifth of the gold and silver.
After expending large sums in digging and ex-
ploring for the precious metals without success,
Crosat gave up his privilege to the king, in
1717. Soon after, the colony was granted to
the Mississippi company, projected by Mr. Law,
which took possession of Louisiana, and ap-
pointed M. Bienville governor. In 1719, La
Harpe commanded a fort with French troops,
not far from the mouth of the Missouri river.
Shortly after, several forts were built within
the present limits of Illinois, of which fort
Chartres was the most considerable. By these
means a chain of communication was formed
from Canada to the mouth of the Mississippi.
In 1699, M. Ibberville arrived in the gulf
of Mexico with two frigates, and in March
ascended the river in a felucca one hundred
leagues, and returned by the bayou or outlet
that bears his name, through lake Ponchartrain
to the gulf He planted his colony at Biloxi,
a healthy but steril spot between the Mobile
and Mississippi rivers, and built a fortification.
During several succeeding years much explor-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 45
ing was done, and considerable trade carried
on with the Indians for peltries, yet these ex-
peditions were a source of much expense to
France.
In January, 1702, the colony at Mobile was
planted; several other settlements were soon
after formed. The Catholics also commenced
several missions amongst the Indians. Diffi-
culties frequently occurred with their Spanish
neig'hbors in Florida and Mexico.
M. Ibberville died in 1706, and M. Bienville
succeeded him in the government of Louisiana
for many years. The city of New Orleans was
founded, during his administration, in 1719. It
is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi,
one hundred and five miles from its mouth.
From 1723 to 1730, the French had extermin-
ating wars with the Natchez, a powerful nation
of Indians. They had killed 700 French in
1723, and about 1730 the French exterminated
the nation. Various wars took place subse-
quently with the Spanish and English. But
over most of the Indians along the Mississippi,
these French colonists gained extraordinary
influence. — During this period emigrants con-
tinued to arrive from France, so that the colo-
nists rapidly increased in numbers.
The Mississippi land scheme, or ^' bubble "
as it was called, originated with the celebrated
John Law in 1717, which soon burst and spread
ruin throughout the monied interests of France.
The amount of stock created, was said to equal
310,000,000 of dollars. The whole proved an
2*
m PECK S GUIDE
entire failure, but it served to increase greatly
the population of Louisiana, so that from 1736,
the colonies in the Lower Valley prospered.
In 1754, the war commenced between France
and England relative to the boundaries of the
Canadas. At that period France claimed all
the countries west of the Alleghany moun-
tains, while England on the other hand had
granted to Virginia, Connecticut and other
colonies, charters which extended across the
continent to the " South Sea," as the Pacific
ocean was then called. A grant also was made
by Virginia, and the crown of Great Britain, of
600,000 acres to a company called ^' The Ohio
Company." The governor of New France, as
Canada and Louisiana was then called, pro-
tested, erected forts on lake Erie, and at the
present site of Pittsburg, and enlisted the In-
dians against the English and Americans.
Pittsburg was then called Fort du Quesne.
Then followed Braddock's war, as this contest
is called in the west, — the mission of Major
(afterward General) Washington, — -the defeat
of Braddock ; and finally by the memorable vic-
tory of Wolfe at Quebec, and the lesser ones
at Niagara and Ticonderoga, and by victories
of the English fleet on the ocean, the French
were humbled, and at the treaty of Paris, in
1763, surrendered all their claims to the coun-
try east of the Mississippi. Towards the close
of the war, however, France, by a secret treaty,
ceded all the country west of the Mississippi,
and including New Orleans, to Spain, who held
I
FOR EMIGRANTS. 47
possession till 1803, when it was delivered to
the French government under Napoleon, and
by him ceded to the United States for 15,000,000
of dollars.
The English held possession of the military
posts, and exercised jurisdiction over the
country of Illinois, and the adjacent regions,
till 1778, during the revolutionary war; when
by a secret expedition, without direct legisla-
tive sanction, but by a most enterprising,
skilful, and hazardous military manoeuvre, the
posts of Kaskaskia, Cahokia, Fort Chartres
and Vincennes were captured by Gen. George
Rogers Clark, with a small force of volun-
teer Americans, and that portion of the Valley
fell under the jurisdiction of Virginia.
The legislature of Vir<rinia sanctioned the
. . .
expedition of Clark, which the Executive, Pat-
rick Henry and his council, with Thomas
Jefferson, George VV^ythe, and George Mason,
by written instructions, had agreed should be
done, and a county called '' Illinois" was or-
ganized the same year.
In 1784, Virginia, in conjunction with other
states, ceded all claims to the Great West, to the
United States, reserving certain tracts for the
payment of revolutionary claims. This cession
laid the foundation for five new states north-
west of Ohio, when each district should have
60,000 inhabitants, and even a less number, by
consent of Congress. Two restrictions were
peremptorily enjoined, — that each state should
adopt a constitution with a republican form of
48 peck's guide
government, and that slavery or involuntary
servitude, should be forever prohibited.
It is unnecessary here to enter into details
of the settlement of each particular state, —
the incessant attacks from the Indians, — the
border wars that ensued, — the adventures of
Boone and his associates in settling Kentucky,
— the unfortunate campaigns of Harmar and
St. Clair, — the victorious one of Wayne, — or
the reminiscences and events of the war of
1812, and its termination in 1815. Some his-
torical notices of each state may be found in
their proper place.
Prospective increase of Population. For a
long period, in the states of the west, the in-
crease of population was slow, and retarded
by several causes. Difficulties of a formidable
character had to be surmounted. The foot-
steps of the American emigrants were every-
where drenched in blood, shed by infuriated
savage foes, and before 1790 more than 5,000
persons had been murdered, or taken captive
and lost to the settlements. " It has been
estimated, that in the short space of seven
years, from 1783 to 1790, more than fifteen
hundred of the inhabitants of Kentucky were
either massacred or carried away into a cap-
tivity worse than death, by the Indians; and
an equal number from Western Pennsylvania
and Virginia, in the same period, met with a
similar fate. The settlers on the frontiers
were almost constantly, for a period of forty
years, harrassed either by actual attacks of
FOR EMIGRANTS. 49
the savages, or the daily expectation of them.
The tomahawk and the scalping knife, were
the objects of their fears by day and by
night."*
Hence, in suggesting reasons showing why
the population of this Valley must increase in
future in a far greater ratio than in the past,
it will appear:
1. That the most perfect security is now
enjoyed by all emigrants, both for their fami-
lies and property.
By the wise and beneficent arrangement of
government, the Indian tribes have nearly all
removed to the Territory specially allotted for
their occupancy west of Missouri and Arkan-
sas. The grand error committed in past times
in relation to the Indians, and which has been
the source of incalculable evils to both races,
has been the want of definite, fixed and per-
manent lines of demarcation betwixt them. It
will be seen under the proper head, that a
system of measures is now in operation that
will not only preserve peace between the fron-
tier settlements and the Indian tribes, but that
to a great extent, they are becoming initiated
into the habits of civilized life. There is now
no more danger to the population of these
states and territories from Indian depredations,
than to the people of the Atlantic states.
2. The increased facilities of emigration,
and the advantage of sure and certain markets
* Baird.
dO peck's guide
for every species of production, furnishes a
second reason why population will increase in
the western Valley beyond any former period.
Before the purchase of Louisiana, the west-
ern people had no outlet for their produce, and
the chief mode of obtaining every description
of merchandize, — even salt and iron, — was by
the slow and expensive method of transporta-
tion by wagons and pack-horses, across almost
impassible mountains and extremely difficult
roads. Now, every convenience and luxury of
life is carried with comparative ease, to every
town and settlement throughout the Valley, and
every species of produce is sent off in various
directions, to every port on earth if necessary.
And these facilities are multiplying and in-
creasing every hour: Turnpike roads, rail
roads, canals, and steamboat navigation have
already provided such facilities for removing
from the Atlantic to the Western States, that no
family desirous of removing, need hesitate or
make a single inquiry as to facilities of getting
to this country.
3. The facilities of trade and intercourse
between the different sections of the Valley,
are now superior to most countries on earth,
and are increasing every year. And no coun-
try on earth admits of such indefinite improve-
ment either by land or water. More than
twenty thousand miles of actual steamboat
navigation, with several hundred miles of canal
navigation, constructed or commenced, attest
the truth of this statement. The first steam-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 51
boat on the western waters was built at Pitts-
burg in 1811, and not more than seven or eight
had been built, when the writer emigrated to
this country in 1817. At this period, (January
1836,) there are several hundred boats on the
western waters, and some of the largest size.
In 1817, about twenty barges, averaging about
one hundred tons each, performed the whole
commercial business of transporting merchan-
dize from New Orleans to Louisville and
Cincinnati. Each performed one trip, going
and returning within the year. About 150
keel boats performed the business on the Up-
per Ohio to Pittsburg. These averaged about
30 tons each, and were employed one month
in making the voyage from Louisville to Pitts-
burg. Three days, or three days and a half
is now the usual time occupied by the steam
packets between the two places, and from
seven to twelve days between Louisville and
New Orleans. Four days is the time of pass-
ing from the former place to St. Louis.
4, A fourth reason why population will in-
crease in future in a greater ratio than the
past is derived from the increase of population
in the Atlantic states, and the greater desire ^
for removal to the west. At the close of the
revolutionary war the population of the whole
Union but little exceeded two millions. Vast
tracts of wilderness then existed in the old
states, which have since been subdued, and
from whence thousands of enterprising citizens
are pressing their way into the Great Valley.
52 peck's guide
Two thirds of the territory of New York,
large portions of New Hampshire, Vermont
and Maine, an extensive district in middle
Pennsylvania, to say nothing of wide regions
in the southern states, were comprised in this
wilderness. These extensive regions have
become populous, and are sending out vast
numbers of emigrants to the west. Europe is
in commotion, and the emigration to North
America, in 1832, reached 200,000, a due
proportion of which settle in the Western
Valley.
5. A fifth reason will be founded upon the
immense amount of land for the occupancy of
an indefinite number of emigrants, much of
which will not cost the purchaser over one dol-
lar and iwenty-Jive cents per acre. Without
giving the extravagant estimates that have
been made by many writers of the wide and
uninhabitable desert between the Indian Ter-
ritory west of Missouri and Arkansas, and the
Rocky mountains, nor swampy and frozen
regions at the heads of the Mississippi river,
and around lake Superior, I will merely exhibit
the amount of lands admitting of immediate
settlement and cultivation, within the boundaries
of the new States and organized Territories.
According to the report of the Secretary of
the Treasury up to the 30th day of September,
1831, the estimated amount of unsold lands, on
which the foreign and Indian titles had been
extinguished, within the limits of the new States
and Territories, was 227,293,884 acres; — and
FOR EMIGRANTS. 53
that the Indian title remained on 113,577,869
acres within the same limits.* The Commis-
sioner of the General Land Office in Decem-
ber, 1827, estimated the public domain, beyond
the boundaries of the new States and Territo-
ries, to be 750 millions of acres. Much of this
however, is uninhabitable.
According to the Report of 1831, there had
been granted to Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and
Alabama for internal Improvements, 2,187,665
acres; — for Colleges, Academies and Univer-
sities in the new States and Territories,
508,009; — for education, being the thirty-sixth
part of the pubhc lands appropriated to com-
mon schools, 7,952,538 acres; — and for seats
of government to some of the new States and
Territories, 21,589 acres. Up to January,
1826, there had been sold, from the commence-
ment of the land system, only 19,239,412 acres.
Since that period to the close of 1835, there
have been sold, about 33 millions of acres,
making in all sold, a little more than 52 millions.
This statement includes Alabama and Florida,
which we have not considered as strictly within
the Valley. After a hasty and somewhat im-
perfect estimate of the public lands that are
now in market, or will be brought into market
within a few years, within the limits of Ohio,
Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Mississippi, Louis-
iana, Arkansas, Michigan, and the Territory
* See Mr. Clay's Report on the Public Lands, April 26,
1832, U. S. Papers.
3
54
of Wisconsin, the amount may be put at 130
millions of acres. This amount admits of im-
mediate settlement and cultivation, and much
of it may be put under cultivation without the
immense labor of clearing and subduing forest
lands.
The comparison between the amount of sales
of public lands within the last ten years, and
the preceding forty years, shows that emigration
to the West is increasing at a ratio beyond
what is ordinarily supposed, and that the next
ten years will find a majority of the population
of the United States within this Great Valley.
Sales of land from 1786 to 1826, (40 years) 19,^39,412 acres.
" " from 1826 to 1835, (10 years) 33,000,000 acres.
Three millions of families may find farms in
the West.
The extensive prairie lands of Illinois and
Missouri present no obstacle to the settlement
of the country. Already, prairies for many
miles in extent have been turned into farms.
6. A sixth reason why the increase of the
future population of the Valley will greatly
exceed the past, is derived from the increased
confidence of the community in the general
health of the country. The most unreasonable
notions have prevailed abroad relative to the
health of the western states. All new settle-
ments are more or less unfavorable to health,
which, when cultivated and settled become
healthy. As a separate chapter will be devoted
to this subject, I only advert to the fact now of
the increased confidence of the people in the
FOR EMIGRANTS. 55
Atlantic States, in the salubrity of our western
climate, which already has tended to increase
emigration; but which, from facts becoming
more generally known, will operate to a much
greater extent in future.
7. I will only add that there is already a ,
great amount of intelligence, and of excellent'''^
society in all the settled portions of the West-
ern Valley.
^^The idea is no longer entertained by East-
ern people, that going to the West, or the
^ Backwoods,' as it was formerly called, is to
remove to a heathen land, to a land of ignor-
ance and barbarism, where the people do
nothing but rob, and fight, and gouge! Some
parts of the West have obtained this character,
but most undeservedly, from the jPearojis, the
[Basil] Halls, the Trollopes, and other ignorant
and insolent travellers from England, who,
because they were not allowed to insult and
outrage as they pleased, with Parthian spirit,
hurled back upon us their poisoned javelins
and darts as they left us. There is indeed
much destitution of moral influence and means
of instruction in many, very many, neighbor-
hoods of the West. But there is in all the
principal towns a state of society, with which
the most refined, I was going to say the most
fastidious, of the eastern cities need not be
ashamed to mingle." — Baird.
The eastern emigrant will find, that whole-
some legislation, and much of the influence of
religion are enjoyed in the Valley of the Mis-
56
sissippi, extending to him all he can ask in the
enjoyment of his rights, and the protection of
his property.
Common School systems have been com-
menced in some of the states, — others are
following their example, and the subject of
general education is receiving increasing
attention every year. Colleges and other
literary institutions are planted, and religious
institutions and means of religious instruction
are rapidly increasing. Noble and successful
efforts are making by the Bible, Missionary,
Tract, Sabbath School, Temperance, and other
Societies in the West. Great and rapid
changes are taking place, if not to the extent
we desire, yet corresponding in a degree
with the gigantic march of emigration and
population. Many other reasons might be
urged to show that its prospective increase of
population will vastly exceed the ratio of its
retrospective increase, but these are sufficient.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 57
CHAPTER III.
CLIMATE.
Comparative view of the Climate with the Atlantic States.
Diseases. — Means of preserving health.
Climate, S^c. In a country of such vast extent,
through 15° of latitude, the cHmate must neces-
sarily be various. Louisiana, Mississippi and the
lower half of Arkansas, lie between the latitudes
of 30° and 35°, and correspond with Georgia
and South Carolina. Their difference of cli-
mate is not material. The northern half of
Arkansas, Tennessee and Kentucky, lie west
from North Carolina and the southern portion
of Virginia. The climate varies from those
states only as they are less elevated than the
mountainous parts of Virginia and Carolina.
Hence, the emigrant from the southern Atlan-
tic states, unless he comes from a mountainous
region, will experience no great change of
climate, by emigrating to the Lower Mississip-
pi Valley. Missouri, Illinois, Indiana and
Ohio, He parallel with the northern half of
Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, Pennsylvania,
as
New Jersey, and so much of New York and
New England as lies south of the 42° of north
latitude. But several circumstances combine
to produce variations in the climate.
1. Much of those Atlantic states are hilly,
and in many parts mountainous, some of which
are 2 and 3000 feet above the level of the
ocean. The parallel western states have no
mountains, and are not proportionably hilly.
2. The Atlantic states border on the ocean
on the east, and feel the influence of the cold,
damp winds from the northeast and east. Their
rains are more copious and their snows deeper.
The northern portions of the West, equally
with New York and Vermont, are affected with
the influence of the lakes, though not to the
same extent.
5. " The courses of rivers, by changing in
some degree the direction of the winds, exert
an influence on the climate. In the Atlantic
states, from New England to North Carolina,
the rivers run more or less to the southeast,
and increase the winds which blow from the
northwest, while the great bed of the Mississippi
exerts an equal influence in augmenting the
number and steadiness of the winds which
blow over it from the southwest; and there is
another cause of difference in climate, chiefly
perceptible, first, in the temperature, which,
if no counteracting cause existed, they would
raise in the west considerably above that of
corresponding latitudes in the east; and, sec-
ondly, in the moisture of the two regions,
FOR EMIGRANTS. 59
which is generally greater west than east of
the mountains, when the southwest wind pre-
vails; as, much of the water with which it
comes charged from the Gulf of Mexico, is
deposited before it reaches the country east of
the Alleghanies." — Dr. Drake.
It is an error that our climate is more vari-
able, or the summers materially hotter, than in
a correspondent latitude in the Atlantic states.
" The New Englander and New Yorker north
of the mountains of West Point, should bear
in mind that his migration is not to the West
but South West; and as necessarily brings him
into a warmer climate, as when he seeks the
shores of the Delaware, Potomac, or James'
River."
The settlers from Virginia to Kentucky, or
those from Maryland and Pennsylvania to
Ohio, or further west, have never complained
of hotter summers than they had found in the
land from whence they came.
To institute a comparative estimate of tem-
perature between the east and the west, we
must observe: first, the thermometer; and,
secondly, the flowering of trees, the putting
forth of vegetation, and the ripening of fruits
and grain in correspondent latitudes. This has
not usually been done. Philadelphia and Cin-
cinnati approach nearer to the same parallel, than
any other places where such observations have
been made. Cincinnati, however, is about 50'
south of Philadelphia. The following remarks
60 peck's guide
are from Dr, Daniel Drake of Cincinnati, to
whose pen the west is much indebted.
" From a series of daily observations in Cin-
cinnati or its vicinity, for eight consecutive
years, the mean annual temperature has been
ascertained to be 54 degrees and a quarter. Dr.
Rush states the mean temperature of Philadel-
phia at 52 degrees and a half; Dr. Coxe, from
six years' observations, at 54° and a sixth; and
Mr. Legaux, from seventeen years' observa-
tions, at Spring Mill, a few miles out of the
city, at 53° and a third; the mean term of which
results, 53° and a third, is but the fraction of a
degree lower than the mean heat of Cincinnati,
and actually less than should be afforded by
the difference of latitude.
" A reference to the temperatures of summer
and winter, will give nearly the same results.
From nine years' observations, (three at Spring
Mill, by Mr. Legaux, and six in Philadelphia,
by Dr. Coxe,) the mean summer heat of that
part of Pennsylvania, appears to be 76 degrees
and six-tenths. The mean summer heat at
Cincinnati, for an equal number of years, was
74 degrees and four-tenths. The average
number of days in which the thermometer rose
to 90 degrees or upwards, during the same
period, was fourteen each summer; and the
greatest elevation observed was 98 degrees :
all of which would bear an almost exact com-
parison with similar observations in Pennsylva-
nia. Mr. Legaux states the most intense
FOR EMIGRANTS. 61
cold, at Spring Mill, from 1787 to 1806, to have
been 17 and five-tenths degrees below cipher,
— while within the same period it was 18° at
Cincinnati. The average of extreme cold for
several years, as observed by Mr. Legaux,
was one and eight-tenths of a degree below
cipher: — the same average at Cincinnati, was
two degrees below. From all which we may
conclude, that the banks of the Delaware and
Ohio, in the same latitudes, have nearly the
same temperature."
The state of Ilhnois, extending as it does
through five and a half degrees of latitude, has
considerable variation in its climate. It has
no mountains, and though undulating, it cannot
be called hilly. Its extensive prairies, and
level surface, give greater scope to the winds,
especially in winter. In the southern part of
the State, during the three winter months,
snow frequently falls, but seldom lies long.
In the northern part, the winters are as cold,
but not so much snow falls, as in the same lat-
itudes in the Atlantic States.
The Mississippi at St. Louis is frequently
frozen over, and is crossed on the ice, and
occasionally for several weeks. The hot
season is longer, though not more intense,
than occasionally for a day or two in New
England.
During the years 1817-18-19, the Rev. Mr.
Giddings, at St. Louis, made a series of obser-
vations upon Farenheit's thermometer.
62
Deg. Hund.
Mean temperature for 1817 ... 55 52
Do. do. from the begin-
ning of May, 1818, to the end
of April, 1819 56 98
Mean temperature for 1820 . . . 56 18
The mean of these results is about fifty-six
degrees and a quarter.
The mean temperature of each month during
the above years, is as follows:
Deg. Hund.
January 30 62
February 38 65
March 43 13
April 58 47
May 62 66
June 74 47
July 78 66
August 72 88
September 70 10
October 59 00
November 53 13
December 34 33
The mean temperature of the different sea-
sons is as follows :
Winter, 34.53 — Spring, 54.74 — Summer,
74.34— Autumn, 60.77.
The greatest extremes of heat and cold dur-
ing my residence of eighteen years, in the
vicinity of St. Louis, is as follows:
Greatest heat in July 1820, and July 1833,
100 degrees. Greatest cold January 3d, 1834,
FOR EMIGRANTS. 63
18 degrees beiow zero, — ^February 8th, 1835,
22 degrees below zero.
The foregoing facts will doubtless apply to
about one half of Illinois. This climate also is
subject to sudden changes from heat to cold;
from wet to dry, especially from November to
May. The heat of the summer below the 40° of
latitude is more enervating, and the system
becomes more easily debilitated than in the
bracing atmosphere of a more northerly region.
At Marietta, Ohio, in lat. 39° 25- N. and at
the junction of the Muskingum river with the
Ohio, the mean temperature for 1834, was 52
degrees, four-tenths ; highest in August, 95
degrees, — lowest, January, at zero. Fair days
225,— cloudy days 110.
At Nashville, Tenn. 1834, the mean temper-
ature was 59 degrees and seventy-six-hun-
dredths; maximum 97, minimum 4 above zero.
The summer temperature of this place never
reaches 100°. On January 26th, 1832, 18 de-
grees below zero. February 8th, 1835, 10°
below zero.
The putting forth of vegetation in the spring
'furnishes some evidence of the character of
the climate of any country, though by no means
entirely accurate. Other causes combine to
advance or retard vegetation. A wet or dry
season, or a few days of heat or cold at a par-
ticular crisis, will produce material changes.
The following table is constructed from me-
moranda made at the various dates given, near
the latitude of St. Louis, which is computed at
64 peck's guide
38° 30'. The observations of 1819 were mack
at St. Charles and vicinity, in the state of Mis-
souri. Those of 1820, in St. Louis county, 17
miles N. W. from the city of St. Louis. The
remainder at Rock Spring, Illinois, 18 miles
east from St. Louis. It will be perceived, the
years are not consecutive. In 1826, the writer
was absent to the eastern states, and for 1828,
his notes were too imperfect to answer the
purpose.
In the columns showing the times of the first
snows, and the first and last frosts in the sea-
son, a little explanation may be necessary. A
'' light " snow means merely enough to whiten
the earth, and which usually disappears in a
few hours.
Many of the frosts recorded ^^ light " were
not severe enough to kill ordinary vegetation.
FOR EMIGRANTS.
65
►«i
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1827
1829
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66 peck's guide
These observations, upon a comparison with
the same parallels of latitude in the eastern
states, show that there is no material difference
of climate between the two sections of our
country, except that produced by local causes,
as mountainous districts, contiguity to the
ocean, &c.
A similar error has existed in relation to
sudden and extreme changes of weather in the
West. People who emigrate to a new country
have their curiosity awakened, and perhaps for
the first time in their lives become quite ob-
serving of such changes. From habitually
observing the weather the impression is pro-
duced on their minds that there is a marked
difference in this climate. Dr. Rush declares
that there is but one steady trait in the charac-
ter of the climate of Pennsylvania- — and that is,
it is uniformly variable, and he asserts that he
has known the thermometer fall 20° in one
hour and a half. March 26-27 , 1 8 1 8 , the ther-
mometer in St. Louis, fell 41° in 30 hours —
from 83° to 42°. I have no record or recollec-
tion of a more sudden change in 18 years. Mr.
Legaux saw it fall in the vicinity of Philadel-
phia, 47° in 24 hours, and Dr. Drake states
that this is five degrees more than any impres-
sion ever observed in Cincinnati, in the same
length of time. Emigrants from New England
and the northern part of New York state, must
not expect to find the same climate in the West,
at 38 or 40 degrees; but let them remove to
the same parallel of latitude in the West, to
FOR EMIGRANTS.
67
Wisconsin, or the northern part of Illinois, and
they will probably find a climate far more uni-
form than the land of their birth.
Prevailing winds modify and affect the cli-
mate of every country. Southwestwardly
winds prevail along the Mississippi Valley.
The following tabular view of observations
made at Cincinnati, by Dr. D. Drake, for six
succeeding years, with so few omissions, that
they amount to 4200, will give further illustra-
tions of this subject. They have been brought
from eight points of the compass.
OBSERVATIONS.
Months . , .
S. E.
s.
s. w.
N. E.
N.
N. W.
E.
w.
CALM.j
January ....
February . . ,
March
6
5
10
2
13
13
16
8
8
11
1
1
1
21
14
10
3
0
0
6
5
5
6
8
4
April
May
June
7
7
9
24
19
23
10
10
12
1
0
5
8
10
7
3
4
2
5
6
3
July
August ....
6
6
1
■I
19
23
11
10
2
1
11
12
4
1
4
6
September . .
October ....
6
9
23
24
9
6
0
1
8
10
2
2
3
4
3
3
November. . ,
9
13
6| 1
10
2
7
5
December. . .
7
11
5 0
15
2
6
9
Total...
87
14
221
106
|14
1 136
16
50
62||
68
FOR EMIGRANTS.
The results of my own observations, made
for twelve years, with the exception of 1826,
and with some irregularity, from travelling in
different parts of Missouri and Ilhnois during
the time, do not vary in any material degree
from the above table, excepting fewer east and
northeast winds.
Dr. Drake has given a table, setting forth
the results of 4268 observations on the state of
the weather at Cincinnati, from which it will
be perceived that of the 365 days in a year,
about 176 will be fair, 105 cloudy, and 84 vari-
able.
Dr. L. C. Beck made similar observations at
St. Louis during the year 1820, which produced
the result of 245 clear days, and cloudy, in-
cluding variable days, 110.
Years.
Clear days.
Cloudy days.
Variable days.
1
180
107
68
2
158
112
91
3
187
78
85
4
152
106
107
5
185
111
68
6
172
112
74
Total 6 years.
1,034
626
493
Mean terms.
172. 33
104. 33
82.16
The following table shows the condition of
the weather in each month of a mean year,
for the above period.
FOR EMIGRANTS.
69
Months.. . .
Clear days.
Cloudy days.
Variable days.
January ....
February , . .
March
9.8
10. 3
13. 5
13. 1
12. 0
9. 1
7.8
6. 5
8. 3
April
May
13. 1
15. 0
10.8
8.5
7. 6
7. 5
June
15.5
5. 0
9.6
July
August ....
September . .
October ....
19. 0
19. 6
19. 5
16. 1
5. 5
4.6
5.3
6. 0
6.0
6.5
6. 1
8. 1
November. . .
9. 5
13. 5
5. 5
December. , .
9.6
14. 1
5.8
There would be some variations from the
foregoing table in a series of observations in
the country bordering upon the Upper Missis-
sippi and Missouri. The weather in the states
of Ohio and Kentucky, is doubtless more or
less affected in autumn by the rains that fall
on the Alleghany mountains, and the rise of
the Ohio and its tributaries. So the weather in
the months of April, May and June in Missouri,
is affected by the spring floods of the Missouri
and Mississippi rivers.
The following table is constructed from a
series of observations, made at the Military-
posts in the We&t, by the Surgeons of the U.
S. Army, for four years:— 1822, 1823, 1824,
and 1825. [See American Almanac for 1834,
p. 81.]
3*
70
PECK S GUIDE
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FOR EMIGRANTS. 71
Diseases, — Means of preserving health, Sfc. Of
the Lower Valley, I shall say but very little on
this subject. Dr. Drake observes, " The dis-
eases of this portion of the Great Valley are
few, and prevail chiefly in summer and autumn.
They are the offspring of the combined action
of intense heat and marsh exhalation." They
are generally remittent and intermittent bilious
fevers. Emigrants most generally undergo a
seasoning, or become acclimated. Many per-
sons, however, from the northern and middle
states, and from Europe, enjoy health. In
sickly situations these fevers are apt to return,
and often prove fatal. They frequently en-
feeble the constitution, and produce chronic
inflammation of the liver, enlargement of the
spleen, or terminate in jaundice or dropsy, and
disorder the digestive organs. W^hen persons
find themselves subject to repeated attacks, the
only safe resource is an annual migration to
a more northern climate during the summer.
Many famihes from New Orleans, and other
exposed situations, retire to the pine barrens
of Louisiana, in the hot and sickly season,
where limpid streams, flowing over a pebbly
bed, and a terebinthine atmosphere are enjoy-
ed. Eight months of the year, are pleasant and
healthy in the Lower Mississippi Valley.
The advice of Dr. Drake is, that '' Those
who migrate from a colder climate to the
southern Mississippi states, should observe the
following directions: First — To arrive there in
autumn, instead of spring or summer. Second
72 peck's guide
— If practicable, to spend the hottest part
the first two or three years, in a higher latitude.
Third — To select the healthiest situations.
Fourth — To live temperately. Fifth — To pre
serve a regular habit. Lastly — To avoid the
heat of the sun from 10 in the morning till 4
in the afternoon, and above all the night air.
By a strict attention to these rules, many would
escape the diseases of the climate, who annually
sink under its baleful influence."
Those states and territories to v/hich this
work is intended more immediately as a Guide,
do not differ very materially in salubrity. The
same general features are found in each.
There is but little diversity in climate, — their
geological and physical structure coincide, and
the experience of years shows that there is no
great difference. Where autumnal fevers are
common they are usually of similar character.
The same causes for disease exist in Ohio as
in Missouri, in Michigan as in Illinois, in Ken-
tucky and Tennessee as in Indiana. All these
states are much more infested with the mala-
dies which depend on variations of temperature,
than the states farther south. All have locali-
ties where intermittents and agues aie found,
and all possess extensive districts of country
where health is enjoyed by a very large pro-
portion of emigrants. There is some differ-
ence between a heavily timbered and a prairie
country, in favor of the latter; other circum-
stances being equal. Changes favorable to
continued health are produced by the settle-
1
IS. |l
FOR EMIGRANTS. 73
ment and cultivation of any particular portion
of country. Of one fact I have long since
satisfied my mind, that ordinary fevers are not
caused by the use of the water of the West.
Exceptions may be made in some few cases,
where a vein of water is impregnated with some
deleterious mineral substance. The use of a.
well, dug in the vicinity of a coal bed in Illinois,
was supposed to have caused sickness in a
family for two seasons. Any offensive property
in water is readily detected by the taste. Cool,
refreshing water is a great preservative of
health. It is common for families, (who are
too indifferent to their comfort to dig a well,)
to use the tepid, muddy water of the small
streams in the frontier states, during the sum-
mer, or to dig a shallow well and wall it with
timber, which soon imparts an offensive taste
to the water. Water of excellent quality may
be found in springs, or by digging from 20 to
30 feet, throughout the western states. Most
of the water thus obtained is hard water, from
its limestone qualities, but it is most unques-
tionably healthy. Those persons who emigrate
from a region of sandstone, or primitive rock,
where water is soft, will find our limestone
water to produce a slight affection of the bow-
els, which will prove more advantageous to
health than otherwise, and which will last but
a few weeks. Whenever disease prevails in
the western states, it may generally be attribu-
ted to one or more of the following causes.
1st. Variations of the temperature. This cause,
T4 peck's guide
we have already shown, exists to as great ex-
tent in the same latitude east of the mountains.
2nd. The rapid decomposition of vegetable mat-
ter. In all our rich lands, there are vast quan-
tities of vegetable matter mixed with the soil,
or spread over the surface. Extreme hot
weather, following especially a season of much
rain, before the middle of July, will produce
sickness. If the early part of summer be toler-
ably dry, although a hot season follows, sick-
ness does not generally prevail. The year
1820 was an exception to this rule. It was
throughout, a very dry, hot, sickly year through
the West; indeed, throughout the world. A
wet season, with a moderately cool atmosphere,
has proved healthy.
3d. Marsh exhalations. These, combined with
heat, will always generate fevers. Indeed,
there is probably very little difference in the
miasm thrown off from decomposed vegetable
matter, and that produced from sluggish
streams, standing waters and marshes. These,
in the great Valley, abound with decayed vege-
table matter. Hence, along the streams which
have alluvial bottoms j{sis low lands upon streams
are called in the West,) some of which are an-
nually overflowed, and where the timber and
luxuriant vegetable growth are but partially
subdued, the inhabitants are liable to fevers,
dysenteries and agues. Situations directly un-
der the bluflTs adjacent to the bottom lands, that
lie upon our large rivers, especially when the
vegetation is unsubdued, have proved unhealthy.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 75
So have situations at the heads or in the slope
of the ravines that put down from the bluffs
towards the rivers.
The principal diseases that prevail may be
stated as follows. In the winter, and early in
the spring, severe colds, inflammation of the
lungs and pleurisies are most common. The
genuine hereditary consumption of New-Eng-
land is rare, and families and individuals pre-
disposed to that disease might often be pre-
served by migration to this Valley. Acute
inflammation of the brain, and inflammatory
rheumatism are not unusual at that season.
During the summer and autumn, cholera in-
fantum with children in large towns, diarrhoea,
cholera morbus, dysentery, intermittent and
remittent bilious fevers prevail. The inter-
mittent assumes various forms, and has acquir-
ed several names amongst the country people,
where it prevails more generally than in large
towns. It is called the ^^ chill and fever," —
"ague," — "dumb ague," &.C., according to
its form of attack.
The remittent fever is the most formidable of
our autumnal diseases, especially when of a
highly bilious type. In most seasons, these
diseases are easily managed, and yield to a
dose or two of medicine. Sore eyes, especially
in autumn, is a common complaint in the fron-
tier settlements, and when neglected or im-
properly managed, have terminated in total
blindness.
The " milk sickness," as it is called, occa-
76 peck's guide
casionally prevails in some localities, some
particulars of which will be found in another
place. There is a disease that afflicts many
frontier people, called by some " sick stomach,"
by others, " water brash," from its symptoms
of sudden nausea, with vomiting, especially af-
ter meals.
In 1832, the cholera made its appearance in
the West. In many places, its first approach
was attended with great mortality, but its sec-
ond visit to a place has been in a milder and
more manageable form. It has visited various
parts of the West on each returning season
since, especially along the great rivers and
about the steamboats. It appears to have
changed somewhat the characteristics of our
western diseases, and will probably become
a modified and manageable disease. Since its
visit, our fevers are more congestive, less bile
is secreted, and the stomach more affected.
The subject will doubtless be noticed by our
physicians, and observations made, how far
this new disease will become assimilated to the
ordinary diseases of the country.
We are satisfied, after along course of ob-
servations, much travelling, and conversing
with many hundreds of families with the view
of arriving at correct conclusions on these
subjects, that there is no such operation as that of
emi2;rants undergoing a seasoning, or becoming
acclimated, in the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illi-
nois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Michi-
gan, or the Wisconsin Territory. JS'or does it
FOR EMIGRANTS. 77
inake the least difference from what part of the
United States J or Europe ^ theij come, nor whether
theij arrive here in the spring or autumn. There
is an erroneous notion prevailing in some of
the Atlantic states on this subject, that should
be corrected. When sickness prevails, there is
just as much, and it is equally severe, amongst
the old settlers, those born in the country, or
who migrate from the Carolinas or Georoia,
as those who come from the northern states.
Families are just as liable to sickness, and are
as often attacked for the first time, after resi-
ding several years in the country, as at any
other time. A large proportion of the families
and individuals, who remove from New Eng-
land to the various parts of the Valley, north
of the 37th degree of latitude have no sickness
the first year.
The impression has formerly existed abroad,
that Illinois is less healthy than other western
states. This is entirely erroneous. As in all
countries, there are some localities, where the
causes that produce sickness exist more than
in others. This is not the fact with Illinois in
general.
That this state is as healthy as any other
western state, can be abundantly supported by
facts. Let a candid observer compare the
health of the early settlers of New England,
with that of the early settlers of the West, and
he will find the scale to preponderate in favor
of the latter. Unless there is some strange
fatality attending Illinois, its population must
4
78 peck's guide
be more healthy than the early settlers of a
timbered region. But in no period of its his-
tory have sickness and death triumphed, in any
respect equal to what they did two or three
years since, in the lake country of New York.
The year 1811, is recorded in the memoirs of
the early settlers, as a season of unusual sickness
near the banks of the Mississippi and Missouri
rivers. The latter river rose to an unusual
height in June, the waters of the small creeks
were backed up, and a large surface of luxuriant
vegetation was covered and deadened. This
was succeeded by hot and dry weather. Bil-
ious and intermittent fevers prevailed exten-
sively. The seasons of 1819, '20, and '21 were
usually sickly in Illinois and Missouri. Emi-
grants, in shoals, had spread over a wide range
of country within a year or two preceding.
Multitudes were placed under circumstances
the most unfavorable to the preservation of
health, in new and open cabins of green tim-
ber, often using the stagnant water of creeks
and ponds, with a luxuriant vegetation around
them undergoing decomposition, and all the
other evils attendant on the settlement of a
new and unbroken country. Under such cir-
cumstances, can it be surprising that many were
sick, and that many died? The summer of
1820 was the hottest and driest ever known in
this country. For weeks in succession, the
thermometer, in the shade at St. Louis, was up
to 96° for hours in the day. Not a cloud came
over the sun, to afford a partial relief from its
FOR EMIGRANTS. 79
burning influence. The fevers of that season
were unusually rapid, malignant, and unman-
ageable. Almost every mark of the yellow
fever, as laid down in the books, was exhibited
in many cases, both in town and country.
The bilious fever put on its most malignant
type. Black, foetid matter was discharged from
the stomach, and by stools. The writer and
all his family suffered severely that season.
He lived seventeen miles from St. Louis, on
the road to St. Charles in Missouri, on a farm.
The settlement had been called healthy. The
Missouri bottom was one mile distant. Three
miles west southwest, was the Creve-cceur
lake, a body of water several miles in length
and half a mile in width, connected by an out-
let with the Missouri river. The water of this
lake was entirely stagnant, covered with a
thick scum, and sent forth a noisome smell.
Fish in it died. My oldest son, a robust youth
of ten years of age, and my brother-in-law, a
hale and stout young man, sickened and died
the first week in October. I was attacked the
5th day of July, came as near dying as a per-
son could and recover. All my children were
sick. While convalescent, in September, I
took a long journey to Cape Girardeau country,
120 miles south, and back through the lead
mine country to the Missouri river, 60 miles
west of St. Louis, and in all the route found
that sickness had prevailed to the same extent.
At Vincennes and other parts of Indiana,
disease triumphed. The country around Vin-
80 peck's guide
cennes^ on the east side of the Wabash, is a
sandy plain. A gentleman who escaped the
ravages of fever in that place, and who was
much engaged in nursing the sick and consol-
ing the dying, stated to me that nothing was so
disheartening as the cloudless sky and burning
sun that continued unchanged for weeks in
succession. Mortality prevailed to a great ex-
tent along the banks of the Wabash. Hindos-
tan, a town on the east fork of White river,
38 miles from Vincennes on the road to Louis-
ville, was begun the preceding year. Seventy
or eighty families had crowded in at the com-
mencement of the year 1820. The heavy
timber of poplar, (whitewood) oak and beech,
had been cut down, the brush burned, and the
logs left on the ground. By June the bark
was loosened, an intolerable stench proceeded
from the timber, — sickness followed, and about
two thirds of the population died! And yet, to
look about the place, there is no local cause
that would indicate sickness. In the summer
of 1821, sickness prevailed very extensively,
but in a much milder form. Its type was in-
termittent, and usually yielded to ordinary
remedies. During that year the number of
deaths in St. Louis was 136 — the population
5000. At least one third of that number were
strangers and transient persons, who either
arrived sick, or were taken sick within two or
three days after arrival. St. Louis had then
no police regulations — the streets were filthy in
the extreme — and the population were crowded
FOR EMIGRANTS. 81
into every hole and corner. This was the
most sickly and dying season St. Louis ever
knew, except when the cholera prevailed in
October, 1832.
The same years (1820 — 21) were noted for
unusual sickness throughout the United States,
and indeed the whole world. The bilious fever
prevailed in the hilly and mountainous districts
of Virginia and Pennsylvania, and even among
the Green Mountains of Vermont.
Very little general sickness (except cholera
in 1832— '33) prevailed in 1830, '31, '32, or
'33. In 1834, congestive fever, and dysentery,
with some of the symptoms of cholera, existed
in many places in the West, though not exten-
sively fatal. In the month of June, were fre-
quent sudden showers in Illinois and Missouri,
with intervals of extreme heat. July and
August very hot and dry. The disease began
early in July and continued till September.
The year 1835, was the most sickly year, for
common intermittents, which prevailed more
amongst the old settlers, than the newhj arrived emi-
grants. In Illinois , and generally throughout the
West, below the fortieth degree of latitude, it
was sickly, though not fatal. Early in the spring,
till the month of May, it was unusually dry,
and vegetation was two weeks later than usual.
May and a part of June were very wet, followed
by a few days of extremely hot weather.
Vegetation grew with great luxuriance. Newly
ploughed ground sent forth a noxious effluvium,
with a most offensive odour, and after a few
8^ peck's guide
days would be covered with a greenish coat,
like the scum on stagnant water. Town situ-
ations, even along the banks of river, were
comparatively healthy.
In case of sickness, physicians are to be
found in almost every county, and every sea-
son adds to their number. Charges are some-
what higher than in the northern states. Many
families keep a few simple articles of medicine,
and administer for themselves. Calomel is a
specific; and is taken by multitudes without
hesitation, or fear of danger. From fifteen to
twenty grains are an ordinary dose for a cathar-
tic. Whenever nausea of the stomach, pains
in the limbs, and yawning, or a chill, indicate
the approach of disease, a dose of calomel is
taken at night, in a little apple honey, or other
suitable substance, and followed up in the
morning with a dose of castor oil, or salts, to
produce a brisk purge. Sometimes an emetic
is preferred. Either a cathartic or an emetic
will leave the system under some debility. The
mistake frequently made is, in not following up
the evacuating medicine with tonics. This
should be done invariably, unless the paroxysm
of fever has commenced. A few doses of sul-
phate of quinine or Peruvian bark in its crude
state, will restore the system to its natural tone.
To prevent an attack of fever, medicine should
be taken on the very first symptoms of a dis-
eased stomach; it should not be tampered with,
but taken in sufficient doses to relieve the sys-
tem from morbid effects, and then followed up
FOR EMIGRANTS. 83
by tonicSj to restore its vigor and prevent re-
lapse.
New comers will find it advantageous for pro-
tecting themselves from the damp atmosphere at
night, to provide close dwellings; yet when the
air is clear, to leave open doors and windows
at night for free circulation, but not to sleep
directly in the current of air; and invariably
to wear thin clothing in the heat of the day, and
put on thicker garments at night, and in wet
and cloudy weather.
I have observed that those families are seldom
sick who live in comfortable houses, with tight
floors, and well ventilated rooms ; and who, upon
change of weather, and especially in time of
rains, make a little fire in the chimney, although
the thermometer might not indicate the neces-
sity.
In fine, I am prepared to give my opinion,
decidedly^ in favor of the general health of this
country and climate. I would not certainly be
answerable for all the bad locations, the impru-
dences, and whims of all classes of emigrants,
which may operate unfavorably to health. I
only speak for myself and family. I decidedly
prefer this climate, with all its miasm, to New-
England, with its northeast winds, and damp,
^' raw" and pulmonary atmosphere. Vv^e very
seldom have fogs in Illinois and Missouri. My
memoranda, kept with considerable accuracy,
for twelve years, give not more than half a
dozen foggy mornings in a year.
The following comparisons between St. Louis
84 peck's guide
and several eastern cities, will afford some evi-
dence of the opinions expressed above. I have
remarked already, that 1821, was more sickly
in St. Louis, than any preceding year, and
deaths were more numerous in proportion to
the population. Some cases of fever were more
malignant in 1820, in that place, but deaths were
more frequent the following season. I solem-
nized the marriage of a young lady of my ac-
quaintance, who was under the age of fourteen
years. In eight days she was a widow. At the
funeral of a gentleman the same season, who
left a widow under twenty years, there were
present thirteen widows, all under twenty-four
years of age, and all had lost their companions
that season. Young men were victims more
than any other age or condition. And yet I
am prepared to show, that St. Louis, that sum-
mer, was not more sickly than several eastern
cities were in 1820 and 1823,
The population of St, Louis in 1821, varied
but little from 5,000 ; the number of deaths
during that year was one hundred and thirty-
six. This account was taken by the Rev, Sal-
mon Giddings, who was particular in collecting
the facts. The proportion of the deaths to the
population was one to thirty-five.
In 1820, Boston contained a population of
43,893, — number of deaths 1,103; proportion
one to thirty-nine and three fourths.
New-York the same year contained a popu-
lation of 123^00,— deaths 3,515; being a pro-
portion of one to a fraction less than thirty-five.
In Philadelphia, the population then was
TO EMIGRANTS. 85
108,000, — deaths 3,374; being a proportion of
one to thirty-two.
Baltimore had a population of 62,000, —
deaths 1,625; being a proportion of one to
thirty-eight.
The aggregate population of these four cities
in 1820, was 336,893 ; the aggregate number
of deaths, 9,617; the proportion of one to thir-
ty-five, the same as that of St. Louis.
In 1823.
Boston. Population estimated at 45,000 ;
number of deaths by official returns, 1,154;
the proportion of one to thirty-nine.
JYeiv-York. Population about 130,000,—
deaths 3,444; proportion of one to thirty-seven
and two thirds.
Philadelphia. Population about 120,000, —
deaths 4,600, proportion of one to tv/enty-six.
[This was an uncommonly sickly season in
Philadelphia.]
Baltimore. Population estimated at 65,000;
deaths were 2,108; proportion of one to thirty
and two thirds.
I have thus selected the mortality of St. Louis
during the most sickly season since my resi-
dence in this country, and compared it with
the bills of mortality of four eastern cities for
two years, those of 1820 and 1823, and the
result is favorable to the health of St. Louis,
and by consequence, to the adjoining States,
For ten years past, there has been no general
86 peck's guide
sickness in St. Louis, during the summer and
autumnal months, excepting the cholera in
1832.
Some parts of Indiana and Ohio are unques-
tionably more subject to bilious attacks than
Illinois. The reason is obvious. Much of
that region is heavily timbered, and, upon cut-
ting it away in spots, and letting in the rays of
the sun upon vegetable matter undergoing de-
composition, miasmata are generated. These
regions will become comparatively healthy,
when put under general cultivation.
The story is told, that the late emperor of
France lay encamped with one of his armies
near a place reputed unhealthy, when one of
his officers requested a furlough. The reason
being asked, and given, that the place was un-
healthy, and the applicant feared to die an
inglorious death from fever: Napoleon replied,
in his accustomed laconic style, '' Go to your
post; men die everywhere."
If a family emigrate to a new and distant
country, and any of the number sicken and
die, we are apt to indulge in unavailing re-
gret at the removal 5 whereas had the same
afflictive event happened before removal, it
would have been regarded in quite a different
light. Let then, none come to Illinois who do
not expect to be sick and to die, whenever
Divine Providence shall see fit so to order
events.
The 'iuilk sickness is a disease of a singular
character, which prevails in certain places.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 87
It first affects animals, especially cows, and
from them is communicated to the human sys-
tem by eating the milk, or flesh. The symp-
toms of the disease indicate poison; and the
patient is affected nearly in the same way, as
when poisonous ingredients have been received
into the system. Cattle, when attacked by it,
usually die. In many instances it proves mor-
tal in the human system; in others, it yields to
the skill of the physician. Much speculation
has been had upon its cause, which is still
unknown. The prevailing idea is, that it is
caused by some poisonous substance eaten by
the cattle, but whether vegetable or mineral,
remains undetermined. Physicians and others
have attempted to ascertain the cause of this
disease, but hitherto without success.
It infests only particular spots, or small
districts, and these are soon found out. There
are places in Ohio, Indiana, and the southern
states, where it exists. Its effects are more
frequent in autumn than any other season; and
to guard against it, the people either keep
their cows in a pasture, or refuse to use their
milk. Some have supposed this disease to be
produced by the cattle feeding on the cicuta
virosa, or water hemlock; as a similar disease
once infested the cattle in the north of Europe,
the cause of which was traced out by the
■great naturalist Linnceus; but it is not known
that this species of plant exists amongst the
botanical productions of Missouri and Illi-
nois.
88 ' peck's guide
Anxious to furnish all the information, on
this very important subject, to persons desirous
of emigrating to the West, I will prolong this
chapter by inserting the following:
'' ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS, RECENT SETTLERS,
AND TO THOSE VISITING THE SOUTHERN
COUNTRY.
^' The outlines which have already been
given will afford some information to emigrants
from other sections of the Union, or from
Europe. We will now offer a few cautionary
remarks, particularly intended for such as are
about to settle, or have recently settled in this
section of the United States.
" Of new comers, there are two tolerably
distinct classes: the one comprising farmers,
mechanics, and indeed all those who calculate
on obtaining a subsistence by manual industry;
tfie other is composed of professional men,
tradesmen, and adventurers of every descrip-
tion. Towards the first class our attention is
now directed, premising that throughout a
great portion of the western country, except in
large towns, almost every mechanic is almost
necessarily a farmer; the population being in
but few places sufficiently dense to support that
designation of mechanical employments which
is common in the eastern and middle states.
" For the industrious and temperate of this
class, our country holds forth inducements
which are not generally known or understood.
'' The language of indiscriminate panegyric,
FOR EMIGRANTS. 89
which has been bestowed on its cHmate and
soil, has conveyed Uttle information, and is the
source of many fears and suspicions in the
minds of people at a distance. Other accounts
have described the western country as uniform-
ly sickly; but the habit of exaggeration in its
favor has been most prevalent; neither need
we wonder, when much of the information
communicated, has been afforded by interested
landholders, or speculators, and by travellers,
whose views have been superficial, and whose
journeys have been performed generally, either
on the rivers or by post roads.
" The first inquiry of a substantial farmer,
from one of the old settled states, is mostly, for
good land in the vicinity of a market; and af-
terwards, whether the situation be healthy. It
is true that there are many places in the west-
ern country, affording the qualities expressed
in this description, but they are perhaps all oc-
cupied; and it would be, in several respects,
more advisable for a farmer, possessing even a
considerable sum of money in hand, to inquire
first for a healthy situation, and then good
land.
