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NEW  ORLEANS 

GUIDE, 


With  Descriptions  of   the  Routes  to   New   Orleans, 
SiGHi^s   of    the    City  Arranged  Alphabet- 
ically, AND  Other  Information 
Useful  to  Travelers  ; 


ALSO, 


Outlines  of  the  History  of  Louisiana, 


BY 


HON.  JAMES  S.  ZACHARIE, 

Second  Vice  President  of  the  Louisiana  Historical  Society,  Member  of  the  City  Council 

of  New  Orleans. 


MAP    OF    NEW    0,RLEA:NS. 


NEW  ORLEANS . 
F.  F.  Hansell  <fc  Bro.,  Ltd, 


iHfc  LiLRAKY  OH' 
CONGRESS, 

Two  Copies  R«ceiv(uj 

iAN    2  1903 

Copyrignt    Entry 

CUSS  ^    XXc.  N« 
^  1    ^  .T  / 

COPY  B. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  year  1893,  by 

F.  F.  HA:N'SELL  &  BRO., 
in  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  year  1902,  by 

F.  F.  HANSELL  &  BRO.,  Ltd.. 
in  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress  at  Washington. 


rx^s%.^ 


MEW  ORLEANS,   UA. 


INDEX. 


Accommodations     54 

jOAmusements  and  Holidays  (dates  of)  68 

-  Aonusements    100 

^-  Antique   and   Bric-a-Brac   Stores...  60 

Archbishop's    Palace 106 

>  Armories     107 

,  N  Asylums    115 

^■^  Athletics    110 

IN  Auctioneers'  Old  Exchange 124 

Baggage  Transfer 47 

'     Balls   (Carnival) 68 

Banks    124 

.  ,  Barbers 60 

Barracks    (U.   S.) 126 

Baths 60 

Beer   Saloons , 58 

■-  Books  on   Louisiana 322 

»   Books  by  Louisiana  Authors 322 

V  Booksellers    60 

^  Cabildo    '.  128 

^  Canal    Street 126 

Carondelet   Street 126 

Car  System 77 

Cemeteries   130 

St.  Louis  No.  1 134 

Metairie     136 

St.  Roch's 137 

Chalmette   138 

Church    Directory 138 

Churches    146 

Cathedral   of  St.   Louis 146 

Jesuits'   Church 148 

St.  Joseph's    151 

St.   Stephen's 152 

St.    Alphonsus' 152 

St.    Mary's 153 

St.    Patrick's 154 

St.  Maurice's 156 

Christ  Church  Cathedral 156 

Trinity   Church 158 

St.  Paul's 158 

First   Presbyterian  Church 158 

Free  Church  of  Annunciation .  .  15S 

Prytania  Presbyterian  Church.  160 

Temple  Sinai 160 

Carondelet  M.  E.   Church 161 

Greek   Church.- 161 

City   Government 161 

City   Hall 162 

Clubs     164 

Confectioners    58 

Cotton    Exchange 176 

Cotton    Presses 178 

Cotton  Trade 170 

Cotton   Seed  Oil  Mills 178 

Courts   179 

Creole  Population 174 

Customhouse   (U.  S.) 180 

Depots  (Railroad) 258 

Directions  for  Tourists 73 

Distances  in  City 48 

Districts     (Municipal) 186 

Dock    (Naval) 236 

Drives    83 


Express    Offices 62 

Excursions   (Cars  in  City) 81 

Excursions  Out  of  City 84 

Fair    Grounds 187 

Ferries     81 

Fire   Alarm 188 

Fire    Department 188 

French  Market 212 

Geodetic    Stone 193 

Hack    Tariff 40 

FTealth    194 

Hennen    Building   Observatory 195 

Historical    Society 195 

Holidays    68 

Hospitals    196 

Hotels    52 

History  of  Louisiana   (Out- 
lines of) 284-321 

Discovery  of  Louisiana 284 

French    Take   Possession 286 

Settlement  by  the  French 286 

Foundation  of  New  Orleans...  288 

Cession  to  Spain 289 

Snaniards  Take  Possession....  290 

New  Orleans  Fortified 293 

Retrocession   to   France 294 

French  Resume  Possession 295 

Louisiana  Sold  to  the  U.  S 206 

Americans    Take    Possession...  296 

Louisiana  as  a  Territory 298 

Louisiana  Admitted  as  a  State.  298 

Battle  of  New   Orleans 298 

Louisiana  as  a   State 312 

Secession   of   Louisiana 312 

Civil  War 312 

Louisiana  Since  the  War 313 

Governors  of  Louisiana 316 

Ice    Manufactures 200 

Indians    202 

Jetties   202 

Lake   Ends 204 

Levee   208 

Levee   Register 192 

Libraries   208 

Louisiana    Authors 322 

Markets    (Public) 212 

Memorial    Hall 210 

Messenger    Service 62 

Militia    (State) 236 

Mint   (IT.   S.) 234 

Monuments     224 

Museums    234 

Navy    Yard 236 

New  Orleans   (City  of) 86 

New  Orleans  (Old  City  of) 93 

Newspapers  of  City 242 

Orange   Groves 243 

Parish  Prison 244 

Parks  and  Squares 244 


INDEX — Continued. 


Police    252 

Port  of  New  Orleans 256 

Postoffioe     254 

Postal  Rates 255 

Produce  Exchange 257 

Promenades   82 

Public    Halls. 257 

Races     258 

Restaurants    58 

Routes   to   New   Orleans 7-46 

Illinois   Central   R.   R 8 

Louisville  &  Nashville  R.   R...  11 

Mississippi   Valley   R.   R 24 

N.  O.  &  St.  Louis  Short  Line.  .  36 

N.  O.  &  Northeastern  R.  R.  .  .  .  28 

Southern  Pacific  R.  R 32 

Texas   &   Pacific   R.   R 34 

Mississippi   River   Route 36 

Sea    Route 42 

Saloons     58 

Sanitariums    60 

St.  Roch's  Shrine 137 

Schools    260 

Sights  of  the  City  (alphabeti- 

callv) 100-282 

Sight-Seeing   74 


Slaucrhter   Houses 260 

Social    Customs 63 

Societies     (Benevolent) 262 

Sophie  Newcomb  College 270 

Suear    Exchange 266 

Suear    Planting 262 

Sugar    Sheds 264 

Sugar  Trade 262 

Telegraph    Offices 62 

Telephone    Office 62 

Theatres,    etc I'OO-l  06 

French   Onera   House 100 

Tulane   Tbpatre 102 

Crescent    Theatre 102 

Grand   Opera   House 102 

St.   Charles  Orpheum 104 

Audubon    Theatre 104 

Halls    (Public)    104 

Time   Signals 266 

Tulane  Hall 220 

Fniversity    (Tulane) : 266 

Ursulines    Convent 273 

Wards  of  the  City  (boundaries  of)  .    276 

Waterworks    282 

Wharves  and  Landings 192 


INDEX  TO  ILLUSTRATIONS  AND  MAPS; 

MAP  OF  CITY   OF  NEW  ORLEANS  AND  STREET  INDICATOR. 


Audubon    Place  Entrance. 61 

Audubon  Park — Horticultural  Hall .  24* 

Audubon  Park  Oaks 245 

Audubon  Park — Washington  Oak. .  .  249 

Audubon    Theatre 105 

Battlefield  of  New  Orleans 299 

Boston    Club 163 

Cabildo    125 

Camp  Street 52 

Canal  Street 69 

Carondelet    Street     (Hennen     Bldg. 

and  Cotton  Exchange) 37 

Charity  Hospital — Main  Building.  .  197 

Charity  Hospital — Ambulance  Bldg.  201 
Charity  Hospital — Miliken  Memorial—- 

Chartres   Street 91 

Chess,  Checkers  &  Whist  Club 97 

Christ   Church  Cathedral 155 

City   Hall 17 

City    Library 285 

City    Park 263 

City   Park— "The   Oaks" 261 

Clay   Statue 217 

Coliseum  Place  Baptist  Church....  143 

Confederate  Home — Camp  Nicholls.  203 

Cotton  Compress 13 

Cotton   Exchange 175 

Cotton    Field   and    Picking 9 

Cotton  Press  Yard 12 

Courtyard   (French  Quarter) 57 


Crescent  &  Tulane  Theatre  Arcade.    103 
Criminal    Court    Building 19 

Elks'    Home 171 

Pishing  Club — Chef  Menteur 23 

Franklin    Statue 219 

French   Market   Scenes 213 

French   Vegetable  Market 211 

French   Opera  House 99 

French    Quarter    (Entrance    to    a 

Yard)    94 

Grand  Opera  House 101 

Hansen  &  Bro.  Ltd.   (Interior  View)  117 

Harmony    Club 167 

Hennen   Bldg.    (View  from  Roof)..  75 

Howard   Memorial   Library 283 

Jesuits'  Church 149 

Jetties     209 

Levee — Loading   Cotton 35 

Levee  Scene 45 

Map  of  City 

Mardi   Gras   Pageant 66 

Margaret    Statue 235 

Masonic    Temple 57 

Memorial    Hall 277 

Memorial    Hall — Museum 270 


INDEX  TO  ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued. 


Metairie  Cemetery  Entrance 127 

Metairie    Cemetery 133 

Metairie    Cemetery 129 

Miliken    Memorial    Hospital 199 

Mississippi    River    Steamboats 39 

Monuments — 

Army  Northern  Virginia 231 

Army   of   Tennessee 233 

Chalmette    225 

Confederate    227 

Fourteenth  of   September 237 

Jackson    Monument 215 

Lee    223 

McDonoge 221 

Mouth    of    the    Mississippi    River 

(The  Delta)    207 

Old  Building  (French  Quarter)  ....  89 

New   St.   Charles  Hotel 51 

Perspective  View  of  City 

Pickwick  Club   165 

Plan  of  New  Orleans  Fortifications 

1770    95 

Prytania   St.   Presbyterian  Church.  139 

Rayne  Memorial  Church 141 

Rice  Threshing    "33 

St.  Charles  Orpheum 109 

St.  Charles  Street  (St.  Charles  Hotel 

in  distance)    15 


St.     Louis     Cemetery — Old    Vaults, 

called    "Ovens" 131 

St.  Peter  Street  (French  Quarter)  .  87 

St.  Roch's  Chapel 135 

State  Capitol  at  Baton  Rouge 27 

State    Flag 23 

State    Flower 41 

State    Seal 29 

Sugar    Landing 43 

Street    Scenes 31 

Southern  Athletic  Club 121 

Southern   Yacht  Club 173 

Sugar  Cane  Field 25 

Sugar   Exchange 265 

Temple    Sinai 159 

Theatre  Plans,  French  Opera  House  111 

Theatre  Plans,  Grand  Opera  House.  113 

Theatre  Plans,  Tulane  Theatre 112 

Trinity   Church 157 

Tulane   University — Gibson    Hall. . .  267 
Tulane  University — Newcomb  Col- 
lege      269 

Tulane  University — Richardson  Me- 
morial      271 

U.   S.   Customhouse 177 

U.  S.  Customhouse — Marble  Hall..  183 

U.   S.   Mint 239 

U.  S.  Naval  Dock 241 

Washington  Artillery 229 

Young  Men's  Christian  Association.  123 

Young   Men's  Gymnastic  Club 119 


Routes  to  New  Orleans, 


The  Tourist  has  the  choice  of  nine  distinct  routes  to  reach 
the  City  of  New  Orleans;  for  a  description  of  the  various 
points  of  interest  on  each  route,  with  their  distances  from  New 
Orleans,  see  each  heading  as  follows : 

Firstly.  The  Ilinois  Central  Route,  of  the  Illinois  Central 
^ilroad,  from  the  West  and  North  via  Jackson,  IMiss. 

Secondly.  The  Louisville  &  Nashville  Route,  of  the  Louis- 
ville &  Nashville  Railroad,  via  Mobile,  Ala.,  from  the  North 
and  West. 

Thirdly.  The  Mississippi  Valley  Route,  of  the  Yazoo  and 
Mississippi  Valley  Railroad,  from  the  North  and  West,  via 
Memphis,  Vicksburg  and  Baton  Rouge. 

Fourthly.  The  Queeri  &  Crescent  Route,  of  the  New 
Orleans  and  North  Eastern  Railroad,  from  the  North  and 
West,  via  Cincinnati,  Chattanooga  and  Meridian,  Miss. 

Fifthly.  The  Southern  Pacific  Route,  of  Morgan's  Louis- 
iana &  Texas  Railroad,  from  California,  Texas  and  Western 
Louisiana  (via  the  Teche  country)  and  Morgan  City. 

Sixthly.  The  Texas  Pacific  Route,  of  the  New  Orleans  & 
Pacific  Railroad,  from  California  and  Northern  Texas,  North- 
West  Louisiana,  via  Dallas,  Shreveport,  Alexandria  and  Don- 
aldsonville. 

Seventhly.  New  Orleans  &  St.  Louis  Short  Line,  via  the 
Gould  roads,  from  St.  Louis  and  places  on  the  West  bank  of 
the  Mississippi  river  and  via  the  Texas  Pacific  Railroad,  from 
Baton  Rouge  Junction. 

Eighthly.  The  River  Route,  by  the  Mississippi  river  steam- 
ers, from  the  West  (via  Cairo),  Memphis,  Vicksburg  and 
Baton  Rouge. 

Ninthly.  The  Sea  Route,  by  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Mississippi;  from  New  York,  by  the  Southern 
Pacific  line  of  steamers;  from  Vera  Cruz  and  all  ports  of 
Mexico,  by  the  Southern  Pacific  and  other  lines  of  steamships ; 
from  Central  America,  by  the  United  Fruit  Company's  and 
other  lines ;  from  Europe  by  various  lines  of  steamers. 


8  New  Orleans  Guide. 

ILLINOIS  CENTRAL  ROUTE. 

The  Tourist,  by  this  route,  once  called  the  Great  Jackson 
Route,  after  passing  through  Jackson,  Miss.  (Vicksburg  and 
Meridian  Railroad  Junction),  crosses  the  boundary  line  of 
Louisiana,  about  a  half  mile  below  Osyka. 

OsYKA.  (88  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  town  of  Osyka, 
named  after  the  sister  of  Osceola,  the  celebrated  Indian  chief, 
is  a  village  of  about  one  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  the 
centre  of  a  region  of  small  cotton  farms.  After  passing  Osyka, 
which  is  250  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  the  railroad  runs 
down  a  hill,  as  it  were,  until  it  reaches  the  alluvial  lands 
below  Pontchatoula,  which  are  only  a  few  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  On  the  right,  three  miles  below  Osyka, 
hidden  among  the  trees,  is  Roncal,  the  former  home  of  the 
Hon.  Charles  Gayarre,  the  historian  of  Louisiana. 

Amite  City.  (68  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  Amite  City,  the 
next  place  of  importance,  is  a  thriving  town,  noted  for  its 
manufactory  of  Gullet's  Cotton  Gins.  The  railroad  continues 
on  through  heavy  pine  forests,  broken  here  and  there  with 
small  cotton  patches  and  the  land  commences  to  get  flat. 

Hammond.  (52  miles  from  New  Orlmns.)  A  thriving  place 
settled  by  Western  people  who  are  engaged  in  truck  farming. 
The  station  will  in  the  future  become  an  important  one,  as  it 
will  be  the  junction  of  a  railroad  to  Baton  Rouge,  49  miles  due 
West. 

Pontchatoula.  (47  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  This  place 
is  a  small  village  or  settlement  and  is  surrounded  by  forests  of 
gigantic  pines.  Pontchatoula  means,  in  Choctaw,  falling  hair, 
and  among  the  Indians  of  that  locality,  the  custom  of  cutting 
off  the  hair  of  a  girl  guilty  of  frailty  still  prevails.  A  fev/ 
miles  below  the  station,  which  is  forty  feet  above  the  sea,  the 
land  gradually  slopes,  the  pines  commence  to  disappear,  th-* 
5oil  changes  from  yellow  to  black,  and  soon  the  tourist  finds 
himself  riding  over  alluvial  ground. 

Pass  Manchac.  (37  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  Manchac 
(Indian  for  Pass)  is  a  small  station  at  which  the  bridge 
crosses  the  pass  of  the  same  name.  This  pass,  about  five  miles 
long,  connects  Lakes  Maurepas  and  Pontchartrain,  two  lakes 
named  after  celebrated  French  ministers,     From  the  bridge 


COTTON  PICKING. 


10  New  Orleans  Guide. 

{on  the  right  side  of  the  train)  is  seen  Lake  Maurepas,  a  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  water  about  ten  miles  wide,  which  serves  as  a 
drain  for  the  surrounding  country.  At  the  head  of  the  lake 
Manchac  river  flows  in,  taking  its  rise  near  the  Mississippi 
river.  Manchac  river,  at  one  time  called  Iberville  river,  was 
originally  one  of  the  outlets  of  the  Mississippi,  the  waters  of 
which  flowed  through  Lakes  Maurepas,  Pontchartrain  and 
Borgne  to  the  sea,  making  the  territory  on  which  New  Orleans 
stood  as  an  island,  called  ''the  Island  of  Orleans."  At  the 
junction  of  Manchac  river  and  the  Mississippi  river  the  Span- 
iards built  a  fort,  and,  in  1814,  Jackson  fearing  that  the 
British  might  attempt  to  approach  New  Orleans  from  the  rear 
by  passing  through  the  lakes  and  the  Manchac  river  to  the 
Mississippi,  dispatched  a  force  to  that  point,  and  caused  the 
Manchac  river  to  be  closed  by  a  dam. 

Crossing  the  railroad  bridge,  the  boundary  line  between  the 
Federal  and  Confederate  forces  during  the  Civil  War,  the 
tourist  will  notice  {on  the  left)  the  traces  of  a  redoubt  built  by 
the  Federals  to  command  the  Pass  and  the  railroad  track.  The 
railroad  now  enters  a  deep  swamp  of  cypress  and  palmetto 
(called  by  the  natives  ''latanier'').  The  cypress  trees  are 
gigantic  and  are  festooned  with  moss,  a  parasitic  growth  of 
some  value.  This  moss,  which  is  grey  and  of  a  velvety  soft- 
ness, is  gathered  with  long  poles  and  taken  in  skiffs  to  the 
cabins.  There,  it  is  cured  by  being  rotted  in  stacks  or  steeped 
in  water  until  black,  when  it  is  taken  out  and  dried,  baled, 
and  sent  to  market,  where  it  is  bought  by  mattress  makers  and 
upholsterers.  The  palmetto,  or  latanier,  has  a  fibrous  root 
which  the  natives  cut  up  and  use  for  scrubbing  brushes,  and  on 
Palm  Sunday,  the  leaves  are  used  to  make  crosses  and  other 
designs  to  be  blessed  by  the  priests. 

Frenier.  (23  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  This  station  is  a 
small  settlement  of  farmers,  mostly  Germans,  who  raise  fine 
cabbages.  The  soil  is  rich,  but  very  wet,  and  the  waters  of 
Lake  Pontchartrain,  distant  a  few  yards  to  the  left,  often 
overflow  it  several  feet. 

Bayou  Labranche.  This  small  station  is  a  great  resort  of 
hunters  from  the  city.  Crossing  the  bayou  the  railroad  enters 
a  large,  trembling  prairie,  the  soil  of  which  is  very  soft.  In 
laying  the  railroad  track  the  engineers  experienced  great  diffi- 
culty in  finding  a  good  foundation.     The  whole  road-bed 


Routes  to  New  Orleans.  11 

through  this  prairie  was  built  on  piles  and  often  one  blow  of 
the  pile-driver  would  send  them  out  of  sight.  About  five  miles 
to  the  right  is  the  Bonnet  Carre  bend  of  the  Mississippi  river. 
In  1874,  the  Mississippi  broke  through  that  bend  with  great 
force  and  sought  an  outlet  to  the  sea  over  this  prairie  and 
through  Lake  Pontchartrain.  The  water  rose  above  the  iron 
of  the  track  and  cut  off  direct  communication  between  New 
Orleans  and  the  North,  necessitating  a  connection  by  boat  via 
Manchac.  The  sediment  left  by  this  flood  (called  a  crevasse] y 
is  river  sand  and  has  elevated  the  prairie  a  few  inches.  Since 
that  time  the  trestle  has  been  raised  above  overflow  and  filled 
up. 

Kenner.  (10  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  After  leaving 
the  trembling  prairie,  the  traveler  passes  through  sugar  plan- 
tations, the  sugar  houses  of  which  loom  up  in  the  distance  with 
tall  chimneys ;  near  these  are  other  large,  square,  heavy  look- 
ing chimneys  for  burning  ^'hagasse'^  or  cane,  from  which  the 
mill  has  already  extracted  the  juice.  Kenner,  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Mississippi  Valley  Railroad,  is  a  small  town  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Mississippi  river,  which  is  seen  on  the  right,  a 
few  hundred  yards  distant  from  the  station.  By  river,  Ken- 
ner is  fifteen  miles  distant  from  New  Orleans  and  only  ten 
miles  by  rail.  The  railroad  track  then  passes  through  the  lines 
of  fortifications  erected  by  the  city  of  New  Orleans  during  the 
war,  enters  the  woods,  from  which  it  emerges  into  the  swamp 
in  the  rear  of  the  city.  The  track  crosses  shell  roads  as  white 
as  snow,  and  draining  canals  as  black  as  ink;  in  the  distance 
the  traveler  {on  the  left  side  of  the  train)  catches  his  first  view 
of  the  city  with  its  steeples  and  high  buildings.  The  train 
enters  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad  depot  on  Howard  avenue, 
half  mile  distant  from  Canal  street.  Carriages,  cahs,  and 
omnibuses  are  always  in  waiting  at  each  train.  Cars  {fare  5 
cents)  pass  in  front  of  the  depot.  For  carriage  rates  see  local 
tariff. 

LOUISVILLE  AND  NASHVILLE  ROUTE. 

The  Tourist  approaching  New  Orleans  by  this  route,  after 
leaving  the  city  of  Mobile,  passes  through  a  region  of  pine 
woods,  the  soil  of  which  is  poor  and  sandy.  Approaching  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  towards  which  the  railroad  makes  a  direct  line, 
the  Gulf  is  soon  reached.    The  track  is  ahnost  level  and  very 


14  New  Orleans  Guide. 

fast  time  is  made.  The  distance  from  Mobile  to  New  Orleans  is 
141  miles  and  a  special  train  once  made  the  run  in  two  hours 
and  forty-seven  minutes. 

SCRANTON.  (101  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  first  place 
of  importance  is  Seranton,  a  small  town  in  the  State  of  Missis- 
sippi, situated  near  the  mouth  of  East  Pascagoula  river,  which 
flows  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  This  place  is  noted  as  one  of 
the  principal  ports  for  shipping  lumber  and  shingles.  The 
mills  are  situated  on  the  river,  a  few  miles  above  the  town, 
and  large  quantities  of  yellow  pine  lumber  are  shipped  to  all 
parts  of  the  world.  The  river  divides  itself  into  two  branches, 
the  East  and  West  Pascagoula,  and  each  empties  into  the  Gulf 
a  few  miles  distant.  The  railroad  crosses  both  branches  by  a 
long  bridge  and  from  the  train  {left  side)  the  big  ships  can  be 
seen  riding  at  anchor  in  the  Gulf  outside  the  bar,  waiting  for 
cargoes  of  lumber.  After  crossing  the  bridge.  West  Pasca- 
goula is  reached,  at  which  point  are  located  the  railroad  com- 
pany's works,  where  all  timber  used  in  the  construction  of 
bridges  is  made  durable  and  proof  against  worms  by  steeping 
it  in  a  preparation  of  creosote. 

Ocean  Springs.  (85  miles  from,  New  Orleans.)  The  next 
imr>ortant  point  is  Ocean  Springs,  a  Summer  resort  on  the  Bay 
of  Biloxi  (pronounced  Be-lux-ee).  An  hotel  and  several  ex- 
cellent boarding  houses  make  this  place  a  pleasant  Summer 
resort.  On  a  small  point  above  the  bridge  and  on  the  left  side 
of  the  bay  the  French  landed  in  1699  and  made  their  first  set- 
tlement, which  was  called  Biloxi,  after  the  tribe  of  Indians 
who  inhabited  the  country.  The  colonists  had  a  hard  life,  and 
it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  they  managed  to  exist.  The 
site  was  badly  chosen  and  the  aspect  of  the  surrounding 
country  very  uninviting.  The  ships,  which  brought  their 
supplies  from  France,  for  the  land  yielded  almost  nothing, 
were  obliged,  on  account  of  their  heavy  draught,  to  anchor 
off  Ship  Island,  about  twenty  miles  distant.  The  equinoctial 
storms,  which  annually  visited  these  waters  with  great  violence, 
often  drove  the  vessels  from  their  anchorage  to  be  wrecked  on 
the  innumerable  sand  bars  along  this  coast.  When  these  storms 
ceased,  the  English  cruisers  would  sometimes  suddenly  make 
their  appearance  and  engage  the  ships  in  battle.  Behind  the 
Fort  was  a  deep  unexplored  pine  forest,  inhabited  by  hostile 
savages  who  were  ready,  like  vultures,  to  sweep  down  on  this 


ST.    CHARLES    STREET. 


16  New  Orleans  Guide. 

small  band  of  adventurers  the  instant  they  became  too  weak 
to  offer  resistance.  Once,  after  several  months  of  patient  and 
anxious  watching  of  the  horizon,  the  white  sails  of  the  ships 
from  France  made  the  hearts  of  the  colonists  glad  once  more 
and  told  them  they  had  not  been  forgotten  and  left  to  die  on  a 
barren  shore.  Alas !  this  brave  handful  of  colonists  little  sus- 
pected on  seeing  the  ships  that  a  new  colonist,  in  the  form  of 
a  strange  and  dreadful  disease,  was  brought  which  would 
almost  annihilate  their  band.  These  ships,  on  their  way  from 
France,  had  stopped  at  some  ports  in  the  West  India  Islands 
and  the  crews  had  there  contracted  yellow  fever,  which 
they  now  were  to  plant  on  the  soil  of  the  new  colony  for  ages 
to  come.  Soon  after  the  arrival  of  these  ships,  the  disease 
broke  out  among  the  colonists.  The  first  victim  was  Sauvolle, 
the  Governor,  who  died  and  was  buried  in  the  Fort  under  the 
shadow  of  the  white  banner  of  France,  which  he  had  unfurled 
there  himself.  The  seat  of  government  was  moved  to  New 
Orleans  in  1718,  and  it  remained  there  for  many  years. 

Crossing  the  bridge.  Deer  and  Horn  Islands  are  seen  on  the 
left,  low  sand  spits,  the  latter  deriving  its  name  from  its  re- 
semblance to  the  shape  of  a  powder  horn.  At  night,  the  red 
light  of  the  lighthouse  on  Horn  Island  is  visible  for  miles.  In 
the  distance,  some  twenty  miles  to  the  South,  is  Ship  Island  or 
Tie  aux  Yaisseaux,  as  named  by  the  French,  from  its  being  the 
anchorage  of  their  ships  {vaisseaiix) .  These  islands  of  the  Gulf 
are  very  low  and  sandy,  and  forming  a  chain  or  breakwater 
along  the  coast,  the  water  between  them  and  the  mainland  be- 
ing called  the  Mississippi  Sound.  Ship  Island  is  about  ei^ht 
miles  long  and  its  greatest  width  is  about  a  half  mile.  On  the 
West  end  is  a  fixed  white  light  and  near  it  is  the  Fort,  built  by 
Gen.  Butler  during  the  late  Civil  War,  when  this  island  was 
made  the  rendezvous  of  the  expedition  against  New  Orleans. 
This  place  was  used  as  a  penal  settlement  during  the  War, 
when  the  mere  nod  of  the  Commanding  General  was  the  signal 
to  send  there  any  citizen  of  New  Orleans,  male  or  female,  for 
the  slightest  offense  or  on  the  least  suspicion.  The  National 
Board  of  Health  has  established  a  Quara7itine  Post  on  this 
island,  where  invalids  may  be  taken  care  of  and  infected  ships 
fumigated.     The  island  is  reached  from  Biloxi  by  sail  boats. 

BiLOxi.  (80  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  After  crossing  the 
bridge,  the  next  station  is  Biloxi  (pronounced  (Be-lux-ee),  a 
popular  watering  place  situated  on  the  Sound.  Hotel :  Montr oss 


18  New  Orleans  Guide. 

House.  This  place  is  celebrated  for  its  bathing,  fishing  and 
fine  oysters.  Good  sail  boats  and  skiffs  may  be  hired  at  reason- 
able rates.  The  hotels  front  the  beach  and  are  within  a  short 
walking  distance  of  the  station.  Conveyances  meet  all  trains. 
One  mile  beyond  Biloxi  are  the  Methodist  Camp-Meeting 
grounds  {Camp  Ground  Station),  situated  on  the  sea-shore, 
where  camp-meetings  are  held  every  Summer. 

Beauvoir,  a  small  station,  is  a  few  miles  beyond.  Near  this 
place  is  the  Marine  Villa  of  the  late  Hon.  Jefferson  Davis,  th;^ 
ex-president  of  the  Southern  Confederacy.  From  Biloxi  1o 
the  Bay  St.  Louis  {pronounced  Saint  Lou-ee) ,  the  track  is 
laid  through  a  flat  sandy  pine  region  at  the  distance  of  about 
a  half  mile  from  the  sea,  the  blue  waves  of  which  are  visible 
at  intervals  through  the  openings  in  the  woods.  The  houses 
along  the  coast  front  on  the  beach  and  beautiful  lawns  of 
velvety  Bermuda  grass,  ornamented  with  the  orange,  lemon, 
banana,  pomegranate,  w^hite  and  red  oleander  and  other  tropi- 
cal trees,  slope  towards  the  water.  The  houses,  surrounded  by 
large  and  cool  verandahs,  have  many  openings  to  admit  aJl 
the  breeze.  Hammocks  are  usually  swung  on  the  verandahs  or 
under  the  wide  spreading  live-oaks.  In  the  rear  of  these  para- 
disical retreats  are  generally  vegetable  gardens  and  vineyards, 
the  latter  producing  a  greenish  thick  skinned  grape,  called 
" Scuppernong,''  from  Avhich  an  excellent  wine  is  made.  At 
different  points  along  the  sea-coast,  which  is  generally  called 
by  the  inhabitants,  the  "Lahe  Coast  (from  the  fact  that  the 
Sound  resembles  a  lake),  are  way  stations  at  which  the  express 
does  not  stop. 

Mississippi  City.  (72  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  This 
station  is  but  a  city  on  paper,  its  only  buildings  being 
a  court-house,  a  jail  and  a  few  residences.  A  break  in  the 
forest  enables  the  traveler  to  see  Cat  Island,  ten  miles  distant, 
a  low  sandy  island— with  a  conical  sand  hill  on  its  East  end, 
forty  feet  high,  which  has  been  thrown  up  by  the  winds  of  the 
Gulf.  This  island  is  inhabited  and  is  used  as  a  cattle  farm. 
On  the  "West  end  is  a  light-house,  with  a  revolving  white  light. 
The  island  was  named  by  the  French,  from  the  fact  that  on 
landing  there  they  found  a  great  number  of  coons,  which  they 
mistook  for  a  species  of  cat. 

GuLPPORT.     (69  miles  from  New  Orleans.)     Hotel,  Great 


20  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Southern.  The  junction  of  the  Gulf  &  Ship  Island  Railroad, 
which  extends  to  Jackson,  Miss.,  a  distance  of  160  miles 
through  a  pine  country.  Deep  water  has  been  obtained  and 
the  town  promises  to  become  a  big  port  in  the  future. 

Pass  Christian.  (59  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  next 
important  station  is  Pass  Christian  (pronounced  Christy- Ann) 
a  well  settled  place  with  handsome  villas,  the  Summer  retreat 
of  the  wealthy  American  familes  of  New  Orleans.  Hotels: 
Mexican  Gulf  Hotel,  on  the  Beach;  terms  moderate— first-class 
hotel.  Omnibus  from  station  —  charges  for  conveyances 
reasonable.  Sail  boats  and  skiffs  to  be  had  at  reasonable  rates. 
Fishing  off  the  islands  and  banks  at  certain  tides  is  excellent. 
Oysters  abundant.  In  Winter  deer  and  wild  ducks  abound. 
Shell  road  on  the  beach  is  six  miles  long.  A  cool  Summer  re- 
treat and  in  Winter  much  resorted  to  by  invalids  from  the 
North  and  West.  The  bracing  salt  air  of  the  Gulf  and  the 
odor  of  the  fragrant  pine  forests  are  considered  highly  beneri- 
cial  to  persons  with  weak  lungs,  and  the  clear  atmosphere 
renders  it  a  pleasant  Winter  resort.  Stores,  physicians,  and 
also  churches  of  all  denominations. 

Bay  St.  Louis.  (Bridge.)  Two  miles  beyond  Pass  Chris- 
tian, the  Bay  St.  Louis  {pronounced  Saint  Lou-ee),  a  shallo^v 
bay  about  five  feet  deep  is  reached.  It  is  here  crossed  by  a 
wooden  railroad  bridge,  nearly  one  mile  long,  with  an  iron 
draw  bridge  over  the  channel  for  the  passage  of  schooners 
which  carry  lumber  and  charcoal  from  Wolf  river  and  other 
places  on  the  bay  to  New  Orleans.  Great  difficulty  was  expe- 
rienced in  building  the  bridges  of  this  road,  as  the  waters  of 
the  Gulf  are  infested  with  the  ^'Teredo/'  a  species  of  barnacb, 
which  fastens  itself  to  wood  under  the  water  and  bores  into  it 
until  it  becomes  honey-combed.  The  noise  made  by  the  Teredo 
boring  can  be  heard  distinctly  by  lying  down  on  the  wharf, 
or  in  the  bottom  of  a  boat.  Sheathing  the  piles  with  copper 
was  tried  with  some  success,  but  finally  it  was  determined  to 
try  the  experiment  of  soaking  the  piles  in  creosote  and  large 
works  for  the  purpose  were  erected  at  West  Paseagoula.  A 
second  danger  now  presented  itself.  The  wood,  so  prepared, 
turned  out  to  be  very  inflammable  and  great  care  has  to  be 
exercised  to  protect  the  bridges.  In  1879,  the  Bay  of  St.  Louis 
bridge  caught  fire  from  the  spark  of  a  locomotive,  and,  owing 
to  a  high  wind  prevailing,  the  structure  was  soon  destroyed. 


Routes  to  New  Orleans.  21 

the  creosoted  piles  burning  like  torches  of  fat  pine.  Great 
vigilance  is  necessary  and  as  soon  as  a  train  passes  over  the 
bridge,  night  or  day,  it  is  the  duty  of  a  watchman  to  follow  it 
and  to  carefully  examine  all  parts  of  the  structure.  In  cross- 
ing this  bridge  a  fine  view  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  is  obtained 
from  the  cars  and  a  delightful  soft  breeze  from  the  South 
usually  prevails.  In  the  distance  (on  the  left),  when  the 
weather  is  clear,  Cat  Island  is  seen,  fifteen  miles  oft'.  At  night 
its  revolving  white  light  is  visible  and  near  by  is  Pass  Marian 's 
(pronounced  Mary-ann)  light  on  Merritt's  shell  bank,  distant 
eight  miles.  This  light,  formerly  on  a  light-ship,  now  a  wreck 
near  the  bridge,  is  built  on  iron  screw  piles  driven  into  the 
hard  shell  bank.  On  approaching  the  shore  {on  left  side)  the 
traveler's  attention  is  attracted  to  the  numerous  little  bath 
houses  and  wharves.  The  bathing  along  this  coast  is  what  is 
called  still  water  bathing,  as  there  is  no  surf  except  during 
storms.  The  upper  parts  of  the  bath  houses  are  fitted  up  as 
dressing-rooms,  and  stair-cases  in  the  floors  give  access  to  the 
water  below.  The  usual  hour  for  bathing  is  noon,  the  waters 
being  tepid.  Owing  to  the  extreme  heat  of  the  sun,  bathers 
rarely  venture  from  beneath  the  bath  houses  unless  for  a 
swim.  Near  the  channel  the  space  below  some  bath  houses  is 
enclosed  with  small  piles,  driven  close  together,  to  prevent 
sharks  (which  abound  in  these  waters),  from  entering.  The 
railroad  rack  crosses  the  main  shell  drive  {o7i  the  left),  afford- 
ing a  good  idea  of  the  watering  places  of  this  coast  with  their 
little  Summer  houses,  baths  and  wharves. 

Bay  St.  Louis.  (53  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  town  of 
Bay  St.  Louis,  sometimes  called  Shieldsboro,  after  a  gallant 
officer  of  the  U.  S.  Navy,  who,  in  1814,  captured  several  British 
boats  off  Chandeleur  islands,  is  a  settlement  extending  about 
twelve  miles  along  this  coast.  It  is  the  usual  Summer  resort 
of  the  Creole  families  of  New  Orleans,  who  possess  elegant  res- 
idences here.  Hotels :  Pickwick,  Clifton,  small  but  comfortable. 
Omnibuses  from  the  station  to  all  points  up  and  down  the 
bay.  Conveyance  charges  very  reasonable.  Residences  (fur- 
nished) can  be  hired  from  $200.00  upwards  for  the  season,  ac- 
cording to  their  size  and  accommodations.  Season  May  1st  to 
October  1st.  Several  stores  and  churches.  Male  and  female 
academies  under  the  direction  of  religious  orders  of  the 
Catholic  Church.     Sail  boats  and  skiffs  can  be  hired  at  very 


22  New  Orleans  Guide. 

reasonable  rates.     Shell  road  twelve  miles  long.     As  at  Pass 
Christian,  many  strangers  winter  at  this  point. 

Look  Out  Station.  (36  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  After 
leaving  Bay  St.  Louis  the  road  continues  on  through  a  piney 
woods  region  with  its  red,  yellowish  barren  soil,  until,  at  Look 
Out  Station,  it  reaches  the  rich,  alluvial  bottom  lands  of  Pearl 
River.  During  the  war  of  1814,  the  British  fleet  was  anchored 
off  this  place  and  established  a  signal  station  here,  hence  the 
name  given  to  it  of  "  English  Look  Out. ' '  Pearl  River  forms 
the  Eastern  boundary  of  Louisiana,  and  the  river,  above 
this  station,  divides  itself  into  the  East  and  West  Pearl. 
West  Pearl  flows  into  the  Rigolets  and  East  Pearl  flows  by 
this  station  and  empties  into  Lake  Borgne,  one  mile  distant. 
This  lake,  an  arm  of  the  Gulf,  derived  its  name  {pronounced 
Born)  from  the  French  word  ^'horgne''  meaning  incompletes 
or  deformed,  as  it  is  not  entirely  surrounded  by  land,  but  has 
one  side  open  to  the  sea.  The  East  Pearl  is  crossed  by  a 
bridge,  the  centre  of  which  is  the  Louisiana  boundary  lino, 
and,  after  a  short  run  through  the  swamp,  the  Rigolets  are 
reached.  At  various  points  in  these  marshes  are  elegant  club 
houses  used  for  shooting  and  fishing  parties  during  the  Winter 
and  Summer. 

Rigolets.  (32  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  Rigolets  {pro- 
nounced hy  the  natives,  Rigo-leese)  is  a  deep  and  wide  stream 
connecting  lakes  Pontchartrain  and  Borgne.  It  is  crossed  by 
a  fine  iron  bridge  (recently  built  at  a  great  cost),  in  the  centre 
of  which  is  a  draw  to  let  vessels  pass.  On  the  left,  as  you 
cross.  Lake  Borgne  is  seen.  On  the  right,  is  the  mouth  of  the 
West  Pearl,  in  the  distance  Fort  Pike,  a  large  casemated  work, 
now  abandoned,  and  beyond  is  Lake  Pontchartrain.  The  rail- 
road continues  on  through  a  dense  swamp  in  which  alligators 
and  wild  fowls  abound.  Alongside  of  the  track,  in  the  ditches, 
the  noise  of  the  passing  train  often  causes  the  alligator  to  swim 
away  in  haste.  Alligators  love  to  bask  in  the  sun  and  the  trav- 
eler is  liable  to  mistake  one  of  them  one  of  them  for  an  old  log, 
so  close  is  the  resemblance.  Lake  Catherine,  an  open  sheet  of 
water  on  the  right,  is  passed  and  also  several  bayous,  great 
resorts  for  hunters  and  fishermen  from  the  city. 

Chef  Menteur.  (21  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  next 
bridge  is  that  over  Chef  Menteur  {pronounced  Sheff  Mon-tur), 


LOUISIANA  STATE  FLAG. 


i 


24  New  Orleans  GulDfi. 

a  narrow,  but  deep  stream  connecting  Lakes  Pontehartrain  and 
Borgne,  and  named  from  the  circumstance,  that,  in  former 
times,  the  Choctaw  Indians  expelled  from  their  tribe  one  of 
their  chiefs,  who  was  a  great  liar.  This  chief  took  up  his  abode 
on  a  point  near  the  head  of  the  Pass,  and  to  this  day,  this 
point  and  Pass  have  continued  to  be  known  as  Chef  Menteur 
(or  lying  chief.)  On  the  right  of  the  track  a  few  yards  distant 
is  Fort  McComb,  a  small  abandoned  work  which  commands  the 
stream.  The  railroad  now  crosses  a  vast  trembling  prairie 
and  finally  reaches  firm  land  at  Michaud's,  a  small  station 
surrounded  by  large  cypress  trees,  covered  with  gray  Spanish 
moss,  a  parasitical  growth.  This  moss,  which  is  gray  and  of 
a  velvety  softness,  is  gathered  with  long  poles  and  cured  by 
drying  in  stacks,  or  in  water.  When  it  turns  black,  it  is  hung 
up  to  dry  and  becomes  crisp.  It  is  then  ready  for  the  market, 
and  is  bought  by  upholsterers  and  mattress  makers  to  take  the 
place  of  hair  stuffing.  The  route,  continuing  on  through  small 
fields  of  sugar  cane  and  vegetable  gardens,  crosses  the  North 
Eastern  Railroad  track  and  finally  enters  the  city  of  New 
Orleans  in  the  rear  by  Elysian  Fields  street,  meeting  a  small 
railroad  line  that  runs  to  Lake  Pontehartrain.  At  the  head  of 
Elysian  Fields  street,  the  Mississippi  river  is  reached  and  a 
stop  is  made  at  the  Southern  Pacific  depot.  Continuing  on  up 
the  river  bank,  the  U.  S.  Mint  is  passed  on  the  right.  Two 
squares  further  the  French  Market  is  passed.  On  the  right, 
Jackson  Square,  with  the  old  Cathedral.  Continuing  still 
further,  on  the  left,  the  landing  place  of  the  New  York  steam- 
ers is  passed,  then  the  Sugar  Landing,  the  Cotton  Landing, 
and  after  passing  through  a  street  of  sheds,  built  for  storing 
sugar,  the  train  halts  at  the  head  of  Canal  street,  the  principal 
avenue  of  the  city.  Street  cars  in  front  of  stations;  fare  5 
cents.  Ofnnihuses  and  carriages  meet  all  trains.  {See  hack 
tariff.) 

MISSISSIPPI   VALLEY   ROUTE. 

The  Yazoo  and  Mississippi  Valley  Railroad,  commonly 
known  as  the  Mississippi  Valley  Railroad,  passes  through  the 
Yazoo  Valley,  celebrated  as  the  region  where  the  cotton  plant 
attains  its  greatest  perfection.  Washington  County,  Miss., 
Rolling  Fork  and  Deer  Creek  country  are  covered  with  exten- 
sive cotton  plantations,  which  yield  annually  enormous  crops 
of  cotton.     After  leaving  Vicksburg,  the  road  passes  through 


26  New  Orleans  Guide. 

the  hill  counties  of  Mississippi,  in  the  rear  of  Natchez  and 
then  enters  Louisiana. 

Wilson.  (122  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  Wilson,  a  thrivinj^ 
new  town,  is  named  after  the  projector  of  this  road,  Mr.  R.  T. 
Wilson,  of  New  York ;  it  is  destined  to  be  an  important  point 
of  this  railroad  as  the  tributary  country  is  rich  and  well  set- 
tled. 

Baton  Rouge.  (89  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  Baton 
Rouge,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Louisiana,  is  a  thriving 
town  of  11,269  residents,  situated  on  a  bluff  on  the  Mississippi 
river,  the  last  high  land,  as  from  this  point  southward  all  the 
land  is  alluvial.  The  name  of  Baton  Rouge  {literally  "Bed 
Stick'')  was  derived  from  the  fact,  that  a  huge  red  cypress 
tree  stood  on  the  river  bank  and  was  for  years  a  prominent 
landmark.  The  railroad  station  is  on  the  river  bank  and  near 
the  State  Capitol.  The  Capitol  is  a  large  Norman  Gothie 
building  and  contains  the  Senate  Chamber  and  the  House  of 
Representatives,  also  the  Governor's  Chamber  and  the  various 
offices  of  the  State.  In  the  Senate  Chamber  is  the  large  paint- 
ing by  Lamy  representing  the  battle  of  New  Orleans,  presented 
to  the  State  by  W.  W.  Corcoran,  the  Washington  philanthro- 
pist. This  picture,  which  is  a  work  of  great  merit,  represents 
the  interior  of  the  American  lines  and  it  is  to  be  regretted  that 
it  has  not  a  better  light  and  is  not  placed  in  a  position 
more  accessible  to  strangers.  Baton  Rouge  contains  many  of 
the  State  Institutions;  the  State  Penitentiary  is  located  here. 
Above  the  city  are  the  former  U.  S.  Barracks  and  Arsenal, 
built  on  the  site  of  the  old  Spanish  Fort,  and  is  used  by  the 
Louisiana  State  University,  a  large  and  flourishing  military 
college.  This  Fort  was  the  last  stronghold  of  the  Spanish  in 
Louisiana,  and  owing  to  a  doubt  about  the  exact  boundaries 
of  Louisiana,  as  defined  by  the  treaty  of  cession,  was  not  sur- 
rendered to  the  French  and  Americans,  but  the  whole  of  these 
parishes  being  thoroughly  American,  the  people  rose  in  revo- 
lution and  attacked  the  Fort.  The  Spaniards  held  out  fighting 
bravely,  and  Carlos  de  Grandpre,  their  youthful  commander, 
fell  at  the  head  of  his  men,  sword  in  hand.  Their  Fort  taken, 
the  Spaniards  retreated  across  the  country  to  Pensacola,  Fla., 
at  that  time  the  headquarters  of  the  Spanish  troops. 

St.  Gabriel.  (75  miles  from  New  Orleans.)    The  road,  after 


28  New  Orleans  Guide. 

leaving  Baton  Rouge,  descends  to  the  alluvial  lands  and  is 
soon  running  behind  the  high  levees  of  the  river  and  through 
large  fields  of  sugar  cane.  (See  Sugar  Trade.)  At  St.  Gabrie'. 
it  reaches  many  large  rice  and  sugar  plantations. 

BuRNSiDE.  (61  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  magnificent 
plantations  near  this  station  belonged  formerly  to  the  estate 
of  the  late  John  Burnside,  the  sugar  king  of  the  United  States, 
who  died  a  few  years  ago,  leaving  nine  large  sugar  plantations, 
all  in  operation  and  yielding  fine  crops. 

Convent.  (50  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  At  the  Convent 
station  are  located  the  Jefferson  College,  conducted  by  the 
Fathers  of  the  Marist  Order,  and  the  Convent  of  the  Sacred 
Heart.  In  the'  vicinity  are  large  plantations  and  also  small 
tobacco  farms,  which  produce  the  famous  perique,  a  strong, 
black,  pungent  tobacco.  It  is  nuich  prized  by  smokers,  is  cul- 
tivated with  great  care  and  much  time  is  taken  in  preparing  it 
for  market,  by  putting  it  through  presses  and  pressing  it  into 
' '  carrots. ' ' 

Laplace.  (30  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  Near  this  point  the 
bed  of  the  famous  Bonnet  Carre  crevasse  is  passed,  which  is 
noticed,  as  the  land  is  cut  off  by  deep  gullies.  Here  the  river 
has  broken  through  repeatedly  and,  with  a  bound,  swept 
across  the  seven  miles  of  prairie  to  Lake  Pontchartrain  and 
thence  to  the  sea. 

Kenner.  (10  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  Junction  of  the 
Illinois  Central  Railroad.  This  railroad  here  leaves  the  river 
bank  and,  after  passing  through  fortifications  erected  during 
the  late  war,  enters  the  swamp  in  the  rear  of  the  city  of  New 
Orleans.  The  train  then  enters  the  Howard  avenue  depot, 
half  a  mile  from  Canal  street.  Omnibuses  and  carriages  meet 
all  trains.    See  Hack  tariff. 

QUEEN  AND  CRESCENT  ROUTE. 

The  ''Queen  and  Crescent  Route,"  also  called  the  "North 
Eastern  Road,"  is  the  direct  route  from  Cincinnati,  ''the 
Queen  City  of  the  West,"  to  New  Orleans,  ''the  Crescent 
City ' '  of  the  South.  Owing  to  the  good  condition  of  the  road, 
very  fast  time  is  often  made.  On  April  20th,  21st,  1884,  a 
special  train  made  the  run  from  Cincinnati  to  New  Orleans, 


STATE  SEAL. 


30  New  Orleans  Guide. 

827  miles,  in  23  hours  and  20  minutes,  or,  if  allowance  is  made 
for  stops  necessary  to  the  care  and  safety  of  the  train,  the 
actual  running  time  was  19  hours  and  1  minute. 

Meridian,  Miss.  (196  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  town 
of  Meridian  has  a  population  of  14,050,  and  is  an  important 
railroad  centre.  From  this  point  roads  diverge  to  Mobile, 
Jackson  and  Vicksburg,  to  Selma  and  northward  to  Columbus, 
Miss.  Meridian  is  a  great  cotton  shipping  point  which  makes 
the  town  very  lively  during  the  Winter  season  and  the  place  is 
building  up  very  fast. 

Enterprise  (180  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  North 
Eastern  Railroad  and  the  Mobile  and  Ohio  Railroad  her=^ 
diverge,  the  latter  going  towards  Mobile,  Ala. 

Laurel.  (140  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  A  new  town  set- 
tled by  Western  people  and  thriving  with  lumber,  cotton  and 
other  industries. 

Ellisville.  "(133  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  A  small  ship- 
ping point  for  the  surrounding  country. 

Hattiesburg  (111  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  One  of  the 
principal  new  towns  on  the  railroad  and  destined  to  be  an  im- 
portant shipping  point  for  the  surrounding  country. 

PoPLARViLLE.  (71  miUs  from  New  Orleans.)  A  prominent 
station  on  this  road  and  rapidly  growing. 

Slidell.  (29  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  This  small  place, 
with  a  large  brick  making  plant,  is  named  after  Slidell,  the 
Louisiana  Senator,  who  was  sent  to  Paris  as  Minister  for  the 
Southern  Confederacy  and  was  forcibly  taken  from  the 
steamer  ' '  Trent ' '  by  Admiral  Wilkes.  At  this  point  the  land 
gradually  slopes  towards  Lake  Pontchartrain  and  the  traveler 
is  soon  rolling  over  the  great  bridge. 

Pontchartrain  Bridge.  The  bridge,  or  trestle  work,  across 
Lake  Pontchartrain  is  one  of  the  longest  bridges  in  the  world, 
being  30,706  feet  long  (5.82  miles),  of  which  the  two  draw- 
bridges are  each  250  feet.  This  great  work  was  built  of  creo- 
soted  lumber  and  the  whole  is  constructed  in  a  most  substantial 
manner,  so  much  so  that  in  1884,  a  special  train  made  the  dis- 
tance from  Slidell  to  New   Orleans,   twenty-nine  miles,   in 


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32  New  Orleans  Guide. 

thirty-three  minutes.  The  lake  is  from  three  to  fifteen  feet 
deep  and  is  navigated  by  schooners  and  other  small  crafts, 
which  bring  to  New  Orleans  cargoes  of  lumber,  sand,  bricks, 
rosin,  etc.,  from  the  shores  of  the  various  streams  that  flow 
into  it  on  the  North. 

South  Point.  (18  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  shore  is 
reached  near  Pointe  Aux  Herbes  and  the  soil  here  is  very 
marshy.  The  railroad  follows  the  lake  shore  {lake  on  the 
right)  and  suddenly  comes  towards  the  city,  across  the  L.  &  N. 
R.  R.  tracks  from  Mobile,  Ala.,  and  then,  by  a  direct  line, 
reaches  the  lower  part  of  the  city  and  stops  at  the  station  on 
the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  river.  Street  cars  near  the  station 
to  Canal  street.  Fare,  5  cents.  Omnihus  and  carriages  meet 
all  trains.    See  Hack  Tariff. 

SOUTHERN  PACIFIC  ROUTE. 

The  traveler  approaching  New  Orleans  from  Texas  by  this 
route,  sometimes  called  "The  Star  and  Crescent  Route,*' 
crosses  the  Atchafalaya  at  Morgan  City. 

Morgan  City.  (80  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  town  of 
Morgan  City,  formerly  called  Brashear  City,  is  situated  on  th(^ 
Atchafalaya  river.  The  route  of  this  railroad  runs  through 
deep  swamps,  but  at  some  distance  from  the  line  large  sugar 
plantations  are  cultivated. 

ScHRiEVER.  (55  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  At  this  station 
there  are  branch  lines  to  Houma,  fifteen  miles;  Thibodeaux, 
three  miles,  and  Napoleonville,  twenty-three  miles.  Terrebonne 
parish  produces  large  crops  of  sugar,  and  its  lands  are  consid- 
ered very  fertile.  Thibodeaux,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  La- 
fourche, is  a  large  town  and  contains  several  churches  and 
public  buildings. 

Lafourche.  (52  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  At  Lafourche 
crossing  the  railroad  crosses  the  Bayou  Lafourche,  an  outlet 
of  the  Mississippi. 

BouTTE.  (24  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  At  Boutte  Station 
the  railroad  track  is  within  two  miles  of  the  Mississippi  river. 

Salix.  (19  miles  from  New  Orlearis.)  At  this  point  the 
railroad  runs  parallel  with  the  river  for  a  long  distance, 


34  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Gretna.  (3  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  Before  reaching 
Gretna,  a  suWrb  of  New  Orleans,  the  railroad  runs  along  the 
river  bank,  through  sugar  plantations  and  market  gardens 
and  {from  the  left  side  of  the  train)  the  first  view  of  the  city  is 
obtained.  Algiers,  the  town  opposite  New  Orleans,  and  one  of 
its  wards,  is  soon  reached  and  the  depot  is  entered.  Passen- 
gers take  the  railroad  ferry  and  land  at  the  head  of  Esplanade 
street,  near  the  French  Market  and  the  U.  S.  Mint.  Street 
cars  to  Canal  street,  5  cents.  Omnibuses  and  carriages  meet 
all  trains.    See  Hack  tariff. 

TEXAS   PACIFIC   ROUTE. 

The  New  Orleans  Pacific  Railroad  is  a  portion  of  the  Gould 
system  of  railroads.  Commencing  at  Marshall,  Texas,  it  strikt^s 
the  Red  River  at  Shreveport  (367  miles  from  New  Orleans) 
and  then  follows  the  valley  of  the  Red  River,  via  Alexandria, 
to  the  Atchafalaya;  thence  to  the  Mississippi  and  along  the 
right  bank  of  it  to  New  Orleans. 

Alexandria,  La.  (193  miles  from  New  Orleaiis.)  Alex- 
andria is  a  pretty  little  city  in  the  interior  of  Louisiana,  the 
junction  of  lines  to  Opelousas,  Monroe  and  Lake  Charles,  so  it 
will  become  a  railroad  centre.  The  country  surrounding  is 
very  fertile,  yields  good  crops  of  sugar  and  cotton. 

Cheneyville.  (169  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  Cheneyville 
is  the  junction  of  Morgan's  Louisiana  and  Texas  Railroad, 
which  here  leads  {to  the  right)  to  Opelousas,  the  Teche  coun- 
try and  New  Orleans. 

Melville.  (128  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  Atchafalaya 
is  a  deep  and  swift  branch  of  the  Mississippi  River,  across 
which  this  railroad  company  has  built,  with  much  difficulty 
and  expense,  a  large  bridge. 

Baton  Rouge  Junction.  (89  miles  from  New  Orleans.) 
Junction  Station.  Branch  road  to  Baton  Rouge  the  capital  of 
Louisiana,  seven  miles  distant,  and  the  junction  of  the  rail- 
road to  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

Plaquemine  (84  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  Plaquemine 
(French  word  signifying  ''persimmon'^)  is  a  thriving  town, 
being  the  centre  of  a  large  sugar  district  and  situated  on  the 
Mississippi  and  Bayou  Plaquemine.     Just  before  the  train 


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36  New  Orleans  Guide. 

reaches  the  station,  the  bridge  over  Bayou  Plaquemine  is 
crossed.  As  the  mouth  of  Red  River,  which  empties  into  the 
Mississippi,  is  gradually  being  closed  by  the  sediment  deposit 
of  that  stream,  the  United  States  have  put  a  lock  in  Bayou 
Plaquemine,  so  that  steamboats  can  pass  through  Bayou  Pla- 
quemine into  the  Atchafalaya  and  thence  into  Red  River. 

DoNALDSONViLLE.  (64  miUs  fvom  New  Orleans.)  Donald- 
sonville  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Bayou  Lafourche  and 
the  Mississippi  River,  and  also  of  a  branch  railroad  to  Thibo- 
deaux,  28  miles.  This  town  is  in  the  centre  of  a  prosper- 
ous sugar  planting  district  and  does  a  thriving  business.  At 
one  time  it  was  the  capital  of  the  State.  Bayou  Lafourche 
(French  word  meaning  ^'Forking")  is  one  of  the  outlets  of  the 
Mississippi  River  and  flows  to  the  sea  through  a  fertile  sugar 
producing  country. 

St.  Charles.  (25  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  road  con- 
tinues to  pass  parallel  to  the  Mississippi  River  through  miles 
and  miles  of  broad  fields  producing  fine  crops  of  cane  and  rice. 
The  tall  chimneys  of  the  sugar  houses  loom  up  on  all  sides. 
The  train,  after  alternately  rushing  through  a  field  of  sugar 
cane  or  darting  through  a  tangled  swamp  reaches  Gouldsboro, 
opposite  the  city  of  New  Orleans.  The  Ferry  soon  lands  the 
passenger  at  the  head  of  Terpsichore  Street.  Street  cars  one 
block  distant,  fare  5  cents.  Omnibus  and  carriages  meet  all 
trains.    See  Hack  Tariff. 


NEW   ORLEANS   &   ST.   LOUIS   SHORT   LINE   ROUTE. 

The  traveler  from  St.  Louis  crosses  Red  River  at  Torras 
(152  miles  from  New  Orleans).  A  fine  steel  bridge  over  Red 
River  and  passes  through  fine  plantations. 

Baton  Rouge  Junction.  (89  miles  from  New  Orleans.) 
The  road  here  joins  the  Texas  and  Pacific  line  from  Shreve- 
port  (236  miles).     See  Texas  and  Pacific  Route. 


RIVER   ROUTE. 

The  traveler,  on  descending  the  Mississippi  River  to  New 
Orleans,  usually  takes  a  boat  at  St.  Louis,  Memphis  or  Cairo 
and  passes  through  a  cotton  region  until  he  reaches  the  mouth 


CARONDELET  STREET. 


38  New  Orleans  Guide. 

of  Red  River,  below  which  point  sugar  cane  fields  make  their 
first  appearance. 

ViCKSBURG.  (355  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  This  city  is  the 
largest  town  in  Mississippi  (population  14,834)  and  is  situated 
on  a  high  bluff  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river.  A  few  years 
ago  the  main  channel  was  in  front  of  the  town,  but  the  river 
broke  through  at  the  point  where  General  Grant  started  to  dig 
a  canal  during  the  war  in  order  to  cut  off  Vicksburg,  and  made 
a  new  bed  for  itself.  This  left  the  town  on  a  side  stream,  which 
every  year  becomes  more  shallow  and,  in  course  of  time,  may 
become  a  lake.  There  is  a  large  business  done  at  Vicksburg, 
and  from  the  Yazoo  River  country,  a  few  miles  above,  large 
quantities  of  cotton  are  received.  General  Grant  attacked  the 
place  in  1863  and  besieged  it  for  several  months.  After  a  gal- 
lant defense,  during  which  the  place  was  nearly  pounded  to 
pieces  and  the  inhabitants  driven  to  seek  safety  in  caves  dug 
in  the  hills,  the  to^m  surrendered  to  the  Union  forces,  on  the 
4th  of  July,  1863. 

Natchez.  (265  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  town  of 
Natchez  (population  12,210)  is  situated  on  a  high  bluff  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Mississippi.  The  surrounding  country  pro- 
duces large  crops  of  cotton  and  the  planters  are  very  wealthy. 
Natchez-on-the-Hill  is  a  pretty  town,  and  its  suburbs  contain 
magnificent  residences,  belonging  to  planters  owning  large 
cotton  estates  in  this  vicinity. 

Mouth  of  Red  River.  (200  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The 
mouth  of  Red  River,  a  very  turbulent  and  muddy  stream,  is 
but  a  short  distance  from  the  Atchafalaya  River.  Below  this 
point  the  bright  green  cane  fields  appear  for  the  first  time  and 
the  traveller  enters  the  sugar  region  of  Louisiana. 

Baton  Rouge.  (130  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  Baton  Rouge 
(in  French  ''Red  Stick"),  population  11,269,  is  the  capital 
of  the  State  of  Louisiana,  and  stands  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
river.  It  derives  its  name  from  a  huge  red  cj^press  tree  that 
formerly  stood  very  prominently  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  The 
bluff,  on  which  the  city  is  built,  is  the  nearest  high  land  to  the 
sea  in  the  Mississippi  Valley.  Below  and  opposite  the  lands 
are  alluvial  and  are  protected  by  a  system  of  dykes,  called 
levees.  The  State  Capitol,  destroyed  by  fire  during  the  war, 
has  been  rebuilt  and  crowns  the  bluff,  being  visible  for  miles. 


MISSISSIPPI  BIVEB  STEAMBOATS, 


40  New  Orleans  Guide. 

On  the  spot  where  the  old  Spanish  Fort  stood,  nestled  in  the 
trees,  are  the  old  U.  S.  Barracks  and  Arsenal,  now  used 
by  the  Louisiana  State  University,  a  large  and  flourishing 
military  college.  The  inhabitants  rebelled  against  the  Spanish 
authority  and  one  night  attacked  the  fort.  Carlos  de  Grandpre. 
a  young  Spanish  officer,  eighteen  years  of  age,  commanded  the 
fort  and  only  yielded  it  with  his  life.  At  Baton  Rouge  are 
located  the  Blind  Asylum,  the  State  Penitentiary,  and  other 
State  institutions. 

DoNALDSONViLLE.  (79  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The  town 
of  Donaldsonville  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Mississippi 
and  Bayou  Lafourche  (one  of  the  outlets  of  the  Mississippi), 
and  along  its  banks  are  located  many  fine  sugar  estates.  Don- 
aldsonville, once  the  capital  of  the  State,  has  several  fine  build- 
ings, and  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  an  extensive  and  highly 
productive  sugar  region,  embracing  some  of  the  finest  planta- 
tions in  the  world.  A  few  miles  below  here  (on  the  left  hank) 
are  the  estates  of  the  late  John  Burnside,  the  Sugar  King  of 
the  United  States.  Mr.  Burnside  owned  nine  large  plantations 
which  produced  large  crops  of  sugar.  For  one  of  these  places 
and  its  many  slaves,  he  paid  (before  the  war)  one  and  a  half 
million  dollars,  cash  down.  Donaldsonville  is  connected  with 
the  city  by  railroad. 

College  Point.  (61  miles  from  New  Orleajis.)  On  College 
Point,  fronting  the  river,  is  situated  the  large  college  con- 
ducted by  the  Marist  order.  Two  miles  above  is  the  Convent 
of  The  Sacred  Heart,  a  Catholic  female  educational  establish- 
ment, conducted  by  Nuns  of  the  Sacred  Heart  order.  Around 
College  Point,  the  celebrated  Perique,  a  kind  of  tobacco,  very 
strong  and  much  prized  by  smokers,  is  raised  and  prepared  for 
market  in  a  peculiar  manner  by  the  Acadian  farmers. 

Bonnet  Carre  Point.  (40  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The 
river  at  Bonnet  Carre  Point  makes  a  sharp  bend  around  the 
point,  which  derives  its  name  from  its  resembling  the  shape  of 
a  square  cap.  On  the  left  side  the  river  approaches  within 
seven  miles  of  Lake  Pontchartrain,  and,  without  doubt,  in 
early  times,  found  its  way  to  the  sea  by  that  route.  In  1871 
and  1874  overflows  (called  crevasses)  of  more  magnitude  than 
in  previous  years  occurred  here,  and  inundations  took  place. 
That  of  1874  was  very  destructive  and  the  water  spread  over 


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42  New  Orleans  Guide. 

the  country  above  and  below,  inundating  many  fine  planta- 
tions. The  river  broke  through  the  levee,  fifteen  feet  high, 
with  great  force,  making  a  report  as  loud  as  a  cannon,  the 
waters  pouring  through  the  opening  creating  a  roar  equal  to 
Niagara.  Attempts  were  made  to  stop  the  crevasse  by  the  use 
of  lumber  and  bags  filled  with  earth,  but  all  efforts  were  use- 
less. The  State  Board  of  Engineers,  in  1879,  built  a  dam 
across  the  crevasse  with  the  view  to  slacken  the  current  and  to 
cause  the  sediment  of  the  river  to  precipitate  itself  and  form 
the  foundation  for  the  new  levee. 

Red  Church.  (29  miles  from  Neiv  Oiieans.)  The  small  red 
church  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  is  a  very  prominent  land- 
mark on  the  river;  steamboatmen  calculate  the  speed  of  their 
boats  from  the  city  to  this  point.  It  is  also  noted  that  the 
Mississippi  here  attains  its  greatest  depth. 

Carrollton.  (9  miles  from  Neiu  Orleans.)  New  Orleans  is 
reached  at  Carrollton,  the  point  opposite,  which  is  called  "Nine 
Mile  Point,"  is  a  noted  landmark.  The  river  makes  a  long 
bend  below  Carrollton,  but  the  distance  by  land  to  the  city  is 
much  shorter.  Street  cars  from  Carrollton  to  the  city;  time, 
30  minutes ;  fare,  5  cents.  The  tourist  taking  a  position  on  the 
upper  deck  of  a  steamboat  has  a  fine  panoramic  view  of  the 
city,  which  lies  at  his  feet,  spread  out,  as  it  were,  on  a  table. 
After  passing  the  Audubon  Park,  and  along  the  river  front, 
lined  with  ships  and  steamers  from  all  parts  of  the  globe,  the 
head  of  Canal  street  is  reached  and  here  the  journey  is  at  an 
end.  The  centre  of  the  city  and  the  hotels  are  about  six  squares 
distant  from  the  landing.  Carriages  and  cabs  meet  all  boats. 
See  Hack  tariff.    Street  cars,  two  blocks  distant;  fare,  5  cents. 

SEA  ROUTE. 

The  traveller  reaching  New  Orleans  by  the  Sea  Route  enters 
the  Mississippi  River  by  South  Pass  through  the  Jetties.  (Seo 
Jetties.)  At  the  Jetties  is  situated  Eadsport  (116  miles  from 
New  Orleans),  and  at  this  point  are  located'the  works  of  the 
Jetty  company.  South  Pass  is  ten  miles  long,  very  straight, 
and  has  a  strong  current. 

Head  of  Passes.  (106  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  At  the 
head  of  the  Passes  or  Delta,  are  located  some  works  to  force  the 
current  to  flow  into  South  Pass.     The  river  at  this  point 


44  New  Orleans  Guide. 

divides  itself  into  three  passes,  forming  the  Delta  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi: Pass  a  rOutre  to  the  eastward;  Southwest  Pass  to 
the  westward,  and  between  them  South  Pass,  the  land  between 
the  two  outside  passes  and  the  sea  deriving  its  name  from  its 
shape,  resembling  he  Greek  letter  "Delta."  Previous  to  the 
improvement  of  the  South  Pass  all  vessels,  except  those  of  very 
light  draft,  used  the  Southwest  Pass.  The  ancient  town  of 
Balize,  situated  at  the  junction  of  Southeast  and  Northeast 
Passes,  (branches  of  Pass  a  I'Outre,)  so  far  inland,  was  at  the 
time  of  its  foundation  by  the  Spaniards,  directly  on  the  sea- 
shore, but  now  the  river  has  jettied  far  beyond. 

Quarantine  Station.  (90  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  AH 
vessels  have  to  stop  opposite  the  Quarantine  Station  for  in- 
spection. 

The  Forts.  {12  mUes  from  New  Orleans.)  On  the  left  bank 
of  the  river,  {right  hand  side  going  up  stream,)  is  Fort  St. 
Philip,  a  casemated  work,  and,  opposite,  on  the  other  bank, 
Fort  Jackson.  In  the  month  of  April,  1862,  Admiral  Farragut 
attacked  the  forts  and  during  the  night,  amidst  a  terrific  storm 
of  shot,  passed  the  forts  and  captured  New  Orleans. 

BuRAs  Settlement.  (68  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The 
lands  in  this  section  are  devoted  to  the  orange  culture,  and  on 
the  west  bank  large  orchards  are  seen. 

Pointe-a-la-Hache.  (45  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  The 
town  of  Pointe-a-la-Hache  is  a  small  place  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  river  and  derives  its  name  from  the  bend  of  the  river, 
making  the  point  resemble  the  head  of  a  hatchet,  and  the  name 
is  consequently  translated  as  Hatchet  Point. 

Jesuits^  Bend.  (28  miles  from  New  Orleans.)  In  Jesuits' 
Bend  the  plantations  are  large  and  very  fertile,  producing 
heavy  crops  of  sugar  and  rice.  Here  it  was  that  the  Jesuits 
first  planted  the  sugar  cane  in  Louisiana. 

English  Turn.  (  15  miles  from  New  Orlea7is.)  Before 
reaching  ' '  the  turn, "  as  it  is  commonly  called,  on  the  left  bank, 
are  the  splendid  sugar  plantations  of  Messrs.  Milliken  and 
Garr,  and,  on  the  right  bank,  the  fine  plantations  called  ' '  Belle- 
chasse"  and  "Concession." 

The  river  at  this  place,  Shingle  Point,  makes  a  sharp  turn, 


46  New  Orleans  Guide. 

and  sailing  vessels  experience  great  difficulty  in  making  head- 
way here.  The  great  number  of  sailing  vessels  wrecked  here  in 
former  times  gave  the  name  of  "the  graveyard"  to  the  willows 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  The  name  of  "English  Turn" 
or  ^'Detour  des  Anglais"  was  given  from  the  fact  that  a  short 
time  after  the  settlement  of  the  country  by  the  French,  the 
English  entered  the  river  with  several  ships  of  war  to  take 
possession.  They  were  informed  that  the  French  had  already 
done  so,  and  had  a  large  force  on  hand,  so  they  proceeded  no 
further  than  this  bend,  but  turned  about  and  put  to  sea  again 
in  a  hurry.  After  leaving  the  Turn,  and  going  a  few  miles  up, 
are  the  Chalmette  Railroad  terminals  (left  hank).  On  this 
spot  the  Battle  of  New  Orleans  was  fought,  Jan.  8,  1815.  (See 
Battle  of  New  Orleans.)  On  the  right  bank  the  United  States 
navy  yard  and  floating  dock,  the  second  largest  in  the  world. 
Proceeding  up  further,  the  Ursuline  Convent  on  the  left  bank 
is  a  prominent  building,  and  then  the  harbor  of  the  city  ap- 
pears. Jackson  Square  is  reached  and  at  this  place  the 
steamer  lands.  Carriages  and  cabs  are  waiting  (see  Hack 
Tariff).  Cars,  one  block  off,  to  Canal  street  {a  half  mile), 
fare  5  cents. 


Baggage.  47 


Baggage. 


The  New  Orleans  Transfer,  office  at  No.  840  Common  street, 
between  Carondelet  and  Baronne  streets.  Its  agents  pass 
through  all  railroad  trains  and  meet  all  steamers  approaching 
the  city.  They  will  check  and  deliver  your  baggage  promptly  on 
arrival  to  the  hotels  and  private  residences.  The  traveller  pays 
the  transfer  agent  and  exchanges  his  railroad  or  steamship 
checks  for  Transfer's  printed  receipt.  This  receipt  is  delivered 
to  the  driver  of  the  baggage  van  on  receipt  of  the  baggage. 
Parties  stopping  at  the  hotels  should  leave  the  Transfer  re- 
ceipts with  the  clerk  of  the  hotel. 

The  New  Orleans  Transfer  will  also  check  your  baggage  on 
departure  from  any  part  of  the  city  (hotels  or  residences) 
direct  to  destination,  including  all  points  in  the  United  States, 
Canada,  Cuba,  and  to  borders  in  Mexico,  and  points  reached 
by  the  United  Fruit  Company's  steamship  lines,  upon  presen- 
tation of  tickets  at  the  office,  otherwise  depot  claim  checks  are 
issued.  It  is  therefore  prudent  to  get  your  baggage  checked 
from  residence  to  avoid  the  confusion  around  the  depot  at 
train  time. 

All  baggage  left  at  the  depot  will  he  subjected  to  storage 
charges  for  each  piece  at  the  rate  of  25  cents  for  the  first 
twenty-four  hours  or  fraction  thereof,  and  10  cents  for  each 
succeeding  twenty- four  hours  or  fraction  thereof. 

New  Orleans  Transfer  Baggage  Rates  to  all  Points  in  the  City. 

Canal  street  to  Napoleon  avenue,  one  piece 50  cents 

Canal  street  to  Napoleon  avenue,  each  additional  piece 25  cents 

Canal  street  to  Napoleon  avenue,  four  or  more  pieces,  per  piece 25  cents 

Canal  street  to  Jourdan  avenue,  one  piece 50  cents 

Canal  street  to  Jourdan  avenue,  each  additional  piece .....25  cents 

Above  Napoleon  avenue  and  below  Jourdan  avenue,  one  piece.  ...    .75  cents 
Above  Napoleon  avenue  and  below  Jourdan  avenue,  two  or  more 

pieces,    per    piece 50  cents 

Special  rates  made  as  to  quantity  and  time.  Baggage  called 
for  and  transferred  from  house  to  house  by  orders  left  at  the 
office,  or  by  'phones  817. 

Coaches  of  the  New  Orleans  Transfer  meet  all  trains.  Fare, 
25  cents  to  hotels  and  vicinity. 


48  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Table  of  Distances. 

Compiled  for  the  Ouide  hij  L.  H.  Pille,  formerly  Deputy  City  Surveyor. 


The  blocks,  or  squares,  vary  in  length,  but  generally  a  block  measures  320 
feet,  making  about  13  blocks  or  squares  to  the  mile. 

From  Canal  Street  Up  St.  Charles  Street  and  Avenue — • 

To   Lee    Place    (3716    feet) 0.70  miles 

To  Jackson  avenue    1.47  miles 

To   Washington   Avenue    1.88  miles 

To   Louisiana   Avenue    2.24  miles 

To    Napoleon    avenue     2.93  miles 

To  lower  corner  of   I*ark    4.15  miles 

To    Carrollton     4.70  miles 

From  Cana  Street  Up  Camp  or  Magazine  Street — 

To  Julia    street    0.65  miles 

To  Felicity   Road    1.41  miles 

To  Jackson   street    1.70  miles 

To  Washington    avenue     2.16  miles 

To  Louisiana  avenue 2.54  miles 

To  Napoleonville   avenue    3.3©  miles 

To  the  Park    4.84  miles 

From  Canal  Street  Down  Chartres  Street — 

To    Esplanade    street    0.97  miles 

To   Northeastern    Railroad    l^epot    1.62  miles 

From   Head  of  Canal  Street  Towards  Lake — 

To    Rampart    street     0.70  miles 

To    Claiborne    street     1.09  miles 

To    Broad    street    1.82  miles 

To  Metairie  Ridge  Road    3.60  miles 

To  Lake   (West  End)  via  Shellroad   6.61  miles 

From  Canal  and  Royal  Streets  via  Rampart  and  Esplanade  Avenues — 
To   Fair  Grounds   Race   Course    4.00  miles 

From  Head  of  Canal  Street  Along  River  Bank — • 

To   Ursuline   Convent    2.75  miles 

To   Jackson   Barracks    3.10  miles 

Width  of  Mississippi  River — 

From  bank  opposite  Jackson  Square  to  Algiers  Point  (formerly 

called  Slaughter  House  Point),  2250  feet,  equivalent  to 0.42  miles 


Hack  and  Cab  Tariff.  49 

% 

Hack  and  Cab  Tariff. 

