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NICARAGUA:
) Past, Present and Future;
A DESCRIPTION OP
Its Inhabitants, Customs, Mines, Minerals, Early
History, Modern Fillibusterism, Proposed
Inter-Oceanic Canal an»
Maitiiest Destiny.
By peter F. stout, Esq^.
LATB UnriED STAnS nCB OOVBUL.
BdlaNicangua! El Paraifo de lai lodin.
2. 00(r
PHILADELPHIA :
PHILADELPHIA:
John E. Potter and Company,
617 Sansom Strbbt.
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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1859, by
Peter F. Stout,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in
and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.
A'^
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To THE
HON. CHARLES F. MAYER,
Baltimore.
My Dear Sir : —
I di3cliarge an agreeable duty in dedicating
this Yolume to you, for, believe me, your commenda-
tions alone have drawn the Manuscript from seclusion.
May I trust that the hopes now fenned into flame
may prove other than ashes, and that the work may
receive the distinction which you have so flatteringly
predicted for its future?
Very sincerely, yours,
PETER P. STOUT.
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NICARAGUA :
PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE.
What the Press says of It
With a beautiful climate, a soil of unsurpassed fertility, and mines of woiw
drous wealth, this interesting country occupies a prominent position in the
eyes of the whole civilized world — but especially so to the people of these
United States. She is the key to our Pacific possessions; and with a govern-
ment of proverbial instability, the lives and property of vast numbers of our
eUisens annually passing through her borders are placed in jeopardy. All
these, with other great points of interest will be found fully covered by tfaii
▼olnme. How acceptable it has already provedto the American people, may
he gathered from the notices annexed.
''The work is printed on beautiful paper, in a clear type, Jtnd well bound.
We have read Squiers' Central America, but were more interested with the
narrative of Mr. Slout. The work pursues a natural order — overlooking
nothing of interest — giving glowing accounts of the country, its scenery and
resources— doing justice U» the hit<tory of the country and ils revolution and
lesdern, and present inhabitants. It gives, in compact style, the history of
Kinney's and Walker's expeditions, and results. Altogether, the book is
very intere«ting both fur its own merits, and the knowledge it throws upon
matters of growing importance in our great future." — Independent Cioilian,
''Mr. Stout believes that 'manifest destiny' will one day incorporate
Nicaragua with the United States. His book is full of interest, and evidently
written with great knowledge of its subject." — Philadelphia Preee,
" The book is replete with interest not only intrinsic, but from the manner
in which the subject to which it relates is treated." — Neio Orleann Delta,
" It is a work of about four hundred pages, and embraces more information
on the subjects which the author treats of, than any other work of the kind."
"— Democratic Aye,
** It is written in a clear, easy style, carrying on its very face, the appearance
of truth — no exaggeration of facts or coloring of events, for effect." — Balti*
more Patriot,
" It treats of one of the most important topics of the political world — U
well written — full of plensant sketches — and takes the reader into a beautiful,
and to a great extent, unknown country. Altogether, we highly recommend
the reading of this book." — Eoeuiny Journal,
" It contains a vast deal of useful information about a country which at
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it NICARAGUA.
present oooupies a large share of public attention; is written in a pleasant off-
hand, readable style, and apart frum yalue as a work of reference, is emi-
nently worthy of attentive perusal as an entertainiog book." — Tratueript.
** Daring the fiUibustering career of Wnlker, he was a resident of Nicaragua,
and saw many of the movements of the belligerents. His information is
copious and thorough. The tityle is clear and lively, and the reader findn no
ditticulty in taking in the scenes described, and the events related. Whoever
is interested in the affairs of Nicnragua, will find this book ain indispensable
necessity." — Philadelphia Dispatch.
" He is an easy and graceful writer, and hie style lends many charms to
bis subject. We commend it to our readers, assuring them of its interest."—
Darlington (S.C.) Flag.
" It is well got up, and is a book which should find its way into every
library." — People*^ {Min.) PreM,
** All who desire to become fully posted in the history of Nicaragua, and
spend pleasant moments in its perusal, are advised to purchase this volume."
^-American (Md.) Sentinel,
** One of the most agreeably written books of travel we have met with in a
long time. Its style is simple without poverty of expression, and elegant
without ostentation ; and while it presents its pictures in a soft, romantic
light, it is filled with valuable and accurate information." — Porter*9 Spirit of
the Timee.
** The work is worthy of attentive perusal ; and we feel satisfied that the time
thus spent will be amply repaid in the knowledge obtained of the Central
American States." — Baltimore Republican.
** Will be read with much interest at the present time." — Salisbury {N, C.)
Banner.
''The interest that attaches to every thing relating to Nicaragua, cannot
fail to secure for this book a large sale." — New Church Herald.
"It is a valuable treatise, and imparts much information in regard to the
elimate, soil, productions, habits, and customs of the inhabitants ; and will,
no doubt, be the means of directing the attention o'f enterprising men to that
country." — Athene {Ala.) Herald,
''The pages are written in an impartial spirit; is gotten up in capital style
— as regards type and paper — and it merits what the trade terms a 'run.'" —
Pennsylvania Inquirer.
" This is one of those rare books of travel, calculated to instruct as well as
entertain the reader. For a number of years past, no portion of the globe
has engrossed more of public interest than Nicaragua, arising not only
from the fact that it has been the focus of fiUibustering, but because acroi^s its
territury, either by railroad or canal, is afforded the most eligible route for the
commerce of the world to pass between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. To
those who wish a treatise on this interesting portion of America, we commend
the volume before us as possessing all Uie general reader can deeire." —
Easton (Md.) Star.
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PREFACE.
■^••^
I HAYB written a current History cf Nicaragua, a
Guide Book, and fumislied in a succinct form, infor-
mation, Geographical, Topographical, and Statistical.
My residence in the country afforded me great facilities
for comparing and verifying the authorities consulted,
and the results of my observations and deductions are
comprised in the present volume.
The Past of every Province of the Spanish Americas,
abounds with interest to the student as well as the
general reader; and "El Paraiso de Mahoma" has a
(7)
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8 PREFAC!B.
present historio importance, which renders aught ortho-
dox upon the country desirable and attractive.
I have penned my pages with a view solely to merit
the respect of the Public, having neither vamped nor
tarnished a subject, at present vital to my own country f
and I feel assured, that I have not been led astray by
the garbled statements of those, whose interests may
have suffered from causes^ which have not exercised, in
the remotest degree, an atom of influence upon me.
PsTEB F. Stout.
Philadelphia, Febraarj, 1859.