'■'■ The spirit of improvement throughout the
United States, especially evidenced in canal-
ling, and railroads, will, it is hoped, in a few
years, open modes of communication, which
as yet are wanting, with the markets.
" The same remarks will apply to the poorer
class of emigrants. If they value their own
health, and that of their famihes, the main
90 peck's guide
object of their attention will be to secure, if
possible, a situation remote from the fogs that
hover over the channels of large rivers, which
become partly dry in summer, and from the
neighborhood of swamps, marshes, ponds, and
small lakes.
" Every person, on coming from beyond the
mountains, and especially from the eastern
States, or Europe, will have to undergo some
degree of change in his constitution, before it
becomes naturalized to the climate; and all
who move from a cold to a considerably warm-
er part of the western country will experience
the same alteration; it will, therefore, be wis-
dom for the individual brought up in a more
rigorous climate, that he seek a situation
where the circulation of the air is unimpeded
and free, and that he avoid those flat and
marshy districts, which have been already
described.
" Those who settle in new countries are
almost universally exposed to inconveniences
which have an unfavorable influence on health.
They are seldom able for a length of time to
erect comfortable places of residence; and in-
deed, many postpone this important object of
attention, even after their circumstances will
permit them to build comfortable dwelling
houses.
'' Wool is mostly a scarce article in new
settlements, so that cotton and linen garments
are too frequently worn in winter. There is
another circumstance, which no doubt has an
FOR EMIGRANTS. 91
unfavorable influence on health, especially
among the poorer class: it is the want, during
the summer season particularly, of substantial
food. This is sometimes owing to indolence
or improvidence; but perhaps oftener, to the"
circumstances in which a few families are
placed, at a distance from any established or
opulent settlement.
" Erroneous views are too generally enter-
tained in relation to hardening the human sys-
tem; and the analogies drawn from savage life,
are altogether inconclusive. The manners of
the North American Indians are essentially
different from those of the whites. It is true,
there is a portion of the latter, especially in
Illinois and Missouri, who from infancy are
educated almost in the habits of the aborigines.
^' We have frequently heard the example of
savages referred to, as an argument in favor
of attempting to strengthen the constitution by
exposure.* There is plausibility in this; but
* Uniform exposure to the weather is favorable to
health. I can affirm this from long experience and obser-
vation. Our hunters, and surveyors, who uniformly spend
their time for weeks in the woods and prairies, who wade
in the water, swim creeks, are drenched in the rains and
dews, and sleep in the open air or a camp at night, very
rarely are attacked with fevers. I have known repeated
instances of young men, brought up delicately in the east-
ern cities, accustomed, as clerks, to a sedentary life, with
feeble constitutions, — I have known such repeatedly to
enter upon the business of surveying the public lands, or
in the hunting and trapping business, be absent for months,
and return with robust health. It is a common thing for a
92 peck's guide
might not the example of the negroes in the
lower parts of South Carolina and Georgia, be
also quoted as evidencing the propriety of liv-
ing on corn meal and sweet potatoes, and
working every day in the water of a rice field
during the sickly season? They are generally
more healthy than the whites who own them,
and who reside on the plantations in the sum-
mer. The civilized man may turn to savage
life perhaps with safety, as regards health; but
then he must plunge with the Indian into the
depths of the forest, and observe consistency
frontier man, whose health is on the decline, and especially
when uidications of pulmonary affection appear, to engage
in a hunting expedition to renovate his health. I state
these facts, and leave it to the medical faculty to explain
the why and ivherefore. One circumstance may deserve
attention. All these nien, as do the Indians, sleep ivith
their feet towards the fire at night. And it is a connnon
notion with this class, that if the feet are kept hot through
the night, however cold the atmosphere, or however much
exposed the rest of the body, no evil consequences will
ensue. I have passed many a night in this position, after
fatiguing rides of thirty or forty niiles in the day on our
extreme frontiers, and through rains, and never experienced
any inconvenience to health, if I could get a pallet on the
cabin floor, and my feet to the fire.
Those who are exposed to these hardships but occasion-
ally, when compelled by necessity, and who endeavor to pro-
tect themselves at all other times, usually suffer after such
exposure.
I have observed that children, when left to run in the
open air and weather, who go barefoot, and oftentimes
with a single light garment around them, who sleep on the
floor at night, are more healthy than those who are pro-
tected.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 93
in all his habits. These pages are not written,
however, tor such as are disposed to consider
themselves beyond the pale of civilized society;
but lor the reflecting part of the community,
who can estimate the advantages to be derived
from a prudent care of health.
"Much disease, especially in the more re-
cently settled parts of this country, is conse-
quent to neglecting simple and comfortable
precautionary means; sometimes this neglect
is owing to misdirected industry, and at others
to laziness or evil habits.
" To have a dry house, if it be a log one,
with the openings between the logs well filled
up, so that it may be kept warm in winter; to
fill up all the holes in its vicinity which may
contain stagnant water; to have a good clean
spring or well, sufficient clothing, and a rea-
sonable supply of provisions, should be the first
object of a settler's attention: but frequently a
little, wet, smoky cabin or hovel is erected,
with the floor scarcely separated from the
ground, and admitting the damp and unwhole-
some air. All hands that can work, are im-
pelled, by the father's example, to labor beyond
their strength, and more land is cleared and
planted with corn than is well tended; for over-
exertion, change in the manner of living, and
the influence of other debilitating causes, which
have been mentioned, bring sickness on at least
a part of the family, before the summer is half
over.
"It is unnecessary for even the poorest emi-
4#
94 peck's guide
grant to encounter these causes of distress,
unless seduced by the misrepresentations of
some interested landholder, or by the fantasies
of his own brain, to an unhealthy and desolate
situation, where he can neither help himself,
nor be assisted by others.
" Many persons on moving into the back
woods ^ who have been accustomed to the de-
cencies of life, think it little matter how they
live, because no one sees them. Thus we have
known a family of some .opulence to reside for
years in a cabin unfit for the abode of any hu-
man being, because they could not find time to
build a house; and whenever it rained hard,
the females were necessarily engaged in rolling
the beds from one corner of the room to anoth-
er, in order to save them from the water that
poured in through the roof. This cabin was
intended at first as only a very temporary resi-
dence, and was erected on the edge of a swamp,
for the convenience of being near to a spring.
How unreasonable must such people be, if they
expect health!
" Clothing for winter should be prepared in
summer. It is a common, but very incorrect
practice among many farmers, both wesl?, and
east of the Alleghany mountains, to postpone
wearing winter clothing until the weather has
become extremely cold: this is a fruitful source
of pulmonary diseases, of rheumatisms, and of
fevers.
^' With regard to providing a sufficiency of
nourishing food, no specific directions can be
FOR EMIGRANTS. 95
given, further than to recommend, what is much
neglected — particular attention to a good gar-
den spot; and to remark, that those who devote
undivided attention to cultivating the soil, re-
ceive more uniform supplies of suitable nour-
ishment than the more indolent, who spend a
considerable portion of their time in hunting.
" New settlers are not unfrequentiy troubled
with diseases of the skin, which are often sup-
posed to be the itch: for these eruptions they
generally use repellant external applications;
this plan of treatment is prejudicial.
" The most proper time for the removal of
families to this country from the Atlantic states,
is early in the spring, while the rivers are full;
or if the journey be made by land, as soon as
the roads are sufficiently settled, and the wa-
ters abated.
" Persons unaccustomed to the climate of
the lower Mississippi country, are necessarily
exposed, whilst there in the summer season, to
many causes of disease. It will be advisable
for such to have a prudent care of their health,
and yet, a care distinct from that finical timidity
which renders them liable to early attacks of
sickness.
" There is one important consideration,
which perhaps has been somewhat overlooked
by medical men, who have written on this sub-
ject. Natives of colder and healthier regions,
when exposed in southern and sickly climates,
experience, if they remain any length of time
without evident and violent di.-^ease, an altera-
96 peck's guide
tion in the condition of the liver, and of the
secreted bile itself; when it passes through the
bowels, its color being much darker than usual.
Sometimes, indeed, it appears to be " locked
up in the liver," the stools having an ashen ap-
pearance. This state of the biliary secretion
is frequently accompanied, although the pa-
tient is otherwise apparently in tolerable health,
by a pain over the eye-balls, particularly when
the eyes are roiled upward.
" The proper mode of treatment for such
symptoms is, to take without delay, not less
than twenty grains of calomel, and in eight
hours a wine glass full of castor oil. The tone
of the stomach should not be suffered to sink
too much after the operation of the medicine,
which, if necessary, may be repeated in twen-
ty-four hours. Sulphate of quinine, or other
tonics, w^ith nutritive food, which is easy of di-
gestion, should also be taken in moderate por-
tions at a time.
^' Where diseases are rapid in their progress,
and dangerous, no time is to be lost. The
practice of taking salts and other aperients,
when in exposed situations, and for the pur-
pose of preventing disease, is injurious. It is
sufficient, that the bowels be kept in a natural
and healthy state; for all cathartics, even the
mildest, have a tendency to nauseate the stom-
ach, create debility, and weaken the digestive
faculty. A reduction of tone in the system,
which is always advantageous, will be more
safely effected by using somewhat less than
FOR EMIGRANTS. 97
usual of animal food, and of spirituous, strong
vinous, or fermented liquors. The robust will
derive benefit from losing a little blood.
'^It ought to be well understood, that as we
approximate tropical climates, the doses of
medicine, when taken, should be increased in
quantity, and repeated with less delay than is
admissible in colder countries. Exposure to
the night air is certainly prejudicial; so also is
the intense heat of the sun, in the middle of
the day. Violent exercise should also be
avoided. Bathing daily in water of a comfort-
able temperature, is a very commendable prac-
tice ; and cotton worn next the skin is prefera-
ble to linen.
^' It is impossible to prevent the influence of
an atmosphere pregnant with the causes of dis-
ease; but the operation of those causes may
generally be counteracted by attention to the
rules laid down; and it is no small consolation
to be aware, that on recovery from the first at-
tack, the system is better adapted to meet and
sustain a second of a similar nature. The
reader will understand that we do not allude to
relapses, occurring while the system is enfee-
bled by the consequences of disease."
To the foregoing remarks, I add the follow-
ing, from an address of Judge Hall to the "An-
tiquarian and Historical Society of Illinois,"
December 10, 1827.
"The climate, particularly in reference to
its influence on the human system, presents an-
other subject of investigation. The western
98 peck's guide
country has been considered unhealthy; and
there have been writers, whose disturbed im-
aginations have misled them into a belief that
the whole land was continually exposed to the
most awful visitations of Providence, among
which have been numbered the hurricane, the
pestilence, and the earthquake. If we have
been content to smile at such exaggerations,
while few had leisure to attempt a serious refuta-
tion, and while the facts upon which any deliber-
ate opinion must have been based, had not been
sufficiently tested by experience, the time has
now arrived when it is no longer excusable to
submit in silence to the reproaches of ignor-
ance or malice. It is proper, however, to re-
mark, as well in extenuation of those who have
assailed our country, as in the support of the
confidential denial, which I feel authorized to
make to their assertions, that a vast improve-
ment in the article of health has taken place
within a few years. Diseases are now mild
which were once malignant, and their occur-
rence is annually becoming less frequent. This
happy change affords strong authority for the
belief, that although the maladies which have
heretofore afflicted us, were partly imputable to
the climate, other, and more powerful causes
of disease must have existed, which have van-
ished. We who came to the frontier, while
the axe was still busy in the forest, and when
thousands of the acres which now yield abun-
dance to the farmer, were unreclaimed and
tenantless, have seen the existence of our fel-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 99
low citizens assailed by other than the ordinary
ministers of death. Toil, privation and ex-
posure, have hurried many to the grave; im-
prudence and carelessness of life, have sent
crowds of victims prematurely to the tomb. It
is not to be denied that the margins of our
great streams in general, and many spots in
the vicinity of extensive marshes, are subject
to bihous diseases; but it may be as confidently
asserted, that the interior country is healthy.
Yet the first settlers invariably selected the
rich alluvion lands upon the navigable rivers,
in preference to the scarcely less fertile soil of
the prairies, Ijing in situations less accessible,
and more remote from market. They came to
a wilderness in which houses were not pre-
pared for their reception, nor food, other than
that supplied by nature, provided for their sus-
tenance. They often encamped on the margin
of the river exposed to its chilly atmosphere,
without a tent to shelter, with scarcely a blan-
ket to protect them. Their first habitations
were rude cabins, affording scarcely a shelter
from the rain, and too frail to afford protection
from the burning heat of the noonday sun, or
the chilling effects of the midnight blast. As
their families increased, another and another
cabin was added, as crazy and as cheerless as
the first, until, admonished of the increase of
their own substance, the influx of wealthier
neighbors, and the general improvement of the
country around them, they were allured by
pride to do that to which they never would
100
have been impelled by suffering. The gratui-
tous exposure to the climate, which the back-
woodsman seems rather to court than avoid, is
a subject of common remark. No extremity of
weather confines him to the shelter of his own
roof Whether the object be business or
pleasure, it is pursued with the same composure
amid the shadows of the night, or the howling
of the tempest, as in the most genial season.
Nor is this trait of character confined to woods-
men or to farmers; examples of hardihood are
contagious, and in this country all ranks of
people neglect, or despise the ordinary precau-
tions with respect to health. Judges and law-
yers, merchants, physicians and ministers of
the gospel, set the seasons at defiance in the
pursuit of their respective callings. They
prosecute their journies regardless of weather;
and learn at last to feel little inconvenience
from the exposure, which is silently undermin-
ing their constitutions. Is it extraordinary that
people thus exposed should be attacked by vio-
lent maladies.'' Would it not be more wonder-
ful that such a careless prodigality of life could
pass with impunity.'' These remarks might be
extended; the food of the first settler, consist-
ing chiefly of fresh meat without vegetables
and often without salt; the common use of
ardent spirits, the want of medical aid, by
which diseases, at first simple, being neglected
become dangerous; and other evils peculiar to
a new country, might be noticed as fruitful
sources of disease; but I have already dwelt
FOR EMIGRANTS. lOl
sufficiently on this subject. That this country
is decidedly healthy, I feel no hesitation in de-
claring; but neither argument nor naked asser-
tions will convince the world. Let us collect
such facts as amount to evidence, and establish
the truth by undeniable demonstration."
102 peck's guide
CHAPTER IV.
CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND PURSUITS OF THE
PEOPLE.
Cotton and Sugar Planters; — Farmers; — Population of the
large towns and cities; — Frontier class; — Hunters and
Trappers ; — Boatmen.
There is great diversity in the character
and habits of the population of the Valley of
the Mississippi.
Those who have emigrated from the Atlantic
states, as have a very large proportion of those
persons who were not born in the Valley, of
course do not differ essentially from the remain-
ing population of those states. Some slight
shades of difference are perceptible in such
persons as have lived long enough in the coun-
try to become assimilated to the habits, and
partake of the feelings, of western people.
Emigrants from Europe have brought the
peculiarities of the nations and countries from
whence they have originated, but are fast losing
their national manners and feelings, and, to
use a provincial term, will soon become
" westernized."
il
FOR EMIGRANTS. 103
The march of emigration from the Atlantic
border has been nearly in a line due west.
Tennessee was settled by Carolinians, and
Kentucky by Virginians. Ohio received the
basis of its population from the states in the
same parallel, and hence partakes of all the
varieties from Maryland to New England.
Michigan is substantially a child of New York.
The planters of the south have gone to Missis-
sippi, Louisiana, and the southern part of Ar-
kansas. Kentucky and Tennessee have spread
their sons and daughters over Indiana, Illinois
and Missouri; but the two former states are
now receiving great numbers of emigrants from
all the northern states, including Ohio, and
multitudes from the south, who desire to re-
move beyond the boundaries and influence of a
slave population.
Slavery in the west, keeps nearly in the
same parallels as it holds in the east, and is
receding south, as it does on the Atlantic coast.
Many descendants of the Scotch, Irish and Ger-
mans, have come into the frontier states from
Western Pennsylvania.
We have European emigrants from Great
Britain and Ireland. Those of the latter are
more generally found about our large towns
and cities, and along the lines of canalling.
The French were the explorers and early
settlers of the Valley immediately bordering on
the Mississippi, 150 years since. They formed
the basis of population of Louisiana a few years
since, but are relatively diminishing before the
104
emigration from other states of the Union . Their
descendants show many of the pecuhar and
distinctive traits of that people in all countries.
They possess mild vivacity, and gaiety, and
are distinguished for their quiet, inoffensive,
domestic, frugal, and unenterprising spirit and
manners. The poorer class of French are
rather peculiar and unique. Their ancestors
were isolated from the rest of the world, had
no object of excitement or ambition, cared little
for wealth, or the accumulation of property,
and were accustomed to hunt, make voyages
in their canoes, smoke and traffic with the In-
dians. But few of them knew how to read and
write. Accustomed from infancy to the life of
huntsmen, trappers and boatmen, they make
but indifferent farmers. They are contented
to live in the same rude, but neatly whitewashed
cabin, cultivate the same cornfields in the same
mode, and drive the same rudely constructed
horse cart their fathers did. In the neatness
of their gardens, which are usually cultivated
by the females, they excel the Americans.
They are the coureurs du bois of the West.
The European Germans are now coming in-
to the Valley by thousands, and, for a time,
will retain their manners and language.
Cotton and Sugar Planters. These people,
found chiefly in Mississippi, Louisiana, and the
southern part of Arkansas, have a great degree
of similarity. They are noted for their high-
mindedness, generosity, liberality, hospitality,
sociability, quick sense of honor, resentment of
FOR EMIGRANTS. 105
injuries, indolence, and, in too many cases, dis-
sipation. They are much addicted to the sports
of the turf and the vices of the gaming table
Still there are many planters of strictly moral,
and even religious habits. They are excessive-
ly jealous of their political rights, yet frank
and open hearted in their dispositions, and
carry the duties of hospitality to a great extent.
Having overseers on most of their plantations,
the labor being performed by slaves, they have
much leisure, and are averse to much personal
attention to business. They dislike care, pro-
found thinking and deep impressions. The
young men are volatile, gay, dashing and reck-
less spirits, fond of excitement and high life.
There is a fatal propensity amongst the south-
ern planters to decide quarrels, and even trivial
disputes by duels. But there are also many
amiable and noble traits of character amongst
this class; and if the principles of the Bible
and religion could be brought to exert a con-
trolling influence, there would be a noble spirit-
ed race of people in the southwestern stales.
It cannot be expected that I should pass in
entire silence the system of slaveholding in the
lower Valley, or its influence on the man-
ners and habits of the people. This state of
society seems unavoidable at present, though
I have no idea or expectation it will be per-
petual. Opposite sentiments and feelings are
spreading over the whole earth, and a per-
son must have been a very inattentive observer
of the tendencies and effects of the diffiision of
106 peck's guide
liberal principles not to perceive that heredi-
tary, domestic servitude must have an end.
This is a subject, however, that from our
civil compact, belongs exclusively to the citizens
of the states concerned; and if not unreasona-
bly annoyed, the farming slaveholding stated,
as Kentucky, Tennessee and Missouri, witt
soon provide for its eventual termination.
Doubtless, in the cotton and sugar growing
states it will retain its hold with more tenacity,
but the influence of free principles will roll on-
ward until the evil is annihilated.
The barbarous and unwise regulations in
some of the planting states, ivhich py^ohibit the
slaves from being taught to read^ are a serious
impediment to the moral and religious instruc-
tion of that numerous and unfortunate class.
Such laws display on the part of the law makers,
little knowledge of human nature and the real
tendency of things. To keep slaves entirely
ignorant of the rights of man, in this spirit-
stirring age, is utterly impossible. Seek out
the remotest and darkest corner of Louisiana,
and plant every guard that is possible around
the negro quarters, and the light of truth will
penetrate. Slaves will find out, for they already
know it, that they possess rights as men. And
here is the fatal mistake now committed in the
southern slaveholding states — legislating against
the instruction of their slaves — to keep them
from knowing their rights. They will obtain
some loose, vague, and undefined notion of the
doctrine of human rights, and the unrighteous-
FOR EMIGRANTS, 107
ness of oppression in this republican country.
Being kept from all the moral and religious
instruction which Sabbath schools, the Bible,
and other good books are calculated to impart,
and with those undefined notions of liberty, and
without any moral principle, they are prepared
to enter into the first insurrectionary movement
proposed by some artful and talented leader.
The same notion prevailed in the West Indies
half a century since, and many of the planters
resisted and persecuted the benevolent Mora-
vians, who went there to instruct the blacks in
the principles and duties of religion. A few of
the planters reasoned justly. They invited
these benevolent men on their plantations, and
gave them full liberty on the Sabbath, and at
other suitable seasons, to instruct their slaves.
The happiest effects followed. On these plan-
tations, where riot, misrule, and threatened in-
surrections, had once spread a panic through
the colony, order, quietness and submission
followed. Such would be the effects if the
southern planter would invite the minister of
the gospel and the Sunday school teacher to
visit his plantation, allow his slaves to be in-
structed to read, and each to be furnished with
a copy of the Scriptures. The southern planter
hourly lives under the most terrific apprehen-
sions. It is in vain to disguise the fact. As
Mr. Randolph once significantly said in Con-
gress, '' ivhen the flight bell rings, the mother
hugs her infant closer to her breast.'^ Slavery,
under any circumstances, is a bitter draught —
lOS peck's guide
equally bitter to him who tenders the cup, and
to him who drinks it. But in all the northern
slaveholding states, it is comparatively mild.
Its condition would be much alleviated, and
the planter might sleep securely if he would
abolish his barbarous laws, more congenial
with Asiatic despotism than American repub-
licanism, and provide for his slaves the benefits
of wholesome instruction. Philanthropy and
interest unite in their demands upon every
southern planter to provide Sunday school in-
struction for his slaves.
The planting region of the lower Valley fur-
nishes an immense market for the productions
and manufactures of the upper Valley. Indi-
rectly, the Louisiana sugar business is a source
of profit to the farmer of Illinois and Missouri.
Pork, beef, corn, corn-meal, flour, potatoes,
butter, hay, &.c. in vast quantities, go to supply
these plantations. In laying in their stores,
the sugar planters usually purchase one barrel
of second or third quality of beef or pork per
annum, for each laborer. Large drafts for sugar
mills, engines and boilers, are made upon the
Cincinnati and Pittsburg iron foundries. Mules
and horses are driven from the upper country,
or from the Mexican dominions, to keep up the
supply.
The commerce of the upper country that
concentrates at New Orleans is amazing, and
every year is rapidly increasing. Sixteen hun-
dred arrivals of steamboats took place in 1832,
and the estimated number in 1835 is 2,300.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 1'09
Farmers. — In the northern half of the Valley
the productions, and the modes of cultivation
and living are such as to characterize a large
proportion of the population as farmers. No
country on earth has such facilities for agricul-
ture. The soil is abundantly fertile, the sea-
sons ordinarily favorable to the growth and
maturity of crops, and every farmer in a few
years, with reasonable industry, becomes com-
paratively independent. Tobacco and hemp
are among the staple productions of Kentucky.
Neat cattle, horses, mules and swine are its
stock. Some stock growers have monopolized
the smaller farms till they are surrounded with
several thousand acres. Blue grass pastures
furnish summer feed, and extensive fields of
corn, cut up near the ground, and stacked in
the fields, furnish stores for fattening stock in
the winter.
In some counties, raising of stock has taken
place of all other business. The Scioto Val-
ley, and other districts in Ohio, are famous for
fine, well fed beef Thousands of young cat-
tle are purchased by the Ohio graziers, at the
close of winter, of the farmers of Illinois and
Missouri. The Miami and White-water sec-
tions of Ohio and Indiana, abound with swine.
Cincinnati has been the great pork mart of the
world. 150,000 head of hogs have been fre-
quently slaughtered there in a season. About
75,000 is estimated to be the number slaugh-
tered at that place the present season. This
apparent falling off in the pork business, at
IM peck's guide
Cincinnati, is accounted for by the vast in-
crease of business at other places. Since the
opening of the canals in Ohio, many provision
establishments have been made along their
line. Much business of the kind is now done
at Terre Haute and other towns on the Wa-
bash,— at Madison, Louisville, and other towns
on the Ohio, — at Alton and other places in Illi-
nois.
The farmers of the West are independent
An feeling, plain in dress, simple in manners,
frank and hospitable in their dwellings, and
soon acquire a competency by moderate labor.
Those from Kentucky, Tennessee, or other
states south of the Ohio river, have large
fields, well cultivated, and enclosed with strong
built rail or worm fences, but they often neg-
lect to provide spacious barns and other out-
houses for their grain, hay and stock. The
influence of habit, is powerful. A Kentuckian
would look with contempt upon the low fences
of a New-Englander as indicating thriftless
habits, while the latter would point at the un-
sheltered stacks of wheat, and dirty threshingj
floor of the former, as proof direct of bad
economy and wastefulness.
Population of the Cities and large Towns.
The population of western towns does not dif-
fer essentially from the same class in the
Atlantic states, excepting there is much less
division into grades and ranks, less ignorance,
low depravity and squalid poverty amongst
the poor, and less aristocratic feeling amongst
FOR EMIGRANTS. Ill
the rich. As there is never any lack of em-
ployment for laborers of every description,
there is comparatively no suffering from that
cause. And the hospitable habits of the peo-
ple provide for the sick, infirm and helpless.
Doubtless, our circumstances more than any
thing else, cause these shades of difference.
The common mechanic is on a social equality
with the merchant, the lawyer, the physician,
and the minister. They have shared in the
same fatigues and privations, partook of the
same homely fare, in many instances have fought
side by side in defence of their homes against
the inroads of savages, — are frequently elect-
ed to the same posts of honor, and have
accumulated property simultaneously. Many
mechanics in the western cities and towns, are
the owners of their own dwellings, and of other
buildings, which they rent. I have known
many a wealthy merchant, or professional gen-
tleman occupy on rent, a building worth
several thousand dollars, the property of some
industrious mechanic, who, but a few years
previous, was an apprentice lad, or worked at
his trade as a journeyman. Any sober, indus-
trious mechanic can place himself in affluent
circumstances, and place his children on an
equality with the children of the commercial
and professional community, by migrating to
any of our new and rising western towns.
They will find no occasion here for combin-
ations to sustain their interests, nor meet with
annoyance from gangs of unprincipled foreign-
112 peck's guide
ers, under the imposing names of ^^ Trades
Unions."
Manufactures of various kinds are carried
on in our western cities. Pittsburg has been
characterized as the ^* Birmingham of Ameri-
ca." The manufactures of iron, machinery
and glass, and the building of steamboats, are
carried on to a great extent.
Iron and salt, are made in great quantities
in Western Pennsylvania, and Western Vir-
ginia. Steamboats are built to a considerable
extent at Fulton, two miles above Cincinnati,
and occasionally at many other places on the
Ohio and Mississippi rivers. Alton offers
great facilities for this business. Cotton bag-
ging, bale ropes, and cordage, are manufactur-
ed in Tennessee and Kentucky, The follow-
ing article from the Covington Enquirer, gives
a few items of the industry and enterprise of
Kentucky ,^ — of the manufacture of Newport
and Covington. Both of these thriving towns
lie at the mouth of the Licking river, the one
on the right bank, and the other on the left,
and both in direct view of Cincinnati.
MANUFACTURES IN COVINGTON AND NEWPORT.
" Founding the calculation upon the actual
manufactures of October, and the known pow-
er of their machinery, the Company will the
ensuing year, give employment to more than
four hundred operatives, and manufacture,
60,000 lbs. of Cotton Bagging,
84,000 do Cotton Yarns,
FOR EMIGRANTS. 113
274,268 lbs. Bale Rope,
448,000 do Cordage,
44,592 yards Linseys,
63,588 do Cotton Plains,
97,344 do Kentucky Jeans,
548,530 do Cotton Bagging and Hemp.
Estimating Bale Rope and Cotton Bagging
at 33 per cent under the price at which the
Company have sold these articles for the last
six months, the manufactures of this Company
during the ensuing year will amount to
^358,548 44. Almost all the manufactures at
Covington and Newport being exported to
foreign markets, it will result that the annual
exports from these points will, in round num-
bers, be from the
Interior $750,000
Campbell County 150,000
Boone County 234,000
Covington 548,500
Newport 358,500
$2,041,000
The Newport Manufacturing Company has
depended principally for its supply of Hemp,
on the production of Mason county, of which
Maysville is the market; — this season they
have not been able to get a supply at Maysville,
and it is a remarkable fact in the history of
the Hemp manufactories in Kentucky, that
this company, owing to the scarcity and high
prices of Hemp in Kentucky, has imported this
season 354,201 lbs. Russia Hemp.
114 peck's guide
Various manufactures are springing up in
all the new states, which will be noticed under
their proper heads.
The number of merchants and traders is
very great in the Valley of the Mississippi, yet
^mercantile business is rapidly increasing. —
/ Thousands of the farmers of the West, are
partial traders. They take their own produce,
in their own flat boats, down the rivers to the
market of the lower country.
Frontier class of Population. The rough,
sturdy habits of the backwoodsmen, living in
that plenty which depends on God and nature,
have laid the foundation of independent thought
and feeling deep in the minds of western
people.
Generally, in all the western settlements,
three classes, like the waves of the ocean,
have rolled one after the other. First comes the
Poineer, who depends for the subsistence of
his family chiefly upon the natural growth of
vegetation, called the '^ range," and the pro-
ceeds of hunting. His implements of agricul-
tijre are rude, chiefly of his own make, and
/his efforts directed mainly to a crop of corn,
and a '^ truck patch." The last is a rude
garden for growing cabbage, beans, corn for
roasting ears, cucumbers and potatoes. A log
cabin, and occasionally a stable and corncrib,
and a field of a dozen acres, the timber girdled
or " deadened," and fenced, are enough for
his occupancy. It is quite immaterial whether
he ever becomes the owner of the soil. He is
FOR. EMIGRANTS. 115
the occupant for the time being, pays no rent,
and feels as independent as the '' lord of the
manor." With a horse, cow, and one or two
breeders of swine, he strikes into the woods
with his family, and becomes the founder of a
new county, or perhaps state. He builds his
cabin, gathers around him a few other families
of similar taste and habits, and occupies till
the range is somewhat subdued, and hunting a
little precarious, or, which is more frequently the
case, till neighbors crowd around, roads, bridges
and fields annoy him, and he lacks elbow-room.
The pre-emption law enables him to dispose of
his cabin and cornfield, to the next class of
emigrants, and, to employ his own figures, he
'' breaks for the high timber," — '' clears out
for the New Purchase," or migrates to Arkan-
sas or Texas, to work the same process over.
The next class of emigrants purchase the
lands, add " field to field," clear out the roads,
throw rough bridges over the streams, put up
hewn log houses, with glass windows, and
brick or stone chimneys, occasionally plant
orchards, build mills, school houses, court
houses, &.C., and exhibit the picture and forms
of plain, frugal, civilized life.
Another wave rolls on. The men of capital /
and enterprise come. The ^' settler" is ready
to sell out, and take the advantage of the rise
of property, — push farther into the interior,
and become himself, a man of capital and en-
terprise in time. The small village rises to ♦
a spacious town or city, — substantial edifices
116 peck's guide
of brick, extensive fields, orchards, gardens —
colleges and churches are seen. Broadcloths,
silks, leghorns, crapes, and all the refinements,
luxuries, elegancies, frivolities and fashions,
are in vogue. Thus wave after wave is rolling
westward — the real el dorado is still farther on.
A portion of the two first classes remain
stationary amidst the general movement, im-
j)rove their habits and condition, and rise in
/ the scale of society.
The writer has travelled much amongst the
first class — the real pioneers. He has lived
many years in connexion with the second
grade, and now the third wave is sweeping over
large districts of Indiana, Illinois and Missouri.
Migration has become almost a habit in the
west. Hundreds of men can be found, not
X fifty years of age, who have feettled for the
fourth, fifth, or sixth time on a new spot. To
sell out and remove only a few hundred miles,
makes up a portion of the variety of backwoods
life and manners.
But to return to the Frontier class.
1. Dress. — The hunting shirt is universally
worn. This is a kind of loose, open frock,
reaching halfway down the thighs, with large
sleeves, the body open in front, lapped over,
and belted with a leathern girdle, held together
with a buckle. The cape is large, and usually
fringed with different colored cloth from that
of the body. The bosom of this dress some-
times serves as a wallet for a "chunk" of
bread, jerk or smoke-dried venison, and other
FOR EMIGRANTS. 117
articles. It is made either of dressed deer
skins, linsey, coarse linen, or cotton. The
shirt, waistcoat and pantaloons are of similar
articles and of the customary form. Wrappers
of cloth or dressed skins, called ''leggins " are
tied round the legs when travelling. Moccasins
of deer skins, shoe packs, and rough shoes,
the leather tanned and cobbled by the owner,
are worn on the feet.
The females' dress in a coarse gown oi
cotton, a bonnet of the same stuff, and denomi-
nated in the eastern states a "sun-bonnet."
The latter is constantly worn through the day,
especially when company is present. The
clothing for both sexes is made at home. The
wheel and loom are common articles of furniture
in every cabin.
2. Dwellings. — "Cabin" is the name for a
plain, rough log-house, throughout the west.
The spot being selected, usually in the timbered
land, and near some spring, the first operation
of the newly arrived emigrant is to cut about
40 logs of the proper size and length for a
single cabin, or twice that number for a double
one, and haul them to the spot. A large oak
or other suitable timber, of straight grain, and
free from limbs, is selected for clapboards for
the roof These are four feet in length, split
with a froe six or eight inches wide, and half
an inch thick. Puncheons are used for the
floor. These are made by splitting trees about
eighteen inches in diameter into slabs, two or
three inches in thickness, and hewn on the
5#
lid peck's guide
upper surface. The door way is made by
cutting out the logs after raising, of a suitable
width, and putting upright pieces of timber at
the sides. The shutter is made of clapboards^
pinned on cross pieces, hung by wooden hinges,
and fastened by a wooden latch. A similar
aperture, but is wider made at one end for the
chimney. The men of the settlement, when
notified, collect and raise the building. Four
stout men with axes are placed on the corners
to notch the logs together, while the rest of the
company lift them up. After the roof is on the
body of the building, it is slightly hewed down
both out and inside. The roof is formed by
shortening each end log in succession till one
log forms the comb of the roof. The clap-
boards are put on so as to cover all cracks,
and held down by poles or small logs.
The chimney is built of sticks of wood, the
largest at the bottom, and the smallest at the
top, and laid up with a supply of mud or clay
mortar. The interstices between the logs are
chinked with strips of wood and daubed with
mortar both outside and in. A double cabin con-
sists of two such buildings with a space of 10 or
12 feet between, over which the roof extends.
A log house y in western parlance, differs from
a cabin in the logs being hewn on two sides to
an equal thickness before raising, — in having
a framed and shingled roof, a brick or stone
chimney, windows, tight floors, and are fre-
quently clapboarded on the outside and plaster-
ed within.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 119
A log house thus finished, costs more than
a framed one. Cabins are often the temporary
dwelUngs of opulent and highly respectable
families.
The axe, auger, froe, drawing knife, broad-
axe, and crosscut saw are the only tools re-
quired in constructing these rude edifices; —
sometimes the axe and auger only are employ-
ed. Not a nail or pane of glass is needed.
Cabins are by no means as wretched for
residences as their name imports.
They are often roomy, comfortable and neat.
If one is not sufficient to accommodate the
family, another is added, and another until
sufficient room is obtained.
3. Furniture and mode of living;. — The genuine
backwoodsman makes himself and family com-
fortable and contented where those, unac-
customed to his mode of life, would live in un-
availing regret, or make a thousand awkward
apologies on the visit of a neighbor or traveller.
A table is made of a split slab and supported
by four round legs. Clapboards supported by
pins stuck in the logs answer for shelves for
table furniture. The bedstead is often made
in the corner of the room by sticks placed in
the logs, supported at the outward corner by a
post, on which clapboards are laid, the ends of
which enter the wall between the logs, and
which support the bedding. On the arrival of
travellers or visiters, the bed clothing is shared
with them, being spread on the puncheon floor
that the feet may project towards the fire.
120
Many a night has the writer passed in this
manner, after a fatiguing day's ride, and re-
posed more comfortably than on a bed of down
in a spacious mansion. All the family of both
sexes, with all the strangers who arrive, often
lodge in the same room. In that case the un-
der garments are never taken off, and no
consciousness of impropriety or indehcacy of
feeling is manifested. A few pins stuck in the
wall of the cabin display the dresses of the
women and the hunting shirts of the men.
Two small forks or bucks-horns fastened to a
joist are indispensable articles for the support
of the rifle. A loose floor of clapboards, and
supported by round poles, is thrown over head
for a loft which furnishes a place to throw any
articles not immediately wanted, and is fre-
quently used for a lodging place for the young-
er branches of the family. A ladder planted
in the corner behind the door answers the
purpose of stairs.
The necessary table and kitchen furniture
are a few pewter dishes and spoons, knives
and forks, (for which however, the common
hunting knife is often a substitute,) tin cups for
coffee or milk, a water pail and a small gourd
or calabash for water, with a pot and iron
Patch oven, constitute the chief articles. Add
to these a tray for wetting up meal for corn
bread, a coffeepot and set of cups and saucers,
a set of common plates, and the cabin is
furnished. The hominy mortar and hand mill
are in use in all frontier settlements. The
FOR EMIGRANTS. 121
first consists of a block of wood with an ex-
cavation burned at one end and scraped out
with an iron tool, wide at top and narrow at the
bottom that the action of the pestle may operate
to the best advantage. Sometimes a stump of
a large tree is excavated while in its natural
position. An elastic pole, 20 or 30 feet in
length, with the large end fastened under the
ground log of the cabin, and the other elevated
10 or 15 feet and supported by two forks, to
which a pestle 5 or 6 inches in diameter and 8
or 10 feet long is fixed on the elevated end by
a large mortice, and a pin put through its
lower end so that two persons can work it in
conjunction. This is much used for pounding
corn. A very simple instrument to answer the
same purpose, is a circular piece of tin, per-
forated, and attached to a piece of wood like a
grater, on which the ears of corn are rubbed
for meal. The hand mill is in the same form
as that used in Judea in the time of our Savior.
Two circular stones, about 18 inches in diam-
eter constructed hke ordinary mill stones, with
a staff let into the runner or upper stone near
its outer edge, with the upper end inserted in
a joist or board over head, and turned by the
hands of two persons while one feeds it with
corn. Horse mills follow the mortar and hand
mill in the scale of improvement. They are
constructed variously. A hand mill is the most
simple. A large upright post is placed on a
gudgeon, with shafts extending horizontally 15
or 20 feet. Around the ends of these is a band
PECK S GUIDE
of raw hide twisted, which passes around the
trundle head and turns the spindle and com-
municates motion to the stone. A cog mill is
formed by constructing a rim with cogs upon
the shafts, and a trundle head to correspond.
Each person furnishes his own horses to turn
the mill, performs his own grinding, and pays
toll to the owner for use of the mill. Mills
with the wheel on an inclined plane, and carried
by oxen standing on the wheel, are much in
use in those sections where water power is not
convenient, but these indicate an advance to
the second grade of society.
Instead of bolting cloths, the frontier people
use a sieve or as called here, a ''search."
This is made from a deer skin prepared to re-
semble parchment, stretched on a hoop and
perforated full of holes with a hot wire.
Every backwoodsman carries on all occasions,
the means of furnishing his meat. The rifle,
bullet pouch and horn, hunting knife, horse
and dog are his constant companions when
from home, and woe be to the wolf, bear, deer
or turkey that comes within one hundred and
fifty yards of his trail.
With the first emigration there are few
mechanics; hence every settler becomes ex-
pert in supplying his own necessaries. Besides
clearing land, building cabins, and making
fences, he stocks his own plough, repairs his
wagon and his harness, tans his own leather,
makes his shoes, tables, bedsteads, stools or
seats, trays and a hundred other articles.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 123
These may be rudely constructed, but they
answer his purpose very well.
The following extracts from the graphic
" Sketches of the West," by James Hall,
Esq. completes this extended picture of back-
woods manners.
" The traveller, accustomed to different modes
of life, is struck with the rude and uncomforta-
ble appearance of every thing about this peo-
ple,— the rudeness of their habitations, the
carelessness of their agriculture, the unsightly
coarseness of all their implements and furniture,
the unambitious homeliness of all their goods
and chattels, except the axe, the rifle, and the
horse — these being invariably the best and
handsomest which their means enable them to
procure. But he is mistaken in supposing them
indolent or improvident ; and is little aware
how much ingenuity and toil have been exerted
in procuring the few comforts which they pos-
sess, in a country without arts, mechanics,
money, or commercial intercourse.
^'The backwoodsman has many substantial
enjoyments. After the fatigue of his journey,
and a short season of privation and danger, he
finds himself surrounded with plenty. His
cattle, hogs, and poultry, supply his table with
meat; the forest abounds in game; the fertile
soil yields abundant crops; he has, of course,
bread, milk, and butter; the rivers furnish fish,
and the woods honey. For these various
articles, there is, at first, no market, and the
farmer acquires the generous habit of spread-
124 peck's guide
ing them profusely on his table, and giving
them freely to a hungry traveller and an indigent
neighbor.
*' Hospitality and kindness are among the
virtues of the first settlers. Exposed to com-
mon dangers and toils, they become united by
the closest ties of social intercourse. Accus-
tomed to arm in each other's defence, to aid in
each other's labor, to assist in the affectionate
duty of nursing the sick, and the mournful
office of burying the dead, the best affections
of the heart are kept in constant exercise; and
there is, perhaps, no class of men in our coun-
try, who obey the calls of benevolence, with
such cheerful promptness, or with so liberal a
sacrifice of personal convenience.
^^ We read marvellous stories of the ferocity
of western men. The name of Kentuckian is
constantly associated with the idea of fighting,
dirking, and gouging. The people of whom
we are now writing do not deserve this charac-
ter. They live together in great harmony,
with little contention' and less litigation. The
backwoodsmen are a generous and placable
race. They are bold and impetuous; and
when differences do arise among them, they
are more apt to give vent to their resentment at
once, than to brood over their wrongs, or to
seek legal redress. But this conduct is pro-
ductive of harmony ; for men are always more
guarded in their deportment to each other, and
more cautious of giving offence, when they
know that the insult will be quickly felt, and
FOR EMIGRANTS. 125
instantly resented, than when the consequences
of an offensive action are doubtful, and the re-
taliation distant. We have no evidence that
the pioneers of Kentucky were quarrelsome or
cruel; and an intimate acquaintance with the
same race, at a later period, has led the writer to
the conclusion, that they are a humane people;
bold and daring, when opposed to an enemy,
but amiable in their intercourse with each other
and with strangers, and habitually inclined to
peace."
In morals and the essential principles of re-
ligion, this class of people are by no means so-^'^
defective as many imagine. The writer has
repeatedly been in settlements and districts be-
yond the pale of civil and criminal law, where
the people are a ^'law unto themselves," where
courts, lawyers, sheriffs, and constables existed
not, and yet has seen as much quiet and order,
and more honesty in paying just debts, than
where legal restraints operated in all their
force. The turpitude of vice and the majesty
of virtue, were as apparent as in older settle-
ments. Industry, in laboring or hunting,
bravery in war, candor, honesty, and hospitality
were rewarded with the confidence and honor
of the people. Regulating parties would ex-
ist, and thieves, rogues and counterfeiters were
sure to receive a striped Jacket " worked
nineteen to the dozen," and by this mode of
operation, induced to ^^ clear out;" but truth,
uprightness, honesty and sincerity are always
respected. Many of the frontier class are
6
illiterate, but they are by no means ignorant.
They are a shrewd, observing, thinking people.
They may not have learned the black marks
in books, but they have studied men and things,
and have a quick insight into human nature.
They are not inattentive to religion, though
their opportunities of religious instruction are
few, compared with old countries. They have
prejudices and fears about many of the organi-
zed benevolent societies of the present age,
yet there are no people more readily disposed
to attend religious meetings, and whose hearts
are more readily affected with the gospel than
the backwoods people; and as large a propor-
tion are orderly professors of religion as in any
part of the Union. Ministers of the gospel and
Missionaries, who can suit themselves to the
circumstances and habits of frontier people, —
who hke Paul, can '^become all things to all
men," — find pleasant and interesting fields of
labor on all our frontiers. But let such per-
sons show fastidiousness, affect superior in-
telligence and virtue, catechise the people for
their plainness and simphcity of manners, and
draw invidious comparisons, and they are sure
to be "used up," or left without hearers, to
deplore the " dark clouds " of ignorance and
prejudice in the west.
Hunters and Trappers. Entirely beyond the
boundaries of civilization are many hundreds
of a unique class, distinguished by the terms
Hunters and Trappers. They are engaged in
hunting buffalo and other wild game, and trap-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 127
ping for beaver. They are found upon the
vast prairies of the West and Northwest, — in
all the defiles and along the streams of the
Rocky mountains, and in various parts of the
Oregon Territory, to the peninsula of Califor-
nia. They are an enterprising and erratic
race from almost every state, and are usually
in the employ of persons of capital and enter-
prise, and who are concerned in the fur and
peltry business. Expeditions for one, two, or
three years, are fitted out from St. Louis, or
some commercial point, consisting of compa-
nies, who ascend the rivers to the regions of
fur. The hunters and trappers, receive a pro-
portion of the profits of the expedition. Some
become so enamored with this wandering and
exposed life as to lose all desire of returning
to the abodes of civilization, and remain for
the rest of their lives in the American deserts.
There are individuals, who are graduates of
colleges, and who once stood high in the cir-
cles of refinement and taste, that have passed
more than twenty years amongst the roaming
tribes of the Rocky mountains, or on the
western slope, till they have apparently lost all
feelings towards civilized life. They have af-
forded an interesting but melancholy example
of the tendencies of human nature towards the
degraded state of savages. The improvement
of the species is a slow and laborious process,
— the deterioration is rapid, and requires only/
to be divested of restraint, and left to its own
unaided tendencies. Many others have re-
1S8 peck's guide
turned to the habits of civilization, and some
with fortunes made from the woods and prai-
ries.
Boatmen. These are the fresh water sailors
of the West, with much of the Hght hearted,
reckless character of the sons of the Ocean,
including peculiar shades of their own. Be-
fore the introduction of Steamboats on the
western waters, its immense commerce was
carried on by means of keel boats, and barges.
The former is much in the shape of a canal boat,
long, slim-built, sharp at each end, and pro-
pelled by setting poles and the cordelle or long
rope. The barge is longer, and has a bow
and stern. Both are calculated to ascend
streams but by a very slow process. Each
boat would require from ten to thirty hands,
according to its size. A number of these
boats frequently sailed in company. The
boatmen were proverbially lawless at every
town and landing, and indulged without re-
straint in every species of dissipation, debauch-
ery and excess. But this race has become
reformed, or nearly extinct; — yes, reformed
by the mighty power of steam. A steam-
boat, with half the crew of a barge or
keel, will carry ten times the burden, and
perform six or eight trips in the time it took a
keel boat to make one voyage. Thousands of
flat boats, or ^' broad horns," as they are call-
ed, pass doivn the rivers with the produce
of the country, which are managed by the
farmers of the West, but never return up
FOR EMIGRANTS. 129
stream. They are sold for lumber, and the
owners, after disposing of the cargo, return
by steam. The number of boatmen on the
western waters is not only greatly reduced^ but
those that remain are fast losing their original
character.
130 peck's guide
CHAPTER V
PUBLIC LANDS.
System of Surveys. — ^IMeridian and Base Lines. — Town-
ships.— Diagram of a township surveyed into Sections.
— Land Districts and Offices. — Pre-emption rights. —
MiUtary Bounty Lands. — Taxes. — Valuable Tracts of
country imsettled.
In all the new states and territories, the
lands which are owned by the general govern-
ment, are surveyed and sold under one general
system. Several offices, each under the direc-
tion of a surveyor general, have been establish-
ed by acts of Congress, and districts, em-
bracing one or more states, assigned them. The
office for the surveys of all public lands in
Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, and the Wisconsin
country is located at Cincinnati. The one in-
cluding the states of Illinois and Missouri, and
the territory of Arkansas is at St. Louis.
Deputy surveyors are employed to do the work
at a stipulated rate per mile, generally from
three to four dollars, who employ chain bear-
ers, an axe, and flag man, and a camp-keeper.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 131
They are exposed to great fatigue and hard-
ship, spending two or three months at a time
in the woods and prairies, with slight, moveable
camps for shelter.
In the surveys, ^^ meridian^^ lines are first
established, running north from the mouth of
some noted river. These are intersected with
'^ base^^ lines.
There are five principal meridians in the land
surveys in the west.
The ^^ First Principal Meyidian^^ is a line due
north from the mouth of the Miami.
The ^' Second Principal Meridian'''' is a line
due north from the mouth of Little Blue river, in
Indiana.
The *^ Third Principal Meridian^^ IS, a line due
north from the mouth of the Ohio.
The ^^ Fourth Principal Meridian^'' is a line
due north from the mouth of the Illinois.
The " Fijth Principal Meridian''^ is a line due
north from the mouth of the Arkansas. Another
Meridian is used for Michigan, which passes
through the central part of the state. Its base
line extends from about the middle of lake St.
Clair, across the state west to lake Michigan.
Each of these meridians has its own base line.
The surveys connected with the third and
fourth meridians, and a small portion of the
second, embrace the state of Illinois.
The base line for both the second and third
principal meridians commences at Diamond
Island, in Ohio, opposite Indiana, and runs due
132 peck's guide
west till it strikes the Mississippi, a few miles
below St. Louis.
All the townships in Illinois, south and east of
the Illinois river, are numhered from this base
line either north or south.
The third principal meridian terminates with
the northern boundaiT of the state.
The fourth principal meridian commences in
in the centre of the channel, and at the mouth
of the Illinois river, but immediately crosses
to the east shore, and passes up on that
side, (and at one place nearly fourteen miles
distant) to a point in the channel of the river,
seventy-two miles from its moutJi. Here its
base line commences and extends across the
peninsula to the Mississippi, a short distance
above Quincy. The fourth principal meridian
is continued northward through the military
tract, and across Rock river, to a curve in
the Mississippi at the upper rapids, in town-
ship eighteen north, and about twelve or fifteen
miles above Rock Island. It here crosses and
passes up the west side of the Mississippi river
fifty-three miles, and recrosses into Illinois, and
j)asses through the town of Galena to the
northern boundary of the state. It is thence
continued to the Wisconsin river and made
the principal meridian for the surveys of the
territory, wiiile the northern boundary line of
the state is constituted its base line for that
region.
Having formed a principal meridian with its
FOR EMIGRANTS. 133
corresponding base line, for a district of coun-
try, the next operation of the surveyor is to di-
vide this into tracts of six miles square, called
*^ townships.''^
In numbering the townships east or west from
a principal meridian, they are called '* ranges,'^
meaning a range of townships; but in number-
ing nort/i or south from a base line, they are call-
ed ^Hoimships.'' Thus a tract of land is said to
be situated in township four north in range
three east, from the third principal meridian;
or as the case may be.
Townships are subdivided into square miles,
or tracts of 640 acres each, called ^^ sections.'"