City  Ordinance  No.  1183,  N.  C.  S.,  adopted  April  4,  1902. 


Carriages  and  cabs  meet  all  trains  and  boats  and  the  rates 
are  fixed  by  the  above  ordinance,  copy  of  which  must  be  posted 
in  each  vehicle,  and  the  driver  mnst  wear  on  the  outside  front 
of  his  coat  a  numbered  badge.  Violations  of  the  ordinance  are 
punished  by  fine  and  imprisonment,  and  complaints  must  be 
made  at  the  Mayor's  office,  City  Hall,  or  to  the  Chief  of  Police. 

All  depots  are  on  the  city  side  of  the  river,  hut  if  a  carriage 
or  cah  has  to  cross  the  river  the  passenger  or  passengers  shall 
pay  the  ferriage  to  or  from  any  hotel  and  the  following  depots 
or  steamboat  landings,  between  Jidia  and  St.  Louis  streets. 
Hand  baggage  free.  Trunks  25  cents  each,  unless  otherwise 
agreed  upon. 

Union  Station:   Illinois  Central  Railroad,  Mississippi  Valley 
Railroad,  Louisville  and  Nashville  Railroad,  50  cents  per  pas- 
senger, 
additional  half  mile  or  part  thereof,  50  cents. 

Texas  and  Pacific  Railroad,  Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  75 
cents  per  passenger. 

New  Orleans  and  Northeastern  Railroad,  75  cents  per  pas- 
senger. 

One  horse  cab  or  vehicle  (6  a,  m.  to  9  p.  m.)  :  One  passenger, 
one  mile  or  part  thereof,  50  cents ;  for  each  additional  passen- 
ger, 50  cents;  for  each  additional  half  mile  or  part  thereof, 
25  cents. 

Two-horse  carriage  or  vehicle  (6  a.  m.  to  9  p.  m.)  :  One  pas- 
senger, one  mile  or  part  thereof,  $1 ;  for  each  additional  pas- 
senger, 50  cents;  for  each  additional  half  mile  or  part  thereof, 
50  cents  per  passenger. 

Night  Rates— 9  P.  M.  to  6  A.  M. 

One-horse  cabs  or  vehicles:  One  passenger,  one  mile  or  part 
thereof,  75  cents ;  for  each  additional  passenger,  50  cents ;  for 
each  additional  half  mile  or  part  thereof,  50  cents. 


50  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Two-horse  carriages  or  vehicles:    One  passenger,  one  mile  or 
part  thereof,  $1 ;   for  each  additional  passenger,  $1 ;   for  each 
Children  under  12  years,  half  of  the  above  rates. 

Carriages  and  Other  Vehicles  by  the  Hour. 

Cah  or  carriage,  $1.50  for  the  first  hour  and  $1  for  each 
succeeding  hour  or  fractional  part  thereof  for  the  entire  cab 
or  carriage. 

For  distancs  in  th  city,  see  Tahle  of  Distances. 

Pleasure  Vehicles. 

Fine  carriages  for  driving  or  visiting  can  always  be  had  at 
Johnson's  Stables,  Magazine  and  Julia  streets,  or  Prytania  and 
Washington  avenues.     Carriages  first-class.    Rates  reasonable. 


52  New  Orleans  Guide. 


Hotels. 


New  St.  Charles  Hotel,  No.  215  St.  Charles  street.  One 
square  from  Canal  street.  465  rooms.  Elevators.  American 
plan :  $3.50  and  up.    European  plan :  Rooms  $1.50  and  up. 

Hotel  Grunewald,  No.  120  Baronne  street,  near  Canal  street. 
320  rooms.    Elevators.    European  plan :   Rooms  $1.00  and  up. 

Cosmopolitan  Hotel,  No.  128  Bourbon  street,  near  Canal 
street.  125  rooms.  Elevator.  European  plan:  Rooms  $1.50 
and  up. 

Commercial  Hotel,  No.  204  Royal  street,  corner  Custom- 
house street,  one  square  from  Canal  street.  170  rooms.  Eleva- 
tor.    European  plan :   Rooms  $1.00  and  up,  bath  included. 

Hotel  Denechaud,  No.  348  Carondelet  street,  four  squares 
from  Canal  street.  100  rooms.  Elevator.  American  plan: 
$2.00  per  day  and  up ;  European  plan :  Rooms  $1.00  and  up. 
French  cusine. 

Hotel  de  Louisiane,  No.  717  Customhouse  street,  one  square 
from  Canal  street.  50  rooms.  (In  the  old  Zacharie  mansion.) 
Celebrated  for  its  fine  French  and  Creole  cusine.  European 
plan :   Rooms  50  cents  and  up,  bath  included. 

Park  Vieiv  Hotel,  No.  618  Camp  street,  opposite  Lafayette 
Square,  five  squares  from  Canal  street.  50  rooms.  Elevator. 
American  plan:  $1.00  and  up;  European  plan:  Rooms  50 
cents  and  up,  bath  included. 

St.  Charles  Mansion,  No.  826  St.  Charles  street.  50  rooms. 
European  plan :   Rooms  $1.00  and  up. 

Fahacher's  Hotel,  No.  709  Customhouse  street.  European 
plan:  Rooms  75  cents  and  up,  including  bath. 


CAMP    STREET. 


54  New  Orleans  Guide. 


Accommodations. 


RESTAURANTS. 

Many  persons  who  live  in  furnished  rooms  take  their  meals 
at  restaurants,  or  have  them  sent,  especially  if  ladies,  to  their 
rooms.  Ladies  do  not  generally  dine  in  the  open  saloon  of  the 
restaurants,  except  during  the  Carnival  week,  when  there  is  a 
great  crowd.  Rooms  are  attached  to  all  restaurants  where 
ladies  may  dine  with  or  without  escorts.  At  all  these  places 
the  charges  are  a  la  car ^e— that  is,  each  dish  ordered  is  charged 
separately,  and  each  dish  called  for  is  only  sufficient  for  one 
person.  All  restaurants  in  the  city  take  boarders  by  the  month 
or  week,  and  two  meals  per  day  only  are  furnished.  No  particular 
hour  is  fixed  and  each  party  has  a  table  to  itself.  The  number 
of  dishes  ordered  is  not  restricted,  except  that  game,  or  other 
dishes,  the  first  of  the  season,  are  not  generally  served  without 
an  extra  charge.  Wine  is  cheap,  and  usually  the  price  of  board 
is  fixed  with  or  without  wine.  Hours  for  breakfast,  8  to  12  m.  j 
dinner,  3  to  7  p.  m.  The  restaurants  are  kept  by  Frenchmen 
and  in  the  French  style.  The  dishes  are  a  mixture  of  French 
and  Creole  cooking,  which  is  highly  seasoned  and  is  much 
appreciated  by  '^hon  vivants."  Strawberries  appear  in  the 
middle  of  winter,  but  come  into  season  in  March  and  last  until 
end  of  April.  Mespilus  plums  (Japanese  plums)  ripen  early 
in  the  Spring.  Dewberries  appear  in  April  and  last  about  three 
weeks.  Blackberries  ripen  about  June  and  remain  in  season 
until  July.  Peaches  make  their  appearance  in  May  and  last 
until  September.  Canteloupes  or  Musk-melons  and  Water- 
melons are  in  season  in  June.  Figs  make  their  appearance  in 
July,  and  last  six  weeks.  New  potatoes  and  green  peas  come  in 
during  February,  and  artichokes  in  April.  Wild  ducks,  snipe, 
woodcock  and  partridges  are  plentiful  in  the  winter  season. 
Rice  Birds,  Papabottes  and  other  birds  are  much  prized  by 
''gourmets.*'  Pompano,an  expensive  fish, is  the  fish  that  is  most 
prized.  Sheephead,  Red-fish,  Red-snappers,  Shrimp,  (from 
lake  and  river,)  are  excellent  fish.    Out  of  the  Crayfish  (pro- 


Accommodations.  55 

nounced  crawfish)  is  made  the  celebrated  ^'Bisque  Soup.'' 
Green  turtle  is  very  plentiful  and  can  always  be  had.  The 
restaurants  have  rooms  where  large  dinners  can  be  served  in 
elegant  style.  For  such  dinners,  special  arrangements  are 
made  in  advance  at  so  much  a  head.  At  the  Lake  Ends,  the 
termini  of  each  railroad  line,  are  excellent  restaurants, 
and  breakfast  or  dinner  parties  are  often  made  up  for  excur- 
sions to  these  resorts.  Begue's,  No.  823  Decateur  street,  is  a 
great  place  for  Bohemian  breakfasts  for  ladies  and  gentleman 
at  11  o'clock  ($1.00  including  wine).  As  there  is  always  a 
demand  for  seats  they  should  be  reserved  by  telephone.  (No. 
2996-32.) 

Boarding  Houses. 

All  through  the  city  are  scattered  innumerable  boarding 
houses,  at  which  the  prices  of  board  vary  from  twenty  dollars 
per  month  upwards,  according  to  location,  style  of  house,  and 
accommodation.  Board  is  payable  by  the  month  or  week, 
according  to  agreement.  In  the  newspapers  may  be  found 
advertisements  which  will  indicate  where  board  and  lodging 
may  be  obtained.  The  principal  streets  where  the  boarding 
houses  may  be  found  are  Camp  and  St.  Charles  streets  above 
Lafayette  Square,  Prytania  street,  Canal  street,  and  the  first 
block  on  Dauphine  street  from  Canal  street.  The  better  class 
of  the  houses  are  on  St.  Charles  avenue. 

Rooms. 

Rooms  and  suites  of  apartments  are  to  be  had  all  over  the 
city.  Many  persons,  especially  colored  women,  make  it  a  busi- 
ness to  keep  furnished  rooms  or  ''chambres  garnies/'  as  they 
are  called  here.  Prices  of  rooms,  lodging  only,  vary  from  $10 
per  month  upwards.  Gas  is  usually  an  extra  charge  and  some- 
times meals  will  be  furnished.  The  best  streets  are  Rampart, 
Canal,  University  Place  (between  Common  and  Canal  streets), 
the  lower  part  of  Royal  street,  Dauphine  street  (between 
Canal  and  Customhouse  streets),  Bourbon  street  (between 
Canal  and  St.  Louis  streets) .  Rooms  to  let  are  generally  indi- 
cated by  small  signs  hanging  from  the  galleries. 

Lunch  Houses. 

In  New  Orleans  all  the  bar-rooms,  or  coffee-houses,  as  they 
were  formerly  called,  are  a  combination  of  the  French  cafe  and 


56  New  Orleans  Guide. 

the  American  bar.  In  some  of  them  seats  were  provided,  but 
gradually  the  custom  of  taking  drinks  seated  has  fallen  into 
disuse.  The  saloons  are  very  handsomely  decorated  and  some 
provide  excellent  liquors.  The  price  of  drinks,  mixed  and 
plain,  is  10  or  15  cents.  At  nearly  all  these  establishments, 
between  half-past  eleven  and  one  o'clock,  free  lunches  are 
spread  for  those  who  patronize  the  bar.  These  lunches  consist 
of  soup,  fish,  meat,  vegetables,  salads,  etc.  Ladies  do  not 
resort  to  these  places,  but  at  Lopez',  on  Canal  street,  at  the 
Christian  Woman 's  Exchange,  corner  Camp  and  South  streets, 
and  McCloskey's,  807  Canal  street,  (cakes,  soda,  coffee  only,) 
excellent  lunches  can  be  had  at  reasonable  prices. 

Furnished  and  Unfurnished  Houses. 

Furnished  and  unfurnished  houses  can  be  rented  by  apply- 
ing to  the  several  Real  Estate  agents  in  the  city.  The  rents  vary 
according  to  the  house,  location  and  contents.  All  leases  are 
made  generally  to  date  from  October  1st  to  September  30th, 
but  sometimes  houses  can  be  hired  for  a  shorter  period  of  time. 
The  leases  are  always  in  a  printed  form  and  impose  certain 
obligations  on  tenats.  Rents  are  payable  monthly,  for 
which  payments  the  lessee  generally  furnishes  his  notes, 
which  are  identified  with  the  lease  and  are  made  payable  at 
some  bank  in  the  city.  Servants,  white  or  colored,  can  be  pro- 
cured through  advertising  in  the  want  columns  of  the  news- 
papers and  should  furnish  good  references.  Wages:  Cooks 
$10  to  $25 ;  Waiters  $15  to  $30 ;  Chambermaids  $10  to  $20. 
Milk,  bread  and  ice  are  delivered  at  the  house.  Groceries  can 
be  ordered  by  postal  card  or  telephone,  and  are  delivered  at 
the  house.  Wood  is  purchased  from  neighboring  wood  shops. 
Coal,  at  any  coal  merchant 's,  is  sold  at  so  much  per  barrel,  but 
in  not  less  quantities  than  a  cart-load  (ten  barrels).  Coke  is 
purchased  also  at  the  coal  merchant's,  at  35  to  45  cents  per 
barrel  in  loads  of  not  less  than  ten  barrels.  Gas  costs  $1.40  per 
thousand.  Application  for  gas  must  be  made  at  the  Gas  Office 
(corner  of  Baronne  and  Common  streets)  from  9  a.  m.  to  3  p. 
m.  and  a  deposit  of  $5  made  before  the  gas  is  turned  on.  When 
the  gas  is  cut  off,  the  deposit  is  returned  with  interest  added. 


COURTYARD  —  FRENCH    QUARTER. 


58  New  Orleans  Guide. 

RESTAURANTS. 

Antoine's,  No.  713  St.  Louis  street.  Celebrated  for  its  French 
and  Creole  cnsine  and  specialties. 

Cosmopolitan,  No.  124  Bourbon  street. 

La  Loiusiane  {Bezaudin's),  No.  717  Customhouse  street. 
French  cusine. 

Lamothe's,  No.  137  St.  Charles  street. 

Victor ^s,  No.  209  Bourbon  street. 

Denechaud's,  No.  348  Carondelet  street. 

Fahacher's,  No.  137  Royal  street. 

Brasco's,  No.  740  Gravier  street. 

Begue's,  No.  823  Decatur  street,  for  breakfast  only,  and  cel- 
ebrated as  one  of  the  resorts  of  gourmets  and  for  Bohemian 
breakfasts  (ladies  and  gentlemen)  daily  at  11  o'clock.  $1.00, 
including  wine.  Seats  have  to  be  retained  in  advance.  Tele- 
phone 2996-32. 

Christian  Woman's  Exchange,  Camp  and  South  street.s. 

BEER  SALOONS. 

Cosmopolitan,  No.  123  Royal  street. 
GoebeVs,  No.  106  Roj^al  street. 
Redwitz,  No.  632  Common  street. 

SALOONS. 

Ramos,  No.  306  Carondelet  street.  Celebrated  for  its  Gin 
Fizz. 

Sazarac,  No.  118  Royal  street.  Known  for  its  Sazarac  Cock- 
tails. 

Old  Absinthe  Room,  No,  238  Bourbon  street.  Famous  for  its 
Absinthe. 

Crescent  Hall,  No.  107  St.  Charles  street. 

CONFECTIONERS. 

Lopez,  No.  922  Canal  street.  Celebrated  for  chocolate  and 
French  patisserie. 

McCloskey's,  No.  807  Canal  street  and  320  St.  Charles  street. 
Famous  for  its  mead. 

Domecq's,  No.  835  Canal  street. 

May'Sf  No.  601  Canal  street.    Soda  water  and  ice  cream. 


MASONIC  TEMPLE. 


60  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Fuerst  &  Kramer's,  No.  828  Canal  street. 
New  York  Confectionery,  No.  722  Canal  street. 
Mamiessier's,  No.  701  Royal  street. 

BATHS. 

St.  Charles  Hotel  Baths,  No.  724  Common  street.  Turkish 
and  Russian  baths,  $1.00 ;  plain  baths,  30  cents.  Open  day 
and  night.  Ladies'  days,  Mondays,  Wednesdays  and  Fridays, 
8  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Gaupp's  Baths,  No.  828  Conti  street.  Turkish  and  Russian 
baths,  50  cents;  sulphur  baths,  50  cents;  plain  baths,  25 
cents.    Open  from  7  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.    Ladies'  day,  Thursday. 

Swimming  Baths,  at  Lake  End ;   15  and  25  cents. 

BARBERS. 

St.  Charles  Hotel. 
VoelkeVs,  No.  725  Common  street. 
Tony's,  No.  126  Carondelet  street. 
Huhener,  No.  713  Common  street. 
Hirn's,  No.  120  Royal  street. 

ANTIQUES   AND   BRIC=A=BRAC. 

Hawkins,  No.  224  Royal  street. 

Schmidt,  No.  218  Royal  street. 
Waldhorn,  No.  837  Royal  street. 

BOOKSELLERS  AND  STATIONERS. 

F.  F.  Hansen  &  Bro.,  Ltd.,  No.  714  Canal  street. 

SANITARIUMS. 

Hotel  Dieu,  Tulane  avenue  and  Galvez  street.  Conducted 
by  the  Sisters  of  Charity. 

Touro  Infirmary,  No.  3516  Prytania  street. 

New  Orleans  Sanitarium,  No.  731  Carondelet  street. 

Louisiana  Retreat  for  the  hisane.  No.  962  Henry  Clay  ave- 
nue.    Conducted  by  the  Sisters  of  Charity. 

Kneipp  Water  Cure,  North  Peters  and  Flood  streets. 


62  New  Orleans  Guide. 

TELEGRAPH  QFFICES. 

Western  Union  Telegraph  Co.,  No.  301  St.  Charles  street. 
Postal  Telegraph  Cable  Co.,  No.  228  St.  Charles  street. 
Ocean  Towboat  Telegraph,  No.  727  Common  street. 
East  Louisiana  Telegraph  Line,  No.  618  Common  street. 

DISTRICT    MESSENGER   QFFICES. 

American  District  Telegraph  Co.,  No.  614  Gravier  street. 
National  District  Telegraph  Co.,  No.  301  St.  Charles  street. 
Annerican  Telegraph  (&  Telephone  Co.,  No.  227  St.  Charles 
street. 

EXPRESS  QFFICES. 

Southern  Express  Co.  {Adams'),  No.  726  Union  street. 
Pacific  Express  Co.,  No.  726  Union  street. 
American  Express  Co.,  No.  317  St.  Charles  street. 
Wells-Fargo  Express  Co.,  No.  204  Camp  street. 

TELEPHONE  QFFICE. 

Cumberland  Telephone,  Carondelet  and  Poydras  streets. 


Social  Manners  and  Customs.  63 

Social  Manners  and  Customs. 


The  social  manners  and  customs  of  New  Orleans,  a  mixturo 
of  the  French,  Spanish  and  English,  are  somewhat  different 
from  those  of  other  parts  of  the  United  States,  and,  as  their 
peculiarities  are  rigidly  adhered  to,  a  few  words  on  this  subject 
may  be  found  useful. 

The  tourist,  if  he  has  friends  in  the  city  that  he  wishes  to  see, 
should  immediately  on  arrival,  unless  he  desires  to  call  at  their 
office,  send  his  visiting  card  by  city  post  or  by  district  messen- 
ger to  the  parties,  taking  care  to  write  his  full  address  on  the 
card.  The  arrivals  at  the  principal  hotels  are  published  in  fuU 
by  all  the  daily  papers,  but  often,  as  during  the  Carnival  week, 
the  crowd  is  so  great  that  some  names  may  be  accidentally 
omitted,  or  a  name,  in  the  great  number  of  arrivals  published, 
may  escape  the  notice  of  friends.  Letting  your  friends  know 
immediately  that  you  are  in  the  city  is  one  of  the  best  ways  of 
obtaining  invitations  to  balls  and  other  festivities.  Ladies  and 
gentlemen  call  on  strangers  at  the  hotels  on  Sundays  after 
church  or  during  the  week  days  and  evenings,  especially  the 
gentlemen,  between  7  and  8  p.  m.,  at  which  latter  hour  ail 
theatres  open.  Gentlemen  call  on  reception  evenings,  on  Sun- 
days after  church  hours  between  1  and  3  p.  m.,  and  on  Sun- 
day evenings  from  6  to  10  p.  m. 

Balls  and  Parties.  The  season  of  balls  and  parties  begins 
about  the  15th  of  December  and  lasts  until  Ash  Wednesday, 
the  first  day  of  Lent.  For  these  entertainments,  which  begin 
at  9  p.  m.,  formal  written  or  engraved  invitations  are  sent 
which  should  be  accepted  or  declined  in  writing. 

Breakfasts.  During  the  Spring  breakfast  parties  are  given 
at  some  restaurant,  or  at  the  Lake,  and  the  hour  usually  chosen 
is  10  o'clock.  A  favorite  place  is  Begue's,  No.  823  Decatur 
street.    Breakfast  $1.00,  including  wine. 

Lunches.  During  the  Winter  and  also  in  the  Lenten  season 
lunches  are  given  at  private  residences.    These  entertainments. 


64  New  Orleans  Guide, 

which  are  almost  exclusively  for  ladies,  take  place  about  11  or 
2  p.  m.,  and  last  until  6  p.  m.  The  ladies  attend  in  visiting 
dress,  and  sometimes  there  is  music,  but  no  dancing. 

Dinners.  In  the  Winter  season  and  in  Lent,  dinners  are  con- 
stantly given.  To  those  for  which  formal  invitations  are  issued 
an  acceptance  or  regret  should  be  sent  immediately.  Formal 
dinner  parties  begin  at  6  or  7  p.  m.  and  end  at  11  or  12  p.  m., 
and  full  evening  dress  is  the  usual  costume.  The  customary 
dinner  hour  for  families  is  5  p.  m.,  but  many  do  not  dine  until 
6:30  p.  m.  The  custom  of  dining  socially  with  friends  on 
Sundays  prevails,  and  such  dinners,  for  which  invitations  are 
often  made  as  late  as  the  morning  of  the  day  itself,  are  verbal 
and  are  generally  for  4  o'clock. 

Suppers.  Suppers  are  often  given  at  the  restaurants  or  con- 
fectioners after  the  theatre  is  out,  but  do  not  last  very  late. 

Theatres.  The  theatres  all  commence  at  8  o'clock,  except  the 
French  Opera  which  begins  sometimes  earlier  when  a  long 
opera  is  to  be  given.  Visiting  costume  is  sufficient  for  all 
treatres  except  the  French  Opera,  where  full  evening  dress 
(ladies  without  bonnets)  is  usual  for  those  in  the  box  tiers. 
The  custom  of  young  ladies  attending  the  theatre  alone  with  a 
gentleman  does  not  e:enerally  prevail,  as  in  other  cities. 

Churches.  High-mass  is  celebrated  at  all  Catholic  churches 
at  10  or  11  a.  m.,  and  ends  at  12  m.  or  1  p.  m.  The  services  at 
all  the  Protestant  churches  begin  at  11  a.  m.,  and  end  at  1  p.  m. 
The  morning  services  are  well  attended,  but  the  evening  ser- 
vices are  neglected. 

Promenades.  The  hour  for  promenades  in  Winter  is  from  3 
to  6  p.  m.  In  Summer  from  6  to  8  p.  m.  Canal  street  is  the 
usual  resort.  Up  town.  Prytania.  Jackson,  St.  Charles  and  the 
cross  streets  are  much  frequented.  Down  town,  Rampart  and 
Esplanade  streets  are  the  favorite  walks. 

Driving.  The  hours  for  driving  vary  according  to  the 
seasons.  In  Winter  from  3  to  6  p.  m.  In  Spring  a  little  later. 
In  Summer  after  dinner  from  6  to  8  p.  m.  Driving  parties  oi' 
three  or  four  are  often  formed.     (See  Drives.) 

Riding.  The  custom  of  horseback  riding  does  not  prevail  in 
the  city  as  much  as  g,t  the  North.    Good  saddle  horses  can  be 


Social  Manners  and  Customs.  65 

had  at  the  livery  stables  and  the  usual  ride  is  up  St.  Charles 
avenue.  The  usual  hours  are,  in  Winter  3  to  6  p.  m.  In  Sum- 
mer 6  to  8  p.  m. 

Bicycling.  The  level  roads  around  the  city  are  the  delight 
of  all  lovers  of  the  wheel.  St.  Charles,  CarroUton,  Tulane, 
Canal,  Esplanade  avenues,  are  much  used  and  the  famous 
shell  road  to  West  End  on  Lake  Pontchartrain  is  one  of  the 
favorite  rides. 

Races.  The  races  commence  in  November  and  last  100  days. 
The  last  day  of  the  meeting;  generally  closes  with  a  four  mile 
race,  and  is  largely  attended.  The  races  take  place  at  the  Fair 
Grounds,  and  begin  at  2  p.  m.  Admission  to  the  grand  stand 
$1,  ladies  50  cents.    Cars  on  Canal  street,  fare  5  cents. 

Clubs.  The  leading  clubs  are  seven  in  number.  All  the 
clubs  are  on  the  open  plan  (except  the  Louisiana  Club),  and 
strangers  are  invited  by  members  for  a  limited  time. 

Flowers.  Bouquet  stands,  corner  of  Royal  and  Canal  streets. 
Floral  designs  made  by  hand  in  Florists '  stores  on  Canal  street. 

Invitations  to  Carnival  Balls.  The  Knights  of  Momus,  the 
Mystick  Krewe  of  Comus,  the  Knights  of  Proteus  and  the 
Court  of  Rex,  are  mystic  organizations  which  give  annual  balls 
during  Mardi  Gras.  These  balls  are  very  large  and  handsom-.^ 
affairs  preceded  by  tableaux,  and  the  stranger  should  not  fail 
to  attend  them  if  he  can  get  an  invitation.  To  secure  one  he 
should  see  his  friend  at  once  on  arrival  in  the  city.  The  Momus 
ball  takes  place  the  Thursday  before  Mardi  Gras ;  Proteus,  the 
Monday  before  Mardi  Gras,  and  the  Mystick  Krewe  and  Rex 
balls  on  Mardi  Gras  night.  If  no  invitations  to  any  of  these 
entertainments*  are  received  shortly  after  arrival  in  the  city  or 
after  the  tourist's  card  has  been  sent  to  his  friends,  it  would 
be  well  to  mention  the  fact  to  any  friends  who  may  call.  If  the 
tourist  has  no  friends  in  the  city  it  is  coyisidered  proper  to 
address  a  note  to  any  of  these  societies,  through  the  Post  OMce 
asking  for  invitations.  In  this  request  give  each  name  in  full, 
where  from,  and,  above  all,  the  precise  address  (number  and 
street,  if  at  a  private  house)  where  you  wish  the  invitation 
delivered.  If  the  invitation  committee  of  these  secret  societies 
decide  that  the  invitation  shall  be  issued,  it  is  at  once  sent  to 
the  address  indicated,  but,  sometimes,  owing  to  the  number  of 


Social  Manners  and  Customs.  67 

invitations  amounting  to  several  thousands,  it  may  not  reacli 
the  proper  destination  until  the  afternoon  of  the  ball.  These 
invitations  are  strictly  personal  and  are  not  transferable.  Any 
one  detected  endeavoring  to  enter  on  another  person's  invita- 
tion, (especially  at  the  Momus,  Revellers,  Proteus  and  Comus 
Balls)  is  refused  admittance  at  the  door  by  the  committee  of 
gentlemen  who  have  charge  of  the  ball.  Ladies  and  gentlemen 
are  expected  to  be  in  full  evening  dress  at  the  Kevellers, 
Momus,  Proteus,  and  Comus  balls.  A  lady  with  a  bonnet  is  not 
permitted  to  enter  the  lower  tier  of  seats,  but  is  escorted  by  a 
gentleman  of  the  committee  to  an  upper  gallery  and  is  not  ex- 
pected to  venture  on  the  floor  of  the  ball-room.  Invitations  to 
these  balls  do  not  require  any  acceptance  or  regret.  During 
the  Winter  balls  are  given  by  the  Twelfth  Night  Revellers,  the 
Atlanteans,  the  Elves  of  Oberon,  Mithras,  the  Falstaffians, 
Nereus,  Comus  and  other  mystic  societies. 

Visiting.  The  etiquette  of  receiving  and  returning  visits 
and  of  leaving  cards  on  departure  after  a  prolonged  stay  is 
rigorously  adhered  to,  and  strangers  should  be  careful  to 
observe  thp^e  customs.  Reception  days  for  ladies  are  kept  very 
generally,  fjtnd  the  hours  are  from  1  to  6  p.  m.,  but  some  ladies 
receive  any  day.  Gentlemen,  if  strangers,  also  call  on  these 
(^ays.  The  reception  day  of  a  lady  is  stated  on  her  card,  and 
when  no  day  is  given  the  lady  has  no  reception  day.  Ladies 
whose  sojourn  in  the  city  is  limited,  can  call  on  Sunday,  after 
church  hours,  between  1  and  3  p.  m.,  and  in  the  evening. 

Boating.  Annual  rowing  regattas  take  place  on  the  Lake. 
The  St.  John  Club,  the  leading  rowing  organization,  has  a 
club  house  at  the  West  End.  Also,  the  West  End  and  other 
clubs  and  boat-houses  are  situated  at  this  resort. 

Yachting.  The  proximity  of  the  lake  permits  great  indul- 
gence in  this  favorite  sport.  At  the  West  End  is  the  Southern 
Yacht  Club,  a  large  and  fine  building  near  the  end  of  the 
Canal.  Regattas  take  place  here  in  May  and  June.  On  these 
occasions  the  Club  House  is  open  to  invited  guests.  Yachts  can 
be  hired  by  the  hour  at  moderate  prices.  For  a  cruise  of  sev- 
eral days  cabin  yachts  with  crews  can  be  hired  at  reasonable 
rates. 

Cock-Fighting.  This  sport  has  many  votaries  among  the 
Creole  and  Spanish  population.    Mains  take  place  every  Sun- 


68  New  Orleans  Guide. 

day  from  9  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m.  at  the  cock-pit  at  the  Carrollton 
Protection  Levee.  {Take  the  St.  Charles  avenue  cars,  on  Canal 
street.) 

Hunting.  The  hunting  season  opens  September  15th.  The 
plantation  fields  around  the  city  are  the  jisual  places  to  find 
small  game.  For  ducks,  the  bayous  on  the  L.  &  N.  Railroad 
are  the  best  places.  Hunting  information  can  be  obtained  at 
Rhodes'  gun  store,  No.  307  St.  Charles  street. 

Fishing.  The  Lake  and  bayous  on  the  L.  &  N.  Railroad  are 
the  favorite  grounds.  For  further  information,  apply  to 
Rhodes'  Sporting  Depot,  No.  307  St.  Charles  street. 

AMUSEMENTS  AND  HOLIDAYS. 

Theatres.  During  the  Winter  and  Spring,  the  opera  and 
theatres  (see  amusements)  are  open,  and  all  the  leading  theat- 
rical novelties  and  plays  are  produced  by  traveling  combina- 
tions. 

Christmas.  This  holiday  is  observed  by  the  Americans  in 
the  usual  old  English  manner,  but  among  the  Creoles  it  is  only  a 
religious  festival.  Midnight  Mass  on  Christmas  Eve,  with  fine 
music,  is  celebrated  in  the  Catholic  churches,  and  on  Christ- 
mas morning  there  is  High  Mass  with  music,  at  10  and  11 
o  'clock. 

New  Year's  Day.  The  usual  visiting  custom  is  limited  to 
relatives  and  intimate  friends,  and  this  day  is  celebrated 
among  the  Creoles  like  Christmas  among  the  English,  sending 
presents  to  friends  and  having  large  family  dinners. 

January  6th.  Twelfth  Night, ' '  the  Jour  dii  Roi, ' '  or  King 's 
Day  among  the  Creoles.  It  is  celebrated  by  a  large  ball,  given 
by  the  Twelfth  Night  Revellers,  a  mystic  organization,  at 
which  a  cake,  containing  a  locket  in  the  shape  of  a  bean,  is 
cut  for  their  young  lady  friends,  and  the  young  lady  who  is 
fortunate  in  finding  the  bean  is  crowned  Queen  of  the  festival. 
There  are  also  many  other  bean-cake  parties  given  among  the 
Creoles,  as  it  is  a  favorite  amusement  with  them,  and  the  one 
drawing  the  bean  is  called  upon  to  give  the  party  next  year. 
At  this  time  large  ring  cakes  with  a  bean  (generally  a  pecan 
nut)  inside  are  sold  at  the  confectioners'. 


70  New  Orleans  Guide. 

January  8th.  Anniversary  of  the  Battle  of  New  Orleans. 
A  review  of  the  militia  by  the  Governor. 

February  22nd.  "Washington 's  Birthday,  balls  and  a  review 
of  the  militia  by  the  Governor  take  place. 

Mardi  Gras  Carnival.— The  Carnival  season  winds  up  with 
many  festivities.    It  is  commonly  known  as  Mardi  Gras. 

Shrove  Monday.— This  day,  called  by  the  French  Lundi 
Gras,  is  celebrated  by  the  reception  of  the  King  of  the  Carni- 
val. His  Majesty  (called  ''Rex")  arrives  in  state  at  the  foot 
of  Canal  street  and,  escorted  by  the  military  and  the  Dukes  of 
his  realm,  visits  the  City  Hall,  where  the  keys  of  the  city  are 
presented  to  him  by  the  Mayor.  The  King  then  goes  to  the  St. 
Charles  Hotel  and  holds  a  reception.  In  the  evening,  His 
Majesty,  attended  by  a  brilliant  suite,  visits  the  theatres  in 
state.  The  entrance  of  the  King  and  his  court  into  the  royal 
state  box  is  heralded  by  the  orchestra  playing  the  royal 
anthem.  Also,  on  this  evening,  the  ball  of  the  Knights  of  Pro- 
teus, with  a  street  pageant,  takes  place,  followed  by  a  ball  at 
one  of  the  theatres. 

Mardi  Gras.  This,  the  great  day  of  the  Carnival,  was  for- 
merly celebrated  in  different  ways.  The  throwing  of  flour  or 
confetti,  in  former  times  the  custom,  is  forbidden.  At  12  o  'clock 
the  Rex  procession  appears,  the  route  of  which  is  announced  in 
the  daily  papers.  After  parading  the  streets,  the  King  passes 
the  Boston  Club  and  selects  his  Queen  from  the  ladies  on  the 
gallery  by  presenting  her  with  a  bouquet  and  drinks  her 
health.  He  then  retires  to  his  palace,  where  a  grand  ball  takes 
place  in  the  evening.  The  Queen  appoints  her  Maids  of  Honor, 
and  then  a  reception  takes  place  in  the  throne-room.  At  dark, 
all  maskers  retire  from  the  streets,  and,  at  8  o'clock,  the 
'^  My  stick  Krewe  of  Comus"  comes  out  of  their  mysterious 
den.  The  rou^"e  of  this  procession  is  generally  illuminated,  anri 
the  streets  are  thronged  with  a  dense  mass  of  humanity.  The 
''Krewe"  retires  to  one  of  the  theatres,  and,  after  a  series  of 
tableaux,  a  ball  takes  place. 

Ash  Wednesday.  The  day  following  Mardi  Gras  is  Ash 
Wednesday,  and  is  celebrated  as  a  church  fast,  being  the  first 
day  of  the  forty  days  of  Lent.  On  this  day  Roman  Catholics 
visit  their  churches,  and  have  a  cross  in  ashes  made  upon  their 
foreheads  as  a  token  of  humility. 


9MILE  POINT 


EXPOSinON  CEMETERIES 

CARROIXTON  (Tth  DISTRICT)  « 


RACETRACK  , ir^Jl'r^'Af  ^        adDI-^WCT        COM/ENT  ^  ^„/^,^lVoF  MHM.,0  ' 

,th  DISTRICT    CENTRE  O*  -".V^cCATHEDRAI. 


Social  Manners  and  Customs.  71 

St.  Joseph's  Day.  This  day,  called  by  the  French  **Mi- 
Careme"  or  Mid-Lent,  is  a  great  occasion  for  balls  and  jollifi- 
cations, as  the  observance  of  the  fasting  is  suspended  for  a 
day. 

Palm  Sunday.  A  church  festival,  commemorating  the  entry 
ot  the  Saviour  into  Jerusalem,  is  celebrated  by  the  blessing  of 
palm  leaves  and  latanier  ornaments  in  the  Catholic  churches. 

Holy  Week.    This  week  is  strictly  observed  in  the  city. 

Maunday,  or  Holy  Thursday.  Services  in  all  the  churches, 
including  the  washing  of  the  feet  of  twelve  poor  men  by  the 
Archbishop,  at  the  Cathedral,  in  commemoration  of  the  Sav- 
iour washing  the  feet  of  his  Apostles.  Tcnebrae,  at  3  o'clock 
in  all  Catholic  churches  and  services  in  the  Episcopal  churches. 

Good  Friday.  Legal  Holiday.  Services  in  all  the  churches, 
Catholic,  Episcopal,  and  Lutheran.  No  bells  are  rung,  no 
iiui^ic  is  heard  in  the  Catholic  churches,  and  their  altars,  de- 
nud«^(l  of  all  ornaments,  are  covered  with  crape.  Before  the 
altar  is  a  crucifix  which  all  devout  Catholics  kiss. 

Holy  Saturday.  On  this,  the  last  day  of  Lent,  in  all  the 
Catholic  churches,  the  oils  and  the  water  to  be  used  in  baptism 
and  extreme  unction  during  the  year  are  consecrated.  The 
Pascal  candle  is  lighted. 

Easter  Sttnday.  Easter  is  observed  in  the  Catholic,  Epis- 
copal and  Lutheran  churches  by  services  with  fine  music.  The 
Jesuit's  church  music  is  considered  the  best.  Easter  eggs, 
colored  in  a  variety  of  styles,  are  sold  in  quantities. 

Spring  Entertainments.  After  Easter,  charitable  enter- 
tainments take  place,  and  are  the  resort  of  fashion. 

Corpus  Christi  Day  (in  French,  Fete  Dieu).  Formerly 
celebrated  by  a  procession  of  the  Archbishop  and  Clergy 
around  Jackson  Square  bearing  the  Sacrament,  but  now  the 
procession  now  takes  place  inside  the  Cathedral. 

July  4th.  The  National  Holiday  is  honored  by  a  parade  of 
the  militia,  and  a  review  by  the  Governor. 

September  14th,  Anniversary  of  the  fight  against  the 
Republican  Kellogg  State  government  of  1874.     This  day  is 


72  New  Orleans  Guide. 

sometimes  celebrated  by  a  parade  and  he  graves  of  those  who 
fell  in  the  fight  and  are  decorated  with  flowers. 

November  1st.  All  Saints  Day,  in  French  ' '  La  Touissaint. ' ' 
A  day  on  which  it  is  the  custom  to  visit  the  cemeteries.  The 
tombs  are  decorated  with  flowers  and  ornaments.  In  the 
Creole  cemeteries  lighted  candles  are  sometimes  placed  at  the 
graves.  In  the  afternoon,  the  Societies  visit  the  cemeteries 
with  bands  of  music  playing  dirges.  Services  are  also  held  in 
some  of  the  graveyards.  The  stranger  on  this  day  should  visit 
the  old  St.  Louis  Cemetery  on  Basin  street,  three  blocks  from 
Canal  street  (see  Cemeteries). 


Directions  for  the  Tourist.  73 


Directions  for  the  Tourist. 

The  houses  are  all  numbered  by   100  to  the  square,   starting  from   Canal 
street,  up  and  down,  and  the  cross  streets  from  the  River. 


General  Directions.— To  visit  the  principal  points  of  in- 
terest with  care  and  comfort,  and  without  loss  of  time,  it  is 
best  to  take  a  carriage  by  the  hour,  but  many  strangers  prefer 
the  street  cars  on  account  of  economy  and  easy  riding.  The 
city  is  perfectly  level,  and,  consequently,  the  speed  of  the  cars 
is  greater  than  in  other  cities.  Lines  of  railroads  radiate  from 
Canal  street  all  over  the  city,  and  the  cars,  which,  on  some 
lines,  from  the  narrowness  of  the  streets,  are  obliged  to  go  up 
one  street  and  down  the  next,  are  clean,  and  the  fare  is  only  5 
cents.  Before  starting  out,  consult  the  programme,  as  given 
below,  and  select  such  sights  as  you  desire.  In  this  guide  the 
sights  are  minutely  described  and  arranged  alphabetically, 
and  to  them  the  tourist  must  constantly  refer.  Study  the  ca)* 
system  and  much  time  will  be  saved.  To  obtain  a  good  idea  of 
the  city  and  its  extent,  go  first  to  the  Hennen  Building,  corner 
Carondelet  and  Common  streets  and  ascend  to  the  roof  (15 
cents  admission)  and  a  magnificent  view  of  the  city  is  obtained 
from  this  elevation.  (See  Hennen  Building  Observatory.)  If" 
the  Tourist  happens  to  be  in  New  Orleans  in  Winter,  the  best 
hours  for  sight  seeing  are  from  10  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m. ;  in  Summer, 
the  early  morning  hours  are  preferable  on  account  of  the  heat 
in  the  middle  of  the  day. 

Centre  of  City.— The  centre  of  movement  is  at  Canal  street, 
St.  Charles  and  Royal  streets. 

Principal  Street.— Canal  street,  with  the  Clubs,  Shops  and 
Confectioners,  is  the  dividing  line  between  the  old  French  and 
the  new  American  parts  of  the  city. 

Sights  of  the  City.— French  Opera,  Archbishop's  old 
Palace,  Cabildo  and  old  Spanish  Court  buildings,  old  Creole 
houses,  Tulane  University,  Tulane  Museum  {Natural  History, 
Painting,  Medical).     Cemeteries:   the  Metairie    {fine  monu- 


74  New  Orleans  Guide. 

ments)  ;  St.  Roch's  {chapel  and  wishing  shrine),  Old  St.  Louis, 
on  Basin  and  Conti  streets,  Cathedral,  Jesuits'  Church,  St. 
Joseph's,  St.  Alphonsus',  City  Hall,  Public  Library,  Custom- 
house {beautiful  white  Marble  Hall  and  fine  view  from  the 
roof),  Cotton  Presses,  Memorial  Hall  {very  interesting  war 
relics,  etc.),  Ice  Works,  Howard  Library,  Margaret's  Monu- 
ment, U.  S.  Mint  (coinage  of  money),  Levee,  Cotton  Exchange 
{bulls  and  bears  future  ring),  Jackson  Square  Monument. 

Sights  of  Environs.— Battlefield  of  New  Orleans  and  Chal- 
mette  Cemetery,  West  End,  Spanish  Fort  {Lake  Pontchar- 
train),  Audubon  Park  {conservatory  of  palms  and  tropical 
plants),  Slaughterhouses,  Sugar  Plantations,  Eads'  Jetties 
(two  days  by  boat  and  cars) ,  Lake  Shore  Resorts  on  Mississippi 
Sound. 

Old  and  New  City.— The  contrast  between  the  old  and  new 
city  is  very  marked.  Below  Canal  street,  the  streets  bear 
French  names,  many  of  them  being  called  after  titles  belong- 
ing to  the  Royal  family  of  France,  and  on  the  houses  the  signs 
are  mostly  in  French  or  in  French  and  English.  French  is 
the  principal  language,  and  the  manners  and  customs  of  ''La- 
belle  France"  still  prevail.  The  people  keep  to  themselves, 
any  many  of  the  inhabitants  have  never  crossed  Canal 
street.  Above  Canal  street  the  buildings  are  more  modern, 
the  streets  have  English  names  and  French  is  heard  at  rare 
intervals. 

PROGRAM   OF   SIQHT=SEEING. 

Tourists  passing  through  New  Orleans  endeavor  to  remain 
a  week  on  account  of  its  mild  Winter  climate,  places  of  amuse- 
ment and  good  cusine,  but  as  many  are  obliged  to  limit  their 
stay  to  one  or  four  days  a  program  of  sight-seeing  for  this 
period  is  herein  given  and  the  various  sights  are  described  and 
alphabetically  arranged. 

One  Day^s  Sight-Seeing. 

Leave  the  hotel  by  9  a.  m.  and  go  direct  to  the  Hennen  Build- 
ing, corner  of  Carondelet  and  Common  streets,  visiting  the 
Cotton  Exchange  on  the  way,  {see  Cotton  Exchange).  Ascend 
to  the  top  of  the  Hennen  Building  (elevator).  Admission  to 
roof  15  cents.    Panoramic  view  of  the  city. 


76  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Thence  to  Canal  street  and  to  the  river  {see  Port  of  Nev) 
Orleans),  and  returning  stop  at  the  United  States  Custom- 
house {see  Customhouse). 

Thence  to  the  corner  of  Canal  and  Royal  streets  and  down 
Royal  street  among  the  old  houses  and  antique  stores  {see  WalJc 
in  the  Old  City),  to  the  Cabildo,  Cathedral,  Jackson  Square, 
Crescent  bend  of  the  river,  French  Market,  United  States  Mint 
and  back  to  Canal  street. 

Thence  up  St.  Charles  street  to  the  City  Hall  and  Lafayette 
Square  with  its  monuments. 

Thence  up  St.  Charles  street,  on  foot  or  in  cars,  to  Lee  Cir- 
cle, where  take  St.  Charles  avenue  Belt  car  to  the  head  of  St. 
Charles  avenue  and  examine  the  big  levee.  Resume  the  car  and 
return  to  the  city  via  Carrollton  and  Tulane  avenues.  Visit 
Jesuits'  Church  on  Baronne  street,  near  Canal.  If  there  is 
time  take  an  electric  train,  corner  Canal  and  Baronne  streets, 
to  West  End  (Lake  Pontchartrain) . 

Four  Days'  Sight-Seeing. 

First  Day.  Leave  the  hotel  at  10  a.  m.,  visiting  the  Cottoji 
Exchange,  thence  to  the  Hennen  Building  for  a  view  of  the 
city  from  the  roof  (elevator).    Admission  to  the  roof  15  cents. 

Thence  to  the  head  of  Canal  street  to  view  the  river  and  the 
levee.  Returning  visit  the  United  States  Customhouse  and 
thence  to  the  corner  of  Canal  and  Royal  streets.  Down  Royal 
street  {see  a  Walk  in  the  Old  City),  among  the  old  houses  and 
antique  stores,  to  the  Cabildo,  Cathedral,  Jackson  Square, 
French  Market,  United  States  Mint  and  back  to  Canal  street. 

Take  St.  Charles  avenue  Belt  car  for  a  belt  ride,  stopping  at 
the  head  of  St.  Charles  avenue  for  a  view  of  the  river  and  the 
big  levee,  returning  via  Carrollton  and  Tulane  avenues  to 
Canal  street.  The  Charity  Hospital,  the  Courthouse,  Tulane 
University  can  be  seen  on  this  route. 

Second  Day.  Take  the  Claiborne  avenue  car  to  St.  Roch's 
Cemetery ;  return  by  the  Villere  car  to  Canal  street.  Thence 
up  St.  Charles  street  to  the  City  Hall,  five  squares,  and  Lafa- 
yette Square  with  its  monuments.  Thence  three  squares  to  the 
Lee  Circle  monument  and  Howard  Library.  Then  return  to 
Canal  street  by  St.  Charles  avenue  cars  and  visit  Jesuits' 
Church  on  Baronne  street,  near  Canal  street,  and  take  the 


Directions  for  the  Tourist.  77 

electric  train,  corner  Canal  and  Baronne  streets,  to  West  End 
(Lake  Pontchartrain) ,  stopping  half-way  at  the  beautiful 
Metairie  Cemetery. 

Third  Day.  Take  a  Coliseum  car  to  Audubon  Park  and 
visit  the  great  conservatories  and  palm  houses,  the  avenues  of 
giant  oaks,  and  thence  to  Magazine  cars  to  Canal  street. 
Change  on  Canal  street  to  the  Esplanade  cars  and  visit  Bayou 
St.  John,  with  its  old  Creole  villas,  and  the  City  Park  with  its 
lakes  and  grand  old  oaks,  returning  via  Canal  street  Belt.  At 
the  cemeteries  (Canal  street)  another  visit  to  the  Metairie 
Cemetery  and  West  End  (Lake  Pontchartrain)  can  be  made. 

Fourth  Bay.  Take  a  Tchoupitoulas  street  car  on  Canal  street 
to  the  Cotton  Press  district  for  a  view  of  compressing  cotton; 
thence  by  car  to  Jackson  avenue  ferry,  cross  to  Gretna  (view  of 
the  harbor  and  shipping)  and  visit  cotton  seed  oil  mill  below 
the  ferry  landing.  Returning  to  the  head  of  Jackson  avenue 
take  the  car  to  Canal  street  and  walk  out  towards  the  woods 
three  squares  to  the  Spanish  Fort  depot  and  take  train  to 
Spanish  Fort. 

STREET  CAR  SYSTEM. 

The  electric  car  system  of  New  Orleans  is  one  of  the  most 
perfect  in  the  world.  The  level  and  straight  streets  of  the  city 
permit  fast  time  to  be  made  with  safety,  and  over  the  twenty- 
three  lines,  covering  about  225  miles  of  track,  about  forty-four 
million  of  passengers  are  carried  annually  with  very  few  acci- 
dents. The  various  lines  have  been  merged  into  one  corpora- 
tion known  as  the  New  Orleans  Railways  Company,  and  many 
improvements,  in  the  way  of  transfers  and  better  service,  have 
been  introduced.  The  names  of  the  various  lines  are  indicated 
on  the  front  and  rear  transoms  and  on  the  dashboards. 

Centre  of  System.  Canal  street  is  the  centre  of  the  street 
car  system  of  the  city  and  all  cars  either  stop  on  or  cross  Canal 
street. 

Fares.  The  fare  on  all  cars  is  five  cents  from  Canal  street  to 
the  end  '/f  line  or  vice  versa. 

Trani^fers.  On  several  lines  transfers,  without  additional 
charge,  are  furnished  the  passenger  on  application  to  the  con- 


78  New  Orleans  Guide. 

diictor  on  entering  the  car,  who  will  indicate  the  point  where 
the  tr  msfer  is  to  be  made  and  which  must  be  done  immedi- 
ately on  arrival. 

Belt  Biding.  There  are  several  belt  riding  lines,  by  which 
the  passenger  may  ride  many  miles  for  a  five-cent  fare,  and 
they  are  much  nsed  in  the  summer  for  an  airing  and  for  pleas- 
ure on  a  warm  evening. 

Lines  of  Cars. 

Algiers  and  Gretna.  From  Algiers  (15th  Ward)  Ferry, 
through  McDonoghville,  Goiildsboro  and  Gretna.  (Jackson 
avenue  Ferry.) 

Annunciation  Street.  From  Canal  street,  up  Carondelet, 
Clio  and  Annunciation  streets,  to  Toledano,  where  it  connects 
with  Tchounitonlas  street  line  to  Audubon  Park  and  returns 
via  Chippewa,  Annunciation  and  Camp  streets  to  Canal  street, 
street. 

Carondelet  Strpet.  TTd  St.  Charles  street,  Howard  avenue. 
TTd  Baroune  and  Carondelet  streets  to  Napoleon  avenue  and 
returns  via  Caroudelet  street,  Bonrbon  street  to  Elvsian  Fields 
street.  From  Chartres  street  to  Louisa  street,  up  Royal  street 
to  Canal  street. 

Bffvon  St.  John.  From  Caual  street,  down  Dnuphine  street, 
out  Dumaine  street  to  Bavou  St.  John,  Grand  Route  St.  John 
and  returns  by  N.  Broad,  Ursuline,  Burgundy  streets  to  Canal 
street. 

Brand,  Street.  F-r^om  Canal  street  down  Dauphine  and  out 
Dumaine  strpet  to  N.  Broad  street  and  returns  via  N.  Broad, 
St.  Peter  and  Burgimdy  streets  to  Canal  street. 

Canal  Belt.  From  Canal  street  and  river  out  Canal  street 
and  return  via  Metairie  Road,  Esplanade  avenue  and  Rampart 
^'treet  to  Canal. 

Clio  Street.  From  Elvoian  Fields  strppt  up  Royal  and  St. 
rharle«?  streets  to  Howard  avenue,  out  Howard  avenue  to  S. 
Ramnart  street,  un  Franklin  street  to  Jackson  avenue,  out 
Jackson  avenue  to  Magnolia  street,  up  Magnolia  street  to 
Seventh  street. 


Directions  for  the  Tourist.  79 

Claiborne  Avenue.  From  Canal  street  down  Claiborn«^ 
avenue  to  Elysian  Fields  to  St.  Claude  street  to  Louisa  street, 
returns  via  Urquhart,  Elysian  Fields  and  Claiborne  avenue  to 
Canal  street. 

Coliseum  Street.  From  Canal  street  up  Carondelet,  Clio, 
Camp  and  Chestnut  streets  to  Louisiana  avenue,  and  up  Maga- 
zine street  to  Audubon  Park,  Broadway,  Carrollton  avenue, 
Oak  streets  to  Southport,  returns  same  route  via  Magazine 
street,  Louisiana  avenue,  down  Camp  street  and  St.  Charles 
street  to  Canal  street. 

Dauphine-Magazine.  From  Audubon  Park  down  via  Lau- 
rel, Valmont,  Constance  to  Louisiana  to  Canal.  Through 
Canal  to  Rampart.  Down  Rampart  to  Esplanade.  Out  Espla- 
nade, down  Dauphine  to  Flood,  N.  Peters  to  Slaughter  House 
and  Barracks.  Returning :  Up  N.  Peters  to  Delery,  Dauphine 
and  N.  Rampart  to  Canal.  Through  Canal  to  Camp.  Up 
Camp  and  Magazine  to  Louisiana  avenue.  Out  Louisiana  ave- 
nue to  Laurel  and  up  Laurel  to  Audubon  Park. 

Canal  Street  and  Ferry.  From  Canal  street  up  St.  Charles 
street  to  Howard  avenue,  up  Dryades  to  St.  Andrew,  up  Bar- 
onne  street  to  Eighth  street.  Returns  down  St.  Denis  and 
Rampart  street  to  Canal  street  and  to  Canal  street  Ferry. 

Henry  Clay  Avenue.  From  Canal  street  up  Carondelet 
street,  Brainard  and  Baronne  streets  to  Louisiana  avenue,  up 
Camp  street  to  Henry  Clay  avenue  and  Magazine  street. 
Returns  via  Coliseum,  Louisiana  avenue  to  Dryades  street  to 
Julia  and  down  St.  Charles  to  Canal  street. 

Jackson  Aveiiue.  From  Canal  street  up  Baronne  street  lo 
Howard  avenue,  up  St.  Charles  avenue  to  Jackson  avenue, 
out  Jackson  avenue  to  ferry  (Gretna).  Returns  via  same 
route. 

Levee  and  Barracks.  From  Canal  street  down  N.  Peters 
street  to  Lafayette  avenue,  Chartres  street  to  Poland  street 
and  connecting  with  car  down  Dauphine  street  to  Flood  street, 
up  Flood  street  to  N.  Peters  street  and  down  to  Slaughterhouse. 
Returns  up  N.  Peters  street  to  Delery  street,  up  Dauphine 
street  to  Poland  and  up  N.  Rampart  street  to  Canal  street. 


80  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Napoleon  Avenue.  Transfer  service  between  St.  Charles 
avenue  and  the  river. 

Peters  Avenue.  From  Canal  street  up  S.  Rampart  street  to 
Calliope  and  to  S.  Franklin  street,  up  S.  Franklin  street  to 
Jackson  avenue,  to  Freret,  to  Louisiana  avenue,  to  Dryades 
street,  up  Dryades  street  to  Peters  avenue  station,  connection 
at  the  Arabella  barn  to  Coliseum  line  to  Audubon  Park  and 
Southport  via  Broadway,  CarroUton  avenue  and  Oak  street. 
Returns  same  route  to  Howard  street  to  S.  Franklin  street  to 
Dryades  street  and  University  place  to  Canal  street. 

Prytania-Esplanade  Belt.  From  Audubon  Park :  Down  via 
Hurst,  Joseph,  Prytania  and  Camp  street  to  Canal.  Through 
Canal  to  Rampart  street.  Down  Rampart  to  Esplanade.  Out 
Esplanade  and  Metairie  Road  to  Canal  street.  In  Canal  street 
to  Camp  and  up  Camp,  Prytania,  Joseph  and  Hurst  streets  to 
Audubon  Park. 

>S'^.  Charles  and  Tidane  Belts.  From  Canal  street  up  Ba- 
ronne  street  to  Howard  avenue,  up  St.  Charles  avenue  to 
Audubon  Park,  to  Carrollton  avenue  (with  connection  at 
Poplar  street  to  Southport),  out  Carrollton  avenue  to  New 
Canal  to  Tulane  avenue.  Rampart  street  to  Canal  street. 
Returns  via  same  route. 

South  Peters  street.  From  Canal  street  up  Tchoupitoulas 
and  Annunciation  streets  to  Toledano  street,  connection  with 
cars  up  Tchoupitoulas  street  to  Audubon  Park.  Returns  via 
Chippewa,  Annunciation  and  S.  Peters  streets  to  Canal  street. 

Tchoupitoidas  Street.  From  Canal  street  up  Tchoupitoulas 
street  to  Audubon  Park.  Returns  via  Tchoupitoulas  and  S. 
Peters  to  Canal  street. 

Villere  Street.  From  Canal  street  down  Villere  street  to 
Lafayette  avenue.    Returns  up  Villere  street  to  Canal  street. 

West  End  Train.  Out  Canal  street  to  Cemeteries  and 
Metairie  Park  avenue,  down  north  side  of  New  Canal  to  West 
End.     Returns  via  same  route. 

SUBURBAN   TRAINS. 

West  End.  Starting  point  on  the  neutral  ground  corner 
Canal  and  Baronne  streets. 


Directions  for  the  Tourist.  81 

Old  Lake  (Milneburg.)  Starting  point  on  the  neutral 
ground  corner  Elysian  Fields  and  Chartres  streets. 

Spanish  Fort.  Starting  point  on  the  neutral  ground  corner 
Canal  and  Basin  streets. 

Chalmette  Battle  Ground  (Jackson's  battlefield  of  New 
Orleans.)  Starting  point  on  the  neutral  ground  corner 
Elysian  Fields  and  Claiborne  avenue. 

Shell  Beach  Railroad.  Starting  point  corner  Elysian  Fields 
and  St.  Claude  streets,  to  Shell  Beach  (20  miles)  on  Lake 
Borgne. 

STEAM  FERRIES. 

First  District  Ferry.  From  Canal  street  to  Algiers.  Fare, 
5  cents. 

Second  District  Ferry.  From  the  French  Market  to  Algiers. 
Fare,  5  cents. 

Third  District  Ferry.  From  Esplanade  avenue  depot  to 
Algiers.    Fare,  5  cents. 

Fourth  District  Ferry.  From  Jackson  avenue  to  Gretna. 
Fare,  5  cents. 

Sixth  District  Ferry.  From  Louisiana  avenue  to  Harvey'? 
Canal.    Fare,  5  cents. 

SKIFF    FERRIES. 

Upperline  Ferry.  Upperline  street  to  Millaudon  (Ames) 
sugar  plantation.    Fare,  10  cents. 

Carrollton  Ferry.  Carrollton  to  Nine  Mile  Point  and 
Orange  Groves.    Fare,  10  cents. 

Slaughter  House  Ferry.  U.  S.  Barracks  to  Algiers  shore. 
Fare,  10  cents. 

CAR  EXCURSIONS. 

No.  1.  To  the  Lake  End  (West  End)  and  Cemeteries, 
Electric  trains.    Fare,  round  trip,  15  cents. 


82  New  Orleans  Guide. 

No.  2.  To  Spanish  Fort.  Steam  trains.  Fare,  round  trip, 
15  cents. 

No.  3.  To  Milneburg  (Old  Lake).  Steam  trains.  Fare, 
round  trip,  15  cents. 

No.  4.  To  Jackson's  Battlefield  of  Chalmette.  Steam 
train. 

No.  5.  To  U.  S.  Barracks,  Slaughter  Houses,  Battlefield, 
Battle  Monument,  and  Chalmette  Cemetery.  Fare  5  cents 
each  way. 

No.  6.  To  Bayou  Bridge  and  Old  City  Park.  Fare,  5  cents 
each  way. 

No.  7.  To  Ice  Works,  Water  Works,  Cotton  Presses.  Fare, 
5  cents  each  way. 

No.  8.  To  Millaudon's  Sugar  Plantation.  Cars,  5  cents 
each  way.    Ferry,  10  cents. 

No.  9.  To  Carroll  ton  by  steamboat  (sometimes  the  boats 
will  stop),  return  by  cars. 

No.  10.  Over  Claiborne  Street  Railroad  lines.  Fare,  5 
cents  each  way. 

No.  11.  To  Steamship  Landing,  Jackson  avenue  cars.  Fare, 
5  cents  each  way. 

No.  12.  To  Louisiana  Retreat  (Insane  Asylum),  by  Coli- 
seum cars.    Fare,  5  cents  each  way. 

No.  13.  To  Fair  Crounds  (Race  Course).  Fare,  5  cents 
each  way. 

PROMENADES. 

No.  1.  Down  Chartres  street  to  Jackson  Square  and  across 
to  the  French  Market,  down  Levee  to  the  Mint  on  Esplanade 
avenue.  Up  Chartres  street  to  the  old  Convent  (Archbishop's 
Palace) .  Thence  into  Royal  street.  Up  Royal  street  to  Canal 
street. 

No.  2.  On  Canal  street  to  the  Custom  House  and  to  the 
Steamboat  Landing  at  the  head  of  Canal  street.  Walk  on  the 
Levee. 

No.  3.  Up  St.  Charles  street  to  the  City  Hall  on  Lafayette 
Square,  thence  to  the  Lee  Monument,  then  turning  into  Camp 
street  and  down  this  street  to  Canal  street. 

No.  4.  Take  Prytania  ears  and  get  out  at  Jackson  avenue. 
Up  Prytania  street  to  Eighth  street,  visiting,  en  route,  Wash- 
ington street  Cemetery,  and  down  St.  Charles  avenue  to  Jack- 
son avenue,  and  from  there  take  cars  to  Canal  street. 


Directions  for  the  Tourist.  83 

No.  5.  Down  Bourbon  street  to  French  Opera  House, 
thence  to  Orleans  street.  Out  Orleans  street  to  Beauregard 
Square  (Congo)  to  the  Old  Basin.  Cross  the  Canal  to  the 
streets  leading  to  the  old  St.  Louis  Cemetery.  Thence  to  Canal 
street. 

No.  6.  Out  Tulane  avenue  to  the  Criminal  Court  and 
Parish  Prison  and  to  the  Charity  Hospital,  thence  to  Canal 
street  and  back  to  Royal  and  St.  Charles  streets. 

No.  7.  Out  Canal  street  to  Claiborne  avenue,  thence  to  the 
three  old  Catholic  Cemeteries  and  the  Carondelet  Canal. 
Cross  the  Canal  to  Orleans  street  to  the  Treme  Market,  Beaure- 
gard (Congo)  Square,  cross  the  square  to  Rampart  street,  up 
Rampart  street  to  Canal  street. 

DRIVES. 

A  General  Drive. 

Up  St.  Charles  avenue  to  CarroUton  avenue.  Down  Carroll- 
ton  avenue  to  the  New  Canal,  down  New  Canal  shellroad  to  the 
Lake.  Return  up  New  Canal  shellroad  to  Half- Way  House  to 
City  Park  avenue  (old  Metairie  Road).  Down  City  Park  ave- 
nue to  Bayou  Bridge,  to  Esplanade  avenue,  up  Esplanade 
avenue  to  the  river,  up  the  river,  passing  the  French  Market. 
Jackson  Square  and  the  Cathedral,  up  the  Levee  and  Sugar 
Landing  to  the  Customhouse  on  Canal  street. 

Drive  No.  1. 

Up  St.  Charles  avenue  to  CarroUton,  down  CarroUton 
avenue  shell  road  to  New  Canal.  Down  New  Canal  shell  road 
to  Half  Way  House,  cross  the  New  Canal  to  City  Park  avenue 
(old  Metairie  Road),  passing  the  Cemeteries  and  to  Canal 
street. 

Drive  No.  2. 

Out  Canal  street  to  the  Half  Way  House.  Down  shell  road 
to  Lake.    Return  same  way. 

Drive  No.  3. 

Down  Chartres  street,  passing  old  houses,  to  Esplanade 
avenue.  Out  Esplanade  avenue  to  Bayou  Bridge.  Down  the 
Shellroad  to  Spanish  Port.  Return  via  splanade  and  Broad 
streets. 


84  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Drive  No.  4. 

Down  the  Levee  to  U.  S.  Barracks,  passing  the  French 
Market,  the  Mint,  the  Slaughter  Houses,  National  Cemetery, 
Battle  Field  and  Battle  Monument  at  Chalmette.  Return  via 
Dauphine  and  Rampart  streets. 

Drive  No.  5. 

Up  Magazine  to  First  street.  Down  First  street  to  St. 
Charles  avenue.  Up  St.  Charles  avenue  to  Washington  avenut^. 
Down  Washington  avenue  to  New  Canal  shell  road.  Up 
Tulane  avenue  to  St.  Charles  Hotel. 

Drive  No.  6. 

Out  Canal  street  to  Broad  street  shell  road.  Down  Broad 
street  to  Esplanade  avenue.  Down  Esplanade  avenue,  passing 
Race  Track,  thence  across  Bayou  St.  John,  up  City  Park 
avenue,  passing  City  Park,  to  Canal  street,  then  up  Canal 
street. 

Drive  No.  7. 

Out  Canal  street  to  Levee.  Down  the  Levee  to  Esplanade 
avenue.  Out  Esplanade  avenue  to  Rampart  street.  Up  Ram- 
part street  to  Canal  street. 

EXCURSIONS  OUT  OF  THE  CITY. 

Lake  Shore.  To  Bay  St.  Louis  (53  miles),  Pass  Christian 
(59  niiles),  Biloxi  (81  miles),  watering  places  along  the  Gu]C 
of  Mexico  (see  L.  &  N.  Route). 

Mandeville  and  Covington.  Pontchartrain  Railroad  to  Mil- 
neburg,  thence  by  steamboat  across  Lake  Pontchartrain  to 
Mandeville  and  up  Tchefuncta  River.  A  pleasant,  trip  and 
semi-tropical  scenery  on  the  river.  Round  trip,  $1.00.  Time, 
one  day.     See  daily  papers. 

The  Teche  Counry.  Steamboat  from  New  Orleans  (see 
newspapers)  via  the  Atchafalaya  and  the  Teche.  A  beautiful 
trip  up  Bayou  Teche,  the  land  of  Longfellow's  Evangeline. 

Bayou  Lafourche.  Up  the  Mississippi  River  (for  boats  see 
newspapers)  to  Donaldsonville,  thence  down  Bayou  Lafourche 
to  Thibodeaux  and  return  to  the  city  by  the  Southern  Pacific 


Directions  for  the  Tourist.  85 

Railroad.     A  pleasant  excursion  of  two  days  through  large 
sugar  plantations. 

Baton  Bouge.  By  the  Mississippi  Valley  (see  M.  V.  route) 
to  Baton  Rouge,  the  State  Capital,  through  large  sugar  planta- 
tions, a  veritable  rich  garden  of  rice  and  sugar.  89  miles. 
Time,  3  hours. 

The  Jetties.  By  the  Lower  Coast  Packets  (see  newspapers;. 
Time,  12  hours,  or  by  the  N.  0.  Fort  Jackson  and  Grand  Isle 
Railroad  to  terminus,  thence  by  mail  packet  to  Port  Eads 
(mouth  of  South  Pass) .    Time,  8  hours. 

Mobile.  To  Mobile  and  its  pretty  environs  by  the  L.  &  N. 
Railroad.     (141  miles.) 

Beaumont  Oil  Fields.  Take  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  to 
Beaumont,  Texas  (278  miles),  and  thence  by  carriage  (50 
cents  round  trip )  to  the  wells  two  miles  distant. 

Central  America.  Round  trip  excursions  to  Puerto  Cortez 
and  other  ports  of  Central  America  by  the  United  Fruit  Com- 
pany's steamers  (office  521  St.  Charles  street).  To  Puerto 
Cortez  with  stop  over  at  Belize  (British  Honduras).  Puerto 
Barrios  and  Livingston,  Guatemala.  Every  Thursday.  Round 
trip,  $50.00.  To  Puerto  Limon,  Costa  Rica,  every  Friday. 
Round  trip,  $80.00. 

Mexico.  To  the  City  of  Mexico  and  cities  en  route  via 
Southern  Pacific  Railroad  and  connections.  Round  trip  ex- 
cursions, $59.00,  good  for  nine  months.  Time  to  the  City  of 
Mexico,  3  days. 

Porto  Bico.  To  San  Juan,  Mayagez  and  Ponce  around  Porto 
Rico.  For  rates  and  dates  of  sailing  inquire  at  office  619  Com- 
mon street. 

Havana.  To  Havana  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Morgan  Line. 
For  dates  of  sailing  and  rates  inquire  at  Southern  Pacific 
Railroad  office. 


86  New  Orleans  Guide. 


New  Orleans. 


The  city  of  New  Orleans,  sometimes  called  the  "Crescent 
City,"  from  the  crescent  shape  curve  of  its  river  front,  was 
founded  by  Bienville  in  1718,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Missis- 
sippi River.  The  site  chosen  was  the  high  land  situated 
between  the  river  and  the  head  waters  of  Bayou  St.  John,  a 
stream  which  rises  in  the  rear  of  the  city  and  flows  into  Lake 
Pontchartrain.  The  present  limits  of  the  city,  on  the  East 
bank,  extend  from  the  suburb  of  Carrollton  to  the  Rigolets 
(the  stream  connecting  lakes  Pontchartrain  and  Borgne)  near 
the  line  of  the  L.  &  N.  (Mobile)  Railroad  and  from  the  river 
to  the  lake.  On  the  West  bank,  from  Gretna  to  the  English 
turn,  15  miles  below  the  city.  The  total  area  of  the  city  is 
about  105  square  miles,  with  a  front  of  over  twelve  miles  on 
the  East  bank  of  the  river.  On  the  West  bank  the  former 
suburb  of  Algiers  has  been  annexed  to  the  city.  The  least  dis- 
tance from  the  river  to  the  lake  is  at  the  head  of  Elysian 
Fields  stret,  at  which  point  it  is  about  four  miles.  This 
vast  area  of  territory  is  not  densely  populated,  except 
along  the  river  bank,  and  the  portion  built  up  extends  generally 
to  about  two  miles  back  from  the  river.  The  city  has  many 
miles  of  streets,  of  which  twenty-two  are  paved  with  square 
block  stone  and  several  miles  of  asphalt. 

According  to  the  census  of  1900,  the  total  population  is 
287,104,  of  which  209,381  are  white  and  77,723  colored,  but  the 
total  population  of  the  city  and  its  suburbs  is  302,425  and  in 
Winter  may  be  estimated  at  350,000.  The  centre  portion  of 
the  city  is  built  of  brick  and  stone,  but  outside  of  certain  pre- 
scribed limits  wooden  buildings  are  erected.  This  custom  of 
building  in  wood  is  generally  confined  to  the  erection  of 
dwellings,  and  in  this  way  some  of  the  finest  quarters  are  en- 
tirely built  of  wood.  As  the  climate  is  damp,  wooden  dwellings 
are  generally  preferred,  as  they  are  considered  drier  than 
those  of  brick.  The  streets  of  the  city  are  several  feet  below 
the  level  of  the  river,  and  the  stranger  is  at  once  struck  by  the 
novel  sight  of  the  surface  water  running  from  the  river. 
Owing  to  the  marshy  soil  of  the  city  underground  sewerage  is 


88  New  Orleans  Guide. 

not  in  use,  and  surface  drainage  at  present  carries  off  all  the 
sewerage.  The  drainage  works,  recently  erected,  have  lowered 
the  moisture  line  and  the  city  is  now  being  sewered  at  a  cost  of 
several  millions  of  dollars.  The  land  slopes  gradually  towards 
the  rear,  and  midway  is  a  ridge  of  land,  called  the  Metairie 
Ridge,  four  feet  high,  created  in  former  times  by  the  waters  of 
the  lake  and  river  meeting  together.  Beyond  the  Metairie 
Ridge  a  great  marsh  extends,  which  is  now  surrounded  by 
levees.  The  gutters  of  the  city  gradually  slope  towards  the 
centre  of  the  basin  formed  by  the  high  land  on  the  river  bank 
and  the  ridge.  At  this  centre-point  the  gutters  empty  their 
contents  into  large  canals,  at  the  end  of  which  powerful  drain- 
age apparatus  pump  the  contents  into  canals  discharging  into 
the  lake.  This  system  of  drainage  does  very  well,  except  when 
the  East  winds  blow  the  waters  of  the  Gulf  into  the  lake  and 
cause  the  lake  to  rise  and  the  canals  to  fill  up.  Bayou  St.  John 
being  the  natural  drain  of  the  site,  its  ramifications  can  be  seen 
on  each  side  of  the  Canal  street  shellroad,  and  the  engineers 
have  followed  out  these  lines,  traced  by  nature,  by  digging,  in 
all  low  places,  canals  leading  to  the  lake.  The  whole  rear  por- 
tion of  the  city,  except  the  ridge,  was  at  one  time  a  vast  swamp 
filled  with  gigantic  cypress  trees,  and  only  a  few  years  ago  the 
trees  extended  as  far  up  as  Claiborne  street,  fifteen  squares 
from  the  river.  This  peculiar  system  of  drainage,  and  the  sin- 
gular position  of  the  city  and  the  curving  of  the  river, 
upsets  all  preconceived  ideas  of  location  and  drainage.  In  New 
Orleans  the  upper  side  of  the  street  is  the  south  side  and  the 
lower  side  the  north,  for  the  river  in  front  of  the  city  makes  a 
sharp  curve,  flowing  to  the  north.  The  city  is  regularly  laid 
out  in  squares,  with  narrow  streets  and  several  wide  avenues. 
The  original  city  comprised  that  part  lying  between  Canal 
street  and  Esplanade  avenue,  the  River  and  Rampart  streets. 
This  portion  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  and  fortified  (see  for- 
tifications in  the  Outlines  of  the  History  of  Louisiana).  The 
wall  or  rampart  was  three  feet  high,  surmounted  by  a  palisade 
of  cypress  12  feet  high.  Outside  of  this  was  a  ditch  forty  feet 
wide  and  seven  deep.  At  the  end  of  the  ramparts,  where  the 
Custom  House  now  stands,  was  Fort  St.  Louis.  At  the  corner 
of  Rampart  and  Canal  streets  was  Fort  Burgundy,  and  on 
Orleans  street  where  Beauregard  square  now  is  laid  off,  was 
Fort  St.  Ferdinand.  At  the  angle  of  Rampart  and  Esplanade 
streets  was  Fort  St.  John,  and  the  whole  circuit  was  completed 


OLD    BUILDINGS  — FRENCH    QUARTER. 