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Ezt€«t— Oeographioal Pa8ftioii-—yolmaoe9— Lakes— Maaagaft and Ntearagiu^^
BHrera— Th« liio Sua Jaaa^Trailiag Vinei— ▲mgacor»— Mouk«yfr— Bapldii— The
-CatKUlo Mill JCaekai6a>-i;iiw»i(e-^Teiii|>era(HJr»— ^A Iiuudeja.....^*.M...^M..^...<^. 17
CHAPTER n.
PIstrlcto— PApolatlon—Towns, Popalation— Oranada, Its Arehlteetare, Charebea,
Stffsets, Cares, Washing and WaHher-women— ^d Carlos, the Commaudaute't
House, the Old Fort, the CaKtom Hoase— Lake Nicaragua — Rio Frio— La Boqneta
IslaodH— Virgin Bay and the adjacent Country— San Miguelito— San Jorge, its
Parochial Ghojxh— Soad to Kivas ....^ » » 98
CHAPTER in-
Bi vas— Tke Plaata— Market— Seftorltas—Karlr History— Oil Gonzales de Avlla— The
arrival of the Spaniards— Nlcaragna—Bodrlgo de Contreras— Hernandez— The
Capture of the Country— Country about RiTa»— Business— Samoza, the Rebel
Chief— Hotel and fiating^-^^hurch of San Francisco— Bust of Waxhington — Henry
Clay — Price of Land— Stores and Trade— Living, Beef, etc.-*-Mauaer of Cooking
-^Stoves— Wood ^.« SS
(9)
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10 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
PAAB
Old Statne»— The Old ConTent— The Parochial— The Body of the Vlrgln—Tlie
Padre aud the CaliforDiau — A Wager — The Result — La Mercedes — San Juau de
Dio8 — ^The Ouvurameat House — HoMls aad prices of B lard — The Cuartel — The
Troopa — The Band — ^The MuhIc — Funerals — Orave-Yard — Burning BtmcH — In-
strnnieuts of MuHio — Dress — Prices of Clothing — Hats — Shoes — Rents <# Uuoaes
—The Good Old Bale. 41
CHAPTER V.
Rivas— The Hombre—Leoneze— Aztecs— Their Mod amenta — Between" Riyas and
Granada— Obraje— Oil Gonzales— ;-A Luxury — Snakes — Hints for those going to
Nicaragua — Boa Constrictors — Tigres— Tlgre Kegro— Mountain CatH — Coyote—
Bats — ^The Califorhian's Purchase — ^The Chamorro Estate — ^Troops — Muxkets-^
Coit*« Revolvers — Enrolling Soldiers^Mooopolies— Incident in Managua— A
Flogging 48
CHAPTER VI.
Rio Ochomogo— Old Strnctnre — Adobe Buildings : their Strength — Old Indigo Plan-
tation — Nandyme — Horseflesh — Prices — Gaits — Horsemanship — Momobacho— Its
Accent — Gold Mine — Lake on the Summit — Fruits on the Road-Side — Diriomu— •
Old Statue — Landmarks — Corn Estates — Ancient Indigo Plantations— Fields of
Volcanic Matter^— Granada— The Alerte— Masical Analysis— Sympatliy — ^The
Salve Regina— The Transparency — Strange Effect— Home and a Hammock M
CHAPTER VII.
The Houses of Nicaragua — Size— Appearance— Adobes— Size— Form — Material—
Cement — Wells — Water — Money, value of— Trade— Bongoes — National Vessel**—
The Orux and Director Steamers — Manners and Customs — Belfry of La Mercedes
—The Sharpshooter— His Death — Sandoval's Estate — Indigo Plantation — ^The
Lake — Oranges and Mangoes — Corn — Sacate — Pine-apples — Jocotes — A beantiful
E«itate — Cosf-Intemperance— Virtues — Cloths— Socks — Sickness — Physio and
Law « 62
CHAPTER Viri.
Religious Festivals— St. James* Day — San Ignaiins de Loyola— Transit of the Virgin
—The Corpus — St. Peter and the Holy Keys— Images— Santa Theresa — Cochineal
Plantations— Mode of Culture and Preparation of it for Market — Coffee — Its Cul-
tivation*— Sugar— Indigo— Amount of Harvest— Tobacco — Amount Raised — Profits
— Gunpowder and other Government Monopolies— Articles of Manufacrure—
Artificers in Gold and Silver— Opposite Granada— Cattle Estates— Catching
Cattle— The Peta-Haija— Figs and Olives— A Hint 71
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OONTSNT& 11
CHAPTER IX.
PAOS
The Malaccas— CnltiraHoa of the Cacao— Dmcriptioii of a Cacao Bntate— An Vgly
Fitware oati«ide (yraoada — A Shock of an Earthqaake— Specalations ia cane of
Ktnergeocf — Lake Pofo — Delightfal Jaaot — A Lake Comu — A Cap of TIku»— lu
Uti»— Prod actions of the Conntiy— Cigars — Maiie — Agnardtent*— ElTeeti of not
to be mixtaken— Wheat— Minerals— Gold, Silver, and Copper Mines of Depilta—
The Chontales Mining Districts— Matagalpa—Paynter— The Central Scatee— Their
Mi DOM— Account of Hondoru and San Sal Tsdor— Costa Rica— Coal— Want of
Machinery, Means, and Rnterprise....^ -....^....m........................ M
CHAPTER X.
Beyond Granada— A View — Indian Mother and her Load— The Conqnerors— My
Opinion — Masaya — ^The Plaza — The Chnrch — Stores and Mannlkctare« — Fine
Bats, Prices — Hammocks — PruTiMions — Extent of the Town — Dogs and Bazzards
— Country beyond the Town — Nindiri— Its Chnrch — Cool Shade— its Orange»—
Another Fine View— Mai Pais, a road of Lava— Rio Tipitapa and the Lakes—
Sousetking fh>m OTiedo— An OaKis— A Drink, and a Swing in a Hsmmock— En-
trance into Managua — Whom we met*-City hj Moonlight — ^Nihapa — Indian
Temple— A Sell— Difference of Opinions about it— Other Lakes— Washer-women
a|{alii— Ancient History— Seftoritaa....^ .....
CHAPTER XL
Managua— Its Inhabitants— Senrlles and Liberals— Historical Interludes— Educa-
tion—The Fathers of Eld — Bigotry — Ecclesiastics— An Ancient Carving — Padre
Vigil— Religious Ceremonies— The Indians— Squier*8 AMertions relative to the
Mosqaito Indiana — HiMtory again — Ideas about Migration — Antique Stones
(Piednw Antignas) — ^The ConfesMts of the Conquest... 106
CHAPTER Xn
Idols— Good Teeth — Cigarltas— Universal Uro— A Primitive People— A Clean Breast
of several Matters— A Visit with the CouKul-Oeneral of the United States— An
Intt^rettting Domestic Group— Recognition of a well-known Voice— Comforts not
Expected— Country about the City— Fruits— Fleldi*— Cooks— Society— Our Posada
— Biographical Sketch of Chamorro— Also of Jose Trinidad Muftos — Outside of
Mana>nia— On our Tour Again — Scouts — New Road over the M«mntain — Narr*)w
Path -An Incident by the Way-side— Glimpses of the Country— Outposts Ahead,
and our Preparation ^^^ 116
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13 OOMTXNTS.
