CO
PURCHASED FOR THE
UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY
FROM THE
CANADA COUNCIL SPECIAL GRANT
FOR
to
ECONOMIC HISTORY
^ v^ I
THE NEW
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OF
SCOTLAND.
VOL. VI.
THE NEW
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OF
SCOTLAND.
THE MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE
SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY
FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND
DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY,
VOL, VI,
LANARK,
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS,
EDINBURGH AND LONDON.
MDCCCXLV.
LANARK.
CONTENTS.
AVONDALE, PAGE 301
BERTRAM SHOTTS, . . . . 624
BIGGAR, . . . . . 354
BLANTYRE, .... 314
BOTHWELL, . . .. 765
CADDER, . .' . .391
CAMBUSLANG, . . . 416
CAMBUSNETHAN, . / - . 608
CARLUKE, . . . . 563
CARMICHAEL, '. 517
CARMUNNOCK, . . . 597
CARNWATH, . . . .76
CARSTAIRS, . . . 547
COVINGTON AND THANKERTON, . 872
CRAWFORDJOHN, . . . 497
CRAWFURD, . -..* . . 327
CULTER, „ . . 340
DALSERF, . . . . 719
DALZELL, . . . . 442
DOLPHINTON, * .- . . . 49
DOUGLAS, . . . 477
DUNSYRE, . . .64
EAST KILBRIDE, .' . . 877
GLASFORD, . . . 294
GLASGOW, ... . 101
GO VAN, . . . 668
HAMILTON, . 249
KILBRIDE, EAST, . . . 877
LANARK, . . 1
I.ESMAHAGOW, . . . 30
LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUHAN, . 41
MONKLAND, NEW, . . . 242
MONKLAND, OLD, . . . 635
PETTINAIN, , . . 535
RUTHERGLEN, . ., 373
SHOTTS, . . «/ . 624
STONEHOUSE, . * . . 468
SYMINGTON, . . . 867
WALSTON, . . . 846
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE, . . 805
WISTON AND ROBERTON, . . 93
PARISH OF LANARK.
PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. WILLIAM MENZIES, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name and Boundaries. — SOME trace the origin of the name
of this parish to the Latin terms Lana and area, quasi the wool-
chest; others to Lan-cerig, the bank of the river; or to the Gaelic
words Lan, signifying a house, repository, or church, and deare, a
bilberry. A derivation equally probable is that given by Chalmers
in his Caledonia ; namely, from Llannerch, which in several places
in Wales is applied to a slip of level ground, or a vale.*
The parish lies pretty nearly in the centre of the county to
which it gives its name. It is of an irregular oblong form ; in the
south about 3, in the north about 5 miles broad. It is from 6 to
7 miles in length; and stretches along the eastern bank of the river
Clyde, which separates it on the south from Pettinain and Car-
michael, and on the west from Lesmahagoe. The adjacent parish
on the north is Carluke, from which it is partly divided by Mashoch
burn. Carstairs bounds it on the east. The town of Lanark is
situated in 55° 34' of north latitude, and 3° 5' of west longitude
from Greenwich. It may be considered as the central town of the
Lowlands, being 31 miles distant from Edinburgh, 35 from Stir-
ling, 25 from Glasgow, and 47 from Ayr.
Topographical Appearances. — The ground nowhere rises into any
eminence deserving the name of a hill. It may be described in
general as an elevated plateau, declining on the south and west
towards the River Clyde, sometimes in gentle slopes, sometimes
in steep declivities. From east to west, it is bisected by the
deep and irregular valley of the Mouss. The flat uplands on
* Several places in North Britain have the same name; thus Lcndrich in Kil-
madock ; Lendrich in Dumblane ; Lendrich in Callander ; Lendrich Hill in Fos-
saway ; and Drumlanrig, the former seat of the Duke of Queensberry ; all these ac-
cord with the colloquial name of Lanerk, and are probably from the same British
source.
LANARK. A
2 LANARKSHIRE.
either side of this valley, where they rise to the highest elevation
at Lee moor on the north, and Lanark moor on the south, are pretty-
nearly of the same height,— being about 670 feet above the level
of the sea. The same valley presents two very remarkable chasms.
The river Mouss shortly after it enters the parish, near Cleghorn,
plunges into a deep ravine, which it seems to have formed through
the solid rock as a channel for its waters. Lower down, and
at little more, than a mile from its junction with the Clyde, the
river, abruptly leaving its direct course, although the comparative
lowness of the ground seems favourable for its continuing in it,
again, by a sudden bend, seeks its way in a deep chasm through the
hill of Cartlane. This tremendous ravine is about half a mile in
length. It is composed of two faces of irregular, precipitous and
lofty rocks, and describes in its course a zig-zag line. Where-
ever the cliffs come prominently forward upon the one side, there
is a corresponding recession on the other. The north bank is
about 400 feet high, the south is at least 100 feet lower. Va-
rious conjectures have been proposed as to the manner in which
this remarkable chasm was formed, but these it is unnecessary to
discuss or to notice in this place.
Meteorology — Climate.— Owing to the elevated situation of the
parish, there is at times very intense frost. A gardener in the
neighbourhood during several severe winters, comparing the cold
here with simultaneous observations made at Edinburgh and Glas-
gow, generally found it to be 10° more intense than at either of
these places. This applies, however, only to the uplands ; for in
the lower situations, the frosts are less severe, and the snow dis-
appears much sooner than in most of the surrounding districts ;
and it is no uncommon thing to see the plough going on the banks
of the Clyde, while the ground cannot be broken in the adjacent
parishes. The seasons formerly varied with the soil along the banks
of the river. Where the subsoil is a hard rock, and the soil itself
light and gravelly, they were always remarkably early. But along
the north and east sides of the parish they used once to be prover-
bially late ; and there are persons still alive who have been known
to engage themselves to do the harvest work consecutively in both
situations in the same year. Since fencing, draining, and a better
mode of cultivation, however, have been introduced, this variation
has almost entirely disappeared.
Its central situation saves the parish alike from the fogs of
the eastern, as from the superabundant rains of the western coast.
LANARK. 3
The atmosphere is much less humid than at Glasgow, and even
Hamilton. It has often been observed that not more than one
out of five of the spring and autumnal showers which rise duly
to windward pass over this parish, being either attracted by the
range of mountains to the south, or by the high wet ground on
the north-west ; and that the thunder storms which succeed the
summer droughts commonly drench all the neighbouring districts
before they reach this place. The prevailing winds are west and
south. The latter is generally attended by rain. Any permanent
drought usually begins with an east wind.
Diseases. — Lanark is celebrated, and deserves its reputation, as
a remarkably healthy place, — an advantage for which it probably
is indebted to its open, dry, and elevated situation, and the absence
of all noxious effluvia. There is no endemical disease. Cases of
wen sometimes occur, and at particular seasons, especially in spring
and autumn, the variation of the temperature and the prevalence
of rain occasion all kinds of catarrhal complaints, such as colds,
sore-throat, &c.and likewise diseases of the viscera, chest, and abdo-
men often accompanied by fluxes and spasms. Typhus fever also
prevails more or less at these seasons. Yet, on the whole, the
quantity of disease is unusually small. In the village of New La-
nark, where the inhabitants are exclusively employed in the ma-
nufacture o£ cotton yarn, and exposed many hours at a time to the
inhalation of an atmosphere loaded with cotton flocculi and dust,
numerous cases of pulmonary disease might be expected. Yet, on
consulting the medical records of that extensive establishment, such
cases are found to be much rarer, in proportion to the number of the
inhabitants, than in the neighbouring town. This may arise part-
ly from the equable temperature which is maintained in the rooms
of the manufactory, and partly from the low and sheltered situa-
tion of the place, exposing the inhabitants less to the influence of
those exciting causes which would bring the latent disease into
action.
Hydrography. — • There is no extensive sheet of water in the pa-
rish. Lang-loch, to the south-east, is the largest. There are places,
however, which bear evident marks of having formerly been under
water, particularly the low valley adjoining the house of Lee, amount-
ing to more than 100 acres.
The River Mouss, which we have mentioned as traversing the
parish from east to west, has its source in the northern parts of
Carnwath moor. It draws its contributions principally from the
4 LANARKSHIRE.
adjacent mosses, the dark colour of whose waters it retains, and
to that circumstance has probably been indebted for its name. It
is in general an insignificant stream, but is occasionally swelled by
copious rains into a powerful torrent. In summer, it is subject to
such decrease, as scarcely to be sufficient for supplying the nume-
rous mills erected upon its banks. Its course is irregular, westerly
in its direction, with a slight inclination to the south. After emerg-
ing from the rocks at Cleghorn, it finds a more expansive channel
through finely wooded banks, steep upon the south, and gently slop-
ing upon the northern side. On issuing from the Cartlane Craigs,
it pursues but a brief course before it falls into the Clyde, opposite
the village of Kirkfield-bank.
Cartlane Craigs. — There are few specimens of rocky scenery in
the country to be compared with the Cleghorn, but more especially
the Cartlane Craigs. Even when seen from the walks which skirt
the summit of the precipice on either side, they present the most
romantic views of bold and lofty rocks, combined in endless va-
riety with wood and water. But the traveller who visits this spot
in summer, (at which season alone the passage by the bed of the
river is practicable,) and will submit to the toil of an occasional
scramble over rocks, will enjoy the highest gratification. At every
turn of the river, a new and varying scene of rocky grandeur,
heightened by the accompaniments of the stream, and a rich and
varied foliage, bursts upon the view. The popular tradition, that
a cave in this ravine once afforded a refuge to the patriot Sir Wil-
liam Wallace, gives additional interest to the scene. It also a few
years ago received a new ornament by the erection of a bridge,
which spans the chasm at its lower extremity, with three arches,
and whose Roman simplicity and elegance are in the finest keeping
with the scenery around.
Clyde. — The Clyde is here a large and beautiful river. It ap-
proaches the parish from the east with a scarcely perceptible mo-
tion, after flowing through a long track of holm land, which, being
very little elevated above the bed of the stream, is liable occasion-
ally to be overflowed, and seems to have once formed the bottom
of an extensive lake, before the waters had worn their channel suffi-
ciently deep to drain it. It then takes a long sweep towards the south
and south-west with a more accelerated motion ; the high grounds
advance on each side, and the channel becomes uneven and rocky.
But upon passing Hyndford Bridge, it assumes its former placid
aspect, and, receiving a considerable augmentation from one of its
LANARK. 5
principal tributaries, the Douglas Water, soon reaches the Boning-
ton Fall, where, in a divided stream, it is abruptly precipitated over
a ledge of rocks of about thirty feet of perpendicular height. Its
channel from this point, for about half a mile, is formed of a range of
perpendicular and equidistant rocks on either side, which are from
70 to 100 feet high, and which Mr Pennant has well characterized
as stupendous natural masonry. At Corehouse it encounters an-
other fall 84 feet in height, and immediately assumes a more tran-
quil character until it reaches a small cascade called Dundaf Lin,
about a quarter of a mile farther down. The banks now slope more
gently, sometimes covered with natural wood, and sometimes cul-
tivated to the water's edge. This character it preserves for a dis-
tance of about three or four miles, until it reaches Stonebyres,
where it passes through another rocky ridge, and projects itself in
three leaps over a precipice of 80 feet in height. In its farther
course, which extends about a mile and a-half in this parish, the
stream in general flows quietly between gently sloping and beauti-
fully wooded banks.
The breadth and depth of the river vary at different places. At
the broadest a stone may be thrown across ; and there is a spot
between the Bonington and Corra Falls where the whole volume of
its waters is so confined between two rocks, that an adventurous
leaper has been known to clear it at a bound. There are fords
which children can wade across, and pools which have never been
fathomed.
The scenery along the banks of the Clyde is acknowledged to
be scarcely equalled in this country, and rarely surpassed abroad.
It has for a long period attracted multitudes of admiring visitors
during the fine season, and still continues to be as much visited as
ever. The country above the falls is comparatively tame and un-
interesting. But from that point nothing can surpass the variety
and beauty of the prospects, which successively present themselves
to the eye of the traveller.
Waterfalls. — The waterfalls, however, are the chief objects of
attraction. The uppermost, called the Bonington Fall, is about
two miles and a-half distant from Lanark. The way lies for the most
part through the beautiful grounds of Bonington ; and, with a libe-
rality worthy of imitation, the Ross family, to whom the property
belongs, allow free access on every day but the Sabbath, and at all
hours, to the public, who find tasteful walks kept in the highest
order, and seats at every fine point of view for their accommodation.
6 LANARKSHIRE.
The upper is perhaps the least beautiful of the falls, owing to its
smaller height, and to the bareness of the southern bank above it.
Still, when seen from the point at which it first bursts upon the
view, it is very imposing; and the present proprietor, Lady Mary
Ross, by means of a bridge thrown across the north branch of the
stream, immediately above the precipice, and points of observation
happily selected, has secured some charming coups d'oeil to the ad-
mirers of nature. The Corra Lin, which is about half a mile far-
ther down, is generally allowed to be the finest of the three. Un-
til a few years ago, this splendid cascade could only be seen from
above. But fine although it must ever be from whencesoever con-
templated, all former views of it were greatly inferior to one which
the present proprietor has opened up. A flight of steps has been
formed along the face of the opposite rock. By this, the traveller
descends into a deep and capacious amphitheatre, where he finds
himself exactly in front, and on a level with the bottom of the fall.
The foaming waters, as they are projected in a double leap over
the precipice, the black and weltering pool below, the magnificent
range of dark perpendicular rocks 120 feet in height, which sweeps
around him on the left, the romantic banks on the opposite side,
the river calmly pursuing its onward course, and the rich garniture
of wood with which the whole is dressed, combine to form a spec-
tacle with which the most celebrated cataracts in Switzerland and
Sweden will scarcely stand a comparison. The lower or Stonebyres
Fall, so named from the adjacent estate of Stonebyres, belonging
to the ancient family of Vere, it is unnecessary to describe. It has
great similarity in many of its features to the Corra Lin, and it is
sufficient to say, that, in the opinion of many it is even superior in
beauty.
Geology. — The parish lies upon a mass of old red sandstone,
which probably forms the basis of the country to the south and
east. This mass is composed of strata from a few inches to many
feet in thickness, having a considerable declination towards the east,
but upon the surface they generally follow the declination of the
ground in which they are situated. It is also divided by perpendi-
cular fissures, which become less perceptible as they descend be-
low the influence of the sun and air. In some places it is likewise
traversed by narrow dikes of trap rock, sinking perpendicularly, and
cutting the general stratification nearly at right angles. The trap
rock of these dikes is often disintegrated, or if solid, appearing
composed of a congeries of elliptical balls, and has evidently been
LANARK. „ 7
in a state of fusion at the time of its formation. Many of the
internal crevices are filled with heavy spar, some of which is
found in a state of complete crystallization. On the lands of Jer-
viswood, a thick vein of quartz, intermixed with small veins of rich
iron ore, was discovered many years ago, which for some time raised
sanguine expectations that lead or other valuable minerals would
be found in its neighbourhood. But these expeditions have not
yet been realized. The surface of the rock is very rugged and un-
even, consisting of several conical eminences, which sometimes rise
with a gentle ascent, and sometimes abruptly terminate, forming
precipices of several hundred feet in height.
No beds of coal hare hitherto been disco vered in the parish, except-
ing at the north-west end, where it encroaches for about half a mile
upon a coal district, and where all the minerals common to that
district are found to crop out, but in such shallow strata as to ren-
der their working impracticable* Carboniferous limestone is wrought
in considerable quantities in Craigend-hill, on the north-west cor-
ner of the parish, accompanied by a small seam of coal, but which
does not yield sufficient to burn the limestone. Nodules of clay-
ironstone are likewise found here imbedded in clay. Specimens of
petrified wood have also been met with in the .limestone rock.
Small detached pieces of jasper have been picked up in the bed of
the Mouss, with ochre, and several other mineral productions,
which have probably been carried down by the river from the upper
part of the country. A detached and water-worn piece of limestone
was found near the old bridge upon the Clyde, containing petrified
shells resembling on a general view pholades and cockles. Masses
of freestone are frequent near the Chapel on the lands of Nemphlar,
and near Moussbank, where a quarry was opened some years ago,
but which has since been abandoned. Several attempts have been
made to discover coal upon the estate of Lee, and upon Lanark
moor, hitherto without success.
Few places present more evident traces of a deluge than the pa-
rish of Lanark. Hills of gravel, beds of clay, banks of sand, and
large masses of mud, are heaped together in the wildest confusion.
The uneven nature of the surface would naturally produce different
currents, which, meeting together, would form, at their junction,
beds of gravel ; and, in the eddies betwixt them, banks of sand. In
more still water, mud or clay would be deposited according as the
waters were charged with a greater or less proportion of sand. This
arrangement is very conspicuous along the banks of the Mouss and
8 LANARKSHIRE.
Clyde, from the Hyndford Bridge on the latter, but more espe-
cially at their confluence. Where the waters flowed over a less
rugged surface, a sort of hard till has been deposited, which is
scarcely pervious to water, and consequently renders the soil more
unproductive. Upon examining twenty stones taken promiscuously
from a gravel pit, there were found ten of the common red sandstone,
five of a hard Idnd of sandstone, and the other five of various kinds,
some of which are not found in masses in any part of the neigh-
bourhood. Detached pieces of granite are also found here, which,
notwithstanding their hardness, have all the asperities rounded off,
proving that they must have rolled from a vast distance ; and in-
deed no rocks of the kind are known to exist within many miles of
the parish. These rocks are very much prized for curling-stones.
Marl has also been found at Bonington and Sunnyside, but has not
been dug to any extent.
Soil. — From what has been said,, it is obvious that the soil must
vary with the subsoil. Accordingly, along the west end of the pa-
rish for nearly a mile in breadth, it is generally composed of a stiff
clay. Along the banks of the rivers it is light and gravelly. In
the east it is wet and clayey. Nemphlar and Cartlane moors con-
sist of a hard till, and this soil prevails more or less in all high
and exposed situations. It is the most stubborn of all kinds of
soil, and has longest resisted the efforts of the farmer. But
in every part of the parish, sometimes even in the same field,
all the different varieties of soil are found. In Lanark moor, in
the low grounds adjoining the house of Lee, and elsewhere, some
inconsiderable beds of moss are met with.
Zoology. — The only cattle bred here are horses and cows, all of
the best kinds, for draught and dairy, which are sold young. There
are no sheep kept but by gentlemen for their private use.
The only fish in the Mouss are minnow and trout. In the
Clyde, besides these, there are pike, eels, and very rarely perch.
The Stonebyres Fall arrests the further ascent of salmon. For-
merly two or three individuals in the town of Lanark used to
pick up a livelihood by catching and selling fish, but their business
has been much injured, and the sport ruined for amateur anglers,
by the numbers, who, owing to the dulness of trade, now engage in
it, and by the new and deadly tackle which they employ.
The common insects are wasps, gad-flies, gnats, and the goose-
berry, apple, and cabbage caterpillar. The cabbage caterpillar is
destroyed by sprinkling with powdered lime ; the gooseberry ca-
LANARK. 9
terpillar, by searching the centre of the bush near the ground at
the time when the leaves expand, and picking off such as are
found riddled, and full of holes. The apple and pear caterpillars
are of two kinds, the one a small green worm, with a black head,
that breeds in the blossom-bud and consumes its heart ; the bud
does not expand, but soon turns brown, and then the tree is said
to be fired. The cobweb, or, as it is called in some places, the
cotton caterpillar, is sometimes so very destructive, that the trees
in the month of June appear as bare as in January ; if picked off
once a-day at the opening of the season they may be destroyed ;
as they surround themselves with a round ball of cobweb, they
are easily seen, and a few boys would soon clear an orchard. The
small black-headed caterpillar is less easily overcome ; it does its
mischief before the blossom expands. Mr Sinclair, late gardener
at Bonington, discovered a method, by which for many years he
effectually saved his trees and bushes from these destructive insects.
It is to mix sifted lime in a tub with water, and by means of a
gardener's engine to project this with force upon the plants ; in
this manner, the moss upon the branches in which insects harbour
is destroyed.
Botany. — The recesses of Cartlane Craigs present a rich va-
riety of plants to the botanist'; among which may be named
Berberis vulgaris, Pyrola rotundifolia, Pyrola • minor, Saxifraga
oppositofolia and granulata, Prunus padus, Bird Cherry or Hawk-
berry, Spirea salicifolia, Rubus saxatilis, Cistus Helianthemum,
Aquilegia vulgaris, Cardamine impatiens, Geranium lucidum, Oro-
bus sylvaticus, Vicia sylvatica, Doronicum pardalianches. There
are said to be a considerable variety of mosses of rare species above
the falls.
There are several large plantations in the parish, consisting
chiefly of Scotch, larch, and spruce fir. The grounds of Lee, Bo-
nington, and Cleghorn are ornamented with fine old trees, such as
oak, beech, larch, and lime. The banks of the Clyde and Mouss
are covered with natural wood of various kinds, viz. oak, ash, hazel,
birch, alder, hawkberry, hawthorn, and mountain-ash.
Close to the House of Lee are two trees which deserve par-
ticular mention. The first is an oak of prodigious size. Accord-
ing to a late measurement,' it was found to be 60 feet of perpendi-
cular height, and 30 in circumference, and to contain 1460 cubic
feet of wood. It is called the Pease tree ; is understood to be a
relict of the ancient Caledonian forest, and still continues to ve-
10 LANARKSHIKE.
getate, although its huge trunk is hollowed to such a degree that ten
persons .have been crammed into the excavation. The other is a
magnificent larch, said to have been one of the firs brought into
this country; it is 100 feet in height, and 18 in girth, containing
320 cubic feet of timber.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Historical Notices. — There does not exist any ancient account
of this parish. The town is acknowledged to be of very great an-
tiquity ; but all the information we possess with respect to it in
former ages, consists in a few rare and incidental notices scattered
throughout the general histories of the country. It is supposed
to be the . Colsenia of Ptolemy ; a Roman road having passed
through, or near it, to its castle, on the south-west side. In subse-
quent ages, it must have been a place of considerable importance,
as may be inferred from the fact recorded by Buchanan, that, in
the year 978, Kenneth II. here held an assembly of the states of
the realm. That it was a royal town at a very early period is
certain ; for Malcolm IV., in granting a toft in Lanark, speaks of
it as in burgo meo ; and William, the successor of Malcolm, also
designates it his burgh. It possesses charters ; the original one
erecting it into a royal burgh was granted by Alexander L; there
is also one by Robert L, dated at Linlithgow, the fourth year of
his reign ; another without date, by Alexander III. ; a fourth by
the same monarch in the thirteenth year ^>f his reign ; there
are besides two by James V. ; and a final one, confirmatory of
all the rest, given by Charles L, and bearing date 20th February
1632.
Chalmers is certainly wrong, when he says in his Caledonia,
that " we hear nothing of any royal castle or place of royal resi-
dence in this city." On a small artificially-shaped hill, between the
town and the river, at the foot of the street called Castle Gate, and
still bearing the name of the Castle hill, there stood in former times
beyond all doubt a royal castle. Tradition ascribes it to David I.
It was the place from which the charter of William the Lion, in
favour of the town of Ayr, was dated in 1197. In the treaty ne-
gotiated in 1298, respecting the marriage of the niece of King
Philip of France, with the son and heir of John Baliol, the Castle
or Castelany of Lanark was mortgaged as part of the security for the
lady's jointure. We hear of it as being in. the thirteenth century
in the hands of English soldiers. Besides, there are places in the
LANARK. 11
neighbourhood of the town which, even to this day, bear the names of
King-son's Know, King-son's Moss, King-son's Stane, which seems
to favour the tradition, that it was once a place of royal residence.
We have already mentioned the circumstance related by Bu-
chanan, although passed over in silence by Fordun, of Kenneth II.
having in 978 summoned at Lanark a convention of the estates
of the realm ; the first of which there is any record in history.
In 1244, Lanark was burnt to the ground ; a fate which befell
several other towns at the same period, and to which they were
liable from having been then built of wood. In 1297 it was the
scene of the first military exploit of Sir William Wallace, who
there slew William de Hesliope or Heselrigg, the English she-^
riff, and expelled his soldiers from the town. It seems to have
been a garrisoned place in 1310, for we read of its having then
surrendered to King Robert Bruce, with Dumfries, Ayr, and
the Isle of Bute. On the 12th of January 1682, the Covenanters
here published a declaration, which Wodrow calls the first essay of
the " societies united into a correspondence." This act roused the
indignation of the Privy- Council, who fined the town 6000 merks,
and issued processes against the freeholders for not preventing it,
nor seizing the parties concerned in it. Several persons were exe-
cuted at the place about the same time, and among the rest Wil-
liam Hervie, who was charged with being at Bothwell Bridge, and
publishing Wood's declaration. The grave of this person is still
seen in the churchyard of the parish, and is an object of great reve-
rence.
Lanark formerly enjoyed the privilege of keeping the standard
weights of the kingdom. An act of Parliament in 1617 narrates,
that of old, the keeping and out-giving of the weights to the
burghs and others was committed to this town, and charges it
again with the " care of the weights." The old standards are still
preserved. They are stamped with a spread eagle, with two heads,
the arms of the burgh, although some have supposed this to be a
foreign mark. In 1790, they were measured by Professor Robi-
son of Edinburgh; and, for the second time, about ten years subse-
quently, for the purpose of rectifying those of Edinburgh. It was
then discovered that the pound had lost something less than seven
grains English Troy, weighing 7613 instead of 7620 grains, which, in
terms of the act of Parliament 1618, it ought to have contained.
Dr Robison says, that this standard is better ascertained than any
other in Europe, except that of Brussels, and its copy at Paris.
12 LANARKSHIRE.
At the time of the union, a new set of weights was sent from Lon-
don to the burgh. They are of very handsome workmanship, and
are thus dated, "Primo Maii Anno Dom. 1707— A.R.— An.Regni
vi." But by the act of 1826, these have been superseded by the in-
troduction of the imperial standard, and the ancient prerogative of
, the town disannulled ; every burgh and county having been enjoin-
ed to procure and keep a set of standard weights. .
Eminent Men. — Sir William Wallace was connected with this
parish, having resided in the town after his marriage with the co-
heiress of Lamington. — James Birnie, secretary to John Cassimir,
King of Poland, was the son of Mr William Birnie, who was ap-
pointed minister of Lanark in 1597.— Sir William Lockhart of
Lee, a great statesman and general under the Protector, and after-
wards Lord Justice- Clerk, was born in the parish, and received the
first rudiments of education at the school of Lanark. — The estate
of Jerviswood was the family property of Robert Baillie the martyr.
In the mansion-house, which is now fallen into decay, he found con-
cealment from the pursuit of his enemies, and is said to have owed
nis life upon one occasion, to a spider, which spun its web over the
door of the oven in which he was lurking, thus averting the sus-
picions of the soldiers. — Lithgow, the traveller, was born in this
parish, and lies buried in the churchyard ; but the site of his grave
is unknown. — Dr William Smellie, the celebrated accoucheur;
and the learned and ingenious General Roy, were both educated
at Lanark school, to which the former left as a memorial his va-
luable library, with L. 200 to build a room for its accommodation.
— Robert Macqueen, Lord Justice- Clerk for Scotland, was born
in the parish, and educated at the schools of Lanark. — Sir John
Lockhart Ross, so renowned in the naval chronicles of Great
Britain, as captain of the Tartar, although born in the adjacent
parish of Carstairs, acquired by his marriage with the late Lady
Ross Baillie, the beautiful property of Bonington in Lanark parish,
where he built the present mansion-house, and occasionally resided.
—Among other celebrated men, we must not omit the excellent
and pious Mr David Dale, founder of the village and manufactory
of New- Lanark; nor his son-in-law, Robert Owen, who here exco-
gitated and made an abortive attempt to reduce to practice, his
wild theories for the renovation of society.
Land-owners. — The principal land-owners are Sir Norman
Macdonald Lockhart, Bart, of Lee ; Lady Mary Ross of Boning-
ton ; Mrs Elliot Lockhart of Cleghorn ; George Baillie, Esq. of
LANARK. 13
Jerviswood ; Thomas Young Howison, Esq. of Hyndford ; the
Misses Carmichael of Smyllum Park ; Walker and Company of
New Lanark ; Sir Richard Honyman of Huntly Hill ; Archibald
Nesbit, Esq. of Carfin ; Alexander Gillespie, Esq. of Sunnyside.
Besides these, there are 65 smaller heritors in the out-parish, and
100 in the in-parish, possessing burgh lands.
Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers consist of 14 vo-
lumes ; 7 of births, and 7 of marriages. The date of the earliest
entry is 1 647. The session records reach no farther back than 1 699.
Antiquities. — The Castle- Hill, which we have already mention-
ed as a small mount in the immediate vicinity of the town, towards
the river, is supposed to have been originally a Roman castellum ;
and General Roy mentions a fine silver Faustina as having been
found here. But at present there is scarcely left a single vestige
either of the ancient Roman work, or of the royal castle, which in
later times occupied its site. It has been converted into a bowl-
ing-green.
There are remains of two Roman camps in the neighbour-
hood of Lanark. The most considerable is not far from Cleg-
horn-house, and was thought by General Roy to have been the
work of Agricola. It measures 600 yards in length, and 420 in
breadth, and at the south-west angle has a small post or redoubt.
The other is situated upon the Lanark moor, on the opposite side
of the Mouss, and is within a mile of one in the adjoining parish
of Carstairs, apparently of later construction, and of which the
vestiges are much more distinct. Through this passed the great
Roman road from Carlisle to the wall of Antoninus, leaving the
camp at Cleghorn upon the right.
About half a mile below Lanark, upon an elevated situation on
the banks of the Mouss, stands the picturesque remnant of a lofty
tower, of which little or nothing is known. The eminence is called
Castle Hill, and from it the Lockharts of Cambusnethan take
their title.
On the very brink of Cartlane Craigs, and overhanging a pre-
cipice of above 200 feet of perpendicular height, are to be seen
the vestiges of an old stronghold, called by some the Castle of the
Quaw, probably from the Gaelic cuas or cave. Neither history
nor tradition has preserved any record of what this was, or of the
date of its erection. And it is only remarkable for certain subter-
raneous caves or arched ways of rather a singular description, which
have probably given the place its name. One of them was ex-
14 LANARKSHIRE.
plored by Mr Lockhart, who has given a description of it in the
former Statistical Account. He there argues, from the absence of all
traces of lime, that it must have been of a date anterior to the in-
troduction of the use of mortar by the Romans. Another person
to whom it was shown was of a different opinion, and says, that the
arch appeared to him more like the work of some cow-herd boy
than anything else.
Old Church. — About a quarter of a mile to the south-east of the
town, and seen from all the country around, rise the beautiful ruins
of the old parish church. There still remain traces to show that
it must have been a building of great elegance. Six fine Gothic
arches, supporting a wall which seems to have separated the body
of the church from a side aisle, along its whole length, are at pre-
sent standing. It is altogether unknown by whom, and at what
exact period this fabric was erected ; but Chalmers, in his Cale-
donia, has collected some interesting particulars with respect to it
which had previously fallen into oblivion. It appears to have been
in existence at the beginning of the twelfth century, before the
re-establishment of the bishoprick of Glasgow by Prince David,
and was dedicated to Kentigern, the patron saint of that city, and
founder of the episcopate. In 1150, David I. granted it, with
its tithes and pertinents, to the monastery of Dryborough, — a grant
which subsequent monarchs successively confirmed, and which was
afterwards extended to a chapel at Cleghorn. In 1297, Blind
Harry alludes to it, making his hero pass
" On from the kirk that was without the town."
The canons of Dryborough continued in possession of it, drew the
revenues, and served the cure by establishing a vicarage until the
period of the Reformation. In 1589-90, the presbytery passed a
resolution " that the kirk of Lanerk should be removed from the
auld place to a situation within the town." — " Notwithstanding of
this resolution," says Chalmers, " the kirk still remains in the old
place, and continued to be the parish church until 1777, when a
new one was built in the middle of the town." Long before this
period, however, it had fallen into a ruinous state, and had ceas-
ed to be used for public worship. The inhabitants of the town
attended Divine service in the chapel of St Nicholas, which de-
volved to the burgh at the Reformation, and in which the lofts
and galleries were set apart for the magistrates and corporations.
It seems impossible to ascertain at what precise period the old
church was abandoned as a place of public worship. In former
4
LANARK. 15
times it seems to have had various altars ; one consecrated to the
holy cross, was styled the Ruid Altar, and another to the Virgin,
Our Lady's Altar. To the chaplain who served the latter, James
IV. granted in mortmain a tenement in Lanark, which had fallen to
him by royal right. The charter is thus noted in the general index
of charters in the Register office. " Willielmo Clerkson, capellano
moderno ad altare gloriosissimae Virginis Marise, infra ecclesiam
parochialem de Lanark," dated Lanark, 18th October 1500. In
the reign of Robert III. John Simpson, a burgess of the town,
founded and endowed a chaplainary in this church. The ground
around it continues as of old to be the parish cemetery. For a num-
ber of years it was abandoned to shameful neglect ; and the hands
of mischievous boys co-operated with time in accelerating the de-
struction of the venerable ruin. Its appearance has also suffered very
materially by the erection of an ugly square tower in -the centre,
for the accommodation of grave- watchers. But better feelings
have lately prevailed. The churchyard has been enclosed with a
wall ; and a small fund was raised for the purpose of using means
to prevent the total dilapidation of the ancient pile. Considera-
ble repairs were made, which it is hoped will uphold it a century
or two longer to grace the spot where so many generations of La-
narkers repose. *
Before the Reformation there were various chapels in this pa-
rish, of which, however, there remain at the present day scarcely
any other memorial than the tradition of their existence, and the
names which they have given to the spots at or near which they
were situated, f
* If the dead were conscious of what takes place above them, the ashes of at least
one of the sleepers in this churchyard must have been disturbed by the profanations
which used to take place in it. I allude to Mr William Birnie, of whom it is said
in Nesbit's Heraldry, that when of age, and after three years study abroad, he was,
upon the 28th of December 1597, presented by King James VI. to the parish of
Lanark. An interesting reprint of an old and learned work of this person, entitled
" The Blame of Kirk Burial, tending to persuade to Cemeterial Civilitie," has late-
ly been made by William Turnbull, Esq. advocate. The author, in quaint but
powerful language, inveighs against the practice of burying in the area of churches,
but delivers many admirable sentiments on the honour due to the resting-places of
the dead. It would appear that in his day the ecclesiastical profession required more
various and extensive accomplishments than are now deemed necessary, or even be-
coming in clergymen. For it is said of Mr Birnie, " that he not only learnedly
preached the gospel in this parish, but, because of the several quarrels and feuds
amongst the gentlemen, was obliged many times, as he well could, to make use of
his sword."
f Some notices respecting the chapels of St Nicholas, St Leonards, and the cha-
pels at Cleghorn and East Nemphlar, will be found in the original MS.
1C LANARKSHIRE.
In the Tnansion-house at Bonington are preserved a few inte-
resting relics of Sir William Wallace, of whose family the Rosses
claim to be the representatives in the female line. These were
brought from the old castle of Lamington. A portrait there
shows the chieftain in look and features much as he is repre-
sented in the common pictures. There is also a broad oaken
seat, which has borne from time immemorial the name of Wallace's
Chair. The four large posts which compose its frame-work, and
of which the two at the back are considerably higher than those
in front, are the only parts which have any claim to antiquity, and
certainly are sufficiently rude for the fourteenth century. All the
rest together, with the bear skin with which it has been covered,
are modern additions. A third object is a small oaken cup, called
Wallace's quaigh, evidently of very great antiquity. *
Lee-penny. — The most celebrated antiquity, however, which we
have to mention is the Lee-penny. This is a small triangular stone,
of what kind, a lapidary, to whom it was shown, confessed himself
unable to determine. In size, it is about half an inch on each side,
and is set in a piece of silver coin, which, from the traces of a cross
still discernible, is supposed to be a shilling of Edward the First.
The traditional history of this gem is as follows : — King Robert
Bruce had ordered, that after his death his heart should be carried
to the Holy Land, and one of those who joined the expedition, ap-
pointed to carry the royal wish into effect, was Sir Simon Lockard
of Lee. To defray his expenses, he borrowed a sum of money
from Sir William de Lindsay, prior of Ayre, to whom he granted
a bond of annuity for L. 10 upon his estate of Lee. This bond,
bearing date 1323, is still preserved amongst the family papers.
As a memorial of his services upon this occasion, the family name
of Locard was changed into Lock-heart or Lockhart, and he ob-
Among.the minor antiquities may be mentioned the church bell. It was removed
from the old to the present parish church, and has been several times refounded. It
bears the date of these. The first is so early as 1110 ; the second 1659 ; and the last
1740.
* Its history is thus recorded in verse upon the silver hoop which encircles the
edge : —
At Torwood I was cut from that known tree,
Where Wallace from warres toyls took sanctarie.
For Mars's sonnes I'm only now made fitt,
When with the sonnes of Bacchus they shall sitt.
Sir Walter Scott, in the Tales of a Grandfather, mentions his having forty years ago
examined the roots of the oak here alluded to, which at that time were all that remain-
ed of it.
LANARK. 17
tained for arms a heart within a lock, with the motto, Corda serata
pando. Sir Simon is said in this journey to have taken prisoner a
Saracen chief, for whose liberty his lady offered a large sum of
money. In counting it out, she happened to drop the gem from
her purse, and showed such eagerness in recovering it as drew the
knight's attention, and raised his curiosity to learn what it was.
Being told of its remarkable virtues, he refused to liberate the
husband, unless it were added to the ransom. With this demand
the lady unwillingly complied, and thus the talisman came into the
possession of the family with whom it has ever since remained.
Formerly it bore a very high and extensive celebrity for extraor-
dinary medicinal properties. Water in which it had been but dipt
was supposed to be an effectual remedy for all diseases of cattle,
and has been sent for as far as the northern counties of England.
It was also considered to be a specific against hydrophobia. The
most remarkable instance of its efficacy in that distemper was the
cure of a Lady Baird of Saughton-hall, near Edinburgh, who, by
using draughts and baths of it, recovered from the bite of a mad
dog, after, it is said, hydrophobia had actually begun. When the
plague was last at Newcastle the inhabitants borrowed the Lee-
penny, giving a large sum in trust for the loan, and so convinced
were they of its good effects, that they were willing to forfeit the
deposit and retain possession.*
* Various, of course, arc the opinions held as to whether these virtues are real or
imaginary, natural or miraculous. The following authority upon the subject is per-
haps curious enough to deserve a place: —
" Copy of an Act of the Synode and Assembly apud Glasgow the 25th of October,
Synode Session 2d.
" Quhilk daye amongest the referies of the Brethern of the ministrie of Lanark, it
was propondit to the Synode, that Gawen Hammiltoune of Raploch had preferit ane
complaint before them against Sir Thos Lockhart of Lee, anent the superstitious
using of ane stone set in silver for the curing of deseased cattel, qulk the said Gawen
affirmed could not be lawfullie used, — and that they had defer! t to give any desisioune
therin till the advise of the Assemblie might be heard concerning the same. The As-
semblie having inquerit of the maner of using therof, and particularlie understood
be examinatioune of the «aid Laird of Lie and otherwise, that the custom is onlie to
cast the stone in sume water, and give the deseasit cattel ther-af to drink, and yt the
same is done wt-out using onie wordes, such as charmers use in their unlawful prac-
tissess, — and considering that in nature they are monie thinges sein to work strange
effect, qrof no humane witt can give a reason, it having pleasit God to give unto
stones and herbes a special virtues for the healling of mony infirmities in man and
beast, — and advises the Brethern to surcease thair process, as qr-in they perseive no
ground of offence, — and admonishes the said Laird of Lie in the using of the said
stone, to tak heid it be usit heir after wt. the least scandall that possihlie maybe.
LANARK. B
18 LANARKSHIRE.
Modern Buildings. — There are several very handsome seats in
the parish. The lordly-looking mansion of Lee, the seat of Sir
Norman Macdonald Lockhart, was renovated a few years ago,
after a design of Mr Gillespie Graham. The style is castellated.
Its principal ornament is the lofty Gothic hall in the centre, which
replaces the open court of the old house, rises high above the rest
of the building, and is lighted by twelve windows, three on each
side near the roof.
Bonington, the jointure house of Lady Mary Ross, is an elegant
modern mansion, delightfully situated within a quarter of a mile from
the Corra Lin. It was lately much improved by the addition of a
handsome porch in front, also from a design of Mr Gillespie
Graham.
Smyllum, a spacious mansion of imposing appearance, was built
about twenty years ago. It is in the castle style, and stands in a
high and very conspicuous situation half a mile above the town.
Cleghorn is an old and comfortable dwelling-house, finely situ-
ated upon the north bank of the Mouss, and surrounded with fine
wood.
Sunnyside Lodge is an elegant English villa, beautifully placed
upon the steep bank of the Clyde, about a mile and a-half below
Lanark. A particular point in the avenue commands one of the
richest and most extensive prospects in the country.
Many of the houses in Lanark have been rebuilt within the last
ten years, in rather a handsome style, which has greatly improved
its appearance, although it has deprived it of its ancient title to
be considered a finished town. The best house in it was built a
few years ago by the Commercial Bank for the accommodation of a
thriving branch of their business. The stones principally used are
rag and freestone, the former from quarries near the town ; the
latter is brought from the adjoining parishes of Lesmahagoe and
Carluke. The Auchinheath and Maingill quarries yield a stone
which is found not to bear exposure to the weather. A new quarry
has lately been opened at Pittfield, on the road to Carluke, the
rock of which promises fair, but has not yet been sufficiently tried.
Lime is brought a distance of four miles from Craigend-hill.
Extract out of the Bookes of the Assemblie holden at Glasgow, and subscribed by
thair clerk at thair command.
" M. ROBERT YOUNG,
" Clerk to the Assemblie at Glasgow."
LANARK. 19
III. — POPULATION.
In 1755 the population amounted to 2294 by Dr Webster's return.
In 1781 - " - - 2360 Chalmers's Caledonia.
In 1792 -' -- : 4751 Old Statistical Account.
In 1794 - - - 4905}
In 1796 4761 £ Taken by Mr Menzies.
In 1800 ,.-.v 51033
In 1811 - - ,' » - 6067
In 1821 7085
In 1831 7672
The great increase observable between 1781 and 1792 took
place chiefly in consequence of the erection and prosperity of the
cotton manufactory at New Lanark ; but it is in some measure also
to be ascribed to the improvement and extension of trade, manu-
factures, and agriculture in general.
The number of the population at present residing in the town,
4266; in New Lanark, 1901 ; in the country, 1505 ; total, 7672.
The nobility and persons of independent fortune in the parish
amount to 10.
There are 16 persons who possess land of the yearly value of
L. 50 and upwards, — besides the burgh of Lanark, and the Com-
pany at New Lanark.
1 . Number of families in the parish, 1 540
of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - 93
chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 1197
2. The average number of births yearly, for the last 7 years, (exclusive of dis-
senters,) . 129f
of marriages, 63 «
of deaths in 1830, 153
Belonging to the parish are 4 insane persons kept in asylums ;
4 fatuous ; 6 blind, 3 of whom are resident, and 3 are kept in asy-
lums ; 2 deaf and dumb.
Families which have for several generations been domiciled in
the town are remarked to be in general small in stature compared
with the population of the country district, who are tall and robust.
Character, Habits, and Customs of the People. — Within the last
forty years the language of the people has improved much, and
especially of late among the young. The natives have a striking
peculiarity of accent, which consists in lengthening the last syllable,
raising the voice upon it, and adding the sound of an a.
Palm Saturday was observed as a holiday at the grammar-
school until within the last thirty years. The scholar who pre-
sented the master with -the largest Candlemas offering was ap-
pointed king, and walked in procession with his life-guards
20 LANARKSHIRE.
and sergeants. The great and little palm branches of the Salix
caprcea in flower, and decked with a profusion of daffodils, were
carried behind him. A handsome embroidered flag, the gift of a
lady in the town to the boys, was used on this festival. The day
concluded with a ball.
On the Lanemar or Landmark-day, there are processions to in-
spect the marches of the town lands. As a method of impressing
the boundaries upon the memory, all persons who attend for the
first time are ducked in the river Mouss, in the channel of which
one of the march-stones is placed : and horse and foot races take
place upon the moor. It is a day of great festivity.
The people are, upon the whole, cleanly in their habits. But the
late severe depression in the weaving trade has reduced great num-
bers to such a state of destitution as calls for the liveliest sympathy.
They not only want decent clothing, but can hardly procure sufficient
food. At the cotton-works the people are well dressed, and live
in general very comfortably. In all parts of the parish, oat-meal
porridge for breakfast, potatoes with herrings for dinner, and again
porridge or potatoes for supper, form the usual diet of the labour-
ing-classes. Tea is used whenever it can be afforded. Poaching
prevails to a considerable extent, with its usual bad effects.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
.Agriculture and Rural Economy. — As much of the land in the
parish, both arable, waste, and in wood, has never been measured, it
is only by approximation that the following results have been
obtained :
Arable acres, Scotch statute measure, 6500
Uncultivated, 1200
Town common, 600
Under wood, „ - 600
Planted as orchards, - 36
Of late years there has been very little planting in this parish,
and that little confined to the estates of Lee and Cleghorn. An
intelligent nurseryman in the place says, that the forest trees plant-
ed in the whole of the upper ward of Lanarkshire amount to
700,000 and 900,000 annually for the last ten years. These
have been in the proportion of two parts of larch to one of spruce
and Scotch fir. The larch is found to grow best upon the high
lands, and is of more value to the planter, and hence is now in far
greater demand than about twenty-five years ago. Little oak, ash,
elm, or hard-wood, of any kind is planted, except in the more shel-
LANARK. 21
tered situations, as it is found they seldom come to perfection on
the light heathy lands.
JRent, Prices, Wages^ fyc. — The average rent of arable land is
L. 1, 3s. per Scotch statute acre ; the average price of a cow's
grazing on good land, L. 4; on inferior, L. 1, 10s. ; that of an ox
varies from L. 3 to L. 3, 10s. The common labourer's wages is
9s. per week; women get Is. per day.
Breeds of Live Stock. — There are no store-farms in the parish.
The cattle are all of the Ayrshire breed, and, owing to the pre-
miums given by the agricultural societies, they are greatly improved.
Husbandry. — A great part of the arable land is said to be unfit
for green crop. After four or five years pasture, it is top-dressed
and two crops of oats taken, with the last of which grass seeds are
sown. It is then again pastured for four or five years. About a
fourth part of it, however, is of a very superior description. It is
cultivated with a rotation of four years — 1st, oats ; 2d, green crop,
consisting of potatoes, turnips, or beans ; 3d, wheat or barley ; 4th,
hay. It is then pastured one or two years, but in many cases not
at all. The land of the orchards is generally cropped in a simi-
lar manner, but is dug instead of being ploughed ; and, instead of
its being pastured, a hay crop is taken.
A good deal has been done in the way of irrigation, principally
at Cleghorn, and likewise in draining at the joint expense of land-
lord and tenant.
The leases being for nineteen years are favourable to the occu-
pier, and the rents are in general well paid. The farms are all
small, and the buildings and enclosures indifferent.
Quarry. — There is only one lime quarry in the parish, which is
wrought partly by open cast, and partly by mining. It produces
7000 bolls annually, and has a seam of coal eighteen inches thick,
capable of burning about one-third part of the lime.
Produce. — As various courses of cropping are adopted, and the
land is of very unequal quality, the average value of the gross
produce can only be given in a very vague approximation :
Grain, L. 15,500 0 0
Green crop, 2,275 0 0
Hay, 1,625 0 0
Pasture, - 3,287 0 0
Orchards,* 300 0 0
Plantations, - 600 0 0
Lime, 700 0 0
L. 24287 0 0
Fifteen years ago, the orchards would have brought double the sum ; but of late,
LANARKSHIRE.
Manufactures. — Cotton-spinning. — The principal manufacture
in the parish is cotton-spinning at New Lanark. The establish-
ment formerly acquired very extensive notoriety, under the super-
intendence of Mr Robert Owen, son-in-law of David Dale, the
original founder. But in 1827, that gentleman ceased to have any
interest in the business, which has since been carried on under the
firm of Walker and Company.
There are 1110 persons employed in this manufacture, of whom
about 60 are mechanics and labourers. Children are not admitted
into the factory under ten years of age. The hours of work are
eleven and a quarter daily throughout the year, whatever be the
state of trade. The people are very comfortably supported, — are
in general healthy, — and, in comparison with other establishments
of the kind, remarkably decent in behaviour.
Weaving. — Another extensive branch of manufacture in the
parish is weaving, in which 873 persons are engaged ; 702 in the
town, and 171 in the country. This trade is at the very lowest
ebb, and scarcely yields the means of support to those who are
employed in it. There are a few of the weavers who, being in
the prime of life, and endowed with superior strength and skill,
can gain 8s. a-week ; but to do this, they must sit from fourteen
to sixteen hours a-day, and the exertion soon ruins the health of
the most robust. The common wages scarcely average 6s. per
week, from which a drawback must be made or Is. 3d. ; lOd.
for loom-rent, 3d. for light, and 2d. for carriage of the web. Men
advanced in life, dispirited by the remembrance of better times,
may make about 3s. 6d. The only addition to this miserable pit-
tance is what their wives can earn by winding the waft upon pirns,
and which varies from 6d. to Is. 3d. per week.*
When three or four in one family are employed, and the joint
gains are under the management of a thrifty wife, they are able to
make a tolerable shift. But nothing can exceed the misery of
those who have themselves and a family to support by their single-
handed industry. The misery they have suffered has had the un-
happy but too common effect of plunging some of them into care-
less and dissipated habits ; but the majority are well behaved and
intelligent men, and bear their hardships with commendable pa-
the value of fruit has been gradually falling, partly owing to the larger quantities
produced, and partly to its being brought from other districts to Glasgow by means
of steam-vessels, with greater safety and expedition than formerly.
* Since the above was written, the condition of the weavers has been considerably
improved, — in consequence of the cheapness of provisions, a greater supply of work,
and a small advance on the p rice of the yard.
LANARK. 23
\
tience. The following fact will illustrate the melancholy depres-
sion of this branch of industry. On Martinmas fair day 1812, a
general strike took place, and continued for nine weeks, because
a certain description of work, 1200 policuts, fell from 8d. to 6d.
per yard. For the last three years, the same description of work
has been, upon an average, at l|d. Accustomed at the former pe-
riod to better days, the weaver believed that 6d. was too low a rate
to afford him a livelihood, and it is only because it came upon them
gradually that they have been able to survive the present depres-
sion. Forced by the pressure of immediate want, they are accus-
tomed to put their children of both sexes upon the loom at the
early age of nine or twelve, by which means their numbers are con-
tinually augmenting, and the evil is increased.
Shoemaking, fyc. — There are in the parish 96 shoemakers. This
trade is at present in as flourishing a condition as was ever known.
The weekly wages which a tradesman actually gains average 8s. ;
but, with steadiness and skill, he may easily increase them to 1 2s.
Boots and shoes for foreign export are occasionally made here.
The tailors are 24 in number, and their wage is about 9s. per
week. There are 51 wrights and 34 masons, who gain about 14s.
per week. Occasionally more are required than live in the place,
but they are easily procured from the adjoining parishes. Build-
ing is rather expensive, in consequence of the distant carriage of
the materials. There are in the parish 13 smiths, 14 bakers, 8
butchers, 45 young females employed in mantua-making, 120 in
embroidering gymp lace. Three brewers carry on business to a
considerable extent in the town. There are three mills, two of
which are for grinding flour.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Town and Villages. — The town of Lanark stands in nearly the
centre of the parish. It is under the government of magistrates,
who employ five or six town-officers. A large body of constables
can likewise be called out when occasion requires. Here the prin-
cipal business transactions of the surrounding district are carried
on. There are markets on Tuesday and Saturday ; the former in
general is very numerously attended. In Lanark, as the county
town, the Sheriff and Justice of Peace courts are held, and the elec-
tion of the member of Parliament for the county takes place.
New Lanark is a large and handsome village, lying on the south-
west from the town. It stands low upon the river side, and is com-
24 LANARKSHIRE.
pletely surrounded by steep and beautifully wooded hills. It owes
its existence to David Dale, who built the first mill in 1784. It has
always been and still continues a remarkably thriving manufactory.
There are, besides, three considerable hamlets, — Cartland in the
north-west, Nemphlar in the west, and Hyndford Bridge-end in the
south-east quarter of the parish.
Means of Communication. — The parish enjoys the most ample
means of communication. There is a post-office ; fifteen miles of
turnpike road traverse the parish in different directions. In the fine
season, a stage-coach goes to and from Edinburgh every lawful
day ; in winter, three times a-w'eek. There is also a stage coach
to Glasgow, in summer twice, and in winter once a-day, — besides a
number of carriers.
There are two bridges over the Clyde. The old bridge, about
a mile below the town, is of a very indifferent description. It was
built about the middle of the seventeenth century, at an expense
of L. 56, 11s, 7d., which was raised by private contributions and
parochial collections.*
The New or Hyndford Bridge, a little more than two miles from
the town, is remarkable for its elegance. Over the Mouss, there
are no fewer than five bridges, at Cleghorn, at Lockhartford, at
Cartlane Craigs, and two at Mouss Mill. The Cartlane bridge
was built in 1822, from a design of Mr Telford, engineer, and is
one of the most beautiful in the country. The height from the
bed of the river to the parapet is 125 feet, and to the spring of the
arch 84. It has three arches of 52 feet span each.
One of the bridges at Mouss Mill is very ancient and curious ;
it has a semicircular arch. When the new one was built, this was
condemned to be demolished, but, being an object of considerable
beauty, it was purchased for L. 50, and preserved by Michael Lin-
ning, Esq. and is a great ornament to his beautiful little property
in the vicinity.
Ecclesiastical State — Patronage of the Parish. — The patronage
* The following extract from the presbytery records connected with this bridge is
curious. " March 29th 1649 It is ordained the act of Parliament which is granted
in favour of the town of Lanark for building a bridge at Clydesholm,— a work of
great necessity and public concernment, be presented to the synod that we may have
the help and advice of the synod for the furtherance of the work. April 19th 1649.
— The brethren, after their return from the synod, report to the baillies of Lanark
being then present, law willing, all the brethren of the synod were to further the work
of building a bridge at Clydesholm by a contribution of their several parishes, — and
desires the baillies not to neglect speedily to go on with the work, which the presby-
tery will further all they can."
LANARK. 25
is in the hands of the Crown ; but from the time of Charles II. it
had been claimed by the family of Lee. The Laird of Lee, in
1748, granted a presentation in favour of the Rev. Robert Dick,
one of the most pious and learned ministers ever belonging to the
church of Scotland, the king presenting at the same time the Rev.
James Gray. The people, unjustly prejudiced against the former
presentee, tumultuously opposed his induction, for which several of
them were tried. The civil question of right was at that time
brought before the Court of Session, and decided in favour of the
Laird of Lee; but, upon an appeal' to the House of Lords, this
decision was reversed, and the Crown has since exercised the pa-
tronage.
The parish church is situated in the middle of the town, and
is in so far convenient for the large majority of the population, al-
though a few families residing at the extremities of the parish may
be between four and five miles distant from it. It was built in
1774. For many years back it had been in a very dilapidated
state. During last autumn, however, it underwent considerable
repairs, by which it has been greatly improved.*
Elegant silver communion cups were anciently presented to the
church by the Laird of Lee. Lady Ross Baillie likewise present-
ed the church with a handsome baptismal bason, a clock, and a
pair of stoves, and in other ways also contributed to its comfort.
By the original contract, the church should have been seated to
accommodate 2300 persons. But such a number would scarcely
find room. There are about 100 free sittings, and these might
easily be increased, if necessary, by benches along the passages.
The manse was built in 1757. It received repairs and an addi-
tion in 1811, and is now in a tolerably comfortable state.
* The following is a list of the ministers of Lanark since the Reformation :
David Cuningham about 1562
John Leverance, 1567
James Raitt, 1574
William Birnie from 1597 to about 1615
William Livingstone 1614 1641
Robert Birnie 1643 1691
In the Second Charge.
James Kirkton 1655 1657
John Bannatyne - .-i' 1688 1707
John Orr 1708 1748
Robert Dick 1750 1754
James Gray 1755
William Menzies 179:3
The presbytery records commence in 1620.
26 LANARKSHIRE.
The glebe is four acres in extent, and is worth about L. 16 per
annum. The amount of the stipend is 19 chalders, half barley, half
meal, with L.20 for communion elements.
There is no chapel of ease attached to the Established church,
although one is much needed, especially at New Lanark.
The dissenters have three places of worship in the town, — one
Relief, the others belonging to the Burghers. One of the dissent-
ing clergymen is promised L. 120, another L.100, and the third
L. 60 per annum.
As many families and persons frequent the Established church
as can procure seats ; and here and at the Relief Chapel divine
service is well attended. The average number of communicants
at the Established church is 1100.
Religious Societies. — There is a Bible society and a ladies' Bible
association in the parish. Previously to 1827, they were accus-
tomed to send their funds to the British and Foreign Bible Society.
But since that period they have deemed it more proper to employ
them otherwise ; and to different institutions and societies for the
spread of the gospel, they have contributed the following sums : —
In 1827, L.100; in 1828, L.70; in 1829, L.80; in 1830, L.40;
in 1831, L.20; in 1832, L.20.
There is likewise a missionary society ; but neither this nor any
other institution of the kind is now prospering as it ought, and what
they have been able to effect has been in consequence of handsome
legacies left them by a benevolent lady. Formerly, the private
subscriptions and collections at the church door for religious and
charitable purposes were wont to be liberal, but of late years they
have unhappily very much decreased.
Education. — The number of schools in the parish is 12, none
of which is parochial. One is endowed, and one is supported by a
society.
The grammar-school once enjoyed high celebrity as a seminary
of education. The rector's salary amounts to L.40; that of the assist-
ant is L.20. The wages are 4s. per quarter for Latin; and 2s. 6d. for
English, writing and arithmetic Is. more. Connected with this school
there are twenty-eight bursaries ; nine of them were endowed in
1648 by Mr John Carmichael, commissary of Lanark, who mort-
gaged the lands of Batiesmains for the purpose. The rest were
endowed by one of the Earls of Hyndford, by the family of Maulds-
lie, and by a former chamberlain of the name of Thomson. The
patronage of these bursaries is in the hands of the magistrates.
LANARK. 27
They are of different value, and, after the payment of the school
fees, may leave about L. 2 or L. 3 over, for the support of each of
the boys who enjoy them. This school possesses a library, which
we have already noticed as having been left to it by Dr William
Smellie; but, as the books are principally medical, it is of little use.
Some years ago a benevolent lady of the name of Wilson en-
dowed a free school in the town of Lanark for the instruction of
fifty poor children. The sum mortgaged was L. 1200.
The subscription school has long been well managed, and is a
blessing to the place.
The teachers of the Nemphlar and Cartlane schools have each
an allowance of L. 5 yearly from the heritors. At New Lanark
there is a day-school, frequented by about 500 children, who re-
ceive instruction in the ordinary branches, more suitable to their
rank of life than the ornamental accomplishments to which, under
a former management, an exclusive attention had been paid.
In general, the people are alive to the benefits of education.
There is no part of the parish so distant as to be out of the reach
of a school, and no additional schools are required.
Libraries. — There is a subscription library on a small scale,
which is tolerably flourishing. There are also two circulating
libraries in the town. Several efforts have been made to set a week-
ly periodical agoing, but hitherto without success. A reading-room
was attempted some years ago, but failed.
Benevolent Societies. — There is at .Lanark a brotherly society,
to which about 100 persons subscribe. Its object is the relief of
members when in distress, and at the present moment five are re-
ceiving assistance from it. It would probably have declined like
other institutions of the kind in this place, but the funds were laid
out in the purchase of three roods of land in the vicinity of the town,
which is advantageously feued, and to this it owes its continuance.
There were once many more such societies; but two or three years
ago a groundless alarm, that Government meant to seize upon their
funds, produced their immediate dissolution.
At New Lanark, a sick society for the same benevolent object
is in existence. The maximum contribution is 3d. weekly ;
rate of aliment when sick, 7s. 6d. ; when recovering, 5s. ; superan-
nuated, 3s. Besides these there are 3 funeral societies in the
parish, I in Lanark, and 2 in New Lanark. On the death of a
member or his wife, the family receives L. 4, and L. 2 on the death
28 LANARKSHIRE.
of a child. The sum is gathered as occasion requires, the socie-
ties accumulating no funds.
There is a society in Lanark for the relief of sick, aged, and
indigent females. It is supported by subscriptions, &c. amount-
ing to about L. 40 annually, and has proved of signal benefit, in
distributing pecuniary relief, coals, and clothing. This society
is well conducted, and the objects carefully selected by the re-
spectable females of Lanark.
Savings Bank. — In 1815, a savings bank was instituted, in which,
for each of the last three years, there has been invested about
L. 200 ; withdrawn L. 342. The deposits are all made by the
working-classes, chiefly maid-servants. There is a sum amounting
to L. 1400 in the bank belonging to about 410 depositors.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of the poor amounts
in the in-parish to 71, in the out-parish to 36. In virtue of a mu-
tual agreement made seventy-five years ago between the two classes
of heritors, each to support their own poor, the management of
the former is in the hands of the kirk-session and in-town heritors,
while that of the latter is in the hands of the kirk-session and out-
heritors. Paupers in the burgh are paid from Is. to 10s. per month,
according to circumstances ; country paupers on an average, 5s.
per month.
The contributions at the church door now amount annually to
no more than L. 37. Of this, L. 8 are, by agreement, paid to the
landward heritors for the support of their poor. What remains
after that and the other drawbacks, together with an annual assess-
ment of L. 230, goes to maintain the poor of the in-parish ; besides
L. 70, the annual rent of the hospital lands, is distributed by the
magistrates among the poor of the burgh, and L. 40 by the cor-
poration of shoemakers to the poor belonging to them.
The landward paupers are maintained by the L. 8 received out
of the church collections, and an assessment amounting to L. 100
annually, which has been levied for a period of seventy-five years,
without undergoing any considerable increase.
Mrs Wilson mortified a sum which yields about L.32 per annum,
for the aid of indigent persons not upon the poor's roll ; and for the
same class of persons, the late Mr Howison of Hyndford, left
L. 700, which is to be invested in land, and the produce annually
distributed. Formerly it was considered disgraceful to receive pa-
rochial relief, but for some years past, this honourable feeling has
been gradually wearing away.
LANARK. 29
Jail. — There is a jail in the town, under the government of the
magistrates. But it has, for a long course of years, been in so in-
secure a condition, that none have staid in it but such as were
prisoners de bonne volonte. An act of Parliament, however, has
been obtained for the erection of County Buildings at Lanark,
including a Prison for the Upper Ward ; and the foundation stone
was laid on 21st March 1834.
Fairs. — Seven fairs are held at Lanark every year. The one
on the last Wednesday of May, old style, is for black cattle ; that
on the last Wednesday of July for lambs and horses ; and the one
in October, on the Friday after the Falkirk tryst, is for horses and
black-cattle.
Inns. — There are 53 persons licensed to keep inns in the parish.
Of these, however, 14 are merely spirit-dealers, and do not sell any
kind of liquors but in the way of retail over the counter. The
Clydesdale Hotel in this town is one of the handsomest and best
kept inns in Scotland. A few years ago, the shareholders expend-
ed L. 2400 in adding to it an elegant assembly room.
Fuel. — Fuel is excellent and cheap. Coal is brought from the
adjoining parishes, some of it six, and the rest nine miles distance,
and is laid down in the town at an expense of from 4d to 4gd per
cwt. A few peats are also cast in the adjoining moor.
April 1834. •
PARISH OF LESMAHAGO,
PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. JAMES HAMILTON, D.D.)
THE REV. JOHN WILSON, A. M. f
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name Boundaries, tyc. — THIS parish is supposed to derive its
name from Les or Lis, signifying in Gaelic, a green or garden, and
Machute, the tutelar saint of the place, who is said to have settled
here in the sixth century.
A monastery was founded in this parish by David I. in 1140.
It was dependent on the abbey of Kelso ; and hence the village
which collected round it received the name of Abbey Green,
which it still retains. This village is nearly in the centre of the
parish, and about twenty-two miles from Glasgow, upon which
the inhabitants of this and other villages in the parish depend for
employment as weavers.
• The parish may be described as nearly square, and contains
sixty-seven square miles, or 34,000 acres. It is bounded on the
east by the parishes of Lanark and Carmichael ; on the south by
Douglas, and Muirkirk ; on the west by Strathaven and Stone-
house ; and on the north by Dalserf and Carluke.
Topographical Appearances. — The average elevation of more
than three-fourths of the parish is probably about 500 feet above
the sea;^-the remainder, lying upon the west and south-west
side, rises into considerable hills, dividing the counties of Lanark
and Ayr, some of which may be supposed to be 1200 feet high.
They afford an excellent sheep-pasture. On the south side of
the parish there is a fissure in the rocks known by the name of
Wallace's Cave ; if ever that hero inhabited it, his lodging could
not be of the most comfortable kind.
Meteorology. — The elevated situation of the parish renders the
temperature of the atmosphere very variable ; and, not unfrequent-
ly, the fruit-trees, after promising an abundant crop, have had
* This Account has been drawn up by Andrew Smith, Esq. of Fauldhouse.
LESMAHAGO. 31
their blossoms blighted by a few chilly nights in May. In rainy
weather, the hills upon the west seem to attract the clouds, and,
consequently, more rain falls there than in the lower parts of the
parish ; Jbut even there, want of moisture is not generally com-
plained of. The prevailing winds may be said to be from the
westward, — every tree or hedge that is exposed leaning from that,
and making their most vigorous shoots in an opposite direction.
Upon the whole, however, the climate may be said to be salubrious,
and instances of longevity are numerous.
Hydrography. — This parish abounds in springs of excellent wa-
ter ; though none of a medicinal quality have been yet discovered.
These springs are the parents of several streams, capable of driv-
ing machinery. The Poniel water, which rises in the south-west
of the parish, divides it from the parish of Douglas, and after a
course of seven or eight miles in an easterly direction, joins the
Douglas water about three miles from its junction with the Clyde ;
for which three miles the united stream becomes the boundary of
the parish. The Logan, Nethan, and also the Kype water rise
in the high grounds on the west. The banks of the Nethan
are generally clothed with coppice, and adorned with gentlemen's
houses, or neat farm-steadings.
The Kype, so far as it divides this parish from Avondale or
Strathaven, is a moorland stream, — naked and unadorned on its
banks, but capable of working mischief on the lower grounds, when
thunder storms have passed along the hills. In consequence of
these grounds being much drained within these few years, the water
descends more rapidly than formerly, and in greater quantities, de-
stroying bridges and injuring the small haughs or holms. There
are some other small streams that run a few miles in the parish,
but all are tributary to the above, with the exception of the Can-
nar, which, after a course of a few miles, joins the Avon in the
parish of Stonehouse. As all these streams ultimately join the
Clyde, where it is from three to four hundred feet above the sea,
their courses are pretty rapid.
Geology. — This parish lies nearly on the south side of the great
coal field which crosses our island through Fife, Ayrshire, and the
intermediate counties. Nevertheless, the strata are so deranged
by numerous dikes or fissures, that, where coals are wrought, the
direction and inclination of the strata vary so materially, as to set
hopes and expectations at defiance. In several of the coal and
32 LANARKSHIRE.
lime-works, the dip is as one in six ; while at Auchenheath, where,
as well as in two other places in this parish, a fine kind of cannel
coal is wrought, supplying Glasgow and other places with gas, the
inclination is only one to twelve, or thirteen. Coal of the same
quality has (we believe) been nowhere found in Scotland ; and even
here, and in a small corner of the parish of Carluke, to which it
extends, the thickness of the strata varies from ten to twenty-one
inches ; it is sold for about 8s. per ton upon the coal-hill, and
affords employment to about forty pickmen in this parish. Pit-
coal is also plentiful in Lesmahago.
The rocks that appear are either whin, or trap sandstone, or
limestone ; in some places the sandstone inclines to slate, but no
true roofing-slate has been discovered in this parish. Limestone
has been wrought, and still is wrought in seven or eight different
places in the parish. Though sold at a pretty fair price, affording
the landlord about one-sixth of the sale price, it has given a stimu-
lus to improvement, particularly of waste lands. In these lime-
stone workings, petrified shells are very commonly found ; and
sometimes the fossil remains of terrestrial animals. Ironstone may
be seen in many of the banks, both in balls and in regular strata,
but not in such quantities, nor lying so regularly, as to warrant the
erection of a furnace. 'Lead has frequently been sought in the-
high grounds, on the south-west of the parish, but hitherto with-
out success ; nor have simple minerals been found in the rocks,
or beds of rivers, to any extent.
From the rapid current of the streams, little alluvial soil is found
in the parish ; it may therefore be said to consist chiefly of a yel-
low clay, to a small extent resting on a substratum of white sand-
stone ; of a light friable soil, resting on whinstone ; of a Fandy
gravelly soil, from decomposed sandstone, and of moss. The se-
cond of these is unquestionably the best ; but both that and the
first, when properly managed, produce better and more certain
crops than the other two.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
A short account of this parish was written by the Rev. Mr
Whyte of Libberton, and published in the Edinburgh Magazine
about sixty years ago.
Historical Notices. — There are no historical events of import-
ance connected with Lesmahago, except the burning by the bro-
LESMAHAGO. 33
ther of Edward III. of the abbey, and its destruction a second
time by fire, kindled by the zeal of the old reformers. This religi-
ous spirit appears to have here broken forth on more occasions ; for
many of the inhabitants bore arms at Bothwell Bridge. The co-
lours and the drum then used are still preserved in the parish.
It was in Lesmahago that the unfortunate Mr Macdonald of
Kinlochmoidart was apprehended by a carpenter named Meikle,
and a young clergyman of the name of Linning, — while on his
way south to join Prince Charles ; in revenge for which, the clans,
on their way north, burned Meikle's house. A Mr Lawrie, gene-
rally designated the Tutor of Blackwood, from his having married
the heiress of that estate, seems to have been a leading character
in this part of the country in and about the time of the Revolution.
His son was created a baronet by King William.
Land-owners. — The Duke of Hamilton, Lord Douglas, and
James J. Hope Vere, Esq. of Blackwood, are the principal pro-
prietors in Lesmahago ; there are a number of other respectable
land -owners, several of whom Reside upon their properties.
Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers commence in
1697; since which time they have been pretty regularly kept, and
now extend to twenty volumes.
Antiquities. — Lesmahago can boast of little to attract the no-
tice of the antiquarian, excepting the ruins of Craignethan Castle ;
which about a century ago passed from the family of Hay into that
of Douglas, by purchase.
The remains of an old abbey were pulled down about thirty years
ago, to make room for a modern church ; and an old Roman road,
which passed through a corner of the parish, has been obliterated by
the plough. — About twenty years ago, 100 small silver coins of Ed-
ward I. were found below a large stone. — Nearly at the same time
a Roman vase was found in the parish ; it is now placed in the
museum of the University of Glasgow. Some Roman coins have
also been found ; and in making a drain about ten years ago, an
old Caledonian battle-axe, made of stone, was found upon the es-
tate of Blackwood. It is now in the possession of the proprietor.
Many large cairns have been removed in this parish, for mate-
rials in making roads and fences. These were always found to
contain bones in the centre, but so far decayed as to crumble into
dust on exposure to the air.
Modern Buildings. — A number of modern mansions have been
erected by the resident gentlemen within the last thirty years, and
LANARK. C
34 LANARKSHIRE.
during that time upwards of one-half of the farm-steadings have
been renovated ; for which purposes abundance of good stone is
easily procured.
III. — POPULATION.
1. In 1801 the population was - 8070
1811, 4464
1821, 5592
1831, 6409
2. Number of families in the parish, 1168
of families chiefly employed in agriculture, 302
chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 466
3. The average number of births yearly, for the last 7 years, - - 150
of deaths, 64
of marriages, 52
4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - 2968
up wards of 70, 313
There are about 90 small proprietors in Lesmahago ; of whom
at least 50 have rentals of upwards of L. 50 a-year.
The increase of the population betwixt 1821 and 1831 may be
accounted for by the facility with which even boys engaged at
weaving got possession of money ; able to earn considerable wages
before they had acquired sense to manage them, many hurried into
matrimonial connections ; and their wives being equally young and
thoughtless, they indulged in dress and luxuries, and preserved no
portion of their gains against poverty in less auspicious seasons.
Character and Habits of the People. — The people in general
may be said to be of cleanly habits, which are impaired, however,
in some degree, by the influx of strangers. Their style and man-
ner of dress, however, may be said to be rather expensive, the ser-
vant-girl dressing as gaily as the squires' daughters did thirty years
ago. The difference in their table has nearly kept pace with that
of their dress ; and, with few exceptions, unless among those em-
ployed in agriculture, tea is an universal beverage ; even paupers
consume more of that article than was used in the parish fifty years
ago. How far these changes tend to the comforts and be-
nefit of society may be questioned. Certainly the lower orders
are not so contented nor independent as formerly; nor is their
general character for morality or religion improved ; while there
cannot be a doubt that pauperism has greatly increased. The
number of illegitimate births during the last three years has been
27.
Until the weaving of cotton was introduced about forty-five years
ago, no trade or manufacture was carried on beyond the wants of
LESMAHAGO. 35
the parish. A cottage or two was attached to every farm-house,
for the accommodation of the necessary labourers ; along with whom
the small proprietors and farmers shared in the toils of the day ;
joined at the same table in their meals ; and, by the side of the
kitchen fire, enjoyed the song or gossip of the evening, — conclud-
ing the day with family-prayer. A fire in the better apartment,
except on the visit of a friend, or on some gala day, was never
thought of. Their dress was composed of home-made stuff, ex-
cepting a suit of black, which was generally of English cloth,
and carefully preserved for funeral and sacramental occasions.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
As before stated, this parish contains about 34,000 Scotch acres;
of which, probably, 11,000 never have been under cultivation.
About 1000 acres may yet be brought to carry grain occasionally,
if the spirit of improvement, now so general, be not checked.
1200 acres are planted; 450 are in coppice-wood, and 50 in vil-
lage gardens and orchards. 21,300 acres thus appear to be now,
or occasionally, in cultivation.
Planting in general has been carried on within these forty years
to a considerable extent in Lesmahago, which before that period
was naked and bare. Now, however, it has a very different ap-
pearance, and almost everywhere the eye of the traveller may
rest on useful stripes or clumps. In these the Scotch fir predo-
minates, though that plant seems very much degenerated ; wher-
ever it is mixed with the larch, the latter takes the lead ; and
in damp soils it is also far behind the spruce. Were we to hazard
an opinion on the cause of this degeneracy of Scotch fir, we
would say it might be found in the careless way in which the nur-
serymen procure the seed, which, when collected from the nearest
young and stunted trees, produces feeble plants. Another circum-
stance tending much to prevent the proper growth, is- the want of
thinning in proper time. Few people who plant, like the idea of
cutting.
Rent of Land. — The quality of land varies very much : some of
it is very rich, but unfortunately the poorer soil predominates. The
average rent of the whole may be stated at L. 1 per acre Scotch,
— while the waste lands may be estimated at 2s. 6d., — giving a ren-
tal for the parish, exclusive of woods and orchards, of L. 22,675.
The inclosed lands around gentlemen's houses are generally let
for pasture during the summer, yielding a rent of about L. 3 for
every cow or ox weighing from 400 to 500 Ibs. weight. In the com-
36 LANARKSHIRE.
mon sheep-pastures, 5s. a-head during the season may be stated
as a fair rent.
Rate of Wages. — Farm-servants are not so high priced, nor so
difficult to be got as they were a few years back ; at present, a good
man-servant, fit for the plough, &c. may be hired for L. 14 a-year,
with bed and board; while less experienced hands may be had from
L.9 to L. 12; girls fit for conducting a dairy, under the eye of their
mistresses, get about L. 4 during the summer, and about L. 2, 10s.
during winter, with board. Tradesmen generally work by the
piece or job ; but, like the labourers, are getting less wages than
lately, nor are they so shy to work by the day ; when they do so,
masons and carpenters expect 2s. 6d. a-day, without victuals ; and
tailors Is. 3d. or Is. 6d. with board.
Breeds of Live Stock. — From the elevation of Lesmahago parish,
it is better suited for the dairy, and the breeding of cattle, than
for raising grain ; consequently, the small proprietors and tenants
have turned their attention in these ways for the last thirty years.
During that time, the Ayrshire breed of cattle has been principal-
ly reared ; and the cheese made from new milk, known by the
name of Dunlop, has become a staple commodity. Of this about
300 Ibs. weight may be made from every cow, when the whole milk
is turned to that account ; and on some farms, with careful hands,
that quantity, is raised, and a number of young stock reared, —
which goes to uphold the original stock, or to supply the English
and other markets with that breed of cattle. Lanarkshire has
long been famous for its breed of draught horses, of which Les-
mahago has its share.
The Jewish antipathy against swine seems to be wearing off, and
the occupiers of land find it profitable to keep a few of these ani-
mals, to consume the refuse of the dairy ; and many labourers and
mechanics Keep a pig, by the dung of which they raise potatoes with
a neighbouring farmer in the following year. A mixed breed, be-
tween the English and Highland kind, seems the favourite ; which,
when properly fed, may be killed at the age of nine or ten months,
weighing from two to two and a-half hundred weight. It is pro-
bable this kind of stock may be more attended to hereafter.
The sheep kept on the high grounds are of the old Scotch
black-faced kind, weighing from ten to fifteen pounds imperial per
quarter, when fattened. This breed is better adapted to the soil
and climate than the Cheviot or finer kinds ; and the improvements
sought after by the sheep-master are in shape and weight ; to both
of which they pay particular attention. By keeping fewer in num-
LESMAHAGO. 37
her than was done forty years ago, they are better fed, and are
thus enabled to struggle with the storms and snows of winter ; while
surface-drains made upon the soft lands, at the rate of L. 3 for
6000 yards, have added greatly to their improvement, by keeping
the ground dry, and raising sweeter herbage.
Husbandry. — A very considerable extent of waste land has been
reclaimed in Lesmahago within the last twenty-five years ; which
has generally paid the improvement in the course of the first three
years, leaving the amelioration of the soil as profit to the farmer.
Draining had long been only partially carried on, but seems now
to become more general. Irrigation is little attended to here, ex-
cept, in a few instances, for meadow hay ; and embanking is not
much wanted, as the streams have generally high and steep banks.
The leases granted ^o tenants are generally for nineteen years.
Some time ago, when land was constantly increasing in value,
landlords in some instances made the leases of shorter duration ;
but this has not had the effect of either putting money into their
pockets, or improving their estates : it has rather been of a con-
trary tendency. As mentioned before, the farm-houses have been
much improved within the last forty years ; and within the same
time, enclosures have been much attended to ; some hundreds of
miles of Galloway stone-dikes have been built, where the materials
were abundant, or the soil inimical to hedges ; while the last have
been raised upon the better soils, and now adorn a great propor-
tion of the parish. It may be regretted, however, that we still want
those hedge-rows of timber, which in many parts of the island give
the appearance of a close-wooded country.
The greatest obstacles to improvement appears to be the sys-
tem of entails ; and, I may add, the custom among landlords of let-
ting their farms to the highest bidder, without a sufficient evidence
of his possessing capital adequate to the management of the farm
in the most advantageous way.
Produce. — The gross amount of raw produce (exclusive of the
pasture lands) raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertain-
ed, is as follows :
20,000 quarters of grain, say at L. 1, 5s. per quarter, - L. 25,000 0 0
600 acres of potatoes, and 50 of turnips, average value L. 14 per acre, 9,100 0 0
1200 tons of cultivated hay, at L. 3 per ton, and 300 tons of mea-
dow, at L. 2 per ton, ... 4,200 0 0
Thinnings of wood, i . _ . _ 490 Q 0
Cutting of coppice, - * , ,• . •*.',' » >,% 250 0 0
Total, L. 38,950 0 0
38 LANARKSHIRE.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
There are no market-towns in the parish, the nearest being La-
nark, at the distance of six miles from Abbey Green. Upwards of
one-third of the population, however, are congregated in the vil-
lages of Abbey Green, Kirkmuirhill, Kirkfield Bank, Boghead, and
Nethanfoot, all of which villages have a regular communication
with Glasgow by means of coaches and carriers ; and there is a daily
post to the former.
Means of Communication. — Besides the Glasgow and Carlisle
road, which runs upwards of eight miles in the parish, and the Glas-
gow and Lanark road, running about five, there are not less than
eighty miles of parish roads kept up by converted statute labour
money : and of these fifty miles at least are in very tolerable order.
Bridges have been built, partly from the county funds, upon all the
streams crossed by these lines of road.
Ecclesiastical State. — Lesmahago has been a collegiate charge
ever since the Reformation. The church is in the village of Abbey
Green, in the centre of the parish. It is capable of containing
1500 sitters, — the whole being divided among the heritors for
their respective tenantry, according to their respective valuations,
with the exception of a pew to each clergyman. The first minis-
ter has a glebe of eight acres (Scotch,) which might be let at
L. 5 per acre ; with a stipend of sixteen chalders, one half oat-
meal and the other barley, converted, at the highest fiars price of
the county, and yielding on an average of the last seven years,
L. 277, 12s. The second minister has a manse and garden, but
no glebe : — he has the same stipend as the first, and rents a small
farm from the patron, on which the heritors have built his house
and the requisite accommodations.
There are two dissenting chapels belonging to different deno-
minations of Burghers ; both of these have been lately erected.
The officiating clergymen are paid from the seat rents, and from
voluntary contributions, affording about L. 100 a-year to each.
Although these houses have still the enticement of novelty, by far
the greater number in the parish adhere to the Established church,
in which divine service is well attended. The average number
of communicants at the Established church is about 1700. The
number of dissenters is about 200.
Education. — The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum sa-
lary, with a good house and garden ; he has also perquisites as ses-
sion-clerk, amounting to L. 22 a-year. His school-fees may amount
4
LESMAHAGO. 39
to L. 45. The heritors have assessed themselves in an additional
chalder, which is divided among a few other schools, enabling those
at a distance from the parish school, to educate their children in
English, writing, and arithmetic, and sometimes even in Greek and
Latin, at an expense of from 3s. to 5s. a quarter, according to their
studies. The consequence is, that reading and writing may be said
to be universal, and at present the different schools are attended by
upwards of 600 children. A subscription school for teaching girls
to read and sew is also kept up in the village of Abbey Green ; it
is attended by about 30. There are also four well attended Sab-
bath schools for boys and girls. It does not, however, appear very
evidently that either the conduct or morals of the people have
been improved by the increased facilities of education : the vices
of drunkenness and pilfering, from whatever cause, have certainly
not decreased, while discontent has made rapid strides, and the
reluctance to come upon the poors' roll has vanished.
Library, $c. — There is a small subscription library in the parish,
but it is not in a very thriving state. The parishioners at the
same time receive a variety of the London, Edinburgh, and Glas-
gow newspapers and periodicals.
Benevolent Societies. — There are three Societies in the parish,
which distribute a portion of their funds among their aged or sickly
members : the inclination, however, to join in such associations, it
is feared, is now declining.
Savings Bank. — A Savings bank was established a few years ago.
The principal depositors are farm and house-servants : and it is
now in a thriving state. The average amount yearly invested is
L. 60; withdrawn, L. 20.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers has been
trebled within the last thirty years, and now amounts to 148 regu-
larly enrolled. There being neither alms nor poors' house in the
parish, they receive from 3s. to 15s. monthly in their own houses,
amounting to about L. 500 yearly; of this sum, L.47 is raised by
collections in the. church ; and L. 98 is the produce of mortified
money; the remainder is made up by an assessment upon the land,
one-half paid by the heritors, and the other by the tenants. Too
little attention, however, is paid to this branch of parochial busi-
ness; the session, by giving up the practice of collecting with
ladles in the church, and individuals by propagating the idea that
the heritors are bound to support the poor, have brought the public
collection below what it was a hundred years ago, when the popu-
40 LANARKSHIRE.
lation was less than half what it is now, and money four times the
value.
Inns. — There has been an increase in the number of inns, or
rather whisky shops, in the parish, at the rate of six to one, within
the last forty years ; which either tends to, or is a proof of, the de-
moralization of the inhabitants ; at present their number is as
one to less than every 250 souls in Lesmahago.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
This parish has undergone a great change since the last Sta-
tistical Account was published ; the population has greatly in-
creased ; the lands have been generally inclosed ; plantations have
sprung up ; roads, from mere tracts, have become good carriage
ways; and these, with the opening up of lime in several places,
have given a facility to improvements in agriculture which has not
been neglected; an improved mode of husbandry has been adopted ;
draining has been introduced ; and waste lands to a great extent
have been brought into cultivation. These improvements, how-
ever, may, with due encouragement on the part of the landlords,
be carried still farther, and, by giving employment to labourers,
would add to the comfort and happiness of that useful class of so-
ciety, and tend to the diminution of pauperism, — objects which
ought never to be lost sight of by judicious landlords.
March 1834.
UNITED PARISH OF
LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUAN.
PRESBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE,
THE REV. ALEXANDER CRAIK, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Extent — THE parish of Quothquan was annexed to that of
Libberton in the year 1669. The united parish extends from north
to south about seven miles, and from east to west about four and
a-half miles. It contains nearly 1 4 square miles, or 8703 impe7
rial acres.
Topographical Appearances, — Along the whole course of the
Clyde in this parish, there is a great extent of low level land, con-
sisting of a strong clay soil, a considerable portion of which is covered
with water as often as the Clyde overflows its banks, which gene-
rally happens ten or twelve times in the year ; and the soil being
enriched by these inundations, produces luxuriant crops, without
any other manure. Where these holm lands are embanked, (which
is done when it can be effected without great expense,) the crops
are protected against the inroads of the river; but in this, as in other
cases, manure is required to renew the soil.
The banks of the Clyde rise gently, but in some places rather
suddenly, to the height of 50 or 60 feet above the stream, and ex-
tend to the distance of half a mile or more beyond it. The land
on the banks of the Clyde is generally early and fertile, and its
average rent L. 2, 10s. per acre. As the land recedes from the
Clyde, it becomes more elevated, later, and less productive ; and
though there are some early and fertile spots near the Medwin, the
banks of that river are for the most part poor and moorish.
Meteorology. — On this head, it may be only remarked, that a
greater quantity of rain falls here than on the east coast.
The climate is neither so warm nor so dry as to render the cul-
ture of wheat an object ; but other kinds of grain succeed very well
42 LANARKSHIRE.
in ordinary seasons; and the inhabitants of this parish are subject
to as few diseases, and are as healthy, on the whole, as those of
any other parish in Scotland. This must be owing, in a great
measure, to the pure keen air they breathe, as well as to the ge-
neral temperance of their habits.
Hydrography. — The only rivers in this parish are the Clyde and
the Medwin. The Clyde, when swollen by rain, overflows all the
low grounds on its banks, doing much damage to the growing crops
within its reach. The farmers, however, often carry off the crops
as they are cut, beyond the reach of the inundation. The breadth
of the Clyde in this parish is from 100 to 120 feet, and its depth
from 15 to 1 foot. There are several fords when the stream is
low ; but in winter they are often impassable.
The South Medwin, which bounds Libberton parish for three
miles, rises near Garvaldfoot, in the parish of West Linton, and,
after a course of nine miles, is joined by the North Medwin, in this
parish, about a mile and a-half before they both fall into the Clyde.
A small branch of the South Medwin runs off" towards the east,
near Garvaldfoot, and, dividing at Dolphington, the counties of La-
nark and Peebles, falls into the Tweed. The South Medwin,
within its usual channels, is in general about 22 feet broad, and 2
or 3 feet deep, at an average. When united, the Medwins are
not much broader, but of greater mean depth.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
It appears from Wodrow's History that, in the year 1663, the
parish of Libberton was fined L. 252, 8s. Scots, and Quothquhan
L. 182, 16s. Scots, for nonconformity to Prelacy.
Chief Land-owners. — The chief land-owner is Sir Norman Mac-
donald Lockhart, Bart, of Lee and Carnwath.
Family of Chancellor of Shieldhill. — The second land-owner is
Alexander Chancellor, Esq. of Shieldhill, whose ancestors have
been in possession of this estate for the last four centuries, as appears
from a charter still extant, * granted by Thomas Lord Sommerville
to William Chancellor of Shieldhill and Quothquhan, A. D. 1432.
In July 1474, William Chancellor rode with the rest of the then
Lord Sommerville's vassals to meet King James on his way from
Edinburgh to Couthally Castle, to partake of the festivity of the
" speates and raxes." f
* This charter is referred to in the Memoirs of the Sommervilles, Vol. i. p. 175.
f Ibid. pp. 240-248.
LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUAN. 43
After the battle of Bothwell Bridge, James Chancellor was im-
prisoned on suspicion of having harboured some fugitives; but no-
thing being proved against him, he was liberated after some days
confinement. * The same gentleman was returned as elder by the
presbytery of Biggar to the first General Assembly which met after
the revolution of 1688.f
The family residence was originally at Quothquan, and remain-
ed there till 1567, when the then proprietor joined Queen Mary's
party at Hamilton, and engaged in the battle of Langside. After
her defeat, a party of 500 horsemen, sent out by Regent Murray to
demolish the houses of her adherents, burned down, among others,
the mansion-house at Quothquan. After this calamity, the family
residence was removed to Shieldhill, which appears originally to
have been a square tower of no great dimensions, but which has at
different times been added to and modernized, particularly by the
present proprietor.
At a short distance to the southward from Shieldhill is the man-
sion-house of Huntfield, the property of John Stark, Esq., surround-
ed by thriving plantations.
Parochial Register. — The earliest date of the parochial registers
is 1717. They consist of two volumes, and refer to births and
baptisms, marriages and burials. The registration by dissenters
is somewhat irregular ; but otherwise the records are satisfactorily
kept.
Antiquities. — About half a mile south-west from the church, are
to be seen the ruins of a fortification or camp, — improperly called
Roman, as its form is circular. It stands on the edge of a high
and barren moor, about half a mile from the Clyde, and commands
an extensive view of that river to the south and west. It contains
about 1 \ acres, and is surrounded by a double wall of earth, a deep
ditch intervening.
III. — POPULATION.
" From the session records," according to the Statistical Account
of the late Mr Fraser, " it appears that the births in this parish from
April 1683 to April 1753, amounted exactly to 2205, the annual
average of which is 31 J. The marriages during the same period
amounted to 563, the annual average of which is little more than
* Wodrow's Church History.
•f- Records of the Biggar Presbytery.
44 LANARKSHIRE
8." The return to Dr Webster in 1755 gave 708 persons examin-
able, or above 8 years of age.
In 1811, the population was 749
1821, -. 785
1831, 773
The decrease of population may be imputed to the consolidation
of farms, the non-residence of heritors, the removal of part of the
population to towns in quest of employment, and of late to Ame-
rica,— twenty individuals having emigrated to that country from
this parish in the year 1831.
There are 8 proprietors in this parish, having yearly rentals of
L. 100 and upwards. The gross rental of the parish is L. 4561.
1. Number of families in the parish, - 152
of families chiefly employed in agriculture, . • ' 80
chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 36
2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 7
of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, 33
3. The average number of births yearly, for the last 7 years, 14
of deaths, 9
of marriages, - 7
4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - 331
up wards of 70, 18
Character of the People. — They are generally sober, frugal, and
industrious, and, as a proof^of this, there is not an alehouse in
the parish. I regret to add, however, that illicit intercourse be-
twixt the sexes has become more common than it appears to have
been forty or fifty years ago ; the number of illegitimate births be-
ing not less on an average than three in the year. I should add,
too, that poaching is not uncommon, and is hardly considered to
be unlawful.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture and Rural Economy. —
Arable, 5403 imperial acres.
Waste or pasture land, 2500
Land worth the cultivating, - 300
Land under wood, - 500
8703
Rent of Land. — Average rent of land per acre is L. 1, 5s. ; ave-
rage cost of grazing an ox or cow per year, L. 3 ; grazing a quey,
L. 1, 10s, ; grazing a sheep, 14s.
Rate of Wages. — Yearly wages of a ploughman, with victuals,
L. 12; of a maid-servant, L. 6, 10s.; of a boy or girl, L.2; la-
LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUAN. 45
bourers, per day, without victuals, Is. 9d.; masons, 2s. 6d ; wrights,
2s. 6d. ; smith's work per Ib. of iron, 6d. In the time of harvest,
labourers' wages with victuals, L. 2 ; womens' 30s.
Breeds of Live Stock. — The common breed of cattle is the Ayr-
shire, and of sheep a cross between the Cheviot and Leicester.
Both are improved by the frequent introduction of new stock.
Husbandry. — The general method of farming on dry lands is
in six divisions, by the following rotation of crops, viz 1 . corn ; 2. fal-
low or green crop ; 3. corn ; 4. hay ; 5. pasture ; 6. pasture. On
rich lands lying near the Clyde, four divisions are observed, viz.
1. corn; 2. green crop; 3. corn: 4. hay.
Every encouragement has been given by the proprietors to in-
dustrious tenants. In the southern and western parts of the pa-
rish, where enclosures can be considered advantageous, the whole
of the lands are enclosed, either by stone-dikes or hedges and
ditches. In other districts of the parish, there are no enclosures
of any description. A good deal of improvement has been effect-
ed in draining wet lands, but very little of any consequence in re-
claiming waste lands. On one estate about fifty acres have been
reclaimed within fifteen or twenty years.
The duration of leases in the parish is nineteen years. In the
southern division the state of farm-buildings is considered supe-
rior to that of those on almost any estate in the neighbourhood of
equal extent. In the course of the last seven years the greater
part of the farm-steadings has been rebuilt substantially. The
others have been repaired, and by enlargements every suitable
accommodation has been given to the tenants. In the rest of the
parish, the farm-buildings are generally bad, and incommodious.
The face of the country would still be much improved by en-
closures and belts of planting, judiciously made. A good deal
has been done in this respect of late years : and on the lands of
Cormiston, Shieldhill, Huntfield, and Whitecastle, more than
400 acres of larch, Scotch and spruce fir, intermixed with va-
rieties of hard wood, have been planted by their respective proprie-
tors. These plantations are at present in a thriving state, and are
already, or will, ere long, be a great ornament to the vicinity. On
the property of Huntfield alone, there are 250 imperial acres under
wood, the greater portion of which has been planted within the last
twenty years. A great part of Libberton moor, which is now a
barren waste, if sheltered, drained, jind subdivided by belts of
planting, and let in small pendicles to industrious cottagers at little
46 LANARKSHIRE.
or no rent for some years, would soon be reclaimed ; and at no very
great expense rendered no less profitable to the proprietor, than
ornamental to the neighbourhood.
Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in
the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertained, is as follows :
Oats, 6020 bolls, at 18s. per boll, ^ - - - L. 5418 0 0
As my predecessor, Mr Eraser, in his Statistical Account, states
the number of acres sown in oats forty years ago at 2123, which
at only five bolls per acre, a very moderate average, would amount
to 10,615 bolls, and as a still greater quantity is produced now,
the feed and seed oats cannot be included in the above. Feed
oats mean the meal used by the family and servants, and the corn
consumed by the cattle on a farm ; and seed oats those required
to sow it. Many farms in the parish afford an average of 8 or 9
bolls per Scotch acre.
Barley and bear, _ - 700 0 0
Turnips, 3400 tons, at 5s. per ton, - 850 0 0
Potatoes, 2400 bolls of 4 cwt. at 5s. per boll, •'- - - 602 10 0
Rye-grass, 32,240 stones of 22 Ibs. at 6d. per stone, - - 806 0 0
Meadow hay, 8000 stones, at 4d. per stone, ... 133 6 0
Produce of cattle and sheep grazed, .*,." . 11 00 0 0
Do. of the dairy in butter and cheese, at L 7 per cow, is - 3395 0 0
Gross amount, - L. 13004 16 0
A considerable portion of most of the above articles is consumed
by the horses and cattle.
Number of milk cows in the parish, - 485
Do. of queys and stots reared and bred, - 190
Number of horses, '. - - _ 120
of carts, ]08
of ploughs, - , ;-. • 49
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Carnwath is the nearest market-town. It is 2J miles from
Libberton church.
Means of Communication. — There is no toll-road in the parish,
except the one betwixt Glasgow and Peebles, which passes through
the north-east corner of it for nearly a mile ; and many of the pa-
rish roads are bad, as they extend about 30 miles, and would re-
quire far more funds to put and keep them in repair than the pa-
rish could afford.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church was built in 1812, and
had the heritors laid out L. 40 or L. 50 more upon it, it would have
lasted sixty or seventy years longer than it will do. It is feared
that from damp much of the wood, both in the galleries and below,
LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUAN. 47
will soon rot. The church affords accommodation to 450 persons,
and is amply sufficient for the whole population.
The manse was built in 1824, and is a good house; but the
offices are indifferent.
The glebe extends to about 8 Scotch acres, and is worth L. 16
yearly.
The stipend is 15 chalders, or 240 bolls Linlithgow measure,
of grain, half meal and half barley, besides L. 8, 6s. 8d. for com-
munion elements.
There are no chapels of ease, nor dissenting chapels in the parish.
The number of dissenters above twelve years of age is about 170,
— much the same number as was found by the present writer when
he entered to the parish in 1813. The dissenters generally be-
> long either to Seceding or Relief congregations in Biggar, which
is nearer to some parts of the parish than the parish church.
There are only two Episcopalian families in the parish, who have
no chapel within 20 miles. The average number of communicants
at the parish church is from 200 to 220.
Education. — There are two schools in the parish, viz. the paro-
chial school at the church town of Libberton, and the school of
Quothquan ; the latter is supported by a mortification of L. 2,
10s. L. 6 for house rent yearly, and the school fees; there are
also attached to it a good school and school-house, built last sum-
mer.
There is also a Sunday school taught at Quothquan, which is
attended by 25 scholars, and is superintended partly by the teacher
at Quothquan, and partly by the private tutor at Shieldhill.
The salary of the parochial teacher is L. 30, and the amount
of school fees does not exceed L. 20 a-year. In Quothquan
school the school fees must be considerably less. The parochial
teacher has the legal accommodations. There are no persons born
and brought up in the parish, who cannot read and write.
There is a parochial library in the parish ; also a Friendly So-
ciety, which was instituted in 1811 for the relief of its distressed
members.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — At present there are 13 poor per-
sons receiving each about an average of L. 4 yearly. The amount
of annual contributions for the poor is about L. 58, of which L. 45
arises from voluntary assessment, one-half of which is paid by the
proprietors, and the other half by the tenants. The church col-
lections amount to L. 1 1 ; and there is also the interest of L. 40,
48 LANARKSHIRE.
— L. 1, 16s. There is less disposition among the poor to refrain
from seeking parochial relief than formerly, nor do they now con-
sider it so degrading.
fuel— The fuel chiefly used is coal, procured either from the
parish of Douglas, at the distance of ten miles, or from Cleugh, in
the parish of Carnwath, nine miles distant from the church town of
Libberton.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
As a proof of the great rise in the value of land in this parish
within these last thirty or forty years, the property of Whitecastle,
situated in the most elevated district of the parish, was purchased
about forty years ago, for about L. 2700 ; and it has yielded an an •
nual rent, for these nineteen years past, of L. 283, which is not ac-
counted too high. About thirty-two years ago, a property was
purchased for the same sum, in the southern district of the parish ;
the annual rent of which is now L. 345.
It may be added, that the farmers labour under great disadvan-
tages from their high rents, the difficulty of communication with
good and ready markets, and their liability to have their crops of
corn and potatoes injured by frosts in autumn ; in consequence of
which they have not only a deficiency of produce, but are obliged
to purchase their seed at a dear rate from a distance. In certain
districts, chiefly the poorest, and most elevated of the parish, there
is a disease incident to cows called the stiffness, the cause or cure
of which has never yet been well ascertained, but which generally
proves fatal to its victims. It is a general wasting, or atrophy,
which attacks cattle in the spring or winter months, and reduces
them to skeletons. Their only chance of recovery is in their re-
moval to a richer pasture, before the disease has far advanced.
March 1834.
PARISH OF DOLPHINTON.
PRESBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE.
THE REV. JOHN AITON, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name — Boundaries. — A Dolphin fish is represented in the arms
of the principal heritor; but the name of Dolphinstown, as it was an-
ciently spelled, seems with more probability to be derived from that
of one of the early proprietors of the manor. Dolfine, the eldest
brother of,Coss Patrick, first Earl of Dunbar, acquired this property
during t^reign of Alexander I., about the begining of the twelfth
cent; , the district of the country from which he came, a
village with the ruins of an ancient castle still retains his name ;
and there are other places of the same appellation in Roxburgh-
shire and in West Lothian.*
The parish is 3 miles long from east to west, 2J broad, and con-
tains 2926 statute acres. I ts form is nearly that of an oblong
square, bounded by Linton, Walston, Dunsyre, and Kirkurd.
Topographical Appearances. — Dolphinton hill is in height above
the level of the sea about 1550 feet. This and the hill of Wai-
ston adjoining to it, are separated about a mile from the west end of
the Pentlands, and form with Tinto, which is five miles to the west-
ward, so many connecting links of one of the great collateral chains
which gird our island, from St Abb's Head to Ailsay Craig.
With the exception of Keir-hill, which rises in a conical shape
about 250 feet high, the rest of the land in the parish is arable,
with a moderate acclivity in an altitude of from 700 to 800 feet.f
Meteorology* — During the last two months of spring and first of
summer, the wind generally blows from the east or north-east. In
[arch and April it dries up from the ground the stagnant mois-
* In Douglas MS. Chronicle of England, Thomas Dolfine is recorded among the
grete lordes of Scoteland" who were defeated at Halidon Hill in 1338.
.f Altitude of Garvaldfoot, as ascertained by Telford, 735 feet. The top of Dol-
linton-hill, as lately measured by the writer of this account, is 816 feet above the site
the manse.
LANARK. D
50 LANARKSHIRE.
ture of winter, pulverizes the seed-furrow, and extracts noxious mat-
ter from the air ; but in May and June it retards vegetation and en-
genders the grub worm. At this season, in consequence of copi-
ous evaporations arising from the high comparative temperature of
the German Ocean, (which in winter is three degrees colder, and
in summer five degrees warmer than the Atlantic,) thick easterly
haars occasionally reach us from the coast. When the polar re-
gions become warmer, the westerly winds get the ascendancy; and
in winter they temper the air, sweep before them pestilential va-
pours, and import from the green forests of America gases health-
ier than those arising from the putrid vegetation of our own coun-
try. The prevalence of these winds is indicated by the direction
in which the branches of trees are inclined; and to shelter their na-
kad trunk, nature has given a great-coat of cup, herbaceous, and
thread-like lichen on its windward side, and on the westward skirts
of our plantations.
Climate. — Although most of the arable land lies 700 feet above
the level of the sea, yet, as it is partially sheltered by nature and
art, and as the rays of the sun are reflected from the hills on both
sides of the valley, the temperature of the atmosphere is not so
low as might have been expected. The average of the whole year
may be about 45° of Fahrenheit. In other words, our climate is
more affected by its relative than its real altitude ; and, to a certain
extent, verifies the observation, that a height of 600 feet is equal
to no more than a degree of latitude to the north. As the soil
is now generally dry, and as the air is not too moist, epidemic dis-
tempers are little known. Our artificial water-meadows may still
create some unhealthy exhalations, and induce mildew on grain in
harvest, but the extensive agricultural improvements lately effect-
ed have substituted a purer air " for the putrid effluvia of the large
moss to the eastward ;" doubled the husbandman's return not " in
late" but in seasonable harvests, and rendered " early frost in Au-
gust and September, which oft-times formerly destroyed the crop
in one night" of late years almost unknown. That the climate of
this parish has been meliorated, and that agricultural improvements
have operated to a certain extent in that result, cannot be denied.
That the seasons are milder is also probable, and may be partly
accounted for. But how in the time of the Romans this country
should have been so much warmer than France, as to ripen vines,
when in Gaul they could not be cultivated ; how trees of enor-
mous dimensions grew of old spontaneously where the ingenuity
DOLPIIINTOX. 51
of man can scarcely rear them to the tenth part of the size, or
keep them alive beyond the age of their youth ; how wheat should
have been anciently paid as a tithe to the neighbouring priory of
Lesmahago, from lands where, under the present economy, oats can
scarcely be ripened ; how the mark of the plough, like that of a
field which has been under active culture, is seen much farther up
the hill than it is now carried ; how farms in this vicinity, fitted
out for the ancient wappingshaws three times the number of men
and horses now maintained on them ; and how our very moors
at present support less stock than they did at the date of Charters
still extant, are important facts, never well accounted for ; the in-
vestigation of which might discover the means of still farther reme-
dying the defects and improving the advantages of our northern
climate. *
Hydrography. — It is interesting to mark the local agents by
which nature secures for her whole family an impartial distribu-
tion of moisture, and to see how far the winds carry and mountains
attract water to supply the animal and vegetable creation in every
quarter. Notwithstanding that Dolphinton is distant fifty miles from
the nearest point of the great reservoir of fluidity to Scotland, yet
we have nine-tenths of our rain from the Atlantic Ocean. To se-
cure this indispensable requisite, our hills run in ranges almost pa-
rallel from the western to the eastern shore. Along the interven-
ing valleys, as if through so many funnels, the watery clouds rush
before the wind, dropping their golden showers. For twenty or thirty
miles from the Ayrshire coast, the hills tower in regular succes-
sion each above another, till they reach the western boundaries of
Lanarkshire. The lofty ridge of the Lowthers overtops Cairntable
by nearly 1000 feet ; and therefore not only draws up but breaks the
clouds, and thus renders them lighter for the distant voyage east-
ward. On this side of the Crawford mountains, and in the shel-
tered vale of the Clyde, the atmosphere being much denser, buoys
up the clouds, and. conveys them as if along an aqueduct by Cul-
ter-fell and Tinto, till Walston-mount and Dolphinton-hill get
them in charge. Here, as was often observed in the extreme
drought of summer 1826, when for four months every dark spot
* Polybius describes the climate of Gaul and Germany as a perpetual winter. Di-
odorus Siculus says, that such was the piercing coldness of the air in Gaul, that it
produced neither vines nor olives. Caesar and Tacitus both testify that our climate
w.is milder than that of Gaul. And it is well known that the Romans obtained li-
berty from one of their emperors to plant vineyards and make wine in Britain.
5'2 LANARKSHIRE.
in the sky was anxiously watched in vain, they diverge into three
portions. One goes towards the south and east down the vale of
the Lyne; a second crosses in the opposite direction by Dunsyre and
Midcorset; while the third and greater portion keeps the original
tract by Mendick along the Pentlands. At the summit of Car-
nethy, the highest hill of this range, a similar partition takes
place. One division is carried towards Dalkeith, a second across the
Forth, while the main body moves over Edinburgh by Arthur
Seat. When moisture comes from the east, it is either in a
creeping haar, or in a storm, which, whether it be of rain or snow,
usually lasts for three days. As a certain prognostic of a change
of weather, it deserves to be mentioned, that in the memorable
drought already referred to, the springs of water which had been
long dried up, again gathered strength for several days before a
drop of rain fell. This singular phenomenon is probably refer-
able to the same law of nature which in frost causes rheum to ooze
from stone, earth, and trees, prior to any other sign of thaw. The
average quantity of rain, so far as it has been ascertained by a guage
lately kept at the manse, may be about 27 inches yearly.
With the exception of the moisture from the north side of the
parish, which falls in streamlets into the south Medwin and Clyde,
the waters of Dolphinton are carried in one small rivulet called
Tairth, into the Lyne and Tweed. In the northern extremity of
the parish, above Garvald House, the Medwin is separated into
two portions. The one of these finds its way eastward into the
Tweed, the other by keeping its natural course to the west, runs
into the Clyde. It is said that salmon and salmon fry, but no
pars, have been killed in the Clyde above Lanark. As these could
never ascend the falls, fishers have been puzzled by the fact. But
it may perhaps be accounted for, from the topographical cir-
cumstance here mentioned. The fish may go up the Tweed,
Lyne, and Tairth, into the Medwin by its southern extremity;
and in going down the water, they may, from accident or design,
take the western stream into the Clyde. Whether they are, in
thus returning to the sea, dashed to death over the Corra Linn,
or whether they succeed, by this new north-west passage, in ex-
changing the German for the Atlantic Ocean as their home, can-
not well be ascertained.
Geology and Mineralogy. — The principal mineral in nine-tenths
of the parish is whin or trap-rocks. These form a portion of the ex-
tensive Phonolitic range, which runs from the confines of Ayrshire,
DOLPHIN TON, 53
by Haukshawhill, eastward by Tinto, and the Pentlands. The
whole of these hills, from their saddle-back shape, indicate to the
first glance of the geologist, that they are composed of trap-tuff, or
what is popularly styled rotten whin. It is said to be intermediate
between the two classes of volcanic rocks, the basaltic and trachy-
tic ; and to be composed chiefly of felspar and zeolite. It is not
found here in beds, but has a massive form, so brittle as to fall
into small pieces when dug up. In this parish it is mostly of a
brown colour, and on the top of Dolphinton-hill it has much the
appearance of burnt limestone before it is reduced to powder, by
the application of moisture. Even the most adhesive portion of it, of
which some of the dikes have unfortunately been built, when ex-
posed for a few years to the atmosphere, first cracks, then falls
down like a lime-shell, and is finally reduced into mud. But it
stands the weather better when pointed with lime. In the south
side of the strath, beginning at the brook behind the manse, a stra-
tum of sandstone, at first mixed with brittle trap and quartz, but after-
wards much freer, appears. Its dip is towards the east and north, at
a small angle. In the centre of our valley, to the north of the free-
stone range, and to the south of that of the trap -tuff, an amygdaloidal
ridge traverses the parish from east to west ; and a curious clink-
stone porphyry is found in the quarry near Lockhead. Some ap-
pearances of lead induced the proprietors of Newholm to make
search for it ; but the attempt was ultimately abandoned. A vein
of it probably stretches from Candy Bank eastward through this
and the parish of Linton by Silver Holes. A sort of tilly substance
is found in the south corner of the parish, which forms excellent
oven-stones.
Soil. — It is said that in warm climates the Phonolitic districts
are extremely fertile and well adapted to the culture of the vine ;
and it is affirmed that this fertility arises from these rocks impart-
ing to the soil during their decomposition a great quantity of al-
kali. But in higher latitudes, such alluvial formations are general-
ly meagre. In this parish the soil resting on these rocks is re-
markable neither for its fertility nor sterility. In general, it is a
dry friable earth or sandy loam, in some situations abundantly deep,
but in others rather shallow. Our soil is more fertile towards the
hill than in the plain below. A sort of clay-soil of a rusty iron
colour abounds in the parish, and the subsoil is mostly of this na-
ture. In a few low situations an imperfect moss earth has been
•54 LANARKSHIRE.
formed by stagnant water over the original soil, but in general it is
free from damp.
Botany. — The soil covering rotten whin is said to produce in
this county only ling (Calluna vulgaris,) and similar plants equally
worthless; but in this parish all the common grasses and other rural
plants are found on the arable lands in abundance, and the swamps
have their full proportion of marsh plants. Perhaps our hills, al-
though clothed with grass almost to the top, are deficient in the
variety of alpine vegetation. Genista Anglica, Newholm plantations ;
Ribes alpinum, west from Craft Andrew,- Myriophyllum spicatum,
in a ditch near town foot ; Equisetum hyemale, at Nine Wells, are
the rarest plants hitherto noticed in the parish. Hippuris vulgaris
and Primula farinosa, one of the rarest and prettiest of plants, may
be found in three different habitats on the eastern confines of Dol-
phinton. The few following plants are mentioned as inhabitants
of this district, not because they are rare, but as they afford
a botanical index to the nature of our soil and climate, as connect-
ed with the physical distribution of the vegetable creation. In
the meadows, buckbean, sun-dew, orchis, meadow-sweet, marsh
marigold, cotton-grass, louse-wort; on the hills, tormentil and
foxglove ; in the plantations and fields not under cultivation, saxi-
frage, wood-anemone ; and of the grasses, there are, in most abun-
dance, bent, hair, sedge, foxtail, Timothy, fescue, and cocksfoot ;
by the way side, stone-crop, ragged- Robin, self-heal, and most of
the crow-foot varieties. Several of the fields at Garvaldfoot are,
in spite of many judicious attempts to extirpate them, white in July,
as if covered with snow, from the astonishing abundance of the
ox-eye, Chrysanthemum Leucanthemum.
There are no forests in the parish, but the trees in it show
what may be produced. The heritors are still gradually extend-
ing their plantations. As the parish is sheltered by nature from
every quarter but from the windy west, two or three broad stripes
stretching across the valley would be of essential service.
II. — rCiviL HISTORY.*
Historical Notices. — Till the epoch of the revolution, Dolphin-
ton belonged to the diocese of Glasgow, and deanery (or, after
the year 1585, the presbytery) of Lanark. In 1644, when the
* For the Civil and Ecclesiastical History of the Parish^ see Chart. Paisley, No.
333, 342 — MS. Rental-Book, 11 — Privy Seal, Reg. xxxvii. 49, 51 Tnquis. Spec.
257,260, 393 — Hamilton of Wishaw's MS. Account, 51 And Caledonia, iii. La-
narkshire, passim.
DOLPHINTON. 55
presbytery of Biggar was erected, this parish was included in its
jurisdiction, and became part of the synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale. In the time of the sycophantish Baliol, and also after the
disastrous defeat of David II. at Durham, when the English boast-
ed that their marches were from Soutray to Carlops and Cross-
cryne, Dolphinton was a border parish. And, had the geographi-
cal circumstances of the district been the rule by which parishes
were originally classed, it would have belonged to Peebles-shire.
The names of places, habitations, fosses, and sepulchres still
extant, prove that the parish was anciently inhabited by the native
Britons ; but no traces of the Romans now remain. The marks of
the Romanised Britons have, from their original similarity, been long
confounded with those of the British Gauls ; and even the foot-
steps of the Saxons who, after the subversion of the Celtic domi-
nion occupied this district, are few and indistinct. The dawn of
our history as a separate parish begins with the acquisition of it
by Dolfine. How long his descendants retained the territory has
not been ascertained. But it is certain that the manor and pa-
tronage of the church became an early pertinent of the baronial
territory of Bothwell, and with it underwent the stormy changes
of its brave proprietors. During the reign of Alexander III. Dol-
phinton belonged to Walter Olifard, Justiciary of Lothian, who
died in 1242. It next passed, by marriage probably, to Walter de
Moray, the progenitor of Sir Andrew, who was the faithful part-
ner in command with Wallace, the veteran champion with Bruce
in all his victories, and the Regent of Scotland in the minority of
David II. Edward I. gave it to Aymer de Vallence, Earl of
Pembroke, when guardian for Scotland. In 1370, Johanna, only
child of Sir Thomas Moray, carried it to the grim Archibald
Douglas, Lord of Galloway, who, after the battle of Otterburn,
became Earl of Douglas. In 1440, after the young Douglas was
served at dinner in Edinburgh Castle with the ominous dessert of
a bull's head, James Earl of Avondale became proprietor of our
manor. In 1455, when a single battle at Abercorn might have
raised Douglas to the throne, but when his own indecision, and
the desertion of Hamilton sunk him to an exile, Dolphinton re-
verted to the crown. In 1483, James III. conferred it on Sir
James Ramsay, one of the ablest of his favourites. After the as-
sassination of James at Beaton's mill, Ramsay lost it by forfeiture,
and Dolphinton was, in 1488, given by James IV. to the masterof his
household, Patrick Hepburn, Lord Hailes. In 1492, when the
56 LANARKSHIRE.
treasonable connection of the Earl of Angus with England became
apparent, with a view to remove him from the command of the
border passes and forts, Hepburn gave him Dolphinton and other
centrical lands in exchange for Liddesdale, and the strong castle
of Hermitage ; but the superiority was retained till 1567, when it
was forfeited by the restless James Earl of Bothwell, whose crimes
caused Queen Mary's cruel fate, and his own imprisonment for
ten years in a Norwegian dungeon. In 1581 this property was
granted to Francis Stewart, who, in his turn, was created Earl
Bothwell; but in 1593 it was escheated to the crown by his at-
tainder. Soon after this period the ancestors of the present noble
family of Douglas acquired this manor. Chalmers says, in Caledo-
nia, Vol. iii. that, during the seventeenth and part of the eighteenth
century, the lands of Dolphinton were held in property by the fa-
mily of Brown, but on a stone in front of the burying-aisle for the
predecessors and successors of William Brown of Dolphinton, the
date 1517 is quite legible. In 1755, Kenneth Mackenzie, advo-
cate, succeeded the Browns by marriage ; but Lord Douglas still
retains the patronage, and most of the superiority. Exposed to
the havock of border raids, and Annandale lifters, and thus identi-
fied with the most memorable revolutions of the nation, it is pro-
bable that in early times but a small proportion of our parishion-
ers died in their bed.
Eminent Men. — Major Learmont, an officer of skill and courage,
was an elder of our congregation, and proprietor of Newholm,
which is not situated in Peebles-shire, as stated in Sampson's Rid-
dle, and in the Parliamentary records of the time, but in this pa-
rish. In 1666, when the accidental scuffle in Galloway drove the
Covenanters to arms, Learmont, Colonel Wallace, and Veitch, who
lived at the hills of Dunsyre, went to Ayrshire to collect their
friends. In Echard's History of England, and Law's Memorials, it
is stated that Learmont was a tailor,: — and Wodrow, instead of cor-
recting the averment, merely rebuts the inference, by arguing that
even a tailor may become eminent in the art of war. At the battle
of Pentland-hills, he, as commander of the horsemen, led on the
second attack, in which he carried every thing before him, and al-
most captured the Duke of Hamilton. But when Dalziel brought
up his whole left wing of cavalry, there being three to one against
Learmont, he was borne down. He had his horse shot under him
when drawing off his men. But he started back to a fold dike,
killed one of the four dragoons who pursued him, and, mounting
DOLPHINTON. 57
the dead man's horse, he made good his retreat in spite of the
other three. After this unfortunate affair, the major's life and for-
tunes were both forfeited in absence. The Laird of Wishaw, his
brother-in-law, by paying a composition, obtained the property for
the interest of Learmont's family.* Notwithstanding the share
he had in these civil wars, he survived the revolution, and died at
Newholm in 1693, in the 88th year of his age. Near the door of
our church, under a rustic flat stone, without even the initials of his
name, the mortal remains of the pious soldier now sleep in the
still and peaceful bed where the weary are at rest, and where the
prisoner hears no more the voice of his oppressor, f
Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers commence in 1693,
and have been but indifferently kept. A poem, in Latin, by Drum-
mond of Hawthornden, is the only ancient paper relating to the
parish.
Antiquities. — The remains of a camp are yet in a tolerable state of
preservation, on the top of Keir-hill ; and there are others a few hun-
dred yards above the church, at Chesterlees, and also at Ash-hill,
and on the farm of Newmill. The British words caer and chesters,
both signifying camp, show by whom these stations were occupied. —
A tumulus of stones, to the height of four or five feet, with a regular
ring of larger stones, nearly sixty paces in circumference, on the
height, about three quarters of a mile south-west of the rnanse,
points out either a place of sacrifice under the Druids, or an en-
closure of the summer residence of the native Britons. — A short
way east from this station, an ornament of fine gold, resembling the
* For sixteen years every endeavour was made to secure the major's person, — but
he had a vault dug under ground, which long proved the means of safety- to him. It
entered from a small dark cellar which was used as a pantry, at the foot of the inside
stair of the old mansion-house, descended below the foundation of the building, and
issued at an abrupt bank of the Medwin, forty yards distant from the house, where
a feal dike screened it from view. When the noise of the cavalry reached the major's
attentive ear, the blade of the tongs was applied to a small aperture fitted for the pur-
pose of raising a flat stone, which neatly covered the entrance to the vault ; and be-
fore a door was opened, the Covenanter was safe. Tradition says that the man-ser-
vant was three times led out blindfolded to be shot, because he would not betray the
secret. Learmont having again taken the field at Bothwell Bridge, exposed himself
anew to the fury of the persecutors. By the treachery of a maid-servant, he was at
last apprehended, and ordered for execution ; but the sentence of death was commut-
ed into imprisonment on the Bass.
f As these accounts, handed down for a century and a-half, had become confused,
this detail was submitted to an intelligent lady, who was born at Newholm upwards of
ninety years ago. She states, that the stones of the vault were, at an early period,
taken to build the garden wall ; therefore rfo trace of the retreat was found when Ncw-
liolrn house was last rebuilt.
58 LANARKSHIRE.
snaffle-bit of a horse's bridle, with about forty gold beads, having
the impression of a star, was found.— Stone coffins have been laid
open in various parts of the parish, and there are innumerable ap-
pearances of sepulchral remains; but whether they are those of
Druidical victims sacrificed at their feasts, or of men slain in battle,
cannot well be ascertained.
III.'— POPULATION.
In 1755, the population was 302
In 1791, 200
In 1801, .-- 231
In 1811, 268
In 1821, --- 236
In 1831, • - - 275 viz. 129 malts and 146 females.*
In 1831 the number of births was,
of deaths,
of marriages, - 6
of persons under 15 years of age,
upwards of 70, 6
of unmarried men and widowers upwards of 50 years of age, 6
of unmarried women upwards of 45,
Number of families in the parish, 56
The average number of children in each family, - 5
The number of families chiefly engaged in agriculture, - 35
in trade and manufactures, 6
Comparing the population with the extent of soil, there may be
about 8| acres of arable land, and nearly 3J acres of moor pasture
to every individual.
The people are generally industrious, sober, contented, and in-
telligent. The tenants have every qualification necessary for car-
rying on the most improved courses of husbandry of which the
district is susceptible.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture, or the mechanical arts connected with husbandry,
form our only branches of industry. The number of Scots sta-
tute acres which have been cultivated is about 2000 ; uncultivat-
ed 900, of which 200 or 300 might be reclaimed. There may be
upwards of 300 acres in plantation.
Rent of Land. — Rent may vary from Is. to L. 4 per acre. Ave-
rage of arable land and meadows, L. 1 per acre. Average rent of
* The actual population at the taking of the last Government census was 305, but
the difference between the two numbers was owing to a contingent population being
engaged at the time in making a new road.
DOLPHIN TON. 59
grazing, L. 3 petf cow; L. 1, 10s. for a two-year-old; L. 1 for a
one-year-old ; and 5s. for a full-grown sheep pastured for the year.
The valuation of the parish of Dolphinton is L. 850. Of this
amount Richard Mackenzie, of Dolphinton, Deputy-keeper of his
Majesty's Signet, has L. 640 ; Charles Cuningham of Newholm,
one of the city clerks of Edinburgh, has L. 180 ; and John Allan
Wardrope of Garvaldfoot, has L. 30. In 1755, when Dr Webster's
census was taken, the real rental of the parish was near L. 400
Sterling. In 1792, when the last Statistical Account was drawn up,
it was about L. 600, and it is now about L. 1700.
Rate of Wages. — Labourers' wages, 10s. weekly : Artisans, 2s.
6d. per day.
Breeds of Live Stock. — The sheep, of which there may be 1000,
are, with the exception of a few Cheviots, of the black-faced breed.
The cattle, of which there may be 200 milch cows, and 100 young,
were formerly of an inferior kind, and kept chiefly for breeding and
fattening ; but for some time past the dairy breed of cows have
prevailed. In general, they are partly the Ayrshire breed trans-
ported, and partly the native breed improved, by better feeding
and a skilful crossing.
Husbandry. — In few parishes has the state of husbandry been
more improved within the memory of man than in Dolphinton.
The era of its agricultural revolution may be dated from the ac-
cession of Kenneth Mackenzie. Before his time, both the land
and its occupiers were proverbially in a wretched condition. The
houses were built of mud, and covered with turf. The outfield
land was miserably flayed for the supply of fuel, and otherwise en-
tirely neglected. The crofts were held in runrig, and under the
servitude of sheep-pasturage during the winter. Even after the
rest of the country had adopted the turnip and sown grass hus-
bandry, the tenants here paid their rent mainly by driving lead to
Leith, and purchasing south country meal at Peebles, and carting
it to Carnwath. But Mr Mackenzie had the estate parcelled out
by two intelligent neighbours into farms, so as to render each the
most commodious for profitable occupancy, and given not to the
highest offerer, but to the applicant who might in all respects be
best qualified to stock and farm the lands, according to the stipu-
lations. Dolphinton was in consequence much improved in a few
years ; and the condition of the live-stock, of the implements of
labour, and of the farmers, their families, and servants, have all
made rapid advancement. Nor are these improvements now by
60 LANARKSHIRE.
any means stationary. Enclosing, planting, draining, levelling,
and liming are yet carried on by all the proprietors. Wet lands,
formerly not worth half-a-crown an acre, yield, by being convert-
ed into water-meadows, 200, 300, or 400 stones of valuable hay.
Till of late years the water-courses were narrow and crooked ; but
now they are widened, deepened, and made strait. One cut alone
for the Medwin, from Newholm to Walston Mill, cost near
L. 1000, and afforded the means to the different proprietors inte-
rested of laying dry 600 Scotch statute acres, which it was former-
ly impossible to drain. In a word, every encouragement is given
to improvement by the proprietors : and no proprietors in this dis-
trict are adding more every year to the value of their estates.
Produce. — The gross amount of raw produce yearly raised in the
parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows :
Grain of all kinds, 3500 bolls, at 16s. - : L. 2800 0 9
Potatoes, 2400 bolls, at 6s. 720 0 0
Turnip, 1250 tons, at 4s. . 250 0 0
Clover hay, 20,000 stones, at 6d. - - 500 0 0
Meadow hay, 20,000 stones, at 4d. - 333 0 0
Pasture, rating it at L. 3 per cow, and allowing 2 acres for each cow,
200 cows, 600 0 0
1000 sheep, at 5s. each, 250 0 0
Young cattle raised, — young horses bred, — grass seeds, swine, and other
articles of which no particular account can be had, sold annually, say 500 0 0
* L. 5953 0 0
* At first sight, a landlord might reasonably be startled at receiving only L. 1700 of
rental from nearly L. 6000 worth of produce, but from this amount there falls to be
deducted,
For fee and maintenance of 50 servants, say only at L. ] 5 each, L. 750 0 0
For keep of cattle, young and old, 300, at L. 5 each. 1500 0 0
For seed-corn, 700 bolls, at 16s. - - 560 0 0
For horse's feed, equal to seed, - 560 0 0
For seed-potutoes, at 4 bolls per acre, for 60 acres, 70 0 0
For rent, . _ : . _ 1700 0 0
L.5140 0 0
There thus appears to be a very small sum, indeed, for carrying the surplus pro-
duce of the whole parish to market; keeping up houses, offices, fences, harness, ploughs,
barrows, carts, &c — for maintaining, clothing, and educating children, — for sustain-
ing all losses by death of live-stock, failure of crop, fluctuation of markets, and bank-
ruptcy of dealers, — for interest on capital sunk, and remuneration for work done by
both husband and wife. Of old, when farming was profitable, three rents was the
rule by which land was taken, one to the landlord, one to the farm, and the other to
the servants, smith, wright, saddler, &c. But now that a rise has taken place in fees
of servants and wages of mechanics, little less than four rents will enable a farmer to
" pay day and way."
DOLPHINTON. HI
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Markets — Means of Communication. — In 1693 an act of Par-
liament was obtained for holding a weekly market and two annual
fairs in Dolphinton ; and formerly there were corn, lint, and waulk-
mills, with an inn at both ends of the parish ; but now there is no
markets, fairs, village, post-office, public-house, mill, or manufac-
tory of any kind. There may be two and a-half miles of turnpike-
road, and five miles of parish-roads. The communication between
Glasgow and Berwick might be much facilitated by avoiding the
ridges of Ellsrighill and Corsoncone, and by bringing the road up
the Tairth and down the Medwin.
Ecclesiastical State. — The church is too small for the congrega-
tion, and of a homely exterior, but it is comfortable within. Our
records bear that, prior to 1650, the glebe was far from the church
and " the gate to it foul," and that there was no manse for the mi-
nister, who had flitted five times in the memory of man. A manse
and glebe of eight acres were then designed at the kirk style. Soon
after they were moved to Bankhead, and in 1718 to the present
site. The present manse was built in 1770, and repaired and en-
larged in 1814, and again in 1828, so that it is now one of the
best in the country.
The glebe contains fourteen imperial acres. * In 1275, the whole
spiritual revenues of Dolphinton were estimated at L. 3, 6s. 8d.
Sterling. In 156 J, they were let at L. 4, 3s. 4d. At this, the pe-
riod of the Reformation, the stipend paid to the officiating minister
amounted to L. 1, 3s. Ofd. Sterling. Prior to 1729, it was about
L. 30 ; but it was soon after augmented to L. 47, 4s. 5d. ; and by
the Government it is now raised to L. 150, and L. 8, 6s. 8d. for
communion elements.
The parish seems from 'the earliest period to have been sup-
plied with a church and priesthood, conformable to the existing
establishment. John de Saint Andrews, rector of this church, wit-
nessed two charters,. granted by Allan Bishop of Argyle at Paisley
in September 1253. John Silvester, parson of Dolphinton, La-
narkshire, swore fealty to Edward L at Berwick, in August 1296.
At the reformation from popery, John Cockburn, brother of Sir
James Cockburn of Skirling, was rector, and had been presented
to the living by the well known Earl of Bothwell. In February
1561-2, Cockburn reported that the revenues of the parsonage
* In Bagemont's roll, Dolphinton is taxed L. 4, being a tenth of the estimated
value of its spiritual revenues.
62 LANARKSHIRE.
were then let at L. 50 yearly, from which there were paid L. 13,
8s. 8d. Scots yearly to the minister who served in the church,
and L. 3, 6s. 8d. Scots, to the Archbishop of Glasgow, for pro-
curations and synodials. At the second reformation, viz. from
prelacy, Alexander Sommerville, minister of this parish, acted a
prominent part. At the earliest stage of the struggle, he with
Henderson and others, resisted the orders of their archbishops to
use the liturgy. When charged to obey on pain of imprisonment
and ejection as a rebel, he supplicated the privy-council, and got
the diligence suspended. He was appointed moderator of the La-
nark presbytery in the place of the constant moderator for the
bishops. He was also nominated one of the commissioners to at-
tend the tables at Edinburgh. In 1638, he represented the pres-
bytery at the memorable Glasgow assembly, and opened the busi-
ness by preaching before an immense congregation, all armed with
" whingers." The presbytery of Biggar was, through his influence,
erected in 1644. He died about the year 1649, and was succeed-
ed, on 1st April 1650, by James Donaldson, who was ejected from
his living in 1663 for nonconformity to prelacy. Immediately after
the suspension of Donaldson, William Dogood officiated as an
Episcopalian clergyman. He was succeeded by Alexander Dou-
glas on the 28th September 1675. He went to Douglas, and was
succeeded on the 24th April 1679 by Andrew Hamilton. He was
succeeded by James Crookshanks, who was instituted 17th May
1684, and deposed for profane swearing. Donaldson was reinstated
in 1688. John Sandilands was ordained January 1693; John San-
dilands, his son, October 1711 ; John Bowie, May 1717 ; Thomas
MacCurty, November 1770 ; James Ferguson, August 1773; John
Gordon, March 1781 ; Robert Russell, March 1815; John Alton,
April 1825.
There were formerly four dissenting churches within reach. Of
these two are totally deserted, and the other two had been long
without any stated pastors till of late. The average number of
communicants is about 130, and of attenders on public worship
100. During the last seven years there have been five charitable
collections, amounting in all to about L. 30.
Education. — The school and dwelling-house are very comfort-
able and commodious. The salary is L. 26, and the wages yield
about L. 15. William Brown, about 1658, mortified four acres of
land, now worth L. 8, for behoof of the schoolmaster, and 1000
merks, the interest of which is paid him for educating poor scholars.
DOLPHINTON. (33
He mortified 200 merks, the interest to be paid to the poor.
He also mortified two acres of land to the minister, which has not
been possessed by him since the revolution. Mr Bowie laid out
8000 merks for the lands of Stony'path ; and in 1759 he mortified
them to the minister and kirk-session, to be disposed of as follows :
100 merks to the schoolmaster for educating 20 scholars; 100
merks for educating any lad of a bright genius, to be allowed for
six years, whom failing, to pay apprentice-fees ; 50 merks, either
to be distributed among the poor 6T the parish, or to be laid out
in buying books for the poor scholars ; and 50 merks to the mini-
ster, with all the other profits arising from the lands, to compen-
sate for his trouble as factor.
Poor. — There are 4 paupers, who receive at present L. 17
per annum. The whole yearly expenditure of the kirk-session is
not less than L. 25. In 1755, the average of the ordinary collec-
tions on Sabbath was Is. In 1792 it was Is. 6d. ; and for the last
ten years it has averaged nearly 3s. .10d. The interest at four per
cent, of L. 250, invested on bond, yields L. 10. These sums, to-
gether with 11s. Id. being interest on Brown's mortification, and
what is derived from proclamations and the use of the mortcloth,
may amount to about L. 21.
Library. — In summer 1825, a parochial library was established,
which, by liberal contributions in aid of the funds, now contains a
considerable number of useful and well-read books.
March 1834.
PARISH OF DUNSYRE.
PRESBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE.
THE REV. MR WILLIAM MEEK, MINISTER.*
GEORGE C. RENTON, ASSISTANT.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name and Boundaries. — VARIOUS etymologies have been given
of the name. The most probable is, that it is compounded of Dun
and Seer, the hill of the prophet. The place seems to have been
originally the site' of a Druidical temple.
The summit of the water-level, at the upper end of the parish,
where the stream, by a single turf, might be sent either to the Clyde
or the Tweed, to the Atlantic or the German Ocean, is 735 feet
above high water at the Broomielaw at Glasgow. The parish is
bounded by Dolphinton and Walston on the south-east and south ;
Linton on the east and north; West Calder on the north; and
Carnwath on the west. The extent of surface is 17.25 square
miles, or 11071 imperial acres. Its form is nearly a parallelogram,
having its longest sides lying south and north.
Topographical Appearances. — The range of the Pentlands, which
commences in the vicinity of Edinburgh, may be said to terminate
with Dunsyre hill, after extending to the length of twenty miles.
This hill is precipitous and rugged, composed of the same stone as
Arthur Seat and Salisbury Craigs. It rises about 500 feet above the
water level already stated; 1235 feet above high water at Glasgow.
From it a range of hills verges towards the west, which gradually
slopes into a flat towards Carnwath parish. In the valley betwixt
Dunsyre and Walston ranges, runs the water Medwin, through a
tract of flat ground about a mile in breadth and three in length,
which in that distance falls only about nine feet.
There is a very large cave on the hill Craigengar, on the north-
eastern boundary of this parish, which is said to have been a chief
rendezvous of the gipsies or tinkers in this part of the country.
This Account was drawn up by the Rev. Mr Meek
DUNSYRE. 65
Meteorology. — In summer, Fahrenheit's thermometer averages
from 60° to 70°, and in winter from 40° to 44° ; but in frost the
range is from 22° to 34°. It has sometimes been as low as 16°,
but very seldom. The general range of the barometer is betwixt
29 and 30, so that the average may be stated at 29.5. It has been
as high as 30.6, and as low as 28.5 ; but these are extremes which
it rarely approaches.
The valley of Dunsyre lies almost due east and west, having on
each side a range of hills. The rainbow often exhibits a most
beautiful and imposing appearance in this valley. This generally
happens where the sun is in the west. Three irises are usually
seen: I have beheld three entire, and the fourth imperfectly
formed. The most prevailing winds in the parish are those from
the west. They often sweep the valley with great violence, being
confined by the ranges of the mountains. The soft freestone with
which the houses are generally built becomes damp several hours
and even days previous to a storm of wind and rain ; a certain in-
dication of a change of weather. As a symptom of the dampness
of the climate, the doors in the interior of the houses frequently
stand covered with drops of damp, which run in streams to the
floor. This must arise in a great measure from the extent of flat
marshy ground on the banks of the river, where the water is al-
most in a stagnant state, and renders the river in many places im-
passable. Rheumatism consequently prevails, and there are very
few who escape its excruciating ravages. Nervous disorders, pro-
bably originating in the same cause, are also common.
Hydrography. — There is abundance of fine springs in this pa-
rish. One which is in great esteem issues from a rock of whin-
stone, on the face of Dunsyre-hill, and seems to be affected neither
by summer drought nor winter rains. There is another very
abundant spring on the glebe, called the Curate's welL It con-
sists of two circular holes filled with soft sand, from which the
water issues ; and all around, the ground is composed of the
hardest clay and gravel. At intervals of five or ten minutes, it
bubbles up at three apertures, as if it emitted air. There is ano-
ther remarkable stream at Easton. It flows in great abundance,
and if wood be left for any length of time in its waters, it becomes
encrusted over with a white substance. It appears to issue from a
red freestone rock, — as this seems to lie in a thick bed all around,
three or four feet from the surface ; or perhaps from limestone
which may be below the freestone. There is another fine spring
LANARK. E
66 LANARKSHIRE.
on the farm of Auston Park, consecrated to St Bride, and re-
markable for the abundant flow and purity of its waters. It ap-
pears to rise from a bed of sand, upon approaching a lower seam
of clay and gravel. On the verge of the marsh, there are many
springs deeply charged with iron-ore, and seeming to rise either
"from that mixture or from coal.
The only loch in the parish, the Craneloch, lies in an ele-
vated situation in the moors, — upwards of 300 feet above the water
level. It is about a mile in circumference, surrounded with marshy
grounds and skirted with heath. All around, nothing is presented
to the eye but a bleak inhospitable desert. The water is of a
dark mossy colour, of a pretty high temperature, and very deep.
It abounds with pike and perch, which are allowed to enjoy their
solitary waters unmolested.
Medwin is the chief stream in the parish, and rises in the north-
east corner of it, near the foot of the hill Craigengar. It pursues
a southerly direction for about six miles, when it suddenly turns
to the west. It is here joined by a stream, called West Water,
fully as large as itself, which rises amongst the range of hills in
the northern side of the parish. It continues to run at 'a very
slow rate along the vale of Dunsyre, forming the boundary be-
twixt it and Dolphinton, and then that of Walston. Its greatest
width is about thirty feet, its greatest depth about ten. It runs
shallow and rapid in some places, but in general, from the flat-
ness of the ground, its motion is slow and inert.
Geology and Mineralogy. — Dunsyre-hill is composed partly of
blue whinstone ^ partly of strata of freestone, dipping^ about an
angle from 7° to 10° towards the north. The range which diverges
from Dunsyre-hill contains deep beds of pure limestone, resembling
gray marble; some of them eight and even sixteen feet deep.
These beds are frequently cut across by dikes of clay, gravel, and
loose blocks of the same material. In the channels of some of
the streams which run down from the high ground are beds of what
is denominated Coston limestone. This is apparently a mixture
of sand and lime, which has been subjected to heat, and is extreme-
ly hard.
Some traces of iron-ore are to be found in these last-mentioned
f rocks in close union with the stone ; and copper-ore in some places
has been discernible. Coal has also been considered as lying
under these strata, and attempts have been made to dig it, but
without success. A fair trial has never been made. The line of
3
DUNSYRK. 67
the seams -which run across the island passes through Dunsyre
to the east. It has also been wrought about a'mile to the west,
and runs on to Douglas, and passes through Ayrshire to the Mull
of Cantyre. Calc-spar is discernible in many parts in the parish.
There are various alluvial deposits in this parish. At the foot
of those streamlets which descend from the high grounds are se-
veral acres of fine soil carried upon the flat marshy land below.
This soil is generally a mixture of clay and sand, of a reddish co-
lour, and bears most excellent crops. The river has also, by being
often flooded, deposited on its banks sand to the height, in some
places, of two or three feet above the surrounding bog. This large
flat is mostly composed of moss,- — in some places eleven and even
sixteen feet in depth. In digging down the one-half of that depth, ,
it is found to become soft, and the water and sludge rise to the
mouth of the pit. It lies in a kind of basin, whose bottom is adhe-
sive clay. Branches and trunks of trees are everywhere deposited in
it, and these are generally composed of hazel, alder, and willow.
Soil. — The soil in this, parish, especially in the eastern part, may
be said to be generally sandy, and the grounds appear to have been,
at one time, traversed by currents of water. Towards the west,
the subsoil seems to consist of the debris of various hills ; among
which are found stones of all kinds mixed with sand and clay, and
occasionally transparent pebbles. These stones appear to have
been rounded by attrition. The light sandy grounds in a few years
are covered with heath, if not kept clear by the plough ; and the
other soils become foul with rushes, paddock-pipes, and the coarse
bog grasses. In many places the Yorkshire fog, as it is called,
covers all the surface, particularly if inclined to moss.
Zoology. — On this head, it may be only mentioned, that the
gannet, or sea-gull, frequents this parish, especially when a storm
of wind and rain is threatened. This appears rather singular in a
parish situate nearly thirty miles from the sea coast. The lap-
wing also migrates in flocks to this point during the summer sea-
son, and has been known to continue during winter. The eagle is
sometimes seen on the hills to the north of Dunsyre, particularly
on Craigengar. There is plenty of grouse in these moors, and a
few black game. The gray plover is everywhere to be seen. Wild
ducks are numerous in the marshes ; and during a storm the parish
is often visited with flocks of wild geese, to the amount of fifty or
sixty in a covey.
Medwin is a fine trouting stream. The trout are for the most
68 LANARKSHIRE.
part red, of a considerable size, and reckoned superior in quality
to those of either Clyde or Tweed. Pike of a very large size is
often found in the deep parts of the river.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Historical Notices. — Many distinguished characters have befen
proprietors in this parish. So early as the year 1147, William de
Sommerville, the third of that noble family, afterwards Lord Som-
merville, married Margaret, daughter of Gualter, who is designed
of Newbigging, and Lord of Dunsyre. Sir Patrick Hepburn of
Hales was, during his father's life, designed of Dunsyre, in the
year 1450, who, on account of his great merit and fortune, was
by King James III. created a Baron or Lord of Parliament, ante
•annum 1456. Adam Second Lord Hales succeeded his father,
during whose life he had been designed Adam Hepburn of Dun-
syre. His successors were created Earls of Bothwell on the 5th of
October 1488, and the last of the family was created Duke of
Orkney by Queen Mary, whom he had afterwards the honour to
marry.
Archibald the Sixth Earl of Angus exchanged his castle and
lands of hermitage in Liddesdale, with Hepburn Earl of Bothwell,
for the castle of Bothwell in Clydesdale ; and hence this property
fell into the hands of the Douglases. It has since belonged to va-
rious individuals.
Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart of Lee and Carnwath, Ba-
ronet, is now proprietor of almost the whole parish. The valua-
tion of the parish, as fixed in 1733, amounted to L. 1450 Scots
money; of which Sir Norman Lockhart has L. 1383, 13s. 4d., and
the remainder L. 66, 6s. 8d. belongs to the Rev. Mr Aiton, which
was bequeathed by the late Rev. Mr Bowie, minister of Dolphin-
ton, to the minister serving the cure of that parish.
Parochial Registers. — The earliest registers of the parish are
dated June 7, 1690. By minute of that date, Mr Robert Skene,
curate of the parish, is required to give up the kirk-box and key.
They have been regularly kept till the year 1712. An interval
then occurs till 1760 ; after which they are regularly kept to the
present day.
Antiquities. — The castles generally denominated fortalices,
which were stationed in the valley of Dunsyre, establish the fact
that the parish was well inhabited in early times. At Easter Sax-
on there were no fewer of these than five. At Todholes, in the west
DUNSYRE. 69
end of the parish, stood one of considerable strength, with a fosse
around it. There were castles of the same construction at Westhall
Hills, Auston; and about 300 yards from the church stood the castle
of Dunsyre. It had a vault on the ground story, with two apart-
ments above, which were approached by a circular staircase at one
of the corners. About eighty or a hundred years ago, the Baron
baillie held his courts in this tower, and in the vault were kept the
.thumbkins and the boots for torture. On the death of the last
baron, who is represented to have exercised a tyrannical sway, the
people of the village met, and destroyed these odious engines.
Many Roman reliques have been found here. The line by
which the army of Agricola reached the camp at Cleghorn lies
through the parish of Dunsyre, and the route can be traced up the
county of Tweeddale. The entrance to the glen or valley where
Dunsyre is situate is called the Garvald or Garrel ; it forms the
most natural and easy communication betwixt the east and west of
the plain. Through this rugged pass lies the Roman line, mark-
ed out by a dike of earth. Several cairns occur here and in the
neighbourhood ; in some of which urns have been found. One of
these is about 6 inches in diameter. It is composed of burnt
clay, and rudely carved over. Its under part is narrow, of the
shape of the human heart, and projects from the depth of 7 inches
about 2^ towards the mouth.*
Among the many places to which the champions of the Refor-
mation fled for safety, Dunsyre was one of the chief. On the con-
fines of this parish, where it borders with Lothian and Tweeddale,
is a deep ravine, in the centre of which there is a large collection
of stones. This deep rugged spot bears the name of Roger's Kirke,
which, in all probability, it received from one of the covenanting
ministers.
Covenanters. — One of the most celebrated preachers, Mr Wil-
liam Veitch, was tenant in Westhills, which he was forced to aban-
don after the battle of Pentlands in 1667. He was the person de-
puted by the council of the covenanting army, while they were lying
at Colinton, to go to Edinburgh to learn some intelligence of im-
portance. He accomplished this mission with great difficulty, but
without securing the slightest advantage. On returning, he was ac-
cidentally surrounded by a troop of the enemy's cavalry, from which
he escaped with difficulty, and fled to Dunsyre. Mr Veitch after-
* Several other ca'rns and urns are noticed in the original MS.
70 LANARKSHIRE.
wards escaped to England; and after the Revolution became minis-
ter of Peebles, and thereafter of Dumfries. *
In 1669, Mr Donald Cargill, one of the most distinguished friends
of freedom, whose persecutions were as remarkable as his conduct
was courageous, preached his last sermon on Dunsyre common. He
went, though contrary to the ad vice of his friends, to Andrew Fisher's,
at Covington Mill, where next day he was seized by Irvine of Bon-
shaw. He was treated in the most ignominious manner; his back
was turned to the horse's head, his feet tied below its belly; and in
this manner he was led through the streets of Lanark. He was
afterwards hanged in the Grassmarket of Edinburgh, his head
struck off and fixed on the Netherbow port.
There are several places in the moor which still go by the name
of preaching holes, and which formed the retreat of the persecuted
preachers. Into these they generally retired, while the congrega-
tions dispersed at the approach of the persecutors.
III. — POPULATION.
By the return made to Dr Webster about 1750, the population was 359
In 1783, - - ... 400
1791, 360 ,
1815, according to census taken by minister, -^ - 312
1821, - - - I • 290
1831, 335
The decrease has been owing to the union of small farms, and
the dislike which the farmers entertain towards what are generally
denominated cottars.
1. Number of families in the parish, - 57
of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - 26
chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 19
2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 13
of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, - 13
3. The average number of births yearly, for the last 7 years, . . 6
of deaths, ----- 3
of marriages, _ . v . 25
4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age. ' *// - 1057
upwards of 70, - .>" f „ 7
No nobility, nor families of independent fortune reside in the pa-
rish. There are only two proprietors, and both their properties are
worth upwards of L. 50 annually.
See notice of Major Learmonth in Account of Dophinton.
DUNSYRE. 71
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture and Rural Economy.
There are in the parish, cultivated and occasionally in tillage, upwards of 3000 acres.
Constantly in pasture, many of which are waste and of very little value, 8000
Capable of being improved by a judicious application of capital, 2000
Under wood, - 30
Undivided common, 0
All the wood has been planted ; and, from being constantly cut
without any new plantation, will very soon cease to exist altoge-
ther. The trees are Scotch fir and larch.
Rate of Wages. — Farm men-servants receive for summer and
winter, being generally hired by the year, from L. 8 to L. 12, be-
sides bed and board : females during the summer, L. 3, and dur-
ing the winter from L. 2 to L. 2, 10s., bed and board. If the men
are married, they generally receive about L. 10 wages, and a free
house, with a certain quantity of fuel driven. Masons' wages are
about 2s. 6d. a-day, and a carpenter's nearly the same.
Breeds of Live Stock. — Considerable attention has been paid
to the breeds of sheep and cattle. The Cheviot are bought in
some instances when hogs, and afterwards fattened on the turnips.
The black-faced are the staple breed, of which there are no fewer
than 150 scores in the parish. They are also reared for fatten-
ing on turnips. The Ayrshire breed of cattle is generally culti-
vated, and a cross-breed of heavier stock is annually reared for
draughting and feeding on turnips.
Particular attention has' been paid to the dairy. The number
of milch cows kept by the farmer is generally betwixt 20 and 30.
The milk-houses are fitted up in the neatest manner, so as to pre-
serve the milk fresh and clean. The usual method is to make
butter, which is salted and sold about Martinmas. Of the skim-
med milk, cheeses are made, which are sold about the same time.
Dunlop cheeses are also made, and rival any from Ayrshire.
Husbandry. — The fourth rotation is that which is generally
practised, as the soil will scarcely admit of a heavier cropping.
Turnips are reared in great abundance, and few parishes can boast
of so fine crops.
The Medwin»has lately been straightened, and will thus afford a
facility for draining the surrounding bog. Draining has been car-
ried on to a considerable extent; and irrigation was first practised
in this parish in the upper ward of Clydesdale, and has been im-
proving constantly for the last twenty years. The late William
72 LANARKSHIRE.
Brown, tenant at Mains, was the first to introduce the improved
system of husbandry into this parish.
Leases are- granted for nineteen years. The farm-buildings are
in general commodious, and in good repair. But the enclosures
are few, and in a very indifferent condition.
Produce. The average gross amount of raw produce raised in
the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows :
Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the domestic
animals, - - L. 3864 0 0
Of potatoes, - 270 0 0
Of turnips, - 1940 0 0
Of hay, whether meadow or cultivated, - - 750 0 0
Of land in pasture, rating at L. 3 per cow or full-grown ox grazed,
or that may be grazed for the season, 078 0 0
Of land in pasture, rating at 5s. per ewe or full-grown sheep pastured,
or that may be pastured for the year, - 1250 0 0
Total yearly value of raw produce, L. 9052 0 o
V.— PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Market-Towns, fyc. — The nearest market -towns are Carnwath
and Biggar : the former, about 6 miles from the village of Dun-
syre, where there is a weekly market held on Friday, which may
be said to be the chief resort for farm produce from this parish.
Biggar is about 8 miles distant, and is attended from this parish
principally for seed-corn in spring on Thursday, every week, and
its fairs are frequented for horses, cattle, and lambs. Linton,
however, in Tweeddale, which is about 6 miles distant, constitutes
the principal sheep and wool market.
Village. — Dunsyre village consists of a population of about 50
souls, chiefly composed of tradesmen, for the accommodation of
the parish — smiths, masons, wrights, tailors, shoemakers, &c.
There was once a considerable village at Weston. But now the
remaining cottages are chiefly inhabited by the servants and fami-
lies belonging to the farms of that name.
Means of Communication. — Dunsyre keeps up a weekly commu-
nication with Edinburgh by means of carriers ; and the parish is
traversed three or four times a-week by carriers from the vicinity
of the metropolis. They purchase butter, eggs, and fowls, which
are generally sold at the Saturday market.
There is no post-office in the parish. Carnwath is the chief
post-town for Dunsyre. A runner from the post-office at Linton
to Roberton, in Dolphinton, might be had twice a-week for L. 2
DUNSYRE. 73
yearly. This arrangement would serve three parishes, and pay back
more than the outlay.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church stands on a tumulus
or mound, on the northern banks of the Medwin, and is quite con-
veniently situate for the inhabitants. At what time the church
was built is uncertain. About 1750 it was thatched with heath ;
as it then appears to have received for the first time a slate roof.
At the Reformation, it had been built of the barn construction
with the materials of an old Gothic building. In 1820 it under-
went a complete repair; and a Gothic tower was erected at the
east end, and on each side is a lofty Gothic window. It is seated
to accommodate betwixt 240 and 250 sitters. The seats are all free.
The heritors divided them amongst their tenants in proportion to
their rentals ; and allotted a certain proportion to the village.
The manse was built in 1756, and was pretty well repaired in
1815. It has now, however, become ruinous, and requires either
to be rebuilt, or very thoroughly repaired. There is also a defi-
ciency in the accommodation of office-houses.
The glebe consists of fifteen English acres, exclusive of the
site of the manse, and offices, and garden. It was subdivided and
enclosed with stone dikes, and hedges, and rows of trees, by the
present incumbent, and, being well drained, may be worth L. 30
or L. 40 annually.
The church or living was gifted to the Abbot and Convent of
Kelso, betwixt the years 1180 and 1199, by Helias brother to
Jocelyne, bishop of Glasgow, and held by that Convent from the
twelfth century till the Reformation. This parish was a rectory
of the monks of Kelso ; but the revenue they drew from thence
till the year 1316, was not above L. 5, 6s. 8d. annually. At the
Reformation the revenue increased to L. 20. In 1791-2 the sti-
pend was L. 100, exclusive of manse and glebe, which last was es-
timated at L. 10 a-year. In 181 1, when the Legislature augmented
the livings below L. 150 to that sum, the living of Dunsyre on an
average of the seven previous years was worth L. 114, 17s. HT92d.
inclusive of L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. As the seven
years average was taken when grain was very high, the deficiency
in succeeding years became great ; and another act of Parliament
was passed in 1824 to remedy the evil. Still, however, although a
small addition was then made, it seldom happens, from the reduced
price of grain, that the stipend rises to L. 150. It may be worth
while to mention, that the minister was titular of the teinds, and still
74 LANARKSHIRE.
continues to receive annually 15s. 2£d. as feu-duty from the, lands
called Kirklands.
There are no chapels or dissenting-houses in the parish ; and
hence the parish church is generally well attended. The average
number of communicants is about 170.
The yearly average of collections for the last seven years, in-
cluding fines, mortcloth, interest, &c., is L. 19, 2s. 6|d.
Education. — There is only one parochial school in the parish.
Latin is taught. The salary is about L. 28. The schoolmaster
has the legal accommodation, though it is supposed there is defi-
ciency of garden or glebe. There are no individuals in this parish
who have not been taught from their infancy to read and write.
Friendly Society. — A friendly society was instituted about the
year 1799 : it continues, and has for its object to support the sick
or disabled members, and to assist in the funeral expenses of hus-
band or wife.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons re-
ceiving parochial assistance for the last seven years is 5f , and the
sum annually allotted to each is about L. 6. The funds arising
from collections, fines, mortcloths, proclamations, and interest of
money lent out to the road trustees at five per cent., in general
cover the expenditure ; but when found insufficient, recourse has
been had to voluntary contributions. There was at one time an
extreme aversion to receive parochial aid, and there are still many
in necessitous circumstances who would feel degraded by accept-
ing it. But the spirit of independence is gradually wearing away,
and many consider it not only as not degrading, but talk of it as a
right given to them by the law of the land.
Alehouses. — There are no houses of this description in the pa-
rish.
Fuel. — The fuel generally, used is coal, which is driven from a
distance of twelve miles, and costs about 12s. a ton. A great deal
of peat is dug. In the moors or in the marsh on the banks of
the Medwin, it is to be had in great abundance, but coal is consi-
dered more profitable.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
When the former Statistical Account was published, the modern
system of husbandry was little known, and as little practised. Nay,
those who had the genius or the hardihood to deviate from the old
beaten path were branded as visionaries. This, however, is not
DUTsSYRE. 75
the case in the present day : the farmers are active, industrious,
and prosperous.
The great want in this parish is shelter, — the farms, for the
most part, being quite exposed to the sweep of the east and west
winds. There is also a great deficiency in draining. About two
years ago the Medwin, which ran in innumerable windings, was
straightened for the distance of three miles. This work, however,
has not been sufficiently done, as the water, at the under part of
the cut overflows its banks, in consequence of a mill-dam, which
keeps back the water. This should be entirely removed to render
the straightening effectual. Were the flat through which the cut
runs sufficiently drained by ditches into the river, there would be
recovered not less than 400 acres of the best land in the parish, —
all of a deep rich water-borne soil, composed of decayed vegetables,
and likely to be worth more than one-half of all the land under
cultivation.
At present the principal road runs from the one end of the pa-
rish to the other nearly parallel with the river, at the distance of t
half a mile, and at the east end joins the public road from Edin-
burgh to Biggar by a very circuitous route. Whereas, were it to
be continued straight east through the Garvald, to join the same
road near Linton, it would open up a most advantageous commu-
nication.
Revised April 1&34.
PARISH OF CARNWATH.
PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. JAMES WALKER, MINISTER. V
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name, Extent, Sfc. — THE parish of Carnwath is situated in the
upper ward of Lanarkshire, 27 miles S. E. of Glasgow, and 25
miles S. W. of Edinburgh. In some of the old writings belong-
ing to the family of Lockhart of Lee, who is now the proprietor
of the estate, I find it frequently written Cairnwath. The name
is descriptive of the situation of the place, as there is a cairn im-v
mediately west of the house and village of Carnwath,^ which will
be noticed more particularly afterwards,) and near the bottom of
that cairn there is a wath, which, as my predecessor remarks, means
in the Saxon language a, ford. Such is probably the derivation of
the name. The oldest people in the place report, that the wath
or ford at the cairn was almost the only pass across the burn of
Carnwath at all practicable before it was confined by a cut being
made within a narrower space, and bridges thrown over it. The
parish is very extensive, being 12 miles from south to north, and 8
from east to west. Its form is pretty regular, (an oblong square,)
and it is bounded on the west by the parish of Carstairs ; on the
east by Dunsyre ; on the south by the parishes of Libberton and
Pettinain ; and on the north by West Calder.
Topographical Appearances. — There are no mountains, or even
hills, which deserve the name, though there are two ranges of high
ground which run through the parish, but which, even at their
highest point, do not exceed 1200 feet above the level of the sea.
The low and flat lands consist either of flow-moss, of which we
have still a large extent, or holm, which stretches along the banks
of Clyde and Medwin, marking the south boundary of the parish.
The climate is such as is experienced throughout Scotland at the
same altitude above the level of the sea, — about 600 feet being
the lowest elevation of any part of the parish ; and though there
are still cases of rheumatism to be found among the inhabitants,
they are certainly fewer than they were, owing, no doubt, to the
drainings which have been executed to a great extent in every
CARNWATH. 77
part of the parish within the last forty years. * No distemper,
indeed, seems to prevail more than another, or can be attributed
to the influence of the climate.
Hydrography. — There are several mineral springs in different
parts of the parish, but I am not aware that any of them have
been analyzed, or have attracted particular notice. — The only loch
worthy of notice is what is called the White Loch, immediately
west of the village of Carnwath. It covers about 30 acres, is of
considerable depth in some places, and finely wooded on the south
and west sides. It is more than a mile in circumference. A small
kind of perch is the only fish found in it, and it is chiefly remark-
able as the great rendezvous of the curlers of the district around.
Besides eight or nine rinks, as they are called, each rink consist-
ing of eight individuals, whom the parish supplies, and who are
to be seen contending with each other in generous rivalship, the
curlers from other parishes also frequently meet here to decide
the contest, and sometimes upwards of 200 combatants have been
arrayed against each other on the slippery bosom of the loch, f
Mineralogy. — On the north side of Dippool, coal, iron, and lime-
stone are all to be found. The ridge of ground immediately north
of its banks is chiefly filled with limestone, which is wrought exten-
sively, and is the great depot from which this useful manure is sup-
plied to the surrounding country for many miles. It rises gradually
from the moss on the north bank of the above rivulet, and which
is generally improved to the extent of half a mile ; and the whole
of the south acclivity from Westshiel to Eastsidewood has been par-
tially wrought. The metals on this side are disposed as under :
After a tirring, as it is called, of from 20 to 27 feet, comes the lime-
stone, generally about 6 feet in thickness, — and under it, again, is
found a seam of coal of 18J inches, which is generally sufficient for
burning the limestone. All these dip towards the north or top of
the ridge, while on the opposite, or north side, from the top of the
• I have observed more cases of cancer in the lip than of any other disease ; but
these are not to be ascribed to any thing peculiar to the climate, but to the smoking
of tobacco, and, especially, to the manner which I have seen that done. I once went
into a house where a man was in the last stage of a disease of the kind. He was
still able to take his pipe, and, to my horror, I saw him hand it, when done, to one of
his friends, who again handed it to another ; and both seemed to enjoy it as much
as if it had never come in contact with such a disease.
f In the end of the year 1832, a curling club was founded in the parish, un-
der the auspices of Alexander Macdonald Lockhart, Esq. It consists of sixteen
members, all resident, or born within the barony of Carnwath. The club can, by
means of its members, have two games going on at once, each member playing two
stones. This is not the common way of playing the game in this country, where
each player appears upon the ice with only one stone. Sixteen people are thus
brought into close contact ; but the noise and confusion thus created are far from
adding to the beauty or interest of the game.
78 LANARKSHIRE.
ridge to Cleugh-burn, where the limestone shows itself, in great
abundance, the dip is to the south. Troubles, as they are here
called, frequently show themselves in the limestone, and add greatly
to the expense of working it. These troubles are from 4 to 6 feet in
thickness, imbedded in the limestone, and they frequently cut it off
altogether, but make no change in the coal or sandstone : and when
cut out, which is done with great labour and expense, the lime-
stone is found of equal quality with what was formerly obtained.
They are formed of a substance here called Sklut, which, though
unable to withstand the influence of the sun or the action of the
atmosphere, which soon crumbles it to pieces, resists the opera-
tion of fire : hence they are generally employed for building the
sides of the kilns in which the lime is burned. To give some idea
of the disadvantage arising from these troubles, it may be mention-
ed, that the range of working at one of the most extensive lime-
works on the south side of the ridge is about forty yards, and in
that space one or more of these troubles are always met with.
On the north side of the ridge above-mentioned, down to Cleugh-
burn, presenting an extent of ground greater than the south side,
the limestone is equally abundant, but, being unaccompanied with
coal, has probably from this cause never been wrought to the same
extent.
On crossing Cleugh-burn, an immense field of coal presents itself,
and from thence to the northern boundary of the parish, it is be-
lieved that an inexhaustible store of this, as well as other minerals,
is laid up. The coal has been wrought for time immemorial, but
only partially, till about fifty years ago, when two brothers of the
name of Wilson, Swedish merchants in London, commenced an
iron foundry near a place called Forkens, and in a few years Wil-
son town rose into existence.
Wilsontown Iron-works. — In the year 1779 the Messrs Wilsons
commenced their preparatory operations for the iron-works, and,
in 1780—81, began the manufacture of pig iron. The difficulties
they had to contend with were numerous and various. The coal,
where previously wrought, was found not well adapted to their pur-
pose ; and though they had a sufficient supply at a greater depth
of the very best kind, yet, from the quantity of water in the pits
opened, and which (from the direction of the strata and the nature
of the surface rendering it impossible to obtain a level) could only
be cleared away by means of horses, they were forced to give up the
attempt, and to return to the coal where they first started. With
the supply which this field afforded, the work went on with varied
CAHNWATH. 79
success, till in 1787 another furnace was built, and another blowing-
engine of greater power was set agoing. In 1788-89, a steam-
engine was erected to draw off the water from the minerals, and a
large field of coal, extending both ways along the bearing of the
strata, was thus obtained. The work was now carried on with spirit,
the weekly produce of the furnace increased, and, occasionally,
a second furnace was set to work not only pig-iron, but great
quantities of ballast for ships, and of shot, from 4 to 18 pounders
inclusive. Pipes of various kinds, &c. were made. In 1790-91,
an extensive forge for the manufacture of blooms was erected; but
this had not been at work above one year, when, unhappily, a mis-
understanding arose among the partners, and a law-suit took place,
the issue of which was a dissolution of the copartnery ; and, under
the authority of the Court of Session, there was a sale of the works,
lands, &c. which belonged to the Company. John Wilson Senior, of
London, one of the former partners, became the purchaser. During
the dispute the forge had been stopt, and only one furnace was
kept going; but after the sale in 1798, the forge was again put to
work with an addition of two hammers, and the two furnaces again
brought into full operation. In a little time, too, a rolling-mill, on
a most extensive scale, and fitted to roll and slit all kinds and sizes
of iron, was built, and set to work ; a powerful blowing engine was
erected ; and the weekly produce of the furnaces, which before this
seldom exceeded twenty, was now increased to forty tons. A lease
of Climpy coal was also at this time obtained, and a village built
there, for the accommodation of the workmen. A chapel, con-
nected with the Relief, was built in the middle of that village, and
a minister ordained by the Relief presbytery ; in a word, in every
department prosperity seemed to smile. The coal and iron-stone
mines, the furnaces, the forges, the rolling-mill, the shops of smiths,
carpenters, engineers, and mill-wrights, all were crowded with
workmen. At the census taken in 1807, there were depending on
the work for their support upwards of 2000 souls, and the monthly
payments to the various work-people were not less than L.3000.
This seeming prosperity, however, soon vanished ; for in 1807-8
the company became embarrassed, a severe depression in the iron
trade increased this embarrassment, and made it fatal ; and, in 1812,
the works were stopt, and the whole population turned adrift upon
the world. From that period, till 1821, they continued unoccu-
pied, the machinery, of course, rusting, and the houses falling into
ruins, when they were purchased by Mr Dixon of the Calder iron-
works, whose son, Mr William Dixon, is now the proprietor.
80 LANARKSHIRE.
The failure of the Wilsontown iron-works gave a dreadful blow
to the prosperity of that part of the country in which they are si-
tuated, and was felt not only in this parish, but in all the parishes
around. It closed a market to the proprietors and tenants for al-
most every kind of produce they had for sale, and which they found
ever ready and convenient. Many of the labourers, too, had all
their hard-earned savings embarked with the company, and were
in a moment reduced to a state of beggary ; and of the old and
infirm, many who hoped to spend their old age in comfort and in-
dependence, were added to the paupers' roll. Even to this day,
indeed, the parish feels, in this way, the effect produced by the
failure ; for though many of those who were thus ruined in their
circumstances are dead, yet not a few still remain to swell our as-
sessment. In a word, it may fairly be questioned whether the erec-
tion of Wilsontown iron-works was advantageous to the parish or
the contrary. They no doubt gave an impetus, while they flourish-
ed, to improvements, which probably otherwise would never have
been made; but there can be as little doubt that they have brought
burdens on the heritors which they would never have been called
to bear. As happens in most cases, where such a population has been
collected, the morals of the people have also suffered severely, and the
religious character of the former inhabitants has been exchanged
for indifference and lukewarmness^ But of this hereafter.
The advantageous situation of Wilsontown as an iron work will
best appear from a sketch of the minerals connected with, and be-
longing to it.
The Wilsontown coal-field lies in the form of an elliptical bason
or trough, bearing east of north to west of south about three miles.
The dip is at right angles to the bearing, and is in general about
one to se/en or eight.
The main coal, called the " four feet coal," is the lowest ; above
it are several thinner seams, — one of which, resting on a stratum
of fire-clay, is about two feet in thickness, and has been wrought
occasionally, both for. the use of the works and for sale. The ac-
companying strata are numerous and various, — sandstone or free-
stone of different texture and hardness, fakes of various colours,
blaes, (bituminous shale and slate-clay,) fire-day, small ribs of
ironstone, &c. Above these, and about thirty fathoms above
the main coal, there is a stratum of limestone of excellent qua-
lity. It is five feet thick, and from it has been taken the whole
supply for the use of the furnaces, and all the numerous and va-
rious erections since the commencement of the works. About
CARNWATH. 81
fourteen fathoms below the majn coal are strata of blaes, va-
rying in thickness from fourteen to twenty feet, while on the top
of these lies the great freestone rock, from which have been taken
all the stones for furnace hearths, and for building both works and
village. A few feet under this rock are several strata of ironstone
about three or four inches thick, which, when stript of the blaes,
are to be seen lying in the form of parallelograms and squares, "and
which, though in close contact with each other, do not adhere ;
and, though of different sizes, present the appearance of a regular
laid pavement. In the lowest part of the blaes are several strata of
ironstone, all wrought together in one mine. The uppermost of
these, seldom exceeding three inches thick, is called the " spotted
stone" from its being mixed with small shells of a yellowish colour.
Next is the ball stone, which do not always lie in close or even
continued succession, are sometimes large and sometimes small,
and have sometimes gone out altogether, but are generally, in this
case, succeeded by a close stratum of spotted stone. Two feet
below this, there is a thin stratum, called from its colour the black
band ; and two feet, or little more, below it, lie the great bands.
This is the strongest of them all, being six or seven inches thick,
lying also in the form of pavement. In some of the hitches or
leaps of this stratum pieces of lead have been found. Ten or
twelve fathoms below this, is a stratum of excellent light or candle
coaly which, in the old company's time, was wrought to some ex-
tent. It varies in thickness, being on the north-east border of the
field, near the boundary of the county, not above sixteen inches,
while on the south-east, at Tashy-burn, it is two feet thick.
The Climpy field of coal lies on the west side of the Wilson-
town, — the crop of the one nearly approaching the other. It is
undoubtedly of great extent. Its general bearing is the same as
Wilsontown, — stretching to the south-west into the lands of Bir-
nie-hall and Abbey, in the parish of Carstairs ; and to the north
into the lands of Muldren, in the parish of West Calder. There
can be little doubt but the Wilsontown, Cleugh, and Climpy fields
of minerals are only successive continuations of the same strata ;
and it may be worthy of remark here, that the same strata make
their appearance a great way to the, east. On the farm of Mosshat-
burn-foot, they are to be seen cropping out, apparently stretching
away towards the lands of Wester and Easter Mosshat. At Moss-
hat-burn-foot, indeed, the Wilsontown company wrought a consi-
derable quantity of the same kind of stone, with the spotted stone
at Wilsontown ; and it is not unlikely that the limestone formerly
LANARK. " F
82 LANARKSHIRE.
wrought at Easter Mosshat and Urates (or Wolfrod) may be the
same with the Climpy and Wilsontown, though perhaps differently
modified.
There are no dikes, properly so called, in the Wilsontown coal
field, but there are several slips or hitches, as they are here called,
of some consequence. The second, from the south-west, jnay be
distinctly seen in the Burn, a few yards above the bridge at Cleugh.
It throws the strata a long way down to the north-east ; and a sec-
tion of the strata between the main coal and the Wilsontown spot-
ted stone is at the above place finely displayed. At a considerable
distance farther east, another slip or hitch up shows itself to from
eighteen to twenty feet, and here may be seen an instance how
slips sometimes derange the strata; for while on the south-west,
or low side, the distance betwixt the main coal and the craw coal,
next above, is in general about fourteen feet ; on the north-east,
or upper side, the space is only about two feet. Still farther east,
a fourth slip throws the strata again up, perhaps even more than
the last ; and here another instance of derangement presents itself,
and that in the stratum of coal itself. Throughout the field to the
south-west of this, there is a thin stratum of black stone in the
coal, about eight or ten inches above the pavement, on the top of
what is called the ground coal. This ground coal differs in appear-
ance from the coal above it, called the wall coal. It is of a clear
shining black, of a loose texture, and breaks into small cubes; where-
as the wall coal is of a much firmer texture, of a splinty nature,
and much of it of a rough fracture. Besides these, there is be-
twixt the two slips a very little above the black stone, a stratum
of very good candle coal, from four to five inches thick ; but after
passing the last mentioned slip, none of these are to be seen, while
a stratum of blackish stone, of a foot to eighteen inches, shows it-
self, dividing the bed or seam of coal into strata of nearly equal thick-
ness, and without increase or diminution of quantity upon the whole.
Thejfissures or veins are not what practical men call direct, but
sometimes incline to the rigKt, and sometimes to the left. The
second and third formerly mentioned incline to each other, and
will at last meet, unless, indeed, they are partially deranged, or cut
off altogether by the twisting and bending of the strata at the hol-
low of the trough, which, indeed, there is reason to suspect, as
they have not been seen in the Climpy field.
From what has thus been stated respecting the minerals laid up
at Wilsontown and in the neighbourhood, it will readily be seen
how advantageous the situation is for an iron-work. Every thing
CARNWATH. 83
required is here brought together ; and in such quantities too, that
I find it reported by a person employed in 1797 to examine the
state of the minerals, that, " from what he had explored, 40,000
tons of iron might be made annually for the space of ninety years !
that the supply of ironstone is inexhaustible," &c. *
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Antiquities. — There are few antiquities in the parish worthy of
notice. The cairn or moat at the west end of the village, to which
reference has been already made, is 'evidently artificial, but at
what time it was raised, or for what purpose, I have been unable
to ascertain. It is of a form somewhat elliptical, the diameter
from east to west being longer than from north to south. There
is a hollow on the top, where, it is said, there was the entrance to a
rude stair that reached to the bottom. This has suggested the idea,
that the moat was intended as a burying-place, though tradition
speaks of it as a place of concealment for the plate, &c. belong-
ing to the family of Carnwath, in the troublous times of Bruce
and Baliol. It has evidently been a place of strength, as it is sur-
rounded by a deep ditch, and large mound, f though for what pur-
pose it was raised must remain unknown. The present proprietor,
Sir N. Macdonald Lockhart, Bart., has, during the last season,
encircled it with a ditch and hedge, and planted it with hard wood,
the Scotch fir never having thriven well upon it. These trees -a
colony of crows has now taken possession of, and seems determined
to destroy, by the load of nests, — having, it is worthy of remark,
returned only lately, after an absence of forty or fifty years.
North and west from the cairn, on the other side of the moss,
are the ruins of Couthalley Castle, formerly the residence of the
* The above was communicated to me, in so far as the minerals of Wilsontown
are concerned, by Mr James Mcason, formerly a clerk at the works, and now teach-
ing a small school in the village of Forth.
The distance of Wilsontown from the sea is no doubt a great drawback on the
works, — the iron having to be conveyed to Borrowstounness, a distance of eighteen
miles. This the Union Canal will, perhaps, in some measure remedy.
•f The Sommerville papers mention this mound as a memorial of the first Baron
Sommerville's firm adherence to the " Brucean interest," in opposition to the " Bal-
liol faction." Thus, after stating, that " during all the days of his life he was a con-
stant follower of King Robert Bruce, and ane adherer to his sone King David's in-
terest when it was in the most desperate condition," they thus proceed : " Witnes
his casting up a quantitie of earth, of his lands upon the south-west of Carnwath
toune, which makeing a little hill, 'tis called yet, omnis terra. This was the cus-
tome of these tymes, by which homage they that held the King of Scotland supreme
under God wer distinguished from the Balliol party, or such as owed any homage to
the King of England."
Of such a custom we have no trace, so far as I know, in Scottish history — and the
name omnis terra, I never heard applied to the mound in question — and perhaps, af-
ter all, it may be regarded only as a look-out station, connected with Couthalley castle,
as it commands an extensive view of the country around, and is distinctly seen from
the opposite side of the moss, where the remains of the castle stand.
84 LANARKSHIRE.
ancient family of Sommerville, one of the most opulent and power-
ful families in this part of the country, about the middle of the
twelfth century. Hither James the Sixth seems frequently to have
repaired, perhaps to enjoy his favourite sport of hunting, and here
he seems also to have sometime spent a considerable portion of
his time, vas some of the charters granted by him are dated at
Couthalley.* The castle is now a complete ruin, though its extent
may yet be marked ; and, from its situation, surrounded on every
side by a deep ditch and earthen mound, with a drawbridge on the
west, it must have been a place of very great strength. It is situated
on the property of John Wilson of Westsidewood, but Sir N. Mac-
donald Lockhart, Bart, is the hereditary Keeper of it.
But the most perfect piece of antiquity which is presented in the
parish is the aisle which we have already mentioned, and which,
though built in 1424, retains much of its original beauty and gran-
deur. It is a Gothic structure, covered with freestone flags; and
the north window especially appears to have been a beautiful piece
of workmanship. It has, successively, been the burying place of the
Sommerville family, of the Dalziels, Earls of Carnwath, and now of
a branch of the Lockhart family. The church, to which, no doubt,
it was attached, and of which it formed a part, was founded in 1386,
and endowed by the existing Lord Sommerville in 1424, with some
lands, which the relict of one of his successors in vain endeavoured
to resume. It was founded for a provost and six prebendaries, and
there was at the same time, and by the same person, provision made
for the maintenance of eight poor old men ; but when or how this
provision ceased is now unknown.
III. — POPULATION.
1. Population in- 1755, * - . - 1 - - 2390
1821, '> -- - - _ 2888
1831, . . 3505
Numbers in villages, - _ 1858
2. Average of births for the last seven years, but many of the dissenters are
not registered, and consequently are not reckoned here, -'< .; -F^V 90-J-
Average of deaths for the last five years, - 45
Do. marriages do. - - - : - 2?4-
3. Number of families, - 757
families chiefly employed in agriculture, 169
chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 185
Average number of persons in each, (nearly) . 41 1
4. Number of inhabited houses, . _ 707
Do. not inhabited, > ' -." - - - 181
* The castle of Couthalley, according to the Sommerville papers, was burned down
in 1320, and there is no record, so far as I have been able to ascertain, when or by
whom it was rebuilt. It was burned, no doubt, during some of the inroads of the
English, which were so frequent at the time, and led to the building of what is called
in the above-mentioned papers " the double tour in Carnwath towne." Of this " double
tour" not a vestige remains, though the situation of it is marked ou>t by certain lands
being still called Castle Sommerville.
CARNWATH. 85
The number of uninhabited houses arises from the breaking up
of the Wilsontown iron-works, which, though begun again, are
carried on upon a very different scale.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture and Rural Economy. — According to Forrest's map,
there are 25193 acres Scotch measure in the parish. Of these
not more than one-third are in cultivation.
The number of Scotch acres which remain constantly uncultivated, - 1 2000
That might be cultivated with a profitable application of capital, though a
great outlay of money would be required, probably 4400
In undivided common, - - 70
Under wood, - - 400
Husbandry. — Irrigation is carried on to a considerable extent in
many parts of the parish, though in very few scientifically, — most
of the farmers and proprietors seeming to imagine that there is no
difficulty in laying out and managing a water meadow. The general
duration of leases is nineteen years. The state of farm-buildings
is improving : the byre, the stable, and the barn all seem to oc-
cupy the chief attention in rearing a steading in this country ; and
though on the estate of Carnwath there are now a number of ex-
cellent dwelling-houses, yet, generally, the accommodation of the
farmer's family seems to have been only a secondary consideration.
The systems of agriculture pursued in the parish are different
in different situations. On one side there is strong and wet clay,
and on another a light gravelly soil ; in one part a deep black
loam, and in another little else but moss. The same rotation,
therefore, and the same mode of management cannot be pursued.
From Dippool, a small rivulet which divides the parish into nearly
equal portions, to the north boundary, clay and moss generally
prevail ; and though great improvements have been made on both,
the close retentive bottom of the one, and the immense depth of
the other, baffle the attempts of the husbandman. South from
Dippool to the Clyde and Medwin, the soil and climate are very
different ; and though there are in this part also immense fields of
moss, yet the most approved systems of agriculture are generally fol-
lowed. Little wheat is, indeed, sown, but there is a great extent of
turnips and potatoes, barley and oats, hay and pasture on every farm.
The rotation followed in this part of the parish is generally as
follows : — 1st, Oats after hay, or two years' pasture. 2d, Turnips
or potatoes, the turnips either shawed and rooted, and carried
home to the feeding stock and cows, or ate off by sheep. 3d, Bar-
ley or oats, sown down with grasses of various kinds, viz. ryegrass,
red, white, and yellow clover. The four-course shift, as it has
86 LANARKSHIRE.
been called by agriculturists, was followed here for a course of
yearsj and is in some cases still retained, but it has been found by
our experienced farmers far too severe, and has been given up.
The introduction of bone dust for raising turnip forms a new era
in the history of the agriculture of this district, and promises to
be of essential consequence to the farmer. It was introduced on-
ly about five years ago by one of our oldest and most enterprising
farmers, and there is hardly any one of capital on this south side
of the parish who does not use it. The turnips raised by it are ge-
nerally ate off by sheep, and thus, while the sheep pay well, the
field is left in the very best order for barley, with grass seeds. By
the use of it, too, the manure made at the steading by the cattle
fed there, and the cows kept, which are both numerous, can be
applied to other grounds, or the farmer is enabled to extend his
quantity of green crop. The bone dust has been confined here
chiefly to the raising of turnip ; but Sir Norman Macdonald
Lockhart, Bart, when factor on the estate of Carnwath, applied
it to top-dressing, and with every promise of success. A very dif-
ferent mode of culture is followed in the northern part of the pa-
rish. Oats are chiefly raised ; and only as many turnips as will
keep a few cows giving milk through the winter, while the quan-
tity of potatoes is generally restricted to what is necessary for fa-
mily use. This is caused by the nature of the soil, which is ge-
rally a wet clay, lying on a close bottom of till. Some most suc-
cessful attempts have been made, however, of late to introduce a
much greater extent of green crop into this part of the parish ;
and in a few years as great a change may be expected on the
clayey, as has already been made on the mossy grounds.
The latter, however, have occupied the chief attention of the
farmer in this quarter for a number of years back ; and I may
state, that within the last thirty years there has been taken out of
moss, and brought into crop, from 800 to 1000 acres. The greater
part of this ground was unproductive, being saturated with mois-
ture, and incapable of being pastured. Where any thing like grass
was produced, it was generally cut in the month of August, and
converted into a kind of meadow hay, but of so coarse a kind that it
was of little use, except for litter. In places, however, where this
used to be the only produce, we have now most luxuriant crops of
oats and hay, and even of rich pasture. The mode followed in
operating this wonderful change has generally been the following :
The field is first laid dry, dug, limed, and dunged, and two crops
of oats taken. It is then sown down with rye-grass, Yorkshire
CARNWATH. 87
fog, and white clover, and left to lie some years in grass. At the
end of this period it is taken up again, and one or two crops, as
before, are received from it, when it is again laid down, dung be-
ing applied with the crop, among which the grass-seeds are sown,
and, if well enough broken, the field is left to be as permanent pas-
ture. The great expense of digging has prevented 'many addi-
tional acres within the bounds of the parish from being cultivated
in the same way ; but an improvement has been introduced of late
years which promises to obviate in some measure this difficulty.
Wedge-draining has been followed in some places to a considera-
ble extent, and with complete success. By the use of it fields of
moss, which, in common language, would not carry a sparrow,
have been so completely dried, that the plough has been introdu-
ced, and done its work as successfully as on any other part of the
farm. In almost every corner of the parish improvements of the
above descriptions have been in progress, within the last twenty
years especially, and most successfully on the properties which lie
on the banks of Dippool, Medwin, and Cleughburn.
Dairy System. — The dairy system is carried on almost on every
farm to a great extent, and with great success. Some of the far-
mers keep twenty cows, and the prizes awarded by the Highland
Society to the district for the best managed dairy, and the best made
cheese, have, in almost every instance, found their way to this pa-
rish. The cheese is of the kind called Dunlop, and most of it is
carried to Edinburgh, where it is sold at from L. 2 to L. 3 per cwt.
Rent of Land. — The rent of land per acre is very different, ac-
cording to circumstances and situation. Thus, immediately around
the village of Carnwath, L. 4, and even L. 5 are paid for an acre,
and four guineas is the common grass mail for a milk cow, while
not much more than a mile from the same village, a hundred acres
will not bring much more than any of these sums. In the upper
part of the parish the same disparity prevails, but it may be men-
tioned, that, after the most minute investigation, the present in-
cumbent, in 1822, gave in the rental to the Court of Teinds at
L. 14,000 a-year. Since that period he has no reason to think
that it is lessened, though the liberality of Sir C. Macdonald Lock-
hart's deductions to his tenants have been such as to reduce it some-
what, so far as he was concerned.
Rate of Wages. — The wages of a good ploughman are from L.6
to L. 8 a half year ; of a female servant, from L. 3 to L. 4 for the
same time; of a labourer, from Is. 6d. to 2s. a day, in summer;
of a shearer (man) L. 2, of a woman 35s.
88 LANARKSHIRE.
Breeds of Live Stock. — It can hardly be said that there is a flock
of sheep in the parish, though we have them of all kinds, as black-
faced, Leicester, and Cheviot. The first are bred on the moor-
land and high part of the parish; the second fattened on some of
our best farms ; and the third only are bought in, to eat off the
turnip in winter. The breed of cattle is chiefly what is called the
Ayrshire. The cows are almost universally Ayrshire, as these are
accounted best for the dairy; and while the quey calves are reared
in numbers, and with the utmost care, the bulls are fattened and
sent as veal to the Edinburgh market.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Village. — The village of Carnwath is much changed for the better
within the last twenty years. Formerly its streets were encumbered
with dung-hills and peat-stacks, which are now all swept away ; and
even the old houses now present an appearance of comfort and clean-
liness. Many of the new houses are handsome ; and should Sir
Norman Macdonald Lockhart, Bart, succeed in his plans of feu-
ing, which he has already done to a considerable extent, the next
twenty years will do more for its improvement than even the last.
Means of Communication. — The roads throughout the parish
are in a far better state than formerly ; and there is one change
which deserves to be particularly marked, as by it the neighbouring
parishes are in a manner brought nearer to each other, and a new
thoroughfare is opened to the country at large. The Clyde, which
is the boundary of the parish on the south and south-west, often over-
flows its banks, and even long before it does so becomes impassable
by the fords. For at least nine months in the year the parishes of Pet-
tinain and Carnwath were thus separated by 8 or 9 miles. To this
I have been exposed even in the month of July, while the distance
betwixt the one place and the other was not above 2-J miles. This
led the proprietors on both sides to think of some means of commu-
nication more direct and convenient ; and about five years ago a
boat or float was erected, and has ever since continued to ply on
the river, to the immense comfort and accommodation of the in-
habitants on both sides, as well as of the country in general. The
float is large, running upon a chain, and two or even three loaded
carts can pass on it at a time. Thus a new outlet for the lime
and coal of the parish is opened up, and were the roads on each
side more improved, they would obtain a sale much more extend-
ed than ever they have yet done. The Clyde is, indeed, still im-
passable during some of the winter floods, the holms on each side
3
CARNWATH. 89
being so extensive ; but this continues only for a few hours, and
were the south pier raised a few feet, which the proprietors talk
of doing, the river will be impassable for even a shorter period.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is most inconveniently
situated for the great body of the parishioners, being placed at the
south and west end of the parish. There are, indeed, only two fa-
milies immediately to the west, and not above ten or twelve on the
south of the church. Many families are thus placed six and seven
miles from the enjoyment of public ordinances, and in a high coun-
try such as this is, it is not to be expected that in winter the in-
habitants of the upper districts are to attend regularly. Of them
in general, however, I am happy to speak in terms of high commen-
dation, and many a day their pews may be seen filled, while many
who are within hearing of the Sabbath bell obey not the summons
which it sends forth. The church was built in 1798, and is neither
elegant nor commodious. * Being set down close beside the aisle
of the old one, which, though built in 1424, still remains a hand-
some Gothic structure ; the contrast only serves to indicate the
different spirit in which these things were gone about in the fif-
teenth and in the eighteenth century.
It is seated for 1100 people, and is, of course, too small for our
population, and were it not for the accommodation afforded by dis-
senters, many of the parishioners would have no opportunity of re-
ceiving religious instruction. At our communion, indeed, a large
body of the communicants are obliged to be without doors alto-
gether. The seats erected for the communion table were, till
within these few years, appropriated to the use of the poor, but one
of them is now occupied by an heritor and his family, of course,
with the consent of the other heritors.
The manse was built in 1817, and is, upon the whole, substan-
tial and convenient. The glebe consists of ten acres, lying imme-
diately round the manse, and since the improvements made upon it,
by ditching, draining, and levelling, is not unproductive. It is
worth L. 2 per acre, though the land in the crofts around the vil-
lage brings a much higher price, people paying for convenience,
rather than going to market for every thing they need. The
amount of stipend is 16 chalders, 8 of meal, and 8 of barley, and
L. 10 for communion elements.
* The church was last year very much improved, both internally and externally.
The ceiling, which was very much broken, was completely renewed ; the whole in-
terior white-washed, and a stove erected. I have little doubt, but in a few years,
this last improvement will repay itself, for in addition to the comfort which it yields
to the congregation, it has extracted all the damp from the wood and walls, which
must have otherwise accelerated their ruin.
90 LANARKSHIRE.
There are no chapels of ease, though, from what has already been
stated respecting distance, and considering that the population of
Wilsontown,* Forth, and the corner of the parish beyond them,
amounts to nearly 1000, there is certainly much need for a chapel
of some kind. In former years this was in some measure remedied
by the Relief chapel already mentioned at Climpy, and by means
of a chaplain in communion with the Established church, kept and
paid by the Wilsontown Company, when in its prosperity. Climpy
chapel, however, like the houses around it, is fast falling into ruins,
and Wilsontown chapel, though in good order, is seldom opened for
divine service, f
About three miles north from this, on the road to Wilsontown,
there is a Burgher New Light chapel, which has been of consider-
able service in providing accommodation for our redundant popu-
lation ; and there is no other dissenting house in the parish. The
minister has for stipend, L. 90, with a house and a few acres of r
land. The chapel was built and seated for 400 people, but was
contracted some years ago, and there are now betwixt 200 and
300 joined members. $
The attendance on the Established church is highly creditable
to the parishioners ; for on an average there are upwards of 1100
communicants. This, with the accommodation originally pro-
vided, rendered our service at the Sacrament of the Lord's Sup-
per very protracted, there being fifteen tables. For two years back,
however, we have contrived to shorten the service, by obtaining
accommodation for forty additional communicants, at each table,
* The villages are Carnwath, containing upwards of 800 inhabitants, the great body
of whom are employed in weaving, and dependent on Glasgow for employment ; —
Newbigging 200, entirely weavers ; — Braehead a mixed population of 120, weavers
and labourers ; — Forth 300, chiefly miners, as being close upon Wilsontown ; — and
Wilsontown 400, miners and labourers of all kinds belonging to the works.
•f One of these chapels might easily be procured, could a stipend be obtained for a
minister. Climpy is, indeed, now at a distance from the great body of the popula-
tion, while Wilsontown is almost in the centre, of course the latter would be by much
the more desirable situation. If Government, therefore, would allow even L. 50, so
as to procure a preacher there, it would be of immense consequence, not only to the
parish, but to the outskirts of West Calder, and Carstairs. Since the above was writ-
ten, I am happy to find, that the present company at Wilsontown have resolved to
employ a preacher of the Establishment to teach and preach at the works. They in-
tend to carry on the works to a much greater extent than they have been wrought
for many years, which necessarily implies a great addition to the population, and
renders the appointment of a chaplain the more necessary.
f Since the above was written, a schism has taken place in this congregation, which
has led to the building of another chapel, in the village of Carnwath, in connection
with^the same body. The consequence of this has been increased difficulties to each
of the congregations. The portion of hearers in the village of Carnwath, being per-
haps the wealthiest, brought the former minister from Braehead to labour among
them; but, on what account I know not, he soon found it necessary to embark for
America with his family. The minister at Braehead, I am told, has now only L. 60,
and his congregation is, of course, minus, by the portion belonging to this village.
CARNWATH. 91
by means of pews at each end of the church, and joining thern to
the original communion table. We have thus reduced our num-
ber of tables to ten.
The amount of collections in the church has fallen off very
much within the last seven years, — in consequence, chiefly, of the
increase of assessments laid on the parish for the support of the
poor. This falling off has been from L. 80 a -year to no more than
L. 40. The heritors have now to provide from L. 144 to L. 186
of assessment.
Education. — There are at present eight schools in the parish ;
seven besides the parochial school, which, like the church, is most
inconveniently situated for the general population of the parish.
The parochial teacher has the maximum salary, and is otherwise
well provided with an excellent school and dwelling-house ; but the
others have no salary, and in some cases have even to provide a
school-house for themselves. The parochial teacher receives yearly
from school fees about L. 37 ; and his other emoluments amount
to L. 14.
The people are in general anxious to obtain education for their
children, and the heritors laudably pay for the families of paupers ;
perhaps there are no persons in the parish who are unable to read.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are 46 regularly enrolled
poor, and 16 occasional. The average sum allotted to each is
from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3 per annum.
Library. — There is a subscription library in the village of Carn-
wath.
Fairs, fyc. — There are five fairs in this village in the year, and
a weekly market, which is devoted solely to the sale of meal and
barley. One of these fairs, which is held in July, is chiefly for
hiring shearers, and for the sale of cows and young horses. In
another, about the middle of August, lambs form the staple com-
modity, though there are a great number of young horses also ;
and on the day after the fair a foot race is run, which deserves
mention, as it is one of the tenures by which the property of
Carnwath is held by the Lockhart family. The prize is a pair
of red hose, which are regularly contended for, and the old people
in the village tell me, that, fifty years ago, the laird used to have a
messenger ready, whenever the race was finished, to communicate
the intelligence to the Lord Advocate of Scotland. This prompt
information is now, I suppose, dispensed with ; but I can testify
that the race has been regularly run for the last twenty7five years.
92 LANARKSHIRE.
The day is indeed regarded as a holiday by the people for many miles
round, and the scene has been made still more attractive by the
present proprietor, Sir N. Macdonald Lockhart, Bart, who, in addi-
tion to the red hose, gives prizes for leaping, throwing the hammer,
putting the stone, playing quoits, &c. The day is finished with a
steeple chase on foot. Other two of the fairs, one in February, and
the other in October, are hiring fairs, as they are called, — than
which, a worse system for obtaining servants never was introduced
into a country. The evil, however, will, I believe, soon cure itself,
for as masters have already begun to feel the consequences of hir-
ing servants, without knowing any thing of their character, so few
servants of character will go to a fair for the purpose of being hired.
Alehouses, fyc.— The number of alehouses or rather whisky-
houses is by far too great ; and, of course, they have the most de-
teriorating effect on the morals of the people. This is an evil,
however, which it must be difficult to remedy, so long as the trus-
tees on roads have the power of granting licenses ; because each
is anxious to secure to his own particular toll-house that by which
the rent is augmented. Hence there are six tolls in the parish,
and to the keeper of each a license is granted, — and that in some
instances within a very short distance of a licensed inn.
Fuel. — Our fuel, though peats are in abundance, consists chiefly
of coal, which we have at a very reasonable rate ; a cart load of 12
cwt. costing about 2s. 6d. Reasonable as this rate is, however,
many of the people still lay in a store of peats, which every house-
holder has a right to cast in some one of the mosses which are
so abundant in the parish.
May 1834.
UNITED PARISHES .OF
WISTON AND ROBERTON.
PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. CHARLES WOOD, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name, Boundaries, $c. — THE parishes of Wiston and Rober-
ton were united in the year 1772. Roberton was probably so cal-
led from some eminent person of the name of Robert, or, from some
opulent family having conferred it as a portion upon a son of that
name. Two derivations are given of the name of Wiston. By
some it is supposed to have been originally Woolstown, or rather,
in the Scotch language, Woostown, in course of time corrupted
into Wiston, and to have been so called from its having been in
former times a great market for wool. It is certain that there is
still, about the middle of the village, a mound or small rising
ground, pointed out by the old inhabitants as the cross or place
where that market was held. By others, again, it is supposed to
have been originally Wisetown, thence easily contracted into Wis-
ton, and to have been so called from its having been the property
of a man of the name of Wise. The Place, the name of a farm
close upon the village, seems to indicate that it was at one time
the seat of the proprietor. Neither derivation is unnatural, though
which is the correct one it may not be easy to determine.
The united parish extends about 6 miles in length, and 4 in
breadth, exhibiting *very nearly the form of a parallelogram. It
is bounded on the east by the parish of Symington ; on the north
by the hill of Tinto ; on the west by the parish of Douglas ; and
on the south by the parish of Crawfordjohn and the river Clyde.
Topographical Appearances. — Tinto, the Hill of Fire, which
forms the northern boundary of the parish, is upwards of 2000 feet
above the level of the sea, and commands in every direction a most
extensive view. The principal points seen from it are Hartfell,
Queensberry Hill, Cairntable, Goatfell, Isle of Arran, the Bass,
the hills in the north of England, and even in the north of Ireland.
Directly opposite, and almost in the centre of the parish, is Dun-
gavel, a hill with two tops, presenting in its appearance a perfect
94 LANARKSHIRE.
contrast to its neighbour of Tinto ; the one being mild, green, and
beautiful ; the other, craggy, bold, and frowning.
There is no disease peculiar to the parish, and, from the recent
improvements in agriculture, and the increasing attention to the
accommodation of the people, counteracting to a certain extent
the natural influence of the climate, even the distempers which
formerly prevailed are now very much decreased.
Geology. — The soil is very different in different districts of
the parish ; it may be described as principally gravelly and black
loam ; great part of it, however, is exceedingly marshy. It is ge-
nerally supposed that there is coal in the parish. Some years ago
an attempt was made for it, which was suddenly and unaccounta-
bly abandoned, and has not since been repeated. At present, and
for several years past, there have been lime-works in full opera-
tion. The direction of the strata is from south to north ; the dip
14 feet; the inclination 1 in 7. One principal dike of whinstone
runs in a slanting direction along the west side of the layer. In
breadth it is 20 feet. There are also several clay dikes running
in irregular directions. Corals, branches of trees, nuts, shells of
various kinds, are frequently met with among the limestone strata.
A deer's horn, not petrified, was lately found in the alluvium ; and
a year or two ago, a fossil tree, found in these limestone quarries,
was sent to Edinburgh, and, on inspection, it appeared that none of
the kind had been seen before.
The hill of Tinto in this parish^ according to the accurate and
comprehensive description of the Rev. Dr Macknight, published in
the second volume of the Memoirs of the Wernerian Natural His-
tory Society, rises in a district where greywacke and superimposed
old red sandstone occur. The mountain itself in its lower part
presents rocks of old red sandstone conglomerate, but the predo-
minant rocks are of plutonian origin, chiefly claystone and felspar
porphyries, with subordinate masses of greenstone.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Land-owners. — There are seven heritors, all of them proprie-
tors of land upwards of the yearly value of L. 50. The two prin-
cipal are Lord Douglas, and Lockhart of Cleghorn. The only
resident heritor at present is Thomas Gibson, Esq. of Eastfield.
Macqueen, late Lord Justice- Clerk, bought the estate of Har-
dington, or Bagbie, as it was then called, which he very much im-
proved, and where he occasionally resided. Hardington House is
at present occupied by his grandson, Robert Macqueen, Esq.
Younger of Braxfield.
WISTON AND ROBERTON. 95
Parochial Registers. — The books belonging to the kirk-session
of the old parish of Roberton have unfortunately been lost, and
no trace of them can be discovered. The earliest of those belong-
ing to the old parish of Wiston bears the date of 1694, and with
occasional, but trifling interruptions, they are extant from that pe-
riod to the present.
III. — POPULATION.
The return to Dr Webster in 1755, the earliest account of the
population of the parish that we have been able to discover, gave
from Wiston 591, and from Roberton, 511, in all 1102. From
a census taken by the writer in the month of February last, it ap-
pears that the present population of the united parish is 949, or
153 less than it was about eighty years ago. In 1791, the popu-
lation was only 740, or 362 less than it was about forty years be-
fore. This large decrease was easily accounted for, from the cir-
cumstance, that beween the years 1755 and 1791, the system had
come into vogue of throwing several small farms into one large
farm, and, as a matter of course, driving the small tenants, with
their families, out* of the parish ; and the very gradual increase
which has since taken place is as easily accounted for on merely na-
tural principles. There are three villages in the parish, Roberton,
Wiston, and Newton of Wiston. And from the census taken in
February last, it appears that there were then residing in the vil-
lage of Roberton, 235 ; in the village of Wiston, 123 ; in the vil-
lage of Newton, 56 ; and in what may be called the country parts
of the parish, 535.
There is no register of deaths kept in this parish. The births
average from 15 to 20, and the marriages about 7 a year.
1 . Number of families in the parish, - 189
of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - 80
chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 48
2. Numbejr of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, ] 7
of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, 49
3. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, 358
betwixt 15 and 30, - - 262
30 and 50, - . 161
50 and 70, - - 151
upwards of 70, - 24
Perhaps it may be worth mentioning, that a week or two ago,
an aged couple, who, for upwards of half a century had trode
the path of life together, died within a few days of each other ;
the husband at the advanced age of 82, and the wife ten years older.
Customs, fyc. of 'the People. — Not very many years ago, cock-fight-
ing and foot-ball were favourite amusements in this district, and
were frequently made the subject of a trial of strength between two
96 LANARKSHIRE.
rival parishes. They are now sunk into merited oblivion, and their
place is well supplied by the not less interesting, and far less ex-
ceptionable amusement of curling. In their domestic character
and habits the people generally are manifestly improving; and
though there is still ample room for amendment, it is evident that
the indolent, slovenly, " canna' be fashed" system of the last cen-
tury is fast falling into disrepute, and yielding to a taste for neat-
ness, and a habit of cleanliness, both as to their houses and their
persons, the effects of which are already apparent. The farmers
are active, intelligent, and hospitable. Equally removed, on the
one hand, from the conditions and character of the mere serf, and,
on the other, from that of the gentleman farmer, they are, some
of them, wealthy, and all of them able to make a respectable ap-
pearance, enjoy in abundance the necessaries of life, and are be-
coming daily more alive to its comforts and its elegancies. The
lower orders are in general comfortable in their circumstances, and
contented with their lot; honest, industrious, and sober; inferior
to no peasantry in Scotland in point of intelligence, and unstained
by the prevalence of any particular vice, — poaching, perhaps, ex-
cepted, which, in the eyes of some, seems to possess an attraction
absolutely irresistible.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture and Rural Economy. — There are about 2183 acres
in this parish in constant rotation ; about 1600 occasionally in til-
lage ; about 5388 which never have been cultivated, and which re-
main constantly waste, or in sheep pasture; and at least 1500
which, with a profitable application of capital, might be added to
the cultivated land of the parish, whether that land were afterwards
to be kept in occasional tillage, or in permanent pasture. There
is no land in this parish in a state of undivided common. There
are only about 200 acres under wood, none of it indigenous ; of
these nearly one-half have been planted within these few years on
the property of Lockhart of Cleghorn. The wooded grounds are
judiciously laid out, and are carefully attended to. The wood thrives
remarkably well, and promises, ere long, to give a new face to
this part of the parish, and holds out every encouragement to the
other proprietors to beautify and improve their properties in a simi-
lar manner. It consists, in general, of larch and Scotch fir, with
a sprinkling of hardwood, in the proportion, perhaps, of twenty of
the former to one of the latter.
Rent of Land. — The land in this parish is of such various value,
some of it being worth, perhaps, L.4 per acre, and some of it
WISTON AND ROBE11TON. 97
scarcely 4d., that it is difficult to say what is its average rent. Of
the land constantly in rotation, perhaps L. 2, 1 Os. may be taken as
a pretty fair average; and of that which is only occasionally in til-
lage, perhaps 15s. The average rate of grazing is L.3 for an ox
or cow, and 5s. for a ewe or full-grown sheep pastured for the year.
Rate of Wages. — The rate of labour, winter and summer, for
farm-labourers is Is. 4d., and for country artisans, 2s. 6d. per day,
victuals included ; for a man-servant, L. 12, and a woman-servant,
L.5, 15s. per annum.
Live-Stock, fyc. — There are about 185 scores of sheep in the
parish, chiefly of the black-faced Linton breed ; about 366 milk
cows, principally of the Ayrshire breed, though a new species has
lately been introduced, and found upon trial to be of superior qua-
lity, viz. the Lanarkshire newly improved breed, crossed by Ayr-
shire cow and short-horned bull, or vice versa ; and about 76
horses employed in agriculture, of the Clydesdale breed. There is
an evident growing attention to the improvement of the breeds of
sheep and cattle, to which, perhaps, the various cattle shows in the
neighbourhood have not a little contributed ; and, indeed, the cha-
racter of the husbandry in general has of late very much improved,
and is still improving, particularly as to the reclaiming of waste
land, draining and liming. As a proof of which, I may state that
one of our farmers, Mr Muir, Hardington Mains, obtained this
year the silver medal given by the Highland Society for the re-
claiming of waste land ; and I believe that another, Mr Wilson,
Hillend, would have been equally successful had he chosen to ap-
ply. It is right to add, that the merit of whatever has been done
in this respect is almost entirely due to the tenants themselves,
who receive in general but too little assistance from their respec-
tive proprietors.
Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in
the parish cannot be exactly ascertained; bufit is believed that the
following is nearly correct :
Produce of grain of all kinds, L. 3370 0 0
Potatoes and turnips, - - 1456 0 0
Hay, meadow and cultivated, 2548 0 0
Grazing, at rate of L. 3 per cow, and 5s. per ewe or sheep, 250 0 0
Lime-works, rated at 18,000 bolls per annum, Is. 6d. per boll, - 1350 0 0
Miscellaneous produce, including dairy, £c. 2923 0 0
Total yearly value of raw produce raised, - L. 11,897 0 0
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Villages. — Biggar, about seven miles distant, is our nearest post
LANARK.
98 LANARKSHIRE.
and market-town. As already stated, there are three villages in
the parish, Roberton, Wiston, and Newton of Wiston.
Means of Communication. — The turnpike road from Stirling to
Carlisle runs through the whole length of the parish, and has in
various respects been of vast advantage to it. There are no bridges
of any consequence ; the fences are deficient, but such as we have
are tolerably good.
Ecclesiastical State. — The present church is that of the old pa-
rish of Wiston. It was enlarged after the annexation of the two
parishes, has since been repaired, and is at present in a very to-
lerable state. It is situate within a mile and a-half of the eastern,
and fully four miles and a-half from the western, extremity of the
parish. But though not exactly centrical, as even the private roads
in the parish are now generally good, those at a distance have no
great reason to complain ; nor do they seem to feel it any incon-
venience, for few attend church with greater regularity. It is seated
for 355, not the legal provision ; but by means of forms and fold-
ing seats, accommodation has lately been provided for about thirty
morej and these newly provided sittings are free. — The manse was
built in the year 1750, and during the present incumbency, up-
wards of twenty years ago, a considerable addition was made to it. —
There are two glebes, the glebe of the old parish of Roberton, and
that of the old parish of Wiston. The former is sixteen acres in
extent, and is let at present for L.25; the latter is about seven acres
and a-half, including the garden and site of the manse and offices,
and would let, I suppose, for about L.20. The glebes are more
than two miles distant from each other, and though it is strongly
recommended in the decreet of annexation " to exchange the glebe
and yard of Roberton for lands lying contiguous to the glebe of
Wiston, ' the recommendation has not yet been attended to. The
teinds are exhausted, and by a decreet of modification and locality,
1816, the stipend was fixed at L. 191, 11s. 8d. money, and one
chaldron meal.
There is a Relief chapel in the village of Roberton. It was built
about thirty-three years ago, and is seated for 377. The minis-
ter's salary, I believe, depends entirely on the produce of the cha-
pel ; what that may exactly amount to I cannot tell, for, of course,
I have no official communication on the subject, but I rather think
it will not exceed L. 40 per annum. It has been in a declining
state for several years ; nor is its decline to be ascribed to any cir-
cumstances of an accidental or extraordinary nature. There are 1 50
families attending the Established church, and 42 families attend-
WISTON AND ROBERTON. 99
ing different dissenting chapels, particularly the Relief one already
mentioned. There are 766 persons of all ages belonging to the
Establishment, and 183 of all ages belonging to dissenterism.
There are 405 in communion with the church of Scotland, and
102 in communion with dissenting bodies.
Education. — There are three schools in the parish, two paro-
chial and one private and unendowed. The branches generally
taught are, English, writing, arithmetic, and occasionally Latin.
The salary of the schoolmaster of Wiston is L.25, 13s. 3d., that
of the schoolmaster of Roberton, L. 30. The fees in the school
of Wiston are, English, 2s., English and writing, 2s. 6d., English,
writing, and arithmetic, 3s., English, writing, arithmetic, and Latin,
4s. per quarter. In the school of Roberton the fees are, English, Is.
6d. English and writing, 2s. 6d. English, writing, and arithmetic, 3s.
6d. per quarter. At the annual examination in March, there were
attending the parochial school of Wiston, 64 ; the parochial school
of Roberton, 56 ; and the private school in Roberton 32. Both
parochial teachers have the full legal accommodation. In no-
thing, perhaps, has there been such a decided improvement of
late years, as in the system of parochial teaching; and in no parish
with which I am acquainted are the people more alive to the bene-
fits of education, nor do they evince a keener interest in the subject.
This is apparent from the fact, that in the poorest hamlets in the
most distant parts in the parish, you will not find a child six years
of age who has not been at school, as well as from the great turn
out of parents on the day of annual examination, and the eager-
ness with which they listen to the proceedings.
Libraries. — There are two public libraries in the parish, one a
subscription library, consisting of books of every description, the
other a Sabbath school library, consisting exclusively of religious
works, but not limited in its circulation to the children attending
the school. Both are well supported.
Friendly Society. — A friendly society was instituted a consider-
able time ago, though in what year it is impossible to say, as the
original books have been lost. The earliest record in the pos-
session of the society bears the date of 1782. We regret to add,
that it is not quite so flourishing as it once was ; and we can ascribe
its decline ( temporary we hope) to no circumstance, so much as
to the almost general extinction of that spirit of honest independ-
ence by which the inhabitants of Scotland were at one time so
remarkably and honourably distinguished; nor can we think of
any thing more likely to revive the prosperity of the society, than
100 LANARKSHIRE,
for the heritors and other influential individuals connected with the
parish to give it their countenance and support, by enrolling them-
selves as members, and taking an interest in its proceedings. For
their own sakes, as well as for the sake of the community at large,
they ought to do so, as it is now, in this parish at "least, the only
remaining bar against the inroads of pauperism.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons
receiving parochial aid is from 15 to 20, exclusive of occasional
paupers ; the sum allotted to each individual is of course regulated
by circumstances. The least that is given (and truly it is as little
as can be given) is 4s. per month, and the most 15s. In 1832,
the total amount of money received in behalf of the poor was
L. 119, 11s. Hd. The church collections amounted to L. 12, 13s.
4£d. and, with the exception of the interest of L. 100, and a few
other inconsiderable items, the remainder of the sum arose from
the regular assessment, at the rate of lOd. Sterling, on each
pound Scotch, one half paid by the proprietor, the other by the,
occupier.
Inns. — There are no fewer than four inns or public houses in
the parish, while one would be quite sufficient. Their effect, as
might be expected, is decidedly bad.
Fuel. — The fuel is coal from the neighbouring parishes of Douglas
and Carmichael. The price is 8d. a-load at the pit, and lOd. a-load
for driving. The distance is about six miles.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
In the Statistical Account of 1792, it is stated, " there is, strict-
ly speaking, no poors' roll. It is sometimes necessary to press aid
on the necessitous, such is their modesty." From the foregoing
account, it will be seen that matters are in this respect lament-
ably altered. Various causes have no doubt contributed to this
effect. The dissenting chapel at Roberton, by thinning for some
time the attendance at the Established church, necessarily diminish-
ed the amount of church collections, whilst the enlarged scale on
which the lime-works came to be wrought, by introducing into the
parish a poor and thoughtless population, added to the number of the
necessitous, without providing any supply for their relief. These
two circumstances combined gave rise to the necessity of a legal
assessment, and that in its turn, and as its necessary consequence,
has extinguished the spirit of independence, increased the number
of the poor, and dried up almost every source of voluntary contri-
bution for their support.
May 1834.
GLASGOW. 103
wl^re the ancient town was situated. In the landward parts of the
suburban parishes the soil is highly cultivated, and produces plen-
tiful crops.
Climate.* — Climate commonly denotes the nature of the weather
usually prevalent in any particular district or country. Northern
climates are more favourable to health and longevity than tropi-
cal regions. The alternate change of seasons produces a variety,
which cheers the mind and acts upon the animal frame. Healthi-
ness in the mass of the people constitute an essential part of na-
tional prosperity, because without it labour cannot be performed.
Salubrious air and fertile soil contribute to produce an industrious
peasantry.
As Glasgow has taken the lead in the formation of tables for exhi-
biting the probability of human life in large towns, we have felt it
right to give a particular account of the climate. In the second
edition of Cleland's folio Statistical work, pp. 102 to 109, the year-
ly quantity of rain is given for thirty years, as ascertained in the
Macfarlane Observatory, by Dr James Couper, Professor of Astro-
nomy in this University, showing an yearly average of 22.328
inches. The least quantity in any one year during that period
was 14.468 in 1803, and the greatest 28.554 in 1828. The quan-
tity of rain which falls at Glasgow is less than at Edinburgh : this
may be accounted for by the circumstance, that the former place
is nearly twenty miles inland from the west coast, and is therefore
beyond the immediate influence of the Atlantic, which renders some
parts of the north-west of England so rainy, while its distance from
the east coast, and the high land between it and Edinburgh, screen
it from those violent rains, when the east wind blows, which are so
common in Edinburgh. The distance of the hills from Glasgow
is greater than from Edinburgh, and it is in some degree screened
by high ground, both on the east and west.
The state of the thermometer and atmospheric appearances is also
given in the work alluded to, every morning throughout the year
* " The two seas by which Scotland is bounded, in consequence of their difference
of temperature, have a remarkable effect on its climate. The German Ocean, which
stretches along the east coast, being of small extent and of no considerable depth, is
easily affected by the changes of the seasons on the adjacent continent, in so much
, that it is three degrees colder in winter and five degrees warmer in summer than the
Atlantic, which, without any material interruption, occupies the western coast of the
kingdom."
! " In summer, therefore, in consequence of the high comparative temperature of the
German Ocean, a copious evaporation takes place throughout its whole extent, which
produces those easterly haars, as they are called, or thick mists, which are seen at a cer-
tain period of the day to arise from the sea ; and which are not only dangerous to na-
vigation, but advancing upon the land render the eastern coast often highly disagree-
uMe '' — Sir John Sinclair's Statistical Analysis of Scotland, p. 9">.
104 LANARKSHIRE.
at nine o'clock ; but here we have been enabled, from knowing the
state of the thermometer every hour, day, and night during the
year 1834, to give the average monthly for the year. This has
been obtained through the politeness of Mr Mackain, the scienti-
fic manager of the Glasgow Cranstonhill Water- Works Company.
Mr Mackain suspended one of Crichton's Fahrenheit thermometers
in an open well about twenty feet diameter, cradled with stone, in a
position apart from the rays of the sun, and gave in charge to the
day and night engineer, who are in constant attendance, to mark
the hourly state of the thermometer in a book; and from that book
Mr Mackain constructed a table, exhibiting the temperature hourly,
daily, weekly, monthly, and yearly. The following is an abstract
from that laborious and most important document.
1834, Jan. 24, greatest heat, 44.37 Jan. 29. least heat, 33.12 average, 40.58
Feb. 18, 46.08 Feb. 13, 32.25 40.08
March 12,
April 24,
May 27,
June 2,
July 4,
August 3,
Sept. 18,
Oct. 4,
Nov. 5,
Dec. 6,
49.95 March 20, 35.45
52.16 April 11, 38.25
59.95 May 1, 45.41
63.45 June 13, 5233
67.33 July 19, 56.87
67.83 August 28, 49.75
61.45 Sept. 13, 48.79
56.33 Oct 24, 36.95
52.29 Nov. 24, 30.70
52.16 Dec. 19, 26.37
42.32
45.37
54.70
57.91
62.04
59.37
53.17
48.19
41.59
39.63
The greatest height of the thermometer in June was 72°, and
the lowest 46°. In July 78° and 54°. In August 78° and 49°.
These extremes are applicable only to a few hours in the respec-
tive months. Average temperature at the Cranstonhill Water- Works
during two years, viz. from 1st January 1833 to 1st January 1835,
48.43.
The mean heat of Glasgow was formerly determined by Professor
Thomas Thomson to be 47°. 75X, while that of Edinburgh, as deter-
mined by Professor Playfair, was 47° 7'; but it is presumed that these
eminent philosophers had not the advantage of hourly inspection.
In 1834 and 1835 the winters were so mild that ice was im-
ported from Iceland to Glasgow. This may account for the dif-
ference of temperature, as ascertained by Professor Thomson.
Hydrography. — The city is bounded on the south by the Clyde,
and that river bounds the Gorbals on the north. The Barony pa-
rish is bounded on the west parts by the river Kelvin. The Forth
and Clyde, and the Monkland Canals, run through a considerable
part of it, and it contains the Hogganfield and Frankfield lochs,
which act as feeders to the town mills.
Mineralogy. — The suburbs contain large quantities of coal, iron-
stone, limestone, freestone, whinstone, fire and potters clay, and
GLASGOW. 105
other valuable minerals. Kilpatrick and Campsie hills abound
with a great variety of curious and valuable minerals, but as these
belong to neighbouring parishes, they are not noticed here.
II. — CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
The following facts, collected from the records of the town-
council, the Presbytery, and kirk-session of Glasgow, the Bishops'
Cartulary, and other authentic documents, by Dr Cleland, convey a
pretty accurate account of the state of society in Glasgow at the
periods referred to.
See of Glasgow. — Although Glasgow was an early seat of the
Church, historians do not agree as to the time when the See was
founded. That it is next to St Andrews in point of antiquity
is beyond all doubt. With regard to its founder, Kennet, in his
Parochial Antiquities, says, it was instituted by Kentigerri or St
Mungo, in the year 560.* Dr Keelyn, speaking of the see of St
Asaph in Wales, observes, " that the see was founded by St Ken-
tigern, a Scot, in 583," and that " St Kentigern was then Bishop
of Glasgow." From these authorities, it may be inferred that St
Mungo founded the See of Glasgow, and became the first bishop,
and that when a cathedral of sufficient grandeur was finished, it
would be dedicated to St Mungo. Baldrade, St Mungo's disciple,
who founded a religious house at Inchinnan, is said to have suc-
ceeded him in the bishoprick. There is no record of the See for
more than 500 years after this period. This great blank cannot
be accounted for with any degree of certainty. Among other con-
jectures, it is said that the church was destroyed by the ravages
of the Danes, who murdered or drove off the religious who had
settled in Glasgow.
In the year 1115, David, Prince of Cumberland refounded the
See, ancl having, in 1124, succeeded his brother Alexander I. to
the throne of Scotland, he promoted his chaplain, John Achaius,
to the bishoprick in 1129. In 1133, the cathedral was solemnly
consecrated in presence of the King, who endowed it with the lands
of Partick. In 1165, Pope Alexander III. issued a bull command-
ing the faithful to visit the cathedral of Glasgow. In 1176, Bishop
Joceline enlarged the cathedral, and rebuilt a part of it in a style
• " The city and castle of Glasgow have long been the seat of the bishops and
archbishops of Glasgow. St Mungo, to whom the cathedral was dedicated, is esteem-
ed the first bishop of Glasgow. He was of great birth, great piety, and great learn-
ing. Much that is written of him depends upon the credit of the authors. He lived
in the sixth certury. There is a bull of erection and confirmation of the bishoprick
soon after the i'ope's authority was owned in this kingdom." — Description of Ihc She-
riffdom of f. fulfil k, by William Uaniiltnn of Wtshaw, compiled about the beginning of
tin: last cctitttry, and recently printed by the Maitland Club, pp. 4, 5.
106 LANARKSHIRE,
more magnificent than it had ever been. In the same year, Wil-
liam the Lion, King of Scots, granted a charter to the town for
holding a market on Thursday. In four years thereafter, Glasgow
was erected into a royal burgh, and, " in 1190, the town received
a royal charter for holding a fair every year, for ever, from the 8th
of the Apostle Peter, (29th June,) and for the space of eight days
complete." The fair commences on the second Monday of July,
and continues the whole week. In 1210 the Gray friars Monas-
tery was at the foot of the Deanside Brae. Little more is known of
it, than that the citizens of Glasgow, at that date, went in a body
on the last day of the fair to pay their respects to the Abbot of
Melrose, who lived in the monastery, and had been instrumental
in procuring the fair.
In 1270, the religious fraternity of Blackfriars was patronized
by Sir Matthew7 Stewart of Castlemilk, who granted an an-
nuity from his estate, " on condition of their saying mass for ever
for the souls of him, the said Matthew, and for his mither and
bairns of our place, progenitors, and successors, and all Christian
souls perpetually." This ancient family has always been respect-
able. In 1398, Sir Walter Stewart of Castlemilk, brother to Sir
John Stewart of Darnley, was named one of the sureties on the
part of Scotland, in a treaty of peace between England and Scot-
land.
In 1300, Edward I. of England took upon him to appoint An-
thony Beik to the see of Glasgow. Earl Percy, at the same time,
usurped the military government of the western part of Scotland,
and took possession of the Episcopal palace in Glasgow.* Sir
* The ancient castle of Carstairs was originally a Roman station or fortification,
and was given by King David, or St David, as he was called, in 1126, to the Bishop
of Glasgow for his country palace. The following curious information is from the
Rotuli Scotia?, in the Tower, published by the Record Commission.
" Wheri Edward I. was at Berwick in 1292, deciding on the claims of Bruce and
Baliol, he was in possession of all the fortresses in Scotland. At that period the
King granted a license to Robert Wiseheart, Bishop of Glasgow, to finish the Castle
of Carstairs, which had been begun without leave. The following is a copy of the
license: — * The King and Sovereign Lord of the kingdom of Scotland, to all his
bailiffs and faithful men to whom these shall come, greeting, Whereas a venerable
father, Robert, Bishop of Glasgow, at his manor of Carstairs, in the county of Lanark,
a certain castle of stone and mortar, after the death of Alexander of blessed memory,
late King of Scotland, without any license, began to build. We, to the same bishop
a special grace, being willing to have granted in this part to him, for ourselves, and
for our heirs, that he the said castle so begun, may finish and fortify with kernals,
and the same so finished and turreted, or kernallated, may hold to him and to his
successors for ever. Nor wish we that the said bishop or his successors, by occasion
of the said castle being begun without our licence or will, as aforesaid, is by us or our
heirs, or our bailiffs or servants whatsomever, be quarelled, or in any way aggrieved.
Witness the King at Berwick-on- Tweed the 15th of July."
It is remarkable that in 1292 the castle and manor of Carstairs was possessed by
one of our most public-spirited and benevolent bishops, and that, after a lapse of more
GLASGOW. 107
William Wallace, who was then at Ayr, determined on ridding his
country of the English usurpers, and, accompanied by Wallace of
Richardtown, the Laird of Auchinleck, his friend James Cleland,
and others, gave battle to the usurper in the High Street, nearly
where the college now stands, when Sir William cleft the head of
Earl Percy with one stroke of his sword, on which the route of the
English became general. On 28th August in the following year,
King Edward offered oblations at the shrine of St Mungo, in the
cathedral church of Glasgow, for the good news of Sir Malcolm
de Drummond, a Scottish knight, being taken prisoner by Sir John
Seagreave.
It appears from the Bishop's Cartulary that the plague raged
furiously here in the years 1330, 1350, 1380, 1381, 1600, 1602,
1604, and in 1649.
In 1387, the great wooden spire of the Cathedral of Glasgow,
which was covered with lead, was destroyed by lightning. In
1392, a mint-house was erected in the Drygate, where coins were
struck with the motto, " Robertus Dei Gratia Rex Scotorum, vil-
la de Glasgow, Dominus Protector."
In 1420, there was a convent for Grayfriars somewhere about
the west end of the Grayfriars' Wynd. The friars were patroniz-
ed by. the celebrated but unfortunate Isobel Duchess of Albany,
cousin to James, afterwards I. of Scotland, who, on 18th May
1431, at Inchmurran, mortified the lands of Ballagan to the con-
vent of the Grayfriars at Glasgow, for the express purpose of " the
salvation of our souls, and that of Murdoch, Duke of Albany, of
worthy memory, our dear husband ; and also of Duncan Earl of
Lennox, our father, and of Walter, James, and Alexander, our
sons." It is worthy of remark, that this pious lady received from
the King, her cousin, as a present, the heads of her husband, her
father, and her sons, Walter and Alexander ; James having fled
into Ireland.
In J426, Bishop Cameron, soon after his induction, established
the Commissariat Court, and increased the number of the prebenda-
ries of the cathedral to thirty-two. In 1441, St Enoch's Church
was built within St Enoch's gate, and dedicated to the blessed Vir-
gin and St Michael. It had a principal, eight prebendaries, and
a large bury ing-ground. There is no vestige of the bury ing-
ground, and there seems to be no record when the church was
than 500 years, the magnificent mansion and extensive manor of Carstairs is possess-
ed by a citizen of Glasgow, Mr Henry Monteith, alike distinguished for public spi-
rit and active benevolence, whether engaged in mercantile enterprise, in the senate,
or in honourable retirement.
iOS LANARKSHIRE.
taken down. In 1450, Bishop Turnbull obtained a charter from
James II., erecting the town and patrimonies of the bishoprick into
a regality.
In 1456, St Nicholas' Hospital was founded and endowed by
Bishop Muirhead, for the maintenance of twelve poor laymen
and a priest. The Hospital was situated on the west side of Kirk
Street, near where the Bishop's palace stood. Its ruins were
taken down in 1808; the ground on which it stood now forms part
of the Gas Work premises. Its revenues, now reduced to about
L. 30 per annum, arise from ground annuals in the neighbourhood
of the hospital, Lindsay's Middle, or New Wynd, &c. The Town-
Council lately conferred the patronage on Provost Dalgleish. In
1484, the Collegiate Church of St Mary (Tron) was built, and
dedicated to the blessed Virgin. In 1488, the see of Glasgow was
made archiepiscopal, during Bishop Blackadder's incumbency.
The Bishop, along with the Earl of Bothwell, negotiated a mar-
riage between King James IV. of Scotland and the Lady Marga-
ret, eldest daughter of Henry VII. of England, which they brought
about to the mutual satisfaction of both kingdoms. This union
laid the foundation of the title of the Scotch Kings to the English
throne; which, in right of proximity of blood, King James VI. of
Scotland succeeded to, on the demise of Queen Elizabeth. In
1496, the Chapel of St Roque, belonging to the Blackfriars with-
out the Stable Green Port, had an extensive burying-ground,
where great numbers of those who died of the plague in after
years were buried. In 1527, Jeremiah Russell and John Kennedy
were burned alive in Glasgow for adhering to the principles of the
Reformation. Gavin Dunbar, Archbishop of Glasgow, and the
Bishops of Dunkeld, Brechin, and Dunblane, &c. were present at
the trial, and agreed to the sentence, which was read in the me-
tropolitan church on the last day of February.
The revenues which had been granted from time to time in sup-
port of the splendour of the see of Glasgow were very great. The
archbishops were lords of the lordships of the royalty and baro-
nies of Glasgow ; besides, there were eighteen baronies of land
which belonged to them within the sheriffdoms of Lanark, Dum-
barton, Ayr, Renfrew, Peebles, Selkirk, Roxburgh, Dumfries, and
the stewartry of Annandale, including 240 parishes. There was
also a large estate in Cumberland within their jurisdiction, which
was named of old the Spiritual Dukedom. When the see was made
archiepiscopal, jurisdiction was given over the Bishops of Gallo-
way, Argyle, and the Isles. At the Reformation in 1560, Arch-
GLASGOW. 109
bishop Beaton retired to France, taking with him all the relics,
documents, and plate which pertained to the see and the arch-
bishoprick. Since the renovation of the see, there have been twen-'
ty-six Roman Catholic bishops ; the first, John Achaius, elected
in 1129, and the last, George Carmichael, in 14W3, and four
Roman Catholic archbishops, the first, Robert Blackadder, in
1488, and the last, James Beaton, in 1551. From the Reforma-
tion till the Revolution, the church in Glasgow was governed by
fourteen Protestant archbishops, the first, James Boyd, elected in
1572, and the last, John Paterson, in 1687.
State of Society, fyc. — Prior to the Reformation, the inhabitants
of this city and neighbourhood were governed by churchmen, who
kept them in a state of ignorance and superstition truly deplorable.
At that period, the principles of the glorious Reformation began
to be acknowledged, when it pleased God to raise up powerful
agents in Edinburgh and Glasgow in the persons of Knox and
Melville. In 1560, when the Reformation took place, and for a
considerable time after, the great body of the people retained their
fierce and sanguinary disposition. This is strikingly marked by
their being constantly armed : even the ministers in the pulpit were
accoutred. The number of murders, cases of incest, and other
criminal acts, turned over to the censure of the church, but too
plainly point out the depraved character of the people.
In 1546, Glasgow, although only the eleventh town in Scot-
land, in point of trade and importance, had some shipping ; the
privy-council of Scotland having issued an order, that vessels be-
longing to Glasgow should not annoy those belonging to Henry
VIII. of England, the Queen's uncle.
In 1556, during the minority of Mary Queen of Scots, James
Hamilton, Earl of Arran, an ancestor of the noble house of Ha-
milton, the second person in the kingdom, and nearest heir to the
throne after Mary, was appointed Regent. This appointment hav-
ing been opposed by the Earl of Lennox, and the Queen Dowager,
an engagement took place at the Butts, where the weaponschaws
used to be held, (now the site of the Infantry Barracks.) The ci-
tizens taking part with Lennox, the Regent was defeated, which
so exasperated him, that, rallying his troops, he entered the town,
and gave it up to pillage ; which was so effectually done, that the
very doors and windows of the houses were destroyed.
In 1566, Henry Darnley, husband of Mary Queen of Scots,
came to this city on a visit to his father, who resided in a house
on the east side of Limmerfield, a little south from the new Baro-
110 LANARKSHIRE.
ny Church, a part of the south wall of which is still preserved. As
the King was taken ill, the Queen came from Stirling to see him
in this house, where she resided till he was so far recovered as to
be removed to Edinburgh, in the neighbourhood of which he was
soon after murdered. On 30th September 1578, Robert Stew-
art Earl of Lennox, the immediate successor of Matthew, the fa-
ther of Henry Darnley, was entered a burgess, and in the same
year elected Provost of Glasgow.
In 1581, the King appointed Mr Robert Montgomery, minis-
ter of Stirling, to be Archbishop of Glasgow, with the understand-
ing that he was to confer the title of hereditary lords of the Bi-
shop's Castle on the Lennox family, with all the emoluments per-
taining thereto, for the paltry consideration of L. 1000 Scots, some
horse corn, and poultry. The people, considering the archbishop
erroneous in doctrine and loose in morals, opposed his entry, by
getting Mr Howie to preach at the time he was to be inducted.
Sir Matthew Stewart of Minto, Provost of Glasgow, being desir-
ous of obeying the King's commands, went to the church and de-
sired Mr Howie to break off his sermon, which refusing, the pro-
vost pulled him out of the pulpit. In the struggle some hair was
drawn out of Mr Howie's beard, several of his teeth knocked out,
and his blood shed. On this Mr Howie denounced the judgment
of God on Sir Matthew, and his family. M'Ure, in his History of
Glasgow, says, that in less than seventy years, this opulent family
was so reduced that they subsisted by charity. The church con-
sidering the transaction with the Lennox family illegal and dis-
graceful, the archbishop was forced to resign the benefice. He
afterwards became minister of Symington, and latterly of Stewar-
ton in Ayrshire, where he died. At this period the church disci-
pline was severe. On 16th August 1587, the kirk-session ap-
pointed harlots to be carted through the town, ducked in Clyde,
and put in the jugs at the cross, on a market day. The punish-
ment for adultery was to appear six Sabbaths on the cockstool at
the pillar, bare-footed and bare-legged, in sackcloth, then to be
carted through the town, and ducked in Clyde from a pulley fixed
on the bridge." The release from excommunication was as fol-
lows : " A man excommunicated for relapse in adultery, was to pass
from his dwelling-house to the Hie Kirk, six Sundays, at six in the
morning at the first bell, conveyed by two of the elders or deacons,
or any other two honest men, and to stand at the kirk door bare-
footed, and bare-legged, in sackcloth, with a white wand in his
hand, bare-headed till after the reading of the text ; in the same
GLASGOW. 1 1 1
manner to repair to the pillar till the sermon was ended, and then
to go out to the door again, and stand there till the congregation
pass from the kirk, and after that he is released."
The presbytery admonished their ministers to be diligent in
their studies, grave in their apparel, and not vain with long ruffles,
and gaudy toys in their clothes. The brethren (Presbytery) inter-
pret " the Sabbath to be from sun to sun ; no work to be done be-
tween light and light, in winter, and between sun and sun in sum-
mer." Subsequently, the brethren declared " the Sabbath to be from
twelve on Saturday night till twelve on Sabbath night." The session
directed that the drum should go through the town, to intimate that
there must be no bickerings or plays on Sundays, either by old or
young. Games, golfs, bowls, &c. were forbidden on Sundays ;
and further, that no person go to Ruglen to see plays on Sundays.
Parents who had bairns to be baptized were to repeat the Com-
mandments distinctly, articles of faith, and the Lord's Prayer, or be
declared ignorant, and some godly person to present their bairn ;
with farther punishment, as the kirk shall think fit. That no pro-
clamation of banns be made without the consent of parents ; per-
sons who cannot say the commandments were declared to be un-
worthy of marriage. Because of the many inconveniences by mar-
riages on Sundays before noon, " the session enact that none be
made till the afternoon."
In 1588, the kirk-session appointed some ash-trees in the Hie
Kirk yard to be cut down, to make forms for the folk to sit on in
the kirk; women were not to sit upon the forms, but to bring stools
with them. Intimation was made, that "no woman, married or un-
married, should come within the kirk door to preachings or prayers
with their plaids about their heads, neither to lie down in the kirk
on their face in time of prayer ; with certification, that their plaids
be drawn down, or they be raised by the beadle. The beadles
were to have staffs for keeping quietness in the kirk, and comely
order; for each marriage they were to get 4d., and 2d. for each
baptism. All this for ringing the bell and rowing up the knock,
and for setting the forms in the Hie Kirk, and in the Blackfriars
Kirk, and also the New Kirk. The kirk beadles were to allow none
to enter the steeple to trouble the knock and bell there, but to
keep the knock going at all times, and the five hours bell in the morn -
ing, and eight hours bell at even, and that for a long space. The
minister gave the dead bellman a merk to buy a book, to enter
the names of the dead with their age."
" On 26th December 1588, the magistrates, considering the
112 LANARKSHIRE.
manifold blasphemies and evil words spoken by sundry women,
direct the master of works to erect jugs, three or four steps up,
that they may not be torn down. The town-council enacted that
no market be kept on Sundays, and that persons blaspheming and
swearing shall be punished according to law. Walter Prior of
Blantyre, tacksman of the teinds of the parsonage of Glasgow,
provided the elements for the communion, he was spoken to, to pro-
vide a hogshead of good wine. The time of convening on the Sun-
days of the communion was four o'clock in the morning. The
collectors assembled on these occasions in the Hie Kirk, at three
o'clock in the morning. At that period the town-council enacted
that wine shall not be sold dearer than 18 pennies Scots, for a
Scotch pint, and ale not to exceed 4 pennies Scotch, = one-third
of a penny Sterling for two imperial quarts."
" On 7th October 1589, there were six lepers in the Lepers'
House at the Gorbals end of the bridge, viz. Andrew Lawson,
merchant ; Steven Gilmour, cordiner ; Robert Bogle, son of Pa-
trick Bogle; Patrick Brittal, tailor; John Thomson, tailor; and
Daniel Cunningham, tinker."
For a considerable time previous to 1604, very serious differen-
ces had arisen between the merchants and trades' ranks, regarding
precedency ; to put an end to which, and to restore peace in the
burgh, a submission was entered into on 10th November 1604,
which led to the letter of guildry. On 16th February 1605, at a
meeting in the Council- House, Sir George Elphinston of Blyths-
wood, provost, informed the meeting that the provost, bailies,
and council being ripely advised, understanding the same first to
redound to the honour of God, common weal of this burgh, have
accepted, received, and admitted the said letter of guildry, and in,
token thereof have subscribed the same.
On 3d March 1608, the kirk-session gave intimation, that the
Laird of Minto, a late provost, was accused of a breach of chastity.
The session considering his age and the station he held in the town
pass him with a reprimand.
At this period the funds of the corporation must have been very
low. At a meeting of the town-council, on 9th April 1609, the pro-
vost informed the council, that the magistrates had been charged
the sum of 100 punds, by the clerk register, for the book called the
" Regium Majestatem," that they were in danger of horning for the
same, and that, as the town was not stented, and as the council
could not advance the money, (L. 8, 6s. 8d. Sterling,) he had bor-
rowed it from William Burn, merchant burgess.
GLASGOW. 113
It would appear that the letter of guildry had only removed
the burghal discontent, as on 19th May 1609, the provost inform-
ed the council, that the Earl cf Glencairn, and the Lord Sempil,
with their friends, were to be in this town on Monday next, conform
to the ordinance of the secret council, for the purpose of compro-
mising their deadly feuds ; " therefore for eschewing of all incon-
veniences of trouble which may happen, (which God forbid,) the
council directed that the number of forty persons, with one of the
bailies, and the whole council, should attend upon the provost,
and that one of the other two bailies, and threescore men, should
attend at the lodgings of the said noblemen, all the foresaid per-
sons to have long weapons, and swords, and to be in readiness to
accompany and convoy the said noblemen, with their friends,
in and out, in making their reconciliation, conform to the ordinance
of the secret council, and the drum to pass through the town, to
advertise and warn all the inhabitants, to be in readiness with
their arms foresaid, and to meet the provost and the bailies on
Monday next, at seven hours on the green, that the foresaid num-
ber of persons may be chosen, and that under the penalty of L. 5."
On 19th August following, the council granted a warrant to John
Bernit, master of works, for 41 punds, 10s. as the expenses of wine
and confections spent at the cross, upon the 5th day of July, the
King's day, my Lord Bishop of Glasgow being present, with sun-
dry other honourable men.
On 6th October 1610, the town-council enacted, that there
should be no middings (dunghills) on the fore streets, nor in the
flesh-market, meal-market, or other market of this burgh, under
the penalty of 13s. 4d. and that no timber lie on the High Street,
above year and day, nor any turf, turf stakes, or lint, be dried upon
the High Street, under the penalty of 13s. 4d, and that the fruit,
kail, and onion crammies, stand betwixt the gutter and the house,
and that each stand and flake be an ell in length and breadth.
The council at the same time ordained, that the lepers of the
hospital should go only upon the causewayside, near the gutter,
and should have " clapperis," and a cloth upon their mouth and
face, and should stand afar off while they receive alms, under the
penalty of being banished from the town and hospital.
On 22d December 1613, mortality bills were directed to be
made in the city for the first time.
In 1635, the magistrates purchased from the Earl of Glencairn,
the manse of the prebendary of Cambuslang in the Drygate, which
they fitted up as a house of correction for dissolute women, and
114 LANARKSHIRE.
such was the vigilance of the kirk-session, that they directed the
women to be whipped every 'day during pleasure.
The Laigh Kirk steeple was built in 1638. The Tron or pub-
lic weights were kept in the under part of this steeple for a num-
ber of years; hence the name Tron. The dues of the tron, which
formerly belonged to the Archbishop, were conveyed to the Col-
lege, which still draws a small sum from the town in lieu of them.
The council agreed to license Duncan Birnet to teach music
within the burgh, provided he takes no more " skolleges fra the
bairns than James Sanderis was allowed. " They authorized the
master of work now in Flanders, to purchase for the town's use
fifty muskets with " stalfis and bandeleiris," and fifty pikes. On
8th September they ordered " three score young men to be elected
and trained to handle arms, the driller to have for his pains 40
shillings each day for his coming out of Edinburgh, aye until he
be discharged, with his horse hire hame and afield."
On 25th September 1 638, the principal and regents of the Col-
lege petitioned the town-council for help to build the new work
within the said College. The council " condescended and agreed
to give to the building of the said work 1000 merks when the work
is going on, and another 1000 merks to buy books to the library,
whenever they buy their books to make a library to the said Col-
lege. The money to be advanced by the provost and bailies, who
may be in office at the time."
" On 8th October 1638, the provost, bailies, and council, un-
derstanding that his sacred Majesty has been graciously pleased
to indict a general free assembly to be holden in this city the 21st
November next, to which it is expected that a great number of
noblemen, commissioners from presbyteries, and other commis-
sioners will repair hither, therefore it is statuted and ordained,
that no burgess or inhabitant within this burgh shall set, or pro-
mise to set, for rent or otherwise, or give to any friend any house,
chamber, or stable, until they first acquaint them therewith, that
the provost, bailies, and council may give a license thereto, to the
end that every one may be lodged according to their quality and
ability in this city, under the pain of 100 punds, and imprison-
ment of their persons during the magistrates' will. And likewise,
that those give obedience to this who are appointed to survey the
houses within the city, and also that no inhabitant expect more
rent for their houses, chambers, beds, and stables than shall be
appointed by the said provost, bailies, and council, and ordains the
pLASGOW. 115
same to be intimated through the town by sound of drum, that no
person may plead ignorance."
On 3d November, the town-council, understanding that a great
number of people will convene within this burgh at the ensuing
assembly, they statuted and ordained, that there be a guard of
men kept through the day, and a watch at night, under the direc-
tion of the provost and bailies. On the 18th, the treasurer was
directed to purchase for the town's use 100 muskets with " stalfis
and bandeleiris," 30 pikes, 4 cwt. of powder, and 4 cwt. of match.
On 21st November this famous assembly met in the nave of the
Cathedral. During the preceding year, Laud, Archbishop of Can-
terbury, had ordered a service-book to be read in the Scotch
churches, which the people thought savoured of the mass. This
innovation afforded a fit opportunity for the friends of the Presby-
terian form to exert themselves in the cause ; they therefore with
great assiduity procured a numerous attendance at this assembly.
The celebrated Marquis of Hamilton was Lord High Commis-
sioner. The venerable Mr John Bell, minister of the Tron Church
of Glasgow, preached, after which Mr Alexander Henderson was
elected Moderator. The assembly was attended by a great propor-
tion of the nobility and other persons of rank and consideration in
Scotland. The Presbyterian party carried every thing their own way.
The Commissioner protested and dissolved the assembly. After
his Grace had departed, the assembly held twenty-six diets, when
they decreed, 1st, The abjuration of Episcopacy; 2e?, The abo-
lishing of the service-books and the high commission ; 3d, The
proceedings of the six preceding assemblies during Episcopacy
were declared null and void ; 4th9 They deposed and excommuni-
cated the Archbishops of St Andrews and Glasgow, and the Bi-
shops of Galloway, Brechin, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Ross, Argyle,
and Dunblane, and a number of other clergymen ; 5th, The Co-
venant being approved of, was ordered to be signed by all ranks,
under pain of excommunication ; and, Gth, Churchmen were in-
capacitated from holding any place in Parliament.
On 19th March 1640, intimation was made by the session, that
all masters of families should give an account of those in their fa-
milies who have not the Ten Commandments, the Lord's Prayer,
Creed, &c. and that every family should have prayers and psalms
morning and evening ; some of the fittest men to assist the elders
in promoting this work. On 8th January in the following year, the
kirk -session, in pursuance of an act of Assembly held at Aberdeen,
enacted that the magistrates should cause all monuments of ido-
116 LANARKSHIRE.
latry to be taken down and destroyed, viz. all superstitious pictures,
crucifixes, &c. both in private houses and in the Hie Kirk. Next
day it was reported that they found only three that could be cal-
led so, viz. the five wounds of Christ, the Holy Lamb, and a Pro-
nobis.
On the 19th June 1641, the council directed the treasurer to
pay Mr Gavin Forsyth 162 punds for his bygone services in bap-
tizing infants within this city, and visiting the sick in the time of
the town's necessity, and for preaching God's word on Tuesdays.
On 1st December, the council enacted that some Holland cloth,
and Scotch linen cloth, with some plaids, as also two gallons of
aqua vitce, and four half-barrels of herring, be sent as a present to
Mr Webb, servant to the Duke of Lennox, as a testimony of the
town's thankfulness to him for the pains he took in the town's bu-
siness. The said day the Marquis of Argyle exhibited in presence
of the town-council, a commission from the secret-council anent
the transporting of 5000 men to Ireland, desiring the council to
provide boats and barques for their transport. After much rea-
soning, it was thought fit that the freight of each soldier should
be 1 pund, 10s., and that the soldiers and boatmen should have 6s.
in the day for victuals during the time they are at sea ; the whole
to be paid by the community.
On 13th April 1649, parochial sessions were first appointed ;
but as these clerical courts assumed the power of censuring the
measures of Government, his Majesty, Charles II. put them down
by royal proclamation, and it was not till April 1662 that the legal
restriction was removed. On 6th July 1649, the kirk session inti-
mated that any person who knows any point of witchcraft or sorcery
against any one in this burgh, shall delate the same to some of the
ministers or magistrates.
Oliver Cromwell having on 3d September 1650, got possession
of Edinburgh, marched to Glasgow, and took up his lodgings and
held his levees in Silver Craigs House, on the east side of the
Saltmarket, nearly opposite the Bridgegate.
" Cromwell having learned that Mr Patrick Gillespie, minister of
the Outer High Church, had the chief sway in ecclesiastical affairs,
sent for him, and after a long conference, gave him a prayer. On
the following Sunday he went in state to the Cathedral Church.
Mr Zachary Boyd, the distinguished paraph rast, having been ap-
pointed to preach, took occasion to inveigh against Cromwell, on
which Thurlow, his secretary, said he would pistol the scoundrel.
« No, no,' said the General, e we will manage him in his own way.'
GLASGOW. 117
Having asked the minister to dine with him, Oliver concluded the
entertainment with prayer, which it is*' said lasted three hours.
On 16th June 1660, the session having taken into their con-
sideration the Lord's merciful providence in returning the King's
majesty to his throne and government, do judge it their duty to set
apart some time for public thanksgiving to God for the same. The
Restoration took place on 29th May, and such was the persecuting
spirit of the times, that on 14th July following, the privy-council
sent an order to the magistrates of Glasgow, to desire Principal
Gillespie to appear before them, which he did on the 17th Au-
gust, when, for the favour he had shown to Cromwell, he was sent
to Edinburgh jail, and was afterwards imprisoned in the Bass Island,
along with a number of ministers. After a period of confinement,
the Principal was brought before Parliament and liberated.
Soon after the Restoration, an attempt was made to force Epis-
copacy on the people of Scotland, and nowhere was this attempt
more opposed than in Glasgow, where the great body of the people
were Covenanters. The King having appointed Mr James Sharp,
minister of Crail, to be Archbishop of St Andrews ; and Mr An-
drew Fairfowl, minister of Dunse, to be Archbishop of Glasgow ;
and two other ministers to be bishops, they were ordained in Lon-
don, and on 10th April 1662, arrived in Edinburgh. The clergy
and laity of Glasgow, with a few exceptions, having refused to con-
form to Episcopacy, the Earl of Middleton, and a committee of
the privy-council, came to Glasgow on 26th September 1662.
The council met in the fore-hall of the college, when, after the usual
preliminaries, Lord Middleton informed the committee, that the
archbishop desired the royal order for uniformity to be enforced.
This was agreed to by all but Lord Lee, who assured the com-
mittee that the enforcement of that order would desolate the coun-
try. In the face of this it was enforced, when upwards of 400
ministers were turned out, and took leave of their flocks in one
day, among whom were five belonging to Glasgow, viz. Prin-
cipal Gillespie, Messrs Robert Macward, John Carstairs, Ralph
Rogers, and Donald Cargill. Early in 1678, the committee of
council returned to Glasgow, where they remained ten days. They
sat on Sunday during divine service, administering a bond for pre-
venting all intercourse with the exiled ministers ; and such was the
terror which accompanied their proceedings, that Provost Camp-
bell, Bailies Johnston, Campbell, Colquhoun, and others, to the
number of 1 53 persons, signed the obnoxious bond. The council,
LANARK. I
118 LANARKSHIRE.
the better to enforce their arbitrary measures, summoned to their
aid some of the chieftains and clans, afterwards designated the
Highland Host. These rapacious mountaineers, unaccustomed to
discrimination, plundered the inhabitants of every thing they could
lay their hands on. Under such an order of things, emigration to
Holland or Geneva was the only safe alternative. On 2d Febru-
ary following, the host left Glasgow for Ayrshire, and on their re-
turn in small detachments, loaded with plunder, they were attack-
ed by the students and other young men of the town, who recol-
lecting their former practices, relieved them of their burthens, and
showed them the way to the Highlands through the West Port.
On 17th August 1669, the Presbytery of Glasgow directed that
the day of preparation before the communion should be a day of
fasting and humiliation. During the troubles in the latter end of
the reign of Charles I. and the greater part of the reign of Charles
II. the communion was but seldom administered in Glasgow, and
not at all in the year 1646-47-51-52-53-58 and 59. From 1660 to
1676, the communion was occasionally given once in the year; and
from 1693 till the Union in 1707, it was regularly given once a-
year ; and it has almost uniformly been given twice a-year since
that period.
In 1677, a great fire took place in Glasgow, when 130 houses
and shops were destroyed. In 1684, a number of Covenanters
were hanged in Glasgow, and their heads stuck on pikes on the
east side of the jail. Their bodies were buried at the north side
of the Cathedral Church, near where a stone with an inscription is
placed, and still remains in the wall.
In 1689, on the abdication of James II., the city of Glasgow
raised a regiment of 500 rank and file, and sent them to Edin-
burgh, under the command of the Earl of Argyle, to guard the
Covenanters. This regiment then got the name of the Scotch
Cameronians, and subsequently the 26th Regiment of Foot. Dur-
ing this year the magistrates were elected by a poll vote of the
burgesses; but in the succeeding year, an act of William and
Mary empowered the magistrates and council to elect themselves.
On 4th June 1690, the Presbytery of Glasgow, considering that
" this is the first diet after the re-establishment of the Presbyterian
form of church government," directed Mr Joseph Drew to go to
Stirling, and preach to the people of Glasgow, who had been
driven there on account of the troubled state of the kingdom. On
2d May 1695, an act was read from the pulpits in the city, against
buying or selling things on the Sabbath, also against feeding horses
GLASGOW. 119
in the fields, or hiring horses to ride on the Sabbath, except in
cases of necessity, of which the magistrates are to be made ac-
quainted. The ancient and laudable custom of elders visiting the
families once a quarter was revived.
On 12th March 1698, the magistrates of Glasgow granted an
allowance to the jailor for keeping warlocks and witches imprison-
ed in the tolbooth, by order of the Lords Commissioners of Jus-
ticiary. The elders and deacons, two and two, were enjoined to
search the change-houses in their proportions on the Saturday
nights at ten o'clock, and to delate the drinkers and houses to the
magistrates.
In 1707, the union with England was effected. This measure
was so inimical to the citizens of Glasgow, that the magistrates
found it necessary to prohibit more than three persons from as-
sembling together on the streets after sunset.
In 1715, when the Rebellion broke out under the Earl of Marr,
the city of Glasgow raised a regiment of 600 men at their own ex-
pense, who marched to Stirling under the command of Colonel
Aird, the late provost, and joined the King's forces.
In 1717, the Convention of Royal Burghs passed an act pro-
hibiting persons from trading in Glasgow, unless they resided eight
months of the year within it.
On llth November 1725, the kirk-session enacted, that the
elders and deacons should go through their proportions, and take
notice of all young women who keep chambers alone, especially
those suspected of lightness, and warn them that they will be taken
notice of, and advise them to get honest men, or take themselves
to service.
In 1736, the foundation stone of the Town-hall, and the first
Assembly Rooms, was laid by Provost Coulter. The hall and As-
sembly Rooms were opened in 1740. Although Deacon Corse
was the master mason, his foreman, the celebrated Mungo Nai-
smith, carried on the work, and carved the caricature heads on the
key stones of the arches of the arcade, so justly admired. Till the
Assembly Rooms were opened in 1740, the Glasgow assemblies
were held in the Merchant's Hall, Bridgegate. These assemblies
were usually well attended. The Duchess of Douglas, for several
years, patronized them.
The Rebellion of 1745 afforded the citizens of Glasgow an op-
portunity of showing their loyalty to the Government, by raising
two regiments of 600 men each, at their own expense. On the
news of the American war reaching Glasgow, the magistrates cal-
/
120 LANARKSHIRE,
led a public meeting, when resolutions were entered into, to sup-
port the Government. A corps of 1000 rank and file, afterwards
the 83d Regiment of Foot, was raised at an expense of about
L. 10,000.* To give countenance to recruiting, and to show their
determination to oppose the Americans, above 500 of the princi-
pal inhabitants formed, as it were, a recruiting party. Mr John
Wardrop, a Virginia merchant, beat a drum ; Mr James Finlay,
father to Mr Kirkman Finlay of Castle Toward, played the bagpipe;
while other eminent merchants and citizens performed the duty of
fifers, or carried broad swords, colours, or other warlike ensigns. Mr
Cunningham of Lainshaw, Mr Speirs of Elderslie, and others,
hired their ships as transports ; but Mr Glassford of Dugaldston,
disapproving of the warlike preparations, laid up his ships in Port-
Glasgow harbour.
In 1787, the cotton manufacturers proposed to reduce the price
of weaving, on which a number of weavers stopt work, and, after
parading the streets on 3d September, burned and destroyed a
number of webs in the Drygate and Calton. Provost Riddell cal-
led out the military, under the command of Colonel Kellet, when
the riot act was read ; the mob refusing to disperse, three men
were killed near the Hangman's Brae, (north end of Barrack Street,)
and several wounded.
The revolutionary principles of France had made such rapid
progress in this country during 1793-4, that an Act of Parliament
was passed, authorizing his Majesty to accept the military services
of such of his loyal subjects, as chose to enrol themselves as volun-
teers, for defence of our inestimable constitution. The necessary
arrangements had no sooner been made, than a number of the ci-
tizens of Glasgow offered their services to Government, which were
immediately accepted. During the war there were thirteen vo-
lunteer corps raised, and when these were disbanded, there were
five regiments of local militia formed.
In 1799 and 1800, the failure of the crops was so great, that
provisions could not be got through the usual channels. The cor-
poratiofc, and a number of benevolent individuals, entered into a
subscription, and purchased grain for the supply of the working-
classes. The purchases amounted to L. 117,500. On the re-
turn of plenty the concern was wound up, which showed a loss of
* The Trades- House, the fourteen incorporated trades, and individual members,
subscribed L. 5025 towards the expenses of the regiment. The corporation of the
city voted an address to his Majesty, containing the tender of a regiment ; and the
London Gazette, January 19, 1778, states, that the Hon. Robert Donald, Lord Pro-
vost, and Duncan Niven, Esq. Convener of the Trades- House, who presented the ad-
dress, were most graciously received, and had the honour to kiss bis Majesty's hand.
GLASGOW. 121
L. 15,000. As a large proportion of this came from the corpora-
tion funds, a bill was brought into Parliament, for taxing the in-
habitants for a part of the loss ; but it was so vehemently opposed,
that the magistrates withdrew it.
In the latter end of 1816, and beginning of 1817, the stagna-
tion of trade was such, that the working-classes in the city and
suburbs could not find employment. The distress of the workers
was so great, that it was found necessary to raise money for their
relief by voluntary subscriptions. From a large sum raised, the
committee distributed L. 9653, 6s. 2d. among 23,130 persons.
In 1818, the lower classes of this city and suburbs were severely
afflicted with typhus fever. No sooner had the disease made pro-
gress than L. 6626, 14s. Id. was raised for the relief of the afflict-
ed sufferers by voluntary contribution. The accommodation in
the Royal Infirmary being quite inadequate for the number of fe-
ver patients, the subscribers built a temporary fever hospital at
Spring Gardens, fitted to contain upwards of 200 beds. The hos-
pital was opened on 30th March 1818, and closed on 12th July
1819. Between these periods 1929 patients were admitted. The
greatest number at one time was 212, and the deaths amounted to
171. During the period of the disease, upwards of 5000 apart-
ments in the city and suburbs were fumigated, 600 lodging-houses
were examined, infected bedding was burned, and the owners sup-
plied with new bedding.
In 1819, the working-classes were again thrown into great distress
from want of employment. The seeds of discontent which had
been widely sown took deep root in this part of the country, and
ended in what has been emphatically called Radicalism. At this
alarming crisis, when thousands of workers paraded the streets, de-
manding employment or bread, upwards of 600 persons were al-
most instantly employed at spade work, or breaking stones for the
roads. Exclusive of the exertions of the authorities, and individuals
in the suburbs, the magistrates of Glasgow simultaneously employed
upwards of 340 weavers at spade work in the green, nearly the whole
of whom remained for upwards of four months under the direction
of Dr Cleland ; audit is only justice to those individuals to say, that
under his kind usage and vigilant superintendence, not one of them
left their work to attend political meetings in the Green, although
thousands marched past them with radical ensigns, accompanied by
well-dressed females carrying caps of liberty. The distress and
dissatisfaction continued during the greater part of 1820, when
large distributions of clothing, meal, and coals were given to
122 LANARKSHIRE.
such persons as could not find employment. The distress was
such that 2040 heads of families were under the necessity of
pawning 7380 articles, on which they received L. 739, 5s. 6d.
Of the heads of families 1943 were Scotch, and 97 English,
Irish, or foreigners ; 1372 had never applied for nor received
charity of any description ; 474 received occasional aid from the
committee, and 194 were paupers. On the 30th August of that
year, James Wilson was hanged and beheaded for high treason.
In August 1822, when George IV. visited Edinburgh, the cor-
poration of this city and the Merchants and Trades Houses sent de-
putations with splendid equipages, and presented loyal addresses
to his Majesty.
Another period of mercantile distress occurred in 1826, and from
8th April of that year till 31st October 1827, about L. 9000 were
laid out for the amelioration of the working-classes, and from 12th
March till 20th October 1829, there was expended on work for
operatives the sum of L. 2950.
Bills of Mortality. — Bills of mortality are understood to contain
a list of births, marriages and deaths, from parochial registers, at
stated periods, in connection with the population.
Glasgow Bills of Mortality. — As the Glasgow bills of mortali-
ty, from which the probability of human life in large towns, and
other important results may be deduced, have met with more than
ordinary approbation from political inquirers, we think it right to
give a detailed account of the manner in which those bills have
been prepared. The parochial register of births in Glasgow be-
ing so defective that no reliance could be placed on it, Dr Cle-
land, who had hitherto taken the whole charge of the bills, obtained
the necessary information in the following manner : On the 6th of
December 1829, he addressed a letter to each of the seventy-five
clergymen and lay-pastors in the city and suburbs, who baptize
children, requesting to be favoured with returns of the numbers
they might baptize from the 14th of December 1829, to the 15th
of December 1830, both days inclusive, being the year previous to
the last Government census. The letter was accompanied by a
book in which the sexes and the particular parishes in which the
parents resided were to be inserted. He also requested the vari-
ous societies of Baptists, the society of Friends, and Jews, and others
who do not dispense the ordinance of baptism to infants, to favour
him with the above particulars, relative to children born to mem-
bers of their societies ; and in due time he had the satisfaction of re-
GLASGOW. J23
ceiving returns from the whole, as also an account of the children
of parent?, who, while disapproving of infant baptism, did not be-
long to any religious society. It appeared that in the city and su-
burbs, there were 6397 children baptized or born to Baptists, &c.
and of that number there were only 3225 inserted in the parochial
registers, leaving unregistered 3172.
Although in Scotland there is no marriage act as in England,
restricting the solemnization of marriages to clergymen of the Es-
tablished Church, the ordinance can only be regularly celebrated
by persons duly called to the pastoral office, and not until a certi-
ficate of the proclamation of banns has been produced. Persons
irregularly married are deprived of the privileges of the church,
till they appear before the kirk-session, acknowledge their fault,
and be reponed. From this circumstance, in connection with the
solicitude of the female and her friends, to have the marriage re-
gistered, the marriage register of Glasgow and its suburbs may be
held as correct for all statistical purposes.
The deaths are ascertained by the number of burials. The
burying-grounds in the city and suburbs are placed under the
management of fourteen wardens. These officers, who attend
every funeral, enter in a memorandum book at the grave, the name,
age, and designation of the person buried, along with the amount
of fee received, and the name of the undertaker. Having taken
these, and other particulars, the wardens afterwards enter the
whole in a book classified conformably to a printed schedule, drawn
up by Dr Cleland. At the end of the year they furnish him with
an abstract from their books, and it is from a combination of these
abstracts that he ascertains the number of deaths at the various
ages. The abstract includes still-born children, and the deaths of
Jews, and members of the Society of Friends, who have separate
burying places.
Dr Cleland having been appointed to take the sole charge of
conducting the enumeration and classification of the inhabitants of
the city of Glasgow and suburbs, for the Government census of
1831, he employed twelve parochial beadles, nineteen mercantile
clerks, and one superintendent of police, to take the lists. Before
the books were prepared, an advertisement was inserted in the
Glasgow newspapers, requesting the inhabitants to favour him with
their suggestions as to classification, and before the list-takers
commenced their operations, bills were posted upon the public
'.
124 LANARKSHIRE.
places and dwelling-houses of the city, informing the inhabitants
of the nature of the inquiries, and that they had no reference to
taxes, and moreover, that non-compliance, or giving a false return,
subjected them to a fine. When the books were returned to him,
the public, through the medium of the press, were requested to
call at an office appointed for the purpose, and to correct any
omission or error which might have been made in their returns.
The list-takers having made oath before the Lord Provost, that
the name of every householder in the district assigned to them,
his, or her age, profession, religion, country, &c. had been faith-
fully entered in a book, and a similar description of his or her fa-
mily taken down, he proceeded to classification, and formed tables
and abstracts for each parish, containing numerous details not re-
quired for the Government digest.
Glasgow Bill of Mortality for 1830. — A general list of births,
baptisms, marriages, and burials, within the ten parishes of the
royalty, and the suburban parishes of Barony and Gorbals.
Births and Baptisms. Males, Females. Total.
Returns from clergymen and lay pastors, - 3281 3116 6397
Add still-born from do. - - 246 225 471
Total, 3527 3341 6868
Of this number there were registered only, - 1678 1547 3225
Number unregistered, exclusive of still-born, - 1603 1569 3172*
The children were baptised as follows, viz.
By clergymen of the Church of Scotland, 3123
By do. of the Secession church, . ' - - - 664
By do. of the Relief church, 671
By do. of the Roman Catholic church, - - - 915
By do. of the Scotch Episcopal church, Independents, Methodists, and
other denominations, including births among Baptists, Society of
Friends, Jews, &c. - - ; - -..-.- - - 1024
Total, 6397
Marriages engrossed in the registers of the City, Barony, and
Gorbals: — In the city, 857; Barony, 691; Gorbals, 371; to-
tal, 1919.
Burials engrossed in the registers of the City, Barony, and
Gorbals burying grounds : —
* While the great importance of accurate parochial registers is admitted by all, it
is astonishing how little they have been attended to in this country. In Edinburgh,
the metropolis of Scotland, a city distinguished for its erudition, and for its nume-
rous and valuable institutions, the baptismal register is miserably defective. It ap-
pears from a printed report of a Committee of the Town- Council of that city, of date,
20th February 1835, that in 1834, the baptismal register for the thirteen parishes
contained only the names of four hundred and eighty children.
GLASGOW.
125
Of -whom have died.
Matt*.
Females.
Total.
Males.
Females.
Total.
January
273
268
541
Still-born,
m
246
225
471
February,
226
223
449
under one
year,
463
414
877
March,
218
207
425
1 and under 2,
316
307
623
April,
208
184
392
2
5,
263
237
500
May,
185
175
360
5
10,
134
119
253
June,
200
178
378
10
20,
144
132
276
July,
194
182
376
20
30,
189
145
334
August,
232
206
438
30
40,
169
144
313
September,
240
229
469
40
50,
184
164
348
October,
236
184
420
50
60,
177
175
352
November,
234
189
423
60
70,
168
171
339
December,
255
259
514
70
75,
109
102
211
.
75
80,
55
58
113
Total,
2701
2484
5185
80
85,
48
48
96
85
90,
24
26
50
90
95,
9
10
19
95
100,
3
6
9
104
0
]
1
Total, 2701 2484
5185
Ages of persons in Glasgow, and in the Suburban Parishes of
Barony and Gorbals, in 1830.
Under
Five to
Ten to
Fifteen to
Twenty to
Thirty to
Forty to
Five.
Ten.
Fifteen.
Twenty.
Thirty.
Forty.
fifty.
Males,
15422
13127
10491
8489
15177
12179
8685
Females,
14855
12580
10720
12256
23008
14240
9329
Total, 30277
25707
21211
20745
38185
26419 18014
Fifty to Sixty to Seventy to Eighty to Ninety to a 100 and Total.
Sixty. Seventy. Eighty. Ninety. hundred, upwards.
Males, 5549 3228 1090 260 26 1 93724
Females, 6099 3692 1502 385 32 4 108702
Total,
11648
6920
2592
645
58
202426
About twenty years ago, the causes of death were announced
yearly in a periodical along with the gross number of burials, but
as no confidence could be placed in such statements, Dr Cle-
land has since that period declined to publish a list of diseases ;
but, being aware that, if a correct list could be obtained at the cen-
sus of 1831, when the population, births, marriages, and deaths,
were ascertained, it would be very beneficial in a medical point of
view, he addressed letters to upwards of 130 medical gentlemen,
in the city, and suburbs, requesting that they would favour him
with a return of the diseases of which their patients died during
the period in which he had requested the clergymen to give him
a note of baptisms. As he only succeeded with a small portion
of the members of faculty, the attempt became fruitless, and in
all probability any future attempt will be unsuccessful, until a com-
pulsory act of the legislature regarding parochial registers for births,
marriages, and deaths, be obtained. Dr Cleland having also been
126 LANARKSHIRE.
entrusted with drawing up and classifying the Government popula-
tion returns for 1821, took the same precautions as to births, mar-
riages, burials, and population as in 1831, in the view of being
able to ascertain the ages of the population, and the periods of
life at which death ensued at particular epochs, when the popula-
tion could be accurately ascertained. He states as the result of
his experience, that in all the authentic bills of mortality he had
ever seen, there were more males born than females, but, taking
the population above fifteen years, the number of females prepon-
derates. The following results for Glasgow are derived from the
census of 1831.
Births— Males, \ - 3,527. Females, 3,341 excess of males, 186
Males under five years, 15,422 Females, 14,855 excess of males, 567
Males under ten years, 28,549 Females, 27,435 excess of males, 1,114
Males under fifteen years, 39,040 Females, 38,155 excess of males, 885
Males under twenty years, 47,529 Females, 50,411 excess of females 2,882
Males under thirty years, 62,706 Females, 73,419 excess of females, 10,713
Males— entire population, 93,724 Females, 108,702 excess of females, 14,978
Burials— Males, - 2,701 Females, 2,484 excess of males, 217
Probability of human life in England. — The want of sufficient
data for the formation of tables relative to the probability of hu-
man life in this country is apparent from a report of a Committee
of the House of Commons, (ordered to be printed on 15th Au-
gust 1833,) on the evidence of persons distinguished by their
knowledge in political science, such as George Mann Burrows,
Esq. Doctor in Medicine ; John Bowring, Esq. M. P. Doctor in
Laws; Stacey Grimaldi, Esq. Fellow of the Antiquarian Society; the
Rev. W. Hale Hale, Chaplain to the Bishop of London, and others,
that the public registers in England are so inefficient as to render
it impossible to determine the law of mortality among the working-
classes of the empire, either generally or locally. Mr John Tilley
Wheeler, clerk to the Worshipful Company of Parish Clerks, stated,
that in London, the returns for the mortality bill are made up in
each parish by two old pauper women, who are utterly incompe-
tent to give correct information, and frequently receive most falla-
cious reports ; and John Finlaison, Esq. the Government Actuary,
stated that no faith whatever could be put in bills of mortality as
they are now prepared. In order to procure an approximation of
the rate of mortality which prevails among the working-classes of
this country, that distinguished political inquirer resorted to the
public registers at Ostend in Flanders, where he made an observa-
tion on the mortality of that town for a period of twenty-six years,
ending in 1832. The result of his investigations was, that in a
GLASGOW. 127
population consisting of about 11,000 souls, the rate of mortality
was as one in thirty-six and one-eighth. Mr Finlaison stated in
evidence, that " he was enabled to determine that Ostend is (not-
withstanding the opinion that prevails in England) a very healthy
situation, and no doubt is equal to the average of England, at
least the only knowledge of the law of mortality, as prevailing
among the lower classes in England, on which he was able to de-
pend, is derived from that which he obtained in Flanders."
Probability of human life in Glasgow. — That Glasgow is a place
of average health for statistical purposes, may be inferred from the
statement under the head climate. But more particularly the de-
gree of health may be known, and tables formed for ascertaining
the probability of human life, from a series of the mortality bills,
where the ages of the living, and those of persons who have died,
are stated in connection with the population, and a table of longe-
vity for Scotland, which Dr Cleland prepared in 1821, by which
it appeared that, on an average of all the counties of Scotland,
there was one person eighty years of age, for every 14319o20 of the
population, whilst in the county of Lanark, with a population of
316,790, including 263,046, who live in towns, viz. in Glasgow,
202,426, and in other towns, 60,620, there was one such person for
every 169.T7o1o, showing a degree of health in the population of
Glasgow nearly equal to that of the whole of Scotland.
The following results have reference to Glasgow and its su-
burbs, which partake of a mercantile and manufacturing popula-
tion, or something between Liverpool and Manchester, but more
especially the latter, the town population being 198,518, and the
rural, 3908. In 1831, the population was found to be 202,426,
the burials 5185, and the rate of mortality consequently 39.T^5.
The births being 6868, there is one birth for every 29TVD per-
sons. The number of marriages being 1919, there are 3ryc births,
to each marriage, and one marriage for every lOS^o persons,
the number of families being 41,965 there are 4T8/o persons
to each family. It is very satisfactory to know that with the same
machinery in 1821, the population being 147,043, the burials
3686, the rate of mortality was 39T8o9U5 or, in other words, as near
as may be to the mortality of 1831. By reference to the bills of
mortality between the years 1821 and 1831, similar results will be
obtained.
Thus it appears that the mortality in England in 1832 was as-
sumed to be one in 36 J derived from data of about 11,000 souls
128 LANARKSHIRE.
resident in and belonging to a foreign country, while the mortality
in Glasgow in the preceding year was only one in 39T|o, as as-
certained from a population of upwards of 200,000, whose avo-
cations are narrated in the Government census; and as to the
principle by which the amount of mortality is ascertained, Joshua
Milne, Esq., the celebrated political inquirer, author of a Trea-
tise on Annuities, the Law of Mortality, &c. and Actuary to the
Sun Life Assurance Corporation, London, stated as his opinion,
in reference to the Glasgow bill, published by Dr Cleland in 1831,
having reference to former bills, that " the law of mortality in a
large manufactuing town may now be determined, though it could
not heretofore for want of the necessary data." It is therefore no
small honour to Glasgow that it may fairly claim precedence in
whatever relates to the formation of accurate tables for ascertain-
ing the probability of human life in large commercial and manu-
facturing towns.
Although every one at all conversant with political science would
place the utmost confidence in the testimony of Mr Milne, — that
testimony has been fully corroborated by the most distinguished
political economists in this country, and on the continent : among
others, by Mon. Jean Baptiste Say, the Adam Smith of France,
Dr Speiker of Berlin, the German Professor Friedlaender, Sir
John Sinclair, author of the original Statistical Account of Scot-
land ; the Rev. Dr Chalmers, Professor of Divinity in the Uni-
versity of Edinburgh, &c.*
* As an appendix to the bill of mortality, we have thought it right to give an ab-
stract of a statement which was drawn up for the Board of Health respecting cholera.
That dreadful epidemic, cholera morbus, showed itself in this city on the 1 2th Fe-
bruary 1832, and continued to 1 1th November. During that period there were 6208
cases, 3203 recoveries, and 3005 deaths, viz. males, 1289; females 1716; of whom,
under 20 years of age, 368 ; 20 years and under 70, 2365 ; 70 years and under 90, 272.
It was found that there had been three eruptions of cholera marked by the reduced
number of cases happening about the 3d of June, the 16th September, and the llth
November. Each eruption had a period of increase. In the first eruption, persons
poorly fed, of irregular habits, and dwelling in the crowded ill-aired parts of the city,
were chiefly affected. The second eruption was more severe, the attacks were more
scattered over the town, and many healthy persons, and in easy circumstances, fell vic-
tims to the disease. The last eruption was milder than the second, but still surpas-
sing the first, both in the number of cases and in the healthy and good condition of
many of the sufferers.
The total number of cases, 6208, is one for about every 324 °f the population.
The total number of deaths, 3005, is one for about every 67 £ of the population.
The progress of the disease was such as to have seized one victim for about every
six, and to have occasioned one death for about every thirteen families.
It became desirable, in a medical and statistical point of view, to ascertain the num-
ber of burials during the existence of the cholera, namely, from 12th February to 1 Ith
November 1832, as compared with the corresponding period in the preceding year,
The following was the result :
3
GLASGOW^ 129
III. — POPULATION.
There is no enumeration of the inhabitants of Glasgow that can
be relied on before the year 1610 ; but there are grounds for sup-
posing, that about the time of the Reformation, in 1560, the po-
pulation amounted to 4500.
In 1610, the Episcopal mode of government having been resum-
ed in the church, Archbishop Spottiswood directed the population
of the city to be ascertained, when it was found to amount to 7644.
In 1660, at the restoration of Charles II., the population amount-
ed to 14,678.
In 1688, at the Revolution, the population had decreased to
11,948. The civil wars are assigned as the cause of the decrease,
and it is a curious historical fact, that the number fell off imme-
diately after the restoration of Charles II., and that it required
more than half a century to make up the defalcation.
In 1708, immediately after the union with England, the popu-
lation amounted to 12,766. This enumeration was made by direc-
tion of the magistrates, to mark the falling off which they expected.
In 1712, the population amounted to 13,832. This was made
by order of the Convention of Royal Burghs, directing each of the
burghs to make a return of its population on oath.
In 1740, the population was ascertained by the magistrates to
be 17,034.
In 1755, the population had increased to 23,546, but this enu-
meration included persons living in houses which had been built
adjoining to, but without the royalty. At that period, the magis-
trates directed returns to be made for the Rev. Dr Webster, then
preparing his scheme for the Ministers' Widows' Fund.
In 1763, the population amounted to 28,300. This enumera-
tion was drawn up by Mr John Woodburn, the city surveyor.
Burials from 12th February to llth November 1832, including persons who died of
cholera, - 8124
Deduct those who died of cholera, and were buried in the burying-grounds in
the city and suburbs, including 161 persons who died beyond the boundary
of the population district, - 3166
4958
Burials from 12th February to llth November 1831, - - 4862
Increase of burials during the above period, after deducting deaths by cholera, 96
It was very fortunate, in a statistical point of view, that the pestilence did not visit,
this city when the Government census was taken, otherwise the data for ten years
would have been rendered more indistinct and less suitable for the formation of tables
for exhibiting the probability of human life in large towns. The paper, of which the
preceding is an abstract, was prepared by James Cleland, LL. D. Member of the
Board of Health, one of his Majesty's justices of the peace for the county of Lanark,
and by James Corkindale, M. D., LL. B , Medical Secretary to the Board of Health.