90  New  Orleans  Guide. 

by  Fort  St.  Charles,  where  the  U.  S.  Mint  now  stands,  a  large 
and  well-built  work,  commanding  the  river.  The  streets  of 
this  old  city  were  made  narrow,  as  in  all  hot  climates,  to  secure 
shade,  and  were  named  in  honor  of  the  Royal  family  of  France. 
Thus,  we  have  the  main  street  called  Rue  Royale,  the  other 
streets  called  Bourbon  street  after  the  dynasty,  Chartres  street 
after  the  title  of  the  eldest  of  the  Orleans  princes ;  Dauphinc 
street  after  the  Dauphiness  of  France;  St.  Louis  street  after 
the  patron  saint  of  France;  Conti  street  after  the  Princes  .: 
Conti;  Toulouse  and  Dumaine  streets  after  the  illegitimate 
sons  of  Louis  XIV  and  Madame  de  Montespan,  the  Count  de 
Toulouse  and  the  Duke  du  Maine;  St.  Ann,  St.  Peter's  and  S"t. 
Philip  streets  after  the  baptismal  names  of  the  princes  of  the 
House  of  Orleans.  When  the  Americans  took  possession,  the 
fortifications  were  leveled  and  the  town  commenced  to  spread 
out.  The  little  suburbs,  or  faubourgs,  as  they  were  called, 
were  gradually  annexed  until  the  city  has  attained  its  present 
^reat  area.  The  suburb  on  the  lower  side  belonged  to  Baron  de 
Marigny-Mandeville  and  was  laid  off  into  streets,  which  were 
named  in  a  fanciful  manner,  as  Love,  Greatmen  and  Good- 
children  streets.  The  upper  suburbs  were  laid  off  by  classic 
loving  Americans,  and  the  streets  were  named  after  the  muses, 
nymphs  and  mythological  deities.  Thus  we  have  Dryades, 
Nyades,  Clio,  Thalia,  Erato,  Euterpe,  and  many  others. 
Another  person  liking  the  manner  of  naming  the  streets  nu- 
merically introduced  First,  Second,  etc.,  while  another,  a  great 
admirer  of  Napoleon,  named  many  of  the  streets  of  his  suburb 
after  the  generals  and  victories  of  that  great  soldier  and  so  we 
have  Cambronne,  Marengo,  Austerlitz,  Jena,  etc.  All  nation- 
alities are  represented  among  the  population,  but  the  two  most 
distinct  classes  are  the  Creoles  and  Americans,  the  former  liv- 
ing mostly  below  Canal  street,  and  the  latter  above.  Canal 
street  seems  to  be  the  dividing  line  and  there  are  many  Creoles 
who  have  never  crossed  that  line.  The  change  from  the  Ameri- 
can portion  to  that  of  the  Creole  is  very  sudden,  and  in  pene- 
trating into  the  quarter  below  Canal  street,  the  stranger  goes, 
as  it  were,  into  another  city.  The  signs  are  in  French,  and  the 
names  of  the  streets  also,  while  French  is  heard  on  all  sides. 
Among  the  lower  classes  and  negroes  a  patois,  difficult  to  under- 
stand and  composed  of  a  mixture  of  French  and  Spanish,  h 
spoken.    The  steady  advance  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  is  grad- 


CHARTRES  STREET, 


92  New  Orleans  Guide. 

ually  driving  the  French  language  out,  so  that  in  a  few  years, 
it  will  have  died  out  entirely.  Still,  it  is  found  necessary  to 
publish  the  laws  in  French,  and  it  is  essential  for  one  who  lives 
in  the  lower  quarter,  to  be  familiar  with  French.  New  Orleans 
is  one  of  the  principal  ports  of  the  United  States,  and  its  ex- 
ports are  very  large.  It  is  the  great  cotton  port  of  the  world 
and  it  receives  from  the  interior  and  exports  annually  nearly 
two  million  bales. 

The  city  has,  during  the  last  few  years,  made  great  progress. 
New  modern  hotels  have  been  erected  and  sky-scraping  office 
buildings  have  been  built.  Many  streets  have  been  asphalted 
and  repaved  with  a  Rosetta  gravel  that  concretes  naturally, 
and  thus  whole  quarters  of  the  city  have  been  improved. 
Handsome  modern  houses  of  the  villa  style  are  found  on  all 
sides.  Manufactories  have  increased,  and  although  some  of 
the  cotton  trade  may  have  been  lost  by  the  erection  of  com- 
presses in  the  interior  towns,  still  the  commerce  of  the  port  has 
grown  larger,  until  to-day  it  has  become  not  only  the  greatest 
cotton  port  in  the  world,  but  the  second  grain  exporting  city 
of  the  United  States. 


A  Walk  in  the  Old  Cn;Y.  93 

A  Walk  in  the  Old  City. 


New  Orleans  is,  perhaps,  the  most  interesting  city  in  the 
United  States  on  account  of  its  cosmopolitan  character,  its 
quaint  old  houses,  its  narrow  streets  and  especially  is  the  old 
cite,  between  Canal  and  Esplanade  avenues,  with  its  shops  and 
French  signs.  In  fact  it  resembles  Rouen  or  some  old  city 
of  France  planted  on  American  soil  and  surrounded  by  a 
modern  American  city  with  its  tall  buildings,  big  hotels  and 
rush  of  business,  so,  therefore,  a  walk  through  the  old  cite  is 
the  most  interesting  sight  of  New  Orleans. 

The  tourist,  starting  from  the  corner  of  Canal  and  Royal 
streets,  passes  down  the  Rue  Royale,  the  main  street  of  the  old 
cite  and  immediately  notices  the  change.  The  first  square,  with 
its  bar-rooms,  restaurants,  billiard  halls  and  sporting 
houses  is  the  Monte  Carlo  of  New  Orleans ;  then  Customhouse 
street  is  passed  and  gradually  the  street,  its  denizens  and 
shops  assume  a  foreign  air.  The  signs  are  in  French  and  the 
goods  offered  for  saJe  are  somewhat  different  from  those  in  the 
American  portion.  Antique  and  bric-a-brac  shops  abound  on 
all  sides. 

At  No.  120  Royal  street  is  the  famous  Sazarac  Saloon,  cele- 
brated for  a  special  kind  of  cocktail.  At  No.  124  the  white 
stone  building  was  formerly  the  Auctioneers'  Exchange  and 
the  upper  part  was  used  for  many  years  as  a  U.  S.  Court 
Room  in  which  General  Walker,  the  celebrated  American 
filibuster,  was  tried  for  a  violation  of  the  neutrality  laws.  He 
was  defended  by  the  Hon.  Pierre  Soule,  a  famous  French 
political  refugee,  and  acquitted,  but  later  w^as  taken  prisoner 
and  shot  to  death  in  Central  America.  At  the  corner  of  Cus- 
tomhouse street  is  an  old  granite  bank  now  used  as  a  Turf 
Exchange.  On  Customhouse  street  Lopez  organized,  in  1851, 
his  famous  ill-fated  Cuban  expedition  in  which  many 
Americans  were  killed. 

At  the  corner  of  Royal  and  Conti  streets,  on  the  river  corner, 
surrounded  by  heavy  iron  railings,  is  an  old  bank  whose 
capital  was  swept  away  by  the  Civil  War  and  the  building  is 
now  used  as  the  Mortgage  and  Conveyance  Office.     Opposite, 


ENTRANCE — FRENCH    QUARTER. 


A  Walk  in  the  Old  City. 


95 


on  the  upper  woods  corner,  stands  the  building  of  the  former 
Bank  of  the  United  States. 

At  No.  404  is  the  house  occupied  by  General  Jackson  during? 
the  British  invasion  of  1814-15.  At  No.  417  is  the  old  Bank  of 
Louisiana,  the  second  bank  organized  in  the  United  States,  and 
the  first  in  the  Mississippi  Valley,  a  curious  ancient  building 
with  a  typical  Creole  courtyard.  At  the  corner  of  St.  Louis 
street  is  the  former  Hotel  Royal,  in  the  rotunda  of  which  slaves 
were,  in  former  times,  auctioned  off.  At  No.  517  Royal  street, 
where  there  is  an  archway  with  a  quaint  courtyard  and  with 
cannons  imbedded  in  the  sidewalk,  is  the  old  Spanish  Comand- 
ancia,ov  headquarters,  and  where  the  last  Spanish  sentinel  was 
stationed.  Near  by,  on  St.  Louis  street,  is  Antoine^s,  a  restau- 
rant famous  for  its  Creole  cooking,  snails,  bisque  soup  and 


J>x-4ar  oj^  JV47U'  OxtxjiAifS  ,n,17rO,byQipt'\PUtman,flieBnbskAnny      '       ^ 


fie&reivces 


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PLAN  OF  NEW  ORLEANS  IN  1770. 


other  delicacies  much  prized  by  gourmets.  Passing  along  the 
front  of  the  Hotel  Royal  the  corner  of  Chartres  street  is 
reached,  where,  at  No.  502  Chartres  street,  is  the  building 
erected  for  the  Emperor  Napoleon  by  an  admirer  who  wished 
the  Emperor  to  take  refuge  in  Louisiana. 

Passing  down  Chartres  street,  among  dilapidated  houses  and 
hotels,  the  wrecks  of  former  times,  Toulouse  street  is  reached. 


96  New  Orleans  Guide. 

This  street  was,  in  1837,  the  centre  of  the  city's  life  and 
near  by  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  Citizens'  Bank  building. 
Jackson  Square  is  now  reached  and  the  old  ^' Place/'  as  it 
was  familiarly  known,  is  entered.  On  the  woods  upper  corner, 
No.  639  Chartres  street,  is  the  old  hotel,  the  first  built  in  the 
Mississippi  Valley.  The  Cabildo  (see  Cabildo)  is  on  one 
corner,  and  with  the  Cathedral  (see  Churches)  and  the  long 
rows  of  red  brick  Pontalba  buildings,  belonging  to  the  heirs  of 
Baroness  de  Pontalba,  form  a  noble  setting  to  Jackson  Square 
(see  Parks  and  Squares).  Crossing  the  square  to  the  river's 
side  the  great  Mississippi  is  seen  as  it  makes  a  grand  sweep 
around  the  opposite  point  of  land  of  Algiers,  making  a  cres- 
cent-shape bend  at  this  place  which  has  given  to  New  Orleans 
the  name  of  the  Crescent  City. 

The  French  Market  is  passed,  then  the  Lugger  Landing,  the 
Vegetable  Market  and  the  Fish  Market.  Continuing  on  Espla- 
nade avenue  is  reached  at  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  Depot. 
The  New  Orleans  Mint  (formerly  Fort  St.  Charles,  the  lower 
end  of  the  fortification  of  the  city)  stands  at  the  head  of  Espla- 
Esplanade  avenue,  which  forms  the  old  town  line  (esplanade) 
of  the  fortifications  demolished  about  1806  (see  Mint).  Turn- 
ing into  Royal  street,  at  No.  1140  Royal  street,  is  the  so-called 
' '  haunted  house, ' '  to  which  local  tradition  has  attached  several 
doubtful  stories  and  legends.  Thence  into  Hospital  street,  so 
named  from  the  hospital  that  was  located  that  was  located 
there  in  olden  days,  Chartres  street  is  reached,  where, 
at  the  corner  of  Barracks  street,  is  a  building  with  a 
pillared  gallery,  the  last  vestige  of  the  Spanish  Bar- 
racks within  which  the  Louisiana  martyrs  were  shot  to  death 
in  1769  by  Gov.  Don  Alexandro  0  'Reilly.  Thence  up  Chartres 
street,  past  the  Archepiscopal  Palace  at  the  corner  of  Ursu- 
lines  street  (see  Archbishop's  residence)  to  Dumaine  street. 
At  No.  628  Dumaine  sireet  stands  the  house  which,  in  Cable's 
novels,  was  bequeathed  by  Mr.  John  of  the  Good  Children's 
Social  Club  to  "Zalli"  and  ''Tite  Poulette."  Thence  on  up 
Royal  street,  passing  Rue  St.  Philippe,  where  stood  the  Theatre 
St.  Philippe,  mentioned  in  the  first  chapter  of  Cable's  "Grand- 
issimes. ' '  Thence  up  Royal  street  past  the  Place  St.  Antoine,  in 
the  rear  of  the  Cathedral,  St.  Peter  street  is  reached,  where  at 
the  corner  (No.  638  Royal  street)  is  Cable's  Sieur  George's 
wonderful  four-story  mansion.  Passing  out  St.  Peter  street 
(from  the  river)  four  squares  Rampart  street  is  reached, which 


CHESSj   CHECKERS  AND  WHIST   CLUB. 


98  New  Orleans  Guide. 

formed  the  rear  line  of  the  old  fortifications,  and  Beauregard 
Square,  formerly  Congo  Square.  Here,  before  the  Civil  War, 
the  negroes  were  accustomed  to  assemble  on  Sunday  after- 
noons to  dance  the  Congo  dances  to  the  music  of  a  rude  drum 
made  of  a  hide  stretched  over  a  barrel  head  and  to  the  rattling 
of  a  piece  of  bone  on  the  old  jaw-bone  of  a  dead  animal.  Here 
also  Bras  Coupe,  a  runaway  negro  and  soi  disant  African 
Prince,  converted  into  a  hero  by  Cable,  was  lassoed  in  the 
midst  of  the  Congo  dances. 

Moving  upwards  towards  Canal  street  the  head  of  the  "Old 
Basin,"  or  Canal  Carondelet  is  reached.  This  canal,  con- 
structed by  Gov.  Baron  de  Carondelet,  leads  into  Bayou  St. 
John,  which  empties  into  Lake  Pontchartrain  six  miles  distant. 
Then  the  old  St.  Louis  Cemetery  is  passed  (see  Cemeteries) 
with  its  curious  tombs,  the  oldest  in  the  city,  and  thence  back 
to  Rampart  street  the  church  of  St.  Anthony  is  seen,  and  to 
Canal  street,  four  squares,  the  tourist  has  completed  the  circle 
of  the  walls  of  the  old  cite. 


FRENCH  OPERA  HOUSE. 


100  New  Orleans  Guide. 


Sights  of  the  City  and  Miscellaneous 
Information. 


AMUSEMENTS. 


French  Opera  House. 

Corner  Bourbon  and  Toulouse  streets.  Take  Carondelet  cars  on  Canal 
street  to  Toulouse  street,  four  squares  distant. 

The  French  Opera  House,  erected  in  1860,  after  a  design  by 
Gallier,  a  celebrated  architect,  is  an  immense  structure  of 
brick,  in  the  shape  of  a  gridiron.  The  centre  part  is  the 
theatre  proper  or  ^Ha  salle,"  as  it  is  called,  with  a  small 
courtyard  on  each  side,  and  on  the  outside,  two  wings  devoted 
to  dressing  rooms  and  administration  offices.  Entering  by  a 
spacious  lobby,  the  various  staircases  are  reached,  leading  to 
the  different  parts  of  the  house.  The  theatre  is  oval-shaped, 
with  the  oval  side  towards  the  stage,  which  gives  an  extraor- 
dinary breadth  to  the  auditorium.  The  house  has  five  tiers, 
and,  as  in  France,  the  pit  is  called  ' '  le  parquet, ' '  the  dress  cir- 
cle "les  loges,"  the  balcony  "les  secondes"  or  ''balcon,"  the 
third  tier  '*les  troisiemes, "  and  the  fourth  tier  "les  quatri- 
emes,"  or  popularly  called  "le  paradis"  (paradise).  In  the 
rear  of  the  open  boxes  are  boxes  called  "les  grillees,"  with 
lattices  (grilles),  and  on  the  parquet  floor  are  the  "baignoires 
grillees"  (literally  translated,  grated  bath-tubs).  The  deco- 
rations of  the  house  are  in  white,  gold  and  crimson,  and  the 
big  horse-shoe-shaped  auditorium,  lighted  up  with  electricity 
and  crowded  on  fashionable  nights  with  ladies  and  gentlemen 
in  full  evening  dress,  forms  a  brilliant  picture  seldom  seen 
elsewhere.  The  fashionable  nights  are  Tuesdays  and  Satur- 
days, on  which  occasion  all  who  go  in  the  boxes  attend  in  full 
evening  costume.  In  the  rear  of  the  auditorium  is  the  ' '  foyer, ' ' 
a  large  saloon  used  for  promenades  between  the  acts,  and,  at 
times,  for  concerts.  The  stage  is  very  large  and  lofty,  and 
arranged  to  give  great  scenic  effects  in  rendering  grand 
operas. 


GRAND  OPERA  HOUSE. 


102  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Prices  :  25,  35,  50  and  75  cents,  $1,  $1.50,  $2,  $2.50.  Boxes 
and  baignoires  at  different  prices,  according  to  location. 

TuLANE  Theatre. 

No.  149  Baronne  street.     Seating  capacity  18'00. 

The  Tulane  Theatre  is  the  leading  dramatic  theatre  in  the 
city  and  the  most  fashionable.  It  was  erected  a  few  years  ago 
on  a  plan  by  Sully,  with  all  the  most  modern  improvements. 
Entering  from  an  arcade,  the  theatre  is  reached  by  a  pretty 
lobby  and  the  decorations  of  blue  and  gold  give  a  delicate  air 
of  refinement  to  the  place. 

Prices  :   25,  50,  75  cents,  $1  and  $1.50. 

Crescent  Theatre. 

No.  149  Baronne  street.     Seating  capacity  1800. 

The  Crescent  Theatre,  one  of  the  twin  theatres  on  Baronne 
street,  is  a  popular  place  of  amusement,  designed  by  Sully, 
and  which  is  entered  from  the  arcade.  The  theatre  was  built 
a  few  years  ago  and  is  modern  in  all  its  appointments.  The 
interior  decoration  of  cream  color  and  gold  gives  a  pleasing 
appearance  to  the  house.  The  plays  rendered  are  melodramas 
at  popular  prices. 

Prices  :  15,  25,  35,  50  and  75  cents. 

Grand  Opera  House. 

No.  919  Canal  street.     Seating  capacity  1700. 

The  Grand  Opera  House,  formerly  called  the  Varieties  The- 
atre, was  erected  a  few  years  ago  after  plans  of  Harrod,  and 
for  many  years  was  the  most  fashionable  and  leading  dra- 
matic theatre  in  the  city.  The  theatre  proper  stands  some 
distance  back  from  Canal  street,  which  affords  space  for  a 
grand  staircase,  perhaps  the  most  magnificent  in  the  United 
States,  with  its  broad  flight  of  monumental  stairs  and  clusters 
of  lights.  The  interior  is  bright  and  airy  with  white  and  gold 
decorations.  The  building  was  erected  by  La  Variete  Associa- 
tion, a  club  of  gentlemen,  which  has  its  club  rooms  under  the 
parquette  and  seats  within  a  railing  in  the  rear  of  the  orches- 
tra. Good  standard  plays  are  given  and  the  theatre  has  re- 
tained its  popularity. 

Prices  :    10,  20,  30  and  50  cents. 


104  New  Orleans  Guid£. 

St.  Charles  Orpheum. 

No.  422  St.  Charles  street.     Seating  capacity  3000. 

This  theatre,  devoted  to  variety  specialties,  was  erected  in 
1902,  after  plans  of  Favrot  &  Livaudais,  on  the  site  of  the 
famous  old  St.  Charles  Theatre,  in  which  had  appeared  in 
former  years  all  the  most  celebrated  actors  in  tragedy  and 
drama.  The  new  theatre,  the  second  largest  in  the  city,  has  a 
beautiful  interior  of  white  and  gold,  comfortable  opera  chairs 
and  the  most  modern  arrangements  against  fire,  and  is  a  thor- 
oughly equipped  place  of  amusement. 

Prices:    10,  25  and  30  cents. 

Audubon  Theatre. 

No.  412  St.  Charles  street.     Seating  capacity  1200. 

Audubon  Theatre,  formerly  called  the  Academy  of  Music,  is 
devoted  to  dramas  and  society  plays,  and  maintains  its  old 
popularity  since  its  renovation. 

Prices  :   10,  20,  30  and  50  cents. 

Halls. 

Washington  Artillery  Hall— No.  737  St.  Charles  street. 
Athenaeum— No.  1205  St.  Charles  avenue. 
Odd  Fellows'  Hall— No.  532  Camp  street. 
Tulane  Hall— No.  134  University  Place. 

Gambling. 

Some  years  ago,  during  the  Republican  regime,  public 
gambling  was  allowed  and  licensed.  The  games  were  operated 
openly  on  the  ground  floor  of  stores  as  if  the  business  was  of 
merchandise.  Public  sentiment  forced  the  repeal  of  the  law, 
and  since  then  gambling  is  carried  on  secretly  on  Canal  street 
and  adjacent  streets.  At  the  Carroll  ton  Protection  Levee  and 
at  Bucktown  open  gambling  is  carried  on. 

Pool  Rooms. 

On  Royal,  Carondelet,  Gravier  and  other  streets  pool  Tooms 
are  conducted  openly,  where  pools  on  the  races  are  sold. 


AUDUBON    THEATRE, 


106  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Cock  Pits. 

At  the  Carroll  ton  Protection  Levee  (take  St.  Charles  ave- 
nue cars)  is  the  Cock-pit,  where  mains  take  place  at  3  p.  m. 
Sunday. 

Keno  Rooms. 

At  Carrollton  Protection  Levee  (take  St.  Charles  avenue 
cars)  and  at  Bucktown,  the  upper  end  of  West  End,  are  sev- 
eral keno  halls. 

Billiard  Halls. 

Crescent  Billiard  Hall— No.  107  St.  Charles  street. 
Miller's  Billiard  Hall— No.  116  Royal  street. 

Bowling  Alleys. 
No.  227  Baronne  street. 


ARCHBISHOP'S   PALACE. 

Corner  of  Ursulines  and  Chartres  streets.  Take  cars  in  front  of  Custom- 
house to  the  corner  of  Ursulines  street,  and  Chartres  street  is  two  squares 
distant.     Apply  at  the  Porter's  Lodge  for  admission. 

The  old  Ursuline  Convent,  or,  as  it  is  also  called,  ' '  Convent 
des  Ursulines,"  is  situated  at  the  corner  of  Ursulines  and 
Chartres  streets,  and  is  one  of  the  most  quaint  and  venerable 
buildings  in  this  city.  The  old  convent  consists  of  a  long  row 
of  two-story  brick  buildings,  facing  a  small  garden,  with  St. 
Mary's- Archbishop  Church  ("Eglise  St.  Marie- Archeveche) 
at  one  end,  and,  at  the  other,  a  small  chapel,  now  converted 
into  rooms.  The  convent  was  built  about  1727,  and,  like  all 
the  buildings  of  that  period,  was  constructed  in  a  solid  and 
substantial  manner,  so  that  neither  time  nor  neglect  have  been 
able  to  crumble  it  into  ruins.  The  convent  was  long  used  by 
the  order  of  the  Ursulines,  a  Roman  Catholic  order  of  clois- 
tered nuns,  who  devote  themselves  to  praying  and  to  the  edu- 
cation of  females.  They,  removed,  in  1824,  to  a  new  convent 
below  the  city.  In  1831,  he  building  was  used  as  a  State  Cap- 
itol, and  the  legislature  held  several  sessions  within  its  walls. 
At  present,  it  is  used  as  an  Archepiscopal  palace  for  the  arch- 
diocese of  Louisiana,  and  as  a  seminary  for  priests.  Entering 
through  the  porter's  lodge,  in  the  door  of  which  is  the  usual 
convent  grating  or  ' '  guichet "  as  it  is  called,  a  small  garden  is 


Sights  of  the  City.  107 

reached,  and  a  good  view  is  had  of  the  gloomy-looking  old  pile 
of  buildings,  with  its  peaked  roof  and  many  tall  and  solemn- 
looking  windows.  Crossing  the  garden,  the  visitor  enters  by 
an  old-fashioned  porch  a  large  vestibule,  from  which  diverge 
several  passages  leading  to  the  court-yard,  the  church  and  to 
various  parts  of  the  building.  The  interior  remains  in  its 
original  state,  wdth  a  curious  old  staircase,  heavy  doors,  and 
cypress  floors,  the  latter  so  worn  that  the  ill-fashioned,  old 
hand-made  nails  protrude.  On  the  second  floor  are  the  offices 
of  the  Archbishop,  containing  the  portraits  of  all  the  Arch- 
bishops of  the  diocese,  the  private  chapel  of  the  Archbishop, 
the  rooms  of  the  Chancellor  and  other  official  attendants  of 
the  Archepiscopal  household.  On  presentation  of  a  visiting 
card,  the  Archbishop  receives  all  who  call.  The  present  Arch- 
bishop, the  Most  Reverend  Monseigneur  Louis  Placide  Cha- 
pelle,  is  one  of  the  great  dignitaries  of  the  church  of  the 
Province  of  New  Orleans.  The  church,  the  convent  and  the 
old  chapel,  which  is  about  the  oldest  church  in  Louisiana,  near 
Ursulines  street,  form  a  court-yard,  in  which  are  a  little  ora- 
tory and  shrine.  In  the  dining-room,  which  has  natural  panels 
of  cypress,  is  a  curious  old  clock.  The  shutters  of  cypress  over 
the  main  entrance  are  over  one  hundred  years  old  and  are  per- 
fectly sound  to  this  day.  The  old  Spanish  Barracks  were  for- 
merly situated  adjoining  and  in  them  in  1769  the  Louisiana 
martyrs  of  liberty  were  shot  by  Governor  0  'Reilly.  The  fam- 
ilies of  these  victims  of  Spanish  cruelty,  assembled  in  the 
Chapel  in  prayer,  heard  distinctly  the  commands  and  fainted 
away  at  the  report  of  the  arms  that  sent  their  relatives  to 
death. 

At  No.  1205  Esplanade  avenue  is  the  mansion  of  the  Arch- 
bishop, presented  to  the  archdiocese  by  the  people  of  his 
church,  in  which  he  resides.  The  auxiliary  Bishop  lives  at  the 
Annunciation  Church  Presbytery. 

ARMORIES. 

Washington  Artillery  Hall. 

On  St.  Charles  street,  between  Girod  and  Julia  streets  (seven  squares  from 
Canal  street).  Take  any  car  on  St.  Charles  street.  Apply  to  Armorer  for 
admission. 

The  Washington  Artillery,  a  military  organization  of  the 
State,  was  formed  in  1847,  by  General  Persifor  Smith,  and 
participated  in  the  Mexican  War  and  the  late  Civil  War.    In 


108  New  Orleans  Guide. 

the  latter,  it  was  considered  the  leading  artillery  organization 
on  the  Confederate  side.  The  command,  composed  of  the 
veterans  of  both  wars  and  the  young  men  of  the  city,  is  organ- 
ized as  a  battalion  of  three  companies,  under  the  command  of 
Lieut.-Col.  John  B.  Richardson,  and  drill  as  infantry  and 
artillery.  The  Armory  is  well  worth  a  visit,  as  there  is  a  col- 
lection of  arms,  battle-flags  and  pictures.  At  the  end  of  the 
drill-hall  is  a  life-size  painting,  by  Julio,  representing  the 
meeting  of  General  Robert  E.  Lee  and  "Stonewall"  Jackson 
during  the  battle  of  Chancellorsville.  The  picture  is  consid- 
ered to  have  some  artistic  merit,  and  is  well  worth  a  study. 
The  figure  of  General  Lee  conveys  the  idea  of  earnestness, 
great  activity  and  decision,  while  that  of  General  Jackson,  in 
the  foreground  receiving  the  orders,  is  one  of  deep  attention. 
The  likenesses  are  considered  very  true,  and  the  picture  is 
well  worth  a  visit  to  the  Armory.  In  one  corner  of  the  drill- 
hall  is  the  state  hearse  used  at  the  funeral  of  Jefferson  Davis, 
the  President  of  the  Southern  Confederacy.  The  members  of 
the  battalion  take  great  pride  in  their  organization  and  its 
perpetuation  by  making  their  Armory  attractive,  and  are 
always  happy  to  show  it  to  strangers,  especially  to  those  who 
fought  on  the  other  side  in  the  late  Civil  War. 

Continental  Guards  Armory. 

No.  528  Camp  street. 

The  Continental  Guards,  an  independent  military  organiza- 
tion, much  admired  and  esteemed  in  this  city,  where  their  pic- 
turesque and  handsome  uniform  of  the  Washington  era  never 
fails,  in  all  parades  of  the  militia,  to  attract  great  attention. 
At  different  times,  the  Continentals  have  made  several  excur- 
sions to  the  North,  and  elsewhere,  and  from  their  trips  have 
brought  back  many  interesting  souvenirs  to  decorate  their 
headquarters.  The  Armory  is  fitted  up  as  a  club  room,  and  is 
a  great  evening  resort  of  the  members.  During  the  year  the 
Continentals  entertain  their  friends,  and  their  headquarters 
are  always  open  to  strangers  properly  introduced. 

State  Armory. 

Rear  of  Cabildo,  Jackson  Square.  Take  Levee  and  Barracks  cars,  on  Canal 
street,   in  front  of  Customhouse. 

The  State  Armory,  on  St.  Peters  street,  is  an  old  Armory, 
arid  contains  guns  and  other  military  property  of  the  State, 


110  New  Orleans  Gt'tde. 

and  is  also  the  headquarters  of  some  of  the  Creole  military 
organizations. 

ATHLETICS. 

During  the  last  few  years  athletic  and  gymnastic  sports 
have  received  a  great  impetus  by  the  formation  of  several 
clubs  devoted  to  these  sports,  and  by  the  annual  holding,  by 
these  clubs  at  one  of  the  suburban  parks,  of  Spring  and 
Fall  games,  have  attracted  great  crowds  and  awakened  the  in- 
terest of  the  young  element  of  the  city  in  ' '  record  breaking. ' ' 
In  addition  to  these  annual  games  glove  contests  are  often 
arranged  for  large  purses,  and  the  most  prominent  celebrities 
of  the  fistic  world  have  fought  under  the  impartial  and  orderly 
management  of  some  of  these  clubs. 

Young  Men^s  Gymnastic  Club. 

Kampart,  betAveen  Baronne  and  Customhouse  streets.  Take,  on  Canal, 
Prytania-Esplanade  Belt  cars,  which  stop  in  front  of  club-house. 

The  oldest  atheletic  organization  in  New  Orleans  is  the 
Young  Men's  Gymnastic  Club,  a  popular  one  of  over  one 
thousand  members.  The  club-house  is  well  situated  and  its 
appointments  are  first-class.  In  the  rear  of  the  handsome 
parlors  is  a  large  cafe  and  billiard  hall.  From  this  is  entered 
the  gymnasium  hall,  about  one  hundred  feet  long,  fitted  with 
the  most  modern  gymnastic  apparatus,  a  running  track  and 
all  the  appliances  of  a  complete  gymnastum.  Beyond  are  lux- 
urious Turkish  and  Russian  baths  and  a  beautiful  white 
marble  swimming  pool,  fed  by  salt  and  artesian  water  from  a 
well  1200  feet  deep.  Attached  to  the  club  are  bowling  alleys 
and  shooting  galleries  and  every  kind  of  amusements  and  con- 
veniences for  the  enjoyment  of  the  club  members. 

Southern  Athletic  Club. 

Corner'  Prytania  street  and  Washington  avenue.  Take,  on  Canal  street, 
Prytania  cars  to  club-house  door.  Can  be  visited  only  on  member  's  intro- 
duction.    Days  fixed  for  ladies. 

One  of  the  first  athletic  clubs  to  be  organized  in  the  South 
was  the  Southern  Athletic  Club  of  New  Orleans,  which  has  a 
membership  of  over  one  thousand,  composed  mostly  of  the^ 
leading  social,  professional  and  mercantile  men  of  the  city, 
and  belongs  to  the  National  Amateur  Athletic  Union.  The 
clubhouse,  a  large  and  handsome  wooden  building,  the  inte- 
rior of  which  is  finished  in  natural  woods,  contains  reading 
and  social  rooms,  a  large  and  lofty  two-story  gymnasium  hall, 


DIAGRAM FRENCH  OPERA  HOUSE. 


S)Tj>»t 


DIAGEAM GRAND  OPEEA  HOUSE. 


SXAGE. 
DIAGKAM CEESCENT  THEATRE. 


Sights  op  the  Crf  v.  116 

120  by  77  feet,  fitted  up  with  a  rubber  running  track  and  all 
the  latest  gymnastic  appliances,  hot  and  cold  baths,  a  swim- 
ming pool  of  brick  and  cement,  40  by  70  feet,  and  five  to  ten 
feet  deep,  fed  by  a  salt  water  flowing  well  1200  feet  deep,  box- 
ing and  fencing  rooms  and  luxurious  Russian  and  Turkish 
baths  in  colored  marbles.  In  1889  Kilrain  trained  at  this  club- 
house for  his  famous  prize  fight  with  Sullivan  that  took  place 
at  Richburg,  Miss.,  and  Corbett,  in  1892,  trained  there  also 
for  his  great  fight  with  Sullivan.  Immediately  afterwards 
Corbett  returned  to  the  clubhouse,  apparently  without  a 
bruise  or  scratch,  to  receive  congratulations  on  his  victory 
over  the  greatest  gladiator  of  modern  times. 

Young  Men's  Christian  Association. 

No.  815  St.  Charles  street.     Take  cars  on  St.  Charles  street  to  door. 

This  association  occupies  a  fine  building  on  St.  Charles 
street  and  has  a  large  membership.  There  are  reading  rooms 
and  in  the  rear  a  gymnasium  and  swimming  pool. 

ASYLUMS. 

Owing  to  the  great  epidemics  that  have  visited  New  Orleans, 
often  sweeping  away  parents  and  leaving  numerous  children 
to  the  charity  of  the  world,  it  became  necessary  to  found  asy- 
lums for  the  many  orphans,  and  there  is  perhaps  no  other  city 
in  the  United  States  where  there  are  more  establishments  of 
the  kind  and  where  such  institutions  enlist  as  much  popular 
sympathy.  The  names  of  Poydras,  Milne,  Fink,  Mercer,  Sister 
Regis  and  kind  Margaret,  the  baker,  are  greatly  revered  for 
their  good  works  and  timely  aid  in  founding  and  sustaining 
these  homes  of  mercy.  The  institutions  are  supported  by  moneys 
derived  from  bequests,  popular  contributions,  proceeds  of 
charitable  entertainments  and  a  little  city  aid,  besides  which 
great  pains  are  taken  to  make  the  institutions  as  nearly  self- 
supporting  as  possible  by  taking  in  washing,  sewing  and  doing 
other  manual  labor.  Some  children,  who  are  left  without 
mothers,  are  often  placed  in  the  asylums  by  their  fathers  for 
education  and  religious  training,  and  these  "half  orphans," 
as  they  are  called,  pay  a  small  sum  for  their  maintenance.  The 
asylums  are  open  to  inspection  at  any  time  and  are  well 
worthy  of  a  visit,  especially  St.  Vincent's  Infant  Asylum, 
corner  of  Magazine  and  Race  streets.     The  Sisters  in  charge 


116  New  Orleans  GuroE. 

are  always  glad  to  show  their  institutions  to  strangers.  In 
some  of  the  asylums,  a  contribution  box  is  placed  near  the 
door  for  those  who  desire  to  assist  in  this  good  work  to  deposit 
money.  The  Catholic  Societies  are  managed  by  Sisterhoods, 
and  among  them  the  ' '  Sisters  of  Charity ' '  are  foremost  in  this 
noble  work.  Among  the  many  asylums  the  following  are  well 
worthy  of  a  visit,  especially:  the  Baby  Asylum  (St.  Vincent's) 
and  the  Little  Sisters  of  the  Poor  Asylum. 

Camp  Street  Female  Orphan  Asylum. 

At'  the  intersection  of  Camp  and  Prytania  streets,  Margaret  Park.  Take 
Prytania  or  Magazine  cars  on  Canal  street. 

The  Camp  Street  Asylum  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  city 
and  is  managed  by  the  Sisters  of  Charity.  It  was  founded 
about  1850,  by  Sister  Regis,  and  is  designed  as  an  asylum  to 
educate  children  transferred  from  St.  Vincent's  Infant  Asy- 
lum. The  asylum  is  ably  conducted  and  its  labors  are  well 
appreciated.  Margaret,  the  benevolent  baker,  was  for  many 
years  one  of  its  best  friends  and  foremost  supporters.  Her 
statue  is  in  the  little  park  in  front  of  the  asylum. 

St.  Elizabeth  Asylum. 

On  Napoleon  avenue,  between  Prytania  and  Coliseum  streets.  Take  Pry- 
tania cars  on  Canal  street  to  Napoleon  avenue,  or  St.  Charles  cars,  corner  of 
Canal  and  Baronne  streets  to  Napoleon  avenue,  thence  walk  two  squares  to- 
ward the  river.     For  admission  apply  at  gate. 

This  asylum,  which  occupies  two  squares  of  ground,  faces 
Napoleon  avenue,  and  is  a  large  three-story  brick  building 
with  a  mansard  roof.  The  institution  is  under  the  care  of  the 
Sisters  of  Charity  and  is  to  a  great  extent  self-supporting. 
After  the  female  orphans  at  the  Camp  Street  Asylum  have 
reached  a  certain  age  they  are  transferred  to  this  asylum  and 
are  taught  to  wash,  sew  and  do  fine  needle  work.  As  soon  as 
they  reach  womanhood  situations  are  found  for  them,  and  for 
a  time  the  good  Sisters  look  after  their  welfare. 

St.  Vincent's  Infant  Asylum. 

Corner  of  Magazine  and  Race  streets.  Take  Magazine  cars  on  Canal  street 
to  the  corner  of  Race  street,  thence  one  square  toward  river  to  Magazine 
street.     For  admission  apply  at  any  time  at  front  gate. 

St.  Vincent's  is  generally  known  as  the  ''Baby  Asylum," 
and  is  the  most  interesting  asylum  to  visit  on  account  of  the 


118  New  Orleans  Guide. 

number  and  tender  age  of  its  inmates,  as  well  as  to  see  how 
the  patient  Sisters  of  Charity  can  manage  to  care  for  so  many 
little  ones.  It  serves  as  the  Foundling  Asylum  of  the  city, 
and  contains  over  two  hundred  children,  who  are  either  babies 
or  little  children  just  able  to  walk.  The  building  is  a  commo- 
dious brick  edifice  and  its  dormitories,  nurseries  and  halls  are 
models  of  neatness.  As  the  little  inmates  are  entirely  helpless 
all  strangers  should  not  forget  to  drop  some  contribution,  no 
matter  how  small,  in  the  box,  as  it  will  assist  the  kind  Sisters 
in  their  good  work. 

PoYDRAs  Male  Orphan  Asylum. 

On  St.  Charles  avenue,  corner  of  Dufossat  street.  Take  St.  Charles  cars, 
corner  of  I  aronue  and  Canal  streets,  to  Dufossat  street.  For  admission  apply 
at  the  gate. 

Some  years  ago  Julien  Poydras,  a  wealthy  citizen  of  New 
Orleans,  died,  leaving  all  his  property  for  the  benefit  ot*  the 
poor,  and  with  these  means  two  asylums  have  been  erected 
and  are  maintained  in  a  worthy  manner.  One  of  these  is  the 
above  named  asylum, which  occupies  a  whole  square  of  ground 
and  is  a  substantial  built  building  of  brick,  ornamented  by  a 
cupola.  The  boys  are  well  taken  care  of  and  educated  with 
great  care. 

Poydras  Female  Orphan  Asylum. 

On  Magazine  street,  corner  of  Peters  avenue.  Take  Coliseum  cars  on  Canal 
street  to  Peters  avenue.     Admission  by  gate  on  Magazine  street. 

This  asylum  for  girls,  founded  by  property  left  by  Julien 
Poydras,  a  wealthy  citizen  of  New  Orleans,  is  a  large  four- 
story  brick  building  at  the  corner  of  Magazine  street  and 
Peters  avenue.  The  asylum  grounds  comprise  a  large  square 
and  are  well  laid  out  with  walks  and  handsome  shrubbery. 
The  institution  is  managed  by  a  board  of  directresses  and  is  a 
model  asylum. 

St.  Mary's  Orphan  Boys'  Asylum. 

Chartres  street,  corner  Mazant  street.  Take  Levee  and  Barracks  cars  on 
Canal  street,  opposite  the  Customhouse,  to  Mazant  street.  For  admission 
apply  at  front  entrance. 

This  institution  occupies  nearly  a  square  of  ground  and 
consists  of  a  series  of  plain  brick  -and  wooden  buildings  which 
the  patient  Sisters  have  gradually  built  and  added  to  as  the 


120  New  Orleans  Guide. 

years  rolled  by  and  the  funds  came  in.  The  boys  are  taught 
useful  trades,  and  attached  to  the  institution  is  a  farm  situ- 
ated below  the  city.  About  400  boys  are  educated  here  to 
become  good  citizens  and  industrious  workmen. 

House  op  the  Good  Shepherd. 

On  Bienville  street,  corner  of  Broad  street.  Take  Canal  street  cars  to 
Broad  street.     For  admission  apply  at  central  entrance  on  Bienville  street. 

The  House  of  the  Good  Shepherd  is  one  of  the  useful  insti- 
tutions of  the  city,  and  is  designed  as  a  girls'  reformatory. 
The  buildings,  which  are  of  brick,  are  very  extensive,  and 
comprise  working  room,  dormitories,  chapel,  and  other  de- 
partments. The  institution,  which  is  under  the  management 
of  the  Sisters  of  the  Good  Shepherd,  is  divided  into  several 
distinct  parts,  one  portion  being  for  those  who  are  placed 
there  by  their  parents,  and  another  for  those  committed  by  the 
city  magistrates.  All  are  employed  in  various  household 
duties,  and  do  the  washing  and  sewing  of  the  hotels,  steam- 
boats and  families. 

Little  Sisters  op  the  Poor. 

Corner  of  Johnson  and  La  Harpe  streets.  Take  Esplanade  cars  on  Canal 
street  to  Johnson  street,  thence  three  squares  to  the  corner  of  La  Harpe  street. 
For  admission  apply  at  the  wicket  gate  on  Johnson  street. 

This  asylum,  for  the  aged  and  infirm,  as  it  is  sometimes 
called,  is  one  of  the  most  admirable  charitable  institutions  of 
the  city.  It  has  no  revenues  save  from  charity  and  bequests, 
and  with  these  uncertain  means  the  noble  band  of  the  Little 
Sisters  of  the  Poor  have  erected  the  large  pile  of  buildings 
covering  nearly  a  square.  The  Little  Sisters  go  daily  to  the 
markets,  hotels  and  restaurants,  and  gather  what  would  be 
thrown  away  as  useless,  and  so  manage  to  support  daily  this 
large  asylum  full  of  old  and  infirm  people,  for  according  to 
the  rules  of  the  order  they  must  subsist  by  begging  alone  and 
use  all  bequests  in  the  erection  of  buildings. 

The  institution  is  divided  into  two  departments,  male  and 
female,  and  the  only  condition  of  admittance  to  this  home  is 
that  one  is  poor,  old  and  helpless.  In  the  centre  of  the  build- 
ing is  the  chapel,  plain  and  without  ornament,  but  neat  and 
well  arranged.  The  regulations  of  the  order  of  the  Little 
Sisters  of  the  Poor  do  not  permit  any  luxury ;  they  have  no 
organ,  so  all  the  services  are  entirely  choral.     Many  of  the 


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122  New  Orleans  Guide. 

inmates  are  over  a  hundred  years  old,  and  it  is  one  of  tlie 
most  interesting  places  in  the  city  to  visit.  Strangers  should 
not  fail  to  contribute  to  this  very  v^^orthy  charity.  The  Little 
Sisters  need  all  the  help  they  can  get,  and  the  money  thus 
bestowed  will  surely  be  well  expended  on  those  whom  the 
world  no  longer  has  use  for,  poor,  decrepit  and  friendless. 

Episcopal  Home. 

Corner  of  Jackson  and  St.  Thomas  streets.  Take  Jackson  cars,  corner  of 
Canal  and  Baronne  streets,  to  the  corner  of  St.  Thomas  street.  Admission  on 
Jackson  street. 

This  asylum  for  girls,  under  the  direction  of  the  Sisterhood 
of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church,  occupies  a  large  brick 
building  on  Jackson  avenue,  and  is  a  well  managed  institution. 
The  girls,  under  the  pious  Sisters,  are  educated  and  well  cared 
for. 

St.  Anna's  Asylum. 

Corner  Prytanla  and  St.  Marj  streets.  Take  Prytanla  cars  to  the  corner 
of  St.  Mary  street.     Admission  at  Prytanla  street  entrance. 

The  St.  Anna 's  Asylum,  or  Home,  is  a  handsome  three-story 
brick  building  and  was  founded  by  Dr.  Mercer,  a  wealthy 
citizen,  as  a  retreat  for  poor  gentlewomen,  and  was  well  en- 
dowed with  property,  so  that  the  asylum  gives  a  comfortable 
home  to  a  large  number  of  ladies.  This  institution,  named  in 
honor  of  the  only  daughter  of  the  founder,  is  a  model  of  neat- 
ness and  order,  and  happily  under  the  careful  management 
of  several  charitable  ladies,  accomplishes  very  well  the  objects 
of  its  founder. 

Jewish  Home. 

Corner  of  St.  Charles  and  Peters  avenues.  Take  St.  Charles  cars  on  Canal 
street. 

The  Jewish  Home  is  one  of  the  best  managed  institutions  in 
the  city,  and  is  the  pride  of  the  Hebrews,  under  whose  foster- 
ing care  it  is  placed.  The  children  are  well  taken  care  of  and 
educated  in  their  faith,  and  are  the  object  of  much  tender  de- 
votion on  the  part  of  the  Jews,  who,  with  their  proverbial 
charity  to  each  other,  maintain  almost  wholly,  without  outside 
assistance,  this  noble  home  and  asylum.  It  is  a  model  institu- 
tion, under  the  paternal  care  of  Mr.  Hyman,  who  is  a  thor- 
oughly practical  manager. 


YOUNG    men's    christian    ASSOCIATION. 


124  New  Orleans  Guide. 

AUCTIONEERS'  OLD  EXCHANGE. 

On  Royal  street,  half  a  square  from  Canal  street. 

The  Exchange  Building,  on  Royal  street,  now  used  as  a 
billiard  hall,  and  formerly  the  Exchange  of  New  Orleans,  is  a 
large  building  with  a  white  stone  front  on  Royal  street,  near 
Canal  street.  At  one  time  the  ground  floor  was  used  by  the 
postoffice  and  the  second  floor  as  offices  and  court  rooms.  In 
one  of  the  large  rooms,  in  the  rear,  the  celebrated  filibuster  of 
Central  America,  General  Walker,  "the  grey-eyed  man  of 
destiny,"  as  he  was  called,  was  tried  and  acquitted,  through 
the  exertions  of  the  Hon.  Pierre  Soule,  the  well  known  French 
exile  and  Senator  from  Louisiana.  This  building  was  designed 
for  an  Exchange,  and  the  interior,  surmounted  by  a  large 
dome,  supported  by  columns,  is  an  elegant  hall ;  but  its  beauty 
is  marred  by  the  temporary  floor  dividing  the  hall  into  two 
stories. 

BANKS. 

The  Banks  of  New  Orleans  are  eighteen-  in  number,  with  a 
combined  capital  of  $7,150,200.  Of  this  number  six  are 
National  Banks  and  the  others  are  operated  under  the  strin- 
gent banking  laws  of  the  State  and  the  supervision  of  a  State 
Bank  Examiner.  Some  of  the  banks,  as  the  Whitney  National 
Bank  and  the  New  Orleans  National  Bank,  have  small  capitals 
but  a  large  surplus  of  nearly  treble  the  amount.  The  market 
quotations  of  the  stocks  of  the  New  Orleans  banks  indicate 
that  they  are  doing  a  safe  and  prosperous  business,  the  bank 
clearings  amounted,  in  1901,  to  $496,465,741,  and  the  daily  de- 
posits reach  as  high  as  $26,059,473.  The  banks  are  open  from 
9  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 

Organized.  Capital. 

Canal,  No.  225  Camp  street 1895  ?1,000,000 

Citizens',   No.   630   Gravier   street 1853  X^X':^r!; 

Commercial  National,  No.  206  Carondelet  street 1900  300,000 

Commercial  Trust  &  Savings,   143  Carondelet   street..  1902  250,000 

Germania  National,  No.  620  Canal  street 1809  300,000 

Germania  Savings  Bank  &  Trust  Co.,  311  Camp  stret.  .  1881  I'OO.OOO 

Hibernia  Bank  &  Trust  Co.,  No.  218  Carondelet  street.  .  1902  1;000,000 

Louisiana  National,  No.  614  Common  street 1866  500,000 

Metropolitan,    No.    408    Camp    street 1870  250,000 

Morgan  State  Bank,   No.   143  Chartres  street 1901  100,000 

New  Orleans  National,  No.  201  Camp  street 1870  200,000 

People's,   No.   201    Decatur  street 1869  250,000 

Provident  Savings  &  S.  Dep.,  No.  221  Camp  street 1893  100,000 

State  National,  No.  619  Common  street 1871  300,000 

Teutonia,  No.  327  St.  Charles  street 1893  100,000 

V.  S.  Safe  Dep.  &  Sav.  Bank,  No.  207  Camp  street 1893  100,000 

Whitney  National,  No.  613  Gravier  street 1883  400,000 

Interstate  Trust  &  Banking  Co.,  No.  215  Camp  street.  .  1902  1,500,000 


126  New  Orleans  Guide. 

BARRACKS. 

On  the  Levee,  at  the  extreme  eud  or  lower  limits  of  the  city.  Take  Dau- 
phine  cars  on  Canal  street,  or  Levee  and  Barracks  cars  In  front  of  the  Cu«- 
tomhouse.     Admission  at  front  gate  on  the  Levee. 

The  United  States  Barracks,  officially  known  as  Jackson 
Barracks,  face  the  river.  They  consist  of  a  series  of  brick  bar- 
racks and  officers'  quarters,  with  an  esplanade  in  the  centre, 
the  whole  enclosed  by  thick  brick  walls.  This  place  may  be 
properly  called  fortified  barracks,  as  at  the  four  corners  are 
towers  with  embrasures  for  guns,  and  the  walls  are  pierced  for 
musketry  firing.  The  barracks  and  surrounding  grounds  are 
kept  in  perfect  order,  and  are  usually  occupied  by  several 
companies  of  the  different  arms  of  the  United  States  service. 


CANAL  STREET. 

The  main  avenue  of  New  Orleans  is  Canal  street,  which  ex- 
tends from  the  Mississippi  River  to  the  Metairie  Ridge.  Its 
name  is  derived  from  a  canal  that  formerly  occupied  the  neu- 
tral ground  on  which  are  the  starting  points  of  the  cars.  The 
street  was  formerly  the  upper  boundary  of  the  city,  and  on  it 
was  a  line  of  ramparts,  or  fortifications.  The  canal,  or  moat, 
w^as,  in  later  times,  used  for  irrigation,  but,  as  it  became  a 
nuisance,  it  was  filled  up.  This  street  is  the  dividing  line  be- 
tween the  American  and  Creole  population,  and  many  of  the 
latter  have  never  crossed  the  line.  All  the  principal  retail 
ptores  are  on  this  street,  and  the  lower  side,  from  Chartres  to 
Rampart  street,  is  the  principal  promenade  in  the  city.  All 
car  lines  radiate  from  this  street  to  all  parts  of  the  town. 


CARONDELET  STREET. 

Carondelet  street,  named  after  the  Spanish  Governor,  Baron 
de  Carondelet,  intersects  Canal  street  and  is  the  great  cotton 
mart.  On  this  street,  and  on  the  streets  adjoining,  are  all  the 
large  factorage  houses,  and  nearly  two  million  bales  of  cotton, 
worth  the  enormous  sum  of  one  hundred  million  of  dollars, 
are  sold  every  year. 

CARS. 

See  Directions  for  Tourists. 


12S  New  Orl-eans  Gujdk. 

CABILDO  AND  COURT  BUILDINGS. 

On  Jackson  Square,  six  blocks  from  Canal  street.  Take  cars  In  front  of 
Customhouse  and  get  out  at  Jackson  Square  and  cross  the  Square  to  Chartres 
street. 

The  buildino's  on  each  side  of  the  Cathedral  are  known  as 
the  Court  Buildings,  and  like  all  edifices  erected  by  the  Span- 
iards, by  whom  they  were  built,  are  constructed  in  a  heavy 
and  solid  manner  and  are  splendid  specimens  of  Spanish  colo- 
nial architecture.  The  facades,  on  Chartres  street,  consist  of 
a  series  of  arches  and  columns,  and  are  of  brick  stuccoed.  The 
upper  was  called  the"Cabildo,"or  Municipeil  Chapter  House, 
and  was  erected  in  1794.  Within  its  walls  the  transfers 
of  Louisiana  by  the  representatives  of  the  King  of  Spain 
to  France  and  of  France  to  the  United  States,  in  1803, 
were  made.  There  the  proud  seigneur,  in  big  wig  and  knee 
breeches,  representing  the  King  of  Spain,  absolved,  with  sub- 
lime and  lofty  condescension,  in  his  master's  name,  his  vassals 
of  the  colony  from  their  oaths  of  fealty  and  transferred  them 
over  to  France.  Later  on  the  colonists  were  turned  over  to  the 
United  States  Federation  in  this  same  building  and  Gov.  Clai- 
borne, representing  the  United  States,  welcomed  them  into  the 
American  colony  as  free  citizens  of  a  great  Republic.  From 
the  balcony  was  proclaimed  the  transfer  of  the  colony 
and  the  new  flag  was  saluted  by  the  authorities.  In 
1826,  General  Lafayette  was  entertained  by  the  city  and  the 
Cabildo  was  fitted  up  as  a  residence  for  the  General.  At 
present,  a  jail  and  criminal  court  occupy  the  ground  floor  and 
the  upper  part  is  used  by  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  State.  The 
sessions  of  this  court  are  public,  and  take  place  from  11  a.  m. 
to  3  p.  m.  In  the  court-room  are  a  series  of  portraits  of  dis- 
tinguished lawyers.  The  entrance  is  wide  with  an  old-fash- 
ioned and  much  worn  stone  staircase.  On  May  2,  1901,  Presi- 
dent McKinley  was  received  here  by  the  Louisiana  Llistorical 
Society  and  spoke  from  the  balcony.  In  the  Cabildo  were  held 
the  first  Protestant  services  in  Louisiana,  Bishop  Chase  offi- 
ciating. 

The  lower  court  building  is  not  so  old  as  the  Cabildo  and  is 
used  by  the  District  Courts.  In  former  times,  the  site  of  this 
building  was  occupied  by  a  monastery  of  Capuchins,  who  were 
charged  with  the  services  of  the  Cathedral.  The  gardens  of  their 
convent  extended  back  to  Chartres  street,  and  here  Father 
Antonio  de  la  Sedella,  better  known  as  Pere  Antoine,  lived  for 


130  New  Orleans  Guide. 

many  years.  When  this  priest  landed  in  the  colony  he  came 
to  establish  the  Inquisition  in  Louisiana.  After  exhibiting  his 
credentials  from  the  Grand  Inquisitor  of  Spain,  he  requested 
the  Governor  to  place  at  his  command  the  troops  to  carry  out 
the  orders  of  the  Holy  Office.  That  night,  while  dreaming  of 
the  best  means  to  begin  the  crusade  against  the  impious,  he 
was  awakened  by  loud  knocks  at  the  monastery  door.  On 
opening  it  he  beheld  a  line  of  soldiers.  ''Not  yet  ready,  my 
faithful  children,"  said  Pere  Antoine.  "I  will  send  for  you 
after  a  few  days. "  "  We  want  you, ' '  was  the  reply  of  the  lieu- 
tenant commanding,  "and  our  orders  are  to  conduct  you, 
without  delay,  this  very  night,  on  board  of  His  Majesty's  ship 
to  sail  for  Spain."  Vainly  did  Pere  Antoine  threaten  them 
with  the  terrors  of  the  Inquisition,  and  dared  them  to  molest 
the  representative  of  the  Holy  Office.  He  was  obliged,  how- 
ever, to  go,  and  thus  the  colonists  were  spared  the  horrors  of 
the  Inquisition.  He  returned  later,  but  never  attempted  to 
start  the  business  again. 

CEMETERIES. 

Cemeteries  are  often  called  ' '  The  Cities  of  the  Dead, ' '  and 
nowhere  is  the  term  more  appropriate  than  in  New  Orleans. 
The  soil  being  low  and  wet,  it  is  necessary  to  bury  above 
ground,  and,  consequently,  the  cemeteries  of  this  place  pre- 
sent the  appearance  of  cities  with  little  white  houses,  which 
serve  as  tombs.  As  the  manner  of  burial  is  different  from 
most  cities,  the  cemeteries  should  be  visited  by  all  strangers. 
In  the  rear  of  the  city  are  some  graveyards  where  interments 
are  made  in  the  ground,  but,  as  you  cannot  dig  very  deep 
without  striking  water  such  mode  of  burial  is  but  little  used, 
and  then  only  by  the  poorer  class,  who  have  to  dig  very 
shallow  graves.  The  customary  w^ay  ,is  to  bury  in  tombs  of 
brick  or  marble,  costing  from  one  hundred  to  one  thousand 
dollars,  and  in  some  cases  even  more.  The  tombs,  which  gen- 
erally consist  of  two  vaults,  with  a  vault  below  for  bones,  are 
well  cemented  to  prevent  exhalations  from  the  bodies  within, 
and  rigorous  laws  are  enforced  to  prevent  vaults  being  opened 
too  soon  after  a  burial.  The  rows  or  vaults  built  in  tiers  are 
called  ovens.  After  a  year  or  two,  if  the  vault  is  needed  for 
another  person,  the  coffin,  which  is  of  wood,  is  broken  up  and 
burned,  and  the  bones  deposited  in  the  vault  below,  so  that,  in 
this  manner,  many  burials  can  be  made  in  the  same  tomb 


132  New  Orleans  Guide. 

during  a  series  of  years.  Funerals  are  always  attended  by 
friends  and  acquaintances  of  the  family,  as  it  is  considered  a 
mark  of  respect.  One  of  the  first  things  that  strikes  the 
stranger  is  the  little  black-bordered  funeral  invitations  on  the 
street  corners,  the  relics  of  a  custom  which  is  derived  from 
the  French.  In  these  notices  the  names  of  half  a  dozen  fam- 
ilies, of  near  and  remote  kin,  are  sometimes  mentioned.  In 
former  times,  these  invitations  were  sent  on  a  silver  basket,  by 
a  slave  to  all  friends  and  the  omission  to  send  one  was  con- 
sidered as  a  slight.  Formerly,  when  the  cemeteries  were  near* 
the  centre  of  the  city,  the  body  was  carried,  followed  by  a 
long  procession  of  priests  and  friends  bearing  wax  tapers.  At 
each  corner  the  procession  would  halt  and  chant  prayers  for 
the  dead  in  a  most  lugubrious  tone.  Now,  the  practice  is  abol- 
ished, but  it  is  still  the  custom  for  ladies  and  gentlemen  to 
follow  the  procession  on  foot.  The  black  household  servants 
always  claim  the  privilege  to  follow  immediately  after  the 
coffin  before  the  family,  and  it  is  the  custom  in  the  French 
part  of  the  city  for  passers-by  to  uncover  while  the  procession 
is  passing.  On  November  1st,  All  Saints'  Day,  the  cemeteries 
are  visited  by  thousands.  The  tombs  are  ornamented  with 
flowers,  china  vases,  lighted  candles  and  draperies.  In  the 
afternoon,  in  the  Catholic  cemeteries,  services  are  held. 

All  Saints'  Day,  as  a  holiday  of  obligation,  was  early  ap- 
pointed by  the  Catholic  Church,  but  the  floral  offerings  were 
not  a  statute  of  the  Church,  only  the  manifestation  of  a  very 
pure  sentiment.  As  one  of  the  reverend  fathers  has  re- 
marked, ''We  cover  the  coffins  of  our  beloved  with  flowers  as 
a  token  of  our  affection;  it  is  not  strange  we  should  repeat 
so  beautiful  a  ceremony,  and  cover  their  tombs  on  one  day  set 
apart  for  the  purpose  each  recurring  year.  It  is  said  of  man, 
'He  Cometh  forth  like  a  flower  and  is  cut  down.'  " 

It  has  been  suggested  that  this  offering  of  flowers  preserves 
the  memory  of  the  Eastern  custom  of  bringing  spices  to  the 
tomb,  as  the  holy  women  did  to  the  tomb  of  our  Lord.  The 
service  of  All  Saints'  Day  begins  with  the  vespers  of  the  even- 
ing before,  and  we  anticipate  All  Souls'  Day  by  performing 
the  ceremonies  that  properly  belong  to  that  day  on  All  Saints' 
Day.  'I 

A  Catholic  dictionary,  a  recent  publication,  contains  the  fol- 
lowing statements:  "All  Souls'  Day— A  solemn  commemo- 
ration of  and  prayer  for  all  the  souls  in  purgatory,  which  t^ie 


J  34  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Church  makes  on  the  2d  of  November.  The  mass  said  on  that 
day  is  always  the  mass  of  the  dead.  Priests  and  others,  who 
are  under  the  obligation  of  reciting  the  breviary,  are  required 
to  say  the  matins  and  lauds  from  the  office  of  the  dead  in 
addition  to  the  office  which  is  said  on  that  day  according  to 
the  ordinary  course,  and  the  vespers  of  the  dead  are  said  on 
the  1st  of  November  immediately  after  the  vespers  of  All 
Saints'.  This  solemnity  owes  its  origin  to  the  Abbot  Odilo  of 
Clugney,  who  instituted  it  for  all  the  monasteries  of  his  con- 
gregations in  the  year  998.  Some  authors  think  there  are 
traces,  at  least,  of  a  local  celebration  of  this  day  before  Odilo 's 
time." 

Among  the  many  cemeteries  the  following  are  the  most  note- 
worthy : 

St.  Louis  Cemetery  No.  1. 

On  Basin  street,  between  Conti  and  St.  Louis  streets.  Talie  Dauphine  or 
Esplanade  cars.  Get  out  at  St.  Anthony's  Church,  corner  of  Rampart  and 
Conti  streets,  and  walk  one  square  towards  the  woods.  Open  daily,  sunrise  to 
sunset.     No  cards  of  admission  required. 

The  old  St.  Louis  Cemetery,  as  it  is  usually  called,  is  the 
oldest  graveyard  in  the  city,  and  is  situated  near  the  centre  of 
the  town.  The  ground  was  laid  out  without  any  order,  and 
the  tombs,  with  the  inscriptions  in  French  and  Spanish,  are 
scattered  about,  forming  tortuous  alleys,  through  which  it  is 
difficult  to  find  the  way  in  and  out.  As  this  is  the  oldest  cem- 
etery, the  tombs  belong  to  the  ancient  Creole  colonial  families, 
and  on  the  tombstones  are  the  names  of  many  who  figured  in 
colonial  history.  The  handsomest  tomb  is  that  of  the  Italian 
Society  (see  Monuments),  which  is  easily  found  on  account 
of  its  great  height  and  commanding  white  marble  statue  of 
Religion  supporting  a  cross.  In  the  rear  is  the  lofty  tomb  of 
the  Societe  Francaise,  a  large  benevolent  society  of  the 
French.  On  the  same  alley,  to  your  right  as  you  face  the  mon- 
ument, is  the  tomb  of  Daniel  Clark,  erected  by  his  friend  and 
executor,  Richard  Relf.  Daniel  Clark  was  American  consul 
during  Spanish  times,  and  was  claimed  by  Mrs.  General  Myra 
Clark  Gaines  as  her  father.  The  assertion  of  her  claims  gave 
rise  to  a  long  litigation  which  lasted  nearly  fifty  years, 
until  the  names  of  all  the  parties  concerned  in  the  suits  have 
become  familiar  throughout  the  country.  In  front  of  the 
Societe  Francaise  tomb  is  that  of  the  Artillerie  d'Orleans,  an 
artillery  company  of  the  city;  it  is  surrounded  by  cannon, 
placed  in  the  ground  and  connected  with  each  other  by  chains. 


ST.    ROCHES    CHAPEL. 


136  New  Orleans  Guide. 

In  the  alley  to  the  right  is  the  tomb  of  Stephen  Zacharie,  the 
founder  of  the  first  bank  established  in  the  Mississippi  Valley. 
In  a  narrow  alley,  between  the  Artillery  Tomb  and  the  street, 
is  the  vault  of  the  Chinese  Society.  After  examining  the 
various  monuments,  the  stranger)/ should  go  to  the  alley  on  the 
Canal  street  side  of  the  cemetery  (beyond  the  Portugese 
Tomb),  at  the  end  of  which  is  a  quiet  nook,  the  private  grave- 
yard of  the  Layton  family.  In  the  same  enclosure  is  a  pretty 
chapel,  used  for  the  burial  of  the  Jesuit  priests.  Retracing 
our  steps  by  following  the  walls,  which  are  lined  with  vaults, 
called  "ovens/'  we  regain  the  entrance.  The  inscriptions  are 
in  French,  and  often  the  words  "Mort  siir  le  champ  dlion- 
)ieur'"  or  "victime  de  VJwnneur''  are  seen,  which  indicates  the 
resting  place  of  some  one  killed  in  a  duel. 

St.  Louis  Cemeteries  Nos.  2,  3  and  4. 

On  Claiborne  street,  one  block  from  Canal  street.  Take  Claiborne  cars.  Open 
daily,  sunrise  to  sunset.     No  cards  of  adraission  renuired. 

The  next  oldest  cemeteries,  after  the  one  on  Basin  street,  are 
those  on  Claiborne  stree-t.  Those  situated  between  Bienville 
and  St.  Louis  streets  are  used  by  the  whites,  and  the  one  be- 
tween Bienville  and  Customhouse  streets  by  the  colored  peo- 
ple. In  the  centre  one,  between  Bienville  and  Conti  streets, 
are  many  handsome  tombs  belonging  to  societies  and  citizens. 
In  the  middle  of  this  cemetery  rises  a  large  cross,  and  near  by 
are  the  tombs  of  the  Delachaise,  Cabiro,  Plauche,  Judge  Mar- 
tin of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  Alexander  Milne,  a  philanthro- 
pist. At  the  end  of  the  alley,  towards  Claiborne  street,  is  the 
Barelli  tomb,  on  which  are  sculptured  bas-reliefs  in  memory 
of  young  Barelli,  who  was  killed  by  the  explosion  of  the  steam- 
boat Louisiana.  The  accident  forms  the  subject  of  the  bas- 
relief,  and  alvv^ays  attracts  much  attention.  At  one  end  of  No. 
4  cemetery  is  the  large  Mortuary  Chapel  of  the  Carriere 
family. 

Metairie  Cemetery. 

Outside  of  the  city,  near  Metairie  road,  and  on  banks  of  the  New  Canal.  The 
largest  and  handsomest  cemetery  of  the  city.  Take  Canal  street  and  Lake  cars 
to  the  Ridge  and  cross  the  bridge.  Open  daily,  sunrise  to  sunset.  No  cards 
of  admission  required. 

The  famous  Metairie  race  course,  where  Lexington  and  Le- 
compte  ran,  in  1853,  the  celebrated  race,  was  purchased  a  few 
years  ago  by  a  company  and  converted  into  a  cemetery.  Many 


Sights  of  the  City.  137 

plans  were  examined,  and  finally  that  of  Harrod  accepted, 
which  retained  the  old  race  course  as  the  main  drive,  and  re- 
served a  large  garden  in  the  centre.  The  most  notable  tombs 
are  those  of  the  Hernandez,  Sloeomb,  Howard,  Morris  and 
Clapp  families;  the  monument  of  the  Washington  Artillery 
and  that  of  the  Army  of  Tennessee  (see  Monuments),  and 
near  the  lake  the  tombs  of  Saloy,  McCan  and  others.  Near 
the  entrance  is  a  large  receiving  vault,  built  in  the  form  of  a 
chapel,  and  several  mounds  of  exquisite  flowers.  At  the  en- 
trance is  the  tomb  of  the  Army  of  Tennessee,  surmounted  by 
the  equestrian  statue  of  General  Albert  Sidney  Johnston.  In 
the  vault  are  buried  Generals  Beauregard  and  Johnston.  At 
the  entrance  of  the  vault  is  the  statue  of  a  Confederate  sol- 
dier calling  the  roll. 

St.  Roch's  Shrine  and  Campo  Santo. 

Corner  of  Washington  and  Roman  streets.  Take,  on  Canal  street,  the 
Claiborne  or  Villere  cars  to  end  of  line.  Open  7  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  No  cards  of 
admission. 

St.  Roch's  Campo  Santo  Cemetery,  in  a  far-off  corner  of  the 
city,  away  from  the  bustle  and  noise  of  modern  life,  is  very 
curious;  devout  Catholics  make  pilgrimages  to  this  shrine  to 
pray  for  the  Saint 's  intercession  to  obtain  divine  favors.  Some 
pray  to  get  husbands,  some  for  wives,  some  for  children, 
others  for  wealth  or  other  objects.  The  shrine,  a  vine-clad 
Gothic  chapel  in  the  centre,  contains  a  pretty  altar  surmount- 
ed by  a  figure  of  St.  Roch  with  his  faithful  dog  and  panels 
illustrating  the  Saint's  life.  St.  Roch  was  born  at  Montpelier, 
France,  in  the  thirteenth  century,  and  in  making  a  pilgrimage 
to  Rome  he  passed  through  Piacenza  where  the  plague  was 
raging.  He  nursed  the  sick  and  finally  succumbed,  but  drag- 
ging himself  to  a  wood  he  was  followed  by  his  faithful  dog 
which  licked  his  sores  till  he  recovered.  He  died  in  1327  after 
a  life  of  great  sanctity  and  was  canonized.  Beneath  the  altar 
is  a  life-like  figure  of  the  Saviour  in  the  tomb  and  around  the 
sides  of  the  chapel  are  the  burial  vaults  of  church  societies.  In 
the  grounds  are  the  fourteen  Stations  of  the  Cross  of  carved 
bas-reliefs  in  wood.  The  pilgrims  making  a  novena  purchase 
a  taper  at  the  gate  and  place  it  lighted  at  the  foot  of  the  altar, 
make  their  wishes,  say  the  litany  of  St.  Roch,  and  after  depos- 
iting their  alms  make  the  way  of  the  cross  at  the  several  sta- 
tions.   In  one  corner  is  the  tomb  of  the  nuns  of  the  Perpetual 


138  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Adoration  Order,  who  pray  in  their  convents,  night  and  day, 
before  the  Host.  In  the  rear  cemetery  is  a  mortuary  chapel 
frescoed  by  the  Carmelite  monks  and  surmounted  with  a 
statue  of  St.  Michael,  archangel. 

Chalmette  Cemetery. 

Situated  on  the  Battle  Ground,  six  miles  below  the  city.  Take  Barracks  or 
Dauphine  cars  and  ride  to  terminus,  from  which  point  walk  down  the  river 
one  mile  and  a  quarter. 

The  United  States  Government  purchased  a  portion  of  the 
old  battle-ground  where,  in  1815,  Jackson  defeated  the  Eng- 
lish, and  converted  it  into  a  national  cemetery.  The  grounds, 
covered  with  hundreds  of  little  white  marble  headstones,  are 
laid  out  in  a  tasteful  manner,  with  shelled  walks  and  avenues 
of  trees.  In  the  centre  is  a  military  monument,  recently 
erected,  on  which  is  inscribed  the  appropriate  motto,  referring 
to  the  dead  heroes  and  their  deeds,  "Dum  tacent  clamanV^ 
(''While  silent  they  cry  aloud"— Cicero) .  On  Decoration  Day, 
the  Grand  Army  of  the  Republic  usually  holds  a  memorial  ser- 
vice on  this  spot,  when  appropriate  addresses  are  made.  The 
earthworks  outside  of  the  walls  were  raised  by  the  Confeder- 
ates during  the  late  war  for  the  defense  of  the  city.  On  the 
upper  side  of  the  cemetery,  in  the  distance,  is  the  Battle  Mon- 
ument, and  near  it,  among  the  trees,  is  Jackson's  headquar- 
ters. 

Other  Cemeteries. 

Many  other  cemeteries  are  situated  in  various  parts  of  the 
town,  and  can  be  visited  between  sunrise  and  sunset  without 
cards  of  admission. 

CHURCH  DIRECTORY. 

Roman  Catholic. 

Cathedral— ^?iQk^on  Square.  Take  cars  in  frgnt  of  Uoited 
States  Customhouse  to  Jackson  Square,  six  squares  distant. 
Services:  Low  Mass  at  6  and  8  a.  m. ;  Children's  Mass  at  10 
a.  m. ;  High  Mass  at  11  a.  m. ;  Vespers  and  Benediction  at 
5:30  p.  m.  -fi 

Jesuits'  C/?wrc/i— Baronne  street,  near  Canal  street.  Masses 
at  7  and  8  a.  m. ;  High  Mass  at  11  a.  m. :  Vespers  and  Bene- 
diction at  7  p.  m. 


'     lie 


140  New  Orleans  Guide. 

St.  Patrick's  Church— Csimp  street,  one  square  above  La- 
fayette Square.  Take,  on  Canal  street,  Prytania  cars  to 
church  door,  six  squares  distant.  Low  Mass  at  6  and  7:30 
a.  m. ;  High  Mass,  10  a.  m. ;   Vespers,  4 :30  p.  m. 

St.  Alphonsus  C/ii^rc/i— Constance  street,  between  Josephine 
and  St.  Andrew  streets.  Take,  on  Canal  street,  Magazine  cars 
to  the  corner  of  St.  Andrew  street,  thence  one  square  towards 
the  river.  Low  Mass,  5 :30  and  8  a.  m. ;  High  Mass,  10  a.  m. ; 
Vespers  and  Benediction  at  3  p.  m. ;  Sermon  and  Benediction 
at  7  p.  m. 

Notre  Dame  de  Bon  Secours— J Sickson  avenue,  between 
Constance  and  Laurel  streets.  Take,  on  Canal  street.  Maga- 
zine cars  to  Josephine  street,  thence  one  square  to  church  door, 
or  Jackson  cars,  corner  of  Canal  and  Baronne  streets,  to 
church  door.  Low  Mass,  7  a.  m. ;  High  Mass,  10  a.  m. ;  Ser- 
mon and  Benediction,  6  p.  m. 

^S'^.  Mary's  Assumption— J oseiphine  street,  between  Con- 
stance and  Laurel  streets.  Take,  on  Canal  street.  Magazine 
cars  to  Josephine,  thence  one  square  towards  river.  Low 
Mass,  5:30  and  7  a.  m. ;  High  Mass,  10  a.  m. ;  Vespers  and 
Benediction  at  7  p.  m. 

St.  Theresa's— Csimp  street,  near  Margaret  Place.  Take 
Magazine  street  cars,  on  Canal  street,  to  church  door,  twelve 
squares  distant.    High  Mass,  10  a.  m. 

St.  John  the  5ap^i5^— Dryades  street,  between  Calliope  and 
Erato  streets.  Take  Dryades  street  cars  to  church  door.  Low 
Mass,  6  and  8  a.  m. ;  Children's  Mass,  9  a.  m. ;  High  Mass,  10 
a.  m. ;   Vespers  and  Benediction  at  7  p.  m. 

;S'^.  Peter's  and  St.  Pau^s— Burgundy,  near  M^rigny  street. 
Take  Dauphine  cars  on  Canal  street.  Low  Mass,  5:30  and 
7 :30  a.  m. ;  High  Mass,  10  a.  m. ;  Vespers  and  Benediction  at 
5  p.  m. 

St.  Maurice's— Hd^naock  street,  near  levee.  Take  Dauphine 
cars,  on  Canal  street,  to  the  corner  of  Hancock  street,  distant 
about  two  miles. 

Protestant  Episcopal. 

Christ  Church  Cathedral — Corner  of  St.  Charles  and  Sixth 
streets.    Services  at  11  a.  m.  and  6  p.  m. 

Trinity  Church — Corner  of  Jackson  and  Coliseum  streets. 
Take  Jackson  avenue  cars  on  Canal  street  to  church  door,  or 


KAVNE   MEMORIAT.    CHURCTJ. 


142  New  Orleajsts  Guide. 

Prytania  cars  on  Canal  street  to  Jackson  avenue,  thence  one 
square  towards  river.    Services  at  11  a.  m.  and  5  p.  m. 

Free  Church  of  the  Annunciation — Corner  of  Camp  and 
Race  streets.  Take  Magazine  cars  on  Canal  street  to  the  cor- 
ner of  Race  street.    Services  at  11  a.  m.  and  5  p.  m. 

Grace  Church— South.  Rampart,  near  Canal  street.  Ser- 
vices at  11  a.  m.  and  7  :30  p.  m. 