If near timber, trees are marked and numbered
with the section, township, and range, near
each sectional corner. If in a large prairie, a
mound is raised to designate the corner, and a
billet of charred wood buried, if no rock is
near. Sections are divided into halves by a
line north and south, and into quarters by a
transverse line. In sales under certain condi-
tions, quarters are sold in equal subdivisions
of forty acres each, at one dollar and twenty-
five cents per acre. Any person, whether
a native born citizen, or a foreigner, may
purchase forty acres of the richest soil,
and receive an indisputable title, for fifty
dollars.
Ranges are townships counted either east
or west from meridians.
Toimships are counted either north or south
from their respective base lines.
134
feck's guide
Fractions, are parts of quarter sections inter-
sected by streams or confirmed claims.
The parts of townships, sections, quarters,
&c. made at the lines of either townships or
meridians are called excesses or deficiencies.
Sections, or miles square are numbered, begin-
ning in the northeast corner of the township,
progressively west to the range line, and then
progressively east to the range line, alternately,
terminating at the southeast corner of the town-
ship, from one to thirty-six, as in the following
diagram :
6
5
4
3
2 1
7
8
9
10
11
12
18
17
16*
15
14
13
19
20
21
22
23
24
30
29
28
27
26
25
31
1
32
33
34
35
36
i
Appropriated for schools in the township.^
^ FOR EMIGRANTS. 135
I have been thus particular in this account of
the surveys of public lands, to exhibit the sim-
plicity of a system, that to strangers, unac-
quainted with the method of numbering the sec-
tions, and the various subdivisions, appears
perplexing and confused.
All the lands of Congress owned in Ohio
have been surveyed, and with the exceptions
of some Indian reservations, have been brought
into market. In Indiana, all the lands pur-
chased of the Indians have been surveyed, and
with the exception of about ninety townships
and fractional townships, have been offered for
^ale. These, amounting to about two millions
of acres, will be offered for sale the present
year. In Michigan, nearly all the ceded lands
have been surveyed and brought into market.
The unsurveyed portion is situated in the
neighborhood of Saginau bay; a part of which
may be ready for market within the current
year.
In the Wisconsin Territory, west of lake
Michigan, all the lands in the Wisconsin
district, which lies between the state of Illinois
and the Wisconsin river, have been surveyed;
and in addition to the lands already offered
for sale in the Green Bay district, about 65 town-
ships, and fractional townships, have been sur-
veyed and are ready for market. The surveys
of the whole country west of lake Michigan
and south of the Wisconsin river, in Illinois
and Wisconsin territory, will soon be surveyed
and in market. Here are many millions of the
136
finest lands on earth, lying along the Des
Pleines, Fox, and Rock rivers, and their
tributaries, well watered, rich soil, a healthy
atmosphere, and facilities to market. A tem-
porary scarcity of timber in some parts of this
region will retard settlements, for a time; but
this difficulty will be obviated, by the rapidity
with which prairie land turns to a timbered
region, wherever, by contiguous settlements,
the wild grass becomes subdued, and by the
discovery of coal beds. Much of it is a mineral
region. In Illinois, the surveys are now com-
pleted in the Danville district, and in the
southern part of the Chicago district. They
are nearly completed along Rock river and the
Mississippi. The unsurveyed portion is along
Fox river, Des Pleines and the shore of lake
Michigan, in the northeastern part of the state.
Emigrants, however, do not wait for surveys
and sales. They are settling over this fine
portion of the state, in anticipation of purchases.
In Missouri, besides the former surveys, the
exterior lines of 138 townships, and the sub-
division into sections and quarters, 30 town-
ships in the northern part of the state, and
contracts for running the exterior lines of 189
townships on the waters of the Osage and
Grand rivers have been made. A large portion
of this state is now surveyed and in market.
Surveys are progressing in Arkansas, and
large bodies of land are proclaimed for sale in
that district.
I have no data before me that will enable
FOR EMIGHANTS. 137
me definitely to show the amount of public lands
now remaining unsold, in each land office dis-
trict. In another place I have already given
an estimate of the amount of public lands,
within the organized states and territoriesr, re-
maining unsold, compared with the amount sold
in past years.
The following table exhibits the number of
acres sold in the districts embraced more im-
i mediately within the range of this Guide, for
1834, and the three first quarters of 1835, with
the names of each district in each state. It is
constructed from the Report of the Commission-
er of the General Land Office to the Treasury
Department, December 5th, 1835. The sales
of the last quarter of 1835, in Illinois, and pro-
bably in the other states, greatly exceeded
either the other quarters, and which will be
exhibited in the annual report of the Com-
missioner in December, 1836.
138
PECK S GUIDE
Statement of the amount of Public Lands, sold at
the several Land Offices in Ohio, Indiana ,
Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Missouri, and
Arkansas, in 1834.
Land Offices.
Acres and
Land Offices.
I Acres and
Uiundredtha
Ohio.
Marietta
Zanesville
Steul>envi]le, do
Chilicotlie, do
Cincinnati, do
Wooster, do
Wapaghkonetta do
Bucyru3 do
Total for ihe State,
iNDtANA.
Jeffersonville district.
district, 11,999.52
33,877. 23
4,349. 19
21,309. 32
27,369. 52
9,448. 77
125,417. 13
245,078. 56
Vincennes
Indianopolis
Cravvfordsville
Fort Wayne
La Porte
478,847. 24
67,826. 11
56,765. 80
204,526. 63
161,477. 87
96,350. 30
86,709. 73
Total for the State, 673,656. 44
Illinois.
Shawneetown district. 6,904. 24
Kaskaskia do 15,196. 52
Edwardsville
Vandalia
Palestine
Springfield
Danville
Quincy
Total for the State,
124,302. 19
20,^207. 61
22,135. 69
66,804. 25
62,331. 38
36,131. 59
354,013. 47
Michigan Territory
Detroit
Monroe
district 136,410, 69
do 233,768. 30
White Pigeon Prairie ) jgg 344^ 47
do
Total for the Territory498,423. 46
Wisconsin Territory.
Mineral Point dist. 14,336.67
Missouri.
St. Louis
Fayette
Palnnyra
Jackson
Lexington
district,
do
do
do
do
43,634. 68
71,049. 74
76,241. 35
18,882. 11
43,983. 80
Total for the State, 253,791. 70
Arkansas Territory.
Batesville district. 8,051. 31
Little Rock do 25,799. 74
Washington do 65,145. 88
Favetteville do 24,514. 94
Helena do 26,244. 59
Total for the Territory 149,756. 46
FOR EMIGRANTS.
139
Statement of the amount of Public Lands, sold at
the several Land Offices in Ohio, Indiana,
Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Missouri, and
Arkansas , from January 1st, to September 30th,
1835, including nine months.
Land Offices.
Acres and
hundredths
Land Offices.
Acres and
hundredths
Ohio.
Michigan.
Marietta Dist. ] 1,012. 98
Detroit Dist.
213,763. 57
Zanesville do 42,978. 36
Brownson do
400,722. 48
SteubenvilJe do 3,649 29
Monroe do
446,631. 61
Chilicothe do 12,586 87
Total for Michigan >
1,061,127. 66
Cincinnati do 20,105. 76
proper, J
Wooster do 5,157.68
Wapaghkonetta 1 ^^ 103.020.23
Wisconsin.
and Lima, i
Bucyrus do
Total for the State,
154,706 63
Mineral Point Dist.
Green Bay do
Total for Wisconsin
Territory,
67,052. 55
68,365. 53
353,217, 80
j 135,418. 08
IWDIANA.
Jeffersonville Dist, 44,634.81
Missouri.
Vincennes do 70,903. 62
St. Louis Dist.
32,914. 57
Indianapolis do 158,786. 68
Fayette do
55,839. 58
Crawfordsville do 108,0.55.22
Palmyra do
101,018.00
Fort Wayne do 148,864.28
Jackson do
28,995. 19
La Porte do 227,702.35
Lexington do
42,801. 45
Total for the State, 758,946. 96
Springfield do
320. 00
Total for the State,
261,888. 79
Illinois.
Shawneetown Dist. .5,754. 08
Arkansas.
Kaskaskia do 13,814. 38
Batesville Dist.
2,021. 22
Edwardsviile do 123,638.07
Little Rock do
22,291.92
Vandalia do 16,253. 46
Washington do
43,360. 81
Palestine do 14,088. 01
Fayetteville do
8,723. 72
Springfield do 316,966.70
Helena do
312,169. 09
Danville do 94,491 35
auincy do *40,274. 58
Total fortheTarritory 388,566. 76
Galena do t262,152. 73
Chicago do 333,405.40
Total for the State, 1,220,838. 76
* Returns only to May 31st.
t Returns only to July 31st.
Since those periods, the sales at
these Offices have been
immense ,
140 peck's guide
The reader will perceive that the sales of the
three first quarters of 1835, almost doubled
those of the whole year of 1834. The inquiry
was often made of the writer, while travelling
in the Atlantic states in the summer of 1835,
whether there was still opportunity for emi-
grants to purchase public lands in Indiana,
Illinois, &c. where land offices had been open-
ed for sale of lands many years. He found
almost everywhere, wrong notions prevailing.
The people were not aware of the immense
extent of the public domain now in market,
and ready to be sold at one dollar and twenty-
jive cents per acre, and even in as small tracts
as forty acres. Take for example, the Ed-
wards ville district, in which the writer re-
sides. It extends south to the base line, east
to the third principal meridian, north to the
line that separates townships 13 and 14 north,
and west to the Illinois and Mississippi rivers,
and embraces all the counties of Madison,
Clinton, Bond, Montgomery, Macouper, and
Greene, a tier of townships on the south side
of Morgan and Sangamon, five and a half town-
ships from Fayette, and about half of St. Clair
county. The lands for a part of this district
have been in market for 18 or 20 years; — it
contains some of the oldest American settle-
ments in the state, and has also a number of
confined claims never offered for sale. And
yet the receiver of this office informed me in
November last, that he had just made returns
of all the lands sold in this district^ and they
FOR EMIGRANTS. 141
amounted to just one third of the whole quantity.
Every man, therefore, may take it for granted
that there will be land enough in market in all
the new states, for his use, during the present
generation. These are facts that should be
known to all classes. The mania of land
speculation and of monopolists would soon
subside, were those concerned to sit down
coolly, and after ascertaining the amount of
public lands now in market, with the vast ad-
ditional quantity that must soon come into
market, use a few figures in common arithmetic,
with the probable amount of emigration, and
ascertain the probable extent of the demand
for this article at any future period.
The following information is necessary for
those who are not acquainted with our land
system.
In each land office there are a Register and
Receiver, appointed by the President and
Senate for the term of four years, and paid by
the government.
After being surveyed, the land, by pro-
clamation of the President, is offered for sale
at public auction by half quarter sections, or
tracts of 80 acres. If no one bids for it at one
dollar and twenty-five cents per acre, or more,
it is subject to private entry at any time after,
upon payment of ^1 25 cents per acre at the
itime of entry. J\h credit in any case is allowed.
In many cases. Congress, by special statute,
has granted to actual settlers, pre-emption
rrights, where settlements and improvements.
6*
142 peck's guide
have been made on public lands previous to
public sale.
Pre-emption rights confer the privilege only
of purchasing the tract containing improve-
ments at one dollar and twenty-five cents per
acre, by the possessor, without the risk of a
public sale.
In Illinois and several other western states,
all lands purchased of the general government,
are exempted from taxation for five years after
purchase.
Military Bounty lands.— These lands were
surveyed and appropriated as bounties to the
soldiers in the war with Great Britain in 1812
— '15, to encourage enlistments. The selec-
tions were made in Illinois, Missouri, and
Arkansas. The Bounty lands of Illinois lie
between the Illinois and Mississippi rivers, in
the counties of Calhoun, Pike, Adams, Schuy-
ler, Macdonough, Warren, Mercer, Knox,
Henry, Fulton, Peoria, and Putnam. Out of
five millions of acres, 3,500,000 were selected,
including about three-fifths of this tract. The
remainder is disposed of in the manner of
other public lands. The disposition of this
fine country for military bounties has much
retarded its settlement. It was a short-sighted
and mistaken policy of government that dic-
tated this measure. Most of the titles have
long since departed from the soldiers for whose
benefit the donations were made. Many thou-
sand quarter sections have been sold for taxes
by the state, have fallen into the hands of
FOR EMIGRANTS. 148
monopolists, and are now past redemption.
The Bounty lands in Missouri, lie on the
waters of Chariton and Grand rivers, north
side of the Missouri river and in the counties
of Chariton, Randolph, Carroll, and Ray, and
include half a million of acres. The tract is
generally fertile, undulating, a mixture of
timber and prairie, but not as well watered as
desirable. With the bounty lands of Arkansas
I am not well acquainted. Their general
character is good, and some tracts are rich
cotton lands.
Taxes. — Lands bought of the U. S. govern-
ment are exempted from taxation for five years
after sale. All other lands owned by non-
residents, equally with those of residents, are
subject to taxation annually, either for state, or
county purposes, or both. The mode and
amount varies in each state. If not paid when
due, costs are added, the lands sold, subject
to redemption within a limited period; —
generally two years. Every non-resident land-
holder should employ an agent within the state
where his land lies, to look after it and pay his
taxes, if he would not suffer the loss of his land.
144
CHAPTER VI.
ABORIGINES.
Conjecture respecting their former numbers and condition.
Present number and state. — Indian Territory appropriated
as their permanent residence. — Plan and operations of
the U. S. Government. — Missionary efforts and stations.
Monuments and Antiquities.
The idea is entertained, that the Valley of
the Mississippi, was once densely populated by
aborigines; — that here were extensive nations,
— that the bones of many millions lie moulder-
ing under our feet. It has become a common
theory, that previous to the settlement of the
country by people of European descent, there
were hvo successive races of men, quite dis-
tinct from each other; — that the first race, by
some singular fatality, became exterminated,
leaving no traditionary account of their exist-
ence. And the second race, the ancestors of
the existing race of Indians, are supposed to
have been once, far more numerous than the
present white population of the Valley,
Some parts of Mexico and South America,
FOU EMIGRANTS. 145
were found to be populous upon the first visits
of the Spaniards; but I do not find satisfactory-
evidence that population was ever dense, in any
part of the territory that now constitutes our
Republic. Mr. Atvvater supposes, from the
mounds in Ohio, the Indian population far ex-
ceeded 700,000, at one time in that district.
Mr. Flint says, "If we can infer nothing else
from the mounds, we can clearly infer, that
this country once had its millions." Hence, a
principal argument assigned for the populous-
nessofthis country is, the millions buried in these
tumuli, the bones of which, in a tolerable state
of preservation, are supposed to be exhibited
upon excavation. The writer has witnessed
the opening of many of these mounds, and
has seen the fragments of an occasional skele-
ton, found near the surface. Without stopping
here to enter upon a disquisition on the hy-
pothesis assumed, that these mounds, as they
are termed, are as much the results of natural
causes, as any other prominences on the sur-
face of the globe: I will only remark, that it is
a fact well known to frontier men, that the
Indians have been in the habit of burying their
dead on these ridges and hillocks, and that in
our light, spongy soil, the skeleton decays
surprisingly fast. This is not the place to
exhibit the necessary data, that have led to the
conviction, that not a human skeleton now
exists in all the western Valley, (excepting in
nitrous caves,) that was deposited in the earth
146 peck's guide
before the discovery of the New World, by
Columbus.
The opinion that this Valley was once
densely populous, is sustained from the sup-
posed military works, distributed through the
West. This subject, as well as that of
mounds, wants re-examination. Probably,
half a dozen enclosures, in a rude form, might
have been used for military defence. The
capabilities of the country to sustain a dense
population, has been used to support the posi-
tion, that it must have been once densely
populated. This argues nothing without vesti-
ges of agriculture and the arts. With the
exception of a few small patches, around the
Indian villages, for corn and pulse, the whole
land was an unbroken wilderness. Strangers
to the subject have imagined that our western
prairies must once have been subdued by the
hand of cultivation, because denuded of timber.
Those who have long lived on them, have the
evidences of observation, and their senses, to
guide them. They know that the earth will
not produce timber, while the surface is cov-
ered with a firm grassy sward, and that timber
will spring up, as soon as this obstruction is
removed.
To all these theories, of the former density
of the aboriginal population of the Valley, I
oppose, first, the fact that but a scattered and
erratic population was found here, on the arri-
val of the Europeans, — that the people were
FOR EMIGRANTS. 147
rude savages, subsisting chiefly by hunting,
and that no savage people ever became popu-
lous,— that from time immemorial, the different
tribes had been continually at war with each
other, — -that but a few years before the French
explored it, the Iroquois, or Five nations, con-
quered all the country to the Mississippi, which
they could not have done had it been populous,
and that Kentucky, one of the finest portions
of the Valley, was not inhabited by any peo-
ple, but the common hunting and fighting
grounds of both the northern and southern
Indians, and hence called by them, Kentuckee,
or the ^' Bloody ground."*
That the Indian character has deteriorated,
and the numbers of each tribe greatly lessen-
ed by contact with Europeans and their
descendants, is not questioned; but many of
the descriptions of the comforts and happiness
of savage life and manners, before their coun-
try was possessed by the latter, are the exag-
gerated and glowing descriptions of poetic
fancy. Evidence enough can be had to show
that they were degraded and wretched, en-
gaged in petty exterminating wars with each
* See Pownal's Administration of the British Coloniesj —
Colden's History of the Five Nations, — New York Histor-
ical Collections, vol. II., — Charlevoix Histoire de la Nou-
velle France, — Hon. De Witt Clinton's Discourse before
the N. Y. Historical Society, 1811, — Discovery of the
Mississippi river, by Father Lewis Hennepin, — M. Fonti's
Account of M. De La Salle's Expedition, — La Harpe's
Journal, &c.
148 PECK S GUIDE.
other, often times in a state of starvation, and
leading a roving, indolent and miserable exist-
ence. Their government was anarchy. —
Properly speaking, civil government had never
existed amongst them. They had no executive,
or judiciary power, and their legislation was
the result of their councils held by aged and
experienced men. It had no stronger claim
upon the obedience of the people than advice.
In Mexico, civilization had made progress,
and there were populous towns and cities, and
edifices for religious and other purposes.
With the exception of some very rude struc-
tures, the ruins of which yet remain, and
which upon too slight grounds, have been mis-
taken for military works, nothing is left as
marks of the enterprise of the feeble bands of
Indians of this Valley. Their implements,
utensils, weapons of war, and water-craft,
were of the most rude and simple construction,
and yet prepared with great labor. Those
who have written upon Indian manners, with-
out personal and long acquaintance with their
circumstances, have made extravagant blun-
ders. The historian of America, Dr. Rob-
ertson, seems to suppose that the Indians cut
down large trees, and dug out canoes with
stone hatchets, — and that they cleared the
timber from their small fields, by the same
tedious process. Their stone axes or hatchets,
were never used for cuttings but only for split-
ting and pounding. They burned down and
hollowed out trees by fire, for canoes, and
FOR EMIGRANTS. 149
never chopped off the timber, but only dead-
ened it, in clearing land. The condition of
depraved man, unimproved by habits of civil-
ization, and unblest with the influences and
consolations of the gospel, is pitiable in the
extreme. Such was the character and condi-
tion of the '^ Red skin," before his land wa&
visited by the "Pale faces." I have often
seen the aboriginal man in all his primeval
wildness, when he first came in contact with
the evils and benefits of civilization, — have
admired his noble form and lofty bearing, —
listened to his untutored and yet powerfijl elo-
quence, and yet have found in him the same
humbling and melancholy proofs of his wretch-
edness and v/ant, as is found in the remnants
on our borders.
The introduction of ardent spirits, and of
several diseases, are the evils furnished the
Indian race, by contact with the whites, while
in other respects their condition has been im-
proved.
From the second number of the ^' Arinual
Register' of Indian Jlffairs^ within the Indian (or
western^ Territory,'''' just published by the Rev.
Isaac McCoy, the following particulars have
been chiefly gleaned:
Mr. McCoy has been devoted to the work of
Indian reform for almost twenty years, first
in Indiana, then in Michigan, and latterly in
the Indian territory, west of Missouri and
Arkansas. He is not only intimately acquainted ,
with the peculiar circumstances of this un-
7
150 peck's guide
fortunate race, and with the country selected
as their future residence by the government,
but is ardently and laboriously engaged for
their welfare.
INDIAN TERRITORY.
The Indian territory Ues west and imme-
diately adjacent to Missouri and Arkansas. It
is about 600 miles long from north to south,
extending from the Missouri river to the Red
river, and running westwardly as far as the
country is habitable, which is estimated to be
about 200 miles. The almost destitution of
timber, with extensive deserts, renders most of
the country from this territory to the Rocky
mountains uninhabitable. The dreams in-
dulged by many, that the wave of white popu-
lation is to move onward without any resisting
barrier, till it reaches these mountains, and
even overleap them to the Pacific ocean, will
never be realized. Providence has thrown a
desert of several hundred miles in extent, as
an opposing barrier.
As very contradictory accounts have gone
abroad, prejudicial to the character of the
country selected for the Indians, it becomes
necessary to describe it with some particulari-
ty. The following, from Mr. McCoy (if it
needed any additional support to its correct-
ness,) is corroborated by the statements of
many disinterested persons.
^^ There is a striking similarity between all
parts of this territory. In its general charac-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 151
ter, it is high and undulating, rather level than
hilly; though small portions partly deserve
the latter appellation. The soil is generally
very fertile. It is thought that in no part of
the world ^ so extensive a region of rich soil
has been discovered as in this, of which the
Indian territory is a central position. It is
watered by numerous rivers, creeks and rivu-
lets. Its waters pass through it eastwardly,
none of which are favorable to navigation.
There is less marshy and stagnant water in it
than is usual in the western country. The
atmosphere is salubrious, and the climate pre-
cisely such as is desirable, being about the
same as that inhabited by the Indians on the
east of the Mississippi. It contains much
mineral coal and salt water, some lead, and
some iron ore. Timber is too scarce, and this
is a serious defect, but one which time will
remedy, as has been demonstrated by the
growth of timber in prairie countries which
have been settled, where the grazing of stock,
by diminishing the quantity of grass, renders
the annual fires less destructive to the growth
of wood. The prairie (i. e., land destitute of
wood) is covered with grass, much of which
is of suitable length for the scythe."
The Chocktaws, Creeks, Cherokees, Osages,
Kanzaus and Delawares, are entitled to lands
westward of this territory for hunting grounds;
some to the western boundary of the United
States, others to the Rocky mountains.
152 peck's guide
Mr. McCoy estimates the number of inhabit-
ants of this territory at 47,733.
INDIGENOUS TRIBES.
Osage, about 5,510
Kanzau, " 1,684
Ottoe and Missourias, 1,600
O'Mahaus, 1,400
Pawnees, four tribes, 10,000
Puncahs, about 800
Quapaws, '' 450
21,444
EMIGRANT TRIBES.
Chocktaw, about 15,000
Cherokee, '^ 4,000
Creek, " 3,600
Seneca, Shawanoe of Neosho, 462
Wea, about 225.
Piankeshau, 119
Peoria and Kaskaskias, ... 135
Ottawa, 81
Shawanoe of Kanzau river, . 764'
Delaware, 856
Kickapoo, 603
Putawatomie, 444
Emigrants, 26,289
Indigenous, . . . 21,444
Total, . 47,733
The estimate of the Chocktaws include
about 400 negro slaves, — that of the Cherokees
500, and that of the Creeks about 450 slaves.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 153
ChocMaws. Their country adjoins Red riv-
er and the Province of Texas on the south,
Arkansas on the east, and extends north to the
Arkansas and Canadian rivers, being 150
miles from north to south, and 200 miles from
east to west. Here are numerous salt springs.
For civil purposes, their country is divided into
three districts.
Cherokees. The boundaries of their coun-
try commences on the Arkansas river, opposite
the western boundary of Arkansas Territory; —
thence northwardly along the line of Missouri,
8 miles to Seneca river; — thence west to the
Neosho river; — thence up said river to the
Osage lands; — thence west indefinitely, as far
as habitable; — thence south to the Creek lands,
and along the eastern line of the Creeks to a
point 43 miles west of the Territory of Arkan-
sas, and 25 miles nor.th of Arkansas river; —
thence to the Verdigris river, and down Arkan-
sas river, to the mouth of the Neosho; — thence
southwardly to the junction of the North Fork
and Canadian rivers; — and thence down the
Canadian and Arkansas rivers to the place of
beginning. The treaty of 1828, secures to
this tribe 7,000,000 of acres, and adds land
westward for hunting grounds as far as the
U. S. boundaries extend.
The Creeks, or Muscogees, occupy the coun-
try west of Arkansas that lies between the
lands of the Chocktaws and Cherokees.
The Senecas join the State of Missouri on
154 PECK S GUIDE
the east, with the Cherokees south, the Neosho
river west, and possess 127,500 acres.
The Osage (a French corruption of Wos-
sosh-ee, their proper name, which has again
been corrupted by Darby and others into
Ozark) have their country north of the west-
ern portion of the Cherokee lands, commencing
25 miles west of the State of Missouri, with a
width of 50 miles, and extending indefinitely
west. About half the tribe are in the Chero-
kee country.
The Quapaivs were originally connected
with the Osages. They have migrated from
the lower Arkansas, and have their lands ad-
joining the State of Missouri, immediately north
of the Senecas.
The Putawatomies are on the north-eastern
side of the Missouri river, but they are not
satisfied, and the question of their locality is
not fully settled . 444 Putawatomies are mingled
with the Kickapoos, on the south-west side of
the Missouri river.
The Weas, Piankeshaws, Peorias and Kas-
kaskias are remnants of the great western con-
federacy, of which the Miamies were the most
prominent branch. These and other tribes con-
stituted the mini, Oillinois, or Illinois nation,
that once possessed the country now included
in the great States of Indiana, Illinois, &c.
Their lands lie west of the State of Missouri,
and south-west of the Missouri river.
The Delawares occupy a portion of the coun-
try in the forks of the Kanzau river, (or, as
FOR EMIGRANTS. 155
written by the French, Kansas.) They are the
remnants of another great confederacy, the
Le,nni-Lenopi, as denominated by themselves.
The lands of the Kickapoos lie north of the
Delawares, and along the Missouri, including
768,000 acres.
The Ottoes occupy a tract of country between
the Missouri and Platte rivers, but their land
is said to extend south and below the Platte.
The country of the O'Mahaus has the Platte
river on the south, and the Missouri north-east.
The country of the Pawnees lies to the west-
ward of the Ottoes and O'Mahaus. The boun-
daries are not defined.
The Puncahs are a small tribe that originated
from the Pawnees, and live in the northern
extremity of the country spoken of as the
Indian territory.
Present Condition. — The Chocktaws, Chero-
kees and Creeks are more advanced in
civilized habits then any other tribes. They
have organized local governments of their
own, have enacted some wholesome laws, live
in comfortable houses, raise horses, cattle,
sheep and swine, cultivate the gound, have
good fences, dress like Americans, and manu-
facture much of their own clothing. They
have schools and religious privileges, by
missionary efforts, to a limited extent. The
Cherokees have a written language, perfect in
its form, the invention of Mr. Guess, a full-
blooded Indian. The Senecas, Delawares,
and Shawanoes, also, are partially civilized,
166 peck's guide
and live with considerable comfort from the
produce of their fields and stock. The
Putawatomies, Weas, Piankeshaws, Peorias,
Kaskaskias, Ottawas, and Kickapoos, have
partially adopted civilized customs. Some
live in comfortable log cabins, fence and
cultivate the ground, and have a supply of
stock; others live in bark huts, and are wretch-
ed. The Osages or W'os-sosh-ees, Quapaws,
Kanzaus, Ottoes, O'Mahaus, Pawnees and
Punchas have made much less improvement in
their mode of living. A few have adopted
civilized habits, and are rising in the scale of
social and individual comforts, but the larger
portion are yet Indians.
Mr. McCoy estimates the whole number of
aborigines in North America, including those
of Mexico, at 1,800,000, of which 10,000 are
so far improved as to be classed v»^ith civilized
men, and amongst whom, there are as many
pious Christians, as amongst the same amount
of population in the United States. In ad-
dition to these, he estimates that there may be
about 60,000 more, ''which may have made
advances toward civilization, some more and
some less."
For some years past, the policy of the govern-
ment of the United States has been directed to
the project of removing all the Indians from
the country organized into States and Territo-
ries, and placing them sufficiently contiguous
to be easily governed, and yet removed from di-
rect contact and future'interruption from white
FOR EMIGRANTS. 157
population. This project was recommended
in the period of Mr. Monroe's administration,
was further considered and some progress made
under that of Mr. Adams, but has been carried
into more successful execution within the last
five years. It is much to be regretted that
this project was not commenced earlier. The
residence of small bands of Indians, with their
own feeble and imperfect government, carried
on within any organized state or territory, is
ruinous. Those who argue that because of the
removal of the Indians from within the jurisdic-
tion of the states, or an organized territory,
therefore they will be driven back from the
country in which it is now proposed to place
them, evince but a very partial and imperfect
view of the subject. The present operation of
government is an experiment, and it is one
that ought to receive a fair and full trial. If
it does not succeed, I know not of any govern-
mental regulation that can result, with success,
to the prosperity of the Indians. The project
is to secure to each tribe, by patent, the lands
allotted them, — to form them into a territorial
government, with some features of the rep-
resentative principle, — to have their whole
country under the supervision of our govern-
ment, as their guardian, for their benefit, — to
allow no white men to pass the lines and inter-
mix with the Indians, except those who are
licensed by due authority, — to aid them in
adopting civilized habits, provide for them
schools and other means of improving their
158 peck's guide
condition, and, through the agency of mis-
sionary societies, to instruct them in the prin-
ciples of the gospel of Christ.
Missionary Efforts and Stations. — These are
conducted by the American Board of Com-
missioners for Foreign Missions, — the Baptist
Board of F. Missions, — the Methodist Epis.
Missionary Society, — the Western Foreign
Missionary Society, — and the Cumberland
Presbyterians. Stations have been formed,
and schools established, with most of these
tribes. About 2,500 are members of Christian
churches of different denominations. The
particulars of these operations are to be found
in the Reports of the respective societies, and
the various religious periodicals.
Of other tribes within the Valley of the
Mississippi, and not yet within the Indian
territory, the following estimate is sufficiently
near the truth for practical purposes.
Indians from New York , about Green Bay 725
Wyandots in Ohio and Michigan 623
Miamies 1 ,200
Winnebagoes 4,59 1
Chippeways, or O'Jibbeways 6,793
Ottawas and Chippeways of lake Michigan 5,300
Chippeways, Ottawas and Putawatomies 8,000
Putawatomies 1 ,400
Menominees 4,200
They are all east of the Mississippi, and
chiefly found on the reservations in Ohio,
Indiana, and Michigan, and in the country
between the Wisconsin river and lake Superior.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 159
Those tribes west of the Mississippi river, and
along the region of the upper Missouri river,
are as follows:
Sioux 27,500
loways 1,200
Sauks of Missouri 500
Sauks and Foxes 6,400
Assinaboines 8,000
Crees 3,000
Gros Ventres 3,000
Aurekaras 3,000
Cheyennes 2,000
Mandans 1 ,500
Black Feet 30,000
Camanches 7,000
Minatarees 1 ,500
Crows 4,500
Arrepahas and Kiawas 1 ,400
Caddoes 800
Snake and other tribes within the Rocky
mountains 20,000
West of the Rocky mountains 80,000
The Camanches, Arrepahas, Kiawas and
Caddoes roam over the great plains towards
the sources of the Arkansas and Red rivers,
and through the northern parts of Texas. The
Black Feet are towards the heads of the Mis-
souri.
Monuments and Antiquities. — Before dismiss-
ing the subject of the aborigines, I shall touch
very briefly on the monuments and antiquities
of the west, — with strong convictions that there
has been much exaggeration on this subject.
160 peck's guide
I have already intimated that the mounds of
the west are natural formations, but I have
not room for the circumstances and facts that
go to sustain this theory. The number of ob-
jects considered as antiquities is greatly ex-
aggerated. The imaginations of men have
done much. The number of mounds on the
American bottom in Illinois, adjacent to Cahokia
creek, is stated by Mr. Flint at 200. The
writer has counted all the elevations of surface
for the extent of nine miles, and they amount to
72. One of these. Monk hill, is much too
large, and three fourths of the rest are quite
too small for human labor. The pigmy graves
on the Merrimeek, Mo., in Tennessee, and
other places, upon closer inspection, have been
found to contain decayed skeletons of the
ordinary size, but buried with the leg and thigh
bones in contact. The giant skeletons some-
times found, are the bones of buffaloe.
It is much easier for waggish laborers to
deposit old horse shoes and other iron articles
where they are at work, for the special pleasure
of digging them up for credulous antiquarians,
than to find proofs of the existence of the
horses that wore them !
There may, or may not, be monuments and
antiquities that belong to a race of men of
prior existence to the present race of Indians.
All that the writer urges is, that this subject
may not be considered as settled; that due
allowance may be made for the extreme cre-
dulity of some, and the want of personal ob-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 161
servation and examination of other writers on
this subject. Gross errors have been com-
mitted, and exaggerations of very trivial cir-
cumstances have been made.
The antiquities belonging to the Indian race
are neither numerous or interesting, unless we
except the remains of rude edifices and en-
closures, the walls of which are almost in-
variably embankments of earth. They are
rude axes and knives of stone, bottles and
vessels of potter's ware, arrow and spear heads,
rude ornaments, &c.
Roman, French, Italian, German and En-
glish coins and medals, with inscriptions, have
been found, — most unquestionably brought by
Europeans, — probably by the Jesuits and other
orders, who were amongst the first explorers of
the west, and who had their religious houses
here more than a century past.
Copper and silver ornaments have been
discovered in the mounds that have been open-
ed. The calumet, or large stone pipe, is often
found in Indian graves. Two facts deserve to
be regarded by those who examine mounds
and Indian cemeteries. First, that the Indians
have been accustomed to bury their dead in
these mounds. Secondly, that they were ac-
customed to place various ornaments, utensils,
weapons, and other articles of value, the pro-
perty of the deceased, in these graves, es-
pecially if a chieftain, or man of note. A
third fact known to our frontier people , is the
custom of several Indian tribes wrapping their
dead in strips of bark, or encasing them with
the halves of a hollow log, and placing them in
the forks of trees This was the case specially,
when their deaths occurred while on hunting or
war parties. At stated seasons these relics
were collected^ with much solemnity, brought
to the common sepulchre of the tribe, and
deposited with their ancestors. This accounts
for the confused manner in which the bones
are often found in mounds and Indian grave-
yards. Human skeletons, or rather mummies,
have been discovered in the nitrous caves of
Kentucky. The huge bones of the mammoth
and other enormous animals, have been ex-
humed, at the Bigbone licks in Kentucky and in
other places.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 163
CHAPTER VII
WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA.
The portion of Pennsylvania lying west of
the Alleghany ridge, contains the counties of
Washington, Greene, Fayette, Westmoreland,
Alleghany, Beaver, Butler, Armstrong, Mer-
cer, Venango, Crawford, Erie, Warren, Mc-
Kean, Jefferson, Indiana, Somerset, and apart
of Cambria.
Face of the Country. — Somerset, and parts of
Fayette, Westmoreland, Cambria, Indiana,
Jefferson, -and McKean are mountainous, with
intervening vallies of rich, arable land. The
hilly portions of Washington, and portions of
Fayette, Westmoreland, and Alleghany coun-
ties are fertile, with narrow vales of rich land
intervening. The hills are of various shapes
and heights, and the ridges are not uniform,
but pursue various and different directions.
North of Pittsburg, the country is hilly and
broken, but not mountainous, and the bottom
lands on the water courses are wider and more
fertile. On French creek, and other branches
of the Alleghany river there are extensive
164 peck's guide
tracts of rich bottom, or intervale lands, cover*
ed with beech, birch, sugar maple, pine, hem-
lock, and other trees common to that por-
tion of the United States. The pine forests in
Pennsylvania and New York, about the heads
of the Alleghany river, produce vast quantities
of lumber, which are sent annually to all the
towns along the Ohio and Mississippi rivers.
It is computed that not less than thirty million
feet of lumber are annually sent down the Ohio
from this source.
Soil J Agi'iculture , Sfc. — Portions of the coun-
try are excellent for farming. The glade lands,
as they are called, in Greene and other coun-
ties, produce oats, grass, &c., but are not so
good for wheat and corn. Those counties
which lie towards lake Erie are better adapted
to grazing. Great numbers of cattle are raised
here. Washington and other counties south
of Pittsburg produce great quantities of wool.
The Monongahela has been famous for its
whiskey, but it is gratifying to learn that it is
greatly on the decline, and that its manufac-
ture begins to be regarded as it should be, —
ruinous to society. A large proportion of the
distilleries are reported to have been aban-
doned. Bituminous coal abounds in all the
hills around Pittsburg, and over most parts of
Western Pennsylvania. Iron ore is found
abundantly in the counties along the Allegha-
ny, and many furnaces and forges are employ-
ed in its manufactory. Salt springs abound on
the Alleghany, and especially on the Cone-
I
FOR EMIGRANTS. 165
maugh and Kiskimiiiitas, where salt, in large
quantities, is manufactured.
Tile natural advantages of Western Penn-
sylvania are great. Almost every knoll, hill
and mountain can be turned to some good ac-
count, and its rivers, canals, rail and turnpike
roads afford facilities for intercommunication,
and for transportation of the productions to a
foreign market. The advantages of this region
for trade, agriculture, raising stock, and manu-
facturing, are great. The streams furnish
abundant mill-seats, the air is salubrious, and the
morals of the community good. Till recently,
Pennsylvania has been neglectful to provide
for common schools. A school system is now
in successful operation, and has a strong hold
on the confidence and affections of the people
in this part of the State.
Interned Improvements. Pennsylvania has
undertaken an immense system of internal im-
provements, throughout the State. The Alle-
ghany portage rail-road commences at Holli-
daysburgh, on the Juniata river, at the termi-
nation of the eastern division of the great
Pennsylvania canal, and crosses the Alleghany
ridge at Blair's Gap, summit 37 miles, to Johns-
town on the Conemaugh. Here it connects
with the western division of the same canal.
It ascends and descends the mountain by five
inclined planes on each side, overcoming in
ascent and descent 2570 feet, 1398 of which
are on the eastern, and 1172 on the western
side of the mountain. 563 feet are overcome
7*
166 feck's guide
by grading, and 2007 feet by the planes. On
this hne, also, are four extensive viaducts, and
a tunnel 870 feet long, and 20 feet wide, through
the staple bend of the Conemaugh river. The
western division of the Pennsylvania canal
commences at Johnstown, on the Conemaugh,
pursues the course of that stream, and ajso that
of the Kiskiminitas and Alleghany rivers, and
finally terminates at Pittsburg. In its course
from Johnstown it passes through the towns of
Fairfield, Lockport, Blairsville, Saltzburg,
Warren, Leechburg, and Freeport, most of
which are small villages, but increasing in size
and business. "■ The canal is 104 miles in
length: lockage 471 feet, 64 locks, (exclusive
of four on a branch canal to the Alleghany,)
10 dams, 1 tunnel, 16 aqueducts, 64 culverts,
39 waste-wiers, and 152 bridges.
'' The canal commissioners, in their reports
to the legislature, strongly recommend the ex-
tension of this division to the town of Beaver,
so as to unite with the Beaver division. By a
recent survey, the distance was ascertained to
be 25.065 miles, and the estimated cost of
construction, ^263,821. This, with a proposed
canal from Newcastle to Akron, on the Ohio
and Erie canal, will form a continuous inland
communication between Philadelphia and New
Orleans, of 2435 miles, with the exception
of the passage over the Alleghany portage
rail-road, of 36.69 miles in length.* It is
* See " Mitchell's Compendium of the Internal Improve-
ments in the United States," where much valuable informa-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 167
395 miles from Philadelphia to Pittsburg by this
canal.
The Beaver division of the Pennsylvania
canal commences at the town of Beaver, on the
Ohio river, at the junction of the Big Beaver
river, 25-i miles below Pittsburg, ascends
the valley of that river, thence up the Chenan-
go creek to its termination in Mercer county,
a distance of 42.68 miles. This work, together
with a feeder on French creek, and other
works now in progress, are parts of a canal in-
tended eventually to connect the Ohio river
with lake Erie, at the town of Erie; which,
when finished, will probably be about 130 miles
in length. It is also proposed to construct a
canal from Newcastle, on the Beaver division,
24.75 miles above the town of Beaver, along
the valley of the Mahoning river, to Akron,
near the portage summit of the Ohio and Erie
canal, 85 miles in length, 8 miles of which are
in Pennsylvania, and the residue in Ohio. Es-
timated cost, $J;764,372.
The Cumberland, or National road, crosses
the south-western part of Pennsylvania. It
passes through Brownsville where it crosses
the Monongahela river, and Washington, into
a corner of Virginia to Wheeling, where it
crosses the Ohio river, and from thence through
Ohio, Indiana and Illinois to the Mississippi
river, or perhaps to the western boundary of
Missouri.
tion of the rail-roads and canals of the United States is found
in a small space.
168 peck's guide
Chief Toivns. — Brownsville^ situated on the
east side of the Monongahela river^ is in a ro-
mantic country, surrounded with rich farms and
line orchards, and contains about 1200 inhabit-
ants. It is at the head of steamboat naviga-
tion. Washington is the county seat of Wash-
ington county, surrounded with a fertile but
hilly country, contains about 2000 inhabitants,
and has a respectable college. Cannonshurgh
is situated on the west side of Chartier's creek,
8 miles north of Washington. It also has a
flourishing college, with buildings in an ele-
vated and pleasant situation. JJnionioivn is the
county seat of Fayette, on the National road,
and contains about 1500 inhabitants. Greens-
burg is the seat of justice for Westmoreland
county, on the great turnpike road from Phila-
delphia by Harrisburg to Pittsburg, and has
about 850 inhabitants. Beaver is situated at
the mouth of Big Beaver, on the Ohio, with a
population of 1000 or 1200, and is a place of
considerable business. Meadville is the seat
of justice for Crawford county, situated near
French creek, and has about 1200 inhab-
itants. Here is a college established by the
Rev. Mr. Alden, some years since, to which
the late Dr. Bentley of Salem, Mass., bequeath-
ed a valuable library. It is now under the
I)atronage of the Methodist Episcopal church.
Erie is a thriving town, situated on the south
side of lake Erie, one hundred and twenty
miles north of Pittsburg. Steamboats that pass
up the lake from Buffalo, usually stop here,
FOR EMIGRANTS. 169
from whence stage routes communicate with
Pittsburg, and many other towns in the interior.
The portage from this place to the navigable
waters of the Alleghany river is fifteen miles
over a turnpike road. The population of Erie
is from 1500 to 2000, and increasing.
Waterford, the place where the Erie portage
terminates, is situated on the north bank of the
French creek; it is a place of considerable
business. French creek is a navigable branch
of the Alleghany river. Franklin, Kittanning,
and Freeporty are respectable towns on the Al-
leghany river, between Pittsburg and Mead-
ville.
Eco7iomy is the seat of the German colony,
under the late Mr. Rapp, which emigrated
from their former residence of Harmony on
the Wabash river in Indiana. It is a flourish-
ing town on the right bank of the Ohio, 18
miles below Pittsburg. It has several facto-
ries, a large church, a spacious hotel, and 800
or 900 inhabitants, living in a community form,
under some singular regulations. The Econo-
mists, or Harmonists, as they were called, in
Indiana, are an industrious, moral and enter-
prising community, with some peculiarities in
their religious notions. There are many other
towns and villages in Western Pennsylvania,
of moral, industrious inhabitants, which the
limits of this work will not permit me to no-
tice.
Pittsburg is the emporium of Western
Pennsylvania, and from its manufacturing en-
170 peck's guide
terprise, especially in iron wares, has been
denominated the ^ ^Birmingham of the West."
It stands on the land formed at the junction of
the Monongahela and Alleghany rivers , on a lev el
alluvion deposit, but entirely above the highest
waters, surrounded with hills. This place was
selected as the site of a fort and trading depot
by the French, about eighty years since, and
a small stockade erected, and called Fort du
Quesne, to defend the country against the oc-
cupancy of it by the English, and to monopo-
lize the Indian trade. It came into the pos-
session of the British upon the conquest of this
country after the disastrous defeat of Gen.
Braddock; and under the administration of the
elder Pitt, a fort was built here under the
superintendence of lord Stanwix, that cost
more than ^260,000, and called Fort Pitt. In
1760, a considerable town arose around the
fort, surrounded with beautiful gardens and
orchards, but it decayed on the breaking out
of the Indian war, in 1763. The origin of the
present town may be dated 1765. Its plan was
enlarged and re-surveyed in 1784, and then
belonged to the Penn family as a part of their
hereditary manor. By them it was sold.
The Indian wars in the West retarded its
growth for several years after, but since, it has
steadily increased, according to the following
for emigrants. 171
Table.
1800, 1,565
1810, 4,768
1820, 7,248
1830, 12,542
1835, estimated^ 30,000
The estimate of 1835, includes the suburbs.
The town is compactly built, and some streets
are handsome; but the use of coal for culinary
and manufacturing purposes, gives the town a
most dingy and gloomy aspect. Its salubrity
and admirable situation for commerce and
manufactures ensure its future prosperity and
increase of population. The exhaustless beds
of coal in the bluffs of the Monongahela, and
of iron ore, which is found in great abundance
in all the mountainous regions of Western
Pennsylvania, give it preeminence over other
western cities for manufacturing purposes. It
really stands at the head of steamboat naviga-
tion on the waters of the Ohio ; for the Allegha-
ny and Monongahela rivers are navigable only
at high stages of water, and by the recent im-
provements in the channel of the Ohio, and
the use of light draft boats, the navigation to
Pittsburg is uninterrupted except in winter.
The suburbs of Pittsburg are Birmingham,
on the south bank of the Monongahela, Alle-
ghany town, on the opposite side of the Alle-
ghany river, and containing a population of
about seven thousand, Lawrenceville, Northern
and Eastern Liberties.
172 peck's guide
Manufactures.
Nail Factories and Rolling Mills. Weight in lbs. Value.
Union, 720,000 $43,200
Sligo, 400,000 32,000
Pittsburg, 782,887 86^544
Grant's Hill, 500,000 20,000
Juniata, 500,000 30,000
Pine Creek, 457,000 34,100
Miscellaneous factories, 360,000 28,200
The foregoing table was constructed in 1831.
Doubtless this branch of business has greatly
increased.
The same year there were 12 foundries in
and near Pittsburg, which converted 2963 tons
of metal into castings, employed 132 hands,
consumed 87,000 bushels of charcoal, and pro-
duced the value of $189,614.
The following sketch of manufactures in
Pittsburg and vicinity, is copied from Tanner's
Guide, pubhshed in 1832 :
Steam engines 37, which employed 123 hands.
Value, $180,400.
Cotton factories 8, with 369 power-looms,
598 hands; value, $300,134. In the counties
of Westmoreland and Alleghany, there are
5 cotton factories.
In Pittsburg and the two counties just named,
are 8 paper mills, valued at $165,000.
In Pittsburg and vicinity are 5 steam mills,
which employ 50 hands. Value of their pro-
ducts annually, $80,000.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 173
There are 5 brass foundries and 8 copper-
smiths' shops. Value of the manufactures,
$25,000.
Within the limits of the city, there are 30
blacksmiths' shops, which employ 136 hands.
There are also 4 gunsmiths, and 9 silversmiths
and watch repairers.
In Pittsburg and the counties of Westmore-
land and Alleghany, there are 26 saddleries,
and 41 tanneries, 64 brick yards, and 11 pot-
teries. There are in the city 4 breweries,
and 4 white lead manufactories, at which 7,400
kegs are made annually; value, g27,900.
There are 6 printing-offices in Pittsburg,
and 6 more in the two counties.
The estimated value of the manufactures of
every kind in Pittsburg, and the counties of
Alleghany and W^estmoreland, in 1831, was
g3, 978, 469.
Doubtless they have greatly increased since.
Coal. The bituminous coal formations
around Pittsburg are well deserving the atten-
tion of geologists. Coal Hill, on the west side
of the Monongahela, and immediately opposite
Pittsburg, is the great source of this species of
fuel, and the miners, in some places, have per-
forated the hill to the distance of several hun-
dred feet. It is found in strata from 6 inches
to 10 or 12 feet in thickness, and often at the
height of 300 feet above the bed of the river, in
the hills around Pittsburg, and along the course
of the Alleghany and Monongahela. Below
8
174 peck's guide
this one stratum, which is of equal elevation y
none is found till you reach the base of the
hill below the bed of the river. Besides sup-
plying Pittsburg, large quantities are sent down
the river.
There are in Pittsburg, (or ive^^e two years
since) three Baptist churches, or congregations,
one of which is of Welch, four Presbyterian,
four Methodist, one Episcopal, one Roman
Catholic, (besides a cathedral on Grant's Hill,)
one Covenanter, one Seceder, one German
Reformed, one Unitarian, one Associate Re-
formed, one Lutheran, one African, and per-
haps some others in the city or suburbs.
Of the public buildings deserving notice, I
will name the Western tlniversity of Pennsylva-
nia, which stands on the Monongahela, near
Grant's Hill; — the Penite^itiary , in Alleghany
town, which has cost the State an immense
amount, and is conducted on the principle of
solitary confinement; — the Presbyterian Theo-
logical Seminary is also in Alleghany town; —
the Museum; — the United States Jlrsenal, about
two miles above the city, at Lawrenceville. It
encloses four acres, and has a large depot for
ordnance, arms, &c. The City Water Works
is a splendid monument of municipal enterprise.
The water is taken from the Alleghany river,
by a pipe, 15 inches in diameter, and carried
2,439 feet, and 116 feet elevation, to a reservoir
on Grant's Hill, capable of receiving 1,000,000
gallons. The water is raised by a steam-en-
gine of 84 horse power, and will raise 1,500,000
FOR EMIGRANTS. 175
gallons in 24 hours. The aqueduct of the
Pennsylvania canal, across the Alleghany river,
is also deserving attention.
The inhabitants of Pittsburg are a mixture
of English, French, Scotch, Irish, German
and Swiss artizans and mechanics, as well as
of native born Americans, who live together in
much harmony. Industry, sobriety, morality
and good order generally prevail. Extensive
revivals of religion prevailed here about a year
since.
The population of Western Pennsylvania
is characterized for industry, frugahty, econ-
omy and enterprise. Temperance principles
have made considerable progress of late years.
Western Virginia
— Embraces all that part of Virginia that Hes
upon the western waters. The counties are
Brooke, Ohio, Monongalia, Harrison, Ran-
dolph, Russell, Preston, Tyler, Wood, Green-
brier, Kenawha,* Mason, Lewis, Nicholas,
Logan, Cabell, Monroe, Pocahontas, Giles,
Montgomery, Wythe, Grayson, Tazewell,
Washington, Scott and Lee: — 26.
Its principal river is the Kenawha and its
tributaries. Of these, Gaula, New river and
Greenbrier are the principal. New river is
the largest, and rises in North Carolina. The
Monongahela drains a large district; — the little
Kenawha, Guyandotte, and Sandy are smaller
* I have adopted the orthography of the legislature.
176
streams. The latter separates Virginia from
Kentucky for some distance.