130 LANARKSHIRE.
In 1780, the population had increased to 42,832 ; but in this
enumeration the whole of the suburbs were for the first time in-
cluded.
In 1785, soon after the termination of the American war, the
magistrates directed the population to be ascertained ; it then
amounted to 45,889.
In 1791, the population was ascertained for Sir John Sinclair's
national statistical work. At that time, it amounted to 66,578,
including 4633, being part of the suburbs which had been omitted
in the return.
Prior to 1801, the general results only of the different enume-
rations were preserved, but in that year a census of the inhabitants
of Great Britain was taken, for the first time, by order of Govern-
ment, when the population amounted to — males, 35,007 ; females,
42,378 ; total, 77,385. But in this enumeration, a part of the
connected suburbs, the population of which amounted to 6384,
had been omitted, and which, added to the above, made the actual
population of Glasgow at that time 83,769.
In 1811, there was another Government enumeration of the in-
habitants of Great Britain, according to which the population of
Glasgow was as follows: — males, 45,275; females, 55,474; to-
tal, 100,749. But, in like manner, a part of the connected
suburbs, the population of which amounted to 9711, had not
been included in this enumeration, and which, added to the Go-
vernment table, made the population of the city at that period
110,460.
In 1819, Dr Cleland, under the sanction of the public bodies,
drew up the first classified enumeration of the inhabitants of Glas-
gow, according to which, the population amounted to — males,
68,994; females, 78,203; total, 147,197.
In 1821, there was another Government enumeration of the in-
habitants of Great Britain, when the population of Glasgow was —
nrles, 68,119; females, 78,924; total, 147,043.
fn 1831, there was a fourth enumeration of the inhabitants of
Great Britain, according to which, the population of Glasgow was —
males, 93,724; females, 108,702; total, 202,426.
IV. — COMMERCE AND MANUFACTURES.
Glasgow is advantageously situated for commercial pursuits.
Placed on the borders of one of the richest coal and mineral fields
in the island, with which it communicates by the Monkland Canal,
and by various rail-roads, and connected on the one hand with the
4
GLASGOW. 131
Atlantic by the Clyde, and on the other with the North Sea and
the German Ocean, by the Forth and Clyde Canal, and the
river Forth, it possesses facilities peculiarly favourable for trade.
Notwithstanding these local advantages, Glasgow was not remark-
able for trade until a considerable time after the union with Eng-
land. Its importance in a commercial point of view may be great-
ly attributed to the improvements on the Clyde, and to the enter-
prising spirit of its merchants and manufacturers during the last
seventy years. In 1420, a Mr Elphinstone is mentioned as a
curer of salmon and herrings for the French market ; and Princi-
pal Baillie mentions that this trade had greatly increased between
the years 1630 and 1664. As an encouragement to trade, then
in its infancy, an act was passed, in which it was stipulated that
the whole materials used in particular manufactures should be ex-
empt from duty; and in the same Parliament it was enacted,
for the better encouragement of soap manufacturers, that oil, pot-
ashes, and other materials for making soap, should be exempt
from duty. On 31st of January 1638, " Robert Fleyming and
his partners made offer to the town-council, to set up a manufac-
tory in the city, wherein a number of the poorer sort of the people
may be employed, provided they met with sufficient countenance.
On considering which offer, the council resolved, in consideration
of the great good, utility, and profit, which will redound to the
city, to give the said company a lease of their great lodging and back
yard in the Dry gate, excepting the two front vaults, free of rent,
for the space of seventeen years. On 8th May thereafter, the
convener of the trades reported, that the freemen weavers were afraid
that the erecting of the manufactory would prove hurtful to them.
On which, Patrick Bell, one of the partners, agreed that the com-
pany should not employ any unfree weavers of the town."
Printing. — Letter-press printing was introduced into Glasgow by
George Anderson in the year 1638 ; and one of the first works print-
ed by him was an account of the General Assembly, which met there
the same year. Anderson came to Glasgow in consequence of a~i
invitation from the magistrates. It appears from the records of
the town-council, 4th January 1640, that the treasurer was direct-
ed to pay him 100 punds, in satisfaction of his expenses " in trans-
porting his gear to this burghe," and in full of his bygone salaries
from Whitsunday 1638 till Martinmas 1639. It also appears from
the records of the council, 10th June 1663, that Anderson was
succeeded by his son, Andrew, as ordinary printer to the town and
132 LANARKSHIRE.
College, on condition of his " services as well, and his prices being
as easy as others." Andrew, who had been a printer in Edinburgh,
not finding matters to his mind here, returned to Edinburgh, and
in 1671 he was made King's printer for Scotland. Anderson was
succeeded in Glasgow by Robert Saunders, who styled himself
printer to the city, and who was for many years the only printer
in the west of Scotland. But his predecessor, now the royal ty-
pographer, came to Glasgow, and by threats and promises prevail-
ed on Saunders' workmen to desert him in the midst of an impres-
sion of (he New Testament. This oppressive conduct brought
the matter before the privy-council, which decided in December
1671, that Saunders should be allowed to finish his book, and that
any printer in Scotland had an equal right with his Majesty's to
print the New Testament and Psalm Book in the letter common-
ly called English Roman. Saunders died about 1696, leaving his
printing establishment to his son Robert, better known by the de-
signation " of Auldhouse," — a property purchased from a younger
branch of the family of Maxwell of Police. A few of the works
first printed by him were tolerably executed ; but his latter pro-
ductions are extremely paltry and inaccurate. Printing was now,
and for some years afterwards, in the lowest state in Scotland.
The exorbitancy of the royal grant to Anderson had produced the
worst effects. No person appears to have been employed for the
sole purpose of correcting the press ; and the low wages given to
pressmen, with the badness of the machines themselves, also tend-
ed to retard the improvement.
The University, in the meantime, was not wanting in efforts to
improve the printing in Glasgow. A paper, entitled " Proposals
for erecting a bookseller's shop, and a printing-press in the Uni-
versity of Glasgow," appears to have been presented to the faculty
in 1713, in which it is mentioned, that they were " obliged to go
to Edinburgh in order to get one sheet right printed." During the
same year, Thomas Harvie, a student of divinity, engaged to fur-
nish one or more printing-presses, and in the course of four years
to furnish founts and other materials for printing Greek, Latin,
and Hebrew, on condition that he should be declared University
printer and bookseller for forty years, " with all the privileges and
immunities which the University hath, or shall have hereafter, to
bestow on their printer and bookseller." Although these terms
were probably not ultimately accepted, they seem at least to have
been under frequent consideration ; and the sketch of a contract
GLASGOW. 133
with Harvie is preserved among the University papers. Two years
afterwards, " Donald Govane, younger, merchant in Glasgow, and
printer," was appointed to the same office for seven years, but his
name appears at few books.
James Duncan, who printed M'Ure's History of Glasgow, con-
tinued to print here till about the year 1750. Robert Urie and
Company were printers in the Gallowgate in 1740; and, during
the following year, executed several works for Robert Faulls, (im-
properly termed Fowlis.) Urie is entitled to the credit of adding
to the respectability of the Glasgow press. Amongst the finest
specimens of his work, are his editions of the Greek New Testa-
ment, and of the Spectator. But the art of printing was carried
to great perfection by the Messrs Faulls, who introduced into
Glasgow a style of printing which, for beauty and correctness, has
never been surpassed in any country. A brief account of these
distinguished persons cannot fail to be interesting.
Robert Faulls, the eldest son of Andrew Faulls, maltster, was born
in or near Glasgow, on the 20th of April 1707, and his brother
Andrew on the 22d of November 1712. Robert was sent at an early
period as an apprentice to a barber, and seems to have practised the
art of shaving for some time on his own account. While in this
situation, Dr Francis Hutcheson, then Professor of Moral Philoso-
phy in the University, discovered in him the talent which was after-
wards cultivated with so much success, encouraged his desire of
knowledge, and suggested to him the idea of becoming a booksel-
ler and printer. Although Robert Faulls did not receive a com-
plete University education, he continued to attend for several jears
the lectures of his patron ; but Andrew received a more regular
education, and for some years taught the Latin, Greek, and French
languages. . Having thus acquired a pretty accurate knowledge of
books, Robert began business in Glasgow as a bookseller in 1741,
and in the following year the first production of his press appear-
ed. He was assisted in the correction of his press by George
Rosse, then Professor of Humanity in the University, and by James
Moor, at that time a tutor about the college, and afterwards Pro-
fessor of Greek. To these advantages may be added the appoint-
ment, on 31st March 1743, of the elder brother as printer to the
University. In the same year he produced Demetrius Phalerius
de Elocutioiie, apparently the first Greek book printed in Glas-
gow, though George Anderson's printing-house had been nearly a
century before supplied with Greek and Hebrew types. In 1744,
LANARK. K
134 LANARKSHIRE.
appeared the celebrated edition of Horace, the proof sheets of
which, it is well known, were hung up in the college, and a reward
offered to any one who should discover an inaccuracy. By the
year 1746, Faulls had printed eighteen different classics, besides
Dr Hutcheson's class-book in English and Latin ; and Homer with
the Philippics of Demosthenes, were advertised as in the press.
The Homer appeared in the following year, both in a quarto and
in an octavo form. The first of these is a very beautiful book, and
more correct than the other, which was printed after Dr Clarke's
edition. The success which had attended the efforts of the Faullses
as printers, induced the elder brother to extend the sphere of his
usefulness. After being four times abroad, he sent home to his
brother a painter, an engraver, and a copperplate printer, whom he
had engaged in his service, and returned to Scotland in 1753, and
.soon afterwards instituted an academy in Glasgow for painting,
engraving, moulding, modelling, and drawing. The University
allowed him the use of a large hall for exhibiting his pictures, and
several other rooms for his students ; and three Glasgow merchants
afterwards became partners in the undertaking. The students,
according to the proposed plan, after having given proofs of genius
at home, were to be sent abroad at the expense of the academy.
But the scheme, which was somewhat romantic, did not succeed,
and was attended with considerable loss to all concerned. In
Faull's own words, " there seemed to be a pretty general emula-
tion, who should run it most down.'*
Letter-press printing has been carried on of late years to such
an extent that it could not be accomplished without the aid of
steam. Printing-machines were invented by Mr Nicholson, editor
of the Philosophical Journal, about the year 1790, but they were
first constructed, and put in operation, if not invented anew, by a
German named Konig about twenty to thirty years ago, and set
agoing in the printing of the London Times newspaper on 28th
November 1814, steam being the propelling power. The ma-
chines may be said to consist of two kinds, — those which print only
one side of a sheet of paper at a time, for newspaper work, — and
those which print both sides of the sheet, and are adapted for book
work. Messrs Ballantyne and Company of Edinburgh were the
first in Scotland who printed by steam. In 1829 or 1830, they
fitted up a steam-press for printing Blackwood's Magazine, and
the Waverley Novels. Soon after this, the Edinburgh, Leith, and
Glasgow Advertiser was printed by steam, then the Edinburgh
GLASGOW. 135
Weekly Chronicle, Chambers' Journal, and the Farmers' Maga-
zine. In 1831, the Aberdeen Journal was printed in this way;
and in 1834, Mr Edward Khull, printer to the University, fitted
up a steam-press for printing the Church of Scotland Magazine
in this city.
A copartnery for carrying on the whale fishery and making soap
was entered into in this city on the 15fh of September 1674. Mr
George Maxwell of Polloc, (created a baronet in 1682,) Provost
William Anderson, and James Colquhoun, one of the bailies
of the city, were among the original partners. The company em-
ployed five ships ; and the Providence, built at Belfast, was sailed
by Mr John Anderson, one of the partners. The company had
extensive premises at Greenock for boiling blubber and curing fish.
An advertisement appeared from them in the Glasgow Courant on
the llth of November 1715, being the first advertisement in the
first newspaper in the west of Scotland. It was in the following
words : — « Any one who wants good black or speckled soap may
be served by Robert Luke, manager of the soaparie of Glasgow,
at reasonable rates." The soaparie was at the head of Candle-
riggs Street, now the Commercial Buildings.
The tnanufacture of ropes was commenced on the 17th of
March 1696. Mr William Crawford of Jordanhill, and Mr James
Corbet of Kenmure, were among the first partners. In 1698,
an act of Parliament was passed for the further encouragement
of the manufacture of ropes and cordage in Glasgow, laying a
duty on all ropes imported from the Sound or east seas; and,
in return, the company were to advance a capital of L. 40,000
Scots, and to bring in foreigners to the work. It is probable that
the company's first premises had gone into decay, as the buildings
of what was afterwards known by the name of the Glasgow Rope-
work Company, reaching between Stockwell Street and Jamaica
Street, were not erected till the autumn of 1766.
With regard to sugar-houses, although the colonies were not laid
open to the Scotch until the Union, it appears that there were su-
gar-houses in Glasgow long before that period ; for, in an action
which the Crown brought against the sugar bakers in Glasgow and
Leith, it was urged that they had not only enjoyed the exemption
from the duties and customs on the import of materials for a great
number of years, but also the duties of excise upon the spirits and
other commodities manufactured by them. At length, in 1715, a
process was raised against them for the bygone excise duties ; and,
136 LANARKSHIRE.
in 1719, the Court of Exchequer found them liable in the sum of
L. 40,000 Sterling. As the trade could not pay any such sum, a
compromise was suggested, and a clause added to an act of Par-
liament, authorizing the treasury to treat with them; and, by another
act, the sugar manufacturers were acquitted of the L. 40,000 on
relinquishing their right of exemption from duties and customs.
The statute is general, and seems to subject all other privileged
parties to the general custom and excise of the nation. The only
parties in Scotland at that time exempt from the importation du-
ties were the Glasgow and Leith sugar companies, the Glasgow
soap-work, the rope-work companies, and a pin manufactory; the
three last made a claim as a compensation for the surrender of
their private rights, which does not seem to have been attended to.
The buildings of Stockwell Place are now erected on the site of
the sugar-house.
The tanning of leather seems to have been carried on in Glas-
gow from an early period. The Glasgow Tan-work Company,
whose extensive premises were at the head of the Gallowgate, com-
menced soon after the Union. There seems to have been three
sets of partners in this great undertaking. In 1780, the names of
Provost John Bowman ; Mr Alexander Speirs, of Elderslie ; Mr
John Campbell, of Clathic ; Mr Robert Bogle, of Daldowie ; Mr
Robert Marshall, and others, appear among its partners.
The brewing business, like the tanning, seems to have been car-
ried on with great spirit. Soon after the Union, Mr Crawford of
Milton erected an extensive brewery at Grahamston, afterwards
the property of Mr Robert Cowan. The brewing trade was car-
ried on extensively here at an early period by the Anderston Brew-
ery Company, and latterly by Messrs Blackstock, Baird, Struthers,
Buchanan, Hunter, &c.
Previously to the Union, the foreign trade of Glasgow was chiefly
confined to Holland and France. The union of the kingdoms,
which took place in 1707, having opened the colonies to the Scotch,
the merchants of Glasgow immediately availed themselves of the
circumstance, and having engaged extensively in a trade with Vir-
ginia and Maryland, soon made their city a mart for tobacco, and
the chief medium through which the farmers-general of France re-
ceived their supplies of that article. In 1721, a remonstrance was
preferred to the Lords of the Treasury, charging the Glasgow mer-
chants with fraud. After having heard parties, and considered the
representation, their Lordships dismissed the complaint "as ground-
GLASGOW. 137
less, and proceeding from a spirit of envy, not from a regard to the
interest of trade or the King's revenue." To such an extent was
this branch of commerce carried on in Glasgow, that for several
years previously to 1770, the annual import of tobacco into the
Clyde was from 35,000 to 45,000 hogsheads. In 1771, 49,016
hogsheads were imported. As the Glasgow merchants were en-
abled to undersell, and did undersell, those of London, Bristol,
Liverpool, and Whitehaven, jealousies arose which ended in liti-
gation. As the tobacco trade was suspended in 1783, at the break-
ing out of the war with America, the merchants of Glasgow engag-
ed their capital in other pursuits.
Some attempts having been made to open a connection with the
West Indies, the imports from that quarter into the Clyde in 1775
were as follow: Sugar, 4621 hogsheads, and 691 tierces; rum,
1154 puncheons, and 193 hogsheads; cotton, 503 bags. The fol-
lowing excerpt of imports into the Clyde, from the custom-house
books, shows the great increase of this trade. In the year ending
the 5th of January 1815, immediately preceding the battle of Wa-
terloo, there were imported, sugar, 540,198 cwts. 2 quarters, and
25 Ibs.; rum, 1,251,092 gallons; cotton-wool, 6,530,177 Ibs. The
import duties of these and other articles amounted to L. 563,058,
2s. 6d., and the produce was imported in 448 ships, carrying 79,219
tons, and employing 4868 men in navigating them. These imports
are, exclusive of grain, hemp, tallow, &c. from the Baltic, through
the Great Canal. The exports during the same period to Ame-
rica, the West Indies, and Europe, amounted to L. 4,016,181,
12s. 2jd., and 592 ships, 94,350 tonnage, and 6476 men, were
employed in this traffic.
In 1718, the art of type-making was introduced by James Dun-
can. The types used by him are evidently of his own making,
being rudely cut, and badly proportioned. He deserves credit,
however, for the attempt, and his letters are little inferior to those
used by the other Scottish printers of that period. In M'Ure's
History of Glasgow, he is styled " printer to the city."
In 1740, the art was brought to great perfection by Mr Alexan-
der Wilson, afterward Professor of Astronomy in this University,
and by his friend Mr John Baine. They first settled at St An-
drews, the place of their nativity, but soon after removed to Cam-
lachie, a suburb of this city, where they carried on business till the
partnership was dissolved on Mr Baine's going to Dublin, where
he remained but a short time. The professor removed to Glas-
138 LANARKSHIRE.
gow, and lived to see his foundery become the most extensive and
the most celebrated of any in Europe. At his death, the business
was carried on by his son, and continued by the family on a very
extensive scale for a number of years. As a considerable part of
their types went to London and Edinburgh, and as other type-
makers had commenced business here, the Messrs Wilsons, in 1834,
removed their business from this city, one part of it to London, and
the other to Edinburgh ; Alexander conducting the London de-
partment, and Patrick the Edinburgh.
Although the origin of stereotyping is uncertain, it is evident
that it was not invented by the French. If it be a modern inven-
tion, or there be any question as to the country in which it was first
used, the Scots are entitled to the preference ; for there certainly
was an instance of the art having been used in Edinburgh many
years before the earliest date at which it is said, or is even suppos-
ed to have been used in France. And in evidence of this, refer-
ence is made to the original stereotyped page of Sallust, with the
plate and matrix, as well as a copy of the book, in the Hunterian
Museum at Glasgow. Mr Andrew Duncan introduced stereotyp-
ing into this city in 1818; and since that period, Messrs Hutchi-
son and Brookman, Edward Khull, Blackie and Son, and Fuller-
ton and Company, carry on the business of stereotyping to a very
great extent.
Steam Engines as applicable to Manufactures. — As the great im-
provement on the steam-engine was made in Glasgow, a brief ac-
count of that mighty engine may not be improper here. The
steam-engine was invented in the reign of Charles II. by the Mar-
quis of Worcester, who, in the year 1663, published a book en-
titled A Century of Inventions. But as the Marquis, though not-
able as a theoretical projector, knew little of practical detail, Cap-
tain Savary took up the subject, and published a book in 1696, en-
titled The Miner's Friend^ where he described the principles of his
improvement, for which he obtained a patent. About this time,
M. Papin, a Frenchman, came to England, and becoming fami-
liar with the elastic power of steam, on his return home he was
employed by Charles, Landgrave of Hesse, to raise water by a ma-
chine which he constructed ; and from this, his countrymen affect-
ed to consider him as the inventor of the steam-engine. In 1707,
he published an account of his inventions. Not long after this,
Mr Amonton contrived a machine which he called a fire-wheel.
It consisted of a number of buckets placed in the circumference of
GLASGOW. 139
the wheel, and communicating with each other by very circuitous
passages. One part of the circumference was exposed to the heat
of a furnace, and another to a stream or cistern of cold water. At
the death of Amonton, M. Dessandes, a member of the Acade-
my of Sciences at Paris, presented to the academy a project of a
steam-wheel, where the impulsive force of the vapours was impel-
led ; but it met with little encouragement. In the meantime, the
English engineers had so much improved Savary's invention, that
it supplanted all others. Mr Newcomen, a blacksmith at Dart-
mouth in Devonshire, observing that Savary's engine could not lift
water from deep mines, set his genius to work, and made great im-
provements on it. Savary's engine raised water by the force of
steam ; but, in Newcomen's contrivance, this was done by the pressure
of the atmosphere, and steam was employed merely as the most ex-
peditious method of producing a vacuum. This engine was first
offered to the public in 1705, but its imperfections were not removed
till 1717, when Mr Beighton brought it into its present form.
The greatest improvement on the steam-engine was, however,
reserved for Mr James Watt, who was born at Greenock on the
19th of January 1736. When Mr Watt had completed his edu-
cation in Greenock and Glasgow, he went to London in 1754, and
returned in 1757, and in a short time he was appointed philoso-
phical instrument-maker to the university. This circumstance laid
the foundation of an intimacy with Drs Adam Smith, Black, and
Dick, Mr Anderson, Mr Robison, and other distinguished persons
connected with the university. In contemplating the principles of
a small working model of Newcomen's steam-engine, which Pro-
fessor Anderson sent him to repair, Mr Watt thought it capable of
improvement ; and having procured an apartment in Delftfield, he
shut himself up along with his apprentice, Mr John Gardner, after-
wards a philosophical instrument-maker in this city, and it was in
this place that the foundation of the great improvement on the
steam-engine was laid.* In 1769, Mr Watt, on the recommenda-
tion of Dr Black, formed a connection with Dr Roebuck of Carron
* When Jean Baptiste Say, the celebrated French philosopher, visited Glasgow
several years ago, he sat down in the class-room chair which had been used by Dr
Adam Smith, and after a short prayer, said, with great fervour, " Lord, let now thy
servant depart in peace." In August 1834, when the no less celebrated M. Arago,
Perpetual Secretary to the French Institute, visited this University, accompanied by
Principal Macfarlun, Professor Mac Gill, Professor Meikleham, and Dr Clcland, he
re-quested to see the small model of Newcomen's steam-engine, which directed Mr
Watt's mind to his great improvements. On the engine being shown him, he expres-
sed great delight, and considered it as a relic of great value.
140 LANARKSHIRE.
Iron-works, when he left Glasgow for Kinneil House, near these
works, where he constructed a small steam-engine. The cylinder
was of block-tin, eighteen inches diameter. The first experiment,
which was made at a coal mine, succeeded to admiration ; indeed
his success was so great, that he procured a patent " for saving
steam and fuel in fire-engines." Dr Roebuck's affairs becoming
embarrassed in 1775, Mr Watt formed a connection with Mr Boul-
ton of Soho, Birmingham, where they had the exclusive privilege
of making steam-engines for a period of twenty-jive years.
On the expiration of the exclusive privilege, the engineers of
this city commenced making steam-engines ; and to such an extent
is this business carried on here for every part of the country, that
there are now fourteen firms who make steam-engines or mill ma-
chinery. Some of the works are more like national than private
undertakings. Three houses alone employ upwards of 1000 per-
sons in this important branch of trade.
It appears from Dr Cleland's folio statistical work, that in 1831
there were in Glasgow arid its suburbs thirty-one different kinds of
manufactures where steam-engines are used, and that in these, and
in collieries, quarries, and steam-boats/ there were 355 steam-en-
gines = 7366 horse power ; average power of engines rather more
than twenty horses each. The increase of engines in four years
may be taken at about 10 per cent.
The Cotton Trade. — The manufacture of linens, lawns, cambrics,
and other articles of similar fabric, was introduced into Glasgow
about the year 1725, and continued to be the staple manufacture
till they were succeeded by muslins. The following is a brief ac-
count of that important event :
About the year 1730, the 'late Mr J. Wyatt of Birmingham
first conceived the project of spinning cotton yarn by machinery.
The wool had to be carded in the common way, and was pressed
between two cylinders, whence the bobbin drew it by means of the
twist. In 1741 or 1742, the first mill for spinning cotton was
erected in Birmingham ; it was turned by two asses walking round
an axis, and ten girls were employed in attending the work. A
work upon a larger scale on a stream of water was soon after this
established at Northampton under the direction of Mr Yeoman ;
but nothing new had occurred in weaving till 1750, when Mr John
Kay, a weaver in Bury, invented the fly shuttles. In 1760, Mr
James Hargreave, a weaver at Stanhill, near Church in Lanca-
4
GLASGOW. 141
shire, adapted the stock cards used in the woollen manufacture, to
the carding of cotton, and greatly improved them. By their means,
a person was able to do double the work, and with more ease than by
hand-carding. This contrivance was soon succeeded by the cy-
linder carding-machine. It has not been ascertained who was the
inventor of this valuable machine, but it is known, that the grand-
father of Sir Robert Peel, late first Lord of the Treasury, was
among the first who used it. In 1767, Mr Hargreave invented the
spinning jenny. This machine, although of limited powers, when
compared with the beautiful inventions which succeeded it, must
be considered as the first and leading step in that progress of dis-
covery, which carried improvement into every branch of the manu-
facture, changing as it proceeds, the nature and character of the
.means of production, by substituting mechanical operation for hu-
man labour. The progress of invention after this was rapid.
Hargreave in the meantime had removed to Nottingham, where
he erected a small spinning work, and soon afterwards died in great
poverty. The jenny having in a short time put an end to the
spinning of cotton by the common wheel, the whole wefts used in
the manufacture continued to be spun upon that machine, until the
invention of the mule jenny, by which in its turn it was super-
seded. It would appear, that whilst Hargreave was producing the
common jenny, Mr (afterwards Sir Richard) Arkwright, was em-
ployed in contriving that wonderful piece of mechanism, the spin-
ning-frame, which, when put in motion, performs of itself the
whole process of spinning, leaving to man only the office of sup-
plying the material, and of joining or piecing the thread.*
In 1769, Mr Arkwright obtained his patent for spinning with
rollers, and he erected his first mill at Nottingham, which he
worked by horse power. But this mode of giving motion to the
machinery being expensive, he built another mill at Cromford in
Derbyshire, in 1771, to which motion was given by water. Water-
twist received its name from the circumstance of the machinery
from which it is obtained, having for a long time after its invention
been generally put in motion by water. The only improvement
or even alteration yet made on Sir Richard's contrivance, the spin-
ning-frame, is the machine invented several years ago, called the
throstle. Instead of four or six spindles being coupled together,
* Those who desire a more minute account of the early history of the cotton trade,
arc referred to a valuable and elaborate work on that subject, by Mr John Kennedy
of Manchester.
142 LANARKSHIRE.
forming what is called a head, with a separate movement by a pulley
and drum, as is the case in the frame, the whole rollers and spindles
on both sides of the throstle are connected together, and turned by
bands from a tin cylinder lying horizontally under the machine,
but its chief merit consists in the simplification of the apparatus,
which renders the movement lighter. Besides this, the throstle
can with more ease and at less expense than the frame be altered
to spin the different grists of yarn.
In the year 1775, Mr Samuel Crompton, of Bolton, completed
his invention of the mule jenny, so called from its being in its struc-
ture and operation a compound of the spinning-frame, and of Har-
greave's jenny. The mule was originally worked by the spinner's
hand, but in the year 1792, Mr William Kelly of Glasgow, at that
time manager of the Lanark millsj obtained a patent for moving it
by machinery ; and although the undisputed inventor of the pro-
cess, he allowed every one freely to avail himself of its advantages.
A great object expected to be obtained by this improvement was,
that, instead of employing men as spinners, which was indispen-
sable when the machine was to be worked by the hand, children
would be able to perform every office required. To give the means
of accomplishing this, Mr Kelly's machinery was contrived so as
to move every part of the mule, even to the returning of the carriage
into its place, after the draught was finished. But after a short
trial of this mode of spinning it was discovered that a greater amount
of produce might be obtained, and at a cheaper rate, by taking
back the men as spinners, and employing them to return the car-
riage as formerly, whilst the machine performed the other operations.
In this way one man might spin two mules, the carriage of the one
moving out during the time the spinner was engaged in returning
the other. The process of mule-spinning continued to be conduct-
ed upon this plan until lately, when several proprietors of large
cotton works restored that part of Mr Kelly's machinery which re-
turns the carriage into its place after the draught is completed.
During the time that the machines for the different processes
of cotton spinning were advancing towards perfection, Mr James
Watt had applied his admirable improvements on the steam-en-
gine to give motion to mill-work in general. His inventions for
this end, besides the ingenuity and beauty of contrivance which
they possess, have had an influence upon the circumstances of this
country, and of mankind, far more important than that produced
by any other mechanical discovery.
GLASGOW. 143
The foregoing application merely assisted the spinner in push-
ing in the carriage. To meet the more nice and difficult operations of
winding the thread upon the spindle, and forming it into the proper
shape of a cop, still devolved upon the spinner, and required per-
sons of superior skill and dexterity. The wages of that class of
workmen have been maintained at a higher range than in the ge-
nerality of manufacturing employments. This high rate of wages
has led to the contrivance of many expedients to lessen the cost
of production in this process of the manufacture. About the year
1795, Mr Archibald Buchanan of Catrine, now one of the oldest
practical spinners in Britain, and one of the earliest pupils of Ark-
wright, became connected with Messrs James Finlay and Com-
pany, of Glasgow, and engaged in refitting their works at Ballin-
dalloch in Stirlingshire. Having constructed very light mule jen-
nies, he dispensed altogether with the employment of men as spin-
ners, and trained young women to the work. These he found
more easily directed than the men, more steady in attendance to
their work, and more cleanly and tidy in the keeping of their ma-
chines, and contented with much smaller wages. That work has
ever since been wrought by women, and they have always been
remarkable for their stout healthy appearance, as well as for good
looks, and extreme neatness of dress. Mr Buchanan having, in
1802, removed to the Catrine works, in the parish of Sorn, Ayr-
shire, then purchased by James Finlay and Company, carried some
female spinners with him, and there introduced most successfully
the same system as at Ballindalloch. This system has from time
to time been partially adopted at other works in Scotland and Eng-
land ; but men are still most generally employed.
The men having formed a union for the protection of their trade,
as they supposed, have from time to time annoyed their employers
with vexatious interferences and restrictions, which have induced a
great desire on the part of the masters to be able to dispense with
their employment; and this has led to several attempts to invent a
set of mechanism to perform all the operations hitherto performed
by men or women, thereby forming a self-acting mule. Mr William
Kelly was the first to patent a machine of this description in the
year 1792, as has already been stated. About the same time, Mr
Archibald Buchanan of Catrine Works, then at Deanston Works,
in Perthshire, made an attempt to perfect a self-acting mule, but
was not at that time successful. The next attempt was made by
Mr Eaton of Derby, who took out a patent in 1815, and fitted up
144 LANARKSHIRE.
a flat of his mills in Manchester soon after. The mechanism being
complicated, no practical spinners ventured to give the machine a
trial.
In 1825, M. de Jonge, an ingenious French gentleman, who has
been long resident in this country, contrived a machine of more
simple construction, for which he obtained a patent. This he
had in operation at Warrington in Lancashire, and in Yorkshire ;
but they have never made farther progress. The spinners of Man-
chester and neighbourhood having been much annoyed by the union
of their spinners, applied to Messrs Sharp, Roberts, and Company,
celebrated machine-makers, to allow their Mr Roberts, a man of
great ingenuity, and of much skill and taste in mechanism, to en-
deavour to perfect a self-acting mule. This Mr Roberts under-
took ; and having devoted himself to the pursuit, succeeded, after
several years of experiment, and at the expense of a large sum of
money, (upwards, it is said, of L. 10,000, ) in producing a machine
which has been found to work well in the spinning of yarn, not ex-
ceeding forty hanks in the pound. In the construction of this ma-
chine there is a display of great ingenuity, skill, and taste, and it
has been adopted to some extent by several extensive spinners.
Still, however, there are objections to these machines, on account
of the complexity and expense of the mechanism ; and from the
peculiar style of the movements, the machine is still liable to break-
age, and to considerable tear and wear. About the year 1826,
Mr Buchanan having to renew the mules at Catrine Works, re-
solved to attempt again a self-actor; and with some suggestions
from his nephew, Mr James Smith of Deanston Works, and with
much ingenuity and perseverance on his own part, he succeeded
in contriving an effective machine. He has had his whole work in
operation on this plan for six years past, and under his peculiar
good management, the machines perform very well in low num-
bers. In 1820, Mr James Smith of Deanston Works had con-
trived and constructed the mechanism of a self-acting mule ; but
his attention having been required to other more extensive and
important operations, he laid it aside, it is believed, without trial.
In 1833, Mr Smith seeing the desire that existed for a simple and
efficient self-acting mule, and more especially such as could be
applied to the mules of various constructions at present in general
use in the trade, set about contriving one ; and, having made some
progress, he came to hear of a very simple contrivance for facili-
tating the process of backing off (one of the most difficult to ac-
GLASGOW. 145
complish in a self-actor,) by John Robertson, an operative spin-
ner, and foreman to Mr James Orr of Crofthead Mill, in Renfrew-
shire. Robertson, through Mr Orr, obtained a patent for his in-
vention, which consisted of other movements, rendering the mule
completely self-acting. Mr Smith, struck with the simplicity and
efficacy of his backing-off movement, which consists in stripping
the coils from the spindles, entered into an arrangement with Mr
Orr and Robertson, and having united the mechanism of his own
patent with that of Robertson and Orr, they have now brought out
a machine, which is considered to be more simple and effective,
and more generally applicable to all mules, than any other yet
brought before the trade, and it is believed it will soon be gene-
rally adopted.
The adoption of the self-acting mules will bring the business
of spinning much more under the control of the master, and will
aid much in enabling the spinners of Britain to maintain a success-
ful competition against the cheap labour of other countries, who
have less capital and less facilities for obtaining these improved
machines, and less skill for their management, if obtained.
About six years ago, Mr Smith of Deanston Works, invented
a very simple throstle for spinning water-twist yarn, in the form of
a cop, intended to facilitate the manufacture of water-twist shirt-
ing. This machine works well, and the tension of the thread in
spinning is maintained by the action of two fanner's slades or wings
attached to the stem of a spindle, similar to a mule spindle, and
on which the cop is built ; and which, from the uniform and soft
resistance of the air, gives a never-varying tension. But the most
wonderful improvement in water-spinning was brought to this coun-
try from the United States in 1831, by Mr Alexander Carrick,
a native of Glasgow, who then obtained a patent for the invention.
The inventor, a mechanic of the name of Danforth, came with the
machine to this country, and it has now obtained his name, being
denominated the Danforth Throstle. This throstle has no flies.
The twisting part consists of a dead or fast spindle, on which a
socket of about five inches long is fitted to revolve, and on this the
bobbin for receiving the thread being spun is placed. On the top
of the spindle is placed a hollow cap of one and a-half to two in-
ches diameter, which covers the bobbin ; and the thread, passing
from the roller to the bobbin, is revolved by the motion of the
socket and bobbin round the outer surface of this cap ; but the
centrifugal force of the thread causes it to fly out from the cap,
146 LANARKSHIRE.
and the only point of contact is round the edge of the mouth of
the cap, when the thread passes to the bobbin. From this, and
the resistance of the air to the movement of the thread, the ten-
sion is derived, and is light and uniform. The spindle of .the com-
mon throstle cannot be driven to advantage above 4000 or 5000
revolutions in a minute, whilst the Danforth socket may be run
with advantage at 8000 or 9000. This machine has been slowly
getting into use, and suits to spin twist from tens to forties. The
yarn has a medium character, betwixt water -twist and mule-twist.
The power required to turn this machine is great, and the tear
and wear of the machine considerable. Another American throstle
(which, however, was invented in Scotland thirty years ago,) was
introduced about four years ago, by Mr Montgomerie of Johnston.
It consists of a long central spindle, embraced by a double-necked
flur, and is said to work well, building the yarn in the form of a
cop, or on a bobbin, as may be required. Several are at work about
Glasgow. By these and other improvements in the various pro-
cesses of cotton spinning, as much yarn can now be spun for 5s.
of wages as cost L. 1 twenty-five years ago. *
In the year 1797, a new machine for cleaning cotton was invent-
ed by Mr Neil Snodgrass, now of Glasgow, and first used at John-
ston, near Paisley, by Messrs Houston and Company. It is called
a skutching or blowing machine. Its merits were not sufficiently
known till 1808 or 1809, when it was introduced into Manchester.
About that period it received some improvements from Mr Ark-
wright, and Mr Strutt, who applied a fanner to create a strong
draft of air passing through a revolving wire sieve, whereby the
dust and small flur separated from the cotton by the blows of the
skutcher is carried off, and thrown into a chamber, where it is de-
posited, or into the open air out of doors ; whilst the opened cot-
ton is stopped by the sieve, and, arranging into a fleecy form of
uniform thickness, passes by the revolution of the sieve to a roller,
when it is wound up, to be carried to the carding-engine.
The most complete arrangement of this machine was made by
* In November 1831, Dr Cleland ascertained, that in 44 mills in Lanarkshire, for
spinning cotton, there were 1344 spinners, 640,188 spindles, viz. 591,288 mules, and
48,900 throstles.
On 21st July 1834, the total number of persons employed in the cotton, woollen,
ftax, and silk mills in Scotland, was 46,825, of whom 13,721 (3799 males, and 9992
females) are between the ages of 13 and 18, and 6228 (2552 males, and 3676 females,)
are under 13 years of age. There are few under 1 1. Their number, as stated in the
returns, amounts to 1143; but that is not to be taken as the number now in the mills,
some mill owners having discharged all under 11 — Factory Report, p. 7.
3
GLASGOW.. 147
Mr Buchanan of Catrine Works in 1817, whereby the whole pro-
cesses of opening, cleaning, and lapping the cotton are performed
at once by a series of four skutchers, each with a sieve. The rooms
in which these machines work are as free of dust as a drawing-room;
and this process, at one time the most disagreeable and unwhole-
some, is now quite the reverse ; besides, the cotton being com-
pletely freed of the dust and flur, is more cleanly in all succeed-
ing processes, much to the comfort of the workers, and the bene-
fit of the work.
• Little improvement was made in the carding-engine for many years.
About 1812, however, a system of completing the carding process
in one machine was introduced, and is now pretty generally adopt-
ed for numbers under fifties, and in some cases as high as eighties.
In 1815, Mr Smith of Deanston Works, constructed a carding-en-
gine, having the flats or tops moveable on hinges, and applied an
apparatus for turning and cleaning the tops, which was the first
self-topping engine ; and with him the idea had originated. Two
years after, Mr Buchanan arranged a more perfect machine, and
had it adopted in all his water-twist mills. Some years after, he
farther improved this apparatus, and obtained a patent. In 1829,
Mr Smith again improved the topping apparatus, by substituting
a chain of successive tops, and had them made of tin plate, to avoid
warping. This ^improvement, together with a neat and effective
arrangement of cylinders, forming a compact single engine, he com-
pleted in 1833, and obtained a patent.
These engines occupy about half the space of the Oldham en-
gine much used in England, make more perfect work, and will
turn off nearly two pounds per inch of wire per day, for numbers
from thirties to forties.
Some of the movements are extremely striking and beautiful.
This machine gives promise of many advantages to the trade.
In* the roving process some recent improvements have been in-
troduced. About ten years ago, Mr Henry Houldsworth Junior of
Glasgow, now of Manchester, contrived a beautiful differential mo-
tion for the winding in of the rovings on the spindle and fly ma-
chine, and obtained a patent. This improvement has got much
into use. About the same time a very peculiar mode of roving was
introduced from America, by the late Mr James Dunlop, and
which was afterwards improved, and patented by Mr Dyer of Man-
chester. This machine is called the tube-machine, and has got
much into use for the lower numbers of yarns. The rove coming
148 LANARKSHIRE.
from the drawing rollers, passes through a tube revolving at the
rate of 5000 turns per minute, whereby a hard twist is thrown
up to the rollers, and the roving being wound on a spool or bobbin
at the opposite end of the tube, gives off all the twist, but from the
compression and rubbing it has undergone, retains a round and
compact form, and has sufficient tenacity to pull round the spool or
bobbin, in being drawn into the spinning-machine. This machine
is simple, goes at a great speed, and turns off a deal of work, but
it has not yet been successfully applied to any numbers above
forties.
There are now many splendid spinning establishments in and
around Glasgow. Those of the Lanark Company, on the Clyde,
about twenty miles from Glasgow, are the most extensive in one
establishment ; but the three establishments of Messrs James Fin-
lay and Company of Glasgow, (of which Mr Kirkman Finlay is
the head,) at Catrine, Deanston, and Ballindalloch, are the most
extensive ones in the whole kingdom, and employ about 2400
hands in spinning, weaving, bleaching, &c.
In reviewing the various machines which have been invented for
the cotton manufacture, the result terminates in this, — that one
man can now spin as much cotton yarn in a given time as 200
could have done sixty years ago.
On the 21st of July 1834, Mr Leonard Horner, one of the Par-
liamentary Factory Commissioners, reported, " That in Scotland
there are 134 cotton-mills ; that, with the exception of some large
establishments at Aberdeen, and one at Stanley, near Perth, the
cotton manufacture is almost entirely confined to Glasgow, and
the country immediately adjoining, to a distance of about 25
miles radius ; and all these country mills, even including the great
work at Stanley, are connected with Glasgow houses, or in the
Glasgow trade. In Lanarkshire, (in which Glasgow is situated,)
there are 74 cotton factories; in Renfrewshire, 41 ; Dumbarton-
shire, 4 ; Buteshire, 2; Argyleshire, 1 ; Perthshire, 1. In these six
counties, there are 123 cotton-mills," nearly 100 of which belong
to Glasgow. The following statement, also from the Factory
Commission Report, will give a pretty good idea of the amount of
cotton trade in Glasgow : "In Lanarkshire, there are 74 cotton,
2 woollen, and 2 silk factories ; 78 steam engines,* namely, 17, each
* Mr (afterwards Sir Richard) Arkwright obtained his patent for spinning cot-
ton with rollers in 1769. Soon after this he erected his first mill at Nottingham,
which he worked by horse-power. His second mill he erected at Cromford in
Derbyshire in 1771, to which he gave motion by water. In 1785, Messrs Boulton
GLASGOW. 149
of 50 horse power and upwards ; 1 1 from 40 to 49 horse power ;
9 from 30 to 39 horse power; 19 from 20 to 29 horse power;
20 from 10 to 19 horse power; 2 under 10 horse power. Wa-
ter-wheels, 3, each of 50 horse power and upwards; 2 under 10
horse power. Total horse power, 2914; of which, steam, 2394,
water, 520. Total persons employed in factories, 17,949 ; of this
number, 13 years and under 18 years, 5047, viz. males, 1345 ;
females, 3702 ; under 13 years, 1651, viz. males, 756; females,
895."
The increase of the cotton trade in Scotland may be seen by
the following official statement of cotton-wool taken for the con-
sumption of Scotland from 1818 till 1834.
Years. Bales. Years. Bales.
1818, 46,565 1827, 72,655
1819, 50,123 1828, 74,037
1820, 51,994 1829, 79,742
1821, 53,002 1830, 79,801
1822, 55,447 1831, 85,929
1823, 54,891 1832, 88,162
1824, 54,708 1833, 86,964
1825, 56,995 1834, 95,603
1826, 56,117
Calico-printing has been the subject of modern improvement,
which may be compared in importance with those in cotton-spin-
ning ; and most of these improvements have either originated or
been matured and perfected in Lancashire. The old method of
printing still continued — for certain parts of the work — was by blocks
and Watt put up the first steam engine for spinning cotton in Britain, at Papplewick,
for Messrs Robison. The first steam engine for spinning cotton in Manchester was
put up in 1790, and the first in Glasgow in 1792. This was for Messrs Scott, Ste-
venson, and Company, opposite the Broomielaw.
The following table, taken from Mr Baines' History of the Cotton Manufacture,
exhibits the astonishing increase of the cotton trade in sixty-six years.
Grand summary of cotton mills in the United Kingdom.
No. of Horse power. No. of persons
Districts of Factory Inspectors. Mills. Steam. Water. employed.
Mr Rickards, - 934 26,513 6,093£ 175,268
Mr Homer's, - - 152 3,670 2,792 35,623
Mr Saunder's, 54 438 1,172 8,128
MrHowell's, - 14 232 146 1,806
Total, - 1154 30,853 10,203^ 220,825
In England and Wales, - 1000 27,049 7,343£ 185,031
In Scotland, - - 125 3,200 2,480 31,099
In Ireland, 29 604 380 4,695
Total in the United Kingdom, 1154 30,853 10,203£ 220,825
In 1 785, when Boulton and Watt pu,t up their first steam engine for spinning cot-
ton, the quantity of cotton imported into Great Britain, was 18,400,384 Ibs. of which
there were exported 407,496 Ibs. In forty-eight years after, viz. in 1833, the quan-
tity imported was 303,6.56,837 Ibs. ; exported, 17,363,882 Ibs. ; quantity entered for
consumption, 293,682,976 Ibs.
, LANARK. L
150 LANARKSHIRE.
of sycamore, about ten inches long by five broad, on the surface of
which the pattern was cut in relief, in the common method of wood-
engraving. On the back of the block was a handle by which the
workman held it : the surface was applied to a woollen cloth stretch-
ed over a vessel containing the colour, and in contact with that
colour, so as to be saturated by it, and was then laid upon the
piece of cloth, (there being wire points at the corners of the block
to enable the workmen to apply it with exactness,) and struck with
an iron mallet. Thus the figure was impressed upon the cloth,
one colour only being used at once ; and if other colours were re-
quired to complete the pattern, it was necessary to repeat the ope-
ration with different blocks. In order to produce more delicate pat-
terns than could be engraved on wood, copper-plates were intro-
duced in the neighbourhood of London, and the cloth was thus
printed from flat plates, with the kind of press used in copper-plate
printing. Each of these modes was tedious, as no more of the
cloth could be printed at once than was covered with the wooden
block or copper-plate ; and a single piece of calico, twenty-eight
yards in length, required the application of the block 448 times.
The grand improvement is the art of cylinder printing, which
bears nearly the same relation in point of despatch to block-print-
ing by hand as throstle or mule spinning bears to spinning by the
one thread wheel.
This great invention is said to have been made by a. Scotchman
of the name of Bell, and it was first successfully applied in Lanca-
shire, about the year 1785, at Mosney, near Preston, by the house
of Livesay, Hargreaves, Hall, and Company.
The chemical department of printing has not been less rich in
discoveries than the mechanical. At the head of these stands
the grand discovery of the properties of chlorine, and which are
of important use in several stages and processes of printing, as well
as in whitening the cloth. Whenever, in the course of printing,
the calico is to be freed from stain or discoloration, the solution of
chloride of lime is used ; and by the aid of this powerful agent a
rich chintz, which formerly required many weeks to print in the
summer season, when it could be laid on the grass exposed to the
air and sun, is now produced without ever going from under the
roof of the factory, and almost in as many days.
I It has been remarked, that cotton fabrics are very rarely dyed
of a uniform colour. Sometimes a flower, stripe, or other figure,
is printed on a white ground ; and at other times the pattern only
GLASGOW. 151
is white, and the rest of the cloth dyed. The proper use of mor-
dants lies at the foundation of the dyer's art. The nature of mor-
dants is thus explained by Dr Thomson :
" The term mordant is applied by dyers to certain substances
with which the cloth to be dyed must be impregnated, otherwise
the colouring matters would not adhere to the cloth, but would be
removed by washing. Thus the red colour given to cotton by
madder would not be fixed, unless the cloth were previously steep-
ed in a solution of a salt alumina. It has been ascertained that
the cloth has the property of decomposing the salt of alumina, and
of combining with and retaining a portion of alumina. The red co-
louring principle of the madder has an affinity for this alumina,
and combines with it. The consequence is, that the alumina be-
ing firmly retained by the cloth, and the colouring matter by the
alumina, the dye becomes fast, or cannot be removed by washing
the cloth with water, even by the assistance of soap, though simple
water is sufficient to remove the red colouring matter from the cloth,
unless the alum mordant (from the Latin word mordeo, to bite,)
was applied to these substances by the French writers on dyeing,
from a notion entertained by them, that the action of the mordants
was mechanical ; that they were of a corrosive or biting nature,
and served merely to open pores in the fibres of the cloth, into
which the colouring matter might insinuate itself. And after the
inaccuracy of this notion was discovered, and the real use of mor-
dants ascertained, the term was still continued as sufficiently ap-
propriate, or rather, a proper name without any allusion to its ori-
ginal signification. The term mordant, however, is not limited to
those substances merely which serve, like alumina, to fix the co-
lours. It is applied also to certain substances which have the pro-
perty of altering the shade of colour, or of brightening the colour
as it is called." *
The art of dyeing the fine red, called Turkey or Adrianople
red, on thread or yarn, has long been practised in the Levant, and
subsequently in Europe. About forty years ago, it was introduced
in Glasgow by M. Papillon, a Frenchman, who established a dye-
work with Mr George Macintosh, and this city has ever since been
famous for dyeing Turkey red.
The art of giving this colour to cloth was unknown till the year
1810, when it was first practised by M. Daniel Koechlin of Mulhau-
sen, in Alsace. The discovery, which has immortalized the name of
* K n cyclopaedia Britanniea, 7th edition, article, " Dyeing."
152 LANARKSHIRE.
this gentleman in the annals of calico-printing, was made the fol-
lowing year. It consists in printing upon Turkey red, or any dyed
colour, some powerful acid, and then immersing the cloth in a so-
lution of chloride of lime. Neither of these agents singly and alone
affects the colour; but those parts which have received the acid,
on being plunged in chloride of lime, are speedily deprived of their
dye, and made white by the acid of the liberated chlorine. This
is one of the most beautiful facts in the chemistry of calico-print-
ing.
For this process, a patent was obtained in this country by Mr
James Thomson of Primrose, near Clitheroe, in the year 1813;
and the same gentleman, in 1816, took out a second patent for a
very useful and happy modification of the principle of the former
one, namely, for combining with the acid some mordant, or metal-
lic oxide, capable, after the dyed colour was removed, of having
imparted to it some other colour. This laid the foundation of that
series of processes, in which the chromic acid and its combinations
have since been employed with such great success.
Progress of the Power-Loom. — The power-loom was introduced
into Glasgow in the year 1793, by Mr James Lewis Robertson of
Dumblane. It was invented by the Rev. Dr Cartwright of Don-
caster, and was patented by him in 1774. About 1789 or 1790,
a number of these looms were fitted up in the hulks, to employ the
convicts. They were driven in a manner similar to the inkle-loom,
of which, indeed, the whole machine was a modification. Mr Ro-
bertson having been in London in 1792 or 1793, bought a couple
of the looms from the hulks, and brought them to Glasgow, when
they were fitted up, and wrought in a cellar in Argyle Street. He
removed the driving-bar, and employed a large Newfoundland dog,
walking in a drum or cylinder, to drive the looms. He had an in-
genious old man, William Whyte, from Denny, to manage the
looms ; and, by a son-in-law of this man's, the design of the looms
was communicated to a bleaching and calico-printing establishment
at Milton, near Dumbarton, in 1794, where about forty looms were
fitted up there for weaving calicoes for printing. In 1801, Mr
John Monteith of Glasgow got a pair of looms from Milton, and,
in the course of two years afterwards, had 200 looms at work in a
portion of his spinning establishment at Pollockshaws, near Glas-
gow. In 1803, Mr Thomas Johnston of Bradbury, Cheshire, in-
vented a very beautiful and useful machine for warping and dres-
sing warps; and sometime after, Messrs Radcliffe and Ross of Stock-
GLASGOW. 153
port improved the dressing-machine, and obtained a patent for
these improvements. This machine they also employed in dres-
sing webs to be woven on hand- looms by boys and girls. In 1804,
Mr Monteith prevailed upon Mr Archibald Buchanan of Catrine
to take a pair of looms from him, urging him to improve the ma-
chine. Mr Buchanan worked these looms for a year, with a view
to obtain experience on the subject ; and finding the annoyance of
dressing the web in the loom great, he set about contriving a dres-
sing-machine. In this machine he used cylindrical brushes, and
succeeded at that time pretty well ; but from the obstinacy of the
person engaged to work the machine, and his own want of know-
ledge in the art of dressing, he was led to abandon it. He then
invented a remarkably neat and effective loom, and in 1806 pro-
ceeded to fill a large room with them, and again applied himself
to contrive a dressing-machine ; he abandoned the cylindrical
brushes, and adopted parallel moving ones, similar to those of Rad-
cliff and Ross ; and after much experiment with various success,
and by the exercise of much ingenuity, and perseverance, he suc-
ceeded in effecting a complete machine, and rapidly extending his
looms, with the necessary dressing-machines. In the year 1807,
he had the first complete work in Britain, in which warping, dres-
sing, and weaving by power, were uniformly carried on ; and it may
be said that from this establishment emanated the power-loom
weaving of Britain.
When Mr Buchanan first began the power-loom, from seventy
to eighty shots or picks per minute were considered as great
speed ; but, from improvements since introduced by Mr Buchanan
and others, a speed of a hundred and forty shots per minute is now
obtained. About this time, Messrs Foster and Corbet of Glasgow,
and the Messrs Crums at Thornlie Bank, began to use power-looms.
About the same time, Mr Peter Mansland of Stockport was the
first to introduce the power-loom into England on a practical
scale. In 1808, power-looms were begun at Deanston ; and there,
in 1809, tweels, and in 1810, checks were first woven on power-
looms. In 1818 or 1819, Mr William Perry of Glasgow began the
weaving of figured goods; and sometime since, lappets were woven
by the Messrs Reids of Anderston, Glasgow. The Messrs King
were the first persons celebrated for weaving strong shirting, and
domestics ; and the Messrs Somerville and Sons have recently in-
troduced extensively a very superior manufacture of furniture
stripes and checks, and an infinite variety of similar goods for wo-
154 LANARKSHIRE.
men's dresses, shirting, &c. at their new and splendid works in
Hutchesontown, Glasgow. Mr William Dunn of Duntocher, the
most extensive and successful spinner in Scotland, as an individual,,
has upwards of 600 looms, upon which he executes various very
beautiful plain fabrics. The power-loom is daily extending into
new fields of manufacture, and it is evident that it will ultimately
be the only means of weaving, excepting for fabrics of. very com-
plex patterns.
Steam-looms have increased greatly of late years. In August
1831, the Lancefield Spinning Company employed 635 looms ;
and Messrs Johnston and Galbraith, James Finlay and Company,
and William Dunn, 2405. These looms on an average weave
fourteen yards each per day. Allowing each loom to work 300
days in a year, these four companies would throw off 10,101,000
yards of cloth, which, at the average price of 4^d. per yard, is
L. 189,393, 15s. per annum. The power and hand-looms be-
longing to Glasgow amount to 47,127, viz. steam-looms, 15,127,
hand-looms in the city and suburbs, 18,537 ; in other towns for
Glasgow manufacturers, 13,463. , jfa, ^^ ' O/L.2; $ +{~
The extension of the use of the power-loom has"1 for the last
twenty years borne hard upon the poor hand-loom weavers, who
have long suffered from low wages with exemplary patience. The
evil was at first aggravated by a natural cause. When the weaver
found difficulty in making wages to support his family, the only ap-
parent remedy was to get looms for his children, girls as well as
boys, and to set them to work also. This, when work was to be
had, helped the individual's family, but it brought so much more
weaving labour into operation in the trade previously overstocked,
that the evil was increased, and every succeeding year the prices
of weaving became lower. Many attempts have been made by the
hand-loom weavers to have their prices regulated by act of Parlia-
ment, or Board of Trade ; and in this they have occasionally been
aided by some well-meaning men of rank and influence, but, as
might have been expected, without the least success. For why fix
the wages or prices of the hand-loom weavers, whilst those of the
mason, joiner, farm-servant, &c. are left to be adjusted by the con-
stantly operating natural causes springing from demand and supply ?
If the prices of weaving were fixed, whenever a period of stagna-
tion arrived, the manufacturers would either get weavers to do their
work at lower prices clandestinely, or they would cease to manufac-
ture at all, thereby throwing a great proportion of the weavers com-
GLASGOW. 155
pletely idle. Besides, the hand-weavers had a long period of high
wages, averaging far above the rates paid for labour in other more la-
borious and skilful professions. This arose from the rapid extension
of their trade ; and now, in its decline, they must be contented with
the lower rate of wages, until their superabundant labour is absorbed
by other trades in a state of advancement. This process has been
slowly going on within the last few years, and the wages of hand-
loom labour are now rather advancing. During the rise of hand-
loom weaving in the west of Scotland, the high wages and constant
excitement applied by rival manufacturers, and their agents, led
to much dissipation, especially among the younger men, and the
bulk of the class became prone to dissolute habits ; still, however,
many well educated, intelligent, and decent men were to be found
amongst them ; now the bulk of the class are sober, frugal, intel-
ligent men, which shows that high wages neither lead to decency
nor intelligence, — the sure basis of happiness. It has invariably
happened in this manufacturing community, that, when any class
of operatives obtained for a time wages much above the other
classes, they have in general become dissipated, and they are found
living in more miserable ill-furnished dwellings, than those having
the very lowest rates of wages. Various expedients have from time
to time been resorted to by several of the trades, with a view to
raise or maintain their wages, such as long apprenticeships, heavy
fees, and the like ; and of late, trades unions have been much in
vogue, many of them having rules and practices surpassing the
closest corporations, and outvieing the fiercest tyranny of the dark-
est ages ; and it is strange, that, although these unions have in
most of the trades been successively overthrown, still new unions
urge the hopeless combat.
It bespeaks deplorable ignorance in the mass of the operatives,
who have so allowed themselves to be led by a few designing and
selfish knaves ; and submit to be urged by the violent wrong-head-
ed fools of their order, — a class to be found in all communities.
That the schoolmaster has been successfully abroad, there can be
no doubt ; and that the working-classes are becoming more intel-
ligent, every good man must observe with delight ; but they are
as yet in the transition state, at the point when a " little learning
is a dangerous thing." They are like raw recruits with good wea-
pons in their hands, more likely to wound their neighbours, or
themselves, than to make a successful assault on the enemy. Be-
fore they can be called intelligent, or find themselves truly power-
156 LANARKSHIRE.
ful, they must dip deeper into the pure science of morals, economy,
and politics, which they can only accomplish by reading less of the
base and selfish ravings of a particular description of the periodi-
cal press ; and more of those solid works which calmly, deliberate-
ly, and honestly, treat of the great principles of human nature, and
the essential conventional laws of human society. Great improve-
ment has taken place during the last fifty years in the manners,
habits, and intelligence of the middle classes, and there is nothing
in the moral or physical circumstances of the working-classes to
prevent their making a similar progress, and to their attaining as
high a point in the scale of intelligence and moral worth. Even
now we find many who have attained both, though in the humblest
ranks. Amidst their labours they have quite as much time for
reading as the -generality of men in the middle classes, and it
wants but a resolution, a fashion amongst them, to lead to the
happy results.
It is the duty, as it is the interest, of all masters, and all minis-
ters of religion, and of all good men who are worthy the appella-
tion, to promote within their own sphere, by kindly, free, and fre-
quent discourse, as. well as by pecuniary arrangement, the consum-
mation and progress of this most desirable object.*
* The following note is from the history of the cotton manufacture of Great Bri-
tain, just published, by Mr Edward Baines Jun. of Leeds, a work distinguished for
great talent aud research, — a work which contains more useful information respect-
ing the cotton trade than is to be found in any other, — a work which should be in
the hands of all those who desire a knowledge of that trade which has tended to raise
their country so high in the scale of nations.
" The cotton manufacture of England presents a spectacle unparalleled in the annals
of industry, whether we regard the suddenness of its growth, the magnitude which it
has attained, or the wonderful inventions to which its progress is to be ascribed.
Within the memory of many now living, those machines have been brought into use
which have made so great a revolution in manufactures, as the art of printing effect-
ed in literature. Within the same period, the cotton manufacture of this country has
sprung up from insignificance, and has attained a greater extent than the manufac-
tures of wool and linen combined, though these have existed for centuries,"
" Sixty years si nee, our manufacturers consumedlittle more than THREE MILLION POUNDS
of raw cotton annually, the annual consumption is now TWO HUNDRED AND EIGHTY
MILLION FOUNDS. In 1750, the county of Lancaster, the chief seat of the trade, had a po.
pulation of only 297,400, in 1831, the number of its inhabitants had swelled to
1,336,854. A similar increase has taken place in Lanarkshire, the principal seat of
the manufacture in Scotland. The families supported by this branch of industry are
estimated to comprise A MILLION AND A-H ALF of individuals ; and the goods produced,
not only furnish a large part of the clothing consumed in this kingdom, but supply
nearly one-half of the immense export trade of Britain, find their way into all the
markets of the world, and are even destroying in the Indian market, the competition,
of the ancient manufacture of India itself, the native country of the raw material,
and the earliest seat of the art."
" The causes of this unexampled extension of manufacturing industry are to be
found in a series of splendid inventions and discoveries, by. the combined effect of
which, a spinner now produces as much. yarn in a day, as by the old processes he
could have produced in a year, and cloth which formerly required six or eight months
to bleach, is now bleached in a few hours."
GLASGOW. 157
Glasgow was the first place in Britain where inkle wares were
manufactured. In 1732, Mr Alexander Harvey, at the risk of
his life, brought away from Haerlem, two inkle-looms and a work-
man, and was thereby enabled to introduce the manufacture of the
article into this city. Soon after this, the Dutchman, considering
himself as ill-used by his employer, left Glasgow in disgust, and
communicated his art to Manchester.
The manufacture of green bottles in Glasgow was introduced,
and the first bottle-house erected on the site of the present Ja-
maica Street Bottle-house, in 1730.
It does not appear that the art of turret bell making was practised
in Glasgow till 1735. It was not, however till 1813, when Messrs
Stephen Miller and Company made the bell for the steeple of the
Gorbals church, that large turret bells were made in Glasgow.
Since that period they have made a great number, which are equal
in quality and tone to any that ever came from Holland. In the
steeple at the cross, there are twenty-eight bells, denominated
chimes, diminishing from five feet three inches, to one foot six
inches in circumference. The greater part of them have this in-
scription. " Tuned by Arniston and Cummin, .28 bells for Glas-
gow, 1735."
In 1742, Messrs Ingram and Company fitted up a printfield at
Pollockshaws. The first delft manufactory in Scotland was begun
in Delftfield near the Broomielaw, in 1748. Mr Laurence Dinwid-
die, formerly Provost, and his brother, Governor Dinwiddie, were
two of the first partners.
The first shoe-shop in Glasgow was opened in 1749 by Mr
William Colquhoun; and in 1773, Mr George Macintosh, em-
ploying at that time upwards of 300 shoemakers for the home and
export trade, had his shoe-shop in King Street. Mr Macintosh had
also an agent in Edinburgh, where he employed a number of work-
men. At the same period the Glasgow tan-work company em-
ployed nearly 300 shoemakers, and to these two houses, the whole
export of shoes was confined.
The haberdashery business was first introduced into Glasgow
about 1750, by Mr Andrew Lockhart. But although Mr Lock-
hart was the first person who commenced the haberdashery busi-
ness in this city, it was not till the autumn of 1787 that it was
carried on to any considerable extent. At that period, Mr J. Ross
of Carlisle, opened a shop in SpreulPs new " land," and gave the
haberdashery business a tone which it had never reached before in
158 LANARKSHIRE.
this city. Soon afterwards two of his shopmen, under the firm of
Grey and Laurie, commenced business with an extensive stock of
goods; and the haberdashery business has rapidly increased in
this city since that time.
Mr John Blair and Mr James Inglis were the first persons who
had front shops for the sale of hats in this city. The shops were
both opened in 1756, the former in the Salt Market, and the latter
in the Bridgegate.
The business of silversmith is of considerable standing in Glas-
gow. Mr James Glen, who was a magistrate in 1754, succeeded
Mr Robert Luke. When the latter first opened a shop, the trade
was but little known in the west of Scotland. In 1775, when Mr
Robert Gray, of Blairbeth, commenced business, the following
persons had silversmiths' shops here : Messrs Milne and Camp-
bell, William Napier, David Warnock, Napier and Bain, James
M'Ewan, and Adam Graham. In 1775, the assortment of plate
was inconsiderable ; but in 1 835, there are shops in Glasgow, which
would be considered as valuable in Fleet Street, and elegant in
Bond Street. It is not easy to ascertain when the first woollen-
draper's shop was opened in Glasgow. In 1761, when Mr Patrick
Ewing entered into the trade, it was very limited.
The Iron Trade. — Although the cotton manufacture has been
the staple trade of Glasgow and neighbourhood for a long period,
the iron manufacture in its various branches would appear to be
the one which nature points out as likely to furnish the most ad-
vantageous employment of the labour and capital of the district,
from the inexhaustible stores of the materials for the making of iron
with which it abounds. The local situation of Glasgow, too, is
peculiarly favourable for the cheap conveyance of the bulky and
heavy articles of this manufacture to every quarter of the world.
The city is about equidistant from the Atlantic and German seas,
and not more than twenty-six miles from either, communicating with
the one by the river Clyde, navigable by vessels drawing thirteen
feet water, and with the other by the Forth and Clyde Canal, navi-
gable by vessels also drawing about thirteen feet water. It stands at
the western extremity of the district known by the designation of the
Basin of the Clydes and which, stretching eastward for about twen-
ty-six miles, and of considerable breadth, is one uninterrupted field
of coal, interspersed with bands of rich black ironstone. Into this
mineral field the Monkland Canal penetrates twelve miles, having
its western extremity at Glasgow, communicating there with the
GLASGOW. 159
Forth and Clyde Canal, into which it is introduced. On a paral-
lel line with this water conveyance there is the Garnkirk and Air-
drie Railway, on a part of which locomotive engines were intro-
duced on the 2d July 1831. The Garion-Gill Railway, which is
to be connected with the Garnkirk and Airdrie Railway, and with
the Monkland Canal, will carry the communication with the mi-
neral field eight miles farther, and it is expected that the great
coal field at Coltness will soon be opened up. With these ad-
vantages for obtaining the materials and sending the manufactured
article to market, Glasgow must become the seat of a great iron
manufacture. She has already large establishments for the ma-
nufacture of steam-engines and machinery, and for making the
machines employed in the processes of cotton-spinning, flax-spin-
ning, and wool-spinning. In these works every thing belonging
to or connected with the mill-wright or engineer departments of
the manufacture, is also fabricated. Having these important and
valuable portions of the manufacture already established, and with
the advantages which the district possesses for carrying on the
trade, there is every reason to expect its rapid growth, and its ex-
tension to every article of iron manufacture.
Neilson's Patent Hot-Blast. — An improvement of national im-
portance has lately taken place in the making of iron, of which the
following is a description. Mr James B. Neilson, engineer in this
city, obtained patents in this country and France, for an improve-
ment in the manufacture of iron, which he designated a llot- Blast.
The patentee drew up a description of this improvement, of which
the following is an abridgement :
In 1824, an iron-maker asked Mr Neilson if he thought it pos-
sible to purify the air blown into blast furnaces in a manner simi-
lar to that in which carburetted hydrogen gas is purified ; and from
this conversation Mr Neilson perceived, that he imagined the pre-
sence of sulphur in the air to be the cause of blast-furnaces work-
ing irregularly, and making bad iron in the summer months. Sub-
sequently to this conversation, which had in some measure direct-
ed his thoughts to the subject of blast-furnaces, he received infor-
mation, that one of the Muirkirk iron-furnaces, situated at a con-
siderable distance from the engine, did not work so well as the
others ; which led him to conjecture, that the friction of the air,
in passing along the pipe, prevented an equal volume of the air
getting to the distant furnace, with that which reached to the one
situated close by the engine ; and he at once came to the conclu-
sion, that, by heating the air at the distant furnace, he should in-
160 LANARKSHIRE.
crease its volume in the ratio of the known law according to which
air and gases expand. Thus, if 1000 cubic feet, say at 50° of
Fahrenheit, were pressed by the engine in a given time, and heat-
ed to 600° of Fahrenheit, it would then be increased in volume to
2.1044, and so on for every thousand feet that would be blown into
the furnace. In prosecuting the experiments which this idea sug-
gested, circumstances, however, convinced him, that heating the
air introduced for supporting combustion into air-furnaces would
materially increase its efficacy in this respect ; and, with the view
of putting his suspicions on this point to the test, he instituted the
following experiments : To the nozle of a pair of common smith's
bellows he attached a cast-iron vessel heated from beneath in the
manner of a retort for generating gas, and to this vessel the blow-
pipe by which the forge or furnace was blown was also attached.
The air from the bellows having thus to pass through the heated
vessel above-mentioned, was consequently heated to a high tem-
perature before it entered the forge fire, and the result produced
in increasing the intensity of the heat in the furnace was far be-
yond his expectation, whilst it made apparent the fallacy of the
generally received theory, that the coldness of the air of the at-
mosphere in the winter months was the cause of the best iron being
then produced. But in overthrowing the old theory, he had also
established new principles and facts, in the process of iron-making ;
and by the advice and assistance of Mr Charles Macintosh of Cross-
basket, he applied for, and obtained, a patent, as the reward of his
discovery and improvement.
Experiments on the large scale to reduce iron ore in a founder's
cupola were forthwith commenced at the Clyde Iron Works, belong-
ing to Mr Colin Dunlop, M. P. and were completely successful, in
consequence of which, the invention of Mr Neilson was immediate-
ly adopted at the Calder Iron- Works, the property of Mr William
Dixon, where the blast, by being made to pass through two retorts,
placed on each side of one of the large furnaces, before entering
the furnace, effected an instantaneous change, both in the quantity
and quality of iron produced ; and a considerable saving of fuel.
The whole of the furnaces at Calder and Clyde Iron- Works were
in consequence immediately fitted up on the principle of the hot-
blast, and its use at these works continues to be attended with the
utmost success. It has also been adopted at Wilsontown and
Gartsherrie Works in Scotland, and at several works in England
and France. The air, at first raised to 250° of Fahrenheit, produced
a saving of three-sevenths of fuel in every ton of pig-iron made ;
GLASGOW. 161
and the heating apparatus having since been enlarged, so as to in-
crease the temperature of the blast to 600° of Fahrenheit, and up-
wards, a proportionate saving of fuel is effected, and an immense
additional saving is also acquired by the use of raw coal instead of
coke, which may now be adopted by thus increasing the heat of the
blast, the whole waste incurred in burning the coal into coke being
thus also avoided in the process of iron-making. By the use of
this invention, with three-sevenths of the fuel which he formerly
employed in the cold air process, the iron-maker is now enabled to
make one-third more iron of a superior quality. Were the hot-
blast generally adopted, the saving to the country in the article of
coal would be immense. In Britain about 700,000 tons of iron are
made annually, of which 55,500 tons only are produced in Scot-
land. On these 55,500 tons his invention would save, in the pro-
cess of manufacture, 222,000 tons of coal annually. In England
the saving would be in proportion to the strength and quality of the
coal, and cannot be computed at less than 1,320,000 tons annual-
ly, and taking the price of coals at the low rate of 4s. per ton, a
yearly saving of L. 308,400 Sterling would be effected. Nor are
the advantages of this invention solely confined to iron-making.
By its use, the founder can cast into goods an equal quantity of
iron in greatly less time, and with a saving of nearly half the fuel
employed in the cold air process ; and the blacksmith can produce
in the same time one-third more work, with much less fuel than he
formerly required. In all the processes of metallurgical science,
it will be found of the utmost importance in reducing the ores to a
metallic state.
Iron Works in Scotland in June 1835.
Erected in or about 1 767,
Carron Company,
5 furnaces,
8,000
tons.
1786,
Clyde,
4
_
12,500
_
1786,
Wilsontown,
1
_
3,000
_
1790,
Muirkirk,
2
_
4,000
, * '•
1790,
Cleland,
j
_
2,5(JO
_
1790,
Devon,
3
_
7,000
';' — £
1805,
'Calder,
4
_; -
12,000
_
1805,
Shotts,
]
' '. "
3,000
_
1825,
Monkland, -
3
'•». "
8,000
'•_;••
1828,
Gartsherrie,
3
_
9,000
.. '
1834,
Dundyvan,
2
» Jjl-'
6,000
v-;"'.
29*
75,000
1824, quantity of iron
made in Scotland at this date,
55,500
Increase in 11 years, 19,500
* Exclusive of the above furnaces, there were in preparation in June 1835, six ad-
ditional, viz three at Gartsherrie ; one at Monkland ; one at Calder ; and one at Dun-
dyvan. Those six furnaces will make 13,000 tons of iron annually.
162 LANARKSHIRE.
These works are all in the neighbourhood of Glasgow excepting
five, and none of them are thirty miles distant from that city. Pre-
viously to the use of Neilson's hot-blast, 6000 tons of iron were
made at Clyde Iron- Works in a year. In the formation of each
ton of iron, eight tons of coal, and fifteen cwt. of limestone were
required. In 1833, when the hot-blast was applied, the same
steam-engine made 12,500 tons of iron, each ton requiring only
three tons of coal, and eight cwt. of limestone. The whole of the
above iron-works are using the hot-blast in all their furnaces, ex-
cepting" the Carron Company, who have only yet taken out a license
for one of their furnaces. The license is at the rate of Is. per ton.
The best coal for making iron at the above works does not ave-
rage above 4s. per ton.
Supply of Coals in Glasgow. — In 1831, Dr Cleland ascertained
from coal-masters and authentic documents, that the supply of coals
came from thirty-seven coal pits ; that the quantity brought to
Glasgow was 561,049 tons, and of that quantity 124,000 were ex-
ported, thereby leaving 437,049 tons for the use of families, and
public works, in the city and suburbs. The additional consump-
tion since the above statement was made, may be fairly estimated at
ten per cent, on the home consumption, and five per cent, on the ex-
port, which makes the quantity brought to Glasgow in 1835 amount
to 610,953 tons. The following is the average prices of coals de-
livered in quantities in Glasgow, during a period of eight years.
In 1821, - - 8s. 4d. to 9s. 4d. per ton.
1822, - - 7s. lid. to 8s. lid.
1823, - - 7s. 6d. to 8s. 6d.
1824, - - 7s. lid. to 8s. lid.
1825, - - 11s. Id. to 12s. Id.
1826, - - 9s. 7d. to 10s. 7d.
1827, - - 6s. 3d. to 7s. 3d.
1828, - - 5s. lOd. to 6s. lOd.
There has been no variation in the price of coals from 1828 to
1835. The best hard splint is laid down at the steam-boat quay
at 6s. 3d. per ton.
In 1835, Cannel coal from Lesmahagow, for the formation of gas,
is laid down at the gas works at 1 6s. per ton ; ditto from pits in
the neighbourhood of Glasgow, 10s. 6d. per ton ; average on the
quantity used, 14s. per ton.
The manufacture of flint-glass or crystal was introduced here
by Messrs Cookson and Company of Newcastle in 1777, and is now
carried on to a very considerable extent. Soon after that period,
a number of chemical works were erected in the neighbourhood of
this city. The Chamber of Commerce and Manufactures was in-
GLASGOW. 163
stituted here in 1783, under the auspices of Mr Patrick Colqu-
houn, at that time an eminent merchant in Glasgow. Pullicate
hankerchiefs were begun to be made about the year 1785.
The business of a regular distiller is but of recent date in Scot-
land. Mr William Menzies of Gorbals, Glasgow, was the first
person in the west of Scotland who had a licensed still. He open-
ed his distillery in Kirk Street in 1786, and his license was the
fourth in Scotland ; the houses of Messrs Stein, Haig, and another,
having alone preceded him. At that period, the duties amounted
to about one penny per gallon, and the best malt spirit was sold
at 3s. per gallon.
In 1800, Messrs Tennant, Knox, and Company, established a
chemical work at St Rollox ; now carried on under the firm of
Charles Tennant and Company, for the manufacture of sulphuric
acid, chloride of lime, soda, and soap. This manufactory, the
most extensive of any of the kind in Europe, covers ten acres of
ground, and within its walls there are buildings winch cover 27,340
square yards of ground. In the premises, there are upwards of 100
furnaces, retorts, or fire-places. In one apartment there are platina
vessels to the value of L. 7000. In this great concern, upwards
of 600 tons of coal are consumed weekly.
Messrs Henry Monteith, Bogle, and Company, established a
manufactory for bandana handkerchiefs in 1802, now carried on
under the firm of Henry Monteith and Company. This respect-
able firm also carry on the business of cotton-spinning and calico-
printing. Their establishment at Blantyre is most extensive ;
while their splendid works at Barrowfield are probably unequalled
in the kingdom. With the exception of an attempt on the conti-
nent, which proved unsuccessful, the manufacture of bandanas has
been chiefly confined to this city. The manufacture of silk is but
in its infancy here ; but the throwing and other departments of
the trade bid fair for prosperity.
Gas-Light Company. — A company for lighting Glasgow with
gas was incorporated by act of Parliament in 1817, with a capi-
tal of L. 40,000, which has been increased from time to time to
L. 150,000. The first street lamp was lighted with gas on the
5th September 1818.
The works are on a large scale, and, including subsidiary esta-
blishments in different parts of the town, occupy an area of 14,831
square yards. The principal establishment now forms a square,
164 LANARKSHIRE,
of which one side is occupied by retorts, condensers, and other ap-
paratus ; and round the other three are ranged sheds, under which
cannel coals are stored, to preserve them from moisture. These
sheds are calculated to contain 6000 tons ; and to show at any
time how much coal is on hand, they are divided into compart-
ments, each containing a certain known quantity. The company
have at present 152 retorts, each capable of making 5000 cubic
feet of gas in twenty- four hours. Of these, 105 are required in
winter, and 30 in summer. The gas holders are of a very large
size, and are 8 in number, viz. 4 at the works, and 4 in different
parts of the town. By this arrangement, the pressure of gas is
equalised in all portions of the city and suburbs. Cast-iron
pipes to convey the gas are laid on both sides of the streets, under
the foot pavements, so as not to interfere with the water pipes,
and extend to more than 110 miles in length. In generating gas
for the supply of Glasgow, upwards of 9000 tons of coals are an-
nually consumed. The coke which remains after extracting gas
from cannel coal, and the tar deposited on the cooling of the gas,
are used for heating the retorts, and are found to be very economi-
cal fuel. Nor is the tar the only one of the liquid products that is
turned to profitable account. The ammoniacal water is sold to be
used in making cudbear dye, and the naphtha, in dissolving ca-
outchouc, for manufacturing water-proof cloth. The solution of
lime, after having been employed for purifying the gas, is allowed
to stand until the heavier part is precipitated ; this is then collected
and sold for manure, and the liquor which remains (none of the
gas-work refuse is allowed to run into the common sewers of the
city) is evaporated under the great bars of the retort furnace,
thereby increasing the draught, and, consequently, the intensity
of the fire.
As at other establishments, the gas is purified with lime ; but
in addition to this process, it is made to pass through a solution of
sulphate of iron, by which it is very much improved in purity.
After being purified, it passes through a metre of a very large
size, made by Mr Crosley of London, the patentee. Here the
gas manufactured is measured, and by a beautiful contrivance,
called a tell-tale, which acts by the combined motions of the me-
tre on a common clock, the quantity passing through each hour
of the day or night is registered ; and the extent of any irregula-
rity in the workmen, as well as the time at which it happened, is
at once detected. The company have been peculiarly fortunate
GLASGOW. 1(35
in procuring the services of Mr James B. Neilson, engineer, pa-
tentee of the iron hot-blast. To the scientific attainments of this
distinguished manager, the company are chiefly indebted for their
uncommon success, and for the most perfect and beautiful esta-
blishment of the kind in the kingdom.
In May 1835, the directors of the Gas Company drew up,
printed, and circulated a short history of their affairs, of which the
following is an abstract. In the act of 1825, the company became
bound that the dividends should not exceed 10 per cent, on their
stock per annum. From the commencement of the undertaking,
they supplied the city and suburbs of Glasgow with gas, at prices
below what were charged in any other city in the empire.
In 1818, the period at which the lighting of the city commen-
ced, the charge for a single jet to eight o'clock was 12s. per annum.
Since that period, the company have been enabled to make four
successive reductions of the rates. In 1819, they reduced the
rates L. 1800 per annum; in 1822, L. 1200; in 1830, L. 2300;
and in 1833, L. 1600. The charge for a single jet lighted to eight
o'clock, is now reduced to 6s. 6d. per annum. The aggregate
amount of the rates paid by the consumers in 1835 is L. 30,000,
and the number of payers about 10,000.
Chemical Works. — The process for dyeing Turkey or Adria-
nople red, was first introduced into Britain by Mr George Mac-
intosh, at a dye-house which he established at Glasgow. The im-
mense importance since attained by this branch of commerce in
Britain owes its origin entirely to this circumstance.
Mr George Macintosh also commenced the manufacture of the
dye stuff called cudbear, in Glasgow. This is a modification of
the Florentine manufacture of orcella, or orseille, and is still car-
ried on, on a large scale, by Mr Charles Macintosh, the son of
the first named gentleman.
In the year 1786, Mr Charles Macintosh introduced from Hol-
land, the manufacture of sugar of lead, saccharum saturni, or ace-
tate of lead. This article had previously been obtained by im-
portation from Holland ; but in the course of a very short time, this
state of matters was reversed, by Mr Macintosh exporting ihe ar-
ticle in considerable quantities to Rotterdam, the place from which
a knowledge of the manufacture was first obtained. Independent
of its use in medicine, sugar of lead is employed on the large scale
in calico-printing, in the formation of the mordant called red co-
lour liquor ; in which process a double chemical decomposition is
LANARK. M
id6 LANARKSHIRE.
effected by the addition of the acetate of lead, to an aqueous solu-
tion of alum (sulphate of alumina.) Sulphate of lead is thus pre-
cipitated, whilst acetate of alumina, constituting the mordant, re-
mains in solution. About 1789, Mr Macintosh modified this pro-
cess by the substitution of acetate of lime, instead of acetate of lead.
A similar decomposition, affording acetate of alumina in solution,
in this instance takes place. By this process the selling price of
the red colour liquor became lowered from three shillings per gal-
lon, to sixpence, and under, per gallon. This process was never
patented, and as it speedily became appropriated by others, the
inventor derived scarcely any advantage from it. Many thousand
pounds Sterling were annually expended on malt and barley, in the
manufacture of saccharum saturni, at Glasgow, between the year
1786, the period of the first introduction of the manufacture, and
1 820, when pyroligneous acid prepared from wood was substituted
for the malt vinegar, previously employed in this process.
In 1793, Mr Charles Macintosh introduced at Pollockshaws,
numerous and important improvements in the art of dyeing fancy
muslins, and in 1795, he established the first alum-work erected in
Scotland, at Hurlet, in Renfrewshire, about six miles from Glasgow.
Two other alum-works at Campsie, and in the parish of Baldernock
in Stirlingshire, were shortly after established through his interven-
tion, which works now yield an annual supply of 2000 tons of alum.
The decomposed aluminous schistus found in the coal wastes is
the material employed at these places in the manufacture of alum,
— the price of which has been reduced from L. 25 per ton, at which
it was when these works were established, to Lc 12 and under per
ton. Remarks upon the influence exerted by this cause, on the
various branches of dyeing, calico-printing, tanning, and paper-
making, — in all of which the use of alum is indispensable, — would
be superfluous.
In 1799, Mr Charles Macintosh prepared for the first time
chloride of lime, in the dry form, which has since been denominat-
ed bleaching salt, or bleaching powder. This process he patented,
and its manufacture, on a large scale, was carried on by Mr Mac*
intosh and Mr Charles Tennant of St Rollox for many years. Mr
Tennant had previously obtained a patent for the preparation of
chloride of lime in the liquid state, denominated bleaching liquor,
of which he was the inventor. The immense chemical works at
St Rollox, since conducted on a scale of such magnitude and per-
fection by Mr Tennant, originated in this partnership.
In 1808, Mr Charles Macintosh established at the alum-works at
GLASGOW. 167
Campsie, the manufacture of Prussian blue, triple-prussiate of po-
tass, and iron or ferro-prussiate of potash. Soon afterwards he ap-
plied, for the first time, for the purpose of dyeing woollen, silk, and
cotton, the salt termed triple-prussiate of potash, or hydro-ferro-
cyanic acid. This salt had only previously been known as a che-
mical reagent, prepared from Prussian blue, and selling at from
5s. to 6s. per ounce. Its use as a dye stuff, in substitution for in-
digo, is now universal over Europe ; the price being reduced to
about 2d. per ounce, or 2s. 6d. per pound. This substance is pro-
cured from the horns and hoofs of animals, as also the waste parings
and clippings of horns and whalebone ; and for these substances,
and pot and pearl ashes, also employed in the process, a great an-
nual outlay takes place.
The process for rendering fabrics of silk, woollen, cotton, or
linen, waterproof, by means of a layer of caoutchouc, or Indian
rubber, previously rendered liquid by solution in naphtha, being in-
troduced between two separate pieces of cloth, which are subse-
quently thus made to adhere perfectly and permanently together
by pressure, is also the invention of Mr Charles Macintosh. He
for some time carried on the manufactory of these articles at Glas-
gow; but some time ago the business was transferred to Manchester.
Mr Macintosh obtained a patent for this process. Previous to the intro-
duction of this manufacture, the importation of caoutchouc into Bri-
tain was merely trifling, — its use being limited almost entirely to,
stationary purposes ; now it is imported in large quantities ; and, in
order to supply the demand for it, it is understood, that the pro-
prietors of several West India estates are planting for cultivation,
the different species of Irtropha elastica and Urceola elastica, from
which it is procured in the state of a milky juice, which coagulates
on exposure to the atmosphere.
The process for converting iron into steel, by submitting it, in-
closed in close vessels, to the action of carburetted hydrogen gas,
is also the invention of Mr Charles Macintosh. This is also a
patent process.
In 1823, the Royal Society of London marked their sense of
Mr Charles Macintosh's services in the cause of science, by elect-
ing him a Fellow.
The calico-printing works of Messrs James and John Kibble and
Company of Glasgow, on the banks of the Leven, are allowed to
be the most complete of any in the kingdom.
Cashmere Yarn. — In 1830, the weaving of Cashmere shawls in
this country had become so important a branch of trade, as to in-
168 LANARKSHIRE.
duce the Board of Trustees for the Encouragement of Arts and Ma-
nufactures in Scotland to offer a premium of L. 300 Sterling to the
first person who should establish the spinning of Cashmere wool
upon the French principle in this country. Up to that time the
French had exclusively enjoyed the advantages of that trade ; and
all Cashmere yarns used in this country in the manufacture of shawls
and other fabrics had to be imported from France. The offer of
this handsome premium, together with the other advantages which
the carrying on of the trade held out, induced Captain Charles
Stuart Cochrane, of the Royal Navy, to attempt, whilst in Paris, to
find out the secret of this manufacture, which, after many difficul-
ties and much delay, he at last accomplished ; and, in 1831, he
took out patents for the introduction of this kind of spinning to the
three kingdoms. In the autumn of that year, he prevailed on Messrs
Henry Houldsworth and Sons, of Glasgow, to purchase his patents,
and they accordingly commenced the spinning of Cashmere yarn.
After many difficulties, they succeeded, in 1832, in making better
yarn than the French, and in the following year received from the
Board of Trustees the L. 300 Sterling as the premium due for the
establishing of the spinning of Cashmere yarn in this country.
Since then, the manufacture has gone on but slowly, though gra-
dually increasing in extent, and the day is not far distant when it
may be hoped that the beauty of the goods made from Cashmere
yarn will be duly appreciated by our ladies. One thing is grati-
fying, that, notwithstanding the cheapness of labour in France, and
the long experience the French have had in this manufacture, we
are quite capable at this moment of successfully competing with
them in the market, although the French yarns can be admitted
free of duty.
Establishment of Merino Yarn Spinning in Scotland. — At the
same time that the late Captain C. S. Cochrane was engaged in
Paris in finding out the manufacture of Cashmere yarn, his atten-
tion was attracted by the superiority of French merino dresses over
those made in this country ; and on inquiry he found that the peculiar
manner in which the French spun the merino yarn was the prin-
cipal cause of this difference. Captain Cochrane, accordingly, got
all the information he could possibly Obtain respecting this manu-
facture, and in 1333 established in Glasgow this peculiar mode of
spinning merino yarn on the French principle. The Board of Trus-
tees offered a premium of L. 300 Sterling to the introducer and
establisher of this manufacture; which premium Captain Cochrane
accordingly received in 1834, — his merino yarn being pronounced
GLASGOW. 169
equal, if not superior, to the best French yarns. After this satis-
factory result, the business was extended to meet the demand of
the trade ; but, unfortunately for the spirited introducer, death cut
him short before his plans were fully brought to a profitable result.
The business is in the meantime carried on by Messrs Hen-
ry Houldsworth and Sons, for the benefit of Captain Cochrane's
partner ; and from the soft and beautiful goods which can be made
from this yarn, almost rivalling the Cashmere itself, there seems
little doubt but that in a short time, when it becomes well known,
the merinos of this country will successfully compete with those of
the French.
Timber Trade. — The merchants of Glasgow send numerous ships
to the East and West Indies, to America, and to the continent of Eu-
rope; but there is one firm which merits particular attention. Messrs
Pollock, Gilmour and Company, who are chiefly engaged in the
North American timber trade, have eight different establishments
that ship annually upwards of six MILLIONS cubic feet of timber ; to
cut and to collect which, and to prepare it for shipment, requires
upwards of FIFTEEN THOUSAND MEN, AND six HUNDRED HORSES
AND OXEN in constant employment ; and for the accommodation
of their trade, they are owners of twenty-one large ships, the register
tonnage of which is twelve thousand and five tons, navigated by five
hundred and two seamen, carrying each trip upwards of twenty
thousand tons of timber at 40 cubic feet per ton. All of which
ships make two, and several of them three voyages annually. It
may be truly said that this establishment is unequalled in Europe.
Messrs James and William Campbell and Company were the first
in this city to occupy as a warehouse for the retail of soft goods,
the upper flats of a tenement, instead of shops on the ground or
street floor, and although the practice of having retail places of
business on the second floor has since become pretty general in
Glasgow, it is still a peculiarity of this city. The Messrs Camp-
bells, too, were the first who successfully resisted the practice, which
had previously obtained very generally in Glasgow, in their line of
business, of what in Scotch phrase, is termed " prigging," or de-
viating from the first price asked for goods sold in retail. They
commenced business in 1817, in the Trades Land, head of Salt-
market Street, from whence they removed in 1823, to premises
built by themselves, and which they still occupy in Candleriggs
Street,
This establishment, now embracing the wholesale as well as the
170 LANARKSHIRE.
retail business, the largest of the kind in the King's dominions
out of London, contains 30,003 square feet of flooring. In these
premises the public are supplied with nearly every description of
goods of woollen, linen, cotton, and silk manufacture, and the ar-
rangements are such that purchasers of the smallest quantities for
private use are equally attended to and accommodated with those
who make the most extensive purchases, for either home or foreign
consumpt. Upwards of eighty persons are employed in the sale-
departments of these warehouses, and the following is a note of
the respective amounts of six years sales, which not only shows
the progressive increase of the Messrs Campbells' business, but
exhibits a fair criterion of the rapid increase, and commercial im-
provement of the city of Glasgow.
In 1818, . L. 41,022 6 4 In 1830, . L. 250,899 9 6
1824, . 156,284 2 1 1832, . 312,207 5 8
1827, . 183,385 6 10 1834, . 423,021 4 7
Besides these gross sales the company manufacture to the value
of from L. 70,000 to L. 80,000 annually of the goods thus dis-
posed of, giving employment from this department to nearly
2000 people. It may likewise be remarked, that, although se-
veral London houses turn a greater sum annually, in consequence
of dealing largely in the more valuable descriptions of silk goods,
it is understood that the Messrs Campbell serve as great a num-
ber of customers as any of those highly respectable metropolitan
establishments.
The Tea Trade. — The Camden was the first vessel unconnect-
ed with the East India Company which brought a cargo of tea
direct from Canton to Britain. She was consigned by China mer-
chants to Mr William Mathieson of Glasgow, and her full cargo of
Bohea, Congou, Cape Congou, Campio, and Souchong, was sold
in the Rojal Exchange sale-room of this city on the 14th of No-
vember 1834. A number of London and Edinburgh merchants
purchased at the sale. The whole was sold at high prices.
V. — Civic ECONOMY.
Literature. — From the commercial enterprise which engages
the time and attention of its inhabitants, this city cannot boast of
a literary character. There are many individuals, however, of
cultivated minds and extensive attainments, some of whom have
formed themselves into societies for the promotion of literature
and science. About the middle of the last century a literary so-
ciety was established, consisting chiefly of the professors and cler-
gymen of the city and neighbourhood, and reckoned amongst its
GLASGOW. 171
distinguished members, Doctors Adam Smith, Trail, and Reid,
and Mr John Millar, the celebrated Professor of Law. A litera-
ry and commercial society was formed about the beginning of the
present century, and is composed of a number of gentlemen who
meet for the discussion of literary and commercial topics. Dur-
ing the twenty-seven years in which records have been kept, up-
wards of 200 essays have been read by the society.
University. — The University of Glasgow is a corporate body,
consisting of a Chancellor, Rector, Dean, Principal, with Profes-
sors and Students.
In 1451, Nicolas V., a pope distinguished by his talents and
erudition, and particularly by his munificent patronage of Grecian
literature, after having composed the great western schism, which
for more than half a century had distracted the states of Christen-
dom, was pleased to issue a Papal Edict, or Bull, establishing a
studium generate^ or university in the city of Glasgow ; the situa-
tion of which is described in the narrative as being, by the salubri-
ty of the climate, and the abundance of all the necessaries of life,
peculiarly adapted for such an institution. The instrument bears
that James II. King of Scotland had applied to the See of Rome
for this grant ; for although an independent sovereign might claim
the power of erecting universities within his own dominions, he
could not confer on the licentiates and doctors, who derived their
qualifications from such seminaries, the privilege of acting as
teachers and regents in all the seats of general study throughout
the bounds of the Catholic church, without any examination or
approbation, in addition to that which they received when they ob-
tained their academical degrees. This faculty was bestowed by
apostolical authority on the graduates of the University of Glasgow,
along with all other liberties, immunities, and honours, enjoyed
by the masters, doctors, and students, in the University of Bologna.
The University at first had received no endowments, and was
for years possessed of no property except the University purse, into
which were put some small perquisites on the conferring of degrees,
and the patronage of two or three small chaplainaries. At first
the University had no buildings of its own. It held its meetings
in the chapter-house of the Blackfriars, or in the cathedral. But
these defects were in some measure supplied by the liberality of
James first Lord Hamilton, an ancestor of the noble house of
Hamilton, who, in the year 1459, gave to the Principal, and other
Regents of the College of Arts, for their use and accommodation,
172 LANARKSHIRE.
a tenement with its pertinents, in the High Street of Glasgow, to
the north of the Blackfriars, together with four acres of land in
the Dow-hill. In the deed, the noble donor required the Princi-
pal and Regents, on their first admission, to declare on oath, that
they would commemorate James Lord Hamilton, and Lady Eu-
phemia, his spouse, the Countess of Douglas, as the founders of
the college. Amongst other benefactors of the college, distin-
guished by their donations, chiefly for the support of poor students,
were Ann Duchess of Hamilton, Robina Countess of Forfar,
William Earl of Dundonnell, the Duke of Chandos, the Duke
of Montrose, Leighton, Archbishop of Glasgow, Boulter, Bishop
of Armagh, Mr Snell, Dr Williams, Dr Walton, Mr Zachary
Boyd, and Dr William Hunter.
The Reformation produced great disorder in the University, its
members being clergymen of the Catholic persuasion, and its chief
support being derived from the church. In 1577, James VI. pre-
scribed particular rules with regard to the college, and the forma-
tion of its government, and made a considerable addition to its
funds. The charter by which the King made these regulations,
and gave that property, still continues to be the magna charta of
the college, and is known by the name of Nova Erectio.
The business of the University is transacted in three distinct
meetings, viz. those of the Senate, the Comitia, and the Faculty.
The meeting of senate consists of the Rector, the Dean, the
members of Faculty, and the other Professors. The Rector pre-
sides in this meeting, except when affairs are managed, for which
the Dean is competent. Meetings of the senate are held for the
election and admission of the Chancellor and Dean of Faculty,
for the admission of the Vice- Chancellor and Vice-Rector, for
electing a representative to the General Assembly, for conferring
degrees, and for the management of the libraries, and other mat-
ters belonging to the University. The constituent members of the
comitia are, the Rector, the Dean, the Principal, the Profes-
sors, and the matriculated students of the University.* The Rec-
* The royal visitation of the University, in 1717 and 1718, deprived the Students
of the right of voting in the election of the Rector, and appointed the election to be
made by the plurality of votes in a University meeting, composed of the Chancellor,
Dean, and Principal, (the office of Rector being vacant,) and all the Professors and
Regents ; the said members being restricted to a man of probity and judgment,
of known affection to the government in Church and State, who is not a minister of
the gospel, nor bears any other office in the University, It is believed that the re-
gulations of this visitation originated in some feelings and jealousies connected with
the political circumstances of the country, and had reference to the wish of persons
attached to the interests of the Stuart family, being raised to situations of importance
and influence.
GLASGOW. 173
tor or Vice- Rector presides in this meeting. Meetings of the co-
mitia are held for the election and admission of the Rector, for
hearing public disputations in any of the faculties, previously to
the conferring of degrees, for hearing the inaugural discourses of
the Principal and Professors, previously to their admission to their
respective offices, and for promulgating the laws of the University,
and other acts of the University and College courts. The meeting
of faculty, or college meeting, consists of the Principal, the Pro-
fessors of Divinity, Church History, Oriental Languages, Natural
Philosophy, Moral Philosophy, Mathematics, Logic, Greek, Hu-
manity, Civil Law, Medicine, Anatomy, and Practical Astronomy.
The Principal presides in this meeting, and has a casting but not
a deliberative vote. The members of faculty have the administra-
tion of the whole revenue and property of the College, consisting
of heritage, feus, teinds, and bequests, with the exception of a few
particular bequests, in which the Rector and other officers of the
University are specially named. They have likewise the right of
exercising the patronage of eight professorships, vested in the Col-
lege. They present a minister to the parish of Govan, and have
the gift of various bursaries. In the exercise, however, of one of
their privileges, viz. the election of professors, the Rector and
Dean of Faculty have a vote.
The officer of highest dignity in the University is the Chancellor,
who is elected by the members of senate. He is the head of the
University, and by himself or deputy has the sole privilege of con-
ferring academical degrees upon persons found qualified by the
Senatus Academicus. The office of Chancellor is held during life.
The Rector is annually elected by the Dean, the Principal, the Pro-
fessors, and the matriculated students. The electors are divided,
according to their respective birth-places, into four nations, as.be-
fore-mentioned. As the majority of the members of each nation
constitutes one vote, in case of an equality, the Rector going out of
office has the casting vote ; and in his absence, the Rector imme-
diately preceding. The election is always held on the 15th of No-
vember, except when it falls upon Sunday, and then the election
is held on the following day, and the same person is generally re-
The royal visitation of 1727, prescribed a number of regulations which have been
in force ever since. Inter alia, the right of electing a Rector was declared to be in
all the matriculated Members, Moderators or Masters, and students. Some altera-
tions were made on the distribution of the supposts into nations. The Natlo Glot-
tiana sive Clydcsdalice and the Natio dicta Rotltsay, continued as originally settled.
But into the Nutio Laudoniana sive Thevidalioe were introduced, all matriculated
members from England, and the British Colonies ; and the Natio Albanian sive Trans-
forthiatui) was to include all foreigners.
174 LANARKSHIRE.
elected for a second year. It is the duty of the Rector to preserve
the rights and privileges of the University, to convoke those meet-
ings in which he presides, and with his assessors, whom he himself
appoints, to exercise that academical jurisdiction amongst the stu-
dents themselves, or between the students and citizens, which is
bestowed upon most of the universities of Europe. The Dean
of Faculties is elected by the senate. This office is held for two
years, and by virtue of it, he is entitled to give directions with re-
gard to the course of study, and to judge together with the Rector,
Principal, and Professors, of the qualifications of those who desire
to be created Masters of Arts, Doctors of Divinity, &c. The foun-
dation of the office of Principal, almost coeval with that of the Uni-
versity, was confirmed by James VI. in 1577. It is in the appoint-
ment of the King. The Principal has the ordinary superintendence
of the deportment of all members of the University, and is Prima-
rius Professor of Divinity. The Professors of the University of
Glasgow may be distributed according to the departments of know-
ledge to which they are respectively assigned, into four distinct fa-
culties ; those of arts, theology, law, and medicine.
The Faculty of Arts comprehends the Professors of Latin or Hu-
manity, Greek, Logic, Ethics, Natural Philosophy, Mathematics,
Practical Astronomy, and Natural History. To this faculty maybe
added the Professors of Mathematics, Astronomy, and Natural His-
tory. The faculty of Theology includes, besides the Principal, who,
in right of his office, is first Professor of Divinity, three other Pro-
fessorships, those of Divinity, Church History, and Oriental Lan-
guages. The faculty of Law consists of a single Professorship, that of
Civil Law. The faculty of Medicine comprehends the Professorships
of Anatomy, Medicine, Materia Medica, Surgery, Midwifery, Che-
mistry, and Botany. The Professors of Greek, Logic, Ethics, and
Natural Philosophy, whose chairs were the earliest endowed in the
University, are denominated Regents, and enjoy in right of their re-
gency certain trifling privileges beyond their brother professors.
The Regius Professors are those whose chairs have been recently
founded, endowed, and nominated by the Crown, and they are mem-
bers of Senate only, not of the Faculty of the college, viz. natural his-
tory, surgery, midwifery, chemistry, botany, and materia medica,*
* Office-Rearers and Professors in 1835.
Inducted Inducted /. Faculty of Arts.
1 781. Chancellor, Duke of Montrose. 1831. Humanity, W. M. Ramsay, M. A.
1834. Lord Rector, Lord Stanley. 1821. Greek, Sir D.K. Sandford, B.C. L.
1834. Dean of Faculties, Sir A. Campbell. 1827. Logic, Robert Buchanan, M. A.
1823. Principal, D. Macfarlan, D. D. . 1797. Moral Philosophy, J.Mylne,M. A.
GLASGOW. 175
The University Library was founded in the fifteenth century. It
contains an extensive and valuable collection of books, amongst
which are many beautiful editions of the classics. It is always in-
creasing by donations of copies of every new work published in
this country, as well as by books purchased by the fees received
at matriculation, assisted by fees received from graduates, and by
an annual payment from all students, who are entitled to the use
of the library under certain limitations.
A small botanic garden adjoining the college was prepared for
the use of the lecturer in botany in 1753 ; but, having from various
causes, become unfit for its purposes, a very valuable botanical gar-
den, consisting of eight acres, was formed in the neighbourhood of
the city, by the citizens of Glasgow. The University subscribed
L.2000 towards its erection, for the privilege of their Professor of
Botany lecturing in the hall in the garden, and Government has sub-
sequently given a similar sum in support of it. This garden, which
was opened in the spring of 1818, is, for the variety of rare plants
from almost every part of the world, not exceeded by any botanical
garden in the kingdom.
The founder of the Hunterian Museum was the celebrated Wil-
liam Hunter, M. D. who was born in the parish of East Kilbride, in
the neighbourhood of Glasgow, in 1710. By his will in 1781, he be-
queathed to the Principal and Professors of the College, his splen-
did collection of books, coins, paintings, anatomical preparations,
&c. and appropriated L. 8000 for the erection of a building for
their reception. The collection is valued at L. 65,000, viz. medals,
L. 30,000, books, L. 15,000, pictures, L. 10,000, miscellaneous,
L. 10,000. The collection has been considerably increased of late
years. The public are admitted every lawful day, on payment of Is.
There are twenty-seven bursaries connected^ with the College,
varying from L. 5 to L. 40. They are held from four to six years.
Besides these, there are two very valuable exhibitions. In the year
Inducted Inducted III. Faculty of Law.
1803. Natural Philosophy, William 1801. Civil Law, R. Davidson, Advocate.
Meikleham, LL. U. IV. Faculty of Medicine.
1831. Mathematics, J. Thomson, LL.D. 1790. Anatomy, James Jeffray, M. D.
1803. Practical Astronomy, James Cou- 1827. Theory and Practice of Medicine,
per, D.D. Charles Badham, M. D.
1829." Natural History, William Cou- 1815.* Surgery, John Burns, M. D.
per, M. D. 1 834. • Midwifery, W. Cumin, M. D.
//. Faculty of Theology. .1818. * Chemistry, T. Thomson, M. D.
1814. Divinity, S. MacGill/1). D. 1821.* Botany, Win. Jackson Hooker,
1807. Church History, William Mac- LL.D.
Turk, D. D. 1831.* Materia Medica, Jn. Couper,M.D.
1831 . Oriental Languages, W. Fleming, 1828. Diseases of the Eye, William Mac-
D. D. kenzie, M. D. Lecturer.
* Those with an asterisk are Regius Professors.
\
176 LANARKSHIRE.
1 688, Mr John Snell, with a view to support Episcopacy in Scot-
land, devised to trustees a considerable estate near Leamington,
in Warwickshire, for educating Scotch students at Baliol College,
Oxford. By the rise in the value of land, and the improvements
which have from time to time been made on that estate, the fund
now affords about L. 130 per annum to each of ten exhibitioners.
Another foundation, by John Warner, Bishop of Rochester, of L.20
per annum, to each of four Scotch students of the same college,
during their residence at Oxford, is generally given to the Glasgow
exhibitioners ; so that four of them have a stipend of L. 150 per an-
num. The exhibitions are tenable for ten years, but vacated by mar-
riage, or on receiving preferment of a certain amount. The right
of nomination belongs to the Principal and Professors of the faculty.
Candidates, to be eligible to SnelPs exhibitions, must first be na-
tives of Scotland, which the master of Baliol re'quires to be proved
by the production of an extract from the parish register of births;
secondly, they must have attended as public students at least two
sessions at the University of Glasgow, or one session there, and
two at some other Scottish university. Warner's exhibitions are
in the gift of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and Bishop of Roches-
ter, who usually nominate on the recommendation of the master of
Baliol College. Amongst the distinguished persons of several pro-
fessions who have been educated on Mr SnelPs foundation, may be
mentioned Dr John Douglas, Bishop of Salisbury; Dr Adam Smith;
and Dr Matthew Baillie.
This University has had from its origin men of the highest talent
and literary eminence among its professors and office-bearers. The
names of Melville, Baillie, Leishman, Burnet, Simpson, Hutchi-
son, Black, Cullen, Adam Smith, Reid, Miller, and Richardson,
are conspicuous; and the names of Henry Dundas, Edmund Burke,
Sir James Mackintosh, and other distinguished individuals, are to
be found in the list of rectors.
Education. — The attention which has been paid to education in
Scotland for centuries past has been acknowledged all over Europe.
Amidst all the tumult and violence of civil contention, and at a
time when the very existence of the Presbyterian church was at
stake, the subject of education and of schools was never overlooked.
By act 43 Geo. III. cap. 54, the salaries of parochial school-
masters, whose schools are not entirely confined in royal burghs,
are to be fixed, from and after the 1 1th September 1803, at a sum
of from 300 to 400 merks Scots, by the minister, and the heritors
whose lands in the parish amount to L. 100 Scots. In twenty-five
GLASGOW. 177
years after the above period, or such after period as the salary
shall be fixed, these heritors and minister are to modify a new sa-
lary, according to the average price of oatmeal, to be ascertained
by the Exchequer, of the value of from one and a-half to two chal-
ders, and so on from twenty-five years to twenty-five years; and
when there is not a proper school-house, a house for the school-
master, and a garden for him, containing at least one-fourth of a
Scotch acre, the heritors of the parish must provide these.*
Grammar-School. — This seminary is of remote antiquity, but,
like some similar institutions of long standing, little is known of its
early history. There was a grammar-school at Glasgow in the
early part of the fourteenth century. It depended immediately on
the cathedral church, and the chancellor of the diocese had not
only the appointment of the masters, but also the superintendence
of whatever related to education in the city. The grammar-school
continued to be a distinct establishment after the erection of the
University, and considerable care appears to have been taken to
supply it with good teachers. In 1494, Mr Martin Wan, Chan-
cellor of the Metropolitan Church of Glasgow, brought a complaint
before Archbishop Blackadder against one Dwne, a priest of the
diocese, for teaching scholars in grammar, and children in inferior
branches, by himself apart, openly and publicly in the said city,
without the allowance, and "in opposition to the will of the Chan-
cellor. The bishop having heard parties, and examined witnesses,
decided, with the advice of his chapter, and of the rector and clerks
of the University, in favour of the Chancellor. As far back as the
sixteenth century, the situation of the master of the grammar-school
was highly respectable ; he was to be found among the non-regen-
tes, nominated to elect the Rector, and to examine the graduates.
On the 28th of October 1595, the Presbytery directed the Regents
in the college " to try the Irish scholars in the grammar-school,
tuching the heads of religion." At that period the school met
at five o'clock in the morning. Mr John Blackburn, who was mas-
ter of the grammar-school, and Lord Rector of the University in
1592, 1593, resigned his mastership in 1615, on being appointed
minister of the Barony Church.
* The celebrated Dr South has, with much ability, enforced the great utility to be
derived from attention to schoolmasters. " There is no profession," he observes,
" which has, or can have, a greater influence on the public. An able and well prin-
cipled schoolmaster is one of the most meritorious subjects in any prince's dominions;
and schoolmasters are the great depositaries and trustees of the peace of the nation,
having its growing hopes and fears in their hands. Nay, schoolmasters have a more
powerful influence upon the spirits of men than preachers themselves; for they
have to deal with younger and tender minds, and consequently have the advantage of
making the first and deepest impression upon them."
178 LANARKSHIRE.
The records of the town-council have been searched in vain for
the plan or system by which the school was conducted prior to the
year 1707. Since that period, it has undergone various changes
in the management and system of education. Sometimes the
school was under the control of a rector, and at other times the
office was laid aside. Sometimes the course consisted of five, and
at others of only four years. In 1830, .the office of rector was
abolished, and each of the four masters had the entire charge of
finishing his own scholars during the four years. In 1834, this
seminary underwent a very material alteration. From being a
grammar-school, it may now be considered as an academy. Two
of the masterships for Latin and Greek have been suppressed ;
and, in lieu of these, teachers of English grammar, elocution,
French, Italian, German, writing, geography, and mathematics,
have been introduced, and the name of the seminary has been
changed to that of the High School The school is under the im-
mediate management of a committee of the town-council, aided
by the advice and assistance of the reverend clergy of the city,
and learned professors of the University.
Schools. — In a large community like that of Glasgow, where
schools are ever shifting, it is difficult to ascertain the exact num-
ber; but the following abstract from Dr Cleland's Annals of Glas-
gow, lately published, will give the reader an idea of the extent of
education in this city. In that work, the names of 144 teachers
are published, from which it appears that, exclusively of the Uni-
versity and 13 institutions where youth were educated, there were
144 schools of every description ; that, including the public insti-
tutions, there were 16,799 scholars, of whom 65 16 were taught gratis
in the charity or free schools. These schools were all in the dis-
trict of the royalty, containing about 75,000 souls. It appears from
the same work, that Sunday schools were established in 1786; that
there were 106 schools, 158 teachers, and 4668 scholars, viz. 2235
boys, and 2433 girls, besides 3 adult schools. An infant school so-
ciety was instituted in 1826, and in 1827, the Glasgow Model
School, the first in Scotland on the training system, was opened here
under the auspices of Mr David Stow. In 1835, there are 6 in-
fant schools, viz. the Model School in Salt Market, a school in
Drygate, Chalmers' Street, Marlborough Street, John Street, and
Cowcaddens ; and two school-houses are about to be built in Gor-
bals, and one in Anderston. As it would be tedious to quote the
rate of wages in the various schools, it may be sufficient, to say,
that they are from two to fifteen shillings per quarter.
GLASGOW. 179
The Lord Advocate having directed the parochial clergy of
Scotland to furnish him with a detailed account of the schools in
their respective parishes, a valuable statistical document may be ex-
pected in the course of the session of Parliament 1 836. This, in
connection with the periodical Reports of the Committee of the Ge-
neral Assembly for increasing the means of Education and Religious
Instruction in Scotland, will exhibit the amount of education in a
very satisfactory manner. The Committee's Report for 1 835 gives a
detailed account of five of the Glasgow parishes, viz. the College,
Tron, St David's, St John's, and St James's. The Report is ac-
companied by a table showing the amount of population, number
of parochial, endowed, Sabbath, and week day evening schools,
number of scholars, salaries of teachers, number of persons un-
able to read and write, &c.
Andersonian University. — This seminary, founded by Mr John
Anderson, Professor of Natural Philosophy in the University of
Glasgow, on the 7th of May 1795, and endowed by him with a
valuable philosophical apparatus, museum, and library, was incor-
porated by a seal of cause from the magistrates and council of this
city, on the 9th of June 1796. The university is subject to the
inspection of the Lord Provost, and other official persons, as ordi-
nary visitors, and is placed under the immediate superintendence
of eighty-one trustees, who are elected by ballot, and remain in
office for life, unless disqualified by non-attendance. The trustees
consist of nine classes of citizens, viz. tradesmen, agriculturists,
artists, manufacturers, physicians and surgeons, lawyers, divines,
philosophers, and, lastly, kinsmen or namesakes. The trustees
elect annually by ballot nine of their number as managers, to whom
the principal affairs of the university are intrusted during the year.
The managers elect by ballot from their number the president,*
secretary, and treasurer. Although the views of the venerable
and celebrated founder embraced a complete circle of liberal edu-
cation, adapted to the improved state of society, it was found con-
venient at first to limit the plan to natural philosophy, chemistry,
mathematics, and geography.
* Presidents since the origin of the University
1796. Peter Wright, M. D. 1810. Joshua Hey wood.
1797. Alexander Oswald. 1811. James Cleland, LL. D.
1798. William M'Neil. 1812. John Hamilton.
1801. James Monteath, M. D. 1814. John More.
1802. John Geddes. 1817. James Ewing, LL. D.
1805. Alexander Oswald. 1820. John Geddes.
1806. John Semple. 1821. Walter Ferguson.
1807. William Anderson, M. D. 1825. James A. Anderson.
1809. Robert Austin. 1831. James Smith, F. R. S.
180 LANARKSHIRE.
The business of the university commenced on the 21st of Sep-
tember 1796 by Dr Garnet's reading in the Trades Hall to persons
of both sexes popular and scientific lectures on natural philosophy
and chemistry, illustrated by experiments. Soon after this period,
the managers rented, and then purchased, extensive premises in
John Street. Dr Garnet having been appointed Professor of Ex-
perimental Philosophy and Chemistry in the Royal Institution of
London, which had been formed on the model of this primary one,
resigned his professorship, and, on the 18th of October 1799, Dr
George Birkbeck was appointed as his successor. In addition to
what had been formerly taught, he introduced a familiar system of
instruction, which he demonstrated by experiments free of expense.
About 500 operatives attended this class, the greater part of whom
were recommended by Dr William Anderson and Dr James Cle-
land. This mode of tuition, by which philosophical subjects are
explained in ordinary language, divested of technicalities beyond
the comprehension of the student, is continued with great suc-
cess, at a small expense, and has been productive of the happiest
effects to a valuable class of society. Dr Birkbeck resigned his
professorship on the 5th of August 1804, and returned to London.
Dr Andrew Ure was appointed his successor on the 21st of the
following month, and, during a period of twenty-five years, dis-
charged the duties of his office with great ability, when he also
went to London to reside.
The affairs of the university becoming more and more prosper-
ous, the trustees purchased from the city the grammar-school
buildings fronting George Street, and having made considerable
additions and alterations, the premises now contain numerous halls
for the classes and for the museum, which has of late become
very rich in its several departments. The university buildings
were opened in November 1828, since which time the classes have
been well attended, and soirees have been introduced with the hap-
piest effect. The professions in 1835, are first, literature, philoso-
phy and popular science : Classes, natural philosophy, logic, ethics,
rhetoric, mathematics, natural history, modern languages, oriental
languages, drawing and painting in oil and water colours, and po-
pular lectures on the veterinary art ; and secondly, Medicine : clas-
ses, surgery, chemistry, medical jurisprudence, theory of medicine,
anatomy, physiology, and midwifery.
Mechanics Institution for the Promotion of the Arts and Sciences.
— This society was formed in 1823, by the mechanics of Glasgow,
with the view of disseminating mechanical and scientific knowledge
GLASGOW. 181
among their fellow operatives, particularly those branches more
immediately connected with their daily occupations. Lectures
were given on natural philosophy and chemistry, when a fee of
three shillings was paid by each student, which was afterwards in-
creased to ten shillings. From the formation of the society to the
present time, the number of students has averaged yearly about
500. Free admission is annually given to the lectures on chemis-
try and mechanics, and also to the library, — to poor apprentices,
one being admitted for every twenty tickets sold. In this manner
220 have been admitted since the commencement of the institu-
tion. In 1831, the society removed to large premises built for
them in Hanover Street. A colossal statue of James Watt is
placed on the pediment of the building, by a subscription of one
shilling from each student in successive years. In the building
there are commodious apartments for the numerous models and ap-
paratus; and for the library, which now consists of 3128 volumes on
science and general literature. In the session of 1835, there are
three professors, who give lectures on natural philosophy, chemistry,
popular anatomy, physiology, and phrenology. Fee for the course,
eight shillings.
At the close of the session of 1834—35, Mr Leadbetter, the
zealous and philosophic president of the society, stated, that the
students were from about forty different trades, — a proof of the
utility of the institution.* The entry book of the library shows
an increased avidity for reading. During the six months of the
session 7778 isues were made to 399 readers, being an average
of about 20 books to each reader. The British Association, from
its perambulatory character, has given a new impulse to the study
of science. " I expect to see ere long," said the indefatigable
and talented President, " this body of men the concentration of
all the scientific knowledge of Great Britain, encamped and set-
ting up their crucibles in the city which first opened the portals
of science to the mechanic and artisan, and which first invited
the fair sex to a participation of the common benefits of a phi-
losophical education." Exclusive of the above institution, there
* Honorary Patron, — George Birkbeck, M. D. F. R. S. London.
Vice- Patron, — Charles Tennant.
President, — John Leadbetter.
Honorary Councillors :
James Ewing, LL. D. James Hutchison.
Henry Houldsworth. James Lumsden.
James Watson. Robert Napier.
Archibald M'Lellan. James Cleland, LL.D.
Maurice Pollock. William Dunn.
William Gilmour. Colin Dunlop, M. P.
T A XT A T> V XT
182 LANARKSHIRE.
are similar ones in the suburbs, with about 1200 students. In the
Calton 450 students attended the natural philosophy class, of whom
nine-tenths were operatives ; 200 females attended the astronomy
and geography classes, seven-tenths of whom were mill girls.
From the foregoing facts let not the friends of elementary educa-
tion undervalue the acquirements of science, nor the friends of
science the benefits of a moral and religious education. It is true
that the one does not embrace scientific instruction, and the other
does not profess to impart moral and religious knowledge, but both
contribute to improve and exalt the human character, and are there-
fore essential elements in a national education. Dr Chalmers has
observed, that Christianity has every thing to hope and nothing to
fear from the advancement of science, and he affords in his own
character a striking instance of the benefits of scientific knowledge,
ennobling the intellect, and adorning the Christian character.
Newspapers. — The first newspaper published in the west of Scot-
land was the Glasgow Courant, which appeared in the year 1715.
It was published three times a-week, consisted of twelve pages in
small quarto, and was sold for three-halfpence, or " one penny to
regular customers." The second number contained a letter from
Provost Aird, Colonel of the regiment of Glasgow Volunteers, de-
tailing his views in regard to the Duke of Argyll's ultimate success
at Sheriffmuir. The name of the paper was soon changed to that
of the West Country Intelligence, which only survived a few years.
From 1715 till the present time, there have been twenty-one at-
tempts to establish newspapers in this city, and out of that num-
ber, eleven still survive. The names of the papers, the dates of
their commencement, and the periods of publication, are as fol-
lows : — The Glasgow Courant in 1715; the Journal in 1729;
the Chronicle in 1775; the Mercury in 1779; the Advertiser in
1783; but in 1804 its name was changed to that of the Herald ;
the Courier in 1791 ; the Clyde Commercial Advertiser in 1805;
the Caledonia in 1807 ; but in the same year it merged in the
Western Star; the Sentinel in 1809; a second Chronicle in 1811 ;
the Scotsman in 1812; the Packet in 1813; a second Sentinel in
1821; the Free Press in 1823; the Scots Times in 1825; the
Evening Post in 1827 ; the Trades' Advocate in 1829 ; the Libera-
tor in 1831 ; the Scottish Guardian and the Argus in 1832; and
the Weekly Reporter in 1834. The eleven surviving papers are,
the Journal, published once a-week ; the Herald, twice ; the Cou-
rier, three times ; the Chronicle, three times ; the Free Press,
twice ; the Scots Times, twice ; the Evening Post, once ; the Libe-
GLASGOW. 183
rator, once; the Scottish Guardian, twice; the Argus, twice; and
the Weekly Reporter, once ; so that in Glasgow there are twenty
newspapers published weekly. It would be invidious to state the
circulation of each paper, even if it could be accurately obtained.
It is, however, known, that the circulation of the Herald on each
publishing day for some years past has exceeded 1800, and that
during the quarter from the 1st of March to the 1st of June 1834,
its advertisements amounted to 3291.
Libraries, fyc. — The first circulating library in the west of Scot-
land was established in Glasgow in 1753, by Mr John Smith Se-
nior, who lent out books at the rate of one-halfpenny per volume.
There are now many circulating as well as public and private li-
braries in Glasgow. Of the public libraries, exclusively of those
belonging to the University, to Anderson's University, and to other
literary bodies, the more valuable are Stirling's, which was institut-
ed in 1791, the Glasgow in 1804, and the Robertsonian in 1814.
Of late years a number of book societies have been established
in Glasgow. They are conducted on a plan similar to that of cir-
culating libraries, with this difference, that the books belong to the
readers themselves, who are chiefly of the working-classes. The
periodical book publishing trade, which, till about the year 1796,
was scarcely known in Scotland, is carried on in Glasgow to an
extent surpassing that of any other town in this part of the king-
dom. By a late Parliamentary report, it appeared that in Scot-
land there were 414 book-hawkers, technically termed " canvas-
sers" and " deliverers," who, in seven years, collected L. 44160
per annum in sixpences and shillings ; and five-sixteenths of the
whole belonged to Glasgow.
The Maitland Club, which was established in this city a few
years ago, is similar to the Bannatyne Club of Edinburgh, or the
Roxburgh Club of London, by the reprinting of valuable and scarce
old books for private, use, or printing for the first time curious and
rare manuscripts illustrative of the history, literature, or antiqui-
ties of Scotland. The club takes its name from Sir Richard
Maitland of Lethington, an Officer of State during the minority of
James VI. ; and who like Bannatyne, did much service to Scottish
literature, by compiling nearly all the poetry of the nation then in
existence.
During the last thirty years several magazines and other periodical
works have been published here, but none of them have succeeded.
The Church of Scotland Magazine bids fair for permanency.
Poor. — The proper management of the poor is every where
184 LANARKSHIRE.
important, but in a great manufacturing community, subject to
numerous vicissitudes, unknown to small towns and rural districts,
it is peculiarly so. The poor in nine of the ten parishes of the
city are maintained by an assessment on the inhabitants, aided by
certain donations, and the collections or offerings at the church
doors ; whilst the poor of the other parish are maintained on a se-
parate plan, to be afterwards mentioned, and the poor of the two
suburban parishes of Barony and Gorbals by a tax on rental, aid-
ed by donations and offerings. Soon after Dr Chalmers'* admis-
sion to the Tron Church on the 21st of July 1815, he discover-
ed that a great improvement might be made in the mode of main-
taining the poor, and particularly that assessment might be dis-
pensed with. Having explained his views to the magistrates, he
was translated to the newly erected church and parish of St John's,
that he might be the better able to develope his plan. Accordingly,
on the 18th of August 1819, the town-council unanimously resolved
that Dr Chalmers should have a " separate, independent, and ex-
clusive management and distribution of the funds which may be
raised by voluntary or charitable collections at the doors of St
John's Church for the relief of the poor resident in said parish."
The scheme was continued by Dr Patrick Macfarlan, the clergy-
man who succeeded Dr Chalmers, and is still continued by Dr
Thomas Brown, the present incumbent ; and after a trial of six-
teen years, the energies of what is emphatically called the agen-
cy have not decreased. There is no intricacy in the scheme.
The members of the congregation are liberal in their voluntary of-
ferings at the church doors. The parish is divided into small dis-
tricts; numerous elders and deacons, to whom districts are assigned,
visit their respective poor, by which means imposition is easily detect-
ed, and the distribution of the fund to the legitimate poor more
surely and easily accomplished. It redounds much to the credit
of the parochial scheme, that St John's parish not only supports
its poor without assessment, but the parishioners are assessed as
other citizens for the maintenance of the poor of the other nine pa-
rishes.
We have preferred taking the following abstract from Dr Cle-
land's Statistical work in 1831, to any statement which could be
made for 1835, as we have the advantage of the Government enu-
* This distinguished divine, now a Corresponding Member of the Royal Institute
of France, received his degree of D. D. from the University of Glasgow, and of LL.D.
from the University of Oxford, — literary honours which we believe never before met
in the person of a Presbyterian clergyman.
GLASGOW. 185
meration for the former year, to enable our readers to draw re-
sults. Number of paupers in the city and suburbs on the 31st of
December 1830, with the expense of maintaining them during
that year.
Number Expense of
of paupers. maintenance.
St Mungo's, . . . . 179 L. 396 12 9
St Mary's, . . . .149 348 7 7
Blackfriars, . . . . 176 362 1 1 0
Outer High, . . . .148 336 5 1J
St George's, . . . . 126 354 0 2
St Andrew's, . . . . 88 205 17 4
St Enoch's, . . . . 137 254 5 2
St James', . . . .108 228 19 2$
St David's, 71 161 16 8
St John's, . . . . .70 241 19 1
In-door and out-door paupers in hospital, 1057 5773 1 7
Total in city, .... 2309
In Barony parish, .... 2237 7485 4 4
In Gorbals, ... 460 1 132 18 0£
Total in city and suburbs, . . . 5006 L. 17281 18 04
The population in the city and suburbs being 202,426, and the
number of paupers 5006, there is one pauper for every 40 ^o per-
sons. The population of the ten parishes in the city being 89,847,
and the number of paupers 2309, there is one pauper for every
38/0*0 persons. The number of paupers in the city and suburbs
being 5006, and the amount of their maintenance L. 17,281, 18s. Ojd.
gives to each pauper L. 3, 9s. 0T62d. The number of paupers in
St John's parish being 70, and the amount of their maintenance
L. 241, 19s. Id. gives to each pauper L. 3, 8s. lO-^d.
Abstract of the Expenditure of the Benevolent and Charitable In-
stitutions of Glasgow, exclusive of Widows' Funds, Benefit Societies,
Charity Schools, and Maintenance of Paupers.
The affairs of the following societies are conducted at the Re-
ligious and Charitable Institution Rooms :
Date of Subscriptions
formation. for 1834.
1796, Glasgow Missionary Society, ... L. 735 0 0
1804, do. Bible Society, .... 576 0 0
1809, Nile and George Street Chapels' Sabbath School Society, 57 00
1811, Aged Women's Society, . . . , ' . 110 0 0
1811, Glasgow Auxiliary Gaelic School Society, . . 456 0 0
1812, do Old Men's Friend Society, . . . 323 0 0
1813, do. Auxiliary Hibernian Society, . . . 200 0 0
1815, do. Auxiliary Bible Society, . . 165 0 0
1815, do. Society in Aid of the Serampore Missions, . 693 0 0
1817> do. Young Men's Society for the Support of Gaelic Schools, 1 1 8 0 0
1818, do. Auxiliary Moravian Society, . . . 622 0 0
1819, do. Society for Promoting Christianity among the Jews,
(Auxiliary to the London Society, formed in 1810,) . 166 0 0
1820, do. Auxiliary Scottish Missionary Society, . 265 Q_ 0
186 LANARKSHIRE.
1820, Glasgow Deaf and Dumb Institution, . . L. 215 11 10
1821, do. Religious and Church Institution House Reading Room, 35 0 0
1821, do. Auxiliary Religious Tract and Book Society for Ireland, 66 0 0
)822, do. Seaman's Friend Society, . . . 87 0 0
1823, do. Auxiliary London Missionary Society, (originated in
1815, re-organized in 1823,) . . . 187 0 0
1823, do. Auxiliary Irish Evangelical Society, . . 74 0 0
1823, do. Religious Tract Society, .... 270 0 0
1825, do. North American Colonial Society, . . 316 0 0
1825, Orphan's Institution, ..... 500 0 0
1826, Glasgow Continental Society, . . . . 45 0 0
1826, do. City Mission, ..... 800 0 0
1827, do. Auxiliary to the Irish Society for Native Schools, 367 0 0
1829, do. Naval and Military Bible Society, . . 130 0 0
1829, Scottish Temperance Society, . . . . 175 0 0
1830, Glasgow Temperance Society, . . . 485 15 10
1 830, do. Auxiliary to the British Society for Promoting the Reli-
gious Principles of the Reformation, . . . 85 0 0
1831, do. Society for Benevolent Visitation of the Destitute Sick,
and others in extreme Poverty, . . . 50 0 0
1832, do. Christian Instruction Society, . . . 15 0 0
1833, do. Association for Promoting the Interests of the Church
of Scotland, . . . . . . 260 0 0
1834, do. Society for Church Accommodation, (subscribed in nine
months, viz. two at L. 500, one at L. 300, seventy at L. 200 each,
fifty-five at L. 100, and twelve at L. 50,) . . 21,400 0 0
L. 30,039 7 8
The following list was prepared a few years ago by Dr Cleland
for a public purpose. Although the expenditure of some of the
institutions may now vary a little, the aggregate amount may be
taken as pretty near the truth.
1460, St Nicholas Hospital, . . . . L. 30 0 0
Fourteen incorporations (at various dates,) . . 2777 3 1
1599, Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons, . *> »";' [ 35 0 0
1605, Merchant's House, . . . . 920 12 2
1605, Trades House, . . . . . 782 11 8
1639, Hutchison's Hospital, . . . . 2580 2 11
1725, Buchanan's Society, . . . . . 418 15 2
1727, Highland Society, . . . . 775 0 7
1729, Mitchell's Mortification, (Mortmain,) . . 100 0 0
1741, Tennant's Mortification, . . . 46 2 8
1778, Wilson's Charity, . . . . . 214 1 7
1778, Coulter's Mortification, . . . . 60 0 0
1789, Grocers' Society, . . . . 95 8 4
1790, Miller's Charity, . . . . 264 4 2
1790, Humane Society, . . . . . 49 10 9
1790, Society of the Sons of the Clergy, . . 228 0 0
1790, Brown's Society, . . . . . 12 0 0
1790, Watson's Society, . . . . 24 7 0
1791, Glasgow Galloway Brotherly Society, . . 49 10 0
1794, Royal Infirmary,* . . . . 3593 4 7
* The number of patients in the hospitals and asylums on the 25th March 1831
was 709, viz. in the Royal Infirmary, 304 ; of whom males, 143 ; females, 161 ; un-
der 30 years of age, 148. In the Lunatic Asylum there were 264, viz. insane, 212 ;
of whom, males, 99 ; females, 1 13 ; under 30 years, 46 ; idiots, 1 1 ; of whom, males,
ft ; females, 3 ; under 30 years, 5 ; silly in mind, 41 ; of whom, males, 9; ^females, »
32; under 30 years, 6. In the Lock Hospital there were females, 27 ; under 30
years, 23. In the Magdalene Asylum there were 33, all under 30 years. In the
GLASGOW. 187
1794, Teachers' Society, . . . ..; . L.2i 0 0
1794, Dumfries-shire Society, V'1 . ''' .: ' '• 10 0 0
1796, Faculty of Procurators, . . '•»:• : . "; ?4 0 0
J797, Badge of Merit Highland Society, . .\ 12 0 0
1805, Lock Hospital, •>•„;' . [ *V '-' . . 451 0 1
1809, Stirlingshire Society, . . . . t . 20 0 2
1810, Lunatic Asylum, . . . . 443 5 0
1 8 11, M< Alpine's Mortification, . . . 70 0 0
1812, Benevolent Society for Clothing the Poor, . . 340 13 10
1815, Magdalene Asylum, 'V . . . 485 7 9
Not ascertained. Graham's Society, . . -. 164 0 1
Do. Ayrshire Society, . . . . 4180
Abstract amount of charities partaking of a benevolent character, L. 1 5, 1 9 1 3 8
Do. of a religious character, 30,039 7 8
Amount of religious and charitable funds, ,/ f. i • L. 45,230 11 4
Donations for charitable education under the patronage of the
magistrates and ministers of Glasgow, exclusive of the above,
1825, Mr M'Lachlan, Calcutta, . . . . L. 8281 18 0
1831, Mr James Murdoch, Glasgow, . . . 4417 18 6
1833, Dr Bell, London, . . • . . 9791 13 4
Contingent on the life of Mrs Maxwell, aged upwards of 70 years, 2000 0 0
L. 24,491 9 10
M'Lachlan 's includes the Elders.
Presbytery of Glasgow, and Synod of Glasgow and Ayr. — The
Presbytery formerly consisted of ten ministers of the city, and those of
the twelve surrounding parishes, viz. Barony of Glasgow, Gorbals,
Rutherglen, Cumbernauld, Carmunnock, Cadder, Campsie, Govan,
Kirkintilloch, Kilsyth, Cathcart, and Eaglesham, with their elders ;
but as the thirteen ministers of the chapels of ease have now been
raised to the status of parish ministers, the clerical members of
Presbytery are increased to thirty-five. The Presbytery of Glas-
gow in 1835, for the first time, sent six ministers and three elders
to the General Assembly.
The synod consists of eight presbyteries, viz. Glasgow, Ayr, Ir-
vine, Paisley, Hamilton, Lanark, Dumbarton, and the new Pres-
bytery of Greenock.
The following is a view of the, progressive stipends of nine of the
ministers of Glasgow. Till 1788, the stipends were paid in Scots
money, viz. in merks converted into pounds Sterling.
In 1638, - L. 58 16 114 In 1788, - L. 165 0 0
1642, - 66 13 4 1796, - 200 0 0
1643, - 78 16 8 1801, - 250 0 0
1674, - 90 0 0 1808, 300 0 0
172% . Ill 2 2| 1814, - 400 0 0
1762, - 138 17 9J 1830, - 425 0 0
Deaf and Dumb Institution there were 37 ; males, 22 ; females, 15; under 20 years,
36. The blind persons in the Asylum and Town's Hospital were 40 ; males, 26 ;
females, 14 ; under 30 years, 27« Eye Infirmary, 4 ; males, 2 ; females, 2 ; under
30,2.
188
LANARKSHIRE.
The stipend of the minister of the Cathedral Church ( St Mungo
or Inner High) is paid in victual from teind (converted into mo-
ney,)* viz. 12J chalders of meal; 12J chalders of barley; L. 30 in
money ; and a glebe, which has been feued under the authority of
Parliament. This stipend, when grain is at a moderate price,
amounts to about L. 500. It is very remarkable, that the stipend
of the Barony parish, with the largest population in Scotland, was.
only 2000 merks Scots, (L.I 11, 2s. 2|d.) till 22d February 1815,
when the Court of Teinds raised it to 22 chalders of victual, and
L. 30 in money. The glebe was afterwards authorized to be feued.
When the Gorbals parish was erected on 20th February 1771, the
stipend was L. 90. It has since been increased to L. 300.
Church Accommodation. — In 1831, the population of the city
and suburbs, as before stated, was 202,426, and the total sittings in
the various places of worship in the city and suburbs 73,425 : viz.
in the Established Church, 30,928; Seceders, Dissenters, Episco-
palians, and Roman Catholics, 42,497. This is in the proportion
* His Majesty's Justices of the Peace for the County of Lanark, taking into their
consideration that, by act 4th and 5th William IV. cap. 49, all local measures are
repealed ; and that in Scotland, on 1st January 1835, the fiar prices of all grain in
every county, for ascertaining the value of ministers' stipends, teinds, &c. shall be
struck by the imperial quarter, it therefore becomes necessary to know how many im-
perial bushels and parts of a bushel are equal to a Linlithgow wheat chalder, and art
oat and barley chalder ; and having full confidence in the science and skill of Dr Wil-
liam Meikleham, Professor of Natural Philosophy in the University of Glasgow ; Dr
Thomas Thomson, Professor of Chemistry in said University ; and Dr James Cle-
land of Glasgow, Fellow of the Statistical Society of London, the meeting appointed
the said gentlemen to ascertain and report on oath, on the comparative contents of
the measures aforesaid.
After mature investigation, commensurate to the importance of the remit, they re-
ported inter alia.
TABLE FOR WHEAT, PEAS, AND TABLE FOR OATS, BARLEY, BERE,
BEANS. AND MALT.
Chald. Imp. Bush. Bush. Gall.
1 = 93.198784 or 93 1 3-5
2=186.397568 or 186 3 1-6
3=279.596352 or 279 4 3-4
4=372.795136 or 372 6 1-S
5=465.993920 or 465 7 19-20
6=559.192704 or 559 1 1-2
7=652.391488 or 652 3
8=745.590272 or 745 4
Chald. Imp. Bush.
1= 63.8862656
2=127.7725312
3=191.6587968
4=255.5450624
5=319.4313280
6=383.3175936
7=447.2038592
8=511.0901248
9=574.9763904
10=638.8626560
or
or
or
or
or
or
or
or
or
or
Bush.
63
127
.191
255
319
383
447
511
574
638
Gall.
7 1-10
6 1-5
5 1-4
4 1-3
3 9-20
2 J-2
1 2-3
0 3-4
7 8-10
6 9-10
9=838.789056 or 838 6
1-8
3-4
1-3
10=931.987840 or 931 7 9-10
At a meeting of his Majesty's Justices of the Peace for the County of Lanark, held
at Hamilton on the 24th October 1 834, his Grace the Lord Lieutenant suggested,
and the meeting unanimously conferred on Dr Cleland, one of their number, the
honorary office of Inspector- General of weights and measures for the county, with
control over the statutory inspectors. The counties of Renfrew and Dumbarton, and
the burghs of . Calton, Hamilton, Lanark, Paisley, Greenock, Dumbarton, and
Kirkintilloch, had their imperial standards of weights and measures adjusted and cer-
tified by the Director- General.
GLASGOW. 189
of one sitting to 2.75-100th persons, or 20,4291 sittings less than
the amount required by law.
On 1st July 1835, the House of Commons presented a humble
address to his Majesty, who has been graciously pleased to appoint a
commission " to inquire into the opportunities of religious worship
and means of religious instruction, and the pastoral superintendence
afforded to the people of Scotland, and how far these are of avail
for the religious and moral improvement of the poor and of the
working classes, and with this view to obtain information respect-
ing their stated attendance at places of worship, and their actual
connection with any religious denomination, to inquire what funds
are now or may hereafter be available for the purpose of the Esta-
blished Church of Scotland, and to report from time to time, in
order that such remedies may be applied to any existing evils as
Parliament may think fit."
When the time occupied, and the expense incurred in preparing
for the church is considered, no one will presume to say that the
aspirant for the holy ministry is actuated by mercenary motives ; it
,is, therefore, the duty of those who benefit by their labours to pro-
vide for their temporal wants in a suitable manner, so that their
spiritual instructor may be enabled to devote his whole energies to
the duties of his sacred office. As the livings of two of the clergy-
men of this city arise from teinds, the following account may not
be uninteresting:
In the case of the minister of Prestonkirk against the heritors
of that parish in 1808, the Lord President Hope, then Lord Jus-
tice-Clerk, in giving his opinion, said, " When we look back to the
history of past ages, we find that the tithes of Scotland were at no
time the property of the heritors. From the very earliest period
which we can trace our history, the tithes were the property of the
state, reserved by the state, and by the state appropriated, or at
least applied, as a fund for the purpose of maintaining the clergy.
Let us consider the situation of an heritor in the light of a pur-
chaser of land. Did any such pay one farthing as the price of the
tithes ? Certainly not. They always are, and always have been,
deducted from the rental in calculating the price of the estate.
What is taken from the tithes for the maintenance of the clergy
is not, therefore, taken out of the pocket of the heritors ; for, merely
as a proprietor of land, he can have no right to the tithes either
by purchase or inheritance. On the point of law, I never was
clearer on any question in my life. In point of authority, I look
190 LANARKSHIRE.
to Lord Stair, as the highest with which I am acquainted. On the
subject of tithes he says, ' They were at all times the property of
the Church or state/ He adds, that, ' into whatever hands they
pass, teinds carry along with them, as a burthen affecting them,
competent stipends for the ministers who are, or who shall be,
elected ;' in other words, that, into whatever hands teinds may
come, they are inherently necessarily burthened with the mainte-
nance of the clergy." The Lord Justice- Clerk then said, "Where
has there been since the world began such a body of clergy in
point of virtue, learning, piety, and a faithful discharge of their
parochial duties ? The clergy of Scotland, I am proud to say, have
never been equalled by the clergy of any nation upon earth. Much
reason would the landholders of this country have to be contented
and satisfied, though the burden of maintaining such a body of
clergy had been ten times greater than it is. Still more reason
have the heritors of Scotland to be satisfied with their lot, when
they compare their situation with that of the landed proprietors of
any other country."
Lord Craig " would not go over the ground occupied by his
learned brother, but would say, of all men in any Christian country
in Europe, the proprietors of land in Scotland have least reason to
complain of the state of the teinds. By the law of Scotland, they
possess advantages with regard to teinds which no other country in
Christendom enjoys. " As the Church of Christ includes an order
of men who devote their time and study to the discharge of the duties
of the pastoral office, and who have been expressly educated for that
purpose, they are entitled to a competent maintenance from those
for whose good they labour ; and the provision for the clergy of the
Church of Scotland, though inferior to that of other ecclesiastical
establishments, is, on the whole, respectable. The allowance to
the clergy out of the tithes of the parish was at first but scanty,
but their stipends have been gradually augmented. Indeed, if,
while other orders of men are getting forward, the stipends of the
ministers of the Established Church had remained stationary, the
accumulation of national wealth, by relatively sinking those who
minister at the altar into abject poverty, would have rendered them
contemptible, and the Church would have been supplied solely
from the lowest orders of the people. It is a branch of political
wisdom, therefore, to save the Established clergy from this degra-
dation, which would undermine their usefulness, and might render
GLASGOW. 191
them but little anxious to preserve the welfare and stability of the
state."*
It has been said, that clergymen in the discharge of the sacred du-
ties of their office belong to no particular class of society, mixing, as
they necessarily do, with the high, the low, and the middle grades.
In Glasgow the clergymen have always been highly respectable,
and at no period more so than at present. The Established churches
in Glasgow are all uncollegiate. The ministers prepare and preach
two sermons every Sunday, and in rotation preach on Thursdays
in St Mary's Church, and Hope Street and St Mary's Churches
on Sunday evenings. They preach occasional charity and mission-
ary sermons. They examine the youth of their congregations in
class meetings, and give partial ministerial visitations in the families
of their parishioners. To visit the whole in the present overgrown
state of the parishes would be next to impossible. They visit the
sick, and assist the kirk-session in the proper distribution of the
poors' funds ; — they superintend the schools in their parishes, —
and, in obedience to the wishes of the pious founders of some of the
benevolent institutions of the city, they share the management with
the magistrates ; and their attendance on funerals, kirk-sessions,
presbyteries, synods, and general assemblies, occupies a consider-
able portion of their time. The bare recital of the above must
convince every one of the laborious duties of a city parochial clergy-
man ; and as to pecuniary remuneration, it is barely sufficient for pre-
sent purposes, leaving little or no provision in case of a widowed family.
The clergymen of Glasgow have long moved in the first rank of
society. Their dwelling-houses and their domestic expenses are
necessarily on a scale suited to their rank. In addition to the Go-
vernment and local taxes, they are subjected to clerical ones, and
they readily contribute to private and public charities ; and when
it is considered that their sons usually receive a university educa-
tion, and their daughters that which is suited to their station, the
wonder is, how a city clergyman can bring up his family on his sti-
pend, not to speak of his making any after-provision for them. In
1831 there were 58 clergymen in the city and suburbs who receiv-
ed stipend, varying from L. 150 to L. 500 ; the average to each
was within a small fraction of L. 268. If the maintenance of the
whole clergy was chargeable to each individual in the community,
it would only amount to Is. 5|d. in the year, — a sum small, indeed,
when compared with the important benefits received.
* Hill's Theological Institutes, p, 282.
192 LANARKSHIRE.
The corporation of the city are proprietors of the Established
churches, and receive the seat rents. That the church is not bur-
densome to the community is evident from the following official
statement for 1834, by which it appears that the ecclesiastical re-
venue exceeded the expenditure, L. 487, Is. 7d. as under :
Rents of seats in the Established churches, . . L. 4930 15 0
Stipend to the Established clergymen of the city,* L. 3825 0 0
Communion elements, . 163 10 7
Salaries to ten precentors, . . 1 46 1 1 8
Cleaning churches, insurance, coal and candle, . 110 10 0
Repairing church windows, . . . 31 16 3
General repairs and furnishings for churches, . 166 4 11
4443 13 5
Excess, , . L. 487 1 7
Individuals inimical to establishments- think that the interest of
the sums laid out in building the churches should form a part of
the expense of the Establishment. Without admitting the prin-
ciple that parochial churches should support themselves; on the
contrary, believing that the law and the practice is otherwise, it may
be well to see how the churches in Glasgow came into the possession
of the corporation. In the first place, the Cathedral and Outer
High Churches belong to the Crown, the corporation being at the
expense of seating them. The College Church was given to the cor-
poration by Queen Mary ; and on its becoming ruinous, it was re-
built chiefly by private subscription. At present a very great pro-
portion of the seats belong to the College or to private individuals.
The Ramshorn Church in like manner was built chiefly by sub-
scription. It has lately been rebuilt, under the name of St David's,
at the expense of the corporation. This church, and its beautiful
tower, after deducting the amount of sales of burying places in the
crypt, cost the corporation little more than L.3000. St Enoch's
Church, originally intended for a chapel of ease, was built chiefly
by subscription, but was soon afterwards acquired by the corpora-
tion for a parish church. It has lately been rebuilt on very favour-
able terms; as the corporation, after receiving interest for the sum
laid out, gained L. 132, 17s. 6d. per annum, as appeared from a
printed paper which Dr Cleland addressed to the corporation when
the church was finished. This saving arose chiefly from additional
seats and better accommodation. '
The collections at the doors of the Established churches ave-
rage rather more than L. 1800 per annum, which, when added to
* By Act 4R Geo. III. 6, C. 138, no stipend can be augmented until twenty years
after the date of the last decreet of modification. The incumbents of the Cathedral
and Barony Churches were entitled to apply for an augmentation on 22d February
1835.
GLASGOW. 193
the sum of L.487, Is. 7d. surplus revenue, is much more than
would pay the interest of the expense of building the Established
churches. The poor in this city, as is elsewhere stated, are support-
ed by an assessment on the inhabitants, whether belonging to the
Established Church or to the Dissenters. The collections at the
doors of the Established churches go to reduce that assessment, but
those received at the doors of the Dissenters chapels do not go to
the fund, but are applied to purposes connected with their own body.
City Mission. — The want of church accommodation, and the
total inability of the clergymen of the city to attend to the religi-
ous wants of a numerous class of the community, many of whom
have no desire for religious instruction, led to the formation of the
City Mission. The society was instituted upon the 1st of Janu-
ary 1 826, for the purpose of promoting the spiritual welfare of the
poor of Glasgow and its neighbourhood, by employing persons of
approved piety, and otherwise properly qualified, to visit the poor
in their own houses, for the purpose of religious discourse, and to
use other means of diffusing and increasing amongst them a know-
ledge of evangelical truth. In December 1831, there were twenty-
two licentiates or students of divinity employed at salaries of L.40
each ; twenty of these were on full time, viz. four hours per day, and
the other two on two-thirds time. In addition to the city mission,
a parochial mission was instituted in 1832, and there are now one
missionary in every parish, and two or three in the large ones.
Roman Catholics. — The number of Roman Catholics has greatly
increased in Glasgow of late years. The following is a brief ac-
count of their rise and progress.
Although popular opinion ran very strong ag^nst the exercise
of the Roman Catholic religion in this city till after the mitigation
of the penal statutes, Bishop Hay occasionally came from Edin-
burgh, and celebrated mass in a clandestine manner in a room in
Blackstock's back tenement, Salt Market Street, to the few Catho-
lics who at that time resided here.
An act of Parliament having been passed for repealing certain
penal statutes in England enacted against the Roman Catholics,
in the llth and 12th years of William III., a bill was brought in-
to Parliament for repealing these statutes in Scotland, which ex-
cited great alarm in that part of the kingdom. In Edinburgh, a
mob assembled on 3d February 1779, and burnt Bishop Hay's
house and valuable library, and the house of Principal Robertson
would have shared the same fate, had it not been protected by the
194 LANRAKSH1RE.
military, he having expressed himself favourable to the repeal of
the penal statutes.
In Glasgow, the measure was viewed with so much alarm, that
eighty-five societies were formed to oppose it; and Mr John Pa-
terson, a spirit-merchant, was appointed to keep up a corre-
spondence with Lord George Gordon, at that time the head of the
Protestant association in London. During the discussion in Par-
liament, a mob collected on Sunday the 5th February 1780, dur-
ing the time of divine service, and would have destroyed the dwel-
ling-house of a Catholic where mass was being celebrated, had not
Provost French and the other magistrates arrived in time to pre-
vent it. On the Thursday following, being a day appointed for a
national fast, a mob collected in King Street, and destroyed the
shop of Mr Bagnall, a potter. Having completed their work of de-
vastation, they went to Tureen Street, and destroyed his manufac-
tory, for no other reason but that he was a Roman Catholic.
The increase of Roman Catholics in Glasgow may be dated from
1791. At that time the spirit for emigration from the North High-
lands to America was such as to drain the country of many of its
best labourers. The services of these hardy Northlanders being
required at home, Messrs George M'Intosh, David Dale, Robert
Dalglish, and other extensive manufacturers, invited them to this
city, and to such as were Roman Catholics, security was promised in
the exercise of their religion. The Tennis Court, in Mitchell Street,
was fitted up as a temporary chapel, and the Reverend Alexander
M;Donald, now Bishop of Upper Canada, was appointed priest in
1792. Mr M'Donald was succeeded by the Reverend John Farquhar-
son in 1795. Soon after that time the number of Roman Catholics
increased so much, that, in 1797, they built a small chapel in the
Gallowgate, near the barracks. In 1805, Mr Farquharson was suc-
ceeded by the Reverend Andrew Scott. From this period the num-
ber of Roman Catholics increased so rapidly, that, in 1815, the foun-
dation stone of a new chapel was laid in Clyde Street. This spa-
cious edifice, in which there is a magnificent organ, was opened
with great solemnity on the Sunday before Christmas 1816; after
which the chapel in the Gallowgate was appropriated to another
purpose. The number of Roman Catholics continuing to increase,
the Lancasterian school-house in Gorbals was converted into a Ro-
man Catholic chapel in 1828. In 1831, there were 26,965 Ro-
man Catholics in this city, and their number has increased con-
siderably since.
GLASGOW. 195
On 21st September 1828, the Reverend Andrew Scott was raised
to the dignity of Bishop of Eretria in the Archipelago, and coad-
jutor vicar apostolic to Bishop M'Donald for the western district
of Scotland. Mr Scott was consecrated bishop with great solem-
nity by the Right Reverend Bishop Paterson of Edinburgh, assist-
ed by Bishop McDonald of Lismore, and Bishop Penswick of Liver-
pool.
Prior to 1821, there was only one priest resident in Glasgow;
at that period there were two; in 1826, four; and in 1829, the
number of clergymen was increased to five, viz. the Right Reverend
Bishop Scott, the Reverend John Murdoch (now Bishop,) the Re-
verend John McDonald, the Reverend William Stewart, and the
Reverend Charles Grant. *
Licenses to sell Spirits. — The number of persons licensed to re-
tail spirituous, liquors in the ten parishes of the city being 1393,
and the number of families, 19,467, gives one licensed person or
public-house to ISjVo families. If the number of persons who
retail spirituous liquors without being able to obtain a license were
taken into account on the one hand, and the number of temperate
families who never use a public-house on the other, it may be said,
that in Glasgow there is at least one place where spirits are re-
tailed for every twelve families ! ! !
Pawnbrokers. — The business of a pawnbroker was not known
in Glasgow till August 1806. At that period an itinerant Eng-
lish pawnbroker commenced business in a room in the High Street,
but was obliged to give up at the end of six months, for want of
business; and it was not until the 8th of June 1813, that John
Graham, a disbanded town-officer, set up a regular pawnbroking
* On 16th June 1835, a solemn dedication of St Margaret's Nunnery, Edinburgh,
took place in its beautiful Saxon Chapel, and at the same time an interesting and af-
fecting ceremony took place on the admission of three young persons, who then en-
tered their noviciate into the community of the Sisters of Charity. The Right Re-
verend Bishop Carruthers, who officiated in chief, attired in gorgeous sacerdotals,
sprinkled the chapel with holy water. The sermon was delivered by Bishop Mur-
doch of Glasgow, from the front of the altar. In eloquent and powerful language
the Right Reverend Preacher alluded to the havoc which the Reformation had made
in the Catholic institutions of this country, and also to the fiery bigotry which, even
in recent times, had consigned to the flames the only Catholic chapel in Edinburgh ;
and while he contrasted the persecuting fury of former times with the enlightened
spirit and toleration of the present, he at the same time earnestly disclaimed alluding
to these things as matters of reproach to Protestants. He adverted to them merely
as facts in history, and proceeded to describe in animated terms the progress which, in
spite of all obstacles and difficulties, the Catholic religion was making in every part
of the country; rearing up temples which adorned the spots where they were placed,
and giving promise of the ultimate triumph which he felt assured that religion would
one day obtain.
S
196 LANARKSHIRE.
office. There are how twenty-two licensed pawnbrokers in the
city.
River Clyde. — As the River Clyde, in a commercial point of
view, is of the utmost importance, not only to Glasgow, but to the
western district of Scotland, a short sketch of its improvements
must be interesting. In the beginning of the sixteenth century,
the channel of the river for about thirteen miles below Glasgow
was so incommoded by fords and shoals as to be scarcely naviga-
ble even for small craft. But in 1556, the inhabitants of the
burghs of Glasgow, Renfrew, and Dumbarton, entered into an
agreement to excavate the river for six weeks alternately, with the
view of removing the ford at Dumbuck and some lesser fords.
By the exertions of these parties, small flat-bottomed craft were
brought up to the Broomielaw at Glasgow, which was then only a
landing shore : there being no regular harbour for more than a
hundred years after that period. In 1653, the merchants of Glas-
gow had their shipping harbour at the bailiery of Cunningham in
Ayrshire ; but that port being distant, and the land carriage expen-
sive, the magistrates of Glasgow treated with the magistrates of Dum-
barton for ground on which to build a harbour and docks at Dum-
barton. After much discussion the negotiation was broken up, the
magistrates of Dumbarton considering that the great influx of ma-
riners would " raise the price of provisions to the inhabitants." The
magistrates of Glasgow then turned their attention to the Troon ;
and here they were again repulsed from a similar reason. In 1662,
however, they succeeded in purchasing thirteen acres of ground from
Sir Robert Maxwell of Newark, on which they laid out the town of
Port- Glasgow, built harbours, and made the first dry orgravingdock
in Scotland. Soon after the Revolution in 1688, a quay was formed
at the Broomielaw, at the expense of 30,000 merks Scots, or
L. 1666, 13s. 4d. Sterling. The east end was at the mouth of
St Enoch's Burn, and the west at Robertson Street.
The magistrates having got a shipping port and a quay, direct-
ed Mr Smeaton, the celebrated engineer, to inspect the river, and
report his opinion. On the 13th of September 1755, he reported
inter alia, that the river at the ford at the Point House, about two
miles below Glasgow, was only one foot three inches deep at low
water, and three feet eight inches at high water. He proposed
that a lock and dam should be made at the Marlin-ford, in order
to secure four and a half feet water up to the quay at Glasgow.
The lock was to be seventy feet long, and eighteen feet wide, and
so deep as to take in a flat-bottomed lighter, at four and a-half
GLASGOW. 197
feet draught of water. An act of Parliament was procured for the
above purpose, but happily nothing further was done in it.
The magistrates soon after this required the assistance of Mr
John Golborne of Chester, who reported on the 30th November
1768, that the river was in a state of nature, and that at the shoal at
Kilpatrick sands, and at each end of the Nushet Island, there was
no more than two feet water. He then proposed to contract
the river by jetties, for eight miles below Glasgow, and to dredge
and deepen it at an expense of L. 8640. Mr Golborne having sug-
gested that a survey of the river should be made, the magistrates em-
ployed Mr James Watt, afterwards the celebrated improver of the
steam-engine, who, along with Dr Wilson and Mr James Barrie,
reported, that several parts of the river from the Broomielaw to the
Point House, had less than two feet water. In 1770, an act of
Parliament was procured, by which the members of the city cor-
poration were appointed trustees, with power to levy dues. The
trustees then contracted with Mr Golborne for deepening the ri-
ver; and in January 1775, he had erected 117 jetties on both sides,
which confined it' within narrow bounds, so that vessels drawing
more than six feet water came up to the Broomielaw at the height
of the tide. On the 7th of September 1781, Mr Golborne made an
estimate for bringing vessels drawing seven feet water, to the Broomie-
law. Since that period several eminent engineers have suggested
improvements, the greater part of which have been carried into ef-
fect. On the 22d of August 1799, Mr John Rennie, civil-en-
gineer, London, gave a detailed report respecting the deepening of
the river, as did also Mr Thomas Telford, civil-engineer, London,
on 24th May 1806; Mr John Rennie again on the 24th of Decem-
ber 1807; Mr Whidbey of Plymouth on the 22d of September
1824 ; Mr John Clark, superintendent of the river, on the llth of
November 1824 ; and Mr Charles Atherton, civil-engineer, Glas-
gow, in 1833.
In 1825, the trustees obtained another act of Parliament ap-
pointing five merchants not connected with the corporation, ad-
ditional trustees on the river ; and increasing the dues on all goods
passing on the river from Is. to Is. 4d. per ton, and on the ad-
measurement of all vessels coming to the harbour, in name of har-
bour dues, from Id. to 2d. per ton. The same act authorized
dues to be levied for the use of sheds, according to a regulated
schedule, the former dues of Is. per ton on coals having been
taken off.
LANARK. O
198 LANARKSHIRE.
Mr James Spreull was appointed superintendent of the river in
1798, and until his death in 1824, he was enthusiastic in every thing
that related to its improvement. The increase of trade at the
Broomielaw, in consequence of the improvements of the river, almost
exceeds belief. Less than fifty years ago, a few gabbards, and these
only about thirty or forty tons, could come up to Glasgow : by
the year 1831, vessels drawing thirteen feet six inches of water
were ' enabled to come up to the harbour ; and now large vessels,
many of them upwards of 300 tons burden, from America, the
East and West Indies, and the Continent of Europe, are often
to be found three deep along nearly the whole length of the har-
bour. During the year 1834, about 27,000 vessels passed Ren-
frew Ferry ; and at some periods in the year between twenty and
thirty passed in one hour. A few years ago the harbour was only
730 feet long on one side, it is now 3340 feet long on the north side
of the river, and 1260 on the south. Till of late years there were
only a few punts and ploughs for the purpose of dredging the river,
now, there are four dredging-machines, with powerful steam appara-
tus, and two diving-bells. Till lately there was no covering for goods
at the harbour, and but one small crane for loading and discharging,
now, the shed accommodation on both sides of the river is most
ample, and one of the cranes for shipping steam -boat-boilers, and
other articles of thirty tons, made by Messrs Claud Girdwood and
Company may, for the union of power with elegance of construc-
tion, challenge all the ports in the kingdom. The river for seven
miles below the city is confined within narrow bounds; and the
sloping banks formed of whinstone, in imitation of ashlar, are un-
equalled in the kingdom, whether their utility or their beauty be
taken into account.
Till 1834 the river and harbour dues were annually disposed
of by public sale, but now they are collected by the trustees.
The following is a statement of the amount of tonnage and har-
bour dues in the years specified: In 1771, the first year's dues
were L. 1021; in 1810, L. 4959 ; in 1812, L. 5525 ; in 1815,
L. 5680; in 1833, L. 20,260 ; in 1834, L. 21,260,— exclusive of
L. 1564 for shed dues. The dues for the year ending on 8th July
1835 amounted to L. 31,497. The sum of L. 8673, which has this
year been added to the revenue, arises partly from the new mode
of collection, and partly from the great increase of trade. The pub-
lic are chiefly indebted for the change in the mode of collection to
ULSAGOW. 199
Mr James Hutchison, and Mr James Browne, two of the trus-
tees.
In virtue of an old charter, the burgesses of Dumbarton are
exempt from river dues. From the time the exemption was first
claimed on 9th July 1825, to 8th July 1834, they amounted to
L. 4722, 13s. viz. sailing vessels L. 803, 13s. 4d ; steam ditto
L. 3918, 19s. 8d, less L. 170, 3s. Id. paid by shareholders in steam-
boats, who were not burgesses of Dumbarton.
The river dues have been greatly increased by steam naviga-
tion, as appears from the following statement. From 8th July
1833 to 9th July 1834, the river dues collected stood to the gross
revenue as follows : Total tonnage on merchandize 70J per cent,
ditto by sailing vessels, including ferries, 38| per cent ; ditto by
steam ditto 31| per cent. ; quay dues by ditto, 15| per cent: dit-
to by sailing ditto 5J per cent ; shed dues 5T7^ per cent. ; ferries,
3 1 per cent. Total steam to total sailing vessels as 87^ to 100.
The trustees in 1834, appointed Mr David Logan, civil-engineer,
a gentleman of great experience and scientific acquirements, to di-
rect the improvements of the river. At present great and merito-
rious exertions are making in widening the harbour and the nar-
row parts of the river, and deepening it throughout. While the pre-
sent trustees are entitled to high commendation for their exertions,
it is not our intention to detract from the merits of the former trus-
tees. Mr Golborne laid the foundation of the improvements of
the river, but it is to the praiseworthy exertions of individuals com-
posing the improvement committees during the last twenty years,
while following out the suggestions of the civil-engineers, that the
river has been brought to a state of so great perfection. At that pe-
riod the revenue, as has been already shown, was under L. 6000, yet
with that comparatively small sum, unaided by the large revenue
since obtained from steam navigation, important improvements had
been made, and it is no more than justice to Provost Dalglish (for
a long time chairman of the improvement committee) to say, that,
to the energies of his mind, sound judgment, and unwearied exer-
tions, the public are greatly indebted for the splendid improvements
on the river. The present trustees, with a revenue of L. 31,497,
subject only to the interest of the debt, amounting at last balance to
L. 125,231, 14s. 10d., will be enabled to do a great deal towards
the general improvement of the river.
Since the deepening of the river, ship-building has been intro-
200 LANARKSHIRE.
duced here. A large steam vessel for the Mediterranean trade was
lately launched at Glasgow.
Application of the Steam-Engine in propelling vessels. — The
application of steam in propelling vessels long engaged the atten-
tion of men of mechanical genius. In 1736, Mr Jonathan Hulls
obtained a patent for " a new invented machine for carrying ves-
sels or ships out of or into any harbour, port, or river, against wind
and tide, or in a calm;" but this scheme did not succeed. In 1781,
the Marquis de Fouffroy made some unsuccessful experiments in
propelling vessels by steam on the Saone at Lyons. In 1785, Mr
James Rumsey of Virginia, and Mr John Fitch of Philadelphia,
made several experiments, which were also unsuccessful. In the
same year, Mr Patrick Miller of Dalswinton, Dumfries-shire, made
several experiments with paddles, on twin and triple vessels, work-
ed by men and horses, an account of which he published in February
1787. Soon after this, Mr Miller, built a boat with two keels,
between which he introduced a propelling paddle ; and Mr Wil-
liam Symington of Falkirk, applied the steam-engine to it; and
in 1788, Mr Miller and Mr Symington made an experiment with
it on Dalswinton pond. But after several attempts, it was found
that the engine and wheel were so inefficient, as occasionally to
require the assistance of manual labour at a windlass. Some time
after this, Mr Miller caused a larger engine to be made at Carron
Works, and an experiment was made with it on the Forth and
Clyde Canal, which, though answering better than the former, did
not succeed. In 1794, the Earl of Stanhope constructed a steam-
vessel with paddles under her quarters, but with no better success.
In 1801 and 1802, Lord Dundas, then Governor of the Forth and
Clyde Navigation, employed Mr Symington to construct a steam-
boat for that canal, but this boat, from what Mr Symington called
the " opposition of narrow minds," was laid up in a creek near
Bainsford Bridge, where it remained as a wreck for many years.
Mr Taylor and other ingenious individuals also failed in their
laudable attempts.
The whole race of steam propellers having thus left the field
one by one, without being able to effect their object, the ground
was occupied by Mr Henry Bell,* who, having a turn for mechanics,
made a steam-engine of three horse-power, and employed Messrs
* Mr Bell was born in the parish of Torphicben, Linlithgowshire, on 7th April
1767- He died at the Baths, Helensburgh, Dumbartonshire, on 14th November
1830.
GLASGOW. 201
John Wood and Company, ship-builders in Port- Glasgow, to build
a boat for him, which he called the Comet.* On 18th January
1812, the Comet began to ply between Glasgow and Greenock,
and made five miles an hour against a head wind, whilst, by simply
increasing her power, she went at the rate of seven miles an hour.
This was the first vessel that was successfully propelled on a na-
vigable river in Europe, and it is very remarkable, that, notwith-
standing the great progress in mechanical science, no improvement
has yet been made on Mr Bell's mode ; although numerous efforts
have been made here and elsewhere for that purpose. It is true
that boats go swifter now than formerly, but the propelling system
remains the same. To this brief account of the origin of the
steam-propelling system in this country, it must be added that the
Americans preceded us fully four years. In October 1807, Mr
Robert Fulton, an American engineer, launched a steam-boat at
New York, which plied with great effect between that city and
Albany, a distance of 160 miles.
Clyde Steam-vessels in 1831 and 1835.—
Out-sea Boats. ;.
1831. 1835.
Vessels. Tonnage. Vessels. Tonnage.
Liverpool, 5 910 7 1522
Belfast, 3 429 6 918
Dublin, 2 370 3 474 ,
Londonderry, 2 238 2 289
Total, - 12 1947 18 3203
1831. 1835.
Vessels. Tonnage. Vessels. Tonnage.
Boats for goods and passengers plying as far
as Stranraer on the one side of the Clyde,
and to the West Highlands on the other, 8 600 11 834
Boats for passengers only, and plying on the
river and Frith of Clyde, - - - 25 1728 26 1927
Luggage boats, 7 431 8 470
Towing boats, 3 199 4 257
Abstract.
1831. 1835.
Vessels. Tonnage. Vessels. Tonnage.
Out-sea boats, ; - . • 12 1947 J8 3203
Goods and passengers 8 600 1 1 834
Passengers, ..... 25 1728 26 1927
Luggage, 7 431 8 470
Towing, - 3 199 4 257
Total, - 55 4905 67 6691
The above tonnage is register measure ; carpenter's measure in
* The progress in steam navigation of late years is truly wonderful. In January
1812, there was not a steam-boat in Europe excepting the <c Comet," of three horse
power, at Glasgow. Now almost every navigable river in Europe is teeming with
them, Some of the Glasgow boats have now upwards of 240 horse power.
202 LANARKSHIRE.
steam-vessels is about one-third more. All the new boats either
for the out-sea or river trade, are of greater engine power, and are
much more splendidly fitted up for the accommodation of passen-
gers than heretofore. The speed is also greatly improved. The
Liverpool boats in 1 831 were thought to have made good passages,
when they performed the run from Liverpool to Greenock, a dis-
tance of 220 miles, in twenty-four to twenty-six hours. It is now
done much sooner. On Wednesday, 24th June 1835, the steam-
packet City of Glasgow, belonging to Messrs Thomson and Mac-
connell, left Greenock, and arrived in Liverpool in the unprece-
dentedly short period cf seventeen hours and jifty-Jive minutes; and the
steam-packet Manchester, belonging to Messrs James Martin, and
James and George Burns and Company of this city, left the Clarence
dock, Liverpool, on Monday evening the 15th December 1834, and
arrived in Glasgow, a distance of 240 miles, discharged and loaded
her cargoes, and was back again in the same dock within the short
period of sixty hours. This was done in the dead of winter, and shows
what may be accomplished by steam navigation, from studying the
tides in the Mersey and Clyde. The cabin fares for the river boats
are rather less than one penny per mile, and for out-sea boats rather
more. To Liverpool the fare is L. 1, 5s.
While locomotive engines have succeeded on our rail-roads to
admiration, the steam carriages on the common road from Glas-
gow to Paisley have been abandoned.
The Forth and Clyde Navigation. — In 1768, an act of Parlia-
ment was obtained for making a canal from the river Forth, at or
near the mouth of the river Carron, in the county of Stirling, to
the river Clyde, at or near Dalmuir Burnfoot, in the county of Dum-
barton, with a collateral cut to the city of Glasgow. On the 10th
of June in that year, Sir Lawrence Dundas dug out the first spade-
ful of earth for the formation of the canal, and it was opened from
the eastern to the western sea on the 28th of July 1790. On the
llth of November in the same year, the basin at Port Dundas was
finished. The length of the navigation from the Forth to the
Clyde is 35 miles, and the cut to Glasgow, 2J miles. There are
39 locks on the canal, namely, 20 from the Forth to Glasgow, and
19 between the great aqueduct and the Clyde. The length of
the locks between the gates is 74 feet, the width 20 feet, and the
fall 10 feet. The medium width of the surface of the canal is 56
feet, at bottom 27 feet; and the depth nearly 10 feet. The rise
from the east sea to the summit level of the canal at Wineford
GLASGOW. 203
Lock is 156 feet ; and the descent to the Clyde 150 feet, so that
the Forth at the east end of the canal is 6 feet lower than the
Clyde at Bowling. This great canal, which required 22 years for its
completion, was one of the most arduous to execute in the kingdom;
having to encounter rocks, precipices, and quicksands ; in some
places it runs through a deep moss, and in others it is banked 20
feet high. It crosses many rivulets and roads, as well as 2 consi-
derable rivers, the Luggie and the Kelvin. The bridge over the
latter, which consists of four arches, and carries the canal across a
deep valley, cost L. 8509. The canal is supplied with water by
eight reservoirs covering 721 acres, and containing 24,902 lock-
fulls of water.
Mr Kirkman Finlay of Castle Toward, the present governor,
was elected to that important office on 20th March 1816. At the
following balance the rate per cent, on each original share of
L. 100 was L. 25. The annual average revenue during sixteen
years previous to Mr Finlay being appointed governor, was L. 30,323,
7s. 6d. ; and the annual average revenue during sixteen years after
it was L. 46,680, lls. 4d.
In 1832, there were 2 steam passage-boats on the canal ; each
of 24 horse power. These boats went at the rate of six miles an
hour. In 1833, the steam-boats gave place to swift iron boats,
which travel at the rate of 10 miles an hour. Five of these boats
leave Port Dundas for Stirling and Edinburgh, and return every
lawful day, and two additional ones are in a state of preparation.
In 1832, the revenue from steam and heavy drag boats was
LJ213, 19s. 5d.; in 1833 from the swift boats L. 3007, 19s. Id.;
and in 1834, upwards of L. 5000.
Monkland Canal. — This canal affords a cheap communication
between the city of Glasgow, and the collieries in the parishes of
Old and New Monkland, distant about 12 miles. The canal was
originally 35 feet broad at the top, and 24 at the bottom, depth of
water upon the lock sills 5 feet, and the smallest depth throughout
any part of the canal 4 feet 6 inches. The banks have been re-
cently raised, by which a greater depth of water is procured. At
Blackhill there are 4 locks of 2 chambers, each chamber 71 feet
long, 14 feet broad, and 12 feet deep. The head level at the top
of Blackhill is continued to Sheepford, a distance of 8 miles, where
there are 2 single locks of 1 1 feet 6 inches each, which carries the
canal to the river Calder. In the spring of 1813, 3 passage-boats
began to ply to Sheepford, about a mile from Airdrie. This canal
204 LANARKSHIRE.
has been productive to the stockholders for a number of years
past.
Glasgow, Paisley, and Ardrossan Canal. — The expense of land-
carriage from Glasgow to the west coast through the fertile coun-
ties of Renfrew, and Ayr, abounding with coal and limestone, sug-
gested a water conveyance. The operations on the canal com-
menced in May 1807, and the navigation opened between Glasgow
and Johnstone on the 4th of October 1811. Although the canal
was opened at that period, the trade did not commence till April
1812. The length of the canal from Port Eglinton to Ardrossan
is 32f miles, from Port Eglinton to Johnstone 11 miles, breadth
at top 30 feet, at bottom 18 feet, and depth 4 feet 6 inches. There
are no locks on that part of the canal yet executed, viz. between
Port Eglinton and Johnstone ; but when the canal is carried for-
ward, there will be eight near Johnstone to raise the canal to the
summit level, and thirteen to fall down to the harbour of Ardros-
san. On the 6th of November 1810, passage-boats were put on
this canal ; but Mr William Houston, of Johnstone Castle, has the
merit of introducing swift iron boats.
The great increase of passengers may be seen from the follow-
ing statement.
From 1st Oct. 1830 to 30th Sept. 1831, 79455 289 8 34 1-3 275
1st Oct. 1831 to 30th Sept. 1832, 148516 311 14 341-9 477
1st Oct. 1832 to 30th Sept. 1833, 240062 310 20 382-3 774
1st Oct 1833 to 30th Sept. 1834, 307275 313 22 442-3 982
The passengers did not all travel from Glasgow to John-
stone, many of them leaving at intermediate stages. During the
months of July and August 1834, 50,000 persons took passages
on the canal; — the number in one day was 2500. The proportions
of the best cabin and second cabin passengers are, one-fifth of the
best cabin passengers at one penny per mile, and four-fifths of se-
cond cabin passengers at three farthings per mile. The average
total fare on the canal is therefore sixteen-twentieths of a penny
per mile. The swift boats on the Forth and Clyde, and Union
Canals, ply at similar rates.
Union Canal. — The Union Canal was begun on the 3d of
March 1818. It is 31^ miles in length from Port-Hopetoun, near
Edinburgh, to Port-Downie, near Falkirk. The navigation for
ten miles west from Port-Hopetoun was opened on the 22d of
March 1822, and to Port-Downie early in May thereafter. The
GLASGOW. 205
canal is on a level line for 30 miles from- Port Hopetoun, — the re-
maining distance is occupied by 11 locks, each 10 feet deep, so
that the Union Canal at the head of the locks is 110 feet above
the Forth and Clyde Navigation. The Union Canal is 40 feet
broad at the top, 20 feet at the bottom, and 5 feet deep. This
canal has not yet been productive to such stockholders as have not
an interest in the Forth and Clyde Navigation.
The Garnkirk Railway from Glasgow to near Airdrie was par-
tially opened on the 2d of July 1831. On 1st February 1832, the
locomotive engine, the " Glasgow," built by Messrs Johnston and
M'Nab of this city, hauled a train of 36 loaded coal waggons 8£
miles, a gross weight of about 145 tons, in 1 hour and 7 minutes, thus
carrying a load of twenty times her own weight. This was the first
locomotive engine made in Scotland on the improved construction.
Stage-Coaches. — Stage-coaches were first used in Scotland in
1678. The first mail-coach from London to Glasgow arrived at
the Saracen's Head on Monday the 7th of July 1788. At that
period the mail went by Leeds, a distance of 405 miles, and ar-
rived in 65 hours, travelling at nearly 6J miles in the hour; in 1835
the mail goes by Wetherby, a distance of 395 miles, and arrives in
41 1 hours. The speed from Carlisle to Glasgow is at the rate of
1 1 miles an hour. On the 10th of January 1799, Mr John Gard-
ner of the Bucks Head, Glasgow, started a coach to Edinburgh
with four horses, which performed the journey of 42 miles in 6
hours. The time now occupied on the road by stage-coaches is
about 4-jr hours.
In 1833 there were on an average 61 stage coaches, which de-
parted from, and returned to Glasgow, every lawful day. The
mails every day are, — to London, 2; Edinburgh, 12; Paisley, 13;
Hamilton, 5 ; Lanark, 3 ; Perth, 2 ; Stirling, 2 ; and to other
towns, 22. These coaches were drawn by 183 horses, and 671
horses are kept for them. They accommodated 832 passengers ;
viz. inside 284, outside 548.
The intercourse with Glasgow by coaches, steam-boats, track-
boats, and rail-roads, is so great that it almost exceeds belief. As
some of the coaches and steam-boats depart and arrive more than
once a-day, and the mail-coaches every day, the following may be
taken as a low average of passengers by stage-coaches, and steam-
boats ; while the others are from the books of the respective com-
panies. During 1834, 61 stage-coaches, each averaging twelve
passengers, arrived and departed during 313 lawful days. This
206 LANARKSHIRE.
gave 458,232 persons in the year. By 37 steam-boats, 25 passen-
gers each 579,050; by the swift boats on the Forth and Clyde Na-
vigation and Union Canal, 91,975; by the light iron boats on the
Paisley Canal, 307,275 ; by the boats on the Monkland Canal,
31,784; and by the Glasgow and Garnkirk Rail-road, 1 18,882; the
gross number of passengers amounting to 1,587,198.
Private Carriages. — Mr Allan Dreghorn, timber-merchant and
builder, was the first person who started a private carriage in this
city. It was made by his own workmen in 1752. The number of
carriages in the city and suburbs charged with duty in 1832 was
402, viz. stage-coaches 61; hackney carriages 140; private carri-
ages, 201, viz. with four wheels 114, two wheels 87. The private
carriages have increased considerably during the last two years.
Relays of post-chaises did not exist in Scotland except on the
roads from Edinburgh to London, till the year 1776; and even in
England, relays are of comparatively recent date. Mr John Glass-
ford and Mr Andrew Thomson Senior, Glasgow merchants, went
to London on horseback in the year 1739. At that period there
was no turnpike road till they came to Grantham, within 110 miles
of London. Up to that point they travelled upon a narrow cause -
way, with an unmade soft road upon each side of it; and they met
from time to time strings of pack-horses, from thirty to forty in a
gang, — the mode by which goods were transported from one part
of the country to another.
Mills. — The town mills on the Molendinar Burn, erected
about the middle of the fourteenth century, supplied from the
Hogganfield and Frankfield lochs, are not of so much use to the
inhabitants as they were before steam-mills were introduced. The
water and steam-mills on the river Kelvin, at Partick and Clay-
slap, belonging to the corporation of bakers, are very extensive, and
of a superior construction. The establishment contains a large
steam-mill, seven water-wheels, twenty-two pairs of stones, (Bour-
deaux Burrs,) six boultin, and three shealing machines. The gra-
naries and kilns are proportionate to the mills, which can grind
12,000 bushels of wheat weekly. The bakers got a grant of their
old mill at Partick from the Regent Murray, for their services at
the battle of Langside on 13th May 1568. The value of the mill
property is upwards of L. 50,000.
Markets. — The markets for butcher-meat, fish, cheese, butter,
&c. have been much neglected of late. The great increase of
the town has induced persons at a distance from the markets to
GLASGOW. 207
resort to shops. The live-cattle market is, however, an excep-
tion, and is entitled to particular notice. Prior to the year 1818,
the principal butchers in this city were frequently obliged to tra-
vel a circuit of seventy or eighty miles to purchase cattle in lots,
and to rent expensive parks in the neighbourhood of the city .to
graze them in; but since the erection of the live-cattle market,
the mode of supply is completely changed. In 1818, the magis-
trates fitted up a spacious market-place, between the great roads to
Edinburgh, by Gallowgate and Duke Street, in which there are a
commodious inn, stables, sheds, a byre to contain 120 bullocks
in view, and 260 pens to contain 9360 sheep. This market-place,
allowed to be the most complete in the kingdom, occupies an area
of 29,560 square yards, or rather more than six imperial acres, is
paved with whinstones, and enclosed with stone walls. Since its for-
mation, graziers and dealers from Aberdeenshire to Dumfries-shire,
and from Berwickshire to Argyleshire, find it their interest to
send their cattle to this market, where they find a ready sale, and
return in cash. It is admitted that this market has been of great
use to all classes of the community, excepting perhaps the more
wealthy butchers. The graziers and dealers are benefited by a
regular sale, without running the risk of bad debts. The public
have a more regular and plentiful supply of butcher-meat of the
best quality. The butcher is saved the trouble, and the public,
the expense, of travelling. The butcher of small capital, who for-
merly had not the means of getting good meat, can now go to
market ; and if his capital be equal to the purchase of a bullock,
and a dozen of sheep or lambs, he can compete with his more
wealthy brethren. Monopoly is now unknown. The dues of the
market were let by public sale in 1832 on lease, at L. 1075 per an-
num, which leaves an annual profit to the trustees of upwards of
L. 500. It was Dr Cleland who projected and established this im-
portant market..
The advantages arising from this market have induced the Irish
graziers to send cattle to it. On the 18th December 1834, the
Green Isle steamer arrived in Glasgow from Drogheda, loaded ex-
clusively with cattle and pigs. This was the first cattle-carrying
steamer that arrived in the Clyde, and the traffic is to be continued.
In 1822, a few rumps of beef were sent by the Edinburgh butchers
to the Glasgow market, and this trade has increased so much, that
during 1834, 7210 rumps were sent to Glasgow, the average value
of each being 20s.
Public Buildings. — In a work of this nature, an architectural
208 LANARKSHIRE.
description of the public buildings in Glasgow would be superflu-
ous. We shall therefore confine ourselves merely to mentioning a
few of the most prominent of those appropriated for ecclesiastical
purposes, and a few for the civil concerns of the city. For eccle-
siastical, the first in order is the Cathedral, which is allowed to
be the most splendid edifice of old English architecture that is to
be found in Scotland. Its length from east to west is 319 feet,
width 63 feet, height of the nave 90 feet, and of the choir 85 feet.
In this edifice there are 2 steeples, 147 pillars, and 159 windows
of various dimensions, many of them of exquisite workmanship.*
* Mr Rickman, the celebrated architect, who gave the design for St David's Church
in this city, in his work on Gothic Architecture, 3d edit., p. 336, says, " That the
crypt of the cathedral of Glasgow is not equalled by any in the kingdom. The piers
and groins are all of the most intricate character, the most beautiful design, and ex-
cellent execution. The flowered capitals of the piers are much like those of York."
The choir of the cathedral was renovated several years ago by the corporation, in a
manner which does it great honour, so much so, that it is not too much to say, that
the Cathedral Church of Glasgow is unrivalled in Scotland. But to the regret of
every man of taste, the magnificent nave has been allowed to get into a state of great
dilapidation. The arches, and the tabernacle work, and the images at the rood-loft at
the east end are in decay, and the mullions and flowing tracery of the windows in the
north and south fa9ades, are in. a similar condition. The west end is bounded by a
bare wall, erected 170 years ago, and quite incompatible with the grandeur and ar-
chitectural effect of the other parts. Such is the condition of the nave of the Glas-
gow cathedral. Instead of its being a great ornament to the city, it is calculated to im-
press strangers with the lowest estimate of the taste and public spirit of the citizens of
Glasgow.
Impressed with the importance of the measure, Dr Cleland frequently suggested
to the public the renovation of the nave, and at length, on the 22d October 1829, he
drew up, printed, and widely circulated, an appeal to his fellow-citizens, and com-
menced a subscription for this important and necessary work, but owing to an unex-
pected difficulty, raised on the part of the crown, to whom the edifice belongs, the pro-
jected improvements were postponed. The public mind thus directed, never lost
sight of the scheme. In 1832, Mr Archibald M'Lellan, then a member of the town-
council, and president of the Dilletanti Society, suggested, in his valuable work on
Cathedrals, that the Outer High Church, then deeply affected by dry rot, should
be abandoned as a place of worship, and restored to the nave. While this magni-
ficent scheme would have had no chance of success in 1829, as matters then were,
there is now every prospect of its being carried into effect, from the circumstance of
that church having, in 1835, been formally declared by two eminent physicians,-}-
unfit for a place of worship. The corporation, as proprietors of the seats, having
thus no alternative, have commenced the building of a church in High John
Street, in lieu of the Outer High Church. The nave, including the space now occu-
pied by that church, will then be a receptacle for monuments to departed worth, and
the grand entrance to the Cathedral Church. Even in its present dilapidated state,
there are monuments in the nave, which would be considered elegant in Westminster
Abbey, and worthy of a place in St Paul's Cathedral.
There is now every reason to believe that Government will contribute liberally to
the renovation of the Cathedral out of the burgh and barony teinds, Dr Cleland hav-
ing lately had an opportunity of pointing out the defects to the Right Honourable
Sir John Cam Hobhouse, at that time Chief Commissioner of the Woods and Forests,
which Board has been lately entrusted with the management of the Crown eccle-
siastical edifices.
Some time prior to 1817, his Majesty's Government resolved that in future they would
not give a tack of Crown teinds without a fine of three years free teind. On 5th July
1823, William Smith, Esq. of Carbeth-Guthrie, then Lord Provost, and Dr Cleland at-
f Dr Burns and Dr Balmanno.
GLASGOW. 209
St Andrew's, St David's, and St Enoch's Churches, and the Al-
bion Street, George Street, and Wellington Street Chapels, be-
longing to the Dissenters, are fine specimens of architecture.
For civil purposes the Royal Exchange is prominent. This build-
ing, from designs by Mr David Hamilton, a native of Glasgow, is
remarkable for its beauty, its extent, and its architectural decora-
tions. Mr Hamilton was also architect to Hamilton Palace, one
of the greatest architectural ornaments in Scotland. The Hun-
terian Museum, from designs by Mr William Stark, is a beautiful
model of a Greek Temple. The Royal Infirmary by Adams, and
the Lunatic Asylum by Stark, are at once ornamental and appro-
priate for their respective purposes.
Streets and Squares. — The streets, with the exception of some
of those in the old part of the town, are all sixty feet wide, and the
houses are built of stone and covered with slate. There are four
squares, viz. Blythswood's, George's, St Enoch's, and St Andrew's.
The three former are planted with shrubberry, and St Andrew's
Church stands in the centre of the last.
Burying Grounds. — There are twenty burying grounds in the
city and suburbs.* The Necropolis, formed by the Merchants'
House in 1830, in their elevated park adjoining the cathedral, in
imitation of the cemetery Pere la Chaise in Paris, stands unrival-
led in the kingdom for picturesque effect.
tended the Exchequer Court in Edinburgh, and obtained a tack of the teinds for the
corporation and the Barony-heritors on the following terms :
Three years free teind of the burgh and barony, as ascertained by the
solicitor of teinds, - L. 7137 11 8
Deduct for ten heritors on cause shown to the court, - - 679 8 0
Fine paid for the tack of the teinds for 19 years, from 1817, the
period when the last tack expired, - L. 6458 3 8
The Lords of the Treasury were pleased to allocate
from the above sum for repairing the cathedral, L. 3000 0 0
Grant to the Botanic Garden, - - - 2000 0 0
5000 0 0
Reserved by the Treasury, but since laid out in repairing the cathedral, L. 1458 3 8
The lease expires in 1836, when there is no doubt a similar fine will be exacted.
* When the north-west burying ground was formed, it was distant from houses, but
now, from the great increase of population, it is in the very centre of the city, sur-
rounded by houses on all sides, and consequently very offensive to the neighbourhood.
As it would be a very arduous undertaking to remove a public burying ground, where
there are burying places for more than 500 families, Dr Cleland suggested throwing
the whole burying ground into a grand vaulted cemetery, the groined arches sup-
porting a floor of upwards of 7000 square yards, to be appropriated for public purposes.
This magnificent scheme, of which a plan was lithographed at the expense of the cor-
poration, and widely circulated, would not only relieve the town of a nuisance, but
from the central situation of the ground, would give an excellent opportunity for ba-
zaar purposes, while light and air would be preserved for the health of the inhabitants.
210 LANARKSHIRE.
Monuments and Statues. — Amongst others may be enumerated
an equestrian statue of William III. erected at the cross; an obe-
lisk in honour of Lord Nelson, in the Green ; a pedestrian statue
of Sir John Moore, in bronze, on a granite pedestal, by Flaxman,
in George Square ; a pedestrian statue of William Pitt, in marble,
by Flaxman, in the Town-Hall ; a trophy monument in honour of
Lieutenant- Colonel Cadogan, (71st, or Glasgow Regiment,) in-
marble, by Hamilton, in the nave of the cathedral ; a pillar sur-
mounted by a statue in honour of John Knox, by Forrest, in the
Necropolis ; a pedestrian statue of James Watt, in bronze, on a
granite pedestal, in George Square, by Chantry; also a pedes-
trian statue of James Watt, in marble, by Chantry, in the Hun-
terian Museum ; and an architectural monument, with a statue of
William Me Gavin, by Forrest, in the Necropolis. It has not yet
been determined in what part of the town the monumental column
in honour of Sir Walter Scott is to be placed.
Theatre. — Previously to the Reformation, and for some time af-
terwards, pantomime representations of the history of our Saviour,
his miracles, and passion, were exhibited in this city. It does not
appear that any theatrical representation was allowed in this city
from the Reformation in 1560 till 1750. At the latter period, Mr
Burrell's dancing-hall in the High Street was used for that pur-
pose,— being four years after the theatre in the Canongate of Edin-
burgh was opened, which was the first regular theatre in Scotland
after the Reformation. In 1752, a booth or temporary theatre was
fitted up adjoining the wall of the archbishop's palace, in which
Digges, Love, Stampier, and Mrs Ward performed. Messrs Jack-
son, Love, and Beate, comedians, built a regular theatre in the
Grahamston suburb, which was opened in the spring of 1764 by
Mrs Bellamy, and other respectable performers. On the first night
of performance, the machinery and scenery were set on fire by some
disorderly persons. When the stage was refitted, the theatre was
occasionally kept open, but with very indifferent success; and at
one o'clock on the morning of the 16th April 1782, it was burnt
to the ground. There was no theatre in Glasgow from this period
till January 1785, when the Dunlop Street Theatre, erected by Mr
Jackson, was opened by Mrs Siddons, Mrs Jourdan, and other per-
formers. From this period the taste for theatricals increased so
much, that a subscription was set on foot for a theatre upon a large
scale ; and on the 24th of April 1805, the most magnificent provin-
cial theatre in the empire was opened in Queen Street, at an ex-
GLASGOW. 211
pense of L. 18,500. It was let on lease for L. 1200 per annum ;
but it was soon found that the taste for theatricals did not keep
pace with the sums laid out for accommodation and splendour. The
premises were then let at the reduced rent of L. 800 to others, who
also failed to implement their engagement, and even when the rent
was lowered to L. 400, it was paid with difficulty. The property
was then sold at a price, only equal to the outstanding debts and
ground rent, so that the shareholders got nothing. This splendid
edifice was burned to the ground on the forenoon of the 10th of
January 1829; a gas light having come in contact with the ceiling
of one of the lobbies, leading to the upper gallery. After this
catastrophe, the old theatre in Dunlop Street was enlarged and
embellished by Mr Alexander ; and is found to be quite large
enough for the play-going people of Glasgow and neighbour-
hood.
Cock-Fighting. — In former times cock-fighting was so prevalent
in this part of the country, that on certain holidays, school-boys pro-
vided cocks, and the fight was superintended by the master. But
as civilization advanced, this practice gradually disappeared, and
at length the amusement in the estimation of many came under
the denomination of cruelty to animals. During the latter part of the
last and the beginning of the present century, cock-fighting in this
city was conducted in a clandestine manner. In 1807, our cock-fight-
ing amateurs, finding a vacant temporary building in Queen Street,
made preparations for fighting a main, but when the sport had
just commenced, a portion of the city and county magistrates made
their appearance and dismissed the meeting. Since that period
mains have occasionally been fought here without the interference
of the authorities. Of late, however, the desire for this amusement
has so much increased, that in this year (1835) a spacious build-
ing has been erected for a cock-pit in Hope Street, on the joint
stock principle. This building, which is seated for about 280 per-
sons, has suitable accommodation for the judges, handlers, and feed-
ers, and is inferior in nothing to the Westminster pit, but in its
dimensions. The company who frequent the Glasgow cock-pit
do not belong to the " exclusives;" for here we have all grades from
the senator to the journeyman butcher.
Corporation of Glasgoiv. — Glasgow was governed by a Provost
and Bailies so early as the year 1268. In 1605, the constitution
of the burgh was settled in three distinct bodies, viz. the town-
212 LANARKSHIRE.
council, the merchants' and the trades' houses. The town-coun-
cil consisted of certain persons from the rank of merchants and
trades. In 1801, some alteration was made on the constitution;
and from that period till 1833, the corporation consisted of a
Provost, five Bailies, twelve Councillors from the merchants, and
eleven from the trades rank, a master of work, and a treasurer.
The Gorbals and water bailies were chosen from the council, who
elected themselves. One-third went out of the council every year,
and could not return for three years. The merchants' house sent
a list of three persons to the council, from which they elected one
to be Dean of Guild ; and in like manner the trades' house, when
one of the three was elected convener.
Since 1833, when the Burgh Reform Act passed, the Town-
Council has been chosen by the Parliamentary constituency, con-
sisting of upwards of 7000 persons, who pay a yearly rent of at
least L. 10. The city is divided into five wards, each ward elect-
ing six Councillors. The Dean of Guild and Convener of the
Trades are elected by their respective houses. When added to
the Councillors, they elect a Provost, five Bailies, a Treasurer, and
Master of Work; one- third of the Councillors go out of office every
year, but may be immediately re-elected. The revenue of the city
varies from L. 15000 to L. 16000.
Previously to the passing of the Reform Act, the burghs of
Glasgow, Rutherglen, Renfrew, and Dumbarton, elected one in-
dividual to represent them in Parliament ; but since that act has
been in operation, the above-mentioned constituency for Glasgow
return two Members to Parliament. The first Members under
the Reform Act were Mr James Ewing of Levenside, and Mr
James Oswald of Shieldhall, both merchants in Glasgow.
In thus giving a brief account of the former and present
constitution of the corporation of Glasgow, it has been shewn
that the Burgh Reform Act has placed the management of the
corporation affairs in the hands of Councillors elected by those
who enjoy the ten pound franchise. That the time had arrived
when a salutary Reform in the Scotch burghs became necessary
is admitted by all who had the good of their country at heart ;
abuses in the lapse of ages having crept into the management of
many of them.
It is, however, gratifying to know, that, for more than a century
bypast, the managers of the corporation of Glasgow have been
GLASGOW. 213
distinguished for ability, purity of conduct, and integrity in the
discharge of their multifarious duties. The city, from having had
a mean appearance, is now the most splendid of any manufacturing
city or town in the empire. Nor has their exertions been confin-
ed only to the embellishment of the city ; for trade, commerce, and
numerous benevolent institutions have prospered in their hands, and
when they surrendered their trust to the Reformed Town- Council
in November 1833, the funds were in a flourishing condition.
Several years ago, when that able and indefatigable reformer,
Lord Archibald Hamilton, advocated Burgh Reform in the House
of Commons, his Lordship stated in the Committee of which he
was Chairman, that the affairs of the city of Glasgow were con-
ducted in the most honourable and open manner. Indeed, the
faithful and disinterested management of the corporation concerns
of Glasgow has long been acknowledged all over the country.
Of the Reformed Town- Council the citizens of Glasgow have not
yet had much experience. There is, however, one part of their
conduct, which, as we consider it an evil, we animadvert upon, in
the hope of repressing it in their successors. Some of the coun-
cillors, unwarily, or it may be from ambition, pledged themselves to
certain measures, and thereby became delegates of a party, instead of
being representatives of the whole community. This is to be regret-
ted the more, as a majority of the council have suspended a part
of the local taxes for a purpose not affecting the general interest.
Should this measure be carried into effect, which the best informed
consider illegal, it will necessarily prevent their successors from
improving the city, building churches, reducing church seat-rents
for the poor, maintaining market-places, gaols, and other local ser-
vices,— for which such taxes were long since granted by royal au-
thority or legislative enactment.
It was to be expected that, in a great community like this, there
would be some political demagogues who, intoxicated by the power
conferred on them by the Burgh Reform Act, would abuse it ; but-
let us indulge the hope, that, when the political effervescence has
had time to subside, the electors and elected will join hand in hand
for the public good without respect to political party, and that the
future councillors, like many of those now intrusted with the munici-
pal concerns of the city, will be men of integrity and honourable
feeling, whose every effort will be to promote the good of the com-
munity.
LANARK. P
214 LANARKSHIRE.
Gaol and Court-Houses. — For a number of years previous to
1807, the gaol at the cross had become deficient in almost every
requisite. Situated in the centre of the city, without court-yards,
chapel, or infirmary, it contained no more than thirty-two apart-
ments for the accommodation of prisoners of every description, col-
lected occasionally from the populous counties of Lanark, Renfrew,
and Dumbarton, and invariably at the justiciary circuits, — having
very slender accommodation for the local courts of justice, whilst
that for the circuit court of justiciary was quite inadequate. Im-
pressed with the necessity of affording more suitable accommoda-
tion for the courts of justice, and more convenient and healthful
apartments for prisoners, the magistrates and council, on the 13th
of February 1807, resolved to erect a new gaol and public offices
in a healthy situation adjoining the river, at the bottom of the pub-
lic green. This building, which cost L. 34,800, contains, exclu-
sively of the public offices, 122 apartments for prisoners. As
there is a water-closet in each gallery, every individual prisoner,
debtor and delinquent, has access to one of them, and to an unli-
mited supply of pure filtered water from the Water Company's
pipes ; and pipes are introduced into each court, from which they
are daily washed, and the air in them frequently cooled in hot
weather. There are two rooms, with anti-rooms, insulated from
the gaol, for persons under sentence of death, and so constructed,
that irons are never used. It is believed that this is the only pri-
son in the kingdom where persons under sentence of death are
not put in irons. Every room is provided with the necessary uten-
sils at the expense of the corporation. There is a well-aired In-
firmary room, though it is seldom used, from the healthiness of the
prisoners ; and the chapel is seated to contain about 200 persons.
The governor's house is so constructed, that, from his sitting par-
lour, he can overlook both court-yards. The justiciary hall is so
spacious as to contain about 500 persons. It is, however, much
to be regretted that there are some radical defects in this gaol.
The number of incarcerations in the gaol for debt has of late
years happily decreased, whilst the incarcerations for delinquency
have been rather on the increase.
In 1831, it was ascertained for Government that there were 630
persons incarcerated for debt, viz. on Justice of Peace decrees,
110; Sheriff's decrees, 287; acts of warden, 61; letters of cap-
tion, 150; warrants medit.fugce, 22.
For delinquency, 758 ; viz. on criminal warrants, 679 ; deserted
GLASGOW. 215
from the army, 42; lawburrows, 11; breach * of sequestration, 9;
breach of servitude, 5 ; breach of game-laws, 1 ; Crown debtors,
now classified with delinquents, 1 1. During the last seven years
there have been no deaths among the debtors, and only 4 among the
delinquents.
The average number of delinquents committed yearly during
five years, ending on the 31st December 1834, was 667. From
1765 to 1830, 89 persons were executed in Glasgow, of which
number 5 were females. During the first 12 years there were only
6 persons executed, whilst in the last 12 there were 37. During
66 years previously to 1831, there were 26 in which there were no
executions, 15 in which there was 1 each year; ten, 2; seven, 3;
four, 4 ; one, 5 ; and two in which there were 6. From the 29th
of September 1830, to the 20th of January 1834, 12 persons have
been executed in Glasgow, viz. 1 1 males, and 1 female ; of whom
6 were for murder, 1 for rape, 1 for hamesucken, 1 for robbery,
and 3 for housebreaking and theft. From the 4th of May 1818,
to the 8th of October 1834, 6 persons received sentence of death,
but had their punishment commuted to transportation for life, viz.
4 males and 2 females ; of whom 1 for murder, 1 for hamesucken
and rape, 1 for robbery, and 1 for housebreaking and theft ; the two
females for issuing forged bank notes.
Bridewell. — The Bridewell in Duke Street was opened on the
8th of May 1798, and supported by the corporation funds for up-
wards of twenty-four years. This building, which still remains,
consists of six stories, and contains 105 cells. Although but ill
suited for classification, it answered the purpose for a number of
years; but, from the great increase of population, and consequently
of crime, in the city and county, it was agreed that the new build-
ings should be so large as to contain the city and county prisoners,
combining the improvements which experience had pointed out.
The authorities having procured an act of Parliament for assessing
the city and county for building and maintaining a Bridewell, they
erected a set of buildings so well suited for the purpose, as to be
the admiration of all who have made prisons and prison-discipline
their study. This prison, which adjoins the former one, was open-
ed on the 25th of December 1824. It combines all the advantages
of modern improvement, security, seclusion, complete classifica-
tion, and healthful accommodation.
The commitments in 1834 were as follows :
216 LANARKSHIRE.
Males above 17 years of age, ,- - - - 813
Males below 17 years of age, - 222
1035
Females above 17 years of age, - - 864
Females below 17 years of age, 68
932
Total commitments, - . 1967
Remained on 2d of August 1833, - - 356
Prisoners in all, - 2323
Liberated during the year, - - 2030
Remaining on 2d of August 1834, - 293
The average number daily in the prison was 320 ; viz. males,
162; females, 158.
Abstract accounts for the year ended 2d of August 1834.
To repairs on the buildings, - L. 156 10 0
Salaries and wages, - - 835 14 11
L.992 4 11
By amount of prisoners' labour, &c. - L. 2182 6 2
To victuals, bedding, cloaths, washing, me-
dicine, coal, candle, furniture, machinery
utensils, stationery, &c. - - 1664 6 0
Cash paid prisoners for surplus earnings, 116 5 3
1780 11 3
Surplus to be deducted from salaries and wages, 401 1411
Balance, being the cost of Bridewell for the year ended 2d August 1834, L. 590 10 0
It appears from the above statement, that, besides the sum of
L. 116, 5s. 3d. paid to inmates, the produce of the work perform-
ed maintained all the prisoners, with a surplus of L. 401, 14s. lid.
— which surplus goes to lessen the expense of repairs on the build-
ings, and the salaries and wages. The whole deficiency, amount-
ing to L.590, 10s. divided by 1967, the number committed, shews
that the net expense to the public for every committal is no more
than 6s., the average period of residence being 59J days. Taking
another view, the deficiency of L. 590, 10s. when applied to 320,
the daily average of inmates, shews the expense of each prisoner
to be L. 1, 16s. lid. per annum, 2s, lOd. per month, or about
Sijfd. weekly.
This distinguished establishment, so creditable to the city and
county, while inferior to no prison for discipline and cleanliness, is
conspicuous for the economy* with which it is managed. The bare
* The following abstract statement of the General Penitentiary at Millbank,
Middlesex, taken from the report of a committee, whereof the Right Hon. Lord
Bexley was chaii-man, (ordered to be printed by the House of Commons on 10th of
March 1831,) may be contrasted with the foregoing statement of the Glasgow Bride-
well.
On 31st December 1830, there were in the Penitentiary 566 prisoners, viz. males,
405; females, 161.
GLASGOVfc 217
recital of the foregoing facts forms a high panegyric on the talents
and industry of Mr Brebner, the governor.
House of Refuge. — During the last thirty years, several attempts
have been made in this city to reclaim vagrant boys, but hitherto
without effect. This arose chiefly from the youths being already
confirmed in evil habits, and from the want of an asylum and rigid
superintendence. To abate this moral pestilence, a subscription
has lately been entered into, which now exceeds L. 10,500, for the
erection of a permanent House of Refuge in this city. Four acres
of the lands of White-hill have been purchased, and a plan by Mi-
John Bryce, architect, combining all the recent improvements, has
been adopted. To those who, like us, have long witnessed the de-
pravity of a class of society to be found in all large manufacturing
communities, this announcement must give great satisfaction, and to
none more than to the Right Honourable the Lord Justice- Clerk,
(Boyle,) who so often from the Bench, in lamenting the number
and depravity of young thieves, recommended a house of refuge.
The number of orphans, and, what is even worse, the number
of children of depraved parents, thrown on the public without any
one to take care of them, almost exceeds belief. A great propor-
tion of these children are brought up in ignorance, in idleness, and
vice, without the fear of God, and very little of man. To prevent
those evils in the very young, and to mitigate those in more ad-
vanced years, is the benevolent object of the managers of this in-
stitution.
While the infant and Sunday schools are thrown open to children
Expense of the establishment, to the total amount of expenses incurred between the
1st of January and 31st of December 1830, including the necessary repairs on the
building, and the sum of L. 195, 13s. lid. for shoring the boundary wall, and
L. 765, 10s. calculated for wages to the prisoners employed in the general service
of the establishment, - L. 20612 7 0
Deduct three-fourths of L. 765, 10s. allowed for pri-
soners' wages, they being paid only one-fourth there-
of, and the whole amount of such wages being in-
cluded in the above sum of L. 20612, 7s., 574 811
Gross expense, , L.20037 18 1
By three-fourths of earnings of prisoners employed in
manufactures, estimated at the usual rate, - 2197 13 10
Net expense, .... L. 17840 4 3
To which add the amount of articles supplied by his Majesty's
Stationery Office, - i 143 2 9
L. 17983 7 "o
Mr Potter Macqueen, M. P. in his pamphlet on prisons, states, that the average
expense of a culprit in the Millbank Penitentiary, in the years 1818-19-20-21, was
L. 55, 15s. ; and Mr Crawford, in his report to the House of Commons in August
1834, shews that prisoners in the county gaol of Lincoln cost L. 32 per head.
218 LANARKSHIRE.
of this class of society, an asylum in the House of Refuge will be
found for those in more advanced years, — where moral and religious
instruction will be communicated, and mechanical trades learned,
by which, with the fostering care of the managers, while in the asy-
lum, and after they leave it, they may become useful members of
society.
Police. — Till the appointment of a statutory police in 1800, the
citizens of Glasgow performed the duties of watching and ward-
ing. The buildings in Albion Street are very extensive, and were
the first in Scotland erected for the exclusive purpose of police.
Of the concerns of the establishment, which is placed under the
management of the magistrates, and one commissioner for each of
35 wards chosen by the rate payers, the following is an abstract
for 1834: Disbursements L. 15,033, 13s. 6 Jd. The receipts arise
from Is. per pound on rents exceeding L. 15, and on lower rents
less proportionally. Besides the superintendent, collector, clerk,
surveyor, and surgeon, there are 8 heads of departments, 3 lieute-
nants, 58 officers, 135 night-watchmen, 8 coal weighers, 21 lamp-
lighters, 50 firemen, and 20 supernumeraries ; in all 308 persons
on the establishment. There are 2050 gas lamps with single jets,
and 47 with 3 jets ; in all 2097 lamps. Of this number between
800 and 900 are taken down in the summer months.
Bridges. — Bridges are a sort of edifices very difficult to execute,
on account of the inconvenience of laying foundations, and wall-
ing under water. There are three stone bridges, and one timber
bridge over the Clyde at Glasgow, exclusive of Rutherglen stone
bridge at Barrowfield in the Barony parish.
The original timber bridge over the Clyde having gone into de-
cay about the year 1340, Bishop Rae built a stone bridge at
Stockwell Street in 1345. The bridge was originally twelve feet
wide, and consisted of eight arches. In 1777 an addition of ten
feet was made to its breadth, and two of the northmost arches,
built up for the purpose of confining the river within narrower
bounds. The communication between the city and the south-
west parts of Scotland for more than 400 years was by this bridge.
In 1820-21, it was greatly improved by the formation of footpaths,
suspended on very tasteful iron framings. The bridge as it now
stands is 415 feet long, and 34 wide within the railing.
The foundation stone of the Jamaica Street Bridge was laid on
the 29th of September 1768, by the Right Worshipful Provost
George Murdoch, acting provincial grand master mason for Glasgow,
GLASGOW. 219
The bridge had seven arches, was 30 feet wide within the parapets,
and 500 feet in length. The design was given by Mr William
Mylne, architect in Edinburgh, and executed by Mr John Adam.
The foundation stone of Hutcheson's Bridge was laid in 1794,
by Provost Gilbert Hamilton, near the foot of Salt Market Street,
to connect the lands of Hutchesontown with the city. It had five
arches, was 406 feet long, and 26 feet wide within the parapets.
On the 18th of November 1795, during an uncommonly high
flood in the river, it was unfortunately swept away, after the pa-
rapets were nearly completed.
The foundation stone of a new bridge for Hutchestown was laid
on the 18th of August 1829, by the Right Worshipful Robert
Dalglish, substitute grand master mason for Glasgow, and precep-
tor of the hospital. This bridge is built on the site of the for-
mer one, from a design by Mr Robert Stevenson, civil-engineer;
it is 36 feet wide within the parapets, 406 feet long, and has five
arches. Mr John Stedman, contractor.
The Timber Bridge at Portland Street, erected in 1832, is 30
feet wide within the railing, has a carriage way and two side pave-
ments. It was designed by Mr Robert Stevenson, civil-engineer.
Mr William Robertson, contractor.
The increase of trade and population in the city and adjacent
districts having been such as to render the Jamaica Street or
Broomielaw Bridge unfit for its purposes, the trustees resolved to
remove it, and to erect in its stead a bridge which would afford
more suitable accommodation, such as the increasing population of
the neighbouring districts required. Having obtained an act of
Parliament, they procured a design from Mr Thomas Telford, ci-
vil-engineer, and contracted with Messrs John Gibb and Son, for
building the bridge. It is faced with Aberdeen granite, and has
a very gentle acclivity. It is 560 feet long over the newals, and
60 feet wide over the parapets ; it has seven arches, and is wider
than any river 'bridge in the kingdom.
To commemorate the rebuilding of this bridge it was resolved
that the foundation stone should be laid with masonic honours.
Dr Cleland having been requested to act as grand director of the
ceremonial, preparations were made on a magnificent scale. Ha-
ving procured a commission for the Lord Provost to lay the foun-
dation stone, from the Right Worshipful Henry Monteith of Car-
stairs, provincial grand-master for Glasgow, the director request-
ed the very Reverend Principal Macfarlan to preach the sermon
220 LANARKSHIRE.
in the cathedral, the Rev. Dr Macleod of Campsie, to act as grand-
chaplain, and Mr Watson, superintendent of police, as grand-mar-
shal.
In addition to the civic and ecclesiastical authorities of the city,
the procession was honoured by the Magistrates of the following
burghs, viz. Rutherglen, Irvine, Renfrew, Paisley, Hamilton,
Gorbals, Port- Glasgow, Greenock, Pollock- Shaws, Calton, Air-
dries Anderston. Besides the Grand Lodge of Scotland, thirty-two
provincial mason lodges attended the procession in all the splen-
dour of the craft,*
The details of this ceremonial, the most splendid that ever took
place in Glasgow, have been preserved in a pamphlet, printed at
the expense of the Trustees.
Banks. — The Bank of Scotland was established by charter in
Edinburgh in 1695, and the following year in Glasgow; but was
recalled for want of business in 1697. In 1731, it was again esta-
blished in Glasgow, and recalled in 1733, from a similar cause.
In 1749, the Ship Bank commenced business. This was the first
bank belonging to the city ; and till lately it was called the Old
Bank. Since 1749, a number of banks have been established in
Glasgow. The Glasgow Arms Bank commenced business about
the year 1753, the. Thistle Bank in 1761, and the Glasgow Mer-
chants' Bank, and Messrs Watson's and Thomson's banking-houses
were formed shortly afterwards. The Royal Bank of Scotland,
which was established by charter in Edinburgh in 1727, sent a
branch to Glasgow in 1783. The Glasgow Banking Company com-
* The following is the inscription on a metallic plate deposited in the foundation
stone :
Broomielaw Bridge, Glasgow.
The foundation-stone of a bridge across the Clyde at Jamaica Street, was laid on 29th
September 1 768 ; and to afford more suitable accommodation, such as the increas-
ing population and trade of the city and adjacent districts required, it was re-
moved, and
By the favour of Almighty God, the Hon. James Ewing, LL. D. F. R. S.
Lord Provost, and one of the Representatives in Parliament for the city,
Laid the foundation-stone of this Bridge
On the third day of September
Anno Domini M.DCCC.XXXIII.
Mra of masonry 5833,
In the fourth year of the reign of our most Gracious Sovereign William IV.,
Assisted by the Grand Lodge of Scotland and thirty-two provincial lodges, and by
James Cleland, Esq. LL. D. Grand Director of the masonic ceremonial, in presence
of the public bodies of the city, and neighbouring districts.
Thomas Telford, Esq. F. R. S. L. and E. Architect for the Bridge ; Charles Ather-
ton, Esq., resident engineer ; Messrs John Gibb and Son, contractors.
Which undertaking may the Supreme Architect of the Universe bless and prosper.
GLASGOW. 221
menced operations in 1809, the Glasgow Union Banking Company
in 1830, and the Western Bank in 1832. These banks, with the
exception of the Arms, Merchants, Thomson's, and Watson's,
still continue to do business in Glasgow. There are also in Glas-
gow a branch of the British Linen chartered bank, and fourteen
branches from provincial banks.
Provident Bank. — A provident or savings bank was opened in
Glasgow on the 3d of July 1815, wherein deposits of Is. and up-
wards are received, bearing interest at the rate of two and a-half
per cent., when the sum amounts to 12s. 8d., and has lain one month
in the bank. The following is a statement of the concerns of the
bank for 1834. It is open every day for deposits, and twice a-week
for payments.
Amount of open accounts at the end of the year, - L. 39,861 4 0
Received from depositors, exclusive of interest allowed during the year, 30,767 3 7
Repaid to depositors, including interest, during ditto, - 30,462 11 0
Interest allowed to depositors during ditto, 96411 10
From the commencement of the bank on 3d July 1815, to the end
of the year 1834, number of accounts opened, 24,039 0 0
Amount of interest paid to depositors from commencement of the
bank, to the end of year 1834, - - 10,66218 0
At the end of the year 1834, open accounts under L. 5, — 1380.
It is very gratifying to know, that, during nineteen years, the
working-classes in Glasgow have so managed their savings, as to
entitle them to L. 10,662, 18s. interest, which, but for this insti-
tution, might have been laid out for purposes quite unavailing in
the hour of need. The country generally, and the industrious classes
particularly, lie under deep obligations to the Rev. Dr Duncan of
Ruthwell, the founder of the provident bank scheme.
Post-Office. — The arrangements of this office are not surpassed,
if indeed equalled, by any out of London. In 1806, when Mr
Bannatyne was appointed post-master, the establishment consisted
of a post-master, 3 clerks, a stamper, and 6 letter-carriers ; and
there were 4 penny post-offices attached to it for the delivery and
receipt of letters in the neighbouring district. Receiving-houses
in the town for letters to be taken to the post-office had been tried,
and had been given up on finding that they were not used. There
were two deliveries of letters made daily to every part of the town
and suburbs. The Glasgow establishment in 1835 consists of a
post-master, 10 clerks, 2 stampers, a superintendent of letter-car-
riers, and 19 letter-carriers; and there are 26 penny post-offices,
and 9 sub-offices attached to it, for the correspondence of the sur-
rounding district. It has 12 receiving-houses distributed in the
different parts of the town, the letters put into which are carried
222 LANARKSHIRE.
to the post-office, to be made up in the separate lines of mails, as
they are successively dispatched. There are four complete de-
liveries of letters now made daily to every part of the town and
suburbs ; and an answer may be received the same day to a penny
post letter put into the office, or a receiving -house, in time to be
sent out with either of the two first deliveries.
Post-Office revenue of Glasgow at the following dates.
In 1781, . L. 4,341 49 In 1830, . L. 34,978 9 Oi
1810, . 27,598 6 0 1831, . 35,642 19 5
1815, . 34,784 16 0 1832, . 36,053 0 0
1820, . 31,533 2 3 1833, . 36,481 0 0
1825, . 34,190 1 7 1834, . 37,483 3 44
Quarter ending 5th April 1834, - L. 9189 6 10
5th July, 9227 19 5
5th October, 9365 J5 2£
5th January 1835, - 9700 1 11
Gross revenue for the year, L. 37483 3 4^
The number of penny post letters for Glasgow delivery, exclu-
sively of those delivered through the 26 out-penny offices, was,
from October 1833 to October 1834, 192,491; and the amount
of the revenue derived from them, L. 802, Os. lid. When it is con-
sidered, that, in 1833, the revenue was only L. 1700 more than in
1815, whilst the population had increased in the same period up-
wards of 72,000, and the increase of correspondence in a still greater
ratio, we are led to believe that the revenue is greatly defrauded
by private carrying.
Rental and Stamps. — The rental of the city and suburbs in 1834
was L. 539,466. Amount of stamps sold in 1828, L. 91,213; in
1830, L.103,802; in 1834, L.1 10,930.
Water Companies. — Prior to 1804, the city was scantily supplied
by twenty-nine public, and a few private wells. In 1806, the Glas-
gow Water Company was incorporated, and in 1808 the Cranston
Hill Company. From their commencement, till 31st May 1830,
the companies had laid out L. 320,244, 10s. Id. on their works,
which are now considerably extended. In 1831 there were 38,237
renters of water in the city and suburbs. Rates for 1834: Houses
rented under L. 4, 5s. per annum ; ditto L. 4 and under L. 5, 6s. ;
L. 5 and not above L. 6, 7s. 6d. ; all above L. 6, 6£ per cent., or
Is. 3d. per pound on rental. Public works ; high service, i. e. in the
more elevated parts of the city, L. 12, 10s. for 1000 gallons per
day ; low service L. 6, ditto ; workmen for drinking, 6d. per head ;
founderies Is. per man ; lowest charge for a public work, L. 4.
Counting-houses, 5s. to 10s. 6d. ; water-closets in ditto, 5s. to
10s. 6d. ; horses, 4s.; cows, 3s.
GLASGOW. 223
Amount of Butcher-Meat, Bread and Milk, consumed in Glas-
gow.— As the office of Parliamentary Hide Inspector has lately been
abolished, the amount of butcher-meat consumed in Glasgow can-
not be ascertained with accuracy; we have therefore taken the
amount for 1822, from Dr Cleland's folio Statistical Work, when
the population was 147,043.
Bullocks, 14,566. Average 28 stones tron,* 407,848,
at 7s. L. 142,746 16 0
Calves, 8,557, Do. do. at 36s. 15,402 12 0
Sheep, 57,520, Do. do. 20s. 57,520 0 0
Lambs,1 68,637, Do. do. 6s. 20,591 2 0
Swine, 6,539, Do. do. 20s. 6,539 0 0
L. 242,799 10 0
Tallow, hides and offals, particulars detailed, 61,179 4 5
Total value of carcases, tallow, hides, &c. L. 303,978 14 5
Bread In 1822, there were 64,853 sacks of flour baked in the
city and suburbs, equal to 5,317,996 quartern loaves, which at
8d.is - 177,266 10 8
Milk In 1822, there were 1230 cows, each cow through the
year supposed to produce on an average 6 Scotch pints of milk
daily, equal to 2,693,700 pints of 105 cubic inches, in the year,
at 6d. per pint, is - 67,342 10 0
L. 548,587 15 1
For increased consumpt from 1822 to 1835, suppose 15 per cent. 82,288 3 3
Supposed value of butcher-meat, bread and milk in 1835, L. 630,875 18 4
Public Green. — There is probably no town of equal extent in
the empire which can boast of such a park as the Green of Glas-
gow, whether we consider its extent, its use to the inhabitants in
its walks, its wells, and its trees, or its picturesque effect on the
bank of a beautiful river. The sheep park at the bottom, and the
ride and drive of two and a-half miles, give an air of grandeur to
the whole. The Green contains 136 imperial acres, and there is
grass growing on it now, where grass never grew before. The pre-
sent state of this splendid park forms a great contrast with what it
was before its improvements were intrusted to Dr Cleland. Twen-
ty years ago, the surface of the Low Green was inundated by every
swell in the river. The Calton Green was separated from the
High Green by the. Camlachie Burn, and the High Green from
Provost's Haugh by a deep gott or ditch, from which issued nume-
rous springs, all of which are now contained in spacious tunnels.
The Calton Green and the Haugh were so much destroyed by
powerful springs, that, even with the assistance of open drains, the
Green was so soft, as frequently to prevent walking on it even in
the greatest drought, while in soft weather it was utterly impassable.
* A Glasgow tron stone contained 16 Ibs. of 224 ounces. Meat is m>w sold by the
imperial stone of 14 Ibs. of 1 6 ounces.
224 LANARKSHIRE.
The Camlachie Burn, which was formed into a dam for moving ma-
chinery to raise water from the river for the use of the washing-
house then opposite to Charlotte Street, being frequently stagnant
in the summer months, became very offensive. At that period the
only entries to the Green from the west were by crooked lanes from
the Salt Market Street and the slaughter-house. At the bottom
of the Green, now the site of the public offices, the corporation of
skinners had a triple range of tan-pits supplied by filthy water from
the Molendinar Burn, which ran open in the middle of a narrow
street, and the slaughter-house was placed immediately to the west
of the tan-pits on the bank of the river, now East Clyde Street.
The dung of the slaughter-house, and the intestines of slaughter-
ed animals were collected in heaps, and allowed to remain for
months, long after putrefaction had taken place. A glue- work and
a manufactory of therm from the intestines of animals recently
slaughtered ; and rees fitted up for the retail of coals and culm,—
completed the nuisance. The bank of the river, east from the
Stockwell Street Bridge was used by the police as a receptacle for
the filth of the streets.
Coal in the Green. — Unsuccessful attempts having been made
from time to time to find coal in the lands belonging to the cor-
poration, Dr Cleland procured permission to make the experiment
of boring in the green. He began by erecting a temporary building,
into which none were admitted but two operatives and occasionally
a mining engineer. The operation of boring commenced on 18th
December 1821, and ended on 17th September 1822, — the chis-
el during that period having gone through various strata to the
depth of 366 feet 1 inch, including various seams of coal. A re-
gular daily journal of these operations he embodied in a report, ac-
companied with folio engraved plans and sections exhibiting the
extent of the coal field, and the thickness of seven seams found in
the bore, viz. mossdale, rough ell, rough main, humph, splint ell,
splint main, and sour-milk, containing in whole about 1,500,000
tons; so that if the output was restricted to 15,000 tons annually, the
coal field in the Glasgow Green would last 100 years. Although
Dr Cleland has shown, and eminent mining engineers have subse-
quently certified, that the corporation of Glasgow7 is possessed of
this valuable property, we have no desire in the present state of the
funds, to see the beautiful green cut up even with a single coal-pit.
It appears from the Rev. Mr Bowers' account of Old Monkland
in the former Statistical Account of Scotland, that, in 1792, Mr
GLASGOW. 225
Hamilton erected the first steam engine in Scotland at Barrachine
for drawing up coals from a pit. Mr Dixon's " Fire- Work" coal
pit takes its name from its being the first of the Glasgow pits where
coal was drawn up by fire or steam. *
That the citizens of Glasgow have ever been loyal, patriotic,
and generous, may be collected from the foregoing brief account
of the city. When the country was suffering under civil war they
raised an armed force in defence of their civil and religious liber-
ties, and when menaced by the enemies of their country, they stood
nobly forward in its defence. In times of local distress their liber-
ality knows no bounds, and their support of religious and benevo-
lent institutions has never been surpassed in any community. That
the citizens of Glasgow have done honour to departed worth, re-
ference is made to the statues and monuments erected in their city,
and that their gratitude is not confined to the dead will be shewn
from the following splendid acts :
Mr James Dennistoun, of Golf hill, one of his Majesty's Deputy-
Lieutenants for the county of Lanark, manager and principal part-
ner of the Glasgow Banking Company, retired from business in
1829. On that occasion a number of the principal inhabitants of
the city and neighbourhood, taking into consideration the high
character which Mr Dennistoun bore in the community, and the
estimation in which he was held by all classes, resolved to request
his acceptance of a public dinner as a mark of their esteem and
regard. Mr Dennistoun having accepted the profered compli-
ment, the dinner was given in the great hall of the Royal Ex-
change Buildings on 2d December 1829. The Honourable Alex-
ander Garden of Croy, Lord Provost in the Chair, Samuel Hun-
ter, Esquire, Croupier, and thirty-six gentlemen of the first re-
spectability acted as Stewards. Long before the chair was taken
upwards of FOUR HUNDRED gentlemen had taken their places, f
* It is a curious fact, which we believe is not generally known, that, previous to
the year 1775, all colliers and other persons employed in coal works in Scotland,
were, by the common law of the land, in a state of slavery. They and their wives
and children, if they had assisted for a certain period at a coal work, became the pro-
perty of the coal master, and were transferable with the coal work, in the same man-
ner as the slaves on a West Indian estate were till lately held to be property, and
transferred on a sale of the estate. Besides the law founded on the usage of the
country and decisions of the courts, sundry Scotch statutes were enacted for regulat-
ing this description of slavery.
f At six o'clock the Lord Provost entered the hall, accompanied by Mr Dennis-
toun, Sir John Maxwell of Polloc, Bart., Mr Campbell of Blythswood, M. P., Mr
226 LANARKSHIRE.
The company, which was most respectable, was composed of all
political parties. As the festival was given in honour of the pri-
vate virtues of a most excellent man, politics were excluded. The
object in view, the respectability of the company, the talent dis-
played in the speeches, and the sumptuousness of the entertain-
ment, were never surpassed in this city.*
A number of the inhabitants of Glasgow, " taking into their con-
sideration that Dr Cleland, who had recently retired from pub-
lic life, had discharged the arduous duties of an important office
for upwards of twenty years, with honour to himself and great be-
nefit to the community," called a public meeting, which was held
on the 7th August 1834, when it was unanimously resolved that
some mark of public approbation should be given to him. Ac-
cordingly, the magnificent sum of L. 4603, 6s. was subscribed in
a few weeks by 285 individuals of all grades of society, from his
Grace the chief of the Scottish nobility to the industrious artisan.
The committee of subscribers are now erecting an ornamental build-
ing in Buchanan Street, which is to be handed down as an heir-
loom in the family of him on whom they have conferred the dis-
tinguished and unprecedented honour. The building is designated
" THE CLELAND TESTIMONIAL."
Maxwell, Younger of Polloc, M. P., Mr Robinson, Sheriff of the county, Mr Mon-
teith of Carstairs, Mr Finlay of Castletoward, Mr Ewing of Levenside, Mr Camp-
bell of Ballimore, Mr Dalglish, preceptor of Hutchison's Hospital, the Very Reve-
rend Principal Macfarlan, the Reverend Professor Macgill, the Reverend Professor
Chalmers, Mr Dennistoun of Dennistoun, Mr Fergus of Strathorn, Mr Stirling of
Kenmure, Mr Houldsworth of Cranstonhill, Mr Buchanan of Dowanhill, Mr Smith
of Carbeth-Guthrie, Mr Dunn of Duntocher, Mr Alston of Auchinraich, Mr Mac-
farlan of Kirkton, Mr Kincaid of Kincaid, &c. &c.
* The speech of the Lord Provost, in proposing the toast of the day, was distin-
guished for fine feeling and graceful delivery, and the writer cannot resist the oppor-
tunity to add the following part of it. After some introductory remarks his Lord-
ship said, " We are assembled this evening to pay a tribute to the excellence of the
character of the guest on my right, and certainly I hazard nothing when I say, that
never was tribute more rightly deserved, or more sincerely offered, for the manifes-
tation of our admiration of such genuine worth is alike due to him, and honourable
to ourselves. Johnson said of Burke, that no one could by chance take shelter with
him in a shed to shun a shower, without perceiving that he was a great man. Now
it may be said of Mr Dennistoun with truth, that no one could meet him, however
trivial the occasion, without perceiving that he was a good man. But I am well aware,
Gentlemen, that you all know the estimable qualities for which our friend is so much
beloved ; that you all know his warmth of heart, his social kindness, his unassuming,
but manly manner, his liberality in business, and his generosity in friendship : and I
feel most confident, that I speak not only the sentiments of every one present, but of
every one who has the good fortune to know Mr Dennistoun, when I assert, that, if
ever a man possessed the full and undivided esteem and respect of society during a
long period of active usefulness, it was Mr Dennistoun, and if ever a man carried
with him to the great enjoyments of domestic life, the affectionate good wishes of all,
it was Mr Dennistoun j and, Gentlemen, I shall only add, because it is to the honour
of humanity, that I do believe Mr Dennistoun is without an enemy."
GLASGOW. 227
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Abstract view of the State of Society in Glasgow at various periods.
From 1500 to 1550. — Prior to this time the inhabitants of this
city and neighbourhood were governed by churchmen, who kept
them in such a state of ignorance and superstition as was truly de-
plorable. Towards the end of this period the principles of the
glorious Reformation began to be acknowledged, when it pleased
God to raise up powerful agents in Edinburgh and Glasgow in the
persons of Knox and Melville.
.From 1550 to 1600. — During this period the Reformation took
place. The great body of the people, however, still retained their
fierce and sanguinary disposition. This is strikingly marked in their
being constantly armed. Even their ministers were accoutred in the
pulpit. The number of murders, cases of incest, and other crimi-
nal acts which were turned over to the censures of the church, but
too plainly point out the depraved character of the people.
From 1600 to 1650. — The distinguishing character of the
people during this division of time is marked by a certain malignity
of disposition. Their belief in and treatment of witches, second-
sight, &c. afford strong symptoms of superstition grounded on ig-
norance ; and the profanation of the Sabbath, by working and riot-
ing on that day, displays gross profanity.
From 1650 to 1700. — During the beginning of this period and
the end of the former, the people, who had become more civiliz-
ed, and paid more attention to moral and religious duties, were
dreadfully harassed and persecuted by an intolerant government,
who seemed determined to enforce a form of religion which was
inimical to the people. The abdication of James II., and with him
the exclusion of the Stuart family, brought about the happy Revolu-
tion, which put an end to the religious troubles.
The union with England, which took place soon after this period,
opened up a spirit for trade hitherto unknown in this city, and
the increase of population is truly astonishing. In 1774, at the
induction of the Rev. Dr Burns, the Barony parish did not con-
tain 8000 souls, — its population now amounts to 85,385. This
venerable and justly respected minister, (who it is believed is now
the father of the Church of Scotland,) has exercised the ministerial
functions in the Barony parish for a period of sixty-five years, viz.
four years as assistant to Mr Laurence Hill, and sixty-one as the mi-
nister of i\\Q largest parish in Scotland. Dr Burns has served a cure
for a longer period than has fallen to the lot of any Presbyterian or
228 LANARKSHIRE.
Episcopalian clergyman in this city since the Reformation in 1560,
and there has been no Roman Catholic bishop or archbishop since
the renovation of the see in 1129, who held his office for such a
length of time. This is a proof of good health and a sound con-
stitution. But, what is of more importance to his parishioners, he
unites evangelical principles with the meekness of a true Christian.
His popularity, which increased through a prolonged life, was that
which arises from a faithful discharge of duty. About two years
ago (then in his ninetieth year) he retired from the more active
duties of his station. In 1829 the Crown appointed Dr Black to
be his assistant and successor, — an appointment which gave entire
satisfaction to the minister and the parishioners.
66 At the commencement of the eighteenth century, and during the
greater part of the first half of it, the habits and style of living of
the citizens of Glasgow were of a moderate and frugal cast. The
dwelling-houses of the highest class of citizens in general contain-
ed only one public room, a dining room, and even that was used only
when they had company, — the family at other times usually eating
in a bed-room. The great-grandfathers and great-grandmothers
of many of the present luxurious aristocracy of Glasgow, and who
were themselves descendants of a preceding line of burgher patri-
cians, lived in this simple manner. They had occasionally their
relations dining with them, and gave them a few plain dishes, put
on the table at once, holding in derision the attention, which they
said, their neighbours, the English, bestowed on what they ate.
After dinner the husband went to his place of business, and, in
the evening, to a club in a public-house, where, with little expense,
he enjoyed himself till nine o'clock, at which hour the party uni-
formly broke up, and the husbands went home to their families.
" The wife gave tea at home in her own bed-room, receiving there
the visits of her " cummers," (female acquaintances,) and a great
deal of intercourse of this kind was kept up, the gentlemen seldom
making their appearance at these parties. This meal was term-
ed the "four hours" Families occasionally supped with one an-
other, and the form of the invitation, and which was used to a late
period, will give some idea of the unpretending nature of these re-
pasts. The party asked was invited to eat an egg with the enter-
tainer, and when it was wished to say that such a one was not of
their society, the expression used was,xthat he had never cracked
a hen's heg in their house. This race of burghers living in this
manner had, from time to time, connected themselves with the
GLASGOW. 231
individuals, or even companies trading extensively on their own
capital were to be found.
" The first adventure which went from Glasgow to Virginia, after
the trade had been opened to the Scotch by the union, was sent
out under the sole charge of the captain of the vessel, acting also
as supercargo. This person, although a shrewd man, knew nothing
of accounts ; and when he was asked by his employers, on his re-
turn for a statement of how the adventure had turned out, told
them he could give them none, but there were its proceeds, and
threw down upon the table a large * hoggar' (stocking) stuffed
to the top with coin. The adventure had been a profitable one ;
and the company conceived that if an uneducated, untrained per-
son had been so successful, their gains would have been still great-
er had a person versed in accounts been sent out with it. Under
this impression, they immediately dispatched a second adventure,
with a supercargo, highly recommended for a knowledge of accounts,
who produced to them on his return a beautifully made out state-
ment of his transactions, but no fi hoggar.'
" The Virginia trade continued for a considerable time to be car-
ried on by companies formed as has been described. One of the
partners acted as manager ; the others did not interfere. The
transactions consisted in purchasing goods for the shipments made
twice a-year, and making sales of the tobacco which they re-
ceived in return. The goods were bought upon twelvemonths
credit, and when a shipment came to be paid off, the manager sent
notice to the different furnishers, to meet him on such a day, at
such a wine-shop, with their accounts discharged. They then re-
ceived the payment of their accounts, and along with it a glass
of wine each, for which they paid. This curious mode of paying
off these shipments was contrived with a view to furnish aid to
some well born young woman whose parents had fallen into bad
circumstances, and whom it was customary to place in one of those
shops, in the same way that, at an after period, such a person
would have been put into a milliner's shop. These wine-shops
were opposite to the Tontine Exchange, and no business was tran-
sacted but in one of them." *
" We are indebted to the Scrap-Book of Mr Dugald Bannatyne for the above part of
this abstract included in inverted commas. There are few individuals in any town who
have been so very generally useful as Mr Bannatyne. For more than half a century he
has devoted a great proportion of his valuable time and talents in promoting the mer-
cantile and manufacturing interests of this city, and his long and friendly intimacy with
his near relative DUGALD STEWART gave him a taste for literature which has greatly be-
nefited his country. When the Chamber of Commerce and Manufactures in this city
232 LANARKSHIRE.
Prior to the breaking out of the American war, the " Virginians,"
who were looked up to as the Glasgow aristocracy, had a privileged
walk at the Cross, which they trod in long scarlet cloaks and bushy
wigs ; and such was the state of society, that, when any of the most
respectable master tradesmen of the city had occasion to speak to
a tobacco lord, he required to walk on the other side of the street
till he was fortunate enough to meet his eye, for it would have beeri
presumption to have made up to him. Such was the practice of
the Cunninghams, the Spiers, the Glassfords, the Dunmores, and
others ; and from this servility the Langs, the Ferries, the Clay-
tons, and others who were at the head of their professions, and had
done much to improve the mechanical trade of the city, were not ex-
empt. About this period, profane swearing among the higher classes
of citizens was considered a gentlemanly qualification; and dissipa-
tion at entertainments was dignified with the appellation of hospi-
tality and friendship ; and he who did not send his guests from his
house in a state of intoxication was considered unfit to entertain
genteel company. Latterly, the rising generation of the middle
class, better educated than their fathers, engaged extensively in
trade and commerce ; and by honourable dealing and correct con-
duct, procured a name and a place in society which had been hi-
therto reserved for the higher grades. Since the opening of the
public coffee-room in 1781, the absurd distinction of rank in a ma-
nufacturing town has disappeared. Wealth is not now the crite-
rion of respect, for persons even in the inferior walks of life, who
conduct themselves with propriety, have a higher place assigned
them in society than at any former period of the history of the city.
Families, as has been already said, who were formerly content to
live in the flat of a house in the Old, have now princely self-contained
houses in the New Town. Entertainments are now given more fre-
quently, and the mode of giving them is materially changed. Persons
who formerly gave supper parties and a bowl of punch, are now in the
way of giving sumptuous dinners, entertaining with the choicest wines,
and finishing with cold punch, for which Glasgow is so celebrated.
The value of the table-service, and the style of furniture in the
houses of many of the Glasgow merchants, are inferior to none in
the land. In drinking there is a mighty improvement : formerly,
was instituted in 1783, under the auspices of Mr Patrick Colquhoun, at that time Lord
Provost, and a public-spirited and distinguished merchant in Glasgow, Mr Bannatyne
rendered his assistance, and has held the office of secretary ever since Mr Gilbert Ha-
milton's death in 1809. The original members of the chamber are now all dead, with
the exception of its able and much respected secretary.
GLASGOW. 233
the guests had to drink in quantity and quality as presented by
their hosts ; now every person drinks what he pleases, and how he
pleases, — after which he retires to the drawing-room, and drunken-
ness and dissipation at dinner parties are happily unknown. Pro-
fane swearing is considered highly reprehensible ; so much so that
swearing in good society is never heard. The working-classes are
better lodged, clothed, and fed, than formerly ; and since the for-
mation of the Water Companies, they are more cleanly in their
houses, and healthy in their persons.
With the exception of Hutchison's Hospital, the Town's Hos-
pital, the incorporations, and a few societies, our numerous chari-
table and benevolent institutions, and the whole of our religous in-
stitutions, have been got up during the last forty years. Since
1791, when the former Statistical Account of Scotland made its
appearance, the Bible and Missionary Societies, and the City and
Parochial Missions, have been called into existence. These and
similar institutions bid fair for improving the morals of the most
worthless of our population. The inhabitants of this city are justly
characterized as charitable and humane ; and on all proper occa-
sions the feeling of compassion and of active benevolence is never
wanting. Though this be the general, it is, however, by no means
the universal character of the population, for there are many per-
sons among us who live as if they existed only for themselves, and
desired to know nothing but what may be conducive to their own
private advantage. Persons who are placed in circumstances above
the labouring artisan may be classed into three divisons.
The first in order, but last in respect, are those who, though
wealthy, or at least in easy circumstances, lend a deaf ear to the
tale of woe, and neither contribute their time nor their means to
the relief of the wretched.
The second are those who give none of their time to the public,
and whose charities are in a manner extorted through the influence
of respectable applicants or the force of public opinion. Than
this class, who may be considered the drones of society, there are
none more ready to find fault with the administrators of the ge-
neral concerns of the city, and none more anxious to grasp at that
patronage which so justly belongs to thos'e who give so much of
their valuable time to the community without fee or reward.
The third class are those who voluntarily contribute their time
and money to the service of the community in the various depart-
ments of usefulness. Through the providence of God, this class
234 LANARKSHIRE.
of late years has greatly increased in number, respectability of cha-
racter, and worldly estate, which, when taken in connection with
other circumstances, have tended greatly to the increase of reli-
gion, morality, and active benevolence. The spirit which actuates
the benevolence of Glasgow is ever present in times of difficulty.
The knowledge of this important fact should tend greatly to pre-
vent discontent in the minds of the indigent, and mitigate their
sufferings in times of distress.
Since the commencement of the present century, Glasgow has
greatly increased in scientific knowledge, and many of her citizens
have rendered essential service to their country.
The fourth meeting of the British Association for the Advance-
ment of Science, held in Edinburgh from the 8th to the 15th Sep-
tember 1834, consisted of a number of persons, from all countries,
many of them the most distinguished in Europe for scientific ac-
quirements. While a considerable number of the citizens of Glas-
gow were admitted members of the Association, the following were
elected office-bearers, viz. Secretary to the Chemistry and Mi-
neralogy Section, Thomas Thomson, M. D., F. R. S., Professor
of Chemistry in the University of Glasgow. — Members of Commit-
tee, Charles Macintosh, F. R. S. and Charles Tennant, M. H. S. S.
— Member of Committee in the Natural History Section, Wil-
liam Jackson Hooker, LL. D., F. R. S., Professor of Botany in
the University of Glasgow. — Secretary to the Statistical Section,
James Cleland, LL. D.
The following very valuable paper, drawn up by Principal Mac-
farlan, came too late to be inserted in its proper place in this article :
and though a very small part of it has been anticipated, our readers
may be gratified to receive it entire.
" The origin ,of the name Glasgow is like that of most other
places, involved in uncertainty, and it would be useless to repeat
the fantastic conjectures of antiquarians and etymologists, with re-
gard to its meaning. Perhaps the most probable conjecture is that
which derives it from the level green on the banks of the river,
for many ages its greatest ornament. Glas-dchadh in Gaelic, pro-
nounced Glassaugh, or with a slight vocal sound at the termina-
tion Glassaughii) signifies the green field, or alluvial plain, and is
strictly descriptive of the spot in question. The name of the town,
as ordinarily pronounced by Highlanders, corresponds closely to
3
GLASGOW. 235
this derivation. In ancient British, Glasgow has the same mean-
ing, and it is applied to other places, having a similar locality in
other parts of Scotland.
" The origin of this city is lost in the obscurity of the middle ages.
At the Roman invasion, the part of Scotland in which it lies was
inhabited by a British tribe called by that invading people the
Damnii, and was mostly included within their province of Valentia.
On the retirement of the Romans, the provincials were left to their
own resources, and their previous peaceful habits changed into a
state of constant warfare in defence of their territories against, first,
the inroads of the Northern Caledonians or Picts, then the inva-
sion of the encroaching Saxons from the east, and latterly the as-
saults of the martial Scots, who, emigrating from Ireland, settled
in the districts now called Argyleshire and Galloway. With all
these invaders they maintained a precarious conflict during a pe-
riod of four centuries. From the researches of modern historians
it appears highly probable that Alpine, the last King of the Scots,
as a separate people, lost his life in combat with Strathclyde Bri-
tons, near Dalmellington in Ayrshire, and not, as more generally re-
ported, contending for the Pictish crown in the eastermost district
of Scotland. About the middle of the sixth century, Kentigern,
or, as his name appears in the ancient Welsh narratives, Cyndeyrn
Garthys, makes a figure in their history as a distinguished eccle-
siastic. He is associated as archbishop with the celebrated Ar-
thur, then Sovereign Prince. His Episcopal seat is said by the
same authority to have been established at Penrynrioneth, which
was also the seat of the monarchy, and seems to have occupied
nearly the present site of Dumbarton. Kentigern, from his pious,
benevolent, and amiable character, seems to have acquired the ap-
pellation of Mungo, used in several languages as an epithet of
fondness and endearment. The conduct of Marken, the successor
of Arthur, in insulting and banishing the Saint, was believed to
be avenged by his premature death. The surname of Bountiful,
bestowed on the next Prince Ryderick or Roderick, seems to have
been acquired by his favour to Kentigern, to recall whom from ba-
nishment was one of the first acts of his government. It has been
reported by tradition, that the space now occupied by Glasgow had
been previously covered by an extensive forest, within the recesses
of which were celebrated the religious rites of the Druids. It is
well known that the first teachers of Christianity generally esta-
blished their churches on the spots which had, in the estimation of
236 LANARKSHIRE.
the people, been previously hallowed by the habitual performance of
their devotions. It is probable that Kentigern, following this prin-
ciple, founded his church here on the vestiges of the Druidical
circle. This took place, as is commonly reported, about the year
560, and he died in 601, leaving the infant town which had begun
to spring up under the shadow of that stately church, the founda-
tion of which he is said to have laid, and where at his death he was
interred, under his paternal benediction. According to Spottis-
wood, he was the pupil of St Sevirinus Bishop of Orkney, was dis-
tinguished by the strict performance of all that were considered
pious and meritorious exercises, and lived to a very great age. Af-
ter his death, his memory appears to have been held in high vene-
ration, and in many parts of Scotland there were religious houses
which, as well as his own extensive see, claimed the patronage of his
name and the benefit of his prayers. This account of the origin
of Glasgow, drawn from unvarying tradition, and confirmed by no-
tices scattered in contemporary chronicles, derives additional con-
firmation from the armorial bearings of the see. These are de-
scribed in Edmonstone's Heraldry, as follows: Argent a tree, grow-
ing out of a mountain base, surmounted by a salmon in fesse, all
proper ; in the salmon's mouth an amulet, or ; on the dexter side,
a bell pendent to the tree, of the second. Discarding the monkish
fables respecting the origin of each separate part of this cognizance,
we may conclude with little danger of mistake, that the tree refer-
red to the ancient forest which surrounded the cathedral, the bell
to the cathedral itself, the ring to the Episcopal office, and the fish
to the scaly treasures poured by the beautiful river below at the
feet of the venerated metropolitan.
" During 500 years the history of Glasgow presents an entire
blank; but the existence and the importance of the see during
that period, is demonstrated by the inquisition made in 1115,
by David then Prince of Cumberland, and afterwards King of
Scotland, into the lands and tithes previously belonging to the
church of Glasgow. These appear from that document to have
been of great number and extent, embracing a multitude of
parishes in the southern and western districts of Scotland. This
fact sufficiently shows that, during the period in which no tra-
ces of its history can be found, the cathedral not only existed
but was largely endowed. It may, however, have suffered many
vicissitudes and even occasional demolition amidst the disasters of
the kingdom of Strathclyde, the bloody contests of the Scottish
GLASGOW. 237
princes, and the fearful devastations of the north-men. In the
beginning of the twelfth century, when the connection of the Scot-
tish sovereigns with the Saxon and Norman kings of England
gave stability to their authority and comparative tranquillity to their
dominions, the church was revived, and the Episcopate reinstated.
John Achaius, originally chaplain to David I., and afterwards High
Chancellor of the kingdom, was consecrated Bishop at Rome in
1115, and the restored revenue was speedily employed by him in
restoring the dilapidated fabric of the cathedral. His labours to
this end are said to have been completed, and the renovated pile
to have been consecrated in 1 133. It is not certain whether that
edifice had been, as was generally the case, erected at first on a
partial and limited scale, or whether it was in one of the succeed-
ing reigns, as is inferred from a charter for its reconstruction, de-
stroyed by fire, but it is clear that the greater and by far the more
splendid part of the fabric that still exists was built under the di-
rection of Joceline, who became bishop in 1174, and that the choir
was consecrated by him in 1197. During the same reign, (that of
William I. or the Lion,) a charter was granted, erecting Glasgow
into a royal burgh, in favour of the pious and holy Saints Kentigernus
and Jocelineus and their successors. And for many ages this burgh
existed under the auspices of the successive bishops. Innumerable
circumstances, indeed, mark its ecclesiastical origin. Bishop Turn-
bull, in 1451, founded the still existing university; and the growing
importance of the town was obviously owing to the assemblage of
ecclesiastics, many of them of great power and opulence, around
the archiepiscopal residence. To this rank the see was elevated
during the episcopacy of Bishop Blackadder, near the end of the
fifteenth century. Bishop Cameron in 1435 enjoined his prebends,
thirty-two in number, to erect houses for themselves in the vicinity
of the cathedral, and always to reside there. As the city extend-
ed, religious houses were multiplied. A collegiate church, to
which the original name of St Mary's has been lately restored, was
founded in the Trongate, and governed by a provost and eight pre-
bends. A convent of Black Friars was established on the east,
and one of Gray Friars on the west side of the High Street. The
church of the former, rebuilt in 1699, still exists as one of the city
churches, and their grounds are believed to have formed the ori-
ginal part of the college gardens. Many chapels crowded the city
and the suburbs, the names of most of which are now forgotten,
and their revenues have disappeared. The University, as has been
238 LANARKSHIRE.
already mentioned, was founded by Bishop Turnbull under the
authority of a bull issued by Pope Nicholas V. dated 7th January
1451. It formed a corporate body, consisting of a Chancellor, Rec-
tor, and Dean, with Doctors, Masters, Regents, and students in the
several faculties into which it was divided. One of these was known
as the psedegogium, or College of Arts. In 1459, James Lord
Hamilton bequeathed to the principal regent of that College some
buildings and several acres of land, on part of which the presenf
College was afterwards erected. The College of Arts was restored
and endowed by King James VI., in 1577, and its property has since
been augmented from various sources. It is governed by the meet-
ing of Faculty, or College meeting, consisting of the Principal
and the Professors who originally belonged to, or have since been
received into its body. This meeting exercises the administration
of the whole revenue and property of the College, the patronage
of eight professorships, and the presentation of the parish of Govan.
They also administer discipline, either as a body, or through a
part of their number called the Jurisdictio Ordinaria, amongst the
College students. The University is governed by the Senate, con-
sisting of the Rector, the Dean, and all the Professors, whether
belonging to the College or not. Meetings of this body are held
for the election and admission of the Chancellor and Dean of Fa-
culty; for the admission of the Vice- Chancellor and Vice- Rector;
for electing a Representative to the General Assembly ; for regu-
lating and conferring degrees ; for the management of the libraries ;
and for all other business belonging to the University. In the
Comitia, where, besides the members of senate, all matriculated
students have a place, the Rector is elected and admitted to his
office, public disputations are heard, inaugural discourses are de-
livered, the laws of the University are promulgated, and prizes for
merit distributed annually."
ADDENDA.
A Jews synagogue was opened in this city in September 1823.
Mr Moses Lisneihm is their priest, Hebrew teacher, killer, inspec-
tor, marker, and sealer. It appears from a report of a Select
Committee of the House of Commons in 1828, that in London the
office of priest and killer merges in the same person, and that no
Jew can use meat unless the animals are slain with a peculiar knife,
and marked with Hebrew seals. The Feast of Tabernacles, which
used to be celebrated by the Glasgow Jews in Edinburgh, is now
observed in this city.
GLASGOW. 239
Edward Davies, son of Mr Edward Davies, optician, was the
first that was circumcised in Glasgow. The rite was performed by
Mr Michael on 18th July 1824. The Jews resident in Glasgow
in 1831 were 47 in number, viz. males, 28, females, 19. Above
twenty years of age, 28; below ditto, 19 ; born in the following
countries, viz. in Prussian Poland, 11; in various parts of Ger-
many, 12; in Holland, 3; in London, 5; in Sheerness, 10; in
Glasgow, 6. The increase since 1831 is but trifling.
A burial ground has been made for the seed of Abraham at the
north-west corner of the Necropolis. It is separated from the
Christians' burying-ground by an ornamental screen, on which are
inscribed the beautiful and appropriate words from Byron's Hebrew
Melody, beginning, " Oh ! we'ep for those that wept by Babel's
stream."
The community are greatly indebted to Mr James E wing, LL.D.
one of the Members of Parliament for the city, for having project-
ed the Necropolis, and to Mr Laurence Hill, LL. B. collector to
the Merchants' House, for his unwearied exertions in promoting
the interests of this beautiful and romantic cemetery.
Tides in the Clyde. — The following is taken from the valuable
Tide Tables prepared by the late Dr Heron, Professor of Natural
Philosophy in Anderson's University. The tide at Greenock is
two hours earlier than at Glasgow. At places situated near the
ocean, the tide flows nearly as long as it ebbs. At Greenock it
generally flows rather above six hours — but at Glasgow it flows
only for five hours, and ebbs about seven ; this, however, is modifi-
ed by the winds.
The tide produced by the moon is nearly three times greater
than that occasioned by the sun, and the former thus predominat-
ing, the interval between the consecutive combined tides is found
almost to coincide with the moon's progress in her periodic course.
This interval, however, is modified by the distance of the lumi-
naries from the earth, their declinations, and other incidental cir-
cumstances.
At new and full moon, the influence of the sun and moon unit-
ed produces the elevation which is called spring tide. From these
periods, the tides gradually decrease, until the moon arrives at the
quadratures, when the high water is only the difference between
the lunar and solar tides, and is termed the neap tide. The tides
now increase daily, till the following spring tide, when the sequence
already noticed recurs. Spring tides, however, do not happen on
240 LANARKSHIRE.
the days of full and change, nor neap tides on the day that the
moon enters the quarters, but about two days after.
The tide-wave rolling northward from the Atlantic Ocean, on its
arrival at the British isles, divides into three branches ; one pro-
ceeds up the English channel ; another enters St George's chan-
nel, south ; the third flows round the west and north coast of Ire-
land, and meets the second branch near the Isle of Man.
The tide that flows up the Clyde is derived from the two lat-
ter branches ; and it is easy to conceive how it must partake of the
irregularities produced on them by the action of high winds, and
hence the anomalies that sometimes are observed, when no appa-
rent cause is operating on the Clyde itself. Likewise high winds
in the Clyde affect the time and elevation of high water ; . and by
considering the form and course of the Frith, it is obvious that a
gale from a northerly quarter, by opposing the flow of the tide,
will cause the time of high water to be earlier, and the height of
the tide to be less than otherwise would be the case, while a gale
from an opposite direction, acting in concert with the flowing tide
will produce a contrary effect.
Iron Steam-Boat. — Since the part of the article relating to
steam-boats went to press, a launch of rather a novel nature
has taken place at the Broomielaw Harbour. Messrs Tod and
M'Gregor, engineers, constructed a steam-boat, every part of
which is of iron excepting the boards of the deck ; and having
all her machinery and equipments complete, and her steam up,
they placed her on a carriage in their works, from which she
was taken on 16th July 1835 to the large crane at the harbour,
and being lowered into the river, she immediately proceeded on a
trial trip, when she went against a head wind at the rate of eight
miles an hoar. This pretty little vessel, named the Plata, is 45
feet long from stem to stern, 9 feet on the beam, and 17 feet over
the paddle boxes. She draws 22 inches water, and her whole
weight is eleven tons when her boilers are filled. She is propelled
by two high pressure engines, each of five horse-power — the cylin-
ders are 6 \ inches diameter placed horizontally — the stroke 2 feet
4 inches. She is kept in motion for five hours with 5 cwt. of coals,
and has accommodation for twelve cabin, and twenty-five deck pas-
sengers. This vessel, built for river navigation in foreign parts, is
the property of Mr Robert Jamieson, of the firm of Messrs
Jamieson, M'Crackan, and Company. She is to be taken to her
destination on the deck of one of the company's ships.
GLASGOW. 241
Old and New Style. — The dates narrated in this account of the
city prior to 1751 are in the old style, and those which follow that
period are in the new. The following explains the cause of the
change.
In the year 1751, it was found that, from the year being comput-
ed to be rather longer than it really was, it gradually encroached
upon the seasons. It was found that the spring equinox, which at
the time of the General Council of Nice in 325, happened on
or about the 21st March, in the year 1751, happened about the
9th or 10th, and that the error was still increasing, and would, if
not remedied, cause the equinoxes and solstices to fall at very
different times of the year from what they had done in time past.
An Act of Parliament in 1751 (24th Geo. II. Chap. 23,) was
therefore passed, proceeding upon the preamble of the facts now
stated, and calculated to correct the error which had crept in, and
to prevent the like happening again. Eleven days, therefore, were
struck out of the following year to rectify the error ; and to pre-
vent it happening again, the years 1800, 1900, 2100, and every
hundredth year, were declared to be common years of 365 days,
except 2000, and every four hundredth year, which were made
leap years; thus taking away about three days in four centuries.
Umbrellas. — In 1782 the late Mr John Jamieson, surgeon, re-
turning from Paris, brought an umbrella with him, which was the
first in this city. For a number of years, there were few used
here, and those were made of glazed cotton cloth. As almost every
child at school, mechanic and servant are now provided with an
umbrella, there are probably more than 100,000 of them in use in
this city.
Mode of Estimating Numbers at Field Meetings. — As very erro-
neous estimates are frequently made respecting the number of per-
sons attending field-meetings, public executions, &c. it may come
near the truth to estimate a promiscuous population standing close
together at six to a square yard ; thus a park of an imperial acre
will contain 29,040 persons, and a Scotch acre 36,624 persons.
As Scots money is frequently referred to in the foregoing article,
its value in Sterling money is taken from Dr Jamieson's Etymolo-
gical Dictionary.
Scots. Sterling. Scots. Sterling.
A doyt or penny is . L. 0 0 OJ^ A Merk or 13s. 4d. or two-
A bodle or two pennies is 00 Q/g thirds of a pound is L. 0 1 1 ^
A plack, Groat,or four pence is 0 0 03), A pound is . . 018
A shilling is . . 0 0 1 * '
July 1835.
PARISH OF
NEW MONKLAND, OR EAST MONKLAND.
PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. JAMES BEGG, D. D., MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — THE parishes of Old and New Monkland were formerly
one parish, under the general name of Monkland, — a name deriv-
ed from the monks of the Abbey of Newbottle, to whom the lands
belonged. The parish was divided into two in the year 1640, —
the eastern division being named New Monkland, and the western
Old Monkland,
Boundaries, Extent. — The parish is in the middle ward of La-
narkshire, and forms a part of the north boundary of the county.
It is nearly ten miles in length from east to west, and seven in
breadth near the middle, but narrower at both ends ; bounded on
the south by the parishes of Bothwell and Shotts; on the east
by those of Torphichen and Slamannan ; on the north by those of
Cumbernauld and Kirkintilloch ; and on the west by those of
Cadder and Old Monkland.
Soil and Climate. — The soil is various. That in the north and
west parts of the parish is the best, consisting partly of a strong clay,
and partly of a dry soil ; which soils, when properly cultivated, are
capable of bearing any kind of crops. The middle and east parts
are of a mossy soil, and, in early seasons, yield ^ ~>od crops of oats,
flax, potatoes, and rye-grass hay ; but in cold late seasons the oats
do not ripen well. There are no hills nor mountains in the pa-
rish, though the greater part of it is high. The highest lands are
in the middle of the parish, and run the whole length of it from
east to west, declining gently on each side to the rivers Calder and
Loggie, which are its south and north boundaries. These high
lands may be from five to six or seven hundred feet above the
level of the sea, and a great part of them are covered with mosses,
which in that elevated situation are not capable of improvement,
except at a very great expense.
NEW MONK LAND. 243
Owing to the elevated situation of the country, the weather is,
on the whole, rather cold and wet. For a great part of the year the
winds are from the west and south-west; but in the months of April,
May, and part of June, generally from the east. The severest wea-
ther, with heavy falls of snow, is in general from the north-east.
The common nervous fever, or typhus fever, seems to be the most
prevalent disease. It is very frequently in some part of the parish.
Consumptions, inflammations, and rheumatisms, are also frequent.
Hydrography. — The large reservoir for supplying the Monkland
Canal, and the Forth and Clyde Canal, which covers about 300
acres of land, is partly in this parish, and partly in the parish of
Shotts. There is a mineral well near Airdrie, which in former
times was much frequented, but is now neglected. The water is
strongly impregnated with iron and sulphur.
Geology. — This parish, so interesting to the student of geo-
logy, affords ample opportunities for studying the relations of
the two grand series of rocks, the Neptunian and Plutonian.
It is well supplied with whinstone or trap and sandstone. These
are found in various places, and are convenient for building
and making roads, &c. The parish also abounds with coal
and ironstone of the best quality. In many places, different
seams of coal are wrought, such as the ell coal, the pyatshaw, the
humph, the main coal, and the splint. These seams are general-
ly above the black band of ironstone, and below that there is the
Kiltongue coal, and other seants not yet sufficiently explored. In
some places the seams are thin, not exceeding two or three feet in
thickness ; in other places of the parish, as Moffat, Whiteridge, and
Ballochnie, the seams of coal are nine feet thick, of excellent qua-
lity, and very valuable. Smithy coal and blind coal are also wrought
in some parts of the parish. Many of these coals are carried to
Glasgow by the ? I-onkland Canal, and from thence many are car-
ried to the Highlands, and to Ireland. Many of them are also
carried by the Ballochnie and Kirkintilloch railways to Kirkintil-
loch, and from thence by the Forth and Clyde Canal to Edin-
burgh.
The ironstone is found partly in balls, and partly in seams ; the
seams most common are the muscle band and the black band. The
black band is by far the most valuable, and is generally found about
fourteen fathoms below the splint coal. All the iron-works of
Carron, Clyde, Calder, Gartsherrie, and Chapel Hall, are partly
supplied with ironstone from this parish.
244 LANARKSHIRE.
Limestone is also wrought in some parts of the parish, parti-
cularly on the north side of the parish, and at the west end, but
not to any very great extent, as the Cumbernauld lime is of excel-
lent quality, and generally used in this parish. Where the lands
in the parish lie in the vicinity of the canal, or railway, or good
roads, the minerals are considered of equal value, sometimes of
more value than the surface. On the south side of the parish the
metals in general dip to the south or south-west, towards the Clyde;
but on the north side of the parish they in general dip to the east
and south-east.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Land-Oivners. — The chief land-owners of the parish are, Robert
Buchanan, Esq. of Drumpellier ; John Campbell Colquhoun, Esq.
of Killermont; Robert Haldane, Esq. of Auchingray; Sir William
Alexander of Airdrie- House ; the Honourable William Elphin-
stone of Monkland ; Alexander Gerard, Esq. Rochsoles ; George
More Nisbet, Esq. Cairnhill ; Robert Jamieson, Esq. Arden ;
Thomas Falconer, Esq. Brownieside ; Dr William Clerk of Mof-
fat ; Dr James Tenant of Bredinhill ; William Steel, Esq. An-
nathill; George Waddel, Esq. Ballochnie ; James M'Lean, Esq.
of Medox. There are a great many other heritors in the parish.
Few of the largest heritors are resident.
Modern Buildings. — The chief mansion-houses are those of
Airdrie, Monkland, Rochsoles, Auchingray, &c.
A very neat town-house has been lately built in Airdrie, con-
taining a prison, police-office, and a good town-hall. The Mason-
Hall in Airdrie is also a very good room. The foundation of a very
large cotton-mill has been newly laid near Airdrie, which, when
finished, will employ a great number of people, in teasing, carding,
and spinning cotton.
III. — POPULATION.
The population of the parish has been progressively increasing
for a number of years past, both in the country part of the parish
and in the town of Airdrie. The return of the population to Dr
Webster, in the year 1755, gave 2713. The population at the
time of the last Statistical Account, in the year 1792, was 3560.
The following table exhibits the progressive increase of the popu-
lation.
In Airdrie. In country. Total.
1801, 2745 1868 4613
1811, 3474 2055 5529
1821, 4860 2502 7362
1831, 6594 3273 9867
NEW MONKLAND. 245
This progressive increase of population has been owing to the
coal-works in the parish, and the iron-works in the vicinity, having
been greatly extended, and to the weavers of cotton cloth for the
Glasgow manufacturers having greatly multiplied, — although at pre-
sent they are very ill paid, and have poor wages.
In the year 1833, there were in the parish 125 marriages. In
the same year there were 238 children born in the parish, and re-
gistered ; and 1 53 deaths, reckoning from the number of mort-
cloths used. The number of proprietors of land above L. 50 of
yearly rent is 68; there are, besides, a considerable number of
smaller proprietors.
In Airdrie, there were in 1831, 669 weavers above 20 years of
age ; 223 coal-heavers, the number of whom is now greatly in-
creased; and 160 ironstone miners, the number of whom is also
greatly increased.
Character of the People. — In the country part of the parish, the
people are in general strong and robust ; but in Airdrie many of
the weavers are feeble and small in stature. Both in town and
country, the people are in general neat and clean in their dress,
particularly on Sabbath when they go to church. The dress of the
women is perhaps finer than is suitable for their situation in life.
Many of the people are intelligent and sober, but some of them
are rather fond of litigation. Smuggling, at no great distance of
time, prevailed to a certain extent, but has now almost entirely
ceased.
There have been 52 illegitimate births in the parish during the
last three years.
IV — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — Some of the land in the north-west corner of the
parish is very good and fertile, and may bring L. 2 or L. 3 per acre
of rent yearly ; but the land from the church eastward is not so
good, being of a poorer soil, and much in want of shelter, and
may vary in yearly value from 10s. to L. 1, 10s. per acre. The
rental of the landward part of the parish is about L. 12,000, and
of Airdrie about L. 6700. If there were belts of planting running
from north to south, at regular distances, to protect from the
north-east winds in spring, the advantage would be great. The
improvement of the parish is, however, gradually advancing, and
many acres of waste land have been ploughed within these twenty
years past; but the price of agricultural labour is too high,
compared with the very low price of the produce of the land
LANARK. R
246 LANARKSHIRE.
at present, and if some change does not soon take place, agri-
culture must greatly decline, and the poor soils be entirely ne-
glected. Several ploughing matches take place in the parish
yearly, by which much emulation among the ploughmen is ex-
cited, and those who obtain a first or second prize generally after-
wards expect, and get higher wages. Much attention is paid to
improving the breed of cattle ; and the Ayrshire breed is preferred,
and generally prevails in the parish. During the late war, flax
brought a good price, and many acres, from 500 to 800, were cul-
tivated yearly ; but the price is now so low, that it will not yield a
profit to the farmer, and is therefore now little attended to.
Rate of Wages. — Common labourers at present receive 10s. or
12s. per week; but masons, carpenters, slaters, &c. receive 15s. or
18s. per week.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
The only market-town in the parish is Airdrie, one of the new
Parliamentary burghs, having all the privileges of a royal burgh,
and along with Lanark, Hamilton, Falkirk, and Linlithgow, sending
a'member to Parliament. Its population still is rapidly increasing.
The villages of Coltston, Clerkston, Greengairs, and Kiggend, are
also thriving villages. The post-office is in Airdrie, and there is a
post twice in the day.
Means of Communication. — The turnpike-roads in the parish are
the one from Edinburgh to Glasgow by Bathgate and Airdrie, which
intersects the south side of the parish, and the new road from Car-
lisle to Stirling, which intersects the whole parish from south to
north. These roads have afforded a very great facility to the im-
provement of the lands in their neighbourhood. The Balochney
rail-road, which is in this parish, connects itself with the Kirkin-
tilloch rail-road, and the Garnkirk rail-road, for carrying coals to
Glasgow, and the Forth and Clyde Canal at Kirkintilloch, from
whence they are carried by the canal east to Edinburgh, and west
to Greenock and Ireland, — the canal joining the Clyde near Old
Kilpatrick.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated about two miles
from the west end of the parish, on an eminence, and is seen at a great
distance from the west and north-west; it is far from the people
in the east end o'f the parish, some of whom attend other churches
more contiguous. The church contains 1200 sittings, and was built
in the year 1777, and much repaired in 1817, and is at present in
tolerable condition. One-fourth part of the sittings belongs to
NEW MONKLAND. 247
the people of Airdrie, which is situated about a mile and a-half
or two miles from the church. The manse was repaired and en-
larged in the year 1819, and is now in a comfortable state. The
glebe contains ten Scotch acres of land, but it is of inferior soil. The
stipend is 17 chalders, half meal, half barley, paid according to the
fiars of the county, besides L. 10 for communion elements. There
is a chapel of ease at-Airdrie connected with the Established Church,
which contains about 650 sittings. The minister's stipend is L.120,
raised from the seat-rents. There is another chapel built in Air-
drie, fitted to accommodate 1200 sitters. There is also a small
chapel at the village of Clerkston, occupied by a preacher of the
Established Church, who preaches on Sabbath, and visits and
examines the people in the village and vicinity through the week.
The parish church, and these chapels, are in general well attend-
ed. The average number of communicants in the parish church is
between 1000 and 1100: and those of the Airdrie chapel are about
400 more.
There are four Dissenting or Seceding meeting-houses in the
parish, two of which belong to the United Secession, one to the
Old Light Burghers, and one to the Old Dissenters or Cameron -
ians. Some of these meeting-houses are considerably loaded with
debt, and some of the ministers are but poorly provided for.
Education. — The parish schoolmaster has a dwelling-house and
garden, and about L.30 of yearly salary; his emoluments from
school fees may amount to L. 30 per annum : and for collecting
road-money, &c. he may have other L. 30. Besides the parish
school, there are four other schools in the parish, built by sub-
scription, viz. at Airdrie, Clerkston, Greengairs, and Coathill. At
Clerkston and Greengairs there are also dwelling-houses built for
the schoolmasters, but none of these have any salary. There are
also eight other schools in the parish taught by private teachers, who
depend entirely on their own exertions. In the parish school there
are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, mensuration,
Latin, and Greek ; but in all the other schools, reading, writing, and
arithmetic only are taught. The general rate of wages is 3s. per
quarter for reading, and higher for the other branches of education.
There are about 800 scholars generally attending all the different
schools. Besides these week-day schools, there are three Sabbath
schools, — so that there are very few but may be able to read if they
choose to attend to the means of improvement within their reach.
Library, fyc. — In Airdrie there is a circulating library, and also
248 LANARKSHIRE,
a public reading-room, where the newspapers of the day, and various
tracts and pamphlets are exhibited. .r ,
There is an Orphan society, supported by donations, subscrip-
tions, and collections at the churches and meeting-houses occa-
sionally, for clothing and educating orphans and other destitute
children.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor on the roll
is about 190 on an average, and the sum distributed monthly is
between L, 50 and L. 60 Sterling, in sums to each individual of
from 2s. to 10s. according to the circumstances. The money is
raised by collections at the parish church and chapel of Airdrie,
from mortcloth dues, proclamation of marriages, and assessments
to make up the deficiency. The assessments may amount on an
average to L. 467. The Dissenters give no part of the collections
at their meeting-houses to the poors funds of the parish, although
their poor are supplied from these funds equally with others.
Among the agricultural part of the population, there is a great
aversion to come on the poors funds ; they consider it degrading ;
but that spirit is almost extinct among the manufacturing and mining
population.
Prison. — In Airdrie there is a prison consisting of five cells or
small apartments, which are dry, and in good order, and well' se-
cured ; and in which riotous and disorderly people are confined,
as a punishment for their criminal conduct.
Fairs. — There are two fairs yearly in Airdrie for the sale of
cattle ; one of them is held in the end of May, the other about the
middle of November; there is also a weekly market every Tuesday.
The number of inns and alehouses is by far too great.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Since the time of the former Statistical Account, the population
and trade of the parish have greatly increased, and much of the
land is better cultivated. Besides the toll-road and rail-road for-
merly mentioned, the statute labour roads of the parish have been
greatly extended and improved. The quantity of dung now rais-
ed in Airdrie is considerable, — which, with the Cumbernauld lime,
and improved roads, affords the means of improving the land. Still,
however, in the east and north-east parts of the parish, there is a
great want of planting, and much of the land is very bare and
naked, and far from being fertile. If summer fallowing were prac-
tised, it would also be a great improvement ; but it is difficult to
persuade farmers to deviate from the practice of their fathers.
HAMILTON. 249
The frequent associations and combinations which prevail here,
and are connected with similar combinations in different parts of
the country, to raise the price of labour, are very hurtful. They
interrupt trade, and attempt what is impracticable, as the price of
all labour must be regulated by the demand. They keep trades'
people in a constant state of agitation, and make them spend much
of their time and money in attending their frequent meetings. These
combinations prevail most among the colliers, and the weavers.
The great number of inns, alehouses, and spirit -shops that abound
in Airdrie, and other parts of the parish, affords great temptations
to idleness, and dissipation, which involve many families in po-
verty and misery. Licenses on these houses should be greatly in-
creased, so as greatly to reduce their number.
July 1835.
PARISH OF HAMILTON.
PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. WILLIAM MEEK, D. D.)
THE REV. WILLIAM BUCHAN, /
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — THE ancient name of this parish was Cadzow, com-
monly pronounced Cawgo or Caygae, the etymology of which is
uncertain. From " Acts of Parliament published by command of
his Majesty," we learn, that the name of this parish was changed
from Cadzow to Hamilton, by virtue of a charter granted by James
Second of Scotland, to James first Lord Hamilton, dated 3d July
1445. In the above carta erectionis we have the following words,
" Et manerium dicti Jacobi, (i. e. of Lord Hamilton,) quod nunc
le Orcharde nominator, jacen. in baronia de Caidzhow, erit in futu-
rum principale capitale messuagium omnium baroniarum, superi-
oritatis, et terrarum prenominatarum, cum pertinen. totius dominii
predicti, et Hamilton vocabitur et intitulabitur ;" from whence it
appears that the manerium or manor-house of the Hamiltons, si-
* This Account was drawn up by the Reverend William Patrick, author of a
" Popular Description of the Indigenous Plants of Lanarkshire," &c.
250 LANARKSHIRE.
tuated near where the palace now stands, was formerly called the
Orchard.
Boundaries, Extent, fyc. — The parish of Hamilton is situated in
the middleward of the county of Lanark, (of which the town of Ha-
milton is the capital) between 55° 48' and 55° 43' 18" north latitude.
From Maidenlee in the south to Bothwell Bridge in the north, it
is six miles in length ; and from Rottenburn, where it meets with
the parish of Blantyre on the west, to the bank of the Clyde op-
posite Carbarns, where it comes into contact with the parish of
Dalserf, on the east, the distance is exactly the same across. The
Clyde forms the north and north-east boundaries for about five
miles, separating it from the parishes of Bothwell, Dalzel, and
Cambusnethan. On meeting with Dalserf, at the above point op-
posite Carbarns, the boundary line takes a south-west direction,
cutting off one house in the north-west end of the village of Lark-
hall, crossing the Carlisle road about a furlong and a-half above
the fourteenth milestone from Glasgow; and reaching the Avon
opposite Fairholm, it runs along the banks of that water to Mill-
heugh Bridge. After this, the parish of Stonehouse forms the
south-east boundary for a mile and a-half. Between the farms
of Langfaugh and Craigthorn hill, the parish of Glasford coming
in, forms the south and south-west boundaries, as far as Rotten-
burn. From this point to Bothwell Bridge, the parish of Blan-
tyre forms the western boundary. Thus we have Bothwell on the
north, Dalzel, Cambusnethan, Dalserf, and Stonehouse on the
east, Glasford on the south and south-west, and Blantyre on the
west. The figure of the parish is an irregular polygon. It con-
tains 22.25 square miles, or 14,240 standard imperial acres.
Topographical Appearances. — Linnaeus remarks, that the ocean
is the mother of the land ; and it may be said with equal truth,
that the Clyde is the mother of the lower lands of Clydesdale.
This noble river, rising in the higher regions of Crawford, traver-
ses a whinstone or trap district till near the falls above Lanark.