St.  Anna's  (7/utrc/t— Esplanade  street.  Take  Esplanade 
cars  on  Canal  street  to  church  door,  one  mile  distant.  Services 
at  11  a.  m.  and  5  p.  m. 

St.  George's  Church— St.  Charles  avenue,  corner  of  Cadiz 
street.  Take  St.  Charles  avenue  cars  on  Canal  street  to 
church  door,  about  two  miles  and  a  half  distant.  Services  at 
11  a.  m.  and  5  p.  m. 

St.  Paul's  Church— Comer  of  Camp  and  Gaiennie  streets. 
Take  Magazine  or  Prytania  cars  to  door.  Services  at  11  a.  m. 
and  7:30  p.  m. 

Mt.  Olivet  Church— Take  Canal  street  ferry  to  Algiers, 
thence  to  church,  corner  of  Peters  and  Olivier  streets.  Ser- 
vices at  11  a.  m. 

Trinity  (7/i  ape  I— Rampart  street.  Services  at  11  a.  m.  and 
7  p.  m. 

Presbyterian. 

First  Presbyterian  Church — Lafayette  Square.  Take  cars 
on  St.  Charles  street  to  Lafayette  Square,  six  squares  distant. 
Services  at  11  a.  m.  and  7  :30  p.  m. 

Lafayette  Presbyterian  C/iwrc/i— Magazine  street,  between 
Jackson  and  Philip  streets.  Take  Magazine  cars  on  Canal 
street  to  the  church  door,  about  one  mile  distant.  Or,  Jackson 
cars  on  Canal  and  Baronne  streets  to  Magazine  street,  thence 
up  one  square  to  church.     Services  at  11  a.  m.  and  7  :30  p.  m. 

Third  Presbyterian  C/iwrc/i— Washington  Square,  between 
Frenchmen  and  Elysian  Fields  streets.  Take  Dauphine  cars 
to  Washington  Square,  thence  across  square  to  the  church. 
Services  at  11  a.  m.  and  7  p.  m. 

Prytania  Street  Presbyterian  Church— Corner  of  Prytania 
and  Josephine  streets.  Take  Prytania  cars  to  Josephine  street. 
Services  at  11  a.  m. 

Memorial  Presbyterian  Church— Corner  of  Franklin  and 


COLISKUM    PLACE    BAPTIST    CHURCH. 


144  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Euterpe  streets.  Take  Dryades  cars  to  Franklin  street.  Ser- 
vices at  11  a.  m. 

Canal  Street  Presbyterian — Corner  Canal  and  Derbigny 
streets.  Take  Canal  street  cars  on  Canal  street  to  church 
door.    Services  at  11  a.  m. 

Napoleon  Avenue  Presbyterian  Church — Napoleon  avenue 
and  Coliseum  street.    Services  at  11  a.  m. 

Methodist  Episcopal  Church  (South). 

Carondelet  Street  Church  —  Carondelet  street,  between 
Lafayette  and  Girod  streets.  Take  Coliseum  cars  on  Canal 
street  to  church  door,  six  squares  disrant.  Scivices  at  11 
a.  m.  and  7  p.  m. 

St.  Charles  Avenue  Church— O-rner  of  St.  Charles  avenue 
and  General  Taylor  street.  Take  St.  Charles  aveaue  cars  cor- 
ner of  Canal  and  Baronne  streets  to  corner  General  Taylor 
street.    Services  at  11  a.  m.  and  7  p.  ni. 

Felicity  Street  67iwrc/i— Corner  of  t'elieity  and  Chestnut 
streets.  Take  Coliseum  cars  on  Canal  street  to  corner  of 
Chestnut  street.    Services  at  11  a.  m.  and  7  p.  m. 

Louisiana  Avenue  Church— Corner  of  Louisiana  avenue 
and  Magazine  street.  Take  Magazine  cars  on  Canal  street  to 
Louisiana  avenue,  or  Coliseum  cars  on  Canal  street  to  Louis- 
iana avenue.    Services  at  11  a.  ni.  and  7  p.  ra. 

Moreau  Street  Church— Corner  of  Chartres  and  Moreau 
streets.  Take  Levee  cars  in  front  of  U.  S.  Customhouse  to 
Moreau  street.    Services  at  11  a.  m.  and  7  p.  m. 

Methodist  Episcopal    (North). 

Ames  Metliodiat  Episcopal  CJ^ urch— Corner  of  St.  Charles 
avenue  and  Calliope  street.  Take  St.  Charles  avenue  ctirs  on 
Canal  street  to  Calliope  street.  Services  at  11  a.  m.  and  7 
p.  m. 

Baptist. 

Coliseum  Place  Baptist  Church — Corner  of  Camp  and 
Terpsichore  streets.  Take  Magazine  cars,  or  Coliseum  cars  on 
Canal  street  to  the  corner  of  Terpsichore  street.  Services  at 
11  a.  m.  and  7 :45  p.  m. 


Sights  of  the  City.  145 

Valence  Street  Baptist  Church — Corner  Magazine  and  Va- 
lence streets.  Take  Coliseum  cars  to  door.  Services  at  11 
a.  m.  and  7  :30  p.  m. 

Unitarian  Church. 
Peters  avenue,  near  St.  Charles  avenue.  Services  at  11  a.  m. 

Lutheran  and  German  Protestant. 

Zion  Cmirch- Corner  of  St.  Charles  avenue  and  St.  An- 
drew street.  Take  St.  Charles  avenue  cars  on  Canal  street. 
Services  at  10:30  a.  m. 

Evangelical  Protestant— Comer  of  Jackson  and  Chippewa 
streets.     Take  Jackson  avenue  cars  on  Canal  street. 

Christian. 

Camp  Street  Christian  Church— Corner  Camp  and  Melpo- 
mene streets.  Coliseum  cars  on  Canal  street  to  Melpomene 
street.     Services  at  11  a.  m. 

Hebrew. 

Temple  Sinai — (Reformed  Jewish.)  Carondelet  street, 
near  Howard  avenue.  Take  cars  at  corner  of  Canal  and 
Baronne  streets,  to  Carondelet  street,  or  Coliseum  street  cars 
on  Canal  street  to  door  of  the  Temple.  Services:  Fridays  at 
sunset,  Saturdays  at  10  a.  m. 

Touro  Synagogue— {Foriuguese  rite.)  Carondelet  street, 
between  Julia  and  St.  Joseph  streets.  Take  Coliseum  cars  on 
Canal  street  to  the  door,  eight  squares  from  Canal.  Services : 
Fridays  at  sunset,  Saturdays  at  10  a.  m. 

The  Right  Way— (Folish  rite.)  Carondelet  street,  near 
Lafayette  street.  Five  squares  from  Canal  street.  Services : 
Fridays  at  sunset,  Saturdays  at  10  a.  m. 

The  Gates  of  Prayer— J aekson  street,  near  Chippewa  street. 
Take  Jackson  avenue  cars  on  Canal  street  to  corner  of  Chip- 
pewa.    Services :   Fridays  at  sunset,  Saturdays  at  10  a.  m. 

Bethel. 

The  Seamen's  Bethel—St.  Thomas  street,  near  Jackson  ave- 
nue. Take  Jackson  avenue  cars  on  Canal  street  to  corner  of 
Chippewa  street.    For  hours  of  services,  see  daily  papers. 


146  New  Orleans  Guide. 

CHURCHES. 

Cathedral  of  St.  Louis. 

Roman  Catholic,  on  Chartres  street,  fronting  on  Jackson  Square,  six 
squares  distant  from  Canal  street.  Take  Levee  and  Barracks  cars  opposite 
Customhouse  and  get  out  at  Jackson  Square.  Cathedral  open  daily  from  fi 
a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.     Entrance  by  side  door  on  lower  alley. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Louis,  named  after  the  patron  saint 
of  France,  is  a  large  edifice,  built  in  the  Renaissance  style  of 
architecture ;  and  it  has  an  imposing'  front  on  the  square.  The 
first  Cathedral,  a  structure  of  wood  and  adobe,  was  erected 
shortly  after  the  foundation  of  the  city,  and,  in  1723,  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  fearful  hurricane  that  levelled  a  great  portion 
of  the  infant  city.  A  new  edifice  was  built  in  1724,  but  this 
building  was  burned  in  the  memorable  fire  that,  on  Good  Fri- 
day, March  21st,  1788,  nearly  destroyed  the  whole  city.  The 
conflagration  was  so  disastrous  that  the  colony  was  unable  to 
rebuild  the  Cathedral,  and  for  a  long  time  afterwards  mass 
was  celebrated  in  a  temporary  building.  This  state  of  affairs 
continued  to  exist  until  1794,  when  Don  Andres  Almonester. 
a  wealthy  Spanish  nobleman  (the  grandfather  of  the  Baron- 
ess de  Pontalba,  who  owns  the  two  rows  of  red  brick  dwellings 
on  each  side  of  the  square)  determined  to  rebuild  the  Cathe- 
dral at  his  own  expense,  on  condition  that  a  mass  should  be 
said  every  Saturday  for  the  repose  of  his  soul.  Immediately 
work  was  begun  on  the  building,  and  the  third  Cathedral  com- 
pleted at  the  cost  of  $50,000.  The  design  selected  was  of  the 
usual  heavy  Spanish  style,  the  front  having  three  heavy  round 
towers,  like  many  of  the  church  buildings  erected  by  the 
Spaniards  in  South  America.  In  1851,  the  old  building  was 
enlarged  and  remodeled  to  its  present  state,  and,  on  the 
heavy  round  tower  steeplesi  were  raised  at  a  cost  of  over  $100,- 
000.  The  facade  was  changed  and  made  more  imposing  by 
the  addition  of  columns  and  pilasters.  In  1892  the  interior 
was  decorated  and  frescoed  by  Humbrecht.  In  the  centre  of 
the  ceiling  St.  Peter  is  represented  receiving  the  shepherd's 
staff*  from  our  Lord,  and  in  the  panels  around  are  the  four 
Evangelists.  In  the  arch  are  the  twelve  Apostles.  The  main 
or  high  altar  of  colored  marbles  and  wood  richly  gilded  has  a 
reredos  of  columns  with  a  cornice  on  which  are  the  words 
"Ecce  Panis  Angelorum''  (Behold  the  Bread  of  Angels),  sur- 
mounted with  statues  of  Faith,  Hope  and  Charity.  The  large 
mural  painting  over  the  altar  represents  the  patron  saint  of 


Sights  of  the  City.  147 

the  Cathedral,  "St.  Louis,  King  of  France,  proclaiming  the 
Crusades, ' '  and  on  the  ceiling  of  the  chancel  is  the  sacrifice  of 
the  Divine  Lamb.  Beneath  the  altar  is  a  large  vault,  in 
which  are  deposited  the  remains  of  former  archbishops  and 
bishops  of  the  archdiocese.  Around  the  sides  of  the  chancel 
are  the  stalls  of  the  canons  of  the  Cathedral  and  those  of  the 
wardens,  called  marguilliers.  To  the  left  is  the  throne  of  the 
Archbishop  with  the  seats  of  his  attendants,  and  on  the  walls 
are  numerous  tablets  to  the  memory  of  former  bishops.  Over 
the  organ  is  a  graceful  fresco  of  St.  Cecilia  resting  on  a  ])ank 
of  clouds,  the  best  work  of  the  artist,  with  the  inscription, 
''Sing  the  praises  of  the  Lord  on  reed  and  string  instru- 
ments." The  altar  {on  the  right)  dedicated  to  the  Sacred 
Heart  and  St.  Francis  de  Assissi,  has  a  frescoe  on  the  ceiling 
of  the  ''Agony  of  Our  Lord,"  and  the  altar  {on  the  left)  of 
Notre  Dame  de  Lourdes  has  one  of  the  ' '  Annunciation. ' ' 

Before  that  of  St.  Francis,  the  founder  of  the  church  lies 
buried.  On  the  marble  slab  is  inscribed  in  Spanish:  "Here 
rests  the  body  of  Don  Andres  Almonester  y  Roxas,  a  native  of 
Mayrenna,  in  the  Kingdom  of  Andalusia,  died  in  the  City  of 
New  Orleans,  on  the  26th  of  April,  1798,  at  the  age  of  74 
years.  A  Knight  of  the  distinguished  order  of  Charles  the 
Third  of  Spain;  Colonel  of  the  Militia  of  the  Provincial 
Spanish  troops;  founder  and  donor  of  this  church  and  of  the 
St.  Charles  Hospital;  founder  of  the  Hospital  of  the  Lazar- 
ines;  founder  of  the  Ursuline  Convent;  founder  of  the  Girls' 
School,  and  of  the  Presbytery,  all  of  which  he  built  in  this 
city  at  his  expense.  Rest  in  peace."  The  altar  of  our  Lady 
of  Lourdes,  on  the  left,  is  in  the  form  of  a  grotto  representing 
the  grotto  of  Lourdes,  in  France,  with  the  figures  of  the 
Virgin  and  the  peasant  at  the  spring.  Around  the  altar 
numerous  and  curious  exvotos  (offerings)  are  hung  by  parties 
who  have  had  some  wish  granted  through  the  intercession  of 
Our  Lady  of  Lourdes.  These  offerings  consist  of  tablets  with 
dates  inscribed,  pictures,  crosses,  photographs,  and  various 
kinds  of  articles.  Before  the  altar  is  the  family  vault  of  the 
Marigny-Mandeville  family,  a  distinguished  noble  family  of 
France,  long  settled  in  Louisiana,  and  after  whom  several 
streets  and  villages  are  named.  Mass  is  said  at  different  hours 
on  Sunday.  The  early  mass  is  usually  attended  by  the  market 
goers,  as  is  easily  seen  by  the  number  of  market  baskets  in  the 
church.     At  10  o'clock,  grand  high  mass  is  celebrated,  with 


148  New  Orleans  Guide. 

music.  On  Christmas,  Easter  Sunday,  Whitsunday,  and  other 
great  festivals,  the  Archbishop  celebrates,  with  great  pomp,  a 
Pontifical  High  Mass.  The  ceremony  lasts  a  little  longer  than 
usual,  and  the  congregation  does  not  withdraw  until  the  pro- 
cession escorting  the  Archbishop  passes  down  the  main  aisle 
and  out  of  the  Cathedral.  The  procession  is  composed  of  all 
the  priests  and  officials,  and  before  the  Archbishop  is  carried, 
according  to  an  old  custom,  a  lighted  candle.  The  sexton  or 
beadle  of  the  church,  called  the  Suisse  in  French,  is  in  attend- 
ance at  all  services,  to  keep  order  and  to  show  strangers  to 
seats.  He  is  easily  recognized  by  his  cocked  hat,  red  coat, 
Word  and  halberd,  circulating  through  the  church,  a  terror  to 
bad  boys  and  stray  dogs. 

Jesuits'  Church. 

Roman  Catholic,  on  corner  of  Baronne  and  Common  streets,  one  square 
from  Canal  street.  Open  every  day  from  6  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.  High  mass,  with 
music,  on  Sundays  at  11  a.  m.  Congregation  large,  and  the  most  fashionable 
Catholic  Church  in  the  city. 

Among  the  pioneers  of  Louisiana  were  some  Jesuit  priests, 
who  established  themselves  on  a  grant  of  land  made  to  their 
order,  situated  a  few  hundred  yards  above  Canal  street. 
Shortly  afterwards,  during  the  religious  quarrels,  their  lands 
were  confiscated,  and  they  were  expelled  from  the  colony.  It 
was  not  until  1847  that  the  order  returned  to  New  Orleans  and 
founded  the  second  and  actual  establishment  at  the  corner  of 
Baronne  and  Common  streets.  As  in  other  countries,  the 
' '  Fathers  of  the  Society  of  Jesus, ' '  as  they  are  called,  are  self- 
supporting,  and  have  flourishing  schools.  Commencing  about 
the  year  1848  in  a  small  house  in  which  they  kept  a  school, 
they  opened  a  little  chapel,  and  these  buildings  have  become 
gradually  extended,  until  they  comprise  a  large  college  with 
great  buildings  of  brick  of  an  attractive  design,  by  Owen,  the 
architect,  who  also  designed  the  school  building  on  the  lower 
side  of  the  church,  a  memorial  erected  by  theMcCloskey  family. 
The  magnificent  church,  called  the  Church  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception,  with  the  college,  occupy  over  a  quarter  of  a  square 
in  the  heart  of  the  city.  The  church,  which  is  in  the  Moresque 
style  of  architecture,  was  designed  by  Father  Cambiaso,  a 
member  of  the  order.  The  building  is  135  feet  long  by  60  feet 
wide,  and  fronts  on  Baronne  street,  with  two  towers,  on  which 
steeples  are  to  be  erected.  The  interior  is  lofty  and  graceful, 
the   galleries   being  built  on   a   series   of  horse-shoe   shaped 


=TiTTiifn[iiiii8ii.iT;iiiim -4  ^  S^ 


jf:suits    church. 


150  New  Orleans  Guide. 

arches,  resting  on.  slender  iron  columns  of  Moorish  design. 
The  nave  is  about  80  feet  in  height,  and  is  well  lighted  by 
large  stained  glass  windows.  The  interior  is  handsomely  orna- 
mented with  carving  and  gilding.  The  round  windows  are 
of  beautiful  stained  glass,  each  window  being  composed  of 
very  small  pieces  of  glass  put  together  in  a  most  artistic  man- 
ner, to  form  a  picture  representing  a  station  of  the  "way  of 
the  cross,"  before  which  the  devout  say  their  prayers.  The 
stained  glass  in  the  lower  windows  represent  scenes  in  the 
lives  of  the  Jesuits. 

On  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  a  duplicate  of  the  famous 
statue  of  St.  Peter,  which  is  in  St.  Peter's,  Rome.  Some  anti- 
quarians claim  that  the  statue  in  Rome  is  not  that  of  St. 
Peter,  but  a  pagan  statue.  However,  it  is  much  venerated  in 
Rome  by  the  faithful  kissing  its  toe,  and  in  New  Orleans  the 
•same  custom  is  followed.  The  main,  or  high  altar,  is  of  bronze, 
gilded  and  enamel,  and  of  the  same  order  of  architecture  as 
the  church.  Strangers  should  examine  the  altar  as  it  is,  per- 
haps, one  of  the  few  of  its  kind  in  the  world,  and  when  lighted 
by  electricity  is  beautiful.  If  you  wish,  get  the  sexton  to  turn 
on  the  lights.  From  the  platform  on  which  the  altar  stands  to 
the  top  of  the  cross  it  is  about  25  feet,  and  the  altar  is  com- 
posed of  several  arches,  supporting  small  domes.  In  the  cen- 
tre the  crucifix  is  placed,  and  beside  it  are  the  four  evangelists 
and  two  angels.  The  front  is  adorned  with  bas-reliefs,  and  the 
whole  work,  which  was  done  in  Paris,  at  a  cost  of  $14,000,  is  a 
remarkable  work  of  art.  A  dome  of  180  feet  high  rises  over 
the  altar,  and  in  the  wall  is  a  niche  in  which  is  placed  the 
Virgin  Mary's  altar,  to  Avhom  the  church  is  dedicated.  The 
statue  of  the  Virgin  is  of  white  marble,  and  originally  was 
ordered  by  Queen  Marie  Amelie,  of  France,  for  the  royal 
chapel  of  the  Palace  of  the  Tuileries,  but  the  sudden  revolu- 
tion of  1848,  driving  the  Orleans  dynasty  from  the  throne, 
this  statue  was  offered  for  sale  some  years  afterwards,  and 
purchased  by  the  exertions  of  several  ladies  for  this  church. 
Over  the  statue  are  the  words,  '^ Maria  sine  lahe  concepta." 
(Mary  conceived  without  labor.)  At  night  services,  and  on 
great  festivals,  it  is  surrounded  by  innumerable  concealed 
electric  lights,  which  give  it  a  beautiful  and  imposing  appear- 
ance, and  make  the  niche  in  which  it  is  placed  one  of  the  chief 
attractions  of  the  church.  In  the  dome  are  the  statues  of  the 
four  Evangelists,  and  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul. 


Sights  of  the  City.  151 

In  the  chapel,  on  the  right,  is  St.  Joseph's  altar,  with  beau- 
tiful stained  glass  memorial  window,  the  gift  of  Mr.  J. 
O'Brien,  and  in  that  of  the  left,  is  the  altar  dedicated  to  the 
Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus.  The  Jesuits'  Church  is  celebrated  f'>r 
its  exquisite  music,  and,  at  high  mass  (Sundays,  11  a.  m.),  is 
crowded  by  strangers  to  hear  the  grand  compositions  of 
Mozart,  Weber  and  Gounod,  rendered  in  the  most  artistic 
style  by  the  well-trained  voices  of  the  opera  and  the  Creole 
population.  On  Easter  Sunday  and  other  grand  festivals  of 
the  church  it  is  considered  particularly  fine,  and  the  church  is 
very  crowded.  Brother  Ignatius,  the  polite  and  venerable 
sexton,  will  always  show  strangers  to  seats  at  their  request, 
but,  in  order  to  secure  them,  they  should  arrive  before  mass 
begins.  Adjoining  the  church  is  the  large  college  of  the 
Jesuits,  which  is  well  patronized,  and  in  the  College  is  the 
Semmes  Memorial  Chapel,  a  perfect  little  gem  of  Moorish 
architecture,  designed  by  Alison  Owen,  an  architect  of  New 
Orleans,  and  worthy  of  inspection  by  lovers  of  ecclesiastical 
architecture.  The  Jesuit  Fathers  devote  much  time  to  the 
education  of  the  young  and  to  the  advancement  of  religion, 
their  object  in  life  being  well  expressed  in  their  motto  ''ad 
major  em  Dei  Gloriam"  (To  the  greater  glory  of  God.) 

New  St.  Joseph's. 

Roman  Catholic,  corner  Tulane  avenue  and  Derbigny  street.  Take,  on  Canal 
street,  the  Tulane  cars  to  door.     Open  daily. 

St.  Joseph's  is  one  of  the  largest  churches  in  the  United 
States,  and  is  the  most  prominent  landmark  in  the 
city.  The  foundation  stone  Avas  laid  by  Archbishop 
Perche,  on  December  8,  1871,  and  the  construction  of  a 
Gothic-Romanesque  church,  110  feet  front  by  225  feet  deep, 
after  a  design  by  Keeley  of  Brooklyn,  was  immediately  begun. 
As  the  work  advanced  the  heavy  walls  settled,  and  when  the 
building  was  roofed  over  it  became  almost  a  total  wreck,  but 
finally  the  defects  wej-e  overcome  and  the  church  was  com- 
pleted, except  the  spires  which  are  to  be  200  feet  high,  and 
consecrated  on  December  18,  1892,  by  Archbishop  Janssens. 
On  the  front  are  bas-reliefs  of  Pius  IX,  Archbishop  Perche. 
niches  with  statues  of  saints,  and  an  iron  cross  25  feet  high. 
A  noble  entrance  vestibule,  supported  by  three  columns  of  un- 
polished granite,  gives  access  to  the  interior,  which  is  215  feet 


152  New  Orleans  Guide. 

long,  with  a  nave  95  feet  high.  The  rose  window,  21  feet  in 
diameter  in  the  organ  loft,  the  work  of  Munich  artists,  costing 
$1800,  represents  Christ  and  the  twelve  apostles.  Around  the 
sides  of  the  church  are  the  stations  of  the  cross,  bas-reliefs  of 
artistic  merit  from  Munich,  which  are  worthy  of  a  close  in- 
spection. The  church  seats  1600,  and  the  visitor  on  entering  is 
impressed  by  its  lofty  nave  supported  by  beautiful  gigantic 
columns  of  highly  polished  red  Missouri  granite. 

St.  Stephen  ^s. 

Roman  Catholic,  corner  Napoleon  avenue  and  Magazine  street.  Take  Napo- 
leon cars  on  Canal  street. 

Another  of  the  beautiful  and  artistic  churches  of  New 
Orleans,  is  St.  Stephen's,  a  large  brick  and  stone  church, 
designed  by  Carter.  The  tower  is  of  graceful  design  and  will 
be  one  of  the  handsomest  and  most  imposing  in  the  United 
States,  and  is  to  be  ornamented  with  bas-reliefs  and  statuary  in 
light-colored  stone. 

St.  Alphonsus  Church. 

Roman  Catholic,  on  Constance  street,  between  St.  Andrew  and  Josephine 
streets.  Take,  on  Canal  street,  the  Magazine  cars  to  the  corner  of  St.  Andrew 
street,  and  walk  one  square  towards  the  river.     Open  from  5  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m. 

Among  the  churches  most  admired  by  strangers  are  the  three 
churches  built  by  the  Redemptorist  Order,  and  called  St. 
Alphonsus,  St.  Mary's  and  Notre  Dame  de  Bon  Secours,  all 
situated  in  the  upper  part  of  the  city,  within  one  square  of 
each  other  and  remarkable  for  the  magnificence  of  their  inte- 
riors. St.  Alphonsus,  situated  on  Constance  street,  is  an  edifice 
built  of  brick  in  the  Renaissance  style,  with  two  towers,  on 
which  steeples  with  clocks  are  to  be  ultimately  erected.  Over 
the  main  door,  in  a  niche,  is  a  statue  of  St.  Alphonsus  to  whom 
the  church  is  dedicated.  The  edifice,  which  is  70x150  feet, 
with  a  seating  capacity  of  2,500  persons,  was  commenced  in 
1855  and  consecrated  April  25th,  1858,  but  the  interior  was  not 
completed  until  1867.  On  entering  the  church  the  stranger  is 
immediately  struck  by  the  profuse  ornamentation,  on  which 
the  painter  and  gilder  have  done  their  utmost.  The  domi- 
nant colors  are  white  and  gold,  and  the  lavish  way  the  latter 
has  been  used,  while  giving  an  air  of  great  richness,  is  consid- 
ered by  many  to  be  in  questionable  taste.  The  main  altar,  con- 
sisting of  several  gilded  columns,  and  the  side  altars,  were  the 


Sights  of  the  City.  153 

work  of  Boucher,  of  Chicago,  and  cost  $8,000.  Over  the  main 
altar  is  a  beautiful  painting  by  a  Roman  artist,  now  dead,  rep- 
resenting St.  Alphonsus  celebrating  mass.  The  faces  of  the 
angels  are  beautiful,  but  the  best  executed  faces  are  those  of 
the  two  priests  on  the  right  of  the  saint.  Before  the  side  altars 
lie  buried  some  of  the  pastors  of  the  church  who  belonged  to 
the  Redemptorist  Order.  On  the  ceiling  are  some  poorly  exe- 
cuted frescoes.  The  centre  panel  represents  the  crowning  of 
St.  Alphonsus  in  heaven,  the  smaller  panels,  the  Ascension  of 
our  Lord  and  the  Assumption  of  the  Blessed  Virgin.  Crossing 
the  street  the  visitor  enters  the  courtyard  of  the  Redemptorist 
convent.  This  order  has  managed,  in  a  few  years,  to  build 
three  churches,  and  to  cluster  around  them  several  convents 
and  schools.  Alongside  of  St.  Alphonsus  Church  rises  a  large 
building  used  for  the  church  school,  which  has  a  good  attend- 
ance. 

St.  Mary's  op  the  Assumption. 

Roman  Catholic,  on  Josephine  street  near  Magazine  street.  Take,  on  Canal 
street,  the  Magazine  cars  to  .Josephine  street,  and  walk  one  square  towards 
the  river.  Open  daily  from  5  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.  Entrance,  on  week  days,  in 
the  court-yard,  at  the  foot  of  the  tower. 

The  most  striking  object  in  approaching  St.  Mary's,  some- 
times called  the  German  Church,  is  the  gracefully  designed 
belfry  tower,  190  feet  high,  standing  in  the  courtyard  near  the 
side  door.  The  church  is  built  in  the  Renaissance  style,  and 
the  exterior  is  plain,  but  the  interior  is  highly  orng,mented. 
The  ceiling,  covered  with  a  mass  of  stucco  tracery,  is  well 
arched,  and  is  supported  by  large  columns  extending  from  the 
floor  to  the  roof  of  the  building.  The  most  remarkable  feature 
about  the  interior  is  the  vast  number  of  most  life-like  colored 
statues  of  saints  and  bishops  in  costume,  and  it  is  worth  the 
while  to  take  a  seat  in  one  of  the  front  pews  and  examine  in 
detail  the  decorations  of  the  high  altar.  This  altar  is  consid- 
ered one  of  the  handsomest  of  its  kind  in  America,  and,  with 
the  two  side  altars,  cost  $10,000,  in  Munich.  On  top  of  the 
tabernacle,  which  is  one  mass  of  gilding,  is  the  Paschal  lamb, 
and  above,  the  coronation  of  the  Virgin,  all  in  life-size  figures. 
Above  these  figures,  in  stained  glass,  is  the  Assumption  of  the 
Virgin.  On  each  side  of  the  altar  are  the  statues  of  the  four 
Evangelists,  that  of  St.  Peter,  on  the  left,  being  the  most  life- 
like. Beneath  the  chancel  are  buried  many  of  the  Redempto- 
rist fathers;  their  names  are  graven  on  the  stone,  but  the  re- 


154  New  Orleans  Guide. 

membrance  of  their  good  deeds  is  more  deeply  graven  on  the 
hearts  of  thousands  of  their  parishioners.  A  gilded  lamp, 
always  burning,  hangs  before  the  altar.  On  the  wall  of  the 
church  is  a  crucifix,  with  the  Saviour  wounded  and  bleeding 
from  his  side  and  hands.  The  face  is  that  of  a  man  having 
died  in  great  agony,  and  it  is  a  painful  object  to  contemplate. 
Near  the  crucifix  is  the  altar  of  St.  Alphonsus,  with  a  most 
natural  looking  statue  of  the  saint,  perhaps  the  best  in  the 
church.  The  pulpit  is  hung  to  a  column,  and  it  is  a  remarkable 
piece  of  workmanship.  Around  its  side  are  statuettes  of  saints, 
and  on  top,  in  a  sort  of  cupola,  is  that  of  the  Virgin,  while  the 
Holy  Ghost,  in  the  form  of  a  dove,  is  seen  descending  from  the 
ceiling. 

St.  Patrick's  Church. 

Roman  Catholic,  on  Camp,  near  corner  of  Girod  street,  one  square  above 
Lafayette  Square.  Prom  Canal  street  (seven  squares  distant),  take  Prytania 
or  Magazine  cars.  Open  daily,  6  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.  Fine  view  from  the  steeple, 
250  feet  high.  The  ascent  is  easy.  Apply  to  sexton,  at  the  parsonage.  Fee, 
25  cents. 

The  Irish  population  determined  to  build  a  church  of  their 
own,  and  selected  a  site  on  Camp  street.  On  this  spot  they 
erected  the  large  Gothic  church  after  the  style  of  the  celebrated 
York  Minster  Cathedral,  and  dedicated  it  to  St.  Patrick,  the 
patron  saint  of  Ireland.  Although  great  care  was  taken  in  lay- 
ing the  foundations,  its  tower  proved  too  heavy,  and  shortly 
after  its  construction,  commenced  to  settle  on  one  side,  so  that 
it  became  necessary  to  brace  it  up.  The  chief  beauty  of  the 
church  is  the  tower,  which  is  of  brick,  and  stuccoed  to  repre- 
sent rough  stone.  Its  height  is  250  feet,  and  it  was  designed  to 
make  it  much  higher.  The  interior  of  the  church  is  Gothic, 
with  but  little  ornamentation.  At  the  end  are  three  altars,  the 
centre,  or  high  altar,  standing  in  a  recess  in  the  rear  wall,  on 
which  are  three  mural  paintings.  The  centre  panel  represents 
the  Transfiguration;  the  right  one,  St.  Peter  walking  on  the 
waves  to  meet  the  Saviour ;  the  left  panel  represents  St.  Pat- 
rick baptizing  the  Queens  of  Ireland  in  the  Halls  of  Tara.  The 
high  altar  is  of  wood  in  the  same  style  of  architecture,  and  on 
a  festival,  when  ornamented  with  many  lights,  is  very  impos- 
ing. Beneath  the  floor  of  the  chancel  is  buried  Father  Mullen, 
the  founder  of  the  church,  who  died  a  few  years  ago,  very  old 
and  much  beloved  by  all  who  knew  him. 


CHRIST  CHURCH  CATHEDRAL. 


156  New  Orleans  Guide. 

St.  Maurice. 

Roman  Catholic,  corner  of  Hancock  and  Royal  streets.  Take  Levee  and 
Barracks  or  Dauphine  cars  on  Canal  street  to  Hancock  street,  about  two 
miles.     Church  open  6  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m. 

This  church,  situated  near  the  United  States  Barracks,  in 
the  lower  part  of  the  city,  is  a  plain  brick  edifice  in  the  shape 
of  a  cross,  and  is  much  resorted  to  by  certain  people  on  account 
of  a  statue  of  the  Virgin.  It  is  believed  by  many  that  three 
wishes  made  before  this  statue  on  the  15th  of  August,  the 
Feast  of  the  Assumption,  are  granted,  and  hence  this  shrine 
attracts  people  from  all  parts  of  the  city. 

Christ  Church  Cathedral. 

Episcopalian,  corner  St.  Charles  and  Sixth  streets.  Open  daily.  Services 
on  Sunday  at  11  a.  m.  and  6  p.  m.     Take  St.  Charles  cars  on  Canal  street. 

The  pioneer  Protestant  congregation  of  the  Southwest  is  that 
of  Christ  Church,  which  organized  itself  in  January,  1805.  At 
that  time,  the  Protestant  population  of  New  Orleans  was  so 
small,  and  belonged  to  so  many  different  sects,  that  a  ballot 
was  necessary  to  decide  the  denomination  of  the  sect  to  which 
this  church  should  attach  itself.  The  result  of  the  ballot  was 
as  follows:  Episcopalian,  45  votes;  Presbyterian,  7;  Metho- 
dist, 1.  Total,  53  votes.  The  new  church  was,  in  accordance 
with  the  ballot,  organized  as  an  Episcopalian  Church,  and 
attached  to  the  diocese  of  New  York.  In  1847,  the  old  church 
was  found  to  be  too  small,  and  the  Rev.  Dr.  Hawkes,  the  pas- 
tor, determined  to  build  a  larger  edifice  at  the  corner  of  Canal 
and  Dauphine  streets.  The  church  was  built,  but  in 
1886,  the  congregation  having  moved  up  town,  a  new 
Gothic  church  was  erected  from  designs  by  Valk,  and 
the  chapel  and  gujld  house  by  Sully.  The  interior 
is  rich  with  stained  glass  windows,  memorial  windows 
to  the  Slocomb  family,  and  the  walls  have  a  warm 
neutral  tint.  The  church  is  liglited  by  electricity  and 
has  a  seating  capacity  of  800.  The  baptismal  font  of  white 
marble,  the  gift  of  Mr.  Grimshaw,  is  of  a  pretty  design  in  the 
form  of  a  cross.  In  the  tower  are  placed  the  old  memorial  tab- 
lets of  former  wardens,  and  among  them  one  to  the  memory  of 
Richard  Relf,  a  warden  for  many  years,  the  friend  and  exec- 
utor of  Daniel  Clark,  whom  Myra  Clark  Gaines  for  over  sixty 
years  in  the  courts  claimed  as  her  father.     Christ  Church  has 


TRINITY  CHURriT. 


158  New  Orleans  Guide. 

been  designated  as  the  Pro-Cathedral,  and  the  dean  acts  as 
rector,  and  the  Bishop's  residence  (See  House)  is  adjoining. 

Trinity  Church. 

Episcopalian,  on  Jaclison  street,  near  Prytania  street.  Take,  on  Canal 
street,  the  Prytania  or  Jackson  cars.  Services  on  Sundays.  11  a.  m.  and  r» 
p.  ra. 

One  of  the  best  attended  churches  of  the  city  is  Trinity 
Church,  situated  on  Jackson  street,  and  surrounded  by  mag- 
nificent residences.  The  building,  which  is  in  the  Gothic  style, 
is  large,  and  is  noted  for  a  beautiful  memorial  window  to 
Bishop  Polk,  well  known  during  the  war  as  ' '  General  Polk,  the 
Fighting  Bishop. ' '  The  art  of  staining  glass,  that  is,  mixing 
the  colors  into  the  glass,  was  known  in  the  middle  ages,  but 
was  lost  for  several  centuries,  and  the  secret  has  been  only 
recently  discovered  again.  As  this  window  is  one  of  the  few 
of  its  kind  in  America,  it  is  worth  the  while  to  examine  it  care- 
fully. The  window  is  divided  into  three  compartments,  each 
forming  a  picture  by  itself.  In  the  lower  one,  "The  Last  Sup- 
per. ' '  In  the  one  above,  ' '  The  Crucifixion ; ' '  and  in  the  upper, 
' '  The  Ascension. ' '  Trinity  Church  has  a  fine  choir,  and  of  the 
Protestant  churches  has  the  reputation  of  rendering  the  finest 
music. 

St.  Paulas  Chitrch. 

Episcopalian,  on  Camp  street,  corner  of  Gaiennie  street.  Take,  on  Canal 
street.  Magazine  cars.     Services,  Sundays,  11  a.  m.  and  7  :30  p.  m. 

On  Camp  street,  one  square  above  its  intersection  with  Pry- 
tania street,  is  St.  Paul's,  a  modern  church,  noted  for  its  sim- 
ple and  quaint  looking  interior.  In  the  chancel  is  a  handsome 
marble  altar  with  a  bas-relief  of  the  Last  Supper. 

Free  Church  op^  the  Annunciation. 

Episcopalian,  corner  Camp  and  Race  streets.  Take  Magazine  cars.  Spr 
vices  on  Sundays.  11  a.  m.  and  5  p.  m. 

This  church,  with  its  free  pew  system  and  low  church  ser- 
vices, has  a  large  congregation.  The  quartette  choir  renders 
fine  music.  In  the  chancel  is  a  fine  stained  glass  window  that 
cost  $3000,  representing  scenes  in  the  life  of  the  Virgin. 
S?t rangers  are  always  welcome  here. 


TEMPLE    SINAI. 


160  New  Orleans  Guide. 

First  Presbyterian  Church. 

Presbyterian,  on  Lafayette  Square,  near  St.  Charles  street.  Take,  on  Canal 
street,  the  St.  Charles  or  Prytania  cars.  Services,  Sundays,  11  a.  m.  and  7 
p.  m. 

On  Lafayette  Square  is  situated  the  principal  Presbyterian 
Church  of  New  Orleans,  of  which  the  Rev.  Dr.  B.  M.  Palmer 
was  formerly  the  pastor.  The  church,  which  is  a  large  Gothic 
structure,  measures  75x90  feet,  with  a  ceiling  42  feet  high,  and 
at  its  side  is  a  slender  and  graceful  steeple  219  feet  high.  The 
whole  design  of  the  exterior  is  noble,  and  appears  well  from 
the  square,  while  the  interior  is  lofty  and  well  arranged.  Dr. 
Palmer  was  noted  for  the  eloquence  of  his  sermons,  and  died 
in  1902  from  the  result  of  a  railroad  accident. 


Prytania  Street  Presbyterian  Church. 

Take  Prytania  cars  to  Josephine  street.  Services,  Sundays,  11  a.  m.  and 
7  :30  p.  m. 

This  church,  erected  in  1901,  after  designs  by  Owen,  is  the 
second  Presbyterian  congregation  in  the  city.  The  building  is 
constructed  of  a  light  colored  stone  and  has  all  the  latest 
modern  improvements,  with  lecture  rooms  and  a  large  audito- 
rium handsomelv  frescoed. 


Temple  Sinai. 

Reformed  Jewish,  on  Carondelet  street,  near  corner  of  Howard  avenue. 
Take,  on  Canal  street,  the  St.  Charles  or  Jackson  cars.  Services,  Friday  even- 
ings at  6  p.  na.  ;    Saturdays  at  10  a.  m. 

A  few  years  ago  the  Reformed  Jews  organized  a  congrega- 
tion and  built  the  Temple  Sinai  under  the  guidance  of  their 
eloquent  pastor,  the  Rev.  James  K.  Gutheim.  The  temple  is 
crowned  by  two  small  towers,  which,  during  certain  festivals, 
are  illuminated.  The  Friday  evening  services,  which  are  con- 
ducted mostly  in  English,  according  to  the  new  forms,  are  very 
well  attended.  The  music  by  the  choir  and  the  chanting  is 
very  impressive,  and  attracts  a  large  number  of  visitors.  The 
sexes  in  the  temple  are  not  separated  as  in  Orthodox  Jewish 
congregations,  and  gentlemen  are  expected  to  remove  their 
hats  on  entering. 


Sights  of  the  City.  161 

Carondelet  Methodist  Episcopal  Church. 

Methodist  Episcopal  South,  on  Carondelet  street,  between  Lafayette  and 
Girod  streets.     Services,  Sundays,  at  11  a.  m.  and  7  :30  p.  m. 

The  principal  and  oldest  Methodist  Episcopal  congregation 
in  the  city  worship  in  the  above  named  church,  erected  before 
the  late  Civil  War,  through  the  liberality  and  exertions  of 
Messrs.  McGehee  and  Hill,  two  prominent  Methodists  of  Louis- 
iana. The  church  is  a  brick  edifice  with  an  Ionic  portico,  and 
is  crowned  by  a  graceful  cupola  modeled  after  the  monument 
of  Lysicrates  in  Greeccs  sometimes  called  the  Lantern  of  Dio- 
genes, and  considered  the  purest  specimen  of  the  Corinthian 
order  of  architecture. 

Greek  Church. 

On  Dorgenois  street,  near  Esplanade  street.  Take  Esplanade  cars  to  Dor- 
genois  street.    For  admission,  apply  at  sexton's  house. 

The  Greek  Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity  is  a  small  church 
where  services  are  occasionally  held.  The  ornaments  of  the 
altar  were  presented  by  the  late  Empress  of  Russia. 


CITY   GOVERNMENT. 

The  city  is  governed  under  the  city  charter  of  1896  (Act 
45),  by  a  Council  elected  from  the  different  wards  and  by  a 
Mayor,  City  Comptroller,  City  Treasurer,  Commissioner  of 
Public  Works,  and  Commissioner  of  Police  and  Public  Build- 
ings. The  Council  meets  weekly  to  legislate  for  the  city,  and 
its  sessions,  which  are  held  in  the  City  Hall,  are  open  to  the 
public.  The  valuations  for  State  and  city  taxation  are  made 
by  a  Board  of  Assessors,  appointed  by  the  Governor,  and,  on 
their  valuation,  a  tax  of  22  mills  is  annually  raised,  which  is 
devoted  to  the  payment  of  the  interest  on  the  public  debt, 
expenses  of  the  city  administration,  public  schools,  police, 
sewerage,  etc.  The  bonded  debt  of  the  city  amounted,  in 
1902,  to  $17,286,490,  but  will  be  increased  by  the  sewerage 
bonds  when  issued.  The  total  valuation  of  real  and  personal 
property  of  the  city  by  the  assessors  amounted,  in  1902,  to 
$147,201,984,  and  on  this  the  annual  tax  is  levied. 


162  New  Orleans  GuroE. 

CITY  HALL. 

()u  St.  Charles  street,  opposite  Lafayette  Square,  six  bloclis  from  Canal 
street.     Take  cars  on  St.  Cliarles  street. 

The  City  Hall  is  a  massive  building,  erected  in  1850  by 
(xallier,  modeled  after  the  celebrated  Temple  of  Minerva  of 
the  Grecian  Acropolis,  with  a  noble  portico  of  Ionic  columns. 
The  front  of  the  building  is  of  white  marble,  and  the  sides  of 
brick  stuccoed.  Over  the  portico  is  a  bas-relief  of  Justice,  sur- 
rounded by  figures  with  the  emblems  of  the  commerce  of  the 
Mississippi  Valley.  Ascending  to  the  main  door  by  a  series  of 
granite  steps,  a  long  hall,  paved  in  black  and  white  marble,  is 
entered,  extending  the  whole  length  of  the  edifice.  On  the 
right  and  left  as  you  enter  are  the  various  offices  of  the  City 
Government,  and  the  visitor  is  at  once  struck  by  the  conve- 
nience of  the  plan,  as  well  as  the  excellent  construction  of  this 
massive  building,  which,  although  built  on  a  marshy  founda- 
tion, is  without  cracks.  On  the  left  of  the  Hall ,  as  you  enter, 
are  the  Mavor's  'office  and  parlor,  in  the  latter  of  which  are 
portraits  of  -Taekson,  Washington  and  some  of  the  former 
Mayors.  This  room  is  an  elegant  apartment,  handsomely  fur- 
nished, and  is  used  by  the  Mayor  as  an  office.  On  the  right  of 
the  hall  is  the  City  Attorney's  office.  On  the  same  floor  is  the 
Council  Chamber,  a  handsome  apartment  used  for  the  sittings 
of  the  City  Council.  Descending  to  the  basement,  the  offices 
of  the  City  Treasurer  and  Comptroller  are  reached.  The  ele- 
vator will  carry  you  to  the  Fire  Alarm  office  on  the  roof,  which 
should  be  visited,  as  it  is  very  interesting  to  view  the  compli- 
cated machinery  by  the  which  the  fire  alarms  are  sounded. 
All  the  electric  fire  alarm  boxes,  placed  at  the  different  points 
in  the  city,  communicate  wdth  this  office,  and,  as  soon  as  the 
alarm  is  received,  the  number  of  the  box  sending  the  alarm  is 
struck  by  electricity  on  the  church  bells  by  the  operator  in 
this  room. 

The  City  Hall,  although  built  but  a  few  years,  has  been  the 
scene  of  many  stirring  events.  In  1861,  several  regiments 
received  their  colors  from  the  steps  in  front  of  this  building. 
In  1862,  Admiral  Bailey  came  to  the  City  Hall  to  demand  the 
surrender  of  the  city.  The  crowd  collected  around  the  build- 
ing in  such  numbers,  that  it  was  by  barricading  the  doors 
with  furniture,  that  they  were  kept  out  and  prevented  from 
maltreating  the  United  States  officers.  As  soon  as  the  inter- 
view was  over,  it  was  with  difficulty  that  the  officers  were  able 


BOSTON    CLUB, 


164  New  Orleans  Guide. 

to  escape  by  a  rear  door.  It  is  customary  for  the  Mayor  of  the 
city,  the  day  previous  to  Mardi  Gras,  to  receive  a  visit  from 
Rex,  and  to  present  him  the  keys  of  the  city  on  a  velvet  cush- 
ion, and  thus  inaugurate  the  Mardi  Gras  festivities. 


CLUBS. 

There  are  many  social  clubs  in  New  Orleans,  which  may  be 
classed  as  open  and  close  clubs.  To  the  former,  on  the  invita- 
tion of  members,  the  courtesies  of  the  club  are  extended  foi; 
fifteen  or  twenty  days,  and  on  departure  cards  are  generally 
left  for  the  president  and  members. 

Boston  Club. 

No.  824  Canal  street.  The  leading  club  of  the  city,  with  a 
limited  membership  of  bankers,  professional  men,  leading 
officials  and  merchants.  The  building  is  handsomely  fur- 
nished and  has  a  cafe  arranged  as  an  attractive  Winter 
garden. 

Pickwick  Club. 

No.  1028  Canal  street.  A  club  composed  of  professional 
men  and  merchants,  which  has  a  handsome  club-house  and  for 
years  has  been  a  favorite  club  for  men  active  in  city  life. 

Louisiana  Club. 

No.  122  Carondelet  street.  A  close  club  of  young  men 
where  strangers  are  not  admitted  and  has  a  small  member- 
ship. 

Varieties  Club. 

No.  919  Canal  street.  A  favorite  club,  which  has  its  domi- 
cile under  the  Grand  Opera  House,  to  which  the  members 
have  admission  in  a  space  reserved  immediately  in  the  rear  of 
the  orchestra. 

Chess,  Checkers  and  Whist  Club. 

No.  109  Baronne  street.  A  popular  and  flourishing  club 
originally  started  for  the  objects  its  title  calls  for,  but  has  be- 
come a  general  club  with  a  membership  of  eight  hundred,  and 
is  a  favorite  resort  of  the  young  element  of  the  city. 


PICKWICK  CLUB. 


166  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Harmony  Club. 

No.  2134  St.  Charles  avenue.  A  club  composed  of  Hebrew 
citizens,  which  occupies  a  handsome  club-house  of  Georgia 
granite,  designed  by  Torgesson.  It  is  one  of  the  most  prosper- 
ous clubs  in  the  city,  and  is  handsomely  appointed.  On  the 
upper  floor  is  a  large  ball-room  and  stage  which  is  rented  out 
at  times. 

Young  Men^s  Hebrew  Association. 

No.  1205  St.  Charles  avenue.  A  club  composed  of  the 
younger  Hebrew  element  of  the  city  and  has  a  good  member- 
ship. The  upper  part  of  the  building  is  used  as  a  public  hall, 
known  as  "the  Athenaeum,"  the  favorite  place  for  balls  and 
lectures. 

Round  Table.  Club. 

No.  1435  Jackson  avenue.  A  literary  club  of  a  good  mem- 
bership, composed  of  professional  men,  merchants  and  men  of 
letters.  During  the  winter  parlor  lectures,  discussions  and 
talks  on  the  topics  of  the  day  are  held. 

Transportation  Club. 

No.  306  Carondelet  street.  A  club  recently  organized  with 
a  full  membership,  composed  of  railroad  men  and  other  per- 
sons engaged  in  transportation.  Its  rooms  are  elegantly  fitted 
up  and  the  club  has  been  a  great  success  from  the  start. 

Choctaw  Club. 

No.  923  Canal  street.  A  Democratic  political  club  with  a 
large  membership  which  throngs  the  club-house  at  election 
times. 

French  Opera  House. 

In  the  French  Opera  House  on  Bourbon  street.  A  club 
composed  of  patrons  of  the  opera  who  use  it  as  a  lounge  be- 
tween the  acts. 

New  Louisiana  Jockey  Club. 

Office  No.  828  Common  street.  This  club  has  no  club-house, 
but  gives  one  week's  racing  in  the  Spring  at  the  end  of  th»* 
100  days  of  racing. 


,\\>  \\ 


168  New  OrijEAns  GuroE. 

Elks'  Home. 

The  club-house  lof  the  New  Orleans  Lodge  No.  30  of  the  Benevo- 
lent anjd  Protective  Order  of  Elks  is  situated  on  Elks  Place,  ^a  pretty 
little  park  fronting  on  Canal  street,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  the 
statue  of  an  elk  on  a  mound.  The  club-house  is  a  large  three-story 
mansion  well  larranged  for  a  club  and  handsomely  furnished.  The 
order  has  a  large  membership  in  the  city  and  is  a  very  popular 
oirganization,  as  the  badge  of  the  Elks  is  often  met  with  on  the 
streets  of  the  city.  New  Orleans  has  six  theatres  in  operation 
during  the  Winter,  so'  that  many  actors  are  constantly  in  the  city, 
with  whom  warm  fraternal  relations  are  maintained  by  the  Elks, 
and  a  delightful  social  intercourse  is  one  of  the  great  features  of 
the  Elks'  Home. 

Southern  Athletic  Club. 

No.  1504  Washington  avenue.  A  large  athletic  club  with  a 
good  membership  and  which  combines  the  social  feature  with 
athletics. 

Young  Men's  Gymnastic  Club. 

No.  224  North  Rampart  street.  A  popular  athletic  and 
social  club  with  many  arrangements  for  enjoyment  and  to 
which  additions  are  being  constantly  being  made.  The  white 
marble  swimming  tank,  fed  by  salt  water,  is  much  used  Win- 
ter and  Summer. 

New  Orleans  Tennis  Club. 

No.  4025  Saratoga  street.  The  membership,  composed  of 
ladies  and  gentlemen  of  society,  is  limited  and  the  club  is 
prosperous.  The  courts  are  well  arranged,  and  match  games, 
followed  by  afternoon  teas,  take  place  in  the  Spring. 

Audubon  Golf  Club. 

Walnut  street,  between  Irma  and  Felicia  streets.  This  club 
has  a  good  membership  and  a  gem  of  a  rustic  club-house.  The 
links  are  in  front  of  it  in  the  Audubon  Park. 

New  Orleans  Golf  Club. 

City  Park.  The  club,  recently  organized,  has  a  good  down 
town  membership  and  its  links  are  in  the  City  Park. 


170  New  O/iLEANS  Guide. 

New  Orleans  Polo  Club. 

City  Park.  The  Polo  Club,  organized  in  1902,  has  its 
grounds  in  the  City  Park,  where  the  games  take  place  in  the 
afternoon. 

Southern  Yacht  Club. 

At  West  End  Wharf.  Lake  Pontchartrain  and  its  neigh- 
boring-waters afford  fine  yachting  reaches,  and  the  Southern 
Yacht  Club,  with  an  enthusiastic  membership,  is  the  centre  of 
yachting.  In  the  Summer  the  annual  regatta  takes  place,  fol- 
lowed by  a  cruise  along  the  Sound. 

St.  John  Rowing  Club. 

West  End  (train  side).  The  oldest  rowing  club,  with  a 
full  membership. 

West  End  Rowing  Club. 

West  End  (train  side) .  A  very  popular  rowing  club,  which 
has  carried  off  many  prizes  and  produced  some  good  oarsmen. 

Louisiana  Boat  Club. 

Bayou  Bridge.  An  organization  composed  mostly  of  Cre- 
ole gentlemen  who  are  fond  of  boating. 


COTTON  TRADE. 

Carondelet  and  Gravier  streets  are  considered  the  centre  of 
the  cotton  business,  and  in  this  neighborhood  are  clustered  all 
the  laro-e  houses  dealing  in  cotton.  New  Orleans  is  the  largest 
cotton  port  in  the  world,  and  exports  annually  nearly  two 
millions  of  bales.  To  receive,  store,  sell  and  export  this  enor- 
mous amount,  requires  an  army  of  men,  and  furnishes  occupa- 
tion for  nearly  two-thirds  of  the  population.  The  value  of  the 
crop  annually  exported  is  estimated  to  ho  about  one  hundred 
millions  of  dollars,  and,  although  many  hands  are  needed  to 
move  this  crop,  perhaps  there  is  no  trade  which  is  more  syste- 
matically organized  and  requires  a  less  number  in  proportion 
to  its  value.  Cotton  is  planted  from  the  seed  every  year,  in 
the  month  of  March,  and  grows  to  the  height  of  about  four 
feet.  In  June,  the  blossoms  commence  to  appear,  which  after 
blooming  form  bolls  or  seed  pods.    These  burst  and  shed  small 


172  New  Orleans  Guide. 

seeds  to  which  the  cotton  lint  is  attached.    Fiekiag  cottoa  com- 
mences in  September,  and  by  December  the  crop  is  all  har- 
vested.   From  the  field,  the  cotton  in  seed  is  taken  in  baskets 
to  the  gin-house  and  there  the  seed  is  separated  by  a  gin  com- 
piled of  a  series  of  circular  saws,  enclosed  in  a  box.    Previous 
to  the  invention  of  the  gin,  by  Eli  Whitney,  the  seed  was  sep- 
arated by  hand,  which  was  a  long  and  tedious  task.     At  the 
gins,  sometimes  worked  by  steam,  are  presses  by  which  the 
cotton  is  pressed  into  bales  of  about  450  pounds  each,  bound 
with  bands  of  iron,  called  cotton  ties.     Before  the  war,  rope 
was  used,  but  since  then  iron  ties  have  taken  its  place,  and  are 
preferred  by  shippers.     The  railroads  and  steamboats  bring 
the  crop  to  market,  some  steamboats  carrying  as  much  as  five 
and  even  eight  thousand  bales  at  one  load.     As  soon  as  the 
boat  lands  at  the  city  wharf,  contractors  proceed  to  unload 
her  at  once,  sorting  out  the  cargo  on  the  levee  according  to 
consignments  which  are  distinguished  by  little  flags  of  differ- 
ent colors.     Merchants  advancing  money  to  planters  and  re- 
ceiving their  cotton,  are  called  ''cotton  factors."     The  factor 
selects  one  of  the  cotton  presses  of  the  city  to  store  his  receipts, 
where  they  pay  a  regular  season  price  for  each  bale.     The 
presses  contract  with  draymen  to  do  the  hauling  by  the  year, 
and  as  soon  as  the  cotton  is  ready  for  delivery,  it  is  hauled  to 
the  press.    So  well  is  the  handling  of  cotton  organized,  and  so 
expeditiously  are  the  details  carried  out  in  a  clockwork  man- 
ner, that  often  the  factor  finds  at  his  office,  in  the  morning, 
samples  of  the  cotton  which  has  arrived  during  the  previous 
night,  been  unloaded  at  daybreak,  hauled  to  the  press  and 
sampled.     Each  factor  has  a  weigher,  who  draws  a  sample 
from  each  bale,  rolls  it  up  in  stout  brown  paper,  with  the 
marks  of  the  bale  on  the  outside.    The  samples  are  laid  out  on 
the  factor's  tables,  and  the  brokers  of  the  buyers  for  export 
purchase  according  to  what  the  sample  represents.     Many  of 
the  houses  employ,  at  high  salaries,  cotton  classers  to  classify 
the  cotton,  which,  according  to  color,  cleanliness,  length  of 
fibre,  is  graded  as  inferior,  low  ordinary,  ordinary,  good  ordi- 
nary, low  middling,  good  middling,  middling  fair,  middling, 
etc.     Once  a  trade  is  consummated,  the  factor  gives  the  order 
to  his  press  to  deliver  the  cotton,  specifying  the  marks  thereon. 
The  factor's  weigher  proceeds  to  weigh  the  cotton,  makes  a 
return  to  his  principal,  and  the  buyer  pays  the  amount  within 
three  days.     The  buyer  has  the  cotton  re-weighed,  if  he  de- 
sires, engages  his  ocean  freight  and  orders  the  press  to  ship 


174  New  Orleans  Guide. 

the  cotton.  The  press  runs  the  bales  through  the  compress, 
reducing  the  size  of  the  bales  nearly  one-half,  and  for  this 
work  is  paid  about  40  cents  per  bale  by  the  ship,  as  a  vessel  is 
able  to  store  more  compressed  cotton  than  uncompressed. 


CREOLE   POPULATION. 

Strangers  often  make  a  great  error  in  supposing  that  the 
Creole  population  is  a  mixed  race  of  whites  and  blacks.  Judge 
Gayarre,  the  eminent  historian  of  Louisiana,  in  a  short  article 
on  the  subject,  says: 

"The  word  'Creole,'  in  French,  or  'Criolle, '  in  Spanish, 
'originally  meant  in  these  two  languages,  on  the  authority  of 
their  respective  dictionaries,  a  child  born  of  European  parents 
in  the  colonial  possessions  of  those  two  nations  in  America  or 
Africa.  Hence,  the  progeny  of  a  European  father  and  of  an 
Indian  or  African  mother,  and  vice  versa,  was  not  a  Creole 
according  to  the  legitimate  sense  of  the  word.  For  this  reason, 
the  negroes,  mulattoes,  and  Indians  never  were,  strictly  speak- 
ing, entitled  to  the  appellation  of  'Creoles'  in  Louisiana.  The 
Canadians  and  Mexicans,  on  the  other  hand,  were  evidently 
'Creoles,'  according  to  the  accepted  meaning  of  that  word  in 
French  and  Spanish,  but  I  believe  that  it  never  was  applied  to 
the  colonists  of  those  countries.  It  is  not  acknowledged  as 
properly  English  by  that  great  lexicographer.  Dr.  Samuel 
Johnson,  and  it  is  not  to  be  found  in  his  famous  dictionary. 
But  it  is  admitted  in  Webster's  and  recognized  by  other 
American  authorities,  as  having  the  meaning  which  I  have 
mentioned  in  the  preceding  lines.  It  is,  therefore,  singular 
that  probably  the  majority  of  the  population  of  the  United 
States  have  adopted  the  strange  idea  that  'Creole'  means  a 
colored  person,  partially  of  African  descent,  when  in  fact  it 
is  the  reverse,  and  signifies  only  one  of  pure  and  unmixed 
European  blood. 

"The  word  'Creole,'  rejected  in  Canada,  easily  domiciliated 
itself  in  Louisiana,  probably  in  consequence  of  the  proximity 
of  that  colony  to  the  West  Indies,  and  it  soon  assumed  a  very 
broad  signification.  It  meant  all  that  was  born,  created,  man- 
ufactured and  produced  within  her  limits,  be  it  animate  or 
inanimate  objects.  For  instance,  these  were  standing  expres- 
sions: Creole  negroes,  Creole  cattle,  Creole  horses,  Creole  corn, 
Creole  sugar  canes,  Creole  eggs,  Creole  chickens,  Creole  shoes, 


COTTON  EXCHANGE. 


176  •  New  Orleans  Guide. 

etc.  If  we  adhere  to  the  primary  signification  of  the  word, 
there  are  very  few  natives  of  Louisiana,  now  living,  who  can, 
since  the  cession  of  that  territory  to  the  United  States  in  1803, 
appropriately  call  themselves  Creoles,  because  they  were  not 
born  of  European  parents  in  a  French  or  Spanish  colony. 
Etymologically  speaking  the  Creoles  perished  when  colonial 
existence  ceased  for  them,  and  evolved  into  native  Louisian- 
ians.  But  if  the  word  'Creole'  is  used  simply  to  designate 
nowadays  the  descendants  of  the  ancient  French  and  Spanish 
population  of  our  State,  it  may  be  considered  as  not  being 
improperly  employed  and  may  even  be  fondly  cherished  as 
recalling  to  their  memory  an  origin  of  which  they  are  justly 
proud.     The  Creoles  are  the  'Knickerbockers'  of  Louisiana." 

COTTON   EXCHANGE. 

Corner  of  Carondelet  and  Gravier  streets.  Two  squares  distant  from  Canal 
street.     Strangers  admitted  to  tlie  gallery.     Elevator  entrance. 

The  Cotton  Exchange  is  an  elegant  building  of  the  Renais- 
sance style,  built  of  a  cream-colored  stone,  highly  sculptured 
with  bas-reliefs  and  other  appropriate  ornaments.  The  Cot- 
ton Exchange,  which  was  organized  in  February,  1871,  with  a 
membership  of  one  hundred  merchants,  now  exceeds  three 
hundred.  It  was  designed  as  an  association  to  regulate  and 
promote  the  cotton  trade  of  New  Orleans,  by  having  syste- 
matic rules  for  sampling,  buying,  selling  and  delivering  of 
cotton,  as  well  as  for  settling  disputes  by  arbitration.  The 
utility  of  this  institution  became  so  manifest  that  the  scope  of 
usefulness  was  enlarged  until,  to-day,  merchants  feel  that  it  is 
an  indispensable  assistance  to  the  trade.  Reports  of  the  re- 
ceipts of  cotton  at  all  ports,  as  well  as  exports,  meteorological 
reports,  crop  reports  are  posted  daily  on  the  blackboards. 

The  first  building  proving  too  small,  the  present  site  was 
selected  and  the  plan  of  Wolters,  of  Louisville,  adopted.  The 
edifice  was  erected  with  much  care,  under  the  supervision  of  a 
building  committee  presided  over  by  Thomas  D.  Miller,  Esq., 
and  the  present  magnificent  building,  complete  in  every 
minute  detail,  was  delivered  to  the  association  at  the  cost  of 
$380,000  for  the  ground  and  the  building. 

The  interior  is  one  large  handsome  apartment  of  graceful 
proportions  supported  by  Corinthian  columns  and  lighted  by 
three  crystal  chandeliers.  The  ceiling  is  frescoed,  and,  in  the 
centre,  are  paintings  set  in  panels  representing  Cavalier  de  la 


178  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Salle  taking  possession  of  Louisiana  in  the  name  of  the  Iting 
of  France ;  DeSoto  discovering  the  ]\Iississippi ;  a  view  of  a 
cotton  plantation,  and  a  view  of  Eads'  Jetties. 

At  one  end  of  the  room  is  a  ring,  where  cotton  futures  are 
sold.  When  the  prices  of  cotton  are  fluctuating  a  perfect  pan- 
demonium of  cries  to  sell  and  to  buy,  reigns  all  day  until  the 
closing  hours.  A  small  gallery  for  visitors,  accessible  from 
the  stairway  or  elevator,  is  always  open,  and  from  it  an  excel- 
lent view  can  be  obtained  of  the  animated  scene  below.  The 
upper  floors  of  the  building  are  occupied  as  offices,  and  an  ele- 
vator takes  the  visitor  to  the  roof,  from  which  there  is  a  pan- 
oramic view  of  the  city. 

COTTON  PRESSES. 

Orleans  and   Other  Presses. 

Take,  at  corner  of  Canal  and  Chartres  streets,  the  Tchoupitoulas  cars, 
which,  at  about  one  mile  distant  from  Canal  street,  pass  through  the  Cotton 
Press   quarter  of  the  city. 

One  of  the  great  sights  of  the  city  is  the  Cotton  Presses,  and 
an  examination  of  their  powerful  machinery  is  worthy  of  at- 
tention. As  a  ship  can  stow  more  bales  of  cotton  compressed, 
large  compresses  have  been  erected,  costing  each,  according  to 
size  and  power,  from  $20,000  to  $40,000.  The  bales  are  re- 
duced about  three-fourths  of  the  size  as  received  from  the 
interior.  For  this  service  the  ship  pays  about  40  cents  per 
bale,  and  is  thus  enabled  to  take  a  larger  cargo.  These  com- 
presses, about  twenty-five  in  number,  are  mostly  of  the  Morse, 
Tyler  and  other  patents,  and  it  is  a  curious  sight  to  see  these 
steam  giants,  with  strong  arms,  at  work.  The  bale  is  seized  by 
stout  negroes,  rolled  into  the  compress,  and  squeezed  by  it 
with  a  demoniac-like  hissing  sound.  The  iron  bands  or  ties 
are  tightened,  and  then  this  iron  giant  lets  go  its  victim  with 
a  gasp,  and  the  bale  rolls  out  very  much  reduced  in  size. 

COTTON  SEED  OIL  MILLS. 

The  manufacture  of  oil  from  cotton  seed  has,  of  late  years, 
developed  into  a  large  and  profitable  business  in  New  Or- 
leans. Since  the  late  war  a  great  many  mills  have  been  erected, 
so  that  at  present  there  are  many  mills  in  operation  in  differ- 
ent    parts     of    the     city.     {To     visit     the     large     mill     in 


Sights  op  the  City.  179 


Gretna,  take  Jackson  avenue  cars  to  ferry  and  walk 
one  square  below  the  ferry.)  Cotton  seed  comes  in 
the  form  of  a  seed  about  the  size  of  a  pea,  cov- 
ered with  lint  cotton.  This  lint  is  removed  by  the  gins  in  the 
country,  and  forms  what  is  known  as  "cotton."  The  seed 
comes  from  the  country  in  bags,  and  is  passed  through  several 
very  fine  gins,  so  as  to  remove  as  much  as  possible  of  the 
remaining  lint.  The  seed  is  then  passed  through  a  huUer, 
which  removes  the  hull,  leaving  a  little  kernel.  This  kernel  is 
ground  up,  steamed  and  placed  in  bags  about  eighteen  inches 
long,  and  these  bags  are  put  in  presses  and  the  oil  pressed 
out.  The  residuum  is  a  hard  yellow  cake,  called  in  commerce 
"oil  cake,"  which  is  exported  for  cattle  feed,  and  sometimes 
ground  into  meal  for  the  same  purpose.  Soap  is  made  from 
the  residuum  of  the  oil,  but  the  greater  part  of  the  oil  is  ship- 
ped to  Europe,  there  refined  and  sent  back  to  America,  after 
being  mixed  with  the  crushings  of  olives,  as  ' '  delicious  French 
and  Italian  sweet  olive  oil. ' '  The  hulls  are  sometimes  used  for 
paper  stock,  also  as  fuel  to  run  the  works  and  the  ashes  are 
good  for  fertilizers. 

COURTS. 

On  Jackson  Square.  Take  Levee  cars  to  the  Square  anrl  cross  it  to  the 
Court  Buildings. 

The  courts  of  the  State  for  the  Parish  of  Orleans  are  located 
in  the  City  of  New  Orleans  on  Jackson  Square.  The  Civil 
Code  of  laws  is  founded  on  the  ' '  Code  Napoleon, ' '  and  differs 
from  that  of  other  States  of  the  Union.  The  courts  always 
are  open  to  the  public,  and  a  new  courthouse  is  about  to  be 
erected. 

Supreme  Court  of  Louisiana. 

This  court,  the  highest  tribunal  of  the  State,  holds  its  ses- 
sions in  the  Cabildo,  or  old  court  buildings,  on  Jackson 
Square,  corner  of  St.  Peter  street,  commencing  the  first  Mon- 
day in  November.  The  court  consists  of  a  Chief  Justice  and 
four  Associate  Justices,  appointed  by  the  Governor  for  differ- 
ent terms. 

Court  of  Appeals. 

This  court,  recently  created,  consists  of  three  judges,  elected 
by  the  people,  and  holds  its  sessions,  commencing  in  Octo- 


180  New  Orleans  Guide. 

ber,  in  the  court  building  corner  Jackson  Square  and  St.  Ann 
street. 

Civil  District  Court. 

The  Civil  District  Court  for  the  Parish  of  Orleans  is  com- 
posed of  Divisions  A.  B,  C,  D,  E,  each  presided  over  by  a 
judge  appointed  by  the  Governor  for  a  term  of  years.  These 
courts  hold  their  sessions,  commencing  in  October,  in  the 
court  buildings,  corner  of  Jackson  Square  and  St.  Ann  street. 

Criminal  Court. 

The  Criminal  Court  for  the  Parish  of  Orleans  consists  of 
Divisions  A  and  B,  each  presided  over  by  a  judge  appointed 
by  the  Governor  for  a  term  of  years.  The  court  holds  its  ses- 
sions in  the  Criminal  Court  building  on  Tulane  avenue  and 
Elk  Place. 

First  City  Court. 

No.  320  Exchange  Place. 

The  City  Courts  are  divided  into  three  sections  and  are  pre- 
sided over  by  three  judges  elected  by  the  people,  and  have 
jurisdiction  in  all  civil  cases  where  the  amount  in  contest  does 
not  exceed  one  hundred  dollars. 

Second  City  Court. 

No.  225  Morgan  street,  Fifth  District. 

This  court  is  presided  over  by  one  judge  elected  by  the 
people  and  has  the  same  jurisdiction  as  the  First  City  Court. 

CUSTOMHOUSE. 

On  Canal  street,  three  blocks  from  the  river.  Main  entrance  on  Canal 
street.  Open  daily,  except  Sundays,  9  a.  m.  to  4  p.  ni.  On  application  to  the 
janitor,  access  can  be  had  to  the  roof,  by  an  easy  staircase,  in  the  right-hand 
corridor,  near  the  elevator,  and  from  the  platforms  on  the  roof  a  magniflcent 
view  is  io  be  had  of  the  ^ity  an6  the  harbor. 

History. 

The  Customhouse,  which  is  the  principal  government  build- 
ing in  the  City  of  New  Orleans,  is  situated  on  the  square 
bounded  by  Canal,  Customhouse,  Decatur  and  Peters  streets. 
It  was  formerly  the  site  of  Fort  St.  Louis  when  the  city  was 
fortified  by  the  Spaniards.  This  square,  in  former  times, 
fronted  on  the  Mississippi,  but  the  constant  accretions  of  soil, 


Sights  of  the  City.  181 

called  by  the  natives  ''batture,"  has,  in  the  course  of  time, 
gradually  formed  new  ground  in  front  until  the  square  is  now 
about  four  blocks  distant  from  the  river.  The  new-made 
ground  became  the  property  of  the  city,  and  was  sold  to  pri- 
vate parties  who  have  erected  large  stores  on  the  spot,  where, 
in  former  years,  there  was  water  deep  enough  to  float  the 
largest  man-of-war  in  the  world.  For  many  years,  the  Cus- 
tomhouse was  a  small  frame  building  in  the  centre  of  the 
square,  until  1848,  the  government  commenced  the  erection  of 
the  present  edifice.  The  plan,  by  A.  T.  Wood,  of  a  large  gran- 
ite building  in  the  Egyptian  style  of  architecture,  to  cost 
$800,000,  was  adopted. 

Laying  of  the  Corner-Stone. 

The  corner-stone  was  laid  in  1847  by  Henry  Clay,  and  work 
commenced  in  the  following  year. 

Construction  op  the  Building. 

It  was  contemplated  to  have  the  business  room  of  the  cus- 
toms in  the  centre  hall,  and  the  balance  of  the  building  was  to 
be  used  as  a  general  bonded  warehouse.  To  carry  out  the  plan 
it  was  determined  to  make  the  building  very  strong  and  thor- 
oughly fire-proof.  The  walls  were  made  of  a  great  thickness. 
The  rooms  were  vaulted  and  the  floors  constructed  of  iron  and 
brick,  so  that,  perhaps,  there  is  no  building  of  its  size  in  the 
world  in  which  so  little  wood  has  been  used,  and  which  is  so 
thoroughly  fire-proof.  To  support  this  enormous  mass  of 
brick  and  stone,  great  care  was  taken  with  the  foundations, 
which  were  made  seventeen  feet  deep,  resting  on  huge  cypress 
logs.  To  allow  the  building  to  settle  evenly,  the  walls  were 
held  together  by  strong  iron  bands  placed  in  the  arches,  which 
remained  in  their  places  over  thirty  years.  Notwithstanding 
the  precautions  taken  to  secure  a  firm  foundation,  the  build- 
ing sank  as  much  as  two  feet  on  one  corner,  and  it  became 
necessary  to  abandon  the  original  plan  and  to  substitute  an 
iron  cornice  in  place  of  fhe  one  of  stone,  as  contemplated  in 
the  plan.  Work  has  continued  at  intervals  during  the  past 
thirty  years,  as  long  as  the  appropriations  held  out;  at  one 
time  it  was  under  the  superintendence  of  General,  then  Major, 
Beauregard;  and  it  will  require  several  years  yet  to  complete 
the  building. 


182  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Dimensions  of  the  Building. 

The  building,  which  is  81  feet  high,  measures  340  feet  on 
Canal  street,  by  depth  on  Decatur  street  of  297  feet,  and  on 
Peters  street  of  309  feet,  and  it  is  constructed  of  Quincy 
(Mass.)  granite. 

Total  Cost. 

The  total  cost  to  November  1st,  1884,  was  $4,212,368.50, 
and  nearly  $1,000,000  more  will  be  required  to  complete  the 
work. 

Location  of  Offices. 

On  the  ground  floor  are  located  the  Appraiser's  store,  the 
office  of  the  Inspector  of  Boilers  and  Steamboats,  and  other 
offices. 

United  States  Postoffice. 

On  the  Decatur  street  side  is  the  Postoffice,  the  corridor  of 
which  is  247  feet  long. 

Main  Entrance. 

Ascending  to  the  principal  floor  by  the  grand  white  marble 
staircase  from  the  entrance  on  Canal  street,  the  visitor  enters 
a  wide  vestibule,  with  iron  columns  supporting  large  skylights 
of  thick  glass.  Passing  through  this  vestibule  a  hall  is  reach- 
ed, which  extends  around  the  whole  building,  with  which  all 
the  offices  communicate. 

IMarble  Hall. 

In  the  centre  of  the  building,  within  this  passage,  is  the 
"Marble  Hall,"  the  large  business  room  of  the  Customs  De- 
partment. Marble  Hall  is  considered  by  all  tourists  to  be  one 
of  the  handsomest  rooms  in  the  world.  Although  not  so  large 
as  the  far-famed  St.  George's  Hall  of  Liverpool,  England,  it 
is  more  remarkable  from  the  fact  thai  nothing  but  marble  and 
iron  has  been  used  in  its  construction.  This  noble  apartment 
measures  128  feet  by  84  feet,  with  a  height  of  58  feet.  At  one 
end  are  panels  with  life-size  bas-reliefs  of  Bienville,  the 
founder  of  New  Orleans,  and  Jackson,  its  defender,  between 
whom  is  placed  the  coat-of-arms  of  Louisiana,  the  pelican 
feeding  its  young.  The  roof,  consisting  of  an  iron  frame 
painted  white  and  gold,  into  which  are  set  enormous  plates  of 


MARBLE    HALL— UNITED    STATES    CUSTOMHOUSE. 