CHAPTER Xin.
FAoa
MateMw— PopBlatlon— App«arftnc6— The House of our HosU-Onr Bxlfr-Our Paw
—Lake Managua— A Hot Suu and an rnferual Road— A Hut at band— A Friend
In Need -A Stream— A Halt— A Bath— NaKarot^-A Poaada^-^he Und— Host and
Hoete«j—Mtt«quitoea— Attempt to Sleep— Pare^Frijoleii, Tortillas, and Aguardi-
ente— Pleasant Ride, and an Barly Start— Beautiful Appearanee of the Country-
Deer— Ro^s— Fields of Maiie— Sunrise— CocoarButa— Palms, and Calabai»he»-
Caue Huts and Trim Gard*'ii«— Fine Cactus— Pueblo »aev«; and a Posada— Our
Jleal— Beyond the Village— Features of the Country— Soil and Timber— The Plain
of Leon— Ditches— Huts— Nine Volcanoes— Glimpse ui tue Cathedral— Gaudelupe
—City in the distance— Evidences of an anticipated Sally on our Entrance— Our
Posads^-Cup of Cacao— Inhabitwits— Legacies of the Conquerors— The Trooje—
Dragoons— Rainy Season— Our Host 128
CHAPTER XIV.
Historieal lut^rlude-^Location of Leon— Ruined Houses— The Plain— Suburb*—
Cane Hub*— Pirates in 1685— Revolutions— The CitthAdral— Its Siae, Co«, Dexorip-
tion— The Interior— The Organ— The Great Altar— Portraits— Confessional Chain
—Gallery— View fr»m the Roof— College of St. Ramon— The Epl^HSopal Palace—
The Cuartel— The Governmftnt House— La Merce*-G»lvario— Recollection—
Statues— Subtiaba— Plaza and Cathedral— Altars— Market of Leon— PruU*<-Trada
—Stores and Merchant*— The Bishop's Baths— Paralso de Mahoma— Climate—
The Bishop— His Carriage— Mr. Squier— A View from the Roof of San Pedro-
Baptism of a Volcano— Plain of Leon— Earthquaken— A Visit to General Muftoz—
His Attendants— A Tete-^-tete— A Word or Two— Hi& Residence and Family 187
CHAPTER XV.
City of Leon^istory— Decree of Annegcatiou to the tTnited Staten— Gonstftntiou
Adopted— AboliNhment of Papal BiiIIh, Monasteriefl — Abrid^fment of certain Socle-
siaHtical Privileges— The National Flag— The Bishop, Archbishop, and his Holi-
ness the Pope— Various Wars— Gen«ral Morazan—Carrera—Malespin— Capture
of San Juan by the English— Samoza— A Knight— His Revolution— Capture and
Death— Death of Mufloi— President Pineda's Summary Removal— Walker— A
CbaAj^e comes aver Nicaragua— Tboughu and Speculatioas.,. ug
CHAPTER XVI.
Leon— Subtiaba— Country— Quesalgnaque— The Descent— Fruits— Posultega^^hl
chlgalpa— Population— Country and Fruits— A Pleasant Hide— A Choice Estate—
Chinaodega — Its Commerce and Inhabitants — Old Chinaudega— Bad Road to
Realejo — Realejo — Its Harbor— Custom House — Depth of Water— Docks and
Warehouses — Cardon-— San Juan del Sur— Location — Size— Harbor Improvemfonta
—The Papagayas—Brito— Country between San Juan and Virgin Bay— Roads
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cmrrnvTB. 13
PAoa
in lUlbY SeiiMni— Virgiv Btty again— Wliaif->-Tra&6lt Company— Bio Tliritipi^^
Patio Chieo— FallH of Tipiupa— Depth of Ihe Biver— Rio Grande— Sarfaee of
LakeManagna — Dl«taaoe from Kealejo— Cltoutaleit— ProdaetH— Mineralit— Woode
**Atttmttia>*liiand Stro n mn ■Cat tl e Advice aad Reflections..... IM
CHAPTER XVn.
^Yreytowii-^Topofrapky— BxtMt of Ifeeqvtt^ Territory— iBdUm Trlbee— Pope's
Ball— Spain's Claim and Bn|i;laad*e, also Nieai«tnia'f»— Wboee is Valid f— Corona-
tion of a Moe^iiito Kinch-H48 Droao T he Dress of his Chiefo— Bnglish oaoers—
The King's digaifled manner of expressing himself— Baptism— Bapper and Final*
to the Fa reo O rant to the Shepherds— Their Title— Conveyanoe to the Central
▲merleaaConfaaj— Issolngof Stock— Objestoof the Company .<....^»...... IM
CHAPTER XVIII.
^ifofl<EfTd8— TBe nMqpSiro KTttg— The Sbepherfl Onmt denied npoa rmieiM gro«B^
—England Plays her Hand — Cblonel Kinney— His Trials and Uardtihips— De>
Bounced as a Fillibuster— His Expedition- Wrecking of his Vessel— Arriral at
Gmytown — Barning of Grey town prior to his AnriTal — Results and Alleged Canse
— Prertdent Pierce's Declaration of War— The Mnse of History — Colonel Kinney
Elected OoTernor— Preamble and Resolutions of the New OoTemment— Constt*
tntlon— Officers Elected— The Central American Company at a Diseonnt— Kinney 's
Resignation- His Visit to Granada and expulsion thence— Walkefs Empty Boast
—Sale of the Grant to the Mormons «.... 174
CHAPTER XIX.
InhaMtmrfi of tie Mosqnlfo Go«sf-4'heir Weatth-Climate— Itftrodaction of Bell-
gio»— Their oWb Belief— Burial of their Dead— Products of the Coast— Turtle-*
Birds— Fish— Animals— Vines-^rees and Woods— Rivers— Exploration of Indiaa
River by the Golden Club— A Beantifhl Country— Magnificent Forests— Black
River— Gold— Indian River again — Shepherd's Ranche— Grand Falls— Prospect-
ing for Gold— Success — Droves of Wild Hogs— No Country for Snakes— Captain
Wilkinson's Party— Prospecting again— Rich ResulU 188
CHAPTER XX.