Much of Western Virginia is mountainous,
lying in parallel ridges, which are often broken
by streams. Some of the vallies are very fer-
tile. The Kenawha Valley is narrow, but ex-
tends to a great distance. The salt manufac-
tories extend from Charlestown up the Kenaw-
ha, the distance of 12 miles. They are 20 in
number, and manufacture nearly two millions
of bushels annually. The river is navigable
for steamboats to this point at an ordinary depth
of water. Coal is used in the manufactories,
which is dug from the adjacent mountains, and
brought to the works on wooden railways.
Seven miles above Charlestown is the famous
burning spring. Inflammable gas escapes,
which, if ignited, will burn with great brillian-
cy for many hours, and even for several days,
in a favorable state of the atmosphere. The
State of Virginia has constructed a tolerably
good turnpike road from the mouth of the
Guyandotte, on the Ohio, to Staunton. It
passes through Charlestown, and along the
Kenawha river to the falls; — from thence it
extends along the course of New river, and
across Se wall's mountain by Louisburg to
Staunton. The falls of Kenawha are in a
romantic region, and merit the attention of the
traveller. Marshall's pillar is a singular pro-
jecting rock that overhangs New river, 1015
feet above its bed. The stage road passes
near its summit.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 177
This route is one of the great stage routes
leading from the Ohio Valley to Washington
city, and to all parts of old Virginia.
The White Sulphur, Red Sulphur, Hot,
Warra, and Sweet Springs, are in the moun-
tainous parts of Virginia, and on this route.
These are all celebrated as watering places,
but the White Sulphur spring is the great re-
sort of the fashionable of the Southern States.
Let the reader imagine an extensive camp-
ground, a mile in circumference, the camps
neat cottages, built of brick, or framed, and
neatly painted. In the centre of this area are
the springs, bath-houses, dining hall, and man-
sion of the proprietor. The cottages are in-
tended for the accommodation of families, and
contain two rooms each. This is by far the
most extensive watering place in the Union.
Of the effect of such estabhshments on morals
I shall say nothing. The reader will draw his
own conclusions, when he understands that the
card-table, roulette, wheel of fortune, and dice-
box are amongst its principal amusements.
Here, not unfrequently, cotton bales, negroes,
and even plantations, change owners in a night.
The scenery around is highly picturesque and
romantic. Declivities and mountains, sprin-
kled over with evergreens, are scattered in wild
confusion. A few miles from White Sulphur
springs, you pass the dividing line — the Alle-
ghany ridge, and pass from Western into Mid-
dle Virginia.
Chief Towns. — Wheeling is the principal
178 peck's guide
commercial town, and a great thoroughfare,
in Western Virginia. It has a large number
of stores, and commission warehouses; and
contains six or eight thousand inhabitants. It
is 92 miles by water, and 55 miles by land,
from Pittsburg. It has manufactures of cotton,
glass, and earthenware. Boats are built here.
The Cumberland or National road crosses the
Ohio at this place, over which abridge is about
to be erected. The town is surrounded with
bold, precipitous hills, which contain inexhaust-
ible quantities of coal. At extreme low water,
steamboats ascend no higher than Wheeling.
Charlestown, Wellsburgh, Parkersburgh,
Point Pleasant, Clarksburgh, Abington, Louis-
burg, and many others, are pleasant and thriv-
ing towns.
The climate of Western Virginia is pre-
eminently salubrious. The people, in their
manners, have considerable resemblance to
those of Western Pennsylvania. There are
fewer slaves, less wealth, more industry and
equality, than in the " Old Dominion," as
Eastern Virginia is sometimes called.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 179
CHAPTER VIII.
MICHIGAN.
Extent, — Situation, — Boundaries; Face of the Country;
Rivers,Lakes, &c., Soil and Productions; — Subdivisions,
Counties ; — Towns, Detroit ; — Education ; — Improve-
ments projected; — Boundary Dispute; — Outline of the
Constitution,
Michigan is a large triangular peninsula,
surrounded on the east, north and west, by
lakes, and on the south by the States of Ohio
and Indiana. Lake Erie, Detroit river, lake
St. Clair, and St. Clair river, lie on the east
for 140 miles; lake Huron on the north-east
and north, the straits of Mackinaw on the ex-
treme north-west, and lake Michigan on its
western side. Its area is about 40,000 square
miles.
Face of the Country. — Its general surface is
level, having no mountains, and no very ele-
vated hills. Still, much of its surface is undu-
lating, like the swelling of the ocean. Along
the shore of lake Huron, in some places, are
high, precipitous bluffs, and along the eastern
180
shore of Michigan are hills of pure sand, blown
up by the winds from the lake. Much of the
country bordering on lakes Erie, Huron, and
St. Clair, is level, — somewhat deficient in good
water, and for the most part heavily timbered.
The interior is more undulating, in some places
rather hilly, with much fine timber, interspers-
ed with oak ''openings," "plains," and "prai-
ries."
The "p/ams" are usually timbered, desti-
tute of undergrowth, and are beautiful. The
soil is rather gravelly. The '■'■openings'''' con-
tain scattering timber in groves and patches,
and resemble those tracts called barrens farther
south. There is generally timber enough for
farming purposes, if used with economy, while
it costs but little labor to clear the land. For
the first ploughing, a strong team of four or
five yoke of oxen is required, as is the case
with prairie.
The openings produce good wheat.
The '^ pi'airies/'' will be described more par-
ticularly under the head of Illinois. In Michi-
gan they are divided into wet and dry. The
former possess a rich soil, from one to four
feet deep, and produce abundantly all kinds of
crops common to 42 degrees of N. latitude,
especially those on St. Joseph river. The lat-
ter afford early pasturage for emigrants, hay
to winter his stock, and with a little labor would
be converted into excellent artificial meadows.
Much of the land that now appears wet and
FOR EMIGRANTS. 181
marshy will in time be drained, and be the
first rate soil for farming.
A few miles back of Detroit is a flat, wet
country for considerable extent, much of it
heavily timbered, — the streams muddy and
sluggish, — some wet prairies, — ^with dry, sandy
ridges intervening. The timber consists of all
the varieties found in the Western States ; such
as oaks of various species, walnut, hickory,
maple, poplar, ash, beech, &c., with an inter-
mixture of white and yellow pine.
Rivers and Lakes. — In general, the country
abounds with rivers and small streams. They
rise in the interior, and flow in every direction
to the lakes which surround it. The northern
tributaries of the Maumee rise in Michigan,
though the main stream is in Ohio, and it enters
the west end of lake Erie on the "debatable
land." Proceeding up the lake, Raisin and
then Huron occur. Both are navigable streams,
and their head waters interlock with Grand
river, or Washtenong, which flows into lake
Michigan. River Rouge enters Detroit river,
a few miles below the city of Detroit. Raisin
rises in the county of Lenawee, and passes
through Monroe. Huron originates amongst
the lakes of Livingston, passes through Wash-
tenaw, and a corner of Wayne, and enters
lake Erie towards its north-western corner.
Above Detroit is river Clinton, which heads
in Oakland county, passes through Macomb,
and enters lake St. Clair. Passing by several
smaller streams, as Belle, Pine, and Black
1S2 peck's guide
rivers, which fall into St. Clair river, and go-
ing over an immense tract of swampy, wet
country, between lake Huron and Saginaw bay,
in Sanilac county, we come to the Saginaw
river. This stream is formed by the junction
of the Tittibawassee, Hare, Shiawassee, Flint,
and Cass rivers, all of which unite in the cen-
tre of Saginaw county, and form the Sag-
inaw river, which runs north, and enters the
bay of the same name. The Tittibawassee
rises in the country west of Saginaw bay,
runs first a south, and then a south-eastern
course, through Midland county into Saginaw
county, to its junction. Pine river is a branch
of this stream, that heads in the western part
of Gratiot county, and runs north-east into Mid-
land. Hare, the original name of which is
Waposebee, commences in Gratiot, and the
N. W. corner of Shiawassee counties, and runs
an east and north-east course. The heads of
the Shiawassee, which is the main fork of the
Saginaw, are found in the counties of Living-
ston and Oakland. Its course is northward.
Flint river rises in the south part of Lapeer
county, and runs a north-western course, some
distance past the centre of the county, when it
suddenly wheels to the south, then to the west,
and enters Genesee county, through which it
pursues a devious course towards its destina-
tion. Cass river rises in Sanilac county, and
runs a western course. These rivers are
formed of innumerable branches, and water an
extensive district of country. Other smaller
streams enter lake Huron, above Saginaw bay;
FOR EMIGRANTS. 183
but the whole country across to lake Michigan
is yet a wilderness, and possessed by the In-
dians, Doubtless it will soon be purchased,
surveyed and settled. On the western side of
the State are Traverse, Ottawa, Betsey, Manis-
tic, Pent, White, Maskegon, Grand, Kekala-
mazoo, and St. Joseph, all of which fall into
lake Michigan. Those above Grand river are
beyond the settled portion of the State. Grand
river is the largest in Michigan, being 270
miles in length, its windings included. Its head
waters interlock with the Pine, Hare, Shiawas-
see, Huron, Raisin, St. Joseph and Kekalama-
zoo. A canal project is already in agitation to
connect it with the Huron, and open a water
communication from lake Erie, across the
peninsula, direct to lake Michigan. Grand
river is now navigable for batteaux, 240 miles,
and receives in its course. Portage, Red-Cedar,
Looking-glass, Maple, Muscota, Flat, Thorn-
Apple, and Rouge rivers, besides smaller
streams. It enters lake Michigan 245 miles
south-westerly from Mackinaw, and 75 north of
St. Joseph; — is between 50 and 60 rods wide
at its mouth, with 8 feet water over its bar.
The Ottawa Indians own the country on its
north side, for 60 miles up. Much of the land
on Grand river and its tributaries, is excellent,
consisting of six or seven thousand square
miles; — and, considering its central position in
the State, — the general fertility of its soil, —
the good harbor at its mouth, — the numerous
mill sites on its tributaries, — this region maybe
regarded as one of the most interesting portions
184 peck's guide
of Michigan. The Kekalamazoo rises in Jack-
son and Eaton counties, passes through Cal-
houn, and the northern part of Kalamazoo,
enters the south-eastern part of Allegan, and
passes diagonally through it to the. lake. There
is much first-rate land, timber, prairie, and
openings, on its waters, and is rapidly set-
tling.
The St. Joseph country is represented by
some as the best country in Michigan. This
stream has several heads in Branch, Hillsdale,
Jackson, Calhoun, and Kalamazoo counties,
which unite in St. Joseph county, through
which it passes diagonally to the south-west,
into Indiana, — thence through a corner of Elk-
hart county, into St. Joseph of that State, makes
the "South Bend," and then runs north-west-
erly, into Michigan, through Berrian county,
to the lake. The town of St. Joseph is at its
mouth. It has Pigeon, Prairie, Hog, Portage,
Christianna, Dowagiake, and Crooked rivers
for tributaries, all of which afford good mill
sites. In Cass and St. Joseph counties, are
Four-mile, Beardsley, Townsend, McKenny,
La Grange, Pokagon, Young, Sturges, Notta-
wa-Sepee, and White Pigeon prairies, which
are rich tracts of country, and fast filling up
with inhabitants.
Michigan abounds with small lakes and ponds.
Some have marshy and unhealthy borders; —
others are transparent fountains, surrounded
with beautiful groves, an undulating country,
pebbly and sandy shores, and teeming with
POR EMIGRANTS. 185
excellent fish. The counties of Oakland, Liv-
ingston, Washtenaw, Jackson, Barry, and
Kalamazoo, are indented with them.
Productions. -^These are the same, in general,
as those of Ohio and New York. Corn and
wheat grow luxuriantly here. Rye, oats, bar-'
ley, buckwheat, potatoes, and all the garden
vegetables common to the climate, grow well.
All the species of grasses are produced luxu-
riantly. Apples and other fruit abound in the
older settlements, especially among the French
about Detroit.
It will be a great fruit country.
Subdivisions. — Michigan had been divided
into 33 counties in 1835, some of which were
attached to adjacent counties for judicial pur-
poses. Other counties may have been formed
since. The following organized counties show
the population of the State, (then Territory,) at
the close of 1834.
186
peck's guide
Counties. Population.
Berrian, 1,787
Branch, 764
Calhoun, 1,714
Cass, 3,280
Jackson, 1,865
Kalamazoo, 3,124
Lenawee, 7,911
Macomb, 6,055
Monroe, 8,542
Oakland, 13,844
St. Clair, 2,244
gt. Joseph, 3,168
Washtenaw, 14,920
Wayne, 16,638
Total, 85,856
Seats OF Justice. Dist.from
JJetroit.
Berrian, 180
Branch, 133
Eckford, 100
Cassopolis, 160
Jacksonsburgh, 77
Bronson, 137
Tecumseh, 63
Mount Clemens, .... 25
Monroe, 36
Pontiac, 28
St. Clair, 60
White Pigeon, 135
Ann Arbor, 42
Detroit,
The other counties are Hillsdale, VanBuren,
Allegan, Barry, Eaton, Ingham, Livingston,
Lapeer, Genesee, Shiawassee, Chnton, Ionia,
Kent, Ottawa, Oceana, Gratiot, Isabella, Mid-
land, Saginaw, Sanilac, Gladwin and Arenac,
the population of which are included in the
counties given in the table. Doubtless, the
population of Michigan now (Jan. 1836) ex-
ceeds one hundred thousand.
The counties are subdivided into incorporated
townships, for local purposes, the lines of which
usually correspond with the land surveys.
For the sales of public lands, the State is
divided into three land districts, and land
offices are established at Detroit, Monroe, and
Bronson.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 187
Chief Toums. — Detroit is the commercial and
political metropolis. It is beautifully situated
on the west side of the river Detroit, 18 miles
above Maiden in Canada, and 8 miles below
the outlet of Lake St. Clair. A narrow street,
on which the wharves are built, runs parallel
with the river. After ascending the bench or
bluff, is a street called Jefferson Avenue, on
which the principal buildings are erected.
The older dwellings are of wood, but many-
have been recently built of brick, with base-
ments of stone, the latter material being brought
from Cleveland, Ohio. The primitive forest
approaches near the town. The table land ex-
tends 12 or 15 miles interior, when it becomes
wet and marshy. Along Detroit river the an-
cient French settlements extend several miles,
and the inhabitants exhibit all the peculiar
traits of the French on the Mississippi. Their
gardens and orchards are valuable.
The public buildings of Detroit, are a state
house, a council house, an academy, and two
or three banking houses. There are five
churches for as many different denominations,
in which the Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Bap-
tists, Methodists, and Roman Catholics worship.
The Catholic congregation is the largest, and
they have a large cathedral. Stores and com-
mercial warehouses are numerous, and business
is rapidly increasing. Town lots, rents, and
landed property in the vicinity are rising rapid-
ly. Lots have advanced, within two or three
years, in the business parts of the city, more
1B8
than one thousand per cent. Mechanics of all
descriptions, and particularly those in the
building line, are much wanted here, and in
other towns in Michigan. The population is
supposed to be about 10,000, and is rapidly in-
creasing. • This place commands the trade of
all the upper lake country.
Monroe, the seat of justice for Monroe coun-
ty, is situated on the right bank of the river
Raisin, opposite the site of old Frenchtown.
Two years since, it had about 150 houses, of
which 20 or 30 were of stone, and 1600 inhab-
itants. There were also two flouring and sev-
eral saw-mills, a woollen factory, an iron foun-
dry, a chair factory, &c., and an abundant sup-
ply of water power. The ^'Bank of the River
Raisin, "wdth acapitalofglOO,000, is established
here. The Presbyterians, Episcopalians, Bap-
tists, Methodists, and Roman Catholics have
houses of worship and ministers here. It was
at this place, or rather at Frenchtown in its
vicinity, that a horrible massacre of American
prisoners took place during the last war with
Great Britain, by the Indians under Gen.
Proctor, The sick and wounded were burned
alive in the hospital, or shot as they ran shriek-
ing through the flames!
Of the 700 young men barbarously murdered
here, many were students at law, young phy-
sicians, and merchants, the best blood of Ken-
tucky!
Mount Clemens, Brownstown, Ann Arbor,
Pontiac, White Pigeon, Tecumseh, Jacksons-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 189
burgh, Niles, St. Joseph, Spring Arbor, and
many others, are pleasant villages, and will
soon become populous.
Education. — Congress has made the same
donations of lands, as to other Western States,
and will, doubtless, appropriate the same per
centage on the sales of all public lands, when
the State is admitted into the Union, as has
been appropriated to the other new States. A
respectable female academy is in operation at
Detroit. The Presbyterian denomination are
about establishmg a college at Ann Arbor, the
Methodists a seminary at Spring Arbor, the
Baptists one in Kalamazoo county, and
the Roman Catholics, it is said, have fixed
their post at Bertrand, a town on the St. Joseph
river, in the south-eastern corner of Berrian
county, and near to the boundary line of In-
diana. Much sentiment and feeling exists in
favor of education and literary institutions,
amongst the people.
Improvements projected. — A survey has been
made for a rail-road across the peninsula of
Detroit, through the counties of Wayne, Wash-
tenaw, Jackson, Calhoun, Kalamazoo, Van
Buren and Berrian, to the mouth of St. Joseph
river. Another project is, to commence at or
near Toledo on the Maumee river, and pass
through the southern counties of Michigan
into Indiana, and terminate at Michigan city.
A third project is, to open a water communica-
tion from the navigable waters of Grand river,
to Huron river, and, by locks and slack water
8*
190 peck's guide
navigation, enter lake Erie. A canal from the
mouth of Maumee Bay to lake Michigan, has
also been spoken of as a feasible project; — or
one from the mouth of the river Raisin to the
St. Joseph, would open a similar communica-
tion. It has also been suggested to improve
the river Raisin by locks and slack water navi-
gation. Doubtless not many years will elapse
before some of these projects will prove reali-
ties.
Boundary Dispute. — This unpleasant dispute
between Ohio and Michigan, relates to a strip
of country about fifteen miles in width at its
eastern, and seven miles at its western end,
lying between the north-eastern part of Indiana
and the Maumee Bay. A portion of the Wa-
bash and Erie canal, now constructing by In-
diana, and which is dependent for its comple-
tion on either Ohio or Michigan, passes over
this territory. Michigan claims it by virtue of
an ordinance of Congress, passed the 13th
of July, 1787, organizing the ^' JYorth-Wesfern
Territory, ^^ in which the boundaries of three
States were laid off, "Provided, that the boun-
daries of these three States shall be subject so
far to be altered, that, if Congress shall here-
after find it expedient, they shall have authori-
ty to form one or two States in that part of the
said territory which lies north of an east and west
line drawn through the southerly bend or extreme of
lake Michigan ;^^ — Ohio claims it by possession,
and because, by being received into the Union
with this portion in possession, Congress vir-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 191
tually annulled that part of the former ordi-
nance that fixed the south bend of lake Michi-
gan as the boundary line, and by having run
the line north of this.
Outlines of the Constitution. — A convention
assembled at Detroit, on the 11th of May,
1835, and framed a constitution for a state
government, which was submitted to, and rati-
fied by vote of the people on the first Monday
in October.
The powers of the government are divided
into three distinct departments; — the legisla-
tive,— the executive, — and the judicial.
The legislative power is vested in a Senate
and House of Representatives. The representa-
tives are to be chosen annually; and their
number cannot be less than 48, nor more than
100.
The senators are to be chosen every two
years, one half of them every year, and to con-
sist, as nearly as may be, of one third of the
number of the representatives.
The census is to be taken in 1837, and 1845,
and every ten years after the latter period;
and also after each census taken by the United
States, the number of senators and representa-
tives is to be apportioned anew among the
several counties, according to the number of
white inhabitants.
The legislature is to meet annually, on the
first Monday in January.
The executive power is to be vested in a
governor, who holds his office for two years.
192 peck's guide
Upon a vacancy, the lieutenant governor per-
forms executive duties. The first election was
held on the first Monday in October, 1835,
and the governor and lieutenant governor hold
their offices till the first Monday in January,
1838.
The judicial power is vested in one Supreme
Court, and in such other courts as the legisla-
ture may, from time to time, establish. The
judges of the Supreme Court are to be appoint-
ed by the governor, with the advice and con-
sent of the Senate, for the term of seven years.
Judges of all county courts, associate judges
of circuit courts, and judges of probate, are to
be elected by the people for the term of four
years.
Each township is authorized to elect four
justices of the peace, who are to hold their
offices for four years. In all elections, every
white male citizen above the age of 21 years,
having resided six months next preceding
any election, is entitled to vote at such elec-
tion.
Slavery, lotteries, and the sale of lottery
tickets, are prohibited.
The seat of government is to be at Detroit,
or such other place or places as may be pre-
scribed by law until the year 1847, when it is
to be permanently fixed by the legislature.
for emigrants. 193
Ohio
— Is bounded on the north by lake Erie, and
the State of Michigan, east by Pennsylvania
and the Ohio river, south by the Ohio
river, which separates it from Virginia and
Kentucky, and west by Indiana. The me-
anderings of the Ohio river extend along
the line of this State 436 miles. It is about
222 miles in extent, both from north to south,
and from east to west. After excluding a
section of lake Erie, which projects into its
northern borders, Ohio contains about 40,000
square miles, or 25^000,000 acres of land.
Divisions. — Nature has divided this State
into four departments, — according to its prin-
cipal waters,
1. The Lake country, situated on lake Erie,
and embracing all its northern part. Its streams
all run into the lake, and reach the Atlantic
ocean through the Gulf of St. Lawrence.
2. The Muskingum country, on the eastern
side, and along the river of that name.
3. The Scioto country, in the middle, — and,
4. The Miami country, along the western
side.
For civil purposes, the State is divided into
seventy-five counties, and these are again sub-
divided into townships. Their names, date of
organization, number of square miles, number
of organized townships, seats of justice, and
bearing and distance from Columbus, are ex-
hibited in the following
194
PECK S GUIDE
Table.
Counties,
■i
II
1797
1831
1811
1805
1801
1818
1803
1833
1805
1818
1800
1810
1803
1811
1826
1810
1817
1808
1800
1810
1803
1803
1805
1803
1810
1790
1828
1833
1813
1805
1818
1825
1815
1816
1797
1808
1817
1808
1818
1824
550
542
7 00
740
536
470
480
*
417
412
515
400
562
594
475
660
610
540
415
5-20
500
600
400
621
400
576
570
*
744
555
43--2
422
800
490
400
618
430
666
425
530
i
10
27
19
16
14
13
*
12
10
12
8
*
21
12
19
10
23
14
7
18
15
23
8
19
14
5
13
2
11
9
14
29
13
13
24
12
25
9
19
jSeats of Justice.
1
Bearing and
distance
from Co-
lumbus.
Adams,
West Union,
Lima,
101^.
Allen, .
UOn.w.
Ashtabula,
Athens .
Jefferson,
lAthens,
2'JO n. w.
73 .*. e.
Belmont,
St. Clairsville, ...
Georgetown,
Hamilton,
CarroUton,
Urbanna,
[Springfield,
Batavia,
Wilmington,
New Lisbon, ....
Coshocton,
Bucyrus,
Cleveland,
Greenville,
Delaware,
Lancaster,
^Washington,
Columbus,
Gallipolis,
Chardon,
Xenia,
116 e.
104 s.
Butler,
101 s.w.
Carroll,
125 e. n. e.
Champaign,
Clark,
50 M. 71. W
44 w.
Clermont,
98 s. w.
Clinton,
60 s. 10.
Columbiana,
Coshocton,
Crawford,
1.50 c.n.e.
68 71. e.
60 71.
Cuyahoga,
Dark,
140 71. 71. c
93 70.
24 n„
Fairfield,
28 s. e.
Fayette,
38 s. w.
Gallia,
102 .9. s. e.
157 n. e.
Cambridge,
Cincinnati,
Findlay,
Kenton
76 fl.
110 5. w.
Hancock,
90 11. n. w
Hardin, ....
Harrison,
Cadiz,
124 e. n. e.
Henry,
Napoleon,
Hillsborough, ....
161 u. w.
Highland,
62 s. s. 10.
46 s. s. e.
Holmes,
Millersburg,
Nor walk,
Ijackson,
Steubenville,
Mount Vernon, . .
Burlington,
Newark,
Bellefontaine,
Elyria,
81 7t e
106 71.
73 s. s c.
Jefferson,
147 e. 71. e.
47 n. 11. e.
Lawrence,
Lickine, . .
130 s. s. e.
33 e. 71. e.
Lorain,
130 n. 11. e.
* Carroll county has been formed from Columbiana, Harrison,
Stark and Tuscarawas since the edition of the Ohio Gazetteer of 1833
was published, from which the foregoing table has been constructed.
Hence the townships in each are not given.
FOR EMIGRANTS.
195
Table (continued.)
Counties.
^tx
Lucas,* l'^35
Madison, 1810
Marion, 1824
Medina, 1818
Meigs, 1819
Mercer, 1824
Miami, 1 1807
Monroe, -1815
Montgomerv, 11803
Morgan, . ." !1819
Muskingum, 1804
Pauldingjf —
Perry, 1818
Pickaway, 1810
Pike, 1815
Portage, 1807
Preble, 1808
Putnam, f
Ricliland, 1813
Ross, 1798
Sandusky, 1820
Scioto, 1803
Seneca, 1824
Shelby, 1819
Stark, 1809
Trumbull, 1800
Tuscarawas, 1808
Union, 1820
Vanwert,t
Warren, 1803
Wasliington, 1788f
Wayne, 18121
Williams, 1824
Wood, 182ol
Seats of Justice.
Toledo,
London,
Marion,
Medina,
Chester,
St. Mary's,
Troy,
Woods field,
Dayton,
M'Connelsviile, . .
Zanesville,
Somerset,
Circleville,
Piketon,
Ravenna,
Eaton,
Mansfield,
Chillicolhe,
Lower Sandusky,
Portsmouth,
Tiffin,
Sidney,
Canton,
Warren,
New Philadelphia,
Marysville,
Lebanon,
Marietta,
Wooster,
Defiance,
Perrysburg,
'..-
6i
^^
ii
1^
150 m.
71. W
25 w
. s.w.
45 m
110 71
n. e.
94 5.
s. e.
HI n
. w.
iiSn
ofw
120 e.
s e.
68 OT
75 5.
e.
52 e.
170 n
w.
46 e
5. e.
26 s.
64 5.
135 71
e.
50 w
148 7t
ID.
74 71
71. e
45 5.
105 71.
90 5.
87 71
70 n.
ID.
116 71
e.
160 71.
e.
100 e.
n. e.
30 71.
w.
100 11.
w.
80s.
w.
106 5.
e.
89 71.
e.
130 71.
w.
135 11.
w.
* Lucas county has been recently formed from parts taken from
Sandusky and Wood counties, and from the disputed country claimed
by Michigan.
f Paulding, Putnam, and Vanwert counties had not been organized
at the period of our information.
Much of the land in Vanwert is wet. The southern portion con-
tains much swampy prairie.
196 PECK S GUIDE
There are nineteen congressional districts
in Ohio, which elect as many members of Con-
gress, and twelve circuits for Courts of Com-
mon Pleas.
Face of the Country. — The interior and north-
ern parts of the State bordering on lake Erie,
are generally level, and, in some places, wet
and marshy. The eastern and south-eastern
parts bordering on the Ohio river, are hilly
and broken, but not mountainous. In some
counties the hills are abrupt and broken, — in
others they form ridges, and are cultivated to
their summits. Immediately on the banks of
the Ohio and other large rivers are strips of
rich alluvion soil.
The country along the Scioto and two Mia-
mies, furnish more extensive bodies of rich,
fertile land, than any other part of the State.
The prairie land is found in small tracts near
the head waters of the Muskingum and Scioto,
and between the sources of the two Miami
rivers, and especially in the north-western part
of the State. Many of the prairies in Ohio are
low and wet; — some are elevated and dry, and
exhibit the features of those tracts called "bar-
rens" in Illinois. There are extensive plains,
some of which are wet, towards Sandusky.
Soil and Productions. — The soil, in at least
three fourths of the State, is fertile; — and some
of it very rich. The poorest portion of Ohio, is
along the Ohio river, from 15 to 25 miles in
width, and extending from the National road
opposite Wheeling, to the mouth of the Scioto
FOR EMIGRANTS. 197
river. Many of the hills in this region are
rocky.
Among the forest trees are oak of various
species, white and black walnut, hickory,
maple of different kinds, beech, poplar, ash of
several kinds, birch, buckeye, cherry, chest-
nut, locust, elm, hackberry, sycamore, linden,
with numerous others. Amongst the under
growth are spice-bush, dogwood, ironwood,
pawpaw, hornbeam, black-haw, thorn, wild
plum, grape vines, &c. The plains and wet
prairies produce wild grass.
The agricultural productions are such as are
common to the Eastern and Middle States.
Indian corn, as in other Western States, is a
staple grain, raised with much ease, and in
great abundance. More than 100 bushels are
produced from an acre, on the rich alluvial
soils of the bottom lands, though from 40 to 50
bushels per acre ought to be considered an
average crop. The State generally has a fine
soil lor wheat, and flour is produced for ex-
portation in great-quantities. Rye, oats, buck-
wheat, barley, potatoes, melons, pumpkins, and
all manner of garden vegetables, are cultivated
to great perfection. No markets in the United
States are more profusely and cheaply supplied
with meat and vegetables than those of Cincin-
nati and other large towns in Ohio. Hemp is
produced to some extent, and the choicest
kinds of tobacco is raised and cured in some
of the counties east of the Muskingum river.
Fruits of all kinds are raised in great plenty,,
9
198 peck's guide
especially apples, which grow to a large size,
and are finely flavored. The vine and the
mulberry have been introduced, and with en-
terprise and industry, wine and silk might easily
be added to its exports.
Animals. — Bears, wolves, and deer are still
found in the forests and unsettled portions of
the vState. The domestic animals are similar
to other States. Swine is one of the staple
productions, and Cincinnati has been denom-
inated the '^pork market of the world." Other
towns in the west, and in Ohio, are beginning
to receive a share of this trade, especially
along the lines of the Miami, and the Erie
canals. 150,000 hogs have been slaughtered
and prepared for market in one season in Cin-
cinnati. About 75,000 is the present estimated
number, from newspaper authority. Immense
droves of fat cattle are sent every autumn from
the Scioto valley and other parts of the State.
They are driven to all the markets of the east
and south.
Minerals. — The mineral deposits of Ohio, as
yet discovered, consist principally in iron, salt,
and bituminous coal, and are found chiefly
along the south-eastern portion of the State.
Let a line be drawn from the south-eastern part
of Ashtabula county, in a south-western direc-
tion, by Northampton in Portage county,
Wooster, Mount Vernon, Granville, Circleville,
to Hillsborough, and thence south to the Ohio
river in Brown county, and it would leave
von EMIGRANTS. 199
most of the salt, iron and coal on the eastern
and south-eastern side.
Financial Statistics. — From the Auditor's
Report to the Legislature now in session, (Jan.
1836,) the following items are extracted. The
general revenue is obtained from moderate
taxes on landed and personal property, and
collected by the county treasurers, — from
insurance, bank and bridge companies, from
lawyers and physicians, &c.
Collected in 1835, by the several county
treasurers, ^150,080, (omitting fractions):
paid by banks, bridges, and insurance com-
panies, $26,060; — by lawyers, and physicians,
gl,598; — other sources, $24,028, — making an
aggregate of $201,766. The disbursements
are, — amount of deficit for 1834, $16,622;
— bills redeemed at the treasury for tlie
year ending Nov. 1835, $182,005; — interest
paid on school funds, $33,101, Stc, amounting
to $235,365 — and showing a deficit in the re-
venue of $33,590.
Canal Funds.
These appear to be separate accounts from
the general receipts and disbursements.
Miami Canal. — The amount of money arising
from the sales of Miami canal lands up to the
15th of Nov., 1835, is $310,178. This sum has
been expended in the extension of the canal
north of Dayton.
Ohio Canal. — The amount of taxes collected
for canal purposes for the year 1835, including
200 peck's guide
tolls, sales of canal lands, school lands, balance
remaining in the treasury of last year, &c., is
^509,322. Only $38,242 of the general re-
venue were appropriated to canal purposes, of
which $35,507 went to pay interest on the
school funds borrowed by the State.
The foreign debt is $4,400,000;— the legal
interest of which is $260,000 per annum. The
domestic debt of the State, arising from invest-
ing the different school funds, is $579,287; —
the interest of which amounts to $34,757, — ma-
king an aggregate annual interest paid by the
State on loans, $294,757. The canal tolls for
the year 1835, amount to $242,357, and the
receipts from the sale of Ohio canal lands,
$64,549, — making an aggregate income to
the canal fund of $306 ,906 per annum; — a sum
more than sufficient to pay the interest on all
loans for canal purposes.
Items of Expenditure. — Under this head the
principal items of the expenditures of the State
government are given.
Members, and officers of the General
Assembly, per annum, $43,987
Officers of government, 20,828
Keeper of the Penitentiary, 1 ,909
For new Penitentiary buildings, .... 46,050
State printing, 12,243
Paper and Stationary for use of the
State, 4,478
Certificates for wolf scalps, 2,824
FOR EMIGRANTS.
201
2,276
1,027
Adjutant, and Quarter Master Gen-
erals, and Brigade Inspectors, ....
Treasurer's mileage on settlement
with the Auditor of State,
Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 5,700
Periodical works, &c 400
Postage on documents, 545
Reporter to Court in Bank, 300
Members and clerks of the Board
of Equalization, and articles fur-
nished, 1 ,960
Paymaster General, — Ohio Militia, 2,000
The extra session of the legislature on the
boundary line, in June, 1835, was $6,823.
Land Taxes. — The amount of lands taxed,
and the revenue arising therefrom, at several
different periods, are herewith given, to show
the progressive advance of the farming and
other interests of the State.
Years.
1809
1810
1811
Acres.
9,924,033
10,479,029
12,134,777
Taxes paid.
$63,991 87cts
67,501 60
170,546 74
From 1811 to 1816, the average increase of
the taxes, paid by the several counties, was
|59,351. From 1816 the State rose rapidly in
the scale of prosperity and the value of property.
In 1820, the number of acres returned as tax-
able, exceeded a fraction of 13 millions, while
the aggregate of taxes, was $205,346.
The period of depression and embarrassment
202 peck's guide
that followed throughout the west, prevented
property from advancing in Ohio. In 1826,
'27, '28, '29, '30, a material change in the
amount of property taxable took place, from
a few hundred thousands, to more than fifty
millions. The total value of taxable property
of the State for 1835, (exclusive of three coun-
ties from which returns had not been received,)
amounts to the sum of ninety-four millions, four
hundred and thirty-seven thousand , nine hundred,
and fifty-one dollars.
School Funds. — The amount of school funds
loaned to the State, up to Nov. 15th, 1835, is —
Virginia Military land fund, $1-09,937
United States Military land fund, . . . 90,126
Common School fund, 23,179
Athens University, 1 ,431
School section, No. 16, 453,000
Connecticut Western Reserve, .... 125,758
Total, $803,432
The following tabular view of the acres of
land, total amount of taxable property, and total
amount of taxes paid for 1833, is taken from the
Ohio Gazetteer, It should be noted that in all
the Western States, lands purchased of the
government of the United States, are exempted
from taxation for five years after sale. It is
supposed that such lands are not included in
the table. I have also placed the population
of each county for 1830, from the census of
that year; — reminding the reader that great
changes have since been made.
FOR EMIGRANTS.
203
Counties.
Popula-
tion 1830.
Acres of land.
Total amount
of taxable
property.
Total amount
of Taxes paid.
Adams
12,231
234,822
!$832,565
|f;6,995 41
Allen
573
14,159
51,214
725 28
Ashtabula
14,584
449,742
1,347,900
13,524 97
Athens
9,787
365,348
481,579
5,820 90
Belmont
28,627
301,511
1,591,716
11,590 33
Brown
17,867
267,130
1,358,944
8,179 35
Butler
27,142
257,989
2,514,007
20,111 55
Carroll
185,942
529,575
6,876 92
Champaign
12,131
233,493
908,571
5,956 66
Clark
13,114
247,083
1,114,995
7,744 89
Clermont
20,466
280,679
1,542,627
15,645 31
Clinton
11,436
239,404
785,770
6,482 14
Columbiana
35,592
317,796
1,491,099
14,217 28
Coshocton
11,161
246,123
850,708
9,307 28
Crawford
4,791
79,582
217,675
3,630 09
Cuyahoga
10,373
292,252
1,401,591
18,122 96
Dark
6,204
107,730
260,259
3,312 81
Delaware
11,504
338,856
831,093
8,516 66
Fairfield
24,786
308,163
1,992,697
13,716 97
Fayette
8,182
234,432
544,539
6,428 98
Franklin
14,741
325,155
1,663,315
13,247 34
Gallia
9,733
205,727
427,962
4,826 55
Geauga
15,813
381,380
1,427,869
15,832 65
Greene
14,801
251,512
1,441,907
12,082 30
Guernsey
18,036
275,652
908,109
9,855 72
Hamilton
52,317
239,122
7,726,091
97,530 42
Hancock
813
9, .302
50,929
421 70
Harden
210
125,607
118,425
1,291 43
Harrison
20,916
22,412
1,025,210
12,400 97
Highland
16,345
317,079
1,065,863
8,755 29
Hocking
4,008
92,332
215,272
1,919 29
Holmes
9,135
182,4.39
556,060
6,364 03
Huron
13,346
504,689
1,512,655
15,490 88
Jackson
5,941
57,874
197,932
2,239 69
Jefferson
22,489
230,145
1,855,064
13,149 44
Knox
17,085
313,823
1,252,294
13,329 41
204
PECK S GUIDE
Counties.
Popula-
tion 1830.
Acres of land
Total amount
of taxable
property.
Total amount
of Taxes paid.
Lawrence
5,367
56,862
$241,782
$2,280 80
Licking
20,869
393,205
2,101,495
17,370 83
Logan
6,440
203,509
519,622
3,925 65
Lorain
5,696
360,863
889,552
10,539 09
Madison
6,190
256,421
600,578
4,643 91
Marion
6,551
168,164
390,602
5,599 78
Medina
7,560
296,257
931,599
10,198 31
Meigs
6,158
229,004
380,172
5,111 58
Mercer
1,110
12,688
54,118
714 30
Miami
12,807
240,093
1,000,748
6,423 09
Monroe
8,768
95,520
280,572
3,666 61
Montgomery
24,362
267,349
2,293,419
14,649 12
Morgan
11,800
169,135
452,991
4,945 02
Muskingum
29,334
366,609
2,362,616
18,567 75
Perry
13,970
175,123
729,241
6,116 55
Pickaway
16,001
300,969
1,798,665
10,924 76
Pike
6,024
129,153
521,109
4,114 37
Portage
18,826
472,156
2,019,029
17,787 06
Preble
16,291
246,678
1,086,322
7,441 82
Richland
24,008
433,620
1,354,169
15,069 92
Ross
24.068
328,765
2,897,605
17,474 81
Sandusky
2,851
95,822
275,992
3,354 64
Scioto
8,740
105,539
963,882
7,926 93
Seneca
6,159
108,758
302,089
3,916 51
Stark
26,-588
374,101
1,854,967
16,361 36
Shelby
3,671
66,863
194,468
1,961 26
Trumbull
26,123
556,011
1,807,792
16,635 58
Tuscarawas
14,298
237,337
902,778
8,955 75
Union
3,192
259,101
380,535
5,193 68
Warren
21,468
243,517
2,143,065
16,247 33
Washington
11,731
282,498
681,301
7,463 12
Wayne
Williams and!
others not iiu;or.
23,333
382,254
1,451,996
14,584 77
j 1,089
17,797
90,066
1,351 02
Wood
1,102
17,981
127,862
1,572 22
Total !
937,903
17,133,481;
78,019,526
730,010 75
for emigrants. 205
Ohio Statistics — 1836.
From the Annual Report of the Auditor of
State, it appears there were returned on the
General List for Taxation, 17,819,631 acres
of land, under the new valuation, made un-
der the law of 1833—4.
Lands, including buildings, valued at $58,166,821
Town Lots, including houses, mills, etc. 15,762,594
262,291 Horses, valued at $40 each, . . . 10,491,640
455,487 Cattle, valued at $8 each, .... 4,043,896
Merchants' capital, and money at interest, 7,262,927
2,603 Pleasure Carriages, valued at . . . 199,518
Total amount of taxable property, . . . $94^38,016
On the value of taxable property, the fol-
lowing taxes were levied:
State and Canal tax, $142,854 15
County and School tax, 396,505 80
Road tax, 66,482 16
Towiship tax 102,991 65
Corporation, Jail, and Bridge tax, .... 51,276 89
Physicians' and Lawyers' tax, 3,144 19
School-House tax, 1,482 84
Delinquencies of former years, 13,044 37
Total taxes, $777,782 07
No returns were made from the counties of
Crawford, Hancock, Jefferson and Williams.
CANAL REVENUES.
The total amount of receipts for tolls, for
the year ending on the 31st of October, 1835,
was as follows:
206
PECK S GUIDE
OHIO CANAL.
Cleaveland, . $72,718 72
Akron, ..... 6,362 90
Massillon, . . . 13,585 78
Dover, 8,096 42
Roscoe, .... 14,555 83
115,319 45
$20,487 85
. 4,605 37
. 9,651 44
. 12,134 75
. 23,118 78
$69,998 00
115,319 45
Total, $185,317 45
Newark, . . .
Columbus,. .
Circleville,. .
Chillicothe, .
Portsmouth, .
MIAMI CANAL.
Dayton, 14,016 75
Middleton, , 8,747 19
Hamilton, 3,664 88
Cincinnati, 25,803 77
Total, 52,232 59
Total tolls received on both canals, . $237,550 04
Deduct contingent expenses on Ohio
canal, $5,836 05
Do. on Miami canal, 2,954 68—8,790 73
$228,759 31
Toll received on Lancaster Lat. Canal, 1,062 56
From water rents and sale of State Lots, 3,700 07
Arrearages paid of Tolls received in
October, 1834, . 7,835 26
$242,357 20
POPULATION OF OHIO AT DIFFERENT PERIODS.
In
1790, about
1800, "
1810, "
1820, "
1830, "
Population.
3,000
45,3()5
230,7()0
581,434
937,903
1835, estimated, 1,375,000
From
1790 to 1800
1800
1810
1820
1830
1810,
1820,
1830,
1835,
Increase.
42,365
185,395
350,674
356,469
437,097
FOR EMIGRANTS. 207
Rivers. — The streams which flow into the
Ohio river, are the Mahoninga branch of the
Beaver, Little Beaver, Muskingum, Hock-
hocking, Scioto, Little Miami, and Great Mi-
ami. Those which flow from the northward into
lake Erie, are the Maumee, Portage, Sandus-
ky, Huron, Cuyahoga, Grand, and Ashtabula.
Hence the State is divided into two unequal
inclined planes, the longest of which slopes
towards the Ohio, and the shortest towards the
lake. The head waters of the Muskingum,
Scioto and Miami, interlock with those of the
Cuyahoga, Sandusky, and Maumee, so as to
render the construction of canals not only
practicable, but comparatively easy. All the
large streams are now navigable for boats
during the spring season.
Internal Improvements. — These consist of ca-
nals, rail-roads, turnpike roads, and the Na-
tional road, now under the supervision of, and
owned by, the State. The canalling is man-
aged by a Board of Commissioners. The
State canals were projected about 1823, and,
considering the youthful character of the
State, its want of funds and other circumstan-
ces, they are, undoubtedly, the greatest works
ever executed in America.
The Ohio and Erie Canal connects lake Erie
with the Ohio river. It commences at Cleave-
land, at the mouth of the Cuyahoga, passes
along that river and it tributaries, to the sum-
mit level, from thence to the waters of the
Muskingum, and to the border of Muskingum
208 peck's guide
county; from thence it strikes across the
country past Newark, in Licking county,
and strikes the Scioto, down the valley of
which it proceeds to its mouth, at Portsmouth.
The principal places on the canal are Akron,
New Portage, Massillon, Bolivar, New Phila-
delphia, Coshocton, Newark, Bloomfield, Cir-
cleville, Chillicothe, Piketon, and Portsmouth.
It was commenced on the 4th of July, 1825,
and completed in 1832; and, together with the
Miami canal to Dayton, cost about ^5,500,000,
and has greatly enriched the State and the
people. Private property along its line has
risen from five to ten fold.
LENGTH or OHIO AND ERIE CANAL.
Miles.
Main trunk from Cleavelandto Portsmouth, 310
Navigable feeder from main trunk to Columbus, .... 11
Navigable feeder from main trunk to Granville, .... 6
Muskingum side cut, from the Muskingum river at
Dresden, 3
Navigable feeder from the Tuscaraw^as river, 3
Navigable feeder from the Walhonding river, 1
Total length of Ohio canal and branches, 334
The Miami Canal commences at Cincinnati,
and, passing through the towns of Reading,
Hamilton, Middletown, Franklin, and Miamis-
burg, terminates at Dayton, 65 miles. It has
been navigated from Dayton to the head of
Main street, Cincinnati, since the spring of
1829. An extension of the work is now in
progress, to be carried along the vallies of
St. Mary's and Au Glaise rivers, and unite
FOR EMIGRANTS. 209
with the Wabash and Erie canal, at Defiance ;
distance from Cincinnati about 190 miles.
An act passed the Ohio legislature in 1834,
for continuing the Wabash and Erie canal,
(now constructing in Indiana, by that State,)
from the western boundary of Ohio, to the
Maumee bay. Operations have been suspend-
ed by the boundary dispute with Michigan.
The Mahoning and Beaver Canal has already
beennoticed, under the head of Western Penn-
sylvania. It is proposed to carry it from Ak-
ron, on the Portage summit, along the valley
of the Mahoning river, to Newcastle, on the
Beaver division of the Pennsylvania canal.
Distance in Ohio, 77 miles. The work is in
progress.
The Sandy Creek and Little Beaver Canal
is in progress by a chartered company. It
commences near the town of Bolivar, on the
Ohio and Erie canal, in Tuscarawas county,
and passes along near the line of Stark and
Carroll counties to the Little Beaver in Co-
lumbiana county, and from thence to the Ohio
river.
The Mad River and Sandushj Rail-Road will
extend from Dayton, on the Miami canal, to
Sandusky, through Springfield, Urbanna,Belle-
fontaine. Upper Sandusky, Tiffin, and down
the valley of the Sandusky river to lake Erie.
The route is remarkably favorable for locomo-
tive power. Length 153 miles ; estimated
cost, ^^11,000 per mile. The work was com-
menced in September, 1835.
210 PECK^S GUIDE
The Erie and Ohio Rail-Road is intended to
be constructed from Ashtabula on the lake,
through Warren to Wellsville, on the Ohio
river, a distance of 90 miles. Other rail-roads
are in contemplation in this State, the most
important of which is the Great Western Rail-
Road, from Boston, by Worcester, Springfield,
and Stockbridge, through New York, by Al-
bany, Utica and Buffalo, along the summit
ridge, dividing the northern from the southern
waters, through Pennsylvania, Ohio, to inter-
sect the Wabash and Erie canal at La Fay-
ette, in Indiana. From thence provision is
already made for it to pass to the eastern boun-
dary of Illinois, from which, a company has
been recently chartered to construct it across
the the State of Illinois by Danville, Shelby-
ville, Hillsborough, to Alton on the Mississippi.
It must be some untoward circumstance that
shall prevent this splendid work from being
completed the whole length before 1850.
The project of a rail-road from Cincinnati,
to Charleston in South Carolina, has been
entered upon with great spirit in the South,
and in all the States more directly concerned
in the enterprise. It will, undoubtedly, be
carried into effect.
The State of Ohio has incorporated a num-
ber of turnpike companies, some of which
have gone into operation. The first is near
the north-eastern corner of the State, from
Pierpont, through Monroe and Salem town-
ships to the mouth of Conneant creek, 16
FOR EMIGRANTS. 211
miles long. The second is the Trumbull and
Ashtabula turnpike, leading from Warren to
Ashtabula, 48 miles. The third is from the
town of Wooster, through Medina, to Cleave-
land, 51 miles. The fourth is from Columbus
to Sandusky, 106 miles, now in the course
of construction. Another from Cincinnati,
through Lebanon and Columbus, to Wooster,
has been commenced on the McAdamized
plan, but is not completed. A McAdam turn-
pike from Cincinnati to Chillicothe is in pro-
gress. The National road, constructed by
the general government, and transferred to
the State, passes from Wheeling, through
Columbus to the Indiana line.
Mamifadures. — The principal factory for
woollen goods is at Steubenville. A number'^
of cotton factories are in the towns along the
Ohio river. Furnaces for smelting iron ore
are in operation in the counties bordering on
the Ohio, near the mouth of the Scioto. Glass
is manufactured in several towns. Consider-
ble salt is made on the Muskingum below
Zanesville, on the Scioto, and on Yellow
creek above Steubenville. About half a mil-
lion of bushels were made in the State in
1830.
Cincinnati rivals Pittsburg in the number,
variety and extent of its manufacturing opera-
tions.
In every town and village through the State,
mechanics' shops are established for the man-
ufacture of all articles of ordinary use.
212 peck's guide
Cities and Towns. — To enter upon minute
descriptions, or even name all these, would
much exceed the bounds of this work.
Cincinnati is the great commercial empo-
rium of the State. It is pleasantly situated on
the right or northern bank of the Ohio river,
about equidistant from Pittsburg and its
mouth, in N. lat. 39° 06', and W. Ion. from
Washington city 7° 25'.
Directly fronting the city to the south, and
on the opposite side of the Ohio river, are the
flourishing manufacturing towns of Newport
and Covington, which are separated by the
Licking river, of Kentucky, which enters
the Ohio directly opposite the Cincinnati
landing.
The wharf arrangements are the most con-
venient, for lading and unlading goods at all
stages of the water, to be found on our west-
ern rivers. The town site is beautifully situated
on the first and second banks of the river —
the former of which is above ordinary high
water, and the latter gently rises sixty or sev-
enty feet higher, and spreads out into a semi-
circular plain, surrounded with elevated blufl^s.
Cincinnati was founded in 1789, but did not
grow rapidly till about 1808. The progressive
increase of population will appear from the
following table :
1810, 2,32011826, 16,230
1813, 4,000|l830, 26,515
1819, 10,00011835, estimated, 31,000
1824, 12,016|
FOR EMIGRANTS. 213
Add the adjoining towns of Covington and
Newport, whose interests are identified, and
the aggregate population v/ill equal 35,000;
and, in all reasonable probability, in 1850,
these towns, with Cincinnati, will number
100,000 active, educated, and enterprising
citizens. In 1826, according to the Picture
of Cincinnati, by B. Drake, Esq. and E. D.
Mansfield, Esq., the manufacturing industry
alone, according to an accurate statistical ex-
amination, amounted to 1,800,000 dollars.
At that time there were not more than fifteen
steam engines employed in manufactures in
the city. At the close of 1835, there were
more than fifty in successful operation, besides
four or five in Newport and Covington.
"More than 100 steam engines, about 240
cotton gins, upwards of 20 sugar-mills, and
22 steamboats — many of them of the largest
size — have been built or manufactured in
Cincinnati, during the year 1835."* Hence
the productive industry of Cincinnati, Coving-
ton and Newport, for 1835, may be estimated
at 5,000,000 of dollars. By a laborious in-
vestigation, at the close of 1826, by the same
writer, the exports of that year were about
1,000,000 of dollars in value. A similar in-
quiry induced him to place the exports of 1832
at 4,000,000. The estimate for 1835, i§
6,000,000.