184  New  Orleans  Guide. 

heavy  ground  glass,  with  a  blue  Grecian  border  of  elegant  de- 
sign, is  supported  by  fifteen  columns  of  pure  white  marble  41 
feet  high.  These  fluted  columns  cost  $8,000  each,  and  have 
handsomely  carved  capitals,  representing  plants  of  emblem- 
atic heads.  The  floor  is  of  white  and  black  marble,  with  pieces 
of  heavy  glass  set  in  to  give  light  to  the  rooms  below. 

The  original  plan  of  the  building  called  for  a  great  dome 
over  this  room,  but  was  altered  to  a  flat  ceiling.  The  hall, 
with  its  white  marble  columns  and  with  lofty  ceilings,  is  a 
noble  apartment  worthy  of  a  visit. 

United  States  Customs  Department. 

Around  the  hall  are  white  marble  counters,  occupied  by 
officers  of  the  Customs.  Here  vessels  are  entered  and  cleared 
from  all  known  ports  of  the  world.  Duties  are  collected  and 
all  business  relating  to  the  commerce  of  New  Orleans  has  to  be 
transacted  in  this  hall. 

United  States  Sub-Treasury  and  Courts. 

At  the  end  of  the  right-hand  corridor  is  the  Sub-Treasury 
office.  On  the  left  of  the  main  entrance  are  the  United  States 
Courts,  Marshal's  and  Clerk's  offices. 

Other  Offices. 

On  the  second  floor  of  the  building  are  the  Land  Office,  the 
Surveyor  General's  Office  and  the  Signal  Service  Station. 
When  General  Butler,  in  1862,  took  possession  of  New  Or- 
leans, he  established  his  headquarters  in  the  Customhouse,  and 
for  a  long  time  occupied  the  suite  of  rooms  on  the  Decatur 
street  side  as  an  office.  The  upper  portion  of  the  building, 
then  in  an  unfinished  state,  was  used  as  a  military  prison  for 
captured  Confederate  soldiers.  In  the  room  under  the  Sub- 
Treasury  office,  at  the  foot  of  the  dark  staircase,  Mumford 
was,  in  1862,  confined,  and,  after  being  tried  before  a  military 
commission  for  tearing  down  the  United  States  flag,  was  taken 
to  the  United  States  Mint  and  hung  on  the  spot  where  the  flag 
was  torn  down. 

View  from  the  Roof. 

On  application  to  the  janitor  access  to  the  roof  may  be  ob- 
tained.   The  stairs  of  ascent  are  of  stone  and  hung  in  the  wall 


Sights  of  the  City.  185 

unsupported.  The  panoramic  view  well  repays  the  tourist,  for 
it  is  the  best  to  be  had  of  the  crescent-shaped  harbor  and 
levee. 

River  Side. 

At  your  feet  is  the  Mississippi  River,  forming  a  huge 
crescent,  from  which  New  Orleans  derives  its  name 
of  the  "Crescent  City."  The  river  flows  to  your  left 
sweeping  past  the  Cathedral,  and  around  the  Algiers 
Point,  thence  past  the  Uniteck  States  Barracks,  dis- 
tinguished in  the  distance  by  its  flag;  thence  on- 
wards, passing  in  the  rear  of  Algiers,  a  suburb  of  the  city, 
towards  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  to  your  right,  distant  about  one 
hundred  miles.  At  the  head  of  Canal  street  are  the  St.  Louis, 
Red  River,  and  Vicksburg  packets  at  the  cotton  landing.  To 
your  left,  the  boats  from  the  sugar  districts,  the  sugar  levee, 
the  sugar  refinery  (ten  stories  high).  Sugar  Exchange,  with 
Mansard  dome,  New  York  steamships.  Cathedral  with  its 
three  spires,  the  French  Market  (a  long  low  building,  near  the 
river  bank) ,  the  United  States  Mint  (in  the  curve  of  the  river, 
with  its  tall  brick  chimney) ,  the  shipping,  the  Ursulines  Con- 
vent (a  long,  white  building,  facing  the  river),  and  the  United 
States  Barracks  (Jackson  Barracks),  in  the  far  distance. 

Canal  Street  Side. 

At  your  feet  Canal  street,  the  principal  avenue  of  the  city, 
extending  toward  the  Lake  (Pontchartrain,  six  miles  distant)  ; 
the  river,  crowded  with  shipping  from  all  parts  of  the  globe, 
curving  like  a  huge  snake  around  the  city;  the  Shot  Tower, 
with  its  many  windows;  the  heavy  Norman  Gothic  tower  of 
St.  Patrick's  Church;  the  Waterworks'  slender  iron  stand- 
pipe;  in  the  distance,  the  dome-shaped  tower  of  St.  Mary's 
Assumption  Church;  to  the  right,  and  nearer,  the  graceful 
Gothic  spire  of  the  First  Presbyterian  Church,  on  Lafay- 
ette Square;  to  the  right,  and  near  Canal  street,  the  St. 
Charles  Hotel,  a  high  red-brick  building;  in  the  rear,  the 
Cotton  Exchange,  with  its  bells  and  flagstaff ;  to  the  right,  the 
altar  dome  of  the  Jesuits'  Church,  and  far  to  the  right,  St. 
Joseph's  Church;  in  the  distance,  the  Audubon  Park. 


186  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Woods  Side. 

At  your  feet,  the  old  French  quarter,  the  tall  Maison- 
Blanche  building  and  the  Grand  Opera  House ;  to  the  right, 
the  large  bulky-looking  building  is  the  French  Opera  House. 
In  the  distance,  the  Fair  Grounds  race  stand,  and,  through 
the  opening  in  the  woods,  is  seen  Lake  Pontchartrain,  six  miles 
off,  with  its  steamers  and  vessels.  To  the  right,  the  Third 
District  of  the  city,  and  the  dome  of  the  old  Hotel  Royal. 

DISTRICTS. 

The  city  of  New  Orleans  proper  comprises  all  that  portion 
of  the  city  between  the  Levee  and  Rampart  street,  Canal  and 
Esplanade  streets,  known  to  the  old  inhabitants  as  ''la  cite/' 
and  to  this  was  added,  at  different  times,  the  various  outlying 
suburbs,  or  faubourgs,  as  they  are  locally  styled.  In  1852,  the 
city  was  redistricted,  and  later  on,  at  different  periods,  new 
districts  were  added,  so  that  the  districts  are  now  as  follows : 

First  District. 

Created  out  of  the  old  Faubourg  St.  Mary.  Bounded  on  the 
lower  line  by  Canal  street,  on  the  upper  by  Felicity  road,  and 
extending  from  the  River  to  the  Lake  in  the  rear,  comprising 
the  First,  Second  and  Third  Wards. 

Second  District. 

Created  out  of  the  Old  City  and  the  Faubourg  Treme. 
Bounded  on  the  upper  line  by  Canal  street,  on  the  lower  by 
Esplanade  street,  and  extending  from  the  River  to  the  Lake, 
comprising  the  Fourth,  Fifth  and  Sixth  Wards. 

Third  District. 

Composed  of  the  old  Faubourg  Marigny.  Bounded  on  the 
upper  line  by  Esplanade  street,  on  the  lower  by  the  limits  of 
the  city,  extending  from  the  River  to  the  Lake,  and  compris- 
ing the  Seventh,  Eighth  and  Ninth  Wards. 

Fourth  District. 

Formed  of  the  old  city  of  Lafayette.  Bounded  on  the  lower 
line  by  Felicity  road,  on  the  upper  by  Toledano  street,  extend- 


Sights  of  the  City.  187 

ing  from  the  River  to  near  the  New  Canal,  and  comprising  the 
Tenth  and  Eleventh  Wards. 

Fifth  District. 

Formerly  the  town  of  Algiers,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi River,  extending  from  the  lower  line  of  Jefferson 
Parish  to  the  upper  line  of  the  Parish  of  Plaquemines,  fifteen 
miles  down  the  river,  comprising  the  Fifteenth  Ward. 

Sixth  District. 

Composed  of  the  Faubourgs  Delachaise,  Bouligny  and  sev- 
eral others,  the  lower  line  being  Toledano  street,  the  upper 
boundary  being  Lower  Line  street,  and  extending  from  the 
River  to  the  New  Canal,  comprising  the  Twelfth,  Thirteenth 
and  Fourteenth  Wards. 

Seventh  District. 

Formerly  the  city  of  Carrollton.  Extending  from  Lower 
Line  street  to  the  upper  limits  of  the  city,  and  from  the  River 
to  the  Lake  and  New  Canal,  comprising  the  Sixteenth  and 
Seventeenth  Wards. 


FAIR  GROUNDS. 

Take  Esplanade  cars  to  Esplanade  street  gate.     Admission  free  when  races 
are  not  running. 

The  Fair  Grounds,  formerly  called  the  Gentilly  (a  corrup- 
tion of  the  name  Chantilly)  Race  Course,  is  a  large  tract  of 
land  situated  on  the  Gentilly  Ridge.  At  various  times  State 
Fairs  have  been  held  on  the  spot,  and  large  buildings  were 
erected  for  exhibits.  The  gardens  and  greenhouses  have  an 
interesting  collection  of  tropical  plants.  At  present  the 
grounds  are  used  by  the  Crescent  City  Jockey  Club  as  a  race 
track  for  100  days  of  racing,  commencing  in  November. 


FERRIES. 

See  Directions  for  Tourists. 


188 


New  Orleans  Guide. 


FIRE  DEPARTMENT. 

The  extinguishing  of  fires  is  under  the  charge  of  a  paid  fire 
department.  The  fire  brigade  is  well  organized,  and  often  (a 
great  part  of  the  city  is  built  of  wood)  has  to  fight  extensive 
and  fierce  fires.  The  city  maintains  the  fire  alarm  system  and 
the  alarm  of  fire  is  struck  on  several  church  and  city  bells.  At 
different  corners,  throughout  the  city,  are  placed  automatic 
fire  alarm  boxes,  connected  by  electricity  with  the  central  sta- 
tion at  the  City  Hall.  When  an  alarm  is  sent  to  the  central 
station  from  a  box,  by  simply  turning  the  crank  inside,  the 
officer  on  duty  immediately  sounds  the  number  of  the  box  on 
the  bells.  For  instance,  if  the  alarm  245  is  to  be  sounded,  the 
bells  sound  two  taps  in  succession,  then  a  pause  of  five  seconds, 
and  four  taps  in  succession,  then  another  pause  of  five  seconds, 
and  five  taps  in  succession.  Fifteen  taps  mean  a  general  alarm 
and  twenty  taps  will  concentrate  the  whole  department  to  the 
box  from  which  the  alarm  was  sounded.  One  tap  signifies  that 
the  fire  is  out. 

Fire  Alarm. 

Instructions  to  Watchmoi  and  Keyholders. — All  the  boxes 
are  automatic.  To  give  an  alarm  pull  down  the  hook  as  far  as 
it  will  go,  and  let  it  go.  After  the  box  stops  working,  if  the 
bells  do  not  respond,  pull  down  the  hook  again.  If  you  still 
hear  no  bells  go  immediately  to  the  next  nearest  box. 

First,  Second,  Third,  Fourth,  Sixth  and  Seventh 
Municipal  Districts. 


3  Customhouse-Front. 

5  Canal-Decatur. 

6  Customhouse-Royal. 

7  Bienville-Decatur. 

8  St.     Louis-Royal. 

12  Conti-Chartres. 

13  Toulouse-Decatur. 

14  Chartres-St.    Ann. 
1.5  St.  Philip-Decatur. 

16  Decatur-Hospital. 

17  Dumaine-Bourbon. 

18  Dauphine-Hospital. 

19  Royal-Ursulines. 

21  Bienville-Dauphine. 

23  St.    Louis-Ramparr. 

24  Canal-Rampart. 

25  Canal-Tchoupitoulas. 

26  Canal-Camp. 

27  Natchez-Tchoupitoulas. 

28  Poydras-South    Peters. 

31  Poydras-Magazine. 

32  Gravier-Magazine. 
34  Poydras-Camp. 


35  Perdido,   near   St.   Charles. 

36  St.    Charles-Gravier. 

37  Common-Carondelet. 

38  Caual-Baronne. 

41  Union-Dryades. 

42  Poydras-Rampart. 

43  Girod.  bet.  South  Rampart  and 

Dryades. 

45  Girod-Magazine. 

46  Lafayette-Delta. 

47  Julia-Water. 

48  Julia,  bet.  Commerce  and 

Tchoupitoulas. 

51  St.  Joseph-South  Peters. 

52  St.    Joseph-Camp. 

53  Julia-St.  Charles. 

54  Magazine,  near  Poeyfarre. 

56  Calliope-South    Peters. 

57  Calliope-Annunciation. 

58  Erato-Constance. 

61  Calliope-Camp. 

62  Calliope-Carondelet. 

63  St.  Charles-Erato. 


Sights  of  the  City. 


IS'A 


64 
65 
67 

68 

71 

72 

73 

74 

75 

76 

78 

81 

82 

83 

84 

85 

86 

87 

91 

92 

93 

94 

95 

96 

97 

98 

121 

123 

124 

125 

126 

127 

128 

131 

132 

134 

135 

136 

137 

138 

142 

143 

145 

146 

147 

148 

152 

153 

154 

156 

157 

158 

162 

163 

164 

165 

167 

168 

171 

172 

173 

174 

175 

176 

182 

192 

193 

194 

195 

213 

214 


Howard   Ave.-S.   Rampart. 

215 

Calliope-Preret. 

216 

Julia-Liberty. 

217 

Lafayette-S.  Robertson. 

218 

Tulane  Ave.-S.  Rampart. 

231 

Tulane     Ave.-Liberty. 

234 

Tulane   Ave.-Claiborne. 

235 

Poydras-Claiborne. 

236 

Poydras-Freret. 

237 

Lafayette-Miro. 

238 

Palmyra,  bet.  Prieur  and  Roman. 

241 

Tulane   Ave.-Dupre 

243 

Broad-Palmyra. 

245 

Tulane   Ave.-Tonti. 

246 

Erato-Magnolia. 

247 

Magnolia,  bet.  Clio  and  Calliope. 

251 

Erato-Franklin. 

253 

Terpsichore-Franklin. 

254 

Melpomene-Dryades. 

256 

Head    of    Thalia. 

257 

Hunter-Tchoupitoulas. 

261 

Henderson-B^'ront. 

263 

Tehoupitoulas-Orange. 

264 

Race-Annunciation. 

265 

Race-Magazine. 

271 

Melpomene-Annunciation. 

273 

Religious-Market. 

274 

Melpomene-Camp. 

275 

St.    James-South    Peters. 

281 

Felicity-Chippewa. 

283 

Felicity,    near   Orange. 

284 

St.    Mary-Tchoupitoulas. 

293 

St.   Andrew-Fulton. 

312 

Terpsichore-Carondelet. 

314 

St.  Andrew-Magazine. 

315 

St.    Charles-Felicity. 

316 

St.  Andrew-Dryades. 

317 

St.    Andrew-Magnolia. 

318 

Jackson-Rousseau. 

321 

Jackson-Laurel. 

324 

Jackson-Coliseum. 

325 

Annunciation-Soraparu. 

326 

Tchoupitoulas-Soraparu . 

327 

Jackson-Carondelet. 

328 

Jackson -Liberty. 

341 

First-Constance. 

342 

First-St.    Charles. 

.345 

First-Howard. 

346 

Dryades-Second. 

347 

Second-Chestnut. 

351 

Third-Tchoupitoulas. 

352 

Fourth-Laurel. 

354 

Fourth-Pry  tania . 

356 

Fourth-Dr'yades. 

361 

Washington-Chippewa. 

362 

Washington-Camp. 

364 

Washington-Magnolia . 

365 

Sixth-South  Rampart. 

371 

Pleasant-Annunciation. 

372 

Seventh-St.   Thomas. 

374 

Ninth-Magazine. 

381 

Harmonv-Tchoupitoulas. 

382 

Eighth-Chestnut. 

391 

Harmony-Pry  tania. 

392 

Harmony,  corner  Carondelol. 

412 

Couri-Ba?in. 

413 

Canal-Marais. 

415 

St.  Claude-St.   Peter. 

416 

Toulouse-Liberty. 

417 

Customhouse-Robertson. 

418 

St.   Louis-Villere. 

421 

St.  Louis-Claiborne. 

St.   Louis-Prieur. 

Bienville-Derbigny. 

Bienville- Johnson. 

Canal-Rocheblave. 

Canal-Dupre. 

Conti-Broad. 

Canal-Genois. 

Canal-Alexander. 

Bienville-Hagan  Ave. 

Customhouse-Carrollton    Ave 

Alexander-Meta«rie  Koad. 

Esplanade-North   Rampart. 

Toulouse-Burgundy. 

St.   Peter-Claiborne. 

Dumaine,  near  St.  Claude. 

Ursulines-Liberty. 

Esplanade-Liberry. 

Bayou   Road-Claiborne. 

Ursulines-Prieur. 

Ursulines-Broad. 

Bayou    Road-Galvez. 

St.    Ann-Miro. 

Dumaine-White. 

Esplanade-Dupre. 

Esplanade-Bayou  Bridge. 

Dumaine-Hagan  Ave. 

Esplanade-Bourbon. 

Touro-Royal. 

Bourbon-North  Kampart. 

Elysian  Fields-St.  Claude. 

Touro-Villere. 

Annette-Marais. 

St.    Bernard-Claiborne. 

Claiborne-St.   Anthony. 

Claiborne-Elysian    Fields. 

Frenchmen-Grant. 
Frenchmen-Broad. 
Columbus-St.  Claude. 
Columbus-Roman. 

Laharpe-Grand  Route  St.  Joliti 

Lapeyroiise-Galvez. 

Bayou    Road-Dorgenois. 

Entrance  to  Fair  Grounds. 

Marigny-North    Peters. 

Mandeville-Chartres. 

Lafayette  Ave.-Chartres. 

Lafayette   Ave.-Lrquhart. 

St.   Roch    Ave.-N.   Villere. 

Mandeville-Marais. 

Spain-Rampart, 

Burgundy-Marigny. 

Press-North    Peters. 

Clouet-Royal. 

Louisa-Chartres. 

Dauphine-Montegut. 

Dauphine-Port. 

St.   Ferdinand-St.   Claude. 

Louisa-Marais. 

St.    Claude-Congress. 

Elmira-Burgundy. 

Louisa-Burgundy. 

Dauphine-Independence. 

Dauphine-Mazant. 

Chartres-Mazant. 

Poland-Rampart. 

Jordan    Ave.-Dauphine. 

Elizardi-Dauphine. 

Flood-North    Rampart. 

Flood-Levee. 

Delery-North   Peters. 


190 


New  Orleans  Guide. 


423  Hancock-Dauphine.  ij31 

426  La.  Ave.-Tchoupitoulas.  532 

427  La.  Ave. -Magazine.  534 

428  La.   Ave.-Prytania.  536 

431  La.  Ave. -South  Rampart.  541 

432  Baronne-Constantinople.  542 

435  Amelia-St.   Charles  Ave.  543 

436  Camp-Foucher.  561 

437  Peniston-Coliseum. 

451  Aline-Laurel.  562 

452  Austerlitz-Magazine.  563 

453  Annunciation-Amelia.  571 

461  Water-Peniston.  572 

462  Constantinople-Tchoupitoulas.  612 

463  Annunciation-Napoleon    Ave. 

471  Berlin-Magazine-.  613 

472  Marengo-Prytania.  614 

473  Milan-Saratoga.  615 

481  Napoleon   Ave.-Freret.  617 

482  Pitt-Napoleon  Ave.  631 

491  Coliseum-Jena.  632 

492  Cadiz-Tchoupitoulas.       •  634 

512  Magazine-Valence.  635 

513  Carondelet-Valence.  641 

514  Valence-Saratoga.  642 

516  Upperline-Prytanla.  643 

517  Laurel-Lyon.  651 

518  Soniat-Tchoupitoulas.  652 
521  Soniat-Magazine.  653 

523  St.  Charles-Durossat.  712 

524  Peters    Ave.-S.    Rampart.  713 

526  Peters    Ave.-Prytania.  714 

527  Valmont-Chestnut.  715 


Valmont-Laurel. 

Tchoupitoulas-Octavia. 

Laurel-Nashville    Ave. 

Magazine-Joseph. 

Arabella-Perrier. 

Nashville    Ave.-St.    Charles. 

Palmer   Ave.-Freret. 

St.  Charles  Ave.,  bet.   Henry 

Clay  and  Calhoun. 
Hurst-Calhoun. 
State-Pitt. 
State-Camp. 
Henry    Clay-Chestnut. 
Laurel,    bet.   Henry   Clay   Ave. 

and    Calhoun. 
Tchoupitoulas-Webster. 
Magazine-Walnut. 
Broadway-St.    Charles. 
Broadway-Esther. 
Cherokee-Ann. 
Burdette-Macarty. 
Cherokee-Hampson. 
Short-St.    Charles. 
Burdette-Zimple. 
Hampson-Dublin. 
Carrollton    Ave.-Burthe. 
Fern-Cohn. 
Leonidas-Burthe. 
Cambronne-Oak. 
Dublin-Poplar. 
Jeannette-Joliet. 
Eagle-Poplar. 
M.  V.  R.  R. -Carroll ton  Ave. 


Fifth  Municipal  District— Algiers. 


Eighth  Precinct  Police  Station.  16 

Patterson-Ver^e^.  17 

Patterson-Belleville.  18 

Vallette-Pelican  Ave.  21 

Elmira    Ave.,    near    Eliza.  23 

Pelican-Atlantic     Aves.  24 

Patterson,   near  Thayer   Ave.  2;) 

Verret   Ave.-Evallne.  31 
Verret-Alix. 


Vallette-Evaline 
Pelican  Ave.-Seguin. 
Pacific-Opelousas  Aves. 
Belleville-Slidell  Ave. 
Powder-Al'x. 
Opelousas    Ave.-Teche. 
Verret   Ave. -Homer. 
Brooklyn-Diana. 


9—12 

9-13 

9—14 

9—17 
9—21 
9—23 

9—24 

9—25 

9—27 
9—28 
10—1 

10—2 

10—3 


Automatic  Alarm  Boxes. 


St.    Paul's   Church,   Camp   and  10 — 4 

Gaiennie. 

Southern   Tobacco  Co.,   400   to  1(» — o 

404    Poydras. 

Louisiana     Class    and     Mirror  10 — 6 

Works.  10—7 
Kohlman   Cotton  Mill. 

N.  E.  R.  R.,  Press  and  Front.  10 — 8 

N.    E.    R.    R.,    Dauphine    and  1<» — 9 

Press. 

Depot   and   Snecs,    liampart  lOlJ 

and    Press.  ^    ^  ,^ 

Preston    &    Stauffer,    410    S.  101.^ 

Front.  1014 
C.  C.  Rice  Mills,  530  Toulouse. 

A.   Kory's   Sons,   210   Decatur.  1015 
National    Automatic  Fire  Alarm 

Co.,   618   Gravier.  1016 
American   Tobacco   Co.,   Julia 

and  Magazine.  1017 
E.   J.   Hart  &  Co.,   535  Tchou- 

pitoulas.  1018 


IT.    T.    Cottam.    50(5    Tchou- 

pitoulas. 
Schmidt     &     Ziegler,     428     S. 

I'eters. 
L.  Krower  &  Co.,  536  Canal. 
Orleans  Rice  Milling  Co.,  730- 

73(5  Magazine. 
L.    N.    Brunswig,    223    Tchou- 
Ily.  Stern  &  Co.,  122  Chartres. 
pitoulas. 
S.    E.   Worms   &   Co.,    Ltd.,   522 

Canal. 
A.  Lehman  &  Co.,  519-521  Canal. 
Toppino,   Seidenbach  &   Larose, 

131  Chartres. 
New    Orleans    News    Co.,     214 

Decatur. 
Woodward.   AVight   &   Co..    Ltd., 

406   Canal. 
A.  Schwartz  &  Son,  123  Caron- 

delet. 
239  Canal. 


Sights  of  the  City. 


191 


1019     Morris   McGraw   Co.,   Ltd.,   401  1058 
Tchoupitoulas. 

1021  417  Camp.  1059 

1022  B.    J.   Wolf   &   J5ons.    518    Bien-  1061 

ville.  1062 

1023  D.     Mercier's     Sons.    Dauphine  1068 

and    Bienville. 

1024  Godchaux,    Canal   street.  1064 

1025  Fleichmann,    516    Magazine.  1065 

1026  Dreyfous   Co.,    Ltd.,   717   Canal. 

1027  Williams-Richardson    Co.,    Ltd.,  r066 

119    Magazine. 

1028  W.   T.  Tebault,   217   Royal.  1067 

1029  S.  &  J.  Katz,  417  Camp.  1068 

1031  T.  Fitzwilliam  &  Co..  324  Camp. 

1032  American    Brewery.    Conti    and  1069 

Bourbon.              '  1071 

1033  519   Canal. 

1034  Keiffer   Bros..   427    Camp. 

1035  205   Magazine.  1<>73 

1036  L.   Fellman   &  Co.,   804   Canal.  1074 

1037  G.  Mayer  Co.,  823  (^anal.  1075 

1038  136  St.  Charles.  1076 

1039  V.   Schwan  &  Co.,    Ltd..   216   S.  1077 

Peters.  1078 

1041  E.  Feibleman  Sons  &  Co..  418  1079 

S.    Peters.  1081 

1042  Slmonds    Mfg.     Co..     Ltd..     215  1082 

Magazine.  1083 

1043  ^Magazine   and   Gravier. 

1.'044     512   Canal.  1'085 

1045  Wolf.  Marks  &  Co.,  516  Canal. 

1046  Montgomery   &    Parker.    420  1086 

I'oydras.  1087 

1047  Jas.  J.  Reiss  &  Co..  Ltd..  417  1088 

Decatur.  ^^^ 

1048  Whitney  &   Sloo   Co..   Ltd..    110  1089 

North    Peters. 

1049  J.  C.  Morris  &  Co..  Tchoupitou-  1091 

las  and   Natchez. 

1051  Williams-Richardson    Co..    Ltd..  1092 

508-51'0  Canal. 

1052  L.  Goldstein  &  Sons.  517  Canal.  1093 

1053  Grand  Opera  House,  919  Canal.  1095 

1054  Henry  Lochte  ife  Co.,  400  Tchou-  1096 

pitbJas.  1097 

1055  C.    H.    Lawrence   &    Co..    520 

Tchoupitoulas.  1098 

1056  201   Magazine  street. 

1057  L.  P.  Rice  &  Co..  514  Common.  1099 


Horter  &  Tertrou  Co.,  522  Com- 
mon. 

B.  Rosenberg.  526  Canal. 
Levy.   Loeb  &  Co..   528  Canal. 
Landauer  &  Meyer,  534  Canal. 
Phoenix   Furniture   Co.,    216 

Camp. 
Leon    Godchaux,    525    Canal. 
IMcard,  Kaiser  &  Co.,  208  Char- 

tres. 
Jackson   Brewery,    Decatur   and 

Jefferson. 

C.  Lazard.   604  Canal. 
Langles   Factory.    South   Peters 

and    Delord. 

French    Opera    House.    Bourbon 

Shwartz  Bros.,   100-106  Mag- 
azine, 
and   Toulouse. 

Hotel  Grunewald,  121  Baronne. 

Boston  Shoe  Store.  711  Canal. 

Times-Democrat.  320  Camp. 

Marx  Bros..  607  Canal. 

Philip  Werlein,   614-616  Canal. 

Abe  Meyer,  526  Common. 

C.   H.  Miller,  533  S.  Peters. 

Jos.  Levy  &  Bros.,  524  Common. 

E.  Offner,  908  Canal. 

Shwartz,    Isaac   &   Co..   901-919 
Canal. 

Dittman's  Warenouse,   840 
Fulton. 

Orleans  Mfg.  Co.,  642  S.  Peters. 

Orleans  Mfg.  Co.,  700  S.  Peters. 

The  Smith  Bros.  Co.,  Ltd.,  510 
Poydras. 

L.    (Jraham    &    Son,    Ltd.,    207 
Baronne. 

Heidenheim,    Levy    &    Co.,    218 
Chartres. 

L.   Grunewald   Co.,   Ltd.,   735 
Canal. 

B.  Cohn  &  Co..  727  Canal. 

Leopold  Levy,  723  Canal. 

J.  II.  Menge,  207  Tchoupitoulas. 

N.    Burke   Co.,    Ltd.,    409-417 
Magazine. 

H.  R.  Gogreve,  534  Tchoupi- 
toulas. 

Finlay,    Dicks  &   Co..   114   Mag- 
azine. 


Patrol  Boxes. 


.1 — 2     Columbia  Cotton  Press,  Tchou-     11 — 9 

pitoulas-Terpsichore. 
.1—3     Cooper's  Cotton   Press,   S.   Pe-      1112 
ters   and   Thalia. 
-4     Crescent    City    Cotton    Press,      1113 

Tchoupitoulas  and  Race. 
-5     Commercial   Cotton   Press,    St.      1114 
Thomas  and  Richard. 
1 — 6     Commercial   Cotton   Press   No.      1115 

3,  Tchoupitoulas    and    St. 

James.  1116 

-7     Commercial   Cotton   Press  No. 

4,  Annunciation  and  Richard.      1117 
-8     Fire-Proof  Cotton  Press,  Robin 

and    Front. 


Factor's  Cotton  Press,  Tchou- 

•   pitoulas-Robin. 

International   Cotton   Press, 
Gaiennie-S.    Peters. 

Louisiana    Cotton    Press,    St. 
Thomas-Terpsichore. 

Orleans    Cotton    Press,    Terpsi- 
chore-S.    Peters. 

Planters'  Cotton  Press,  Richard- 
Annunciation. 

Shippers'    Cotton    Press,    Hen- 
derson-S.  Peters. 

Terrell's   Cotton   Press,   Orange 
and  .Chippewa. 


192 


New  Orleans  Guide. 


1118  Terrell's    CottOn    Press    No.    2,  1149 

Orange-St.   Thomas.  1151 

1119  Union     Cotton     Press,     Terpsi- 

chore-S.  Peters.  1152 

1121  Virginia  Cotton  Press,  Richard - 

Tchoupitoulas.  1154 

1122  Centennial    Cotton    I'ress,    H. 

Peters  and  Celeste.  1155 

1123  Kentucky  Cotton  Press,  Tchou-  1156 

pitoulas-Terpsicnore. 

1124  Henderson's   Sugar  Refinery,    S.  1157 

xeters- Julia.  '  1158 

1125  Mississippi    Warehouse,    Fulton  1161 

and    Julia.  1162 

112(5      Whitney    Iron    Works,    849  1163 

Tchoupitoulas.  1164 

1127  Whitney   Iron  Foundry,   849  1165 

Tchoupitoulas.  1167 

1128  Amelia   Cotton    Press,   Tchoupi-  1168 

toulas-St.    Mary.  1169 

1131  Branch    State   National    Bank.  1171 

Conti  and  Royal.  1172 

1132  American    Sugar    Refining    Co.,  1173 

Customhouse  and  Front.  1174 

1133  American    Sugar    Refining    Co.,  1175 

St.    Louis-Decatur.  1176 

1134  Canal  Bank,  Camp  and  Gravier.  1177 

1136  Citizens'    Bank,    620   Gravier.  1178 

1137  620   Canal.  1179 

1138  Germania  Insurance  Co..  311  1181 

amp.  1182 

1139  Hibernia  National   Bank,   121  1183 

Camp.  1184 

1141  Gulf  Bag  Co..  Julia  and  Tchou-  1185 

pitoulas.  1186 

1142  Boland  &  Gschwind,   St.  Thomas  1187 

and  Melpomene.  1188 

1143  Louisiana    National    Bank,    616 

Common.  1189 

1144  Metropolitan   Bank,   412   Camp.  1191 

1145  624    Canal.  1192 

1146  New  Orleans  National   Bank,  1193 

Camp  and  Common.  1194 
1148      L.  &  N.  R.  R.,  Calliope  and 

Levee.  1195 


L.  &  N.  R.  R.,  Girod-Levee. 
Union   National   Bank,    Gravier 

and   Carondelet. 
Whitney    National     Bank,     615 

Gravier. 
Chess,  Checkers  and  Whist  Club, 

Canal- Baronne. 
Boston  Club,  824  Canal. 
Young   Men's    Gymnastic    Club, 

224  N.  Rampart. 
224   Baronne. 
St.  Joseph  and  Magazine. 
North   and   Camp. 
Magazine  and  Poydras. 
Camp  and  Delord. 
St.  Joseph  Warehouse. 
Natchez-Tchoupitoulas. 
Canal  and  Tchoupitoulas. 
108     Magazine. 
Bienville   and   Front. 
Chartres    and    Bienville. 
Conti   and   Roya?. 
635   Canal. 
333  North  Rampart. 
Canal  and  Burgundy. 
124  Carondelet. 
121    Camp. 
124  St.  Charles. 
Canal    and    Norm    r^asTU. 
315  Magazine. 

Commercial  alley-St.  Charles. 
521    I'ovdras. 
5'08  Tchoupitoulas. 
628   South  Peters. 
Carondelet   and   Union. 
423   St.   Charles. 
Standard   Warehouse,    Fulton 

and  Delord. 
D.   H.   Holmes,   819   Canal. 
Camp  and   Common. 
I.  C.  R.  R.  Passenger  Depot. 
422    South    Peters. 
Johnson  Iron  Works,  Julia  and 

Delta. 
St.   Charles  and  Union. 


WHARVES   AND   LANDINGS. 

First  District  Posts  (Ascending  the  River) 


12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 


Opposite  Canal  street.  19 

Opposite  Gravier  street.  20 
Bet.  Poydras  and  Lafayette  streets. 

Bet.  Poydras  and  Lafayette  streets.  21 

Bet.  Lafayette  and  Girod  streets.  22 

Opposite  Girod  street.  23 

Bet.  Girod  and  Julia  streets.  24 

Bet.  Girod  and  Julia  streets.  25 

Bet.  Julia  and  St.  Joseph  streets.  26 

Bet.  St.- Joseph  and  Calliope  streets.  27 

Opposite    Calliope    street.  28 

Opposite  Gaiennie  street.  29 

Opposite   Erato   street.  30 

Bet.   Erato  and  Thalia  streets.  31 

Bet.  Thalia  and  Terpsichore  streets.  32 

Bet.  Thalia  and  Terpsichore  streets.  33 

Bet.  Thalia  and  Terpsichore  streets.  34 


Bet.  Thalia  and  Terpsichore  streets. 
Bet.  Terpsichore  and  Henderson 

streets. 
Opposite    Henderson    street. 
Bet.  Henderson  and  Robin  streets. 
Bet.  Henderson    and  Robin  streets. 
Opposite  Robin  street. 
Bet.  Race  and  Robin  streets. 
Bet.  Race  and  Orange  streets. 
Opposite   Orange   street. 
Bet.  Orange  and  Richard  streets. 
Bet.  Richard  and  Market  streets. 
Opposite   Market   street. 
Bet.  Market  and  St.  James  streets. 
Bet.  St.  James  and  Celeste  streets. 
Bet.  St.  James  and  Celeste  streets. 
Bet.  Celeste  and  Nuns  street. 


Sights  of  the  City. 


193 


Second  District  (Descending  the  River) 


23 

24 
25 
2fi 

27 


Bet.    Grossman    and   Customhouse  10 

streets.  11 

Bet.    Customhouse    and    Bienville  12 

streets.  13 

Bet.    Customhouse    and    Bienville  14 

streets.  15 

Bet.    Bienville   and   Conti   streets.  lf> 

Bet.    Bienville    and    Conti    streets  17 

Bet.   Conti   and   St.   Louis  streets.  18 

Bet.  Conti  and   St.   Louis  streets.  19 

Bet.  St.  Louis   and  Toulouse  strtf ts.  20 

Bet  Toulouse    and  Jefferson  streets. 


Bet.  Jefferson    and  St.  Peter  streets. 
Bet.  St.  Peter  and  St.  Ann  streets. 
Bet.  St.  Ann    and  Madison  streets. 
Bet.  Madison  and  Dumaine  streets. 
Bet.  Dumaine   and  St.  Philip  streets. 
P.et.  St.  Philip  and  Ursulines  streets. 
Opnosite  LTrsulines  street. 
Bet.   Ursulines  and  Hospital  streets. 
Bet.  Hospital  and  Barracks  streets. 
Opposite   ^arracks   street. 
Opposite  Esplanade  avenue 


Third  District   (Descending  the  River) 


Bet.  Marigny  and  Mandeville  28 

streets.  20 

Opposite   Mandeville   street.  80 
Bet.  Mandeville  and  Spain  streets.    31 

Opposite   Lafayette   avenue.  32 

Bet.  Lafayette  avenue  and  Port  33 
street. 


Bet.  Port  and  Monte^ut   streets. 

Bet.  Port  and  Montegut   streets. 

Bet.  Port  and  Montegut  streets. 

Bet.  Port  and  ^Nlontesjut  streets. 

Bet.  Montegut  and  Clouet  streets. 

Bet.  ^lontegut  and  Clouet  streets. 


Fourth  District  (Ascending  the  River). 


35  Bet.   Nuns  and   St.  Mary   streets.  48 

36  Bet.  Nuns  and  St.  ATary  streets.  49 

37  Bet.  Nuns  and  St.  Mary  streets.  .'"lO 

38  Bet.    St.   Mary   and   St.   Andrew  51 

streets.  5'.' 

39  Bet.    St.    Mary   and    St.    Andrew  53 

streets.  54 

40  Bet.  St.  Andrew  and  Adele  streets.  55 

41  Bet.  Adele  and  Josenhine  streets.  5fi 
4"_'  Bet.  Josephine  and  Jackson  streets.  57 

43  Bet.  Josephine  ard  Jackson  streets.  58 

44  Bet.  Jackson  and  Philip  streets.  59 
4  5  Opnosite  Philin  street.  fiO 
AC  Bet.  I'hilip  and  Sorrtparu  streets.  01 
47  Bet.  Soraparu  and  First  streets.  62 


Opposite   First   street. 
Bet.  First  and  Second  streets. 
Bet.  Second  and  Third  streets. 
Bet.  Third  and  Fourth  streets. 
Bet.  Fourth  and  Washington  ave. 
OpDOsite    Washington    avp. 
Bet.  Washington  and  Sixth  street. 
Bet.  Washington  and  Sixth  street. 
Bet.    Sixth   and   Seventh   streets. 
Bet.  Seventh  and  Eighth  streets. 
Bet.   Eighth  and  Ninth   streets. 
Bet.  Ninth  and  Harmony'  streets. 
Bet.  Ninth   and  Harmony  streets. 
Bet.  Harmony  and  Pleasant  streets 
Bet.  Pleasant  and  Toledano  streets 


GEODETIC  STONE. 


Lafayette   Square,   five  squares  from   Canal   street.' 

The  United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  has  erected  a 
square  stone  near  the  centre  of  Lafayette  Square,  which  marks 
exactly  latitude  29°  51'  5"  and  lonsritude  90°  04'  09"  west. 
This  stone  is  therefore  three  minutes,  equal  to  5,542  metres,  or 
about  3i/>  miles,  north  of  the  Great  Pyramid  of  E^ypt,  the 
two  points  bein^  separated  by  120°  4'  of  lonoritude,  and  about 
11,714  kilometres,  or  7,279  statute  miles. 


194  New  Orleans  Guide. 

HEALTH. 

City  Board  of  Health,  No.  818  Common  street.     OflSce  hours  9  a.  in.  to  3 
p.  m. 

New  Orleans  is  erroneously  supposed  to  be  the  most  un- 
healthy city  of  the  United  States.  It  is  true  that  at  times,  as 
in  many  other  large  cities,  epidemics  have  broken  out,  but  the 
average  general  health  of  the  city  is  excellent.  The  mortality 
among  the  whites  averages  15  in  one  thousand  inhabitants,  and 
notwithstanding  the  population  of  the  city  being  one-third 
colored,  who  disregard  sanitary  precautions,  and  the  Charity 
Hospital  being  the  recipient  of  the  sick  of  several  adjoining 
States,  the  tables  of  mortality  show  only  an  annual  death  rate 
of  21  per  one  thousand.  The  drainage  system  is  not  yet  as  per- 
fect as  it  should  be,  for  the  level  of  the  city  is  low,  and  open 
surface  drainage  is  in  use.  As  New  Orleans  is  a  large  port,  and 
as  vessels  arrive  from  all  parts  of  the  globe,  there  is  necessarily 
an  immense  floating  population  that  often  imports  with  it  dis- 
eases, besides  which,  the  mildness  of  the  climate  attracts  many 
incurable  invalids;  consequently  this  place  is  regarded,  with- 
out cause,  as  a  sickly  port.  Situated  near  the  sea.  New  Or- 
leans enjoys  the  benefit  of  the  constant  soft  and  salty  breezes 
of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico ;  the  climate  is  mild  and  temperate,  so 
that  smallpox,  scarlet  fever,  and  other  malignant  fevers,  which 
rage  in  Northern  and  Western  cities,  seldom  prevail,  and  never 
reach  an  epidemic  form.  Yellow  fever  epidemics  have  occur- 
red at  rare  intervals,  but  this  disease  has  now  entirely  disap- 
peared. Yellow  fever  may  now  be  considered  as  stamped  out, 
and  will  not  appear  again  unless  it  is  imported.  The  health  of 
the  State  and  port  is  vigilantly  guarded  by  a  State  Board 
of  Health,  under  whose  management  three  efficient  quar- 
antine stations  are  maintained  at  a  distance  from  the  city, 
with  great  care  and  expense.  All  vessels  and  cargoes  arriving 
are  inspected  at  these  stations,  are  thoroughly  fumigated  and 
disinfected  with  chemicals.  If  the  vessels  are  found  to  be  foul 
they  are  detained  at  the  quarantine  station  and  thoroughly 
isolated.  Heavy  fines  and  penalties  are  imposed  for  violations 
of  quarantine  laws,  and  the  most  summary  proceedings  taken 
to  enforce  them  without  the  intervention  of  courts  of  law.  Be- 
sides these  precautions,  the  City  Board  of  Health  has  sanitary 
inspectors  (physicians)  stationed  in  each  district  of  the  city, 
with  a  large  corps  of  sanitary  officers,  to  watch  over  the  health 
of  each  district,  to  vaccinate  persons,  disinfect  houses,  and 


Sights  of  the  City.  195 

abate  nuisances.  The  City  Board  of  Health  is  also  the  registry 
office  for  births,  deaths  and  marriages  of  the  Parish  of  Or- 
leans. 

HISTORICAL  SOCIETY. 

The  Louisiana  Historical  Society,  an  old  organization  for 
the  preservation  of  history,  meets  monthly  at  the  Tulane  Hall. 
The  meetings  are  public  and  very  interesting,  as  many  old 
matters  relating  to  the  early  history  of  Louisiana  are  devel- 
oped in  papers  read  Kefore  the  society. 


HENNEN   BUILDING  OBSERVATORY. 

Henuen  Building,  corner  of  Carondelet  and  Common  streets.  Elevator  to 
eleventh  floor.  Admission  to  Observatory,  3  5  cents,  from  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m., 
Sundays  included. 

The  Hennen  Building  is  162  feet  high,  and  from  its  observ- 
atory roof  the  finest  view  of  the  city  and  river  is  to  be  ob- 
tained, and  all  strangers  should  avail  themselves  of  this  high 
point  of  observation  to  get  a  correct  idea  of  the  city  and  its 
extent. 

Front  View. 

The  Mississippi  River,  with  its  curves  and  crescent-shape 
bend,  which  gives  to  New  Orleans  the  name  of  the  ''Crescent 
City."  In  front,  the  red-brick  building  St.  Charles  Hotel. 
The  high  buildings  on  the  left  are  the  sugar  refineries,  which 
overshadow  the  United  States  Customhouse.  Algiers  (Fif- 
teenth Ward)  is  located  on  the  point  opposite.  To  the  right, 
the  City  Hall :  the  First  Presbyterian  Church,  with  its  slender 
finger-like  tower;  the  heavy  St.  Patrick's  Church  tower;  the 
tall  Shot  Tower,  and  in  the  foreground  the  Masonic  Temple. 

N  Eight  Side  Yiew. 

The  river  bends  around  towards  Carrollton,  six  miles  dis- 
tant, with  the  grain  elevator  of  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad 
in  the  distance  and  Audubon  Park.  In  front  of  these  the 
Church  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  and  to  the  rear  the  masts  of 
the  vessels  in  the  New  Canal.  At  your  feet,  Carondelet  street, 
with  the  Cotton  Exchange,  Lee  Column  in  the  distance,  and 
the  square  tower  of  St.  Paul's  Church. 


196  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Left  Side  View. 
Lake  Pontchartrain  in  the  distance;  the  Race  Course  (Fair 
Grounds),  with  its  red  roofs;  Bourbon  street  in  front,  with 
the  French  Opera  House;  the  old  Hotel  Royal,  with  its  green 
copper  dome.  Back  of  it  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Louis  and  the 
French  Market,  at  the  head  of  the  river  bend.  At  your  feet. 
Canal  street,  the  yellow  dome  of  the  Jesuits'  Church,  Hotel 
Grunewald,  the  Maison  Blanche,  and  the  Macheca  Building. 

Rear  View. 

Lake  Pontchartrain ;  the  wide  Tulane  avenue,  with  the  red 
Criminal  Court  Building  and  Parish  Prison,  and  in  the  dis- 
tance the  big  St.  Joseph's  Church,  and  in  the  far  distance  the 
Metairie  Ridge  Cemeteries. 

HOSPITALS. 

There  are  many  hospitals  in  New  Orleans,  but  only  two  or 
three  of  interest  to  strangers. 

Hotel  Dieu. 

On  Tulane  avenue,  corner  of  Johnson  street.  Take  Tulane  cars  on  Canal 
street  to  the  corner  of  Johnson  street.  Admission  at  main  entrance  on  Com- 
mon street. 

The  Hotel  Dieu  (literally.  House  of  God)  is  a  private  hos- 
pital under  the  management  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity,  and  is 
remarkable  for  its  neatness  and  good  hospital  appointments. 
The  building,  which  is  a  large  brick  structure,  facing  Common 
street,  occupies  nearly  a  whole  square  and  was  built  for  a  hos- 
pital. The  Sisters,  finding  the  first  story  was  too  low,  deter- 
mined to  have  the  building  raised,  and  in  1884  the  whole  hos- 
pital fronting  on  Tulane  avenue  was  bodily  raised  by  a  series 
of  jack-screws  placed  under  it,  and  without  disturbing  the 
inmates.  The  hospital  is  much  used  by  strangers  and  citizens 
without  homes,  who  resort  here  for  treatment.  The  charges, 
which  include  medicines  and  medical  attendance,  as  well  as 
nourishment,  vary  according  to  accommodation,  up  to  $5  per 
day. 

Charity  Hospital. 

On  Tulane  avenue,  between  Locust  and  Howard  streets.  Take  Tulane  cars 
on  Canal  street  to  the  door  of  the  Hospital.  For  admission,  apply  to  janitor 
on  duty  at  the  gate. 

Through  the  liberality  of  several  citizens,  and  with  the  aid 
of  the  State,  the  Charity  Hospital  was  erected  in  1832,  after 


198  New  Orleans  Guide. 

the  plan  of  the  hospital  of  Shrewsbury,  England.     The  build- 
ing, 300  feet  long  by  50  feet  deep,  is  of  brick,  and  stands  in 
the  centre  of  a  square  surrounded  by  gardens.     Any  one  sick 
or  injured  is  admitted  free  of  charge,  nursed  and  fed  until  able 
to  leave  the  hospital.    It  is  essentially,  as  its  name  implies,  a 
''Charity  Hospital,"  with  its  doors  open  night  and  day,  all 
the  year,  to  the  afflicted  of  all  classes  and  nationalities.     The 
Sisters  of  Charity,  those  angels  of  mercy,  ever  found  where 
there  is  suffering,  have  charge  of  the  hospital  under  the  guid- 
ance of  a  house-surgeon  and  the  first  physicians  of  the  city. 
The  number  of  persons  treated  usually  exceeds  5,000  a  year, 
and  during  epidemics  this  number  is  greatly  increased.    From 
1832  to  1902,  a  period  of  seventy  years,  538,864  persons  have 
been   treated   within   its   walls,   of  which   451,595   were   dis- 
charged and  78,867  died,  being  a  mortality  of  14  per  cent. 
For  the  purpose  of  discipline  and  management,  the  wards  of 
the  hospital  are  divided  into  four  general  divisions :    1,  Medi- 
cal ;   2,  Surgical ;   3,  Lying-in,  and  4,  Yenereal,  with  42  wards. 
The  hospital  is  a  perfect  little  world  within  itself,  and  contains 
seldom  less  than  eight  hundred  people,  patients  and  employees, 
at  one  time  and  often  more  than  a  thousand.  On  each  side  of  the 
main  entrance  are  the  various  offices  of  the  institution,  which 
is  managed  by  a  Board  of  Administrators,  appointed  by  the 
Governor.     The  first  story  contains  the  Surgical  and  Opthal- 
mic  wards  (two  of  which  are  for  colored  patients),  the  labora- 
tory, apothecary,  mess-room  and  store-rooms.    The  second  and 
third  floors  are  devoted  to  the  general  medical  wards.    In  the 
right  hand  wing  are  the  women's  wards,  and  in  the  left  the 
laundry  and  kitchen.     In  the  rear  of  the  main  entrance  is  a 
large  operating-room,  donated  by  Dr.  Miles,  which  is  consid- 
ered one  of  the  finest  of  its  kind  in"  the  world.    As  there  is  no 
difficulty  in  obtaining  dead  and  live  subjects,  this  hospital  is  a 
great  resort  for  students  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  twelve 
of  whom  are  usually  selected  by  the  Board  to  reside  in  the 
hospital,  free  of  any  expense,  to  assist  the  surgeons.     To  sup- 
port this  great  institution,  more  than  $100,000  is  annually 
appropriated  by  the  State.   One  of  the  most  important  branches 
of  the  charity  work  is  the  Charity  Hospital  ambulance  service, 
organized  under  Gov.  McEnery's  administration.     At  a  tele- 
phone call,  night  or  day,  an  ambulance,  fully  equipped  with 
temporary  relief  means  and  accompanied  by  two  medical  stu- 
dents, dashes  off  to  any  part  of  the  city  to  bring  the  patient  to 
the  Hospital.    New  Orleans  is  proud  of  the  ambulance  service. 


200  New  Orleans  Guide. 

which  is  considered  one  of  the  best  in  existence.  Two  elegant 
buildings  face  the  avenue  and  are  used  as  the  out-door  clinics 
of  the  institution.  In  the  grounds  is  the  magnificent  Milliken 
liospital,  erected  by  Mrs.  Richard  Milliken  as  a  memorial  to 
her  husband,  and  which  is  used  as  a  children's  hospital.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  perfect  institutions  in  the  world,  and  should 
be  visited. 

Eye,  Ear,  Nose  and  Throat  Hospital. 

No.  203  North  Rampart  street.  A  free  hospital  maintained 
for  the  poor  by  private  subscriptions  of  citizens. 

Camp  Nicholls— Soldiers'  Home. 

Bayou  St.  John,  near  Esplanade  street.  An  asylum  home 
for  old  or  infirm  Confederate  soldiers,  maintained  by  the 
State. 

TouRO   Infirmary. 

Prytania  street,  between  Amelia  and  Delachaise  streets.  The 
Touro  Infirmary  was  founded  by  the  Jews,  but  all  sects  pat- 
ronize it  on  account  of  the  excellent  care  and  attention  be- 
stowed on  patients.  It  is  a  model  institution,  with  a  free  out- 
door clinic,  of  which  the  Jews  are  justly  proud. 

Smallpox  Hospital. 

South  Hagan  avenue.     A  free  hospital,  maintained  by  the 

city. 


ICE  MANUFACTURE. 

Ice  is  manufactured  at  several  ice  works  in  this  city;  in 
fact,  natural  ice  has  been  almost  driven  out  of  the  market.  The 
improved  Carre  patent  is  mostly  used,  by  which  Mississippi 
River  water,  after  being  made  clear  by  condensation,  is  placed 
in  metallic  molds  and  these  in  reservoirs,  the  water  of  which 
is  made  cold  to  a  freezing  point  by  coils  of  pipes  filled 
with  ammonia  evaporated  by  heat  in  iron  drums.  Bouquets, 
fruits,  fish  and  bottles  of  wine  are  often  frozen  in  blocks  of  ice, 
the  flowers  and  fish  or  fruits  retaining  their  natural  colors. 
Consult  City  Directory  for  location  of  ice  factories. 


202  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Delord  Street  Ice  Works. 

On  Uelord  street,  nine  blocks  from  Canal  street.  Take  Prytania  cars  to 
Delord  street,  and  walk  two  blocks  towards  the  river. 

These  works  were  erected  by  Senator  Jones,  of  Nevada,  and 
ice  is  here  manufactured  by  the  evaporation  of  ammonia,  pass- 
ing through  iron  tubes,  on  which  water  is  constantly  sprinkled. 
The  freezing-room,  with  its  huge  columns  of  ice,  is  a  marvel- 
ous sight,  and  well  worth  a  visit.  Admission  daily  without 
passes. 

INDIANS. 

The  Indians  that  are  seen  in  the  New  Orleans  markets  be- 
long to  the  tribe  of  Choctaws,  who  have  a  large  camp  on  the 
other  side  of  Lake  Pontchartrain.  The  tribe  is  civilized,  and 
many  are  devout  Catholics.  James  Mahout  Aby  was  elected, 
in  1879,  their  chief  for  life,  and  resides  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Bon  Fouca  Bayou.  These  Indians  support  themselves  by  pre- 
paring gumbo,  gathering  herbs  and  medicinal  plants  which 
they  sell  in  the  public  markets  of  the  city.  In  former  times 
there  existed  in  lower  Louisiana  numerous  tribes  that  are 
now  nearly  extinct,  but  have  given  their  names  to  various 
streams,  parishes  and  parts  of  the  State.  So  thus  we  have  the 
Houmas  (meaning  red-legs),  the  Attakapas  (meaning  man- 
eaters),  Tensas,  Haklopisas,  the  Tunicas,  and  many  other 
tribes.  The  Mississippi  River  was  called  by  the  Indians  ' '  Mes- 
chacebe, ' '  the  father  of  waters. 


JETTIES. 

Take  Lower  Coast  packet  to  Jetties   (Eadsport).     Distance.  116  miles. 

For  many  years  the  Mississippi  River  has  gradually  ex- 
tended itself  farther  out  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  town 
and  fort  of  Balize.  situated  on  a  branch  of  Pass  a  I'Outre, 
was  formerly  on  the  Gulf,  but  the  river  has  gradually  formed 
banks  beyond  it,  so  that  now  it  is  some  miles  inland.  Captain 
James  B.  Eads  saw  that  the  muddy  waters  of  the  river,  meet- 
ing those  of  the  Gulf,  made  a  deposit  and  formed  bars  outside, 
while  the  river  never  filled  up  as  long  as  there  was  a  good 
current.  He  proposed  to  Congress  for  a  large  sum  of  money 
to  build,  from  the  land  ends  of  the  South  Pass  to  the  Bar,  two 
jetties  to  confine  the  current  and  cause  the  bottom  to  scour  out. 


204  New  Orleans  Guide. 

This  proposition  was  accepted  and  the  work  commenced  by 
Eads'  South  Pass  Jetty  Company  building  two  walls,  one 
thousand  feet  apart,  composed  of  willow  mattresses,  held 
in  place  by  stone  ballast,  and  covered  with  a  top 
layer  of  concrete.  When  the  work  was  begun  the  depth 
of  water  between  the  land  ends  of  the  South  Pass  was  about 
thirty  feet,  and  the  water  gradually  became  more  shallow  un- 
til at  the  crest  of  the  bar  there  was  but  seven  feet.  The  waters 
having  been  confined  by  the  walls  of  the  jetties,  the  current 
scoured  the  bottom  until  this  depth  on  the  bar  increased  to 
over  twenty-eight  feet  and  the  westwardly  current  of  the  Gulf 
carries  off  all  the  sediment  out  into  deep  waters.  Many  per- 
sons predicted  that  these  works  could  not  stand  the  hurricanes 
that  sweep  with  such  violence  over  the  Gulf,  but,  so  far,  their 
predictions  have  not  been  verified.  The  completion  of  the 
jetties  is  one  of  the  great  engineering  feats  of  the  nineteenth 
century,  and  Captain  Eads  may  well  be  proud  of  his  success. 
All  vessels  now  use  the  South  Pass,  and  the  other  passes  are 
almost  abandoned.  The  jetties  have  been  such  a  success  that 
Congress  proposes  now  to  construct  similar  ones  at  Southwest 
Pass,  through  which  there  is  a  greater  volume  of  water. 


LAKE  ENDS. 

West  End. 

The  electric  trains  leave  for  West  End  at  different  hours  (see  Time  Table 
in  newspapers)  from  the  neutral  ground,  corner  of  Canal  and  Baronne  streets. 
Distance,  five  miles.     Fare,  round  trip,  15  cents. 

The  West  End  electric  trains  go  directly  out  Canal  street, 
between  two  driveways,  passing  (on  your  right)  at  Basin 
street  the  depot  of  the  Spanish  Fort  Road ;  at  Claiborne  street 
(on  your  right)  the  old  Crescent  City  Brewery;  at  Roman 
street  (on  your  right)  the  Canal  Street  Presbyterian  Church; 
(on  left)  the  Straight  Colored  University;  at  Broad  street 
(on  left  and  one  square  distant)  the  House  of  Detention,  and 
in  the  distance  (on  the  right)  the  oaks  of  the  old  City  Park; 
at  the  Metairie  Ridge  curve,  various  cemeteries  (right  and 
left)  ;  at  second  curve  (on  right),  the  Confederate  Monument 
(see  Monuments).  The  railroad  now  follows  alongside  the 
New  Canal,  a  State  work,  on  the  other  side  of  which  is  the 
Metairie  Cemetery  and  the  famous  Shellroad,  a  fine,  level  and 
smooth  drive  to  the  Lake,  much  frequented  by  fast  teams,  and 


Sights  of  the  City.  205 

which  gave  rise  to  the  slang  expression  ot*  "2:40  on  the 
Shellroad. "  The  canal  was  built  to  enable  schooners 
and  other  small  craft,  laden  with  lumber,  building  mate- 
rials and  naval  stores,  to  reach  the  heart  of  the  city. 
This  lake  is  a  brackish  body  of  water,  nearly  round; 
land  is  nowhere  to  be  seen,  the  opposite  shore  being  distant 
about  twenty-four  miles.  At  the  West  End  (railroad  side  of  the 
canal)  are  the  boat-houses  of  the  St.  John's  Rowing  Club,  the 
West  End  Rowing  Club  and  other  clubs.  Crossing  the  foot- 
bridge, the  Music  Plaza  is  reached,  where  every  evening  during 
the  Summer  months  concerts  are  given;  near  by  are 
a  Summer  theatre,  saloons,  sideshows,  and  the  large 
hotel  restaurant  building  (Tranchina's),  which  is  renowned, 
for  its  '* cuisine"  and  delicate  fish  dinners.  Passing  behind 
the  pavilion,  a  long  wharf  is  reached,  at  the  end  of  which  is 
the  Southern  Yacht  Club  House,  the  starting  point  for  the 
annual  regattas.  Beyond  the  Music  Plaza  the  Revetment 
Levee  extends  with  its  gardens,  flowers,  walks,  fountains  and 
kiosks,  forming  a  delightful  promenade  night  and  day,  along 
the  lake  shore,  for  over  a  mile.  An  intricate  maze  puzzle  of 
shrubbery  is  laid  out  here  and  is  the  source  of  great  amuse- 
ment to  visitors.    Baths  at  the  end  of  the  pier,  15  cents. 

Spanish  Fort. 

The  steam  trains  leave  the  depot,  corner  of  Canal  and  Basin  streets,  at 
different  hours  (see  Time  Table  in  newspapers).  Distance,  five  miles.  Fare, 
round  trip,  15  cents. 

The  Spanish  Fort  trains  turn  from  North  Basin  street  into 
Bienville  street;  passing  (on  right)  the  head  basin  of  Caron- 
delet  Canal  (Bayou  St.  John)  and  the  old  St.  Louis  Cemetery 
No.  1 ;  following  Bienville  street  passes  between  the  St.  Louis 
Cemeteries;  at  Broad  street  (on  right)  the  House  of  the  Good 
Shepherd  (see  Asylums)  ;  at  Carrollton  avenue,  in  the  dis- 
tance, the  old  City  Park  and  its  oaks;  at  Metairie  Ridge  (City 
Park  avenue)  the  train  passes  through  the  old  City  Park 
with  its  majestic  oaks ;  thence,  following  the  Orleans  drain- 
ing canal.  Lake  Pontchartrain  is  reached.  Lake  Pontchar- 
train  is  a  brackish  sheet  of  water  not  over  ten  to  fifteen  feet 
deep  and  twenty-four  miles  wide.  Its  commerce  is  most- 
ly confined  to  schooners  of  light  draft,  transporting  lumber 
and  naval  stores  from  the  pine  woods  of  the  Louisiana  and 
Mississippi  coasts.    Spanish  Fort  is  a  small  village  with  pleas- 


206  New  Orleans  Guide. 

ure  gardens,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Bayou  St.  John,  a 
stream  navigable  for  schooners;  this  stream  connects  with 
Canal  Carondelet,  one  of  the  canals  leading  to  the  centre  of  the 
city.  The  fort,  erected  by  the  Spaniards  and  called  Fort  St. 
John,  was  armed  and  garrisoned  by  them  during  their  occupa- 
tion of  the  colony,  but  being  too  far  inland,  was  of  no  service, 
so  it  was  abandoned  and  part  of  its  armanent  left  there.  The 
contour  of  the  fortification,  built  of  small  brick,  is  yet  well 
preserved;  only  the  embrasures  have  been  filled  up  and  the 
parapet  made  level  to  accommodate  seats.  A  house  has  been 
built  on  one  side  of  the  fort  for  a  restaurant,  formerly 
patronized  for  its  fish  dinners.  The  foundations  of  many  of 
the  old  houses  inside  the  fort  are  still  visible  and  its  venerable 
walls,  showing  but  little  signs  of  decay,  are  in  as  good  a  state 
of  preservation  as  when  the  proud  banner  of  Castile  waved 
over  them.  Behind  the  fort  (on  the  upper  side,  near  the  gate 
leading  into  the  garden)  are  four  cypress  trees,  planted  at  an 
equal  distance  apart;  tradition  says  they  mark  the  grave  of  a 
young  Spanish  officer,  killed  in  a  duel  on  that  spot.  It  was  at 
this  fort  that  General  Jackson,  in  1814,  hastening  from  the 
Indian  war  in  Tennessee,  to  take  command  of  New  Orleans  to 
oppose  the  British  advance,  first  landed,  coming  across  the 
lake  in  a  schooner.  From  this  place  he  rode  to  Bayou  Bridge 
and  there  rested  before  making  his  entry  into  the  city  the  next 
day.  Outside  the  fort  are  pleasure  gardens,  with  walks  and 
flowers  and  semi-tropical  shrubbery.  Near  by  are  a  concert 
hall,  a  Summer  theatre,  and  sundry  amusements.  In  the  gar- 
den is  an  alligator  pond,  containing  some  fine  specimens ;  also 
a  maze  puzzle  which  affords  considerable  amusement.  A 
prominent  object  of  interest  in  the  garden  is  an  old  torpedo 
boat,  fished  up  out  of  the  canal  a  few  years  ago,  a  relic  of  the 
Civil  War,  and  perhaps  the  first  submarine  boat  ever  devised. 
At  times,  in  Summer,  concerts  are  given  here,  and  the  gardens 
are  lighted  by  electricity,  and  present  a  fairy-like  aspect. 
Bath-houses  at  the  end  of  piers.    Baths,  15  cents. 

Old  Lake  End  (Milneburg). 

steam  trains  start  from  the  corner  of  Elysian  Fields  and  Chartres  streets. 
(See  newspapers  for  liours  and  starting  points.)  Take,  on  Canal  street,  the 
Carondelet  cars  to  depot,  or  Levee  and  Barracks  cars  in  front  of  Customhouse 
,0  depot.    Distance,  four  miles.    Fare,  round  trip,  15  cents. 

The  Pontchartrain  Railroad,  as  it  is  usually  called,  was  the 
second  railroad  built  in  the  United  States,  and  for  a  long  time 


208  New  Orleans  Guide. 

was  considered  a  wonder  to  behold.  The  locomotive  and  means 
for  running  the  trains  were  for  several  years  very  primitive, 
and  were  improved  very  little  with  time.  All  the  railroads  in 
England  and  the  United  States  for  many  years  unloaded  their 
freight  as  wagons  unload,  until  the  superintendent  of  this 
railroad  invented  the  simple  platform,  which  was  speedily 
adopted  by  all  railroads.  Leaving  the  city,  the  road  goes  direct 
to  the  lake  in  a  straight  line,  four  miles,  which  is  the  narrow- 
est point  between  the  lake  and  the  river.  Washington  Square, 
with  the  Third  Presbyterian  Church  (on  left)  ;  at  St.  Claude 
street  (on  right)  Shell  Beach  Railroad  depot  to  Lake  Borgne. 
At  the  Gentilly  Ridge  (on  left),  a  Jewish  cemetery;  passing 
through  old  fortifications,  erected  in  1862,  and  the  swamp, 
Milneburg  is  reached,  a  small  village  named  after  Alexander 
Milne,  a  benevolent  old  Scotchman.  This  village  is  composed 
of  a  series  of  restaurants  and  bathing-houses  and  many  little 
club-houses  built  on  piers  over  the  water.  At  the  end  of  the 
long  pier  is  a  lighthouse,  with  a  flash-light. 


LEVEE. 

The  landings  on  the  river  from  Julia  street  to  St.  Louis  street. 

The  levee,  or  dyke,  which  was  built  in  early  times  to  protect 
the  city  from  overflow  of  the  river,  was  gradually  raised  and 
levelled  until  finally,  to-day,  it  forms  a  large  plaza  several 
squares  wide,  extending  from  Julia  to  St.  Louis  streets.  All 
the  landings  along  the  front  of  the  city  are  called  levees,  but 
the  name  is  more  properly  applied  to  the  above  described 
space.  This  great  landing  is  divided  into  three  levees,  the 
Grain  Levee  at  the  head  of  Poydras  street,  the  Cotton  Levee  at 
the  head  of  Canal  street,  the  Sugar  Levee  at  the  head  of  Conti 
street.  On  the  levee  goods  are  landed  and  sold,  and  during 
the  busy  season  the  levee  presents  a  busy,  bustling  scene. 

LIBRARIES. 

State  Library. 

134  University  Place. 

A  small  and  good  library  for  reference,  and  has  a  collection 
of  some  works  of  value.  Library  open  to  the  public  daily  from 
9  a.  m.  to  3  p.  m. 


210  New  Orleans  Guide. 

New  Orleans  Public  Library. 

Camp  street,  opposite  Lafayette  Square. 

The  largest  library  in  the  city,  containing  many  rare  French 
and  English  works.  Library  open  to  the  public  daily  from  9 
a.  m.  This  library,  managed  by  a  board  of  directors, 
is  composed  of  the  old  City,  the  Fisk  and  the  Hernsheim 
Libraries,  organized  by  Librarian  William  Beer,  as  a  circulat- 
ing library,  issuing  about  8500  books  monthly  and  about  100,- 
000  annually. 

TuLANE  Library. 

In  Tulane  University. 

This  library,  a  recent  foundation,  contains  many  rare  vol- 
umes, and  is  destined  to  be  in  the  future  one  of  the  large  libra- 
ries of  the  country.    Library  open  daily  9  a.  m. 

Howard  Memorial  Library. 

Corner  of  Camp  and  Howard  avenue.  Take,  on  Canal  street,  Prytania  or 
Magazine  cars  to  door.     Open  daily.     No  cards  of  admission  required. 

The  Howard  Library  was  erected  by  Miss  Annie  Howard  as 
a  memorial  to  her  father,  the  late  Charles  T.  Howard,  and  is 
a  unique-looking  building  of  rough  brown  stone,  designed  hy 
Richardson,  the  celebrated  architect.  The  interior,  which  is 
beautifully  finished  in  highly  polished  hard  woods,  contains  a 
library  with  alcoves  full  of  books  and  a  handsome  circular 
reading  room.  The  librarian,  Mr.  Beer,  takes  great  pride  in 
making  it  a  library  of  useful  books,  with  all  the  very  latest 
works  on  all  subjects. 

MEMORIAL  HALL. 

No.  921  Camp  street,  adjoining  Howard  Library.  Take  Prytania  or  Maga- 
zine cars  to  door.     Open  daily.     No  cards  of  admission  required. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  places  to  visit  is  the  Memorial 
Hall,  erected  by  the  liberality  of  Frank  T.  Howard,  Esq.,  from 
a  design  by  Sully,  as  a  depository  of  historical  and  war  relics. 
The  interior  is  of  highly  polished  hard  woods,  and  around  the 
wall  are  glass  cases  filled  with  historical  documents,  swords, 
bullets  and  other  relics  of  the  Civil  War.  The  battle  flags  of 
several  Confederate  regiments  are  hung  from  the  ceiling,  and 
the  hall  is  an  interesting  place  where  several  hours  may  be 
spent.  At  night  the  hall  is  used  as  a  meeting  room  for  several 
camps  of  Confederate  veterans. 


212  New  Orleans  Gui»e.  j 

MARKETS. 

French  Market. 

Ou  the  Levee,  near  Jackson  Square,  seven  blocks  distant  from  Canal  street. 
Take  Barracks  cars  on  Canal  street  in  front  of  Customhouse  and  get  out  at 
the  lower  end  of  Jackson  Square,  which  is  the  head  of  the  Market ;  or  take 
the  Carondelet  cars,  which  cross  Canal  street  at  the  corner  of  Carondelet  and 
Canal  streets.  Get  out  at  St.  Ann  street,  walk  three  squares  towards  river, 
and  the  head  of  the  market  is  reached.  Market  open  daily  5  a.  m.  to  11  a.  m., 
but  Sunday  morning  is  the  great  day.  The  best  hour  to  see  the  Market  in  full 
operation  is  between  8  and  9  a.  m.  Near  the  head  of  the  Market,  in  the  out- 
side aisle,  and  also  at  end  of  the  Vegetable  Market,  are  the  celebrated  coffee 
stands,  where  visitors,  for  5  cents,  can  obtain,  at  all  hours,  delic'ous  coffee, 
made  with  a  dripper,  in  the  Creole  fashion,  and  a  peculiar  kind  of  wafer-like 
pastry  called  "coffee  cakes." 

One  of  the  principal  objects  of  interest  in  New  Orleans, 
which  the  stranger  should  not  fail  to  visit,  is  the  ''French 
Market."  To  go  away  without  seeing  this  place,  with  its 
throng  of  inhabitants  shouting  in  all  languages  of  the  world, 
and  selling  fruits  from  the  tropics,  such  as  are  not  seen  else- 
where, is  equivalent  to  not  having  seen  New  Orleans.  All 
nationalities  and  colors  congregate  at  this  market,  which  is 
more  like  an  Eastern  bazaar,  as  meat,  fish,  dry  goods,  boots, 
shoes,  tin  pans,  and  articles  of  household  use  are  sold  there 
every  day  of  the  week,  and  especially  on  Sundays.  The  French 
Market  comprises  five  distinct  and  separate  markets,  which 
are  generally  known  as  the  meat,  the  bazaar,  the  fruit,  the  veg- 
etable, and  the  fish  markets.  Between  these  several  markets 
are  small  open  spaces  occupied  by  Indians  and  peddlers  of 
fruit,  tinware  and  notions.  Sunday  morning,  which  is  the 
day  when  the  market  can  be  seen  in  all  its  glory,  the  crowd 
commences  to  collect  early,  gradually  increasing  as  the  day 
advances,  until,  at  9  o'clock,  the  throng  is  so  dense  that  circu- 
lation is  impeded.  The  crowd  keeps  coming  and  going  until 
the  bell  rings  at  11  o'clock  as  a  signal  to  close  up  and  to  com- 
mence cleaning  up  for  the  day.  As  the  population  of  New 
Orleans  is  very  much  mixed,  a  great  many  nationalities  are 
seen  in  the  French  Market,  and  the  way  English  words  are 
mixed  with  French  and  Spanish,  and  the  manner  in  which 
words  are  twisted  renders  the  Babel  of  tongues  very  confusing. 
On  one  side,  the  Sicilians  offer,  ''Bananey— cheapee!  Mad- 
amey"  or  ''narange  (oranges)  cheappey  per  picayuney"  (5 
cents).  On  the  other,  half  in  French  and  English,  you  are 
offered  bright  colored  calicoes,  so  many  yards  for  so  many 
escalins  (a  bit,  or  121/2  cents).  Mine  friend  Moses  is  here, 
also,  to  offer  you  coats  ''cheap  for  cash"  that  fit  "like  the 
paper  on  the  wall."  Step  outside  on  the  Levee,  and  an  artist  is 


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214  '  New  Orleans  Guide. 

ready  to  take  your  picture  while  you  watch  acrobats  going 
through  their  performances,  or  a  traveling  dentist  pulling 
teeth  for  a  mere  trifle.  Fat  negresses,  with  gaudy  "tignons^' 
(head  handkerchiefs),  stroll  along,  talking  gumbo  French,  a 
mixture  of  French,  Spanish  and  English  words,  making  their 
marketing  or  buying  their  wardrobes  and  exchanging  sweet 
morsels  of  news  or  gossip.  Amidst  all  this  noise  and  confu- 
sion, the  Choctaw  Indians  sit,  silent  as  statues,  apparently 
oblivious  of  their  surroundings,  keeping  a  strict  watch  on 
their  baskets  of  herbs  and  plants,  and  their  bright-eyed  little 
papooses  (babies),  strapped  to  planks,  as  is  their  Indian  cus- 
tom.    , 

Meat  Market.  — The  first  of  the  series  of  markets  composing 
the  French  Market  is  the  Meat  Market,  erected  in  1813,  at  a  cost 
of  $30,000,  on  the  spot  where  stood  the  first  market,  destroyed 
during  the  fearful  hurricane  of  the  year  previous.     The  stalls 
are  mostly  occupied  by  Gascon  butchers  from  France,  who  mo- 
nopolize the  butcher  business  of  the  city.     The  meat  sold  is 
generally  Texas  beef,  and  brings  usually  121/2  cents  per  pound. 
The  stalls  are  frequently  ornamented  with  pictures  of  mead- 
ows on  which  graze  most  wonderful-looking  cattle  in  impossi- 
ble attitudes-,    in  the  foreground  the  artist   (?)   often  intro- 
duces what  is  supposed  to  be  the  portrait  of  the  owner  of  the 
stall,  but  what  may  be  taken  for  any  butcher  in  the  market. 
At  the  head  of  the  market  are  the  several  coffee  stands,  much 
frequented  by  strangers.    Before  leaving  this  market,  go  over 
into  the  aisle  nearest  the  street  and  examine  the  various  kinds 
of  potted  meats,   called  in  French   "  charcuterie, "   some   of 
which  are  excellent  for  cold  lunches.     Passing  into  the  open 
space  beyond,  we  come  to  the  rendezvous  of  the  Indians,  a 
remnant  of  the  once  powerful  tribe  of  Choctaws.    These  Indi- 
ans live  on  the  North  side  of  Lake  Pontchartrain,  and  belong 
to  the  tribe  under  the  Chief  James  Mahot-Aby,  who,  in  1879, 
was  elected  chief  for  life.    Their  principal  occupation  is  gath- 
ering herbs  and  medicinal  plants,  which  meet  a  ready  sale  in 
the  market.     Laurel  and  bay  leaves,  used  by  Creole  cooks  to 
season  soups  and  dishes,  are  sold  by  them,  as  well  as  ''file" 
(gumbo),  a  sort  of  green  powder,  used  to  make  the  celebrated 
gumbo  soup.      This  is  prepared  by  pomading  up   sassafras 
leaves,  bay  leaves  and  some  other  herbs,  previously  dried  in 
the  shade.     Plantain   (deer  tongue),  used  to  perfume  ward- 
robes and  linen  closets,  by  spreading  the  leaves  among  the 
clothes,  is  sold  by  them  at  certain  seasons  for  a  few  cents  a 


216  New  Orleans  Guide. 

bunch;  also  pieces  of  latannier  root  or  palmetto,  used  for 
scrubbing  brushes.  Among  their  medicinal  stock,  the  Indian 
or  wild  turnip  is  found  ,which,  boiled  by  the  natives  in  syrup, 
is  considered  a  sure  cure  for  consumption.  Blow-guns  and 
arrows  made  of  the  wild  cane  are  among  their  stock,  and  can 
be  purchased  for  a  trifle.  Negro  women  station  themselves  at 
this  spot,  offering  for  sale  ''pralines,"  sugar  cakes  made  of 
pecan  or  peanuts,  "callas, "  a  species  of  soft  doughnut  made 
of  rice  and  "pain  patate, "  a  kind  of  pie  or  cold  pudding  made 
of  sweet  potatoes. 