War iB the InteHoi^Unlted States Marshal in ar Fix— Arrival of Gen. Walker-
Battle of Virgin Bay— Defieat of Gnardiola— Subsequent Battles— Walker's Trium-
phant Entry into Granadap— Treason and its Punishment — Schlexsiuger Surprised
at Gnanacaste— Charged with Treachery— His Trial, Condemnation, Flight, and
Sentence of Death — Battle of Rivas— Walker again Victorious— Inauguration of
Chamorro— A Nine Months' Siege— His Death— Estrada his Successui^Padre
^gftl's Letter to Mr. Marcy— My OpIaion^Henningsen's Glorious Defense of
Granada— Attack on San Jorge— Gallant Conduct of Capt. Higby— San Jorge
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14 CONTENTS.
again— The Cannonade — Sharp Operation of the Costa Rieans— Capture of CaRtillo
— Eugliuh aud American Officers— What Walker had to Contend with— Evacua-
tion of the Country — Official Bepor( of Walker's Force— The Results of the la-
▼abion '. 194
CHAPTER XXI.
Walker*s Contemplated Second InTaslon of Nicaragua — Sefiors Trlsarrl and Molina
—Their Letter to Secretary Cass— What they think Walker will do— What they
hope the United States will do— Circular of Secretary Cass— Calls on the Officials
—Expects them to do their Duty — Walker Speaks— Apologises for doing so—
Claims to be the Lawful Executive of Nicaragua— Does not want any Interference
firom Costa Rica and Guatemala— Denies Violating any Act of Congress — Sefior
Yrisarri again — ^Wants the Ammcan Government to do the Right Thing— Talks
Hard about Walker— Says the FillibuMters are nothing but Pirate»— Cannot
Deceive the Central Americans, and wonders at the Impudence of the Man of
Pftwtiny •••...••..•.• •.. »••••••• •••.•• ••«••>••••••••..•..•••. 8^ 1
CHAPTER XXII.
A Promise Fulfilled — General Henningsen's Letter to Secretary Cass— His Commis-
sion fk'oro President Walker— What he says about Walker's Election — Hih Per-
manency as a Ruler — His Solicitude for the Soldiery — An Appeal to the President
of the United StatOH— Thinks Captain Davis did not du the Rl|(ht Thing— What
President Mora did — What General Walker did — How long the Invaders were
kept fromjnvesting Rivas — How they attempted at various times to Storm the
Place — How anxious they eventually became to keep out— PoHition of Besiegers
and Besieged on the First of May— What Walker Expected to Do, and How he
was Going to Do it— What Captain Davis Did, and the Way he Did it— How it
Affected Walker's Plans— The Schooner Granada seized and handed over to the
Conta Ricans— Tl^ Guatemala Navy puts to Sea and Murders Captain Lilly 222
CHAPTER XXIII.
Nicaragua Threatens to Suspend the Transit — Her Preamble and Decrees— Lieut.
Almy applies for Instruction!*— Supposes a Case in which Filllbusters figure
Largely — Delicate Points growing out of it — D<>es not wish to Compromise oar
Government— Secretary Toucy Posts him up — Says he must Prevent Fillibusters
from Landing — Commodore Paulding heard from — Says Hard Things about
Walker and his Men — Considers his Reasons quite Sufficient for sending the
FillibuHters home — Refuses any Co-operation of other Powers— Walker Gives his
Parole of Honor — Goes Home at his own Expense — Gives himself up to Marnhal
Ryndem— Seftor Trissarri writes to Mr. Cass— Says Nicaragua Confirms the
Contract with the Transit Company— Thanks the United States for taking Walker
away— Thinks she did the Handsome Thing— Wants his Letter PubUshed S
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CONTENTS. 15
CHAPTER XXIV.
PAoa
Landing of Golambas on the Uosqnlto Shore— Are the MoMquttoes an Independent
MatiuQ ?— What Viiicoant Palmenion saja abont it— The Clayton and Bulwor
Treaty — Coullicting ViewM an to Its Conxtrnction — ^The English Ch»rg6 d'Affairea
to the Government of Nicaragua — A Running Fire of Gasconade— The itame
Official on Boundary Lineti — What Bonnyca«tle says — Treaties of Peace, Bonud-
aries and Commerce between Great Britain and Spain — What an Old English
Author says — Motion to Censure in the Uonse of Lorde— Sefnisal— The Samboes
-^Probable Origin of the Mosqnito Name— The Mosquito Shore eompletelj
Sracuated— The Samboes In a Heal Estate Operation— The Dog in the Mangei>^
Be voiced Negroes from St. Domingo— The Productions of the MoMquitoes— Belize^
It« Armorial Bearings— Surplice Fees - — ..........^...........^...^.............m SCT
CHAPTER XXV.
The Mosquito Coast again— Usurpations of England— Claims of Spain- Indepen-
denee of Guatemala— England's Acknowledgments— The Colony of Bay Islanda
—Conflicting Claimit— An Act of the English Parliament— The Treaty of 18.W—
The Protectorate Fiction and Lord John Rnssel— The United States and Great
Britain — Lord Clarendon's Argument — Mr. Clayton as Rendered by Mr. Lawrenee
—Lord Clarendon again— Mr. WebHter Mittconstrued- Lord John Rat<sel to the
Fomi...; ~ MO
CHAPTER XXVI.
The Inter-Oceanic Canal — Charter for the Transit Route— Synopsis of its Proviidona
—-Its Importance to the United States — PoHtnlate of President Monroe— British
Interference — Nicaragua Protests— The Clayton and Buiwer Treaty Mooted — Mr.
Rives to Lord Palmerston — Reply of the Latter— Cardinal Points of the Treaty-
Treaty of Commerce and Friendship with Nicaragua — ^The Canal Company**
Charter Amended— Leonete Protest — Save Me from My Friends ! — Vive La Cham-
pagne!— The Canal in Nubibos— The Transit Tangible 37S
CHAPTER XXVn.
Bivas Revokes the Transit Company*s Charter— What Niearagna Claims In the
Matter— The Reply Thereto— What the United States and Nicaragua Agreed to
Do— What Rivas Did and the Remedies therefor— The Cass and Yrisarri Treaty
—What ProKident Buchanan sajs— Wants an Armed Force to Protect the Transit
—What the Postmaster-General says — Importance to Foreign Residents of tteep-
ing the Route Open — Monsieur Belly Negotiates for a Route — Remarlis of the
French PreKs thereou— Christopher Columbus, Baron Humboldt, and Louis
Napoleon on Inter-Oceanic C>>mmunications — Overland Route— Geu. Cass on the
Intervention of Foreign Powers— The Policy of the American Gontineiii..»— ..... 2S0
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16 OONTENTtf.