*See a valuable statistical article, by B, Drake, Esq., in
the Western Monthly Magazine, for .Tanuary, 1836, enti-
tled, " Cincinnati, at the close of 1835."
9*
214 PECK S GUIDE
To enumerate ail the public and private
edifices deserving notice, would extend this
article to too great a length. The court
house, four market houses, banks, college,
Catholic Athenaeum, two medical colleges,
Mechanics' Institute, two museums, hospital
and Lunatics' Asylum, Woodward high
school, ten or twelve large edifices for free
schools, hotels, and between twenty-five and
thirty houses for public worship, some of which
are elegant, deserve notice. The type foun-
dry and printing-press manufactory, is one of
the most extensive in the United States. Here
is machinery, lately invented, for casting
printer's types, exceeding, perhaps, anything
in the world. Printing, and the manufacture
of books, are extensively carried on in this
city. Here are six large bookstores, several
binderies, twelve or fifteen printing-offices,
from which are issued ten weekly, four tri-
weekly, four daily, four monthly, and one
quarterly publications. Two medical publi-
cations, of a highly respectable character, are
issued. The Western Monthly Magazine is
too well known to need special notice here.
The Cincinnati Mirror is a respectable litera-
ry periodical. The Presbyterians, Baptists,
Methodists, Roman Catholics, and, perhaps,
other sects, have each their weekly paper,
respectable in size and character. During
four months, in 1831, there were issued from
the Cincinnati press, 86,000 volumes, of which
20,300 were original works. In the same
FOR EMIGRANTS. 215
period, the periodical press issued 243,200
printed sheets. The business has increased
greatly since that time.
The " College of Professional Teachers,^' is
an institution formed at the convention of
teachers, held in this city, in October, 1832.
Its objects are to unite the professional instruc-
tors of youth throughout the Western country
in the cause in which they are engaged, and
to elevate the character of the profession.
Their meetings are held on the first Monday
in October annually. Lectures are given,
discussions held, reports made, and a respect-
able volume of transactions published annual-
ly. There is no doubt that much good will
result to the cause of education in the West,
from this annual convocation.
Law School. — An institution of this char-
acter has been organized, under the manage-
ment of Hon. J. C. Wright, and other gentle-
men of the bar.
Of Medical Schools there are two, at the
heads of which are gentlemen of high char-
acter and attainments in their profession.
The Mechanics^ Insiiluie is designed for the
diffusion of scientific knowledge among the
mechanics and citizens generally, by means of
popular lectures and mutual instruction. The
Cincinnati Lyceum was formed for the purpose
of useful instruction and entertainment, by
means of popular lectures and debates. The
Academic Institute is designed to aid the cause
of education, and elevate the profession.
216 peck's guide
amongst the teachers in Cincinnati. Its meet-
ings are monthly. The Mhenmum is an insti-
tution under the management of Roman Cath-
olic Priests. The college edifice is a splendid
and permanent building, of great capacity.
The Woodivard Hi^-h School was founded by
the late William Woodward. The fund yields
an income of about ^^^2000 annually. It is
conducted by four professors, and has about
one hundred and twenty students. The cor-
poration has established a system of free
schools, designed to extend the benefits of
primary education to all classes, and ten or
twelve large edifices have been erected for
the purpose. I regret the want of documents
to give particulars of this liberal and praise-
worthy enterprise, which reflects, much honor
upon the city and its honorable corporation.
In 1833, there were twenty public schools for
males and females, and two thousand pupils.
Many excellent private schools and semina-
ries, some of deserved celebrity, are sustained
by individual enterprise.
Columbus, the political capital of the State,
and nearly in the centre of the State, is a
beautiful city, on the e.ast bank of the Scioto
river. In 1812, it was covered with a dense
forest, when it was selected by the legislature
for the permanent seat of government. The
public buildings are a state house, a court
house for the Supreme Court, a building for
the public offices, a market house, &c., all of
brick. The State penitentiary is here, for
FOR EMIGRANTS. 217
which a new substantial building is construct-
ing, and an Asylum for the deaf and dumb,
sustained by legislative aid.
Chillicothe, Cleaveland, Zanesville, Steu-
benville, Circle ville and many others, are large
and flourishing towns.
Education. — Charters for eight or ten col-
leges and collegiate institutions have been
granted. Congress has granted 92,800 acres
of public land to this State, for colleges and
academies. One township, (23,040 acres,)
and a very valuable one, has been given to
the Miami University, at Oxford. Two town-
ships of land, (46,080 acres,) though of infe-
rior quality, have been given to the Ohio
University. Academies have been established
in most of the principal towns. A common
school system has been established by the
legislature. Each township has been divided
into school districts. Taxes are levied to the
amount of three fourths of a mill upon the
dollar of taxable property in the State, which,
with the interest accruing from the different
school funds already noticed, are applied to-
wards the expenses of tuition. Five school
examiners are appointed in each county, by
the Court of Common Pleas, who are to ex-
amine teachers. The governor, in his recent
Message, speaks of the common school sys-
tem as languishing in proportion to other
improvements.
Form of Government. — The legislative au-
thority is vested in a Senate and House of Rep-
218 peck's guide
resentatives; both of which, collectively, are
styled the General Assembly. The members
of both branches are chosen by counties, or by
districts composed of counties, according to
population. The representatives are chosen
annually; the senators biennially. The Gen-
eral Assembly has the sole power of enacting
laws ; the signature or assent of the governor
not being necessary in any case whatever.
The judiciary system comprises three grades
of courts : — the Supreme Court, Courts of
Common Pleas, and Justices' Courts. The
justices of the peace are chosen triennially, by
the people. The executive authority is vested
in a governor, who is elected biennially, and
must be thirty years of age, and have resided
in the State at least four years. He is com-
mander-in-chief of all the militia, and com-
missions all officers in the State, both civil and
military. Each free, white, male citizen of
the United States, of twenty-one years of age,
and a resident of the State one year preceding
an election, is entitled to a vote in all elections.
The following shows the professions, occu-
pations, and nativity of the members of the
legislature of Ohio, during the present winter,
(1835-6,) and is about a proportionate esti-
mate for other Western States: —
The members of the Ohio legislature, as to
their occupations and professions, are : — far-
mers, 58; lawyers, 17; merchants, 13; doc-
tors, 5; printers, 3; surveyors, 2; millers,
2; masons, 2; carpenters, 2; painter, 1;
FOR EMIGRANTS. 219
watch-maker, 1 ; blacksmith, 1 ; house join-
er, 1.
Their nativity is as follows: — Ohio, 7;
Pennsylvania, 30; Virginia, 22; New Eng-
land States, 17; Maryland, 8; New York, 7;
New Jersey, 4; Kentucky, 3; Delaware, 2;
North Carolina, 1; Ireland, 5; England, 1;
Germany, 1.
The youngest member in the Senate, is 33
years of age, and the oldest 56. In the
House, the youngest 26; oldest 67. Under
the Constitution, a senator must be 30; and
a member of the House, 26.
Antiquities. — Much has been said about the
antiquities of Ohio, — the fortifications, arti-
ficial mounds, and military works, supposed to
indicate a race of civilized people, as the pos-
sessors of the country, anterior to the Indian
nations. At Marietta, Circleville, Paint creek,
and some other places, are, doubtless, antiqui-
ties, that exhibited, upon their first discovery,
strong marks of a military purpose. I have
no doubt, however, that credulity and enthu-
siasm have greatly exaggerated many appear-
ances in the West, and magnified them into
works of vast enterprise and labor. Mounds
of earth are found in every country on the
globe, of all forms and sizes; and why should
they not exist in the western valley ? Mr.
Flint states that he has seen ahorse shoe dug up
at the depth of thirty-five feet below the sur-
face, with nails in it, and much eroded by
rust. He mentions also a sword, which is
^20 peck's guide
said to be preserved as a curiosity, but which
he had not seen, found enclosed in the wood
of the roots of a tree, which could not have
been less than five hundred years old ! Those
who delight especially in the marvellous, may
consult the "Description of the Antiquities
discovered in the State of Ohio, and other
Western States, by Caleb Atwater, Esq,"
History.' — The first permanent settlement of
Ohio, was made at Marietta, on the 7th day
of April, 1788, by 47 persons from Mas-
sachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecti-
cut. This was the nucleus around which has
grownup the populous State of Ohio. Amongst
the most active promoters of this colony, were
those called then "The Ohio Company."
The next settlement was that of Symmes' pur-
chase, made at Columbia, six miles above
Cincinnati, in Nov. 1789, by Major Stiles and
twenty-five others, under the direction of
Judge Symmes. A colony of French emi-
grants settled at Gallipolis in 1791. In 1796
settlements were made by New England emi-
grants at Cleaveland and Conneant, on the
southern shore of lake Erie. The intermedi-
ate country gradually filled up by emigration
from various parts of the United States. Some
slight diversity exists, in different sections of
the State, in manners, customs, and feelings,
amongst the people, in accordance with the
States or countries from which they or their
fathers emigrated. These shades of charac-
ter will become blended, and the next gener-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 221
ation will be Ohians, or, to use their own
native cognomen, Buckeyes.
In Sept., 1790, the first territorial legislature
convened at Cincinnati. The governor hav-
ing exercised his right of veto in relation to
the removal of a county seat, an unhappy
collision followed, and, upon framing the State
Constitution, in Nov., 1802, the convention
prevented the governor of the State from ever
exercising the negative power upon acts cf the
legislature.
DATE OF ORGANIZATION OF SOME OF THE
OLDEST COUNTIES.
Washington, .... July 27th, 1788
Hamilton, Jan. 2d, 1790
Adams, July 10th, 1797
Jefferson, July 29th, 1797
Ross, August 20th, 1798
Trumbull, July 10th, 1800
Clermont, December 6th, 1800
Belmont, September 7th, 1801
These were all organized under the terri-
torial government.
10
222 PECK S GUIDE
Indiana.
Length 240, breadth 150 miles. Between
37° 48' N. latitude, and 7° 45' and 11° W. lon-
gitude. Bounded north by the State of Michi-
gan and lake Michigan, east by Ohio, south
by the Ohio river, which separates it from
Kentucky, and west by Illinois. It contains
about 37,000 square miles, equal to 23,680,000
acres.
It is naturally subdivided into the hilly por-
tion, bordering on the Ohio; the level, tim-
bered portion, extending across the middle of
theState; the Wabash country, on that river;
and the northern portion bordering on the
State of Michigan and the lake. The two last
portions include nearly all the prairie country.
For civil purposes, this State has been di-
vided into counties, and those subdivided into
townships.
]?0R EMIGRANTS.
S^^
Table.
CoUNTIESw
Allen,
Bartholomew,
Boon,
Carroll,
Cass, i.
Clark,
Clay,
Clinton,
Crawford, . ..
Daviess, . .. ..
Dearborn, ...
Decatur, . . . >.
Delaware, . . .
Dubois,
Elkhart, ....
Fayette, ... ;.
Floyd,
Fountain, . ..
Franklin,
Gibson,
Grant, ......
Greene,
Hamilton, . . .
Hancock, ...
Harrison,
Hendricks, . . ,
Henry,
Huntington) .
Jackson,
Jefferson, . . . i
Jennings, .. . .
Johnson, ....
Knox,
La Porte, . . .
Lagrange, ...
Lawrence,'. .
Madison, ...
Marion, .
Martin,
Miami,
Monroe, ....
Q 5
tL
1823
1821
1830
1828
1829
1802
1825
1830
1818
1816
1802
1821
1827
1817
1830
1818
1819
1825
1810
1813
1831
1821
1823
1828
1808
1823 420
1821 1 440
1832
1815
1809
1816
1822
1802
1832
1832
1818
1823
1821
1818
1832
1818
Seats of Justice,
1,000
5,800
622
1,614
1,154
10,719
1,616|
1,423
3,184
4,512
14,573
5,854
2,372
l,774i
935,
9,112
6,363!
7,644!
10,199'
5,417
4,250i
1,7051
1,5691
10,288'
3,967i
6,498:
Fort Wayne, . . . .
Columbus,
Lebanon,
Delphi,
Logan<port, ....
Cliarlestown,
Bowlinggreen, .,
Frankfort,
Fredonia,
Washington, ...
Lawrenceburgh,.
Greensburgh, . . .
Muncietown, ...
Jasper,
Goshen,
Connersville, ...
New Albany, . ..
Covington,
Brookville,
Princeton,
j.Marion,
i\ jBloomfield,
■ilNoblesviile, ....
Greenfield,
ICorydon,
[Danville, .«»....
Newcastle, . * . . *
4,894
11,46.5!
3,950
4,130
6,557
9,23
2,442
7,181
2,010
6,578
Brownstown, . ..
Madison,
Vernon,
Franklin,
Vincennes,
La Porte,
Mongoquinon, . .
Bedford,
Andersontown, .
;lNDIANOrOLIS, . .
|IVlount Pleasant,.
iMiamisport,
|Bloomington, . . .
1 ti;-3
024
PECK S GUIDE
Table (continued.)
Counties.
Montgomery,.
Morgan,
Orange,
Owen,
Parke,
Peiry,
Pike,
Posey,
Putnam,
Randolph, . . .
Kipley, ..'....
Rush,
Pcott,
Shelby,
Spencer,
St. Joseph, ...
Sullivan,
Switzerland, ,
Tippecanoe, .
Union,
Vanderhurgh,
Vermillion, ..
Vigo,
Wabash, .. . .
Warren, ....
Warrick,
Washington,
Wayne,
o o
1 .
o .;
d E
S.^
= 2
QS
c-'s
o
lS-i2
500
7,37(i
189,1
530
5,579
1815
378
7,909
1818
380
4,0()0
18^1
450
7,534
1814
400
3,378
1816
430
2,464
1814
500
6,883
1821
490
8,195
1818
440
3,912
1818
400
3,957
1821
400
9,918
1817
200
3,097
1821
430
6,294
1818
400
3,187
1830
740
287
1816
430
4,696
1814
300
7,111
1826
.500
7,161
1821
224
7,957 i
1818
225
2,610 1
1823
280
5,706
1818
400
5,737 1
18112
380
1828
350
2,854
1813
412
2,973 !
1813
550
13,072:
1810
420
23,344 1
Seats OF Justice.
Crawfordsville,
Martinsville, .
Paoli, ,
Spencer, .....
Rockvilie, ....
Rome,
Petersburgh, .
Mount Vernon,
Greencastle, ..
Winchester, ..
Versailles, ....
Rushvilie, ....
Lexington, ...
Shelbyville, ..
Rockport, ....
South Bend, ..
Merom,
Vevay,
La Fayette,...
Liberty,
Evansville, . . .
Newport, ....
Terre Haute, .
Williamsport,
Boonville, ...
Salem,
Centerville,. .
«> S o S
«•- O 3
The total population in 1830, was 341,582.
The estimated population in the message of
Gov. Noble to the legislature, December, 1835,
was 600,000.
The counties in which the population has
not been given in the foregoing table, have
been formed since 1830. Probably other new
counties, along the waters of the Wabash and
ICankakee, have been formed recently, of which
FOR EMIGRANTS. 225
no intelligence has been had by the author.
The counties in the northern portion of the
State have increased the most in population
since 1830.
Forelecting representatives to Congress, the
State is divided into seven electoral districts.
For judicial purposes, it is divided into eight
circuits, in each of which there is a circuit
judge, who, together with two associates in
each county, holds the circuit courts.
POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS.
Population.
In 1800, (excluding Illinois,) 2,r>41
" 1810, 24,5-20
" 1820, 147,178
" 1825, 222,000
"1830, 341,582
«' 1835, (estimate,) 600,000
Increase
From 1800 to 1810, 21,879
" 1810 to 1820, 122,658
•' 1820 to 1825 74,822
" 1825 to 1830, 119,583
" 1830 to 1835, 119,582
In 1825, the number of voters was 36,977,
and the number of paupers 217!
Face of the Country ^ Sfc. — The counties bor-
dering on the Ohio river are hilly; — some-
times abrupt, precipitous, stony, occasionally
degenerating into knobs and ravines. Com-
mencing at the mouth of White river on the
Wabash, and following up that stream on its
east fork, and thence along the Muskakituck,
through Jennings and Ripley counties to Law-
renceville, and you leave the rough and hilly
portion of Indiana, to the right. Much of the
country we have denominated hilly is rich,
fertile land, even to the summits of the hills.
On all the streams are strips of rich alluvion
226 peck's guide
of exhaustless fertility. The interior, on the
two White rivers and tributaries, is moderate-
ly undulating, tolerably rich soil, and much of
it heavily timbered with oaks of various spe-
cies, poplar, beech, sugar tree, walnuts, hick-
ory, elm, and other varieties common to the
West. There is much level, table land, be-
tween the streams. Along the Wabash, be-
low Terre Haute, is an undulating surface,
diversified with forest and prairie, with a soil
of middling quality, interspersed with some
very rich tracts. Along the Wabash and its
tributaries above Terre Haute, the land in
general is first rate, — a large proportion for-
est, interspersed with beautiful prairies. The
timber consists of oaks of various species,
poplar, ash, walnut, cherry, elm, sugar tree,
buckeye, hickory, some beech, sassafras,
lime, honey locust, with some cotton wood,
sycamore, hackberry and mulberry on the
bottom lands. The undergrowth is spice bush,
hazel, plum, crab apple, hawthorn and vines.
Along the northern part of the State are ex-
tensive prairies and tracts of barrens, with
groves of various kinds of timber and skirts of
burr oak. Towards lake Michigan, and along
the Kankakee and St. Joseph rivers, are lakes,
swamps and marshes.
Rivers. — The Ohio meanders along the south-
eastern and southern parts of the State for
350 miles. The east and west forks of White
river, and their tributaries, water the interior
counties for 100 miles in extent. They are
FOR EMIGRANTS. 227
both navigable streams for flat boats during
the spring and autumn floods. The Wabash
river has several heads, which interlock with
the waters of the St. Joseph and St. Mary's,
which form the Maumee of lake Erie. It runs
a south-westwardly course across the State
to Warren county, — thence southwardly to
Vigo county, where it becomes the boundary
between Indiana and Illinois, along which it
meanders to the Ohio, which it enters 12 miles
above Shawneetown. The St. Joseph of lake
Michigan, already noticed under the State of
Michigan, makes a curve into Elkhart and St.
Joseph counties, forming what is called the
South Bend. The Kankakee, which is the
longest branch of Illinois river, rises in In-
diana, near the South Bend. Some of its
head waters interlock with those of Tippeca-
noe, a prominent tributary of the Wabash.'
SKETCH OF EACH COUNTY.
The following sketch of each county, — its
streams, surface, soil, and minerals, — has been
made and collated with much labor, from an
excellent Gazetteer of this State, published in
1833, by Douglass and Maguire of Indianopo-
lis, — from personal observation of many of the
older counties, — and from an extensive cor-
respondence.
Allen. — Streams; St. Joseph's and St. Ma-
ry's, which form the Maumee of lake Erie,
navigable for small keel boats, — and numerous
228 peck's guide
creeks; generally heavily timbered; soil,
clay, — sandy on the rivers.
Bartholomew. — Streams; Driftwood, Clif-
ty, Flat Rock, and Salt Creeks, — all mill
streams. Surface, level; soil, a rich loam,
mixed with sand and gravel; the western
part hilly, with clay soil. Minerals; lime-
stone, coal, iron ore, red ochre.
Boon. — Watered by the tributaries of Rac-
coon and Sugar Creeks. Surface, level, —
soil rich.
Carroll. — Streams; Wabash river, Deer,
Rock, and branches of Wildcat creeks. Con-
siderable timber, — some prairies, of which
Deer prairie is the largest and most beautiful.
Considerable quantities of limestone on the
surface; a remarkable spring near Delphi, —
the water reddish.
Cass. — Streams are Wabash andEel rivers,
which unite atLogansport, — the head of steam-
boat navigation of the Wabash, and termina-
tion of the W. and E. canal. Surface, gene-
rally level, rolling towards the rivers with
abrupt bluffs; soil, near the rivers, a mixture
of loam and sand; at a distance from them,
flat and clayey. Large proportion, forest land,
— some prairies.
Clark. — Silver and Fourteen Mile creeks
furnish excellent mill sites. Ohio river on
the south. Surface, rolling and hilly; soil,
loam, mixed with sand. Minerals; limestone,
gypsum, water lime, marble, salt, iron ore,
copperas, alum.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 229
Clay. — Eel river and tributaries. Surface
moderately undulating; soil various, chiefly
clay and loam, and a mixture of sand, in
places; timber predominates, — some prairies.
Clinton. — Watered by the South, Middle,
and Kilmore's Forks of Wildcat creek. Sur-
face, moderately undulating, or level: Twelve
Mile prairie extends from S. W. to N. E. 12
miles, and is three fourths of a mile wide.
The remainder timbered land. Soil, a rich
sandy loam, and exceedingly fertile.
Crawford.' — Waters; the Ohio and Blue
rivers, — plenty of water power, and excellent
springs. Surface, hilly and broken; in places,
tolerably productive ; in others, soil thin and
rocky. A timbered region, and abundance of
limestone.
Daviess. — Streams; Forks of White river,
with its tributaries. Smother's, Prairie, Veal,
Aikman's and Sugar creeks. Level bottoms
on the rivers^ — sometimes inundated; undu-
lating on the high grounds. Soil on the West
Fork, sandy; much timber, — an extensive
tract of sugar tree; some prairies. The
county destitute of rock near the surface;
plenty of lime and sandstone in the bed of
West Fork of White river, at the rapids.
Plenty of coal.
Dearborn. — Watered by the Great Miami,
Whitewater, Laughery, Hogan's and Tan-
ner's creeks. Surface, hilly and broken, with
rich, level, bottom lands, on the Miami. Soil,
230 peck's guide
one fourth first rate, one fourth second rate,
— remainder inferior. A timbered region.
Decatur. — Flat Rock, Clifty, and Sand
creeks, are all good mill streams. Surface,
generally level, — some parts undulating; soil,
loam, with a substratum of clay; well adapt-
ed to grain — timbered. Minerals; limestone,
some iron ore and coal.
Delaware. — Streams; Missisinawa, and
West Fork of White river; surface tolera-
bly level; soil, loam, mixed with sand. Mine-
rals; some limestone, and granite bowlders
scattered over the surface.
Dubois. — Streams; East Fork of W^hite
river, Patoka and Anderson creeks. Surface
rolling, — some parts hilly and broken, — some
level tracts; soil rich and sandy loam near
the streams. Minerals; sand rock and coal.
Elkhart. — Watered by St. Joseph of lake
Michigan, Elkhart and tributaries. Surface,
generally level, — a portion undulating; soil
various, but generally rich; forest and prairie,
both wet and dry.
Fayette. — Watered by the West Fork of
Whitewater, and a small lake in the north.
Surface, undulating; soil, on the high ground,
clayey, and a mixture of sand, — on the bottom
lands, a rich, sandy loam. Limestone found
in masses and quarries,
Floyd. — Watered by the Ohio river. Silver
creek, and some head branches of Big and
Little Indian creeks. Surface various, — a
range of knobs, — east of these knobs, it is
FOR EMIGRANTS. 231
gently undulating; soil inferior. Minerals;
shale, soft sandstone, limestone, freestone,
iron ore, and some traces of coal, A boiling
spring, from which is emitted an inflammable
gas.
Fountain. — Watered by the Wabash river,
and Coal and Shawnee creeks, with numerous
mill sites. Surface, gently undulating; soil,
a black loam, mixed with sand, and very rich.
Minerals; coal, and some sandstone.
Franklin. — Watered by the East and West
Forks of Whitewater. Surface, on the east-
ern part level, — western, rolling; soil, in the
central and northern parts, a black loam, — in
the south-west, thin and clayey.
Gibson. — Watered by the Wabash, White,
and Patoka rivers. Surface, rolling and tim-
bered; soil, generally a sandy loam, and pro-
ductive.
Grant. — Watered by the Missisinewa and
tributaries. Surface level, — generally heavily
timbered; soil, clay and loam on the table
lands, — sandy on the river bottoms.
Green. — Watered by White andEel rivers,
and Richland creek; soil, on the rivers a rich
loam, — on the bluffs, sandy, — east side, hilly,
— west side, level. White river is navigable.
Minerals; lime and sandstone, coal, and some
iron ore.
Hamilton. — The streams are White river,
and Cicero, Coal, Stoney, and Fall creeks.
Generally forest, — some few prairies; soil, in
232 peck's guide
places, clay, — more generally, a sandy loam.
Minerals; lime, and some soft sand rock.
Hancock. — Watered by Blue river. Sugar
and Brandywine creeks, with excellent mill
sites, and well supplied with springs. Sur-
face, either level or gently undulating; soil,
a rich loam, mixed with sand, — heavily tim-
bered.
Harrison. — Watered by Big and Little In-
dian, and Buck creeks, and Blue river. Sur-
face various, — some parts hilly and broken, —
some parts undulating, — some parts level;
soil, in the low grounds, a rich loam, — on the
high grounds, calcareous and gravelly. A
large tract of '' barrens " in the west. Mine-
rals; a quarry and several caves of black
flint, salt licks, limestone.
Hendricks. — The waters are White Lick,
and branches of Eel river, with good mill
sites. Surface, gently rolling, and timbered
with the varieties of the Wabash country;
soil, a mixture of clay, loam and sand.
Henry. — Watered by Blue river, Flat Rock
and Fall creeks. Surface, in some places,
broken, — in most parts, level; soil, a mixture
of sand with loam and clay. Plenty of springs
and mill sites. Mostly timbered, but several
tracts of prairie.
Huntington. — The streams are Salamania,
Little river, and Wabash. Surface, on the
rivers, level, — back, gently undulating; soil,
loam and clay, with a slight mixture of sand.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 233
Several tracts of prairie, but generally forest
land.
Jackson. — Watered by Indian, Driftwood,
White, Muscatatack, and Gum creeks. Sur-
face, rolling and in places hilly; soil, clay
and loam, mixed with sand. In the forks of
the creeks, sand predominates. On the west
and north-west, inclined to clay.
Jefferson. — Watered by the Ohio river,
Indian, Kentucky and Big creeks. Surface
various; along the river and creeks, low allu-
vion; soil, loam mixed with sand. The bot-
toms are bounded by precipitous bluffs, with
towering cliffs of limestone. The table lands
are undulating, and the soil inclined to clay.
Timber various. Abounds with limestone,
masses of freestone, and scattered granite
bowlders.
Johnson. — Watered on the eastern side by
Blue river, and Sugar and Young's creeks, —
on the western side by Indian, Crooked, and
Stott's creeks. Surface, gently undulating;
soil, a rich, black, sandy loam; timbered.
Minerals; masses of freestone, and scattered
granite bowlders.
Jennings. — Watered by Graham's Fork,
and the North Fork of the Muscatatack. Sur-
face, in some parts level, some parts very hilly ;
soil, calcareous, rich and productive; timber
of all varieties; abounds with limestone.
Knox. — The Wabash on the west side, —
White river south, — the West Fork of White
river east, — and Maria and Duchain creeks,
234 peck's guide
interior. Surface undulating; soil, sotne what
various, — a rich loam in places, — sandy in
other places; — some tracts of prairie, but tim-
ber predominates.
LAGRANGE.-~-Watered by Pigeon and Crook-
ed rivers. Surface, gently rolling; northern
part extensive prairies; southern portion chief-
ly forest; soil, loam and sand.
La Porte. — Watered by the Kankakee,
Galena, and Trail creek, at the mouth of which
is Michigan city, and a harbor for lake Michi-
gan commerce. Surface, gently undulating;
abounds with large, rich prairies, with groves
of timber, and lakes of clear water interspers-
ed; soil, a sandy loam, rich and productive.
Lawrence. — Watered by Salt, Indian,
Guthrie's, Beaver, and Leatherwood creeks,
and excellent springs. Surface, generally
hilly, — some level lands; — soil, on the water
courses, sandy, — back from the streams, loam
and clay. Abounds with limestone.
Madison.— The West Fork of Wliite river
is navigable. The other streams are Killbuck,
Pipe, Lick and Fall cre'eks. Surface, gene-
rally level, with some broken land near the
streams; timbered, with a wet prairie, 7 miles
long and three fourths of a mile wide ; soil,
sand, mixed with clay and loam,-— productive.
Minerals; lime and freestone, marble that
polishes well, and some traces of iron ore.
Marion.-— West Fork of White river passes
through it, on which is situated Indianopolis,
the capital of the State. Fall creek is an ex-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 255
cellent mill stream. Surface, chiefly level
forest land; soil, a deep black loam, with a
mixture of sand. Large granite bowlders are
scattered over the surface.
Martin. — The East Fork of White river
passes through it, and receives Lost river
from the left, and Indian and Flint creeks from
the right. Surface, on the east side of White
river, broken and hilly; soil, clay and loam;
on the west side, level, or gently undulating,
with portions of barrens and prairie land; soil,
clay and loam, mixed with sand. Minerals;
coal in large quantities, lime, sand and free-
stone.
Miami. — The Wabash and Eel rivers pass
through it, and the Missisinawa comes from
the east, and enters the Wabash about the
centre of the county. The Wabash and Erie
canal passes through it. Surface, gently un-
dulating and beautiful, — chiefly forest, and
interspersed with small prairies; soil, the rich-
est in the State, of loam, clay and sand inter-
mixed.
Monroe. — Streams; Salt, Clear, Indian,
Raccoon, Richland, and Bean-blossom creeks,
— pure springs. Surface, hilly and undulat-
ing; soil, second rate. Minerals; limestone
rock, salt licks, with manufactories of salt.
Montgomery. — The heads of Shawnee and
Coal creeks in the north-west, — Sugar creek
in the centre, — and Big Raccoon on the south-
eastern part. Surface, gently undulating;
the northern portion prairie, interspersed with
236 peck's guide
groves, with a rich soil of black loam, mixed
with sand, — the middle and southern portions
timbered. Excellent quarries of rock in the
middle, — granite bowlders in the northern
parts.
Morgan. — White river, which is navigable.
The mill streams are White Lick, Sycamore,
Highland, and Lamb's creeks on the west
side, and Crooked, Stott's, Clear, and Indian
creeks on the east side. Surface, generally
rolling, — some parts hilly; soil, calcareous
and clayey, — on the bottoms, a rich sandy
loam. Minerals; limestone, and some iron
ore.
Orange. — Streams; Lost river, French
Lick, and Patoka. Surface, hilly and broken,
— limestone rock, — springs of water, of which
Half-moon and French Lick are curiosities.
On the alluvial bottoms, the soil is loamy, — on
the hills, calcareous, and inclined to clay. Ex-
cellent stones for grit, equal to the Turkey oil
stones, are found in this county.
Owen. — Watered by the West Fork of
White river, with its tributaries, Raccoon,
Indian, Mill, Rattlesnake, and Fish creeks.
The falls of Eel river furnish the best water
power in the State. Surface rolling; soil, in
some places a dark loam, — in others clayey
and calcareous. Minerals; immense bodies of
lime rock, and some iron ore.
Parke. — Watered by the Big and Little
Raccoon, and Sugar creeks, (with excellent
mill sites,) all of which enter the Wabash on
FOR EMI on A NTS. 237
its western side. Surface, generally level, —
some beautiful prairies, but mostly forest land;
soil, a loam mixed with sand and rich. Mine-
rals; lime and sandstone, coal and iron ore.
Perry. — Watered by the Ohio river, with
Anderson's, Bear, Poison, and Oil creeks in-
terior. Some level land, with a rich, sandy
loam, on the streams, — all the high lands very
broken; hilly, with a clayey, sterile soil.
Minerals; immense bodies of limestone, grind-
stone quarries, iron ore and coal.
Pike — Has White river on the north, and
Patoka creek through the centre. Surface
all forest land and undulating; soil, eastern
part clay and sand, — western, a rich, dark
loam, mixed with sand, — some swampy land.
Minerals, limestone and coal.
Posey— In the forks of the Ohio and Wa-
bash, with Big, Mill, and McFadden's creeks
interior, and good springs. Surface, rolling,
and all forest land; soil, a sandy loam, and
produces well. Minerals; sand, and lime-
stone and coal.
Putnam — Has Raccoon creek, and Eel
river, with abundant water privileges, and fine
springs. Surface, gently undulating; soil, in
places calcareous and clayey, — in other places
a rich loam; limestone.
Randolph — Water courses, the West Fork
of White river and Missasinawa and their
tributaries, which furnish good mill sites.
Surface, either level or gently undulating;
soil, a rich loam, — in some places marshy;
10*
238 PECK S GUIDE
a small quantity of limestone, with granite
bowlders.
Ripley. — Watered by Laughery and Gra-
ham's creek. Surface level, forest land; soil
clay, — in some parts inclines to sand, — with
limestone abundant.
Rush. — The streams are Big and Little Blue
rivers, Big and Little Flat Rock, with excel-
lent water power. Surface, moderately roll-
ing, and heavily timbered; soil, loam on clay,
with a slight mixture of sand.
ScoTT. — Watered by tributaries of the Mus-
catatack. Surface rolling, — some flat lands
inclining to marsh; soil, clay. Minerals; lime-
stone, iron ore, salt, sulphur, and copperas.
Shelby. — Watered by Big and Little Blue
rivers, Brandywine, and Sugar creeks, with
good mill sites, — all heads of the East Fork of
White river. Surface, generally level with
forest land; soil, clay mixed with loam.
Spencer. — Ohio river, Anderson's, Little
Pigeon, and Sandy creeks. ^Surface tolerably
level, and forest land; soil, clay mixed with
loam. Minerals; coal, and lime and sand
rock.
St. Joseph. — St. Joseph's river, Kankakee,
and Bobango, with some small creeks. Ex-
tensive marshes on the Kankakee, and near
the South Bend of the St. Joseph. These
marshes are of vegetable formation. Surface,
in some parts level, — in others gently undu-
lating; soil, a loam, — in some places sand.
The north-west part chiefly prairies and bar-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 239
rens, including the large and fertile prairies
of Portage and Terre Coupe. The north-
eastern, barrens, — the south-eastern, forest.
Minerals are granite bovv^lders, and bog iron
ore.
Sullivan — Has the Wabash river on its
western side, and Turman's, Busseron, and
Turtle creeks interior. Surface rolling, —
some prairies, but generally forest land, — some
poor barrens; soil, loam and sand; — lime and
sand rock and coal.
Switzerland. — The Ohio east and south,
— Indian, Plum, Bryant's, Turtle, and Grant's
creeks interior. Surface various, — bottom
lands level, and rich, — then a range of pre-
cipitous bluffs, with cliffs of limestone, — the
table land rolling with a calcareous and clayey
soil. At Vevay are extensive vineyards.
Tippecanoe. — Watered by the Wabash
river, and Wildcat, Wea, Burnett's, and Mill
Branch creeks. The Wabash afibrds naviga-
tion, and the other streams excellent mill sites.
Surface gently undulating, with extensive level
tracts, and consists of one half prairie, one
eighth barrens, and the remainder heavy forest
land. The prairie soil is a rich, black loam,
— the barrens cold, wet clay, — the forest a
very rich loam and sand.
Union. — Streams; the East Fork of White
river and its tributaries, Hanna's, Richland,
and Silver creeks, all of which furnish excel-
lent mill sites. Surface, moderately rolling;
soil, a dark loam.
240 peck's guide
Vanderburgh. — Watered by the Ohio, and
Great Pigeon creek. Surface, high, dry, roll-
ing land, with good timber, and well watered;
soil, clay and sand, of inferior quality. Min-
erals; lime and sandstone, salines, and a min-
eral spring.
Vermillion. — A long, narrow county, be-
tween the Wabash river and the State of Illi-
nois. The streams are Wabash, Big and
Little Vermillion, and their tributaries. Sur-
face high, rolling land, with abrupt bluffs near
the streams; a good proportion of prairie and
timber; soil, rich, sandy loam, and very pro-
ductive. Minerals; freestone and limestone,
and large coal banks.
Vigo. — The Wabash passes through it —
navigable. The mill streams are Prairie,
Honey, Otter, and Sugar creeks, but their
waters fail in a dry season. Surface level, or
gently undulating, with forest and prairies;
soil, rich loam and sand, — first rate. Miner-
als; gray limestone, freestone, and inex-
haustible beds of coal.
Wabash. — The Wabash river, and W. and
E. canal, pass through it, as does the Missis-
inawa, Eel, Bluegrass, and Salamania. Sur-
face,— wide, rich bottoms on the streams, —
bluffs and ravines adjoining, — table lands fur-
ther back, either dry and rolling, or flat and
wet, and abound with willow swamps. Lime-
stone rock abundant, and many excellent
springs of pure water.
FOR EMIGRANTS.
241
Warren. — The Wabash on the S. E. bor-
der for thirty miles, and navigated by steam-
boats; interior streams, Rock, Redwood, and
Big and Little Pine creeks, all of which afford
good mill sites. Some pine and cedar timber.
Surface generally level, with broken land on
the blufis of creeks; some forest, but the
largest proportion prairie ; soil, a rich and very
fertile loam. Minerals; lime and excellent
freestone for building purposes, — coal, — iron,
— lead and copper, — with several old "dig-
gings" and furnaces, where both copper and
lead ore have been smelted in early times.
Warrick. — Watered by the Ohio river,
Big and Little Pigeon, and Cypress. Surface,
rolling and hilly; soil, a sandy loam on clay.
Minerals; quarries of freestone, some lime-
stone, and inexhaustible beds of coal.
Washington. — Streams; Muscatatack on
the north. Rush, Twin, Highland, Delany's,
Elk, Bear, and Sinking creeks, and the heads
of Blue and Lost rivers, with mill sites. Sur-
face, diversified from gentle undulations, to
lofty and precipitous hills; soil, in part, second
rate, v/ith much of inferior quality. Substra-
tum of limestone, caves, hollows, and sink
holes.
Wayne. — Streams, East and West Forks
of Whitewater, with excellent water power
for machinery. Surface, moderately hilly;
heavy forest land; soil, a rich loam; sub-
stratum, clay. Minerals; generally, lime-
stone, and excellent for buildings.
242 peck's guide
Form of Government. — This differs very little
from that of Ohio. The Constitution provides
that an enumeration be made every five years
of all free white male inhabitants, above the
age of twenty-one years; and the representa-
tion of both houses of the General Assembly
is apportioned by such enumeration, in such
ratio that the number of representatives shall
never be less than 36, nor exceed 100, and
the number of senators not exceeding one
half, nor less than one third the number of
representatives. Every free white male citi-
zen, twenty-one years of age, who has resided
in the State one year, is entitled to vote;
" except such as shall be enlisted in the army
of the U. S., or their allies." Elections are
held annually, by ballot, on the first Monday
in August. Senators, the governor, and lieu-
tenant governor, hold their offices for three
years. The judiciary is vested in a Supreme
Court, in Circuit Courts, Probate Courts,
and Justices of the peace. The Supreme
Court consists of three judges, who are ap-
pointed by the governor, with the advice and
consent of the senate, for the term of seven
years, and have appellate jurisdiction. The
Circuit Courts consist of a presiding judge in
each judicial circuit, elected by joint ballot of
both houses of the General Assembly, and
two associate judges in each county, elected
by the qualified voters in their respective
counties, for a like term. The Probate Courts
consist of one judge for each county, who is
FOR EMIGRANTS. 243
elected by the voters, for the same term. Jus-
tices of the peace are elected in each town-
ship, for the term of five years, and have
jurisdiction in criminal cases throughout the
county, but, in all civil cases, throughout the
township.
Fhumces.-^The Indiana Gazetteer, of 1833,
estimates that the revenue for State purposes
amounted to about §35,000 annually, and, for
county purposes, to about half that sum. The
aggregate receipts for 1835, according to the
governor's message, of Dec. 1835, amounted
10^107,714; expenditures for the same time,
$103,901.
Sales of canal lands for the same period,
$175,740. The canal commissioners have
borrowed $605,257, for canal purposes, on a
part of which they obtained two per cent, pre-
mium, and, on another part, as high as seven
per cent.; and have also borrowed $450,000
bank capital, for which they received four and
a half per cent, premium. Three per cent, on
all sales of U. S. lands within the State, is
paid by the general government into the State
treasury, to be expended in making roads.
The receipts from this source, in 1835,
amounted to $24,398. Sales and rents of
saline lands, produced an income of $4,636.
The proceeds of certain lands, donated by the
general government towards the construction
of a road from the Ohio river to lake Michi-
gan, amounted to $33,030.
244
Internal Improvements. — This State has erl*
tered with great spirit upon a system of inter-
nal improvements. It consists of canalling,
improving river navigation, rail-roads, and
common turnpike roads.
Wabash and Erie Canal. — This work will
extend from La Fayette, on the Wabash riv-
er, up the valley of that stream, to the Mau-
mee and to the boundary of Ohio; distance,
105 miles. The cost of construction has been
estimated at ^1,081,970, and lands to the
amount of 355,200 acres, have been appropri-
ated by the general government, the proceeds
of which will be sufficient to complete the ca-
nal to Fort Wayne. The middle division, 32
miles, was completed in July, 1835, and the
remainder is in active progress. Its whole
distance, through a part of Ohio to Maumee
bay, at the west end of lake Erie, will be 187
miles.
The Whitewater Canal, 76 miles in length,
along the western branch of Whitewater, is
intended to pass through Connorsville, Brook-
ville, Somerset, and other towns, toLawrence-
burgh, on the Ohio river.
Provision is made to improve the navigation
of the Wabash river, in conjunction with Illi-
nois, where it constitutes the boundary line,
and, by this State alone, further up.
Rail-Roads. — 'From Evansville, on the Ohio,
to La Fayette on the Wabash, 175 miles;
from La Fayette to Michigan city, 90 miles;
forming a line from the Ohio river to lake
FOR EMIGRANTS. 245
Michigan, 265 miles in length: — From Madi-
son, on the Ohio, to Indianopolis, the seat of
government, 85 miles; and several others
were projected two years since. But at the
session of the legislature of 1835-6, a bill was
passed to borrow, in such instalments as
should be needed, ten mi//tows of dollars ; and a
system of internal improvements, including
canals, rail-roads, and the improvement of
river navigation, was marked out. In a few
years, this State will be prominent in this spe-
cies of enterprise.
Synopsis of Canals surveyed by order of the In-
diana Legislature during the Year 1835.
La Fayette and Terre Haute division of
the Wabash and Erie canal. Length, 90 miles;
total cost, ^1,067,914 70; per mile, $^11,865
79.
Central canal, north of Indianopolis. Total
length, from Indianopolis via Andersontown,
Pipe creek summit to the Wabash and Erie
canal at Wabash town, 103 miles 34 chains;
total cost, $1,992,224 54; per mile, $17,106
51. Length, via Pipe creek summit to Peru,
near the mouth of the Missisinawa, 114 miles
46 chains; total cost, $1,897,797 19; per
mile, $14,871 85. Length, via Pipe creek
summit (including lateral canal toMuncietown)
to Wabash tov^n, 124 miles 51 chains; total
cost, $2,103,153 61; per mile, $15,873 83.
Length, via Pipe creek summit (including
lateral canal to Muncietown) to Peru, 185
11
246 peck's guide
miles 63 chains; total cost, $^,008,726 26;
per mile, ^14,793 12. Total length, from
Indianopolis via Muncietown to the Wabash
and Erie canal at Peru, 131 miles 41 chains;
total cost, §2,058,929 41; per mile, $14,549
71.
Central canal, south of Indianopolis. To-
tal length, from Indianopolis to Evansville,
188 miles; total cost, $2,642,285 92; per
mile, $14,054 71. Route down the valley of
Main Pigeon. Length, 194 miles; total cost,
$2,400,957 70; per mile, $12,376 02.
Terre Haute and Eel river canal, which
forms a connexion between the Wabash and
Erie canal and W^hite river or Central canal.
Total length, 40i miles; total cost, $629,631
65; which, including a feeder, is $13,540 46
per mile.
Wabash and Erie canal, eastern division,
[east of Fort Wayne]. Upper line: Length,
19 miles 30 chains; total cost, $154,113 13;
per mile, $7,952 17. — Lower line: Total
length, 20 miles 76^ chains; total cost,
$254,817 52; per mile, $11,159 04.
The following are the works provided for
in the Bill, and the sums appropriated for
them:
fOR EMIGHANTS. 247
1st. The White Water Canal, including a
lateral canal or rail-road, to connect said canal
with the Central or White river
canal, gl ,400,000
2d. Central or White river Canal, 3,500,000
3d. Extension of the Wabash and
Erie Canal, 1,300,000
4th. Madison and La Fayette Rail-
road, 1 ,300,000
5th. A M'Adamized turnpike road
from New Albany to Vincennes,. .. 1,150,000
6th. Turnpike or rail-road from
New Albany to Crawfordsville, 1 ,300,000
7th. Removing obstructions in the
Wabash, 50,000
$10,000,000
8th. The Bill gives the credit of the State
to the Lawrenceburgh and IndianopoHs Rail-
road Company, for the sum of §500,000.
Mannfadures. — Besides the household man-
ufacture of cotton and flannels, common to
the western people, at Vincennes, and proba-
bly other towns, machinery is employed in
several estal)lishments. It will be seen from
the sketch of each county, already given, that
in most parts of the State there is a supply of
water power for manufacturing purposes.
Both water and steam power, saw and grist
mills, are already in operation in various parts
of the State.
Education. — The same provision of one sec-
tion of land in each township, or a thirty-sixth
243 peck's guide
part of the public lands, has been made for
the encouragement of common schools, as
in other Western States. A law has been
enacted providing for common schools, and
the public mind has become measurably
awakened to the subject of education. Some
most extravagant and exaggerated state-
ments have been made relative to an incredi-
ble number of children in this State, "who
have no means of education." As in all new
countries, the first class of emigrants, having
to provide for their more immediate wants,
have not done so much as is desirable to pro-
mote common school education; but we have
no idea they will slumber on that subject,
while they are wide awake to the physical
wants and resources of the country. Acade-
mies have been established in several coun-
ties, and a college at Bloomington, from the en-
couragement of State funds, and other insti-
tutions are rising up, of which the Hanover
Institution near the Ohio river, and Wabash
College at Crawfordsville, promise to be con-
spicuous.
Hislory. — This country was first explored by
adventurers from Canada, with a view to the
Indian trade, towards the close of the seven-
teenth century; and the place where Vin-
cennes now stands is said to have been thus
early occupied as a trading post. A company
of French from Canada, made a settlement
here in 1735. The country, in common with
the Western Valley, was claimed by France,
FOR EMIGRANTS. 249
until it was ceded to Great Britain, at the
treaty of peace in 1763, under whose jurisdic-
tion it remained, until subdued by the Ameri-
can arms under the intrepid Gen. G. R. Clark,
and his gallant band, in 1779. A territorial
government was organized by Congress in
1787, including all the country north-west of
the river Ohio, which was then called the
North-western Territory. In 1802, when the
State of Ohio was organized, all that part of
the Territory lying west of a line due north
from the mouth of the Great Miami, was or-
ganized into the Territory of Indiana, — which
was divided, and from which Illinois Territory
was formed in 1809. In June, 1816, a con-
stitution was adopted, and at the ensuing ses-
sion of Congress, Indiana was made a State.
General Hemarks. — The importance of In-
diana, as a desirable State for the attention of
the emigrant to the West, has been too much
overlooked. Though not possessing quite
equal advantages with Illinois, especially in
the quality and amount of prairie soil, it is far
superior to Ohio, and fully equal, — nay, in
our estimation, rather superior to Michigan.
Almost every part is easy of access, and in a
very few years the liberal system of internal
improvements, adopted and in progress, will
make almost every county accessible to public
conveyances, and furnish abundant facilities
to market.
Along the wide, alluvion bottoms of the
streams, and amidst a rank growth of vegeta-
250 peck's guide
tion, there is usually more or less autumnal
fever, yet, in general, there is very little dif-
ference in any of the Western States as to
prospects of health.
Mechanics, school teachers, and laborers of
every description, are much wanted in this
State, as they are in all the States further
west; and all may provide abundantly and
easily, all the necessaries of living for a fami-
ly, if they will use industry, economy and
sobriety.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 251
CHAPTER XI.
ILLINOIS.
Situation, Boundaries, and Extent.
The State of Illinois is situated between
37° and 42°, 30' N. latitude; and between 10°
25', and 14° 30' W. longitude from Washing-
ton city. It is bounded on the north by Wis-
consin Territory, north-east by lake Michigan,
east by Indiana, south-east and south by Ken-
tucky, and west by the State and Territory of
Missouri. Its extreme length is 380 miles;
and its extreme width, 220 miles; its aver-
age width, 150 miles. The area of the
whole State, including a small portion of
lake Michigan within its boundaries, is 59,300
square miles.
The water area of the State is about 3,750
square miles. With this, deduct 5,550 square
miles for irreclaimable wastes, and there re-
mains 50,000 square miles, or 32 millions of
acres of arable land in Illinois, — a nnich
greater quantity than is found in any other
State, In this estimate, inundated lands, sub-
252 peck's guide
merged by high waters, but which may be re-
claimed at a moderate expense, is included.
Face of the Country, and qualities of Soil. —
The general surface is level, or moderately
undulating; the northern and southern portions
are broken, and somewhat hilly, but no por-
tion of the State is traversed with ranges of
hills or mountains. At the verge of the allu-
vial soil on the margins of rivers, there are
ranges of "bluffs" intersected with ravines.
The bluffs are usually from fifty to one hun-
dred and fifty feet high, where an extended
surface of table land commences, covered with
prairies and forests of various shapes and
sizes.
When examined minutely, there are several
varieties in the surface of this State, which
will be briefly specified and described.
1. Inundated Land.^. I apply this term to
all those portions, which, for some part of the
year, are under water. These include por-
tions of the river bottoms, and portions of the
interior of large prairies, with the lakes and
ponds which, for half the year or more, are
without water. The term "bottom" is used
throughout the West, to denote the alluvial
soil on the margin of rivers, usually chilled
"intervales," in New En<Tland. Portions of
this description of land arc flowed for a longer
or shorter period, when the rivers arc full.
Probably one eighth of the bottom lands are
of this description; for, though the water may
FOR EMIGRANTS. 253
not stand for any length of time, it wholly pre-
vents settlement and cultivation, though it
does not interrupt the growth of timber and
vegetation. These tracts are on the bottoms
of the Wabash, Ohio, Mississippi, Illinois, and
all the interior rivers.
When the rivers rise above their ordinary
height, the waters of the smaller streams,
which are backed up by the freshets of the
former, break over their banks, and cover all
the low grounds. Here they stand for a few
days, or for many weeks, especially towards
the bluffs; for it is a striking fact in the geol-
ogy of the western country, that all the river
bottoms are higher on the margins of the
streams than at some distance back. When-
ever increase of population shall create a de-
mand for this species of soil, the most of it
can be reclaimed at comparatively small ex-
pense. Its fertility will be inexhaustible, and
if the waters from the rivers could be shut
out by dykes or levees, the soil would be per-
fectly dry. Most of the small lakes on the
American bottom disappear in the summer,
and leave a deposit of vegetable matter under-
going decomposition, or a luxuriant coat of
weeds and grass.
As our prairies mostly lie between the
streams that drain the country, the interior of
the large ones are usually level. Here are
formed ponds and lakes after the winter and
spring rains, which remain to be drawn off by
evaporation, or absorbed by an adhesive soil.