Bazaar  Market.— The  next  market  is  called  the  Bazaar  Mar- 
ket, a  structure  of  iron,  used  for  the  sale  of  vegetables,  fruits, 
etc.  We  come  then  into  an  open  space  occupied  by  vegetable, 
fruit  and  flower  vendors.  During  the  Louisiana  orange  sea- 
son, October  to  January,  bins  full  of  fine  oranges  are  seen  on 
all  sides.  Bananas  do  not  ripen  in  New  Orleans  as  well  as  in 
the  tropics  and  have  to  be  brought  from  the  neighboring 
islands  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  but  oranges  and  figs  grow  to 
perfection.  During  the  height  of  the  season  oranges  can  be 
purchased  at  these  bins  as  low  as  30  cents  a  hundred. 

Fruit  Market.  — Cro^^mg  the  street,  we  reach  a  triangular 
market  used  for  fruit  and  poultry.  Here  the  fruits  of  the 
tropics  are  sold  at  reasonable  rates. 

Vegetable  Market.— The  next  market  is  the  great  ''Vege- 
table Market, ' '  a  most  interesting  place,  where  vegetables,  gro- 
ceries, flowers  and  fruits  are  sold.  Owing  to  the  warm  climate 
of  the  surrounding  country,  the  seasons  are  very  advanced 
and  strawberries,  green  peas,  and  other  early  fruits  and  veg- 
etables are  sold  here  in  December  and  January.  Many  of  the 
vegetables  sold  in  this  market  do  not  grow  at  the  North  and 
can  be  purchased  here  cheap.  In  the  Spring,  the  first  fruit 
that  makes  its  appearance  in  market  is  the  "Japanese  plum" 
or  "Mespilus,"  a  bright  yellow  and  slightly  tart  fruit  with  a 
tender  pulp  and  several  large  seeds.  Pomegranates  and  figs 
appear  in  July.  Of  the  latter  the  "figue  celeste,"  a  small 
brown  fig,  is  much  preferred  to  the  large  black  or  white  fig, 
which  is  too  coarse-grained  and  not  sweet  enough.  Plantains, 
a  large  kind  of  banana,  brought  from  the  islands  of  the  Gulf, 
are  not  sweet  enough  to  eat  raw,  so  the  Creoles  slice  them  and 
eat  them  fried  or  stewed,  with  butter  and  sugar.  In  this  mar- 
ket bouquets  made  of  vegetables,  artistically  carved  to  repre- 
sent flowers,  are  offered  for  sale  at  moderate  prices.     At  the 


CLAY    STATUE. 


218  New  Orleans  Guide. 

lower  end  are  the  best  coffee  stands  in  the  market — where  good 
coffee  and  chocolate  are  kept  steaming  hot. 

Fish  Market. — After  passing  through  the  Vegetable  Mar- 
ket, the  Fish  Market  is  reached.  This  building,  a  structure  of 
iron  and  glass,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  on  account  of  the 
great  variety  of  fish  offered  for  sale.  On  the  white  marble 
tables  are  seen  brilliant  Red-snappers  with  large  coral-colored 
fins,  the  Red-fish,  much  liked  in  "  courtbouillon, '  •  the  much 
appreciated  Sheephead,  the  famous  Spanish  Mackerel,  and, 
last  but  not  least,  the  Pompano,  considered  by  gourmets  to  be 
the  finest  and  most  delicate  fish  that  swims  in  any  waters,  and 
which  strangers  should  not  fail  to  taste  at  some  good  restau- 
rant. Crabs,  hard  and  soft,  and  Shrimp  from  the  lake  and 
river,  the  former  being  the  largest,  but  not  esteemed  as  much 
as  the  latter,  are  sold  in  quantities.  Crayfish,  a  small  lobster- 
like fish,  are  sold  from  large  baskets  and  used  to  make  the 
famous  ''bisque"  soup.  .These  little  fish  are  caught  princi- 
pally in  the  river,  where  they  do  great  damage  to  the  levees, 
by  boring  holes  in  them.  Sea  Trout,  Mullet,  Catfish,  Croakers 
and  many  other  varieties  are  always  on  sale.  The  fish  business 
is  carried  on  by  a  class  of  Spaniards  and  Italians  who  are 
usually  called  "Dagoes."  They  own  their  own  boats,  small 
sailing  vessels,  called  luggers,  having  one  mast,  on  which  they 
hoist  a  lateen  sail.  These  boats  go  through  the  various  canals 
to  the  fishing  grounds  in  the  Gulf,  and  lay  in  their  stock,  pack 
it  away  in  ice  boxes,  and  hasten  to  the  city.  Some  of  the  fish 
are  brought  from  greater  distances,  for  instance  the  Pompano, 
which  is  only  found  in  certain  spots  on  the  Florida  coast. 
Green  turtle  comes  also  from  Florida,  and  is  always  to  be  had 
in  the  market.  The  proximity  of  New  Orleans  to  the  sea  and 
fresh  water  streams  makes  it  the  best  fish  and  oyster  market 
in  the  United  States  after  that  of  Mobile ;  while  in  winter  the 
bayous  and  woods  are  filled  with  game  of  all  kinds.  Fish  is 
cheap  here  in  comparison  to  other  large  cities.  A  fine  Red- 
snapper  or  Red-fish,  enough  for  ten  persons,  can  be  bought  for 
50  cents ;  Sheephead  are  little  higher,  and  small  Pompano  sell 
as  low  as  25  cents  each  and  as  high  as  $5.  Shrimp,  10  cents 
a  plate,  and  hard  Crabs,  15  cents  a  dozen.  Near  the  end  of  the 
Fish  Market  is  the  Game  Market,  which  in  winter  is  stocked 
with  "Wild  Ducks,  Geese,  Turkeys,  Rabbits,  Woodcock,  Snipe 
and  all  varieties  of  game.  Wild  Ducks  are  sometimes  very 
abundant,  and  sell  lower  than  50  cents  a  pair. 


7^ 


FRANKLIN    STATUE. 


220  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Route  Home.— The  return  to  the  hotel  or  Canal  street  is  a 
pleasant  walk  and  on  the  way  are  several  objects  of  interest. 
Cross  Jackson  Square  (see  Parks  and  Squares)  in  the  centre 
"of  which  is  the  Jackson  Monument  (see  Monuments),  and 
drop  in  at  the  Cathedral  (see  Churches),  where  the  services 
are  usually  going  on;  thence  up  Chartres  street  to  Canal 
street  (seven  squares) ,  stopping  on  the  way  at  the  various  bird 
stores  to  see  their  birds,  monkeys  and  other  curiosities.  A  visit 
to  the  French  Market  usually  winds  up  with  a  breakfast  at 
Begue's  (see  Restaurants). 

PoYDRAs  Market. 

Corner  of  Baronne  and  Poydras  streets.  Market  held  every  day,  Sundays 
included,  5  a.  m.  to  11  a.  m.     Five  blocks  distant  from  Canal  street. 

The  Poydras  Market,  named  after  the  street  on  which  it 
stands,  so  called  in  honor  of  Julien  Poydras,  a  benevolent 
citizen  and  founder  of  several  orphan  asylums,  is  the  principal 
market  of  the  American  quarter,  and  resembles  the  French 
Market  on  a  much  smaller  scale.  It  is  noted  for  the  excellence 
of  its  meat  and  is  well  patronized.  On  week  days,  in  the 
middle  of  the  market,  rows  of  negro  women  stand  like  soldiers, 
waiting  for  scrubbing  or  washing  jobs  and  remind  one  of  the 
time  slaves  stood  in  line  for  sale  at  the  slave  marts  of  the  city. 

Other  Markets. 

Many  other  markets  are  scattered  over  the  city.  (See  City 
Directory). 

TULANE  HALL. 

On  University  Place,  near  Canal  street. 

The  Mechanics'  Institute,  now  called  Tulane  Hall,  was  built 
for  an  institute  and  library  and  is  an  historic  building.  Dur- 
ing the  late  Civil  War,  when  a  State  government  was  formed 
under  the  protection  of  the  Union  forces,  this  building  was 
made  the  State  Capitol.  After  the  war  it  continued  to  be  used 
for  the  same  purpose,  and  in  1866,  here  occurred  the  ''July 
Riots. ' '  This  disturbance  was  caused  by  the  unauthorized  as- 
sembling of  the  old  State  Convention  of  1864.  The  president 
of  that  body,  E.  H.  Durrell,  afterwards  judge  of  the  United 
States  District  Court,  refused  to  call  it  together,  as  he  consid- 
ered it  was  a  defunct  body,  but  the  Governor  of  the  State,  J. 


i 


^ 

>'^^™ 


v<.^    ^-^-w ,  "  -fit 


M^DONOGH    MONUMENT. 


222  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Madison  Wells,  being  undecided  with  whom  to  cast  his  lot,  the 
Democrats  or  the  Republicans,  maintained  an  undecided,  non- 
committal attitude,  favoring  more  the  Republicans,  so  a  por- 
tion only  of  the  old  Convention  met  at  the  call  of  a  few  mem- 
bers. The  Democrats  determined  that  the  Convention  should 
not  meet,  and  thus,  with  the  countenance  of  the  Republican 
party  in  Congress,  legislate  them  out  of  the  State  government, 
of  which  they  had  possession,  except  the  governorship.  The 
Mayor  of  the  city,  a  Democrat,  acting  under  an  old  law  of  the 
State  forbidding  meetings  of  assemblies  designed  to  overturn 
the  government,  directed  the  city  police,  in  conjunction  with 
the  sheriff  of  the  parish,  to  prevent  the  assembling  of  the  Con- 
vention. The  members,  surrounded  by  some  negro  adherents, 
barricaded  themselves  in  the  hall  of  this  building.  Refusing  to 
obey  the  summons  of  the  sheriff,  the  front  doors  were  forced 
and  in  the  scuffle,  following  the  arrest  of  the  members,  several 
were  killed,  together  with  some  of  their  colored  allies.  This, 
called  the  ' '  July  Riots, ' '  fanned  the  dying  embers  of  the  Civil 
War  into  a  flame  again,  sending  troops  into  the  State,  and 
causing  the  passage  of  the  Reconstruction  Laws  in  Congress, 
by  which  all  the  States  in  the  South  were  relegated  for  a  while 
to  military  rule.  Later  on,  after  a  new  State  government  was 
organized,  complications  often  arose  and  the  militia  were 
called  upon  at  various  times  to  quiet  troubles  among  the 
Republicans  themselves.  In  December,  1872,  the  Legislature 
was  called  to  meet  in  extra  session  in  this  building,  and  C.  C. 
Antoine,  the  aspiring  Republican  Lieutenant  Governor,  sought 
through  the  United  States  District  Court  to  enjoin  the  State 
officers  and  Legislature  from  the  counting  of  the  returns  of  the 
recent  election.  Judge  Durrell,  alleging  that  he  feared  that  his 
injunction  would  not  be  respected,  signed  an  order,  at  mid- 
night, directing  the  United  States  Marshal  to  seize  and  hold  the 
Capitol.  The  marshal,  by  virtue  of  this  ''midnight  order," 
with  a  company  of  United  States  troops,  seized  the  Capitol  and 
refused  to  allow  any  but  the  partisans  of  Kellogg,  the  aspir- 
ing Governor,  to  enter.  From  this  action  resulted  complica- 
tions, which  ended  by  installing  W.  P.  Kellogg  as  Governor,  in 
which  seat  he  was  maintained  for  four  years  by  Federal  troops. 
This  building  is  now  a  part  of  the  Tulane  University  of  Louis- 
iana, and  is  used  as  a  library  and  a  Public  Hall. 


LEE  MONUMENT. 


224  New  Orleans  Guide. 


MONUMENTS. 


Jackson  Monument. 

In  Jackson  Square,  on  Chartres  street,  six  squares  from  Canal  street.  Take 
Barracks  cars,  opposite  Customhouse. 

The  most  remarkable  monument  of  New  Orleans  is  tlie 
bronze  equestrian  statue  of  General  Andrew  Jackson,  erected 
in  the  centre  of  the  square  named  after  this  General.  The 
State  of  Louisiana  determined  to  erect  a  suitable  monument  to 
the  hero  who  achieved  the  signal  victory  on  January  8,  1815, 
over  the  British  on  the  plains  of  Chalmette,  six  miles  below  the 
city.  (See  Battle  of  New  Orleans) .  The  committee  having  the 
monument  in  charge  decided  to  adopt  the  model  of  Clark  Mills, 
which  is  an  exact  copy  of  the  statue  in  front  of  the  President 's 
house  in  Washington.  The  General  is  represented  in  full 
iniiforra  on  a  prarcing  horse,  apparently  entering  the  city,  with 
his  cnapeau  raised  as  if  in  the  act  of  saluting.  The  sU.tue  and 
pedestal  cost  $30,000.  It  is  condemned  by  some,  who  claim 
that  it  looks  like  a  hobby-horse,  and  that  the  position  of  the 
General  and  the  horse  is  not  natural.  By  others  it  is  much 
admired,  and  the  artist  is  highly  praised  for  the  great  feat  he 
accomplished  in  balancing  such  a  mass  of  metal.  Nearly  all 
equestrian  statues  have  props  beneath  them,  but  the  absence  of 
any  such  support  under  this  one  will  be  remarked— as  the  horse 
stands  on  its  hind  legs  perfectly  balanced.  In  this  position  the 
statue  has  withstood  all  the  hurricanes  and  storms  for  over 
forty  years  and  has  never  moved  an  inch.  How  the  artist 
was  able  to  accomplish  this  is  best  told  in  the  answer  made  by 
Clark  Mills  himself,  to  a  reporter  some  time  ago : 

"When  I  first  commenced  the  Jackson  statue  my  idea  was  to 
put  a  prop  under  the  horse 's  breast,  after  the  manner  of  every 
equestrian  statue  then  in  the  world,  but,  while  watching  a 
restive  horse,  which  was  being  exercised  in  front  of  my  door, 
the  animal  reared  with  its  rider,  and  an  instant  stood  poised 
upon  its  hind  legs.  My  position  was  such  that  the  perpendicu- 
lar jamb  of  the  door  drew  a  line  from  the  horse's  feet  through 
the  body  to  the  crest  of  the  neck,  the  front  half  of  the  body  and 
legs  of  the  rider  appearing  to  view,  while  the  hind  parts  and 
body  of  the  rider  were  behind  the  door  post.  As  he  stood  for 
an  instant,  I  caught  the  position  of  a  horse  balanced  for  a 
jump  and  saw  that  he  simply  shifted  his  weight  so  as  to  bring 
the  centre  of  gravity  upon  the  hind  feet.  This  idea  I  worked 
out  upon  my  model.     All  the  statements  in  newspapers  and 


CHALMETTE   MONUMENT. 


226  New  Orleans  Guide. 

guide  books  about  my  horse's  front  parts  being  hollow  and 
hind  parts  solid  to  adjust  it  in  position  are  simply  false. 
Another  absurd  report  is  that  he  is  bolted  down,  and,  when  the 
bolts  rust  away,  the  horse  will  pitch  over  on  his  nose,  'Go  to 
grass, '  as  the  saying' is.  There  is  not  a  bolt  about  it.  It  simply 
stands  upon  its  feet,  balanced.  You  see,  to  the  foot,  on  the 
small  model  I  hold,  is  eleven  and  one-half  inches,  and,  one  foot 
being  slightly  in  advance  of  the  other,  the  natural  position  of 
the  horse  when  standing,  gives  two  inches  more.  Now,  with  a 
base  of  thirteen  and  one-half  inches,  such  is  the  conservation 
of  fifteen  tons  accurately  balanced,  that  a  ton's  weight  at- 
tached to  the  horse 's  knees  would  not  trip  it  out  of  position. ' ' 

Clay  Statue. 

In  Lafayette  Square,   six  squares  from  Canal  street. 

In  1856,  the  citizens  of, New  Orleans  determined  to  erect  a 
statue  of  Henry  Clay,  the  great  Whig  statesman,  whose  saying, 
that  he  ' '  would  rather  be  right  than  be  President  of  the  United 
States,"  is  always  remembered.  Joel  T.  Hart,  of  Kentucky, 
was  the  artist  chosen,  and  he  succeeded  in  producing  a  most 
life-like  bronze  statue  of  the  great  statesman,  heroic  size,  repre- 
sented in  the  act  of  making  a  speech.  The  position  of  the 
figure  is  easy  and  graceful.  On  January  12,  1901,  the  statue 
was  removed  from  Canal  street  to  this  spot  and  a  new  corner- 
stone laid,  on  which  occasion  the  Hon.  Carleton  Hunt  delivered 
a  masterly  oration  on  the  life  and  times  of  Henry  Clay. 

Franklin  Statue. 

In  Lafayette  Square,  opposite  City  Hall,   six  squares  from  Canal  street. 

In  Lafayette  Square,  on  the  Camp  street  side,  is  the  white 
marble  statue,  by  Powers,  of  Benjamin  Franklin,  the  states- 
man, philosopher,  and  patriot.  The  statue  is  of  life-size,  and 
represents  Franklin  in  a  pensive  mood,  one  arm  resting  on  the 
trunk  of  a  tree  shivered  by  lightning,  and  the  other  on  the  hip. 
The  statue  faces  towards  the  river,  which  causes  the  wits  of  the 
city  to  remark  that  ''honest  Ben  Franklin"  had  to  turn  his 
back  on  the  fathers  in  the  City  Hall.  Through  the  exertions  of 
several  ladies,  a  part  of  the  funds  to  erect  this  statue  was 
raised,  and  through  the  liberalty  of  C.  A.  Weed,  the  subscrip- 
tion was  completed,  and  the  statue  erected  in  1872. 


CONFEDERATE    MONUMENT. 


228  New  Orleans  Guide.  . 

McDoNOGH  Monument. 

In  Lafayette  Square,  on  the  St.  Charles  street  side. 

John  McDonogh,  an  old  merchant  of  New  Orleans,  left  a 
large  portion  of  his  fortune  to  build  school-houses  in  New 
Orleans,  and  the  pupils  of  these  schools  erected  this  monument 
to  his  memory  on  December  28,  1898.  On  McDonogh  day 
every  year  the  children  cover  the  mound  with  flowers  in 
memory  of  their  benefactor.  The  column  is  surmounted  with  a 
large  bust  of  the  philanthropist,  by  Picarilli,  and  cost  $7,400. 

Lee  Monument. 

In  Lee  Circle  (formerly  Tivoli  Circle),  on  St.  Charles  street,  ten  squares 
from  Canal  street.  Take  cars  on  St.  Charles  street,  and  get  out  at  the  first 
turn  the  car  makes. 

Under  the  management  of  a  society  of  ladies,  several  enter- 
tainments were  given  to  raise  funds  to  erect  in  Lee  Circle,  a 
monument  to  General  Robert  E.  Lee,  the  celebrated  Confed- 
erate General;  it  was  determined  to  build  a  column  of  white 
marble,  surmounted  with  a  bronze  statue  of  Lee  fifteen  feet 
high.  The  foundations  of  the  column  were  composed  of  heavy 
piles  of  cypress,  driven  into  the  ground  by  steam  and  bolted 
together.  On  this,  bricks  were  laid  and  the  column,  with  a 
staircase,  lighted  by  openings  cut  in  the  stone,  was  erected  at  a 
cost  of  $40,000.  The  bronze  statue,  by  Doyle,  is  considered  a 
good  likeness  of  the  famous  Confederate  General.  The  monu- 
ment is  one  hundred  and  six  feet  eight  inches  high,  resting  on  a 
granite  base  forty-two  feet  square.  Height  of  mound,  twelve 
feet ;  base,  twelve  feet ;  column,  sixty  feet ;  die,  seven  feet  eight 
inches;  statue,  fifteen  feet;  diameter  of  mound,  one  hundred 
and  ninety  feet ;  diameter  of  column,  seven  feet ;  diameter  of 
die,  seven  feet  eight  inches. 

Battle  Monument. 

On  Battlefield,  below  the  United  States  Barracks.  Take  Dauphine  cars  to 
terminus  at  the  Slaughter  Houses  :  then  walk  half  a  mile  along  levee  to  the 
monument  grove. 

The  Louisiana  Legislature  made  an  appropriation  to  build  a 
monument  on  the  Battle  Field  of  New  Orleans,  and  a  plain 
white  marble  shaft  was  commenced.  After  attaining  about 
sixty  feet  in  height,  the  appropriation  gave  out,  and  the  monu- 
ment was  never  completed.  The  shaft  stands  near  the  river, 
and  has  a  spiral  staircase  within  it.    From  the  top  a  fine  view 


230  New  Orleans  Guide. 

is  to  be  had  of  Jackson's  great  field  of  victory,  and  it  marks 
the  spot  where  Jackson  stood  durinsr  the  battle  of  January  8, 
1815. 

Confederate  Monument. 

In  Greenwood  Cemetery,  on  the  Metairie  Kidge.  Take,  on  Canal  street,  the 
West  End  Railroad,  and  get  out  at  the  Ridge  Station. 

In  Greenwood  Cemetery,  on  the  Metairie  Ridge,  is  the  monu- 
ment erected  by  a  society  of  ladies,  at  a  cost  of  $10,000,  to  the 
memory  of  the  Confederate  soldiers.  The  monument  faces  the 
Metairie  Ridg'e  road  and  consists  of  a  mound,  beneath  which  are 
the  vaults  where  are  buried  the  remains  of  many  Confederate 
soldiers  who  died  in  prison  during  the  war.  The  top  of  the 
mound  is  reached  by  granite  steps,  and  in  the  centre  is  a  pedes- 
tal of  elegant  design,  on  which  stands  the  white  marble  statue 
of  a  Confederate  soldier  resting  on  his  gun.  Around  the  statue 
are  the  busts  of  Lee,  Stonewall  Jackson,  eJohnson,  and  Polk. 
On  the  Confederate  Decoration  Day  this  monument  is  always 
handsomely  decorated  with  tiowers. 

Washington  Artillery  Monument. 

In  the  centre  of  Metairie  Cemetery.  Take  West  End  Railroad  on  Canal 
street.     Get  out  at  the  Ridge  Station  and  cross  the  bridge  to  the  cemetery. 

The  battalion  of  Washington  Artillery,  rendered  so  famous 
during  the  civil  war  by  participating  in  all  the  great  battles  of 
Virginia,  having  taken  part  also  in  the  war  with  Mexico,  have 
erected  a  magnificent  mausoleum  in  the  centre  of  the  Metairie 
Cemetery.  The  monument  is  of  a  tasteful  design,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  statue  in  granite  of  a  cannoneer,  sponge  staff  in 
hand,  modelled  after  the  former  Colonel  of  the  battalion 
(Walton),  who  participated  in  all  the  campaigns  in  Mexico, 
Virginia,  and  Pennsylvania.  On  the  face  of  the  monument  is 
the  tiger 's  head,  the  emblem  of  the  organization  for  over  forty 
years,  and  around  the  sides,  are  engraved  the  names  of  the 
many  battles  in  which  the  command  took  part.  The  monument 
is  surrounded  by  gigantic  cannons,  half  embedded  in  the  earth, 
and  connected  by  chains. 

Army  of  Northern  Virginia. 

In  the  Metairie  Cemetery,  near  the  Lake. 

The  monument  of  the  Society  of  the  Army  of  Northern  Vir- 
ginia consists  of  a  column  surmounted  by  the  statue  of  a  Con- 


ARMY  NORTHERN  VIRGINIA  MONUMENT. 


232  New  Orleans  Guide. 

federate  soldier.    Below  are  large  burial  vaults  for  the  soldiers 
belonging  to  the  society. 

Army  of  the  Tennessee  Monument. 

Near  the  main  entrance  of  the  Metairie  Cemetery  is  the 
monument  of  the  Army  of  Tennessee,  of  which  so  many  Louis- 
ianians  were  members.  The  mound  is  surmounted  by  a  large 
equestrian  statue  of  General  Albert  Sidney  Johnston  as  he  ap- 
peared at  the  Battle  of  Shiloh  (Pittsburg  Landing).  In  the 
vault  below  are  the  remains  of  Generals  Johnston  and  Beaure- 
gard, with  suitable  epitaphs. 

Margaret's  Monument. 

In  Margaret  Park,  at  the  intersection  of  Camp  and  Prytania  streets. 

Margaret  Haughery  was  a  noble  and  charitable  woman  who 
had  all  her  life  devoted  herself  to  aiding  the  orphans.  Reared 
in  poverty,  she  had,  by  industry  in  selling  milk,  accumulated 
sufficient  means  to  purchase  a  large  bakery,  and  with  strict  at- 
tention to  this  business,  managed  in  a  few  years  to  make  a 
fortune.  This  she  devoted  to  the  care  of  the  orphans,  without 
regard  to  sex,  nationality,  or  religion.  At  her  death,  through 
the  exertions  of  Mr.  Horter,  a  popular  subscription  was  raised 
and  the  present  statue  and  park  dedicated  to  the  good 
woman's  memor,y.  The  statue  is  of  white  marble,  by  Doyle, 
and  represents  Margaret  seated  with  an  orphan  beside  her. 
This  is  the  first  statue  raised  in  America  in  honor  of  a  woman. 

14th  of  September  Monument. 

At  the  head  of  Canal  street,  on  the  spot  wherein  the  White 
League  of  Citizens,  on  September  14,  1874,  defeated  the  Radi- 
cal Republican  State  forces,  an  obelisk  has  been  raised  to  com- 
memorate the  victory  and  the  memory  of  those  who  fell  that 
day  . 

Italian  Monument. 

In  centre  of  old  St.  Louis  Cemetery  No.  1,  on  Basin  street,  three  blocks 
from  Canal  street.  Take  Dauphine  or  Esplanade  cars.  Get  out  at  Conti  street. 
Cemetery  open  from  0  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m. 

One  of  the  largest  and  most  magnificent  monuments  in  New 
Orleans  is  the  one  erected  at  a  cost  of  over  $50,000,  by  the 
Italian  Society,  in  the  old  St.  Louis  (No.  1)  Cemetery  on  Basin 
street.    Unfortunately  the  monument  is  surrounded  by  narrow 


234  New  Orleans  Guide. 

alleys,  but  from  its  great  height  it  is  easily  found  on  entering 
the  cemetery.  The  mausoleum,  of  white  marble,  is  built  in  the 
form  of  a  Maltese  cross,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Religion 
leaning  on  a  cross.  In  the  niches  are  life-size  statues  of  Italia 
and  her  children.  It  is  much  regretted  by  all  who  have  seen 
this  monument  that  it  is  not  placed  in  a  position  where  its 
majestic  proportions  could  be  better  appreciated. 

MINT. 

Corner  of  Esplanade  street  and  the  Levee.  Take  the  Levee  and  Barracks 
cars  in  front  of  Customhouse  or  the  cars  on  Bourbon  street.     Open  for  visitors 

The  United  States  Mint  occupies  the  site  of  old  Fort  St. 
Charles,  and  was  erected  by  the  Government  at  a  cost  of  $182,- 
000.  The  building  fronts  on  Esplanade  street,  the  former 
lower  line  of  fortifications,  and  is  bounded  in  the  rear  by  Bar- 
racks street,  so  named  from  having  been  the  site  of  the  old  bar- 
racks of  the  garrison.  The  Mint  is  capable  of  turning  out 
$5,000,000  per  month,  and  the  machinery  is  of  the  finest  kind. 
The  process  of  "making  money"  by  stamping  it  can  be  seen 
with  much  interest,  and  is  one  of  the  sights  of  the  town.  A 
polite  official  is  always  in  attendance  to  show  the  visitors 
through  the  several  departments.  The  efficient  Superintendent 
is  always  happy  to  have  the  Mint  and  its  workings  inspected. 
In  December,  1814,  General  Jackson  stood  on  this  site  before 
the  gate  of  Fort  St.  Charles  and  reviewed  his  army  as  they 
marched  to  meet  the  British.  In  1862,  Mumford  was  hung  by 
General  Butler  in  front  of  the  Mint,  between  the  two  centre 
pillars,  for  tearing  down  the  United  States  flag  from  the  roof 
of  this  building. 

MUSEUMS. 

At  Tulane  University,  St.  Charles  avenue.     Open  daily.     Free. 

Natural  History  Museum. 
A  large  and  interesting  collection. 

Museum  of  Arts. 
A  collection  of  paintings,  statuary,  carvings,  etc. 

Medical  Museum  . 

At  Richardson  Medical  School,  corner  Canai  and  Vlllere  streets. 

A  splendid  collection  of  models,  etc.,  well  worth  an  inspec- 
tion of  several  hours. 


r^.v>J-  '. 


!  t 


iff 


MARGARET    STATUE. 


236  New  Orleans  GuroE. 

MILITIA. 

The  Militia  of  the  city  is  well  organized  and  is  1200  strong, 
and  is  attached  to  the  "First  Division  of  Louisiana  National 
Guards, ' '  commanded  by  a  Major-General.  According  to  law 
all  militia  men  are  exempt  from  jury  duty. 

NAVY  YARD. 

The  New  Orleans  Naval  Station  is  located  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  below  Algiers  (Fifteenth  Ward,  Canal  street  ferry),  on 
the  Mississippi  river,  and  is  designed  to  be  in  the  future  one  of 
the  principal  navy  yards  of  the  United  States,  having  the  ad- 
vantage of  deep  water  and  of  fresh  water,  which  prevents  the 
bottoms  of  vessels  becoming  foul  with  barnacles.  The  second 
largest  floating  dock  in  the  world  is  moored  in  front  of  the  yard. 
It  is  constructed  of  steel  and  cost  $810,000.  The  Naval  Station 
wa^  formally  opened  November  6,  1901,  when  a  grand  cele- 
bration of  the  event  took  place  under  the  presidency  of  Gov- 
ernor Heard  of  Louisiana!  An  order  of  the  Secretary  of  the 
Navy  allows  merchant  vessels  to  use  the  dock.  The  first  vessel 
docked  was  the  battleship  Illinois  in  1902.  The  big  dock  is 
well  worth  a  visit  and  when  near  by  its  huge  proportions  are 
more  appreciated  than  from  a  distance. 

Description  of  Dock. 

The  dock,  which  was  installed  in  1901,  is  one  of  the  modern 
wonders  in  naval  architecture. 

There  is  nothing  else  like  it  afloat.  It  can  raise  a  15,000-ton 
battleship  while  the  floor  of  the  dock  still  remains  two  feet 
above  the  water  level,  according  to  the  government  rule.  It 
can  raise  an  18,000-ton  battleship  with  the  dock  floor  even 
Avith  the  water  level.  The  dock  is  technically  described  as 
being  525  feet  in  length  over  all,  while  its  breadth  is 
exactly  126  feet  2  7-10  inches.  The  width  between  the  sides  is 
100  feet.  The  entire  height  of  the  sides,  from  their  bottoms, 
which  are  submerged  to  the  tops,  is  55  feet.  The  depth  of  the 
pontoons,  or  what  the  inexperienced  might  call  the  hulls  of 
the  dock,  is  17  feet  6  inches.  The  greatest  draft  of  the  dock 
is  49  feet  6  inches.  There  are  three  pontoons,  which  form  its 
floor  and  also,  with  the  sides,  give  it  buoyancy.  The  middle 
pontoon  is  the  largest,  being  242  feet  long,  and  the  end  pon- 
toons are  each  141  feet  3-8  inch  in  length.     The  walls  are  395 


14tii  septembj.r  montment. 


238  New  Orleans  Guide. 

feet  5-8  inch  lon^  and  are  9  feet  in  width  at  the  top  and  13 
feet  at  the  bottom.  The  pontoons  and  sides  are  divided  into 
forty  water-tight  compartments,  which  enable  the  dock  to  be 
completely  under  the  control  of  the  dock  master,  who  can 
make  it  assume  any  position  required  to  dock  a  vessel.  It  has 
261  keel  blocks,  and  they  are  movable,  so  that  they  can  be 
readily  adjusted.  The  weight  of  the  steel  in  the  dock  is  5865 
tons,  and  the  weight  of  the  dock  equipment  is  1000  tons,  mak- 
ing a  total  weight  of  6865  tons.  The  cost  of  the  dock  complete 
was  $810,000. 

The  stability  of  the  structure,  according  to  the  engineer's 
figures,  is  something  remarkable.  Carrying  a  15,000-ton  bat- 
tleship two  feet  above  the  water,  it  will  cause  her  stability  to 
be  fifteen  or  twenty  times  as  great  as  that  of  a  ship  in  the 
water.  The  numerous  compartments  add  to  the  steadiness  of 
the  dock,  for,  if  they  were  few  in  number,  the  water  in  them 
when  the  dock  was  submerged,  or  partly  so,  would  splash  about 
and  cause  considerable  motion  to  the  structure. 

When  it  is  necessary  to  dock  a  vessel  water  is  admitted  to 
the  compartments  through  sixteen  valves,  each  sixteen  inches 
in  diameter,  and  it  requires  about  an  hour  to  sink  the  dock  so 
that  craft  can  enter  it.  After  the  dock  is  sufficiently  deep  in 
the  water  the  vessel  enters,  and  having  been  accurately  ad- 
justed, the  water  is  pumped  out  of  the  compartment  by  means 
of  eight  pumps,  which  are  driven  by  four  engines  that  have 
four  boilers  of  the  water-tube  type  and  of  135  horsepower 
each  to  supply  them  with  steam.  The  pumping  apparatus  is 
so  arranged  that  either  engine  can  steam  from  either  boiler, 
and  in  case  there  is  a  breakdown  on  one  side  of  the  dock  the 
pair  of  pumps  on  the  other  could  do  all  the  pumping.  It 
takes  about  three  hours  and  a  half  to  raise  the  dock.  The 
pumps  also  operate  a  line  of  hose,  which  is  employed  to  wash 
the  slime  from  the  hulls  of  vessels  that  are  docked.  This 
is  quite  a  task,  for  the  amount  of  fouling  which  is  washed 
from  the  sides  of  a  large  ship  is  considerable,  and  after  it  has 
been  cleaned  the  stuff  has  also  to  be  washed  from  the  floor  of 
the  dock,  otherwise  the  men  could  not  work  about  the  craft. 

Although  a  great  number  of  shores  are  not  used  to  support 
the  vessel  in  the  dock,  as  the  American  plan  of  docking  craft 
provides  for  supporting  them  at  the  bottom  on  each  side  of  the 
keel,  this  dock  has  four  mechanical  side  shores  for  centering 
vessels  accurately  in  it.     They  are   marked    with    feet    and 


240  New  Orleans  Guide. 

inches,  so  that  the  beam  of  the,  vessel  being  known  the  shores 
on  one  side  can  be  adjusted  to  the  proper  length;  the  vessel 
is  then  run  into  the  dock  and  set  against  the  two  shores  so 
adjusted,  after  which  the  other  two  shores  are  pushed  up 
against  her,  holding  her  firmly  in  position.  This  is  done  be- 
fore the  vessel  is  lifted.  If  a  craft  should  be  listed  the  com- 
partments on  one  side  of  the  dock  are  emptied  sufficiently  to 
enable  her  to  enter  the  dock  parallel  with  its  sides.  She  is 
then  adjusted  in  position  by  means  of  the  shores,  and  the  dock 
is  lifted  to  an  upright  position  and  the  vessel  also  assumes  the 
same  attitude.  The  dock  has  adjustable  bilge  blocks  and  keel 
blocks,  which  can  be  concentrated  if  required  for  smaller 
vessels.  The  engines  and  pumps  are  in  the  side  walls,  from 
the  tops  of  which  the  smokestacks  project. 

Should  a  ship  draw  one  or  two  feet  more  of  water  than  the 
capacity  of  the  dock,  as  stated,  the  structure  could  be  made  to 
float  with  the  deck  awash,  and  the  tops  of  the  walls  are  ordin- 
arily sufficiently  high  above  the  water  to  permit  the  dock  to 
be  sunk  the  additional  distance  necessary  to  take  in  the  craft. 
Another  remarkable  fact  concerning  the  dock  is  that  she  is 
able  to  dock  herself  for  cleaning  and  painting.  The  three 
pontoons  are  connected  with  the  sides  by  means  of  joints  that 
are  bolted  together.  There  are  two  sets  of  these  joints,  one 
above  and  one  below.  Supposing  it  to  be  necessary  to  clean 
and  paint  the  bottom  of  the  centre  pontoon,  the  joints  are  dis- 
conected  so  as  to  release  it  from  the  side  walls.  Then  the  two 
other  pontoons  and  the  walls  are  sunk  until  the  lower  joints 
of  the  center  pontoon  are  on  a  level  with  its  upper  joints  in 
the  side  walls. 

The  lower  joints  of  the  centre  pontoons  are  coupled  with 
the  upper  joints  in  the  side  walls,  after  which  the  water  is 
pumped  out  of  the  other  pontoons,  and  the  whole  structure  is 
thus  raised  until  the  centre  pontoon  stands  away  up  out  of 
the  water,  and  it  can  then  be  easily  cleaned  and  painted.  The 
bottoms  of  the  side  walls  can  be  reached  by  pumping  all  the 
water  out  of  the  compartments  on  the  side  of  the  dock  which 
it  is  desired  to  raise  and  then  filling  those  on  the  other  side. 
The  result  of  this  is  to  list  the  dock  so  that  one  side  of  it  stands 
clear  out  of  water.  The  object  of  this  was  to  be  enabled  to 
clean  the  dock,  otherwise  it  could  not  have  been  done,  as  there 
was  no  other  dock  large  enough  to  hold  it. 

The  designs  of  the  dock  were  originally  made  by  Messrs. 


242  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Clark  &  Standfield  of  London,  who,  in  a  publication  upon  dry 
docks,  acknowledge  that  the  American  system  of  docking  ves- 
sels is  the  best.  The  designs  were  afterward  modified  at  Spar- 
rows Point  to  conform  to  American  practice.  The  dock  is 
furnished  with  electric  lights,  water  supply,  etc.,  and  has 
comfortable  accommodations  for  eight  men.  It  is  moored 
to  the  shore  by  heavy  cables,  and  from  the  openings  in  the 
walls  large  booms  that  form  connection  with  the  shore.  The 
pointed  ends  of  the  forward  and  rear  pontoons  will  cause  the 
dock  to  be  little  affected  by  the  current. 

It  is  stated  by  experts  that  floating  dry  docks  possess  sev- 
eral advantages  over  the  familiar  form  of  timber  dry  dock, 
one  of  them  being  that  the  floating  dry  dock  is  often  less  ex- 
pensive to  build  and  another  that  it  has  the  quality  of  porta- 
bility and  can  be  towed  from  place  to  place,  as  occasion  may 
demand,  for  its  use.  Although  the  present  dock  has  cost 
$810,000,  the  big  timber  dock  at  the  League  Island  Navy  Yard, 
of  equal  capacity,  cost  $749,000,  but  that  was  exclusive  of  the 
cost  of  the  land  the  latter  occupies. 

The  dock  was  constructed  under  the  Act  of  Congress  of 
May,  1898,  and  a  plant  was  especially  built  for  the  work  at 
Sparrows  Point.  The  entire  construction  was  under  the  su- 
pervision of  Sven  Anderson,  superintendent  of  the  dock  de- 
partment, and  of  General  Manager  A.  G.  Wilson  of  the  ma- 
rine department. 

NEWSPAPERS. 

Times-Democrat,  Daily  (Democratic)  -Largest  circulation, 
office  320  Camp  street. 

New  Orleans  Picayune  (Conservative-Democratic)— An  old 
and  favorite  family  journal,  with  a  large  circulation,  office  326 
Camp  street. 

Daily  States  (State  organ,  Democratic) —Evening  journal, 
extensive  city  circulation,  406  Camp  street. 

German  Gazette   (Democratic)   Daily— 534  Poydras  street. 

L'Abeille  (The  Bee),  ( Conservative-Democratic) —Leading 
French  journal  of  the  State,  323  Chartres  street. 

City  Item  (Independent)— Evening  journal,  336  Camp 
street. 

Daily  News— 4:4:5  Camp  street. 


Sights  op  the  City.  243 

Weeklies. 

Christian  Advocate— Organ  of  Methodist  Episcopal  Church, 
South. 

South-Western  Christian  Advocate— Orgdm  of  the  Method- 
ist Episcopal  Church,  North. 

South-Western  Presbyterian— Orgam  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church. 

Morning  Star — Organ  of  the  Roman  Catholics. 
.  Associated  Press  Office— No.  618  Commercial  Place. 

ORANGE  GROVES. 

Around  the  city  are  situated  extensive  groves  of  oranges. 
The  largest  are  those  opposite  Carrollton  (7th  Dist.)  on  Nine 
Mile  Point,  and  those  below  Algiers.  Take  St.  Charles  avenue 
car  to  Carrollton  and  thence  cross  the  river  by  the  large  skiff 
ferry. 

Oranges  grow  to  perfection  in  Louisiana  and  are  becoming 
a  very  profitable  crop.  The  extreme  cold  weather  often  in- 
jures the  trees  fatally,  but  the  early  frosts  tend  to  sweeten  the 
juice  and  impart  a  delicious  flavor  to  the  fruit.  In  the  latter 
part  of  February  the  trees  commence  blooming  and  are  cov- 
ered with  myriads  of  little  white  star-shaped  flowers  with 
bright  yellow  stamens.  These  flowers  emit  a  sweet  perfume 
as  powerful  as  the  night  blooming  jasmine.  The  petals  of  the 
flowers  fall,  leaving  the  yellow  stamens  which  detach  them- 
selves and  leave  a  little  ball ;  this  gradually  grows  larger  and 
becomes,  in  November,  the  orange  ripe  for  eating.  The  petals 
of  the  flowers  are  gathered  and  boiled  with  sugar  and  strained 
to  make  an  orange  flower  syrup  much  prized  by  the  Creoles. 
More  sugar  is  added  to  the  residue  of  the  straining,  and  sugar 
cakes  called  ''conserve"  filled  with  the  candied  blossoms  are 
made.  A  tea  made  of  the  leaves  of  the  tree  is  much  used  by 
yellow  fever  patients  to  produce  perspiration  and  a  soothing 
effect.  From  the  flowers  is  distilled  orange  flower  water  and 
from  the  orange  skin  Curacoa  cordial  is  manufactured.  The 
ordinary  orange  trees  are  divided  into  two  classes,  the  sour 
and  the  sweet,  which  are  distinguished  by  the  leaves  and  the 
size  of  the  blossoms.  The  former  are  planted  for  ornament  and 
the  latter  for  the  fruit.     There  are  many  varieties  which  have 


244  New  Orleans  Guide. 

been  brought  from  various  parts  of  the  world,  the  color  of  the 
skin  and  the  juice  differing  slightly.  Mandarin  orange  trees 
also  thrive  and  the  trees  are  dwarf,  producing  a  small,  fiat- 
shaped,  very  sweet  orange,  with  a  skin  that  easily  peels,  and 
with  a  juice  of  a  peculiar  though  pleasant  taste.  Orange 
trees  are  planted  from  the  seed  in  nurseries,  and  when 
three  years  old  are  transplanted  to  the  groves;  they  com- 
mence to  bear  in  the  seventh  year  of  their  growth.  The 
orange  flourishes  best  on  the  river  bank  protected  from  the 
cold  north  winds  by  the  water  and  especially  in  the  parish 
of  Plaquemines,  below  the  city,  where  there  are  groves  of 
several  miles  in  extent.  A  full  liearing  tree  will  produce  over 
two  thousand  oranges,  which  bring  from  $5  to  $17  per  barre] 
of  250  oranges. 

PARISH  PRISON. 

On  Gravier  street.     For  admission  to  inspect  this  prison,  apply  to  Captain 
in  charge. 

The  Parish  Prison,  or  County  Jail,  a  large  building  in  the 
rear  of  the  Criminal  Court  Building  on  Tulane  avenue,  is 
used  as  a  prison  for  the  city.  This  institution  is  under  th(; 
charge  of  the  Criminal  Sheriff  of  the  Parish  of  Orleans  and 
a  Captain  of  the  Prison.  Within  its  walls  prisoners  sentenced 
to  imprisonment  for  short  terms  are  confined,  and  also  prison- 
ers prior  to  removal  to  the  State  Penitentiary  at  Baton  Rouge. 
In  the  cupola  hall  are  the  condemned  cells,  where  prisoners 
under  sentence  of  death  are  confined  before  their  execution. 
The  prisoner,  after  sentence,  is  taken  from  the  court  and 
placed  in  one  of  these  double-grated  cells  which  he  does  not 
leave  except  to  go  to  the  chapel,  until  he  is  led  to  the  scaffold. 
Executions  were  formerly  public,  but  in  accordance  with  law 
they  now  are  private.  On  the  day  appointed  by  the  Gov- 
ernor, the  condemned  is  conducted  to  one  of  the  inner  courts 
and  executed  by  hanging.  Adjoining  the  prison  is  a  Precinct 
station  of  the  city  police. 

PARKS  AND  SQUARES. 

Jackson  Square. 

On  Levee,  opposite  Cathedral.    Take  Levee  cars,  opposite  Customhouse. 

The  handsome  square  situated  in  front  of  the  Cathedral  is 
known  as  ''Jackson  Square."     In  former  times,  before  the 


246  New  Orleans  Guide. 

grounds  were  transformed  into  a  garden,  the  square  was 
called  the  ''Place  d'Armes,"  and  served,  as  in  the  cities  of 
Europe,  as  a  parade  ground  for  the  troops  of  the  garrison. 
In  the  centre  of  the  square  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  General 
Andrew  Jackson  (see  Monuments),  after  whom  the  place  was 
named.  In  former  times  a  flagstaff  stood  in  the  centre  of  the 
square,  and  from  it,  at  different  epochs  in  the  history  of  the 
colony,  floated  the  royal  banners  of  France  and  Spain,  which 
were  succeeded  by  the  flag  of  the  Union.  This  square  has 
been  the  scene  of  many  important  events,  for  on  this  spot  the 
different  transfers  of  the  Province  of  Louisiana  have  taken 
place.  On  August  16th,  1769,  Captain-General  O'Reilly,  the 
Spanish  Commissioner,  in  the  presence  of  the  royal  troops  of 
Spain,  received  he  transfer  of  the  Province  of  Louisiana  from 
France  through  the  French  Governor,  Aubry.  The  banner  of 
France  was  lowered  and  that  of  Spain  saluted  by  amid  salvos 
of  artillery.  On  November  30th,  1803,  the  Spanish  Commis- 
sioners transferred  the  Province,  with  less  ceremony,  to  Mon- 
sieur de  Laussat,  the  representative  of  France.  The  flag  of 
Spain  was  lowered  and  that  of  France  raised  in  its  stead.  On 
December  20th,  1803,  M.  de  Laussat  transferred  the  country 
to  the  United  States,  and  the  new  flag  was  saluted  with  cheers 
and  salvos  of  artillery.  After  the  battle  of  New  Orleans  it 
was  determined  to  celebrate  the  victory  by  a  "Te  Deum"  at 
the  Cathedral.  Great  preparations  were  made,  and  General 
Jackson,  the  victorious  general,  was  met  at  the  gate  of  the 
Square,  near  the  Levee,  by  committees  of  citizens,  and  es- 
corted to  the  Cathedral  through  an  avenue  of  children  (each 
representing  a  State  of  the  Union),  who  scattered  flowers  in 
his  path.  At  the  door  of  the  Cathedral  the  clergy,  in  their 
sacerdotal  robes,  presented  to  the  General  an  address,  the  cere- 
monies terminating  by  a  grand  ''Te  Deum"  and  a  service  of 
thanksgiving. 

The  square  was  formerly  surrounded  on  the  upper  and 
lower  sides  by  a  row  of  old  Spanish  buildings,  which  belonged 
to  the  Baroness  de  Pontalba,  the  grand-daughter  of  the 
founder  of  the  Cathedral.  The  Baroness  destroyed  these 
buildings,  and  on  the  spot  erected  the  present  rows  of  dwell- 
ings with  shops  beneath.  At  the  same  time,  at  her  own  ex- 
pense, she  improved  the  square  by  laying  it  out  in  the  French 
style  of  gardening.     The  Cathedral  (see  Churches)  has  un- 


a 
§ 

I— t 
O 

d 

W 
;> 

I 

> 

w 
o 


248  New  Orleans  Guide. 

dergone  many  changes,  but  the  Cabildo  Buildings  (upper  one) 
has  remained  unchanged  except  the  roof.     These  buildings 
are  now  occupied  by  the  Courts,  and  are  of  a  heavy  style  of 
architecture.     The  upper  building,  formerly  the  ''Cabildo," 
or  City  Hall  of  the  Spaniards,  is  used  by  the  Supreme  Court 
of  the  State,  and  as  a  police  station.     In  its  principal  hall  the 
deeds  and  proces  verbal  of  the  successive  changes  of  govern 
ment  from  Spain  to  France  and  from  France  to  the  United 
States  were  signed,  and  the  proclamations  were  made  from  ts 
balcony.  When  Lafayette  made  a  tour  of  the  United  States,;he 
general  was  lodged  and  entertained  by  the  city  in  this  build- 
ing.    Opposite  this,  on  the  corner  of  Chartres  and  St.  ^eter 
streets,  is  a  low  and  massive  building,  which,  during  th'  colo- 
nial days,  was  the  principal  hotel  of  the  city,  and  i^ay  be 
called  the   oldest   hotel   building   in   the   Mississippi  Valley. 
Jackson  Square,  on  Sunday  afternoons,  between  four  ^nd  sun- 
set, is  a  great  resort  for  the  children,  and  the  stra-ger  then 
has  a  good  opportunity  to  see  the  different  types  ofthe  popu- 
lation.    The  stranger  will  notice  many  trees  and  scrubs,  such 
as  the  orange,  banana,  Hg,  lemon,  and  palm  trees  not  seen  in 
the  North,  but  which  flourish  here  in  the  open^ir  and  bear 
fruit. 

Beauregard  (Congo)  Square. 

On  Rampart  street,   five  squares  back  of  the  ^thedral. 

Beauregard  Square,  named  in  honor  of^he  Confederate 
General,  and  formerly  called  Congo  Squa-S  also  sometimes 
called  "Place  d'Armes,"  was  formerly  t^^  site  of  Fort  St. 
Ferdinand.  This  square  has  a  fountain  ^  the  centre,  and  is 
used  as  a  parade  ground.  During  slave  t^es,  a  cannon  which 
stood  in  the  centre  of  the  square,  was  f^^d  by  the  police  at  9 
p.  m..  after  which  any  slave  found  or  the  streets  without  a 
pass  from  his  master,  was  arrested.  ''^^  square  derived  its 
name  of  "Congo"  from  the  fact  th^,  in  former  times,  the 
negroes,  who  were  mostly  from  Cor^^  nsed  to  congregate  in 
this  square  on  Sunday  and  dance  s^ne  of  their  native  dances 
to  the  music  of  a  rude  drum  and  s  ne  bones. 

Lafayette  QUAre. 

Opposite  city  Hall,  between  S  Charles  and  Camp  streets. 

This  square,  or  park,  opposi  the  City  Hall,  on  St.  Charles 
street,  was  called  "  Laf  ayett' ^^i^are "  in  honor  of  General 


250  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Lafayette,  of  Revolutionary    fame.     The  square  is  laid  out 
with  walks  and  avenues  of  handsome  shade  trees  and  beds  of 
flowers.     In  the  centre  is  a  statue  of  Henry  Clay  by  Hart, 
Powers'  statue  of  Franklin,  and  Picarelli's  monument  of  Mc- 
Donogh  (see Monuments)  .Near  one  of  the  corners  of  the  square 
is  a  stone,  placed  there  by  the  U.  S.  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey 
officers.     This  stone  is  located  exactly  latitude  29°  56'  58'', 
and  longitude  90°  04'  09"  west.     It  is,  therefore,  three  min- 
utes (equal  to  5,542  metres,  or  about  31/2  miles)  north  of  th« 
Great  Pyramid  of  Egypt,  the  two  points  being  separated  lY 
120°  4'  of  longitude :  about  11,714  kilometres,  or  7,279  statite 
miles.     On  one  side  of  the  square  is  the  City  Hall  (see  City 
Hall),  and  on  the  other  the  First  Presbyterian  Church  vsee 
Churches) . 

Lee  Place. 

Intersection  of  St.  Charles  and  Howard  avenue,  nine  squares  tr^  Canal 
street. 

At  the  intersection  of  St.  Charles  and  Howard  avenues, 
four  squares    above  the  City    Hall,  is    Lee    Place   formerly 
known  as  "Tivoli  Circle."     A  handsome  monum<iit,  consist- 
ing of  a  white  marble  column,    surmounted   by^^  statue  of 
General  Robert  E.  Lee  in  bronze,  has  been  erect4  in  the  cen- 
ter of  this  park  (see  Monuments).    At  the  er^  of  Howard 
avenue  is  the  ''New  Basin,"  which  is  conne^ed  with  Lake 
Pontchartrain  by  a  canal  six  miles  long.  This  anal,  navigable 
for  schoners  and  small  steamboats,  belongs  to^^he  State,  and  is 
used  to  bring  lumber  and  building  materij^s  from  different 
points  on  the  lake  coast.    St.  Charles  avenu.  which  above  Lee 
Place  widens  into  a  broad  avenue,  is  one  of  ^^  principal  drives 
of  the  city,  and  extends  five  miles  to  Carrriton,  a  small  suburb 
of  New  Orleans,  and  to  the  ''Audubon  prk." 

Margaret  Plac^ 

At  the  Intersection  of  Camp  and  Prytanla  s^®**-  Take  Prjtania  or  Mag- 
azine cars. 

Margaret  place  is  a  pretty  little  ^^^^  laid  out  with  walks, 
shrubbery  and  flower  beds.  In  t^  centre  is  a  white  marble 
statue  of  good  Margaret  Haughe-'j  the  friend  of  the  orphan 
(see  Monuments). 


Sights  of  the  City.  251 

Coliseum  Park. 

Between  Camp  and  Coliseum  streets,  and  extending  from  Melpomene  to 
Race  streets.     Magazine  or  Coliseum  cars  pass  up  on  each  side  of  this  Park. 

Coliseum  Park  is  an  irregular  shaped  area  between  Camp 
and  Magazine  streets,  and  is  surrounded  by  handsome  resi- 
dences. The  park  is  laid  out  with  avenues  of  shade  trees,  and 
its  velvety  lawns  are  a  favorite  resort  for  children  of  the 
neighborhood. 

Annunciation  Square. 

On  Race  street.     The  Annunciation  cars  encircle  the  Square. 

The  square  was  donated  to  the  city,  and  it  was  the  inten- 
tion of  the  donor  that  a  church  should  be  erected  in  the 
centre  in  honor  of  the  Annunciation  to  the  Virgin  Mary  that 
she  should  give  birth  to  the  Saviour.  It  is  laid  out  with 
lawns  and  avenues  and  is  often  used  for  military  parades. 
On  the  river  side  are  St.  Michael's  Church  (Roman  Catholic) 
and  the  large  cotton  presses,  where  cotton  is  stored  and  com- 
pressed for  shipment. 

Washington  Square. 

On  Elysian  Fields  street.     Take  Dauphine  cars. 

The  favorite  park  of  the  lower  part  of  the  city  is  Wash- 
ington Square,  a  pleasant  and  well  kept  park  with  a  fountain 
in  the  centre,  flowers  and  walks  shaded  by  luxuriant  rows  of 
live  oaks. 

Clay  Square. 

Between  Second  and  Third  streets.  The  Annunciation  cars  pass  on  each 
side  of  the  Square. 

Clay  Square  is  a  plain  but  well  kept  park,  with  avenues  of 
large  oaks  and  other  trees. 

Morris  Park. 

Washington  Avenue  Shellroad,  between  Howard  and  Freret  streets. 

Morris  Park  has  been  opened  during  the  past  few  years, 
and  is  an  attractive  place  and  the  largest  in  the  city. 

Audubon  Park. 

Between  the  river  and  St.  Charles  avenue.  Take  St.  Charles  or  the  Col- 
iseum. Magazine,  Prytania  or  Tchoupitoulas  lines  of  cars. 

The  upper  City  Park,  formerly  the  Exposition  grounds, 
contains  249  acres  and  was  much  embellished  by  the  Bxposi- 


252  New  Orleans  Guide. 

tion  managers,  and  was  subsequently  named  ''Audubon 
Park,"  in  honor  of  the  Louisiana  naturalist,  John  James 
Audubon.  This  park  was  originally  the  sugar  plantation 
of  Etienne  Bore,  who  introduced  sugar  cane  cultivation  in 
Louisiana,  and  made  the  first  crop  of  sugar  on  this  site.  Th-? 
land,  after  several  changes  of  ownership,  finally  belonged  to 
the  Marquis  de  Circe  Foucher,  by  whose  heirs  it  was  sold  to 
the  City  of  New  Orleans  for  a  park.  The  groves  of  venerable 
moss-grown  live  oaks  of  gigantic  size  and  the  huge  conserva- 
tory, one  of  the  largest  in  the  world  (about  300  feet  long), 
filled  with  palms  of  several  species,  coffee  and  spice  trees, 
towering  cocoanut  trees  and  other  delicate  tropical  plants, 
should  be  visited.  In  the  Park  is  the  Experimental  Sugar 
Station. 

City  Park. 

On  City  Park  avenue,  near  Canal  street.  Take  Canal  oars  to  the  Metaiiie 
Rid.e:e,  or  take  Esplanade  cars  on  Canal  street  to  the  Bayou  Bridge,  thence  to 
Park. 

The  Old  City  Park  contains  160  acres  of  land  and  has  been 
much  improved.  A  grove  of  gigantic  live  oak  trees,  such  as 
are  rarely  seen,  occupies  a  portion  of  the  park,  and  their 
branches  are  loaded  with  the  long,  gray  Spanish  moss,  which 
grows  so  luxuriantly  in  the  South.  The  grove,  usually  called 
' '  The  Oaks, ' '  was  for  many  years  the  favorite  dueling  ground 
of  the  city,  and  the  old  trees  have  witnessed  many  desperate 
combats.  The  grounds  were  formerly  a  part  of  the  Allard 
plantation,  and  the  tomb  of  one  of  the  Allards  is  under  a 
gigantic  oak.  The  park  was  also  the  home  of  Chevalier,  the 
husband  of  the  Princess  Charlotte  of  Brunswick,  whose  roman- 
tic life  is  described  so  graphically  in  Gayarre's  History  of 
Louisiana. 

POLICE. 

The  police  of  the  city  is  well  organized  under  the  orders  of 
the  Mayor  and  a  Chief  of  Police.  At  the  Central  Station, 
corner  Tulane  avenue  and  Basin  streets,  are  the  headquarters 
of  the  Chief  and  his  corps  of  detectives.  To  these  parties  all 
complaints  must  be  made  and  they  will  receive  prompt  atten- 
tion. There  are  four  Recorders'  Courts,  before  which  are 
tried  all  cases  of  violation  of  city  ordinances.    When  the  cases 


Sights  of  the  City.    *  253 

are  of  this  kind  the  offenders  are  punished  by  fine,  or  impris- 
onment in  the  House  of  Detention,  but  all  cases  involving  a 
crime  are  sent  to  the  City  and  District  Criminal  Courts. 

Chief  of  Police— Office,  Criminal  Court  Building,  Tulane 
avenue  and  Basin  streets. 

Detective  Headquarters— Office,  Criminal  Court  Build- 
ing, Tulane  avenue,  between  Basin  and  Franklin  streets. 

Property  Clerk— Office,  Criminal  Court  Building,  Tulane 
avenue,  between  Basin  and  Franklin  streets. 

City  Coroner— Office,  Criminal  Court  Building,  Tulane 
avenue,  between  Basin  and  Franklin  streets. 

City  Surgeon— Office,  Criminal  Court  Building,  Tulane 
avenue,  between  Basin  and  Franklin  streets. 

Recorders^  Court. 

First — Criminal  Court  Building,  Tulane  avenue. 
Second— No.  735  Elysian  Fields  street. 
Third— Magazine  street,  near  Napoleon  avenue. 
Fourth— No.  4313  Magazine  street. 
Fifth— No.  8007  Hampson  street. 
Sixth— No.  219  Morgan  street  (Algiers). 

Police  Precincts. 

First  Precinct— Bounded  by  Canal,  Howard  avenue,  land 
boundaries  of  Eleventh  Precinct  and  S.  Broad  street.  Station 
house,  Criminal  Court  Building,  Tulane  avenue. 

Second  Precinct— Bounded  by  Howard  avenue.  Felicity 
road,  land  boundaries  of  Eleventh  Precinct  and  S.  Broad 
street.    Station  house.  No.  1403  Chippewa  street. 

Third  Precinct— Bounded  by  Canal,  Esplanade,  N.  Ram- 
part and  land  boundaries  of  Eleventh  Precinct.  Station 
house,  713  Chartres  street,  near  the  Cathedral. 

Fourth  Precinct— Bounded  by  Canal,  N.  Rampart,  Es- 
planade and  N.  Broad  streets.  Station  house,  No.  1304  St. 
Peter  street. 

Fifth  Precinct— Bounded  by  Esplanade  avenue,  river, 
lower  limits,  and  rear  of  the  city  including  Milneburg. 
Station  house,  No.  735  Elysian  Fields  street. 

Sixth  Precinct— Bounded  by  Felicity  street  and  Louisiana 


254  New  Obleans  Guide. 

avenue,  land  boundaries  of  Eleventh  Precinct  and  S.  Broad 
street.    Station  house,  No.  2235  Rousseau  street. 

Seventh  Precinct— Louisiana  avenue,  Park  avenue,  river 
and  S.  Broad  street.    Station  house.  No.  4313  Magazine  street. 

Eighth  Precinct— Fifth  District,  with  Gretna  as  sub- 
precinct.    Station  house.  No.  225  Morgan  street. 

Ninth  Precinct— Bounded  by  Park  avenue,  upper  city 
limits,  river  and  woods.    Station  house,  8007  Hampson  street. 

Tenth  Precinct— Bounded  by  N.  and  S.  Broad,  Gentilly, 
Lake  and  17th  Street  Canal.  Station  house.  New  Basin  and 
Metairie  Road. 

Eleventh  Precinct— Bounded  by  river  front,  from  Har- 
mony to  Louisa  streets.    Station  house,  foot  of  Canal  street. 

Twelfth  Precinct— Bounded  by  S.  Franklin,  New  Basin, 
Toledano,  out  Toledano  to  S.  Rocheblave,  Washington  avenue 
to  S.  Carrollton  avenue,  to  upper  side  of  New  Basin  and  S. 
Franklin.    Station  house,  S.  Robertson  and  St.  Andrew  streets. 

PRIVATE  POLICE. 

There  are  two  or  three  private  police  forces  in  the  city,  with 
detective  agencies  attached.  These  private  police  watch 
houses,  inspect  the  grounds  of  the  residents  during  the  night, 
guard  freight  on  landings,  and  are  useful  in  a  variety  of  ways 
to  the  general  public  who  employs  them. 

POST=OFFICE. 

Corner  of  Canal  and  Decatur  streets. 

The  Post-Office  is  located  on  the  ground  floor  of  the  Custom 
House,  corner  Canal  and  Decatur  streets.  At  various  corners 
throughout  the  city  are  letter-boxes,  and  letters  are  delivered 
by  letter-carriers  several  times  a  day.  The  Post-Office  is  never 
closed.  Sundays,  general  delivery,  carriers'  and  box  depart- 
ment and  stamp  department,  open  10  a.  m.  to  12  m.  Money 
order  and  registry  department :  Registry,  9  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m. ; 
money  order,  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.,  Sundays  excepted. 


Sights  op  the  City.  255 

Postage  and  Money  Order  Rates. 

Letters. — Domestic,  Canada  and  Mexico,  2  cents  per  ounce ;  Foreign,  5 
cents  per  half  ounce. 

Transient  Newspapers,  Magazines,  or  Periodicals  issued  monthly. — Domes- 
tic, 1  cent  for  4  ounces  ;  Foreign,  1  cent  for  2  ounces.  Domestic  must  be 
registered  as  second-class  matter. 

Books  and  other  Printed  Matter. — Domestic,  1  cent  for  2  ounces  ;  Foreign, 
1   cent  for  2  ounces. 

Merchandise  and  Samples. — Domestic.   1  cent  for  1  ounce. 

Registration. — Domestic,   10  cents  ;    Foreign,   10  cents. 

Samples  of  Merchandise  for  Canada  same  as  United  States,  and  must  have 
no  saleable  value.  Other  Canauian  Postal  Rates  are  generally  the  same  as  the 
Domestic  rates  of  the  United  States. 

DOMEoi'IC    rates. 

WHEN  PAYABLE  IN  CANADA^  CUBA  AND  THE  PHILIPPINES  : 

The  Domestic  form  must  be  used  for  these  Orders. 

For  Order  not  exceeding  $2.50 3  cents 

From  $2.50  to  $5 5  cents 

Over  $5  to  $10 8  cents 

"     $10  to  $20 10  cents 

"     $20  to  $30 30  cents 

"     $30  to  $40 15  cents 

"     $410  to  $50 18  cents 

"     $50  to  $60 .  .20  cents 

"     $60  to  $75 25  cents 

"     $75   to   $100 30  cents 

intermediary  rates. 

WHEN    PAYABLE    IN    CANADA^    CUBA    AND    THE    PHILIPPINES  : 

Use    the  International   form   for   these    Orders. 

For  Order  not  exceeding  $10 5  cents 

From  $10  to  $20 10  cents 

Over  $20  to  $30 15  cents 

"     $30  to  $40 20  cents 

"     $40  to  $50 25  cents 

"     $50  to  $60 30  cents 

"     $60  to  $70 35  cents 

"     $70  to  $80 40  cents 

"     $80  to  $90 45  cents 

"     $90  to  $100 50  cents 

INTERNATIONAL    RATES. 

WHEN    PAYABLE    IN    CANADA..    CUBA    AND    THE    PHILIPPINES  : 

Use  the  International  form  for  these  Orders. 

For  Order  not  exceeding  $10 10  cents 

From  $10  to  $20 20  cents 

Over  $20  to  $30 30  cents 

"     $30  to  $40 40  cents 

"     $40  to  $50 50  cents 

"     $50  to  $60 60  cents 

*'     $60  to  $70 70  cents 

"     $70  to  $80 80  cents 

"     $80  to  $90 90  cents 

"     $90  to  $100 ,  ...1    dollar 

Observe  that  for  Orders  payable  in  Canada,  Cuba  and  the  Philippines  oniy 
the  Domestic  rate  is  to  be  charged,  and  the  Domestic  forms  are  to  be  used. 

Take  notice  that  the  maximum  amount  for  which  a  Money  Order  may  be 
drawn  payable  In  the  United  Kingdom,  Bermuda,  Jamaica,  Cape  Colony  or 
British   Guiana,    is   $50.00. 

There  is  no  limitation  to  the  number  of  International  Orders  that  may  be 
Issued,  In  one  day,  to  a  Remitter,  In  favor  of  the  same  Payee. 


256  New  Orleans  Guide. 

PORT  OF  NEW  ORLEANS. 

The  Port  of  New  Orleans,  with  its  fifteen  miles  of  river 
front,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world.     The  depth  of  the 
river  is  from  150  to  200  feet  (off  the  United  States  Mint)  and 
in  many  places  the  depth  of  the  river  at  the  bank  is  30  to  50 
feet.     The  water  being  fresh,  vessels  can  remain  for  years 
without  having  their  bottoms  covered  with  barnacles.     Along 
the  front  are  wooden  wharves,  which  are  operated  by  a  Dock 
Commission  with  the  object  of  making  the  port  charges  as 
light  as  possible.     There  is  no  tide  in  the  harbor,  it  being  a 
distance  of  one  hundred  miles  from  the  Gnlf  of  Mexico,  but 
the  river  rises  very  much  at  different  times,  especially  in  the 
Spring,  with  the  melting  of  the  snows  and  ice  in  the  upper 
valleys.     The  river  then  becomes  very  muddy,  with  a  swift 
current  of  four  miles  an  hour.     The  sediment  brought  down 
forms   an   alluvion   or   hatture,   as   it   is   called,   at   different 
places  along  the  river,  where  the  slack  of  the  current  carries 
it.     The  landings  are  called  '^the  levee"  from  the  fact  that 
originally  there  were  levees  along  the  harbor  front,  but  as  the 
landings  have  been  filled  up  to  the  level  of  the  top  of  the 
levee,    with    a    gradual    slant    towards    the    city,    the    sDace 
thus  has  continued  to  be  called  "the  levee/'    It  varies  from 
one  to  three  squares  in  width,  and  in  Winter,  covered  with 
hogsheads  of  sugar,  bales  of  cotton,  with  little  flags  to  denote 
each  lot,  and  various  kinds  of  produce,  furnishes  an  interest- 
ing sight  of  busy  life.     At  night  the  levee  is  lighted  by  elec- 
tricity, and  the  chain  of  lights,  winding  around  the  curves  of 
the  river,  look  like  a  big  necklace  of  diamonds.     One  section 
of   the    river    front,    between   Julia   and    St.    Louis    streets, 
with  Canal  street  as  the  centre,  is  set  apart  as  the  steamboat 
landing.     There  are  to  be  seen  the  large  Mississippi  river 
boats  and  the  small  stern  wheel  boats,  some  of  which  draw 
only  three  or  four  feet  of  water  and  are  thus  able  to  penetrate 
far  into  the  interior.     Above  Julia  street  is  the  flat-boat  and 
barge  landing,  then  further  up  the  tropical  fruit  wharves,  and 
then  several  miles  of  foreign  shipping.    Below  the  Canal  street 
steamboat  landing  is  the  Sugar  Levee,  and  then  that  of  the 
New  York  steamships;   then  comes  the  Lugger  Landing,  rail- 
road ferry  and  ships  from  the  tropics.     New  Orleans  is  the 
second  largest  port  after  that  of  New  York,  its  annual  imports 
amounting  to  $21,000^000^  and  its  exports  to  $151,000^000.  The 


Sights  of  the  City.  257 

various  landings  are  indicated  by  posts  (see  Levee  Register). 
In  the  Dock  Commission  report  of  1902  it  is  stated  that  1661  sea- 
going vessels  of  a  4,000,635  gross  tonnag'e  entered  the  port. 

PRODUCE  EXCHANGE. 

On  Magazine  street,  near  Natchez  alley.    For  admission,  apply  to  janitor. 

Until  the  year  1883  New  Orleans  had  no  regular  Produce 
Exchange  building,  and  then  the  present  edifice  was  erected 
by  the  combination  of  dealers  in  Western  produce.  The 
old  St.  James  Hotel  was  purchased,  and  the  present  spacious 
Exchange  building  erected  in  the  rear.  This  hall  is  lofty  and 
well  lighted,  and  here  at  all  hours  of  the  day  the  produce 
merchants  congregate  for  business. 


PUBLIC  HALLS. 

Masonic  Temple. 

Oil  St.  Charles  street,  corner  of  Perdido  street,  four  sciuares  from  Canal  street. 

The  Masonic  Temple,  a  large  building  of  brick  and  stone, 
was  erected  in  1891  from  designs  by  James  Freret.  The 
lower  floors  are  used  for  stores  and  offices  and  the  upper 
floors  for  lodge  rooms. 

Odd  Fellows'  Hall. 

Camp  street,  opposite  Lafayette  Square.  Take  Camp  or  Magazine  cars  on 
Canal  street. 

The  Odd  Fellows'  Hall  is  small,  but  conveniently  arranged 
for  balls  and  concerts.  The  walls  are  frescoed  with  symbols 
of  their  order,  and  have  a  pleasing  effect.  In  1875,  when 
rival  factions  were  contending  for  supremacy  in  Louisiana, 
and  the  State  was  blessed  with  two  Governors,  two  sets  of 
State  officials,  and  two  Legislatures,  one  of  the  Governors 
(Democratic)  made  this  hall  its  capitol.  Above  the  hall  are 
the  various  lodge  rooms  of  the  Odd  Fellows '  Society. 

Washington  Artillery  Hall. 

On  St.  Charles  street,  between  Girod  and  Julia  streets.  Take  oars  on  St. 
Charles  street  to  door,  seven  squares  from  Canal  street. 

The  Washington  Artillery  Hall,  formerly  the  Exposition 
Hall,  occupies  the  upper  part  of  the  Washington  Artillery 


258  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Armory.  The  hall  proper,  81x170  feet,  extends  half  way 
through  the  block  and  forms  an  immense  ball  room,  in  the 
rear  of  which  is  another  hall  equally  as  large,  the  whole 
giving,  perhaps,  the  largest  ball  room  space  in  the  Union. 
This  ball  room  has  a  white  and  gold  colonnade  on  each  side, 
is  frescoed  and  is  used  for  balls,  concerts,  and  public  meet- 
ings. On  Mardi  Gras  night  the  King's  ball  takes  place  hero 
and  the  rear  room  is  transformed  into  a  throne-room  for  his 
Majesty  Rex. 


RACES. 

The  races  take  place  at  the  Fair  Grounds,  near  Esplanade  street.  Take 
Esplanade  cars  on  Canal  street,  or  the  Bayou  St.  John  or  Broad  street  cars. 
By  carriage  the  route  is  via  Broad  or  Esplanade  streets,  thence  by  Gentilly 
Road  to  main  gate,  by  which  vehicles  enter  the  grounds. 

The  races  commence  in  November  and  last  one  hundred 
days,  at  the  Fair  Grounds,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Crescent 
City  Jockey  Club  and  are  always  well  attended  by  fashion 
and  sporting  amateurs.  The  various  stables  of  the  North  and 
West  meet  here  annually  and  great  pains  are  taken  to  hold 
fair  and  honest  races.  The  course  is  oval  and  perfectly  flat, 
and  sometimes  the  track,  on  account  of  the  soil,  is  very  heavy. 
The  grand  stand  is  a  large  wooden  building,  commanding  a 
good  view  of  the  course  from  starting  point  to  finishing  post, 
and  is  capable  of  accommodating  a  large  crowd.  The  stables 
are  directly  in  front  of  the  grand  stand  and  slightly  con- 
cealed by  several  large  live  oaks. 


RAILROAD  DEPOTS. 

Illinois  Central  Union  Depot. 

Illinois  Central  Railroad,  commonly  called  the  ''Illinois 
Central  Depot,"  corner  of  Howard  avenue  and  Rampart 
street.    Take,  on  Canal  street,  the  Clio  car. 

Louisville  &  Nashville  Route. 

Commonly  known  as  the  "Mobile  Depot,"  on  the  Levee  at 
the  head  of  Canal  street.  Take,  on  Canal  street,  the  Coliseim) 
cars,  or  the  Claiborne  or  Tulane  cars. 


Sights  op  the  City.  259 

Southern  Pacific  Route. 
(Morgan's  Louisiana  &  Texas  Railroad).  On  the  Levee  at 
the  head  of  Esplanade  street  and  Elysian  Fields  street.  On 
Canal  street  take,  at  the  corner  of  Carondelet  or  Bourbon 
streets,  the  Carondelet  street  cars,  or  on  Canal  street,  in  front 
of  the  Custom  House,  the  Levee  and  Barracks  cars. 

Queen  &  Crescent  Route. 

Popularly  called  the  "Northeastern  Depot,"  on  the  Levee, 
near  St.  Ferdinand  street.  At  Canal  and  Carondelet  streets 
take  Carondelet  cars  or  on  Canal  street,  in  front  of  the  Cus- 
tomhouse, take  the  Levee  and  Barracks  cars  to  rear  end  of 
depot  on  Chartres  street,  near  St.  Ferdinand  street. 