Here the rocks suddenly change from crystalline trap to sand-
stone and shale. Through these softer materials the river seems
to have forced a way. From a mild and placid stream, gently
meandering through verdant meadows, and wide expanding pas-
tures, it becomes all at once a turbid, unruly, boisterous torrent,
deeply engulfed in gloomy defiles of perpendicular rocks, or rush-
ing headlong over lofty precipices. Below the falls, the banks be-
gin to expand, and at their bases fertile haughs or holms are form-
HAMILTON. 251
ed. About eight or ten miles below Stonebyres, the last fall on
the Clyde, the banks of the river, receding to a more than usual
distance, leave a great extent of plain or level ground. These
low and fertile haughs, chiefly on the v/est bank of the Clyde, with
the gently sloping ridge behind, constitute the parish of Hamil-
ton. There are a few hundred acres on the east of the Clyde,
which ought of right to belong to the parish of Dalzel.
Meteorology. — As a general rule, it is observable, that every
300 feet of altitude make a difference of about one degree in tem-
perature. Thus when the barometer is 29.5 in the lower grounds,
near the town of Hamilton, it is 29.007 on the higher ridge in the
west ; which ought to give an elevation of about 500 feet. The
town of Hamilton is upwards of 80 feet above the level of the sea,
— thus we have an elevation of 580 feet. Many neighbouring
ridges are much higher ; probably 750 or 800 feet. In these up-
per regions the temperature is generally one or two degrees lower
than in the more sheltered vales in the Clyde, and the harvest is
from a week to a month later. But besides the differences indi-
cated by the thermometer and barometer, there are also very vari-
ous hygrometrical results. After long-continued droughts, the
columns of air being denser and of greater altitude in the vales
than on the heights, buoy up the clouds, till attracted by the lof-
tier ridges on the east and west, their cohesion is dissolved, and
their contents precipitated. In this way the haughs and lower
grounds on the Clyde are often parched with drought, while the
heights on every side are saturated with rain. The qualities of
air contributing to these results, also tend to promote exhalation
in the lower grounds, and to relieve the soil and atmosphere from
the superabundant moisture, so inimical to vegetation in the high-
er parts of the parish. From rain-gages kept here, and in a
neighbouring parish, it appears that the average quantity of rain
for five years was 20.003 inches. The average number of dry
and wet days in each month has also been ascertained from tables
kept for that purpose for ten years. The result is as follows :
Dry. Wet. Dry. Wet. Dry. Wet. Dry. Wet-
Nov. 23 7 Feb. 23 5 May, 24 7 Aug. 24 7
Dec. 24 7 Mar. 26 5 June, 23 7 Sept. 22 8
Jan. 25 6 Apr. 22 8 July, 21 10 Oct. 24 7
72 20 71 18 68 24 70 22
Total days, — 84 wet, and 281 dry.
The above is only an average, from which there are wide devia-
tions. In 1826, there was scarcely a drop of rain during March and
252 LANARKSHIRE.
April, and the three summer months ; while in July 1828, rain
fell on the 1st, 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 12th, 13th, 14th,
18th, 20th, 21st, 24th, 26th, 28th, 29th; and in August on the
3d, 4th, 5th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 13th, 14th, 20th, 21st, 22d, 24th. It
thundered on the 5th, 8th, 12th. In September there were eight
rainy days, and in October six. It generally thunders about the
third Sunday of July, — a fact observable from neighbouring sacra-
ments, happening on that day, seldom passing without electrical
explosions.
The wind, on an average of years, is 230 days in the west;
namely, about 55 days west, 55 north-west, and 120 south-west.
It is 110 days in the east, namely, 25 east, 50 north-east, and 35
south-east. It is seldom more than 25 days in the north and
south.
Registers of the thermometer and barometer, kept here for three
years by Dr King, R. N. vary so little from those kept at Glas-
gow, and published in the Glasgow Medical Journal, that it is un-
necessary to give them a place. The barometer on an average
ranges between 30.53 and 28.73. The thermometer is seldom
above 75 in July, or below 15 in January. In the hottest days, in
a small room facing the north, it fluctuates between 65 and 70. In
mean monthly temperature, January is the lowest, namely, from 35
to 38, and July the highest, from 58 to 60. February and No-
vember are from 40 to 42 ; but November is the warmer of the
two. The same analogy holds between March and October, the
average heat being 45 to 47 ; but October is warmer than March.
April is seldom so warm as September, nor is May so warm as
August. The greatest heats and the heaviest rains are after the
longest day.
From the above remarks, the reader will be enabled to form a
tolerably accurate idea of the climate. The air is in general re-
puted healthful ; and the splendid scenery around affords abundant
scope for pleasant and exhilarating excursions. Fogs are not fre-
quent, and rains less so than at some other places a few miles dis-
tant. Colds, consumption, fevers of different kinds, particularly
a slow nervous fever, to be afterwards described, fluxes, and inflam-
mation, in different forms, at times prevail here, as in other places
around. Gravel and other calculous complaints are on the decline ;
but inflammations, palsy, and apoplexy, are supposed to be on the
increase, — probably from what is termed the improved mode of
living, and the more liberal use of ardent spirits and other stimu-
HAMILTON. 253
lating liquors. Small -pox, which, in the year 1787, carried off se-
venty-five children in this parish, was for many years almost un-
known. Of late it has reappeared, but in a less fatal form. Among
the list of new diseases, we may mention dysentery, which was
little known here till the spring of 1818. It appeared in that year
in the months of March and April, and in the end of June, and
in July, August, and September. Thermometer, in the first pe-
riod, greatest height 67; least height 29. The last days of March,
and the first six of April, were foggy and calm ; from the 8th to
the 1 2th snow and rain fell ; from that to the end of the month,
windy, with a few calm days. Wind, N. E. and E. A year or two
after, this disease made its appearance among the cavalry in the
barracks, and as their surgeon had never seen it before, he very
prudently called in medical assistance from the town. It raged
fearfully for some time ; but the terror it excited has of late almost
entirely given place to that of its more formidable successor, cholera.
From July to November 1832, sixty-three individuals, mostly fe-
males, and many of them in the poorest circumstances, fell victims
to this new and appalling scourge. The hospital near the barracks,
and other incidental expenses, cost the parish upwards of L. 600.
It has not since appeared in this place. The slow nervous or re-
mittent fever, above alluded to, is a variety of the gastric fever of
some authors, and is by many of our ablest physicians considered
as being, perhaps, peculiar to Hamilton. It seems to have its
source in the irritation of the digestive organs.*
Frosts of long continuance are now of rare occurrence. The
most remarkable were in the winters of 1708, 1715, 1739, (called
the hard frost,) 1742, 1754, 1776, 1788, 1796, and 1813. The
heaviest snows of late have been in March and April, — as in 1820
and 1827. In 1809, a heavy fall of snow, on the 31st of May,
and again on the 5th of June, did great damage in the orchards
and woodlands, by breaking down the branches of the trees then
in full verdure. On the 5th February 1831, several persons in
this neighbourhood were lost in the snow.
Hydrography. — The river Clyde and the other waters in the
district are occasionally subject to great inundations. In 738,
* The symptoms, according to an amiable and much lamented individual, the late
Dr John Hume of Hamilton, are, '« Headach often very severe ; pain in the back and
loins, and sometimes in the chest ; sometimes delirium, but transient ; never stupor, ex-
cept immediately before death ; variable pulse, but in general quick ; frequent cough ;
heat and dryness of skin, alternating with chilliness, nausea, vomiting of bilious
matters, pain in the epigastrium and bowels generally, want of appetite, white
tongue, either pure or mixed with red points, generally costiveness, and turbid urine.
254 LANARKSHIRE.
a flood destroyed 400 families. Grey, in his Chronicle, mentions
another great spate on 25th and 26th November 1454, which
brought down " hale housis, barnis, and millis," and obliged the
inhabitants of Garion, near Dalserf, to take to their house-tops.
To escape such catastrophes, the principal part of the Netherton
stood on a high ground which the Clyde never inundated; and it
was probably the fright which the above-mentioned flood occasion-
ed that caused Lord Hamilton, the year following, to remove the
Collegiate Church to the place where Hamilton Palace now stands.
On the 12th of March 1782, the flood was nearly two feet higher
than was ever remembered before ; and the river rose about sixteen
feet perpendicular above the ordinary level of low water. It over-
flowed a great tract of country, and appeared like an arm of the sea.
The date of this flood, and the height of the water, are recorded
on Hamilton Bridge. In the autumn of 1807, another great spate
carried off a vast quantity of grain, then standing in the stook, and
swept away the two centre arches of Hamilton Bridge. On the
9th February 1831, on the melting of the snow, the Clyde rose
at Blantyre Mills to the height of twelve feet nine inches above its
usual level ; and at Hamilton Bridge it was within six inches of the
flood-mark of 1782.
Besides the Clyde, the course of which has already been de-
scribed, the parish is traversed by the Avon, (an old British word
which signifies the " water,") and nine smaller streamlets or burns,
six of which fall into the Avon, and three into the Clyde. All of
these have their origin in the high grounds in the west and south-
west of the parish. By time and perseverance (like their mightier
chief the Clyde,) they have forced their way through great chasms
in the sandstone rocks, forming magnificent heughs or ravines of
great magnitude, infinitely varied, and richly wooded. These con-
stitute part of the " beauties of Scotland," of which a stranger pas-
sing along the highway knows and sees but little. The Avon rises
on the west, near the boundary line between the parish of Strath-
avon and the county of Ayr. After running for many miles through
a pastoral country, and the better cultivated tracts of Avondale and
Stonehouse, it enters the parish of Hamilton, at Millheugh Bridge.
About half a mile onwards, it is at length engulfed in a stupen-
dous and rocky defile, equal in grandeur, variety, and picturesque
effect, to the finest scenery of the kind in Britain. It bears no in-
considerable resemblance to the celebrated banks at Roslin, near
Edinburgh, but is finer, and on a more majestic scale. In many
l
HAMILTON. 255
places the rocks tower up to the height of 250 or 300 feet, and are
frequently crowned with stately oaks of great antiquity, and of sin-
gular and romantic forms. These noble banks are everywhere
densely covered with hard-wood of numerous sorts, and of various
tints ; and at their summits on the west, Hamilton wood stretches
far beyond. Near the centre of this gloomy chasm, the ruins of
Cadzow Castle appear " like centinel of fairy land," on the summit
of a lofty rock, nearly 200 feet above the bed of the Avon. On
the opposite side of the river, on the east, the modern chateau or
banqueting-house known by the name of Chatelherault, or Wham,
arises with its red walls, its four square towers all in a line, its
gaudy pinnacles, its globular and circular ornaments, and its beautiful
flower garden. It was built after the model of the Citadel at Cha-
telherault in Poitou, about 1732. Near the northern extremity of
this romantic dell, and about three miles from its commencement,
the ancient terraced gardens of Barncluith, (or Baron's Cleugh,)
the property of Lord Ruthven, appear on the west bank of the Avon,
remarkable not only for their site and design, for their formal
walks and topiary work, but also as affording the best specimen ex-
tant of an old garden in the French style, (misnamed Dutch, in
compliment to William of Orange,) as it existed in the sixteenth
century. After this, the Avon, beginning to emancipate itself from
restraint, enters the haughs of Hamilton, and is lost in the Clyde,
at Hamilton bridge.*
Cadzow burn, which still retains the ancient name of the parish,
rises in Wackenwae well, in Glasford, and runs through the town
of Hamilton ; after which it enters the Duke of Hamilton's lower
policy, where it is arched over nearly to the point where it joins
the Clyde, at the old ford and boat-house below Hamilton Bridge.
Barncluith burn, which enters the Avon about half a mile east of
Hamilton, is remarkable for six falls, (all in Hamilton wood,) each
from 5 to 6 feet high. The banks of this burn, immediately below
the falls, seem anciently to have been of more consequence than at
present. Within half a mile of each other, we have Quhitecamp,
now Silvertonhill, Castle-hill, and Covant burn, although no traces of
a camp, castle, or convent are now to be found, nor is any history or
tradition of them preserved. The above waters are all clear pur-
ling streams, running on a fine bed of sand and gravel, or on the
bare sandstone or shale. The average breadth of the Clyde is
* This spot has given rise to a beautiful and popular song, (attributed, by mistake,
to Burns,) " Whore Avon mingles with the Clyde."
256 LANARKSHIRE.
from 80 to 100 yards. Its average velocity is from 2 to 8 or 10
miles an hour. In some places it is 10 or 12 feet deep, and at
some fords and streams it is scarcely 1. Its temperature in July,
when the thermometer was 65° in the shade, was 60°.
The springs are all from the surface, and are formed by the in-
tervention of clay and sand strata, the former holding water, and
the latter permitting its free passage. The process of filtration is
also promoted by the fissures in the metals, and the looser and more
porous materials with which they are filled up. In well-digging,
it is looked upon as a maxim, that there is no water till clay is
reached, and penetrated quite through. Many of our best wells,
however, are in the solid rock, and few of them more than 20 feet
in depth. Their average temperature in July, when the thermo-
meter was 65°, was 50°. In the beginning of November, when
the thermometer was 45, the temperature of the springs was nearly
the same as in July. Many of the wells in Hamilton hold a cal-
careous substance (the carbonate and sulphate of lime) in solution,
equal to a 1500th part of their volume. The carbonate of lime
is a substance equally innocuous as common salt, and although
the springs in which it occurs always produce a hard sort of water,
which is not fit for washing or bleaching, yet for culinary purposes
it is quite unexceptionable. There are several chalybeate springs
in the parish, but none of these are in high repute.
Geology. — In forming an accurate and comprehensive view of the
geology of this district, if we take the granite rocks of Galloway
as the base, we have superincumbent upon them, 1. the greywacke
of Leadhills and Wanlockhead ; 2. the red sandstone over which
the Clyde is precipitated at Lanark ; and 3. the coal formation of
the middle and lower wards, consisting of bituminous shale, coal,
gray limestone, gray sandstone, and clay ironstone ; thus afford-
ing a beautiful illustration of the transition and carboniferous
epochs. The sandstone rocks are, for the most part, in great
masses, repeatedly broken by horizontal and perpendicular fissures.
They vary from a few inches or feet, to 50 or 200 or 300 feet in
thickness. The strata, with few exceptions, dip in a N. E. di-
rection towards the Clyde. The dip varies from three to twelve
degrees, or from one to four feet in twenty. In many places the
dip is one in six. There is a small stratum of whin or trap in the
S. W. of the parish, which attains its greatest altitude at High-
cross- Knoll.
HAMILTON. 257
The soil superincumbent on the above strata is of various sorts.
The extensive valleys along the Clyde are of a deep fertile loam
on a sandy or loose gravelly subsoil. A remarkable tract of sandy
soil, several miles in length, and about a mile and a -half in breadth,
commences at Cunningar, runs through the farm of Merryton, and
southwards by Raploch in Dalserf, and Kittimuir in Stonehouse.
On this soil it is observed that potatoes do not in general thrive
well after the application of lime. In the middle of the parish
the subsoil is mostly a yellow clay, (the Argilla communis of Lin-
nseus.) In the upper and bleaker parts, a bluish or grayish clay
prevails, more or less impregnated with gravel and other siliceous
substances. This last is the very worst description of soil. There
is little or no peat in the parish. The surface on the whole " not
being broken by any great irregularities, the land is all arable, ex-
cept some steep banks by the sides of the river and brooks, a few
swampy meadows in the upper part of the parish, and such parts
as are covered with planting or natural wood, the extent of which
is considerable." The haughs on the Clyde are all of transport-
ed soil, and seem at some former period to have formed the bot-
toms of lakes ; for there is no haugh without its dam at the lower
part of it, by which the water was no doubt once retained. Thus,
the dam of the Hamilton haughs was a little below Bothwell Bridge;
that of the Ross, Allanton, and Merryton haughs, at the camp of
Dalzel. Dalserf, Dalpatrick, and Dalbeg haughs were dammed
up at Garion Mill ; and the haughs of Overton and Thrippet, at
Milton Bridge. At what period the waters forced a passage through
these several barriers, it is impossible now to ascertain. The bottoms
of all our rivers and burns are imbedded with gravel, consisting of
the debris of granite, basalt, quartz, and various other descriptions
of rocks. In the bed of Cadzow burn, at the flesh-market, there
are water-worn blocks of granite, and boulders of highly indurated
red sandstone of two or three feet diameter, imbedded in the solid
rock. In Barncluith burn, there are also large blocks of granite
several feet in diameter, lying upon a bed of shale. It is well-known
that there are no granite rocks nearer than forty miles and up-
wards, and the course of these burns is not more than six miles.
The question, therefore, comes to be, — whence do these strangers
come? Large water-worn masses of pure basalt are also found in the
bed of every torrent, and wherever the soil is dug into.
Coal, lime, and ironstone, are found in various places. Coal is
chiefly wrought at Quarter, about three miles south of the town of
258 LANARKSHIRE.
Hamilton. The same bed also extends a great way northwards in the
direction of Glasgow, but owing to a slip in the coal metals between
the farms of Simpsonland and Carscallan, a little to the north of
Quarter, the coal is sunk nearly 100 fathoms below its usual level ;
an accident which puts it almost beyond the reach of the inhabitants
of Hamilton, Blantyre, and part of Bothwell ; the strata not rising
up again till near Cambuslang. The existence of this remarkable
fracture is indicated by the coal metals on the banks of the Avon,
and on other burns below the place where the break occurs, all
dipping to the south-west; whereas, above that particular spot,
they, and indeed the whole strata of the district, with this single
exception, dip to the north-east. The coal strata here resemble
those throughout the county. At Quarter, the first bed worth
working is the 10 feet or woman's coal, so called because it was
once wrought by.females. This is a soft coal, which burns rapid-
ly ; and although called the 10 feet coal, is in reality from 7 to
14 feet in thickness. Fifteen fathoms lower down, the ell coal oc-
curs, so called because it was at first found of that thickness ; but
it is frequently from 4 to 6 feet thick. In the fire it cakes, or
runs into a mass, and is much esteemed by blacksmiths. Ten or
fifteen fathoms below the former, is the seam called the main-coal.
This at Quarter is 5 feet 6 inches thick, and consists of four dis-
tinct varieties of coal. 1st, The ground coal, undermost, 20
inches thick, gummy and sooty. 2d, Immediately above it the
yolk or jet coal, 6 inches thick, of a fine clear vitreous texture, like
cannel coal, affording abundance of light. 3d, Parrot coal, 10 inches.
4th, Splint coal, 30 inches. This is the coal now wrought both
by shanks and ingoing pits. The shanks at Quarter are about 30
fathoms. The mouths of the ingoing pits are on the banks of
the Avon two miles above Hamilton. These pits communicate with
each other ; and at their farthest recesses, swarms of flies are of-
ten observed. They also abound with rats and mice. Below the
main coal, the lump, hard, soft, and sour-milk seams of coal occur,
each at the depth of about 15 fathoms, the one below the other.
Between and above these, there are many smaller seams. The
whole of the seams added together will give a thickness of from
20 to 24 feet. Coal is also wrought to the south at Plotcock and
Langfaugh, but on a smaller scale. Some trifling seams have been
found at Devonhill, on the west side of the parish. The coal is
brought from Quarter by a railway along the banks of the Avon,
and is laid down at Avon bridge, half a mile from Hamilton, at 3s.
HAMILTON. 259
9d. a-ton. Here horses and donkeys are employed to cart it into
the town, at from lOd. to 15d. per ton. The donkey carts are of
great service to poor people, who get ten or twelve cwts. laid down
at from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Upwards of 10,000 tons are here sold
annually. About half that quantity is disposed of at Quarter to peo-
ple on the Strathavon and Stonehouse side of the parish. There
are various other collieries in the neighbourhood.
There are two principal beds or posts of lime, namely, a 4 feet bed
below the 6 feet coal ; and about 12 fathoms farther down, a 6 feet
bed. The 4 feet bed crops out at Crookedstone, and the 6 feet
bed at Boghead, in the south-west of the parish. This last is a
dark lime of excellent quality, and is that which is chiefly made
use of in building and agriculture. The tenantry on the Hamil-
ton estate obtain it on very liberal terms.
A seam of ironstone, about 18 inches thick, occurs below the 4
feet lime, but it has never been wrought in this parish. It crops
out at Crookedstone, and at Boghead. A similar seam, 15 fa-
thoms below the splint coal, is wrought exactly at the same eleva-
tion near Newhouse in Bothwell, on the opposite side of the Clyde.
Balls of ironstone, from the size of a pea to several inches in dia-
meter, abound in the fire-clay connected with the coal formation.
Rich seams of this valuable material are disclosed by the cutting
of the railway on the Avon.
The above strata are the depositories of many organic remains.
The following are a few of the most common and interesting.
Turbo Uriiy Paludina flumorum, Phasianella angulosa et minuta,
Seller oplwn Urn, in limestone, Terebratula affinis, and probably
many more of the same genus; Productus Martini et Lonyispi-
nus, — the under valve has a few spines like mother of pearl ; Pec-
ten papyraceus in shale ; Gryphcea minuta in a thin bed of
clay above the lime ; Nucula attenuata and gibbosa, in till on
the banks of the Avon. Small pieces of black mineralized wood
(Phytolithus trunci) are found above the lime, so hard as to strike
fire ; and yet the component parts so distinct, that the bark, the dif-
ferent years growth, and the pith, can be easily distinguished.
They seem chiefly of the pine genus. Impressions of several ge-
nera and species of ferns (Phytolitha totalis) are found in the bed
of the Avon near the coal mines. These are inclosed in pieces of
water-worn schist or blaes, which ought to be carefully broken in
order to obtain the impressions entire. The plants thus procured
are chiefly exotics. There are several petrifying springs, particu-
260 LANARKSHIRE.
larly one on a small rivulet which falls into the Avon above Cad-
zow Castle, where beautiful petrifactions othypna are found. Beds
of fuller's earth (Argitta fullonica) and potter's earth ( Argilla
leucargilla) are found in various quarters ; and in one part a very
pure yellow ochre (Argilla lutea) in considerable quantities.
Zoology. — Under this branch, as the parish is not a little
distinguished, a rather lengthened description may be allowed.
Among the quadrupeds, we may mention Maries abietum, the mer-
trick or pine-martin. It is very common here, producing its young
in the old nests of the crow and magpie, on the summits of the
loftiest trees. It is very ravenous, and is frequently caught in
stamps. The weasel, ermine and foumart, abound ; and also the
otter, badger, wild-cat, hedgehog, &c. The Ccrvus capreolus, or
roe, is an occasional visitant. Five of these were seen in a flock
in Hamilton woods last year (1833). That variety of Sorex ara-
neus which has the " upper parts dusky-gray, under yellowish
white," is occasionally observed. An individual has also a stuffed
specimen, (killed here) of what appears to be the S. quadricaudatus
of Linnaeus.
The woods here are extensive, and vocal with birds. The four
species which follow, have not hitherto obtained a place in the
Scottish Fauna. 1. Pernis apivorus, honey buzzard, shot at Cha-
telherault in the autumn of 1831. 2. Saxicola rubicola, stone-chat.
This bird has built for many years at the root of a furze bush near
Hamilton. It forms a curious road into its nest, about half a yard
in length, through the long grass. The eggs are blue, with rufous
spots at the larger end. A fine male of this species, shot a mile
from Hamilton, is in possession of Mr Kirkland, weaving agent.*
3. Curruca sylviella, lesser white-throat. This bird, supposed to
be confined to England, is common here. The nest is sometimes
in a hedge, but more frequently among long dry grass, by the side
of a wood, four or five inches from the ground, and generally over-
shadowed by a twig of bramble or some other shrub. The nest is
more compact than that of the larger white-throat, which, in addi-
tion to its numerous names, is here called " Beardy, and Blethering
Tarn." The song of the sylviella is sweeter and more perfect than
that of the common sort, and its eggs are also very different. 4.
Curruca salicaria, or sedge warbler. An individual of this species
* Since writing the above, I have seen another male of the ruUcola shot at Hes.
pielaw, in this parish. A pair had been observed flying about during the summer,
and probably had their nest there.
4
HAMILTON. 261
is now in the collection of a person named Mowat. It was killed
by a boy throwing a stone (last summer) near a marshy place on
the Clyde.
Among the rarer birds of Scotland, the following are pretty com-
mon here : Fringilla montium, twite, or heather linnet. This bird
gravely represented in some popular works on ornithology, as build-
ing in France, and as being " occasionally caught by the London
bird-catchers," is here common enough, and is well known to almost
every schoolboy. The nest is generally in a heather bush, in a
brae, or slight declivity, and is very skilfully concealed. It resem-
bles that of the common linnet, but is smaller, and is mostly lined
with wool. In autumn, especially when frost begins, they descend
in flocks to the lower grounds. Muscicapa grisola, spotted fly-
catcher : This bird, as far as can be ascertained, is in this district
confined to the vale of the Clyde at Hamilton and Bothwell. It
builds in out-houses and in wall-trees, in the most frequented
places. It is a tame and silent bird, and disappears in September.
Sylvia phaenicurus, redstart or red-tail, is exceedingly abundant.
The Certhia familiaris also occurs in the parish. The Curruca
atricapilla or black-cap is common, but here it seems to lose that
varied and melodious song for which it is famous in the south, and
on account of which it is sometimes called the mock nightingale.
The Motacilla flava^ or yellow wagtail, is here called the Seed
Lady. Motacilla boarula, or gray- wagtail, which some natu-
ralists say is " chiefly observed in winter" is most common with
us in summer, and builds among stones, and on the rocks by the
sides of rivulets. It is asserted that the siskin, Fringilla spinus,
builds here, but upon no sure authority. The goatsucker, the mis-
sel-thrush, the dipper, the yellow-wren, the crested-titmouse, the
bullfinch, goldfinch, starling, &c. are common. The missel-thrush
builds in orchards, and lines with clay beneath the small wrack, ex-
cept where the branches of the tree embrace the nest. Opposite these
there is no plaster work, the branch itself affording abundance of
shelter. A person kept a tame one in Hamilton, which sung remark-
ably well. The Alcedo ispida, or kingfisher, builds here regularly.
A large heronry may now be seen in Hamilton haughs. There
were about thirty nests this season. The heron seems to prefer the
loftiest trees for building on, especially those a little elevated above
the rest, by the nature of the ground on which they stand. These
birds are frequently attacked by the carrion-crow, on their return
from their fishing expeditions, and the prey snatched from them.
LANARK. S
262 LANARKSHIRE.
The jackdaw, although he in general prefers old ruins for his breed-
ing place, builds here abundantly in the holes of the old oaks in
Hamilton wood. In the month of May they spread themselves
over dry old pastures, where they pick up vast quantities of insects,
caterpillars, and beetles. At this season they forsake their old com-
panions the rooks; but return to them again in autumn. A nest of
the Cypselus apus, or swift, was got this summer with three young.*
The following species are often shot: Lanius excubitor, cinereous
shrike. It appears chiefly in autumn, and sometimes attacks the
call-birds of the bird-catcher in their cages. Bombycilla garrula,
wax-wing, or Bohemian chatterer. These are irregular visitants.
Three individuals were shot in 1830 with heps in their stomachs.
A vast flock of them appeared in the haughs of Hamilton in the
winter of 1782. They are regarded as birds of evil omen. Loxia
curvirostra, or cross-bill, Emberiza nivalis, or snow-bunting, Friri-
gilla montifringilla, mountain-finch, or cock of the north, and
many other winter birds are observed. No species of Picus or
woodpecker has ever been observed in this part of Scotland. In
winter many species of sea-fowl, chiefly first year's birds, are shot
on the Clyde. The erne is often observed. Yunx torquilla was
lately shot.
Of the reptile kind, the Anguis fragilis, or blind-worm, is very
common at Chatelherault. It is so brittle that it readily breaks
if let fall, or when suddenly laid hold on. Having no poison fangs
its bite is not venomous. It hides in holes in the winter, and is
sometimes seen abroad in the spring, by the beginning of March.
Some years ago a vast number of young vipers, with some old ones
of great magnitude, were turned up when digging a plot of ground
near Woodyet. These, in the true viper spirit, struck their long
barbed tongues against the spades of the workmen with great vio-
lence, and seemed very angry at being thus invaded in their an-
cient domains. This species is very venomous. Vast quantities of
frogs are sometimes found congregated in moist marshy places, many
feet below the surface. About a hogshead-full were dug up some
* About two years ago, many of the inhabitants of Hamilton were attracted to
Mr Fisher's at Claud's-burn, in the neighbourhood of the town, to see a robin red-
breast feeding a young cuckoo, which it had hatched. The little bird had been a pet
during the winter, but leaving its master, and searching out for a mate in the spring,
met with this misfortune. The toil of feeding so large a bird as the cuckoo, which
by this time was flying about the orchard, soon compelled robin to apply once more
to his former benefactor for assistance ; and it was curious to see the fond dupe come
and peck worms, and other viands, out of Mr Fisher's hand, and carry them off di-
rectly to his great insatiable pseudo- nestling.
HAMILTON. 263
years ago, near the margin of a spouty ditch, in the high parks of
Hamilton.
There are abundance of fish in the Clyde and its tributaries.
Of these, the Leuciscus rutilus, roach or braize, is the most un-
common. The other species are the salmon, trout, pike, perch,
loach, minnow, lampreys, silver eels, and small flounders. The
lampreys may be congregated in vast quantities by throwing a piece
of carrion into the water.*
That disputed species, the par or samlet of Pennant, abounds .
at particular seasons. Dr Fleming, in his History of British
Animals, observes, that this species is now " generally consi-
dered as the young of Salmo trutta, or sea-trout, or of the sal-
mon." That it is not the young of the sea-trout is certain ; for, al-
though we have myriads of pars, no such species as sea-trout was
ever found here. It may be said, they are spawned below, and come
up the water; but it does not appear how so small a fish as a par
could get over Blantyre dam, three miles below Hamilton. The
lowering of the dam at Millheugh, on the Avon, now going on,
will allow the passage of the salmon, but not of smaller fish ; and
if after this the par is found above the dam, we may conclude it
is the spawn of the salmon. Nous verrons.
The eggs of insects seem to be distributed as universally, and
with as much care, as the seeds of plants. The number of these
" little wonders" inhabiting this part of Scotland is truly astonish-
ing ; and, although some pretty good collections of them have been
made, they have not hitherto been half investigated. The follow-
ing are a few of the most interesting : Coleoptera, or beetles. 1.
Silpha quadripunctata. An insect of the above species was found
here in 1826. This is an exceedingly rare insect. 2. Rhagium
bifaciatum. 3. Leptura quadrifaciata. To these we may add the
three following species, namely, the Scarabaus melolontha, S. brun-
neus, and S. horticola. Dr Rennie mentions the Melolontha or
cockchaffer as occurring (in this end of the island) only at Sorn
in Ayrshire. It is certainly fortunate for Scotland that an insect
so very destructive in its habits is of so very rare occurrence; but
still several places in this country are occasionally subjected to its
ravages. In the summer of 1833, a great deal of grass was de-
stroyed by this insect, and many thousands^ of them were caught
at Chatelherault.
* The horse- muscle, Mytillns anatimts and M. cygneus, are plentiful in the Clyde.
They sometimes contain small pearls ; hut these are in general coarse and ill-coloured.
264 LANARKSHIRE.
Among the Hemiptera of this parish, we may now record Blatta
Americana, which has probably been brought over in raw sugar.
The cock-roach occasionally secretes itself in a pot of jam or jelly,
where it attains an enormous size, and assumes a darker and more
glossy hue ; but it loses somewhat of its activity by this over-indul-
gence of its appetites. It is brought with baggage from sea, but
soon disappears.
Of Lepidoptera, there are here many rare species. Among the
butterfly tribe we may mention, Vanessa Atalanta or red admir-
able. This species is pretty common. The caterpillar is solitary,
and feeds on the nettle. The butterfly appears in August, and, it
has been said, lives through the winter. The Vanessa lo, or pea-
cock butterfly, is more rare. The caterpillar feeds on the nettle,
and the perfect insect appears in July. The Theda quercus, or
purple hair streak, is found in May and June. The Hipparchia
mcegcera, or gate-keeper, and the H. cegeria, or speckled wood, are al-
so found. The Lyccena alsus, or small blue, is common here. The
Hesperia Tages, or dingy skipper, and Vanessa cardui, or painted
lady, may be also mentioned. Vast flights of this last species oc-
casionally occur on the continent. It is one of the few insects found
in all quarters of the globe. The following moths also occur : Sa-
turnia Pavonia minor, or emperor moth. This is an early and ele-
gant insect, appearing in April and May. The caterpillars feed on
the bramble and dog-rose. Pygcera bucephala, or buff tip moth,
is common in some seasons, and very rare in others. The Cerura
vinula, or puss moth, Acherontia atropos, death's head moth, La-
siocampa rubi, fox-egger-moth, Smerinthus populi, Zygcena JUi-
pendula, Microglossa stellularum, Plusia gamma, and many other
species occur. Biston betularis, is as if a pepper-box had been
dusted on its wings. Abraxas grossulariata is common in some sea-
sons, and in others very scarce. These keep chiefly to the lower
grounds, and in many places, only 50 feet above Hamilton, are
never met with at all. Among the fruit moths the Bradyepetes do-
labraria, is the greatest scourge of the orchard. Various species
of Hepialus, supposed to be found only in England, occur here.
The Cleophora fagana, and Phragmatobia fuliginosa are very rare
insects.
Among the Hymenoptera, we may note Ichneumon luteus, I.
manifestor, and two varieties of Chrysopa reticulata.
Botany. — As nearly all the phsenogamous plants have already been
published in a " Popular descriptio-n of the indigenous plants of La-
HAMILTON. 265
narkshire," we will only mention the three following among the rarer
species : 1. A variety of Antirrhinum repens. The stem is simple,
and has four linear leaves in whorls from top to bottom. The
whole plant is glabrous, and is found on an old wall, to the north of
Hamilton wood. 2. Cnicus eriophorus. This magnificent plant
is now common in waste ground at Woodyet. 3. Chrysocoma Li-
nosyris, or flax-leaved-goldilocks. This plant, a native of the
south, has lately appeared on the banks of the Clyde, in a very re-
mote spot, in great abundance. The roots or seeds have proba-
bly been brought down by the water.
A description of the Cryptogamice of this parish and district is now
in preparation.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Historical Notices. — In 1 153 and in 1289, the old Scottish kings
held their courts at Cadzow ; which continued to be royal pro-
perty till after the battle of Bannockburn. This district has been
occasionally the scene of important events, which, as they are well
known in Scottish history, need not be here particularly noticed.
Covenanters. — In November 1650, Cromwell sent General Lam-
bert, and Commissary General Whalley, to Hamilton, with five re-
giments of cavalry to overawe the west-country Covenanters, or to
bring them over to his own terms. They were there attacked by
Colonel Kerr, with 1500 horsemen from Ayrshire. The Cove-
nanters succeeded in securing a number of the horses; but Lambert
having rallied his forces, overtook the " spoil encumbered foe" two
miles west of Hamilton, killed Colonel Kerr and about 100 of his
troops, and took many prisoners.
On Sabbath 1st June 1679, Captain Graham, (afterwards Vis-
count Dundee,) on his way to the field of Drumclog, seized, near
Hamilton, John King, a field preacher, and seventeen other people,
whom he bound in pairs, and drove before him towards Loudon
Hill. Mr King, who was probably in disguise, is described by
Crighton as a " bra' muckle carl with a white hat, and a great bob
of ribbans on the back o't." The Covenanters, after their success
at Drumclog, deeming it unlawful to fight on the Sabbath except
in self-defence, returned to the field of action, where they offered
up thanks to the Almighty for the victory they had gained ; after
which they took some refreshment in Strathaven, and marched to
Hamilton in the evening. Next day, (June 2d,) flushed with vic-
tory, they resolved to make an attack on Glasgow. One division
of them, commanded by Mr Hamilton, attempted to penetrate by
.
266 LANARKSHIRE.
Gallowgate, and another party entered by the High Street, But
Lord Ross had so completely barricaded the streets, and made such
a resistance, that the Covenanters were soon compelled to retire,
with the loss of Walter Paterson of Carbarns, and five of their
party killed, and several wounded. After their repulse at Glasgow,
they rallied on Tollcross muir, and returned to Hamilton. The
more moderate party (June 20) drew up a paper, which afterwards
obtained the name of the " Hamilton Declaration." The purport
of it was to forbear all angry disputes and mutual recriminations
for the present, to disclaim any intention to overturn the Govern-
ment, civil or ecclesiastical, and to refer all matters of importance
to a free Parliament, and a lawfully chosen General Assembly. This
proposal was, of course, rejected by the violent party. Their guard
was attacked in the night-time at Hamilton Ford, and one of their
number (James Cleland) killed. On Saturday 21st June, the Royal
army, under the Duke of Monmouth, about 5000 strong, reached
Bothwell Muir, within two miles of the Covenanters' camp. On the
morning of Sabbath, 22d June 1672, the Covenanters, amounting
to about 4000 men, were posted between the Clyde and the town of
Hamilton, on the brow of the brae near Bothwell Bridge. Rathiliet,
Hall, and Turnbull, with three troops under their command, and
one piece of brass ordnance, guarded that important pass. The re-
sult of this most unfortunate rencounter is well known. The Co-
venanters were put to flight. They fled with great loss chiefly in
the direction of Glasford and Strathaven. Gordon of Earlston had
reached the parish of Hamilton with a party of Galloway men, when
they met their discomfited brethren at Allowshill, near Quarter,
where Gordon was met and killed. A great number of the Cove-
nanters found shelter in Hamilton woods ; and the amiable Duchess
Anne Hamilton, requesting that the soldiers might not be permit-
ted to enter her plantations, Monmouth instantly gave orders to
that effect. About 1200 men were taken prisoners on the spot.
Historical Notices. — The Hamiltons were great opposers of the
Union. In 1707, when that event took place, 500 troops assem-
bled at Hamilton to resist it by force of arms. It was expected that
7000 or 8000 would have met ; but the Duke of Hamilton disap-
proved of the measure.
In the year 1 744, a fire took place in Barrie's Close, which raged
with unabating fury for eight days. The town's-people were at
length so completely exhausted, that they were compelled to call
HAMILTON. 267
in assistance from the country. A whole street of houses was burn-
ed, and their ruins were allowed to remain for many years.
On the death of the Duke of Douglas in 1761, the house of Ha-
milton, as male representatives of the Douglasses, laid claim to the
estates, under a persuasion, that Mr Douglas, son and heir of Lady-
Jane Stewart, sister of the Duke of Douglas, was a supposititious
child, taken at Paris from the real parents. A long law-suit was
the result. It was decided in Paris, and in the Court of Session,
in favour of the Hamiltons ; but on an appeal to the House of Peers,
was ultimately decided in favour of Mr Douglas, since created Lord
Douglas.
In 1777, Douglas Duke of Hamilton, coming of age, raised in
Hamilton, for the service of the country, the 82d Regiment of Foot,
which afterwards highly distinguished itself in the American war.
On llth June 1782, the Duke of Hamilton, as Duke of Bran-
don in England, was called to take his seat in the House of Lords
as a British Peer. This paved the way to all the Scottish nobi-
lity who have since attained similar honours and privileges.
Eminent Men. — This parish has been the birth-place and occa-
sional residence of many eminent characters. The celebrated Dr
Cullen, sometimes represented as born at Lanark in 1712, ap-
pears distinctly from the session books of Hamilton to have been
born two years later in the parish of Hamilton. Dr Cullen was
magistrate of Hamilton for several years. — The celebrated Lord
Cochrane, now Earl Dundonald, spent many of his early years in
the parish. — The father of the late Professor Millar of Glasgow
was parochial clergyman here ; as was also the father of the late
Dr Baillie of London, and of his celebrated sister, Joanna Baillie.
Family of Hamilton. — The estate of Cadzow, now Hamilton,
comprises more than one-half of the parish. It had remained in
the Crown from a very remote antiquity, till 1316, when it was
bestowed on Walter Fitz Gilbert de Hamilton, by Bruce, imme-
diately after the battle of Bannockburn. It has continued in the
hands of his descendants ever since. This noble family, although
the first in the kingdom for rank, has not been above 600 years in
Scotland. The first of them is supposed to have been an English
gentleman of the line of Mellent and Leicester. In 1445, they
were ennobled by the title of Lord Hamilton. In 1474, James
first Lord Hamilton married the Princess Mary, eldest daughter
of James II. King of Scotland, and widow of Thomas Boyd, Earl
of Arran. By this connection his descendants came to be declared
268 LANARKSHIRE. «
in Parliament, on the demise of James V., in the event of the
death of Mary Queen of Scots, next heirs to the Crown, and have,
in consequence, been ever since regarded as a branch of the royal
family. They were created Dukes of Chatelherault, in France,
on carrying Queen Mary thither. They were made Dukes of Ha-
milton by Charles I. and Dukes of Brandon in England by Queen
Anne. In consequence of the marriage of Anne Duchess of Ha-
milton to Lord William Douglas, eldest son of William first Mar-
quis of Douglas by his first wife, Lady Mary Gordon, the Hamil-
ton family are now Douglasses by the male side.
Buchanan, and some of his followers, represent the Hamiltons
as dependents on the Douglasses, and as becoming great by betray-
ing them to James II., who murdered the Earl of Douglas in Stir-
ling Castle with his own hand, although he had a safeguard. It
is farther asserted, that James III. forced the wife of Boyd, Earl
of Arran, to forsake her husband, and marry Lord Hamilton.
These statements, there is reason to believe, were invidious on the
part of Buchanan, and made in order to please his patron the Earl
Murray, a great enemy of the Hamiltons. Boetius (book 12, chap.
5,) says, that the first daughter of James II. was married to Lord
Boyd, who had by her a son and a daughter; and that after the death
of Lord Boyd, this daughter of James II. was married to Lord Ha-
milton; in that way the Hamiltons are "decorit in the King's blood."
This edition of Boetius was translated by Bellenden, who, being
contemporary with the lady, is better authority than Buchanan,
who lived a century after.
Silverton Hill. — Silverton Hill, anciently Quhitecamp, the place
from whence the Hamiltons of Silverton Hill take their title, has
dwindled down to a small farm, which has repeatedly changed
owners. This family broke off from the ducal house in 1449. Sir
Frederick Hamilton of Silverton Hill, Bart, collector of the East
India Company's revenues at Benares, is the fourteenth in descent.
Earnock. — The estate of Earnock, in the west of the parish, was
for many generations the property of a family of the name of Ro-
berton, the descendants of Robert, brother of Lambin Fleming,
to whom Malcolm IV. gave these lands; part of which are now
called Kennedies, and belong to Mr Roberton. Earnock was sold
about fifty years ago to Mr Semple, and about 1810 to A. Millar,
Esq. the present proprietor.
Ross. — One-half of the lands of Ross or Inveravon were, by Robert
Loudon, brother to Alexander II., conveyed to the monks of Kel-
HAMILTON. 269
so, and the King granted a charter confirming the grant in 1222.
The half belonging to the monks was obtained by John, the brother
of Walter Fitz Gilbert, about 1339, and the other half from Da-
vid, the son of Walter. Sir William Hamilton of Preston is the
lineal representative of this family. The estate at present belongs
to Captain Robertson Aikman.
Motherwell. — The lands of Motherwell on the east of the Clyde,
now in possession of the Hamilton family, were given by Malcolm
IV. to a person of the name of Tancard, a Fleming, and his son,
Thomas Fleming, disponed them to the monks of Paisley. There
is a famous well here, dedicated formerly to the Virgin Mary, and
hence the name Mother-well.
Nielsland. — Nielsland was probably part of the territories of the
Crocs of Crocstoun, who had the lands of Nielstone in Renfrewshire.
This estate belonged, as far back as. 1549, to John Hamilton de
Nielsland. The first of this family was a younger son of Hamilton
of Raploch. In 1723, Grizel Hamilton, as sole proprietrix of Niels-
land, &c. sold these lands to Margaret Bryson, widow of Mr John
Muir, minister of Kilbride, in whose hands, and those of her heir,
it remained for a few years. It is now the property of David Mar-
shall, Esq.
Barncluith. — The estate of Barncluith belonged in ancient times
to a family of the name of Machan, and came into the possession
of a younger son of Sir Robert Hamilton of Bruntwood by marriage.
Lord Pressmennan, a Senator of the College of Justice, and many
other eminent individuals, were of this family. Of late, it became
by marriage the property of Lord Ruthven.
Allanshaw, Darngaber, Edlewood, Mirritoun, and Udstoun,
formerly seats of different branches of the Hamiltons, are now mere
farms. The Hamiltons of Fairholm, descendants of the fourth
son of Thomas Hamilton of Darngaber, are still a good family in
the south-east side of this parish.
Antiquities — Cadzow 'Castle. — The most prominent antiquity
in the parish is Cadzow Castle, already alluded to.* It stands in
Hamilton- wood, on the summit of a precipitous rock ; the base of
which is washed by the Avon. It is not known who were its found-
ers ; although it is probable that Caw or Cay was the first of
the royal race who took up their residence in this quarter. It con-
tinued in the possession of the Crown until it was granted by Robert
the Bruce to Sir Walter Fitz Gilbert. Ever since, with only two short
* David I. dates his charter to the High Church of Glasgow from Cadzow Castle.
270 LANARKSHIRE.
interruptions, it has been in the hands of his descendants. The first
of the interruptions alluded to was about the year 1581, when it fell
for a short time into the hands of Captain Stewart. The other sus-
pension (equally short in duration) was in 1654, when, by Crom-
well's act of grace and pardon, William Duke of Hamilton, de-
ceased, was excepted from all benefit thereof, and his estates for-
feited ; reserving out of them L. 400 per annum, to his Duchess
during her life, and after her death, L. 100 per annum, to each of
his four daughters, and their heirs for ever. The Castle of Cad-
zow seems to have been repaired at different periods. The keep,
with the fosse around it, a narrow bridge on the south, over the
fosse, and a well inside, are still in good preservation, and are all
of polished stone, of a reddish colour. Several vaults, and the
walls, probably, of the chapel, and other offices, are still visible.
Cadzow Castle has been celebrated in a fine ballad by Sir Wal-
ter Scott. The Castle of Darngaber (i. e. the " house between
the waters," or, as some have supposed, the " hiding place of the
goats,") in the S. E. side of the parish, is said to have been built
by Thomas de Hamilton, son of Sir John de Hamilton, Dominus
de Cadzow. Its ruins stand on a small knoll at the extremity
of a tongue of land, where two rivulets meet. The foundations
only of this ancient fortress can now be traced. They are entire-
ly of flat shingly stones, without lime, and seem never to have been
subjected to a tool. Small vaults have been discovered, which
are not arched, but drawn together as conduits sometimes are.
It is probable, therefore, that Thomas de Hamilton did not build,
but only repaired, this Castle.
The most perfect, and indeed, the only tumulus, properly speak-
ing, in this parish, is at Meikle Earnock, about two miles south of
Hamilton. It is at present about 12 feet diameter, and 8 feet
high. It was formerly much larger, and hollow at the top. When
broken into, several urns were found, containing the ashes of hu-
man bones, some of them accompanied by the tooth of a horse.
There was no inscription seen, but some of the urns, which were
all of baked earth, were plain,^and others decorated with moulding,
probably to distinguish the quality of the deceased.
In the haugh, to the north of the palace, there is an ancient
moat-hill, or seat of justice. It appears to be about 30 feet dia-
meter at the base, and about 15 or 16 feet high, and is flat at the
top. When it stood formerly in the midst of the town, it formed
part of the garden of an alehouse, and was dressed with the spade,
HAMILTON. f 271
and adorned with plants. It cannot be less than eight or nine hun-
dred years old, as no erections of the kind have been in use since
the reign of Malcolm Canmore. — Near the moat-hill is an ancient
stone cross, about 4 feet high, bearing no inscription. It is said
to have been the cross of the Netherton.
In the south side of the parish a remarkable stone, about 6 feet
high, but leaning considerably to one side, gives the name " Crook-
ed Stone" to the district. It is of freestone, and evidently very an-
cient. Mr Chalmers notices these bended stones as cromlechs, of
Druidical origin. A neighbouring farmer lately set it upright; leav-
ing posterity to wonder why it" was called " crooked stone."
Among the antiquities of this place may be recorded the
gardens at Barncluith. There are here three dwelling-houses
and three gardens, namely, an orchard, a kitchen, and flower-
garden. The flower garden is cut out of a steep bank on the
Avon, two or three hundred feet high, and is divided into five terraces.
These are flanked by terrace walls, covered with espaliers of va-
rious descriptions. The borders of the walks are crowded with a
variety of evergreens cut into fantastic forms. In the centre of the
great walk is a handsome pavilion, fitted up with rustic chairs, and
other curious pieces of furniture. Here a pair of house-martins
have constructed a nest on the skeleton of a dolphin's head, which
is nailed to the wall above the fire-place. These gardens and
buildings were probably constructed by John Hamilton of Barn-
cluith, commissary of Hamilton and Campsie, about 1583. This
individual was son of Quintin Hamilton, who was killed fighting in
the Queen's cause at the battle of Langside. Tradition says he
was deeply skilled in mathematics.
Palace. — Hamilton Palace was originally a square tower, about
20 feet long, and 16 feet wide. The old part of the house, as it
now stands, was erected about 1591 ; and it was afterwards almost
entirely rebuilt about 130 years ago. The front (now the back)
facing the south, was ornamented with pillars of the Corinthian
order ; and two deep wings were added, in the form of a Roman
H, much in'the style of Greenwich Hospital. In 1822, additions,
on an extensive scale, were begun under the present Duke by Mr
Hamilton, as architect, and Mr Connel, (builder of Burns' Monu-
ment at Ayr,) as builder, which promise to render the Palace of
Hamilton one of the larg'est and most magnificent structures of
the kind in Britain. The modern part consists of a new front,
facing the north, 264 feet 8 inches in length, and three stories
272 LANARKSHIRE.
high, with an additional wing to the west, for servants' apartments,
100 feet in length. A new corridor is carried along the back of
the old building, containing baths, &c. The front is adorned by
a noble portico, consisting of a double row of Corinthian columns,
each of one solid stone, surmounted by a lofty pediment. The
shaft of each column is upwards of 25 feet in height, and about 3
feet 3 inches diameter. These were each brought in the block
about eight miles from a quarry in Dalserf, on an immense waggon
constructed for the purpose, and drawn by thirty horses. The prin-
cipal apartments, besides the entrance hall, are, the tribune, a sort
of saloon or hall, from which many of the principal rooms enter ;
a dining-room, 7 1 by 30 ; a library and billiard-room ; state bed-
rooms, and a variety of sleeping apartments ; a kitchen-court, &c.
The gallery, 120 feet by 20, and 20 feet high, has also been tho-
roughly repaired. This, like all the principal rooms, is gilded and
highly ornamented with marble, scagliolo, and stucco-work. The
stables and offices, now erecting between the town and the Palace,
are every way worthy of the splendid edifice of which they are an
appropriate accompaniment. The palace stands close upon the
town, on the upper border of the great valley, about half a mile west
of the conflux of the Clyde and Avon. As a curious statistical
fact, we may state, that there were employed in building the addition
to the palace 28,056 tons, 8 cwts. and 3 quarters of stones, drawn
by 22,528 horses. Of lime, sand, stucco, wood, &c. 5534 tons,
6 cwt., 1 quarter, 1\ Ibs., drawn by 5196 horses. In drawing
22,350 slates, 62,200 bricks, with engine ashes, and coal-culm to
keep down the damp, 731 horses were employed. Total days dur-
ing which horses were employed for other purposes, 658J. In the
stables, there are 7976 tons of stones, drawn by 5153 horses. Of
lime, sand, slates, &c. 1361 tons, drawn by 1024 horses; besides
284 days of horses employed for other purposes. The stables,
according to plan, are only about half-finished.
Picture Gallery. — The interior equipments of Hamilton Palace
are not less tasteful or magnificent than its exterior, and are a fair
counterpart of the gorgeous pile in which they are contained. The
collection of paintings, now greatly on the increase, has been long
considered the best in Scotland. Daniel in the lion's den is a no-
ble picture, and has often been described and admired. The por-
traits of Charles I. in armour on a white horse, and of the Earl of
Denbigh in a shooting dress, standing by a tree, with the muzzle
of a gun grasped in his right hand, and the butt of it resting on
HAMILTON. 273
the ground, with a little black boy on the opposite side of the tree
pointing out the game — both by Vandyke — are also master-pieces
of art. An entombment of Christ by Poussin, an Ascension piece
by Georgione, a dying Madona by Corregio, a stag-hunt by Sney-
der, a laughing boy by L. Da Vinci, and an admirable portrait
of Napoleon by David, painted from life, by permission granted to
the present Duke of Hamilton, are all well known works of art of
great value. The east staircase contains a large altar-piece by
Girolamo dai Libri, from San Lionardo nel Monte, near Verona,
of the Castieri family, with a Madona and child placed in a chair
above them — (vide Vasari, edition 1648.) In the breakfast-room
is a picture by Giacomo da Puntormo of Joseph in Egypt receiv-
ing his father and his brothers, into which is introduced the por-
trait of Beronzino: (vide Vasari.) In the same room, by Luca Sig-
norelli, the circumcision of the infant Christ, supposed to have been
painted by Sodoma: (vide Vasari, edition 1648 :) and a portrait by
Artonelli of Mycena, said to have been the first painter in oil,
1474. This is still in a state of admirable preservation. The great
gallery and principal apartments contain also a large collection
of family portraits, and other paintings, by Vandyke, Kneller, Ru-
bens, Corregio, Guido, Rembrandt, Titian, the Carraccis, Salva-
tor Rosa, Carlo Dolce, Guercino, Georgione, Poussin, Spagno-
letti, Reynolds, Hamilton, &c. Here, if any where in Scotland, is
" An art akin to nature's self,
So mighty in its means, we stand prepared
To see the life as lively mocked, as ever
Still sleep mocked death."
A number of antique vases adorn the principal rooms, particu-
larly one in the new dining-room, of giallo-antico, in the form of
a tripod, of great beauty, and of extraordinary dimensions, being
5 feet 3 inches in height, 14 feet 3 inches in circumference, and 9^
inches deep. The vase itself is supported by a circular central pil-
lar of beautiful form/richly carved and fluted, and with three square
fluted pilasters at the sides, each resting on a lion's foot, and termi-
nating with a lion's head — the whole standing on a base of beautiful
African marble. In the breakfast-room and small drawing-room
are two slabs of porphyry upon gilt bronze legs, formerly composing
part of an altar-piece at Rome. Both slabs are of oriental por-
phyry, of equal size, and of great beauty. In an adjoining room
there is a cabinet covered with a slab of Malachite (Cuprum JEruyo,
Lin.) of the most splendent lustre imaginable. There are also a
great many antique cabinets in the different apartments, enriched
274 LANARKSHIRE.
with Mosaic and all sorts of precious stones ; particularly a casket
of ebony ornamented with gilt bronze, and oriental stones in re-
lief, formerly belonging to the Medici family. At the upper end
of the gallery is the present Duke's ambassadorial throne, brought
from his embassy at St Petersburgh, and placed between two an-
tique magnificent busts of oriental porphyry, the one of Augustus
and the other of Tiberius ; and on the walls, on each side of the
throne, are two capital portraits of George III. and Queen Char-
lotte, painted soon after their marriage. Fronting the throne, at
the other end of the gallery, is a magnificent large architectural
door of black marble, the pediment being supported by two orien-
tal columns of green porphyry, unique in their kind, and supposed
to be the finest of that material in Europe. These will afford a
faint idea of the gorgeous splendour which reigns within the walls
of Hamilton Palace. The collection of pictures may amount to
about 2000 pieces, of which about 100 are at Chatelherault. The
value of the prints alone in the Duke's possession, none of which
are ever exhibited to strangers, and many parcels of which, I be-
lieve, are not yet unfolded, are worth from L. 10,000 to L. 15,000.
It is impossible to form any idea of the value of the paintings.
Many of the cabinets are worth L. 1500; and a single table has
been estimated at L. 4000. The value of the plate, including a
magnificent gold set, is probably about L. 50,000.
Earnock House, fyc. — Earnock House is pleasantly situated on
the higher grounds, in the west, amidst abundance of plantations.
It is a modern square building, well adapted for a gentleman of mo-
derate fortune. It has very fine pleasure grounds, and an excel-
lent garden, tastefully laid out, and furnished with glass-houses
both for fruits and plants. The houses at Ross, Fairhill, and
Grovemount, are also large and handsome buildings, abounding
with whatever can contribute to convenience or comfort. There
are also respectable residences at Nielsland, Fairholm, and Edle-
wood. There is a curious fog-house at Grovemount, of great di-
mensions, tastefully conceived, and skilfully executed, which cost
a considerable sum in fitting up.
yew Prison, Sfc. — On Tuesday, 10th June 1834, the foundation
stone of the new prison and public offices was laid at Hamilton,
with masonic honours.* The offices consist of a distinct building
« The glass vessel containing the coins, newspapers, &c. having been deposited be-
neath the plinth of one of the intended columns in front of the public offices, was
dexterously dug into on the night of the 2d November 1834, and the most valuable
part of the hoarded treasure extracted. The thieves who thus bearded justice in its
own peculiar domains have not yet been detected.
HAMILTON. 275
in front of the prison, of two stories. In the west end, in the lower
flat, there are three rooms for the sheriff-clerk, with a record-
room. The town-clerk has four rooms in the east end. In the
centre, there is a court room, 37 feet long, and 32 broad. In the
upper story, there is a large hall, for county meetings, &c. 47 feet
10 inches by 32 feet, with an adjacent room, 15 feet by 12 feet
1^ inch. The prison, which stands at a little distance behind, is
three stories high. It is 80 feet 9 inches in length, and 32 feet
4 inches in breadth, comprising in all 45 cells, and 6 water-closets,
with a large day room for debtors, 19 \ feet by 13, and four other
rooms for them, each 9 feet by 7J, besides two day rooms for other
prisoners. The first flat, with 12 cells, is to be used as a Bride-
well. The second flat has 16 cells and 4 day rooms. The up-
per flat is to be appropriated to debtors. It also contains separate
apartments for females. The governor's house stands between
the public offices and the prison. In the under story, there is a
kitchen, a servants' room and bed-room, and a bath for the gaol.
There are four apartments in the upper story. The prison and
governor's house are to be surrounded with a wall 15 feet high,
inclosing a large court, half an acre in extent. These buildings
are now in a forward state. They stand on the high grounds, to
the west of the town, on the Blantyre road, near the Cavalry Bar-
racks. The old prison and court-hall at the Cross, built in the
reign of Charles I., are soon to be demolished. The present
town-hall, near the old gaol, has also been bought up. The
butcher-market, with shambles, stand on the brink of Cadzow
burn, near the middle of the town. This is a modern erection of
respectable appearance. The meal-market, in the Muir Wynd,
has long been in disuse. The public fire-engines, ladders, &c.
are kept here. There are other fire-engines belonging to the pa-
lace and barracks ; and an old ladder is pointed out, which is said
to have been used at public executions. The Cavalry Barracks
are much in the style of those at Perth and Edinburgh. Besides
stables, with accommodation above for the men, there are officers'
barracks, an hospital, and riding-room. These occupy a large
space of ground, and are surrounded by a high wall.
III. — POPULATION.
The state of the population at different times is as follows :
Years. Population. Years. Population. Years. Population.
1755, 3815 1801, 5911 1821, 7613
1791, 5017 1811, 6453 1831, 9513
The total increase, since 1755, is 5698, or about 75 per annum.
276 LANARKSHIRE.
From a census taken some months ago, and which seems to be ac-
curate, there has been an increase of 309, which may be attri-
buted to the introduction and flourishing condition of a lace-ma-
nufactory, which now employs a great many females. Out of 9822
males and females, there are in this parish :
Population.
1313 under
1247
2027
1614
1200 -
913
Age.
5
5 to 10
10 to 20
20 to 30
30 to 40
40 to 50
Population.
623
428
218
39 upwards of
9822
Age.
50 to 60
60 to 70
70 to 80
80
Population of the town, by census, 1831, 7490
in villages, - do. 500
in the country, do. 1523
The following tables of births, marriages, and deaths, are from
authentic sources. The baptisms in the parish church for the last
seven years were as follows :
Years.
1827,
1828,
1829,
1830,
Baptisms.
146
137
124
156
Marriages.
83
69
65
97
Deaths.
177
196
248
157
Years.
1831,
1832,
1833,
Baptisms.
145
162
136
Marriages.
79
75
98
Deaths.
261
267
220
The average of baptisms is 143 ; and, if to these we add 200
for the Dissenters, the whole will be 343. Considerably more
than 200 per annum are baptized in the meeting-houses of the
Dissenters ; but a large proportion of these are from neighbouring
parishes. The average of marriages is 81. The average of
deaths is 218. The number of males and females who died in
each month, between November 1832 and November 1833, is as
follows :
Months. Males. Females. Months. Males. Females.
November, 11 15 May, 10 8
December, 10 6 June, 12 10
January, 11 7 July, - 15 21
February, 9 9 August, 7 16
March, 9 8 September, 4 10
April, 10 8 October, - 19 22
60 53 67 87
The whole gives 127 males, and 140 females. This was the year
of the cholera, — a disease which carried off many individuals, par-
ticularly females. There appears in this parish to be one baptism
per annum to 27 persons, one burial to 45, and one marriage to
117 nearly. Throughout the whole of England the proportion is
33, 49, and 120 ; and in Wales, 37, 60, and 136. The advantage
is every way on the side of the above countries ; but this does not
proceed from any superiority in their climate or mode of living, but
merely from the fact, that the averages above alluded to, take in
HAMILTON. 277
town and country, whereas as regards this parish, they refer only to
a manufacturing population, a great proportion of whom are doomed
to damp shops, stooping postures, meager fare, and long hours.
The rural districts of Scotland offer very different results. The
following is the number who died monthly, between 1833 and
1834. It will be found to fall short of the corresponding year
above by 20 ; the number buried in the Relief burying-ground, are
not included in this list.
November, 14 February, 19 May, 22 August, 15
December, 14 March, 15 June, 14 September, 18
January, 19 April, 11 July, 13 October, 26
47 45 49 59
There are on an average about 10 still-born children per annum.
In the cholera year there were 14. Some people occasionally ar-
rive here at a great age ; but there are few at present above ninety.
The property of the parish is possessed by 133 heritors. Be-
sides the noble family, there are about eight gentlemen of indepen-
dent fortune. Sixteen individuals occupy land to the value of L. 50
per annum, and upwards. There are about 38 unmarried men, 50
years of age and upwards ; 150 widows, and about 100 unmarried
women, above 45. The number of families in the town is 1670 ;
and in the country, 388. The average number of children in each
family is 4^. There are 710 inhabited houses in the town, and 303
in the country. About 8 houses are now building, and none are un-
inhabited. Number of insane, fatuous, blind, deaf, dumb, 15.
Many poor persons of this class were cut off in 1833.
During the last three years there have been 110 illegitimate
births in the parish.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Families connected with agriculture, (farmers 40, labourers 95,) 135
Males employed in manufactures, (in the town, 1135, in the country, 122,) 1257
Males employed in retail trade, and handicraft, (in the town, 639, in country, 102,) 741
Merchants, bankers, and professional men, (in the town, 112, in the country, 24) 136
Labourers not agricultural, (in the town, 193, in the country, 59,) - 252
Males not included in the above classes, (in the town, 535, in the country, 131,) 666
Male-servants above 20 years, (in the town, 16, in the country, 14,) - 80
Male-servants under 20 years, (in the town, 3, in the country, 2,) - 5
Female servants, (in the town, 170, in the country, 127,) 297
Agriculture. — The surface of this parish may thus be divided.
Coarse and waste lands, - 2040 acres.
Woods, ..... 2000
Channels of rivers, sites of towns, villages, and roads, 2100
Orchards, . . - 100
Arable, 8000
14,240
The whole of this district is remarkably well-fenced and wood-
LANARK. T
278 LANARKSHIRE.
ed; and when seen from the higher grounds on the east of the Clyde,
appears like a large well-stocked orchard or garden. The coarse
and waste lands are chiefly on the outskirts of the parish, in the south
and west. The principal woods are Bar- Michael wood, (Michael's
Fort,) near Bothwell Bridge, Ross wood on the Clyde, and Hamil-
ton wood on the Avon, and Barncluith burn. Spontaneous coppices
rise every where, near the sides of the rivers and burns, and where-
ever the banks obtain a sufficient elevation, they are entirely veiled
in a mass of foliage. Forest trees of all kinds, capable of standing
the climate of Scotland, thrive, especially in the lower parts of the
parish. Some of them attain to a great age. On poor land in
high exposures, the larch, since it has been introduced, has thriven
better than any others. Next to it is the Scots fir. The silver
fir, the spruce, the Pinus balsamea or Balm of Gilead fir, the pitch
pine, and the Pinus Canadensis are also often planted. In one
place the Pinus cedrus, or cedar of Lebanon, has attained a good-
ly size. But in Hamilton wood there is little or no fir, and the hard-
wood is abundant. The " old oaks" behind Cadzow Castle cover se-
veral hundred acres, and are evidently of great antiquity.* Many of
the trees have attained an enormous size, measuring 36 feet in cir-
cumference. One near Wood House, called the " boss tree," is ca-
pable of containing at one time eight individuals of the ordinary size.
The chase in which these venerable combaters of time are now vege-
tating is browzed by about four-score white cows of the ancient Bri-
tish breed. Their bodies are milk-white, their ears, muzzles, and
hoofs black, and the shin in front, above the hoof, is mottled with
black. They are perfectly docile, except when they have calves. On
these occasions they manifest an uncommon attachment to their
young, by carefully concealing them when dropt, and defending them
when attacked. The varieties of the ox are very numerous, and may
be multiplied to almost any extent. This variety bears the greatest
resemblance in colour to the Madagascar, Tinian, and African ox.
A good many fallow deer are fed in a field on the opposite bank
of the Avon.
Orchards. — The cultivation of the orchards, although not carried
to such a length, nor perhaps so well understood as in some of the
neighbouring parishes, is still not entirely neglected. A great pro-
portion of the houses both in the town and country have gardens
* Some of these are English oaks, supposed to have been planted by King David,
•first Earl of Huntingdon, about the year 1140.
HAMILTON. 279
or orchards attached to them ; and when the fruit sold better than
at present, these sometimes brought considerable sums. Pears thrive
better than apples. Thejargonelle, when on the wall, arrives here at
great perfection. Some very large crops have been gathered of late.
Currants, gooseberries, and other small fruit are also cultivated in
large quantities, and mostly disposed of at Glasgow. The goose-
berries, however, have been greatly deteriorated of late in quality,
by the injudicious practice of introducing new sorts from England,
which is naturally not so good a climate for gooseberries as Scot-
land.
Husbandry. — The crops sown here are, wheat, oats, pease, beans,
barley, hay, some flax, and great quantities of potatoes. Wheat
is raised on all the lands on the Clyde, and also on some of the
farms in the higher part of the parish. It is either sown on fallow
or after potatoes, but seldom after oats or pease and beans. The
time of sowing is from the end of August to the 1st of November.
The quantity sown is from 7 to 12 pecks, Linlithgow measure,
per Scots acre; the produce from 8 to 16 bolls of the same mea-
sure. Oats is the principal spring corn. From two-thirds to three-
fourths of the land tilled is sown with this seed. Late seed is sown
on the lower and earlier grounds, and early seed on the higher and
later grounds. Tweeddale and Blainsley oats have long been known.
The Polish, Essex, Friesland, or great Dutch and red oats have
also been tried. But of the new sorts the potato oat is the best.
From 12 to 18 pecks, county measure, are sown on the acre; and
the produce varies from 4 to 18 bolls. Pease and beans are chiefly
raised on the lower grounds. These are, for the most part, or-
dinary horse-beans, and a kind of late gray pease, usually accom-
panying them. From 14 to 18 pecks, wheat measure, are sown
on an acre, and they sometimes yield as much as 18 bolls of the
same measure. Formerly a considerable quantity of barley of an
excellent quality was produced here, particularly in the lower parts
of the parish ; but the backward springs, and cold inconstant
summers, which began to prevail towards the end of last cen-
tury, have almost banished it from this quarter of the country. It
is now seldom sown, except for the purpose of cleaning and pre-
paring land for the reception of artificial grasses. Red, white, and
yellow clover, rye-grass, &c. are cultivated for hay and pasture,
and no person now lays down land to rest without sowing the seeds
of these plants upon it. The produce of hay is from one to three
tons per acre, besides an after-growth, which is generally pastured
280 LANARKSHIRE.
on, or cut for green food, the autumn being seldom favourable for
making it into hay. A little flax is occasionally sown for domestic
use. Rye thrives well below trees, and might be profitably intro-
duced into orchards. A great many new, or natural grasses, have
been brought into cultivation ; but it remains to be seen whether
this practice will turn out most profitable to the agriculturist or
the seedsman. Potatoes are planted from the middle of April to
the middle of May, principally in drills made by the plough. Many
families in the town take small plots of ground for the season, from
the neighbouring farmers, which they plant with this root. Large
fields of potatoes are also sold in lots to the town's people when
they are ready for digging. Upwards of twenty-four tons have
been taken from an acre. Eighty bolls were this season produced
on a single acre, about two miles from Hamilton. The rare oc-
currence of famines in the present day is chiefly to be attributed
to the abundance of this root; and yet, Cobbet, to establish a theory,
would deprive the poor of this table, which " God has prepared
for them in the presence of their enemies." The potatoes threat-
ened a failure in some places about the end of the summer. When
the diseased plants were pulled up, the seed was found to swarm
with little black worms or maggots ; but whether these animals
were the cause of the disease, or the mere attendants of that cor-
ruption by which it was followed, we are not prepared to decide.
The culture of carrot, turnips, cabbage, &c. is scarcely practised
here, except in gardens. Turnips now sell at 3d. per stone, and
carrots at 6d.
The modes of cultivation and rotation of crops are so various
that it is impossible to give any idea of the average quantity of
land applied to any particular purpose. The dairy is here an ob-
ject of considerable importance. The milk is mostly made into
butter and butter-milk of excellent quality, and sold in the town.
About 110 milk cows supply the town with sweet-milk. There
are in the parish altogether about 900 dairy cows, besides young
stock. The feeding of calves is also well understood, although
a few still send slink or unfed veal to market ; a revolting prac-
tice which, for the benefit both of seller and consumer, ought to
be put down by law. The cows here are a slight variety of the
Ayrshire breed. They are a little longer in the leg, rounder in
the body, and not quite so heavy in the hind quarters;' but hand-
somer, and equally good milkers. They are mostly red-brown,
more or less mixed with white. A moderately good milk-cow gives
HAMILTON. 281
eight Scotch pints, or sixteen quarts a day ; and many of them give
upwards of twice that quantity. During the summer months cer-
tain cows have been known to yield a pound of butter per day.
This, however, is much beyond the average produce of the dairy,
and it is perhaps near the truth when we average each cow at from
L. 4 to L. 8 of profit per annum.
Rent of Land. — The average rent of grazing is from L. 2, 10s.
to L. 3, 10s. per cow or ox. Farms are mostly let on leases of
nineteen years ; but in some instances they are only let from year
to year. The rent is paid in money, or occasionally in grain.
The amount paid varies with the soil. In the higher grounds few
spots let on permanent lease for less than 15s. per acre; while in
the lower farms on the Clyde the rent is as high as L. 3 and L. 3,
10s. per acre. A very large proportion of the parish lets at from
L. 1, 5s. to L. 2, 5s. per acre. Some fields near the town which have
lain long in pasture have been let for a few years at upwards of
L. 12 per acre. Much of the pasture in the haughs brings up-
wards of L. 4 per acre. About 1500 cows and oxen are annually
fed in this parish. The tilling of the ground employs about 280
horses. Wilkie's iron plough is now almost universally used.
Rate of Wages. — Labourers have from Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per
day, with victuals, and 2s. without. When regularly employed
their wages are from 9s. to 10s. per week. Women have from 6d.
to lOd. per day. Upwards of 130 masons are now employed at from
2s. lOd. to 3s. a-day. Mason's labourers have 10s. a-week; car-
penters have about 2s. 8d. a day; or from 16s. to 18s. a week.
Much has of late been done in fencing and draining. The
hedges on the Duke's estate, in particular, are remarkably well
kept. Among the disadvantages with which the agriculturist has
to contend are, small farms, deficiency of capital, and competition
for leases, by which too much is offered, and thus the farmer too
frequently is little better than the servant of the laird ; at the
same time, it ought to be remarked, that the rental of land is ge-
nerally supposed to be somewhat lower here than in some other
places in the neighbourhood. This may probably arise from the
fact, that clay soils are cultivated at more expense than any other
description, as requiring greater force of men, cattle and implements,
and absorbing an immense quantity of manure.
Quarries. — There are six freestone quarries in the parish, wrought
by upwards of fifty men. The number of colliers is about 120.
The average gross rental of the landward part of the parish is
282 LANARKSHIRE.
L. 11,537, 6s. 3d.; and of the burgh L. 8638, 4s. 7±d. Total
L. 20,175, 19s. lOd. nearly.
Produce. — The average gross amount of produce raised, as far
as can be ascertained, is as follows:
Produce of grain of all kinds, - ' ' - . I,. 1 4,329
Of hay, potatoes, &c. - - - - 7,336
Of lands in pasture, - - 6,000
Gardens, and orchards, - 600
Coals, quarries, and metals, ... 3,000
Miscellaneous produce, - 1,000
Total yearly value of raw produce, - L. 32,265
Cambric Weaving. — Hamilton has been the principal seat of imi-
tation cambric weaving since the introduction of the cotton trade
into Scotland. The reeds run from 1200 to 3000, which are the
finest setts that cotton has been wrought into. The number of
looms in Hamilton is 1291, and in the country 53. This was
at one time a thriving branch of trade, which in the course of fifty
years added to Hamilton whole streets of houses, chiefly built and
inhabited by industrious weavers. For the last fifteen or twenty years,
however, it has been on the decline ; and, if possible, is still getting
worse. The average wages are from 6d. to Is. 6d. per day; out
of which must be deducted Is. a- week for expenses, and 10s. per
annum for loom-rent. A house with a room and kitchen, and a
four-loom shop, lets at from L. 5 to L. 6. Many of the older and
more experienced hands better their circumstances considerably
by teaching apprentices. The females are employed in winding
weft, or in tambouring.
Lace-Manufactory, fyc. — The old lace-manufactory of this place,
which was introduced by one of the Duchesses of Hamilton, has for
many years been all but extinct. But about eight years ago a
Mr Galloch introduced a new manufactory of lace, which was im-
proved on by Mr John Go wans, and is still increasing. About twelve
respectable houses are now engaged in this lucrative and thriving
branch of trade, and new firms are daily forming. It employs
upwards of 2500 females, in this and the neighbouring parishes.
The lace is a sort of tamboured bobinette. Vast quantities of
black silk veils of peculiar patterns are also manufactured here.
There is a great and increasing demand for both of the above ar-
ticles throughout the whole of Britain, and also in America, and
the colonies. A weaver's wife can make higher wages at this trade
than her husband. Many thousands of check-shirts have of late
been manufactured here, and sent out to Australasia. The stock-
HAMILTON. 283
ing weaving, tanneries, saddle, and shoe trades seem to have dwin-
dled away considerably, since the publication of the former Statis-
tical Account.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Town. — The town of Hamilton stands on a rising ground, gent-
ly sloping towards the east, about a mile west of the conflux of
the Avon with the Clyde. Cadzow burn runs nearly through it.
The ancient town stood farther to the east, in the Duke's plea-
sure grounds, and was called the Netherton. That part of the
present town which stands near the flesh-market and the public
green, appears to be the most ancient. The rocks behind the
flesh-market are about twenty feet high, and were once occupied
by a mansion, called the Ha' or Hall, of which an antique dove-cot,
(which gives the name of Doo-cot-ha' to the place) is the only me-
morial now remaining. On the opposite side of the burn, stood a mill,
called the Ha' Mill, which has given the name of1" Shilling Hill"
to the street where it stood. When the tun^ ton, or town collected
round this place it was called Ha-mill-ton. So says tradition ;
but history, which is more to be depended on, gives, as we have al-
ready seen, a different and more satisfactory account. The date
of the foundation of the lower town cannot now be ascertained.
It has been long swept away. But that the upper town is also of
great antiquity appears from the fact, that it was considerable
enough to be erected into a burgh of barony in the year 1456
by James II. In 1548, Hamilton was created a royal burgh by
Queen Mary ; but Bailies James Hamilton and James Naismith
consented to resign that privilege in 1670, by accepting of a char-
ter from Duchess Anne, by which Hamilton was constituted the
chief burgh of the regality and dukedom of Hamilton. A law-
suit was entered into by the magistrates, &c. in 1723, before the Court
of Session, for the restoration of their ancient rights ; but it was
not till 1832, that the inhabitants were reinvested with the privi-
lege of sending a member to the House of Commons. There are
at present about 300 ten pound franchises upon the roll. At last
municipal election, 126 voted on the radical interest, and 118 for
the more moderate party. There were about 55 votes unpolled.
The town is in the hands of a Provost, three Bailies, a Trea-
surer, a Town- Clerk, and seven Councillors. Four new councillors
are elected annually, the four eldest on the list going out.
Revenues of the Town. — The revenues of the town are consider-
able, and arise chiefly from lands within the burgh, and shares in
284 LANARKSHIRE.
Hamilton Bridge, &c. The sums received and paid out by the
treasurer, from 5th November 1833, to 15th October 1834, are
as under :
Sums received. Sums paid.
Rent Roll, - L. 112513 6 Among these, some of the most promi-
Note charged in rent-roll, 160 2 0 nent are,
Sums recovered, - 59 22 2 For new prison, - L. 329 3 9
The following are some of the items of Minister's stipend, - 229
the above sums. Schoolmaster's salary, &c, 32 1 1 1
Rental for crop, 1833, 6081211 Mortifications, - - 57 17 4
From shares of bridge, - 55 5 0 Public lamps, - - 155 16 4
Burgess Tickets, - 17 15 1 Support of streets, - 322 13 3
Customs, - 39 3 94 Fire-engines and insurance, 834
Street manure, - - 21 9 0 Law-suits, - - 223 15 3
Green and holms crop 1834, 12 13 0
Road money, - - 46 0 0
Gas dividend, - - 14 0 0 Total discharge, includ-
Tot. chargeagainst Treasu- ing a great variety of
rer,includ. other sums is L. 2613 17 2 different sums, - L. 2796 2 Of
The town-court is held on Thursdays. This is also the seat of
the Sheriff-court for the middle ward. About twenty-five procura-
tors are licensed to practise before it ; of whom eighteen belong
to Hamilton. The court day is Friday. The Justice of Peace
Court sits on the first Monday of every month. There are also a
record of seisins, a tax-office, a stamp-office, and an excise-office.
In 1816 a Trades Hall was erected in Church Street. There
is a spacious hall in the upper storey for the meetings of the trades,
while in the under flat there is every accommodation for a respect-
able tavern.
Besides numerous societies or trades, (which are all in terms
of the act 5th William IV. chap. 40) there are a St John's Lodge
No 7, and two other mason lodges, two gardener's societies, and
a Wallace friendly society.
Gas-Work. — A gas-work, on a very elegant plan, was erected in
Hamilton by subscription, in the summer of 1831, at the expense
of L.2400. Three hundred L. 10 shares were subscribed, of which
L. 8 has only been uplifted, and from the advance in the price of
such shares as have been transferred, there is a fair prospect of the
subscribers being liberally remunerated for their outlay. From ex-
periments made at this work by Mr Burns, the present manager,
it appears that a cubic foot of the richest cannel coal produces
about 400 cubic feet of gas. The price of gas when sold by me-
ter is 10s. per 1000 cubic feet, or Is. per 100 cubic feet. Every
cubic foot is nearly equal to five imperial gallons ; of course 500
imperial gallons only cost Is. which is at the rate of about 3d. per
puncheon. Besides private lights there are now about 130 gas
lamps illuminated throughout the town for nine months in the
HAMILTON. 285
year, from sunset to sunrise, with the exception of five nights at
each full moon.
Supply of Water. — On Saturday, 24th May 1834, an attempt
was made in this town to bring into operation the Burghs Police
Bill (3 and 4 William IV. c. 46, 14th August 1833,) in whole or
in part, but more especially as regarded bringing a better supply
of water into the town. As the franchise in that case embraces
all persons "occupying premises of the value of not less than L. 10,"
a great many individuals came forward and threw out the bill. It
cannot, of course, be brought forward again in less than three years.
It has since been proposed to form a water company, with a ca-
pital of L. 2000, divided into 500 shares, of L. 4 each. The wa-
ter is to be brought in pipes, from two different quarters ; the unit-
ed distance of both places being about three miles, and the aver-
age diameter of the pipes in which it is to be brought three inches.
This proposal is not yet carried into effect.
Means of Communication, §*c. — Hamilton is 1 Of miles S. E.
of Glasgow, 36 W. of Edinburgh, 15 N. W. of Lanark, 7 N.
of Strathaven, and 8 miles S. of Airdrie. The market-day is
Friday. This town, along with Falkirk, Lanark, Linlithgow,
and Airdrie, has the privilege of sending a Member to Par-
liament. There are in the parish about 15 miles of turnpike
road, and about 30 miles of parochial roads. The great Glas-
gow and London road passes through the town ; and also an Edin-
burgh and Ayr road. This last was made in the year 1755, and,
if we except the road between Glasgow and Edinburgh, was the
first great turnpike road which was made in Scotland. A new
road to Ayr was lately opened, about seven miles to the south of
this. A great improvement is now making in Hamilton on the
London road, for the purpose of avoiding the brae in Muir Street,
and cutting off the awkward elbow at the cross. The new line of
road is upwards of 700 yards in length. Above Hamilton Green
it crosses the rivulet Cadzow by a stupendous bridge of three
arches, each 60 feet span. The top of the parapet wall is about
60 feet above the bed of the burn. The contract is about L.2050.
A handsome new bridge on the same line of road was lately thrown
across the Avon. A few hundred yards above it, there is an old
bridge of three arches, which is said to have been built at a very
remote period, at the expense of the monks belonging to the mo-
nastery at Lesmahagow. Hamilton Bridge over the Clyde, on the
Edinburgh road, is a handsome structure with five arches. It was
286 LANARKSHIRE.
built by authority of an act of Parliament, and was finished in
1780. It is still burdened with pontage for foot-passengers. Both-
well Bridge over the Clyde, on the road to Glasgow, is undoubted-
ly the oldest structure of the sort in Lanarkshire. It is not known
when it was built. It was till lately only 12 feet wide, but it has
now 32 feet of road- way. There is a private bridge over the Avon
at Fairholm, and another at Ross. The Glasgow and London
mail-coach passes through Hamilton twice a-d ay; at thirty minutes
past eight in the morning, for London, and at fifteen minutes before
one in the afternoon for Glasgow. There are Glasgow and Edin-
burgh bags at thirty minutes to eight morning, thirty minutes to
twelve noon, and at five afternoon. There is also a post between
Hamilton and Strathaven. The gross revenue of the post-office
here is at an average L. 982 per annum. Thirty years ago there
was only one coach on the Wednesdays between Hamilton and
Glasgow ; at present there are seven coaches daily, besides the
mail-coach. Other seven coaches daily pass and repass to places
south of Hamilton. About 128 horses are kept in the town, of
which number seventy are employed in this trade.
Flesh-market. — The number of cattle slaughtered in the sham-
bles at Hamilton during the following periods is as follows :
Cows <$£ oxen. Calves. Sheep. Lambs. Hogs.
From 1st April to 30th October 1831, 428 548 924 39 22
1st November to 30th April 1831, 445 534 960 202 19
1st May to 31st October 1832, 311 420 1029 835 . II
1st November to 30th April 1832, 354 424 615 2 20
1st May to 1st October 1833, 270 310 859 758 13
Consumed in 42 months, - '- 1808 2236 4387 1836 85
Ecclesiastical State. — The year 1585 is the epoch of the Pres-
byteries of Lanark and Glasgow. About 1590, or earlier, the
large Presbytery of Glasgow was dismembered, by the erection of
the Presbyteries of Hamilton and Paisley. The parishes of Eagles-
ham, Cathcart, and Carmunnock, belonged to Hamilton Presby-
tery till 1596, when they were restored to Glasgow, and the parish
of Kilbride substituted in their place. This Presbytery includes
the fourteen parishes of the Middle Ward.* The oldest date in the
Presbytery records is 6th September 1687. The oldest date in
the parochial register is 15th January 1650. The books of the
town-council go back only to 3d October 1701 ; but it is believed
that many older ones, at a remote period, got into the possession
of private individuals, and still exist.
* A new Relief Presbytery has lately been established in this town, including ten
congregations; Rev. Mr M'Farlane of Hamilton, Clerk.
HAMILTON. 287
The ancient parish of Cadzow, now Hamilton, included former-
ly the chapelry of Machan, (i. e. the " little plain,") now the pa-
rish of Dalserf. Chalmers, in his Caledonia, (Vol. iii. p. 683,)
informs us, that " David I. with consent of his son, Earl Henry,
granted the church of « Cadihou,' with its pertinents, in perpe-
tual alms to the church and bishops of Glasgow, and this grant was
confirmed by the bulls of several popes, inter 1170 and 1186."
The church of Cadzow, with the lands of Barlanerk and Badler-
nock, became afterwards the appropriate prebend of the Dean of
the see of Glasgow. In 1273, William Frazer, a younger son of
the Frazers of Tweeddale, was Dean of Glasgow and Rector of
Cadzow, when he was appointed Chancellor of Scotland. In 1454,
Andrew Muirhead, a son of Muirhead of Sauchope, was Rector of
Hamilton, and afterwards Bishop of Glasgow. Hamilton, by the in-
fluence of the first Lord Hamilton, was made a collegiate charge
in 1451 ; and thereupon a new church was built with a choir, two
cross aisles, and a steeple, all of polished stone, and highly orna-
mented. It was finished in April 1462, and George de Graham
appointed Provost. The patronage of this establishment was vest-
ed in Lord Hamilton ; but the patronage of the parish church of
Hamilton continued, as before, with the Bishop of Glasgow. Man-
ses, gardens, and glebes were provided for the provost and eight
prebends; besides a manse, garden and glebe, for a chaplainry, de-
dicated to the Virgin Mary. There is a farm at Edlewood still
called the chapel. At the epoch of the Reformation, Mr Archi-
bald Karry, " the vicar pensioner," had twenty merks yearly ; and
the dean had L. 349 in money, 16 bolls of meal, 24 bolls of oats,
and 24 capons yearly. A plate of the old collegiate church is given
by Grose in his Antiquities of Scotland. This building continued
till 1732. One of the cross aisles still remains, and is used as a
burying-place by the Hamilton family. On a stone cross, on one
of the walls, is cut out " Galatians, chapter vi. verse 14."
After Popery had been abolished in Scotland, and the Presby-
terian form of worship introduced by the act 1588, c. 99, had been
established by that of 1592, c. 116 — two ministers were settled in
Hamilton, upon a provision of eighteen chalders of victual. Read-
ers or catechists seem also to have been appointed in this parish.
In 1574, Mr John Davidson, minister, together with the kirk-land
of Hamilton, had out of the third of the deanery of Glasgow
L. 82, lls. Id., and out of the third of the priory of Blantyre,
L.27, 15s. 6d., together with L.23, and 18 bolls of meal out of
288 LANARKSHIRE.
the parsonage of Cambuslang. Mr Robert Raa, reader at Hamil-
ton, had L. 22, 4s. 5d. of stipend. In 1590, Mr Davidson was first
minister, and Mr Gavin Hamilton, second minister, of Hamilton.
The latter had 4 chalders and 4 bolls of bear, 1 chalder 4 bolls of
meal, and 12 bolls of wheat. Mr John Raa, reader, had out of
the vicarage of Hamilton L. 4, 8s. lOd. and out of the deanery of
Glasgow, L. 17, 15s. 6d. For many years after, there was only
one minister, with a stipend payable out of the third of the dean-
ery of Glasgow. By the act 1606, c. 1, the bishops were restored
to their temporalities; and by 1617, c. 2, the manses, glebes, and
other patrimony, with certain restrictions, were also restored. With
the interruption only of the period of Cromwell's usurpation, epis-
copacy continued down to 1689, when presbytery was fully restored.
Soon after (May 13th 1692) Mr Robert Wylie, formerly minis-
ter of Askirk, was admitted minister of Hamilton, on the under-
standing, that, as formerly, he was to have a colleague. In that
view, an address was presented to the presbytery, praying leave to
give a call to Mr Alexander Findlater, who having been lately set-
tled in the parish of Avondale, was very reluctant to quit his flock.
Strong objections were accordingly made by Mr Findlater and the
commissioners from Hamilton, which ended in a reference by the
presbytery to the synod. After a good deal of procedure, which
was carried the length of suspending Mr Findlater for resisting to
be removed to Hamilton, he at length complied, and was admitted
as second minister, January 9, 1695. Mr Wylie, the first minister,
complains that " the presbytery were so far from assisting him in
getting Hamilton provided with another minister, conform to their
promise to him at his entry, that they did, without any valid ground,
what in them lay to impede the same." Of all the heritors who con-
curred in attaining this desirable object, none was more anxious to
carry the measure into execution than Anne Duchess of Hamilton.
The present church stands on a high ground (at one period) to
the south of the town; but it is now more centrical, from the streets
which have been built to the south and west. The body of the
church is a circle with four cross aisles. The design, which in
general is accounted very elegant, was by Adam the elder. It
is capable of containing about 800 sitters. The minister of the
first charge has a glebe of about twenty-seven acres, which was ex-
cambed some years ago for three acres and a-half in the Ha-
milton haughs. No manse has as yet been erected upon it. The
minister of the second charge has a manse but no glebe. 1 he
HAMILTON. 289
stipend of both is the same, namely, 16 chalders, half meal, half
barley, payable in money, at the highest fiar prices of the county,
L. 5 Sterling for communion elements, and L. 2, 15s. 6d. to each
of the ministers, according to use and wont. The number of com-
municants male heads of families is about 260. The charge is about
to be uncollegiated quoad sacra. A new church, capable of contain-
ing 1100, and proposed to be in connection with the establishment,
is now building.* Of the various sectaries prevailing here, the
Relief is the most prosperous. There are two meeting houses of
this persuasion, one built in 1761, in Muir Street; and another erect-
ed in Brandon Street in 1832. The old congregation give their pas-
tor L. 200 per annum, including a manse; the second congregation
give L. 100 per annum, without a manse. An Antiburgher meeting
house was erected at Blacks-well in 1761, and a New Light Burgher
house, near the church, towards the end of last century. These are
not in so thriving a state as their neighbours. A tabernacle, in con-
nection with the Congregational Union of Scotland, has lately been
re-opened in Black's-well, and an interim preacher appointed. The
Old Scots Independents have a meeting house in an upper cham-
ber in the Back-of-the-barns. The Macmillans or Cameroni-
ans have also preaching in a hall once a month, and are attempt-
ing to establish a station here. The Roman Catholics have public
worship once a month in the Mason's Lodge. It is well attend-
ed by the Irish. The priest comes up from Glasgow. There are
few of any other sect. There are several Bible and Missionary
Societies, and also a very useful Orphan Society, for which fre-
quent contributions are made. The collections at the church door
on public occasions are usually from L. 12 to L. 18.
Sitting*,
Parish Church, . . / '•• . .' . 800
St John's Church, . 1100
Relief Church, Muir Street, . . . ,. . 1105
Relief Church, Brandon Street, 940
Antiburgher Church, Black's-well, . . . 582
New Light Burgher Church, 700
Congregational Chapel Black's-well, .''" 'V1' '. 240
Old Scots Independents, ;V • ,,,'V. ' -.;•*, .,>••: ' » 70
5537
The Cameronians have lately obtained a disjunction from the
congregation at Wishaw-town, and meet regularly here once a
month ; as do also the Roman Catholics once in six weeks. The
* A proportion of not less than one-sixth of the whole is reserved for the poor.
Fifty of the sittings are let at 2s. each, and the rest rise by a graduated scale of 3d. on
each row till they reach 6s., which is the highest price of any in the church.
290 LANARKSHIRE.
number of families Dissenting or Seceding is 907 ; of Roman
Catholic families, 45.
Education. — Number of schools in this parish at last examina-
tion, and the number of scholars attending each.
Scholars.
Grammar-school, - 35
13 English schools, - 722
Boarding-school for young ladies, - 20
Do. do. ... 50
Writing school, - 80
English School, Low- Waters, . 33
Do. do. Earnock, - - 12
Do. do. Darngaber, - - 45
The salary of the grammar-schoolmaster is L. 34, 4s. : and his
fees may amount to L. 50. As session-clerk he has about L. 30
per annum. The fees paid at the grammar-school are 7s. 6d.
for Latin, and 10s. 6d. for Latin and Greek, per quarter. The
ladies' school fees are from 5s. to 10s. 6d. per quarter. The
grammar-school of Hamilton is of ancient date, and has no doubt
been instrumental in producing that superior civilization, courtesy
of manners, and ardent pursuit of literature, for which many of
the inhabitants of the place are supposed to be distinguish-
ed. In 1588 we find Lord John Hamilton granting a bond, still
in possession of the corporation, settling for ever on that school
the yearly sum of L.20 pounds Scots. The present school-house
is a venerable pile, near the centre of the town, containing a long
wainscotted hall, emblazoned with the names of former scholars,
cut out in the wood, as at Harrow. Many of these are from fo-
reign climes, and from all parts of Britain. Pillans, Whale, Gil-
lies, and other eminent teachers have been masters of this school ;
and the present teacher, the Rev. George Shaw, is not inferior in
classical attainments, assiduity and success as a teacher, to any of
his predecessors. The ladies' schools have also been of great ser-
vice in instructing the understandings, and in contributing to the
accomplishments, useful and ornamental, of the female sex.
The Hamilton Sabbath School Society has under its charge 7
schools and 238 scholars. The number of scholars attending the
Societies' schools are not so numerous as formerly, as a number of
the town clergy have commenced Sabbath schools connected with
their own congregations. These schools include above 300 young
persons.
Library, Sfc. — There is a public subscription library in the town,
which was instituted in 1808, principally through the instrumen-
tality of the late Dr John Hume. It now contains upwards of
HAMILTON. 291
3000 volumes. For many years it prospered exceedingly ; but
since the managers began to be chosen by popular election it has
been gradually on the decline. There are several other public
libraries, but all of them are on a smaller scale. — A mechanics'
institution was established about eight years ago, a good library
collected, and lectures delivered regularly once a fortnight on a
variety of interesting topics ; but as soon as the novelty of the thing
ceased, its supporters gradually dropt away. But the inhabitants
of this parish are not singular in preferring that sort of knowledge
which costs the least trouble and expense. It has revived again
with great spirit.
Poor. — The charitable institutions and other provisions made
for the poor of this parish are considerable.
1. The Duke's Hospital. This is an old building, with a bel-
fry and a bell, at the Cross of Hamilton, which was erected in
lieu of one which formerly stood in the Netherton. The pen-
sioners used to reside here, but it is now more profitably let out
for their behoof. It contributes to the support of 12 old men,
at the rate of L. 8, 18s. each per annum, with a suit of clothes once
in two years. It is proposed to increase the number to 15.
2. Aikman's Hospital. This hospital was built and endowed
in 1775 by William Aikman, Esq. proprietor of an estate in the
parish, and some time merchant in Leghorn. The house stands
in Muir Street. Four poor men have here a free house, L.4 per
annum, and a suit of clothes every second year.
3. Rae's Mortification. Mr John Rae, and a few other well-
disposed people, formerly inhabitants, mortified money to the care
of the town-council, the interest of which, L. 9, 2s. 4d., appointed
for the relief of poor householders, is mostly paid to the poor
yearly.
4. Robertson and Lyon's Mortification. Mr Robertson was a
native of Hamilton, and sometime sheriff-clerk of Lanark. It con-
tributes L. 4 yearly to nine poor men.
5. Miss Christian Allan, who died in 1785, bequeathed to the
care of the kirk-session, for the behoof of the poor, L. 50, the in-
terest of which is paid yearly.
Besides the above, the kirk-session have, —
1. An orchard at Fairneygair, left some years ago by Mr Wil-
liam Torbet, which lets at L. 10 per annum.
2. A legacy of L. 50, the interest of which is to be divided
among five poor female householders named by the kirk-session.
292 LANARKSHIRE.
3. A legacy of L. 50, of which little more than L. 30 was rea-
lized, to be expended in clothing the most indigent of the poor.
4. A donation of L. 100, the interest to be applied in educating
twelve poor children.
The collections at the church door amount per annum to about
L. 90 ; average amount of mortcloth dues per annum, L. 30.
The average weekly number of persons on the session funds is
14. There are 238 poor people on the parish, supported at the
rate of about L. 14 per week, or L. 800 nearly per annum. The
allowance to each individual is from 6d. to 2s. 6d. per week. Im-
mense numbers of beggars go about seeking alms; and people
with passes from Glasgow (often forged) are numerous and trouble-
some. Of late, many little children, from six to twelve years of
age, are permitted to beg from door to door. Something ought
to be done, for the sake of these poor creatures themselves, to put
down this practice ; as it is well known that their parents are often
able enough to work, and do work, but take this cheap mode of sup-
porting their miserable offspring.
Prison. — The old prison in Hamilton was built in the reign
of Charles L, and, although a handsome building in its day, has
now gone much into disrepair. It has been bought up, and will
soon all be removed, except the steeple, town clock, and bell.
As this is the place of confinement for the delinquents of the
Middle Ward, it may not be uninteresting to show the number of
debtors and criminals confined here for the last twelve years. Be-
sides the following, it ought, however, to be recollected, that many
prisoners from this ward are taken to Glasgow.
Year. Criminals. Debtors. Year. Criminals. Debtors.
1823, 45 50 1830, 82 46
1824, 40 50 1831, 84 31
1825, 46 32 1832, 102 48
1826, 50 36 1833, 98 54
1827, 77 44 1834, 6 1 to 1 2th July 23
1828, 70 31 —
1829, 69 27 827 475
It would appear that criminals are on the increase and debtors
on the decrease.
Fairs. — Hamilton in former times was a great mart for lint and
wool, and was attended by persons from all parts of the country. At
present, however, that trade has taken a different channel, and only
a small quantity of lint (and no wool) is now sold here. Our fairs
have in consequence dwindled into a mere shadow of what they
once were, and at present are little better than larger market days.
There are five principal fairs m the year.
HAMILTON. 293
The absurd practice of keeping up the old and new style is still
observed in our fairs ; but, fortunately, the terms are now all kept
by the new style.
Inns, Sfc. — There are two inns in the town which keep post chaises,
one that hires out gigs and cars. There are several excellent and
very respectable secondary inns and taverns for the accommoda-
tion of travellers, &c.
There are 110 public-houses in the town and parish, in which
ardent spirits or malt liquors are sold.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
An English traveller who visited Scotland in 1723, thus de-
scribes the people : " The common people wear all bonnets, in-
stead of hats ; and although some of the townsmen have hats, they
wear them only on Sundays, and extraordinary occasions. There
is nothing of the gaiety of the English, but a sedate gravity in every
face, without the stiffness of the Spaniards ; and I take this to be
owing to their praying and frequent long graces, which gives their
looks a religious cast. Certainly no nation on earth observes the
Sabbath with that strictness of devotion and resignation to the will
of God. They all pray in their families before they go to church,
and between sermons they fast; after sermon, everybody retires
to his own home, and reads some book of devotion till supper,
which is generally very good on Sunday, after which they sing
psalms till they go to bed. There is no dinner prepared on the
Sabbath, and, in inns, travellers are obliged to put up with bread
and butter, or a fresh egg, or fast till after the evening sermon,
when they never fail of a hot supper." According to custom, the
eating department forms a considerable item in this English gentle-
man's account. But the fasting here spoken of, and what relates
to dress, (and, it is to be feared, some other practices,) have long
passed away.
About the middle of last century, and a good deal later, the prac-
tice of hard drinking was very common. About the time of the Ame-
rican war, politics and infidelity began to be introduced. Of late a
reaction has taken place. Infidelity is no longer fashionable, and re-
ligion is now either warmly embraced, or, if neglected in its essen-
tial duties and requirements, it is uniformly spoken of with respect.
Trade has also been equally fluctuating as manners, religion, and
morals. At one period the malting trade formed no inconsiderable
branch of industry in this town. Many memorials of this trade are
still to be found, and the richest and oldest society in Hamilton is
LANARK. U
294 LANARKSHIRE.
the Society .of Maltsters, although no such employment, as a distinct
branch of trade, is now carried on. The linen trade, which at one
period supported so many of the town's people, is now also nearly
extinct. The imitation cotton cambric trade, which in 1792 had
reached its maximum, has for many years been on the decline ;
and it is to be feared that the formidable combinations among the
weavers may in time cause the manufacturers either to invent new
machinery, or to seek out some other channel for their work. While
I now write, about 300 weavers are parading the streets with a web
which had been given out by a house in town below the " table
prices," which they prescribe to the manufacturer. At the same
time, the weaving is paid at a rate which cannot procure for the
workman the ordinary comforts, or even the necessaries of life.
The lace trade, established here about eight years ago by a house
at Nottingham, which sent down a number of English women, who
took up schools and taught the tambourers here the art, is now in
a thriving state, and is contributing greatly to the happiness and
comfort of the community. The building of the addition to Ha-
milton Palace, the erection of the new buildings already alluded
to, the formation of Duke Street, which has just been completed,
and many other improvements which are going forward, have con-
tributed in no small degree to the support of a large portion of the
community. Upon the whole, since the publication of the former
report, this town and parish have increased in inhabitants, in wealth,
in domestic comfort, in morals, in manners, and religion, as may
be seen from the foregoing account.
July 1835.
PARISH OF GLASFORD.
PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. GAVIN LANG, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Extent and Boundaries. — THE parish of Glasford is about eight
miles in length. Its figure, as laid down in the map, resembles a
sand-glass, three miles and three-quarters at its broadest extreme,
two miles in the opposite end, and about one-half mile in the
GLASFORD. • 295
middle. It contains in all eleven square miles, or 5598 Scots
acres. It is bounded on the north-west by East Kilbride and
Blantyre; north, by Hamilton; south, by Avondale ; and east,
by Stonehouse.
Topographical Appearances. — The parish is separated into two
grand divisions, — the moors and the dales ; the latter of which com-
prehend a beautiful strath of land, that runs along the lower part
of the parish, and is bounded on the one side by the Avon. The
aspect of the parish presents in some places a gradual rise, but
nothing that can be termed mountainous. The district of the
moors is in many parts bleak and barren. Owing to its high po-
sition the air is keen, but the climate is considered healthy. The
soil may be reckoned of three kinds, moss, clay, and light loam.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Chief Land-Owners. — The chief land-owners are the Right Ho-
nourable Lady Montgomerie, (Patroness;) George Alston, Esq.
of Muirburn ; John Marshall, Esq. of Chapelton ; John Jackson,
Esq. of Hallhill ; and William Semple, Esq. of Heads, &c.
Antiquities. — Three high stones stand upright on a small emi-
nence upon the lands of Avonholm, respecting the origin of which
there are various opinions. Some suppose they mark the resting-
place of martyrs, and others that they are the tombs of noblemen ;
but more probably they are remnants of Druidical superstition. Till
within a few years the ruins of an ancient castle were to be seen very
near the mansion-house of Hallhill. The late proprietor, John
Millar, Esq. caused it to be taken down, when there were found
some specimens of beautiful china, unfortunately broken, and a
few other relics. It is said to have been a very strong fort, con-
taining one spacious arch, under which an hundred men could be
drawn up. The building was evidently more intended for defence
than for a place of residence. — There is a small enclosure at a
place called Shawtonhill, in the western part of the parish, which
is appropriated as a burying-ground by a few members of the So-
ciety of Friends in Glasgow. It has not been used for a great
length of time. The land is burdened with the sum of 12s. 2Jd.
annually, which is paid by two possessors of the adjoining grounds.
They are obliged to preserve the fence, which surrounds a space
of nine falls. The ruins of the former church and belfry, built in
] 633, are still standing in the grave yard, where also the tomb of
a martyr is to be seen inscribed, " To the memory of the very
worthy Pillar of the Church, Mr William Gordon of Earlston in
296 LANARKSHIRE.
Galloway, shot by a party of dragoons on his way to Bothwell
Bridge, 22d June 1679, aged 65 ; inscribed by his great-grand-
son, Sir John Gordon, Bart, llth June 1772."
Eminent Characters. — Mrs Isabella Graham was born in this
parish. Her father, Mr J. Marshall, was a small proprietor at a
place called Heads, from which he removed to the Abbey parish
of Paisley. The piety and excellence of Mrs Graham require no
comment here. A memoir of her was first published at New
York, and reprinted in London 1816. In 1766, she left her na-
tive country for America with her husband, and spent the greater
part of her remaining days in that foreign land. She died on the
27th July 1814.
Mansion Houses. — The principal of these are, Muirburn, Cru-
therland, Avonholm, Westquarter House, Hallhill, Craigthornhill,
and Heads, &c.
Mills. — There are two upon the Avon, one for oats, &c. and
another for flour, erected in 1833.
Parochial Registers. — The earliest is dated 1692, when the Rev.
Francis Borland was minister of the parish. They are rather
confused from the first, and have not been regularly attended to
for the last thirty-seven years.*
* The following account of the sufferings of the people in the parish of Glasford for
religion and non-conformity to Prelacy, about the year 1 660, appears to have been
appointed by the kirk-session of 1694, to be inserted in their records. As exemplifying
the persecutions of the time, it is thought not unworthy of being presented here at length.
" Imprimis, Mr William Hamilton, minister in Glasford, who had been ordained
minister of this parish about January 1644, and continued in the faithful and pa-
tient exercise of his ministry here, till after the restoration of King Charles II., was
in the year 1666 most injuriously silenced and thrust out of his charge by the then
Bishop of Glasgow ; and when afterwards he was indulged to preach the Gospel at
Strathaven in the year 1669, he was there confined within the bounds of that parish.
" Hem, The parish of Glasford was injuriously fined in the sum of eleven hundred
merks Scots, which they were forced to pay, upon the account that the curate's house,
Mr Finlay, who was then incumbent of the ?aid parish, was by robbers broken up,
about the year 1660, although no person of the said parish was anyways guilty of the
fact, being done by strangers, who were afterwards apprehended and executed for the
robbery ; at their death confessed the same, declaring that they had not done above
two dollars worth of damage to the said Mr Finlay, his house or goods.
" Item, Robert Semple in Craigthorn, William Semple Whitcraig, William Mar-
shall in Four Pennyland, having been at the rising in Pentland Hills, were there either
killed, or received their death wounds, in their testifying against the corruption of
their times.
" Item, John Hart, in Westquarter, who had been at the engagement at Pentland
Hills, after his return home, was apprehended, carried to Glasgow, and there exe-
cuted on the foresaid account.
" Item, James Scouler arid Gavin Semple, having gone toward Hamilton to hear
sermon, on the same day on which Bothwell Bridge skirmish fell out, were on their
way thither both cruelly killed.
" Item, John Semple in Craigthorn, sometime after Bothwell Bridge, in the year
1684, was apprehended and cruelly used by soldiers, then laid up in Hamilton Tol-
l>ooth ; afterwards carried to foresaid tolbooth, where he was barbarously handled,
his fingers driven into the thummeking, and his legs driven into the bolts, and that
GLASFORD. 297
III. — POPULATION
In 1755 the population was - 559
1792, .... 788
1811, - - - - 900
1821, - - - 1300
1831, - - - ' - - 1730
The increase is chiefly to be found in the manufacturing part
of the community, and may be attributed to the encouragement
given to feuing, by the proprietors of land around the village.
both at one and the same time, for the space of five hours together, to increase his tor-
ments, afterwards they condemned him to die, passing sentence of death upon him
in the forenoon, and executing him in the afternoon of the same. The same John
Semple of good report, well versed in the Holy Scriptures, by the very quoting of
which he even dashed his persecutors. He bore sufferings with much patience.
" Item, A sister of the foresaid John Semple, coming to see him while he was a pri-
soner in Edinburgh, and to put on his dead clothes, the persecutors made her a pri-
soner, also first in Edinburgh, then in Donnoter Castle. Likewise the mother of the
said young woman named Janet Scott, going to see her daughter at Donnoter, she
was also made a prisoner there ; afterwards they were brought to Leith to be sent
over sea to America, but it was so ordered that both were reserved, and sent to Edin-
burgh Tolbooth, where they lay in prison a long time. The whole time of the daugh-
ter's imprisonment was about two years and three quarters of a year, and the mother's
imprisonment was near two years.
" Item, Janet Scott suffered much by the troopers coming at several times upon her,
free quartering, and destroying her corn, grass, and meal, and driving away her
horses and cattle, which she never after received, the said troopers carrying themselves
rudely and barbarously to them in the house.
" Item, In 1685, Michael Marshall and John Kay were both taken prisoners for
their non-conformity, and banished and sent over sea to New Jersay in America.
The said Michael Marshall staid several years in America. After the late happy re-
volution, designing to come home, he was taken prisoner at sea, and was carried to
France, where he was kept one year and a-half in prison, and endured great hardships
before lie was delivered.
"Item, Aboutthe said year 1685, Alexander Hamilton and John Struthersin Shaw-
tonhill, John Semplc in Shawton, John Fleeming in Chapelton, John Walker there,
James Scott there, John Paterson there, John Semple in Nethershields, William
Semple there, Gavin Paterson there, John Marshall, elder and younger, Chapelton,
and James Lowrie there, were sorely troubled and harassed by the then Lord Glas-
ford, who caused a troop of soldiers to search for and apprehend them, upon pretence
of conversing with, resetting and giving entertainment to persons who had been in
arms against the established Government, and having been actually in arms them-
selves ; upon which allegencies, the said persons were imprisoned fourteen days in
Edinburgh, and put to much expense in employing agents to defend them, and al-
though the said Lord Glasford summoned many witnesses to compea'r against them,
yet could he not get anything proven against them.
" Item, The parish of Glasford was much oppressed in the year before the rising at
Bothwell Bridge, by the free quartering of a company of the Highland host, and by
paying besides to each of them sixpence by day, besides hardships and robberies com-
mitted by them upoirthe people of the said parish, while they quartered them.
" Item, John Alston in Glasford Mill lay half a year in Glasgow Tolbooth for refus-
ing the test.
"Item, John Fleeming, Elder, in Chapelton, was imprisoned thirty-four weeks, partly
in Glasgow, partly in Edinburgh, and partly in Burnthallin, for his refusing to take
the test, and had the sentence of banishment passed upon him to America, although
providentially it was not executed.
" Item, William Semple in Nethershields was imprisoned in Stirling about three
months, because of his refusing the test.
"Item, Thomas Fleeming in Chapelton was, upon the account of his non-conformity,
and going to the field preaching, much troubled by the Donnoter Hull-yards, who
caused take an inventory of his goods in order to seize them, which cost him about
l(j pounds Scots before he could get his goods set free, and himself delivered from the
said oppression. As also the said Thomas Fleeming was apprehended by Laird tiyni
298 LANARKSHIRE.
Number of bachelors upwards of 50 years of age, - 7
maids upwards of 45 years, - 9
widowers, ----- 25
widows, ------ 36
Number of births during the last 7 years, at an average each year, - 45
deaths, .- 24
marriages, „_--__._ 15
Number of houses inhabited, .-__.. 269
uninhabited, , . » , - - - - - 1
building, ""'»"_ _ _ . _ 8
The number of families employed in manufactures, *• - - 123
in agriculture, - - - 133
The number of proprietors of land is 50. Of these 17 are non-
resident, and 36 stand above L.50 in valuation. A considerable
number of females are engaged at the loom, at which they spend
usually fourteen hours each working day. For some years past the
remuneration has not at all been adequate to their support, but is
now much improved. Such a mode of life is not beneficial to the
health or morality of females in particular.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — As mentioned at the commencement of this ac-
count, the number of Scots acres in the parish is computed to be
5598. Of these 440 are reckoned not arable, being chiefly a deep
moss. It is probable, however, that, in the course of a few years,
the greater part of this waste will become cultivated ground, if
farming operations continue to improve as they have done of late
years. There is but little wood, and that little is planted. Beech,
ash, and fir trees prevail.
Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is L. 1, 10s. per
acre ; that for grazing a good cow, L. 3 ; sheep, 6s. per head. The
breed of cattle is principally Ayrshire. A good deal of attention
has been paid to rearing them. Oats are mostly cultivated here.
upon the foresaid account, and forced to pay five pounds Scots before he could get out
of his hands aga<n.
" Item, Alexander Hamilton in Shawtonhill was taken prisoner by Gavin Muir,
Laird of Sachopp and his men, on pretence of having been at a conventicle, and car-
ried to Glasgow tolbooth, where he lay a month imprisoned.
" Item, John Alston, Elder, in Glasford, was fined in three dollars, because he did
not baptize his child by the curate Mr Davison, which he actually paid.
" Item, John Marshall in Heads was imprisoned fourteen days in Hamilton tol-
booth, because of his wife not hearing the curate Mr Davison.
" Item, Gavin Paterson in Nethershields was fined in three dollars, which he accord-
ingly paid, for his wife not hearing the curate.
" Item, Ann Semple, spouse to Thomas Watt in Croutherland, was imprisoned
fourteen days in Hamilton, for not hearing the curate.
" Item, Thomas Watt, foresaid, was fined in three dollars, and John Young in Flatt,
was fined in two dollars, which they both actually paid, upon the account of their
hearing a sermon at the Torrance House, preached by Mr Robert Muir.
" Item, Adam Fleemingin Shawtoii was imprisoned in Hamilton tolbooth, for lodg-
ing Mr Matthew M'Koll two nights in his house, and was fined in fifty pounds Scots
besides.
" This account of sufferings within this parish, the session appointed to be insert
in their register, adfuiuram vos memoriam."
GLASFORD. 299
More wheat, however, was sown during the last than in any pre-
vious year. Potatoes are a prevalent crop. Nineteen years is the
general term of leases. Some of these are conditional, which im-
plies a liberty of resigning, provided that the parties are not satis-
fied at the termination of such years as may be specified. The
farm-houses may be considered rather comfortable ; a number of
them have been recently built. There are three freestone quar-
ries near the village of Westquarter, and one at a place called Flatt,
from which most of the buildings are supplied. A large lime-work
is in operation in that division of the parish, termed the Moors.
Coal has also been found in different parts, but not in abundance.
At present there is one colliery going on in the estate of Cruther-
land, for the use of the property chiefly.
Produce. — The annual produce may be as follows :
Potatoes, . . 40 acres Scots.
Turnips, . . 10
Hay, . . .261
Oats, . . 320
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
There is no market-town in Glasford. Strathaven is the near-
est, distant about two and a-half miles. The parish contains three
villages, Westquarter, Chapelton, and Heads. The population of
Westquarter is 501 ; of Chapelton, 558; of Heads, 68.
Means of Communication. — Letters are conveyed to these vil-
lages from the post-town Strathaven, by a runner who goes daily.
The turnpike-road leading from Strathaven to Glasgow, by east
Kilbride, stretches four miles through the parish ; that from Strath-
aven to Hamilton, about two and a-half miles. Two stage-coaches
run in opposite directions, both from Strathaven, one by east Kil-
bride, and the other by Stonehouse, to which there is easy access.
The bridge over the Avon at Glasford mill is very narrow, and not
in good repair. It is proposed to have it widened. That over the
Calder at Crutherland is better. Thorn and beech hedges pre-
vail, which are now obtaining much more attention than in former
years. This is particularly visible in the moorland parts, where en-
closures of any kind are few.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church, built in 1820, is situ-
ated in the village of Westquarter, which is almost at one extre-
mity of the parish, being distant from the other end six miles. It
is in good repair, and calculated to contain 560 sitters. The
manse was built in 1804. An addition and offices were erected in
1833, which render it very commodious. The glebe and garden,
&c. include between eight and nine acres of excellent soil. The
300 LANARKSHIRE.
stipend allotted in 1822 is sixteen chalders, half meal and half
barley. There is no chapel or meeting-house here; but the num-
ber of families attending • Dissenting chapels in the neighbouring
parishes is 130. Divine service is occasionally performed at
Chapelton, three miles from the stated place of worship. The
number of communicants amounts to 400. A female society for
religious purposes was instituted in January 1835, likewise a paro-
chial library for each division.
Education. — At Westquarter is one parochial school, in which
are taught besides the common branches, Greek and Latin. The
salary is 300 merks, or L. 16, 13s. 4d. with legal accommodation.
The schoolmaster's fees amount to L. 32 per annum, and his
emoluments from other sources to L. 6 per annum. There are
two schools at Chapelton, one of which has a grant of 100 merks,
or L. 5, lls. Id. and a school-house assigned to the teacher. Far-
ther to the west at Mill-well is another school, to which is at-
tached 50 merks or L. 2/1 5s. 6^d. with a school-house and garden,
from the Right Honourable Lady Montgomerie, and L. 3 Sterling
from the parish. These schools are so situated as to be accessible
to all the different parts of the parish. In 1832 two Sabbath
schools were opened, one at Westquarter, the other at Chapel-
ton, at which 300 children usually attend ; and besides these there
is an adult female Sabbath evening class containing 30 ; which in-
stitutions are supported by collections.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers regularly
receiving aid in 1832 was about 30, and the average sum calcu-
lated to each, L. 5, 10s. yearly. Besides these, others receive as-
sistance in various sums. The assessment of the parish for that
year was L. 170, 9s. 7d., and the collections at the church door
during 1833 were L. 15, 6s. l^d.
Charitable Institutions. — At Westquarter, one male Friendly So-
ciety, members, 112; one Female do. 23; one Temperance do.
107. At Chapelton, three Friendly Societies, in all 214; one
Temperance do. members, 41.
These friendly societies are of great benefit not only to the in-
dividuals connected with them, but to the heritors of the parish.
They are calculated both to promote industry and excite a desire
of independence.
Inns, fyc. — There are six houses in Westquarter and Chapelton
that retail spirits. The demoralizing effects of these places of re-
sort are too evident.
July 1835.
.
PARISH OF
AVONDALE OR STRATHAVEN.
PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. WILLIAM PROUDFOOT, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — THE parish is not unfrequently named Strathaven or
Straven ; but Avondale is the proper name. Dale seems to be
much more descriptive of the face of the country than Strath.
There is a considerable town in the parish named Strathaven ; so
that now Strathaven is the name uniformly applied to the town, and
Avondale to the parish. I shall speak of the town and parish se-
parately.
Boundaries, Extent, fyc. — Avondale is bounded on the north by
the parishes of Glasford and Kilbride ; on the west by Loudon
and Galston and Sorn ; on the south by Muirkirk and Lesmahagow ;
and on the east by Lesmahagow, Stonehouse, and part of Glasford.
It contains nearly 64 square miles, (32,000 acres,) and yieldsarental
of nearly L. 20,000 a-year. The valued rent is L. 7650 Scots.
Topographical Appearances. — Though lying in rather a high dis-
trict of the country, yet the lands are generally flat, rising gently
from the banks of the river Avon, especially towards the west and
south. There are several ridges and small hills in the parish, such
as Kype's rigg, Hawkwood hill, Dungivel, and the hills on the
boundaries of Ayrshire. There are also the interesting eminences
called the Floors' hills, and the Kirkhill, but these are scarcely
entitled to be named hills. None of these heights seem to rise
more than 800 or 900 feet above the level of the sea.
Climate and Soil. — Upon the whole, the climate may be said to
be rather moist ; but it is at the same time healthy. The inhabit-
ants are in general a long-lived race. Many of them at present
living are above eighty years of age, and one is above ninety. Per-
haps in few places is there a finer race of men than in Avondale.
They are tall and stout, and well-formed. There are no particu-
lar diseases peculiar to the district. Throughout the greater part
302 LANARKSHIRE.
of the parish the soil is light and dry, and susceptible of great im-
provement, especially in the higher districts.
Geology. — The rocks of this parish belong to the coal forma-
tion of the secondary class. The common whinstone or trap which
is found in great abundance in every part of the parish, exhibits at
its junctions with the coal formation many interesting pheno-
mena. Clay ironstone abounds. Limestone is very plenty in various
districts ; and is wrought at three different places. There is also
a sufficient supply of coal for burning the lime in the immediate
vicinity of the kilns. But though perfectly fitted for burning the
lime, this coal is not accounted sufficiently good for family use.
Coal used for family purposes is brought from the works of Quarter,
in the parish of Hamilton, and Marlage, in the parish of Dalserf.
The distance to each is about five miles ; and 14 t;wt. can be laid
down at Strathaven for 5s.
Hydrography. — The Avon is the principal stream in the parish,
which it divides nearly into two equal parts. It rises on the con-
fines of Ayrshire, and runs nearly east by north. It is a beautiful
stream, with gently sloping banks ; but which unfortunately are al-
most entirely destitute of wood. Indeed the want of wood is felt
throughout the whole parish, especially in the upper district of it.
There are several smaller streams which join the Avon in its pro-
gress through the parish. There are Cadder and Pomilion on the
north ; and Givel, or Geil, Lochar, Lowhere, or Lockart, and Kype,
on the south. On this last stream at Spectacle-eye-miln, about a
mile to the south of Strathaven, there is a considerable waterfall.
The waters of the Kype fall over a precipice of about fifty feet. The
scenery in the neighbourhood has been much admired. Trouts abound
in all these streams. Salmon used to be found at the very source
of the Avon, till some erections were raised lower down the river,
which for some years has prevented them from ascending. Report
says that arrangements are now making to permit the fish again to
ascend ; so that we are in the expectation of being once more vi-
sited by this delightful fish.
Zoology — Grouse^ fyc. — Vast quantities of grouse are to be found
on the moors in the higher districts of the parish. His Grace the
Duke of Hamilton has some thousands of acres in sheep pasture,
and kept for grouse shooting. Perhaps few places in the south of
Scotland are more favourable for game than the Strathaven moors.
Partridges abound in the low lands. Plovers and ducks, &c. are
to be found everywhere.
A VON DALE. 303
Horses and Cows. — The real breed of Clydesdale horses is
reared here in considerable numbers. Tradition states, that, at a
remote period, one of the Dukes of Hamilton sent a superior breed
of horses to Avondale. They were kept in the castle ; and from
these and the common mares of the country have sprung the real
Lanarkshire or Clydesdale breed of horses. It has been alleged,
that of late this breed has been injured by being too much crossed
with lighter horses, intended more for coaches and the saddle. They
are, however, still to be found here in great perfection and beauty.
The cows kept here are of the Ayrshire kind. They are reared
in great numbers. Indeed, it is said that this race of cattle can
be obtained here as pure as in most places in Ayrshire. It has
been alleged that the Ayrshire farmer, when tempted by a price,
will part with tKe very best of his stock ; while with us, the farmers
retain the best, and part with thos^e which are accounted not so va-
luable.
Strathaven veal has long been held in high estimation. It is rear-
ed here in great quantities, and sent both to Edinburgh and Glas-
gow ; but chiefly to the Glasgow market. In preparing the animals for
market, they are kept in a dark place, and fed with great care. The
ordinary price of fed veal is from L. 3 to L. 5. But a much higher
sum has been obtained for those particularly large and well fed.
Botany. — Hippuris vulgaris (rare) is found in Moss Malloch;
Utricularia vulgaris, in Lochgate Loch ; Eriophorum vaginatum, in
the moors ; Sherardia arvensis, in dry corn fields ; Plantago ma-
ritima, near Drumclog ; Parnassia palustris, in wet moors ; Nas-
turtium terrestre, in the rivulet near the Relief manse ; Ophioglos-
sum vulgatum, in high wet pastures ; Lycopodium selaginoides, moors
in several places; Sphagnum cuspidatum. East Lochgate; Dicranum
flexuosum.) moss east of Hawkwood-hill ; Bryum attenuatum, near
the head of Unthankburn ; Merulius crassipes, on the roots of de-
cayed trees ; Helvella mitra, Bonnanhill.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Antiquities. — A Roman road can be traced for a considerable
distance in the parish. It runs along the south side of the Avon,
and passes the farm of Walesley. On the farm of Gennerhill some
shoes or sandals of Roman manufacture have been found, and also
some small coins. A few years ago some coins were also discovered
on the lands of Torfoot, near to Loudoun-hill, and on the very
line by which the Romans when crossing the Caledonian forest,
must have marched towards the west coast.
304 LANARKSHIRE.
Proprietors.— In this parish there must be nearly 200 heritors. Con-
sequently, property is very much subdivided and broken down. His
Grace the Duke of Hamilton is patron of the parish. He is superior
of nearly the whole, and proprietor of more than one-fourth of the
lands. In Hamilton of Wishaw's account of the Sheriffdom of
Lanark, it is stated, that " this baronie of Avendale did anciently -
belong to the Bairds, and thereafter came to Sinclair, and from
them to the Earle of Douglass, with whom it continued several
ages; and after his fatall forfaulture in anno 1455, it was given by
King James the 3d to Andrew Stewart, whom he created Lord
Avendale, and it continued with him and his heirs until 1538 or
thereby, that he exchanged it with Sir James Hamilton for the
baronie of Ochiltree, in the Parliament 1543, from which time it
continued with the successors of Sir James Hamilton until it was
acquired by James first of that name, Marquis of Hamilton, and
continued with his successors since." There are twelve commis-
sioners of supply in the parish. The principal properties are Nether-
field, belonging to Miss Young, Overton, Lambhill, Newton, &c.
Parochial Registers. — The following records are at present in the
possession of the kirk-session of Avondale. Minutes of the kirk-
session, Vol. i. from 1660 to 1701 ; Vol. ii. from 1734 to 1757 ;
Vol. iii. from 1779 to 1827 ; Vol. iv. from 1827 to 1834. Regis-
ters of births, Vol. i. from ] 699 to 1785 ; Vol. ii. from 1785 to 1834.
Registers of proclamation. Vol. i. from 1723 to 1755; Vol. ii. from
1775 to 1834 : A bound book containing a copy of Shawtonhill's
mortification : The Acts of the General Assembly, Vol. i. from
1638 to 1649 ; Vol. ii. from 1690 to 1715 ; Vol. iii. 1715 to 1724.
Remarkable Occurrences. — The people in this parish suffered
much from the " Bloody Claverhouse," who frequently visited this
district during the " persecuting times." He never forgot the
defeat which he experienced at Drumclog in this parish, on Sab-
bath the 1st June 1679. On that day the country people had
met for worship in great numbers, many of them armed, and de-
termined, if attacked, to defend themselves. Claverhouse rested
his men some time in the town of Strathaven, and then marched
west about six miles, when he came in sight of the Covenanters at
Drumclog, a farm belonging to the Duke of Hamilton, about two
miles to the east of Loudouri-hill. The armed part of the con-
gregation marched steadily forward to meet him, and chose their
situation with much skill. It was at the foot of a gently rising
ground, with a small rivulet in front, the banks of which were so
AVONDALE. 305
soft that the horses of the dragoons were unable to pass. In en-
deavouring to cross this little stream, the military were exposed to
the deadly aim of the country people, who from all accounts be-
haved with uncommon coolness and steadiness. Claverhouse him-
self was in imminent danger. He was the first to carry the news of
his own defeat to Glasgow. — Auchengelloch in this parish was
also famous for its conventicles ; but as it is quite inaccessible to
cavalry, it does not appear that the people ever experienced any
interruption. At this latter place, a small stone monument was
lately erected, pointing out the place, where the " remnant of the
covenant," far out in the wild and the waste, met together to hear
the glad tidings of salvation proclaimed to them.
I grieve to be under the necessity of noticing a " rising" here
of a very different description in ]819, — a rising in open re-
bellion against lawful authority, and intended against both the
altar and throne. I refer to the attempt of a few deluded persons
calling themselves " Radicals" who, with something like weapons in
their hands, marched from this place towards Glasgow, under the
command of a James Wilson, whose life was soon after forfeited to
the outraged laws of his country. It does not appear that Wilson
ever contemplated carrying matters so far as to become an open re-
bel against the laws of his country ; but he had infused a spirit into
his companions which he was unable to control. This rising was in
the utmost degree contemptible, for it comprised no more than
thirteen individuals, deluded by a false report that a general rebel-
lion had taken place in Glasgow. It has been remarked that none of
those who joined in the ludicrous crusade afterwards experienced
any thing like prosperity.
III. — POPULATION.
In 1801 the population was . 3623
1811, . . . . 4353
1821, .... 5030
1831, .... 5761
Popidation of the town in 1831, . -'/ . . . 3597
Number of families in the parish, . -.•••-•• • ., • * . 1246
chiefly employed in agriculture, . V' . 31 1
in trade, manufactures, or handicraft. 672
The number of weavers in both town and parish may be said to
amount to nearly 800. Many of the weavers are proprietors of
their own houses, and upon the whole are diligent and industrious.
There are several extensive dealers in cheese and cattle. In these
two departments, there is perhaps more business done in Strathaven
than in all Lanarkshire, with the exception of the city of Glas-
306 LANARKSHIRE.
t
gow. A branch of the Glasgow Union Bank has been establish-
ed here for some time. The inhabitants are a well-informed,
reading people.
Marriages. — In 1828 the number of proclamations in order to
marriage was 50. In 1829 it was 58; in 1830, 61 ; in 1831, 54;
in 1 832, 61 ; in 1833, 65 ; and in 1834, 56. Among the lower classes,
large gatherings at weddings are very common. There is uniform-
ly a race for the broose. When the distance from the house
of the bridegroom is considerable, the company ride on horseback ;
the bridegroom and bride, and as many as can crowd together tra-
vel generally in a chaise or coach. The broose., or contest who
shall first reach the house of the bridegroom, is then very keenly
maintained by the young men belonging to the different districts
of the parish ; and if the parties belong to different parishes, much
anxiety is displayed by each party to get before the other, and
obtain honour to their parish.
Births. — The number of births cannot be accurately stated, as
they are not regularly recorded in the parish register.
Burials. — The number of burials here in 1828 was 147. In
1829, 114; in 1830, 114; in 1831, 134; in 1832, 199. (This
season we were visited with Asiatic Cholera, of which 50 of our
people died.) In 1833, 156; and in 1834, 115.
Customs, Sfc. — Much time is lost, and no small expense unnecessa-
rily incurred, by the way in which funerals are conducted in this
parish. Great numbers of both men and women usually attend and
sit together and receive their "service" together in the barn or place
of meeting. Though warned to attend at twelve o'clock, they sel-
dom make their appearance till much later, and do not leave the
place of meeting with the body before two o'clock ; and having
perhaps to travel several miles, the interment is seldom over
till towards four o'clock. In general, three " services" are given,
two glasses of wine, and one glass of whisky or rum. A practice
prevailed at one time very generally here, but which is now begin-
ning to wear out, of collecting vast numbers of the friends and
neighbours together, to witness the " chesting," or putting the body
into the coffin. The writer of this has witnessed forty persons pre-
sent on such an occasion ; after which they generally drink tea,
perhaps in the same apartment with the coffined remains of their
departed friend ; and, except when some pious influential person
is present, it is to be feared that the conversation is not altogether
becoming the occasion.
AVONDALE. 307
In both town and parish the inhabitants are hospitable, kind, and
obliging. They are also cleanly, sober, and industrious.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — It has already been stated that the parish contains
32,000 acres : of these rather more than the half have been cul-
tivated ; and about 2000 are in undivided common.
Within the last thirty years the rental of the parish has been
doubled. Vast quantities of moss and marsh have been reclaim-
ed, and are now yielding most abundant crops. The Strath-
aven moss, consisting of about 200 acres, and which, little more
than half a century ago, was perfectly worthless, is now drained
and improved, and is perhaps more productive, than any land
in the parish. Some of it is let as high as L. 4 an acre. Through-
out the whole parish, the farmers are actively and extensive-
ly engaged in fur draining their lands. They in general open
a drain in every furrow, which they fill up to a certain depth with
stones ; and as there is plenty of whinstone in every district of the
parish, this process may be carried on to any extent, and to very
great advantage. The rental of the parish might be increased to
a very great amount.
This is a pastoral district, and the dairy produce is what the
farmers chiefly depend upon for the payment of their rents. The
Dunlop cheese is made here as good as in any part of Scot-
land. In many parts of the parish little more land is cultivated
than seems necessary for the support of the cattle. The lands, from
one end of the parish to the other, are very favourable for pasture.
There are, however, excellent crops of oats raised everywhere,—
bear or big, barley, and on some farms to the east of Strathaven,
excellent wheat. Great quantities of potatoes are also planted,
which are chiefly disposed of to the farmers in the low country for
seed. Though the soil be peculiarly adapted for turnips, yet they
are not extensively cultivated ; and in a district where so many
cattle are reared, and so much food required, it seems not a little
strange that this should be the case.
Rent of Land. — In the lower parts of the parish, and in the vici-
nity of the town of Strathaven, the lands are well cultivated, and very
productive. Some of them sold during the war as high as L.I 40 an acre
for cultivation. Even now, L. 100 and L. 105 an acre can be ob-
tained for land in the immediate neighbourhood of the town. There,
the annual rent of land is about L. 4 an acre ; at a distance from
the town, the rent falls much lower.
•f-
308 LANARKSHIRE.
The gross produce of the parish I am unable to ascertain with
accuracy.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Roads, Sfc. — In every part of the parish the roads are excellent
and kept in good repair. It is greatly in favour of Avondale that
two turnpike roads, the one leading to Ayr, and the other to Muir-
kirk, run nearly parallel to one another from the town of Strath-
aven to the western extremity of the parish, the one on the north
and the other on the south side of the Avon. The other roads
kept by the parish statute labour extend to perhaps sixty miles,
and cost the parish, including every thing, about L. 300 a year.
There are about 30 bridges over the different rivulets in the parish,
but in general they are too narrow. The road commissioners em-
ploy a clerk, treasurer, and overseer, (who is in general the same
person) at the very moderate salary of L. 15 a year. He super-
intends all their road operations, and has improved the bridges and
lines of communication very much.
Town of Strathaven. — Strathaven was erected into a burgh of
barony in 1450. It had an extensive common, which has now all
become private property. There is a weekly market, besides a great
many annual fairs. It is ruled by a baron bailie, who is appointed
by the Duke of Hamilton. For some years past the town has been
deprived of this functionary, or if there be a person appointed to
that situation, he is non-resident. The population of the parish
of Avondale and town of Strathaven may be stated now to be
6000. The population of the town in 1781 was 1444. In 1791
it had increased to 1610, and in 1831 to 3000; and at present it
may be rated at 4000.
Strathaven lies prettily at the end of a small ridge of eminen-
ces on the banks of the little stream of Pomilion, which runs through
it, and divides it nearly into two equal parts, and contributes greatly
to its cleanliness and comfort. It has the appearance of being a very
old town. The houses in the old part of it are very much crowd-
ed together, and the streets are narrow and irregularly built, It
is built in the immediate vicinity of the castle, which is now in
ruins. No doubt the cause of the narrowness of the streets, and
the crowding of the houses so much together, was, that the inha-
bitants wished to be under the protection of the castle. Though
now in ruins, the castle is still a beautiful feature in our landscape. It
is said to have been built by Andrew Stewart, grandson of Murdoch
Dukeof Albany, andmusthavebeenaplace of considerable strength.
AVONDALE. 309
It stands on a rocky eminence on the banks of the little stream
of Pomilion, whose waters flow round the greater part of it. In for-
mer times it is highly probable that it was entirely surrounded by this
stream, and that the approach to it was by a drawbridge.* Of late
years, some excellent houses have been built, and new broad streets
formed in the town. A number of neat small villas have been erect-
ed by some of the wealthier citizens in the neighbourhood. A
few years ago, a number of the inhabitants formed themselves into
a company to supply the town with gas, which seems to be suc-
ceeding well. Many of the private houses, and almost all the shops
are lighted with gas ; and it is expected that all the streets will
soon be lighted in the same manner.
Means of Communication.— -There is a post-office here, and a
runner to Hamilton every morning at nine o'clock. There is a
very ready communication with Edinburgh, Glasgow, Ayr, and
Hamilton every day. The improvement in this respect must ap-
pear very striking to the old inhabitants. About sixteen years ago,
there was not even a caravan to Glasgow, and there was no inter-
course with either Edinburgh or Glasgow, but by a carrier's cart,
or on horseback, or by sending to Hamilton for a post-chaise.
Since that time the road between Edinburgh and Ayr by the Ga-
rion Bridge has been opened, so that now we have not only coaches
to all these places every day (except Sunday) but also post-horses
and chaises, gigs, and cars in abundance.
Markets, Sfc. — There are excellent markets here of all kinds.
Butcher-meat can be got at all times only little (if at all) inferior to
that of Glasgow. In the town there are three butchers, who deal
extensively, and seven bakers, all of whom seem well employed.
There is also a brewery. We have a regular market every Thurs-
day, which is well attended, and much business done. The coun-
try people have a very bad practice of not coming to market till
four or five, or perhaps six o'clock in the evening. They seem to
think that by this they gain a day's work, but they must in conse-
quence be often late in returning to their families. It is strange x/^
that though there are here weekly markets, and a great number
of fairs, there are no markets or times fixed for hiring servants, —
* It is said that the late Duchess Anne of Hamilton, commonly known by the
name of the good Duchess, took refuge here during the usurpation of Cromwell, and
never forgot the kindness which she experienced from her tenants and vassals in these
days of her distress. She died in 1716. After this the Castle of Avondale fell very ra-
pidly into decay. No attention seems to have been paid to it ; and it is now fast
mouldering away.
LANARK. X
310 LANARKSHIRE.
which occasions not a little inconvenience both to masters and ser-
vants, as they have to travel either to Douglas or Glasgow, and
thus incur both much expense and fatigue.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church was erected in 1772,
and stands on the west side of the town of Strathaven. It for-
merly stood in the church-yard, a little to the east of the castle,
one of the most beautiful situations in the place. It says little
for the taste of the heritors of formers days, that they permitted it
to be moved to its present site. Even when first built, it was far
too small for the inhabitants ; and that no attention was paid to the
application of the people of Strathaven to have it enlarged, which
they offered to do in part at their own expense, evinced a very
improper spirit on the part of the heritors. After it was built,
it remained unseated for considerably more than twenty years ;
and after it was seated, more than one law-suit before the Su-
preme Court took place respecting the division of the seats. It
is seated to contain about 800 sitters, so that there is here
a grievous deficiency of church accommodation. The 4000 in-
habitants of the town have a legal title to only 24 sittings in
the parish church. About two-thirds of the country population,
and a great number in the town, profess to belong to the Esta-
blished Church ; but of course there must be among these many
who do not attend public worship; and on inquiring the cause
of absence, they meet us daily with the unanswerable reply, " we have
no seat/' In consequence of the deficiency of accommodation in
the present church, and the unkind manner in which they had been
used by the then heritors, the inhabitants erected the present Re-
lief meeting-house, to contain about 900. There is also a place
of worship here connected with the United Secession body seated
for fully 60 0. The usual attendance at the first of these places
is said to be 1000, and at the latter 350. The parish church is
well attended. Many of the country people come from the distance
of 6, 7, 8, and some of them nearly 9 miles. Those who are most
distant are very seldom absent, and scarcely have I ever heard a
complaint seriously made on account of their distance from church.
Parochial Visitations. — Ever since the Reformation, the mini-
sters of Avondale have been in the habit of visiting and catechis-
ing the people every year. That good practice is still kept up.
The diets of examination in the country are remarkably well at-
tended ; those in the town not so well ; and here also the visits
must be less frequent.
A VON DALE. 311
The present manse was built about twenty years ago. It is an
excellent house, and is in a good state of repair. It was the pri-
vate property of the former minister. After his death, the house
and about six acres of land were bought by the heritors, and an
excambion took place of the old manse, and that part of the glebe
which lay on the side of the great road to Ayr near the church,
and the present manse and lands adjoining. This transaction was
agreeable and beneficial to all parties. It improved the living,,
and turned out well for the heritors. The glebe consists of about 7|
acres. There does not appear to be any grass\ glebe. The pre-
sent glebe was augmented to its present size by the repeated ex-
cambions which have taken place. The stipend is fixed at 19 chal-
ders, half meal, half barley, and L. 10 of communion elements.
There are also L. 5 annually paid by the Duke of Hamilton, being
a mortification by the late Duchess Anne. The amount of stipend
for crop 1884 was L. 281, 3s. 4d. On account of the number of
heritors, and the difficulty of collecting the stipend, the present
minister has to employ a factor.
There is a catechist here, or a preacher of the Gospel, who as-
sists the parish minister. He preaches one-half of the year, visits
the sick, and catechises the parish. He is appointed by the noble
family of Hamilton, who pay him, as fixed by the late good Duchess
Anne, the annual sum of 500 merks.
Education. — The parish schoolmaster has the maximum salary,
and a good house and garden. His fees may amount to L. 25
per annum. Many good scholars have been taught here. Alto-
gether there are 13 schools in the parish, and the number attend-
ing them at last annual examination was somewhat under 600.
There are also several evening schools and Sabbath schools well
attended. There is scarcely any child above six years of age
unable to read. If any, the fault must lie with the parents, as
the schoolmaster, most generously, is willing to teach them gratis,
where the parents are poor, and the parish supplies the ordinary
school books. The master keeps borders. The branches taught
in the school are, Latin, Greek, English, English grammar, and
writing, arithmetic, geography, mensuration, and mathematics.
There is a small portion of land attached to the school at Gil-
mourton, with a schoolmaster's house and school-room ; and a le-
gacy of fifteen shillings a-year was lately left to the small school
at Barnock, near Peelhill. These are the only schools that have
312 LANARKSHIRE.
any thing like an endowment. The others are kept by persons at
their own risk.
Libraries. — There is a good library, instituted in 1809, and con-
taining from 1100 to 1200 volumes. There are also some smaller
libraries, intended chiefly for the young persons attending the Sab-
bath schools.
Inns, fyc. — In the town of Strathaven there are excellent inns, and
the very best accommodation and attendance ; at the same time, it is
much to be lamented that so many persons should be licensed to sell
spirituous liquors. The certificate of the clergyman is not essen-
tial, in order to obtain a license ; and the authorities have occa-
sionally been less scrupulous than they ought to have been in
granting it. In the town of Strathaven alone, no fewer than
thirty-five persons are licensed to sell spirituous liquors.
Charitable and other Institutions. — A savings bank was com-
menced here fully twenty years ago ; but, as it did not meet with
proper encouragement, it was given up. In all probability this was
owing to the preference given by the people to enter Friendly So-
cieties. There are here five of these ; some of them have been in
existence for 100 years. At first, these societies prospered exceed-
ingly, and did much good ; afterwards, they were not so prosper-
ous ; but they are now put on a better footing, and are likely to do
well.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons receiving
parochial aid has for some years past been rather on the increase.
The number on the roll at August 1834 was 98. They were paid
during the year the sum of L. 510; L. 50, besides, were dis-
tributed as occasional aids to about forty poor persons not on the
roll. Our poor's assessment at present is greatly increased in con-
sequence of several of our paupers being in a state of derangement.
One of them is boarded in the Lunatic Asylum of Glasgow ; and
some of the others are kept by friends in the parish, at a very high
weekly allowance. The funds necessary for the support of the poor
are made up by the annual interest of mortifications, (amounting
to L. 800,) which yield at present L. 32 a-year, and a compulsory
assessment; the one-half of which assessment is raised from the
heritors, according to the valued rent of their lands ; and the other
half from the householders, (including resident heritors,) in pro-
portion to their means and substance. The average annual collec-
tion at the church door is under L. 14.
AVONDALE. 313
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
It seems not a little remarkable that no public works or mills
have been erected at Strathaven or in its neighbourhood. Abun-
dance of water to drive machinery might be obtained at a trifling ex-
pense. An embankment might be erected at Hapton's Craigs for
perhaps less than L. 100, which might supply any number of mills
every day of the year. The excellence of the roads and the ready
communication with Glasgow and the Clyde, as well as the healthi-
ness of the situation, are all most favourable for such undertakings.
I am of opinion that Strathaven is only in its infancy ; and that
from its locality, and from the industry and enterprise of its inha-
bitants, it is likely to rise speedily into importance.
Enclosures and plantations would improve our scenery exceeding-
ly. This is all we require to render the place really beautiful.
Many of the smaller heritors have planted to a considerable extent
of late, and are still laudably persevering in their operations. But,
in general, their belts are too narrow, and they do not seem to plant
the best kind of trees for our district. They chiefly put in the larch
and the Scotch fir, which do well for a time, but are not long lived.
Let these be mixed with hard wood, and generations to come will
be benefited by them. The Duke of Hamilton has done much of late,
and is still doing much, in draining his lands, and putting in hedge-
rows along the sides of the great roads to Ayr and Muirkirk, and
in some of the cross fences between his several farms : it would
lay Avondale under unspeakable obligations, if his Grace would
proceed a little farther, and give us broad belts of planting. In a
few years, he or his family would receive an ample return in the
improvement of the scenery, the increase of their rental, and tho
gratitude of their tenants.
July 1835.
PARISH OF BLANTYRE.
PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. JAMES ANDERSON, MINISTER.*
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — THE name of this parish is probably derived from the
Gaelic, Bla'-an-tir, a warm retreat, — which is perfectly descriptive
of the site of the village of Blantyre, and more or less of the whole
district.
Extent, Boundaries. — The parish of Blantyre is a long stripe of
rather low-lying land, stretching nearly in a direct line from north
to south. From Haugh-head on the Clyde, near Daldowie in the
north, to the burn between Crottangram and East Crutherland in
the south, it is exactly 6 miles and 2 furlongs in length. The
breadth is very variable : the narrowest part at Blantyre Craig,
near the Priory, is about 3 furlongs; the widest part between Both-
well Bridge on the east, and Greenhall on the west, 2 J miles ; the
average breadth is about 1 mile. It is bounded by the parish of
Glasford on the south ; Hamilton and Bothwell on the east ; Old
Monkland on the north; and Cambuslang and Kilbride on the
west. It contains 6.50 squsfre miles, 3307 Scots acres, and 41 70.732
imperial acres. It is commonly divided into 24 ploughgates, of
from 80 to 100 acres each.
Climate. — The climate is nearly the same as in the neighbouring
parishes ; and the average quantity of rain falling has been well as-
certained both by rain-gages kept in this parish, and in other
places immediately on its border. From a rain-gage kept by
R. D. Alston, Esq. of Auchinraith, we have the following results :
From April 1, 1833, to March 31, 1834, 35T4n inches; from
March 31, 1834, to April 1, 1835, 26 T\ inches. During the
months of April, May, June, and July of this year, we have 6T7S in-
ches. As compared with a rain-gage kept at Castle Toward, the
rain falling here is nearly one-half less.
* Drawn up by the Rev. William Patrick, and Mr George Miller, Blantyre
Works.
BLANTYRE. 315
Hydrography. — The principal streams in the district are the
Clyde and the Calder. The Clyde enters this parish a little be-
low Bothwell Bridge, and forms the boundary between it and Both -
well for upwards of three miles. At the above point, it seems at
some former period to have forced its way through the opposing
sandstone rocks, which here nearly approximate each other. At
the ferry-boat at Blantyre works, the Clyde is 79 yards broad,
and immediately opposite the works, 104 yards. Its average
velocity is from one to three miles per hour. On 25th July,
the thermometer being 76° in the shade, its temperature was
68° of Fahrenheit. The Clyde is here a majestic river, of
considerable depth, and of a darkish colour, gliding smoothly
and silently along between the lofty wooded banks and beau-
tiful and richly adorned undulating fields of Bothwell and Blan-
tyre. Immediately below Bothwell Bridge, the banks present a
thin sprinkling of wood, with occasional orchards. About a mile
and a-half farther down, in a snug retreat, almost concealed by the
rising grounds on either side, the lofty walls of Blantyre works ap-
pear; where a busy population, and the rushing noise of machinery,
contrast strangely with the silence and repose of the surrounding
scenery, and seem as if intended to bring into competition the works
of nature and of art. The lofty woods of Bothwell on the east,
and of Blantyre on the west, with the magnificent red walls and
circular towers of the old castle of Bothwell, and the shattered
remains of Blantyre priory on the opposite side, on the summit of
a lofty rock, add greatly to the beauty of the scenery a little far-
ther on. The banks begin to decline before they reach Daldowie,
and the river leaves the parish amidst fertile fields and wide ex-
panding haughs. The whole, on a summer day, when the sun is
shining, is inexpressibly beautiful. The Calder rises in Elrig Muir
in Kilbride, and is at first called Park-burn, afterwards Calder water,
and at length Rotten Calder. It enters this parish at the point
where it is joined by Rottenburn, and, except about a mile at the
place where the Basket ironstone mines, &c. come in, forms the
western boundary till it falls into the Clyde in the north, at Turn-
wheel, near Daldowie. There are several falls or cascades in its
course, and its banks are all along richly and romantically wooded.
It may be from sixty to eighty feet wide, and runs on a shallow
gravelly bed, and not unfrequently on the bare rock. — There are
other three streams in the parish, besides their feeders. The Red
burn rises in the farm of Park, in the west, and falls into the Clyde
316 LANARKSHIRE.
a little below Bothwell Bridge. A second burn rises at Shott, a
little to the south-west of the manse, and a third at Newmains, —
both falling into the Clyde.
The parish is in general well supplied with water. At Blantyre
works, there is a well 42 fathoms deep, supplied with so copious
a spring, that an unbroken and never-failing stream of water gushes
through a pipe at the surface of the earth summer and winter. This
pipe discharges 20 gallons of water per minute ; 1200 in an hour ;
and the enormous quantity of 28,800 gallons in twenty-four hours.
There is a mineral spring at Park, on the west side of the parish,
which has long been held in high repute for sore eyes, scorbutic
disorders, and a variety of other complaints. The water is sul-
phureous or hepatic, and tastes like rotten eggs. Besides sulphur,
it contains a considerable quantity of the muriate and sulphate of
lime. When taken at the well it is very strong; but when carried
far, if not well-corked, the hepatic gas evaporates so completely,
as to render it scarcely distinguishable from common spring water.
Many years ago, when sea-bathing and steam-boats were less fre-
quent than at present, this well was resorted to by many respect-
able families from Glasgow and its neighbourhood. Several other
hepatic springs appear on the banks of the Calder, particularly one
at Long Calderwood, on the outskirts of this parish, on the lands
which formerly belonged to Dr John Hunter of London. Hard or
mineral water is chiefly found where coal, iron, and lime prevail ;
and calcareous and chalybeate springs are also abundant. The
average temperature of the best springs here is about 50°.
Geology and Mineralogy. — The geognosy of the parish of Blan-
tyre is similar to that of other neighbouring parishes. Owing to the
break in the coal formation, which occurs between Hamilton and
Quarter, none of the principal seams of coal are wrought for many
miles to the north of that particular spot. Coal has, however, been
wrought on a small scale at Calderside and Rottenburn ; but there
are only some thin seams, found beneath the seventh bed of coal,
or sour-milk coal, as it is termed by the miners, all of a lean qua-
lity, and generally much interlaced with laminae of stone, blaes,
and shiver. As a general rule it may be remarked, that the coal is
always beneath the freestone, and the limestone beneath the seventh
seam of coal, or about 73 fathoms below the upper coal. In this part
of the country, however, the limestone generally comes to the sur-
face after the other metals above it run out. Limestonejs now wrought
at Auchentiber, towards the upper or southern end of the parish.
BLANTYRE. 317
There are two seams, one about 20 inches thick, and a second 3
feet, or 3^ feet thick. The space between these seams is filled
up with 18 or 20 inches of blaes or pullet, full of shells and other
organic remains. The upper seam is about 28 feet from the sur-
face. It is a dark brown limestone, excellent for the mason and agri-
culturist, but too coarse for plaster. Limestone has also been wrought
on a small scale at Calderside. Ironstone abounds in this parish.
At Blackcraig, near Calderwood, on the borders of the parish,
seventeen seams of ironstone may be counted, the one above the
other; a sight, it is believed, not to be met with anywhere else in
the world. Ironstone is wrought in the Basket mines, the mouths
of which are in Kilbride ; but the beds of minerals run into the
parish of Blantyre. The upper seam, called No. 1, consists of
a small band about 6 inches thick. No. 2 is about 7 inches thick,
and, like all the other seams, lies in small bands or joints like flags
of pavement. Between this and the upper band the seams of
limestone above alluded to occur, and about 10 feet of blaes
(slate clay and bituminous shale,) full of ironstone balls. No. 3
is from 4 to 14 inches thick; — its average thickness may be
about 10 inches. There is a good seam of balls between this
seam and No. 2, and from 4 to 6 feet of blaes. Beneath
No. 3 there is a seam called the Lunker band, which consists of
great balls lying in no regular position. But the richest seam of
all is that called the Whitestone, 25 fathoms below No. 3 ; like it,
this seam lies in joints, and is of the same thickness. Clay dikes
intersect the mines in different directions, which always throw the
metals up or down, in proportion to their thickness. A white sort
of substance, like cranreuch or hoar-frost, which almost melts
away when grasped in the hand, is also occasionally found adher-
ing to the roof and sides of the mines. This is an efflorescence of
alumina, and is found in various parts of Europe in aluminous schist.
The section of rocks seen at Calderside consists, first, of the upper
or anvil band of limestone, about 14 inches thick. It derives its
name from the lime rock being dislocated throughout, and appa-
rently weather worn, so as to form blocks resembling a blacksmith's
anvil, and some of them are not unlike the skeleton of a horse's
head. These are probably some of the figured stones alluded to
in the last Statistical Account. Below this band, there is a stratum
of 10 feet of blaes (slate clay and bituminous shale) ; this is suc-
ceeded by the middle seam of limestone 2 feet thick, beneath which
is 3 feet of blaes, (slate clay and bituminous shale,) overlaying
318 LANARKSHIRE.
the under bed of limestone, which is four feet thick There are
a great many petrifactions in the blaes, of which hundreds may
be picked up. In the waste beside the mines where the blaes
lies mouldering away under the influence of the sun and air, they
occur in myriads, and are carried away in great numbers by the
curious. These organic forms belong principally to the Coral-
loides, such as Astroitae, Millepores, Escharse ; Cornu Ammonis,
&c. also occur. Entrochi are also in abundance, and are here
termed limestone beads. When joined together, so as to as-
sume a lengthened circular form, they are called Entrochi ; when
found separately, as they generally are, they are called Trochitse.
Associated with the above beds, there are about twelve inches
of a dark -coloured ferruginous stone containing just so much lime
as to make it valuable for Roman cement. It was analyzed some
time ago, and the result proved so satisfactory as to induce a scien-
tific gentleman in the neighbourhood to commence the manufac-
ture of this cement, which is said to be superior to any produced
in England. This stone, when submitted to the fire, falls down
like gray ill-burned limestone. Not far from Calderside, a great
curiosity is to be seen in the shape of part of a tree rising out of
the bed of the river completely silicified. The tree inclines to the
bank which the Calder has laid bare. Part of the stem only re-
mains in an upright growing position, from which proceed two
root-shoots dipping into the bed of the stream, each from 13 to
14 inches in diameter. The tree does not belong to the palm
family, as is often the case in such instances, but appears to have
been an elm or ash. From a specimen carefully detached, it seems
to be formed of a close-grained whitish sandstone, containing small
specks of mica, and pretty closely dotted with minute spots of
oxide of iron, about the size of needle points. Some fields adjacent
to the church are of a fine rich loam. From the church to the Clyde,
towards the north-east, the soil is in general a strong deep clay ; and
when properly cultivated is exceedingly fertile. At the northern
extremity, which is surrounded by the Clyde, and where the banks
become low, there is a flat which consists chiefly of a sandy soil.
From the church, towards the south end of the parish, the soil is
clay, but more light and free than in the lower part, and is in ge-
neral of a very poor quality. In advancing farther from the church,
towards the southern extremity, which is the highest land in the
parish, the soil becomes gradually more of a mossy nature, and at
last terminates in a deep peat moss.
15LANTYRE. 319
Zoology. — About three years ago a new fly appeared in this and
some neighbouring1 parishes, which has become the terror of eques-
trians, and of the groom and hostler, on account of the severe wounds
it inflicts on the horse, making him plunge and start, and often fly
off at full gallop in spite of all the exertions of the rider to restrain
him. It is of the dipterous order, and very much resembles the
common house-fly. The wings are marked with iridescent spots,
and the back of the abdomen is of a light brownish colour. It is ex-
tremely vivacious, and when caught is always full of blood. It is
probably the Stomoxys cakitrans of Fabricius. In this district it
is called the cholera or new horse-fly, having first appeared in
the year when the above disease began to commit its frightful
ravages.*
Botany. — In the Clyde, that rare and elegant plant Senecio
Saracenicus, may be seen growing in great profusion along with
Convolvulus sepium, Tanacetum. vulgare, &c. Melica uniflora
and Gagea lutea are found in the woods on the Clyde ; Verbascum
thapsus at Calderwood ; Vinca major et minor, Geranium phceum,
Aquilegia vulgaris. Veronica montana, Helleborus viridis, Draba
hirsutum, and Ophrys ovata, at Blantyre priory. Paris quadri-
folia has been found on the banks a little above Calderwood, and
Malva sylvestris is common in the woods about Crossbasket.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
The barony of Blantyre belonged anciently to the Dunbars of
Enteckin. At the time of the Reformation, the Priory of Blan-
tyre, like other religious establishments, was suppressed, and the
benefice, which was but small, given by James VI. to Walter Stew-
art, son to the Laird of Minto, one of his servants, and treasurer of
Scotland. He was first commendator of the priory, and in 1606
was created Lord Blantyre. The barony itself was purchased by
the first Lord Blantyre, and was almost all feued out in small par-
cels, which still hold of his descendants. The land in this parish
is now distributed among forty-six heritors. The rental of the
highest is L. 300, and of the lowest L. 5 per annum.
Eminent Men. — The late John Miller, Esq., Professor of Law
in the University of Glasgow, had his residence at Millheugh in
this parish, and is buried in the churchyard at Blantyre. James
Hutton of Calderbank, Thomas M'Call of Craighead, and R. D.
Alston of Auchinraith, have also handsome country seats.
* For a catalogue of the birds and other animals in this parish, see the account of
the parish of Hamilton.
320 LANARKSHIRE.
Parochial Registers. — The parochial register seems to be entire
from the year 1667.
Antiquities. — The principal antiquity in the parish worthy of no-
tice is the ruins of Blantyre Priory. These are situated on a lofty
rock on the banks of the Clyde, exactly opposite the ruins of
Bothwell Castle. Both it and the castle are built of a fine-grain-
ed redrcoloured sandstone rock, like that out of which Cadzow
Castle at Hamilton has been constructed. The priory is now
almost entirely fallen into decay, only one vault remaining entire,
a couple of gables, with a fire-place, and part of the outer walls.
It seems, however, to have been the occasional residence of Lord
Blantyre so late as the time of Hamilton of Wishaw, who wrote
his " Description of the Sheriffdom of Lanark" about the begin-
ning of last century. Little account can now be given of the
origin and history of this establishment. It seems to, have been
a cell of the Abbacy of Jedburgh,* (and founded by Alexander II.)
to which these monks generally retired in the time of war with the
English. It appears that Friar Walter of Blantyre was one of
the Scotch commissioners appointed to negotiate the ransom of
King David Bruce, taken prisoner in the battle of Durham 1346.
Frere William, Prior of Blantyre, is a subscriber to Ragman's Roll.
Walter Stewart, Commendator of this place, was Lord Privy Seal
in the year 1595, and shortly after treasurer, upon the Master of
Glammis' dismission. This is the same who was afterwards creat-
ed Lord Blantyre.
It is mentioned in the last Statistical Account of this parish, that
urns have been dug up at different times in several parts of the parish;
and that some of them were found in a large heap of stones. In the
centre of the heap, square stones were placed so as to form a kind of
chest, and the urns were placed within it. They contained a kind of
unctuous earthy substance, and some remains of bones were scat-
tered around them. " Strong impressions of fire were also evident
on many of the stones. About three years ago, a stone coffin of
the above description, with an urn standing in one corner of it,
was turned up at Shott, near the parish church. A skull almost
entire was found in it, and nearly the whole of the teeth are in
good preservation. The urn was of baked earth, seemingly only
sun-dried, five and a-half inches high, and the same across the
* Spottiswoode says it was a cell of Holyroodhouse. In Bagimont's Roll it was
only taxed L. 6, 13s. 4d. The Archbishop of Glasgow latterly presented the Prior
to his living.
3
BLANTYRE. 321
mouth. It was partially ornamented with rude impressions made
on the clay when soft. Fragments of six larger urns, more highly
ornamented, and better burned, were found in other parts of the
field. This field is now called Arches or Archer's Croft, Stone
coffins have also been found at Lawhill, Greenhall, &c. There is
a singular conical hill at Calderside, which goes by the name of
the Camp Know. It is 600 feet in circumference, and was an-
ciently surrounded by a ditch. Near the same spot, a subterranean
structure made of flags like the sole of an oven, was lately dis-
covered.
III. — POPULATION.
Population in 1755, - - 496
1801, - - 1751
1811, .. - 2092
1821, - -•'•> * 2630
1831, - - 3000
By a census taken of the landward part of the parish about three
years ago, (excluding Blantyre works,) it appears that in the vil-
lage of Blantyre there were 50 families and 255 individuals. A
hundred of these were under fifteen years of age. In Old Place
and Hunthill there were 23 families and 112 individuals, of whom
43 were under fifteen years of age. Barnhill contained 43 families
and 213 individuals, of whom 92 were under fifteen. There were
24 families in Auchinraith, and 106 individuals, 52 of whom were
under fifteen. In the country part of the parish, there were 593
souls, of whom 285 were males and 308 females ; about 260 of
these were under fifteen years of age. The whole population of
the rural district, including villages, was 1279 souls, of whom 624
were males, and 655 females.
The proclamations of marriage in 1832 were 30 The births in 1832 were 61
in 1833 32 in 1833 70
in 1834 23 in 1834 63
Average, 28 Average, 64
No register of deaths has. been kept. The number of proprie-
tors of land of L. 50 and upwards is 28. Number of families by
last census, 514.
Number of families chiefly employed in agriculture, 49
employed in trade, manufactures, and handicraft, 326
IV — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — The agriculture here is of a mixed sort, partly
grain, and partly dairy. The ground is nearly all arable; not
more than 500 acres remaining constantly in waste or in pasture.
Blantyre moor was anciently a common, but by an agreement be-
322 LANARKSHIRE.
tween Lord Blantyre and his vassals it was subdivided and great-
ly improved. The peat on this moor becoming dry and unfit for
use, it was exchanged for Edge moss about fifty years ago, where
turf or peat for fuel is cut when required. There are four or five
acres of undivided common at Blantyre farm, and a few other small
patches scattered in different parts of the parish. The parish in
general is richly and tastefully wooded, but no plantations of great
extent occur.
Rent of Land. — The average rent of land per acre is L. 1 ; but
some pieces of land let as high as L. 4 or L. 5 per acre. The
rental of the parish is L. 2579.
Husbandry. — Very few sheep are kept, and the cows are almost en-
tirely of the Ayrshire breed. The general duration of leases is nine-
teen years, but as most of the farmers have long tacks or feus of their
lands, they are generally considered as lairds, and few leases of the
above description, or to so large an amount, occur. Draining has
been practised here to a great extent, and one individual has of
late laid down 2500 tons of stones for that purpose. The farm
houses in general are superior to those in the neighbouring pa-
rishes. About 96 horses are kept in the parish ; 450 cows ; and
250 pigs.
Produce. — Average gross amount of raw produce raised in the
parish :
Produce of grain, hay, potatoes, &c. . L. 4127
Pasture, &c. . 13-50
All other produce, . Vr . 2260
Total L. 7737
Manufactures — Blantyre Mills. — The first mill at these works
was erected in the year 1785, by the late Mr David Dale and his
partner, Mr James Monteith, for the spinning of that kind of cot-
ton yarn usually denominated water-twist. In 1791, another mill
was erected for the spinning of mule-twist, both of which are driven
by water power from the Clyde. The number of workers employ-
ed in the spinning-mills is 458, and the total number of spindles
in the mule and water-twist mills is 30,000. In the year 1813, a
weaving factory was built containing 463 looms,* which is partly
driven by water and partly by steam power. At present, an ex-
tension of the looms is going forward, which will increase the num-
ber to between 500 and 600. The hours for the mill workers,
five days in the week, are from six o'clock in the morning, till
* The numher of hand-loom weavers in the parish is 128.
4
BLANTYRE. 323
a quarter from eight in the evening, forty-five minutes being allowed
for breakfast and one hour for dinner. On Saturday the workers
only remain nine hours in the mill, — making in whole sixty-nine
working hours in the week.*
In addition to spinning and weaving, another branch of business
has been carried on at these works for the last forty years, namely,
the dyeing of Adrianople or Turkey red upon cotton yarn. It
was the second work of the kind erected in Scotland, and the co-
lours have long been celebrated for their richness and perma-
nency.
The total number of males employed at all the works is 362 ;
the number of females 553. The water power is estimated at 150
horse, the steam at 60, — total, 210 horse power.
The village for the workers is contiguous to the works, and is
pleasantly situated on a rising ground which overlooks the Clyde.
The company, Messrs Henry Monteith and Company, erected a cha-
pel seven years ago in connection with the church of Scotland, suffi-
cient to accommodate 400 sitters. A clergyman was appointed
the following year, one-half of whose stipend is paid by the com-
pany, the other half by the sitters. The secular affairs of the
chapel are conducted by a committee chosen annually, one-half of
whom are Dissenters, the other half belonging to the Established
church. The chapel is so arranged that during the week it is em-
ployed as a school-house. The schoolmaster is appointed by the
company with a salary of L. 20, along with a free house and gar-
den. The rate of wages is regulated by the company. The ave-
rage number of day-scholars is 136, and the average number of those
at the evening class is 56.
The rapid increase of the population in this parish is entirely
owing to the mills.
The people at these works are in general as healthy as their
neighbours in other parts of the parish, many of them attaining a
great age. This month, one of the mechanics died aged ninety-
four. There is an overseer at present in the service of the com-
pany, seventy-seven years of age, who has been employed for-
ty-eight years within the walls of the mill. There are several
others between eighty and ninety who still enjoy good health,
and not a few between seventy and eighty, some of whom are fol-
lowing their usual avocations. Many workers are now employed
who have been upwards of forty years in the service of the com-
* The hours are regulated in terms of the late Factory Act.
324 LANARKSHIRE.
pany. As a class, it must be confessed that they are much more
healthy than the mill-workers in large towns.
In general, the working people marry young, and in all cases where
any degree of care is exercised they live very comfortably. Many of
them have brought up large and respectable families. The village
is kept clean and neat ; to insure which, the company provide both
watchmen and scavengers. With regard to the habits of the people
they may be said to be cleanly. To encourage this desirable ob-
ject, the company built a public washing-house several years ago,
to which the householders have access in rotation ; and a large
bleaching green on the banks of the river, with a good exposure,
capable of accommodating ten times the amount of the population,
has also been provided. The village is supplied by means of force
pumps at the works, with both soft and hard water. The ordinary
food of the workers is much better than that of the agricultural la-
bourers in the neighbourhood. A considerable quantity of butcher's
meat is consumed every week in the village. There are also seve-
ral shops or stores from which the people derive the advantage of
competition and low prices.
There has been a considerable library established among the
workers for several years past, and measures have now been taken
for extending it considerably. A funeral society was established
fourteen years ago. Among other provisions on the death of a mem-
ber or his wife, the heirs receive L. 4, and for a member's child
L. 2, to defray funeral expenses. There is also a poors' fund for the
sick and destitute, to which the company contribute L. 21 annually.
The management is vested in the workers, who elect new mana-
gers every six months. The average number obtaining relief is 16.
The average sum expended annually is L. 75. An association for
religious purposes was instituted in 1822. The average annual
amount that has been voted to sundry societies at the yearly gene-
ral meetings has been, for the last ten years, upwards of L.20. The
Blantyre Works Temperance Society was formed in 1830, since
which period it has had at an average from 60 to 70 members.
The population of the village at present is, males, . 743
females, . 1078
Total, . 1821
Belonging to the Established Church, . 1041
Dissenters, . i - 592
Episcopalians, .••'.*. 39
Roman Catholics, . 149
Any worker known to be guilty of irregularities of moral conduct
is instantly discharged, and poaching game or salmon meets with
BLANTYRE. 325
the same punishment. The general character of the population
is moral, and in many instances strictly religious. Fighting or
brawls in the village are unknown. It cannot be said they are
much given to the discussion of politics, — though several newspa-
pers come to the village. Living in one of the " fairy neuks" of
creation, religious and moral, well fed and clothed, and not over-
wrought, they seem peculiarly happy, as they ought to be.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
The village of Blantyre, where the church and manse stand, is
beautifully situated in a rich level country overtopped with tall trees,
many of them of great age and beauty. It is 3 miles from Hamil-
ten, 4 from Kilbride, 7 from Eaglesham, and 8 miles and 2 fur-
longs from Glasgow. There are in the parish about 3 miles of
turnpike road, and 20 miles of parish roads, which are always
kept in excellent repair.
Ecclesiastical State. — The church was built in 1793, and is in
pretty good repair. It affords accommodation for 360 sitters ; but
if galleries were erected it could accommodate 200 more. The
chapel at the mills affords accommodation for 400 sitters. The
manse was built in 1773, and underwent a thorough repair in 1823.
It is now one of the best manses in Scotland. The glebe consists
of about twelve acres, four at the manse, and eight acres at Blan-
tyre moor. The former is worth L. 2, 10s., and the latter worth
L.I per acre. The stipend is L. 116, 18s. 7j|d. in money, 86
bolls, 1 firlot, 1 peck, \^ lippie of meal, and 10 bolls, 3 firlots,
IJlippie of barley, including communion elements. The average
number of communicants is 420, of whom 144 are heads of fa-
milies. About L. 10 are usually drawn at the church door at
the time of the sacrament, which is distributed in the usual way
among the aged and infirm. There is no dissenting chapel in
the parish. Exclusive of the population at the Blantyre Works,
there are 6 families, including 30 individuals belonging to the
Relief, and 2 families, including 7 individuals, belonging to the
Roman Catholics. Divine service at the parish church is well at-
tended. Lord Blantyre is patron. The average weekly collec-
tion at the church door is 9s.
Education. — Besides the parish school in the village, in which
all the usual branches of education are taught, there are two En-
glish schools, one at Auchinraith, and another at Hunthill, and
also a school for females. The number of scholars attending these
schools is 123, twenty-five of whom attend the female school. The
LANARK. Y
326 LANARKSHIRE.
salary of the schoolmaster is the minimum, being about L. 26.
Amount of parochial schoolmaster's fees per annum is L. 20. All
children at the proper age are taught to read, except a few be-
longing to the Roman Catholic persuasion at the mills.*
Poor and Parochial Funds. — There is no assessment in this pa-
rish for the poor. There is at present a fund in the hands of the
heritors, minister, and kirk-session, amounting to L. 213, 13s.
which is increasing. The foundation of this sum is said to have
been donations left to the poor of the parish by benevolent per-
sons, who occasionally resorted to this part of the country to
enjoy the benefits of the well at Park. There are at present
only four persons on the poors' roll. The expenditure for the
poor during the year from February 1834 to February 1835 was
L. 29, 18s. 8d. and the average of five years preceding February
1835 was L. 37, 15s. 4d. The allowance per week is from Is. to
2s. 6d. The people at Blantyre works support their own poor,
and never allow them to be chargeable to the parish.
Alehouses, fyc. — There are 13 alehouses in the parish, one of
which is at Blantyre works. Coal is almost the only fuel burned,
and it is generally brought from Hamilton, and laid down at the
village of Blantyre, which stands nearly in the centre of the parish,
at about 6s. 6d. per ton. The present contract for coals laid down
at Blantyre Works is 4s. lid. per ton.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
The changes which have occurred in this parish since the pub-
lication of last account are considerable. The population has
increased from 1040 to 3000, and the comfort and intelligence of
the people keep pace with their numbers. This must be owing
in a great measure to the stimulus given to industry by the great
manufacturing establishment of Messrs Monteith and Company.
It has been supposed that agriculture is scarcely so far advanced
here as in some neighbouring parishes. This may perhaps be at-
tributed to the easy tenure by which most of the proprietors now
hold their lands ; being a very small or mere nominal feu from
Lord Blantyre. On the whole, however, the people of Blantyre
have reason to congratulate themselves on the rapid strides they
have already made, and are still making.
July 1835.
* These children are now, however, in terras of the late Factory Act, obliged to at-
tend the school.
PARISH OF CRAWFORD.
PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. THOMAS ANDERSON, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — Crawford is supposed by antiquarians to signify the
road or passage of blood. This derivation seems natural, from
the circumstance of the old Roman road passing through the vil-
lage and crossing the river Clyde below it, towards the old Castle
of Crawford, which stands on the right bank of the river, — where it
is probable many bloody conflicts took place between the invaders
and the native inhabitants. Part of the parish was formerly known
by the name of Douglas Moor, and part of it by that of Friar Moor,
but the district or parish is now designated Crawford Muir. It lies
in the south-east corner of Lanarkshire. There are two farms, in
the corner of Lanarkshire, attached to the parish of Moffat, in the
county of Dumfries, quod sacra.
Extent, 8fc. — The length of the parish is about 18 miles, and
the breadth 14 or 15 miles, but from its irregular figure, it does not
contain more than 118 square miles, or about 75,500 acres. It
is bounded by eleven different parishes : chiefly by Crawfordjohn
on the west ; by Sanquhar, Durrisdeer, and Morton, on the south-
west; by Closeburn, Kirkpatrick-juxta on the south ; by Moffat and
Tweedsmuir on the east ; and by Lamington on the north.
Topographical appearances. — The range of the mountains is
chiefly south-west and north-east ; but the parish may rather be re-
garded as a group of mountains or hills, the glens or valleys run-
ning in every direction. The Louther mountains lie chiefly in
this parish, and they are generally stated to be about 2450 feet
above the level of the sea. The acclivity of the hills being in ge-
neral gentle, they are for the most part covered with heath or grass,
which affords excellent pasture for sheep. The valleys or flat
grounds which separate the hills are partly dry, and partly wet and
spungy. Grounds of the last description when improved by drain-
ing, as many of them are, produce great quantities of coarse hay,
328
LANARKSHIRE.
which proves a seasonable supply, in the time of deep snow, for
the sheep.
Meteorology. — The only meteorological observations that I have
seen, as connected with the parish, are these made by Bailie Mar-
tin, at Leadhills, the highest inhabited village in the south of Scot-
land,— an abstract of which is here subjoined.*
Abstract of Meteorological Observations, from the year 1818 to
1832 inclusive, extracted from the Register kept by Bailie Mar-
tin, at Leadhills, Lanarkshire, in latitude 55° 28' north ; and
longitude 3° 50', west, at an altitude of 1240 above the sea;
distant from Leith 48 miles, and 30 from Dumfries.
Years.
Mean an-
nual tem-
perature.
Mean temperature of the seasons.
Mean an.
height of
barometer.
Fair
days.
Winter.
Spring.
Summer.
Autumn.
1818,
44 1-2
38 0
34 1-2
54 1-3
51 0
28 7-10
201
1819,
42 1-2
29 2-3
37 o
51 1-6
50 1-8
28 25-30
195f
1820,
47 2-3
28 5-8
205$
1821,
43 3-8
37 1-2
37 0
4.9 1-3
50 1-2
28 5-8
180§
1822,
44 0
34 4-10
39 0
53 4-10
48 7-10
28 5-9
182 i|
1823,
42 1-8
38 1-9
34 1-3
48 5-6
47 1-5
28 4-1 1
170^
1824,
43 7-9
36 2-3
36 1-2
52 4-11
49 0
28 7-91
195
1825,
43 3-4
32 2-9
37 7-9
52 2-3
52 1-4
28 1-9
200 »•
1826,
45 1-6
35 1-6
38 2-3
56 0
50 2-3
28 2-3
193ft
1827,
44 1-2
38 2-3
35 7-9
52 1-6
51 2-3
28 1-2
205tf
1828,
45 1-2
38 2-3
39 1-7
52 3-8
51 2-3
28 4-11
208
1829,
42 0
83 1-3
35 3-4
51 3-8
47 1-3
^8 1-2
237
1830,
43 0
34 0
38 1-3
50 2-3
48 7-9
28 1-2
163§§
1821,
44 1-2
36 0
39 1-6
53 2-3
52 1-3
28 1-2
215IIH
1 832,
43 1-2
36 4-5
38 1-5
51 T-3
51 1-12
'28 3-5
2351Jf
The winds are generally from west and south-west. In spring
* Vide early volumes of Blackwood's Magazine and Edinburgh Philosophical
Journal for other details illustrative of the climate of the Leadhills.
REMARKS.
f One day in July, thermometer at 78°. December 13th at 13°. Barometer,
September 22d and October 3d, 4th, 5th, at 29° 2'.
| Thermometer, January 17th, at 7°. November 28th, a shock of an earthquake
at 8 A. M. ; a more severe one at half-past 1 1 P. M. 29th, a slight shock half-past 10
p. M. It was felt by the miners in the mines. The barometer 29° 1'.
§ May 25, thermometer 28°. On the 26th at 29°. In January 23d, barometer at
29° 5', and four following days at 29° 4'
|| June 9th, thermometer in the sun against a wall stood at 106° at 5 p. M.
f November 12th to 18th, barometer at 29°.
** -July 26th, thermometer 80° at 2 p. M. Barometer, January 4th to 13th, at 29°
or above ; on the 10th at 29' 6'.
•j-f- June 26th, thermometer 86° at half-past 2. In the sun, 109° at 6 P. M. In
April 27th, at 23°.
%% January 3d, thermometer at 7°.
§§ April 30th, thermometer at 12° at 4 A. M., and so high as 54° at 4 P. M. July
30th, in the sun, 125°
|| || December 9th, barometer at 27° 3'. December 27th, at 29° 1',
J<| August 26th, Aurora Borealis extremely brilliant about 10 p. M., and the noise
distinctly heard by persons whose veracity cannot be doubted. It resembled the
sound of distant waters.
CRAWFORD. 329
they are frequently from east and north-east, and are generally
cold and dry. The heaviest rains are supposed to fall in the month
of September. The old inhabitants state that deep snows are less
frequent than in former times.
As the parish has in general rather a northern exposure, and
the lowest part of it towards the north-west is about 850 feet above
the level of the sea, the climate cannot be supposed to be very ge-
nial, yet it cannot be said to be unhealthy. Rheumatism seems
to be the only prevailing disorder with which the inhabitants are
afflicted, — no doubt occasioned by the fogs and damps prevalent
at high altitudes.
Hydrography. — This parish abounds with springs of the purest
water. Two of these send forth mineral waters resembling those
of Moffat. They are all on one line, and about eight miles distant
from each other ; but the springs in this parish have never been
analyzed. There is a spring on the boundary of the parish which
possesses a strong petrifying quality, and all the^/oy around it is
turned into stone, from whence beautiful specimens are often taken.
There is another spring in the parish at Campshead still stronger.
The Clyde is the principal river which takes its rise in this pa-
rish ; all the others flow into it, except the Evan, which joins the
Annan near Moffat. The source of the Clyde is about 1400 feet
above the level of the sea, and upwards of fifty miles from Glasgow.
It runs in a small stream till it joins the Daer, a very considerable
river which takes its rise near the boundary of Closeburn parish.
The Clyde receives a number of tributary streams in this parish.
It has a north-west direction, with a gentle declivity, and flows over
a broad gravelly bed. It leaves the parish at Abington, when it
takes a north-east direction by Lamington.
Geology. — To those interested in the study of the transition
rocks of that particular series which forms the greater part of the
southern high land of Scotland, this parish affords many facilities.
Here, as in other districts of the mountainous region of southern
Scotland, grey wacke, with its subordinate formations, predominates.
Soil. — The soil which chiefly abounds in the parish is the moor soil.
On the banks of the Clyde the soil is rich. Cultivation is carried
on chiefly on the banks of the Clyde, and at the junction of the
smaller streams with the Clyde. Within this small space are found
soils of various kinds, gravelly, sandy, loamy, and alluvial. By the
improvements that have taken place, in consequence of the use of
lime, the regular change of early seed, and the cultivation of green
330 LANARKSHIRE.
crop, the harvest is now much earlier than in former times, and the
crops much more abundant.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
It is supposed that in the charter-chest of the Marquis of Lo-
thian, there are a variety of papers which, if examined, might illus-
trate the state of the parish before the Reformation. A chapel or
church at Crawford was dedicated to Constantine, King of the
Scots, about the year 943 ; and the greater part of the parish be-
longed at one time to the monastery of Newbattle, and the lesser
part to Holyrood.
Eminent Men. — The celebrated poet Allan Ramsay was a na-
tive of this parish. He was born at Leadhills, and lived there for
fifteen years, when he went to Edinburgh, and commenced a cir-
culating library.
James Taylor, son of one of the overseers of the mines, first
suggested to Mr Miller of Dalswinton, the idea of propelling ves-
sels by the power of steam, and assisted that gentleman in his ex-
periments. He was born here in the year 1757, and died at Cum-
nock in 1825. Setting aside the invention of Jonathan Hulls in
1736, which led to no practical use, the above individual has cer-
tainly the distinguished honour of first applying steam power to
propel vessels on water. The successful experiments were made
at Dalswinton in 1788. *
William Symington, practical engineer, was likewise a native of
this village, and deserves notice from his having been employed
by Mr Miller and Mr Taylor in fitting up the steam-engine on
board the pleasure boat at Dalswinton, and afterwards suggesting
the application of that power to land-carriages.
Land-Owners. — The chief land-owners in the parish are, in the
order of their valuations, Lord Hopetoun, Henry Colebrooke, Esq.
Lord Balgray, Lord Douglas, the Duke of Buccleuch, George Ir*
ving, Esq. and Mr John Forsyth ; there are five other smaller
land-owners.
Parochial Registers. — The earliest date of the parochial regis-
ter is 1707. This register has been regularly kept, but is now in
a very bad state.
Antiquities. — Although there are no remains of religious houses
* For a more particular account of this splendid discovery, reference may be made
to a biographical sketch of Mr Taylor in No. 58 of Chambers' Edinburgh Journal ;
also a Brief Account of the rise and progress of steam navigation, with an impartial
inquiry into the claims of the principal pretenders to the honour of that important
discovery, lately printed at Ayr j and lastly to the newspapers at the period of the
discovery.
CRAWFORD. 331
in the parish except the old church, yet it is evident, from various
circumstances, that there were at one time many houses or places
of worship. One place, in particular, is pointed out as an ancient
burying-ground, and lies on the bank of what is called the Chapel
Burn.
There are two or three apparently old Roman camps in the pa-
rish. The one that is most entire, and the largest, is on Boads-
berry hill, the property of George Irving, Esq. The other is on
the farm called Whitecamp, and lies towards Tweedsmuir. The
two great Roman roads by Moffatand Dumfries had their junction
in this parish, which, when formed into one great road, passed on
towards Lamington.
The old Castle of Crawford or Tower Lindsay bears every mark
of having been strongly fortified and surrounded by water. There
are various traditions regarding it, but none of these appear parti-
cularly interesting. The farm-houses, in ancient times were gene-
rally vaulted, and served as small fortifications. This was neces-
sary during the times when the Douglas family and Johnstone of
Annandale were carrying on their petty wars, and when the bor-
derers were committing their ravages.
Some years ago an earthen vessel or urn was dug up on the
castle farm, which contained something like small pieces of bone.
This urn is in the possession of Mr James Watson, the present
tenant.
Mansion-House. — The only new modern building is Newton
House. It was built a few years ago by the late Lord Newton,
wholly on a plan formed by his Lordship, and is both substantial
and commodious.
III. — POPULATION.
It appears that the population of this parish was in former
times much greater than at present. At the time of Dr Web-
ster's Report in 1755, the population was 2009; at present it is
1850. The practice, which now so generally prevails in this coun-
try, of uniting many small farms into one, is no doubt the chief
cause of the decrease. There is, perhaps, no parish where this
practice has so generally prevailed as in this ; and, indeed, nearly
the half of this extensive parish is in the hands of non-resident
tenants, — the resident tenants occupying only two or three farms.
In the memory even of the present generation, fifteen families lived
where there is now scarcely the vestige of a ruin. Other parts of
the parish show the same marks of depopulation.
332 LANARKSHIRE.
The population is thus distributed :—
In the town or village of Crawford, - 217
Leadhills, 1188
In the country part of the parish, 445
The average of births, _ . , _ 59
deaths, - *- ' - - 26
marriages, - - 13
persons under 15 years of age, 578
above 70, - - 23
The number of families in the parish is - 406
chiefly employed in agriculture, - ' 59
in trade, manufactures, and handicraft, 35
not included under either of these descriptions, - 312
All the proprietors of land, to the number of twelve, possess land
upwards of the yearly value of L. 50.
IV.: — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — Notwithstanding the extent of the parish, the
arable ground is very limited, being not more than 1200 acres. As
the parish is chiefly pastoral, it is difficult to say to what extent
improvements might be carried on with advantage to the tenant.
A very few hundred acres might perhaps be added to the arable
grounds ; but it is the opinion of the judicious farmer, that much
improvement might be made by turning up large tracts of rough
moorlands, and sowing them with various kinds of grass seeds ; and
by adding a portion of lime, according to the nature of the soil.
^ There is no natural wood in the parish ; and till within these
few years there were few trees in it excepting around Newton and
the old castle. A number of small clumps have been planted dur-
ing the last ten years. Still the number of acres under wood does
not exceed 150. It s.eems evident. that the clumps are too small to
do much good in this high climate. There are a few old trees in
the parish ; these are chiefly ash, elm, and plane. It is quite un-
certain whether these are the remains or not of the old forests.
A charter, in the charter-chest of the Marquis of Lothian, secures
to the inhabitants of Crawford the liberty to cut wood in the Forest
of Glengonan, where there are now only two or three solitary trees.
Rent of Land. — As nothing but the best land is kept in cultiva-
tion, the average rent may be stated as high as L. 1, or perhaps
L. 1, 5s/ The rate of grazing may be thus stated; an ox or cow,
L. 2, 10s. ; a ewe, 4s. 3d. for the year.
Rate of Wages. — There are few men-servants engaged express-
ly for the purpose of farm labour ; but those who are thus em-
ployed may receive wages varying in the rate betwixt L.6 and L.12 ;
young girls receive from L. 1, 10s. to L.3, 10s. ; full-grown stout wo-
men, who can milk cows, from L, 4 to L. 8 for the year. Shepherds
CRAWFORD. 333
in general receive little money from their masters. They enjoy the
profits of what is called a pack, that is, forty or fifty ewes with their
lambs. This is an encouragement to look after the interest of the
flock in general. Should, however, the shepherd leave his master,
he does not carry his little flock along with him ; it is taken off his
hand at a valuation, and is transferred to his successor at the same
rate, and forms part of the stock of the farm : besides, he receives
forty or fifty stones of oatmeal, perhaps a few potatoes, and has a
cow kept through the year at the expense of the master.
Stock.— In former times, the short or black-faced sheep formed
the principal stock of the parish. This is still the case on the
higher grounds; but of late years, in consequence of the high
price of wool, the Cheviot breed has been introduced, where it
can be done with propriety. In other cases, a cross breed between
the short or black-faced and the Cheviot is preferred. This
breed, by frequent crossing, has been brought almost to the real
Cheviot, and gives satisfaction to many who have tried it.
The duration of leases is generally from nine to fifteen years ;
some few leases reach the extent of nineteen years. These short
leases are very unfavourable to the improvements even of a pasto-
ral country. Though draining and enclosing have been carried
on to a great extent, (and perhaps there are few parishes where
these improvements have been carried on to a greater extent,) yet
short leases are a drag to the exertions of the tenants. The drains
« that are made, and the dikes reared, are generally at the expense
of the land-owner, the tenant paying six or six and a-half per cent,
on the outlay. Were the leases longer, many small enclosures
would be made, many drains would be opened, and much ground
would be turned up by the very active tenantry at present in the
parish. It must be observed, that the chief landholders afford every
encouragement to their tenants, and provide them with comfortable
accommodation.
Slate Quarry. — A slate quarry (transition clay slate) on the pro-
perty of the Earl of Hopetoun gives employment to six or eight
men through the year. The slate, in general, is reckoned soft j
some of it, however, is of an excellent quality.
Leadhills. — The mining village of Leadhills,'lies in the south-
west of the parish at the distance of a mile from Wanlockhead in
Dumfries-shire, where lead mines are also carried on. It contains
a population of 1 1 88. It is situated in an irregular valley sur-
rounded by hills covered with heath, and at a short distance on
334 LANARKSHIRE.
the south-east is overlooked by a lofty heather ridge, rising to the
height of 2450 feet above the sea, and from the summit of which
the view is truly grand and extensive. To the south the view is
bounded by the Solway Frith, the mountains of Skiddaw and Hel-
vellyn in Cumberland, and the Isle of Man ; to the west by Aisla
Craig, Isle of Arran, Benlomond, and the Paps of Jura; and on
the north, by the range of the Pentlands
The appearance of the village is peculiar from the detached man-
ner in which the cottages are placed on the eminences or in hol-
lows of the valley, according as the fancy or caprice of miners sug-
gested. The principal houses are, a large and somewhat ancient
mansion called the Ha', belonging to the Earl of Hopetoun, and
from which the noble family take their title. One of its wings is
converted into a chapel, in which divine service is regularly perform-
ed by a chaplain, principally supported by the Earl of Hopetoun.
The villa appropriated for the agent of the Scotch Mines Com-
pany is neat, and the garden laid out with considerable taste, pro-
ducing strawberries, gooseberries, black and red currants, &c. and
the usual culinary vegetables. In favourable years a few apples
are also obtained. The house and grounds are surrounded by a
thriving plantation of beech, larch, common and mountain ash,
plane and elm trees.
The library was instituted by the miners in the year 1741, and
consists of 1600 or 1700 volumes. The terms of admission and
annual subscription are extremely moderate, and consequently af-
ford every facility for intellectual instruction, thus, in some mea-
sure accounting for the character which the workmen have long
had of possessing a more than usual share of intelligence for men
in their situation.
The soil is indifferent, and in a natural state would only afford
pasture for sheep ; still, under every disadvantage, the miners by their
industry, aided by the kindness of the noble proprietors, who give
land to improve, rent free, — have by spade labour alone brought
into cultivation somewhat more than a mile square, yielding one
year with another not less than 10,000 stones of hay, and a con-
siderable quantity of grass for summer use. The potatoe crop ave-
rages 8000 or 10,000 stones, and to these may be added a small
quantity of oats. The two last occasionally suffer from wet or frost.
In the year 1731, little cultivation had been attempted, and only two
cows were kept in the village; in 1773, twenty cows were maintained,
and at present there are upwards of ninety, — the produce of which
CRAWFORD. 335
affords material assistance to the miners in supporting themselves
and their families during the present depressed state of the mining
concerns. At this moment, when the capabilities of spade labour
engage so much attention, it is surely consolatory to know from
experience how much it can effect on coarse lands, and at an ele-
vation of 1300 feet above the level of the sea.
The prevailing diseases are, rheumatism, hernia, and affections
of chest, especially the last. The men engaged in reducing the
ores are occasionally seized with the painters' colic, or, as the
smelters term it, "mill-reek;" but from the improved construction
of furnaces, the disease is becoming less frequent. It, however,
causes a considerable mortality among animals, both wild and do-
mestic; and though the symptoms vary in the different species, yet
in all they exhibit the usual effects of the poison of lead.
Mining District of Lead/tills. — The mines are of considerable
celebrity, and have in all probability been worked from a very re-
mote period, although the written documents reach no farther
back than the year 1600. It is well known that lead mines were
opened by the Romans in England ; and as one of their principal
military roads passed through the parish, and the remains of seve-
ral of their camps in this and the adjoining one are still visible, it
may be reasonably supposed that people possessed of so much in-
telligence might have discovered them.
The mineral district comprehends a space about 3 miles in
length by 2J in breadth, and is principally composed of greywacke
and greywacke slate, which range from south-west to north-east.
These strata are associated with transition clay slate, called edge
metal, from its vertical position, through which the metalliferous
veins pass.' A basaltic, or, if I may be allowed the expression, a
basaltic-greenstone vein, crosses the country from east to west ; .
it is 50 or 60 yards in breadth ; and the detached masses on the
surface, in many instances, have a pentagonal form, and seem as if
they had been acted on by fire. Specimens of calcedony are
found in it, but they are coarse, and of little or no value.
A thick bed of flinty-slate also occurs among these transition
rocks, which on each side degenerates into a clayey substance,
which, by weathering, becomes very white and soft, and if properly
examined may be found useful in the arts. This bed points south-
west and north-east, is vertical, and the lead veins do not pene-
trate it. The veins appear to the north, but are too poor to be
336 LANARKSHIRE.
wrought. In addition to the above, irregular beds and masses of
quarry-stone or felspar rock are found.
The principal lead veins run south-east and north-west, with a
dip or hade to the east of one foot in three. Several of them have
afforded large quantities of ore, especially the High Work, Meadow-
head, Brow, and Susannah veins, the last yielding a great part of
the produce for many years. It is now nearly abandoned, from the
low price of lead holding out little encouragement to sink deeper
than at present, — the present depth being about 140 fathoms from
the surface. The common and compact galena or lead glance are
the principal ores, and furnish all the lead used in the arts ; be-
sides these, they contain small quantities of green, black, and yel-
low lead ores ; white and black carbonates ; sulphate and sulpho-
tricarbonates of lead ; phosphate and earthy lead ores ; copper and
iron pyrites, malachite, azure copper ore, gray manganese, blende,
and calamine. The vein stones are quartz, calcareous spar, brown
spar, sparry ironstone, heavy spar, &c.
The ore is prepared for reduction by bruising or pounding, and
then subjecting it to a stream of water, — by which means the im-
purities are carried off, and the pure ore is collected. It is then
put into a small blast furnace with peat or turf, coal, and a small
portion of lime, by which process the volatile ingredients are
carried away, the ore becomes oxidized, then decomposed, and
the oxygen combining with the carbon flies off in the form of car-
bonic gas, while the lead in its metallic state sinks to the bottom
of the furnace. It is then drawn off into a reservoir, and put into
moulds with an iron ladle or spoon. At present the mines yield
annually about 700 tons of lead.
A manufactory of small shot was established about eighteen
months ago, and is likely to succeed. All the different kinds are
made, and of the best quality. The largest varieties are consider-
ed superior to any produced by the English manufactories.
Silver is contained in the lead, but in too small quantity to re-
pay its extraction. *
Gold is found in all our neighbouring streams, disseminated in
minute particles through the till or clay more immediately cover-
ing the rocks, and also occasionally interspersed in quartz. The
search for this precious metal was formerly conducted on a large
scale, and afforded a remuneration to the adventurer. During
* Vide, for further particulars of the mineralogy of the district, Professor Jame-
son's Mineralogy of the County of Dumfries, published by Blackwood in 1805.
CRAWFORD. 337
the reign of Elizabeth, several Englishmen and Germans obtained
commissions from the Scottish Regent, and employed a number of
men in the above work. They obtained very considerable quan-
tities, which were sent to Edinburgh, and coined into bonnet or
unicorn pieces. The manuscript records of these works, some of
which are to be found in the Advocates' Library at Edinburgh,
state that specimens of native gold were sometimes found, weigh-
ing from one to several ounces. In more recent times, the largest
found have not weighed more than two guineas, and these very
rare ; at present it is only occasionally sought after, and then only
for the curious, as the amount got will not repay the expense of
collecting.
Produce. — The amount and value of the gross produce of the
parish may be thus stated :
Oats, including fodder, . L. 900
Green crop, ... . 420
Meadow and bog hay, . . 437
Dairy produce, .... 785
Young cattle, . . . . 350
Product of sheep, .... 9200
Horse, 50
Lead mines, . . 6000
Slate quarry, . . . *; 250
L. 18392
The rental may be about L. 8500.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Villages. — The village or town of Crawford contains a population
of 217. In ancient times, it enjoyed many privileges, and was un-
der the superintendence of a bailie of barony, and in later times
under what was called a birley court. It has now lost all its pri-
vileges,— a circumstance, perhaps, not much to be regretted. The
inhabitants are chiefly employed in country labour. The nearest
market-towns are Moffat on the south, and Biggar on the north,
each about fifteen miles distant. Although it may thus be con-
sidered far from a market-town, yet it enjoys great advantages,
having daily communication with Glasgow, Edinburgh, Carlisle,
and Dumfries. The great road from Glasgow to Carlisle, and
that from Edinburgh to Dumfries by Biggar, runs through the
middle of the parish for the distance of thirteen or fourteen miles.
The mail-coach passes through the village daily to and from Glas-
gow, and a heavy coach runs daily between Edinburgh and Dum-
fries.
The village of Leadhills has been already described. It has
338 LANARKSHIRE.
enjoyed the privilege of having a post-office for many years, and
has at present a daily post.
Means of Communication. — The turnpike roads are in the best
state of repair. A new and elegant stone bridge was built at
Newton in 1824; and by the liberality of a few of the proprie-
tors, a chain bridge was thrown over the Clyde at Crawford in
1831, the span of which is upwards of 75 feet. This bridge affords
great accommodation ; the children are thereby enabled to attend
school regularly, and the inhabitants the church.
Ecclesiastical State. — In the present state of the parish, the
church, though not in the centre of the parish, is perhaps in
the most advantageous situation. It is an old building, but in a
state of good repair, having been new seated about twenty years
aero. It affords accommodation for about 260 sitters, and it will
o '
soon be made to contain 50 more. There are at present no free
sittings, except the communion tables. The manse was built about
25 years ago, and has since been repaired. The extent of the
glebe is about 12 acres. There are 4 acres of arable ground
and 8 acres of what is called a grass glebe, and the whole may
be valued at L. 15. The stipend is 15 chalders of victual, the one-
half barley, and the other oat-meal; L. 8, 6s. 8d. are allowed for
communion elements. The stipend may thus be stated at L. 220.
There is a chapel or preaching station at Leadhills. In 1736,
the Earl of Hopetoun obtained the sanction of the General As-
sembly, to employ a chaplain or preacher for the benefit of the
miners, at the same time retaining the power either to employ one,
or not, as his Lordship should deem expedient. The salary is paid
by Lord Hopetoun and the Mining Company, and amounts to about
L. 70, with a house. There is not a dissenting meeting-house in the
parish, nor more than twelve or fifteen persons connected with dis-
senting houses of any kind. The number of communicants con-
nected with the Established Church may be about 480.
Education. — There are three schools in the parish. The school
at Leadhills is the only one besides the parochial school, that en-
joys the benefit of an endowment. The salary attached to the
Leadhills school is about L. 30 and a house. The common
branches of education only are taught in these schools. The pa-
rochial schoolmaster enjoys a salary of about L. 34, with legal ac-
commodation. The school fees may amount to about L. 15 more.
Such is the value that the people in general set on education that
all the farmers who have young families employ a teacher, espe-
CRAWFORD. 339
cially during the winter, and many of the shepherds who are at a
distance from a school follow the same plan.
Poor. — In consequence of the mining operations being somewhat
fluctuating, numbers of individuals occasionally leave the place, and
afterwards become a burden on the poor's fund. The number of
persons on the roll may be about 10, exclusive of the poor in Lead-
hills, who are supplied by a stated sum, given by the heritors and
Lord Hopetoun. The average sum given to the poor on the roljj is
about L.2, 10s. The whole amount required in support of the poor
in'the parish is about L. 85; L. 50 of which is contributed voluntari-
ly by the heritors, and the remaining sum is raised by the collec-
tions, &c. at the church and chapel, and by donations from Lord Hope-
toun. The aversion to receive parochial relief, by which Scotland
was formerly distinguished, seems here, as in many other places, to
be on the decline.
Fairs. — There are two fairs held at Leadhills during the year,
chiefly with the view of supplying the village with the necessaries
and the comforts of life. These fairs are very advantageous to
the country around, and are generally well attended.
Inns. — There are two inns at Crawford and one at Leadhills,
which afford excellent accommodation to travellers. No alehouse
is allowed at Leadhills.
Fuel. — In the higher parts of the parish, peat or turf is the fuel
generally used, and is procured mostly from the tops of the hills.
Peat ground does not abound in the parish, and it is difficult to pro-
cure enough of it for the use of the smelting operations at Lead-
hills. Coal, brought from Douglas, is generally used in the lower
parts of the parish. Thus fuel is procured at no small experfse.
The coal is carried upwards of fourteen miles, and access to the
peat is difficult.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
The improvements that have been made in the parish within the
last fifty years are very striking ; both as they regard rural economy
and the morality of £he people. The improvement on the stock or
sheep is very apparent, — the quality is better, the number is greater.
This may arise from various causes combined, — the spirit of emula-
tion which exists amongst the tenants in the parish, — the extensive
improvement made on the sheep-walks by draining, — and the vast
extent of separation dikes, which allow the flocks to pasture at ease
on their own grounds, and which afford shelter from the storm.
340 LANARKSHIRE.
Among the lower orders of the people, there are now more tem-
perance and industry than formerly.
The inhabitants of Leadhills have long enjoyed a respectable
character, and every encouragement is held out for them to main-
tain the high character which they have gained. They have an ex-
cellent library, and through the liberality of the Earl of Hopetoun
they enjoy many comforts. They have been allowed as much of the
waste or muirland as they can cultivate.
July 1835.
PARISH OF CULTER.
PRESBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE.
THE REV. JAMES PROUDFOOT, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name, Boundaries, fyc. — THE name of this parish is a Gaelic
compound, consisting of Cul, the back part or recess, and Tir, the
land or country. The village of Culter accordingly, viewed from
any commanding station in the adjacent valley, appears to occupy
the " Back part or Recess of the District."
In 1794, a decreet was given by the Lords of Council and Ses-
sion suppressing the parish of Kilbucho, and annexing part of the
same to that of Culter. By this deed, which took effect on the
death of the then minister of Kilbucho, a very considerable addi-
tion was made both to the territorial extent and population of Cul-
ter. The following retnarks, therefore, refer both to Culter, as de-
scribed in the former Statistical Account, and to that part of Kil-
bucho which has since been added.
Extent, §'c. — The mean length of the parish, as it is now con-
stituted, is 7 miles, and the mean breadth somewhat less than 3.
It contains 19 square miles. In shape, it is a long narrow tract, ex-
tending from north to south ; the Kilbucho part forming a large
excrescence on the eastern side of its northern extremity. It is
bounded on the west by Lamington and Symington; on the north
by Biggar and a small part of Skirling ; on the east by the united
parishes of Broughton, Glenholm, and Kilbucho; and on the south
by Drummelzier and Crawford.
CULTER. 341
Topographical Appearances. — The lower part of the parish con-
sists of a long tract of land, partly level and partly undulating,
running from S. W. to N. E., bounded on the one side by the
river Clyde, and part of Biggar; and on the other by the hills rising
toward the south. The whole of this vale is uncommonly beautiful.
Here no less than five proprietors have their residences at no great
distance from each other. Two of these are delightfully situated on
the banks of the Clyde, and the other three stand nearer the hills.
These, surrounded with their lawns and gardens, and partly seen
from amongst long lines and clumps of fine old trees, present to the
eye a landscape partaking more of the richness of England, than of
our northern clime. The hilly part of the parish again exhibits a
striking contrast to the division now mentioned. A long range of
green hills, partly planted and parked, rises abruptly from the vale.
These as they recede southward increase into mountains covered
with heath, the chief of which is the Felly ascertained by a late mea-
surement to be 2330 feet above the level of the sea, thus overtop-
ping the neighbouring hill of Tinto by 94 feet. But neither is this
mountainous district without its peculiar beauty. There is no
sweeter glen than that of Culter water. As far as Birth wood, two
miles upward, it is partially cultivated and wooded. Beyond this
it narrows, affording little more than room for the stream, which
here has its linns with their necessary accompaniments of " rock
and roar" to captivate the admirer of wild and romantic beauty.
The hills which border on the arable part of the parish range from
S. W. to N. E. But in the higher district, their range is exceed-
ingly varied. Sometimes they are lumpish and detached, and some-
times they run into chains, lying in all possible directions.
Meteorology.— In the vicinity of such mountain ranges, the at-
mosphere must be moist and rains frequent : but as we have no
bogs or undrained marshes, the people are in general healthy, and
in many instances live to a very advanced age. On the 28th day
of July 1829, the thermometer at the manse stood at 83° in the
shade : and on one day towards the beginning of the same month
in the year 1834, at 82°. These are the greatest heights observ-
ed by the writer for the last seven years. On the evening of Ja-
nuary the 17th of the present year it stood as low as 10°.
Hydrography. — Towards the southern extremity of the parish,
is a spring which has generally been "considered to have a petrify-
ing power. The moss by which it is bordered is completely in-
durated, and many beautiful specimens have been preserved, which
LANARK. Z
342 LANARKSHIRE.
have all the appearance of having undergone a regular process of pe-
trifaction. But upon a closer examination, it is found that the moss
has by no means been converted into stone, but only been cover-
ed over with it, having received a deposition of the incrusting car-
bonate of lime. The only stream of any consequence is Culter
water, which, after dividing the parish lengthways nearly into two
equal parts, falls into the Clyde, about half a mile beneath the vil-
lage. The Clyde itself forms the western boundary for about
two miles. At the point where it leaves the parish, the river makes
a remarkable bend, changing its course from N. E. to N. W. and
this is the first of the many great curves which it makes in its pro-
gress to the sea. *
Geology. — Sandstone does not occur within our bounds, al-
though conglomerate or puddingstone is found in some places.
The hills are composed chiefly of greywacke, the common blue
whinstone of the peasantry, so prevalent all over Tweeddale. The
soil is of great variety, as is generally the case where the surface
is very uneven. In the lower grounds it is a sandy loam, not very
deep, but dry, and when well managed never fails to yield the hus-
bandman an ample return. On the braes and hills it is much
lighter; and towards the eastern or Kilbucho part of the parish
it inclines to clay. Moss may be seen on the tops of the highest
hills, and in some particular spots of the lower grounds ; but the
general character of the soil is that it is hard and dry. Foot-rot
among the sheep is altogether unknown, and in few places are they
so seldom exposed to diseases of any kind.
Botany. — The plants at all worthy of being called uncommon
are extremely few. The following, with their several localities, are
given as a specimen : Cistus Helianthcmum, found at Cultercraigs
and several other places ; Geum urbanum, growing abundantly in
a ditch at Hartree ; Ononis arvensis, seen scantily near Cornhill ;
Rubus suberectus and Primula veris, both found in Culterallers
* At Wolf- Clyde, the point above-mentioned, a curiosity may sometimes be seen,
viz. the Clyde running into the Tweed. The vale of Biggar-water, which here
stretches berween these two rivers, is but slightly elevated above the bed of the Clyde.
During a top-flood, part of the latter river sometimes finds its way into Biggar-water,
and is thereby carried into the Tweed, and this happens once perhaps in three or four
years. Hence it will be seen that it were a very easy matter to send the Clyde to
Berwick instead of Glasgow. Indeed a common tradition is prevalent here that the
famous magician Michael Scott had nearly accomplished this. The story is, that he
was marching down the vale of the Biggar, with the Clyde following at his heels,
but that, being alarmed by the sound of the water as it came roaring behind, he
looked back, and so the spell was broken, and the vagrant waters returned' into their
wonted channel. Of course little were the Glasgow folks dreaming of the peril to
which their city was exposed.
CULTER. 343
wood ; Orolus sylvat icus and Tussilago petasitcs, near Culter water;
Saxifraga granulata, near Wolf- Clyde Bridge; Scleranthus annum,
top of Crosscroin; Malva moschata, road near the village; and
Rubus Chamcemorus, towards the top of the Fell. At Culterallers
is the only piece of copse to be found either in the parish or
neighbourhood. It consists of several acres, and has the following
trees growing in a natural state : The sloe, the birch, the alder,
the hazel, the hawkberry or bird-cherry, the rowan or mountain-
ash, and many different kinds of the willow. In only one place
(Kingsbeck-burn) is the juniper to be seen. Trees that have
been planted are of the common kinds, but these are too numerous
to be given in detail. Some attain to a very large size. At Nis-
bet is a very fine plane of the following dimensions: height of
trunk 10 feet: girth of trunk at 3 feet from the ground 12^ feet.
The branches cover a circle 66 feet in diameter. This is no con-
temptible tree, standing, as it does, at an altitude of about 650 feet
above the level of the sea.
Fine Old Maple Tree. — The following description of this tree
is taken from Sir Thomas D. Lauder's Edition of Gilpin's Forest
Scenery : — " A maple at Culter, in Clydesdale, measured in the
year 1800, at the height of three feet from the ground, was found
to be 8 feet in circumference : at the height of three feet it divides
into two arms, one of which at two feet above the trunk measures
6 feet round ; the other at the same height above the trunk mea-
sures 4 feet 2 inches round." These were its dimensions in 1800,
as taken by Dr Walker, then Professor of Natural History in the
University of Edinburgh. Its dimensions in the year 1835 are the
following : — At the height of three feet above the ground the cir-
cumference is 10 feet ; of the larger arm at two feet above the trunk
the circumference is 7 feet, 6 inches ; of the lesser arm at the same
height the circumference is 5 feet. The branches cover a circle, the
diameter of which is 57 feet This very fine tree stands directly
in front of the mansion-house of Mr Baillie of Culterallers, and
is understood to be the largest of the kind in Scotland, with the
exception of one at Roseneath, belonging to the Duke of Argyle,
From a comparison of the above measurements may be seen what
has been its increase for the last thirty-five years.
The tree that holds the predominance in this parish and district
is the Scoth fir ; and the result here, as in other places where it
has been planted in a light soil and very exposed situation is, it
thrives very well for about twenty or thirty years : it then begins
344 LANARKSHIRE.
to decay, and finally dies at a premature old age. This melancholy
spectacle is but too common in this parish. Several plantations
on the higher grounds and lighter soils are fast dying out, and
ere long must totally disappear, — an evil which might have been
avoided if, instead of the fir, had been planted the larch, and the
many other kinds of trees which might have been found better suit-
ed to the soil.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Parochial Registers. — The oldest register bears date 1700.
The sederunts of session are recorded continuously from that date
down to the present time ; but there is no record of births, bap-
tisms, marriages, or deaths, from 1721 to 1737. For this blank
no cause can now be assigned. The whole sessional accounts and
records are contained in five books or volumes. During the in-
cumbency of the Rev. Mr Forrester, ordained in 1700, these do-
cuments seem to have been kept with considerable care ; but ge-
nerally speaking, afterwards, very little attention has been bestow*
ed upon them.
Land-owners.* — Besides Mr White, farmer in Shaw, who jointly
with another person has lately purchased that farm, the land-
owners are the following: David Dickson, Esq. of Hartree and
Kilbucho; Robert Granbery Baillie, Esq. of Culterallers; Adam
Sim, Esq. of Cultermains; William Bertram, Esq. of Nisbet;
Robert Paterson, Esq. of Birthwood, and Robert Bruce Camp-
bell, Esq. of Cornhill. With the exception of Mr Bertram, the
whole of these reside on their respective properties, and for the
most part during the whole year.
Eminent men. — Anthony Murray, minister of the parish dur-
ing the religious persecutions of Charles II. is mentioned by the
historians of these times in terms of the highest commendation.
He belonged to the suffering party, and seems to have been a lead-
ing man. It appears from Wodrow that he was related to the
* The following extract from Chalmers' Caledonia throws some light on the pro-
prietorship of the parish in ancient times. " During the reign of David II. the half
of the barony of Culter was held by Walter Byset of the King in capite, and Byset
stated that it hrd been so held by his ancestors. In 1367» Walter Byset granted to
William Newbiggin of Dunsyre, all his lands in the barony of Culter, except the
lands of Nisbet; and he also granted the patronage of the church with these lands, to
be held by Newbiggin and his son David, of the King. In 1367, Sir Archibald Dou-
glas the Lord Galloway obtained, on the resignation of Walter Byset of Clerking-
ton, a charter of the lands of Clerkington in Edinburghshire, and the half of the
barony of Culter in Lanarkshire. On the JOth of December 1449, William Earl
of Douglas obtained a charter of the half of the land near the parish church of Cul-
ter, and of the advowson of the same church. The right of these was forfeited by
his successor James Earl of Douglas in 1455."
8
CULTER. 345
Duchess of Lauderdale, and that, on account of this connexion, he
was delegated by the influential ministers of the day to present an
address to the Duke in favour of the Nonconformists.* A tradition,
which is still prevalent, says, that, after being prohibited from
preaching, he continued to reside in the parish, and supported him-
self by his medical skill, observing facetiously, that Now he would
make the doctor keep the minister. He outlived these troublous
times, and died minister of the parish, as is testified by the inscrip-
tion on his tombstone in the church-yard.
Under this head may be also mentioned the late Dr Jackson,
so well known by his excellent work on fever, and numerous other
valuable contributions to medical science. He was not a native of
Culter, but his father came to the parish whilst he was very young,
and here his boyhood was spent.
Antiquities. — A little way below the village, on the west side of
Culter water, is a place called Chapel-hill, where once stood a
house belonging to the Knights- Templars, founded by Walter
Bysset, in the reign of David II. At that time the church of Cul-
ter belonged to the Abbey of Kelso. A keen dispute having
arisen on one occasion between the abbot and the master of the
Templars, about tithes alleged to have been due to the Abbey,
the latter, in his unwillingness to pay, gave an instance of special
pleading, which must appear a curiosity to all who have seen the
place to which reference is made. " The master and brethren
pleaded, that their order enjoyed a general exemption from pay-
ing tithes ; also that the parish church of Culter, standing on the
other side of a great river, on which there was no bridge, was sel-
dom accessible to them without great danger."f All things seem
formidable to an unwilling mind. The great river here spoken of
is Culter water, a stream of a few paces in width, and which is
not so large, even once in half a dozen of years, that it may not be
forded. In the last Statistical Account, mention is made of four cir-
cular encampments, popularly called Castles, the use of which seems
to have been to afford temporary security to the inhabitants and
" Sir David Menzies, laird of one half of the barony of Culter in Lanarkshire, gave
the whole of his part of the land called Wolfclyde to the convent (of Melrose) in
1431. After the Reformation this land came into the possession of Sir William Men-
zies of Gladstones." Morton's Monastic Remains, p. 270. It is worth remarking that
the lands of Wolfclyde, now a part of Hartree estate, pay a few shillings annually to
the Duke of Buccleuch, in right of the Abbey of Melrose, of which his Grace is Lord
of Erection.
* Wodrow's History, Vol. ii. page 349.
f Morton's Monastic Remains of Tcviotdale, p. 144.
346 LANARKSHIRE.
their cattle in times of civil or predatory warfare. And to these may
be added two round mounds or moats., one at Wolf- Clyde, and one
at Bamflat, anciently employed as watch-towers and signal posts.
A chain of these artificial mounds can easily be traced all along
the vale, running between the Clyde and Tweed, and from these
the inhabitants of the one district telegraphed to those of the other,
when danger was near.
In the midst of a morass, half a mile north-east from the farm
of Nisbet, may be seen a very singular remnant of antiquity. A
mound of an oval shape, called the Green Knowe, measuring about
thirty yards by forty, rises about two or three feet above the sur-
face of the surrounding bog. On penetrating into this elevated
mass, it is found to consist of stones of all different kinds and sizes,
which seem to have been tumbled promiscuously together without
the least attempt at arrangement. Driven quite through this su-
perincumbent mass, are a great number of piles, sharpened at the
point, about three feet long, made of oak of the hardest kind, re-
taining the marks of the hatchet, and still wonderfully fresh. A
causeway of large stones connects this mound with the firm ground.
All around, it is nothing but soft elastic moss; and beneath it
too, — for on cutting through the bed of stones you immediately
meet with moss. No vestige of lime has ever been found near the
place. The spot was probably chosen for concealment or protec-
tion to man or cattle, perhaps to both. The thick stratum of loose
stones would afford firm footing, — the oaken piles driven through
the bed of stones would consolidate them, and hold them together
like a pavement ; whilst the surrounding marsh would keep off the
aggressor. Near the spot are the remains of some very large trees.
Suppose the whole morass to have been a wood, might not the
cattle during a sudden foray have been driven into this encamp-
ment as a place of concealment ? For who would think of search-
ing for them in a moss ? All this, however, is conjecture, and con-
jecture for which there will soon be no data. The mound for many
years has been used as a quarry ; hundreds of cart loads of stones
have been taken from it, and at this date the work of demolition
goes on.
III. — POPULATION.
Culter proper being in Lanarkshire, and the part of Kilbucho
annexed being in the county of Peebles, the population of each is
here given separately.
cuLTEa. 347
In 1755, the population of Old Culler was 422
In 1791, 3-26
In 1801, ... . - - - 369
In 1811, 415
In 1821, - - "?- ... 467
In 1831, 497
Of these 175 were found to live in the village of Culter, and
the remaining 322 in the country part of the parish.
In 1811, the population of the Kilbucho part of the parish was 183
In 1821, ICO
In 1831, - - w - - - .'- - - 171
In Culter.
Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 8
women, including widows, upwards of 45, £0
In the Kilbucho part of the parish.
Number of unmarried men bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50, 0
women, including widows, upwards of 45, 2
In 1831, the population of the united parish was 668. The
average number of births yearly for the last seven years, according
to the public register, is 9£ ; but many are not registered. The
average number of deaths for the same period is 5^ ; and of mar-
riages 5. The average number of children in a family is 4, if
we take account only of those families where children actually re-
side ; but if we include all the families in the parish the average
number of each family is 3. There is one fatuous person and one
blind; and seven proprietors of land whose respective properties
exceed the yearly sum of L. 50.
Character of the People. — The people are of sober and indus-
trious habits, respectful to their superiors, and kind and obliging in
their intercourse with each other. With few exceptions, they are
regular in their attendance on public worship, and the other ordi-
nances of religion ; and a thoroughly profligate or reckless person
is not to be found among them. No lover of his country, however,
ean fail to deplore the growing prevalence of an evil which was
comparatively unknown to our forefathers, the unlawful intercourse
of the sexes, especially among the poorer and more dependent
classes of the community. There were four illegitimate births in the
parish during the last three years. The writer would by no means
insinuate that this vice is peculiarly prevalent here. But it does pre-
vail in this parish in common with the other parishes of the bounds,
and it is to be feared of Scotland generally : And it is an evil omen
of the times, and threatens ere long to bring down the common people
of Scotland from that high station of respectability and moral worth
which they have occupied so long, and which perhaps never has been
attained by the people of any other nation. The Christian philan-
thropist hopes that true religion may be on the increase ; but the
348 LANARKSHIRE.
hope is damped by the consideration, that " the Wisdom which
cometh down from above is first pure."
IV. — INDUSTRY.
The tables under this head are again given separately, in order
that it may be seen what portion of the parish lies in Lanarkshire,
and what in the county of Peebles.
Agriculture and Rural Economy. —
Old Culter contains 9950 imperial acres, of which there are either cultivated or occa-
sionally in tillage, , ....... 2671
Of lands which never have been cultivated, and which remain constantly in
pasture there are ....... 6871
Acres in a state of undivided common, ..... Q
Acres planted are, . . , . . 408
The Kilbucho part of the parish contains 1597 imperial acres, Of these there
are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, .... 1319
Of lands which never have been cultivated and which remain constantly in pas-
ture, there are . . . ... . . t . . 251
Acres in a state of undivided common are 0
Acres planted are, ........ . * . 27
In the united parish, there are still perhaps from 100 to 200
acres which might be profitably brought under the plough.
Rent of Land, Wages^ Sec. — There is great diversity in the qua-
lity, and consequently in the rent of arable land. Whilst some of
the better sort might be let as high as L. 4 or perhaps L. 5 per
acre, a still greater proportion would scarcely bring 15s. ; but the
average may be given at L. 1, 3s. The average rent of grazing
is at the rate of L. 3 per cow or full-grown ox ; L. 2 per head of
young cattle ; and 5s. 6d. per ewe or full-grown sheep. Wages are
the same as in the neighbouring parishes.
Breeds of Cattle. — The sheep with which our hills are pastured
are of the short or black-faced kind. No other kind has ever been
tried, as the grounds are reckoned too hard and bare for rearing a
finer species. They are all regularly smeared with tar and oil at the
approach of winter. The horses are mostly of the Clydesdale, and
the cows of the Ayrshire breed. Upon this latter kind of stock a
very great improvement has been made of late years. Till very
lately the cows in this district were neither of the Teeswater,
Ayrshire, nor of any regular and approved breed, but a mixture of
all the different kinds ; but now a fine animal is known and appre-
ciated, and consequently the inferior kinds are rapidly disappearing.
This amelioration of stock we owe in a great measure to a Farmer's
Society instituted in Biggar, which has an annual competition, at
which stock of all the different kinds is exhibited, and prizes duly
awarded.
Husbandry. — Whilst our farmers have been improving their
CULTER. 349
live stock, they have not been stationary in the improvement of
their lands. Their farms are managed pretty much on the com-
mon rotation plan, viz. first oats, then green crop, then barley, then
hay, and lastly pasture, which last is allowed to continue for one,
two or more years, according to the quality of the land. Lime,
which is driven from a distance of seven miles, is plentifully applied,
and on new land yields a rich return. It seems to be generally
agreed, however, that, when repeatedly applied to the same field, its
effect is greatly diminished, and the farmer sees more and more the
necessity of resting his land. Big or bear is fast disappearing, and
barley coming in its place. Till the last two or three years, there
was not a field of wheat in the parish, but now there is scarcely any
farm, however small, where it is not to be seen. Draining in all
its different branches is duly attended to. The sheep-walks have
been dried with surface-drains, and much wet land reclaimed and
rendered arable by those of the ordinary kind. The late Mr Sim
of Cultermains, erected an embankment along the Clyde nearly
\\ mile in length, which cost upwards of L. 1000; and calculated
that he had, on that part of his property which he retained in his
own possession, underground drains extending to the length of 35
miles.
Leases, Farm-Buildings, §*c. — The leases all over this part of
the country are of nineteen years duration, — a term which seems to
give satisfaction both to landlord and tenant. The farm-houses
and offices are in general commodious, and enclosures are nume-
rous and increasing.
Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in
Old Culter, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : —
Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or domestic animals,
including straw, ... L. 5236 15 5
Of potatoes, turnips, cabbages, and other plants cultivated in the fields
for food, - - - - 1 1 77 0 0
Of hay, whether meadow or cultivated, 1032 3 4
Of land in pasture, rating it at L. 3 per cow or full-grown ox ; L. 2 per
head of young cattle ; and 7s. per ewe or full-grown sheep, including
the fleece, - - .... 2829 8 0
Of gardens and orchards, - - - 80 0 0
Miscellaneous produce not enumerated under any of the foregoing heads, 119 0 0
Total yearly value of raw produce raised in Old Culter, L. 10,474 6 9
The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the Kilbucho
part of the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : —
Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man, or domestic ani-
mals, including the straw, - . L. 2894 12 8^
Of potatoes, turnips, cabbages, and other plants cultivated in the
fields for food, - . • 553 0 0
Of hay, whether meadow or cultivated, - '+'•*• . '• :- "- -"••' 341 10 0
350 LANARKSHIRE.
Of land in pasture, rating it at L. 3 per cow or full grown ox ; L. 2
per head of young cattle j and 7s. per ewe or full-grown sheep, in-
cluding the fleece, - - 709 9 0
Of one garden, . . .... 30 0 0
Miscellaneous produce not enumerated under any of the foregoing heads, 47 0 0
Total yearly value of raw produce raised in the Kilbucho part of
parish, L. 4575 11 8£
The gross annual produce of the united parish, therefore, is
L. 15,049, 18s. 5jd. ; and the gross rental, as nearly as can be com-
puted, is L. 5210.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Market- Town. — Biggar is the market-town and the post-town of
the district. The two parishes are contiguous, and the village of
Culter is distant from the town of Biggar nearly three miles.*
Village. — There is but one village, and, as has been already stat-
ed, it contains only 175 persons. It is pleasantly situated close
upon Culter water. The houses are scattered along the stream, in-
terspersed with fine old trees, neatly built, and in many instances
adorned with honeysuckle, and flowering shrubs. It has its mill,
its smithy, and small grocer's shop, and altogether presents a very
pleasing aspect to the passenger. The turnpike road from Dum-
fries to Edinburgh lies through its centre by an excellent bridge,
built a few years ago.
Means of Communication. — The Dumfries road now mentioned
is carried through the parish for the space of nearly four miles ;
and the parish roads are kept in good repair. Where there are hills
the roads must often be uneven, and such is the case here ; but no
pains are spared to render them smooth and dry. The parish roads
are about ten miles long.
Ecclesiastical State.-^ — The church, which was built in 1810,
and contains 350 sitters, is situated conveniently enough for the
bulk of the people.j Within it is sufficiently commodious, but
the exterior is plain and tasteless, which is the more to be regret-
ted, as the beautiful site and splendid trees amid which it stands,
would have done ample justice to a handsomer building. The
* Culter is distant from Edinburgh 30 miles, from Glasgow 36, from Lanark 11,
and from Peebles 17.
•f Chalmers in his " Caledonia" says, that " Richard, the parson of Culter, witnes-
sed a charter of Hugh de Biger on the 14th of February 1228-9, and he appears as
parson of Culter before that time. In 1296, Mestre de Tillol, the parson of Culter,
swore fealty to Edward I. Thomas de Ballasky was rector of the church of Culter
in 1388. George Shoreswood was one of the King's clerks, and rector of Culter in
the reign of James II." And we learn from the same authority, that " at the Refor-
mation this benefice was held by Mr Archibald Livingston, who reported in 1562
that the revenues of the parsonage and vicarage of Culter wereleased by him for 100
merks yearly."
J None of the seats are paid for, but none are common, they being divided among
the heritors according to their respective valuations.
CULTER. 351
manse was built in 1774, and is still in a state of very good re-
pair. It has an orchard in front, and a steep hill covered with
wood to the top, behind, and is the very beau ideal of a quiet par-
sonage. The glebe consists of 8 or 8J acres of excellent land ;
is well enclosed all around, and might be let for about L. 25. The
stipend is L. 208 in money, with twelve bolls, three firlots of oat-
meal, and the interest of L. 282, 12s. lodged in the Royal Bank
of Scotland. This latter sum is the half of the price obtained for
Kilbucho glebe when that parish was suppressed. By order of the
Court of Session it must lie in the bank till it can be invested in
land contiguous to the glebe of Culter. In the meantime the in-
terest forms an item in the living. The families presently in con-
nection with the Establishment are 100; the average number of com-
municants yearly is 290, and the average number of young persons
admitted to the communion for the first time is 12. The dissent-
ing families are 23, partly connected with the Relief, and partly
with the United Secession church. There is neither chapel nor
dissenting meeting-house of any kind. The Dissenters attend their
respective places of worship in Biggar, to which, indeed, a great
proportion of this parish are nearer than to their own parish church.
Collections have been made in the church from time to time, in
support of the Infirmary of Edinburgh, the Assembly's Schools,
Bibleand Missionary Societies, and for other charitable and religious
purposes, the amount of which may be estimated at L. 5 yearly.
Education. — The parochial school is the only one for general
education. On it, however, the Kilbucho part of the parish is no-
ways dependent. It has still a school of its own : for the legal man-
date that swept away the church spared the school.* In the school
of Culter are taught Greek, Latin, practical mathematics, and
geography, besides the more ordinary branches of education. The
teacher's salary is L. 34, 4s. with a small garden ; and as the quar-
ter fees bring about L. 20, his income, exclusive of the dwelling-
house, is rather more than L. 54. No part of the parish is so dis-
tant as to prevent the attendance of the young, and there is not
an individual upwards of six or seven years of age who is unable
to read. It may also be mentioned, that a Sabbath school is con-
ducted by the writer of this article and the schoolmaster, which is
attended by an average number of scholars of about thirty-five. Con-
* At the election of the present schoolmaster of Kilbucho the minister of Brough-
ton objected to the vote of the minister of Culter. A long dispute ensued, but the
matter being ultimately referred to the arbitration of Sir James Mongomery, Bart,
he gave a decision in favour of the minister of Culter, awarding to each of the two
ministers an equal vote in the election of schoolmaster for Kilbucho.
352 LANARKSHIRE.
nected with the Sabbath school is a small library but lately begun ;
and this is the only one in the place ; but the want is in some measure
supplied by the vicinity of Biggar, where there are several very good
libraries, and where books of all kinds may easily be found.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — At present, there are five regular
paupers on the roll. Of these two are very old women ; two wi-
dows with families, and one an old man with a family. They re-
ceive on an average L< 4, 10s. a-year, a sum which would be in-
adequate for their support were they totally incapacitated for la-
bour; but all of them can do something for themselves. — Besides
these, there are several others who receive occasional help from
the session, in the form of house-rents, coals, and small donations
of money. To meet this outlay, there are the church collections,
which average for the last seven years L. 32 a-year, with L. 4, 4s.
of yearly interest upon L. 105, the only lying fund belonging
to the poor. Hitherto these sources have yielded a sufficient sup-
ply without either assessments or extraordinary collections of any
kind. But how long this state of things may continue is uncer-
tain, as the reluctance to receive assistance from the public fund,
though slowly, is perceptibly on the decrease.
Bequests for the Education of the Poor. — The session have under
their management the following sums, the interest of which goes
to the education of poor children. 1. L. 18, understood to have
been mortified by the Rev. Anthony Murray, previously mention-
ed. 2. L. 40 mortified by William Nisbet, saltman in Biggar,
who died in 1820. 3. L. 100 mortified by the late David Sim,
Esq. of Cultermains, who died at London in 1834. This latter
bequest is for " the education and clothing of a boy or girl in the
parish of Culter, of poor and industrious parents."
Inns. — We have no public-house nor inn of any kind. The
heritors, seeing that nothing of the kind is needed, do not allow any
to be kept, by which wise resolution, whilst they do no injury to
the community at large, they lay this parish under very great ob-
ligations.
Fuel. — Almost the only fuel used is coal, driven from Douglas,
a distance of eleven miles, and costing 7s. 6d. per cart of four loads,
each load consisting of about three cwt.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
It appears from the last Statistical Account, that this parish was
in a forward state as far back as 1793. The writer of that account
tells us, that in the lowland part of the parish " the ground was
mostly either well enclosed with hedge and ditch, or covered with
CULTER. 353
thriving plantations ;" that " many thousand trees had also been
planted in different parts of the parish within the last seven or eight
years ;" that " the proprietors seemed to vie with each other in im-
provements;" and that u enclosed land was let at an average of
from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2 per acre." The improvements thus early
begun have been going on steadily and progressively ever since, as
will appear when we have mentioned some of the more remarkable
changes that have taken place within the period now referred to. Since
1791 the population has been increased by an addition of 171 ; the
rental has been nearly trebled ; a new church has been built ; a new
school and school-house, and a new bridge over Culter water.
Since then, an elegant mansion-house has been erected by Mr
Campbell of Cornhill. The wooden ploughs which were then in use
have almost totally disappeared, and their place been supplied by
others made of iron. The labour of hoeing has been greatly abridged
by the introduction of the drill harrow, an implement then alto-
gether unknown. The church collections have risen from L. 8 to
L. 32 annually ; farm-houses and cottages have been either re-
built or undergone a sufficient repair ; and agriculture in all its
branches is much better understood and more successfully prac-
tised. Plantations also have been greatly extended, and are still
extending ; and, with some exceptions referred to under a former ar-
ticle, are healthy and thriving. For many of these improvements,
the parish is indebted to the late John Dickson, Esq. of Hartree, the
principal landed proprietor within its bounds. He first introduced
many of the most approved modes of husbandry into this district,
at a time when the art was but little understood ; and gave an imT
pulse to a spirit for planting at a time when trees were indeed " few
and far between." Mr Dickson, having survived what Dr John-
son calls The frightful interval between the seed and the timber,
died in May last at a very advanced age. The heritors, who are
seven in number, are all resident with but one exception. The
advantages resulting from such a state of society must be obvious
to any one. Money is plentifully circulated ; regular employment
is given to tradesmen and labourers of every kind ; the church col-
lections are large, whilst the number needing parochial aid is com-
paratively small ; courtesy and good breeding are diffused on every
side ; the richer and poorer classes are brought into frequent and
intimate intercourse with each other; and that kindly bond of con-
nexion is formed between landlord and tenant, which constitutes
at once the happiness and strength of the country.
July 1835.
PARISH OF BIGGAR.
PRESBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE.
THE REV. JOHN CHRISTISON, MINISTER.
• I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name and Boundaries. — IN ancient charters, the name is gene-
rally written Biger and sometimes Bigre. Its origin is very doubt -
ful, but probably, as Chalmers thinks, from the Scoto-Irish words
biff, thir, pronounced big'er, and signifying soft land. This de-
scription does not apply to the parish generally, nor even to the land
immediately around the town ; but the old castle of the family of
Biggar stood in the middle of a morass, and this circumstance,
which has evidently given rise to its own name Tfo^hall, may be
thought to justify the derivation now given of the name of the
parish.
Biggar is a border parish of Lanarkshire, on the south-east, where
it marches with the county of Peebles. It is bounded on the
south by Culter and Kilbucho ; on the east by Skirling ; on the
n orth by Dolphinton and Walston ; and on the west by Libberton.
Its length from the south-west, where it is washed for about 300
yards by the Clyde, to its north-eastern extremity, is 6 J miles. It
approaches the form of a triangle, and contains 11 J square miles,
or 5852 Scots acres.
Topographical Appearances. — There is a good deal of level land
in the parish, but generally speaking it is hilly. The hills are of
moderate elevation, sometimes half forming themselves into ridges,
but in general pretty much detached. Their near equality in point
of height, their gentle acclivities, round backs, and surfaces unbrok-
en by natural wood, rock, or torrent, preclude all picturesque ef-
fect, but they present nevertheless a very pleasing aspect. To-
wards the south, they subside into a plain of considerable extent.
This plain, which is the lowest land in the parish, is about 628 feet
above the level of the sea. The town, which stands on a gentle
elevation between it and the hills, is 695 feet, the ridge of heights
north-west of the town, 1260, and Bizzyberry, on the north-east,
1150. 1
BIGGAlt,
355
Climate. — From the elevated situation of the parish, we have ne-
cessarily a keen atmosphere and severe winters, yet from the dry-
ness of the soil, and from our being equally out of range of the
eastern haars and western rains, the climate of this parish is neither
so damp nor cold as that of many lower situations. Cold easterly winds
blow in spring, but the prevailing wind during the remainder of the
year is the south-west, which acquires great force as it passes through
the vale of Clyde, sometimes sweeping this parish with untempered
violence. The parish of Biggar used to suffer so much from autum-
nal frosts that the grain produced on some of the low-lying farms
could not be used as seed above once in four or five years. Since
1817, these frosts have almost entirely disappeared. One undoubt-
ed cause of this is the extensive draining of the low lands, which has
taken place since that time.
The following tables have been constructed from a book of daily
observations on the weather kept by Mr Alexander Watt, late te-
nant in Biggar mill. The hour of observation was nine o'clock in
the evening, the place 685 feet above the level of the sea, Longi-
tude 3° 26' W., Latitude 55° 37' N.
Monthly Mean Temperature.
1802,
1803,
1804,
1805,
1806,
1807,
Jan.
33°.42
32.16
37-93
34.80
33.45
35.48
Feb.
33°. 59
34.03
32.65
34 .7J
.?5 .82
33.50
Mar.
37°.32
38.16
36.03
38.90
37.38
33 .06
Apr.
41°.8C
42.46
38.20
41 .00
40.93
41 .53
May.
45°. 96
45.00
50.35
43.80
47.64
46.93
June.
50°. 46
51 .33
54 .03
50.50
52.26
50 .00
July.
51°.06
57.77
54.67
55.51
54.19
56.51
Aug.
55'.67
53.70
53.83
54 .IS
54.70
56.58
Sep.
50°.46
46.43
51 .5e
51 .60
51 .33
43 .H
Oct.
46°.70
43.10
45.54
41 .77
46.96
39 .61
Nov.
38°.23
35.96
38.36
41 .00
41 .76
29.54
Dec.
36°.25
35.83
32.06
•34.74
39 .45
?3 .67
Monthly Mean Height of the Barometer.
1802.
1803.
1804,
1805,
1806.
Jan.
29.70
29.97
29.70
29.54
29.CO
Feb.
29.57
29.89
.'iO.22
29.63
29.72
Mar.
29.95
30.20
29.84
29. HG
29.78
Apr.
30.07
29.97
29.93
29.87
2!). 59
May.
30.25
30.07
30.00
29.86
29.91
June.
29.97
30.17
30.20
W.21
30.30
July. \ Aug.
29.9130.09
31.2730.11
30.03 30.02
29.98 29.9.0
29.9930.00
Sep. \ Oct.
29.1629.84
30.2330.20
30.2229.81
30.1630.00
30.12130.02
Nov.
29.93
29.70
30.08
29.87
29.92
Dec.
29.8K
•29. 7C
29.95
29.90
29.88
Hydrography.— Biggar water rises on the north side of the pa-
rish, and when about two miles on its course passes the town of
Biggar, or rather divides it; for though the bulk of the town lies at
a little distance from the left bank, a large suburb has within the
last forty years sprung up on the right. To the traveller who en-
ters Biggar by the Carnwath road, this suburb presents a scene
decidedly picturesque,— houses perched on the brow of the steep
bank, others standing tower down on the declivity, — sloping gardens
below, the opposite bank crowned with lofty old trees, and Biggar
356 LANARKSHIRE.
water winding most circuitously along the bosom of the little val-
ley. On issuing from the town, Biggar water enters a fine open
vale, which includes the southern frontier of the parish, and extends
to the Clyde on the one hand, and the Tweed on the other. It
enters this vale about a mile and a-half from the Clyde, and after
receiving a small tributary which connects it with that river, pur-
sues its way to the Tweed. As the Clyde in high floods sends a
portion of its waters by this channel to the Tweed, Biggar water
may be said to unite these two great rivers. Indeed, the waters of
the one might all be conveyed without any great difficulty to the
other. The length of the vale which extends between them is 7
miles, and its descent 25 feet. Biggar water, from its rise to its
junction with the Tweed a little below Drummelzier, runs a course
of 9 miles. The only other stream worth mentioning is Candy-
burn, which rises in the north- east corner of the parish, divides it
for the space of 3 miles from Peebles-shire, and then falls into
Biggar water. The parish is well supplied with springs, but none
of them deserve particular notice.
Mineralogy. — There are neither coal, limestone, nor freestone in
the parish, the predominating rocks being varieties of the secondary
trap and porphyry series of Jameson, (whinstone of the peasantry.)
Of these Plutonian masses the following may be mentioned: green-
stone, amygdaloid, and porphyry. They are very untractable in
the hands of the mason, but when once built form an excellent
wall. Some fine pebbles and moss-agates are occasionally found
in the amygdaloid rock, but are confined to the south-west quarter
of the parish.
Soils. — There are probably about 1000 acres of clayey soil, which
are very open, and rest on an open substratum of clay or gravel.
That of which there is the greatest quantity in the parish, and
which prevails particularly on the higher grounds, is a light black-
ish soil, incumbent on rotten whin. The epithet deaf is often ap-
plied in the district to this kind of soil, and it seems much im-
proved by the stimulus of lime. There are probably about 2000
acres of this ; after which, there are pretty equal proportions of sand,
gravel, sandy loam, blackish loam, inclined to moss, and peat moss.
The whole arable land of the parish is well adapted to turnip hus-
bandry, and capable of being very easily drained where required.
Botany. — There is little interesting under this head. We have
no natural woods, deep ravines, or any of those localities so much
prized by the botanist, who will here feel but little tempted to
BIGGAR. 357
" Steal along the lonely dale,
In silent search, or climb the mountain rock,
Fir'd by the nodding verdure of its brow."
The following are the only plants not common everywhere,
which have been observed in the parish : — Anchusa sempervirens,
F.pilobium angustifolium, Ononis arvensis, Sambucus Ebulus, Ra-
nunculus Ficaria, Saxifraga granulata^ Genista anglica, Scrophu-
laria vernalis, and Veronica scutellata.
Some names of places, such as Carwood and Bizzyberry or Bushy-
berry (hill) would seem to indicate that woods had formerly exist-
ed which have long since disappeared. Considerable remains of
alder, oak, and birch, have also been dug out of the mosses, and
in many places hazel-nuts have been discovered several feet below
the surface. But whatever may have been the case formerly, the
soil seems but little congenial now to the growth of natural wood.
The lover of Scottish scenery will look in vain for the hazel copse,
or sloe-thorn thicket, or even for a patch of the trailing bramble.
The only underwood is furze, broom, and in one or two places the
wild rasp. This want of natural wood is in some measure com-
pensated by plantations, of which there are about 750 acres. An
erroneous notion once prevailed that the soil was best adapted to
the Scotch fir, and the consequence is, that by far too great a pro-
portion of the parish bristles with plantations of that unlovely tree.
A glance at the large and thriving hard wood trees at every farm
steading ought to have corrected this prejudice long ago ; but it is
now happily on the wane. In all the recent plantations, there is
•a due mixture of hard wood, which seems to make the same pro-
gress, in comparison with the resinous trees, as in other parts of
the country. The ash and elm are the decided favourites of the
soil, and next to these the beech and plane. The larch in gravel-
ly soils and exposed situations becomes corky in the heart, and
falls into premature decay.
A method of pruning trees has originated in this parish, which
well deserves public attention. Mr Gavin Cree, nursery-man in
Biggar, the author of this improvement, has explained it at length
in the third volume of the Quarterly Journal of Agriculture. His
plan is to apply the pruning-knife the third or fourth year after a
tree has been planted ; but all that is done for some years is short-
ening the lateral branches, and carefully suppressing all rivalry
with the main stem. When the tree has attained the height of fif-
teen feet, it is subjected for the first time to close pruning. The
lowest tier of branches is cut off the first year, another tier the se-
LANARK. A a
358 LANARKSHIRE.
cond, and so on, care being taken that not more than a single tier,
and that always the lowest, be removed in any one season. This
annual pruning goes on till about three-fifths of the whole height
of the tree are cleared of branches, when the process is complete.
It has been found that this method of pruning has the following
advantages over that in common use : It brings the tree to a great-
er height in a given time, enabling it, the author avers, to keep
pace with the fastest-growing resinous trees. It causes it to make
more timber in the trunk, instead of dissipating its strength among
useless branches. It is so gradual a process that it does not en-
feeble the growth of the tree, but enables it to cicatrize its wounds,
and thus make finer wood. And finally, it enables it to afford
more shelter, from the numerous branchlets and leaves thrown out
by the lateral pruning. *
Zoology. — Of quadrupeds, the hedgehog, rabbit, polecat, squir-
rel, and weasel are common. The ermine is rather scarce. The
badger and otter are seen, but very rarely. The following birds
are common : — the sparrow-hawk, merlin, long-eared, brown, and
barn owl, wild and teal duck, woodlark, fieldfare, goldfinch, bull-
finch, gray, green, and rose linnet, redpole, common titmouse,
gold-crested wren, lapwing, curlew, heron, common bunting, stone-
chat, stank hen, black and red grouse, pheasant, woodcock. The
black-cock has become abundant of late years. The water-crow
is in small numbers. The starling used to be scarce, but has built
for the last two years on the tower of the church. The king-
fisher, redstart, goat-sucker, snow-flight, long-tailed titmouse, and
coot are scarce. The quail has been seen, but not for many years.
A bittern was shot five years ago on Biggar moss, but none have
appeared since. The raven is occasionally seen passing to his
haunts on Tinto. The moss-cheeper, muftin, and whitewing are
three birds so called in this parish, which cannot be identified with
any of acknowledged names.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Historical Notices. — The battle of Biggar is celebrated by
Blind Harry, but not mentioned by any other historian. It is said
to have taken place between the English under Edward I. and the
Scots under Wallace, and to have ended in a great victory over
the invaders. Appearances still exist, and traditions float among
* For notices and commendations of Mr Cree's system of pruning, see Quarterly
Journal of Agriculture, Vol. iii. p. 308 ; Sir Henry Stewart's Planters' Guide, second
edition ; and particularly Professor Low's Elements of Agriculture p. 388.
BIGGAR. 359
the people of the district, which leave little doubt of the engage-
ment. Blind Harry says it was fought on marshy ground, and
tradition points to a low-lying field south-east from Biggar, where
pieces of broken armour have often been gathered. The remains
of a camp are also to be seen at no great distance. The English
are said to have approached the field by Cors-Cryne, and the
Scots from their encampment on Tinto. Wallace, it is told, some
time before the battle, gained admission to the enemy's camp, dis-
guised as a cadger offering to sell provisions. By this means, he
ascertained their strength and position, but had no sooner depart-
ed than suspicion rose, and he was instantly pursued. On reach-
ing a bridge over Biggar water, at the west end of the town, he
turned on his pursuers, and putting the foremost to death made
good his escape. There is still a foot bridge over the stream to the
west of Biggar, which has been called from time immemorial " the
cadger's brig." On the north side of Bizzyberry, are a hollow
rock and a spring called Wallace's seat and Wallace's well.
Biggar was probably the rendezvous of the Scots army, which
under Sir Simon Frazer achieved the victory at Roslin in 1302.
It is at least certain that the army marched from Biggar to Ros-
lin during the night previous to the battle.
When Edward II. invaded Scotland in 1310, penetrating
through Selkirk to Renfrew, he spent the first six days of October
in Biggar.
When the Scots army, after Cromwell's victory in Fife in 165.1,
marched to England by Biggar, Leslie, according to Whitelock,
" summoned Bigger, and the governour returned a resolute an-
swer, that he kept it for the commonwealth of England." The
place thus summoned must have been Boghall jCastle, which was
in 1651 garrisoned by the English. As Cromwell followed the
tract of the Scots army, he" would probably halt some time at Biggar.
In 1715, Lockhart, younger of Carnwath, raised a troop in this
neighbourhood for the service of the Pretender, which after ren-
dezvousing some time at Biggar, went to Dumfries, and joined
Lord Kenmure.
Family of Fleming. — The manor of Biggar was given by David I.
to Baldwin, a Flemish leader, whose descendants, though locally
designed of Biggar, retain to this day the original surname of Flem-
ing. Baldwin was Sheriff of Lanark in the reign of Malcolm IV.
and it has been supposed that this office became for some time he-
reditary in his family. The Flemings of Biggar appear to have
360 LANARKSHIRE.
obtained an earlier footing in this county than ever the more cele-
brated race of Douglas; for between 1147 and 1160, Baldwin de
Biger witnessed the charter granting the lands on Douglas water
to Theobald the Fleming, the founder of the Douglas family. In
1341, David II. formed the whole county of Wigton into an earl-
dom, and bestowed it on Sir Malcolm Fleming, a cadet of the fa-
mily of Biggar, but it afterwards fell by inheritance into the main
branch. This family also acquired in 1357, certain lands within
the barony of Lenzie, and in 1382, that whole barony, including
the parishes of Cumbernauld and Kirkintilloch. In 1606, the
earldom of Wigton was erected anew, and conferred on them by
James VI. The title being limited to heirs-male became extinct
on the death of Charles the eleventh earl in 1747. The estates
of Biggar and Cumbernauld went to his daughter, Lady Clemen-
tina Fleming, the wife of the Honourable Charles Elphinstone,
who succeeded his father as Lord Elphinstone in 1757. In con-
sequence of an entail made in 1741, those estates went to her se-
cond grandson, the Honourable Charles Elphinstone Fleming, the
present possessor of the estate of Cumbernauld, and of a small
portion of that of Biggar. The rest of the latter property was
sold a few years ago, — the entail of 1741 having been set aside by
act of Parliament ; but the patronage of the church and superiority
of the lands were retained.
Ecclesiastical History. — The first event of any interest under
this head was the foundation of a chaplain ry in the parish church
of Biggar, under the following unhappy circumstances : John Lord
Fleming, Chamberlain of Scotland, went a hawking on the 1st of
November 1524, when he was attacked and murdered by John
Tweedie of Drummelzier, James Tweedie, his son, and several ac-
complices. After a delay of some years, this affair was submitted
to arbiters, who decreed that a certain assythment in lands should
be given to Malcolm Lord Fleming, the son of the murdered Lord.
In obedience to another part of the decreet, Tweedie, the princi-
pal assassin, on the 10th August 1531, granted in mortmain L.10
yearly from the lands and barony of Drummelzier, for the support
of a chaplain " who shall pray and sing mass for the salvation of the
soul of the deceased John Lord- Fleming in the parochin church
of Biggar."
Biggar was one of the five collegiate churches in Lanarkshire.
According to the writ of foundation, dated 16th January 1545, " Mal-
colm Lord Fleming, to the glory and honour of the High and Un-
BIGGAR. 361
divided Trinity, the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost, and
the Immaculat Virgin Mary, mother of our Lord, for the safety of
the soul of King James V. late King of Scotland, of most worthy
memory, and for the safety of the Cardinall Legat's soul, and for
the safety of his own soul, and Joan Stewart, his wife, sister to the
said seren King, and for the souls of his parents, benefactors,
friends, and kinsmen, predecessors and successors, and of all faith-
ful deceast, and principally for the souls of those from whom he
had taken goods unjustly or don injury unto, and had not satis-
fied and compensed either by wakes, prayers, or pryce, did found,
date, and effectually erect a colledge or collegiate church, with
the collegial honor, dignity, and pre-eminency, for one provost,
eight canons, and prebends, and four boys having children's voyces,
and six poor men — bestowing upon the provost the rents, fruits, and
emoluments of theparochin and parish church of Thankertoun, with
the manse and glebe thereof, he always supplying the charge there
by another." It appears that the church of Thankertoun, which
was thus annexed to the collegiate church of Biggar by Lord Flem-
ing, was given up to him by the abbots of Kelso for that purpose.
They had received the right of patronage of Thankertoun from
his predecessors ; but having learned his intention of building a
collegiate church at Biggar, and " considering that all of them in
these evil times, in the encreas of Lutheranism, were obliged to
contribute to so good a work, again transferred to Malcolm Lord
Fleming, in name of the colledge to be founded and built by him,
the right of patronage of the church of Thankertoun."
The abbot of Holy rood also granted to the collegiate church
of Biggar, the right of patronage of the perpetual vicarage of the
parish church of Dunrod, in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright, on
the 5th May 1555.
The church of Biggar, built in 1545, served both as the colle-
giate and parochial church. It still serves as the parish church,
and is in very good repair. It was built in form of a cross. The
body of it is complete, but the spire was left unfinished, owing pro-
bably to the breaking out of the Reformation, when it was in pro-
gress. Though time has scarcely touched this venerable struc-
ture, it has otherwise suffered some cruel mutilations. The ves-
try, a fine flag-roofe4 building, communicating with the chancel,
the large porch at the western door, the buttresses on the north
wall of the nave, the arched gateway at the entrance to the church-
362 LANARKSHIRE.
yard — all these were coeval with the church, and in equally good
preservation, but were taken down about forty years ago, and the ma-
terials sold for seven pounds to assist in pay ing some parochial expen-
ses. About the same time, the organ gallery was removed, and the
richly carved and gilt oaken ceiling of the chancel taken down, and
replaced with another of lath and plaster. It seems the ceilings of
the other aisles were of this description, and a taste for uniformity
proved fatal to one of the chief ornaments of this ancient building.
In Bagimont's roll, the rectory of Biggar in the deanery of Lanark
was taxed L. 6, 13s. 4d. At the Reformation the benefice of the
parsonage and vicarage of Biggar was reported at L. 100 yearly.
In the scarcity of ministers after the Reformation, Walter Hal-
dane, the minister of Biggar, also served in 1586 the three neigh-
bouring parishes of Culter, Symington, and Lamington.
Parochial Registers. — There is a register of births from 1730
to the present date. There is no register either of marriages or
deaths. Parents are remiss in registering the births of their chil-
dren. There are minutes of the kirk-session from 1730 to 1735,
and from 1757 to 1759. From the last date to the present, there
is no record whatever of their proceedings, if we except the mi-
nutes of annual meetings held to examine the state of the poors'
funds.
Antiquities. — There is a large moat at the west end of the town,
120 paces round at the base, 54 at top, and 36 feet high.
The laws may have been administered from this artificial hill, but
it seems also to have served as a beacon-tower, and to have been
one of a chain extending between the vales of Clyde and Tweed,
and intended to give warning of any hostile incursion. On Dreva,
Craig-end, Burnetland, and Castlehill in Symington, there are re-
mains of works which were probably used for the same purpose ;
and these, with the moats at Bomphlet, Biggar, Woolfe- Clyde, and
Roberton, complete the communication. About half a mile south-
west from Biggar are the remains of a camp, 60 paces in diameter,
with a deep ditch and double rampart. The ditch is 3 paces wide,
and the rampart in some places from 6 to 8 feet high. There is
also a camp on a height near Candybank, with double ditches
and ramparts. It is of an oval form, 42 paces by 30 within the in-
ner rampart, the distance between this and the outer being 9 pa-
ces. A camp of a similar form, 54 paces long, and 42 broad, is
still visible on Bizzyberry. Fortifications of some sort may also be
BIGGAR. 363
traced on iher west side of that hill. Similar remains appear on
the hill above Lindsaylands. Some of these smaller supposed camps
were probably nothingmore than fortified cattle-folds, into which the
flocks were driven on the approach of the southern reivers. Four
large stones, which seem from their position to be the remains of a
Druidical circle, stand on the top of a round hill on the lands of
Oldshields, now added to Biggarshields. Several arrow-heads of
flint were lately found near these stones. Two vessels of Roman
bronze, and evidently of Roman manufacture, were found in a moss
on the lands of Carwood. One of them, which holds about 2 quarts,
and has a handle and three legs, is in the possession of Mr Brown
of Edmonston. The other is of a squatter form, and holds about 8
quarts. When Biggar Cross-know, a small eminence in the middle
of the town, was removed a few years ago, a gold coin of the Emperor
Vespasian was found in excellent preservation. But by far the finest
object of antiquity of which this parish could boast was the remains
of the old castle of Boghall. These fine ruins, standing near the
middle of a beautiful vale, lent a most interesting feature to the
landscape; but they now serve a very different purpose, having been
recently demolished to furnish materials for farm buildings, dikes,
and the like. A small corner tower or two still mark the place
where they stood.
Eminent Men. — There are not a few names of note connected
by birth or otherwise with the parish. The late Dr A. Brown, Pro-
fessor of Rhetoric in the University of Edinburgh, and one of the
ministers of that city, was a native of Biggar. ' So also is Robert For-
syth, Esq. the eminent counsel. — The superior and patron of the
parish is the Honourable Admiral Fleming, well known for his
patriotic character, and for the many important commands he has
held in the service of his country. The Admiral is at present
Commander-in- Chief at the Nore. — Another of our proprietors is
the Honourable Mountstuart Elphinstone, a name dear to the
cause of civilization in the east. He is well known to the world
by his interesting account of the Kingdom of Caubul ; and his en-
lightened and benevolent policy when Governor of Bombay, and
subsequently of Madras, will ever form one of the fairest pages in
the somewhat chequered history of British India. It may be ad-
ded, that John A. Mnrray, Esq. the present Lord Advocate of
Scotland, and the Rev. Dr Dickson of St Cuthberts, are connect-
ed, by the holding of property, with this parish.
364 LANARKSHIRE.
Land-Owners.
Scots Valued Real
acres. rent. rent.
Lawrence Brown of Edmonston, 1140 L.353 6 8 L 663 0 0
Heirs of the late Joseph Stainton of Biggarshields, 1132 400 00 612 0 0
George Gillespie of Biggar Park, 288 397 18 7 491 0 0
Robert Gray of Carwood, 936 204 13 96 254 0 0
Heirs of the late Samuel Paterson of Lindsaylands, 299 250 00 218 0 0
Thomas Edmonston of Cambus- /
Wallace, - - - 263 140 10 0 249 0 0
John A Murray of Langlees, - 214 238 0 3 6 216 0 0
Hon. Mountstuart Elphinstone of Foreknows, 106 2321? 4 208 0 0
Rev. David Dickson of Persilands, - 180 107 0 0 200 0 a
Thomas Murray of Heavyside, - 258 186 1? 6 192 0 0
Robert Craig of Little Well, - 44 531710 160 0 0
William Murray of Spittal, - - 212 11520 150 00
Heirs of John Liddel of Easter Toftcombs, 130 86 15 7 3 123 0 0
John Wyld of Springfield, - - - 152 31 4 7 120 0 0
William Watson of W. Toftcombs, 86 56 13 4 115 0 0
David Maclagan of Stane, - - «2 109 13 4 100 0 0
John Forest of E. Toftcombs, - 58 34 15 1 83 0 0
Thirty-eight other proprietors of land under L. 50
of yearly rental each, - - 292 324 10 09 517 0 0
5852 L.3323 7 0 L.46?l 0 0
Modern Buildings. — Edmonston, a castellated house of impos-
ing appearance, after a design by Mr Gillespie Graham, is beauti-
fully situate in a secluded valley near the east end of the parish.
Biggar Park, and Cambus- Wallace, are both pleasant residences in
the immediate neighbourhood of Biggar. A large mansion-house
was built on Carwood in 1832, and when the young wood around
it is farther advanced will be an ornament to the country.
III. — POPULATION.
Amount of the population in 1755, - 1098
1791, - 962
1801, - 1216
1811, - 1376
1821, - 1727
1831, - 1915
The number of families in the parish is JtQ4
chiefly employed in agriculture, - 58
in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 222
not engaged in any of these employments, - ___124_
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — The parish contains 5852 Scots acres. The town
occupies about 30 of these ; 750 are planted, and 400 of hilly
ground are too steep to be cultivated with advantage. There are
about 100 acres of moss, all in the course of improvement, with the
exception of about 35 acres belonging to the town. The remain-
der of the parish is either all arable, or may easily be made so.
Rent of land. — The average rent of arable land may be stated
at L. 1 per acre. Grass for a milch cow on the best land will cost
L. 4 ; a one-year-old may be grazed for L. 1, or on rather superior
land for L. 1, 5s ; a two-year-old for L. 1, 10s.
BIGGAR. 305
Breeds of Live-Stock. — The cattle in this parish are a cross be-
tween the Ayrshire and the native breed of the district. The Ayrshire
blood, however, predominates, and is becoming purer every year by
the constant introduction of new stock from the west, and by the
favourable effect of the annual cattle shew at Biggar. The Tees-
water breed has also been introduced to a small extent. A good
many sheep are scattered throughout the parish, but there is only
one flock of eleven score regularly kept up. They are of the old
Tweeddale breed.
Husbandry. — On the very best croft land the usual rotation is
1. oats ; 2. green crop ; 3. barley ; and 4. hay. But by far the most
general rotation is two crops of oats in succession ; 3. green crop ;
4. barley or oats ; 5. hay ; and then three, four, and sometimes five
years pasture. The dairy has become a great object of attention
of late years. Irrigation begins to be practised. Inclosing has
made great progress, and is still proceeding rapidly by stone dikes
on the higher grounds, and thorn hedges on the lower; but the lat-
ter are in general ill kept. The implements of husbandry are of
the most approved description. There are two mills for grinding
oats and barley. There are twenty-five thrashing machines, ten
of which are water-driven. One of these, constructed by Mr James
Watt, an ingenious mill-wright in Biggar, deserves particular men-
tion. The water-wheel is 50 feet below the level of the barn or
machinery, and 120 feet distant from it, the two being connected by
shafts along an inclined plane ; a very useful contrivance where water
cannot be commanded except at a low level. This machine per-
forms remarkably well. — There is a bone-mill in the parish, at
which there is an extensive sale. There is besides this a portable
hand-mill for grinding bones kept by the inventor Mr Bell, brewer
in Biggar. It is worked by three persons who can grind 25 bu-
shels a-day. There are ground with it on an average 375 bushels
a-year, the bones being all collected in Biggar and the immediate
neighbourhood. Such an instrument might be useful in every small
town. One may be made for L. 3. A model of it is to be seen
in the Museum of the Highland Society, who awarded a premium
to the inventor. — The farm buildings in the parish are in general
good. On a farm belonging to Mr Gillespie of Biggar Park, of
195 Scots acres, and L. 300 of rent, a new steading was built in
1831, which cost the proprietor L. 1500, and the tenant L. 300 in
carriages. This is probably the most complete farm-steading in
the county.
A great deal of the land of this parish is in the hands of
366
LANARKSHIRE.
the proprietors, by whom it is either cultivated or let annual-
ly as grass parks. There are only twenty-two farms of con-
siderable size in the hands of tenants, any others being small
possessions let to persons who have some other employment be-
sides farming. The size of farms is an important feature in the
agriculture of a district. The following table will shew their extent
in this parish, as well as the average rent of land.
4
Farms.
Scots acres,
Rent, ster. L
200
140135
NO
40
y lull
166'4790
6060901100
15 Ib
130180
1 231-200
17
37917537
218.1551801
195
30(
Produce. — The following is the gross amount of raw produce
raised every year as nearly as it can be ascertained :
Acres.
1018 oats, at b\ bolls per acre, equal 5599 bolls at IGs. per boll, L.4479 0 0
147 barley, at 9 bolls per acre, equal 1323 bolls at 21s. per boll, * - 1389 0 0
203 rye-grass hay, at 125 stones per acre, equal 25375 stones at
6d. per stone, - - 1 26K 0 0
52 meadow-hay, at 180 stones per acre, equal 9360 stones at 3d. 117 0 0
36 pease, at 3£ bolls per acre, equal 126 bolls at 15s. per boll, - 94 0 0
16 wheat, at 9 bolls per acre, equal 135 bolls, at 24s. per boll, 162 0 0
18 naked fallow. ______
184 turnip, at L. 4, 10s. per acre, - 828 0 0
150 potatoes, at 30 bolls per acre, equal 4500 bolls at 5s. per boll, 1125 0 0
16 tares, at L. 4, 10s. per acre, 72 0 0
750 wood, the annual thinnings of which may amount to 30 0 0
3232 pasture, the gross produce of which may amount to 15s. per acre, 2424 0 0
Produce of gardens, ' - , - 40 0 0
Total yearly value of raw produce raised, - L. 12,028 0 0
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Town. — In 1451 James II. erected Biggar into a free burgh of
barony " with all privileges, and particularly a weekly market
on Thursday." New erections of it were made in 1526, 1588, 1634,
and 1662. Biggar is the seat of a Presbytery, and of the Court of
Justices, who meet four times a-year. It consists of one very wide
street, stands on rising ground, enjoys a fine southern exposure,
and might be a pretty little town if common sewers were provided
to drain away the nuisance which at present stagnates on the street.
In 1831 it contained 1454 inhabitants. It contains at present among
others 210 weavers, 28 shoemakers, 26 masons, 20 tailors, 14 join-
ers, 4 mill-wrights, 2 wheel-wrights, 2 coopers, 8 blacksmiths, 8
nailors, 2 tinsmiths, 4 watchmakers, 20 carters, 6 sawyers, 1 um-
brella-maker, 1 painter, 1 plasterer, 2 slaters, 5 saddlers, 7 ped-
lars, 1 veterinary surgeon, 1 nurseryman, 1 brewer, 16 spirit-deal-
ers, 5 of whom are innkeepers and the rest grocers, 9 bakers,
3 butchers, 8 cloth-merchants. There are four surgeons. Some
idea may be formed of the retail trade of Biggar by the following
quantities of excisable articles sold during the year ending 5th July
BIGGAR. 367
1835 : 2608 gallons British spirits, 80 gallons brandy, 136 gal-
lons ginger wine and other shrubs, 88 dozen foreign wine, 2528
Ibs. tea, 1876 Ibs. tobacco and snuff. Biggar has increased in
population, and improved very much in appearance of late years.
Four very handsome houses have been built in it this summer, and
only one of them on the site of an old one. There are 95 pro-
prietors of houses, and the rental of the whole houses, as estimated
for the laying on of the poors' rate, is L. 1350.
Means of Communication. — There is a post-office in Biggar. The
revenue arising from letters delivered has averaged L. 231, 10s. 3d.
for the last four years, while for the four preceding years it only
averaged L. 163, 3s. 8d. A coach from Edinburgh to Durnfries
passes through the town every alternate day, and one from Glas-
gow to Peebles daily during summer and autumn. The Edinburgh
and Dumfries mail also passes daily within four miles of the town.
There are three weekly carriers to Edinburgh, and one to Glas-
gow. Carriers from Hawick to Glasgow, and from Dumfries and
Sanquhar to Edinburgh, pass through Biggar once a-week, as also
one from Wigton to Edinburgh once a fortnight. The turnpike
road fromDumfries to Edinburgh by Thornhill, Linton, and Morn-
ingside, intersects this parish nearly at its greatest length, while
another turnpike branches off from it about the middle of the pa-
rish, and joins the Dumfries road to Edinburgh by Moffat, Noble-
house, and Libberton. The whole length of turnpike within the
parish is seven miles. During last year L.I 500 have been spent
in rendering it more level. — There are fourteen miles of parish
roads, which are kept in excellent repair. The expense of keep-
ing them up has averaged for the last three years L. 39, 13s. 3d. a
year. A new road from Biggar to Broughton is very much needed.
This would not only be a great convenience to the district, but were
it continued round Dreva, Craig-end, and close by the Tweed, to the
Crown ford, as has often been projected, the Glasgow and Peebles
road might then abandon the rugged hilly tract by Ellsrighill, and
Corsincon, and travelling down the banks of Biggar water and the
Tweed reach Peebles by a route as short and infinitely more le-
vel and agreeable than the present, — The road from Biggar to
Carnwath stands much in need of improvement. It ought to be
diverted so as to avoid the long ascents on both sides of Carwood
burn, — an object which might be accomplished by embankingit over
the hollow of the burn above the present ford, where two steep
banks approaching each other, and narrowing the intervening space,
invite the operation.
368 LANARKSHIRE.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church, though now 290 years
old, is in very good repair. In 1834 it received an addition to the
accommodation of 120 sittings, by the erection of a gallery, and was
at the same time new-seated. A division of the area also took
place last year, under direction of the Sheriff, when it was appor-
tioned among the landward heritors according to their valued rent.
The communion table affords 44 sittings, which are free. In a
certain sense, indeed, all the seats are free, none of them being let
for money, though in a few instances some small services, such as
shearing in harvest, &c. may be rendered by the occupants to the
proprietors. The church is conveniently situate, as there are not
more than four or five families who are above three miles.from it.
Divine service is well attended. The average number of commu-
nicants is 400.
The manse, which was built in 1805, and received an addition
in 1827, is a very good house. The glebe contains 10 acres, which
may be worth L. 30. The stipend is 17 chalders, half oatmeal
and half barley, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The
average amount of stipend for the last three years is L.239, 7s. 4r62d.
A congregation of Burghers was formed in this parish in 1760,
and still exists. Their chapel contains 450 sittings, 360 of which
are let. They give their minister L. 130 per annum. There is
also a Relief congregation, which was formed in 1780. Their cha-
pel contains 700 sittings, 320 of which are let. They pay their
minister L. 110 per annum. The members of these congrega-
tions are collected from fifteen different parishes. Of the 404 fa-
milies which this parish contained in 1831, 118 belonged to the
Relief congregation, 48 to the Burghers, and 236 to the Church.
Of the two remaining families one was Roman Catholic and the
other Cameronian.
Religious Societies. — A Bible Society was formed here in 1810,
since which time it has paid away L. 950. It used to be auxi-
liary to the British and Foreign Bible Society, but withdrew from
that body five years ago, and is now auxiliary to the Edinburgh
Bible Society. It consists indiscriminately of Churchmen and
Dissenters ; but there is also a Bible and Missionary Society, con-
sisting exclusively of Dissenters.
Education. — There is only one parochial school, which is very
ably conducted by Mr John Gray. The branches taught are,
English, writing, arithmetic, geography, Latin, Greek, French, and
mathematics. The average number of children attending the school
is 170. The number at present is 180, of whom 12 are learning La-
B1GGAR. 369
till, 6 Greek, and 8 French. The fees are, for English, 2s. 6d. per
quarter : English and writing, 3s., English, writing, and arithmetic,
3s. 6d., Latin, Greek, or French, 6s., for any two of these languages,
8s., and for all the three, 10s. The probable amount of school
fees is L. 80 per annum. The salary is the maximum. The house
affords more than the legal accommodation, but there is a defici-
ency of garden ground, for which an allowance is given of L. ], 14s. 3d.
Mr Gray keeps an assistant at his own expense, to whom he pays
L. 24 per annum. In 1767, William Law, skinner, Biggar, mor-
tified L. 41 Sterling, and in 1817, William Nisbet, saltman, Big-
gar, mortified L. 40 Sterling, the interest of both sums to be ap-
plied in educating poor children. In 1828, L. 20 were raised by
subscription, and expended in founding a library for the use of the
parish schools. An annual sermon has since been preached in be-
half of its funds, and a small contribution is occasionally made to
them by the scholars. The library now contains 250 volumes.
Some children who live near the east end of the parish are too
remote from Biggar to be able to attend the school, but they are
within easy distance of Skirling, or of a side school at Ellsrighill,
in the parish of Walston. There is an unendowed school in Big-
gar, attended by about 50 scholars, and at which the ordinary
branches are taught.
Literature. — A public library was instituted here in 1797, ano-
ther in 1800, and a third in 1807. The first contains 735 vo-
lumes, the second 503, and the third, which consists exclusively of
religious works, 680 volumes. Their aggregate number of sub-
scribers is 148, and their yearly income L. 20, 6s. A public read-
ing-room was attempted in 1828, but failed after languishing a year.
Newspapers are extensively read. Forty-five numbers of different
English and Scotch papers circulate through the parish weekly.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The poor of this parish were sup-
ported from 1730 to 1746 by church collections, and mortcloth
dues, by the rent of a house and small piece of land belonging to
the kirk-session, by the interest of L. 250 Sterling, which had ac-
cumulated in their hands, and by a legal assessment of L. 100
Scots, on the whole valued rent of the parish. From 1746 to 17QO,
there is no record of transactions regarding the poor. From 1760
to 1802, they were supported as during the former period, only
there was no assessment ; and the house and land were sold in 1774,
and the proceeds gradually expended in aid of the other funds.
In 1802, the assessment was resumed, and has continued ever
since. In 1802, also, the principal sum of L.250, already mention-
370 LANARKSHIRE.
ed, was encroached on, and by 1815 exhausted. Previous to 1 828,
the assessment was laid upon land only, according to the valued
rent, but since that time, houses as well as land have been as-
sessed, the real rent of both being taken as the rule, and a de-
duction of one-fourth being allowed, in estimating the rent of houses,
for the expense of repairs. Pauperism has certainly increased here
of late years. This has arisen in some measure from the depres-
sed state of the weaving trade, but still more, it is to be feared,
from the decay of the old independent spirit. During the year
ending in February 1835 there have been raised for the mainte-
nance of the poor,
By assessment at the rate of 6|d. on the rent of the whole lands and houses within
the parish, - _ L. 153 11 H
Kirk collections, - - ™. ' - - 12 18 119
Bell and mortcloth dues, - - - 6 8 96
Sale of the effects of deceased paupers, - - - - 2 19 10
Total receipt for the year ending in February 1835, - - L. 175 18 87
Expenditure,
35 Enrolled poor,* - ^ L. 145 11 0
Occasional do. - - - - - - 12 11 6
Vagrant ditto, belonging to other parishes. - - 114
Fees to collector and treasurer of assessment, Synod and Presbytery
clerks, and presbytery and church officers, » - - 9 2 6
New registration book and incidental expenses, . - 0173
Total disbursements for year ending in February 1835, L. 169 3 9
* It may be worth while to subjoin the following tabular view of the state of the
enrolled poor of the parish, for the year ending as above. It may furnish the means
of comparison with the scale of parochial relief in other parishes. The relations bound
to support are all grown up, unless where otherwise mentioned.
Ground of claim, other means of sup- Monthly al-
£ port, fyre'.ationsloundin law to support, lowance in Rent and Total for
^ Males. Money. Coals. Year.
79. Infirm, wife so too, lodges vagrants,
3 sons and 2 daughters, L. 0 5 0 L. 1 0 0 L. 4 0 0
85. Infirm, cannot work any, a son, 2 daugh-
ters, and a grandson, 060 1170 590
86. Bed-rid, lodges vagrants, 1 daughter, 060 110 4 13 0
66. Disabled by accident, can work none,
1 son and 2 daughters, - 040 110 390
55. Wants a leg, works a little, 1 son and
2 daughters, - 050100 400
78. Infirm, can work none, 1 son & daughter, 050 200 500
35. Disabled by accident, unable to work, 0100 000 600
40. An idiot, 168000 16 00
42. Diseased, has 2s. 6d. a week from a so-
ciety, 5 children, all young, - 000 200 200
Females.
50. Infirm, has an annuity of L.I, - 020 000 140
85. Infirm, can work none, 050 260 560
35. Weak in mind, works a little, - 050 00
65. Infirm, works a little, 1 son & 2 daughters, 046 16 0
63. Do. lodges vagrants, - 050 10
67. Do. works a little, 3 sons, - 050 10
57. Diseased & bed-rid, cannot work, 4 sons, 060 12 0 54'
70. Infirm, works very little, 1 daughter, 050 10 410
BIGGAR. 371
Friendly Societies. — There are four of these in the parish.
1st. institut. 1786, pres. stock L.660, memb. 220, 1st weekly allowance 5s. ; 2d. do 3s. fid.
2d. 1787, 250, 114, for 12 weeks, 4s., for rest of year, 3s.
3d. 1806, 1074, 288, 6s., 3s.
4th. 1806, 1V6, 111, 4s, 3s.
Of the 733 members of these societies, only 323 belong to this parish.
Inns and Alehouses. — There are five inns in the parish, and ten
grocers who are licensed to sell spirits. The effect of such a
number of public houses is in every respect pernicious.*
Banks. — A branch of the Commercial Bank was established
here in 1833, and is understood to be flourishing. A handsome
building is at present in course of erection for its accommodation.
A savings bank was instituted in July 1832. The depositors con-
sist chiefly of farm-servants. Their number at this date (August
1835) is 200, and the amount of deposits L. 1168.
Fairs. — There are three fairs held in Biggar, the Candlemas
fair, the Midsummer fair, and the old Biggar fair, held on the last
Thursday of October, old style. The first is a hiring market,
and very well attended. At the second, a little business is done in
wool. The third is for horses and black cattle.
85.
Infirm, can work none, 2 sons & 4 daughters, 0
5
0
0
12
0
3
12
0
92.
62.
Do. do. 1 daughter & 1 son,
In bad health, works stockings a little,
0
0
9
4
0
0
1
1
12
16
0
0
7
4
0
4
0
0
55.
A widow with 3 young children,
0
0
0
1
1
0
1
1
0
55.
Occasionally deranged,
0
5
0
1
7
0
4
7
0
55.
Do. works a little,
0
5
0
1
1
0
4
1
0
55.