254 peck's guide
Hence the middle of our large, level prairies
are wet, and for several weeks portions of
them are covered with water. To remedy
this inconvenience completely, and render all
this portion of soil dry and productive, only .
requires a ditch or drain of two or three feet
deep to be cut into the nearest ravine. In many
instances, a single furrow with the plough,
would drain many acres. At present, this
species of inundated land offers no inconven-
ience to the people, except in the production
of miasm, and even that, perhaps, becomes
too much diluted with the atmosphere to pro-
duce mischief before it reaches the settle-
ments on the borders of the prairie. Hence
the inference is correct, that our inundated
lands present fewer obstacles to the settle-
ment and growth of the country, and can be
reclaimed at much less expense, than the
swamps and salt marshes of the Atlantic
States.
2. River Bolloms or Mluinon. The surface
of our alluvial bottoms is not entirely level.
In some places it resembles alternate waves
of the ocean, and looks as though the wa-
ters had left their deposit in ridges, and re-
tired.
The portion of bottom land capable of pres-
ent cultivation, and on which the waters never
stand, if, at an extreme freshet, it is covered,
is a soil of exhaustless fertility; a soil that for
ages past has been gradually deposited by the
annual floods. Its average depth on the
FOR EMIGRANTS. 255
American bottom, is from twenty to twenty-
five feet. Logs of wood, and other indica-
tions, are found at that depth. The soil dug
from wells on these bottoms, produces luxuri-
antly the first year.
The most extensive and fertile tract, of this
description of soil, in this State, is the Ameri-
can Bottom, a name it received when it consti-
tuted the western boundary of the United
States, and which it has retained ever since.
It commences at the mouth of the Kaskaskia
river, five miles below the town of Kaskaskia,
and extends northwardly along the Mississippi
to the bluffs at Alton, a distance of ninety
miles. Its average width is five miles, and
contains about 450 square miles, or 288,000
acres. Opposite St. Louis, in St. Clair coun-
ty, the bluffs are seven miles from the river,
and filled with inexhaustible beds of coal.
The soil of this bottom is an argillaceous or a
silicious loam, according as clay or sand
happens to predominate in its formation.
On the margin of the river, and of some of
its lakes, is a strip of heavy timber, with a
thick undergrowth, which extends from half a
mile to two miles in width; but from thence
to the bluffs, it is principally prairie. It is
interspersed with sloughs, lakes, and ponds,
the most of which become dry in autumn.
The soil of the American bottom is inex-
haustibly rich. About the French towns it
has been cultivated, and produced corn in
succession for more than a century, without
256 peck's guide
exhausting its fertilizing powers. The only
objection that can be offered to this tract is
its unhealthy character. This, however, has
diminished considerably within eight or ten
years. The geological feature noticed in the
last article — that all our bottoms are higher
on the margin of the stream, than towards the
bluffs, explains the cause why so much stand-
ing water is on the bottom land, which, during
the summer, stagnates and throws off noxious
effluvia. These lakes are usually full of veg-
etable matter undergoing decomposition, and
which produces large quantities of miasm.
Some of the lakes are clear and of a sandy
bottom, but the most are of a different char-
acter. The French settled near a lake or a
river, apparently in the most unhealthy places,
and yet their constitutions are little affected,
and they usually enjoy good health, though
dwarfish and shrivelled in their form and fea-
tures.
"The villages of Kaskaskia, Prairie du R-o-
cher, and Cahokia, were built up by their in-
dustry in places where Americans would have
perished. Cultivation has, no doubt, render-
ed this tract more salubrious than formerly;
and an increase of it, together with the con-
struction of drains and canals, will make it
one of the most eligible in the States. The
old inhabitants advise the emigrants not to
plant corn in the immediate vicinity of their
dwellings, as its rich and massive foliage pre-
rOR EMIGRANTS. 257
vents the sun from dispelling the deleterious
vapors."*
These lakes and ponds could be drained at
a small expense, and the soil would be sus-
ceptible of cultivation. The early settlements
of the Americans were either on this bottom,
or the contiguous bluffs.
Besides the American bottom, there are
'Others that resemble it in its general charac-
ter, but not in extent. In Union county, there
is an extensive bottom on the borders of the
Mississippi. Above the mouth of the Illinois,
and along the borders of the counties of Cal-
houn, Pike, and Adams, there are a series of
bottoms, with much good and elevated land;
but the inundated grounds around, present
objections to a dense population at present.
The bottoms of Illinois, where not inun-
dated, are equal in fertility, and the soil is
less adhesive than most parts of the American
bottom. This is likewise the character of the
bottoms in the northern parts of the State.
The bottoms of the Kaskaskia are generally
covered with a heavy growth of timber, and
in many places inundated when the river is at
its highest floods.
The extensive prairies adjoining, will create
a demand for all this timber. The bottom
lands on the Wabash are of various qualities.
Near the mouth, much of it is inundated.
Higher up it overflows in high freshets.
* Beck.
258
These bottoms, especially the Americaiij
are the best regions in the United States foi*
raising stock, particularly horses, cattle, and
swine. Seventy-five bushels of corn to the
acre is an ordinary crop. The roots and
worms of the soil, the acorns and other fruits
from the trees, and the fish of the lakes, ac-
celerate the growth of swine. Horses and
cattle find exhaustless supplies of grass in the
prairies; and pea vines, buffalo grass, wild
oats, and other herbage in the timber, for
summer range ; and often throughout most of
the winter. In all the rush bottoms, they
fatten during the severe weather on rushes.
The bottom soil is not so well adapted to the
production of small grain, as of maize or In-
dian corn, on account of its rank growth, and
being more subject to blast, or fall down be-
fore harvest, than on the uplands.
3. Prairies. Much the largest proportion
is undulating, dry, and extremely fertile.
Other portions are level, and the soil in some
cases proves to be wet; — the water, not run-
ning off freely, is left to be absorbed by the
soil, or evaporated by the sun. Crawfish
throv/ up their hillocks in this soil, and the
farmer who cultivates it, will find his labors
impeded by the water.
In the southern part, that is, south of the
National road leading from Terre Haute to the
Mississippi, the prairies are comparatively
small, varying in size from those of several
miles in width, to those which contain only a
FOR EMIGRANTS. 250
few acres. As we go northward, they widen
and extend on the more elevated ground be-
tween the water courses to a vast distance,
and are frequently from six to twelve miles in
width. Their borders are by no means uni-
form. Long points of timber project into the
prairies, and line the banks of the streams,
and points of prairie project into the timber
between these streams. In many instances
are copses and groves of timber, from one
hundred to two thousand acres, in the midst
of prairies, like islands in the ocean. This is
a common feature in the country between the
vSangamon river and lake Michigan, and in
the northern parts of the State. The lead
mine region, both in this State and the Wis-
consin territory, abounds with these groves.
The origin of these prairies has caused
much speculation. We might as well dispute
about the origin of forests, upon the assump-
tion that the natural covering of the earth was
grass. Probably one half of the earth's sur-
face, in a state of nature, was prairies or
barrens. Much of it, like our western prai-
ries, was covered with a luxuriant coat of
grass and herbage. The steppes of Tartary,
the pampas of South America, the savannas of
the Southern, and the prairies of the Western
States, designate similar tracts of country.
Mesopotamia, Syria, and Judea had their an-
cient prairies, on which the patriarchs fed
their flocks. Missionaries in Burmah, and
travellers in the interior of Africa, mention
260
the same description of country. Where the
tough sward of the prairie is once formed,
timlDcr will not take root. Destroy this by
the plough, or by any other method, and it is
soon converted into forest land. There are
large tracts of country in the older settlements,
where, thirty or forty years since, the farmers
mowed their hay, that are now covered with
a forest of young timber of rapid growth.
The fire annually sweeps over the prairies,
destroying the grass and herbage, blackening
the surface, and leaving a deposit of ashes to
enrich the soil.
4. Barrens. This term, in the western dia-
lect, does not indicate poor land, but a species
of surface of a mixed character, uniting forest
and prairie.
The timber is generally scattering, of a
rough and stunted appearance, interspersed
with patches of hazle and brushwood, and
where the contest between the lire and timber
is kept up, each striving for the mastery.
In the early settlements of Kentucky, much
of the country below and south oi' Green
river presented a dwarfish and stunted growth
of timber, scattered over the surface, or col-
lected in clumps, with hazle and shrubbery
intermixed. This appearance led the first
explorers to the inference that the soil itself
must necessarily be poor, to produce so scanty
a growth of timber, and they gave the name
of barrens to the whole tract of country. Long
since, it has been ascertained that this descrip-
tOR EMIGRANTS. 261
lion of land is amongst the most productive
soil in the State. The term barren has since
received a very extensive application through-
out the West. Like all other tracts of coun-
try^ the barrens present a considerable diver-
sity of soil. In general, however, the surface
is more uneven or rolling than the prairies,
and sooner degenerates into ravines and sink-
holes. Wherever timber barely sufficient for
present purposes can be found, a person need
not hesitate to settle in the barrens. These
tracts are almost invariably healthy; they pos-
sess a greater abundance of pure springs of
water, and the soil is better adapted for all
kinds of produce-, and all descriptions of sea-
sons, wet and dry, than the deeper and richer
mould of the bottoms and prairies.
When the fires are stopped, these barrens
produce timber, at a rate of which no northern
emigrant can have any just conception.
Dwarfish shrubs and small trees of oak and
hickory are scattered over the surface, where
for years they have contended with the fires
for a precarious existence, \vhile a mass of
roots, sufficient for the support of large trees,
have accumulated in the earth. As soon as they
are protected from the ravages of the annual
fires, the more thrifty sprouts shoot forth, and
in ten years are large enough for corn cribs
and stables.
As the fires on the prairies become stopped
by the surrounding settlements, and the wild
grass is eat^n out and trodden down by the
262 peck's guide
stocky tliej begin to assume the character of
barrens; first, hazle and other shrubs, and
finally, a thicket of young timber, covers the
surface.
5. Forest, or timbered Land. In general,
Illinois is abundantly supplied with timber,
and were it equally distributed through the
State, there would be no part in want. The
apparent scarcity of timber where the prairie
predominates, is not so great an obstacle to
the settlement of the country as has been sup-
posed. For many of the purposes to which
timber is applied, substitutes are found. The
rapidity with which the young growth pushes
itself forward, without a single effort on the
part of man to accelerate it, and the readiness
with which the prairie becomes converted into
thickets, and then into a forest of young tim-
ber, shows that, in another generation, timber
will not be wanting in any part of Illinois.
The kinds of timber most abundant are
oaks of various species, black and white wal-
nut, ash of several kinds, elm, sugar maple,
honey locust, hackberry, linden, hickory, cot-
ton wood, pecaun, mulberry, buckeye, syca-
more, wild cherry, box elder, sassafras, and
persimmon. In the southern and eastern parts
of the State are yellow poplar, and beech;
near the Ohio are cypress, and in several
counties are clumps of yellow pine and cedar.
On the Calamick, near the south end of lake
Michigan, is a small forest of white pine. The
undergrowth are redbud, pawpaw, sumach,
FOR EMIGRANTS. 263
plum, crab apple, grape vines, dogwood, spice
bush, green brier, hazle, &c.
The alluvial soil of the rivers produces cot-
ton wood and sycamore timber of amazing-
size.
For ordinary purposes there is now timber
enough in most parts of the State, to say
nothing about the artificial production of tim-
ber, which may be effected with little trouble
and expense. The black locust, a native of
Ohio and Kentucky, may be raised from the
seed, with less labor than a nursery of apple
trees. It is of rapid growth, and, as a valua-
ble and lasting timber, claims the attention of
our farmers. It forms one of the cleanliest
and most beautiful shades, and when in blos-
som gives a rich prospect, and sends abroad
a delicious fragrance.
6. Kiiohsj Bluffs, Ravines, and Sinl-hoks.
Under these heads are included tracts of un-
even country found in various parts of the
State.
Knobs are ridges of flint limestone, inter-
mingled and covered with earth, and elevated
one or two hundred feet above the common
surface. This species of land is of little value
for cultivation, and usually has a sprinkling of
dwarfish, stunted timber, like the barrens.
The steep hills and natural mounds that
border the alluvions have obtained the name
of bluffs. Some are in long, parallel ridges,
others are in the form of cones and pyramids.
In some places precipices of limestone rock,
264 peck's guide
from fifty to one or two hundred feet high,
form these bluffs.
Ravines are formed amongst the bluffs, and
often near the borders of prairies, which lead
down to the streams.
Sink-holes are circular depressions in the
surface, like a basin. They are of various
sizes, .from ten to fifty feet deep, and from ten
to one or two hundred yards in circumference.
Frequently they contain an outlet for the water
received by the rains. Their existence shows
that the substratum is secondary limestone,
abounding with subterraneous cavities.
There are but few tracts of stony ground in
the State; that is, where loose stones are
scattered over the surface, and imbedded in
the soil. Towards the northern part of the
State, tracts of stony ground exist. Quarries
of stone exist in the bluffs, and in the banks
of the streams and ravines throughout the
State.
The soil is porous, easy to cultivate, and
exceedingly productive. A strong team is re-
quired to break up the prairies, on account of
the firm, grassy sward which covers them.
But when subdued, they become fine, arable
lands.
Rivers, Sfc. — This State is surrounded and
intersected by navigable streams. The Mis-
sissippi, Ohio and Wabash rivers are on three
sides, — the Illinois, Kaskaskia, Sangamon,
Muddy, and many smaller streams are entirely
within its borders, — and the Kankakee, Fox,
FOR EMIGRANTS. 265
Rock, and Vermillion of the Wabash, run
part of their course within this State. The
Mississippi meanders its western border for
700 miles. Its principal tributaries within
Illinois, are Rock, Illinois, Kaskaskia, and
Muddy rivers. The Illinois river commences
at the junction of the Kankakee, which origi-
nates near the South Bend in Indiana, and
the DesPlaines, which rises in the Wisconsin
Territory. From their junction, the Illinois
runs nearly a west course, (receiving Fox
river at Ottawa, and Vermillion near the foot
of the rapids,) to Hennepin, where it curves
to the south and then to the south-west, re-
ceiving a number of tributaries, the largest of
which are Spoon river from the right and San-
gamon from the left, till it reaches Naples.
Here it bends gradually to the south, and
continues that course till within six miles of
the Mississippi, when it curves to the south-
east, and finally, to nearly an east course.
Its length, (without reckoning the windings of
the channel in navigation,) is about 260 miles,
and is navigable for steamboats at a moderate
stage of water to the foot of the rapids. The
large streams on the eastern side of the State
are Iroquois, a tributary to the Kankakee,
Vermillion of the Wabash, which enters that
river in Indiana, Embarras, that has its source
near that of the Kaskaskia, runs south-easterly,
and enters the Wabash 9 miles below Vin-
cennes, and Little Wabash near its mouth.
Along the Ohio, the only streams deserving
'^GG peck's guide
note are the Saline and Bay creeks, and Cash
river, the last of which enters the Ohio six
miles above its confluence with the Missis-
sippi.
Productions. — These are naturally classed
into mineral, animal and vegetable.
Minerals. The northern portion of Illinois
is inexhaustibly rich in mineral productions,
while coal, secondary limestone, and sand-
stone, are found in every part.
Iron ore has been found in the southern
parts of the State, and is said to exist in con-
siderable quantities in the northern parts.
Native copper, in small quantities, has been
found on Muddy river, in Jackson county,
and back of Harrisonville, in the bluffs of
Monroe county. Crystallized gypsum has
been found in small quantities in St. Clair
county. Quartz crystals exist in Gallatin
county.
Silver is supposed to exist in St. Clair
county, two miles from Rock Spring, from
whence Silver creek derives its name. In
early times, a shaft was sunk here, by the
French, and tradition tells of large quantities
of the precious metals being obtained.
In the southern part of the State, several
sections of land have been reserved from sale,
on account of the silver ore they are supposed
to contain.
Lead is found in vast quantities in the
northern part of Illinois, and the adjacent
territory. Here are the richest lead mines
FOR E3IIGRANTS. 267
hitherto discovered on the globe. This por-
tion of country lies principally north of Rock
river and south of the Wisconsin. Dubuque's,
and other rich mines, are west of the Missis-
sippi.
Native copper, in large quantities, exists in
this region, especially at the mouth of Plum
creek, and on the Peek-a-ton-o-kee, a branch
of Rock river.
The following is a list of the principal dig-
gings in that portion of the lead mine region
that lies between Rock river and the Wiscon-
sin, embracing portions of Illinois State, and
Wisconsin Territory. Some of these dig-
gings are, probably, relinquished, and many
new ones commenced.
Apple Creek, Plattsville,
Galena and vicinity, Cassville and vicinity,
Cave Diggings, Madden's,
Buncombe, Mineral Point,
Natchez, Dodgeville,
Hardscrabble, Worke's Diggings,
New Diggings, Brisbo's,
Gratiot's Grove, Blue Mounds,
Spulburg, Prairie Springs,
W. S. Hamilton's, Hammett& Campbell's,
Cottle's, Morrison's,
McNutt's, and many others.
Menomonee Creek,
Amount of Lead Manufactured. For many
years the Indians, and some of the French
hunters and traders, had been accustomed to
dig lead in these regions. They never pehe«
trated much below the surface, but obtained
considerable quantities of the ore which they
sold to the traders.
In 1823, the late Col. James Johnson, of
Great Crossings, Ky., and brother to the Hon.
R. M. Johnson, obtained a lease of the United
States government, and made arrangements
to prosecute the business of smelting, with
considerable force, which he did the following
season. This attracted the attention of enter-
prising men in Illinois, Missouri, and other
States. Some went on in 1826, more followed
in 1827, and in 1828 the country was almost
literally filled with miners, smelters, mer-
chants, speculators, gamblers, and every de-
scription of character. Intelligence, enter-
prise, and virtue, were thrown in the midst of
dissipation, gaming,, and every species of vice.
Such was the crowd of adventurers in 1829,
to this hitherto almost unknown and desolate
region, that the lead business was greatly
overdone, and the market for awhile nearly
destroyed. Fortunes were made almost upon
a turn of the spade, and lost with equal facili-
ty. The business has revived and is profita-
ble. Exhaustless quantities of mineral exist
here, over a tract of country two hundred
miles in extent.
The following table shows the amount of
lead made annually at these diggings, from
1821, to Sept. 30, 1835:
FOR EMIGRANTS. 269
^bs. of lead made from I8I:
51, to Sept
1823,
335,130
do. for the year ending
Sept. 30,
1824,
175,220
do. do.
do.
1825,
664,530
do. do.
do.
1826,
958,842
do. do.
do.
1827,
5,182,180
do. do.
do.
1828,
11,105,810
do. do.
do.
1829,
13,344,150
do. do.
do.
1830,
8,323,998
do. do.
do.
1831,
6,381,900
do. do.
do.
1832,
4,281,876
do. do.
do.
1833,
7,941,792
do. do.
do.
1834,
7,971,579
do. do.
do.
Total,
1835,
3,754,290
70,420,357
The rent accruing to government for the
same period, is a fraction short of six millions
of pounds. The government formerly receiv-
ed 10 per cent, in lead for rent. Now it is 6
per cent.
A part of the mineral land in the Wisconsin
Territory has been surveyed and brought into
market, which will add greatly to the stability
and prosperity of the mining business.
Coal. Bituminous coal abounds in Illinois.
It may be seen, frequently, in the ravines
and gullies, and in the points of bluffs. Ex-
haustless beds of this article exist in the bluffs
of St. Clair county, bordering on the Ameri-
can bottom, of which large quantities are
transported to St. Louis, for fuel. There is
scarce a county in the State, but what can fur-
nish coal, in reasonable quantities. Large beds
are said to exist, near the Vermillion of the
12
270 peck's guide
Illinois, and in the vicinity of the rapids of
the latter.
Agatized Wood. A petrified tree, of black
walnut, was found in the bed of the river Des
Plaines, about forty rods above its junction
with the Kankakee, imbedded in a horizontal
position, in a stratum of sandstone. There is
fifty-one and a half feet of the trunk visible, —
eighteen inches in diameter at its smallest
end, and probably three feet at the other end.
Muriate of Soda, or common salt. This is
found in various parts of the State, held in
solution in the springs. The manufacture of
salt by boiling and evaporation is carried on
in Gallatin county, twelve miles west-north-
west from Shawneetown; in Jackson county,
near Brownsville; and in Vermillion county,
near Danville. The springs and land are
owned by the State, and the works leased.
A coarse freestone, much used in building,
is dug from quarries near Alton, on the Mis-
sissippi, where large bodies exist.
Scattered over the surface of our prairies,
are large masses of rock, of granitic forma-
tion, roundish in form, usually called by the
people ^^ lost rocks." They will weigh from
one thousand to ten or twelve thousand pounds,
and are entirely detached, and frequently are
found several miles distant from any quarry.
Nor has there ever been a quarry of granite
discovered in the State. These stones are
denominated bowlders in mineralogy. They
usually lie on the surface, or are partially im-
FOR EMIGRANTS. STl
bedded in the soil of our prairies, which is
unquestionably of diluvial formation. How
they came here is a question of difficult solu-
tion.
Medicinal Waters, are found in different
parts of the State. These are chiefly sulphur
springs and chalybeate waters. There is said
to be one well in the southern part of the
State strongly impregnated with the sulphate
of magnesia, or Epsom salts, from which con-
siderable quantities have been made for sale,
by simply evaporating the water, in a kettle,
over a common fire.
There are several sulphur springs in Jef-
ferson county, to which persons resort for
health.
Vegetable Productions. The principal trees
and shrubs of Illinois have been noticed under
the head of ^^ Forest or timbered land.^^ Of
oaks there are several species, as overcup,
burr oak, swamp or water oak, white oak, red
or Spanish oak, post oak, and black oak of
several varieties, with the black jack, a dwarf-
ish, gnarled looking tree, excellent for fuel,
but good for nothing else.
The black walnut is much used for building
materials and cabinet work, and sustains a
fine polish.
In most parts of the State, grape vines, in-
digenous to the country, are abundant, which
yield grapes that might advantageously be
made into excellent wine. Foreign vines are
susceptible of easy cultivation. These are
272 ?ECK^s Gvitft.
cultivated to a considerable extent at Vevay,
Switzerland county, Indiana, and at New Har-
mony on the Wabash. The indigenous vines
are prolific, and produce excellent fruit. They
are found in every variety of soil; interwoven
in every thicket in the prairies and barrens;
and climbing to the tops of the very highest
trees on the bottoms. The French in early
times, made so much wine as to export some
to France ; upon which the proper authorities
prohibited the introduction of wine from Illi-
nois, lest it might injure the sale of that staple
article of the kingdom. I think the act was
passed by the board of trade, in 1774.
The editor of the Illinois Magazine remarks,
*' We know one gentleman who made twenty-
seven barrels of wine in a single season, from
the grapes gathered with but little labor, in
his immediate neighborhood."
The wild plum is found in every part of the
State ; but in most instances the fruit is too
sour for use, unless for preserves. Crab
apples are equally prolific, and make fine pre-
serves with about double their bulk of sugar.
Wild cherries are equally productive. The
persimmon is a delicious fruit, after the frost
has destroyed its astringent properties. The
black mulberry grows in most parts, and is
Used for the feeding of silk-worms with suc-
cess. They appear to thrive and spin as well
as on the Italian mulberry. The gooseberry,
strawberry, and blackberry, grow wild and in
great profusion. Of our nuts, the hickory,
FOR EMIGRANTS.
273
black walnut, and pecaun, deserve notice.
The last is an oblong, thin shelled, delicious
nut, that grows on a large tree, a species of
the hickory, (the Carya olivceformis of Nuttall.)
The pawpaw grows in the bottoms, and rich,
timbered uplands, and produces a large, pulpy,
and luscious fruit. Of domestic fruits, the
apple and peach are chiefly cultivated. Pears
are tolerably plenty in the French settlements,
and quinces are cultivated with success by
some Americans. Apples are easily culti-
vated, and are very productive. They can
be made to bear fruit to considerable advan-
tage in seven years from the seed. Many
varieties are of fine flavor, and grow to a large
size. I have measured apples, the growth of
St. Clair county, that exceeded thirteen inches
in circumference. Some of the early Ameri-
can settlers provided orchards. They now
reap the advantages. But a large proportion
of the population of the frontiers are content
without this indispensable article in the com-
forts of ayankee farmer. Cider is made in small
quantities in the old settlements. In a few
years, a supply of this beverage can be had in
most parts of Illinois.
Peach trees grow with great rapidity, and
decay proportionably soon. From ten to fif-
teen years may be considered the life of this
tree. Our peaches are delicious, but they
sometimes fail by being destroyed in the germ
by winter frosts. The bud swells prema-
turely.
274 peck's guide
Garden Vegetables can be produced here in
vast profusion, and of excellent quality.
That we have few of the elegant and well
dressed gardens of gentlemen in the old states,
is admitted; which i^s not owing to climate, or
soil, but to the want of leisure and means.
Our Irish potatoes, pumpkins and squashes
are inferior, but not our cabbages, peas, beets,
or onions.
A cabbage head, two or three feet in diam-
eter including the leaves, is no wonder on this
soil. Beets often exceed twelve inches in
circumference. Parsnips will penetrate our
light, porous soil, to the depth of two or three
feet.
The cultivated vegetable productions in the field,
are maize or Indian corn, wheat, oats, barley,
buckwheat, Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes,
turnips, rye for horse feed and distilleries,
tobacco, cotton, hemp, flax, the castor bean,
and every other production common to the
Middle States.
Maize is a staple production. No farmer
can live without it, and hundreds raise little
else. This is chiefly owing to the ease with
which it is cultivated. Its average produce is
fifty bushels to the acre. I have oftentimes
seen it produce seventy-five bushels to the
acre, and in a few instances, exceed one hun-
dred.
Wheat yields a good and sure crop, espe-
cially in the counties bordering on the Illinois
river. It weighs upwards of 60 pounds per
FOR EMIGRANTS. . 275
bushel; and flour from this region has prefer-
ence in the New Orleans market, and passes
better inspection than the same article from
Ohio or Kentucky.
In 1825, the weevil, for the first time, made
its appearance in St. Clair and the adjacent
counties, and has occasionally renewed its
visits since. Latterly, some fields have been
injured by the fly.
A common, but slovenly practice amongst
our farmers, is, to sow wheat amongst the
standing corn, in September, and cover it by
running a few furrows with the plough be-
tween the rows of corn. The dry stalks are
then cut down in the spring, and left on the
ground. Even by this imperfect mode, fifteen
or twenty bushels of wheat to the acre are
produced. But where the ground is duly
prepared by fallowing, and the seed put in at
the proper time, a good crop, averaging from
twenty-five to thirty-five bushels per acre,
rarely fails to be procured.
The average price of wheat at present is a
dollar per bushel, varying a little according
to the competition of mills and facilities to
market. In many instances a single crop of
wheat will more than pay the expenses of pur-
chasing the land, fencing, breaking the prairie,
seed, putting in the crop, harvesting, thresh-
ing, and taking it to market. Wheat is now
frequently sown on the prairie land as a first
crop, and a good yield obtained.
Flouring mills are now in operation in many
216 peck's guide
of the wheat growing counties. Steam power
is getting into extensive use both for sawing
timber, and manufacturing flour.
It is to he regretted, that so few of our
farmers have erected barns for the security
of their crops. No article is more profitable,
and really more indispensable to a farmer,
than a large barn.
Oais have not been much raised till lately.
They are very productive, often yielding Irom
forty to fifty bushels on the acre, and usually
sell tor twenty-five cents the bushel. The
demand for the use of stage and travellers'
horses is increasing.
Hemp is an indigenous plant in the southern
part of this State, as it is in Missouri. It has
not been extensively cultivated; but wherever
tried, is found very productive, and of an ex-
cellent quality. It might be made a staple oi^
the country.
Tobacco, though a filthy and noxious weed,
which no human being ought ever to use, can
be produced in any quantity, and of the first
quality, in Illinois.
Coilon, for many years, has been success-
fully cultivated in this State for domestic use,
and some for exportation. Two or three spin-
ning factories are in operation, and produce
cotton yarn from the growth of the country
with promising success. This branch of busi-
ness admits of enlargement, and invites the
attention of eastern manufacturers with small
capital. Much of the cloth made in families
FOR EMIGRANTS. 277
who have emigrated from States south of the
Ohio is from the cotton of the country.
Flax is produced, and of a tolerable quality,
but not equal to that of the Northern States.
It is said to be productive and good in the
northern counties.
Barleij yields well, and is a sure crop.
The palma christi, or castor oil bean, is pro-
duced in considerable quantities in Madison,
Randolph, and other counties, and large quan-
tities of oil are expressed and sent abroad.
Sweet Potatoes are a delicious root, and
yield abundantly, especially on the American
bottom, and rich sandy prairies.
But little has been done to introduce culti-
vated grasses. The prairie grass looks coarse
and unsavory, and yet our horses and cattle
will thrive well on it.
To produce timothy with success, the ground
must be well cultivated in the summer, either
by an early crop, or by fallowing, and the
seed sown about the 20th of September, at the
rate of ten or twelve quarts of clean seed to the
acre, and lightly brushed in.
If the season is in any way favorable, it will
get a rapid start before winter. By the last
week in June, it will produce two tons per
acre, of the finest hay. It then requires a
dressing of stable or yard manure, and occa-
sionally the turf may be scratched with a har-
row, to prevent the roots from binding too
hard. By this process, timothy meadows may
be made and preserved. There are meadows
278 PECK S GUIDE
in St, Clair county, which have yielded heavy
crops of hay in succession, for several years,
and bid fair to continue for an indefinite pe-
riod. Cattle, and especially horses, should
never be permitted to run in meadows in Illi-
nois. The fall grass may be cropped down
by calves and colts. There is but little
more labor required to produce a crop of tim-
othy, than a crop of oats, and as there is not
a stone or a pebble to interrupt, the soil may
be turned up every third or fourth year for
corn, and afterwards laid down to grass again.
A species of blue grass is cultivated by
some farmers for pastures. If well set, and
not eaten down in summer, blue grass pas-
tures may be kept green and fresh till late in
autumn, or even in the winter. The English
spire grass has been cultivated with success
in the Wabash country.
Of the trefoil, or clover, there is but little
cultivated. A prejudice exists against it, as
it is imagined to injure horses by affecting the
glands of the mouth, and causing them to
slaver. It grows luxuriantly, and may be cut
for hay early in June. The white clover
comes in naturally, where the ground has
been cultivated, and thrown by, or along the
sides of old roads and paths. Clover pastures
would be excellent for swine.
Animals. Of wild animals there are several
species. The buffalo is not found on this side
the Mississippi, nor within several hundred
miles of St. Louis. This animal once roamed
FOR EMIGRANTS. 279
at large over the prairies of Illinois, and was
found in plenty, thirty-five years since. Wolves,
panthers and tvild cats, still exist on the fron-
tiers, and through the unsettled portions of
the country, and annoy the farmer by destroy-
ing his sheep and pigs.
Deer are also very numerous, and are valu-
able, particularly to that class of our popula-
tion which has been raised to frontier habits;
the flesh affording them food, and the skins,
clothing. Fresh venison hams usually sell for
twenty-five cents each, and when properly
cured, are a delicious article. Many of the
frontier people dress their skins, and make
them into pantaloons and hunting shirts.
These articles are indispensable to all who
have occasion to travel in viewing land, or for
any other purpose, beyond the settlements, as
cloth garments, in the shrubs and vines, would
soon be in strings.
It is a novel and pleasant sight to a stranger,
to see the deer in flocks of eight, ten, or fif-
teen in number, feeding on the grass of the
prairies, or bounding away at the sight of a
traveller.
The hroxvn hear is also an inhabitant of the
unsettled parts of this State, although he is
continually retreating before the advance of
civilization.
Foxes, raccoons, opossums, gophars, and
squirrels, are also numerous, as are muskrats,
otters, and occasionally beaver, about our
rivers and lakes. Raccoons are very com-
280 peck's guide
mon, and frequently do mischief in the fall, to
our corn. Opossums sometimes trouble the
poultry.
The gophar is a singular little animal, about
the size of a squirrel. It burrows in the
ground, is seldom seen, but its ivorks make it
known. It labors during the night, in digging
subterranean passages in the rich soil of the
prairies, and throws up hillocks of fresh earth,
within a few feet distance from each other,
and from twelve to eighteen inches in height.
The gray and fox squirrels often do mis-
chief in the corn-fields, and the hunting of
them makes fine sport for the boys.
Common rabbits exist in every thicket, and
annoy nurseries and young orchards exceed-
ingly. The fence around a nursery must
always be so close as to shut out rabbits; and
young apple trees must be secured, at the ap-
proach of winter, by tying straw or corn stalks
around their bodies, for two or three feet in
height, or the bark will be stripped off" by
these mischievous animals.
Wild horses are found ranging the prairies
and forests in some parts of the State. They
are small in size, of the Indian or Canadian
breed, and very hardy. They are found
chiefly in the lower end of the American Bot-
tom, near the junction of the Kaskaskia and
Mississippi rivers, called the Point. They are
the oflTspring of the horses brought there by
the first settlers, and which were suffered to
run at large. The Indians of the West have
li
TOR EMIGRANTS. 281
many such horses, which are commonly called
Indian ponies.
Domestic Animals. These are the same as
are found in other portions of the United
States. But little has been done to improve
the breed of horses amongst us. Our com-
mon riding or working horses average about
fifteen hands in height. Horses are much
more used here than in the Eastern States,
and many a farmer keeps half a dozen or
more. Much of the travelling throughout the
western country, both by men and women, is
performed on horseback; and a large propor-
tion of the land carriage is by means of large
wagons, with from four to six stout horses for
a team. A great proportion of the ploughing
is performed by horse labor. Horses are
more subject to diseases in this country than
in the old States, which is thought to be occa-
sioned by bad management, rather than by
the climate. A good farm horse can be pur-
chased for fifty dollars. Riding or carriage
horses, of a superior quality, cost about sev-
enty-five or eighty dollars. Breeding mares
are profitable stock for every farmer to keep,
as their annual expense in keeping is but tri-
fling: their labor is always needed, and their
colts, when grown, find a ready market.
Some farmers keep a stallion, and eight or
ten brood mares.
Mules are brought into Missouri, and find
their way to Illinois, from the Mexican do-
minions. They are a hardy animal, grow to
282 deck's guide
a good size, and are used by some, both for
labor and riding.
Our neat cattle are usually inferior in size to
those of the old States. This is owing entirely
to bad management. Our cows are not pen-
ned up in pasture fields, but suffered to run
at large over the commons. Hence all the
calves are preserved, without respect to qual-
ity, to entice the cows homeward at evening.
In autumn their food is very scanty, and
during the winter they are permitted to pick
up a precarious subsistence amongst fifty or a
hundred head of cattle. With such manage-
ment, is it surprising that our cows and steers
are much inferior to those of the old States.?
And yet, our beef is the finest in the world.
It bears the best inspection of any in the New
Orleans market. By the first of June, and
often by the middle of May, our young cattle
on the prairies are fit for market. They do
not yield large quantities of tallow, but the fat
is well proportioned throughout the carcass,
and the meat tender and delicious. By inferi-
ority, then, I mean the she of our cattle in
general, and the quantity and quality of the
milk of cows.
Common cows, if suffered to lose their milk
in August, become sufficiently fat for table use
by October. Fallow heifers and steers, are
good beef, and fit for the knife at any period
after the middle of May. Nothing is more
common than for an Illinois farmer to go
among his stock, select, shoot down, and dress
FOR EMIGRANTS. 283
a fine beef, whenever fresh meat is needed.
This is often divided out amongst the neigh-
bors, who in turn, kill and share likewise. It
is common at camp and other large meetings,
to kill a beef and three or four hogs for the
subsistence of friends from a distance.
Steers from three years old or more, have
been purchased in great numbers in Illinois,
by drovers from Ohio. Cattle are sometimes
sent in flat boats down the Mississippi and
Ohio, for the New Orleans market.
We can hardly place limits upon the amount
of beef cattle that Illinois is capable of pro-
ducing. A farmer calls himself poor, with a
hundred head of horned cattle around him.
A cow in the spring is worth from seven to
ten or fifteen dollars. Some of the best quality
will sell higher. And let it be distinctly un-
derstood, once for all, that a poor man can
always purchase horses, cattle, hogs, and pro-
visions, for labor, either by the day, month,
or job.
Cows, in general, do not produce the same
amount of milk, nor of as rich a quality as in
older States. Something is to be attributed
to the nature of our pastures, and the warmth
of our climate, but more to causes already
assigned. If ever a land was characterized
justly, as " flowing with milk and honey," it
is Illinois and the adjacent States. P^rom the
springing of the grass till September, butter
is made in great profusion. It sells at that
season in market for about ten cents. With
S84 PECK S GUIDE
proper care it can be preserved in tolerable
sweetness for v/inter's use. Late in autumn
and early in the winter, sometimes butter is
not plenty. The feed becomes dry, the cows
range further off, and do not come up readily
for milking, and dry up. A very little trouble
would enable a farmer to keep three or four
good cows in fresh milk at the season most
needed.
Cheese is made by many families, especial-
ly in the counties bordering on the Illinois
river, Good cheese sells for eight and some-
times ten cents, and finds a ready market.
Swine. This species of stock may be called
a staple in the provision of Illinois. Thou-
sands of hogs are raised without any expense,
except a few breeders to start with, and a
little attention in hunting them on the range,
and keeping them tame.
Pork that is made in a domestic way and
fatted on corn, will sell from three to four and
five dollars, according to size, quality, and
the time when it is delivered. With a pasture
of clover or blue grass, a well-filled corn crib,
a dairy, and slop barrel, and the usual care
that a New Englander bestows on his pigs,
pork may be raised from the sow, fatted, and
killed, and weigh from two hundred to two
hundred and fifty, within twelve months; and
this method of raising pork would be profita-
ble.
Few fiimilies in the west and south put up
their pork in salt pickle. Their method is to
FOR EMIGRANTS. 286
salt it sufficiently to prepare it for smoking,
and then make bacon of hams, shoulders, and
middlings or broadsides. The price of bacon,
taking the hog round, is about seven and eight
cents. Good hams command eight and ten
cents in the St. Louis market. Stock hogs,
weighing from sixty to one hundred pounds,
Tilive, usually sell from one to two dollars per
head. Families consume much more meat in
the West in proportion to numbers, than in
the old States.
Sheep do very well in this country, especial-
ly in the older settlements, where the grass
has become short, and they are less molested
by wolves.
Poulirij is raised in great profusion, — and
large numbers of fowls taken to market.
Ducks, geese, swans, and many other
•aquatic birds, visit our waters in the spring.
The small lakes and sloughs are often literally
covered with them. Ducks, and some of the
rest, frequently stay through the summer and
breed.
The prairie fowl is seen in great numbers
on the prairies in the summer, and about the
corn fields in the winter. This is the grouse
of the New York market. They are easily
taken in the winter.
Partridges, (the quail of New England,)
are taken with nets, in the winter, by hun-
dreds in a day, and furnish no trifling item in
the luxuries of the city market.
Bees. These laborious and useful insects
12*
PECK S GUIDE
are found in the trees of every forest.
Many of the frontier people make it a promi-
nent business, after the frost has killed the
vegetation, to hunt them for the honey and
wax, both of which find a ready market.
Bees are profitable stock for the farmer, and
are kept to a considerable extent.
Silk-ivo7ins are raised by a few persons.
They are capable of being produced to any
extent, and fed on the common black mulberry
of the country.
Manufactures. — In the infancy of a state^
little can be expected in machinery and manu-
factures. And in a region so much deficient
in water power as some parts of Illinois is,
still less may be looked for. Yet Illinois is
not entirely deficient in manutacturing enter-
prise.
Salt. The principal salines of this State
have been mentioned under the head of mine-
rals.
The principal works are at Gallatin, Big
Muddy, and Vermillion salines.
Steam Mills for flouring and sawing are be-
coming very common, and in general are
profitable. Some are now in operation with
four run of stones, and which manufacture
one hundred barrels of flour in a day. Mills
propelled by steam, water, and animal power,
are constantly increasing. Steam mills will
become numerous, particularly in the southern
and middle portions of the State, and it is de-
serving remark that, while these portions are not
FOR EMIGRANTS. 287
well supplied with durable water power, they
contain, in the timber of the forest, and the
inexhaustible bodies of bituminous coal, abun-
dant supplies of fuel; while the northern por-
tion, though deficient in fuel, has abundant
water power.
A good steam saw-mill with two saws can
be built for ^1,500; and a steam flouring mill
with two run of stones, elevators, and other
apparatus complete, and of sufficient force to
turn out forty or fifty barrels of flour per day,
may be built for from $3,500 to $5,000.
Ox mills on an inclined plane, and horse
mills by draught, are common through the
country.
Castor Oil. Considerable quantities of this
article have been manufactured in Illinois
from the palma christi, or castor bean. One
bushel of the beans will make nearly tvro gal-
lons of the oil. There are five or six castor
oil presses in the State, in Madison, Randolph,
Edwards, and perhaps in other counties. Mr.
Adams of Edwardsville, in 1825, made 500
gallons, which then sold at the rate of two
dollars fifty cents per gallon. In 1826, he
made 800 gallons; in 1827, 1000 gallons, — the
price then, one dollar seventy-five cents: in
1828, 1800 gallons, price one dollar. In 1830,
he started two presses and made upwards of
10,000 gallons, which sold for from seventy-
five to eighty-seven cents per gallon: in 1831,
about the same quantity. That and the fol-
lowing season being unfavorable for the pro-
duction of the bean, there has been a falling
288 peck's guide
off in the quantity. The amount manufactured
in other parts of the State has probably ex-
ceeded that made by Mr. Adams.
Lead. In Jo Daviess county are eight or
ten furnaces for smelting lead. The amount
of this article made annually at the mines of
the Upper Mississippi, has been given under
the head of minerals.
Boat Building will soon become a branch of
business in this State. Some steamboats have
been constructed already within this State,
along the Mississippi. It is thought that Alton
and Chicago are convenient sites for this busi-
ness.
There is in this State, as in all the Western
States, a large amount of domestic manufac-
tures made by families. All the trades, need-
fu>to a new country, are in existence. Car-
penters, wagon makers, cabinet makers, black-
smiths, tanneries, Stc, may be found in every
county and town, and thousands more are
wanted.
There has been a considerable falling off in
the manufacture of whiskey within a few years,,
and it is sincerely hoped by thousands of citi-
zens, that this branch of business, so decidedly
injurious to the morals and happiness of com-
munities and individuals, will entirely decline.
Several companies for manufacturing pur-
poses, have been incorporated by the legisla-
ture.
Civil Divisions. — There are 66 counties laid
off in this State, 59 of which are organized for
judicial purposes. The six last named in the
FOR EMIGRANTS.
289
following table were laid off at the recent
session of the legislature, Jan. 1836. The
county of Will was formed from portions of
Cook, Lasalle, and Iroquois, with the town of
Juliet for its seat of justice, near the junction
of the Kankakee and Des Plaines.
In this State, there are no civil divisions
into townships as in Ohio, Indiana, &.c. The
township tracts of six miles square, in the
public surveys, relate exclusively to the land
system. The State is divided into three dis-
tricts to elect representatives to Congress,
and into six circuits for judicial purposes.
TABULAR VIEW OF THE COUNTIES.
Counties.
.1
9 »
c
1
Seatsof Justice.
Distance &.
bearing
from Van-
dalia.
lb25
1819
1817
1825
1833
1819
1821
1824
18 ir,
I8:m
1830
1823
1814
1831
1821
1818
8-20
375
360
260
864
500
6-20
500
378
1248
els
200
486
684
850
798
249
519
151
102
451
1:2
414
519
(■)80
528
788
239
129
665
759
7042
2050
3580
1091
1045
3413
1648
2648
3540
5125
9826
6668
200(i
10.5,5
3638
5551
175 H. ic.
Alxander, ...
Bond,
Calhoun,
Champaign, ..
Clark,
Clay,
Unity,
Greenville,
Gilead,
UrbaiHia,
Darwin,* or (
Marshall, \
Maysville,
Carlyle,
Palestine,
Charleston,
Chicago,
Paris,
All.ion,
Ewington,
Vandalia,
Frankfort,
135 s.
19 w.s. w.
1.34 10.71. w.
103 n. n. e.
82 e. 7J. e.
50 s. e.
Clinton,
Crawford,
Cole?,
Cook,
Edgar,
Edward?<,
Effingham, ...
Fayette,
Franklin,
28 s. s. w.
100 e.
75 11. e.
268 71. 11. e.
100 71. e.
96 s. e.
29 e. n. e.
83 s.
* It is expected the seat of justice of Clark county will be removed
to Marshall, 10 miles N. VV. from Darwin, and on the National Road.
The distance is computed to Marshall.
f These counties have been recently subdivided, and their superfi-
cial area is not known.
290
PECK S GUIDE
TABULAR VIEW CONTINUED.
Counties.
Fulton,
Gallatin, ....
Greene,
Hamilton, ...
Hancock, .. ..
Henry, (not or
ganized,) . .
Iroquois, ....
Jackson, ....
Jasper,
Jefferson, ....
Jo Daviess, . .
Johnson,
Knox,
Lasalle,
Lawrence,...
Macon,
Madison,
Macoupin, . . .
Marion,
McDonough, .
McLean,
Mercer,
Monroe,
Montgomery,
Morgan,
Peoria,
Perry,
Pike,
Pope,
Putnam,
Randolph, . . .
Rock Island, .
Sangamon,...
Schuyler, ....
Shell.y,
St. Clair,
Tazewell, ...
Union,
Vermillion, . .
Wnbash, ....
Warren,
Washington,.
Wayne,
White
«2
i
s
o
a
s>
.s
J«
2 c
Kj
a
a"'
^
^
>
;S
1825
590
607
5917
1812
828
1312
8660
1821
912
1360
12274
1821
378
460
2877
1825
775
357
3249
1825
800
118
1833
t
67
1164
1816
576
354
2783
1831
288
415
1819
576
455
3350
1827
t
492
4038
1812
486
316
2166
1825
792
180
1600
1831
t
289
4754
1821
560
618
4450
1829
1404
292
302-2
1812
750
1307
9016
1829
720
624
5554
1823
576
372
2844
1825
576
304
2883
1830
1916
496
5311
1825
558
497
1816
360
449
2660
1821
960
475
3740
1823
11.50
2717
19214
1825
648
223
3220
1827
446
273
2201
1821
800
657
6037
1816
.576
444
3756
1825
1340
383
4021
1795
540
814
5(i95
1831
377
83
616
1821
1234
2219
17573
1825
8t;4
680
6361
1827
1080
636
4848
1795
1030
1183
9055
1827
1130
433
5850
1818
396
545
4i.-,f;
18211
1000
1025
8103
1H24
180
441
3010
1825
900
266
2623
1818
6.56
333
3292
1819
.576
471
2939
1815
516
977
6489
Seats OF Justice
Lewistown,. . .
Equality,
Carrollton, . . .
McLeansboro',
Carthage, ....
(Not established,)
Brownsville, ....
Newton, •
Mount Vernon,..
Galena, (yi. n. ic.)
Vienna,
Knoxville,
Ottawa,
Lawrenceville,...
D-?catur,
Edwardsville, . . .
Carlinville,
Salem,
Macomb,
Bloomingtoii, ....
New Boston,
Waterloo,
Hillsboro',
Jacksonville,
Peoria,
Pinckneyville, ...
Pittsfield,
Golconda,
Hennepin,
Kaskaskia,
Stephenson,
Springfield,
Rushville,
Shelbyville,
Belleville,
Treniont,
J()nes!)oro',
Danville,
Mount Carniel, . .
Monmouth,
Nashville,
Fairfield,
Carmi,
S;2
.2^
135 n. n. to.
100 s. s. e.
90 w. n. w.
76 s. s. e.
180 n. w.
210 71. n. w.
165 n. n. e.
96 5. s. w.
60 e.
48 s. s. e.
300 n. n. w.
120 s.
182 11. n. to.
187 n.
88 e. s. e.
75 11.
58 w.
55 w. n. w,
25 6. s. e.
1 55 n. w.
120 11.
209 rt. w.
72 s. w.
28 11. w.
91 W.W.
141 n. n. w.
71 *% s. to.
126 w. n. w.
130 s. s. e.
180 11.
90 s. s. w.
220 ,1. w.
79 7^ 71. w.
12S n. w.
40 7J. 71. e.
64 w. s. 10.
131 71.
120 *•.
135 71. e.
95 s. e.
184 11. to.
48 s. s. w.
76 s. e.
103 s. e.
FOR EMlGltA?fTS,
291
TABULAR VIEW CONTINUED.
J^ew Counties
formed, Jan.
1836,
B
as
Seats of Justice.
Will,
Whiteside, ...
Kane,
0"le,
1836
Juliett.
These counties were ta--
ken from Jo Daviess, La-
salle, Cook, and Iroquois-
The seats of justice not
established, anil much ot'
the land unstirveyed,
though rapidly settling.
McHenry, ....
Winnobago, ..
Total,
34,102
272,427
SKETCHES OF EACH COUNTY,
Adams. — The streams are Bear creek and
branches, Cedar, Tyrer, Mill, Fall, and Pigeon
creeks, with the Mississippi river on its west-
ern border. Timber various, with equal por-
tions of prairie. First rate county.
Alexander. — In the forks of the Ohio and
Mississippi, with Cash river through it. All
timbered, — half alluvion, — some inundated at
high water,— lime and sandstone on the Ohio;
■ — soil, generally rich.
Bond. — -Shoal creek and its branches
through it, with Hurricane creek on the east
side; — proportioned into timber and prairie;
—rather level, — second rate. Sandstone, coal,
and salt springs.
Calhoun. — Long and narrow, in the forks
of the Illinois and Mississippi; — alluvial and
sometimes inundated along the rivers; — broken
bluffs and interior table land; — good soil; — -
prairies at the foot of the bluffs. Coal, lime
and sandstone.
Champaign.— The streams are the headis
of the Kaskaskia, Sangamon, Vermillion of
Illinois, Salt Fork of the Vermillion of the Wa-
bash, and the Embarras, all running in oppo-
site directions. Extensive prairies, a little
undulating and rich;— timber in groves; —
many granite bowlders,
Clark. — North Fork of Embarras, Mill and
Big creeks. Timber and prairie,-— second
rate soil.
Clay. — Watered by Little Wabash and
tributaries. Two thirds prairie,— of inferior
xjuality,— -rather level and wet.
Clinton.— Kaskaskia river, with its tribu*
taries, Crooked, Shoal, Beaver and Sugar
creeks, pass through it. Equally proportioned
into timber and prairie. Soil, second rate;
surface, a little undulating.
Coles.— The Kaskaskia, Embarras, and
heads of the Little Wabash water it. Much
excellent land, — ^much undulating, rich prai-
rie;— some level and wet land in the south-
eastern part. Timber in sufficient quanti-
ties.
Cook.— Adjoins Lake Michigan, and has
the branches of Chicago, Des Plaines, Du
Page, Au Sable and Hickory creeks. Sur-
face, tolerably level; rich soil, — extensive
prairies, — timber in groves; — a few swamps.
Plenty of limestone, and the streams run over
rocky beds.