CHAPTER XXVin.
A DmsH at ^olltlai] Hlgtory— Kxtent and Popalation of <Hat«maTa— >now It was
Oorerned nnder Spain— Her Liberality and its Abaae hj the Mother Gonntry—
DiHConient and InMnrreetlons— Independence Oeelared — Oainia eboaen President
—A General Congrees Called— GonHtitation—>4nbdiTlston into Slates— Popnlation
and Capiiata— Bk>nndarie8 of the United Provtn eee T he LeglslatiTe Puwef^-*8tate
B4g«latioii*— tfattoiul Hag ud Ita Derioea^^-Tlw ArMoi of the Caatilhui 9M
CHAPTER XXIX.
OMgla of the ICnrieana-Smlffratlon— The Six Tri¥ea-TlMir VoitaMi ra« MMb^
taoee—Funnd the City of Mezioo— Elect a King— Montezama the Elder— Monte-
nma the Tunnirer^-Oominff of the Spaniards — Onatemotin— Ck>rtd8 — Dice of a
Bniken Heart— His Bemaine— Title and Estates— Blood of the Montexnma»—
Piiarru— Title, Estates, and Descendants — His Remains— One of his Fingers In
BaAttakore^nkn Holy Gnwe-^Montesnma a Deity— El PluaUo de Jfahoma. 81%
CHAPTER XXX.
Cort^a ta SeareH of the Strait— What OTiedo thonght^AWando tn Seaieh of ii-»
ChristoTal de Olid— The Secret to make Charles the Fifth Lord of the Worlds
All the Maritime Nations of Europe trying to Penetrate it^-Spaln Eager on the
Subject— Balboa Bevels In Odd and Gems— Snifers as a Traitor— Pedro Aria»—
The Conquerors of Mexico and PeruF— Mutual Aslooishment— Speculation still Rife
as to the Strait— The Secret yet in Embryo— FIto Points of Transit— Objections to
a 8bip duml'-'Adttanfefea of a Bailmty-^Esttmates and Bemarks J9I
CHAPTER XXXL
Cardinal fiouroes of a NatloaV Greatnes s T he Future of Vlearagu*— Contains all
the Elements of Wealth — Must Awake or Sleep Forever— A Vigorous Republic on
the Wiog— The Great Nations of the Ea«t— Halls of the Monteznmas— The Re-
publics of the Great Southern Continent— California a Vast National Mart— San
Francisco the ComttantinoiAe at the Anierteae-^Gold Ounters of the Conquest-
Mountains ncTcr Keep Accounts— The Great Pacific Railway— The Present Mail
Ronte-^Trwie of iialtt^'Oar CoafelaeHt-4hip Gaaat— Gna* Britain ««viw th*
United atatts u .,- 1 , u. S49
CHAPTER XXXn.
The CasHlfan Conquest— The Romance of the Fifteenth Century— Conflicting Opin-
ions — Mexico— Senator Houston** Proposition— Brants Mayer — Abbe Molina-
Want of Confidence Illustrated- Nicaragua as it is— Prescott — What Spain was
under Ferdinand and Isabel — What she is Now— Causee of a Nation*s Rise or
FaU— Destiny of the United States— One of Wealth and UnlTersal BedempUon... 36g
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NICARAGUA.
PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE.
CHAPTER I.
IXTBirr — GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION — YOLOANOES — LAKES — XAVAGVA Ain> HTO-
ARAGOA — RIVERS — THE RIO SAN JUAN^TRAILING VINES — ALLIGATORS—
XONKBYS — RAPIDS — THE CASTILLO AND M AGHUCA — ^CLIMATE — TBMPEBATUEa
—AN INCIDENT.
The Repat)Iic of Nicaragua is embraced entirely between
83^ and 88° west longitude from Greenwich, or 6° and ll<^
west from Washington, and between 9^ 30' and 15^ of north
latitude, with an area of between fifty and sixty thousand square
miles, being about seven times the extent of Massachusetts.
It is bounded by the Caribbean Sea on the east ; on the west
by the Pacific Ocean ; north, by the river Vanks, or Segovia,
2* (17)
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18 NIOARAQUA.
and partly by the river Roman ; and south by Costa Rica —
or, as this is a mooted point, we may add, its southern bound-
ary, separating it from Costa Rica, runs in a right line from
the mouth of the river Salto de Nicoya to the lower mouth
of the Rio San Juan. Its geographical position, having a
fine harbor, the town of Greytown, or San Juan, on the At-
lantic, and other fine harbors on the Pacific, fully entitles this
small State to the consideration of statesmen and the mercan-
tile world, and has won for it its motto " The vast gate of the
tvyin sea." The great chain of Cordilleras diverges in two
ranges, and all the streams upon the southern side fall into the
lakes Managua and Nicaragua, or into the Rio San Juan.
The Pacific range, in volcanic cones, follows the general direc-
tion of the coast, gradually settling to low hills and plains.
The principal cones are Momotombo, Momobacho, Ometepec,
Madeira, with those of Viejo, Santa Clara, Axusco, Orosi,
Abogado, together with others less remarkable, yet known
not alone as landmarks, and as beautiful natural structuref;,
but as being the traditional depots of great hidden wealth.
There are two remarkable and beautiful inland lakes: that
of Managua, erroneously called Leon, and Nicaragua; the
former being about fifty-five miles long by thirty-five in width,
ranging from two to thirty-five fathoms deep. The mou.n-
tains of Matagalpa, rich with silver, gold, lead, and other
minerals, on the northern and eastern shores, margin with
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LAKES MANAGUA AND NICARAGUA. 19
^onirons beaaty this quiet basin, while Momotombo, from
whose lofty peak I watched thin clouds of smoke wreathing
upward, relieved by the dark gray morning sky, rises, grandly,
in its bosom ; Momotombita, a fit companion, stands in bold
relief, so beautifully artistic in design and character, that it
wins an involuntary exclamation from us as, on the beach, we
gaze far up its shaggy ascent.
The Lake Nicaragua is about one hundred and ten miles
long by thirty-five to sixty miles in breadth, and ev6ry
variety of depth may here be fathomed. This sheet of water
is the most beautiful of any I ever saw ; and yet within its
depths the rapacious shark fins his way along, and the timid
mariner witnesses waterspouts, and experiences the most
sudden, dangerous squalls met with in any water on the globe.