Infirm, works a little, 1 son & 5 daughters,
0
3
6
0
0
0
2
2
0
68.
Do.
0
4
0
1
16
0
4
4
0
57.
Do. sews a little,
0
2
6
0
0
0
1
10
0
52.
Rather infirm,
0
0
0
2
0
0
2
0
0
60.
A lunatic,
0
17
0
0
0
0
10
4
0
55.
Infirm, lives with a daughter, 1 son,
0
2
6
0
0
0
1
10
0
52.
Do. works a little,
0
3
0
1
1
0
2
17
0
60.
Do. sells brooms, 1 daughter,
0
3
0
0
15
0
2
11
0
Families.
A brother and sister, the brother of weak
intellect, the sister an idiot,
0
10
0
2
0
0
8
0
0
An orphan boy and girl under 14,
0
8
4
0
0
0
5
0
0
L. 145 11 0
* It would be quite enough for the public convenience here, and in most places of
the same size, if the license were granted only to persons who keep stables and other
accommodations for travellers. At any rate, the grocers should be restricted from
allowing the spirits they sell to be consumed on their premises. As it is at present,
their shops are often infested with loiterers in all stages of drunkenness, — an exhibition
of the worst influence on young persons, and others who may have occasion to go
there. Another bad practice is the licensing of toll-keepers. Often shifting about,
they are less interested in maintaining a good character than the more stationary in-
habitants ; and in order to make the most of their short leases, and to eke out a high
rent, perhaps they are often tempted to encourage excess. In many places, however,
ten per cent, of additional rent is given for a toll-bar that is licensed, and while this is
the case, it will be very difficult to get the practice abolished. Candidates for ale and
spirit licenses are generally required to produce a certificate of character from the mi-
nister of the parish in which they reside, but in one instance in this district, where the
ministerial certificate was withheld from a toll-keeper on account of bad character, no
explanation of the circumstance was ever required from the minister, and yet the toll-
keeper found no difficulty in getting his license.
372 LANARKSHIRE.
Fuel. — Almost the only fuel used is coal from Ponfeigh, in the
parish of Douglas, which is about 1 4 miles distant from Biggar,
and sometimes, though more rarely, from Wilsonton, in the parish
of Carnwath. A cart-load of 15 cwt. is delivered in Biggar for
9s., that is 3s. 3d. for the coals at the mouth of the pit, lOd. for
tolls, and the remainder for driving. Peats, or rather turfs, called
rough-heads, are dug from a moss belonging to the town, and used
as fuel to the extent of about 400 carts yearly, but they are not
reckoned profitable.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Few parishes have been more improved than this since the date
of the last Statistical Account ; but there are two periods in the
history of its improvement which ought particularly to be noted.
In 1806 the late Mr Stainton bought Biggarshields, containing
'1132 Scots acres, and then all let as a sheep-walk for L. 150.
This lease expired in 1817, and during the years 1817, 1818,
1819, and 1820, he reclaimed 600 acres, drained extensively, erect-
ed 18 miles of stone dikes, planted 15 miles of thorn hedges, and
forest trees to the extent of 265 acres. The rental of the pro-
perty is now above L. 600, but two of the farms, consisting wholly
of land not formerly reclaimed, are let on improving leases for
trifling rents, and in the course of ten years, when these leases
shall have expired, the whole of the estate, with the exception of
100 acres too steep for cultivation, will be under the plough, and
the rental not less probably than L. 900.
In 1830 Mr Gray bought Carwood, containing 947 Scots acres,
since which time he has reclaimed 400, formed fifty inclosures by
stone dikes, thorn hedges, and turf fences, and planted in stripes
and clumps 210 acres. He has, besides this, built an excellent
mansion-house, and is engaged in improvements which will soon
treble the rental of his property.
The greatest improvement which can now be effected in this
parish is the deepening of Biggar water. Were it deepened two
feet for the space of four miles, that is, from Broughton Bridge to
Boghall, 500 acres of land on its banks, but not all in this parish,
would be improved L. 1 per acre. And as the operation would
not, in the opinion of competent judges, cost more than L. 500,
the expense would be repaid in the course of one year. There
are ten proprietors concerned, and it can only be ascribed to the
difficulty of acting in concert that such an improvement is delayed
for a day. The advantage which would result to the climate from
the draining of such a tract of marshy ground would be very great.
August 1835.
PARISH OF BUTHERGLEN.*
PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. PETER BROWN, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
THE royal burgh and parish of Rutherglen is situated in the
lower ward of the county of Lanark. It stands on the south bank
of the river Clyde, latitude 55° 51' 32" north, and longitude 4° 11'
84" west.
Name and Boundaries, <§rc. — The name of Rutherglen, or by con-
traction Ruglen, is said to be derived from King Reuther or Reu-
therus, the fifth in the genealogy of the Kings of Scotland from
Fergus I. This King, according to the Scottish historians, was the
son of Dornadilla, whose memory is still preserved in the name of
Dun-Dornadilla, a venerable ruin in Strathmore.
From Reuther or Reuda, as Bede calls him, the Scots were for
a long time called Dalreudini. He began to reign about the year
213 B.C. Having experienced the various changes of a war, by which
his army was greatly exhausted, he retired to the mountainous county
of Argyle, where he remained in peace for several years. Finding at
length that his forces, now greatly increased, were inflamed with the
love of war, he left his retirement, and by many successful attacks
upon the Britons, regained the ancient boundaries of his kingdom. It
appears from Wright's Inquiry into the Rise and Progress of Parlia-
ments, that Rutherglen was erected into a royal burgh in 1126 by
King David, and from the numerous subsequent royal charters narrat-
ed in Ure's History, it is evident that Rutherglen was originally a
place of great note; indeed, it seems probable, that, fora considerable
time after its erection into a royal burgh, it was superior to Glasgow
as a place of trade, the latter being chiefly occupied by churchmen.f
Its consequence, however, as a place of trade, has long been on the
* This article has been drawn up by James Cleland, LL.D. President of the Glas-
gow and Clydesdale Statistical Society, Fellow of the Statistical Society of London,
Member of the Society of Civil Engineers, London, Corresponding Member of the
Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, &c. &c.
•j- It would appear that the bishops burgh of Glasgow had been comprehended with-
in the original boundaries of the royal burgh of Rutherglen, and that in the year
LANARK. Bb
374 LANARKSHIRE.
decline. In 1692, as is elsewhere shown, it had neither foreign nor
home trade, while Glasgow had a part of both. It is remarkable
that two places so similarly situated, both on the banks of the Clyde,
and within two miles of each other, should, in the process of time,
become so very different. In 1831, the population of Rutherglen
was only 5503, while that of Glasgow had increased to 202,426. At
that period the former had no shipping, — whereas, the latter had
ships trading to all parts of the world, besides sixty-seven steam ves-
sels of nearly 10,000 tons burthen, carpenter's measurement.
In the early part of its history, the town of Rutherglen contained
a castle which appears to have been a place of great strength, and
ranked among the ancient fortresses of Scotland. In 1306, when
Edward King of England was appointed arbiter in the dispute be-
tween Bruce and Baliol, respecting the succession to the throne of
Scotland, the castle of Rutherglen fell into his hands. Bruce, sen-
sible of the great importance of this fortress, besieged it, and this
coming to the knowledge of Edward, he sent his nephew, the
young Earl of Glocester, to raise the siege. After various con-
flicts, this castle seems to have been taken from the English in the
year 1313 by Bruce.
The castle, which stood near the east end of the back row, was
kept in good repair till a short time after the battle of Langside,
when it was burned by order of the Regent, out of revenge on the
noble house of Hamilton, in whose custody it then was. The prin-
cipal towers, however, were soon repaired, and, being enlarged by
some modern improvements, became the seat of the Hamiltons of
Elistoun, lairds of Shawfield, &c. At length, on the decline of that
family, it was more than a century ago left to fall into ruins, and
by frequent dilapidations was levelled to the ground. The walls
of this ancient tower were very thick. Each corner rested upon
a foundation stone 5 feet in length, and 4 feet in breadth and
thickness. These corner stones being very massy, were allowed to
remain till about seventy years ago, when they were quarried out, as
being cumbersome to a kitchen garden, into which the site of the
fortress of Rutherglen is now converted. Some carved stones be-
longing to the castle are built in the adjoining dikes.
About 150 yards to the south of the main street, there is a kind of
lane known by the name of Dins- Dikes. A circumstance which be-
1226, Alexander II. granted a charter to Walter Bishop of Glasgow, relieving his
town from certain servitudes formerly due to Rutherglen. — Municipal Corporation
Report, 1835, Part II. p. 371.
RUTHERGLEN. 375
fell the unfortunate Queen Mary, immediately after her forces were
routed at the battle of Langside, has ever since continued to cha-
racterize this place with an indelible mark of opprobrium. Her Ma-
jesty during the battle stood on a rising ground about a mile and
a-half from Rutherglen. She no sooner saw her army defeated than
she took her precipitate flight to the south. Dins-Dikes unfortu-
nately lay in her way. Two rustics who were at that instant cutting
grass hard by, seeing her Majesty fleeing in haste, rudely attempt-
ed to intercept and threatened to cut her in pieces with their scythes
if she presumed to proceed a step farther. Neither beauty nor even
royalty itself can at all times secure the unfortunate when they
have to do with the unfeeling or the revengeful. Relief, however,
was at hand, and her Majesty proceeded in her flight.
The parish of Rutherglen, of which the burgh forms a part,
extends on the south bank of the river Clyde, about 3 miles in
length, and 1 mile 2 furlongs in breadth. Clyde is the bound-
ary on the north ; the parish of Govan on the west ; Cathcart on
the south-west ; Carmunnock on the south ; and Cambuslang on
the east. The whole is arable, and is mostly enclosed, chiefly with
thorn hedges. It lies in a pleasant situation, forming the lower
part of the declivity of Cathkin hills, and is beautifully diversified
with a regular succession of hills and narrow dales, excepting the
parts next the river, where it forms into some very fertile plains.
There is nothing on record by which we can precisely ascertain
what was anciently the extent of Rutherglen, or the number of
houses it contained. When digging at the east end of the town,
the foundations of buildings are sometimes met with in places which
were never known to have been occupied by houses. One princi-
pal street, in a direction nearly east and west, and a parallel lane
called the Back Row, constitute the greatest part of the town.
The main street, which is very straight and well paved, is nearly
half a-mile in length, and is in general 112 feet broad. From both
sides of it go off a few lanes, as the Farm Lone, School Wynd, &c.
The plains next the river comprehend the estates of Shawfield,
Farme, Hamilton Farme, and Rosebank. Shawfield extends about
a mile in length from the town of Rutherglen to Polmadie, having
the Clyde for its boundary on the north. Sir Claud Hamilton was
laird of Shawfield in 1615. This property was adjudged to Mi-
John Ellis, and other creditors of the family, about the year 1657,
and in 1695 it was conveyed by the said John Ellis to Sir Alexan-
der Anstruther of Newwark, who sold it in 1707 to Mr Daniel
3/6 LANARKSHIRE.
Campbell, collector of his Majesty's customs at Port- Glasgow,
whose descendant, Mr Walter Campbell of Shawfield, sold it in
1788 to Mr Robert Houston Rae of Little Govan. It does not
appear that any of the proprietors took the title of Shawfield, but
the Hamiltons, Crawfords, and Campbells.
Next to the town on the east, and along the side of the river,
is the estate of Farme. It is said to have been once the private
property of some of the Stuarts, Kings of Scotland. It after-
wards belonged to the family of Crawford, who naming it from
themselves called it Crawford Farme. It soon afterwards came
into the possession of Sir Walter Stewart of Minto, who dwelt in
the castle about the year 1645. He is reported to have been a
gentleman of extraordinary prudence and humanity, and during the
commotions of the times, to have obtained many favours for Ru-
therglen. The Flemings had it for some time in their possession,
and at length it came into the Hamilton family. It is now called
Farme, and was purchased by Mr Farie, father of Mr James Farie,
the present proprietor, from the Duke of Hamilton. On the estate,
and nearly in the middle of the beautiful lawn, the ancient castle,
now the family seat of Mr Farie, is situated. The period in which
it was built is unknown, but the thick walls, the narrow and irregu-
larly placed windows, the strong battlements, &c. are evidences
of its antiquity, and that it was erected as a place of strength.
Being kept in excellent repair, it is wholly habitable, and may
continue for ages to come, a beautiful pattern of the manner in
which the habitations of the powerful barons of Scotland were an-
ciently constructed. Mr Farie has built a suitable addition to the
castle ; and, to prevent his lands from being injured by inundations,
has raised a bank at the river along his property.
In May 1792, one of the principal rooms in the old castle was
repaired. The workmen having pulled down an old stucco ceiling,
discovered another of timber under it. On the beams, which had
been long covered up, several lines were written in old English
characters, in the style of precepts, one of which was, " Fair speech
in presence with good report in absence^ and manners even to fel-
lowship obtains great reverence ; written in the year 1325.
Farther up the Clyde is Hamilton Farme, the property of Miss
Sommerville. Near to Hamilton Farme is Morrieston, the pro-
perty of Mr Joseph Bain ; and Rosebank, the property of the heirs
of the late Mr David Dale.
In the higher parts of the parish are some considerable estates,
RUTHERGLEN. 377
as Gallowflat, the property of Mr John Robertson Reid; Scotstown
of Mr John Gray; Stonelaw of Mr Charles Cunningham; Bank-
head of Mr Walter White, the present Provost of Rutherglen.
Elegant and commodious mansion-houses are built on these estates.
The town's lands consist of the Green, a plain of 32 acres and
31 falls, lying between the town and the river. The soil is rich
and deep, owing to the accumulation of mud and decayed vege-
tables carried down the Clyde. It appears from the Municipal
Corporation Report that the other property of the burgh consists
of the Court hall, prison rooms, gaoler's house, &c., a schoolhouse,
schoolmaster's house, town-hall, and two other properties, the
whole supposed to be in value about L. 10,000.
Climate. — As there are no known data in Rutherglen from which
to ascertain the heat and quantity of rain, the following is taken
from Cleland's Statistical Tables for Glasgow.
The state of the thermometer in 1834 was ascertained at the
Cranston Hill Water- works, (separated from the parish of Ruther-
glen only by the Clyde) by Mr M'Kain, the scientific manager of
the works, who suspended one of Crichton's Fahrenheit thermo-
meters in an open well about twenty feet diameter, cradled with
stone, in a position apart from the rays of the sun, and enjoined
the day and night engineers, who are in constant attendance, to
mark the hourly state of the thermometer in a book, and from that
book Mr M'Kain constructed a table, exhibiting the temperature
hourly, daily, weekly, monthly, and yearly. The result was, an
average temperature during two years, from 1st January 1833, to
1st January 1835, 48.43.
The greatest heat of the thermometer on 24th January 1834
was 44.37, and the least heat on the 29th, 33.12. Average heat
40.58. On the 18th February, 46.08; on the 13th, 32.25 ; ave-
rage, 40.08. On 6th December, 52.16; on the 19th, 26.37 ;
average, 39.63. On 2d June, 63.45 ; on 13th, 52.33 ; average,
57.91. On 4th July, 67.33; on 19th, 56.87; average, 62.04.
On 3d August, 67.83 ; on 28th, 49.75 ; average, 59.37. These
six months exhibit the extremes in the year. The extremes were
applicable only to a few hours in the respective months. The
mean heat of Glasgow was formerly determined by Professor
Thomas Thomson to be 47.75, while that of Edinburgh, as de-
termined by Professor Playfair, was 47.72. But it is presumed
that these eminent philosophers had not the advantage of hour-
ly inspection.
378 LANARKSHIRE,
j^
Hydrography. — A considerable part of the parish is bounded
on the north by the river Clyde. The Bowtree dam, which sup-
plies the mill with water, is the only pool in the parish.
Mineralogy. — There are five coal-mines in the parish, viz. one
worked by Mr Farie at Farme; two by Mr Gray at Eastfield; one by
Mr Cunningham at Stonelaw; and one by Mr Colin Dunlopat Ha-
milton Farme. Some of these mines produce a small quantity of
ironstone. It appears from the Government abstract for 1831,
page 999, that 305 persons were then employed in the coal mines,
and 27 in the quarries of Rutherglen. Prior to 1775, the colliers
of Rutherglen, and other places in Scotland, were by the common
law in a state of slavery. They, and their wives and children, if
they had assisted at coal-works, became the property of the coal-
masters, and were transferred with the coal-work, in the same man-
ner as the slaves on a West India estate.
In the Rev. Dr Maclae's report of the parish of Rothsay for
the Statistical Account in 1791, it is said that a cart of coals con-
taining 12 cwt. cost 3s. 6d. in Glasgow, and an equal sum to take
them to Rothsay in the Island of Bute. For seven years prior to
1836, coals in quantities were delivered in Glasgow at the steam-
boat quay from Rutherglen at from 6s. 9d. to 7s. 9d. per ton. The
supply for families was Is. more per ton.
II. — CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.
The following facts, collected from the records of the burgh,
the Presbytery of Glasgow, the Synod of Glasgow and Ayr,
Ure's History of Rutherglen, and other authentic documents, con-
tain a pretty accurate account of the state of society in Ruther-
glen at the periods referred to.
The distinguishing characteristics of the people of this parish,
(like others in the neighbourhood,) about the time of the Re-
formation, and for nearly a century after it, were ignorance and
a fierce sanguinary spirit. Their belief in apparitions, witches, se-
cond-sight, their profanation of the Sabbath by working, rioting
at fairs, and the numerous murders and cases of incest of the worst
description, exhibit the depravity of the age. The administration
of justice, and the execution of the criminal law must have been
in a most deplorable state, when such crimes were left to the cen-
sure of the church:
A long letter from King James VI. is engrossed in the Synod
records. It is dated at Ruthen (Ruglen) 19th August 1586, and
directed to Mr Andrew Hay, Commissioner for the west country.
RUTHERGLEN. 379
It recommends the suppression of impiety and vice, and authorizes
discipline — promises the support of the civil power — is willing to
put the benefices on a proper footing — to receive proposals from
the church — but reserves consideration of any alteration that may
be made. Among the evils to be removed by the kirk are witch-
craft, incest, murders, idle beggars, persons passing on pilgrimages
to chapels or wells, inquiring the names of certain crofts or pieces
of ground reported to be superstitiously consigned to the devil,
under the name of the Gudeman or Hyndeknyt.
On 24th February 1590, the presbytery of Glasgow directed
the doctor of the school of Rutherglen to desist from reading
prayers, and they complained that those who provided wine for the
sacrament of the Lord's supper mixed it with water. The pres-
bytery exhorted the people not to drink the wine greedily but to
receive it with all sobriety, and to have the eyes of their souls
lifted up to heaven, and not to drink the wine barbarously.
On 8th May 1593, the presbytery ordered their clerk to write
a letter to my Lord Paisley to repair the choir of Ruglen kirk; and
at the same time they prohibited the playing of pipes on Sundays,
from sun rising to its going down, on pain of excommunication, and
forbade all pastimes on Sundays. This order to be read in all
the kirks, but especially in the kirk of Ruglen.
On 20th May 1595, the presbytery sent three letters, viz. to
the Laird of Farme, the Laird of Lekprivick, and the bailies of
Rutherglen, to stay the profane plays introduced in Ruglen on the
Lord's day, as they fear the eternal God, and will be answerable
to his kirk. They also complained of the practice of drawing sal-
mon, and of the colliers in Ruglen settling their accounts on Sunday.
On 20th March 1604, Sir Claud Hamilton of Shawfield « in-
terrupted the minister of Ruglen in time of sermon, after a bar-
barous and unchristian manner ; and Andrew Pinkerton boasted
that he had put away four ministers from Ruglen, and he hoped
to put away Mr Hamilton also. He drew a whinger and held it
to the minister's breast, and David Spens said he would stick twa
ministers, and would not give a fig for excommunication."
On 29th July 1607, the presbytery ordered the minister of
Ruglen to intimate from the pulpit on Sunday next, that the next
Wednesday is to be solemnly kept by every parishioner resorting
to the kirk, for praising of God's blessed name, for his Majesty's
preservation and deliverance from that treasonable attempt and
conspiracy against his Majesty's life at Perth, (the Gowrie con-
380 LANARKSHIRE.
spiracy.) The tumults at Ruglen at this period were so great that
it was thought meet that the minister should urge his transporta-
tion. James Riddell sat at the communion table, though his mi-
nister had ordered him to rise, and, in contempt of the minister and
session, he cut the grass on the kirk-yard on the Sabbath day. At
this period Sir William Hamilton, Elistoun, came from France, to
reside in Ruglen, and being suspected of favouring papists, gave
great uneasiness to the presbytery.
During the troubles in the reign of Charles I. the presbytery
of Glasgow, on 17th May 1648, declared that they were not sa-
tisfied with the lawfulness, necessity, and manner of prosecuting
the war, and desired that the levy might be stopped, and that re-
ligion, loyalty, and the King, might be kept in their proper place.
Mr Baillie, Professor of Divinity in Glasgow, and Mr Gillespie,
minister of the Outer Kirk there, were appointed to draw up a re-
monstrance to Parliament. The commissioners transmitted their
declarature, in opposition to the Parliament's wish, and in defi-
ance of the privy-council, and ordered the declarature to be read
in all the kirks, as the ministers will be answerable to God and
the kirk. Mr Robert Young, minister of Ruglen, was opposed to
the reading of it, and the town-clerk of that burgh, who was a mem-
ber of Parliament, forbade the magistrates to hear it. The laird
of Minto, the magistrates, and the town-clerk, went out of the
church, and desired the people to dismiss. The communion was to
have been celebrated on the Sunday following, but the presbytery
prohibited it till the scandal was tried and censured. The session
of Ruglen, in opposition to the minister, sent a letter to the com-
mittee of war at Hamilton, informing them that they were not sa-
tisfied with the lawfulness of the war, and desired that it might
be put an end to.
The birth-day and restoration of Charles II. was celebrated at
Ruglen, with bonfires and other marks of rejoicing, on 29th May
1679. On that occasion a body of men, about eighty in number,
who were incensed at government on account of the persecutions
against the covenanters, to which it gave its sanction, assembled at
the cross of Ruglen, with a fixed resolution to execute a plan of
retaliation they had previously concerted. Having chosen a leader,
they sung psalms, and prayed. The acts of Parliament against
conventicles were then committed to the flames of the bonfire.
This was the first public appearance of the Bothwell Bridge as-
RUTHERGLEN. 381
sociation, as it was called by the covenanters, or rebellion, as it was
termed by the court party.*
Guthrie gives the following account of this affair in his history
of Scotland : " In the year 1679, immediately after the death of
Sharpe Bishop of St Andrew's, the cruelty of Lord Lauderdale
and his party arose to such a height against the Presbyterians,
that many of them resolved to assert their liberty by taking up arms.
About eighty of them assembled at Ruglen, a young preacher
of the name of Hamilton was declared their head, and on the 29th
May, they drew up a declaration against all the acts of Parliament
relating to religion, and publickly committed them to the flames
of the bonfire that had been lighted up in commemoration of
the day. After a successful engagement with Captain Graham
of Claverhouse, they took possession of the town of Hamilton, and
soon made themselves masters of Glasgow, but were afterwards to-
tally defeated at Bothwell Bridge, by the Duke of Monmouth."
On 4th June 1690, the presbytery informed the people of Ru-
glen, that, as this was the first meeting after the re-establishment
of the Presbyterian form of government, the only standing go-
vernment of this church, Mr Joseph Drew was directed to go to
Stirling, and preach to the people who had left the west country,
on account of the troubles of the kingdom, and considering the an-
cient and laudable Custom of the ministers meeting together at din-
ner on the ordinary days of the presbytety, agree to dine in Alex-
ander Cochrane's house in Glasgow. Mr Dixon the minister of Ru-
glen was prohibited from mentioning various interpretations of
texts, in opposition to one another, and is instructed to give the
interpretation which is agreeable to the analogy of faith and
the analogy of the text; and if any? error is supposed to be taught
it shall not be introduced before the congregation, but represent-
ed to the presbytery, and their direction followed. The curates
were examined on oath as to their knowledge of where the synod
and presbytery records could be found.* Some course was to be
* The people of Glasgow seem to have been actuated by a similar spirit to that
of their neighbours in Rutherglen. " The commission of the General Assembly of
the Church of Scotland, deprecating the union with England, appointed a fast to be
kept on Thursday, the 7th of November 1706, to implore divine assistance from
the impending calamity ; on which occasion the Rev. James Clark, minister of the
Tron Church, Glasgow, preached from these words in Ezra viii. 21. * Then I pro-
claimed a fast there, at the river of Ahava, that we might afflict ourselves before our
God, to seek of him a right way for us, and for our little ones, and for all our sub-
stance.' After the discourse was finished, the preacher said ' Wherefore up and be
valiant, for the city of our God.' The people instantly arose, and, along with their
clergyman, hurried to the cross, where they burned the proposed articles of union."
382 LANARKSHIRE.
taken with the Episcopal men who preach on holidays, and ad-
minister the sacrament of the supper privately, and by kneeling.
The following account of the affairs of Rutherglen is taken
from the general report of the Commissioners on Municipal Cor-
porations, presented to both houses of Parliament in 1835, by com-
mand of his Majesty.
At a meeting of the general Convention of Royal Burghs, held
at Edinburgh on 9th July 1691, it was enacted, that two commis-
sioners should be sent to every burgh in Scotland, to ascertain
their true state. Mr James Fletcher, Provost of Dundee, and Mr
Alexander Walker, Bailie of Aberdeen, two of the Commissioners,
opened their commission at Rutherglen on 7th May 1692, when
Robert Bowman, Provost, John Scott, Bailie, and William Spens,
town-clerk, gave in the following statement on oath :
1st, That the common good of the burgh amount to 959 lib.
16, 3, Scots, and the debt to 7100 merks.
2e?, That the burgh has no mortifications (mortmains.)
3d, That they have neither foreign nor inland trade ; that they
do not vend nor consume French wine, sack, or brandy, except
some few pints of brandy they buy in Glasgow ; and that they con-
sume about five bolls of malt weekly.
4th, They have no ships, barks, boats, or ferry-boats belonging
to them.
5th, Their minister is paid out of the teinds ; their schoolmaster
and all their public servants out of the common good.
6^, The most part of the houses are inhabited by the respec-
tive heritors. The rent of the best and the worst of those houses
will be between the rent of eight and four pound Scots, and that
they have no stranger inhabitants.
7th, They have four yearly fairs, three of one day's continuance,
and the fourth of four or five days' continuance, and that they have
no weekly market.*
* The following note, taken from the same document, relates to Glasgow. On
1st May 1692, Provost James Peddle, Bailies Matthew Cummin and Simon Tennent,
and Mr George Anderson, town-clerk, gave in the following statement on oath :
}st, The common good of the burgh amounts to 16,9021ibs. Scots, and the debt to
178,800 libs. Scots, principal, and annual rents.
2d, That their foreign trade amounts to 205,000 libs Scots ; that they vend and re-
tail about twenty tuns of French wine, twenty butts of sack, and about ten or twelve
butts of brandy yearly; and that they vend and consume about 1000 bolls of malt
monthly.
3d, That they have fifteen ships, whereof eight are in the harbour and seven abroad,
and eight- lighters ; viz, 1 ship, 160 tons ; 2, 150 ; 1, 100 ; 4, 80 ; 1, 70 ; 2. 50; 2, 36
and 2, 30. At this period the shipping harbour was at Port- Glasgow.
RUTHERGLEN. 383
Antiquities. — At Gallowflat there are the remains of a tumulus of
earth. This mound was anciently surrounded with a ditch, the
traces of which were visible so late as the year 1773. At that pe-
riod the proprietor, Mr Patrick Robertson, formed the ditch into
a fish pond. During the operation a paved passage, six feet broad,
was discovered leading up to the top of the mound. Near to this
passage, two brass or copper vessels were found shaped like por-
ringers, with broad handles about nine inches long, on which the
word Congallus was cut.
In a tumulus at Hamilton Farm, a stone coffin was found in
1768 ; since that period, it has been levelled with the ground.
The tumulus at Drumlaw has long since been removed.
The cross erected on the top of Cross-hill was made of a hard
stone, ten feet high and three and a-half broad, ornamented with
various figures. The most remarkable was that of our Saviour
riding upon an ass. This religious monument fell a sacrifice to
the fury of a mob during the civil wars in Charles I.'s time. In Ure's
History, from which this account of antiquities is taken, there are
several others, though of less importance.
Ancient Customs. — The inhabitants of Rutherglen seem to have
been very tenacious of ancient customs, some of which are still
kept up.
Perambulating the Marches. — On a particular day, the magi-
strates, accompanied by a great proportion of the inhabitants, per-
ambulated the burgh marches, with drums beating and colours
flying. When the procession was over, a mock engagement with
broom besoms took place, which ended in a jollyfication. This
custom was given up in 1830.
Sour Cakes. — Rutherglen has long been famous for sour cakes.
About eight or ten days before St Luke's fair, in October, a cer-
tain quantity of oat meal is made into dough with warm water,
and laid up in a vessel to ferment. Being brought to a proper
degree of fermentation and consistency, it is rolled up into balls,
proportionably to the intended largeness of the cakes. With the
dough is commonly mixed a small quantity of sugar, and a little
anise-seed or cinnamon. The baking is executed by women only,
4/7i, The decay of trade is such that a great number and many of the best of the
houses are waste, yea, that there are near 500 houses standing waste, and that those
inhabited are fallen nearly one third of the rent, and that the best and worst will be
betwixt 100 pounds, (whereof they have not eight inhabited by burghers) and 4 lib.
Scots yearly, except some large taverns.
384 LANARKSHIRE.
and they seldom begin their work till after sunset, and a night or
two before the fair. A large space of the house chosen for the
purpose is marked out by a line drawn upon it. The area within
is considered as consecrated ground, and is not by any of the by-
standers to be touched with impunity. A transgression incurs a
small fine, which is always laid out on drink for the use of the
company. This hallowed spot is occupied by six or eight women,
all of whom, except the toaster, seat themselves on the ground in
a circular form, having their feet turned towards the fire. Each
of them is provided with a bake-board, about two feet square,
which they hold on their knees. The woman who toasts the cakes,
which is done on a girdle suspended over the fire, is called the
Queen or Bride, and the rest her maidens. These are distinguish-
ed from one another, by names given them for the occasion. She
who sits next the fire towards the east is called the Todler ; her
companion on the left hand is called the Hodler, and the rest
have arbitrary names given them by the Bride, as Mrs Baker, best
and worst maids, &c. The operation is begun by the Todler,
who takes a ball of the dough, forms it into a small cake, and then
casts it on the bake-board of the Hodler, who beats it out a little
thinner. This being done, she in her turn throws it on the board
of her neighbour, and thus it goes round from east to west, in the
direction of the course of the sun, until it comes to the toaster, by
which time it is as thin and smooth as a sheet of paper. The
first cake that is cast on the girdle is usually named as a gift to
some well-known cuckold, from a superstitious opinion that there-
by the rest will be preserved from mischance. Sometimes the
cake is so thin as to be carried by the current of the air up into the
chimney. As the baking is wholly performed by the hand a great
deal of noise is the consequence. The beats, however, are not ir-
regular, nor destitute of an agreeable harmony, especially when
they are accompanied with vocal music, which is frequently the
case. Great dexterity is necessary not only to beat out the cakes
with no other instrument than the hand, so that no part of them
shall be thicker than another, but especially to cast them from one
board to another, without ruffling or breaking them. The toast-
ing requires considerable skill, for which reason the most experi-
enced person in the company is chosen for that part of the work.
One cake is sent round in quick succession to another, so that
RUTIIKRGLEN. 385
none of the company is suffered .to be idle. The whole is a scene
of activity, mirth, and diversion, and might afford an excellent sub-
ject for a picture. There is no account of the origin of this cus
torn. The bread thus baked was doubtless never intended for
common use. It is not easy to conceive why mankind, especially
in a rude age, would strictly observe so many ceremonies, and be at§
so great pains in making a cake, which, when folded together, makes
but a scanty mouthful. Besides it is always given away in pre-
sents to strangers, who frequent the fair. The custom seems to
have been originally derived from Paganism, and to contain not a
few of the sacred rites peculiar to that impure religion, as the le-
vened dough, and the mixing it with sugar and spices, the conse-
crated ground, &c. &c. This custom is given up, except in
the house of Bailie Hugh Fulton, vintner, where the entire ce-
remonies are gone through.
Sour Cream. — Rutherglen is famous for making sour cream of
an excellent quality. It is made in the following manner : A cer-
tain quantity of sweet milk is put into a wooden vessel or vat, which
is placed in a proper degree of heat, and covered with a linen
cloth. In due time, the serous or watery part of the milk begins
to separate from the rest, and is called whig. When the separa-
tion is complete, which, according to circumstances, requires more
or less time, the whig is drawn off from near the bottom of the
vessel. The substance that remains is then beat with a large
spoon or ladle, till the particles of which it is composed are pro-
perly mixed. A small quantity of sweet milk is sometimes added
to correct the acidity if it is in excess. The cream thus prepar-
ed is agreeable to the taste, and nourishing to the constitution.
III. — POPULATION.
There seems to have been no enumeration of the inhabitants
of the parish of Rutherglen that can be relied on prior to 1755,
when it was taken for Dr Webster, then drawing up his report for
the widows' fund. In that year, the population amounted to 988.
In 1791, according to Chalmers' Caledonia, it amounted to 1860.
In 1793, lire states, that, " the town of Rutherglen consisted of
255 dwelling-houses, inhabited by 400 families, containing 1631
persons, of whom 270 children under six years of age, males,
801, females, 830." This does not include the landward part
of the parish. If the landward contained 500 persons, which it
is very probable it did, the population in 1793 would have been
2131.
386
LANARKSHIRE.
From the Government Censuses.
Year.
Houses.
Occupations.
Persons. \
I
&4S
f £^
i
1
i
1
1
|
I
*» §* 8
I'll
*e ft ^
I « 7
'" 8 i-e
II
1 3
j
fc.
|
fc,^lP
Q S 1
^
1801,
347
533
0
21
270
640
1527
1200
1237
2437
1811,
728
726
9
19
48
427
251
1660
1869
3529
1821,
617
928
0
0
163
736
29
2295
2345
4640
1831,
661
1238
2
4
102
1136
0
2733
2770
5503
As there is no enumeration of births, marriages, and deaths, in
this parish, by which the probability of human life can be ascer-
tained with any degree of accuracy, it seems proper to explain the
manner in which bills of mortality have been drawn up in the ad-
joining parishes of Glasgow, where great pains have been bestow-
ed to render them accurate. For want of understanding the prin-
ciples upon which the proper construction of such tables depend,
most of the writers on this subject, many of them men of great
merit and industry, have taken much pains to little purpose, and
after excessive labour, have arrived at false conclusions. Hardly
any of them appear to have been aware of the necessity of ob-
taining the number of the living as well as of the annual deaths
in each interval of age, or that that would greatly enhance the
value of bills of mortality, by extending their useful applications.
According to Cleland's folio Statistical Tables for Glasgow,
p. 260, it appears that, in the year 1821, the population was 147,043;
deaths, 3686; rate of mortality 1 in 39T859(j persons.
In 1831, the population was 202,426; deaths, 5185; rate of
mortality, 1 in 39 T£D persons.
From an official return for the kingdom of the Netherlands,
where the code Napoleon is strictly enforced, the population was
found to be 6,166,854; deaths, 158,800; rate of mortality, 1 in
38T8o2o persons.
From the Government parish register abstract, Vol. iii. p. 496,
ordered by the House of Commons to be printed on 2d April 1833,
it appears that, on the average of the metropolis from 1811 to
1821, the rate of mortality was 1 in 39.6 persons. From the
same official document it appears, that, on a similar average, from
1821 to 1831, the rate of mortality was 1 in 39.8 persons.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
It does not appear that Rutherglen has ever been very conspi-
3
RUTHERGLEN. 387
cuous for the extent of its trade. At an early period, there was
a considerable traffic in salmon for the French market ; returns
were made in brandy. The quay at the south-west corner of the
public green seems to have been built for shipping coals. In 1813,
a judicial examination of very old persons took place with refe-
rence to the upper navigation, from which it appeared, that about
the year 1745, craft went up the Clyde as far as West-thorn, and
even so late as 1786, small craft went up to Rutherglen, and it is
pretty evident, that but for the erection of a wear at the Glasgow
bridge, the trade might not only have continued, but increased.
A few years ago, the Messrs Wilson of Thornlie began to bring
coals down the river, from their pits at Dalmarnock, in punts
propelled by a steam tug, to their quay a little above Hutchison's
bridge, but with this exception there is no craft plying above Glas-
gow bridge. About ten years ago, a small steamer, the Marion,
during a flood in the river, made an experimental trip through the
arches of the bridges, and moored off the quay at Rutherglen.
Fifty years ago, there were no manufactories in the parish.
About 1790, two printfields were made, one in the burgh of Ru-
therglen by Mr Gumming, and the other in Shawfield by Mr Dal-
glish. These works, which then employed about 200 persons,
have been enlarged, and now belong to Messrs Reid and White-
man, and Stewart and M'Aulay.,
About 1796, Mr Peter Ferguson made a bleachfield at Shaw-
field Bank. After occupying it for some time he was succeeded by
Messrs Gowdie, who introduced Turkey-red 'dyeing on the pre-
mises. It was subsequently converted into a chemical work by
Messrs Downie and White, and is now the property of, and occu-
pied by Messrs John and James White, manufacturing chemists.
About 1800, Mr M'Taggart built a small cotton-mill in the
parish, which, after passing through several hands, has been en-
larged, and is now the property of Mr M'Naughton ; and in 1833,
Mr Mathieson fitted up an extensive Turkey-red dye-work, on the
lands of Farme. These are the only manufactories in the parish,
but there are nearly 500 hand-loom muslin weavers in it, who all
work for Glasgow manufacturers.
Agriculture. — The agriculture of the parish has been greatly
improved of late years. Inclosing, draining, and limeing has now
become general in the parish. Ure, in giving great credit to Ma-
jor Spens of Stonelaw, for his improvements in 1790, mentions,
that to improve the soil, besides limeing and dunging, he purchased
388 LANARKSHIRE.
all the oyster-shells he could get in Glasgow, which he spread in
the gin-tracks of his coal-works, where they were broken in pieces
by the horses feet, and reduced to excellent manure.* The seed-
time in the parish is usually about the end of March, and the har-
vest about the middle of September. The farms are let from
L. 2, 10s. to L. 5 per acre, according to quality; good land rents
at a grain rent of 3J bolls of wheat per acre.
Price of Labour in Rutherglen. — In 1660, a ploughman received
L. 10 Scots, with a pair of shoes and stockings for a half year's ser-
vice ; a female servant ten merks Scots, a pair of shoes, an ell
of linen, and an ell of plaiding ; masons and wrights a merk Scots
without meat, or half a merk with meat and drink for a day's work.
A common labourer half a merk without meat, and forty pennies
with meat and drink. In 1836 a good ploughman gets from L. 9
to L. 10 Sterling, with bed, board, and washing for six months ser-
vice. Dairy-maids having a charge, L. 5, and ordinary female
farm-servants, L. 3, 10s. to L. 4, 10s. with bed, board, and wash-
ing, for six months service. Masons and wrights average 3s. per
day; labourers, Is. 6d. to Is. lOd. In 1660, workmen who re-
fused to work for the prices fixed by the magistrates were impri-
soned ; and no servant was allowed to take up house and work
for themselves without a warrant from the magistrates. In 1836,
workmen of all descriptions combine to raise their wages, and fre-
quently through the medium of political unions clog the wheels of
industry, to the great injury of their families.
V.- — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Royal Burghs. — Although in the lapse of ages, the privileges
originally granted to royal burghs have now become questionable, we
should not forget that we are much indebted to them for the reli-
gious and civil liberty we now enjoy. They were at first erected
by our monarchs with a view to rescue mankind from the op-
pressive power of the barons. For this purpose certain portions of
the King's lands were bestowed upon them. The circumstance of
these lands being commonly adjoining to royal garrisons, is the rea-
son why the greatest number of ancient burghs are situated in the
* It appears from the following note, taken from the Rev. John Bower's account
of the parish of old Monkland, in the former Statistical Account of Scotland, vol.
vii. p. 389, that the steam engine was not then used in taking up coals from the pits.
Mr Bower says " In the spring of 1792, Mr Hamilton erected a machine for draw-
ing up the coal at Barrachnie and Sandy-hills coal works entirely by steam. It is on
an improved plan and the first of the kind in Scotland. It is found to be the cheap-
est and most expeditious way of doing that business, for could colliers be placed in
the pit to keep her constantly employed, she would turn out about 200 tons per day.
The present output is 35,000 tons per year."
4
RUTHERGLEN. 389
immediate neighbourhood of places of strength. They were put in
possession of certain rights and privileges, the management of
which was committed to the inhabitants. They were consequent-
ly viewed as so many free and almost independent communities
existing in the midst of oppression and slavery. Justice was to be
found in their courts, — the lives and properties of the inhabitants
were secured from the rapacity of the haughty barons, — arts, com-
merce, and industry prospered within their territories, — and from
them the cheering rays of liberty were widely diffused.
The inhabitants of Rutherglen have long been considered adepts
in burgh politics. From the union with England till the passing
of the Reform Bill, great exertions were made by many of the in-
habitants to become members of the town-council, that body hav-
ing an equal share in electing a Member of Parliament as the im-
portant city of Glasgow. At contested elections (and there were
few otherwise) a considerable part of the community deserted their
usual avocations. The sinews of industry were enervated, and in-
stances were not awanting of families being ruined by habits of
dissipation, acquired on such occasions. Liberty was turned into
licentiousness, and the political franchise became, in the respect
now alluded to, a curse instead of a blessing to its possessors.
From living several years in the immediate vicinity of the burgh,
I am enabled to say that, notwithstanding this general character,
I have seen some noble instances of patriotism among the working-
classes who happened to be electors.
Since the passing of the Reform Bill, for the attainment of
which the inhabitants were most solicitous, the political influence of
Rutherglen may be said to be annihilated. There is now good
reason, however, to hope that industry, trade, and manufactures
will rapidly increase in the burgh.
Incorporations. — There are four incorporated trades in the
burgh, viz. hammermen, governed by a deacon, collector, and four
masters, freedom fine for a stranger, L. 1 ; weavers, governed
by a deacon, collector, four masters and five directors, freedom
fine for a stranger, 16s. 4d. ; masons and wrights, governed by a
deacon, collector, and four masters, freedom fine for a stranger,
L. 1, 13s. 4d. ; tailors, governed by a deacon, collector, two mas-
ters, and an assay master, freedom fine for a stranger, L. 1, 5s.
Burgess Fines. — The fines on becoming a freeman are as fol-
lows : a stranger, L. 1, 2s. 2§d., a burgess's eldest son, if his fa-
ther is in life, 8s. 4d. ; if his father is dead, 6Jd. ; other sons of
burgesses and sons-in-law, 11s. IJd.
LANARK. C C
390 LANARKSHIRE.
Members of the Scottish Parliament. — The following is a list of
the commissioners which the burgh of Rutherglen sent to the
Scotch Parliament:
1579, 23d Oct. Robert Lindsay 1661, 1st Jan. David Spens
1587, 13th July, David Spens 1669, 19th Oct. James Riddell
1612, 20th Sept. Andrew Pinkcrton 1670, 22d July, James Riddell
1617, 28th June, Robert Lindsay 1672, 12th June, James Riddel!
James Riddell 1673, 12th Nov. David Spens
1 621, 25th July, John Pinkerton 1699, 14th March, John Scott
1633, 20th June, John Scott 1703, 6th May, George Spens.
Mr Spens served till the union with England. The commis-
sioners had their expenses paid out of the town's revenues, at the
rate of L. 3 Scots per diem, during their attendance in parliament.
At the union with England, 13th June 1707, the burghs of
Glasgow, Rutherglen, Renfrew, and Dumbarton, sent one member
to the British Parliament, and since the 2d of February 1801,
(the Union with Ireland,) till 3d December 1832, when the par-
liament was dissolved after passing the Reform Bill, one member
to the Imperial Parliament.
The following is a list of the Members of the British and Im-
perial Parliaments for the above burghs:
1. Sir John Johnstone, Knight, elected on 13th June 1707«
2. Robert Rodger, Lord Provost of Glasgow, - - 8th July 1708.
3. Thomas Smith, Dean of Guild of Glasgow, 28th Nov. 1710.
4. Do. do. do. - - 12th Nov. 1713.
5.. Daniel Campbell of Shawfield, - - - 6th Oct. 1715.
6. Do. do. - 28th Nov. 1727.
7. Col. John Campbell of Croombank, 13th June 1734.
8. Neil Buchanan, Merchant in Glasgow, « • 25th June 1741.
9. Lieut. Col. John Campbell of Maw more, - 13th Aug. 1747.
10. Do. do. ... 31st May 1754.
11. Lord Frederic Campbell, - - - 19th May 1761.
12. Do. do. - - - - - 10th May 1768.
13. Do. do. - •*:... ..,.'••- 29th Nov. 1774.
14. John Crawford of Auchinamcs, - - - 31st Oct. 1780.
15. Islay Campbell of Succoth, . . - „ 18th May 1784.
16. John Crawford of A uchinames, - .- - 26th Feb. 1790.
17. William M'Dowall of Garthland, - - 12th July 1790.
18. do. do. - - , 27th Sept 1796.
19. Boyd Alexander of Southbar, - Ifith Nov. 1802.
20. Archibald Campbell of Blythswood, - - 15th Dec. 1800.
21. do. do. - - 22dJune 1807.
22. Alexander Houston of Clerkington, 30th June 1809.
23. Kirkman Finlay of Castle Toward, Lord Provost of Glasgow,* 30th Oct. 1812.
24. Alexander Houston of Clerkington, llth July 1818.
25. Archibald Campbell of Blythswood, - 31st Mar. 1820.
26. Do. do. - 3d July 1826.
27. Do. do. 23d Aug. 1830.
28. Joseph Dixon, Advocate, - - - 23d May 1831.
* Ninety years having elapsed since the burghs were represented by a Glasgow
merchant, Mr Finlay's election was attended by extraordinary marks of approbation.
His fellow citizens, as a pledge of their esteem and regard, appreciating his commer-
cial enterprise, popular talents, and public spirit, drew him in an open carriage from
the town-hall of Glasgow, where the election took place, to his house in Queen Street,
amid the acclamations of the multitude. His friends, Mr James Oswald of Shield-
HUTHERGLKN. 391
By the reform in parliament bill, the burghs of Kilmarnock,
Port- Glasgow, Dumbarton, Rutherglen, and Renfrew, send one
member to the Reform Parliament.
Constituency, 1415, viz. Kilmarnock, 687; Port-Glasgow, 238;
Dumbarton, 204; Rutherglen, 196; Renfrew, 90.
John Dunlop of Dunlop, represented these burghs in the first
Reform Parliament, which met on 29th January 1833.
John Bowring, LL. D. represents these burghs in the second
Reform Parliament, which met on 19th February 1835.
George Crawfurd, Town- Clerk, salary L. 30.
Poor. — There is no assessment for the maintenance of the
poor in the parish. The heritors make an annual subscription,
and it is from this, the fees from proclamation of marriages, and
the collections at the church doors, that the ordinary poor are main-
tained. In 1835, the poors' fund amounted to L.279, 19s. Id. and
the number of enrolled poor, to 86.* The allowance to paupers
and their families is from 2s. to 4s. per month ; a few of the more
clamant, receive 6s. per month. The interest of some small be-
quests, and the donations of Messrs Finlay and Buchanan, amount-
ing to L.23, was given to poor householders not on the paupers'
roll. As the mortcloths belong to the corporations, the fees aris-
ing from them are given to decayed members.
Church. — The old church with the burying ground, nearly in
the middle of which it was situated, exhibited a beautiful example
of a Druidical temple with its groves of trees. The oldest account
probably on record concerning the church of Rutherglen is in the
History of the Life of Joceline Bishop of Glasgow, who made a do-
nation of it, together with the churches of Cathcart and Mearns,
&c. to the Abbey of Paisley. f He died in the year 1199. The
church, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, was 62 feet
long, 25 feet wide, and 20 feet high. Plans and elevations of this
church are given in Ure's History of Rutherglen. The choir, which
hall, (one of the present Members of Parliament for Glasgow,) and the writer of this
account, were selected to accompany him in the carriage. Medals were struck on
the occasion. On the one side, were inscribed the words, Truth, Honour, Industry,
Independence, Finlay, 1812 ; and on the other, Agriculture, Commerce, and Manu-
factures, for our King and country, &c. On 29th December 1812, Mr Finlay gave
two hundred guineas, and his brother-in-law Mr Archibald Buchanan of Catrine one
hundred guineas, to the corporation of Rutherglen, the interest of which to be giv-
en annually to the poor householders in that burgh not on the poors' roll. The pro-
vost of the burgh, and the minister of the parish for the time being, and the writer
of this account, were appointed trustees for the charity.
* From July 1790 to July 1791, there were 26 persons on the poor roll in Ru-
therglen who got from 2s. to 5s. per month. The sum expended was L. 46, 16s.
t Keith's History of the Scots Bishops.
392 LANARKSHIRE.
extended 33 feet from the steeple, has long since been entirely
demolished. The church was rebuilt in 1794. The old steeple
still remains at about the same distance from the new church as it
did from the old ; the bell was made in Holland in 1635, by Mi-
chael Burgerhwys.
The church of Rutherglen is rendered famous on account of
two transactions in which the fate of Sir William Wallace and of
his country were deeply concerned. It was in this place of wor-
ship that a peace between Scotland and England was concluded on
8th February 1297.
In Ruglen kirk ye traist yan haiff yai set
A promes maid to meit Wallace but let
Ye day offyis approchyt wondyr fast
Ye gret Chanslar and Amar yidder past,
Syne Wallace come, and hys men weill beseyne
With hym fifty arayet all in greyne,
Ilk ane of yaim a bow and arrowis bar,
And lang swerds, ye whilk full scharply schar, &c.*
It was in this place also that Sir John Monteath contracted with
the English to betray Wallace.
A messynger Schir Amar, has gart pass
On to Schir Jhon, and sone a tryst has set
At Ruglan kirk yir twa togydder met,
Yan Wallang said, Schir Jhon yow know yis thing, £c.f
Patronage and Ministers.^ — The right of patronage was ancient-
ly lodged in the abbots of Paisley. After the Reformation it be-
* Henry's Life of Wallace, B. vi v. 852. f Ibid. B. xi. v. 796.
£ Ministers since the Reformation — 1. John Muirhead, son of the laird of Car-
luke, admitted on 16th December 1586. He left Rutherglen and went to Glassford,
or parsonage of Castle Sympell, on 8th December 1587. Mr Muirhead and the laird
of Cleland-town and his friends had a quarrel, in the course of which Mr John was put
in fear of his life, and durst not attend to his cure. Mr John Hamilton, provost of
Bothwell, was directed to endeavour to make peace. At length Lord Hamilton set-
tled the difference between the lairds of Cleland-town and Carluke — 2. Alexander
Rowat, from Dalziel, admitted 25th April 1592. In 1595, he went to be minister of
the Barony parish of Glasgow, and to Calder in 1615. Lord Hamilton having failed
to pay his stipend, is supplicated by Mr James Crawfurd of Farme. — 3 Archibald
Glen, admitted 30th March 1596. He was a man of great abilities and learning. He
left Rutherglen and went to Carmunnock in 1603 — 4. William Hamilton, son of
John Hamilton of Newton, admitted 18th April 1 604'. — Mr Hamilton gave in his presen-
tation to the rectory of Rutherglen from the master of Paisley in a different form from
that of Mr Glen, the last minister. — 5. Robert Young, admitted on 21st August 1611.
His son William was ordained assistant and successor to his father on 28th May 1647.
He was succeeded by another assistant, of whom Principal Baillie in his letters says,
" He was a manikin of small parts." The laird of Shawfield, patron. — 6. John
Dickson was third assistant to Mr Young, and succeeded him in the charge. It ap-
pears from Wodrow's Church History, that on 13th October 1660, Mr Dickson was
brought before the Committee of Estates, and confined in the Tolbooth of Edinburgh,
in consequence of information given by Sir James Hamilton of Eliestown, and some
of his parishioners, of some expressions he had used in a sermon alleged to reflect upon
the Government and the committee, tending to sedition and division. This good man
was kept in prison till the Parliament met. His church was vacated in 1660, and he
was kept a prisoner in the Bass for nearly seven years. The church was given to Mr
Hugh Blair Junior, who was ordained in 1661 : he remained till the revolution in 1688,
when he was turned out and Mr Dickson replaced, where he continued till his death
RUTHERGLEN. 393
longed to the Hamiltons of Eliestoun, and having passed through
several families along with the estate, was sold in 1724 by Mr Da-
niel Campbell of Shawfield, for the perpetual retention of eight
bolls of teind meal, payable from his lands within the royalty. " The
magistrates and council, the heritors residing within the burgh, and
thirteen pund land thereof, the members of the kirk-session, and the
proprietors and tenants of the lands of Shawfield have jointly the
right of presentation."
Stipend. — In 1586, the stipend of Rutherglen was only 60 merks.
In 1648, 4chalders 6 bolls of victual, and 250 merks. In 1665, 6
chalders and 200 merks. In 1668, 6 chalders 200 merks, and 50
merks for communion elements. At this period the following articles
were given in charge to the minister, viz. communion cups, tables,
table-cloths, bason, stoup, and kirk Bible. In 1775, the stipend
amounted to L. 77, 10s. In 1793, including allowance for com-
munion elements, 147 bolls 14J pecks of victual, of which 55 bolls
oats, 34 bolls barley, and the remainder oatmeal. In 1805, the
stipend amounted to L. 203, 15s. 5d. In 1831, 3TVo2o chalders of
oats, 4I\)5o4o of meal, 4I2s5o4o ^ear or barley, and L. 40, including
communion elements.
On 24th of February 1836, the Court of Teinds augmented the
stipend to as many imperial bushels of victual as are equal to eight-
een chalders, * Linlithgow standard, half meal and half barley,
convertible into money at the highest fiar price of the county,
with L. 10 for communion elements, exclusive of manse and glebe.
This stipend, which is considerably above the average in the
country, is very difficult to collect, it being paid by no less than
151 heritors in the burgh and landward part of the parish; eighty-
seven of the above number pay under 5s. ; some as low as 2d. ; twenty
in 1700. The laird of Eliestown, patron. — 7- Alexander Muir, ordained 17th De-
cember 1701 8. Alexander Maxwell, ordained 22d September 1719 — 9. William
Maxwell, his brother, admitted 19th August 1742 — 10. James Furlong, from Albion
Street Chapel of Ease, Glasgow, admitted on 17th August 1780 — 11. John Dick,
from Chryston Chapel of Ease, parish of Cadder, admitted on llth December 1810.
He died on 29th November 1826 12. Peter Brown; the present incumbent, was
ordained on 25th September 1834.
* As reference in this account of the parish is frequently made to chalders, and
as it is enacted, that, from and after the 1st January 1835, the fiar prices of all grainin
every county in Scotland, for ascertaining the value of minister's stipends, teinds, &c.
shall be struck by the imperial quarter, it may be useful here to state the difference
between the old and the new measures. A Linlithgow firlot for the sale of oats,
barley, bear, and malt, is equal to 1.456231.. that is, one bushel and .456231 decimal
parts ; therefore 5.49363...firlots are equal to one imperial quarter. An imperial
quarter, therefore, contains 1 boll, 1 firlot, 1 peck, 3 lippies, and about -^o*ns °^ a
lippic. A more particular account of the old and new measures may be seen in the
article Glasgow, in this work.
394 LANARKSHIRE.
pay below 6d.; twenty-nine from 6d. to Is.; eighteen from Is. to
2s. eleven from 2s. to 3s. five from 3s. to 4s. and four from 4s. to 5s.
Price of Oatmeal. — Fiar price of best oatmeal per boll in Ru«
therglen at the following periods, viz. in 1705, two years before the
union with England, L. 5 Scots, and in 1709, two years after the
Union, L. 8, 17s. Scots.
The following is the fiar price for thirty years of the best oat-
meal in Lanarkshire, by which the stipend of the minister of Ru-
therglen has been paid in Sterling money: In 1800, L.I, 19s.;*
in 1801, 18s. 6d. ; in 1802, 18s. 6d. ; in 1803, 19s. ; in 1804, 19s. ;
1805, L. 1, Is. ; in 1806, L. 1, 2s. ; in 1807, L. 1, 9s. 6d.; in 1808,
L. 1, 6s. ; in 1809, L. 1, 6s. 6d.; in 1810, L. 1, 2s. 6d.; in 1811,
L. 1, 4s. 6d.; in 1812, L. 1, 14s. 6d.; in 1813, L. 1, 4s. ; in 1814,
18s. 6d. ; in 1815, 16s.; in 1816, L.I, 10s. 6d.; in 1817,
L. 1, 9s. 9d.; in 1818, L. 1, 3s. 7d. ; in 1819, 18s.; in 1820,
17s. 7|d.; in 1821, 16s. 7d. ; in 1822, 13s, lOd. ; in 1823,
L. 1, Os. 6TVd.; in 1824, 17s. 2|d.; in 1825, 18s. 7^d.; in 1826,
L. 1, 6s. 6d.; in 1827, 15s. 10d.; in 1828, a boll imperial, 19s.;
in 1829, a bag of 280 Ibs. imperial weight, L. 1, 14s. ; in 1830, a
boll of 140 Ibs. L. 1, Os. 4|d.
It appears from Ure's History, " that at and prior to 1793 the
community of Rutherglen was strongly attached to the Establish-
ed Church of Scotland. There was not in the whole town above
seven or eight families belonging to the different parties of the Se-
cession." Till 1836, there was no place of worship in it Jbut the
parish church, when two churches were built by private subscrip-
tion, one of them in connection with the Establishment, and the
other with the Relief body.
The West Church, connected with the Establishment, contains
800 sittings. Rev. James Munroe, minister ; stipend L. 100.
The Relief church contains 950 sittings. Rev William War-
drop, minister ; proposed stipend L. 130. As the original church
contains 800 sittings, there is now church accommodation in the
three places of worship for 2550 persons, by which nearly two-
thirds of the examinable persons in the parish may be accommodat-
ed— the amount prescribed for parochial church accommodation.
Those friends of the church who consider individual patronage
as an evil which ought to be abolished, must not expect to find
complete relief in popular elections. In the presbytery of Glas-
* 1800-1 were years of great dearth. A peck of meal in J801 was sold in Kuthcr-
glen at 3s. 8d. In 1836, it is only Is. 2d. In the former year the wheaten quar-
tern loaf was Is. 10d-, and in the latter only 6d.
RUTHERGLEN. 395
gow there are two parishes whose ministers are elected by the
people. The parishioners of Rutherglen, with a model of patron-
age so liberal that 471 persons voted at the last election, have been
deprived of the ministration of a pastor for nearly eight years, while
those of Gadder, after long and painful litigation in the Supreme
Ecclesiastical and Civil courts, are again without a pastor.
Manse. — The manse was rebuilt in 1781. It is commodious,
but ill situated, being nearly in the centre of the town.
Glebe. — On 17th January 1667, the presbytery of Glasgow, con-
sidering that the glebe of Rutherglen contained only three acres,
added two additional acres of kirk land, lying on the west side of
Ruglen burn, and contiguous to the glebe.
Churchyard. — The churchyard is elevated several feet above the
streets, by which it is bounded on the south and north, and is sur-
rounded by trees. In 1660, the magistrates and council ordered
the trees, then growing old, to be cut down and others planted in
their room. These having served their time v/ere cut down in 1715.
The present trees occupy their place. It seems to have been an-
ciently a religious custom, probably coeval with the offering of sa-
crifices, to have trees surrounding burying-grounds.
Sc/iools. — The parochial schoolmaster is appointed by the town-
council. In 1685, his salary was L. 80 Scots, viz. L. 60 from the
burgh funds, and L. 20 from the landward heritors. In 1793, the
salary was L. 10 Sterling, paid from the burgh funds. Quarter
wage for reading English, 2s. ; writing, arithmetic,and Latin, 2s. 6d.
In 1836, the parochial schoolmaster has a free house and a salary
of L. 16, 13s. 4d., paid from the burgh funds. There are seven
other schools in the parish, the teachers of which have neither
dwelling-houses nor salaries. One of these schools is for Roman
Catholics, and another for girls, taught by a female. Fee per
quarter, English reading, 2s. 6d. ; knitting and sewing, 2s. 6d. :
reading and writing, 3s. ; writing and arithmetic, 3s. 6d. ; Latin
and Greek, 5s. ; book-keeping, 15s. In these schools there are
414 scholars, and in the Sabbath schools 383 scholars.
Valued Rent of Rutherglen. — According to Ure, the valued rent
in 1793 was L. 2100 Scots.* The real rent, at the average price
* Scots Money — As reference to Scots money frequently occurs in this article, the
following is its value in Sterling money : .
Scots. Sterling. .Scots. Sterling.
A doyt or penny, is - L. 0 0 0^ A merk or 13s. 4d. or two
A hodle or twopence is 0 0 O^j thirds of a pound is L. 0 J 1^
Aplack,groat, or ftmrpence is 0 0 0T\ A pound is - - 0 1 }}
A shilling is 001 Jamieson's Etymological Dictionary.
396 LANARKSHIRE.
of L. 2 per acre, allowing 200 acres for roads, rivulets, &c. comes
to L. 4720 Sterling, exclusive of the rent of houses in the town,
which, at L. 3 per family, amounts to L. 1200 ; in whole to L. 5920
Sterling.
It appears from the Government official tables laid before Par-
liament on 19th October 1831, that the annual value of the real
property in the parish of Rutherglen as assessed in April 1815 is
L. 977] Sterling, viz. in the burgh L. 5263, parish L. 4508.
Public- Houses. — There are 1108 families in the burgh, and 46
houses in it licensed to sell spirituous liquors. In the landward
part of the parish there are 130 families and 3 public-houses.
Irregular Marriages. — In former times, too great facilities were
given to irregular marriages by the magistrates of Rutherglen, who
frequently received a fee for their trouble, and even at this day a
Rutherglen marriage is too easily obtained. The form is simple.
The couple go before a magistrate, and acknowledge that they
have been married without the proclamation of banns by a person
unauthorized by the church whose name they do not recollect ; and,
in consequence of this irregularity, they acknowledge a fault, and
subject themselves to fine and imprisonment ; on which the magis-
trate fines the parties, remits the imprisonment, and gives an extract
of their acknowledged marriage, which is binding in law.
Benefit Societies. — There are five benefit and two funeral socie-
ties in the parish. Besides weekly aliment paid to sick members,
the friends receive 20s. for funeral expenses. The members of one
of the funeral societies pay Is. 8d. at entry, and 6d. in the month,
and for this the family receives L. 3, 5s. for the funeral of a member
or his wife, and a proportional sum for their children. The other
is a collier society ; the entry money is 2s. 6d. and 9d. in the month.
The colliers dissolve their society at the end of every year and begin
again. These societies are of great use, they tend to keep up a spi-
rit of independence among the working-classes, and relieve the poors'
fund. From 1810 to 1820, the Rutherglen benefit societies paid
L. 1120 in aliment to their members, besides L. 240 for funeral
expenses. These societies contributed L. 40 from their funds to
the relief of cholera cases from 20th February to 10th May 1832.
Fairs. — The best frequented, and probably the most ancient,
of all the fairs in Rutherglen is the one called St Luke's. It be-
gins on the third Monday of October, and used to continue the
whole week,
RUTHERGLEN. * 397
The following is a list of the fairs held in Rutherglen, viz. last
Friday of April ; first Tuesday of June after Trinity Sunday ;
third Friday of July ; third Friday of August ; third Monday of
October ; third Friday of November. All these dates are old
style.* On 1st of October 1670, a numerous list of market dues
were enacted, but they are all but gone out of use except for horses
and cows, which are IJd. and sheep ^d.
Mill. — The only mill in the parish is the town mill, to which all
the burgh lands are astricted or sucken, at the thirlage or multure
of a fortieth part of grain seed and horse corn excepted. The mil-
ler is entitled to half a peck for bannock meal out of every six fir-
lots grinded at the mill, and the multurer or miller's servant has an
additional fee equal to one-half of the bannock meal. The mill
is supplied with water from the Bowtree pond, from 1st March
to 1st of November, and during the other months in the year the
miller has to pay the proprietor of the pond 1 s. per day for the use
of the water. For this and other reasons, the multure was given up
in 1830, and the rent of the mill, which is stated in the Municipal
Report to be L. 30, is reduced to L. 20 per annum.
Cross and Trone. — These ancient appendages to burghs were re-
moved from the main street as incumbrances in 1777. The cross
was made of stone 14 feet high, 14 feet diameter at the base, taper-
ing to the top. The ascent round the pedestal was by twelve steps.
In 1660, Provost Robert Spens made a present to the town of an
oak tree, 18 feet high, which grew on the moor, and from a cross
beam the balances were suspended.
Arms of the Town. — The arms of Rutherglen consist of the Vir-
gin and Babe, attended by two priests holding up thistles in their
hands. On the reverse a ship, with two mariners on board. The
Virgin has probably a reference to the church. The ship to the
navigation of the Clyde.
Rutherglen gave the title of Earl to Lord John Hamilton, fourth
son of William and Anne, Duke and Duchess of Hamilton. He was
baptised at Hamilton 26th January 1665. His patent was dated
* Old Style — The old style, or the Julian Kalendar, remained till 1582, when Pope
Gregory XI II. threw ten days out of the month of October, so many having been in-
troducedinto the computation since the time of the Council of Nice in 325 by,the de-
fect of eleven minutes, so as to restore the equinox to its place, viz. 21st March, and
thus introduced the form of the Gregorian year with such a provision as that the
equinox should be constantly kept to the 21st of March. The kalendar, however, was
still retained in Britain without this correction, whence there was a difference of
eleven days between our time and that of our neighbours. • But by 24th Geo. II.
C. 23, the Gregorian computation was established here, and- accordingly took place
in 1752.
398 LANARKSHIRE.
14th April 1697. On the death of his brother Charles Earl of
Selkirk in 1739, that title and the barony of Crawfordjohn in La-
narkshire devolved on him. The Earl of Ruglen was thenceforth
styled Earl of Selkirk and Ruglen, and dying at Edinburgh, on 3d
December 1744, in the eightieth year of his age, was buried at Cra-
mond. — Douglas's Peerage of Scotland, Vol. ii. p. 457.
Rutherglen Bridge. — A stone bridge of five arches was thrown
over the Clyde between the lands of Shawfield and Barrowfield in
1775. It was built by subscription, and the burgh and inhabi-
tants of Rutherglen contributed about L. 1000 that it might be
free of pontage.
Timber Bridge. — A timber bridge was erected a few years ago
a little farther up the river, and a new line of road opened from the
collieries in Rutherglen to Glasgow, which considerably shortens
the distance. There is a pontage on this bridge for carts, carri-
ages, and foot-passengers.
Mason's Lodges. — There were formerly two mason lodges in the
parish, but now there is only the Rutherglen Royal Arch.
June 1386.
PARISH OF CADDER.
PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — VARIOUS derivations have been assigned to the name
of this parish ; but the most probable is that which traces it to the
ancient British word Calder, signifying " a place beautifully em-
bellished with wood, and copiously supplied with water."
Cadder was probably one of the 365 parishes which St Patrick,
(who was born in the adjoining parish,) erected about 490, and
which Convallus II. (who was born about 558) endowed. The
latter (says Archbishop Spotswood) appointed mansion places to
the clergy, at the churches where they served, with a competent
portion of land there adjoining, and declared the tenth of all corns,
fruits, herbs, and flocks, &c. to belong properly to the church.
Kentigern, called St Mungo, founded a bishoprick at Glasgow
about 560 ; and the parson of Cadder, from his contiguity, was
CADDRR. 399
likely to be one of those who would be selected to bear up the
Bishop's tail.
Extent, Boundaries. — Gadder extends fully 14 miles in length,
from the rivulet that divides the lands of Gartinqueen in Gadder
from the lands of Ramone in New Monkland, to the river Kelvin ,
which separates Gadder from New Kilpatrick, directly opposite to
the splendid mansion of J. C. Colquhoun, Esq. of Killermont. It
averages fully 4 miles in breadth. Its figure is oblong. It is
bounded on the north by Campsie and Kirkintilloch ; on the east
by the New Monkland ; on the south by the Old Monkland and
Barony ; and on the west by New Kilpatrick and Baldernock. It
lies on the northern extremity of the county of Lanark, adjoining
to the counties of Dunbarton and Stirling. ^Its nearest part reach-
es within three miles of the city of Glasgow, and no part of it is
distant from that city above eight miles. It extends within the
eighth part of a mile from the town of Kirkintilloch, and about four
miles from the town of Kilsyth, Cumbernauld, and Airdrie.
Topographical Appearances. — The surface of the parish presents
a series of undulations, from the Kelvin, which bounds it on the
west and north, to the parishes of Barony and Old Monkland.
From the impervious nature of the soil, the greater part of which
is the stiffest till, and the quantity of rain exceeding the average
that is alleged to fall ; from the sponginess of the numerous and
large mosses, and the many lochs that stud its surface ; and from
other circumstances — the atmosphere might be supposed to be
saturated with moisture, and to be considerably deleterious ; yet we
have no local diseases, and in no part of Scotland will the inhabi-
tants be found more healthful.
In 1827 dysentery prevailed to a great extent, and many both
young and old were cut off. Some of the young, unable to take
any sustenance, died in a few days, and some of the middle-aged
lingered for more than a year, till the intestines, were completely
excoriated.
Hydrography. — From the tilly nature of our soil, we have few
good springs. To the Gateside well, close on the south side of
the ancient road from Edinburgh to Glasgow, the minister has
still free ish and entry. On the south side of the road from Auch-
inloch to Glasgow, there is still the Gockplay well, over which many
proprietors and feuars have a servitude. The well on the farm
of Auchinleck by Robroyston burn, is common to all the farmers
round, and has supplied the wants of many churns. The wells
400 LANARKSHIRE.
of Muckcroft and Burnbrae deserve to be noted, though, from the
removal of the ancient inhabitants, it is now little frequented. The
well at Bedlay behoves to be specially mentioned, not only on ac-
count of the copiousness, the constancy, and the salubrity of its wa-
ter, but from an unreasonable attempt in 1807 to deprive the pro-
prietors, feuars and cottagers of Chryston of its benefit, — which
they effectually resisted upon the negative prescription of forty
years undisturbed possession ; while there could be no doubt that
the Grays of Chryston occupied it equally from time immemorial
with the proprietor of Bedlay.
There was an extensive loch in the very centre of the parish,
which gave the name to a property now converted into two farms
by the proprietor of Gadder. It partly gave name to two other pro-
perties, called the Easter and Wester Lumloch ; and, besides other
places, to a considerable township called Auchinloch, whence the
water issued from it. One of the proprietors of the parish com-
menced a drift below one of the gentle ridges which rise from the
parish of Kirkintilloch, which drain needed to be continued near-
ly a mile, but from the unskilfulness or corruptibleness of the mi-
ners, it is said to have ruined three proprietors of the Loch estate.
After it was drained, the . College of Glasgow, the titulars of the
teinds of Gadder, tried to get it valued with the rest of the parish,
but although it cost the then possessor only a very moderate pur-
chase money, the Court of Teinds overruled the attempt. A lint-
mill in the parish of Kirkintilloch has a servitude on its drain, pro-
bably because the stream without detriment was to go through the
lands where it is placed. The sluice may be shut three weeks
after all is shorn, and must be opened again on the first of March.
There was another loch called Loch Grog, which was also drain-
ed in 1808, though the ground is not so firm as to be all yet
arable. Upon it, the proprietors of the Lumlochs, then not fewer
than four, had a servitude for watering their, cattle and steeping
their lint ; and what is more strange, the numerous proprietors of
Balmone in the parish of Baldernock, who hold of the duke of
Montrose, had a similar servitude upon it, though two miles dis-
tant. There is another loch in the west division of the parish
called Robroyston Loch, about one-third of which is in the pa-
rish of Cadder. It is fast filling up, not so much with what is car-
ried into it, as with what grows and decays all around it. It has
been seen by the aged almost completely dry, and the water once
was so thoroughly frozen, that most of the fish, chiefly eels, were im-
CADDER. 401
bedded in the ice. It is surrounded by rising grounds on the one
side, equal (o any acclivity in the parish,-^from which the manure
and even soil is washed, and the burn carries down, in its long and
circuitous course, so much soil, that it needs no dung; but sometimes
the crops are destroyed by the drain not allowing the water to escape
when rapidly collected. Oats grew spontaneously at its brink for
many years. There is a loch in the east end of the parish and district
of Chryston, about a mile directly south from that village, called
Johnston Loch. It is about a mile in circumference, and belongs
to the Forth and Clyde Canal Company. There, is besides, the
Bishop's loch, partly in Cadder, but chiefly in Old Monkland, above
a mile in length, and about a quarter of a mile in average breadth.
It is also one of the chief reservoirs for the Forth and Clyde Canal
Company. Lastly, there is Gartinqueen loch, which is chiefly sup-
plied by a streamlet from the New Monkland parish. Its stream
drives a lint and now also a corn-mill at Croftfoot. It afterwards
joins the issues from the Bishop and Johnston lochs, which are still
further augmented by the issues from two lochs in the parish of
Old Monkland ; and the whole is collected in winter to drive the
flax-mill at Drimcavil. It was wont, prior to the erection of both
of these mills mentioned, to be collected at Bedlay by a strong dam,
so as to cover about two acres, to drive the Bishop's corn-mill at
Bedlay. This dam has been allowed to fall into decay, and the
reservoir has been gradually filled up within about thirty years ;
and latterly, the bed of it has been lessened by sloping down the
almost perpendicular bank at Bedlay house, and most likely it will
never again be attempted to be re-opened. After this large stream
has performed its duty to the ancient mill of the Bishop, it winds
through the delightful vale between Millbrae and Gartferry, adorn-
ed with almost every species of natural under-wood, and every kind
of deciduous forest trees. After Bothland burn has been a good
while detained in this valley, it is again stopped to turn the lint-
mill of Auchengeich. It then rolls on through haughs which
it has raised and fertilized, till it receives the tributary stream
of Garnkirk and Daviston. After being joined by some other
burns, it falls into the Luggie, which, after it has passed the ancient
town of Kirkintilloch, is merged in the Kelvin.
Geology and Mineralogy. — The general direction of the strata
of the transition rocks in the parish, is from north-east to south-
west. Where the new Monkland meets, and indents into the east
end, there is presented an invariable though unequal front of
402 LANARKSHIRE.
whinstone. From it, several ridges have originated, and run like
streams of lava, sometimes rising many feet almost perpendicular
on both sides above the surface, but generally sinking below till
they emerge at Baldernock, New Kilpatrick, or Barony parishes.
The freestone, roughly granulated, rises in several places to the sur-
face, and even a little above it, alternating perhaps with the whin-
stone. In addition to our inexhaustible supply of whinstone and
freestone, there is also abundance of limestone. None of it falls
readily or completely in powder ; but it is all reckoned strong, and
forms a firm band in building. It has been partly wrought throughout
the length of the parish, and is at present wrought on the estates
of Garnkirk, Bedlay, and Shankramuir, to a great extent. A great
part of it is at present required in the surrounding iron-works.
Common bivalve and other shells are found in the limestone. In
1829, and for successive years, the gas issuing from the fissures of
the limestone rock, rose through the earth, and even the water on
its surface, on the small property of the Holms, once belonging to
the lands of Chryston, — and was easily kindled with a match, and
burnt brilliantly on the surface of the water. It was visited by
scientific and other persons, both from Glasgow and Edinburgh.
Coal is universal throughout the parish at considerable depth ; and
what has been wrought to burn the lime is perhaps not even of the
third quality. Larger seams and better coal would doubtless be
discovered at a greater depth. A small seam was lately disco-
vered in the west end of the parish. Any that has yet been wrought
is so far inferior to that in the Monklands and Barony, from which
we are so plentifully and cheaply supplied by means of canals,
railways, and roads, that it will not likely be soon wrought to a
great extent in the parish of Cadder.
There are no other minerals yet discovered in the parish, ex-
cept immense fields of fire clay, on the track of the Garnkirk and
Glasgow railway, and elsewhere. That on the estate of Garn-
kirk varies in thickness from 4 to 19 feet, and is equal if not supe-
rior to Stourbridge clay. That on the estate of Baads, belonging
to Dr Jeffray, is not quite so fine, but is excellent for making fire
brick. At the extensive works on Garnkirk estate, vases and
flower-pots, and cans, and pots, and crucibles are manufactured,
which for elegance and durability are perhaps rarely equalled, so
that they are likely soon to become as general as Newcastle grind-
ing stones. In our limestone tirrings and other places, boulders of
ironstone are frequently found, which would furnish beautiful spe-
CADDER. 403
cimens, if polished by the lapidary ; and it is thought abundance
of the metal cannot be far from being discovered.
The soils of this parish are almost of every description. On
the banks of the Kelvin, Luggie, and Bothland, and other stream-
lets, the soil is to a certain extent alluvial. We have next a very
light sandy soil in many places, upon deep water-laid gravel.
There is, thirdly, in several places a soil a little more earthy, form-
ed chiefly of the whinstone rock. Fourthfy, We have a deep
black soil, nearly allied to, and perhaps chiefly composed of, moss.
Fifthly, There is a thin mossy soil mixed with white sand. Last-
ly, we have, on by far the greater part of the parish, a deep stiff
tilly soil, containing scarcely a stone, but generally tinged with iron
for many fathoms, until we arrive at some mineral or metal. We
have, moreover, eight or nine mosses, some of them of great depth
and extent. Some have already been reclaimed, and they are all
gradually, and some of them rapidly, lessening by peat-cutting, — so
that oats, rye-grass, and even wheat, grow luxuriantly, where the
adder basked, the moorfowl fed, and the long heath waved.
Botany. — In such a diversity of soils, and on such an extent of
surface, we have a great number of plants. I shall enumerate a
few, most of which are rather rare.
Adoxa Moschatellina, Milium effusum,
Achillea millefolium, Melica uniflora et coerulea,
Alisma ranunculoides, Myosotis palustris,
Briza media, Menyantbes trifoliata,
Circaea lutetiana, Nymphaea alba,
Ccntunculus minimus, Nuphar lutea,
Convolvulus sepium, Nasturtium amphibum,
Cicuta virosa, Ophioglossum vulgatum,
Cardamine ainara, Orchis mascula et latifolia et tnaculatn.
Digitalis purpurea, Pinguicula vulgaris,
Epipactis latifolia, Poa decumbens,
Galium cruciatum, Polygon um bistorta,
Gentiana campestris, Pyrola media,
Gnaphalium sylvaticum et rectum, et Polypodium vulgare et pbegopteris et
minimum, dryopteris,
Gymnadenia conopsea, Ranunculus hederaceus et lingua, et
Hippuris vulgaris, auricomus,
Hyacinthus non scriptus, Scirpus sylvaticus,
Hypericum humifusum et pulchrum , Sherardia arvensis,
Habenaria bifolia, Symphytum tuberosum,
Jasione montana, Solanum dulcamara,
Lysimachia thyrsiflora, Spergula nodosa,
Ligusticum meum, Sparganium ramosum,
Linum catharticum, Tormentilla reptans,
Sison inundatum, Trollius Europaeus,
Lamium incisum, Veronica scutellata et montana,
Leontodon palustre, Valeriana officinalis,
Listera ovata, \iolapalustriset odor ata et tricolor.
On Gadder estate, there is one plantation that is called the
Wilderness. It was designed, it is said, to represent the arrange-
404 LANARKSHIRE.
ment of lines in the battle of Dettingen. There are many trees
of great size and age on the estate, and especially around the house
of Cadder. The quantity of planting on Gadder estate, compris-
ing 4078 acres, is considerably above 280 acres. Garnkirk estate,
consisting of 1457 acres, contains 150 of planting. Bedlay es-
tate, which, when possessed by the Robertons, after the Earl of
Kilma'rnock, contained so much planting, has now only 20 acres
under wood. On Robroyston estate, which consists of about 550
acres, there are not above 10 acres of planting. The greater part
of the natural wood in the parish is on the banks of Millbrae and
Gartferry, and on the estates of Auchengeich and Cadder.
The love of money, and the desire to lay house to house, and
field to field, have made many parts of this .parish, once popu-
lous, now a wilderness. The few who yet linger here of former
generations can tell of ten farm-steadings in their remembrance
now effaced from the map of the parish. Within the last twenty-
six years, no fewer than thirteen properties, some of them of consi-
derable extent, and which were considered as secure as the founda-
tions of the everlasting hills, have from necessity exchanged pro-
prietors, and the decent families have been reduced and scattered.
Many passages in the Deserted Village, apply strongly and ap-
propriately to the parish of Cadder.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
There is a tradition that, about the year 1666, the plague visit-
ed Auchenairn, and other villages in the parish.
Distinguished Families. — The Grays of Chryston were a fami-
ly of very considerable antiquity, possessed of a large property,
and who cultivated an ardent, rational, and scriptural piety. The
first feu-charter is granted by Walter, heritable proprietor of the
lordship arid barony of Glasgow, to John Gray of Chryston, No-
vember 1589. The family is now extinct. The last that died
should have been called Purdon, but he preferred and continued
the name of Gray.
Two of the Muirs of Gartferry, a rather ancient and respect-
able family, the last the great-grandfather of the present proprie-
tor, are still spoken of by every aged person in the parish as re-
markable for piety.
Dr William Leechman, Principal of the University of Glas-
gow, was proprietor of the estate of Auchenairn. In 1764, he gave
a house for the teacher, and a school for the children, and the elec-
tion of the schoolmaster to the moderator and remanent members
3
GADDER. 405
of the kirk-session of Cadder, and their successors in office, and
about a rood of land, for a yard, — under the express condition, that
the schoolmaster teach the youth literature and Christian know-
ledge. The ground has been considerably encroached upon by
the adjacent feuars ; and a new and superior house was erected in
1826, chiefly by the late Charles Stirling, Esq. assisted by the late
Archibald Lament of Robroyston, Esq. and others.
It is notorious, that the curate of Cadder intimated the sentence
of ejection to the Rev. William Guthrie, minister of Fenwick, on
24th July 1664 ; and it is said he never returned again to his cu-
racy.
Thomas Muir, Esq. advocate, who was banished in 1793 for
advocating the principles of Reform, was brought up at Hunters-
hill in this parish.
James Boyd of Trochrig, minister of Kirkoswald, was the first
regularly appointed Protestant archbishop of Glasgow. He was
raised to the see in 1572. He feued the lands of Bedlay to Lord
Boyd, afterwards. Earl of Kilmarnock.
The estate of Garnkirk belonged to the Dunlops, also a respect-
able family, of whom Colin Dunlop, Esq. lately one of the mem-
bers of Parliament for Glasgow, is the representative. Both pro-
perties were held for a short time, and transmitted to the present
possessors, on whom they are now entailed, by the late John Mac-
kenzie, Esq. The Peters, late of Crossbasket, were the last pos-
sessors of the estate of Carderroch, now, with other lands, an un-
entailed part of the estate of Cadder. It was the practice of the
respectable families in the parish, to bury in the aisle or middle
passage of the church, and some of them below their own seats.
Land-owners. — The chief proprietors are Archibald Stirling,
Esq. of Keir, Cadder, and Kenmure in Scotland, and Hampden,
and other large estates in Jamaica;* Mark Sprot, Esq. of Garn-
kirk ; Alexander Campbell, Esq. of Bedlay ; and La-
mont, Esq. of Ardlamont and Robroyston. These four proprie-
tors possess above L. 400 Scots valuation. The properties of
the two last, and by far the lowest, yield about L. 1000 Sterling,
annually.
James Denniston, Esq. of Golfhill, banker in Glasgow, proprie-
tor of Easter Muckcroft and Langrig, part of the lands of Chrys-
ton ; Robert Buchanan, Esq. of Drumpeller, proprietor of Gartin-
* In 15'jj, the estate of Cadder came into the possession of Keir by his eldest
son marrying the heiress of Cadder.
LANARK. D d
406 LANARKSHIRE.
queen ; Adam Cubie of Auchenloch ; John Scott of Auchenloch ;
David Dobie of Gartferry ; the heirs of John Gibson, late proprie-
tor of Johnston ; the heirs of the late James Hill of Busby, pro-
prietor of Gartcosh ; James Campbell of Auchenairn ; James Gray
of Auchengeich; Patrick Scot of Auchenairn, — are all commission-
ers in the parish, possessed of at least L. 100 Scots valuation.
Dr James Jeffray, Professor of Anatomy in the College of Glas-
gow, proprietor of Baads ; Hugh Robertson of Gartloch ; John
Muir of Gartferry ; James Millar of Miilersneuck ; Charles A.
King, Woodneuck ; James Tennent, Croftfoot ; Robert Bogle,
Auchinloch ; David Scales Cleland, Springfield ; John Drew,
Burnbrae ; William Dick, Lumloch ; James Jarvie, Woodhill ;
James Watson, Holms ; James Johnston, Wester Muckcroft ;
Mr Cater, Auldyards ; William Scott, Mirymailing ; Mark Ste-
venson, Boghead ; John Macdougal, Glenbank ; Mr Perston,
Auldyards ; John Carss, Lochbank ; Misses Calders, Daviston ;
William Davison, Auchenairn ; Henry Glen, Cladding ; Alexan-
der Galloway, Huntershill ; are all possessed of properties in the
parish, above, and most of them much above L. 50 Sterling, per an-
num.
Parochial Registers. — The parochial register for births and
baptisms, commences 28th September 1662; proclamations, 1st
March 1663. There are rules at the beginning of the volume for
the regulation of kirk-sessions, dated " apud Glasgow, 8th -April
1672." This volume is in an excellent state of preservation.
Births and baptisms begin at the one end of the volume, and pro-
clamations commence at the other. There are two more vo-
lumes, one finished, and the other in progress. The records
of the kirk-session commence September 14, 1688. The first
and part of the second volume are also in an excellent state of pre-
servation. There have been no minutes of the session recorded
during the whole of Mr Alexander Dun's incumbency, a period of
more than forty years ; and nine years of the incumbency of Mr
Warden are also lost. There is a blank in the records of session
from May 8, 1737, till 27th March 1791.
Antiquities. — The Bishops-mill may be reckoned among the an-
tiquities of this parish. Every heritor in the Bishops-land (called
anciently the Baldermonocks Ward or Monks-town, and compre-
hending ten townships, each of which contained eight ploughgates
of land, and which comprehends the whole of the parish except the
ancient entailed estate of Cadder, which was not more than half
CADDER. 407
the present estate) is and must be seised in it, else his titles are not
valid. The whole of the parish, except the old entailed estate of
Cadder and the Midtown of Bedlay (says the writer of the former
Account) belonged to the subdeanery of Glasgow. From this ec-
clesiastical tenure are derived the names of several places in the
parish, such as Bishop's bridge ; — the Bishop's moss between Hun-
tershill and Springfield ; and the Bishop's loch (now subject to
the glorious uncertainty of the law) between Cadder and old
Monkland.
Another antiquity in the parish was the house, a few yards south-
west from the mansion-house of Robroyston, where Sir William
Wallace is said to have been betrayed by his kinsman Sir John
Monteith, on the llth September 1303. Every vestige of the
house in which he was betrayed is now gone.
Part of the Roman wall, built by Lollius Urbicus, forms the north
boundary of the present glebe, intervening between it and the ca-
nal. It was above thirty-six miles in length, and the ditch forty-
seven feet wide and twenty-two feet deep.
When Cadder pond was cleaned and repaired in 1813, a coin
or medal of Antoninus Pius was found in an excellent state of
preservation, but with a little piece broken or worn off. It was
supposed to be of gold. It was given to the late Charles Stir-
ling, Esq. In the following year, when levelling the lawn in
the front of Cadder House, part of the foundations of the old
tower were discovered, and a vessel full of gold coins, which the
workmen carried away with them. A few of them were reco-
vered in Glasgow. They were generally about the size of a shil-
ling. The number found must have been at least 350 ; they bore
the inscription Jacobus. *
Modern Buildings. — Among the modern buildings in the parish,
a drawing-room added to the house of Cadder deserves to be
mentioned, for the skill of the architect, David Hamilton, and the
taste of the proprietor, Charles Stirling, Esq. It may also be no-
ticed that John Knox dispensed the sacrament of the Supper in
the hall of the house of Cadder. Mark Sprott of Garnkirk, Esq.
has built a neat modern mansion in the parish. The other man-
sion-houses are at Gartloch, Springfield, Bedlay, Robroyston,
Gartferry, and Glaudhall.
* Some other minor antiquities are noticed in the MS.
408 LANARKSHIRE.
III. — POPULATION.
The population in 1755, - 2936
1792, - 1767
1801, - 2120
1811, - 2487
1821, - 2798
1831, 3048— males 1 000, females 1448.
Taking old and new Auchenairn as one village, we have eight
villages in the parish, viz. Cadder, Bishops-bridge, and Auchen-
airn in the west division of the parish ; Auchenloch, Chryston,
Muirhead, Mudiesburn, and Mollenburn in the eastern district.
Of these, Chryston is the largest, and by far the most handsome,
and might become a large and neat village, if it had water; but it
depends almost entirely on the well of Bedlay, which is at least
the eighth part of a mile distant, and has a very steep descent to it.
Chryston contains 84 families and 374 persons; Auchenairn, old and
new, 60 families and 284 persons; Bishops-bridge, 38 families and
175 persons; Mollenburn, 32 families and 172 persons. This village
is well situated for wood and water and whinstone rock, and might be-
come a handsome village, were the feu more moderate. Mudiesburn,
30 families and 143 persons ; Cadder, which used to contain at least
50 families, contains now only 13 families, and 64 persons, all em-
ployed on the estate of Cadder ; Auchenloch, 17 families, 89 per-
sons ; Muirhead, 9 families, and 40 persons. The lime, coal, and
clay-works at Garnkirk, have collected a very considerable popu-
lation, of such a description as is found about newly erected pub-
lic works.
The average number of births registered for the last seven
years, is about fifty ; proclamations, twenty-five ; deaths or burials,
about thirty. The births have never been all registered, though
those who are not able to pay, get them recorded gratis. Some
have always buried in other parishes. In 1828, a bury ing-ground
was purchased at Chryston, where the greater part in that division
of the parish now bury. The ground is sold in perpetuity in
three lairs, the highest cost of which is L. 3 in the very best
situations. It has been drained, but being an impervious till,
the draining has had little effect. The private bury ing-places,
said to be six in number, by the writer of the last Account,
viz. Chryston, Bedlay, Gartferry, Auchingeish, Easter Muck-
croft, and the tombs at Auchenairn, are fast falling into decay.
Over Chryston tomb, where many of the Grays of Chryston and
others repose, the Cumbernauld road has now been carried.
There are three fatuous persons in the parish, one of them deaf
CADDKU. 400
and dumb, one furious and confined; five deaf and dumb, and four
of them in one family.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — The rental of the parish is about L. 14,000, in-
cluding every burden the farmer bears, — without taking into account
the feus paid to the different superiors. There are about 110 far-
mers in the parish. Of these, two pay above L. 500 of rent, two above
L. 400, one above L. 300, sixteen above L. 200, thirty-nine above
L. 100, nineteen above L. 50. The largest farmers employ about six
men and four women, all in the house : the rest in proportion, — but
fewer or sometimes none, if their families are numerous and grown.
— There are almost no cottars under the farmers. The cottars
Saturday or even Sabbath night will soon not be known in Scot-
land. We have comparatively very few labourers. Our farmers
dwell alone, quite detached. We have, of course, a number of
feuars in our villages. None of them are beyond sixty years stand-
ing. The destruction of the old townships originated and in-
creased the feuars. The erection of the chapel at Chryston in
1779, gave occasion to feus in that village. Several of the feuars
are bound, in their titles, to pay cess and teind, and other public
and parochial burdens; and they are classed among and rank as
heritors. Neither superiors nor feuars had, so far as we can learn,
any object in view when they so designed them, but that they
might so far free the superior. They are not rated in the cess-
books, nor have they hitherto paid any teind. It was only ascer-
tained in 1816 that they were heritors and patrons of the parish.
There are about 8700 acres in cultivation. There are more
than 300 acres of deep moss. There may be about an acre on which
the whinstone rises at least twenty feet perpendicular on both sides ;
and about three acres on which the freestone rises to the surface.
The rest is covered with planting, fences, streams, and roads, and
lakes. The commonties are all done away. But there are still
about three acres at Muirhead near Chryston, on which the old feu-
ars at Chryston have a servitude for feal and divot, to keep their
houses in repair. They can take only the surface while heath,
rushes, or grass continue to cover it.
Live-Stock. — Our cows are all of the Ayrshire breed, and it is al-
leged that we have surpassed the original. It is said that some of the
farmers' wives have boasted that they realized fourteen pounds of but-
ter from each cow. We can raise grain on some parts of the parish
equal to any or to most in Scotland ; but the butter milk and butter
410 LANARKSHIRE.
still may be said to pay our rents, when they are brought to Glasgow
from a circle of at least fourteen miles round. Almost every farmer
has a churning as well as a thrashing machine, all driven by horse
power; and the quantity of milk that is taken to Glasgow, sweet and
sour, every day, is almost incredible.
Some of our farmers are considered the best ploughmen in the
Old Monkland, Barony, Bothwell, and Cadder Farming Society,
and have carried off the highest prizes where they competed. Drain-
ing has been for a long time attended to, and is now carried on with
the greatest vigour, and to the utmost extent. The proprietor in ge-
neral opens the drains, and the farmer carries and puts in the stones,
wood, turf, or tiles, and closes them. A rush bush is likely soon to be
as rare as a stone in our tilly soil, and not a drop of water will be seen
where the soil is lighter. The heath and indigenous grass which
have been long striving to gain their former dominion, will soon be ba-
nished, and a softer and more varied carpet will be presented by
our pastures. The general duration of leases is nineteen years.
The state of the farm buildings is in general good ; and in some in-
stances they are elegant and commodious. The soil has hitherto,
for the most part, been unfavourable to hedges; and we cannot say
that they have been carefully trained. We had few inclosures of
any kind prior to 1790.
Produce, — We raise annually about 510 acres of wheat, 1900
of oats, 103 of barley, 150 of beans, 470 of potatoes, 140 of tur-
nips, 890 of rye-grass, 80 of flax, and 7 of natural hay. There are
about 1000 cows, 490queys, 150 calves, 320 horses, 50 colts, and
20 foals. To these we may add about 10 pet sheep, and at pre-
sent 2 goats.
We have no pasturage to let, unless on a farm when accidental-
ly out of lease, or the lawns around some mansion-house, which
are generally occupied by the Glasgow butchers. 'Our young cattle
are generally grazed on the braes of Campsie or Kilsyth, or on
some other lands somewhat distant from Glasgow.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Means of Communication. — Glasgow is the post-office for part
of the parish ; but Kirkintilloch, to those who live near it. The
Inchbelly road, by Kirkintilloch, runs about four miles through the
west division of the parish, and the Cumbernauld road runs nearly
the same length through the other district of the parish. They are
both pretty well kept.
We have not above five of what can be called bridges, all of one
CADDER. 411
arch, and two of these over the Garnkirk and Kirkintilloch rail-
ways. They are all new and substantial. The Forth and Clyde
Canal intersects the west end of the parish, running nearly parallel
with the Kelvin for about five miles, and has four draw-bridges upon
it in that space. The shipping upon it from Grangemouth, where
it joins* the Forth, to Bowling Bay, where it joins the Clyde, is very
great. The number of passengers in the swift boats was in 1835
immense, though the boats have not even the essentially necessary
accommodations. They convey even the loaded carts of carriers
along it.
The Kirkintilloch railway was opened in 1826, and cost about
L. 7000 per mile. It intersects the east end of the parish, about
five miles almost directly across. From the canal 160 feet above
the sea level, formed by twenty locks, rising each eight feet, the ter-
mination of the railway may rise ten feet to allow the vessels to lie
along-side to receive the coals and lime, &c. brought down in the
waggons ; it continues to rise occasionally throughout its course to
the loch of Gartinqueen. This railway is mostly single, and has a
great trade in coals, and is beginning and will continue progressively
to be profitable. The Garnkirk and Glasgow railway skirts the south
side of the parish for about five miles. It is altogether double, and
was formed at the cost of about L. 12,000 per mile. It was open-
ed in 1831. It has some deep excavations and high embankments.
It has not yet begun to pay, and it cannot be conjectured when it
will do so.
Besides these public turnpikes and railways and the canal, we
have at least thirty-five miles of parish roads ; for making and repair-
ing of which, upwards of L. 10 per mile annually have been raised
and are said to have been expended, for about twenty years ; and
yet the roads are in many places scarcely passable. • The lines are
bad, circuitous and hilly, their width is not regular, and they are
not managed as the act directs.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated about four
miles from the westmost houses, and nine miles from the eastmost.
It was built in 1829-30, and opened on the 5th September
] 830. It is considered particularly neat and commodious, slightly
Gothic, with a neat square tower. It contains 740 sittings at 18
inches to a sitter, and cost fully L. 2000. On sacramental occa-
sions, 1000 persons are seated in it, while hundreds stand. There
are no free sittings. There have been many benefactions left to
the parish ; but they have disappeared when no session records
412 LANARKSHIRE.
were kept, partly from the persons who had the care of the money
becoming insolvent. The kirk-session had above L. 400 morti-
fied for the poor, and solely at their disposal ; but it was all ex-
pended during the time that the settlement of the minister was
opposed.
The present manse was built in 1794, and received a partial
repair in 1819. It was originally insufficient, and no repairs will
ever make it comfortable. The extent of the glebe is about 10
acres of very light land. The extent of glebe in 1793, was 4
acres, 1 rood, and 26 falls, and about 20 acres of bog undivided
from it, which Mr Dun claimed as part of his glebe ; and the mi-
nisters of Cadder, for at least 800 years, could get water for their
cattle without possessing all the solid part of it, which some say ex-
tended to six, others to eight acres. The minister besides, had a
right of pasturage over at least 100 acres of moor, on which and the
bog, he ordinarily grazed three cows, two horses, and some young cat-
tle. In 1793, an excambion took place, and part of the glebe on the
west of the canal, was exchanged for very inferior land on the east of
the canal ; and four acres were obtained for the servitude over the
moor. The bog was neither inspected nor excambed ; but was af-
terwards held as included in the excambion, the minister receiving
for tent-ground a piece of waste land of about an acre in extent.
The excambion was encroached upon, when the fence between the
glebe and the lands of Crofthead was drawn. The extent of the
glebe was thereby greatly lessened.
Cadder parish was mostly valued between 1735 and 1750j»and
though extensive, it had then neither roads nor fences, and the
greatest part of it being covered with heath, rushes, and reeds, was va-
lued very low. The College of Glasgow were then titulars of the
teinds, and the professors were disposed to value it wholly in money,
except about as much meal and barley as they might require. The
money stipend amounts to L. 211, 13s. 4d. The meal is 56
bolls, 1 firlot, 2 pecks. The bear 5 bolls, 3 firlots, averaging be-
tween L. 260 and 270. There was an augmentation obtained in
1819, which cannot be realized, as the teinds are exhausted, and
the College have surrendered them to the incumbent, who draws
as stated above, communibus annis.
There was, in the corner of the park belonging to Mr Robert
Bogle, about twenty yards from the road leading past Auchenloch
to Kirkintilloch on the south, and about equally distant on the
north from the road, from Auchenloch to Chryston, a meeting-
CADDER. 413
house, as it was then called, — where the minister of Gadder preach-
ed every third Sabbath, at least since the Revolution in 1688.
There, every proprietor had his pew as well as in the parish kirk,
though it was chiefly for the accommodation of the eastern divi-
sion of the parish. This meeting-house was afterwards supersede
ed by the erection of a chapel in the village of Chryston. The
proprietors and inhabitants in the east district, particularly, contri-
buted to its erection. The labourers quarried the stones gratui-
tously, and the farmers carted them and the lime. This chapel is
now erected into the church of Chryston quoad sacra. Mr Provan
was the first preacher in the chapel, at L. 50 per annum. The
Rev. John Dick, late minister of Rutherglen, was the first ordain-
ed minister, at the same stipend. In his time, a manse was erect-
ed ; but it is the property of the managers in trust. The pre-
sent legal stipend is L. 70, — which every person must admit to
be greatly too little. The chapel is seated to contain about 500
persons, but the sittings are a third more closely compacted than
in the parish church. The chapel is generally well attended. Di-
vine service is also well attended in the parish church. About
300 persons communicate in the church, and perhaps rather more
in the chapel.
Education. — There are seven schools in the parish. Three pa-
rochial, Cadder, Chryston and Auchenairn. One endowed. Auch-
enloch. Two unendowed, Mollenburn and Crofthead. One sup-
ported by Mrs Stirling at Bishop-bridge. The first parochial
schoolmaster at Cadder has a chalderand a half of salary, amount-
ing to L. 25, 13s. 4d. and about the same amount from school fees.
The other parochial schoolmaster in Auchenairn has halfachalder,
and about L. 38, of school wages. His school is also endowed with
the interest of 1000 merks, mortified by the late Rev. James
Warden. The school at Auchenloch is endowed with the interest
of at least L. 300, left by the late Patrick Baird, merchant. The
parochial schoolmaster at Chryston has a chalder of salary, and
the school fees may average L. 50 annually. The unendowed
school at Mollanburn may produce from L. 20 to L. 30 annually
from school fees. The unendowed school at Gartinqueen may
produce about L. 20 from school fees. The infant and sewing school
at Bishop-bridge, originated by the amiable widow of the late
Charles Stirling, Esq. is supported by her and her brother-in-law
Mr Stirling of Cadder. They have built a good school-house, and
allow L. 30 annually to the mistress, with the profits of the school,
414 LANARKSHIRE.
which are hot great. The parochial schoolmasters have all more
than the legal accommodation, except the schoolmaster at Chrys-
ton, who has no garden, and an insufficient dwelling-house.
The teachers have all attended the University of Glasgow ; and
the principal teacher is a preacher of the Gospel. There are few,
if any, persons belonging to the parish who cannot read ; but some
of the children of the weavers who cannot earn above 6s. a week
are put very early to drawing and even weaving, and are but par-
tially taught. We have at least three Sabbath schools in the west
division of the parish, supported by the lady before-mentioned.
There are small juvenile libraries attached to three of the Sunday
schools by Mrs Stirling, A library was originated last year at Au-
chenairn. There is a library also begun at Chryston.
Societies. — We have two charitable societies in the west district
of the parish, of about thirty years standing. They do some good
to decayed members; but had it not been for extraneous aid, they
would have been far reduced, if not completely sunk. There was
one in Chryston, perhaps more flourishing than either of them, and
which had existed longer, but it was by general consent dissolved
and the stock divided.
Savings Bank. — The late Charles Stirling, Esq. about ten
years ago, established a savings bank, upon the liberal principle of
giving at least one per cent, above any chartered, united, or indi-
vidual banks. The whole of the parishioners, and even those in
contiguous parishes, are allowed to lodge their savings in it. A
great deal has been lodged ; but not chiefly by those for whom such
banks are intended. It promises fair to supplant all the friendly
societies. The same active and enterprising merchant bequeathed to
the kirk-session of Cadder, the right of recommending three patients
to the Royal Infirmary of Glasgow. The parish had previously the
right of recommending at least one patient.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons
receiving parochial aid is 16. The average allowance per month
is 4s. 4d. in the east district, and a little less in the west. There
are two persons in the asylum, supported at an average of 9s. Id.
weekly. At the church and chapel, the collections amount to
about L. 27 annually, nearly in equal proportions. The deficien-
cy is made up by voluntary assessment. Besides the supply of the
regular poor by the collections and voluntary contributions, a small
proprietor of Slakiewood in the east district, named Walter Barton,
burdened his property in perpetuity with L. 5 Sterling annually, to
CADDER. 415
be given to poor householders in the district of Chryston, not upon
the roll, — so long as a board was kept upon the chapel in Chryston
in good order, and a tombstone also in good repair in the church-
yard of Cadder, recording the donation. These boards were com-
mon in the olden time. In the parish church of Cadder, there were a
great many keeping in remembrance the sums mortified for their
particular use?, by the beneficent individuals. They were all, very
improperly, cast above the ceiling in 1784, when the late church
was lathed and plastered. When it was taken down, the only one
that was rescued was that of the Rev. Mr Warden, recording his
mortification of 1000 merks to the school of Auchenairn. It is much
decayed. Mr Hamilton of Mavisbank lately left to the kirk-ses-
sion L. 50 Sterling, which is deposited in the Glasgow bank, and
aids a little in supplying destitute householders. Beside all this,
the necessitous householders would sometimes suffer severely, were
it not for the help they receive from their working brethren. No
less than L. 9 were collected lately for one destitute family, all al-
most from the working classes. It must be noticed that the extra col-
lection at the sacrament in Cadder is immediately divided among
the needy, — over and above their regular supply. This may ave-
rage L. 7. At Chryston, the extra collection is given to the mi-
nister, to defray public and private expenses.
Fair. — There was a fair held in Chryston for fat cattle, and
other things about Martinmas: but it gradually dwindled away
about the beginning of the present century.
Inns, fyc. — Of inns and alehouses, there are at present no fewer
than 21 ; but not more than nine would be required. There is one
distillery in the parish ; and another was lately erected, — but lucki-
ly there was not a sufficient supply of water, and it was converted
into a farm-steading.
The fuel that is used in the parish is chiefly, it may be said sole-
ly, coal. Coals when carted above five miles cost 5s. 6d. the 12 cwt.
June 1836.
PARISH OF CAMBUSLANG.
PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. JOHN ROBERTSON, D. D. MINISTER.*
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — IN the last Statistical Report, it is stated that this pa-
rish was anciently called Drumsargard; but this appears to be a
mistake. In the seventeenth century, the name of the barony of
Drumsharg or Drumsargard, which includes the larger portion of the
parish, was changed to Cambuslang, the name the parish always
bore; and hence, probably, the misapprehension into which the late
Dr Meek, Anderson in his Diplom. Scotiae, and others have fallen.
Cam in the British and Celtic, transformed by the Scoto- Saxons
into Cambus, signifies bending or bowed, — usg or uisg means water,
— and glan, which in composition becomes Ian, denotes a bank or
bank of a water; — thus Cambuslang appears to signify' the " water
with the bending bank." But whether the Cam or Cambus is to be
sought for in the bending banks of the rivulet which passes the
church, or in the magnificent sweep of the Clyde, as it winds round
the northern end of the parish, it is impossible to say.
Extent — Boundaries. — The length of the parish from near
Stonymeadow toll-bar on the south, to the Clyde near Kenmuir on
the north, is 3^ miles ; and from the eastern boundary of Carmun-
nock near Fishes Coat, on the west, to the point where the waters
of the Calder fall into the Clyde on the east, it is nearly the same
across. It is bounded by the Clyde on the north, which separates
it from the parish of Old Monkland ; by the Calder on the east,
which separates it from Blantyre; by part of Blantyre and Kil-
bryde, on the south ; and by Carmunnock and Rutherglen, on the
west.
Topographical Appearances. — It forms a very irregular quadri-
lateral figure, one part of it jutting a considerable way into the pa-
* Drawn up by the Rev. William Patrick. The notes to the account of the " Cam-
buslang Work" ;tre supplied by a clergyman who was for some time minister of an
adjoining parish.
CAMBUSLANG. 417
rish of Ruthergleu, in the north-west corner. According to an au-
thentic and very accurate survey, it contains 8.50 square miles, and
4325 statute acres. Lying at the north-west extremity of the great
trough of the Clyde, near the western boundary of the district of
Clydesdale, the greater part of the parish exhibits a low undulating
surface, and forms part of the great vale on which the city of Glas-
gow stands. The high grounds at Turnlaw and Dechmont, towards
the south-west, which form a ridge about half a mile broad, and
extending nearly two miles from east to west, are a continuation
of the same range of whin hills which separate Douglas and Les-
mahago from Ayrshire, and running through Avondale, Stonehouse,
Hamilton, Blantyre, and Cambuslang, terminate in the county of
Renfrew. Dechmont is about 600 feet above the level of the sea ;
but as it lies in a comparatively level country, the view from it is
very extensive. Towards the south-east, Tinto, the Tweeddale, and
Pentland hills are distinctly seen ; and to the north-west, the " lof-
ty Benlomond," and many of the hills of Cowal and Breadalbane.
Among these last, the conical summit of Ben Loe, which is part-
ly covered with snow from the end of October to the beginning of
July, makes a conspicuous figure. But (as the writer of the last
account of this parish justly remarks) " the beauties of this pros-
pect lie nearer at hand and more immediately in view, comprehend-
ing the strath of Clyde, from Lanark on the one hand, to Dum-
barton on the other." Amidst the amazing variety of objects which
here present themselves to the eye of the spectator, the most striking
are the windings of the river, and its banks adorned with villages,
towns, and gentlemen's seats; the extensive woods and plantations
about Hamilton; the magnificent ruins of Bothwell Castle; but
above all, the large and populous city of Glasgow, with its nume-
rous spires and beautiful cathedral.
Meteorology. — The air, as in other places in the neighbourhood,
varies considerably according to elevation and the nature of the soil.
In the low dry sheltered lands near the Clyde and Calder, it is gene-
rally mild and temperate; but towards the west and south-west, espe-
cially about Dechmont and Turnlaw, it is sharper and more incle-
ment. No diseases are peculiar to the climate ; but small-pox,
which was scarcely heard of for many years, is again beginning to
make its appearance, and often in an aggravated form. The cli-
mate is so mild that snow seldom lies in the lower parts of the pa-
rish towards the Clyde ; but in the high grounds towards the south
west, Dechmont often assumes a wintry shroud. Almost every fa-
418
LANARKSHIRE.
mily of any consequence is now possessed of a thermometer, baro-
meter, and hygrometer, which are hung up in a handsome maho-
gany frame as a piece of ornamental furniture. But few who are
possessed of these instruments make any use of them, or know
their value. We must therefore have recourse to other sources.
From the most careful inquiry, it appears that the following
tables, drawn up by the late Dr Meek from observations made at
the manse of Cambuslang, from 1st January 1785 to 31st Decem-
ber 1791, are the most correct which can be procured, and accord
best with the present state of the climate. The three first co-
lumns contain the mean, the greatest, and least height of the ba-
rometer ; the three next, the mean, the greatest, and least height
of the thermometer ; the four following, the average number of
days in which the wind blew from the N. E., the S. E., the S. W.,
and the N. W. quarters ; the two last, the average number of dry
and wet days. The barometer was marked every day at 8 o'clock
in the morning, and 10 o'clock at night; the thermometer, not
only at these times, but also at 2 o'clock afternoon ; so that co-
lumns first and fourth express the mean height between these ex-
tremes of the day. The situation of the manse is about 200 feet
above the level of the sea, and about two miles north of Dechmont.
The last column is supplied from a rain-gage kept within a mile
of the eastern border of the parish.
Barometer.
Thermometer.
Winds.
Weather.
Rain
in
M. H.
G. H.
L. H.
M. H.
G. H.
L. H.
N E
S E
S W
NW
Dry.
Wet.
inches.
Jan.
29. 55 30. 47
28. 20
38. °2
52°
3°
7
6
15
3
14
17
1.541
Feb.
29. 59
30. 65
28. 48
38. 9
55
13
7
4
15
2
14
14
.836
March,
29.69
30. 50
28. 60
39. 7
58
18
9
5
12
5
17
14
1.55
April,
29. 72
'30. 30
28. 70
46. 2
70
27
12
2
12
4
17
13
1.134
May,
29. 74
30. 28
28. 52
52. 3
80
36
10
3
15
3
17
14
1 963
June,
29. 70
30. 20
28. 06
58. 4
85
48
10
2
15
3
18
12
1.148
July,
29.53
30. 22
28. 78
59. 3
77
47
5
3
18
5
12
19
2591
Aug.
29. 61
30. 26
28. 90
59. 3
77
45
7
3
18
3
14
17
1.532
Sept.
29. 59
30. 24
28. 44
54. 5
77
36
7
4
16
3
15
15
2.164
Oct.
29. 51
30. 4$
23. 38
47. 8
65
26
10
4
14
3
14
17
2.039
Nov.
29. 48 30. 24
28. 48
41. 3
36
21
11
6
10
3
18
12
2699
Dec.
29. 39
30. 14
28. 50
37. 6
34
3
9
5
14
3
15
16
2.478
29. 59 30. 65
28. 20
47. 9
85
3
8.6
3.9
14.£
3.3
15.4
15
21.056
The mean monthly and quarterly temperature in 1820 was as
follows :
Winter.
M . H.
Spring.
M. H.
Summer.
M.H.
Autumn.
M. H.
Nov.
499
Feb.
38.
May,
54.
August,
61.6
Dec.
393
March,
43.9
June,
58.7
Sept.
57-8
Jan.
36.1
April,
49.9
July,
61.
Oct.
48.9
Mean, 42. 1
43.6
56 1
Time.
Temp, in shade.
1 h.
45 min. -
55°.
2
_
55.9
2
30
55.9
2
45
56.
3
15
55.2
3
30
55.
3
45
55.
4
_
55.4
4
15
56.
CAM BUS LANG. 419
The thermometer is always highest between 2 and 3 o'clock in
the afternoon, and lowest at 5 o'clock in the morning. During
the great annular solar eclipse, May 15th 1836, the thermometer
exhibited the following phenomena :
Previous temperature in shade, 56° ; in sun, 61°"
Temp, in sun.
59°.7
59.4
58.
57.5
57 .7
56.2
57.3
57 .6
57.8
Hydrography. — The Clyde runs about three and a-half miles
on the north of the parish. Its general course through the middle
ward is from south-east to north-west ; but here, if we take it from
the point where it enters the parish at the mouth of the Calder to
the point where it leaves it, its course is due east and west. It is
from 200 to 250 feet broad, and, when it fills its channel, sweeps
along with great majesty. The tide generally flows to within a mile
of this parish, and some great spring-tides have been observed to
come up to the confines of it ; but this is a rare circumstance. The
greatest floods seldom rise higher than 17 feet above the bed of the
river. On 24th September 1712, the Clyde rose 18 feet 6 inches ;
and on 12th March 1782, it attained the enormous height of 20 feet.
There is only one haugh, consisting of 1 8 acres of very rich land,
liable to be overflowed. The Calder forms the boundary between
Blantyre and Cambuslang for three and a-half miles. It runs due
north, and after passing a variety of handsome seats in Kilbride,
Blantyre, &c., such as Torrance, Calderwood, Crossbasket, and
Calderbank, falls into the Clyde at a place called Turnwheel, near
Redlies. The banks are in general steep and richly wooded. The
channel is gravel or freestone rock, and is from 30 to 40 feet broad,
but is seldom wholly covered by the stream, which is rapid and
shallow. The Kirk-burn rises near Easter Hill, on the borders of
Carmunnock, and, after a course of about two and a-half miles due
north, joins the Clyde near Moriston. For about a mile and a-
half before its embouchure, it makes several turnings, and is con-
fined by bold and perpendicular rocks of freestone from 50 to 100
feet high. The bold sweep which its banks make near the church
is probably the cam, from which the parish derives its name. New-
ton burn rises near Turnlaw, and, after pursuing a northerly course
420
LANARKSHIRE.
for about two and a-half miles, falls into the Clyde near Clyde's
Mill. Cocks-burn rises near East Rogerton in Kilbride, runs in
an easterly direction upwards of three and a-half miles, and falls
into the Calder near Greenhall in Blantyre. These are all small
streams, running on gravelly or rocky beds, in deep gullets or great
ravines; occasionally pouring down heavy torrents, in the winter sea-
son, into the channels of the Clyde or Calder, while in the summer
season many of them are nearly dry. The village of Kirkhill,
Cambuslang, is not well supplied with water. In the summer sea-
son, in particular, the inhabitants are obliged to go a considerable
distance to the Burn-well, a small open spring at the bottom of
the " Preaching or Conversion Brae." There are two small lochs
or lakes to the east of Dechmont, which appear to be artificial.
Geology and Mineralogy. — This parish forms part of the great
coal basin of the Clyde. The coal is wrought chiefly to the west and
north-west towards Rutherglen, Springhall, and Coats. The field
in which it is found lies on the south side of the Clyde, and may
be about 3 miles square. It has a general slope from the Cathkin
hills towards the river, with considerable swellings here and there,
and in several places is cut and broken by rivulets. At this field,
at Stonelaw in Rutherglen, and generally throughout the district,
there have been found at intervals, within 415 feet of the surface,
seven seams of coal, five of which are workable. The thickness
of the seams, and their distance from the surface are nearly as
follows :
1. seam, soft coal,
2. do. do.
3. do. do.
4. do. do.
5. do. do.
6. do. hard do. good for
ironworks, forges, &c. 3
7. do. soft coal,
Till, &c. with thin seams
of coal, 0
Thickness.
Relative depth.
Total depth.
Names of
Feet. Inch.
Feet. Inch.
Feet, Inch.
workable seams.
4 6
55 0
55 0
Mossdale.
3 6
31 0
86 0
Rough ell.
5 0
67 0
153 0
Do. main.
6 0
70 2
223 2
Humph.
3 0
89 0
312 0
Splint ell.
for
ic. 3 6
8 0
320 0
Do. main.
1 6
1 6
321 6
Total,
27 0
84 0
415 8
415 0
415 8
Before reaching the first coal, there is in most places a surface
of earth and clay, from a few feet to 20 or 30 feet thick; beneath
which, there are 20 feet of an argillaceous white freestone, succeed-
ed by 30 or 40 feet of shale, with vegetable impressions, inter-
mixed with thin strata of freestone separated from each other by
a little clay or mica. There are about 6 inches of Dogger or coarse
4
CAMBUSLANG. 421
ironstone above the coal, — and beneath, a little fire clay, and about
6 feet of shale mixed with shivery thin laminae of freestone. Be-
neath this, are 24 feet of extremely hard freestone rock, and then
the 3 feet 6 inch coal. 62 feet of till or shale separate this thin seam
from the 5 feet coal, which lies on a bed of shale 20 feet thick.
Beneath this, at the depth of upwards of 189 feet, we have a bed
of hard compact limestone, usually called the Cambuslang marble,
from 6 to 18 inches thick, and beautifully variegated with bivalve
shells. This marble lies on 8 feet of shale, succeeded by about
3 feet of very hard white freestone, and 32 feet of shale or slate-
clay, mixed with ironstone. This brings us to the 6 feet coal,
which lies upon a stratum of shale, with freestone 47 feet thick.
The 3 feet coal is covered with about 8 inches of coarse ironstone,
and lies upon 10 feet of shale, with vegetable impressions. After
passing through 6 feet of freestone, we come to 14 feet of shale with
.vegetable impressions, and, at the depth of about 320 feet, there
are two seams of ironstone 10 inches thick. These rest imme-
diately upon the 3 feet 6 inch coal, which is separated by 18 inches
of shale from the 1 foot 6 inch coal. Beneath this, to the depth
of upwards of 80 feet, thin seams of coal are penetrated by boring,
mixed with shale, freestone, and ironstone.
This arrangement is by no means invariably the same, but is
only given to furnish a general idea of the order of succession in
which the metals lie. The thickness of the coals and of the free-
stone varies considerably, and the strata are frequently deranged
by troubles, or dikes, of which there are several which run in a
direction from east to west, and at pretty regular distances from
each other. In their general lie, the seams are usually nearly pa-
rallel to each other, although they always subtend a considerable
angle with regard to the surface of the earth, and uniformly have
their dip or declinature towards the Clyde. At the river, they lie
many feet deep, but rise gradually till they crop out, or reach the
surface, within less than a mile and a half from it. In approach-
ing the Clyde, the dip -is so much the less, and at a distance from
it, it is one in four or five. The pits in Cambuslang are all the
property of the Duke of Hamilton, but are rented by James Farie,
Esq. of Farme. Before 1787, they were kept clear of water by a
level, which conducted the accumulated water of the workings into
the Clyde. But as it was found impossible to work the coal be-
neath that level, a steam engine was erected in the above year,
and has ever since been used for the double purpose of drawing
LANARK. E 6
422 LANARKSHIRE.
up the coal, and keeping the pits dry. The coals near Glasgow
are in general much deeper than in the upper or eastern parts of
the county, where they have not been so long wrought. At Cam-
buslafig, the pits are about 39J fathoms deep, at Fullarton 65, at
Westmuir54, at Faskin 49, at Shettleston 42; whereas about Ha-
milton and Dalserf, they are seldom more than 30 fathoms deep, and
at Cleland sometimes only three or four. In sinking pits in this
neighbourhood, there is often found a bed of free mud or quicksand
many fathoms deep, which is kept from running away, and filling up
the pits, by vast cylinders of iron, about 8 feet in diameter, attached
together with iron bolts. Each of these cylinders may weigh from two
to three tons, and for every fathom of a pit perforating the quicksand
will cost from L. 35 to L. 40. The place where this is most
troublesome is a broad strip or belt of sand, which runs from Sandy
Hills near Tollcross, towards the green of Glasgow. The pits now
wrought at Wellshot, are evidently of long standing, and are said
to be the oldest in the neighbourhood of Glasgow. There are
upwards of 100 coal pits which have been wrought, and if we allow
three years only to each of these, they must have been begun
upwards of three centuries ago. In 1790 about 62 men, young
and old, were employed in these collieries; at present 100 are
employed. An ordinary collier can easily dig 40 cwt., for which
he then received 2s. 2d. a day, and if he wrought hard 13s. a week.
At present, a collier can make 3s. 6d. or 4s. a day, or at the rate
of from L. 1, to L. 1, 4s. a week. The wages of colliers and other
incidental expenses were then estimated at L. 2000 per annum ;
they may now be estimated at L. 2500.* In 1790, about 600 carts,
or 360 tons were put out per week, and 18,000 tons per annum. At
present, the output is nearly 550 per week, or 30,000 per annum. In
1750, a cart of coals of nine cwt. cost 9d. on the coal hill ; in 1790,
they cost 2s. ; and at present 2s. lid. A cart of coals from Well-
shot, weighing 20 cwt. is now laid down at the village of Kirkhill
for 7s. 4d. The driving is Is. 6d., tolls 3d., and cost at the hill 5s. 7d.
Ironstone abounds in various places in the parish, but is only
wrought on a small scale. Lime is not found here, but is brought
chiefly from lime-kilns in the parish of Kilbride, where it costs from
12s. to 16s. per chalder. The stratum of marble already noticed,
from 6 to 18 inches thick, is known to extend over a great portion of
the parish, and to run into Rutherglen, in the direction of Stonelaw.
• The Duke of Hamilton's rental is L. 400, or a seventh of the output. The pro-
fit on the sales is not included.
CAMBUSLANG. 423
Like the other strata of the district, it dips towards Clyde : and
wherever coal pits have been sunk, it has been found at the depth
of from 180 to 200 feet. At such a depth, it cannot easily be
come at; but there is a place on the Kirk-burn, to the south-west
of the church, where it has been wrought at several times. It is
of a dark gray, or more rarely of a reddish-colour, and is beauti-
fully ornamented with white bivalve shells. Both varieties take
a good polish, and are occasionally used for ornamental purposes.
Of this marble there is a handsome mantel piece at Chatelherault
near Hamilton, and in the College library at Glasgow; and at Dud-
dingstone, near Queensferry, it has been still more amply made
usa of. There is abundance of freestone on the Kirk-burn, near the
manse. It is of a whitish colour, hard and close-grained, and con-
sequently capable of being made very smooth and beautiful. It
is held in high estimation, and is often carried to a great distance.
At Brenshaw, a little to the east, a red sandstone of a different tex-
ture, and of a much coarser grain, is much used in building. This
seems to be the outcrop of a new or upper red sandstone, which
covers so large a portion of the middle ward of Lanarkshire, and
evidently lies on the top of the usual coal measures. Below this
sandstone, there are two seams of coal, each about 10 inches thick,
and from 6 to 10 feet separated, lying in a thick bed of fire clay.
"Connected with it, is the 20 feet bed of white argillaceous sand-
stone, which is the uppermost of our coal measures. It is gene-
rally intersected horizontally with layers of slate clay. Dechmont
(the rampart of protection or of peace,) and Turnlaw are entire-
ly composed of whin, and furnish abundance of excellent mate-
rials for making roads. On the east side of Dechmont, is a quarry
of excellent blue metal, from which upwards of 2000 cubic yards
are cut annually. It is of a hard grain, and of a rough prickly
texture, and is interspersed with veins of quartz. Some of these
are of various colours, such as red, blue, violet, and are often got
in large pieces. The whin here, as at Shotts and New Monkland,
evidently overlaps the freestone. It seems to cover not more than
from 300 to 400 acres. The soil upon and around the hill is
light and stony ; that of the rest of the parish is mostly clay, on
a tilly subsoil. Along the banks of the Clyde it is partly a light
loam, and partly a light sand. The general succession of strata
throughout the whole of this district is argillaceous freestone,
schistus, including slate-clay, and bituminous shale, ironstone,
424 LANARKSHIRE.
and coal, among which there is no small disorder, in arrangement,
position, and qualities.
. Zoology. — Of the hawk tribe the following are occasionally observ-
ed. Falco peregrinus, peregrine falcon ; Falco Tinnunculus, kestril ;
Falco JEsalori) merlin; Gyrfalco candicans, seen at Dechmont, 10th
May 1835. Circus cyaneus ; Buteo vulgaris, buzzard; Buteo Nisus,
sparrow-hawk. The long horn -owl, the short horn-owl, the barn-owl,
and the ivy-owl, also occur. Motacilla boarula, or grey wagtail is fre-
quently seen in the summer season, and builds on the shelves of
rocks near the water-courses. A bittern (Ardea stellaris) was late-
ly shot in this neighbourhood, and is now in the possession of Mr
Grimson, Hamilton. No species of woodpecker was ever observed
in this district till within these few months, when two specimens of
the great spotted woodpecker, Picus major, were shot, and both
preserved by the individual above alluded to. The squirrel, which
was formerly a stranger in these parts, has of late become common
throughout all the wooded districts of Clydesdale. These altera-
tions in the habitats of animals may probably be owing to increase
of plantations, and the superior cultivation of the soil.
Among the Mollusca, the following may be given as a specimen :
Arion ater, Pupa pygmsea,
Limax cinereus and agrestis, Carychium minimum,
Helix ericetorum, Balea perversa,
H. rufescens, Clausilia perversa,
H. nemoralis, Limnea palustris,
H. nitida, L. fossaria,
H. rotundata, L. limosa,
H. costata, Physa fontinalis,
H. arbustorum, Planorbis albus,
Bulimus obscurus, P. nitidus,
Vitrina pellucida, P. complanatus.
Pupa muscorum, Valvata .piscinalis.
The Hydra viridis or green polype is very common in many of
the streams and stagnant ditches in this neighbourhood. The best
way of procuring them is to pull some aquatic plants growing be-
neath the surface of the stream or ditch where they are produced,
and to place them in a basin of pure water, when this curious zoo-
phyte will soon become apparent. It is of the size of a pin's head,
and has the faculty of withdrawing itself from the vegetable surface
to which it is attached by its tentacula or roots, and either moving
or swimming about among the plants and in the water. They catch
their prey with their arms, which they expand or contract at pleasure,
and are invested with the power of voluntary motion.
Botany. — The Char a vulgaris is common in the Clyde at
Bogle's-hole ford, and at Kenmuir. The Char a flexilis or smooth
CAMBUSLANG. 425
cbara is also found in the same places. The Calitriche aquatica,
variety $, occurs near Carmyle. The Circcea Lutetiana abounds in
the woods. The Veronica scutellata is found in bogs at Kenmuir,
immediately on the confines of the parish. The following may also
be mentioned as interesting to botanists : Aira aquatica, near Gil-
bertfield Castle; Aira caryophyllea, Dechmont; Sherardia arvensis,
plentiful; Galium Mollugo, on the Clyde; Alchemilla minor > variety
ft Dechmont ; Campanula latifolia ; Scutellaria minor ; Althcea
moschata ; Carex hirta ; Taxus baccata, at Flemington. The
Equisetum sylvaticum grows on the road side between Hamilton
and Cambuslang, and the E. hyemale at Carmyle ford.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
The history of this barony and parish can be traced as far back
as the time of Alexander II. During his reign it belonged to Wal-
ter Olifard, the justiciary of Lothian, and it afterwards passed into
the hands of the Morays of Bothwell. In 1370 the Castle of Both-
well, and also the barony of Drumsharg or Drumsargart, came into
the possession of Archibald the Grim, Earl of Douglas, by his mar-
riage with Johanna, daughter of Sir Thomas Moray of Bothwell.
The Douglases continued in possession of the property till 8th
November 1452, when it was disponed by James Earl of Douglas
to James Lord Hamilton. In 1455, on the forfeiture of the Dou-
glases, Lord Hamilton acquired the superiority of the barony also,
by obtaining a charter from James II. as tenant in capite ; and it
has remained with his descendants ever since. In the seventeenth
century the name of the barony (which includes nearly two-thirds
of the parish) was changed from Drumsargart to Cambuslang.
The " Cambuslang Work" — The parish of Cambuslang has
long been celebrated for the religious impressions which were
produced under the ministry of the Rev. Mr M'Culloch in
1742. Party spirit and selfish motives have each exhausted
their ingenuity in giving a gloss to these transactions, and in bend-
ing them so as to suit their own peculiar views and purposes.
Keeping clear of the heterodox fury of secession incredulity on
the one hand, and of the too ready credence of zealous and inte-
rested though well-meaning partizans on the other, our object
shall be merely to give a statistical view of facts, and to leave the
reader to draw his own conclusions. The religious phenomena,
commonly called the " Cambuslang work," seems to have originated
in circumstances apparently accidental. The kirk of Cambuslang
being too small and out of repair (as is too often the case in the pre-
426 LANARKSHIRE.
sent day,) the minister in favourable weather frequently conduct-
ed the public devotional services of the parish in the open fields.
The place chosen was peculiarly well adapted for the purpose. It
is a green brae on the east side of a deep ravine near the church,
scooped out by nature in the form of an amphitheatre. At present
it is sprinkled over with broom, furze, and sloe-bushes, and two
aged thorns in twin embrace are seen growing side by side near the
borders of the meandering rivulet which murmurs below. In this
retired and romantic spot Mr M'Culloch,* for about a year before
the " work" began, preached to crowded congregations, and on the
Sabbath evenings after sermon, detailed to the listening multitudes,
the astonishing effects produced by the ministrations of Mr White-
field in England and America, and urged with great energy the doc-
trines of regeneration and newness of life. The effects of his zeal
soon began to evidence themselves in a striking manner among the
multitudes who waited on his ministry. Towards the end of January
1742, two persons, Ingram More, a shoemaker, and Robert Bow-
man, a weaver, went through the parish, and got about ninety
heads of families to subscribe a petition, which was presented to the
minister, desiring that he would give them a weekly lecture. This
request was immediately complied with, and Thursday was fixed
upon as the most convenient day of the week for that purpose.
These meetings were crowded with multitudes of hearers, and at
length from weekly were extended to daily exhortations, which were
carried on without interruption for seven or eight months. Many
people came to the minister's house under strong convictions of sin,
calling themselves " enemies to God, despisers of precious Christ,"
and saying " what shall we do to be saved ?" The first prominent
symptoms of the extraordinary effects produced by these multiplied
services were on the 8th February. Soon after, the sacrament was
given twice in the space of five weeks; on llth July and on 15th
August. Mr Whitefield had arrived from England In June, and
many of the most popular preachers of the day hastened to join him
at Cambuslang, such as Messrs Willison of Dundee, Webster of
* Mr M'Culloch, much and justly as he was esteemed by his own parishioners, was
never a popular preacher in the district in which he resided. So much was this
the case, that up to the time of the Revival at Cambuslang, when assisting at neigh-
bouring communions, he was usually called " the Ale Minister," the meaning of which
was, that his appearance in the tent was considered by the great majority as the sig-
nal for their retiring for a refreshment. He is said to have been most diligent and
faithful in catechising his parishioners of all ages, and evinced and often expres-
sed great uneasiness, when any of them betrayed ignorance of the doctrines of the
gospel. All bore witness, that while he was severe in manners and of a warm temper,
he was a man of a noble generous nature.
CAMBUSLANG, 427
Edinburgh, M* Knight of Irvine, M'Laurin of Glasgow, Currie
of Kinglassie, Bonner of Torphichen, Robe of Kilsyth, &c. The
sacrament on the 15th August was very numerously attended.
One tent was placed at the lower extremity of the amphitheatre
above alluded to, near the joining of the two rivulets ; and here
the sacrament was administered. A second tent was erected
in the churchyard, and a third in a green field a little to the
west of the first tent. Each of these were attended with great
congregations, and it has been estimated that not less than
30,000 people attended on that occasion. Four ministers preach-
ed on the fast day, 4 on Saturday, 14 or 15 on Sunday, and 5 on
Monday. There were 25 tables, about 120 at each, in all 3000
communicants. Many of these came from Glasgow, about 200
from Edinburgh, as many from Kilmarnock, and from Irvine and
Stewarton, and also some from England and Ireland. The Cam -
buslang work continued for six months, from 8th February to
15th August 1742. The number of persons converted at this
period cannot be ascertained. Mr M'Culloch, in a letter to Mr
Robe, dated 30th April 1751, rates them at 400, of which num-
ber 70 were inhabitants of Cambuslang. The 18th of-February,
the day on which this extraordinary work began, was, long after,
observed in the parish partly as a day of humiliation and fasting for
misimprovement of mercies, and partly as a day of thanksgiving for
the season of grace to many in the British colonies, and particular-
ly in this small corner in 1741 and 1742.* The secession clergy,
who had lately broken off from the church, viewed these transac-
tions in a very unfavourable light, and evidently with a malignant
" When the present venerable and learned incumbent of Cambuslang entered on
the charge of the parish, a number of the converts of 1742 still lived, and gave evi-
dence, by the piety and consistency of their conduct, of the reality of the saving change
that had been wrought on their hearts. So late as July 1818, the writer of this note
heard an aged clergyman of a neighbouring parish allude in the church of Cambus-
lang, on a Monday after a communion, to the revival in the following terms : He
had been speaking of the time and place in which God had been pleased to afford
extraordinary manifestations of His power and grace in the conversion of sinners, and
in comforting and strenthening his people, and he added, " Such was Bethel to the
Patriarch Jacob, Tabor to the three disciples, and such was this place about seventy-six
years ago, of whom I am told some witnesses remain to this present hour, but the
greater part are fallen asleep." If any one is still so bold as to allege that the work
at Cambuslang was " a work of the Devil," he will find no countenance from the serious
part of the inhabitants of the district in which it took place. No one ever attempt-
ed to justify every thing that was said or done at that memorable period ; but, on the
other hand, it is hoped that the warmth of party spirit will no longer prevent good
men from admitting what even the correspondent of Mr Wishart of Edinburgh was
constrained to acknowledge in regard to the revival in New England at that time,
" tint an appearance so much out of the ordinary way, and so unaccountable to per-
sons not acquainted with the history of the world, was the means of awakening thu
attention of many, and that a good number settled into a truly Christian temper."
428 LANARKSHIRE.
eye. Observing something superhuman in. the effects which were
here produced, they did not attribute them to the right source, the
spirit of God, but to the Devil. These sentiments they openly
avowed by industriously preaching and writing against the Cambus-
lang work ; and especially by an act dated Dumfermline, 1 5th July
1742, appointing the 4th of August following to be observed in all
their congregations, as a day of fasting and humiliation ; one of the
principal grounds of which was " the delusions of Satan, attending
the present awful work upon the bodies of men, going on at Cam-
buslang." Many scores of pamphlets were written on this subject,
all of which have long ago fallen into oblivion.*
Eminent Men. — Lieutenant William Hamilton, the author of a
metrical version of the life of Sir William Wallace, lived many
years, first at Gilbertfield and then at Leterick, in this parish,
* For the sake of those who may be anxious to study more minutely this deeply
interesting portion of Scottish church history, I subjoin a list of tracts and books
relating to the work at Kilsyth and Cambuslang, in 1742. 1. Robe's Narrative of
the extraordinary work at Kilsyth and Cambuslang, (written in parts) 1742; 2. A
short Account of the wonderful conversions at Kilsyth, 1742 ; 3. A short Narrative
of the extraordinary work at Cambuslang, 1742; 4. A true Account of the wonderful
conversions at Cambuslang, 1742 ; 5. A warning against the ministration of George
Whitefield, 1742; 6. Mr Adam Gib catechised, in a letter, &c. 1742; 7. A Con-
ference between an elder of the kirk of Shotts and a parishioner of Cambuslang, 1 742 ;
8. Fisher's review of Robe's preface, 1 742 ; 9. Webster's Divine influence, &c.
1742; 10. Satan's ape detected, &c. 174'2; 11. Satan's advocate driven from the
bench, 1742 ; 12. A warm and serious Address, 1742 ; 13. A warning and reproof by
the same author, 1742; 14 A friendly caution to the Seceders, 1742 ; 15. The Declara-
tion of the true Presbyterians, (by Wilson,) 1742 ; 16. A Letter to Mr Wisharton the
state of religion, &c. 1742; 17. The state of religion in New England, R. Foulis,
1742; 18. Caldwell's trials of the spirit, &c. ditto, 1742; 19. The wonderful narrative of
the French prophets, 1742 ; 20. Edwards's Distinguishing marks prefaced by Wil-
lison, 1742; .21. The Glasgow weekly history by M'Culloch, 1742; 22. Edwards's
narrative, &c. London, 1738; 23. Robe's first letter, 1742; 24. Do. second letter,
1743 ; 25. Do. third letter, 1743 ; 26. Do. fourth letter, 1743 ; 27. Erskine's fraud and
falsehood, &c. 1743 ; 28. Truth and innocency vindicated, in a letter to Robe, 1743 ;
29. Willison's letter to Fisher, 1743; 30. Kennedy on conversion, — preface to the
Dutch edition of Robe's narrative, 1743 ; 31. Currie's new test and vindication, &c.
1743; 32. Fisher's review, second edition with a preface, &c. 1743; 33. Currie's plain
history of the seceding brethren, 1744 ; 34. Faith no fancy, against Robe's fourth
letter by Ralph Erskine, 1745; 35. Robe's monthly history, 1743-4; 36. Ditto,
new series, 1745; 37. Burt's narrative of the revival, &c. 1768; 38. The signs of
the times by Dr John Erskine, 1742 ; 39. A letter from Webster to Ralph Erskine,
1743 ; 40. An account of some remarkable events at Cambuslang, 1742 ; 41. A warn-
ing against the spreading contagion broken out, from A. Gib, 1742; 42. Act of the As-
sociate Synod anent a fast, 1742 ; 43. Brown's history of the secession, sixth edition,
1791 ; 44. Robe's narrative, &c. with additions, 1791 ; 45. Prince's weekly history
published at Boston, 1 743 ; 46. Mather's letters on state of religion in New England,
1743; 47. Visible signs of the Lord's return to Scotland, 1742; .48. Observations in
defence of the work at Cambuslang, 1742; 49. Remarks on the fast, 1742; 50. Re-
statistical account of Cambuslang, 1793 ; 56. MoncrieiT's life of Erskine, 1818 ; 57-
A short narrative of the extraordinary work at Cambuslang, 1742 ; 58. An apology
for the Presbyterianst>f Scotland, who are hearers of the Rev. George Whitefield,
1742.
CAMBUSLANG. 429
where he died 24th May 1751, at an advanced age. He is well
known as the friend and poetical correspondent of Allan Ramsay.
Dr Claudius Buchannan, celebrated for his Asiatic researches,
was also a native of this parish. His father was schoolmaster of
Cambuslang, and was appointed session-clerk 1761. During his
time, the school fees were raised from a merk Scots per quarter, to
Is. 6d. for reading, and 2s. for writing and arithmetic,
The Rev. Robert Fleming, the author of " Scripture Truth con-
firmed and cleared," was for many years minister of Cambus-
lang. He was the son of Mr James Fleming, long minister at Ba-
thans or Yester, and after undergoing many trials and persecu-
tions, and residing for some time at Rotterdam, was finally called to
fill the charge at Cambuslang, where he died July 25th 1694.
His works are now chiefly remarkable for having foretold, with great
accuracy, the revolutions which occurred in Europe and America
towards the close of the last century. George Jardine, Esq. the late
excellent and laborious Professor of Logic in the University of Glas-
gow, had his summer residence at Hallside, in this parish, where
he was universally beloved and admired.
Land-owners. — The chief land-owners are, the Duke of Hamil-
ton, Mr Graham of Westburn, Sir James Montgomery of Stan-
hope, Mr Jackson of Spittalhill, Mr Jardine of Hallside, Mr Bain
of Morriston, and Mr M'Ewen, Calder Grove.
Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers, at present, con-
sist of twenty volumes ; some of these are small, and twelve of them
are in a dilapidated condition. Some older ones were destroyed
by a fire about 1724, and a few have got into private hands, but
may yet be recovered. The oldest date in the registers of pro-
clamations and baptisms is June 14th 1657. From this date they
have been regularly kept.
Antiquities. — About a mile east from the church, there is a
small ridge, terminated, on the west, by a circular mound level on
the top, about 20 feet in height, and 140 feet in diameter. It
is evidently a work of art, and resembles those artificial mounds
on which the ancient Britons and Saxons built their fortresses. It
was here that the Castle of Drumsargard formerly stood. Drum-
sargard. or Drum-searg-aird in Gaelic, signifies the dry ridge or
height; a name descriptive either of the particular spot where the
castle stood, or of a long ridge, at a little distance from it. . The
situation was doubtless well chosen for a place of security in dis-
orderly times ; and though only about sixty or seventy feet higher
than the adjacent ground, the prospect from it must always have
430 LANARKSHIRE.
been extensive and commanding, but it is now highly rich and beauti-
ful. About sixty years ago, there were some remains of this ancient
castle ; but now no vestige of it is to be seen. The stones of it
were employed in building the farm houses called Hallside, from
its standing in the neighbourhood of the great hall. The te-
nant in possession of it, at the time that the last Statistical Re-
port was written, dug from its ruins many carts of stones, some of
which were hewn, and had iron crooks in them, upon which doors
had been hung. Amongst the rubbish, human bones have been
found, once a pewter plate, and on many occasions ancient coins,
of which the dates or reigns of the sovereigns to whom they be-
longed have not been ascertained. On the summit of Dechmont-
hill, there are still some faint traces of the foundations of ancient
buildings, and in one place the Urtica urens or common nettle
grows in abundance, which is seldom or never found except in the
vicinity of human habitations. The ruins of these buildings were
considerable about fifty years ago; but since that time, the stones
and rubbish have been removed for making dikes and repairing
roads. A former possessor, when digging on the summit of the
hill, discovered the foundation of a circular building, about
24 feet in diameter. The stones had been carefully joined to-
gether, but no signs of mortar could be observed. They were
freestones; and must have been carried with much labour from a
distance, as the stones, which are found in great abundance upon
the hill, are all whin.
Dechmont stands in the centre of the Rutherglen and Cathkin
tumuli, and was the place where our forefathers lighted their bel-
tane fires. A thick stratum of charcoal has been discovered, which
had lain concealed from time immemorial under a stratum of fine
loam, near the summit of the hill. When the country people saw
it, they expressed no surprise, because the tradition was familiar to
them, that it was here where the former inhabitants of the country
had been in the habit of lighting their beltane. The Lady Chapel
of Kirkburn, formerly stood on the ravine a little below the church.
It was founded and endowed in 1379, by William Monypenny,
rector of Cambuslang. Lands were purchased for this purpose
from William Dalyell, out of the estate of east Farme of Ruther-
glen, at an annual rent of six merks Sterling. The whole was ra-
tified by a charter of Robert II., dated 8th December 1379. This
chapel was held by Sir John Millar at the time of the Reformation,
who reported its value at seven merks yearly. The land still bears
the name of Chapel ; but no traces of the ancient buildings remain.
CAMBUSLANG. 431
There was also an hospital two miles east from the church, to
which about 130 acres of land called Spittal and Spittalhill,
seem to have been annexed ; but all traces of it are now lost ex-
cept the name. Gilbertfield is a turreted building, erected in
1607. It is now the property of John Graham, Esq.
An elegant and commodious new house has been lately erected by
Sir James Montgomery at Newton ; and a handsome mansion has
also been built by Mr M'Ewen, from Glasgow, at Calder Grove,
near Prior Bridge. The other mansion-houses in the parish are
pleasant and commodious, but exhibit nothing remarkable.
III. — POPULATION.
The state of the population for the last eighty years is as follows :
Years.
Persons.
Males.
Females. Houses. Families.
Average
o/Famlies.
Increase,
#c.
1755,
934
1775,
1096
547
549
238
4| nearly
increase 62
1785,
1088
529
559
236
4f do.
decrease 8
1791,
1288
657
631
280
4| exactly
increase 100
1796,
1558
787
171
do. 270
1801,
1616
do. 58
1807,
1870
do. 254
1811,
2035
do. 165
1815,
2045
do. 10
1821,
2301
J122
1179 364
do. 356
18^1,
2697
1331
1367 369
525
5*V
do. 396
1835,
2705
do. 108
1787
The average increase for the last eighty years is rather more
than 34 per annum.
The following table was drawn up for private use, by Mr Hall,
present parochial teacher.
•3 "~- 8 4S is H Q *J
DMtict*. ^ £ If* 5
Rural districts, 114 104 4 58 27 29 356 375 731
Dalton, - 10 6 0 0 5 5 22 26 48
Lightburn, 22 14 0 0 17 5 58 61 119
Deans, - - 8 6 0 0 4 4 28 21 49
Howieshill, - 13 10 1 1 10 2 34 28 62
Vicarland, 25 15 0 1 21 3 61 59 120
Kirkhill, - 43 27 0 2 32 9 106 118 224
Sauchiebog, &c. 32 22 0 0 22 10 67 58 125
Chapel ton, &c. 69 41 0 1 52 16 142 167 309
Bushy hill, - 72 40 1 1 33 38 193 185 378
Cullot-hburn, - 29 14 0 1 17 11 78 68 146
Silverbank, 30 21 4 0 2 28 75 69 144
East Coats, 26 20 2 0 3 23 48 60 108
Wist Coats, - 32 29 0 0 4 28 62 72 134
Total, 525 369 12 65 249 2TT 1330 1367 2697
432 LANARKSHIRE.
In 179], when the total population was 1288, more than one-
half, viz. 677, resided in villages, and 611 in the country. At
present, 1966 live in villages, and 731 in the country. There are
employed in coal pits, 100; in the quarries, 8. The increase of
396 between 1821 and 1831, is chiefly owing to the proximity of
the parish to Glasgow, and to the large proportion of persons em-
ployed in manufactures and coal-pits, most of whom marry early,
and generally rear large families. There are about 500 weavers,
including females. There are 65 names on the roll of electors,
44 of whom voted at last election for Mr Maxwell, the Whig can-
didate ; 5 for Mr Lockhart, the Tory candidate ; and 5 did not
come to the poll.
A register of births and proclamations, and also a register of
burials has been kept with great accuracy. The following is the
gross amount of each, with the average number for the last seven
years :
1829,
1830,
1831,
1832,
1833,
1834,
1835,
There thus appears to be one baptism per annum to 39 persons
nearly, one burial to 51, and one marriage to 99. The propor-
tion of marriages here is very great; in England it is 120, and in
Wales 136. There are 253 children for 100 marriages, which
makes about 2J children for each marriage. Hence every 20 have
about 50 children. Perhaps four-tenths do not marry, which will
make a proportional increase in the number of children born of
each marriage. In 1791, when last report was drawn up, the po-
pulation was 1288; in 1836 it is 2705, which is 129 more than
doubled. The births between 1720 and 1728 inclusive were 123,
which, if taken at the same ratio as at present, would give a popu-
lation of only 693. The following tables contain a classified ar-
rangement of the inhabitants in 1791 and 1836, from authentic
sources :
1791. 1836.
Aged below 10, - 337 615
Between 10 and 20, - 240 464
Proclamations
Births.
Deaths.
_
29
66
43
_
30
57
34
_
23
71
61
_
26
68
81
_
27
67
51
_
24
79
49
-
30
70
47
Total,
"IS
478
366
Average,
27
68£
5'4
CAMBUSLANG. 433
Do. 20 and 50, - 517 1247
Do. 50 and 70, - v 154 289
Above 70, - 40 90
Total, 1288 2705
The number of families of independent fortune residing occa-
sionally or permanently in the parish is about 5. There are about
7 fatuous persons and 2 blind.
1
Places.
1 . *T *T *5li'««*jfiS»£5tj *fe» i
8-S | j is N lit 8f l*-i4||:| 2
I* I* H II If II fJJl !s | 1|
% Is la 3$St4l £1 3l^v s1 I!
Rural districts,
187
40
2
73
22
Dalton,
10
0
0
0
1
Lightburn,
27
0
0
0
20
Deans,
10
0
0
0
6
Howieshill,
14
1
0
]
9
Vicarland,
26
0
1
0
20
Kirkbill,
46
0
0
3
31
Sauchiebog,
35
0
0
0
27
Chapelton,
73
0
1
0
59
Bushyhill,
82
0
0
1
24
Cullochburn,
- 32
0
0
2
13
Silverbank,
33
0
0
0
1
E. Coats,
29
0
0
0
3
W. Coats,
34
0
0
0
7
Total,
638
41
4
80
243
8 7 22 7 6 84
5 0 40 0 1
007001
003100
1 10100
111301
324303
211402
804105
22 0 31 3 1 0
4 0 10 3 0 1
0 1 29 2 0 I
0 0 22 4 0 1
2 0 22 3 02
55 13 160 35 7 101
Of the 80 labourers in agriculture, 27 are sons of occupiers of
the first class. The four occupiers are such as employ neither sons
nor male servants. The cotton-mill at Flemington, mentioned in
last Statistical Report, has been long given up, and is now used as
a barn.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — The property of the parish is distributed among
13 heritors, and is laid out nearly in the following allotments :
Acres^ Valued rent, Real rent,
Estates. about Scots monty. about
Cambuslang estate, - 3507 L.2087 1» 0 L.4000 0 0
Westburn, - 800 523 50 1600 0 6
Newton, 361 263 0 0 700 0 0
Spittal, 203 133 68 500 0 0
Moriston, 50 68 0 0 246 0 0
Rosebank, . 50 43 0 0 240 0 0
Daviesholm, 50 38 8 8 246 0 0
Hallside, 50 23 13 3 240 0 0
Crookedshields, 25 19 0 0 80 0 0
Calder Grove, "20 10 14 6 40 0 0
Chapel, 5 10 10 0 12 0 0
Letterick, 4 900 800
D°- - 600 7 0 X)
The above is an estimate which will not bear a critical investi-
434
LANARKSHIRE.
gation, but it will afford a pretty accurate idea of the average va-
lue and distribution of property in the parish. About 200 acres
are taken up with waste grounds, roads, braes, and plantings.
There is very little waste or uncultivated land. The average va-
lue of the land per acre is from L. 1, 5s. to L. 1, 10s. ; in 1791, it
was 15s. Some acres towards Dechmont and Carmunnock are not
worth so much ; but about Hallside and towards the Clyde, L. 3
and L. 4 are paid for the acre. There are about 41 farmers in the
parish at present; in 1791, the number was 50; of course the farms
must now be much larger. If we take the amount of arable land at
4125 acres, the average size of farms will be 108 acres. Nearly
the whole of the land is arable, and is well cultivated. All the
ordinary kinds of grain are produced in great abundance. The
number of acres of the different kinds of produce, with the average
value of each, at the time last report was drawn up and at the pre-
sent day, is subjoined :
Produce, fyc. in 1791.
Acres,
Produce
Price per
Scots.
per acre.
boll, 6
'(C.
Total
value.
Oats,
950
5 bolls.
L.O
15
0 L.
3562
10
0
Wheat,
180
8 do.
1
0
0
1440
0
0
Pease and beans,
190
4 do.
0
16
0
608
0
0
Barley,
160
5 do.
0
16
0
640
0
0
Potatoes,
70
20 do.
0
9
6
655
0
0
Hay,
400
132 stone
0
5
0 per stone
1100
0
0
Pasture,
1720
12s. 6d. per acre
1075
0
0
Fallow,
130
Total, 3800
L.9080 10 0
Total value.
L. 5600 0 0
3300 0 0
1400 0 0
105 0 0
945 0 0
2664 11 8
2650 0 0
Total, 4125 L.I 6664 11 8
The above is a very moderate average. The gross produce of
coal and minerals in the parish may be worth L. 3200 more. It
is observable that the produce has much increased during the last
forty-five years, which is chiefly owing to improved management.
Wheat is chiefly sown on the rich level fields bordering on the
Clyde. It is raised on all soils ; but the clayey, which is the most
common, is found to answer best, because the crop suffers least by
Produce, fyc. in
1836.
Statute
Produce per
Price per
acres.
acre.
loll, $c.
Oats,
1000
7 bolls L,
, 0 16 0
Wheat,
300
10 do.
1 2 0
Pease and
beans, 250
7 do.
0 16 0
Barley,
15
7 do.
1 0 0
Potatoes,
140
30 do.
096
Hay,
610
150 stone
070
Pasture,
- 1800
L. 1, 10s. per acre.
Fallow,
10
5 ploughings,
L.O 8 0
L.2 0 0
L. 0 8 0
45 carts dung,
026
5 12 6
050
4 chalders lime,
0 10 0
200
0 12 0
£ boll seed wheat,
1 0 0
0 10 0
1 2 0
2 years rent,
0 15 0
1 10 0
200
CAMBUSLANG. 435
the frosty nights and sunshine days in the spring. The practice of
summer fallowing for wheat is less common than it formerly was.
The expense of preparing and sowing an acre of land in summer
fallow for wheat, in 1791 and in 1836, supposing every article to
be paid for in money, is nearly as follows.
Cost 1791. Cost 1836.
L.2 0 0
11 5 0
280
0 11 0
400
Total L. 1 1 12 6 L. 20 4 0
Cambuslang is about five miles from Glasgow. The tolls for dung
are 4^d. The expense of ploughing and harrowing an acre for oats
is L. 1, Is. ; and two ploughings and harrowings for potatoes cost
L. 2. Wilkie's iron plough is now almost universally used. It cuts
a more acute-angled furrow than SmalPs plough ; and differs from
it chiefly in having the sock covered over by the mould board, and
thus is less subject to wear and tear, and is more easily repaired.
A two horse plough weighs about 1 cwt. 3 qrs. The cost from
L. 4 to L. 8, 8s. The ploughs were mostly of wood frame work
before 1810; after that period, they were all of iron — and in 1829,
cast-iron socks were introduced, and are a vast improvement. It
has been observed that agriculture never rises to perfection in a
merely agricultural country. It requires the stimulus and support
of manufactures and foreign trade. This remark is well illustrat-
ed in the agricultural districts which surround Glasgow. It is upon
it, that the neighbouring parishes chiefly depend. Glasgow is the
market where they sell every thing they can spare, and purchase
whatever they want. Nearly all the wheat, except what is pre-
served for seed, a third of the potatoes, and a great part of the
dairy produce, are sold in Glasgow.
Live-Stock. — The number of horses in the parish is about 200, all
of which, with a few exceptions, are employed in the cultivation of
land. There would thus appear to be one horse for 26 acres at an
average ; but if the 1800 acres of pasture land be excluded, there is
one for 11 or 12 acres. The horses are nearly all of the Clydes-
dale breed, and are generally purchased at the fairs at Rutherglen
and Glasgow. There are 600 cows in the parish, of which 300
are milk cows ; and about three acres appear to be the average
calculation for each cow ; but if we add to these 300 sheep and the
grass depastured by horses, it will diminish the amount of land al-
lowed to each cow to a considerable extent.
436
LANARKSHIRE.
Dairy produce. — The yearly average profit of milk cows in 1791
was L. 3, at present it is nearer L. 9, and taking the number of dairy
cows kept at 300, the average profit from this source alone will be
L. 2700. The farmers find it more advantageous to make their milk
into butter than into cheese; of which last they make no more than
is sufficient for the supply of their own families. Almost all the
butter and churned milk they can spare is sold in Glasgow. The
cows are nearly all of the improved Ayrshire breed. A good cow
will yield 4000 quarts of milk per annum ; but take the average
amount at 3000 quarts, and we will have from 300 cows 900,000
quarts. About 16 quarts produce one pound of butter, and of course
900,000 quarts will yield 56875 pounds, which at Is. per pound
will amount to L. 2843, 15s. The pint of butter milk, containing
two quarts, is sold at a penny, and of course 900,000 will yield
L. 1375. This, however, is only a gross calculation, and does not
pretend to be minutely accurate. The real gross amount is pro-
bably much higher. The keep of a cow may on an average be
L. 10, 10s. per annum, and the grassing of 300 cows will be L. 900.
The profit arising from the different modes of conducting the
dairy produce may be estimated as follows :
160 quarts 160 quarts, new- 1 60 quarts, butter
churned. milk cheese. <S{ skimmed cheese.
ICO quarts feeding,
veal.
10 lb. butter
at Is. - 10s.
160 quarts of
butter milk
at £d. - 6s. 8d.
24 lb. at 5d.
1 20 quarts
whey, worth
2d. per gal-
lon, -
10s. lOlb. butter
at Is.
1 stone cheese
at 5s. -
Is. 3d. 12 quarts but-
ter milk at^d.
100 quarts
weak whey at
Id. per gal.
10s.
5s.
Cd.
6fd.
A veal 20 days old
will have consumed
160 quarts at 8d.
per diem, price L.I
at 3d. per pint Scots.
Calf will sell at
L. 1, J6s. deduct
milk L.I.
Profit J6s.
Total, 16s. 8d. 11s. 3d. 16s. Of d. ICs.
In 1791, the parish was in the hands of about 50 farmers; at
present, there are only about 41. The rentals in 1791 and in 1836
stand as follows :
In 1791- In 1836.
1 farmer pays, L.600
2 pay above, 1 00
10 pay L. 50 and upwards, 50
19 pay L. 20 arid upwards, 20
18 pay less than 20
1 farm worth,
3 do.
8 do,
10 do.
9 do.
1 do.
1 do.
2 do.
1 do.
1 do.
1 do.
L. 400
300
200
150
100
60
3:.
20
12
10
9
Total L. 5666
CAMBUSLANG.
437
About L. 1300 per annum is paid, or is in the hands of proprie-
tors, small farmers, and feuars.
The leases are generally for nineteen years, and the farm-stead-
ings are in some instances very respectable. The following table
will exhibit the relative state of the country, in respect of prices,
&c. at three different periods— 1750, 1791, and 1836.
1750. 1791. 1836.
L. 1000
L. 2850
L. 7897
5,
650 acres
650 acres
k
100 head
150 head
2s 6d. to 3s.
5s. to 7s.
8s. to 8s. 6d.
3d. to 4d.
6d. to Is.
Is. to Is :;d.
Id. to 2d.
3d to 6d.
6d.
Id. to 2d.
5d. to lOd.
5d. to 8d.
1 Is. 8d.
16s. 8d.
1 8s. 8d.
8fd.
Is. 0£d.
Is. 2d.
L. 5 to L. 10
L. 15 to L. 25
L. 25 to L. 30
L. 2 to L. 4
L. 5 to L, 9
L. 6 to L. 10
3s to 6s.
9s. to 18s.
11s. to L.I
«d. to 9d.
Is to 2s.
lOd. to Is. 6d.
L. 3 to L.4
L. 8 to L. 10
L. 7 to L. 9
L. 1, 10s. toL.
2 L. 4 to L. 5
L. 3 to L. 6
6d. to 7d. Is. 2d. to Is. 4d. Is. 6d. to 2s.
8d. Is. 6d. 2s. to 2s. 6d.
6d. Is. Is. 6d. to 2s.
8d. to lOd. Is. 8d. to 2s. 2s. 6d.to 3s. 6d.
7d. to 9d- Is. 6d. to Is. 8d. 2s. 6d. to 3s.
4d. lOd. to Is. Is. 6d.
Rent of the parish,
Wheat, rye grass, hay and potatoes,
Fat cattle killed for common use,
Beef and mutton per stone,
Butter per Ib.
Cheese per Ib.
Eggs per dozen,
Oatmeal per boll,
Ditto per peck,
Draught horse,
A milk cow,
A sheep,
A hen,
Man-servants' wages,
Maid servants' wages,
Day labourers' wages per day,
A man in harvest per day,
A woman in harvest per day,
A mason per day.
A wright per day,
A tailor per day besides meat,
The lands towards the Clyde and near gentlemen's houses are
tastefully adorned with plantations. The Cairns planting presents
a number of very fine beeches ; and the ravines, through which the
Calder and the Kirk-burn run, are beautifully sprinkled over with
pood of different sorts.
Manufactures. — The weaving of muslin was introduced about
e year 1783. The work is chiefly derived from the manufac-
irers in Glasgow. In 1791, there were 120 weavers. They could
easily earn 10s. a week, and the total gross income from this
>ranch of industry, including the labour of journeymen and appren-
tices, was estimated at L. 2800 per annum. At present, a good
weaver with difficulty earns 10s. per week, and the general average
is probably not more than 8s. The number of weavers, includ-
ing females, who also work at the loom like men, is 500. They
will earn about L. 200 per week, or nearly L. 10,000 per annum,
which is at the rate of L. 20 per annum on an average to each
individual. No cotton work now exists in the parish.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Means of Communication, fyc. — The nearest market-town is
Rutherglen, which is about two miles distant. There are seven
LANARK. F f
438 LANARKSHIRE.
•
fairs in the year at Rutherglen. The best frequented and pro-
bably the most ancient is St Luke's. It begins on the third
Monday of October, old style, and continues the whole week.
Glasgow is about 4-J miles distant. Its market-day (Wednes-
day,) and its fairs and other markets are always well attended
by people from this parish. Hamilton is .about 6J miles south-
east. The market-day is Friday. There are thirteen villages,
(having distinct names,) inhabited by 1966 individuals, leav-
ing only 731 for the rural districts. Two turnpike roads run
through the parish. The Glasgow and Hamilton road within the
parish is 3J miles. The Glasgow and Muirkirk road by Fishes-
coat is 2J. The parish roads are about 12 miles. The rents paid
at the two following toll-bars, which are now the only ones where
toll is levied, was during the last and present year as follows :
Greenleesin 1835, L.425; in 1836, L.375. Cambuslangin 1835,
L. 575 ; in 1836, L. 525. Two coaches run daily between Glasgow
and Hamilton by the Cambuslang road ; and Kilbryde and Strath-
aven coaches pass and repass thrice a week on the Muirkirk road.
There is a penny-post in the village near the church. There are
7 bridges in the parish, all of one arch, and some of them very
small. The fences are in general well kept, and the Duke of
Hamilton has of late introduced great improvements over the
whole of his estates. There are two corn-mills, one on the Calder
in the south, and another on the Clyde in the north. Each of
these is capable of grinding 50 or 60 bolls a day. In winter and
spring, the mill on the Clyde is chiefly employed by the farmers
in the neighbourhood, and in summer and autumn by the dealers
in foreign grain, in and about Glasgow. In some seasons, 2000
bolls of foreign oats have been milled here, and in every season
above 1000. Here thirlage still continues.
Ecclesiastical State. — The church is a plain antiquated edifice,
built in 1743. It is now in a somewhat dilapidated state. The
south wall is considerably pushed out by the rafters, the couples
of the roof having bent beneath the baulk. It allows accommodation
for 500 sitters, allowing 18 inches to each. The area contains
329 sittings; the galleries, 113; the communion or table seats,
40. The rest are set aside for women who come to church with
children for baptism, including some cross seats at the head of
the communion tables. The manse was built in 1756. The
walls and roof were repaired last spring. The glebe contains
about 4^ acres, and would let for about L. 10. The stipend in
CAMBUSLANG. 439
•
1755 was L. 71, 16s. 8d ; in 1798, it was L. 145, 9s. lOd. At pre-
sent it consists of 121 bolls, 3 firlots, 3 pecks, 2^ lippies of meal ;
barley the same ; surrendered teind or money, L. 49, 8s. 1 Od.
To which must be added Duchess Anne Hamilton's bounty for
communion elements of 50 merks, or L. 2, 15s. 6d. Commu-
nion elements, L. 10. There is a small congregration belong-
ing to the missionaries or Congregational Union. The church
was built about 1802. It is situated in the village of Chapel-
ton Cambuslang, and is capable of containing 200 sitters. The
average number attending public worship is below 50. There
are about 20 communicants, all of the poor or working-classes.
The minister has about L. 30 per annum. The parish church
stands considerably to the north-west side of the parish. It is
about 1 mile and 4 furlongs from the border of Carmunnock on
the west, and the eastern corner is 3J miles distant. Eighteen
inhabited houses are farther than two miles from the church. The
relative number of churchmen and dissenters is as follows:
Establishment, - - 2016 Working- classes, establishment, 1928
Other denominations, - 562 Do. dissenters, - 511
Of no denomination, - 127
2439
2705 Poor of no denomination, - 127
More wealthy, establishment, - 88
Do. dissenters, - 51
2705
The number of communicants at the Established Church is 245,
of whom 186 are of the poor or working-classes. The ave-
rage attendance in June, July, and August is 400; in December,
January, and February 300. About 848 say they are in the ha-
bit of attendance, of whom 697 are of the poor or working-classes.
There are in the parish about 1008 persons twelve years of age
and upwards, belonging to the Establishment ; and 281 of the
same ages belonging to dissenters or persons of other persuasions.
The accommodation in the church is 500 sittings, and if the po-
pulation twelve years and up wards be 1008, about 508 must be with-
out seats ; and if 848 be in the habit of occasionally attending public
worship in the parish church there must be 348 who cannot attend
every day for want of seats. But if 848 could be accommodated,
there would still be 150 twelve years of age and upwards without
accommodation. The number of persons belonging to other per-
suasions scarcely amounts to one-fifth of the population ; and
those twelve years and upwards are scarcely one-tenth. About
one twenty -third part of those belonging to the Establishment are
440 LANARKSHIRE.
»
of the wealthy classes, among those of other denominations one-
eleventh part. Those belonging to no denomination form up-
wards of a twentieth part of the whole population. The propor-
tion of the poor or working-classes who worship in the parish
church is at -least twice greater than among the other denomina-
tions.
Education. — Besides the parish school, there are also schools at
Lightburn, Bushyhill, and Silverbank. The parish school has for
many years past been in a very flourishing condition under Mr
Hall. The salary is the maximum, with a good house and gar-
den. Through the liberality of the heritors a considerable addi-
tion is now making to the school-room, and also to the dwelling-
house above it. The following tables will give an interesting view
of the state of education in this parish.
Parochial School.
Greatest number. Least number.
Males. Females. Total. Males. Females. Total.
Scholars of each sex between
25th March, and 29th
September 1833. 63 44 107 58 37 95
Do. do. from 29th September,
to 25th March 1833-34, 56 36 92 50 34 84
The branches taught are English reading, English grammar,
writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, Latin, geography and French.
The average attendance is 95, and the fees amount to about L.40.
It would appear that the average number of boys more than girls
in the summer season is 19, and in the winter season 18.
Schools not Parochial.
Greatest number. Least number.
Males. Females. Total. Males. Females. Total.
Lightburn school, 28 19 47 30 15 45
Bushyhill do. 14 10 24 1010 20
Do. two schools no returns.
Silverbank no returns.
The following table will give an idea of the ages of pupils, and
of the branches of education taught in the private schools.
Lightburn. Bushyhill 1st. Bushyhill 2d. Silverbank.
M. F. Total M. F. Total M. F. Total M. F. Total
Under 5, 11 11
5 to 15 reading, 29 11 40 9 6 15 8 11 19 4 4 8
5 to 15 writing,
and arithmetic, 10 5 15 11 202221 3
The average number of children attending the above schools is
82, and if we add 95 for the parish school, the total number of
scholars in the parish will be 1 77. If the number of children below
twelve years of age be 1352, only one-seventh attend school. There
are 615 children below ten, of whom 350 will be below five, leav-
CAMBUSLANG. 441
ing 265 capable of attending school ; and admitting that 177 do
so, there must be 83 who are not receiving regular public instruc-
tion at any of the schools in the parish.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are in this parish several
mortifications for the support of the poor. In 1615, James Mar-
quis of Hamilton, in conjunction with Mr John Howison, minister
of Cambuslang, mortified a sum of money, the yearly interest of
which was directed to be employed for maintaining in an hospital
in Hamilton eight poor men, two of whom were always to belong
to the parish of Cambuslang. Gabriel Hamilton of Westburn, in
1700, mortified 600 merks, the interest of which was to be laid out
in buying shoes and hose to the indigent. James Glassford, Esq.
of the family of Douglaston, mortified L. 100, in 1828, the interest
of which amounts to L. 2, 10s. for providing clothing to poor child-
ren attending school, and to the more necessitous and better be-
having poor. There is an annual collection for coals, which
amounts to about L. 3, and Mr Farie, tacksman of the Duke of
Hamilton's colliery, usually furnishes twenty-four carts annually at
his own expense.
The number of poor upon the ordinary poors'* roll is 58, including
widows, 15 of whom have families, perhaps about 100 persons in all.
The regular contributions are L. 100 in six months, or L. 200 per
annum, which is at the rate of L.3, 10s. each per annum, or if 100
in all be dependent on these funds, it will be L. 2 each. Only one
twenty- seventh of the population are paupers, and the greater por-
tion of these are rendered incapable of earning a livelihood from
debility or old age. The collection at the church door, for the
last five years, was as follows: In 1830, L. 31, 11s. 8^d. ; 1831,
L. 28, 16s. 9£d. ; 1833, L. 23, 8s. Ofd.; 1834, L. 25, 16s. 5d.;
1835, L.25, 14s. 2d. Total L. 135, 9s. IJd. Average, L. 23,
Is. 9d. The sum of L. 23, Is. 9d, per annum will average 218
halfpennies every Sunday; and if 450 be the average attendance,
scarcely one -half of those who attend put any thing into the plate.
The average amount to those who contribute regularly will not ex-
ceed 2s. per annum.
The mortcloth dues for the last six years during summer and
winter were as follows :
Autumn and Winter. Swing and Summer.
1830 L.3 3 6 L.2 10 0
1831 4 11 6 4 19 6
1832 4 19 8 1 14 3
1833 3110 2 14 2
LANARKSHIRE.
1834 L. 2 0 0 L. 2 11 6
1836 340 1 11 0
Total L. 22 9 8 L. 16 0 5
Average L. 3 14 11 L. 2 13 4
It is observable that the second half year exceeds the first by
L. 1, Is. 7d. ; the total amount of the whole year is L. 6, 7s. 5d.
The average number of deaths is nearly 52; this will give as the ave-
rage price of each mortcloth for rich and poor 2s. 5d. The ex-
cess of L. 1, Is. 7d. on the latter half of the year, will give fully
eight more deaths for that half than for the former half. There
are in the parish about 28 public houses where ardent spirits are
sold.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
This and the neighbouring parishes depend in a great measure
on Glasgow ; which is the great mart to which the inhabitants re-
sort, both forbuying and selling. The improvements in Glasgow, and
the great increase of its population, have extended in a considera-
ble degree to the districts around. An increasing demand for
the articles which land produces, a ready market, and favourable,
though not extravagant prices, give life and vigour to the exertions
of the farmer. Growing wealth has created new wants, and the
habits of the people and their means of subsistence have been gra-
dually improving. The rental of the parish has been more than
doubled since the publication of last report, and the gross amount
of raw produce has also undergone a proportional increase. The
population is more than doubled, and seems to be still on the in-
crease.
June 1836.
PARISH OF DALZIEL.
PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR,
THE REV. JAMES CLASON, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name and Extent. — THE parish of Dalziel is situated in the
middle ward of Lanarkshire, 13 miles from Glasgow, 14 from La-
nark, and 1 from the town of Hamilton. It is bounded on the
east by the parish of Cambusnethan ; on the west by the parish of
Hamilton and the river Calder ; on the south by the parish of Ha-
milton and the river Clyde ; and on the north by the river Calder
and the parish of Hamilton. At the north-west corner, four pa-
rishes meet, — Bothwell, Shotts, Cambusnethan, and Dalziel, the
two former lying on the north side of the river Calder, and the two
latter on the south side of that river. The origin and meaning of
the name have been differently explained. In the charters of the
thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries, the name appears in
the form of Dalyell. Some have therefore thought that it is of
Celtic origin, and denotes White Meadow, this being the meaning
of the word Dalgheal in that language, and that it has been so cal-
led on account qf a white scurf, or a large white go wan (Chrysan-
themum Leucanthemum ) which covered the ground before it was
improved by cultivation. Others have supposed that it got its
name from the Dalzells, afterwards Earls of Carnwath, who for-
merly possessed the barony of Dalziel. But it is more likely that
it had previously received its name, and that they adopted it as their
surname. The books of heraldry give the following account of
the origin and meaning of the word Dalziel : — " A favourite and near
kinsman of King Kenneth II. was taken by the Picts and hang-
ed upon a gibbet. The King, urged by grief at the disgraceful
treatment of his friend, proffered a large reward for the rescue of
the body, which, as a forlorn hope, was for some time unavailing,
until at length a valiant gentleman said to the King, in the old
Scottish language, ' Dal Zell I dare,' and having successfully per-
444 LANARKSHIRE.
formed the exploit, took the gibbet and words for his arms and
name, which to this day are borne by his posterity. The name is
now written Dalziel or Dalzell."
The parish is a small one, containing only 2283 Scotch acres.
It is about 4 four miles long and 3 broad. Its figure is irregu-
lar, in consequence of a small part of the parish lying on the south
of the Clyde ; and two parts of the parish of Hamilton, the one ex-
tending nearly into the centre, and the other, in the north-west cor-
ner, on the river Calder, are entirely separated by this parish from
that of Hamilton. There is a tradition that these portions of the
parish of Hamilton formerly belonged to this parish, but no pro-
per account is given of their disjunction. Why they have not been
restored, if ever they formed a part of the original parish, is not
known. But certainly the addition of these lands, and of Muir-
house, in the parish of Cambusnethan, which is situated three miles
from the parish church, and little more than one from the church
here, with the teinds parsonage and vicarage, would render this
parish more compact, would improve the living, (one of the small
ones,) and would be more convenient for the inhabitants, who in
general are indebted to the minister of this parish for the means
of religious instruction.
Topographical Appearances. — The land in general rises gradu-
ally from the rivers Clyde and Calder, interspersed with occasional
inequalities, to a flat ridge in the centre of the parish ; conse-
quently there is always, with the exception of a few flat pieces of
ground, a sufficient declivity to carry off the water, and snow does
not lie so long as on some high grounds in the neighbourhood.
The banks of the Clyde are in general low, except at the Roman
camp opposite the Ross wood, where they are precipitous ; those
of the Calder are so in several places, and particularly on the farm
of Ravenscraig, near Wishaw House, where they are quite preci-
pitous, resembling the wall -of a house. There are several glens
of different sizes. The principal one is that contiguous to Dalziel
House, and which is abou* two miles in length. No part of the
parish is more than 200 feet above the level of the sea.
Hydrography. — Before the^Clyde reaches this parish, it has tra-
versed a distance of 50- suites, andi- after running about 18 miles
farther it reaches Glasgow.,' -It -is liable occasionally to great in-
undations, which have sometimes been productive of injurious con-
sequences. In the harvest of 1807, the tenant of the haugh grounds
DALZIEL. 445
upon the Clyde, lost, by the spate which occurred at that time,
between L. 400 and L. 500, in crop and manure. This serious
loss induced the proprietor to embank the river, and to alter the
course of a burn, which has succeeded in preventing the land from
being flooded. As the water, however, which covered the ground
on such occasions was not running, but back-water, owing to a turn
in the river, and the junction of the burn mentioned, doubts have been
entertained by some whether the ground be as fertile as formerly.
The South Calder, (a name denoting wooded river,) which forms
the principal boundary of this parish to the north, takes its rise in
the parish of Shotts, is here about 60 feet broad, and from its
source to its junction with the Clyde, at the south-west corner of
the parish, may be estimated to be about 20 miles in length.
Besides these two rivers, there is a burn of considerable size cal-
led the Dalziel burn, which takes its rise in the parish of Cambus-
nethan, runs through the glen at Dalziel House, and joins the
Clyde about two miles from its source.
From the nature of the soil — a hard clay, — there are few springs
of water near the surface. Those which have been discovered,
have therefore been much valued, and in Popish times were ho-
noured with the name of saints, such as St Patrick's, St Margaret's,
St Catharine's, and the well of Our Lady. Some of these wells
have been seriously injured by the draining of quarries near them,
and one by a similar operation in regard to land has, to the great
grief of those in the neighbourhood, been entirely destroyed. This
well was of a mineral and supposed medicinal quality, and was con-
sidered by those who knew its value to be superior to every other,
for the infusion of tea, and was therefore called the Tea-well.
Those who had been in the practice of using it for that purpose think
they have not got that beverage in perfection since it was dried up.
Geology and Mineralogy. — This parish lies near the centre of
the great upper coal-field of the Clyde, and, in a geological and
mineralogical point of view, presents nearly the same features as
the rest of the district. At the Roman camp, on the banks of the
Clyde, the rocks are from 12 to 20 feet high, and are composed
almost entirely of clay-slate and bituminous shale, with a sort of
shivery freestone above it, which, separates readily into very thin
plates. The clay-slate is very friable, and falls down in large mas-
ses, when acted on by the alternations of frost and thaw. In the
midst of the freestone, is a regular layer of flag or pavement, two
446 LANARKSHIRE.
or three inches in thickness, which runs along the face of the rocks
at a considerable height; and at one place, above a small well op-
posite the Ross wood, these stones crop out to the day, in a po-
sition so regular, and are so smooth and well polished, and neatly
and regularly jointed, that they more resemble a work of art than
of nature. Some of the freestone connected with the coal mea-
sures of this parish is different, in so far as we are aware, from
that of any other district in the county. At the Windmill-hill
quarry, at present wrought in two places, a very hard rough-grained
freestone, abounding with unequal grains of quartz, much resem-
bling the Arenarius molaris of Linnaeus, is much sought after by
masons, for forming chimney heads, and also by the proprietors of
iron forges, for pavement, &c. it having been ascertained to be
unequalled for standing both the weather and the fire. It was of
this strong and durable stone that the bridge near Hamilton was
built. Near the village of Craigneuk, there is an excellent flag-
stone quarry. These stones are of a fine grain, and of a reddish co-
lour, and are from one-fourth of an inch to five inches in thickness.
They are frequently used in the neighbourhood instead of slate,
for the purpose of covering houses. The projected Wishaw
and Coltness Railway is to pass near these quarries, and it has
been ascertained, that, from the estates of Dalziel, Wishaw, and
Coltness, 1600 tons of stones of different sorts may be sent to
Glasgow annually, which at 7d. per ton for carriage, would yield
the proprietors L. 466, 13s. 4d. The pavement required for gen-
tlemen's seats which have been lately built in different parts of the
county has been obtained from the Craigneuk quarry.
Coal abounds in this parish, but it is only wrought at No. 1 or
Engine Pit, near Coursington. At the depth of 10 fathoms from
the surface, we have the upper or rough coal, which is here 6 feet
thick. Above this coal, there are five feet of surface, and the rest
is blaes, (clay-slate, and bituminous shale,) ^intermixed with small
beds of ironstone each 1^ or 2 inches thick. At the depth of 14
fathoms from the rough coal, the Ell coal occurs. It is here 4 feet
in thickness, and is that now wrought. The main roof is rock, and
the pavement a scurf of fine clay on solid rock. Fourteen fathoms
farther down is the splint coal, but it has not yet been wrought in
this parish. Above the coal, is a foot of blaes, and below it five
feet of fine clay. The coal from this pit is often marked on its
surface with the remains of various species of reeds, and with small
DALZIEL. 447
leaves, resembling chickweed, which gives it a chequered appear-
ance. The dip is to the north, and the rise of course to the south.
The freestone quarries also affect the same inclination. On the
Clyde, however, at the Camp, the dip is to the east.
The greater portion of the surface of this parish is a yellow clay.
There is, however, a considerable quantity of what is called croft
land in almost every farm. The haughs and holms on the Clyde
are a rich loam on a sandy or gravelly subsoil.
Zoology. — By an act James IV. Parl. 6th, cap. 74 — for planting
and policy — it is enacted, that " every Lord and Laird make parks
with deer, stanks, i. e. fish-ponds, andcunningars or rabbit warrens.'7
Accordingly there was here formerly a park well stocked with deer.
There are also the remains of an ancient cruive dam at the camp,
which indicates that the salmon were (which was really the case,)
more abundant than at present. Forty -five years ago, they were
often caught here in great quantities. Since the erection of the
dam at Blantyre cotton works, and from other causes, they have
become very scarce. The cunningar belonging to Dalziel still
retains its ancient name. The coneys or rabbits, which occupied
that spot, have been long ago extirpated, and the field levelled,
and regularly cultivated. A number of these animals have, how-
ever, lately made their appearance in this quarter, report says, in-
troduced by sportsmen for the purpose of furnishing food for the
foxes. The cunningar is now on the opposite side of the Clyde,
though still in the parish, from which it seems to have been cut
off at no very remote period, by the river assuming a new channel
and leaving the old one nearly dry, — now termed the dead waters.
The haughs of Dalziel are famous for the number and the excel-
lence of the hares which they produce.
The Caprimulgus Europceus or goatsucker is common in the
woods. The Lanius excubitor or common shrike is also occasion-
ally observed. The Turdus iliacus and Turdus pilaris or redwing
and fieldfare thrushes, were observed this season to be absent little
more than three months, a flock having been seen in the begin-
ning of May, and again in the beginning of August. The Frin-
gilla spinus or siskin is very common, also Parus caudatus or long-
tailed titmouse. There was, till within these twelve years, an ex-
tensive rookery contiguous to Dalziel House ; but by cutting the
Scotch fir trees, (to which crows are partial) driving down their
nests and other means, they were completely expelled. In pas-
sing the spot from which they had been driven vi et armis, thev
448 LANARKSHIRE.
were observed afterwards, to give a mournful and angry cry, and
to make a sudden deviation from their course, turning away with
seeming disgust, from a place where they had been so hardly treated.
Ardea stellaris or bittern, one shot here lately.
The following are the only fish found in the Clyde and Calder,
\.PetromyzonJluviatilis or river lamprey, here called lamper»eel.
We should doubt its going down regularly to the sea, as it has
many obstacles to encounter, which seem to be too great for it
to overcome, yet it is by no means rare in these waters. 2. Salmo
Solar or common salmon. 3. Salmo trutta or sea trout, very rare.
4. Salmo Salvelinus, torgoch or char. This fish was taken, upwards
of a century ago, from an alpine lake by Anne Duchess of Hamilton,
and naturalized in the Pamilian and Avon near Strathaven, from
which it occasionally descends to the Clyde. It is here termed
Duchess Anne's trout. 5. Salmo fario or common trout, abundant.
6. Esox Lucius, or common pike, abundant in still water. 7. Lends-
cits rutilus or roach, but there generally termed braize, — is rather a
rare fish, and is chiefly caught in May. It is supposed by some
that it comes into the Clyde from Lochlomond, when the general
migration occurs, about the beginning of summer; but as there
are obstacles in the Clyde which prevent larger fish from getting
up here, we cannot see how so small a fish could overcome these
difficulties. 8. Leuciscus phoxinus or minnow, very common.
9. Cobitis barbatula, loach or beardy, more common on the rocky
bed of the Avon than in the Clyde. It lies basking in the sun at
the bottom of rivers, and readily suffers itself to be taken by what
the boys term a sned, i. e. two or three horse hairs plaited to-
gether, and fastened to the end of a wand, in the form of a loop,
which is slipped over the fish's head and suddenly drawn up ; vast
quantities are thus destroyed, but are not eaten. 10. Platessa
Flesusy flounder. It is most common below the dam at Blantyre,
but has also been occasionally found here. 11. Angailla vulgaris,
or common eel, very abundant. 12. Perca fluviatilis or perch,
occasionally found here. The par also common.
Botany. — The following is a list of the different plants : Circea
Lutetiana, enchanter's nightshade ; Veronica montana, mountain
speedwell ; Phalaris Canariensis, canary grass ; Milium effmum,
millet grass ; Galium boreale, broad-leaved bed-straw ; Symphytum
officinale, common comfrey ; Campanula trachelium, at Dalziel
House^ but now extirpated ; Epilobium angustifolium, rose-bay
DALZIEL. 449
willow herb ; Trollius Europceus, globe flower ; Serapias latifolia,
broad-leaved helleborine, &c.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Family of Dahell — The Dalzells, the ancestors of the Earl of
Carnwath, are the most remote proprietors of whom any thing is
known. The precise time when they acquired the barony of Dal-
ziel, which was sometimes possessed by one member of the fami-
ly, and at other times shared by two or more of them, has not
been ascertained. If the origin and meaning of their name, as
given in heraldry, be correct, it is not improbable, that a grant of
the lands of Dalziel may have formed a part of the reward, be-
stowed by King Kenneth, for the rescue of the body of his kins-
man,— which will fix the date of their possession to have been
in the ninth century. The earliest certain information we have
respecting the family is in the thirteenth century. From this
date, the Dalzells seem to have been knighted, either by royal au-
thority or by courtesy. In 1365, Sir Robert Dalzell, who faithfully
adhered to King David Bruce during his captivity in England,
obtained a grant of the barony of Selkirk. But it appears he
afterwards incurred the displeasure of his sovereign. William
Hamilton, Esq. of Wishaw, who wrote an account of the sheriff-
dom of Lanark in 1702, and whose authority as an antiquarian is
unquestionable, states that the parish and barony did anciently be-
long to the Dalzells of that ilk, until the forfeiture of Sir Ro-
bert Dalzell, in the time of King David Bruce, for abiding in
England without the King's consent. The estate was then given to
Sir Sandilands, (others say the name was Fleming.)* By the
marriage of his grandchild to the heir-male of Sir Robert Dal-
zell, the estate returned to the family, and continued in their sole
possession, until the death of a proprietor leaving two daughters.
The eldest married the nearest heir of the family ; and the young-
est, a son of the Laird of West Nisbet. To distinguish the lat-
ter from the former, he was commonly called Baron Nisbet of Dal-
zell, and his share of the property, Dalzell Nisbet. The spot
where his house stood is still pointed out, and the adjoining orchard
retains the name of the Baron's Yaird. In 1628, Sir Robert Dal-
zell having been made Lord Dalzell by Charles I. he purchased
from Baron Nisbet his share of the estate. The burying-place
of the family seems to have been in the east end of the area of
the old church. Upon a grave-stone found there, which the late
* There is a place in the parish still called Fleraingtor.
450 LANARKSHIRE.
proprietor removed, (I suppose, for its greater preservation,) to the
burying-ground of the present family, there is the following in-
scription : " Here lyis James Dalyell, Mearchant Bvrger Edr. law-
ful sone to umql. Thomas Daylell, wch. Thomas wes lawful sone
to the Right Honl. umql. William Dalyell of the ilk, procreat be-
twix him and his Lady Gelis Hamilton, lawful daughter to the
Laird Preston, wch. James depairt tys lyf, at the place of Dal-
yell, the 8th of March 1608, being of the age of 78 yeiris." This
stone seems to havebe'en prepared with care ; the lettering is good,
and the armorial bearings of the family are, a man suspended from
a gibbet cut upon it. Several members of the family have sig-
nalized themselves, and are specified in different charters and in
military records. Sir William Dalzell, the person mentioned
on the grave-stone, is described in heraldry as a gallant and hu-
morous knight, who lost an eye at the battle of Otterbourne in the
year 1388. Sir Piers Courtenay having accepted a challenge im-
plied by Dalzell's adoption of badges borne by Courtenay, Sir Wil-
liam terminated the affair by a demand that, as by the laws of
tournament, the champions should be equal, Courtenay should have
an eye extinguished before the combat. Sir Robert Dalzell, in
1508, was killed by the Lord Maxwell. Another Sir Robert warm-
ly espoused the cause of Queen Mary, and was engaged on her side
in the battle of Langside in 1568. For his fidelity to her interests,
he obtained a charter from Francis and Mary, dated 27th August
1559, " Roberto de Dalyell eodem terrarum de Dalyell et molen-
dina de Lanark ;" and he or his successor also obtained from her
a grant of the patronage andteinds of this parish, — a grant, however,
which, when litigated, he failed to make good. Lord Dalzell having
acquired the estate of Carnwath from James Earl of Buchan in
1634, was in 1639 created Earl of Carnwath. In 1647 the Earl
of Carnwath sold the principal part of the Dalzell estate to James
Hamilton of Boggs. Johnston, a part of the barony, however, re-
mained in the possession of the Dalzells till the end of the six-
teenth century, when it was also purchased by Mr Hamilton,
— whose descendant is still the proprietor of the estate. As the
Dalzells and Hamiltons were connected by frequent intermarriages
(the mother of Mr Hamilton of Boggs was a daughter of Sir
Robert Dalzell), this may account for one of that family becoming
the purchaser, and might also tend to his acquiring the property
on more favourable terms than any other person.
DALZIEL. 451
All the Hamiltons in the west, and perhaps throughout Scot-
land, are descended from the ancestors of his Grace the Duke of
Hamilton. Gavin, the fourth son of Sir James Hamilton of Cad-
zovv, is the branch from which the Hamiltons of Dalziel have de-
scended. He granted a charter in 1468 of the lands of Osbern-
ston (now Orbiston,) with the consent of the chaplains of Both-
well, to whom these lands had been given by the third Earl of Dou-
glas when he made that church collegiate to his son Robert,
Chancellor of Glasgow, whom failing, to his other sons in succes-
sion. His third son, John, eventually succeeded to Orbis-
ton, whose grandson, David, was the first proprietor of Bothwell-
haugh. James Hamilton of Boggs, and first laird of Dalziel of
that name, was son of the fifth proprietor of Orbiston ; and his
brother, Sir John, was Lord Justice-Clerk in the reign of Charles I.
Heirs failing, both in Orbiston and in Bothwellhaugh, these es-
tates came to the Hamiltons of Dalziel. Archibald, the fourth
Hamilton of Dalziel, also succeeded his maternal grandfather in
the estate of Rosehall, and removed the entail to Dalziel. Archi-
bald was succeeded, first by his son James, and then by his son the
late General Hamilton, who, surviving his son Archibald James,
is succeeded by his grandson, John Glencairn Carter Hamilton,
who is a minor. With the lands of Bothwellhaugh, there was con-
veyed to the Dalziei family the gun with which James, the second
laird of that property, shot the Regent Murray, and which had
been preserved in the family, not from an approval of that foul
deed, but merely as a relic of antiquity. It is now in the posses-
sion of his Grace the Duke of Hamilton, having been presented
to him by the late General Hamilton when he sold to him the
lands of Bothwellhaugh.
Roman Road. — The principal branch of the western Roman
highway or Watling Street, as it has been called, passed through
this parish from east to west. It entered at a place called Mea-
dowhead, near Wishaw gate. The present road from Glasgow to
Lanark by Carluke has been here, for a considerable way, form-
ed upon it. When the last Statistical Account was written, and
till within these twelve years, a part of it had been preserved en-
tire, and a large heap of the cinders of the Roman forges remain-
ed untouched. All trace of it has now been effaced by recent im-
provements. At the north-west boundary of the parish, there is
a bridge over the river Calder, evidently of great antiquity, and
452 LANARKSHIRE.
which, from time immemorial, has been called the Roman bridge,
by which that people entered the parish of Bothwell. It is about
]2 feet broad, and consists of an arch, high, causewayed, and
without ledges.
Roman Camps. — Of these there were two in this parish. One
was situated on a steep bank of the Calder, near the above bridge,
and about seventy years ago was pretty entire. I made inquiry re-
specting it at an old man, now in his ninety-fourth year, with his
faculties in great vigour, and who all his life, till disabled, had
been in the service of the proprietor. He informed me that he
recollected it distinctly, and that he assisted in its demolition.
The other camp was in the centre of the parish, on the top of
a steep bank of the Clyde. Parts of the ditches are here still
traceable, in which, when they were cleared out, as stated in the
last Statistical Account, were found cinders of the Roman forg-
es. To perpetuate the memory of this camp, the proprietor,
about a century ago, built a summer-house with a bartizan on the
top of it, cleared the banks of the furze and briers, cut a number of
terrace walks along it, and wherever he found a sufficiency of soil,
planted forest or fruit-trees. From the bartizan on the summer-house
there is an extensive view of the surrounding country, so beauti-
fully diversified, as to form quite a panorama, well deserving the
attention of the landscape painter. The lofty ruins and oaks of
Cadzow, — the green pastures and gaudy pinnacles of Chatelherault,
— the Ross wood on the steep bank immediately opposite, — the
bridge, the town, the palace, and the policy of Hamilton, — the
windings of the Clyde below, and for a considerable way up and
down the river, and, but for a few trees on the east and west of the
house, Strathclyde, from Tinto to Benlomond, with a rich variety
of hill and dale, — render the scene perhaps one of the most gratify-
ing in Scotland.
Sarcophagus. — In the foundation of the west gable of the old
church, which was rebuilt in 17 J 8, there was found a handsome
stone coffin, large enough to contain the body of a full-grown man,
but empty, and which is now placed against the old churchyard
wall. In the inside, the upper part is hollowed out to suit the shape
of the head and neck, and, when found, there was a hewn stone
cover for the face, with a cinque-foil carved upon it, but which has
not been preserved. The carving upon it is plain. It must have
been used for some distinguished person; but for whom, is unknown.
DALZIEL. -453
Urn. — In digging the foundation of the lodge for the old entry
to Dalziel House, about thirty-five years ago, an urn was discover-
ed containing bones, which shows that the ancient Britons inha-
bited this part of the country.
Cross Stones. — Of these stones (at which the barons anciently
held their courts, tried, condemned, and executed criminals,) there
were three till lately. One of them stands near the site of Baron
Nisbit's House. It is a heptagon, with a sword emblazoned on
one side of it. The other two were placed where the Roman road
deviated from the present one, but have been removed by recent
improvements.
Dalziel Mansion-house. — It is situated on the north side of the
Dalziel burn, and on the most picturesque part of the bank of the
glen through which it runs. It was built in the year 1649, two
years after the estate was bought by Mr Hamilton of Boggs, and is
a very fine specimen of an old baronial residence. It is 88 feet in
length, and 27 in breadth. The sunk story is arched over, an
which was formerly the kitchen and extensive cellarage. The din-
ing-room is 32 by 21 feet, and the walls are wainscoat unpainted, and
"hung around with the pictures of the ancestors and connections of
the family. Among others, Sir John Hamilton of Orbiston in a
coat of mail, James Hamilton of Boggs, and Lord Westhall, one
of the Senators of the College of Justice, in his robes of office. At-
tached to the house is an old tower, formerly called Peel House,
without date. It is about 50 feet high, the walls are 8 feet thick,
having the holes or recesses, which were used for sleepingin,and it is
28 by 34 over walls. Only two parts of it are now used, the one as a
cellar and passage to a modern kitchen, and the other as an upper
kitchen. In this kitchen, an iron chain suspends from the roof a
lustre, composed of large stag horns, connected with iron, with
sockets for the candles of the same metal.
Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers commence in the
year 1644, and except from 1744 to 1 797, have been regularly kept;
but are not voluminous.
Land-owners.— The land-owners are, the Right Hon. Lord Bel-
haven and Stenton ; John Glencairn ; Carter Hamilton, Esq. of
Dalziel ; Robert Stewart, Esq. of Carfin ; and Thomas Mansfield,
accountant, Edinburgh, is trustee on the unentailed lands of the
Dalziel estate. — Proprietors all above L. 50 of yearly rent
LANARK. G fif
ft
454 LANARKSHIRE.
III. — POPULATION.
In 1755, - 351
1791, - 478
1801, - 611
1811, - 758
1821, . 955
1831, . 11*80 Increased since last census about 50.
Number of males in 1831, 592 ; females in ditto, 588.
The increase of the population for the last sixty years in this pa-
rish has been chiefly owing to the improvements in the cotton and
silk manufactures.
Number of the population residing in villages, 859
in the country, - 356
Yearly average of births for the last seven years, 30
of deaths, 18
of marriages, 9
Average number of persons under 15 years, • 475
between 15 and 30, - - 371
30 and 50, - 248
50 and 70, 109
Above 70, 10 men, 13 women ; above 80, 2 women ; do 88, 2 ; do 91, 1 woman ; and
above 94, 1 man.
Number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, above 50, 22
women, including widows, above 45, - 50
families, - - 242
Average number of children in each family, - 4£
Number of inhabited houses, - 2! 6
uninhabited or now finishing, , - 8
families employed in agriculture, - 46
persons employed in manufactures, 205
labourers in mines, - - 18
persons employed in handicraft, masons, 13 ; wrights, 9 ; shoemakers, 9 ;
smiths, 20; tailors, 6; retired labourers, 5; fatuous, 4; blind, 1 ; average of ille-
gitimate children in the year, 1.
The language generally spoken is a mixture of Scotch and Eng-
lish. The use of the Scotch has decreased within the last forty
years, in consequence, I apprehend^ of the improvement in teaching
at the schools. But when persons are under excitement, the lan-
guage used is Scotch. Then, the writer has observed, here and in
other parts of Scotland, that the lower orders of society and many
in the middling ranks, too, discover an acquaintance with that ex-
pressive dialect, which could not be inferred from their ordinary
conversation. The people, upon the whole, have within the last
thirty years improved in cleanliness. In consequence of the de-
pressed state of manufactures, they have been subjected to many
privations, but they have borne them patiently. Now trade has im-
proved, and since the introduction of silk-weaving, they gain bet-
ter wages. A weaver generally works fourteen hours a-day, and
sometimes longer. The people in general are quiet, sober, industri-
ous, and regular in their conduct. No individual connected with this
parish has ever been chargeable with a capital offence, and they
DAL2IKL. 455
have hitherto kept free from any share in intimidation or acts of
violence. A few cases of poaching have occurred, but not of an ag-
gravated nature.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture and Rural Economy. — This parish contains 1873
arable acres Scotch, of a heavy clay soil, except about 140, on the
banks of the Clyde and Calder, which are of a deep loam, or what
is called haugh land. There are about 340 acres planted with
wood, and 70 acres in copse, — 410 in all. The kinds of trees which
have been planted are, Scotch fir, larch, oak, ash, elm, lime and
plane tree. As hard wood is generally planted among the firs at
the distance of five and six feet, and the firs from three and a-half
to four feet, in thinning, the plan generally adopted is to prune the
firs for the first ten or twelve years, so as to allow the hard wood to
rise. After this period, the firs are cut down whenever they seem
to hinder the growth of the other trees, and the thinnings sold for
making fences, &c. The yearly thinnings in this way yield from
L. 1, 10s. to L. 2, 5s. per acre. The copse is cut once in twenty-six
or twenty-eight years, and yields from L. 2 to L. 3, 10s. per acre,
each year, from the time of its being cut. In noticing the wood,
we must advert to two rows of large trees, planted in the form of
an avenue, extending about a mile along the banks of the Clyde,
which, closing together with their upper branches, present a good
specimen of Gothic architecture, and with the breeze from the river,
afford a cool and shady walk in the hottest day of summer. We
are not aware of any thing like it in Scotland to the same extent,
and in such a favourable situation. We must also mention a large
oak tree, near Dalziel House, which, though it must have weather-
ed the storm of many hundred years, is still in a thriving state. Its
trunk is 21 feet in circumference, 1^ yard from the ground, and
its branches spread out beautifully on all sides, to a considerable dis-
tance. This is probably one of those trees mentioned by Sir Wal-
ter Scott, at which the lord of the manor used anciently to receive
and to welcome his guests.
Rent of Land. — The average rent of land is L. 1, 8s. per acre
Scotch, but some parts are let at L.3, 10s. and L. 4. The average
rent for grazing a milch cow or ox is L. 2, 10s. to L. 3, 10s. A ewe
7s. to 7s. 6d.
Wages. — The rate of wages for farm labourers in summer is from
Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. with victuals ; in winter from Is. to Is. 3d.; without
victuals from Is. 8d. to 2s. per day. Masons get in summer from
456 LANARKSHIRE.
3s. to 3s. 6d. ; in winter 2s. 6d. to 3s. ; carpenters from 2s. 6d. to 3s. ;
smiths charge 2s. 8d. to 3s. for shoeing a horse ; other work is at 4d.
and 8d. per Ib. ; journeymen smiths get from 8s. to 10s. per week
with victuals ; shoemakers 2s. to 2s. 6d. ; tailors 2s. 6d. to 3s. ;
weavers' wages the same as given in the account of Hamilton. There
is a small foundery for spades, shovels, &c. kept by Mr Donald, who
is famed for these articles.
Live-Stock. — Few sheep are reared here. The cows are chiefly
of the Ayrshire breed, and the farmers pay considerable attention
to the management of their dairy stock, often sending to that county
for a supply. The horses are of a mixed breed, and consequently
few are reared. The farmers now find that they can supply them-
selves at a cheaper rate at the Lanark, Glasgow, or Rutherglen
markets.
Husbandry. — The mode of cropping on the light land is, 1st, oats ;
2(7, green drilled crops ; 3d, wheat; 4th, hay. On the clay soils, some
take two white crops, then wheat after summer fallow, next hay,
after which two or three years pasture. Some take, 1st, oats ; 3d,
beans and peas ; 3d, oats ; 4th, wheat after fallow ; 5th, hay ;
then pasture seven or eight years, and others take, 1st, beans and
peas broadcast, with manure ; 2d, oats ; 3d, hay ; 4th, two years
pasture. The latter rotation has been more extensively adopted,
since wheat became so low priced.
The soil is very capable of farther improvement, and stands
much in need of furrow-draining, very little having yet been done
here in that way.
The length of leases is generally nineteen years, which is con-
sidered a suitable period. If tenants at the end of their leases,
were repaid a part of the expense of permanent improvements, and
for the manure of which they have not reaped the benefit, it would
operate as a means of keeping the land always in good condition,
which would prove beneficial both to landlord and tenant.
The farm -steadings are in general old, but are pretty convenient,
and are kept in tolerable order. There is a large one on the Dal-
ziel farm, built about twelve years ago, with very extensive accom-
modation for farming operations, which cost L. 3000. The fences
on some of the farms have rather been neglected of -late, as, owing
to the markets being so low, the tenants have been unable to hire
labourers to keep them in good order. A number of the farmers
have thrashing-mills.
The only improvements recently made were effected by the late
Archibald Hamilton, Esq. of Dalziel. He embanked the river
DALZ1EL. 457
vl
Clyde, planted a great part of the waste lands, enlarged and im-
proved the orchards, trenched upwards of 230 acres to different
depths, according to the nature of the soil and subsoil, which had
a good effect both upon the crops, and in improving and deepening
the thin soils.
Produce. —
Yearly value of grain of all kinds, : .. - ' - L. 3700
Potatoes, -' 748
Turnips, .--•,: < ^ , ,;-,., 444
Hay, - r - - ' - - t 800
Natural hay, 50
Dairy produce, 1600
Large fruit in orchards, 435
Gooseberries and currants, 45
Produce of gardens in the parish, including Dalziel House garden, 200
Miscellaneous produce, - " 100
Quarries, 60
L.8182
There are 200 milch cows kept, and 52 horses for labouring the
land.
The parish roads extend to 6^ miles, and are kept in good
order, at the yearly expense of JL 45, which is paid by the land-
lords, tenants, keepers of horses, and such householders as are con-
sidered able to contribute. There are three bridges ; one of them
has been recently rebuilt, and cost L. 250, and the other two are
in good repair. There is a mill for grinding wheat, oats, &c.
Orchards. — Orchards are of considerable antiquity on the Clyde.
Merlin, the poet, who wrote about the middle of the fifth century,
celebrates Clydesdale for its fruit. The soil and climate being
inland, and consequently free from the blasting influence of mil-
dews and fogs, may account for its being so favourable for the
cultivation of orchards. At first, they were planted in the shape
of gardens, attached to houses for the accommodation of the
resident families. For two centuries or more, they have been cul-
tivated as a source of profit; they chiefly prevail, and are most ex-
tensive and productive, on the north bank of the Clyde, having a
southern exposure, though on the south bank there are also a con-
siderable number, and some of them very fruitful. Those of Cam-
busnethan, the property of Robert Lockhart, Esq. of Castlehill,
and of John G. C. Hamilton, Esq. of Dalziel, are the most exten-
sive, and among the most productive. The fruit in the former has
some years brought L. 800, and in the latter L. 600.
The orchards are in general planted on sloping banks, otherwise
only fit for the growth of forest trees. In consequence, however,
of their having been found profitable, especially during the late
458 LANAUKSHIRF.
wars, when foreign fruit was in a great measure excluded, and even
that from England and Ireland was with difficulty brought to our
market's, a considerable quantity of ground was planted with fruit
trees, which was well adapted for any species of husbandry. In
some cases, too, when a person had an orchard, but not of suffi-
cient extent to make it an object of attention to a purchaser, he
has been induced to enlarge it, by planting land which, in other
circumstances, would not have been so occupied. But it may be
remarked, that there is no profit in planting land with fruit trees
which would yield a rent of L. 2, L. 3, or L. 4 per acre. The soil
of many of the orchards is naturally a stiff clay, and the most thriv-
ing trees and the finest fruit is in general to be found on the poor-
est land, provided due attention has been paid to the cultivation of
the orchard.
In this parish, there are from forty-five to fifty acres in orchards,
which in some former years produced nearly L. 900, but which can-
not now be rated above half that sum, though the quantity of fruit
produced may be five or six times greater. The average is now four
bolls per acre, at L. 2, 10s. per boll. The value of the orchards
has of late years greatly decreased. This is owing to the ease
with which foreign fruit is now imported, — to the facility afforded
by steam-boats for the transmission of all kinds of produce from
England and Ireland, particularly the latter, — to the indifference
of many with regard to the quality of the fruit used, — if not also in
some degree to the decay of patriotic feeling.
There is no situation on the Clyde more favourable for the cul-
tivation of orchards than this parish, — very few spots, indeed, equal.
The soil and subsoil and climate are suitable. Large fruit of all
kinds thrives well here, which is not the case in all the orchards on
the Clyde. Consequently, without any desire to disparage others,
there is not better fruit to be found in any part of the district, or
which is more sought after> by those who have ascertained its va-
lue. This excellence, I apprehend, is greatly owing to the nature
of the soil, for it is a fact well established, that all kinds of crops
grown upon a clay soil, and in a favourable situation, and in a good
season, are superior in flavour to those produced on other soils, whe-
ther what is called dry-field or haugh-land. The ground is more
difficult to cultivate ; but when a crop has been obtained, though
inferior to that of other land in quantity, it surpasses it in quality.
The Horticultural Society, who have encouraged competition for
the largest vegetables and fruits, ought also to test the above fact ;
DALZIEL. 459
and to do justice to the inquiry, they ought to try the fruits in all
the different ways in which they are used.
In the spring, when a cold east wind prevails, and a long drought,
the caterpillar often does extensive damage to the orchards in
Clydesdale, particularly to those situated in the upper ward of the
county. Those in this parish are never injured by that destruc-
tive insect. This perhaps is partly owing to their being sheltered
from the east by rising ground, and by extensive woods, and in no
small degree, I apprehend, to the nature of the soil, for it is always
observed, that those orchards where the soil is light are the first
attacked, and suffer most severely. Various are the expedients
which have been tried to destroy this insect ; but the only effec-
tual mode yet discovered for checking the ravages of the cater-
pillar is regular cultivation, and carefully picking them off the
bushes and trees so soon as they appear, in so far as that may be
practicable.
Kinds of Fruit. — Gooseberries and currants are cultivated in
some parts of the orchards, chiefly as an under crop, but not to a
great extent, the nature of the soil here not being favourable to
their growth. The kinds of fruit chiefly propagated are apples,
pears, and plumbs. These are very numerous, in regard to kinds ;
some of them late and others early. To mention the names of all
\is unnecessary, as the same kinds have received different names in
different parts of the country. The kinds propagated in greatest
numbers are those which are esteemed the best in quality, or in
greatest demand in the market. With a few exceptions, large
baking apples are now found to be most valuable. The plumbs
grown are either common, i. e. are propagated from the sucker, and
are planted about two feet from the hedges, inclosing the orchards, '
or they are grafted ones, such as are usually grown on garden
walls. There are magnums and Orleans here as standards, fifty
years old, which, when planted by the writer's father, were only
known in this country as wall fruit. It was therefore viewed by
gardeners as quite chimerical to try them as standards ; but the re-
sult was so favourable, that for many years, they have been plant-
ed in the same way in the Clydesdale orchards.*
" The following is a list of those propagated and approved.
Early eating apples : Milford, Tarn Montgomery, Early Almond, Thoil pippin,
Dumbarton — Harvest apples : Wheeler's russet, Orange or Holland pippin, Friars'
pippin, Dalzell manse codlin, Silver Saturday, Red Colville, autumn do — Winter eat-
ing apples : Hamilton pippin, Dunside or Orbiston, Hibston, Canmethan pippin,
Liddington, Lemon pippin, Winter Holland pippin, Egg apple, £c. Baking apples :
Yorkshire green, Early and Late Fulwood, Carse of Cowrie, Norfolk beafon, Dutch
460 LANARKSHIRE.
It has been justly remarked, that apples and pears, particularly
the former, after a certain time, degenerate. This has been veri-
fied here, and particularly in regard to what used to be the best
Scotch apple for winter eating, the grey Liddington, which, fifty
years ago, were produced 'here in great quantities, of great size
and excellence.
Mode of Planting. — Some of the old orchards, particularly on
sloping banks, have been planted without much regard to regula-
rity, and consequently the trees are in many places too close to
each other. But the method which has been generally adopted
for nearly a century is the following : When a piece of ground is
designed for an orchard, the distance between the rows is marked
off, viz. 22 feet. Then a small border, about 4 feet broad, is dug
deep, but not trenched, when the trees are intended to be planted,
(with water runs on each side of it, and which are kept clear) and
which is enlarged as they increase in size, till the intervening space
is equally divided between the rows. The trees are planted as
near the surface as practicable, to keep the roots up and dry.
About two inches are pared off the top of the delf, where the tree
is to be planted. It is then placed in the centre of that spot, the
roots being carefully spread out with the hands, — and unhealthy
ones, or those likely to interfere with others, being previously cut
off. A person holds the tree steadily in its position, while another
puts the earth around it, treading it with his foot. After the roots
have been sufficiently covered with earth, a quantity of dung, not
too old, is placed around the tree, and which is covered with earth.
The use of this is to prevent the drought from injuring the roots,
to keep them moist; and when ram falls, it acts most favourably
towards the growth of the plant.
The trees are planted from 18 to 22 feet wide in the row. When
the latter distance is adopted, early bearers, or gooseberries, are
planted between those trees which are intended to stand, and
which are taken out as they expand. A decided preference is giv-
en to plants of one year's growth, provided the graft be well sprung;
those older than two years are not approved of. If of one year, the tree
is cut over the first year it is planted, but if of two, it is not done
codlin, Early and winter strawberry, Red cluster — Early pears : Crawford, Green pear
of Pinkie, Green chisel, Lady Lemon — Harvest pears : Brown beyry, Fair maid of
Taunton, Early Auchen, Grey honey, Autumn bergamot, &c. — Winter pears: Aucben,
Moor fowl egg, Winter bergamot — Grafted plumbs: Magnum bonum, Orleans, green
gage, Red imperial, Precox de Tour — Common plumbs : Burnet, Whitcorn, Horse-
jag, Common damson, &c. These are a few of the best kinds, and best bearers.
There are probably 200 different kinds. Bad sometimes bear when others fail.
DALZIEL. 461
till the second. The use of cutting is to make the roots strike,
and the tree branch out. The young trees are protected from the
hares, sometimes by placing broom around them ; but now most
generally, by smearing them with a mixture of lime and cow dung,
or by covering them with a straw rope, which is taken off during
summer. Trees of all ages are grafted if healthy, when they have
turned out bad kinds, bad bearers, or not in repute ; and the graft is
put between the bark and the wood. When the branch on which
the graft is put is a thick one, one is put on each side of it, and the
one which has thriven best, is preserved, while the other is taken
away, unless it be likely to grow in a preferable direction.*
There is no anxiety felt here, to have what is called a handsome
tree, having a tall stem, before being allowed to branch out. The
great object is to have one that will bear a great quantity of fruit.
The trunk is seldom above three feet from the ground, sometimes
less. And another advantage resulting from this is, that the wind
is not so apt to overturn the tree, and to blow down the fruit. In
exposed situations, the young tree is sometimes kept in its position
by means of a straw rope attached to a stob or two. There is
little of the fruit on walls, except on houses, and in Dalziel garden.
Consequently, it is not generally so large, but the quantity is great-
er, and is considered superior in quality.
The age to which a tree grows, depends on the"soil,]the quality
of the stock on which the graft has been put, and the regular cul-
tivation given. Many of the apple trees in the orchards here are
150 years old, pears much older. When an old tree dies out, care
is taken to plant one o£ a different kind from the former, i. e. to
put a pear where an apple has been, and an apple in the place of
a pear. The principal orchards on the estate of Dalziel were
planted by the great-grandfather of the present proprietor, who
was quite an enthusiast in growing trees of all kinds, and who
could not endure to see any of them cut down or destroyed.
Pruning. — Care is taken, while the tree is young, to train the
branches, so as to make them spread out on all sides, to cut off
those which are likely to encroach on others, and as much as pos-
sible to keep the tree open in the heart. From the older ones, rot-
ten branches are lopped off, and also those which are hurting others,
which, if suffered to remain, tend to injure the tree. From the
great number of the trees, however, and the time required in do-
* As the wind is apt to broak the graft (when the branch is a thick one,) a piece
of stick is fixed to the branch with bass or mat-straw, to which the graft is slightly
attached.
462 LANARKSHIRE.
ing it, this operation is not so regularly attended to as it ought to
be. When a branch is taken off, either with the knife or with the
saw, it is cut close to the trunk ; if large, it is cut in sections, and
the wound is carefully smoothed over with the knife, and the bark
around it, and then rubbed with a little earth. In the course of a
few years, if the tree is not old, the bark covers the wound, so that
it becomes imperceptible. Dr Lyon's plan of taking off the out-
er bark was tried by the late Mr Hamilton to a considerable ex-
tent ; but, except in the case of canker, it has not been productive
of any advantage. The trees are pruned during the winter or
spring, when the weather is fresh. In a few instances, this has been
done in June and July, when the tree has not been under crop, and
has been found to answer well.
Cultivation. — Strangers, in observing the prices obtained for
fruit upon the Clyde, are apt to conclude that the whole is profit.
But it holds with regard to fruit, as well as every other kind of
crop, that unless due care be bestowed in cultivating the orchard, no
return can be expected. Forest trees grow without cultivation, but
not fruit ones, except in some rich holms, where straggling ones
have been planted, by way of ornamenting a gentleman's policy.
Orchards if neglected in regard to culture soon die out, and any
fruit they produce is small and destitute of flavour. Lime is found
of great service, especially so here, where the soil is a strong clay,
and seems to have the same effect that it has in regard to other
crops.
When the orchard is large the ground is taken in rotation. Po-
tatoes are planted occasionally while the trees are young, or
when the ground requires to be cleaned. The rotation of crops
usually followed is, first, potatoes or tares ; second, barley or tares ;
third, hay; seldom more than one crop of hay is taken, under wise
management, and it is generally cut before the seed ripens. When
laid down with hay, a quantity of dung is put to the roots, near the
trunk, when it can be obtained, — which, when the ground is a slop-
ing bank, is laid chiefly on the upper side of the tree. In regard
to manuring, the same rule is followed as in regard to other land
designed for crop.*
Mode of selling. — The fruit is, with few exceptions, sold by auc-
tion to the highest offerer, on producing bill and caution to the
satisfaction of the exposer and judge ; or he is allowed a reasonable
deduction for ready money. Should any dispute arise in connec-
* The common rate for digging is fourpence per fall.
DALZIEL. 463
tion with the sale, it is settled by the judge, whose decision is final
and binding on all concerned. The fruit is sold, some time in
the month of August, sooner or later, according to the season.
A few days previous to the sale, the intending purchasers inspect
the orchards, in order to ascertain the kinds and the quantity, and,
after a little experience, are able to estimate them with astonish-
ing accuracy. The purchaser is allowed housing for keeping his
fruit, and a place for preparing his victuals and lodging the watch-
man of his fruit ; he is also furnished with hay for his horse, and
straw for packing his fruit, or receives a deduction for that pur-
pose ; a few potatoes and a cart or two of coals are also sometimes
given him. After sale, the purchaser has the fruit entirely at his
own risk. The disposer generally reserves in the articles of roup
not particular trees, but such a quantity of fruit, and of such kinds
as he may require for family use.
The fruit, about a century ago, were taken down by a person
shaking the tree, and others gathering them up ; but for many
years, in so far as practicable, they have been pulled and handled
with great care. When carried to market, they are packed in
hampers and baskets of different sizes, which are placed on an
open cart without sides, (not upon springs) with straw put under
them. They are then firmly roped together and to the cart, and
are covered with straw, and with a mat such as is used by carriers.
The principal market for fruit is Glasgow. The merchant starts
for that place generally about 12 p. M. to be in time for the mar-
ket, which opens at 5 o'clock A. M., sometimes earlier. He also
disposes of many in the towns and villages around. Occasionally,
in harvest, he visits Edinburgh ; but most frequently when the
winter commences. The fruit was, till lately, sold and reckoned
by the sleek and boll. A sleek is of the size of a 20 pint cask,
and 20 sleeks make a boll, — a sleek of apples consists of 40 Ibs.,
of pears 50 do., and of plumbs 60 do. Since the alteration of the
measures, they have been sold by the bushel, which is equal to
one sleek one forpit.
The fruit-merchants are generally home wood merchants or in-
dustrious labourers who have realized some means. The occupa-
tion is a laborious one, but it is of short duration, and one of
which they are peculiarly fond. If once they have engaged in it,
they seldom relinquish the employment, however much they may
be otherwise occupied. An old man died lately, who had been
more than seventy years in the trade, who, though he never moved
464 LANARKSHIRE.
from his house during the rest of the year, seemed to revive when
the time of purchasing the fruit came round, and discovered an
enthusiasm and activity which astonished all who saw him.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Means of Communication. — Hamilton is the nearest market-town
to this parish, where there is a post-office and weekly market.
There are two runners from that place, who pass and repass
through the parish daily, the one to the post-office in Holy town,
and the other to Wishawtown. A coach to Edinburgh from
Hamilton runs through this parish, three times a-week. The road
from Glasgow to Lanark by Carluke is, in this parish, about four
miles in length, and that from Hamilton to Edinburgh is about
one.
Ecclesiastical Slate and History. — The church at Dalziel, with
its tithes and other property, was granted to the abbots and monks
of Paisley, in the twelfth century, and was dedicated to St Patrick.
It was confirmed to them by the Bishops of Glasgow, Jocelin and
Florence, by a bull of Pope Innocent in 1209, and by one of his
successors, Pope Honorius. It was afterwards given to the Dean
and Chapter of Glasgow, and continued in their possession till the
Reformation. The revenue consisted of 10 merks, and 60 bolls of
oatmeal yearly. The cure was served by a vicar probationer,
who had a settled allowance out of the revenue. The remainder
was shared by ten vicars, serving for the canons in the choir of
the cathedral of Glasgow. The stipend to the vicar serving the
cure must consequently have been very small.*
After the Reformation, the patronage and tithes of this parish
were given by Queen Mary to the College of Glasgow. It ap-
pears, however, that the Crown in these days was not scrupulous
in making grants of the same subject to different parties. Sir Ro-
bert Dalzell had also obtained from this Queen, a grant of the
patronage and tithes. The consequence was, as I have found from
papers in the library of the college, a long litigation between those
* This accounts for an awkward mistake into which the incumbent fell, upon one
occasion, as traditionally recorded in the parish. Owing to the meagre endowment
allowed him, he was under the necessity of bettering his circumstances by having re-
course to secular employment, and the occupation he followed was the very humble
one of making skulls, i. e. open baskets with a handle on each side, made of unpeeled
wands ; of these he made one daily. But it unfortunately happened on one occasion
that he was found making one of his baskets upon the Sabbath. Persons expressed
their astonishment to find him so occupied on such a day ; but he would not believe
that it was the Sabbath till he counted his skulls, when he discovered his misdemea-
nour. This circumstance gave rise to a proverb, formerly more prevalent in the pa-
rish and district than now, when a person expressed doubts, or appeared ignorant with
regard to the number of any articles in his possession, " count your skulls."
DALZIEL. 465
parties before the Court of Session. The result was, that the right
of the college was found preferable, and decreet was given accord-
ingly in their favour, dated 19th June 1581. They got and con-
tinued in possession, till the beginning of the seventeenth cen-
tury, as appears from inhibitions at their instance, against the
heritors, from a process of augmentation raised against them and
Sir Robert Dalziel, as tacksman of teinds, by the minister, and
from Mr Hamilton's account of the sheriffdom of Lanark in 1702.
How it passed out of their hands I have been unable to ascertain.
The Hamiltons of Dalziel have been long patrons and titulars of
the parish.
The old church of Dalziel was a plain Gothic building, having
the font for holy water, and the gorgets attached to it, used in
punishing civil and ecclesiastical offenders, and was considered to be
contemporary with the cathedral of Glasgow. It was taken down
in the year 1798, and the stones used in building an addition to
the old manse. This is deeply to be regretted, as the walls were
found to be so strong, that the mason declared he would sooner
have quarried the stones than taken them down. It might have
been retained as a monument of antiquity, and used as a burying-
place. The present church was built in the year 1789, is most
conveniently situated, and affords accommodation to 370 persons.
It is in the form of a cross, having only one gallery above the aisle,
in front of the pulpit ; but two additional ones are about to be erect-
ed, which will increase the number of sittings to 514. The seats
are all unlet, and are allocated among the heritors, tenants, and
feuars. *
The present manse was built in 1827, and is a most suitable
and convenient one. The old manse, which was taken down in the
following year, originally consisted of only a room and kitchen,
but had several additions afterwards made to it. The glebe con-
sists of 7 acres of good land ; nearly 5J acres are in orchard ; and
the average yearly value of the whole is L. 60 ; stipend, L. 150
per annum, consists of 47 bolls,.! firlot, 2f pecks, oatmeal; 7 bolls,
* Church music — This was, about fifty-five years ago, in a very low state in this pa-
rish,— so much so, that it became proverbial in the neighbouring parishes, when a
child cried, to style it Dalziel Ps ins, a reproachful expression now almost disus-
ed. In this state, the writer's father found it, when he became assistant and succes-
sor in 17^7- Understanding music himself, and delighting in having that part of the
church service properly conducted, he got masters to teach the young connected with
the church, and then drilled them himself, by meeting with them in the church once
a week. The consequence of this training was, that, from being one of the worst sing-
ing congregations in the district, they became the very best, — the admiration of all
strangers, and a model for the imitation of their neighbours. The taste for church music
in the parish from that date, has never died out, but is still lively.
466 LANARKSHIRE.
1 firlot, | peck of bear, and L. 14, 8s. Id. paid by the heritors, and
L. 96, 3s. 4d. by the Exchequer. No dissenting place of worship
in the parish. Number of persons of all ages belonging to the
Established church, 717 : do. to other denominations, 513; do. at-
tending Established Church, 360 ; do. attending dissenting places
of worship, 316 ; communicants in Established Church, 175.
Established Church in summer well attended, not so well in win-
ter, owing to its being one of the coldest perhaps in Scotland.
There are occasional collections for religious purposes.
Education. — There are three schools in the parish, one paro-
chial, and the schoolmaster has the maximum salary, with rather
more than the legal allowance of land as a garden. Fees from
scholars about L. 20. He is required to teach Latin, Greek, En-
glish grammar, English writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, and
practical mathematics. The other two schools are supported by
the school fees ; one of the teachers has a school-house rent free,
and about L. 40 a year from fees ; and in the other school, taught
by a woman, sewing as well as reading is taught. The school fees
are, for English, 2s. 6d.; for English grammar and writing, 3s. ;
arithmetic and book-keeping, 4s ; Latin, 5s. About, on an ave-
rage, 145 children attend these schools, 30 of which attend the
one taught by a woman. The children of the parish are all taught
to read, and a good many to write. The people in general are
alive to the advantages of education.
Societies, fyc. — There is a funeral society for the parish and neigh-
bourhood ; it was instituted in 1827, to aid persons in defraying the
expenses occasioned by the death of any member of the family.
The entry money is allowed to accumulate as stock. L. 3 Sterling
are given for funeral charges, on the death of any member of the
society ; for children five years and under, L. 1 ; and above that age,
at the rate of Is. 6d. every succeeding year till they reach eighteen,
— when they must either become a member, or forfeit all right to the
benefit of the society. The entry money for unmarried persons, male
or female, is Is.; for a husband or wife, with or without children,
a widower or widow having children, 2s. The allowance exigible
is paid by the members proportionally. The regulations of the
society are conform to the Friendly Society Act, 10 Geo. IV. cap.
56, and have been regularly sanctioned. There is no other friend-
ly society regularly constituted ; but for eight years past, a number
of persons have been in the practice of aiding one another, when
unable to work, by a contribution of one penny a week from each
DALZIEL. 467
individual. There was a savings' bank in the parish, but owing to
the depressed state of trade and other causes, it has been shut for
some time.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — Average number receiving paro-
chial aid, 14 ; average allowance to each, 6s. ; average amount of
collections at the church, L. 16, 10s. ; from mortcloths, L. 2, 5s,
The poor were supported entirely by the weekly collections at
the church, (towards which the Dalziel family contributed liberal-
ly) by collections at marriages, and by money arising from mortcloths,
till the year 1831, when we were under the necessity of having re-
course to a legal assessment, the average amount of which yearly
is L. 50. This has had the effect here, as I believe everywhere,
of diminishing that feeling of independence and reluctance to ask
or to receive parochial aid, which was formerly so characteristic of
the people of Scotland.
Inns, §-c. — There are four public-houses in the parish, which
have a most injurious effect upon the morals of the people, and
in increasing poverty and disease. Licenses are too easily ob-
tained, and no care is taken here to grant no more than what are
absolutely required. There is no police as in cities, to maintain
and enforce regularity upon the keepers of such houses. The sub-
ject calls loudly for the serious attention of the Legislature, and
of all who are concerned for the best interests of their country.
Fuel. — The fuel used by the people is coal, which is wrought in
the parish, and most conveniently situated for the inhabitants. It
is driven by horses or donkeys. Price per ton, 2s. 6d. at the hill.
The donkey carts, of which there are now five so employed in
the parish, are of great service to the people; sixteen carts, some-
times more, are allowed by the proprietor annually to the poor, —
which prove a great benefit to the ordinary poor, and to such as
may be receiving occasional aid from the parochial funds.
Villages. — There are three villages in the parish, viz. Motherwell,
(in the old charters Moderville,) lying near the well of our Lady,
from which the inhabitants are in part supplied with water. It con-
tains about one-half of the population of the parish. Windmill-
hill is close to the church, and Craigneuk half a-mile to the east.
The intended Wishaw and Coltness railway will intersect this pa-
rish to the extent of three miles.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Considerable changes have taken place in this parish since the
last Account was published. The population has more than
468 LANARKSHIRE.
doubled, the farms have been made larger, and are now only the
half of what they were formerly, in regard to number. The land has
been improved, and some wastelands have been brought into cultiva-
tion, or planted with wood. It must, however, be admitted that there
is great room for farther improvement. Draining in many places
is much wanted, the hedges require more attention than they have
hitherto received. The plan adopted by Sir James Steuart of
Coltness, of the landlord employing persons for that purpose, seems
,the only one likely to ensure good fences.
Lime is much wanted for the land in this parish. It is at such
a distance, (the best, eight and ten miles,) that there is not much
of it driven. But should the Wishaw and Coltness railway be car-
ried forward, of which there is now a fair prospect, lime and ma-
nure of all kinds will be rendered more accessible, or rather more
easily obtained.
June 1836.
PARISH OF STONEHOUSE.
PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. HUGH DEWAR, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name and Boundaries. — THE name of the parish is of doubtful
origin, — some deriving it from the mansion-house of the laird of
Stonehouse, which, in former times, stood at no great distance
from the site of the present village, and in those days was the only
house in the parish which was built with stone and lime ; the rest
being only mud cottages, or at best but built of layers of stone
and turf alternately. I find, in some very old records, the parish
is called the Stannaus ; and by many people in the neighbouring
parishes it is still called the Stanis or Stenis.
The extreme length of the parish may be about 6 English miles,
its breadth 3 miles at an average. It is bounded on the south, by
the water of Kype, which separates it from the parish of Avondale ;
and for a considerable way on the west side, it is washed by the river
Avon, which separates it partly from the parish of Avondale> and
partly from the parish of Glasford ; and which river intersects the
parish near the centre, where it is narrowest, and then continues to
STONEHOUSE. 4o"9
bound it on the other side, from the parish of Dalserf, to its ut-
most extremity on the north. On the east, it is divided from the
parishes of Dalserf and Lesmahagow, by the Gander water, which
joins the Avon at the point where that river intersects the parish.
Topographical Appearances* — The whole parish presents an
uniform appearance. There are no hills in it, but from its utmost
extremity on the south, there is a gentle and gradual descent to-
wards the centre, — from whence it again gradually ascends towards
the north ; but the rise is not so great as to the south. The land
is all arable, and the soil in general good, and in many places not
yielding in richness and fertility to the best land in the county ;
particularly the land in the vicinity of the town, which is let upon
a lease of twelve years, from L. 4 to L. 6 and L. 7, and upwards,
per acre. The general appearance of the parish, within these
twenty or thirty years, has undergone an entire change. Before that
period there were few plantations to beautify and shelter the land ;
now, there are everywhere springing up fine thriving planta-
tions of Scotch fir, larch, elm, ash, and other forest trees ; chiefly
upon the lands of Robert Lockhart, Esq. of Castlehill, the princi-
pal heritor ; and also upon the lands of many of the smaller pro-
prietors. However, before the period alluded to, there existed
upon the estate of Spittal, some belts of very fine Scotch fir, very
tall and full-grown, and fit for almost all the purposes of the car-
penter ; but most of them, previous to, and since that time, have
been cut down ; and only a remnant of them remains, — together with
some beautiful oaks, elms, limes, and ashes of considerable magni-
tude and age, on the avenue leading to the Spittal House, and about
the garden. The village of Stonehouse, also, was formerly adorn-
ed with plane trees of immense size, which towered aloft on all
sides of it ; but these too have shared the fate of all sublunary ob-
jects,— the last remnant of them, so late as last summer, falling be-
fore the axe, to make room for the habitations of man. There are
still, around the manse and church-yard, a few planes of great mag-
nitude and beauty.
Draining has lately been introduced into the parish, and has
contributed not a little to change the aspect of the country, free-
ing it entirely from those unsightly woods of rushes, and other
aquatic plants, that thrive so luxuriantly in wet marshy soils, and
neglected fields ; so that, where the eye formerly wandered over al-
most a desolate wilderness, it is now charmed and delighted, with
the view of green verdant fields, and waving crops of yellow~grain.
LANARK. H h
470 LANARKSHIRE.
There is only one moss of any considerable extent in the parish,
called the Hazeldean moss ; and which of late years has been all
drained and brought into a state of high cultivation, by the spirit-
ed and enterprising proprietor, Mr William Smellie of Burn. This
moss, though formerly not worth Is. per acre, is now yielding im-
mense crops of potatoes, oats, barley, wheat, rye, clover, and rye-
grass.
Climate. — The parish of Stonehouse being in the very centre of
the narrowest part of the island, equidistant alike from the sea on
the east and west, partakes of all the variety of weather incident
to places so situated. Most of the heavy rains and winds are
from the west and south-west ; the most prevalent, however, is the
west, which sweeping over the vast Atlantic Ocean, often brings
along with it vast collections of clouds and vapours, which pour
themselves down in heavy drenching rains from the western shore,
till they reach considerably beyond the centre of the island before
they are exhausted.
Geology. — The parish abounds with freestone, and in some
places, with a kind of rotten trap or whinstone, excellently fitted for
the making of roads. There is also abundance of lime of the best
quality. Ironstone is found in thin beds above the lime, but mostly
in round detached masses, of a very superior quality. Coal is al-
so abundant, though not wrought at present, but for the purpose
of lime-burning. In the fissures occasionally found in the lime
beds, there are beautiful specimens of mica, delightfully bedropped
on the surface with shining globular particles of a bright yellow
substance, like the diamonds found in some slates. There are
also found, in these fissures, pieces of a jet black substance, not
unlike, and possessing in some degree, the softness and elasti-
city of the Indian rubber ; which easily ignites, and burns with a
bright flame, and entirely consumes, leaving little or no residuum.
Hydrography. — There are no lakes in the parish. There former-
ly existed, at a place called Gozlington, a pretty large marsh, the
resort of wild geese, ducks, and other water-fowls ; but now the
water being all drained off, it is converted into excellent meadow
ground. The only river that runs through the parish is the Avon,
which has its source on the confines of Ayrshire, — whence it takes
an easterly direction, flowing through the parishes of Strathaven,
Glasford, and Stonehouse, where, after being joined by the Kype,
Gander water, and other small streams, it turns to the north, pas-
sing through the parishes of Dalserf and Hamilton, and falls into
STONEHOUSE. 4? 1
the Clyde, about a mile to the east of the town of Hamilton.
It is reckoned one of the best trouting streams in Scotland. In
the proper season for fishing, multitudes of people from the sur-
rounding towns and villages are seen busily plying on its banks.
Salmon also used to be very plentiful in the Avon, in the proper
season ; but about twenty years ago, the mill-dam at Millheugh
having been greatly raised in order to procure a greater supply of
water, few or none can overleap it; and it is now a rare occurrence
to hear of or see a salmon in Stonehouse. The banks of the Avon
are exceedingly romantic, and from Stonehouse to Hamilton, an
almost uninterrupted range of rocks overhangs the river on both
sides, the summits of which are generally covered with natural
wood of ash, birch, oak, elm, &c. The bed of the river, in many
places, is almost choked up with large masses of rock, which from
time to time in the lapse of centuries have fallen from the superin-
cumbent strata, and obstruct the waters in their passage ; so that,
in the rainy season, when the river is much swollen, the waters
foam, roar, and thunder amongst these huge blocks of stone, in
the most fearful and terrific manner. On the banks of this river,
is a sulphureous mineral well, called the Kittymure-well, much
resorted to in former times by persons afflicted with scrofula, scurvy,
and other cutaneous diseases ; it is still partially resorted to.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Heritors. — The principal heritors or land-owners in the parish
are, Robert Lockhart, Esq. of Castlehill, the proprietor of more
than one-half of the parish ; His Grace the Duke of Hamilton ;
Mr M'Niel of Raploch ; and Mr Rowat of Bonnanhill ; but none
of these have any residence in the parish.
Antiquities. — Under this head may be mentioned the remains
of two old castles, still visible on the banks of the Avon, known by
the names of the Coat or Cat Castle, and Ringsdale Castle, both
built on precipitous rocks overhanging the river ; but, except their
names and ruins, nothing more remains of them, as history and tra-
dition are entirely silent concerning them.
There also existed, at some remote period, a very strong mili-
tary position or encampment, at the junction of the Avon and Can-
der water, still known by the name of the Double Dikes, which com-
prises an extent of betwixt three and four acres of land, surrounded
on all sides by high perpendicular rocks, except at one point where
the two waters approach so near each other, as to leave a space
of not more than 40 or 50 yards from rock to rock ; which narrow
472 LANARKSHIRE.
neck of and is strongly fortified across by three high dikes or
walls, curved like the segment of a circle. In some places these
dikes are still entire, in others considerably broken down ; they are
distant from each other only about 30 feet ; and before the use of
gunpowder, the position must have been almost impregnable.
About two years ago, as the farmer in Westmains of Stonehouse
was removing a cairn of stones from an artificial mount on the banks
of the Avon near Coat Castle, for the purpose of draining, he found,
after removing the stones, a fine rich black mould some yards deep,
which must have been conveyed thither from a considerable dis-
tance, as there is no such rich earth in the vicinity of the place.
It turned out to have been an ancient Roman tumulus. Upon re-
moving all the stones, and coming to the bottom of the cairn, which
was set round and covered with large flat stones, the workmen
found a great many urns, some of them in a fine state of preserva-
tion, ornamented with flowers and other figures elegantly pour-
trayed on them. They seemed to be composed of a light-colour-
ed clay, the colour being nowise changed by the action of fire ;
although, from their hardness and durability, they must have under-
gone the process of burning. They contained pieces of burnt
bones and black ashes, with small bits of half-charred wood. This
tumulus is little more than a mile from the old Roman military
road from Ayr to Edinburgh, which runs through the parish, com-
monly known to the country people by the name of the Deil's
Causey, from some superstitious notion they entertain that the
personage alluded to had a principal hand in paving it.
This road, in some places, is still entire, very rudely paved with
large stones ; in other places, it has been completely erazed by the
country people, for the purposes of draining, building fences, making
roads, &c. There have been other tumuli found in the parish, par-
ticularly one at the upper end of it ; which, some years ago, was
ransacked to the centre, and a number of urns found therein.
Parochial Registers. — There are no parochial records of births
and baptisms much. beyond 100 years. There was one volume or
two previous to the present, said to have been lost some way or
other ; and it is now very difficult to ascertain the number either
of births or deaths in the parish. There is a list of proclamation
of banns kept by the treasurer for the poor; but no register of the
marriages that are actually celebrated. The number of proclama-
tions for the last ten years amounts to 200, making an average of
20 couple yearly.
STONEHOUSE. 473
III. — POPULATION.
The population according to the last census taken in 1831 was
as follows :
Inhabited houses, . . . 412
Families, . . . 412
Houses building, ... 3
Uninhabited, ... 4
All other families, .... 67
Males, .... 1147
Females, . . . . .1182
Total population, 2359
The following trades and occupations carried on in the parish,
at the same time, were,
Blacksmiths, 8 Corn-dealers, - 1
Lime-burners, - 14 Grocers and drapers, - 17
Plasterers, - 2 Millers, - - 2
Masons, - 7 Publicans, - 7
Butchers, . - 3 Boot and shoemakers 12
Carpenters, - 11 Straw bonnet makers 4
Carters, - TO Tailors, - 9
Surgeons, 2 Weavers somewhat above - 400
Coopers, - 1
At the census taken in 1821 the population of the parish was 2038
1831 it was ... 2359
Difference, 321 of increase in the space of ten years.
Number of families in the parish, . . . . . 412
chiefly employed in agriculture, . . 86
trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 262
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The valuation of the parish is
L. 2721 Scots ; but the real rent, I find, cannot be easily ascertain-
ed. The parish is generally supposed to contain upwards of 6000
acres Scotch ; although I believe there was never any actual sur-
vey taken of it, for the purpose of actually ascertaining the fact.
The whole is either under cultivation at present, or has been cul-
tivated at some former period, such as what is commonly called the
Stonehouse moor ; which has for many years been in pasture, and
may consist of 30 or 40 acres, and which probably may pay bet-
ter in grass than under crop.
The common rotation of crops is, 1st, grass ; 2c?, oats ; 3d, pota-
toes or turnip, wheat either after summer fallow, or potatoes, and
some barley. Flax is now very seldom raised in the parish : though
formerly almost every farmer raised a little for family use. The
land is generally all well enclosed, either with stone dikes, or thorn
and beech hedges, and sheltered' with thriving plantations in many
places.
Leases. — Leases of land in most cases are for the term of nine-
teen years : excepting what are called the town lands; that is, — land
474 LANARKSHIRE.
in the vicinity of the village, which is let on a lease of twelve years;
and is usually taken by the inhabitants of the village at a very high
rent.
Manufactures. — There is only one small establishment in the
parish, deserving the name of a manufactory ; it was erected for the
purpose of manufacturing cotton into lamp and candle-wicks ;
and employs but a very few hands. There is no other work
worth mentioning, except a lime-work which is carried on to a con-
siderable extent, all under ground, — together with a small seam of
coal for the purpose of burning it.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Village. — The village of Stonehouse stands near the centre of the
parish, and is a fine, airy, thriving place. The main street is nearly
a mile in length. The houses are mostly one storey, and generally
thatched ; though there are a few substantial, well built two storey
houses and slated. The streets are all macadamized, and kept
very clean and smooth ; and no filth allowed to be thrown on the
streets, or to remain thereon any length of time. The village
is now rapidly advancing both in population and appearance, from
the very liberal encouragement given to feuing and building, by
Mr Lockhart of Castlehill, the proprietor of more than one-half
of the parish, who generally grants leases of 999 years upon pay-
ment of a very moderate feu-duty ; and building is very cheap, as
stones, lime, and other materials are got just at hand. A great
many new buildings are going on at present, chiefly by two build-
ing societies, which have lately been formed, and are now in active
operation. Two new streets are about being opened up, — which,
when finished according to the specified plan, will both greatly
improve the appearance of the place, and also furnish ample ac-
commodation for the increasing population of the village ; for the
want of which, some families have been obliged of late to seek ha-
bitations for themselves elsewhere.
Means of Communication. — The new turnpike road from Edin-
burgh to Ayr passes through the village, and has opened up an
easy communication with the country, both to the east and west,
which formerly was of very difficult access from the want of a turn-
pike road through the parish. By a very high and beautiful bridge
over the Gander water, about half a mile to the east of the village,
on the new line of road already mentioned, the approach to the
village is alike easy from the east and from the west. As the
Edinburgh and Ayr road crosses the great road from Glasgow to
STONEHOUSE. 475
London, about a mile from the village, the communication with
these places is easy and expeditious.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church stands in the centre of
the village, and is a fine, light, handsome, modern building, with
a neat spire, and capable of accommodating with ease above 900 sit-
ters. It is generally well filled. Besides the parish church, there is
also in the village a small dissenting meeting-house belonging to
the United Secession, a good many of the members and supporters
of which are from the neighbouring parishes of Glasford, Dalserf,
and Lesmahagow.
The manse is partly an old building and partly new. The new
was built about twenty years ago ; it is very pleasantly situated on a
very commanding eminence near the Avon, about half a mile from
the village. The glebe consists of about four acres of exceeding-
ly good arable land, and about one acre of pasture, which may be
fairly valued at L. 24 a year. The stipend, as modified 9th De-
cember 1829, is 17 chalders of victual, one-half meal, one-half
barley, with L. 10 for communion elements ; localled stipend, 125
bolls, 3 firlots, 2 pecks, 2} lippies oatmeal; 28 bolls, 3 firlots, 1
peck, | lippies, barley, with L. 121, 15s. 9Jd. in money.
360 families attend the Established Church. About 120 fami-
lies are Dissenters or Seceders.
Education. — There are five schools in the parish, three of them
in the village of Stonehouse, and two in the village of Sandford; at-
tended by about 300 scholars, or about \ of the whole population of
the parish. Four of these schools have no salary attached to them ;
two of them are what are called subscription schools, and the mas-
ters have only a free school-room ; rent is paid for the school-rooms
of the other two. The parochial scholmaster's salary is about L. 28
per annum. His fees may amount to L. 30 per annum, and he has
about L. 13 a-year besides, from other sources.
Fairs. — There are 3 fairs held in the village in the year,
which are styled the Martinmas, May, and July fairs, the dues of
which belong to Mr Lockhart of Castlehill. These fairs are prin-
cipally for black cattle and wool, and are generally well attended.
Poor. — The poor on the list are generally between 20 and
30, and are maintained partly by the collections made at the
church door, and partly by a regular assessment laid upon the parish ;
the one-half paid by the heritors according to their several valua-
tions, and the other half by the tenants according to their respective
rents, and householders according to their means and circumstances.
476 LANARKSHIRE.
None of the poor are either allowed or known to beg, their month-
ly allowance being very liberal, and most of them get their house
rents paid. The amount arising to the poors' fund from church col-
lections was last year L. 13 ; and from legal assessments, L. 168,
The interest of L. 50 is applied to the education of children of the
poor.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Till within these four or five years, it was a novel sight to see
a four-wheeled carriage of any kind pass through the village of
Stonehouse. But since the turnpike road from Ayr to Edinburgh
has been opened, the Edinburgh and Ayr coach passes every
day through the village ; besides a coach from Strathaven to Glas-
gow by Stonehouse twice a-day ; and another which starts every
morning from the Buck's-head Inn, Stonehouse, for Glasgow, and
returns the same day; and all of them generally are well employed.
There is also a regular carrier betwixt Stonehouse and Glasgow,
twice a week. A post-office has likewise been lately established
in the village, so that the inhabitants of the parish and village
of Stonehouse now enjoy many advantages which they formerly
were deprived of, by the peculiar situation of the place.
In a moral and religious point of view, the inhabitants of the
village of Stonehouse (which cotoins a population of nearly 1600
souls) are, with a few exceptions^Kn industrious, sober, and reli-
gious people, nowise addicted to the many vices of the inhabitants
of villages of a similar population throughout the kingdom, — such as
excessive drinking, swearing, and fighting. Quarrelling and fight-
ing are seldom or ever heard of ; and though there are three well
attended fairs held in the village yearly^ yet many of these pass
over without the slightest appearance of quarrel.
The due observance of the Sabbath is likewise a characteristic
mark of the inhabitants of Stonehouse. The hallowing of the Sab-
bath day is here most scrupulously attended to, by all ranks of per-
sons, both in town and parish ; and except in going to and from
church, you will hardly see a person on the street. All public
houses are shut on Sabbath, unless to the traveller for refreshment*
June 1836,
PARISH OF DOUGLAS.
PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. ALEXANDER STEWART, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
.-r- THE name of Douglas is associated in the mind of
every Scotchman with the most splendid periods in the history of
his country. Whether this parish derived its name from the fa-
mily so conspicuous in our ancient annals, or the family its name
from the place, has become lately a matter of dispute. The fa-
vourite tradition, as detailed by Hume of Godscroft, is, that in the
reign of Solvathius, King of Scotland, about the year 767, Do-
nald Bain (i. e. the fair,) took the field against the King. Victory
had nearly declared in favour of the rebel, when a person flew,
with his sons and followers, to the King's aid, and by his activity
and valour routed the forces of Donald, who was himself slain.
The King, thus rescued from imminent danger, inquired to whom
he owed his deliverance, when one of his officers, pointing to the
champion, said, Sholto Dou-glasse, " there is the dark man." In
gratitude for his services, the King gave him a large tract of land,
and the surname of Douglas, which was extended to his domain,
and to the river by which it is traversed.*
Situation and Extent. — The parish of Douglas, comprehending
nearly the whole extent of Douglasdale, occupies the south-western
extremity of Lanarkshire, and is conterminous with the parishes
of Lesmahagow on the north and north-west ; Carmichael and
Wiston on the east ; Roberton and Crawfordjohn on the south-east
and south ; and Muirkirk, in Ayrshire, on the west. It extends
* It appears to afford some confirmation of this tradition, that Sholto is still a kind
of hereditary prcenomen among the various branches of the Douglas family. This
tradition is indignantly rejected by that laborious, able, but dogmatical antiquary,
George Chalmers, who betrays an unbecoming eagerness to detract from the hither-
to undisputed antiquity of the House of Douglas. 'J he origin of the name he re-
fers to the river, tracing it to the Celtic words Du-glas, " the dark blue stream." As
a distinctive appellation, this is not particularly applicable to the Douglas water.
Yet we mean not to quarrel with the etymology, which may perhaps be better war-
ranted by the appearance of the other streams, both in Scotland and England, which
have the same name.
.
478 LANARKSHIRE.
from near the confluence of the Douglas with the Clyde to the
summit of Cairntable, upwards of 12 miles in length, and it varies
from 4 to 7 miles in breadth. Its superficial area contains about
28,004 Scotch acres; of which 38 16 are arable; 22,376 pasture;
1492 wood; and 320 flow-moss : — in imperial measure the super-
ficial contents are 35,318/0 acres; viz. of arable land, 4812T7S ;
pasture, 28,220/5 ; wood, 1881T8n; flow-moss, 403TV
Topographical Appearances. — Although Douglasdale cannot vie
with the clothed luxuriance of some of our lowland districts, or with
the bold and rugged grandeur of our highland scenery, it presents,
along the whole course of the river, an aspect of sweet and unpre-
tending beauty, which contrasts most favourably with the bleak-
ness of the country, through which it is approached on every side.
The river flows through a strath, which widens gradually in its
course towards the Clyde. From this strath the ground slopes on
each side to a considerable elevation, adorned, especially on the
north side, with extensive and beautiful plantations. Around Dou-
glas Castle, there is some fine old wood, chiefly ash and plane trees ;
and plantations of more recent growth, and of great breadth, extend
for several miles above and below. At Douglas Mill, where the
strath opens into wide and fertile holms, nearly surrounded with fine-
ly wooded banks, the scenery is particularly admired. Beyond the
strath, on either side, the ground stretches into extensive moors ;
or swells into hills covered with grass to their summits. On the
west it terminates in Cairntable, which, with its dependent range to
the south, encloses it as with a chain of mountain ramparts. A great
extent of ground has been recently planted by Lord Douglas ; and
as his Lordship is carrying on these plantations on a large scale,
the aspect of the parish will be progressively improving for many
years.
Climate. — The lowest part of the parish, near the Clyde, is
650 feet above the level of the sea, from which it is nearly 40
miles distant in every direction. The climate, of course, is cold ;
and there is scarcely a month in the year when it is altogether se-
cure from frost. In 1821, there occurred on the 2d of July, a
frost so severe, as seriously to injure the potato crop. Douglas
has a large share, too, of the rains from the Atlantic, although
considerably less rain falls here than on the coasts of Renfrew and
Ayr. It is exposed to high winds, particularly from the south-west
and west; which, being confined, as in a funnel, by the high
grounds on each side, sweep down the strath with tremendous vio-
DOUGLAS. 479
Jence. In one of the heavy gales of last winter, about four acres
of plantation were stript completely bare, as by a tornado ; besides,
trees innumerable were blown down in every part of the woods.
The air, however, is pure and salubrious ; the parish is remark-
able for the general health of the inhabitants, many of whom reach
extreme old age. Within the last fourteen years two men have died
at the age of ninety-seven, and some have exceeded ninety.*
Soil, fyc. — In the arable part of the parish, the soil is in general
good, capable of bearing rich crops of any kind of grain. In the
strath, it is mostly a free black mould ; in some places, more light
and gravelly ; and in others, spouty, the undersoil being a cold till.
Clay soil occurs to a considerable extent. Even in the moors there
is a great proportion of deep loam, which, in a more favourable cli-
mate, would amply repay the labours of the agriculturist; and it
has often been remarked that there are few places where the moor
lands are so inviting to the enterprise of the cultivator. Many
parts of the moors, however, are occupied with moss or with morass.
Although the parish may be considered a hilly district, none of
the hills are of great elevation, except Cairntable, which rises to
the height of 1650 feet above the level of the sea. Auchinsaugh
hill is likewise of considerable altitude ; but is more remarkable
as being the spot where the Cameronians met, towards the close of
the seventeenth century, for the renewal of the solemn league and
covenant.
Hydrography. — The only stream of any consequence is the
Douglas, which issues from the foot of Cairntable, about nine
miles above the town, and falls into the Clyde, after a course of six-
teen miles. It receives several tributary rivulets, as the Monks,
Pidourin, and Poniel waters on the left bank ; the Kennox, Gles-
pin, Parkhead, and Craigburn waters, on the right. All these
streams formerly abounded with trout ; but they have been of late
years so much poached with set lines, nets, and every other means
of destruction, that they now afford but indifferent sport to the an-
gler.
Mineralogy. — This parish abounds in mineral wealth. It has
* Longevity appears hereditary in some families, an ancestor of one of whom,
named M'Quhat, toward the beginning of last century, died at the advanced age of
110, having lived during part of three centuries. There are at present in the pa-
rish two couples, who have been united for fifty-seven years, who were married on
the same day, and whose aggregate ages amount to upwards of 312 years, One of the
husbands, now upwards of eighty, has been fourteen years in the service of the present
minister, and is still so active, that he can walk, without difficulty, from twenty to
thirty miles a-day.
480 LANARKSHIRE.
rich seams of excellent coal, which will be inexhaustible for many
centuries. These seams stretch in a direction nearly parallel to
the course of the river. They are from 2 to 7 feet thick, and
vary considerably in their decline. At the eastern extremity of
the parish, the decline is about 1 of 3; half a-mile westward, 1
of 2; and a little farther to the westward 1 of 1-J. They are in-
tersected with numberless slips, which throw the coal down from
30 to 50 feet perpendicular. These slips lie nearly parallel, and
are generally from 60 to 200 yards apart. They cross the line
of the coal, in a direction nearly west. As the country to the
south and east is destitute, for a considerable extent, of this precious
mineral, the coal of Douglas is in great demand, and a great quan-
tity of it is carried to a distance of upwards of thirty miles. Lime-
stone is wrought in several parts of the parish, particularly at
Wishaw, near its south-eastern border. Freestone likewise abounds,
some of it of a beautiful white colour, well adapted for building.
Ironstone is frequent ; and there are several springs in the parish
pretty strongly chalybeate.
Zoology. — Among the wild quadrupeds found in this parish
may be mentioned the fox, of which there are considerable numbers
in the plantations, the polecat, which, however, is but rare, the
weasel, the hedgehog, and the squirrel ; hares are very numerous.
Of the smaller birds there is a great variety in the woods. The
most common species are, the blackbird, thrush, skylark, chaffinch,
linnet, sparrow ; the yellow-hammer, the wagtail, the robin, wren,
and titmouse are not uncommon, and the goldfinch is occasion-
ally seen. Swallows abound, starlings sometimes appear. In
winter we are visited by flocks of fieldfares. Lapwings and
curlews abound in the moors; wild ducks and coots are very
numerous, particularly on the lake in the pleasure grounds of
the castle ; hawks, chiefly of the smaller kinds, sometimes venture
to make iheir appearance, in spite of the vigilance with which they
are persecuted by the gamekeepers ; but the magpie is almost
completely banished, although abounding in the adjoining parishes.
There is great variety and abundance of feathered game ; grouse,
black-cock, snipes, woodcock, partridges, and pheasants. Perch,
pike, and trout are the only fish which our waters afford to the
angler. The Falls of Clyde effectually prevent salmon from finding
their way to our streams.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Douglasdale, always interesting from historical associations, has
3
DOUGLAS. 481
lately acquired a classical, though melancholy interest, as being the
scene of the last historical romance of Sir Walter Scott. Before
the appearance of " Castle Dangerous," the illustrious author paid
a visit to the Castle and town of Douglas, — the last places which
he visited, or perhaps intended to visit, with a view to publication,
. — as if it had beep his design to close his splendid and fascinating
illustrations of the historical antiquities of his country with the
brilliant achievements of the Douglas, the friend and assistant of
the Bruce in recovering the Scottish crown, and in rescuing the
kingdom from English domination.
The civil history of a parish distinguished by the residence
of the illustrious house of Douglas must be identified in a great
measure with the most splendid and important portion of the an-
nals of Scotland. Unfortunately it is covered with almost impene-
trable obscurity. Not even tradition has saved from oblivion any
considerable part of the eventful deeds, of which it must often have
been the theatre ; and no minstrelsy exists to aid the researches of
the antiquary. During the long struggle which Scotland had to
maintain for her independence, in consequence of the pretensions
of Edward I. of England and his successors, the castle of Douglas
was so important as a stronghold, and as a key to the western
counties, that it was often the object of violent contention. It
repeatedly fell into the hands of the English, and as often was
wrested from them by its rightful owners. In these fearful con-
flicts, it was more than once destroyed by fire, always rising from
its ashes in greater strength and stateliness. So perilous, indeed, was
its occupation to the English governors, that it was designated the
Castle of Danger. Of the bloody scenes that occurred in the course
of these fierce contentions, the names of some places in the neigh-
bourhood of the castle, as the Bloody Sykes, the Bottomless Mire, &c.
still give significant, though obscure intimation. One of the con-
flicts in which the castle was recovered from Sir John de Walton,
by the good Sir James Douglas, is too memorable to be omitted
here. A fair dame of England, whom Sir Walter Scott calls the
Lady Augusta de Berkely, had promised to her numerous suitors
that she would bestow her hand on the man who should keep pos-
session of the perilous castle of Douglas for a year and a day. Sir
John de Walton, with the consent of Edward I., undertook the
dangerous task ; and after having discharged his duty faithfully
and valiantly for several months, the lady, perhaps impatient -to
put him in possession of the promised reward, sent aletter to recall him,
482 LANARKSHIRE.
declaring that she held his probation accomplished. Having re-
ceived, however, a defiance from Douglas, who threatened, that, in
spite of his utmost vigilance, he should wrest from him the castle
before Palm Sunday, De Walton deemed it a point of honour to
retain it till that day was past. On that very day, Douglas having
mustered a band of faithful followers, while most of the English
garrison were engaged in church, attacked and overpowered them
as they came out; and then hastening to the castle cut down
all that opposed him. Sir John de Walton was slain, and
in his pockets was found his lady's letter, the perusal of which
deeply affected the generous and gallant Douglas. While the
garrison was yet in the church, the slogan, " a Douglas, a Dou-
glas," being prematurely raised, Thomas Dickson of Hazleside,
who was likewise within, watching their movements, thinking that
his young lord was at hand with his armed retinue, drew his sword,
and with only one man to assist him, opposed the English, who now
rushed to the door. Although cut across the middle by an En-
glish sword, Dickson continued his opposition till he fell lifeless
at the threshhold. On these incidents, Sir Walter Scott has found-
ed the tale of his historical novel, " Castle Dangerous"
I have adverted in another place to the frequent meetings of the
Covenanters, which were held in the church of Douglas about the
time of the Revolution in 1688. After many scruples and frequent
and long discussions, it was at length resolved to raise a regiment, in
aid of the Protestant government of William, and in defence of
their principles and rights ; and the Cameronian regiment, now the
26th Regiment of the line, was first mustered on a holm or place
near the town of Douglas, on 29th April 1689, under the com-
mand of the Earl of Angus, eldest son of the Marquis of Douglas,
— William Cleland being Lieutenant- Colonel. This regiment soon
after distinguished itself by its gallant and successful stand against
an army of 4000 Highlanders at Dunkeld.
The following notice of Douglas parish and castle, from the
description of the sheriffdom of Lanark, by William Hamilton of
Wishaw, written in the beginning of the last century, may be in-
teresting to many of our readers. " Douglas parish and barony
and lordship heth very long appertained to the family of Douglas,
and continued with the Earls of Douglas until their fatal for-
feiture, anno 1455; during which time there are many noble and
important actions performed by them, by the lords and earls of
that great family. It was thereafter given to Douglas, Earl of
DOUGLAS. 483
Ano-use, and continued with them until William, Earl of Anguse,
was created Marquis of Douglas, anno 1633; and is now the prin-
cipal seat of the Marquis of Douglas and his family. It is a large
baronie and parish, and ane laick patronage ; and the Marquis is
both titular and patron. He heth there, near to the church, a very
considerable great house, called the Castle of Douglas ; and near
the church is a fine village, called the town of Douglas, long since
erected in a burgh of baronie. It heth ane handsome church, and
many ancient monuments and inscriptions on the old interments
of the Earl of this place."
Family of Douglas. — George Chalmers, (Caledonia, i. 579,) traces
the family of Douglas to Theobald, a Fleming, who, sometime be-
tween the years 1147 and 1160, obtained from Arnold, Abbot of
Kelso, a grant of some lands in Douglasdale. Even according to
his account, they were not long in rising to consequence. Wil-
liam, the son and successor of Theobald, was witness to several char-
ters between the years 1170 and 1190. In the letter addressed
by the Community of Scotland to Edward I. in 1289, we find the
name of William of Douglas among the barons. " But though
the surname and familie of the Douglases," says Hollinshed, " was
in some estimation of nobilitie before those daies, yet the rising
thereof to honour chanced through this James Douglas, the good
Sir James, for, by means of his advancement, others of that lineage
tooke occasion, by their singular manhood and noble prowess, shew-
ed at sundrie times in defence of the realme, to grow to such height
in authority and estimation, that their mighty puissance in main
rents, lands, and great possessions at length was (through suspicion
conceived by the Kings that succeeded) the cause in part of their
ruinous decay." After the forfeiture of the Earls of Douglas in
1455, their possessions were bestowed on the Earl of Angus, by
whose lineal descendants they were occupied till the death of the
Duke of Douglas in 1760. A long plea for the succession then
arose between the Duke of Hamilton and Archibald, son of Sir
John Stewart of Grandtully, by Lady Jane Douglas, sister to the
Duke. To the great joy of Douglasdale, and of the country in ge-
neral, a decision was at length given in favour of the latter. The
title became extinct ; but Mr Douglas was created a peer of the
realm in 1790, by the title of Lord (Baron) Douglas of Douglas.
On the death of this nobleman, in the end of December 1827,
he was succeeded by his eldest son Archibald, the present
Lord Douglas. Distinguished as the ancient Douglases were for
their valour and martial achievements, their descendants of the
484 LANARKSHIRE.
present race are no less eminent for the manly and generous vir-
tues which become their high rank; and few noblemen in the
kingdom can be more deservedly respected and loved as a land-
lord, a superior, or a friend, than the present Lord Douglas.
Eminent Men. — For the eminent men of the house of Douglas,
including almost every male of the race who came to maturity, we
must refer to the records of history. One native of this pa-
rish, distinguished by his literary attainments, was Dr John Black,
late minister of Coylton, in Ayrshire, author of the Life of Tasso,
and of a work replete with learning and ingenuity, entitled Palaico-
Romaica, in which he endeavours to prove, with more ability than
success, that the New Testament was originally written in Latin,
from which our Greek version is merely a translation.
Antiquities. — On the farm of Parishholm, near the skirts of
Cajrntable, there are the traces of a fortress, which was probably
a stronghold of the Douglases, commanding the entrance into the
parish from the west. It was here, in all probability, that the good
Sir James lay with his faithful vassals, when he so often took occa-
sion to surprise the English garrison at the Castle of Douglas. About
a mile and a-half south from Douglas Castle, near the great road
to England, are the vestiges of a fort, bearing the name of Tothorl
Castle. This name appears to be a corruption for Thirl wall Castle;
and it was probably built as an outpost by Sir Richard de Thursle-
wall, or Thirlwall, Lieutenant- Governor of Douglas Castle under
Sir Robert de Clifford. A mound still called Boncastle. within
the great park to the east of the Castle, was probably the site of a
similar post of observation. Several years since, an urn was dug
up near Douglas Castle ; and near the same spot was found a great
collection of bones. The head of a spear and a very massive ring
of pure gold were likewise found in the vicinity.
There is in the possession of Lord Douglas a very ancient sword,
resembling a claymore of the usual size, bearing, amidst a great deal
of flourishing, two hands pointing to a heart, which is placed between
them; the date is 1329, — the year in which Bruce charged the
good Sir James to carry his heart to the Holy Land. Around the
emblem are inscribed the following lines :
" So many guid as of the Dovglas beinge,
Of ane surname was ne'er in Scotland seine
I will ye charge after that I depart
To holy grave, and thair bury my heart ;
Let it remane ever BOTHE TYME AND HOUK
To ye last day I see my Saviour.
I do protest in tyme of all my ringe,
Ye lyk subject had never ony kinge."
DOUGLAS. 485
This precious relic was nearly lost in the civil war of 1745-6,
having been carried from Douglas Castle by some of the followers
of Prince Charles. The Duke of Douglas, however, regained it,
by making great interest with the chiefs of the Stuart party. It
is now at Bothwell Castle.
There are several cairns in different parts of the parish, — one on
the top of Auchensaugh hill, where the Covenant was renewed ;
another on the top of Kirkton hill called the Captain's cairn. On
the farm of Poniel, there was a large cairn, beneath which the pre-
sent tenant found a stone coffin a few years ago, and two other
stone coffins had, some time before, been found on the same farm.
There is likewise a stone coffin in the burying-place of the Inglises
in the parish church-yard.
III. — POPULATION.
Since the publication of the former Statistical Account of this
parish, its population has been progressively increasing. In 1831,
it amounted to 2549; in 1834, it had increased to 2567. It is re-
markable, that during these three years, the population in the coun-
try part of the parish had decreased, while an increase to the
amount of about 90 had taken place in the town. The obvious
cause of the diminution in the country population was, that when the
census was taken in 1831, there were several large families, most of
the members of which had just reached, or were on the verge of
maturity ; and before the number of the population was again taken,
the greater number of these were dispersed. In 1834, the popu-
lation of the town of Douglas was 1343. When the former Sta-
tistical Account was drawn up, it was 684. The population of the
whole parish in 1791, was 1715, so that an increase to the amount
of 852 has taken place within the last forty-four years. The
number of houses occupied is 532, the average proportion of in-
habitants, therefore, is a very small fraction more than 5 to each
house. As but few of the dissenters have the baptism of their
children registered, it is impossible to state precisely the average
number of baptisms in a year ; about 45 are annually registered.
The average number of marriages is 18. A register of burials has
been kept since the beginning of the year 1833. In that year, the
number registered was 46 ; in 1834, the number was 42. In this re-
gister it may be observed, the names of those only are inserted who
were interred in the parish burying-ground. On the other hand,
some of those whose names were registered were brought from
LANARK. I i
486 LANARKSHIRE.
adjoining parishes, so that the register may be supposed to present
a fair average of the deaths in the parish of Douglas.
Number of families, . . ; .v . 528
chiefly employed in agriculture, . . 97
in trade, manufactures, and handicraft, 212
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Rent.— The valued rent of the parish is L. 3989, 3s. 6d. ; the
real rent nearly L. 8450. Of this L. 3816 arises from arable land;
L. 4134 from pasture land ; and about L. 500 from minerals. The
arable land thus averaging L. 1, and the pasture land 3s. 8d. per
Scotch acre; or 15s. lOd. and 2s. lid. per imperial acre. The
land is divided into 60 farms, averaging about L. 140 of yearly
rent ; that of arable farms varying from L. 30 to L. 250, and sheep
farms from L. 100 to L. 500.
Live-stock. — Sheep are here the principal objects of husbandry.
The pasture is excellent ; and the stock, consisting almost entirely
of the black-faced short Scotch breed, is scarcely to be surpassed.
The store-masters, particularly active and intelligent, direct their
most sedulous attention to the means of maintaining the pre-emi-
nence which their stock has long held in the markets. The whole
stock of sheep in the parish is about 15,200. Great attention is
likewise paid to the dairy. The milch cows are generally of the
Ayrshire breed ; about 450 in number ; and the making of cheese
is here as well understood, and perhaps as successfully practised,
as in the most noted dairy districts of the neighbouring county of
Ayr. There are, besides, about 460 black cattle of other descrip-
tions. About 110 work-horses are employed in agriculture; and
the saddle and young horses may be reckoned about 80. Swine
are not kept in flocks here, as in Dumfries-shire ; but they are
very generally reared for home consumption ; and the total num-
ber in the parish may be about 250.
Husbandry. — The danger of early frosts obliges the agriculturists
of this parish to restrict themselves to oats, barley, and bigg or bear,
as their only grain crops. Of these, the produce is generally abun-
dant, and the quality good. For the last three or four years, one
farmer has sown wheat with the most encouraging success ; and
others have been induced to follow his example. The soil is par-
ticularly adapted to potatoes and turnips, of which excellent crops
are raised. The kinds of oats in greatest estimation are the Blains-
ley and early Angus. A boll of Linlithgow measure is the quan-
tity of seed allowed for an acre ; and the produce in favourable
seasons is from eight to ten bolls. Harvest generally commences
DOUGLAS. 487
about the middle of September ; for the last two seasons, it has
been considerably earlier. In the former Statistical Account of
this parish, drawn up by the immediate predecessor of the present
writer, it is said, that the corns are rarely got in sooner than the
end of October, or the first week of November. As they have not
been known for many years to be so late, a considerable improve-
ment must have taken place, either in the seasons or in the mode
of husbandry.
State of Property. — Nine-tenths of the parish belong to Lord
Douglas. The other estates are Carmacoup, belonging to James
Paterson, Esq. resident; Polmunckshead to Samuel J. Douglas,
Esq. ; Springhill, Misses Hamilton, non-resident ; and Crossburn
House, a small property, with a good villa and grounds tastefully
laid out, belonging to James Howison, Esq. M. D. resident.
There are few parishes in Scotland, if any, more fortunate in their
proprietary than Douglas. Lord Douglas, who resides chiefly at
Douglas Castle, takes the greatest interest in the improvements,
not only of the lands in his own natural possession, but in every
part of his estates in this district ; and stimulates the exertions of
his tenantry by the most liberal, yet judicious encouragement. New
and commodious houses and steadings have been recently built on
almost every farm : suitable fences, chiefly of stone, are always
readily granted ; clumps of plantation, each of several acres, have
been set down and enclosed on the store farms, for the protection
of the sheep in the winter storms ; and the face of the country has
thus, within these few years, undergone the most decided improve-
ment. No set of tenantry could be more worthy of such encou-
ragement, or could more gratefully and cordially appreciate it.
In the grounds around the castle, the spirit of improvement has
been, for a number of years, in most active and successful opera-
tion. Bothwell Castle having been, ever since the death of his
first lady, the favourite residence of the late Lord Douglas, the
castle and place here were almost entirely neglected. Fortunate-
ly his son took up his residence, about seventeen years ago, at Dou-
glas Castle, for which he has ever since retained a decided parti-
ality. Under his spirited and tasteful improvements, the place has
assumed a quite different appearance ; and is every year exhibit-
ing new beauties. An unseemly morass of several acres, in the
immediate vicinity of the castle, has been transformed into a large
lake, ornamented with finely wooded islands. Extensive plantations
have been formed in judicious adaptation to the grounds, and ac-
488 LANARKSHIRE.
cordance with the older woods. Roads have been made, and new
lodges built, and great numbers of work-people are constantly em-
ployed in carrying on extensive plans, by which the place is daily
improving in value and in beauty.
Douglas Castle, the Castle Dangerous of Sir Walter Scott, as
before observed, was the object of many a fierce conflict between
the English and its proper lords. The conflagration by which it
was consumed, in the year 1760, was accidental ; and the cele-
brated architect Adam was employed by the Duke to build ano-
ther, on a scale of magnificence adequate to his high rank and am-
ple property. It was to consist of two spacious sides, or wings, and
a front; and had it been completed on its original plan, would
have been one of the most princely edifices in Scotland. Only one
wing, or about two-fifths of the plan, was built before the Duke's
death ; but even in this wing, which was finished by the late Lord
Douglas, there are 52 fire rooms. The dining-room, now used as
a drawing-room, is a very splendid apartment — 40^ feet in length,
25 feet in width, and 18 in height, with a particularly rich and beau-
tiful ceiling. The hanging stair is greatly admired by persons of
taste : the steps are of a freestone, veined and clouded like beau-
tiful marble.
Manufactures. — In the year 1792, a factory for cotton-spinning
and weaving was erected by a company from Glasgow, consisting
of natives of Douglas. The carding was performed by horse power ;
the spinning by hand jennies. It continued in operation for only
a few years, but it was the origin of a connection which still sub-
sists between the manufacturers of Glasgow and the inhabitants
of the village of Douglas, most of whom are employed in hand-
loom weaving. A small carding -mill for wool, which was erected
about the same time on the lands of Carmacoup, is still kept up,
but to no great advantage.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Town. — The town or village of Douglas is a place of con-
siderable antiquity. Its streets, like those of most towns built when
it was necessary to adopt precautions against the sudden incursions
of an enemy, are very narrow. Some of the houses are of a very
antique form. One lane is occupied by a range of houses, still
called the Dungeon, and the thick walls, narrow winding stair-
cases, and small windows, completely correspond with the name,
in attesting the purpose to which it was originally destined. Dou-
glas was, in former times, a place of much greater importance than
DOUGLAS. 489
at present. As a burgh of barony, it possessed a regular ma-
gistracy, to whom the lords of the manor appear to have delegated
some of their most important feudal prerogatives. Among these
was the power of life and death. So late as the year 1675, we
find the bailies compelling two persons, who, under the pretence of
being travelling merchants, had infested the public markets as va-
gabonds, to come under an obligation, " upon condition of their li-
berty forth of the tolbooth of the burgh of Douglas, to depart
furth of said burgh and lordship of Douglas, and never thereafter
to return to the same, nor no place within the bounds and jurisdic-
tion of the Marquis of Douglas, during all the days of their life-
time, under the pain of death, and that immediately to be execute
upon them, without any jury or process of law to be sett or holden
for that effect." The Gallow-hiil, an eminence at a short distance
east from the town, was probably the place to which the unhappy
victims, whom the magistrates doomed to death, were led forth from
the dungeon to execution.
Within the recollection of some old persons yet alive, Douglas
was a place of considerable business. Two or three notaries, or,
as they were called clerks, resided in the town. Its weekly mar-
kets were regularly attended by the farmers for the sale of stock ;
and its numerous fairs were not only attended, as they still are, by
a great concourse of people, but were well supplied with the va-
rious articles of rural traffic. Now, no law practitioner is seen
there but on an occasional visit. Its weekly markets are little more
than nominal ; and neither at them nor the annual fairs is any
kind of stock ever exposed for sale. This decrease of business
has proportionally affected the respectability of the inhabitants,
very few of whom are now above the rank of mechanics or labour-
ers : and it were difficult to find a village of equal population :•<>
destitute of genteel or respectable society.
Roads. — This parish enjoys the advantages of excellent roads.
The great road from Edinburgh to Ayr, by Carnwath, Muirkirk,
and Cumnock, traverses its whole length from east to west ; and
the great London road from Glasgow by Carlisle, one of the finest
in the kingdom, passes through it for about 7 miles from N. W.
to S. E. and S. The road to Ayr is the most direct from the ca-
pital, and is kept in excellent repair ; but as a new road has some
years since been opened through a more populous part of the coun-
try, this is comparatively but little frequented. The late Lord
490 LANARKSHIRE.
Douglas, with the munificence which has always distinguished his
noble line, had 20 miles of the old Glasgow road, and 30 miles
of the road to Ayr, made at his own expense. There are several
parish roads, besides, the expense of which is defrayed by the
statute labour tax, which the householders pay with a grudge,
but which is levied with the most considerate attention to their
circumstances.
Ecclesiastical State. — Besides the Established Church, there is a
small meeting-house, in connection with the United Secession, and
a Cameronian meeting-house at the lower extremity of the parish.
The number of dissenters is not great, and it would have been
much less, had not many been compelled to take seats in the meeting-
house, from the impossibility of procuring accommodation in the
Established Church. Rigside was one of the original seats of the
Cameronians. It was at Douglas that many of the most important
meetings of the Covenanters were held — especially about the time
of the Revolution in 1688, when the propriety of embodying a
regiment of faithful Covenanters for the maintenance of their re-
ligious principles and rights was the momentous subject of deli-
beration. Since that time, there has always been a Cameronian
congregation and minister at Rigside ; but although the congre-
gation is collected from the adjoining parishes to a considerable
distance around, the number of members in communion with that
body was ascertained, a few years ago, not to exceed 20.