Crawford. — -The W" abash river on its east-
ern side, withLamotte, Hudson, Raccoon and
FOR EMIGRANTS. 293
Sugar creeks. Some level prairies, rather
sandy, with a full supply of timber.
Edgar. — Watered by Big, Clear, and Bru-
lette's creeks on the eastern, and Little Em-
barras on its western side. Southern and
eastern sides timbered; northern and western
sides much prairie; some undulating, — some
level and rather wet. Grand View is a de-
lightful tract of country.
Edwards. — The Little Wabash on its west-
ern, and Bon Pas on its eastern border.
Several prairies, high, undulating, and bound-
ed by heavy timber. Soil, second quality.
Effingham. — Watered by the Little Wa-
bash and its tributaries; due proportion of tim-
ber and prairie; tolerably level, — second rate.
Fayette. Kaskaskia river, Hurricane.
Higgens', Ramsey's and Beck's creeks. The
bottom lands on the Kaskaskia low, and inun-
dated at high water; considerable prairie;
much heavy timber; soil, second rate.
Franklin. — Watered by the Big Muddy
and its branches, and the South Fork of Saline
creek. The prairies small, fertile and level, —
timber plenty, — soil rather sandy.
Fulton. — The Illinois on the south-eastern
side, with Spoon river and several small
creeks through it. About half heavily tim-
bered, with rich, undulating prairies; streams
flow over a pebbly bed; soil, first rate.
Gallatin — Joins the Wabash and Ohio
rivers, and has the Saline and branches run-
ning through it. Soil, sandy, with sand rock,
13
294 peck's guide
limestone, quartz crystals, excellent salines,
&c. Timber of various kinds; no prairies.
Greene — Has the Mississippi south, the
Illinois west, with Otter, Macoupen and Apple
creeks. Much excellent land, both timber
and prairie, in due proportion, with abundance
of lime and sandstone, and coal.
Hamilton. — Watered by branches of the
Saline, and Little Wabash; a large proportion
timbered land; soil, second and third rate, with
some swamp in the northern part. Sandstone
and some lime.
Hancock. — Besides the Mississippi, it has
a part of Bear, Crooked, and Camp creeks;
large prairies; timber along the streams; rich,
first rate land.
Henry — Has Rock river north, with Win-
nebago swamp, and its outlet on Green river,
and one of the heads of Spoon river, and Ed-
"vvards river interior. Some rich, undulating
prairies and groves, with considerable wet,
swampy land. Not much population.
Iroquois. — Kankakee, Iroquois and Sugar
creek. Sand ridges and plains; much rich
prairie; some timber, but deficient. It is
found chiefly in groves and strips along the
water courses. •
Jackson — Has the Mississippi on the south-
west, and Muddy river running diagonally
through it, with some of its tributaries. Some
prairies in the north-eastern part, — much
heavy timber, — some hilly and broken land, —
FOR EMIGRANTS. 295
with abundance of coal, saline springs, lime
and sandstone.
Jasper. — The Embarras runs through it,
and the Muddy Fork of the Little Wabash
waters its western side. Much of both the
prairie and timbered land is level and rather
wet; some fertile tracts.
Jefferson, — Watered by several branches
of the Big Muddy and Little Wabash. Soil,
second rate; surface, a little undulating; one
third prairie; several sulphur and other medi-
cinal springs,
Jo Daviess — Formerly embraced all the
State north-west of Rock river, but recently
divided into three or four counties. Besides
the Mississippi, it has Fever river, Pekatono-
.kee, Apple river, and Rush and Plum creeks.
A rich county, both for agricultural and
mining purposes. Timber scarce, and in
groves; surface undulating, — in some places
hilly; well watered by streams and springs,
and has good mill sites. Copper and lead ore
in abundance,
Johnson. — The Ohio on the south. Cash
river and Big Bay creek, and a series of lakes
or ponds interior. A timbered country, toler-
ably level; soil sandy, with considerable quan-
tities of second rate land.
Knox. — Watered by Henderson and Spoon
rivers, and their tributaries. The prairies
large, moderately undulating, and first quality
of soil, with excellent timber along the water
courses.
296 peck's guide
Lasalle. — Besides the Illinois river, which
passes through it, Fox river, Big and Little
Vermillion, Crow, Au Sable, Indian, Mason,
Tomahawk, and other creeks, water this coun-
ty. They generally run on a bed of sand or
lime rock, and have but little alluvial bottom
lands. Deficient in timber, but has an abun-
dance of rich, undulating prairie, beautiful
groves, abundant water privileges, and exten-
sive coal banks.
Lawrence.. — The Wabash east. Fox river
west, and Embarras and Raccoon through it.
An equal proportion of timber and prairie,
some excellent, other parts inferior, — and
some bad, miry swamps, called "' j)urgato-
nes."
Macon. — South-east portion, watered by the
Kaskaskia and tributaries; the middle and
northern portions by the North Fork of San-
gamon, and the north-western part by Salt
creek. The prairies large, and in their inte-
rior, level and wet, — towards the timber, dry,
undulating and rich.
Madison. — The Mississippi lies west; Ca-
hokia and Silver creeks, and Wood river, run
through it. A part of this county lies in the
American bottom, and is a rich and level allu-
vion; but much of the county is high, undu-
lating, and proportionably divided into timber
and prairie. Well supplied with stone quar-
ries and coal banks.
Macoupen. The Macoupen creek and
branches water its central and western parts,
FOR EMIGRANTS. 297
the Cahokia the south-eastern, and the heads
of Wood river and Piasau, the south-western
parts. A large proportion of the county is
excellent soil, well proportioned into timber
and prairie, and slightly undulating.
Marion. — Watered by the East Fork, and
Crooked creek, tributaries of Kaskaskia river,
on its western, and heads of Skillet Fork of
Little Wabash on its eastern side. Much of
the land of second quality, slightly undulating,
about one third timbered, — some of the prairie
land level, and inclined to be wet.
McDoNOUGH. Crooked creek and its
branches water most of the county. The
eastern side, for 8 or 10 miles in width, is
prairie, — the western and middle parts suita-
bly divided between prairie and forest land;
surface, moderately undulating; soil, very
rich.
McLean. — One third of the eastern, and a
portion of the northern side, is one vast prai-
rie. The timber is beautifully arranged in
groves; the surface moderately undulating,
and the soil dry and rich. The head waters
of the Sangamon, Mackinau, and the Vermil-
lion of the Illinois, are in this county. Its
minerals are quarries of lime and sandstone,
and granite bowlders, scattered over the
prairies.
Mercer — Has the Mississippi on the west,
and Pope and Edwards rivers interior, along
which are fine tracts of timber; in its middle
and eastern parts are extensive prairies; sur-
face, generally undulating; soil, rich.
298 peck's guide
Monroe. — Watered by Horse, Prairie de
Long, and Fountain creeks. The American
bottom adjacent to the Mississippi is rich allu-
vion, and divided into timber and prairie. On
the bluffs are ravines and sink-holes, with
broken land. Further interior is a mixture of
timber and prairie. Abundance of limestone,
coal, and some copper.
Montgomery. — Watered by Shoal creek
and branches, and Hurricane Fork. Surface,
high and undulating, and proportionably di-
vided into timber and prairie. Soil, second
rate,
Morgan. — A first rate county, — well pro-
portioned into prairie and forest lands, — much
of the surface undulating; watered by the Illi-
nois river and Mauvaise-terre, Indian, Plum,
Walnut, and Sandy creeks, and heads of Apple
creek. Coal, lime and freestone.
Peoria. — Watered by the Illinois, Kicka-
poo. Copperas, Senatchwine, and heads of
Spoon river. Surface, moderately rolling,
rich soil, and proportionately divided into
prairie and forest.
Perry. — Streams; BigBeaucoup, and Little
Muddy; one third prairie, tolerably level, and
second rate soil.
Pike. Besides Mississippi and Illinois,
which wash two sides, it has the Suycartee
slough, running through its western border,
and navigable for steamboats, and a number
of smaller creeks. The land and surface
various, — much of it excellent undulating soil,
— some rich alluvion, inundated at high water.
Ji
FOR EMIGRANTS. 299
— large tracts of table land, high, rolling, and
rich, with due proportion of timber and prairie.
A large salt spring.
Pope. — With the Ohio river east and south,
it has Big Bay, Lusk's, and Big creeks inte-
rior. A timbered region, tolerably level, ex-
cept at the bluffs, with good sandy soil, and
sand and limestone.
PuTNA3i. — The Illinois runs through it, —
Spoon river waters its north-western part, and
Bureau, Crow, Sandy, and some other streams,
water its middle portions. Here are beautiful
groves of timber, and rich, undulating and
dry prairies, fine springs, and good mill sites.
Lime, sand and freestone, and bituminous
coal. A few tracts of wet prairie, with some
ponds and swamps, are in the north-western
part.
Randolph — Has the Mississippi along the
western side; Kaskaskia river passes diagonal-
ly through it; soil, of every quality, from lirst
rate to indifferent; surliice, equally as various,
with rocky precipices at the termination of the
alluvial bottoms.
Rock Island — Is at the mouth of Rock
river, which, with the Mississippi, and some
minor streams, drain the county. Rich allu-
vion along the Mississippi, with much excel-
lent table land, — both timber and prairie in-
terior. Some wet, level prairie, south of
Rock river.
Sangamon. — Watered by Sangamon river
and its numerous branches. Much of the soil
300 peck's guide
is of the richest quality, with due proportions
of timber and prairie, moderately undulating,
and a first rate county.
Schuyler. — The south-eastern side has the
Illinois, the interior has Crooked and Crane
creeks, and the south-west has McKee's creek.
Along the Illinois is much timber, with some
inundated bottom lands. Interior, there is a
due proportion of prairie and timber and rich
soil, with an undulating surface.
Shelby — Is watered by the Kaskaskia and
tributaries; has a large amount of excellent
land, both timber and prairie, with good soil,
moderately undulating.
St. Clair. The streams are Cahokia,
Prairie du Pont, Ogle's, Silver, Richland, and
Prairie de Long creeks, and Kaskaskia river.
The land is various, much of which is good,
first and second rate, and proportionably di-
vided into timber, prairie, and barrens. The
minerals are lime and sandstone, and exten-
sive beds of coal, and shale.
Tazewell. — Watered by the Illinois, Mac-
kinau, and their tributaries. Much of the
surface is undulating, soil rich; prairie pre-
dominates, but considerable timber, with some
broken land about tlic bluffs of Mackinau, and
some sand ridges and swamps in the southern
part of the county.
Union. — Watered by the Mississippi, Clear
creek, the heads of Cash, and some of the
small tributaries of the Big Muddy. Much of
the surface is rolling and hilly, — all forest
FOR EMIGRANTS.
301
land. Soil, second and third rate. Some rich
alluvial bottom.
Vermillion — Is watered by Big and Little
Vermillion of the Wabash, with large bodies
of excellent timber along the streams, and
rich prairies interior. Surface, undulating
and dry; soil, deep, rich, and calcareous.
Wabash — Has Wabash river on the east,
Bon Pas on the west, and some small creeks
central; surface rolling, and a mixture of tim-
ber and prairie; soil, generally second rate.
Minerals; lime and sandstone.
Warren. — Besides the Mississippi, its prin-
cipal stream is Henderson river, which passes
through it, with Ellison, Honey, and Camp
creeks. Much of the land on these streams is
rich, undulating, deficient somewhat in timber,
with excellent prairie. Along the Mississippi,
and about the mouth of Henderson, the land
is inundated in high water.
Washington — Has the Kaskaskia on its
north-western side, with Elkhorn, Little Mud-
dy, Beaucoup, and Little Crooked creeks in-
terior. The prairies are rather level, and in
places inclined to be wet; the timber, espe-
cially along the Kaskaskia, heavy.
Wayne. — The Little Wabash, with its trib-
utaries. Elm river, and Skillet Fork, are its
streams. It is proportionably interspersed with
prairie and woodland, generally of second
quality.
White. — The eastern side washed by the
Big Wabash, along which is a low, inundated
bottom; the interior is watered by the Little
302 peck's guide
Wabash and its tributaries. Some prairie,
but mostly timber. Soil and surface various.
Some rich bottom prairies, with sandy soil.
TOWNS.
Vandalia is the seat of government till
1840, after which it is to be removed to Alton,
according to avote of the people in 1834, unless
they should otherwise direct. It is situated
on the right bank of the Kaskaskia river, in
N. lat. 39° 0' 42", and 58 miles in a direct
line, a little north of east from Alton. The
public buildings are temporary. Population,
about 750.
Alton. Two towns of this name are distin-
guished as Alton, and Upper Alton. Alton is
an incorporated town, situated on the bank of
the Mississippi, two and a half miles above
the mouth of the Missouri, and at the place
where the curve of the Mississippi penetrates
the furthest into Illinois, 18 miles below the
mouth of the Illinois river. For situation,
commerce, business of all kinds, health, and
rapidity of growth, it far exceeds any other
town on the east bank of the Mississippi,
above New Orleans. The population is about
2000. The commercial business done here
is already immense, and extends through more
than half of Illinois, besides a large trade on
the western side of the Mississippi. Five
large mercantile establishments do wholesale
business only, four do wholesale and retail,
besides four wholesale and retail groceries,
FOR EMIGRANTS. 303
and fifteen or twenty retail stores and groce-
ries ; and yet many more mercantile houses are
necessary for the business of the country.
Great facilities for business of almost every de-
scription, especially for every kind of mechan-
ics, are to be had here. It offers one of the
best situations on the western waters for build-
ing and repairing steamboats. Town lots and
lands adjacent have risen in value from 500 to
1000 percent, within the last twelve months.
Alton has respectable and well finished
houses of worship for the Presbyterian, Metho-
dist Protestant, and Baptist denominations;
two good schools, a Lyceum, that holds weekly
meetings, and two printing-offices. The
population in general, is a moral, industrious,
enterprising class. Few towns in the West
have equalled this in contributions for public
and benevolent objects, in proportion to age
and population.
Arrangements have been made for doing
an extensive business in the slaughtering and
packing of pork and beef. Four houses are
engaged in that line, and have slaughtered
about 25,000 hogs the present season. Many
buildings will be erected the approaching
season, amongst which will be an extensive
hotel, which is much needed. The town is
situated at the base, side, and top, of the first
blufis that extend to the river, above the
mouth of the Kaskaskia. Adjacent to it, and
which will eventually become amalgamated,
is Middletown, laid off directly in the rear.
304 peck's guide
Upper Mton is from two and a half to three
miles back from the river, and in the rear of
Lower Alton, on elevated ground, and in every
respect a very healthy situation. It has ex-
ceeding 120 families, and is rapidly improving.
Adjacent to it, and forming now a part of the
town plat, is '^ Shurtleff College, of Jilton, llli-
nois,^^ which bids fair to become an important
and flourishing institution. Also ^'' Mton Theo-
logical Semmarij,^'' which has commenced oper-
ations. Both these institutions have been got-
ten up under the influence and patronage of
the Baptist denomination. A female seminary
of a high order, under the name of the ^^ Mton
Female Institute,^^ has been chartered, and a
building is about to be erected for the purpose.
The Baptists, Methodists and Presbyterians
have congregations here, and two houses of
worship are to be built the present year.
Chicago is the largest commercial town in
Illinois. It is situated at the junction of North
and South branches, and along the main Chi-
cago, near its entrance into lake Michigan,
on a level prairie, but elevated above the high-
est floods. A recent communication from a
respectable mercantile house, gives the fol-
lowing statistics: "Fifty-one stores, 30 gro-
ceries, 10 taverns, 12 physicians, 21 attornies,
and 4,000 inhabitants. We have four churches,
and two more building, one bank, a Marine
and Fire Insurance company about to go into
operation, and a brick hotel, containing 90
apartments.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 305
There were 9 arrivals and departures of
steamboats in 1835, and 267 of brigs and
schooners, containing 5,015 tons of merchan-
dise and 9,400 barrels of salt, besides lumber,
provisions, &c.
The harbor now constructing by the U. S.
government, will be so far completed in 1836,
as to admit vessels and steamboats navigating
the lakes. A few miles back of Chicago are
extensive tracts of wet prairie.
Galena is the seat of justice for Jo Daviess
county, situated on Fever river, in the midst
of the mining district. It has about 20 stores,
a dozen groceries, and about 1 ,000 inhabitants.
Springfield is near the geographical centre
of the State, and in the midst of a most fer-
tile region of country. It is a flourishing in-
land town, and contains about 2,000 inhabi-
tants. Jacksonville, the county seat of Morgan
county, has about the same population, and is
equally delightful and flourishing.
One mile west, on a most beautiful eminence,
stands '^Illinois College,'' founded under the
auspices of the Presbyterian denomination,
and bids fair to become a flourishing seat of
learning.
I have not room to name, much less describe,
the many growing towns and villages in this
State, that excite and deserve the attention
of emigrants. On the Illinois river are Otta-
wa, and several eligible sites in its vicinity,
where towns have commenced; Beardstown,
a short distance below the mouth of Sangamon
306 peck's guide
river, Peoria, at the foot of Peoria lake, (a
most beautiful site, and containing 1,000 in-
habitants,) Meredosia, Naples, Pekin, Hen-
nepin, &c. On the Mississippi, are Quincy,
Warsaw, New Boston, and Stephenson, the
seat of justice for Rock Island county. Inte-
rior, are Bloomington, Decatur, Tremont,
Shelbyville, Hillsboro', Edwardsville, Carlyle,
Belleville, Carrollton, and many others. To-
wards the Wabash, are Danville, Paris, Law-
renceville, Carmi, and Mount Carmel, the
last of which has an importance from being
connected with the grand rapids of the Wa-
bash. Shawneetown is the commercial depot
for the south-eastern part of the State. On
the Military Tract are Rushville, Pittsfield,
Griggs ville, Carthage, Macomb, Monmouth,
Knoxville, Lewistown, Canton, &c., all pleas-
ant sites, and having a population from two or
three hundred to one thousand inhabitants.
For a more particular description of each
county, town, and settlement, with all other
particulars of Illinois, the reader is referred to
"A Gazetteer of Illinois," by the author
of this Guide.
Projected Improvements, — The project of
uniting the waters of lake Michigan and the Il-
linois, by a canal, was conceived soon after the
commencement of the Grand canal of New
York, and a Board of commissioners, with en-
gineers, explored the route and estimated the
cost, in 1823. Provision, by a grant of each
alternate section of land within five miles of
FOR EMIGRANTS. 307
the route, having been granted by Congress,
another Board of commissioners was appoint-
ed in 1829, a new survey was made, and the
towns of Chicago and Ottawa laid off, and some
lots sold in 1830. Various movements have
since been made, but nothing effectually done,
until the recent special session of the legisla-
ture, when an act was passed to authorize the
Governor to borrow funds upon the faith of
the State; a new Board of commissioners has
been organized, and this great work is about
to be prosecuted with vigor to its completion.
Funds, in part, have been provided, from
the sales of certain saline lands belonging to
the State, to improve the navigation of the
Great Wabash, at the Grand Rapids, near the
mouth of White river, in conjunction with the
State of Indiana. From the same source,
funds are to be applied to the clearing out of
several navigable water-courses, and repair-
ing roads, within the State.
Charters have been granted to several rail-
road companies, some of which have been
surveyed and the stock taken. One from
Alton to Springfield was surveyed last year,
and the stock subscribed in December. Anoth-
er from St. Louis, by the coal mines of St.
Clair county, to Belleville, 13 miles, is expect-
ed to be made immediately. The project of a
central railway from the termination of the
Illinois and Michigan canal, at the foot of the
rapids, a few miles below Ottawa, — through
Bloomington, Decatur, Shelbyville, Vandalia,
308 peck's guide
and on to the mouth of the Ohio river, has
been entered upon with spirit. Another
chartercontemplatesthecontinuanceof aroute,
already provided for in Indiana, and noticed
under Ohio, from La Fayette, la. by Danville,
Shelbyville and Hillsboro,' to Alton, the near-
est point from the east to the Mississippi. A
rail-road charter was granted at a previous
session of the legislature from Meredosia to
Jacksonville, and another from Vincennes to
Chicago,
We have only room to mention the following
charters, which have been recently granted, in
addition to those already specified:
One from Pekin to Tremont, in Tazewell
county, 9 miles.
One from the Wabash, by Peoria to W^ar-
saw, in Hancock county.
The Wabash and Mississippi rail-road com-
pany.
The Mount Carmel and Alton rail-road com-
pany.
The Rushville rail-road company.
The Winchester, Lynville, and Jacksonville
rail-road company.
The Shawneetown and Alton rail-road com-
pany.
The Pekin, Bloomington, and Wabash rail-
road company.
The Waverly and Grand Prairie rail-road
company.
The Galena and Chicago Union rail-road
company.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 309
The Wabash and Mississippi Union rail-road
company.
The Mississippi, Carrollton and Springfield
rail-road company.
The JS'^afional Road is in progress through
this .State, and considerable has been made on
that portion which lies between Vandalia and
the boundary of Indiana. This road enters
Illinois at the north-east corner ot" Clark
county, and passes diagonally through Coles
and Effingham counties in a south-westerly
course to Vandalia, a distance of 90 miles.
The road is established 80 feet wide, the cen-
tral part 30 feet wide, raised above standing
water, and not to exceed three degrees from
u level. The base of all the abutments of
bridges must be equal in thickness to one
third of the height of the abutment.
The road is not yet placed in a travelling
condition. The line of the road is nearly di-
rect, the loss in 90 miles being only the 38th
part of one per cent. Between Vandalia and
Ewington, for 23 miles, it does not deviate in
the least from a direct line.
From Vandalia westward, the road is not
yet located, but it will probably pass to Alton.
Education. — The same provision has been
made for this as other Western States, in the
disposal of the public lands. The section
numbered sixteen in each township of land, is
sold upon petition of the people within the
township, and the avails constitute a perma-
nent fund, the interest of which is annually
13 *
310 peck's guide
applied towards the expenses, in part, of the
education of those who attend school, living
within the township.
A school system, in part, has been arranged
by the legislature. The peculiar and unequal
division of the country into timber and prairie
lands, and the inequality of settlements con-
sequent thereupon, will prevent, for many
years to come, the organization of school
districts with defined geographical boundaries.
To meet this inconvenience, the legislature
has provided that any number of persons can
elect three trustees, employ a teacher in any
mode they choose, and receive their proportion
of the avails of the school funds. In all cases,
however, the teacher must keep a daily account of
each scholar who attends school^ and make out a
schedule of the aggregate that each scholar cdtcnds,
every six months, and present it, certified by the
trustees of the school, to the school com-
missioner of the county, who apportions the
money accordingly.
This State receives three per cent, on all the
net avails of public lands sold in this State,
which, with the avails of two townships sold,
makes a respectable and rapidly increasing
fund, the interest only of which can be ex-
pended, and that only to the payment of in-
structers.
Good common school teachers, both male
and female, are greatly needed, and will meet
with ready employ, and liberal wages. Here
is a most delightful and inviting field for
FOR EMIGRANTS. 311
Christian activity. Common school, with Sun-
day school instruction, calls for thousands of
teachers in the West.
Several respectable academies, are in opera-
tion, and the wants and feelings of the community
call for many more. Besides the colleges at
Jacksonville and Alton already noticed, others
are projected, and several have been chartered.
The Methodist denomination have a building
erected, and a preparatory school commenced,
at Lebanon, St. Clair county. The Episco-
palians are about establishing a college at
Springfield. One or more will be demanded
in the northern and eastern portions of the
State; and it may be calculated that, in a very
brief period, the State of Illinois will furnish
facilities for a useful and general education,
equal to those in any part of the country.
Government. — The Constitution of Illinois was
formed by a convention held at Kaskaskia, in
August, 1818. It provides for the distribution
of the powers of government into three distinct
departments, — the legislative, executive, and
judiciary. The legislative authority is vested
in a general assembly, consisting of a senate
and house of representatives. Elections are
held biennially, as are the ordinary sessions
of the legislature. Senators arc elected for
four years.
The executive power is vested in the gov^
ernor, who is chosen every fourth year, by the
electors for representatives; but the same per-
son is ineligible for the next succeeding four
312 peck's guide
years. The lieutenant governor is also chosen
every four years.
The judicial power is vested in a supreme
court, and such inferior courts as the general
assembly from time to time shall establish.
The supreme court consists of a chief justice
and three associate judges.
The governor and judges of the supreme
court constitute a council of revision, to which
all bills that have passed the assembly must be
submitted. If objected to by the council of
revision, the same may become a law by the
vote of a majority of all the members elected
to both houses.
The right of suffrage is universal. All
white male inhabitants, citizens of the United
States, twenty-one years of age, and who have
resided within the State six months next pre-
ceding the elections, enjoy the right of
voting. Votes are given viva voce. The in-
troduction of slavery is prohibited. The Con-
stitution can only be altered by a convention.
GENERAL liEMARKS.
1. Farms somewhat improved, are almost
daily exchanging owners, and a considerable
spirit of enterprise has been awakened within
a year v r two past. The prices of farms and
improvements vary greatly, and are influenced
much by factitious and local circumstances.
From St. Clair county northward, they average
probably from five to ten dollars per acre, and
are rising in value. In some counties, farms
FOR EMIGRANTS. 313
will cost from 2 to 5 dollars per acre. A
farm in Illinois, however, means a tract of land,
much of it in a state of nature, with some
cheap, and, frequently, log buildings, with 20,
40, 60, 80, or 100 acres, fenced and cultivated.
Good dwellings of brick, stone, or wood,
begin to be erected. Amongst the older res-
idents, there have been but few barns made.
The want of adequate supplies of lumber,
and of mechanics, renders good buildings more
expensive than in the new countries of New
England or New York.
2. Merchant's goods, groceries, household
furniture, and almost every necessary and
comfort in house-keeping, can be purchased
here ; and many articles retail at about the same
prices as in the Atlantic States.
3. The following table will exhibit the cost
of 320 acres of land, at Congress price, and
preparing 160 acres for cultivation or prairie
land:
Cost of 320 acres at $1,25 per acre, §400
Breaking up 160 acres prairie, §2 per
acre, 320
Fencing it into four fields with a Ken-
tucky fence of eight rails high, with
cross stakes, 175
Add cost of cabins, corncribs, stable, &.c. 250
Making the cost of the farm, $1145
In many instances, a single crop of wheat
will pay for the land, for fencing, breaking up,
cultivating, harvesting, threshing, and taking
to market.
314 peck's guide
4. All kinds of mechanical labor, especially
those in the building line, are in great de-
mand; and workmen, even very coarse and
common workmen, get almost any price
they ask. Journeymen mechanics get ^2 per
day. A carpenter or brick mason wants no
other capital, to do first rate business, and
soon become independent, than a set of tools,
and habits of industry, sobriety, economy and
enterprise.
5. Common laborers on the farm obtain
/rom gl2 to $15 per month, including
board. Any young man, with industrious
habits, can begin here without a dollar, and
in a very fev/ years become a substantial
farmer. A good cradler in the harvest field
will earn from $1,50 to $2 per day.
6. Much that we have stated in reference
to Illinois, will equally apply to Missouri, or
any other Western State. Many general prin-
ciples have been laid down, and particular
facts exhibited, with respect to the general
description of the State, soil, timber, kinds of
land, and other characteristics, under Illinois,
and, to save repetition, are omitted elsewhere.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 3l5
CHAPTER XII.
MISSOURI.
Length, 278; medium breadth, 235 miles:
containing 64,500 square miles, and contain-
ing 41,280,000 acres.
Bounded north by the Des Moines country,
or New Purchase, attached to Wisconsin Ter-
ritory, west by the Indian Territory, south by
Arkansas, and east by the Mississippi river.
Between 36° and 40° SI' N. latitude, and be-
tween 11° 15' and 17° 30' west longitude.
Civil Divisions .--^It is divided into 50 coun-
ties, as follows: — Barry, Benton, Boone, Cal-
laway, Cape Girardeau, Carroll, Chaviton,
Clay, Clinton, Cole, Cooper, Crawford, Frank-
lin, Gasconade, Green, Howard, Jackson, Jef-
ferson, Johnson, La Fayette, Lewis, Lincoln,
Madison, Marion, Munroe, Montgomery, Mor-
gan, New Madrid, Perry, Pettis, Pike, Polk,
Pulaski, Randolph, Ralls, Ray, Ripley, Rives,
St. Francois, St. Genevieve, St. Charles, St.
Louis, Saline, Scott, Shelby, Stoddart, Van
Buren, Warren, Washington, and Wayne.
816 peck's guide
POPULATION AT DIFFERENT PERIODS,
Population
1810, (including Arkansas,) 19,8;«
1820, 66,586
1824, 80,000
1830, 140,4.'J5
1832, 176,276
1836, (estimated for Jan'y.) 210,000
Increase.
From 1810 to 1820, 46,753
" 1820" 1824, 14,500
" 1824" 1830, 60,455
" 1830" 1832, 35,820
" 1832" 1836, 33,724
The Constitution is similar to that of Illinois,
in its broad features, excepting the holding
of slaves is allowed, and the General Assem-
bly has no power to pass laws for the emanci-
pation of slaves, without the consent of their
owners, or paying an equivalent. It is made
the duty of the General Assembly "to oblige
the owners of slaves to treat them v/ith hu-
manity, and to abstain from all injuries to
them extending to life or limb." "Slaves
shall not be deprived of an impartial trial by
jury." In 1832, there were in the State,
32,184 slaves, and 661 free colored persons.
Every free white male citizen has the right of
suffrage, after a residence in the State of one
year.
Surface, Soil and Productions. — The surface
of this State is greatly diversified. South of
Cape Girardeau, with the exception of some
bluffs along the Mississippi, it is entirely allu-
vial, and a large proportion consists of swamp
and inundated lands, the most of which are
heavily timbered. From thence to the Mis-
souri river, and westward to the dividing
grounds between the waters of the Osage and
Gasconade rivers, the country is generally
FOR EMIGRANTS. 317
timbered, rolling, and in some parts, quite
hilly. No part of Missouri, however, is strictly
mountainous. Along the waters of Gasconade
and Black rivers the hills are frequently abrupt
and rocky, with strips of rich alluvion along
the water courses. Much of this region
abounds with minerals of various descriptions.
Lead, iron, coal, gypsum, manganese, zinc,
antimony, cobalt, ochre of various kinds, com-
mon salt, nitre, plumbago, porphyry, jasper,
chalcedony, buhrstone, marl)le, and freestone,
of various qualities. The lead and iron ore
are literally exhaustless, and of the richest
quality. To say there is probably iron ore
enough in this region to supply the United
States with iron for one hundred thousand
years to come, would not be extravagant.
Here, too, is water power in abundance, rapid
streams, with pebbly beds, forests of timber,
and exhaustless beds of bituminous coal.
The only difficulty of working this vast body
of minerals is the inconvenience of getting its
proceeds to the Mississippi. The streams that
rise in this region, run different courses into
the Missouri, the Mississippi, and the Arkan-
sas, but they are too rapid and winding in
their courses to afford safe and easy naviga-
tion.
Were the rafts now lodged in the St. Fran-
cois, removed by the agency of government,
as they have been in Red river, the lower sec-
tion of the mineral country could be reached
by steamboat navigation. The citizens of St.
14
318 peck's guide
Louis, very recently, have entered upon the
project of a railway from that city, through
the heart of this country, to the fine farming
lands in the south-western part of the State.
Such a project, carried into effect, would open
a boundless field of wealth in Missouri.
The western part of the State is divided into
prairie and forest land, much of which is fer-
tile. Along the Osage, it is hilly, and the
whole is undulating, and regarded as a healthy
region, abounding with good water, salt
springs, and limestone. North of the Missouri
the face of the country is diversified, with a
mixture of timber and prairie. From the Mis-
souri to Salt river, good springs are scarce,
and in several counties it is difficult to obtain
permanent water by digging wells. Artificial
wells, as they may be called, are made by dig-
ging a well forty or fifty feet deep, and replenish-
ing it with a current of rain water from the roof
of the dwelling house. Much of the prairie land
in this part of the State is inferior to the first
quality of prairie land in Illinois, as the soil
is more clayey, and does not so readily ab-
sorb the water. Between Salt river and Des
Moines, is a beautiful and rich country of land.
The counties of Ralls, Marion, Monroe, Lewis
and Shelby, are first rate. The counties of
Warren, Montgomery, Callaway, Boone, How-
ard, and Chaviton, all lying on the north side
of the Missouri river, are rolling, — in some
places are bluffs and hills, with considerable
good prairie, and an abundance of timbered
FOR EMIGRANTS. 319
land. Farther west, the proportion of prairie
increases to the boundary line, as it does to
the northward of Boone, Howard and Chaviton
counties. After making ample deductions for
inferior soil, ranges of barren hills, and large
tracts of swamp, as in the south, the State of
Missouri contains a vast proportion of excel-
lent farming land. The people generally are
enterprising, hardy and industrious, and most
of those who hold slaves, perform labor with
them. Emigrants from every State and several
countries of Europe, are found here, but the
basis of the population is from Kentucky, Ten-
nessee and Virginia. The natural productions
of Missouri are similar to those States already
described, and the agricultural productions are
the same as in Illinois, except that more tobac-
co is produced in the middle, and considerable
quantities of cotton in the southern counties.
Towns. — The city of Jefferson is the political
capital of the State. It is situated on the right
bank of the Missouri, a few miles above the
mouth of the Osage, and about 138 miles from
St. Louis. It is a small town, with little busi-
ness, except what pertains to the government of
the State. A state house, governor's house
and penitentiary have been erected.
St. Louis is the commercial capital, and the
most important place in all this portion of the
Valley of the Mississippi. It stands on the
western bank of the Mississippi, 180 miles
above the junction of the Ohio, 18 miles below
that of the Missouri, and 38 miles below that
S20
of the Illinois. It is beautifully situaiJd on
ascending and elevated ground, which spreads
out into an undulating surface to the west for
many miles. Two streets are parallel with
the river on the first bank, and the rest of the
city stands on the second bank; but very little
grading is necessary, to give the streets run-
ning back from the river, their proper inclina-
tion. The old streets, designed only for a
French village, are too narrow for public con-
venience, but a large part of the city has been
laid out on a liberal scale. The Indian and
Spanish trade, the fur and peltry business,
lead, government agencies, army supplies,
surveys of government lands, with the regular
trade of an extensive interior country, makes
St. Louis a place of great business, in propor-
tion to its population, which is about 10,000.
The following, from the register of the
wharf master, will exhibit the commerce for
1835:
STEAMBOAT REGISTER.
Number of different boats arrived, - 121
Aggregate of tonnage, - - 15,470
Number of arrivals, - - - 803
Wharfage collected, - - - ^^4,573 60
Wood and Lumber, liable to Wharfage.
Plank, joist, and scantling, 1,414,330 feet.
Shingles, 148,000
Cedar posts, - - - _ _ 7,706
Cords of fire-wood, - - - 8,066
FOR EMIGRANTS. 321
The proportionate increase of business will
be seen by reference to the following registry
for 1831:
Different steamboats arrived, - 60
Average amount of tonnage, - 7,769
Number of entries, _ _ _ 532
The morality, intelligence and enterprise of
this city is equal to any other in the West, in
proportion to its size. The American popu-
lation is most numerous, but there are many
French, Irish and Germans. About one
third of the inhabitants are Roman Catholics.
The Presbyterians, Methodists, and Episco-
palians have large congregations and houses
of worship: the Baptists and Unitarians are
rather small, and without public edifices. The
Roman Catholic cathedral is a costly pile of
buildings of freestone, and has a splendid
chime of bells, sent over from Europe. St.
Louis is a pleasant and healthy situation, and
surrounded with a fertile country.
We have not space to give particulars re-
specting many interesting and flourishing
towns in Missouri.
Cape Girardeau is a commercial depot for
the southern part of the State. St. Genevieve
stands a little back from the river, and is known
only as an old French village.
Selma is a landing and depot for the lead
mine country, 38 miles below St. Louis.
Clarksville, Hannibal, Saverton, and La
Grange are commercial sites on the Mississip-
322 peck's guide
pi, above the mouth of Missouri. Palmyra is
a beautiful toAvn, of about 1,000 inhabitants,
and the seat of justice for Marion county.
Along the Missouri are Portland, Rocheport,
Boonville, Lexington, Independence, andmany
other places of various degrees of importance.
Franklin formerly stood on the north bank of
Missouri, but most of it has been removed,
three miles interior, to the bluffs. Potosi is
a central town, in the mineral district. Fulton,
Columbia, and Fayette are the seats of justice
for Callaway, Boone, and Howard counties,
and are pleasant and flourishing towns.
About the same provision for education has
been made in this as in other Western States,
and a disposition to encourage schools, acade-
mies and colleges is fast increasing.
FOR EMIGRANTS.
323
CHAPTER XIII
ARKANSAS, AND TERRITORIAL DISTRICTS.
Arkansas, which has recently formed a con-
stitution, lies between 33° and 36° 30' N. lati-
tude, and between 13° 30' and 17° 45' W.
longitude. Length, 235; medium breadth,
222 miles; — containing about 50,000 square
miles, and 32,000,000 acres.
Civil Divisioiis. — The following are the
counties, with the population, from the census
taken in 1835:
Counties. Population.
Lawrence, 3,844
Miller, 1,373
Mississippi, 600
Counties. Population.
Arkansas, 2,080
Carroll, 1,357
Chicot, 2,471
Conway, ] ,214
Clark, 1,28.5
Crawford, 3,139
Crittenden, 1,407
Greene, 971
Hempstead, 2,955
Hot-Spring, 6,117
Independence, 2,653
Izard, 1,879
Jackson, 891
Jefferson, 1,474
Johnson, 1 ,803
La Fayette, 1 ,446
ixMonroe, 556
Phillips, 1,518
Pike, 449
Pope, 1,318
Pulaski, 3,513
ScoU, 100
Sevier, 1 ,350
St. Francis, 1 ,896
Union, 878
Van Buren, 855
Washington, 6,742
Total, 58,212
324 PECK^S GUIDE
Another table we have seen, makes out the
population, as officially reported (with the ex-
ception of two counties, from which returns
had not been made,) to be 51,809; — white
males, 22,535; white females, 19,386; — total
whites, 41,971: slaves, 9,629;— free persons
of color, 209. The population, in 1830,
30,388;— in 1833, 40,660.
The following graphical description of Ar-
kansas, from the pen of a clergyman in that
State, is corroborated by testimony in our pos-
session, from various correspondents. It was
written in 1835.
Letter from Rev. Harvey Woods, to the Editor of
the Cincinnati Journal.
" Arkansas Territory is a part of that vast
country ceded to the United States by France,
in 1803. From the time of the purchase, till
lately, the tide of emigration hardly reached
thus far. In 1800, the population was 1052.
Arkansas was erected into a Territory in 1819..
At this time it is receiving a share of those
who retire beyond the Mississippi.
Rivers. — The Territory is admirably inter-
sected with navigable rivers. The Mississippi
on the east, the Great Red river on the south.
Between these, and running generally from N.
W. to S. E. are the St. Francis, White, Ar-
kansas, and Washitau rivers; all fine streams
for steamboat navigation.
Face of the Coimtry. — It is various. No
country affords more diversified scenery. The
country in the east, for 100 miles, is flat with
FOR EMIGRANTS. 325
marshes and swamps; in the middle, broken
and hilly; and in the west, hilly and mountain-
ous. There are some prairies, some thickly
timbered land, some heavy timbered. The
country is generally a timbered country.
Some parts are sandy, some rocky, and some
flinty.
Soil. — Should a man travel here, and expect
to find all good land, he would be sadly disap-
pointed. The best lands are generally con-
tiguous to the rivers and creeks; and these
are exceedingly fertile, not surpassed by any
soil in the United States. Arkansas soil that
is rich, has just sand enough to make it lively
and elastic. Our best lands are covered with
walnut, hackberry, mulberry, oak, ash, grape
vines, &c.
Water. — The hilly and mountainous parts
are well supplied with springs, limestone, and
freestone. Also good streams for mills. In
the flat country, good water is easily obtained
by digging.
Productions. — Cotton and corn are the prin-
cipal. The Arkansas cottons commanded the
best price last season, in the Liverpool mar-
ket. It is a country of unequalled advantages
for raising horses, mules, cattle and hogs.
Climate. — It is mild, and from its difference
in latitude, say from 32° 40' to 36° 30' N., and
the difference in local situation, we would
guess, and correctly too, that there is much
difference in the health of different places;
the high and northern parts healthy, and the
flat and southern subject to agues and bilious
326 peck's guide
fevers. The climate has been considered un-
healthy to new settlers; but it is not more so
than other new countries.
Minerals. — There are quantities of iron,
lead, coal, salt, and, it is asserted by some,
silver. There are many salt and sulphur
springs. On the Arkansas river, beyond the
limits of the Territory proper, is a section of
country called the salt prairie, which, accord-
ing to good authority, is covered for many
miles, from four to six inches deep, with pure
white salt. In the Hot Spring country, are
the famous hot springs, much resorted to by
persons of chronic and paralytic diseases.
The temperature, in dry, hot weather, is at boil-
ing point.
State of Society. — The general character of
the people is brave, hardy, and enterprising —
frequently without the polish of literature, yet
kind and hospitable. The people are now rap-
idly improving in morals and intellect. They
are as ready to encourage schools, the preach-
ing of the gospel, and the benevolent enter-
prises of the age, as any people in new coun-
tries. The consequences of living here a long
time without the opportunity of educating their •
children, and destitute of the means of grace,
are, among this population, just what they al-
ways will be under similar circumstances.
Ministers of all denominations are "few and
far between." We have no need here to build
on other's foundation.
I am living in Jackson county, on White
FOR EMIGRANTS. 327
river. This county has a larger quantity of
good land than any one in the Territory.
White river is always navigable for steam-
boats to this place, 350 miles from its mouth.
Well-water is good, — some fine springs.
Washington county, and some others, that
have the reputation of better health, are more
populous.
We want settlers; and we have no doubt
that vast numbers of families in the States, par-
ticularly the poor, and those in moderate cir-
cumstances, would better their situation by
coming here, where they can get plenty offer-
tile and fresh land at government price, $^1,25
per acre. They can have good range, and all
the advantages of new countries. Emigrants,
however, ought not to suffer themselves to ex-
pect all sunshine, and no winter. We have
cloudy days and cold weather, even in Arkan-
sas! If they have heard of the honey pond,
where flitters grow on trees, they need not be
surprised if they don't find it. Cabins cannot
be built, wells dug, farms opened, rails made,
and meeting-houses and school-houses erected,
without work.
It may be asked, " If Arkansas be so fine a
country, why has it not been settled faster?"
There are perhaps three reasons; — a fear of
the Indians, a fear of sickness, a fear of bad
roads. The Indians are now all peaceably
situated beyond the Territory proper, and are
blessed with the labors of a number of good
pious missionaries, who are teaching them to
328 peck's guide
read the Bible, and showing the tall sons of
the forest the way that leads to heaven. Sick-
ness is no more to be dreaded here than in Illi-
nois and Missouri. The roads have indeedbeen
bad. — For a long time, no one could venture
through the Mississippi swamps, unless he was
a Daniel Boone. But appropriations have been
made by Congress for several roads. This
summer, roads from Memphis to Little Rock,
and to Litchfield and Batesville, and other
points, will be completed. An appropriation
of upwards of ^100,000 has been made to con-
struct a road through the Mississippi swamp.
Again: we want settlers — we want physi-
cians, lawyers, ministers, mechanics and farm-
ers. We want such, however, and only such
as will make good neighbors. If any who
think of coming to live with us, are gamblers,
drunkards. Sabbath-breakers, profane swear-
ers, or the like, we hope that when they leave
their old country, they will leave their old
habits."
We have not seen the Constitution of this
State, now pending before Congress for ad-
mission into the Union, but understand that its
essential principles are the same as that of
the other Western States.
W^iscoNsiN Territory.
Under this name is now comprehended an
extensive district of country, lying on both sides
of the Mississippi river, above Illinois and Mis-
souri, and extending indefinitely north. That
rOR EMIGRANTS. 3^9
portion lying betwixt the northern boundary of
Illinois and the Wisconsin river, and from lake
Michigan to the Mississippi, has the Indian
title extinguished, and, in part, has been sur-
veyed and brought into market. There is much
excellent land in this part of the Territory, and
it is well watered with perennial streams and
springs. Offices are opened for the sale of
public lands, at Mineral Point and Green Bay,
and a large amount has been sold, and some
at a high price. The country immediately
bordering on lake Michigan, is well timbered,
with various trees. Here are red, white,
black and burr oaks, beech, ash, linden, pop-
lar, walnut, hickory, sugar and v/hite maple,
elm, birch, hemlock, and pine, with many
other kinds. The soil is not so deep and dark
a mould as in the prairies of Illinois, but is
fertile and easily cultivated; and sandy, es-
pecially about the town of Green Bay. To-
wards the lake, and near the body of water
called Sturgeon Bay, connected with Green
Bay, and between that and the lake, are ex-
tensive swamps and cranberry marshes. Wild
rice, tamarisk, and spruce, grow here. About
Rock river and from thence to the Mississippi,
there is much excellent land, but a deficiency
of timber. Lead and copper ore, and probably
other minerals, abound in this part of the coun-
try. Along to the east and north of the Four
lakes, are alternate quagmires and sand ridges,
for 50 miles or more, called by the French
courcurs dubois, " Terre Tremblant,^^ (trem-
mo
bling land,) the character of which is sufficient-
ly indicated by the name.
There are several small lakes in the district
of country we are now examining, the largest
of which is Winnebago. It is situated 30 or 40
miles south of Green Bay, — is about ten miles
long, and three broad, and is full of wild rice.
Fox river passes through it. Kushkanong is
six or eight miles in diameter, with some
swamps and quagmires in its vicinity. It is on
Rock river, between Catfish and Whitewater.
The Four lakes are strung along on a stream
called Catfish, which enters Rock river 25 or
30 miles above the boundary of Illinois. They
are 6 or 8 miles long, abounding with fish, and
are surrounded with an excellent farming
country.
Green Bay settlement and village is 230
miles north of Chicago, 220 north-east from
Galena, 120 from Fort Winnebago, and in N.
latitude 44° 44'. JVavarino is a town recently
commenced in this vicinity, with an excellent
harbor, grows rapidly, and bids fair to become
a place of importance. Property has risen the
last year most astonishingly.
Fort Winnebago is a military post, at the
bend, and on the right bank of Fox river, op-
posite the portage. From thence to the Wis-
consin, is a low wet prairie, of three fourths of
a mile, through which, a company has been
chartered to cut a canal. On this route, the
first explorers reached the Mississippi in 1673.
The Wisconsin river, however, without con-
lOR EMIGRANTS. ^^1
siderable improvement, is not navigable for
steamboats, at ordinary stages of the water,
without much trouble. It is full of bars,
islands, rocks, and has a devious channel.
The streams that rise in the eastern part of
this Territory, and flow into lake Michigan,
north of the boundary of Illinois, tire in order
as follows: Pipe creek, a small stream, but a
few miles from the boundary, — Root river
next, — then Milwaukee, 90milesfrom Chicago.
It rises in the swampy country, south of
Winnebago lake, runs a south-easterly course,
and, after receiving the Menomone, forms
Milwaukee bay. Here is a town site, on
both sides of the river, with a population of
six or eight hundred, which promises to be-
come a place of business. The soil up the
Milwaukee is good, from 6 to 12 inches in
depth, a black loam and sand.
Passing northward down the lake is Oak
creek, 9 miles below Milwaukee, — thence 21
miles is Sauk creek, a small stream. Seventy
miles from Milwaukee is Shab-wi-wi-a-gun.
Here is found white pine, maple, beech, birch
and spruce, but very little oak: the surface
level and sandy. Pigeon river is 15 or 20
miles further on, with excellent land on its
borders; — timber, — maple, ash, beech, linden,
elm, &.C. Fifteen miles further down, is
Manatawok. Here commences the hem-
lock, with considerable pine. This stream is
about 40 or 50 miles from Green Bay settle-
ment. Twin rivers are below Manatawok,
332
PECK S GUIDE
with sandy soil, and good timber of pine and
other varieties. From Milwaukee to Green
Bay, by a surveyed route, is 112 miles; — by
the Indian trail, commonly travelled, 135 miles.
North of the Wisconsin river, is Crawford
county, of which Prairie du Chien is the seat
of justice. From the great bend at Fort
Winnebago across towards the Mississippi is
a series of abrupt hills, rising several hundred
feet, and covered with a dense forest of elm,
linden, oak, walnut, ash, sugar maple, &c.
The soil is rich, but is too hilly and broken
for agricultural purposes. There is no ai*
luvial soil, or bottoms along the streams, or
grass in the forests.
The Wisconsin river rises in an unex-
plored country towards lake Superior. The
coureurs du hois, and voyageurs represent it
as a cold, mountainous, dreary region, with
swamps.
West of the Mississippi, above Des Moines,
and extending northward to a point some
distance above the northern boundary of
Illinois, and for 50 miles interior, is a valuable
country, purchased of the Indians in 1 832.
Its streams rise in the great prairies, run an
east or south-eastern course into the Mis-
sissippi. The most noted are Flint, Skunk,
Wau-be-se-pin-e-con, Upper and Lower Iowa
rivers, and Turkey, Catfish, and Big and
Little Ma-quo-ka-tois, or Bear creeks. The
soil, in general, is excellent, and very much
resembles the military tract in Illinois. The
FOR EMIGRANTS. 333
water is excellent, — plenty of lime, sand and
freestone, — extensive prairies, and a deficiency
of timber a few miles interior. About Du-
buque, opposite Galena, aie extensive and rich
lead mines. Burlington is a town containing
a population of 700, at the Flint hills opposite
Warren county, Illinois. Dubuque is situated
on the Mississippi, on a sandy bottom, above
high water, and 14 miles N. W. from Galena.
It'has about 60 stores and groceries, 2 taverns,
2 churches, and about 1000 inhabitants, and
we have before us the prospectus for the
"Dubuque Visiter," a weekly newspaper.
Peru is in the vicinity, and contains about
500 inhabitants. The New Purchase, as this
district of country is called, is divided into
two counties, Dubuque, and Des Moines, and
contains a population of 8 or 10,000. The
whole Wisconsin Territory is estimated by
its legislature, now in session, to contain
30,000 inhabitants.
Hitherto, for civil purposes, this region has
formed a part of Michigan Territory, and still
its legislature acts under that name; but a bill
is before Congress to organize a territorial
government under the name of Wisconsin,
which doubtless will be effected in a few
weeks. Not many years will elapse before
two new States will be formed out of this dis-
trict of country, the one on the eastern, and
the other on the western, side of the Mis-
sissippi.
14*
334 peck's guide
CHAPTER XIV.
LITERARY AND RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS FOR THE
WEST.
Colleges; — Statistical Sketches of each Denomination; —
Roman Catholics; — Field for etFort, and pi-ogress made.
In giving a sketch of literary and religious
institutions in the West, the very limited
space remaining to be occupied in this work,
compels me to throw together a few general
facts only. The author has made some pro-
gress in collecting materials, and he designs
to prepare another work soon, in which a
variety of particulars and sketches will be
given of the early history, progress of literary
and religious institutions, colleges, seminaries,
churches, Bible, Sunday school, education and
other kindred societies in the Western Valley,
with the present aspect of each denomination
of Christians. The interest taken in the
affairs of the West, and the anxiety evinced
by the community for facts and particulars on
those subjects, demand that they should be
treated more in detail than the limits of this
Guide will allow.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 335
I. Colleges.
Western Pennsylvania — Has Jefferson
College, at Canonsburgh, which the Presbyte-
rians originated in 1802, from the first grammar
school ever established by Protestants west of
the Alleghany mountains. Graduates, in 1835,
46; new students admitted, 75; present No.