Its sole outlet is the Rio San Juan. During the months of
October, November, December, and January, the prevailing
winds are from the northeast, and the waves of the lake scud
angrily upon the beach, dashing the spray, broadcast, in
refreshing showers. At such seasons, travelers, desirous of
journeying from the south, experience much difficulty in
getting off in the small schooners heretofore exclusively used
between Granada and the ports south of it — S.m Jorge and
Virgin Bay. Indeed, I have known parties who have been
delayed two weeks, yet endeavoring, perhaps frequently dur-
ing the day, to launch their boats, but ere their sails would
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20 KIOAILAGUA.
fill, the breakers, rushing shoreward, would drive the boats
high and dry upon the beach. It was formerl/ supposed from
this, that there wae an ebb and flow to the lakte, and judging
at such seasons, a stranger would be convinced that it was no
dream, but an actual reality. The streams known as the San
Carlos and Serapaqui, flow into the Rio San Juan, with
numerous others bordering it. This river is from one hun-
dred yard& to a quarter of a mile wide, from one to twenty-
five feet deep, and about ninety-one miles long, margined
by heavy underbrush and fine tknber; while the bank on
either side is so heavily screened with trailing vines, that
at various places it is impenetrable to the eye. I have seen
a single one, climbing up 'a gigantic Trumpet-tree, wreathe
round its top, eover it, then falling gracefully in myriads of
clusters resembling the various jets of a fountain, reach lerra
firma, then clasp another tree, and so on until one would almost
imagine the Banyan before him. ITpon its shores, and on
the many sand islets, is seen reposing, in fancied and blest
security, like a fat millionaire, the swarthy alligator ; and leap-
ing from tree to tree, and shriekingly from vine to vine, are
countless monkeys — some short-tailed, others long, ring-tailed,
others no-tailed, cropped oflF short, regular bob-tails.
For calm, quiet beauty, the Rio San Juan is pre-eminent,
and will retain numberless charms for the tourist's eye, even
should the axe of the settler ring through the wilderness on
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TITE RAPIDS — MAGHUCA AND CASTILLO. f 1
hs banks. There are yarioas rapids in the ascent, yiz. : the
MiM'bncha, the Castillo, the Tauro, the Cow, and the Calf.
The Machacha Rapids take their name from Captain Diego
Maehaca, who, in 1529, explored the river. They are by no
means entitled to the name, bat may better be designated as
an eddy, for here the river bends, and the current is swift,
indeed very swift, yet navigable for stern-wheel boats without
much difficulty. The Castillo Rapids — where the old castle
frowns from its height of one hundred feet or more above, are
truly such, yet far from equaling those on the St. Lawrence
River, and others elsewhere. They appear to have been
formed by art, rather than Nature. Large loose stones
obstruct the river, and the swift current roars through the
interstices, seeming at a short distance to be indeed very
formidable ; yet I, with others, in 1850, endeavored to haul a
stern-wheel iron steamer up them, and should have succeeded,
hud the banks been firm, or had we had a stump around
which to trail our hawsers. Our feet slipped, the current
swept the boat down — down over the rapids. Being of
iron, she bounded from rock to rock, and after sweeping
perhaps one hundred yards down the current, ran safely
ashore on the opposite bank.
It requires but little valor to brave these rapids ; and the
heart of a sailor throbs lightly and easily under his jacket, as
he steers his craft into the stream, and mounts the noisy little
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22 mCABAQVA.
bubbles. Fort St. Jaan, called also the CaRtle of Neastra
ScMiora, sarmoonts the hill at the Castillo Rapids, on the left
in ascending the river. It is now in a state of decay ; but
in its earlier days it had a small battery, mounted with thirty-
six guns, whose platform was level with the water, the whole
enclosed on the land side by a ditch and rampart. The gar-
rison consisted of one hundred infantry, sixteen artillery-men,
and sixty militia, and was also provided with guard-boats,
which were rowed up and down the river every night The
fort was provisioned from Oranada; and six months stores
were always stowed away in the capacious under-ground
garners.
There is a variety of climate in Nicaragua, the heat being
less on the Pacific than the Atlantic coast. On the former,
the rainy season sets in in the early part of May ; and with
the exception or intervention of fifteen or twenty days in July
and tbe beginning of August, continues till October, and in
some sections till November. During the remainder of the
year an occasional shower refreshes the heated air, sufficient
Dnly to glaze the parched leaves — yet in this dry season, fine
fruits are in abundance; and although the crisp grass and
wilted leaves evidence dronght, or in fact, correspond to our
winter, yet with the difference in mid-day, there is no great
change in the temperature. The interior is cooler than the
coast by about 14^ Fahrenheit. On the Atlantic, rains fall
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ITS TEMPERATUBS. 23
tbronghoat the year with considerable nncertainty ; the driest
season is from June to October; the wettest from that to
May.
From daybreak to 10 A. M., in this country, is always pleas-
ant, and a ride on horseback is enjoyed ; from 10 A. M. to
4 P. M. the heat is intense, so much so, that the population
are generally swinging in their casas in their hammocks, save
the mariners and washer-women, who are sprinkled over the
lake beach at Managua and Granada; from 4 P. M. the
temperature is modified by the coming on of night There
seems scarcely a pause between the bright glare of the sua
and the mellow rays of the moon : twilight being a dream, or
mayhap a memory of a far-distant land.
The evenings are delightfully agreeable, and the air pure,
BO much so, that a party conyersing in the usual key, may be
interpreted at the distance of a square, and I have frequently
been able to follow the air of some serenader, distant at least
three-fourths of a mile.
The rainy season is the most pleasant, the thermometer
ranging from 78° to 88^, rarely below 12^ in the night, and
rising to 90° in the afternoon. At Granada, in June, 82°;
in Leon, in July, August and September, 83°; and a strong
breeze sweeps from the lake, rendering the nights just such
as guarantee refreshing sleep. In the dry season, in January,
the temperature is less occasionally cool ; every thing is filled
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S4 NIOARAQUA.
with dast; clouds of grasshoppers sweep over the forests,
devour the leaves of the trees and vines, and leave a ghostly
pictare of desolation and aridity behind. I remember, durii:g
a ride from the little Indian village of Nindiri to Managua,
in company with several friends, meeting a host of these
rapacious banditti. We were in the midst of a forest; a
cloud seemed to hang over our heads ; a rattling among the
dried leaves of the trees attracted our attention, resembling
sand thrown on blotting-paper, though louder.^ Wherever we
turned, there this living cloud extended. We found, upon
reaching the outskirt of the woods, that an immense body of
grasshoppers were winging past us, leaving leafless bushes,
trees, and a trail of barren, poverty-stricken herbage. We
pushed forward, in a fast walk, and judging by the time
occupied, we estimated this moving mass to have been iatleasi
four miles long by three miles in breadth. This is not an
uncommon visit, nor do I over-estimate the extent of this de-
scribed party of insects.