The church, although not old, is by much too small for the ac-
commodation of the parishioners. A few years ago, the present mi-
nister was told by the people of the town, that there were 100
heads of families who were desirous of having seats in the church,
and could not procure them. The statement might be exaggerat-
ed ; but it proved, at least, how much the evil was felt. The well-
known liberality of the heritors of the parish affords the best pledge,
that the evil will not be allowed to continue long. Of their libe-
rality and kindness, the present incumbent has had the most grati-
fying experience. In the summer of 1 828, a new manse was built,
after a plan by Mr Gillespie Graham, with a set of offices, which,
for elegance and extent of accommodation, may stand a compari-
son with any similar buildings in the county. An approach to the
manse was made, and a handsome gate built, at the expense of the
heritors ; and the garden was enclosed with a substantial stone
wall, of considerable height, at the expense of the late Lord Doug-
DOUGLAS. 491
las. The glebe is extensive and valuable. The stipend is 16
chalders, in equal proportions of barley and oatmeal; with L. 10
for communion elements.
Monuments. — The former church was of great antiquity. It ap-
pears to have been of considerable extent ; and if we may judge from
what still remains, it must have presented no mean specimen of Go-
thic architecture. A small spire, and the aisle that served as the
burying place of the Douglas family, are still religiously preserved.
The monuments in this aisle, though much defaced, are still much
admired for their sculpture and chisel-work. Mr Edward Blore,
than whom there is no more competent judge, reckoned them among
the most interesting sepulchral antiquities in Scotland ; and Sir
Walter Scott was of opinion that, in their original state, they must
have been not inferior in any respect to the best of the same pe-
riod in Westminster Abbey. These monuments are said to have
been defaced and mutilated by a detachment of Cromwell's troops,
who profaned this sacred edifice by making it a stable for their hor-
ses. But we have unfortunately a less remote cause to which we
may trace much of the mischief; for, during the many years when
Douglas Castle was deserted by the late Lord Douglas as a resi-
dence, the aisle was left open and unprotected ; and the boys of
the place, with the destructive propensity characteristic of the
Scots, made it a favourite amusement to aim with stones at the
figures and chisel-work.
First in importance (although there is one of which the plainer
and ruder workmanship seems to indicate a remoter antiquity,) is
the monument of the good Sir James Douglas, the most valued and
efficient associate of Robert the Bruce, in his efforts to vindicate
the independence of his country, and his own claim to its throne.
The figure is of dark-stone, recumbent as on a couch, and cross
legged, to mark his character as a crusader ; for he had not only, in
compliance with the dying request of his royal friend, undertaken
a pilgrimage to the holy sepulchre for the purpose of depositing Ro-
bert's heart in that sacred place, but had fallen in actual conflict
with the infidels of Spain. The bones of this hero were conveyed
home by his sorrowful comrades, and interred in the church of Dou-
glas ; and the erection of his tomb is expressly ascribed by Barbour,
and other historians nearest that period, to his son Archibald Dou-
glas. *
* " The banys hame with them tanc,
And sync are to thair schippis gane ;
492 LANARKSHIRE.
In the vault is still the case in which the heart of the good Sir
James was enclosed.
On the same side of the aisle, to the east of this tomb, is that
of one of the Dukes of Touraine, the decorations of which are
still more elaborate and elegant, though likewise much broken
down and defaced. On the fragments appear the arms of the en-
tombed, quartered thus : 1st, Touraine ; 2d, Douglas ; 3d, Gal-
loway; 4#z, Annandale; — with the following inscription : "Hicja-
cet Archibaldus Douglas, Dux Toureniae, Comis de Douglas et
Loueville, Dominus Gallovidiae, Wigtoniae, et Annandise, locum
tenens Regis Scotise, obiit 26 die mensis Junii 1438." This was
the son of Archibald Douglas, surnamed Tineman, the first Duke
of Touraine, and Maud Lindesay, daughter of David Earl of Craw-
ford. In a niche on the south side of the aisle, commonly called
St Thomas's aisle, we find the following inscriptions upon a tomb
of particularly fine workmanship, surmounted by two recumbent
figures, exquisitely wrought, representing the Douglas and his
lady ; and having ten figures in basso relievo beneath, in a stand-
ing attitude, representing their children : " Hie jacet magnus et
potens princeps, Dominus Jacobus de Douglas, Dux Tourenise et
Comes de Douglas, Dominus Annandise, Gallovidiae, Liddaliae,
Jedburg Forestiae, et Dominus de Balveniae, magnus Wardanus
regni Scotiae versus Angliam, &c. ; qui obiit 24 die mensis Mar-
tii, anno Domini 1443." This James was brother to the above-
mentioned Archibald, to whose estate and honours he succeeded
after the murder of Archibald's two sons in Edinburgh and Stir-
ling Castles. The inscription for his lady is : " Hie jacet Domina
Beatrix de Sinclair, (filia Domini Henrici Comitis Orcadum, Do-
mini de Sinclair, &c.) Comitissa de Douglas, et Aveniae, Domina
Gallovidiae." On the east side of these is a stone with this inscrip-
tion : " Hae sunt proles inter praedictos Dominum et Dominam,
generatae. Imo9 Dominus Wilhelmus, primogenitus et has res
dicti Domini Jacobi, qui successit ad totam haereditatem praedic-
tam. Jacobus, 2do genitus, Magister de Douglas. Archibaldus,
Syne toward Scotland held thair way,
And thar are cummin in full gret hy.
And the banys honorabilly,
In till the kirk of Douglas war,
Erdyt, with dule and mekill car.
Schyr Archebald his son gert syn
Offalabastre baith fair and fync,
Ordane a tumbe sae richly,
As it behowyt to swa worthy,"
DOUGLAS. 493
3tio genitus, comes Moraviae. Hugo, 4to genitus, comes Ormun-
diae. Joannes, 5to genitus, Dominus de Balveniae. Henricus, 6to
genitus. Margareta, uxor Domini de Dalkeith, Beatrix uxor Domi-
ni Joannis Constabularii Scotiae, * Janeta, uxor Domini de Big-
gar et de Cumbernauld. Elizabeth Douglas, 4ta filia erat."
On the lead coffins in the vault are the following inscriptions : " Gul.
Aug. Dominus ex Jacobo Marchione Douglasiae et Dom. Maria
Kerr, filia Comitis Lothianae conjuge, primogenitus, natus 15 Oct.
1693, obiit 20 Mar. 1694. Maria Gordon filia Georgii primi
Marchionis de Huntly, quam Gulielmus primus Marchio de
Douglas in uxorem secundo dux it, quaeque anno suae aetatis sexa-
gesimo quarto, salutis humanae 1644, mortem obiit. Hie situm
est corpus Gul. Marchionis Douglasiae eo titulo primi, qui ex di-
versis et mutuis thalamis ab Hamiltoniorum et Gordoniorum
gente suam progeniem continuatam, HamiTtoniorum vero instaura-
tam, reliquit. Obiit 11. cal. Mart, anno 1660, aetat. vero 7 1. Margaret
Hamiltown, Angusiae Comitissa, obiit 38 anno aetatis suae, 1 1 Sep-
tembris 1623. Anna Stewarta, due. Lennoxiae et Richmondiae filia,
Archibaldo Angusiae Comiti per xviii. annos nupta, obiit xvi. die
Augusti, anno MDCXLVI. aetat. xxxi. D. O. M. Hie positum
est corpus Margaretae, filiae primogenitae Gul. Marchionis de Dou-
glas, relictae ex matrimonio cum Margareta : obiit Imo Jan. 1660.
Katharina conjuga Domini de Torphichen, item Joanna Gul. Alex-
andri Comitis de Sterl. aetatis 49." — On the coffin of the last
Marquis of Douglas the simple inscription is : " J. M. D. aetatis
54, obiit 25 Februarii 1700."
When the coffins in this ancient vault had accumulated so that
it could not well contain more, it was abandoned for a new and
spacious vault under the present church. There, are deposited the
remains of the Duke and Duchess of Douglas, the late Lord Dou-
glas and his two ladies, Lady Lucy, sister to the present Duke of
Montrose, and Lady Jane, sister to the late Duke of Buccleuch, and
Sholto, one of his Lordship's sons by his second marriage.
Ecclesiastical History. — The parish of Douglas belonged of old to
the Abbots of Kelsd, by one of whom part of it was given to Theo-
bald, a Fleming, the founder, according to George Chalmers, of the
Douglas family. The church and parish were dedicated to St Bridget
or Bride ; and the old church is still named St Bride's. " By St Bride
of Douglas" was the usual oath of the Douglases. A person of the
name of Beckerton was presented to this church by Edward of
* Godscroft calls him Lord of Aubigny.
494 LANARKSHIRE.
England, in 1291 ; but it does not appear that Ire entered upon the
charge. We find Ailmer de Softlaw, parson of Douglas, swearing
fealty to Edward in 1296. To wards the end of the fourteenth cen-
tury, the parish of Douglas was made a prebend of the cathedral
of Glasgow. Archibald Douglas, rector of this parish, was engaged
in the murder of Rizzio, for which Christian-like service he was
raised by the Regent Murray to the office of a Lord of Session.
At the Reformation the revenues of the rectory were let on lease
at L. 200 per annum. In the old church there was an altar to the
Virgin Mary, and one to St Thomas. Besides the church of
St Bride's there appear to have been at one time several religious
houses in different parts of the parish. At Anderson there was
a chapel with a place of interment. The font stone was removed
upwards of eighty years ago ; and near the site of the chapel there
is a remarkably fine spring called the Chapel Well. On the adjoin-
ing lands of Glentaggart, there was a building which was proba-
bly a chapel, as a font stone was found in it which is still preserv-
ed. Near Parishholm there was a chapel founded by James IV.
and in the east of the parish there is a hill called the Chapel-hill.
Lord Douglas is patron of the parish and titular of the teinds.
The parochial register of baptisms commences on the 7th Septem-
ber 1671 ; the register of the proceedings of the kirk-session on the
23d December 1692.
Education. — Extensive as this parish is, its inhabitants in almost
every part of it have within their reach the means of good education.
Besides the parish school, in which not merely the ordinary
branches, but classical literature and mathematics may be learned,
there is an English school in the town, very numerously attended.
In the village of Rigside, in the lower district of the parish, inha-
bited chiefly by colliers, there was, about fourteen years ago, only one
school, attended by 17 scholars, and so little interest did the pa-
rents then take in the education of their children, that not more
than one or two appeared at the annual examination of the school ;
now, although the population of that district is not greatly increas-
ed, there are two schools, each attended by 60 scholars; and, at
the last examination in May 1835, the number of spectators in each
was nearly equal to that of the pupils. There is likewise a school
at Tablestone, in the upper portion of the parish, generally attend-
ed by about 35 or 40 scholars. In general, these schools are sup-
plied with excellent teachers. At the parish school, there have al-
ways been some poor children taught free; but as it has been found
DOUGLAS. 496
that, owing to the low rate of weavers' wages, there are a greater num-
ber of children than usual, whose parents cannot afford to send them
to school, an association is now forming for the purpose of raising
a fund for insuring to the children of the most indigent the bles-
sings of education ; and it is to be hoped that it will be so liberal-
ly supported as to effect completely its benevolent and most import-
ant purpose. There are likewise two Sabbath schools in the town,
both of which are well attended. The salary of the parish teacher
is the maximum, and an elegant school-room, with a dwelling-house
for the schoolmaster above, was built about eight years ago, at
the expense of Lord Douglas. A yearly salary of L. 5 is likewise
allowed by his Lordship to the principal teacher at Rigside, where
a commodious school-house is now being built at the expense of
the same generous nobleman.
Library. — - There is a subscription library in the town of Dou-
glas, containing about 1000 volumes, tolerably well chosen. It is
gradually increasing, although the fund is but small.
Poor. — The proportion of paupers is great. The average num-
ber who have regular aliment from the parish funds is 46 ; but there
are many besides who receive occasional relief. The heritors raise
by voluntary assessment the fund necessary for the maintenance
of the poor and other parochial purposes, the assessment vary-
ing from 9d. to Is. in the pound of valued rent. The church
collections average about L. 45 yearly, and to this fund is likewise
to be added the interest of L. 110 bequeathed to the poor. The
late John Gillespie, Esq. of Sunnyside left L. 100 for the benefit
of the poor of this parish, who are not on the roll of paupers, in-
trusting the annual distribution of the interest to the minister of
the parish and the senior surgeon. Among the same class of poor
are distributed the collections, averaging about L. 8, drawn on the
Sabbath of the sacrament, and other days set apart for divine ser-
vice on that occasion. In few parishes in Scotland, indeed, are
the wants of the poor more humanely attended to. An annual
donation of a cart of coals is made by Lord Douglas to every poor
family in the parish, upwards of 130 hearths being cheered by this
liberal present at the most inclement season of the year. In times
of severe pressure from the dulness of trade, the poor have always
had a certain resource in the liberality of his Lordship, who, with
no less judgment that beneficence, employs them in useful labour,
by which the place or the public is benefited, while they are saved
from the degrading feelings and the evil habits that would result
496 LANARKSHIRE.
from a dependence on mere eleemosynary relief. It is much to
be regretted that the fine spirit of independence which rendered
Scotsmen so reluctant to apply for charitable support is fast dying
away ; although it ought to be mentioned, to the praise of the peo-
ple of Douglas, that, how low soever the rate of wages, so long as
they can procure employment, they are industrious and uncomplain-
ing.
Friendly Societies. — There are 4 friendly Societies in the town
of Douglas, — the Society of Weavers, the Society of Free Masons,
the Friendly Society, and the Douglas Friendly Club. Their
funds are good : and being under judicious management, are pro-
ductive of considerable benefit to their members, whom age or
infirmity have rendered incapable of earning a maintenance.
There is a female religious society, whose funds are chiefly trans-
mitted to the Edinburgh Bible Society, and partly appropriated
to other religious purposes.
Inns. — Unfortunately for the morals of the people, there are no
fewer than 12 public houses in the parish, including the two
principal inns at Douglas and Douglas mill.
Fairs. — Another circumstance very prejudicial to the morals of
the people is the number of fairs, of which there are 7 in the-
course of the year. These the working classes keep as holidays ;
and as few of them think of resuming their labours- till the follow-
ing week, there is a great loss of time, with a most ruinous waste
of means. Most of these fairs might be abolished not only without
detriment, but with great advantage to the place.
Fuel. — Coal is here so abundant and cheap, that it is the only
fuel made use of, except in the remote parts of the parish, to which
it would be difficult to have them conveyed. In such places peat
is used, which is generally of excellent quality.
GENERAL REMARKS.
Upon the whole, the parish is in a flourishing and improving state.
The tenantry are active, intelligent, careful, and thriving; and their
industry and enterprise are encouraged by the liberality, and stimu-
mulated by the example, of their generous and enlightened land-
lord. Their character is in general most respectable, still retain-
ing many of the best traits by which the rural population of our
country was in its best days distinguished.
August 1835. Revised June 1836.
PARISH OF CRAWFORDJOHN.
PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. WILLIAM GOLDIE, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — THE origin of the name cannot be easily disco-
vered. Chalmers, in his Caledonia, relates a story on the sub-
ject, with all becoming gravity, proceeding upon the supposition,
that names of a similar construction are to be discovered every-
where throughout Scotland. " John the son of Baldwin de Big-
gar," he says, " held in the reign of Malcolm IV. a portion of this
extensive mountainous district. He assumed the name of Crawford,
and fixed his residence on Duneaton river, and from him the name
of his settlement was called John's town, and in some charters it
is designed villa Johannis privigni Baldwinnii." — " Before 1279
the district of Crawfordjohn," he continues, " was established as
a distinct parish, and the chapel of John's town became the parish
church, hence the name of Crawfordjohn was affixed to the pa-
rish." But this summary mode of accounting for the name can-
not be satisfactory to any one who recollects, that there are no au-
thorities produced by him, and that it is not merely the only parish,
but the only village (I presume) in Scotland, which is designated
by a Christian and family name, joined together in this awkward,
unusual form.
Extent and Boundaries, fyc. — According to Forrest's map of the
county, the length of the parish is between 11 and 12 miles, and
its breadth between 9 and 10, and it contains 41.50 square miles,
and 21,123 Scots acres. The figure of the parish is irregular. At
the east end, it is only about 2 miles broad, but it soon widens in
both directions, till, from the most southern point near Leadhills to
the north east at the source of Millburn, it is about 10 miles across ;
higher up than this, it gradually becomes more narrow, till above
Sheriffcleuch it lies all on one side of Duneaton, and, at the very
top, is little more than one mile broad. On the east by north, it is
separated from Roberton (now united to Wiston) by Millburn and
Duneaton ; on the east, from Lamington and Crawford, by Clyde ;
498 LANARKSHIRE.
on the south Glengonner, for about two miles, divides it from Craw-
ford; and then the boundary is the ridge of the hills north of that
stream, and as far as the county of Lanark reaches in that direc-
tion ; on the west, it has the parishes of Sanquhar and Kirkconnel
in Dumfries-shire, and Auchinleck and Muirkirk in Ayrshire, con-
tiguous to it, from all of which it is separated by no natural boun-
daries, except, in some places, by the ridge of the hills ; and, on the
north, lies the parish of Douglas, separated from it by Duneaton
for some miles from Cairntable downwards. This is the parish
in Lanarkshire which unites with it the counties of Dumfries and
Ayr, and, at one spot, this junction is indicated by the appellation,
bestowed on a certain stone, of the " three shire stone."
Topographical Appearances. — This parish may be said to con-
sist of one large glen, along with the adjoining hills, ascending
from Clyde at Abington to Cairntable on the borders of Ayrshire,
which lies entirely between Duneaton and Glengonner, where they
fall into Clyde, but which gradually expands, so as soon to com-
prehend both sides of Duneaton for eight or nine miles of its winding
course, and also the glen through which Snar runs before falling
into Duneaton, and several other glens with their tributary streams,
and which is at last limited, and for several miles, to the lands on
the south side of Duneaton. All the hills which ascend from the
banks of the principal river, as well as of its tributaries, are flat on
the top, of gentle acclivity, much diversified in their form and size,
and generally clothed with excellent pasture. Several of them
are apparently some hundred feet above the level grounds near
the river, though I am not aware of any accurate measurement
ever having been made of them ; and, perhaps, as exact a notion
of their altitude, as is required, will be attained, when, instead of
specifying indefinite particulars, it is mentioned that the village of
Crawfordjohn may be about 200 feet lower than Leadhills, which
is understood to be 1280 feet above the level of the sea, and that
the top of Cairntable is 1650. There is no one so much elevated
above the rest as to be remarkably conspicuous, Cairntable ex-
cepted.
Soil. — Soil of almost every description is to be met with in the
parish. By the side of Duneaton, some of the holms consist of a
deep and rich loam, while others, being more exposed to inunda-
tions, are gravelly and sandy. Upon the sides of some of the hills,
there is a strong red clay, susceptible of high cultivation from ma-
nure and draining ; and, upon the sides of others, the soil is not
sufficiently deep, and rather gravelly, requiring to be often ma-
CRAWFORDJOHN. 499
nured, and producing tolerable crops, only when, in the early part
of summer, the showers of rain are frequent. All the croft lands
are excellent, and present many varieties of soil ; and, though at
one time rather exhausted by cropping, yet lately they have been
allowed to recover, and are now judiciously indulged with a rest
during a few years of pasturage. All the mossy grounds are deep,
and need both to be thoroughly drained, and to have gravel or hard
soil mixed with them, before the labours of husbandry can be exe-
cuted ; but as soon as the moss is reduced in quantity, and it is
possible for the plough to get through it, and the cart over it, the
abundant crops, even for three or four years in succession, reward the
farmer with an ample recompense. To any one who has been in
the parish, it is superfluous to add, how many are the acres of deep
moss, which hold out such encouragement to the active cultivator.
Climate. — The climate is particularly moist. In addition to
long tracts of incessant rain at every season, many are the showers
which often fall every day, even in the course of the warmest and
driest summer. Children are liable to croup, and many die of it ;
persons approaching puberty, or a few years past it, are often car-
ried off by pulmonary complaints, and many of both sexes, but par-
ticularly women in the prime of life, suffer much from complaints
of the stomach. Rheumatism prevails to a considerable extent,
and at times affects persons of all ages and in all ranks.
Hydrography. — Duneaton is the only river, unless Snar and
Blackburn be honoured with the same appellation. It rises at the
foot of Cairn table, and runs the whole length of the parish, re-
ceiving such a supply from the almost numberless streams, which run
down from the hills on both sides of it, that for the last four or five
miles of its course, it is at an average about 40 feet broad. Like
all rivers in similar situations, it overflows its banks, after heavy
rains or a dissolution of snow, and spreads over the adjoining
holms ; and is liable to a change in its course and fords. Every-
where the finest springs of water are to be met with, and many of
them, not more agreeable to the taste, than fitted for all domestic
purposes. In several places, there are chalybeate and petrifying
springs ; and one, a few yards off the public road near the thirty-third
mile-stone from Glasgow, seems worthy of the careful examination
of the chemist.
Mineralogy. — It is the fixed opinion of the natives of this district,
that many different minerals would be found in the parish, if at-
tempts to discover them were conducted upon a liberal scale, and
by scientific miners. The same range of hills, which proceeds from
500 LANARKSHIRE.
Wanlockhead to Leadhills, and the highest points of which, at cer-
tain places, constitute the boundaries of this parish, continues for
seven or eight miles from the latter village, to the confluence of Dun-
eatonand Clyde, having Glengonner on the south of it, and Duneaton
part of the way on the north, and may reasonably be supposed to
have veins of lead in it throughout the whole of its course : as, with-
in these few years, a lead mine was profitably wrought at Snar's
head, near its upper extremity ; as, within the memory of persons
still alive, lead was got at Glendouran, near the middle ; and, as
about eighteen years ago, there was a discovery of lead sufficiently
encouraging made at Craighead, within a mile of its lower extremity.
There are vestiges of a work on the lands of Abington, which is
reported to have been made in search of gold, and prosecuted
with considerable success. In a manuscript journal of the move-
ments of the Earl of Selkirk, in the beginning of last century,
I have learned it was mentioned, that his Lordship came to
Crawfordjohn, and " visited the silver mines, &c." which are de-
clared by tradition to have been near the Kirkburn. When im-
proving a road some years back, what was denominated the copper
vein was again come upon, and several pieces of spar, with the cop-
per in it, were to be seen lying scattered near the road ; and, upon
the lands both of Glespin and Netherton, there have been repeat-
ed indications of coal observed. And, certainly, any recent efforts
upon these lands, or those of Whitecleugh and Lettershaws, were
conducted in such a manner, and brought to an end so abruptly,
that to any one of an enterprising spirit, a failure in these in-
stances, will be regarded as nothing else than a powerful incitement
to greater exertions.
Zoology. — The adder, (Viper a communis,) weasel, hedgehog,
and polecat, are often to be seen ; the otter, fox, and squirrel sel-
dom. Black game, grouse, partridges, and hares are very nume-
rous. About forty years ago, there was on the trees of Gilkerscleugh
an extensive heronry, but in the course of time, and after many se-
vere contests with their multiplying foes, the herons were killed or
dispersed, and the victorious rooks occupied their place. Against
the rooks in their turn a hot war by agents of another kind having
raged for some years, powder and shot at last either destroyed or
frightened them from their residence ; and, at the suggestion of a
proprietor, alarmed for his fish ponds, the same effectual means
were resorted to last spring, for the extermination of the few herons
which had begun to congregate at Glespin. A solitary tame rab-
bit, some years ago, formed an intimacy with a hare ; and the nume-
CRAWFORDJOHN. 501
rous progeny, though in colour like the hare, were in shape and
size liker the rabbit. They did not exactly burrow, but excavated
such holes that they were nearly concealed in them. It is under-
stood that they have now all become the prey of the swift-footed
collies. A pair of fieldfares have twice remained the whole year,
and built their nests near the manse. In the winter of 1834, a
Corvus graculus or red-legged crow appeared in the vicinity of the
village, and was shot. A blackbird with a white head remained
for some time, and was seen by many persons lately at Gilkers-
cleugh ; and at Townhead the appearance of a black sparrow was
an occasion of equal curiosity to many.
The common trout is very numerous in all the burns and streams.
The dark-coloured in Blackburn is still as famous as when the last
Statistical Report was drawn up ; in it there are also eels, one of
which I saw 2 feet 8 inches long. Unfortunately for those who
enjoy the amusement of angling, persons from villages in the ad-
jacent parishes are accustomed every season to come with nets, and
contrive to destroy a greater number of trouts, than they find it
possible, or convenient to carry home.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
I have neither seen nor heard of any documents or papers which
serve to throw light on the history of the parish, or which detail
any remarkable events that have occurred in it; and there is no
tradition of persons having been born in it, who have become great-
ly distinguished in the world. Mr Robert Davidson, father of the
late Principal of the University of Glasgow, was minister here
from 1713 to 1749; and his memory is still cherished in the neigh-
bourhood as an able and faithful pastor, who was always prepared
for the emergencies of life ; who instantaneously penetrated the mo-
tives of human conduct; and who, by his practical exposition of absur-
dities, and his humorous representation of real occurrences, at once
maintained the ascendancy of a superior mind, and contributed to
the harmless amusement of his friends and associates. Mr Davidson
was succeeded by Mr William Millar, whose ministry was prolonged
to fifty years ; a Nathaniel, indeed, as was declared of him in a fu-
neral sermon, in whom there was no guile, and who, though unable,
from his childlike simplicity, to relish the broad humour of his pre-
decessor, or to enjoy with high zest the inimitably told stories, and
inexhaustible wit of the kind-hearted neighbour,* who pronounced
upon him the above merited panygeric, — yet, from his perfect ac-
* The Rev. W. M'Cubbin, late minister of Douglas, who died in 1820.
LANARK. K k
502 LANARKSHIRE.
quaintance with his professional duties, and his unwearied diligence
in discharging them, established for himself, in the estimation of
the people, the character of one, who would not be misled by the
fashions of the world to gloss over iniquity by giving it false names ;
but who would fearlessly contemn meanness, expose artful de-
signs, and denounce prevarication, wherever he detected them. Mr
Millar's successor, Mr John Aird, died in 1815. It is singular that
Mr Black, in his ninety-fifth year, should have seen all the four
incumbents who have been in the parish for the last 122 years.
Land-owners. — The chief of these are, taking them in order, ac-
cording to the value of their lands : T. H. Colebrooke, Esq., Lord
Douglas ; G. Irving, Esq. of Newton ; The Duke of Buccleuch ;
and Lord Hopetoun.
Parochial Registers. — The oldest volume of the session records
commences 1693, and ends 1709. It is apparently entire and re-
gularly kept. The next volume commences 1714, and the records
from that period are uninterrupted till the present day ; and, after
perusing most of them, I would have said they are correctly en-
grossed and well kept, had I not come upon the following entry :
" 16th May 1764. That the above register was revised by ap-
pointment of Presbytery, and with recommendations of more accu-
racy appointed to be attested by Robert Thomson, P. C." There
is also a volume containing a duplicate of many of the minutes of
session from 1731 to 1797.
The oldest register of births and marriages goes back to 1690,
and ends 1743; but the leaves are loose, many of them injured by
damp, and several lost. The next begins 1743, and ends 1792 ; the
next 1793, and ends J 816 ; but none of them appear to be complete.
In 1817 new and separate registers were got for deaths, marriages,
and births ; the two first have been kept with perfect accuracy, and
the last are not so complete.
Antiquities. — It is said there was originally a castle at Craw-
fordjohn, which furnished part of the materials for building the
castle of Boghouse, of which notice is taken in the last Statistical
Account, and of which all the vestiges will soon be effaced. At
Mosscastle, too, there was once a castellated dwelling, as well as
at Glendorch and Snar ; but of none of them, except the last, is
there any thing very remarkable related. One of the proprietors
of Snar was famous in the days of border warfare ; and, wherever
bodily strength, and the instantaneous execution of a cruel and re-
vengeful determination were calculated to excite terror, the cha-
racter of Jock of Snar facilitated the accomplishment of his daring
CRAWFORDJOHN. 503
deeds. Upon one occasion, some of the Annandale depredators
had lingered too long in his well-provided mansion ; Jock came
home very unexpectedly, and while, with no sparing hand, he ad-
ministered chastisement to all around him, one pleaded his sacred
office as a title to mercy ; but Jock was not disposed to admit
such a plea, and terminated at once his sacerdotal functions, and
marauding propensities, in a deep pool at the back of his dwelling,
— the appellation of the Priest's Pool still certifying the fact.
The two concentric circles on the Black Hill, opposite Gilkers-
cleugh, are still discernible. The diameter of the inner one is
34 yards, and the outer one is distant from it about 12. As the
view from this place down Clyde is extensive, and as a great part
of the lands some miles up Duneaton can be seen from it, there
is a probability that it was either a small fort or military station,
or a receptacle for cattle and necessary stores, and connected with
other similar stations in the vicinity. Between Clyde and the
house of Mr J. Watson, Abington, there are visible traces of an-
other circular enclosure, 32 yards being its diameter. Nearly
opposite Coldchapel, upon the side of Clyde, there is the appear-
ance of a moat, which goes back from the river about 60 yards, and
encloses ground along the edge of it for about 64 yards in length ;
within which, and towards one side, there is a mound between 20
and 30 feet higher than the surface of the water, and the circum-
ference of which measures 50 yards. A little higher up Clyde,
in the parish of Crawford, there is a mound of a similar descrip-
tion ; and, for whatever purpose constructed, they seem to have
formed a continued chain, for several miles, along the banks of
the river.
In the peat-hags, as they are here called, trunks and branches
of trees are often come upon ; and in many of the peats brought
home for fuel, alder and hazel are distinguishable. Several coins
have at times been picked up, but never in any great quantities.
Lately, a silver piece, almost the size of a sixpence, was found, hav-
ing on it Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Augustus; and above
twenty others with Edward, Dublin, and Waterford on them.
Upon Mr Irving's farm of Birkcleugh, and at the edge of Cra-
wick moss, there is an opening in the ground of about a foot in di-
ameter, into which the waters from the adjacent hills run, after any
heavy rain ; but, whether they are absorbed in the moss at some
distance from Holemerry (as the opening is called,) or are accumu-
lated under the moss, so as to be preparing a miniature exhibition
504 LANARKSHIRE.
of what took place on the Solway, or emerge quietly and unob-
served from their subterraneous abode, has never been ascertained.
Modern buildings., fyc. — The mansion-houses of Gilkerscleugh
and Glespin are in a very dilapidated condition, and could not ac-
commodate any respectable families without undergoing extensive
repairs.
There is only one mill in the parish, in which are ground oats,
bear, and pease.
Historical notices. — Chalmers, in his Caledonia, mentions, that
the lands of Crawfordjohn, having come into the possession of co-
heiresses, were long held in two shares or half baronies, — that they
were united in the time of James V., when Sir James Hamilton of
Finart, bastard son of the Earl of Arran, acquired one-half of the
barony, and obtained the other half from his father, — that his succes-
sors, the Hamiltons of Crawfordjohn and Avondale, held the barony
and the patronage of the church during the reign of Mary and a
great part of the reign of her son, — that before 1625, the barony
and patronage were purchased by James Marquis of Hamilton, —
and that in 1693 the Duke and Duchess of Hamilton conferred
them on their youngest son Charles Earl of Selkirk.
Towards the end of the last century, they were purchased from
the Earl's descendant by the late Sir George Colebrooke, one of
whose sons is the present proprietor.
By a charter of Charles II. (18th January 1668) to Anne
Duchess of Hamilton, the village of Crawfordjohn was made a
burgh of barony, with the privilege of a weekly market and an-
nual fairs.
Part of the rebel army, in the end of 1 745, came through this
parish on their way to Glasgow, and the tradition is, that they were
in a very disorderly state. So late as 1820, I saw a cheerful old
man, the late tenant at Coldchapel, playing on the ice, and heard
him in the evening, when bantered by his companions concerning
his age, admit that he was strong enough in 1745 to pro vide him-
self with a musket, taken forcibly from one of the rebels.
III. — POPULATION.
In the former Statistical Account, the following table of the
population is given, viz.
In 1755 - 765
1761 - 550
1788 - 620
1790 • 590
In the first of these numbers I conceive there must be a typo-
graphical error. For, upon conversing with persons upwards of
CRAWFORDJOHN. 505
eighty years old, and natives of the parish, I learn that no extra-
ordinary change took place between 1755 and 1761, to occasion a
difference of 215; and one person recollects having heard the late
Rev. Mr Millar say, that the population was little more than 500,
when he was ordained in 1750, and gradually increased till the
end of his incumbency, which was for fifty years. The diminution
of 30 from 1788 to 1790, can be accounted for from a change
upon 2 or 3 farms.
According to the Government census, the numbers were in 1801 - 712
1811 - 808
1821 - 971
1831 - 991
This last consists of 188 families, — 73 being employed in agricul-
ture; 34 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft; and 81 not com-
prised in the two preceding classes.
I have been accustomed, in the course of visiting the parish, to
take a list of the inhabitants ; their names being written out, and
every page summed up, so as to render it easy to correct any acci-
dental mistakes. The following table is extracted from these lists :
M. F. M. F.
474 - 400 964 1827 - 472 - 478 - 950
455 - 484 939 1829 - 478 - 501 - 979
478 - 509 987 1831 - 490 - 508 - 998
467 - 495 962 1833 - 501 - 516 - 1017
476 - 498 974 1835 - 512 - 495 - 1007
According to the list of 1835, there are resident in the villages of Crawfordjohn, 121
Netherton, 46
Abington, 149
country, - 691
The yearly average of births during the seven years preceding 1835 is 28f-
deaths, - - 14^
marriages - - 7)f
Number of persons under 15 years of age is 384
betwixt 1 5 and 20 - 306
30 and 50, - - 171
50 and 70, - - 120
upwards of 70, - 26
Unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers above 50, - 23
women above 45, - 38
There are 188 families; and, taking merely the families which
have children, and those children who are at home, the average
number in each family is exactly 3/7, i. e. there are 148 families
who have children living with them, and the number of these child-
ren is 460.
Only one of the ten heritors of the parish constantly resides in
it; and there are eight proprietors of land of the yearly value of
more than L. 50.
There are 3 fatuous persons, 2 males and 1 female, and 2
males insane. There are 6 smiths, 8 wrights, 2 masons, 2 coopers,
3 shoemakers, 8 weavers, 6 tailors, 2 carriers, 4 miners, 7 retail-
1816
1818
1820
1822
1825
506 LANARKSHIRE.
ers of groceries, cloth, &c. 8 keepers of public-houses, and 2 keep-
ers of toll-bars.
Character of the People. — In their manners the people are plain
and unaffected ; frank and sincere in their intercourse with others ;
obliging and neighbourly among themselves ; kind and charitable
to the poor ; singularly attentive and hospitable to strangers. To
every object near them, either animate or inanimate^ they are fond-
ly attached ; and, with much uneasiness, they contemplate the pos-
sibility of a permanent removal from their native place. To be-
long to the parish confers, in their estimation, upon any one an un-
doubted claim to their sympathy and good offices ; and the same
feeling, which, within the recollection of many, prompted them to
espouse the cause of every injured or insulted fellow-parishioner at a
market or fair, and to administer instantaneous castigation, exists, I
believe, as strong as ever, though exhibited in a less boisterous form.
They are sober, frugal, industrious, and active. To the principles of
religion and morality, their attention is directed from their earliest
years ; and that they study the Scriptures to good purpose, as well
as the Westminster Confession of Faith, is proved most satisfacto-
rily, no less by the regularity of their attendance on ordinances,
and the punctuality with which many assemble their families for
religious exercises, than by the manner in which they acquit them-
selves at the parochial examinations. Upon all occasions, they show
a readiness to listen to any suggestions conducive to the advance-
ment of their temporal prosperity, or subservient to the improve-
ment and comfort of others. They consented to the abolition of
tent-preaching, — to the reduction of services at funerals to one in
place of seven or eight, — and to abstinence from public entertain-
ments on the Sabbath, when newly married people were first in
church, or children were baptized ; and have expressed thanks
for these innovations upon their long-established practices. When-
ever asked, they both enlarge their contributions to purchase coals
for the poor, and drive them gratis ; and it is necessary to make
this demand upon them almost every alternate year.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture and Rural Economy. — In Forrest's map, it is said
there are 21,123 Scots acres in the parish,, which is probably near
the truth ; since, upon summing up the items given me by the
tenants, the amount is almost the same; 0200 being represent-
ed as arable, and nearly all the rest as pasture. The planta-
tions at Glespin, Gilkerscleugh, and Abington do not cover, I
think, above 50 acres. They consist of Scotch fir, spruce, larch>
CRAWFORDJOHN. T)07
ash, plane, beech, lime, chestnut, and oak ; some of the oldest be-
ing well grown, and of an excellent quality, About half an acre
around the manse was planted seventeen years ago ; and besides
the above, there are silver fir, birch, elms, alder, poplars, and wil-
lows, which are thriving ; but they grow very slowly. I observe also
two or three clumps lately planted, which, I presume, are intend-
ed to prove by experiment, what time trees will take to reach ma-
turity upon the poorest land, and in the most exposed situations.
1 have no doubt of them becoming, in forty or fifty years, large
enough to afford agreeable shelter to linnets and hedge-sparrows.
Rent of Land. — Small pieces of land are let as high, perhaps, as
L. 2 an acre. The average rent of the whole can be easily calcu-
lated from the statement that shall be given. Grazing a cow may
be estimated L. 3, and a sheep at 5s.
Rate of Labour — The wages of good men-servants have, of late,
been about L. 12 a year, and of women, L. 6. ; for mowing, the
rate is 2s. a day with meat, and for other work, Is. 6d. ; wrights
and masons get 2s. a day with victuals ; and slaters, 2s 6d. ; shep-
herds have forty-eight or fifty sheep kept for them, which form part
of the farm- stock ; and they are also provided with victuals. It is
customary to hire persons for harvest, who come and reside in the
house, and receive from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2, 5s., according as the
duration of harvest labour is short or long.
Live-Stock and Produce. — All the sheep are black-faced, except
one flock of fifteen scores, which are a mixed breed of the Cheviot
and Leicester; the horses are of the Clydesdale breed; and the cattle
of the Ayrshire. Great attention is paid to all of them, and most
strenuous efforts are made to bring them to a state of the highest
improvement. Horses reared here have long been dispersed into
all parts of the country ; and of late, cows of exquisite symmetry
and most attractive beauty have been produced in greater num-
bers, than could have been anticipated by those, who have heard
chiefly of our great elevation and unfavourable climate.
Having received an account of the produce and stock of every
distinct farm, the following statement must make a near approxi-
mation to the truth.
There are 114 horses employed for working or riding ; 36 do.
young, but at least a year old ; 666 milch cows ; 403 young do.
at least a year old; 31 bulls; 153 pigs; 507 scores of sheep;
620 bolls of oats sown, which produce 30 imperial bushels each
boll; 36 do. bear; which produce 48 do.; 134 acres Scots of
508 LANARKSHIRE.
potatoes planted, which produce 40 bolls an acre ; 62 do. of tur-
nips sown, which are worth L. 4 an acre.
Oats and bear in the following table are calculated at the high-
est fiars prices for 1834. The bolls mentioned are equal to 5.82512
imperial bushels.
10, 140 sheep at 5s. ahead, - - - 'n L. 2535 0 0.
Oats, 2325 quarters, at 1 8s. - - 2092 10 0
Bear, 216 do. at L. 1, 4s. 8cl. - - 266 8 0
Potatoes, 5360 bolls, at 4s. per boll of 25 imperial stones, - - 1072 0 0
Turnips, 62 acres Scots, at L. 4, . 248 0 0
Rye-grass hay, 19,140 stones at 6d. a stone of 17£ imperial Ibs. - 478 10 0
Meadow do. 77>535 do at 4d. do. do. - - 1292 5 0
Pasturing of 1 1 4 horses, at L. 4, - 456 0 0
Do. 36 young do. at L. 3. and 10s. for foggage, - - 126 0 0
Do. 6'.'6 cows L. 3, and 10s. do. - 2331 0 0
Do. 403 young cows, 15s. and 5s. for do. - - 403 0 0
Do. 31 bulls, L. 3, and 10s. do. 10810 0
Whitecleugh and Glespin parks let for (the stock in them being at times
changed, could not be easily counted,) - - 254 0 0
L. 11,663 3 0
Besides the above, there were 6 bolls of pease sown ; of the
36 bolls of bear, 3 were really barley ; and all the present year's
calves and foals are excluded.
The valued rent is L. 2360, 6s. 8d. Scots. The real rent is
L. 5925, 17s. 6d. Sterling, including L. 16, the rent of Ume. The
common practice, as to sheep, is to keep one hog or young one for
every five ewes ; and the average is, that the fleeces of nine sheep
weigh two stones, or forty-eight imperial Ibs. As to cows, the cal-
culation is, that, taking the whole in the byre, the quantity of sweet
milk cheese made must be from fourteen to sixteen stones each ;
twenty-two imperial Ibs. being in the stone.
In 1 828, three cows were kept on the glebe, which calved near-
ly at the same time in the beginning of May, were pastured dur-
ing the day, and at night, and while the weather was excessively hot
at mid-day, were fed in the house with clover and vetches. The
family, consisting of five grown up persons and four children un-
der seven years of age, were amply supplied with milk, butter, and
cheese, during the whole year; and the remaining value of produce
from the cows amounted to L. 28, 14s. 2d. There were 71 stones
6^ Ibs of cheese sold, and a fattened calf.
Dairy produce from this parish is sold as advantageously in Ed-
inburgh and Glasgow, as any brought from quarters of long-esta-
blished celebrity. A few still make both butter and cheese. In
one or two dairies, the curds of cows' milk and of ewes' milk being
wrought separately, are put one upon the other into the same vat,
and pressed ; in consequence of which the cheeses have two sides
of different qualities, and have been by some so highly relished,
CRAWFORDJOHN. ' 500
that the price got for them has been 50 per cent, above what could
be got for sweet milk cheese alone.
Draining. — Surface draining has been carried onto a consider-
able extent and very successfully ; but the draining of arable land
has not been prosecuted with the same ardour, or conducted upon
the most approved principles. Many fields have their appearance
disfigured, and are rendered much more difficult to cultivate, by
corners and plots of meadow or marshy ground in them, which
could be drained at a very trifling expense. Irrigation is attend-
ed to, and productive of many of its usual benefits ; but these be-
nefits would be more extensive and more durable, were care taken
to level the surface. Several large meadows would, in the course
of a few years, repay the expenditure of L. 200 or L. 300 in level-
ling them.
Leases, Farm Buildings, and Fences. — The leases are generally
for fifteen or nineteen years. The farm-houses and offices are not
in a good state. No one set of them has been built according to
any plan ; in consequence of this, there is no correspondence be-
tween the constituent parts of the whole, and ample accommoda-
tion is not in fact provided, even when the houses are really nume-
rous, A great want of enclosures is still apparent, although many
miles of dry stone dikes have been lately erected.
Tenants would soon feel, in their comfortable experience, how
much the management of their business is facilitated and their con-
venience* promoted by order and cleanliness, could they get their
houses constructed in conformity with their wants, and with a spe-
cial view to dairy husbandry : their boiler and milk-houses, for in-
stance, placed near their byres, and connected with them by doors ;
and their dwelling-houses with at least two doors in them, and a
separate approach to each, so that there might be no necessity for
every visitor treading in the path marked out by the cows. All
their offices ought to be slated ; and the expense of this they them-
selves had better incur at the beginning of their leases, than be al-
most every year employed thatching.*
Thorn hedges grow well and rapidly, — as may be seen around
the manse : and two or three fields, enclosed by them on every farm,
would afford admirable shelter to the cows, at particular seasons,
and during wet, stormy weather. The crofts are well fitted for
such enclosures, and in eight or nine years, a hedge, properly ma^
* In the building of all dwelling-houses, whinstone should be used, for every kind
of freestone is porous, and draws damp in this wet country. Masons should be taught
to cut the whinstone with hammers of different sizes, as they do the granite at Aber-
deen ; and with a Httle care, whinstone thus cut presents a very agreeable appearance.
510 LANARKSHIRE.
naged, makes a sufficient fence. If this system were once begun,
it could not fail to be universally approved of, and no difficulty
would occur in selecting such portions of land, as do not expose
the hedges to the sheep.
These are all matters to which the proprietors themselves ought
to look ; and, in addition to their encouragement of agriculture, by
laying out money on houses and dikes, and charging their tenants
six per cent, for it, it would be no injury to their real interest, if they
got an architect to plan suitable buildings, which, with slight rno«
difications, might be convenient for all, and provided these at the
beginning of every lease : and if they both planted hedges and em-
ployed workmen to keep them in order. Trees undoubtedly should
be planted upon a large scale in many situations, but at first in hol-
low sheltered places by the sides of burns, and on good land ; and
then, as they grow up, desirable shelter would be furnished by them ;
and plantations might thus, in the course of time, reach the tops of
the highest hills. The lazy streams, with deep stagnant pools,
should all be made straight; which would at the same time increase
the rapidity of their currents, and render draining, less laborious and
expensive. Blackburn, particularly, should undergo this change, as
on the surface and along the sides of it, the first threatenings of frost
are always observed. From the leases should be removed those re-
strictions to which, in most cases, it is reckoned inexpedient to make
the tenants submit. And, when it is mentioned, that for some lands
a multure of a seventeenth part is exacted, a most satisfying proof is
surely adduced of the necessity that exists, for exempting from every
form and degree of this bondage. Were these reasonable altera-
tions all introduced, and direct encouragement in this manner given
to skilful farmers, it could not but happen, that tenants, who, left
entirely to themselves, and struggling against many disadvantages,
have manfully surmounted many obstacles in their progress, would
advance with accelerated speed in the course of improvement, and
tread upon the heels of those, who imagine they are at an immea-
surable distance before them.
Quarries, fyc. — Two quarries of freestone are wrought, and many
of whinstone. There is one lime-work at Whitecleugh ; but the
greatest quantity of lime is procured at Wildshaw, on the borders
of the parish, and about three miles from the village. A lead mine,
a few years since, was opened on the lands of Snar, and the ap-
pearances were reported to be most encouraging. They are at
present working it.
Society for Stock.— Last year the parishes of Crawford and Craw-
CRAWFOUDJOHN. 511
fbrdjohu formed an association for the exhibition of stock. Most
of the farmers joined it, and several of the heritors sent subscrip-
tions : and the various kinds of stock produced both years were
highly commended, as well by the judges, who determined the com-
parative excellences of each lot, as by the many experienced agri-
culturists, who assembled from the adjacent counties.
Above a dozen of tenants and subtenants, besides labouring
their respective lands, employ their horses in driving coals to Mof-
fat, Leadhills, and Wanlockhead.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Market-Towns, Sfc. — At Douglas, distant six miles through the
moor, and eight by the road, a little business is occasionally trans-
acted ; but Biggar, distant fourteen miles, and Lanark sixteen miles
from Crawfordjohn, must be reckoned our nearest market-towns.
Letters come both by Douglas and Leadhills every day, and to
the latter place we enjoy almost daily access by the coal carts.
There are five miles of the Glasgow and Carlisle road in this pa-
rish, and nearly the same of the Biggar and Leadhills. Along the
one, the Edinburgh and Dumfries coach passes, and along the other,
the Glasgow and Carlisle mail, up and down every day. Only
one bridge is entirely in the parish, over Duneaton, and on the
Glasgow road : The parish, however, is connected with the parishes
of Crawford and Roberton by two bridges, — one over Duneaton,
and another over Glengonner. The parochial roads are 33 miles
long, which have been kept in repair during the last ten years at an
yearly average rate of L. 80, J 8s. 9d. There are 29 J ploughgates,
as fixed in 1807 ; and L. 2, 2s. for each of them, 10s. 6d. for every
supernumerary horse, and 3s. from every householder, make up the
above sum. In the upper quarters of the parish, and more than
four miles from the manse, there are no made roads.
Ecclesiastical State. — " At John's-town," Chalmers says, "a cha-
pel was erected, which was for some time dependent on the parish
church of Wicestoun. This grant was confirmed by William the
Lion, and the monks afterwards obtained from Walter the Bishop
of Glasgow, in 1232, a confirmation of the church of Wicestoun
with the two chapels of John's-town and Robertoun." Again he
says, " an account of the property of the monastery of Kelso, made
up by the monks between 1309 and 1316, states that they had the
church of Crawfordjohn in rectoria, which used to be worth L. 6,
1 3s. 4d. yearly. The monks of Kelso appear to have relinquished
this church some time before 1450, when it appears to have been
an independent rectory. In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood in the
512 LANARKSHIRE.
reign of James V., the rectory of Crawfordjohn in the deanery of
Lanark was taxed L. 10, 13s. 4d."
The church is situate conveniently enough for the greater part
of the population, — is only 4 miles distant from one extremity of
the parish, but between 1 1 and 1 2 from the other. It was en-
larged and newly seated in 1817, is in a tolerable state of repair,
and accommodates 272, independently of the communion seat, which
accommodates 38 or 40, and may be considered free. The attend-
ance in church is, on the part of a great many, exactly what it
ought to be, viz. as regular as the return of the Sabbath. The
number of communicants is from 360 to 370 ; and the average of
young communicants for the last twenty years is 19, and nearly J.*
137 male heads of families are entitled to exercise the veto.
There are 20 persons who belong to the Relief, 12 to the Unit-
ed Associate, and 8 to the Reformed Presbyterian, Synods. In
1816, the same denominations in their order numbered as follows :
51, 8, 4 ; and the variation in the two last has been quite acciden-
tal ; two strangers belonging to the latter of the two having come
into the parish, and being joined by other two who left the Relief;
and no fewer than ten having come amongst us who belonged to
the former. Some strangers, lately arrived, are not in communion
with any denomination of Christians; and all the rest belong to the
Established Church. On the day of the General Assembly's fast,
* In the Presbytery records there are various particulars in regard to a vacancy
in Crawfordjohn. The first entry is 1st March 1704, " absent John Bryce, remov-
ed by death." Then 1 st November 1 704, it was proposed to give a call to T. Lin-
ning to succeed Mr Bryce ; but, difficulties having occurred to prevent this being
done, after considerable delay, Lord Selkirk and his dependents wished to have
James Wilson, while another heritor and his adherents were desirous of having
Matthew Wood, and another party proposed to reconcile both these, by giving a call
to a third. Protests were the consequences of these unfortunate proceedings, and
the business was carried before the Synod and General Assembly, whose decisions
were adverse to the views of all these zealous parties. At last Mr Robert Lang was
appointed to preach, at Crawfordjohn, 26th December 1708; but in a representation
by certain parishioners conveyed to the Presbytery, it is stated " how John W'eir of
Newton, bailie to Lord Selkirk, James Gray, chamberlain, George Irving, clerk,
and Robert Galloway, kirk-officer, went into the church with candles, on the Satur-
day night, and nailed such doors as wanted locks, and put the key in Gray's custody,
so that Mr Lang had to preach in the church-yard ; and caused the officer to go to
several of the tenant's houses, and discharged them to hear Mr Lang preach, (albeit
little obedience was given to his commands,) &c." After Mr Lang was ordained,
9th March 1709, (a vacancy of five years having taken place,) to a question of the
Presbytery, as to his peaceable possession of the manse, he replied " he had none at
all, for Gray had taken off the old locks, and put on new ores, and refused to give
him the same." The Presbytery appointed a letter to be written to the Lord Advo-
cate, who replied, " he was fully satisfied that Gray was guilty of a ryot in what he
had done, and that application should be made to the Justices of the Peace to make
open doors, and repossess Mr Lang in the manse of Crawfordjohn," and the Pres-
bytery advised him to cause it be put in execution. The kirk- session was ordered
to cite the dignified chamberlain to appear before the Presbytery, to answer for his
conduct in carrying off the church key.
CRAWFORDJOHN. 513
individuals of all these denominations, and one of them an elder,
were in the parish church, — a most severe reproof to their own
pastors, which should never be forgotten by them.
There is a Bible Society whose contributions amount to L. 5 yearly.
The manse was built in 1803, and has been repaired during my
incumbency every four or five years. The glebe is rather more
than 8 Scotch acres, and would let for L. 16. The stipend is 15
chalders, half meal and half barley, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for com-
munion elements. The average of the last seven years, including
the communion allowance, is L. 244, 2s. lO^d. In 1755 it was
L. 51, 4s. 5d. In 1803 it was L. 75, 13s. 4d. ; then it was aug-
mented to L. 110, at which it remained till 1818, when the last
augmentation was got. The minister has also a right to fuel, feal,
foggage, and divot, on the farm of Balgray, worth from L. 1, 10s.
to L. 2 yearly.
Education. — There is one parochial school. The teacher has
the legal accommodations, and a salary of L. 32, 10s., which,
along with his school fees and other emoluments, makes his income
on an average L. 65. He teaches English, writing, arithmetic,
geography, and the Latin, Greek, and French languages. At pre-
sent, he has 3 advanced scholars, the 2 oldest only fourteen years old,
and the youngest eleven years old; who have read the usual por-
tions of the Latin classics, and lately have gone through three
books of Livy, and nearly the whole of Horace, who are regular-
ly drilled upon grammar, are acquainted with mythology and Ro-
man antiquities, and accustomed to write Latin verses. Two of
the gospels in Greek have been read by them, and some of Pro-
fessor Dunbar's Collectanea Minora ; and, at the same time, they
have acquired some knowledge of geography, and wrought almost
all the accounts in Gray's Arithmetic. They are about to begin
the study of French. The average number of scholars for the last
ten years is 79^.
At Abington there is a private school, and one of the heritors
gives a salary of L. 6. Of late no other branches have been re-
quired to be taught than English, writing, and arithmetic. The
average of scholars for the last ten years is 34. Children do not
usually go to school till they are about six years old ; and all learn
both to read and write, the parents being alive to the benefits of
education, and several of them submitting to severe privations,
that their continuance at school may be prolonged. In the remote
parts of the parish, it is customary for families to associate together
in getting a young person, who teaches all their children assembled
514 LANARKSHIRE.
in one place ; and for whose maintenance and salary they contribute
in proportion to the number of pupils. There is little likelihood
of these thinly inhabited districts being ever provided with endow-
ed schools.
Library and Friendly Society. — More attempts than one have
been made to get a parish library permanently established ; but lo-
cal circumstances have always proved unpropitious, and, after a
few years, the books collected have come to be divided among the
subscribers. A Friendly Society existed from 1799 till 1833, —
when it was thought prudent to dissolve it.
Poor and Parochial Funds, — A most pernicious change has
been going on in the habits and views of the poor ; the full conse-
quences of which may be anticipated, though as yet they are very
imperfectly developed. In 1817, only 7 were on the roll, and during
the subsequent fifteen years, the average number was 9r2j, whose
maintenance was derived from the collections, the interest of money
lodged in the bank, and a part of the principal. Now, there are
1 5 families and individuals on the roll, to whom the highest sum
given is 12s. and the lowest 3s. a month ; and, the lying money
having been all expended, the heritors have voluntarily assessed
themselves for three years in L. 25, L. 40, and L. 50 respectively.
In the beginning of 1832, the session found it necessary to decline
taking any farther management of the poor ; and satisfy them-
selves with distributing half of the collections, &c. 4o such as are not
on the roll, or require any extraordinary aid. No discovery hav-
ing been made of any means of giving employment to aged wo-
men, who formerly gained a sustenance by spinning, it must una-
voidably happen that applications for parochial assistance will en-
crease in number every year ; and it is quite obvious, that, when-
ever the management is left solely with the heritors, there will both
be a gradual diminution of the collections, and a more unhesitating
determination, on the part of the poor, to extort from their grasp
every farthing that it is possible to obtain.
Fairs. — No fair is held for the transaction of business; but on
26th July there is an assemblage of all the inhabitants, who sub-
scribe for horse and foot races, indulge in social intercourse, and
treat their children with toys and sweetmeats.
Inns, fyc. — In this parish, there are no fewer than 8 houses in which
spirituous or malt liquors are sold. In 1819, the Justices of the
upper ward issued most excellent regulations, requiring all appli-
cants for licenses to have certificates from their parish ministers.
4
CRAWFORDJOHN. 515
To these regulations, however, it is much to be regretted, the Jus-
tices themselves have not uniformly adhered.
Fuel. — Peats of various kinds can be easily got on many farms,
and are still used in considerable quantities by several families.
They are certainly expensive, and are perceived to be so by all
who keep accurate accounts, and form a proper estimate of labour ;
and therefore in time they will be less used. Coal is cheap and
more convenient for all purposes, — a cart of it containing between
9 and 10 cwt. costs 2s. at Glespin or Ridgeside in Douglas; and
the driving to the village costs 2s. 6d. more.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
From a register kept by one of the farmers in a centrical part
of the parish, I perceive that, from 1812 to 1835, inclusive, the
earliest day when he began sowing was 14th March 1821, and the
latest 4th April 1 827 ; that the earliest day when he ended his
sowing was 1st April 1828, and the latest 30th April 1827 ; that the
earliest day when he began reaping was 8th August 1826, and the
latest 16th September 1816; that the earliest when he finished
reaping was 2d September 1826, and the latest 28th October
1816. In 1762, the rental of Gilkerscleugh lands was L. 177,
15s. 6§d. ; in 1802 it was L. 522, 10s.; and in 1835 it is L. 1100.
I have seen a copy of a receipt of the Laird of Glespin, dated 13th
November 1694, for L. 5, 11s. 4d. Scots, half a year's rent for
Slimanford and Sheriff cleugh, which is 18s. 6§d. Sterling a-year
Now Sheriffcleugh is let for L. 80 ; Slimanford is let along with
Shawhead for L. 1 70, and is accounted the third of its value, so that
we have in 1694, 18s. 6|d. and in 1 835, L. 136, 13s. 4d.
The differences betwixt the present state of the parish and that
at the time when the former Account was written, are many and evi-
dent. In that Account, it is said there were about 20 farms ; now
there are 33, besides small pieces let at Abington, and 4 are join-
ed too-other so RS to make only 2. In it, 20 ploughs are said to
have been kept, which laboured merely •><> ;u : :s each, making in
all 600 acres; now, there are 114 horses; 620 bolls of oats are
sown, 36 of bear, 196 acres are in green crops, and 19, 140 stones of
rye-grass hay are raised. In it, the number of black-cattle is said
to have been considerable, — now, there are 666 milch cows, 403
young cows, and 31 bulls. At the time of the former Account, there
was no proprietor who had his lands separated by any fence from
those of his neighbour; now, not only is this in every instance done,
but there are only three farms in the least improved quarter, which
are not fenced off from each other ; and the rest are likewise sub-
516 LANARKSHIRE.
divided more or less, by several distinct and convenient enclo-
sures.
Dairy husbandry should be principally looked to, in the cultiva-
tion of the land, and cropping should be followed no longer than
is necessary for preparing the land to be laid out in pasture. No
return of oats or bear, during the currency of a lease, remunerates
the farmer. Turnips should be sown more extensively ; and the use
of bone dust enables every one to do this, while frost never destroys
them. And additional divisions of the land by fences will render it
quite convenient to eat off the turnips with sheep.
The great, expensive operations of straightening Blackburn and
two or three other streams, of draining " flow mosses," and of plant-
ing for shelter, ought to be executed under the eye of the pro-
prietors, and at their expense. Or, if it be imagined the planta-
tions might be injured from the carelessness of the tenants, let it
be a part of the agreement that, whatever trees any one may have
planted, shall be taken from him at a valuation at the end of his
lease. Let direct encouragement be given to the industrious and
enterprising, either in the form of a premium for every acre re-
claimed, or for every signal improvement introduced, or by a re-
newal of the lease, upon more moderate terms, than would be of-
fered by other competitors for the farm. Let the two proprietors,
who are most interested, exert themselves to have the coal road
made along the side of Glespin lane, and to meet the principal pa-
rish road a little below Eastertown ; from which, a mighty advan-
tage would accrue to the inhabitants in getting cheap coal, and an
equal advantage would be enjoyed by these proprietors themselves,
as the old coal road might then be shut up, and the flocks on Craw-
fordjohn, Mosscastle, and Andershaw farms would be permitted to
feed undisturbed by travellers. Let a stone bridge be thrown over
Duneaton below the village and towards Leadhills, and another
over Blackburn5 — a better road being made to meet the Glasgow
and Edinburgh r .-11 few causes for complaint about
roads would exist.
Prejudices in favour of local practices are fast dying away ; the
intelligent and cautious look anxiously around them, and can as-
certain what is most conducive to their own interest ; and were due
countenance given them, the proprietors might rest assured, there
are many at present in the parish, who, while contemplating, in the
first place, the welfare of themselves and families, will adopt such
views, and carry forward such measures, as shall finally promote the
improvement of their property.
June 1836. y
PARISH OF CARMICHAEL.
PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR,
THE REV. WILLIAM LAMB, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
— T«i« narish has retained the same name for time imme-
ADDENDUM TO PARISH OF CARMICHAEL.
Page 517, at the end of the first paragraph of the account of Carmichael, insert as
follows : the name of a farm stillxcalled Cross-ridge, clearly indicating the origin
f two stone pillars in the neighbourhood, which stood there for ages fixed in sockets •
Fthern, however, a few years ago, fell prostrate, and was broken "
OI tne pansn, assumeu m<= ocn**~
in the parish which still retain the names of saints in the Romish
calendar, such as St Michael's Well and Bog, now happily drained
and very productive : and Brides Close — evidently consecrated to
St Bride or Bridget.
Extent and Boundaries. — The extreme length of the parish in
a south-west and north-east direction, from near Mount Stuart,
in the parish of Douglas, to Millhill, in the parish of Pettinain, is
6 miles, and its extreme breadth, from the top of Tinto to the con-
fluence of the Clyde and Douglas Water, is very nearly 5 miles. Its
mean length and breadth may be reckoned 5 by 3^ miles ; and it
contains at least an area of 18 square miles. In Forrest's map
of the county of Lanark, the area is stated to be 18J square
miles. But, according to the measurement of the lands belong-
ing to the different proprietors, and which has been put into my
hands, the area does not much exceed 18 square miles. A line
drawn from the top of Tinto along the summit of its western
ridge, until it reaches the parish of Douglas, forms the boundary be-
tween it and Wiston parish on the south. A line drawn nearly at
right angles with the preceding, from the south-west point of the
parish, and terminating at Douglas Water below the coal-work,
LANARK. L 1
518 LANARKSHIRE.
divides it from Douglas on the west ; and Douglas Water is the
boundary between it and Lesmahagow on the north-west. The
Clyde, from its confluence with Douglas water to Millhill, divides
it from the parish of Lanark on the north. It is bounded by the
parishes of Pettinain and Covington on the east. The boundary
line by which the parish is surrounded, as exhibited on the map, is
very irregular.
The surface of the parish presents a very unequal and diversi-
fied aspect, the mountain range of Tinto looking down from a
commanding elevation upon the several hills and valleys which lie
at its base, and sending from its rocky caverns many tributary
streams, to the Clyde and Douglas- Water. Tinto, it has often
been said, signifies the hill of fire; but whether it was so called
from the fires which were kindled upon it at Beltane, or in the be-
ginning of May, in honour of some tutelary deity, or on whatever
other occasion, I do not presume to determine. The hills of a
secondary order are Carmichael, Drumalbin, Whitecastle, Cross-
ridge, and Stonehill, some of them rising to a considerable height,
though of a diminutive size, compared with Tinto. Very different
elevations have been assigned to Tinto. The difference may be
easily traced to the different points where the measurement com-
mences. The highest point of the cairn or heap of stones on the
summit is 1740 feet above the Clyde at Thankerton, and 2351
above the Clyde at the old bridge of Glasgow. Colonel Roy's ba-
rometrical measurement gave 2432 feet. As the lowest parts of
the parish are washed by the Clyde, the average elevation of the
whole must be considerably above 600 feet.
Topographical Appearances. — The general aspect of the parish
is rather hilly than mountainous. The intervening valleys and ac-
clivities have very different soils. The southern acclivities are ge-
nerally the most fertile. The land towards the Clyde is of a thin
sandy soil. In some parts of the parish, it is a pretty deep loam ;
but the greater proportion of the arable land is a clayey and wet
soil, resting on a substratum of cold impervious till, or ferruginous
clay, mixed with water-rolled stones of almost every description.
Unless a considerable depth of this subsoil be exposed to the me-
liorating influence of the sun and air, no beneficial improvements
can be made upon the surface. When it is turned up, lime
or some other earth should be mixed with it, in order to lessen
its adhesive quality. It is probable it may, some years hence, by
the operation of a subsoil plough, or some other means, be com-
CARMICHAEL. 519
pelled to contribute something more towards increasing the sub-
sistence of man and beast. There is a good deal of clayey soil,
resting on clay slate and greywacke slate, as productive as any
land in the parish. The reason is obvious, — the water is readi-
ly percolated through the fissures of the rock.
Hydrography. — This parish has for part of its boundary line,
as has been stated, the Clyde and Douglas Water, and is inter-
sected and watered by several burns or small rivulets, which have
their sources in the high range of hills which form its southern
boundary. Three of these streams, with their tributary rills, flow
into Douglas Water, and four into the Clyde. There is a suffi-
ciency of water-power for working all the thrashing-mills in the
parish, had the farms been otherwise divided, and the farm-houses
built in those localities where advantage might have been taken of
this power which Nature has so liberally afforded. There are
many fine springs in the parish, but I am not aware that any of
them have been chemically analysed. There is a natural jet d'eau
close by one of the rivulets, and the side of a morass, and which
throws up the finest sand. The average temperature of the springs,
I am inclined to think, must range between 45° and 47° Fahr. The
temperature of six or seven of them on Tinto, from near the top
to the base, was ascertained, 15th December 1836, when the tem-
perature of the atmosphere was 24, to be between 36° and 42°.
The temperature of the water must have been cooled by the at-
mosphere or the stones near the surface. At any rate, as the ex-
periment was made by a person not trained to scientific exactness,
I cannot vouch for its accuracy.
Geology and Mineralogy. — This parish contains abundant ma-
terials for the investigation of the geological student. Tinto
seems to belong to the same formation as the Pentland Hills. It
was surveyed by the late Dr Macknight, and the result of his sur-
vey was communicated to the Wernerian Society, and published
in the second volume of their Transactions, in 1818. To this sur-
vey I beg to refer, as containing many accurate observations,
and some probable conjectures concerning the internal structure
of the mountain, and the formation on which it rests. As some
quarries have been recently opened on the south and west side
for metal to the roads, greater facilities are now afforded for a mi-
neralogical survey. A shaft was also dug a few years ago, to a
considerable depth, through a vein of heavy spar, in the Howgate
Mouth, in the expectation of finding lead ore ; but the search was
520 LANARKSHIRE.
at last relinquished, though the heavy spar, being of the same kind
with that at Leadhills, indicated, in the opinion of the workmen,
the vicinity of lead ore. Leaving it to more skilful geologists to
assign to their proper epochs or formations the different strata of
the parish, I shall mention a few of the more conspicuous ones.
The greater part of the parish seems to consist of the old red sand-
stone rock, forming an excellent material for building either houses
or dry stone fences, and sometimes vulgarly called ruble or rag-
stone. It forms a great part of Carmichael, Whitecastle, and
Drumalbin Hills. The next rock is compact felspar and felspar
porphyry. On the hill which lies north of the manse, the felspar
porphyry is found in juxtaposition with the old red sandstone,
in an overlying position, both rocks inclining to the north-west.
In the Crossridge hill, or rising ground to the south-east of the
manse, there is a stratum of clay slate, vulgarly called camstone,
passing into greywacke slate, dipping to the north-west, at an
angle of 35°, under a conglomerate sandstone. In ascending the
rivulet which flows between the two hills, a stratum of greywacke
slate is seen dipping under another stratum of red sandstone.
Stonehill consists wholly of the new sandstone formation, and con-
tains an excellent quarry, from which are carried annually many
tons of hewn stone. In the western extremity of the parish, the
independent coal formation occurs, including many valuable seams
of coal. In the indurated clay, in the limestone and sandstone,
dipping under the lowest coal seam, which crops out near the
bridge over Ponfeigh burn, are found in great abundance bivalves
of the genus Productus, also Crinoidce, and vegetable remains.
The valley or plain bounded by Tinto, Crossridge, and Drumalbin
Hills, consists of a very deep alluvial deposit, composed of gravel
and clay, or what is called till, containing water-rolled stones of al-
most every description. One very large block, near the Side farm-
house, laid bare by the action of the burn, detached from some
quartzy rock, contains many curious organic remains. In a stone
fence near the church, is found a large block of gneiss, which has
probably been carried by a current of water, and deposited in the
alluvial soil, as no rock of that formation is to be found within
a great distance. Near Douglas Water are several alluvial de-
posits, consisting of rounded hills or ridges of sand or gravel,
lying in the direction of east and west, and nearly parallel to the
Tinto range.
Before quitting the geology of the parish, the writer of this ac-
CARMICHAEL. 521
count cannot resist the temptation of remarking, that some of the
theories concerning the past and future state of the earth, formed
as they have been on too limited an induction, are ingenious and
amusing, and may terminate in the establishment of one grand and
satisfactory theory. The inference which has been drawn from
the absence of animal remains in the primitive formations, and from
the fossil remains, in the secondary and transition formations, of
many species of animals now extinct, that the earth existed long
before the creation of man, is at least equally warrantable as the
hypothesis of an ingenious speculator, concerning the indefinite per-
fectibility and destinies of the human race, that the earth, after un-
dergoing some great changes, may become the habitation of a race
of intelligent beings, as superior to man as he is to its present irra-
tional animals.
Zoology. — The zoology of the parish is not entitled to much
notice, being such as usually characterizes the higher and inland
districts of Scotland. The black and red grouse are abundant.
The pheasant has been lately introduced. In the plantations
within the pleasure-grounds of Carmichael and Eastend, the com-
mon singing -birds are very numerous. Their musical notes, how-
ever delightful, scarcely compensate the depredations which they
commit on the garden fruitage. It would be easy to furnish a
complete list of all the animals which either constantly frequent,
or occasionally visit the parish ; but an enumeration of this kind,
containing the provincial and zoological names, could not be very
useful or interesting. The mention of a few will be sufficient.
Blackbird, Turdus merula Brown-linnet, Fringilla cannabina
Thrush, Turdus musicus Mountain-Linnet, Fringilla raontana
Bullfinch, Pyrrhula vulgaris Goldfinch, Fringilla carduelis
Chaffinch, Fringilla Ccelebs Green-linnet, Coccothraustes chloris.
In the pastoral and less cultivated parts of the parish, the ears
of the shepherd are delighted with the shrill notes of the
Curlew, Numenius arquata Green-plover, Charadrius pluvialis.
Lapwing, Vanellus cristatus
The banks of the streamlets are frequented by the
Water-ousel, Cinclus aquaticus Yellow-wagtail, Motacilla flava -
Sandpiper, Totanus Hypoleucos Heron, Ardea cinerea
Blue- wagtail, Motacilla caerulea Snipe, Scolopax Gallinago.
The Clyde, Douglas Water, and their tributary streams are
well stored with
Trout, Salmo Fario Eel, Anguilla vulgaris
Pike, Esox Lucius Perch, Perca fluviatilis.
Botany. — The botany of this parish is closely allied to that of
the Pentlands, comprehending a range of altitude from 700 to
522 LANARKSHIRE.
2300 feet above the sea level. A few of the rarer plants are spe-
cified.
Bull-rush, Scirpus lacustris, in the Field gentian, Gentiana campestris
Clyde Cowslip or paigle, Primula veris, Car-
Buck-bean, Menyanthes trifoliata michael Parks
Grass of Parnassus, Parnassia palustris Red bilberry, Vaccinium vitis-Idea, near
Marsh cinquefoil, Comarura palustre summit of Tinto
Chara vulgaris, near Redmire Cloudberry, Rubus Chamaemorus
Sheep's scabious, Jasione montana, near Alpine club- moss, Lycopodium alpinum
Netherton Iceland lichen, Cetraria Islandica.
John, Third Earl of Hyndford, between the years of 1740 and
1760, added much to the beauty of his pleasure-grounds, by the
introduction of foreign trees, of which many still survive as mo-
numents of his elegant taste. The pines are magnificent and
beautiful.
Silver fir, Pinus picea Hemlock spruce, Pinus Canadensis
Black spruce, Pinus'nigra Cedar of Lebanon, Pinus Cedrus
White spruce, Pinus alba Tulip-tree, Liriodendron tulipifera.
Balm of Gilead pine, Pinus balsamea
The aged and lofty trees about Carmichael House, chiefly of
an exotic kind, indicate an old baronial residence, and beget feel-
ings of regret that it should remain unoccupied. *
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Maps, Charters, fyc. — The writer of this Account is not aware of
the existence of any separate history of the parish, either in printer
manuscript, except what is contained in the last Statistical Account,
by his late very respectable friend and predecessor, the Rev. Robert
Inglis. The parish does not appear to have been the scene of any im-
portant events, either of a civil or military nature, sufficient to attract
notice, or to obtain a place in the page of history. The best map of
the parish is contained in Forrest's map of the county. Each pro-
prietor, I believe, has a separate plan and survey of his own lands,
containing not only a description of the boundaries and extent, but
also of the kinds of soil. In Carmichael and Westraw Houses, be-
longing to the principal proprietor arid patron of the parish, there are
several valuable papers, and a few pictures of potentates and other
personages, who acted their parts on the theatre of the world, dur-
ing the first half of the last century, — obtained a considerable
share of admiration and applause,-*-and secured for their names
and deeds, by the pen of the historian, a more lasting remem-
brance than could be accomplished by the pencil of the artist.
The armoury of Carmichael House contained a great variety of
* All the animals and plants which have been specified in the above article, have
come under my own notice, while in company with my friend, the Rev. Dr Thomas
Aitken, to whose assistance I am indebted.
CARMICHAEL. 523
arms, of curious construction and beautiful workmanship. After
the succession of the Carmichaels of Mauldslie to the estate and
titles, they were removed to Mauldslie Castle ; and upon the suc-
cession of the Anstruthers of Elie, they found a receptacle in Elie
House in Fife. — Sic transit gloria mundi.
Beside charters and other papers in Carmichael House, there
are in Westraw House, twenty- three folio volumes, of very inte-
resting correspondence between the late John, Third Earl of
Hyndford, and different Courts. The information they contain is
interesting to all who have a taste for reading the transactions
of the corps diplomatique, during a considerable portion of his
Lordship's life, and may be useful to some future historian of that
period.
Eminent Men. — Under the head of eminent characters, con-
nected with the parish, John Earl of Hyndford, to whom allusion
has been made, has a just claim to be ranked in the first place.
He was born, according to the last Statistical Account, in this pa-
rish, but according to Douglas's Peerage, in Edinburgh, 15th
April 1701, and after occupying many eminent stations, being
several times a representative of royalty both in the church and
state, he died at Carmichael House, 19th July 1767, having com-
pleted his sixty-sixth year. The distinguished appointments which
he held, and the honours conferred upon him, afford an incontesti-
ble proof that his talents as a statesman were of the highest order.
He was chosen several times one of the sixteen representatives of
the Scottish peerage, and was appointed Lord Lieutenant of the
county of Lanark, and twice Lord High Commissioner to the
General Assembly in 1739 and 1740. As Envoy Extraordinary
and Plenipotentiary in 1741 to the King of Prussia, his mediation
between that monarch and the Queen of Hungary and Bohemia was
successful in terminating their differences by a treaty of peace,
signed at Breslaw 1st June 1742. His next appointment as
ambassador was to the Court of Russia in 1744 — where he con-
tinued till 1749, and was instrumental in settling the peace of
Aix-la-Chapelle. After his return to Britain in 1750, he was sworn
a Privy- Councillor, and appointed one of the Lords of the Bed-
Chamber — but was soon despatched as Ambassador to the Court
of Vienna. He held this appointment from 1752 till 1764, when
he was appointed Vice- Admiral of Scotland. He spent the re-
mainder of his life at his house in this parish, enjoying the im-
provements he had made upon his estate, and still projecting and
524 LANARKSHIRE.
carrying on additional improvements until the day of his death.
From the improvements which he completed upon his estates, both
in this and the adjoining parishes, and from plans which he con-
templated, but which he left unexecuted, it is evident that he must
have possessed very enlarged and comprehensive views. They were
in advance of the age in which he lived, and the plans which he
formed and completed, exhausted more than the rental of his.
estates. There were enclosed and subdivided about 1200 Scotch
acres, and the stone and earthen fences were said to measure thirty-
five miles. The inclosures, of various dimensions, were surround-
ed by belts of plantation, and ornamented, according to the taste
of that time, with clumps of trees of different sorts. Though now
much thinned by the ravages of time, and the axe of the forester,
there is still a sufficient remainder to attest the correct design and
taste of the contriver. Many thousands of trees have since been
planted by his successors, and by which the beauty and value of
the estate have been greatly increased.
In a Statistical Account of the parish it may be interesting, before
finishing the different branches of its civil history, to exhibit a ta-
bular view of the successive generations of the family of Carmichael
from 1350 to the present year. From William de Carmichael, men-
tioned in a charter of the lands of Ponfeigh in 1850, to Sir Wynd-
ham Carmichael Anstruther, the present proprietor, in 1837, in-
clusive, there have been twenty-two generations, during a period
of 486 years, each generation having had an average occupancy of
twenty-two years.
Their names are as follows : 1. William de Carmichael, 1350 ;
2. John de Carmichael, 1388; 3. William de Carmichael, 1410;
4. Sir John de Carmichael, 1422 ; 5. William de Carmichael, 1437 ;
6. Sir John de Carmichael, 1485, of Nethertown of Carmichael ;
7. William Carmichael, 1509, of Cruickitstane ; S.William Car-
michael of Carmichael, 1532, Overtown and Nethertown ; 9. John
Carmichael, 1540; 10. Sir John Carmichael, 1580, of Wray and
Longherdmanstown ; 11. Sir Hugh Carmichael, 1593, married
Abigail daughter of William Baillie of Lamington ; 12. Sir John
Carmichael, 1619; 13. Sir James Carmichael, 1627, of Hyndford,
raised to the Peerage .by Charles I. in 1647 — descended from
Walter of Hyndford and Park, of Westraw and of Nova Scotia ;
14. John, second Lord Carmichael, 1672, created first Earl of
Hyndford in 1701, Viscount Inglisberry and Nemphlar; 15.
James, second Earl of Hyndford, 1710; 16. John, third Earl of
CARMICHAEL. 525
Hyndford, 1727; 17. John, fourth Earl of Hyndford, 1767; 18.
Thomas, fifth Earl of Hyndford, 1788; 19. Andrew, sixth and last
Earl of Hyndford, 1811; 20. Sir John Carmichael Anstruther,
1817; 21." Sir John Carmichael Anstruther, 1818; 22. Sir Wind-
ham Carmichael Anstruther, 1831.
The other land'proprietors are the Right Honourable Lord Dou-
glas, and Maurice Carmichael, Esq. of Eastend. The valued
and real rents of the three proprietors are as follows, viz.
Sir W. Carmichael Anstruther's valued rent L. 1266 13 4
Lord Douglas's do. 786 13 4
Mr Carmichael's, including Eastend and Lochlyoch, 266 13 4
£72320 0 0
The aggregate real rent is L. 4591.
Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers do not extend
farther back than 1694. There are eight volumes in the posses-
sion of the session-clerk. The register of births and baptisms ap-
pears to have been pretty regularly kept ; no register of deaths has
been kept. The record containing an account of the administra-
tion of church discipline is filled, at an early period, with more
minute details of scandal than is consistent with the taste and prac-
tice of the present times. No good purpose can be served by mi-
nutely recording or transmitting to posterity the facts and circum-
stances concerning cases of scandal. The preservation of records
of scandal may furnish the malignant and the envious with matter
of reproach against the innocent posterity of the persons whose
misconduct is recorded, but will seldom afford much useful infor-
mation. The kirk-session of this parish seems to have been guided
by such enlightened views during the incumbency of the late mi-
nister. Evidence in cases of discipline must be taken in writing
at the time, in order to ensure a just judgment ; but it is question-
able whether the minute record and transmission of such evidence
tend to edification.
Antiquities. — Except the perpendicular stones or crosses, of
which mention has already been made, and the remains of a camp
or station in the south-west corner of the parish, there are no other
antiquities which deserve notice. A large stone coffin was disco-
vered a few years ago, near the bridge over Douglas Water, but
nothing was found in it; it was constructed of sandstone. For the
information of the lovers of antiquarian research? it may be also
mentioned, that, in 1834, some workmen, when quarrying stones
for rebuilding a dry stone wall around the plantation of Stonehill,
526 LANARKSHIRE.
Found two gold rings or clasps, weighing 29 sovereigns, which were
sold to a jeweller in Glasgow, but afterwards re-purchased by Lord
Douglas, in whose possession they remain. The gold is very
pure, but the workmanship is not very refined. If any respectable
antiquary feels desirous of gratifying his curiosity, and of deter-
mining the use to which they were intended to be applied, he needs
not fear a refusal from his Lordship to be permitted to see them.
Modern Buildings. — There are no modern buildings in the parish
which demand particular notice. The plan of the mansion-house of
Carrnichael was formed on a very magnificent scale, but only the two
wings, connected by a long gallery or corridor, were finished. They
contain a great deal of accommodation. The mansion-house of
Eastend is a more modern building, and very commodious. The
farm-houses which have been recently built are very neat, and con-
tain much more comfortable accommodation than those which were
occupied forty or fifty years ago. There are two very good grain
mills in the parish, and the only astriction imposed on the tenants
is an obligation to carry their grain to one of the mills of the pro-
prietor, whether in the parish or not.
III. — POPULATION.
The population, according to Dr Webster, in 1755, was, 899
When the last Statistical Account was drawn up, it had decreased to 781
In 1811 it had increased to . . . 952
1821, .... . .963
1831, , . . .956
At this last period there were . . . 183 families.
Employed in agriculture, . . .66
in trade, ... 54
Not included in these two classes, . . 64
480 males ; 476 females.
In 1835, 180 families, . . 944 souls.
Average number of persons under 5 years . . 110
between 5 and 15, . . 270
15 and 30, . . 239
30 and 50, . . 184
50 and 70, . 107
70 and 80, . . 23
80 and 90, - 10
90 and 100, 1
bachelors and widowers, above 50, . 22
unmarried women above 45, . i 38
Illegitimate births during the last three years, 4.
There are no towns or villages, but two hamlets ; the one con-
taining about 140, and the other 86 persons. The average num-
ber of births is 24; average number of marriages, 8. The average
number of deaths for the last six years is 10. The average num-
ber of marriages cannot be accurately ascertained, as one of the
parties frequently belongs to another parish.
CARM1CHAEL. 527
There are only three proprietors of land in the parish, as has
been already mentioned. Mr Carmichael of Eastend is the only
resident proprietor.
There are two females whose mental faculties are weak, and one
of them dumb ; one young man, deaf and dumb, who was taught
at the Deaf and Dumb Institution of Edinburgh, and who is very
active.
Character of the People, fyc. — The habits of the people, in point
of dress and mode of living, have been greatly improved within
the last five-and-twenty years. They enjoy in a considerable
degree the comforts and advantages of society. In proof of
their intelligence, activity, and sobriety, I may appeal to the
fact, that several of them have secured a competency, and almost
all of them live in easy and comfortable circumstances, to which
their fathers were utter strangers. For their moral and religious
character I appeal to their regular church-going habits, which
have attracted the notice of all strangers, and which have been the
source of much satisfaction to me, and I trust, of some benefit to
themselves. There is a commendable attachment, which many of
them cherish towards the parish where they were born and edu-
cated, and which displays itself in leaving other parishes, where,
they reside, to join in the celebration of the Lord's Supper, in the
church where they first made a public profession of their Christian
faith and hope. Perhaps the feeling may be resolved into a wish
to accompany their fathers' family, where they had been first taught
the value of the privilege, and the obligation of the duty of ob-
serving the sacred ordinance.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — The parish contains 9252 Scots acres, or nearly
1 1,631 Imperial acres, that is, rather more than eighteen square
miles, as has been already stated. Though I do not vouch for
the perfect accuracy of the following subdivisions of the land, into
arable, pasture, and plantation, yet I believe it is a near approxi-
mation,—
4702 acres arable, including watered meadow grounds,
3815 'pasture, including hill and dale,
735 plantation.
There are some hundred acres which have remained, and will re-
main, uncultivated, because there is not the faintest prospect of
any return for the outlay of capital. Some high and sterile grounds
in the parish might be improved by belts and clumps of trees, of a
hardy kind, which would afford shelter to the sheep and young
528 LANARKSHIRE.
cattle which pasture on them. By beginning near the base, and
gradually ascending with a plantation, a hill of considerable alti-
tude may be covered to the summit. There are some lands in the
parish which might be drained, and others which might be brought
into a state of greater cultivation either for cropping or pasturing,
did the tenant's capital, length of leases, and encouragement from
the proprietors, permit them to entertain the hope of being suffi-
ciently compensated for the primary expense. When a tenant
wants capital to carry on necessary improvements, finds difficulty
in paying the stipulated rent, and solicits a deduction, perhaps it
would be better ultimately, both for him and the proprietor, that
the deduction should be given in lime, bone-dust, &c. for increasing
the productive powers of the farm. When a stranger outbids an
old tenant, with a view to get possession, and then soon complains
of the high rent, and solicits a reduction, the equity and justice of
listening to his complaint may be justly called in question.
There is no land in the parish in a state of undivided common.
The trees growing in the parish, beside the pines already men-
tioned, are, oak, ash, elm, plane, beech, alder, poplar, birch, horse-
chestnut, &c. They, are properly managed under the direction
of a forester.
Rent of Land. — The rent of arable land, according to the na-
ture of the soil, is very various, from L.3, 10s. or L.4, to 10s. per
Scots acre. The average rent, without urging any claims to ac-
curacy, may be stated as follows, viz.
Arable, 4702 Scots acres, at 1 7s. 6d. - L. 41 14 5 0
Pasture, 3815 2s. 6d. 47617 6
L.4591 2 6
The grazing of a cow or ox, either for dairy produce or the but-
cher, varies, according to the kind of pasture, from L.3 to L.4
during the summer season, and of a sheep about 5s.
Wages. — The wages of full-grown men-servants about L. 10 or
L. 12 a-year, and of women-servants, L. 6 or L. 7. Masons and
carpenters used to get 2s. 6d. but last year they demanded 3s. a-
day, of ten hours. Labourers at other work get 9s. or 9s. 6d.
a-week. A rood of mason work, when the materials are furnished,
costs L. 1, 16s. or L.2.
Live-Stock. — The common breed of sheep is the black-faced,
with a few Cheviots, and of cattle the Ayrshire kind. The horses
are chiefly of the Clydesdale breed, highly valued, and too well
CARMICHAEL. 529
known to require any description or commendation from the writer
of this account.
Husbandry. — The old practice of dividing the arable ground
into two divisions, the croft or infield and the outfield, of manur-
ing and cropping, without interruption, the croft land, and of taking
two or three white crops off the outfield, anil then allowing it to
rest and produce what grass might grow from the seeds which were
lodged in it, or might be carried to it by the winds, has been long
since abandoned. The same course of cultivation is not adopted
by all the farmers. The nature of the soil, and the limited re-
sources in obtaining manure, except what is produced in the pa-
rish, forbid the adoption of a four years rotation of crops. Per-
haps in no situation is such a rotation commendable. Some of
the farmers take one, and sometimes two white crops, when pas-
ture, with or without a top-dressing, is broken up ; then a green
crop of potatoes and of turnips, partly consumed by sheep ; then a
crop of oats, and then hay ; and last of all, pasture for two years.
Some of them are bound by their leases to a six years rotation of
crops, on land kept in a regular state of cultivation, and of course
one-sixth part should always be in green crop. When the land is
damp, with a northern exposure, two white crops are sometimes
taken, and then it lies in pasture four years.
Recent Improvements. — The raising of turnips, with bone manure,
and consuming them with sheep, on ground of a light soil, or not
very accessible with heavy carriages, is a great improvement, which
has been recently adopted, and, it is hoped, will soon be generally
adopted. Very considerable improvements were made upon the
estate of Carmichael from 1819 to 1831, under the management
of the late Colonel Robert Anstruther, in the way of draining and
fencing, — 23,390 yards of drains, from five to seven feet deep, being
cut, filled with stones, and covered, — and 19,430 yards of dry stone
fences having been built, from 9d. to Is. 8d. per yard, the average
expense being Is. 2d. per yard ; 70 acres of very swampy ground
within the inclosures were thoroughly drained, cropped, and sown
with grass seeds, and now yield excellent pasture ; 33 acres got at
the rate of 30 bolls of lime per acre, and 37 were laid down in
grass without lime. The difference is very perceptible. Within these
few years, the farms belonging to the Douglas estate have been
much improved, by the erection of commodious dwelling-houses and
offices, and by drainage and fences.
Anticipated Improvements. — There is a great deal of ground in
530 LANARKSHIRE.
the parish which might be rendered more productive, though it
would certainly be unwise for tenants to bestow much labour or ex-
pense on improvements towards the end of their leases. But when
the leases are renewed, let the tenants be compelled, by an obliga-
tory clause, or induced by some encouragement held out to them,
to improve those parts of their farms, which are susceptible of im-
provement, by draining, liming, or deep ploughing, with a subsoil
plough, or otherwise, and, before the expiration of their leases,
many acres, saturated with stagnant water, or covered with rank
heath, will be converted into dry fields, producing rich crops of
grain or close herbage.
Quarries and Mines. — Beside the coal seams, there are quarries
of limestone and sandstone. The coal seams form an angle with
the horizon of 30° to 35°, and dip to the north-west. The coal is
now sold at 9d. the load, of twelve pecks of Linlithgow measure,
or rather more than 2J cwt. The cart load of four loads common-
ly exceeds 10 cwt. The burnt unslaked limestone is sold at Is.
6d. per boll of about six bushels. The hewn sandstone for plinth
and rybats costs 7d. or 8d. a foot. Between the coal seams and
sandstone are found thick strata of slate-clay and bituminous shale,
containing ironstone of different shapes and dimensions; but whe-
ther the ore is sufficiently rich and plentiful to encourage the
working of it, has not been ascertained.
Average gross amount of Raw Produce. — In venturing to give an
estimate of the amount of raw produce, I wish the following state-
ment to be considered rather as a matter of opinion, founded partly
on returns made to me, than as a matter of fact. The data are
furnished, and if any person who is acquainted with the soil and
climate of the parish, think the amount either too great or too
small, he may apply the necessary correction to the error.
904 bolls of oats sown, yielding nearly an average of 6 bolls, or 36
bushels = 5424 bolls, at 15s. per boll, . L 4068 0 0
53 bolls of barley, or bear, 48 bushels = 424 bolls, at 18s. per boll, 381 0 0
19 bolls of pease, 4 bushels to the boll, a very precarious crop, yield-
ing, some years, little more than what the straw is worth, but
call the increase L. 3 for each boll sown, . . 57 0 0
97 acres of potatoes, yielding 40 bolls of 4 cwt. each, but for some
vears past the average produce has been probably lower, at 5s.
per boll, . . . . 970 0 0
120 acres of turnips, at L. 5 per acre, . 600
200 acres rye-grass hay, about 140 stones of 22 Ibs. per acre, at L. 3, 840 0 0
140 acres meadow hay, some watered and some not, at L. 2, 10s. per
acre, . . . • . . 350 0 (
2270 sheep at 6s. each, . . . 681 <
514 cows, grazing summer and winter, L. 4 each, . . 20^6 <
399 queys, from one to two years old, but as several of them are
grazed during summer in rented inclosures, perhaps L. 1 is a suffi-
cient average for each, ' „•'• • • * *®® ^ ^
CARMICHAEL. 531
112 horses, partly grazed when not working, say L. 2 each, . L. 224 0 0
37 colts, from one to two years old. The same observation applies
to them as to the queys, call the average 30s. . . 55 10 0
The revenue arising from the thinning and felling of trees not known.
Coal and lime quarries, . . 230 0 0
L. 10911 10 0
From the above gross amount of produce, ought to be deduct-
ed the value of the seed, whether grain, potatoes, turnips, rye-
grass and clover, the grain consumed by horses, the expense of
servants' food and wages, and several other items, and the remain-
der will be the amount of sales for rent, interest of capital, and re-
muneration to the tenant for management.
Manufactures. — The same tan-work, which was begun nine years
before the last Statistical Account was written, is still skilfully
and successfully carried on. One of the partners of the original firm
still survives, with his mental faculties active and unimpaired. The
currying of leather is also carried on with similar skill and success.
There is a foundery, which was established several years ago by Mr
James Paterson, at Carmichael-mill. Most of the iron work for
thrashing-mills and other machinery in the neighbourhood, is cast
by the proprietor, who has a talent for contriving, and hands for exe-
cuting, work of this kind, surpassed by few in the same profession.
There are thirty-two weavers, including apprentices and journey-
men.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Market-Town, §-c. — The nearest market-town and post-office is
Lanark, five miles distant from the church. There are about
seven or eight miles of turnpike road, and upwards of twenty miles
of parish roads, kept in very good repair. Bridges are thrown over
the streams which cross the parish roads, in a certain proportion,
out of the county funds, and out of the parish road fund.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is nearer the eastern
than the western extremity of the parish. The most distant house
is about four miles from the church. The church was built in-
1750, has been often repaired, is at present in a good state of re-
pair, and can accommodate between 400 and 500 persons. The
sittings are all free, as should always be the case in country
churches.
The manse was built in the same year with the church, and a
few years ago received a very handsome and commodious addition.
The glebe contains about ten acres, and may be worth L. 24.
The soil is naturally bad, but it has been greatly improved. The
532 LANARKSHIRE.
stipend is L. 194, 14s. 6d. and 52 bolls, 1 firlot, 2 pecks, and 2
lippies grain, two-thirds meal, and one-third barley. Besides the
parish church, there is no other church or chapel of any descrip-
tion within the bounds of the parish. In 1815, when I first visited
the parish, there were 48 Dissenters; in 1836 there were 18,
including an Irish family, lately come to the parish, 6 belong to
the Relief, 3 to the United Secession Church, and 9 to the
Reformed Presbytery. All the rest attend the Established Church.
The average number of communicants is about 400.
List of Ministers of Carmichael from 1569 to 1837. — Mr
Ninian Swan, formerly exhorter, settled Beltane (1st May) 1569;
Mr Robert Landels, 1589; Mr John Symington, 1597; Mr
James Heighe, 1607; Mr Robert Nairne, settled 1636, demitted
1639; Mr Alexander Livingstone, settled 1640, translated to
Biggar, 1646; Mr James Semple, admitted 1649; Mr John
Hamilton, admitted 1650 ; Mr Alexander Fauldes, presented by
Archbishop of Glasgow, J666; Mr Peter Peirson, 1670; Mr
John Hamilton, indulged by Privy Council, 1672; Mr William
Somerville, 1672; Mr John Ferrat, 1675; Mr Lachlan Ross,
presented by Marquis of Douglas, 1687; Mr James Gartshore,
called 15th November 1693, ordained 1694, died 29th Novem-
ber 1745; Mr William Millar, called 30th June 1747, ordained
23d September 1747, died 2d February 1772; Mr Robert
Inglis, presented by Earl of Hyndford, 14th June, ordained 25th
February 1773, died 14th January 1814; Mr William Lamb,
presented by Andrew, Earl of Hyndford, and translated from
Pettinain 16th September 1814.
Education. — There are two schools in the parish, the one pa-
rochial, and the other partly supported by a voluntary contribution
of L. 10 per annum, by the two heritors of the district where the
school is situated. In the parochial school, very ably and suc-
cessfully conducted by Mr Lithgow and two assistants, are taught
various branches of education, such as Greek, Latin, French,
English, geography, mathematics, drawing, &c. This flourishing
academy, where 32 boarders, besides day-scholars, are taught in
the most approved method, has, by the liberal encouragement of
the heritors, and by exertions and expense on the part of Mr
Lithgow himself, accommodations superior to what are found in
most establishments of the kind. It had a small beginning, but
the success with which it has been crowned, is a proof that great
and useful achievements may be accomplished by a spirit of en-
CAKMICHAEL. 533
terprise and perseverance. The attention which is bestowed, not
only in carrying forward the literary studies of the pupils, but upon
their religious and moral training, their health and their comfort
in every respect, is deserving of the highest commendation. There
have been pupils attending the academy from different parts of
the three civilized quarters of the earth. The salary attached to
the parochial schoolmaster is L. 32, with more than the legal ac-
commodations. The emoluments of the other schoolmaster con-
sist of L. 10, with house and garden, and school fees.
The school fees, per quarter, are for English, 2s. 6d. ; English
and writing, 3s. ; arithmetic, 3s. 6d. ; English grammar, 4s. ; Latin,
5s. The amount of fees received by the parochial teacher is about
L. 10 per annum. There are none between six and fifteen years, so
far as I know, who cannot read or write ; and none above fifteen who
cannot read, with two or three exceptions. The people are alive
to the benefits of education, and every facility is afforded to those
who are in straitened circumstances, either by the liberality and for-
bearance of the teachers, or by aid out of the public fund. The
number of scholars, exclusive of boarders, attending the two schools,
and some neighbouring schools in adjoining parishes, varies from
130 to 140, being one-seventh part of the population.
There are no parochial or circulating libraries in the parish,
no schools of arts or mechanics' institutions, no public reading
rooms, or newspapers printed or published ; but several of the lat-
ter are read. Indeed, some one or other of them finds access to al-
most every family, and it is to be feared, in some instances, is a
substitute for a more profitable species of reading.
Savings Bank. — There are no charitable or Friendly Societies in
the parish ; but a parish Savings bank was established in 1814, and
has been productive of very beneficial effects. It has always been
under the management of the writer of this account. It has not
been limited to deposits from servants and mechanics within the
parish, but has received deposits from several in other parishes.
The present amount of deposits is upwards of L. 1800. Last year
about L. 290 were deposited, and rather more than the same sum
withdrawn. The depositors are considerably above a hundred
in number, and all are of the description of persons for whose be-
nefit parish banks are intended.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons
receiving parochial aid, not including those who are occasionally
relieved, seldom exceeds 12. The sum allowed monthly to each
LANARK. M m
534 LANARKSHIRE.
varies, according to the circumstances of the individual, from
4s. to 6s. Poor families or individuals, who are not in the list of
paupers, receive at least tvyice a year, and sometimes oftener,
some small aid from the poor's fund. The collections in the
church amount to L. 25 a-year, and the heritors are always ready
to give an equal or greater sum, as the situation of the poor may
require it. The interest of L. 115, the collections in church, and
the voluntary contributions from the heritors, have hitherto been
sufficient to meet all demands. The expenditure last year was
L.54.
Ale-houses. — There are only two ale-houses in the parish; they
are occupied by toll-bar keepers ; and necessity for either of them
is questionable. They are of no use to the parish, but enable the
tenants of the toll-bars to pay a higher rent to the road trustees.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Very great improvements have been made since the former Sta-
tistical Account was drawn up. Much greater crops of grain,
turnips, and potatoes, are raised. More work is now done by one
man and a pair of horses, than was formerly done by a plough-
man, a goad-man or driver, and four horses. The dairy is better
managed and more productive. A spirit of improvement is in ac-
tive operation, and if it be not checked by some untoward and un-
locked for convulsion, it is possible that a generation fifty years
hence, when a new Statistical Account may be required, may
wonder that people of the present day should have been ignorant
of their discoveries.
November 1838.
PARISH OF PETTINAIN.
PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. JOHN VARY, MINISTER.*
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — THE derivation of the name of this parish is, in a great
measure, matter of conjecture. The spelling in the more ancient
charters is Pedynane or Petynane, while in the modern records it
is generally Pittinine or Pettinain. Much stress, however, is not
to be placed on the mode of spelling, as on the communion cups,
both bearing date 1696, it is found differently spelt. The name,
says Chalmers in his Caledonia, whatever be its true form, may
be derived from the British Peithynan, signifying a clear plat or
space, or from the British Ped-y-nant^ signifying the lower end of
a ravine through which a brook flows. The former of these de-
rivations appears the more probable, as there is a considerable ex-
tent of nearly level land, of excellent quality, stretching to the
north of the village of the same name, which was very probably
cleared while the adjoining ground was covered with wood ; and
this supposition is strengthened by a circumstance, likewise mention-
ed by Chalmers, that David I. granted to Nicolas, his clerk, a ca-
rucate of land, in the forest of Pedynane, with the usual right of
common of pasture.
Extent and Boundaries. — The figure of the parish is rather ir-
regular, but may be more properly described as rectangular than
in any other way, being nearly 3 miles in length, and 2J in breadth.
It is bounded on the south, by Covington ; on the west, by Car-
michael ; on the north-west, by a small portion of Lanark ; on the
north, by Carstairs and Carnwath; and on the east, by Libber-
ton. From the four last mentioned parishes, it is separated by the
river Clyde. Adjoining the river, there is a considerable tract of
haugh or holm land, so very level that frequently in winter, after
heavy rains in the south, and sometimes even in summer, it is co-
* Drawn up by the Rev. George Dickson, late incumbent of this parish, now mi-
nister of Kilrenny.
536 LANARKSHIRE.
vered with water to a considerable depth, and the mud which is
then deposited serves greatly to enrich it. At such times, the
river has much the appearance of an arm of the sea, and occasions
much damage to the corn crop, completely destroying it if in the
shot-blade, and leaving so much sand upon the pasture, as to ren-
der it unfit for cattle, until again washed off by the rain. The
ground rises by a gentle acclivity from the river, presenting an
unequal surface ; but in general it is well cultivated, and subdivided
into different enclosures.
Topographical Appearances. — The only high ground deservino1
any notice is a ridge, which, commencing in the parish of Coving-
ton in the south, runs in a north-westerly direction through the
parish, until it terminates in the west end of it, where it rises to the
greatest height, about 500 feet above the bed of the river. The
highest point of the ridge is named Cairn-gryffe, while the other
portions are styled Westraw and Swaites hills, the one opposite
the mansion-house of Westraw, and the other attached to a farm
of the same name, situated at the bottom of the hill.
Climate. — The climate may rather be represented as moist than
otherwise, and the sudden changes of the temperature of the at-
mosphere from hot to cold, and from cold to hot, particularly in
the spring, are not unfrequent ; and often give rise to colds, sore
throats, &c. During the spring months, cold easterly winds fre-
quently prevail, which produce a withering effect upon the pasture,
the braird, and the blossom of the small fruit ; but the dense fogs
which prevail upon the east coast very rarely extend so far to the
west. The highest winds are from the south and south-west,
which is particularly indicated by the inclination of trees planted
in exposed situations, being uniformly found to be toward the
north-east. It may also be remarked, that the heaviest falls of
snow are from the east and north-east.
The parish may be generally represented as dry and healthy.
The diseases which prevail are such as are common to the neigh-
bourhood, viz. fevers, sore throats, rheumatisms, &c. During the
time that cholera prevailed in this country, it afforded great ground
for thankfulness, that this parish was entirely free from it. The
practice of vaccination is carefully attended to, so that a face mark-
ed by the small-pox is rarely to be seen.
Hydrography. — The river Clyde, rising upwards of twenty-
five miles to the southward, in the parish of Crawford, flows
along with considerable rapidity, until within a few miles of its
PETTINAIN. 537
reaching the parish of Pettinain, when its motion becomes much
slower, its depth increased, and its aspect changed. From be-
ing rapid in its motion, and lively in its aspect, it becomes slow
and still, and continues so for several miles, making in its course
many beautiful windings through the haugh or holm land, and
moving so slowly and smoothly, that a stranger is at a loss to know
in what direction it is flowing. Such is its general aspect until near-
ly half a mile from where it leaves the parish, where some rocks
impede its course, and over which it rushes with considerable ra-
^pidity and noise. It was proposed at one time to remove two or
three feet from the surface of these rocks, and thus diminish the
depth of stagnant water above, and likewise prevent the floods from
overspreading so much of the adjoining land, by conveying the
water more rapidly away ; but the proprietors interested on both
banks of the river, not being satisfied as to the probable result, the
scheme was abandoned, after an experienced engineer had been
consulted, and had given it as his opinion that the plan was prac-
ticable. The river proceeds at its entrance into the parish from
south to north, and afterwards from east to west, compassing more
than one-half of the parish.
Geology and Mineralogy. — It is unnecessary to occupy much
space in adverting to this head. The ridge of hills, to which al-
lusion has already been made, consists chiefly of compact felspar
or felspar porphyry, and sandstone ; the western part of the ridge
being composed of the former, and the south-easterly part of the
latter. The felspar furnishes an excellent material for road mak-
ing, and is accounted so very valuable for this purpose, that it is
carted to the distance of several miles, into some of the neighbour-
ing parishes. There is a great want of freestone for dressing.
The hewn stone used in the building of the present manse, was
brought from the neighbourhood of Nethanfoot, a small village
upon the Clyde, in the parish of Lesmahagow, at a distance of more
than ten miles. Various attempts have been made to find lime-
stone, but hitherto without much success. Wherever it has been
found, it was either situated at such a depth below the surface, or
the stratum was so thin, that it was not deemed advantageous to
work it.
Soil. — There is a considerable variety of soil in the parish. In
the haugh or holm land adjoining the river, it appears to be a com-
pound of clay and mud, and extends to the depth of several feet,
under which is generally found a stratum of gravel. Around the
538 LANARKSHIRE.
village, and in various other parts, a rich loam is found to prevail ;
while other portions display, some a sharp gravelly, and others a
sandy soil. The higher grounds are generally covered with heath
and bent, and, having a clayey till as subsoil, are very unproduc-
tive, and not susceptible of much improvement.
Zoology. — The parish is not distinguished by any of the rarer
species of animals, if we except pheasants, a vast number of which
have, within the last three years, been brought from England, and
are now finding their way into the neighbouring parishes. They,
along with the hares, which have been much protected of late, and
are literally swarming, have been found very destructive to the
crops, and have furnished a subject of much complaint among the
tenants.
In the Clyde are found trout, pike, and perch, though the last is
limited only to particular places. The trout are not nearly so nume-
rous as formerly, which may be ascribed, in some measure, to the
river being more fished, and to the method practised in fishing. The
practice frequently adopted is for two persons, with short rods, to
repair to the river, each taking an opposite side, and with a line
stretched across, and to which are appended, by means of a piece of
gut, a great number of dressed fly-hooks, the river is thoroughly
fished, and the fishers in general well rewarded with a plentiful sup-
ply of trout. The decrease of trout may also be partly owing to the
increase of pike, some of which are found of an enormous size, and
are known to prey upon the trout. During last summer, one was
caught, which measured in length upwards of three feet, and weigh-
ed more than twenty pounds. It was presented to Sir Norman
Macdonald Lockhart of Lee and Carnwath, Bart, at that time re-
siding in Carnwath House.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
The whole parish belongs to Sir Windham Carmichael An-
struther, of Anstruther and Carmichael, Bart., with the excep-
tion of 250 or 300 acres, belonging to Hugh Smith, Esq. of
Westown, and about nine or ten acres, the property of Henry Mon-
teith, Esq. of Carstairs. This last portion, viz. Mr Monteith's, is
separated from the rest of the parish by the river Clyde, which, in
the haugh land, is frequently found to change its course ; but there
is little doubt of its being formerly joined to the rest of the parish,
from the circumstance of the old course of the river being still vi-
sible, and from its always having been liable for stipend.
Parochial Registers. — The oldest parochial register bears date
3
PETTINAIN. 539
1689, and for a considerable period of time, down to 1780, the
transactions of the heritors and kirk-session appear to have been
pretty regularly recorded ; but between that year and 1803, much
less attention has been paid, and the consequence is that they are
very defective. The different registers of births, marriages, and
deaths, are now kept with the greatest accuracy.
Antiquities. — It is unnecessary to make any remarks on the en-
campment, so well described in the former Statistical Account,
except to state that the traces of it are gradually disappearing;* and
likewise to observe, that there is now no vestige of the long stone
or cross, of which mention is also made in the former Account of
the parish.
Mansion-Houses. — The only mansion-house deserving of notice
is that of Westraw, belonging to Sir Windham Carmichael An-
struther, Bart. It appears to have been originally a small house,
but, with the additions which have been made from time to time, it
now affords a good deal of accommodation. It was here that the
late Earl of Hyndford, at whose death the title became extinct,
chiefly resided, although he had a splendid residence at Mauldslie,
* u In the confines of the parish on the south, and on the high moorish ground
formerly mentioned, the vestiges of a large camp, or fortified station, are still very
visible. It contains about 6 acres, which form an irregular figure, approaching to
that of a circular area. The walls seem to have been very thick and high, and to
have been composed chiefly of coarse stones, many of them a kind of flag, collected,
probably, from the adjoining grounds ; but there is no appearance of mortar or ce-
ment. It is situated upon the side of a deep moss, within which, at a little distance,
are the remains of a small fort, scarcely including a rood of ground, which has evi-
dently been connected with the large one by a passage made through the moss. The
figure of this small fortification is likewise round, and the wall of it has been built
with the same kind of stones. The large camp includes several springs of excellent
water. Some urns were found, under the ruins of the wall, a great many years ago,
by some people that were digging out the larger stones for the purpose of building.
They were each of them enclosed within four coarse flag stones, set on edge, and co-
vered with one laid flat. The space included by these flags was filled to a conside-
rable depth with a fine whitish sand, among which the urn was standing in an in.
ncrted position. Upon removing the urn, something of a soft slimy nature was
found upon the sand, which probably might be the ashes of human bones. A large
urn, surrounded with fine small ones, was found in the bottom of a cairn of stones,
about a quarter of a mile distant, and enclosed in a similar manner. This large camp
has two smaller ones in its view ; one of them to the north westward, upon the high-
est top of the hill, and the other to the south-eastward, on the top of a little hill
in Covington parish, each about the distance of half a mile. The first of these appears
to have been surrounded with two walls, between which there has been a deep ditch.
The walls have been built of large rough stones, such as are found upon the hill. A
vast number of them still remain upon the place. This fortification has likewise
been of a roundish figure.
" On the top of a little rising ground, about half a mile west from the village,
there has stood one of those long stones which are known by the name of Crosses.
It still lies near the place, and a socket of stone remains in which it is said to have
been fixed. From this place, which is connected with the plantations of Westraw,
there is a delightful view of the house and enclosures of Carstairs, on the opposite
side of the river." — Old Stat. Account, Vol. xii. p. 39.
540 LANARKSHIRE.
about twelve miles farther down the Clyde. At his death, the suc-
cession passed into the family of Anstruther, one of whose ances-
tors had married a sister of the Earl of Hyndford, by whom the
deed of entail was originally executed, and who provided that, fail-
ing certain male heirs, the succession should pass into the female
line.
III. — POPULATION.
The population of the parish does not appear to have varied
very materially for a considerable period of time. It is stated to
have been on the decrease when the last Account was given, but
at present the number is considerably greater than that formerly
given, the total population by the last census being 461. Of these
117 reside in the village of Pettinain, and the remaining 344 are
scattered throughout the parish.
The population in 1801 was, . . 430
1811, .... 401
1821, . . . • . 490
1838, September, by census taken by present incumbent, 402
The yearly average of births for the last seven years, as ascertained from the re-
gister, is . . . . lOf
The yearly average of deaths for the same period, . 6f
of marriages, .... . 4^
The average number of persons under 15 years of age, . . . 159
betwixt 15 and 30, . . .143
30 and 50, ... 79
50 and 70, . . 57
upwards of 70, . . . 23
There are of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 years, 15
women, upwards of 45 years, ... 27
The average number of children in each family is . . 4$-
There is .only one person in the parish deaf and dumb.
At present, there are no resident heritors in the parish ; and the
proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards
amount only to two.
Character of the People. — The habits of the people are cleanly,
and a good deal of attention is paid to neatness of dress. Their
ordinary food is porridge, made of oatmeal, for breakfast; broth with
beef or pork, or butter and cheese to dinner ; and porridge or po-
tatoes, according to the season of the year, to supper. The peo-
ple, in general, are happy and contented with their situation, and
may be characterized as quiet and sensible, industrious, and regu-
lar in their attendance on Divine ordinances. Poaching is not
often practised, except among the pheasants, and in those cases
where the poachers have been detected, they have been found to
be individuals from other parishes. There is no smuggling or
pawnbroking carried on in the parish*
PETTINAIN. 541
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — Of the land under cultivation, or which has been
occasionally under tillage, the number of acres is computed to be
about 2320, while the portion which remains constantly waste or in
pasture may be estimated about 740 acres. It would not be advisable
to apply any portion of capital to the improvement of the greater
part of this description of land, as it could not afford a remunerat-
ing price to the tenant. The only way in which it could be turned
to advantage, would be by planting it, and from the thriving ap-
pearance which that portion of it exhibits, which was planted some
years ago, great encouragement is held out to plant more exten-
sively. Within the last fifteen years, about 92 acres of the hill,
to which reference has already been made, have been planted un-
der the judicious management of the late Colonel Anstruther,
acting as curator during the minority of the late Sir John Car-
michael Anstruther, Bart, who was accidentally killed in his four-
teenth year, while residing at Eton for his education. The land
which has thus been planted, was generally moorish and very un-
productive ; but now that the trees have sprung up and assumed a
thriving appearance, the sterile aspect of that portion of the hill
is much changed, and the property considerably benefited by the
shelter which is thus afforded, and by the profit which will ulti-
mately accrue from the thinning of the trees. The kinds of trees
which were selected for this plantation, were chiefly Scotch fir
and larch ; but since they have sprung up, and are capable of af-
fording some shelter, various kinds of hard-wood have been intro-
duced. In the whole parish, exclusive of what is around the
mansion-house of Westraw, where is a considerable extent of plan-
tation, consisting of oak, ash, lime, plane, beech, hornbeam, and
fir, of a considerable age, there may be about 160 acres planted
and natural ; the latter of which forms but a small proportion to
the former.
Rent of Land. — The average rent of the arable land per acre,
may be stated about L. 1, 6s. 6d., and the pasture or waste land
about 2s. The average for grazing an ox or cow on good pasture
is about L. 4 ; but of course the rent must be regulated by the
quality of the pasture. There are so few sheep kept in the parish,
that the rate of grazing cannot be particularly stated.
Wages. — Farm-servants are generally hired by the half-year. The
wages of ploughmen range from L. 5 to L. 7, along with victuals, but
some superior ones receive more. Female servants are hired for
542 LANARKSHIRE.
the same period. Their wages are much higher in summer than in
winter. During the former period, they range from L. 3, 10s. to L. 4,
and sometimes even L. 4, 4s. but in winter they are much lower.
The general rate of labour for day labourers is Is. 6d. per day in-
cluding victuals, but masons and carpenters receive higher wages.
In consequence of the various Agricultural Societies which have
been established in the neighbourhood, and the cattle-shows which
have been instituted, much attention has of late years been paid to
the improvement of the breed both of cattle and horses. The
particular breed of cattle which has attracted most attention is the
Ayrshire, and the greater part of the farmers testify a very laud-
able desire to excel in rearing such. Some of the farmers are
disposed to allege, that the horses now reared do not in many in-
stances possess so much bone as formerly. There are, however,
a number of well-formed and strong working horses to be seen,
and some estimate may be formed of their value, when it is stated
that a one-year old colt will sometimes bring from L. 20 to L. 30.
Husbandry. — The character of the husbandry pursued is in gene-
ral good. Situated as the parish is, at a considerable elevation,
about 700 feet above the level of the sea, oats and barley are the
principal kinds of grain sown. Potatoes are grown to a considerable
extent, and turnips to a much greater. The greatest care is taken
to prepare the ground for both of these kinds of crops, by frequent
ploughing and harrowing ; and when the soil appears to be suffi-
ciently pulverized, the manure is applied in drills, and in general
an excellent crop rewards the industry and expense of the tenant.
The manure is generally such as has been made upon the farm,
and from the number of cattle kept, and the great quantity of tur-
nips and fodder consumed, it has not been found necessary, except
in a very few instances, to have recourse to bone dust, or other
manures. And here it may be proper to state, that a great num-
ber of milk cows are regularly kept on every farm. Butter and
cheese are articles to which the farmer looks as much for the
payment of his rent, as to his oats and barley, and hence the great
quantities of each which are regularly sent to the Edinburgh
market. It is the general practice for the farmers to keep from
fifteen to twenty cows, and in some instances there are no fewer
than thirty-five or forty. The former practice was to make butter,
and what was termed skim-milk or common cheese, but of late
several of the farmers have got into the way of making sweet milk
PETT1NAIN. 543
or Dunlop cheese, which generally meets with a more ready mar-
ket, and brings a fair price.
All the variety of turnip is cultivated ; but the globe, red-top, and
yellow are the most common, the latter having almost supplanted
the ruta baga^ which is» now very partially cultivated, as it is gene-
rally supposed to require both land of the best quality, and a larger
portion of manure to ensure a good crop. Carrots have, in a few
instances, and to a very limited extent, been sown, and have been
found very useful, both as an article for domestic use. and as food
for horses. Were this species of crop cultivated to a greater ex-
tent, there is little doubt, that a considerable portion of oats might
be saved, and horses kept in fully as good condition as now. From
the quantity of saccharine matter contained in them, they must be
highly nutritious, and, being given along with a proper proportion
of oats, would tend to keep the animal frame in a healthy state.
Improvements. — There are few parishes where improvements have
been carried on to such an extent, and with so great advantage to the
property. As a proof of the extent to which draining has been carried,
it may be sufficient to state, that upwards of 20,000 yards, or nearly
twelve miles of covered drains have been put into the ground within
the last sixteen or eighteen years, and these drains are generally
from five to seven feet and a half in depth, and all of them three feet
filled with stones. Besides these, there have also been executed
within the same period nearly 5000 yards of open drains, and also
a considerable extent of surface drains, to prepare the ground for
planting. A considerable improvement has also been effected in the
way of erecting additional fences. All these improvements were
suggested and carried on by the late Colonel Anstruther, and the
excellent effects which have resulted from them clearly prove that
they were planned with much judgment. It may also be remarked,
that, on the property of Westown, a very great improvement has
been effected, by breaking up a portion of land, which was in
some measure lying waste, but which, by the judicious application
of skill and capital, has been made to yield excellent crops.
Owing to particular circumstances, the duration of leases has
been very short, and consequently unfavourable to the occupier ;
for no tenant will, under a lease of six or seven years, embark
much of his capital in the improvement of his farm, when he has
no certainty of possessing it for a longer period, and when the very
improvement which he has effected may be the means of inducing
others to overbid him, and thus reap the fruits of his skill and in-
544 LANARKSHIRE.
diistry. In reference to the state of the farm buildings, it may be
said that they are not so good as they ought to be, and, compared
with those in other parts of the country, are decidedly inferior.
It ought, however, at the same time, to be stated, that the tenants
in general are contented with them, and seem more desirous to
improve their farms, and to excel in husbandry, than to enjoy ele-
gant houses.
Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised
in the parish cannot be accurately ascertained. The following is
an approximation towards it, but is only to be viewed in that
light:
Of oats and barley, 580 acres, yielding 6 bolls per acre, at 15s. . L. 2610
Of potatoes and turnips, 200 acres, at L. 5 per acre, . 1000
Of hay, 200 acres, yielding 150 stones per acre, at L. 3 per 100 stones, 900
Of pasture. 900 acres, at L. 2 per acre, . . 1800
Of do. 1180 acres, at 5s. per acre, 295
L. 6605
V.— PAROCHIAL ECONOMY*
Market-Town, fyc. — The nearest town is that of Carnwath,
at the distance of three miles ; but in consequence of the Clyde
intervening, and the river being frequently impassable, particu-
larly in winter, the inhabitants generally resorted to Lanark, at
the distance of five miles and a half, having easy access to it by
a bridge over the Clyde at Hyndford. The communication with
Carnwath, however, was greatly facilitated about six or seven
years ago, by means of a large boat, or float, stationed where the
ford formerly was, and open at each end ; and by means of which
the river can now be passed at all times, except when it rises to
such a height as completely to overflow the road, and to render
the entrance into the boat impracticable. The float is attached
to a patent chain cable stretched across the river, is worked so
easily by mnchinery, that a boy can manage it, is capable of receiv-
ing cattle, and carriages of every description, and can even at one
time convey four carts across. It has been found to be of great
advantage to the parish, and, indeed, to all the adjoining district.
It cost at first about L. 500, and the public are indebted for it to a
few public-spirited gentlemen in the neighbourhood, viz. the late Sir
Charles Macdonald Lockhart, Bart., the late Colonel Anstruther,
Henry Monteith, Esq. of Carstairs, and some others, who came
voluntarily forward, and subscribed the requisite amount. A small
sum is exacted in crossing, but the facility and security afforded is
so great, that the exaction is readily complied with. Before it was
established, it frequently happened that, during the winter months,
PETT1NAIN. 545
there was little or no communication with Carnwath, except by
travelling nine or ten miles.
Means of Communication. — The only turnpike road connected
with the parish is that leading from Carlisle to Stirling, which
passes merely through a corner of the parish. The parish roads
are kept in excellent repair, and afford a ready communication in
every direction.
Besides a number of enclosures which formerly existed, there
have recently been erected stone fences to the extent of 4840 yards.
They are from four to five feet in height, and cost Is. 3d. per
yard in erecting.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is conveniently situate
for the greater part of the population ; those farthest removed from
it do not exceed two miles. The belfry bears date 1696, with the in-
scription " Holiness becomes God's house;" but it appears to have
formed part of a much older building than the present church.
The church is in good repair, having been completely reseated in
1820. It affords accommodation for 234, according to the legal
calculation ; and there are 48 free sittings. The patronage belongs
to Sir W. C. Anstruther, Bart.
The present manse was built in 1820, and is a very excellent
and comfortable house. The former manse, which was built in
1711, is still in existence, and being found substantial though small,
it was converted, in 1820, into office houses, for which purpose it
answers exceedingly well. The glebe consists of about 10 acres,
including site of the house, garden, &c. but only 8 acres of these
are, properly speaking, arable, the remaining portion being unfit for
any other purpose than pasturing, in consequence of its being pre-
cipitous and near the rock. It may be valued from L. 25 to L. 30.
The stipend is partly made up by the Government bounty. It con-
sists of 52 bolls oatmeal, with some fractional parts, 23 bolls bear
do. do. ; from the heritors, L. 50, 19s. 4Jd. ; from the Exchequer,
L. 47, 6s.
There are no chapels of any description in the parish, the whole
population being connected with the church, except four or five in-
dividuals, and it ought to be stated to the credit of the parishioners
that the church is in general well attended. The number of com-
municants is about 200.
Education. — There is but one school in the parish, the parochial
school, which is of course endowed. The branches commonly
taught are, English, English grammar, writing, arithmetic, Latin,
546 LANARKSHIRE.
and geography. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is 1
chalder, 14 bolls, amounting to nearly L. 32. Besides his salary,
he draws the interest of 500 merks mortified in 1708 by the Earl
of Hyndford. His fees may amount to L. 17 per annum. With
respect to a house, he may be said to have the legal accommoda-
tion, in so far as he has two apartments, but they are very small.
An allowance is granted on account of the garden falling short
of the legal extent. The general expense of education for the year
may be estimated about 10s. 6d. This is to be understood as ap-
plicable only to the common branches. All the youth betwixt six
and fifteen years of age have been taught to read, and generally to
write ; and it is not supposed, that there are more than two or three
above fifteen years of age who cannot read or write.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor is not great,
although greater than at some former periods. Only a few of the
most necessitous get a regular allowance, the practice having been
for the session to grant, from time to time, such occasional relief
as the necessities of the individuals seemed to require ; and this
was done with the view of keeping up as much as possible the
spirit of independence, which it is to be lamented does not prevail
to the same extent as formerly. The collections for the poor are
necessarily limited, in consequence of there being no resident he-
ritor. They may amount to L. 8 per annum, and the deficiency
for the support of the poor is at present made up by a voluntary
contribution from the heritors and tenants in equal proportions.
There were some funds belonging to the poor, but, owing to par-
ticular circumstances, it has of late been found necessary to up-
lift a portion of them to meet the necessities of the poor.
There are neither fairs nor ale-houses in the parish.
Fuel. — The' fuel which is chiefly consumed consists of coal,
brought from the parishes of Carnwath or Douglas, at the distance
of eight or nine miles, and costing at the coal-hill about 3s. for
12 cwt.
November 1838.
PARISH OF CARSTAIRS.
PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. GEORGE MUNRO, A. M. MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name — THE etymology of the name of this parish is involved
in some uncertainty. In charters of the twelfth and thirteenth
centuries, the name appears in the form of Castleterrcs or Castle*
tarres ; and in documents subsequent to that date, in the form of
Carstaires, Carstares, and Carstairs. The prefix Car or Cae?;
in the old British language, signified a fort, or walled place, or
castle, and is thus synonymous with the other prefix Castel ; so
that both forms of the name have the same meaning. The affix
Stairs or Stair, anciently Staer or Ster, denoted an estate or pos-
session. Adopting this etymology, the meaning of the whole is,
<( An estate, or possession, where there is an enclosed, or fortified
place;" and local circumstances seem to sanction its correctness.
The notion that Stair is a term derived from the ridges on the
west side of the church, is evidently fanciful. Nothing can be
argued in favour of this etymology from the addition of the final s.
Such an addition to words which do not require it, is a thing quite
common among the illiterate of our country ; and the name ap-
pears of more ancient date than these ridges, which seem, like those
at Newlands and Strathaven, of an artificial character.
Extent and Boundaries. — In form the parish is an irregular ob-
long, situated on the right bank of the Clyde, at the distance of
27 miles west from Edinburgh, and 25 miles east from Glasgow.
It is bounded on the south by the River Clyde, which separates it
from Pettinain; on the west, by Lanark; on the north and north,
west, by Carluke and Cambusnethan ; and on the east, by Carn-
wath. The extreme length may be reckoned at 6 miles from
north to south, and the average breadth about 3 miles. It con-
tains about 18J square miles, or 11,840 imperial acres.
Topographical Appearances. — The aspect of the parish is vari-
ous. The surface is diversified to a considerable extent, with a
548 LANARKSHIRE.
multitude of roundish sand-knolls, varying indefinitely in shape,
and height; some of them being only 15, others more than 60
feet above the general level. The hollows between some of these
heights being completely land-locked, have become mosses, both
from the remains of old woods, the aggregation of vegetable re-
mains blown into them by the wind, and the successive growth and
decay of plants peculiar to such spots. These moss beds, together
with some fields of the same nature, but wider in extent, which
are situated in the centre of the parish, tend rather to hurt the
general aspect, — a blemish which is not a little added to, by stag-
nant pools of moss water, plentifully stocked with rank carices and
scirpi ; and the never-failing tenant of such spots the eriophoron.
Yet even in spots of this character, the eye is often agreeably re-
lieved by a pleasing diversity of cultivated eminences, some of
which, being crowned with wood, possess not a little beauty. The
southern portion of the parish is very picturesque and beautiful.
The Clyde, which here forms the boundary, having escaped from
its concealment behind the lofty hill of Tinto, and flowed for se-
veral miles in a serpentine channel through holm lands of the most
fertile description, becomes on reaching the parish a large and
noble river. Its banks being ornamented with rich pastures, and
an agreeable intermixture of woods and plantations, the landscape
has an air of great elegance. Embosomed amid forest scenery, and
on a bank sloping gradually towards the Clyde, stands Carstairs
House, a magnificent modern mansion in the Gothic style, the
seat of Henry Monteith, Esq. the principal heritor and patron
of the parish. The surrounding lawns, the shrubberies and plan-
tations, the avenues, and the approach from the village, are all
laid out in the best taste, and kept in the best order. Adjoining
the house is a rich garden, well planned, and completely sheltered
on all sides, which produces almost every variety of fruit. The
cottage of Brownrig, belonging to the same gentleman, adorns the
northern sjde of the parish, with the woods amid which it stands,
and a sloping, or rather hanging, garden on the banks of the River
Mouse, and is soon to become the summer residence of Lord Ful-
lerton, one of the Senators of the College of Justice. The vil-
lage, which contains the parish church, with a handsome spire, is a
most beautiful and picturesque spot, presenting an object which
charms the eye from whatever quarter it is approached. Natu-
rally well situated, it has been vastly improved and beautified by the
present proprietor. Before the estate of Carstairs fell into his
CARSTAIRS. % 549
bands, the inviting appearance which the village wore at a distance,
was miserably mocked on entering it, by the peat-stacks and dung-
hills which obtruded on the view. The generous superior has, at
his own expense, removed these nuisances ; and in their room are
now to be seen neatly enclosed gardens, tastefully laid out, and
decorated with ornamental plants, and culinary vegetables, which
regale the eye of the passenger, and afford profit to the tenant.
Meteorology. — Although variable, like other parishes in the up-
per ward, the climate is by no m%ans insalubrious, or unfavourable
to vegetation. From the sandy nature of the soil in most spots,
snow disappears* more rapidly than in the parishes to the east and
south, and the effects of continued rain are proportionally unfelt,
while continued drought is proportionally severe. It adds, of course,
to the early maturity of the crops, that the soil drys rapidly, and
is easily warmed. Nowhere, perhaps, do fewer diseases prevail,
which may be the effect of climate, or any local peculiarity ; and
though in some places a few more remarkable instances of longevity
occur, yet in none does a greater proportion of the population
reach the ordinary limits of human life. Several individuals are
in the enjoyment of good health at the age of eighty and eighty-
five ; and one has attained the advanced age of ninety-nine. As
climate is a good deal dependent on the local situation, the mossy
spots in the parish must necessarily be somewhat both cold and
moist, considering that its computed altitude is from 600 to 700
feet above the level of the sea.
Hydrography. — There are only two rivers of any note in the
parish, the Clyde, which forms the southern boundary, and the
Mouse, which traverses the centre of the parish, flowing westward.
During their connection with this parish, both rivers flow on in a
smooth and placid course — the Clyde through rich holm lands,
the Mouse through mossy flats; this last forming in many places
deep sluggish pools. The course of both is changed on entering
the parish of Lanark ; the Clyde coming to a rocky bed, which
terminates in the Falls of Bonnington and Corra Linn ; and the
Mouse entering between the dark, rugged, and precipitous crags,
called the Cartlane Crags, which are the astonishment and terror
of every beholder. During the lapse of ages, the Clyde has often
changed its course in this neighbourhood. A former channel of
no very recent date is still to be seen upon the property of West-
bank. This channel at present has the appearance of a winding
lake, so overgrown in some parts with reed and marshy grass, a
LANARK. N n
550 LANARKSHIRE.
to have consolidated into a sward, capable of being cut by the
scythe — the mower, to ensure a better footing, fastening flat boards
to his feet, after the fashion of the Esquimaux snow-shoe, while
in others it still remains limpid and deep, forming pools for the
pike, and a quiet retreat for wild ducks and other aquatic birds.
While the Clyde, in winter, aids the farmer by the deposition of
its rich slimy mud, it at other seasons becomes his dread, by burst-
ing with rapid inundations on his holms when in crop, and leaving
desolation in the place of luxuriant fertility.
Geology — Soil. — The soil varies with the situation. Along the
banks of the Clyde, it is alluvial, arising from depositions of the
river, and the holms thus formed bear crops of the most luxuriant
quality, not to be surpassed in the richest parts of the county.
But as these lands are liable to inundations of the river, and if
under crop to extensive damage, they are usually laid out in pas-
ture. Between the alluvial soil on the banks of the Clyde and the
River Mouse, there intervenes a region of sand, thrown up, as al-
ready noticed, into a multitude of sand-knolls. These internally
are composed of strata of sand and pebbles, and the superincum-
bent soil is artificial to a great extent. Between the heights,
patches of moss intervene, which might be made more available
than it is to the improvement of the soil generally. Good level
roads are made by turning the heights into the hollows, and so
here, by turning the knoll into the moss, which could be done with-
out much labour, many a sterile patch might be reclaimed. The
moss is thus made available in some degree, and while it supplies
the parishioners with a considerable portion of fuel, and is reckon-
ed preferable to coal for the purposes of the dairy, it affords inex-
haustible means of manure, the return and uses of which have been
most satisfactorily ascertained. Beyond the River Mouse, the soil
changes. Tn the western portion of the parish, it is of a clayish qua-
lity ; in the eastern, almost wholly moss, and very flat. This is the
dreariest and most uninviting portion of the parish. At Brownrig
Cottage, the banks of the Mouse begin to be rocky and precipitous.
The rock is a greyish sandstone, very friable. Limestone has been
found, and whinstone, — the latter in some abundance ; but there is
no great quarry in the parish. Coal has not been discovered. The
clay in the north-west of the Mouse is of a very fine quality. This
circumstance induced the proprietor to erect a tile-work, where
tiles for draining are now made to a great extent. It is needless
almost to notice that the class of vegetables varies with the varia-
CARSTAIRS. 551
tion of the soil, and to the practised eye becomes no bad index of
what is underneath the surface. The sand of which the knolls are
composed, is very loose. Some years ago, two workmen, employ-
ed in sinking a well at the farm-steading of Hills, were overwhelm-
ed by the bursting of the sides, when they had reached the depth
of twenty-two feet. It was the Saturday previous to the winter com-
mimion. The bell of the village church being tolled as soon as the
alarm was given, a large body of active fellows turned out, and, by
dint of exertion, dug out the poor men, who were both alive, though
twelve or thirteen hours had elapsed before they were reached.
One of them recovered perfectly, and the other would have done
so too, had he not received injuries from the fall of a portion of the
wooden frame-work which had been employed to prop the bank.
He died in the course of the Sabbath.
Zoology and Botany. — No animal of a peculiar character haunts
the parish. Herons are found on the Clyde and the Mouse. The
lapwing, a clamorous bird, frequents the moors and marshy spots,
annoying the passenger in every direction. Rooks formerly fre-
quented the woods around Carstairs House, but, getting too nume-
rous, the inhabitants rose " en masse," killed and extirpated them
some years since. Many attempts have been made to build nests
by crows, probably young ones, who were ignorant of the bad usage
of former times, but every such attempt has been rendered abor-
tive, by the attacks of older birds, who seem determined to oppose
the restoration of the rookery. Both the Clyde and the Mouse af-
ford excellent sport for the angler, and in the former, trouts of
several pounds weight are often taken. Pike are to be found in
the deep pools, and in the old channel of the Clyde at West-
bank.. But Stonebyres Fall, several miles below, is the " ne plus
ultra" of salmon.
Some of the rarer species of plants have been found, and such
as are peculiar to mossy tracts are abundant. Neither bramble
nor sloe is to be found in the parish. Plants varying with the soil,
it is presumed that, from the variety of soils to be found within
the compass of the parish, its vegetable productions are no less di-
versified.
Woods and Plantations. — The proprietor of Carstairs estate has
done much to beautify and improve it, by laying out new planta-
tions in favourable spots. Still a greater extent of wood would be
favourable to the climate, and desirable to the eye. The north-
eastern district' of the parish, through which the Mouse flows, is
552 LANARKSHIRE.
very bare, a dreary flat, but once the seat of a magnificent forest,
certain proofs of which remain in the extent and depth of the moss
to be found in it. The lawn at Carstairs House contains some fine
trees. Below the house, on the bank of the river, is an extended
avenue of beeches, terminated on the east by the mausoleum, which
contains the ashes of the late proprietor, Mr Fullerton. This
structure, in the shape of a small temple, and on a rising ground,
supplies a beautiful termination to the vista.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Land-owners. — There are in all nine land-owners in the parish,
four of whom are Commissioners of Supply ; viz. Mr Monteith of
Carstairs ; Mr A. E. Lockhart of Cleghorn ; Mr R. C. Buchanan
of Drumpellier, and Mr Robert Campbell of Dalserf.
By far the greater portion of the parish is possessed by Mr
Monteith, who spares no pains to improve his estate. He is con-
stantly resident, superintending the extensive operations which are
continually going on ; thus affording an abundance of employment
and good wages to the labouring-classes, whose comfort and wel-
fare have been much advanced by the personal residence and pub-
lic spirit of such an heritor. Were every one, who has it in his
power, to follow Mr Monteith's example, he would confer a signal
blessing on his neighbourhood.
State of Property. — The manor of Carstairs, with its church and
pertinents, belonged to the Bishop of Glasgow, in the twelfth cen-
tury, whose right was confirmed by bulls from different popes ;
particularly in the years 1170, 1178, 1181, and 1186. Soon after
the death of Alexander III., Robert Wishart, then Bishop of Glas-
gow, with the consent of Edward I. of England, built a castle of
stone * near the church of Carstairs, and the manor and parish
* The ansient Castle of Carstairs was originally a Roman station or fortification,
and was given by King David, or St David, as he was called, in A. D. 1126, to the
Bishop of Glasgow, for his country palace.
The following curious information is from the Rotuli Scotiae in the Tower, pub-
lished by the Record Commission :
When Edward I. was at Berwick in 1292, deciding on the claims of Bruce and
Baliol, he was in possession of all the fortresses of Scotland. At that period the King
granted a license to Robert Wishart, Bishop of Glasgow, to finish the Castle of Carstairs,
which had been begun without his leave. The following is a copy of the license : " The
King and Sovereign Lord of the kingdom of Scotland, to all his bailiffs and faithful
men to whom those shall come, greeting, Whereas a venerable father, Robert, Bishop,
at his own manor of Carstairs, county of Lanark, a certain castle of stone and mor-
tar, after the death of Alexander of blessed memory, began without any license to
build, We to the same bishop, a special grace being willing to have granted in this
part to him, for ourselves and for our heirs, that he the said castle so begun may
finish and fortify with kernels, and the same so finished, and turreted, and kernillated,
may hold to him, and to his successors for ever. Nor wish we that the said bishop,
CARSTAIRS. 553
continued to be held by the see of Glasgow till the Reformation.
By the general annexation in 1588, when all the church lands were
annexed to the Crown, in order to aid the public revenues, James
VI. bestowed this fine barony, extending to a forty-eight pound land
of old extent, with the advowson, vicarage-lands, and heritable ju-
risdictions, upon Sir William Stewart of Monkton, third son of
Lord Ochiltree.
In 1589, Sir William sold the whole to Sir James Hamilton of
Avondale. On the re-establishment of Episcopacy in 1603, the
King gave to the Bishop of Glasgow the superiority of this ba-
rony. Sir James afterwards sold the barony to Sir James Lockhart
of Lee, who gave it to his eldest son by a second marriage. From
that family the barony and patronage passed to the late William
Fullerton, Esq. of Carstairs, and from his heirs it was purchased
by the present proprietor, Henry Monteith, Esq.
Antiquities. — The parish retains the vestiges of a Roman camp
upon the farm of Corbiehall. The camp measures six square
acres. Though it has been considerably injured by the plough and
the spade, the walls of circumvallafion are still easily traced, the
pretorium is visible, and the causeway to and from the camp, run-
ning in a direct line, can be traced for many miles. To lay down
the exact line of this Roman road has been the subject of deep
and serious research, and after the most patient investigation, it-
has been found, that " Gadanica" in the ninth Roman Iter, " Cola-
nica" of Richard's map, and the " Colonia" of Ptolemy, a town of
the Damnii, are the same. From this post, which corresponds so
exactly with the Damnian town on Little Clyde, the Iter must have
proceeded in a north-east direction, along the south-east side of
Clydesdale, till it reached the remarkable turn which the river
makes a little to the west of Biggar. From this point, following
the course of the river, the Iter would naturally proceed in a
northerly direction, along the eastern or right bank, till it reached
Caer-stairs, the Coria, or Corium of the Iter, another town of the
Damnii, which is twenty-four miles from the Colonia on the Little
or his successors, by occasion of the said castle being begun without our license, or
will as aforesaid, is by us, or our heirs, or our bailiffs, or our servants whatsomever,
be quarrelled, or in any way aggrieved. " Witness the king, at Berwick -on-Tweed
the 15th of July."
It is remarkable that in 1292 the castle and manor of Carstairs was possessed by
one of our most public-spirited bishops, a citizen of Glasgow ; and now, after a lapse
of more than 500 years, the magnificent mansion and extensive manor of Carstairs are
possessed by a citizen of Glasgow, alike distinguished for public spirit and active be-
nevolence, whether engaged in mercantile enterprise, employed in the senate, or en-
joying honourable retirement.
554 LANARKSHIRE.
Clyde. Here, too, was a place known by the name of " Castle-
dykes," which was said to be finely situated on the right bank of
the Clyde, near Carstairs. From the station at Castledykes, there
diverged a vicinal road across Clydesdale, probably intended to
form a communication between the western Iter, and the estuary
of the Clyde. This road passed the Clyde near Lanark, and led
over Stonebyre hill, after which it crossed the Nether. Beyond
this point, its vestiges have been frequently discovered by the
plough. The locality of this now unknown spot may be further
pretty accurately ascertained, by the fact, that on the south side of
the Mouse, are the remains of a Roman camp in Lanark moor,
said to be three miles from Castledykes.
Another account is, that the Iter, or great road, passed through
the station at Castledykes, near Carstairs, and leaving Ravenstru-
ther on the right, proceeded to Cleghorn mill, where it crossed
the River Mouse. The road led thence through the enclosures of
Cleghorn, leaving the Roman camp on the right, and proceeded
by Collylaw, Kilcadzow, Coldstream, and Guilshields, to Belstane,
in the neighbourhood of Carluke, being throughout Clydesdale
known by the appropriate name of Watling Street.
Near Carstairs church were found the remains of a bath. Be-
sides pots, dishes, and instruments of war, as well as those used in
sacrifice, there have been found coins bearing the inscription of
M. Aurelius, M. Antoninus, Trajanus Imperator, &c. some of
which were sent by the late Mr Fullerton to the Society of Anti-
quaries, and to the University of Glasgow. A cairn or tumulus
was dug up a few years ago, on the lands of Mossplat, and some
urns were found in it, one of which is preserved by Mr Campbell
of Dalserf. All these circumstances concur in affording a proof of
the very long residence of the Romans in the neighbourhood of
Carstairs.
In 1820, there were found underneath the stone-dike that en-
closes the south-west part of the glebe, a cannon bullet ten feet
below the surface, imbedded among the rubbish of old buildings,
and close by it, a floor of considerable dimensions, laid with large
smooth pavement : also, a gable-wall of immense thickness, built
with large massy stones. In 1 838, there were found upon the side of a
reclaimed moss, turned up with a hoe, thirty-six silver coins, neatly
packed in a cow's hoof, having on one side " Civitas London," and,
on the other, a man's face with the inscription, " Edw. Reg. Ang."
CARSTAIRS. 555
The bullet and the greater part of the coins are now in the pos-
session of Henry Monteith, Esq,
Remarkable Occurrences. — In 1639, 13th April, Mr John Lind-
say, minister of Carstairs, was deposed from the office of the mi-
nistry for adherence to the Service-book and the Bishops ; and on
the 30th of April in the following year, he was again admitted to
the ministry of Carstairs by the imposition of hands.
On the 26th of May 1642, Mr John Lindsay reported to the
presbytery, " that thro* occasion of a tumultuous brithal and pro-
miscuous dancing at Carstairs, there must have fallen out, except
the Lord in his mercy had prevented it, great mischief and blood."
The presbytery, taking it into their serious consideration, " Ratify
their former acts against number and peace at pennie brithals, and
for preventing the like danger in tyme coming, ordains farder, that
there be no promiscuous dancing, or excessive drinking, under the
loss of the consigned money; and, in the meantime, ordains George
Ogston to summons Thomas Lithgow, the author of the tumult,
to compear before the session of Carstairs, under pain of the cen-
sures of the kirk."
1648, 7th December. — Proportion each parish was to pay for a
bursar at Glasgow, as settled by Mr John Lindsay ; Lanark,
L. 22; Lesmahagow, L. 22 ; Carluke, L. 11; Douglas, L. 10 ;
Crawford Lindsay, 10 merks; Carmichael, lOmerks; Pettinain,
L. 5 ; Carstairs, L. 5 ; Dunsyre, L. 5 ; Roberton, L. 5 ; Wiston,
L. 5 ; Carnwath, L. 1 0.
Parochial Registers. — A correct parish register has been kept
for many years, and the session records extend as far back as the
year 1672; in which there is nothing interesting or curious, ex-
cept some severe instances of church discipline, especially during
the ministry of Mr John M'Leran, who was afterward so well
known, and so much esteemed at Edinburgh.
III. — POPULATION.
The population of the parish at different periods has been as
follows :
In 1755, the population was 845
1791, -' 924
1801, . 899
1811, . <«* v 875
1821, - 937
1831, £ 981
By this table it appears, that, during the last war, the popula-
tion decreased. It has increased gradually since the peace. The
increase, since 1831, has not been great.
556 LANARKSHIRE.
Census 1831,— -males, 460— females, 521, 981
Males 20 years old,
Males upwards of 20 years old,
Males under 20 years old, 46
Male servants upwards of da.
Female Servants, - - 92
Labourers, - 48
Occupiers of land not employing labourers, - 20
Labourers employed in agriculture, - 54
Males employed in manufactures, - - 18
retail trade, - - 42
Wholesale merchants, professional persons, and educated men, 6
Employed by the three preceding classes, and other labourers
not agricultural, 16
Inhabited houses, - 183
Inhabited houses occupied by families, 207
Uninhabited houses, - 13
Families employed in agriculture, 82
trade, 46
Births. Burials. Marriages.
1828, 23 15-8
1829, 27 - 9 9
1830, 26 12 - 7
1831, 25 - 16 - 9
1832, 20 13-9
1833, 25 - 12-12
1834, 31 - 13-11
1835, - 29 - 15 2
1836, 27 9-8
1837, - 19 - 16 15
Average 25^ 13 - 9
The average number of illegitimate children will not amount to
two annually. There is only one fatuous person in the parish, one
deaf and dumb, and none blind.
Character of the People. — The people on the whole are con-
tented with their situation and circumstances, enjoying as they do
the comforts of life in a reasonable degree. They are decidedly
sober and industrious in their habits, and very regular in their at-
tendance at church.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. —
Number of acres, standard imperial measure, in the parish, which are either
cultivated or occasionally in tillage, - 9936
Number of acres which never have been cultivated, and which remain constant-
ly waste, or in -pasture, - 1500
Number of acres that might, with a profitable application of capital, be added
to the cultivated land of the parish, whether that land were afterwards to
be kept in occasional tillage or in permanent pasture, - 500
Number of acres in a state of undivided common, - 4
Number of acres under wood, whether natural or planted, - 400
Every modern improvement in agriculture has been adopt-
ed in the parish. Some of the farmers are skilful and indus-
trious, and particularly attentive to the regular rotations, so con-
ducive to their interests as agriculturists. When the season per-
CARSTAIUS. 557
mits, ploughing is generally well forward before the winter frosts
set in ; and the fields are ready for sowing as soon as the vernal
months are propitious. The extravagant opinion of theorists,
" that nature never intended the land to rest, — that if it does not
bear crops it will produce weeds," has been exploded as wild and
chimerical ; and every farmer finds it his interest to have as much
of his lands as possible in grass or pasturage. If farmers could be
induced to extend this practice, and never to have less than one-
half of their fields in grass, they wound find it still more conducive
to their interest ; and the rich returns, when broken up and crop-
ped with the regular rotations, would amply repay the experiment.
Turnip husbandry has been particularly successful. The use of
bone-dust has been introduced, but it is not generally adopted.
In no part of the country are better crops of potatoes produced.
In favourable seasons many of the farmers have several hundred
bolls in the market ; and they can always find ready sale at the
establishment of New Lanark, belonging to Messrs Walker and
Company. The soil, in general, is well adapted to the potato
crop ; and our farmers are alive to the importance of a change of
seed, — a practice which, not being observed in other quarters, has
given rise to the most deplorable failures in this important neces-
sary of life. The Ayrshire breed of cattle is to be seen on every
farm. Upon some lands, which the proprietor retains in his own
possession, are to be seen a description of cattle which cannot be
surpassed in Scotland. The great improvement in agriculture
and stock, which not this parish alone, but Scotland as a whole,
now enjoys, is to be traced to the institution of ploughing-
matches, cattle-shows, and the like, which have excited a lau-
dable emulation among farmers, — the good effects of which have
terminated to their own advantage, and will continue to add to it.
Thrashing-mills are in general use ; and the painful and labo-
rious exercise of the flail is only to be seen in small pendicles.
Fences, too, are much better than formerly ; but still, in some
places, there is an evident want of attention to this highly useful
and ornamental part of husbandry. Thorns, indeed, do not thrive
well on the dry-sand soils ; but iu such soils as do favour their
growth, it is painful to see large gaps in the hedges, arising from
mismanagement and culpable inattention to the plants while young.
Draining. — We may here mention that Mr Monteith has ex-
erted himself, in the most praiseworthy manner, to introduce agri-
cultural improvements. He has drained and improved the fieMs
in his own hands, and to such purpose as to double their value.
558 LANARKSHIRE.
The following memorandum will best exhibit what he has done.
It is supplied by one who has superintended personally the whole
of the operations mentioned.
Mr Monteith commenced draining in 1836, on the plan recom-
mended by Mr Smith of Deanston, called " the Frequent Drain
System." For the first two years stone drains were used, and
finished in the following manner : — Dimensions, 13 inches wide
at top ; 6 inches wide at bottom ; 2^ feet deep ; filled one foot,
with stones broken to pass through a 2J inch ring, on the top of
which was laid an inverted turf, and the loose earth filled in above
it with a plough or shovels. The cutting and filling cost 2s. 9d.
per rood, (the subsoil being all to pick ;) the stones cost 3s. per
yard for quarrying, breaking, and cartage of two miles ; and two
yards were required for one rood, or 36 yards of a drain. The
drains were 18 feet apart, so 26| roods are required per Scots
acre. The whole expense per Scots acre is as follows :
Cutting and filling 26f roods at 2s. 9d., . L. 3 12 10£
534 yards of stones at 3s., . . 806
. L. 11 13 41
The operation of subsoil ploughing, performed the following sea-
son, was done thus : — A common plough, with three horses yoked
abreast, takes a furrow, one foot broad, and ten inches deep, and
is followed by the subsoil plough of 400 weight, drawn by five
horses, three abreast, and two in front, taking a furrow in the bot-
tom of the last one seven inches deep. This operation turns the
soil, and breaks up (but does not turn) the subsoil to the depth of
17 inches. The subsoil ploughing is always performed at right
angles with the drains, and costs L. 1, 16s. per Scots acre.
The tile- work, already noticed, was erected in 1838; and drain-
ing with tiles is now preferred to stone drains, being much cheaper.
The drains for tiles are made 12 inches wide at top, 5 inches wide
at bottom, and 2 feet deep. The soles and tiles are then laid,
and covered with an inverted turf, and the loose earth is filled in
similar to the stone drains. The drains, for the most part, are put
in 18 feet apart, and cost as follows :
Cutting and filling 26f roods at Is. 10d., . L. 2 9 0£
2500 tiles at L. 1, 10s. per thousand, . . 3 15 0
Cartage two miles, 2s 6d. per do., . ' ." 039
When soles are required in soft land, add 2500 soles L. 6 7
at 15s., . • . 1 17
Cartage of soles at Is. 3d., . . 0 1
L. 8 7 2
Add subsoiling, as formerly, . . 1 16 0
; L. 10 3 2
CARSTAIRS. 559
This operation, although expensive, has hitherto done more than
double the value of the land ; and the proprietor is amply remu-
nerated for his outlay by the two succeeding crops, besides getting
his land laid down in a superior state, being quite level, and without
furrows.
The reaping-machine was introduced in 1 836. It does its work
very neatly in favourable circumstances, viz. when the ground is
level, free of stones, and the corn not lodged ; but, owing to the
climate and exposure of this parish, it is not likely ever to be
generally adopted. The machine was made at Carstairs Mains,
and constructed on the principle of Mr Smith's invention, which
has been generally known throughout Scotland for the last ten
years.
Leases and Rotations. — Leases, in general, run nineteen years ;
but many farms in this parish were let for fifty-seven years by the
late Mr Fullerton, and at amazingly low rents, which in the pre-
sent day bear no proportion at all to the advanced price of land.
The low rate at which farms were formerly let tended to foster
indolence and slovenliness, and operated as a direct hinderance to
every species of improvement ; while, on the contrary, upon farms
where the rent has been more than doubled, the tenant is found
to be in much better circumstances, — thus affording a certain de-
monstration, that the rise has only stimulated to more useful and
profitable exertion. The rotations in general practice are as fol-
lows : — 1st, From lea, one or two crops of oats ; 2d, a green crop,
viz. potatoes or turnips ; 3d, oats or barley, sown down with grass
and clover-seeds ; 4th, a crop of hay. Some persons at this stage
most injudiciously turn up the land for a fresh crop, while the
more skilful allow it to remain in pasture for two or three years.
The rotation occupies at the farthest eight years ; at the least six,
if regularly followed out.
Rent. — The valued rent of the parish is L. 2150 Scots; and
the real rent, as given in by the former incumbent in 1794, was
upwards of L. 2000 Sterling, It has now advanced to nearly
L. 5000 ; and when the long leases of the former proprietor of
Carstairs estate shall have expired, a much greater advance will
take place.
Manufactures. — This is wholly an agricultural parish ; no ma-
nufactures of any kind being carried on, except what is termed
" customary work,'' executed by a few weavers, who are also em-
ployed by the Lanark agents for some manufacturing houses h*
560 LANARKSHIRE.
Glasgow, to work up cotton fabrics. These weavers are as often
found handling implements of manual labour in the field as on the
loom-board, — the former employment being found more pleasant
and more profitable than the latter.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Market-Towns. — There is no market- town in the parish; the
nearest are those of Lanark and Carnwath, — the first, four ; and
the other, two and a half miles distant from the church.
Villages. — There are two villages in the parish, — Carstairs, con-
taining the church and parochial school, and Ravenstruther, a mile
and a half to the west. We have already spoken of the aspect of
Carstairs village, and the improvement made on it by the proprie-
tor. It contains 420 inhabitants, Ravenstruther 1 00,
Inns. — There is one inn in the village of Carstairs, the tenant
of which is licensed to retail spirits. A second existed for a short
period ; but the license being withdrawn, the premises were con-
verted to other uses. One inn is quite sufficient for the place and
the parish, if even one be necessary. There is not a drunkard in
the parish.
Means of Communication. — The great road from Lanark to
Edinburgh by Carnwath, as well as that by Wilsontown, and the
road from Glasgow to Peebles, all pass through this parish, and
are kept in excellent repair. The parish roads, kept up by the
statute labour conversion money, are also in excellent order. A
coach from Lanark to Edinburgh plies daily, and is well support-
ed. The means of communication are thus abundant.
Ecclesiastical State. — The earliest information which can be col-
lected on this subject is, that, in A. D. 1170, the church and ba-
rony of Carstairs, with right to present to the benefice, were, by
several bulls from different popes, confirmed to Robert Wishart,
Bishop of Glasgow, during the period when Bruce and Baliol con-
tended for the Scottish Crown, and referred the decision of their
right to Edward I. of England, who usurped the sovereignty. This
church and barony remained vested in the see of Glasgow till the
total demolition of church property, at the Reformation in 1588.
The rectory of the .church of Carstairs, with its property and re-
venues, had been constituted a prebend of the Cathedral church
of Glasgow, and the cure was served by a vicar. By a taxation of
the prebends in that bishopric in 1401 for the use of the Cathed-
ral, Carstairs was at that time assessed in two merks per annum.
In Bagimont's Roll the prebend was taxed L. 4 Scots yearly ;
CARSTAIttS. 561
and the vicarage L. 2, 13s. 4d. At the Reformation the preben-
dary parsonage was held by Bishop Kennedy, and the vicarage by
Mr John Scott. The former was then reported at eight and a
half chalders meal, and one-third bear, the latter at L. 40. The
aggregate of the prebend in money was L. 105, 12s. By the act
of annexation 1588, when all the church lands were annexed to
the Crown, the superiority passed into the hands of the sovereign.
It would appear, that when the estate of Carstairs was conveyed to
Sir James Hamilton, (of which conveyance no record is to be found
in history,) the benefice and all other pertinents were bestowed
on him also. Both are now held by H. Monteith, Esq.
The parish church, with its surrounding burying-ground, stands
in the centre of the village on a rising ground, a situation exceed-
ingly well chosen for the convenience of the population generally.
It was rebuilt in 1794, and is ornamented with a spire and clock.
It affords 430 sittings, all of which are divided among the heritors,
according to their respective valuations, and again subdivided
among the tenants, excepting the seat of the patron, according to
the size of their respective farms. None of the seats are let. The
families in the village of Carstairs, having no sittings attached to
their feus or houses, complain of the want of accommodation, and,
in consequence, some have left the Established Church and join-
ed the Dissenters.
There is no Dissenting place of worship in the parish. The
Dissenters who reside in it are chiefly connected with the Relief
and Associate Synods, and attend the places of worship belonging
to these sects in Lanark and at Braehead, in the adjoining parish
of Carnwath.
Number of families attending the Established Church, 163;
number of Dissenting or Seceding families, 42.
An elegant and commodious manse, with offices and garden-wall,
was built in 1820, on a new and very eligible site, about five mi-
nutes' walk from the church. The glebe contains 13 acres, in-
cluding the ground occupied by the garden, manse, and offices
It may be valued at L. 40 yearly.
The stipend, which was augmented in 1819, amounts to 15
chalders, half meal and half barley, estimated at the rate of the
highest fiars in the county, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion ele-
ments.
Education. — There are two schools in the parish the parochial
school in the village, and a private school at Ravenltruther. The
562 LANARKSHIRE.
parochial school is attended by about sixty scholars, and the
branches taught are, English reading, grammar, arithmetic, book-
keeping, practical mathematics, Latin, Greek, and geography.
The fees for English reading are, 2s. 6d. a quarter; for writing, 3s.;
for English grammar, 3s. 6d. ; for arithmetic and practical mathe-
matics, 4s. ; for Latin and Greek, 5s. ; for book- keeping, L. 1, Is.
No extra charge is made for geography ; and the fee for the higher
branches always includes the lower. The salary is the maximum,
L.34, 4s. 4^d., with a free house and the statutory quantity of
ground for a garden. The schoolmaster, also, receives the produce
of a mortification (left by Sir James Lockhart of Carstairs, Bart,
in 1751,) that yields about L. 1, 10s., annually, and for which he
pays 5s. of feu-duty to the superior. Taking into account the
salary, school-fees, and perquisites belonging to the session and
heritors' clerk, the amount received by the teacher may be esti-
mated at L-75 yearly.
The private school at Ravenstruther has no salary attached to
it. It is attended by about 65 scholars, a considerable number of
whom come from the parish of Lanark.
The inhabitants of the parish seem alive to the advantages of
education. The children are sent young to school, generally
about five years of age ; so that they are able to read and write
before they are nine. There are none in the parish above ten
years of age who cannot read.
Library. — There is a library in the village of Carstairs, con-
taining about 350 volumes, tolerably well chosen. It is gradually
increasing, although the fund is but small.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor upon
the roll may be stated at 8. These are wholly supported by col-
lections made in the church, which may average 10s. weekly, and
the interest of L. 200 ; together with the mortcloth dues, amount-
ing to about L. 1, 10s. yearly. There are many more who receive
occasional aid in the shape of money, clothes, coal, and house-
rent. There is no assessment, as in some of the surrounding pa-
rishes, and the non-resident heritors, with one honourable excep-
tion, have hitherto contributed nothing to the support of the poor.
Fuel. — From the extent of moss in the parish, peat is used as a
considerable portion of the fuel. But the vicinity to coals, as well
as their comparative cheapness, and the labour and expense of pre-
paring peat, induce as great, if not a greater, consumpt of coals
than peat.
3
CARLUKE. 563
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Since the former Statistical Account was written, the population
has increased. The value of land has risen also considerably, and
the farms, which have been let since the present proprietor ac-
quired the property, have been so improved as to wear a totally
different aspect. Mr Monteith takes a deep interest in all agri-
cultural improvements, and has exhibited them on his own home
farm to a very great extent. It is not saying too much to affirm,
that his residence in the parish has proved a blessing of no ordi-
nary character. Besides affording constant employment to the la-
bouring classes, and striving to render their situation comfortable,
he takes every opportunity of discountenancing vice, and promot-
ing true religion, by his personal example.
January 1839.
PARISH OF CARLUKE.
PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. JOHN WYLIE, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — THE earliest notice of Carluke parish occurs in a char-
ter of Robert I., by which he grants to the monks of Lesmahute
ten merks yearly, from the revenue of his mills of Maldeslay, for
the purpose of supporting lights at the tomb of St Machute.* In a
second charter of the same monarch, dated 8th March 1315, he
conveys to these monks from his mills of Carluke, other ten merks
yearly, to supply eight wax lights for the tomb of Machute, on
Sundays and festivals. In the same reign, the Church of Eglis-
Maluack, in Strathclyde, with all its rights and pertinents, is grant-
ed by the King to the monks of Kelso. From these facts, it is
supposed that the name of the church was Eglis-Maluack, whilst
the parish in general was distinguished by the appellation of Car-
luack or Carluke. The former of these names is supposed to be
* Spotiswood's " Religious Houses," appended to Hope's Minor Practicks of the
Law of Scotland, p. 442.
564 LANARKSHIRE.
compounded of the three Gaelic words, Eglis, a church, Maol,
shaved, hence a saint, and Luac, Luke, — the church of St Luke.
Carluke appears to be compounded of Caer, hill and Luac, the
hill of St Luke, — a name applicable to the elevated nature of the
greater portion of the parish.*
Extent, Boundaries, Appearance, fyc. — The length of the pa-
rish, from west to east, is about 8 miles, and its greatest breadth
4J miles. It is bounded on the south by Lesmahagow, from which
it is divided by the river Clyde ; on the west by Cambusnethan,
Garrion Gill dividing the two parishes ; on the north, likewise
by Cambusnethan ; and on the east and south-east, by Carnwath,
Carstairs, and Lanark, the boundaries between the latter parish
and it being March Gill.
The different portions of the parish vary much from each other,
both in temperature and appearance. Along the immediate mar-
gin of the Clyde, there stretches a narrow but rich tract of warm
sheltered holm land, expanding, at a few points, into luxuriant
plains or haughs of considerable width ; beyond which the banks
of the river rise rapidly to a height of from 400 to 500 feet above
the level of the sea. From the summit of these banks, which is
well defined by a ridge of hard sandstone, there extends to the
village a sort of table-land, at the west extremity of which is the
Law of Mauldslee, a hill of considerable size. On this elevated
level, the land is well enclosed, and, though a stiff clay, is in ge-
neral possessed of considerable fertility. Behind the village, again,
the land, which is at first divided and well cultivated, rises gradually
* By the following tradition, the name of the parish is derived from a different
source. The church was formerly situated in the forest of Mauldsleef (hence it was
sometimes called the Forest Kirk,) close to the banks of the Clyde. This situation,
being at the extremity of the parish, was found inconvenient, and it was therefore
proposed that the church should be removed to a more centrical spot. This propo-
sal met with strong opposition from a part of the population, who clung to the holy
ground, and, after much difficulty, could only be brought to agree that the new site
should be the Law of Mauldslee, a situation not far from the old one. This, how-
ever, not meeting the views of the opposite party, it was at length determined that the
dispute should be submitted to the arbitration of Providence. With this view a
pow (skull) was taken from the ancient burial ground, and, together with a burning
peat, was laid on the proposed site at the Law. If the pffw and peat remained, that was
to be the spot ; but if they should be removed by " a Guiding hand" tile church was
to be erected wherever they might be found. They were removed, and the whole
parish was raised to seek for the pow and the peat. After much search, tbey were at
last, to the great joy of the people, discovered by Symeon Haddow of Easterseat, on the
spot where the church was eventually erected, about two miles nearer Symeon's house
than the Law. The truth was, that the Guiding hand was none other than that of
Symeon himself, a secret which was carefully kept within his family for many genera-
tions. Hence the name Kirk-look,— the looking for the kirk. The derivation is,
of course, absurd j but there can be little doubt as to the reference to Providence
and its result.
4
CARLUKE. 565
towards the east, until it at last terminates in a track of wild moor-
land.
To one travelling along the Lanark and Glasgow road, on the
opposite side of the Clyde, the lower part of our parish presents
an aspect highly picturesque. The banks of the river, richly clothed
with fruit and forest trees, and studded with comfortable cottages,
and farm-houses, or, here and there, with the more aspiring edi-
fices of the rich, form, altogether, a prospect that is perhaps not
surpassed by many others in Scotland. None, however, can form
a proper idea of the extreme beauty of the district, but those who
have explored the numerous romantic glens or gills, through which
the streamlets, rising in the higher quarters of the parish, find
their way to the Clyde.
Mountains, Caves. — The hills in the parish of any great height
are four in number ; Kilcadzow Law, Lee Law, King's Law, and
Law of Mauldslie. Of these, Kilcadzow Law, which is the most
elevated, is about 150 feet higher than the gate of Cleghorn ave-
nue ; which, again, is stated in Telford's railway survey, to be 743
feet above the level of high water at the Broomielaw. The only
caverns in the parish are some shelving recesses in the banks of
Garrion and other gills, to which the country people are said to
have scrambled for concealment, dragging their horses after them,
during the commotions in the reigns of the Charleses ; as also, when
the Highlanders were traversing the country in 1745-6.
Climate. — As the whole of the parish, with the exception of
the small portion of it situated in the trough of the Clyde, is ex-
posed to the full sweep of the west and south-west winds, which
prevail here, often with great violence, for nearly three-fourths of
the year, the climate is, in consequence, both cold and damp. It
is far, however, from being unhealthy. The prevalent distempers
are inflammatory affections ; such as pneumonia, pleuritis, in-
flammatory affections of the windpipe, terminating frequently in
phthisis during the upward portion of life ; rheumatism is common
during the advanced period of life. On the Clyde, fever, when
it. occurs, is of a lower type, — assuming a typhoid character, more
frequently than in the middle and higher portions of the parish.
Hydrography. — Springs are numerous, so much so, indeed, as
sometimes almost to constitute a nuisance. Some of them stand
high in repute for their medicinal qualities, as the Physic Well, a
ferruginous spring near Carluketown ; Duds' Well, a spring of the
o o
566 LANARKSHIRE.
same nature near Chapel.* Guy's Well, a sulphurous chalybeate
in Garrion Gill, f/rom which Guy Hamilton, afterwards mentioned,
was executed for being concerned in the Pentland rising, was accus-
tomed to drink, whilst lurking from his pursuers. There are nu-
merous petrifying springs, as they are called, at the tower of
Hallbar, Jock's Gill, Bashaw, &c. For notices of an ancient- lake
and river course, we would refer to the geological department, to
which they more properly belong.
Geology and Mineralogy. — The geological features of the pa-
rish are interesting in many points of view ; but as even a sketch
would occupy too much space, we shall notice only the more im-
portant.
Towards the western boundary of the parish, portions of the
main and splint coal of the Clyde field, with their attendant seams,
crop out ; on the south-eastern divison, the old red sandstone
presents itself — so that within three miles of surface, the whole
inferior coal seams, and the carboniferous limestone range, are in-
cluded. Taking the order of superposition, we shall first notice
t"he coal, which has a peculiar distribution in the district.
1. The first or highest workable coal is found at Law of Maulds-
lie, called the soft coal,^ of 10 feet, lying about 14 fathoms above
the main coal.
2. Four fathoms above the main coal there is a seam of 2 feet
9 inches (the Pyetshaw coal of the Monklands).
3. The main coal, a seam 5 feet thick.
4. The splint coal, from 14 to 16 fathoms under the main
coal, and of nearly the same thickness.
Between these last, there are two seams, the one six inches, the
other about a foot. The same arrangement, with trifling diffe-
rences, takes place at Chapel, in Cambusnethan parish, close on our
north-west, boundary, the soft coal being out of the section. The
dip of the strata, in the extreme west and south, (without the fault
about to be noticed,) is nearly due west.
An extensive fault or upcast, the boundary of which, consisting
of a mass of freestone, is traceable from the lower part of Fid-
dler Gill, on the south, in a semicircular direction by Jock's Gill,
Law, and Bogside, or, in other words, south by west to north, brings
the coal seams above enumerated to the surface. A considerable
portion of the coal range, however, which lies nearer the Clyde, in
* Dr Duds, a chirurgeon of some celebrity in his time, lived at Chapel in 1696.
•f Throughout this account the local names have been adopted.
CARLUKE. 567
the Garrion, Brownlee, Mauldslie, and Milton-Lockhart estates, re-
mains unaffected by this fault, and continues its course rising to
the south-east. But on the eastern side of the fault, a new ar-
rangement takes place. What may be called the Carluke coal
basin is formed. At the north-west parts of the parish, the infe-
rior coal seams are introduced by an up -cast of 50 fathoms per-
haps ; at the Theafal stane in Jock's Gill (a well-marked point in
the course of this fault,) on the east side, the limestone range is
brought to the surface, — an upcast of considerable extent ; and
at Samson's sling stone in the Fiddler Gill (another well-mark-
ed point) the upcast is still greater. The extent of the Carluke
coal basin, of which the fault above noticed is one of the grand
boundaries, is well ascertained. Words, however, cannot ade-
quately supply the place of a diagram in giving an idea of it, —
but when we state that it describes as usual a curve, and that the
out-croppings of the coal and lime take a semicircular form north
by west to east, the convexity being west and south, we shall pre-
sume that we are understood. Taking the east side of the fault
above described, near Bogside and Hyndshaw, as the northern li-
mit, and passing due south, the out-croppings of the under seams
of the coal are found in Braidwood estate, about a mile south of
the town of Carluke, a distance of about three miles. Westward
below Whiteshaw bridge, on the estate of Milton-Lockhart, is the
boundary in that direction, and, passing eastwards, the out-crop-
pings take place beyond Belston bridge — a distance of about two
miles. The centre of the basin is near Castlehill iron works,
and of course the dip is towards that point from all directions. In
this basin the following seams are wrought :
1. The first or highest is what is here called Castlehill first
seam, of about three feet ; a soft coal of inferior quality, but found
to answer the furnace. Has the appearance of a lignite, and while
burning sends out sparks like peat.
2. From seven to eight fathoms below is the Castlehill second
seam, of good quality, but not so thick.
3. At from seven to eight fathoms lower occurs the Castlehill
third seam, of four feet, with a rib of shale in the under portion ;
a coal also of good quality.
4. Four fathoms lower, the Castlehill fourth seam is found, of
two feet, and of good quality.
5. At a considerable unascertained distance lower, the Castle-
568 LANARKSHIRE.
hill fifth seam is found of two feet, which is rather of superior
quality.
6, 7. At a considerable unascertained distance lower, and be-
low the first limestones, two seams are found, called the Carluke
seams, the one about two feet, and the other, twelve feet lower, a
little thicker, the uppermost being of good quality.
8. Lastly, at the distance of eleven fathoms is the Tower coal,
of two and a half feet, found at Whiteshaw Bridge. A number of
crow seams, as they are called, besides these, are seen, not worth
working.
Southward, at Orchard, on the other side of the fault before-
described, and' in relative connection with the coal range passing
up the Clyde, unaffected by the fault, one of the Carluke seams is
wrought ; and at Tower of Halbar, also on the south of the fault,
the Carluke (6 and 7) and the Tower (8) seams are also wrought.
At Mashockmill, sixteen fathoms below the Tower coal, the
Lesmahagow cannel, or gas coal, is found, which here is from
ten to sixteen inches, with ten inches of dross coal below. This
coal has not been found in what we have called the Carluke
basin of sufficient thickness to pay the working of it ; but its lo-
cality occupies a wide circle.
At Gare, towards the eastern boundary of the parish, the lime
bands which lie above the Carluke coal seams (6 and 7) are in-^
troduced by a downcast of great extent, and of course these coal
seams, and those lying under them, occur in that quarter, in con-
nection with another basin which has only been partially explored.
A large extent of the main, splint, &c. seams on the estates of
Brownlee, Mauldslie, and Milton- Lockhart, on the west and south
of the fault, bounding the Carluke basin on these points, has never
been examined or worked ; and till very lately, the outcroppings
only of the Castlehill first and the Carluke seams have been
wrought, so that, in a sense, the Carluke coal basin, and the field
to the south and west of it are untouched. The entire coal range
in the parish (containing 45 or 46 small seams, besides those
above-mentioned), consists of a succession of shales, freestones,
fire-clay, ironstone, &c. and corresponds with that at Shotts, Wil-
soritown, and Douglas. The only important fault in this basin
is a slip or upcast of from 40 to 50 fathoms, running in the di-
rection of one of the boundaries already given, namely, from be-
low Whiteshaw Bridge to Belston.
Between the coal and the principal limestone beds, there is a
CARLUKE. 5GO
thick mass of coarse-grained sandstone, and a succession of the
same stone in laminae, in the situation of the millstone grit. This
and many of the freestones in the coal range are used for build-
ings, and many of them are of the best quality for that purpose.
Limestone. — The workable lime bands in the parish are five in
number, — all of them occurring under the coal, except the first,
and that is the uppermost of the two found above Carluke coal. (6.)
1. The Gare band or bed, of about four feet and a half, worked
at Gare, Westerhouse, and Bashaw. It is esteemed highly by the
agriculturist of the moorland districts, but it is by no means equal
to the main lime in quantity for general use. The dip at Gare is
in a semicircular form, west, north, and east ; at Westerhouse and
Bashaw it is nearly the same. We place this band first in the list,
as it is geologically the highest in the group here ; but the work-
ings above named are not within the limits of the Carluke basin :
indeed, though known, it has never been wrought in that basin.
2. The Kinshaw (Kingshaw) underhand of two feet and a half,
worked at Kinshaw, Raes, partially at Birkfield, seen in a pit at
Braidwood, and in a mine at Hillhead. It is a coarse lime of lit-
tle repute, but from its highly stimulating (hot) quality, is valua-
ble as an application to clay soils. The dip at different places is
remarkably varied. At Kinshaw it is north-west ; at Hillhead,
west ; at Braidwood and Raes, north-east.
3. The foul band of four feet, wrought at Mosside, Hillhead,
Leemuir, partially at Raes gill, and seen at Harestanes Loch. It is
of indifferent quality, but has been found fit in some instances for
the furnace in iron-smelting. It passes round the summit of Hill-
head in a semicircular course, and dips north-north-west and west ;
at Leemuir, Harestanes Loch, and Raes gill it dips north -east.
4. The main limestone, of from four to six feet, wrought at Thorn-
muir, Mosside, Hillhead, Langshaw-burn, Harestanes, Braidwood,
and south-west of Kilcadzow. This is a limestone of excellent qua-
lity. Its distribution is very remarkable. At Thorn muir, in the east-
ern division of the parish, it crops out, and has a dip eastwards ; at
Mosside and Hillhead, to the west of Thornmuir, it dips to the
north-west ; at Langshaw-burn, to the south of Hillhead, the dip is
north; and at Harestanes and Braidwood, west of Langshaw-burn,
and at Kilcadzow, the dip is north-east. The Thornmuir working
is in connection with the basin, to which the first (Gare) lime be-
longs, passing eastwards ; the others are in connection with ihe
Carluke basin.
570 LANARKSHIRE.
5. On the confines of the old red sandstone, a band, of about
three feet, which seems to have been wrought near Yieldshields,
said to be of good quality. At all the places enumerated the lime-
stone is found at the surface or outcrop.
A number of others, principally small bands, intermediate with
and under the above-mentioned, at least eight, are seen ; those oc-
curring under the main band having attendant coal seams, like
the main band itself, of from six to eighteen inches. Large
tracks of limestone on the estates of Braidwood, Waygateshaw,
and Milton-Lockhart, have not yet been explored. From what
has been already stated, the numerous faults or casts in this range
may be inferred. Marl has been worked at an early period at
Oldhill, on the estate of Waygateshaw. It is of excellent quality,
and, though long neglected, it is likely to be opened up anew.
ERRATUM.
Page 570, line ninth from bottom, for lead read bed.
of tongue-like projection, on either side of which, by repeated
downcasts, the limestone is continued. The old red sandstone here
bears all the characteristic marks of that range, and abounds with
conglomerates. Some particular parts of the rock used as road
metal, as it is technically called, is preferred for that purpose to
the trap. It constitutes the highest peak in the parish, namely,
Kilcadzow Law.
Ironstone. — Ironstone is found in great abundance throughout
the coal and limestone ranges.
1. Below the main coal there is a band or lead of 9 inches.
2. Above the Castlehill first coal there is a shelly band of 9
inches.
3. In the shale of the roof of the Castlehill second coal, balls
are found equal to a band of 6 inches.
4. In the shale of the Castlehill fifth coal a band of 4 inches
is found.
5. A considerable space below this last named coal the slaty
band of about 9 inches is found.
CARLUKE. 571
6, 7, 8, 9. Above the cannel coal lie the Maggy bands, four in
number, averaging in all about 12 inches.
10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19. Between the caumy *
and foul bands of limestone, lie ten bands of ironstone commonly
called the Raes gill bands, averaging 4 feet in all.
20, 21, 22. Between the foul and main bands of limestone three
bands of ironstone occur, averaging in all about 15 inches. Be-
sides these there are several other bands, making in all about
thirty. A beautiful natural section of the ten bands is seen at
Raes gill, on the estate of Milton -Lockhart, near the western
boundary of Carluke basin, dipping north-east ; and at Billhead,
near the eastern boundary of the same basin, they are found on
edge, dipping west. These bands are found also in Braidwood
lands, at Nellfield, Leemuir, Birkfield, &c.
The geological locality of the black band, of great value in the
Airdrie field, lies within our boundary, but as yet it has not been
discovered.
Minerals. — The following minerals are common in the district.
Quartz in great abundance in the conglomerates of the old red
sandstone, and the boulders of the alluvial clay, &c. A flag stone
of two feet six inches, lying under the first Kinshaw limestone,
consists almost entirely of quartz. Agate, in the old red sandstone ;
mica in layers in freestone rocks, and abundantly diffused through
these rocks ; calcareous spar, in fissures of the limestones ; heavy
spar in the fissures of the old red sandstone ; iron pyrites in fis-
sures of the coal, limestone, ironstone, &c ; galena among the
ironstones at Belston -place and Brockshole^
Calcareous tufa is found in almost every glen and gill in the
track of the limestone. Bitumen, or mineral caouchouc, is found
in the fissures of the coal, and some of the limestones.
Organic Remains. — This is certainly the most interesting
branch of our subject ; but we are little qualified, we find, to do
it justice.
From the foregoing sketch, the domain of the collector will be
seen to be rich and extensive; but his labours have hitherto been
necessarily very much circumscribed. The extensive operations,
however, lately begun for the supply of the Castlehill iron works have
removed many impediments, and with so few labourers, the collec-
* A band of limestone, of from 3 to 9 feet, not before particularly noticed, as it is
not wrought, nor is it as a limestone worth working ; it is the first lime above the
foul band (3), the distance between them being 54 feet,
572 LANARKSHIIlE.
tion already formed is by no means contemptible, as may be con-
ceived, when we say that a simple catalogue would exceed our pre-
scribed limit.
In the remarks to be made on this branch, we shall keep by
the order of the previous part, beginning with the first coal in the
Carluke basin.
Our coal-field is rich both in fossil plants and animals.
Plants. — -The roof of the Castlehill first coal, in an old work-
ing, presents a picture which words cannot adequately describe :
The shale abounds with, nay, seems to consist of a tissue of beauti-
ful vegetable stems and imprints of the genera Lepidodendron, Si-
gillarict) Calamites, Spkenopteres, and many others ; the Stigmarla
along with some of the above, and what we conceive to be cones
of the LepidodendroH) are got from the shale of the Castlehill se-
cond coal ; — and from the lower seams some of the Equisetum
tribe, and leaves of aborescent ferns are procured. A magnificent
specimen of the Sigillaria pachyderma^'m a perpendicular position,
was found in clearing out the foundation for the furnaces at Castle-
hill, measuring 3 feet in circumference, but it was totally destroy-
ed. A fine flattened specimen of the same kind is preserved, each
rib of the fluting of which measures 2J inches, giving for the en-
tire plant a great circumference. From the small collection al-
ready made from these coal seams alone, twenty-five species have
been selected, many of them of great beauty.
Animals. — Fishes are found entire, and vast quantities of bones,
teeth, vertebrae, scales, and other exuviae are procured from the
bituminous shale of the Castlehill second coal. Among these are
identified good specimens of jaws of the Megaliclithys, Plesiosanrus,
and Teleosaurus, &c. ; and teeth of the two first mentioned from
1J inch in length downwards; bones of the Pterodactylus ; feet
and bones of the bat tribe ; dorsal spines of the Hybodus and some
others, one measuring 9 inches in length ; scales of the turtle, &c.
Some of the remains found in this shale (particularly one jaw) are
not figured by any writer we have consulted. A circle of bone
too, supposed to be that which surrounded the lucid cornea of
some reptile monster, found of varied dimensions, from an inch
and three-quarters to half an inch diameter, is unique so far as we
know. Shells of four species have been got in the shales and iron-
stone balls of the Castlehill coal seams.
The freestones also abound in vegetable remains ; and without
CARLUKE.
much hesitation we would say, that some remarkable animals have
been found in the millstone grit series.
Plants. — From the freestones twelve species have been selected.
A very perfect tree of the coniferous class, with its minute branches,
was a short time since laid bare at Harestanes quarry. It mea-
sured about 40 feet in length, and was proportionably thick : the
minuter branches were so perfect that an onlooker found some diffi-
culty in believing them to be anything but recent branches of the
Scotch fir. It was broken up and removed, but some good speci-
mens have been preserved.
Animals. — Several specimens of what appears to have been
lizards, and also vast quantities of eel-like creatures have been
found on Milton- Lockhart estate near Hallcraig Bridge. The
forms are very perfect, but the animal structure is by no means
so ; indeed they are mere casts. Some hope is entertained that
specimens may yet be found which may retain traces of the struc-
ture. The ripple mark on the laminated freestones is very common.
All the limestones and the shales in connection are charged with
animal remains : from thousands of specimens, 120 species and
upwards have already been procured, among which are the follow-
ing. Madrepora, 4 ; Encrinoida, 25 ; Univalves, 34, consisting
of Ammonites, Nautitites, Orthoceratites, Euomphalus, Belemnites,
Cirrus, Helix, &c. ; Bivalves, 54, consisting of Producti, Spirifer,
Cardium, Modiola, Mya, Terebratula, &c. ; also Trilobites and
teeth of the shark tribe, &c. One of the Orthoceratites measures
12 inches circumference. A very beautiful encrinal marble, which
receives a fine polish, has lately been found on Braidwood estate
about 20 inches thick : it is literally a mass of encrinites.
Among the ironstones, five are shelly bands, as they are called.
In the old red sandstone here, no organic remains have as yet
been found.
Trap. — A ridge of trap extends from Hillhead eastwards as far
as Bashaw (about a rnile) both on the north-east. Whether it
extends farther we have no means of judging, as a hill of consi-
derable elevation rises over its north-east apparent limit, which
consists of freestone. It is very probable that this hill, called Kings
Law, owes its origin to the eruption of the trap. Be this as it may,
the trap exists in the line of an extensive derangement of the strata,
but it is not evident throughout, we admit, how far, in producing
this, it is concerned. On the east of the trap, a new basin of
574 LANARKSHIRE.
coal and lime is formed, where the old red sandstone would na-
turally be looked for ; at the west point of the trap, the foul lime-
stone with its attendant numerous bands of ironstone start on edge,
are dislocated, bend back upon themselves, and lie on either side
in a position exactly as if broken in upon by a powerful agent —
the whole superior strata around Billhead participating in this
change. On the north of the trap, and close to it, the foul band
of limestone dips north ; at its westernmost point, the dip of that lime-
stone is west ; and to the south, the dip is south-west. In other words,
the summit of Billhead is the trap, and around its westernmost point
the strata is ranged in a semicircular form. Where the trap is
wrought, it is from 1 8 to 20 feet thick ; its columnar form here
is beautifully seen, as well as its effects on the adjacent and sub-
jacent strata. It overlays a blackish shale resembling (probably
from its altered state) in no respect the shale of the corresponding
stratum ; and on the west extremity it is overlayed by a few thin
seams of freestone. The blue shale (slate-clay) lyingabove the foul
band of limestone, on which the course of the trap seems to have
been arrested is changed to the colour of brick, quite like what it
is when burnt. Near the trap, in the shales in its course, large
masses, of what from description we believe to be magnesite, has
been found. To take a position on the west point of the trap,
and enumerate what we find around within a few hundred yards,
a remarkable catalogue is produced. South-east and east the
main limestone is close at hand ; to the south-west and north-west
lie all the limestones from the foul band upwards, including about
twenty bands of ironstone, all at the outcrop ; and on the north
there is a large deposit of peat. The trap is used as road metal,
if we are allowed to use the common phrase.
Alluvial Deposits. — The north-east corner of the parish is al-
most entirely covered with peat, in some places to the depth of
12 feet. Throughout, it consists of a fibrous mass, containing a
vast number of trees of all sizes, generally lying with their roots
to the west, stems of reeds, large leaves of plants, and hazel nuts.
In some places, the peat merely overlays the outcroppings of the
limestone, freestone, &c. but more generally a dense arenacious
clay containing boulders, in which near its surface the roots of
plants in some places are found. It is common to find beets (sheaves)
of lint and quantities of lint -seed five, six, and seven feet below
the surface of the peat, in what no doubt had been steeping pools.
3
CARLUKE. 575
With few exceptions, the dense clay found under the peat per-
vades the whole district. A deposit of fine quartzose sand, fit for
the crystal manufactory, is found on the south base of Kingslaw ;
and in the valley near Lee, and on the banks of the Clyde, but
much above its present bed, extensive deposits of sand and gravel
occur, as at Braehead, Gills, Waygateshaw, and Milton- Lockhart,
&c.
The soil necessarily is of the same quality as the subsoil, modi-
fied by the disintegration of some of the rocks, by the air, by heat,
and by artificial processes. Above the old red sandstone, however,
in the south-eastern division, the soil is, to use a common phrase,
lighter. The loamy soils are found at places favourable only from
their position, as the flats around rising grounds, the holms of the
Clyde, &c.
Cla^ fit for a variety of purposes, such as brick-making and the
pottery manufactures, abounds. Large deposits of white plastic
clay are found in Braidwood lands, at Thorn, &c.
On the Hyndshaw lands, in the north-west, there is a good ex-
ample of an ancient lake converted into a flat deep rich soil. In
some places, the depth of the soil is found to be many feet, consist-
ing of slimy layers, and at other places the clay projects in the
form of what may have been little islets. Tradition dates its ex-
istence at no remote period. An outlet seems to have been got
by cutting through the rock on its western boundary. On its mar-
gin, there are places named Waterlands and Bogside. Many
fathoms under the surface, the course of a considerable river was
discovered some years ago, while working one of the under seams
of coal at Orchard ; and lately, near the same place, and in the
same plane, in the cannel-coal workings, it was again come upon.
The coal in its course is worn through and finely polished. We
have little hesitation in entertaining the belief that this must have
been the continuation of the river which at one time flowed through
Lee Valley, of which positive evidence exists in addition to what
is implied in the word Lee. *
The courses of our numerous little streams arising in the higher
parts of the parish, principally from Kingslaw, and flowing towards
the Clyde, afford excellent scope to the geological inquirer ; and
the equally numerous gills through which these streams flow im-
mediately above the Clyde, are (apart from their intrinsic beauty)
* Lli, a stream.
570 LANARKSHIRE,
sections of the strata, presenting many interesting geological phe-
nomena.
Zoology. — Roe-deer are still found, though few in number, in
the Gills opening to the Clyde, and especially in the woods of
Milton-Lockhart. Pheasants have increased much of late. The
badger is now extinct, and the otter nearly so. The cross-bill,
after an absence of eleven years, has again paid us a visit, in con-
siderable numbers. (August 1838.)
Botany. — The Flora of the district is rich, as might be expected,
from the variety of soil and exposure, including sheltered glens,
marshes, open meadows, and moorland. We possess, however,
no rare plants, unless Carduus nutatis, musk-thistle ; Epipactis
latifolia.) broad-leaved helleborine, found at Mauldslie, and Do-
ronicum pardalianches, great leopard's-bane, found in abundance
at Hallcraig, be considered such.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
The only account of the parish, that we are aware of, is to be
found in Hamilton of Wishaw's manuscript description of the
sheriffdom of Lanark, contained in the Advocates' Library, Edin-
burgh. Scattered notices of Carluke likewise occur in the eccle-
siastical histories, and in some pamphlets and sermons published
in the seventeenth century. From these, as well as from the pa-
rish records, it is sufficiently obvious, that our good people were
imbued with fully their own share of the covenanting spirit, which
distinguished the west of Scotland.
During the earlier period of the reign of the first Charles, a
manifesto was published at Carluke kirk door, denouncing the
reigning monarch and his posterity, which caused much commo-
tion, and was followed by a strict inquiry. The minister of the
parish, Mr John Weir, appears to have abandoned his charge for
fourteen or fifteen weeks, in order to perform military duty against
Montrose in 1645. The sederunt of session bearing the date of
the 26th November in that year, professes to be " the first ses-
sion after ye minister his returne and ye defait of ye enimies at
Philiphaugh." After his said return, the minister, with his el-
ders, seems to have taken strict account with those accused of
" traffiquing with ye enemies," condemning several to " publict re-
pentance" for so doing. *
* This trajflquing , in most instances, amounted to no more, than merely procuring
a protection from the royal general. Amongst those rebuked is " Helen Allan, who
CARLUKE. 577
At a later period, William Lockhart of Wicketsbaw, with a
party of Carluke men, was one of the first to take a share in the
rising, which terminated in the defeat at Rullion Green. * For
his share in this transaction, a sentence of forfeiture was passed
against his property, and that of Bell of Westerhouse, who had
accompanied him.f In the proclamation, dated 9th May 1668,
authorizing the seizure of those persons who had refused to avail
themselves of the bill of indemnity, passed the previous year, there
occur the names of no less than fourteen Carluke parishioners, — a
number, we believe, greater than that belonging to any of the
other parishes implicated. These individuals were, — William
Jack, William and John Gilkersons, William Frame, Archibald,
Robert, and Gabriel Forrest, Thomas Martin, John Secular,
James Armstrong, William King, Archibald Hastie, Robert Smith,
and William Brown. Amongst the first ten individuals who were
condemned for being concerned in the Pentland rising, and exe-
cuted on Friday the 7th December 1666, was Gavin Hamilton,
in Park of Mauldslie, an elder of the parish. J
Land-Owners. — The barony of Lee is situated partly in the pa-
rish of Carluke, and partly in that of Lanark. It has been the pro-
perty of the Lockharts since they came into Scotland, with other
Norman families in the reign of David I., and is now held by Sir
Norman Macdonald Lockhart of Lee and Carnwath, Bart, whose
younger brother Alexander represents the county in Parliament.
The barony of Braidwood belonged formerly to the Earls of
Douglas, § on whose forfeiture in 1455 it was bestowed upon the
Earls of Angus. It passed into the possession of Chancellor
Maitland, then to the Earl of Lauderdale, and ultimately to the
Douglases again. It was sold by James the last Marquis of Dou-
receaved a protection, but procured it not." The buying of plundered goods appears
to have been viewed as a heinous crime. Keeping " comniities as a committiemuii,"
sending " propynes," and being " a souldier" were the crimes of some.
* Kirk ton's Church History of Scotland, p. 234.
f Acts of the Court of Justiciary in 1667.
£ Samson's Riddle, or, a bunch of bitter wormwood bringing forth a bundle of
sweet smelling myrrh, p. i.
The following is the inscription upon a tombstone in the burial-ground of Hamil-
ton, lying upon the heads of John Parker, Gavin Hamilton, James Hamilton, and
Christopher Strang, who suffered at Edinburgh, 7th December 1666.
Stay, passenger, take notice what thou reads ;
At Edinburgh lie our bodies, here our heads.
Our right hands stood at Lanark, — these we want
Because with them, we sware the Covenant.
§ Hamilton's Account.
LANARKSHIRE.
glas to the Lockharts of Carnwath, and is now the property of va-
rious heritors, who hold of Sir Norman Lockhart.
Waygateshaw, formerly Wicketshaw, forms part of the barony
of Touchadam, in Stirlingshire. It was long in the possession
of a branch of the family of Lockhart, but was sold in the reign of
George II. by William Lockhart of Wicketshaw. Part of it has
recently reverted to the family, having become the property of
William Lockhart of Milton-Lockhart, but the principal and most
valuable portion, including the mansion-house, belongs to Samuel
Steel, Esq. of Waygateshaw.
The barony of Milton, now called Milton-Lockhart, to distin-
guish it from another barony of the same name in the lower ward,
was an ancient possession of the Whitefords* of Whiteford. Since
they alienated it about 1640 it has been possessed by several families,
and is now the property of William Lockhart, Esq. of Milton-
Lockhart and Germistown.
Kirkton, anciently church lands belonging to the Abbey of Kel-
so, was in 1662 erected into a barony by Charles II., in favour of
Walter Lockhart, a cadet of the family of Wicketshaw, at that
time its proprietor. It now belongs to John Hamilton, Esq. of
Fairholm.
The most extensive barony in the parish is that of Mauldslie.
It was granted, with other possessions, to the Danielstons or Den-
nistowns of Newark, by a charter of Robert II. dated 1374. From
them it passed by marriage in the year 140*2, to the Maxwells of
Calderwood,f in whose possession it remained till 1640,J when it
was sold to Arthur Erskine of Scotscraig. From him it passed,
by purchase, first to the laird of Alva, and afterwards to Sir
Daniel Carmichael, second son of the first Lord Carmichael, an-
cestor to the Earls of Hyndford. On the death of Andrew, the
last earl, in 1817, the unentailed part, situated on the Clyde,
was, along with the castle, inherited by his nephew, Archibald
Nisbet, Esq. of Carfin. The upper part passed, with the Car-
michael estates, to the heir of entail, and now belongs to Sir
Windham Carmichael Anstruther of Elie and Carmichael, Bart.
* The discontents, which eventually led to the destruction of Regent Morton,
were greatly augmented in 1576, by his putting to the torture Adam Whiteford of
Milton, with his nephew, John Semple of Beltrees, on suspicion of a conspiracy.
Aikman's Hist. Vol. iii. p. 18, and Balfour's Annals of Scotland, Vol. i. p. 364.
Aikman by mistake calls him U ineford.
f Douglas' Baronage, p. 53.
J From a censure in the session books against John Maxwell, younger of Maulds-
lie, the former proprietors appear to have been still residing there in 1662.
CARLUKE. 579
The estate of Whiteshaw, originally part of the barony of Maulds-
lie, was lately sold by General Sir James Stewart Denham, Bart,
to the Shotts Iron Company.
Belston, also originally part of the barony of Mauldslie, passed
through the Livingstons, Lindsays, and Maxwells of Calderwood,
and is now the property of Lord Douglas of Douglas.
Hindshaw is at present, and has been for many ages, part of
the extensive possessions of the Baillies of Lamington.
Valued Rent of the Parish. —
Sir Norman Lockhart of Lee, - - - L. 725 5 6
William Lockhart of Milton-Lockhart, - 580 6 0
Sir Windham C. Anstruther, - - 500 0 0
Lord Douglas of Belstain, - 551 10 6
A. Bailie Cochrane of Hindshaw. - - 470 0 0
Archibald Nisbet of Mauldslie, - - 414 14 10
Shotts Iron Company, Whiteshaw, '' - >: - 380 0 0
Samuel Steel of Waygateshaw, <**.- - 325 14 0
James Brown of Orchard and Lainshaw, *. 303 6 8
John Hamilton of Kirkton, - . - 300 0 0
James Harvey of Brownlee, - ,»•-».' 134 2 2
Nathaniel Stevenson of Braidwood, - - 109 4 4
James Gilchrist of Gillfoot, - • - ' 95 15 0
Proprietors of Mashock Mill, - ; ... r ' 82 0 0
James Bell of Westerhouse, - - 66 13 4
Heirs of Colonel Robertson of Halle raig, - 60 0 0
James Wilson of Kilcadzow, - - 55 0 0
Alexander Macdonald of Springfield, 51 0 0
36 Heritors of inferior valuation, - - 795 7 8
54 Heritors in all possessing of valuation, L. 6000 0 0
Family of Lockhart. — The only family of ancient note, now
more immediately connected with the parish, is that of the Lock-
harts. From time immemorial they have possessed property in
the parish, and Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart of Lee and
Carnwath, chief of the name, is still the principal heritor. For
an account of the family of Lee, see Lanark parish.
Mr Lockhart of Milton-Lockhart is descended from Stephen,
the second son of Sir Stephen Lockhart of Cleghorn, armour-
bearer to King James III., and head of the principal branch of
the house of Lee. Stephen Lockhart of Wicketshaw, great grand-
son of the Stephen aforesaid, married Grizel, daughter of Walter
Carmichael of Hyndford,* by whom he had three sons, William,
who succeeded him, f Robert Lockhart of Birkhill, and Walter
* Douglas Peerage, Vol. i. p. 754.
•( William? Lockhart, as mentioned before, was leader in the seventeenth century of
the Lanarkshire Whigs. Robert of Birkhill had a horse shot under him at Both,
well Bridge. Whilst concealing himself after the battle, the Covenanters in his com-
580 LANARKSHIRE.
Lockhart of Kirkton. Of these three, the elder branch became
extinct in 1776 by the death, without issue, of Sir William Lock-
hart Denham, Bart., grandson of William Lockhart of Wicket-
shaw. The representation of the family thereupon devolved upon
the late Major- General William Lockhart, great grandson of
Robert Lockhart of Birkhill; and on the death of Allan Lockhart
of Cleghorn in 1805, he became the undoubted head, in the male
line, of that branch of the Lockharts. On the death of his grand-
uncle, James Somerville of Corhouse, in 1767, he also became
the representative, in the female line, of the Somervilles of Cam-
busnethan. His nephew, William Lockhart of Milton-Lockhart,
is, after Sir Norman Lockhart, the most extensive proprietor in
the parish.
Eminent Characters. — The only native of the parish of emi-
nence was Major- General Roy, famed as a civil and military en-
gineer, as also for his standard work on Roman antiquities. Chal-
mers, in his Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 64, professes entire ignorance
of his. birth- place, as does also Chambers in his Lives of Eminent
Scotchmen. But the parish register mentions his birth at Milton-
head, on 4th May 1726. His brother Dr Roy was also born in
this parish, and held the bursary in Glasgow College, instituted
for natives of Carluke by the Countess of Forfar. Robert Forrest
and John Greenshields, well known for their eminent skill as self-
taught sculptors, are also natives of this parish. Mr Greenshields
died on 19th April 1835.
Antiquities. — The Roman road, which passed (hrough Clydes-
dale to the western extremity of the wall of Antoninus, ran through
this parish for several miles, in a north-westerly direction ; and
its course may still be traced from the Roman camp, near Cleg-
horn, by Kilcadzow, Coldstream, Yieldshields, and Dyke to Bel-
ston, after passing which, it runs by Castlehill into Cambusnethan
parish. A portion. of it is still very perfect at the Dyke, accom-
panied with its wall or dike, a mound of earth on the north-east
pany, proposed to join in a psalm of praise. Birkhill remonstrated, reminding his
companions, that the enemy war, in close pursuit. He look refuge on the top of a
tree; but had scarcely got himself safely ensconced, when the soldiers pounced upon
his friends, who shortly afterwards ended their career on the scaffold. Mr Lockhart,
however, did not long survive them. Worn out by fatigue and privations, he was
soon after found dead in a moss, and was secretly buried, after night-fall, within the
churcli of Carluke. The sword and pistols he wore at his death have been preserved
by. his family. Walter of Kirkton at first held a commission in the Royal army, but
afterwards espoused the cause of the Covenanters. He held the office of Paymaster
of the Forces in Scotland, and died in Edinburgh Castle, in 1743, aged 87.
CARLUKE. 581
side of the road. At Belston, a branch ran north, by Hyndshaw
and Shotts, to an opening in the wall of Antoninus, near Came-
Ion. A parish tradition affirms Hyndshaw to have been the site
of a Roman town, but there are now no circumstances to corrobo-
rate the report. At Cairney Mount, a knoll about 400 yards to
the west of the Roman road, and at Law, in a spot likewise to the
west of Wattling Street, several coffins have been found, each form-
ed of six flag-stones, containing ashes, and occasionally, at both
places, rude urns full of ashes. Last year, the sexton dug up, in
the burial-ground, a coffin, formed of one stone, with a lid likewise
composed of a single stone. The coffin was oblong on the outside,
but in the interior, cut out to the shape of the human body. Its
length is 6 feet, it is 10 inches deep in the inside, and contained a
few bones. The only engraving on it was a rude cross cut upon
one end of the lid. ^ 'i
Till lately, one of those remarkable monuments of antiquity,
called standing stones, stood at Cairney Mount ; but the hope of
finding a hidden treasure induced some rude hand to destroy it.
Another, however, is still to be seen at Braidwood. It is sup-
posed to have stood at the side of a Roman road passing from
Lanark, across the bridge of the Mouse beneath Cartland Crags,
through Lee valley, across Fiddler's burn at Chapel, and thence
by Braidwood into, the main street. A celt or stone hatchet ; el-
fin-bolts (flint and bone arrow-heads) ; elfin-pipes (pipes with re-
markably small bowls) ; numerous coins of the Edwards, and of
later dates, have been found in the neighbourhood. A copper
coin, of the reign of Commodus, and a silver medal of the Em-
press Faustina, was lately found at Belston. Gold coins of the
Roman period have also been found at Burnhead and Castlehill,
in the line of the Roman road.
Hallbar, a square tower, beautifully situated in a fine dell, is said
to have been built in the eleventh century. Early as this date is,
the appearance of the stair, passing up the walls, in the thickness
of the building. * together with some other circumstances, would
seem to countenance the supposition of its great antiquity. It is
52 feet in height, 24 feet square on the outside, and 14 feet square
in the interior. It contains a vault beneath, and three apartments,
* From the vent of the only fire-place in the tower passing up the north wall, the
stair is of course interrupted on that side, and to arrive at its continuation, it is neces-
sary to pass across the floor of one of the apartments. This inartificial method of
ascent would seem, to argue a remote date.
LANARK. P p
I
582 LANARKSHIRE.
the one above the other, the uppermost of these being likewise
closed with an arched roof. The beams for supporting the floors,
which constitute the ceilings of the two intermediate apartments,
instead of being inserted into the wall, rest upon projecting brackets
of stone. In a deed of retour, dated in 1 685, it is called the " Tower
and Fortalice of Braidwood." From this, it seems to have been
the residence attached to that ancient barony. The remains of a
tower of considerable antiquity is embraced in the buildings attach-
ed to the house of Waygateshaw. At Wallans, a small portion of
Milton- Lockhart estate, on the south side of the Clyde, but in
Carluke parish, and, at one time, evidently an islet, part of an old
wall still stands, said to be the ruin of a fortalice, where, on some
perilous occasion, Sir William Wallace found a refuge. It is some-
times called Castle Wallans and Temple-hall. At the south of
the parish there had been a chapel of St Oswald, where some se-
pulchral remains have been lately dug up. The other chapel,
which Chalmers places in the north-east of our parish, belongs to
Cambusnethan.
Ha'hill (Haugh-hill), a mound near Mauldslie castle, supposed
to be the accumulated earth and ashes of the ancient burial-place,
is an object of some curiosity. It is now covered with large trees,
a flat spot on the top remaining clear, where the two last Earls of
Hyndford were buried. It may be about 60 or 70 feet in height,
and covers several acres of ground.
Modern Buildings. — The only edifices in the parish which have
any pretence to architectural beauty are three in number.
Mauldslie Castle, built in 1793 by Thomas, Earl of Hyndford,
from a design of Adam, is a turreted structure of great elegance,
situated in an extensive and richly-wooded park, through which
the Clyde flows for upwards of a mile.
Milton-Lockhart, a new house, in the manorial style, has re-
cently been built by Mr Lockhart from a design furnished by Mr
Burn. The details are taken from ancient Scottish buildings, and
it is generally considered one of the best works of that distinguish-
ed architect. Its situation, on a peninsula which projects into the
valley of the Clyde, with deep glens and wooded hills in the back-
ground, is singularly beautiful. Mr Lockhart has also built a
bridge of three arches over the Clyde, on the model of the old
bridge of Bothwell.
Braidwood House, the seat of Nathaniel Stevenson, Esq. oc-
CARLUKE. 583
cupies a commanding situation on the high ground which over-
hangs the vale of Clyde, and is a commodious and handsome struc-
ture.
Parochial Registers. — The parish registers are preserved in five
volumes, two of which (the oldest) are much tattered, the others
in good preservation. The first entry of session proceedings bears
date 6th August 1645. The minutes are regularly kept from
that time till March 1646, whence there is an omission till 1650.
Another omission occurs extending from 1662 to 1694. From
the latter year until 1813, an exact account of session matters has
been preserved. From 1813, however, no regular entry of mi-
nutes had been made till 1832. A list of births, &c. has been
kept from 1735 to the present time, but it is, of course, very li-
mited.*
Ecclesiastical History. — As stated in a former part of this account,
the church of Carluke, with its teinds, and all its rights and per-
tinents, was granted by Robert I. to the monks of Kelso. They,
accordingly, continued to enjoy its revenues, performing the duties
of the parish, through means of a curate, until the year 1586.-ft
At that period the Earl of Bothwell, commendator of the abbacy
of Kelso, granted to Sir James Maxwell of Calderwood, a lease
of the teinds of Carluke, for a lifetime, and nineteen years after-
wards, at a rent of 110 merks yearly. In 1617, this lease was ex-
tended to two additional lifetimes and two nineteens. In 1607,
about twenty years after the grant to Sir James Maxwell, the ab-
bacy of Kelso being erected into a temporal lordship in favour of
Robert, Lord Roxburgh, the teinds of Carluke passed into the
possession of that nobleman, reserving, however, the rights of the
Calderwood family during the continuance of their tack. In 1637,
Maxwell of Calderwood sold, to the several heritors, the right to
their respective teinds during the remainder of his long lease. The
landholders of the parish having, accordingly, for nearly two cen-
turies, been required to pay only that portion of their teinds which
* From an entry in one of the session books, Mr John Scott, when translated to
Glasgow, appears to have carried off with him a volume of parish records, of a date
between 1662 and 1694 Mr Scott's heirs would be doing no more than an act of
justice, were they to examine his papers, and return the book (if it is still extant)
to the proper owners. An entry in the. session-book, bearing date 27th February
1656, refers to an act of session, recorded in the books of date " Maii 1636." This
is also lost.
t James Cunningham of Glencairn appears to have obtained a grant of Carluke
teinds, prior even to that date. In his account of this matter, Chalmers does not dis-
play his supposed accuracy.
584 LANARKSHIRE.
was allocated for the minister's stipend, the original lay impropria-
tor had been altogether lost sight of. About 1822, however, dur-
ing the prosecution of a process for augmentation of stipend, an
inquiry into the matter was instituted ; it was then found that the
heritors had been just upon the eve of becoming absolute proprie-
tors of their own teinds ; for not only had the Calderwood lease
expired, but nearly forty years in addition, when, of course, all
rights of the actual impropriator would have been prescribed. The
Roxburgh family, having their attention thus called to the sub-
ject, of course took immediate steps to confirm their almost obsolete
rights.
When the abbacy of Kelso was conferred upon Lord Roxburgh
in 1607, the patronage (not the teinds, as Chalmers supposes,) of
Carluke, was reserved to the Crown. About the middle of the
seventeenth century, Lockhart, Laird of Lee, Cromwell's Lieu-
tenant and nephew-in-law, obtained from Charles I. a gift of the
patronage of Lanark and Carluke. In 1751, the patronage of
Lanark was, by a decision of the law courts, re-assurned by the
Crown, on the ground that the grant had been made whilst the
King was under coercion, and was, consequently, null and void.
The Lee family have continued to present to the living of Car-
luke, under protest by the Crown officers.
The following is a list of the ministers of Carluke subsequent
to the Reformation, as far as any records of them remain in the
parish. The dates attached to their names are the earliest pe-
riods at which they are mentioned, either in the parish records or
in secular deeds, as wills, inventories, &c. — 1636. John Lindsay.
Baillie, in his letters, mentions that on his refusal to preach be-
fore the synod on the last Thursday of September 1837, Mr
Lindsay was ordered by the Bishop of Glasgow to do so. An in-
timation was whispered to him, whilst ascending the pulpit, to be-
ware of touching on the service-book in his sermon. He took the
hint, and thus escaped the vengeance which was inflicted by the
women c with neaves, staves, and peats, but no stones,' on Mr
Annan, who had preached the previous day and defended the li-
turgy. Being drowned in debt, he had to leave his parish, and
,seek refuge in Ireland.— (Stevenson's History of Church and
State.) — 1641. John Weir. A Mr Weir, (supposed to be the
Carluke minister, as no other of the name is mentioned at
that time,) is stated by Guthrie as sent to Ireland in the sum-
3
CAKLUKE. 585
mer of 1644, to procure adherents to the Solemn League and
Covenant. 1650. William Jack, was ejected in J662, and died
at Lanark in 1669. 1663. Mr Birnie was prelatic curate after
the expulsion of Mr Jack. The good folks gave him by no
means a cordial reception, as may be guessed from the following
notice* in Leigh ton's works: " 17th September 1670. The Lords
of the Council having appointed some ministers from other parts
to preach in such churches within the diocese of Glasgow, as do
most need their help ; I desire the Rev. Mr James Aird of Tor-
ry to bestow his pains especially in the kirk of Carluke, for bring-
ing the people to frequent the public ordinances, removing their
prejudices, and cooling their passions." A robbery of the curate of
Carluke is mentioned at a meeting of Covenanters held at Doug-
las in 1689. — (Faithful Contendings, page 368.) — 1672. Peter
Kid* and Alexander Livingston were indulged ministers, crammed,
as was usual, into one parish. — 1689. John Oliphant died mi-
nister of Carstairs in 1698. — 1694. John Scott, a preacher so
famous in his day, as to empty the neighbouring churches. He
died minister of the Outer High Church, Glasgow. — 1713. James
Dick. — 1732. Andrew Orr was settled after violent opposition,
but proved a most useful pastor. — 1763. James Scott, D. D.
—1813. James Walker.— 1819. John Wylie.
III. — POPULATION.
ID 1755, the population of Carluke amounted to 1459
1791, - - - 1730
1801, - 'V 1756
1811, . f; , 2311
* On Mr Kid's tombstone in Carluke church-yard was the following epitaph,
now entirely obliterated :
A faithful, holy pastor here lies hid,
One of a thousand, Mr Peter Kid,
Firm as a stone, but of a heart contrite,
A wrestling, praying, weeping Israelite.
A powerful preacher, far from ostentation ;
A son of thunder, and of consolation.
His face, his speech, and humble walk might tell
That he was in the mount and Peniel.
He was in Patmos, and did far surpass,
In fixed steadfastness, the rocky Bass.
His love to Christ made his life to be spent
In feeding flocks and kids beside his tent.
His frail flesh could not equal paces keep
With his most willing sp'rit, but fell asleep.
His soul's in heaven, where it was much before,
His flesh rests here in hopes of future glore.
Passenger ! ere thou go, sigh, weep and pray,
Help, Lord, because the godly do decay.
586 LANARKSHIRE.
In 1821, the population amounted to * 2925
1831, - - £3t 3288
1838, - - 3879
There is no accurate account of the state of the population
previous to 1755 ; but it would seem, for at least one hundred years
before, to have been as numerous as it was at that date, if not
considerably more so. The increase between 1801 and 1821, is
to be imputed, principally, to the opening up of the resources of
the parish, by improved agriculture, and the formation of highways
and parish roads, as well as to the extreme cheapness of fuel and
provisions, which induced many families, employed in weaving, to
take up their residence in the parish. The rapid growth of pur
population since 1831 has been produced, almost exclusively, by
the influx of masons, miners, and other labourers, which the recent-
ly established works of the Shotts Iron Company have occasioned.
Character of the People. — The population being at present, as
it were, in the very state of transition, presents an interesting sub-
ject of observation to those accustomed to study the formation or
change of general character, but, at the same time, precludes any-
thing like a decided statement upon the subject. The native in-
habitants till recently possessed, and, to a great degree, do still
retain, much of that intelligence, and sterling, though unpolished
integrity, which are supposed to constitute a main feature in the
unsophisticated Scottish character. * Mingled, however, with
this patriarchal steadiness of principle, is a considerable portion .
of that character's other ingredient, — a certain knowing shrewd-
ness, which, whilst it would scorn an actual breach of honesty or
morality, is apt, sometimes, to sail so very near the wind, as ap-
parently to place strict honour in some danger.
The recent improvements in the parish, and extensive intro-
duction of strangers, whilst they are obviously producing a higher
polish, and greater activity of mind, are as obviously bringing
along with them much of the profligacy and laxness of principle
so frequently found in more advanced society.
Ancient customs and superstitions have, as might be expected,
rapidly disappeared. There may still, however, be seen hanging
in some byres, a phial of Lee-penny water, to keep the cows from
parting calf, and to preserve the milk from changing. To obtain
the former of these objects, the barbarous practice of burying a
* Their own sober and sedate morality is a subject of some pride to those who are
parish-born. All the violations of public peace and propriety, which are now too
common with us, are sure to be charged by a native, against " thae new incomers."
CARLUKE. 587
live calf beneath the step of the byre door, was actually put into
execution, within a few years, by the servants of a respectable
proprietor in the neighbourhood. The customs formerly observed
at weddings* and burials, •(• have, during the present generation,
become almost wholly extinct.
The habits of the people are now, in the highest degree, cleanly
and tidy. Indeed, the houses of no village in Scotland can ex-
hibit a more comfortable, and, at the same time, substantial ap-
pearance than do those of Carluke.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. —
The parish is fully six miles by four when squared, which gives a surface of imperial
acres of ' - - 15,360
Of which in woods and plantations, 600
orchards, • • - 110
roads, - - 80
water courses, exclusive of Clyde, 21
undivided common, 86
sites of houses, - 10
wasteland, - - -- = 400
1,307
14,053
There is the greatest possible difference in the value of the
land. In the highest parts, in some places, it may not be worth
* Of wedding amusements, that of " creeling the young guidman," used to be
one of the most favoured. On the day following the marriage, the friends of the
young couple being assembled, a creel was bound with cords to the back of the bride-
groom, who immediately set off at full speed, followed by those assembled, all striv-
ing to overwhelm him by pitching stones into the creel. The sport continued until
the bridegroom had freed himself by speed of foot, or the bride had succeeded in
cutting the cords with a pair of scissors. The joke was, to insert the ' girdle clips'
amongst the cords.
f The following order was, not very long ago, invariably observed at the funeral
of all persons, who aimed, in any degree, at respectability of station. In " bidding
to the burial," no hour was mentioned, as ten o'clock in the morning was understood
to be the time of assembling, and two or three o'clock in the afternoon, that of" lift-
ing." The intervening time was occupied in treating with ' services,' the various
individuals as they arrived ; these « services' being interspersed with numerous
lengthened prayers and graces. The mingled worship and entertainment terminated,
and the people proceeded to the church-yard, only after a scout, stationed on some
rising ground in the neighbourhood gave intimation that no additional mourner was
seen approaching the place of meeting. The following was the regular succession
of the " services."
1st Service, bread and cheese, with ale or porter.
2d do. Glass of rum, with " burial bread."
3d do. Pipes ready filled with tobacco, handed round in a riddle. To prepare
these pipes, was one of the duties of the women who sat at the late-wake.
4th do. Glass of Port wine with cake.
5th do. Glass of sherry with cake.
6th do. Glass of whisky.
7th do. Glass of wine (kind not specified) with cake.
8th do. Thanks returned for the whole.
After which, the services recommenced as soon as a new individual made his ap-
pearance .
588 LANARKSHIRE.
more than 5s. per acre, while in the lower and more favoured por-
tion it is from L. 3 to L. 4, — the average of the whole being about
17s.
The universal dictum, that *' the recent improvements in
agriculture have been adopted in this parish," is as applicable
to Carluke as it is to most other districts. It must, at the
same time, be observed, that an opinion is becoming prevalent
with the more intelligent of our farmers, that several of these im-
provements are, at least with us, no improvements at all. The
subsoil of the parish consisting of a stiff blue clay, every drain
drawn, and every bushel of lime spread, tells visibly upon the ferti-
lity and earliness of the land, and a great deal has been already
accomplished by this method, as well as by hedging and the rear-
ing of strips of plantations. The attempt, however, to introduce
a regular rotation of crops, appears not to have been productive of
much good. Even in the lower and richer portion of the parish,
the soil, being heavy and wet, is much poached and injured by the
removal of green crops ; whilst in the upper district, again, the
severity of the climate renders crops of every description extremely
precarious. With the exception, therefore, of the rich haughs on
the Clyde, the surer and eventually the more profitable method
of tillage, is considered to be, to throw the greater portion of
the parish into permanent pasture, breaking it up every fifth or
sixth year for a crop of oats, and again laying it down in grass.
It has been found impossible to ascertain precisely the amounts of
the different sorts of annual produce ; but the following table, made
up from a comparison of the estimates furnished by several intelli-
gent and experienced individuals, the near coincidence of whose
calculations afforded a test of their correctness, is believed to be a
close approximation to the truth.
Grain of all kinds, - - - - . L. 12,645
Potatoes, - - - - . - 1,820
Turnips, - - ' - 600
Hay, . - - .-<•-• .' ; 2,988
Land in pasture, - - 8,747
Fruit, calculated on an average of the last 20 years, - - 1,300
Plantations.. - - - - -— 600
L. 28,700
Coal, - L. 7,800
Freestone, - - 300
Ironstone, - - 6,360
Lime, • - - 3,960
L. 18,420
Total, L. 47,l'2a
CAKLUKE. 589
fruit. — Of the fruit, for which Clydesdale is famed, a large pro-
portion, nearly one-third, it is said, of all raised between Hamilton
and Lanark, is produced by the parish of Carluke. The land
devoted to this purpose is computed to be 110 Scotch acres in ex-
tent ; the greater part of it being the steep banks of ravines, not
well adapted for any other produce. Orchard ground lets at from
L. 6 to L. 10 per acre, especially if properly stocked with goose^-
berries ; and in favourable years the returns procured have been
very great. The extreme precariousness of the crop, however, and
the expense of labour, as well as the reduction of price occasioned
by the introduction of Irish and foreign fruit, has of late years ren-
dered the cultivation of orchards by no means a favourite object of
industry. The vacillation of prices may be judged of from the list
which follows :
Price of fruit in
1822.
1838.
Gillfoot, . L
270
L. 18
Orchard,
180
12
Milton,
463
45
Brownlee, Harvie,
500
142
Do. Stuart,
740
130
Mauldslie,
500
38
Burnetholm,
50 ||
5
Garrion, .
130 "
20
Hallcraig, .
35
6
Waygateshaw,
125
21
Gills,
50
7
part of this is out of the parish.
Total, L. 3043 L. 444
The largest fruit-tree in Clydesdale grows in our parish on tne
estate of Samuel Steel, Esq. of Waygateshaw. A respectable
fruit-merchant mentions that, about thirty years ago, he gathered
from it sixty sleeks of pears at 50 Ibs. per sleek, the whole pro-
duce being thus 3000 Ibs. Those who have seen its stately and
spreading limbs will readily give credit to our statement.
The largest quantity of fruit procured in recent times from
one tree was obtained in 1822 from a Wheeler's Russet, or Lady
Lemon apple-tree, in Mauldslie haugh, the property of A. Nisbet,
Esq. The produce was estimated at 35 sleeks, but, when mea-
sured, amounted to no less than 44 sleeks..
The fruit-tree reputed the oldest in Clydesdale also belongs to
our parish, being a Longueville pear tree, in the park of Captain
Lockhart of Milton-Lockhart. Tradition stated it to be 300
years old.
Quarries and Mines. — Coal has evidently been wrought in this
590 LANARKSHIRE.
parish at a remote date ; and it is equally evident, from the state
of the mosses, that peat (which except in the moorland districts is
now little used) has been the principal fuel. In the session records
of 1650, we find that, " Claud Hamilton of Garein desired liberty
to sett the water off the Coalheugh upon the Sabbath morning,
qch was granted, because it was ane work of necessity." During the
operations at the Castlehill Iron-works, an old working of the most
primitive order was come upon. This was a pit, of no great depth, to
the first coal, in the form of a winding stair, by which this coal, it
is supposed, was conveyed to the surface in baskets, the remains
of which were found in the pit. Besides the coal raised from four
of the Castlehill seams for the iron-works, there are at. present five
coal works in operation for general consumption, namely, one at
Law of the main seam, two at Carluke, and one at Orchard of the
sixth seam, and one at Catcraig of the cannel-coal. The common
mode of working the coal is what is called " stoop and room," about
a fourth of the coal remaining as pillars for support of the roof.
The only exception to that method in the workings above-mention-
ed is in the cannel-coal, which is done on a modification of the " long
wall" principle, called " room and ranee," the whole coal being
taken out. The coal is brought to the surface by horse or steam-
power, which last also generally works the water pumps. Coal at
present is from 3s. 4d. to 3s. 8d. a-ton at the pits. Cannel-coal
10s. per ton.
There are a great number of stone quarries throughout the pa-
rish, generally opened for the use of the proprietors ; the tenants
and feuars having the privilege of them. Only one sale quarry
is worked, or rather two, on the lands of Nellfield. They are all
wrought by tirring or baring the surface of the rock. Good
building freestone is furnished at 3d. per foot at the quarries.
For the raising of lime a number of works are in operation.
The main iime for the most part is wrought. When the rock is
near the surface, it is wrought " open cast," by which method the
whole lime is taken out. When mined, about a fourth of the rock
must be left. It is raised either on an inclined plane by horse
power, or lifted in hutches by steam power. The price is 4s. per
ton ; — when burned, 8s.
Ironstone is got in the tirring of the limestone, but no working
is carried on exclusively for the iron at present, except by the Shotts
Iron Company, and the Coltness Iron Company, both lately com-
CARLUKE. 591
menced. The price of the ironstone got as above-mentioned is
about 6s. a ton. The Coltness Iron Company have only one iron-
stone working in the parish at present in operation.
Apart from what is above noticed, coal, ironstone, limestone, and
freestone are extensively raised, for the purposes of building and
iron-smelting at Castlehill iron wofks. There are eight coal-pits,
and nearly as many mines for ironstone and limestone. We have
no direct means of ascertaining the quantity of each produced, but
when we know that two furnaces are already in full operation, and
take the daily consumption in each of coal at 28 tons, ironstone at
25 tons, limestoqe at 9 tons, and also estimate the coal used in
charring and calcining, and by the workmen for domestic uses, a
near approximation may be made. *
Wages. — Labour meets both with a ready and a high market in
Carluke. The usual wages for day-labourers vary from 1 Is. to 14s.
a- week: and those who work by the day receive 2s. 6d. during sum-
mer, and 2s. during winter. The inhabitants of the parish are
famed as hedgers and ditchers, so much so, indeed, as to be en-
gaged from various parts of Scotland, at a considerable distance.
A large proportion of our hand-loom weavers used formerly to be
employed, but the small emolument now made in that branch of
industry, together with the high wages given for day labour, have
reduced the number to less than one-half. There are still, how-
ever, 225 individuals so employed ; those engaged in zebra or
figured work make 9s. a-week ; and those at plain work only
4s. 6d. ; the average on the whole being 6s. 9d.
The wages thus earned at weaving are, L. 75, 18s. 9d. per
week, or L. 3948, 1 5s. per year ; 200 females are at present engag-
ed in sewing Ayrshire work, some of whom make as much as 8s.
per week, but the average is only 3s. 6d. The amount earned is
therefore L. 35 per week, or L. 1820 per year. Wages paid for
labour by the iron company are L. 377 per week, or L. 19,604 per
year.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Villages. — The village of Carluke has, within a few years, swelled
into the size, and assumed the appearance of a thriving town, j- — its
* The mining operations are in a sense just begun. In a short time, thrice the
quantity will be required.
f To those who are acquainted with the town find parish of Carluke, the former
containing numerous streets of comfortable, well-built houses, — the latter fully divid-
ed, and in a high state of cultivation, the following circumstance may convey an idea
of the very rapid stride made by this neighbourhood. There is still alive one indt-
592 LANARKSHIRE.
present population amounting to 2 125. It was erected, in 1662, into
a burgh of barony, under the name of Kirkstyle, with the privilege
of holding a weekly market, and a fair twice in the year. This pri-
vilege, So far as the weekly market is concerned, has not been act-
ed upon ; but the town is well 'supplied with shops for the sale of
bread,* butcher-meat, and every other article of provision. The
recent act for the establishment of municipal government in Scotch
towns, having been taken advantage of by Carluke, a tax of six-
pence a pound on house rent is levied for the purpose of support-
ing a few constables, and of cleaning and lighting the streets.
There are three small villages in the parish, viz. Braidwood,
Kilcadzow, and Yieldshields ; and if the different lines of houses,
lately erected by the Shotts Iron Company for the accommodation of
their work-people, and which have been prudently placed at a con-
siderable distance from each other, were taken into account, they
would, together constitute another populous village. They have
already erected 94 excellent dwellings.
Means of Communication. — The parish is intersected with nu-
merous parish roads, amounting, in all, to upwards of 35 miles, on
which about L. 300 are annually expended. Five miles of the Stir-
ling and Carlisle highway, and three miles of the one between
Glasgow and Carnwath, lie within our limits.
There are no stage-coaches running on our roads, the mail be-
ing brought from Airdrie and Lanark by a gig ; but there is a re-
port that the Glasgow and Wishaw Railway is to be prolonged to
the neighbourhood of Carluke town.
Ecclesiastical State. — The church, a substantial building, erect-
ed in 1799, at an expense of L. 1000, is situated almost in the
centre of the parish, and is consequently as conveniently placed as
it could be ; none of the inhabitants being more than four miles dis-
vidual (if not more) who remembers since the village of Carluke contained only four
cottages, with the kirk and manse. At that period, there were neither made roads,
nor even enclosures (with|the exception, perhaps, of a few on the banks of the Clyde,)
•within the parish. Wheeled carriages had never been seen, the only means of con-
veyance being sledges or horseback. The inhabitants of the upper part of the parish
had to find their way to kirk and mill, along the side of Carluke burn, " but mony's
the time," quoth our informant, " that we laired and stuck fast and firm." At a still
earlier date, there is an entry in the heritors' books, directing eight horses to be sup-
plied for the conveyance of 400 slates, with which to repair the roof of the church.
Compare this with the loads of metal now conveyed by one horse along the Iron Com-
pany's, railways.
* Forty years ago> the only " baker's bread" used in the parish, was Is. 6d. worth,
brought weekly from Glasgow or Lanark. Of this quantity, sixpence worth went
to the manse, whilst the remaining shilling's worth was intended for " lying in wives"
and other sick people.
CARLUKE. 593
tant, and very few so far. It contains 1000 sittings, of which 216
are free. This number might be sufficient for the population at
the time the church was built, but is n.ow altogether inadequate.
The want has been, in one view, supplied by the erection, in 1833,
of an elegant Relief chapel, calculated to contain 770 sittings, of
which 400 are let. There is, besides, in the village, a meeting-
house belonging to the Associate Synod, built in 1797, capable of
containing 470 hearers, and having 330 sittings let
The Established Church is generally well attended. Its joined
members are 900 ; the average number communicating annually,
600. In the Old Light meeting-house the joined members are 320 ;
number belonging to the parish communicating, 240. In the Re-
lief chapel, the average number of communicants is 500.* The
church collections for charity are L. 28 a-year ; for extra parochial
objects about L. 15 a-year. In the Old Light, the collections for
congregational purposes are L. 60 a-year; for charitable purposes,
L. 7, I Os. ; for extra-congregational objects, L. 30. In the Relief,
the collections for congregational purposes are L. 68 yearly ; for
extra-congregational purposes, L. 12.
The manse was built in 1797, at an outlay of L. 356. It has,
during the current year, been enlarged and repaired. The ex-
penditure for this purpose has been about L. 170. The glebe
contains 1 1 acres of land, worth about L. 3 an acre.
In 1637, when the first allocation appears to have taken place,
the stipend of Carluke was 400 merks of money, and 4 chalders of
meal. In 1650, it seems to have been modified and Augmented
to 3 chalders of victual, two-thirds meal, and one-third barley, with
L. 51, 10s. Id. Sterling in money. In 1774, an augmentation
was granted of L. 31, 9s. 8d. In 1803, a further augmentation
was obtained of 2 chalders of victual, and L. 1, 13s. 4d. in money,
making altogether 5 chalders of victual, with L. 84, ISs.'ld. of
money. In 1819, the stipend was raised to 16 chalders of vic-
tual, and L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements, at which it still
continues.
The minister x)f the Associate Synod meeting-house receives
L. 122 yearly, with a good house and garden. His stipend is
raised from seat-rents, collections, and the rent of property. The
salary of the Relief minister is L. 110, procured from seat-rents
and collections.
* This number of 500 communicants, we must observe, is given solely on the au-
thority of those connected with the chapel.
594 LANARKSHIRE.
The following is believed to be a correct list of the parishioners
belonging to the various religious sects : Establishment, 2306 ;
Relief, 874; Associate Synod, 369; United Secession, 162; Ro-
man Catholic, 58; Unitarians, 41; Methodists, 11 ; Reformed Pres-
bytery, 11; Baptists, 10; Episcopalians, 2.
Education. — Besides the parochial school , there are in the pa-
rish six others, all unendowed. The branches of instruction are
those usually taught at country schools, reading, writing, geogra-
phy, and arithmetic, with now and then a little Latin. The peo-
ple have been so far alive to the benefits of education, that there
is no native parishioner above fifteen years of age unable to read
and write. The income of the parish schoolmaster arises from
L. 34 of salary : his fees as session-clerk, and the school fees, which,
with 110 scholars at an average yearly charge of 10s. each,
amount to L. 55 per annum. Both the school and schoolmaster's
house are upon a scale altogether inadequate to the parish,- — the
school so much so, indeed, as seriously to affect the health of the
numerous children attending it.
The Countess of Forfar, in 1737, bequeathed L. 500 to forma
bursary for the education in Glasgow grammar-school and college
of a boy from each of the parishes of Carluke, Lanark, Laming-
ton, Shotts, and Bothwell.
Literature. — A parochial library was established in the town of
Carluke in 1827, and contains at present 600 volumes. The en-
trance money is 5s. and yearly contribution 2s. There is a libra-
ry of 400 volumes at Yieldshields, and one at Braidwood of 200
volumes. A Useful Knowledge Society, in which are delivered
weekly lectures on subjects of general science, was instituted in
1836, and, at present, numbers 44 members, some of whom dis-
play much interest in scientific discussions. Connected with this
institution, is a small museum of fossils, antiquarian remains, &c.
with a limited collection of books on suitable subjects.
Friendly Societies. — A parish Friendly Society was instituted in
1792, connected with which are 35 members, each paying 2s. 6d.
of entry money, and a penny a week of subscription. Its present
funds are L. 50. The allowance granted to the sick is 3s. 6d. a
week, continued during twelve months. Another Friendly Society,
upon the same principles, has been recently commenced by the
workmen connected with the Castlehill iron-works.
Savings Bank. — A savings bank has been in operation in this pa-
CARLUKE. 595
rish since 1815, the benefits accruing from which have of late
been both felt and prized by the inhabitants. The following state-
ment, drawn up on the llth of November 1838, will fully explain
its flourishing condition.
Amount of deposits at last annual balance in November 1837, L. 889 0 4
Increase during last year from interest and new deposits, 418 2 5
Present amount of deposits, L. 1.307 2 9
Number of depositors at llth November 1837, 94
Additional during last year, - 49
Withdrawn, - . - - 21
28
Present number of depositors, 122
Accounts under L. 5, - 29
from L. 5 to L. 10, - 37
L. 10 to L. 20, - - 36
L. 20 to L. 30, - - 20
122
Poor. — The number upon the poor's roll may be stated at
45, the average yearly allowance to each of whom is L. 4. The
sources whence are drawn the funds to meet this demand are the
following :
Interest of 2000 merks bequeathed by Sir Daniel Carmichael of
Mauldslie, - - - - L. 4 9 0
Hearse dues, - -. * '.- 3 0 0
Half of church collections, ;;•>«' - 14 0 0
Average yearly assessment, - - - - 222 0 0
L. 243 9 0
The kirk-session has the management of the following sums :
One-half of the church collections, - L. 14 1 0
Interest of L. 120, being the remainder of small legacies by Lady
Lockhart of Lee and Dr Scott, 500
L. 19 1 0
The feu-duties arising from the lands of Spitalshiels, (originally
belonging to the Hospital of St Leonard's at Lanark,) the superi-
ority of which was acquired in the reign of Charles II. by Lockhart
of Lee, are, by the charter, directed to be paid over to the poor
of the parishes of Carluke and Lanark. The enforcement of this
claim has been for some time neglected. The amount is 60 merks
annually.
In 1814, John Reid of Nellfield bequeathed to the parish of Car-
luke the sum of L. 2000. The interest of this legacy, (L. 80,) Mr
Reid's will directs to be expended in small annuities to twelve
persons, six males, and six females, of respectable character, and
of a rank of life superior to that of mere paupers. It is a
596 LANARKSHIRE.
subject of proud, but legitimate boasting with our native popu-
lation, that it is very rarely any of the " parish-born" apply for
relief from the parochial funds. During the time of the cholera, out
of a poor's list of between thirty and forty persons, only four were
descendants of parishioners. Of these four persons, one would
seem to have a heritable right, or, at least, a strong inbred pre-
disposition to the handling of parish money. For, in looking over
the records, it appears that for nearly 200 years, there had always
been, with but slight exceptions, at least one of the family receiv-
ing parochial aid.
Fairs. — Two annual fairs are held at Carluke, the one on the
21st of May, the other on the 31st of October. Both are devot-
ed almost exclusively to the sale of milk cows, of which a large
number is frequently exposed.
Inns. — There are three inns in Carluke, and numerous ale-
houses, which afford every facility to the dissipation which is ra-
pidly spreading amongst us.
Agricultural Society — a Society, instituted in 1833, main-
ly for the purpose of improving the breed of cattle. The Socie-
ty's cattle show tak^s place on the last Wednesday of July. The
marked improvement of stock since the society commenced is the
best argument for its utility.
March 1839.
PARISH OF CARMUNNOCK.
PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR,
REV. JOHN HENDERSON, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — THE name of the parish now called Carmunnock ap-
pears in old charters in the various forms, Cormannock, Carmanoch,
Carmannock, and Curmanock. On the oldest of the communion
cups, (date 1707,) it is found in the form Carmannock, and the
same form occurs on the tokens still in use of date 1777. The
most probable account given of the origin of the name is that
which derives it from the Gaelic CVzer-mannock, signifying the
Monk's fort.
Extent, Boundaries, fyc. — The original parish is about 4 miles
long from east to west, and averages 2-J miles in breadth from north
to south. There are two annexations, however, quoad sacra tantum,
the one from the parish of Kilbride, and the other from the pa-
rish of Cathcart, inclusive of which it is fully 6 miles in length,
and 4 in breadth. These annexations were by a regular decreet
of the competent court united to the parish of Carmunnock in
1725. The parish originally belonged to the presbytery of Ha-
milton, but was by authority of the General Assembly, and with
consent of the then incumbent, united to the presbytery of
Glasgow in 1597. The village of Carmunnock, which is situated
about the centre of the parish, is fully 5 miles to the south of the
city of Glasgow ; and the parish is bounded on the east, by the
parish of Cambuslang ; on the south, by Kilbride ; on the west, by
Eaglesham and Mearns ; and on the north, by Cathcart.
Topographical Appearances. — The parish, which is generally
elevated, is beautifully diversified with hill and dale. f From the
higher eminences, particularly from the top of Cathkin-hill, si-
tuated towards its eastern boundary, and about 500 feet above the
level of the sea, it commands one of the richest and most exten-
sive prospects in the west of Scotland. In a clear day, the eye
takes in part of sixteen counties. The immediate objects of at-
LANARK.
508 LANARKSHIRE.
traction are, the city of Glasgow with its extensive suburbs and
surrounding villages ; the towns of Rutherglen and Paisley, and
the whole of the fertile vale of Clyde from Hamilton to Dumbar-
ton, with numerous views of the windings of the river, now crowded
with trading vessels and steam-boats conveying goods and pas-
sengers in every direction. The distant objects chiefly worthy of
notice are, to the east, Arthur's seat, and the Pentland hills, in
the immediate vicinity of Edinburgh, to the north Benlomond,
Benledi, and the neighbouring heights, and to the west, the hills
of Arran and different parts of Argyleshire.
Climate, fyc. — The atmosphere is remarkably pure and heal thy,
and though, from the elevation of the parish, rather cold than
otherwise, has been much ameliorated in this respect within the
last forty years, by the increased quantity of plantation, and gene-
ral improvements that have been made in agriculture. The pa-
rish, however, is still very subject to early and late frosts. The
prevailing winds are the south-west, the west, and north-east.
The wind from the south-west is often very boisterous, and ge-
nerally accompanied with rain. I cannot state any diseases as pe-
culiar to the climate, and few places afford so many instances of
longevity. It is seldom that any epidemic spreads in the district,
and it is worthy of remark, that though during the late visitation
of Asiatic cholera, (1832), there were cases of that frightful ma-
lady in all the surrounding parishes, not one took place in the pa-
rish of Carmunnock.
Hydrography. — The parish everywhere abounds with perennial
springs of excellent water, and there are no fewer than five public
wells in the village, which even in seasons of the greatest drought
seldom fail to afford an abundant supply. There are a few springs
slightly impregnated with carbonate of iron, but there is none per-
ceptibly chalybeate to the taste. It is mentioned in the last Sta-
tistical Account (published in 1796,) that the parish had been
surveyed some time previously, with the view of ascertaining
whether a quantity of water sufficient for the supply of the city of
Glasgow could be procured. This speaks at once for the quantity
and quality of the springs ; but it was found upon the survey, that,
if all the springs on the brow of the hill were collected, they could
only afford 70 Scots pints in the minute, a supply even then two-
thirds less than what was required. There are no natural lakes
of any extent in the parish, and the only stream running through
any part of it is a small rivulet called the Kittoch. The White
CARMUNNOCK. . 599
Cart, however, runs along its western boundary, the banks of which
being high and craggy, and thickly wooded, are in some parts very
picturesque and beautiful. On this stream is situated the village
of Busby, containing a population of nearly 1000, mainly sup-
ported by a printfield and cotton-mill. A small portion of this
village, within which is the printfield, belongs quoad civilia to the
parish of Kilbride, but is annexed quoad sacra to Carmunnock.
The other, and by far the greater portion of it, within which is
the cotton-mill, is in the parish of Mearns. '
Geology and Mineralogy. — The parish presents but few remar-
kable geological features. Whin or trap-rocks prevail through-
out the district. In the estate of Cathkin, which is nearly one-
third of the parish, almost all below the surface is solid whin, and
indeed, the same may be stated of a considerable portion of the
remainder. On the same estate there are two fine specimens of
basalts. Throughout the parish there are several quarries of
decomposed trap much used for farm and parish roads. There is
also a quarry of freestone of considerable extent, the stone roughly
granulated, but of a very firm texture. A few seams of coal are
to be found in the parish, but only one of them has hitherto been
wrought, and that very partially. The coal was of an inferior
quality, and chiefly used for the burning of lime in the neighbour-
ing parish of Kilbride. My own impression is, however, that
good coal, to a small extent, exists in the parish, forming, in a few
instances, the cropping out of some of the seams that constitute
the great coal basin of the Clyde. Limestone and ironstone are
also to be met with, both of them of the first quality. Though
the former has not yet been wrought, I am informed that a bed of
it was nearly contracted for last year ; and a bed of the latter was,
about the same time, wrought to a small extent for trial, and may
soon attract the notice of persons interested. They are both in
the estate of Castlemilk. The general direction of the strata of
the parish is from south-west to north-east, and they have almost
uniformly their dip or declinature towards the Clyde.
Soil. — There is no great variety of soil. Generally speaking,
it may be said to consist either of a free earthy mould, averaging
seven inches in depth, on the surface of the whin rock mentioned
as so common, or of a wet clayey soil on a retentive bottom, the
latter yielding excellent crops when well drained and generously
manured, but occasionally so mixed with sand as to render it na-
turally poor and unproductive.
600 LANARKSHIRE.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
" During the reign of William the Lion, the territory or ma-
nor of Cormanock was possessed by Henry, the son of Anselm, who
took from it the local appellation of Henry of Cormanock. He
appears as a witness to a number of charters of William the Lion,
in which he is called, 4 Henricus de Cormanoc.' Before the year
1189, this Henry, for the salvation of the souls of his father and
mother, granted, in perpetual alms, to the abbot and monks of
Paisley, the Church of Cormanock, with half a carucate of land
in the same manor, and common of pasture, and all other ease-
ments ; and he directed, that when he and his wife, Johanna, died,
their bodies, with a third part of their goods, should go to the same
monastery. The church, &c. continued to belong to the monks
of Paisley till the Reformation." — " In 1587, the patronage and
tithes of the church of Carmanock, which were then held bv Lord
Claud Hamilton, as Commendator of Paisley, for life, were granted
to him and his heirs, together with the other property of the monks
of Paisley ; and upon his death in 1621, they were inherited by
his grandson, James Earl of Abercorn. In 1653, the patronage
and tithes of Carmunnock passed, with the Lordship of Paisley, from
the Earl of Abercorn, to Sir William Cochran of Cowden, who
was created Lord Cochran in 1647, and Earl of Dundonald in
1669. In the following century, the patronage of the church of
Carmunnock was acquired by Stuart of Castlemilk," (Chalmers
Caledonia.) The patronage still remains with the descendants
of the last mentioned family, the present proprieter of Castlemilk,
and patron of the parish, James Stirling Stirling, grand-nephew of
tlie late Lady Stuart, being a minor.
Land-owners. — There are in all sixteen heritors, but only two
of any considerable extent, viz. the above-mentioned James Stirling
Stirling of Castlemilk, whose property extends to more than the
half, and Humphry Ewing M'Lae, Esq. of Cathkin, who is in
possession of nearly one-third of the parish. With three excep-
tions, the remaining 14 are feuars, who at different times have pur-
chased a piece of ground from Castlemilk.
Parochial Registers. — Before the year 1640, a registration o
marriages and births began to be kept ; but several parts of the
register, from decay and other accidental causes, cannot now be
read. There is an entire register both of marriages and births from
1765, and the different parochial records are now kept with great
accuracy and neatness.
CARMUNNOCK. 601
Antiquities. — In the estate of Castlemilk, there are the remains
of a Roman military road, and also of a Roman camp. In the same
property, and also in the estate of Cathkin, several pieces of an-
cient armour, with camp utensils, have been dug up ; and many
tumuli have been met with, in which, when opened, urns formed
of clay and rudely carved were found. The urns, when exposed
to the air, went all to dust, except one, which was vitrified, and is
still to be seen. In one or two instances, they contained a quanti-
ty of human bones mixed with earth. The sepulchral cairns, most
of which are now destroyed, were in a straight line, and stood on
bases of from 6 to 12 falls. Some of them were 6 feet high,
and 6 falls on the top, and one of them, part of which is still
standing, might measure from 14 to 15 feet in height. When
deepening a ditch on the march between Cathkin and Castlemilk,
about seven or eight years ago, the bottom of a boat was dis-
covered, 10 feet long and 2 feet broad, all of black oak. There
are no marks of iron about it, but strong wooden nails.
The late proprietress of Castlemilk, Lady Anne Stuart, is sup-
posed to have been in her day the most direct descendant of the
royal line of that name, and in the House of Castlemilk, one of
the most beautiful residences in this part of the country, the un-
fortunate Mary Queen of Scots is said to have lodged the night
before the battle of Langside. An old thorn tree is pointed
out as near the spot where, on the following day, she witnessed the
discomfiture of her army; but perhaps a more likely situation is a
rock on the top of Cathkin-hill3 which still goes by the name of
the Queen's Seat.
I may add to these notices, that, a few years ago, on taking down
the old offices belonging to one of the Castlemilk farm-houses, a
number of silver coins were found, of the reigns of Elizabeth,
James I., and Charles I. and II. They were wrapped up in what
appeared to be an old stocking, and concealed in one of the walls.
There can be little doubt, from the history of Scotland in con-
nexion with the date of the coins, that they had been hid as a
precaution against plunder.
Recent Events. — In 1819-20, memorable for a foolish rising against
the government of the country, on the part of a number of delud-
ed persons, especially in the West of Scotland, the top of Cathkin
hill in this parish was selected as the place of rendezvous for a
general assault- upon Glasgow. The subjoined account of this ab-
surd enterprise is extracted from the Glasgow Herald of the 10th
602 LANARKSHIRE.
April 1820, — a newspaper which, in addition to its general respec-
tability and extensive circulation, has always been remarkably ac-
curate in its local intelligence. " Wednesday night last, (5th
April 1820,) was the period fixed for a simultaneous attack upon
the city by the Radicals. Cathkin Braes, about five miles south,
was the site chosen for their encampment. The Strathaven di-
vision, between 20 and 30, with such arms as they could seize or
collect, arrived there at the appointed time ; but, instead of the
many thousands expected to be encamped, they did not meet with
a single individual to welcome them ; and on that wet boisterous
and dreary night, were necessitated to seek refuge in the woods.
The Radicals, at last finding that they had been imposed upon by
a delegate who had summoned them to the meeting, next day, be-
tween one and two o'clock, left their lonely and comfortless abode,
threw away their arms and dispersed. Some of them went into
a house occupied by a labourer, in which there were none but
women at the time, and requested a few potatoes then boiling,
which they fell upon like as many hungry dogs. Nothing could
exceed their wretched and alarmed appearance.
" About a dozen of the Strathaven Radicals, who had been at
Cathkin Braes, were, on their return home, apprehended by the
armed tenantry of Strathaven parish, and carried prisoners to Ha-
milton, where they underwent an examination before the Sheriff.
Nearly a dozen of Radicals, armed with pikes and pistols, visited two
public-houses in New Cathcart, about twelve o'clock on Tuesday
night, on a search for arms, but they did not find any. There was
scarcely a village, however small, within twenty miles round, in
which the Radical address was not posted up, and in most of them
there were preparations made to obey the call expected from Glas-
gow."
I am happy to add to this Account, that though then, as now,
there were what are called " Radical opinions," in the village of
Carmunnock, yet I am not aware of preparations being here at
any period made for deeds of violence.
III. — POPULATION.
There has been a gradual increase in the population of the pa-
rish, as will be seen by the following statement.
Population in 1755, 471
1796, -.•-.•-. 570
1821, 637
1831, 692
The above is the population of the parish quoad civilia. By
CA11MUNNOCK. 603
adding the districts annexed quoad sacra, the present population
may be nearly 1000. It is deserving of notice, that, in taking up
the Government census in 1831, the proportion of males and fe-
males was exactly equal, there being of each sex 346.
Yearly average of births for the last seven years, . 22
deaths, . . 20
marriages, . . 14
Number of illegitimate births in the parish during the last three years, 4
Proprietors of Land. — There are six proprietors of land of the
yearly value of L. 50 and upwards.
Character of the People. — The people in general are decent in
their morals ; sober, honest, and industrious ; and there is no in-
stance of any individual from the parish having been tried for a
capital crime. In bearing this general testimony, it is not to be
expected that we are free from the injurious influence of public-
houses, the fruitful source of vice and misery throughout Scotland.
I may add, however, that in few parishes is there a more general
regard paid to divine ordinances, or a greater proportion of serious
and devout individuals. The beneficial effects of what is usually
called the " Cambuslang Work," 1742, no doubt partially extend-
ed to this and other neighbouring parishes, and it is a place that,
for nearly 150 years, has never wanted a Gospel ministry. The
people have been much distinguished also for warm affeotion and
respectful kindness towards their pastors. It is said that the prac-
tice of family worship was at one time kept up in every household.
Though the good habit is still prevalent, I am sorry I cannot give
the parish so enviable a distinction at the present day.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — The parish contains about 2810 acres Scotch.
Of these, 2400 are arable, and under a regular system of cultiva-
tion. 250 are under wood, almost all of which has been planted,
and about 106 are constantly in pasture. The remainder are oc-
cupied with roads, &c. During the time of the present proprie-
tor of Cathkin, there were in one square on the hills above 20 acres
of waste land ; besides 6 or 7 acres of moss in such a state as to
render it dangerous to pass over them. The whole of these have
now been brought in, and the acres that were previously moss are
now considered the best ground belonging to the farm in which they
are situated. They require less manure than any other part of
the farm, and are particularly adapted for carrots, turnips, and
potatoes. There is no undivided common in the parish.
Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is from
604 LANARKSHIRE.
L. 1, 10s. to L. 1, 15s. per acre Scotch, but some parts are let at
nearly L. 3. The gross rental' of the parish has been much more
than doubled within the last forty years, and may now be reckoned
at L. 4200.
Wages. — The wages of regular farm servants may be stated as
follows : Males, from L. 7 to L. 10 per half year, with bed, board,
and washing ; females, from L. 2 to L. 5, according to their fit-
ness for work. The rate of wages for day-labourers is 2s. per day
in summer, and in winter Is. 8d., without victuals.
Live-Stock. — The number of milch cows in the parish may
amount to 350. They are all of the Ayrshire breed, and the far-
mers generally rear a few young cattle yearly. The farm-horses
are of the Clydesdale breed, and are for the most part first rate
animals, and kept in excellent condition. Of these, there are from
two to six on each farm, according to its extent.
Husbandry. — In few places has there been a more rapid im-
provement in husbandry, and so well is the greater part of the
land cultivated, that, notwithstanding the elevation of the parish,
and some natural disadvantages of soil, we have excellent crops of
all sorts. Improvements are still progressing, particularly in the
way of draining, which is carried on in many of the farms to the
extent o£ from 1500 to 3000 falls annually. Furrow-draining is
most approved of, and tiles have been much used for the purpose
within the last few years. Each farm is divided into fields pro-
portionable to its size, and intersected with roads convenient for the
carting of manure, and the removal of the crops. The fences are
for the most part of thorn, but occasionally with a mixture of
beech. They have been much better attended to of late years,
and, along with the quantity of young thriving wood, and the na-
tural diversity of hill and dale, give a richness and beauty to the
general aspect of the parish to which, thirty years ago, it was a
stranger. The general rotation of crops is, 1. oats; 2. green-
crop, with a portion of the field in summer fallow ; 3. wheat ;
4. hay ; and then three years pasture. The cropping is so ma-
naged as to make the pasture always extend to fully one-third of
the farm, the produce of the dairy forming a great proportion of
the income of the farmer, without which it would be impossible
for him to make good his rent. Since green cropping became ge-
neral, many of the farmers make a point of having several of their
cows yielding milk during winter, in order to increase their sup-
ply of manure. Notwithstanding this, a considerable quantity of
CARMUNNOCK. 605
the manure used in the parish is brought annually from Glasgow,
at a very great expense. The average size of the farms is 115
acres Scotch.
Leases. — The general length of leases is nineteen years.
Farm-Houses. — Some of the farm-houses are very superior, and,
with few exceptions, they are all in good condition, having been
lately either wholly rebuilt, or put into complete repair.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Means of Communication, §-c. — The nearest market-town is
Rutherglen, which is about three miles and a half distant. There
are seven fairs in this town annually, and several of these are fre-
quented bj our farmers 'for the sale% and purchase of horses and
cows. The chief market resort, however, for the above purposes,
and the place also where the farm produce of all kinds is mostly
disposed of, is Glasgow. The village of Carmunnock containing
a population of 400 souls, is the only village in the parish quoad
civilia. The village of Busby, formerly alluded to as in part an-
nexed, quoad sacra, is distant from Carmunnock about one mile
and a quarter, and has recently been privileged with a penny-post
from Glasgow, which has proved a great convenience to the sur-
rounding district. In the village of Carmunnock, there are 3
grocers, two of whom are also publicans. Besides these, there are
2 other public-houses, 2 wrights, 1 tailor, 1 smith and farrier, 2
carriers, and about 1 5 day-labourers. The remaining population
of the village is chiefly composed of hand-loom weavers. In the
country part of the parish, (which is otherwise wholly agricultural,)
there are 1 wright, 1 smith and farrier, and 1 miller.
There is only one turnpike road within the whole parochial dis-
trict, extending to about three miles and a-half, and without any
public coach. The Glasgow and Muirkirk road, however, passes
along the eastern boundary of the parish, and is travelled by a
coach from Strathaven three times a week. The parish roads are,
generally speaking, in good order.
Ecclesiastical State. — The church is in the middle of the village,
and very conveniently situated for the parishioners. It was built
in 1767, and underwent considerable repairs last year. It is upon
the whole neat and comfortable, when compared with most country
parish churches of the date of its erection, and may accommodate
from 450 to 500. There is no Dissenting meeting-house in the
parish, and there are very few Dissenters, except in the village of
Carmunnock. These, too, are for the most part persons who, at a
606 LANARKSHIRE.
time of political excitement, and the agitation of the question about
the lawfulness of National Religious Establishments, have only re-
cently gone to the meeting-house of a Dissenting minister of vo-
luntary principles in the neighbourhood. The number of commu-
nicants belonging to the Established Church is from 240 to 250.
The church is well attended.*
Number of families in the parish attending the Established Church :-~-
In the parish quoad civilia, - 101
Do. quoad sacra. - 21
122
Number of families Dissenting or Seceding : —
In the parish quoad civilia, - 38
Do. quoad sacra, - 18
56
Stipend) Manse, fyc. — Carmunnock is one of the small livings
of the Church of Scotland. The stipend by a decreet of modifi-
cation, of date 28th June 1797, consists of 94 bolls, 1 peck, 2j
lippies of meal, 23 bolls, 2 firlots, 3 pecks, 1£ lippy of bear, and
in money L. 15, 6s. 4Jd. To the above, there is now added by
the Exchequer, for raising the stipend to an average of L. 150 per
annum, the sum of L. 39, 10s. lOd. The heritors have lately
built a very elegant and substantial manse, and the offices, which
stand in need of some slight repairs, are immediately to be attend-
ed to. The glebe is scarcely 5 acres in extent, but of an excel-
lent soil.
Education. — The only school in the parish is the parochial one,
where instruction is given in all the usual branches. The school-
master has the maximum salary, and the school-fees average L. 40
per annum. Till within these few years, the schoolmaster had
neither house nor garden, but received an annual sum in lieu of
them. The heritors, however, lately purchased a piece of ground
for him, and erected both an excellent school-house and dwelling-
* Succession of Ministers in Carmunnock — Mr Andrew Hamilton, vicar 1586 ; Mr
James Hamilton, reader and vicar 1586 ; Mr Archibald Glen, from Rutherglen, ad-
mitted 27th April 1603; Mr Robert Glen, 23d August 1614; Mr James Mowbrae,
27th November 1622, and removed by the Archbishop in 1633 ; Mr James Hutche-
son, from Houston, admitted 7th December 1633, and deposed 1639 ; Mr Matthew
18th January 1665; Mr Andrew Tait, admitted 22d March 1695; Mr John Kerr
ordained 3d May 1744, and died 24th April 1775; Mr Joseph Hodgson, ordained
30th May 1776, died 6th December 1785; Mr James French, ordained 21st Septem-
ber 1786, and translated to Kilbride 21st April 1791 ; Mr Adam Forman, ordained
26th January 1792, and translated to Kirkintilloch 6th June 1811 ; Mr (now Dr)
Angus Makellar, ordained 30th April 1812. and translated to Pencaitland 29th June
1814; Mr (now Dr) Patrick Clason, ordained llth May 1815, and translated to
Bucclcuch parish, Edinburgh, April 1824; Mr John Henderson, ordained 22d July
1824.
CARMUNNOCK. GOT
house, and he has now not only all the legal accommodations, but
the whole educational establishment does much credit to those
concerned. The school-house has a play-ground in front, an ap-
pendage that should always be looked upon as a sine qua non.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor on
the permanent roll may be stated at five. Besides these, however,
occasional relief is annually afforded to many whose circumstances
for a time require it, and in no place are the wants of the poor
more zealously attended to, or more liberally supplied. The week-
ly collections at the church door average L. 20 per annum, and
in addition to this source of aid, the poor derive assistance from
several mortifications made at different periods for their behoof, the
interest of which is L.25 per annum. We have no assessment,
nor is there any prospect of one ever being required. There are
frequent collections at the church door for charitable and religious
purposes, which may amount to from L. 25 to L. 30 per annum.
Fairs. — There was at one time an annual fair held in the vil-
lage of Carmunnock, on the first Friday of June, but it has now
gone into complete desuetude.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
The above statistics have reference solely to the parish of Car-
munnock quoad civilia, except when mention is expressly made of
those portions of territory annexed quoad sacra, a more full ac-
count of which is likely to be furnished by those ministers to whose
parishes they belong quoad civilia. The most marked improve-
ment since the publication of the last Statistical Account is be-
yond question, that which is connected with the agricultural state
of the parish, and its consequent increase of yearly rental. It
might have been mentioned on the subject of longevity, that the
writer of this account was once present at a funeral in the parish,
where there were present the father of the deceased, one of the
grandfathers, and the two great grandfathers ; and though this was
ten years ago, they are all alive at the present day.
July 1839.
PARISH OF CAMBUSNETHAN.
PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. ARCHIBALD LIVINGSTONE, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — CAMUS, in the Gaelic language, signifies a bay or curve.
There are two fine bendings of the river Clyde, from either of
which the name may have arisen : the one at Garrion, below the
junction of the Nethan and the Clyde ; and the other at the old
church, which is said to have been dedicated to Saint Nethan,
whom Archbishop Usher styles, " Religiosissimus et Doctissimus
Nethan."
Extent, Boundaries. — The parish is in shape somewhat like a
parallelogram, or rather like a sand-glass, and stretches from east
to west. Its length from the old kirk on the Clyde, at the west,
to Badallan beside Breich Water on the east, is nearly 12 miles.
The widest place at the west end, from Garrion on the south, to
Calder near Swinstie on the north, is 4 miles and 1 furlong; and
the widest place on the east, from Aughterhead on the south, to
Calder at Dykehead on the north, is nearly the same. In the
centre from Bogside on the south, to Bridgend on the north,' it is
scarcely 2 miles.
The parish is bounded by Shotts on the north ; Whitburn and
West Calder, on the east; Carnwath, Carstairs, and Carluke, on the
south ; and Dalserf, Hamilton, Dalzell, and Bothwell, on the west.
Hydrography. — The South Calder rises in the moorland grounds
near Tarrymuck in Linlithgowshire, and, pursuing a westerly
course, forms the northern boundary between this parish and Shotts
for upwards of nine miles. In the eastern parts of its course, it
runs through an open exposed country ; but for many miles be-
fore it falls into the Clyde, its banks are steep, richly covered with
wood, highly romantic, and interspersed with many gentlemen's seats.
Lingore Linn, Kitchen Linn, Darmead Linn, and Leadloch Burn,
which fall into Breich Water, are considerable streams at the east end
of theparish. Blindburn, Coalburn, and the stream which issues from
Redmyre, Loch, fall into the Calder nearer its centre. Auch-
CAMBUSNETHAN. (i<)9
ter water, which rises near Bon ty hillock in Carluke, after form-
ing the boundary between that parish and Cambusnethan for up-
wards of a mile, pursues a serpentine course through the parish
for about three miles, and falls into the South CalderatBridgend;
and Garrion Burn, which separates this from Carluke parish, after
running for three miles through a most romantic gill, often pre-
cipitous, shaded with wood, and adorned with orchards, empties
itself into the Clyde above Dalserf.
Topographical Appearances. — The grounds on the banks of the
Clyde are low and level, expanding into a series of beautiful and
fertile haughs. From the eastern border of these haughs, the
country rises to a considerable elevation ; the face of the acclivity
being generally adorned with orchards. The distance from the
river to the summits of these acclivities is nearly a mile. From
them there is a general rise, till the parish merges into the Lo-
thians. The elevation of the haughs on the Clyde is not more
than 120 feet. The high ground which skirts them on the east
may be about 250 feet in elevation ; while some of the higher lands
in the east end of the parish attain the altitude of at least 900 feet.
The climate is much the same as in the neighbouring parishes.
At the confluence of a small stream near Badallan with Breich
Water, the parishes of Cambusnethan, Whitburn, and West Cal-
der, and the coimjties of Lanark, Linlithgow, and Lothian meet.
There is an artificial knoll at the north-west corner of this pa-
rish, close to the river Calder, below Wishaw House, where it is
said the four parishes of Cambusnethan, Dalzell, Bothwell, and
Shotts unite.
About twelve years ago, a new road was formed from Edinburgh
to Ayr, which reaches this parish at Breich Water, and comes
down through the centre of it, nearly eleven miles, to Garrion-
bridge, which was thrown over the Clyde in 1818.
The eastern, which is the highest part of the parish, has a very
extensive view. From Knownowton you see the Castle of Edin-
burgh, Tinto, Loudon-hill, Dumbarton Castle, and the hills of
Argyleshire ; and to no evening scene have I ever been attracted
with greater rapture, than to observe the summer sun setting be-
hind the serrated cliffs of Arran, or throwing a blaze of parting
radiance around the lofty Benlomond. From the church of Cam-
busnethan you can see fifteen country churches, besides those of
Glasgow. *
* In Acta Parliamentorum Gulielmi, 1693, there is an ** act in favour of Sir
610 LANARKSHIRE.
Mineralogy. — This parish forms part of the great coal-field of
Lanarkshire, and coals are wrought in a great many places through-
out its bounds. It may be sufficient to mention only one of them.
The pit near Wishaw distillery is twenty-two fathoms deep, and
three seams are wrought in it. At the depth of fourteen fathoms,
the Ell coal occurs, which is here about seven feet thick. The
galleries are entered by means of a stage, but as the roof is chief-
ly of fire clay, there are only about five feet of coal wrought.
Eight feet farther down, the Pyatshaw and Main coal are found in
one seam, about nine feet thick. The metals between the Ell and
the Pyatshaw are chiefly blaes, with about a foot of sandstone. The
splint-coal lies about fifteen fathoms below the main coal. It is
wrought in the pits at Muirhouses, at the trifling depth of ten or
twelve fathoms. The whole metals are thrown up here by a great
dike, which may be seen at Bridgend. Another dike runs east
and west, passing below the distillery ; and there are several other
dikes which uniformly assume the same direction. At present
ten men are employed at the Wishaw colliery, each putting out
forty-five cwts. per day or 2700 cwts. per week. Fifteen cwts. are
now sold at 3s.
Nearly the whole of the parish is full of coal, and in many places
it is of great thickness. Should the railway come through this
parish, as is expected, it will open up the coal-fields in various
places, where there is at present no demand ; and will add great-
ly to the wealth and improvement of the district.
The east end of the parish contains a great deal of valuable iron-
stone. The blackband ironstone is found in the neighbourhood of
Headlesscross, as well as on the estates of Coltness and Allanton.
Thomas Stewart of Kirkfield, for two yearly fairs, and two weekly mercats at the
town of Overtoun of Cambusnethan." About a century ago, the greatest quantity
of oatmeal brought into the Glasgow market, and which also sold dearer than any other,
was Cambusnethan meal, so called, because it came from that parish, where, two
days in the week, it was collected at a market, once held at the village of Overtoun,
and afterwards, by the authority of the gentlemen of the county, transported to a place
more conveniently situated on the great road from Glasgow to Carnwath, called
Barnhall of Cambusnethan. In this market was collected the greater part of the meal
coming from the markets of Kelso, Peebles, Carnwath, and the parishes adjacent to
the market itself; for which reason, the whole, when it arrived at Glasgow, was cal-
led Cambusnethan meal.
This meal was sold at Barnhall by the load, containing thirty-three pecks Lanark
weight, and the expense of winter transportation on horseback was as follows : From
Peebles to Carnwath, per load, Is. 8d. ; from Carnwath to Barnhall, Is. 2d. ; from
Barnhall to Glasgow, Is. 8d. ; transportation of fifty miles, 4s. 6d. This load is^the
eighth part of a chalder, so that the transportation of a chalder at this rate would be
L. 1, 16s. or 8£d. per mile. Such was the winter price, when the roads were dread-
ful; but in summer, the price was scarcely one-half; for then a horse could carry
from three to four loads in a cart
3
CAMBUSNETHAN. 611
Sandstone of excellent quality is also found in various places. This
parish, in short, wants only some means of communication, with an
available market, to render it one of the most valuable in Scotland.
Two tile-works, on an extensive scale, are at present in active
operation upon the estate of Wishaw, and one on that of Coltness.
The clay is of excellent quality, and generally ten feet in thick-
ness. The shelves in one of the works are capable of containing
upwards of 29,000 undried tiles, and the stoves dry about 21,000
tiles at once. Both roof-tiles and draining tiles are manufactured
here in great perfection. There are three sets of draining tiles.
The middle-sized are sold at about L. 1, 10s. per 1000.
The Shotts Iron- Works, at the east end of this parish, have two
blast furnaces constantly employed. In consequence of these
works, the population has increased about 2000 ; and nearly one-
third of that population resides in this parish, at the ancient village
of Stane, which is separated from the parish of Shotts by the river
Calder.
Here is the principal coal-field ; and here the Shotts Iron Com-
pany have planted thirty acres of fiorin grass, which has, for these
twenty years, been very productive. Mr Baird, who superintends
the works, assured me that 3000 stones of grass, amounting to up-
wards of 500 stones of hay, have often been raised from one acre.
It cost L.I 5 per acre to prepare it for the fiorin grass, and, pre-
vious to that preparation, the ground was worth nothing. The soil
throughout this parish is generally clay, upon a bottom of an older
formation, here usually termed till.
The clay is in some places so strong, that it is wrought at a great
expense both of labour and cattle ; in other places, however, it is
more friable, and in some very fertile.
The haughs are mostly of transported soil, and bear evident
marks of having formed, at some remote period, the bottoms of
lakes. In the higher parts of the parish, the soil is generally in-
termixed with gravel and black sand, which renders 'it rather un-
favourable for cultivation. There is, however, much good land
in the parish, and grain of all sorts is raised in great perfection.
Zoology. — The deep ravines and craggy precipices about Garrion
Gill and the banks of South Calder, have been long the favourite
retreats of the fox and otter.
The badger, though formerly very common, is beginning to be
a rare animal, and the squirrel, formerly unknown, is establishing
itself throughout the whole of this district. The haughs on the
612 LANARKSHIRE.
Clyde are famous for the number and quality of their hares.
Other game is abundant ; but woodcocks are beginning to be
scarce.
The Clyde contains about twelve species of fishes, of which the
salmon is the principal. This fish, long scarce, has of late begun
to reappear ; and during the last few seasons, it was particularly
abundant. This may, in some measure, be owing to the generally
swollen state of the river, which permits them to overcome the
serious obstacles they have to encounter at Blantyre Cotton Mills.
Botany. — This parish presents a great variety of soil and sur-
face, and is therefore highly favourable for the growth of various
plants. A very complete and accurate list of these has been pub-
lished in a " Popular Description of the Indigenous Plants of
Lanarkshire, by the Rev. William Patrick." The following may
be given as a specimen of a few of the rarer and more interesting
sorts, viz : —
Schoenus albus Hieracium sylvaticum
Eriophorium vaginatum Habenaria trifolia
Poa aquatica Listera Nidus-Avis
Melica uniflora ovata
Symphytum tuberosum Nasturtium amara
Solarium dulcamara Scolopendrium vulgare
Erythraea Veronica montana
Polygonum bistorta Asplenium Trichomanes
Chrysosplenium alternifolium Doromcum Pardalianches
Stellaria nemorum
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
According to the Wishaw manuscript, " The barony of Cam-
busnethan belonged of old to a family of the name of Baird ; after
whose forefaulture, it fell into the hands of Sir Alexander De
Stewart. From the Stewarts it passed into the hands of the Som-
mervilles, who were the proprietors for many ages. The first of
this name who was Laird of Cambusnethan, was Sir John Sommer-
ville; who married the heiress of Cambusnethan in 1372; suc-
ceeded his father in 1380, and died in 1405. He was buried in
the choir of Cambusnethan church, beside his wife, and was the
first of the name who was buried there. This ancient and valuable
barony remained in the hands of the Sommervilles for six genera-
tions ; during which period, much of it was disponed to other heri-
tors; particularly, the lands ofCrindledykeand Branchellburn, to the
Laird of Lauchope ; the lands of Coltness, Wishaw, Watstein and
Stain, were purchased by Hamilton of Uddsten, the predecessor
of Lord Belhaven ; Greenhead was purchased by John Robertson,
and Overtown and Pather, became the property, first of Lord Bel-
- 4
CAMBUSNETHAN. 613
haven, and latterly of Sir David Stewart of Coltness. About the
year 1 649, the house and mains of the barony of Cambusnethan
were disponed to James Sommerville of Drum, and by him in
1661, to Sir John Harper, Advocate, who rebuilt the mansion
house of Cambusnethan. He sold the superiority of the Mains of
Coltness, and also the temple lands of Goukthrople to Sir Thomas
Stewart of Coltness.
" Upon the death of Sir John Harper, the lands of Cambus-
nethan were sold to the Lockharts of Castlehill." The barony of
Cambusnethan now goes to the second son of the Sinclairs of Ste-
venson and Murcle ; but the proprietor is always to assume the
name of Lockhart. The estate of Cambusnethan was left by the
first purchaser of the name of Lockhart to his sister, Martha, spouse
of Sir John Sinclair of Stevenston. It was incorporated into a
free barony, called the Barony of Cambusnethan, in favour of
James Lockhart of Castlehill, by a charter under the Great Seal,
dated 26th July 1695. In the year 1764, these lands came into
the possession of Captain James Lockhart, second son of Sir Ro-
bert Sinclair of Stevenston, Bart., who succeeded his uncle, George
Lockhart, Esq. of Castlehill, one of the Senators of the College of
Justice. The superiorities, &c. of the estates in the parish of
Stonehouse, which formerly belonged to Martha Lockhart, were al-
so formed into a barony by a charter under the Great Seal, called
the Barony of Castlehill ; which is the title that the family of Cam-
busnethan still retains.
Chalmers says, that the church of Cambusnethan, with its
tithes and other rights, was granted to the monks of Kelso, dur-
ing the twelfth centuryy by William Finemund, the Lord of the
Manor; and it was confirmed to them by Malcolm IV., and by
William the Lion. From Radulph de Cler, who seems to have
succeeded Finemund, as Lord of the Manor, the monks of Kelso
obtained a confirmation of the church of Cambusnethan; and he
granted to them, and to the said church, the tithe of all the
multure, and his produce of the mills of Cambusnethan ; and a
right of priority in grinding their corns at the said mill ; in return
for which, the monks granted him a license to have a private cha-
pel within his manor house. (Chart. Kelso, No. 278.)
The monks also obtained confirmation of this church from
Walter, Bishop of Glasgow, in 1232. Before the end of the ,
thirteenth century, the church of Cambusnethan, with its tithes
and other property, was transferred from the monks of Kelso to
LANARK. R r
614 LANARKSHIRE.
the Bishop of Glasgow. And it continued to belong to the Pre-
lates of that see, as a mensal church, till the Reformation ; and
in after times, while Episcopacy continued to exist, the cure was
served by a vicar.
At the Reformation, Sir James Hamilton had a lease from the
Archbishop of Glasgow, of the parsonage tithes of Cambusnethan
for a small rent. After the Reformation, the tithes and the pa-
tronage of the church followed the fate of the spiritual property of
the Archbishop of Glasgow.
In Acta Parliamentorum, v. 598, there is a ratification in favour
of the Duke of Lennox of the church lands of Cambusnethan.
And in 1696, there is also a ratification in favour of Anne Duchess
of Hamilton, of the whole rectory and vicarage tithes of the pa-
rish church of Cambusnethan, to be held in blench-farm for the
payment of one penny Scots yearly, and also paying the minister
of that parish the yearly stipend, as modified, from the parochial
tithes.
The patronage of the church was afterwards granted to the pro-
prietor of the barony of Cambusnethan ; and it now belongs to
Robert Lockhart, Esq. of Castlehill, who holds that barony.
At or within the manor house of Cambusnethan, was a chapel,
dedicated to St Michael, to which certain lands in the vicinity
were mortified.
The old church of Cambusnethan stood in a most romantic spot
at the south-west point of the whole parish, very near the river
Clyde. It had certainly been built there for the accommodation
of the Baron of Cambusnethan, so near his mansion house, and
probably at his sole expense, there being no other heritor in the
parish then but himself. The date of its erection is unknown ;
but it was long before the barony was separated, and long before
Thomas Lord Somerville gave to Lord Yester his first interest in
the parish. It had a choir, and from the remains of it still vi-
sible, must have been a much more magnificent structure than the
present one. It was, however, inconveniently situated for the pa-
rish at large, many of the parishioners, particularly those beyond
Redmyre, having to travel from six to twelve miles to attend it.
This church having stood nearly two centuries, was, after an in-
spection in presence, and by appointment of the presbytery of Ha-
milton, declared, 17th March 1837, by two respectable architects,
upon oath, to be in a ruinous and dangerous condition ; and the
minister was, by order of the presbytery, prohibited from preach-
CAMBUSNETHAN. 615
ing in it. A new church was ordered to be built, capable of con-
taining 1000 sitters, the minister and the great body of the pa-
rishioners expressing their wish that it should be built to accom-
modate the legal number of the population of the parish, which
contains 4000 inhabitants. The church, however, it was agreed,
should be built for only 800 ; the Church Extension Committee
promising to build a chapel between the parish ch%rch and the
manse, to contain an equal number. Although two years have
elapsed, neither church nor chapel has yet been begun ; and the
condemned church has, with the sanction of the presbytery, been
again opened for public worship.*
The church, after being seated in every corner, contained only
660 sitters. It was cold, damp, and uncomfortable. From these
and other circumstances, the people were forced to become Dis-
senters, and built a house for themselves at Wishaw Town, in con-
nexion with the Relief body.
There, there is also a house in connexion with the Reformed
Presbyterian Church, or the Cameronians ; and as this parish was
a very ancient seat of Secession, a house in connexion with the
Burghers, now with the United Associate Synod, was built near-
ly a century ago at Davies-dykes, which has of late been trans-
ferred to Bonkle, a small and romantic hamlet on the Allanton
estate.
Modern Buildings. — The principal seats in this parish besides
Cambusnethan House, are those of Wishaw, Coltness, Allanton,
and Muirhouse. About twenty years ago, a very elegant struc-
ture was erected at Cambusnethan, under the inspection of that
celebrated architect, Mr Gillespie Graham, on the site of the for-
mer, which had been consumed by an accidental fire. This build-
ing is in the Gothic style of architecture, and is a very chaste and
perfect representation of a priory. It is placed in a most ro-
mantic situation, and is an object well fitted to attract the admi-
ration of every traveller.