Mississippi  Valley  Railroad. 

(Yazoo  Valley  and  Mississippi  Valley  Railroad.)  Corner 
Howard  avenue  and  Rampart  street  (Union  Depot).  Take  the 
Clio  cars  on  Canal  street,  or  at  the  corner  of  Canal  and  Ba- 
ronne  streets  the  St.  Charles  or  Jackson  avenue  cars  to  the 
corner  of  Howard  avenue ;  then  walk  out  Howard  avenue  two 
squares  toward  the  rear  of  the  city. 

Texas  Pacific  Route. 

Also  called  the  "New  Orleans  Pacific  or  Gouldsboro  Depot," 
on  the  Levee,  at  the  head  of  Terpsichore  street.  Take,  at  the 
corner  of  Canal  and  Camp  streets,  the  Tchoupitoulas  cars 
to  Terpsichore  street,  then  walk  three  blocks  to  the  river. 

Pontchartrain  Railroad. 
Known  as  the  "Old  Lake,  or  Lake  Pontchartrain  Depot," 
on  Elysian  Fields  street,  near  the  Levee.    Take,  at  the  corner 
of  Canal  and  Carondelet,  or  Bourbon  streets,  the  Carondelet 
or  Clio  street  cars  to  end  of  route. 

Shell  Beach  Railroad. 
Depot  corner  of  Elysian  Fields  and  St.  Claude  streets.    On 
Canal  street  take  the  Claiborne  cars. 

West  End  Railroad. 
"West  End    (or  New  Lake)    Depot,"  corner   Canal  and 
Baronne  streets. 

Spanish  Fort  Railroad. 
"Spanish  Fort  Depot,"  corner  Basin  and  Canal  streets. 


260  New  Orleans  Guide. 

SCHOOLS. 

Education  in  Louisiana,  on  account  of  its  large  negro  and 
mixed  population,  Is  not  as  advanced  as  in  other  States,  but 
while  this  may  apply  to  the  masses,  the  better  classes  are  well 
educated  and  speak  fluently  several  languages.  The  public 
schools  in  the  State,  under  the  general  supervision  of  a 
State  Board  of  Education,  appointed  by  the  Governor  and 
presided  over  by  a  Superintendent  of  Public  Education,  who 
is  elected  for  four  years  at  the  general  election,  cost  the  State 
$450,000.  The  management  of  the  schools  is  confided  to 
parish  (county)  boards  with  a  superintendent.  A  school  tax 
is  levied  by  the  State  and  apportioned  by  the  State  Board  to 
each  parish  according  to  the  number  of  educable  children  in 
each  parish.  Parish  school  and  poll  taxes  are  also  levied, 
the  Parish  of  (City  of  New  Orleans)  Orleans  appropriating 
nearly  $510,000  annually  for  its  schools,  which  have  an  at- 
tendance of  about  32,000  children.  With  the  John  McDonogh 
legacy  nearly  thirty  handsome  model  school  houses  have  been 
built  for  w^hite  children.  The  schools  are  not  "mixed,"  but 
the  colored  people  have  separate  schools  w^ith  facilities  and 
teachers  equal  to  the  white  schools  and  are  well  attended  by 
colored  children.  ,  The  McDonogh  School  (v^hite),  corner 
Baronne  and  Second  streets,  and  the  Lasalle  School  on  Web- 
ster street,  are  model  school  buildings. 

SLAUGHTER  HOUSES. 

On  the  river  front,  below  the  city.  Talce  Dauphine  cars  on  Canal  street  to 
Slaughter    Houses. 

The  Slaughter  Houses  or  "Abbatoirs,"  as  they  are  called, 
were  located  at  the  lower  end  of  the  city  and  just  outside  of 
the  city  limits  to  avoid  heavy  taxation.  They  consist  of  a 
series  of  open  sheds  where  all  the  city  butchering  is  done 
every  afternoon  at  3  o'clock.  Adjacent  to  the  Slaughter 
Houses  are  the  pens  where  cattle  are  sold.  Most  of  the  cattle 
received  and  butchered  here  for  the  city  consumption  come 
from  Texas.  They  are  fattened  on  the  products  of  cotton  seed 
oil  mills  and  finished  by  being  fed  grain  for  a  short  time.  The 
butchering  business  is  monopolized  by  Gascons,  who  speak 
among  themselves  a  jargon  French,  Spanish  and  English 
combined.     A  walk  through  the  abattoirs,  although  dirty,  is 


262  New  Orleans  Guide. 

quite  interesting  to  strangers ;  an  inspection  of  the  sheds  will 
show  what  an  immense  herd  of  cattle  is  necessary  to  feed  a 
large  city. 

SOCIETIES. 

There  are  in  the  city  a  great  many  benevolent  societies, 
which,  in  times  of  great  epidemics,  nobly  come  to  the  relief  of 
their  fellowmen.  The  different  nationalties  are  also  organ- 
ized into  societies,  which  have  always  a  large  membership  and 
full  treasury.  Among  the  most  noted  organizations  are  the 
following — for  the  others  consult  the  City  Directory: 

Masons— Masonic  Hall,  corner  St.  Charles  and  Perdido 
streets. 

Odd  Fellows— Odd  Fellows'  Hall,  Camp  street,  opposite 
Lafayette  Square. 

Knights  of  Pythias— Perdido  street,  near  Baronne  street. 

Knights  of  Honor,  Pelican  Benevolent  Society,  New  Lusita- 
nos  Society,  Spanish  Benevolent  Society,  Druids,  Hibernia 
Society,  Italian  Society,  Slavonic  Society,  Portuguese  Society. 

SUGAR  TRADE. 

Louisiana,  prior  to  the  late  civil  war,  produced  annually  a 
crop  of  about  four  hundred  thousand  hogsheads  of  sugar 
(each  hogshead  weighing  1,000  pounds),  but  the  crop  has 
diminished.  The  reduction  of  the  tariff  on  foreign  sugar,  the 
constant  agitation  of  further  reductions,  the  abolition  of 
slavery,  together  with  dangerous  levees  along  the  river,  the 
increased  cost  of  production  and  low  prices,  have  nearly  an- 
nihilated this  important  crop,  and  to  such  an  extent  that 
Louisiana  may,  in  after  years,  cease  to  be  the  ''Sugar  Bowl" 
of  the  Union. 

SUGAR  PLANTING. 

Sugar,  in  Louisiana,  is  produced  from  the  ribbon  cane,  a 
hardy  species  of  violet  and  yellow  cane,  that  is  able  to  stand 
the  early  frosts.  The  plantations  are  mostly  situated  along 
the  river  or  bayou  fronts  to  obtain  good  drainage,  so  essen- 
tial to  the  profitable   cultivation   of   cane.    The   culture   is 


264  New  Orleans  Guide. 

a  forced  one,  and  was  introduced  during  Spanish  times  by  the 
Jesuit  priests  to  supplant  indigo,  which,  until  then,  had  been 
the  principal  crop  of  the  colony,  and  which  now,  strange  to 
say,  has  disappeared  and  is  unknown.  A  few  years  later,  Mr. 
Etienne  de  Bore  put  the  sugar  cane  cultivation  into  practice 
on  the  site  of  the  present  "Audubon  Park,"  and  ground  the 
first  crop,  making  a  raw  article  of  sugar.  Cane  is  planted  in 
rows  from  joints  of  the  cane  itself  in  the  Fall  and  Spring,  and 
in  March  it  sends  forth  little  shoots  which  resemble  corn. 
This  plant  obtains,  with  careful  weeding  and  cultivation,  a 
height  of  about  seven  feet,  and  is  ripe  for  cutting  in  October. 


SUGAR  GRIN'DING. 

The  cane  is  cut  and  hauled  in  mule  carts  to  the  sugar  mills, 
where  it  is  thrown  on  a  cane  carrier  and  conveyed  to  a  set  of 
huge  rollers,  turned  by  steam,  through  which  the  cane  passes, 
and  the  juice  is  extracted  by  pressure.  The  juice,  a  milkish 
white  liquid,  with  a  peculiar  fresh  sweet  odor,  is  purified 
with  lime  and  by  the  fumes  of  sulphur,  and  is  then  boiled  in  a 
series  of  mammoth  open  iron  kettles  and  iron  covered  kettles, 
until  it  reaches  the  granulating  point.  It  is  then  conveyed  to 
large  vats,  called  coolers,  and  left  there  to  cool  and  granulate 
into  sugar.  After  a  few  days  this  mass  of  cooked  juice,  which 
has  become  sugar  is  carried  to  the  purgery  and  packed  in 
hogsheads  of  a  thousand  pounds  each.  After  draining  off  in 
the  purgery  all  the  molasses  mixed  in  with  the  sugar  the 
article  is  ready  for  the  market  as  brown  sugar.  White  sugars 
are  produced  by  several  different  processes  in  refineries,  and 
all  the  large  plantations  have  machinery  for  producing  such 
grades  of  sugar. 

SUGAR  SHEDS. 

On  the  Levee,  between  Customhonse  and  Toulouse  streets. 

To  protect  the  crop  of  sugar  from  the  weather  and  to 
handle  it  properly  large  warehouse  sheds  were  erected  on  the 
Levee,  a  few  years  ago  by  a  company.  These  sheds  are  open 
on  all  sides  and  the  floors  are  constructed  to  drain  to  a 
centre,  so  as  to  gather  all  the  molasses  draining  from  the 
hogsheads. 


266  New  Orleans  Gtttde. 

SUGAR  EXCHANGE. 

Levee,  corner  of  Bienville  street. 

The  Sugar  Exchange  was  organized  in  1883,  and  built  an 
elegant  Exchange  fitted  with  all  modern  conveniences.  The 
Exchange  is  useful  in  gathering  information  about  the  sugar 
crop  and  giving  timely  weather  indications  of  early  frosts  and 
ice  to  planters,  besides  resisting  any  adverse  legislation  by 
Congress. 

TIME  SIGNALS. 

On  the  city  bells  time  signals  are  sounded  daily  by  elec- 
tricity from  the  City  Hall. 

Two  blows  for  6  o  'clock  a.  m. 

Two  blows  for  12  o'clock  m. 

Four  blows  for  1  o'clock  p.  m. 

Nine  blows  for  9  o'clock  p.  m. 

On  Sundays  the  same,  except  one  blow  at  12  m.,  and  none 
at  1  o  'clock  p.  m. 


UNIVERSTY. 

TuLANE  University  of  Louisiana. 

On  St.  Charles  avenue,  opposite  Audubon  Park.  Open  daily.  Art,  Historical, 
Natural  History  Museums.     Open  daily  ;  free. 

The  Tulane  University  of  Louisiana  occupies  the  several 
imposing  buildings  on  St.  Charles  avenue,  and  has  over  one 
thousand  students  in  all  its  departments. 

The  University,  under  the  presidency  of  E.  A.  Alderman, 
L.L.  D.,  is  divided  into  several  faculties:  The  University 
Faculty  and  the  Special  Faculties,  as  follows:  The  Faculty 
of  Arts  and  Sciences,  the  Faculty  of  Technology,  the  Faculty 
of  the  Newcomb  College,  the  Law  Faculty,  and  the  Medical 
Faculty,  H.  Sophie  Newcomb  Memorial  College  for  Young 
Women,  the  Law  Department  and  the  Medical  Department, 
are  separate  colleges. 

Foundation  of  the  University. 

The  University  of  Louisiana,  created  by  Act  49  of  February 
16,  1847,  grew  out  of  the  Medical  College  of  Louisiana,  found- 


268  New  Orleans  Guide. 

ed  in  1839,  by  Dr.  Thomas  Hunt,  a  distinguished  practitioner 
of  New  Orleans,  who  afterwards  became  its  third  president, 
and  was  organized  under  the  presidency  of  Francis  Liston 
Hawkes,  D.D.,  L.L.D.  It  was  maintained  by  small  State  ap- 
propriations until  1882,  when  Paul  Tulane,  a  native  of  New 
Jersey  and  a  former  resident  of  New  Orleans,  where  he  was 
always  esteemed  as  a  merchant  of  great  integrity  during  a 
long  and  honorable  career  of  half  a  century,  made  a  donation 
of  over  a  million  dollars  to  the  cause  of  education.  In  making 
this  donation,  Mr.  Tulane  availed  himself  of  the  wise  counsels 
of  the  Honorable  Randall  Lee  Gibson,  at  the  time  United 
States  Senator  from  Louisiana,  and  with  his  advice  laid  the 
foundations  for  a  great  University  by  selecting  a  capabl*^ 
Board  of  Administrators  to  carry  out  the  plan  of  a  great 
practical,  modern,  scientific  and  literary  institution.  By  Act 
43  of  1884,  of  the  Legislature  of  Louisiana,  which  was  ratified 
by  a  constitutional  amendment  April  17,  1888,  the  University 
of  Louisiana  was  reorganized  as  the  Tulane  University  of 
Louisiana  and  founded  upon  this  endowment  of  Mr. 
Tulane.  By  virtue  of  this  legislation  the  Administrators 
of  the  Tulane  Educational  Fund  became  administrators  in 
perpetuity  of  the  University  of  Louisiana,  agreeing  to  devot-^ 
their  income  to  its  development,  and  to  establish  thereon  the 
Tulane  University  of  Louisiana.  The  University  is  managed 
by  a  Board  of  Administrators,  originally  selected  by  Mr. 
Tulane  and  all  vacancies  in  the  number  are  filled  by  the  Board 
itself.  Mrs.  Josephine  Louise  Lemonnier,  widow  of  Warren 
Newcomb,  of  New  York,  donated  $2,500,000  to  the  University 
and  the  IT.  Sophie  Newcomb  Memorial  College  for  Youni^ 
Women  was  founded  in  1886  as  a  memorial  to  her  daughter-. 
In  1891,  Mrs.  Ida  A.  Richardson,  widow  of  Dr.  T.  G.  Richard- 
son, Dean  of  the  Medical  Department,  donated  $100,000  to 
found  a  Medical  College.  Mrs.  Surget  and  others  have  made 
donations  to  the  Art  and  Natural  History  collections  and  to 
the  library.  In  1901  Mrs.  F.  W.  Tilton  donated  $50,000  to 
^und  the  Tilton  Library,  a  handsome  building  of  cream- 
colored  stone,  on  the  campus. 

The  students  of  this  department  are  those  desiring  to  tak«^ 
a  post-graduate  course  and  to  avail  themselves  of  the  lectures, 
of  the  laboratory,  and  of  other  facilities  of  the  University. 
In  Louisiana,  the  Sugar  Bowl  of  the  Union,  the  laboratory 
studies  of  this  department  are  of  use  to  sugar  chemists,  and 


270  New  Orleans  Guide, 

the  cane  agriculture  of  the  State  will  thus,  in  the  future, 
derive  great  benefit  from  this  school. 

TuLANE  College. 

Tulane  College  studies  embrace  four  years  of  solid  collegiate 
instruction,  and  are  divided  into  four :  the  Classical,  Literary, 
Scientific  and  Engineering  courses.  Each  has  four  classes, 
which  retain  the  time-honored  name  of  Freshman,  Sophomore, 
Junior  and  Senior.  Degrees  of  Bachelor  of  Art  are  conferred 
on  students  completing  the  classical  or  literary  course,  and  on 
those  completing  the  scientific  or  engineering  course  that  of 
Bachelor  of  Science.  Degrees  of  Masters  of  Art  are  also  con- 
ferred on  the  completion  of  certain  studies,  and  higher  hon- 
orary degrees  are  also  conferred.  Annual  competitions  are  held 
for  the  Glendy  Burke  medals  for  Elocution,  Mathematics  and 
English  Essays;  the  Judah  Touro  medals  for  excellence  in 
Latin,  Greek  and  Ancient  History,  and  the  Louis  Bush  medal 
for  a  French  essay.  State  Senators  and  Representatives  and 
the  Mayor  of  New  Orleans  have  the  nomination  to  one  hundred 
and  fifty  free  scholarships  in  the  College  Departments. 

H.  Sophie  Nev^comb  Memorial  College. 

This  College,  founded  in  1886  for  the  higher  education  of 
women,  is  situated  on  Washington  avenue,  corner  of  Chestnut 
street.  Its  laboratories  are  useful  to  the  students  of  chem- 
istry, as  they  contain  all  modern  appliances;  its  art  studios 
possess  a  good  selection  of  classical  casts  and  the  most  im- 
proved facilities  to  study  all  branches  are  given  to  students. 
There  are  three  courses  of  study,  the  Classical,  Scientific,  or 
Modern  Languages,  each  of  which  leads  to  the  degree  of 
Bachelor  of  Arts,  and  are  divided  into  four  classes,  the  Fresh- 
man, Sophomore,  Junior  and  Senior,  A  Preparatory  Class  is 
also  taught.  The  tuition  fees  vary  according  to  the  studies. 
The  Cora  A.  Slocomb  and  B.  C.  Wetmore  free  scholarships 
are  awarded  every  year  by  competitive  examination.  Th( 
buildings  are  arranged  in  the  midst  of  a  beautiful  park  of 
oaks,  and  in  these  grounds  is  a  pretty  stone  chapel  with  an 
artistic  Tiffany  window  of  the  ''Resurrection."  The  pottery 
works  produce  very  artistic  pottery  and  are  worth  an  inspec- 
tion.    The  Art  building  has  a  collection  of  paintings  and  in 


m 


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lr-rrf||  ,«^| 


i^ii 


•.,j  i     mm 


272  New  Orleans  Guide. 

the  library  there  are  many  old  and  rare  books,  which  have 
been  donated  to  the  College. 

Medical  Department— (on  Canal  Street). 

The  old  "Medical  College  of  Louisiana,"  founded  in  1834, 
under  Dean  Thomas  Hunt,  M.  D.,  is  the  oldest  in  the  South- 
west, besides  it  has  the  greatest  number  of  alumni  and  of 
students.  By  Act  49  of  1847,  it  was  annexed  to  the  University 
of  Louisiana  and  was  called  the  "Medical  Department  of  the 
University  of  Louisiana."  In  1884  it  became  the  "Medical 
Department  of  the  Tulane  University  of  Louisiana."  In  1891 
Mrs.  Ida  A.  Slocomb  Richardson  made  a  donation  of  $100,000 
in  memory  of  her  deceased  husband,  the  distinguished  Dr.  T. 
G.  Richardson,  for  many  years  a  professor  in  the  University, 
and  in  1893  the  Richardson  Memorial  College  was  erected  at 
the  corner  of  Canal  and  Villere  streets,  after  designs  by  Sully. 
All  its  various  lecture  halls,  dissecting  rooms,  laboratories, 
are  on  the  very  latest  and  most  improved  plans,  thus  provid- 
ing one  of  the  most  perfect  institutions  in  the  country  for 
medical  education.  To  May,  1900,  the  College  had  regis- 
tered 13,159  students,  and  of  these  3,401  have  received 
diplomas  to  go  forth  and  heal  the  sick.  In  1892  there  were 
413  matriculates.  The  great  Charity  Hospital,  with  its  seven 
hundred  beds  and  its  yearly  five  thousand  patients,  affords  the 
Tulane  students  a  good  field  of  study,  besides  which  the  course 
is  two  years  of  thoroughly  practical  study.  The  Anatomical 
Museum  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  country.  Drs.  Warren  Stone, 
Joseph  Jones,  Tobias  G.  Richardson,  Stanford  E.  Chaille, 
Samuel  Logan,  have,  at  various  times,  filled  with  great  dis- 
tinction, the  chairs  of  professors  of  medicine  and  surgery. 

Lav^  School  Department. 

The  Law  School  was  organized  in  1847,  and  has  numbered 
among  its  professors  the  most  distinguished  lawyers  of  the 
State.  Wliile  the  civil  law  is  taught  in  some  other  institutions 
from  an  amateur  standpoint,  here,  as  the  basis  of  the  whole 
legal  superstructure  and  machinery  of  the  State,  as  the  foun- 
dation of  its  Civil  Code  and  jurisdiction,  it  is  treated  as  a 
living  organization,  not  as  a  fossil.  Those  who  wish  to  breathe 
the  spirit  of  the  civil  law  are  apt  to  seek  it  here,  and  also  to 
listen  to  the  principles  of  common  law  expounded  by  dis- 


Sights  of  the  City.    ^  273 

tinguished  jurists.     The  course  is  for  two  years,  at  the  end 
of  which  the  graduate  receives  the  degree  of  Bachelor  of  Laws. 

TiLTON  Memorial  Library. 

A  beautiful  stone  building  on  the  front  campus  of  the  Uni- 
versity, the  gift  of  Mrs.  F.  W.  Tilton,  in  memory  of  her  hus- 
band, a  former  merchant  and  capitalist  of  New  Orleans,  has  a 
fine  collection  of  books.  The  building,  which  is  of  cream- 
colored  stone,  was  designed  by  Andry  &  Bendernagel,  archi- 
tects of  New  Orleans,  and  is  a  little  gem  of  Romanesque  con- 
struction. 

Museum. 
On  the  upper  floors  of  the  main  building  are  the  Museums 
of  Natural  History  and  the  Surget  collections,  which  are  very 
instructive  and  should  be  visited.  The  Natural  History  has 
a  collection  of  stuffed  animals,^  which  was  formerly  a  part  of 
the  Ward  collection. 


URSULINE  CONVENT. 

North  Peters  street,  near  Poland  street.  Take  Dauphine  cars  on  Canal 
street,  or  Levee  and  Barracks  cars  in  front  of  the  Customhoiise,  to  rear  gate 
of  Convent.     Admission  at  inside  gate  of  St.  Ursula  s  Idall. 

The  Ursuline  Convent  occupies  a  large  tract  of  land,  on 
which  are  erected  several  buildings  connected  with  each  other 
and  with  a  chapel  at  the  lower  end.  The  main  building  faces 
the  river,  and  being  very  long  and  painted  white,  is  a  promi- 
nent landmark.  The  Convent,  surrounded  by  gardens  and 
groves  of  large  oak  and  pecan  trees,  is  a  pleasant  and  favorite 
educational  establishment  with  the  Creoles.  The  Ursuline 
nuns  of  to-day,  being  a  cloistered  order  (named  in  honor  of 
St.  Ursula),  never  leave  their  convent,  but  devote  themselves 
entirely  to  the  education  of  young  ladies  committed  to  their 
charge.  This  Convent  is  considered  an  excellent  French 
school  and  is  patronized  by  the  old  Creole  families  of  Louis- 
iana. A  grating  separates  the  inmates  from  the  outside  world, 
and  some  of  the  nuns  who  reside  here  have  never,  since  their 
entrance  into  the  order,  been  outside  of  the  Convent  walls. 
The  Ursulines  were  the  pioneers  of  the  religious  orders  in 
Louisiana,  and  the  history  of  their  advent  is  interesting,  as  it 
dates  almost  from  the  first  settlement  of  the  colony. 


274  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Bienville,  the  founder  of  the  City  of  New  Orleans,  in  1718, 
soon  decided  he  must  have  some  one  to  educate  the  girls  of  his 
colony.  He  consulted  Father  Beaubois,  a  superior  of  the 
Jesuits,  who  had  recently  arrived,  as  to  what  he  should  do.  The 
zealous  Father  suggested  the  Ursulines  of  Rouen  as  likely  ".o 
be  able  to  supply  religious  teachers,  and  to  them  application 
was  immediately  made.  As  a  result  of  this  effort,  a  ladv 
bearing  the  singular  name  of  Tranchepain  (slice  of  bread),  a 
converted  Protestant  and  a  professed  IJrsuline,  left  France 
with  nine  professed  companions,  one  novice  and  two  servants, 
in  the  ship  Gironde,  from  Port  L 'Orient,  February  22d,  1727. 

The  Gironde  was  provisioned  as  for  a  siege,  but  the  accom- 
modations for  passengers  were  wretched.  During  the  voyage 
they  encountered  terrific  storms,  were  even  pursued  by  cor- 
sairs, and  at  one  time  all  the  ladies  except  the  nuns  had  to 
assume  male  attire  and  man  the  ship  to  save  her  from  pirates. 
The  ship,  after  meeting  with  fearful  winds  in  the  Caribbean 
Sea,  being  stranded  on  Dauphine  Island,  and  losing  nearly  all 
her  cargo,  reached  Louisiana  in  July.  She  probably  entered 
the  Mississippi  river  through  the  ''Horse"  Pass,  or  as  it  was 
then  called.  Pass  Sau voile. 

At  the  Balize  the  travelers  were  transferred  to  "pirogues, 
their  trunks  being  stowed  in  the  centre  of  them.  At  night,  as 
they  voyaged  up  the  river,  they  went  ashore  and  slept,  when 
permitted  by  the  devouring  mosquitoes.  The  voyage  from 
France  had  consumed  six  months,  and  their  friends  in  New 
Orleans  supposed  they  had  perished  at  sea.  After  fifteen 
days  of  river  journeying  they  reached  the  scene  of  their  future 
arduous  and  zealous  labors,  the  village  of  New  Orleans  at  this 
time  presenting  no  better  aspect  than  that  of  a  vast  sink  or 
sewer.  It  was  surrounded  by  a  large  ditch  and  fenced  in  with 
sharp  stakes  wedged  close  together.  Tall  reeds  and  coarse 
grasses  grew  in  the  streets,  and  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the 
church  which  stood  on  the  same  s^duare.  but  in  the  rear  of  the 
present  Cathedral,  reptiles  croaked  and  malefactors  and  wild 
beasts  lurked  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  protected  by  impene- 
trable jungle.  A  picture  of  the  landing  of  the  Ursuline  Nuns 
represents  the  religious  in  procession  received  by  Father  Beau- 
bois, who  presents  to  them  the  Capuchin  pastors  of  the  place, 
and  points  out  the  Indian  and  the  negroes  their  future  charges. 
The  Ursuline  novice  stands  a  little  back  facing  the  church ;  a 


Sights  of  the  City.  275 

negress,  with  a  baby  in  her  arms,  regards  the  group  with  awe 
and  wonderment.  A  beautiful  squaw,  decked  with  beads  and 
shells,  and  surrounded  by  plump  pappooses,  half  reclines  on 
some  logs,  while  a  Congro  negro  looks  on  from  his  seat  on  a 
wood  pile.  A  young  girl,  Claude  Massey  has  a  cat  in  her 
arms  one  she  has  brought  from  France,  which  is,  doubtless, 
the  original  of  all  the  feline  species  in  Louisiana.  Claude  is 
standing  near  ''Sister  Anne;"  both  are  dressed  as  Norman 
peasants;  severalJesuits  and  Capuchins  appear  in  the  distance. 
The  whole  group  is  overshadowed  by  immense  trees  heavily 
draped  with  moss. 

When  the  first  greeting  was  over,  the  nuns  and  their  com- 
panions were  conducted  to  the  church,  and  thence  to  Bien- 
ville's house,  which  he  generously  offered  as  the  monastery, 
which  was  being  built,  was  not  completed.  Bienville's  house 
occupied  the  square  now  bounded  by  Decatur,  Bienville,  Cus- 
tomhouse and  Chartres  streets.  It  was  two  stories  high,  with 
a  flat  roof,  which  could  be  used  as  a  belvidere.  It  had  many 
windows,  which  were  covered  with  thin  linen  instead  of  hav- 
ing sash  and  glass.  The  ground  about  the  house  was  cleared, 
but  the  establishment  was  in  the  depth  of  the  forest. 

Almost  immediately  the  nuns  began  to  instruct  the  Indians 
and  the  negroes,  and  to  care  for  the  sick.  They  received  under 
their  protection  the  orphans  of  the  French  recently  massa- 
cred at  Natchez,  also  the  "  Filles-a-la-Casette, "  or  casket 
girls,  several  installments  of  whom  the  King  of  France  sent 
over  to  provide  wives  for  the  colonists.  The  nuns  soon  found 
Governor  Bienville's  house  too  small  and  removed  to  a  planta- 
tion which  had  been  given  them  by  the  "India  Company," 
where  they  erected  buildings,  which  were  destroyed  by  fire  in 
1788.  Later,  their  extensive  buildings  were  located  on  the 
property  through  which  passes  the  present  Ursulines  street; 
their  schools,  hospital,  chapel  and  domicile  were  built  on  the 
squares  adjacent  to  this  street. 

The  first  reinforcement  to  the  order  came  from  France  in 
1734.  From  these  small  beginnings  the  Ursuline  Nuns  have, 
for  176  years,  steadily  pursued  their  onward  career  of  help- 
fulness. The  present  home  of  the  Archbishop  and  some  few 
buildings  are  among  the  relics  of  this  worthy  order.  From 
these  buildings  on  Chartres  street  they  removed  to  their 
present  spacious  property  about  eighty  years  ago. 


276  New  Orleans  Guide. 

WARD  DIVISIONS. 

Official  Limits  of  New  Orleans. 

Act  No.  216  of  1902  defines  the  limits -of  New  Orleans: 
'^  Commencing  at  a  point  in  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi 
River  abreast  of  a  point  on  the  right  bank  of  the  said  river 
established  by  the  Board  of  State  Engineers,  opposite  Ptolemy 
street,  and  thence  to  the  said  point,  and  thence  running  as 
follows,  viz :  South  42  deg.  30  min. ;  East  4  miles  and  about 
1080  feet ;  South  3  deg.  10  min. ;  West  about  620  feet.  Thence 
along  the  back  line  of  properties  South  57  deg. ;  East  2143 
feet  4y>  inches ;  North  2  deg.  45  min. ;  East  1910  feet  7  inches ; 
South  53  deg.  30  min.;  East  5162  feet  2  inches;  North  6  deg. 
15  min. ;  East  4932  feet  7  inches  to  township  line  1  mile  138 
feet  93/4  inches;  South  76  deg.;  East  311  feet  41/0  inches  to 
township  line,  445  feet  10  min. ;  South  72  deg. ;  East  947  feet 
9V>  inches;  South  65  deg.  30  min. :  East  955  feet  to  range  line ; 
1337  feet  8  inches ;  South  83  1-3  deg. ;  East  860  feet  6  inches ; 
North  61  deg.  7  min. ;  East  524  feet  7  inches  to  range  line, 
1366  feet  6  inches ;  South  81  deg.  15  min. ;  East  2368  feet  6 
inches  to  range  line,  4383  feet  2  inches ;  South  61  deg.  53  min. ; 
East  11/2  miles  and  about  2770  feet  2  inches;  South  31  deg.  35 
min. ;  East  II/2  niiles  and  2163  feet  to  line  of  Jeanne  Lassalles 
and  thence  to  a  point  in  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River 
on  a  projection  of  the  said  line,  and  thence  through  the  centre 
of  the  Mississippi  River  to  the  point  of  commencement." 

First  District. 

First  Ward.— From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
along  the  centre  of  Thalia  street  to  the  intersection  of  Clai- 
borne canal,  and  thence  along  the  centre  of  Claiborne  canal  to 
the  centre  of  Felicity  road,  thence  along  the  centre  of  Felicity 
road  to  the  Mississippi  River,  and  thence  along  the  middle  of 
the  Mississippi  River  to  the  point  of  departure. 

Second  Ward. — From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
along  the  centre  of  Julia  street  to  the  New  Canal,  and  thence 
along  the  centre  of  New  Canal  to  Carrollton  avenue,  and 
thence  along  the  centre  of  Carrollton  avenue  to  the  centre  of 
Melpomene  Canal,  and  thence  along  the  centre  of  Melpomene 
Canal  to  the  centre  of  Claiborne  Canal,  and  thence  along  the 
centre  of  Claiborne  Canal  to  the  centre  of  Thalia  street,  and 


278  New  Orleans  Guide. 

thence  along  the  centre  of  Thalia  street  to  the  Mississippi 
River,  and  thence  along  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River  to 
the  point  of  departure. 

Third  Ward.— From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
along  the  centre  of  Canal  street  to  the  old  Metairie  road,  and 
thence  along  the  centre  of  the  old  Metairie  road  to  the  centre 
of  the  New  Canal,  and  thence  along  the  centre  of  the  New 
Canal  to  the  centre  of  Rampart  street  to  the  centre  of  Julia 
street,  and  thence  along  the  centre  of  Julia  street  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi River,  and  thence  along  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi 
River  to  the  point  of  departure. 

Second  District. 

Fourth  Ward.— From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
along  the  centre  of  Canal  street,  and  thence  along  the  centre 
of  Canal  street  to  the  old  Metairie  road,  thence  along  the 
centre  of  the  old  Metairie  road  to  New  Canal,  thence  along  the 
centre  of  New  Canal  to  Lake  Pontchartrain,  thence  along  the 
middle  of  Lake  Pontchartrain  to  Orleans  Canal,  thence  along 
the  centre  of  Orleans  Canal  to  the  Metairie  road,  thence  along 
the  centre  of  old  Metairie  road  to  St.  Louis  street,  thence  along 
the  centre  of  St.  Louis  street  to  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi 
River,  thence  to  the  point  of  departure. 

Fifth  Ward.— From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
along  the  centre  of  St.  Louis  street  to  the  old  Metairie 
road,  to  the  centre  of  Orleans  Canal,  thence  along  the  centre 
of  said  canal  to  Lake  Pontchartrain,  thence  along  the  middle 
of  the  Lake  to  Bayou  St.  John,  thence  along  the  centre  of 
Bayou  St.  John  to  St.  Philip  street,  thence  along  the  centre  of 
St.  Philip  street  to  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River,  thence 
to  the  point  of  departure. 

Sixth  Ward.— From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River 
along  the  centre  of  St.  Philip  street  to  Bayou  St.  John,  and 
thence  along  the  centre  of  Bayou  St.  John  to  Esplanade  street, 
thence  along  the  centre  of  Esplanade  street  to  the  middle  of 
the  Mississippi  River,  thence  to  point  of  departure. 

Third  District. 

Seventh  Ward.— From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River 
along  the  centre  of  Esplanade  street  to  the  Bayou  St.  John, 
and  thence  along  the  centre  of  Bayou  St.  John  and  cut-off  to 


280  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Lake  Pontchartrain,  and  thence  along  the  middle  of  Lake 
Pontchartrain  to  Elysian  Fields  street,  and  thence  along  the 
centre  of  Elysian  Fields  street  to  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi 
River  and  thence  to  point  of  departure. 

Eighth  Ward.  — From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River 
along  the  centre  of  Elysian  Fields  street  to  Lake  Pontchar- 
train, thence  along  the  middle  of  the  Lake  to  People's  avenue, 
thence  along  the  centre  of  People's  avenue  to  Lafayette  ave- 
nue, and  thence  along  the  centre  of  Ijafayette  avenue  to  the 
middle  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and  thence  along  the  Missis- 
sippi River  to  the  point  of  departure. 

Ninth  Ward.— From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River 
along  the  centre  of  Lafayette  avenue  to  the  centre  of  People's 
avenue,  and  thence  along  the  centre  of  People's  avenue  to 
Lake  Pontchartrain,  and  thence  along  the  middle  of  Lake 
Pontchartrain  to  the  centre  of  the  Rigolets,  and  thence  along 
the  centre  of  the  Rigolets  to  Lake  Borgne,  and  thence  along 
the  main  shore  of  Lake  Borgne,  including  all  islands  within 
one  marine  league  distance  thereof,  to  Bayou  Bienvenu,  and 
thence  along  Bayou  Bienvenu  to  the  Fisherman's  Canal,  and 
thence  along  the  Fisherman's  Canal  to  the  line  of  the  south 
side  of  Florida  Walk,  and  thence  along  said  line  of  Florida 
Walk  to  the  lower  line  of  the  United  States  Barracks,  and 
thence  along  the  lower  line  of  the  United  States  Barracks  to 
the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River,  and  thence  along  the 
Mississippi  River  to  the  point  of  departure. 

Fourth  District. 

Tenth  Ward.  — From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River 
along  the  centre  of  the  Felicity  road  to  the  Melpomene  Canal, 
and  thence  along  the  centre  of  the  Melpomene  Canal  to  its 
intersection  with  First  street,  and  thence  along  the  centre  of 
First  street  to  the  Mississippi  River,  and  thence  along  the 
middle  of  the  Mississippi  River  to  the  point  of  departure. 

Eleventh  Ward.— From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi 
River  along  the  centre  of.  First  street  to  the  Melpomene  tail- 
race,  and  thence  along  the  centre  of  the  Melpomene  tail-race 
to  Toledano  street,  and  thence  along  the  centre  of  Toledano 
street  to  the  Mississippi  River,  and  thence  along  the  middle  of 
the  Mississippi  River  to  the  point  of  departure. 


Sights  of  the  City.  »  281 

Fifth  District   (Algiers). 

The  Fifth  District  of  the  City  of  New  Orleans,  comprisingr 
the  Fifteenth  Ward,  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi River,  and  comprises  all  that  portion  of  the  Parish  of 
Orleans  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River  as  described 
in  the  official  limits  of  the  city. 

Sixth  District. 

Tv^ELFTH  Ward.  — From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River 
along  the  centre  of  Toledano  street  to  Broad  street,  thence 
along  the  centre  of  Broad  street  to  Napoleon  avenue,  and 
thence  along  the  centre  of  Napoleon  avenue  to  the  middle  of 
the  Mississippi  River,  and  thence  along  the  Mississippi  River 
to  the  point  of  departure. 

Thirteenth  Ward.— From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi 
River  along  the  centre  of  Napoleon  avenue  to  Broad  street, 
thence  along  the  centre  of  Broad  street  to  Peters  avenue, 
thence  along  the  centre  of  Peters  avenue  to  the  middle  of  the 
Mississippi  River,  thence  along  the  Mississippi  River  to  the 
point  of  departure. 

Fourteenth  Ward.— From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi 
River  along  the  centre  of  Peters  avenue  to  Broad  street,  and 
thence  along  the  centre  of  Broad  street  to  Toledano  street, 
and  thence  along  the  centre  of  Toledano  street  to  the  Melpo- 
mene tail-race,  and  thence  along,  the  centre  of  Melpomene 
street  to  Lower  Line  street,  and  thence  along  the  cen- 
tre of  Lower  Line  street  to  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
and  thence  along  the  Mississippi  River  to  the  point  of  de- 
parture. 

Seventh  District. 

Sixteenth  Ward.— From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi 
River  along  the  centre  of  Lower  Line  street,  to  the  Melpomene 
tail-race,  and  thence  along  the  centre  of  Melpomene  tail-race 
to  Carrollton  avenue,  thence  along  the  centre  of  Carrollton 
avenue  to  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  River,  thence  along 
the  Mississippi  River  to  the  point  of  departure. 

Seventeenth  Ward.— From  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi 
River,  along  the  centre  of  Carrollton  avenue,  to  the  New 
Canal,  thence  along  the  centre  of  New  Canal  to  Lake  Pont- 


282  New  Orleans  Guide. 

chartrain,  thence  along  the  middle  of  Lake  Pontchartrain  to 
the  Upper  Line  Canal,  thence  along  the  centre  of  the  Upper 
Line  Canal  and  Upper  Line  street  to  the  middle  of  the  Missis- 
sippi River,  and  thence  along  the  Mississippi  River  to  the 
point  of  departure. 


WATERWORKS. 

On  South  I'eters  street,  between  Orange  and  Richard  streets.  Take  Tohou- 
pitoulas  cars  to  Orange  street. 

The  system  of  water  supply  for  New  Orleans  is  very  defi- 
cient, and  attempts  for  improvement  are  constantly  made  by 
the  Waterworks  Company,  a  private  corporation.  The  water 
is  pumped  from  the  Mississippi  River  (which  is  often  extreme- 
ly muddy)  into  a  stand-pipe  and  reservoir  for  distributing 
throughout  the  city.  Owing  to  the  muddiness  of  the  water, 
it  is  comparatively  little  used  except  for  cleaning  streets  and 
extinguishing  fires,  the  inhabitants  preferring  rain  water 
for  drinking  purposes.  In  all  yards  large  cisterns  are  to  be 
seen,  and  on  these  the  inhabitants  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city 
entirely  depend  for  water  supply.  An  entire  new  water  sys- 
tem is  about  to  be  constructed,  the  settling  basins  of  which 
to  furnish  clear  water  are  to  be  located  in  the  rear  of  Carroll- 
ton. 

The  Mississippi  River  water,  notwithstanding  it  is  at  times 
very  muddy,  is  considered  excellent  water  for  various  uses. 
Prof.  Joseph  Jones,  M.  D.,  formerly  of  Tulane  University,  of 
Louisiana,  gives  the  following  analysis.  One  gallon  (70,000 
grains)  of  Mississippi  River  water  from  hydrants  in  office  of 
city  waterworks  contained : 

Specific  gravity,  at  60  degrees 10(),00(» 

Suspended  matters  (silicic  acid,  silicates,  etc.),  grains 18.80 

Fixed   saline    constituents 12.20 

Chloride  of  sodium 8.51 

Carbonate    of    lime 2.69 

Sulphates  and  carbonates  of  alkalies 0.05 


i.    I 


284  New  Orleans  Guide. 


Outlines  of  the  History  of  Louisiana, 

And  of  the  City  of  New  Orleins. 


It  is  often  said  that  Paris  is  France,  and  it  may  also  be  said 
that  New  Orleans  is  Louisiana,  for  the  history  of  the  city  is 
the  history  of  the  State.  As  in  France,  the  chief  city  is  not 
only  the  financial  and  commercial  centre,  but  also  the  political 
centre.  Therefore,  in  giving  the  following  short  historical 
review,  the  history  of  the  State  and  city  are  blended  into  one. 

Discovery  of  Louisiana. 

The  first  mention  of  Louisiana  and  of  the  Mississippi  River 
being  traversed  by  white  men  is  in  1536,  when  a  remnant  of 
the  ill-starred  expedition  of  the  Spaniards,  under  Pamphilo 
de  Narvaez,  in  the  vain  attempt  to  conquer  Florida  and  seek 
for  gold,  escaped  in  this  direction  to  the  Pacific.  Narvaez  had 
been  put  in  command  of  the  territory  extending  west  to  the 
River  of  Palms,  probably  Colorado,  further  west  than  that 
afterwards  included  in  Louisiana. 

Notwithstanding  the  failure  of  Narvaez,  other  adventurers 
were  ready  to  follow.  In  1537  Fernando  de  Soto,  a  native  of 
Xeres,  Spain,  the  favorite  companion  of  Pizarro  in  the  con- 
quest of  Peru,  sought  and  obtained  at  Valladolid,  from 
Charles  V,  permission  to  conquer  Florida  at  his  own  cost. 
Landing  on  that  coast  on  May  31,  1539,  his  well-appointed 
army  was  almost  annihilated  before  he  reached  the  Missis- 
sippi, two  years  later.  In  May,  1542,  DeSoto  died  at  the 
mouth  of  Red  River,  and,  according  to  tradition,  was  buried  in 
the  waters  of  the  Mississippi  River.  The  miserable  remnant  of 
the  expedition  descended  the  Mississippi  to  the  Gulf  in  July, 
1543,  after  enduring  great  hardships  and  privations.  Thus 
does  the  discovery  of  the  Father  of  Waters  belong  to  the  Span- 
iards, and  no  record  of  other  white  men  visiting  it  for  one 
hundred  and  thirty  years  is  in  existence. 


fW-.% 


286  New  Orleans  Guide. 

In  1673  Father  Marquette,  a  missionary  monk,  and  the 
Sieur  Joliet,  from  Picardy,  France,  with  a  small  party  from 
the  French  possessions  of  Canada,  entered  the  upper  Missis- 
sippi, descending  it  to  a  point  below  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas 
and  returned. 

French  Take  Possession. 

In  1682  Robert  Cavalier  de  la  Salle,  then  of  Fort  Frontenac, 
Lake  Ontario,  was  the  next  to  descend  the  great  river,  in  com- 
pany with  Chevalier  Henry  de  Tonti,  an  Italian  veteran  offi- 
cer, under  the  patronage  of  Louis  XIV.  On  the  9th  of  April, 
1682,  LaSalle  halted  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  above 
the  head  of  the  passes,  erected  a  cross,  and,  calling  a  notary 
to  witness,  he  took  solemn  possession  of  the  country  in  the 
name  of  his  sovereign,  Louis  XIV,  King  of  France,  and  named 
it  after  him  Louisiana.  To  a  column  which  he  erected  was 
affixed  this  inscription : 

Louis  le  Grand,  Roi  de  France  et  de  Navarre,  R^gne  ; 
le  neuvieme  Avril,  1682. 

A  salute  was  fired,  and  the  whole  company  shouted  ''Vive 
le  Roi ! "  At  the  foot  of  a  tree  was  buried  a  leaden  plate,  on 
which  were  engraved  the  arms  of  France  and  the  following 
Latin  inscription : 

Ludovicus   Magnus   rcgnat 
Nono  Aprilis   CI i)IO  CLXXXII 
Robertas   Cavalier,   cum   Domino   de  Tonty,   Legate   R.   P.   Zenobio,   membre 
Recollecto,   et  vigenti   Gallis,    Primus  hoc   flumen,   Inde  ab   Illeneorum  page, 
enavigivit,  ejusque  ostium  fecit  per  viam.* 

Louisiana   Settled   by   the   French. 

In  January,  1699,  an  expedition  composed  of  three  hun- 
dred men  was  sent  out  to  colonize  Louisiana.  The  expedition 
was  commanded  by  Iberville,  and  with  him  were  his  two  broth- 
ers, Sauvolle  and  Bienville,  all  sons  of  Charles  Lemoyne.  A 
landing  was  made  on  the  Bay  of  Biloxi,  and  a  fort  built  on  a 
small  point  of  land  that  extends  out  into  the  bay.    In  Febru- 


*In  the  reign  of  Louis  the  Great,  9th  April,  1682,  Robert  Cavalier,  with 
Seigneur  de  Tonti,  Reverend  Father  Zenobio,  member  of  the  Recollect  order, 
and  twenty  Frenchmen,  first  navigated  this  river  from  the  village  of  the 
Illinois  and  made  the  passage  of  the  mouth,  9th  April,  1682. 


Outlines  op  History  of  Louisiana.  287 

ary  Iberville  and  his  brother,  Bienville,  accompanied  by 
Father  Athanase,  who  had  formerly  been  with  LaSalle,  went 
in  small  boats  to  the  Mississippi,  which  they  ascended  first  to 
the  village  of  the  Bayagoulas,  where  these  Indians  handed 
them  letters  and  other  relics  of  LaSalle  and  Tonti;  thence  to 
Pointe  Coupee,  which  they  named,  and  to  the  mouth  of  Red 
River.  Returning,  they  traversed  Lakes  Maurepas  and  Pont- 
chartrain,  naming  one  after  Count  Maurepas,  who  held  office 
under  their  sovereign  (and  afterwards  under  Louis  XV  and 
XYI),  and  the  other  after  Count  Pontchartrain,  who  was  the 
Minister  of  Marine.  On  December  7  of  the  same  year  another 
fleet  arrived,  bringing  letters  appointing  Sauvolle  as  the  first 
Governor  of  the  Colony,  and  Bienville  as  the  first  Lieutenant 
Governor.  In  1701  Governor  Sauvolle  died  of  fever,  and  was 
succeeded  by  Bienville.  On  the  14th  of  September,  1712, 
Louis  XIV  granted  to  Anthony  Crozat  a  charter  for  fifteen 
years,  with  the  exclusive  commerce  of  the  whole  Province, 
from  the  Gulf  to  the  Great  Lakes,  and  from  the  Allegheny 
Mountains  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the  west.  By  the  terms 
of  the  charter  Crozat  was  to  send  every  year  to  Louisiana  two 
ship  loads  of  colonists,  and,  after  nine  years,  to  assume  all  the 
expenses  of  the  Colonial  administration,  including  those  of  the 
army,  in  consideration  of  which  he  was  to  have  the  privilege 
of  nominating  the  officers  to  be  appointed  by  the  King.  In 
1717  Crozat,  finding  this  colonial  scheme  a  failure,  voluntarily 
surrendered  his  charter  to  the  King.  On  the  13th  of  August, 
1717,  a  Council  of  State  was  held  at  Versailles,  presided  over 
by  the  Duke  of  Orleans,  Regent  of  France  during  the  minority 
of  Louis  XV,  at  which  it  was  decided  that,  as  the  colonization 
of  Louisiana  was  a  commercial  undertaking,  it  should  be  con- 
fided to  a  company,  and  then  a  charter  was  granted  and  regis- 
tered by  the  Parliament  of  Paris  on  the  6th  of  September, 
1717,  under  the  name  of  the  Company  of  the  Indies.  To  this 
Mississippi  Company,  as  it  was  sometimes  called,  was  granted 
the  exclusive  privilege  of  trading  with  Louisiana  during 
twenty-five  years,  to  administer  the  Colony,  appoint  officers, 
and  maintain  an  army.  Its  leading  spirit  was  John  Law,  a 
smart  and  scheming  Scotchman,  long  domiciled  in  Paris.    All 


288  New  Orleans  Guide. 

the  lands,  coasts,  harbors  and  islands  in  Louisiana  were 
granted  to  the  company  on  the  condition  of  furnishing  to 
every  King  of  France,  on  his  accession  to  the  throne,  a  crown 
of  gold  of  the  weight  of  thirty  marks.  Louisiana  was  sup- 
posed to  be  a  Garden  of  Eden,  with  the  most  useful  fruits, 
and  a  new  Eldorado,  teeming  with  mines  of  gold,  silver  and 
precious  stones.  As  such  the  Province  was  placed  before  the 
public,  and  vast  sums  of  money  were  invested  in  the  shares  of 
the  company,  with  the  expectation  of  a  rich  harvest  of  divi- 
dends. Maladministration,  disease,  wars  with  the  Indians, 
caused  the  scheme  to  result  in  a  failure,  and  the  Mississippi 
bubble  bursted,  scattering  ruin  on  all  sides.  On  the  15th  of 
November,  1731,  the  Mississippi  Company,  finding  the  colony 
not  a  success,  after  existing  fourteen  years,  surrendered  their 
charter  to  the  King. 

Foundation  of  New  Orleans. 

Sailing  along  the  shores  of  Lake  Pontchartrain,  in  1718, 
Bienville  discovered  the  small  stream  now  called  Bayou  St. 
John,  and,  ascending  it,  encamped  for  the  night  on  the  Metai- 
rie  Ridge.  The  tract  of  country  lying  between  the  headwaters 
of  Bayou  St.  John  and  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  River  was 
selected  as  the  site  of  the  future  city.  This  space  was  then 
covered  with  a  primitive  forest,  and,  owing  to  the  annual  in- 
undations of  the  river,  was  swampy  and  marshy  and  cut  up 
with  a  thousand  small  ravines  and  pools  of  stagnant  water 
when  the  river  was  low.  Bienville  and  fifty  soldiers  started  to 
clear  the  ground  of  its  primitive  growth,  and,  unmolested  by 
the  Indians,  whose  sole  representative  was  an  old  Indian 
woman,  who  sang  an  uncouth  chant.  "The  Spirit  tells  me," 
she  sang,  "that  the  time  will  come  when,  between  the  river 
and  the  lake,  there  will  be  as  many  dwellings  for  the  white 
men  as  there  are  trees  standing  now.  The  haunts  of  the  red 
man  are  doomed,  and  faint  recollections  and  traditions  con- 
cerning the  very  existence  of  his  race  will  float  dimly  over 
the  memory  of  his  successors,  as  unsubstantial,  as  vague  and 
obscure  as  the  mist  which  shrouds,  on  a  winter  morning,  the 
bed  of  the  Father  of  Waters."    Bienville  undoubtedly  chose 


Outlines  of  History  of  Louisiana.  289 

the  site  on  the  narrowest  strip  of  land  between  the  river  and 
the  lake,  hoping  that  some  day  in  the  future  the  capital  would 
have  a  lake  and  river  front.  Two  plans  for  the  city  seem  to 
have  been  executed,  one  in  1719  by  De  la  Tour,  Chief  Engi- 
neer of  the  Province,  and  the  other  by  De  Pauger,  a  royal 
engineer  employed  by  the  Western  Company.  The  land  was 
laid  off  into  sixty-six  squares  of  three  hundred  feet  each, 
eleven  squares  in  length  along  the  river  and  six  in  depth.  The 
squares  were  separated  by  streets  and  were  each  divided  into 
twelve  lots,  of  which  ten  had  sixty  feet  front  by  one  hundred 
and  fifty  in  depth.  The  lots  were  divided  among  the  resident 
population.  In  1719  an  inundation  drove  the  inhabitants 
from  the  infant  city,  and  for  a  time  it  was  abandoned.  In 
1722  it  became  the  capital  of  the  colony,  and  at  that  time  con- 
tained two  hundred  inhabitants,  and  the  buildings  consisted 
of  about  one  hundred  log  cabins,  placed  without  much  order, 
a  large  wooden  warehouse,  two  or  three  dwellings  and  a  store- 
house, which  served  as  a  chapel.  The  whole  city  was  sur- 
rounded by  a  large  ditch  and  fenced  in  with  sharp  stakes, 
wedged  close  together.  In  1727  Gov.  Perier  built  in  front  of 
the  city  a  levee  or  embankment,  eighteen  hundred  yards  in 
length  and  eighteen  feet  in  width  on  top,  which  served  to 
protect  the  city  from  the  annual  overflows  of  the  ^lississippi 
River. 

Louisiana  Ceded  to  Spain. 

The  colony  of  Louisiana  continued  for  several  years  to  be- 
long to  France,  until  Louis  XV,  in  return  for  her  services  as 
an  ally  during  the  French  and  Indian  War,  ceded  Louisiana 
to  Spain  by  an  act  of  donation  at  Fontainebleau  of  1762. 
This  cession  was  accepted  by  Spain,  and  De  Ulloa  was  sent 
out  as  Governor  to  receive  the  transfer  of  the  colony.  The 
cession  of  the  country  was  violently  opposed  by  the  colonists, 
and  De  Ulloa  never  formally  took  possession,  but  departed 
with  his  troops,  after  contenting  himself  with  only  hoisting 
the  Spanish  flag  on  the  fort  at  Balize  and  remaining  there 
some  time.  The  state  of  affairs  was  reported  to  the  Spanish 
King,  Charles  III,  and  his  council,  led  bv  the  Duke  of  Alba, 


290  New  Orleans  Guide. 

decided  on  taking  the  colony  by  force.  A  second  expedition, 
consisting  of  twenty-four  men-of-war,  with  a  large  force  of 
troops,  commanded  by  General  Alexander  0  'Reilly,  a  Spanish 
officer  of  renown,  was  sent  in  1769  to  take  possession  of  the 
country. 

Spanish  Take  Possession. 

{Oayarre's  History  of  Louisiana.) 

On  the  15th  of  August,  1769,  the  French  Governor,  Aubrey, 
went  down  the  river  to  offer  his  respects  to  the  new  Spanish 
Governor,  O'Reilly,  who  was  on  his  way  up,  and  to  come  to 
an  understanding  with  him  as  to  the  manner  and  time  of  tak- 
ing possession  of  the  colony.  On  consultation,  they  fixed  the 
18th  for  that  ceremony.  On  the  16th  Aubrey  returned  to  New 
Orleans,  and  issued  a  proclamation  enjoining  the  inhabitants 
of  the  town  and  the  most  respectable  among  those  of  the  neigh- 
boring country  to  be  at  the  august  ceremony  and  to  he  ready 
to  present  themselves  to  His  Excellency,  Don  Alexandro 
O'Reilly,  in  order  to  assure  him  of  their  entire  submission,  and 
of  their  inviolate  fidelity  to  His  Catholic  Majesty.  On  the 
17th,  in  the  morning,  the  whole  Spanish  fleet,  numbering 
twenty-four  sail,  appeared  in  front  of  New  Orleans.  Immedi- 
ately all  the  necessary  preparations  were  made  for  landing, 
and  flying  bridges  were  dropped  from  the  vessels  to  the  bank 
of  the  river.  On  the  18th,  early  in  the  day,  the  French  Gov- 
ernor, with  a  numerous  train  of  officers,  came  to  compliment 
the  new  Governor,  who  went  ashore  in  company  with  his  vis- 
itors and  proceeded  with  them  to  the  house  which  was  destined 
for  him.  But  before  12  o'clock  O'Reilly  returned  to  his  fleet, 
in  order  to  prepare  for  the  landing  of  the  whole  of  his  forces. 

At  5  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  a  gun,  fired  by  the  flagship, 
gave  the  signal  for  the  landing  of  the  Spaniards.  The  French 
troops  and  the  militia  of  the  colony,  with  Aubrey  at  their 
head,  were  already  drawn  up  in  a  line  parallel  to  the  river, 
in  front  of  the  ships,  in  that  part  of  the  public  square  which 
is  nearest  to  the  church.  On  the  signal  being  heard,  the  Span- 
ish troops  were  seen  pouring  out  of  the  fleet  in  solid  columns, 
and  moving  with  admirable  precision  to  the  points  which  had 


Outlines  of  History  of  Louisiana.  291 

been  designated  to  them.  These  troops,  numbering  some  2,600 
men,  were  among  the  choicest  of  Spain,  and  had  been  picked 
by  O'Reilly  himself.  With  colors  flying  and  with  the  rapid- 
ity of  motion  of  the  most  practiced  veterans,  they  marched  on, 
battalions  after  battalions,  exciting  the  admiration  and  the 
awe  of  the  population  by  their  martial  aspect  and  their  bril- 
liant equipments.  The  heavy  infantry  drew  themselves  up  in 
perpendiculars,  on  the  right  and  left  wings  of  the  French, 
thus  forming  three  sides  of  a  square.  Then  came  a  heavy  train 
of  artillery  of  fifty  guns,  the  light  infantry  and  the  companies 
of  mountain  riflemen  (fusilieros  de  montanas),  with  the  cav- 
alry, which  was  composed  of  forty  dragoons  and  fifty  mounted 
militiamen  from  Havana.  All  these  corps  occupied  the  fourth 
side  of  the  square  near  the  river  and  in  front  of  the  French, 
who  were  drawn  up  near  the  Cathedral.  All  the  vessels  were 
dressed  in  their  colors,  and  the  riggings  were  alive  with  the 
Spanish  sailors  in  their  holiday  apparel.  On  a  sudden  they 
gave  five  long  and  loud  shouts  of  ''Viva  el  Rey— Long  live  the 
King,"  to  which  the  troops  in  the  square  responded  in  a  sim- 
ilar manner.  All  the  bells  of  the  town  pealed  merrily ;  a  sim- 
ultaneous discharge  from  the  guns  of  the  twenty- four  Spanish 
vessels  enveloped  the  river  in  smoke;  with  emulous  rapidity 
the  fifty  guns  that  were  on  the  square  roared  out  their  salute, 
making  the  ground  tremble  as  if  convulsed  with  an  earth- 
quake; all  along  the  dark  lines  of  the  Spanish  infantry  flashed 
a  sheet  of  fire,  and  the  weaker  voice  of  musketry,  also  shouting 
in  jubilation,  attempted  to  vie  with  the  thunder  of  artillery. 
All  this  pomp  and  circumstance  of  war  announced  that  Gen- 
eral 0  'Reilly  was  landing. 

He  soon  appeared  in  the  square,  where  he  was  received  with 
all  the  honors  due  to  a  Captain  General,  drums  beating,  ban- 
ners waving,  and  all  sorts  of  musical  instruments  straining 
their  brazen  throats,  and  by  their  wild  and  soul-stirring 
sounds  causing  the  heart  to  leap  and  the  blood  to  run  electri- 
cally through  the  hot  veins.  He  was  preceded  by  splendidly 
accoutered  men  who  bore  heavy  silver  maces,  and  the  whole 
of  his  retinue,  which  was  of  the  most  imposing  character,  was 
well  calculated  to  strike  the  imagination  of  the  people.    With 


292  New  Orleans  Guide. 

a  slightly  halting  gait  he  advanced  towards  the  French  Gov- 
ernor, who,  with  the  members  of  the  Council  and  all  the  men 
of  note  in  the  colony,  stood  near  a  mast,  which  supported  the 
flag  of  France.     Immediately  behind  O'Reilly  followed  the 
officers    of    the    colonial    administration    of    Louisiana,    Don 
Joseph  Loyola,  the  commissary  of  war  and  intendant;    Don 
Estevan  Gayarre,  the  contador,  or  royal  comptroller,  and  Mar- 
tin Navarro,  the  treasurer,  who  were  to  be  restored  to  their 
respective  functions,  which  had  been  interrupted  by  the  rev- 
olution.    ''Sir,"  said  O'Reilly  to  Aubrey,  "I  have  already 
communicated   to  you   the   orders   and  the   credentials  with 
which  I  am  provided,  to  take  possession  of  this  colony  in  the 
name  of  His  Catholic  Majecty,  and  also  the  instructions  of 
His  Most  Christian  Majesty  that  it  be  delivered  to  me.    I  beg 
you  to  read  them  aloud  to  the  people. ' '    Aubrey  complied  with 
this  request,  and  then,  addressing  the  colonists,  by  whom  he 
was  surrounded,  said:    "Gentlemen,  you  have  just  heard  the 
sacred  orders  of  their  Most  Christian  and  Catholic  Majesties 
in  relation  to  the  Province  of  Louisiana,  which  is  irrevocably 
ceded  to  the  crown  of  Spain.     From  this  moment  you  are  the 
subjects  of  His  Catholic  Majesty,  and  by  virtue  of  the  orders 
of  the  King,  my  master,  I  absolve  you  from  your  oath  of  fidel- 
ity and  obedience  to  His  Most  Christian  Majesty."     Then, 
turning  to  O'Reilly,  Aubrey  handed  to  him  the  keys  of  the 
gates  of  the  town.    The  banner  of  France  sank  from  the  head 
of  the  mast  where  it  waved,  and  was  replaced  by  that  of  Spain. 
Following  the  example  and  the  orders  of  Aubrey,  the  French 
shouted  five  times,   "Viva  el   Rey!— Long   live  the  King!" 
which  was  repeated  three  times  by  the  Spanish  troops,  who  re- 
commenced   their    firing    in    unison    with    the    fleet.     Then 
O'Reilly,  followed  by  the  principal  Spanish  officers,  and  ac- 
companied by  Aubrey  and  his  retinue,  proceeded  to  the  Cathe- 
dral, where  he  was  received  at  the  threshold  by  the  clergy  with 
all  the  honors  of  the  Pallium,  and  with  the  other  usual  solem- 
nities.    The  curate  or  vicar  general,  in  the  name  and  on  be- 
half of  the  people,  addressed  to  the  General  a  pathetic  har- 
angue, coupled  with  the  most  caressing  protestations  of  fidelity 
on  his  part.     The  General  answered  with  concise  eloquence, 


Outlines  of  History  of  Louisiana.  293 

declaring  his  readiness  to  protect  religion,  to  cause  the  minis- 
ters of  the  sanctuary  to  be  respected,  to  support  the  authority 
of  the  King  and  the  honor  of  his  arms,  to  devote  himself  to 
the  public  good,  and  to  do  justice  to  all.  He  then  entered  the 
church,  where  a  Te  Deum  was  sung,  during  which  the  troops 
and  the  fleet  renewed  their  discharges  in  token  of  rejoicing. 
When  the  pious  ceremony  was  over,  O'Reilly  and  Aubrey 
returned  to  the  public  square,  where  all  the  Spanish  troops 
filed  off  before  the  Governors  in  the  most  redoubtable  order 
and  equipage,  says  Aubrey,  in  one  of  his  dispatches,  and,  after 
having  saluted  them,  retired  to  their  respective  quarters. ' ' 

New  Orleans  Fortified  by  the  Spanish. 

In  1794  the  Spanish  Governor,  Baron  de  Carondelet,  forti- 
fied the  city  after  a  plan  drawn  by  himself.  His  object  was 
not  only  to  provide  for  a  defense  from  outside  enemies,  but  to 
place  his  guns  so  that  they  could  bear  upon  the  town  and  keep 
the  inhabitants  in  subjection.  Collot,  a  French  General,  who 
visited  New  Orleans  in  1796,  described  the  fortifications  as 
consisting  ''of  five  small  forts  and  a  great  battery.  On  the 
side  which  fronts  the  river  are  two  forts,  which  command  the 
river  and  the  road.  Their  shape  is  that  of  a  regular  pentagon, 
with  a  parapet  eighteen  feet  thick,  coated  with  brick,  with  a 
ditch  and  covered  way.  In  each  of  these  forts  are  barracks 
for  the  accommodation  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  men,  and  a 
powder  magazine.  Their  artillery  is  composed  of  a  dozen 
twelve  and  eighteen-pounders.  Between  these  two  forts— that 
is  that  on  the  right,  which  is  most  considerable— is  called  'St. 
Charles,'  the  other  'St.  Louis.'  In  the  rear  and  to  cover  the 
city  on  the  land  side,  are  three  other  forts.  There  is  one  at 
each  of  the  two  salient  angles  of  the  long  square  forming  the 
city,  and  a  third  between  the  two,  a  little  beyond  the  line,  so 
as  to  form  an  obtuse  angle.  These  three  forts  have  no  covered 
way,  and  are  not  revetted,  but  are  merely  strengthened  with 
friezes  and  palisades.  They  are  armed  with  guns,  and  have 
accommodations  for  one  hundred  men.  The  one  on  the  right 
is  called  Fort  Burgundy,  that  on  the  left  St.  Ferdinand,  and 
that  of  the  middle  St.  Joseph.    The  five  forts  and  the  battery 


294  New  Orleans  Guide. 

cross  their  fire  with  one  another,  and  are  connected  by  a  ditch 
of  forty  feet  in  width  by  seven  in  depth.  With  the  earth 
taken  ont  of  the  ditch  there  has  been  formed  on  the  inside  a- 
parapet  three  feet  high,  on  which  have  been  placed,  closely- 
serried,  a  line  of  twelve-feet  pickets.  Back  of  these  pickets  is 
a  small  causeway.  The  earth  has  been  cast  so  as  to  render 
the  slope  exceedingly  easy  and  accessible.  Three  feet  of  water 
is  always  kept  up  in  the  moats,  even  during  the  driest  season 
of  the  year,  by  means  of  ditches  communicating  with  a  drain- 
ing canal.  It  cannot  be  denied  that  these  miniature  forts  are 
well  kept  and  trimmed  up.  But,  particularly  on  account  of 
their  ridiculous  distribution,  and  also  on  account  of  their  want 
of  capaciousness,  they  look  more  like  playthings  intended  for 
babies  than  military  defenses.  For  there  is  not  one  which  can- 
not be  stormed,  and  which  five  hundred  determined  men  could 
not  carry  sword  in  hand.  Once  a  master  of  one  of  the  princi- 
pal forts,  either  St.  Louis  or  St.  Charles,  the  enemy  would 
have  no  need  of  minding  the  others,  because,  bringing  the 
guns  to  bear  upon  the  city,  it  would  be  forced  to  capitulate 
immediately,  or  be  burnt  up  in  less  than  an  hour  and  have  its 
inhabitants  destroyed,  as  none  of  the  forts  can  admit  of  more 
than  one  hundred  and  fifty  men.  We  believe  that  Monsieur 
de  Carondelet,  when  he  adopted  this  bad  system  of  defense, 
thought  more  of  securing  the  obedience  of  the  subjects  of  His 
Catholic  Majesty  than  of  providing  a  defense  against  the  at- 
tack of  a  foreign  enemy,  and,  in  this  point  of  view,  he  may  be 
said  to  have  completely  succeeded." 

Retrocession  of  Louisiana  to  France. 

A  secret  treaty  was  concluded  on  the  1st  of  October,  1800, 
at  St.  Ildephonso,  between  the  King  of  Spain  and  Napoleon 
Bonaparte,  for  the  French  Republic.  By  the  third  article  of 
this  treaty  the  Duke  of  Parma,  a  Prince  of  the  house  of  Bour- 
bon, was  put  in  possession  of  Tuscany,  erected  into  a  kingdom 
under  the  name  of  Etruria.  As  a  compensation  for  this  the 
Duke  of  Parma  ceded  to  France  the  Duchy  of  Parma  and  its 
dependencies,  and  Spain  ceded  Louisiana  back  to  France, 


Outlines  of  History  of  Louisiana.  295 

French  Resume  Possession  of  Louisiana. 

By  the  treaty  of  San  Ildephonso,  made  on  the  1st  of  Octo- 
ber, 1800,  Spain  engaged  herself  to  cede  Louisiana  to  France. 
This  treaty  was  kept  secret,  as  France,  who  was  then  at  war 
with  England,  feared  that  it  would  be  seized  by  that  power. 
France  sold  Louisiana  to  the  United  States,  and  appointed 
Laussat  Prefect  of  the  colony  for  the  intervening  time,  and 
also  commissioner  to  transfer  the  colony  to  the  United  States. 

On  the  30th  of  November  the  Marquis  of  Casa-Calvo  and 
Governor  Salcedo,  commissioners  on  the  part  of  Spain,  and 
Laussat,  commissioner  on  the  part  of  France,  accompanied  by 
a  large  retinue  of  the  clergy,  all  the  civil  and  military  officers 
in  the  employ  of  France  and  Spain,  and  many  other  persons 
of  distinction,  met  in  the  City  Hall,  where  Laussat  exhibited 
to  the  Spanish  commissioners  an  order  from  the  King  of  Spain 
for  the  delivery  of  the  colony,  and  his  credentials  from  the 
French  Government  to  receive  it.  Thereupon  the  keys  of  New 
Orleans  were  handed  to  Laussat,  and  Salcedo  and  Casa-Calvo 
declared  that  from  that  moment,  according  to  the  powers 
vested  in  them,  they  put  the  French  commissioners  in  posses- 
sion of  Louisiana  and  its  dependencies,  in  all  their  extent,  such 
as  they  were  ceded  by  France  to  Spain  and  such  as  they  re- 
mained under  the  successive  treaties  made  between  His  Cath- 
olic Majesty  and  other  Powers.  They  further  declared  that 
they  absolved  from  their  oath  of  fidelity  and  allegiance  to  the 
crown  of  Spain  such  of  His  Catholic  Majesty's  subjects  in 
Louisiana  as  might  choose  to  live  under  the  authority  of  the 
French  Republic.  A  record  was  made  of  these  proceedings 
in  French  and  Spanish,  and  the  three  commissioners  walked  to 
the  main  balcony,  where  the  Spanish  flag  was  saluted  by  a 
discharge  of  artillery  on  its  descent  from  a  pole  erected  on  the 
public  square  in  front  of  the  City  Hall.  That  of  the  French 
Republic  was  greeted  in  the  same  manner  on  its  ascent.  The 
square  was  occupied  by  the  Spanish  troops  and  some  of  the 
militia  of  the  colony.  It  was  remarked  that  the  militia  had 
mustered  up  with  difficulty,  and  did  not  exceed  one  hundred 
and  fifty  men.  It  was  an  indication  of  an  unfavorable  feel- 
ing, which  had  been  daily  gaining  strength,  and  which  Laussat 


296  New  Orleans  Guide. 

attributed,  in  his  dispatches,  to  the  intrigues  of  the  Spanish 
authorities.  Although  the  weather  had  been  tempestuous  in 
the  preceding  night  and  in  the  morning  and  continued  to  be 
threatening,  the  crowd  round  the  public  square  was  immense 
and  filled  not  only  the  streets,  but  also  the  windows  and  even 
the  very  tops  of  the  neighboring  houses. 

Sale  of  Louisiana  to  the  United  States. 

Bonaparte,  fearing  that  England  would  seize  Louisiana,  au- 
thorized his  ministers,  Barbe  Marbois  and  Talleyrand,  to  enter 
into  negotiations  with  the  United  States,  represented  by  Liv- 
ingston and  Monroe.  The  negotiations  resulted  in  a  treaty 
being  signed  at  Paris  on  the  30th  of  April,  1803,  by  which 
France  ceded  Louisiana  to  the  United  States  for  fifteen  millions 
of  dollars,  of  which  four  millions  were  to  be  devoted  to  the 
payment  of  what  was  due  by  France  to  the  citizens  of  the 
United  States.  When  Bonaparte  was  informed  of  the  conclu- 
sion of  the  treaty,  he  made  the  c  lebrated  remark,  ' '  This  ac- 
cession of  territory  strengthens  forever  the  power  of  the 
United  States,  and  I  have  just  given  to  England  a  maritime 
rival  that  will,  sooner  or  later,  humble  her  pride. ' ' 

Americans  Take  Possession  of  Louisiana. 

(From   Gayarre's  History  of  Louisiana.) 

"On  Tuesday,  the  20th  of  December,  1803,  the  French  Pre- 
fect, Laussat,  ordered  all  the  militia  companies  to  be  drawn 
up  under  arms,  on  the  public  square,  in  front  of  the  City  Hall. 
The  crowd  of  spectators  was  immense,  and  the  finest  weather 
favored  the  curiosity  of  the  public.  The  commissioners  of  the 
United  States,  Claiborne  and  "Wilkinson,  arrived  at  the  gates 
of  the  city  with  their  troops,  and,  before  entering,  were  recon- 
noitered,  according  to  military  usages,  by  a  company  of  the 
militia  grenadiers.  The  American  troops,  on  entering  the 
city,  were  greeted  with  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns  from  the 
forts,  and  formed  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  square,  facing  the 
militia.  At  the  City  Hall  the  Commissioners  of  the  United 
States  exhibited  their  powers  to  Laussat.  The  credentials 
were  publicly  read,  next  the  treaty  of  cession,  the  powers  of 


Outlines  of  History  of  Loxhsiana.  297 

the  French  commissioner,  and,  finally,  the  proces-verbal.  The 
Prefect  proclaimed  the  delivery  of  the  Province  to  the  United 
States,  handed  the  keys  of  the  city  to  Claiborne,  and  declared 
that  he  absolved  from  their  allegiance  to  the  French  Republic 
such  of  the  inhabitants  as  might  choose  to  pass  under  the  new 
domination.  Claiborne  now  rose,  and  offered  to  the  people  his 
congratulations  on  the  event  which  irrevocably  fixed  their  po- 
litical existence  and  no  longer  left  it  open  to  the  caprices  of 
chance.  He  assured  them  that  the  United  States  received 
them  as  brothers,  and  would  hasten  to  extend  to  them  a  partic- 
ipation in  the  invaluable  rights  forming  the  basis  of  their  own 
unexampled  prosperity,  and  that,  in  the  meanwhile,  the  peo- 
ple would  be  protected  in  the  enjoyment  of  their  liberty,  prop- 
erty and  religion ;  that  their  commerce  would  be  favored,  and 
their  agriculture  encouraged.  He  recommended  them  to  pro- 
mote political  information  in  the  Province,  and  to  guide  the 
rising  generation  in  the  paths  of  republican  energy  and  vir- 
tue. The  three  commissioners  then  went  to  one  of  the  balco- 
nies of  the  City  Hall.  On  their  making  their  appearance,  the 
French  flag,  that  was  floating  at  the  top  of  a  pole  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  square,  came  down,  and  the  American  flag  went  up. 
When  they  met  half  way  a  gun  was  fired  as  a  signal,  and 
immediately  the  land  batteries  began  their  discharges,  which 
were  responded  to  by  armed  vessels  in  the  river.  A  group  of 
American  citizens,  who  stood  at  a  corner  of  the  square,  waved 
their  hats  in  token  of  respect  for  their  country's  flag,  and  a 
few  of  them  greeted  it  with  their  voices ;  no  emotion  was  mani- 
fested by  any  other  part  of  the  crowd.  The  colonists  did  not 
appear  conscious  that  they  were  reaching  the  Latium  sides 
ubi  fata  quietos  ostendunt.  Laussat  then  presented  the  Amer- 
ican commissioners  to  the  militia,  and  delivered  to  them  the 
command  of  that  body.  Afterwards  Claiborne  and  Wilkinson 
proceeded  to  have  all  the  posts  and  guard-houses  occupied  by 
their  troops.  Thus  ended  the  French  domination,  if  it  can 
be  so  called,  twenty  days  after  it  had  begun.  The  Spanish 
Government  had  lasted  thirty-four  years  and  a  few  months." 


298  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Louisiana  as  a  Territory. 