230, (including the preparatory department,)
of which 135 profess religion. Course of
mathematics and physical sciences greatly
extended, with practical application to civil
engineering. Instruction provided in Hebrew,
French, Spanish, German, Portuguese, and
Italian: — provision for manual labor. — Ex-
penses moderate.
Washington College, at Washington, Pa.,
also connected with the Presbyterian denomina-
tion, founded in 1806; — had 140 students in
1832. Jilleghany College at Meadville, was
founded in 1815, by Rev. T. Alden, has a
valuable library of 8000 vohimes, principally
the donation of the late Rev. Dr. Bentley, of
Salem, Mass., a distinguished benefactor ol
this institution. The college did not flourish
for some years, and it is now transferred
to the Methodist Episcopal church, and is
under charge of the Pittsburg Conference.
It now promises to be successi'ul.
The JVestern Universiiy of Pennsylvania was
founded in 1820. The number of graduates,
in 1832, was 50; of under graduates in all
departments, 70. A beautiful college cdilice
has been erected in the western part of
Pittsburg, for this institution.
336 peck's guide
There is no collegiate institution in Western
Virginia.
Ohio. — Ohio U}iiversiiy, at Athens, was
founded in 1802; — has an endowment of
46,030 acres of land, which yields §2,300
annually. A large and elegant edifice of
brick was erected in 1817. The number of
students about 90. Miami University, was
founded in 1824, and is a flourishing institu-
tion at Oxford, Butler county, 37 miles from
Cincinnati. It possesses the township of land
in which it is situated, and from which it re-
ceives an income of about §5000. Number of
students about 200. Patronized by Presby-
terians. The Cincinnati College was incor-
porated in 1819, continued to be sustained as
a classical institution for some years, and
then suspended operations. It has been I'e-
vived and re-organized lately, and will proba-
bly be sustained. Kenijyn College, at Gambier,
Knox county, in a central part of the State,
was established in 1823, through the efforts
of Rev. Philander Chase, then bishop of the
Ohio Diocess, who obtained about §30,000 in
England to endow it. Its chief patrons were
those excellent British noblemen. Lords Ken-
yon and Gambier. It is under Episcopal
jurisdiction, and has a theological department,
for the education of candidjites for the ministry
in the Episcopal church. It has about 150
students. Western Reserve College is at Hud-
son. It was founded by Pres])yterians and
Congregationalists in 1828, and has 82 students
in all its departments. Fraukiin College is in
FOR EMIGRANTS. 337
New Athens, Harrison county, on the eastern
side of the State, and has about 50 students.
The Granville Literarij and Theological Institu-
(ion originated under patronage of the Baptist
denomination in 1831. It is designed to em-
brace four departments, — preparatory, En-
glish, collegiate, and theological. It is rapidly
rising, and contains more than 100 students.
Obevlin Institute has been recently established
in Lorrain county, under the influence of
•'new measure" Presbyterians, with four de-
partments, and has 276 students, as follows:
In the theological department, 35; collegiate,
37; preparatory, 31; female, 73. The citi-
zens of Cleveland have recently contributed
to it ^15,000, of which six persons gave
5^1000 each. The WiUihough Collegiate In-
stitute is in the lake country of Ohio, and has
been gotten up within a few years past. The
Marietta Collegiate Institute is said to be a
flourishing and respectable institution, having
a large number of students in various de-
partments.
Indiana. — Indiana college is a State institu-
tion, established at Bloomington, and com-
menced operations in 1828. Present number
of students not known. In 1832 the number
exceeded 50.
Hanover College is at South Hanover, six
miles below the town of Madison, and near
the Ohio river. It is a flourishing institution,
witli arrangements for manual labor, and is
styled "South Hanover College and Indiana
Theological Seminary." The number of stu-
338 peck's guide
dents exceed 100. Wabash College, at Craw-
fordsville, has just commenced operations un-
der auspicious circumstances. Under patron-
age of the Presbyterians.
Illinois. — Illinois College, near Jackson-
ville, commenced as a preparatory school in
1830, and has made rapid progress. Large
funds for its endowment have been recently
provided in the Eastern States. The number
of students about 80.
Shurtleff College of Alton, Illinois, was com-
menced under the efforts of Baptists at Alton
in 1832, as a preparatory institution; — charter-
ed as a college in February, 1835, and has
been recently named in honor of a liberal
patron, Dr. Benjamin Shurtleff, of Boston.
Mass., who has presented the institution witli
$10,000. It has 60 students, and its prospects
are encouraging. McKendreean College has
been chartered, a building erected, and a
school commenced at Lebanon. It is con-
nected with the Methodist Episcopal Church.
Charters have been recently granted for other
colleges in this State, and measures adopted
to bring some of them into existence. The
Rev. Philander Chase, whose persevering
labors brought into existence and successful
operation, Kenyon college in Ohio, and who
is now bishop of Illinois, is at present in
England, where, by recent advices, he has ob-
tained $50,000 to invest in Illinois lands, and
to establish a college for the interests of the
Episcopal church.
Missouri. — The Roman Catholics have two
FOR EMIGRANTS. 339
institutions of a collegiate character, establish-
ed in this State. St. Martfs College, in Perry
county, was established by Bishop Du Bourg,
in 1822. It has 6,000 volumes in the library.
Including the nunnery, and school for females,
a seminary for the education of jjriests, a pre-
paratory, and a primary school, the number of
teachers and students are about 300.
St. Louis University was founded in 1829, and
is conducted by the Fathers of the society of
Jesuits, The edifice is 130 feet, by 40, of 4
stories, including the basement, and is situated
on elevated and pleasant ground, on the con-
fines of the city.
For the Protestants, the following institu-
tions have been established. Columbia Col-
lege, adjacent to Columbia, Boon county.
The institution opened in 1835, under encour-
aging circumstanses. Marion College is in a
delightful tract of country, a prairie region, in
the western part of Michigan county, — and has
between 80 and 100 students. It is connected
with the Presbyterian interests. The project
as developed by some of its founders, is an
immense one, including English, scientific,
classical, theological, medical, agricultural,
and law departments, — all to be sustained by
manual labor, and the proceeds of extensive
farms. Doubtless, by prudent and persever-
ing efforts, a respectable college may be
brought into successful operation. A college
at St. Charles, has been founded, principally
by the liberality of George Collier, a merchant
540 PECK^S GUIDE
of St. Louis, and two or three other gentlemen,
and a classical and scientific school has been
commenced.
ArkAxVsas. — Efforts are making to establish
a college by Presbyterian agency, at Cane
Hill, in this newly formed State. Two or
three collegiate institutions will soon be need-
ed in this region,
Kentucky. — Transylvania University, at
Lexington, is the oldest collegiate institution
in the West. It was commenced, by a grant
of 8,000 acres of land by the legislature of
Virginia, in 1783, and was then called "Tran-
sylvania Seminary." The "Kentucky Acad-
emy " was founded in 1794, and both institu-
tions were united and incorporated in 1798,
under the present name. It has classical,
medical, law, and preparatory departments, —
and including each, from 300 to 400 students.
Center College, at Danville, was founded by
the Presbyterian church, in 1818, for which
the synod of Kentucky pledged $20,000.
Number of students about 100. Augusta Col-
lege was founded in 1822, by the Ohio and
Kentucky conferences of the Methodist Epis-
copal church. It adopted collegiate regula-
tions in 1828. Number of students in the col-
legiate, academical and primary departments,
about 200.
Cumberland College was incorporated in
1824, and is established at Princeton, in the
western part of the State. It is under the pa-
tronage and jurisdiction of the Cumberland
FOR ExMIGRANTS. 341
Presbyterians. A farm, including a tract of
5,000 acres of land, with -workshops, furnish
facilities for manual labor. It has about 80
students.
St. Joseph's College is a Roman Catholic
institution, at Bardstown, with college build-
ings sufficient to accommodate 200 students,
and valued at $^60,000. It commenced with
4 students in 1820. In 1833 there were in the
collegiate and preparatory departments, 120
students. The St. Thomas and St. Mary
Seminaries are also under the charge of
Roman Catholic priests, the one in Nelson
county, four miles from Bardstown, and the
other in Washington county.
A college was founded by the Baptists at;
Georgetown in 1830, but from untoward cir-
cumstances, is probably relinquished by the
denomination.
Tennessee. — The Universiiij of JVashville is
a prominent institution. The laboratory is
one of the finest in the United States, and the
mineralogical cabinet, not exceeded, and this
department, as well as every other in the col-
lege, is superintended with much talent. The
number of students is about 100. Greenville,
Knoxville and Washington colleges are in East
Tennessee. " Jackson College is about to be
removed from its present site, and located at
Columbia. ^25,000 have been subscribed for
the purpose. A Presbyterian Theological
Seminary is at Maryville.
Mississippi. — Jefferson College is at Wash-
15
342 peck's guide
ington, six miles from Natchez. It has not
flourished as a college, and is now said to be
conducted somewhat on the principle of a
military academy. Oakland College has been
recently founded by Presbyterians, and bids
fair to exert a beneficial influence upon re-
ligion and morals, much needed in that State.
The Baptist denomination are taking measures
to establish a collegiate institution in that
State.
LouisiAxXA — Has a college at Jackson, in
the eastern part of the State, The Roman
Catholics have a college at New Orleans.
There is a respectable collegiate institution,
under the fostering care of the Methodist
Episcopal Church, at Lagrange, in the north-
western part of Alabama.
Academies have been established in various
parts of the West, for both sexes, and there
are female seminaries of character and stand-
ing at Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Granville, Louis-
ville, Lexington, Nashville, and many other
places. Several more colleges, and a large
number of minor institutions, will be need-
ed very shortly to supply the demands for
education in the West. The public mind is
awake to the subject of education, and much
has already been done, though a greater work
has yet to be accomplished to supply the wants
of the West in literary institutions.
An annual convention is held in Cincinnati,
on the first Monday in October, denominated
the " Western Institute and College of Pro-
POR EMICRANTS. 343
fessional Teachers."" Its object, according to
the constitution, is, "to promote by every
laudable means, the diffusion of knowledge in
regard to education, and especially by aiming
at the elevation of the character of teachers,
who shall have adopted instruction as their
regular profession." The first meeting was
held in 1831, under the auspices of the
"Academic Institute," a previously existing
institution, but of more limited operations.
The second convention, in 1832, framed a con-
stitution and chose officers, since which time
regular meetings have been held by delegates
or individuals from various parts of the West,
and a volume of Transactions of 300 or 400
pages published annually.
II. Theological Institutions.
The Western Theolooical Semi7ta7^y at Alio-*
ghany town, opposite Pittsburg, is under the
jurisdiction of the General Assembly of the
Presbyterian Church. It commenced opera-
tions in 1829. At Canonsbur^ is a seminary
belonging to the Associate church, of which
Dr. Ramsey is Professor. The Associate Re-
formed church have a theological school in
Pittsburg, under charge of the Rev. John T.
Pressly D. D. The Baptist denomination are
now engaged in establishing a manual labor
academy in the vicinity of Pittsburg, for both
ministerial and general education.
The theological departments of Oberlin,
Granville, and other collegiate institutions,
S44
have been noticed already. Lane Seminary^
near Cincinnati, was founded in 1830, by
Messrs. E. & W. A. Lane, merchants, of New
Orleans, who made a very liberal offer of aid.
Its location is excellent, two and a half miles
from Cincinnati, at Walnut Hills, and is under
the charge of the Rev. Dr. Beecher, and a body
of professors. Number of students about 40.
The Hanover Jnstitutioii in Indiana, has been
noticed already. In the theological depart-
ment are three professors and 12 students.
The Baptists in this State are about establish-
ing a manual labor seminary for ministerial
and general education.
A valuable property has been purchased,
adjoining Covington, Ky., opposite Cincinnati,
and measures have been put in train to found
a theological seminary by the Baptist denom-
ination. The executive committee of the
" Western Baptist Education Socieiij,^' have
this object in charge. The ''Alton Theological
Seminary,'" located at Upper Alton, Illinois,
is under an organization distinct from that of
Shurlleff College, already noticed. This in-
stitution has 50 acres of valuable land, and a
stone edifice of respectable size, occupied at
present in joint concern with the college,
and a valuable library of several hundred
volumes. Its organization has been but re-
cently effected. Rev. L. Colby, is professor,
with 8 students. Other institutions, having
theological education, either in whole or in
part, their object, are in contemplation.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 345
Two remarks, by way of explanation are
here necessary. 1. Most of the colleges and
theological schools of the Western Valley
have facilities for manual labor, or are making
that provision. In several, some of the stu-
dents pay half, and even the whole of their
expenses, by their own efforts. Public senti-
ment is awake to this subject, and is gaining
ground. 2. In enumerating the students, the
members of the preparatory departments are
included, many of whom do not expect to pass
through a regular collegiate course. The
circumstances and wants of the country, from
its rapid growth, seem to require the appen-
dage of a large preparatory department to
every college.
It may be well to observe here, that a great
and increasing demand exists in all the West-
ern States, and especially those bordering on
the Mississippi, for teachers of primary schools.
Hundreds and thousands of moral, intelligent,
and pious persons, male and female, would
meet with encouragement and success in this
department of labor. It is altogether unneces-
sary for such persons to write to their friends,
to make inquiries whether there are openings,
&c. If they come from the older States with
the proper recommendations as to character
and qualifications, they will not fail to meet
with employment in almost any quarter to
which they may direct their course. There
is not a county in Missouri, Arkansas, Illinois,
or Indiana, where persons would not meet with
346 peck's guide
constant employment in teaching, and es-
pecially where teachers in Sabbath schools
are needed. Persons desirous of such a
field, of humble, yet useful labor, should
come here with the fixed purpose to mix with,
and conform to the usages of the Western
population, to avoid fastidiousness, and to
submit to the plain, frank, social, and hos-
pitable manners of the people.
III. Deaf and Dumb Asylums.
There are two institutions of this descrip-
tion in the West, — one at Columbus, Ohio;
the other at Danville, Ky. The one in Ohio
contains about 50 pupils.
IV. Medical Institutions.
The medical department in Transylvania
University, Kentucky, has six professors, and
usually about 200 students to attend the
lectures. Fees for an entire course, with
matriculation and library, ^^110. Two medical
institutions of respectable standing exist in
Cincinnati, — one connected with the Miami
university, the other with Cincinnati college.
The Ohio Reformed Medical School, was es-
tablished at Worthington, 9 miles north of
Columbus, in 1830. No specified time is re-
quired for study, but when a student will pass
examination, he is licensed to practice.
V. Law Schools.
The law department of Transylvania Uni-
FOR EMIGRANTS. 347
versity, is under the charge of two able pro-
fessors, who hear recitations and deliver
lectures. The average number of students is
about 40.
A law school was established at Cincinnati,
in 1833, with four professors, — Messrs. John
C. Wright, John M. Goodenow, Edward King,
and Timothy Walker. The bar, the institu-
tion, and the city have recently sustained a
severe loss in the decease of Mr. King.
VI. Benevolent and Religious Societies.
To enumerate and give particulars of all
these, would make a volume. We can but
barely call the attention of the reader to some
of the more prominent organizations, amongst
the diiFerent Christian denominations in this
great Valley, for doing good.
The Foreign Misaionanj Sociehj of the Valley
of the Mississfijjpi, is a prominent auxiliary of
the American JBoard of Commissioners for
Foreign Missions. Its seat is Cincinn«iti, but
by agencies and branches, it operates through-
out the Valley. The Report of November,
1835, states that cighie'^n thousand six hmdrcd
and fifty eight dollars had been received into
the treasury the preceding year. An edition
of 3000 copies of the Missionary Herald is re-
published in Cincinnati, lor circulation in the
West.
The Western Education Society, connected
with the American Education Society, has al
its seat of operations at Cincinnati. Auxil
so
348 PECK S GUIDE
iaries also exist in most of the Western States.
71 beneficiaries were under its charge at the
last anniversary.
The ^^nierican Tract Society has auxiliaries
and agencies in most of the Western States.
The operations of the American Bible Society,
through its numerous auxiliaries, is felt to the
remotest parts of the West.
The American Sunday ScJwol Union has re-
cently established a central agency in Cincin-
nati, and is preparing to renew, and greatly
enlarge its very important ejfforts for the
benefit of the rising generation in the West.
A series of very interesting anniversaries
are held in Cincinnati, the first week in
November, when all the great objects of
Christian effort receive a renewed impulse.
The American Hrme Missionary Society has
more than 200 missionaries, laboring in the
States, west of the mountains. In 1835, they
assisted 217 Presbvterian ministers in this
field.
The Temperance Effort has not been neg-
lected, and an interesting change is going
forward, in a quiet and noiseless way, in the
habits of the people, in reference to the use
of intoxicating liquors. It is to be hoped that
more prompt and vigorous efforts will be made
to promote this cause, but even new, there are
many thousands, who abstain from the use of
spiritous liquors, without any formal pledge.
The Methodist Episcopal Cliuri^h, in addi-
tion to their regular system of circuits, are
FOR EMIGRANTS. 349
extending the influence of their denomination
on the tVontiers, by missionary operations, and
their labors are prospered.
The Baplisf dcnominalion have made some
important movements in the Western Valley
within the last three years. Their Home
Mission Society has nearly 100 missionaries
in the West. In Novem.ber, 1833, the " Gen-
eral Convention of Western Baptists/^ was organ-
ized by more than 100 ministers and brethren,
assembled from various parts of the West.
It is not an ecclesiastical body, claiming
jurisdiction either over churches or ministers,
nor is it strictly a missionary body. Its
business, according to the constitution, is "to
promote by all lawful means, the following
objects, to wit: — Missions both foreign and
domestic; — ministerial education, for such
as may have first been licensed by the church-
es; Sunday schools, including Bible classes;
religious periodicals; tract and temperance
societies, as well as all others warranted by
Christ in the gospel."
At its second session, in 1834, the " fVest-
ern Baptist Education Society^^ was formed.
Its object is "tKe education of those who
give evidence to the churches of which they
are members, that God designs them for the
ministry." The executive committee are
charged temporarily, with establishing the
Central Theological Seminary, already men-
tioned, at Covington, Ky.
Many other interesting associations for
350 peck's guide
humane, philanthropic, and religious purposes
exist in the Valley, which are necessarily
omitted.
VII. The Periodical Press.
The number of different periodicals pub-
lished in the Valley of the Mississippi, must
exceed 400, of which 12 or 15 are daily
papers. There are 25 weekly periodicals in
Mississippi, 116 in Ohio, 38 in Indiana, 19 in
Illinois, 17 in Missouri, 3 and probably
more, in Arkansas, 2 at least in Wisconsin
Territory. The Wester-n Monthly Magazine,
edited by James Hall, Esq , and published at
Cincinnati is well known. The Weste7ii
Journal of the Medical and Phijsical Sciences^
edited by Daniel Drake, M. D., Professor of
Theory and Practice of Medicine in the
Cincinnati College, is published quarterly,
in Cincinnati. There are a number of re-
ligious weekly, semi-monthly, and monthly
periodicals, devoted to the interests of the
principal denominations through the Valley.
There are known to be at least one in West-
ern Virginia, 2 in Western Pennsylvania, 7 in
Ohio, 4 in Kentucky, 4 in Tennessee, 2 in
Illinois, 2 in Missouri, and one in New
Orleans. Supposing the average number of
copies of Western periodicals equalled 750,
this, estimating the different periodicals at
400, would give 300,000. We see no marked
and essential difference in the talent, with
which the editorial press is conducted, betwixt
FOR EMIGRANTS. 351
the Eastern and Western States. The limits
of this work will not allow me to add further
evidence that our Western population is not
all " illiterate," and that "not more than one
person in ten can read," than the following
epitome of the issues, of one of the publishing
houses in Cincinnati, as exhibited in the Cin-
cinnati Journal:
" Western Enterprise. — The enterprise of
the West is not generally appreciated. As a
specimen, we have procured from Messrs.
Corey & Webster the following list of books
published by them within the last three years.
These books, with the exception of the Life
of Black-Hawk, are of sterling value.
The Western Primer, 60,000; Webster's
Spelling Book, 600,000; the Primary Reader,
7,500; the Elementary Reader, 37,000; West-
ern Reader, 16,000; Webster's History of the
United States, 4000; Miss Beecher's Geogra-
phy, 15,000; Pocket Testament, 6,500;
Watts' and Select Hymns, 8000; Dr. Beech-
er's Lectures on Scepticism, three editions,
1000 each; Prof Stowe's Introduction to the
Study of the Bible, 1500 ; the Christian Lyre,
2000; Mitchell's Chemistry, 1000; Eberle
on the Diseases of Children, 2000; Ditto
Notes of Practice, 1500; Young Lady's
Assistant in Drawing, 1000; Munsell's Map,
3,500; Chase's Statutes of Ohio, three
volumes, 1000; Hammond's Reports, 6th vol.
500; total, seven hundred and seventy ci2;hl thou-
sand two hundred and fJtyH! Probably some
352
PECK S GUIDE
of the many other publishers in the city have
got out nearly or quite as many books. Truly,
we are a book-making and book-reading
nation."
VIII. Religious Denominations.
In exhibiting the following statistics, entire
correctness is not attempted. In some of the
States, the latest reports have been had, — in
others, the author has taken data of two or
three years date. Of the numbers of some of
the numerous sects existing, the opinions of
individuals have been the chief data he could
obtain.
1. Baptists.
Western Penn-
sylvania,
Western Virgini
Ohio,
Michigan,
Indiana,
Illinois,
i
2
"2
=
c
E =^
JZ
O
s
O
50
30
2,569
89
481 3,30011
33-2
175
13,926
GO 30
1,700
3-20 175
15,000
240
1U3
6,741
[Missouri,
Arkansas,
Louisiana,
Mississippi,
North Alabama,
Tennrssee,
Kentucky,
348 292
5581296
11
6,990
700
1,000
4,000
5,700
22,868
38,817
Total, 2447 churches, 1353 ministers, and
123,317 communicants.
Periodicals. — The Cr-oss and Journal, weekly,
and Baptist Advocate, monthly, at Cincinnati;
— the Baptist Banner, weekly, at Shelbyville,
Ky. ; — the Baptist, a large monthly quarto, at
Nashville, Ten.; — the Pioneer, semi-monthly,
at Rock Spring, but shortly to be enlarged, re-
FOR EMIGRANTS.
353
moved to Upper Alton, and published weekly;
— and the tVitncss, a small quarto, published
weekly at Pittsburg.
2. Methodists, (^Episcopal.) This denomina-
tion is divided into Conferences, which are
not arranged exactly with the boundaries of
the States. A large book and printing-office
is established at Cincinnati, where all the
society's publications are kept for sale.
Another depository is kept at Nashville.
CoMFERENCES.
Mississippi)
Alabama, (one District, in tl
Valley,)
Pittsburg,
Ohio,
Missouri, (including Arkansas,)
Kentucky,
Illinois,
Indiana,
Holston,
Tennessee,
Total,
J.
2
1
<^ r-
s
..■^
a
— •
TS
Z:
^
O
c
727
55
6,:j58
2,G22
Uj
3,051
49
15(J
4'), 155
29ii
'J()4
f)2,68(i
544
217
57
7,948
1,0(51
889
iUO
25,777
5,59-2
GI
15,0n8
59
70
21,984
229
(iy
91,559
2,478
1L>!I
29,794
5,043
508
901
>37,:?50
I8,4in
2,341
s s
9,707
3,543
40,451
63,447
9,898
31,3fi9
15,097
25,213
24,031
35,343
258,101
Allowing two local to one circuit preacher,
which is rather under than over the propor-
tion, would make 1802, which, added to the
number of those whose names are on the
Minutes of the Conferences, would make 2703
Methodist Episcopal ministers of the gospel in
the Valley of the Mississippi. The Pitts-
burg Conference Journal, Western Christian
S54
peck's guide
Advocate, and Western Methodist, are their
periodicals.
3. Methodist Protestants.— -There are two
conferences of this denomination in the West,
— the Pittsburg, and Ohio conferences, and
their circuits, preaching stations and members
extend through the States north of the Ohio
river, with a few stations and churches south.
Pittsburg Conference has 28 circuits, and 85
local preachers and licentiates, 25 circuits, 4
stations, and 2 mission circuits, with 6,902
members in society.
Ohio Conference, has 28 circuit, 90 local
preachers, 22 circuits, 3 stations, 3 missionary
circuits, and 3667 members. The Methodist
Correspondent, a neat semi-monthly quarto
periodical, published at Zanesville, Ohio, is
devoted to their interests.
4. Presbyterians. — The following table (with
the exception of Illinois) is constructed from
the returns to the General Assembly in 1834,
— the Minutes of 1835, we understand, have
not been printed.
States and parts.
3
'c
11
1 States.
J
3
o.S?
J=
o 2
5
S
O s
o
1
20"
9
Oc
Vl^.P(!nnsylvai)ia )
and VV, Va. \
212
13.-
•22,(387
Missouri,
Arkansas,
J, 543
390
Michigan,
32
20
1,397
Kentucky,
120
83
8,378
Ohio,
400
255
27,8->l
Tennessee,
121
90
9,926
Indiana,
99
55
4,339
North Alabama,
15
12
70.5
Illinois,
71
50
2,000
Mississippi,
33
24
761
Total 56, Presbyteries, 1,148 churches,
753 ministers, and 79,973 communicants.
FOR EMIGRANTS. 355
Periodicals. — The Cincinnati Journal and West"
cm Liiminanj, published at Cincinnati; — Cliris-
ficm Herald, at Pittsburg; — Ohio Observer ^ at
Hudson, Ohio; — Western Presbyterian Herald,
at Louisville, Ky. ^—JVeiv Orleans Observer, at
New Orleans; — and St. Louis Observer, at St.
Louis, Mo., — all weekly; — and the Missionary
Herald, republished at Cincinnati, monthly.
5. Cumberland Presbyteriajis. — This sect ori-
ginated from the Presbyterian church in 1804,
in Kentucky, but did not increase much till
1810, or 12. They are spres-d through most
of the Western States, and have 34 Presbyte-
ries, 7 vSynods, and one General Assembly.
The Minutes of their General Assembly, now
before me, are not sufficiently definite to give
the number of congregations. The»e probably
exceed 300. An intelligent member of that
denomination states the number of ordained
preachers to be 300, licentiates, 100, candi-
dates for the ministry, 150, and communicants,
50,000.
Periodicals. — The Ciimberl and Presbyterian is
a weekly paper, published at Nashville, Tenn.
Another has been recently started at Pitts-
burg.
6. Congregalionalists. — In Ohio, especially
in the northern part, are a number of Congre-
gational churches and some ministers, as there
are in Indiana, Michigan, and Illinois. There
are 2 or 3 ministers, 12 or 15 congregations,
and about 500 communicants in Illinois, who
are organized into an association in Illinois,
S56 peck's guide
7. Protestant Episcopal Church .—This de-
nomination has 7 Diocesses in the Western
or south-western States, exchisive of Western
Pennsylvania, and Western Virginia, which
belong to the Diocesses of those States. They
are, Ohio, — Michigan, — Illinois,-— Kentucky,
— Tennessee, — Mississippi, and Indiana, and
Missouri. There are about 75 or 80 ministers,
and twice as many churches in the West.
Provision has been made in part, for the en-
dowment of the theological seminary at Gam-
bier, O., in England, aud Bishop Mcllvaine
has obtained about ^1:2,600, to be appropriated
in the erection of a gothic edifice to be called
"Bexley Hall." vvith three stories, and ac-
commodations for fifty students. A weekly
periodical is issued at the same place to sup-
port the interests of the denomination.
8. German Lutherans. — We have no data
to give the statistics of this denomination.
There is a Synod in Ohio, another in Western
Pennsylvania, and perhaps others. There
are probably 50 or 60 ministers in the West,
and 150 congregations.
9. German Reformed Church. — There are
80 congregations in Ohio, 20 in Indiana, and
probably 50 others in the West, with 40 or 50
ministers.
10. The Tunkers, or Dunkards, have 40 or
50 churches, and about half as many ministers
in the W^estern States.
11. The Shakers have villages in several
places in Ohio, and Kentucky, but are losing
ground.
rOR EMIGRANTS. 357
]^. The Mormom have a large community
lat Kirkland, Ohio, where, under the direction
•irtf their prophet, Joseph Smith, they are buikl-
«;ng a vast temple. They have probably 200
preachers, and as many congregations in the
West, and still make proselytes.
13. Christian Sect^ or JVeiclights, have be-
come to a considerable extent amalgamated
with the " JR^eformers,^^ or " Campbellites.'^ I
iiave not data on which to construct a tabular
view of this sect, — but from general informa-
tion, estimate the number of their "bishops,"
and "proclaimers," at 300, and their commu-
nicants at 10,000 or 12,000. They have three
or four monthly periodicals.
Alexander Campbell, who may be justly
■considered the leader of this sect, (though
they disclaim the term sect,) is a learned,
talented, and voluminous writer. He con-
\lucts their leading periodical, the Millennial
Harbino;ei\
14. The " United Brethren in Christ, ^^ are a
pious, moral and exemplary sect, chiefly in
Ohio, but scattered somewhat in other West-
•ern States. They are mostly of German
descent, and in their doctrinal principles and
■usages, very much i*esemble the Methodists.
They have about 300 ministers in the West,
and publish the Religious Telescope, a large
weekly paper, of evangelical principles, and
well conducted. It is printed at Circleville,
Ohio.
15. Reformed Presbyterians, or Covenanters,
15*
358 peck's guide
have 20 or 30 churches, and as many minis-
ters, but are much dispersed through the
Northern Valley.
16. The Associate Church, or Secedcrs, are
more numerous than the Covenanters.
17. The Associate Reformed Church. The
Western Synod of this body still exists as a
separate denomination. Their theological
school, at Pittsburg, has already been noticed.
I know not their numbers, but suppose they
exceed considerably the Associate Church.
18. The Friends or Quakers, have a num-
ber of societies in Western Pennsylvania,
Ohio, Indiana, &c.
19. The Unitarians have societies and minis-
ters at Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Louisville, St.
Louis, and probably in other places.
There are many other sects and fragments
in the West. The Valley of the Mississippi,
like all new countries, is a wide and fertile
field for the propagation of error, as it is for
the display of truth.
IX. Roman Catholics.
The number of Papal Diocesses in the
Valley, including the one at Mobile, is seven,
of each of which a very brief sketch will be
given, commencing with,
1. Detroit, including Michigan and the
North-Western Territory, — 1 bishop, with
sub-officers, 18 priests, and as many chapels.
At Detroit and vicinity, for 2 or 3 miles, in-
oluding the French, Irish and Germans,
FOR EMIGRANTS. 369
Roman Catholic families make up one third of
the population; probably 3,.y)0, of all ages.
At Ann Arbor, and in the towns of Webster,
Scio, Northfield, Lima and Dexter are many.
At and near Bertrand on the St. Joseph's
river, adjoining Indiana, they have a school
established and an Indian mission. Including
the fur traders, and Indians, they may be es-
timated at 10,000 in this Diocess.*
2. Cincimudi. — A large cathedral has been
built in this place, and 15 or !20 chapels in the
Diocess, Ten years ago, the late bishop
Fenwick could not count up 500. The emigra-
tion of foreigners, and the laborers on the Ohio
canals, and not a little success in proselyting,
account for the increase. There are 25 con-
gregations, and 18 priests. A literary institu-
tion, called the JlthencBum, is established at
Cincinnati, where the students are required
to attend the forms of worship, and the
Superior inspects all their letters. St. Peter's
Orphan Asylum is under charge of 4 " Sisters
of Charity." The number of Catholics in
Cincinnati is variously estimated, the medium
of which is 6000, and as many more dispersed
through the State.
3. Bctrdstown. — This includes the State of
Kentucky, and has a bishop, with the usual
subordinates, 27 congregations, and 33 priests,
* The reader will note that our estimates of Roman
Catholics include the whole family of every ai^e. Where-
as, our statistics of Protestant denominations included only
«ommunicunts.
360 peck's guide
11 of whom reside at Bardstown. A convent
of 6 Jesuit priests at Lebanon; another of 5
Dominicans, called St. Rose, in Washington
county; the college at Bardstown, already
noticed, and StMary's Seminary in Wash-
ington county, for the education of priests.
Of female institutions, there are the Female
.Academy of JYazareih at Bardstown, conducted
by the " Sisters of Charity," and superintend-
ed by the bishop and professors of St. Joseph's
college, — 150 pupils; the female academy of
Loretto, Washington county, with accomoda-
tion for 100 boarders, and directed by the
' ' Sisters of Marij at the foot of the cross.'' This
order have six other places for country schools,
and are said to be 135 in number. The
Convent of Holij Mary, and the Monastery of
St. Magdalene, at St. Rose, Washington
county, by Dominican nuns, 15 in number,
and in 1831,30 pupils. The Catholics have
a female academy at Lexington \Yith lOO
pupils.
I have no data to show the Roman Catholic
population of this State, but it is by no means
proportionate to the formidable machinery
here exhibited. All this array of colleges,
seminaries, monasteries, convents and nun-
neries is for the work of proselyting, and if
they are not successful, it only shows that the
current of popular sentin^cnt sets strongly in
another direction.
4. Vincennes. — This is a new Diocess, re-
centlv carved out of Indiana and Illinois bv
FOR EMIGRANTS. 361
the authority of an old gentleman, who lives
in the city of Rome! It includes a dozen
chapels, 4 or 5 priests, the St. Claire convent
at Vincennes, with several other appendages.
The Roman Catholic population of this State
is not numerous, probably not exceeding
3000. Illinois has about 5000, a part of which
is under the jurisdiction of St. Louis Diocess.
In Illinois there are 10 churches, and 6
priests, a part of which are included in the
Diocess of Indiana, A convent of nuns of
the "Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary,'' at
Kaskaskia, who conduct a female school, with
a few boarders and about 30 or 40 day
scholars.
5. »S7. Louis. — This Diocess includes 18
congregations and 19 priests, with the follow-
ing appendages:
1. St. Louis University, already noticed,
with 6 priests for instructers, and 150 students,
of which, about 80 are boarders. The rules
require their attendance on morning and
evening prayers, the catechism, and divine
service on Sundays and holidays. 2. St.
Mary's College, also noticed in our description
of colleges. 3. Noviciate for Jesuits under
St. Stanislaus, in St. Louis county. Of fe-
male institutions there are, — 1. Convent of the
"Ladies of the Sacred Heart,'' at St. Louis; 2.
another of the same description, and their
noviciate, at Florrissant; — 3. another of the
same order at St. Charles; — 4. a female
academy at Carondalet, six miles below St.
362 peck's guide
Louis, by the '^Sisters of Charity ;^^ — 5. a
convent and academy of the "Sisters of
Loretto,^^ at New Madrid; — 6. a convent and
female academy at Frederickstown, under
supervision of a priest; — 7, a convent and
female academy of the " Sisters of Loretto,'^ in
Perry county. The Roman Catholic popula-
tion in Missouri does not exceed 15,000.
Their pupils, of both sexes, may be estimated
at 700. To the above may be added the
hospital, and the asylum for boys, in St.
Louis, under the management of the Sisters
of Charity.
Roman Catholic teachers, usually foreign-
ers, disperse themselves through the country,
and engage in teaching primary schools;
availing themselves of intercourse with the
families of their employers to instruct them in
the dogmas of their religion. The greatest
success that has attended the efforts of the
priests in converting others, has been during
the prevalence of the cholera, and especially
after collapse and insensibility had seized the
person! We know of more than 60 Roman
Catholics who have been converted to the
faith of Christ and joined Christian churches
within 3 or 4 years past, in this State.
6. JVew Orleans. — The Roman Catholics in
Louisiana are numerous, probably including
one third of the population. Relatively,
Protestants are increasing, as a large propor-
tion of the emigration from the other States,
who care any thing about religion, are Pro-
roil EMIGRANTS. 563
testants. There are 26 congregations, and
27 priests with several convents, female semi-
naries, asylums, &c.
7. Mobile. — A splendid cathedral has been
commenced here. This Diocess extends into
Florida.
384
PECK S GUIDE
CHAPTER XV.
Suggestions to Emigrants — Canal, Steamboat and Stage
Routes — Other Modes of Travel— Expenses — Koads,
Distances, &c. &c.
In the concluding chapter to this Gvi'db, it
is proposed to give such inibrmation as is
always desirable to emigrants upon removing,
or travelling for any purpose, to the West.
1. Persons in moderate circumstances, or
who would save time and expense, need not
make a visit to the West, to ascertain partic-
ulars previous to removal. A few general
facts, easily collected from a hundred sources,
will enable persons to decide the great ques-
tion whether they will emigrate to the Valley.
By the same means, emigrants may determine
to what State, and to what part of that State,
their course shall be directed. There are
many things that a person of plain, common
sense will take for granted without inquiry,—
such as facilities for obtaining all the necessa-
ries of life ; the readiness with which property of
any description may be obtained for a fair val-
ue, and especially farms and wild land; that
FOR EMIGRANTS. 365
they can live where hundreds of thousands of
others of simihir habits and feelings live; and
above all, they should take it for granted, that
there are dilficulties to be encountered in
every country, and in all business, — that
these difficulties can be surmounted with rea-
sonable effort, patience and perseverance, and
that in every country, people sicken and die.
2. Having decided to wliat State and part
of the State an emigrant will remove, let him
then conclude to take as little furniture and
other luggage as he can do v/ith, especially
if he comes by public conveyances. Those
v/ho reside within convenient distance of a
sea port, would find it both safe and economi-
cal to ship by New Orleans, in boxes, such
articles as are not v/anted on the road, espe-
cially if they steer for the navigable waters of
the Mississippi. Bed and other clothing,
books, '6lc., packed in boxes, like merchants'
goods, will go much safer and cheaper by
New Orleans, than by any of the inland
routes. I have received more than one hun-
dred packages and boxes, from eastern ports,
by that route, within 20 years, and never lost
one. Boxes should be marked to the owner
or his agent at the river port where destined,
and to the charge of some forwarding house
in New Orleans. The freight and charges
may be paid when the boxes are received.
3. If a person designs to remove to the
north part of Ohio, and Indiana, to Chicago
and vicinity, or to Michigan, or Greenbay
16
366
PECK S GUIDE
his course would be by the New York canai,
and the lakes. The following table, showing
the time of the opening of the canal at Albany
and Buffalo, and the opening of the lake,
from 1827 to 1335, is from a report of a com-
mittee at Buffalo to the common council of
that city. It will be of use to those who wish
to take the northern route in the spring.
Year.
Canal opened at
Canal opened a'
Lake Erio open-
Buftitlo.
Alliany.
ed Ht Buffalo.
1827
April 21
April 21
April 21
1828
1
" 1
" 1
1829
" 25
" 29
May 10
1830
" 15
" 20
April 6
1831
" 16
" 16
ftlay 8
1832
" 18
" 25
April 27
1833
" 22
" 22
" 23
1834
" 16
" 17
6
1835
" 15
" 15
May 8
The same route will carry emigrants to
Cleveland and by the Ohio canal to Columbus,
or to the Ohio river at Portsmouth, from
whence by steamboat, direct communications
will offer to any river port in the Western
States. From Buffalo, steamboats run con-
stantly, (when the lake is open,) to Detroit,
stopping at Erie, Ashtabula, Cleveland, San-
dusky and many other ports from whence
stages run to every prominent town. Trans-
portation wagons are employed in forwarding
goods.
FOR EMIGRANTS.
367
Schedule from Buffalo to Detroit by water.
Dunkirk, N. Y
39
Cleveland, Ohio,
30—193
Portland, "
18—57
Sandusky, "
54—247
Erie, Pa.,
35—92
Amherslburg,N. C.
52—299
Ashtabula, Ohio,
39—131
Detroit, Mich,,
18—317
Fairport, "
32—163
From thence to Chicago^ Illinois
xMilrs.
Miles.
St. Clair River,
Presquelsle,
65—271
fllichigan.
40
xMackinaw,
58—329
Palmer,
17—57
Isle Brule,
75—404
Fort Gratiot,
14—71
Fort Howard, W.
White Rock,
40—111
Territory,
100—504
Thunder Island,
70—181
Milwaukee, W. T.
310—814
Middle Island,
25—206
Chicago, 111.,
90—904
From Cleveland to Portsmoulh, via. Ohio canal.
Miles.
Miles.
Cuyahoga Aqueduc
t, 22 Irville,
26—158
Old Portage,
12— 34 Newark,
13—171
Akron,
4—38 Hebron,
10—181
New Portage,
5 — 43 Licking Summit,
5—186
Clinton,
11 — 54 Lancaster Canaan,
11—197
Masillon,
1 1 — 65 Columbus, side cut
, 18—215
Bethlehem,
6—71 Bloomfield,
8—223
Bolivar,
8—79 Circleville,
9—232
Zoar,
3_82 Cbillicothe,
23—255
Dover,
7—89 Piketon,
25—280
New Philadelphia,
4 — 93,Lucasville,
14 294
New-Comers'
Portsmouth, (Ohio
Town,
22—115
river,)
13—307
Coshocton,
17—132
The most expeditious, pleasant and direct
route for travellers to the southern parts of
Ohio and Indiana; to the Illinois river, as far
368
PECK S GUIDE
north as Peoria; to the Upper Mississippi, as
Quincy, Rock Island, Galena and Prairie du
Chien; to Missouri; and to Kentucky, Ten-
nessee, Arkansas, Natches and New Orleans
is one of the southern routes. There are,
1st, from Philadelphiato Pittsburg by rail-roads
and the Pennsylvania canal ; 2nd, by Baltimore,
— the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road, — and
stages to Wheeling; or, 3dly, for people
living to the south of Washington, by stage,
via Charlottsville, Va., Staunton, the hot,
warm, and white sulphur springs, Lewisburg,
Charlestown, to Guiandotte, from whence a
regular line of steamboats run 3 times a week
to Cincinnati. Intermediate routes from
Washington city to Wheeling; or to Harper's
ferry, to Fredericksburg, and intersect the
route through Virginia at Charlottsville.
From Philadelphia to Pittsburg, via rail-road
and canal.
Miles.
INliles.
Columbia on the Sus-
Petersburg,
8—221
quehanna river
by
Alexandria,
23—244
rail-road, daily
81
Frankstown and
By canal packets
to
Holladaysburgh,
3—247
Bainbridge,
11— 92
From thence by
Middletown,
17—109
rail-road across
Ilarrisburg,
10—119
the mountain to
Juniatta river,
15—134
Johnstown is
38—285
Millerstown,
17—151
By canal to Blairs-
Mifflin,
17— U)8
ville,
35—320
Lewistown,
13—171 Saltzburg,
18—338
Waynesburg,
14—195 Warren,
12—350
Hamiltonville,
11—206 Alleghany river,
16—366
Huntingdon,
7—213
Pittsburg,
28—394
FOR EMIGRANTS. 369
The Pioneer line on this route is exclusively
for passengers, and professes to reach Pitts-
burg in four days — but is sometimes behind
several hours. Fare through, $10. Passen-
gers pay for meals.
Leech's line, called "the Western Transpor-
tation line,'' takes both freight and passengers.
The packet boats advertise to go through to
Pittsburg in jive days for $7.
Midship and steerage passengers in the
transportation line in six and a half days; mer-
chandize delivered in 8 days. Generally,
however, there is some delay. Emigrants
must not expect to carry more than a small
trunk or two on the packet lines. Tiiose
who take goods or furniture, and expect to
keep with it, had better take the transporta-
tion lines with more delay. The price of
meals on the boats is about 37^ cents.
On all the steamboats on the Western waters,
no additional charge is made to cabin passen-
gers for meals, — and the tables are usually
profusely supplied. Strict order is observed,
and the waiters and officers are attentive.
Steamboat route from Pittsburg to the mouth
of Ohio.
Miles-
Middletown, Pa. 11
Economy, " 8—19
Beaver, " 10—29
Miles.
Warren, Ohio, 6— 82
Wheelimr, Va., 10— 92
Elizabothtovvn, " 11 — 103
Georgetown, " 13 — 42 Sistersville, " 34 — 137
Steubenville, Ohio, 27— 69|Newport, Ohio, 27— 1C4
Wellsburgh, Va., 1—1^\ Marietta, " 14—178
370
PECK S GUIDE
Miles.
Parkersburgh,Va., 11—189
Belpre,and Blenner-
hassett'slsl'd,0., 4—193
Troy, Ohio, 10—203
Belleville, Va., 7—210
Letart's Rapids, " 37 — 247
Point Pleasant, " 27—274
Gallipolis, Ohio, 4—278
Gvyandot, Va., 27—305
Burlington, Ohio, 10 — 315
Greensburg, Ky., 19—334
Concord, Ohio, 12—346
Portsmouth,{Ohio,
canal,) 7
Vancebiirg, Ky., 20
Manchester, Ohio, 16
Ky,
Ohio,
Ky.,
Ohio,
Mcnjsville,
Charleston,
Ripley,
Augusta,
Neville,
Moscow,
Pohit Pleasant,
New Richmond
Columbia,
Fulton,
Cincinnati,
North Bend,
Lawrenceburgh , la. ,
and mouth of the
ftliami,
Aurora,
Petersburg,
Bellevue,
Rising Sun,
Fredericks-
burgh,
Vevay, la.,
Ghent,
Port William, Ky., 8-
Madison, In., 15-
New London, " 12-
Bethlehem, " 8
Westport, Ky., 7-
Transylvania, " 15
Louisville, Ky., 12
Shippingsport thro'
353
373
389
400
404
410
418
425
432
436
443
■458
464
—466
—431
Ky.
la.
In.
la.,
Ky..
la.
18-
Ky.,
and
Ky., 11
the canal, 2^-
New Albany, In., 1.^
Salt River,
Northampton
Leavenworth
Fredonia,
Rome,
Troy,
Rockport,
Owen burgh,
EvansvilU,
Henderson, Ky,
Mount Vernon, la.,
Carthage, Ky.,
Wabash River, "
Shawnedoion, 111.,
Mouth of Saline, "
Cave in Rock, "
Golconda, "
Smithland, mouth
of the Cumber-
land River, Ky., 10—915
Paducah, mouth
of the Tennessee
River, Ky., 13—928
Caledonia, 111., 31—959
503.Trinity, mouth of
Cash River, III., 10—969
521 Mouth of the
Ohio River, 6—975
5321
—489
—491
—493
—501
23
18-
17
2
32
" 25
" 16
Ky., 12
la., 36-
12
28-
12
7-
11
12
10
19
Miles.
-540
-555
-567
—575
-582
-597
-609
-611i
—613
—636
—654
671
673
705
730
746
758
794
—806
834
846
853
864
—876
886
—905
FOR EMIGRANTS. 371
Persons who wish to visit Indianopolis will
stop at Madison, la., and take the stage con-
veyance. From Louisville, via Vincennes,
to St. Louis by stage, every alternate day,
273 miles, through in three days and half.
Fare §17. Stages run from Vincennes to
Terre Haute and other towns up the Wabash
river. At Evansville, la., stage lines are
connected with Vincennes and Terre Haute;
and at Shawneeiowu twice a week to Carlyle,
111., where it intersects the line from Louis-
ville to St. Louis. From Louisville to Nash-
ville by steamboats, passengers land at Smith-
land at the mouth of Cumberland river, unless
they embark direct for Nasiiville.
In the 'w in! er both stage and steamboat lines
are uncertain and irregular. Ice in the nvers
frequently obstructs navigation, and high
waters and bad roads sometimes prevent
stages from running regularly.
Farmers who remove to the West from the
Northern and Middle States, will lind it ad-
vantageous in many instances to remove with
their own teams and wagons. These they
will need on their arrival. Autumn, or from
September till November, is the favorable
season for this mode of emigration. The
roads are then in good order, the weather
usually favorable, and feed plenty. I^eople of
all classes from the States south oi' the Ohio y^
river, remove with largo wagons, carry and
cook their own provisions, purchase their
372 peck's guide
feed by the bushel, and invariably encamp cut
at ni^'hl.
Individuals who wisli to travel through the
interior of Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Mis-
souri, &c., will find that the most convenient,
sure, economical and independent mode is en
horseback. Their expenses will be (rorn 7.5
cents to ^l 50 per day, and they can always
consult their own convenience and pleasure
as to time and place.
Stage Tare is usually 6 cents per mile in tlic
West. Meals at stage houses, 3'i-> cents.
Ste amboa / fare , inc hiding raca Is .
From Pittsburg to Cincinnati, . . . . . . ^-UO
" Cincinnati to Ijouisville, 4
" Louisville to St. Louis, 12
And frequently the same from Cincinnati to
St. Louis; — varying a little, however.
A deck passage, ay it is called, may be rated
as folio v.s:
From Pittsbuig to Cincinnati, ^y^S
" Cincinnati to Louisville, 1
" Louisville to St. Louis, 4
The deck for such passengers is usually in
the midship, forward the engine, and is pi-o-
tected from the weather. Passengers furnish
their own provisions and bedding. They often
take their menls at the cabin table, with the
boat hands, and pay 9Sj cents a meal. Thou-
sands pass up and down the rivers as deck
FOR EMIGRA.NTS. 373
passengers, esp\ccially emigrating families,
who have their bedding, provisions, and cook-
ing utensils en board.
The whole expense of a single person from
New York to St. Louis, via. Philadelphia and
Pittsburg, with cabin passage on the river,
will range between ^^40 and §45. Time from
12 to 15 days.
Taking the transportation lines on the Penn-
sylvania canal, and a deck passage on the
steamboat, and the expenses will range be-
tween 20 and $25, supposing the person buys
liis meals at 25 cents, and eats twice a day.
Li' he carry his own provisions, the passage,
&c., will be from 15 to $18.
The following is from an advertisement of the
Western Transporlalion , or Leech's Line, from
Philadelphia :
Miles. Days.
Fare to Pittsburg, 400 Qh $6 00
" " Cincinnati, 900 8i 8 50
" "Louisville, 1050 9i 9 00
" " Nashville, 1650 13i 13 00
" " St. Louis, 1750 14 13 00
The above docs not include meals.
Packet Boats for Cabin Passengers, same line.
Wiles. Days.
Fare to Pittsburg, 400 5 p
" " Cincinnati, 900 8 17
" "Louisville, 1050 9 19
" " Nashville, 1650 13 27
" " St. Louis, 1750 13 27
/
374 peck's guide.
Emigrants and travellers will find it to their
interest always to be a little sceptical relative
to the statements of stage, steam and canal
boat agents, to make some allowance in their
own calculations for delays, difficulties and ex-
penses, and above all, to fed perfectly patient
and in good humor with themselves, the
officers, company, and the world, even if they
do not move quite as rapid, and fare quite as
well as they desire.
ERRATA.
Page 40, 8th line from the bottom, for Tau-mar-ivtns,
read Tau-mar-waus.
41. For Mihvankce, read Mihvaukee.
" For Fonti, read Toati.
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3
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Religions Works.
THE COMPLETE WORKS OF THE REV.
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This is a very interesting work, and should be in the
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BAXTER'S SAINT'S REST. By Rev. Rich-
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