The present proprietor has added much to the beauty of the
place, and to the extent of the orchards. He has upwards of 25
acres planted with apple, pear, and plum trees of the best descrip-
* It is but justice to the heritors to mention, that since I gave in my Statistical
Report in March last, a new parish church has been begun in June, very near the
site of the present one, This site has been selected with good taste, as it is dry and
commanding, and not far from the centre of the population. The church is a neat,
plain structure, in the Gothic style, built of an excellent white freestone, which is
abundant in many parts of the parish*.
616 LANARKSHIRE.
tions ; and owing to the natural fertility of the soil, and the warm
and sheltered situation, his is the most productive orchard upon
Clyde.
The fruit was sold in 1828 for L. 402; 1829, L.371; 1830,
L. 231; 183L L. 317; 1832, L. 60 ; 1833, L. 485 ; 1834,
L. 180 ; 1835, L. 350, being at the average of L. 300 per annum.
And before iflfe Glasgow market was so glutted with fruit of an
inferior description, by the facility of steam navigation, this or-
chard, when it had not arrived at its present state of maturity, has
some years brought the sum of L. 1000.
There are in the parish upwards of 160 acres in orchard
ground. It is, however, less productive now than formerly ; and
the spirit of planting orchards is at present on the decline. A
cyder press, however, has been lately established, and, if proper-
ly conducted, may tend to cause a reaction. In 1827, upwards
of L. 2300 was received for the orchards in this parish, besides
L. 400 for gooseberries and currants.
Wishaw House, the seat of Lord Belhaven and Stenton, is si-
tuated on the River Calder, at the north-west corner of the pa-
rish. This mansion has been recently enlarged and beautifi-
ed under the direction of Mr Gillespie Graham. The style of
architecture is the castellated ; and the whole is a very successful
alteration of an ancient building. The front has an extremely
handsome appearance, the outline being much varied by the dif-
ferent heights and projections of the towers and embattled walls.
The apartments are suitable to the extent of the house, and some
of them are particularly worthy of examination for their beauty
and proportions. There are several excellent family portraits pre-
served at Wishaw House ; one of Sir James Balfour, Lord Lyon,
King of arms in the reign of Charles I. by Vandyke, is reckoned
a very valuable painting. There is also a picture of John, Lord
Belhaven, who, in the reign of Queen Anne, made so strenuous
an opposition to the treaty of Union.
Family of'Belhaven. — The territorial possessions of this family
in the county of Lanark are very ancient. The peerage of Bel-
haven and Stenton was conferred on Sir John Hamilton of Biel,
in the county of Haddington, by Charles I. in 1647. The patent
was surrendered to Charles II. in 1695, and regranted by his Ma-
jesty with farther remainders.
The father of the present Lord Belhaven succeeded to the
CAMBUSNETHAN. 617
title in 1799, by a decree of the House of Lords. He died at
his seat 20th October 1814.
By Penelope, daughter of Ranald Macdonald, Esq. of Clanro-
nald, he left Robert Montgomery Hamilton, eighth Lord Bel-
haven, born in 1793. He married in 1816 Hamilton, daughter
of Walter Campbell, Esq. of Shawfield, maternally descended
from the family of Belhaven.
Garrion, a most romantic spot, at the south-east corner of the
parish, opposite the House of Dalserf, and immediately adjoining
the parish of Carluke, is also the property of Lord Belhaven.
Here the river Clyde takes a most beautiful bend ; completely en-
circling the house and lands of Garrion on two sides. From this
is seen to great advantage the picturesque scenery about Maulds-
lie Castle, the rich and highly cultivated haughs of Cambusnethan,
studded with magnificent trees ; also the church and village of
Dalserf with Milburne, surrounded by orchards, and presenting a
most enchanting view, particularly at the season when the fruit
trees are in blossom.
There was an ancestor of Lord Belhaven, a Mrs Anne Hamil-
ton, daughter of Robert Hamilton, younger of Wishaw, who, pre-
viously to the year 1730, gave and bequeathed the sum of L. 600
Scots money, for the use and behoof of the indigent widows and
children of such Presbyterian ministers within the presbytery of
Hamilton, as should join and contribute money for the same ends
and uses ; and committed the administration thereof to the mi-
nisters of said presbytery, who should thereafter contribute for the
said purposes. This sum, having received several additions, par-
ticularly one from the celebrated Dr Matthew Baillie, one of the
physicians of George III., whose father had been minister of Shotts,
and afterwards of Hamilton, now amounts to about L. 2000 Ster-
ling, from which each of the widows of the ministers of Hamilton
Presbytery receives an annuity of L. 20 Sterling.
Family of Stewart ofColtness. — The Coltness estate belonged
to Sir James Stewart Denham of Coltness and Westshields, now
in his ninety-fifth year. Sir James, many years ago, added a new
front to the house of Coltness ; and it is now a very elegant and
commodious building. The dining-room and drawing-room are
large and well-proportioned ; and between them runs a gallery,
hung round with ancient portraits of the family ; and the extreme
distance of the dining-room and drawing-room along this gallery
is nearly 200 feet. The second son of James Stewart of Allan-
618 LANAllKSHIRE.
ton became the first Sir James Stewart of Coltness and Kirkfield.
He was born in 1608, and, being a banker in Edinburgh, he ac-
quired a large fortune. In 1653, he purchased the lands of West
Carbarns or Kirkfield, from Sir John Somerville of Cambusnethan,
and soon after, the estate of Coltness, from Sir John Hamilton of
Udston. It had been sold as early as 1553 by the Somervilles of Cam-
busnethan, to Sir Robert Logan of Restalrig. In 1649, he was elect-
ed Lord Provost of Edinburgh ; and, being a zealous Covenanter,
he was, in the following year, chosen, together with the Marquis of
Argyle and the Earl of Eglinton, on the part of the Scotch, to
hold the conference with Oliver Cromwell in Burntsfield Links.
In 1659, he was again elected Lord Provost; but, on account of
his Whig principles, dismissed at the Restoration, and sent prisoner
first to Edinburgh Castle, and then to Dundee, and fined in L. 1500
Sterling. A length in 1670 he obtained a pardon.
The excellent Bishop Leighton was brought up in Edinburgh
under Sir James Stewart's care ; and the undaunted Hugh M'Kail,
who was so inhumanly tortured by order of the privy-council, and
afterwards executed in 1666, had been chaplain in his family.*
Mr Hugh M'Kail, who was tutor in the family of Sir James
Stewart of Coltness and Goodtrees, in a sermon which he preach-
ed in the great Church of Edinburgh, showed that it was no new
thing for the church to suffer persecution. He said, " A Pharaoh
on the throne, a Haman in the state, and a Judas in the church,
had been instrumental in that work in former times ;" and Sharpe
and Lauderdale, thinking their portraits had been very accurately
taken, were galled to the heart ; and for this a troop of Dragoons
surrounded the house of Sir James Stewart, and apprehended Mr
M'Kail.
Sir James Stewart, son of him before named, was born in 1635,
and married Agnes, daughter of the Rev. Robert Traill, minister
* Among many particulars which I found recorded in " the Coltness manuscripts,"
I shall transcribe the following :
" Sir James Stewart, who had been twice first magistrate of Edinburgh, when near-
ly seventy-three years of age, after his last visit to Coltness, when going to Edinburgh,
accompanied by some of the most respectable in the land ; at Muiryett, about two
miles from Allanton, there is a rising ground which draws an extensive prospect,
there he stopt, and having turned his horse, he looked around upon a scenery that
he was convinced he should behold no more, and exclaimed, while tears of gratitude
flowed down his venerable cheeks, " Westshiel, and Lanark, and Carnwath Church,
my early home, my favourite haunts, farewell ; Coltness and Allanton, and Cambus-
nethan Church, my later sweet abodes, farewell. Ye witnesses of my best spent
hours, and of my most ardent devotions, a last farewell. It is long since I bade
the vanities of this world adieu." May piety so exalted distinguish all, who frequent
these places of worship, and who inhabit these abodes !
CAMBUSNETHAN. 619
of Edinburgh. He was bred to the Bar, and was one of the most
eminent lawyers of his time. He died in 1713, in the office of
Lord Advocate, and was succeeded hy his son, the third Sir James
Stewart of Goodtrees and Coltness. He was born in 1681, and
married Anne, daughter of Sir Hugh Dalrymple of North Ber-
wick, Lord President of the Court of Session. He was an Advo-
cate, and became Solicitor- General for Scotland.
His daughter, Margaret, born in 1715, married Thomas Cal-
derwood of Poltown, whose eldest daughter, Anne, married James
Durham of Largo, father of the present General ; and of the
Admiral Sir Philip Durham, K. C. B.
Agnes, born in 1717, married David, Earl of Buchan, father to
David, the late Earl, Henry Erskine of Ammondelle, and Thomas
Lord Erskine, Lord Chancellor; and Marion, born in 1723, mar-
ried Alexander Murray of Cringletie, father of James Wolfe Mur-
ray, late Lord Cringletie.
Sir James died in 1727, and was succeeded by his son, born in
1713, who married Frances Wemyss, eldest daughter of David,
Earl of^ Wemyss. He, too, was bred to the Bar, and early dis-
played superior abilities and commanding eloquence. In the Re-
bellion 1745, he was believed to have been Prince Charles's con-
fidential agent at the court of France. He resided there for
eighteen years. In 1763, he was allowed to return to Scotland;
and eight years after, a formal pardon was procured for him.
He died 1780, and was succeeded by his only son, Sir James
Stewart of Coltness and Westshiel. He married Alicia, daughter
of Blacker of Carrick, in Ireland. He is a General in the army,
and represented the county of Lanark in three successive Parlia-
ments.*
The estate is now in the possession of Thomas Houldsworth,
Esq., M. P. for Nottingham, who is erecting extensive iron works
at New Mains, and setting a pattern to his tenantry, by draining
his estate in the very best manner.
Family of Stewart of Allanton. — The lands of Allanton belong-
ed of old to the abbey of Aberbrothic, and have for centuries been
in the possession of a very ancient branch of the Darnley Stewarts.
" Allan Stewart of Daldowie," (Crawford's Description of Ren-
frewshire, p. 469,) " early attached himself to the house of Doug-
las, under the celebrated Sir James, commonly called * Black
Douglas,' and married into that family. From his bravery in head-
* Sir James Stewart died since this account was drawn up.
620 LANARKSHIRE.
ing a party which stormed the Castle^of Ainwick in Northumber-
landshire, he obtained the sirname of ' Alnwickster.'
" In 1385, (according to the traditional accounts of the family)
when Scotland was invaded by King Richard II., Allan, though
past sixty, commanded a chosen body of men, consisting of his te-
nants, at Daldowie, and others levied in the neighbourhood of
Rutherglen, and was marching to join the army then assembled
on the borders, under the Earl of Douglas, when he encountered,
at a place called Morningside, in the Moor of Macmoreen, a de-
tachment of English horse, which, on account of foraging and plun-
der, was scouring the country. After a severe conflict, the enemy
was routed ; but he himself was killed in the action. His remains
were deposited in the chapel of Beuskiag, close by Morningside,
a religious house, dependent on the abbey of Aberbrothic, the
Abbot of which was lord of the district."
Sir Walter Stewart of Allanton was born in 1606, and married
Margaret, daughter of Sir James Hamilton of Broomhill, and sister
to the first Lord Belhaven, and to James Hamilton, minister of
Cambusnethan. and afterwards Bishop of Galloway. — " It is re-
corded that Oliver Cromwell, in 1650, after the battle of Dunbar,
in his progress through Lanarkshire, halted with a few attendants
at Allanton House, where he was hospitably entertained by Lady
Stewart, and where he passed the night. Sir Walter, being a
Royalist, took care to be out of the way. On the Protector's ar-
rival, it is said, some choice Canary and other refreshments, were
presented, but he would suffer nothing to be touched, until he him-
self had first said grace, which he fervently did, for more than
half an hour, to the great edification of the lady. He then cour-
teously inquired after Sir Walter, and on drinking the health of
the family, observed that his mother's name was Stewart, and that
he always felt a kindness for the name."
James died in 1772, and was succeeded by his son, Sir Henry
Stewart, Bart, of Allanton, LL. D., F. R. S., &c, author of a
Translation of Sallust, 2 vols. quarto, and an Essay on the best
mode of Transplanting Trees," in which art he was very successful.
By adorning his estate with an uncommon degree of skill and assi-
duity, he conferred no slight benefit on a considerable district of
this parish. He made a splendid addition to the old Castle of
Allanton, under the direction of Mr Gillespie Graham, and beau-
tified an extensive park which surrounds it. He formed a most
picturesque lake in front of his house, of very considerable magni-
CAMBUSN ETHAN. 621
tilde, studded with islands, clothed with wood, and from no one
point of which can its extent be seen. Sir Henry was an elegant
scholar, and an accomplished gentleman. He was born in 1759,
and married in 1787, Lillias, daughter of Hugh Seton of Touch.
He died in March 1836.
Elizabeth, his only daughter, born in 1789, married Reginald
Macdonald of Staffa, third son of Colin Macdonald of Boisdale,
but the eldest by his second marriage. He was Sheriff of Stirling-
shire, and died in 1833. He has left, besides the present Sir
Henry James, two sons and two daughters.
Muirhouse, the property of the ancient family of Dalzell, and
the jointure house of that family, is situated at the western extre-
mity of the parish, within half a mile of the House of Dalzell. It
is an old building, on a very commanding situation. It was at one
time the residence of the clergyman, when public worship was per-
formed at the Old Kirk, from which it is little more than a quarter
of a mile distant. Between these places runs a hedge, called
Stockleton Dike, where a farmer is said to have been murdered in
times of persecution.*
III. — POPULATION.
Wishawtown and Stewarton, included, fornr ;he chief village in
the parish; containing a population of 1700. Avirknow, around the
church, contains 250. Bonkle, three miles up the parish, contains
200. And Stain, four miles further up, contains 600. The popu-
lation of this parish is as follows : —
In 1 755, it amounted to 1419
1781, - 1562
1791, - 1684
1803, - 1795
1814, - 2657
1824, - 3248
1839, - 4059
Number of families in the parish, • • 3 . - 765
'chiefly employed in agriculture, 118
trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 342
* The following is the inscription on his tombstone in the old church-yard :
" Here lies Arthur Inglis in Nethertoun, who was shot at Stockleton Dyke by
bloody Graham of Claverhouse, July 1679, for his adherence to the word of God
and Scotland's covenanted work of Reformation. Rev. 12, 11.
" When I did live, such was the day,
Forsaking sin made men a prey
Unto the rage and tyranny,
Of that throne of iniquity,
Who robbed Christ and killed his saints,
And brake and burned his covenants,
I at that time this honour got,
To die for Christ upon this spot.
622 LANARKSHIRE.
The number of illegitimate births during the last three .years,
is 13.
I am decidedly of opinion, from many years of laborious experi-
ence, that nothing would conduce more to the moral and religious
interests of this extensive population, than infant and juvenile
schools, erected in the most populous parts of it ; as from the habits
of the females, who are principally devoted to tambouring and sew-
ing muslin, their maternal and domestic duties are too much ne-
glected.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Assuming that in this parish, there are altogether 26,000 im-
perial acres, I learn from the most diligent inquiries, that 10,000
of these are either cultivated, or occasionally in tillage ; that the
remainder have never been cultivated; but that 10,000 more
might, with a proper application of capital, be added to the culti-
vated land of the parish ; and that about 6000 acres are in woods,
roads, quarries, &c. and incapable of being rendered arable.
Lord Belhaven has lately erected at the west end of the village
of Wishawtown, a very large and extensive distillery. The whole
buildings are of the very best mason-work, and completely slated,
and, besides, there are extensive shades for feeding cattle, annexed
to it, in complete unison with the other buildings.
Much has been done, within these few years, regarding draining.
But as yet, the process to the tenantry is still expensive, as it re-
quires 3050 tiles to drain an acre. But from the nature of the soil
throughout the parish, viz. a cold wet clay, the most extensive
draining is necessary to render the soil either fertile or productive.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Ecclesiastical State and Education. — The stipend of this parish
is 18 chalders, half meal, half barley, at the fiars price for Lanark-
shire ; together with L. 100 Scots for communion elements. There
is a glebe of 4 acres, but it and the manse are two miles from the
church. The number of families connected with the Establish-
ed Church, is 419.
There are three endowed schools in the parish. The parochial
school, at which Latin, English grammar, writing, and arithmetic
are taught, has attached to it the maximum salary, a free house
and garden, and the usual fees, which do not exceed L. 20 a year.
At Stain, a school was built and endowed with a salary of about
L. 20, by Mr Wilson in Whitburn ; and at Muiryett, ground was
CAMBUSNETHAN. 623
given by Sir Henry Steuart to build a school, a teacher's house,
and garden, to which there is attached a small salary.
There are at present altogether nine schools which the children
of the parish attend, and this last season (1838), there were at
one time 476 scholars at the whole, which is no less than one to
every eight inhabitants.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons
regularly receiving parochial aid is 50. Those who receive acci-
dental charity vary according to circumstances. From L. 200 to
L. 250 is annually distributed. The collections at the churoh-
doors, amounting to about L. 45, and the sums received for mort-
cloths, together with an annual collection from each of the Dis-
senting houses, are the chief sources of their relief; and what is
required beyond these, is made up by the heritors, according to
their respective valuations. The whole valuation of the parish is
L. 5400, 10s. Scots. During the years 1832 and 1833, there was
a regular assessment on the parish, and then the collections at the
church dwindled into a mere trifle. The poor came forward
shamelessly demanding support; and this plan was attended with
so many difficulties, it was so unpopular and likely to bring such
an additional burden on the parish, that it was laid aside.
The inhabitants have given a good specimen of their taste for
literature, by the institution of two libraries, supported by subscrip-
tion, and containing a judicious selection of books chiefly histori-
cal and religious.
About the centre of the parish, still called Chapel, there is said
to have been an ancient place of worship. But no vestige of it now
remains. And in the eastern part of it, at Darmead Linn, there
are said to be the ruins of an old church " where Cameron thun-
dered, and where Renwick poured the gentle notes,"
March 1839.
PARISH OF BERTRAM SHOTTS.
PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. WALTER L. COLVIN, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — ACCORDING to a tradition which seems well authenti-
cated, this parish derives its name from a robber called Bartram de
Shotts, who in ancient times infested this part of the country, and
was the Rob Roy of his day. He was killed not far from the si-
tuation of the present church.
Extent, Sfc. — The figure of this parish is nearly that of an oblong
square. It extends 10 miles in length, and 8 in breadth ; it varies in
elevation from 200 to°850 feet above the level of the sea. It is divided
from East Monkland and Torphichen on the north, by the North
Calder, and from Cambusnethan on the south, by the South Calder.
On the east, it is separated from Whitburn by a small burn, and
on the west, from Both well by an old fence. In ancient times
Shotts formed part of the parish of Bothwell, under the designa-
tion of " Bothwell-muir."
Geology and Mineralogy. — The geology of the parish is of a
mixed character, consisting partly of a portion of the great coal-
field of Lanarkshire, where it encroaches on the calciferous de-
posits of Wilsonton and Clympie pnthe south-east, and the trappean
rocks of Shotts and Monkland to the north. Indeed, the parish of
Shotts, geologically speaking, nearly divides itself into two great
groups or portions, the igneous and sedimentary rocks. The trap-
pean rocks are mostly dolerite or common greenstone, and are protrud-
ed in a very bold and massive group, constituting nearly the whole
of the northern half of the parish. The line of division between
the igneous and sedimentary rocks is indicated on the map with
tolerable precision by the south Edinburgh and Glasgow road.
Some of these traps are undoubtedly protruded upwards among
the coal measures of this extensive mineral district, while certain
portions are found overlapping the mineral deposits, or distinctly
interstratified between them. At Shott-burn, both coal and iron
are found below the trap, and the sandstone in contact with it is
BERTRAM SHOTTS. 625
blackened and hardened as if it had been subjected to a consider-
able heat. At Bogend the lowest, members of the coal forma-
tion have evidently been upheaved by the lava-like protrusion
of the trap, which brings the Millstone-grit and its accompanying
bed of coal to the surface. The minerals below the trap at the
Kirk of Shotts are as follows :
Coal. Ironstone. Limestone. Other rocks.
Ft. fn. Ft. in. Ft. In. Fath. Ft- In.
Dark green shale,
0
0
0
0
0
0
6
0
0
Slaty sandstone,
0
0
0
0
0
0
3
0
0
Light fire-clay,
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
5
0
Ironstone about,
0
0
0
8
0
0
0
0
0
Coal,
1
9
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
Light fire-clay,
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
4
0
Slaty pavement sandstone,
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
3
0
Light shale,
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
3
0
Coal smithy,
1
4
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
Shale and faiks,
0
0
0
0
0
0
15
0
0
Hard sandstone,
0
0
0
0
0
0
4
0
0
Shale,
0
0
0
0
0
0
1
3
0
Smithy coal,
0
9
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
Faiks and shale,
0
0
0
0
0
0
5
0
0
Two ironstone bands,
0
0
0
8
0
0
0
0
0
Cannel coal,
3
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
Sandstone and shale,
0
0
0
0
0
0
9
0
0
Coal,
1
4
0
9
0
0
0
0
0
The most interesting portion of tke parish, in reference to its
mineralogy, lies to the south of the Glasgow and Edinburgh road,
and comprehends some of the most valuable carboniferous de-
posits in this valuable mineral section of Scotland. The coals
have been chiefly wrought here. The principal seams wrought
are the Lady Anne, or splint coal, the Shotts Ironworks first
and second coals, the Smithy coal, and the parrot or cannel
coal. The relative positions in which these coals stand to
each other are as follows : From Lady Anne coal to Shotts Iron-
works first coal, 40 fathoms ; to Shotts Ironworks second coal,
6 fathoms; to Shotts Smithy coal, 9 fathoms; to parrot coal, 4
fathoms. The coal which ought to be found above these are
the Ell, Pyotshaw, and Main coal. As the Monklands have now
become the Rome and Athens of our coal districts, there seems
to be a propriety in adopting, as far as possible, their mineral phra-
seology. We therefore give the same seams, though designated
by different names, as follows :
Names in Shotts. Names in Monland.
Ell coal. Eil coal.
Pyotshaw. Pyotshaw.
Main coal. Main coal.
Lady Anne coal. Splint coal.
1. Shotts Ironwork coal. Vertenwell coal.
2. do. do. Kiltongue.
626 LANARKSHIRE.
The smithy is an altered coal, and along with its accompanying
splint seems to be the same as is found at Kirkmuirhill, in the pa-
rish of Lesmahago. From the undermost coals only being found
here, it appears that the great carboniferous group is beginning
to crop out, and that indue time it will gradually wear out and merge
into the calciferous deposits found a little to the south-east, in the
parish of Carnwath. The distance from the limestone in most
parts of the parish is, however, very great, and, if calculated from
the lowest coal alone, includes a succession of 147 different strata.
The succession of the strata at Curry side, near Shotts Ironworks,
is as follows :
Coal. Ironstone. Other rocks.
Ft. In. Ft. In Fath. Ft. In.
1. Shale, . . 00 00 026
2. Ironstone with nodules, 00 08 000
3. Bituminous shale, .00 00 004
4. Coal, (1. Shotts Ironwork,) 3 2 6 00 000
5. Shale and sandstone, 00 00 070
6 Coal, (2. Shotts Ironwork,) or
Drumgray, . 20 00 000
The following strata are also found at Benhar in this parish.
Coal. Ironstone. Other rocks.
Ft. In. Ft. In. Fath. Ft. In.
1. Alluvium, . 00 736
2. Coal, - * 1 6 000
3. Soft shale, - 00 004
4. Sandstone, - 00 040
5. Shale, -.00 016
6. Sandstone, - 00 006
7. Shale, 0 0 030
8. Splint coal, 38 000
The Lady Anne coal, as already mentioned, is a splint coal.
The first Shotts coal is known in the west end of the parish by
the name of the Cleland Wee coal. It has a stratum of balls and
a band of ironstone above it. This is a soft coal, and, being en-
tirely free of sulphur, is of excellent quality for making iron. The
second coal is chiefly used for house fires. The Shotts smithy
coal, from eight to nine fathoms below the Shotts second coal, is
apparently only apartial deposit, but where found, if of good quality, is
one of the most valuable coals in Scotland. It averages from about
twenty-four to thirty inches thick, and is always best when found
near to the igneous or dolerite rocks. In this condition, it is known
to extend all over the glebe. It is at present wrought on the Duke
of Hamilton's lands, and to the north of the glebe, in a pit about
fifteen fathoms deep, in which there is an engine to lift the water,
and the coals to the surface. This, like the Shotts first coal, is
wrought by room and ranee.
4
BERTRAM SHOTTS. 627
The only ironstone wrought in the parish has been a few indif-
ferent strata of ball and band above the Shotts first coal. The
balls may be considered rich, producing about thirty-five per cent of
iron from the raw stone ; but the band is very poor, and produces
about twenty per cent.
There is abundance of fire-clay all over the south side of the
parish, which has now become of great importance from the num-
ber of blast furnaces in the neighbourhood. The pavement of all
the coal-fields is of fire-clay, but the best is considered to be that
found below the Shotts first coal, which is easily wrought, and
very abundant. Another very good stratum, lying about ten fathoms
above the Shotts first coal, has also been wrought for a period of
years, and used in making brick for blast and air furnaces. It
is several feet in thickness, but there are only about three feet of
it wrought in the middle of the stratum.
Zoology. — There are few woods or plantations of any very great
extent in the parish, and of course, the Mammalia fera, birds, and
other animals which delight in such localities are rather scarce.
Among quadrupeds we have, by our ditches and lakes, the Sorex
fodiens or water-shrew, and the Arvicola aquatica or water vole.
The Mustela Erminea attains a great size in this parish, is some-
times entirely white, and is said to be destructive to young hares.
It is also very fond of eggs, pigeons, rats, mice, and putrid meat.
Among the birds, the Lagopus Scoticus and Tetrao Tetrix, are
common in the moors. The Falco Tinunculus^ Buteo nisus and
ceruginosus are the most common of the hawk species. The Ca-
primulgus Europeus is common about Murdostown. The Ardea
cinerea often visits us from Hamilton, Gartshore, and other places,
and the stately Numenius arquata often whistles about our ears in
the high and barren parts of the country. The Scolopax gallinago
affords excellent shooting in some quarters, and also the gallinula,
which is pretty common. The Vanellus cristatus affords excellent
eating, and if it were better known would be preferred to some
species of game.
Of the reptile kind, the most common are Lacerta agilis, Vi-
pera communis, Triton palustris, aquaticus and wlgaris, Rana tem-
poraria, and Bufo vulgar is.
In the Lily-loch, besides the common trout, the Salmo salvelinus
or red char is found in great perfection ; also Esox Lucius ; and in the
reservoir, the Percafluviatilis is so abundant that the trout and other
fishes present a lean and starved appearance from want of food.
628 LANARKSHIRE.
Of molluscous, radiated, and zoophytic animals, there are many
varieties, but these, like the Cryptogamise of the vegetable king-
dom, are too minute in their physical organization and distinctive
characters ever to become a very popular branch of natural science.
Botany. — There are many interesting plants in this parish, of
which our present limits will only afford a very imperfect notice.
The Chara vulgaris is found in stagnant ditches, and also the Ca-
litriche verna and autumnalis. The Veronica anagalis is found in
ditches near Newhouse. Many species of Carices are found in the
moors, some of them scarce ; also a great variety of the Orchidece.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
The only historical event worthy of being recorded connected
with this parish is the great revival of religion which took place
in the year 1630, in consequence of a sermon preached by the
"Rev. Mr Livingstone. His discourse was delivered upon the Mon-
day after the dispensation of the sacrament, which was the first
time that a meeting for divine service was held upon that day. No
fewer than 500 persons are stated to have been savingly impressed
on that occasion.
The parish of Shotts appears to have contributed its quota of
fighting men to the fatal field of Both well Bridge in 1679, as the
banner which was borne by them on that occasion may still be seen
at the farm of Nethertown, in excellent preservation, bearing the
well known motto, " For Scotland's covenanted work of reforma-
tion." In the church-yard are interred the ashes of one of these
right-hearted men of other days. Upon his gravestone the fol-
lowing lines are inscribed, — " Here lyes the bones of William
Smith, who lived in Moremellen, who with others appeared in arms
at Pentland hills in defence of Scotland's covenanted work of re-
formation in anno 1666 ; agreeable to the word of God, in oppo-
sition to Popery, Prelacy and Perjury, and was murdered on his
return home near this place/'
Eminent Men. — Three celebrated persons were born in the pa-
rish, viz. Mr Gavin Hamilton of Murdoston, the famous histori-
cal painter ; Mr John Miller, who was Professor of Law in the
University of Glasgow, well known to the world by his learned
publications ; and Dr Matthew Baillie, the distinguished anatomist
and physician. He was the son of the Rev. James Baillie, D. D.
minister of Shotts, and brother of Miss Joanna Baillie, the talent-
ed authoress.
Dr Cullen began his practice as a medical man in this parish,
BERTRAM SHOTTS. 6*20
In speaking of the climate of Shotts, he was wont to say — not in
irony — that it was the Montpelier of Scotland.
Parochial Registers. — The earliest entry in the parochial regis-
ters bears date 1 641. These registers do not appear to have been
regularly kept until the year 1785.
Land-owners. — The principal land-owners in the parish are,
His Grace the Duke of Hamilton ; Sir Thomas Inglis Cochrane
of Murdoston, M. P. ; the Right Honourable Dowager Lady
Torphichen ; and Robert Carrick Buchanan, Esq. of Drumpellier.
III. — POPULATION.
The population of Shotts, according to a census taken by my-
self two years ago, amounts to 3750 souls. In 1755, the number
was 2322, thus showing a very considerable increase, which is
mainly attributable to the establishment of the iron-works in the
south-east quarter of the parish. Of the population, 1270 are
resident in villages ; the remainder live in the country, and are
very much scattered.
The yearly average of marriages for the last seven years is 47.
I cannot speak with the same degree of accuracy as to the average
of births and deaths in the parish during that period, in conse-
quence of the want of proper registers.
Number of families in the parish in 1831, - - 621
chiefly employed in agriculture, 246
trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 345
Number of illegitimate births in the parish during the last three years, about 20
There are 34 proprietors of land of the yearly value of
L. 50 and upwards ; and it is much to be regretted that so very
few of them reside in the parish. There are at an average 3
children in each family. There are 12 fatuous and 2 blind
persons in the parish. With regard to the general character of
the people, I am happy in having it in my power to state that they
are intelligent, moral, and religious. They are more than usually ac-
tive and industrious ; and although the husbandmen have been very
inadequately repaid for their labours by the crops of the last three
years, yet I have rarely heard a murmur or complaint. Smuggling
at one time prevailed to a very considerable extent in the parish,
but is now altogether unknown amongst us."
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — The total number of imperial acres in the parish
is about 32,000. From one-half to two-thirds of the lands in the
parish are arable ; the remainder is uncultivated. At least, one-half
of the unreclaimed land might be profitably improved ; but in con-
LANARK. S S
630 LANARKSHIRE.
sequence of the want of capital amongst the tenantry, and the ab-
sence of adequate encouragement on the part of the landlords, it
is to be feared that the heather-bell will bloom perennially in the
parish. There are about five or six acres of undivided common.
There are at least 500 acres under wood. Formerly the Scotch
fir was planted to the exclusion of all other trees, but now spruce
and larch are preferred, both of which thrive remarkably well. It
is a pity that our landed proprietors seem to forget that he who
plants a tree is a benefactor of his species. Shelter is sadly de-
ficient, particularly in those districts where it is most required.
Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is from 10s. to
L. 1, 10s. per acre.
Wages. — The wages of labourers range from 10s. to 12s. per
week all the year round. Artisans, viz. masons and wrights, re-
ceive at an average from 18s. to L. I, 4s. a week.
Live-Stock. — For the fineness and symmetry of their cows, the
farmers here deserve much commendation. Their draught horses
also are excellent, being the best Clydesdale breed. Much suc-
cess has attended the rearing of horses in this parish. A stimulus
has of late years been given to the improvement of farm stock by
the establishment of an agricultural society, whose shows are highly
creditable to the tenantry of this district.
A very large portion of land has been reclaimed, during these
last twenty years, by means of draining and digging. Two first
prizes for ameliorations were some time ago awarded by the High-
land Society of Scotland to two gentlemen in 'this parish ; one to
Cosmo Falconer, Esq. of Hartwoodhill, and the other to William
Weir, Esq. of Shottsburn.
Leases. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years. Were
they longer it would be much more advantageous for the occu-
pier of the land, especially where a considerable part of the farm is
waste.
The tenants here are not, generally speaking, well accommodated
with regard to dwelling-houses, but latterly an improvement in this
respect has taken place.
As almost all the raw produce raised in this parish is consumed
by the farmers themselves, it is exceedingly difficult definitely to
ascertain it value.
Manufactures. — There are two iron-works in Shotts, — one in the
south-east, and the other in the south-west part of the parish.
The former were established in 1802 by a few private individuals,
BERTRAM SHOTTS. 631
and have ever since been under the management of John Baird,
Esq. who planned and superintended their erection. Besides the
smelting of iron ore, which was all that was originally contemplated
in these works, an extensive foundry was built many years ago,
the castings from which have long maintained a character second
only to those of the Carron Company. For many years there was
only one smelting furnace in blast, and the produce of pig-iron was
no more than 45 tons weekly, but in consequence of various local
improvements, and particularly the use of heated air, the produce
from two furnaces now in operation is 160 tons weekly. A third
furnace is at present being erected. A large engineering establish-
ment was added to the works some years ago, in which many ma-
rine and land steam-engines, and other kinds of machinery, have
been fitted up, which have given much satisfaction to the purchasers.
The country around these works was formerly altogether un-
productive, and, from the want of roads, was of little or no value;
but from the impulse given to improvement by the circulation of
L. 500 weekly amongst the workmen, &c. the face of the country
has undergone a most surprising change.
The other iron-works in the south-west of the parish are called
the Omoa works, and were erected in 1787. They are the pro-
perty of Mr Young, and at present there is one furnace in opera-
tion.
It gives me sincere pleasure to state that Mr Baird has of late
stopped the working of his furnaces on Sabbath.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
There is no market-town in the parish.
We have four villages, viz. Shotts Works, Omoa, Harthill, and
Sallysburgh. We have a penny-post at Shotts Works, and have
reason to expect that in a very short time there will be another
established on the line of the mail-coach in Sallysburgh. The
length of the turnpike roads in the parish is about seventeen miles,
and no fewer than twenty public coaches, pass through it daily.
Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands in a very centrical po-
sition, being, as nearly as may be, equidistant from the different ex-
tremities of the parish. It was built in the year 1820, and is in a
good state of repair. It affords accommodation for 1200 persons.
All the sittings are free. Within the last year a new manse was
built, which may well be characterized as most substantial and com-
modious. Great praise is due to the heritors for their liberality
in erecting such an excellent house. The glebe extends to
632 LANARKSHIRE.
nearly 44 acres, and as to surface value, is worth L. 1 per acre.
Four acres are under wood. The glebe lands contain two seams
of coal, viz. the parrot or splint, and the smithy. From these
seams coal was wrought to a greater or less extent by my pre-
decessors during the last thirty-six years. The subject of the glebe
minerals was first brought before the presbytery of Hamilton in
the year 1802 by Mr Hamilton, the then incumbent of Shotts.
He represented to the presbytery that he had worked coals in his
glebe sufficient for his family in the season, and had sold as much
as defrayed the expenses of the working. He farther stated, that
certain stone or other durable fences for the improvement of the
glebe would be of permanent advantage to the minister of the pa-
rish, and that these objects might be obtained by authorizing him
to continue the working the coal and selling the same for a time,
the profits of which to be applied in making the above ameliora-
tion.
Upon this representation by Mr Hamilton, the presbytery autho-
rized him to continue the working and sale of the coal. Such was
the commencement of the sale of the coal in the glebe of Shotts,
which has been continued till within these few years. Some time
ago, his Grace the Duke of Hamilton sunk a coal-pit in the im-
mediate vicinity of the glebe, upon which he erected an engine, and
by means of which the whole coal of the glebe could easily be
wrought. Finding, it is believed, this to be the case, an offer was
made on behalf of the Duke of Hamilton to purchase the coal and
other minerals within the glebe. Doubts and difficulties having
been started as to the legality of a sale, the transaction has not as
yet been carried into effect.
The abstract question, as to the power of an absolute sale, seems
not to have been hitherto expressly decided, yet, by analogy to
other decided cases, it does not appear to be a question attended
with any serious difficulty. Could the heritors and presbytery be
convinced of this, a considerable increase might be obtained to
the value of the living.
The stipend is 16 chalders of grain, and L. 25, 16s. 5d. in
money.
There is one Seceding chapel in the parish, belonging to the
Associate Synod, which was built in the year 177 J. The stipend
of the minister amounts to L. l>2^per annum. With regard to
this congregation (which owed its existence to the violent intru-
sion of Mr Wells) I may remark, that, although still in a state of
BERTRAM SHOTTS. 633
secession, they have, nevertheless, all along consistently maintain-
ed the principle of an Establishment, and, of course, cherish a
friendly feeling toward the mother church.
The number of families who adhere to the Established Church
is 457, and the number of persons of all ages attending the church
of Shotts is fully 800. Our average number of communicants is
nearly 500. The amount of church collections yearly may be
stated at L. 27. The Seceding chapel is attended by 150 fami-
lies, and the number of sittings let is about 500. Those belonging
to the United Secession church are 125 families; of the remaining
part of the population, 10 families are Roman Catholics, 5 Came-
ronians, 2 Episcopalians, and 1 Unitarian.
Education. — The total number of schools in the parish is 6.
Of these, 3 are endowed, and 3 unendowed. There are none
supported by societies, but one by individual subscription. The
branches of education which are taught are, Greek, Latin, English,
geography, writing, and arithmetic. The salary of the parochial
schoolmaster is L. 34, 4s. 4d. : his fees may amount to L. 23 :
and his other emoluments to L. 18.
I am not aware that there are any of the young between six and fif-
teen years of age who cannot read or write, although there are a few
adults in that unfortunate state of ignorance. A school is much
required for Omoa Works, where there is a population of at least
260 souls. They are at a considerable distance from any place of
instruction.
Literature. — There are two circulating libraries in the parish.
In the library belonging to the Shotts Iron-works, there is a large
and excellent assortment of books.
Charitable and other Institutions. — There is no savings bank in
the parish, but we have it in contemplation to establish, in a very
short time, an agency here in connexion with the National Se-
curity's Savings Bank in Glasgow. I have been endeavouring to
enlighten the people on this most important subject, by means of
the circulation of pamphlets and otherwise ; and I have little doubt
but that all the working-classes will gladly become depositors when-
ever the opportunity is afforded them.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons
who receive parochial aid is 60, and the sum allotted to each per
week may be stated to be Is. 2d. The proportion of that sum
arising from church collections is L. 15. A legacy was left to
the poor of this parish some years ago, the annual interest of which
634 LANARKSHIRE.
amounts to L.I 1. I am glad to have it in my power to state that,
generally speaking, there is a spirit of independence amongst the
poorer classes, which causes them to refrain as long as possible from
asking parochial relief; such relief being considered as very de-
grading.
Fairs. — In virtue of a <£ warrand granted by James VII., anno
1685, to the Duke of Hamilton, for two yearly fairs and a weekly
mercat at the Kirk of Shotts," there are two fairs held in the
parish every year, one on the third Tuesday of June, old style,
and the other on the third Tuesday of November, old style. The
locality chosen for the said fairs is somewhat mal a propos, being
immediately adjoining the church. The chief business done at
these markets is the buying and selling of horses and cattle.
Inns, &fc. — There are 16 public-houses in the parish. Many of
these, however, are chiefly supported by travellers on the great roads
between Glasgow and Edinburgh. Unquestionably, if we had
fewer alehouses, we would have less intemperance, and were these
shut on the Sabbath, there would be less desecration of the Lord's
day, but still, all circumstances considered, it cannot be said that
drunkenness prevails to any great extent among us.
Fuel — The fuel which is used here is coal, peat being rarely
seen in the parish. Indeed there is no inducement to dig in the
mosses, as a cart of coal weighing 12 cwt. can be purchased at the
Duke "of Hamilton's pit for the small sum of 2s. This, however,
is an inferior kind of parrot coal, but the ashes are considered very
valuable as manure.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
There is a very marked contrast between the state of the pa-
rish as it now exists, and as it is represented in the last Statisti-
cal Account.
A large proportion of those lands which were then unreclaimed,
and which are there spoken of as unimprovable, is now under til-
lage, and bears astonishingly good crops. The price of labour is now
much higher and a better and more ready market can be obtained for
all kinds of provisons. Much advantage has of late years been de-
rived by the inhabitants of the parish from the Shotts Iron-works,
— the employment which is there given to the active and well-behav-
ed, and the money which is there circulated weekly, may well call
forth a desire on the part of us all for their prosperity and extension.
It cannot be too strongly pressed upon the proprietors of the
parish, that draining and planting are improvements of paramount
OLD MONKLAND. 635
'importance in Shotts. It is admitted by competent judges, that
the soil is in general very good ; why then should the benefits of
such ameliorations be withheld ?• With regard to the reclaiming
of waste land, the experiment has been tried again and again, and
the result has invariably been, that the expense of such improve-
ment, when judiciously made, is repaid in a few years, and that
the land is ever after able to stand the regular routine of cropping.
The industry of the working classes here is amply recompensed ;
and were they more provident of their earnings, their happiness
and comfort would be much increased.
August 1839.
PARISH OF OLD OR WEST MONKLAND *
PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. WILLIAM THOMSON, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — THE ancient name of the Monklands is unknown ; but
it appears from the Chartulary of the Monks of Newbottle, for
many years lost, but recovered by Patrick Modart, about 1462,
and now in the Advocates' Library, that the present was the po-
pularly received name of this district before 1323. The etymo-
logy is not difficult. The lands of Monkland, formerly constitut-
ing a third part of the domains of the Abbacy of Newbottle, were
for many ages the property of a company of Cistertian or Bernar-
dine monks belonging to that abbey, and hence the very obvious
appellation, the " Monklands," was given to all their ecclesiasti-
cal domains in this quarter of the country. When this extensive
district was afterwards divided and erected into two parishes, one
of these parishes was called Old or West Monkland, and the other
New or East Monkland, and they are now popularly known by
the names of the Old and New Monklands.
Boundaries, Extent, fyc. — The parish of Old Monkland is a re-
markably fine, extensive, rather flat and low-lying district, extend-
ing along the eastern bank of the river Clyde for many miles, im-
mediately after leaving the highly ornamental and picturesque
scenery of Bothwell and Hamilton, and before it reaches the great
* Drawn up by the Rev. William Patrick, author of a Description of the Plants
of Lanarkshire, &c.
636
LANARKSHIRE.
commercial emporium of the west, the city of Glasgow. " A
stranger," says the Rev. Mr Bower in the last Statistical Report,
" is struck with the view of this parish. It has the appearance of
an immense garden." The old parish constitutes by far the lowest,
richest, and most interesting portion of the Monklands, and hence
the remark of the same authority, " the monks, who usually fixed
upon a pleasant situation, had a residence here." Perhaps their
superior skill in agriculture and gardening rendered the places
they fixed upon at once more pleasant and valuable ; but, had that
able and diligent minister of the GospeHived to the present day, he
would have been constrained to admit, that the monks were for
once deceived in their choice, for, although the surface of Old
Monkland is the most valuable, still a very large proportion of the
mineral stores which supply her furnaces and other public works
are brought from the New Monkland. The true value of the re-
spective districts at the present day is therefore much on the side
of the east parish.
From Monkland House in the south-east, to Clyde Iron-works
in the north-west, the parish of Old Monkland is about 10 miles
in length. The widest place, from the bridge over the Calder at
Carnbroe ta the lodge near Glenboig in the Haggmuir, is about
4^ miles. Between Calder Iron-works and the lands of Rochsil-
loch the distance is only about 4 furlongs, while in other places
the parish varies in breadth from 2 to 3 miles. Old Monkland is
bounded on the north by the parishes of New Monkland, Cadder,
and barony of Glasgow ; on the east, by part of the parishes of
New Monkland and Bothwell ; on the south, by Bothwell ; and
on the west, by the river Clyde, which separates it from Cambus-
lang and Rutherglen.
Meteorology. — The average ranges of the thermometer and ba-
rometer in this district of the country are pretty well known from
its vicinity to Glasgow, where registers are regularly kept. But
perhaps, the following statement of facts, relating to the prevailing
winds, and certain other changes and peculiarities of the weather,
may be not less new than interesting. The particulars have been
carefully selected and arranged from a general journal of the
weather, kept by the late William Mack, Esq. of Fruitfield, and
submitted to the author's inspection by Mr Mack's son, John
Mack, Esq. of Bellefield. The observations are daily, and the
period included is from January 1799 to June 1826 — a period of
ubout twenty-seven years.
The following is an account of the prevailing winds from January
OLD MONK LAND. 637
1800 to January 1820, including a period of 20 years, or 7304
days. Only the four cardinal points, with the four intermediate
points of the compass, are given. When the winds were'vuriable,
they are set down for the day in the direction in which they gene-
rally blew. With these qualifications, the other results may be
relied on. The letters at the top denote the points of the com-
pass, and the figures below the number of days in which the wind
blew in that direction. The periods of observation are divided
into two portions, namely, from 1800 to 1810, and from 1810 to
1820. Observations are also given for each particular month.
Days. N. S. E. W. S.W. S.E. N.E. N.W.
Jan. First 10 years winds blew, 5 55 63 88 32 49 8 12
Second do. . 3 15 102 144 23 5 5 11
Feb. First 10 years, .3 29 39 116 24 35 6 30
Second do. 0 15 42 176 25 6 7 11
Mar. First 10 years, . 2 12 120 91 22 22 9 32
Second do. 2 7 8 196 12 4 5 3
April First 10 years, . 6 34 72 101 23 10 10 44
Second do. . 1 16 112 127 15 8 7 14
May First 10 years, . 10 17 77 87 33 9 12 65
Second do. . 0 8 24 146 15 2 2 13
June First 10 years, . 3 23 52 100 25 9 3 85
Second do. 5 21 83 146 14 1 1 37
July First 10 years, . 3 21 68 109 18 23 6 62
Second do. . 1 18 44 202 20 7 2 17
Aug. First 10 years, . 1 29 40 156 42 18 4 20
Second do. . 2 14 44 209 22 6 3 10
Sept. First 10 years, . 8 36 45 110 28 24 4 49
Second do. . 8 32 50 141 27 18 9 15
Oct. First 10 years, . 4 24 61 110 27 24 4 56
Second do. . 4 32 67 122 28 15 12 30
Nov. First 10 years* . 6 19 67 104 16 24 18 46
Second do. . 11 23 62 106 42 20 13 15
Dec. First 10 years, . 2 24 44 124 29 45 4 34
Second do. . 6 24 84 138 24 12 12 12
Total days, 96 548 1643 3149 586 393 166 723
The following table will give the sum total for the particular
months for the whole 20 years included between 1800 and 1820.
N. S. E. W. S.W. S.E. N.E. N.W.
January, . 8 70 165 232 55 54-13 23
February, „ 3 44 81 292 49 41 13 41
March, . 4 19 201 287 34 26 14 35
April, . 7 50 184 228 38 18 17 58
May, . 10 25 201 233 48 11 14 78
June, . 8 44 135 246 39 10 4 122
July, . 4 39 112 311 38 30 8 79
August, . 3 43 84 365 64 24 7 30
September, . 16 68 95 251 55 39 13 64
October, . 8 56 128 232 55 39 16 86
November, . 17 42 129 210 58 44 31 61
December, . 8 48 128 265 53 57 16 46
Days wind in 20 years, 96 548 1643 3149 586 393 166 723
638 LANARKSHIRE.
In 20 years, or 7304 days, the winds were 4458 in a westerly
direction, i. e. including the west, north-west, and south-west; in
an easterly direction 2202 days, including east, north-east, and
south-east ; 548 south, and 96 only north. The following summary
will bring the results more immediately under the eye of the reader :
Winds westerly, . . . 4458 days.
Do. easterly, . . . 2202
Do. south, . . . 548
Do. north, . . 96
Total days, . 7304
In 620 days of January weather there were 227 days of frost,
and in 564 days of February weather 134 days of frost. In 1184
days, there were 361 frosty days. They stood thus with regard
to the winds.
Days. N. S. E. W. S.W. S.E. N.E. N.W.
January, . 2 17 123 27 4 30 6 18
February, 3 15 54 39 4 10 0 9
Total days frost, 5 32 177 66 8 40 6 27
The average number of frosty days for each month of January
for twenty years was 11.7; in February for the same period, 6.14
days. In November and December the days of frost were as fol-
lows : —
Days. N. S. E. W. S.W S.E. N.E. N.W.
November, . 3 2 72 18 3 6 7 12
December, . 3 8 111 54 3 13 0 19
Total days frost, 6 10 183 72 6 19 7 31
The total days frost in November for the above number of years
was 120 days, which, at an average, gives six days of frost for each
month of November. The number of frosty days in December
for a similar period was 211, which gives 10.1 days of frost for
each month of December in twenty years. For the four winter
months, November, December, January, and February, the results
will stand thus : —
N. S. E. W. S.W. S.E. N.E N.W.
November and December, . 6 10 183 72 6 16 7 31
January and February, . 5 32 1 77 66 8 40 6 27
Total days frost in 4 months, 11 42 360 138 14 56 13 58
Thus, in the period of twenty years, out of 2404 days of winter
weather, there were 692 days of frost, which gives on an average
of years 33.24 days of frost for the four winter months as above.
It. will also be observed, that 422 of these days of frost were
from the east, while 210 were from the west, which leaves only
4
OLD MONKLAND. 639
60 days for the winds and days of frost from the remaining points
of the compass. The following table will bring the above results
more in detail under the eye of the reader. The first column of
figures contains the number of days collectively for twenty years
for the accompanying months : the second column includes the
number of days of 'frost in the months of those years; and the
third the average for each month.
Average annual days
Days for 20 years Days frost for 20 years. for each month.
November, . 600
December, . 620
January, - 620
February, . 564
120 . . 6.
211 . . 10.1
227 . . 11.7
134 . • 6.14
N.
S.
E.
W.
S.W.
S.E.
November, .
—
1
14
5
—
3
December, .
1
20
13
1
6
January,
1
2
36
28
11
8
February, .
1
2
22
35
6
6
2404 692 33.24
The number of days in which it snowed in the respective months
of November, December, January, and February, during the whole
of the twenty years, with the directions in which the wind blew, is
as follows : —
N.'E. N.W.
— 2
— 2
3
6
2 6 92 81 18 23 — 13
In 2404 days of winter weather during twenty years, it snowed
only 235 days. The following table, drawn up on the same prin-
ciple as that showing the number of days of frost, will exhibit readi-
ly the general results : —
Average annual days snow
Days for 20 years. Days do. snow. for each month.
November, . 600 25 . 1. 5
December, . 620 . 43 * . 2. 3
January, . 620 . 89 . 4-14
February, 564 . 78 *K 3.18
2405 235 10.40
In the month of March during the twenty years, there were in
all 100 days of snow, while in April there were only 48. The
average number of snowy days in March is, therefore, 5, while in
April it is only 2.8. Most of these, however, are only blasty days;
but sometimes heavy snows fall in April, as 25th April 1812, and
8th and 9th April 1818; and in 1809, on the evening of Monday
the 29th May, a great snow began to fall, which covered the earth
for three days. Wind east and west. The weather was broken
by a good deal of thunder on the 16th and 17th of May.
640
LANARKSHIRE.
Among the popular errors of the jlay, we may mention the
ready credence given by many persons to the legendary powers of
St Swithen, a watery saint, who, if it rains upon his day, (the
15th of July,) is said to " keep his word," and squeezes the ele-
ments of their aqueous contents so effectually, that it rains for six
weeks after. As reasoning will not at all times correct supersti-
tions, which are the worst of popular follies, we may try the weight
of facts, and we shall see that, at least for the first twenty years of
the nineteenth century of the Christian era, St Swithen had either
lost, or voluntarily consented to give up, his power. Instead of six
weeks or forty-two days after 15th July, I have allowed forty- seven
days, which carries us to the end of August. For each of the
first twenty years of the century the facts are as follow : —
Wet days,
Wind, in 6 weeks.
July 15th.
1800, Fine, sunny, -
1801, Warm, showery,
1802, Warm, mild,
1803, Very warm, sunny,
1804, Warm, drought,
1805, Very warm, sunny,
1806, Warm, thunder showers,
1807, Warm, showery,
1808, Great drought, warm,
1809, Mild day,
1810, Good dry day,
1811, Dry and cold,
1812, Warm and dry,
1813, Very warm,
1814, Dark, mild,
1815, Gentle showers,
1816, Wet day,
1817, Frost morn, warm day,
1818, Warm, cloudy,
1819, Very warm, sunny,
s.w.
4
W.
8
W.
17
W.
14
E. & S.E.
19
Var. wind.
18
S.
13
W.
17
E.
22
N.W.
22
W.
18
W.
25
W.
8
W.
4
W.
21
Var. wind.
10
E.
15
Var. wind.
19
S.
8
S.E.
7
Weather about 15th July.
Warm and dry.
Warm, showery.
Frost, rain, hail, 12, 13, 14.
Fine about 15th.
Fine weather.
Fine weather.
Thunder showers.
Warm, showery.
Very dry.
14th, wettish — -rest dry.
Warm, mostly dry.
Wettish.
Warm and dry.
Heavy rain 16th.
Dark, dry.
Dry with showers.
Cold, wet.
Cold, frosty.
Warm, showers.
Cloudy, warm.
It would appear that it rained during the above years on five
different occasions on St Swithen's day; but instead of the 15th
of July being followed on each occasion with six weeks of rain,
there were only 63 days of rain in thirty weeks.
It thundered only on 62 out of 7304 days. There was no thunder
in January, February, September, or December. In the other
months the number of days, with the direction of the winds which
brought the thunder, is as follows :—
N.
March, ,
April, ,
May, .
June, .
July, .
August,
S.
E.
W.
S.W.
S.E.
.
1
2
1
2
3
1
1
1
—
2
2
__
__
2
4
1
1
6
— P-
3
2
1
—
N.E. N.W.
Variable.
I
3
3
5
7
OLD iMONKLAND. 641
N. S. E. W. S.W. S.E- N.E. N.W. Variable.
October, .___-_ 1 __ _ 1
November, — — — 2 — — — — —
0 4 14 10 5 7 — 1 20
Out of the 6*2 days thunder, 33 occurred in July and August,
viz. 19 in the month of July, and 14 in the month of August.
The days of thunder here set down include only those electric dis-
charges which were heard in the district. There might be thun-
der in the night-time which was not heard.
The number of days in which it actually rained, in whole or in
part, for each month during twenty years, (as above,) is as fol-
lows : —
Days of wind.
N.
S.
E.
W.
S.W.
S.E.
N.E.
N.W.
Variable.
January,
19
43
8
4
1
4
6
February,
__
16
7
64
15
6
__
2
5
March,
13
9
69
11
1
__
1
11
April,
_ _
20
19
43
4
__
__
3
5
May,
_
12
35
62
14
3
,
8
17
June,
4
19
12
64
13"
4
.^
7
13
July,
1
22
24
75
13
5
19
23
August,
23
23
108
15
2
1
4
18
September,
3
34
29
47
18
7
8
10
October,
1
23
7
70
22
5
2
23
13
November,
_ _
17
8
55
10
2
_
9
15
December,
4
2
36
8
2
4
21
Total winds witb davs rain
for 20 years, - 9222175 736151 41 4 92 157
The total number of days on which rain fell over the space of
twenty years was 1587, which gives on an average 79.7 days of
rain per annum, or more than two months out of the twelve, of
constant uninterrupted rain. The total days of rain, frost, snow,
and hail, for twenty years, was as under :
Days.
Rain, . 1587
Frost, 827
Snow, . 320
Hail, . 30
Total for twenty years, 2764 of rain, frost, snow, and hail.
This gives about 138 days per annum for the onfalls as above,
and about 227 for days on which there is no onfall, or, in other
words, 2764 stormy or wet days in a period of 7304 days, and du-
ring the same period 4540 good days. We do not therefore de-
serve to be so much pitied for our wet weather, as some of our
neighbours believe us to be.
Hydrography. — The Clyde is the principal river in the district.
It enters this parish at Daldowie, forming its western boundary,
and leaves it at Clyde Iron-works. The tide reaches till within
a little distance of the parish, but no part of it is here navigable.
(J42 LANARKSHIRE.
The North Calder is a considerable stream, with fine wooded
banks. It rises near the farm of Braco, in the parish of Shotts,
and falls into the Clyde at Daldowie. There are various other
small burns, which are all lost either mediately or immediately in
the Clyde. There are several lochs in the parish, but their banks
are tame, and they have no pictifresque beauty. Bishop Loch
covers a space of about 80 acres ; Woodend Loch, 50 acres ; and
Lochend, 40 acres. Very large pike are sometimes caught in
these lochs, occasionally as heavy as 12J Ibs.
Geology and Mineralogy. — The Monklands are famous for
their coal, iron, and other valuable mineral stores. These, as in
other places, evidently lie in basins, the thickest seams above the
lime, and the inferior seams of coal intermixed with, or lying be-
tween, various basins of limestone. The coals wrought in the
Monklands are all above the lime, which is at a great depth here,
but in proportion as they approach the lime, as it comes to the
surface, the lower and inferior seams of coal are only found. The
following are the principal seams of coal known to exist in this
district, i. e. of workable coal.
1st. The upper coal, coarse and seldom workable. Its average
distance above the ell-coal is from 14 to 16 fathoms.
2d. The Ell or Mossdale coal, 3 to 4 feet thick, of inferior es-
timation in this parish, and generally too thin to work ; but in
some places a thick coal, and of excellent quality.
•3d. The Pyotshaw, or rough -ell, from 3 to 5 feet thick, and
from 7 to 10 fathoms below the ell -coal.
4th. The Main coal. It often unites with the above, and forms
one seam, as at Drumpellier, in this parish. These two seams
are thus sometimes in actual contact, and in other instances se-
parated by a wide interval of 6 or 7 fathoms.
5th. Humph coal, seldom thick enough to be workable in this
parish, and generally interlaid with fragments of freestone, about
10 fathoms below Main coal.
6th. Splint coal. About 4 fathoms below the Humph, and of
very superior quality. It varies from 2 to 5 feet in thickness, and
is mostly used for smelting iron. This seam, when of any consi-
derable thickness, is justly esteemed when got by the proprietors
here a great prize.
7th. Little coal, always below splint, the distance varying from
3 fathoms to 6 feet. It is from 3 to 3^ feet in thickness, and is
a free sulphury coal of inferior quality.
OLD MONKLAND. 643
8th. The Virtue-well, or sour-milk coal, from 2 to 4 feet thick,
occurs from 26 to 28 fathoms below the splint.
9th. The Kiltongue coal lies 22 fathoms below the Virtue-well,
and like it is from 2 to 4 feet in thickness.
10th. The Drumgray coal lies 6 fathoms below the Kiltongue,
and perhaps from 60 to 100 fathoms above the first or upper band
of limestone. It is seldom more than 18 or 20 inches thick.
There are besides these ten seams about twenty-three smaller
seams between them, none of which are of a workable thickness.
The total thickness of the coal measures above the lime may be
about 775 feet.
This large and important coal-field is much intersected with
dikes, and a knowledge of these is a knowledge of the strata, and
of the manner in which they are affected by them. The first
dike that throws in'the Monkland seams on the south, runs through
the lands of Rosehall, Tannochside, Britishholm, and Calder
Park, where it is seen in the burn, and then through the lands of
Mount Vernon, where it throws down the coal, and throws in the
large field of Rosehall, Birthwood, Britishholm, and Mount Ver-
non. 2. To the north of the above, a large dike comes from
Newarthill, and throws in the coal in Faskin, Palace Craig, Kairn-
hill, Garnturk, Lower Coats, Drumpellier, Keelhill, and termi-
nates at Easter House. This terminates the Monkland field to
the west. 3. Still farther to the north, a third dike enters the
parish on the east, at Kippsbyre, passes the lands of Raw .by
Sommerlee Iron- Works, by the south side of Gartsherrie estate,
and then running towards Bishop Loch, it throws in Kippsbyre,
Gargunnock, and Gartsherrie fields. The splint coal is found as
far north as Gartcloss, after which it and its accompanying strata
do not come in again in that direction. 4. Another downthrow
dike to the north passes through the estate of Gartsherrie, and
throws in the Gartgill and Gartcloss fields. This forms the
northern boundary of the Monkland seams,
The following will afford a pretty correct idea of the statistics
of the coal workings in this district. The coal pits now in actual
operation, or now sinking, with their depths, and the seams of
coal found in them, are nearly as follows, — leaving it, however, to
be understood, that since the following list was taken, various new
pits have been begun, so that every week almost brings with it
some new improvements and new workings.
Gartstterrie. — It is of no consequence where we begin, provided
64 i LANARKSHIRE.
we give an accurate idea of all the principal workings. The suc-
cession of strata at Gartsherrie is as follows : —
Coal. Other rocks.
Ft. In. Fath. Ft. In.
1. Coal (first coal), 20 000
2. Sandstone and shale, 00 800
3. Coal (2d), 33 000
4. Sandstone and shale, 00 330
5. Coal (3d), 40 000
6. Sandstone and shale, 00 730
7. Coal (4th), 14 000
8. Sandstone and shale, 00 730
9. Coal (5th), 3 4 000
1. The Gartcloss mine, or inclined plane, is 30 fathoms deep,
and contains the Pyotshaw, Main, and Splint coals, and they are
now sinking to the Virttiewell and Kiltongue. The Ell-coal,
which is 8 fathoms above the Pyotshaw, seems to be off here, but
they begin to work it at Mount Vernon, and away west to Glas-
gow.
2. Gartgill, (Mr Colt), 40 fathoms deep, has the three main
seams. The Main and Pyotshaw are within 10 inches of each
other, and form a working of 12 feet.
3. Gartsherrie, No. 1, 40 fathoms, all the seams; No. 2, 30
fathoms, all the seams except the Ell-coal, which is here cropt off.
4. Gunnie, (Messrs Baird,) No. 1, 27 fathoms, all the coals
except the Ell. No. 2, now sinking 50 fathoms, all the coals.
5. Greenhill, (William Baillie). All the coals except the ell,
about 18 fathoms to the splint.
•6. Drumpellier (Mr Buchanan,) Nos. 3, 4, 5 and 6, varying
from 36 to 70 fathoms. In one of these pits the Pyotshaw and
main coals are wrought together, at an aggregate thickness of 1\
feet. The splint here is very thin, only from 26 to 40 inches.
7. Calder Iron-works, — 2 coal-pits, one 100 fathoms, the deep-
est in the parish ; other pit 40 fathoms, all the coals.
8. Palace Craig, 2 pits, one 40 fathoms, another 70 fathoms,
all the seams. The upper ironstone, 18 inches in thickness, is
about 24 fathoms above the ell coal. The succession of strata
in the intervening space are as follows :
Coals Ironstone. Other rocks.
Ft In. Ft. In. Fath. Ft. In.
1. Black ironstone, .0 01 0 0 0 0
2. Shale with thin bands
of ironstone, 00000 6
3. Sandstone and shale, 00 00410
4. Coal interlaced with, • •
stone, 2 10 000
5. Sandstone. .00 0001
6. Shale, . 00 0 0 0 0 0
OLD MONKLAND. 645
Coals. Ironstone. Other rocks.
Ft. In. Ft. In. Path. Ft. In.
7. Black shale and clay, 00 0 0 0 3 10
8. Coal, ..08 00 000
9. Slaty clay, .00 00 008
10. Fire-clay, .00 00014
11. White fire-clay, 00 00020
12. Sandy fakes, &c. 0 0 00040
13. Sandstone, .00 00 010
14. Shale and ironstone, 00 0 10 000
15. Black tull, .00 00006
16. Ironstone, .00 16000
17. Fire-clay, .00 00017
18. Black tull, .00 00014
19. Shale and fakes, 00 00206
20. Shale and tull, 0 0 0 0 0 1 10
21. Sandstone and shale, 00 00057
22. Coal, ..02 00000
23. Shale and clay, 0 • 0 00 072
24. Sandstone, '.00 00 160
25. Shale and clay, 00 00140
26. Ell-coal, 2 10 00 000
9. Faskin. It was at this place that the coal was first opened
up. The Lady Anne seam of coal derives its name from Lady
Anne Stirling, wife of Mr A. Stirling. In like manner we may
here mention, that Pyotshaw is the name of a place in Cairnhill,
Kiltongue is a place near Braidenhill, and Virtuewell is on the es-
tate of Mr Nisbet of Cairnhill, in New Monkland. Engine pit,
75 fathoms, began 1790, got coal 1791. The splint or Lady
Anne coal was first found here.
10. Whiteflat, 2 pits, 40 fathoms. The journal of the pit No.
2 is as follows.
Coal. Ironstone. Other rocks.
Ft. In. Ft. In. Fath. Ft. In.
1. Alluvium, . 00 00 400
2. Sandstone fakes, &c.
3. Ell-coal,
4. Shale,
5. Coal,
6. Fire-clay,
7. Fakes, . p$
8. Sandstone,
9. Shale, . ,,'.'
10. Pyotshaw coal,
11. To the splint coal,
12. Splint coal,
00 00 520
21 00 000
00 00 0 4 10
12 00 000
00 00 020
00 00 319
00 00 120
00 00 050
32 00 000
00 00 26 0 0
36 00 000
13. To black band ironstone, 00 00 13 0 0
14. Black band ironstone, .00 16 000
1 1. Keelhill. The oldest working pit in the parish, and has put
out more coals, perhaps, than any other in the west of Scotland,
having been in active operation for the last thirty years. The pit
is upwards of 60 fathoms. The Pyotshaw and main seams are
close together, and form an aggregate working of from 9 to 10
feet.
LANARK. T t
12000
0 0 27 0 0
40000
00600
40000
646 LANARKSHIRE.
12. Netherhouse. Pits from 30 to 40 fathoms, with the three
main seams, Pyotshaw, main, and splint.
13. Easter House. This is the north-west boundary of the
Monkland seams. The pits are about 40 fathoms. Three seams
are found, but the splint only is wrought. The metals here are
much deranged, and the coal much injured with the whin.
14. Mount Vernon. Pit (in Barony,) 70 fathoms. Two
seams, Pyotshaw and main. The splint is from 12 to 15 fathoms
below, but is so thin that it is not worth working. The strata
here are as follow :
Coal. Other rocks.
Ft. In. Path. Ft. In.
1. Sandstone, &c. 0 0 30 0 0
2. Coal (1st,)
3. Sandstone, &c.
4. Coal(2d,)
5. Sandstone and shale,
6. Coal (3d,)
15. Rosehall. Two pits in one shanking. Deepest 26 fa-
thoms to main, and 16 fathoms to splint; in all, upwards of 40
fathoms. The succession of strata here is as follows :
Coal. Other rocks.
Ft. In. Fath. Ft. In.
1. Coal (1st,) ..18 000
2. Sandstone and shale, 00 700
3. Coal(2d,) ..36 000
4. Sandstone and shale, 0 0300
5. Coal (3d,) ..32 000
6. Sandstone and shale, 00 700
7. Coal (4th,) ..10 000
8. Sandstone and shale, 00 500
9. Coal (5th,) ..44 000
The enterprising tenants of the Rosehall colliery are Addie
and Miller. I have been favoured by Mr Addie with the num-
ber of men employed at this work. The additional number em-
ployed at other works is very great. At Rosehall, there are, in
constant occupation, 117 colliers, 2 bottomers, 3 pit-roads men,
2 pit-head men, 20 labourers, 2 engine-men, 2 smiths, 1 wright,
4 carters, 2 sawyers, 1 manager, 1 clerk, — in all 157.
Ironstone. — The Monkland ironstones are, economically speak-
ing, of immense value, and are the principal source of the wealth
and bustle in which this prosperous district is at present so agree-
ably involved, for if it were not" for the ironstone, not one-half of
the coals could have been wrought out. The following are the
principal bands of the Monkland ironstone.
1. The Upper Black Band. It lies about 24 fathoms above
the ell-coal, as indicated in the succession of strata, page 644. It
3
OLD MONKLAND. fi47
is of very local occurrence, like all the ironstones, and has only
been found worth working at Palace- Craig. It is of inferior qua-
lity, and only about 18 inches thick.
2. The Black-Band, also called Mushet's Black- Band, from the
name of the person who first wrought it to any extent. This is
the great staple commodity for the supply of the iron-market,
and when found to any extent, is a certain source of wealth to the
proprietor. Its average depth below the splint is about 15 or 16
fathoms, and it varies in thickness from 14 to 18 inches, and
occupies an area of from 8 to 10 square miles.
3. Airdrie Hill Black Band. In this property, which is in New
Monkland, there is a band of ironstone varying from 2 to 4 feet
in thickness, lying about 3 fathoms below the black-band, or
Mushet's Band. It is found only in part of the lands of Airdrie
Hill, and is by far the most local of all the ironstones.
The black band of ironstone is thrown in by a dike formerly
mentioned, which runs in a north-west direction through the lands
of Woodhall Cathedral Park, the lands of Carnbroe and Shaw-
head, and on to Kirkwood and Keelhill. There is no ironstone
to the south and west, except a very little to north of Carnbroe.
A branch dike comes through the lands of Dundyvan, to the south-
west side of which none of the black-band is found. This valuable
mineral is chiefly found in the lands of Monkland House, Faskin,
Carnbroe, Garturk, and Lower Coats, and terminates in the lands
of Dundyvan. The boundaries of the district in which these Vul-
canic treasures lie, are nearly as follows : It is bounded on the
west by a straight line drawn from Sommerlee House to Kip's
Bridge ; from that to Glenmavis on the north ; from Glenmavis
still northward, and in a south-east direction to the lands of Arden
in New Monkland ; from Arden to Clerkstone in a southern di-
rection ; and then from Clerkstone to Monkland House, &c. The
principal ironstone pits now in operation in Old Monkland are as
follow : —
1. Raw. Splint-coal and black-band ; pit from 27 to 30 fa-'
thorns.
2. Locks. Pit 20 fathoms, same band.
3."AKairnhill, two ironstone pits, one 30, another 28 fathoms.
Coal, 40 fathoms.
4. Palace- Craig, two pits, one 40 fathoms, another 70 fathoms.
The upper black-band occurs here.
648 LANARKSHIRE.
5. Garturk or Wilderness two pits, 24 fathoms deep, contain
the black-band. The upper coal is here wrought out.
6. Faskin, four ironstone pits, from 10 to 14 fathoms.
7. Monkland, one ironstone pit.
8. Calder Ironworks. Two ironstone pits are now wrought for
these works on Garturk estate, 36 fathoms deep. There is a
coal-pit here 100 fathoms; the deepest in the parish.
9. Whiteflat or Whifflet, three ironstone pits, and two coal-
pits, containing the splint and black-band. Pits 40 fathoms deep.
10. Drumpellier. Ironstone pit here 40 fathoms. Nos. 1 and
2 are wrought out. The ironstone fines off at pit No. 2, averag-
ing only two or three inches in thickness. " It is seen," (as the
workmen express it,) " and that is all."
The coal and ironstone pits in the parish of New Monkland
are still more numerous ; and it is from them that the iron-works
in Old Monkland receive their chief supplies. The great iron
establishments at Gartsherrie, Sommerlee, Calder, Dundyvan, and
Chapelhall, receive a great quantity of ironstone from Rochsilloch,
the property of Sir William Alexander. On this property at the
time this account was taken up, there were eleven pits, two mines,
and two open casts, besides three pits shanking. The black-band
here yields from 30 to 40 per cent, of iron. One acre at 8s. 6d.
per calcined ton of lordship will yield L. 1000 to the landlord.
The output on Rochsilloch alone is 4500 tons per month, and the
annual income to the proprietor is about L. 12,600 per annum,
on a property, which, if let for tillage, would yield only a few hun-
dreds per annum.
Quarries. — The freestone quarries in the parish of Old Monk-
land are chiefly as follows : —
1. Langlone Quarry. This is a red freestone, which lies above
all the coals, and runs in a compact body through Drumpellier
and Britishholm by Mainhill. It is thrown off by a hitch at
Kirkwood, but soon comes on again. It then goes on by Mount
Vernon and on to Westmuir. It is thrown in by two dikes, which
are downthrows. This rock is about 50 feet thick. The same
rock is wrought at Mainhill and Haggmill.
2. Souterhouse and Garturk. A fine white freestone, supposed
to be a plie of rock beneath the red sandstone, cropping out to the
north. It is from 30 to 40 feet thick. The whole of this free-
stone is consumed at Calder works.
3. Sommerlee Quarry. A white freestone of a somewhat infe-
OLD MONKLAND. 649
rior quality, supposed to lie below the ironstone. It is used chiefly
by the Sommerlee Company.
4. Coats Quarry. A white pavement, which is the roof of the
main coal.
5. Coats and Pottry Quarry. The white roof of the main coal.
It lies between the Pyotshaw and main coals, and is about 20 feet
thick.
6. Coatsdike Quarry. A white freestone between the ironstone
and Virtuewell coal. Belongs to the Messrs Baird. It is from
40 to 70 feet thick. There are a few small quarries besides.
The whinstone quarries are : — 1. Rawiiien, a hard blue whin
or greenstone. It occurs below the Kiltongue coal. The metals
dip south from a trouble.
2. Easterhill. This greenstone lies above the splint-coal. It
is what the workmen term poky, and does not break clear. No
lime is found in the parish of Old Monkland.
The botany and zoology of the parish exhibit no peculiarity of
character.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
The Monklands were anciently a part of the Abbacy and Lord-
ship of Newbottle, to which they were mortified by Malcolm IV.
The original charter may be seen in Anderson's Diplom. Scot.
These lands formed about a third part of the territorial posses-
sions of the monks of Newbottle, who had also the lands of Car-
myle on the Clyde. From their chartularies we learn that they
maintained a large grange, or farming establishment, at Drum-
pellier, then named Dunpelder. For the purpose of keeping up
a communication between their eastern and western possessions,
they obtained grants of free passage ; a right confirmed to them
by Alexander II., who allowed them during their passages com-
mon pasture for their cattle, for one night, in every part except
the growing corn or meadows. It appears from Acta Parl. iii.
513, that the lands of Monkland were granted free to Mark Kerr,
commendator of the Monastery of Newbottle, about 1587. This
individual was created Baron Newbottle 1591, and Earl of Lothian
1606. The Boyds of Kilmarnock afterwards obtained the north-
ern parts of the Monklands, called the Barony of Medrox, con-
tiguous to an ancient seat of the family — the tower of Banheath,
which still bears their arms. About 1602, the greater part of the
Monklands fell into the hands of Sir Thomas Hamilton of Binning,
afterwards Lord Binning and Byres, Earl of Melrose, and finally
650 LANARKSHIRE.
first Earl of Haddington. He is described as being a good lawyer
and keen-sighted judge, and concluded a profitable political life
by the accumulation of a vast sum of money, which he wisely vested
in landed property. He discovered a silver mine in the lands of
Ballencrieff, in Linlithgowshire, which he took care to secure by a
charter, including "minera, mineralia, auri, et argenti, inter bondas
terrarum de Ballencreiff." Had he been so fortunate as to secure
in the same manner the minerals in the Monklands, they would
have been more valuable to his descendants than mines of silver
or gold. The Monklands passed from the Haddington family in-
to the hands of the Clellands of Monkland about 1633, and in
1639, they were sold to James, Marquis of Hamilton. The char-
ter is dated 19th November 1639, or the year after the noble
Marquis had sat as Commissioner to the celebrated General
Assembly which met in Glasgow 1638. These territories passed
from the Hamilton family into the hands of the College of Glas-
gow, and thus have become once more the appropriate possession
of a literary community. This purchase was made from Anne,
Duchess of Hamilton, in the reign of Charles II., and included
the patronage and tithes of the subdeanery of Glasgow, and of the
churches of Calder and Monkland ; all of which, except the pa-
tronages of the churches, they retain to this day.
The Monklands were divided into two parishes, according to
Hamilton of Wishaw, in or about 1660, but more probably about
1640. Long before this period, the land had been almost all feued
out to particular heritors, some of whom are very old possessors
of their respective inheritances.
Beyond all the above facts, which are authenticated by existing
documents, there is a tradition, that a certain pilgrim, in order to
do penance for some sin, was obliged to carry a particular stone in
this direction from Glasgow; and when he could bear it no farther
to build a church at his own expense. The weary pilgrim laid
down his burden at the place where the Old Monkland church
stands, and the stone is still to be seen.
Chief Land-owners. — General Pye Douglas of Rosehall; Robert
Buchanan of Drumpellier ; John H. Colt of Gartsherrie ; John
Sligo of Carmyle ; Hugh Bogle of Calderbank ; James M'Call of
Daldowie ; William Dixon of Fa skin ; Theodore Wolrond, Cal-
derpark ; George M. Nisbet of Cairnhill. The estate of Breadies-
holm is also a valuable property.
Parochial Registers. — These consist at present of seventeen
volumes. The oldest legible date is January 24th 1692.
OLD MONKLAND. 651
Antiquities. — The site of the Clyde Iron-works seems to have
been a burying-ground of ancient date. When digging the founda-
tion of the buildings, great quantities of human bones were found
deposited betwixt flag-stones. These stones were so placed, as to
form a cavity of considerable extent, which was covered with a
stone of the same sort. Various earthern urns were found, con-
taining ashes mixed with human bones, on some of which were
evident marks of fire. In 1834, when Mr Bowman, a distinguished
breeder of cattle, was clearing out a plantation on a gravelly hill
near Blair-tummock, two urns, perfectly smooth and of a reddish
colour, were discovered. On the Camp farm, near Bailiestone, in
casting drains, pieces of horse harness, apparently of ancient date,
are frequently turned up.
III. — POPULATION.
The population of this parish in 1755 was only 1813, in 1831
it was 9580. In 1791, the population was 4000, which, since
1755, makes an increase of 2187 in thirty-six years, which is at the
rate of upwards of 60 per annum. In 1801, the population was
4006, which was only 6 of an increase in ten years. In 1811, the
population was 5469, which is an increase of 1463 in ten years, or
at the rate of upwards of 146 per annum. In 1821, the popula-
lation was 6983, which is an increase of 1414 in ten years, or at
the rate of upwards of 141 per annum. The population in 1831
was 9580, which is an increase of 2597 in ten years, which was at
the rate of 259 per annum. The annual increase at present is at
least double that amount. The increase between 1755 and 1791,
as stated in the last report, was " entirely owing to the establish-
ment of manufactures." These seem to have been nearly in a sta-
tionary state from that period till 1811. From that date the coal
and iron trade have been continually advancing, and at the present
moment the parish of Old Monkland is the principal seat of the
iron manufacture in Scotland. In 1831 there were
Inhabited houses, . . 1499 Agriculture — Occupiers 1st class, 49
Families, 1805 2d class, 37
Houses building, - . . 8 Labourers in agriculture, . 92
Houses uninhabited, . 116 Manufacturers, . . 2
Families employed in agriculture, 93 Retail trade and handicraft, . 1441
in trade, manufactures, &c. 1566 Capitalists, clergy, professional men,
All other families, . . 146 &c. . . . 66
Labourers not agricultural, . 554
Total males, . 4966 All other males of 20 years, . 49
Total females, . . . 4614 Male servants above 20 years of
age, . ; :-. ' .'.';• 52
9580 Under 20 years of age, .. 15
Males upwards of 20 years, . 2342 All female servants, .' . ' . 171
652 LANARKSHIRE.
In the principal villages in the parish the population was as fol-
lows, viz.
Langlone.
Males, . . / .... {, 269 All other families, . . . 23
Females, . . 273 Males above 20 years of age, . 129
Male servants, . • .8
542 Female servants, . |>,> . 6
Families, .- . . 118. Inhabited houses, . ; 85
employed in agriculture,
in trade, manufactures, &c. 91
Dundyvan.
Males, . . . 311 All other families, . . 13
Females, * . . 267 Males above 20 years of age, 135
Male servants, . . 3
578 Female servants, . . .4
Families, . . . 124 Inhabited houses, . . 89
employed in agriculture, . 2
in trade, manufactures, &c. 109
Coaibridge.
Males, . . 397 All other families, . 1
Females, . . 344 Males above 20 years of age, . 185
Male servants, .
741 Female servants, . . 4
Families, . .126 Inhabited houses, . . 107
employed in agriculture,
in trade, manufactures, &c. 125
Bailiestone and CrosshilL
Males, . . . . 438 All other families, . . 39
Females, . . . 410 Males above 20 years of age, . 212
Male servants, . . ft 2
848 Female servants, . ... 11
Families, . . .179 Inhabited houses, . . 128
employed in agriculture, 14
< in trade, manufactures, &c. 126
There is also a considerable village population in the following
villages : — Tollcross, Carmyle, Foxley and Broomhouse, Barra-
chine, Morriston and East Morriston, Bargeddie, Dykehead, and
Coatdyke.
In the lists taken up for the Church Commission, the results
were as follows : —
1. That part of the parish bounded on the south by the Clyde
and Calder, including all to the south of the parish road from
Breadiesholm avenue head to the Edinburgh turnpike road, near
Bailiestone Toll, and along the south side of the turnpike road to>
the westmost end of the parish.
Total males and females, 2054
Under 7 years of age, . 445
12 years of age, . 676
2. To the north of the above district, including all to the north
of the parish road, beginning at the end of Longmuir road, pass-
ing Breadiesholm avenue, and running on to the turnpike road at
Bailiestone Toll, and westward to Barrachine. This district is
OLD MONKLAND. 653
bounded on the west by the Longmuir road, onward to the canal
at Cuilhill, and from thence to Whitehill, near the parish of
Cadder.
Total males and females, . 1182
Under 7 years of age, . 292
12 years of age, 'V 438
3. That part of the parish included within a line beginning at
the south-east corner of the narrow parish road opposite Breadies-
holm gateway, crossing the turnpike near Rhins, onwards to Seving
Bridge, round by Netherhouse, Comrnonhead, Cuilhill, Long-
muir, Dykehead, and terminating with Mainhill. Also all within
a line beginning at Bailiestone Toll, including all on the west of the
road, which leads from Bailiestone Toll towards the canal, and all
on the south side of the canal to the western extremity of the pa-
rish, near Glenduffhill, and all on the north of the Edinburgh road
from Barrachine to Bailiestone Toll.
Total males and females, . . 1009
Under 7 years of age, . 278
12 years of age, . 412
4. This district is bounded on the south, by Dundyvan or Lug-
gie Burn (except one house south side of it) ; on the north, by the
Glasgow and Edinburgh road from the east, and of Coats Bridge to
the west end of Langlone ; on the east, by the lands of Coats and
Dundyvan Canal cut ; and on the west, by the mill or church road.
In this district fourteen new houses were inhabited between the
time that this census was begun and concluded.
Total males and females, . 1943
Under 7 years of age, t ' 435
12 years of age, . 633
5. This district includes all to the east of Blair Bridge road, on
to where the Kirkintilloch Railway joins the parish of Cadder ; and
all from Blair Bridge road to the north of Edinburgh road, on to
Coats west gate, and all on the west of a line drawn from Coats
House, on to where the railway joins the New Monkland parish.
Total males and females, . 1923
Under 7 years of age, . 527
12 years of age, . 753
6. This district includes all to the east of a line from Coats
House to Luggie Water near Dundyvan iron- works, to the south of
Luggie Water or to Langlone Mill Bridge, to the east of the road
from Luggie Mill Bridge, onward to Old Monkland Kirk, and in a
line due south to the Calder, and all to north of the Calder, from
that point to the eastern extremity of the parish.
Total males and females, . 1751
Under 7 years of age, . 447
12 years of age, . - 569
654 LANARKSHIRE.
These districts include only 8862 of the inhabitants. The de-
tails of the remaining districts have unfortunately not been put
into the writer's possession ; but the whole population, as taken up
in 1837, was 1 1,577, which, compared with the population of 1831,
which was 9580, is an increase, in five years, of 1997, or at the
rate of 399 per annum, or rather upwards. At the same rate the
national census in 1841 will probably return at least 13,580, or
probably more. It is, in fact, almost impossible at present to cal-
culate, upon any rational data, the ratio of increase. Since last
general census in 1831, and since 1837, the population has in-
creased vastly. When the census was taken for the Church Com-
mission in 1837, the houses, with their inhabitants, which had been
erected and inhabited since 1831, were nearly as follows. But it
must be premised, that the increase of houses, or rather of entire
villages, since 1837, has been very great.
1. Houses on the south of Garnkirk Railway, a little west of Inhabitants.
Gartsherrie Inn, - 30
2. Witch-tree cottage, - 13
3. Cross-roads, ....... 24
4. Two new rows near Gartsherrie Works, - 200
5. New houses near Crossbill, - - 131
6. New houses Coatdyke.
7. Locks road new houses, - 47
8. Houses near old quarry opposite Laigh Coats, - - 20
9. Cairnhill bridge new houses, •» 45
10 Calder bridge new row.
11. Summerlee new bouses, - >i- 150
660
These were erected previous to 1837 ; and since that period
erections have been taking place for the accommodation of the in-
habitants on a much more extensive scale. The increase of the
population in this parish is almost entirely owing to the coal and
iron trade. There is no certain method of ascertaining the mar-
riages, baptisms, and deaths, for the last seven years, as the pa-
rish within that period has been divided, quoad spiritualia, into
three parishes, viz. the Old Parish, and the parishes of Crossbill
and Gartsherrie. The proclamations for the following years and
in each month of the respective years in the parish church were as
follow :
1832. 1833. 1834. 1835. 1836. 1837. 1838.
January, 10 5 7 12 12 13 9
February, 4 10 6 12 5 7 12
March, 3 6 10 15 9 13 7
April, . 10 10 9 9 6 13 7
May, .7 3 6 17 21 20 11
June, .4 12 12 11 14 7 11
July, 7 4 7 6 16 7 6
OLD MONKLAND. 655
1832.
1833.
1834.
1835.
1836.
1837.
1838.
August,
10
7
7
8
9
5
9
September,
4
9
5
5
12
3
5
October,
9
2
14
7
16
10
16
November,
9
6
17
11
15
17
18
December,
9
8
7
12
14
7
12
86 82 107 125 149 122 124
The total number of proclamations in seven years was 755,
which gives an average of 108 proclamations per annum. The
baptisms in 1831 were 136 in the parish church. The number
elsewhere cannot be ascertained. The regular marriages were
103, which is very near the average of the proclamations. There
was in that year only one irregular marriage. In the same year,
the burials were 52- males and 50 females. The deaths in this
district generally are 1 in 169 nearly. The registers, from the
change of schoolmasters and other causes, have, for the last seven
years, been kept very irregularly. The village population in 1831
was 2038, and the rural, 7470. About 37 heritors pay for school-
master's salary, L. 23, 5s. 3d. ; 53 heritors pay for poor's rates,
L. 212, 7s. 3d. The number of proprietors of land of the value
of L.50 and upwards is about 40. The ancient valuation of the
parish is L. 6480, 18s. 9d. Scots, and is thus distributed :
Rosehall, . . L-733 13 4 Garturk, . . . L.183 0 0
Daldowie, . . 321 6 8 Kairnhill, ... 60 0 0
Gartsherrie, . . 523 6 8 Neuk and Sandycroft, . 61 0 0
Milntown, . . 182 3 0 Pyotshaw and Scar-hole, 1700
Kenmuir, . . 174 0 0 Baird's Mailing, . . 14 0 0
Langlone and Drumpellier, 172 0 0 Creaswoods, N. and S. 47 0 0
Blairtumock, . . 88 15 8 Faskine, . . . 161 8 11
Bruntbroom, . . 37 19 3 Bogleshill, . . 176 0 0
Sutterhouse, . . 100 0 0 Hutcheson and Carmyle, 122 0 0
Lanlgone, . . 23 3 6 Fullerton, . . . 40 0 0
Dean Bank, . . 33 1 7 Glenduff-hill, . . 49 0 0
Bargainsholm, . 26 0 0 Lochwoods, . . 144 0 0
Brourishill, . . 14 0 0 Funds mortified to the Col-
Paddochin, . . 66 13 4 lege, . . . 133 6 8
Kailyard, . . . 67 6 8 Breadiesholm, . . 183 3 4
Dundyvan, . . . 140 0 0 Mainhill, . . . 106 3 8
Paton's Wells, . . 28 0 0
Natural children 9 per annum ; bachelors, 46 ; old maids, 120*
There are 15 or 16 families in the parish of what may be term-
ed independent fortune, although many or most of them are still
connected with trade. The population are mostly connected with
the iron arid coal trade. A great many Irish are everywhere to
be found.
Language.. — The true Lowlanders in this district speak with
great plainness the patois of the country, but they have a few ex-
pressions scarcely intelligible to their neighbours. For example,
the word infidel is considered as synonymous with idiot ; and when
656 LANARKSHIRE.
a man says, " Do you think I am an infidel ?" a frequent interro-
gatory among the handicrafts, he merely means he is no fool, but
knows what he is about. The no less common expression, " will
you never deval 9" merely means, will you never give over. In such
a concourse of strangers as now prevails here, there are many
doubtful or unintelligible characters. These are uniformly termed
" nomalistic characters." Compellment is also a common word
for forcing or compelling one against his will, and combustibles is
most erroneously applied to the filthy accumulations of animal, ve-
getable, and earthy matters in ditches and covered drains, which
carry away the refuse from their dwellings.
There is now little or no poaching, and no smuggling.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — The parish of Old Monkland greatly excels the
New Monkland in fertility of soil, and in salubrity of climate. In-
deed, the soil here is in all respects very superior to the soil
above the coal-fields in other parts of the country. The land very
seldom attains any very considerable elevation, and in most in-
stances it is level, and generally slopes with a gentle declivity to
the Clyde. The principal uncultivated places are Gartgill moss,
Lochwood, Drumpellier, and Coatsmuir or Muiryhall, in all about
1500 acres. Towards the north, however, where the coal crops
out, the peat mosses come in in great abundance. The arable
soil in the parish is of three kinds. That along the banks of the
Clyde and Calder is a strong clay, but, from high cultivation in many
places, now resembles a good loam. This soil produces luxuriant
crops of grain, particularly of wheat, and yields sometimes from
12 to 16 bolls per acre. The middle of the parish is a light
sand, affording excellent crops _of oats and potatoes. Towards
the north, as already stated, are extensive tracts of moss. The
farmers in this district have peculiar facilities for procuring lime
and manure by the canal and railways. In former times, the or-
dinary rotation of crops was to turn up before oats or peas ; then
summer-fallow and wheat ; then peas and beans ; and then oats
and grass seeds. About the west end of the parish there is now
a rotation of four years, viz. potatoes, wheat, hay, and oats. Some
pasture a year or two between the hay and oats, or have turnips
instead of potatoes. Turnips yield from 25 to 30 tons per acre ;
30 tons is the average, but 40 are often obtained ; potatoes 45
bolls per acre, or even 7 pecks per fall, which is at the rate of 70
bolls per acre. In other parts of the parish, as about Gartsherrie,
OLD MONK LAND. 657
the rotation is, 1. oats, sometimes two crops; 2. potatoes; 3.
wheat; 4. hay ; 5. pasture; 6. pasture. Wheat here averages
8 bolls per acre, but is often as high as 12 ; oats 6 bolls ; pota-
toes 40 to 50 on best lands ; hay 150 stones per acre. The ave-
rage rental of the land throughout the parish is L. 2, 5s., much of
it is below this, and many acres let much higher. There are about
200 acres of undivided common. The parish is very well wooded,
and may have 1200 acres in plantation.
The cattle here are of a very superior sort ; the cows mostly of
the Ayrshire breed, and the horses of the Clydesdale breed.
Perhaps no parish in Scotland has taken more first prizes at the
great cattle-shows in various parts of the country. The breeders
here have repeatedly taken first premiums from the Highland So-
cieties' shows, and others, for mares, stallions, bulls, cows", &c. Mr
Bowman and Mr Drew have been deservedly often rewarded for
their great skill and perseverance in rearing the best sorts of stock.
Mr Baird of High-cross, near Old Monkland Kirk, is one of the
ablest and most enterprising of those meritorious individuals -to
whom the agricultural interests of this district are so highly indebt-
ed. Mr Cairn and Mr Finlay have also stocks of a very superior
order. Considerable improvements are everywhere carrying on
in the reclaiming of waste lands. Mr Johnstone of Gartcloss
has been a very successful improver of moss, and has made many
successful experiments on the Gartcloss moss. His method is,
1. to drain; 2. to dig; 3. to put on earth on the surface; 4. ma-
nure. The drains are what are here termed goats, i. e. deep
ditches about six yards apart. The digging costs L. 4 per acre,
putting on the clay, L. 6, draining, L. 4. Perhaps, generally
speaking, it will take from L. 20 to L. 24 to put an acre in crop.
About 20 tons of Glasgow dung at 5s. or 6s. per ton are requir-
ed, but 15 bolls of oats have been obtained from an acre of moss
thus reclaimed. The usual duration of leases is nineteen years.
The farm-houses are generally in good condition.
Flax was formerly much sown in the parish, but at present only
very partially. The lintseed was generally sown on ground
well manured with dung or lime, after one crop had been taken
from it. The time of sowing is April, and it is ready for pulling
about the 1st of August. Nine women at lOd. per day will pull an
acre, or about 16 stones. Thirty or forty years ago, this was a pro-
fitable way of procuring a return to the farmer, one individual having
been known to get L. 240 per annum for 30 acres. One of the prin-
658 LANARKSHIRE.
cipal causes of the high degree of cultivation into which this parish
has been brought is its vicinity to the city of Glasgow. When a
merchant or trader has made a little money, he purchases a piece
of land, builds an elegant villa, and improves his property at the
dearest rate. The parish is also greatly indebted to a patriotic
and extremely well conducted and successful agricultural associa-
tion, the " Old Monkland, Bothwell, Barony, and Gadder Farm-
ing Society." This institution was set on foot about ten years ago,
under the name of the " New Farming Society ;" and the first
premium was awarded to Mr Robert Law, 26th February 1830.
At the last ploughing match, 15th February 1889, on Mr Baird's
farm at High-cross, 28 ploughs started, and various prizes were
awarded to the successful competitors. Among one of the pre-
miums was 1500 drain tiles. The whole parish is divided into
87 ploughgates. The rate of labour in Old Monkland, as proved
to the trustees of a late meeting of heritors, was as follows : eight
hours labour for an able man, and able horse, and proper cart, 6s.
per day. -Wages for a labourer ten hours, 2s. per day. The total
gross produce from land, including the portion for landlord, tenant,
and for working the ground, is about L. 36,000, the houses about
L. 4000.
The parish is generally well fenced with thorn hedges. Trees
of all sorts thrive well, but the Scotch fir does not stand the smoke,
which seems to fill up its pores. No species of fir or pine en-
dures the smoke from the collieries, and even furnaces for a length
of time. Hard-wood, however, suffers but little from it.
Manufactures. — The great, the all-engrossing manufacture of
this parish is the iron trade. Out of the eighty-eight furnaces for
the manufacture of iron, which at present exist in Scotland, sixty-
five are in this parish, or in its immediate neighbourhood. The
furnaces now in operation in the parish are,—
Inblast* °
1. Gartsherrie,
2. Dundyvan,
3. Monkland,
4. Clyde,
5. Summerlee,
6. Carnbroe,
7. Calder,
W. Baird and Co.
Dunlop and Co.
Monkland Iron Co.
James Dunlop,
Wilsons and Co.
Alison and Co.
W. Dixon and Co.
7
5
5
4
5
2
6
0 1 - 6
0-1-4
0-0-0
1-0-4
0-0-2
0-2-2
0-0-0
This last is on an elbow of Bothwell parish, and Monkland iron-
works are upon its borders, but both are intimately connected with
the parish of Old Monkland. There were, at the time when this
estimate was taken, thirty-four furnaces in blast, but by the time this
account meets the public there will be many more. Supposing
OLD MONKLAND. 659
each of the thirty-four furnaces to yield 100 tons per week, the an-
nual produce will be 176,800 tons per annum. For producing a
ton of iron, 3 tons of coals, and from 5 to 6 cwt. of lime are re-
quired. Allowing 3 tons of coals as above for the manufacture
of one ton of iron, the thirty-four furnaces now in blast will alone
consume 530,400 tons of coal per. annum, and at least 884,000
cwts. of lime. These iron-works alone consume an equal amount
of coals in a year, as the city of Glasgow, including the different
manufactories and public works, and more lime than is consumed
by all the farmers in the county of Lanark. In ] 806, the produce
of pig-iron throughout the whole county of Lanark was only from
9000 to 10,000 tons per annum, and the coals consumed about
130,000 tons. In the beginning of 1794, the produce of pig iron
was only 3600 tons, by which 36,000 tons of coals were con-
sumed.
The state of the iron trade at these several periods will stand
thus, — in
Years. Tons of pig iron produced. Tons of coals consumed.
1794, - 3,600 .. 36,000
1806, - 9,000 - 130,000
1839, - 176,800 ,_;-... 530,400
Several of the iron companies in this parish are directing their
attention to the manufacture of bar iron. The Monkland Com-
pany are procuring mills and forges capable of producing 220 or
230 tons of malleable iron per week; and the Dundyvan Company
are also making suitable preparations for the same purpose, on a
still more extensive scale. The steam-engines employed at seve-
ral of the above works are very powerful. At Gartsherrie, there
are two engines, the one has a steam-cylinder, 45 inches diame-
ter, and an air-cylinder, 80 inches. The second engine has a
steam-cylinder, 48 inches, and air-cylinder, 90 inches diameter.
At Dundyvan, the steam-cylinder of the engine is 45 inches, and
the air-cylinder, 90 inches in diameter. At Monkland, the steam-
cylinder is 42 inches ; the ah> cylinder, 77. At Clyde Iron-works,
the steam- cylinder is 40 inches, the air-cylinder, 80. At Sum-
merlee, the steam- cylinder is 48 inches, the air-cylinder, 93. At
Calder, there are two engines, one of 52, and another of 40 horse-
power. At Gartsherrie, the air-vessels substituted for the water-
pressure or regulator are of enormous size. The largest is 11
feet diameter, and 43 feet high, and has a capacity within of 4000
square feet ; the lesser is 10 feet diameter, and 40 feet high, and
contains an area of 3000 square feet. The whole of these iron-
660 LANARKSHIRE.
works are in full blast for seven days in the week, except Gart-
sherrie and Summerlee, where no work is done on Sabbath. The
loss of so many days in the year might, at first sight, seem to be
a great sacrifice to the respectable and conscientious proprietors
of these works, but in reality it is not. The men work with more
spirit and effect through the week, with the knowledge of a day's
interval from labour before them, and the moral habits are ad-
vanced so as to render all concerned better servants, and more va-
luable members of society. Where this boon is granted, the pro-
prietors also get their choice of the best hands ; indeed, where
steady men are not employed, this boon, for obvious reasons, can-
not be granted.
One of the great causes of the unprecedented advancement of
the iron trade in this district is the abundant command of the black-
band of ironstone, united to the no less important introduction of
the heated air-blast. Without the black-band, the furnaces could
not produce the same quantity of iron in the same time, and at
the same cost, and by the substitution of heated for cold air, in
keeping up the blast, the saving of coal or fuel has been also very
great. The progress of this, like the progress of some other
great discoveries, is somewhat obscure, and has not as yet been
sufficiently investigated, or fairly and fully set before the public.
In the history of the hot blast, as applied to the smelting of
iron, as in the history of the steam-engine, the merit does not ex-
clusively belong to one individual, but was the result of varied skill
and varied application*. A digest of the actual progress of this in-
vention, which can be attested by documents and abundance Of
parole evidence, is as follows :
1. Mr Sadler, chemist to the Admiralty, was the first to notice
the effects of heated air, and describes fully " a furnace for extri-
cating oxygen, and other general purposes," also " an apparatus
for heating the stream of air," with " observations on the air-ves-
sel of fire-engines, to show in what manner it may be applied to
blowing engines." The treatise itself is published in Nicolson's
Philosophical Journal for April 1798, and is decidedly a treatise
explaining the application of heated air to furnaces.
2. Mr Stirling, one of the ministers of Kilmarnock, in Decem-
ber 1816, obtained a patent for his " invention of diminishing the
consumption of fuel," &c. In that portion of his specification which
applies to furnaces, his plan is to " cause it to pass through long
narrow flues to the furnace." The great principle of Mr Stir-
OLD MONKLAND. 66 I
ling's patent was, that " a constant stream of heated air might be
kept up by its being passed through long and narrow flues, alter-
nately heated, by which a more intense heat might be produced
with less expenditure of fuel. This was the first patent taken out
for the application of heated air to furnaces,
3. In October 1828, James Beaumont Neilson, Esq. of Glas-
gow, obtained letters-patent from His Majesty, for an improved
application of air, to produce heat in furnaces, where bellows or
other blowing apparatus are required. In this patent, it was ex-
pressly specified, that " the blast or current of air so produced
is to be passed from the bellows or blowing apparatus into an
air-vessel or receptacle, made sufficiently strong to endure the
blast, and through and from that vessel or receptacle, by means
of a tube, pipe, or aperture, into the fire, forge, or furnace." This
application of Mr Neilson's, although not a new principle, has
been deservedly highly prized by all who understand it, and he
has the merit of being the first to apply heated air, especially, to
the fusion of iron. The great defect of Mr Neilson's apparatus
was, that it did not long resist the united action of heat and oxygen,
and did not admit of the air being heated above 200° Fahrenheit
4. Mr Dixon of the Calder Iron-works has the merit of hav-
ing been the first to discover that, with heated air, common pit-coal
could be used instead of coke. He also substituted for Mr Neil-
son's apparatus, a long range of pipe, through which the air was
driven, and to which, surrounded by a flue, the heat was applied.
5. The Messieurs Baird of Gartsherrie found that the insertion
of a pipe of less diameter, closed at the end, for receiving the blast
within the main one, so as to force the air through the space left
betwixt the circular surface of the pipe, so introduced, and the in-
ner surface of the main pipe to which the flame was applied, pro-
duced a more intense and equal heat ; and therefore, the result to
which they arrived was, that the benefit of the heated air in the
smelting process could only be obtained by a method the reverse of
that which had been recommended by Mr Neilson ; that is to
I say, by- diminishing the space for the passage of the air, where heat
was to be applied, instead of increasing the quantity of air, by
having a large vessel or receptacle for that purpose.
6. In the last stage of this great and important discovery, the
merit is also unquestionably due to the Messrs Baird, of having
been the first to lead the heated air through a series of branch-
LANARK. U U
662 LANARKSHIRE.
pipes, which diverge from the main or supply-pipes by which the
air is transmitted from a large air-receiver, alluded to in a former
page. These tubes are connected with the main-pipes leading
from the air-receiver, and are cased in brick-work, and heated from
below. The air passes through these tubes, which are heated so
as to be red hot, and enters into the smelting furnace at a tempe-
rature from 600° to 612° Fahrenheit. This last and great im-
provement is now universally adopted, and it is to the Messrs
Baird, especially to James Baird, Esq. of Gartsherrie, that we are
indebted for an invention as new and important in the history of
heated air, as Watt's invention was in the history of the steam-en-
gine. The Messrs Baird were clearly entitled to a patent had they
thought fit to apply for it, but these gentlemen have generously
sacrificed self-emolument, and that in various ways, greatly to their
own loss.
The following tables will give some idea of the comparative ad-
vantages and progressive saving accomplished by this great disco-
very. In 1829, when combustion was produced by cold air, there
was required :
Ton. Cwt. Ton. Cwt.
Coal. 1. For fusion, 3 tons of coke, corresponding with 6 13
2. For the blowing engine, - - 10
7 13
Limestone, . 0 10£
In furnaces blown with air heated at 450°, and fusion being
produced by coke, the results were —
Ton. Cwt. Ton. Cwt.
Coal. 1 . For fusion, 1 ton 1 8 cwt. of coke, corresponding with 4 6
2. For hot air apparatus, 0 5
3. For blowing machine, - - 0 7
4 18
Limestone, - 09
With air heated at 612 the results are —
Ton. Cwt. Ton. Cwt.
Coal. 1. For fusion, 2 0
2. For hot air apparatus, 0 8
3. For blowing engine, - - Oil
2 19
Limestone, - - 07
It appears that the introduction of hot air into furnaces has been
attended with great saving ; 1. by admitting of the use of raw coal
instead of coke ; 2. the saving of fuel used in smelting is in propor-
tion to the temperature to which the air is raised ; 3. hot air has in-
creased the make of the furnaces by more than one-third, and has
of course saved much expense in the article of labour ; 4. one
steam-engine can blow at least four blast furnaces instead of three.
OLD MONK LAND. 663
It was long doubted whether iron made with raw bituminous
coal and heated air would answer for malleable iron. Several ex-
periments have lately been made to this effect, which have been
attended with the most satisfactory results. Messrs Beecroft,
Butler, and Co., at their works at Kirkstall, near Leeds, lately
found that 4 cwt. 2 qrs. of Scotch pig iron yielded by the process
^f boiling instead of puddling, blooms of 4 cwt. 1 qr. 8 Ibs. each,
snowing only the comparative trifling waste of 20 Ibs. in a charge
of 4 cwt. 2 qrs., and the quality of iron was found to be equal at
least to any made from cold air.
The castings take place at these works every twelve hours.
The iron obtained is generally a mixture of No. 1 and No. 2.
The average produce of the raw ironstone varies from 22 to 34
per cent. ; when calcined it varies from 40 to 50 per cent. ; the
average is 44, at from 8s. 6d. to 9s. per ton. On an average, the
manufacture of a ton of pig iron requires 4856 Ibs. of coal, or 2 tons
8J cwt. The hot air apparatus consumes about 8 cwt. to a ton, which
raises the total quantity to 2 tons 16J cwts., or about 2f tons to the
ton of pig iron. Each furnace is fully charged twice in the twenty-
four hours. Each single charge, at an average, requires about 660
Ibs. of coal, 520 Ibs. of calcined iron ore, and 100 Ibs. of lime-
stone; i. e. 154 such charges produce about 17 tons 15 cwt. or 18
tons 17 cwt. in twenty-four hours. As ordinary tuyers would not
resist the high temperature to which they are exposed, water tuyers
have been substituted similar to those used in refineries. The
temperature at the place where the tuyer enters the furnace is a
brilliant white heat, and the flame which escapes from the tunnel-
head is of a bright red, whilst that of the old furnaces supplied by
coke and blown with cold air is of a yellowish hue. The pressure
of the blast upon the iron receiver is, on an average, about 2£ Ibs.
According to the dimensions of the blowing cylinder, the quantity
of blast was formerly 2827 cubic feet per minute for each furnace
when blown by cold air, and is now only 2120 cubic feet. The
following tables will prove interesting :
Furnaces blown by cold air.
I. Coal for fusion.
3 tons coke correspond to 6 15
For blowing engine, . 1 0
T. C. T. C.
7 15
For heating apparatus.
2. Calcined Ore 3523 Ibs.
Average 57 per cent. . 1 15
3- Limestone, . . J . 0 10
Furnaces blown by heated air.
T. C. T. C.
Raw coal, . 2 0
„ „ . . 0 11
„ ,, • 08
2 19
3780 Ibs. 56 per cent. 1 18
704 Ibs. . 07
664 LANARKSHIRE.
The following table will show the value of the materials used
by the two processes ;
Materials used. With cold air. With hot air.
ton. cwt. L. s. d. ton. cwt. L. s. d.
Coal for fusion at 5s. per ton, . 61 3 1133 2 0 0100
For the blowing machine at Is. 8d. per ton ,'2 0 036 Oil 00 11
For heating apparatus, . . 00000 08008
Calcined ore, 12s. per ton, . 115 110 118 129
Limestone at 7s. . . . 0 10 036 00036
Labour, 10s. . . . 000 10 0 000 10 0
General charges, interest of capital, 6s. 00060 00060
L.3 17 3 L.2 13 10
The total cost of erecting a heating apparatus is estimated at
about L. 130, 16s. for each blast furnace, thus : — Brick work,
L. 20; iron work for furnace, L.12; cast iron pipes, L. 33, 8s.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Nearly the whole population, with the exception of those con-
nected with rural operations, and a few weavers and other neces-
sary tradesmen, are absorbed in the coal and iron trade. There
is no great town in the parish, but many of the villages are in-
creasing daily, and, indeed, the centre of the parish, about Long-
lone and Coatbridge, is one large village. In 1794, the number
of colliers, bearers, and others connected with that business in
the parish was at Fullarton, 150; Barrachnie, &c. 75; Mr Stir-
ling's, 160; Captain Christie's, 50; total, 435. At present the
number employed is about 3000.
Market-Town, fyc. — The nearest market-town is Airdrie, in New
Monkland, on the immediate confines of the parish. The com-
munications in all directions by roads, railways, and the canal, are
such as might be expected in a great commercial district. There are
in the parish forty-four miles of roads, and ten miles of turnpike.
About L.500per annum is raised for road-money, butin some places,
from the great increase of carting from the collieries to the canal and
railways, the parish roads are very bad. Four great railways pass
through this parish, or enter into it by immediate junctions or con-
nections, viz. the Monkland and Kirkintilloch, the Ballochnie, the
Garnkirk and Glasgow, and Wishaw and Coltness. Besides these,
the Monkland and Glasgow Canal extends through almostthe entire
length of the parish. The revenue of the canal may be L.I 5,000
per annum, and that of the railways L.20,000. Twenty years ago,
there was no public conveyance between this and Glasgow. A
track-boat was put upon the canal about that time. The Garn-
kirk Railway Company run a train of carriages by steam four times
a day between Glasgow and Airdrie ; open carriages, 8d., close
OLD MONKLAND.
carriages, Is. The canal boat runs twice a day; fares, 4d. steer-
age, 6d. cabin. The steam trains, including stoppages, go in an
hour, the canal boats in /two hours — the distance by both is about
ten miles. The difference is 4d. per hour. Some take the cheaper,
to save money, but the greater number the dearer, to save time.
The canal rates have been reduced since the' introduction of rail-
ways nearly one-third, and yet the revenue is in a thriving condi-
tion. In 1831, when the last population list was taken up, the
passengers, goods, &c. were as follows :
Tons Tons Tons Total .
coal dross, iron, sundries, tons. int'
201,607 8,729 12,138 222,474 L. 12,191 7 8
Sheepford tonnage, . . . . .10,156 246 4 4
Passage-boat passengers, . . . 25,129 456 13 0
Toll-bar, ... . , . . 427 7 4
Rents, ... . . . . 107 15 0
Total, L.I 3,429 7 4
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated near the
centre of the parish, (which is much longer than broad,) rather to
the west side, where it is only 400 or 500 yards from the confines
of the parish of Both well. It was built in 1790, by Mr Robert
Watson, at the very moderate charge of L. 500. It is seated
for 894: add 8 seats to the corner of Rosehall galleries, 902
Eight pounds Scots entitles to one sitting. The whole seats
are in the possession of thirty-six individuals. The estates
of Gartsherrie and Garturk, &c. have 138 seats; Rosehall,
&c. 102; Carmyle, &c. 88; Drumpellier, Faskin, &c. 70;
Breadiesholm, 58; Daldowie, 42, &c. There are two parishes,
quoad spiritualia, viz. Crossbill and Gartsherrie. The new church
at Crossbill was the first in Scotland on the Church Extension
principle. The church contains about 600, and has no galleries,
owing to the walls being too low.
This parish is bounded on the south by the turnpike road from
Shotts to Glasgow ; on the west, by the Barony parish of Glasgow ;
on the north, by the parish of Cadder ; and on the east, by the
Old Monkland parish road leading from Lusshill to Crossbill,
from Crossbill to nearly opposite Breadiesholm gate, thence by
the parish road, which leads past the west of Commonhead, thence
in a straight line to the Bishop Loch, a little to the east of Loch-
side farm-house, including all the houses and families within said
district, comprising a population of 2600.
The church at Gartsherrie is a very elegant fabric. It contains
1500 sittings. It is 69 feet long and 49 feet wide, besides a large
lobby and stairs. The height is 34 feet, the tower 136 feet, with
6C6 LANARKSHIRE.
spire at west end. The estimated expense is L.8300. The bell
was cast by Mr Burgess, brassfounder, Glasgow. It cost Is. 4d.
per lb., in all L. 180. This parish is bounded on the east and
north, by the parishes of New Monklandand Gadder; on the west
by the road leading from Chryston to Cuilhill colliery; on the
south, by the boundary line between the estates of Gartsherrie and
Drumpellier, to the point where that line joins the road leading
from Blair Bridge to Gartsherrie ; from that point by the foresaid
road leading from Gartsherrie to Blair Bridge ; afterwards by the
road leading from Merriston Bridge to the new Edinburgh road ;
by the new Edinburgh road to the point where it crosses the Gart-
sherrie Burn ; and by the Gartsherrie Burn and Airdrie side
Burn to Sheepford Lock, including a population of 3388 souls.
The two rows of houses between the old and new Edinburgh
roads still belong to the original parish. The minister has a free
house and a bond for L. 150 per annum.
In the six districts included under the population estimates the
comparative number of churchmen and of those belonging to other
denominations is as follows :
Churchmen. Other denominations.
1. District, 764 - 1209
2. Do. - - 927 208
3. Do. - 581 - 212
4. Do. - 1413 - 402
5. Do. - 1357 - 550
6. Do. . . 1833 - 876
6875 3457
As No. 3 of the population list is awanting, this only contains a
portion of the population.
The tithes of this parish, together with the grassums at giving
leases, belong to the College of Glasgow.
1. Gross amount of teinds belonging to the College :
B. F. P. L. L s d.
Meal, - 173 3 2 0 - 139 16 6
Bear, - 18 0 0 0 - 16 19 7
Money, - 546 9 6
Value thereof, L. 703 5 7
2. Applied to ministers' stipends and communion elements out
of the gross College teinds :
B. F. P. L. L. s. d.
Meal, - 136 0 0 0 109 7 4
Barley, 136 0 0 0 146 0 7
Money, - 868
Value thereof, L.<263 14 7
3. Value of the unappropriated College teinds, L. 439, 11s.
OLD MONKLAND. 66?
Education. — There is one parochial school, and three branch
schools, but one of these is at present vacant. The instruction
given at these schools consists of English reading, writing, arith-
metic, grammar, geography, Latin, and Greek; to which might
be conveniently added, practical mathematics, land-surveying, and
composition. The salary of the parish schoolmaster is L.3], and
that of each of the others, L.6, 15s. lid. per annum. The amount
of school-fees cannot be given, as no returns were received from
the teachers. The other emoluments of the parish schoolmaster
are derived from the office of session-clerk; but the amount is not
ascertained. At the schools not parochial, English reading, gram-
mar, writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping are taught, and at
some geography, history, mathematics, * and Latin. Children
taught to read under five years of age, males, 44; females, 71 ;
total, 116. From five to fifteen, males, 576; females, 448; to-
tal, 1024. To write from five to fifteen, males, 204 ; females,
114; total, 318. Attending school at Broomhouse, 24; Bailie-
ston, 45 to 60; Swinton, 36; Old Woman Merriston, 20 both
sexes; sewing-school, Camp-houses, 14.
Library. — There is a library at Longlone, containing about 500
volumes.
Poor. — The sum of L.212, 7s. 3d. is paid for the poor per an-
num by fifty-three heritors. This sum is not sufficient ; but a
voluntary contribution is raised as follows, by proprietors and te-
nants of minerals, who bind themselves only for twelve months.
General Pye Douglas, L.7 0 0 T. Johnston, for (^artcloss, L.2 0 0
Drumpellier, for collieries &c. 25 0 0 William Young, for Cairnhill, 500
William Baird and Co. . 17 10 0 Wilson and Co. Summerlee, 10 0 0
William Dixon, Calder, . 15 0 0 James Frew and Co. . 200
James Dunlop, Clyde, . 12 10 0 Kirkintilloch Railway Co. .500
G. M. Nisbet, Cairnhill, .200 Monkland Canal Co. . 000
W. F. Campbell, Woodhall, 300 Millar and Eadie, . 700
Messrs Murry and Buttrey, 6 10 0 Wr. M' A dam, Easter House, 3 0 0
William Hozier, Whifflat, .600 Tenants of Minerals, . 200
James Merry, for Rhiny, .500
Ja. Gemmel, for Netherhouse, 2 10 0 L. 168 0 0
Alehouses. — The number of alehouses is 110.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
The population of this parish is at present advancing at an
amazing rate, and this prosperity is entirely owing to the coal
and iron trade, stimulated by the discovery of the black band of
ironstone, and the method of fusing iron by the hot blast. New
villages are springing up almost every month, and it is quite im-
possible to keep pace with the march of prosperity, and the in-
crease of the population.
February 1840.
PARISH OF GOVAN.
PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. M. LEISHMAN, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — ACCORDING to Lesly, the parish of Govan obtained
its name from the excellence of its ale, which, in his days, was fam-
ed over the whole of Scotland. This beverage, (omc sxxgQew,*
barley-wine,) he tells us, was made without hops, and after being
kept for about seven years, was found, in its taste and colour, to
be so like Malvoisie ( Malveticum vinum,J as to be mistaken fre-
quently for this wine.-)* Lesly supposed, therefore, it would appear,
though he does not say this, that the name of the parish was com-
pounded of the two Saxon words god win, (good wine)4
Extent and Boundaries. — The parish, quoad civilia, is about six
miles long, and near the centre, where it is widest, about three
miles broad. It is bounded by Renfrew on the west ; New Kil-
patrick, Barony, and Glasgow on the north ; Barony, Gorbals, and
Rutherglen on the east; and by Cathcart, Eastwood, and the
Abbey parish of Paisley on the south. It lies chiefly in Lanark-
shire, and contains about ten square miles. The lands of Haggs,
Titwood, and Shields, belonging to Sir John Maxwell, are situat-
ed in the county of Renfrew. Hamilton of Wishaw says,§ that
these lands were disjoined from the sheriffdom of Lanark, and an-
* Herod, lib. ii. cap. 77. Boethius, when describing " the maneris and leiffing
of our auld faderis," says of them, " the common drink that thay usit was ayll."
(Hist. Scot. Introd. Desc. Cap. xvi. Bellenden's translation.) " Come hostess,"
says Piscator, " give us some of your best barley -wine, the good liquor that our ho-
nest forefathers did use to drink of." Isaac Walton's Complete Angler, Part 1. Chap.
v., first published in 1653.
-f- Region, et Insul. Scotia? Descriptio, Joanne Leslaeo, Episeopo Rossensi, pp. 4,
10. Romae, 1578. Reprinted, 1675.
£ This etymology, whatever may be thought of it in other respects, is at least as
good as another which has been hazarded, and with which we are afraid the Trustees
on the river Clyde will be greatly shocked. As this river intersects the parish, it has
been imagined, that the name Govan may have been derived from gamhan, which in
Gaelic is pronounced, we are informed, gavan, and signifies a ditch. Chalmers's Ca-
ledonia, Vol. iii. p. 674.
§ Description of the Sheriffdom of Lanark and Renfrew, p. 29. Printed by the
IVJaitland Club, 1831.
GOVAN. 669
nexed to the sheriffdom of Renfrew, " for the conveniencie of Sir
George Maxwell," who died in 1677. But the original charter
granted to John Maxwell of Pollok by the Archbishop of Glas-
gow, dated 8th June 1581, describes the lands in question (terras
de Haggis, terras de Govan-Schiellis, terras de Titwood,) to be in
the barony and regality of Glasgow, and in the county of Renfrew.
Part of Crossbill, and nearly the whole of Polmadie, are likewise
comprehended in the county of Renfrew.
Topographical Appearances. — The figure of the parish, if we in-
clude along with it the "parish of Gorbals, which was formerly
connected with Govan, is not unlike that of England. In the one
case, as well as in the other, when looking at their respective maps,
a^fanciful person will at once recognize the dolphin's head and tail.
In the centre of the parish, there is a richly cultivated plain, which
is skirted jm both sides by ground slightly elevated, and present-
ing a soft undulating appearance. The parish is studded with the
villas of the opulent merchants of Glasgow, and the fields are in
general divided, as in the most beautiful parts of England, by
hedge-rows, which, with their " verdant screen,"* add both to the
warmth and to the picturesque beauty of the country.
Meteorology and Hydrography.' — The prevalent winds are from
the south-west. This fact is very evident from the general incli-
nation of the trees to the north-east, and from the longest and
strongest roots being sent out in an opposite direction to support
them. This is one of the many wise provisions of nature. It has
been noticed, therefore, that, though the centre of gravity is thrown
towards the north-east, more trees are torn up by violent winds,
when these blow from that point than when they blow from any
other.-)- The temperature of the lower districts of the parish, in
consequence of their sheltered situation, and the dryness of the
soil, is comparatively mild and genial. Invalids and strangers
have often remarked this. The Clyde, joined by the Kelvin, di-
vides the parish near its centre. Before the waters of these two
rivers meet, the Clyde, for about three miles, proceeds along the
north side of the parish, separating it from Glasgow, while the
Kelvin, for more than two miles, winds its way along the eastern
boundary. It would seem that the Kelvin formerly joined the
Clyde above the present ferry-house, which stands on the east
bank of the Kelvin ; or perhaps the ground, on which the ferry-
* Scott's Marmion. f Naismith's Agriculture of Clydesdale, p. 3.
670 LANARKSHIRE.
house or Point House, as it is called, is built, may originally have
been a delta. We cannot, in any other way, account for the fact, that
this is the only part of the parish of Govan which is found east of
the Kelvin. In an old legal instrument in the Glasgow Chartu-
lary, " the islands between Govan and Partick" are mentioned.*
There are no such islands now. In Blaeu's map of the county of
Renfrew, however, which was published at Amsterdam in 1662,
66 Whyt Inch," and part of the property now called Meadowside,
appear as islands. These may have been the islands referred to
in the instrument. At the same time, it is not improbable that
another island, at the mouth of the Kelvin, may also have been one
of them, and that it may have been deprived of its insular form by
being connected with the main-land, at a still earlier period than
the others. The shallowness of the Clyde not many years ago
will almost appear incredible to those who now see ships of 600
tons burthen, and drawing 16 or 17 feet of water, proceeding ma-
jestically up that river, and depositing, in the store-houses of Glas-
gow, the cargoes which tney bring from the most remote parts of
the world. At the mouth of the, Kelvin, in 1770, according to a
survey made by the celebrated James Watt, the depth was only 8
feet 8 inches at high water, and 1 foot 6 inches at low water, f
Previous to this time, t the Clyde was not navigable for vessels of
more than 30 tons burthen, and in summer even such small craft
were often stopped by the shallowness of the river, f On the *26th
of May 1660, Patrick Bryce, tacksman of the <; coal heugh" in
Gorbals, complained to the magistrates of Glasgow, that he could
not get his coals loaded at the Broomielaw, owing to- a scarcity of
water, and that he had been obliged, on this account, to crave li-
cence to lead them through the lands of Sir George Maxwell of
Nether Pollock, for the purpose of loading them " neare to Meikle
Govane."§ There were formerly three fords in the lower part of
the parish, by which the Clyde might usually be crossed with per-
fect safety. One of these, which was near Braehead, was called
the Marline ford. There was another near the present ferry;
and the third, was situated at the east end of the village of Go-
van. The most remarkable height on record to which the Clyde
has risen, in consequence of heavy rains, is thus taken notice of in
* u Et insulas inter Govan et Perthec." Tom. i. p. 12, MSS. in Bib. Coll. Glasg.
+ Cleland's Annals of Glasgow, Vol. i. p. 291.
$ Pennant's Tour, Vol. ii. pp. 130-131.
§ Glasgow Burgh Records.
GOVAN. 671
Gray's MS. Chronicle.* " In 1454, on the 25th and 26th of No-
vember, ther wes ane right gret speit in Clyde, the quilke brocht
down haile housis, bernis, and miliis, and put all the town of Go-
rane (Govane) in ane flote, quihile thai sat on the housis."
Geology and Mineralogy. — The substrata belong to the coal
formation, and contain a considerable portion of its usual fossil re-
mains. A good deal of interest was excited, about twelve or four-
teen years ago, by the discovery of the roots of a number of fossil
trees at Balgray, on the banks of the Kelvin. There were nearly
thirty of these. They were standing close to one another, and in
their natural position. But not more than two feet of the trunks
were attached to the roots, and no organic remains whatever were
visible in the superincumbent rock. One of those fossil roots was
covered over by the proprietor to protect it from injury. It mea-
sures about two feet and a-half in diameter. Another, the trunk
of which measures two feet in diameter, is preserved in the Ander-
sonian Museum in Glasgow. They have all the appearance of be-
longing to the dicotyledonous class of plants. The upper surface
of the coal measures is very generally covered with diluvial mat-
ter, containing rolled stones, indicating the action of currents from
the north-west. Above the diluvium, there are alluvial beds of
sand and finely laminated clay, in which recent marine shells have
been met with. These are in general similar to such as are at pre-
sent found in the Frith of Clyde. Some were lately discovered in
stratified clay in Balshagry and Cartnavel, at least 80 feet above
the level of the sea.-)- From a remote period, coals have been ex-
tensively worked at the Govan collieries, at present in the posses-
sion of Mr W. Dickson. These form a part of the valuable
mines, known by the name of the Glasgow Coal Fields. The fol-
lowing seams lie contiguous to each other.
Feet. Inches thick.
1. The Mossdale or upper coal, . 4 3
2. Rough ell, ... 3 6
3. Rough main, . . . 4 0
4. Humph, . . .2 6
5. Splint ell, . 3 9
6. Splint main, . .70
7. Sour-milk, . . .2 6
There are other seams, at a greater depth, which will no doubt
* Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. iii. p. 587.
f Mr Smith of Jordanhill, who has paid much attention to this deposit, has form-
ed a catalogue of these shells, containing about 150 species. Nearly a tenth part of
these is not known to exist in the present seas.
672 LANARKSHIRE.
be worked when those seven are exhausted. * The dip or incli-
nation of the coal, at Jordanhill and Cartnavel, on the north side
of the Clyde, is to the north-west. But at Bellahoustown, on the
south side of the river, where a pit has been recently sunk to the
depth of 19J fathoms, the dip is to the east and south-east. In
this latter pit the coal that is raised is only 19 inches thick, but
8 inches of that are parrot or cannel-coal, which sells at a high
price for the purpose of being converted into gas. At Jordanhill
and Cartnavel, in a depth of not more than 50 fathoms from the
surface, there are no fewer than sixteen beds of coal, which vary
in thickness from 3 inches to 2 feet. Two of these are worked.
One contains about 7 inches of gas coal of the finest quality ;
the other is considered a very good household coal. Above the
gas coal, there is a very valuable seam of black-band ironstone,
from between 10 to 15 inches thick, and lower down, there are
several seams of that description of ironstone, which is named clay-
band, ranging in thickness from 5 to 12 inches. This was proved
by the late Mr Colin Dunlop to contain from between 30 to 33
per cent, of iron.
Zoology. — The less common birds are the goldfinch (Fringilla
carduelis) ; the golden-crested wren ( Motacilla regulm) ; the
buzzard ( Falco buteo) ; the grey owl (Strix ulula) ; the white
owl (Strix flammed) ; the siskin (Fringilla spinus) ; the teal
(Anas crecca) ; the bald-coot (Fulica atra) ; the water-hen
(Fulica chloropus); the kingfisher (Alcedo ispida) ; and the star-
ling (Sturnus vulgaris). In the fifth volume of the last Statis-
tical Account of Scotland, under the article Glasgow, a list is
given of the various kinds of fish that have been found in the river
and Frith of Clyde. There are much fewer salmon now caught
in the Clyde than formerly. We may form some idea of the spi-
rit and industry of the fishermen of former times, and likewise of
their success, when we find it stated, that in the sixteenth century,
the burgesses of Renfrew, who enjoyed the privilege of fishing
salmon on both banks of the Clyde, had often sixty boats so em-
ployed, during the whole of the spring and summer, -f- An old
fisherman assures the writer, that, fifty years ago, ten salmon were
caught at the different fishing stations in the parish for one that
is caught now. He attributes this falling off to the pollution of
* Account of Minerals belonging to the Corporation of Glasgow, p, 17. Glas-
gow, 1836.
t " Sexaginta piscatorias naves." Leslaei Scotia Descriptio, p. 10.
3
GOVAN. 673
the river by a busy manufacturing community ; to the disturbance
given to the fish by the steam-boats ; and likewise to the formation
of the dikes on both banks of the Clyde, as the drawing of the
nets is in many places thereby obstructed. Porpoises have some-
times appeared as far up the river as this parish. One, which was
about ten feet long, was caught in a net at the Broomielaw, on
the 13th of February 1793. Five others were killed at the same
place in May 1801. In Carmile Dam, four miles above Glas-
gow, about sixty years ago, a still more uncommon fish, a sturgeon,
was killed, which measured eight feet in length. It was shown
in Glasgow to the curious for two or three days. *
Botany. — Along with other plants the following are found
in different parts of the parish :
Pinguicula vulgaris, on the north bank of the Clyde, and in the moss near Shield-
hall. The Laplanders are said to use it as a rennet for milk.
Iris pseudacorus, north bank of the Clyde. In Arran, its roots are employed to dye
black, and in Jura, mixed with copperas, to make ink. Its seeds, roasted and
ground, are an indifferent substitute for coffee.
Phleum pratense, very plentiful in the meadow below Partick. This is an excellent
grass for permanent pasture, and for presenting a rich sward even among woods.
Agrostis stolonifera, on the banks of the Kelvin. This is a good grass for mossy
or wet land.
Poa fhiitans, in deserted beds of the Clyde, below Partick. The seeds, under the
name of manna-seeds, are sold in Holland and Germany, and imported into this
country, as a mild nourishing food. Its herbage contains a very great quantity of
saccharine matter. The farmer might find it advantageous to cultivate this grass
in situations which are frequently flooded, were he to raise parallel ridges, from
which the cattle might gather it out of the water.
Poa trivialis, in meadows on the banks of the Clyde.
Poa pratensis, very common.
Cynosurus cristatus, in dry pastures throughout the parish.
Lolium perenne, very common.
Anthoxanthum odoratum, on both banks of the Clyde. It is this grass, which smells
like woodruff, (Asperula odorata), and which gives its pleasant fragrance to
newly made hay. f'
* Denholm's History of Glasgow, pp. 97, 428, third edition.
•f- These grasses are not mentioned on account of their rarity, but merely with a
view to direct attention to their characters and qualities. Moist land, that hardly
maintains a green appearance, when sown only with common rye-grass and clover,
would be found more productive were it sown with the following grasses, and with
the quantities stated to the acre : One bushel of Page's perennial rye.grass ; one-half
bwfyelolAloppcufutpraienti*, (meadow foxtail-grass) ; six pounds of Poa trivia/is ;
five pounds of red clover; four pounds of white clover; and two pounds of yellow
clover. The following mixture, along with the proportions of rye-grass and clovers
which have now been specified, would be found advantageous in poor dry land : one-
quarter bushel of Fcstuca duriiiscula (hard fescue-grass) ; two pounds of Cynosurus
cristatus ; two pounds of Anthoxanthum odoratum ; and two pounds of Poa pratensis.
For the purpose of making a beautiful lawn, one-eighth bushel of Festnca ovina
(sheep's fescue-grass) ; and two pounds of Phleum pratense, should be substituted for
the red clover and the Fextucu duriuscula. These suggestions will be deemed more
valuable when it is stated that they are given on the authority of Mr Murray, the in-
telligent superintendent of the Glasgow Botanic Garden, to whom the writer is al-
most wholly indebted for the information contained under this head. Mr Murray
says it consists with his own knowledge, that among the larch woods about Dun-
keld and Blair- Athole, a grass rent of 10s. to 15s. the acre was annually obtained
674 LANARKSHIRE.
Galium verum, sandy bank* of the Clyde, below Partick. The milk of the best
Cheshire cheeses is said to be coagulated with this plant. Highlanders employ its
roots to produce a red dye. They boil them with the yarn, along with some alum,
to fix the colour.
Menyanthes trifoliata, below Partick, adjoining the Clyde. Its leaves, used as teafc
aie represented to be a good tonic.
Anagallis arvensis, sandy fields below Partick. Its flowers, which are of a beauti-
ful scarlet colour, close on the approach of a storm.
Verbascum thapsus, north banks of the Clyde below White Inch.
Adoxa moschatellina, foot of hedge below Partick.
Pyrola minor, in wood at Craig! on sparingly.
Nuphar lute*, deserted bed of the Clyde below Partick. The flowers, from their
smell, have obtained in England the name of brandy -bottles.
Cochlearia officinalis, abundant on the north bank of the Clyde, below the Kelvin.
Botryehium lunaria, grassy banks of the Clyde, below White- Inch.
Lichen rangiferinus, in mossy ground near Shieldhall. This- lichen forms the prin-
cipal food of the reindeer in Lapland.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Historical Events. — After the treaty had been concluded which
was agreed upon between the Queen Regent and the Protestant
party at Leith, on the 24th of July 1559, the confederate Lords
proceeded to Linlithgow, and afterwards to Stirling. They had
no confidence in the promises of the Queen Regent, and justly
feared that her object was, with the aid of French soldiers, to de-
prive them both of their civil and religious liberties. They there-
fore subscribed for their mutual defence a bond, in which they
pledged themselves to hold no communication with her without
each others knowledge and consent, and they resolved to have a
meeting with " their kin and friends upon Govan Muir,* beside
Glasgow." This meeting, however, the Queen Regent artfully
contrived to prevent, by writing to all suspected persons of note,
as if she had been perfectly assured of their friendship and loyal-
ty, under the pretext of apprising them of what was intended, and
praying them to hold themselves and their retainers in readiness to
assist her should their services be required. " Gouen-Mure, neire to
a hill called Langeside,"f is likewise signalized in Scottish history
as the place where the army of the ill-fated Mary was defeated,
after her escape from the Castle of Lochleven.
Eminent Men. — Constantine, King of Cornwall, having resign-
ed his crown, is represented, in the ancient chronicles of Scotland,
to have come to this country, from Ireland, in the train of St Co-
lumba, in the year 565, and to have founded a monastery at Govan,
of which he was the first abbot. It is also said that he was buried
from ground, which, previous to its being planted, did not yield Is. an acre, and
that, in this instance, the sward consisted almost wholly of Phleum pratense, with a
small portion of Aiiihoxanthum odoratum.
* Knox Hist, of Ref. p. 142. Glasg. 1831.
t Balfour's Annales of Scotland, Vol. i. p. 344.
4
GO VAN. 675
in his own monastery, after labouring to convert the inhabitants
of Kintyre, at whose hands he received martyrdom.*
Andrew Melville was the first minister of Govan after the Re-
formation. In consequence of the death of the Popish incum-
bent, the rectory and vicarage of Govan became vacant, during
the minority of James VI. The nephew of Melville tells us, that
the Regent Morton offered this " guid benefice, peying four-and-
twentie chalder of victuall," to his uncle, who was then Principal
of the University of Glasgow, on condition that he would not
press upon the church his views of ecclesiastical polity ; and in the
hope of ultimately gaining him over to his party, that the Regent
kept the living undisposed of for nearly two years. Morton dis-
covered, however, that Melville had too noble a mind to be wrought
upon by a sordid consideration. He therefore conveyed the tem-
poralities of the parish to the College of Glasgow, devolving upon
the principal the duty of serving the cure, with a view, says his
admiring and affectionate nephew, " to demearit Mr Andro, and
cause him relent from dealling against bischopes ; but God keepit
his awin servant in uprightnes and treuthe in the middis of manie
heavie tentationes." f Andrew Melville, along with some other
ministers, and the magistrates of Glasgow, has been charged with
having formed a deliberate design to demolish the cathedral, as a
monument of idolatry, and for the purpose of obtaining materials
with which to build other smaller churches. And the barbarous
intention, it is affirmed, was frustrated by the resolute conduct
alone of the craftsmen of the city. This story is not well authen-
ticated. There is no reference to it in the burgh records ; nor is
it once alluded to in the records of the privy-council, before whom,
it is said, the chief actors in the " little disturbance" were cited to
appear. It rests solely upon the authority of Archbishop Spots-
wood, whose prejudices may have rendered him credulous, and
who is known in other instances to have shown no indisposition to
give an unfavourable view of the conduct of the men with whom,
at one period of his life, he had appeared zealously to co-operate.^
* Forduni Scotichron. Tom. i. p. 130. Extracta e Chron. Scot. pp. 33-34,
MS. in Bib. Coll. Glasg.
f James Melville's Diary, p. 42.
f In consequence of an application for information as to this point to Thomas
Thomson, Esq. Deputy- Clerk Register, that gentleman, with his usual courtesy,
informs me that he has discovered nothing whatever on the subject of Spotswood's
" little disturbance" in the records of the privy-council of that period. With regard
to the weight that ought to be attached in this case to the unsupported testimony of
Spotswood, Dr M'Crie has pointed out, in the history which the archbishop wrote,
676 LANARKSHIRE.
What Middleton says of the transaction is evidently borrowed from
Spotswood. In a comparatively modern publication* it is stated
that the " cathedral was preserved at the Reformation from a rab-
ble that came to destroy it from the country, by the townsmen, who,
though zealous reformers, listened to the judicious remonstrances of
the chief magistrate : c I am for pulling down the High Church,'
said he, c but not till we have first built a new one.'" This is
another version of the affair. According to Spotswood, it was
not a rabble from the country, but the magistrates themselves,
who were prevented from destroying the cathedral, when, by tuck
of drum, they had collected workmen for the purpose. There
must, however, have been, one would think, some foundation
for the story. On the 7th of March 1587, " The commissioneris
appoyntit be ye kingis maiestie anet yair jugemetis to be gevin for
reparation of ye hie kirk, and haill brethrene of ye kirk and ses-
sioun of Glasgw thinkis gud yat ye lache stepillf be tane down to
repair ye mason work in ye said kirk, and bell and knok be trans-
portit to ye hiche stepill, and yat the kirk haif ane quoynzie left
at ye stepill foresaid for relief yairof."J Dr M'Crie, who found
this minute quoted, but not quite correctly, in Wodrow's MS.
Life of Mr David Weemes, asks with characteristic acuteness, if
this could be the order which occasioned the riot referred to by
Spotswood ? " If so," he says, § " it happened ten years after
Melville left Glasgow." What strengthens the conjecture of Dr
M'Crie is the fact, that the "lache stepill" or western tower was
actually not taken down, and that on the 5th of February 1589,
(OS.) the session ordered it to be inspected, "and ye decayt
places yairin to be sichtit and repairit." It is also worthy of no-
tice, that, on the 25th of April 1588, the session appointed certain
various instances of misrepresentation where Melville is concerned. And in one of
the original letters prefixed to Dr Burns's edition of the " History of the Sufferings
of the Church of Scotland," we find Wodrow (p. xxi.) expressing a wish that " the
unlucky turns that Spottiswood gives to matters, and the facts which, as a complete
party man, he suppresseth, were to be taken notice of, and his distngenuity exposed."
* Newte's Tour in England and Scotland, p. 67. London, 1791. That respec-
table personage, Andrew Fairservice, likewise' gives an account of what took place
on this occasion, which, though it is a little more particular, is no doubt equally au-
thentic with the others. — Waverley Novels, (Rob Roy,) Vol. viii. pp. 29-30.
f This resolution must be regarded as a proof of the good taste of the parties con-
cerned. Mr A. Maclellan, in his interesting " Essay on the Cathedral Church of
Glasgow," (Glasgow, 1833, 4to, p. 62,) says, regarding the laigh steeple and the
consistory house, that " placed in the most conspicuous situation, on approaching the
cathedral, they thrust their ungainly forms between it and the spectator — Their ar-
chitecture marks no period nor displays any thing but the poor ambition which could
be contented with creating even deformity."
£ Records of Glasgow Kirk-Session.
§ Life of Melville, Vol. i. p. 440.
GOVAN. 077
commissioners " to pas to ye lache kirk, onder the hie kirk, and
yair visie the paivmentis contenit yrin how far ye samein as yet re-
maines unstollen," and on the following day it is thought expe-
dient ". that rather the samein be transportit and tane away to mak
paivment in the lache kirk, callet the Blakfreir kirk, yn yat ye
samein sail be stollen and tane away."* This certainly was rather
an adventurous proceeding, on the supposition that, a few years
before, when it was proposed to make a quarry of the cathedral,
" the crafts of the city in a tumult took arms, swearing with many
oaths that he who cast the first stone should be buried under it."-f-
When Melville was translated to St Andrews in 1530, he was
succeeded by Mr Thomas Smeton, who was before his removal
to Glasgow minister of Paisley, and who, like his predecessor, was
considered one of the most learned men of his age. His appoint-
ment passed the Privy- Seal" on the 3d of January 15814 Sme-
ton was perfectly versed in the writings of the fathers. In early
life, after spending some time in Paris, he went to Rome, where
he was received into the Society of Jesuits. He afterwards re-
* Records of Glasgow Kirk-Session.
t Spotswood, History, p. 304. The truth is, it was mainly owing to the consistory
or kirk-session of Glasgow, that the cathedral was preserved in those days from fall-
ing into ruins. Along with the provost and magistrates, the principal and regents of
the University, and the ministers of certain parishes in the country, the most intel-
ligent and influential of the inhabitants of the city, were members of that body. The
oldest record of their transactions which has been preserved begins with the year
1583. From this record, it appears that, on the 20th of October 1586, the session,
considering it " yair dewtie to be cairfull for to see ye rewins of ye kirk repairit, and
finding ye matter of greit importance," applied to the magistrates and council to " find
out sum gud overture howe ye said kirk may be repairit." This application was re-
newed on the 3d of November. On the 7th of December 1587, the session thought
it right that the deacons of the different crafts should meet with the provost, bailies,
and council, " to gif yair avise and jugement" respecting the reparation of the high
kirk. On the 25th of January following, commissioners were sent to the General
Assembly by the session, to petition for " ane commission wi licens fra ye kingis
majestic for reparation of ye hie kirk of Glasgw, the best way the toun and paro-
chin of ye samein may." Another royal commission was applied for through the
magistrates and council, on the 1st of August 1588. Accordingly, Mr Andrew Hay,
parson of Renfrew, as we find from a minute of the 30th January thereafter, received
the King's letters, " to nominate stenteris for stenting to repair the hie kirk." The
Duke of Lennox on the 21st of November 1588, and the prior of Blantyre on the
17th of July 1589, were requested by the session to do their "part in repairing of ye
queir of Glasgw." On the 13th of November 1589, the magistrates and session una-
nimously resolved, that the whole of the penalties that might be received by the ses-
sion, in all time coming, should be " allenevlie imployed upon ye repairing of ye kirk
and kirk work, be ye mutuall avyse of ye mgratis and sessioun." And on the 23d of
April 1590, the session ordained that all the canons of Glasgow should " be urgit for
ye reparation of the kiik of Glasgw, and specialie ye chapter- house yairof." These
and similar extracts, which might be produced, may serve to show that the Reformers
of Scotland were not the Vandals they have been represented to be, and that iri Glas-
gow the leading men among them were justly proud of their magnificent cathedral.
* Register of Privy-Seal, Vol. xlvii. fol. 61. M'Crie's Life of Melville, Vol. i.
p. 207.
LANARK. X X
678 LANARKSHIRE.
visited Paris, and was in that city at the time of the massacre of St
Bartholomew. In the course of eight days, according to Sully,*
70,000 Protestants were put to death in the city and provinces.
The Pope ordered a Te Deum to be sung, and medals to be
struck in honour of the event. And the famous Muretus, whom
the perfidious Charles dispatched to Rome to communicate the
intelligence, delivered in the presence of the Pope an elaborate
oration, in which he declared, that " the River Seine rolled on with
greater majesty after having received the- carcases of the murder-
ed heretics."f It was known in Paris that Smeton had embraced
the doctrines of the Reformation. He escaped, therefore, the fate
of the unhappy Huguenots, solely through the intervention of Sir
Thomas Walsingham, the English embassador, in whose house he
took refuge, and whom he accompanied to England. He died in
Glasgow on the 13th December 1583, in the forty-seventh year of
his age, and was buried in the cathedral, j An epitaph in honour
of Thomas Smeton and Alexander Arbuthnot, who was Principal
of King's College, Aberdeen, and who died the same year, was
composed by their friend and distinguished coadjutor, Andrew Mel-
ville. He describes them as " two luminaries of our nation lately
extinguished in the north, and in the meridian of their glory."
But it is easy to see from the language he employs, that if he had
great respect for Arbuthnot, Smeton j had attracted a still larger
share of his admiration and esteem.
* Memoirs of Sully, Vol. i. p. 45. London, 1810.
f Christ. Observ. Vol. xxxv. p. 478,
£ Spotswood's Hist. p. 335. Baillie's Letters, Vol. iii. p. 886, MSS. in Bib.
Coll. Glas. Wodrow's Life of Smeton, MSS. in Bib. Coll. Glas. Mackenzie's
Scenes, Vol. iii. p. 194. M'Crie's Life of Melville, Vol. i. pp. 117, 283.
§ " Vix heu, vix raptumdeflevimus Arbuthnetum,
Vix heu justa datis solvirnus inferiis :
Et premit altera mors, et fun ere fun us acei'bat :
Kt magno extincto lumine majus obit.
Ille quidem Arctoa tenebras de nocte fugabat,
Fulgebas medio Glasgua Stella die.
Quod si luce sua spoliata est ndxque diesque
Nostra, eheu quantis obruimur tenebris !
Aut ergo e tenebris revoca lucem : aut hominum lux
Christe redi ; ut nobis stet sine nocte dies." —
Delitiae Poet. Scot. Tom. ii. p. 121.
In a letter to John Row, dated January 18, 1578, Smeton is thus characterized by
Melville, " Smetonius acerrimus bonae causae propugnator." — (MSS. in Bib. Adv.
M'Crie's Life of Melville, 'Vol. i. p. 185, note.) When Hamilton, the apostate, pub-
lished a book full of furious invective, and libellous charges against the Protestants of
Scotland, Smeton was urged by his friend, Andrew Melville, to write a reply to it.
This he undertook to do, and in a very short time, he produced a work which, for the
keenness of its reproofs, the force of its reasoning, its classical diction, and profound
learning, is justly entitled to a distinguished place among the writings of that age.
GOVAN. (J79
The last Principal of the College of Glasgow, who officiated
as minister of Govan, was Mr Robert Boyd of Trochrig. His
father was Archbishop of Glasgow, nephew of Robert Lord Boyd,
and grandson of David Earl of Cassillis, and great-grandson of
Robert, Earl of Arran. There is a memoir of Robert Boyd,
written by the indefatigable Wodrow, among his unpublished
MSS. in the Library of the College of Glasgow. * When com-
piling it, Wodrow had access to some valuable papers in the pos-
session of the Trochrig family. It is full of minute and interesting
details, which illustrate the manners of the times, and throw con-
siderable light on an important period in the history of our own
church, and of the Protestant Church of France. The title is
itself an epitome of Boyd's Life, -f- The early part of his educa-
tion was. received in the academy at Ayr. After graduating at
Edinburgh in 1595, he left Scotland, on his way to France, on
the 1st of May 1597. | Learned Scotsmen were at this time
resident in almost all the universities and colleges of that country.
In some of these, most of the professors were natives of Scotland.
Boyd soon found himself, therefore, surrounded by his countrymen.
During the greater part of the time he lived abroad, Boyd was
connected with the University of Saumure. § It was chiefly through
It is dedicated to King James, and has this title, " Ad virulentum Archibald! Ha-
miltonii Apostatae Dialogum, De, Confusione Calvinianae Sectae Apud Scotos, Impie
Consciiptum Orthodoxa Responsio, Edinburgi, 1579." There is in it an account of
the last hours of John Knox, by one " qui ad extremura vsque spiritum aegrotanti
assedit." The following affecting description, which has the vivid colouring of a pic-
ture by an eye-witness, is likewise given of the horrible atrocities of St Bartholomew's
Eve. " Nulla cani capitis reverentia, nulla doctissimorum hominum ratio habita
fuit. Grandaevje matres, virgines, puellas, ipsique infantes abstract! uberibus, misero-
que partu jam instante mulieres partim pedibus sicariorum calcantur in plateis, par-
tim vero unco in Sequanum trahuntur, paucos carceri committunt, quos statim postea
horribiliter trucidant," p. 117. Dempster pronounces Smeton's work to be "opus
verborum ornatu non inelegans," though his prejudices as a Roman Catholic lead
him to add, as might bo expected, " sed doctrina vacuum." (Hist. Eccl. Scot. Tom.
ii. p. 586.) In 1581, the General Assembly appointed "ane method of preaching to
be printed and put in Scotts be Mr Thomas Smeton." Booke of the Universall Kirk,
edited by A. Peterkin, p. 219.
* Wodrow MSS. Vol. xv.
t The title is, " Collections on the Life of Mr Robert Boyd of Trochrige, in the
shire of Air and bailayrie of Car rick. Professor of Philosophy in the Colledge of
Montauban, Minister of the Gospel in the Church of Vertuile, and Pastor and Pro-
fessor of Theology in the University of Saumure, in France ; and Principal of the
University of Glasgow, Minister and Professor of Divinity at Edinburgh, and Mi-
nister at Paisley."
f The celebrated Andrew Revet states erroneously, that his friend arrived in
France in 1604. Robertii Bodii Prelectiones in Epistolam ad Ephesios, Andreac
Riveti Epistola. p. 2. Londini, 1652.
§ In that university, in 1612, there were two Professors of Divinity, one Professor
of Hebrew,1 one Professor of Greek, two Professors of Philosophy, and five Regents.
Quick's Synodicon, Vol. i p. 388.
680
LANARKSHIRE.
the influence of Duplessis Mornay,* whose friendship he enjoyed
till his death, that he was removed from Vertuille to that univer-
sity. In October 1614, having been appointed by King James
to preside over the University of Glasgow, he left Saumure, along
with a French lady, whom he had married but a short time before.
They came to England by Dieppe, and, after spending a few
days in London, proceeded to Scotland, f At his installation, as
Principal of the University of Glasgow, Boyd stipulated that he
should be allowed to make a trial of his office for one year ; that
he should not be called upon to undertake all that the Principal
was required to do by the foundation charter, which he did not
think any one man could perform ; and that he should be excused
from correcting the students j with his own hands, and from taking
* " Mornay, .
Servit egalement son eglise et la France
Censeur des courtisans, mais a la cour aim£ ;
Fier enemi de Rome, et de Rome estimeV'
La Henriade, chant premier, vers 151. " Duplessis Mornay le plus vertueux et
le plus grand homme du parti Protestant naquit a Buy le 5 Novembre 1549. II sa-
vait le Latin et le Grec parfaitement, et PHebreu autant qu'on le peut savoir : ce
qui etait un prodige alors dans un gentilhomme. II servit sa religion et son maitre
de sa plume et de son epee." — Note de 1'Editeur.
f The following extracts from Wodrow's Life of Boyd may be gratifying to poli-
tical and domestic economists: " He agreed with a coachman at London, and gave
him L. 24 Sterling for his coach and four horses to take him and his family to Edin-
burgh, the coachman paying for the horses by the way. They parted from London,
November 24, and arrived at Edinburgh in seventeen days, upon the 10th of De-
cember, and were generally speaking, K)s. a-day for their own and the coachman's
meat. From Edinburgh they came to Glasgow upon Thursday, December 31st, and
lodged with Sir George Elphinstown of Blythswood [who was married to a daughter
of Lord Boyd,] till January 27, 1615." (p. 68.) " He observes, that when he came
to Glasgow, he gave Mr Taylour, for coming to his wife an hour every day, and
teaching her to read English, for about three months, an angclot, value 10 merks."
(p. 71.) The items next mentioned, will startle, I have no doubt, the modern
comptrollers of some presbytery clubs. " He ate, save when abroad, every month
at the presbytery, and they paid 6d. a-piece for their dinner, and sometimes 8d. a-
piece when they called for wine. I find him very charitable, and giving largely to
poor objects, and particularly to some Flemish and other foreigners in straits. No
small branch of his outgoings is for books." (p. 74.) " He gives sometimes nineteen
merks, sometimes eighteen, for a carcass of beef." Ibid. The contrast between the
former and the present state of Glasgow will appear strange to some, when they find
that he procured " most of his furniture from Edinburgh and London, — his clothes
for himself and his lady, their pouther [pewter?] their chairs, and all kinds of spices
and drugs, and what they needed in physic, and all his candle. It seems he could
not be provided in those in Glasgow." Eor a horse to Govan, " he gave 8d., and,
at lowest, half a merk ; to Paisley, Is. 6d." Wodrow, who died in 1734, thinks
these charges quite exorbitant. He is therefore disposed to think they must have
included a charge for an additional horse for the servant of the Principal. Ibid.
£ V odrow's Life of Boyd, p. 70. He made a similar stipulation in the presence
of the magistrates and council, before he entered upon the duties of his office as
Principal of the University of Edinburgh. He wast)f opinion, that to have things
well ordered, and good manners duly maintained and observed, " personal castigation
of the students was necessary." But for him to inflict this, besides being repugnant
to his nature, and at variance with his former practice, he thought would be incon-
sistent with his sacred character. He admitted that his predecessor at Glasgow, Mi-
Patrick Sharp, was not of this mind. But then, said he, Mr Sharp merely conti-
GOVAN. 081
his place at the college table. The violent proceedings of Arch-
bishop Law, in enforcing conformity, excited the indignation of
Boyd. That prelate went to some young men, who were at that
time attending the university, whom he saw seated at the commu-
nion table, and commanded them to rise, if they would not receive
the elements in a kneeling posture. One of these was Mr John
Livingston, who was afterwards minister of Ancrum. The next
day, the Principal told Mr Livingston, that, in the course of two
or three weeks, he was to celebrate the communion at Govan,
when he, and any of his companions who might choose to accom-
pany him, would have an opportunity of communicating in the
manner they had been accustomed to do. Along with Mr Ro-
bert Blair and the other regents of the university, he likewise ex-
postulated with the Archbishop for driving from the communion
table those whom Christ would welcome, adding, " that the table
was not his, but Christ's, and yet he had dealt as imperiously as
if removing his horse-boys from the bye-board." * When Boyd
demitted his office as Principal in 1621, he wished to retain his
charge as minister of Govan. But he was not permitted to do
this. He died at Edinburgh, on the 5th of January 1627, in the
49th year of his age. " He spoke and wrott Latine most nativly
and fluently," says Mr John Livingston, f "I have heard him
say that, if he were to choose a language wherein to deliver his
minde with the most ready freedom, it would be the Greek tongue."
According to Mr Matthew Crawford, J the predecessor of Wod-
fow at Eastwood, it was said of Boyd, that " he was more elo-
quent in the French than in his mother tongue, more eloquent in
the Latin than in the French, and more eloquent in Greek than
in Latin." Nor is the testimony of a learned foreigner less ho-
nourable to him. Andrew Rivet, § who was pastor of the church
nued " his wonted custom whereunto he was inured in the grammar school," from
which he was removed to be Principal of the university. What he proposed, there-
fore, was, that the oldest regent, or sub-principal, should correct offenders, or that
each of the regents should, under the direction of the Principal, correct his own
students. Ib. p. 172. See also M'Crie's Life of Melville, Vol. i. p. 83. Milton, ac-
cording to his learned biographer, was one of the last students who suffered the in-
dignity of corporal correction at Oxford.
* Life of Mr Robert Blair, written by himself, p. 37. Life of Mr John Living,
ston, written by himself, p. 6.
f Livingston's Remarkable Observations, p. 41, MS. in Bib. Ad.
$ Wodrow's Life of Boyd, p. 119. § And. lliveti Epist. ut supra.
The following works of Robert Boyd have been published : 1 . " Praelectiones in
Epistolam ad Ephesios," fol Londini, 1652. This was a posthumous work. Pre-
fixed to it is an epistle by Andrew Rivet " De vita, scriptis, moribus, et felici exitu,
Roberti Bodii." This is followed by an " Epistola ad Lectorem," from Principal
Baillie, who studied under Boyd at Glasgow, and held his memory in profound ve-
neration. 2. Monita de filii sui primogeniti institutione, 8vo, 1701. 3. »* Heca-
682 LANARKSHIRE.
of Touars, and with whom Boyd resided for some time, when he
first went to France, declares that he had acquired as great faci-
lity in the use of the Greek and Latin languages, as he had of
his vernacular tongue, and, moreover, along with a pure pronun-
ciation, that he had as perfect a command of French.
Some notice must likewise be taken of Mr Hugh Binning, who
has been justly. characterized* as " an extraordinary instance of
precocious learning and genius." At the early age of nineteen,
he succeeded as Regent of Philosophy the celebrated James Dal-
rymple,f who was afterwards President of the Court of Session, and
Viscount Stair. As minister of Govan, he was the successor
of Mr William Wilkie. His ordination took place on the 8th of
January 1649, when Mr David Dickson, one of the theological
professors in the College of Glasgow, and author of " Therapeu-
tica Sacra," presided. J When Cromwell came to Glasgow in
tombe Christiana," which is dedicated u Reverendo Praesuli agnato et amico suo
charissimo D. Andreae Bodio Argatheliae Antistiti dignissimo." Both of these have
been printed among the " Delicia? Poetarum Scotorum," Tom. i. p. 208. Boyd
also composed a laudatory poem on King James, which may be seen in Adamsoii's
" Muse's Welcome," and* which, as is observed by Mr Chambers, the author of the
" Lives of Illustrious and Distinguished Scotsmen," appears to have been overlooked
by Wodrow.
* Chambers's Lives, Vol. i. p. 208.
•f It was the practice at that time, when a regent's office was vacant, to cause a
programme to be placed over the college gate, announcing that the situation was to
be filled up on a certain day, and that it should be given to the individual, who, af-
ter competition, should be pronounced to be dignior et doctlor. Mr James Dal-
rymple, who was then a captain in the army, and not more than twenty-two years of
age, was thus induced to present himself as a candidate for the office, and was elected,
after sustaining in buff and scarlet, the military uniform of those days, a public dis-
putation with the other pompetitors. (Binning's Life prefixed to his works, p. 5.
Glasgow, 1768, Report of University Commissioners, 1830, p. 221.) The day of
election was " IV. Id Martii, 1641," (Annales Coll. Glasg.) In the same year,
the salaries of the regents were raised to 500 merks, " by reason of the dear rate of
all things." The appointment of Hugh Binning as successor to Dalrymple is dated
« iiij Cal Nov. 1646." Id.
J Glasgow Presbytery Records. In the printed life of Binning, it is stated (p.
7,) that before his time, " whoever was principal of the College of Glasgow was also
minister of Govan." This is a mistake. Wodrow is likewise wrong when he says,
that " Mr William Wilky seems to have been the first separate minister of Govan."
(Life of Mr David Weemes, Wodrow MSS. Vol. xv. p. 37.) The first minister
of Govan, who did not at the same time hold the office of Principal of the University,
was Mr James Sharpe. In a " Contract about the stipend of Mr Sharpe, minister
of Govan, 1637," it is set forth, that " be an act of ye governors and masters of the
said Universitie and Colledge, maid the twentie day of December, the year of God
jai vi and twentie-ane, It was appointit, that ye kirk of ye parochin of Govane, qrof
for a lang space the principall of the said Colledge was minister, sould therefter be
served be ane other to be minister, resident at the said kirk ;" and further, that, " ac-
cording to the qlk act, the said Mr James Scharpe was admitted minister of Govane."
It is then agreed that, in addition to the manse and glebe, the stipend of Mr Sharpe
should be increased to " fyve hundredth merks usuall money of the realme, twentie-four
bollis beir and eight bollis meil, or the price of ye said victual!, according to ye yeirliefeirs
modified -be ye Comrs. of Glasgow, togedder with ye whole mailis and duties to be payed
to ye tacksman of ye vicarage of ye small teinds." (College Papers, MSS.) When the
office of minister of Govan was disjoined from that of the Principal, the former was
GOVAN. 683
1651, a discussion on some of the controverted points of the times
was held in his presence, between his chaplains, the learned Dr
John Owen, Joseph Caryl, and others on the one side, and some
Scots ministers on the other. Mr Binning, who was one of the
disputants, nonplused, it is said, the Independents, which led
Cromwell to ask, who was that learned and bold young man ? His
name, he was told, was Binning. " He hath bound well, indeed,"
said he, " but," laying his hand on his sword, " this will loose all
again.''* The late Mr Orme f was of opinion that there is no-
thing improbable in the account of the meeting. But that such
a meeting took place is absolutely certain. This appears from
two letters which were written by Principal Baillie, who was at
that time Professor of Theology in the University of Glasgow. J
bound to " read some public lecture in the common schools of the College, as shall
be prescribed to him by the officers of the University and Masters of the College."
( Account of University of Glasgow, [written by Dr Thomas Reid, Prof, of Moral
Phil.] in former Statistical Account of Scotland, Vol. xxi. Append, p. 24.)
For a number of years previous to this, the non-residence of the minister of Govan
was felt to be a grievance, and complained of by the parishioners. At a presbyterial
visitation on the 1st of June 1596, " It is fund yt yair is na residence of a mist, at
the kirk of Govane, qlk is havelie lametit be ye elderis of ye kirk of Govane." (Glasg.
Presb. Rec.) " It is fund and lametit," at a subsequent visitation, on the 12th of
February 1606, " yat yair is not ane to teiche ye youthe of ye parochin of Govane
dwelland besyde ye kirk yairof, quha may avaitt on ye effairis of ye said kirk, and do
his dewtie yairuntill, as salbe injoynit to him. And yis is ordenit as a refer to be
comettit to ye nixt Synod,That yeSynod may give yair jugemet and declaratiuon anet."
(Id.) Charles I. granted to the College a charter of confirmation and novodamus,
under the Great Seal, dated St James's, 28th June 1630, which was ratified on the
28th of June 1633, by an Act of the Parliament of Scotland. This charter gave full
power to the College to present a qualified person to the church and parish of Govan,
their presentee being astricted to reside in the parish. The words of the charter are,
" Cum plena et speciali potestate, moderatoribus dicti Collegii de Glasgow presenti-
bus, eorumque successoribus in futurum, elegendi, nominandi, seu presentandi et
acceptandi ministrum pro deservitione curse apud dictam ecclesiam de Govan, qui
praestabit suam actualem residentiam apud dictam ecclesiam." (Information for He-
ritors of Govan, against Principal and Professors of the College of Glasgow, 1795,
p. 19. Glasg. Presb. Rec. 18th June 1746.) During the time that Episcopacy was
established in this country, the College of Glasgow appointed " one of their number
to vote at the election of the Archbishop of Glasgow," as Govan had been a prebend
of the cathedral. Parishes in Scotland, p. 208, Macfarlan MSS. in Bib. Ad.
* Biog. Scot. p. 169. Dumfries, 1835. f Memoirs of Dr Owen, pp. 93, 96.
% In a letter dated April 22, 1651, and addressed to Mr Robert Douglas, Baillie
says, after mentioning that Cromwell had unexpectedly made his appearance in
Glasgow, with the principal part of his army, and had gone to hear sermon on the
Sunday, in the forenoon to the Inner Church, and in the afternoon to the Outer
Church, " That night some of the army, were trying if the ministers would be pleased
of their own accord to confer with their general. When none had shown any willing-
ness, on Monday a gentleman from Cromwell came to the most of the brethren severally
desiring, yea requiring them, and the rest of the ministry in town, to come and speak
with their general. All of us did meet to advise, and after some debate we were
content all to go and hear what would be said. When we came, he spoke long and
smoothly, showing the scandal himself and others had taken at the doctrine they had
heard preached, especially that they were condemned, 1. as unjust invaders ; 2. as
contemners and tramplers under foot of the ordinances ; 3. as persecutors of the minis-
ters of Ireland. That, as they were unwilling to offend us by a public contradicting
684 LANARKSHIRE,
After a short bnt brilliant career, Binning died of consumption in
September 1653, before he had completed his twenty-seventh year.
A marble tablet, with an inscription in classical Latin, was erected
to his memory by his friend Mr Patrick Gillespie, who was then
Principal of the University of Glasgow. It has been placed in
the vestibule of the present parish church. Binning was styled
by his contemporaries the Scots Cicero. The whole of his works
are posthumous publications.*
Land-owners. — The lands and frarony of Gorbals, which con-
sist of 515 acres, belong to the patrons of Hutcheson's Hospital,
the corporation of Glasgow, and the incorporated trades of that
city. They were bought from Sir Robert Douglas of Blaickerton
in 1650, and were held in cumulo till the year 1 789, when they
were divided by the three corporations who now possess them, ac-
cording to their respective interests. The valued rent of Hutche-
son's Hospital is L. 500 Scots ; that of the corporation of Glas-
gow and of the incorporated trades is L.250 Scots each.f The
other principal landed proprietors are, Miss Oswald of Scotstown;
Sir John Maxwell of Pollok, Bart. ; Alexander Speirs, Esq. of
Elderslie, M. P. ; James Smith, Esq. of Jordanhill ; Alexander
Johnstone, Esq. of Shieldhall ; Moses Steven, Esq. of Bellahous-
in the church, so they expected we would be willing to give them a reason when they
craved it in private. We showed our willingness to give a reason either for these three,
or what else was excepted against in any of our sermons. The time appointed for this
was this day at two o'clock at Cromwell's lodgings ; but this morning he sent us word
it would be to-morrow, and at that same time and place he would attend us." (MSS.
Letters. Vol. iii. pp. 286-288, in Bib. Coll. Glasg.) In another letter, addressed to Mr
Andrew Ker, dated Friday, May 2, 1651, Baillie says, " How our conference with
Cromwell was contrived, or for what ends, I may well guess, but can affirm nothing.
It was put on us that we could not decline it. You will see the sum. of it drawn up
by Mr James Guthrie and Mr Patrick Gillespie, the main speakers. We had no
disadvantage in the thing." (Id. p. 290.) Two volumes of Principal Baillie 's
Letters were published in 1775, at the suggestion of Dr Robertson, the historian, and
Mr David Hume. When a new edition is presented to the public, which has been
long called for, it will contain, it is to be hoped, the entire collection. Many other
letters, besides those which have been quoted, which are not found in the two printed
volumes, are full of interest. In 1648, when Cromwell first came to Edinburgh, he
had likewise a conference there with some of the Scots clergy on religious topics. Mr
Robert Blair, who was chaplain to Charles I. was one of those who were appointed
by the Commission of the Assembly to meet with him. As usual, Cromwell shed
abundance of tears. On leaving the house, however, Blair said somewhat roughly to
Mr David Dickson and Mr James Guthrie,<his two associates, who had been imposed
upon by Cromwell's professions, " If ye knew him as well as I do, ye would not be-
lieve a word he says. He is an egregious dissembler, and a great liar." Life of Blair,
p. 108.
* Messrs A. Fullerton & Co. of Glasgow have now in the press an edition of the
works of Hugh Binning, with notes and a preliminary commentary by the writer of
this account. Another edition, at present publishing by Messrs William Whyte
& Co. Edinburgh, is intended to form part of their *' Select Library of Scottish
Divines."
•j Hist, of Hutcheson's Hospital, pp. 48-57.
GOVAN. 686
toun ; George Rowan, Esq. of Holmfauldhead, &c. The valued
rental of the parish is nearly L. 5000 Scots. After the Reforma-
tion, a commission was granted to Walter, Commendator of Blan-
tyre, to feu the lands of the lordship and regality of Glasgow, " to
the effect," says Hamilton of Wishaw, " that the tenents, being
thereby become heretable possessors of their severall possessions,
might be incouradged by vertue and politic to improve that coun-
try."* The following is a list of the names and properties of cer-
tain heritors in the parish of Govan, who previously possessed their
lands as the rentallers of the Archbishop, and who, in the year
1595, united in obtaining a charter of confirmation from James
VI. The list is taken from this charter.
George Gilmour of the 10s. land in Little Govan.
John Anderson Junior, of the 15s. land there.
David Boll of the 10s. land there.
James Murdoch of the 20s. land there.
William Stevine, son of Thomas Stevine, in Meikle Govan, of the 12s. 6d. land
there.
The said William Stevine of three acres of mill lands there.
John Gibson in fee, and Elizabeth Turnbull, widow of John Gibson, in liferent
of the 25s. land in Meikle Govan.
James Anderson of 6s. 3d. land there.
Mrs Henry Gibsone in
Thomas Clydsdaille in liferent, and George Clydsdaille in fee of the 6s. 3d. land
there.
Andrew Watson of the 6s. 3d. land there.
James Rowand in east end of the 1 8s. 9d. land there.
James Sellare there, of the 12s. 6d. land there.
John Anderson, otherwise Mathie there, of the 6s. 3d. land there.
Thomas Hill, son of Mr Laures Hill there, of the 25s. land in Ybrocks (Ibrox.)
William^ Hill of the 18s. 9d. land there.
James Anderson, son of David Anderson, of the 12s. 6d. land there.
John Hill of the 21s. 3d. land there.
Margaret Gibsone in liferent, and Janet Rowand, also in liferent, her daughter, of
the 18s. 9d. land there.
John Rowand of the 6s. 3d. land there, which formerly belonged to John Ander-
son, son of Walter Anderson.
Andrew Hill of the 25s. land there.
Thomas M'Nair, son of John M'Nair, of the 18s. 9d. land there, formerly be-
longing to John Semple.
Thomas M'Nair Senior, in liferent, and James M'Nair, his son, in fee, of the 25s.
land there.
John Rowand, son of Thomas Rowand, of the 25s. land there.
The said John Rowand, in east end of Meikle Govan, of the three acres of mill
lands there.
Robert Andersone of the 6s. 3d. land there.
Andrew Patersone of the 12s. 6d. land there.
James Rowand Junior, of the 37s. 6d. land there.
The said James Rowand of 6s. 3d. land there, which formerly belonged to John
Clunie.
John Paterson, son of Andrew Paterson, of the 6s. 3d. land there.
Patrick Johnstone of the 12s. 6d. land there.
* Description of Sheriffdom of Lanark, p. 28. Great Seal Record, B. 37, No.
108. Gibson's Hist, of Glasg. p. 61.
686 LANARKSHIRE.
Stephane Rowand Junior, of the 18s. 9d. land there.
Janet Hill in liferent, and Thomas Gibson her son, in fee of the 12s. 6d. land
there.
James Rankine of the 6s. 3d. land there.
John Rowand or Greenhead of the L. 3, 15s. land in Meikle Govane.
John M'Nair, in Ferric Boats, of -the 12s. 6d. land there.
Michael Hutcheson, in Westshiells, of the 34s. land there.
The said Michael Hutcheson of the 8s. 8d. land of Balshegrae.
Isobell Snodgrass in liferent, and John Sheills, her son, in fee of the 30s. land in
Westsheills.
Andrew Patersone Senior, in liferent, and John Paterson, his nephew, in fee of the
21s. 8d. land there.
The said Andrew Patersone of the 19s. land there.
Marion Scott in liferent, and William Elphinstone, her son, in fee of the 15s. land
there.
John Hutchesone, brother of the said Michael Hutchesone, of the 13s. 4d. land
there.
Patrick Brownsyde of the 4s. 4d. land there.
Walter M'Nair there, of the 13s. 4d. land there.
Matthew Montgomerie of the 15s. 8d. land there.
Patrick Matthew in liferent, and John Stewart de Rossland* in fee of the 4s. 4d.
land there.
The said John Stewart of Rossland, of the 4s. 4d. land there, formerly belonging
to Walter Rowand.
The said John Stewart of the other 8s. 8d. land in Belshagrae.
William Alexander there, of the 4s. 4d. land there.
John Rowand, son of John Rowand there, of the 4s. 4d. land there.
John Reid and Robert Hutcheson in Garthnavil, of the 8s. lid. land there.
William Anderson of the 8s. lid. land there.
John Shanks of the 8s. lid. land there.
James Gibsone, in Balgray, of the 12s. 6d. land there.
John and Bartholomew Duncans of the 12s. 6d. land there.
Robert Hutchesone there, of the 12s. 6d. land there.
The said Mr Henry Gibsone of the 12s. 6d. land there.
Agnes Gibsone, in Hyndland, in liferent, and Ninian Dennistoune, her son, in fee
of the 5s. land in Hyndland.
John Sheills and William Robertson in Partick of the 13s. 4d. land there.
Robert Allaneson of the 6s. 8d. land there.
William Sheills, there, of the 20s. land there.
John Allan of the 6s. 8d. land there.
Thomas Shanks of the 13s. 4d. land there.
Walter Craig of the 6s. 8d. land there.
John Alexander of the 6s. 8d. land there.
John Crawford of the 6s. 8d. land there-
William Younger of the 6s. 8d. land, which formerly belonged to William Harvie,
and of the 26s. 8d. land, and of the yard called the Bishop's Orchard, and of
the 6s. 8d. land, called Browland, and of three acres of mill lands there.
John Cuming, in Byres of Partick, of the 20s. land there.
The heritors of Govan still pay to the Crown, as coming in
place of the Archbishop, the following annual feu-duties, which
are understood to be nearly the same in amount as the rents which
were drawn by the church before the Reformation :
Scots money, - - - - L. 91 16 7|f
B. F. P.
Meal, - 391 1 Off
* This John Stewart of Ilossland is elsewhere described in the charter as holding
" the office of forester and custodier of the new forest called the Park of Partick."
GOVAN. 687
B. F. P.
Barley, - - - 1 2 Hf
Com, 41 2 2H
Capons, - 111 fa
Poultry, - 106^
Salmon, 92T\
Previous to the year 1825, the College of Glasgow for more
than a century enjoyed, by successive renewals from the Crown,
a beneficial lease of these and other rents and revenues, which for-
merly belonged to the Archbishopric of Glasgow. Since then
the lease has not been renewed. But in lieu of it, on the 7th of
August 1826, His Majesty George IV. was pleased to grant to
the College an annuity of L. 800 for fourteen years.* The teinds
of the parish, which are the property of the College, subject to
the payment of the minister's stipend, are nearly all valued. These
amount annually to about L. 940.
Parochial Registers. — The records of the kirk-session contain
an uninterrupted history of its proceedings from January 15, 1710.
Some years ago, an old volume was discovered, and restored to the
session, by the descendants of a former elder of the parish. It
commences with the 15th of May 1651, and ends with the llth
of May 1662. The date of the earliest entry in the register of
baptisms and marriages is July 2, 1690. In the year 1729, in
place of the baptisms, the births of children were, for the first
time, recorded. Since the year 1817, a list of the interments in
the parish churchyard has been kept.*f
Hospital of Polmadie: — Persons of both sexes were admitted
into this asylum, which was dedicated to St John, and maintained
in it during life. The church and/ temporalities of Strathblane
were annexed to it, along with a part of the lands of Little Govan.f
The privileges of the hospital were confirmed by Alexander III.,
and afterward by Robert Bruce, at Rutherglen, in the eleventh
year of his reign ; and in 1333, a charter of exemption was grant-
ed by the Earl of Lennox. § Patrick de Floker was made master
of the brothers and sisters, and pensioners of the hospital of Pol-
madie, in 1316, by Robert Wiseheart, || Bishop of Glasgow, who
* Rep. of Com. for visiting Univ. of Glasgow, 1839, p. 19.
•f It will be seen from the following minute in the session records of this parish,
that the compulsory plan of education adopted in Prussia is not altogether an origi-
nal system. " The samen day (June 26, 1653) the session does ordain that everie
elder in their severall qrters do search who have children able and fit to come to
schoole, and does not send them, to deall wt them for that effect, and to signifie that
if they prove deficient hereinto, according to an old act of session, they will be oblidg-
ed to pay their qrtcr, as well as if they came to this schooll."
J Cart. Glasg. Tom. i. p. 329. § Id. pp. 306, 365. || Id. p. 319.
688 LANARKSHIRE.
died the same year. In 1319, William de Houk was nomi-
nated to the same office by Edward II. ;* and William de Kirkyn-
tullach by Queen Margaret, f May 18, 1367. The master and
brothers of the hospital of Polmadie received a precept from bishop
Glendoning,J dated May 10, 1391, commanding them to receive
Gillian de Vaux as a sister and portioner. William de Cunyng-
ham,§ Vicar of Dundonald, was appointed to the mastership of
the hospital by the Earl of Lennox. But Bishop Glendoning laid
claim to the right of presentation. He, therefore, commanded
William de Cunyngham to give up his charge, under the pain of
excommunication. And on the 7th of January 1424, in the west
chapel of the Castle of Edinburgh, Duncan, Earl of Lennox, for-
mally surrendered to William Lauder, Bishop of Glasgow and
Chancellor of the kingdom, || any real or supposed right he had to
present to the mastership of the Hospital of Polmadie, and to the
church of Strathblane. In the year 1427, Bishop Cameron, with
the consent of the chapter, erected the Hospital of Polmadie and
the church of Strathblane into, a prebend of his cathedral. The
erection was confirmed by a bull of Pope Martin V. The per-
son collated to this prebend was required to provide for the sup-
port of a vicar in the parish of Strathblane, and to give salaries to
four boys to sing in the choir of the cathedral.f The " vestiges
of religious houses" ** which were to be seen towards the end of
the last century in the neighbourhood of Polmadie, but which are
not visible now, were, it cannot be doubted, the ruins of the hos-
pital. v
St Ninian's Hospital. — Leprosy was formerly so prevalent in
this country as to claim the attention of th'e Scottish Parliament.ff
About the middle of the fourteenth century, an hospital for the
reception of persons afflicted with this frightful distemper was
founded by Lady Lochow, the daughter of Robert Duke of Al-
bany. This hospital was dedicated to St Ninian. The tract of
ground, therefore, on which it stood, and on which a part of Hut-
chesontown is now built, was called St Ninian's Croft.J^: There
was connected with the hospital of St Ninian a chapel, which was
* Rym. Feed. Tom. iii. p. 786. f Cart. Clasg. Tom. i. p. 417, J Id. p. 445.
§ Id. p. 459. || Id. p. 557. f Id. p, 523.
** Former Statistical Account of Scotland, Vol. v. p. 541 .
•ff Ja. I. pa, 7. cap. 105. There was a leper hospital at King-case, near the town
of Ayr, which is said to have been founded by King Robert Bruce, who is represent-
ed to have died himself of leprosy. Spottiswood's Relig. Houses, App. to Hope's Mi •
nor Practicks, p. 532.
n M'Ure's Hist, of Glasg. pp. 52-54.
GOVAN. 689
rebuilt and endowed in 1494, by William Stewart, prebendary of
Killearn, and rector of Glasford. The chaplain was the master
of the grammar school of Glasgow, who, besides giving security
for the safe custody of the missals, valued at 12 merks Scots, and
of the silver chalices, weighing fourteen ounces, was required to
supply the inmates of the hospital with a certain quantity of fuel,
and likewise to give twenty-four poor scholars *2 shillings Scots
each to sing seven penitential psalms, with the De profundis, on
the anniversary of the death of the founder, and for the repose of
his soul.* After the Elphinstone family obtained the lands of Gor-
'bals, the rents and feu-duties which had been appropriated to the
support of the hospital were misapplied. The charge of the poor
" leper folk," therefore, seems to have devolved upon the session
of Glasgow.*)- The situation of St Ninian's Hospital was not far
from the south end of the Gorbals bridge. + No remains of it
whatever now exist ; but a plain old building, which stood till late-
ly near the bridge, between the main street- of Gorbals and Muir-
head Street, commonly received the name- of the Leper Hospi-
tal^ Close to this spot a considerable quantity of human bones
were not long ago discovered, plainly indicating the locality of the
leper's churchyard. On the east side, and near the centre of the
main street of Gorbals, an antiquated edifice, which has been call-
ed, from time immemorial, the chapel, is still standing. It seems
to be certain that this is the site of St Ninian's Chapel, if not the
* Cart. Glasg. Tom. ii. p. 930.
f " The sessioun ordenis David Hall, maister of work, and Johnne Scott, to visie
the lipper folkis house beyonde the brig, to see how ye samen may be reformit, sic-
lyk yai ordene Steven Glasgow, watter baillie, to gif in ye rental of ye lipper folkis,
yis day viij dayes " (Glasg. Sess. Rec. 20th October 1586.) " The sessioun or-
denis Johnne Scott, thesaurer to ye kirk, to gif furt, of ye penitentis silueir he hes
in hand, swa mekill silueir as will be straye, stobbis, and rigging, to repair ye
puir lipper folkis hous beyonde the brig of Glasgow, and as will satislie ye work-
manshipe in handling ye samen, and that incontinent heirefter provyding yat
ye put reparation to be hald of ye said puir folkis house astrict not the kirk to ye wp-
haldin of ye samen, in tymes cuming, neither derogate or abstract ye burden fra
these persones, gif ony be quha hes ben or may be fund astricted, to repair ye samen.
As also ordenis ye said watter baillie to gif wp yis day viij days the nomber of ye puir
in ye said hospitalle, and quha are yai yt aucht to haif place yairin." (Id. 2d No-
vember 1587.) William Maxwell of Cowglen, in 1625, bequeathed " to the lipper
folk at ye Bridgend of Glasgow xxs." Com. Rec. M'Ure's Hist, note by edit. p. 66.
$ " Ad hospitale leprosorum degentium prope pontem Glasguensem." Cart.
Glasg. nt supra.
§ That this old building at one time formed a part of St Ninian's Hospital scarce-
ly admits of n doubt. The charter of a conterminous property describes it to be si-
tuated on the east side of the High Street of Gorbals, and bounded by that " meikle
yard belonging to the borough of Glasgow on the east, and the hospital called the
Leper's Hospital, and kirkyard thereof, on the north." The following entry appears
in a rental-book of the city of Glasgow, dated 1760, " D. Gemmil for the back land
in the leper-house, Is. 8d."
690 LANARKSHIRE.
chapel itself. M'Ure says, that the friends of Sir George El-
phinstone buried him privately in his own chapel, " adjoining to
his house." The tower which is connected with the building in
question, he also says, was erected by Robert Douglas, Viscount
Belhaven. We know not on what authority Mr Brown states, in
his History of Glasgow, (Vol. ii. p. 1 L7,) that the chapel was re-
built by Sir George Elphinstone. As it could not be a very old
structure in his time, it was probably repaired only by him, after
" the hail images — altares — and all kynd of monuments of idola-
trie" had been removed by the Duke of Chatelrault, * when he
came to Glasgow in 1559, or by others, in conformity with the
act of council passed in 1560.
Doomster Hill. — This was the name which was formerly given
to a small circular hill on the south side of the Clyde, and imme-
diately opposite the ferry-house. It is supposed to have been one
of the law hills of the country. The utilitarian and the antiquary
will be differently affected when they learn that a reservoir for the
use of an adjoining dye -work has been formed on the top of this
tumulus, or hillock, as it is called, in the oldest titles of the pro-
perty. The depth of the reservoir is about 12 feet. The perpen-
dicular height of the hill itself is about 17 feet, and the diameter
of its base about 150 feet. When the reservoir was deepened a
few years ago, three or four rudely formed planks of black oak
were dug out of it. Some small fragments of bones were likewise
discovered, and a bed of what seemed to be decayed bulrushes.
This proved the mound to be, at all events, an artificial one. And
nothing forbids us to suppose that it may cover the ashes of some
ancient hero, who now sleeps there unknown to fame.-f-
Ancient Urns. — In 1832, seven of these were found by some
workmen, when baring the surface of a quarry near Partick, on the
property of Mr Bogle of Gilmorehill. One was broken by the
workmen before they knew what it was. The other six were found
on the two succeeding days. They were not more than three feet
* Spotswood Hist. p. 140.
•J" One of two barrows, in the parish of Thornborough, in Buckinghamshire, was late-
ly cut through, under the direction of the Duke of Buckingham and Chandos. It was
above 20 feet high, and nearly 40 across. In the course of digging some coins of Con-
stantine, and several bronze vases, much corroded, but perfect in shape, were discovered.
Some glass vessels were also found, which were " covered over with a thick piece of
oaken planking," and in which had been deposited the ashes and fragments of the
bones of the person in honour of whose memory the tumuli had been raised. Lon-
don Standard, November 30th 1839.
" Ergo instauramus Polydoro funus, et ingens
Aggeritur tumulo tellus." JENEin, Lib. iii. v. 62.
3
GOVAN. 691
below the surface of the ground, and placed within a few feet of
one another. Some of them are 14 inches high, 10 inches in dia-
meter at the top, and 4 inches at the bottom. The others are
smaller, but of the same form. The fragments of bones which
were found in them were placed irregularly one above the other.
They contained likewise a small portion of hair.*
Haggs Castle. — This is a very picturesque ruin. It was built
in 1585 by one of the ancestors of Sir John Maxwell of Pollok,
and " D. Margaret Conyngha, his wyfe." There is an inscription
over one of the doors to that effect, which is now read with diffi-
culty. On the 6th of November 1667, information was received
by the presbytery of Glasgow, or the ecclesiastical body, which,
under an Episcopal form of government, continued improperly to
take that name, that a conventicle had been held in the Haggs,
in the parish of Govan. They therefore gave orders that the per-
sons who were reported to have been present should be summon-
ed to a meeting, which was appointed to be held on the 20th of
the same month. On that day John Logan, one of the persons
arraigned, manfully " confessed that he was present at ye forsaid
conventickle, and not onlie refused to give his oath to declare
who preached, or wer then present, but furder declared he wold
not be a Judas, as otheris, to delate any that wer ther present."
His name and those of the other recusants were ordered to be
given up to the Archbishop, along with an account of the proceed-
ings. Their sentence is not recorded. Wodrow says, that, in
the year 1676, Mr Alexander Jamieson, who had been ejected
from the parish of Govan, because he refused to conform to Epis-
cjppacy, " gave the sacrament in the house of the Haggs, within two
miles of Glasgow, along with another clergyman. Mr Jamieson
did not again drink of the vine till he drank it new in the Father's
kingdom."-)- The family of Pollok suffered severely for thus keep-
ing and being present at house and field conventicles. By a de-
creet of the privy-council, December 2, 1684, Sir John Maxwell
had a fine imposed upon him of L.8000 Sterling. When he re-
fused to pay this arbitrary and oppressive exaction, he was com-
mitted to prison for sixteen months, though all, it appears, he
could be charged with was, that he had received into his house
* Among the Romans the practice of burning the dead arose from its being dis-
covered, that the bodies of those who were slain in their distant wars were dug up by
their enemies. Plin. Nat. Hist. lib. vii. cap. 53.
f Wodrow's Hist. Vol. ii. p. 318. Glasgow, 1830.
692 LANARKSHIRE.
and conversed with some of the non-conforming clergy.* It was
the cruel and tyrannical course adopted by the Court and the High
Commission in those days, that led the amiable and pious Bishop
Leighton f to declare, " that he could not concur in planting of
the Christian religion itself in such a manner, much less a form
of Government."
Another dilapidated building, which was utterly devoid of in-
terest, except on account of some imaginary associations connect-
ed with it, stood till lately, on the west bank of the Kelvin, below
Partick. It was said to be the ruins of a country residence which
belonged to the archbishop of Glasgow. And the person who was
positively affirmed to have erected it was Archbishop Spotswood,
in 16114 But it is now certain that the supposed " bishop's cas-
tle" belonged to George Hutcheson of Lambhill, the founder of
Hutcheson Hospital, and was built by him. The contract for its
erection, which George Hutcheson, who was a notary in Glas-
gow, entered into with William Millar, mason in Kilwinning, is in
the possession of a descendant of the family of Hutcheson. In
the said contract, with the proverbial caution of his country and
profession, the standard foot is declared to be " ye said George's
awn fute." Were more proof wanted to show how little depend-
ence can be placed on local traditions of this kind, it might be
supplied by Hamilton of Wishaw, who says,§ " Above this where
Kelvin falls into Clyde, is the house of Pertique, a well built and
convenient house, well planted with barren timber, large gardens,
inclosed with stone walls, which formerly belonged to George
Hutcheson, founder of the Hospital Hutcheson in Glasgow, and
now to John Crawford of Mylntoun." There can be no reason
to doubt, however, that before the Reformation the Bishop of
Glasgow had a mansion either on the site of the house in question,
or somewhere else in the vicinity of Partick. In the Glasgow
chartulary there is an instrument which sets forth that certain dif-
ferences that had arisen between William, Bishop of Glasgow,
and his chapter, had been referred for arbitration to the Bishops of
Dunkeld, Brechin, Orkney, and Galloway, and to the Abbot of
" Wodrow's Hist. Vol. ii. pp. 227-324, Vol. iv. p. 141.
f Bishop Burnet, who was then a young man, was pressed to go into any of the
vacant churches that he liked. But, says he, " though I was entirely Episcopal, yet
I would not engage with a body of men that seemed to have the principles and tem-
pers of inquisitors in them, and to have no regard to religion." History of his own
Times, Vol. i. p. 279.
t Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. iii. pp. 629, 639.
§ Description of Sheriffdorri of Lanark, p. 29.
GOVAN. 693
the Holy Cross, Edinburgh. This instrument is dated 30th June
1362, at the bishop's mansion, Partick. *
Old Tombstone. — In 1645, f the inhabitants of this part of the
country were visited with one of those periodical irruptions of the
plague, which formerly spread such alarm, and produced such
fearful mortality over the whole island. Business was at a stand
in many places. The ordinary intercourse of life was suspended.
Nor could the accustomed rites of burial be attended to by those
who, by a law of harsh necessity, were shut out from the sym-
pathy and friendly offices of the world, and by a regard to their
own safety, unwillingly compelled, almost as soon as life was ex-
tinct, to bury their dead out of their sight. There can be little
doubt, therefore, that the aged chroniclers of the neighbouring
village are right when they represent an old grave-stone that still
may be seen, as designed to mark the spot where a victim of the
plague was hurriedly buried. This unambitious monument lies
flat upon the ground, near the east side of a field, which forms
part of the farm of Laigh Craigton, and not more than half a mile
south from the parish church. It contains this simple intimation,
HERE LYES WILLIAM MURDOCH, SON TO NINIAN MURDOCH,
CRAIGTON, WHO DECEASED THE 7 OF MARCH, 1645, OF THE
ACtJC 15.
Ill, — POPULATION.
The village of Govan was classed among the largest in the
kingdom^ in the sixteenth century. The population of the pa-
rish has increased rapidly of late. This has been chiefly owing
to its vicinity to Glasgow, in the prosperity of which city, as a place
of great commercial and manufacturing importance, the parish of
Govan has largely participated.
The population of the parish of Govan, including Gorbals, which was then
incorporated with it, was in 1775, § . 4389
The population of the parishes of Govan and Gorbals in 1793, || . 8318
in 1836, «|[ . 46475
The population of that part of the parish of Govan which was annexed,
quoad sacra, to Gorbals, was in 1771, ** . 500
The population of the same district in 1 793, . . 800
in 1831, ft . 26695
' at present, (1839,) above 35000
* " Apud maneriutn dicti Dni Glasgsis Epi de Perthik." [The transcriber has
by mistake written Perchik.] Tom. i. p. 401.
f Brown's History of Glasgow, Vol. i. p. 83, Vol. ii. p. 138.
£ Supra Renfroum urbem ad duo millia est amplissimus ad Cludae ripam pagus,
Govanum nomen habet, ob coctionem optima cerevisiae." Leslaji, Scot. Descrip.
p. 10.
§ Dr Webster's Returns. || . Former Statistical Account of Govan.
^ Second Report of Commissioners for Religious Instruction, pp. 589, 634, 635.
** Former Statistical Account of Gcrbals.. ft Government Census.
LANARK. YV
694 LANARKSHIRE.
The population of the parish of Govan exclusive of annexation, was
in 1793, . . - 2518
in 1836, . . 6281
The population of the village of Govan was in 1836, . 2122
of Partick and rural part of the parish south
of the Clyde, . 2857
The number of families in the village of Strathbungo was in 1793, 35
in 1836, . 85
In the landward part of the parish, the actual rental of more
than sixty proprietors is estimated at L. 50, and upwards. There
are in the village of Govan, or belonging to it, and supported by
the parish, 3 insane, 3 fatuous, 3 blind, and 1 deaf and dumb
persons.
There is nothing very peculiar in the general character of the
people. In the village of Govan,* there are 340 hand-loom weav-
ers. It has long been remarked of these men by their employ-
ers, that in regard to their external appearance, and good conduct
as workmen, they would not suffer from a comparison with per-
sons of the same class in any part of the country. The present
generation, it is to be hoped, will not forfeit the good name they
have inherited. For many years, it is too well known, the hand-
loom weaver has received for his labour very inadequate remune-
ration. His mind has been depressed by this. While the smith,
the carpenter, the shoemaker, the mason, and the power-loom
weaver, have been earning from 14s. to 25s. a week, the unfortu-
nate hand-loom weaver has often been obliged to content himself
with earnings ranging from 5s. to 8s. Wiser heads than his can-
not comprehend how, in a well regulated commonwealth, such an
unequal state of things should be found to exist. When a stag-
nation of trade takes place, the effect is immediately felt by the
hand-loom weaver, whose small earnings are still farther reduced,
while the cotton-spinner, who is engaged in a branch of the same
manufacture, continues to be paid according to a rate, little if any
thing below the usual scale of prices. If this be the result of the
establishment of trades' unions, and if, on account of the poverty
of the hand-loom weaver, or from some other cause, the formation
of a trades' union in his case has been found to be impracticable,
it is not surprising that he should wish for the interference of the
Legislature in his behalf, in one shape or another, that the interests
of one class in the community may not be sacrificed to those of
another.
* A chaitist agitat;>r, who met with no countenance in this village, lately leport-
ed to his convention, that " Govan was no go."
GOTAN7. * 695
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — The whole of the land is arable, and, generally
speaking, the soil is excellent. The stranger who might be dis-
posed to visit Govan Moor, on account of its historical associations,
would be somewhat surprised to see, instead of the purple heath,
well enclosed fields, producing as luxuriant crops as any in the
kingdom. The appearance of the country about Moss-House and
Heathery- Hall would probably astonish him as much. The usual
rotation of crops is, potatoes, wheat, hay, grass for pasture, and
oats. The turnip,* an exotic from Flanders, was cultivated for
the first time in this neighbourhood, by Mr William Cross of
Parkhouse, Sheriff of the county of Lanark, who introduced it
into the parish in the year 1756. In no part of the country is
the produce of potatoes greater than in the parish of Govan.
This is no doubt owing, in a great measure, to the farmer being
able to draw a plentiful supply of manure from Glasgow. The
average rent of land is about L. 4 the acre. The wages of good
labourers are 10s. a-week in winter, and 12s. in summer. Masons,
carpenters, and other artisans, usually get the same wages which
they do in Glasgow. The duration of leases is in general from
ten to fifteen years. In two or three instances only is a grain
rent paid, the amount of which is regulated by the fiars of the
county.
Improvements at White Inch — A great part of the farm of White
Inch, which lies along the north side of the Clyde, below Partick,
is low ground. Mr Smith of Jordanhill, who is the proprietor of
this farm, has granted permission to the Clyde Trustees to depo-
sit the earth there, that is cut away from the banks in widening
the river, and the mud or gravel, that is lifted by the dredging-
machines in deepening it. During the last three years, L. 23,856,
13s. Id. have been paid for dredging in the harbour, and for
depositing soil at White Inch. This sum includes L. 3027 paid
for wages to a number of men, who were recommended by the
Glasgow committee for relief of the unemployed operatives.
These men were furnished with implements of various kinds, at
an additional expense to the Trustees of upwards of L. 500. In
the course of the last year, 145,822 cubic yards of soil have been
laid down. The soil is taken to White Inch in punts, which are
towed by a steam-boat. It is then removed by a contractor, who
is provided by the Trustees with railways, rail-waggons, &c. and
* Brown's History of Glasgow, Vol. ii. p. 175.
696 LANARKSHIRE.
who receives, for depositing it on the ground, and for covering it
with two feet of good earth, taken from the surface of the ground
in its original state, 7d. a cubic yard. The average height to
which the ground is raised is 10 feet. In some places it is ele-
vated about 15 feet. The superficial extent of the whole is 68
acres. It is believed that the value of the farm, since the Trustees
commenced their operations has been nearly doubled.
Fishery. — The salmon-fishery was'let for the first lime about
fifty years ago, to one tacksman, by the different heritors, whose
lands give them a right to fish in the Clyde. The rent obtained
was L. 30. Immediately afterward, the rent rose till it reached
L. 326 annually. Since the year 1812, however, it has fallen, so
that for the present lease of three years, the annual rent is only
L.60.
Produce. — The average gross value of the raw produce is sup-
posed to be annually, as follows :
Potatoes and turnips, 864 acres, at L. 18 per acre, L. 15,552 0 0
Wheat, 864 do. at L. 12 do. 10,368 0 0
Oats, 864 do. at L. 9 do. 7,776 0 0
Hay, 864 do. atL. 8 do. 6,912 0 0
Pasture, 864 do. at L. 8 do. 6,912 0 0
Gardens and orchards, .... 1,375 0 0
Fisheries, - - - - - 150 0 0
Coals, ..-.-- 30,000 0 0
Quarries, ironstone, and brick- clay, - 10,000 0 0
Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 90,045 0 0
Manufactures. — In Hutchesontown and Tradeston, and the
contiguous districts of the parish of Govan, there are 47 steam
engines, with an aggregate of nearly 1500 horse power. More
than a third of these are constructed on the high pressure prin-
ciple. In the different cotton and power-loom factories, in the
same part of the parish, in some of which bleaching and printing
operations are also carried on, there are 90,500 mules, 23,308
throstles, and 3297 looms, giving employment to between 4000
and 5000 people. In a factory recently established in Tradeston,
50 persons are employed, having the charge of 80 looms, in the
weaving of satin, velvets, silk veils, sashes, &c. And near Port
Eglinton, a carpet manufactory has been established for several
years, in which 241 men, 150 women, 69 boys under fourteen years
of age, and 94 girls are employed.
The iron-works of Mr William Dixon claim a more particular
description. The invention of the hot- blast by Mr James Beau-
mont Neilson of Glasgow, was the commencement of a new era in
the iron trade. Dr Andrew Ure,* a very competent authority,
* Dr Ure's Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures, and Mines, p. 694. London, 1839.
GOVAN. 697
has pronounced this to be " one of the greatest discoveries ever
made in smelting and founding iron." The process, however,
though it has been introduced into the works near Glasgow for
several years, has as yet scarcely passed the borders of Scotland.*
Mr Dixon, in addition to similar works at Wilsontown and Calder,
has erected two hot-blast furnaces, in the immediate neighbour-
hood of his extensive collieries in this parish. Other two are now
erecting, and will be in operation in the course of a few weeks. His
intention is to erect eight in all, each of which will produce the
average quantity of 4000 tons of pig iron annually. Near his blast
furnaces, Mr Dixon is likewise constructing a bar- iron manufac-
tory, in which he will have forty-two puddling furnaces. These, if
kept constantly at work, will make, according to the lowest calcula-
tion, 400 tons of bar-iron weekly.
In the village of Go van, 81 men and 37 women are employed in
a dye-work. The weekly wages of the men are from 12s. to 16s.
and of the women, from 6s. to 7s. At a short distance from that
village, a factory for throwing silk was erected in 1824. There
was previously no work of the kind in any part of Scotland. The
number of persons employed in this factory averages 250. Of
these, the larger proportion are children, none of whom are under
eight years of age. The grown up people are at work eleven hours
a-day, and the children from ten to eleven hours. The factory ge-
nerally stops at seven o'clock in the evening, with the exception of
Saturdays, on which it stops at three o'clock in the afternoon. The
wages of the men vary from 12s. to 18s., of the young women from
6s. to 7s., and of the children from 2s. to 5s. a-week. The healthy
appearance of the children connected with this work, in conse-
quence of its lower temperature, and the great care that is taken
to produce proper ventilation, -f- is in general very different from
* Dr Ure's Dictionary of Arts and Manufactures, p. 699.
•J- Govan factory " is heated by steam, and the steam pipes, instead of being sus-
pended from the ceiling of each flat, are disposed in beds in the ground floor, within
a few inches of the ground. Round the bottom of the ground floor are perforations
in the walls, through which is constantly rushing a current of fresh air, which, being
heated and rarified by the steam beds, ascends from them through holes and pipes in
the floor, to the upper stories, producing a constant supply of pure and warm air,
from the bottom to the top of the factory. The benefit of this is evinced by the total
absence of that feeling of suffocation met with in most other factories. The boiler is
fed with boiling water, by means of a subsidiary boiler, which the proprietor has cal-
led a Colville^ in honour of a young man Peter Colville, whose suggestion it was.
Besides saving fuel, the operation of the steam is thereby more steady, not being
damped by the influx of water comparatively cold. The Colville is placed at the side
of the large boiler, constituting for its length one side of the flue, and is thus kept boil-
ing by that heat which otherwise would be lost in the wall." Swan's Views on the
Clyde, with Leighton's Historical and Descriptive Illustrations, pp. 59-60.
698 LANARKSHIRE.
the sallow complexions of those young creatures, whose unhappy
destiny it is to be immured in a cotton factory. Every benevolent
mind, however, must desire to see a well regulated factory act,
framed with a view to secure to children of both sexes, before they
are admitted into our public works, the rudiments, at least, of a good
Scriptural education. Since the year 1828, a power-loom factory
has been established in Partick, in which 160 individuals are em-
ployed. In this factory the wages of the men are upon an ave-
rage L. 1 a-week, and of the women from 5s. 6d. to 9s. 6d.
Partick likewise contains a printfield, and a work for bleaching cot-
ton fabrics, in which the whole of the operations are carried on
within doors. About 180 persons are employed ill the former, and
82 in the latter. In the printfield, the printers, when fully em-
ployed, will earn from L.I, 5s. to L. 1, 10s. a-week. In the other
work, the weekly wages of the men, exclusive of labourers, are
from 15s. to L.I, and of the females, 15 of whom are under
eighteen years of age, from 3s. to 7s. a-week.
Navigation. — A new quay, faced with blocks of granite, has been
lately formed on the south side of the Clyde, immediately in front
of Clyde Buildings, Tradeston. The length of it is about 2000
feet. The Clyde has been widened and deepened at the same
place. The Broomielaw, therefore, presents the appearance now
of a very capacious harbour. But the crowded state of the berths
on both sides of it already shows that the accommodation provided
is not adequate to the rapidly increasing trade of the river.*
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Barony of Gorbals. — The burgh of the barony and regality of
Gorbals comprehends, along with the parish of Gorbals, the four
districts of Hutchesontown, Laurieston, Tradeston, and Kingston
in the parish of Govan. In 1687, this regality was disponed by
the Archbishop of Glasgow to Sir George Elphinstone, who ob-
tained from James VI. a charter of confirmation in 1611. In
1647, it was conveyed to the magistrates of Glasgow by Sir Ro-
bert Douglas of Blaickerton, the nephew of Lord Belhaven, who
had purchased it from the creditors of Sir George Elphinstone.f
In this way, the magistrates and council of that city have still the
* The amount of the tonnage and harbour dues for the year ending 8th July 1837,
including L. 687, Is. 3d., the third instalment of redemption dues on the lower stagejjof
the river, was L. 37503, 6s. Id. ; for the year ending 8th July 1838, L. 38934, Is. 3d. ;
and for the year ending 8th July 1839, L. 45292, 4s. 2d. The progressive increase
of the dues, previous to these dates, is shown in the account of the city of Glasgow in
this work, p. 198.
f Statement for Barony of Gorbals, by Henry Paul, Esq. chief magistrate of
Gorbals, pp. 3-5. Glasgow, 1834.
GOVAN. 090
right of nominating the magistrates and councillors of the burgh
of Gorbals; though, in point of fact, these are now elected by the
Parliamentary constituency of the barony ; the magistrates and
council of Glasgow simply sanctioning the appointment of the per-
sons thus elected. In every other respect, the Barony of Gorbals,
which has a police establishment of its own, is independent of the
city of Glasgow, though it forms a part of the same Parliamentary
burgh, which, by the Reform Act, sends two members to Parlia-
ment.
Means of Communication. — That part of the parish which con-
stitutes a portion of the Barony of Gorbals, and which is now one
of the largest suburbs of Glasgow, enjoys, of course, in regard to
means of communication, all the advantages which that city pos-
sesses. In the villages of Govan and Partick, there are penny-
post establishments, which transmit letters to and from Glasgow
twice a-day. There are also two public conveyances, of the de-
scription now known over the whole kingdom, under the name of
omnibuses, which ply at different hours between these two villages
and the neighbouring city. Four great roads pass through the
parish. One of these connects Glasgow and the large manufac-
turing town of Paisley. It is 48 feet broad, and, till it enters the
county of Renfrew, it has an excellent foot-path on each side, for
the convenience of the numerous foot-passengers who are seen con-
stantly travelling along it. Another road leads to Kilmarnock and
Ayr. The other two are nearly parallel with one another, and
with the Clyde, which separates them. The one leads to Port-
Glasgow and Greenock, through Renfrew ; and the other con-
ducts to the West Highlands, through the town of Dumbarton.
Since the last Statistical Account of the parish was written, a horse
and carriage boat has been put upon the ferry, which connects the
two parts of the parish at the village of Govan. At this ferry all
the steam- boats which ply on the Clyde, with the exception of
those of the largest class, land and receive passengers. The Glas-
gow and Johnstone Canal likewise passes through the parish, and
for a short distance, the northern boundary of the parish is touch-
ed by that branch of the Forth and Clyde Canal which joins the
Clyde at Bowling-bay. Along with their other local advantages,
the people of this parish have access to Glasgow by three bridges,
besides the one which connects Gorbals with Glasgow. The
Glasgow bridge, which is built of granite, is a magnificent struc-
ture. It connects the parish of Govan with Glasgow, immediate-
700 LANARKSHIRE.
ly above the Broomielaw, and forms the principal entrance to that
city from the west. The length of it is 500 feet, and it is 50 feet
broad within the parapets, the roadway being 32 feet, and each
of the side paths 9 feet. This bridge is consequently several feet
wider than Waterloo Bridge, London. The day on which it was
opened was the 1st of January 1836, and the cost of the erection
was L. 34,427, 18s. lid. The architect was our celebrated coun-
tryman, the late Thomas Telford, Esq. During the time the
Glasgow bridge was rebuilding, the public had the use of a wooden
bridge, which was placed opposite Portland Street, Laurieston.
This temporary erection is now closed against horses and carriages,
but it is still open to foot-passengers. A wooden bridge was for-
merly placed at the foot of Crown Street, Hutchesontown. A
handsome bridge, built of stone, which was substituted for this,
and which cost L.22,440, 3s. 4d., was opened to the public in June
1834. The Glasgow and Greenock and the Glasgow and Ayr
railways, the operations of which are already far advanced, are ex-
pected to be completed in the course of another year. The line
common to both, till it reaches the town of Paisley, will pass
through this parish for about three miles. It may be interesting,
perhaps, to some to see the accompanying statement of the amount
of tolls received by the trustees of three of the principal turnpike
roads in the parish, for the years specified. The Renfrew road,
it will be perceived, is the only one whose revenues have not kept
pace with the increasing traffic of the country. The period when
these began to decline is connected with the introduction of steam-
boats into the Clyde. Prior to this important era, there was con-
stant travelling on the Renfrew road by persons proceeding to and
from Glasgow and Greenock. Daily communication was kept up
betwixt these two places by means of carriers' waggons and stage-
coaches, which are no longer found necessary.
I. Rental of the Parkhouse Toll-bar for the Three-mile house and
Renfrew roads, at the time they constituted one trust :
Rental from 15th May 1780 to 15th May 1781 ~~ L.143 0 0
1781 1782 _ 180 0 0
1782 1783 200 0 0
1783 1784 _ 170 0 0
1784 1785 _ 184 0 0
1785 1786 — 186 0 0
1786 1787 — 186 0 0
1787 1788 _ 217 0 0
1788 1789 190 0 0
1789 1790 232 0 0
1790 1791 236 0 0
1791 1792 ~~ 260 0 0
1792 1793 270 0 0
1793 1794 „_ 263 0 0
GOVAN. 701
II. Rental of the Parkhouse Toll-bar, after each road was placed
under a separate trust :
Rental from
Three mile House Road.
Renfrew Road.
15th May 1794 to 15th
May 1795
[..296 80
~ L.180 0 0
1795
1796
356 0 0
~ 200 0 0
1796
1797
351 00
~ 200 . 0 0
1797
1798
390 0 0
~ 440 0 0
1798
1799
446 0 0
~ 455 0 0
1799
1800
551 0 0
~ 510 0 0
1800
1801
540 0 0
~ 528 0 0
1801
1802
750 0 0
~ 530 0 0
1802
1803
867 0 0
~ 575 0 0
1803
1804
1075 00
~ 780 0 0
1804
1805
950 0 0
~ 613 0 0
1805
1806
1191 00
-, 617 0 0
1806
1807
1120 00
~ 640 0 0
1807
1808
1270 0 0
~~ 670 0 0
1808
1809
1170 0 0
_ 638 0 0
1809
1810
1555 00-.
~ 308 0 0
1810
1811
1730 00
~. 420 0 0
1811
1812
1354 0 0
^ 530 0 0
1812
1813
1000 00
~ 690 0. 0
1813
1814
895 0 0
~ 735 0 0
1814
1815
990 0 0
~ 765 0 0
1815
1816
905 0 0
~~ 800 0 0
1816
1817
960 0 0
~~ 855 0 0
1817
1818
955 0 0
~ 800 0 0
1818
1819
800 0 0
-. 780 0 0
1819
1820
555 0 0
~ 860 0 0
1820
1821
550 0 0
-~ 705 0 0
1821
1822
590 0 0
~ 720 0 0
1822
1823
545 0 0
_ 630 0 0
1823
1824
675 0 0
~~ 625 0 0
1824
1825
1380 0 0
_ 785 0 0
1825
1826
1460 0 0
~~ 830 0 0
1826
1827
1470 0 0
~ 835 0 0
1827
1828
1315 00
~ 750 0 0
1828
1829
1210 00
~ 610 0 0
1829
1830
1205 00
~- 600 0 0
1830
1831
1270 00
~ 635 0 0
1831
1832
1408 18 5
~~ 669 0 0
1832
1833
1166 13 4
-~ 583 6 8
1833
1834
1276 13 4
~~ 638 6 8
1834
1835
1270 0 0
~~ 635 0 0
1835
1836
1306 13 4
-~ 570 0 0
1836
1837
1436 13 4
~~ 593 6 8
1837
1888
1550 00
~~ 650 0 0
1838
1839
1590 0 0
~ 670 0 0
1839
1840
1806 13 4
~~ 778 6 8
III. Rental of
Gorbals and Muirhouses
Toll-bars.
Years. Annual rentals.
Years.
Annual rentals.
1800—1 - L.900
1810—11
- L.2060
1801—2
1020
1811—12
2600
1802—3
1300
1812—13
2750
1803—4
1470
1813—14
2730
1804—5
1255
1814—15
2895
1805—6
1340
1815—16
3155
1806—7
1190
1816—17
3200
1807—8
1463
1817—18
3315
1808—9
1205
1818—19
3670
1809—10 .-. *
1270
1819—20
4000
702 LANARKSHIRE.
Years. Annual rentals.
1820—21 - L.3505
1821—22 - 3400
1822—23 - 3300
1823—24 - 3535
] 824— 25 - 3760
1825—26
1826—27
1827—28
1828—29
1829—30
4300
4170
2618
3105
2960
Years. Annual rentals.
1830—31 - L.2455
1831—32 - 2850
1832—33 - 3205
1833—34 - 3000
1834—35 - 3220
J 835—36 - 3660
1836—37 - 4010
1837—38 - 3980
18:38—39 - 4260
1839—40 4440
Ecclesiastical State. — David I., whom Hector Boethius* tells us,
the first James pronounced to have been a sore saint to the Crown,
bestowed the lands of Govan (Guvan cum suis divisis,-)-) upon the
Church of St Kentigern, or, as he was also called, St Mungo. In
1136, the same monarch, when present at the consecration of the
Cathedral, after it had been rebuilt, gave likewise to the see of
Glasgow a part of the lands of Perteyc or Partick, and he after-
wards added to this the grant of another portion of the same
lands, f The rights and privileges conferred by these and similar
benefactions were confirmed to the church of St Murigo by bulls
from the following popes : Alexander III., Lucius III., Urban III.,
and Honorius III. § The prebend of Govan was instituted by
Bishop John, commonly called Achaian, who died on the 28th of
May 1147, and was buried at Jedburgh, after having filled the
Episcopal chair for thirty-two years. The emoluments of the
prebend were increased by Bishop Herbert, who was Chancellor
of Scotland, and presided over the diocese till the year 1164.
He made Help his clerk prebendary. || In 1319, on the 20th of
* Hist. Scot. lib. xii. cap. 17. f Cart. Glasg. Tom. i, p, 8.
% Id. pp. 5, 12. Spot. Hist. p. 112. Cronica de Melrose, p. 6. MS. in Bib.
Ad. The lands of Partick, Perteyc, Perdeyc, Perthec, Perdheyc, or Pertheic, as
the name is variously spelled in different charters, anciently comprehended a portion
of the parish of Renfrew. Walter, the first High Steward of Scotland, gave to the
monks of Paisley, the island, near his town of Renfrew, " along with the right of
fishing between that island and Perthec," (cum piscatura inter ipsam insulam et
Perthec. Registrum Monasterii de Passelet, pp. 11, 409, 411.) This island is ob-
viously the King's Inch, and the Perthec referred to is clearly Wester Partick, which,
with the lands of Blawerthill, was in 1452 conveyed by James II. to the Stewarts
of Arthurlie. It was afterwards possessed by the Maxwells of Pollok, and now be-
longs to Mr Speiis of Elderslie. (Crawfurd's Hist, of Renfrewshire with cont. pp. 9,
67, 284, 341, 343.) At a still earlier period, Wester Partick appears to have been
vested in the family of Pollock. William, King of Scotland, gave a charter of con-
firmation to the church of St Mirin, and the monks of Paisley of "• iliam donationem
quam Helias de Pertheic eis fecit per concessionem Petri de Polloc fratris sui, de
ecclesia de Merncs." (Reg. Mon. de Pass. p. 100.) The name Partick was pro-
bably derived from particate (particata). David I. granted to the church of Holy-
rood, a house in Renfrew, "' five particates, and one draught of a net for salmon.''
(Mackie's Hist. Desc. of Monastery, &c. of Holyroodhouse, p. 17.) A particate
was " ane ruid of land." Skene de Verbor. Signif.
§ Cart. Glasg. Tom. i. pp. 29, 65, 103, 141.
|| Id. pp. 12, 13. Keith's Hist. Cat. of Scot. Bishops, pp. 231, 232. Edin. 1824.
GOVAN. 703
July, the see of Glasgow being vacant, Edward II of England,
who was then at York, appointed to the prebend of Govan, in the
church of Glasgow, " Johannes de Lund."* This unfortunate
Prince, in the course of that summer, made an unsuccessful at-
tempt to regain possession of Berwick, and to recover his lost power
in Scotland. He was not in a good condition, therefore, to enforce
respect to his presentation, which was perhaps never seen by the
chapter of Glasgow. The name of William de Govan, one of the
canons of the church of Glasgow, appears in various old charters.-)-
His name is also attached to an inventory J of all the ornaments,
* Rym. Feed. Tom. iii. p. 785. His name was probably Lundy. A Sir Richard
Lundy, a Scotchman of birth and family, attached to the interests of the first Edward,
is mentioned by Hume. (Hist, of Eng. Vol. ii. p. 285, Lond. 1825.) There was,
in the Cathedral Church of Glasgow, in 1401, a grievous deficiency of canonical
vestments, and other " pleasand playokis," as Andro de Wyntoun oddly terms them.
(Cronykil of Scotland, B. ix. C- vi.) To supply this deficiency, (grandem et detes-
tabilem ornamentorum defectum), the Bishop, with the concurrence of the Dean and
Chapter, imposed upon each of the prebendaries, a tax, which was regulated by the
amount of their respective incomes. The sum paid by the prebendary of Govan was
40 shillings (40 solidos, not L. 3, as is erroneously stated by Chalmers, Caled. Vol. iii.
p. 675.) Cart. Glasg. Tom. i. p. 454.
f Id. pp. 559,571,575.
{ Id. pp. 527 — 542. Along with numerous gold and silver chalices, patines, cru-
cifixes, censers, fonts, pastoral staves, owches, rings, and a variety of splendid vest-
ments, for the use of the Bishop and the officiating Priests, we find in this curious
collection, two silver crosses gilt, adorned with precious stones, and having inserted in
each of them a small fragment of the original cross, (una particula ligni Domini) ;
a part of the girdle, a few hairs, and some of the milk of the blessed Virgin ; a part of
the manger in which our Saviour was laid ; part of the scourges of St Kentigern and
St Thomas of Canterbury ; part of the hairy shirt of the patron saint ; part of the
skin of St Bartholomew ; part of the cloak of St Martin ; and two sacks of the bones
of known and unknown saints; (duo sacculilinei cum ossibus S. Kentigerni, Sancti
Tenau, et aliorum decessorum Sanctorum). The price of relics fell wonderfully after
the Reformation. Frederic, Elector of Saxony, in the early part of his reign, col-
lected these from every part of Europe. Burcardi, a German monk, was employed
to procure some for him in Italy. These were afterwards returned by Spalatinus,
the Secretary of Frederic, along with a letter to Burcardi, dated 28th of July 1522,
in which he says, " you will receive all the relics you sent to us, and also the cross, to
be sold by you for what you can get for them. For here, even the common people
have so far changed their opinions, that they think it enough for them, as it certainly
is, to be instructed by the word of God, and to have faith and confidence in God, end
love to their neighbour." (Seckendorf, Com. Hist, et Apol. de Lutheranismo, lib. i.
p. 223. Lipsia?, 1694. Bayle Diet. Art. Vergerius.) James Beatoun, Archbishop
of Glasgow, when be retired to France with the French fleet in 1560, took along
with him the plate, chartulary, and other things of value belonging to the Cathedral.
Some of these he ordered to be deposited, after his death, in the monastery of the
Carthusians at Paris, and others in the Scots College there, *« appointing the same to
be delivered how soon Glasgow should become Catholic." We do not perceive in
the inventory " the image of our Saviour in beaten gold, and the portraits of the
twelve apostles in silver which Spotswood speaks of. (Hist. p. 477.) Neither are
these taken notice of in the description of the records, images, crosses, and relics,
carried oft' by Beatoun, which was sent from Paris to Dr M'Kenzie, in the beginning
of the last century. (M'Kenzie's Lives, Vol. iii. p, 465. Edin. 1722.) With re-
gard to the chartulary, Dr Gordon, Principal of the Scots College, Paris, caused a
copy of it to be taken in 1766, for the purpose of presenting it to the University of
Glasgow. This he did, through Professor Cumin, who was in Paris at that time.
(Brown, Hist, of Glasg. Vol. ii. p. 74.) The original, along with other valuable
704 LANARKSHIHE.
relics, and jewels of the church of Glasgow made by command of
the Lord Bishop and chapter on the 24th of March 1432.
Mr Thomas Cameron,* canon of Glasgow, and prebendary of
Govan, was elected Rector of the University on the 25th of Oc-
tober 1453. He was the prothonotary of the Pope. An obitf
was founded for him in the church of Glasgow. Johannes Oter-
burn,f prebendary of Govan, subscribed, in 1480, along with the
other canons, and the Dean of the Cathedral, a deed increasing
the salaries of the vicar's choral (vicariorum chori), serving in their
respective stalls. Malcolm Durans, § one of the canons and pre-
bendary of Govan, founded in 1497, in the church of Glasgow, a
chapellany of the Holy Cross. He was probably succeeded by
Walter Betoun. For in the year 1525, Adam Colquhoun, offi-
cial of Glasgow, publishes an apostolical letter from Clement VII.
which is witnessed by Walter Betoun, Rector of Govan. ( Waltero
Betoun, Rectore de Gowan||). Two years after this the rector of
Govan obtained the unenviable celebrity of being one of those
•who, in the city of St Andrews, assisted at the trial, and signed
the sentence of Patrick Hamilton,^ the first Protestant martyr in
Scotland. The last Popish incumbent of Govan was Stephen
Beatoun. He was presented to the parsonage and vicarage of
Govan on the 3d of October 1561, by the Queen, jure corona.
Like many others of the Popish clergy, he was permitted to retain
the temporalities of his office, as long as he lived. He abused
this indulgence, by giving, immediately before he died, a lease of
the teinds for nineteen years, to his brother, Archibald Beatoun,**
chantor of Moray. Though, therefore, the College of Glasgow
got a gift of the benefice at the death ,of Stephen Beatoun, all
that they obtained from it for nearly twenty years, was not more
than 300 merks annually. -fl"
MSS. was brought to this country at the time of the French Revolution by Abbe
Macpherson, a member of the Scots College, who placed it in the hands of the learn-
ed author of Caledonia.
* Annales. Univ. Glasg. t Chalmer's Caled. Vol. iii. p. 675.
$ Cart. Glasg. Tom. ii. p. 759. § Id. p. 963. || Id. p. 1115.
f Spot. Hist p. 63.
** This was one of the " twa read nebbit teades" which Mr Peter Blackburn, the
ceconomus or steward, of the College, saw in his dream, leap out of •' a cup full of
barmie drink" when seated, as he supposed himself to be, at the College table.
James Melville's Diary, pp 49,50, apud M'Crie's Life of Melville, Vol. i. p. 435.
ff Nova Erectio, Evidence of University Commissioners, University of Glasgow,
Vol. it. p. 239, printed 1837. Information for College of Glasgow against Herit.
of Govan, 1795. p. 9. Statistical Account of University of Glasgow in former Sta-
tistical Account of Scotland, Vol. xxi. Appendix, p. 20. The Rector of Govan,
being one of the thirty-two prebendaries of the Cathedral, had a parsonage house in
the Rottenrow. (M'Ure's History of Glasgow, p. 46, reprinted 1830.) His place
4
GOVAN. 705
Previous to the death of Stephen Beatoun, Mr James Gibson
was appointed an exhorter in the parish. As it was impossible for
many years after the commencement of the Reformation, to pro-
vide ministers for all the parishes in Scotland, exhortersand readers
were substituted for them in many places. The provision allowed
to the exhorter of Govan, out of the patrimony of the church, was
very scanty. If he was passing rich, it must have been with forty
merks a-year.* Since the Reformation, there have been sixteen
ministers in the parish of Govan ; 1. Mr Andrew Melville ;*)• '2.
Mr Thomas Smeton ; 3. Mr Patrick Sharpe. There is a short
memoir of him written by the indefatigable Wodrow. When he
drew up that memoir, Wodrow does not seem to have been cer-
tain whether or not Patrick Sharpe ever officiated as minister of
Govan. But the name of " Mr Patrick Schairp, Principall in the
College, Minister at Govane," appears in the very first minutes
which have been preserved of the proceedings of the Presbytery
of Glasgow.:): On the 4th of March 1607, he was appointed con-
at Govan was supplied by a curate or vicar pensioner. " The sessioun ordains Ro-
bert Ingramme to bring bis tt'stimoniall yis day aucht dayes, fra ye vicare of Govane,
be quhom ye said Robert alledges him to be mareit with Gibson, with quhom he
hal'dis house, quilk testimoniall most contein ye tyme and place of their marriage."
(Glasgow Session Records, 22d July 1585.) A " capellanus de Guvan" is mention-
ed in Regist. Monast. de Pass. p. 175. This was probably the chaplain of the Lady
Altar in the Church of Govan. At the Reformation, .James Hill, the chaplain of
the Lady Altar of Govan, reported that the chaplainry produced 12 bolls of oats, 3
bolls of meal, and L. 1, 6s. in money, MS. Rental Book, p. 26. Chalmers's Caledonia,
Vol. iii. p. 676.
* '• Goven, James Gibson, Exhortar, xl. merkis." Regist. of Min. Exhort, &c.
p. 31. Printed by Maitland Club, 1830.
f The Foundation Charter, entitled Nova Erectio, dated 13th of July 1577, which
was granted to the College of Glasgow, by the Earl of Morton, during the minority
of James VI., and which conveyed to the college the rectory and vicarage of the pa-
rish church of Govan, provided, that while the Principal was to reside in the college,
and discharge other important duties, he was to preach every Lord's day to the peo-
ple of Govan, for, says the charter, '' we have thought it to be right, when our college
is supported out of the tythes and revenues of that church, that they who provide
temporal things should receive spiritual things, and not be defrauded of the bread
of life, which is the word of God." As Principal, Melville was allowed, by the
charter, 2i)0 merks annually, and for discharging the functions of minister of Govan,
three chalders of grain, while he and the three regents had upheld for them, out of
the funds of the college, a common table, (" sine luxu et profusione.") It was like-
wise enjoined by the charter that, out of the teinds of Govan, four bursars should be
boarded at the college table, and that, in appointing these, care should be taken, " not
to admit the rich in place of the poor, and that drones do not feed on « alvearia,"'
(Nova Erectio, ut supra.) These four bursars were boarded in the college till the
Revolution, when the common table was given up. They now receive, as an allow-
ance for their board, L. 10 annually. (Rep. of Univ. Com. p. 272. Printed 1831.)
This is undei stood to be a liberal sum, as in 1578, the value of ten bolls of oatmeal
was thought sufficient for the maintenance of a single bursar. (Idem. p. 227.) The
right of presenting to these bursaries is, by the charter, vested in the Earl of Morton
and his heirs. But it does not appear that this right, though claimed by his present
Lordship, has ever been exercised by any of his family- Tiie Principal and profes-
sors, so far as is known, have always been accustomed to present Id. pp. 235, 271.
$ Presb. Rec. " Vigesimo quarto die mensis Octobris 1592." "Mr Patrick
706 LANARKSHIRE.
stant moderator of the Presbytery, by a letter from His Majesty's
Council, which was presented by the Earl of Abercorn.* The
affairs of the college having become embarrassed, through suppos-
ed mismanagement on his part,f Principal Sharpe was induced to
demit his office on the llth of August 1614. He died in May
16154 4. Mr Robert Boyd. 5. Mr James Sharpe. He was
elected one of the regents of the College of Glasgow on the 15th
of October 16lO.§ After being minister of Govan for about
eighteen years, he was translated to Leith in 1539, on the presen-
tation of Lord Balmerino, and with the unanimous consent of the
General Assembly, having succeeded Mr William Wishart, || par-
son of Restalrig, who was deposed by the Assembly that met the
preceding year at Glasgow. He died in 1645,51 a victim, it is sup-
posed, to the plague, as in the course of that year not fewer than
2736 persons, in the town of Leith, were carried off by this fearful
malady ; being more than one-half of the whole population. Prin-
cipal Baillie classes James Sharpe among the eminent men belong-
ing to the College of Glasgow, when he was first connected to
it.** 6. Mr William Wilkie. Like the minister who preceded
and the one who followed him, he was, previous to his appoint-
ment to the parish of Govan, a regent-j-f in the College of Glasgow.
He produced to the presbytery from the College a presentation
in his own favour, on the 22d of January 1640.J| Mr William
Sharpe and Elizabet Jak cotentit to marre for performing'of marrage betwixt yame, and
making of na brydellis, his friend Mr Blaise Laurie, [one of the regents of the college,]
cautioner and souertie for yame vnder the pain of ten lib. money." Glas. Ses. Rec.
19th August 1591.
* Glasg. Presb. Rec.
f Wodrow, MSS. Life of Boyd, Vol. xv. pp. 63, 64.
£ Com. Rec. Glasg. " The brethren having read and considerit the paines and
travills taken be Mr Patrick Scharp, Principall of the Colledge of Glasgow, and his
lessones, upon the catechisme and grounds of religione, allowes of the same, and
thinks them very necessar and profitable, and therefore ordaynes them to be printed."
(Perth Assembly, 14th March 1597. Book of Univ. Kirk, p. 476.) Dempster,
who calls Sharpe, " vir eruditus," says of him, "• Grasce ac Latine multa edidit.
Ego vidi tantum in orationem Dominicam commentarium, ex Patribus Grscis La-
tinisque." (Hist. Eccl. Gent. Scot. Tom. ii. p. 600.) The only work of his which
I have seen, is a small duodecimo volume, having for its title, " Doctrina? Christi-
ana brevis explicntio. Edin. 1599." It is a commentary on the three first chapters
of Genesis, the Apostles' creed, the sacraments, the decalogue, and the Lord's prayer.
§ Annales Coll. Glasg.
H Records of Kirk of Scot. Edited by A. Peterkin, p. 256.
f Rec. of Kirk Ses. of South Leith.
** Bodii, Prelectiones ad Ephes, Epist ad Lectorem, p. i.
•j"f" " By a recommendation of the General Assembly, not long after our Reforma-
tion from Popery, the regents were only to continue eight years in their profession, after
which, such as were found qualified were licensed, and upon calls after trials admitted
to the holy ministry." Truth's Victory over Error, Glasgow, 1725, preface by Robert
"Wodrow, p. xi.
£$ Glasg. Presb. Records.
•3
GO VAN. TOT
Wilkie was one of the commissioners appointed by the General
Assembly in 1642, to visit the College of Glasgow, when, among
other things, the commissioners ordained, that the Greek text of
Aristotle should be analysed viva voce, and thereafter the sense of
the text written ; that the disputation of the students should con-
tinue in their classes, and in the public schools ; that the students
in private should speak Latin, that they should be exercised in law-
ful games, such as golf, archery, and the like, and abstain from all
games that are unlawful, as carding, dicing, and such others as are
prohibited by their laws ; and that every master should educate
his own students through all the four classes.* The synod de-
posed Wilkie on the *29th of April 1649. He was accused and
convicted of not preaching against Hamilton's engagement, of as-
sociating with malignants, and of being remiss in the exercise of
discipline.f Principal Baillie, who presided at the first presby-
terial visitation for investigating the charges which were brought
against him, thought he was treated with undue severity.^ 7. Mr
Hugh Binning. 8. Mr David Veitch. Being a protester, he could
not obtain license from the presbytery of St Andrews. He there-
fore presented himself for the purpose of being licensed by them
to the presbytery of Biggar, to whom the famous Samuel Ruther-
ford gave this strong testimonial respecting him, that " the like
of Mr Veitch in his age for great learning and piety, he had never
known." The heritors and elders of Govan elected him to be their
minister, on the 14th of May 1654.§ It was the intention of Mr
James Durham, minister of the Inner High Church of Glasgow,
to nominate him to be his successor, with the permission of the
Town-Council. Being reminded of this on his deathbed, he said,
" Mr David Veitch is too ripe for heaven to be translated to any
church on earth. He will be there almost as soon as I." His words
proved prophetic. Mr Veitch preached to his parishioners, and took
a solemn leave of them, on the Sabbath immediately after his pious
friend's death, and expired on the following Friday. || He was but
twenty-seven years old when he terminated his earthly career.
Wodrow represents him to have been an admirable scholar, and a
man of great piety. He likewise says, that he was a most laborious
* Resist, of Gen. Ass. apud Evid. of Royal Com. Univ. of Glasg. Vol. ii. pp.
258, <2CO.
f Glasg. Pres. Rec. * Letters, Vol. ii. p. 338.
§ Govan Session Records.
|| Mem. of Veitch and Brysson, edited by Dr M'Crie, pp. 14, 17.
708 LANRllKSHIRE.
minister, and particularly acceptable as a preacher to the peopleofhis
parish.* 9. Mr Alexander Jamieson. He wasa regent in St Andrews?
in the College of St Leonards. There is a very graphic account
of his election to that office, according to the mode of the time,
in Lamont's Diary. (Edin. p. 5.) He was chosen to be minis-
ter of Govan on the 26th of March 1659, after he had preached
twice on that day in the parish church. Sir George Maxwell of
Nether Pollock, along with three other heritors and the elders
of the parish, were appointed to " goe and signifie their unanimi-
tie in calling of him unto the ministrie."-f* He was afterwards
married to a sister of Sir George Maxwell.j It was by the fatal
act of council passed at Glasgow, October 1st 1662, that he was
dispossessed of his charge. Mr Jamieson was one of the nine
" suffering Presbyterian ministers," who, in 1673, licensed Pro-
fessor Wodrow, the father of the historian, to preach the gospel.
He was considered one of the most acute philosophers and pro-
found theologians at that time in Scotland, and, as Wodrow in-
forms us, he had no small share in preparing the " Apology for
persecuted Ministers," which was published not long after this.§
In the act of council dated " Halyrudhouse, September 3, 1672,"
Alexander Jamieson was ordered to confine himself to the parish of
Killallan, in the diocese of Glasgow, in which he was to be allowed
to discharge, along with other ministers similarly situated in other
parishes, some of his ecclesiastical functions, and to receive a small
proportion of the parochial stipend, upon certain conditions. ||
But he was one of ten ministers who met to draw up reasons
for refusing the Indulgence, as it was termed.f 10. Mr John
Hay. Some presbyteries were completely broken up by the
ejection of the non-conforming clergy, who were compelled by
the Act of Council, dated Edinburgh, August 13th 1663,
* Analecta, Vol. iv. p. 170. MSS. in Bib. Ad. f Govan Session Records.
£ Wodrow, Analecta, Vol. iv. pp. 213, 216. In'those days, when the belief in witch -
craft was almost universal, Sir George Maxwell was thought to have been deprived of
life by means of the incantations of four witches and a wizard, who were burned for
this supposed crime at Paisley, on the 20th of February 1 677. The evidence upon
which these poor creatures were convicted is detailed at length in a letter which his
son Lord Pollock, one of the Senators of the College of Justice, wrote to Pi-ofessor
Sinclair, and which is published in Sinclair's " Satan's Invisible World Discovered,"
(pp. 1 18. \ We are told that it was suspected at the time, that Janet Mathie, the
principal witch, " had also wronged Mr Jamieson, minister at Govan." Law's Me-
mor. pp. Ill, 120, 127. See also prefatory notice by the editor, p. Ixxiv.-
§ Wodrow's Hist of Ch. of Scot. Vol. i. p. 328. Life of Professor Wodrow, by
his son, p. 54.
|| Hist, of Indulgence, p. 35. Id. p. 48.
% Wodrow, Hist, of Ch. of Scot. Vol. p. 227.
GOVAN. 709
to remove with their families, twenty miles from their former
parishes, six miles from any cathedral church, and three miles
from a burgh. The archbishop, therefore, and the diocesan sy-
nod issued an order, requiring that, wherever four or five ministers
could be brought together, they should constitute themselves into
a presbytery in the old presbytery seats. In compliance with this
order, a few ministers met at Paisley, on the 29th of October 1663,
along with " Mr John Hay and Mr William Forbes of the pres-
biterie of Glasgow — correspondents for a time to assist them."
Mr Hay is called in their minutes, " Mr John Hay, younger,"
to distinguish him from Mr John Hay, parson of Renfrew.* 11.
Mr Gabriel Russell. On the 28th of February 1666, he pro-
duced to the presbytery, " severall testimonials from Jedburgh
and the Colledge of Aberdeen, where he was ane student."-)- By
appointment of the archbishop, he received institution in Septem-
ber 1667, at the hands of the moderator, who, after prayer and
thanksgiving, delivered to him " the Bible and keyes of the kirk ;
and immediately passed to the manse and gleib and gave him in-
feftment thereof.":): 12. Mr John Pettigrew. When James VII.,
with the secret design of re-establishing Popery, suspended, in
* Rec. of Paisley Presb. The writer has not been able to discover the date of Mr
Hay's institution to the benefice, as both the scss'on and presbytery records of the period
have been lost. But on the 19th of November 1663, " John Hay, Minister of Go-
van," is represented to have executed an edict from the Archbishop at the parish
church of Kilbryde, preparatory to the institution of Mr James Crichton, as minis-
ter of that parish. (Glasg. Presb. Rec.) Indeed, the whole of the Glasgow Presby-
tery Records, previous to 1774, are in a very imperfect state, having been greatly in.
jured by the fire, which destroyed the Laigh Church and session-house, on the 8th of
February 1793. This calamity is the more to be deplored that, after having been
missing for about a hundred years, nine volumes of these records had been restored
to the Presbytery only the'year before. (Denholm, Hist, of Glasg. p. 96. Cleland's
Annals of Glasg. Vol. ii. p. 47 o, 479.) As they cannot now be handled even with
the utmost care, without sustaining injury, a copy has been taken at considerable ex-
pense, of what is legible of them, from the years I5i>2 to 1627. If the remaining
volumes are not transcribed soon, as they are almost in a state of tinder, their con-
tents, as. an authentic memorial of the times, will be irrecoverably lost.
f Glasg. Presb. Rec. A contemporary historian says, that the curates, as the coun-
try people called them, •' were fetched almost wholly out.of the north country, where
they found a sort of young lads, unstudied and unbred, who had all the properties of
Jeroboam's priests, most of them of two or three years standing." (Kirkton, Hist,
of Ch. of Scot. p. 160.) Nor is the description more flattering which is given of
them by Bishop Burnet, and which may be seen in his History of his own Times.
He pronounces them to have been " the dreg and refuse of the northern parts." (Vol.
i. p. 284, Oxf. 1833.) As the learned prelate is so severe in his remarks on the
clergy of his own church, he may be pardoned for the bitter things lie says of the Pres-
byterian clergy. His candour, however, leads him ty admit respecting the latter,
that they " were related to the chief families in the country, either by blood or mar-
riage, and had lived in so decent a manner that the gentry paid great respect to them."
He adds, that, u as they lived in great familiarity with the people, and used to pray
and talk often with them in private, so it can hardly be imagined to what a degree
they were loved and reverenced by them." Id. p. 281.
* Gins. Presb. Rec.
LANARK. Z Z
710 LANARKSHIRE.
1687, the execution of the laws against non -conformity, the Pres-
byterian clergy, who, during the late period of persecution, had
been imprisoned, driven into exile, or silenced, proceeded to re-
construct their presbyteries, or where their numbers had been re-
duced by death, to form these ecclesiastical courts out of the rem-
nants of former adjoining presbyteries. The first meeting of the
united presbyteries of the synod of Glasgow and Ayr was held in
Glasgow, on the 30th of August in that year.* On the 15th of
September, " the brethren of the united presbyteries," having re-
ceived a petition from the parish of Govan for supply, appointed
Mr John Pettigrew to preach there the next Lord's day. Mr James
Wodrow received on the same day a similar appointment. Mr
Pettigrew was ordained, January 5th, 1688.f 13. Mr Charles
Coatts, In consequence of the resignation of Mr Pettigrew, who
was allowed to retain, during his lifetime, the manse and glebe,
with L. 400 Scots of the stipend, Mr Coatts was nominated and
called to the parish by " the session with the heritors and many
masters of families," on the 20th of December 1711, and ordain-
ed on the 2d of May 1712. He seems to have been with the
King's army at Stirling, in the capacity of chaplain, during the Re-
bellion in 1715.| He died December 31st 1745. 14. Mr Wil-
liam Thorn. § There was strong opposition to his settlement on
the part of the parish. He received his presentation on the 26th
of May 1746, but was not ordained till the 25th of February 1748.
The presbytery refused to sustain the call of Mr Thorn, " ne-
rnine contradicente," on the ground of its having but few signa-
tures attached to it. After his case had gone to the General As-
sembly,|| however, he was inducted by a committee of the synod
* Wod row's Hist, of Ch. of Scot. Vol. iv. p. 434. About two years before this,
at Polmadie, a party of soldiers from Glasgow, under the command of Major Balfour,
shot three men in cold blood, because they would not pray in express terms for King
James VII. (Id. p. 250.) " After the libertie in July 1687, by the appointment
of the genrll meting at Edinr, in August in ye year forsd, the presbyteries of Glas-
gow, Paisley, and Dumbartone, did join together and made up ane presbyterie,
by reason of the paucitie of miners, which continued wntill Deer of ye sd year."
Records of Presbytery of Paisley.
-f- Glasgow Presbytery Records.
* Govan Kirk Session Records.
§ The facetiae of Mr Pettigrew and Mr Thorn, though both much famed for their
caustic wit and humour, have not yet found their way, that I am aware of, into any
published collection of memorable and tcilty sayings. The satirical vein of Mr Thorn,
however, may be seen in a small volume of his, consisting of sermons, tracts, letters,
&c. printed at Glasgow, 1799.
j| The case of Mr Thorn was not quite correctly reported by Robert Whigham,
Esq. Advocate, when giving his evidence before the Select Committee of the House of
Commons, appointed to consider the past and present state of the Law of Church Pa-
tronage in Scotland. He appears to have thought (Minutes of Evidences, pp. 427,
GOVAN. 711
of -Glasgow and Ayr. 15. Dr John Pollock, who was ordained
to his pastoral charge on the 21st of July 1791, and died on the
7th of May 1820. The education of the young, to which he just-
ly attached great importance, occupied a large share of the atten-
tion of Dr Pollock. Nor was he less distinguished for his judi-
cious and humane management of the affairs of the poor. The
present incumbent received ordination as minister of this parish
on the 1st of March 1821.
The parish church, which is beautifully situated at the west end
of the village of Govan, and within 300 feet of the river Clyde,
was built in 1826, according to a plan furnished by Mr Smith of
Jordanhill. Its distance from Glasgow is about three miles. It is a
simple Gothic structure, with lancet windows and battlements, and
is capable of containing nearly 1100 persons. The design of
the tower and the spire rising from it was taken from the church
of Stratford- upon- Avon. The churchyard, in which " the hallow-
ed fane" is placed, and which is raised several feet above the ad-
jacent ground, is surrounded by a double " row of reverend elms,
— long lashed by the rude winds."* The manse is placed, as it
ought to be, near the church. There was a considerable addition
made to it a few years ago, so that there is now ample accommo-
dation for a minister's family. The glebe, which consists of seven
acres, has been supposed to be worth L. 25 annually. The sti-
pend is 10 chalders of meal, and JO chalders of barley. It was
augmented in the year 1818. It must have been very inconvenient
for the inhabitants of Gorbals to attend the parish church of Go-
van. But no attempt appears to have been made to erect a place
of worship in that quarter, till after the beginning of the last cen-
tury. On the 30th of May 1728, the heritors of Govan unani-
449,) that it was a case " upon the principle of the Act 1690, or where the patron
waived his right of presenting in favour of the heritors, elders, and heads of families,"
whereas it was the college who presented. He was likewise led to believe that " the
patrons offered a leet of two young men, after having indulged the parish with a
hearing of four." It was not the patrons, however, but the presbytery, without any
communication with the patrons, who allowed the parish to have a hearing of the four
probationers. And what the patrons offered to a deputation from the heritors and
elders on the 5th of May, was, that "• they would indulge them with a leet of two out
of the four who had preached before them, provided that, jjpon the twenty sixth of
May instant, they came instructed to declare, that the majority of heritors and elders
would choose one of these two so named by the University." This proposal was de-
clined. The college, therefore, on the 26th of May, resolved by a majority, to pre«
sent Mr Thorn, Professor Anderson, desiring " to have it marked that he did not vote
for presenting Mr Thorn, in regard he had reason to think that he would not be agree,
able to the majority of the legal callers of that parish." Minutes of Rector's Meet-
ings. See also Presb. Rec. 26th March 1746.
* Blair's Grave.
712 LANARKSHIRE.
mously acceded to the prayer of a petition from the feuars, elders,
and inhabitants of Gorbals, who had then begun to build a church
for themselves, on ground which had been given to them by Mr
John Geills Wright, that the Gorbals and the Moor of Gorbals
should be formed into a new parish, the petitioners undertaking to
provide a competent stipend for the minister. This church was
opened for public worship by Mr Charles Coatts, minister of Go-
van, on the 16th of January 1730.* The collection on that occa-
sion amounted, we are told, to L. 24 Sterling, f A considerable
debt, however, remained for some time upon the building. This
in 1 743 was not less than L. 368, 15s. 3d. In that year, therefore,
the presbytery and synod appointed collections to be made in the
different parishes, throughout their bounds, to liquidate the debt
of the church of Gorbals. J The formation of the new parish was
opposed by the magistrates of Glasgow, as superiors of Gorbals,
and likewise by the College, who were unwilling to surrender their
patronage. § It was not consequently till the year 1771, that the
Lords Commissioners of Teinds disjoined the village of Gorbals,
with the churchyard belonging to it, from the parish of Govan,
and erected it into a new parish, under the name of the parish of
Gorbals. || By the decreet of disjunction, the patronage of the
new parish, along with the teinds, was expressly reserved to the
College of Glasgow, who soon afterwards sold it to the feuars and
elders of Gorbals for 1000 merks Scots. Mr Thorn, the minister
of Govan, and several of the heritors were desirous that the new
erection should include that part of the parish of Govan, which
* Govan Kirk Session Records.
f Wodrow's Anal. Vol. vi. pp. 110-111.
J Govan Kirk Session Records, 31st July 1743.
§ Wodrow was of opinion the inhabitants of Gorbals were somewhat ungenerous-
ly treated, when making such laudable efforts to provide, for- themselves and their fa-
milies, additional means of religious instruction. We learn from him, that what the
magistrates of Glasgow wished was " to bring in the inhabitants of the Gorballs or
Bridgend, to bear Scot and lot with them. In qlk case'* he adds, " they offer (March
1731) to pay the expense of the building of the church, and to give a stipend and
manse to the entrant. Thus, through selfish views, this excellent design is like to be
broken, the inhabitants of Gorbals not being willing to be brought in subjection to the
taxes of the town of Glasgow." Anal. Vol. iv. pp. 263-265.
|| The parish of Gorbals is declared to consist of " the village of Gorbals, which is
bounded and described as follows, viz. on the north, by the river Clyde ; on the east,
by St Ninian's Croft, to the highway leading to Rutherglen ; and from the said high-
way on the south-east, and south by Paterloan and Dockany-fold, to the highway
that leads to the Shaws ; and from the said highway on the south and south-west, by
the Wall-croft that joins the Shiel-loan on the south and west of the garden belong-
ing to the heirs of Andrew Geills, to the highway leading to Paisley ; and from the
said highway on the west, by the Wind-miln-croft to the river Clyde ; and the bury-
ing place of the said village, bounded on the north by the highway leading to Ruther-
glen, from the Gorbals ; on the east and south, by the lands of Mr Rae of Little
Govan ; and on the west, by Sandyfold-burn, from the present parish of Govan."— De-
creet of Disjunction.
GOVAN. 713
lies to the east of the town of Gorbals. This was objected to on
the part of the feuars of Gorbals. On the 27th of March 1771,
however, little more than one month after the parish of Gorbals
had been separated from Govan by the Teind Court, the remain-
ing part of the barony of Gorbals, with the lands of Little Govan
and Polmadie, in the parish of Govan, was annexed quoad sacra to
the new parish of Gorbals, by the presbytery of Glasgow.
In the course of the last five years, three additional churches in
connexion with the Church of Scotland have been built in the pa-
rish of Govan. These have all had assigned to them parochial
districts, quoad sacra, each containing a population not exceeding
3000. Partick Church, the first that was built, was opened for pub-
lic worship on the 23d of March 1834. It has accommodation for
580 persons, and cost, exclusive of the ground, about L. 1 000.
The funds for erecting it were furnished by private subscription.
The Rev. Robert Paisley, the present minister, was ordained on the
18th of August 1836. Hutchesontown Church had divine service
performed in it for the first time on the 24th of March 1839. This
church owes its existence to the munificence of the Glasgow
Church Building Society, and to the Christian benevolence of a
number of individuals connected with the district, who subscribed
to the object L. 881. It is capable of holding 1024 persons, and
has had expended upon it nearly L. 2600. On the presentation of
the Church Building Society the Rev. Alexander S. Paterson
was appointed minister of Hutchesontown Church, and inducted on
the 25th of April 1839, having been previously minister of a
chapel in Whitehaven. Kingston Church was likewise completed
this year. It was built by the friends of the Rev. James Gibson,
with the design of presenting him to it, as an appropriate testimony
of their respect for his talents and character, and with a view at the
same time of providing an overgrown parish with an additional
place of worship. The cost of it was about L. 3000, and there is
accommodation in it for 1000 persons. Mr Gibson was inducted
on the 13th of June. The Church Building Society are about to
erect another church in this parish, for which they have bought a
site in Warwick Street, Lauriston. Since the year 1833, Strath-
bungo has been occupied as a missionary station, by a licentiate of
the Church of Scotland. It is likewise proposed to build a church
in that neighbourhood. Nearly the whole of the necessary funds
have already been obtained, and ground for a site has been given
by the patrons of Hutcheson's Hospital.
There are, in different districts of the parish, three places of wor-
714 LANARKSHIRE.
ship connected with the United Secession Synod, besides a school-
house in the village of Govan, in which there has been service re-
gularly for the last two years, and which may be capable of con-
taining about 100 persons.
Names of Ministers. Where situated. When built. No. of Sittings. Stipend, &c.
Rev. James Smith,* Nicholson St. Laurieston, 1814,f 910, L.220 0 0
Rev. J. Johnstone, Eglinton Street, do. 1825, 1218, 220 0 0
Rev. J. Skinner,* Particle, 1824, 600, 140 0 0
In the parish there are two Relief churches.
Names of Ministers. Where situated. When built. No. of Sittings. Stipend.
Rev. William Thomson, Hutchesontown ,1800, 1624, L. 300 0 0
Rev. Robert Wilson, Particle, 1824, 840, 130 0 0
The chapel in Tradeston, which belonged to the Wesleyan
Methodists, has been bought and taken down by the Glasgow
and Greenock and the Glasgow and Ayr Railway Companies,
as they intend to have their terminus here. The Roman Ca-
tholics likewise have a chapel in this parish. It is situated in
Portugal Street. This chapel was built for a school-house, in
which the children attending it were educated according to the
Lancasterian system. The Roman Catholics bought it in 1824
for L. 509. It is under the immediate superintendence of the
Roman Catholic clergymen of Glasgow.
In 1 836, previous to the disjunction quoad sacra of the village
of Partick and the adjoining district, and exclusive of the annexa-
tion to Gorbals, there were ascertained to be in this parish 1971
Dissenters ; 69 not known to belong to any religious denomination ;
and 4241 persons in connection with the Established Church.
The Dissenters were thus classed : —
788 Relief people. 22 Methodists.
596 United Secedeis. 13 Cameronians.
176 Original Burghers. 10 Old Independents.
143 Roman Catholics. 18 Belonging to various small sects.
106 Episcopalians. 29 The names of whose ministers are unknown.
40 Independents.
30 Baptists. 1971
The Govan and Partick Home Missionary Society, which is
under the superintendence of the minister and kirk-session of the
parish, has been prosecuting for several years its noiseless but use-
ful labours. The income of this society last year was L.54, Is. 6d.
There are thirteen Sabbath-school teachers associated with it.
Some of these are male and the others are female teachers. It
likewise furnishes small libraries for the use of the Sabbath-school
children, circulates approved religious tracts, and provides a part
* Since this was written, Mr Smith and Mr Skinner have resigned their charges.
What is stated respecting their churches and those of the other Dissenting ministers,
is taken from their own evidence before the Commissioners of Religious Instruction.
t This was an Independent church till the year 1821.
GOVAN.
of the salary of the missionary at Strathbungo. In the course of
the last year, L. 44, 11s. 6d. were collected at the door of the pa-
rish church for the four schemes of the General Assembly. And
for the use of the poor, the sum collected, including extraordinary
collections for their benefit, was L. 64, 15s. 9^d. Before the pa-
rish was assessed for the maintenance of the poor, the weekly coU
lections at the church door were nearly double what they have been
since, though the congregation is larger now than it was at that
time. The heritors have never interfered with the disposal of the
weekly collections of the new churches. Any attempt, indeed, to
lay hold of these would, it is believed, prove futile. If it were
once made known to those who resort to the new churches, that
their collections were to be applied to a different purpose from
what they intended, what they are now accustomed to give when
entering their churches, would immediately be withheld. It is
conceived, besides, that it would be rather a hard case to take pos-
session of the collections of a place of worship, which has been
built by private individuals, simply because that place of worship
is within the pale of the Establishment, and to hold those sacred,
should the building be owned by Dissenters. This would be vir-
tually holding out a premium to schism.
Education. — Many children belonging to this parish receive their
education from its very commencement in the schools of Glasgow.
The schools in the parish in which the ordinary branches of edu-
cation are taught amount to about 40, of which three are in the
village of Govan, three in Partick, one at Strathbungo, and one
at the Three -Mile House. The others are situated in the Barony
of Gorbals. These do not include schools for sewing, &c., super-
intended by female teachers. .The parish teacher has his school
in the village of Govan. In addition to his school-fees and an
excellent school-house and dwelling-house, his emoluments average
upwards of L. 80 annually. These consist of the maximum salary al-
lowed by the Parochial Schoolmasters' Act; L.I, 13s. 4d. received
from the College of Glasgow ; L. 5 from the Trustees of the late
Mrs Thorn, as librarian of Thorn's Library; the interest of 1000
merks Scots, bequeathed to the kirk-session by George Hutcheson
of Lambhill, one of the founders of Hutcheson's Hospital ; and the
rent often acres of land, in which the Trustees of Abraham Hill,
a native of Govan, invested in mortmain, a sum of money given
by him in his lifetime for the purpose of educating ten poor child-
ren. The following schools are in the Barony of Gorbals: —
716 LANARKSHIRE.
1. The Macfarlane School— The late Mrs Waddell of Stone-
field, whose own name was Elizabeth Macfarlane, bequeathed
L. 2000 Sterling, in trust, for building and endowing this school.
The school-house, with a house for the teacher, was built in 1833.
Sixty girls are educated in this school gratis. The management
is vested in the magistrates, minister, and three elders of the kirk-
session of Gorbals.
2. Gorbals Poor's School. — More than 130 children receive in-
struction in this school, which is supported chiefly by the benevo-
lence of the Gorbals congregation, and an annual donation from
the magistrates.
3. The Gorbals Juvenile and Infant School. — This commodious
edifice, which has two play-grounds attached to it, was built in 1836,
by private subscriptions, and a grant from Government. Upwards
of 300 children, who pay a small fee, are educated in it by two
teachers. The direction is in the hands of a committee of the
subscribers. In 1837, a Juvenile and Infant School was likewise
erected in Partick. The ground on which this handsome struc-
ture stands, together with the* two play-grounds, was the gift of
Mr Bogle of Gilrnonehiil, who, with similar liberality, had pre-
viously given the ground on which the church of Partick is built.
Each of the two school -rooms is 42 feet long and 24 feet wide ;
and one of the private class-rooms is 15 feet long and 1 1 feet wide,
and the other 1 1 feet long and 10 feet wide. The whole erection,
to which Government contributed L. 350, cost upwards of L.1000.
There is another school-house in Partick, and also one in Govan,
and one at Strathbungo, which were built by private subscriptions,
and to which there are attached dwelling-houses for the teachers.
Gorbals Popular Institution. — The object of this institution,
which had its origin in 1833, is the diffusion of science by means
of public lectures, and a library, which now consists of 1100 vo-
lumes. The management is committed to the magistrates, coun-
cillors, and clergymen of the Barony of Gorbals, and twenty direc-
tors, who are chosen annually from the subscribers, and the per-
sons who hold class tickets. Since the commencement of the in-
stitution, comprehending a period of six years, 324 lectures have
been delivered to 3735 students, chiefly operatives, on natural
philosophy, chemistry, geology, astronomy, political economy, po*
pujar anatomy, physiology, &c. The subscriptions which have
been received in the course of that time amount to L. 264, 8s.
8|d., and the money arising from the sale of tickets to L. 368,
5s. 2d.
GOVAN. 717
Thorn's Library. — The widow of the Rev. William Thom, for-
merly minister of Govan, founded this library. It contains all the
books which were in her possession at the time of her death, and
such other works as were purchased by her trustees, with the sum
of L. 100, which by her will she destined to this purpose. There
are now above 600 volumes in this library. These are lent out to
the parishioners, on the payment of 6d. quarterly. The trustees
are the, minister of the parish, the ministers of St David's and St
Andrew's Glasgow, and, after the death of certain other gentle-
men named in the will of Mrs Thom, the Trustees of Miller's
Charity, Glasgow.
Barony of Gorbah Savings Bank. — This bank was establish-
ed on the 3d of June 1815. Its affairs are conducted by a presi-
dent, treasurer, secretary, and eighteen ordinary directors, who are
chosen annually from among the depositors above eighteen years
of age, and whose acceptance of office, and the discharge of the
duties connected with it, are enforced by penalties. The bank is
open every Saturday evening from 1 till 9, for receiving and pay-
ing money in sums of one shilling and upwards. The balance of
each evening's transactions is lodged on the following Monday in
one of the Glasgow banks, from which the depositors have hither-
to received one per cent, more than the ordinary rate of interest.
The last report shows the deposits for the year to have been
L. 6271, 9s. 4d. ; the repayments, L. 5508, 17s. 4d. ; the interest
added to accounts, L. 235, 7s. 6d. ; the surplus interest for odd
money and time, L. 42, 16s. Id ; sums deposited by new mem-
bers, L. 20, 16s. 6d ; and the balance at the credit of depo-
sitors, L. 8042, 7s. 4d. The expenses of the management are de-
frayed by the fines, the entry money of a shilling paid by each de-
positor, and the surplus interest received for odd money and time,
no interest being allowed to the depositors for any period less than
a month, or for any sum which does not yield for a month, one-
halfpenny of interest.
Govan Agency of the National Security Savings Bank <of Glas-
gow.— It has only been one year in existence, but during that
time, the number of deposits has been 1356, amounting to
L. 1191, 6s. 9d., and the interest added to the accounts, or paid
to depositors, amounts to L. 22, 5s. 8d. Of the deposits, 586 were
only Is. each, and 457, 3s. on an average. Several friendly so-
cieties have been established in the village of Govan for a consi-
derable time, with a view to afford relief to sick and infirm mem-
718 LANARKSHIRE.
bers, and, in case of death, to assist in defraying funeral charges.
About L. 285 of the funds of these societies have found their way
into the savings bank. The good which has resulted from the
establishment of the bank is in the highest degree gratifying.^ In-
stances might have been mentioned, could this have been done
without a violation of confidence, and perhaps hurting the feelings
of the parties.
Parochial Funds for the Poor.— The poor are provided for
chiefly by an assessment on the parish. This is levied accord-
ing to the actual rental, which is estimated at L. 100,913, 3s. 2d.
For the year 1 838-9, the sum realized by the assessment was
L. 2333, 7s. lid. The amount given for the maintenance of lu-
natics was L. 320, 7s. Id., and for the support of the ordinary en-
rolled poor, L. 934, 16s. 5d. The great number of foundlings and
orphans thrown upon the parish creates a very heavy charge.
Paupers, in ordinary circumstances, receive an allowance which
varies from 2s. a month in the case of individuals, to 10s. in the
case of widows with children. The Trustees of the late Mrs Thorn
distribute, through the medium of the kirk-session, L. 10 annual-
ly in meal and coals, among the poor of the villages of Govan and
Partick. In inclement seasons, and when provisions are high
priced, the wants of the poor in these villages are farther attend-
ed to by private benevolence, administered in the shape of food,
fuel, and clothing. The poor of that part of the parish of Govan
which was annexed to Gorbals quoad sacra, in 1771, were, till the
year 1823, with the exception of the lunatics and foundlings, pro-
vided for along with the poor of Gorbals proper, by the kirk-ses-
sion of Gorbals, out of their church-door collections, proclamation
dues, and other funds at their disposal ; and down to that period
there was no legal assessment for the poor in either of the pa-
rishes ; but since then, the heritors of Gorbals have applied to
the maintenance of their own poor the whole of the collections,
and likewise the dues paid for the publication of marriage banns,
by persons residing in the annexation. An action, therefore, has
been raised, and is now in dependence before the Supreme Court,
for redress, by the heritors and kirk-session of Govan.
Inns and Alehouses. — These are so numerous as to form a great
moral nuisance. Their pestiferous effects on the health and vir-
tuous habits of the people are only too apparent.
February 1840.
PARISH OF DALSERF.
PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
REV. JAMES CRAIG, (Retired.)
REV. JOHN RUSSELL, LL. D., Assistant and Successor*
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — THE ancient name of this parish was Machanshire, pro-
bably from the Gaelic Maghan, a little plain, and the Saxon Scir,
Scire, or Shire, which originally signified a division. In the Old
Statistical Account of the parish of Ecclesmachan, in the county of
Linlithgow, the late Earl of Buchan, a learned and respectable
antiquary, seems to think that Machan is the name of a saint.
Towards the north end of the parish of Dalserf, there is a pro-
perty which still retains the name Machan, or Auld Machan ; and
the whole of the higher and bleaker lands to the south, between
Auld Machan and Draffan, in the parish of Lesmahagow, are still
called Machanshire or Machanmuir. From this ancient designa-
tion of the parish and district, the Duke of Hamilton derives one
of his many titles, as Baron of Machanshire. The name of the
parish appears to have been changed from Machanshire to Dal-
serf, when the parish church (or chapel as it had formerly been,)
was transferred from the district of Machan to its present site on
the banks of the Clyde. According to Chalmers in his Caledonia,
Dalserf is derived from the Gaelic Dal, a holm or flat field, and
Sarf, a serpent or service tree, and thus will signify either the vale
of the service tree, or the vale of the serpent, according to the
fancy of the etymologist. When all is conjecture, one supposi-
tion is perhaps nearly as good as another. May the parish not
derive its name from St Serf? There is, I believe, such a saint,
though his history is entirely unknown to me. The term Dal
forms part of the names of several places in the parish.
Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is delightfully situated on
the west bank of the river Clyde, in the middle ward of the county
of Lanark. It is bounded on the north and north-west, by the
parish of Hamilton ; on the west and south-west, by the Avon and
* Drawn up by the Rev. Dr Russell.
720 LANARKSHIRE.
the water of Gander, which separate it from the parish of Stone-
house;' on the south and south-east, by Lesmahagow; and on the
east and north-east, by the river Clyde, by which it is divided from
the parishes of Carluke and Cambusnethan. Its greatest length
from south to north, namely ? from the point where Gander Water
first comes into contact with the parish on the farm of Whitehill,
to the extremity of the farm of Highlees, on the bank of the Clyde,
is about 6^ miles. From the confluence of the Gander with the
Avon on the west, to Sandyholm on the Clyde in the east, the
breadth is 4j miles. In other places it varies from 2 to 3 miles
in breadth, and at the northern and southern extremities runs into
a mere point. The form of the parish is an irregular rhomboid,
containing upwards of 1 1 square miles. The whole country slopes
gently towards the north, and on the east and west sides, partially
and somewhat abruptly towards the Clyde and Avon — the centre
of the parish forming a sort of table-land between the two rivers.
This parish forms part of that narrow isthmus, not more than
60 or 70 miles broad, between the Friths of Forth and Clyde,
which, opening gradually to the sea on each side of the island, par-
ticipates more or less in the temperate breath of the sea-breeze.
The height of the land between this and the west coast is incon-
siderable, and the climate is of course much modified and influ-
enced by the Atlantic. The high lands towards the east, in the
parishes of Shotts, Cambusnethan, and Carluke, cut off our con-
nexion in some degree with the eastern shore, though when the
wind is from that direction we sometimes experience what is called
the eastern haar. The view from the high lands of the parish to
the south is bounded by Tinto, and on the north and north-west
by the Campsie Hills, and the mountains of Dumbarton and Ar-
gyleshires, which, when covered with snow, very materially affect
the temperature of this district.
The following table, drawn up from the observations of a medi-
cal gentleman, some time resident in the parish, will give an idea of
the mean monthly height of the thermometer and barometer, morn-
ing and evening, throughout the year, and of the average quantity
of rain falling.
Thermometer. Barometer.
Morning. Evening. Morning. Evening. Rain.
February, 40.6 39.9 29.8 29.6 1.30
March, 48. 44. 29.60 29. 3 16
April, 51.2 47.47 29.67 29.66 1-87
Average, 46.6 43.52 29.45 29.24 C.33 per quarter.
DALSEBF.
721
Thermometer.
Barometer.
Morning.
May, 58.
Evening.
48.20
Morning.
30.
Evening.
30.
Rain.
.0322
June, 65.
58.
30.
30.
.0674
July, 67.90
59.38
29.8
29.88
4.1
Average, 63.63
55.19
299
29.96
4.1996 per quarter.
August, 64.90
58.30
30.
29.3
.0964
September, 61.30
51.8.1
29.3
28.6
3.
October, 58.3
48.6
29.
28.3
3.16
Average, 61.41
52.55
29.4
28.7
6.2564
November, 48.6
47.3
29.8
29.
1.30
December, 44.3
42.
28.
28.
3.6
January, 42.6
384
28.3
28.
.0872
Average, 45.1 42.5 28.7 28.1 4.9872 per quarter.
The average height of the thermometer throughout the year is
54.1805, morning, and 48.44 in the evening. The barometer in
the morning averages '29.61, and in the evening 29.02. The quantity
of rain falling is 21.7739 inches. These results, if compared with
those in many places lying considerably to the east, will be found
to be in favour of this part of Scotland. At Kinfauns Castle, near
Perth, latitude 56° 23', the mean temperature for the year 1830
was 47.626 ; here it is 48 and upwards ; the quantity of rain which
fell at the former place was 30.85 inches ; here it is only 21.7739
inches. We may probably, however, have a greater number of wet
or cloudy days, although less rain falls in a given time. But whatever
may be the result of a comparison with other places, the climate of
the parish may be described, in general terms, as dry and salubrious.
There are probably few places in Scotland more favourable to
health. The people are not liable to any prevalent distemper.
Epidemics are of rare occurrence, and when they do visit us, are
generally of a mild character, even in the crowded villages, and soon
disappear. Dalserf was one of the few parishes in this neighbour-
hood, which, in 1832, had no case of cholera. The temperature, of
course, varies in different places, according to the degree of eleva-
tion above the level of the Clyde. In the sheltered vale along the
banks of the river, the blossoming of the fruit-trees, and vegetation
in general, are from ten to fifteen days earlier than on the rising
grounds and slopes in the immediate vicinity.
Hydrography. — The principal rivers connected with the parish
are the Clyde and Avon, which form, as has been stated, its east-
ern and western boundary. The stream next in point of size is the
Gander, which falls into the Avon. That portion of the parish
which is bounded by this stream is called the district of Gander
722 LANARKSHIRE.
Water, comprising some excellent farms. The above rivers follow
the general slope of the country, and flow in a northerly direction.
There are nine rivulets or burns, all of which, except one, arise in
the parish, and pursue an easterly direction towards the trough of
the Clyde. These streamlets, though in general insignificant and
sometimes quite dry, are liable, at certain seasons of the year, to be
suddenly flooded, and are torrents in winter. Forcing their way
through the lofty bank which skirts the western side of the river,
they precipitate themselves in many places over the sandstone rocks
in cascades of from 6 to 20 feet in height. The ravines formed
by these water-runs, or gills, as they are here called, are in general
well wooded, and add much to the beauty of the vale of Clyde. It
is scarcely possible to conceive a more beautiful country than Clydes-
dale here is, on both sides of the river, at once highly cultivated
and extremely picturesque. The course of the Avon, on the west-
ern side of the parish, displays also much striking and beautiful
scenery. The banks of this river are bold and precipitous, con-
sisting alternately of beautiful knolls, of abrupt ascent, and cloth-
ed with verdure from the summit to the water's edge, and of lofty
sandstone rocks, the bases of which are washed by the dark waters
of the stream. Even though the Clyde were awanting, the Avon
itself would be sufficient to impart a character of romantic beauty
to the district. The two rivers combined give more beautiful
scenery to the parish than falls to the lot of most places in Scot-
land. The breadth of the Clyde at Milton Bridge, about eighteen
miles above Glasgow, is 56 yards. At Garion Bridge, two miles
farther down, it is 74 yards across. In many places it is much
wider. The velocity of the river varies from three to eight miles per
hour. The Avon, at Millheugh Bridge, is 80 feet across; the
Cander, where it falls into the Avon, is about 50. The springs
vary considerably in different parts of the parish. About the vil-
lage of Larkhall, at the north end, water is always found in a loose
sand or running mud, at from 12 to 18 feet from the surface. A
little to the south-east, where this stratum runs out, no water is to
be found among the clay. The central parts of the parish are ra-
ther deficient in water, and during summer droughts the farmers
are often put to much inconvenience to procure a supply for their
cattle. Towards the Clyde and Avon, springs are more abundant.
There are many chalybeate springs in the parish; and on the glebe
there are two springs, the one of a chalybeate, and the other of a
sulphurous nature, within less than 100 yards of each other. The
DALSERF. 723
latter probably imbibes its peculiar qualities from the sulphuric
acid which abounds in some aluminous or clayey soils. Many of
the waters, when boiled, precipitate the oxide of iron, and the sul-
phate and carbonate of lime. On December 3d, when the ther-
mometer was 47°, the springs were 48°, and the Clyde 44°. Dur-
ing a pretty hard frost the water at the surface of open wells was
about 42.°
Geology. — This parish constitutes part of the great coal basin
or carboniferous formation which runs from Strathingo, near Glas-
gow, in the north, to the water of Douglas in the south, a stretch
of nearly thirty miles. The same seams of coal are found in the
collieries at Glasgow in the west, and in the collieries of Garion-
Gili and Dalserf in the east ; and throughout the whole of this ex-
tent the metals dip to the trough of the Clyde. Within these few
years, coal was wrought on the banks of the Clyde, near the
church, at Woodside, Millburn, and Canderside, lying in a straight
line, extending from the Clyde to the water of Cander. The
following collieries are of long standing and in present operation,
viz. Marlage on the above line, Raploch on the banks of the Avon,
and Skellyton towards the north end of the parish. Within the
last two or three years coal has been sunk for, and found generally
at short distances from the surface, and is now in course of being
wrought at East Machan, close to the mansion-house, Swine-
hill, and Shawsburn, on the side of the road from Edinburgh to
Ayr, and on the farm of Netherburn, belonging to the Duke of
Hamilton. Some additional trials have not yet been brought to a
result. But besides the above going works, an excellent smithy
coal is wrought, in small quantities, at Birkenshaw, on the Avon,
and a similar seam, to a considerable extent, on the lands of East
Machan, near Hairlees. In fact, there are at present no fewer than
eight or nine going collieries, of more or less importance, in the
parish. At Marlage the ell and splint coal are wrought in one
pit, about 30 fathoms deep. The metals here dip at about 20° to
west of north, and the dip is one foot in 10 or 12 feet. The slips
or troubles seldom cross the metals, but run mostly in a north and
south direction. The coal recently begun to be wrought at Ne-
therburn, within half a mile of Marlage, is the second Marlage
seam. It is found at 12 fathoms, is of good quality, and commands
already an extensive sale. At Skellyton an excellent seam of
splint and parrot coal, about 5 feet thick, is wrought at the depth
of from 20 to 25 fathoms. The dip here is the same as at Marlage.
724 LANARKSHIRE.
At Raploch the main or splint coal is wrought in a seam of from
5 to 6 feet, at the depth of 30^ fathoms. The rise is to the east,
and the dip towards the bed of the Avon. The ell coal was for-
merly wrought here to a great extent. It is what is here called
the Canderside coal, 20 fathoms below the splint, that is now
wrought in the new pit at Swinehill. At Shawsburn the ell or
main coal is now in course of being wrought. The fitting at East
Machan, now in operation, is for the Springwell coal, at 1 1 or 12
fathoms depth, one of the seams lying below the splint. The
smithy coal, in the same lands, now taken out near Hairlees, is
supposed to be the splint coal smithied. The coal at East Machan
House is of superior quality, and yields more gas than usual. All
the above collieries have good roads leading to them, and at all of
them the coal is wrought at a very moderate expense, and with
little or no risk to the workmen. Accidents of any kind are of very
rare occurrence. Besides the above seams, which are at present
wrought, there is, at Low Millburn, a thin coal, called the Humph
coal, from 2 feet to 30 inches in thickness, and about 12 or 15 fa-
thoms below the splint coal. It is intermixed with ribs of splint
and soft or yolk coal, burns well, and was formerly wrought to a
considerable extent. The same coal has also been wrought at
Ryehill or Canderside, where the splint coal has long been ex-
hausted. At Birkenshaw, near the spot formerly alluded to, where
smithy coal (of the species called Lightburn soft) is occasionally
wrought, abed of cannel coal, in a vertical position, crosses the bed
of the Avon. Here a slip or dislocation occurs, which sinks the
metals 40 fathoms. On the bank above, the metals to the south
are observed to run out near a rock of a sort of rotten freestone,
of a yellowish colour. About this spot, the strata all rise to the
south : below it those on the Avon rise towards the south-east,
and dip towards the bed of that river.
The parish of Dalserf may be described as one large field of
coal, very accessible in many places, and easily, wrought. It is
much to be regretted that lime and ironstone are not supplied in
equal abundance, so as to cause a larger consumption of coal. A
sort of calm limestone has been wrought formerly at Broomhill,
on the west side of the parish. Like most limestones of the sort
it requires peculiar management, and does not fall down freely,
unless slaked before it cools. There is abundance of iron on
the Avon, and in other parts of the parish, but none of it has
4
DALSERF. 726
yet been wrought. In the course of the last few months trials were
made for ironstone, both by boring and shafts, on the lands of
Machan, and which, if carried to sufficient length, would have been
decisive on this point in regard to the surrounding district. But
the expense was considerable ; and, though very favourable indi-
cations were obtained, the attempt was abandoned without bring-
ing matters to a final issue. The trials were made under the di-
rection of Mr Craig, mineral surveyor; and, though in the mean-
time abandoned, it is the opinion of skilful and practical men, that,
by perseverance, ironstone will be obtained, not only in the lands
of Machan, but in the neighbouring grounds belonging to the
Duke of Hamilton and others.
The numerous new attempts for, and fittings of coal in the pa-
rish, have arisen from the speculative spirit of the age, from the
impulse given by the railroad system, and the increased activity
of the neighbouring ironworks, from the hope of finding ironstone,
and more especially from the expectation that a railroad from
Glasgow to the north of England will pass through the parish,
affording an easy transit for its mineral stores. A survey of the
line has lately been made, with what result is yet to be seen.
But in the meantime the collieries of the parish have a large
and increased sale from the parishes of Lanark, Lesmahagow,
Stonehouse, Strathaven, and Glassford. Even Hamilton, Both-
well, Blantyre, Cambuslang, and East Kilbride, take a part of
their supply of coals from us. Within the last few years, from
12,000 to 16,000 tons of coal used to be sold in the parish annu-
ally, at from 3s. to 3s. 6d. per ton. The quantity of late must
have greatly increased. And that the coal-masters, though their
speculative expectations have not yet been realized, are working,
if not with much profit in some cases, yet without loss, is plain,
from the fact that the price of coals to the inhabitants of the pa-
rish, amidst greatly increased competition, is much the same as
formerly.