Years agone, their devastation was so great, that prayers
were offered up in all the churches of the State. The towns
were filled with them — the yards, rooms, barracks, and
churches; wherever there was a void, there they went
Prayers were unavailing, useless, till one mom, at daybreak,
a mighty rushing was heard overhead. A terrible crash, a
battling, as it were, of wings, mingled with cries and shrieks.
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BAN MIGUEL'S GREAT BATTLE. 25
On came tbe heavy cload, and far above, clad in angelic
armor, San Miguel was seen driving the enemy back, and at
everj blow mat^sacring myriads. As the sun rose fully np,
tbe scene on Natnre's canyas grew fainter, the cries less
distinct, yet the sword of the patron saint was seen still
battling. The enemy was routed ; the country safe. So runs
tbe story.
These same insects, or their progeny, retnmed there during
mj stay in the country, and seemed to have all the fun to
themselves. However, they did not settle there, but only paid
a flying visit, leaving ample room for other adventurers,
whose patron saints were strong arms, whose advent was sose^
and whose dispersion was at least nncertaiiu
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CHAPTER II.
DISTRICTS, POPULATION — ^TOWNS, POPULATION — ORANADA, ITS ARCBITBCTURB,
CHURCHES, STREETS, CARTS, WASHING AND WABHER-WOMKN — SAN CARLOS,
THE COMMANDANTR's HOUSE, THE OLD PORT, THE CUSTOM HOUSE — LA KB
VICARAGUA— RIO PRIO — LA BOQUETA — ISLANDS — VIRGIN BAY AND TBI
ADJACKNT COONTRT— SAN HIQUSLITA — SAN JOBOB, ITS PAROCHIAL CBUBCH
—ROAD TO RITAS.
There are six districts in this State : viz., Rivas ; Cbontales,
Granada, Massaya, and Manngua ; Leon and Chinandega;
Matagalpa; Segovia; and Guanacaste. From a late census
return, the combined population amounts to two hundred and
sixty-four thousand : — Rivas, twenty thousand ; Chontales,
Granada, Massaya, and Managua, ninety-flve thousand ; Leon
and Chinandega, ninety thousand ; Matagalpa, forty thousand ;
Segovia, twelve thousand ; and Guanacaste, seven thousand.
There are about twenty towns, varying in population from five
hundred to thirty thousand. Rivas, or ancient Nicaragua, has
about eleven thousand ; Granada, fifteen thousand ; Massaya^
(26)
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G&ANADA — ITS ABOUITECTURE — TRAVEL. ST
fifteen thoasand ; Managaa, eleven thoasand ; Leon, twenty-
five thousand to thirty thousand; and Ghinandega, about
twelve thousand.
Qranada, lying on Lake Nicaragua, occupies the site of the
ancient Indian town " Salteba." Its buildings are of adobes
roofed with tiles, while its principal edifices, with domes and
towers, are of a strange medley of Moresque architecture.
The windows are bird-cages on a large scale ; the houses are
one story in height, and are about sixteen or eighteen feet
from the pavement to the eaves of the roofs, which project
beyond the walls, and serve to wanderers as coverings from the
rain. The pavements are raised, leavin^^ the streets about two
feet or more below; and as the town is built on terraces,
during the rainy season floods of water rush down this chan-
nel with great velocity, rendering it any thing but an easy
task to cross from side to side. The streets are narrow,
though ample for convenience and beauty. They are unpaved,
and in dry weather dusty ; yet better sheltered by the over-
hanging roofs from the tropical sun than those of North
America. The churches are generally in a state of decay,
and present little remarkable to the eye.
Riding on horseback is the principal mode of traveling.
There are mule paths throughout the entire State, but few
roads are passable for a cart or wagon, not many of which are
used. The carters with their loaded vehicles often afford a
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^ NICARAQXTA.
rich treat to the observer, though doubtless vexations enough
to themselves. With one wheel perhaps in a deep wash, the
other on a rock, it requires assiduons attentions on the part
of tlie driver to ever reach a market with his cargo in safety.
The wheels screech, for grease is never nsed, but instead of it
a bush, called the soap-bush, also nsed for washing ; this, far
a time, eases the thirsty axle, but, anon, as the wheel rolls on,
its plaintive cries for more soap grate harshly on the ear. It
is said this custom of non-^^easing is deemed politically expe-
dient, for no enemy can thus approach a town witbont giving
due notice.
Taken altogether, the city of Granada is situated beautifully,
and is a truly delightful residence, it was founded in 1522,
by Francisco Hernandez de Cordova, who built a fort for its
protection on the lake beach, which is now much dilapidated,
or was, prior to Gen. Walker's entering it. Its gray walls,
and its sentry-box, which may once have resounded with martial
music, are now deserted, save where the humming washer- woman
hangs the banner of her profession — a shirt, or its accompani-
ments — on the bulwarks, to bleach in the sun. • These ladies
do a vast deal of thumping. Your clothes are sent to bje
washed, say at seventy-five cents per dozen ; it must be stated,
definitely, starching and ironing, or there will be extras in
the bill. They take the clothes to the lake, place them
between two large stones, (similar to the iron stone,) rub
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THE RIO SAN JVAN-^SAN CARLOS — THE LAKE. 99
them with the soap-bnsh, and then beat them till in a foam ;
then a rinse in the lake ; soap them again, and another beating
Dpon the stone, in so yigorous manner, as onlj to be fullj
appreciated hj the poor fellow gazing on, and qaestion-
ing himself as to where he shall get battens to replace those
now flying off; and who is to do the sewing. A clean shirt
is a luxury ; but even a clean one without buttons, is sadly
Texatious.
Having ascended the Rio San Juan to Lake Nicaragua,
let us pause at this spot, and survey, on either hand, the out-
spread panorama. To the right, on an eminence, stands the
house of the Commandante of San Carlos, protected by a
single gun, loaded to the muzzle probably for ten years past, and
over whose touch -hole lies a piece of broken crockery. Here
also is the Custom House, a regular frame bam, supported on
posts some sixteen feet high, and under which goods are piled in
indiscriminate confusion. The place was dedicated to the State,
but dogs, pigs, and cows here meet on eqnal terms, and litter
and repose in perfect security. The Old Fort lies back on a
higher point, decayed, and covered with gross herbage. Its
position commands the Lake and the mouth of the San Juan.
Here also are piled up a great quantity of balls ; and fine can-
non, of exquisite mould, lie half hidden in the grass. The
town consists of a few cane huts.