Claiborne  was  appointed  Governor  of  the  Province  by  the 
President,  and  immediately  proceeded  to  organize  a  govern- 
ment. In  1804  an  act  was  passed  by  Congress  dividing  Louis- 
iana into  two  parts.  The  upper  portion  was  called  the  District 
of  Louisiana,  with  St.  Louis  for  a  capital,  and  the  lower  por- 
tion the  Territory  of  Orleans,  with  New  Orleans  as  the  capital. 
This  act  remained  in  force  until  1805,  when  a  "new  act  was 
passed  reorganizing  the  Territory  of  Orleans,  with  an  elective 
legislative  council. 

Louisiana  Admitted  to  the  Union  as  a  State. 

In  1812  Congress  called  a  Constitutional  Convention.  This 
Convention  adopted  a  Constitution,  modeled  after  that  of  Ken- 
tucky, and,  April  8,  1812,  Congress  passed  the  act  admitting 
Louisiana  into  the  Union  as  the  eighteenth  State.  A  portion 
of  West  Florida,  that  is,  the  country  east  of  the  Mississippi 
and  north  of  Lake  Pontchartrain,  was  annexed,  and  Louisiana 
thus  constituted,  and  comprising  41,347  square  miles,  became 
one  of  the  United  States  of  America,  and  Claiborne  was 
elected  the  first  Governor  of  the  new  State.  During  the  ad- 
ministration of  Governor  Claiborne  the  United  States,  being  at 
war  with  England,  an  expedition  was  sent  by  the  British 
against  New  Orleans,  which  resulted  disastrously  to  the  in- 
vaders. 

BATTLE  OF  NEW  ORLEANS. 

The  British  expedition  against  New  Orleans  rendezvoused  at 
Negril  Bay,  Jamaica,  under  Sir  Alexander  Cochrane,  on  the 
.24th  of  November,  1814.  It  consisted  of  at  least  fifty  sail,  car- 
rying more  than  a  thousand  guns.  On  the  9th  of  December 
the  flagship  Tonant,  the  same  which  was  captured  from  the 
French  at  Aboukir  by  Nelson,  led  the  way  into  Lake  Borgne 
and  came  in  sight  of  the  coast  of  Louisiana.  After  an  engage- 
ment with  a  small  flotilla  of  the  Americans  guarding  that  lake, 
the  British  determined  to  make  a  landing  near  the  mouth  of 
Bayou  Bienvenu,  a  small  stream  which  had  its  rise  in  the  rear 


300  New  Orleans  Guide. 

of  the  plantation  bordering  the  Mississippi  River  at  a  point 
about  six  miles  below  the  city  of  New  Orleans. 

Landing  of  the  British. 

On  the  morning  of  the  23d,  the  troops  were  embarked  on 
small  boats,  and,  ascending  the  bayou,  until  the  firm  land  was 
reached,  disembarked  and  marched  to  the  river,  which  they 
reached,  at  noonday,  without  General  Jackson  being  aware  of 
their  approach.  Had  General  Keane,  the  British  Commander, 
continued  advancing,  nothing  would  have  prevented  his 
marching  into  the  city,  six  miles  distant,  as  he  met  no  opposi- 
tion in  any  quarter.  General  Jackson,  the  American  Com- 
mander, gathered  his  little  forces  together  and  marched  down 
at  once  to  meet  the  enemy.  Halting  at  the  Rodriguez  Canal, 
about  two  miles  from  the  British  camp,  Jackson  made  this 
ditch,  running  perpendicularly  from  the  river  to  the  swamp, 
the  base  of  his  operations.  Night  came  on,  but  Jackson  at 
once  attacked  the  Biitish  and  a  skirmish  ensued,  the  result  of 
which  was  favorable  to  the  Americans.  The  English  con- 
tinued to  bring  up  i  einf orcements  of  men  and  guns  from  the 
fleet,  and  constant  skirmishing  took  place.  General  Sir 
Edward  Pakenham,  a  distinguished  veteran  of  the  peninsu- 
lar war,  and  a  brother-in-law  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  ar- 
rived and  assumed  command.  Extensive  preparations  were 
immediately  made  to  make  an  attack  on  the  American  lines. 

Jackson's  Lines. 

(From  Walker's  Jackson  and  Neiv   Orleans.) 

Jackson's  lines  had  been  daily  strengthened,  the  men 
working  incessantly  on  them,  widening  and  deepening  the 
ditch,  and  increasing  the  height  and  bulk  of  the  parapet.  On 
the  6th  (of  January),  some  of  the  more  scientific  officers  sug- 
gested to  Jackson  to  strengthen  the  right  by  throwing  up  a 
redoubt,  or  horn-work,  in  which  some  cannon  could  be  planted 
to  enfilade  the  front  of  his  lines,  and  defend  the  extreme  right 
of  his  position.  When  Jackson  saw  a  plan  of  the  work  he  con- 
demned it,  but  was  persuaded  to  allow  it  to  be  built.  It  was 
accordingly  thrown  up,  with  three  embrasures,  which  com- 
manded the  road,  the  river  bank  and  flanked  the  front  of  the 
lines.  A  shallow  ditch  that  had  run  dry  by  the  falling  of  the 
river,  surrounded  the  redoubt,  which  had  not  been  completed 
on  the  night  of  the  7th. 


Outlines  of  History  op  Louisiana.  301 

Let  us  survey  these  famous  lines  of  Jackson's.  Time  has 
spared  many  memorials  of  the  great  achievements  which  we 
relate.  The  scene  of  these  events  has  experienced  slighter 
changes  in  the  last  forty  years  than  the  arena  of  any  similar 
occurrences  in  this  land  of  change  and  progress.  As  if  to 
rebuke  the  deficiencies  of  our  historical  records,  nature  has 
preserved  (1860)  in  almost  their  original  state  the  physical 
characteristics  of  the  scenery  associated  with  the  most  glorious 
triumphs  of  the  American  arms.  The  reader  need  only  ac- 
quaint himself  with  the  leading  facts  of  the  campaign,  and 
then  proceed  six  miles  below  the  city,  he  may  take  his  position 
on  the  gallery  of  Macarte  where  Jackson  himself  stood  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  7th  January,  1815,  closely  observing  through 
a  telescope  the  movements  in  the  British  camp,  situated  two 
miles  down  the  river.  Here  he  will  command  a  splendid  view 
of  the  whole  scene  of  the  campaign.  He  will  perceive  the  em- 
bankment, somewhat  worn  by  time  and  the  elements,  behind 
which  Jackson's  men  stationed  themselves.  He  can  trace  it 
clearly  and  distinctly  from  the  river  to  the  swamp  in  which 
it  is  lost  to  view.  It  becomes  more  distinct  as  it  approaches 
the  swamp,  the  ground  near  the  river  having  been  more  ex- 
posed to  the  action  of  the  plow  and  the  tramp  of  men  and 
cattle.  The  river  having  caved  some  hundred  or  two  feet,  the 
line  of  the  levee  has  been  slightly  changed,  and  the  road  has 
worn  away  the  mound  and  the  vestiges  of  the  redoubt  on  the 
extreme  right.  There  is  a  handsome  villa,  quite  ancient,  too, 
in  its  aspect,  standing  near  the  road  in  the  centre  of  the  lines 
and  about  a  hundred  yards  from  the  ditch.  This,  however, 
has  been  built  since  the  war.  Chalmette's  buildings,  which 
were  destroyed  by  the  Americans  to  give  full  play  to  their 
artillery,  were  at  least  two  hundred  yards  in  the  rear  of  this 
edifice.  All  else  is  as  it  was  in  1815.  Jackson's  headquarters 
are  nearly  concealed  by  a  luxuriant  growth  of  the  graceful 
cedars  and  cypress,  which  here  assume  the  most  symmetrical 
proportions,  tapering  off  into  the  most  perfect  cones  and 
pyramids.  A  thick  orange  hedge  almost  excludes  a  glimpse 
into  the  handsome  garden,  where  bloom  all  the  flowers  and 
shrubs  of  this  rich  and  benignant  clime.  *  *  *  Tj^e  plain 
of  Chalmette,  thus  named  after  the  owner  of  the  ground  in 
front  of  Jackson's  lines,  has  the  same  dimensions  now  that  it 
had  then.  It  is  an  unbroken  level,  usually  when  not  in  cane 
covered  w^ith  a  luxuriant  growth  of  stubble  or  weeds,  and  cut 


302  New  Orleans  Guide. 

up  into  numerous  small  ditches.  Solitary  live  oaks.  r(?yerently 
spared  by  the  plowman,  loom  out  grandly  at  long  distances 
.apart,  from  the  gray  and  brown  plain.  The  swamp,  too,  has 
preserved  its  line  of  separation  from  the  fields.  It  presents 
the  same  contour  as  in  1815,  with  that  identical  bulge  or  pro- 
jection within  two  or  three  hundred  yards  of  Jackson's  lines, 
which  served  as  a  cover  for  the  British  in  their  advance. 
Near  the  swamp  and  within  it  for  some  distance,  the  mound 
erected  by  the  Tennesseans  is  almost  as  promient  and  clearly 
defined  as  it  was  when  the  gallant  bush-fighters  rested  their 
long  rifles  on  its  summit.  *  *  *  Jackson's  lines  were 
drawn  along  an  old  mill  race  which  separated  the  plantations 
of  Rodriguez  (Macarte's)  and  Chalmette.  In  the  early  days 
of  the  State,  mills  were  located  at  the  heads  of  canals,  which 
were  dug  from  the  river  towards  the  swamp,  and  through 
them  a  large  body  of  water  was  projected  from  the  river,  the 
surface  of  which  is  several  feet  higher  than  the  land  in  the 
rear.  Rodriguez's  Canal  had  long  been  abandoned  and  was 
nearly  filled  up  with  dirt  and  grass,  so  that  it  presented  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  simple  draining  ditch.  This  position  recom- 
mended itself  to  Jackson  by  the  fact  that  it  left  him  the 
smallest  space  between  the  river  and  the  swamp  to  defend. 
To  this  point  he  marched  his  army  on  the  24th,  and  ordered 
his  men  to  widen  the  canal  in  front,  throwing  up  the  dirt  into 
a  parapet.  Owing  to  the  irregular,  independent,  and  hurried 
manner  in  which  the  parapet  was  thrown  up,  the  men  being 
continuously  at  work  on  it  from  the  24th  December  to  the  7th 
January,  it  presented,  when  completed,  quite  an  irregular  ap- 
pearance. In  some  places  being  twent}^  feet  thick,  and  in 
others  of  scarcely  sufficient  solidity  to  resist  the  enemy 's  balls ; 
in  some  places  having  a  height  sufficient  to  conceal  the  tallest 
men,  and  in  others  hardly  reaching  the  belt  of  an  ordinary 
sized  person.  The  mound  was  composed  entirely  of  earth  dug 
from  the  canal  and  the  field  in  the  rear.  The  experiment  of 
using  cotton  bales  and  other  articles  had  been  discarded,  and 
the  elastic,  tenacious  soil  of  the  alluvium  preferred  to  all  other 
materials,  being  superior  for  such  uses  to  even  brick  and 
granite.  The  lines  extended  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  river 
to  the  woods,  and  then  penetrated  the  swamp  as  far  as  it  was 
deemed  possible  to  turn  them,  resting  on  the  extreme  on  an 
impassable   swamp.      That   part   of   the   lines   which   passed 


Outlines  of  History  of  Louisiana.  303 

through  the  woods  was  frail  and  rude,  not  being  made  to  resist 
artillery.    The  average  height  of  the  parapet  was  five  feet. 

American  Forces. 

Jackson's  whole  force  on  the  bank  of  the  river  amounted  to 
4,000  men,  but  his  lines  were  occupied  by  only  3,200.  The 
army  was  divided  into  two  divisions.  The  troops  from  the 
right  to  the  left  of  the  44th  were  under  command  of  Colonel 
Ross,  acting  Brigadier-General,  and  the  left  of  the  line  under 
Carroll  and  Coffee,  the  former  as  Major-General  and  the  latter 
as  Brigadier-General. 

British  Forges. 

The  British  army,  under  Sir  Edward  Pakenham,  now  con- 
sisted of  ten  thousand  of  the  best  soldiers  in  the  world,  which 
were  divided  into  three  brigades,  under  Generals  Lambert, 
Gibbs,  and  Keane.  Besides  these,  there  was  a  strong  force  of 
marines  and  sailors  from  the  fleet. 

Plan  of  Attack. 

The  plan  of  Pakenham  was  as  follows:  Colonel  Thornton, 
with  a  detachment  of  1,400  men  and  three  carronades,  was 
directed  to  embark  in  barges,  and  to  cross  the  river  during 
the  night  of  the  7th,  and  steal  upon  the  small  body  of  Ameri- 
cans posted  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river.  On  the  left  bank, 
Gibbs,  with  the  44th,  21st,  and  4th  regiments,  at  a  signal  to  be 
given,  would  storm  the  American  left,  where  it  was  deemed 
weakest ;  whilst  Keane,  with  the  93d,  95th,  and  the  light  com- 
panies of  the  7th,  43d,  and  some  of  the  West  India  troops, 
would  threaten  the  American  right— drawing  his  fire,  and 
taking  advantage  of  any  opportunity  that  might  occur  for  a 
blow  at  him.  On  the  left,  the  two  British  batteries  destroyed 
on  the  1st  were  to  be  restored,  and  armed  with  six  or  eight 
eighteen-pounders;  were  to  engage  and  keep  employed  the 
American  batteries  on  the  right,  and  thereby  prevent  them 
from  opening  on  the  storming  column.  The  advance  of  the 
latter  were  to  carry  fascines,  or  bundles  of  canes,  with  which 
to  fill  up  the  ditch,  and  ladders  on  which  to  mount  the 
parapet. 


304  New  Okleans  Guide. 


The  Attack. 


Before  day,  Gibbs'  and  Keane's  men  were  aroused  from 
their  lairs,  and,  forming,  advanced  in  line  some  distance  in 
front  of  the  pickets,  about  400  or  500  yards  from  the  Ameri- 
can lines.  Here  they  remained,  listening  in  anxious  suspense 
for  the  firing  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  Not  a  sound  could 
be  heard  across  the  calm  surface  of  the  great,  silent  Missis- 
sippi. A  thick  fog  involved  the  army,  and  shut  out  all  in 
front  and  rear  from  their  view.  The  minutes,  the  hours,  flew 
rapidly  by,  and  not  a  sound  of  Thornton  could  be  heard.  The 
truth  was,  that  gallant  officer  had  not  even  landed  his  men 
when  Gibbs  began  to  form  his  column  for  the  advance.  The 
mist  was  now  breaking.  The  American  flag,  on  its  lofty  staff 
in  the  centre  of  Jackson's  lines,  began  to  wave  its  striped  and 
starry  folds  above  the  vapory  exhalations  from  the  earth 
within  full  view  of  the  British  lines,  and  the  dark  mound, 
behind  which  the  guardians  of  that  standard  stood  with  arms 
at  rest,  became  faintly  visible.  On  the  mound  stood  many  a 
sharp-eyed  soldier,  painfully  stretching  his  vision  to  catch  the 
first  glance  of  the  enemy,  that  he  might  announce  his  ap- 
proach, or  have  the  first  fire  at  him.  This  honor  was  reserved 
to  Lieutenant  Spotts,  who,  perceiving  a  faint  red  line  several 
hundred  yards  in  front,  discharged  his  heavy  gun  at  it. 
Slowly  the  fog  rolled  up  and  thinned  off,  revealing  the  whole 
British  line,  stretching  across  two-thirds  of  the  plain.  At  the 
same  moment  a  rocket  shot  up  near  the  river,  another  on  the 
right,  near  the  swamp,  and  then  the  long  line  seemed  to  melt 
away  suddenly,  puzzling  the  American  gunners,  who  were  just 
bringing  their  pieces  to  bear  upon  it.  But  the  British  had 
only  changed  their  position,  and  then  deployed  into  column  of 
companies. 

The  Battle. 

Forming  his  column  of  attack  in  admirable  order,  Gibbs 
now  advanced  towards  the  wood,  so  as  to  have  its  cover,  the 
44th  in  front  followed  by  the  21st  and  4th.  The  column 
passed  the  redoubt  on  the  extreme  right  of  the  British,  near 
the  swamp,  where  the  men  of  the  44th  were  directed  to  pack 
the  ladders  and  fascines,  at  the  same  time  stacking  their 
muskets.  The  batteries  of  Spotts'  No.  6,  and  Garrique's  No. 
7,  and  the  Howitzer  No.  8,  now  began  to  play  upon  the  column 
with  some  effect.    There  w^s  no  time  tg  spare.    The  44th,  with 


Outlines  of  History  of  Louisiana.  305 

the  rest  of  the  column,  rushed  past  the  redoubt,  some  of  the 
men  picking  up  a  few  fascines  and  ladders  as  they  marched, 
and,  fronting  towards  the  American  lines,  advanced  steadily 
in  compact  column,  bearing  their  muskets  at  a  shoulder.  In 
his  advance,  Gibbs  obliqued  towards  the  wood,  so.  as  to  be 
covered  by  the  projection  of  the  swamp.  But  he  could  not 
elude  the  fire  of  the  batteries,  which  began  to  pour  round  and 
grape-shot  into  his  lines  with  destructive  effect.  It  was  at 
this  moment  whispered  through  the  column  that  the  44th  had 
not  brought  the  ladders  and  fascines.  Pakenham  hearing  it, 
rode  to  the  front,  and  discovered  that  it  was  but  too  true.  He 
immediately  called  out  to  Colonel  Mullens,  who  was  at  the 
head  of  his  regiment,  ' '  To  file  to  the  rear  and  proceed  to  the 
redoubt,  execute  the  order,  and  return  as  soon  as  possible  with 
his  regiment."  The  execution  of  this  order  produced  some 
confusion  in  the  column,  and  some  delay  in  its  advance. 
Gibbs,  indignant  at  the  disturbance  and  the  disobedience  of 
Mullens,  and  perceiving  his  meri  falling  around  him,  ex- 
claimed in  a  loud  voice,  ''Let  me  live  till  to-morrow  and  I'll 
hang  him  to  the  highest  tree  in  that  swamp. ' '  But  the  column 
could  not  stand  there  exposed  to  the  terrible  fire  of  the  Ameri- 
can batteries  waiting  for  the  44th,  and  so  Gibbs  ordered  them 
forward.  On  they  went,  the  21st  and  4th,  in  solid,  compact 
column,  the  men  hurrahing,  and  the  rocketers  covering  their 
front  with  a  blaze  of  their  combustibles.  The  American  bat- 
teries we  have  named  were  now  playing  upon  them  with  awful 
effect,  cutting  great  lanes  through  the  column  from  front  to 
rear,  and  huge  gaps  in  their  flanks.  These  intervals  were, 
however,  quickly  filled  up  by  the  gallant  red-coats.  The 
column  advanced  without  pause  or  recoil  steadily  towards 
Spotts'  long  eighteen,  and  Chauveau's  six.  Carroll's  men 
were  all  in  their  places,  with  guns  sighted  on  the  summit  of 
the  parapet,  whilst  the  Kentuckians,  in  two  lines,  stood  behind 
ready  to  take  the  places  of  the  Tennesseans  as  soon  as  their 
pieces  were  discharged,  thus  making  four  lines  in  this  part  of 
the  entrenchment.  There  they  stood,  all  as  firm  as  veterans, 
as  cool  and  calculating  as  American  frontiersmen.  All  the 
batteries  on  the  American  line,  including  Patterson's  marine 
battery  on  the  right  bank,  began  now  to  join  those  on  the  left 
in  hurling  a  tornado  of  iron  missiles  into  that  serried,  scarlet 
column,  which  shook  and  oscillated  like  a  huge  painted  ship 
tossed  on  an  angry  sea. 


306  New  Orleans  Guide. 

"Stand  to  your  guns,"  cried  Jackson,  as  he  glanced  along 
the  line;  'Mon't  waste  your  ammunition — see  that  every  shot 
tells."  Again  he  exclaimed,  "Give  it  to  them,  boys;  let  us 
finish  the  business  to-day."  The  confused  and  reeling  army 
of  red  coats  had  approached  within  two  hundred  yards  of  the 
ditch,  when  the  loud  command  of  Carroll,  "Fire!  fire!"  rang 
through  the  lines.  The  order  was  obeyed,  not  hurriedly,  ex- 
citedly, and  confused,  but  calmly  and  deliberately,  by  the 
whole  of  Carroll's  command,  commencing  on  the  left  of  the 
44th.  The  men  had  previously  calculated  the  range  of  their 
guns,  and  not  a  shot  was  thrown  away.  Their  bullets  swept 
through  the  British  column,  cutting  down  the  men  by  scores, 
and  causing  its  head  and  flank  to  melt  away,  like  snow  before 
a  torrent.  Nor  was  it  one,  or  several  discharges,  followed  by 
pauses  and  intervals ;  but  the  fire  was  kept  up  without  inter- 
ruption—the front  men  firing  and  falling  back  to  load.  Thus 
the  four  lines,  two  Tennesseans  and  two  Kentuckians,  sharing 
the  labor  and  glory  of  the  most  rapid  and  destructive  fusil- 
lade ever  poured  into  a  column  of  soldiers.  For  several  min- 
utes did  that  terrible,  incessant  fire  blaze  along  Carroll 's  front, 
and  that  rolling,  deafening,  prolonged  thunder  fill  the  ears 
and  confuse  the  sense  of  the  astounded  Britons. 

There  were  scarcely  more  than  fifteen  hundred  pieces 
brought  to  bear  on  the  British  column,  but  in  the  hands  of 
Tennesseans  and  Kentuckians  they  were  made  as  effective  as 
ten  times  that  number,  fired  by  regulars  of  the  best  armies  of 
Europe.  Against  this  terrible  fire,  Gibbs  boldly  led  his 
column.  It  is  no  reflection  upon  even  those  veterans  to  say 
that  they  halted,  wavered,  and  shrunk  at  times,  when  the 
crash  of  the  bullets  became  most  terrible,  when  they  were  thus 
shot  down  by  the  foe  whom  they  could  not  see.  But  the  gal- 
lant Peninsular  officers  threw  themselves  in  front,  inciting 
and  arousing  their  men  by  every  appeal,  and  by  the  most 
brilliant  examples  of  courage.  The  men  cried  out,  "Where 
are  the  44th?  If  we  get  to  the  ditch  we  have  no  means  of 
scaling  the  lines!"  "Here  come  the  44th!  Here  come  the 
44th ! ' '  shouted  Gibbs.  This  assurance  restored  order  and  con- 
fidence in  the  ranks.  There  came  at  last  a  detachment  of  the 
44th,  with  Pakenham  himself  at  their  head,  rallying  and  in- 
spiring them  by  appeals  to  their  ancient  fame— reminding 
them  of  the  gloiy  they  had  acquired  in  Egj^pt  and  elsewhere, 
and  addressing  them  as  his  "countrymen,"   (the  44th  were 


Outlines  of  Histoky  of  Louisiana.  307 

mostly  Irish).  The  men  came  up  gallantly  enough,  bearing 
their  ladders  and  fascines,  but  their  Colonel  was  far  in  the 
rear,  being  unable,  even  with  the  assistance  of  a  servant,  to 
reach  his  post  over  the  rough  field.  Pakenham  led  them  for- 
ward, and  they  were  soon  breasting  the  storm  of  bullets  with 
the  rest  of  the  column.  At  this  moment  Pakenham 's  bridle 
arm  was  struck  by  a  ball  and  his  horse  killed  by  another.  He 
then  mounted  the  small  black  Creole  pony  of  his  aid.  Captain 
McDougall,  and  pressed  forward.  But  the  column  had  ad- 
vanced now  as  far  as  it  could  get.  Most  of  the  regimental 
officers  were  cut  down.  Patterson,  of  the  21st ;  Brooks,  of  the 
4th ;  and  Debbrigs,  of  the  44th,  were  all  disabled  at  the  heads 
of  their  regiments.  There  were  not  officers  enough  to  com- 
mand, and  the  column  began  now  to  break  into  detachments, 
some  pushing  forward  to  the  ditch,  but  the  greater  part  fall- 
ing back  to  the  rear  and  to  the  swamp,  until  the  whole  front 
was  cleared.  They  were  soon  rallied  at  the  ditch,  were  re- 
formed, and  throwing  off  their  knapsacks,  advanced  again. 

Keane,  judging  very  rashly  that  the  moment  had  arrived 
for  him  to  act,  now  wheeled  his  line  into  column  (it  had  been, 
as  we  have  seen,  intended  as  a  reserve  to  threaten,  without 
advancing  upon  the  American  lines),  and,  with  the  93d  in 
front,  pushed  forward  to  act  his  part  in  the  bloody  tragedy. 
The  gallant  and  stalwart  Highlanders,  nine  hundred  strong, 
strode  across  the  ensanguined  field  with  their  heavy,  solid, 
massive  front  of  a  hundred  men,  and  their  bright  muskets 
glittering  in  the  morning  sun,  which  now  began  to  scatter  a 
few  rays  over  the  field  of  strife.  Onward  pressed  the  Tartan 
warriors,  regardless  of  the  concentrated  fire  of  the  batteries, 
which  now  poured  their  iron  hail  into  their  ranks.  At  a  more 
rapid  pace  than  the  other  column,  the  93d  rushed  forward  into 
the  very  maelstrom  of  Carroll's  musketry,  which  swept  the 
field  as  if  with  a  huge  scythe.  The  gallant  Dale,  colonel  of  the 
regiment,  fulfilled  his  prophecy,  and  fell  at  the  head  of  his 
regiment.  Major  Creagh  then  took  the  command.  Incited  by 
the  example  of  the  93d,  the  remnant  of  Gibbs'  brigade  again 
came  up,  with  Pakenham  on  their  left  and  Gibbs  on  the  right. 
They  had  approached  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  lines. 

At  this  moment  the  standard-bearer  of  the  93d  feeling 
something  rubbing  against  his  epaulette,  turned,  and  per- 
ceived through  the  smoke  the  small  black  horse  which  Paken- 
ham now  rode.    It  was  led  by  his  aid,  as  he  seemed  to  have  no 


308  New  Oeleans  Guide. 

use  of  his  right  arm.  In  his  left  hand  he  held  his  cap,  which 
he  waved  in  the  air,  crying  out,  "Hurrah!  Brave  High- 
landers ! "  At  this  instant  there  was  a  terrible  crash,  as  if  the 
contents  of  one  of  the  big  guns  of  the  Americans  had  fallen  on 
the  spot,  killing  and  wounding  nearly  all  who  were  near.  It 
was  then  that  the  ensign  of  the  93d  saw  the  horse  of  Paken- 
ham  fall,  and  the  General  roll  from  the  saddle  into  the  arms 
of  Captain  McDougall,  who  sprang  forward  to  receive  him. 
A  grape-shot  had  struck  the  General  on  the  thigh,  and  passed 
through  his  horse,  killing  the  latter  immediately.  As  Captain 
McDougall  and  some  of  the  men  were  raising  the  General, 
an-other  ball  struck  him  in  the  groin,  which  produced  an  im- 
mediate paralysis.  The  wounded  and  dying  General  was 
borne  to  the  rear,  and  laid  down  in  the  shade  of  a  venerable 
live  oak,  standing  in  the  centre  of  the  field,  beyond  the  reach 
of  the  American  guns.  In  a  few  minutes  the  gallant  young 
officer  breathed  his  last.  The  old  oak,  under  which  Paken- 
ham  yielded  up  his  soul,  still  stands,  bent  and  twisted  by  time 
and  many  tempests. 

Gibbs  fared  even  worse  than  Pakenham,  for  desperately 
wounded  shortly  after  the  fall  of  the  General-in-Chief,  he,  too, 
was  borne  to  the  rear,  and  lingered  many,  many,  hours  in 
horrible  agony,  until  the  day  after,  when  death  came  to  his 
relief.  Keane,  also,  fell  badly  wounded,  being  shot  through 
the  neck,  and  was  carried  off  the  field.  There  were  now  no 
field  officers  left  to  command  or  rally  the  broken  column. 
Major  Wilkinson,  Brigade  Major,  shouted  to  the  men  to  fol- 
low, and  push  forward. 

Followed  and  aided  by  Lieutenant  Lavack  and  twenty  men, 
he  succeded  in  passing  the  ditch,  and  had  clambered  up  the 
breastwork,  when  just  as  he  raised  his  head  and  shoulders 
over  its  summit,  a  dozen  guns  were  brought  to  bear  against 
him,  and  the  exposed  portions  of  his  body  were  riddled  with 
bullets.  He  had,  however,  strength  to  raise  himself,  and  fell 
upon  the  parapet. 

After  the  fall  of  Wilkinson,  the  men  who  followed  him 
threw  themselves  into  the  ditch.  Some  made  feeble  efforts  to 
climb  up  the  parapet,  but  it  was  too  slippery,  and  they  rolled 
into  the  fosse.  The  majority,  however,  were  satisfied  to  cower 
under  the  protection  of  the  entrenchment,  where  they  were 
allowed  a  momentary  respite  and  shelter  from  the  American 
fire.      The  remainder   of   the   column,   broken,   disorganized, 


Outlines  of  History  of  Loin^iAisrA.  309 

and  panic-stricken,  retired  in  confusion  and  terror,  each  regi- 
ment leaving  two-thirds  of  its  men  dead  or  wounded  on  the 
field.  The  93d,  which  had  advanced  with  nine  hundred  men 
and  twenty-five  officers,  could  muster  but  one  hundred  and 
thirty  men  and  nine  officers,  who  now  stole  rapidly  from  the 
bloody  field,  their  bold  courage  all  changed  into  wild  dismay. 
The  other  regiments  suffered  in  like  manner,  especially  the 
21st,  which  had  lost  five  hundred  men.  The  fragments  of  the 
two  gallant  brigades  fell  back  precipitately  towards  the  rear. 

At  this  moment,  Lambert,  hearing  of  the  death  of  Paken- 
ham,  and  the  severe  wounds  of  Gibbs  and  Keane,  advanced 
slowly  and  cautiously  with  the  reserve.  Just  before  he  re- 
ceived his  last  wound,  Pakenham  had  ordered  Sir  John  Tyn- 
dell,  one  of  his  staff,  to  order  up  the  reserve.  As  the  bugler 
was  about  to  sound  the  ' '  advance, ' '  by  order  of  Sir  John,  his 
right  arm  was  struck  wdth  a  ball,  and  his  bugle  fell  to  the 
ground.  The  order  was  accordingly  never  given,  and  the  re- 
serve only  marched  up  to  cover  the  retreat  of  the  broken 
columns  of  the  two  other  brigades. 

Thus,  in  less  than  twenty-five  minutes,  was  the  main  attack 
of  the  British  most  disastrously  repelled,  and  the  two  brigades 
nearly  destroyed.  On  their  left  they  had  achieved  a  slight  suc- 
cess, which  threatened  serious  consequences  to  the  American 
lines.  Here  the  advance  of  Keane 's  brigade,  consisting  of  the 
95th  Rifles,  the  light  infantry  companies  of  the  7th,  93d,  and 
43d,  and  several  companies  of  the  West  India  regiments — in 
all,  nearly  a  thousand  men,  under  the  gallant  and  active 
officer.  Colonel  Rennie,  of  the  21st,  had  crept  up  so  suddenly 
on  the  Americans  as  to  surprise  the  outpost  and  reach  the 
redoubt  about  as  soon  as  the  advance  guard  of  the  Americans, 
which  was  threatened  by  Gibbs'  advance,  had  fallen  back 
from  their  left,  and  was  now  hurrying  into  their  lines.  The 
British  were  so  close  upon  the  retiring  guard,  that  the  Ameri- 
cans were  unable  to  open  their  batteries  upon  them,  fearing 
they  w^ould  kill  some  of  their  oAvn  men.  At  last,  reaching  the 
redoubt,  the  Americans  clambered  over  the  embankment,  and 
the  leading  files  of  the  British  following,  succeeded  in  also 
gaining  the  interior,  where,  being  supported  by  others,  they 
engaged  into  a  hand-to-hand  fight  with  the  soldiers  of  the  7th 
Infantry,  whom  they  drove  out  into  the  lines,  which  were 
reached  by  a  plank  across  the  ditch  separating  the  redoubt 
from  the  main  lines.    But  they  did  not  hold  the  redoubt  long, 


310  New  Orleans  Guide. 

for  now  the  7th  Infantry  began  to  direct  its  whole  fire  upon 
the  interior  of  the  redoubt,  which  very  soon  made  it  too  hot 
for  the  British. 

Subtracting  the  centre  of  Jackson's  lines,  at  least  one-half 
of  Coffee 's  men,  who  never  fired  a  gun,  and  a  large  number  of 
Kentuckians,  whose  pieces  were  so  defective  as,  according  to 
the  testimony  of  some  persons,  to  place  the  Tennesseans  in 
more  danger  from  their  friends  and  supporters  in  the  rear 
than  from  their  enemies  in  front,  there  were  actually  less  than 
half  of  Jackson's  whole  forces  engaged  in  the  battle. 

It  was  eight  o'clock— two  hours  after  the  action  commenced 
—before  the  musketry  ceased  firing.  At  last  the  order  was 
passed  down  the  lines  to  ' '  cease  firing, ' '  and  the  men,  panting 
with  fatigue  and  excitement,  rested  on  their  arms.  As  soon 
as  the  artillery,  which  had  kept  up  the  fire  at  intervals  after 
the  musketry  ceased,  was  silenced,  the  smoke,  ascending  from 
the  field,  revealed  a  spectacle  that  sent  a  thrill  of  horror  along 
that  whole  line  of  exultant  victors.  The  bright  column  and 
long  red  lines  of  a  splendid  army,  which  occupied  the  field 
when  it  was  last  visible  to  the  Americans,  had  disappeared  as 
if  by  some  supernatural  agency.  Save  the  hundreds  of  miser- 
able creatures  who  rolled  over  the  field  in  agony,  or  crawled 
and  dragged  their  shattered  limbs  over  the  muddy  plain,  not  a 
living  foe  could  be  seen  by  the  naked  eye.  The  space  in  front 
of  Carroll's  position,  for  an  extent  of  two  hundred  yards,  was 
literally  covered  with  the  slain.  The  course  of  the  column 
could  be  distinctly  traced  in  the  broad,  red  line  of  the  victims 
of  the  terrible  batteries  and  unerring  guns  of  the  Americans. 
They  fell  in  their  tracks;  in  some  places  whole  platoons  lay 
together,  as  if  killed  by  the  same  discharge.  In  the  ditch, 
there  were  no  less  than  forty  dead,  and  at  least  a  hundred 
who  were  wounded,  or  who  had  thrown  themselves  into  it  for 
shelter. 

British  Loss. 

In  estimating  the  loss  of  the  British  in  this  disastrous  affair, 
we  are  met  by  several  conflicting  statements.  That  estimate 
Avill  show  that  the  loss  sustained  in  the  attack  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Mississippi  was  the  severest  ever  sustained  in  any  battle 
by  the  British  army.  Deducting  the  reserve,  Lambert 's,  which 
was  not  under  fire,  the  14th  Dragoons,  who  guarded  the  camp 
and  hospital,  and  Thornton's  command,  there  could  not  have 


Outlines  of  Histoky  of  Louisiana.  311 

been  more  than  six  thousand  men  engaged  in  the  attack  on 
Jackson 's  lines.  Of  these,  according  to  the  estimate  of  Colonel 
Hayne,  who  was  designated  by  Jackson  for  this  duty,  there 
were  at  least  2,600  placed  hors  de  combat,  to-wit :  killed,  700 ; 
wounded,  1,400;  prisoners,  500. 

American  Loss. 

The  aggregate  loss  was  eight  killed  and  thirteen  wounded, 
which  number  compared  with  that  of  the  British,  exhibits  a 
disparity  without  a  parallel  in  ancient  or  modern  warfare. 

Retreat  of  the  British. 

After  the  battle  of  the  Eighth,  Lambert  was  not  long  in 
arriving  at  the  conclusion  that  the  expedition  had  signally 
failed,  and  all  that  was  left  for  him  to  do  was  to  collect  the 
fragments  of  the  army  and  retire  as  speedily  as  possible  from 
the  scene  of  so  many  sad  disasters  and  painful  associations. 
To  retire  as  they  had  come,  in  boats,  was  impracticable.  To 
meet  this  exigency,  he  directed  the  engineers  to  extend  the 
road  which  ran  some  distance  along  the  Bayou,  through  the 
swamp  to  the  lake  shore,  keeping  as  near  as  possible  to  the 
bank  of  the  Bayou.  Accordingly,  the  whole  army  on  the  night 
of  the  18th,  was  silently  and  stealthily  formed  in  column,  the 
engineers,  sappers,  and  miners  in  front.  The  camp  fires  were 
alighted  anew ;  the  pickets  were  all  stationed  as  usual.  Each 
sentinel  was  prepared  with  a  stuffed  paddy  to  place  in  his 
stead.  The  pickets  were  directed  to  form,  as  the  column 
reached  the  Bayou,  into  a  rear  guard  and  follow  the  army. 
Thus,  while  darkness  covered  the  field,  the  enemy  took  up 
their  line  of  march,  in  silence  and  dread.  They  marched  all 
night,  and  just  at  the  break  of  day  reached  the  shores  of  Lake 
Borgne.  Here  they  remained  waiting  for  the  boats  until  the 
27th,  when  the  whole  army  re-embarked  and  finally  reached 
the  fleet,  sixty  miles  off  the  coast.  On  the  19th,  Jackson 
ordered  Colonels  Delaronde  and  Kemper  to  harass  the  enemy's 
rear;  but,  owing  to  the  precaution  of  the  British  to  protect  the 
rear  with  redoubts,  these  attempts  were  not  productive  of  any 
advantage. 

LOUISIANA  AS  A  STATE. 

After  the  defeat  of  the  British  and  their  retreat,  peace  was 
declared  and  immediately  trade  revived  and  internal  improve- 


312  New  Orleans  Guide. 

ments  were  commenced.  The  culture  of  sugar  developed  itself 
every  year,  and  immigration  set  in.  The  State  and  city  in- 
creased in  population,  and  continued  to  grow  in  prosperity 
until  the  civil  war  was  declared. 

Secession  of  the  State. 

On  January  26th,  1861,  the  Ordinance  of  Secession  was 
adopted  by  the  Convention  and  Louisiana  joined  the  Confed- 
erate States  of  America.  Many  regiments  of  troops  were  sent 
to  the  Confederate  army  and  took  their  share  of  the  perils  of 
the  battlefield. 

Federal  Forces  Seize  the  State. 

In  April,  1862,  the  Federal  fleet,  under  Admiral  Farragut, 
passed  the  forts  and  batteries  on  the  river  and  New  Orleans 
was  captured.  The  city  was  held  by  United  States  forces,  and 
from  it  at  different  times  were  sent  expeditions  to  the  interior. 
These  expeditions  were  not  successful  in  the  State,  as,  with  the 
exception  of  New  Orleans  and  its  immediate  vicinity,  it  re- 
mained in  the  hands  of  the  Confederates.  On  the  approach  of 
the  Federal  forces  the  capitol  was  evacuated  by  the  State 
officers  and  the  capital  transferred  to  Shreveport.  In  1864  a 
convention  was  called  at  New  Orleans  under  the  protection  of 
the  Federal  army  to  form  a  new  Constitution. 

Cond/tjon  of  NEvr  Orleans  Before  and  After  tut:   War. 

New  Orleans  was  in  a  ini  st  prcsperou-  condition  l)efore  the 
Civil  War,  as  large  crops  of  sugar  and  cotton  were  received 
from  the  interior  and  exported,  with  tobacco  and  othei'  pro- 
ducts. The  natural  increase  of  slaves  enabled  planters  tr»  open 
more  land  and  to  raise  larger  crops,  which  poured  into  Ntw 
Orleans  and  drew  from  abroad  a  steady  stream  of  gold.  The 
Civil  War  caused  this  to  cease,  and  the  old  and  young  took  up 
arms,  thinking  that  the  war  was  to  last  only  sixty  days.  'Ilio 
city  captured,  they  were  cut  off,  and  the  war  was  prolonged 
four  long  years,  during  which  city  affairs  stagnated.  The 
war  ended,  the  active  population  returned  to  find  the^'r  for- 
tunes wrecked  and  nearly  all  the  banks  broken.  The  cessation 
pf  war  and  the  opening  of  the  country,  wherein  was  stored 
much  cotton,  soon  revived  business  and  the  trade  flourished. 

The  Constitutiou  of  1864,  adopted  July  23,  1864,  abolished 


Outlines  of  Histoby  of  Louisiana.  313 

legally  slavery  in  Louisiana,  and  a  State  government,  under 
this  Constitution,  was  operated  within  the  lines  of  the  Federal 
forces.  The  greater  portion  of  the  State  never  recognized  it 
and  considered  the  government  at  Shreveport  of  Governor 
Allen,  and  which  had  all  the  archives  and  was  operated  under 
the  Constitution  of  1852,  as  the  legitimate  and  de  facto  gov- 
ernment of  the  State. 

With  the  surrender  of  the  Trans-Mississippi  Department  to 
the  Federal  forces,  in  1865,  the  Allen  government  dissolved 
and  the  entire  State  came  under  the  sway  of  the  government 
created  by  the  Constitution  of  1864,  of  which  Acting  Governor 
Wells  was  the  head. 

The  Civil  War  ended,  a  State  election  was  held  in  1865  and 
Governor  Wells  was  elected  governor  and  Albert  Voorhies  lieu- 
tenant governor.  The  Legislature  met  in  1866  and  passed 
many  laws  to  put  the  government  into  operation  and  to  rebuild 
the  levees.  The  State  and  the  whole  South,  instead  of  being 
quieted  down,  were  soon  disturbed  by  violent  Northern  agita- 
tors, who,  released  from  service  in  the  army  and  without  occu- 
pations, sought  to  stir  up  the  negroes  against  the  whites  not 
to  accept  the  new  order  of  things.  The  Southern  Legislatures 
vied  with  each  other  in  honest  and  sincere  efforts  to  pacify  and 
rebuild  up  the  country  and  to  become  loyal  to  the  Union.  In 
Louisiana,  after  the  adjournment  of  the  Legislature,  the  vacil- 
lating course  of  Governor  Wells  countenanced  the  reassem- 
bling of  a  portion  of  the  convention  that  had  framed  the  Con- 
stitution of  1864.  These  ex-members  met  in  July,  1866  at  the 
Mechanics'  Institute  (Tulane  Hall),  then  used  as  a  State  Cap- 
itol, in  New  Orleans,  and  proceeded  to  organize  with  a  view  of 
creating  a  new  State  government.  The  Democrats  of  Louis- 
iana were  opposed  to  this,  and  acting  under  an  old  law  in 
reference  to  treasonable  assemblies  against  the  State,  induced 
the  Sheriff,  with  the  aid  of  the  city  police,  to  disperse  the 
meeting.  The  members  had  called  around  them  a  number  of 
negroes  and  made  a  stand.  The  general  commanding  the  Fed- 
eral troops  sympathized  with  the  movement,  and  a  riot  fol- 
lowed in  which  several  negroes  were  killed  and  which  became 
known  in  history  as  the  ''July  riots."  The  exaggerated  ac- 
counts of  the  slaughter  of  negroes  and  so-called  Union  men 
fired  the  Northern  people  and  especially  the  extreme  wing  of 
the  Republican  party.  Congress,  under  the  lead  of  Thaddeus 
Stevens,  passed  the  Reconstruction  Acts,  and  military  govern- 


314  New  Orleans  Guide! 

ment  was  established  in  the  South.  Major  General  Sheridan 
was  appointed  to  command  the  military  department  in  which 
Louisiana  was  situated,  and  dismissed  GovernorWells  and  in 
his  place  appointed  B.  F.  Flanders.  Sheridan  was  succeeded 
in  1868  by  Major  General  W.  S.  Hancock,  who  removed  Gov- 
ernor Flanders  and  appointed  Joshua  Baker  governor. 

Under  a  restricted  registration  of  voters,  which  excluded 
many  who  had  borne  arms  against  the  United  States,  and  ad- 
mitted the  negroes  to  vote,  a  convention  was  called  to  frame  a 
new  Constitution.  The  result  was  that  the  Constitution  of 
1868  was  adopted,  March  11,  1868,  and  by  an  election  under  it 
Henry  Clay  Warmoth  was  declared  elected  governor.  Con- 
gress then  approved  of  the  Constitution  and  admitted  the  Rep- 
resentatives of  Louisiana. 

Then  ensued  an  era  of  wild  extravagance  and  corruption 
under  the  domination  of  negroes,  the  Governor  having  lost  all 
control,  and  the  debt  of  the  State  was  increased  to  nearly  $60,- 
000,000.  This  state  of  affairs  existed  until  1872,  when  a  vio- 
lent political  contest  between  the  Republicans  and  Democrats 
took  place.  Kellogg  was  nominated  by  the  Republicans  and 
John  McEnery  by  the  Democrats.  The  legal  machinery  of  the 
State  was  under  the  control  of  Governor  Warmoth,  a  Liberal 
Republican,  who  sided  with  the  Democrats,  and  he  called  the 
Legislature  in  extra  session.  The  Republicans,  seeing  that  the 
Legislative  Returning  Board  would  count  them  out,  resolved 
on  extraordinary  measures  and  invoked  the  aid  of  the  Federal 
courts  by  their  candidate  for  lieutenant-governor  asking  for  an 
injunction  to  restrain  certain  members  of  the  new  Legislature 
from  acting.  The  United  States  District  Judge  (Durell) 
issued  an  order  at  midnight  for  the  United  States  Marshal  to 
seize  the  State  Capitol  and  not  to  allow  certain  Democratic 
members  to  enter.  Accordingly  the  United  States  Marshal 
seized  the  State  Capitol,  with  United  States  troops,  and  car- 
ried out  the  "midnight  order."  The  new  Legislature,  com- 
posed of  self-elected  Republicans,  met  and  impeached  Gov- 
ernor "Warmoth,  Pinchback,  the  president  of  the  Senate,  whose 
mandate  had  expired,  assuming  the  governorship.  The  Legis- 
lature then  proceeded  to  count  in  Kellogg  as  governor,  and 
President  Grant  deciding  that  the  proceedings  were  regular 
recognized  him.  Kellogg  set  about  to  restore  order  in  the 
State  finances  by  the  creation  of  a  Funding  Board,  which 
finally  scaled  the  State  debt. 


Outlines  of  History  of  Louisiana.  315 

A  spirit  of  unrest  and  protest  against  this  government  con- 
tinued to  exist  until  September  14,  1874,  when  the  people  arose 
in  arms  and  formed  the  White  League.  Kellogg  was  notified 
to  leave  the  State  and  took  refuge  in  the  United  States  Cus- 
tomhouse, his  troops  having  been  defeated  at  the  head  of  Canal 
street.  McEnery  was  installed,  but  after  a  few  days  was  com- 
pelled to  retire  by  the  United  States  troops. 

In  1876  NichoUs  was  the  candidate  of  the  Democrats  for 
governor  and  Packard  of  the  Republicans.  A  quorum  of  the 
Legislature  met  at  Odd  Fellows'  Hall  and  declared  Nicholls 
elected  governor.  Governor  Nicholls  then  appointed  his  Su- 
preme Court  and  other  State  officers  and  proceeded  by  force 
to  install  his  government,  while  Packard  and  his  Legislature 
remained  shut  up  in  the  State  House. 

The  operations  of  the  Republican  governments  throughout 
the  South  had  been  so  corrupt  and  disgraceful  that  the  senti- 
ment in  the  North  and  West  changed  and  a  desire  for  peace 
and  a  restoration  of  the  government  to  the  hands  of  the  white 
tax-payers  arose.  The  presidential  contest  of  Tilden  and 
Hayes  took  place  and  by  a  compromise  the  Returning  Board  of 
Louisiana  declared  Nicholls  (Dem.)  elected  governor,  but  gave 
the  electoral  vote  of  Louisiana  to  Hayes  (Rep.)  for  President. 

The  affairs  of  the  State  were  gradually  put  in  order  and  the 
rate  of  taxation  in  the  City  of  New  Orleans,  which  had  reach- 
ed 5  per  cent.,  was  reduced.  A  convention  was  called  and  the 
Constitution  of  1879  was  adopted,  July  23,  1879,  which  was 
amended  in  1882,  1886,  1890  and  1902. 

Louis  A.  Wiltz  succeeded  Nicholls  and  in  1881  died  in  office. 
Lieutenant  Governor  S.  D.  McEnery  became  governor  and  at 
the  end  of  his  term  was  elected  governor  and  installed  in  1889. 

In  1891  the  great  question  of  prolonging  the  charter  of  the 
Louisiana  State  Lottery  came  before  the  people  and  developed 
into  a  bitter  contest,  dividing  the  Democrats  into  "  pro-lottery- 
ites ' '  and  ' '  anti-lotteryites. ' '  The  Lottery  Company  offered  to 
donate  to  the  State  a  large  sum  every  year.  In  the  course  of 
some  years  this  would  have  amounted  to  several  millions  of 
dollars,  which  were  to  be  devoted  to  public  education  and 
other  worthy  objects.  The  fight  became  very  bitter,  and  when 
the  company  was  forbidden  the  use  of  the  United  States  mails 
it  finally  abandoned  the  contest.  Foster  was  the  candidate  of 
the  "antis,"  and  after  the  Lottery  Company  gave  up  the  con- 
test its  supporters,  feeling  themselves  aggrieved  by  the  de- 


316  New  Orleans  Guide. 

cision  of  a  mutual  political  arbitration  commission  and  with 
the  aid  of  other  dissatisfied  Democrats,  placed  S.  D.  McEnery 
in  nomination  for  governor.  Foster  was  elected  and  was  in- 
stalled in  1892,  and  was  re-elected  and  installed  in  1896,  all 
the  Democratic  elements  having  fused,  except  a  few,  who 
formed  a  white  Republican  party  and  nominated  Pharr  as 
their  candidate. 

Foster  gave  the  State  a  vigorous  and  wise  administration  in 
which  party  lines  were  well  drawn.  Peace,  contentment  and 
prosperity  reigned  and  Louisiana  and  the  credit  of  the  State 
improved  with  great  bounds.  The  State  debt  was  reduced  and 
during  his  administration  there  were  but  few  defaulters  in  the 
collection  of  the  State  revenues.  Governor  Foster  was  suc- 
ceeded in  1900  by  W.  W.  Heard,  and  afterwards  elected  to  the 
United  States  Senate. 

Louisiana  had  now  changed  so  much  that  it  was  found  neces- 
sary to  have  a  new  Constitution,  and  a  Constitutional  Conven- 
tion, with  limited  powers,  was  called  in  1898,  which  adopted, 
on  May  12,  1898,  the  Constitution  of  1898,  and  amended  it  in 
1899,  1900  and  1902. 

Taxation  has  been  reduced,  as  well  as  the  State  debt,  which 
now  amounts  to  $10,887,000,  and  State  4  per  cent,  bonds  are 
selling  at  108. 

The  total  assessed  value  of  property  in  the  State  is  (1902) 
$315,583,468,  and  the  State  population  has  increased  from 
76,556  in  1810  to  1,381,625  in  1900. 

Several  reforms  were  instituted  by  the  Constitution  of  1898, 
the  principal  being  the  abolition  of  the  Penitentiary  lease  sys- 
tem, which  had  been  a  disgrace  to  the  State,  and  Louisiana, 
under  the  wise  and  able  administration  of  Governor  Heard,  is 
assuming  in  the  front  rank  of  States  a  position  of  honor. 

GOVERNORS  OF  LOUISIANA. 

French  Domination. 

April  9,  1682,  to  August  18,  1769. 

The  Province  of  Louisiana  was  ruled  by  a  governor  appoint- 
ed by  the  King  of  France  and  under  the  supervision  of  the 
Ministry  of  the  Marine. 

Antoine  Lemoyne  de  Saiovolle,  Dec.  7,  1699,  to  July  2,  1701. 


Outlines  of  History  of  Louisiana.  317 

Jean  Baptiste  Lemoyne  de  Bienville,  ad  interim*  July  22, 
1701,  to  May  17,  1713. 

Lamothe  Cadillac,  May  17,  1713,  to ,  1716. 

Jean  Baptiste  Lemoyne  de  Bienville,  ad  interim, ,  1716, 

to  March  9,  1717. 

De  VEpinay,  March  9,  1717,  to  March  9,  1718. 

Jean  Baptiste  Lemoyne  de  Bienville,  March  9,  1718,  to  Jan. 
16,  1724. 

Boishriant,  ad  interim,  Jan.  16,  1724,  to . 

Perier,  Aug.  9,  1726,  to ,  1733. 

Jean  Baptiste  Lemoyne  de  Bienville, ,  1733,  to  May  10, 

1743. 

Marquis  de  Vaudreuil,  May  10,  1743,  to  Feb.  9,  1753. 

Baron  de  Kerlerec,  Feb.  9,  1753,  to  June  29,  1763. 

D'Ahhadie,  June  29,  1763,  to  Feb.  4,  1765. 

A'uhry,  Feb.  4,  1765,  to  Aug.  18,  1769. 

Ulloa  appointed  Governor  by  the  Spanish  crown,  arrived  March  5,  17G6, 
but  meeting  with  resistance  at  New  Orleans,  occupied  Balize  and  some  other 
ports,  quasi  governed  the  Colony  through  Aubry,  the  French  Governor,  from 
which  date  the  Spanish  crown  assumed  all  the  colonial  expenses.  Ulloa  sailed 
away  November  1,  1768,  and  the  formal  transfer  from  France  to  Spain  did 
not  ake  place  till  August  18,  1769. 


Spanish  Domination. 

August  18,  1769,  to  November  30,  1803. 

Under  the  Spanish  domination  the  Province  was  attached  to 
the  captain  generalship  of  Cuba,  but  the  administration  was 
more  or  less  under  the  council  of  the  Indies  in  Spain.  The 
Governor  was  appointed  by  the  King  and  the  government  ad- 
ministered in  his  name. 

De  Ulloa  (never  exercised  his  authority),  March  5,  1766,  to 
Nov.  1,  1768. 

Alexandro  O'Reilly,  Aug.  18,  1769,  to  Oct.  29,  1770. 

Louis  de  Unzaga,  Oct.  29,  1770,  to  Feb.  1,  1777. 

Bernado  de  Galvez,  Feb.  1,  1777,  to ,  1785. 

Estevan  de  Miro,  ad  interim, ,  1785,  to  Jan.  1,  1792. 

Baron  de  Carondelet,  Jan.  1,  1792,  to  Aug.  1,  1797. 

Manuel  Gayoso  de  Lemos,  Aug.  1,  1797,  to  July  18,  1799. 

Marquis  de  Casa  Calvo,  ad  interim,  July  18,  1799,  to  June 
15,  1801. 
-    Juan  Manuel  de  Salcedo,  June  15,  1801,  to  Nov.  30,  1803. 

♦DeMuys  appointed,  but  never  came  to  the  Colony. 


318  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Second  French  Domination. 

November  30,  1803,  to  December  20,  1803. 

Laussat  was  appointed  by  Consul  Bonaparte  as  a  commis- 
sioner on  the  part  of  the  French  Republic,  to  receive  the  Prov- 
ince from  the  Spanish  Governor  and  to  transfer  it  to  the 
United  States.  During  this  interval  he  acted  as  Prefect  of 
Louisiana. 

Laussat,  Prefect,  Nov.  30,  1803,  to  Dec.  20,  1803. 

American  Domination. 

December   20,   1803,   to  October   1,   1804. 

When  the  United  States  took  possession  of  Louisiana,  Presi- 
dent Jefferson  appointed  William  Charles  Cole  Claiborne  Gov- 
ernor of  the  Province. 

William  Charles  Cole  Claiborne,  Dec.  20,  1803,  to  Oct.  1, 
1804. 

First  Territorial  Government. 

October  1,  1804,  to  November  1,  1805. 

By  Act  of  Congress  of  March  26,  1804,.  the  Province  of 
Louisiana  was  divided  into  two  territories,  one  called  the  ^ '  Ter- 
ritory of  Orleans, ' '  and  comprising  the  present  State  of  Louis- 
iana, and  the  other  the  "District  of  Louisiana,"  comprising 
all  the  upper  portion  of  the  Province,  now  Missouri  and  other 
States.  William  Charles  Cole  Claiborne  was  appointed  by  the 
President  Governor  of  the  Territory  of  Orleans,  and  on  his 
recommendation  the  President  appointed  a  legislative  council 
of  thirteen  inhabitants,  as  provided  for  bv  the  Act  of  Congress. 

William  Charles  Cole  Claiborne,  Oct.  1,  1804,  to  Nov.  1, 
1805. 

Second  Territorial  Government. 

November  1,  1805,  to  April  30,  1812. 

The  Territory  of  Orleans  was  reorganzed  by  an  Act  of  Con- 
gress, approved  March  2,  1805.  In  accordance  with  the  Act,  a 
Legislature,  composed  of  an  Upper  and  Lower  House,  was 
elected,  and  William  Charles  Cole  Claiborne  appointed  Gov- 
ernor by  the  President. 

William  Charles  Cole  Claiborne,  Nov.  1,  1805,  to  April  30, 
1812. 


Outlines  of  History  of  Louisiana.  319 

STATE  GOVERNORS. 

From  April  30,  1812,  to  January  1,  1893. 

The  State  of  Louisiana  was  admitted  to  the  Union  on  April 
8,  1812,  and  the  Act  of  Admission  took  effect  April  30,  1812. 
From  that  date,  under  several  Constitutions,  except  during  the 
War  and  Reconstruction  periods,  the  Governors  were  elected 
and  served  as  follows : 

1.  "William  Charles  Cole  Claiborne  (Dem.)^  April  30,  1812, 
to  Dec.  17,  1816. 

2.  Jacques  Villere  (Creole  party),  Dec.  17,  1816,  to  Dec. 
18,  1820. 

3.  Thomas  Boling  Robertson,  resigned  to  accept  United 
States  Senatorship,  Dec.  18,  1820,  to  Nov.  15,  1824. 

4.  H.  S.  Thibodeaux,  President  of  the  Senate  and  Acting 
Governor,  Nov.  15,  1824,  to  Dec.  13,  1824. 

5.  Henry  Johnson  (Whig),  Dec.  13,  1824,  to  Dec.  15,  1828. 

6.  Peter  Derbigny,  killed  accidentally  (Whig),  Dec.  35, 
1828,  to  Oct.  7,  1829. 

7.  Adolphe  Beauvais  (Whig),  President  of  the  Senate  and 
Acting  Governor,  Oct.  7,  1829,  to  Jan.  14,  1830. 

8.  Jacques  Dupre  (Whig),  President  of  the  Senate  and 
Acting  Governor,  Jan.  14,  1830,  to  Jan.  31,  1831. 

9.  Andre  Bienvenu  Roman  (Whig),  Jan.  31,  1831,  to  Feb. 
2,  1835. 

10.  Edward  Douglas  White  (Whig),  Feb.  2,  1835,  to  Feb. 
4,  1839. 

11.  Andre  Bienvenu  Roman  (Whig),  Feb.  4,  1839,  to  Jan. 
30, 1843. 

12.  Alex.  Mouton  (Dem.),  Jan.  30,  1843,  to  Feb.  12,  1846. 

Constitution  of  1845. 

13.  Isaac  Johnson  (Dem.),  Feb.  12,  1846,  to  Jan.  28,  1850. 

14.  Joseph  Walker  (Dem.) ,  Jan.  28,  1850,  to  Jan.  24,  1853. 

Constitution  of  1852. 

15.  Paul  0.  Hebert  (Dem.) ,  Jan.  24,  1853,  to  Jan.  28,  1856. 

16.  Robt.  C.  Wickliffe  (Dem.),  Jan.  28,  1856,  to  Jan.  23, 
1860. 

17.  Thomas  Overton  Moore  (Dem.),  Jan.  23,  1860,  to  Jan. 
25,  1864. 

18.  Henry  Watkins  Allen  (Governor  within  Confederate 
lines),  Jan.  25,  1864,  to  June  2,  1865. 


320  New  Orleans  Guide. 

Military  Governors  Within  Federal  Lines. 
Brig.  Gen.  Geo.  F.  Shepley,  U.  S.  A.,  July  21,  1862,  to 
February  22,  1864. 

18.  Michael  Halm  (within  Federal  lines),  Feb.  22,  1864, 
to  Sept.  5,  1864. 

Constitution  of  1864. 

The  Constitution,  adopted  September  5,  1864,  provided  that 
Michael  Hahn  and  other  State  officers  should  .continue  in  office 
under  the  new  Constitution  until  peace  was  declared,  and  an 
election  could  be  held  all  over  the  State.  Governor  Hahn  was 
also  appointed  by  President  Lincoln,  and  resigned  March  6, 
1865,  on  being  elected  to  the  United  States  Senate,  but  was 
never  admitted  by  that  body. 

Michael  Hahn  (Rep),  resigned,  September  5,  1864,  to  March 
6,  1865. 

19.  J.  Madison  Wells  (Unioni.t),  Lieutenant  Governor 
and  Acting  Governor,  March  6,  1865,  to  December  4,  1865. 

20.  J.  Madison  Wells,  elected  for  term  commencing  Dec.  4, 
1865,  and  removed  by  military  authorities  under  the  Recon- 
struction Act. 

Military  Governors  Under  Reconstruction  Acts. 

Congress  having  passed  the  Reconstruction  Acts,  the  General 
commanding  the  United  States  troops  removed  and  appointed 
at  will. 

21.  Benjamin  Franklin  Flanders,  appointed  by  General 
Sheridan,  June  6,  1867,  to  January  2,  1868. 

22.  Joshua  Baker,  appointed  bv  General  Hancock,  Janu- 
ary 2,  1868,  to  July  13,  1868. 

Constitution  of  1868.  ■  , 

23.  Henry  Clay  Warmoth*  (Rep.)  July  13,  1868,  to 
December  10,  1872. 

24.  P.  B.  S.  Pinchback  (Rep.),  Acting  Governor,  Decem- 
ber 10,  1872,  to  January  13,  1873. 

25.  William  Pitt  Kellogg,**  (Rep.),  Governor  de  facto, 
January  13,  1873,  to  January  8,  1877. 

♦December  10,  1872,  impeached  and  suspended  by  a  partisan  legislature, 
and  office,  under  the  countenance  and  support  of  United  States  courts,  as- 
sumed by  P.  B.  S.  Pinchback,  President  of  the  Senate,  who  was  not  a  member 
of  the  existinsT  Senate,  but  was  recognized  by  President  U.  S.  Grant. 

**John  McEnei-y.  Liberal  Democrat,  Governor  dc  jtire,  retired  under  protest. 
Governor  Warmoth's  State  Returning  Board  declared  John  McEnery  elected 


Outlines  of  Histoky  of  Louisiana.  321 

26.  Francis  Tillou  Nicholls,***  (Conservative  Dem.),  Gov- 
ernor de  facto  and  de  jure,  January  8,  1877,  to  January  14, 
1880. 

Constitution  of  1879. 

27.  Louis  Alfred  Wiltz  (Dem.)  (died  in  office),  January 
14,  1880,  to  October  17,  1881. 

28.  Samuel  Douglas  McEnery,  Lieutenant  Governor,  suc- 
ceeded as  Governor,  October  17,  1881,  to  May  19,  1884. 

29.  Samuel  Douglas  McEnery  (Dem.),  May  19,  1884,  to 
May  22,  1888. 

30.  Francis  Tillou  NichoUs  (Dem.),  May  22,  1888,  to  May 
16,  1892. 

31.  Murphy  J.  Foster  (Anti-Lottery  Dem.),  May  16,  1892, 
to  May  18,  1896. 

32.  Murphy  J.  Foster*  (Dem.),  May  18,  1896,  to  May  21, 
1900.    Constitution  of  1898. 

33.  W.  W.  Heard  (Dem.),  May  21,  1900,  for  four  years. 

*  Foster  was  continued  in  office,  as  the  Constitution  of 
1898  did  not  change  the  State  officers. 

Governor  and  D.  B.  Penn  Lieutenant  Governor,  but  a  State  Board,  counte- 
nanced by  the  United  States  courts,  declared  W.  P.  Kellogg  elected  Governor, 
and  he  was  recognized  by  President  Grant  as  such.  September  14,  1874,  a 
revolution  took  place.  Kellogg  was  superseded  by  Lieutenant  Governor  D.  B. 
Penn  as  Acting  Governor  for  two  days  and  Governor  INIcEnery  for  several 
days,  until  ousted  by  the  United  States  troops,  who  reinstated  W.  P.  Kellogg. 
***Stephen  B.  Packard,  Republican,  retired  under  protest.  S.  B.  Packard 
was  declared  elected  by  a  de  facto  and  de  jure  Republican  Returning  Board, 
inaugurated,  but  not  recognized  by  President  R.  B.  Hayes. 


322  New  Orleans  Guide. 

HELPS  TO  STUDY  OF  THE  HISTORY  OF  LOUISIANA 
AND  NEW  ORLEANS. 

Fiction. 

Description  of  New  Orleans  and  Louisiana. 

Cable  &  Waring— History  and  Present  Condition  of  New 
Orleans.    1880. 

*Castellanos,  H.  C— New  Orleans  As  It  Was.     1895. 

*Coleman^s— Historical  Sketch  Book.     1884. 

Hand  book  of  Louisiana,  by  Louisiana  Board  of  Agricul- 
ture. 

Hansell^s  Illustrated  Guide  to  New  Orleans.     1903. 

History. 

Gayarre,  Chas. — History  of  Louisiana,  4  volumes.     1903. 
GooDSPEED^s— Biographical  and  Historical  Memoirs,  2  vol- 
umes.   1896. 

Thompson,  M.— Story  of  Louisiana. 
Transactions  of  the  Louisiana  Historical  Society. 
*French,  B.  F.— Historical  Collections. 

Language,  Literature,  etc. 

All  of  these  books  may  be  consulted  at  the  Howard  Memo- 
rial Library,  on  Lee  Circle,  and  at  the  New  Orleans  Public 
Library,  Lafayette  Square. 

*Out  of  print. 

BOOKS  BY  LOUISIANA  AUTHORS 

FOR  SALE  BY 

F.  F.  Hansell  &  Bro.,  Ltd., 

714  and  716  Canal  Street,  New  Orleans. 

Cable,  Geo.  W.— 

Creoles  of  Louisiana. 

Strange  True   Stories  of  Louisiana. 

Old  Creole  Days. 

Dr.  Sevier. 

Bonaventure. 

The  Grandissimes. 

The  Cavalier, 


Outlines  of  Histoky  of  Louisiana.  323 

Davis,  M.  E.  M.— 

The  Elephant's  Track. 

Jaconetta, 

The  Queen's  Garden. 

Under  the  Man-fig:. 

Xmas  Masque  of  St.  Roch. 

The  Wire  Cutters. 

In  War  Times,  and  La  Rose  Blanche. 

FORTIER,  A.— 

Louisiana  Studies. 
Hearn,  Lafcadio— 

Chita:  Story  of  Last  Island. 
Jamison,  Mrs.  C.  V.— 

Lady  Jane. 

Tornette's  Phillip. 

Seraph:    The  Violinist. 
King,  Grace— 

New  Orleans,  the  Place  and  People. 

Tales  of  a  Time  and  Place. 
King  &  Ficklin's 

History  of  Louisiana. 
Merrick,  Mrs.  E.  T.— 

Old  Times  in  Dixie. 
NiCHOLLs,  Josephine  Hamilton— 

Bayou  Triste. 
Stuart,  Ruth  McEnery— 

Carlotta  's  Intended. 

The  Golden  Wedding. 

Sonny. 

Moriah's  Morning. 

Napoleon  Jackson. 
Thompson's 

Story  of  Louisiana. 
TowNSEND,  Mary  Ashley— 

Down  the  Bayou,  and  Other  Poems. 

Distaff  and  Spindle. 
Warner,  Beverley  E.— 

English  History  in  Shakespeare's  Plays. 

Young  Man  in  Modern  Life. 

Facts  and  Faith, 


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LADIES'  DINING  ROOM OPEN  DAY  and  NIGHT 

718  CANAL  ST. 


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Soule  College,  during  its  47  years  of  service  in 
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The  Soule  College  Building, 

Just  completed,  is  the  finest  Business  School  edifice  in 
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It  Pays  to  Tstke  CoLre  of  Your  Clothes! 


Mv  Valet 


PRESSING    CLUB. 

No.  142  Carondelet  Street. 

Up  StdLirs.  Telephone  No,  102, 

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Special ,  attention  given  to  Hotel  and  Theatrical  work. 
Our  dry  cleaning  process  is  especially  attractive,  as  it 
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New,  Na  321  Old,  No,  59 

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J.C.DENIS, 
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Information  as  to  sailing  dates,  rates,  cabin  plans,  etc., 
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619  Common  St.,  state  NatM  Bank  BIdg. 
NEW  ORLEANS,  La. 


STEIN  WAY,  KNABE, 
SOHMER,    MEHLIN, 
MASON  AND  HAMLIN, 
KRELL-FRENCH, 
FISCHER,   GRUNEWALD, 
SHONINGER-SCHAEFFER, 
GILBERT,     ^     J-     ^     ji. 


PIANOS 

SOLD  ON  EASY  MONTHLY  PAYNENTS  AND 
NO   INTEREST  CHARGED   ON   TIME  SALES 

GRINEWALD'S 


THE  ONLY 

?y  COMPLETE   ^ 

MUSIC   HOUSE 

IN  THE 

SOUTH 

HEADQUARTERS 

EVERYTHING 

MUSICAL 


COME  HEAR  THE  APOLLO  AND  SIMPLEX 

The  Most  Perfect  PiaLno  Playing  Attachment. 
Can  be  Attatched  to  Any  Piano,  and  Pla^yed  by 
Anybody        v»        ^        ^«        •r*        ^*        %•         'y* 

IT  WILL  BE  WORTH  YOUR  WHILE  TO  VISIT  THE 


L.  GRUNEWALD  CO.,  Ltd. 


735  CANAL  ST,, 
IVew      Orleans,     La, 


r 


OLD   ABSINTHE  HOUSE 


Built  i75Z.    Established  1826.       Phone»Cumb.  3054-II. 


Importer  of  Spanish  Wines 
and  Liquors. 


Corner  Bourbon  and  Bienville  Sts. 


NEW  ORLEANS,  LA. 


^^Gin  Fizz''        ^        "Gin  Phizz'^ 

t<3F      *<9f      <5^       <«F      t«3F 

IMPERIAL 
CABINET 


R*  C,  Ramos,  Prop. 

^p     f^^     ^3^      <<2p     t2p 

302-304  Garondelet  St.  Opposite  Cotton  Exchange 

New  Orleans* 


10  »*^«»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»—»»»»»^<»«»i»»^»aiM»» 

'     L.  C  WILT 


CRESCENT 
I  HALL  CAFE 


...  FINEST  IN  THE  SOUTH  ... 


CANAL  and  ST.  CHARLES  STS- 


Wines  :  and  :  Liquors  :  at  :  Retail 

Try  Wilt's  Cherry  Whiskey 


I 


JOS.  VOEQTLE,  Prop.  GUROPEAN  PLAN. 


COSMOPOLITAN 
♦♦♦    HOTEL   ♦♦♦ 

New  Orleans* 


i24-i26='i28  Bourbon  St.  121=123=125  Royal  St.    j 

I 
I 


;— 


J 


t(«F     t2F       t^F 


712-714  GRAVIER  STREET 
OPPOSITE  ST.  CHARLES  HOTEL 


^?F     t«F      ft«r 


H6g     STAG 

Tom  Anderson, 
Prop, 


t«r      ««F      tSp 

Cumberland  Phone    ::    2062-11. 
NEW  ORLEANS,  LA. 


.->>-««t 


Kolb's  Ladies^  Cafe,  Restaurant  and 
Hotel.      ^        ^      European  Plan. 


CONRAD    KOLB,  Prop. 
123-12S~127   St.  Charles  St 


Nothing  but  the   BEST  of   Refresh 
ments  are  served. 


JAN    2   1903 


The  Oldest  and  Best  Appointed  Res- 
taurant  in   the    Quaint 
French  Quarter 


Restaurant  Antoinc 

Jules  Alciatore,    :: ::    Proprietor. 


Nos.    713,    715.    717.      St.    Louis    Street 
FOUR  SQUARES    FROH  CANAL  STREET 
'  Between     -     Royal     -     and    -    Bourbon 


NEW  ORLEANS,    J^  ^    LA- 


Cuisine  Especially  Unique.     Unex- 
celled Novelty  Dishes. 


u 


PR.ICE  FIFTY  CENTS. 


:ij> 


ifiJttxi'icah 


9 


1903 

I5he  NEW  ST.  CHARLES 

NEW  ORLEANS. 

The  only  Fire-Proof  Hotel  in  the  City. 


When  the  present  twelve-story  and  basement  addition — 
now  in  course  of  constrnction — is  complete,  the  St.  Charles 
will  be  one  of  the  very  largest  and  one  of  the  finest  houses 
in  the  country,  with  accommodations  for  more  than  a  thou- 
sand guests,  and  with  upwards  of  four  hundred  rooms  hav- 
ing private  bath  connections. 

It  is  fireproof,  steam-heated  and  lighted  throughout  with 
electricity. 

The  drinking  water  is  filtered,  distilled  and  aerated,  and 
the  ice  made  from  it  on  the  premises. 

The  Palm'  Garden  is  the  largest,  and  one  of  the  finest  in 
the  country,  and  is  specially  suited  for  Dances,  Weddings, 
Eeceptions,  Banquets,  Dinner  and  Supper  Parties. 

The  Colonnade  and  Palm  Garden  afford  a  delightful  rest- 
ing place  and  promenade,  in  sunshine  and  shade. 

The  Turkish  and  Russian  Baths  are  of  marble,  with  every 
modern  convenience  for  comfort  and  luxury,  and  with  ex- 
perienced massage  operators,  chiropodists  and  manicure  in 
attendance. 

The  Hotel  is  modem,  first-class  and  kept  up  to  the  highest 
standard  in  all  departments. 

Eates  on  application. 

A.  R.  BLAKELY  ^  CO.,  Limited, 


When  in  New  Orleans 

Be  sure  and  call  on 

PHILIP  WER.LEIN,  Ltd. 

614-616  CANAL  STBEET, 

If  you  need  ANYTHING  MUSICAL. 

See  and  hear  the  Pianola,  it  is  so  simple  a  child 
can  play  it.  Can  be  attached  to  any  piano.  En- 
dorsed and  used  by  all  the  g-reat  artists. 
Paderewski  says  "  The  Pianola  is  Per{ection$" 

If  you  need  a  PIANO  call  at  WERLEIN'S, 

they  have  them  at  all  prices,  from  a  $1000 
Chickering  Grand  to  a  good  used  piano  as  low 
as  $100. 

The  Werlein  Piano  Club  furnishes  a  $400  Werlein 
Piano  for  $262,  Pay  $10  when  you  join,  then 
$6.00  a  month. 

The  Mathushek  Piano  Club  gives  its  members 
a  $460  Mathushek  for  $343,  Pay  $25  cash,  then 
$10  a  month. 

Ten  other  well  known  makes  in  all  styles  and 
woods. 

ALL  KINDS  OF  MUSICAL  INSTRUMENTS,  SHEET 
MUSIC,  Etc.,  at 

WERLEIN'S,  614-616  CANAL  ST. 


F.  F.  HANSELL  ®  BRO.,  i" 


-,S353,^gi..?-i;t^  =S£g  5=.  J^  ^^--^  3^3S! 


Wholesale  and  Retail  Dealers  in 


Law,  School, 
ta  Miscellaneous 


Books 


KODAKS  AND  SUPPLIES 
SPORTING    GOODS 

aOLP,  LAWN  TENNIS,  BASE 
BALL,  FOOT  BALL. 

Souvenirs  and  Views  of 
New  Orleans. 

STATIONERY  and  OFFICE 
SUPPLIES. 

AGENTS  FOR 

Globe-Wernicke  Book  Cases, 

Filing  CaLbinets, 

Office  Desks  and  CKaLirs. 

Publishers  of  the  Louisiana 

SUPREME  COURT  REPORTS 

and  all  the  latest 

Codes,  Digests,  Etc. 

Importers  of 

Dolls,  Toys 

FANCY  GOODS. 


714, 716  Caaacl  St.,  NEW  ORLEANS. 


LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS 


0  014  645  060  A 


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