The sandstone connected with the above formations is mostly
of a light whitish colour; whereas, farther down the country, near
Hamilton, it is generally, from being impregnated with iron, of a
reddish hue. The best freestone quarries in the parish are on
the Clyde. It was from the quarry at Dalpatrick that the great
columns and finest stones for the recent additions to Hamilton
Palace were taken. Here stones to almost any size may be cut.
There is a freestone quarry on the farm of Skellyton, from which
LANARK. 3 A
726' LANARKSHIRE.
tolerable pavement is procured. At Auld Machan is found a
dark brown sandstone, of a coarse grain, and spotted with black
throughout, resembling the Arenarius radians et decussatus of Lin-
naeus. It stands the weather well, and is excellent for chimney
heads. The old mansion-house of Raploch was built of this ma-
terial. On the banks of the Avon there are several good free-
stone quarries, particularly one on the lands of Broomhill, from
which an excellent stone for building is got, and another called
Bannockstane, on Raploch Braes. From the latter of these, the
village of Larkhall has been mostly built. There is very little
whinstone in the parish. One small dike crosses the Clyde at
Garion Mill, and runs along the face of the high grounds which
skirt the western bank of the river in a southerly direction towards
Craignethan, in the parish of Lesmahagow. Two singular dikes
or reefs of whinstone occur at Birkenshaw. One of these, com-
pletely turned on its edge, crosses the Avon a little above Clock-
symill, now in ruins, to which it formed a natural dam. Both
rise to the south-east. The banks of the Avon abound with pe-
trifying springs, where beautiful specimens of petrified Sphagnums,
Hypnums, and also Marchantias are found. Pipe-clay is found at
Millburn and other places.
Soil. — The soil and surface of the parish vary considerably in
different places, and even on particular farms. The low-lying
holms and haughs in the vale of Clyde are mostly composed of
transported soil, of great depth, formed apparently of the mud and
sand deposited in the course of ages by the damming up of water,
and the overflowings of the river. The under stratum is entirely
composed of sand or gravel. From these narrow plains the banks
rise to the west with a bold and quick ascent to a considerable
height, and are in many places steep and full of precipices. From
the summit of this ridge the land rises very moderately till crossed
by the road from Glasgow to Carlisle, from which it again falls
down towards the Gander and Avon. The village of Dalserf, on
the Clyde, is probably about 120 feet above the level of the sea,
and the highest ground in the parish about 400 feet in elevation.
The soil of the higher grounds is, in general, a very strong heavy
clay, lying upon a stratum of dense argillaceous substance, some-
times seemingly homogeneous, and disposed in regular horizontal
layers, but more frequently of a mixed nature, without any ap-
pearance of divisions in any direction, and interspersed with little
roundish, stones of various descriptions. This under stratum or
DALSERF. 727
subsoil, under all its varying forms and aspects, is generally called
till. A singular stripe of sandy soil, of from half a mile to two
miles in breadth, beginning at Cunnigar, in the parish of Hamil-
ton, runs along the north-west end of this parish, and in a south-
erly direction towards Kittiemuir, in Stonehouse parish. With
this exception, the fields near the Avon are mostly loam, on a
sandy or gravelly subsoil. With the exception of a few acres of
moss in the southern boundary, the whole parish is arable and
under cultivation. When left uncultivated, the ground speedily
becomes covered with whins, broom, and heath. The soil of the
upper part of the parish is in many places much injured by damp.
Zoology. — The wild animals to be met with in the parish are
common to the neighbourhood. In regard to the feathered tribes,
it may be mentioned that a good many varieties of water-fowl fre-
quent the sheltered vale of the Clyde, chiefly in the winter months.
Towards the latter end of the year, especially before storms, im-
mense flights of the common gull ( Larus canus,J occasionally
pass from east to west, but never in a contrary direction. Per-
haps the abundant supply of food which the shores of the immense
Atlantic afford render their return unnecessary. Pheasants, du-
ring the last few years, have become rather plentiful in the woods
and coverts of the parish, and are sometimes seen feeding with
the domestic poultry. The blackcock is occasionally met with
by sportsmen, and the woodcock, at the proper season, much more
frequently. The owl, till within these few years, lived and hooted
undisturbed along our banks ; but by the persevering efforts of
game-keepers, his wild cry is now seldom heard amidst the silence
of night and the gusts of the wind. Towards the end of autumn,
large flocks of plovers from the moorlands frequent the newly
sowed or newly laboured wheat fields. The smaller birds here
are nearly the same as in other places in the neighbourhood.
There is scarcely a cottage in the parish that does not contain
imprisoned linnets, bullfinches, goldfinches, or canaries, sometimes
all these species, and cross breeds of every variety. Several per-
sons, of rather idle habits, make a sort of employment of catching
singing-birds for the supply of the market at Glasgow and other
places.
Salmon, trout, salmon-fry, and par, are found in the Clyde and
other streams in the parish, leading to the amusement of angling
and fly-fishing, although not, it is believed, with very encouraging
results. Previous to the year 1660, and probably long after, ex-
728 LANARKSHIRE.
tensive salmon-fisheries appear to have been carried on in the
Avon, at Broomhill and Patrickholme. Very few are now caught
in any of the waters above Glasgow. For this deficiency in mo-
dern and recent times, the following reasons may be assigned,
namely, — the deepening of the bed of the Clyde in order to im-
prove the navigation of the river, and the great increase of fisheries
below Glasgow ; manufacturing machinery, and chemical and dye-
works erected on the banks of the river; the lime used in agricul-
ture insensibly carried intq the bed of the Clyde, which forms the
trough or common sewer of the whole country ; par and fry-fish-
ing ; the depredations of the porpus, grampus, and other destruc-
tive sea fishes, particularly the grampus, which comes up nearly
as far as the salt water reaches almost every tide at flood, during
certain seasons, in pursuit of salmon, of which it devours great
numbers ; steam-vessels ; and, in so far as this part of the country
is more especially concerned, the obstructions and obstacles to be
encountered at the dam of Blantyre works, and the dam at Mill-
heugh mill on the Avon. Great depredations used to be commit-
ted in this part of the country by spearing the salmon at night,
during the spawning season. It is believed that from the vigilance
of the keepers employed by the Duke of Hamilton and others,
this offence has of late years been considerably checked. There
is a cruive connected with the dam of Clydesmiln, where a few
salmon are occasionally caught. It seems a pretty well ascertain-
ed fact, that wherever the salmon has, from any cause, disappear-
ed from- our rivers, the par is no longer to be found,'— a circum-
stance which certainly gives strength to the idea, that the latter
(the par) is the young of the former.
The parish cannot be said to have any plants but what are com-
mon to this part of Scotland. The woods are chiefly confined to
the banks of the rivers and burns, the central parts of the parish
being bare and unsheltered. On the banks of the Clyde and Avon,
and the sides of the rivulets, plantations, and fringes of natural
woodj of some extent, and of great beauty, abound. They con-
sist chiefly of oak, ash, birch, elm, alder, beech, — holly, gean or
wild cherry, sallows, crab trees, and wild plums of various sorts,
intermixed with hazel, elder, and other shrubs. At one time,
plantations of Scotch fir abounded in the parish, and especially in
that part of it called Machan Muir. Of late years these old belts
have all been cut down, or nearly so, without any attempt being
made to supply their place; and thus many farms have been left
DALSERF. 729
bare and unsheltered. It ought to be mentioned, to the credit of
the Duke of Hamilton, that, within the last five or six years, planta-
tions of considerable extent, consisting of fir and hard-wood of va-
rious kinds, have been laid off in the upper parts of the farms of
Skellyton and Cornsilloch, and other places, which promise to be
in good time a great benefit and ornament to the country. The
other proprietors are doing nothing in the way of planting. It is
the practice of the day to plant young trees in masses, from sim-
ple regard to the growth of the timber, and a cover for game,
without paying attention to the shelter which a more extended
distribution would afford to high lying and exposed lands. The
writer of the present article, without contending for narrow belts,
which are seldom of much use, would recommend a compromise of
views. He feels thoroughly assured, that if the expense incur-
red by the Duke of Hamilton in planting masses of young trees,
had gone to the formation of wide belts, over the whole barony, a
large per centage would have been added to the value of His
Grace's farms. The only argument that can be used against this
view of the subject, is the expense of maintaining' fences around
the new plantations, which, by a good understanding between land-
lord and tenant, need not be much.— In the lawn in front of Dai-
serf House, there is an ash tree of great size and girth, perhaps
one of the finest in Scotland, and which generally attracts the no-
tice of strangers. At Raploch there is an ancient yew tree, one
of the few remaining traces of the old family residence of the Ha-
miltons of Raploch, and which is deserving of notice, on account
of its singular form and great size. It has no fewer than nine
stems, all nearly of equal thickness ; the diameter of the ground
which it covers with its boughs is 40 feet ; and the circumference
of course is about 120. It has been long known by the name of
the Raploch bush.
II.— CIVIL HISTORY.
Machanshire (afterwards Dalserf) was anciently an appendage
and chapelry of the parish of Cadzow, (now Hamilton,) and was
for many ages the property of the crown. The powerful family of
the Comyns at one period had possession of it ; but during the
contested reign of John Baliol, it again became part of the royal
demesnes, and continued as such till the year 1312, when King
Robert Bruce made a grant of it to Walter, the son of Gilbert,
predecessor of the Hamilton family. Since that period, much of
the district has been disposed to cadets of the family, and gentle-
730 LANARKSHIRE.
men of the name. James de Hamilton, son and heir apparent of
James de Hamilton, Dominus de Hamilton, had a charter dated
18th April 1426, "to the lands of Dalserf, in the barony of Ma-
chane," which had escheated to the crown, on account of the said
James having conveyed these lands to his brother David de Ha-
milton, by a charter under his seal, and made him personally in-
feft in the same, without the consent of the king, or governor, in
absence of the king at the time. The descendants of the above
David have been proprietors of the estate of Dalserf, properly so
called, ever since the time of King Robert III. John Hamilton,
son of James Lord Hamilton, became proprietor of Broomhill and
Machane Muir, 16th February 1473. James Hamilton, a de-
scendant of the Hamilton family, was infeft in the estate of Rap-
loch in 1440.
In the fourteenth century, this district was made a barony, and
was afterwards called the barony of Machane or Machanshire.
At what period it obtained the name of Dalserf is uncertain. In
1545, however, David Hamilton of Broomhill had a tack of "the
teinds of Machan Muir;" and so far down as 7th April 1681,
James Hamilton has a charter to the lands of Broomhill, Fleurs,
&c. described as lying within " the barony of Machanshire.'' This
would seem to indicate, that the old designation prevailed till ra-
ther a recent period. The present church bears date 1665, on a
small stone in the southern wall. It is probable, that as early as
the Reformation, if not sooner, the church was removed from Dal-
patrick or Chapelburn, and that the village of Dalserf, near to
which it was built, soon gave name to the whole parish.
The gentlemen of this parish and their retainers, as vassals of
the Hamilton family, were of course involved in many of the trou-
bles and adventures of their feudal superiors, which form matter
of Scottish history. In 1516, John Hamilton of Broomhill, a stout,
hardy, and bold man, though lame, attended the Earl of Arran,
at the taking of the castle of Glasgow, against the Duke of Al-
bany. In 1537, David Hamilton of Broomhill was in France
with the Earl of Arran, at the marriage of Queen Magdalen to
James V. ; and on 10th September 1547, he and Cuthbert Hamil-
ton of Gander, a gentleman of this parish, were slain at the battle
of Pinkie, in attempting to rescue Lord Semple, who had been taken
prisoner. The wars of the Reformation, and the interest which
the Hamilton family took in the fate of Queen Mary, involved the
inhabitants of Machanshire in many troubles and misfortunes.
DALSERF. 731
Robert Hamilton of Dalserf has his name recorded as having
fought for that princess at the battle of Langside in 1568, and as
having incurred forfeiture on that account. But the following ex-
tracts from the " Ada Parliamentorum" would seem to indicate
that there is some mistake in this. " At Edinburgh, 12th July
1568, compeared, Johnne Ramage, reider at the kirk of Dai-
serf, as excusator of Robert Hamilton of Dalserf, and schew,
that the said Robert is sua vexit with infirmities, and sa unable,
that he has lyne bedfast thir eight yeires begane, like as is known
to ane part of the nobility now present, and was ready to make
oath thereupon." Whatever share the above Robert may have
had personally in the affair at Langside, his son Robert, and his
brother Patrick were probably present at the battle ; at least they
were forfeited, but returned from exile with the Lords in 1585.
Gavin Hamilton of Raploch, and commendator of Kilwinning,
was also at Langside along with the Hamiltons ; was one of Mary's
commissioners at York in 1570; and was included in the treaty
of Perth in 1572. John Hamilton of Broomhill was not only
wounded and taken prisoner at the same battle, but about two
years afterwards had his house burnt to ashes by Sir William
Drury, Governor of Berwick.
During the persecuting reigns of Charles II. and James II., the
inhabitants of this parish, in common with the whole neighbour-
hood, suffered much hardship on account of their resistance to
Episcopacy. Traditions of the sufferings of their forefathers are
still cherished in several families. The then laird of Raploch
made himself notorious by his officious zeal in behalf of the go-
vernment, and his severity towards his Presbyterian neighbours.
He survived for several years the Revolution of 1688, and lies
buried in the church-yard of Dalserf. His memory is still in bad
odour in the parish, and his tomb is pointed out at this> day as
that of " the persecuting Raploch."
By an old decreet of locality of stipend to Mr Francis Aird,
minister of Dalserf, of date 19th May 1721, it appears, that, at
that period, the land of the parish was in the hands of the fol-
lowing heritors, viz. " The Noble and Potent Prince, William,
Duke of Hamilton ; Sir James Hamilton of Broomhill, Knight
Barronett ; Gavin Hamilton of Rapploch ; Cuthbert Hamilton of
Gander ; William Hamilton of Dalserf ; Robert Hamilton of
Milnburn ; James Hamilton of Neilsland, (in Hamilton parish,)
and James Wood, portioner of Auld Machane, heritors of the lands
732 LANARKSHIRE.
and parochine of Dalserf." It appears from the above list of heri-
tors, that in 1721, nearly all the land in the parish was possessed
by Hamiltons. Though the principal names and designations re-
main the same, the state of property has been much altered and
modified since the above period. The Hamiltons of Gander and
Broomhill have entirely disappeared.
The first Lord Belhaven was of this parish, being eldest son of
Sir James Hamilton of Broomhill. His first designation was Sir
John Hamilton of Beil. On account of his devoted attachment
to the cause of Charles L, he was, by that unfortunate monarch,
created a peer by the title of Lord Belhaven and Stentoun, 15th
December 1647. His Lordship's next brother James, was ordain-
ed minister of Cambusnethan by Patrick Lindsay, Archbishop of
Glasgow in 1635, and in 1661 was promoted to the bishopric of
Galloway. The bishop seems to have acquired the lands of Broom-
hill from his elder brother, Lord Belhaven, and spent much of his
time at the family mansion. He had two sons, both of whom died
without issue, and the estate came into the possession of his
daughter Jean, married to Mr John Birnie of that ilk. Broom-
hill remained in the possession of the Birnies till little more than
twenty years ago, when, upon the death of the last direct descend-
ant, a lady, the estate was sold by her heir to James Bruce, Esq.
a native of the parish, who had returned with a fortune from India.
The following is a copy of the valuation of the parish, showing,
along with the names of the present heritors, the sum at which
each property is rated in the county cess-book :
The Duke of Hamilton's land, .' . . H^^-SK1 L. 1800 17 2
Dalserf and Millburn, Robert Campbell Hamilton, Esq. . 676 2 8
Raploch, Thomas M' Neil Hamilton, Esq. . . V •? ; 260 0 0
Broomhill, Miss Bruce, . . . . t ~> 250 0 0
West Machan, Mr Robert Burns's heirs, . , . 62 10 0
East Machan, Mr John Burns, . . . . 62 10 0
Howlethole or Dalbeg, late Earl of Hyndford's heirs, , . 51 1 0
Sandyholm, Dr Charles Freebairn, . . . » . 45 0 0
Woodside, Mr James Hutcheson, . » . ^jfl •* 40 0 0
B ir ken shaw, Mr James Lohoar, if f i • • • 33 0 0
Hillstonemyre, Mr John Forrest, . . . 20 15 0
Torland, Mr Archibald Templeton, . . . . 12 0 0
Rosebank, Mr Muir's Heirs, four-fifths, Sir W. C. Anstruther, one- fifth, 4 2 10
Total, L. 3319 18 8
There are, besides, two or three small properties, which have
no separate valuation. The two properties of West and East
Machan, forming what was wont to be called Auld Machan, are at
present advertized for sale. The Lohoars of Birkenshaw, who were
for a considerable time tenants before becoming proprietors of the
3
DALSERF. 733
farm, which was formerly a part of the Broomhill estate, have a tradi-
tion, that they are of French extraction, and that their ancestors,
being Protestants, fled from France, in order to avoid persecution.
Amidst all the changes that have taken place in the lapse of years,
Hamilton is still a prevailing, perhaps the predominant, surname
in the parish.
The ancient residence of the Hamiltons of Dalserf was Alton,
(or Auldtown,) now converted into a farm-steading. Scarcely a
trace remains to show where the lairds of Raploch formerly lived.
The house of Broomhill, formerly mentioned as having been burnt
by Sir William Drury, Governor of Berwick, was, we are told, but
one room wide, and four stories high, with a bartisan. It was
again repaired, and a turnpike added. It was called the Castle of
Auld Machan. In 1563, a mob came to pull down the old Ro-
mish chapel at Broomhill; but the lady of Sir John Hamilton,
meeting them on the way, assured them that they might save
themselves the trouble, as she meant to make a good barn of it.
With this statement they were satisfied, and the chapel was per-
mitted to remain till 1724, when it fell down of its own accord.
The field where it stood is still called Chapel Rone. A private
chapel, belonging to the Raploch family, formerly stood at Chapel
Know, between Raploch and the village of Larkhall; hence the
neighbouring farm of Crossgates was also called Chapeltree.
There were two chapels on the east side of the parish, — one at
Chapelburn, near the old line of road from Hamilton to Lanark,
by Nethanfoot; and another at Dalpatrick, dedicated to the saint
of that name, and also sometimes called the Chapel of the Blessed
Virgin. No traces of either now remain. Near the village of
Larkhall, is a level piece of ground called Bowman's flat, or vul-
garly Bomflat, where, according to tradition, archery was for-
merly practised, after it was reintroduced for some time by the
Stuarts. These parochial practisings were, of course, subservient
to the system of general and stated weaponschawings, of which
Sir Walter Scott gives an account in his novel of Old Mortality.
There is a conical rising ground ( Gallowhill) south-east of Lark-
hall, where, it is said, culprits used in ancient times to be execut-
ed. If we are to be guided by etymology, local executions must
at one time have been general over the country, as there are few
parishes that have not a Gallowhill, or some place indicating the
former use of the gallows. The circumstance is, of course, to be
explained by the local and heritable jurisdictions of former times,
734 LANARKSHIRE.
by " the power of pit and gallows," possessed by feudal superiors
and lords of the soil. The traces of two ancient tumuli may still
be discernedjn this parish. In removing one of these a few years
ago at Dalpatrick, the workmen came upon a stone-coffin, about
two feet and a half long, and one foot and a half wide, composed
of flag stones, in which an urn was deposited. In the coffin some
bones were found, among which was a human under jaw, quite
entire, and containing all the teeth except one. The urn was
about six inches high, of baked earth, reddish without and dark
within, of a coarse texture, narrower at the mouth and bottom, and
apparently formed in a mould of straw, or some such material, before
it was put into the fire. Another urn, of nearly the same shape and
size, but of a whitish colour, of a finer texture, and ornamented about
the handle, was found among the rubbish ; and also a smaller vessel
of baked clay, which appeared to be a lamp. A part of these relics
is in the possession of William Lockhart, Esq. of Milton-Lockhart.
In removing the cairn, a curious whinstone, of a roundish form,
and about four inches in diameter, was picked up, perforated with
a circular hole, through which the radicle of an oak, which grew
near the spot, had found its way. This curiosity is in the posses-
sion of Mr William Henderson, at Dalpatrick, who removed the
tunrmlus. There was formerly another cairn at the soyth-west
end of the parish, called Cairncockle, which occupied the highest
land in the whole district. Some old persons recollect of its be-
ing surrounded by a ditch like a fortification. It has long been re-
moved. • Castlehill and Cairnsilloch, (i. e. the dirty tumulus, or
burial-place for mean people,) near the village of Dalserf, were no
doubt, as their names intimate, once remarkable places. About
twenty years ago an earthern pot was dug up in a garden in the
village of Millheugh, containing brass or copper and silver coins
of the reigns of Elizabeth, James I., and his son, Charles I. Near
the same spot an ancient silver coin was got when deepening a
mill lead.
The Rev. John M'Millan, the well-known successor of Cargill,
Cameron, and Renwick, and the individual from whom the Ca-
meronians or Covenanters, in modern times, are frequently called
M'Millanites, resided for some time at Braehead, near Millheugh,
in this parish, and was buried in the churchyard of Dalserf, near
the south-east corner of the church. He was father of Mr M'Mil-
lan, who was settled at Sandyhills, near Glasgow, and grandfather
of the late Mr M'Millan of Stirling, Professor of Theology to the
Reformed Presbytery. On Sabbath, 8th September 1839, a ser-
DALSERF. 735
mon was preached in the churchyard of Dalserf, by the Rev. Dr
Symington of Paisley, and a collection made for the purpose of
erecting a suitable monument to Mr M'Millan's memory.
There is no history of the parish, either printed or in manu-
script ; but some interesting notices of its former state and condi-
tion, and of the families of the principal heritors, may be found in
Hamilton of Wishaw's manuscript History of Lanarkshire, and in
Anderson's Memoirs of the Hamilton Family and its branches.
Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers, till they came
into the hands of the present schoolmaster and session-clerk, had
been very irregularly kept. Indeed, for nearly fifty years preced-
ing 1812, there had been no regular session in the parish. In
August 1812, a kirk-session was formed, and from that date there
are accurate minutes of session business, and carefully kept regis^-
ters of proclamations of bans and of baptisms. Of late years a
register of burials has also been kept. The old parochial records
are contained in two volumes of a very confused and miscellaneous
description. The earliest entry is the registration of a baptism,
30th November 1738.
Eminent Men. — The parish has little to boast of in the way of
eminent characters connected with it, either by birth, residence,
or burial. In addition to the names of persons already incidentally
noticed, however, it may be mentioned, that there is a tradition
that the celebrated Bishop Burnet once lived at Broomhill, and
that he there wrote a part of his works. This is probably a mis-
take. At least, the tradition cannot be authenticated, and has pro-
bably arisen from his being confounded with the before-mentioned
James Hamilton, Bishop of Galloway and Laird of Broomhill.
The Rev. James Hog, whose name appears rather prominent in
public affairs during the stormy period succeeding the revolution
of 1688, and who was one of the authors of the well-known book
called the " Marrow of Modern Divinity," which caused so much
controversy and discussion in the church, was for some time minis-
ter of Dalserf. He appears to have been a talented, learned, and
pious man; both as a member of the church courts and as a parish
minister, he had his own share of difficulties and troubles ; and,
after a short ministry, resigned his charge. After a brief interval
he was appointed minister of Carnock, where he laboured with
much acceptance and success for many years.* Mr Hog was the
* See interesting notice of this individual in a late number of the Edinburgh Christ-
ian Instructor.
736 LANARKSHIRE.
author of a considerable number of pamphlets and theological tracts,
and died at Edinburgh in 1736. Mr John Pinkerton, the well-known
historian, critic, and antiquary, was descended from a family, who at
one time resided at Dalserf, though they afterwards removed to the
neighbourhood of Edinburgh. Several of his connexions and re-
lations live in the vicinity, and claim the privilege of burying in the
church-yard.
III. — POPULATION.
No account of the population in ancient times is known to exist.
Beginning with the return made to Dr Webster in 1755, the fol-
lowing statement will shew the amount of population at each census
subsequently taken by direction of Parliament, and the increase
during the several intervals.
1755, . 756 souls, 0 increase.
1791, .1100 . 344
1801, . 1130 . 30
1811, . 1660 . 530
1821, . 2054 . 394
1831, . 2680 . 626
Total increase in 76 years, 1924
By the census of 1831, the number of males was 1337, and of
females, 1343, = 2680. In order to meet the inquiries of the
General Assembly and the Religious Instruction Commissioners,
with regard to church accommodation, a careful census of the po-
pulation was taken in 1835. The return was 2874 souls, shewing
an increase in eighty years of 2118. The population now (1840)
must be considerably upwards of 3000. The increase is entirely
in the villages, and especially in Larkhall and neighbourhood.
The agricultural and rural population is rather decreasing, from
enlargement of farms, and improved habits of husbandry. Houses
for country cottars will soon disappear. There is even a scarcity
of country tradesmen and artisans, living among and supplying the
wants of their farming and labouring neighbours. The villages
are in course of rapidly absorbing the whole population, except
farmers and their servants. For the large increase of the manu-
facturing and village population of late years, several reasons may
be assigned. The Larkhall district has a salubrious air, good
water, and abundance of fuel and freestone. It is near the town
of Hamilton, intersected by the great road from Glasgow to Car-
lisle, and enjoys means of ready communication with the whole
surrounding country. Ground for feuing is obtained easily, and
on moderate terms. Of this facility, advantage has been taken by
building societies, (elsewhere referred to and explained), which?
DALSERF. 737
of late years, have had a powerful influence in accelerating the in-
crease of the population. Nothing but a cessation of the demand
for cotton weavers, or something deeply affecting the manufactures
of the country, is likely to prevent this increase from being pro-
gressive.
About two-thirds of the population live in villages. The vil-
lages of the parish, exclusive of two small collections of colliers'
houses, with their respective populations, were as follows, in 1831 :
Houses. Families. Males. Females. Souls.
Larkhall, 139 - 188 - 469 - 494 - 963
Pleasance, - 45 - 53 - 154 - 143 - 297
Millheugh, - 42 - 45 - 118 - 119 - 237
Rosebank, - 24 - 38 - 74 - 102 - 176
Dalserf, 19 - 22 56 - 55 111
Totals, 269 276 871 913 1784
Average number of marriages for the last seven years, 24
of births, 77
of deaths, - 30
A register of burials was begun in 1831, and has since been
carefully kept. The following table gives the deaths, at different
ages, for five years :
1831. 1832. 1833. 1834. 1835.
Under 5 years, 6 - 9 7 - 13 - 12
5 to 10, - 2 -1 0 0 4
10 to 20, - 0 2 4 1 - 2
20 to 30, - 0 7 1 5 5
30 to 40, - 0 - . 1 0 1 1
40 to 50, 2-1-1-2-3
50 to 60, - 0 1 0 0 3
60 to 70, , 2 1 1 0 6
70 to 80, 2-7-8-3-5
80 to 90, 2-3-5-3-2
90 to 100, - 0-0-0-0-1
Still-born, - 1 -1 _1_ 0- 0
Totals,
17 w^ 34
28
28
44
The following
is a
register of the
deaths in
each month
for the
above years :
1831
1832.
1833.
1834.
1835.
January,
1
6 ••'.
5
3
4
February,
5
5
2
2
8
March,
4
3
5
2
5
April,
0
3
0
1
6
May,
2
5
4
1
5
June,
2
5
0
2
0
July,
0
2
1
3
0
August,
0
2
5
4
1
September,
1
2
0
2
1
October,
0
1
2
3
3
November,
0
0
0
2
6
December,
2
0
4
3
5
17 34 28 28 44
738 LANARKSHIRE.
If we take an average of five years, beginning with 1831, for mar-
riages, births, and deaths, we shall find that, during that period,
there were 126 marriages, 476 births (386 for Churchmen, and
about 90, at 18 per annum, for Dissenters,) and 151 deaths, giv-
ing an average of 25 marriages, 95 births, and 30 deaths yearly.
In reference to the whole population, this is nearly one marriage
to every 115 individuals, one birth to 30, and one death to 95.
From the preceding tables, it will be seen that, as might be ex-
pected, the greatest number of deaths in each year is among per-
sons under five, or above seventy years of age, the former class ave-
raging 51, and the latter 41, in five years. The great number of
children dying in infancy, among a population so healthy, is de-
serving of notice. Of thirteen children who died under five years
of age in 1834, only one had reached the a,ge of four years ; 2, six
months ; 4, two months ; 2, one month ; and 4 were only a few
days or hours old. Is there not reason to believe that the treat-
ment of infants among the labouring classes admits of much im-
provement ? In five years, there were only three still-born chil-
dren, or about one in 50 births. The proportion of twin-births is
nearly the same. The proportion of male to female births is as
11 to 10. One in 20 marriages is unproductive, and the rest have
about 3 children per marriage. The ratio of marriages dur-
ing the five years above referred to*, is, to every 100 inhabitants,
about 3^; of births, 12| nearly; and of deaths something short
of 3.
The number of families in the parish by last census was 514,
and of inhabited houses 423, shewing that there were 91 more
families than houses ; families living in villages 276, and in the
country 238; inhabited houses in the country 154; in villages
269. Average number of individuals to each house upwards of 6,
and to each family about 5, viz. 6 in villages, and 4 in the country.
Males upwards of twenty years of age, 617. Inhabitants to the
square mile about 261. There may be said to be no uninhabited
houses in the parish at present, except a few in the country in a
dilapidated and ruinous state, and which in all likelihood will never
be repaired. The number of houses in course of erection by build-
ing societies varies at very short intervals, but may be stated as
being at present about 6 or 8 in the course of the year.
The following classification, made in 1835 and 1836, will shew
the relative numbers of Churchmen and Dissenters in the parish
DALSEHF. 739
at that date, with the proportions of the poor and working- classes
belonging to the two denominations : —
Established Other Of no religious ^, ,
Church. denominations. denomination.
2-294 552 28 2874
Poor and working classes, 1986 503 27 2516
The persons (28 in number), described as being of no religious
denomination, were nearly all nominally of the church, and would
probably have been very averse to being returned as above. But,
having ceased for some years to attend public worship anywhere,
they were excluded from the list of persons belonging to the Church
of Scotland.
The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50
and upwards is 8 or 9. The principal heritors are mostly non-
resident. Their mansion-houses, however, are, in general, let to
respectable tenants, which makes their absence the less felt. Four
families of independent income reside in the parish. About the
same number of families live on their private means, less or greater,
without following any industrial occupation.
The people of the parish may be described in general terms as
a well-favoured race, of light and florid complexion, and in point
of size and strength fully equal to the average of the district.
There are 2 deaf and dumb persons, 3 blind, and 6 who are
weak or disordered in mind. Of this last class 4 may be described
as fatuous, while 2 are liable to fits of violence, and require occa-
sional restraint.
A disease resembling the goitre of alpine countries is rather
prevalent in the parish, especially among females, 10 or 12 of
whom are affected by a large and unseemly swelling of the throat.
The disease of late years has been on the increase. There is,
probably, some local reason for it ; but the medical men who have
been applied to have not been able to give any explanation of the
matter.
In point of intelligence and general character the inhabitants of
the parish are, at least, upon a level with their neighbours around
them. Not a few natives of the parish have realized fortunes in In-
dia and elsewhere. Several of.these have, at various times, pur-
chased estates in different parts of the country, and founded fami-
lies, now ranking among the landed proprietary and gentry of
Scotland. In stating the general character of the people, moral
and religious, the same set of remarks will not apply equally to the
agricultural and manufacturing population. The former, or rural
740 LANARKSHIRE.
class, are entitled to be described as cleanly in their bouses and
persons, and neat in iheir dress. The standard of dress among
them, indeed, is rather too high, often preventing persons who
cannot appear like their neighbours from attending church for a
time. Speaking generally, however, this class of the population
are exemplary in their attendance on public worship and the ordi-
nances of religion. They are a simple-minded, sober, industrious,
and frugal race — respectful to their superiors and kindly towards
one another — peaceable and inoffensive, and not given to meddle
with public matters, either civil or ecclesiastical. The manufac-
turing population present a picture, in many respects, very different
from this. The weaving class, from being enabled at a very early
period of life to earn a man's wage, marry, for the most part, in
mere boyhood, and begin housekeeping on credit. What is begun
in imprudence is too often followed by thoughtlessness and impro-
vidence afterwards ; and, if even occasional dissipation be com-
bined with the burden of a family, it cannot be wondered at that
the rapid result is poverty, squalor, and wretchedness. The want
of clothes speedily prevents attendance on public worship, or, at
least, is the apology urged, and the Sabbath is spent in loitering
and sin. This class, moreover, is too often very pestiferously busy
in regard to politics and church and state affairs — trying to reform
the institutions of the country, instead of trying to reform them-
selves, and to become sober, exemplary, and useful members of
society. From this description there are many honourable excep-
tions ; or, rather, perhaps, the above description ought to be taken
as an exception from the general character of the manufacturing
population. In Larkhall and the surrounding manufacturing dis-
trict, there is a great number of just as respectable and well-con-
ducted persons as any who are to be found in the parish. Still
the above remarks apply by far too generally. It is much to be
deplored, that the cotton trade, which has added so much to the
general wealth and resources of the country, should be allowed to
be the means of bringing down the standard of the religious and
moral character of the population. The enlightened and patriotic
interference of Government, in regard to education and pastoral
superintendence, would do much to remove or abate the moral
evil, and at the same time to increase the temporal good. For it
is righteousness alone which exalteth a nation.
DALSERF. 741
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Families employed in agriculture, 1 15
trade and manufactures, - 367
All other families, . - 32
-514
Agricultural occupiers of the first class, 85
second class, 12
Families of agricultural labourers, - N - 68
115
employed in manufactures, weaving, &c. - 226
retail trade and handicraft, 83
of capitalists, professional persons, &c. &c. 32
employed in labour not agricultural, - 58
399
Males employed in agriculture, upwards of 20, • - 168
cotton weaving, - 230
work not agricultural, - 77
trade and handicraft, - - - 93
568
Capitalists and professional men,
Inferior and retired tradesmen, - 9
600
Farm-servants upwards of 20 years, 34
under 20 years, 49
All female servants, - ... 53
136
Colliers, ... .48
Freestone quarriers, - - - 12
60
Cotton weavers, by a late census, - - 462
These proportions, founded on a preceding census, would re-
quire at the present date, now that cotton-weaving and coal work-
ing have much increased, and that great changes have taken and
are taking place, to be much modified, as will be shown by the
approaching census of 1841.
The parish contains upwards of 11 square miles, 5725 Scots
acres, or about 7219 acres, imperial measure. The land, with the
exception of a small patch or two of moss, is all either regularly
or occasionally cultivated. Agriculture in its present improved
state is of comparatively recent date in this part of Lanarkshire.
So late as the year 1769, the absurd and ruinous system of croft
and outfield continued to prevail. The croft was dunged every
third or fourth year ; the field land was alternately cropped and
rested, without being either fallowed or manured. This practice
had been followed from time immemorial. The proportion of field
to croft land was, in most farms, as three, four, and sometimes five
to one ; Machan Muir was mostly of this worst description of soil,
and hence a proverbial saying in the parish and neighbourhood,
" He that's rich and wants to be puir,
Let him tak' a mailin' in Machan Muir."
LANARK. 3fi
742 LANARKSHIRE.
This adage has fior many years ceased to be applicable, and is
no longer repeated. For, by judicious farming, the district, once
so reproachfully spoken of, now contains some of the best and most
productive farms in the parish. The husbandry at present pur-
sued is of a mixed kind, judiciously adapted to the varying soils
and capabilities of different farms, and of the several portions of
each farm. Hence every farmer depends partly on his grain crops,
of various kinds, and partly on his dairy produce. In this mode of
farming there is far less risk to the tenant than when the course
pursued is more regular and systematic. If the wheat crop fails,
there are probably fields of good oats, beans and pease, to keep
the farmer from despondency ; and even when the whole grain
crops are deficient, as sometimes happens, there is still the produce
of the dairy to meet the demands of the landlord for rent. If
farmers in this part of the country seldom realize large profits, they
just as seldom, from seasons and circumstances, incur absolute ruin.
None but native agriculturists do any good. Farmers from more
favoured districts who have taken farms, at different times, in the
parish and neighbourhood, and attempted a regular course of hus-
bandry, have always ruined themselves in a very short time. With
the exception of the low-lying grounds in the vale of Clyde, and a
few stripes on the banks of the Avon, the land of the parish
is not fit for green crops. Fallowing has in most cases to be re-
sorted to. Wheat and oats are the principal crops. Wheat
succeeds best in strong soils, and yields, according to circumstances,
from 25 to 60 bushels per acre. Oats are hardy, and succeed
with less manure and culture. The variety most in repute for
the higher grounds of the parish is late Ayrshire; but which,
from long use, has acquired in this part of the country the name
of Machan Moor oats. It yields a large quantity of straw and
fodder for cattle. The produce in grain from an acre of oats,
varies from 25 to 60 bushels. Beans and pease thrive well on
lands which are in good order. On poorer lands they give a re-
turn of from 12 to 24 bushels per acre. The produce of an acre
of potatoes, in soils adapted to them, has been found to weigh
from 12 to 13 tons. They are not only much used as an article
of human food, but likewise for feeding cattle, especially milch
cows. Till a few years back, very few turnips were raised. They
are now getting into more general cultivation on light soils, and
are found to pay as well as potatoes. Carrots aud mangel-wurzel
have for some time formed part of the cropping of the farm of
DALSEIIF. 743
• Raploch mains, and have been sold at from L. 2 to L. 3 per ton,
or at the rate of from L. 30 to L. 40 per acre. Rye is sometimes
sowed in orchards and other places shaded by trees, from its not
being liable to be eaten by birds. It must be added, that neither
is it at all savoury, in this part of the country, as an article of hu-
man food. Hay yields from one to two tons per acre. There is
a little flax raised for domestic use ; but the farmers do not think
it a sure crop on stiff clay.
The management of the dairy, in making butter and cheese,
and fattening calves, is well understood — and the farmers' wives
can, in this respect, vie with any of their neighbours in the
surrounding parishes. The cows are mostly of the Ayrshire
breed. On some farms, however, a mixed breed is kept, ra-
ther coarser and wider in the horn than the former, and which
is- supposed to yield a larger quantity of milk. In 1791, there
were 300 milch cows in the parish, and about 00 young were an-
nually reared. At present there are 500 milch cows, 350 young
cattle, and about 100 are reared every year. The number of pigs
is about 450. Very few sheep are kept. The produce of the
dairy is made into full milk cheese — or churned, and the milk and
butter sold among the villagers of the parish, or in the town of Ha-
milton. Many of the villagers themselves, however, have a taste
for keeping cows. There are upwards of 40 in the village of Lark-
hall alone. The horses employed in husbandry are all of the
Clydesdale breed, and of the best kind. The farmers in general
are most attentive to the rearing of the best sorts of cattle, and
have often obtained premiums at competitions for stock. In par-
ticular, Mr James Frame, tenant of the farms of Broomfield and
Overton, on the Hamilton estate, is well known as having often
obtained prizes at the exhibitions before the Highland and Agri-
cultural Society of Scotland, and county and parochial associations
of a similar kind.
Plantations, Sfc. — The number of acres under wood, whether
natural or planted, is not great, and would require to be much in-
creased. The plantations and coppices are, from year to year,
carefully pruned and thinned. In regard to trees, it is the or-
chard of fruit trees that is of most interest and importance in this
part of the country. Fruit cultivation is of great antiquity in the
district. The fruit district of Clydesdale may be said to extend
from near Lanark on the one hand, to the extremity of the parish
of Bothwell towards Glasgow on the other, comprising a distance
of about twenty miles. The banks of the Clyde at Dalserf are
744 LANARKSHIRE.
nearly in the centre of this favoured range. The orchards are '
chiefly planted on the declivities which overlook the river, or on
the sides of the ravines which run into it, and very few of which
could be cultivated by the plough. A few acres are planted on
the holms and banks along the side of the Avon, on the western
boundary of the parish, but not with the same success as in the
Vale of Clyde. The plum district is not co-extensive with the
general fruit one. Taking Dalserf as the centre, the plum range,
on both banks of the river, does not extend beyond three or three
and a-half miles on either side. Within these limits, several kinds of
plums appear to be indigenous, and thrive and yield a crop in
hedgerows, and without cultivation. The native varieties of this
sort of fruit are, burnets, whitcorns, horse-jags (harsh gage?)
bullets and devons — all of which grow luxuriantly, and yield fruit
without care, besides filling the surrounding ground with suckers.
It was long believed, that, even in this favoured tract, grafted
plum trees would not thrive unless reared against walls. This
idea has been corrected by recent experience. It has now been
ascertained, that magnum bonums, Orleans plums, precoce de
Tours, green gages, red imperials, and other varieties, flourish as
luxuriantly, as standards, as the indigenous plums, and, taking the
average of a few years, yield a larger crop. They merely require
the same treatment as apple and pear trees, namely, regular cul-
tivation and manuring. Of apples, about sixty varieties are now
cultivated, viz. sixteen sorts of summer, twenty of harvest, and twen-
ty-four of winter apples. Of pears, there are about twenty-four kinds.
Different kinds of fruit prefer different soils and situations. Speak-
ing generally, however, orchards are observed to succeed best on
a clay soil. On sandy land, the trees grow faster, but yield less
fruit, the blossoms and leaves being more exposed to blight and
the ravages of the caterpillar. In preparing the ground for an
orchard, every springy or damp place is carefully drained, either
by open or covered drains. Young trees are planted at the depth
of from six to eight inches, and the earth raised a foot or eighteen
inches around them above the roots, to enable them to withstand
the blast. For some years at first, much attention is required to
prevent the bark and twigs from being bitten and destroyed by the
hares in winter. A tree that has been hare-bitten, even to a small
extent, seldom does any good ; and some young orchards, planted
at considerable expense, have, from want of care in this respect,
been entirely ruined. Some of the old orchards are very irregu-
DALSERF. 745
larly planted. The system pursued at present is to set out the
young trees in rows, at from ten to thirty feet distant from each other,
with a space of from ten to twenty feet between the trees. Regular
and careful cultivation is required, especially when the trees are
young. The expense of this is covered by the under-crops, such
as potatoes, oats, beans, barley, rye, &c. Potatoes, with dung,
are generally followed by oats, and then by clover and rye- grass.
But very often, when the soil admits of it, gooseberry bushes are
planted along with the young fruit trees, so as to prevent any re-
gular under crop. For a good many years the two thrive well to-
gether, and the gooseberries soon yield more than defrays the ex-
pense of cultivation. The tacksmen of the cottage orchards in
this neighbourhood are bound by their leases to apply manure
once in four years. Lime occasionally used has great effect, es-
pecially in old orchards, in quickening the growth and productive-
ness of the trees. Gooseberries, in the way above-mentioned,
and sometimes in plantations by themselves, are cultivated to a
considerable extent. The bushes thrive best on a light soil. It
is needless to plant them in stiff clay. The ground around the
bushes requires to be delved and cleaned of weeds every year, and
dunged once in two years. The kinds most in repute at present
are, the early sulphur, the Warrington, the amber, Harvie's red,
and other varieties of the jam-berry. Taking one year with ano-
ther, gooseberries are a surer and more productive crop than large
fruit.
The extent of ground occupied by orchards within the bounds
of the parish is about 50 acres ; 6 or 7 of which lie on the banks
of the Avon. In these orchards there is wood enough to yield,
at a full crop, about 8000 bolls. The fruit boll contains 20 sleeks.
A sleek of plums weighs 60 Ibs., of pears 50 Ibs., and of apples
40 Ibs. The average amount of bolls per annum is greatly below
the above statement. During the late war, the prices of fruit
were often prodigiously high, and large rents were obtained. This
state of things has long since passed away. For some years past,
the dealers have seldom ventured to give beyond L. 2, 10s. or
L. 3 for a boll of fruit, taking all kinds and varieties into account.
The facility with which Irish, English, and foreign fruit is now
brought to Glasgow by means of steam, has tended much to di-
minish the incomes of the Clydesdale orchard men. The recent
reduction of the duty on foreign apples to a mere trifle, bids fair
746 s LANARKSHIRE.
to put a stop, ere long, to the cultivation of this kind of fruit al-
together. Indeed, even before this check occurred, the price of
apples of inferior kinds had fallen so low in years of tolerable
plenty, as scarcely to be worth the expense of pulling and carting
to Glasgow. An attempt was accordingly made, two or three
years ago, to have them regularly converted into cider. A cider-
press was established in the parish of Cambusnethan, which has
yielded a very promising beverage. The experiment was checked
by the total failure of the fruit crop in 1839, and the result in
better years is yet to be seen. Gooseberries, plums, and pears
being less liable to be affected by competition, still yield an en-
couraging return to the cultivator and dealer, and good table fruit
of all kinds, including the better sorts of apples, whether for
desert or baking, is in general in fair demand. The fruit of
Clydesdale is taken for the most part to Glasgow or Paisley, some-
times to Edinburgh ; and of late years, since the Glasgow market
has got supply from other quarters, a good deal of it has been
disposed of in the towns and villages of the more immediate neigh-
bourhood. The raising and management of fruit gives employ-
ment at certain seasons to a considerable number of persons of
both sexes, young and old, and any thing materially affecting this
branch of rural industry is deeply felt in the whole district. Con-
siderable dissatisfaction and alarm have of late been excited, by
the alteration of the duties on foreign fruit.
Rent of Land. — The average rent of land in the parish is from
10s. to L.2, 10s. per acre. There are spots which are let for a
limited period, at from L. 2 to L. 4 per acre. In general, the
leases are for nineteen years, sometimes, however, for seven and
fourteen, and on the several estates there are a few tenants at
will. Grazing is paid for at from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3, 10s. per cow
or ox.
Wages. — Labourers have about 12s. per week in summer, and
9s. in winter. From the extent of orchard ground under the
spade, this class of persons is in general well employed when the
weather permits. Delving among fruit trees and gooseberry
bushes requires some skill and experience, and is not safely en-
trusted to any but individuals belonging to the district, or at least
well acquainted with the kind of work. Carpenters get 2s. 6d.
per day, and masons about 16s. 6d. per week. The price of all
articles required for the different purposes of rural and domestic
DALSERF. 747
economy is fully as high as in the neighbouring market-town of
Hamilton.
The Duke of Hamilton has twenty-two farms in the parish, rent-
ed at from L. 50 to L.400 per annum. The farm-steadings, re-
cently built, are in general commodious and neat. Those of older
date are miserable hovels ; but, as they become unfit for occupa-
tion, they will, no doubt, be replaced by buildings of a better descrip-
tion. Tile-draining has commenced in several places of the pa-
rish with good effect, and the Duke of Hamilton has recently esta-
blished a manufactory of draining tiles near Larkhall, for the sup-
ply of his own tenants, and for sale in the neighbourhood. The
farms are mostly let at rack-rent. Still the farmers go on improv-
ing, and pay their rents well. Tenants appear always to do best
with the stimulus of a smart rent over their heads. The least
thriving portion of the farmers of the parish are the small proprie-
tors who occupy their own grounds.
Rental, fyc. — The old valuation of the parish, as elsewhere. stat-
ed, is about L.3320 Scots. The real rental given in to the Teind
Court before the last augmentation of stipend was L.5764, and is
now probably pretty much the same. The Duke of Hamilton's
proportion of this sum is about L. 2389, 8s. Id. The average
gross amount of raw produce may be estimated as follows :
Grain of all kinds, hay, &c. . \' L. 7000 0 0
Potatoes, turnips, carrots, beet, &e. . . 1910 0 0
Land in pasture, at L. 3 per cow, and L. 2 per head for young cattle, 2200 0 0
Orchard and garden produce, .... 1250 0 0
Coal, quarries, &c. ... 2000 0 0
Miscellaneous produce, . . 640 0 0
L. 15,000 0 0
Taking into account the number of acres in the parish, the gross
produce is at the rate of L.3 per acre nearly. But from the acres
there must be a considerable deduction for roads, channels of rivers,
sites of villages, &c.
Manufactures. — The principal manufacture in the parish is cot-
ton-weaving, conducted for the most part by local agents, employ-
ed at a per centage by the manufacturing houses in Glasgow. The
new bleachfield about to be commenced at Millheugh will give em-
ployment to a considerable number of hands, and be of benefit to
the parish. The lace manufacturers of Hamilton employ a great
many of the females. The prices of weaving and lace-making are
frequently varying ; but, in general, it requires long hours to make
a very moderate wage. The manufacturing population is healthy.
748 LANARKSHIRE.
The employment of cotton-weaving is overstocked; and the weavers
themselves are tempted to continue and increase the evil. A poor
man earning an insufficient wage is led to put his boys and girls on
the loom at a very tender age, in order to swell the amount. It is
difficult to see how this state of things could be remedied except
by providing factory employment or other kind of work for the
young.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Market-Town. — The nearest market-town is Hamilton, about
four miles' and a~half distant from the centre of the parish. Far-
mers and others belonging to Dalserf, very generally repair to
Hamilton on Friday, the market-day. There are several villages
in the parish. Dalserf, (which derives its name from the parish, or
gives to the parish its name,) was at one time a clachan or kirk-
town of some size and importance. It now consists merely of a few
low-roofed cottages, on the two sides of the lane leading from the
Lanark road to the parish church. Till about twenty years ago,
when Garion Bridge was built, there was a ferry at Dalserf, con-
necting the two banks of the river, and which caused considerable
stir in the village. Standing close to the mansion-house of Dal-
serf, the proprietors for a good while past have felt a natural de-
sire to have it wholly removed, and it bids fair very soon to dis-
appear altogether from the landscape. Nothing but the presence
of the parish church, which cannot be so easily removed, saves the
few remaining houses from destruction. The village of Rosebank,
about a quarter of a mile up the Clyde, has arisen in the course of
the last thirty years to supply the deficiency of dwellings occasion-
ed by the decaying state of Dalserf. Rosebank is a beautiful vil-
lage, standing nearly opposite to Mauldslie Castle. Building,
however, has already nearly come to a close in it, from the want of
ground for feuing. There is a positive want of house accommoda-
tion in this part of the parish. Millheugh, on the Avon, is a place
of considerable antiquity. At one time, it had a brewery, a distil-
lery, a waukmill, and an inkle-factory, all of which have disappear-
ed. A bleachfield, however, above referred to, the buildings con-
nected with which are already finished, is about to be set agoing in
its immediate neighbourhood. The Lupulus, or hop-plant, is often
found wild near the village, and is supposed to have been former-
ly cultivated here. An old two-storey house presents a curious
sun-dial in the Egyptian style, executed upwards of 100 years ago
DALSERF. 749
by a person of the name of Burns. Larkhall, situated close to the
boundary with Hamilton parish, and near the road leading from
Glasgow to Carlisle, is the largest and most important village in
the parish. It is chiefly built upon the Raploch property, though
partly also upon the Duke of Hamilton's lands, and those belong-
ing to West Machan, on leases of ninety- nine years. It is mostly
inhabited by weavers, and the houses are nearly all of one descrip-
tion, namely, an apartment (seldom two) for family use, and a four
loom shop. Larkhall has been nearly all built since 1776. In
1791 it contained about 100 houses. At present it consists of not
fewer probably than 250, and is increasing with great rapidity.
This increase is in no small measure owing to the establishment of
building societies, and other causes which are elsewhere noticed. It
is impossible to speak of Larkhall separately from the hamlets,
rows of houses, and dwellings, in its immediate vicinity. The whole
neighbourhood in which it stands, is one large village, containing a
population of upwards of 2000 souls. Within the last two or three
years a post-office has been established in the village, subordinate
to Hamilton and Glasgow. This may be a benefit, perhaps, to per-
sons in the village and its immediate neighbourhood, but is felt to
be a positive nuisance to those living on the banks of the Clyde,
who, from greater facility of communication, would in general ra-
ther have Hamilton as their post town. The payment of a run-
ner, with a single letter perhaps, renders the recently established,
penny postage of no benefit.
Mjpns of Communication. — There are three great lines of road
which intersect the parish, namely, the road from Glasgow to Car-
lisle, the one from Glasgow to Lanark, by the banks of the Clyde,
and the more recently formed line from Edinburgh to Ayr, which
crosses the river at Garion Bridge. The Carlisle road, which is of
long standing, was much altered and improved about twenty years
ago, and afforded seasonable employment to the manufacturing po-
pulation in the troublesome years of 1819 and 1820. The Lanark
road was-formed about the end of last century. Though beauti-
ful and picturesque in its windings, it is not distinguished by those
principles of road-making which now prevail, and admits of many
improvements. The road from Edinburgh to Ayr only became a
thoroughfare about ten or twelve years ago, and its use and import-
ance are only yet beginning to be appreciated. These roads tra-
verse the parish to an extent of about eighteen miles, and are a
great benefit to the farmers of the parish and the neighbourhood
760 LANARKSHIRE.
in general. Without stating the extent of the parish roads, which
is rather indefinite, it may be mentioned that, for many years,
there was a heavy load of debt on the Statute Labour Fund, and
that, consequently, these roads were very ill kept. Of late, there
is a decided improvement in this respect. The merely farm and
service roads of the parish, from running through beds of clay, and
not being metalled, are, in general, in a very wretched state, and
in the winter months nearly impassable. Of late a good road has
been made, by subscription, through the farm of Bent, which af-
fords communication between the parishes of Lesmahagow and
Dalserf, in their interchange of coal and lime. The Duke of Ha-
milton has also, within these few months, made a good new road
through the farm of Overton, so as to connect his new colliery at
Netherburn with the Lanark road on the banks of the Clyde. It
is probable that both these new openings, from their obvious pub-
lic utility, will be adopted by the parish road trustees. These
trustees, from the provisions of the act on this subject, are very
few in number, and the interest of the public is often very imper-
fectly attended to. It is a pity but a thorough revision were
made of the Statute Labour Act. The London Mail passes
through the parish at stated hours on its way to and from Glas-
gow. There is also a daily stage-coach from Edinburgh to Ayr,
another between the towns of Strathaven and Stonehouse and
Glasgow, and a third between Glasgow and Lanark. The village
of Dalserf is about 18 miles south-east of Glasgow; 34 west of
Edinburgh ; 37 east of Ayr ; and is about half-way between Ha-
milton and Lanark, or 1\ miles from each.
There are two excellent bridges over the Clyde, connecting the
parish of Dalserf with the opposite bank, namely, Garion and Mil-
ton Bridges. Garion Bridge, near Dalserf, consists of three arches,
of 65 feet span each, the roadway being 20^ feet, and the height of
the parapet from the bed of the river 34 feet. A large stone, built
into the toll-house, contains the following inscription : — " In tes-
timony of respect and gratitude to General Sir James Stewart
Denholm of Coltness and Westshiel, Bart., in whose patriotic zeal
for the improvement of his country this bridge originated, and by
whose liberal contributions, united with those of Mrs Catherine Bir-
nie Mitchelson of Broomhill, and the Rev. John Scott, D. D. mi-
nister of Avondale, it was happily completed in the year 1817, at
a time when there was no safe passage across the Clyde from La-
nark to Bothwell ; the other contributors erected this stone.
4
DALSERF. 751
Erected by Kenneth Mathieson, Glasgow." This testimony is
the more worthy of being responded to, as the bridge, though a
great public benefit, has as yet been the reverse of any source of
profit to the subscribers or their heirs. The bridge at Milton is
the private property of William Lockhart, Esq. of Milton Lock-
hart. Tt is a graceful structure, consisting of three arches, ribbed
in the old style, like those in Bothwell Bridge and old Avon
Bridge, near Hamilton, both of which are of unknown antiquity.
There is a bridge of one arch, of 80 feet span, over the Avon at
Millheugh ; another over the Gander, near Stonehouse, with nu-
merous smaller bridges crossing the rivulets of the parish.
The land is nearly all enclosed. At one time, dry stone dikes
were in general use for this purpose. These have now, in a great
measure, disappeared, their place being supplied by hedges of thorn
and beech. The hedges on the Duke of Hamilton's lands, along
the sides of the principal roads and around his plantations, are ex-
cellently kept, and every encouragement is given by his Grace to
his tenants to attend to the subdivision fences on their farms.
There is still great room for improvement. The subdivision hedges
of the parish are too often neglected and insufficient. Indeed, un-
less landlords take the trimming and upholding of fences into their
own hands, the expense of planting them is, in too many instances,
just so much money sunk and lost. They are forthwith allowed
to be trampled down by cattle, and being left unshorn and un-
attended to, except at long intervals, become useless as enclo-
sures, causing a constant and annoying demand upon the landlord
for stob and rail. Wood grows readily, and hedges are reared
without difficulty in every part of the parish.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is beautifully situated,
but very inconveniently placed for the greater part of the popula-
tion. It stands on the banks of the Clyde, which is the eastern
boundary of the parish. Its distance from the farthest boundary
is about four miles. It was built, as already noticed, in 1655. It
appears from the Presbytery books, that both church and manse
were repaired in 1721, at an expense of L. 427, 18s. Scots. Some
alteration and repairs of the seating took place in 1818 and 1819,
so as to make the interior of the church more respectable in ap-
pearance and more comfortable, but without giving any additional
accommodation. Though old, the present condition of the build-
ing is such as, in the existing state of the law, to justify the heri-
752 LANARKSHIRE.
tors in refusing any alteration, and to exempt them from the obli-
gation of building a new church — a circumstance of which they
have not failed to avail themselves, when applied to on the subject.
In 1834, a meeting of heritors was convened at the instance of the
feuars and other inhabitants of Larkhall and neighbourhood, and
a memorial presented, praying for a new and sufficient church in a
centrical situation, so as to afford accommodation for the whole
parish. These persons at the same time offered a large sum by
way of subscription in aid of the heritors, upon being allowed a
right to a certain number of sittings. Only two or three heritors
attended, who were averse to the proposal ; no encouragement
was given by those who were absent, and the matter came to
nought. In consequence of this failure, a subscription was forth-
with entered into for building a chapel at Larkhall. It will shew
the necessity of something being done, to state, in contrast with
the preceding population returns, the simple fact, that the church
only contains about 550 sittings, and, before the erection of Lark-
hall into a separate parish, was not more than sufficient to contain
the actual communicants. For several years previous to 1835,
tent-preaching in the church-yard had to be resorted to for a good
many weeks in the summer. It may easily be supposed that this
want of accommodation drove a number of persons, not disposed
to have left the church on any other ground, to seek accommoda-
tion in Dissenting meeting-houses. Yet the seats, in so far as they
went, might be said to be all common. The church has never
been divided ; at least no legal division is known to exist, and the
people were accustomed to take seats wherever they could find them.
The writer of this article felt it his duty to discourage any new and
formal division of seat-room among the heritors, which would forth-
with have dissevered a large portion of his flock from the Esta-
blishment. There has always been a sort of use and wont occupa-
tion by the heritors and their principal tenants, whose seats and
pews were in general, though not always, safe from intrusion.
From the state of things now alluded to, the crowded state of
the church, and the want of division, much bad temper at times
prevailed amongst the parishioners, and some unseemly quarrels
took place even in the church. Since the division of the parish,
things, of course, are in a much better state in this respect.
The manse formerly stood in the village of Dalserf, close to the
church-yard wall. At what time the change of site took place
DALSERF. 753
cannot be accurately ascertained. The present manse, standing
on an eminence overlooking the church and village and the vale of
Clyde, is probably considerably upwards of 100 years old. Though
commanding one of the most splendid views in Scotland, the house
is a very insufficient and uncomfortable residence. It was proposed
about thirty years ago to build a new manse ; but, from a misun-
derstanding between the minister and heritors, the latter contented
themselves, as they were entitled by law, with making some re-
pairs on the old building1, and adding a back jamb, containing two
new apartments. It would have been much more economical for
the heritors and their successors to have built a new manse at once.
The offices were erected at the date above referred to, and are in
good repair.
The glebe consists pf about ten Scots acres, of which about four
acres are in orchard. It would probably bring a rent of about
L. 40 per annum. The returns for fruit in certain seasons would
appear to warrant a larger estimate. But it is well-known to those
who are conversant with this subject that a fruit rental is the very
reverse of being all profit. The glebe is all good ground, and,
when properly cultivated, never fails to make a suitable return-
In connexion with the glebe, it may be mentioned, that, about
thirty years ago, the present nominal incumbent of the parish, Mi-
Craig, applied for, and, after some litigation, obtained as grass-
glebe, a piece of ground at that time in the possession of the Earl
of Hyndford, proprietor of Dalbeg, and which was partly covered
with trees, old and young, some of them of considerable size and
value. Soon after getting possession, he proceeded to. sell the
timber, but was interdicted by the heritors, on the ground that the
trees belonged to the living, and not to the existing incumbent.
The case came before the Supreme Court, and the decision was
that trees are crop ; that a minister is entitled to cut them down
for his own behoof; that glebe ground is given for the purpose of
furnishing meal and milk for his family, and that he is at liberty
to crop the ground, in whatever mode he may think proper. This
decision fixed a general principle as to glebe ground.
The stipend in 1755 was L. 75, 6s. 8d. ; in 1795 it was, in-
cluding the allowance for communion elements, and the value of
the glebe (not of the manse), rated at L. 148, 15s. In 1807, an
augmentation was granted. The present stipend, modified 2d June
1824, commencing with the last half of crop 1822, and finally al-
754 LANARKSHIRE.
located 1829, is 17 chalders of victual, the one-half meal, and the
other barley, with L. 10 for communion elements. There is
still a moderate sum of free teind in the parish.
This parish, like many others, seems to have had no settled mi-
nister for some time after the Revolution in 1688. We find, from
the records of Presbytery, that competing calls were given about
this period to a Mr Robert Barclay, by the people of Dalserf and
Strathaven. Under date August 26th 1690, there is the following
entry in the minutes of Presbytery, " With reference to the parish
of Dalserf, the Presbytery find, that that parish in their present
circumstances, cannot give a legal call to a minister for want of an
eldership. To remove this difficulty, they appoint, at the desire
of that people, Mr G. Cleland (of Shotts) to preside at the no-
mination of an eldership, on Thursday 9th September 1690, and
to preach on the Lord's day thereafter, that an edict may be served
for the said persons, who shall be found qualified, and Mr William
Kerr to preach on Tuesday thereafter, and to receive them ac-
cording to form." This was accordingly done. On August 20th-
1690, the parish had given a call to Mr William Lamb. From
some cause not explained, (probably the irregularity of the call)
he was never ordained. He appears, however, to have served the
cure, from March 1688 to March 1690. The following is a list
of the ordained ministers of Dalserf from the Revolution down-
wards : — James Hog, ordained 20th January 1691, afterwards
settled at Carnock ; Alexander Adamson, ordained 19th May
1697 ; Francis Aird, ordained (date not known) ; William Steel,
(of Wygateshaw) ordained 20th August 1730 ; John Risk or-
dained 2d July 1761, died 7th May 1805; James Craig, ordained
26th September 1805; retired from the duties of his office in
1817, and has since lived in England; John Russell, LL.D.
ordained A. and S. 29th April 1817 ; and has since been the only
resident minister, and had the sole pastoral charge of the
parish.
The chapel at Larkhall, formerly referred to, is in the earliest
class of places of worship erected under the impulse of the Ge-
neral Assembly's Church Extension movement. There was
most urgent need of it. The people were far too poor to do much
for themselves, and were deeply indebted to distant and generous
friends. The chapel was opened for public worship 10th January
1836. Mr James Macletchie, who had some time previously been
appointed preacher and catechist for the district, officiated for
DALSERF. 755
some time witnout ordination, — the parish minister exchanging
pulpits with him, and dispensing ordinances and discipline as might
he required. In due time a constitution was obtained for Lark-
hall Chapel, and Mr Macletchie having been chosen by the peo-
ple as their minister, was ordained, 27th July 1837, as first minis-
ter of the quoad sacra parish of Larkhall. Having shortly after-
wards been removed to the newly erected quoad sacra parish of
Gartsherrie, he was in due time and form succeeded by Mr Ro-
bert Orange Broomfield, now minister of Larkhall, formerly of
the Scottish chapel at Stamfordham in Northumberland, and who
was settled in his present charge, 26th July 1838. The minister
of Larkhall is paid in the same way as other ministers of the same
description under the Assembly's Extension Scheme, namely, out
of the seat rents. He has a bond for L. 70. The church con-
tains 720 sittings, of which 450 are let. There are 30 free sit-
tings, and it is an article of the constitution, that one-half of the
sittings shall not exceed 3s. a sitting, and that a strict preference
shall be given to the parishioners. A considerable sum of debt
has hitherto hung over the chapel. Active measures, however, are
at presentin operation for getting it liquidated, and there is no reason
to doubt that it will speedily be cleared off. The collections, by
consent of the heritors, recorded in their minutes, go to the bene-
fit of the chapel funds. It is provided by the constitution, that as
soon as an endowment is obtained, one -fourth of said collections
shall be given to the poor. The parish laid off by the presbytery
for this new erection, comprises the lands of Broomhill, West
Machan, Meadowhill, and Muirshot, with all that portion of Dai-
serf which lies between this line and the river Avon — along with
considerable stripes of the parish of Hamilton to the north and
west. The whole population of the quoad sacra parish of Lark-
hall is upwards of 2200.
There is a Relief Meeting- House at Larkhall, built about the
same time with the new church there. It has no gallery as yet,
and contains about 400 sittings on the ground area. The state of
its affairs is not known to the writer of this article. The first or-
dained minister died some time ago, and has just been succeeded
by another. There is, besides, a small Independent congregation
at Larkhall, of a good many years standing. It consists at present
of eight or ten persons who meet on Sabbath along with their aged
and worthy minister for social worship. He has a sort of endow-
ment, consisting of a two storey house and garden, conferred upon
756* LANARKSHIRE.
him for life, by a zealous independent, a native of this parish, who
was settled in Paisley, and died some years ago.
The population of the parish is at present not less than 3000
souls. The number of Dissenters of all denominations does not pro-
bably exceed 550, leaving, as belonging to the church, 2450. The
larger portion of the Dissenters belong to the Relief congregation
at Larkhall. There are some, however, connected with the Unit-
ed Secession, the Reformed Synod, and the Independents, who
attend places of worship in the neighbouring parishes. Although
there may be now and then a few migratory Irish Catholics living
in the parish for a short time, for the sake of employment, there
is not and seldom has been any Catholic among the permanent
population. The Episcopalians occasionally residing within our
bounds have always been of the higher ranks, and have never fail-
ed to conform for the time to the Established Church. The Dis-
senters of the parish belong for the most part to the Larkhall dis-
trict. There are very few among the population, amounting to
about 1 000 souls, to whom the pastoral care . of the minister of
Dalserf is now restricted. In case the number of inhabitants as-
signed to Larkhall parish should appear disproportionate, it must
be mentioned, that two-thirds of the whole population of Dalserf
live within half a mile of the new church.
The gross number of communicants belonging to the church
and living in the parish was reported to the Commissioners of Re-
ligious Instruction as being about 800. The estimate was not
then too high, and cannot be diminished now. Of this number
about 500 or 520 (exclusive of non-parishioners and strangers)
were in the habit of communicating at Dalserf in summer, and
upwards of 400 in winter. They are now divided of course be-
tween the two places of worship. The communicants at Dalserf
now are upwards of 300, and in summer never short of 350. At
Larkhall, as per General Assembly's Church Extension Report,
the number is '290. This increase in the number of actual com-
municants points out the good that has been done by affording
church room, and a facility of attending upon ordinances. Public
worship is generally well attended. At Larkhall the average at-
tendance on Sabbath is 500. The church of Dalserf, which be-
fore the division of the parish was, in good weather, always ful),
has been very little affected by the formation of the new congre-
gation at Larkhall. The diminution of the average attendance
never exceeded fifty persons ; and any slight blank that may have
DALSERF. 757
been perceived at first, from the abstraction of so large a portion
of the population, is in rapid course of wholly disappearing. A
considerable number of persons belonging to the parishes of Les-
mahagow, Carluke, and Cambusnethan, were always inclined, for
convenience's sake, to make the church of Dalserf their place of
worship, though they were much discouraged by want of room.
Since Larkhall chapel was built, much more accommodation has
been afforded them, and they have not failed to avail themselves
of it. It is much to be desired, as matters now stand, that a
quoad sacra separation, at least of certain portions of the above-
named parishes, should be effected, annexing them to Dalserf.
They fall naturally, and by way of neighbourhood, under the
charge of the minister of that parish. The writer of this article
feels himself called upon to express in the strongest terms, for
himself and his parishioners, their deep sense of obligation to the
promoters of the General Assembly's Extension Scheme, for the
good which it has done in this parish and neighbourhood. There
are no societies in the parish for religious purposes ; but collec-
tions are regularly made in the parish church for the Assembly's
Schemes, and occasionally for other general and local objects.
The amount of money collected in this way is (exclusive of Lark-
hall) about L.10 or L.12 per annum.
Education. — There are two parochial and endowed schools in
the parish, viz. the principal one at Dalserf, and a district one in
Larkhall. Dalserf parish school, like the church, is inconvenient-
ly placed for the population. It is at present, however, the only
school in the old parish, and is well attended. A small private
school was kept up for some years in the village of Rosebank, but
not affording encouragement, nor even subsistence to the teacher,
it has of late been abandoned. The school at Larkhall was in
the first instance built by subscription, but in a short time was
adopted by the heritors, and has for many years been endowed, re-
gulated, and supplied by them in terms of the Act of Parliament.
The two parochial schoolmasters are required to be qualified to
teach English reading and grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-
keeping, practical mathematics, and Latin. Both of them attend-
ed College for two or three sessions. In the parish school there
are generally young persons learning Greek and French. The pa-
rish schoolmaster has the maximum salary of L. 34, 4s. 4c]d., with
a house and garden of the dimensions and extent required bylaw.
He is, besides, session-clerk and collector of poor's rate. His of-
LANARK. 3 C
758 LANARKSHIRE.
ficial emoluments may amount altogether to about L. 90 per an-
num. The teacher at Larkhall has a good house, school-room,
and garden, with an annual salary of L. 5. His income from
school-fees cannot be accurately stated. The school can accommo-
date about seventy scholars, and is generally well attended. His
emoluments altogether do not exceed L. 40 or L. 45 a year. The
fees in the parish school (and the rate does not differ materially in
the other schools of the parish) are, English reading and grammar,
per quarter, 2s. ; do. with writing, 3s. ; arithmetic and mathema-
tics, 4s. ; book-keeping per set, 10s. 6d. ; Latin, &c. per quar-
ter, 5s.
In the parish schools the Bible is the standard book, and the
Assembly's Catechism is regularly taught and explained. The
other school books are of proper kinds, and the mode of teaching,
without being exactly adapted to the present fashion, has been im-
proved in many instances, and is in course of improvement. The
number of private schools varies considerably in a very short pe-
riod. In reply to the Lord Advocate's queries in 1835, five were
reported, attended by about 230 children. At present, there are
only two worth mentioning, namely, one in Larkhall, and another
in Millheugh, both of them efficiently taught and well attended.
The branches taught in the private schools are in general only
English, writing, and arithmetic. No high standard of qualifica-
tions can be required where the emoluments are so small. The
interference of Government is essentially requisite, in order to pro-
cure a better class of teachers, and a more efficient and extended
system of education, for the largely increased population of this
manufacturing district. The provision made by law at present is
quite inadequate. It will be a pity if any new schools that may be
erected by the aid of Parliament, are not placed as heretofore,
under the superintendence and control of the Established Church,
which has, by long experience, so amply vindicated its claim to
praise in regard to promoting and watching over the interests of
education. From the preceding statement of fees it will be seen
that the expense of education is the reverse of being oppressive.
School wages, however, are in general ill paid. The people are
by no means indifferent to the benefit of having their children
taught to read and write ; but poor parents are often tempted to
take their boys and girls alike from school far too early, and to
employ them at the weaving-loom and tambouring-frame before
they have been even taught to read perfectly. Any deficiency of
DALSERF. 759
this kind is in general afterwards supplied by attendance on week
day evening and Sabbath schools. The parish schoolmaster is
bound to teach all children of paupers that are sent to him, gratis,
and the teacher at Larkhall takes three or four in the same way.
The kirk-session is always anxious that none should be left un-
taught from want of means, and pays for a good number of chil-
dren who, from the poverty of their parents, would otherwise be
neglected. There are three well-attended Sabbath schools in
connection severally with the parish church, the church at Lark-
hall, and the Relief meeting-house there. The number of young
persons, accordingly, between six and fifteen years who cannot
read, more or less, is very small. From fifteen years and upwards
there maybe said to be none, of sufficient capacity to receive edu-
cation, who have not been taught, or are in course of being taught,
to read the Bible. Writing is by no means so common a qualifi-
cation. The number of young persons at present receiving in-
struction at the different week-day schools in the parish is proba-
bly not much short of 300, or about a tenth of the whole popula-
tion. A subscription has lately commenced at Larkhall for the
purpose of erecting, with the aid of a government grant, an addi-
tional school there, in connection, if possible, with the new church.
An institution of this kind would be of great benefit, and it is
to be hoped nothing will occur to make the proposal miscarry.
Libraries. — There are two subscription libraries in the parish,
one at Larkhall, and another at Dalserf. The one at Larkhall
was instituted in 1809, and contains upwards of 500 volumes. The
entry money is 5s. and the annual payment 3s. The library is
open at all times, and the librarian receives L,l per annum. The
library at Dalserf was begun in 1822, with a stock of books,
amounting to about 120 volumes, which has not been increased.
From causes which it would be difficult to explain, this library has
for some years past nearly fallen into disuse. The books, how-
ever, are carefully preserved in a good press in the parish school-
room. There is no great taste for reading among the rural popu-
lation. Attempts have been made, not without success, to excite
and encourage such a desire among the young. A few years ago,
two sets of the Kildare Street Library were placed at the disposal
of the teachers in the parish, for circulation among their scholars,
and there are juvenile libraries attached to the Sabbath schools.
The parish has no Savings Bank. The nearest institution of
the kind, and that very recently set agoing, is at Hamilton.
760 LANARKSHIRE.
Friendly Societies.— There are several friendly societies for mu-
tual relief in cases of sickness. St Thomas's Mason Lodge at
Larkhall consists of about 300 members; and about 60 more
individuals are connected with a similar lodge at Stonehouse.
There is a Colliers' Society, containing 30 members; a Rose-
bank and Dalserf Friendly Society with 60, and a Millheugh and
Larkhall Friendly Society containing about the same number.
There is also a very useful Funeral Society, which affords assist-
ance to its members in case of a death occurring in any of their
families. They possess a pail or one-horse hearse, which they
also let out for hire. Under the head of societies may be men-
tioned house-building associations, of which there are several in
the parish. The " Larkhall and Pleasance Building Society"
was commenced at Martinmas 1814 ; the idea being suggested
by the great demand which existed at that time for houses and
weavers' shops, occasioned by the return of disbanded soldiers from
the army and militia. The Pleasance Park, forming part of the
lands of West Machan, and conststing of 4 acres, 2 roods, 12J falls,
was feued at L. 8 per acre, the whole amounting to L.36, 12s. 6d.
per annum. This piece of ground was laid off in three lengths,
affording space for three rows of houses, a double and a single row,
each house being 39 feet long, and 21 feet wide, with portions of
garden ground attached to each. Each of the houses cost from
L. 45 to L. 60. The operations of this society were finished some
years ago, and the association dissolved. Each member is now in-
feft in his house as his own private property. Another associa-
tion for a similar purpose, called the " Larkhall Building Society,"
was instituted at Martinmas 1824, and consists of 29 members.
These each pay Is. a week to the treasurer for six years, or till
the sum subscribed amounts to L. 16, 12s. Each member on
getting a house pays Is. 3d. per fall for his own ground over and
above the weekly payment of Is., and also L. 4, 10s. per annum
as rent. The ground feued by this society at L. 10 per acre ex-
tends to 2 1 acres, and 15 falls, belonging to the estate of Rap-
loch, and lying on both sides of the Glasgow and Carlisle road,
as it runs from Larkhall northwards. The ground allotted to each
feu is 38 feet front, and 7 falls backwards. The houses built by
this society are better than those erected by the former, and cost
each about L. 70. The society is to continue till all the mem-
bers are furnished with houses. Its operations are drawing to a
close, and it will in a short time be dissolved like the former asso-
DALSERF. 761
ciation. The houses belonging to this society have been mostly
built since 1831. Two associations of the same kind, of more re-
cent origin, are now in course of active operation ; one is -building
on the lands of Raploch, lying on the two sides of the Glasgow
and Carlisle road, as it runs from Larkhall to the southward, and
another on the lands of Avonglen, near Millheugh, belonging to
Mr William Gowans. The houses of the former cost L. 70, and
those of the latter L. 80. These societies do not proceed in the
mere ratio of funds actually collected by them, but borrow money
upon the value of their property and the security of the association5
and carry on their building operations with great rapidity. The
effect of the whole system now referred to has been, and is to
cause an increase of population far beyond the usual ratio. In a
very few years, unless some check occur, there will be a startling
accumulation of houses and inhabitants in this district, requiring
something more than increased church accommodation and pastoral
superintendence. Indeed, there is already much need of a jail or
house of correction, with an efficient magistracy and police to take
care that such a receptacle is not, when occasion requires, left un-
tenanted. The different societies now referred to, especially the
building ones, have beyond doubt had a favourable effect on the
character of the people, by promoting frugality and industry, and
cherishing a desire of independence. The friendly societies for
mutual relief are not calculated to be of any lasting benefit.
They begin to pay aliment before a sufficient amount of stock has
been collected ; and hence, unless there be a large and regular
accession of new members, which is seldom the case, they are in
general in a very exhausted state by the time that the original con-
tributors have died out.
Poor. — In 1791, there were twelve poor people who received
regular monthly aliment. The number on the roll at present is
50, among whom the sum of L. 15 per month is divided, at a
rate varying from 2s. 6d. to 16s. each. The larger sum is paid
for one or two bedfast paupers, requiring constant attendance.
Besides the roll of regular paupers, there are about 40 persons
who require occasional aid. The sum expended in this way by
the kirk-session varies in different years from L. 45 to L. 60 per
annum. For the last year it was L. 55. The parish has long
been assessed. In 1791, the assessment was L. 44, 4s. At pre-
sent it is about L. 210 per annum, levied, one-half on the heritors,
according to the old valuation of their lands, and the other half
762 LANARKSHIRE.
on the inhabitants, according to their supposed means and circum-
stances. The assessment on heritors is at the rate of 7|d. per
pound Scots. The proportion laid on inhabitants is never all rea-
lized. It would save much trouble in the collection, and have al-
together a good moral effect, if householders below a certain rank
and station were wholly exempted. An indiscriminate assessment
of the labouring poor just tends to augment the poors' roll, by creat-
ing a desire to get back as soon as possible what has been, with
difficulty, and grudgingly paid. The church collections (made
with the ladle) have amounted, for some years past, to from L. 30
to L. 36 per annum. For the last year they have amounted to
about L. 40, shewing that the interests of the poor have not suf-
fered from the abstraction of what was formerly contributed by
the people of Larkhall and neighbourhood, now annexed to the
new parish, which has the disposal of its own collections. From
the above sum must be deducted' extra collections for religious
purposes and session payments of various kinds, amounting in all
to about L. 16 per annum, leaving what remains for distribution
among the occasional poor. A very small sum is added to the
session funds from the hiring of mortcloths, now almost abolished
by the general use of pails. There is generally a collection at
marriages for the benefit of the poor ; but the sums raised in this
way are expended by the minister among needful persons on the
spot, and not reported -to the session. This parish has been fa-
voured beyond most others around, in regard to donations and le-
gacies to the poor. John Muir, Esq. some time merchant in Que-
bec, and who at the time of his death (1823) was tenant of Dai-
serf House, left by will L. 50, to be distributed by the kirk-session
among ten poor and industrious families, at the rate of L. 5 each,
which was done accordingly. A short time previous to the above
date, William Stewart, Esq. a native of the parish, and some time
merchant in Calcutta, bequeathed by will to the kirk-session, in
trust for the benefit of the poor, L. 500, (deducting legacy duty,
L. 450), directing the principal sum to be invested on heritable se-
curity, or in the public funds, and the interest to be distributed
on the first Monday of every year, among persons not entitled to
relief from the heritors. A few years ago, Robert Hastie, Esq.
cousin of the above gentleman, and likewise some time merchant in
Calcutta, bequeathed, in more general terms, L. 100, (free of le-
gacy duty), to the kirk-session of Dalserf, for the benefit of the
poor of the parish. The interest arising from these bequests is
DALSERF. 763
distributed in small sums among fifty or sixty individuals, not re-
ceiving regular parochial aliment. Several of the occasional poor,
however, are in the number. But, with whatever prudence this
charity may be managed, there can be little doubt that the above
legacies, however kindly meant, have contributed considerably to
accelerate applications for regular relief, and to swell the roll of
paupers. There is, whatever the causes may be, far less reluc-
tance than formerly to apply for parochial aid. With honourable
exceptions, of not unfrequent occurrence, there are far too many
who do not think it in the least degrading to seek, on not very
pressing emergencies, public aid for themselves and their relations.
The parish, about twenty years ago, by contributing L. 50 to the
Royal Infirmary at Glasgow, acquired the right of recommending
patients to that excellent institution. The session pays a sub-
scription of L. 1 annually to the Glasgow Eye -Infirmary, in order
to procure advice and medicines for poor persons, labouring under
diseases of the eyes. The poor's funds are to a large amount ex-
pended among the manufacturing poor. Three-fourths of the
whole sum collected go to Larkhall and neighbourhood. During
seasons of dull trade, extraordinary collections and subscriptions
have occasionally had to be resorted to. The coal-masters almost
every year give liberal donations of coals in winter. But for the
manufacturing villages, the parish could easily support its rural
poor out of the church collections.
Fair. — There is a sort of fair, accompanied by a horse-race, at
the village of Larkhall in the month of June ; the only purpose
served by which is to collect idle people, and to promote dissipa-
tion and riot.
Inns. — The parish contains 16 or 17 inns and alehouses, or, to
describe the larger portion of them more correctly, shops for the
retail of ardent spirits. Their effect on public morals is decided-
ly bad. It is a pity but that the number of such places were di-
minished, and those that are'allowed to remain placed under strict
regulations. Night and Sabbath drinking are far too common.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Great changes in all respects, mostly for the better, have taken
place in the parish since the publication of the former Statistical
Account. Whatever room there may be for further progress, it
cannot be denied, that, in regard to intelligence, the arts and com-
forts of social life, general habits and appearance, and character
764 LANARKSHIRE.
and conduct, moral and religious, the people have, for a good while
past, been steadily advancing, and have advanced, amidst all com-
plaints to the contrary, in a ratio fully equal to that of the increase
of population. The hand-loom weavers have, for some years back,
had to struggle with low wages and much discouragement. They
have in general, however, borne their lot with great fortitude and
patience, and with far less deterioration of character than might
have been expected. It is to be hoped, that better times will come
to reward their good conduct and perseverance.
In regard to rural matters, no person, who is able to look back
twenty years, can travel through the parish without being struck
with the improvement that has taken place during that time, in
regard to roads, fences, houses, and a better and more spirited
style of farming. There is still, in many things, great need of a
further advance, as will be seen from some of the preceding state-
ments. The upper part of the parish would be greatly improved
by belts of planting for shelter, of which it is at present nearly des-
titute. A large portion of the same district stands much in need
of draining, and especially of furrow-draining. This improvement
has commenced in several places, and, it is to be hoped, will be
persevered in, till the whole ground in the parish is made dry and
rendered fit for a more regular rotation of crops. In regard to
any ground, deserving of the name of soil, no expenditure gives a
speedier or surer return than the money spent on drains. Lime
applied to wet and damp ground is, in a great measure, thrown
away. Landlords ought to build better farm-steadings on the lar-
ger farms of the parish, as they are required. At present, about
two-thirds of the farmers of the parish perform manual labour,
along with their servants* Although large farms are scarcely
adapted to this part of the country, there might, by judicious ar-
rangements, be an improvement in this respect.
The Clyde., in several places, requires embanking. Besides
smaller evils occurring from year to year, the river about once in
every six or seven years, overflows its banks to a considerable ex-
tent, destroying the ripe grain in autumn, and in winter and spring,
carrying off the young wheats, manure, soil, and all ; and some-
times depositing beds of sand or gravel on considerable portions of
good haugh land. Something has been done on the farm of Over-
ton and elsewhere to prevent this evil ; but the improvement would
require, for the farmer's security, to be carried to a much larger
BOTHWELL. 765
extent. In regard to all the improvements indicated in these re-
marks, it may with safety be anticipated, that, if matters go on as
they are doing at present, the next Statistical Account of this pa-
rish, given at a similar interval, will present contrasts still more
striking and satisfactory than those between this and the last.
April 1840.
PARISH OF BOTHWELL.
PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. MATTHEW GARDINER, D. D. MINISTER.*
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — IN the" Rotuli Scotiae," (temp. Edward. I.) preserved
in the Tower of London, and now published by order of Govern-
ment, this parish is mentioned under the form of Botheville. It is
variously written in subsequent reigns, as Bothvel, Boethwell,
Bothell, and Bothwell; and in a charter granted to Dame Marga-
ret Leslie, Countess of Angus, in 1581, it assumes, apparently
for the first time, the present form of Bothwell. According to
Bullet, (Memoires sur la Langue Celtique), the name is derived
from Both, an eminence, and wall, a castle, and was given to the
Castle of Bothwell, as standing considerably elevated above the
Clyde. A more probable conjecture is, that it is a compound of
the two Celtic words both, in its signification of a dwelling, and
ael or %/, a river, a habitation on a river, which is strictly descrip-
tive of the castle in this parish, as it is also of the Castle of Bothell
or Bothall, in Northumberland, the one situated on the Clyde,
the other on the Wentsbeck.
Situation and Boundaries. — The parish of Bothwell is situated
in the middle ward of the county of Lanark, on the north-east
bank of the Clyde. In form, it somewhat resembles the figure 8,
or a sand-glass, being narrow at the centre, and widening spheri-
cally towards both ends. Its extreme length from Tillers Burn,
on the east, to Calder Bridge, on the Glasgow and Carlisle road,
on the west, is about 8 miles and 5 furlongs ; the breadth in the
* Drawn up by the Rev. William Patrick, Hamilton.
766 LANARKSHIRE.
centre from Bankhead mill, on the south, ta the bridge over the
North Calder, on the Hamilton and Airdrie road, is 1 mile 6^
furlongs ; towards the extremities, it widens to nearly 4 miles. It
is bounded on the east, by the parish of Bertram Shotts ; on the
south, by the South Calder and the river Clyde, which divide it
from the parishes of Dalziel, Hamilton, and Blantyre ; and on the
west and north, by the North Calder, which separates it from the
parishes of Old and New Monkland. It contains about 2,125
square miles, equal to 10,814 Scots acres, or nearly 13,600 im-
perial acres.
Topographical Appearances. — This parish forms part of the lofty
undulating and^sloping bank on the north-east side of the Clyde,
which extends from Lanark to within a few miles of Glasgow. On
reaching the parish of Bothwell, it recedes considerably from the
course of the river, leaving a large intermediate plain or haugh of
great beauty and fertility. It again revisits the river at Bothwell
Bridge, and before it retires a second time, forms a piece of table-
land upwards of a mile in extent, from the bridge westward. At
the head of this table-land, the church and village of Bothwell are
situated, and command a beautiful and extensive view of the vale
of Clyde to the east. The view westward from the village of Ud-
dingston at the other extremity is almost equally beautiful and
picturesque.
There is a gradual but pretty rapid descent from the eastern
extremity of the parish for nearly four miles. A flat of about
equal length succeeds, declining on the south, towards the Calder
and the Clyde. The western extremity merges in the extensive
plain on which Glasgow is situated.
The following is a list of the relative elevations above the level
of the sea, of a few of the different localities of the parish. Both-
well church, situated near the south-west boundary of the parish,
and eight miles distant from Glasgow, 120 feet ; Bothwell Bridge,
eight miles and a half from Glasgow, 80 feet; Bellshill, about a
mile and a half north from the bridge, 372 feet ; Holytown rail-
way, nine miles south-east from Glasgow, 335 feet ; eastern boun-
dary of the parish, fifteen miles south-east from Glasgow, 680 feet.
A few beltings of trees would add greatly to the beauty and fer-
tility of some of the higher grounds in the upper district of the
parish. The farms below are better sheltered. The family-seats
on the banks of the Clyde and the two Calders are richly wood-
ed, and there is much fine wood in other parts of the parish.
BOTHWELL;
767
Meteorology. — The variety of elevation in the several districts
of the parish occasions, of course, a corresponding diversity in
the temperature of the atmosphere. In the lower division, com-
prehending the villages of Bothwell and Uddirigston, and the
whole bank of the Clyde, the climate is mild and genial ; the
warmth is comparatively diminished at Bellshill and Holytown,
which are situated in what may be called the middle district of the
parish, and the change is still more sensibly felt in ascending to-
wards the higher grounds in the eastern district.
The following tables of observations, made by the writer of this
article at Jerviston in the winter of 1830 and spring of 1831, will
give a pretty correct view of these seasons in this parish, and of
the average climate of this part of Scotland. Jerviston stands at
an elevation of about 330 feet above the level of the sea. Two
observations of the barometer, and four of the thermometer were
taken daily.
November 1830.
December 1830.
Thermometer.
Morn. Even.
Weather.
Thermometer.
Morn. Even.
Weather.
1
37°
40°
Wet all day.
1
39°
41°
Dull, wet.
2
35
46
Pleasant.
2
43
45
Dull.
3
36
40
Very wet.
3
42
42
Do.
4
32
38
Clear; hail.
4
41
44
Do.
5
35
36
Loud thunder.
5
39
36
Do.
6
37
44
Pleasant.
6
34
35
Do.
• 7
36
45
Do.
7
33
42
Cold, pleasant.
8
39
42
Do.
8
37
36
Clear evening, wet.
9
40
44
Very wet.
9
41
44
Do. pleasant.
10
36
40
Do.
10
32
37
Frosty.
11
36
42
Do.
11
32
34
Frost evening rain.
12
37
44
Do.
12
33
34
Cold north winds.
13
40
40
P leasant.
13
32
34
Hoar frost.
14
46
49
Very wet.
14
34
36
Clear, no frost.
15
40
48
Pleasant.
15
40
41
Hain, stormy.
16
46
48
Rainy.
16
36
36
Very wet.
17
47
49
Pleasant.
17
35
39
Clear.
18
46
49
Do.
18
37
40
Stormy.
19
47
50
Do.
19
36
38
Do.
20
48
52
High wind.
20
35
37
Wettish.
21
38
44
Wet.
21
39
35
Wet.
22
23
37
39
42
43
Pleasant.
Do.
22
23
35
36
34
36
Drifting hail.
Cold north wind.
24
36
44
Do.
24
32
34
Frost.
25
46
53
Do.
25
32
34
Do.
26
39
47
Do.
26
32
34
Do.
27
37
42
Dull.
27
32
34
Do.
28
40
42
Do.
28
32
34
Do.
29
39
41
Do.
29
32
33
Do.
30
46
52
Do. wet.
30
32
35
Do. wind S. W.
31
32
86
Do.
768
LANARKSHIRE.
January 1831.
February 1831.
Thermometer.
Morn. Even.
Weather.
Thermometer.
Morn. Even.
Weather.
I
34°
36°
Thaw.
1
33°
32'
Snow, windy.
2
33
37
Drizzling rain.
2
32
33
Do. cold wind.
3
40
40
Wettish.
3
33
32
Snow.
4
40
41
Do.
4
34
32
Do.
5
39
42
Clear.
5
33
31
Roads blocked up.
6
32
33
Frost.
6
35
40
Clear and pleasant.
7
32
33
Do.
7
44
47
Rain.
8
35
39
Clear, mild.
8
52
51
Heavy rain.
9
39
40
Dull, wettish.
9
54
52
Do.
10
40
41
Clear.
10
48
46
Snow gone.
11
40
42
Do.
11
45
42
Pleasant.
12
32
36
Frost.
12
48
47
Clear, bright.
13
35
37
Clouds low.
13
50
49
Do.
14
35
36
Dense fog.
14
42
47
Clear, east wind.
15
35
38
Do. very dark.
15
45
41
Do. do.
16
35
37
Do. do.
16
39
42
Droughty.
17
35
37
Do. do.
17
43
44
Gusty, with showers.
18
35
37
Do. do.
18
40
35
Do. do.
19
35
37
Do. do.
19
38
43
Fine, rain at 5 p. M.
20
36
39
Do. do.
20
32
36
Frosty.
21
37
40
Do. but lighter.
21
36
43
Slight fall of snow.
22
34
36
Mist gone.
22
41
44
Sunny.
23
35
36
Cold. wet.
23
36
40
Dull, coldish.
24
37
39
Pleasant.
24
38
46
Clear, Do.
25
37
40
Heavy snow morn.
25
37
34
Snow.
26
37
41
Pleasant, clear.
26
38
38
Pleasant.
27
32
36
Frost, with snow.
27
38
35
Clear, hail.
28
16
30
Hard frost.
28
40
34
Ploughing.
29
22
32
Do.
30
32
33
Misty.
31
30
30
Snow at 10 P. M.
March
1831.
April
1831.
1
40°
48°
Cold, chilly.
1
45°
40°
Very pleasant.
2
45
48
Do. rain.
2
46
42
Very droughty.
3
49
46
Showery.
3
44
37
Do.
4
47
43
Pleasant.
4
46
44
Pleasant.
5
50
49
Dull.
5
50
46
Do.
6
50
47
Frogs croaking.
6
48
44
Do.
7
48
41
Pleasant.
7
53
44
Do.
8
42
44
Very pleasant.
8
49
45
Wet all day.
9
46
40
Do.
9
52
49
Clear.
10
47
48
Do.
10
50
47
Mild, showery.
11
50
42
Do.
11
55
46
Very fine.
12
45
44
High wind.
12
54
44
Do.
13
45
44
Do.
13
-48
45
Showery.
14
41
42
Wet, stormy.
14
52
48
Fine.
15
43
47
Do.
15
61
47
Very fine.
16
53
51
Unsettled.
16
56
46
Do.
17
52
44
Dark, stormy.
17
57
56
Pleasant.
18
49
45
Do.
18
57
50
Fine.
19
46
49
Not so bad.
19
57
40
Very fine.
20
54
48
Very pleasant.
20
48
41
Do.
21
54
46
Do.
21
51
46
Lowering, wet.
22
45
44
Do.
22
52
49
Fine.
23
46
42
Do.
23
54
42
Dull.
24
41
48
Do.
24
51
49
Pleasant.
25
43
39
Do.
25
56
48
Do.
26
41
45
Sowing.
26
51
49
Wet.
27
53
44
Very pleasant.
27
50
50
Showery.
28
47
42
Do.
28
50
47
Unsettled.
29
45
43
Do.
29
54
46
Do. E. wind.
30
50
45
Do.
30
52
49
Do. Do.
31
43
38
Do.
BOTHWELL. 769
The three summer months of 1831 \tfere clear and fine, with
very little rain. In May the average height of the barometer was
29.87 ; in June 29.89, and in July 29.808. The extreme range of
the thermometer in May, was from 45 to 63 ; its average height
in the morning was 57 ; in the evening 48.9. In June it averag-
ed in the morning 66, and in the evening 58 ; and in July, in the
morning 65 ; in the evening 59. The warmest day in June was
the 4th ; the thermometer standing at 78. On the 7th of July it
reached the same degree.
A rain-gage of a superior construction has been kept at Both-
well Castle for some years. It is placed at an elevation of about
80 feet above the level of the sea. For the last two years the in-
strument has been in an imperfect state of repair. The follow-
ing are the notations in 1834, when it was in good condition, and
regularly observed.
January, - 4.800 inches. July, - 1.325 inches.
February, - 2.220 August, - 2.313
March, - 2.586 September, 3687
April, - 0.314 October, - 1.700
May, - 1.000 November, 2.796
June, - 2.375 December, 1.104
Dr MacCulloch observes, " the air is good and the climate health-
ful. A ridge of high hills about ten miles north carries off the
clouds and vapour that may be raised from the Atlantic, or other-
wise. A long stretch of high ground does the same service on the
south, and the parish, on account of its separate state, happily re-
mains unaffected, while the storm is driving along both."
The most frequent winds in all this district are the west and
south-west. These prevail generally for about two-thirds of the
year ; and chiefly during the latter part of the summer months,
and the autumn and winter seasons. A cold dry wind from the
east and north-east is not unusual in the beginning of March,
and at that period is of great benefit in preparing the ground for
the seed, and forwarding the operations of the husbandman. The
same wind prevails not unfrequently in May, and during the ear-
lier part of June ; and then its visits are far from being equally
welcome. When of long continuance it checks the crops in their
growth, withers the blossom of the orchards, and blasts the pros-
pects of the cultivator and the fruit-merchant.
The weather is generally fine when the wind is south-east, but
if it does rain, the storms are heavy and of long continuance. On
770 LANARKSHIRE.
an average of years, the wind is seldom above ten or twelve days
due south or north. The greatest quantity of rain falls during the
prevalence of the west wind.
The following table, kept at Jerviston in 1828, 1829, and 1830,
shews the periods during which the different winds prevailed in
these years.
Days
Days
Days
Days
Days
Days
Days
Days
Inches of
N.
N. E.
N. W.
S.
S. E.
S. W.
E.
W.
rain.
1828,
10
20
~30~
6
~30"
150
~~27
92
24.076
1829,
8
40
72
30
25
120
10
60
23.01
1830,
10
20
30
10
20
160
5
110
25.04
28 80 132 46 75 430 42 262 72.126
As the mornings and evenings in spring and autumn have of
late years not unfrequently been cold and frosty, and the winters
on the other hand open, the following observations with respect
to the degrees of cold at which different crops are injured, made
many years ago by the late Mr Henderson, gardener at Woodhall,
a man no less distinguished for his personal worth than his pro-
fessional eminence, may not prove devoid of interest
Potatoes, from 2 to 4 degrees (Fahr.) below the freezing point.
Clover, 3 Do.
Green pease, 4 Do.
Barley, . 4 Do.
Beans if wet, 4 Do.
Oats, . 7 10
Rye grass, 9 Do.
Turnips, . 24 30 Do.
Frosts in this district seldom penetrate a foot into the earth.
From thermometers kept under ground during two years, it was
ascertained that the lowest temperature at one foot from the surface
was 33°, at two feet 35°, and at three feet 39°, and the highest at
these respective depths 35°, 52°, 5 and 52°.
Climate. — Throughout the whole parish the climate is good,
but it is considered peculiarly salubrious in the neighbourhood of
the village of Bothwell. The medical practitioners in Glasgow
not unfrequently advise their patients when in delicate health to
seek for convalescence from a residence there during the summer
months. Summer quarters in the village and neighbourhood are
consequently in great request, and the hopes of the visitants are
seldom altogether disappointed. Instances of unusual longevity
are numerous throughout the parish.
Disease in an epidemic form is seldom experienced, and it may
BOTHWELL. 771
not be improper to mention, that, when the adjoining parishes on
every side were lately visited with cholera, some of them severely,
the parish of Both well was exempted from its ravages — only one
instance occurred among its numerous inhabitants, and that in the
case of a gentleman who attended the funeral of a relative that had
died of the disease in Glasgow.
Hydrography. — The principal river in this part of Scotland is
the Clyde. It takes its rise near Queensberry hill, at the south-
ern extremity of Lanarkshire, and after a winding course of about
seventy-four miles, and being enlarged by many tributaries, it reaches
the parish of Bothwell at Bothwell Haugh, opposite the race-course
of Hamilton. Running in a north-west direction, it forms the south-
ern boundary of the parish for upwards of four miles and a-half, and
is here a broad majestic river. From the nature of its channel its
waters are rather of a darkish hue. Above Bothwell bridge it runs
through fertile haughs, which it sometimes overflows in winter.
Below the bridge the banks suddenly contract, attain in some places
a considerable elevation, and have long been celebrated for. their
picturesque scenery. There is a song of very ancient date com-
memorative of the beauty of these banks, beginning " Bothwell
Bank thou bloomest fair," regarding which a not uninteresting
story is quoted by Dr MacCulloch from Vestigan's Restitution of
decayed Intelligence in the last Statistical Account.
The Clyde at Bothwell Bridge is upwards of 71 yards broad;
at Blantyre works, a little below the bridge, 120 yards, and at Both-
well Castle upwards of 80. On the 25th of July 1835, when the
thermometer stood at 76° in the shade, the temperature was 68°.
The mean temperature of the springs is about 50°.
The north and south Calders have already been mentioned as
forming boundaries of the parish. They are both tributaries to the
Clyde, which they join after a separate course of about fifteen miles ;
the former takes its rise from the Black Loch in the parish of New
Monkland ; the latter from some marshes in the parishes of Shotts
and Cambusnethan. As the name indicates, they are waters with
wooded banks, and throughout the greater part of their course are
extremely beautiful and romantic. The bold rocks on either side
of these streams are of sandstone, and are richly adorned by over-
hanging woods, and a profusion of native plants.
The beautiful and graceful kingfisher, and the common sand-
piper or killileepie, are often to be seen, frequenting the rocky beds
772 LANARKSHIRE.
of these streams. Their waters are also much resorted to by dippers
(Cinclus aquaticusj, and a variety of other birds. The holes be-
neath the rocks afford excellent shelter for foxes, otters, polecats,
and badgers.
The Tiller-burn rises near the manse at Shotts, and after pursu-
ing a westerly course, falls into the Calder near Cleland House.
There is abundance of excellent water in all quarters of the pa-
rish, obtained chiefly from open wells. Iron or chalybeate waters
abound ; they are often found associated with sulphuretted springs,
and have probably one common origin.
Immediately opposite the Monkland Steel Works, on the Both-
well side of the North Calder, a spring strongly impregnated with
alumina, and depositing a quantity of iron-ore in its course, issues
from a valuable bed of aluminous schist, now wrought to great ad-
vantage. The aluminous principle is so strong as to set the teeth
on edge when the water is tasted. The water was analysed by Dr
Hugh Colquhoun of Glasgow, and the principal ingredients were
found to be sulphate of iron and sulphate of alumina, with a consi-
derable quantity of sulphate of lime, and a very little sulphate of
magnesia. As a medicinal mineral water, Dr Colquhoun supposes
it would not be of any value ; diluted with common water, it might,
perhaps, be used as a tonic in some cases under the daily superin-
tendence of a medical adviser, and might also be used with ad-
vantage to bathe certain external sores. Dr Colquhoun adds, I
have no doubt that the mineral spring flows through a stratum of
aluminous schist, from which schist alum might be manufactered ;
but whether the manufacture would be profitable, is another ques-
tion.
The well has been injured by the mining operations.
Geology and Mineralogy. — A stratum of the new or upper red
sandstone stretches along the whole of the western parts of Both-
well, and penetrates into several of the neighbouring parishes,
forming the great key to the geology of this part of Scotland.
This new or upper deposit, which, so far as the writer hereof
knows, has not been noticed as yet, or described by any author in
connection with the mineralogy of the district,* covers a great part
of the south-west edge of the great coal basin of the Clyde. In
its southern extremity, it reaches near to the village of Quarter,
in the parish of Hamilton ; extends northwards by Chatelherault,
* This Account was drawn up in 1836.
3
BOT-HWEI,!,. 773
crosses the Clyde somewhere between Hamilton Bridge and Both-
well Bridge, and runs in an undulating line towards Bellshill and
Langloan, which last is its northern extremity; proceeding then in
a western direction, it passes from Langloan through Baillieston,
towards Tollcross, near Glasgow, recrosses the Clyde above the
iron-works at Bogleshole, extends south-west near to Dechmont
hill in Cambuslang, takes then an easterly direction, and passing
through the east and north-east parts of Cambuslang and Blan-
tyre, re-enters Hamilton by Carnock House, and runs on by
Meikle Earnoch and Simpson land to Quarter. This rock is of
a bright-red colour,"sometimes soft and friable, but in general
compact and well suited for building ; in some places it is marked
with dark spots, as if iron water or some carbonaceous matter of a
blackish colour had percolated through it. The soil immediately
above it is generally a red clay, often very tenacious, and mixed in
many places with a white argillaceous matter, exactly resembling
pipe-clay. This is succeeded by a thin crust of sandstone, of a
pure white colour, or by thin slabs resplendent with mica. It is
interspersed in some places with layers which are so tough that
they can scarcely be either cut or broken, and fragments of older
and harder rocks are everywhere imbedded in it. This descrip-
tion is drawn chiefly from some quarries which have been lately
opened up. About four or five feet above the upper sur-
face of the rock, there is found in some instances a thin stratum
of what appears to be iron-sand, (sable ferruyineux,) much re-
sembling some of the Wealden formations found in England, Po-
land, and Germany. In its general appearance it bears a striking
resemblance to the brown sandy slag which comes from an iron-
work, but when bruised with a stone or hammer it is reduced to a
rusty brown sand, full of small, and often minute pisiform or reni-
form nodules of ironstone. The bed upon which this stratum rests
is a yellow ochreous clay. A large section of this description was
lately laid open in a field at Blantyre works, nearly opposite Both-
well Castle ; no animal or vegetable remains were found ; the bed
is about six inches thick, and extends a long way into the country,
often impeding the labourer when casting drains, &c.
The red sandstone is much fractured, and in the beds of rivers
and ravines, it may be seen towering up to a great height, hav-
ing no inapt resemblance to a piece of Cyclopean architecture.
The seams of these fractures are lined with soft red clay, and no
LANARK. 3 D
774 LANARKSHIRE.
blaes or shale is ever found above it. In some places, it rests on
a white sandstone rock, and in other places on shale, either blue
or of a bright-red colour. This rock is superincumbent on all the
coal formations in this part of the country, the upper surface of
the former lying at an average from fifteen to thirty fathoms
above the upper surface of the coal measures : it covers an extent
of country about nine miles in length, and from four to eight in
breadth. There is a great deposit of sand near its south-east ex-
tremity, at Chatelherault, and another at its north-west extremity,
near Tollcross.
Coal abounds everywhere in this parish, but in the lower
division, where the red sandstone occurs, it lies at too great a
depth to be wrought with advantage at present ; the attempt con-
sequently has not been made. Four good workable seams at
least extend throughout the greater part of the parish, contain-
ing in all about twenty feet of coal. These may be described
under their. local names. The first of these found on boring is
thirty-seven inches thick, and hence is termed the ell coal. It
generally rests upon a bed of fire-clay two feet thick, abounding
with petrified mussel shells (Mytilm c?-assus, Flem. Edin. Ph. Journ.
No. xxiv. 246, tab. ix. f. 3). From "seven to ten fathoms below
this first seam, the Pyotshaw coal is found, in thickness from three
to four feet ; descending seven fathoms farther, the main coal five
feet thick is reached. Sometimes these two seams are found
united, and then they constitute what is called the nine feet coal.
At a depth of from fifteen to eighteen fathoms below the main
coal, the splint coal is come to, which, as the name implies, is of
a hard, splintery quality, and is the best in the country for smelting
iron ; it is found on analysis to be composed of 75.00 carbon ;
6.25 hydrogen; 12.50 oxygen; and 6.25 nitrogen. This last
seam varies from three feet nine inches to four feet six inches in
thickness ; it and the main coal abound with iron pyrites. The
roof of the splint coal is rich both in animal and vegetable re-
mains.
Carfin, in this parish, is not far from the centre of the great
coal basin of Lanarkshire. This rich mineral field may not in-
aptly be described as forming a triangle of the isosceles kind, about
twenty-one or twenty-two miles in length, of which Glasgow is the
vertex, and a line drawn from the Clyde south-east to Polkemmet,
the base. It has been estimated to contain about 55,000 acres,
BOTHWELL. 775
or about 110 square miles, probably averaging 20,000 tons per
acre, but, taking the medium thickness of the whole field at
five yards, it will give to each mile 15,448,000 cubic yards,
which, multiplied by 110, the number of square miles, gives
1,703,680,000 cubic yards of coal. Rosehall, Carnbroe, Wood-
hall, Stevenson, Carfin, and Cleland, all properties in the parish of
Bothwell, and on all of which collieries are now at work, would
supply an annual output of 400,000 tons for upwards of 3000
years.
The thickness of the various seams in the three following dis-
tricts of this great basin is as follows : —
Carfin coal field. Coltness coal-field.
Ell coal from 4 ft. 11 in. to 7 ft. 2 in. Upper coal, 10 feet.
Pyotshaw coal 3 10 - 3 10 Main-coal, 6
Main coal, 3 8-38 Lady Anne coal, - 6
Splint coal, 3 9-46 Berryholm coal, - 3
16 2 19 2 25
Wishaw coal-field.
Upper coal, 9 feet.
Main coal, 7
Lady Anne coal - 3 9 inches.
. - 19 9
At Cleland coal is found 9 feet thick ; at Chapel, 7 feet 8 inches ;
at Pickerstonhill, 9 feet ; at Garion Gill, 8 feet 9 inches ; at New-
mains and Catburn, 9 feet, and at Allanton 11 feet.
The field is intersected by two dikes, which produce considerable
derangement in the metals. One of these crosses Bothwell pa-
rish at Newarthill, runs to the west by Legbrannoch, passes through
the Garion Railway tunnel, and enters the neighbouring parish of
Old Monkland to the north-west, a little to the eastward of Carn-
broe House. The field, or section thrown in by this dike, is ter-
minated by another which enters the parish at Lauchop Mill,
passes due west through Chapelhall and Monkland Steel Works,
crosses the Calder north of Woodhall House, and probably joins
the other dike near the above-mentioned tunnel.
Besides the four workable strata above described, about twenty-
six other seams have been observed, varying from a few inches to
one or two feet in thickness.
Ironstone is also found in considerable quantities in the parish,
and is at present wrought on Woodhall estate, near Holytown, at
Calderbraes, and on the Farm of Greenside, near Newhouse. It
is chiefly what is termed the black-band ; lies from 1 5 to 25 fa-
776 L,AN7AUKSHIRE.
thorns below the splint coal, and varies from 10 to 16 inches in
thickness. The ore varies exceedingly both in quality and colour.
The following is an analysis of a pretty good specimen of this mi-
neral as found in the district : —
Protoxide of iron,
Carbonic acid, and other volatile matter,
Silica,
Lime,
Alumina,
Magnesia, and coaly matter,
33.
11.2
7.4
6.8
8.6
100.
No lime is wrought in the parish ; it lies far below all the coal
seams and beds of shale and freestone, and only crops out along
the edge of the great coal basin after these minerals are no longer
to be found.
To the east and north-east of the red sandstone, the strata lying
between it and the black-band ironstone, may be seen cropping out
in succession upon the estates of Jerviston, Carfin, Stevenson,
Carnbroe, and Woodhall. On the banks of the North Calder,
between Woodhall and Monkland Steel works, the splint coal and
black-band crop out, affording a fine section of the rocks with which
they are connected.
The foundation, or under stratum, of all the coal measures in
this district is the moorstone rock, which is equivalent to the mill-
stone grit of the English fields.
Mr John Craig of Glasgow has made a pretty extensive and
-very interesting collection of organic remains found in this parish,
both vegetable and animal. The vegetables are mostly Pinites,
and are usually found in strata of slate clay; beautiful speci-
mens of Equisetum and various Calamites are also frequently
found ; these occur in the shales, in several of the coals, and
also in the solid sandstone, and it is observable that they are
always converted into the substance in which they are imbed-
ded.
Zoology. — The animals of this district are noticed at length in
the account of the parish of Hamilton, and it is unnecessary again
to particularize them. The relative numbers of the different
species may be stated as follows : — Mammalia, 29 species ; birds,
105; reptiles, 8; fishes, 13; mollusca, 14, and insects noticed,
500.
Salmon at one time abounded in this part of the Clyde, but
BOTHWELL.
777
their numbers for many years past have been greatly diminished.
Various causes have been assigned for this, such as the exten-
sion of the fisheries below Glasgow — the constant plying of steam-
boats on the river — the impurities and noxious substances that are
carried into its waters from the dye-works on its banks, and the
factories in the neighbourhood, and, above all, the impediment wjjich
is presented to their progress up the river by the dam thrown over
it between Blantyre Mill and Bothwell. The fish are seen in great
numbers during the spawning season (from September to Decem-
ber) struggling to get over this obstruction. As many as 150 leaps
have been counted within fifteen minutes ; the attempt is rarely
successful.
Botany. — The parish produces a great variety of interesting
plants. The following are a few of the less common :
Allium vineale
Pulmonaria officinalis
Polemonium casruleum
Linaria Cymbalaria
Senecio saracenicus
Gagea lutea
Rumex Hydrftlapathum
Tulipa sylvestris
Daphne Laureola
Hesperis inodorata
Scrophularia aquatica
Tormentilla reptaus
Lysimachia nummularia
Senecio tenuifolius
Cichorium intybus
Nuphar pumila
Arum macula turn.
The Scirpus sylvaHcm^ beautifully striped like gardeners' gar-
ter (Phalaris arundinacea) , is found at Woodhall.
Of Miscellanea — Filices, Musci, Hepaticce, Algce, and Fungi, the
following may be given as a specimen :
Equisetum sylvaticum
Ophioglossum vulgatum
Asplenium scolopendrium
..« trichomanes
Phascum acaulon
Polytrichum subrotun-
dum
Mniura pellucidum
Bryum striatum
Bryum roseum
Hypnum lucens
. rufescens
plumosum
Jungermannia viticulosa
Marchantia androgyna
Lichen byssinus
Conferva glutinosa
dissiliens
Merulius cantharellus
Agaricus velatus
Bryum truncatulum
marginatum
Hypnum denticulatum
sylvaticum
Agaricus nitidus
— — clypeolarius
— lachryma-
bundus
Boletus aurantiacus.
The following will afford some idea of the distribution of plants
in this parish :
Acotyledons,
Fungi
Lichenes
Algae •
Characea?
(iramineae -
Cyperaceae •
Junceae
Melanthnceas
Aspnragea? •
86
50
18
2
37
21
10
0
o
Hepaticae -
M usci
Filices
Lycopodiacew
16
59
14
Marsiliaceaj - 0
Equisetaceas - 4
Monocotyledons.
Asphodeleae - 5
Liliaccae - 1
Amaryllideae 2
1
Orchideai
Aroideae
Juncagineffi
Fluviale«
778
LANARKSHIRE.
Coniferae
Coryllaceae
Salicineae
Ulmaceae
Urticae
Euphorbiaceae 3
Resedaceae - 1
Thymeleae
Polygoneae
Chenopodeas
Plantagineae
Primulaceae
Lentibulareas
Melampyraceae 1
Labiata? - 19
Scrophularineae 21
Solaneae - 3
Boragineae - 9
ConvolvuJaceae 3
Dicotyledons.
Gentianeae - 2
Apocineae • 2
Alcineae • 2
Ericineae - 3
Vaccineae - 1
Monotropeae 2
Campanulaceae 3
Compositae 46
Dipsaceae - 3
Rubiaceae - 6
Caprifoliaceae 6
Umbelliferaj 17
Saxifrageae - 5
Grossulariae - 3
Halorageae - 2
Onagrariae - 8
Salicareae - 1
Rosaceae - 30
Leguminosae 21
Celastrineaj - 5
Hypericineae - 2
Filiaceae - 1
Malvaceae - 3
Geraniaceae - 7
Oxalideaa - 1
Linear - 2
Caryophylleae 21
Sempervivae - 2
Portulaceae - 2
Cisteae - 1
Polygaleae • 1
Cruciferae - 17
Fumariae - 3
Papaveraceae - 3
Berberidse - 1
Ranunculaceae 12
Valerian eae - 4
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
In the reign of Alexander II., the barony of Both well was held
by Walter Olifard, the justiciary of Lothian, who died in 1242.
In the troublous times which followed the death of Alexander III.
it was in the posession of a family of the name of Moray. It then
consisted, as appears from early writs, of " a tower and fortalice
and their pertinents," and of lands in various districts, constituting
a lordship. It is not, however, till the reign of Edward I. of
England, that the castle and barony of Both well are brought pro-
minently into notice. From an article in the Rotuli Scotiae, already
mentioned, entitled " Progressus et Mansiones Edwardi Primi re-
gis Angliae dum bellum in Scotia gerebat," it appears that Edward
resided in the Castle of Both well from the 17th to the 20th Sep-
tember 1301. In 1307, Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke,
fled from Loudon hill, where he had been defeated by Wallace, to
Both well Castle, and in 1309 he was appointed governor of the
castles of Selkirk and Bothwell. According to Barbour, Sir Wal-
ter Fitzgilbert, ancestor of the family of Hamilton, was governor of
Bothwell at the time of the battle of Bannockburn, as appears
from the following lines :
The Earl of Herford fra the Melle"
Departed with a great menay,
And straucht to Bothwell took the vae
That in the Inglis mennys fay,
Was halden as a place of wer,
Schyr Walter Gilbertson was ther,
Capitaine, &c. &c.
On the death of Robert Bruce, Edward III. again invaded
ROTHWELL. 770
Scotland. In 1336, he was at Both well from the 18th of Novem-
ber till the 13th of the following month, and in the course of that
time fifteen writs, of greater or less importance, were given at
Bothwell, having the following marks subjoined : " T. R. apud
Bothwell, P. I. P. M. regem." Some of these writs are entitled
as follows : " Rex Edwardus in Scotia agens assignat commissa-
rios ad tractandum apud Londinum de defensione Angliae," &c.
(llth December.) " De supersedenda electione hominum in di-
versis oppidis,"&c. (18-25th November.) The Castle and Lordship
of Bothwell afterwards passed through a great variety of hands.
The changes which took place in the possession are fully enume-
rated in the former Statistical Account, and it seems unnecessary
to repeat them here.
Archibald Earl of Forfar, who died at Stirling in 1715, of the
wounds he received in the battle of Sheriffmuir, was then proprie-
tor of the lordship. On his death the estates returned to the
possession of the family of Douglas. Archibald James Edward,
first Baron Douglas, was, after a long litigation, confirmed in the
possession of them by a decision of the House of Peers in J771.
They are now possessed by his eldest son and heir, Archibald,
second Lord Douglas.
This parish is associated with one of the most interesting events
in the history of Scotland— the engagement which took place be-
tween the troops of Charles II. and the Covenanters, on the 22d
June 1679, commonly called the Battle of Bothwell Bridge. The
circumstances are too well known to require particular detail. The
king's forces, under the Duke of Monmouth, were drawn up on
the Bothwell side of the Clyde. The Covenanting army, amount-
ing to about 4000 men, occupied the opposite bank, belonging to
the Duke of Hamilton. The centre of the bridge, which was
then long and narrow, having a portal in the middle, with gates,
had been barricadoed by the Covenanters, and was the chief scene
of the engagement. This post was defended by Hackston of Ra-
thillet and Hall of Haughhead, with 300 men. Hackston dis-
played great courage, and did not abandon the pass till all his
ammunition was expended. When his men were withdrawn, the
Duke's army, with their cannon in front, defiled along the bridge,
and formed in regular line as they reached the other side. The
Duke commanded the foot, and Claverhouse the cavalry. The
Covenanters were soon thrown into disorder, and fled. Monmouth
780 LANARKSHIRE.
humanely issued orders to stop the effusion of blood; but Claver-
house, burning to avenge his defeat at Drumclog, and the death
of his kinsman, made great slaughter among the fugitives. Four
hundred were slain, and twelve hundred made prisoners. These
events are thus described in Clyde, a poem by Wilson, reprinted
in Scottish Descriptive Poems., edited by the late Dr Leyden. Edin-
burgh, 1803.
Where Bothwell's Bridge connects the margin steep,
And Clyde below runs silent, strong and deep,
The hardy peasant by oppression driven
To battle, deem'd his cause the cause of Heaven.
Unskilled in arms, with useless courage stood,
While gentle Monmouth grieved to shed his blood ;
But fierce Dundee, inflamed with deadly hate,
In vengeance for the great Montrose's fale,
Let loose the sword, and to the hero's shade
A barbarous hecatomb of victims paid.
There is an original painting of this battle in Hamilton Palace,
said to have been sketched by an artist on the spot. According
to a tradition in the village of Bothwell, when the Royal army was
lying near the bridge, a child having wandered into the camp, was
found by its parents, after a long search, sitting on the Duke of
Monmouth's knee, who was caressing it with great tenderness.
Owen's Experiment. — As connected with the civil history of this
parish it may be proper to notice, that, in the year 1825, an es-
tablishment was formed at Orbiston, near Billshill, on the prin-
ciples of the co-operative system, or Mr Robert Owen's " new
view of society." The avowed object of the founders was to fur-
nish in this institution a model for others of a similar nature
throughout the country, which, as they boasted, " were to re-
moralize the lower orders, to reduce the poor-rates, gradually
to abolish pauperism, with all its degrading consequences, and to
relieve the country from its (present) distress." The first step to-
wards the attainment of these most desirable objects was the
erection of a building in the form of a parallelogram — a form es-
sential to the new system. Such a building was accordingly com-
menced, to contain when completed 1200 persons. The following
is a schedule of the estimated expense of the whole establishment :
1200 acres of land, at L.30 per acre, . . L.36,000 0 0
Apartments for 1200 persons, . 17,00(
Three public buildings within the square, . . 11,000 0 0
Manufactory, slaughter-house, and washing-house, . 8.000 0 0
Furnishing 300 lodging- rooms, at L. 8 each, <, . 2.400 0 0
Furnishing kitchen, schools, and dormitories, . *. 3,000 0 0
Two farming establishments, with corn-mill, malting, and brewing ap-
pendages, . . . 5,000 0 0
BOTIIWELL. 781
Making the interior of the square, roads, &c. . 1 .3,000 0 0
Stock for the farm under spade cultivation, . . 4,000 0 0
Contingencies and extras, ..... 6,600 0 0
L. 96,000 0 0
Which sum, divided among 1200 persons, was at the rate of L.80
per head.
Scarcely a fourth part of the parallelogram was finished, at an
expense greatly exceeding the original calculation. It consisted
of a central building with a spacious wing, of freestone, four sto-
reys high, and garrets. Each flat was bisected by a passage run-
ning from the one end to the other ; on either side of the passage
there were eighteen rooms, of comfortable dimensions.
Within this structure a population, amounting at one time to
60 adults, and 120 children, was collected from all parts of Scot-
land, England, and Ireland, certainly not the elite of their respec-
tive countries, and the system was commenced. The inmates as-
sembled to their meals in a public room, which was fitted up for
the purpose, but they did not all fare alike. There were four dif-
ferent tables, and four different rates of expense. At the first
table the charge for breakfast, dinner, and supper was 14s. per
week; at the second table, 10s.; at the third, 7s.; and at the
fourth, 5s. 6d. A theatre, lecture-room, and school-rooms were
attached to the establishment, and the children slept in dormito-
ries, apart from their parents.
The principles professed by the managers of the concern, and
the regulations by which they attempted to carry the new system
into effect, it would not be easy to explain, and it could serve no
good purpose. There was a small publication distributed among
the members, entitled " The Religious Creed of the New Sys-
tem, with an Explanatory Catechism, and an Appeal," &c. The
author, Abram Combe, who was also overseer or principal mana-
ger of the establishment, says in the preface, " The following
pages contain a candid statement of the religious impressions which
an attentive perusal of his, (Mr Owen's,) writings has made upon
my mind." From this statement, we learn that Mr Combe re-
ceived what he calls his " religious impressions" from an attentive
perusal of Mr Owen's writings, and they are certainly worthy of
such an origin. The chief merit of his book consists in its being
for the most part utterly unintelligible. So far as a notion can be
formed of its contents, it may be justly charactemed as a farrago
of crudities, absurdities, unfounded and infidel assertions, that can
782 LANARKSHIRE.
impose on no man of ordinary understanding, and that could have
been derived only from writings such as Mr Owen's. The con-
duct of the disciples of the new system was in perfect consistency
with their creed. They gloried in the open desecration of the
Lord's day. Some, it was said, followed their ordinary occupa-
tions on the Sabbath, others spent it in seeking amusement, and
not a few prostituted it to the purposes of intemperance. They
made no pretensions to superior virtue, and they disregarded the
ordinary forms and decencies of civilized life. Six individuals died
at the establishment, and were interred in a private burying-ground
connected with it. Their corpses were carelessly shut up in un-
stained fir deal coffins, and, without any mark of affection or re-
spect, were committed to the grave by a few of the inmates in their
ordinary clothes, after working hours.
Mr Combe, after eulogizing Mr Owen's discovery as calculated
" to produce the happiest effects to the whole human race, with-
out injuring in the slightest degree the interest of a solitary indi-
vidual," adds, " its utility and practicability may be incontroverti-
bly decided, by a short experiment, whenever mankind shall be
induced to make it." The experiment was made at New Orbis-
ton, and the result was the very reverse of all Mr Combe's antici-
pations. It was most injurious to the interests of the gentleman
who conveyed to the establishment the lands on which the buildings
were erected, and on whose credit chiefly the funds necessary to
their erection were procured. It was worse than useless to those who
enrolled themselves members, and embraced the principles of the
institution ; and it terminated, as was easily foreseen by all but
Mr Owen and the dupes of his delusion, in a total failure. After
struggling for a short time with impracticable difficulties, it became
necessary to dissolve the society, and to dispose of the property.
The buildings, which originally cost L. 12,000, were estimated to
the purchaser at L. 2000. When taken down the materials were
resold for less than the purchase money, and now not one stone
is left standing on another.
There is one circumstance connected with the history of this
establishment which it would be unpardonable to omit. When
the runious state of the parish church led to its abandonment,
a portion of that fabric which had been upreared for the pro-
pagation of infidelity, supplied for two years, after it had been
vacated by the inhabitants, a convenient place of worship to
BOTHWELL. 783
the minister and congregation, where they regularly assemblecTwith
the returning Sabbath to adore and serve that God who maketh
the wrath of man to praise him, and whose goodness they desire
gratefully to record in providing for them a sanctuary in their time of
need, where they could meet together in comfort, to confess their
faith in Christ, to learn his will, and to celebrate the ordinances
of his appointment.
The name given to the establishment by the founders was New
Orbiston. It was universally known throughout the country by
the more appropriate appellation of Babylon.*
Buildings. — Bothwell Castle, one of the residences of the Right
Honourable Lord Douglas, is of plain simple architecture, but a
large commodious mansion, consisting of a centre and two wings,
built of the same red stone as the old Castle. The public apart-
ments are very spacious. In several of the rooms there are many
excellent portraits, not a few of them by Vandyke. There are al-
so one or two relics not unworthy the attention of the antiquary.
The old Castle of Bothwell and surrounding grounds have long
been celebrated, certainly not without reason, for more beautiful
or striking scenery could scarcely be conceived : — the waters of the
"flowing Clyde," — its bold and richly wooded banks, — the stately
ruins of the old Castle, and a hundred other beauties — all contri-
bute to ornament these truly classic grounds.
The walks along the banks of the Clyde and the pleasure-grounds
are laid out with exquisite taste, and are kept in the highest or-
der.
Woodhall, situated on the banks of the North Calder, near the
village of Holytown, is also a spacious mansion. The property
was long in the possession of a family of the name of Hamilton,
who were barons of the barony of Thankerton, anciently part of
the Lordship of Torphichen. It now belongs to W. F. Campbell,
Esq. of Islay, and is well known for its extensive gardens, vineries,
and green-houses. The celebrated W. Aiton, Esq. of Kew Gar-
den, was gardener at Woodhall before he went to London. The
house is of the style of architecture of the age of Louis XIV.;
the apartments contain a number of good pictures, and a variety
of excellent busts ; the library is ancient and curious ; in the en-
trance hall there are several French cuirasses and helmets of brass,
* Another Babylon, upon simil ir principles, was lately reared by a lady of fortune
in Germany, and has already, like the above, come to a disgraceful termination.
784 LANARKSHIRE.
brought from the field of Waterloo. — Cairnbroe, i. e. the cairn
of stones, the property of James Meiklam, Esq. ; St. Enoch's
Hall, the property of William Hozier, Esq. both on the north Cal-
der. Cleland, probably Clayland, the property of North Dal-
rymple, Esq ; Carfin, the property of Robert Stewart, Esq. ; Jer-
viston, the property of Mrs Drysdale ; Douglas Park, the pro-
perty of Mrs Douglas, all on the South Calder, are large and ele-
gant seats. The grounds around them are extensive and pictu-
resque, deriving great beauty from the bold and richly wooded
banks of the streams on which they are situated. Bothwell Park,
the property of Mrs Hamilton, is a large and handsome building.
It commands a beautiful and extensive view of Hamilton haughs,
and the vale of Clyde to the east.
At Cleland the united Presbytery of Hamilton and Lanark
seem to have held their first meeting. The first entry in their re-
cord is as follows, " At Cleland, September 6th 1687, Session I.
Mr Andrew Morton, moderator." A little above the house in
a rock on the bank of the Calder is a cave which is said to have
been a hiding place for the persecuted, in the " troublous times."
Bothwell Haugh, celebrated in history as the residence of James
Hamilton who shot the Regent Murray, is now a farm belonging
to the Duke of Hamilton. It is situated on the Clyde, about a
mile to the east of Bothwell Bridge.
On the night before Hamilton left Scotland for France, he took
refuge at Lauchop, a property in the east district of the parish,
belonging now to J. Roberton, Esq. but then to a family of the
name of Muirhead. The proprietor was a brother in-law of Ha-
milton's : and for the shelter afforded to his relative, his house was
burnt to the ground, and he was amerced in a large sum by go-
vernment.
There are several other handsome residences in the parish,
which, did space permit, might with propriety be particularized.
State of Property. — The property of the parish is possessed
by 45 heritors. The number of acres possessed by each — the
valued rent in Scots money — the poor's stent from Lammas (1st
August) 1835, to Candlemas 1836, and the statute labour money
for the same period, are as follows. The poor stent and the statute
labour money are for six months only.
BOTH WELL.
'85
1 <B
II
c
. .
U
1 %
3 *2
o
11
iS
II
&
iSJ
t,. S. D.
L. S. 1).
L. S. D.
L. s. r>.
W. F. Campbell, Woodhall
1162
972 9 9
12 0 0
12 3 0
5 10 3
Lord Douglas
480
732 8 1
15 5 0
8 15 6
680
N. Dalrymple of Cleland
679
613 0 0
900
6 4 104
5 10 0
J. Meiklehatn, Carnbroe
752
443 6 8
8 5 34
273
536
Do. for part of Orbiston
63 19 10
Do. for Unthank
91 4 8
Mrs Douglas, Douglas Park
453
401 10 Hi
8 7 2|
6 15 0
568
Do. for part of Orbiston
242 10 7
R. Steuart of Carfin
364
375 0 0
735
1 7 0
370
Mrs Drysdale of Jerviston
305
336 0 0
434
1 7 0
300
Duke of Hamilton
367
327 17 7
6 16 54
6 4 7f
2 15 0
J. G. Muirhead, Brandiesholm
373
326 0 0
6 15 10
1 10 0
Do. for Newlands
30 0 0
J. Roberton of Lauchop
383
275 7 5
3 1 4
200
1 7 0
Thomas Gibb of Orbiston
307
259 17 104
4 16 21
1 10 0
R. A. Ironside of Tannochside
310
261 12 11
3 17 01
1 9 8|
1 7 0
R. Jolly of Stevenson
320
226 0 0
4 14 1-4
200
Mrs Hamilton of Bothwell Park
205
181 11 5
3 13 14
2 7 44
1 10 7
Mrs Pye Douglas of Rosehall
300
168 13 4
2 1 54
1 13 0
1 8 6
Andrew Jack of Uddingston
222
144 14 6
2 2 34
1 13 9
0 17 4
Thomas Marshall of Sandyford
300
125 0 0
2 12 1
I 2 6
James Cross of Clydeside
105
117 18 9
292
399
Col. Elphinstone of Monkland
110
115 10 9
2 8 24
2 10 0
1 3 11
D. M'Haffie of Parkhead
155
103 10 8<
1 I 7|
2 1 0
0 9 1
John Rae, Uddingston
120
100 12 8
2 1 114
273
0 15 7
John Bain of Westport
145
89 5 9
17 01
2 14 0
0 16 104
Mrs Hamilton of Sweethope
60
86 8 6
15 34
2 14 0
0 15 8
Andrew Rae of Boog
110
68 10 1
8 74
206
0 11 9
John Scott, Uddingston
67
60 4 7
5 1|
200
069
J. Wilkie of Knowhead
18
55 10 1
3 31
9 0
083
James Naismith, Bothwell
55
43 0 9
0 18 0
12 6A
0 10 0
Alexander Ross of Spindlehow
49
42 10 0
0 17 94
7 0
•0 10 0
John Brakenridge, Parkhead
38
40 0 0
0 16 8
0 3
0 9 1
W. Robertson of Viewpark
50
25 0 0
0 10 5
o 24
0 16 104
Captain Cross, Lauchop -Mill
6
22 0 0
092
069
053
J. Braidwood, Uddingston
26
21 7 4
0 8 114
7 0
073
W. Bogle of Bothwell-bank
25
19 16 6
084
12 7|
069
Capt. Aikman of Back Sweethope
60
17 13 1
0 7 If
7 0
058
W. Monteith of Woodend
6
17 0 0
0 7 1
069
0 4 0
G. Scott, Daldowie
14
16 19 4
0 6 114
1 7 0
0 3 10
James Cross of Bent
22
700
0211
0 13 6
032
P. Bald of Langdales
17
400
0 lOi
o 10 114
0 1 4
W. Scott of Kirklands
10
400
0 9
0 10 10
0 1 2
Captain Bogle
04
300
0 4
0 3 94
000
James Watt, Ashlygrains
200
0 4
0 6 2|
0 1 2
James Reid, Omoa Iron-works
1
1 0 0
0 0 10
0 9 52
000
R. Kent, Bothwell
OL
0 11 8
0 0 10
0 0 10
000
F. Braidwood, Uddingston
Of
270
0 3
0 2 34
000
J. Efrlintoun. Uddineston
1
270
0 3
0 1 8
000
The assessment for the poor's stent is at the rate of five pence per
pound Sterling, for the statute labour at L.2, 14s. per plough-gate,
or 13s. 6d a horse-gate.
786
LANARKSHIRE.
In 1650, the rental of the parish was L.1950, 18s. 5/gd.; in
1782, L. 4431, 7s. 4d. ; in 1791, L. 5500 ; and in 1825, the whole
annual value of real property assessed was L. 16,053. This includes
house property and other means, which, it will be observed, are not
taken into account in the preceding table. The additional value
of landed property in this parish in Sterling money, at the present
day, as compared with the period of the Union, may be about
L. 10,621, 12s. 4d.
The land is laid out in about 145 farms and small tenements.
Probably about 78 of the tenants are in possession of regu-
lar leases ; the highest rent paid for any farm is L. 340 ; up-
wards of 1272 acres, worth probably about L.2248 per annum,
are in the natural possession of the proprietors themselves. The
remaining acres (11,204) are tenanted, and are divided nearly as
follows :
Acres.
Rent.
Acres.
Rent.
Acres
Rent.
Acres.
Rent.
Acres.
Rent.
80
L.80
130
L.100
130
L220
100
L.120
60
L. 80
90
90
100
90
12
40
85
80
20
10
120
146
9
9
80
110
30
60
155
200
80
60
6
10
3
6
50
50
120
240
30
30
85
170
80
130
18
25
145
240
45
70
40
60
110
150
6
6
40
90
150
220
5
7
90
180
10
20
3
13
40
50
22
2-2
3
6
10
15
10
12
14
12
174
340
50
50
10
20
2
12
8
8
70
55
80
80
80
110
5
15
50
45
90
180
40
40
25
30
110
200
16
14
80
170
50
60
30
45
60
125
35
30
8
20
50
40
6
9
18
40
60
50
24
6
35
30
4
8
55
100
6
5
5
3
30
30
1
12
38
60
5
4
2
2
40
70
1
10
50
100
200
80
2
4
8
16
8
16
6
9
80
40
160
270
80
110
100
130
26
60
120
90
65
110
90
120
65
130
25
50
80
80
60
60
25
50
2
10
60
50
70
60
35
40
46
50
80
60
6
16
11
11
4
10
10
15
40
20
14
20
50
35
120
250
12
12
40
20
22
30
60
80
24
20
22
25
40
30
17
24
60
60
10
16
6
6
20
20
10
30
20
25
70
120
10
10
60
40
04
2
8
4
14
12
12
12
20
15
14
60
70
4
6
110
200
70
70
I
3
80
100
3
5
105
110
70
200
150
200
145
260
75
100
30
40
The above table is not scrupulously correct, but it is not far
from the truth.
The land of the parish may be divided pretty much as follows:
Moor or coarse pasture, 100 acres.
Woods, roads, wastes, &c, - 2000
BOTHWELL. 787
Land
worth
worth
L.O
L.I
1
1
2
3
10
0
10
15
0
0
Oper
0
0
0
0
Oand
acre,
upwards,
1000
1000
4000
- 4000
1300
200
Parochial Registers. — The oldest date in the parochial regis-
ters is 7th February 1700, The number of volumes is about
thirty in all. With a few exceptions they have not in general
been accurately kept.
For the interest of those concerned it may be proper to state,
that the register of baptisms from 1790 to 1796, and part of 1797,
is in the hands of Mr Chrystal, writer, Stirling, or his heirs.
When the census of 1801 was taken up, there were 661 chil-
dren in the parish whose names had not been entered in the re-
gister. The total number registered in 1801 is 37.
Eminent Characters. — Mr William Aiton, author of the " Hor-
tus Kewensis," was a native of this parish. After residing many
years at Woodhall, he, in 1754, went up to England, and in 1759
was pointed out to the Princess Dowager of Wales, and George
III. as a person well qualified to form the botanical garden then
contemplated at Kew. He had for thirty-four years the superin-
tendence of this celebrated garden.
His eldest son was appointed by George IV. surveyor-general
of the royal gardens.
Messrs Robert and Thomas Hamilton, sons of Mr W. Hamil-
ton, ordained minister of this parish in 1709, succeeded each other
as Professors of Anatomy in the University of Glasgow. They
were both eminent in their profession, and were the lineal de-
scendants of Captain James Hamilton, who led the Covenanters
at Drumclogand Bothwell Bridge in 1679.
Miss Joanna Baillie, daughter of the Rev. James Baillie, D.D.,
at one time minister of this parish, and afterwards Professor of
Divinity in the University of Glasgow, was born in Bothwell
manse. She is celebrated as the author of a Series of Plays on
the Passions, and some smaller works.
Antiquities. — The Castle of Bothwell, now in ruins, is an an-
cient and venerable structure. It is situated on the summit of a
beautifully sloping green bank, with the Clyde sweeping its base,
and is ornamented on every side with extensive woods and plea-
sure-grounds of extreme richness and beauty. In ancient times
Bothwell was a place of great feudal splendour, but now
788 LANARKSHIRE.
The tufted grass lines Bothwell's ancient hall,
The fox peeps cautious from the creviced wall,
Where once proud Murray, Clydesdale's ancient Lord,
A mimic sovereign held the festal board.
This noble structure, which Dr MacCulloch justly says is per-
haps the most magnificent ruin in Scotland, is of an oblong form.
The front wall extends about 234 feet along the summit of the
bank, and at each end is terminated by a lofty tower. The breadth
may be about 99 feet over the walls. The interior of the ruin pre-
sents the appearance of a large court, and it is somewhat difficult
to determine what may have occupied this area in former days.
At the east end the remains of the chapel are plainly discernible
from the form of the windows. The stair leading to the top of
the large western tower is on the whole pretty entire, but the de-
cayed state of some of the steps having rendered the ascent some-
what hazardous, the entrance to it is secured by a door which is
generally locked. But for this latter barrier the top may yet be
reached without great difficulty, and the view to be obtained from
it will amply compensate the labour and risk of the attempt.
The entrance to the interior of the ruin is oii the north about the
middle of the wall ; vestiges of the fosse are still visible. The old
well was discovered, about fifty years ago, in a corner of one of the
towers, penetrating through the rock to a good spring. It has
again been covered up. In the front wall, entering by a small
opening from the court, there is a circular cavern about '20 feet
deep and 12 in diameter, which from its form, is commonly known
by the popular appellation of Wallace's beef-barrel. In former
times it has evidently been used for the confinement of prisoners.
Within and around the walls there are several turrets, distinguish-
ed by the names of Valence Tower, Douglas Tower, &c. There
are also some chambers nearly entire. A list of the successive
proprietors is given in the last Statistical Account, quoted from a
MS. of Mr Hamilton of Wishaw, now printed for the Maitland
Club. Guthrie says that the castle was besieged by the Scots in
1337, who took it by storm, and dismantled it. This was two
years after Edward III. had resided in it for twenty-six days, and
in the same year that Walter de Selby was keeper. It is said
that a great part of the ruin was taken down by the Earl of For-
far, and the stones employed in building a modern mansion.
The old Church of Bothwell is a very ancient structure, and
presents a fine specimen of Gothic architecture. It was used in
former times as the quire of the collegiate church of Bothwell.
BOTHWELL. 789
In Catholic times, Bothwell was the most important of the five
collegiate churches of Lanarkshire. It was established by Archi-
bald Douglas, Lord of Galloway, (who married Johanna Moray,
heiress of Bothwell,) 10th October 1398, and was confirmed by
a charter from the King, 5th February 1398-9. It was about this
period that the present quire was built. The master-mason, as
was indicated by an inscription in Saxon letters on a stone near
the outer base of the old steeple, now removed, was Thomas Tron.
The roof is arched and lofty, and presents the most remarkable fea-
ture of the building ; on the outside it is covered with large flags of
stone, hewn into the form of tiles resting on a mass of lime and stone,
which in the centre is 11 feet in depth. The side walls are
strengthened by strong buttresses to support the weight of the roof.
The old church was deserted as a place of worship in 1828,
and now presents a very dilapidated appearance. For the credit
of the parish it ought to be repaired.
Bothwell Bridge. — The age of this structure cannot now be as-
certained, but it is of great antiquity. In the Acta Parliamentorum,
temp. Car. 1. there is an act (1647) for a contribution to repair the
bridge of Bothwell. It consisted originally of four arches, hav-
ing each a span of 45 feet, and 15 feet broad. Some years ago,
a large addition was made to the old structure, by which the road-
way was widened from 12 feet to 32.
About a quarter of a mile east of Bothwell Haugh, there is a
bridge across the South Calder, supposed to be of Roman con-
struction ; it consists of one arch of a semicircular form, very high
and narrow, and without parapets. The stones are neatly hewn,
and well put together, and the whole structure is still in perfect
preservation. It is supposed to have been on the line of the great
Roman road called Watlin Street (so named probably from Vi-
tellius), which ran through this part of the country for several
miles, on the north-east bank of the Clyde.
III. — POPULATION.
A comparative view of the population in former times, and at
the present day, may be deduced from a variety of documents in
the possession of the session-clerk. The following tables possess
considerable interest, and are all derived from authentic sources.
The parochial books, towards the beginning of last century, are
very accurately kept, and may be depended on. About that pe-
riod, the marriages, baptisms, and deaths, were as follows :
LANARK. 3 K
790
LANARKSHIRE.
Years. Proclamations. Births.
1700
1710
1720
1730
1740
1750
Totals, 6 years,
Averages,
15
10
16
19
20
20
Too
16
39
33
38
32
39
219
36
Deaths.
32
41
27
33
29
18
180
30
If the 16 marriages be taken at the same ratio as at present?
(a very doubtful basis), the population about the beginning of
the eighteenth century must have been 1672 souls, which is about
105 more than the return given to Dr Webster in 1755. At the
same rate, there would be one marriage to 105 souls, one baptism
to 47, and one death to 54. The following tables of the procla-
mations, baptisms, and burials, from 1760 to 1800, extending over
a space of forty years, and including an average of twenty-three
years, are from an original manuscript engrossed in the population
lists for 1801 by Mr Allan, late parochial schoolmaster of Both well.
Proclama-
Baptisms.
Deaths.
Years.
tions.
Males.
Females.
Total.
Males.
Females.
Total.
1760,
22
21
22
43
20
15
35
1770,
18
39
36
75
17
6
23
1780,
19
41
42
83
8
10
18
1781,
26
32
42
74
17
J5
32
1782,
22
35
46
81
12
18
30
1783,
23
42
32
74
10
7
17
1784,
26
41
30
71
20
21
41
1785,
16
29
49
78
16
13
29
1786,
12
25
,27
52
6
9
15
1787,
23
42
38
80
19
18
37
1788,
31
46
39
85
19
16
35
1789,
26
45
49
94
13
16
29
1790,
24
51
50
101
28
25
53
1791,
27
35
43
78
23
27
50
1792,
34
33
39
72
14
20
34
1793,
34
40
36
76
23
30
53
1794,
21
39
28
67
23
25
48
1795,
24
32
34
66
18
15
33
1796,
27
37
53
90
13
14
27
1797,
29
35
32
67
22
20
42
1798,
30
38
33
71
24
35
59
1799,
37
39
15
54
22
35
57
1800,
33
38
21
59
19
20
39
Totals,
584
855
836
1691
406
430
836
Averages
25^
371
364
74
16
20
36
If we take the average population through the above period at
2000, which is perhaps a short estimate, there is one marriage to 77
persons nearly, one birth to 28, and one death to 55. In compar-
ing this with the former period, it is observable that the marriages
3
BOTHWELL. 791
and births have greatly increased, while the proportion of deaths
is nearly the same. It was about 1760 that rapid advances began
to be made in agriculture and commerce. With these the com-
forts of the people and the means of subsistence were multiplied,
and afforded the encreased facilities of contracting marriages, and
rearing families, which the above tables indicate.
The following tables of the present proportion of births, mar-
riages, and deaths, are scarcely so accurate as the former. The
proclamations are quite accurate, but the baptisms and deaths
were made up from a variety of sources. They are, however, very
near the truth.
Proclamations.
Births.
Deaths.
1830,
44
196
146
1831,
46
190
150
1832,
56
179
160
1833,
56
201
140
1834,
61
196
132
1835,
55
180
133
Totals,
318
1142
861
Average
s, 53
191 •
144
Taking the present population at 6402, there will be one mar-
riage to 120 persons, one birth to 33, and one death to 45 nearly.
As compared with the two former periods, it stands thus :
One marriage One baptism One death
to to to Population.
From 1700 to 1750, 105 - 47 54 1672
From 1760 to 1800, 77 - 28 55 2000
From 1830 to 1836, 120 - 33 45 6402
Averages lOOf 36 54$ 3358
The marriages are the best ascertained of all the above tables.
The following estimate, made up from an inspection of the pro-
clamation books belonging to the parish, will furnish an idea of
the proportion which the different classes of people marrying bear
to each other. Those marked at 4s. and 10s. are of the poor and
working classes; those at L.I, Is. are the higher and wealthier
parishioners. These sums are paid as the fees for proclamation.
At 4s. At 10s. At L. 1, Is.
1830, - 32 - 10 - 20 L. 13 14 0
1831, - 30 - 15 - 10 19 0 0
1832, 44 8-40 20 3 0
1833, 39 - 10 - 7 0 20 3 0
1834, 44 - 11 - 5 0 19 11 0
1835, 34 - 14 - 7 0 20 3 0
Totals, 214 68 26 0 L. 122 12~ 0
The proportion married who pay L. 1, Is. is about a twelfth of
the whole numbers proclaimed ; those who pay 10s. are less than a
fifth j and those who pay 4s. not quite two-thirds.
792
LANARKSHIRE.
The following is a state of the population at different periods
since the first census was taken for Dr Webster in 1755 :
Years.
1755,
1791,
1801,
1811,
1821,
1831,
1836,
Souls.
1561
2707
3017
3745
4844
5545
6581
Increase. Marriages.
21
27
34
45
51
46
1146
310
728
1099
701
1036
55
Births.
42
101
90
110
184
190
180 .
Deaths.
33
53
59
79
139
150
133
The increase in eighty-one years is 5020, which is at the rate of
62 nearly per annum. The increase in the neighbouring parish of
Hamilton is 75 per annum. The relative numbers of the popula-
tion in 1791 and in 1821 were as follows :
Under 15 years of age,
From 15 to 70,
Above 70,
1791.
1112
1535
60
2707
1821.
2089
2647
108
4844
The following particulars were ascertained in 1821 at the time
of taking up the census :
Males.
Females.
5 years of age and under,
416
360
5 to 10,"
333
368
10 — 15,
304
308
15 — 20,
247
250
20 — 30,
368
403
30 — 40,
256
249
40 — 50,
214
209
50 — 60,
123
150
60—70,
83
95
70 — 80, .
36
45
80 — 90,
9
17
90 to 100,
1
0
2390 2454 = to 4844 souls.
Between 1811 and 1821, there were 1504 births, 800 were
males, and 704 females, and 890 deaths, of which 460 were males,
and 430 females. The excess of births over deaths is 614, and
there is 151 births per annum as an average, and 89 deaths.
The population in 1821, at the following ages, was as follows :
Males. Females.
1053
/ 615
470
206
\ 46
Under 15 years of age,
Between 15 and 30,
30 and 50,
50 and 70,
Up wards of 70,
1036
653
458
245
62
Total.
2089
1268
928
451
108
2390
2454
4844
The males below five years of age are about a twelfth of the po-
pulation, and the females are a thirteenth. The males above seven-
BOTHWELL. 793
ty are 46, and the females 62, = 108; being less than a fortieth
of the population. The population of the several districts into
which the parish is usually divided, at different periods since the last
Statistical report for the year 1791, is stated below:
1791. 1801. 1811. *1821. 1831.
Woodhall, Lauchope, and Lideridge, . "779 900 1500 1600 1801
Stevenston, Carfin, Cleland, Jerviston, . 495 519 612 1022 1122
Orbiston, Upper and Lower, . 526 608 711 1061 1161
Back of Moor Carnbrae, . .195 213 241 306 406
Uddingstone and out-farms, . . 287 .306 320 373 473
Bothwell out-farms and castle, . 425 471 461 482 582
2707 3017 3745 4844 5545
The following particulars are from the census taken up for the
Church Commission in 1836 :
Souls. Under 7 years. Under 12 years.
Bothwell village and out-farms, 725 152 240
Uddingstone and Bothwell Castle, 644 141 206
E. Bellshill, Parkhead, and Low Orbiston, 975 185 185
Holy town, . . . .755 146 239
Chapelhall, . . .641 199 332
Newarthill, . . • 564 110 180
Legbrannock and Thankerton collieries, and
Omoa foundery, . . 864 193 306
Total in villages, . 5368 1124 1688
In the country part of the parish, . 1213 2283 330
Total population, . 6581 1347 2018
The total increase since 1831 is 1036 souls, which is at the rate
of 207 per annum. At the first enrolment of voters there were 140
L. 10 voters upon the roll. At last general election 65 voted for
the Liberal candidate, 41 for the Conservative, and 34 did not vote.
Present number of voters 181.
1801. 1821. 1831.
Number of families, . . 786 980 1091
Average number of children in each family, 4 4| 5
Number of inhabited houses, . 711 836 1086
Houses uninhabited or building, . 21 13 41
Character of the People. — There is a general taste for cleanli-
ness among the people. The village of Bothwell is remarkable in
that respect, and the Douglas Arms Inn, in the village, long kept
by Meg Steel, was, in her day, famous as perhaps the cleanest house
in the county. The agricultural part of the population are sober,
active, and intelligent, regular in their attendance on the house of
God and the public ordinances of religion, and careful to give their
children the best education which their circumstances will afford.
Since the introduction of weaving by steam, the hand-loom weavers
have been sadly depressed in their circumstances. It is with ex-
794 LANARKSHIRE.
treme difficulty that they can rear and educate their families. Few
of their children now learn the trade of weaving, or continue at it
after they have learned it, if they can find employment otherwise.
Their number is consequently diminishing. The condition of the
other operatives is in general comfortable. The colliers and miners
exhibit the usual characteristics of these classes.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
The following list, including the principal trades in the parish,
with the number employed in each, is given in the last Statistical
Account.
Bakers, . . 4 Blacksmiths, . 19
Shopkeepers, . 14 Tailors, . .14
Stocking-weavers, . 21 Shoemakers, . . 22
Colliers, . . 50 Millers, . . 6
Masons, . .41 Coopers, . . 6
Weavers, . . 407 Innkeepers, . . 20
Joiners, . . 19
The trades and occupations in 1836, and the number of hands
employed in each, have been very accurately ascertained. They
are as follows :
Colliers, . 263 Shoemakers, . 23 Gamekeepers, . 7
Labourers, . 211 Stocking-weavers, 18 Overseers, .
Weavers, . 407 Tailors, . 16 Sawyers, . 7
Farmers, . 78 Slaters, . 2 Grooms, . 4
Publicans, . 52 Gardeners, . 15 Toll-keepers, . 4
Blacksmiths, 38 Engineers, . 13 Surgeons, . 5
Shopkeepers, . 37 Bakers, . 8 Graziers, . 4
Masons, . 29 Teachers, . 10 Millers, 5
Joiners, . 27 Moulders, . 7
Carters, . 27 Flesbers, 6
Besides the above, there are bricklayers, horse-keepers, hostlers,
cooks, road-makers, coachmen, butlers, mole-catchers, carriers,
&c. ; one or two of each. Since last report of the parish, the num-
ber of colliers has increased from 50 to 263.
Agriculture.— There can scarcely be said to b e either moss,
moor, or morass in the parish. In general the whole land is ara-
ble. The soil is chiefly clay, variously mixed with loam, sand,
and till. In some parts it is of a lighter mould. It is very fertile
towards the Clyde, and there is much excellent land in other parts
of the parish. In the west districts, manure is procured from Ha-
milton and Glasgow. It is supplied in the east by the villages
which are enlarging and multiplying with the public works. From
the nature of the soil, and the declination of a great part of the
parish towards the Clyde, on the south, frequent showers are of
advantage, both in spring and summer. In favourable seasons the
crops are abundant, and of excellent quality.
BOTHWELL. 795
The usual rotation of cropping when the last statistical report
was prepared, was, summer fallow, limed or dunged. First year,
wheat ; second, pease ; third, oats sown with grass, cut one year
or two, and pastured as many, -or instead of oats the third year,
barley, prepared with frequent ploughing and dunging, and laid
down with grass seeds. At present there can scarcely be said to
be any regular rotation generally followed. On a farm, say of
84 acres, the mode of cropping adopted is pretty much, as under
8 acres wheat; 2 potatoes; 10 pease and beans; 10 hay; 25
oats; 8 fallow ; 21 pasture.
There are in the parish 346 horses charged on the Statute La-
bour Act, at 13s. 6d. per horse, assessed on land; 33 charged at
the same rate, not assessed on land, in all 379 horses, paying an
annual tax of L. 233, 13s. lOjd. The number of cows kept is
about 1 000, and of the 12,044 arable acres English, upwards of two-
fifths are in pasture. The number of pigs may amount to about
600. The dairy cows are almost all of the Lanarkshire variety
of the Ayrshire breed ; a description of which is given in the ac-
count of the parish of Hamilton. The lower parts of the parish
are well enclosed. The usual duration of leases is nineteen years.
The farm-houses, are, for the most part, neither so good nor com-
fortable as they ought to be. There are some, however, both com-
modious and in good repair.
In place of horses, the late Lord Douglas occasionally employ-
ed oxen at Both well Castle, in agricultural labour. By a careful
examination, and comparative estimate, made by Mr Creech, his
Lordship's late highly intelligent manager, the following interest-
ing facts were ascertained :
" An ox at the price of L. 7, 10s. is equally strong in draught
with a horse at L. 20, and equally fit for the plough, cart, or har-
row. The ox requires one-fourth less fodder than the horse, and on-
ly a little unthreshed oats, from an eighth to a sixth of what is re-
quisite to support the horse; and if 14lbs. of raw potatoes be given
to the ox in a day, he will require no oats, and will not consume
more than half the fodder eaten by the horse. The ox may be
wrought from four to ten years of age, and still encrease in size, and
be capable of carrying more flesh when he is turned out to fatten,
whereas the horse in that time will lose much of his value. The
ox may be turned to pasture in summer, as soon as he is taken
from the yoke, and will gather his own food without requiring any
796 LANARKSHIRE.
corn or attendance. The ox is as much fatigued with seven hours
work in the day, as the horse is with eight. After the ox has filled
his belly, he must have time to ruminate, and therefore cannot be
baited and put to work a second £ime the same day like the horse,
without being greatly injured."
The village of Uddingstone has been long famous for the manu-
facture of Wilkie's plough, which is now generally used in all the
well cultivated districts of Scotland, and in many parts of England ;
and is to be found in almost ' every quarter of the globe. It was
first made by the late Mr John Wilkie in 1800. From 1800 till
1810, it was mounted with a wooden frame-work. Since 1810 it
has been wholly constructed of iron. It is lighter, more manage-
able, and forms a more acute angle than any plough at present
known. The common two-horse plough weighs about Ij cwt.
and costs L. 4. Some of superior workmanship and materials are
charged as high as eight guineas. Cast iron socks were introduced in
18*29, and are now generally used, especially in the west of Scot-
land. The demand for Wilkie's plough in the West Indies has
greatly increased since the emancipation of the slaves. Last year
it amounted to 150. It is there drawn by oxen, and is highly recom-
mended by George Richardson Porter in his late work on the Su-
gar Cane. Upwards of 10,000 ploughs have been made by Mr Wil-
kie and his son since the year 1800. Mr Wilkie also invented an
adjusting brake or cultivator, used chiefly as a grubber, auxiliary
to the plough, in working fallows and cleaning land; and his son
and successor, Mr James Wilkie, has invented the horse-hoe, and
a drill harrow of great utility to the farmer.* Agricultural imple-
ments of all kinds, and on the most improved construction, are
made at his works.
Quarries and Mines. — There are several quarries of excellent
freestone, towards the Clyde, of a red colour, and white in the up-
per parts of the parish. There is also abundance of coal. The
ell coal, the nine feet coal, and the splint coal are all wrought at
Chapelhall. At Woodneuck, there is a seam of splint coal
wrought, seven fathoms below the ironstone. The iron-works are
supplied with ironstone chiefly from Airdrie hill, Meadow hill,
Calderbrae, and Dalmacauther. The Monkland Iron and Steel
Company, who have works at Chapelhall, make from three fur-
* He has likewise invented a new turn-wrest plough, for which he last year receiv-
ed a premium from the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland.
BOTHWELL. 797
naces, 1 100 tons of pig-iron per month ; from other two, which
are nearly ready to blow, they will make 900 tons additional.*
They likewise manufacture about 100 tons of steel yearly, of
which about 30 tons are made into files. Thirty ton's of scrap-iron
are collected monthly, and wrought into steam-boat engines, and
other articles. Upwards of 700 individuals, viz. colliers, miners,
furnace-men, forge-men, and labourers, are employed at the works.
Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in
the parish, so far as can be ascertained, may be stated as under ;
Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for the food of man
or the domestic animals, . L. 20,000 0 0
Potatoes, turnips, pease, &c. . . 5,000 0 0
Hay, whether meadow or cultivated, . . 3,000 0 0
Crops cultivated for the arts, such as flax, &c. . 100 0 0
Pasture, .... 5,000 0 0
Gardens and orchards, . . . 300 0 0
Miscellaneous, . . . 600 0 0
263 colliers put out say 8 tons each a- week, or 14,736 per annum, at 5s.
per ton, . . . 2,205 8 0
26,700 tons of pig-iron, at L. 5 per ton, . 163,500 0 0
Ironstone and other minerals, . . 500 0 0
Total gross value, . L. 200,205 8 0
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Market-Town, c§*c. — The nearest market-town is Hamilton,
which is about two miles distant from the church. Glasgow is eight
miles distant, and Airdrie about seven miles. The principal villa-
ges are, Holytown, Bellshill, Newarthill, Chapelhall, Bothwell and
Uddingstone. There are post-offices at Bothwell, Bellshill, and
Holytown.
Means of Communication. — The means of communication by
roads are very extensive. There are in the parish 17 miles, 2 fur-
longs, 9 perches of toll roads ; and 33 miles, 4 furlongs, and 24
perches of parish roads.
The conversion money for statute labour raised in the parish of
Bothwell during the last fifteen years is as follows :
1821, - L. 332 10 0 1829, L.356 4 6
1822, - 330 0 0 1830,
1823, - 325 7 7 1831,
1824, ' - 346 15 64, 1832,
1825, -..- 368 16 U 1833,
1826, - 371 0 4^ 1834,
1827, - 342 0 64 1835,
1828, - 336 18 0
365 17 1
337 0 3
308 5 14
420 12 84
322 11 4|
321 6 10 J
Total, L.5216 16 1£
* Since 1836, the two furnaces have been completed. The Monkland Company
are also preparing mills and forges capable of producing upwards of 220 tons of mal-
leable iron per week. At Carnbroe, Alison and Co. have erected two furnaces ca-
pable of yielding 130 tons per week, and frequently run ten tons at a cast;— -two more
are building, and other two are contemplated.
798 LANARKSHIRE.
The L. 321, 6s. lOf d. for 1835, were paid in the following pro-
portions :
To 523 householders, assessed at 2s. 6d. each, . L. 65 7 6
Horses not assessed in land, at 13s. 6d. per horse, - 22 5 6
34611 horse- gangs, at 13s. per horse, 233 13 lOf
L.321 6 lOf
All the Glasgow and Edinburgh coaches which go by the south
road pass along the whole length of the parish upwards of eight
miles, and the Glasgow and Carlisle mail, the Hamilton, Lanark,
and Strathaven coaches run about four miles through it, along the
great London road, each twice a day. A railway has been com-
menced, and is in a fair way of being soon completed for the pur-
pose of connecting the Clydesdale or upper coal-field of Lanark-
shire with the city of Glasgow. The Wishaw and Coltness Rail-
way Company was incorporated for this purpose by an act passed
in 1829. The railway is to run through the estates of Carn-
broe, Jerviston, Carfin, Dalziel, Wishaw, Coltness, Cleland, and
Allanton.
The length of the respective lines of this railway, and the esti-
mated expense, are as follows :
Main line, 10 miles, 7 furlongs, 199 yards, - L. 50,000 0 0
Cleland, .... 6,000 0 0
Rosehall branch, 1 furlong, 80 yards, - 500 0 0
Gillhead do. 100 yards, - - 500 0 0
L. 57,000 0 0
Lowest estimate for bridge at the Camp, - 7,200 0 0
Total expense of Jerviston lot, - - 17,000 0 0
As the work has proceeded, the expense has been found greatly
to exceed the original calculation.
Ecclesiastical State. — Both well and Shotts anciently formed one
parish, which was divided at the Reformation. At the period of
the Revolution 1688, this district seems to have been very desti-
tute of Presbyterian ministers. It is minuted in the Presbytery
books of Hamilton, 6th September 1687 ; " The parishioners of
Bothwell of the Presbyterian persuasion give a call to Mr Robert
Muir, who at the same time is called to three or four other places."
January 24th 1688, " They call Mr Russel, who like Mr Muir,
refuses to come." June 27th 1688, " They call Mr John Orr,
and are opposed by another parish, though Mr Orr was not yet
licensed. He was ordained at Hollowtown (Holytown), 26th Sep-
tember 1688 in face of the congregation." Mr William Cullen
BOTHWELL. 799
of Saughs, grandfather of the celebrated Dr Cullen, was one of
the elders. Mr Orr was translated to Edinburgh, and was suc-
ceeded by Mr William Hamilton, 1709; Mr James Hamilton,
1746; DrBaillie, 1762; Dr M'Culloch, 1767; Dr Gardiner, 22d
April 1802.
The first call after the Revolution on the United Presbytery of
Hamilton and Lanark for a presbyterial visitation to inspect a
church and manse, was by the parish of Bothwell, 26th August
1688, which the Presbytery refused, on the ground that they can-
not legally visit. In compliance, however, with the desire of the
gentlemen commissioners from that p'arish, they appoint Mr Ro-
bert Muir, who was settled at Kilbride, Mr Alexander Young
of Hamilton, and Mr Archibald Hamilton, to meet with the
gentlemen of the parish on Wednesday 27th August, the day
following — " to give them their advice," which they did accord-
ingly.
The church is quite new, having been opened for public worship
in 1833. It is a very fine building, not surpassed, perhaps, by any
country church in Scotland. The style is Gothic, corresponding
with that of the old fabric at the west end of which it is erected.
The walls are supported by buttresses — the windows are large and
finely formed. In the centre, where the old and the new buildings
join, a lofty and elegant tower has been reared, rising to the
height of 120 feet, and forming, perhaps, the finest feature in the
structure. The prospect from the top on all sides is extensive and
magnificent, and it affords a better panoramic view of the county
of Lanark than is to be obtained from any other site* An excel-
lent bell and clock have been placed in the tower. The bell was
provided by parochial assessment, and cost L. 146, 16s. ; the clock,
which cost L. 133, by voluntary subscriptions from the heritors and
inhabitants in the west district of the parish. The length of the
building is 72 feet, the breadth 45. It is seated for about 1200
sitters, and cost L. 4179.
A preaching station has been opened at Holytown. By an ad-
dition to the schoolroom, built and seated by subscription, a com-
modious place of worship has been provided, sufficient to accom-
modate 300 persons. The Rev. D. M'Lean has been chosen by
the sitters to officiate at the station, and the minister of the parish
exchanges pulpits with him once a month, for the purpose of ad-
ministering baptism to the children of the parishioners in that dis-
trict. Subscriptions to a large amount have already been obtain-
800 LANARKSHIRE.
ed for building a new church to the east of Holytown, on a site
which will comprehend within a radius of little more than two miles
a population of four thousand ; all of them upwards of four miles
distant from the parish church ; the majority of them between six
and seven miles.*
A Relief meeting-house was erected at Bellshill, in the centre
of the parish, in 1763. It is seated for about 1000 hearers.
The congregation is drawn from this and neighbouring parishes.
There is a good glebe and manse attached to the establishment;
also a pretty extensive burying ground. The stipend is paid from
the seat-rents and collections.
A place of meeting in connection with the United Secession
was built at Newarthill, in the north-east district of the parish, up-
wards of twenty years ago. It also has a manse attached to it.
The building will contain about 600, and the stipend is also paid
from the seat-rents and collections.
The ecclesiastical statistics of the parish stand thus: — Establish-
ment, 3811; Relief, 1607; Secession, 595 ; doubtful, 309;
Catholics, 118; of no denomination, 64; Old Light Burghers,
22; Episcopalians, 17 ; Unitarians, 17 ; Cameronians, 16; Bap-
tists, 5; total, 6581.
In the village of Bothwell, and in the neighbourhood of the pa-
rish church, there are few Dissenters. They multiply around the
meeting houses for the sake of convenient access to the house of
God, rather than from disaffection to the Establishment. Politics
have, perhaps, added to their numbers, and in some instances have
led to the neglect of religious duties altogether. Divine service
is generally well attended in all the places of worship.
The average number of communicants in the parish church is
650, of whom 248 are male heads of families. The Duke of Ha-
milton is patron of the parish. The stipend was augmented, in
1804, from 6 chalders, 1 boll meal, 1 chalder of bear, L. 46, 18s.
in money, to 12 chalders of victual, whereof 97 bolls of meal, and
95 bolls of barley, and L. 618, 12s. 2d. Scots money for stipend,
with L. 100 money foresaid, for furnishing communion elements;
• The new church has been built, and contains 830 sittings, almost all of which
are let. It is clear of debt, and in the most thriving condition, under the able and
efficient ministry of the Rev. Robert Gillan. The stipend is paid from the seat-rents
and the collections at the church door. The district allotted to the minister at Holy-
town, quoad sacra, is named Holytown parish, and consists of that portion of the old
parish which lies to the east of the Wishaw and Coltness Railway. .It contains al-
ready more than 4000 inhabitants, and the population is rapidly increasing.
BOTHWELL. 801
and in 1821, it was again augmented to 18 chalders, half meal,
half barley, with L. 10 for communion elements.
The manse is large, comfortable, and in good repair. The
glebe consists of above 4 arable acres, but is deficient in the legal
allowance for pasture. There is an orchard of nearly two acres,
but the soil and the situation are not considered favourable for
fruit trees, and the crop is precarious.
This parish has been distinguished by the liberality of its col-
lections and contributions for religious and charitable objects. The
first collection for the British and Foreign Bible Society amount-
ed to upwards of L. 90 ; the second to L. 50 ; the largest, perhaps,
that were made for the society in any country parish in Scotland.
An association was formed in 1816, for aiding religious and bene-
volent institutions in general. In that year upwards of L. 60 were
raised by subscriptions and donations, and distributed among the
Hamilton Auxiliary Bible Society, the Hibernian Society, the
Society for Gaelic Schools, and other institutions of a similar na-
ture. When the Apocrypha controversy took place, the Hamilton
Bible Society was dissolved, and the association at Bothwell was
also allowed to go down.
The average yearly collections at Bothwell, (as distinct from
Holytown parish,) for religious and charitable purposes, may be
stated at L. 50.
Education. — There are three parochial schools in the parish,
one at Bothwell village, another in Holytown, and the third at
Newart Hill. The incumbent in the former has the maximum
salary of two chalders ; the other two half a chalder each. The
school-room at Bothwell is at present in a very wretched condi-
tion, totally inadequate to the number of scholars, and in such bad
repair as to be absolutely injurious to health. In other respects
the school is in a most flourishing condition, under the efficient
superintendence of Mr James Hamilton, the present master.* The
number of scholars may average from 100 to 120. The branches
taught are, English, writing, and arithmetic, geography, Latin, and
Greek. The school-fees for reading are, 3s. per quarter ; for
reading, writing, arithmetic, geography, and English grammar, 4s.
Latin and Greek, 5s. The average number of scholars attending
the school at Holytown is about 20, and at Newart Hill above 100.
There are besides the parish schools, several on private adven-
* An excellent school-room and dwelling-house for the teacher have recently been
built, partly by parochial assessment, and partly by private subscription.
802 LANARKSHIRE.
ture, viz. one at Uddingston ; two at Bellshill ; one at Holy town ;
one at Thankerton colliery ; one at Legbrannock ; and two^ at
Chapel Hall; in all, 11 day schools; with one exception, all
well attended. There are also 7 well attended Sabbath schools
in the parish, which have been sources of great benefit to the chil-
dren in the populous districts where they are established.
The people in general are alive to the benefits of education, and
do not fail to have their children taught English reading, writing,
and arithmetic. Among the children of the colliers, who are fre-
quently moving from one parish to another, a few may be found
destitute of these qualifications.
A parish library was established in 1798. Some of the original
subscribers were tainted with Paine's principles, and several
books were introduced, which were calculated neither to establish
the faith, nor to improve the morals of the readers. On that ac-
count, its dissolution some years ago occasioned no regret to the
serious part of the community. Several families have excellent
private libraries, and new and expensive publications can easily be
procured from the libraries in Hamilton and Glasgow.
There are four libraries connected with the Sabbath schools.
Charities. — In 1577, the Countess of Forfar mortified a sum
to send a boy to the College of Glasgow, " born of honest
parents within the regality of Bothwell, ten years of age, and edu-
cated within the school of Bothwell." One John Scott was sent
in 1777. The terms of the deed have rendered the mortification
useless to those for whose benefit it was intended ; and it is said
that the faculty of the University have appropriated the annual
proceeds to the enlarging of the class-rooms of the College, and
other purposes, which they consider, as the deed requires, to be
" for the glory of God."
James Hamilton, late mason in Glasgow, bequeathed L. 200 to
the parish of Bothwell in 1778, to " remain in the hands of the
session as a sunk stock, the yearly annual interest to be applied
for the purpose of paying the apprentice-fee of one or more ap-
prentices to creditable tradesmen of the city of Glasgow, of the
nomination and appointment of the minister and elders, or the
major part of them," — blood relatives to be preferred. The tes-
tamentary trustee on the estate of James Hamilton became
bankrupt, and only a small part of the sum bequeathed was re-
covered by the kirk-session. The annual interest is applied as
the deed directs.
BOTHWELL. 803
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The poor are supplied from an as-
sessment fixed by the heritors and church-session, who meet once
in six months, according to the statute, examine the poor's roll,
and appoint such a sum to be levied for the ensuing half-year as
the state of the poor requires. One-half is paid by the heritors,
liferenters, and feuars, and the other half by householders and
tenants, according to their several circumstances. The sums col-
lected at the different periods, when a census of the population
was taken, and the proportional increase of the inhabitants at these
several periods, will be seen below.
Years. Souls. Increase. Poor's Stent.
1755, - 1561 - L 42 6 9
1791, . 2707
1801, - 3017
1811, - 3745
1821, - 4844
1831, - 5545
1146 - 73 18 8
310 - 181 6 11
728 - 178 8 11
099 - 331 10 0
701 - 319 0 0
1836, - 6581 - 1036 - 300 11 4
The following sums were paid to the poor in the several dis-
tricts of the parish, from Candlemas to Lammas 1835:
Old
Men. Old Women.
Widows. Children.
Total.
Uddingstone, 3
L.2
5
0 L. 1 10
0
L. 0 0
0 L.2 10
0
L.6
5 0
Both well, 14
8
0
0
6 10
0
5 10
6
3 10
6
23
10 6
Orbiston, 25
6
0
0
15 2
0
9 17
6
2 9
0
38
8 6
Woodhall, 33
12
0
0
12 0
0
14 2
6
4 0
0
42
2 6
Jerviston& 1 _
Carfin, £ '
1
0
0
7 0
0
2 15
0
2 0
0
12
15 0
Lauchope, 5
1
0
0
3 0
0
0
0
1 0
0
6
0 0
Cleland & ? 21
Stevenston $
8
10
0
13 0
0
9 10
0
0 0
0
31
0 0
L.38 15 OL.58 2 0 L.42 15 6 L.15 19 6L.160 1 6
It appears from the above table that there are only three pau-
pers in Uddingstone quarter, which contains a population of 644.
The number is small compared with the other districts of the pa-
rish, and this may be ascribed to various causes. There are few
public-houses in Uddingstone, which may justly be considered the
nurseries of pauperism and demoralization. The inhabitants still
cherish that reluctance to accept of public charity which long
characterized the humblest classes in Scotland. And it may be
added that, from the vicinity of Uddingstone to Bothwell Castle,
many of the villagers are employed by Lord Douglas to work in
the garden and pleasure-grounds, or as farm-servants, and agri-
cultural labourers, which, if they behave themselves soberly and
honestly, secures to them a comfortable subsistence and indepen-
dence of the bounty of others for life. Should they be laid on a
sick bed, their wages are not on that account withheld, and, though
disabled for work by the infirmities of old age, their weekly allow-
804 LANARKSHIRE.
ance, in whole or in part, is continued to the last. No servant of
the family, male or female, and none that could consider them-
selves as permanently engaged in any department of house or field
labour, have ever been known under the character of parish paupers.
The fact deserves to be recorded, and it is easy to conceive the
advantages which would result to society were the example uni-
versally imitated.
The collections at the church-door lie in the hands of the kirk-
session to meet casualties that may occur between the half-yearly
meetings, and the remainder is paid over to the clerk at these
meetings for the maintenance of the regular poor. Owing to the
assessment, the collections are not large. They were in 1833-1834,
L.42, 16s. 4d.; 1834-1835, L. 45, Os. 4d. ; 1835-1836, L. 42,
15s.
Inns, fyc. — There are 37 persons in the parish licensed to sell
tea and tobacco ; 50 to sell ale and spirits ; of whom 8 sell wine.
The ale-houses have the most unhappy effects on the condition
and the morals of the people, and are occasionally the scenes of
riot and Sabbath desecration in the neighbourhood of the collieries
and public works.
Fuel. — Coal abounds in the parish, and is procured at a mode-
rate price.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Great changes have taken place in this parish since the last
Statistical Account was published. The population is more than
doubled. The rental of the surface has increased in an equal pro-
portion, and of the minerals in a much higher ratio. At the for-
mer period, the land " was not let by the acre, but at the slump
of the farm, and the accumulated value estimated." It is now well
enclosed, accurately measured, and the farms are let according to
their estimated value per acre. At the former period, there were
only 50 colliers in the parish ; there are now 263, and the number
is daily increasing. The income from mines and iron-works was
then a mere trifle, it is now supposed to exceed L. 160,000 per
annum. The railroads and the Monkland Canal have opened up
the treasures of this district ; and it would not be easy to prognosticate
the advantages which may yet be derived from these improvements.
A great improvement has also taken place in the style of building,
and the accommodation of the cottages and farm-houses which
have lately been erected.
Drawn up 1836.
Revised April 1840.
UNITED PARISHES OF
WANDELL AND LAMMTNGTOUNE.
PRESBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE.
THE REV. CHARLES HOPE, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — CHALMERS in his Caledonia states the name of Wan-
dell to have been anciently " Quendalor Gwendall," signifying in the
British language the white meadow. The parish was also designated
in former times t( the parochin of Hartside alias Wandle," the for-
mer being the name by which a particular district of it towards
the northern extremity is still known. The same authority also
tells us that the name Lammingtoune, now familiarly abbreviated
into Lamington, was conferred upon the northern division of
this united parish, from a Fleming called Lambinus, one of three
brothers who came over from Flanders, and settled in Scotland
in the reign of David I., and upon whom that monarch con-
ferred the territory which has since, under various modifications,
borne the designation of Lambinsfoun, Lambingtoun, and Lam-
mingtoune. In a charter by David II. to Sir William Baillie
in 1367, the lands are designated as those of " Lambinstoun."
Others contend that Lamington owes its name to one " Lambert,"
and hence was occasionally written, " Lambertstoun." Chalmers
adds that Lambinus had two brothers, Wiscius and Robert, who
gave their names to the two neighbouring parishes, Wistoun and
Robertoun.
Extent and Boundaries. — Wandell, reckoning from the southern
extremity, where it is bounded by Crawfordj extends in a north-
easterly direction to the parish kirk, a distance of about 6 miles.
It is bounded on the south-west and west by the river Clyde, which
separates it from Crawfordjohn and Robertoun, and on the south-
east and north by Lammingtoune, with which it has long been
united. It contains 6099 imperial acres. Lammingtoune again,
proceeding from the same point, viz. the church, where Wandell
terminates, stretches in a north-easterly line along the river, which
LANARK. 3 F
806 LANARKSHIRE.
here flows in that direction, to a point on the farm of Whitehill,
a distance of 3 miles. It is connected on the south and south-
west with Wandell ; bounded by Culter on the east, and separated
from the lower end of Robertoun, and the upper extremity of
Symington on the west and north, by the " flowing Clyde. " It
contains of imperial acres, 5180, being less than Wandell by about
a fifth part of itself. According to Forrest's map, the united parish
contains 21.75 square miles, and there are only 13 parishes of great-
er extent in the whole county of Lanark. It somewhat resembles
an irregular triangle, having its longest and western side washed
by the noble river which gives its name to the district. It extends
where broadest from the junction of Hartside burn, with the
Clyde, to Hatherstane Law and Wingill Bank, two mountain-
ous summits close together on the boundaries of Culter and
Crawford to the south-east, a distance of between 3 and 4 miles ;
narrowing gradually both towards north-east and south-west.
Aspect. — The general character of this parish, like the district
in which it lies, is hilly, or perhaps it may be called mountainous.
There is, however, a tolerable stretch of holm or level ground,
probably not less than 400 acres in extent, chiefly in the north-
eastern corner of Lammingtoune, between the Clyde on the west
and the rising and hilly grounds to the east and south-east.
There is also an extensive field of fertile holm land on the
farms of Hillhouse, Hartside, Woodend, Wandellmill and Lit-
tlegill, all in Wandell. These holm lands, however, and es-
pecially in Lammingtoune, are not a tame dead level, but are
beautifully diversified with rising knolls of considerable height
and base, all under cultivation, and many of them crowned or
gracefully fringed with aged trees of picturesque outline and of
goodly size. These low level grounds extend, at their greatest
breadth, to not more than three-quarters of a mile, till they join the
ascending fields that connect them with the hills. A little way
above Braehead, the hill of Devonshaw almost refreshes its base
in the clear waters of the Clyde ; and along the sloping sides of
most hills in the parish, there are still very visible proofs that in
former and distant times they had been pretty generally laid under
contribution for supply of " the staff of life. " The general aspect
of the hills is agreeable ; they are smooth and dry, without much
heather, and afford easy footing and excellent pasture for sheep.
They are often finely diversified in their swelling sides, and undu-
lating summits; presenting one while a sweeping curvature of out-
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 807
line, and at another point of view a more peaked and conical form ;
with here and there a gray rock peering above the grassy turf.
Many of the hills in the parish are of considerable height, and
from their summits afford beautiful and extensive views. Hill-
house in Wandell, a short way from the kirk, and Lammingtoune
hill to the east of the village, rise about 500 or 600 feet above the
level ground around the manse ; and when we consider that
these are not the highest hills in the parish, that Tinto on
the opposite side of the river, and not more than a mile and a
half in a straight line north-west from the village of Lamming-
toune, is 2306 feet aboye the level of the sea, we may safely state
the highest point in the parish to be not less than 1400 feet above
the tide at Greenock.
Soil. — The soil, as may be supposed, varies considerably in dif-
ferent parts. In the holms or low grounds by the river, where the
Clyde in the lapse of successive generations has evidently varied
greatly in its course, freaking from one confining boundary to an-
other, as if in derision of the power and comforts of man, the
prevailing soil is a deep rich loam or clay, and in some instan-
ces where the deposition has been more scanty, it is sharp, light,
and gravelly. The remainder of the cultivated lands, partly inter-
spersed as knolls amid the holms, and partly rising in gradual as-
cent to the bases of the hills, and of sufficient elevation to be at
all times safe from the sudden swellings of the Clyde, are gene-
rally of a free, rather light, but yet kindly soil ; and the same re-
mark holds good of the greater proportion of those breaks of land
upon the hill sides that have been subjected to the operations of
the plough. The crofts about the village of Lammingtoune, con-
sisting of about 70 acres, are considered the best land in the pa-
rish, although from the circumstance of their being held by so
many small tenants, they cannot well be permitted to rest for any
length of time in pasture. The subsoil of the arable land, with
the exception of the very lowest of the holm lands, is generally
of a porous gravelly nature, and hence frequent showers in the end
of spring and beginning of summer are essential to insure any
thing like heavy crops. Peat moss occurs among the hills, but
not to so great an extent, as in many of the surrounding parishes.
There are also a few bogs, or spouty marshy spots, occurring in
the same localities, but none of a description not to be pasturable
by the woolly race.
Climate and Seasons. — In a district of such general altitude,
808 LANARKSHIRE.
being within twelve miles of the town of Leadhills, the highest in-
habited spot in the kingdom, with the single exception of its neigh-
bour Wanlockhead, — and surrounded on all sides, except the
north, by immense ranges of "hills on hills in close succession,"*
our climate may be expected to be rather damp. We have ac-
cordingly towards the end of autumn, as also frequently in the
months of February and March, successive weeks of rain, so that
the month of April is sometimes pretty far advanced before the
ground is in a fit state to receive the seed, and hence a late harvest
is almost the invariable consequence. Notwithstanding of these re-
marks, I am not sure that we have more rain in this quarter, than
falls in the eastern part of Galloway, and certainly we have not so much
as falls on the west coast of that province, and in many parts of Ayr-
shire. I suspect however, we have more, and severer frost, as also
more snow, than our neighbours to the south and west. In the winter
and spring of 1837-8, the ground was covered pretty deeply with
snow for ten weeks ! The thermometer in the open air at a north-
west window of the manse, was as low one morning about day-light
at 8 o'clock, as 4 degrees above zero, and it no doubt had been lower
during the night. Our summers, however, are sometimes both
dry and very warm, so that the pasture is quite burnt up by the
middle of June. The thermometer is often about 76 ; and in that
season, remarkable for heat and drought, 1826, when we had scarce-
ly a shower from February to September, it was for months gene-
rally about 80°, and sometimes 84°, and 86° in the shade ; and
one day in removing it into the full sun, it rose rapidly to 120 de-
grees. Indeed, from being so encircled by hills, our harvest in
the vale of the Clyde is much earlier than in some districts
greatly lower, but not so well sheltered. We are also less sub-
jected to the evils of lingering frosts in the beginning of sum-
mer, or early hoar frost in autumn, than many of our neighbours,
particularly about Robertoun, and Biggar and Skirling. There is
a fair at Skirling in the middle of June, and another in September
or October, about which seasons it has long been remarked that
potatoes, and even oats, are frequently injured by frost.
The following register, kept by myself, of the farming operations
upon my glebe, will furnish a pretty correct idea of the climate of
Wandell and Lammingtoune :
* The situation of the parish church is only 120 feet lower than the summit of
Arthur's seat.
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE.
809
Began to
Began to
Began to
Finished
Took
sow.
cut hay.
reap.
reaping.
Got all in
field potat.
1824,
August 30.
yjvMAwJX. rrf-wsj*.
Sept. 17.
1825,
^^,
^^
August 20.
August 26.
Sept. 6.
rr.frjfffrrrrfftffj^
1826
June .v.
July 31.
August 12.
1827,
April 14.
Sept. 4.
sept, ia
Oct. 4.
Oct. 17 to 19-
1828,
April 1.
frfmMT.fff
August 26.
^^
Sept. 16.
Oct. 3.
1829,
,r~*^r~~~~
July 7.
August 29.
Sept. 15.
Sept. 25.
Oct. 15.
1830,
March 26.
July 1.
Sept. 6.
~~~~~~~~~
Oct. 18.
Oct. 16.
1831.
March 26.
June 25.
August 12.
August 31.
Sept. 6.
Sept. 26.
1832,
April 5.
June 26.
August 24.
Sept. 14.
Sept. 22.
Oct. 15.
1833,
March 25.
July 5.
August 30.
Sept. 10.
Sept. 20.
Oct. 2.
1834,
March 20.
~«~~~~~.
August 18.
August 28.
Sept. 15.
Sept. 29.
1835,
March 28.
July 2.
August 24.
Sept. 17.
Sept. 25.
Oct. 20.
1836,
April 15.
July 4.
Sept. 16.
Oct. 27.
Nov. 8.
Oct. 24.
1837,
April 12.
,,~,,~~«.
Sept. 2.
Sept. 18.
Sept. 25.
Oct. 10.
1838,
April 12.
.~~~~~*
August 12.
Oct. 4.
Oct. 13.
*~~~~v**v.
1839,
April 6.
~~~~~~.
Sept- 13.
Sept. 21.
Oct. 1.
~WV~W~OT«
1840,
March 20.
,
The earliest period at which I ever planted early potatoes in
my garden was the 17th of March 1834, and the latest at which
I ever put into the ground a first crop of the same kind, was the 19th
of April 1836. The earliest time I ever had new potatoes of my
own raising was on the 7th July 1834 ; and the latest period be-
fore the same root was fit for using, was the 1st of August 1836 ;
a season when every article of garden produce was extremely late
in this part of the country. The present spring, 1840, is the
driest and warmest that I remember ever to have seen, not except-
ing 1826, which as yet it greatly resembles. Since the 15th of
February, we have had only a very few showers. The thermome-
ter has been steadily and unusually high, and consequently vege-
tation is nearly a month more advanced than usual. Fruit trees,
such as apples, pears, plums, and cherries, have blossomed
most luxuriantly in the garden of the manse, and many of them
are beginning to shed very rapidly their honours in the dust !
On one or two trees, both plums and apples, and Jargonelle
pears, are beginning fairly to set in the fruit. Yesterday, May
4th 1840, the thermometer in the shade and open air was nearly
78°, at two o'clock p. M. The lilac and laburnum are beginning
to open and to shew their beautiful tints. Gean trees and hawk-
berry or bird-cherry, are in full blow around the manse, and the
old planes behind it have been in leaf for a week past.
Hydrography^ #c. — There are many fine springs in this parish.
The most celebrated is that dedicated to St Ninian, on the left
bank of Lammingtoune burn, a little above the village. From
this fountain the villagers used formerly to draw water, but of late
there have been no fewer than five wells sunk by various in-
810 LANARKSHIRE.
habitants of the town of Lammingtoune, some of them supplied
with pumps, and all affording excellent water. Both at the manse
and school-house, this accommodation has been supplied by the
heritors.
Rivers and Burns. — The river Clyde sweeps along the whole
extent of these parishes on the west, keeping a direction from
south-west to north-east ; and from its rise in the mountainous
range on the east of Crawford, near Tweedshaws in the parish of
Tweedsmuir, to where it passes the manse of this parish, it has a
run of at least seventeen miles. Like all rivers in mountainous
districts, it is liable to sudden spates and overflowings of the low
grounds on its margin. One of these spates occurred in the month
of January 1830, which was attended with a lamentable loss of
human life in this very locality ; — two young men, with two ser-
vant girls, to whom they were said to have been betrothed, having
perished in a rash attempt to cross the river in a dark and stormy
night, at the ford near the old castle of Lammingtoune. The ac-
cident created a great sensation in the neighbourhood, and, as
many individuals had previously lost their lives in attempting to cross
the Clyde in this vicinity, the public attention was roused to the ne-
cessity of having some safe mode of communication established be-
tween the opposite sides of the river, there being none from Clyde's
Bridge on the south, to Wolfclyde on the north, a distance of about
nine miles. Accordingly, an elegant and substantial bridge of two
arches, each 53 feet in span, of a hard liver-coloured stone from
Robertoun, and costing upwards of L.900, was in 1836 thrown
across the Clyde between that parish and Wandell, a little to the
south of the 34th mile-stone from Edinburgh, on the road leading
from the metropolis through this parish, to Abington and Crawford,
on the Dumfries road, either by Moffat or Thornhill.
There is a deep pool in the Clyde, a short way below the old
castle, where a man of the name of Johnstone perished long ago,
and which still goes by the name of " Jbhnstone's Pool."
There are several tributary streams in the parish, all descend-
ing from the hills on the south-east, and emptying themselves
into the Clyde on the west. Some of them, indeed, are mere
rivulets, others are of such size as to be dignified with the name
of burns. Of these, Hackwood, Wandell, Hartside, and Lamming-
toune burns, are the largest. All these streams cross the high road,
and it was only about eighteen years ago, that the three last men-
tioned had arches or pends thrown over them !
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 811
Mineralogy. — Neither coal, lime, nor freestone is to be found
in this parish. The first is brought from Rigside in Douglas,
or from Ponfeigh in Carmichael. Lime of good quality is to be had
at Newton of Wistoun, about four miles distant, on the property
of Mr Baillie of Lammingtoune. Freestone is got from Stonehill
in Carmichael, or from Carnwath ; and slates can only be had either
at Stobo in Tweeddale, or at Glenochar in Crawfordmuir, fifteen
miles distant. Porphyry prevails throughout Lammingtoune, and
also on the farm of Hillhouse, in Wandell. The transition, however,
from porphyry to greywacke, takes place at Hartside burn, a mile
to the south of the manse ; and the latter runs throughout the re-
mainder of Wandell. Scots pebbles are frequently found in the
brows and channel of the Clyde ; and some fine large specimens,
agates, I believe, were dug out of a well at Townfoot, near
the manse, last autumn ; some of those are very beautiful, and
would make fine seals. Lead was once attempted to be wrought
on the hill of Snickertknees, on the farm of Birnock in Wandell,
but the operation was never, I believe, attended with much suc-
cess.
Zoology. — Deer are said to have existed in abundance in this pa-
rish, in former times. Hence the name of Hartside, still applied
to a portion of what is now denominated Wandell. A stray animal
of this species was said to have been seen upon the hills of Lam-
mingtoune, about fifteen years ago. Hares are plentiful, and
black-game, grouse, and partridges are tolerably abundant. Otters
are said to have abounded at one time, and may be met with oc-
casionally still. Hence the name of a farm in Lammingtoune,
Otterburns. Foumarts and weasels, and hedgehogs, and bats, are
often seen. Foxes may occasionally have been seen, but they find
no cover in the parish. Adders, if they exist here at all, are not
numerous. Herons, coots, snipes, and wild-ducks, frequent the
low-grounds and bed of the river. Crows are plentiful, and though
there is no rookery within the parish, they find abundant shelter in
the woods of Bagbie on the opposite side of the river, in Robertoun.
The magpie and hawk are also here, but they are sought out and
destroyed, as being hurtful to game, by eating the eggs and car-
rying off the young. Squirrels are seen in the Culter planta-
tions, on the eastern boundary of Lammingtoune. Rats are nu-
merous, chiefly the large Muscovy kind, which have in a great
measure, however, extirpated the native and smaller Scots rat.
Birds of all kinds are numerous. A goatsucker and a kings-
81 2 LANARKSHIRE.
fisher were shot in the parish last summer ; and all the follow-
ing birds have been seen in the parish, and most of them usu-
ally frequent the shrubbery and young trees about the manse.
These are the lapwing, the mavis., (for I prefer the Scottish name
for the Scottish philomel,) the missel- thrush, linnets of all sorts,
the fieldfare, chaffinch, bullfinch, goldfinch, common wren, the
redbreast, titmouse, lark, house and hedgesparrow, the blackbird,
the land-rail or corn-craik, which last, though rarely seen, is yet a
constant yearly visitant. A few starlings have also been occasion-
ally seen, and some were captured for pets. Nor must I omit to
mention in the last place, that " sweet messenger of spring," the
cuckoo, which usually pays us his annual and truly welcome visit
about the last week of April, or the first in May.
Trout of various kinds is found in the several burns already enu-
merated; and the Clyde especially, for several miles, both above and
below Lammingtoune, is deservedly reckoned one of the very best
rivers in the kingdom for angling, — the banks being open and free
of wood, — the trout not only abundant, but a great proportion of
them of that fine flesh-coloured kind known by the name of
Lochinvar trout in the south, and of Lochleven in the east, of Scot-
land. Many of them are of a large size, weighing a pound or
more ; and I have seen one that measured two feet in length, —
but it was of the white or common species.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
I have never met with any history of this parish, either printed
or in manuscript, nor am laware that any such, ancient or mo-
dern, is in existence. Probably some interesting particulars re-
lating to it might be found inthe archives of the family at Bo-
nington, as well as in those of the Applegirth and Douglas fami-
lies. I have never heard of any particular map or plan of the
parish, though I have little doubt that the heritors may be in
possession of plans of their respective estates.
Eminent Characters. — Of all the celebrated names connected
with this parish, by far the first is that of Sir William Wallace.
Robertson in his Ayrshire families, tells us that he married,
about 1296, the heiress of Lammingtoune, Marion Braidfoot,
and by her became possessed of that ancient barony ; and that
the fruit of this union was an only daughter, who married William
Baliol or Baillie of Hoprig and Penston, and thus gave rise to the
Baillies of Lammingtoune. (See Nesbit's Heraldry.) It is said by
others again, that the Scottish hero left no legitimate children.
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 813
Be this as it may, it is allowed by all, that he became possessed
of the estate of Lammingtoune, and that, through relationship
with him, it soon after came into the family of^Baillie, — as appears
by a charter of the lands of " Lambinstoun," granted in favour
of Sir William Baillie by King David II. of date 27th January
1357-68.
Many highly respected names occur in the long list of this
honourable race. The chief of the family seems generally to have
enjoyed the favour of his sovereign, and, with but few exceptions,
uniformly bore the honour of knighthood, which in those times carried
along with it a much higher rank than it does at the present day.
William Baillie of Provand, cousin to the then propriet o r of the estate,
was appointed to the benefice of Lamminytoune proper, in 1557, and
was the first incumbent of it after the Reformation. At that pe-
riod, a certain proportion of the Lords of Council and Session were
chosen from among the clergy; and in 1566, the minister of Lam-
mingtoune was called to the Bench by the title of Lord Provand, and
subsequently was raised to the presidency of the Supreme Court ;
but, notwithstanding, continued to hold the cure of the parish till
his death in 1593. About the middle of the seventeenth century,
the proprietor of the barony was also named Sir William Baillie.
He was a true churchman, and an elder in the kirk-session of his
own parish, whose meetings he very generally attended, and seems
to have taken an active part in providing for the wants of the poor,
and in the general business of the parish He frequently re-
presented the presbytery of the bounds, as their ruling elder in the
General Assembly. Being also a staunch monarchical man, he
engaged in the Royal cause in the troublous times immediately
preceding the martyrdom of the unfortunate Charles the First.
For this praiseworthy act of a loyal subject, the kirk-session,
either overawed by " the pressure from without" or in-
fluenced by a time-serving sycophancy, at their sederunt of the
" 25th January 1649," thought fit in their wisdom to " discharge
the Laird of Lammingtoun from being ane elder in the Session, for
his accession to the late unlawful engagement, qll he make satis-
faction ;" and at a subsequent meeting they chose another member
of their body, " Archibald Baillie of Whitehill," as elder in room
of Sir William to the presbytery of Biggar, by whom, for the same
reason, he was in like manner returned as their ruling elder to the
General Assembly.
The Rev. David Blinshall, ordained to this cure in 1708, lived
814 LANAUKSHIRE.
to upwards of a hundred years of age. The late Rev. Dr Blin-
shall of Dundee, his son, was a native of Lammingtoune ; as
was the late eminent Professor Jardine of Glasgow, a native of
Hillhouse in Wandell, — and a large flat tombstone in the kirkyard
marks the spot where his ancestors repose. The late incumbent,
the Rev. Thomas Mitchell, was an accomplished scholar, and was
a candidate for the Greek chair in the University of Edinburgh,
at the time when the late excellent Professor Dalzell was ap-
pointed to it. Mr Mitchell published a treatise upon the Atone-
ment, in answer to the work upon that subject by the Rev. Dr
M'Gill of Ayr. His eldest son, Dr John Mitchell, a native of
the parish, is at present Senior Physician to the Royal Infirmary
of Manchester, and esteemed a man eminent in his profession.
It may be added, that the young laird of Lammingtoune, Alex-
ander Cochrane Baillie, Esq. just returned from his travels in
Greece, and the east of Europe, has this spring published a
volume of poems called " The Morea."
Land-owners. — There are, at the present day, only two land-
owners connected with this parish, namely, Lord Douglas, the sole
proprietor of Wandell ; and Alexander Cochrane Wishart Baillie,
Esq. sole proprietor of Lammingtoune. The former old parish
and barony was held, in the time of King Alexander II., by
one styled " William de Hertisheved" (since Hartside), sheriff
of Lanark in 1225, (see Chart. Glasg.), and subsequently in the
reign of David II. by " William de Gardin or Jardin," an-
cestor of the Jardines of Applegirth in Annandale, in whose fa-
mily it continued till the time of Charles the First, when it was
acquired by William, Marquis of Douglas, who conferred it upon
his son Archibald, Earl of Angus, created in 1651, Earl of Or-
mond, Lord Bothwell, and Hartside, with remainder to the heir-
male of his second marriage. The only son of that second mar-
riage was Archibald, second Earl of Ormond, who, in 1661, was
by a new patent created Earl of Forfar, Lord Wandale and
Hartside. His son Archibald, second Earl of Forfar, being
mortally wounded in the King's cause at the battle of Sheriffmuir,
died on the 8th December 1715, without issue, when the barony
of Wandell or Hartside reverted to the head of his house, Archi-
bald, his cousin, created in 1703, Duke of Douglas, &c. ; and it is
now held by his Grace's grand nephew, Lord Douglas. The farm
of Littlegill in Wandell, belonging formerly to a family of the
WANfKLL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 815
name of Bailzie or Baillie, was purchased by the late Lord
Douglas only about sixty-five years ago.
The barony of Lammingtoune, being by the deed of entail
destined to heirs general, was in the course of the last century held
by no fewer than three females, who, marrying into other wealthy
families, gave occasion to the old castle or mansion-house being
left deserted, and the estate being generally much neglected. The
last of these heiresses of Lammingtoune was Elizabeth, eldest
daughter of the late Lord President Dundas, who married Sir John
Lockhart Ross of Balnagown. Lady Ross Baillie died in 1817,
and was interred in the kirk of Lammingtoune, where, opposite to
the pulpit, a marble monument infixed in the wall, is inscribed to
her memory, — a plain white panneled tablet and urn, upon a black
ground. Her son, Sir Charles Ross, had a daughter, Matilda,
by his first marriage, who married Sir Thomas Cochrane, R. N.,
and she dying, her eldest son, now Alexander Cochrane Baillie,
Esq. succeeded, in right of his mother, to the estate of Lamming-
toune, last held by his great-grandmother, Lady Ross Baillie, as
above noticed. The chief of the Baillies, however, does not ap-
pear to have all along been the sole proprietor of what, at the pre-
sent day, is known as the lands and barony of Lammingtoune. On
the contrary, a part of it was sold by Sir William Baillie, in 1611,
to a person named John Donaldson. These lands were what is
termed " Run-rig lands" lying up and down, and interspersed in
ridges or small allotments over the estate. The late Lady Ross
Baillie repurchased these lands, known as the Donaldson or Connal
lands, from Alexander Connal, great-grandson of John Donald-
son, in 1772; since which, they have merged so completely into
the general property, that all traces of their localities or original
boundaries have been lost. Tradition, however, says, they con-
sisted of " every ninth step and tree, hill and dale of the lands
and barony of Lammingtoune." I have seen a precept of dare con-
stat of these lands to John Donaldson, of date 1684.
Besides this Donaldson family, however, it appears, from the Ses-
sion Records, that there were, in the seventeenth century, other pro-
prietors in Lammingtoune inferior to the " Laird." Thus we find,
" April 12th 1658," upon " ane supplication by Thomas Baillie of
Touneheid of Lammingtoune, for leave to set up ane seat next unto
the minister his seat," the session having " removed" the petitioner,
u and taken his desyre into yr consideratione," at last " allows and
gives his requestto the said Thomas Baillie, being ane heritourmih-
816 LANARKSHIRE, M
in the parosch." We find one of the elders, too, regularly termed
" Whitehill" upon the session roll, even when " Lammingtoune"
himself was present, while all the other elders are entered in their
own names in the minutes. And that this Whitehill must have
been a person of some note, appears from the fact of his being re-
turned elder to the General Assembly, at the time when Sir Wil-
liam Baillie was discharged on account of his accession to some
engagement in behalf of his suffering Prince, Charles I. And,
again, at a meeting of heritors for the erection of a school,
June ] 5, 1 697, " there were present of the heritors, the Laird of
Lammingtoune, the Laird of Littlegill, the tutors of John Donald-
son, portioner in Lammingtoune, as also the minister, who was
clothed with a commission for Mr John Watson, portioner in Lam-
mingtoune," — and yet further, on this point, at a meeting of he-
ritors for the poor, in 1699, the Laird of Lammingtoune himself
appears with a commission from the same " Mr John Watson,"
who, in the close of the same minute, is twice expressly designated
as « Laird Watson."
Parochial Registers. — The oldest parochial register at present
known to be in existence, commences with " the first sessione
holden be Mr John Crawfurd," bearing date at " Lammingtoune
Kirk, 6th of February 1645." That there must, however, have
been one of a prior date, is evident from the following extract
from the minute of that sederunt ! " Ordered the sessione books to
be brought against the next day." It is much to be regretted that
those sessione books here ordered, have been lost, and not less so
that those which still exist are rendered almost useless from the
careless way in which they have been preserved, — being not only
tattered and torn, but in many parts totally illegible from damp?
and falling to pieces on being handled ever so delicately. From
what is entire, however, it is evident that not only the volume
mentioned, (which ends with October 16, 1660, embracing nearly the
whole of the incumbency of Mr John Crawford, who was ejected
by the strong hand of arbitrary power in 1662,) but likewise the
volume commencing about 1695 and ending 1709, as also the
next, beginning 1715 and ending 1722, have all been carefully kept,
and especially the one first mentioned, The next in succession
commences in 1738 and ends 1753; another then commences, and
ends in 1768. The sixth begins at the induction of the late in-
cumbent, the Rev. Thomas Mitchell, in September 1774, and ends
with 1813. A great proportion of this volume is distinctly written
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 8 IT
out, and is yet in tolerable preservation. Part of the register of
baptisms, however, is confused and ill-written, particularly between
1818 and 1821. In all these registers, the birth is seldom en-
tered, merely the baptism ; and few marriages or deaths are
recorded. A new register and session book was purchased soon
after my induction, in which all births, marriages, deaths, and
burials, in the united parish, are carefully entered.
Antiquities. — In this respect the parish of Wandell and Lam-
mingtoune is by no means uninteresting. In camps especially, it
is most abundant. Three of these, quite adjoining one another,
are very distinctly marked out on Whitehill, in the north-east ex-
tremity of Lammingtoune, all of very considerable dimensions, the
largest being 70 yards in length, by 40 in breadth, with a ditch
5 yards in width. These are supposed to have been of Roman
construction. On the top of Starthope hill in Wandell, and near-
ly opposite to the mansion-house of Hardington or Bagbie in Ro-
bertoun, there is a ring of earth and stones atout 20 yards in dia-
meter, supposed from its form to be the remains of a British camp.
Another of these military stations is to be met with at Hartside, in
the form of an oblong 30 yards by 20, having a rampart on all sides.
On the south, and west, and north, it is protected by a rather steep
brink, and on the east by a deep ditch. This, from its square-like
form, has been supposed to have been of Roman construction. A
circular camp is next to be found on Devonshaw or Woodend hill,
about the centre of Wandell, and opposite the village of Robertoun.
This is said to contain more than three-fourths of a Scots acre of
land, and has a rampart and ditch. It is supposed, like other circular
ones, to have been of British origin. These camps are too nume-
rous, however, to admit of being minutely described in a brief no-
tice like this. There is one on Braehead, another pretty entire
near the farm-house of Cauldchapel, said to be 60 yards in diame-
ter, and a second on the south of the same dwelling-house. All
these three are circular. Close to Cauldchapel, also, there is
a moat or tumulus about 20 yards in diameter, and about 5 feet in
height; and there was formerly a smaller one near to it; which,
however, was demolished, when several human bones were cast out.
But the most interesting and remarkable curiosity of the kind, per-
haps, in the whole parish, is that on Arbory hill, which rises about
500 feet in a sort of conical form, above the level of the Clyde,
in the upper and most southerly point of Wandell. This hill has
been fortified on the top ; and on ascending to it, the traveller first
818 LANARKSHIRE,
comes to a broad ditch of about 3 yards, with a rampart. At
about 6 yards within this rampart, there is a second ditch
of 2 yards or so in width, and within it a mound of about 10
feet in height. At the distance of probably 16 yards still farther
up the hill, is found a ring or circle of stones, measuring, it is
said, 9 yards in thickness, and 4 feet in height, and enclosing a
space of ground in its natural state, of about 44 yards in diameter.
This has been held by some to have been a military station of the
Britons ; while others are inclined to view it as an ancient Druidi-
cal temple or place of worship.
Wailing Street, as it has been called, entered the parish near to
the base of Arbory hill, and passed Cauldchapel and Wandell-
mill, where it may still be traced ; but farther down than this, it
cannot be followed with certainty. An urn was not very long
ago, dug up by the plough near Cauldchapel, and several more
are reported to have been discovered near Wandell-mill, at the
time the present high road was made about seventy years ago.
Sir William Wallace is reported to have once encamped on
the heights above Wandell-mill, where he entrapped and cut off a
party of English.
Ancient Buildings. — It is said there were formerly several tow-
ers or strong buildings in this parish, the scanty dilapidated ruins
of which are now all that remain. Whether and where the
Jardines ever had a residence in Wandell, is now a matter of
the purest conjecture. Within the bounds of this ancient barony,
however, at the base of Devonshaw hill, to the west of the high-
road, and nearly opposite to the snug little village of Robertoun,
lies in a graceful curvature of the Clyde, a baylike nook of land of
about 30 acres in extent, called the Bovver Park, diversified with two
or three rising knolls, having its border washed on all sides by the
river, except on the south-east, where it is bounded by the public
road running along by the foot of the Hartside hills, and ia this
way having altogether a sort of peninsular form. Upon one of
these little eminences in the south-west corner of this little territory,
and with its rocky base shelving into the Clyde, stand the ruins of
the Bower of Wandell. Little of it, indeed, now remains, nor does
it appear from its outlines ever to have been of any great extent,
though probably it was built with some attention to security.
King James V., when tired of the cares of the state and trammels
of a court, is said to have pursued his favourite sport of deer stalk-
ing, among the once woody hills and glens of Hartside. This
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 819
little demesne is truly a lovely spot even in its present naked and
neglected state. Were it crowned with a tasteful cottage, its knolls
clothed with the fragrant birch, the flowering hawthorn, and the
clustering rowan, with a due proportion of more lasting trees, — were
its watered borders fringed with the alder, the willow, and the po-
plar,— and its remaining low and fertile spots laid out in well dispos-
ed gardens and shrubberies, with here and there a grassy enclosure,
—it might soon be said of Wandell Bower, as was once said of Fa s-
cally by the distinguished tourist Pennant, — " this place is more
like the favourite haunt of faeries than the abode of mortals !"
In Lammingtoune, there are at Whitehill the remains of some
place of strength and consequence ; and in the wild but beauti-
fully romantic glen of Keygill, near the head of that stream, and
at the very base of a steep and lofty hill named Windgill bank,
stand the ruins of Windgate house. This house was built at a
remote period by the laird of Lammingtoune, at a time when a
feud subsisted between him and the laird of Symington. The lat-
ter had erected a building on the side of Tinto, called Fatlips
Castle, which, being directly opposite, completely overlooked, by
its elevated situation, the castle of Lammingtoune, the residence
of his rival laird. It is recorded that he sent a taunting mes-
sage to Lammingtoune^ in no very delicate terms, to the effect
that his wife could not go out of doors but her motions might be
observed from Fatlips ; which so incensed the chief of the Bail-
lies, thaf*" he vowed that ere that day twelvemonth, he would
have a house for himself and his family, where his wife's motions
could neither be watched by Symington nor any one else, and
where, on looking out, he should be able to call everything that he
saw his own !" The result was, the building of a residence in
Keygill glen, about four miles from the village, and in the very
wildest and most remote outskirts of the estate of Lammingtoune.
The chief residence of the laird, however, was, notwithstanding,
still at the castle or tower of Lammingtoune. It is somewhere
about a hundred years since it was regularly occupied by the fa-
mily. I have been told by some old persons in the parish, about
the time when I came here, that they recollected having seen a
roasting-jack and some other piece of furniture, — I think a large
spinning wheel, in the kitchen of the old castle, and that a woman
was employed to keep fires in it during winter, long after it had
ceased to be the family residence. It is of unknown antiquity,
though generally supposed to have been erected before the time of
820 LANARKSHIRE.
Wallace, between 500 and 600 years ago ; and it might have, stood
as many years more, if we may only judge by the extreme thickness
and rock-like durability of the remaining walls. But what time had
spared, man barbarously destroyed ! It was dismantled about sixty
years since by orders of the factor upon the estate, the proprietor,
Lady Ross Baillie, being totally ignorant of the contemplated
work of demolition, until it had proceeded too far to be remedied.*
Some of the carved freestones may still be seen as lintels to the
doors of such buildings, upon the farms in its neighbourhood !
A part of the west gable, with the arched window of the large
dining-room in it entire, and a part of the north side wall, of the
original height, and also a portion of the wall opposite, still re-
main, to brave " the pelting fury and pitiless storms" of a variable
and tempestuous climate. It is said, whether truly or not I can-
not tell, that as, by the deed of entail, the proprietor of the estate
must assume the sirname and bear the arms of Baillie, so he is also
bound by the same deed to keep up, in state and repair, the man-
sion house or place of Lammingtoune, as anciently designated,
Be this as it may, we of the parish do most earnestly hope to see
the day when the present young proprietor of this estate, with a
Scottish spirit, and pride of ancestry, will restore the long dormant
honours of that ancient family, which his cultivated mind and po-
lished manners so well fit him to represent, — by soon either re-
building the castle itself, or erecting upon one or other of the many
charming situations which Lammingtoune affords, a mansion
worthy of the splendid property to which a kind Providence has
called him. I may add, that few properties are more capable
of improvement; and certainly no parish in the kingdom has
greater cause to deplore the accumulated evils which spring from
the total want of resident land-owners.
Historical Notices. — Part of the Highlanders who took up arms
in 1715, in behalf of the unfortunate Prince James Stuart,
amounting to about 400, taking fright on approaching the borders
of England, and refusing to follow their commander, the Earl of
Winton, on his entrance into that kingdom, — resolved on returning
* When the accounts of this demolition reached Bonington, near Lanark, her
ladyship, as might well have been anticipated, was most indignant at the presump-
tuous but well-meant doings of her servant, and instantly despatched a messenger to
Lammingtoune to stop procedure ; but alas ! it was too late, — the roof was off, and
part of the building blown up by gunpowder! The worthy factor thought it would be
most profitable to his employer, to make a quarry of it, out of which to erect stables
and by?~es !
WANDELL AND LAMMING TOUNE. 821
directly into their own country ; and having in company reached
Moffat, they separated about Errickstane, into two parties of near-
ly equal numbers ; one division resolving to pursue their way
through Crawford-muir towards Douglas, while the remaining
200 took a more easterly course, and crossed the hills in the
direction of Lammingtoune. Two countrymen of Annandale
observing their movements, and conjecturing whither they were
bound, hastened it is said by night to Lammingtoune, and appriz-
ed the people of their approach. " Early next morning, the 2d of
November, the lairds of Lammingtoune, Nisbet, Glespine, Moss-
castle ; a Bailie Vallance from Biggar, a Mr Mitchell, factor to
the laird of Hartree ; a Mr Baillie, in Moat, and other gentle-
men, with a great multitude of the surrounding parishes, as well
as the men of Lammingtoune, forthwith assembled, both horse and
foot, all of them armed as well as the hurry of the moment
would permit." It is said they found the poor Highlanders in dif-
ferent parties, among the hills aboYe Lammingtoune village; and that,
had the latter only made a determined resistance, the greater part
of the Clydesdale men would soon have fled, as " the hands of
many of them were shaking with fear ;" but the poor strangersbe-
ing worn out with cold, hunger, and fatigue, were soon induced to
surrender, and being collected to the number, as already stated,
of about 200, they were driven before the country people, (who
were armed with every sort of rude implement, and had now, when
all danger was past, recovered a wonderful degree of courage,)
and were at last safely cooped up for a day and night in the pa-
rish kirk, and next day marched off to Lanark.
III. — POPULATION.
The population in 1755 was 599
in 1792 417
By the Government census in 1801 375
1811 365
1821 359
1831 382, males 179, females 203.
The following table exhibits a correct list of the population of
the united parish in April 1840 :
Number of persons under 15 years of age, . . 131
from 15 to 30 ... 66
30 to 50 . . . 78
Number of persons from 50 to 70 . ,., v . 38
above 70 .... 18
Yearly average of births in the parish for the last 7 years, 8
illegitimate children for last 10 years,
deaths, . f ; "'.' . <: V, 4
marriages, ." .' .- »i «. H
burials, . . • ' 5%
LANARK. 3G
822 LANARKSHIRE.
Number of bachelors and widowers above 50 years of age, 4
women above 45 years, . . ..* . 22
lame in the parish, there is 1 female.
Present population of Wandell, t, ».. ; males, 49
females, 56
—105— families, 17
Lammingtoune village, males, 52
females, 75
—127— families, 36
Country, . . males, 51
females, 48
— 99— families, 16
Total, 331 69
Average number of children in each family, 5
Rental. — Wandell is valued in the cess books at L. 1300 Scots,
real rental, L. 1396 Sterling; Lammingtoune is valued in the same
at L. 1300 Scots, real rental, L. 1843, 10s. It is curious to note
the fluctuations of the value of landed property at successive periods.
For instance, the rental of Lammingtoune estate in 1656 was
L. 4000 Scots, or L. 333 Sterling. In 1775, it was L. 448, 5s. 2d.
In 1792, Mr Mitchell states it at between L. 700 and 800, and in
1824, the then factor, Mr Stobie, stated it to me, on raising my
process of augmentation, at L. 2250.
There are two uninhabited houses in Wandell, and the same
number in Lammingtoune, besides the new inn not quite completed.
There are in the parish, 1 blacksmith, 1 tailor, whose wages per
day, when he goes out to work in families, are Is. 4d. besides vic-
tuals ; 3 shoemakers, 4 weavers, 2 wrights. There are two shops
in the village, where " tea, sugar, tobacco and snuff" are sold, with
a variety of other small groceries ; and loaf bread is retailed in
them, from the bakers in Biggar. There has long been an inn,
or rather public-house in the village, at which carriers frequently
put up ; and, though contrary to act of Parliament, the keeper
of the toll-bar at Hartside, a short distance to the south of the inn,
has always a license to sell whisky and ale. There are now no corn-
mills in the parish, so that it lies under the disadvantage of having
to send all grain either to Culter or Kobertoun, three miles distant.
Character of the People. — The people, generally speaking, are
healthy and robust, of good size and of active habits; and not pe-
culiarly subject to any particular ailment or disease, if we except
perhaps rheumatism, here commonly called the pains. They
are, on the whole, cleanly, orderly in their household economy,
sober, temperate, peaceable, industrious, and neighbourly and oblig-
ing to one another. They are much less given to intemperance
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 823
now than formerly; and withal, I must call them an honest people ;
for a petty theft is scarcely ever heard of in the parish.
Amusements. — Lammingtoune, so long as it enjoyed a resident
proprietor, was famous for its races, which are even celebrated in
ancient ballad. They were patronised by the " Laird, " took place
in the level holms near the Castle, and are said to have been attend-
ed by the first gentry in the country. Cock-fighting also was
long kept up here.* But though horse-racing and cock-fighting
have long disappeared, the customs and amusements common to
the country people of Scotland are regularly kept up by the inha-
bitants of these ancient parishes. Curling is the chief amusement
in a frosty winter ; and a striking peculiarity to this and many of
the neighbouring parishes is, that females have their bonspielor con-
test at curling as well as the males. The wives are matched
against the unmarried women, and each party has a man in at-
tendance to lend an arm to such as may be afraid of slipping on the
ice at the time of delivering the curling-stone ! It is very amusing
sometimes to witness the scientific skill and prowess displayed by
these female combatants. In the spring and summer evenings, the
young men of the village frequently assemble on the old school-
green to try their skill at the exhilarating game of throwing quoits ;
and a handsome silver medal (presented to the parish by Dugald
Campbell, Esq.) is annually played for. The curlers have also a
silver medal, purchased by subscription, and played for in like
manner.f
The great proportion of the inhabitants in the country district
of the parish are exemplary in their attendance on religious ordi-
nances, as are also many of the families about the village ; al-
though, I am sorry to have occasion to add, there are a few be-
longing to the latter, who are shamefully negligent of that ex-
press command of our holy religion, " never to neglect the assem-
* I have in my possession an old manuscript poem, called " Lammingtoune Cock-
fight," written in 1701, " be John Welsh, maker and composer of the same." It has
little merit, and is somewhat in the style of Colville's Scots Hudibras.
f At all these games the utmost decorum and good fellowship are strictly observed,
and any thing like quarrelling or angry disputes is seldom, if ever, heard of. Matters
were less decorously carried on in former times, as will appear from the following mi-
nute of the kirk- session of28th January 1656 : " The sessione considering ane super-
stitious and abominable custome yt hes continued still in this paroche, That men and
women uses promiscuously to play at the foot-ball upon Fasting's even ; and also consi-
dering what evill and sadde consequences hes followed yrf! upon, viz. uncleannesse,
drunkennes, and fighting, they doe unanimously discharge and inhibite thesd old su-
perstitious and abominable practise. And hereby macks and ordaines, that whatso-
ever persone or persones shall contravein this present acte, they shall be censured with
the censure of the kirk. And the minister be desyred to publish yre present acte out
of pulpitt y" next Lord's day, that none pretende ignorance."
824 LANARKSHIRE,
bling of ourselves together." There is one very striking circum-
stance which I cannot pass by without here noticing, and it is not pe-
culiar to this parish, but common to the whole district ; namely,
the extreme paucity of young persons, below the age of puberty,
who are to be seen on Sabbath in any place of public worship.
The excuse that I have received for this from the lower classes
having families is, that they " cannot afford to give their children
two suits of clothes at once, and are ashamed to send or take them
to the kirk in rags." This is but a very lame apology for any
Christian parent to offer.
Poaching of game has of late received a complete check, by
the vigilance of a resident game-keeper. River poaching, however,
is carried on to a great extent, chiefly by people coming from a
distance, with the double rod, &c:
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — The tenants of this parish are an industrious
class of men ; many of them particularly so. The rotation ge-
nerally observed in cropping, is, first oats, then potatoes or tur-
nips, then bear or barley along with rye-grass and clover, for a
crop of hay in the succeeding year. Both red and white clover
seed are sown ; a larger proportion of the latter is used when the
ground is intended to be laid down in permanent pasture. There
is no undivided common in either Wandell or Lammingtoune.
Wood. — The only plantation occupies about a rood of ground
behind Causeway House, on the side of the old Roman way, or Wat-
tling Street, about the middle of Wandell ; — this was planted with
larches about twenty-five years ago. Indeed, as to wood of any de-
scription, the whole of this fine old barony is naked in the extreme,
although a great proportion of it might be planted with immense
advantage. So satisfied of this are its intelligent tenantry, that
all of them have told me that, for sake of mere shelter, they would
gladly give up land for planting without asking damages, provided
only the Noble proprietor, Lord Douglas, would put in the young
trees and protect them by suitable fences. The reader may have
some faint idea how much this improvement is wanted, when it is
mentioned, that in what was once a distinct parish, and ex-
tends to no less than 11^ square miles, there are only to be met
with in all 61 trees ! These are chiefly at Hillhouse, Hartside,
and Woodend, marking out in some instances the spot where, in
former generations, a farm- steading has been. Few of these trees
are probably younger than a century, and some from their size
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. £25
cannot be less than fifty years older ; few as they are, they still
show how well both soil and climate are suited for the rearing of
valuable timber. At Woodend there is a fine ash, measuring 10
feet 1 inch round the stem ; and another of still greater height
and beauty, that measures 12 feet in circumference. Close by these,
there is a noble plane tree 8 feet round ; and another of at least
equal girth near Hillhouse.
Naked as Wandell thus is at present, it is said by tradition,
that in ancient times a forest or wood extended all along the
western face of the hills from nearly opposite the Kirk to the south
end of Devonshaw hill at Woodend burn, a distance of two miles
and a-half; and hence the appropriate name Woodend was given to
that farm. The woods of Hartside are said to have been for*
merly the favourite haunt of tlie deer.
In Lammingtoune, likewise, there are no plantations. Such,
however, might with great advantage be scattered up and down
in belts and clumps, to the extent of 300 or 400 acres. And
were the species of plants only judiciously selected, such as ash,
plane, elm, and others that have proved themselves suited to
the soil and climate, there can be no doubt, upon a fair calcula-
tion of human life, that a young man of twenty-one, on coming
to his estate, might find planting a remunerating speculation in it-
self, even laying beauty and shelter altogether out of the question.
With this passing remark, however, I am yet happy to say, that
the old parish and barony of Lammingtoune contains many noble
trees, of, I should suppose, from 120 to 150 years old. These
are chiefly to be found in hedgerows, round square fields, or in
small clusters near the present farm-houses, or close by where
such buildings formerly stood. The greater proportion of these
trees, however, is on the farm of Mains, near the old castle ; also
on the fields to the west of the manse ; and in clumps, and drop-
ping trees upon the crofts and round the gardens, of the vil-
lagers ; and along the banks of Lammingtoune burn. The
number of these trees (for they may be numbered) upon the
whole of Lammingtoune is 711. They consist chiefly of asli
and plane in nearly equal proportions, also a good many elms,
a few beeches, and one very fine horse-chestnut A large number
of these are of very considerable thickness ; many planes from 6
feet 9 inches to 8 feet 7, and one as much as 9 feet and a half in cir-
cumference. The largest ash is 7 feet 7 inches; largest bucch 8
feet 10 inches, and (he horse-chestnut is 7 feet 1 inch round the
826 LAN ARKS WIRE.
stems. Upon the glebe of Lammingtoune, and in a hedge common
to it and the Lammingtoune estate, there are only nine trees, five
of which are on the glebe, two of them old knurly oaks of no great
size, an ash 8 feet 2 inches, and an aged elm of great beauty 10
feet round the stems. Of young trees, I have on Wandell glebe
about 30, and on that of Lammingtoune about 350, all planted in
1826. I was told by an old man, who died about thirteen years
ago, that in his young days he remembered seeing several old fruit
trees, such as apples, pears, and cherries, growing near the " Old
Place," the remains of the Laird of Lammingtoune's orchard, all of
which have long since disappeared ! There was, in my re col lections,
a well-kept garden at Hillhouse, and there are still a good many fruit
trees in it. The garden belonging to the schoolmaster is well laid
out, and supplied with a full complement of apple, pear, and plum
trees, put in three years ago, and promising to do well. He has also
a tasteful shrubbery and flower-plot in front of his house, and the
whole is enclosed with a thriving thorn-hedge. At Beatlaws and
Mains, there are likewise neat gardens, lately formed, and in both
of which there are apple and other fruit trees. There are a few
also at Otterburns and Loanhead. In the little gardens about the
village, there have, for a length of time, been several apple trees*
some of which yield a fair crop in good seasons. All these gar-
dens have gooseberry and currant bushes of excellent sorts. When
I came to the manse in August 1823, there was neither gooseberry
bush, nor fruit tree, nor a single flower nor shrub near it ! In short,
the old garden had been completely destroyed during a vacancy
of five years ! A new garden wall was built in 1823, enclosing
about a Scots rood of ground ; the wall is 9 feet in height, and
encloses the garden on all sides, except the north, where it is de-
fended by the back wall of the kitchen and offices. The wall has
a freestone cope, and the whole cost L. 74. On the inside of the
wall there are thirty-nine fruit trees, and on the east and south
aspect of the same, outside, there are twenty more ; comprehend-
ing apples, pears, plums, and cherries, of various sorts; all now
arrived at full bearing. There are besides those on the wall, fifty-
eight standard trees, chiefly apples. These last do not bear so
steadily as the wall trees, being of late much injured by the May
fly or grub. Along the whole extent outside of the east and south
aspects of the garden wall, there is a border for vegetables 9 feet in
breadth, outside of which, again, and separated by a gravel walk,
there is another border of about the same width planted with trees,
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 827
evergreens, and flowering shrubs in considerable variety. This
shrubbery not only runs the whole length of these two sides of the
garden outside, but is carried in a curve round the front of the
manse, and sweeps along to the west boundary of the glebe at the
entrance from the parish road ; and then takes a bend to the north-
east as far as Lammingtoune burn, by which my little territory
is here bounded, — the whole length measuring about 209 yards.
I own I mention this favourite little border of thriving shrubs and
trees with no little pride and satisfaction, whjen I think, especially,
of the sad, and desolate, and naked aspect, that everything wore
about the place only fourteen years since ; and that now, I can
look out in a lovely summer morning upon the aromatic poplar,
the sweet-scented birch, the bird-cherry, the mountain ash, the
flaunting snow-white gean, the fragrant lilac, the graceful labur-
num, with its thousand grape-like bunches of gaudy blossom, the
cedar and the juniper of pyramidal form, the laurel and the bay-
tree with their lively, verdant, and glittering leaves, all comming-
ling in sweet confusion to perfume the breath of heaven. While
the tout-ensemble is enlivened by the sharp whistle of the yellow-
beaked blackbird, or the mellower music of the Scottish nightin-
gale ! A prodigious improvement, in the way of gardens and
shrubberies, has indeed taken place about all the manses in the
presbytery of Biggar, within these twelve or fourteen years. Ber
fore that time, the most of them in these respects were slovenly in
the extreme, but now they may well cope with those of any pres-
bytery in the kingdom. Evergreens received a severe check in this
district, during the winter of 1836-7, but this they did also even
in the neighbourhood of London, as I had an opportunity of ob-
serving in the following July. The more delicate do not thrive
here, such as the sweet-bay, the laurustinus, and the arbutus.
Hollies, of different kinds, stand our winters well, also the savine,
the arbor vitae, and the yew, especially the Irish. Rhododendrons
have never died with me, though they do not grow so luxuriantlv
as in lower situations, where the soil is of a mossy and damper
nature.
Of land in the united parishes, there are : —
In Wandell,
Under regular cultivation, about -• 364 acres imperial.
That might he, or has been cultivated, about 636
Total of arable in the barony, - 1000
Pasture, partly improvable by draining or top dressing, - 5099
Total of arable and pasture land in the barony, 6099
828 LANARKSHIRE.
In Lammingtoune,
Under regular cultivation, about 400
That might be, or has been cultivated, about, fc^M 680
Total of arable in the barony, ]280
Pasture partly improvable by draining, or top dressing, 3900
Total of arable and pasture land in the barony, 5180
Wandell and Lammingtoune,
Total of land in both under cultivation about, 764
Remaining arable land in both, 1516
Total of arable land in both baronies, 2280
Add the glebe, 6 Scots acres in Wandell, and 4 do. in Lam-
mingtoune, * 12
Total of pasture land in both baronies, 8999
Total of Arable and pasture in the united parishes, 11291
Rent of Land. — Such farms as are wholly arable are let at
about L. 1, 11s. per acre; the croft lands possessed by the villa-
gers at L. 3; average rate of arable land, L. 1, 16s. 5d. ; average
of hill and dale throughout the parish, 5s. 9d.
Produce. — The produce of the parish in stock and crop will
best appear from the following table. There is raised
In Wandell.
Of oats about 1 150 bolls, which at fiars prices for 1839 make L. 1 035 0 0
bear about 86 bolls at do. do. of L. 1, 3s. 2|d per boll, 99 14 1^
potatoes about 630 bolls at 8s. per boll of 8 bushels, the price
paid this year by me, . . . 252 0 0
hay, 12500 stones at 8d. per stone of 22 Ibs. 410 13 4
turnips, 36 acres, at L. 5 per acre, . . 180 0 0
flax, about 112 Ibs. at Is. per Ib. . . 5 12 0
sheep, about 3800, at 6s. per head for keep, 1140 0 0
cows about 81, at L. 6 for grazing per head, . . 486 0 0
other cattle, 44 at L. 2 10s. per head for keep per annum, 110 0 0
horses kept for work and riding 21,, at L. 10 per head for grass
and straw, . . . 210 0 0
young horses, 2, at L. 4 per head per annum, . 800
swine, about 20, value of each at a year old (after deducting inlay
price, varying from 8s. to 15s.) about L. 3, 8s. . 68 0 0
Of wool, Cheviot, about 130 stones at L. 1 per stone average price, 130 00
blackfaced do. 580 stones, at 10s. per stone of 24 Ibs. . 290 0 0
Tutal produce of Wandell, L. 4430 19 5J
Lammingtoune. — —
Of oats, about 2441 bolls, at 18s. per boll, fiars prices for 1839, L. 2196 18 0
bear and barley, 281 bolls, at L. 1, 3s. 2£d. per boll, 325 15 8|
potatoes, about 1564 bolls, at 8s. per boll of 8 bushels, 625 12 0
hay, 15200 stones, at 8d. per stone of 22 Ibs. . . 506 13 4
turnips, 65£ acres, at L. 5 per acre, . . 327 10 0
flax 88 Ibs. at Is. per Ib. 480
sheep, 2208, at 6s. per head per annum for grazing, . 662 8 0
cows, 121, at L. 6 per head per annum, . 726 0 0
other cattle, 101, at L. 2, 10s. per head for grazing per annum, 252 10 0
horses for work and riding, 35, at L. 10 per head for grass and
straw, .... 350 0 0
young horses, 5, at L. 4 per head for pasturing per annum 20 0 0
swine about 50, at L. 3, 8s. per head at a year ojd (after deduct-
ing inlay cost.) . . . 170 0 0
VVANDELL AND LAMM1NGTOUNE. 829
wool, Cheviot about 150 stones at L. 1 per stone, on an average, 150 0 0
blackfaced, about 210 stones, at 10s. per stone of 24 Ib. 105 0 0 .
Total produce of Lammingtoune . . L. 6422 1 5 0
Total produce of the parish, exclusive of glebe, L. 10853 14 5
Rate of Labour. — The rate of wages for good men-servants fit for
all kinds of farm-work, ranges from L. 9 to L. 13 per annum ;
for stout lads of eighteen, from L. 6, 10s. to L. 8. Servant girls
for out-door farm work get about L. 4, and sometimes more for
the summer half year ; and in winter, from L. 2, 5s. to L. 3 ; wo-
men of experience, and entrusted with the care and management
of a house, get from L. 7 to L. 10 per annum ; girls of twelve or
thirteen, employed to herd cows, get from 15s. to L. 1 for the sum-
mer half year. Men on day's wages get Is. in winter, and Is. 3d.
or so, with victuals in summer. In harvest, the usual wages per day
for a man is Is. 6d. with victuals; women, Is. or Is. 3d. with vic-
tuals also. Potato gatherers get 6d. a-day and their food. Joiners,
2s. with, or 2s. 6d. if without food. Shepherds have the produce
of one pack of sheep, that is, 48 sheep of the white-faced, or 55
of the black-faced kind, (the pack their own,) pastured with those
of their master : married men have also a cow, potatoes, and 50
stones of meal in the year.
Articles of Manufacture, $c. — All the common implements used
in husbandry may be procured from tradesmen belonging to the pa-
rish. Good iron ploughs, and there are few else now used, may be
purchased for L. 4 each. Carts cost from L.8to L.10 each ; and
a harrow may be bought from 8s. to 10s. The price of a horse-
shoe is 9d. ; and other smith-work in like proportion. Men's
shoes, about 9s. 6d., and women's shoes, 6s. per pair.
Prices of Provisions. — Eggs per dozen in winter, from 9d. to Is. ;
in summer, from 4^d. to 6d. A hen costs about Is. 6d. ; young fowls
about 9d., and well-grown ducklings, Is. each ; a duck about Is. 8d»
or 2s. No geese are kept in the parish, as they are reckoned hurt-
ful to the pasture. Turkeys may be had from 3s. 6d. to 4s. a-pi$ce.
Fresh butter of the best quality may be had in the summer months
from 7d. to 9d. per imperial Ib. In short, all these articles arc
sold at a penny or twopence, (the dozen for eggs, and the pound for
butter,) below the prices in the Edinburgh market, for which they
are weekly collected by carriers and hucksters. Skim-milk sells
for a penny the Scots pint, and butter-milk the same. Good skim
milk cheese sells at about 3|d. per Ib., and sweet-milk cheese about
5d. or Gd. for the same weight, the imperial Ib. Clydesdale but-
830 LANARKSHIRE.
ter is much prized in the Edinburgh market, and the butter and
cheese of this parish are not inferior to what are produced in any
part of Scotland, not excepting Cuninghame in Ayrshire, long so
famous for these necessary articles of food. Dairy produce in a
wholesale way is generally sent to Edinburgh at the Hallow Fair
in November.
Live-Stock. — The favourite breed of sheep here still continues
to be the black-faced. Of the Cheviot, or white-faced^ there are
82 scores upon Woodend in Wandell, and Beatlaws, in Lamming-
toune, nearly in equal proportions. The black-faced are still es-
teemed as the most delicate mutton ; but the white-faced lambs
come earlier into the shambles than those of the black-faced. The
farm horses are generally of the powerful Clydesdale breed. Ayr-
shire cows are almost the only ones sought after, and due atten-
tion is paid to improving the stock. In some few instances we find
a cross between them and the Teeswater breed ; which are much
valued by some.
Draining. — Though the general character of the land in this
parish is dry and kindly, still there are considerable tracts of it
that stand greatly in need of surface and other draining, such as a
large portion of the farms of Otterburns and Callands in Lam-
mingtoiine; and of Wandell- Mill and Birnock, in the barony of
Wandell. A good deal has of late been done to carry off the
water from the low-level holms on the Lammingtoune estate.
Leases. — The leases of the larger farms in both baronies are ge-
nerally for nineteen years. The crofts, or plans, as they are term-
ed, let to the villagers, are only on leases of nine years; a term
much too short to encourage anything like improvement. The
old terms of Whitsunday, the 26th of May, and of Martinmas, the
22d November, are still universally observed here, whether for
tenants entering upon leases, or for servants entering to, or leaving
their service in families.
Fences. — Enclosures to any extent, or good purpose, were till
very lately, but very partially known in this parish ; and much in
many places has yet to be done in this respect, ere it can be said
generally to have fairly lost its naked and deserted appearance.
Such fences as are, consist almost exclusively of what are termed
Galloway stone dikes, which, however useful, are still exceeding-
ly ugly compared to thorn-hedges, which give a soft and clothed
aspect to a country, especially when diversified by a due sprink-
ling of ash or elm, as in the hedgerows, along the high-roads and
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 831
r'ound the enclosures, of " merry England." Really it is'not only
lamentable, but astonishing in no small degeee, that the great
landed proprietors of Scotland should not think how easily they
might soon wipe away the too much merited stigma so constantly
cast in our teeth by our southern neighbours, as to the bleak and
sterile aspect of our dear native country. There is not a quick-hedge
in the whole barony of Wandell, unless it may be round a kailyard,
and on the south march of the Wandell glebe. Lammingtoune,
though not so bad, has yet but few good hedges upon it. Such as
are, are chiefly about the village crofts and close vicinity. It is true,
however, that within these two years, since the young proprietor came
of age, a good beginning has taken place, by putting in thorn hedges
on the farm of Mains, both along the side of the parish road, and
also in subdivisions throughout the farm. Hedges have likewise
been set along the new access to Beatlaws farm-house ; and
wherever they have been planted they promise to do well.
Farm Buildings, §*c. — In respect to farm-houses in this parish,
there is also, in the greater part of them, much room for amend-
ment. Generally speaking they are very limited in point of accom-
modation ; ill finished, not being lathed upon the walls, and con-
sequently damp, cold, and uncomfortable. The older ones are all
built upon the same plan, of one storey, with three apartments, con-
sisting of a kitchen in one end, a small family room in the middle,
off a long passage, leading to a larger apartment called " the far
room," in the other end of the house. The garret is but rarely
either floored or plastered. In all these three apartments there are
beds. The kitchen is usually the largest apartment in the house, —
the fire is placed about 6 feet from the gable towards the middle of
the floor, and has commonly a bench or form, or sometimes a long
wooden seat with arms, called a " lang settle" placed between the
grate and the gable wall, occupied by theyoung farm lads as a "rest-
ing chair" in the winter evenings after the labours of the day. The
smoke is collected by what is called a brace, that is, a square-
mouthed box, resembling the inverted hopper of a mill, about 5
or 6 feet wide, placed directly over the fire, at the height of 6 feet
or so from the floor, and gradually contracting itself to about 2
feet square as it ascends, and is carried either into a stone chimney
in the gable, or straight up through the roof, close to the gable,
by what is yet well known through all Scotland, as a " lumni,"
namely, a vent or conductor, projecting about 3 feet above the
ridge of the roof, the frame work of which is of wood, generally
832 LANARKSHIRE.
wrapt round with straw ropes, or, in case of the house being slat-
ed, the lumm is then slated also. The " brace" allows a very
roomy fireside in a farm-kitchen, where the servants are nume-
rous, and is better suited to its purpose than a stranger would
be apt to suppose. In Wandell, with only two exceptions, all the
farm-houses are covered with thatch. In Lammingtoune, again,
all the farm-houses are slated, excepting those possessed by the
crofters, or planners, as the smaller tenants are called. All the
cottages in this parish, with only four exceptions, are old and of
the poorest description. Those in the village, generally speaking,
are particularly so ; and in reference to this, it was once happily
remarked to me by an amateur artist of considerable talent, that
" he knew of no village in the whole country so delightful to
sketch as Lammingtoune ; the situation was so beautiful, the burn
lent so lively an effect, the trees were so old and fantastic, and
dropped so tastefully everywhere; and, then, the houses were so
bad, that nothing could have possibly a finer effect in drawing !"
Notwithstanding my friend's correct taste as an artist, and my own
partiality for the picturesque, I should be most happy to see one and
all of our villagers put in possession of such snug and comfortable
dwellings, as that lately built, upon his own feu, by Archibald French
in Lammingtoune, with its neat " roof of straw," its little enclosed
garden behind, and a tidy flower plot in front, bordering the pub-
lic road. Few situations, indeed, surpass in beauty that of the
village of Lammingtoune, — with its clear winding burn rippling
by, to mingle its waters with the far-famed Clyde, — its smooth
grassy hills forming the background, from which may be seen, in
a clear summer morning, the " top of the lofty Benlomond," sixty
miles to the westward; — the " hill of fire," Tinto, in front, and just
at such a desirable distance, as to enable the naked eye to trace
correctly all its striking and massive outlines, — its fine old trees,
the twisted elm, the stately ash, the lofty beech, all dropt here
and there amid its lowly cottages in graceful variety ; and, — not
least in point of attraction, — its little kailyards so trimly dressed, —
with their gooseberry bushes, (the poor man's vinery,) and their
apple trees, — their rose trees and southern-wood,* from which to cull,
* Southern-wood is the common but much cherished shrub of the worthy
peasantry of my native land ! It is associated with the holiest recollections of
my boyish days, — when, on the third Sabbath of June, (a day in the calendar
still doubly dear to my heart,) and in the church-yard of Kelts, and under the
cloudless canopy of Heaven, and surrounded by all those relatives and friends I
held dearest on earth, — I have seen the holy communion table, with its snow white
covering of fine linen, so emblematical of the purity befitting the humble and de-
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 833
in good okl Scottish fashion, a posy for the kirk, upon a sultry
Sabbath morn !
Improvements. — Various improvements have of late been made,
or are still in progress, within the parish. The arable land on the
farms of Cauldchapel, Littlegill, and Wandell-Mill, in the barony
of Wandell, has within these few years been, to a considerable ex-
tent, protected against the inroads of the sheep from the hills, by
excellent stone dikes dividing it from the upland pasture. The
farm-house and offices at Cauldchapel have been slated and put
into a very comfortable state. We hope to see the same soon
take place at Littlegill, where all the buildings are wretched, and
little suited to a farm of its extent, at the present day. The same
remark applies to the dwelling-house of Wandell-Mill, to which,
indeed, a small addition of one room was made last summer,
though put down without the least attention to good taste. A
neat dwelling-house of one storey, and containing six apartments,
was built in 1828 on the farm of Hillhouse, upon a beautiful ris-
ing ground, a short distance to the south-east of the Kirk, and it
occupies one of the prettiest situations in the whole parish.
Within the barony of Lammingtoune, improvements upon a
pretty extensive scale have been going on for the last four or five
years. Ditches have been opened for carrying off the water from
the holm land, hedges have been planted in a variety of places,
particularly upon Mains and Langholme, — and a march dike put
up between Loanhead and Otterburns. At Mains, Langholme,
and Otterburns, the offices have all been either rebuilt, or the old
ones greatly improved. A new farm-house of one storey has been
built at Loanhead, but put down, very awkwardly, upon an almost
inaccessible brink of the high road. Its offices have been partly
vout worshippers around it, — stretching in lengthened line over the grass-grown
abodes of the silent dead ; — and have eyed the hoary patriarch of fourscore, with head
uncovered, and attended by his aged spouse and companion of fifty years, — and fol-
lowed by the feeble lone widow in doleful black, — all wending their way " with tot-
tering stei s and slow," — amid the green hillocks and moss-clad stones, with it>cl!-wr>rn
Psalm Book in one hand, and a sprig of their favourite and refreshing plant in the
other, — to seat themselves at that feast of love, spread before them in the wilderness,
for the spiritual refreshment of the " meek and contrite ones,"— -their venerated pas-
tor of forty long years, having the while taken his station at the head of the holy
table, — his thin gray hairs floating in the gentle noontide brce/e, and his pater-
nal eye affectionately surveying his congregated flock, — and his sainted soul prepared
to implore, in imitation of his Great Master, a blessing from on high, upon the spi-
ritual repast ! — the whole multitude in expectation, standing up,— and a thousand
voices, at the moment, chanting the praises of the God and Saviour of all flesh, to the
plaintive yet soothing notes of their favourite and time-hallowed ColcshiU, — saying in
the words of the sweet Singer of Israel ; " We'll go into his tabernacles, — And at his
footstool bow !"
834 LANARKSHIRE.
new built and partly repaired, and the whole slated. These build-
ings at Loanhead cost L. 600. The only two storey farm-house
in Lammingtoune, and by far the best upon the estate, is that
built within the same period at Beatlaws, about half a mile up
the glen of Lammingtoune Burn, above the village. It has a
wing or projection in front, and another to the back, — and consists
of an excellent large kitchen, with chimney range in the gable,
after the modern form ; — a dining room, drawing room with marble
jams, and a parlour on the ground flat, and five bed-rooms on the
second floor. The whole is finished and furnished in such good
taste and style, as might vie with the generality of farm-houses in
East Lothian itself, even in its best days of agricultural prosperity.
The cost of these buildings was L. 620, exclusive of repairs upon
the offices, which are suitable. All the farms have thrashing-mills
upon them ; — some of these are driven by horses, others by water,
and one, at Langholme, is wrought by steam. Some of the farm-
houses are exceedingly neat and cleanly about the doors. At
Beatlaws, the front is gravelled and tastefully laid out. Others of
them, however, could " thole" amendment, — such, for instance,
as protecting the front from all access by cows and pigs, &c. and
removing dunghills, and other offensive though useful objects,
from the approach to the house, into a situation of greater con-
cealment. Surely, such little attentions to outward appearances
cannot be incompatible with good management, or successful farm-
ing. A great improvement to the farms nearest the river has
been effected, by an embankment of the Clyde, along the whole
extent of Lammingtoune, executed in 1835—6, — stretching not
less than three miles, and at an expense of about L. 2000.
Since Mr Baillie came to the management of his estate in No-
vember 1837, a handsome fancy cottage has been erected for his
game-keeper, on the steep and. beautifully wooded bank of Lam-
mingtoune Burn, opposite the ruins of the old mill, and upon
what was formerly called the Millands. It has excellent dog ken-
nels attached ; and I am told the whole cost about L. 300. He
has also erected a large and elegant building in the village, now
nearly finished, and intended for an inn, — the contract price of
which was L. 800. It is of the cottage style of architecture, such
as one frequently sees in the south of England, having a steep
roof with projecting eaves over gables and side walls ; and it has also
lattice windows, — those of the two public rooms, on the ground
floor, not only projecting beyond the line of wall, but being also
3
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 835
divided into compartments by freestone columns. It will have
every sort of convenience requisite to make it a most comfortable
inn, — and as the Dumfries heavy coach to and from the metro-
polis every week-day passes through the village, — gentlemen fond
of angling may thus not only find a safe and speedy conveyance,
at a small expense, from the dingy atmosphere of " Auld Reekie/'
to the pure air and wholesome waters of the " flowing Clyde," but
will also find, at the Baillies' Arms Inn of Lammingtoune, excel-
lent accommodation for a few days or weeks, and that, too, within
ten minutes' walk of one of the very best of trouting streams in
the kingdom.
Quarries. — There is no public quarry in this parish. Stones
for building dikes are chiefly taken from some rocky spots upon
Loanhead Hill, or from that of Hillhouse, — also from a place on
Hartside Burn, and sometimes from the rocky bed of the river at
Clydesbridge, in Wandell. The- stone procured is often of a
splinty description, and not very good for building houses, though
still used for that purpose. Freestone is brought, if needed, either
from Thornhill in Nithsdale, or from Stone Hill in the parish of
Carmichael. Slates are got either from Stobo in Tweeddale, or
from Glenochar in Crawford, fifteen miles distant.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Market-Towns. — The village of Lammingtoune is situated on the
north-east side of the small burn known by the same name, and on
both sides of the turnpike road leading from Biggar to Dumfries-
shire, by Abington and Leadhills to Sanquhar, or by Crawford,
to either Moflfat or Thornhill. It is thirty-three miles and a quarter
distant, in a south-westerly direction, from the metropolis. At
Abington, six miles up the river, the Glasgow and English mail-
coach passes twice every day, thus affording a speedy conveyance
either to the south or west. There are various carriers every
week from the near neighbourhood, to Edinburgh, besides others
passing to the same city, from Nithsdale and Galloway. Biggar,
distant rather more than six miles, is our regular market-town,
where the farmers and others usually attend every Thursday, to
learn the state of markets and transact business. Servants are ge-
nerally hired at Biggar fairs, in November, January, and April.
Lammingtoune was formerly a market-town itself; Sir William
Baillie having obtained a charter from Charles I. to hold " there
a weekly market every die Jovis, and two fairs, also, in the year,
viz. one on the 15th of June, and another on the 22d of Oc-
830 LANARKSHIRE.
tober ;" of course reckoning by the old style. These have long
since fallen into disuse. Lanark, the county town, is twelve
miles, and Glasgow thirty-seven, distant from Lammingtoune,
both in a north-west direction ; Moffat is twenty-four miles to the
south, Thornhill twenty-nine, and Dumfries forty-three miles to
the south-west. The farm-house of Cauldchapel, in the south-
ern extremity of Wandell, is supposed to be equidistant from
the sea at Leith, Ayr, and Dumfries. A post-office was establish-
ed at Lammingtoune in July 1839, with a runner three days a-week
between it and Biggar.
Ecclesiastical State. — In Bagimont's Roll, " the Rectory of Hart-
side or Wandell, in the Deanry of Lanark," was taxed at L. 6,
13s. 4d. Scots, and that of" Lambyntoun," also in the " Deanry of
Lanark," at the same ; being a tenth part of the estimated value of
their spiritual revenues respectively. At the Reformation, the
parsonage of Hartside was held by a Mr Nicol Crawford, who
reported that " the parsonage tithes thereof produced four chal-
ders and six bolls of meal yearly, including fourteen bolls receiv-
ed by the Cauldchapel ;" and at the same period, these tithes were
rented by the laird of Leffnoreis, (now Dumfries House,) in Ayr-
shire, for L. 66, 13s. 4d. yearly. (See MS. Rental Book, 18.)
Both these parishes are to be found also in Keith's List of Par-
sonages, at the same important era in the history of the Scottish
establishment, and they are given in the following order, viz. Heart-
side, Torrence, Carstairs, Lammington. Nothing like what may
he called & formal or legal annexation of them ever took place, —
but they came first to be held by one and the same individual at
a period when there were fewer candidates for the ministry, and
consequently when greater difficulty was found in supplying vacant
benefices, than at the present day. Mr Charles Jardine, one of
the Applegirth family, was the last parson of Wandell or Hartside
as a separate parish. Mr James Baillie, a kinsman of the laird's,
was at the same time incumbent of Lammingtoune. Mr Jardine,
for what cause, however, it does not now appear, having been de-
posed in 1 607, Mr James Baillie, on a presentation from the pres-
bytery of Lanark, jure devoluto, did on the 5th November 1608,
receive from Mr John Leverance, minister of Robertoun, " insti-
tution of the parsonage and vicarage of the said parsonage of Wan-
dell, with manse, gleib, and kirkland pertaining to the'samen; and
als put ye sd Mr James in actual, real, and corporal possession of
the samyn, with all that apperteins thereto, be placing him in the
4
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. &37
pulpit of the samyn, and be delyvering the book of God, called ye
Bybell, in his hands ; and thereafter past to the mans and gleib of
the said parsonage and vicarage, and there, be delivering to him of
erth and stane, put him in real and peaceable possession of the said
kirklands thereof, with all the pertinents thereto." Having, in
this manner, then, been first conjoined under the ministry of this
Mr James Baillie, the two old parishes of Wandell and Lamming-
toune have ever since continued to form but one cure or benefice.
The barony and parish of Wandell, with the exception of Lit-
tlegill, (noticed in a former part of this account as having been
purchased about sixty years ago,) came into possession of the illus-
trious house of Douglas, early in the seventeenth century, the
charter to which in favour of William, Earl of Angus, in liferent,
and Archibald, Lord Douglas, his eldest son, in fee, bears date
15th June 1613, — that is. five years after Mr James Baillie had
become " persone and vicar of Hartsyde" as well as of Lamington.
He died, it appears, about 1642, when a most violent contest en-
sued before the presbytery of Lanark, to which both parishes then
belonged, between the Earl of Angus and the laird of Lamming-
toune, as to which of them should nominate to the united and now
vacant benefice. The Earl presented a Mr Andrew M'Ghie, and
Lammingtoune issued his presentation in favour of a Mr John
Currie. The presbytery failing to effect an amicable arrange-
ment between the two claimants, the matter was referred to the
General Assembly, who, after maturely weighing "J;he rights and
evidences of both parties," and hearing " the advice of faithful and
skilful lawyers," " advised the presbytery to proceed in the planting
of the kirk of Wandell and Lammingtoune with Mr Andrew
M'Ghie." The presbytery accordingly " in regard that the said
Mr Andrew had given satisfaction in his tryalls," — " appointed
him to preach on the following Sunday before the congregation,
in the afternoon," and Mr George Bennet, one of their number, to
preach in the forenoon, " and to take aspection of the peopled
carriage" But what followed ? — A scene of the utmost violence
and confusion, which affords a strange picture of the refinement,
delicacy, and retiring habits of the titled and high-born dames of
our country towards the middle of the seventeenth century ! Mr
George Bennet, it appears, was permitted to preach in the fore-
noon, as appointed by his brethren ; but as it was only by " shoot-
ing and ramforcing the doors of the kirk" that the moderator on a
previous occasion had found access ; so now upon the present oc-
LANARK. 3n
838 LANARKSHIRE.
casion " when Mr Andrew M'Ghie offered to preach in the after-
noon, he was barred by the Ladie Lammingtoune, and some other
women, wha possessed the pulpit in a tumultuous and disor-
derly way," her ladyship, it is added, declaring at the same time,
" that no dog of the house of Douglas should ever bark there /"
This exhibition occurred in March 1644; but the Lady Lam-
mingtoune, whose maiden name was Grizzel Hamilton, " together
with the other delinquents," were not allowed to go unpunished.
For, on a complaint by the presbytery to the Lords of Council,
" the saidis Ladie Lammingtoune, and remanent persons were de-
creeted to enter their persons in waird, within the Tolbuith of Ed-
inburgh ;" " for obedience whereof, the Ladie Lammingtoune and
remanent persons foresaidis, did then enter their persons in waird ;"
— and in the heart of Mid- Lothian did the lady remain, till her
brother in-law, Mr James Baillie, in the following winter, had paid
over to the presbytery of Lanark, "the soum of 1000 merks," be-
ing the fine imposed upon Sir William Baillie, (then in the public
service in England,) " for the riot had by his lady and her adhe-
rents in the kirk of Wandell and Lammingtoune !" Nor, yet fur-
ther, did the presbytery of Lanark lose sight of " this fact, so
scandalous for the present, and of dangerous consequence for the
time to come," until they brought this amazon to something like a
sense of duty. In prosecution of so laudable an end, they forth-
with appointed their moderator to correspond with the newly erect-
ed presbytery of Biggar, (disjoined since the doings at Lamming-
toune from their own body and that of Peebles, by the General
Assembly of the same year 1644,) and to " desire them to send
to the presbytery of Lanark the Lady Lammingtoune and others,
delinquents, that their depending process may be closed, and they
censured by the presbytery of Lanark, whaes authority was vio-
lite by their scandalous carriage." Accordingly that functionary,
Mr Alexander Livingstone, at a meeting of his own presbytery
on the 5th December of the same year, " reports that he had gone
to the presbytery of Biggar, as his commission did bear;" — " but
that he could obtain no satisfaction to these equitable demands ;
but that after much jangleing and quarreling, their answer was,
that they would do nothing of that kind till they should receive
a part of the soume lately determined by the council to the pres-
bytery of Lanark." The Lanark presbytery did not see good to
share the spoil with their brethren of Biggar, although at the time
the offence was committed, and the action was raised, the great-
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 839
er part of the latter were constituent members of Lanark presby-
tery, and therefore bore their share of " the charges in the tedious
business had concerning the scandalous riot in the kirk of Wandell
and Lammingtoune." While the Biggar brethren, for the reason
assigned, refused to co-operate any farther in this business, with
the parent judicatory, they, nevertheless, fully vindicated the
church's authority, in due time, within their own bounds; for on
Christmas day, only twenty days after the demand had been made
upon them from Lanark, " the Ladie Lammingtoune compeared
before them at Biggar, and, being accused of ane scandel com-
mitted be her in the kirk of Lammingtoune, by her resisting and
stopping of Mr Andro M'Ghie, (expectant sent yr be the presby-
tery of Lanark,) who came there upon the Lord's day to preach;
she did confess the samen resistance, but withali did solemnlie
protest that she had no ill intention, neither any thought either to
prophane God's Sabbath or house, or to hinder preaching, bot
only she satt and stayed Mr Andro to enter ye pulpitt, and went
into the same, only for fear of losing her husband's right, (he being
absent for the tyme in England in the publick service.")
The Kirk of Wandell and Lammingtoune is situated on the boun-
daries of these two ancient parishes, the area of the Kirk being
held as the exact line of march betwixt them. It was dedicated to
St Ninian, as was also that copious and salubrious spring a short
way above the village on the west side of Lammingtoune burn.
The building, originally, must have been of great antiquity, as may
yet be seen by a fine massive circular arched doorway on the north
side near the west end of the church, which was used as the most
patent door up to 1828, when the whole fabric underwent a
thorough repair. The walls being found very substantial were
raised five feet on the sides, which had the effect of taking away
from the former exceeding steepness of the roof ; which was re-
moved and a new one put on. The whole interior was cleared out
and seated anew in a handsome and substantial manner, — the floor
laid with freestone flags, — a handsome gallery erected in each end,
supported in the centre, on each side the area, by round cast-iron
pillars. The pulpit, with a canopy over it, was also made anew,
and removed from the north to the south side of the building. Its
old position was on the Lammingtoune side, where it had been
placed, it is said, by the express orders of the fore-mentioned Lady
Lammingtoune, in order to prevent it being called Wandell Kirk.
Large and pointed arched windows were broken out at regular dis-
840 LANARKSHIRE.
tances, instead of the former little contracted ones, which gave
little light, and did not open. New and suitable doors, also, were
opened up, with fan-lights above to correspond with the windows.
The old door already mentioned was preserved, but built
up. Tradition says, — that this doorway, which consists of free-
stone, has been preserved ever since there was a church upon the
spot, — that the original structure, having nearly become ruin-
ous, the then incumbent applied for a new kirk, which the Lam-
mingtoune family refused, but agreed to repair the old, — and
that on the faith of this promise, the minister, at his own venture,
had recourse to the help of certain willing hands among his people,
who secretly assembled under night, and soon demolished all but
the favourite Saxon door, when he reported the alleged accident
to the laird, and reminding him of his promise, called upon him
to " repair the house of God !" From an inscription upon a
door lintel removed in 1828, the present church appears to
have been either rebuilt or repaired in 172J. Like all churches
of that period in country places, it is ill-proportioned, being
60^ feet in length, by 23 feet 8 inches in breadth, outside.
This was partly remedied- by taking off, by a partition wall, a ves-
try or session-house, in the west end of the building. There is a
belfry on the same end with a well toned bell, put up, as our ses-
sion records bear, " by the Laird of Lammingtoune, upon his own
charges "m 1650, having on it this inscription, "Joannes Monteith
fecit me 1647." The stool of repentance, projecting three feet in
advance of Wandell gallery at its.junction with the south side wall
of the church, and having merely a few coarse spars in front, so
as to afford to the congregation a full view of the culprit, remained
here entire (the last, I believe, in the kingdom), till it was removed
on repairing the kirk, as already stated, in 1828. This conspicu-
ous station, for there was no seat allowed in it, went by the name
of Canty ! There is yet another remnant of " the olden time" con-
nected with this building, and that is, an iron staple rivetted into
the east side of the ancient door-way, in a perpendicular position,
having a play of 14 inches up and down, in order to suit every pos-
sible circumstance in the objects to which it was applied, namely,
by compelling any one who had been guilty of gross immorality, to
do penance here on a Sabbath morn in the face of the assembling
congregation, having an iron collar fastened with padlock round
the neck, and the collar at the same time attached to an iron chain
movable up and down, at pleasure, by means of a ring, upon the
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 841
stanchel in the wall. This apparatus of punishment and disgrace
was named " the Juggs," and I have met with some who had
seen it used. The repairs above-mentioned cost about L. 300. The
number of sittings was calculated for 300; but I have no doubt
even forty more might be accommodated, so that the church could
hold more than the whole inhabitants of the parish. The num-
ber of communicants varies from 150 to 165. There are two
grown-up persons within the parish belonging to the Relief, and
10 or 11 who profess to be of the United Associate Synod, — of
the latter, however, only about the half are regular in attendance
upon their place of worship.
The Manse and offices were built in 1822, and are upon the
Lammingtoune glebe, near to the burn, and about a gunshot
to the north of the Kirk. The contract price was L. 820, the
lowest estimate being, in this case, as it often happens in similar
cases of a public nature, unwisely preferred. It was considered
by many as much too low for the work to be performed, and the
contractor being in difficulties, the job was badly executed. The
consequence was, that, (in the first three years after), all the upper
floors had to be lifted and relaid in a proper manner, an entirely new
garret stair had to be made, and the whole roof was stript and properly
slated ; and, again, in a few years after these repairs, the whole of
the front windows proved so defective, that they were taken out,
and new ones of a more substantial make put in their stead. In
short, there cannot have been less than L. 300 laid out in repairs,
since it was built. There is still something so completely defective
about either the south gable or chimney stalk, that, (after ail that
has been attempted to cure the evil,) what ought to be one of the
principal apartments, viz. the drawing-room, situated in that end of
the house, has been obliged to be left unoccupied, on account of
the quantity of rain water coming from the vent ! Were this only
cured, the manse might, in all other respects, be said to be a most
comfortable house.
The Glebe consists of 12 imperial acres, including manse, offices*
and garden. The glebe of Wandell lies on the south-west of the
Kirk, and contains 6 Scots acres, and is enclosed on two sides by
hedges, on a third by a stone dike, and on the fourth by a hedge with
a facing of stones at the root. Lammingtoune glebe contains 4 Scots
acres, and is enclosed partly by thorn hedges, partly by a wall, and
is bounded on the east by the burn. Both glebes are arable, and, if
let at the rate of the neighbouring crofts, might, exclusive of manse
842 LANARKSHIRE.
and garden, bring L. 30 yearly. The produce from the glebe may
be stated as follows, viz.
Of oats, about 24 bolls, at fiars prices of 18s. per boll, ' * • L. 21 12 &
Of barley, about 5£ bolls, at fiars prices of L. 1 , 4s. per boll, jx i 6120
Of potatoes, about 34 bolls, at 8s. per boll of 8 imperial bushels, 13 12 0
Of turnips, about 30 carts, at 5s. per cart, . . . 7100
Of cows, on an average of years, 3, at L. 6 per head per annum, . 1800
Of sheep, on an average of years, 5, at 8s. per head per annum, . 200
Of pigs, on an average 1, value at a year old, after deducting inlay, . 380
Of horses, on an average 1, partly fed by hay and straw from my glebe, 1000
The garden may be worth about yearly, . . . 800
Total of estimated produce of the glebe, L. 90 14 0
The stipend, as by the locality fixed by the Court of Teinds in
1798, is as follows, viz.
Wandell, . 23 b. 2 f. 1 p. 3£1. meal ; 1 1 b. 3f. 0 p. 3f I. bear, and L.55, 10s. Id.
Lammingtoune, 19b. Of. Op. 3£1. meal ; 9b, 2f. Op. If 1. bear, and L.I 6, 3s. 3d.
Total, 42 b. 2f. 2 p. 2f 1. meal ; 21 b. If. 1 p. 1£1. bear, and L.71, 13g. 4d.
In this the allowance for communion elements is included. In
the year 1824, I applied for an augmentation, when the Court mo-
dified 15 chalders, one-half meal, and the other half barley. This
was met on the part of the heritors by saying that all their teinds
were valued and exhausted. It has, however, since turned out,
that a portion of the estate of Lammingtoune has been found un-
valued ; but the teinds from which have not yet been fixed by a
decision of the Court. The minister has a right to peat, fuel,
turf, and divot, both in Lammingtoune and Wandell, and which I
exercisers often as I have occasion for all or either of them.
Education. — There were formerly two schools in the united pa-
rish, namely, one upon the farm of Woodend, about the centre of
Wandell, on the south side of the high road, where the ruins still
remain, and another in Lammingtoune, both of which were esta-
blished by " the Commissioners of the shire of Lanark on the 1 5th
of June 1697, conformed to the twentie-sext act of the sixth ses-
sion of this (i. e. then) current Parliament." " The yearly sala-
ries modified for the schoolmasters were 200 merks Scots, viz.
50 for the school of Wandell, and 1 50 for the school of Lamming-
toune, appointed to be att the church." Mr John Tweedie, father
of the present respectable parochial teacher of Pettinain, was the
last schoolmaster of Wandell. He died after the commencement
of the present century, when, owing to the smallness of the salary,
and the great decrease in the population of that district, no male
teacher could be had to accept of the situation, and accordingly it
was conferred upon a female, Janet Telfer, who continued to teach
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 843
there for a few years afterwards. The loss of this school still con-
tinues a matter of deep regret to the present inhabitants of Wan-
dell. Attached to this humble seminary, there is a bursary at the
High School and University of Glasgow, endowed by the last
Countess of Forfar, in 1737 ; and the last bursar who enjoyed the
benefit of it was the Rev. Alexander Telfer, minister at John-
stone in Renfrewshire. The bequest is in favour of any boy no-
minated by the kirk-session, " being born of honest parents, edu-
cate and taught in the school of said barony and lands of Wandell."
And accordingly, on this account, the original school having, as
stated, been allowed to fall into decay, the only other school in the
united parish was, in 183(>, removed from the village of Lam-
mingtoune, and a handsome and commodious new school-room was
then built in its stead within the bounds of Wandell, near to the
high road, and but a short distance from the kirk, and intended to
accommodate the whole parish. The building cost L. 164 and
upwards. A small plot of ground was at the same time set off" be-
tween the school and the road for the use of the children at their
amusements. The old school and school-house of Lammingtoune
were, in the same year, thrown into one, as a dwelling-house for
the teacher. The whole was remodelled and completely repair-
ed at an expense of L. 240. The old play ground in front, now
no longer required for that purpose, yet being public property,
would seem to fall naturally to the schoolmaster of the united pa-
rish, and if inclosed, might go to compensate him for the garden
belonging to the old school of Wandell, to which, as schoolmaster
of both parishes, he is in strict justice clearly entitled. The sa-
lary is the maximum. The wages are, 2s. per quarter for English,
and the other branches taught are charged in proportion. The pre-
sent teacher is also postmaster, for which he has L. 5 per annum.
When there is a full complement of scholars, the fees may
amount to L.24 per annum.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of families upon the
roll, receiving regular parochial aid, is at present 7. Some of
these are merely lone and aged women, who receive on their own
account, and others receive partly on account of destitute children
under their care. The allowance to each varies from 5s. to 10s.
monthly. Besides the regular paupers, there are several others
who receive occasional assistance, from the proceeds arising from
the interest of a bond of L. 105 and some odds, over the estate of
Lammingtoune, and of L.70, bequeathed by the late Dr Blinshall
844 LANARKSHIRE.
of Dundee, and others to the poor of this parish, and also from
small sums collected at private baptisms and marriages. The
weekly collections in a parish so thinly inhabited, without resident
heritors, and with only nine resident farmers of the first class, can-
not be supposed to amount to much. They average only about
L. 6 per annum. The remainder of the demands on account of
the poor is made up by assessment upon the heritors and tenants,
varying from 2d. to 3d. upon every pound of real rent.
Inns. — There has long been an inn, or rather public-house, in
the village, which is necessary for people travelling by this road.
There is one toll-bar in Hartside or Wandell, where spirits are
also licensed to be sold. This is an act of the Justices themselves,
to raise the rent of toll-bars, although in doing so they violate an
express act of Parliament, and inflict a sore evil upon the morals
of the community.
Fuel. — Peats were formerly generally used as fuel in this pa-
rish, but the mosses from which they are dug being both distant,
and not of easy access, nor of very good quality, they have long
been but little resorted to. Coals are to be had about eight
miles off at Rigside in Douglas, and at Ponfeigh in Carmichael,
for about 6s. 6d. or 7s. per cart, when laid down at Lamming -
toune.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Many changes have taken place in connection with these pa-
rishes, since the drawing up of the last Statistical Account forty-
eight years ago. The old race of tenants have all disappeared,
and but few even of their descendants are now to be found in
the parish. Incomers from other parishes occupy their room,
and many farms, then let separately, are now possessed in lease
by one and the same individual. Hence, with new men come
new measures, and here, as generally speaking everywhere else,
a new and improved system of agriculture has been introduced ;
and altogether the people may be said to be becoming more culti-
vated in their manners, and more comfortable in their mode of
living. The throwing together of so many farms, however, is to
be regarded as the chief cause of the decrease in the population
from 417 in the year 1792, to 331 in 1840. The great obstacles
to the farther improvement of land in this parish are, the want of
complete enclosures and subdivisions of farms, — the want of shelter,,
only to be remedied by the proprietors putting down plantations of
young woods, — the want of draining in many places, — and, lastly*
WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 845
the great, distance from any large or populous market-town. It
has been already mentioned, that the estate of Lammingtoune has,
for a century past, gone into various families, owing to its being
entailed upon females as well as males ; and it may not be gene-
rally known that the present Marquess of Anglesea is the lineal
descendant, and male represehiative of the ancient family of Lam-
mingtoune,— his grandfather, Sir Nicholas Bayley or Baillie, having
in 1737, married the Honourable Caroline Paget, in right of whom
her son, Sir Henry, succeeded to the honours and estates of Paget
in 1769, and in the year following assumed the sirname of Paget,
and in 1784 was created Earl of Uxbridge.
Wheat of good quality has been raised in this parish,
though ever since the severe winter of 1836, I believe it has
been mostly given up. I tried winter wheat for several years upon
the glebe, and the return was from ten to twelve bushels from one
bushel of seed. The weight of one bushel thus raised was exact-
ly the same as that of the grain sown, which was bought in the
Edinburgh market. But such a result can only be looked for in
good seasons.
Every dwelling-house within the parish, with only two excep-
tions (Keygill and Birnock) may be seen from the public road.
The following is a list of the several incumbents of Wandell and
Lammingtoune, since they became united in 1608, upon the deposi-
tion of Mr Charles Jardine, thelast " parson" of the old parish of Wan-
dell : — Mr James Baillie, — died 1643; Mr John Crawfurd, ejected
about 1662, and died 1674 ; Mr William Baillie, ; Mr James
Baillie, 1689 ; Mr William Baillie, (who appears to have been mini-
ster for only one year, but whether he was translated, or died at that
time, does not appear) ; parish vacant from 1690 for several years ;
Mr Robert Baillie, translated to Inverness about the year 1 700 ;
another vacancy till 1708, when the ordination took place of Mr
David Blinshall, who died upwards of 100, in 1765; Mr James
Reid, transported to the parish of Kinglassie in 1773 ; Mr Thomas
Mitchell, died 12th March 1816. After another long vacancy
of five years, the present incumbent was ordained the 3d of May
1821, on a presentation from the late Lord Douglas, whose right
as alternate patron of the benefice, along with Mr Baillie of Lam-
mingtoune, was decided that year by the Court of Session.
May 1840.
PARISH OF WALSTON.
PRESBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF,LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE.
THE REV. JOHN WILSON, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — THE village of Walston, to which this parish is evi-
dently indebted for its name, has been supposed to be so called *
from a particular well, or spring, distant from it about half-a-mile,
and at one time in some repute for its medicinal properties. It seems
more probable that the name is derived not from one well but several ;
viz. the Buck-well, the Siller-wells, Walston-well, and many others,
named arid nameless, in the neighbourhood, from which no less
than three rivulets descend in the immediate vicinity. But pro-
bable as this etymology may appear, the conjecture may still be
hazarded, that, as the neighbouring parish of Dolphinton, which
anciently belonged to the same proprietors, took its name from
Dolfyn, a brother of Cospatrick, the parish of Walston may
have taken its name from Waldef, another brother of the same
Earlj-f- and that from Waldef s-toun, the name may have been
transformed into Walyston and Walston.
Boundaries, §*c. — In figure, this parish approaches towards a
trapezium, the northern, eastern, and southern boundaries extend-
ing to about 3 miles respectively, and the western to about 2 miles.
It is bounded on the north, by a corner of Carnwath, and by Dun-
syre ; on the east, by Dolphinton ; on the south (having touched
Kirkurd and Skirling in a single point) by Biggar ; and on the
west, by Libberton. Medwin Water, the northern boundary, flows
gently to the westward, no longer in a thousand meanders, as na-
ture dictated, but in a sunk artificial channel, straight at both ex-
tremities, and curved towards the middle abruptly and ungrace-
fully; the difference of level between the point where it first
touches the parish, and that where it leaves it, being not more
than 15 feet. On this line the lowest point, as determined by
actual survey, is 660 feet above the level of the sea, and conse-
* Vide Chalmers's Caledonia, and former Statistical Account,
t Dolfyn and Waldef, brothers of Cospatric, Earl of Dunbar, are mentioned in the
Inquisitio Davidis, anno 1116.
WALSTON. 847
quently the highest, at the north-eastern extremity, 675 feet above
the same level. From this latter point, where the March burn, which
for nearly three-quarters of a mile separates this parish from Dol-
phinton, falls into the Medwin, the land rises at first almost im-
perceptibly for about a quarter of a mile, forming part of a very
level and extensive vale, belonging partly to Dunsyre, partly to
Dolphinton, and in a still greater proportion to Walston, — through
the middle of which the Medwin glides silently along. The com-
mon boundary rises more abruptly as it runs southward, ascending
the sides of the Black or Walston Mount, and about its middle
point, where it crosses the top of this mountain, gains an eleva-
tion of not less than 1600 feet above the level of the sea. It then
descends the sloping sides of the mount, and at its lowest point
in a narrow valley, where the road from Edinburgh to Dumfries
crosses that from Carnwath to Peebles, is still 833 feet above the
sea level, as determined by actual survey; thence it again ascends
for about a quarter of a mile, and forms an acute angle with the
southern boundary line at the top of the Broomylaw, a hill of con-
siderable elevation, where the parishes of Dolphinton, Kirkurd,
Skirling, Biggar, and Walston meet in a single point. The
southern boundary is considerably depressed towards the centre,
reaching nearly 750 feet above the sea level, and at the western
extremity gains an elevation of about 800 feet above the same
level.
It thus appears that the base of this parish inclines considerably
to the north-westward.. The ridge of the .Black Mount descend-
ing westward in repeated undulations, till from 1600 feet of eleva-
tion it reaches towards 800 feet, divides the parish into nearly
equal portions, looking to the north-west and south-west. To the
westward, the ridge and sloping extremities of the mountain fill
up nearly the whole breadth of the parish, leaving on the Med-
win at the north-west corner a mere patch of level ground ; to-
wards the centre of the parish, the sides of the mount ascend more
abruptly, leaving on the north the vale of the Medwin, already
mentioned, and on the south the valley of Elsrickle, at first nar-
row, but gradually widening in its progress eastward.
Hydrogrtiphi/.<~-'rT\*G manifold springs on the northern side of
the Black Mount have already been alluded to. Many of them
are copious, and the water of excellent quality.* These find their
" The temperature of Walston well, and of the Siller wells, where they issue from
the ground, is 44° of Fahrenheit, which would indicate an altitude of about 1000
feet for these wells ; — pretty near the truth.
848 LANARKSHIRE.
way to the Medwin by many rivulets or burns ; viz. the March
burn, already mentioned as forming the north-eastern boundary of
the parish ; to the westward of which, at the distance of about a
mile and a quarter, is Winter-burn ; then the Ha'-burn, the Glebe-
burn, and Black-law burn, all within the space of less than a mile ;
and lastly, the Gill-burn, which separates the parish from Libberton
on the north-western quarter. All these are conveyed by the
Medwin, still continuing its placid course to the westward for
about four miles after leaving the parish, to the Clyde, and by it
to the Atlantic Ocean. Whereas the burns on the south side of
the ridge, — two of which flowing from the extremities of the southern
boundary, which they form throughout its whole extent, viz. Paul-
vard-burn from the eastward, and Cocklaw-burn from the west-
ward, and receiving toward the middle of the line, where they
meet in the vale of Elsrickle, a burn from that village, and two
others from the eastward, both of which rise on the farm of How-
burn, unite in the Two-mile,* or Candy-burn, which falls into
Biggar Water, a tributary of the Tweed, and thus transmit the
waters of the Elsrickle, or south side of the parish, into the Ger-
man Ocean.
Climate. — The climate of this parish is affected not only by the
latitude, 55° 41X, but also to a certain extent by its elevation above
the level of the sea, and above the adjacent country to the west-
ward. In more genial seasons, the harvests are not more than a
few days later than in the vicinity of Edinburgh ; while in cold
and rainy seasons, they are later by as many weeks. From the
cold piercing easterly winds in spring, the parish is greatly shel-
tered by the Black Mount, and Dolphinton Hill, its continuation
eastward. These, with their shoulders and flanks protruding to
the north and south, break the force of the eastern blasts, and
change their direction ; and vainly do the chilling haars, which
flow like the advancing tide over the lower lands that stretch away
to the 'mouth of the Frith of Forth, attempt to surmount their
summits. Obstructed as by a mighty promontory, they float along
the adjacent valleys, and present every considerable eminence
with its trees or houses under the appearance of islands in a whitish
lake. But picturesque as the effects of the haars at times may
be, it is a favourable circumstance for the climate of this parish
that they rarely reach it, and never entirely cover it ; and to this
in some degree it may be owing, that the lands in this parish, even
* " The Two- mile-burn coming fra Elsrickle bog down by Skirling, falls into
Biggar Water, and then into the Tweed."— Sibbald MS. Account by Sir W. Bailhe
of Lamington, and William Baillie of Carphin.
WALSTON. 849
on the north side of the mount are rather earlier than those
much less elevated to the eastward along the foot of the Pent-
lands. But while it is thus sheltered from easterly, winds, it
is exposed to the south-west and south winds, which blow at times
down the vale of Clyde with the violence of a hurricane ; and also
to those from the west and north-west, which bear on their wings
the vapours of the Atlantic, and ascending the hollow course of
the Clyde and Medwin, sweep almost unobstructed from one end
of the parish to the other. The moisture, however, which the
west winds bear along, is in part averted from this parish by the
range, of which Tinto and Culter Fell form the summit, and
partly by the high lands to the westward of Carnwath. The
following are the mean heights of barometer, &c. at the manse
for three months of the current year.
At 10 A. M. At 10 P. M.
Barora. Ther. att. Detach. Barom. Ther. att. Detach.
From 19th April to
18th May inclusive, 29.074 55°.6 51°.5 29.083 57'.3 45°.6
From 19th May to
18th June inclusive, 29.071 55 .7 52 .7 29.040 56 .4 47 .5
From 19th June to
18th July inclusive, 28.944 58.2 54.7 28.955 58.5 49.15
The barometer was kept in a room where there was frequently
a fire. The detached thermometer hung in the open air in the
western corner of a window looking north-west.
The climate is favourable to health and longevity, the best evi-
dence of which is found in the comparatively rare visits of epide-
mic diseases, and in the advanced age which many of the pa-
rishioners have reached in a hale and active state. Within the
last twelve years, not less than nine individuals have died aged
eighty and upwards ; and there are still living, and in the en-
joyment of good health and spirits, in the village of Walston,
twin sisters who have reached the age of eighty-four. In
the village of Elsrickle there resides a lively and contented ve-
teran of the age of eighty-three, who crosses the hill with all the
agility of youth ; and in the parish of Linton, a venerable
patriarch, at the age of ninety-three, who left this parish in 1835,
having spent sixty-six years of his life in it, sixty of which he
passed in the vale of Medwin as a shepherd on the farm of Bor-
land. Having brought up and established in life a considerable fa-
mily, he is now living in his old age in comfort on the remainder
of the fruits of his industry and economy. He was for many years
a member of the kirk-session of this parish, and still delights to
visit it, and to render his aid as an elder at the communion.
Geology and Mineralogy. — Trap rocks compose the mass of the
$50 LANARKSHIRE.
mount throughout its whole extent, and lie under the valley of
Elsrickle. Porphyritic felspar of a very shattered description
abounds on the north side, in which are found in different places
veins of sulphate of barytes. On the acclivity, and at the
foot of the mount on the same side, sandstone lies over the trap.
On the south of the ridge, the felspar becomes more compact,
and passes into clinkstone. At Harecairns, towards the west end
of the parish, on the slope of the ridge, a dike of greenstone is
found running north-west by south-east, and appears in two or
three places above the surface in globular concretions. Atthis place,
also, strata of white sandstone and limestone crop out. White
sandstone is also found near the church, on removing a few feet
of surface ; and at a similar depth, at several places along the
acclivity ; and it dips at inclinations varying with those of the hill.
On the same side of the ridge, on the farm of Borland, red sand-
stone is wrought for building. The lime at Harecairns was oc-
casionally quarried and burnt by the neighbouring farmers till
the year 1816, when they found it more profitable to bring burnt
lime from Carnwath moor, than to cart coals from that locality, and
burn the lime which was found at Harecairns. Coal has not been
found in the parish, though in all probability it lies in the vale of
Medwin ; but from the inclination of the strata it must be very
deep. Beautiful agates have been found imbedded in the trap
on the south side of the hill, and also in the alluvial soil in diffe-
rent parts of the parish. In the vale of Medwin the alluvial de-
posit is of great depth, consisting of sandy loam and patches of
moss. There are about thirty acres of jflow or unconsolidated
moss. In the valley of Elsrickle, or Howburn, the deposit is of
a similar kind, but more adhesive, from a greater admixture of
clay. In the mosses, large trunks of trees have been met with ;
some of them in such a state of preservation as to be used by the
carpenter.
Soil. — The soil is very various, but for the greater part suitable
for turnip husbandry. In the valleys, it is either a brownish loam,
containing moss, or of a sandy character. On the sloping sides of
the hill, it is more adhesive, free of stones and gravel, and in some
places of a quality equal to the best in lower situations. The
mean height of the arable land above the level of the sea is about
800 feet, and its average mean temperature 45° Fahrenheit.
There are no mines in the parish ; but it is highly probable
that two caves on the Borland farm, in the vicinity of Walston
Well, (one of which is about 40 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 5
WALSTON. 851
feet in height, and enters immediately below a vein of heavy
spar,) are the memorials of abortive attempts to discover lead or
more precious ores. These attempts were made in all likelihood
in the reign of James V., by a company of Germans, who, in
1526, obtained from that prince a grant of the precious mines of
Scotland for forty-three years, and worked in various parts of
Clydesdale. * There are appearances of a similar trial on the
hill above Howburn, at a place called the Tours.
Zoology. — In this department, the parish of Walston cannot
boast of any of the more rare species. There are found in it the
fox, the hare, and rabbit, the polecat, the weasel. The otter, the
squirrel, and the ermine are seen occasionally.
About the beginning of March, or in less favourable seasons,
towards the middle of that month, the whistle of the gray plover
is heard from the mists of the hill, in itself unmusical, yet delight-
ful to the ear, as the note which proclaims that the rigour of win-
ter is gone, and that the season of soft showers and blossoms, and
of the singing of birds, is at hand. Next may be heard the wail-
ing sounds of the crested lapwing, and the scream of the curlew.
Lower down, the blackbird and mavis in due time hail the coming
day with their strains. The cuckoo is generally heard about the
first of May ; and the swallow and bat make their appearance
soon after. About the middle of May, the crake of the land-rail
begins to be heard. During seed-time, the fields are visited by
the common gull, and also by flocks of wild geese, which at that
period frequent the banks of the Medwin. Wild duck, teal,
grouse, and partridges are found in their appropriate localities ; as
also black-cock, and occasionally a stray pheasant. The gold-
finch, and chaffinch, the green and gray linnet, the yellow-ham-
mer, redbreast, and common wren, are either resident through-
out the year, or occasional visitants, and the golden-crested wren
may at times be met with.-f-
Botany. — No plants deserving the title of rare have hitherto
been observed in this parish. The following may serve as a spe-
cimen of such as are phanerogamous: — On the top of Walston
Mount are found the blaeberry and red whortleberry (Vaccinium
myrtillus and Vitis Idcea.J The latter may also be found so low
down as about 900 feet above the sea level. Wood-sorrel (Ox-
* Vide History of Mynes in Scotland, printed for the Bannatyne Club in 1825.
f In October 1835, the writer of this account found one of these beautiful little
birds, which had found admittance at an open window, perched on the bell rope in
his study.
852 LANARKSHIRE.
alls acetosella) is found as high as 1400 feet above the same level.
Considerably lower down, at a place called the Old Kirk Wa's,
may be found the only specimen of the hazel-nut tree (Corylus
Avellana) in the parish, and beside it a patch of woodruff ( Aspe-
rula odorata.) On the glebe, at the height of about 950 feet above
the level of the sea, are found the lucken gowan, or mountain
globe-flower, ( Trollius EuropceusJ ; marsh cinquefoil (Comarum
palustre) ; water avens (Geum rivale) ; and butterfly-orchis
( Habenaria bifolia) ; and lower down frog-orchis ( Habenaria vi-
ridis) ; bald-money (Meum. athamanticum ) ; and marsh arrow-
grass (Triglochin palustre.) On the sides of the Borland Burn,
common golden-rod (Solidago Virgaurea) ; common dwarf cistus
(Cistus helianthemum) ; and wood crane-bill (Geranium sylvati-
cum.) On the sides of the Ha' Burn, purple foxglove (Digita-
lis purpurea) ; common whin or furze ( Ulex Europceus) ; alternate-
leaved and opposite-leaved golden saxifrage ( Chrysosplenium al-
ternifolium and oppositifolium ) ; pilewort (Ficaria verna) ; and
butter-bur ( Tussilago petasites.) In the lower grounds, along
with several of those already mentioned, marsh marigold (Caltha
palustris) ; wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa) ; common tway-
blade ( Listera ovata) ; white cluster-rooted orchis (Habenaria
albida) ; aromatic palmate orchis (Gymnadcnia conopseaj, and
yellow water iris (Iris Pseud-Acorus.) In the Borland moss, com-
mon mares-tail ( Hippuris vulaaris), and cranberry (Vaccinium
oxycoccos), may be found, but neither abundantly.
Genista anglica Parnassia palustris
Ononis arvensis Epilobium alsinifolium
Euphrasia officinalis Pinguicula vulgaris
Gentiana carapestris Sedum villosum
Lin urn catharticum Saxifraga granulata
Draba verna Spiraea ulmaria
Alchemilla vulgaris Tussilago Farfara
Menyanthes trifoliata Cardamine pratensis,
Drosera rotundifolia
may also be met with in their appropriate habitats. The moun-
tain ash (Sorbus or Pyrus aucuparia) is to be met with, eaten down
by sheep, and pushing out its branches under shelter of the
heather, after the manner of white clover, and nearly as small, (and
in more favourable situations) as a stately ornamental tree. Were
the high grounds enclosed it would speedily rush up in all direc-
tions ; and at present it may be seen raising its head above the
whins, which protect it from the ravages of its enemies. This
tree may therefore be regarded with justice as a native of the pa-
WALSTON. 853
rish, and there are three splendid brethren of the species growing
in the immediate vicinity of the manse. The other trees which
seem adapted to the climate and soil, and of which good speci-
mens are to be seen on the Walston or Elsrickle sides of the hill,
are, the elm, the plane, the ash, the gean, and the hawthorn.
There are in the garden at the Place, formerly the manor house,
two fine yew trees of considerable age, and there was also in an
enclosure beside it a row of hollies of great beauty, which have
lately been destroyed by sheep. Around the manse, the Place
and the Old Borland, there still remain a few plane and ash
trees, the survivors of a noble plantation. In Hamilton of
Wishaw's Account of this parish, it is said, " it" (the pro-
perty) " hath an old house seated near to the church, and well-
planted with barren timber." This description is, alas ! no longer
applicable. It is currently reported at this day, that the greater
part of the wood was cut down between 1709 and 1752, during
the dependence of the lawsuit between John Baillie's heirs, and
George Lockhart of Carnwath ; and it is expressly stated in the
records of Presbytery, that, in the year 1737, " a great many
large trees growing in the kirk-yard were cut down, and sold by
the principal heritor." To this period, therefore, we may refer
the clearing which the present generation deplore, and which
they cannot even hope to see remedied in their days. Some-
thing, however, has of late been done in the way of planting, and
the growth of Scotch-firs, larches, spruces, and silver-firs, and also
of the hard-wood with which they are interspersed, affords the
greatest encouragement to the proprietors to persevere in planting
and enclosing. And they must be quite aware, that, though the
direct return from their plantations may be distant, the return
from their fields fenced, and sheltered will be immediate and pro-
gressive.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
There is no account of this parish more ancient than that in
Hamilton of Wishaw's account of Lanarkshire, drawn up about
1710, and lately printed for the Maitland Club, to which are sub-
joined by the editor, six charters relating to the revenues of the liv«
ing of Walston, of date 1292-3, extracted from the chartulary of
Glasgow. The account in Chalmers's Caledonia does credit to
his acknowledged accuracy of research. There is no separate map
of the whole parish. There are, however, excellent plans of the
LANARK. 3 1
854 LANARKSHIRE.
different properties in the hands of the proprietors, to which the
writer of this account has been kindly allowed access/
Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers consist of a volume
containing marriages and births from the year 1680 down to the
present time, and three volumes of acts and proceedings of the
kirk-session. Of these the first commences in 1703, and is in the
handwriting of Mr Lining, by whom it was kept most accurately
during his incumbency. After his time, there is a great falling off,
and, upon the whole, it may be said that the registers have been
any thing but well kept. A volume of some importance, contain-
ing acts and proceedings of session from 1655 to 1692, and re-
corded to have been in existence in 1752, has since disappeared.
It is reported to have been consumed in a fire, which burnt part
of the schoolmaster's house, many years ago ; but it may perhaps
be still in existence, and if this should meet the eye of any one
who knows any thing certain of its fate, it is hoped he will be good
enough to communicate it. to the writer.
Antiquities. — A tripod of brass, supposed to be a relict of the
Roman invaders of our island, was lately struck by the plough
on the farm of Borland, and is now in the possession of Adam
Sim, Esq. of Cultermains. The same gentleman has also in
his possession a celt found in this parish, the relict of another
race who occupied it at a more recent period, and there
is another in possession of the writer of this account, presented to
him some years ago by the kirk-officer. Stone coffins have been
turned up at the east end of the village of Elsrickle, and one was
lately discovered containing an urn on the farm of Hyndshieland.
On exposure to the air the urn crumbled into dust. On the farm
of Cocklaw, there are on the high ground the remains of what has
been erroneously called a Roman camp. It has consisted of two
concentric circular earthen mounds and ditches. The diameter of
the inner circle is 67 yards, and the outward mound and ditch are
5 yards from those within.
Historical Notices, Civil and Ecclesiastical. — In the earliest re-
cords relative to this parish, we find it a pertinent of the lordship
of Bothwell ; and for upwards of three centuries it was either
claimed or possessed by the various individuals, who successively
inherited that Lordship, or to whom it was granted by the Crown
on their frequently recurring forfeitures. The lands of Walston
and Elgerith, or Elgirig, (subsequently Elgerigill, and now Els-
rickle), formed a barony co-extensive with the parish ; and the pa-
tronage of the church has all along been conjoined with the ba-
W ALSTON. 855
rony, and transmitted with it to the present possessor. Like the
neighbouring parish of Dolphinton, it passed from the hands of
Walter Olifard, who died in 1242, successively into those of the
Morays and the Douglases.* Sir John Ramsay next obtained it, and
held it for a fewyears, when it was forfeited and bestowed upon Patrick
Hepburn, Lord Hailes. On the forfeiture of James Hepburn, the
too famous Earl of Both well, in 1567, the barony of Walston, and
the patronage of the church, once more fell to the Crown, and were
granted by James VI. to John, Earl of Mar. By this distinguish-
ed nobleman, the barony of Walston, with the patronage of the
church, was sold towards the commencement of the seventeenth
century to Robert Baillie, merchant -burgess of Edinburgh, a
son of Matthew Baillie, of St John's Kirk, who, dying at Walston
in J655,"f- was succeeded by his son Christopher,^ on whose de-
cease in 1693 his son John succeeded, who in June 1709, sold § the
* Sir Thomas Moray of Bothwell, by marriage with whose daughter and heiress
the lordship of Bothwell passed into the family of Douglas, granted to Sir Robert
Erskine and Christian Keith, his spouse, the lands of Walayston and Elgereth, in
Lanarkshire, to be holden of him and his successors ; and this grant was confirmed
by a charter of David II. (vide Douglas' Peerage, Earls of Menteith). John, Earl of
Mar, was lineally descended from Sir Robert Erskine and Christian Keith, and this
may have been the reason why, on the forfeiture of the Earl of Bothwell in 1567, he
obtained a grant of the barony of Walston from the Crown ; and why that grant was
excepted from a revocation made in Parliament 29th November 1581. The barony
and lands of Walston, with the advowson of the church, were included in the grant of
the whole property of the lordship of Bothwell to Francis Stewart in 1581, and this
grant was ratified in Parliament, 29th November, in the same year, when a protest
was made against the grant to the Earl of Mar. The attainder of Francis, Earl of
Bothwell, in 1593, extinguished whatever right he had to the property of Walston,
and left the Earl of Mar in undisputed possession of the property, temporal and spiri-
tual— Vide Chalmers's Caledonia. The Earl of Mar occasionally resided at Wal-
ston for his recreation in hawking, and was there in 1601 with his lady, Dame Maria
Stuart. — Vide Memorie of the Somervilles. His hunting seat was a square tower,
pulled down within these few years to build cow-houses, which now occupy the site.
f Robert Baillie obtained a charter from the Crown, in his own name, and that of
his wife, Marion Purves, which is dated 30th November 1632. He and his son
were suspected of favouring Montrose's attempt. Robert Baillie mortified 400
merks for the use of the poor of the parish.
£ Christopher Baillie married Lilias, daughter of Sir David Murray of Stanhope,
and Lady Lilias Fleming, daughter of the Earl of Wigton. He built the aisle at the
south end of the church, where his father, himself, his son John, and Grizzel Rachel
Baillie, John's daughter and heiress, are interred — Vide tombstone in vault. His
body was embowelled and embalmed at an expense of 400 merks. Christopher pre-
sented to the church of Walston in 1657, four silver communion cups, which yet re-
main to attest his liberality. On them are engraved his arms, and those of his wife ;
and over the shield is a cypher, in which are blended the letters, R. B. ; M. P. ;
C. B. ; L. M. ; being the initials of his father's name, and that of his mother, his own,
and his wife's. Christopher Baillie was suspected of malignancy in 1646, and was
fined L. 9600 Scots by Middleton's parliament in 1662 Vide Wodrow, by Burns,
Vol. i. p. 272. Christopher Baillie mortified, 12th October 1660, L. 1000 Scots
money, the interest of which to afford a salary to the schoolmaster ; this was lost by
mismanagement towards the end of last century, having been lent many years before
on insufficient security.
§ Vide Morison's Decisions, 16891, and 8433.
It appears from the records of the Presbytery of Biggar, 1709, that John Baillie
856 LANARKSHIRE.
barony of Walston, with the patronage of the church, to George
Lockhart of Carnwath,* in whose representative, Sir Norman
Macdonald Lockhart, of Lee and Carnwath, Bart, both are now
vested.
The lands of Elsrickle, about one-half of the parish, were sold
by George Lockhart of Carnwath, in portions, in 1722 and follow-
ing years, to John Hunter, Andrew Aitken, John Craig, James
Peacock, and others ; and there appears in the cess-book of the
county, in 1747, the following list of the heritors of Walston, with
their respective valuations : —
Laird of Carnwath, . L. 724 0 0
James Harper in Elsrickle, . 25 0 0
John and James Craig there, . 180 0 0
John Hunter there, . . 40 0 0
Andrew Aitken there, . 43 0 0
James Peacock there, . . 160 0 0
Thomas Henderson, . 43 0 0
Thomas Yelton there, . 18 0 0
L. 1233 0 0
The present heritors of the parish, with their respective valua-
tions, are as follows :
Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart, L. 724 0 0
John Allan Woddrop of Elsrickle, 358 0 0
Mr John Allan Rowat, . . 92 13 3
Mr William White, . . 27 6 0
Mr James Aitken, . . 15 14 0
Mr Andrew White, . . 15 7 9
L. 1233 0 0
Of the above heritors only one, Mr Aitken, resides in the pa-
rish.
By a charter dated 1292, the right of patronage of the rec-
tory of Walyston was conferred by Sir William Moray of Both-
well upon the dean and chapter of the Cathedral of Glasgow,
with reservation of the patronage of the vicarage to himself and his
successors. By a subsequent charter in 1293, the rectory was
fixed at twenty merks of teinds, and three acres of the church
lands, which were to be possessed and held by the dean and chap-
ter for ever, freely and quietly for their common benefit, and were
was not the sole heritor of the parish of Walston, as asserted in the account of the
parish drawn up for Hamilton of Wishaw. James Harper possessed the small
property of Harperhall, and was the only other heritor. — Vide Record of Presby-
tery. In the register of deeds, at Lanark, a James Harper is found as portioner in
Elsrickle, as early as 1637, and James Leishman, as portioner there, in 1638.
* An unsuccessful attempt was made to obtain a reduction of this sale by John
Baillie to G. Lockhart. The law-suit was commenced in 1709, and settled by arbi-
tration in 1752.
W ALSTON. 857
so held by them till the Reformation. In Bagimont's Roll, the
vicarage of Walston, in the Deanery of Lanark, is taxed at L. 2,
13s. 4d., being a tenth of the estimated value jof the spiritual re-
venues. At the Reformation, the rectorial revenues were let to
the parishioners for L. 40 yearly, and it was reported by Sir Da-
vid Dalgleish, who then held the vicarage, that its revenues were let
for 50 merks yearly payable to him, and 20 merks more, payable
to Lawrence Leschman, — a minister who had been placed in the
church of Walston by the Reformers. The rectorial revenues
were afterwards granted to the College of Glasgow.* In 1708,
the stipend, on an average of years, did not not exceed 600 merks.
In 1755, it amounted to L. 58, 5s.; in 1798, to L. 77, 16s. 6d.
Ministers of Walston. — Robert de Lamberton, rector of the
church of Walston, swore fealty to Edward I. in 1296, and there-
upon obtained a mandate for the delivery of his property. He
held the benefice during his life. In 1502, Mr Edward Sinclair
obtained a presentation from the King to the vicarage of Walston,
which was vacant by the decease of Mr William Crichtoun. How
the presentation came to be with the King does not appear.f He
was succeeded by Sir David Dalgleish and Lawrence Leschman al-
ready mentioned. On the death of Sir David Dalgleish, Walter
Tweedie waspresented, (20th May 1 567, ) by James Earl of Bothwell,
the patron, to the vicarage of the parish church of Walston ; but
Bothwell being denounced a rebel before his collation, he obtained
agrant of the benefice from the Regent Murray in September 1567.J
In the "Register of ministers in Clydesdale sen 1567," we find at Wal-
ston John Fotheringham, exhorter, xl merkis ; Thomas Lindsay,
exhorter, xl merkis. Thomas Lindsay is, in 1576, found as mi-
nister with a stipend of L. 66, 13s. 4d., and Robert Kinross,
reader, with L. 1 6. Thomas Lindsay, as appears from his tomb-
stone in the churchyard, died minister of Walston, 17th June
1609, and was succeeded by his son Thomas Lindsay, who died
in 1654. Patrick Anderson was inducted in 1655, and ejected
for non-conformity in 1663. In September 1672, he was ordered
by the council, under the Act of Indulgence, to repair to the parish
of Kilbirnie, and there to remain confined, with permission to
preach and to exercise the other parts of his ministerial function, —
which order he did not obey. In 1673, he was called before the
council, and ordered to his confinement betwixt and the 1st of
* Vide Hamilton of Wishaw's Account.
f Vide Chalmers's Caledonia, notes. £ Ibid.
858 LANARKSHIRE.
June. In April 1678, he was charged before the Council for keep-
ing conventicles in his house in Potterrow, in the years 1674-
75-76-77 and 78, and for having conversed and corresponded
with Messrs Welsh, Williamson, Johnston, and other intercom-
muned persons. He appeared and denied the charge ; and was
ordered to the Bass, unless he would presently find caution, under
the penalty of 2000 merks, to remove from Edinburgh, and five
miles round it, and that he should converse with nobody but those
of his own family. " This," says Wodrow, and most truly, " was
a very hard and iniquitous interdict/' To the Bass then he went,
and in the damp cells of that dreary and inhospitable rock, he,
with other devoted brethren, lingered out days, and months, and
years, till God quelled the power of their oppressors, and opened
the doors of their prison-house. About the period of the Revo-
lution he was orderly loosed from Walston, and translated to Dal-
keith. The people of Walston, however, were far from being sa-
tisfied with his translation, and on 27th June 1 689, petitioned the
united presbytery of Peebles and Biggar for advice how to get back
their beloved pastor. In the end of the year, he returned to his
devoted people. The manner of his return was not according to
strict form. But the sufferings of the venerable man, his age and
infirmities, would seem to have been admitted as his justification ;
and on the 22d July 1690, he died minister of the parish, from
which he had been so unjustly extruded, and was buried among
his own people. In his absence, the cure was served successively
by John Scheill, who was presented by the Archbishop of Glasgow
in 1664, and died May 1677 ; John Reid, who was also present-
ed by the Archbishop, jure devoluto, inducted 28th September
1678, and translated to Biggar 23d December 1685 ;* and lastly,
by Robert Kincaid, who was presented by the Laird of Walston
(Cr. Baillie,) inducted 28th April 1686, and was present in the
Presbytery of Lanark, to which Walston was then reunited, 2d
May 1688. Patrick Anderson was succeeded by James Brown, who
was admitted 24th September 1691, having been formerly minister
at Kilbucho, where he was ordained and admitted June 5th 1690.
He was translated to Kilbucho, whence he had come, 10th Sep-
tember 1696. After a vacancy, Simon Kello or Kellie was or-
dained 24th April 1700, and was transported to Glenholm, 9th
April 1703, where he died 27th December 1748. John Baillie,
the Laird of Walston, refused in presence of the Presbytery to hear
* Between the years 1679 and 1685, the parish of Walston was fined L.308, 8s.
—Vide Wodrow's Preface to Vol. ii.
WALSTON.
him, or to redress his grievances, which seems to have been the
cause of his removal ; but so great a favourite was he with some of
the parishioners, that " some women at Walston" prevented him
from leaving the parish on the day first appointed for his admission
at Glenholm, the 31st March. The parish again suffered a va-
cancy till 1705, when Mr Thomas Lining, whose name is still
held in veneration, was ordained, 10th May of that year; he died
20th December 1731. In 1732, George Lockhart of Oarnwath
presented Mr Adam Petrie; and the presentation, together with
Mr Petrie's letter of acceptance, was laid before the Presbytery
at their meeting, 15th June; but there being no appearance on
the part of the parish, consideration of the matter was delayed till
the 13th July, when there being still no appearance on the part of
the parish, the Presbytery, after due considerarion, resolved by a
great majority, that {he jus devolutum had fallen into their hands !
The reasons for this conclusion were stated to be, l.The infor-
mality of the letter of acceptance ; 2. Mr Petrie's not being qua-
lified according to law. This was in all probability founded on
the want of a call. "3. The want of evidence of Mr Lockhart's
being qualified according to law, or being patron of Walston."
The case was appealed to the superior courts, and remitted to a
committee of Assembly, before which it was stated on the part of
Mr Lockhart, that he was willing to pass from his presentation to
Mr Petrie, and present a person who should be approved by some
ministers named. The Presbytery at last agreed not to insist on
the right which they supposed they had acquired, and Mr Lock-
hart immediately nominated Mr Patrick Hepburn, who was or-
dained 14th August 1734, and translated to the parish of Ay ton,
Presbytery of Chirnside, 14th June 1753. A presentation was
laid on the table of the Presbytery in favour of John Thomson,
llth October 1753, and after considerable opposition he was or-
dained 20th May 1753, — a most unhappy settlement of which the
parish of Walston still feels the effects. Mr Thomson appears
to have been a good and even a pious man, but an insufficient and
unacceptable minister. During his incumbency the congregation
was dispersed, — the church at last was literally deserted, — and for
many years the sacrament of the Lord's supper was not dispensed ;
he died llth August 1787, and was succeeded by Patrick
Molleson, who was ordained 5th August 1788. To him this pa-
rish is much indebted. He drew together a respectable congre-
gation, and secured them to the church by his diligence and fide-
860 LANARKSHIRE.
lity.* He was alive to every good work, arid to his exertions not
only this parish, but the neighbouring parish of Biggar, is indebted
for the foundation of its library. He died full of years and ho-
noured, 16th January 1825, and was succeeded by the present in-
cumbent, who was ordained 22d September 1825.
I II. — POPULATION.
The population of this parish has varied very little during
nearly a century, as may be seen by the following statement :
Amount of population in 1755, 479
1791,
1801,
1811,
1821,
1831,
427
383
377
392
429
And by a census taken for this Account, 1st May this year, by Mr
Andrew Aitken and Mr Sym, schoolmaster, elders, the population
was 488. Of these, 89 reside in the village of Walston, and 196
in the village of Elsrickle ; the remainder in the country.
There are five proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50
and upwards.
The number of families in the parish is 102, and the number of
inhabited houses the same.
The favourite games of the district are quoits and curling, in
which this parish can boast of its fair proportion of good players.
The people, on the whole, enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the com-
forts and advantages of society ; are moral and religious, and con-
tented with their situation and circumstances.
The population comprehends, 1 cattle-dealer, 1 gamekeeper,
1 carrier, 2 surface-men, 1 toll-keeper, 1 innkeeper, 1 mason, I
stocking- weaver, 1 cooper, 4 shoemakers, 3 tailors, 1 carpenter,
3 smiths, and 31 weavers, and there are employed in agriculture
65 males.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — The number of imperial acres cultivated or oc-
casionally in tillage is about 2901 ; in permanent (chiefly hill) pas-
* In 1794, he was presented to Dunsyre, at that time a better living, and the case
is now referred to in the Church Courts, as a precedent for refusing translation un-
der particular circumstances. To those better acquainted with it, however, it affords
such a proof of factious opposition to a meritorious minister, as to establish that the
people may err in their opposition, as well as patrons in their selection. Indeed it
forms a counterpoise to the case already alluded to in Walston, and if the parisn of
Walston feels at this day the effects of the one, the parish of Dunsyre has been
thought to be still labouring under the consequences of the other. The factious op-
ponents of Mr Molleson's translation to that parish, after being worsted in the Pres-
bytery and synod, where the case was thoroughly understood, obtained a victory in the
General Assembly, where its specialties could not be so well known, and the pa-
rishioners of Dunsyre at this day can best tell what thanks are due to those who re-
sisted the settlement of Mr Molleson among them.
WALSTON. 8G1
ture 1083; occupied by plantations about 08. The highest
rent obtained for land is for the crofts at Elsrickle, which are let
in lots of from 3 to 8 acres at L. 2, 8s. per imperial acre. On
the other hand, there is some arable land so low as 5s. per acre.
About 100 acres have been added to the arable land within the
last twenty years, partly by improving moss, and partly by drain-
ing the land which used to be overflowed by the Medwin, before
it was diverted from its manifold windings into the straight chan-
nel cut for it in 1829.
Draining has been extensively performed, but much still remains
to be done. The improved mode of furrow-draining is beginning
to be practised, for which excellent stones of a suitable size can
be readily obtained. The greater part of the land being uninclos-
ed, it cannot be cultivated so minutely or regularly, as it might be
if subdivided by good fences. In general, tillage is well perform-
ed, and a rotation suitable to the different varieties of soil is ad-
hered to. The best land is cropped in a course of six shifts, while
the worst is kept in pasture or broken up only when it has become
fogged, put through a course of cropping, and again laid down in
grass. Twenty-seven-ploughs are at present employed, but their
number is likely soon to be reduced, as the farmers find that the
land pays better in pasturage for cows or sheep, than in white crop,
and the recent late harvests have confirmed them in this opinion.
Live-Stock. — The dairy stock is chiefly of the Ayrshire breed;*
there being also a cross of this with the short horns. The ma-
nagement of the dairy is well understood, and practised. Butter
and cheese are both made on some farms, but the making of full
milk cheese, of the Dunlop and Stilton varieties, is becoming more
general, and what is made here, equals, if it does not excel the
same kinds made in the districts from which they take their name.
This is proved by the premiums of the Highland Society which
have been awarded to individuals in this and the neighbouring pa-
rishes.
Produce. —
3,296 bolls of grain with fodder, at L. 1 per boll, L. 3296 0 0
1,620 bolls of potatoes, at 5s. per boll, . . 405 0 0
2,800 tons of turnip, at 4s. per ton, . . . 560 0 0
10,050 stones rye-grass hay, at 6d. per stone, . 251 5 0
13,200 stones meadow hay, at 4d. per stone, . 220 0 0
215 cows grass of, at L. 3, . . . 645 0 0
96 two year olds, do. at L. 2, t;j V 4* 192 0 0
• A cow of the pure Ayrshire breed, belonging to George White in Elsrickle,
gamekeeper to Mr Woddrop, produced 16 Ibs. 2 oz. of butter weekly, for six weeks
successively ; and during the first twelve weeks after calving, 11 stone imperial-
862 LANARKSHIRE.
102 one year olds, grass of, at L. 1, . > . L. 102 0 0
120 calves, do. at 5s. . '.;,;. 30 0 0
67 horses, do. at L. 3, . '.''.' 201 0 0
660 sheep, do. at 5s. -..;.;;? •".'.'! 165 0 0
L. 6067 5 0
Gross Rent,* L. 2046 17 11
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Market-Towns. — The nearest market- towns are Biggar and
Carnwath, distant the one about five miles and a-half, the other
about six miles from the village of Walston.
There are two villages in the parish, Walston and Elsrickle.
The former, situated, as has been already mentioned, on the north-
ern side of the hill, has been gradually dwindling away for several
years ; while the latter, in consequence of feus being granted by
Mr Woddrop, has of late years considerably increased. Both
are pleasantly situated ; but Elsrickle has a decided superiority
in the trees which shelter and set off its scattered cottages to the
best advantage. It is a picturesque village, and requires only
attention in allotting future dwellings, and plantation judiciously
arranged to harmonize with the trees already in existence, to
make it the prettiest village in the upper ward.
Means of Communication, fyc. — There is no post-office in the
parish ; the nearest was, till lately, about five miles distant. A
few years ago, however, there was established at Roberton, in the
neighbouring parish of Dolphinton, a sub-office to Noblehouse,
which is a great accommodation to the parishioners on the Wal-
ston side of the hill, being distant about three miles from the vil-
lage ; and also to the adjoining parishes. For this they are in a
great measure indebted to the exertions of Dr Aiton, who brought
the matter under the notice of the proper authorities. The
turnpike roads in the parish are those from Dumfries to Edinburgh,
and from Carnwath to Peebles ; the former extending about a
quarter of a mile, the latter about three miles and a-half. A
coach runs from Edinburgh to Dumfries on alternate days, and
occasionally in summer every day. The Dumfries mail and a
coach from Edinburgh to Lanark run within four miles from the
parish. A carrier, resident in Elsrickle, leaves for Edinburgh on
Monday evening, and returns on Wednesday evening weekly. The
bridges are of small span, unsuitable to their position, but sub-
stantially built. One of them, immediately to the eastward of
• The rent of the lands sold by John Baillie to G. Lockhart did not average more
than 800 merks yearly while in John Baillie's possession.
WALSTON. 863
Walston village, is even dangerous to those who travel in car-
riages ; but there is a prospect of this being soon remedied to a
great extent.
Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the church and parish school
is inconvenient for by far the greater part of the population ; not so
much from their distance, for there are not half adozen houses beyond
a mile and a-half from either, as from being on the north side of
the ridge ; while the greater proportion of the population is on
the south side. The church was built in 1789, which date appears
on a stone in the north-west corner of the north gable, as also
the letters M. P. M., indicating Mr Patrick Molleson, at that
time minister. And there is immediately under this another
stone, inscribed with the letters M. T. L. M., and date 1598;
evidently preserved from a former building erected while Mr
Thomas Lindsay was minister ; and standing, as it ought to do,
from east to west, while the present fabric is a continuation of a
burying aisle, built in 1567, and stands north and south ; the
whole of disproportioned longitude, and presenting its extended
roof to the prevailing winds. On a stone on the north-east cor-
ner of the north gable are rudely sculptured the armorial bear-
ings of the family of Mar, to which the barony belonged in 1598.
At present, the church is in a state of good repair; and internally
a comfortable, and rather elegant place of worship. Not many
years ago, it was very much the reverse ; but on application to the
heritors by the present incumbent, it was repaired to his perfect
satisfaction ; and the addition of a porch to the west has improved
the appearance externally, as much as it has added to the comfort
within. It is seated for 170 persons. Of the sittings, 24 are
common ; the remainder are apportioned to the heritors, according
to their valued rents. The burying aisle and gallery above it
were sold in 1762 by George Lockhart of Carnwath to Joseph
Allan for L. 31, 10s.;* '« to be held pro tafoashis proportion of the
area of the kirk and burial place in the kirk-yard, as an heritor of
Walston," and now belong to Mr Woddrop on the same terms.
The present manse, •)* built in 1828, and completed in the spring
of 1829, is a sufficient and commodious dwelling, suited ta
the living. It is supplied with excellent water, brought from a
considerable distance, about two years ago, at a trifling expense ;
partly borne by the heritors, and partly by the minister. There
* Vide Deed of Disposition.
•f On repeated trials with an excellent barometer, the ground-floor of the manse
has been found to be 830 feet above the level of the sea,
864 LANARKSHIRE.
is also an excellent garden wall, to the erection of which the pre-
sent incumbent contributed a considerable proportion, and thus
rendered it much superior to what the heritors were bound by
law to erect. *
The extent of the glebe, inclusive of the site of the manse and
garden, is 9 acres; its value about L. 12 per annum. The sti-
pend amounts to L.I 58, 6s. 8d., and is made up of the fiar prices
of 1 3 bolls, 2 firlots 3 pecks 1 -J lippy of oatmeal, and of 3 bolls
of bear, together with L. 60, 2s. 7^d. payable by the family of
Lee and Carnwath, and L. 83, 11s. 1 ^d. payable by the Exche-
quer. The minister has right to twelve days' casting of peats in
the Borland Moss, and four days' casting of turf on the Borland
Moor, which servitudes have not been allowed to go into desue-
tude.
There is at Elsrickle a small chapel fast hastening to a state
of ruin. It belonged to the Antiburghers. They called a mi-
nister in 1760, who officiated there on a scanty subsistence till
his death in 1791. Since that time, the congregation has joined
the Established Church or the Dissenters at Biggar.
The number of persons of all ages connected with the Esta-
blished Church is 313; of whom there are on an average 138 com-
municants. Consequently, the number of persons of all ages at-
tending the chapels of Dissenters and Seceders are 173; there
being two Roman Catholics. Of these 81 are communicants.
Divine service at the Established Church is generally well at-
tended.
Education. — There is one parochial school, and one supported
partly by fees, and partly by the contributions of heads of families.
The parochial school is at Walston ; the other at Elsrickle.
The branches generally taught are, reading, writing, and arith-
metic ; and geography, algebra, and Latin are also taught ; but
the number learning the two latter do not amount to more than
three or four on an average. The parochial teacher attended
college for two sessions. His salary is L. 30 per annum ; and
* This is noticed here without the smallest intention of reflecting upon the heri-
tors of this parish, who have not only fulfilled their legal obligations without a mur-
mur during the writer's incumbency, though these, from the wretched state in
which the church and manse were at its commencement, amounted to a considerable
sum, but on all occasions acted towards him in the most liberal manner; but
that those who come after him may know that he has done something to add to
their comfort, and to beautify the place, and may be led to do more for their suc-
cessors than his predecessors did for him. At his entrance the buildings were rui-
nous, and the glebe scourged after getting a bad name. Things are now somewhat
altered for the better.
WALSTON. 865
the amount of school fees from L. 10 to L. 11. He has the legal
accommodations, with the exception of a garden, in lieu of which
he receives L. 2, 2s. annually. The teacher of the Elsrickle
school has attended college one session ; and his emoluments
may be valued at about L. 30 yearly. The fees at both schools
for reading, writing, and arithmetic conjoined, are 3s. per
quarter. All between the ages of six and fifteen can read and
write, or are learning to do both. The people are in general
very much alive to the benefits of education ; the best proof of
which is the existence of a school at Elsrickle, where the children
of the south side of the parish are nearly half-educated before
they reach the age when they could attend, especially in winter,
at Walston, not from the distance, but from the necessity of cros-
sing the hill in that inclement season. Both schools are well
taught.
Library. — A parochial library was commenced in 1814; and
at present consists of 500 volumes, which have been carefully se-
lected, and, as their appearance indicates, read with much assiduity.
Friendly Society. — There is a Friendly Society, which was in-
stituted in 1808, and is not confined to parishioners. It is in a
flourishing condition, and must have been beneficial in its effects,
promoting economy, and cherishing the feeling of independence
in the district.
Savings' Bank. — A Savings' Bank was instituted at Biggar in
1832, in which a few of the parishioners of Walston have from
time to time invested small sums.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The amount of collections in
church on an average of the last ten years is L. 6, Os. 8jd. yearly.
A trifling addition is annually made to this sum by money re-
ceived for the use of a mortcloth, and a small charge on procla-
mations of banns. The only other fund available for th^ relief
of the poor is the interest of two thousand merks, mortified by
the Baillies, the former proprietors of the parish ; and for which
there is an heritable bond, of date 15th January 1720, granted
by George Lockhart of Carnwath to the minister and kirk-session,
and sasine thereon, registered at Edinburgh 20th February 1720,
in the 115th Book of the New General Register of Sasines, pp;
221, &c. What further is required for the relief of the poor is
made up by voluntary contributions from the heritors according to
their valued rents. In general, 4d. per pound of valued re::t,
amounting to L. 20, 10s. llfd., has been found more than sufii-
866 LANARKSHIRE.
cient. On one or two occasions, however, within the last few
years, a voluntary contribution of 6d. per pound of valued rent
has been required. Out of this sum, however, it ought to be
mentioned that several carts of coals are yearly paid for to per-
sons not on the poor's roll, which are driven gratuitously by the
farmers. The deserving poor are backward to apply for parochial
relief; but here, as elsewhere, those of a different description are
sufficiently ready to make application.
Inns. — An inn has lately been set up on the confines of the
parish, on the Edinburgh and Dumfries road, where such accom-
modation was much wanted for travellers. Hitherto it has had no
perceptible bad effects on the morals of the people, from most of
whom it is at a considerable distance.
Fuel. — The fuel consists chiefly of coal brought from a distance
of about ten miles. Peat, however, is still in use, and dug in con-
siderable quantities.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
This parish has undergone a favourable change since the for-
mer Statistical Account was drawn up. Fences of thorn Have
grown up, and stone dikes have been built — many acres, as already
mentioned, have been added to the arable land by draining and
improving moss — and the climate in the low grounds must have
been benefited by this last improvement — a commencement of
plantation has been made in the west end of the parish, and the
growth of the trees affords every encouragement to persevere.
Some good slated houses have lately been erected at Elsrickle, on
feus granted by Mr Woddrop. The gross rental is stated in the
former Account to have been L. 700 per annum. It is now
L. 2046.
Much still remains to be done in draining, fencing, and plant-
ing. The last particularly is needed, and would in a few years
amply repay the expense. The cottages in general ought to
be made more comfortable. While the inmates are in the vigour
of life, and in the enjoyment of health, they may be less sensible
of the defects of their habitations ; but when they are labouring
under disease, or the infirmities of age, more particularly in winter
and spring, they feel them but too severely. The improvements
necessary to render them more comfortable could be made at a
trifling expense ; and it is hoped that nothing more is necessary to
the accomplishment of this amelioration, than to call the attention
of the heritors of the parish generally to its necessity and import-
SYMINGTON. 867
ance to the great body of the people. How can those on whom
a bountiful God has bestowed an abundant portion of the good
things of this world, better demonstrate their gratitude to Him,
who has given them all, than by their attention to the necessities,
whether temporal or spiritual, of those to whom he has been less
bountiful, and whose comfort he has made in a great measure
dependent upon their care and kindness ? The blessings of the
poor, and of those who are ready to perish are highly valued by
every right thinking man, and they will not fail to descend upon
the head of those, who lay out a portion of their substance in im-
proving the dwellings where the sick and the aged await the will
of the Lord of all.
May 1840. Revised August 1840.
PARISH OF SYMINGTON.
PRESBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE.
THE REV. JOHN FORBES, MINISTER.*
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Situation, Extent, $c. — SYMINGTON is situated 30 miles south-
west from Edinburgh, and 33 miles south-east from Glasgow. The
parish is 3 miles in length and 1^ miles in breadth. It is bounded
on the north and east by the Clyde ; on the south by the parish of
Wiston ; and on the west by the parishes of Carmichael and Co-
vington.
The arable land lies along the banks of the Clyde, and the pas-
ture reaches to the top of Tinto, on which there is a cairn of
stones, said to be the remains of a Druidical temple. This moun-
tain, though not the highest in Scotland, yet being about 2400
feet above the level of the sea, commands a beautiful and most
extensive prospect : With the naked eye, you can see part of sixteen
different counties. The village is situated at the foot of a rising
ground, called the Castle-hill, which has formerly been a place of
strength, and is now planted with various kinds of trees.f
Name. — The parish of Symington is said by Chalmers in his
* Drawn up from Notes furnished by Mr John Bell, Parochial Schoolmaster of
Symington.
Old Statistical Account.
Jirt*
868 LANAUKSH1RE.
Caledonia to have derived its name from Symon Loccard, who
lived during the reign of Malcolm IV. and William the Lion ;
who, having obtained a grant of this territory, called the place of
his settlement Symons-toun. He adds, " in the charters of the
twelfth and thirteenth centuries, it is called Symon's town ; " villa
Symonis ;" and more specially sc villa Symonis Loccard" The
name of Symonstown was afterwards abbreviated to Symontoun ;
and in modern times the name has been corrupted to Symingtoun
The parish of Symontoun in Kyle derived its name from the
same Symon Loccard, who was the progenitor of the Lockharts
of Lee, and other families of the same name. The manor of
Symonstoun in Clydesdale continued in possession of the descen-
dants of Symon Loccard till the reign of Robert L, when it passed
to Thomas, the son of Richard, who assumed from it the local sur-
name of Symontoun ; and the family of Symontoun of Symontoun
continued to hold this barony till the seventeenth century, when it
returned to the Lockharts. Symon Loccard, the first settler,
erected at Symonstoun a chapel, which for some time was subor-
dinate to the church, which was called" Wudekirk" or Wodekirk, the
parochial district of which comprehended the territories of Tan-
cardstoun and Symonstoun. The abbot and monks of Kelso, in-
deed, claimed the chapel of Symonstoun as a dependent of the
church of Wicestoun ; and they prevailed in this unfounded claim,
by obtaining a resignation of the chapel, upon the condition, that
the chaplain presented by Symon Loccard should hold possession
of it during his life. The monks of Kelso»acquired a better found-
ed right to the chapel of Symonstoun, by' obtaining a grant of the
church, which was called Wudekirk, to which it was certainly sub-
ordinate. Before the year 1232, the territory of Symonstoun was
detached from Wodekirk, and established a distinct parish, and
the chapel of Symonstoun was made a parish church. The church
of Symonstoun continued to belong to the monks of Kelso till the
Reformation. The monks enjoyed the rectorial revenues; and a
vicarage was established for serving the cure. An account of the
property of the monks of Kelso, which was made up by the
monks themselves some time between 1309 and 1316, states that
they had the church of Symonstoun " in rectoria," which used to
be worth L. 19 yearly. In Bagimont's Roll, the vicarage of
Symonstoun in the deanery of Lanark, was taxed L. 2, 13s. 4d.
being a tenth of the estimated value of its spiritual revenues. At
the Reformation, William Symontoun of Hardington held a lease
SYMINGTON. 868
of the revenues of the vicarage of Symonton, for the payment of
L. 30 yearly : And he was, moreover, obliged to get the service
of the church duly performed. After the Reformation, the patron-
age, tithes, and church lands of the parish church of Symontoun
belonged to the commendators of the monastery of Kelso, till
1607, when they were granted with the other property of that
establishment to Robert Lord Roxburgh. The patronage of this
church was resigned by the Earl of Roxburgh to Charles L, and
it was afterwards conceded to Sir James Lockhart of Lee, who
purchased from Baillie of Lammington, the barony of Symontoun,
which had belonged to his ancestors, in the twelfth and thirteenth
centuries. The barony and the patronage of the church passed
from Lockhart of Lee to Lockhart of Carnwath, at the end of the
seventeenth century. The patronage of the church of Symontoun
now belongs to Lockhart of Lee and Carnwath.
Boundaries, fyc. — The parish is bounded on the north and east
by the River Clyde ; on the south-west, by the parish of Wiston ;
on the north-west, by the parishes of Carmichael and Covington.
The figure of the parish is oblong, though somewhat irregular
on the west side.
Hydrography. — The parish abounds with springs, both peren-
nial and intermittent. The only river is the Clyde, which bounds
one-half of the parish, running nearly north, and then turning to
the west.
Plantations. — The plantations are mostly of Scotch fir and
larch : the latter of which seems to suit the soil best, but none of
the trees have yet grown to any great size. A few hard-wood trees
of different kinds surround the village.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Land-owners. — The chief land-owners are, Mr Dickson of
Hartree ; Mr Carmichael of Eastend ; and Colonel Campbell of
Symington Lodge.
Parochial Registers. — These consist of the records of the kirk-
session, a register of births, and accounts of the poor! commencing
in the year 1709 ; but neither of them have been regularly kept
nor well preserved.
Antiquities. — There are the remains of an ancient camp of a
circular form on the top of an eminence, about a quarter of a mile
south of the village, called Castle-hill, containing nearly half an
acre. Some say that it was the site of a castle, of which nothing
now remains. It is now planted with trees.
LANARK. 3K
870 LANARKSHIRE.
There are other remains of camps in the parish, but none of
them so entire. There were found a few years ago, in a tumulus
at the bottom of Tinto, on the east side, some bones of a human
body, but not the skull ; and as the grave was shorter than the
ordinary dimensions, it was supposed that the body had been bu-
ried after being decapitated. About a quarter of a mile north
from this, another tumulus was opened aboqt the same time, and
in it were found two urns, one of which was broken by the work-
men. The preserved one fell into the hands of Mr Carmichael,
Younger of Eastend. About fifty yards north from the village,
in an enclosure, the plough still turns up occasionally stones with
lime adhering to them, where there has been a building, (said to
have been called the Place,) understood to have been the residence
of Symington of Symington. The moat is still visible on all sides ;
and although the field has been long cultivated, some old people
recollect of part of a building standing.
On Tinto, a little above the base on the south-east side, there
are the remains of an ancient castle, called Fatlips : a piece of
the wall, about two yards high, is still standing : its thickness is
fully six feet, and it adheres so firmly, that persons building a
stone fence lately chose rather to quarry stone than take them
from the wall, *
III. — POPULATION.
Amount of population in 1801, - 308
1811, . 364
1821, - 472
1831, - 489
Population in the village, - 244
country, - - 235
In the whole parish at this time, total, - 479
The yearly average of births, \'j**~- - 16
deaths, 12
marriages, 4
The average number under 15 years of age, - 192
betwixt 15 and 30, - 103
30 and 50, - 93
50 and 70, - 71
upwards of 70, 20
Number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50, but none
of them resident, - - - - 5
Number of unmarried men upwards of 50 years :
bachelors, . •»'.'>. 1
widowers, - 6
Number of unmarried women upwards of 45 years of age, 12
widows; - - ')•».•.' 8
Number of families in the parish in 1831, - - ... 106
chiefly employed in agriculture, 40
trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 42
* Vide Chambers's Picture of Scotland.
SYMINGTON. 871
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. —
Number of acres in the parish, arable, Scotch measure, - - 1953
which never have been cultivated, - - 688
Very few acres of these could be brought under cultivation with a profitable
application of capital.
Number of acres under wood, Scotch fir and larch, - - - ' 113
Rent. — The average rent of arable land per acre is L. 1, 2s. 6d.
The average rent of grazing per cow, L. 3.
Wages. — The common rate of labour per day in winter is Is. 6d.,
in summer, 2s. ; mason per day in summer, 3s. ; carpenter per day
in summer, 2s. 6d.
Great attention is paid to the Ayrshire breed of cows, and the
Clydesdale breed of horses; and husbandry is carried on with
great spirit, in the best manner, and with great economy.
Nineteen years form the general duration of the leases.
Produce. —
The supposed value of all kinds of grain, - L. 2685 7 6
Potatoes, turnips, &c. - - - 1028 0 0
Hay, ... 411 0 0
Pasture land, at per cow, L. 3, - 829 0 0
Thinning of plantations, - 30 0 0
Total, L. 4983 7 6
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Market-Town, fyc. — Biggar, the nearest market-town, is distant
three miles ; it is also the nearest post-town. The length of
turnpike roads in the parish is about four miles. A coach run-
ning between Edinburgh and Dumfries passes through the parish.
There is one bridge over the Clyde, which joins the parishes of
Culter and Symington, and along which passes the road between
Lanark and Biggar.
Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is in
the centre of the parish ; and the greatest distance from it is about
a mile and a-half. It is not exactly known when the church was
built, but it underwent extensive repairs in 1761, and an addition
was built about twenty years ago. The old part is now going fast
out of repair. It accommodates about 300 sitters ; and about 30
of the seats are free. The manse was built in 1790 ; it was re-
paired and received an addition in 1838. The glebe is 10 acres
in extent, and the value about L. 15. The amount of the stipend
is the minimum. Almost all the parishioners attend the parish
church. The number of communicants is about 220.
Education — There is but one school in the parish, the paro-
872 LANARKSHIRE.
chial. Salary, the maximum ; fees about L. 15. The teacher
has the legal accommodations.
Library. — There is one parochial library.
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor this year is 1 1,
four of these have families, 4, 2, 4, 5, in all, 15 children; the 11
have at an average Is. 5^d. per week. It may be said the poor
are yearly increasing. There is a legal assessment for their sup-
port, the collections at the church not being sufficient. The poor
do not consider it in the least degrading to seek relief.
Inns. — There is one small inn on the road between Lanark and
Biggar.
Fuel — Coals are procured at Rigside and Ponfigh, the former
in the parish of Douglas, and the latter in the parish of Carmi-
chael : distance ten miles ; expense, 13s. 6d. per ton.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Great advances have been made in husbandry since the Car-
lisle and Stirling road was made through the parish, which passes
through Lanark, and opens up a fine market for produce ; and if
the proposed rail-road from the south passes through the village,
at which the branches from Glasgow and Edinburgh are to meet,
the village will probably become a general depot, and speedily
receive a great increase of inhabitants.
July 1840.
UNITED PARISHES OF
COVINGTON AND THANKERTON.*
PRESBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE.
THE REV. THOMAS WATSON, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. — THE writer of the former Statistical Account of this
parish states the name Covington to be a corruption of Convent-
town, without giving any reason for this opinion. But, according
to Chalmers (Caledonia, iii. 747), the old parish and barony of
Covington was called Colbanstoun in the charters of the twelfth
* Drawn up from Notes furnished by Mr Archibald Stodart, Covington Hill-head.
COVINGTON AND THANKERTON. 873
and thirteenth centuries ; the name being obviously derived, he
says, from a person named Colban, who settled there and gave his
name to the place. In subsequent times, this name appears in
the different forms of Cowanstown, Coventoun, and Covington.
The parish of Thankerton is said to have derived its name from
a Flemish settler of the name of Tancard, who obtained a grant
of lands therein during the twelfth century. In the charters of
the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, it is called Tankards-toun,
villa Tanhardi, villa Thankardi. The same Tankard, or another
individual of the same name, obtained from Malcolm IV. a grant
of lands in the lordship and parish of Bothwell, where he settled,
and to which he gave the same appellation — Tankardstoun.
Extent, Boundaries, fyc. — The united parish extends in length
from south to north 4 miles, and its breadth is about 2f miles. It
is bounded on the east by the Clyde, which separates it from the
parish of Libberton ; on the west, by Carmichael ; on the south,
by Symington and Wiston ; and on the north, by Pettinain.
The mineralogy, zoology, and botany of this parish are so simi-
lar to those of the neighbouring parishes of Carmichael and Petti-
nain, that it is unnecessary to enter into the details. Trout and
pike of large size are found in the Clyde, which winds along the
eastern boundary.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
Thomas de Colbanstoun witnessed a charter of William the
Lion at Lanark in 1188. In 1296, Margaret de Colbanstoun,
Isabel de Colbanstoun, and Edmund de Colbanstoun swore fealty
to Edward I. In the reign of Robert I., the lands of Colbanstoun
were acquired by Sir Robert de Keth, Marischal of Scotland, and
they were held by his descendants for more than a century. From
that family the lands and barony of Colbanstoun, with the patron-
age of the church, passed to a branch of the .family of Lindsay be-
fore 1442 ; and the Lindsays of Colventoun or Coventoun held
this property for two centuries and a half. One of this family
built the castle or fort, the massive ruins of which are still to be
seen not far from the church. A short time before the Revolu-
tion, the barony of Covingtoun, with the patronage of the church,
was purchased from Lindsay of Covington by Sir George Lock-
hart of Carnwath, Lord President of the Court of Session.
The patronage of the church of Covington has been connected
with the territorial property from the twelfth century. In 1296,
Hurve de Chastel-Bernard, the parson of the church of Colban-
874 LANARKSHIRE.
stoun, swore fealty to Edward 1. In Bagimont's Roll, the rectory
of Covintoun, in the deanery of Lanark was taxed L. 4, being a
tenth of the estimated value of its spiritual revenues. In the south-
west of the old parish of Covintoun was formerly a chapel dedi-
cated to St Ninian, the patronage of which belonged to the pro-
prietor of the lands of Warrandhili.
The church of the old parish of Tancardstoun was dedicated to
St John, and hence it was called St John's Kirk. In the period
between 1175 and 1199, the monks of Kelso obtained from An-
neis de Brus a grant of the church of Tankardstoun called Wode-
kyrch) which was confirmed by the Bishop of Glasgow, and after-
wards by Symon Lockard. In the reign of Robert I. the rectory
of the church of Tancardstoun continued to belong to the monks
of Kelso ; but, as they received from it only an allowance of forty
shillings yearly, they appear to have afterwards relinquished it.
The parochial district of Wodekirk comprehended only the terri-
tory of Tancardstoun, and the church stood in the south-east cor-
ner of the parish, about a mile and a half from the village. The
lands and barony of Thankerton, with the patronage of the church,
belonged to Lord Fleming at the close of the reign of James V.
In Bagimont's Roll, the rectory of Thankerton was taxed at L.4.
Lands of considerable extent formerly belonged to the parish
church of Thankerton, which, at the Reformation, passed into lay
hands, and have since formed a property called St John's Kirk.
The two small parishes of Covington and Thankerton were united
some time between 1702 and 1720. The patronage of the united
parish belongs to Sir Norman Lockhart, as patron of the old pa-
rish of Covington, and Sir Windham Carmichael Anstruther, as
patron of the old parish of Thankerton, who present by turns.
It was at Covington Mill in this parish, that the celebrated co-
venanting clergyman, Daniel Cargill, was taken prisoner by Irvine
of Bonshaw, in the house of " Andrew Fisher, and his spouse, Eli-
zabeth Lindsay." He was executed at Edinburgh along with four
others in July 1681.
Land-owners. — The principal land-holders of this parish are,
Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart, Bart.; Sir Windham Car-
michael Anstruther, Bart. ; James Howieson, Esq. of St John's
Kirk ; and Michael Carmichael, Esq. of Eastend. There is only
one mansion-house in the parish, that of Mr Howieson of St
John's Kirk.
COVINGTON AND THANKERTON. 875
III. — POPULATION.
Population in 1755 was 521
1779 484
1791 470
1801 456
1811 438
1821 526
1831 521
No. of families in the parish, . ' . '. 106
chiefly employed in agriculture, 40
in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 42
IV. — INDUSTRY.
The number of acres in the parish which are either cultivated
or occasionally in tillage is about 2000. About 3500 acres are
pastured by black-faced sheep, which may be worth annually about
5s. 6d. per head. About 600 acres might be added to the cultivated
land, and might be kept in occasional tillage. And there are
about 80 acres of planted wood in the parish. The rent of land
varies from 2s. 6d. per acre to L. 2, 2s. The real rental of the
parish is supposed to be about L. 2500. Agricultural improve-
ments in this parish have kept pace with the progress of husbandry
in the neighbourhood. The old Scots plough, in general use
when the former Account was printed, is now laid aside ; furrow-
draining is practised to a considerable extent, and the turnip hus-
bandry and sown grasses are an important part of the agricultural
course. There is no land in the parish in a state of undivided
common.
Wages. — The wages of farm-servants are from L.10 to L. 12 a*
year, and of women-servants L. 6 or L. 7. Masons get at present
3s. 6d. a-day; common labourers Is. 6d. to Is. 8d.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
There are two villages in the parish, Thankerton and Coving-
ton. The bridge over the Clyde at Thankerton was built by
public subscription in 1778. The distance from Biggar, the near-
est post-town, is about three miles.
Fuel. — The fuel in universal use is coal, brought from a dis-
tance of about nine miles.
Education. — The parochial school is the only one in the parish :
it stands in the village of Covington. Salary of the master, L.28
per annum. Fees about L.I 6 per annum.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parishes of Covington and Thanker-
ton were united towards the beginning of last century, when the
old church of Thankerton was permitted to go to ruin, and an
addition made to that of Covington to contain the people of both
876 LANARKSHIRE.
parishes. The value of the stipend in 1755 was L, 56, 16s. 8d.;
1791, L. 80; in 1798, according to Chalmers, L. 112, 2s. 8d.
The extent of the glebe is about eight acres, and it may be worth
L.I, 10s. per acre. The manse, built about forty years ago, is
at present undergoing extensive repairs and additions to its ac-
commodation.
Poor. — The number of poor who received parochial aid for
the year ending November 1838 was 12. The amount of con-
tributions for their relief for that year were L. 30, lls. Ifd. ; of
which L. 8, 8s. 2d. were from church collections; L.I 6, 8s. from
interest of stock ; L. 5, 10s. l^d. from voluntary contribution by
the heritors; and the remainder from mortcloth, proclamation,
and other dues.
Mortification. — In 1790, Mr James Scot, surgeon in Peebles,
mortified one acre and one rood of land in the neighbourhood of
that town, for educating poor children belonging to the parish of
Covington.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
At the period when the former statistical report of this parish
•was published, there were not more than 630 acres in tillage.
There are now nearly 2000. The rental of the parish in 1791
was L. 920 per annum ; it is now about L. 2500. The farm-
houses and offices are of a better description than formerly ; and
the farmers are intelligent and enterprising. There is still, how-
ever, a want of wood in the parish ; and much might be done by
a judicious arrangement of belts of planting, to improve the climate,
and shelter the inclosures.
September 1840.
PARISH OF EAST KILBRIDE.
PRESBYTERY OF HAMfLTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR.
THE REV. HENRY MONCREIFF, MINISTER.
I. — TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
. — THE last syllable of the word Kilbride is a contraction
for Bridget or Brighid, the Gaelic name of a saint, greatly famed
in the legends of the Church of Rome. Disputes have been rais-
ed as to the place of her nativity, and it was supposed by Arch-
bishop Usher, that there might be two saints of the same name,
one belonging to Ireland, and the other to Scotland. However
this may be, many places in Scotland have been dedicated to St
Bridget. It is probable that the church of East Kilbride was ori-
ginally one of the buildings erected in honour of her. The syl-
lable Kit comes from Cil) a Gaelic word for a church or barying-
place ; and the name signifies the church or burying-place belonging
to St Bridget. The parish is called East Kilbride, to distinguish
it from West Kilbride, in the county of Ayr.
Boundaries, Extent, Situation, Topography, §*c. — The village
of East Kilbride is seven miles distant from Glasgow, as the crow
flies. By the best and most frequented road, the distance is
nearly eight miles. The position of the village may be represented
as rather more than six miles and a half to' the south, and some-
what more than a mile and a half to the east, of the western me-
tropolis. The most northern point of the parish lies about a mile
to the north-east of Kittockside, which has been described as the
pleasantest village in it, and which is not far from its north-
western boundary. This point is about four miles from Glas-
gow, as the crow flies, and about two miles to the west of the
point at which the parish is most frequently entered, and which is
situated about six miles from Glasgow by the main road, a short
way to the north of the village of Nerston, the name of which
is a contraction for North- East Town. The circumference of
the parish is very irregular and undulating in its outline. In
other respects, the shape is that of a sand-glass, the breadth in
878 LANARKSHIRE.
the northern and southern portions being considerable, while it is
very much diminished towards the centre. A line drawn across
the northern half of the sand-glass, through its centre from east
to west, would give a breadth of very nearly five miles. From the
north-western corner, near which the road from Kilb^ide to Bus-
by enters the parish of Carmunnock, to the north-eastern corner,
which is not far from being in a direct line eastward, the distance
is about five miles and a half ; the breadth is nowhere else so great.
At one part of the southern half of the sand-glass, the distance is
about five miles from a point on the east, at which a bye-road,
leading from the direct Strathavon and Kilbride road towards a
place called Blackburn, crosses the Powmillon rivulet, to the point
on the west where the road from Alderstocks to Eaglesham enters
the parish of Eaglesham. In the centre of the parish, at the nar-
rowest part, the breadth is not so much as two miles and a half,
and, at the south end, it is only three miles. From the most
southern point beyond Browncastle, a place considerably farther
south than Strathavon, to the most northern already mentioned,
the distance is nine miles and three-quarters, being the extreme
length of the parish. The number of square miles is 35.50.
East Kilbride is in the middle ward of Lanarkshire, and is
bounded on the north by the parishes of Carmunnock and Cam-
buslang; on the east, by Blantyre, Glassford, and Avondale ; on
the south, by Avondale and Loudon ; and on the west, by Lou-
don, Eaglesham, and Carnujnnock.
The least elevated ground in the parish is at Crossbasket, the seat
of Alexander Downie, Esq. which lies on the road leading from Kil-
bride by Blantyre to Hamilton, about half a mile from the north-
eastern corner, close to the border of Blantyre parish, and about
200 feet above the level of the sea. The highest ground is the
top of Eldrig, a hill situated about the centre of the western side
of the southern half of the sand-glass, extending into Eaglesham,
and about seven miles distant from Crossbasket in a direct line.
Its height is at least 1600 feet above the sea. From Crossbasket
to Eldvig there is a gradual ascent, consisting of a regular succes-
sion of small hills, with very little level ground between them. A
considerable part of the parish is moor-land, which commences
about two miles to the north of Eldrig, and continues a conside-
rable way down the south side of the ridge where Kilbride borders
with Loudon. Eldrig is the highest part of that ridge formed by
the hills in Eaglesham, Mearns, Neilston, &c.
KILBRIDE.
4
The most direct road from Glasgow to Strath avon passes
through the village of Kilbride. It takes its course within the
parish for nearly five miles from its entrance into it out of Cam-
buslang parish, at the north of Nerston, to its exit from it in a
south-eastern direction into Glassford parish at the bridge over
the Calder, where that stream forms the southern boundary of
Torrance, the estate of the principal proprietor. This road is very
hilly, but otherwise excellent, being wide and kept in good repair.
Hydrography. — There are four streams deriving their origin
from this parish, of sufficient consequence to deserve our notice.
The Powmillon rises in the neighbourhood of Gladdens and
Dykehead, towards the eastern side of the southern portion of the
parish. It flows in a south-easterly direction, and for about two
miles it nearly forms the eastern boundary. When it reaches
the south-eastern corner, it runs into Avondale parish, and, after
passing through the town of Strathavon, joins the Avon at no
great distance.
The Kittock rises in the northern portion about two miles to
the southward of the village of Kilbride. It has its origin in a
marsh commonly called Kittock's eye ; it runs by the villages of
Kilbride and Kittockside, passes the house of Piel, and joins the
Cart beyond Busby ; to which place the north-western boundary
of the parish anciently extended, and still extends in relation to
its civil affairs ; though, as regards spiritual matters, the lands of
Busby are now included in Carmunnock.
The White Cart and the Calder both originate in Eldrig.
The Calder runs within the parish in a north-easterly direction
for more than seven miles. From the central and- narrowest part
of the parish till it reaches Crossbasket, it is nearly coincident
with the eastern boundary. Its banks, as it passes through the
woods of Torrance and Calderwood, present scenes of no ordinary
interest. Among these woods it takes its course in a variety of
beautiful meanders. Directly opposite to Calderwood House it
has formed a natural cascade at the distance of about 200 yards.
It is impossible here to do justice either to the natural beauties
of Calderwood in connection with this river, or to the taste and
well-directed zeal of its present proprietor, Sir William Alexander
Maxwell, Bart., as displayed in his exertions to make them appear
to the best advantage by the assistance of human art. It is suffi-
cient to say that the highest expectations will not be disappointed.
The situation of Crossbasket is also extremely picturesque. After
880 LANARKSHIRE.
leaving Crossbasket, the Calder mainly follows, though its course
is broken by irregular windings, the boundary line between Cam-
buslang and Blantyre parishes for about three miles, till it reaches
the confines of old Monkland parish, and there joins the Clyde.
The White Cart, after leaving Eldrig, forms the western boun-
dary for more than four miles northward. About half a mile di •
rectly to the west of Jackton, the most western village in the pa-
rish, it meets Carmunnock parish, and bounds it on the west for
about five miles. It then leaves Carmunnock about a mile from
the church of Cathcart, and after passing close to that church, it
turns westward, runs by Pollockshaws to Paisley, and is finally
discharged into the Clyde between the parishes of Renfrew and
Inchinnan.
The water of the wells in the village of Kilbride and the im-
mediate vicinity is, for the most part, calcareous. In the other
parts of the parish, the water is generally of the same character
where the wells are deep.
Climafe, $c. — The prevailing wind is from the south-west.
There is more humidity in the atmosphere of the upper and more
southern parts of the parish, than in that of the lower and more north-
ern. The quantity of rain which falls annually in the former por-
tion is considerably greater. The climate is rather cold, from the
elevation. The frost sets in early, and continues late. But the air
is, on the whole, pure and bracing. The tendency of the parish in
regard to the health of its inhabitants has probably undergone a
considerable change for the better within the last thirty or forty
years, in consequence of the improvements that have been made
in agriculture. In the course of twenty years previous to the pre-
sent, there have only been two occasions on which fever has spread
among the people, and only one in which it prevailed to any great
extent. It is a remarkable circumstance, with which I have been
made acquainted by a most competent medical witness, viz. George
Espie, Esq. M. D. Brousterland, that, in the year preceding that
in which Asiatic cholera was first known to be prevalent in this
country, there occurred upwards of thirty cases in the parish of
East Kilbride, of a character such as would now be considered to
indicate the presence of that frightful malady. In the year 1832
itself there were only one or two instances of the disease. Con-
sumption is not unfrequently to be met with in this parish. But
I am not aware of any complaint so specially prevalent in it as to
merit particular notice.
EAST KILBRIDE. 881
Geology and Mineralogy.* — The parish of East Kilbride forms
part of that vast accumulation of coal, limestone, and iron, inter-
minorled with irrupted igneous rocks of the trap series, which cross
the island in a belt from the coast of Ayrshire, opposite the Isle
of Arran in the west, to the mouth of the Frith of Forth in the
east. The great coal beds in the parishes of Hamilton, Bothwell,
and the Monklands, to the east and north, geologically speaking,
lie higher in the series, and above the lime beds of Kilbride. The
coals which lie above the limestone are, therefore, too high up in
the series to be found in this parish, and the coals which lie at the
bottota of the limestone formations, as at Ponfeich in Carmichael,
are too far down to be reached here : the parish of Kilbride, there-
fore, does not abound in coal of the best quality. At Blacklaw,
or Mount Cameron, there are two seams of coal. The first seam
is about three feet thick, and between it and the lower seam,
which is two feet thick, there are six fathoms of freestone. The
dip is south. In other places coal also has been found ; but it is
only of the inferior sort which occurs in the middle limestone se-
ries, and is used chiefly for burning lime. Coal for culinary and
household purposes is chiefly brought from neighbouring parishes,
where it is found above the lime.
Limestonef rocks of various sorts abound in this parish, and, as
in other places in the west of Scotland, occur chiefly in plies or
beds of from 3 to 7 or 1 0 feet in thickness. At Shields, limestone is
wrought within a gunshot of a whinstone quarry, and all along the
western borders of, and towards the boundaries of the parish with Ren-
frewshire and Ayrshire, limestone with greenstone are much inter-
* This part of the Account has been furnished by the Rev. William Patrick.
f,ln the Account of the parish of Blantyre, which borders on this parish to the north
and east, a fuller and more detailed description of the geology of this district will be
found. In connection with the geology of both parishes the following facts deserve no-
tice : At Mauchlane Hole the river Calder winds along the base of a precipice, in which
at least ten distinct beds of ironstone may be traced for a considerable'distance. These
several beds, of an average thickness of 5 or 6 inches, are separated by beds of
schist, containing nodules of ironstone, along with many fossil and vegetable impres-
sions, with the productus and euomphahis in great abundance. The upper portion of
this escarpment is formed of freestone, and also of coal-sandstone, with vegetable im-
pressions. In this same formation coal has been wrought at the same height near
Mauchline Hole. The bed of the Calder here is a deep watef-worn passage exca-
vated through thick plieS of calcareous rocks, and from many trials made they seem
to be at least 6 feet thick. If we connect these appearances with some of the anvil-
ball sections on the Calder, near Calder wood, it results that the coal alternates with
the beds of limestone containing numerous fossils of the transition period. The same
phenomena reproduced, according to M. Dufrenoy, near Alston-Moor, in Cumber,
land, would lead to the conclusion, that the Glasgow coal-field belongs to the very
lowest of the carboniferous strata. From its connection also with the old red sand-
stone at Lanark, and the Leadhills greywacke, this is perfectly obvious.
882 LANARKSHIRE.
mingled. At Allerton farm, in the bed of the Cart, limestone is seen
dipping in below the igneous rocks, at an angle of 40° west ; a little
below, ironstone occurs above the limestone at an angle of 8° north.
At Allerton, the limestone is all lying on its edge ; a clear proof
that it had been deposited before the eruption of the igneous rocks,
and afterwards disturbed by them. Limestone above the bridge at
Netherbridge dips 40° south. Limestone with greenstone alternates
frequently in the Cart, till it bounds this parish. Thornton Glen is
full of limestone. It is also wrought at Billhead, in the lands of Drip,
at Hall, and at Thornton. These are all one bed or post. The green-
stone comes in to the north. The limestone at Braehead is also cut
off by the whin at Carmunnock. In Shields quarry the limestone
seems to be on an anticlinal line, dipping east at 18°, and west at 5°.
At Newlands the limestone posts are nearly horizontal, the whole,
with the dip of the earth and shale above being only about 3°
north. As the plies here are very interesting, on account of the
appearance of Roman cement, we give them as follows : —
1. A layer of blaze, several feet in thickness, almost as hard as
clay-slate. 2. Roman cement, i. e. lime with ironstone 8 inches
thick. 3. Common slate-clay or blaze. 4. Limestone 2J feet thick.
5. Two inches of the same black hard blaze, as above the Ro-
man cement. Roman cement is also found at Clay-brae, Lime-
kilns, and Mossneuk, of the very best quality.
One remarkable feature in the lime deposits here is their con-
nection with the trap and other igneous rocks, which are some-
times seen above it, sometimes underneath it, and occasionally inter-
stratified with it. In some places the limestone is completely turn-
ed on edge, and in other places, as Hermyres, and at Shields, near
Newton, the rock is rent into wide perpendicular fissures, almost
the whole depth of the stratum.
The limestone when first denuded of its diluvial covering is full
of inequalities, and smooth and undulating as if water-worn.
These inequalities are generally observed to arise from the pre-
sence of shells and other marine products, which, being harder
than the lime, are not so easily rubbed or fretted away. The
whole affords a decisive proof of some great changes since the
limestone first began to be deposited ; but as to what these changes
were, their causes or amount, such inquiries belong entirely to
another branch of the science, and fall within the province of the
speculative geologist.
- Much interesting information may also be found on the lime-
EAST KILBRIDE. 883
works of Kilbride, in Mr Ure's History of Rutherglen and Kil-
bride.
The igneous rocks are mostly varieties of trap, with that vol-
canic-looking rock the Osmond stone, which abounds on the west
side of the parish. It is seen in great perfection about the head
of the Cart, particularly in a rock at Craigend facing the west, in
great amorphous masses ; some pieces like a compact whin. The
burn forming the west branch of the head of Cart rests entirely
on the Osmond stone. It is of a speckled greenish colour at the
bottom of the water, but where exposed to the air chiefly of a
grayish hue. In this locality it abounds with rolled balls of por-
phyritic trap. Down the water about a hundred yards, a blue trap
occurs much water-worn, which seems to be the rock on which the
Osmond is lying. The rocks about Millhouse are all of a coarse
trap conglomerate, or of the roughest sort of Osmond, and near
the mill a dike of pure trap runs through the Osmond, a pretty
plain proof that the trap is of a more modern date. The head of
Cart, formed by the junction of Torburn and Thriepland burn,
for a mile or two, is chiefly of Osmond. The dip, if it has any
true dip, appears generally at angle of 30° north. At Craigen-
fiech, the rocks of this formation are very high, perhaps forty or
fifty feet. The coarsest and roundest aggregate is always upper-
most, and the finest and most compacted below. It is from these
lowest portions of the accumulated mass that the stones for ba-
kers' ovens, and other purposes where the resistance to heat is re-
quired, are chiefly found. This mass of accumulated igneous
matter bears many marks of a volcanic origin. The heaviest and
densest portions of the aggregate are found below, and often bear
the marks of accumulated pressure, whereas the roundest and
lightest of the mass is above, and seems to have floated on the
other. Its pores or crevices are often filled with steatites, and
sulphate of barytes, and not unfrequently with calcareous spar, and
occasionally with zeolite. To the north this great mass of vol-
canic matter lies on limestone and slate-clay, and in the south
chiefly on blue trap. Its chief component part seems to be clay.
Acids do not affect it. It is harsh to the touch, and breaks with
uneven surfaces in all directions. It stands a great heat without
being rent or melted, and hence its use for bakers' ovens, &c.
This parish abounds with excellent freestone, which is interstra-
tified between the limestone and coals. There is an excellent quarry
884 LANARKSHIRE.
at Dalmuir, with a dip 5° west. Much of this stone is carried to
Eaglesham and other places, where the whinstone only occurs.
As Mr Ure has nearly exhausted the mineralogy of this district,
(although not very full on its geology,) it may be as well to give
the result of his labours in a tabular form.
Earths and Stones. — Argillaceous. — Potter's clay ; camstones ;
bluish pipe-clay ; black-grey till, with vegetable impressions ; fire-
clay, till full of entrochi, shells, &c. ; hard black slaty till ; un-
common till, called by the miners Maggy ; inflammable schistus ;
argillaceous breccia ; Osmond stone ; white steatites ; sulphate of
barytes ; white fibrous zeolite, also compact and crystallized, or in
radiated crystals in till.
Calcareous. — Limestone replete with marine productions ; lime-
stone flag ; fine white limestone ; also reddish limestone, contain-
ing some iron ; limestone with selenite and manganese ; also lime-
stone spar, semitransparent, and of a rhomboidal form, sometimes
opaque, reddish, fibrous, pyramydical, prismatic, or in hexahedral
and truncated crystals. Lime is also found in the state of stalac-
tites and stalagmites, and in incrustations of various plants of the
class Cryptogamia.
Saxa silicia. — Quartz nodules ; whinstone containing felspar,
quartz, and shorl; petrosilex ; freestone; millstone grit ; coal;
petroleum ; pyrites in nodules, &c. &c.
Metallic substances. — Haematites; ironstone; calcareous iron-
stone, in tetrahedral prisms and in balls ; Ludus Helmontii ; sep-
taria, or waxen veins ; aetites, or eaglestone ; blood-red argilla-
ceous iron ore (keel), and galena at Eldridge.
Extraneous Fossils. — Vegetable Impressions. — Arundo, or bam-
boo of India; Equisetaceae ; impressions of ferns and roots of
plants ; branches of trees in a charred state in coal and freestone;
impressions of exotic pines ; impressions of the bark of oak in free-
stones, &c.
Marine Petrifactions. — Of univalve shells there occurs the Pa-
tella or limpet, Orthoceratites, Cornua Ammonis, smooth and round,
also flat ; Cochleae, Helices, chambered Nautilus, Turbo, Tere-
bra, Buccinum, Trochus, Serpula, Planorbis. Of bivalves there
occur the cockle, muscle, Anotnia laevis, with various other species
of Anomiae ; Conchae pilosae, Pecten, and various Echini. En-
trochi occur, including screwstones, fairy-beads, witch-beads, lime-
stone-beads, Astropodiae, with various siliceous substances con-
taining shells.
EAST KILBIIIDE. 885
Coralloides. — Junci Lapidei, Astroitae, Fungitae, Milleporas,
Escharae, and Retepori, or fan-coral.
Fishes' Teeth. — Plectronites, incisores, with many undescribed
species.
II. — CIVIL HISTORY.
According to the Chartulary of Glasgow, East Kilbride church
belonged to the Bishops of Glasgow, and was confirmed to them
by a bull from Pope Alexander III. in the year 1178; by another
from Pope Lucius III. in 1 181 ; and by another from Pope Ur-
ban III. 1186. From the same authority it appears, that Roger
de Valnois had a castle at East Kilbride in 1182 and 1189.
In the Taxed Bagimont's Roll, L.I 6 Scots is the sum fixed for
the ecclesiastical property in East Kilbride at the Reformation. Mr
John Stevenson, who was also chantor of Glasgow Cathedral, held
this parsonage, which was then worth L. 266, 13s. 4d. Scots per
annum, as appears from the MSS. Rental Roll in the Rotuli
Scotorum, fol. 8.
A most interesting volume was published in the year 1793, by
the late Rev. David Ure, A. M., (who was at that time a licen-
tiate of the Church of Scotland, who had for many years acted as
assistant to Mr David Connell, minister of the parish, and who was
afterwards himself the minister of the parish of Uphall,) entitled
" The History of Rutherglen and East Kilbride." The avowed
object of this work, as announced on its title-page, was to promote
the study of antiquity and natural history. The first and second
chapters of it relate to the civil history, antiquities, and general
circumstances of the burgh and parish of Rutherglen. In the
fifth and sixth chapters, the author treats of the natural history of
Rutherglen and East Kilbride in conjunction. The third and
fourth are devoted to the civil history, antiquities* and general
circumstances of East Kilbride. Mr Ure sent a compend of his
account of East Kilbride to Sir John Sinclair, which forms the
sixty-second number of the work with which that gentleman favour-
ed the public. But a perusal of the compend can furnish no ade-
quate idea of the value of Mr Ure's own publication. Its fulness
and accuracy are most remarkable, when the date of its composition
is considered. I am not aware that it has left anything to be sup-
plied in regard to the civil history of the parish before its author's
time, or in regard to the antiquities, except in so far as the condi-
tion of remains may have since been altered. The work was pub-
LANARK. 3 L
886 LANARKSHIRE.
lished in Glasgow by subscription, and there appear to havebeen
nearly nine hundred copies subscribed for.
Before the reign of King Robert Bruce, nearly two-thirds of
this parish belonged to the powerful family of the Cummins. The
whole was forfeited by the treachery of John Cummin, whom
Bruce killed at Dumfries. The same possessions were given, in
the year 1382, to John Lindsay of Dunrode, successor to. James
Lindsay, who assisted the king in killing the traitor. The Lind-
says, preferring their new possessions in Kilbride to their ancient
family seat, near Gourock, took up their residence in the parish.
It is reported that the last representative of this family was remark-
able for his haughtiness, oppression, and every kind of vice.
Among the instances of his cruelty it is told, that, when playing
on the ice, he ordered a hole to be made in it, and one of his vas-
sals, who had inadvertently disobliged him in some trifling cir-
cumstance, to be immediately drowned. The place has ever since
been called Crawford's Hole, from the name of the man who per-
ished in it. Tradition also mentions, that this haughty and cruel
chieftain was soon afterwards brought very low, and that, having
worn out the remains of a wretched life, he at length died in a
barn belonging to one of his former tenants. " Such," says Mr
Ure, " was the miserable end of one of the greatest and most
opulent families in this country."
The family of Lickprivick made a considerable figure long
before the reign of Robert Bruce. On account of singular
services, they obtained, in the year 1397, the heritable title of
Sergeantcy and Coronership in the Lordship of Kilbride, along
with considerable emoluments inseparable from it. The charter
was renewed to them by James I. of Scotland, James IV., and
James VI. More recently, the title, with the profits, became con-
nected with the estate of Torrance. One of the Lickprivick fa-
mily was printer to James VI. The name appears to have now
become extinct in this part of the country. Mr Ure mentions the
death of the last person bearing it, of whom he had heard, as having
taken place at Strathavon, a few years before he published his book.
The family of which the present Sir William A. Maxwell,
Bart, of Calderwood is the representative, may be traced back, in
their connection with this parish, and by the name of Maxwell, to
so early a period as the reign of Alexander III. The family, re-
presented by Miss Stuart of Torrance, the principal proprietor of
the parish, derive their origin, through the Stuarts of Castlemilk,
EAST KILBRIDE. 887
from Sir William Stuart, who is mentioned in Rymer's Foedera
Angliae as one of the sureties given on the part of Scotland, in
1398, for the preservation of the peace of the Western Marches
between England and Scotland ; and who, along with his brother,
Sir John Stuart of Darnley, went to France during the reign of
James I. of Scotland, and rendered such signal services to Charles
VII. of France, that they are mentioned with high encomiums by
many historians of those times.
The Maxwells of Calderwood and the Stuarts of Torrance
have frequently given to the nation men of distinguished ability,
who have honourably supported leading characters in the camp
or the court. Many of them have acted a conspicuous part both
in Europe and in the East and West Indies.
The parish of East Kilbride comprehends the ancient parish of
Torrance, the name of which is derived from Torran, the dimi-
nutive of Tor, " a mount." At the Reformation this parish was
held by the Hamiltons, (cadets of the family of Hamilton,) and
was leased for forty merks yearly. It probably embraced the estate
of Torrance, of which the Hamiltons were proprietors. Its name
was taken from an artificial mound of earth, still known by the
name of the Tor, which is situated about a quarter of a mile from
the present House of Torrance. It is about an hundred and sixty
yards round the base, and twenty of ascent. The area on the top
is of an oval shape, and there are some trees of considerable
height now standing upon it. The earth seems to have been ori-
ginally dug out on all sides evenly round the spot, in order to con-
struct it. It appears now in a plantation very near the modern
road from Kilbride to Strathavon. The old kirk of Torrance
stood about half a mile from the mansion-house, near the village
of Newhouse Mill, on the border of Blantyre parish. It was left
to fall into ruins after 1 589, and had been totally demolished long
before Mr Ure's time. He mentions that human bones were oc-
casionally dug up in what had been the adjoining burying-ground.
About twenty-five years ago, the tenant of Newhouse Mill farm
removed all the earth of this ancient churchyard, in order to en-
rich the soil of one of his fields. Mauchline Hole, or Calder
Glen, as it is now called, which has recently been united to the
estate of Calderwood, is said to have been the residence of the
rectors of Torrance. The records of the presbytery of Glas-
gow, in 1589, inform us, that the parish of Torrance was, in that
year, annexed to the parish of Kilbride, " as being a pendicle
thereof, and as next adjacent to the said kirk."
888 LANARKSHIRE.
The lands of Busby were detached from the parish of Kil-
bride, and annexed to Carmunnock, quoad sacra, in 1642, and
again in 1725.
In Popish times, the rector of East Kilbride was chantor to the
Cathedral of Glasgow. Wodrow in his history observes, that,
about the middle of the seventeenth century, the people of this
parish were greatly divided in their religious opinions. The Rev.
John Burnet was the Presbyterian minister at the Restoration,
and had then laboured for many years, with much popularity and
success. He was outed from his charge, and deprived of his liv-
ing, by the Act 1662. He was offered the indulgence in 1673,
not long before-his death. He was not so strongly opposed to this
measure as many of his brethren. But he felt it to be his duty to
decline the offer; and his reasons for not accepting of it, along with
his letter to the Duke of Lauderdale, are to be found among the
Testimonies of the Scots Worthies, as published at Glasgow in
1829. Wodrow says of him, that, " though he had no freedom
to fall in with the indulgence himself, yet he was very opposite to
division upon that score, and both heard the indulged minis-
ters, and pressed his people in Kilbride to do so ; that he had
been singularly useful in that parish, where there were a great
many Quakers and Separatists; and that, by the excellence of his
preaching and other labours, he had reclaimed the greater part of
them." From his death to that of Mr David Council, in 1790,
the people were united in religion. But, when a presentation from
the Crown, to supply the vacancy which that event occasioned,
was procured for Mr James French, then minister of Carmunnock,
a division took place, and a meeting-house was immediately built
in the village of Kilbride, in connection with the Relief body.
The name of Flakefield took its rise from a place called Flake-
field, in the southern division of this parish. A young man of the
name of Wilson went from Flakefield to Glasgow, and commen-
ced business as a merchant, about the middle of the seventeenth
century. To distinguish himself from another Wilson, who had
come with the same views from the same neighbourhood, he as-
sumed the name of Flakefield, which he ever afterwards retained.
This person's son was the means of giving rise to a very lucrative
and useful branch of business, by which the prosperity of Glasgow
was greatly advanced. A particular account of the circumstances
connected with the origin of that business is to be found in Mr
Ure's History.
EAST KILBRIDE. 889
The village of Kilbride was constituted a burgh of barony about
the end of Queen Anne's reign, and the inhabitants were em-
powered by the grant to hold a weekly market on Tuesday, be-
sides four fairs in the year. When the plague raged in Glasgow
the people in Kilbride, and in the neighbouring parts of the coun-
try, would not approach nearer the city with their marketable
goods than a hill about half a mile to the north of Kilbride, on
the old road to Glasgow, to which the inhabitants of Glasgow con-
sequently resorted, as a temporary market-place, and which has
ever since retained the name of the market-hill.
The parish of East Kilbride is remarkable for having been the
residence of Mrs Jean Cameron, a lady of a distinguished family,
whose zealous attachment to the exiled house of Stuart, and
whose active exertions for its interest, in 1745, made her well
known through Britain. Mr Ure gives a description of her cha-
racter and manners, as she appeared during the latter part of her
life, which is fitted to produce a most favourable impression. Af-
ter the public scenes in which she took a share were at an end,
she retired to a bleak and solitary spot, then called Blacklaw,
which is a small eminence about three-quarters of a mile south-
east from the village of Kilbride, where there was a neat and com-
modious dwelling-house. She there spent the remainder of her
days. She attended divine service in the parish church. She
died in 1773, and was buried amid a clump of trees on the south
side of the house in which she had lived. The trees appear to
have been since cut down, for though there are trees not far dis-
tant, the grave is now in an open field, and, while it is itself re-
spected, the ground close round it is regularly ploughed over. In
the year 1831, there was an old man resident in the parish, of
eighty-three years of age, from whom Dr Espie obtained the follow-
ing information regarding Mrs Jean Cameron, which he communi-
cated in a letter to a friend. The letter was afterwards printed in the
Edinburgh Literary Journal for October 1831, p. 227. The old
man, according to Dr Espie's account, had been a servant to the
late well-known Professor Miller of Glasgow, who resided at the time
at Whitemoss, a place within the parish, a short way to the east of
Kilbride, and who ordered this man to go to church early on the first
Sabbath after Mrs Cameron arrived, to prevent any of his tenant-
ry from occupying his seat, lest there might not be proper accom-
modation for her. He stated to Dr Espie that she had the farms
of Blacklaw and Roddenhead in her possession ; that she kept
830 LANARKSHIRE.
cows on Blacklaw, and lot the other farm ; that she was often a
visitor at Whitemoss, sometimes at Torrance, and at Calder-
wood ; and that she was highly respected by the neighbouring
gentry. He was at her funeral, and walked close after her bro-
ther from the house to the grave. About twenty years ago, a te-
nant of Blacklaw opened her grave, in the hope of finding gold
ring's on her fingers, but was disappointed. The place has since
been known by the name of Mount Cameron.
Long Calderwood, a place about a mile and a half to the north-
east of the village of Kilbride, must always be peculiarly interesting
to literary and scientific men, as having been the birth-place of
Dr William Hunter, eminent both as a physician and as a scien-
tific inquirer ; and of his brother, Dr John Hunter, who, having
arrived at the head of his profession in London, distinguished
himself so greatly both by his medical investigations and in other
respects.
Land-owners. — The chief land-owners of the parish are,
Miss Stuart of Torrance; Lady Montgomery; Sir William Alex-
ander Maxwell of Calderwood ; and William Kippen, Esq. The
nearest gentleman's seat to the village of Kilbride is that of Pa-
trick Graham, Esq. of Limekilns ; but the greater part of his
property lies in other parishes. Property of considerable extent
in point of valuation is also held in the parish of Kilbride by the
Duke of Hamilton ; by Alexander Downie, Esq. of Crossbasket ;
and by John Reid, Esq. of Kittochside. There are 18 proprie-
tors, of whom each has land with above L. 100 Scots of valua-
tion. There are about 110 who possess land to a greater or a
less extent, or have such house property as to give them valuation.
Parochial Registers. — The oldest parochial register extant bears
to have been commenced on the 20th of March 1688. The first
register of a marriage is dated the 28th of that month. The first
register of a birth is dated the 1st of April of the same year.
The register has since been kept with tolerable regularity.
Antiquities. — In the neighbourhood of Kittochside, there were
two ancient fortifications, referred to by Mr Ure. They stood
on two hills, now known by the names of Castlehill and Rough-
hill. The former is on the north, and the latter to the south of
the Kittoch ; the distance between them is about 200 yards.
They have been so well described by Mr Ure, that it is unne-
cessary to say more here regarding them, than that since his time
the Castlehill has been beautifully covered with trees, and that
EAST KILBRIDE. 891
none of the stones remain on the top of the Rough -hill. It is
worth while, however, to mention a discovery which he made of
a celt or stone hatchet, lying not far from the ruins on the Rough-
hill. It was formed of a coarse kind of ironstone ; it was 6^
inches in length, and 3 in breadth at the face, but only 1 at the
other end.
The ruins of Mains Castle, once the extensive habitation of
the rich and powerful families of the Cummins and the Lind-
says of Dunrode, are about a mile to the north of the church and
village. They remain much in the same state in which they were
described by Mr Ure.
The mansion-house or Castle of Lickprivick stood about a
mile and a half to the south of the village. It was probably older
than most other buildings known to have existed in the parish.
About sixty years before Mr Ure's time, the whole of it was re-
duced to ruins. When be surveyed the spot, nothing remained
but some scattered rubbish. Even that last trace of it has now
completely disappeared. But the artificial mound of earth, not
far from the site of the building, still continues as a marked ob-
ject, being 14 feet in height, square at the top, with each side
measuring 12 yards.
In 1793, the remains of a very large cairn, called Herlaw or
Harelaw, were still to be seen on the farm of Rawhead, about the
centre of the parish. The site of it is nearly a mile distant from
the present farm of Harelaw. When Mr Ure wrote, some thou-
sand cart loads of stones had at different times been taken from
it, and some thousands then remained. The stones appeared to
have been gathered from the land. Many urns with fragments
of human bones were found in one corner of it, but none of them
were preserved. It was about 12 feet in height, and covered a
base of 70 feet in diameter. But its dimensions must have been
much greater when it was entire.
This cairn was entirely removed about the year 1808, and no
distinct remains of it appear on the little mound of earth which
was its base. The stones were used as materials in the erection
of fences. The spot is now planted with trees, and two or three
stones are lying imbedded in the grass, at what was formerly the
centre of the pile.
The remains of another cairn were to be seen in Mr Ure's
time at Lawknowe, near Mains Castle. It has now entirely dis-
appeared, and its site is occupied by a modern potato- house.
892
LANARKSHIRE.
This cairn was peculiar, from having in the bottom a circle of
large flags set on edge, not perpendicularly, but sloping a little
outward. They were of a hard gritty schistus, found plentifully
in the neighbourhood. It is to be regretted that Mr Ure's advice
has been neglected, that what still existed of this circle should be
allowed to remain as an example of the peculiarity, which is very rare.
Mansion-Houses, fyc. — There is no mansion-house in the parish
which is entirely modern, except that of Mr Kippen at Lawmuir.
The greater part of Crossbasket House is modern. Calderwood
House is now receiving an extensive and most beautiful addition.
Torrance House has been added to at different times. The old-
est part is about 500 years old. It may here be noticed, that the
property of Mains now belongs to the Torrance family, and that
a stone having the arms of Scotland cut upon it, which was for-
merly placed over a beautifully arched gate at the chief entry to
Mains Castle, by the drawbridge, was, about 100 years ago,
transferred by Colonel Stuart to the front of Torrance House,
above the entrance. Limekilns House has also been gradually
brought to its present state by successive additions. The House
of Kirktoun Holm, belonging to Sir Alexander Montgomerie
Cunningham, was a very elegant modern structure in the time of
Mr Ure ; but it is not occupied as a family residence at the pre-
sent day. Cleughern Lodge, belonging to Lady Montgomerie,
is a pleasant and convenient residence for shooting quarters.
The new manse, with its offices, is a very elegant modern building,
as well as a most comfortable habitation, which does great credit
at once to the taste and consideration of the heritors. It stands
very conspicuously at the south-east end of the village, close to
the Strathavon road.
III. — POPULATION.
The following table was taken by Mr Ure, from the session-
books, and shows the number of baptisms registered at each of
twelve separate dates from 1688 to 1790, inclusive.
Yearly.
Males.
Females.
Total.
1688,
27
20
47
1689,
25
» 22 0
47
1700,
21
16
37
1710,
*.? 23
30
53
1720,
17
31
48
1740,
26
30
56
1770,
30
25
*'-: 55
1780,
39
35 >
74
1785,
29
42
71
1788,
'• '-' 32
31 ;
63
1789,
31
34
65
1790,
30
32
62
EAST KILBRIDE. 893
No register of burials had then been kept in the parish, so that
the difference between the births and the burials could not be as-
certained. No accurate calculation, moreover, can be instituted
from the above table, as the children's names had not been uni-
formly enrolled. The return of the population made to Dr Web-
ster in 1755 was only 2029. Not very long before Mr Ure's
time, the upper part of the parish was greatly depopulated by the
accumulation of small farms into large ones. In 1793, he states
that the parish was inhabited by 587 families, which contained
2359 persons, of whom 1065 were males; 1294 females; and
488 children under six years of age. He likewise mentions that
the village of Kilbride consisted of 71 dwelling-houses, and was
inhabited by 167 families, containing 524 individuals.
Since 1793, a few additional limeworks, and the agricultural im-
provements, have probably contributed, in some small measure, to
produce the increase of population which has taken place. In
1821, there were about 890 inhabitants in the village or town of
Kilbride ; 225 in the village of Maxwellton ; about 30, who might
be regarded as a village population, in Nerston ; about 50 of the
same class in Jackton ; about 128 in the village of Busby, w"hich
belongs to East Kilbride, quoad civilia ; about 22 of a village po-
pulation in Kittochside ; about 40 of the same in Crossbill or
Aldhouse quarter; and about 2100 of a rural population in
the whole parish, quoad civilia.
In 1836, there appear to have been about 960 persons resident
in the village or town of Kilbride ; there were 267 in Maxwell-
ton ; and about 2380 in the rest of the parish, quoad sacra, that'
is, exclusive of the Busby quarter. The proportion between the vil-
lage and the country part of the population cannot have been much
altered since 1821, except as regards Kilbride and Maxwellton.
Males. Females.
In 1821, there were 525 children under 5 years of age, 282 243
414 between 5 and 10, . 221 193
384 10 and 15, ,;.. 199 185
366 15 and 20, 173 193
650 20 and 30,
426 30 and 40,
289 40 and 50,
195 50 and 60,
161 60 and 70,
52 70 and 80,
22 80 and 90,
1 female between 90 and 100.
316 334
220 206
152 137
93 102
63 98
23 29
9 13
* I regret that my data are not such as to enable me to give an accurate statement
of a similar kind, in regard to the present time. But, as the accuracy of the above
may be relied on, it may, when compared with the other data which I have furnish.
894 LANARKSHIRE.
The yearly average of baptisms is not equal to that of births,
for some children have remained unbaptised. But I am unable
to give a nearer approximation to the truth than what the following
statement, regarding the baptisms, may afford. The average num-
ber of baptisms yearly in the Established parish church for the last
seven years, as per session-books, has been 53f ; in the Relief
church, as furnished from accurate lists, by the Rev. Mr Cameron,
exclusive of the children of persons not living in the parish,
44; total, 97?.
It ought to be observed that, strictly speaking, a few more births
should be added, besides the unbaptised, as several born in Kil-
bride have been baptised in Eaglesham. This remark applies
principally to the Dissenters.
It appears from a list kept by the grave-digger, who is also
church-officer, and a person who may be relied on for accuracy,
that the yearly average number of burials in the parish church-
yard for the last seven years has been 71.
It appears from the parish register that the yearly average of
marriages for the same time has been 29^.
There are no nobility resident in the parish. There may be
from half a dozen to a dozen persons of independent fortune.
There are from SO to 90 proprietors of land of the yearly value
of L. 50 and upwards.
Character, fyc. of the People.- — A considerable portion of the
people are very poor. This is particularly the case in the village
of Kilbride, where there is a number of weavers, but no regular
manufactory to keep the people in employment. In the country
parts, the population are generally comfortable, industrious, con-
tented, and influenced by the religious habits of their forefathers.
There are many persons in the villages of most excellent character,
both intellectually, morally, and religiously.
Poaching in game, it is to be feared, prevails to a considerable
extent. Smuggling used to be prevalent, but is not so now.
There is no licensed pawnbroker, nor is there any reason to sup-
pose that the system of pawnbroking is carried on.
IV. — INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. — A considerable portion of the upper and southern
part of the parish has never yet been in tillage, but continues in a
ed, as to the comparative state of the population in 1821 and 1836, be of some use in
leading to an approximation to what is now the truth. It was made up by the
schoolmaster in June 1821.
EAST KILBIUDK. 895
mossy state. There can be no doubt that additions may hereafter
be advantageously made to the cultivated land. There is not
much undivided common in the parish.
Planting of trees has not proceeded to any great extent in East
Kilbride, except on the grounds of Torrance and Calderwood,
and on the ground belonging to Glasgow College. Within the
last two years, the College appears to have planted about fifteen
acres, and within twenty years previously, they must have planted
from twenty to thirty acres. Mr Ure says it is a mistake to sup-
pose that planting will not thrive in the cold climate of Kilbride,
because every house almost, even in the most exposed situations,
is surrounded with large trees, of various species. But then he
mentions that considerable attention was paid to the raising of
these trees. The soil was prepared by draining off the water. A
handful of oats was thrown into the bottom of the hole dug for
the young tree ; over these about an inch of good earth was laid ;
upon this, the roots of the plant were carefully spread and cover-
ed up with the best mould that could be got ; and the plant se-
cured from the cattle. The oats having come to a state of vege-
tation, raised a proper degree of heat, and thereby made the plant
set forth with vigour.
One cause, which has probably operated to prevent an increase
of plantation in this parish, is the great subdivision of property
that exists in it. This circumstance, added to the difficulties of
the soil and climate, must have deterred the proprietors from at-
tempting to surround their lands with any extent of wood.
Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per acre in
East Kilbride cannot be more than L. J, 10s. The average rent
of grazing for a single cow may be stated at from L.3 to L.4 Sterling
per annum, where the grazing is directly paid for by itself. But
where the land is rented for the sake of grazing, as is generally the
case near the village of Kilbride, the expense may be reckoned
to be about L. 5 for each cow.
Rate of Wages. — The rate of payment for labour is about 10s.
a-week in winter, and 12s. in summer. In some instances, the
weekly wages of quarrymen may be a little higher. The half-
yearly wages of farm-servants, in addition to their food, vary from
L. 7 to L. 10 Sterling.
I have obtained from a respectable dealer in Kilbride, a list of
the medium prices at which he has bought different articles of
produce in the parish during the last six years, which is as follows :
896 LANARKSHIRE.
1837, potatoes, 9s. per boll of 16 pecks.
1838, do. 16s, do.
1839, do. 14s. do.
1840, do. 16s. do.
1835, barley, best sort, at 20s. per cwf.
do. do. second do. 1 6s. do.
do. do. third do. 12s. do.
1836, barley at the same prices.
1837, barley, first, at 19s. per cwt.
do. do. second, at 15s. do.
do. do. third, at 12s. 6d. do.
1838, barley, first, at 2ls. per cwt.
do. do. second, at 16s. do.
do. do. third, at 13s. do.
1839, barley, first, at 21s. per cwt.
do. do. second, at 15s. do.
do. do. third, at 14s. do.
1840, barley, first, at 21s. do.
do. do. second, at 16s. do.
do. do. third, at 12s. do.
1835, meal at 36s. per load of 2£ cwt.
1836, do. 42s. do.
1837, do. 44s. do.
1838, do. 35s. do.
1839, do. 42s. 6d. do.
1840, do. 40s. do.
1835, cheese at 45s. per cwt. of 1 12 Ibs.
1836, do. 52s. 6d. do.
1837, do. 50s. do.
1838, do. 50s. do.
1839, do. 55s. do.
1840, do. 50s. do.
1835, butter at lOd. per Ib.
1836, do. lid. do.
1837, do. lOd. do.
1838, do. lid. do.
1839, do. lid. do.
1840, do. lid. do.
1835, potatoes, 9s. per boll of 16 pecks.
1836, do. 16s. do.
The above table may be relied upon as conveying accurate in-
formation. It gives the wholesale prices, and the person who drew
it up keeps a general shop for selling these and other articles in
retail. He assures me that his purchases were made within the
parish.
" Insurmountable obstacles," says Mr Ure, at the commence-
ment of his fourth chapter, " both from the soil and climate, will
always obstruct agricultural improvements in this parish." These
insurmountable obstacles have, however, in the course of the last
forty years, been surmounted in a great degree. I am informed
that the effect of the improvements has been such as to make
both seed-time and harvest earlier on an average than formerly.
The extent to which the draining of land has advanced in East
Kilbride, within the last twenty years, is highly creditable. In-
deed, sixty years ago, Mr Reid of Castlehill had set a praise-
worthy example in this respect. But it was not till within the
last fifteen years, that it was generally followed. At a period from
twelve to fifteen years ago, the parish of Kilbride was found tak-
ing the lead of all the neighbouring country in the improvement of
land by draining. The exertions which its heritors and farmers
then made, operated as an incitement to those of other parishes,
to adopt a similar course. It may now be affirmed that, in most of
the farms in the lower part of the parish, nearly the whole land
has undergone the process. It is considered by competent judges
here, that, in order to drain properly, there must be a fall of length
in the drain for every square fall of ground that a field contains.
Different opinions prevail among the farmers as to the best modes
of draining. Some approve of furrow-draining, while others prefer
EAST KILBRIDE. 897
cross-draining. Tile-draining was not known in the parish till
within the last five years. Most of the farmers still use stones.
The expense of draining with stones, exclusive of horse labour, may
be calculated at about L. 5 Sterling per acre. The whole expense,
including horse labour, may be from L.9 to L. 12, according to the
distance from which materials must be brought. Although the ex-
pense for the carriage of tiles is not so great, the difference in the
price of the article must make tile-draining, on the whole, more
costly. The price of tiles here is L. 1, 7s. 6d. per 1000.
The improvement thus produced has, of course, increased the
agricultural produce to a very great extent. The dairy produce,
in particular, is at least four times as great as it was forty years
ago. Special attention, indeed, had been paid to the management
of milk cows even in Mr Ure's time. The breed was greatly im-
proved, as he relates, in consequence of measures adopted more
than eighty years ago, by an ancestor of Mr Graham of Limekilns.
But the improved state of the land, accompanied by a more skil-
ful treatment of this useful animal, have rendered her far more pro-
fitable to the farmer, within the last twenty years, than she could
have been previously. Twenty years ago, turnips were scarcely
cultivated in East Kilbride at all. Mr Ure mentions that, in his
time, a few trials had been made to raise this vegetable, but that,
for want of success, the practice had been abandoned. At the
present time, when the farmer, as is customary, lets out his cows to a
cow-farmer or bouer, as he is called, it is usually part of the bar-
gain, that the farmer shall allow to the bouer, at the rate of about
an acre of turnips for ten cows, besides an allowance of about two
bolls of beans for every cow. Large quantities of butter-milk are
carried into Glasgow or Rutherglen every day in summer, and
once or twice a week in winter, from not a few of the farms; while
from almost all, one cart at least, is sent, bearing this commodity
for sale, twice or thrice a week in summer, and less frequently in
winter. Irt Mr Ure's time, the milk was, for the most part, made
into sweet milk cheese. Each farm on an average produced
about 100 stone weight yearly, and the annual product was about
1 1,100 stone weight, which at 7s. per stone, come nearly to L.4000.
By comparing this statement with the medium prices of cheese
during the last six years, as already given, and by considering the
amount of dairy produce to be now between four and five times as
great as it was in 1793, some estimate may be formed of the pre-
sent value of that produce. A great encouragement to improve
898 LANARKSHIRE.
the breed of cattle has arisen from a cattle-show for the parishes
of Eaglesham, Mearjis, Carmunnock, Cambuslang, and East Kil-
bride, which was instituted in the year 1816, and is held an-
nually at Kilbride on the second Friday of June.
The most common period for the duration of leases in this pa-
rish is nineteen years. Several of the Torrance farms have re-
cently been leased for twelve years. The state both of farm-build-
ings and of enclosures has improved and is improving.
Quarries, $c. — There is an ironstone mine at Basket, which be-
longs to Mr Dunlopofthe Clyde Iron Works, while the surface is
the property of Mr Downie of Crossbasket. There are freestone
quarries at Lawmuir, Bogton, Benthall, and on a farm of Torrance
near the village of Kilbride. Freestone is to be got in many other
places. There are lime-works at Braehead, Limekilns, Thornton,
Thornton Hall, and elsewhere. There are two tile-works in the pa-
rish,— one at Springbank, about half a mile to the west of Kilbride ;
the other at Millhouse, to the west of Auldhouse, and almost close
to the parish of Eaglesham. There is abundance of clay in the pa-
rish suited to the purpose of tile-making. Roman cement is found
in various places, and is worked to a considerable extent.
V. — PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
By the grant in Queen Anne's reign, constituting the village of
Kilbride a burgh of barony, the inhabitants were empowered to
hold a weekly market on Tuesday, besides four fairs in the year.
The market-day had ceased to be observed in Mr Ure's time, but
the fairs were then tolerably well frequented. At a subsequent
period only two fairs appear to have been kept, one which was held
in November on the Tuesday after Rutherglen fair, but has now
gone into disuse, and another, which is still held, in June, on the
same day with the cattle-show. Both were for the sale of horned
cattle and sheep.
Besides the town or village of Kilbride and the village of Max-
wellton, the parish may be said to contain five other small villages,
viz. Aldhouse, including Crossbill, about the centre ; Jackton,
about a mile from the western side on the road to Eaglesham ;
Braehead, at the north-western corner; Kittochside, about a mile
to the east of Braehead ; and Nerston, about a mile and a h?ilf,
as the crow flies, from the north-eastern corner. Maxwelltown is
not much more than half a mile distant to the east of Kilbride.
Means of Communication. — There is a post-office in Kilbride
connected with Glasgow. There is one public coach which passes
EAST KILBRIDE. 899
through Kilbride from Glasgow to Strathavon. There is a good
bridge, leading out of the parish into Glassford, over the Calder,
where that river divides the Torrance property from Crutherland,
the seat of John Smith, Esq. This bridge has been greatly im-
proved within the last year. There are three turnpike roads, of
which one is the Glasgow and Strathavon road. Another leads
from Kilbride to Eaglesham, and a third completes the communi-
cation between Kilbride and Busby and Carmunnock. The pa-
rish roads are kept in excellent order.
Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is in the village of Kil-
bride, and is as conveniently situated for the population as the cir-
cumstances of so extensive a parish will admit of. It is nearly
eight miles distant from the southern extremity ; about three miles
and a half from the western ; about two miles and a half from the
northern ; and about three miles from the eastern. It was built
in 1774, and received a new roof and other repairs in 1838. If
it were fully seated it might afford about 1200 sittings, but it can
only at present accommodate about 900 persons. The manse was
built in 1836 andt>1837. The glebe contains about 5 acres, and
is worth nearly L.20 a year. The stipend consists of nine chal-
ders of meal and nine of barley, besides L.10 for communion ele-
ments. During the present year a missionary is placed in the
Aldhouse quarter, whose salary is paid by a subscription from some
of the heritors and myself. There is a church in Kilbride con-
nected with the Relief body. A Methodist chapel has also been
established. The stipend of the Relief minister is about L.I 20
yearly, paid by the congregation, in addition to a free-house and
garden. In 1836, there were about 1962 persons professing to
belong to the Established Church ; 1359 belonging to the Re-
lief; 115 of the Reformed Presbyterian persuasion; 94 of the
United Secession ; and 76 Roman Catholics. The average num-
ber of communicants in the Established Church is about 500.
There is a Tract Society in the parish, in which both churchmen
and Dissenters join, and in connection with which there is a
monthly prayer meeting.
Education. — There are two district parochial schools besides the
principal one at Kilbride. One of these is at Aldhouse, and the
other at Jackton. There is a very excellent school in Maxwell-
ton, supported by the liberality of Sir William Maxwell, and there
is an unendowed school in Kilbride. In all these schools, the or-
dinary branches are taught. Some of the modern improvements
900 LANARKSHIRE.
have been introduced, with great advantage, into Sir William
Maxwell's school. The parochial teacher at Kilbride has the
maximum salary of L.34. The other parochial teachers have
about L.8 of salary each, the one at Aldhouse having the advan-
tage of a free house provided by voluntary liberality. Sir William
Maxwell allows a liberal salary to the teacher of his school.
Libraries. — There are two libraries in the parish, — one a parish
library? and the other a subscription library.
Poor. — The average number of poor yearly on the permanent
roll for the years 1835-36-37, was 32 ; not on the permanent roll,
13. An assessment for support of the poor was first imposed in
1800. Average amount yearly of church collections for the above
years, L. 20. Average amount yearly of assessments for these
years, L.I 42; ditto of mortifications, mortcloth dues, &c. L. 18.
Friendly Societies.* — There are four Friendly Societies, which
have been of great advantage.
Savings' Bank. — A savings' bank was instituted a few years ago
in connection with the Glasgow National Security Savings Bank.
It still subsists.
Inns. — There are 19 inns and public-houses in the parish, the
number of which is unquestionably prejudicial to the morals of the
people.
Fuel. — Coal is to be found in East Kilbride, but not of the best
quality. A great deal is brought from Hamilton and Cambuslang.
Peats are to be found in abundance, and are much used. The ex-
pense of the inferior coal found in the parish or close to it is, in-
cluding cartage to the village of Kilbride, at an average of 4s. 6d.
per 12 cwt. The expense of the coal from Cambuslang, when
brought to Kilbride, is 8s. 8d. per 16 cwt.
December 1840.
SUPPLEMENT TO THE ARTICLE « GLASGOW."*
THE Presbytery of Glasgow, considering it desirable that further
information should be afforded respecting the great moral and re-
ligious undertakings in which the friends of the Established Church
in Glasgow are engaged, than is afforded in the foregoing Ac-
count of Glasgow, appointed a committee of their number to draw
up a statement on the subject. The following is the result of their
inquiries : —
Protestant Association. — Impressed with the dangers of Popery
arising from the accession of Roman Catholics to power in the Le-
gislature of the country, — the manner in which that power is exert-
ed,— the zealous efforts made by the Church of Rome to regain
her ascendency, — the loose notions of religious principle unhappily
prevalent among a large body of Protestants, — and the magnitude
of the Roman Catholic population in Glasgow, — a number of mi-
nisters and laymen formed themselves, in October 1835, into an
Association for the purpose, by public meetings and the press, of
exposing the errors and pernicious tendency of the Popish system,
— extensively diffusing information respecting the character and
history of the church of Rome, and arousing Protestants to the
duties to which they are specially called. To guard against mis-
apprehension, and at the same time better describe their object,
they included the following resolution among the fundamental
principles of the society : —
" That this Association disclaims all identity with party names
and party interests, and presents a centre of unity to as many as
prefer the welfare of Protestantism to the objects of political fac-
tion, and desire to preserve that Protestant character of the con-
stitution which has been recognized by Great Britain since the
period of the Reformation."
In furtherance of these important objects, the Association has
held numerous and influential meetings, and, with the assist-
ance of eminent ministers, and others from England and Ireland,
made fearful disclosures of the working of the "mystery of iniqui-
ty" in modern times. In addition to the publication of the pro-
• Drawn up by the Rev. John G. Lorimer of St David's Parish, Glasgow.
LANARK. 3 M
902 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
ceedings and speeches at these meetings, the Association has print-
ed pamphlets, lectures, and tracts, to the extent of 85,000. Two
courses of lectures were delivered at their request in successive years,
1836 and 1837, by some of the ministers of Glasgow, and have been
subsequently published. The attendance at these lectures was
large, while the audience manifested the deepest interest; and
since their publication, they have been extensively sold and widely
circulated.*
In connection with the labours of the Protestant Association,
the results of an important inquiry as to the number of Roman
Catholics within the bounds of the Presbytery may be mentioned.
In the article Glasgow, Dr Cleland states the number of Roman
Catholics in the city at 26,965. This was for the year 1831. In
a paper given in to the British Association for the advancement
of Science in 1836, he states the number at 46,238. Both
numbers are founded not upon actual enumeration, but upon a
conjectural estimate by the Roman Catholic priests, from the
number of their baptisms. The Presbytery appointed a commit-
tee of inquiry, and from returns communicated to them, not only
by the parochial ministers of the city, but all the parochial minis-
ters of the Presbytery, and these founded on actual enumeration,
with a view to the investigations of the Royal Commission on Re-
ligious Instruction, it appears that the whole number of Roman
Catholics within the bounds of the Presbytery amounts only to
19,484. Allowing for two small districts unreported, it may be safe-
ly said that, in a population of 270,000, the Roman Catholic popu-
lation does not exceed 20,000. This is a very important result, as
to the accuracy of which there can be no question. It is remarkably
* The following is a list of the publications of the Protestant Association :
No, I. The Theology of Peter Dens, with all its immoral and persecuting prin-
ciples, proved to be the text-book of the present Roman Catholic Priesthood of Ire-
land ; by the'Rev. J, G. Lorimer, minister of St David's Parish.
No. 11. Ireland — Popery and Priestcraft, the cause of her misery and crime; by
J. C. Colquhoun, Esq. of Killermont,
No. 111. Popery in Ireland, a Persecutor, or the Theology of Peter Dens illus-
trated by examples ; by the Rev. John G. Lorimer of St David's Parish.
No. IV. Popery unchanged — the creed of Pope Pius IV. still the creed of the
Church of Rome; by the Rev. James Henderson, D.D., of St Enoch's Parish.
No. V. The Dangerous Nature of Popery, — the substance of a speech ; by the
Rev. N. Paterson, D.D., of St Andrew's Parish.
No. VI. Ireland, — the Policy of reducing the Established Church, and paying
the Roman Catholic Priests ; by J. C. Colquhoun, Esq. of Killermont.
No. VII. On the Grant to Maynooth College; by J. C. Colquhoun, Esq. of
Killermont.
The services of Mr Colquhoun in this cause have been of the most able, enlight-
ened, and disinterested character.
ARTICLE GLASGOW. 903
confirmed from other sources of information. The Religious In-
struction Commissioners, (at page 15 of their Second Report,) state,
on the authority of Dissenting as well as Church Establishment
inquiries, that, in a population of about 140,000, the whole Ro-
man Catholics were 15,171, while before the same commission the
Roman Catholics rated their number at 50,000. It cannot be
doubted that, had they extended their inquiries so as to embrace the
country parishes, where the Roman Catholics are very few, they
would have arrived at the same conclusion with the committee of
Presbytery. The investigations of the Commissioners at Greenock
brought out a similar result. The Romish priests, by calculations
connected with baptisms, had made an extravagant estimate of
the population under their superintendence. The Dissenters of
Greenock, by enumeration, reduced it nearly one-half, viz. from
4000 to 2282.
It would seem that, to swell their numbers, is part of the syste-
matic policy of the Romish priesthood ; a policy against which it
is the duty of Protestants to be on their guard. Large and af-
fecting as is the Roman Catholic population in Glasgow and its
vicinity, a population which the cheap facilities of communication
with Ireland, and the demand for labour in a manufacturing com-
munity creates, it is not perhaps greater than might have been
expected. At least it is satisfactory to be informed by the Com-
mittee of Presbytery, that, " so far as they can judge from their
own knowledge, and the returns submitted to them, there does not
seem to be any increase of Popery from proselytism deserving the
name. . Intermarriage may occasionally add an ignorant so-called
Protestant to the communion of the Romish Church, but the great
source of increase is by immigration from Ireland."
Warmly as the ministers and members generally of the Esta-
blished Church in Glasgow feel upon the subject of Popery, and vi-
gorously as they have employed means to expose the errors and cor-
ruptions of the Church of Rome, it is scarcely necessary to remark,
that they have never been wanting in kindness to the poor delud-
ed Roman Catholics themselves. They have practically shown,
that it is quite a possible thing to denounce the fatal errors and
pernicious operation of a man's creed, and at the same time to ma-
nifest the truest benevolence in promoting his temporal and spi-
ritual good. One or two facts illustrative of this may be ap-
pealed to. While the Roman Catholic population of Glasgow
forms only some twelfth part of the whole population, Dr Cowan,
901 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
in his interesting Statistics of Fever, proves that nearly one-
third of the fever patients under his hospital charge are Irish,
who may be safely set down as in almost all cases Roman Ca-
tholics. A public collection was called for a few years ago in
all churches, Established and Dissenting, throughout the city, to
meet the expense incurred by the increase of fever. In 28
churches of the Establishment, collections were forthwith made,
amounting to nearly L.600. Four Dissenting congregations hold-
ing Church Establishment principles contributed L.I 65, 13s. 6d.;
eight Dissenting congregations not holding these principles, con-
tributed L.161, 10s.; and the Roman Catholics themselves by an
oratorio, raised L.41, 17s. 6d. Such was the manner, and the
proportions in which the general sum was contributed to the
funds of the Royal Infirmary, and from it one may gather whether
hatred to Popery be inconsistent with sympathy and affection for
Roman Catholics. An important fact, admitting of a similar inter-
pretation, is stated by Henry Paul, Esq. in his valuable Mortality
Bill of Glasgow for 1837. In the twenty-fifth table he gives
the amount of unemployed male operatives in Glasgow during the
summer months of that year, who applied for relief out of the fund
subscribed for the purpose, and obtained employment. Of these
there were 1920 Scotch and 1103 Irish. There can be little
question that the vast majority of the latter were Roman Catho-
lics, and yet they were relieved by the charity and kindness, in
a chief degree, of churchmen, in such a ratio as nearly two Irish
for every three Scotch applicants. It may be added, that, in
a general collection in 1838, for a Board of Health, in the
benefits of which the Roman Catholic population largely share,
it was stated on good authority, that out of L.1000 collected, L.700
were contributed by the Established Church. From these facts
the reader may see how false is the inference, that opposition to
Popery is associated with any indifference to the temporal welfare
of its adherents. The kindness of the Established Church to the
Roman Catholic population is the more worthy of notice, when it
is remembered that that population are strongly opposed to those
principles, civil and religious, which churchmen generally entertain
and revere.
Society for Erecting Additional Parochial Churches in Glasgow
and Suburbs. — Though the Church of Scotland can scarcely ever
be said to have been altogether insensible to the obligation of ex-
tending her boundaries, so as to comprehend the people within the
ARTICLE GLASGOW. !M)5
pale of Divine ordinances — though during the earlier period of her
history she was remarkable for her efforts in the cause of Church
Extension, and so recently as 1818 applied to the Legislature for an
enlargement of the number of churches in the Highlands and Islands,
— an application which issued in the erection of the forty-three Parlia-
mentary churches, — still the provision which was made in the large
towns and populous districts of the Lowlands, where made at all, was
miserably inadequate. This led to the building of Chapels of Ease,
which, though labouring under many disadvantages, it cannot be
doubted have,' under God, been the means of instructing and
keeping many thousands within the pale of the Church, who
otherwise would have been driven beyond her boundaries, or sunk
into Heathenism. To their honour also let it be recorded, that
they have rendered an important service to the cause of the poor, to
which Dissenting chapels, in general, cannot lay claim. As a spe-
cimen it may be mentioned, that the Calton Chapel of Ease, now
the Mid Calton Church, from its opening in 1793, to January
1838, contributed not less than L. 3897, 17s. 3Jd. to the poor;
the chapel in Anderston, now Anderston Church, from 1801, not
less than L.3535 ; the Gaelic Church, Duke Street, L.3000 ; Al-
bion Church, L.7000; St Columba Gaelic, L.1200.
Had these collections been regularly paid into the bank as
they were received, of course the sum would have been a very
large one at the present day. In the case of Calton, for in-
stance, at simple interest, it would have been L. 8659, 17s. 3|d.,
at compound, L. 15,359, 11s. 3|d., and in the other cases in
a similar proportion ; but neither the Church courts nor the
chapels contended for such an application.* They preferred as
much as possible to keep up the old Scriptural habit of Scotland,
viz. of contributing for the support of the poor on the Lord's Day.
The increase of assessments for the poor, and the more pressing
claims of their spiritual necessities, and the absence of a state
endowment, may now render a different application of the col-
* From the opening of the parish church of St John's, in 1819, under Dr Chalmers,
down to September 1837, there was a sum raised by collections for the support of the
poor amounting to L.7752, 11s. 4£d. The city was thus saved an assessment for the
poor to a similar extent ; and I am informed by one of the elders, William Buchan-
an, Esq., who has devoted much attention to the subject, that the kirk- session and
court of deacons of St John's, have in all saved to the city of Glasgow, in support of
paupers, lunatics, orphans, foundlings, &c. upwards of L.9800. It appears from Dr
Cleland's statement that the city churches, by ordinary collections, &c. raise L.2000
a year, which to the same extent diminishes the assessment. Owing to the multi-
plication of places of worship, and the progress of the assessment deadening the dis.
position to give at the church door, the sum, it is believed, is now considerably less.
906 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
lections in many cases necessary. This is an unhappy state of
things, which, it is hoped, will only be temporary. But no change
can obliterate the interesting and important fact, that the Chapels
of Ease of Glasgow, hardly as sometimes they may have been .
dealt with, were the means of saving to the general community a
very large sum of money through many years. Let none thought-
lessly say that this would not have been a bad mode of endow-
ment. The collections might have been so applied ; but not only
would this have been destructive of the old and excellent practice
already referred to, but it could only have procured an endowment
for a very few places of worship. To keep pace with the wants of
the people, such a number of chapels must have been built, and
let at so low a rate for the working-classes, as would have divided
and frittered away the collections, and made them altogether in-
adequate as a source of endowment. It is the small number of
the Chapels of Ease, and so their ability to gather a richer class
of society within their walls, which renders their collections so con-
siderable as they are. In short, the success of the Chapels of
Ease in collecting for the poor is a previous and indirect proof
of the fact, that thousands and tens of thousands of persons are
growing up, in the meantime, utter strangers to the ordinances
of religion.
Even in the most favourable circumstances, the chapels soon
reached their limit, and that is a limit which leaves vast multitudes
utterly unprovided with the means of grace and salvation. Deeply
impressed with the wide-spread and growing destitution in Glas-
gow, a number of enlightened and generous Christian men formed
themselves into a society, for building twenty additional churches
in the city and its vicinity, in connection with the Establishment,
in five years. The principles of the society and corresponding re-
gulations are such as to restore the parochial system to its original
efficiency, — breaking down large parishes to a manageable size, —
giving a preference in seat-letting to the parishioners, — and pro-
viding that the price of a large number of the sittings shall be so
low as to render them accessible to the poor and working-classes.
Under the blessing of the great Head of the Church, the under-
taking was cordially entered into, and in less than a year L.2 1,400
were subscribed, by 140 persons, chiefly in subscriptions of L.100
and L.200, payable in five instalments.
Before proceeding to describe the operations of the Society, it
may not be unsuitable to present the reader with a picture of the
ARTICLE GLASGOW. 907
religious destitution of Glasgow. We extract the following im-
pressive summary from the Annual Report of 1836, simply pre-
mising, that it is founded upon unexceptionable returns laid before
the Royal Commissioners of Religious Instruction by the paro-
chial ministers. It is also to be remembered, that the whole po-
pulation is estimated, agreeably to the Mortality Bill, at 244,000,
and that the proportion of persons who are in circumstances to be
attending on Divine worship at the same time, is rated at 60 in the
100. Law professes to provide only for 44 in the 100. Fact?
would warrant a higher number than either. But to avoid every-
thing like straining in so melancholy a case, 60 per cent, is as*
sumed. The statement is from the pen of an indefatigable and
enlightened friend of Church Extension, William Collins, Esq.
" First. In Glasgow and suburbs there are no fewer than 85, 105
persons capable of attending church, who have not a sitting in any
place of worship, Established or Dissenting, of any denomination
whatever. As only three-fifths of the population are assumed to
be capable of attending church, the above 85,105 who are desti-
tute of sittings represent a population of 141,841, which is greatly
more than one-half of the whole population.'
" Second. Independently of the vast mass of families that are
inadequately supplied — having only one or perhaps two sittings,
when they ought to possess four or five — there are no fewer than
18,004 families, no member of which has a sitting in any place
of worship, Established or Dissenting, of any denomination what-
ever. These families alone, according to the average number of
persons in a family, represent a destitute population of 85,519
persons, entirely dissociated from the ordinances of Christianity.;
" Third. Since the census of 1821, the population of Glasgow
and suburbs has increased 88,000 souls, for whom there ought to
have been provided 5*2,800 sittings, but for whom there only have
been provided 19,547 &ittings in all Established and Dissenting
churches whatever, leaving unprovided of the mere increase of the
population, during that period alone, no fewer than 33,253 souls,
so rapidly is the increase of the population outrunning the provi-
sion that is made for their church accommodation.
" We shall now advert to three corresponding facts, which will
present the destitution to your notice in a still more palpable and
affecting form.
" First. The number of the population at present destitute of
church accommodation in Glasgow and suburbs is nearly as great
008 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
as the whole population of Glasgow and suburbs was in the year
1820. In 1820 the population was 142,445, and the proportion
of sittings which these would require, is 85,467 ; but the number
of the population, at present, who ought to possess sittings, but
who are entirely destitute of them, is 85,105, and these in the
same proportion represent a population of 141,841. Thus the
number of the population at present destitute is within 604 of the
whole population in the year 1820. Sixteen brief years have but
run their course since that period, and yet the number of the po-
pulation destitute is nearly as great as if, in the year 1820, there had
not been an Established or Dissenting church, of any denomina-
tion whatever, in our city. And what would have been said of our
great city then, if not a church of any kind had existed among us?
and yet the number of the destitute population now is nearly as
great as if such had actually been the case.
" Second. The number of entire families, no member of which
possesses a sitting in any place of worship, either Established or
Dissenting, is greater than was the whole number of families in
Glasgow and suburbs in the beginning of the present century.
The whole number of families in Glasgow and suburbs in the year
1800, was 17,173, and these represented a population of 81,575;
but the number of families entirely destitute of church accommo-
, dation now is 18,004, and these, according to the same average of
members in a family, represent a population of 85,519. Thus the
number of families at present entirely destitute of all church ac-
commodation whatever, exceeds by 831 the whole number of fa-
milies in the year 1 800. And these, let it never be forgotten,
form only a portion of the present destitution, and are altogether
independent of the vast mass of families who are but inadequately
supplied. The present century has not nearly half run its course,
and yet the number of families alone who do not possess sittings in
any church whatever, is greater than if, in the year 1800, not a fa-
mily in our great city had possessed sittings in any Established or
Dissenting church whatever. And what, we again ask, would
have been said of our great city then, if not a family in it had pos-
sessed a single sitting in any place of worship ? and yet the number
of families now, entirely destitute, is greater than if such had actually
been the case.
" Third. The Glasgow Church- Building Society commenced
their operations in the beginning of the year 1 834, and though the
three years which have elapsed since that period, down to the
ARTICLE GLASGOW. 909
close of the year 1836, has been a period of signal beneficence
and of unusual exertion for increasing the church accommodation
of our city, yet it is a striking and no less deeply affecting fact,
that, with the combined efforts of our Society and the Dissenters
of all denominations, we have not been able to provide church ac-
commodation for one-half of the increase of the population, since
our Society commenced their labours in 1834. From the 1st of
January 1834, to the 2d of January 1837, it is supposed that the
population of Glasgow and suburbs have increased 24,000 souls.
For these, 14,400 sittings would have been required, and yet the
whole additional churches which have been opened during that pe-
riod, connected both with the Establishment and Dissenters, con-
tain only 6562 sittings, leaving a deficiency of church accommo-
dation for the mere increase of the population of no fewer than
7838 sittings. Thus, though 6562 of the increase of the popula-
tion have, during that period, been provided for, 7838 of that in-
crease have been left unprovided for, and this with the efforts of
the Establishment and Dissenters combined. And thus, great as
was the spiritual destitution of our city before we commenced our
labours, the close of every year finds it greater than before."
The Religious Instruction Commissioners, describing the condi-
tion of a population only of 213,000, record at page 32 of their
report on Glasgow as the result of their investigations, " that a
very large number of persons, upwards of 66,000, exclusive of
children under ten years of age, are not in the habit of attending
public worship ;" and again, " after making allowance for old and
infirm persons, and those who may be necessarily absent, that
number cannot be stated at less than 55,000. Such is a brief
outline of the religious destitution of Glasgow, and what can be
conceived more appalling. The moral results are just of such a cha-
racter as every believer in the efficacy of Christian instruction would
anticipate. Intemperance and Sabbath profanation are fearfully
prevalent. Pauperism is steadily increasing, and disease and mor-
tality are following in their train. Within the last twenty years,
the population of Glasgow has almost doubled ; but crime, instead
of merely doubling, has, as is proved from the records of the Court
of Justiciary, increased nearly eight times. And while during ten of
these years, the whole addition which was made to the church accom-
modation of the community was only about 1000 sittings, in the
meantime, the population increased 64,000 ; a number which is
itself equal to the population of a large town, not to speak of seve-
910 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
ral counties. A few years ago, some very important facts relative to
crime were brought before the town-council of the city by one of
their number, Hugh Tennent, Esq. His care and intelligence are
indisputable, and yet he has supplied us with such information as the
following : The criminal establishments of Glasgow cost originally
L. 95,000. Their annual expense is L. 28,385. The increased
expense of crime during the last four years is L. 1279 per annum.
Pauperism costs L. 18,000 a year. What a contrast to the days of
Dr Benyon, the friend of Matthew Henry, who sojourned in the
city in 1703, and of whom Henry pleasantly relates, that " he ob-
served to his great satisfaction that all the while he was in Glas-
gow, though he lay in a public inn, he never saw any drunk, nor
heard any swear. Nay, he observed, that in all the inns of the
road to that part of Scotland where he lay, though some of them
mean, they had family worship performed morning and evening;
from which, and other remarks made in that journey, he inferred,
that practical religion doth not depend on worldly wealth, for
where he had seen the marks of poverty, there he had seen withal
the marks of piety." These were the days of a missionary spirit
and wide-spread church extension ; — days in which the parochial
system was yet in its entireness and strength.
It is time to return to the Church-Building Society, and to re-
late what it has been able to accomplish in the way of meeting the
fearful destitution and accompanying immorality and crime which
have been unfolded. It has been honoured to erect thirteen
churches, viz. St Stephen's, St Mark's, St Peter's, the Bridegate,
St Luke's, Bridgeton, Camlachie, Chalmers's Church, Wellpark,
Hutchesontown, Martyrs, St^Matthew's, Brownfield. Others, such
as Milton, Brownfield, Kingston, have been built by private par-
ties ; but are placed under all the important regulations of the
churches of the Church-Building Society. The last erection is in
token of respect to the Rev. Mr Gibson, for his valuable services
to the Church of Scotland in the recent] Church Establishment
controversy. Several additional churches are in the course of erec-
tion, and it is expected will ere long be opened. These are Green-
head and Lauriston. In addition to these, important steps have
been taken by the Society towards the erection of other churches.
In this account of new churches we do not include several in the
neighbourhood of Glasgow, which are already open, and promise
to be most useful, such as the new churches at Kirkintilloch, Par-
tick, and Rutherglen. Banton, in the parish of Kilsyth, is now
ARTICLE GLASGOW.
Oil
opened; and Strathbungo and Springburn are in the course of
erection.
We now give a list of the new churches within the bounds
of the Presbytery, combining with them an enumeration of the
old unendowed churches or former chapels of ease, with their re-
spective ministers, as they stand in December 1840 : —
FORMER CHAPELS OF EASE.
Albion Street Church, Archibald Nisbett
Anderston, Alexander Sommerville.
Middle Calton, Matthew Graham.
Shettlestone, John Thomson.
Kirkfield, J. R. Anderson.
St Columba, (Gaelic), Nor. M'Leod, D.D.
Duke Street, (Gaelic), Lewis Rose.
Hope Street, (Gaelic), Hector M'Neil.
Chryston, James Young, A. M.
St George's in-the- Fields, P. Napier.
St Thomas, Joseph Sommerville ; Wil-
liam Hunter, A. and S.
Maryhill, R. M'Nair Wilson.
NEW EXTENSION CHURCHES.
St Stephen's, Andrew King.
St Mark's, Walter M'Gilvray.
St Peter's, William Arnot.
Bridgegate, Daniel Cameron.
St Luke's, J. C. Fowler.
Bridgeton.
Camlachie, W. Eason.
Chalmers's, J. Smith.
Wellpark, J. Smith.
Hutchesontown, A. S. Patterson.
Martyr's, D. Menzies.
St Matthew's, P. M'Morland.
Milton.
Brownfield, J. Reid.
Kingston, J. Gibson, A.M.
Partick, Robert Pasley.
Rutherglen, James Munro.
St David's, Kirkintilloch, Thomas Dun-
can.
Banton, Kilsyth, John Lyon.
CHURCHES OF THE ORIGINAL SECESSION WHICH HAVE JOINED THE ESTABLISHMENT.
Renfield Street Church, Dr Willis.
East Cutnbernauld, John Cochrane.
The far larger part (about 1000 souls,)
Campbell Street Congreg. P. Currie.
Though the new churches have been in operation but for a very
short time, and though the work in which their ministers and ses-
sions are engaged be a very arduous one, yet it is most gratifying
to be able to state that they are succeeding to an extent beyond what
the most sanguine could have expected. This is matter of devout
thankfulness to the great Head of the Church." Restricting our-
selves to the twelve churches which may be said to remain under the
care of the Society, whose proceedings we are now recording, and
which may be said to contain 1000 sittings each, it appears, on of-
ficial authority, that, in November 1840, there were not less than
7630 sittings let. The congregational attendance, of course, is very
much larger than this number describes. At the same period,
the communicants in these churches amounted to not less than
4367, — many of them being persons who had not made any pub-
lic profession of religion for years ; who may be said to have been
reclaimed from ignorance and indifference. At one communion
season, 231 were admitted to the Lord's table for the first time.
During the last year there was an increase of 578 communicants
912 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
in the twelve churches to which we refer — a number itself constitut-
ing a good congregation, without taking into account the other new
churches, which are not less prosperous. It is important to state,
that, in the face of this large increase in the new churches, there
has not been any very serious diminution in the old. Any falling off
during late years, in that part of the city revenue which is derived
from the seat-rents, may be explained from other causes, such as the
depression of trade, and the growing unwillingness of the people to
pay the high seat-rents which are charged. This* latter circumstance
leads to the occupation of a greater number of sittings than are paid
for. But the interesting fact is, that, at the communion seasons, the
old churches have much the same number of communicants as
before. A few of them may have experienced a diminution,
but others have gained an increase ; while the new churches have
made such important and substantial progress as has been describ-
ed. Church communion, not seat-letting, is the true indication
and test of the strength of a Christian church. It may be noticed,
as one useful result of the operation of the new churches, that they
will bring down the price of sittings in the old, and so make
them more accessible to the humbler classes of society. This
part of the working is only begun, but it will extend more and
more, and most will believe that, as at present, while the old
city churches are charged 10s. or 11s. as the average-priced
.sitting over their whole church accommodation, there is ample
room for change. Indeed, we are sure we do but express the
sentiments of the Presbytery of Glasgow, and of the church at
large, when we condemn the system of seat-rents in endowed
churches, whether in town or country, as inconsistent with the
sound principles of an establishment, and most injurious, in its
practical operation, to the moral and religious interests of a very
large body of the people.
Encouraging as is the progress which has been made, it must
be remembered how awful is the religious destitution which
has been unveiled, and that the population of Glasgow is run-
ning on, according to the mortality bill, at an increase of 9000
a year, and that the raising up and maintenance of additional
churches must become more and more arduous with the progress
of the undertaking, exhausting, as it will do, the class of people
who are most able and willing to join in supporting them. When
these things are considered, all who think calmly and impartially
3
ARTICLE GLASGOW. 913
on the subject must see that no adequate remedy can be applied to
the vast moral evils of society without such assistance from the State,
— a party most deeply interested in the question, — as shall bring the
means of instruction, surely, immediately, and permanently within
the reach of the ignorant and the perishing. It is plain, apart alto-
gether from the sacred religious duty of the State, that private libe-
rality can never master the difficulties of the case. What can be
expected more generous than the doings of Glasgow ? Nearly
L.45,000 will have been raised and expended for Church Exten-
sion from the outset of the society up to next year, by which time
seventeen churches, with church accommodation for 17,000 per-
sons, will have been completed.* But what is all this to the magni-
tude of the work which has yet to be overtaken, and where is the
wealth in other parts of Scotland to do as much, however great-
ly needed ? Dr Cleland has very properly, in the article Glas-
gow, (page 185,) referred to the sums annually raised in Glas-
gow for religious objects, and the sum of L.30,000 looks well ;
but. the statement is open to misapprehension. Two-thirds of
it (the L.2 1,400 of the Church Building Society) is not an an-
nual sum. It is spread over five years. Deductions to the
extent also of L.I 200 must be -made from this list for objects
not so much religious as humane, and leaving out the church
building annual sum, what have we for 28 religious societies in the
great city of Glasgow but the sum of L.7440 ? — a sum, be it re-
membered, raised by a very small number of individuals ; for they
who give to one religious object generally give to another. It is
true that much more than this sum would intimate, is contributed
for religious purposes. Four of the schemes of the General
Assembly, for which there are annual collections, and which may
amount together to I.. 1400 or L.I 600 a year, are not included,
nor .is the cost of the parochial missions, local Sabbath-schools, &c.
in the Establishment, nor the contributions of Dissenters to their
own special religious objects, embraced. Still it is an important
fact, that the Christians of Glasgow, by associated effort through
not less than 28 different channels, raise for the cause of Christ
* In addition to the yearly instalment of the Society, the congregations of St John's,
St George's, St Enoch's, St Paul's, St James's, the Tron, and St David's raised lately
hy subscription to the Society's funds about L.6000. It is worthy of record, that all
the churches, with the exception of one having L.400 on it, are free of debt, and
are the free gift of good men to the poor. No pecuniary return is expected or
desired.
914 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
at home and abroad little more than L.7000 a year, and that this
is done to a great extent by the same individuals. Such is the
achievement of a city which collected of revenue at the Custom-
House in 1837 the sum of L.394,144; and is, then, such Christ-
ian liberality as has been described, most praiseworthy as it is, a
principle of sufficient strength and fulness, upon which one may,
with a clear conscience, peril the temporal and spiritual interests
of thousands and tens of thousands of his fellow-men and fellow-
citizens? Do the doings of the past promise that the private li-
berality of the future willl be ample enough ?
According to the Mortality Bill, lately published, thejpopulation
of Glasgow is 273,000. The Religious Instruction Commissioners
reported only on 213,000.
The Glasgow Educational Society. — As an example of the mi-
serable destitution as to education into which some parishes have
fallen, it may be noticed, that in a part of the overgrown Barony
Parish (now constituting the new parish of St Luke's,) there were
a few years ago, in a population of 2400, not less than 592 young
persons between the ages of six and thirteen, and of these only 99
were attending any day-schools. The evil is now remedied by
the establishment of a school, which will be afterwards noticed.
Over Glasgow as a whole, as nearly as can be calculated, not
above a fourteenth part of the population is at school. To insure
a good education there should be a sixth. From the Government
Summary of Education Returns in 1833-1834, it would seem
that an eleventh part of the population of Scotland is at school.
This would prove Glasgow to be worse provided than not a few parts
of the country. For many years, good men in the city, and par-
ticularly the kirk-sessions of the Established Church, have devoted
a considerable share of their attention to the education of the
poorer classes of society. Several large charity schools have been
endowed by the bequests of churchmen, and are under the ma-
nagement of the ministers and elders. In some cases, the magis-
trates and town-council are joined with them in the direction. Still
it was felt, that not only was an increased number of schools neces-
sary, but schools of an improved quality. In 1829, the infant school
system was introduced, and a model school established, but the
interest soon declined. As the system was then conducted, the
merely intellectual greatly predominated over the moral and reli-
gious, and this teaching wants stability. There was no small danger
ARTICLE GLASGOW. 915
of the infant school perishing altogether. At this crisis, several
of the parochial congregations stepped forward and established
four or five infant schools ; and while as careful as ever to culti-
vate and train the mind, they made Scriptural principle, spirit, and
habit predominant and all-pervading. This was attended with good,
but the public interest could not be sustained in behalf of infant
schools, and many of them after a season were discontinued. In
1834, the Educational Society, which might be said to have begun
with the introduction of infant schools, was 'revised and reor-
ganized. It consists of persons attached to the principles of a
national religious establishment of the truth, and approving of a con-
nection between the parochial schools and the national church. Its
present objects are, to obtain and diffuse information regarding the
common schools of our own and other countries — their excellencies
and defects ; to awaken our countrymen to the educational wants
of Scotland ; to solicit Parliamentary inquiry and aid in behalf of
the extension and improvement of the parochial schools, — and, in
particular, to establish a Normal seminary in connection with our
parochial institutions for the instruction of teachers in the most
improved methods of intellectual and moral training, so that the
schoolmasters may enjoy a regular professional education. Per-
ceiving the great advantage of the moral training in the infant
schools, and, persuaded of its applicability to juvenile or more ad-
vanced schools, the Society forthwith engrafted it upon juvenile
education, and with this view selected a sessional school as a mo-
del until they should be able to have a juvenile model school, as
well as an infant model school of their own. At these model
seminaries, a great many teachers from all parts of the country
have received instruction in the best modes of teaching and
training the young. Such has been the success, and such the
felt necessity for an institution, to embrace the grand objects of
the Educational Society on a suitable scale in one building, that
they have erected a Normal Seminary. This institution was su-
perintended by the late Mr John M'Crie, son of the late cele-
brated Dr M'Crie, as rector, till he was cut off by death in the
prime of his days and the opening blossom of his usefulness.
The most important facts connected with the operations of the
Normal Seminary are to be found in the following extract from
an Appeal recently circulated by the Society :
" There are, at this moment, forty-seven students in regular
916 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
attendance, qualifying themselves, by means of the system pur-
sued in it, for the office of Instructors of youth ; and already, at
the|date of 31st December 1836, there had been no fewer than
260 teachers, male and female, trained in the Society's schools.
And so greatly is the system followed in their Seminary approved
of by the country at large, that the applications for teachers who
have been trained in it has been more than double of what the
Society could supply. They have furnished schoolmasters to al-
most every county of Scotland ; and the fame of the Seminary
has been such, as to have induced the Government to send out,
within the last four months, seventeen teachers who had been train-
ed in it, to Australia, and twelve to the West Indies, for which latter
destination they have requested the Society to furnish fifteen to
twenty trainers additional, at salaries of L>. 150 Sterling a-year.
And let it be borne in mind, that the system, whose influence is
thus rapidly extending, while it embraces every real and well-di-
gested improvement, both in the art and in the subject matter of
education which modern times have devised, is a system thoroughly
Christian, founded on, and throughout pervaded by, the great
lessons of the Word of God.
" To give some idea of the expense the Society have incurred in
the erection of such an institution, it may be stated, that although
the centre part of the building has for the present been omitted,
what has been actually built and opened for use, and the whole
of which was absolutely necessary for the immediate and every-
day purposes of the seminary, has cost, with its accompanying
play-grounds, no less a sum than L. 8000. What has thus been
completed, embraces four model schools — an Infant, a Juvenile,
a Commercial, and a school of Industry, in which, taken together,
there will be accommodation for the training of 1000 children.
Each of these schools has its set of class-rooms attached to it for
the use of the Normal students, and both children and Normal
students of all denominations are admitted to the benefits of the
institution. The society are satisfied, that, in erecting such a
seminary, they are conferring an incalculable benefit on the coun-
try ; and, therefore, they feel assured the liberality of the friends
of education will enable them to meet the large expense unavoid-
ably incurred. For this purpose, a sum of at least L. 3000 is in-
dispensably necessary."
It will be gratifying to our readers to be informed that the Ge-
ARTICLE GLASGOW. 91 7
neral Assembly, upon a late Report of its Standing Education
Committee, has established a relation with this important institu-
tion, so that it may be looked upon as a Normal seminary, ap-
proved and adopted by the National Church.
I have obtained the following information from David Stow,
Esq. the noble-minded projector, and laborious secretary and su-
perintendent of the Normal Seminary. It may be considered as
supplying the leading facets connected with the institution, down to
the present time.
About L. 15,000 have been expended on the purchase of the
site, play-grounds, building, furnishings, &c. Of this sum, L. 4500
have been contributed by Government from the Parliamentary
grants ; L. 3500 have been raised by private subscription ; and a
debt remains of L. 7000.
More than 600 teachers, male and female, have been trained
since the opening of the institution in 1836-7. The average
number in attendance is about 40. At this moment it is 45.
About 30 have gone to the West Indies. There is an addi-
tional application for 9 for the same quarter ; 19 have gone to
Australia, and several more are wanted. Not a few have gone to
British America. A few have received appointments in Ireland,
and a great many in England and Scotland. The English Poor-
Law Commissioners have applied for, and received a considerable
number.
The demand for persons qualified for conducting the training
system, is usually four times greater than the supply ; and it
continues to encrease. Lately there was an application from Eng-
land for 22, with the promise of salaries of L. 100 each. It is
not uncommon for the secretary of the Institution to have applica-
tions for so many teachers, that their joint salaries amount to be-
tween L. 2000 and L. 3000.
The number of children at present trained in the Normal Se-
minary, is 500. It thus supplies the place of sessional schools to
several adjoining parishes. The great difficulty with which the
Institution has to contend, besides raising money for the teachers'
salaries, and meeting the interest of the large debt, is the want of
a few hundred pounds a year to assist the young men who come to
be trained, to remain a longer period at the seminary than they
are able to do from their own private resources. The present
term is six months ; but it is desirable it were twelve. Besides,
LANARK. 3 N
918 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
many would come who are not able to support themselves for six
months. A sum of money could not be better bestowed by Go-
vernment, or the Educational Committee of the General Assem-
bly, than upon this most important object. Hundreds of good
trained teachers could thus be sent forth every year.
When recording the state of education in Glasgow, it would
be unpardonable to omit the mention of the Sessional schools, in-
fant and juvenile, supported by and under the superintendence of
different parochial congregations. Though not connected with
the Educational Society, they are in a great degree conducted upon
its principles. Such a list as the following is, in no small degree,
honourable to the Church of Scotland, and strikingly vindicates
her claims to a title which has all along been peculiarly her own —
the friend of popular education.
Expended by the Established Church in Glasgow since 1819,
in the cause of education, independent of the annual expense of
maintaining the schools : —
St John's four schools, including teachers' houses, . L. 4017 0 0
St David's, two do. with teacher's house, . 2080 0 0
St Paul's, Balfour's School, do. . . 1100 0 0
Cowcadden's Infant do. ~* V- . 403 0 0
L.7600 0 0
Cases where assistance has been received from the Parliamen-
tary grant : —
St Enoch's Infant and Juvenile School, . L.I 885 0 0
St George's, now St Peter's do.
Anderston and St Mark's do.
St James', two schools,
Bridgegale, one school,
St Paul's Infant and Juvenile do.
St Luke's, one school,
950 0 0
2080 0 0
900 0 0
300 0 0
1400 0 0
850 0 0
Normal Seminary, 1 Infant, 6 Juvenile ; these may be consider-
ed as supplying schools to St Stephen and Milton parishes, 6500 0 0
L. 14865 0 0
Deduct Government grants in these cases, 3605 0 0
Leaving subscribed by Established Church, ;. ' : L.I 1260 0 0
Add, ',-. - 7600 0 0
L. 18860 0
In addition, Government grants have been received for
Bridgetown Church, two schools, L.600 0 0
Brownfield Church, do. -.., i 600 0 0
WelUPark, do. * , 500 0 0
Chalmers, do. . 760 0 0
L.2460 0 0
ARTICLE GLASGOW. 919
In several of the other new churches subscriptions are raising
for the erection of schools. And money is of course raised, at least
to a parallel amount with the grant. Several of the schools are
little more than opened ; hut, including the parishes where
schools, though not built, have been rented, and which have for
years dispensed all the advantages of a cheap and excellent edu-
cation, the whole number of children in these different schools in
strict connection with the Establishment cannot be much under
5000. To which may be added for four schools on the maximum
salary in the Barony, and ten besides, which receive from L. 2 to
L.I 5 for teaching poor children, 1235 ; total 6235.
It may be noticed that all the new churches, with the exception
of St Stephen's and Milton, which are situated so near to the Nor-
mal Seminary as to be able to avail themselves of its schools, are
provided with schools of their own, or have the prospect of them ;
and that in all the schools, without exception, the most improved
modes of teaching are employed.
With regard to the Gaelic churches, should it be asked whether
any schools are set apart for the education of the Gaelic popula-
tion, we are glad to have it in our power to state that two large
charity schools, — the Highland and M'Lauchlan's, are intended
for children of Highland origin, and teach 570 children, at an
annual cost of L. 1400. In one of the schools, the children
are clothed and apprenticed out at the expense of the insti-
tution. It may be added, that the other leading charity
schools, such as Hutcheson's Hospital, Millar's, and Wilson's,
were all founded by members of the Established Church, and
where additional bequests have been made, proceeded from
the same quarter. In these five great charity schools alone, near-
ly 900 children are taught, besides many clothed, at an annual
expense of L. 3013. Wilson's school cost originally L.2054.
Its expenditure on education from 1818 to 1837, has been not less
than L. 5000. In several of the others, the sum has been much
larger. Such institutions are highly creditable to the enlightened
patriotism and Christian spirit of Glasgow. It need scarcely be
added, that all are under the direction of the ministers of the
Church, in some cases aided by the elders, and that the education
is based upon religion. Several additional charity schools are in
the course of being raised.
From a Parliamentary return on the application of the sum
920 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
of L. 20,000, voted of late years for education to Scotland, it
appears that almost the whole sum has been appropriated by.
parties connected with the Established Church. This could
only have been done by their previously raising a proportional sum
themselves. Several years ago, thirty-six grants had in this way
been made to the friends of the church, generally to kirk-sessions,
(now they must be much more numerous,) and twenty additional
applications were lying over, waiting for a new Parliamentary grant.
By a strange perversity, some have misinterpreted the result of the
Government Education Returns of 1833-34. Because the schools in
Scotland not parochial are much more numerous than those which
are parochial, it seems to be inferred that the parochial system is a
weak and inefficient one. The number of parochial schoolsis 1047,
taught by 1170 instructors. The greatest number of children
taught in them from Michaelmas 1833 to Lady-day 1834 is
nearly 80,000. The number of schools not parochial is 3995,
taught by 4469 instructors ; the greatest number of children
taught at the same period, 207,31 0. It is certainly not the fault
of the parochial school system that it has not been more extended.
Even from the returns given above, it would seem that its schools
teach a far higher proportional number of children than those not
parochial. Upon an average there are nearly eighty children in
each school of the one, while there are only fifty in each school of
the other class ; intimating that the parochial school is the school
to which the children of the poor and working-classes have readiest
access. But what are the schools which belong to the class not
parochial ? Are they all private schools, or Dissenting schools ;
and do Dissenters thus prove that they are much better friends of
education than the Established Church ? Far from it. A large
body of them may be said to be endowed, which some consider
the great evil of the parochial system. Under the head of nqt
parochial are included all the burgh and charity schools in towns ;
schools not maintained by fees; and all the schools in the country,
and particularly in the Highlands and Islands, which are support-
ed by societies and subscriptions. We have no means of exactly
knowing what proportion these bear to the schools strictly private,
which depend altogether upon fees ; but there is no question that
they bear a very high proportion. From the returns of schools exa-
mined by the Presbytery of Glasgow, in 1837, it would seem, that, in
the city, where there are no parochial schools, the number of burgh,
ARTICLE GLASGOW. 921
subscription, charity, and society schools, in other words, schools
wholly or partially endowed, is to the mere private schools as
72 to 74. And there is no reason to think, supposing the whole
schools of the city had been examined, that the proportion would
have very seriously differed. The Report of the General Assem-
bly's Education Committee of 1837, (page 81,) gives an account of
the examination of schools in fifty-six presbyteries, and these not in-
cluding the schools in the large towns, nor many of the gram-
mar-schools in landward parishes; and yet out of 2246 schools
examined, the parochial are 687, the not parochial endowed
schools 632, the private schools 927. Thus the parochial and
endowed ^are 1319; but though each of them separately is less
in number than the private schools, yet the education which they
dispense to the community is much more extensive. The pa-
rochial scholars at present are 35,668. The scholars belonging to
endowed schools are 33,330, amounting together to 68,998, while
the scholars in private schools are 38,000. The reader need not
be reminded how generally, almost universally, not only the pa-
rochial but endowed schools may be said, to have originated with
and been supported by the Church. The Society in Scotland for
Propagating Christian Knowledge, and the General Assembly's
Education Scheme, which are both strictly connected with the Esta-
blishment, have themselves 342 schools, and teach 20,000 children.
The Sessional schools, infant and juvenile, of Glasgow, which
belong to the same denomination of school, and which are sup-
ported by the Church, teach, we have seen, not less than 5000.
And even as to the private schools, are they to be rated as Dis-
senting schools, and pleaded against the parochial and endow-
ed ? No idea can be more unwarranted. Whence has origi-
nated, in a great degree, that taste for education which has* cre-
ated private schools, but the previous wide- spread parochial sys-
tem ; and who are generally their teachers, but men who were
educated for the national church, and but for whose professional
education the quality of private teaching would not be half so
good as it is ? It is an important fact, which appears from the re-
turn of the examination of schools last year, that even in Glasgow,
where those not of the Establishment are strong, out of 146 schools
examined, only 32 of the teachers were Dissenters. The remain-
der belonged to the Established Church. It is pleasing to add,
that in very few cases were the presbytery denied admission.
If such a large proportion of the teachers of private schools
922 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
even in Glasgow belong to the Established Church, how much
greater must be the proportion over the country generally ? The
Church of Scotland has never been the enemy of private schools.
Her whole history in connection with education is a proof
of this; but she thinks that schools are most likely to be acces-
sible to the mass of the people where they are endowed,
and where, of course, the education is cheap ; that it is de-
sirable to have some religious security for what is taught the
youth of the nation ; and that such a system as the parochial is
as open as any other to all salutary, intellectual, and literary im-
provement. Whatever improvement, without affecting the great
principles of morality and religion as at present taught, may be in-
troduced into the education of Scotland; (and the Church has
shown that she is not only not backward, but most anxious to pro-
mote these improvements, as the facts of this paper can tes-
tify,) there is one which is of the highest importance, and that is, a
better remuneration to the teacher. It is a sad truth, the data of
which the summary of Education returns for 1833-34 supply, that
the whole emoluments of the 1170 parochial instructors of Scot-
land are upon an average, only L. 47, 6s. over the country ge-
nerally ; and for teachers of private schools the provision is still
lower. In the Highlands it is as low as L. 13. In such cir-
cumstances, how vain is it to expect that there can be any
general or substantial improvement in the system of education as
a whole ! Men, who are so miserably under-paid, can scarcely be
expected to be very well educated themselves, or to persevere
in acquiring improvements, or to teach with spirit and zeal.
Where the qualifications are superior, there must be a strong
temptation to exchange the school for a profession which more
adequately rewards the labour. In every light, the result must
be most injurious to the cause of able and successful teaching.
Ancient Ecclesiastical Record — Religious State of Glasgow
in the end of the Sixteenth Century. — Since the above was
written, an important record has come into the possession of the
presbytery, and I have been requested to give a short ac-
count of it. The record was supposed to be an early volume
of the presbytery minutes, which would have been very va-
luable, as so large a portion of these minutes was destroyed or
greatly injured by fire in 1793; but on examination, it appears
that the record is the kirk-session book of Glasgow from
3d November 1583, to 29th March 1592, extending there-
4
ARTICLE GLASGOW. 923
fore, over little more than eight years. The presbytery are
indebted for this important gift to W. Walker, Esq., a descendant
of the session-clerk of Glasgow ; and the reader is indebted for
the decyphering, which required no small skill, to the Rev. Mr
Leishman of Govan, whose historical and antiquarian attainments
are well known to his friends. The record is valuable, not so
much, perhaps, for the ecclesiastical information as for the picture
of manners which it supplies. It would be vain to attempt, in the
narrow limits of this paper, to give any extracts which could af-
ford the reader an idea of the general contents : I shall therefore
select a few topics bearing on the character of the Church of Scot-
land at that early period. Ecclesiastical history too frequently
deals in mere secularises. I shall refer in the following pages
chiefly to facts and circumstances which bring out the spiritual
character of the Establishment as a church of Christ.
Had not the Rev. Mr Leishman, in the Statistical Account of his
parish, related the anxious labours of the kirk-session of Glasgow
for the maintenance, reparation, and orderly care of the ca-
thedral, I would have noticed this circumstance, so honourable to
the session, as furnishing a complete ^refutation of the com-
mon charge, that the Reformers and their friends were, in their ha-
tred to Popery, enemies to the lawful architectural ornament of
churches. There can be no question that such a charge has been
grossly exaggerated. Both at Perth and Scone, it appears from
Wodrow's MS. collections, that Knox and Erskine of Dun re-
strained and withheld the people from pullingdown the Popish build-
ings. It is certain that the adherents of the Church of Rome could
not have more carefully watched over the cathedral than the early
Protestant Presbyterians. The record, which has lately come to
light, is full of the proof of this. The references to the High
Church are perpetual. I have counted above sixty in the eight
years embraced in the record.
With regard to the population of Glasgow at the period of which
the session record treats, we have no evidence whatever. A \v riter
of some interesting early notices of Glasgow, who is supposed to
have been the late Rev. Dr Porteous, states, that in 1600, ten years
subsequent to the date of which we speak, he had reason to think
the town of Glasgow did not contain above 6000 inhabitants. He
adds, " probably they were considerably below that number/* We
should think they were considerably less. Down to 1587,
a year comprehended within the record, — there was but one mi-
924 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
ulster in Glasgow, Mr David Weems. It would seem that the
population was increasing, and that he felt the duties of the
parish too heavy for him, for in this year Mr John Cowper was ap-
pointed his colleague. Even this arrangement does not seem to
have met the necessities of the case, for three years after an addi-
tional parish was erected, of which Mr John Bell, one of the re-
gents of the University, was appointed minister. This was the Tron
Church parish, and five years later, or in 1595, on an applica-
tion from the people heyond the town, a synodal assembly erected
the Barony into a parish. NMr Rowat was admitted minister, and
peached to his congregation in the Laigh Barony Kirk, which
is now used as a burying-place. Such was the church extension
spirit of these days, that, in forty years after the Reformation, there
were three churches to a population of probably considerably less
than 6000. It would have been well had the same spirit conti-
nued to our day.
In addition to these churches, Blackfriars or the College
Church, was used, but only on week-days, for the week-day
religious exercises, and for the meetings of session. This
leads me to notice, that, .besides the preaching on the Lord's day,
there was preaching in Blackfriars on Wednesdays and Fridays.
This lasted from eight to nine in the morning, and, prior to an ad-
ditional parish being erected, there was an earnest supplication from
the provost and magistrates to the ministers, to have preaching in
two churches on the Lord's day. This seems to be an intimation
at once of their religious spirit, and of the felt and growing wants
of the city. According to M'Ure's History of Glasgow, there
were no more churches in Glasgow than the three- which have
been mentioned, down to 1687. In other words, for nearly a cen-
tury, no provision was made for the increased spiritual wants of the
inhabitants. At that time, on an indulgence being granted by James
II., two large places of worship were immediately erected by the
Presbyterians, who flocked in crowds to hear their own ministers,
who had been so long proscribed. The old churches, which still
remained in the hands of the Episcopalians, and which had never
been well attended, were nearly deserted.
Reverting to the early days of which the Session Record testi-
fies, it appears that the office-bearers of the church, the elders, and
deacons were very numerous, and consisted of the most respecta-
ble— the leading men of the town and parish. The office was
annual, but usually the same persons were re-elected. The provost
and magistrates seem always to have been elders. The name of
ARTICLE GLASGOW. 925
Sir Matthew Stewart of Mynto, Provost of Glasgow, frequently
occurs ; and among the number we meet with that of the Parson
of Renfrew, the Sub-dean of Glasgow, the Principal of the College,
some of the Regents in the University, &c. In 1588, we meet with
the name of Robert Lord Boyd. In that year, there were not less
than 34 elders and 20 deacons ; two years after, 39 elders and
18 deacons ; on another occasion, 42 elders and 24 deacons; and
in 1592, when the second, the additional parish of the Tron was
created, there were 37 elders and 25 deacons. This shows how
strong was the religious spirit of the people. Besides, so large a
body of the choice men of the parish must have formed a power-
ful aid to the minister in his labours. A good man, in a parish of
a few thousands, surrounded by a staff of more than sixty moral la-
bourers, must have felt himself greatly strengthened and encouraged.
With God's blessing, his success must have been insured. In
addition to the elders and deacons, there was an important class of
labourers — the Scripture readers. The session records frequently
speak of them. They seem to have read public prayers and the
Scriptures, where there was no settled minister, and also in some
cases, at least, to have celebrated marriage, and administered dis-
cipline. The name of the reader at Monkland appears in the re-
cords in this connection. In 1591, the stipend of the reader of
Glasgow was L. 20 — paid out of the thirds of the bishoprick.
Even this small sum the session had to defend against the rapa-
city of a factor. The reader in Glasgow seems also to have been
the teacher of music, as he petitions for a seat in the Blackfriars'
Church, which he may occupy with his scholars on the preaching
days.
Turning from those who maybe called office-bearers in the church,
we may now attend to the members; and here, following the session
record as our guide, we find that all were not indiscriminately ad-
mitted to ordinances, as in some modern churches, but, on the con-
trary, that no parent could receive baptism for his child unless
he could "• distinctly tell the commandments of the Eternal God ;
the articles of faith, and the Lord's prayer." When he was found
ignorant or judged unworthy, " some other godly man was to re-
ceive the bairn of the ignorant to be baptized," and he was to be
subjected to the discipline of the church. A similar requirement
was extended to persons desirous of marrying. Until their reli-
gious knowledge was ascertained, they were " judged unworthy to
be joined in that band."
With regard to the Lord's Supper, it was dispensed two Sab-
926 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
bath-days in succession. A similar arrangement obtained in the
West Kirk of Edinburgh about the same period. Indeed, in the
latter three successive Sabbaths, and in particular circum*
stances, even four, at a later day, were occupied in this service.
This indicated a very large attendance at the communion. It
could not be overtaken in one day, and when the care which was
exercised in the admission to the ordinance, to which we shall pre-
sently advert, is taken into account, the result is the more inte-
resting and creditable to the church. It is the proof of a large body
making a public Christian profession. The communion, too, seems
to have been celebrated more frequently than once a year. The
Commendator of Blantyre, who, according to law, was required to
provide the elements, objected to furnishing the bread and wine
more frequently than once a year ; but his objection was imme-
diately met and overcome. Several members of session were ap-
pointed to taste the wine, and see that it was of the best quality.
No person was admitted to the Lord's table until he had under-
gone a satisfactory examination as to his knowledge and charac-
ter, and there were regular catechetical exercises during the year.
Those who did not attend them, though they had been previous-
ly admitted to the ordinance, were excluded. Any one presum-
ing to sit down at the Lord's table, who had contravened these
rules of the church, was to be immediately *4 raised from the table,
and called before the session, to answer for his absence from his
examinations, and for his presuming to come to the communion."
In this way, the religious knowledge of those who had once been
admitted was not suffered to languish, but was kept up and in-
creased. Previous to the dispensation of the Supper, a public
meeting was held of the ministers, elders, deacons, " and the hail
honest men of the town," t hat if any one had any thing to object
to the doctrine of the ministers, or the life of the other office-
bearers of the church, they might have an opportunity of stating
their objection. Another end of the meeting was to ascertain
where any grudges or enmities existed among church members.,
that there might be a reconciliation " before the ministration of
the memorials of the Supper of the Lord Jesus." This meet-
ing was held upon the Wednesday ; another for preaching was
held upon the Saturday afternoon. The first indicates a very
simple and primitive state of society, and, in such circumstances,
might often prove very useful. In the more artificial age in which
we live, a similar procedure might create evils which it was intend-
ed to cure. While the church was far from being lax in admis-
ARTICLE GLASGOW. 927
sion to ordinances, she was very earnest in insisting upon men
making a public profession of religion. Indeed, where this was
withheld, she entertained suspicions of their character and motives.
The Lord's Supper, though not formally used as such, seems often
to have served as a test whether a man were a Papist or a Protestant.
Aware of this, and to cover their Popery, Roman Catholics often
alleged that the reason why they did not communicate was that
they and their neighbours were at variance. This was a false pretence.
Hence, the session in 1589 called upon such persons, notwithstand-
ing their alleged " uncharity," to be resolved " in their consciences,
as the word of God prescribes, and to communicate," under the
pain, if they gave no reasonable excuse to the session within a
certain time, of being summarily excommunicated as Papists.
This may seem a severe measure ; but resistance to Popery was
essential to self-preservation ; and if the church insisted upon men
making a profession of religion, she was eminent for the zeal with
which she laboured to bring them to a suitable standard of know-
ledge and feeling. It may seem almost incredible, but she made
some of her members responsible under a penalty for the instruc-
tion of their brethren. In 1592, " Andrew Barrie was made re-
sponsible for Andrew Blackrode and his wife, under the pain of ten
merks ; John Park for Michael Brooke is under the pain of L, 4 ;
Robert Hutcheson for Janet Park, under the pain of L. 4, or be-
come cautioners and sureties that the said persons shall learn the
commandments betwixt this and the next communion time."
Having contemplated the component parts of the early Protest-
ant Presbyterian Church in Glasgow, the ministers, elders, dea-
cons, and members, we may now, following the guidance of the
same records, advert to the firm stand made by the church against
false doctrine and the violation of God's holy law, and also her
active benevolence to man, prompted by the purest Christian
principles.
The early Church of Scotland was eminent for her thorough
hatred to Popery. She knew its atrocities from experience, and
felt and acted accordingly. She required her people not only to
come out from the Church of Rome, but to put away from them,
and destroy every Popish relic and memorial which might be inter-
preted as giving countenance to the unholy system, or which might
prove ensnaring. Thus, in 1588, " the session ordains Sir Bar-
tholomew Simpson, in whose chamber was yesterday found certain
boards and pictures, being the monuments of idolatry, to pass
immediately thereafter with them to the cross, and set the same
928 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
on fire ; and James Crawford and Walter Heriot are to go with
him to see the same done." Persons possessing the like monuments
are to be constrained to do the same with them. In 1592, the
widow of George Robertson is required to burn " the idolatrous
geir found in her house," at the cross, in a fire made at her own
expense, and to cast it into the flame " with her awin hands." In
the following week, she confesses her sin against God and his
kirk, in keeping beside her " the pictures of the Virgin Mary and
the babe Jesus, as well as mass-clouts, mass-books, and priests'
bonnets." She pays ten merks to the poor previous to her release
from the discipline of the church. There is reason to believe that
the destruction of such monuments of idolatry, and the monaste-
ries and other religious houses, which were receptacles of iniqui-
ty, have been mistaken by hasty and ill-informed writers for the
destruction of churches, as if the Reformers had borne a grudge
at whatever had been used by the Church of Rome, however in-
nocent in itself. The church showed no less zeal against super-
stition than against idolatry. The superstitious observance of
Yule day, brought offenders under the discipline of the kirk-ses-
sion so early as 1583. " The bakers are ordained to be spoken
with in regard to whom they bake Yule meat ;" and three years
later, five men, for most superstitiously observing St Thomas's
eve on the 20th of December, were put in ward over night, and
strictly dealt with. The complaint is, that they passed through
the town on that evening " with pipes and tambours to the
trouble of sundry honest men in the town sleeping in their beds ; and
the raising of the old dregs of superstition used among the Papists."
While the early Protestant church was thus clear and decided
in her hostility to Popish principles and practices, she carefully
guarded the sanctity of God's holy day. A country coming fresh
from Popery could not be expected to yield much reverence to the
Sabbath. In these cases the Saints' days are more regarded than the
Lord's day. Accordingly, we find that Sabbath profanation, in the
forms of the going of milns, the working of kilns, salmon-fishing,
the mowing of meadows, the gathering in of harvest, the casting
of peats, &c. were not uncommon. These are forbidden under a se-
vere penalty ; in one case a fine of L. *2. Moreover, one of the ma-
gistrates is appointed to perambulate the town during divine ser-
vice, to see who are at work. A singular entry in the record under
this head is found in April 1592: "The session, perceivingthe Sab-
bath to be profaned anew by the beggars and youth in the town, in
bickering and bringing in of vain play? or dances, that hereafter there
ARTICLE GLASGOW. 029
be neither men's sons, apprentices, nor poor ones, that shall be found
to bicker on the Sunday, or profane the said day by their plays ;
but that the fathers of the said sons, and the masters of the said
apprentices, shall pay to the treasurer of the kirk for the first fault
20s, for the second 30s., and so on toties quoties ; and that the
beggars be banished the town for ever without hope of their regress
to the same."
Nor did the faithful men of Glasgow in these early days con-
tent themselves with the protection of the day of God ; — they re-
membered the claims of benevolence. They dealt in acts of
positive kindness to their fellow-men. The love of God led to
the love of man. At a period when the stipends of ministers,
where they existed, did not exceed 400 or 500 merks, a most
affectionate regard was paid to the wants of the poor; the session
records are full of references to them. In 1588, the town seems
to have been overrun with beggars. Indeed, that great social
change, though in a partial degree, was going forward in Scotland,
which led in the reign of Elizabeth to the enactment of the poor-
laws of England. The superior ecclesiastical system of this poorer
country, warded off what for so many generations has proved a
curse to the sister land. Regular collections were made at the
church-doors for the relief of the poor. These upon an average
extended from L.I to L. 3 Scots, or about 3s. 3d. Sterling. This
may seem a small sum, but, taking into account the value of money,
it was not really so. About that period a boll of wheat could be
had for 2s. 6d. of our money, and the carcase of the best sheep
was sold in Edinburgh for lOd. Hence it appears that the col-
lection for the poor was very considerable. In 1588, it is stated
that the box contained L. 22 in 'silver, which was equally divided
for distribution in the town into four parts. When the church
collections, owing to any particular pressure of destitution, were
found inadequate, recourse was had to subscription, and ministers,
magistrates, elders, &c. became collectors. We read of one per-
son in this way bringing in 6 merks, 6s. 8d ; another 10 merks,
16s.; another 20s. ; another 31s. ; another L. 5, 12s. 8di When
men went round on this errand they are directed to collect " of
those that may spare some of their goods and geirfor the relief of
their poor brethren, and that with all expedition." The power of
granting discretionary relief was exercised by the elders and dea-
cons. Some interesting cases of individual relief are noticed.
Thus, 4s. are granted to one Jamos Kilpatrick to release his cloth-
ing from some sort of pawn. " The kirk ordains John Fife, flesher,
930 SUPPLEMENT TO THE
to be helped by a collection throughout the town next Monday."
A few years later, " the session grants license to John Mudie and
William Millar, to gather in this town on some day they shall
think most meet, some alms to John Maxwell in the Stockwell, for
the relief of him and his poor motherless bairns." But while thus
so kind to the poor, the kindness was exercised in the spirit of
Christian wisdom. At one time the poor were required to pre-
sent a ticket to the session, shewing how the bounty was expend-
ed, that the donors might be satisfied it had not been abused.
The poor, too, were required to attend the public prayers on the
Lord's-day, and only those who did so were allowed " to get meat
in the town." Thus did the Church make her charity subservient
to the spiritual welfare of the poor ; and while the poor were cared
for, no encquragent was given to sturdy beggars. Application was
made to the magistrates to disperse them. In 1586, they seem to
have stood in crowds around the church-door plate, and to have
troubled the collectors. It is ordained that they shall all be put
forth beyond the kirk-door and style, <c except the poor old woman
who sits in the barrow within the kirk." As an evidence of the
number of the poor in those days, it may be mentioned that in the
West Kirk of Edinburgh, when the population of the parish did
not exceed 2000, the number of paupers was 80. Of course there,
as in Glasgow, all were supported by the liberality of the Church.
But our forefathers did not limit their benevolence to the poor
of the parish in which they resided. Like Christian men they
felt for the temporal and the spiritual wants of others at a distance.
Hence we read in the year 1589, that " the session ordains the
supplication of the Blantyre folks, who had their corn destroyed
by hailstones, to be read out the next Sunday, and the said folks
to be helped on the said Sunday." And, what is a still more strik-
ing illustration of Christian liberality, we find that they, amid all
their own poverty and struggles, contributed for the relief of the
suffering churches of Geneva and France. In 1590, it is said,
" touching the relief to the Kirk of Geneva, it is referred to the
council, and for their relief the ministers are ordained to travel
with the council on Saturday next." With regard again to the
French Protestants in 1588, there is the following deliverance : —
" The which day the session ordains Mr Pat. Sharp, Principal
of the College of Glasgow, and Mr John Cowper, one of the
ministers there, to go to the council on Saturday next, and to pro-
pound to them the necessities of the poor brethren of France, ba-
nished to England for the religious cause, and to crave of them
ARTICLE GLASGOW. 931
their support to the said poor brethren." They farther ask the
council to appoint six members of session, three to take up col-
lections in the east of the town, and three in the west ; the whole
to be done with all possible diligence.
It may be added, that, as leprosy was not uncommon in these
days, there was a house for the accommodation of persons affected
with this malady, to which frequent reference is made in the re-
cords. These records speak of the " poor leper folk's house be-
vond the bridge." It is situated in St Ninian's Croft, Gorbals,
and was repaired by the silver exacted from penitent delinquents
by the session. Originally it seems to have been supported by the
feuars, and afterwards by the liberality of the inhabitants of the
town generally. There was also an alms-house, the inmates of
which were required to attend divine service forenoon and after-
noon on the Lord's day, and family worship morning and evening
every day, under the penalty of a forfeiture of the advantages of
the institution if they failed. I have not observed many no-
tices in regard to education ; but there can be little doubt that in
Glasgow, as in other parts of Scotland at that time, there were
most earnest endeavours to promote so important a cause. There
was a grammar-school, which seems to have been well attended,
as, so early as 1586, we read of " a loft in the High Church being
ordered to be prepared for the grammar-school bairns ;" and we
read of a singing-school having been established in Blackfriars or
the College Church. Indeed, considerable exertions were used
by the session and town-council to obtain a properly qualified man.
The Principal of the University's name appears on the list of the
committee appointed to find a music-master ; and a desire is ex-
pressed to encourage not merely vocal but instrumental music.
We may safely conclude, that when this branch of education was
regarded, other and still more substantial parts (so far as the
means of the community allowed) were not neglected. In the
appointment of a beadle in 1590, it is agreed that, in as much as
the office is a public one, and it is most desirable to have a per-
son who can read and write well, therefore steps are to be taken
to obtain the services of one so qualified.
In conclusion, I would simply advert, and that in the way
of obviating an objection and meeting a prejudice to the se-
verity of the church discipline exercised on the days of which
I have been writing. This is a very prominent feature in all
the ecclesiastical records of the period, and is apt to be misin-
terpreted, as if our fathers were harsh and unamiable men.
932 SUPPLEMENT TO THE ARTICLE GLASGOW.
The fraternal kindness, however, which they discover for the
poor, and for foreign churches labouring under persecution,
should, be a sufficient answer to such an imputation. The
true explanation seems to be, that the Protestant church was deal-
ing with men who had come forth fresh from the careless and re-
laxed morality of the Church of Rome ; that the state of man-
ners and society generally was rough, needing strong measures; that
the civil and criminal law was so weak, that an important part of its
duty was devolved on the stronger arm of the ecclesiastical ; and that
our forefathers entertained, and justly, a higher idea of what is due
to church discipline than is common in the easy and luxurious age
in which we live. For what was decidedly intolerant in their pro-
ceedings I offer no defence, save that they had been taught in the
most intolerant of all schools, and that in these days Popery was
so mixed up with treasonable or seditious politics, that, in applying
a strong coercive restraint to its professors, the state, and our fa-
thers were doing no more than obeying the first of all laws — self-
preservation ; a law which would testify a similar exercise of power
in the same circumstances at the present day. For what may ap-
pear unduly severe in the exercise of discipline upon the church's
own members, I have only to say, in addition to what has been
already remarked, that at least it was eminently impartial, and to
a very great degree, in combination with other means, successful
in raising Scotland, in an incredibly brief season, to the highest
pitch of moral and religious feeling of which there is any example
among nations. If we are startled in reading of kirk-sessions im-
prisoning or banishing serious delinquents, or sending them to the
pillory, or requiring them to appear several Sabbath days in suc-
cession at the church-door in sackcloth, bare-headed and bare-
footed, or ducking them in the Clyde, it is to be remembered that
no rank, however exalted, was spared, and -that a special severity
was exercised toward ministers and elders and office-bearers in the
church when they offended. There was no favouritism.* In very
many cases it is to be considered, too, that the punishment inflict-
ed by the session, is .all which is suffered for that offence. In such
circumstances, even where civil»penalties are incurred, it cannot be
accounted undue.
December 1840.
* A Lord Semple's handwriting is found in the record, acknowledging sin, mid
for his offence he is required to stand in sackcloth in the presence of the congre-
gation.
ADDENDA. 933
ADDENDA TO GADDER.
Page 401, line 1,- — In place of " It is surrounded," read
" The extensive loch in the centre of the parish, before referred
to, is surrounded."
Page 404, — Add as follows under the head of Natural His-
tory, in the account of Cadder, which was drawn up by the in-
cumbent, the Rev. Thomas Lockerby : — " The lakes and streams
contain pike, trout, perch, braze, and perhaps every variety of
eels. Large fresh-water muscles are to be found in the canal.
Some of the proprietors were held bound to furnish salmon to the
superior. There are none to be found now in the Bothland, Lug-
gie, or even the Kelvin ; nor are they such streams now as sal-
mon would naturally much frequent. The streams and lochs, and
moors and mosses, and plantations, would furnish more specimens
for the naturalist than Mr Ure has enumerated in his Natural
History of Rutherglen and Kilbride. Some of the animals to be
found in the parish are the following : Adders, badgers, roe-
bucks, marten, and polecats, foxes, hedgehogs, lizards, black,
brown, and water-rats, rabbits, squirrels, weasels. Adders did
at one time very much abound. Twelve have been killed by one
individual in one day. When Gartloch moss was improved, the
labourers dug them out in great numbers. Lizards abound near-
ly as much in some parts of the parish as they do in the deep
mosses at the foot of Benlomond.
The following are some of the fowls : The moor and singing
blackbird, the balcule, bullfinch, buzzard, carrion-crow, curlew,
wild-duck, goldfinch, goatsucker, grouse, gull, water-hen, heron,
ring-tailed and common brown hawk, blue spur, and small martin,
jay-pyet, kingfisher, lark, lapwing, bright, green, and moss linnet,
magpie, moss-cheeper, nightingale, ox-eye, owl, gray plover, par-
tridge, pheasant, common rook, land and water-rail, chaffinch,
snipe, common and mountain thrush, teal, blue, water, and yellow
wagtail, widgeon, woodpecker.
Sea-gulls frequent the west end of the parish some time of the
year in great numbers. It is said by naturalists that the absence
of the nightingale in Northumberland and Scotland is to be at-
tributed to the greater coldness of those parts compared with the
milder air of southern England. It is, nevertheless, said that this
sono-ster has been both seen and heard in Cadder.
O
Page 409, 4th line from the bottom, omit the sentence com-
mencing " It is said that some."
LANARK, 3 O
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
ON LANARKSHIRE.
LANARKSHIRE, or CLYDESDALE, is "bounded on the north and
north-west by the counties of Stirling, Dumbarton, and Renfrew ;
on the north-east, by Mid- Lothian and Linlithgowshire; on the
east, by Peebles-shire ; on the south, by Dumfries- shire; and on the
south -west and west, by Ayrshire. It is situate between 55°, 14',
42", and 55°, 56', 10" of north latitude, and 3°, 22', 51", and 4°,
22', 51" of east longitude. The length of this county, from
Queensberry hill on the south, to near the eastern extremity of
the burgh of Renfrew on the north-west, is 52 miles ; and its great-
est breadth, from the confines of Peebles-shire on the east of Gar-
valdfoot, to the source of the Avon, on the border of Ayrshire, is
33 miles. It contains an area of 926 square miles; or 471,278
Scots statute acres, equal to 581,145 English acres.
Lanarkshire is subdivided into three districts, called the Upper,
Middle, and Lower Wards ; each of which is under the particular
jurisdiction of a sheriff-substitute, appointed by the sheriff-depute
of the county. In the Upper Ward, of which Lanark is the chief
town, are the parishes of Carluke, Lanark, Carstairs, Carnwath,
Dunsyre, Dolphinton, Walston, Biggar, Libberton, Lamington,
Coulter, Crawford, a small part of the parish of Moffat, Crawford-
John, Douglas, Wiston and Roberton, Symington, Covington,
Pettinain, Carmichael, and Lesmahago. In the Middle Ward,
of which the town of Hamilton is the centre, are comprehended
the parishes of Hamilton, Blantyre, Kilbride, Avondale, Glass-
ford, Stonehouse, Dalserf, Cambusnethan, Shotts, Dalziel, Both-
well, East or New Monkland, and West or Old Monkland. The
Lower Ward, lying around the city of Glasgow, contains, besides
the town parishes of that city, and its country or Barony Parish,
the parishes of Calder, Cambuslang, Rutherglen, Carmunnock,
Govan, and a part of Cathcart, the remainder of which is in the
county of Renfrew.
In its ecclesiastical state, it comprehends the presbyteries of
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS, &C. 935
Lanark, Hamilton, Biggar, (with the exception of Skirling, the
united parishes of Broughton, Glenholm, and Kilbucho, in Peebles-
shire,) and the greater part of the presbytery of Glasgow. In the
mountainous and moorland district of the Upper Ward, the parishes
are very extensive ; and the manses are at such distances from
each other, as almost to preclude that frequent intercourse of the
clergy, which is at once so conducive to their social enjoyment,
and so useful in affording them the opportunity of mutual consul-
tation, in regard to the ecclesiastical interests of their individual
parishes, or of the church in general.
Topography. — In a county so extensive as Lanarkshire, the as-
pect is necessarily much diversified. A large district of it towards
Dumfries-shire is bleak and mountainous. Seen from a distance,
especially from an eminence, it presents an appearance equally
confused and uninviting. Hills of various elevation appear so
crowded together as hardly to leave an opening for the approach
of man, and so bleak and barren as to bid defiance to all the efforts
of man to improve them. Their inhospitable aspect is relieved by
no features of grandeur; for they have neither the loftiness, nor
the rugged sternness, which give such sublimity to the mountain
scenery in the Highlands. As we draw nearer them, however, their
forbidding features relax, and scenes of pastoral beauty and even
richness here and there open upon us, the more charming the less
they are expected. On the sides of the least promising hills are
numbers of well-fed sheep ; while, in the valleys below, these are
in some instances mingled with equally thriving herds of black-
cattle. And in the highest and wildest part of the Upper Ward,
holms of considerable beauty stretch on both sides of the Clyde
and its tributaries. Even where these are bare of wood, they pre-
sent, in the richer verdure of their pastures, or in their varied crops,
a pleasing contrast to the dark and comparatively barren appear-
ance of the adjacent hills. But when they are adorned, as they
generally are from Lamington downwards, with old or more re-
cent plantations, they combine with the river and mountain features
of the scenery in presenting a sweetness and even richness of
landscape rarely surpassed. As we proceed northward, the hills
themselves assume a more softened aspect, covered with grass to
their summits; while the straths which they enclose, particularly
Douglasdale, vie in beauty with the valleys on the Clyde. These
hills are gradually softened down to those undulations, for which
Lanark and some of the lower parishes are remarkable; and which
936 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
give so peculiar an appearance to the scenery on both sides of the
Clyde.
Of the scenery around the Falls of Clyde, a correct and vivid
description will be found in the account of the parish of Lanark.
The time to see these falls in all their own magnificence, and all
the richness of their accompanying beauties, is after a heavy fall
of rain, in the months of July, August, or September. Then the
great volume of water dashing at Cora Linn over a precipitous
rock, 84 feet in height, surmounted on each side by lofty banks
crowned with fine old trees in the richest variety of foliage, — the
fanciful yet tastefully appropriate structure of Corehouse perched
like an eyrie on the boldest and highest bank, and harmonizing
finely with the magnificence amid which it is placed, — the spa-
ciousand beautiful domains of Bonnington overlooked by Corehouse
from the opposite bank, and sloping down to the handsome, clean,
and thriving establishment of New Lanark, where a numerous and
happy manufacturing population pursue, under the most judicious
regulations, their profitable industry — exhibit one of the most in-
teresting pictures that is anywhere to be seen of the grandeur of
nature and the triumphs of art, — the dignity of baronial magnifi-
cence blending with the comforts of manufacturing wealth.
From this part of the Clyde, the scenery through which it passes
in its course through Lanarkshire, is particularly beautiful and rich.
From Lanark to Hamilton is one continued orchard; and when
the fruit-trees are in blossom, the drive through it is one of the
most delightful that can be enjoyed. The county becomes, after
that, open,champaigne, rich, and well cultivated, even at a conside-
rable distance from the banks of the river. But there are extensive
tracts of it which form a dreary contrast to these scenes of beauty and
fertility; and the traveller who enters Lanarkshire from the south,
the south-east, the east, or north-east, finds himself in very cheer-
less wastes of bleakness and sterility.
Soil and Cultivation. — The diversity of soils in this county corre-
sponds with its diversity of aspect. According to Naismith's com-
putation, between two-thirds and three-fourths of the Upper Ward
is occupied by hill or moorland, not capable, from the elevation of
the country, of much agricultural improvement. Forty-two years,
however, in a country, where enterprize has been so active, and weal th
so rapidly progressive as in Lanarkshire, necessarily produce great
improvements in cultivation and in soil ; and were Naismith now to
visit the Upper Ward, he would find beautiful seats and a smiling
country, in places which he would in 1798 have pronounced al-
ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 9;j7
most irreclaimable. Within the last few years, the tract of country
along the line of the great road to Carlisle presents to the eye of
the traveller hundreds of acres bearing rich crops, where he for-
merly saw nothing but cheerless unproductive moss. Similar im-
provements have taken place in situations less open to general ob-
servation ; and although a very large proportion of the Upper
Ward »is still unconscious of the plough, as being better adapted
to pasture than to tillage, and in many places, indeed, so hope-
lessly bleak, as to forbid all attempts of the agriculturist, the pro-
portion is certainly considerably less than Naismith estimates it.
It is owing to the elevation, however, rather than the soil, that so
large a portion of this Ward is kept in pasture. Even where
tillage has not been attempted, the pasture lands have been greatly
improved by surface-draining, which is now almost universal in the
moorland districts ; and in some of the highest and wildest parts
of the county, the verdant spots that here and there give indica-
tion of their former cultivation as croft-land, and the parks, browsed
by thriving cattle, and fields bearing good crops of corn, near the
farm-houses, prove what might yet be done in reclaiming waste
lands, and hold out the most tempting inducements to farther im-
provement. It is impossible to travel over the wide tracts of moor,
in a great proportion of which a soil naturally good is left com-
paratively useless through neglect, without regretting that landlord
and tenant were not more alive to their mutual interests in improv-
ing it; that the enterprize and industry of the farmer were not
more stimulated by the fostering encouragement of the proprietor.
The improvements might be gradually carried on with but little
annual outlay; and although it would be, in many instances, a
mere waste of industry and means to attempt to convert it into a
corn country ; — by draining marshy ground, turning it up with the
plough, quickening it with lime, and after taking a crop or two,
sowing it down with the best kinds of perennial grasses, sound and
nutritive pasture might be brought to cover and beautify vast
tracts, that now lie in the most cheerless, unprofitable, and un-
seemly state. Let only a little be done on each moorland farm in
this way annually — a due premium or allowance being made to the
tenant — and what a change might within a short time be made in
the appearance and value of the country !
The quality of the soil does not always correspond with the
elevation. In the highest parts of the Upper Ward, the soil is, in
some places, particularly fertile. As the most solid bodies, when
938 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
they cease to increase, tend to dissolution, even the trap rocks ex-
foliate ; and the decomposed matter, wherever it lodges, produces
a fertility whic i displays itself in the deep verdure of the herbage.
The decomposition of freestone, on the contrary, tends only to
sterility. From this cause the pastures on the heights of Crawford,
upon hard rock, covered with a thick mixture of short heath and
sweet grasses, and sometimes with a close verdant carpet with very
little heath, are particularly sound and healthy. The principal
part of the arable land in this part of the county, lies in the pa-
rishes around Tinto, along the side of the Clyde. The alluvial
soil of the meadows is of the nature of carse ground, and 4s ex-
ceedingly fertile. In the uplands, which are, with a few exceptions,
of a light and friable quality, with an under stratum of sand or
gravel of considerable depth, the soil is likewise fertile. At a
greater distance from the river, the soil is in many places moorish
and spongy. In the greater part of the parishes of Lanark and
Lesmahago the soil is light, friable, and dry, bearing a resem-
blance to that in the neighbourhood of Tinto, though less fertile.
In the lower part of Lesmahago, the clay soil begins to appear.
In Carluke parish, a great proportion of the land is clay, or has a
dense argillaceous bottom, and is damp, cold, and sterile. Part
of it, however, is of better quality, and that portion of the parish
which borders on the Clyde is equally fertile and picturesque.
The Middle Ward, although it exhibits great diversity of soil, is
generally of a clayey nature, with a greater or less intermixture of
sand, and varies greatly in colour, conformation, and fertility.
The bottom is solid and argillaceous, — sometimes apparently homo-
geneous, composedof regular horizontal laminae, — but more gene-
rally of a mixed nature, without the appearance of divisions, and
mixed up with small roundish stones of different kinds. Small
tracts of sandy or gravelly soil sometimes occur; and when a bed
of this description is of tolerable depth, the land is dry ; but where-
ever the under stratum of clay approaches the surface, the soil is
light and wet. In the valleys along the Clyde and other consider-
able streams, a deep, rich alluvial soil lies upon a bed of open
gravel. At a distance from the river is frequently found a thin
loose soil, lying upon a clay bed, apt to heave with the changes of
the weather, and unfit for every useful kind of vegetable produc-
tion. Somewhat similar to this, but more productive of grass, is
the black or grey soil on the high moorish grounds. A large
proportion of the Middle Ward is occupied with moss or peat
ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. J)39
earth. This is of two kinds. The one is generally of a mo-
derate thickness, composed of decayed vegetables produced by a
cold watery soil and damp atmosphere. " As those vegetables,"
says Naismith, u which are nourished by a genial heat and kindly
soil, are quickly susceptible of the putrid fermentation, and, in
rotting, fall into loam, so those that thrive in cold moisture have
something in their nature which, in a great measure, preserves
their form and bulk even in decay ; and by the growth of one year
above another through the lapse of time, in a neglected country,
they accumulate into beds of this inflammable earth. Almost all
the tribe of mosses ( MusciJ, and some other aquatic plants are
of this nature. When those beds lie on low ground, where water
can carry particles of heavy earth upon them, they are thus renr
dered less porous, and produce a considerable quantity of grass ;
when they are on the rising grounds, heath and deer-hair (Scirpus
ccespitosusj are the chief productions." The other kind lies ge-
nerally in plains or hollows above the eminences, and is of
considerable depth. All of these have in former times been the
site of large forests ; some of the trees of which having fallen down
across the water-course, and interrupted whatever was brought along
by the stream, first formed dams, and finally converted the whole
into a standing pool. As the standing water prevailed over the roots
of the trees, they would die, one after another, till the whole forest
was laid prostrate. Mosses and a variety of aquatic herbage have
grown over these from age to age, till they have extended to great
masses of spongy matter, called Flow-mosses. These are much
more extensive in that, district than mosses of the former descrip-
tion ; and as the abundance of coals renders peats of little request
as fuel, these flow-mosses, which produce but little esculent herb-
age, are of scarcely any value. The highest ridge on the eastern
side of Clyde runs along the eastern extremity of Cambusnethan,
through the middle of Bertram Shotts, and then through East
Monkland, declining a little as it proceeds westwards. In these
three parishes, particularly in Shotts, lies the greatest part of the
mosses on this side of the river. Of the rest of the soil along this
ridge, a great part is moorish, coarse, and wet. Along the Cal-
der, however, which divides Cambusnethan from Shotts, there is,
on both sides of that stream, a track of good soil. Near its course
the land is light, sandy, or gravelly, and pretty dry ; farther down
it becomes a strong clay. The ridge on the opposite side, begin-
ning in the parish of Avondale, is a continuation of the hilly range
940 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
which divides the parishes of Douglas and Lesmahago from Ayr-
shire. From Avondale it runs through the parishes of Kilbride,
Cambuslang, and Carmunnock to the county of Renfrew. Here
the wilds are much more extensive than on the east of the Clyde,
— tracts of many miles producing little else than mosses, bent-
grass, or heather. The arable land of Avondale, but a small pro-
portion- of the whole, lies in the lower part of the parish. It is
mostly a gravelly soil, in many instances fertile, and producing, in
particular, when laid down after proper tillage, abundance of good
grass. Of the parish of Kilbride, more than three-fourths are
arable. On the south-east the soil, lying upon a hard open rock, is
free and pretty fertile ; to the north and west it becomes a stiff clay ;
on the west boundary, it is a happy mixture of these two kinds,
and extremely productive. The parishes of Stonehouse and Glass-
ford, along the banks of the Avon, are mostly arable, and the soil
is good. In Stonehouse a considerable portion is sandy, and " of
a pleasant improveable quality." In Glassford it is more generally
gravelly, and mostly dry, although springs sometimes occur. As
the land recedes from the Avon on both sides, the argillaceous
bottom approaches nearer the surface, and is covered either with
a grey moorish soil, or with a soft clay, frequently thin and moist.
In the high parts of Glassford, there is a considerable extent of
moss. The remaining part of the Middle Ward, comprehending
the lower part of Cambusnethan, the parishes of Dalziel, Both-
well, and West Monkland on the east and north of the river, and
Dalserf, Hamilton, and Blantyre on the west and south, a track of
upwards of twelve miles in length, and averaging nearly six miles
in breadth, may vie in beauty and interest with any tract of similar
extent in Britain. The soil and climate are peculiarly favourable
to the growth of wood ; and spontaneous copsewoods everywhere
adorn the hanging banks. There, too, are those beautiful and rich
orchards, for which Clydesdale has long been so deservedly cele-
brated, embosomed in woods by the foot of the rising slopes ; while
the opening vales, rich and well cultivated, present to the admiring
spectator, wherever a glimpse of them is to be caught, the sweet-
est verdure or the most luxuriant crops. In this track, clay is the
predominating soil ; sandy and gravelly soils are rare, except in
West Monkland, in which parish, too, at its greatest distance from
the Clyde, occur the only mosses in this interesting track. On
some of the higher grounds, we meet with that loose heaving soil,
to which we have already adverted, of a quality peculiarly bad.
ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 941
The Lower Ward, though naturally less interesting, is, from its
possessing Glasgow within its bounds, the most important of the
three. Of the parish of Cambuslang part is occupied by a rocky
eminence called Ditchmount, the soil upon and around which is
light and stony, while that of the rest of the parish is mostly clay,
excepting upon the verge of the Clyde. The soil of Carmunnock
resembles that of Cambuslang, only that, as it does not approach the
Clyde, it wants the rich alluvial land, which, in the former parish,
lies contiguous to the river. Of Rutherglen the higher part is
clay ; the lower is either sandy or rich alluvial soil along the Clyde.
The greater part of Govan parish is sand, — the original poverty
of which is now almost forgotten in the productiveness to which it
has been brought by skilful culture, aided by the facility of pro-
curing manure from Glasgow, and incited by the certain prospect
of a lucrative return. The Barony parish is exceedingly diversified.
The holms or valleys of Dalmarnock are peculiarly^ fertile. Of
the knolls in the north side of the parish the tops are, in many in-
stances, hard and stiff, the bottoms wet and spongy. In other
places, the soil has been originally poor ; but here, as in Govan,
the spirit of improvement, stimulated by the encouragement of
local situation, has created fertility where it did not before exist.
Of Cadder, or Calder parish, the middle is moist, moorish, and
barren ; but in its borders all around, there is a great deal of good
soil, mostly light and pretty dry.
Before closing this account of the different soils in the county,
we may remark, that land on the same parallel, other circumstances
being equal, is always of more value in proportion to the compa-
rative lowness of the situation, the quality of the herbage on the
more elevated lands being less succulent, and the reproduction
slower when in grass, and the grain, when they are in corn, being
less plump, less perfectly ripened, and later. The nature of the
subsoil, or under stratum, has likewise most important influence ;
moist exuding bottoms producing grain of inferior quality, and late
in ripening. The arable land along the Clyde, above the Falls,
is superior to any in the lower part of the county, not only to fields
nearly on the same level along the ridges of the country, but ex-
ceeding in intrinsic fertility even the tine low grounds, which are
less elevated by 400 or 500 feet. In this higher district, the mea-
dows or valleys by the river side are alternately cropped, and left
for a few years in grass ; and, without receiving any manure, con-
tinue to yield abundant crops. The uplands, when properly freed
942 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
of weeds, are very productive, with half the manure which is ne-
cessary in the lower parts of the county ; and the harvests are ge-
nerally earlier.
Hydrography. — In the hydrography of Lanarkshire, the princi-
pal feature, — a most important and interesting one — is the Clyde.
This river, next to the Tay the largest in Scotland, and, beyond
comparison, the first in commercial importance, has its rise
near Queensberry Hill, at the southern extremity of the county,
about 1400 feet above the level of the sea. It is at first a small
rivulet, called Crossburn. This flows into a stream called the Daer,
which, after a course of a few miles, is joined by the Little Clyde,
an inferior stream, which rises at the foot of Clydeslaw, near the
sources of the Tweed and Annan, and, by an usurpation similar to
what occurs in the case of the Nile, and some other important
rivers, defrauds the larger stream of the honour of giving its name
to the river formed by their united waters. Seen from the top of
Tinto, in a fine summer day, this noble river is one of the most
interesting objects which perhaps any landscape can present.
Towards its source, it appears like a thread of silver, expanding
as it approaches nearer the spectator's eye, into a broader and more
splendid line, and flowing through a country richer in beauty, as
well as more distinctly seen. After sweeping past Tinto in a north-
east course, which it has pursued for several miles, it seems, by an
ample curve, which it takes on the borders of Culter parish, to be
making an effort to return to its mountain scenery, for it now flows
to the west.
At this point of its course a phenomenon sometimes oc-
curs, which ^naturally gives rise to speculations of some interest.
The waters of the- Clyde are occasionally discharged into those
of the Tweed. So slightly elevated above the bed of the Clyde
is the vale of Biggar- water, which stretches between the two
rivers, that, in a high flood, the Clyde pours some of its
waters into the Biggar, by which they are borne to the Tweed.
This happens not only at long intervals, as in the course of a cen-
tury, but once in three or four years, evincing with what facility
the Clyde might be diverted into the channel of the border river.
Had our southern neighbours, when their hostile incursions were
so frequent and harassing, been able to foresee, and to estimate
the commercial superiority which they would have acquired, and
the injury which they would have inflicted on our nation, by mak-
ing the Clyde a tributary to their boundary river, discharging its
waters, with those of the Tweed, at Berwick, who can calculate
ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 943
on the changes that might thus have been produced in the rela-
tive conditions of the two kingdoms?
From Wolf Clyde, where the river takes the remarkable curve
above-mentioned, its course is nearly west by north, till, about a
quarter of a mile below Hyndford Bridge, it makes another re-
markable bend to the north, and flowing in that direction between
more contracted banks, and over a more rocky bed, forms the suc-
cessive romantic falls of Bonnington, Cora Linn, and Stonebyres. In
the rest of its course, it is comparatively smooth, flowing through
a country of peculiar richness and beauty, and becoming at Glas-
gow the medium of the most important branch of the commerce of
Scotland.
Since the date of the last Statistical Account, this river has
undergone the most material improvements. With the progress
of commerce and manufactures in Glasgow, the advantage, and,
indeed, the necessity, of rendering it a convenient port, has been so
strongly felt, that, to this object, the attention of the citizens has
been most eagerly and successfully directed. Seventy years since,
the depth of the Clyde, at the mouth of the Kelvin, was, accord-
ing to a survey made by the celebrated James Watt, only 3
feet, 8 inches, at high water, and 1 foot, 6 inches, at low water.
Twenty years after, no vessels of more than forty tons burden
could come up to Glasgow. Twenty-two years since, the river
was navigable to the Broomielaw for vessels of 170 or 180 tons,
and drawing 9 feet, 6 inches of water. Within fourteen years after,
vessels drawing 13 feet, 6 inches, could reach the city ; and now
vessels from all the quarters of the globe, some of them of upwards
of 600 tons burden, and drawing 16 or 17 feet of water, are frequent-
ly to be seen lining in triple rows nearly the whole length of the har-
bour. In the year from July 1816 to July 1817, the revenue of
the river was L. 7028, Os. 7d. This year it exceeded L, 40,000.
A new quay, faced with blocks of granite, and about 2000 feet
in length, has lately been formed on the south side of the Clyde.
A magnificent plan has been formed for still further widening and
deepening the river, and building ample docks on the south bank.
It is proposed to apply for a Parliamentary loan of L. 300,000, to
assist in carrying this plan into effect.
In its progress through the county of Lanark, to which, till
it passes Glasgow, its course is wholly confined, this fine river
receives many tributary streams. Of these, besides the Daer
already mentioned, the principal are the Duneaton, which, rising
at the foot of Cairntable, flows through the parish of Craw-
9-14 GENE JAL OBSERVATIONS
fordjohn, and, for some miles before joining the Clyde, has
"an average breadth of about 40 feet ; the Douglas, which,
flowing through the beautiful dale to which it gives name, falls
into the Clyde, near Harperfield, a little above the Bonnington
Falls ; the Culter, which, passing through a pretty glen, divides
the parish of the same name ; the Medwins, north and south, the
former of which, rising on the north-east of the parish of Carn-
wath, and pursuing a south-west course, is joined in the south of the
parish by its sister stream, which rises near Garvaldfoot, in the
parish of West Linton, after a course of nine miles, about a mile
and a half from the junction of the united streams with the Clyde ;
the Mouse, which, rising in the north of Carnwath, flows in a west-
ward course through the centre of Carstairs parish, still and slug-
gish, but, on entering the parish of Lanark, winds through the pe-
culiarly bold and picturesque glen of Cartlane Craigs, soon after
emerging from which it falls into the Clyde, opposite the village
of Kirkfield bank ; the Nethan, which, rising in the west of Lesma-
hago parish, and mutually giving and receiving beauty, as it winds
among the fine seats that adorn its banks, falls into the Clyde at
Clydesgrove, after passing the picturesque and interesting ruin of
Craignethan Castle, the Tillie Tudlem Castle of Old Mortality ;
the Avon, which, rising on the confines of Ayrshire, flows through the
parish of Avondale, dividing it into two nearly equal parts, through
the parish of Stonehouse, being in one part of its course the
boundary between that parish and Glassford, and separating it, on
another, from Dalserf, then passes into Hamilton, at Millheugh
Bridge, a little below which it forces its way through a rocky de-
file of uncommon grandeur and picturesque effect ; its banks often
towering to the height of 250 and 300 feet, and crowned with
aged oaks, and other hard-wood ; emerging from this defile it
flows through the haughs of Hamilton, till it blends with the Clyde
at Hamilton Bridge ; the South Calder, which, rising in the moor-
land grounds near Tarrymuck, in Linlithgowshire, flows westward,
forming, for upwards of nine miles, the boundary between the pa-
rishes of Shotts and Cambusnethan ; it then turns to the north-
west, separating Dalziel from Shotts, forming part of the southern
boundary of Bothwell, and mingles with the Clyde, after a course
of about twenty miles ; the North Calder, having its source near
the farm of Bertram Shotts parish, and flowing through Old Monk-
land, falls into the Clyde at Daldowie ; — of both these streams,
the banks are, in general, beautifully wooded, and adorned with
many fine seats ; the Calder water, called also the Rotten Calder,
ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 945
which, rising in Eldrig moor, in the parish of Kilbride, and flowing
through a considerable part of that parish under the name of
Park burn, reaches the parish of Blantyre, at a point where it is
joined by the Rottenburn, forms the boundary between that pa-
rish and Kilbride, and Cambuslang, and falls into the Clyde at
Turn wheel; the Kelvin, which, rising in Kilsyth parish, Stirlingshire,
flows along the northern boundary of the county, bordering Govan
parish on the east, and part of the Barony parish of Glasgow on
the west, and joins the Clyde near the village of Govan.
There are few lakes of any consequence in this county. The
Craneloch in Dunsyre parish, elevated 800 feet above the water
level, in a bleak inhospitable desert, is about a mile in circumfe-
rence. The White Loch, to the west of the village of Carnwath,
is about the same extent, but is finely wooded on the south and
west sides. Langloch, to the south-east of the parish of Lanark,
between the town of Lanark and Hyndford Bridge, although nar-
row, is of considerable length. In Old Monkland are Bishop's
Loch, covering a space of 80 acres, Woodend Loch, 50 acres, and
Lochend, 40 acres. In Cadder parish there are two lochs, one of
considerable extent, in the centre of the parish, called Lum-
loch, the other called Loch Grog, which, in consequence of drain-
ing, are now almost dry, and capable of tillage ; besides these are
Robroyston Loch, which is fast filling up ; Johnston Loch about a
mile in circumference ; and Gartinqueen Loch, supplied by a
streamlet from the parish of New Monkland. In the Barony pa-
rish of Glasgow are the Slogganfield and Frankfield lochs, which
supply streams for the town mills. But the largest and most im-
portant lake in the county is the reservoir for supplying the Forth
and Clyde and the Monkland canals. That reservoir is formed by
art, and covers about 300 acres of land, situate in the parishes of
New Monkland and Shotts. These canals themselves form, next
to the Clyde, the most interesting feature in the hydrography of
the county. The Monkland Canal, issuing from the above-men-
tioned reservoir, proceeds nearly north-west to Glasgow, affording a
cheap communication between that city and the collieries of Old and
New Monkland, and yields a revenue of about L.I 5,000. The Forth
and Clyde Canal passes through the Barony parish and Cadder.
Geology and Mineralogy. — In the southern extremity of the coun-
ty, the mountain ranges are chiefly composed of grey wacke and trap-
rocks. These indeed are the predominant rocks in the extensive
range of hills which runs from the confines of Ayrshire eastward to
946 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
the Pentlands. These hills present an interesting field to the stu-
dent of geology, particularly as connected with the mineralogy of the
county in general. According to the scientific view given by Mr
Patrick, to whose able accounts of several of the parishes in this
and some of the neighbouring counties this work is so greatly in-
debted, " if we take the granite rocks of Galloway as the base, we
have superincumbent upon them, I. the greywacke of Leadhills
and Wanlockhead," and he might have added of the mountain range
in general to the south, south-west, and south-east of the county ;
" 2, the red sandstone over which the Clyde is'precipitated at Lanark;
and 3. the coal formation of the Middle and Lower Wards, con-
sisting of bituminous shale, coal, grey limestone, grey sandstone and
clay ironstone, thus affording a beautiful illustration of the transi-
tion and carboniferous epochs."
In the high regions of Leadhills and the vicinity, the sterility
of the surface is compensated by the precious minerals which
the earth contains in her bosom. Rich veins of lead, which have
been wrought for centuries, still yield annually about 700 tons.
Silver is contained in the lead, but in too small quantity to
repay the expense of extracting it. Gold is found disseminat-
ed in minute particles through the till or clay nearest the
rocks< and also occasionall yinterspersed in quartz. The search
for this precious metal was at one time conducted on an extensive
scale. James V. employed miners from Germany in this work,
and had the gold thus procured, which was of very fine quality,
wrought out into an elegant coin, bearing an effigies of himself,
wearing a bonnet, and thence called the bonnet-piece. Copper
ore has likewise been found here, and a vein of antimony was dis-
covered towards the close of the last century. In the mineral dis-
trict of Leadhills, which occupies a space of about three miles in
length by two and a half in breadth, the strata of greywacke and
greywacke slate are associated with transition clay-slate, in a verti-
cal position, through which the metalliferous veins pass. A basaltic
vein, from 50 to 60 yards in breadth, crosses from east to west, pre-
senting detached masses on the surface, which have in many instan-
ces a pentagonal form. A thick and vertical bed of flinty slate, de-
generating on each side into a clayey substance, and through which
the metallic veins do not penetrate, occurs also among those transi-
tion rocks, and points north-west and south-east. Irregular beds
and masses of felspar rock are likewise to be met with. The
principal lead veins run south-east and north-west with a dip to the
ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 947
east of one foot in three. Besides the common and the compact
galena, which are the principal ores, these veins contain small
quantities of green, black, and yellow lead ores, white and black
carbonates, sulphate, and sulphate-carbonates of lead, phos-
phates of lead, copper and iron pyrites, malachite, azure copper
ore, grey manganese, blende, and calamine. Of the accompanying
minerals, the most prevalent are, quartz, calcareous spar, brown
spar, sparry ironstone, heavy spar, &c. Veins of lead have been
found in the conterminous parish of Crawfordjohn, and might be
wrought to ad vantage. Mineral indications, chiefly of heavy-spar, re-
sembling that at Leadhills and Wanlockhead, induced attempts to
discover lead at Cummertrees, in the high lands of Lesmahago, at
Howgate Mouth on Tinto in Carmichael, and at Newholm in Dol-
phinton, but without success.
In most of the parishes in the Upper Ward ironstone is
found ; but in none has it been wrought except in Carnwath
and Carluke. At Wilsontown in Carnwath, an iron-work of
considerable extent has been in operation since 1781, — except-
ing an interval of nine years, from 1Q12 to 1821. In Carluke,
works have recently been commenced by the Shotts and Coltness
Iron Companies, which have two furnaces in full operation : these
works promise to be exceedingly productive. In Cambusnethan the
black-band ironstone is found in considerable abundance; and at the
eastern extremity of the parish, the Shotts Company have two blast-
furnaces constantly employed. In the parish of Bertram Shotts
there are two iron-works, the one in the south-east, the other
in the south-west of the parish. The former, established by a
few private individuals in 1802, has ever since continued under
the very able and prosperous management of Mr John Baird.
Besides two blast-furnaces, which produce 160 tons of pig-iron
weekly, and a third, now nearly completed, there is connected
with the establishment a large engineering manufactory, in which
steam-engines and other machinery of the best quality are con-
structed : and of still longer standing is its extensive foundery, se-
cond in importance to that of the Carron Company. The Omoa
Works, at the south-east of the parish, were erected in 1787, and
have at present one furnace in operation. The parish of New
Monkland abounds in ironstone of the most valuable kind, which
is found partly in balls and partly in seams. The most common
seams are, the mussel-band and the black-band ; the latter of
which, particularly valuable, is generally found about fourteen fa-
thoms below the splint coal. From this parish the iron-works of
948 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
Carron, Clyde, Calder, Gartsherrie, and Chapel Hall are partly
supplied with ironstone.
But it is in the parish of Old Monkland that the iron ma-
nufacture is carried on to the greatest extent. The seven
companies who carry on this manufacture in the parish have
already 34 furnaces in blast, 1 out of blast, 4 in the process of
building, and 18 contemplated. To give an idea of the energy
with which this manufacture has been conducted, and of the ra-
pidity with which it has extended, we may state, that, in 1794, only
3600 tons of pig-iron were produced with the consumption of
36,000 tons of coals ; in 1839, the produce of pig-iron was
J 76,800 tons, and the consumption of coals 530,400 tons. The
magnificent and ingenious apparatus employed in these works, or
in the course of preparation ; the activity of the workmen, with
its stupendous results, exhibit a display of human ingenuity and
industry, and of the power of science and skill, eminently worthy
of the attention of the curious, and which cannot be seen without
equal wonder and gratification. This parish itself, abounding as
it does in ironstone of the best quality, cannot furnish a sufficient
supply for these extensive works, which depend for their chief
supplies on the adjoining parish of New Monkland. About nineteen
pits of ironstone are wrought in Old Monkland, producing the
upper black-band, which is of inferior quality ; and the black-
band, properly so called, which is particularly valuable, from the
quantity of coal with which it is connected, and which renders
much less fuel necessary in working it. This mineral is a certain
source of wealth to the proprietor on whose lands it is found. On
Rochsilloch, in New Monkland, the property of Sir William
Alexander, an annual income of L. J 2,600 is realized from this
mineral ; while the same land, if let for tillage, would not yield
half as many hundreds. In that part of the Gorbals which be-
longs to the parish of Govan, Mr William Dixon has extensive
iron works, in which he has four hot-blast furnaces, and intends to
erect as many more ; the average produce of the whole of which
will be 4000 tons of pig-iron. He is likewise constructing a bar-iron
manufactory, which is to have 42 puddling furnaces, calculated to
produce 400 tons of bar-iron weekly. In coal-mines at Jordan-
hill and Cartnavel, in this parish, there is found above the gas-
coal a valuable seam of black-band ironstone from 10 to 15 inches
thick ; and farther down are several seams of clay-band, ranging
in thickness from 5 to 12 inches, and yielding from 30 to 33 per
cent, of iron.
ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 949
A still more important part of the mineral treasures of Clydes-
dale than its ironstone, is its coal, from which, indeed, the ironstone
principally derives its value. The great coal-field which crosses
Scotland from Fife to Ayrshire passes through this county, hav-
ing a stretch of nearly thirty miles from Strathingo, near Glasgow,
in the north, to the parish of Douglas in the south. Of this va-
luable mineral there is a considerable variety of kinds. These and
their geological position are so distinctly and accurately described
by Naismith in his Agricultural Survey of Clydesdale, that I
need make no apology for borrowing his account of them : " A
number of these strata or seams lie above that which is generally
called, around the city of Glasgow, the upper coal, because it is
the first that is found worth digging to any extent. This stratum
is composed entirely of what is called rough coal in Scotland, ex-
cept a small part near the middle of it, of the kind called splint.
2. About sixteen or seventeen fathoms under that lies the ell coal,
so called because it was first found of this thickness, but it is fre-
quently from four to six feet thick. It is composed of two kinds,
called yolk and cherry coal, with sometimes a parting of splint and
sometimes not. This is a fine caking coal, or what is called in
England a close-burning coal, and is much esteemed for the
blacksmith's forge. 3. At from ten to seventeen fathoms below the
last lies the seam called the main coal, from its possessing all the
good qualities found in any of the other strata. It contains rough
coal, splint and parrot, or jet coal, and is preferred to all the others
as the most profitable. Its thickness is from 3^ to 9 feet. Some-
times a thin bed of stone is found about the middle of the seam,
and the thickness is 10 feet. 4. About 13 or 14 fathoms lower
lies the humph coal. It consists of yolk and rough coal, with a
thin parting of splint. In some places it is without the splint and
unworkable, being much interlaced with these lamina of stone and
a kind of petrified black clay called liaise, black bituminous shale,
and slate clay. 5. Below the" humph coal lies the hard coal,
sometimes at fourteen fathoms distant. It consists solely of splint
and parrot coal, and is found to be the best in the county for the
smelting of iron. It is also very good for family use. 6. At a
fathom and a half lower is found the soft coal, from 30 inches to
6 feet thick. It is composed of the rough, yolk, and cherry coals,
cakes much in burning, and is esteemed a good coal for the black-
smith's forge. 7. About 13 or 14 fathoms below this lies a coal,
called about Glasgow the sour-milk coal. As it burns slowly, and
LANARK. 3 P
950 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
affords but a weak heat, it is what the miners call a lean coal, and
has therefore been but little wrought. There are a number of
these seams under the sour-milk coal, all of a lean quality, and
generally much interlaced with laminae of stone, blaise, or shiver.
Under the last mentioned have been found several strata of ex-
cellent lime ; and more of these thin seams of coal again have been
discovered under the lime, but all of them which have yet been
tried are of a lean quality. The lime found near the surface on
the elevated ground is supposed to be a continuation of some one
or other of the last mentioned strata, found under the coal, which,
in the course of their natural rise, have come within reach, in the
places where the superincumbent strata of coal and all its accom-
panying fossils did not exist ; as lime worth the working has iie-
ver yet been discovered above these coal strata, npr in any place,
till after the valuable seams of coal have skirted out at the sur-
face ; and any coal which has been found under the surface lime
is of the same lean quality with that which lies under the deep
buried strata of lime. The above is the number and order of the
coal strata everywhere along the Clyde, where they are entire.
However, this is not always the case. All the mineral strata lie
inclining towards the river on both sides, generally somewhat
obliquely, and with various degrees and directions of declivity,
rising as they recede from it, till they skirt, or, as it is expressed
by miners, crop out one after another ; so that the first coal which
is found in some places is perhaps the third or fourth in the above-
mentioned order. These are distinguished by the name of the
Clyde strata, or seams of coal, and not only lie along the sides of
that river, through all the plain country, but branch out less or
more along the principal streams, on some of them to a great ex-
tent. Besides these, there are other seams of coal in the county,
of a somewhat different nature. In the parish of Shotts, a fine
yolk coal is wrought, resembling the coal found upon the sides of
the Forth, and supposed to be a continuation of one of the same
strata. Upon the sides of the Douglas River are extensive col-
lieries, which supply some of the southern provinces where that
fuel is wanting. The coal here is also similar to that on the
Forth. On the south-west boundary of the county is coal of
the same quality with that wrought on the coast of Ayrshire. It
crops out at the surface about the middle of Avondale parish.
There are stillsome other variations in the coal strata which merit
attention. Near the northern boundary of the county a species is found
ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 951
distinguished by the name of the Hind-coal, from its burning with in-
tense heat without flame. This must no doubt have been deprived
of the fixed air by means of subterraneous fire. It is used for the
same purposes as coke, and even preferred to coke artificially
made, its effluvia being still less offensive. The blind-coal is al-
ways found under a covering of horizontal whin ; and where the
same seam is traced till it comes under the freestone rock, its qua-
lities are entirely changed, and it becomes in every respect the
common pit-coal. Another species of coal, the qualities of which
are directly opposite to those of the last, is found in different parts
of the county. It is here called the candle (cannel) or light coal,
and is said to be the parrot or jet coal of the third seam in the
above enumeration, divested of the other kinds which accompany
it when the seam is complete. But when this is found alone it
seems to be still more exquisitely inflammable : it takes flame the
moment it is brought in contact with the fire, and a small fragment
of it may be carried about in the hand like a flambeau, and will
continue for a long time to give a vivid light." At Auchinheath,
and other two places in the parish of Lesmahago, the finest coal
of this kind to be met with in Scotland, is wrought. It supplies
Glasgow and other places with gas, for which it is peculiarly
adapted ; and is in such demand, that it is sold at the coal-hill for
8s. a ton.
To enable our readers to form some estimate of the importance
of the coal-fields of Clydesdale, we may mention, that it has been
computed to contain 55,000 acres, or about 110 square miles.
Taking the medium thickness of the whole field at 5 yards, there
will be in each mile 15,448,000 cubic yards, and in the whole
field 1,703,680,000 cubic yards of coal.
Through the whole range of the coal district limestone abounds.
It is generally found beneath the seventh seam of coal, about 73
fathoms below the upper coal. It is found near the surface only in
places which are somewhat elevated, after the freestone coal and ac-
companying strata have skirted out, and are no longer to be found.
It is most frequent on the north and west of the Clyde, particularly
in the parishes of Kilbride, Avondale, Glassford, Stonehaven,
Lesmahago, Douglas, and the higher parts of Hamilton and Blan-
tyre. On the east, it is found in Carluke and Carnwath. The
strata of limestone are, in general, nearly horizontal.
In 1829, and for some successive years, the gas issuing from
the fissures of the limestone rock, on the property of Holms, in
952 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
Cadder, rose through the earth, and even the water on its sur-
face. It was easily kindled with a match, and burned brilliantly
on the surface of the water.
Freestone, another concomitant of coal, is found in every part
of the coal district. It is of very varied appearance and quali-
ties ; and it is a fact not unworthy the attention of the geologist,
that, on the south and west of the Clyde, white freestone predomi-
nates ; while, on the east of the river, it is more generally red, parti-
cularly towards the surface. To this general fact, however, there are
some exceptions. Mr Patrick informs us that a stratum of the new,
or upper red sandstone, stretches along the whole of the western
parts of Bothvvell, and penetrates into several of the neighbouring
parishes, covering a great part of the south-west edge of the coal
basin of the Clyde. This freestone is in general compact, and
well suited for building ; and its range is pretty distinctly marked
out to the eye of the traveller, by the general colour of the houses
and other buildings. JWhere both red and white freestone occur,
the former is near the surface, and the latter at a considerable
depth beneath some of the seams of coal. In Dalserf, Lesmaha-
go, and Douglas parishes, freestone of a beautiful white colour
abounds ; and at Nethan foot, in Lesmahago, there is a quarry of
freestone of a white ground, and so beautifully veined and clouded
as to resemble marble. A yellow freestone, which Mr Patrick
thinks of the same sort as what is found in Dumbartonshire above
the old red sandstone, occurs in Wiston, on Kennox water in
Douglas, and near Monk's head, on the confines of Douglas and
Lesmahago. In Dalziel parish, is found a very hard rough-grain-
ed freestone, abounding with unequal grains of quartz, unequalled
for resisting the action of both weather and fire. Of this stone
the bridge near Hamilton was built. Tinto-hill, rising between
the parishes of Carmichael, Covington, Symington, and Wiston,
presents rocks of old red sandstone conglomerate ; but the predo-
minant rocks are compact felspar, and felspar porphyries, with
subordinate masses of greenstone. In the other parishes, on the
eastern verge of the county, greywacke is the predominating rock.
Organic Remains. — The organic remains of Clydesdale, as might
be expected from the account given of its minerals, are numerous
and interesting. Shells of various kinds, corals, and fossil trees, are
found among the strata of limestone. One fossil tree, discovered
eight or nine years since, in the lime quarries of Wiston, was sent
to Edinburgh, and was found to be of a species unknown before.
ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 953
Near Calderside, in Blantyre, part of a tree completely petrified
rises out of the bed of the river. From the stem, only part of
Avhich remains in an upright growing position, proceed two root
shoots, each from 13 to 14 inches in diameter. It appears to be
composed of a close-grained whitish sandstone, with small specks
of mica, and dotted with spots of oxide of iron, as minute as needle
points. On the banks of the Kelvin, in Govan parish, nearly
thirty fossil trees were, several years ago, discovered standing close
to one another, and in their natural position. Not more than two
feet of the trunks, however, remained attached to the roots. They
appear to belong to the dicotyledonous class. To the geologist,
however, the most interesting organic phenomena are the remains
of plants, shells, and animals, some of them of genera now extinct,
or unknown, which are found in the strata of coal, freestone, and
lime.* In these, the strata in the parish of Carluke appear to be
particularly rich. In Bothwell, Hamilton, Blantyre, Lesmahago,
Douglas, and indeed through the whole extent of the coal district,
interesting organic remains occur; and few counties could present
a more inviting or instructive field to the geologist.
Altitudes. — The eminences in Lanarkshire, which are entitled
to the appellation of mountains, are in the hilly ranges of the Up-
per Ward, On the borders of Ayrshire is Cairntable, 1650 feet
above the level of the sea; near the Dumfries borders, are the
Lowthers, the loftiest summit of which is 3110 feet; Tinto, 2350
feet above the sea level, and 1740 feet above the Clyde; Culter
Fell, 2330 feet; Dunsyre hill, 1235 feet; Dolphinton hill, 1550
feet. In the Middle and Lower Wards, the ground is in general
of so moderate elevation, that, from a spot not above 150 feet
above the level of the sea, all the heights of the Isle of Arran, fifty
miles distant, may be seen in a clear day.
Meteorology. — In the Lower Ward, situate on an isthmus little
more than thirty miles broad, between the Forth and the Clyde,
which opens gradually to the German and Atlantic Oceans, the
temperate influence of the sea breeze is felt more or less through-
out the year. The west and south-west winds prevail for about
two- thirds of the year ; and, sweeping over the vast Atlantic, un-
broken by any intervening land, they come, surcharged indeed with
vapour, yet in all the mildness of the ocean temperature. The
* In a bed of stratified clay in Govan, at least 80 feet above the level of the sea,
150 species of shells have been found, nearly a tenth part of which is not known to
•ejcist in the present seas. Of these Mr Smith of Jordanhill has formed a catalogue.
954 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
easterly winds, which, blowing over a wide continent and a narrow
sea, are colder, have their force broken by the high lands on the
eastern side of the county, so that the cold heavy fogs, so preva-
lent on the east coast, seldom pay their unkindly visits here. In-
tense frosts and deep snows are neither frequent, nor, when they
occur, lasting. The summer's temperature, however, is lowered
by the vapours which the prevailing winds bring from the Atlan-
tic; and which, intercepted by the heights of the counties of Ren-
frew and Dumbarton, fall in frequent and heavy showers^ In the
flatter country farther up the Clyde, where the current of air passes
with scarce the interruption of a single height between the ocean
and the river, rains are less frequent. And in the trough of Clyde,
the dense column of air buoying up the clouds, sometimes pre-
vents the lands in the hollow from receiving the rains with which
the ridges on either side are drenched. While the west and south-
west winds prevail, the rain falls in repeated showers between short
intervals of fair weather. Next to these, the most prevalent wind
is the north-east, which is generally accompanied with fair but cold
weather. The south wind generally brings heavy rain, but of
short continuance. The heaviest and most lasting rain, though
not the most frequent, is from the south-east. It was probably from
the weather which prevailed while Agricola was erecting ramparts
on the northern confines of this county, .that Tacitus drew his de-
scription of the Caledonian weather, which is still applicable to
the climate of the Lower Ward : " Coelum crebris imbribus ae
nebulis foedum ; asperitas frigorum abest." In the Upper Ward,
where the distance from either sea is great, the influence of the
sea-breeze is less felt. Frequent and lofty eminences intercept the
current of air from sea to sea. The weather, thought not exempt
from insular variableness, is steadier, the winter's cold more severe,
and the summer's heat more intense. Rains are more frequent
than in the Middle Ward. In the upper extremity of the county
especially, where lofty summits intercept the clouds, heavy rains
often fall, — mists cover the hills, — the winters are tedious and se-
vere,— and the heats of summer are often interrupted by chilling
blasts. In the Accounts of Crawford and Biggar, the reader will
find meteorological tables, from which he may form a tolerably ac-
curate idea of the climate of the Upper Ward. For the meteo-
rology of the Middle Ward, we refer him to a similar table in the
Account of Dalserf ; and of the meteorology of the Lower Ward,
3
ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 955
he will find accurate statements in the Accounts of Bothwell and
Glasgow. ,
Agriculture^ fyc. — Although so large a proportion of this county is
occupied by mountain and moor, and, although, even in much of the
arable country, the humidity and coldness of the climate are evils
with which the agriculturist finds it difficult to contend ; yet there is
perhaps no county in Scotland in which agricultural enterprise is
active, and the march of improvement is more steadily and rapidly
progressive. The energy of its commercial industry is com-
municated by sympathy and example to its rural labour ; and the
influence of its commercial wealth is everywhere visible in the scale
of its farming operations, and the spirit with which they are con-
ducted. To say that all the improvements in agriculture are
readily adopted in this county, is not to give its agriculturists their
due meed of praise, unless we take into account the obstacles by
which they might be discouraged, and the perseverance and often
the ingenuity by which they are surmounted. Not only is the
surface of the land improved, and its fertility increased, but even
its climate is greatly meliorated by the exertions of an enlightened
industry. This industry is at once stimulated and assisted by the
means and facilities which the commercial resources of the county
afford, and the streams of wealth which are ever issuing from
Glasgow as a grand reservoir, spread richness and beauty over not
only the adjacent portions of the county, but over its remotest ex-
tremities.
To these beneficial effects, the ambition of the opulent citizens
of Glasgow to become landed proprietors, essentially contributes.
Much capital is thus invested in the purchase and the improve-
ment of land, wherever it can be obtained. Splendid mansions,
with the requisite accompaniments of lawns, pleasure-grounds, and
plantations, now delight the eye in many places where it was former-
ly offended with the squalid slovenliness of indolence or poverty.
The unsparing application of capital spreads an air of comfort and
elegance over all the vicinity of these abodes of wealth ; and spots
which, not many years ago, lay in a state of nature, unseemly
and unproductive, now wear the smiling aspect of plenty and
beauty.
A considerable proportion of the county, indeed, is in the pos-
session of ancient families, whose large estates, held by the tenure
of entail, cannot enjoy, except in the vicinity of the family resi-
dence, the same advantages as smaller properties of more recent
956 GEfNERAL OBSERVATIONS
acquisition, occupied by persons whose active habits engage them
eagerly in the business of improvement. Yet, even over these large
estates the spirit of improvement has passed. Tenants readily
adopt, and landlords in general liberally encourage, any change of
system which promises to be beneficial ; and the marked improve-
ment of both stock and tillage does ample credit to the enterprise
and intelligence of store-farmers and agriculturists, and to the en-
lightened liberality with which these are fostered.
In some instances, the proprietors themselves, and in particular
the greatest proprietor in the Upper Ward, take the lead as im-
provers of our rural economy. The influence of their example
is beyond calculation beneficial, spreading even to the remotest
of their tenantry. In their more immediate vicinity, this influ-
ence is of course more perceptible, seconded as it necessarily is
by the more particular attention which they are led to pay to
places under their daily observation. On the lands in their own
occupation, the effects of this improving spirit are more especially
apparent. Year after year these lands rise, under their judicious
management, in increasing beauty and fertility ; and the traveller
who has an opportunity of marking these progressive changes, and
of comparing their present state with what it was within his own
not very remote recollection, is impressed with a deep and delight-
ed conviction of the benefit conferred upon a land by such resi-
dent proprietors. These are the men who are best entitled to the
praise of substantial patriotism — being essential benefactors to
their country. And while they see around them a pleased and hap-
py peasantry constantly maintained in their employment ; a neigh-
bouring population thriving by the circulation thus given to a part
of their wealth ; while the effects of their improving operations open
progressively to their view ; while new schemes of improvement are
constantly occupying their minds, and they anticipate, in enlight-
ened speculation, the results of these schemes in distant futurity —
their lot is surely as enviable as their example is laudable ; and
they open up to themselves sources of rational and salutary
gratification, which would be poorly exchanged for all that courts
or cities could offer.
Ancient Families. — The most considerable of the ancient families
which still hold possessions in Lanarkshire, are the Ducal family of
Hamilton, of which the Belhaven and Dalziel families are branches.
The Douglas, longthe first family in rank and power, next to the royal
family in Scotland, still lineally represented, though latterly through
ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 957
the female line, by Lord Douglas of Douglas. Of this family the
Douglases of Rosehall, and Douglas Park, in this county, are bran-
ches. The Lockharts of Lee, of which the present representative
is Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart, Bart, with their branches, the
Lockharts of Castlehill and Milton Lockhart, Cleghorn, &c.
The late noble family of Hyndford, now represented by Sir Wind-
ham Carmichael Anstruther; of this family the Carmichaels of
East End form a branch. The Baillies of Lamington, represented
by Mr Cochrane Baillie, son of Sir Thomas Cochrane of Mur-
dieston; the Rosses of Bonnington, represented by Sir Charles Ross ;
the Colebrookes of Crawford by Sir Edward Colebrooke. The
Stewarts of Coltness became extinct in the person of the late Ge-
neral Sir James Stewart. The Stewarts of Allan ton are now re-
presented by Sir Henry James, son of the late Sir Reginald Mac-
donald Seton Stewart of Allanton, &c. and maternal grandson of
Sir Henry Stewart of Allanton. The Veres of Stonebyres, and of
Blackwood, &c.
Family Mansions. — Among the most remarkable family man-
sions are, Hamilton Palace, the truly princely residence of the Duke
of Hamilton; Douglas and Both well Castles, the seats of Lord Dou-
glas ; the former having been commenced in the time of the Duke
of Douglas, after a magnificent plan by the celebrated Adam, but
still unfinished ; the latter, a plain, but large and commodious build-
ing, forming a remarkable contrast to the ruin of the old castle,
one of the noblest relics of baronial grandeur to be seen in the
kingdom ; Carstairs House, the splendid residence of Henry
Monteath, Esq. ; Bonnington House, the seat of Sir Charles Ross;
and Corehouse, the romantic mansion of Lord Corehouse, on the
opposite sides of the Clyde, near the falls of Bonnington and Cora
Linn ; Stonebyres House, a fine old mansion, on the west of the
Clyde, near the Stonebyres Fall ; Lee House, the magnificent
mansion of Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart ; Mauldslie Castle,
an elegant turreted structure on the Clyde, built, after a design
of Adam, by Thomas Earl of Hyndford, now the property of his
grandnephew, Mr Nesbit of Carfin ; Milton- Lockhart, a splendid
specimen of the manorial style, after the plan of Burn, set down
by the present proprietor in a most beautiful situation on the Clyde;
Dalziel House, the seat of Hamilton of Dalziel ; Cambusnethan
Priory, a splendid Gothic structure, after a design of Mr Gillespie
Graham, in one of the finest situations on the Clyde, the seat of
Mr Lockhart of Castlehill ; Wishaw House, the seat of Lord
958 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
Belhaven ; Coltness House, now in the possession of Mr Houlds-
worth; Allanton House, the beautiful seat of Sir James Henry
Macdonald Stewart; Woodhall, the seat of Mr Campbell of Isla ;
Cleland House, the seat of Mr North Dalrymple ; Douglas Park,
belonging to Mrs Douglas ; Rosehall, the property of General
Pye Douglas ; Airdrie House, the seat of Sir William Alexan-
der ; Newton House, belonging to Sir James Montgomery of
Stanhope ; Monkland House, the seat of the Hon. William El-
phinstone ; Castlemilk, the property of James Stirling Stirling,
Esq. Many elegant houses besides these are to be met with
in different parts of the county. The Lower Ward especially is
thickly studded with seats and villas; but a mere enumeration of
the principal mansions is all that our- present limits admit. More
detailed descriptions of them will generally be found in the ac-
counts of the parishes in which they are situate.
In commercial importance Lanarkshire ranks far above any other
county in Scotland. Glasgow, which rivals Manchester in its manu-
factures, may already be termed the Scotch Liverpool for trade. The
rapid advances which Glasgow has made within the last half century ;
the vast improvements which have been effected in the navigation of
the Clyde, and the magnificent plans for its further improvement,
which have been recently undertaken, — the striking fact, that vessels
of more than 600 tons burthen, drawing 1 6 or 17 feet of water, can now
pass, where the river, only seventy years ago, was not two feet
deep,— and that the river and harbour dues, which in 1771 were
only L.I 021, now exceed L.40,000, — warrant the most sanguine
anticipations of the future increase of its trade. In no city on the
face of the globe, indeed, is enterprise more active, or in general
more successful, and, in none, perhaps, have a greater number of
fortunes been amassed, — in many instances by individuals of the
lowest origin, — than in Glasgow.
The original source of its prosperityy and still the staple of its
trade, is its manufacture of cotton, which is carried on in all its va-
rious branches, and to a degree "of perfection which is nowhere
surpassed. The finer fabrics, except of complex patterns, are
wrought chiefly in power-looms, the number of which in Glasgow,
in 1835, was 15,127. The number of hand-looms in the city and
suburbs was, in the same year, 18,537, and employed by Glasgow
manufacturers in other towns, 13,468. Of the latter, however, a
considerable number may be supposed to be in other counties. In
Glasgow and its vicinity, there are now many establishments on a
ON THE COUNTY OF LANAUK. 959
great scale, for the spinning of cotton thread ; but the most ex-
tensive establishment of this kind in the county is that of New
Lanark, founded by Mr David Dale, for many years under the su-
perintendence of the noted Robert Owen, and now belonging to
the firm of Walker and Company. Upwards of 1100 persons are
employed in the establishment ; and the neatness of the buildings
for both the mills and dwellings, — the beauty of their situation amid
the most interesting scenery of the Clyde, — the cleanliness and or-
der with which they are kept, — and the judicious regulations for the
comfort and moral decency of the operatives, — render it one of the
most interesting factories that are anywhere to be found. The Blan-
tyre Spinning Mills, originally founded likewise by Mr Dale, em-
ploys 458 persons, and are also under very judicious management.
They are the property of Messrs Henry Monteath and Company.
Means of Communication. — In a county of such commercial im-
portance, the means of communication are of course particularly at-
tended to. Its roads in every direction are of the best description.
v The great English road by Carlisle, in particular, planned by Mr
Telford, is one of the best in the kingdom. A new line of road from
Edinburgh to Ayr, and traversing this county from Cambusnethan to
Strathavon, was opened some years ago. The old road by Carnwath
and Douglas is likewise well kept. New lines of road have, within the
last few years, been opened to Dumfries from Glasgow by Lanark and
Chesterhall, and from Edinburgh by Biggar and Chesterhall ; and
in general, throughout the county, there is abundant facility of com-
munication by excellent roads. New bridges, too, have been re-
cently throwii across the Clyde, of which, besides the GLASGOW
BRIDGE, we may particularly mention two handsome bridges at
Cessford and Milton- Lockhart, — the latter built at the sole ex-
pense of the spirited proprietor of that estate. It has been for
some time in contemplation to have a railway between Glasgow
and Carlisle. Eminent engineers have been employed to survey
the intervening country, with the view of determining the most
eligible line ; but so many circumstances are to be taken into ac-
count that it is difficult to come to a decision.
960
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
TABLE I. — Shewing Ecclesiastical State, &c.
Parishes.
Population in
1831.
Ecclesiastical State.
Schools in Par
Parochial Schoolmasters'
-2d
to
» B. -o
S W>3
£!w
Individuals
Do. Do.
Families of
Dissenters
or Secoders
Individuals
Do. Do.
Amount of
Parochial Mi-
nisters' stipend
Salary.
Fees.
Lanark,
Lesmahago,
Libberton and
Quothquhan,
Dolphinton,
Dunsyre,
Carnwath,
Wiston and
Robert on,
Glasgow,
N. Mohkland,
Hamilton,
Glassford,
Avondale,
Blantyre,
Crawford,
Culter,
Biggar,
Rutherglen,
Cadder,
Cambuslang,
Dalziel,
Stonehouse,
Douglas,
Crawfordjohn
Carmichael,
Pettinain,
Carstairs,
Carluke,
Carmunnock,
Cambusnethn.
Bertram Shotts
O. Monkland,
Govan,
Dalserf.
Bothwell,
Wandell and
Lammington,
Walston,
Symington,
Covington &
Thankerton,
East Kilbride,
7672
6409
773
275
335
3505
940
202426
9867
9513
1730
5761
3000
1850
497
1915
5503
3048
2697
1180
2359
2549
991
-956
461
981
3288
692
3824
3220
9580
4967
2680
5545
382
429
489
521
3789
19 chalders.
L. 277 ?
277 i
15 chalders
L. 150.
L- 150.
16 chalders.
L.I 91 and
I chalder.
17 chalders.
1 6 chalders. >
1 6 chalders. \
16 chalders.
19 chalders.
L.I 16 and 96
bolls, &c.
15 chalders.
L. 208 and 12
bolls, &c.
17 chalders.
18 chalders.
L. 211, &c.
121 bolls, &c.
L. 150.
1 7 chalders.
16 chalders.
15 chalders.
L. 194, &c.
L. 150.
15 chalders.
16 chalders.
L. 150.
18 chalders.
16 ch. &1..25.
L. 263.
20 chalders.
17 chalders.
18 chalders.
See text.
L. 158.
L. 150.
12
2
8
3
5
20
4
13
9
a
2
"s
7
4
8
5
5
2
•2
I
-2
7
1
9
6
4
40
i'i
2
i
1
a
L.34 0 0
30 0 0
26 0 0
28 0 0
34 0 0
t 25 13 0
i 30 0 0
30"*0 0
34 0 0
16 13 4
34 0 0
26 0 0
34 0 0
34 0 0
34 0 0
16 13 0
(25 13 0
I 4 chalder
34 0 0
34 0 0
28 0 0
34 0 0
32 10 0
32 0 0
32 0 0
34 0 0
34 0 0
34 0 0
34 0 0
34 0 0
31 0 0
34 00
34 0 0
34 0 0
34 0 0
30 0 0
34 0 0
28 0 0
34 0 0
L.45 0 0
20 0 0
15 0 0
3?" 0 0
30* "o 0
50 0 0
32 0 0
25 0 0
20 0 0
15 0 0
20 0 0
(25*0 0
}38 0 0
2o"'o 0
30 0 0
io"*o o
17 0 0
40 0 0
20 0 0
28 0 0
24 0 0
10 0 0
15 0 0
16 0 0
...
...
...
200
170
...
...
...
...
766
...
183
1106
212
76
236
...
952
130
23
168
1350
817
12
•
360
•2016
717
120
689
513
163
1*22
419
457
6875
2450
3811
42
56
340
293
40
18
4
730
3457
1971
550
2397
Almost
313
all.
...
173
...
1962
...
1644
18 chalders.
ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK.
9GI
of Parishes in the County of Lanark.
F/molums.
Total.
Savings' Banks.
Annual amount of Contributions to the Poor.
3
i
I-&1
i*8
< *\g
Itj
From as-
sessment or
voluntary
contrib. by
Heritors.
From
Jhurch col-
lections.
^rom Alms,
Legacies,
&c.
Total.
.. .
1
L200
L.342
L230 0 0
..37 0 0
See text.
See text.
L.79 0 0
1
60
20
365 0 0
47 0 0
L.98 0 0
L.500 0 0
50 0 0
..
...
...
45 0 0
11 0 0
200
58 0 0
41 0 0
..
...
•...
182 14 0
100 0 0
467 "6 0
28*"6 0
12 13 0
7"*9 0
25 0 0
30 0 0
119 11 0
71 0 0
••
...
...
60" 0 0
•>
-
...
84 0 0
..
...
...
...
90 0 0
...
800 0 0
48 0 0
59 0 0
••
:::
...
170 9 7
15 6 0
14 0 0
32" *0 0
510 "6 0*
46 0 0
...
...
...
...
...
37 15 0
49 0 0
..
...
...
. r.
...
...
,85 0 0
54 0 0
..
...
...
...
32 0 0
440
...
...
•
...
...
153 11 0
12 18 0
27" o o
970
175 18 0
279 19 0
...
23 1 0
...
200 0 0
54" 'o o
58 0 0
42" 0 0
49 0 0
74* "0 0
54 0 0
62 Q 0
«.
*290
...
,50 0 0
168 0 0
38 "6 0
222 "6 0
16 10 0
13 0 0
45 0 0
25"*0 0
800
26 0 0
14 0 0
20 0 0
45 0 0
15 0 0
250
i"io o
700
25 0 0
n"o o
54 "6 0
35 i'6 0
243 0 0
45 0 0
250 0 0
212 0 0
...
••
...
...
2333 "6 0
210 0 0
300 0 0
40"*0 0
42 0 0
...
...
58 0
...
...
600
...
...
40 0
49 0
••
...
...
20 10 0
600
...
...
44 0
••
...
...
142 0 0
880
20 0 0
16 8 0
18 0 0
30 11 0
180 0 0
962
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS, &C.
TABLE II. — Shewing Extent, &c. of Parishes in the County of
Lanark.
Parishes.
Acres in
parish.
Acres cul-
tivated or
occasion,
in tillage.
Acres un
cultivated
Uo. sup
pos. cap.
of cultiv.
with prof.
Acres
under
wood.
Lanark,
8936
6500
2436
__
600
Scotch acres stated.
Lesmahago,
34000
21000
13000
1000
1650
Do.
Libbei ton and
Quothquhan,
8703
5403
3300
300
500
Dolphinton,
3200
2000
1200
250
300
Scotch acres stated.
Dunsyre, .
13030
3000
10030
2000
30
Carnwath,
25193
8397
16796
4400
400
Scotch acres stated.
Wiston & Ro-
berton,
10871
3783
7088
1500
200
Glasgow,
—
__
__
N. Monkland,
—
__
__
^_
__
Hamilton,
12240
8000
4240
__
2000
Glassford,
5598
440
Scotch acres stated.
Avondale,
32000
16000
16000
__
_
Blantyre,
4170
3670
500
__
__
Crawford,
75000
1200
73800
___
150
Culter, .
11547
3990
7557
_
435
Biggar, .
5852
4572
1280
_—
750
Scotch acres stated.
Rutherglen,
All.
_
__
Cadder, .
8700
_
460
Cambuslang,
4325
4125
200
__
Dalziel, .
2233
1873
410
.
410
Scotch acres stated.
Stonehouse,
6000
6000
Do.
Douglas,
28004
3816
24188
1492
Do.
Crawfordjohn,
21123
3200
17923
__
50
Do.
Carmichael,
9252
4702
4550
__
735
Do.
Pettinain,
3220
2320
900
__
160
Carstairs, .
11840
9936
1904
500
400
Carluke, .
15360
14053
1307
__
600
Carmunnock,
2810
2400
410
_
250
Scotch acres stated.
Cambusnethan
26000
10000
16000
10000
e5oo
BertramShotts
32000
17000
15000
500*
O. Monkland,
__
__
•JU
.
1200
Go van,
___
All.
__
Dalserf, .
5725
All.
__
__
Bothwell,
13600
All.
__
___
__
Wandell and
Lammington,
6099
2280
3819
—
—
Walston, .
2901
1121
__
38
Symington,
2754
1953
801
__
113
Scotch acres stated.
Covington &
Thankerton,
—
2000
3500
600
80
East Kilbride,
—
—
—
—
Bertram Shafts. — Acres cultivated and uncultivated here conjectural. See text,
p. 629.
N. B — The acres uncultivated include those capable of cultivation, and those
under wood.
PRINTED BY JOHN STARK,
OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE, EDINBURGH.
INDEX.
Agriculture and rural economy, 20, 37,
44, 58, 71, 85, 96, 245, 277, 298,
507, 321, 332, 348, 364, 387, 400,
433, 455, 473, 486, 506, 527, 541,
556, 587, 603, 622, 629, 656, 695,
'741, 794, 824, 861, 871, 875, 894
Agriculture and rural economy, general,
of the county, 955
Aiton, William, the botanist, birth-place
of, 787
Airdrie, town of, 246 — mineral springs
of, 243
Allan Ramsay, birth-place of, 330
Allanton castle, 620
Anderson, Rev. Patrick, ejection and
persecution of, 858
Andersonian University, the, 179
Anglesea, Marquis of, 845
Antiquities, 362, 383, 406, 429, 451,
471, 484, 503, 525, 553, 580, G01,
651, 690, 693, 733, 787, 817, 854,
869, 890
Auchter water, the, 609
Avon water, the, 254, 302, 470
Avondale, parish of, 301
Baillie, Dr Mathew, 628— bequest of,
617
Baillie, Joanna, birth-place of, 787
Baillie of Lammingtoune, family of, 813
Barncluith, the gardens of, 271
Basket mines, the, 317
Belhaven, family of, 616
Beltane fires on Dechmont, 430
Bertram Shotts, parish of, 624
Biggar, parish of, 354— battle of, 358—
town of, 366 — water, 355
Binning, Rev. Hugh, 682
Birnie, Rev. William, 15, 452
Blackmount, 847
Blantyre, parish of, 314— mills, 322—
priory, ruins of, 320— village of, 323,
325
Boat, remains of an ancient, dug up,
601
Boghall, castle of, 363
Boghouse, castle of, 502
Bonnington house, 18
Borland caves, 850
Bothland burn, 401
Botany, 9, 54, 264, 303, 319, 342, 356,
403, 424, 448, 521, 551, 576, 612,
628, 673, 728, 776, 851
Bothwell, parish of, 765 — bridge, 789
LANARK.
—battle of, 266, 779,— castle, 783,
787— ruins of old church of, 788
Bothwellhaugh, site of, 784
Bower of Wandell, ruins of, 818
Boyd, James, first Protestant Archbishop
of Glasgow, 405
Boyd, Principal, 679
Bridges, ancient, at Mouss hill, 24 — over
the Cadzow, 285 — over the Clyde at
Glasgow, 218
Broomhill house burnt by the English,
733
Brown, William, mortification by, 62
Buchanan, Claudius, birth-place of, 429
Building Societies at Larkhall, 760
Burnet, Bishop, 734
Burnet, Rev. Jolm, ejection of, 888
Burying-place, ancient, 651
Busby, village of, 599, 605
Gadder, parish of, 391
Cadzow burn, 255 — castle, ruins of,
255, 269— bridge, 285
Cairn-gryffe hill, 536
Cairntable hill, 479
Calder water, 315, 419, 445, 608, 642
Calderwood house, 879
Calico-printing, 149
Cambuslang, parish of, 416 — revivals
at, 425
Cambusnethan, parish of, 608 — house,
615— ruins of old church of, 614
Cameron, Mrs Jean, 889
Cameronian regiment, first formation of,
118,482
Camps, ancient, at Keir hill, &c. 57.
See Roman.
Canals, the Forth and Clyde, 202, 699
— the Glasgow and Johnstone, 699 —
the Monkland, 203, 604— the Pais-
ley and Ardrossan, 204 — the Union,
204
Gander water, the, 720
Carfin, collieries of, 951
Cargill, Donald, capture of, 874 — and
death of, 70
Carluke, parish of, 563
Carmichael, parish of, 517 — ministers
of, from 1569, 532
Carmunnock, parish of, 597 — village of,
605
Carnbroe iron works, 797
Carnwath, parish of, 76 — village of, 88
Cairstars, parish of, 547 — patronage of,
3Q
964
LANARKSHIRE.
561— castle, 106— house, 548— vil- '
of, 560
Cartlane Crags, scenery of, 4 — bridge, 24
Castlehill, remains of the, 13
Cathkin hill, 597
Caves at Borland, 850
Chancellor of Shieldhill, family of, 42
Chapelhill, 345 — iron works, 796
Chapel Rone, 733
Character and habits of the people, 34,
44, 97, 293, 347, 527, 540, 586, 603,
694, 739, 793, 822, 894
Church building society, institution and
operations of, 904
Churches and chapels connected with
the Establishment, 25, 38, 46, 61, 73,
89, 98, 246, 286, 299, 310, 325, 338,
350, 368, 394, 411 438, 464, 475,
490, 512, 531, 545, 561, 592, 605,
615, 631, 665, 711, 751, 799, 839,
863, 871, 875, 899
Cleland testimonial, the, 226
Climate. See Meteorology.
Clyde, the, 4, 196, 315, 419, 942— dues
on the at Glasgow, 198 — falls of, 5,
936 — improvements of, 196, 946 —
tides in, 239 — tributaries to, 913 —
union of with the Tweed, 942
Coal-fields and collieries, 257, 420, 480,
566, 446, 610, 625, 643, 672, 723,
774, 796, 881
Coal-fields, general observations on, 949
Coal, cannel, of Auchinheath, 951
Cochrane, Lord, early life of, 267
Cock-fighting, prevalence of, in Glasgow,
211
Coltness house, 617
Constantine, King of Cornwall, settles
at Govan, 675
Couthalley Castle, ruins of, 83
Covenant, renewal of the, at Auchen-
saugh, 479, 485
Covenanters, armed assemblage of, at
Rutherglen, 380— defeat of by Lam-
bert, 265— persecution of, 296
Covington and Thankerton, united pa-
rishes of 872
Covington, village of, 875
Craignethan castle, ruins of, 33
Craneloch, the, 66
Crawfordjohn, parish of, 497
Crawfurd, castle of, 331 — parish of, 327
—village of, 337
Crime, statistics of, 214, 292
Cromwell visits Glasgow, 116
Cullen, Dr, 628 — birth-place of, 267
Culter, parish of, 340
Customs, ancient, preserved in Ruther-
glen, 383
Dairy husbandry, 87, 409, 435, 486, 743,
861, 897
Dalserf, Ferry of, 748— parish of, 719
—village of, 726
Darngaber, ruins of the castle of, 270
David I., gift of Govan by, to St Mun-
go, 702
Dalzell burn, 445— family of, 449—
house, 453 — old church of, destroyed,
465— parish of, 442
Dechmont, ancient customs connected
with, 417
Defeat of Edward I. by Wallace at Big-
gar, 358
Deluge, traces of the, 7
Devonshaw hill, 806
Dissenters and Dissenting chapels, 26,
38, 47, 62, 90, 98, 247, 289, 351, 368,
394, 439, 475, 490, 512, 532, 561,
593, 605, 615, 633, 714, 739, 752,
755, 800, 864, 899
Dolphin ton, parish of, 49
Doomster hill, 690
Double dikes, encampment at, 471
Douglas ancient monuments in the
church of, 491— castle of, 481, 488
—family of, 483— parish of, 477—
village of, 488— water, 479
Druidical remains at Avonholm, 295
Drumclog, battle of, 304
Drumsargard, ruins of the Castle of, 429
Duneaton, river, 499
Dungarvel hill, 93
Dunsyre hill, 64 — parish of, 64
Earnook house, 274
East Kilbride, parish of, 877
Easton, remarkable spring at, 65
Ecclesiastical statistics. See Churches.
Education, statistics of, 26, 38, 47, 62,
74, 91, 99, 176, 247, 290, 300,
311, 325, 338, 351, 368, 395, 413,
440, 466, 475, 494, 513, 532, 545,
561, 594, 606, 622, 633, 667, 715,
757, 801, 842, 864, 871, 875, 899
Educational Society of Glasgow, 914
Eldrig hill, 878
Elsrickle, village of, 862
Episcopacy, reception of, in Glasgow,
117
Extensive fire at Hamilton, 266
Fairs and markets, 29, 91, 248, 293, 339,
371, 396, 415, 475, 496, 514, 596,
607, 634, 763
Fatlips castle, ruins of, 870
Fire, destructive, in Glasgow in 1677,
118— at Hamilton, 266
Fleming, family of, 359
Forfar, family of, 814
Forth and Clyde Canal, the, 202
Fossil remains found in the coal forma-
tions, 572
Foulis or Faulls, the celebrated printers,
133
INDEX.
965
Friendly societies, 27, 39, 47, 74, 99,
300, 312, 371, 396, 414, 466, 496,
514, 594, 760, 865, 900
Garion house, 617
Garnkirk railway, the, 205 — clay, 402
Gartshevrie, collieries of, 643 — church
of, 665
Gas, inflammable, issuing from the rock,
402
General Assembly of 1638, proceedings
of, 115
Geology and mineralogy, 6, 31, 52, 66,
77, 94, 104, 243, 256, 302, 316, 329,
342, 356, 378, 401, 420, 445, 470,
479, 499, 519, 537, 551, 566, 599,
610, 624, 642, 671, 723, 772, 811,
849, 881
Geology and mineralogy, general, of the
county, 945
Glasford, parish of, 294 — population of
297
Glasgow, city of, 101— banks, 220—
benevolent institutions, 185 — bills of
mortality, 122 — botanic garden, 175
— calico-printing, 149 — cathedral, 208
— chemical works in or connected
with, 165 — church accommodation,
188 — church building society, opera-
tions of, 904 — civic economy, 211 —
civil history, 105 — classification of po-
pulation, 125— climate, 103 — com-
merce, 130 — consumption of spirits,
195 — cotton manufactures, 140 — cri-
minal statistics, 214 — educational sta-
tistics, 178 — educational society, 914
— flour mills, 206 — gas lighting and
companies, 163 — grammar school, 177
— history, 105 — of the cotton manu-
facture in, 140 — increase of Roman
Catholics, 193, 902 — introduction of
printing, 131 — iron works and iron
trade, 158 — libraries, public, 183 —
management of the poor, 183— manu-
factures, 138 — market*, 206 — mecha-
nic's institute, 180 — newspapers pub-
lished, 182 — Normal seminary, 915 —
origin of the name, 234 — poor, ma-
nagement, 183 — population at various
periods, 129 — classification of, 125 —
Protestant association, formed, 901 —
religious destitution, 907 — religious
state in sixteenth century, 922 — riots
in during 1787, 120 — Roman Catho-
lics, 193, 902- schools, 178— See of,
instituted, 105 — sessional schools, 918
— stage coaches connected with, 205
— state of society in at various pe-
riods, 227 — theatre and theatricals,
210 — University, its establishment by
Nicolas V. 171 — its endowment, 171
— chartered by James VI., 172 — its
Constitution, 172
Gorbals, Barony of the, 698
Gordon of Earlston martyred, 295
Govan, iron-works of, 696 — parish of,
668— village of, 693
Grahame, Isabella,birth-place of, 26
Haddington, First Earl of, 649
Haggs Castle, ruins of, 691
Halbar, Castle of, 581
Hamilton, Anne, bequest by, 617
Hamilton, Gavin, the painter, 628
Hamilton, James, mortification by, 802
Hamilton bridge, 285— family of, 267
— palace of, 271 — parish of, 249 —
town of, 283
Harelaw cairn, 891
Holytown, village of, 799
Hospitals, Aikman's, 291 —the Dukes1,
291
Hot-blast, as applied to iron-smelting —
159, 660 — improvements of, 661
House in which Wallace was betrayed,
site of, 407
Howison of Hyndford, mortification by,
28
Hunter, Dr John, birth-place of, 890
Hunterian Museum, the, 175
Hutchison, George, bequest by, 715
Hyndford Bridge, 24
Inglis, Arthur, shot by Claverhouse, 621
Inns and ale-houses, and their demora-
lizing effects, 29, 40, 92, JOO, 300,
312, 326, 339, 371, 396, 415, 467,
496, 514, 534, 596, 634, 667, 763,
804, 844, 866, 872, 900
Ironworks, Carnbroe, 797 — Chapel-
hall, 796— Govan, 696— Monkland,
658— Shotts, 611, 630— Wilsontown,
78
Iron works, general sketch of, 947
Kilbride, East, parish of, 877 — village
of, 889, 898
Kittock water, 879
Kype water, 31, 302
Lammingtoune, castle of, 819 — village
of, 835
Lang loch, the, 3
Lanark, New, mills and village, 3, 22
Lanark, parish of, 1 — patronage of, 24
— ministers of from 1562, 25 — town
of, 23
Lanarkshire, agriculture of, 955 — culti-
vation of, 936 — general appearance
of, 935 — geology and mineralogy of,
945— hills in, 953— lakes in, 945—
manufactures of, 958 — meteorology
of, 953 — principal families connected
with, 956 — tubular view of ecclesias-
tical state of, 960 — of extent and cul-
tivation of parishes, 962
Larkhall, village of, 749
Laurie, tutor of Blackwood, 33
Leadhills, mines and village of, 333
966
LANARKSHIRE.
Learmont, Major, of Newholm, 56 —
commands the Covenanters cavalry at
Pentland, 56
Leechman, Principal, 404
Lee House, 18
Lee -penny, the, and superstition con-
nected with it, 16
Leigh ton, Archbishop, 618
Lesmahagow Abbey, burned by Edward
III. 33— parish of, 30
Libberton and Quothquhan, united pa-
rishes of, 41
Libraries and literature, 27, 39, 47, 63,
91, 99, 183, 247, 290, 312, 334, 369,
496, 514, 562, 594, 623, 633, 667,
759, 802, 865, 872, 900
Lickprivick, Castle of, 891
Lindsay of Dunrode, family of, 886
Lochs, various, in Calder, 400
Lockhart, family of, 579
Long Calderwood, village of, 890
Lowther hills, the, 54, 327
Macdonald of Kinlochmoidart, taken
prisoner on his way to join the Pre-
tender, 33
Machar muir, 741
M'Kail, Hugh, tutor at Coltness, 618
Macmillan, Rev. John, 734
Mains Castle, ruins of, 891
Maitland Club, establishment of the, 183
Manufactures — cambric, 282 — cotton,
22, 140,' 322, 488, 696, 747— lace,
282 — muslin, 437- — miscellaneous,
531, 747
Maple-tree, remarkable, at Culter, 343
March burn, the, 848
Marlage collieries, 723
Mauldslee Law, 564
Maxwell of Calderwood, family of, 886
Maxweltown, village of, 898
Medwyn river, the, 42, 60, 66, 846
Melville, Andrew, accused of attempting
to destroy Glasgow Cathedral, 675 —
ordained the first minister of Govan,
675
Meteorology and climate, 2, 31, 41, 49,
65, 103, 242, 251, 301, 314, 328,
341, 355, 377, 417, 470, 478, 499,
536, 549, 565, 598, 638, 669, 720,
767, 809, 848, 880
Meteorology and climate, general, of the
county, 953
Michael Scott, tradition regarding, 342
Milton bridge, 751
Mineralogy. See Geology and Coalfields.
Moats, ancient, near Biggar, 362
Monkland Canal, 203, 664
Monkland, New, parish of, 242 — popu-
lation of, 244
Monkland, Old, parish of 635— collieries
of 642 — furnaces in or connected
with 658, 948— ironstone of, wher6
wrought, 646 — quarries, 648
Monuments, ancient, in Douglas church,
491
Mouse river, the, 2, 549
Muir, Thomas, the political Reformer,
birth-place of, 405
Muirhouse, 621
Neilson's hot blast, applied to iron-
smelting, 159, 660
Normal Seminary at Glasgow, 915
Old Church of Lanark, ruins of the, 14
Olifard, the justiciary of Lothian, 55.
778
Orbiston, experimental social establish-
ment at, 780
Orchards, the Clydesdale, 278, 457,
589, 615, 744
Organic and fossil remains, 952
Osmond stone, the, 883
Owen's experimental institution, 780
Paisley and Ardrossan Canal, the, 204
Paupers and pauperism. See Poor
Pease tree, the, 10
Penances instituted by the early Refor-
mers, 110
Pettinain, parish of, 535 — patronage of,
545
Plague, ravages of the, in Glasgow, 107,
693, 706
Plantations and planting, 469, 478 551.
630, 729, 743, 824, 895
Polmadie, hospital of, 687
Poniel water, the, 31
Poor, management of the, 28, 39, 47,
63, 74, 91, 100, 183, 248, 291, 300,
312, 326, 339, 352, 369, 391, 414,
441, 467, 475, 496, 514, 533, 546,
562, 595, 607, 622, 633, 667, 718,
761, 803, 843, 865, 872, 876, 900
Popery, progress of, in Glasgow, 193, 902
Population returns, 19, 34, 43, 58, 70,
84, 95, 125, 129, 244, 275, 297, 305,
312, 331, 346, 364, 385, 406, 431,
454, 473, 485, 504, 526, 540, 555,
585, 602, 621, 629, 651, 693, 736,
789, 821, 860, 870, 875, 892
Population, character of the, 19, 44, 95,
306, 347, 454, 506, 527, 540, 586,
694, 739, 793, 822, 894
Produce. See Agriculture
Protestant Association of Glasgow, its
formation, 901
Powmillon water, 879
Quarries, Auchin heath, 18
Quarries, freestone, 280, 423, 530, 590,
648, 725, 796, 898
Quarries, limestone, 21, 316, 530, 569,
850, 881, 898
Quarries, slate, 333
Quaw, ruins of the Castle of, IS
INDEX.
96T
Railways — the Ayr, 700— the Garn-
kirk, 205, 411— the Greenock, 700
—the Kirkintilloch, 411— theWishaw
arid Coltness, 467, 798
Ramsay, Allan, birth-place of, 330
Raploch, remarkable yew at, 729
Ravages of the plague in Glasgow and
Gorbals, 107, 693, 706
Rebels, capture of a detachment of, in
1745, 821
Red-burn, the, 315
Reid of Nellfield, bequest by, 595
Religious Instruction Commission, Re-
port of, on Glasgow, 909
Ringsdale Castle, ruins of, 471
Rising of the Radicals in 1819, 601
Roman Catholics, increase of, in Glas-
gow, 193, 902
Roman bath at Carstairs, remains of, 554
Roman camps — on Boadsberry hill,
331 — at Castlemilk, 601 — at Corbie-
hall, 553— at Keirhill, 57— near La-
nark, 13— at Libberton, 43— Petti-
nain, 539— Whitehill, &c. 817
Roman remains — urns, tripods, coins,
&c. 13, 69, 363, 407
Roman roads, 303, 451, 554, 580, 601
— wall, the, 407
Rosebank, village of, 748
Roy, General, birth-place of, 12
Rutherglen bridge, 398— castle of, 374
old church of, 391— parish of, 373—
town of, 389
St Ninian's Hospital, 688— spring, 809
St Rollox, chemical works of, 163
Salmon fisheries on the Clyde, 696
Sarcophagus, ancient, found in Dalzell
church, 453
Savings banks, 28, 39, 221, 312, 533,
594, 633, 717, 865, 900
Scot, James, mortification by, 876
Scott, Michael, tradition regarding, 342
Schools, parochial. See Education
Schools, Sessional, in Glasgow, 918
School, Normal, 915
Shotts ironworks, 611, 630 — parish of,
624— village of, 631
Singular tenure of the Lockhart fami-
ly, 91
Smeton, Rev. Thomas, 677
Smith, William, shot for adherence to
the Covenant, 628
Smyllum Park, 18
Socialism, attempted establishment of,
780
Societies — church building, 904 — edu-
cational, 914
Societies, friendly and benefit. See
Friendly
Sommerville, Alexander, of Dolphinton,
62
South Calder river, 608
Springs, mineral, 243, 316, 329, 565,
772
Springs, petrifying, 329, 341
Stage coaches connected with Glasgow,
205
Steam-engine, history of, 138 — applica-
tion of to propelling vessels, 200—
factories of, 140
Steam-vessel, first iron launched, 240
Steam-vessels plying on the Clyde, 201
Stewart of Allanton, family of, 619
Stewart of Coltness, family of, 617
Stewart, Sir Mathew, of Minto, 110
Stone-coffin dug up at Hamilton farm,
383— at Shotts, 320
Stonehouse, parish of, 468 — village of,
474
Strathaven, town of, 308— castle of, 309
Sword of the Black Douglas 484
Symington, parish of, 867
Tabular view of ecclesiastical state of
the county, 960 — of the extent and
cultivation of the parishes, 962
Tairth, water of, 52
Templars, establishment of the, at Cba-
pelhill, 345
Thankerton Bridge, 875
Thorn, Mrs, bequest of library to pa-
rish of Govan, 717
Tile-draining, 897
Tile- works — at Wishaw and Coltness
611— at Springbank, 898
Tiller-burn, the, 772
Tinto-hill, 93, 518
Tod-holes, ruins of the castle of, 69
Torrance, ancient parish of, 887
Tothorl castle, remains of, 484
Tripod, ancient, dug up at Borland, 854
Tumulus, ancient, at Earnock, 270
Uddingstone, village of, 796
Union Canal, the, 204
lire's history of Rutherglen, 885
Urns, ancient, 320, 331, 472
Veitch, William, the Covenanter, 69
Waddell, Mrs, bequest of, 716
Wages, rates of, 22, 36, 44, 59, 71, 87,
97, 281, 333, 348, 388, 455, 507, 528,
541, 591, 604, 630, 698, 746, 829,
871, 875
Wallace, Sir William, 11, 12, 107— de-
feats Edward I. at Biggar, 358 —
descendants of, 812 — relics of, 16 —
scene of his betrayal, 407
Walston, parish of, 846— village of, 862
Wandell and Lammingtoune, united pa-
rishes of, 805
White Cart, river, 879
White Inch, improvements at, 695
Whiteloch, the, 77
Wilkie's plough, manufactory of, 796
968
LANARKSHIRE.
Wilson, James, execution of, for Rebel-
lion, 305
Wilson, Mrs, mortification by, 28
Wilsontown iron-work, 78
Windgate house, ruins of, 819
Wishaw house, 616
Wiston and Roberton, united parishes of
Witchcraft, ordinance relating to, 116
Woodhall house, 783
Woods. See Plantations
Zoology, 8, 67, 260, 302, 319, 358, 424,
447, 480, 500, 521, 538, 551, 576,
611, 627, 672, 727, 776, 811, 851
Zoology, general, of the county, 933
PRINTED BY JOHN STARK,
OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE, EDINBURGH.
VJ?
nw.iu. i
DA
865
N53
v.6
The new statistical a<
of Scotland
PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE
CARDS OR SLIPS FROM THIS POCI
UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRAR
Live Music Archive
Librivox Free Audio
Metropolitan Museum
Cleveland Museum of Art
Internet Arcade
Console Living Room
Books to Borrow
Open Library
TV News
Understanding 9/11