The Lake is before us — a wondrous, beautiful sheet-^
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
80 NICARAQUA.
st'iided with islands, covered with fruits and valnable
woods, while, from its bosom rise Ometepec and Madeira,
giant sentries o^er the wide and waving waste. To the left,
flows the Rio Frio, whose sonrces are in the moantains of
Costa Rica, from whence is derived the coolest and most re-
freshing water in the State ; and although it has a depth of
two fathoms, or more, for fifty miles above its month, and,
consequently, is navigable for small stern-wheel steamers, yet
its history is sealed, naught being, as yet, known concerning
it, save from the unfriendly Guatosos Indians, who ii. habit its
banks, and who deny all entrance there. From some of these,
glowing accounts of gold, silver, and opals have been re-
ceived.
The islands of La Boqneta swarm near Granada, resembling
the floating gardens of ancient Mexico. Solentiname, Zapa-
tero, Cubi, the Corales, and numberless smaller ones, all dot
the lake, a full account of which we are compelled to forego in
our general history, though all are worthy of attention and of
a visit. Across the lake is Virgin Bay, the landing point for
passengers who have left the United States for California. It
is on rising ground. The site will never answer for a town of
any importance, although a pier has been constructed at great
expense, for the landing of passen^^ers. Its harbor is any
thing but safe, the bottom being hard and sandy. Prior to
the iutroductiou of steamers ou the Lake, vessels anchored at
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THE COUNTRY — SAN MIQUELITO — BAN JOROE. 31
certain seasons, one mile and a half from the shore, to prevent
dragging their anchors when the wind was high.
The country around it is rich and fertile, though grown up
with rank vegetation and underbrush ; and until the axe and
plow are generally introduced here, and the hardy Anglo-
Saxon dares its privations, malarias will abound, and the
stories of Nicaragua's natural wealth and incomparable beauties
will be received with suspicion, or listened to as were the tra-
ditionary legends of the ancient Incas of Peru.
San Miguelito is on tlie little bay of the same name, twenty
miles above San Carlos. The country around is generally
uninviting, though good grazing ground. Beyond, lie the
Yolcanic mountains of Chontales. The shores are low and un-
dulating. Those desirous of visiting what is generally termed
Nicaragua, push across to the west side of the Lake where
the outlined hills present a more favorable prospect. Beyond
the black, volcanic masses, the mind imagines green fields,
luxurious savannahs, and other scenes refreshing and pleasant
to dwell upon. We shall speak of Chontales elsewhere in our
volume.
A few miles north of Virgin Bay, on the opposite shore from
San Carlos, stands, on rising ground, the little village of San
Jorge, the port of Rivas. It is a pretty spot; almost every
house surrounded with the coyal palra, the banana, plantain,
and the cocoa. lu its little plaza stands its parochial church,
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$i RTOABAQUA.
bnilt in the uniform Moresque style, and dedicated to San
Jorge. It is quite large, and contains twelve or thirteen
altars, exclusive of the main one, covering the back part entire.
It has few relics, nor is it richlj ornamented, but answers that *
for which it was intended — a house of God. The padre I
met acted as my cicerone ; and after showing me the church
and village, invited me to his house, where he regaled me with
a good cigar, some good wine, and bis blessing. I sprang
into the stirrup, and after promising to deliver certain letters
for him, as well as to call again, returned to the main road,
and pushed forward to Bivas.
The road verges greatly — its length, probably about three
miles, though one may think it five or six. Scattered along
the route are ranchos hidden in orange and lemon groves,
while, lining the path, the mango, to me the handsomest tree
in the world, woos the weary traveler to a siesta. He is
tempted to rest; the cocoa-nut hangs bewitchingly from its
eyrie above, while the rattle of its milk within, appeals strongly
to his tastes. He seizes a full one, leaps from his mule, and
for a time forgets absence from those beloved in a distant
clime.
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CHAPTER III.
BITAf^mfe PLAIA — MARKIT— BBirORITAg— VAKLT ■IBTOBT— «1L ttOVSALW
PI AVILA — THB ABBIVAL OF THB 8PABIABD8 — ^HICABAOUA — BODBIGO DB
OOBTBBBAS — HBBBANDBZ — THB OAPTDBB OF THB COUBTBT — OOnVTBT
▲BOUT BIVAS — BUSIBBSS — BAHOZA, THB BBBBL CHIBF — HOTBL AND BATDia
— CHVBCH OF BAN FBANCISCO—BUBT OF WABHINGTOB— HBBBT OLAY— PBIOB
OF LABD— BT0BB8 AHD TBADB^UYOie, BBBF, BTO.— MABBBB OF OOOKOia
— BTOYBB — WOOD.
OuB way is over a rolling country, well covered with fraits,
where are numeroas sites for beautiful homes. Rivas, the
capital of the district, is entered by a broad road leading to
the plaza, found in every Spanish settlement Upon it is
located the Cathedral, Oovemment Houses, and shops, while
the ground itself is occupied daily by the country people, who
here sell their marketing — corn, beans, onions, oranges,
lemons, pine-apples, jocotes, coffee, tobacco, sugar, cheese-
in line, everything from the haciendas to tempt the appetite
and appease it The sefiorita, with her dark olive skin well
8 (88)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S4 NIGA&AOUA.
washed for the occasion, in her nice camisa, not reaching to
her waist, and with a skirt independent of anj contact above,
smokes her cigarita, and laaghs with the bargainer, while her
sparkling eye entices the onwary foreigner to purchase at an
exorbitant rate.
The dark-eyed danghters of Seville, and the nut-brown
lasses of Nicaragua, have the same origin ; their language,
mayhap, is partially dianged, jet their spirits, their souls,
are identical, and he who stays his steps beside the little
saleswoman, will purchase. Smiles have a eomrnoii origta,
And sweet ones wreathe the pouting lips of Nicaragua's
daughters, sufficient to Ji>ewilder any poor devil who, for the
first time, dallies by their side.
The city of Rivas occupies the site of the aboriginal town.
The first Spaniard who visited it was Oil Qonzales de Avila,
who sailed from Panama in 1523. This noble landed upon
the shores of the Oulf of Kiooya, with four horses and one
hundred men. After experiencing many hardships, he entered
the domain of the chief, Nicoya» who gave the Spaniards valu-
able presents, and in turn received from them glass toys and
other pretty articles. Oonzales, learning that many miles
northward, another efaief had his territory, pushed forward, aad
reached the old town of Nicaragua, now Rivas, the si^^ject
of our present lehaptar. After some difficulties, battles en>:ued
between theiQ. The Ifpanish horse, an object of terror lo
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HISTORY or BJYASr-rrJT» PBODVCTIONS. ^
these IndiaM, as well as to the early Mexicans and Pepnvlaiui,
saved the utter destraetion of the Spanish party; and the/
returned to Panama, with mighty acconntB of the country, its
resources, and its people.
Pedro de Arias thereupon determined to found a colony
there, and dispatched Francisco Hernandez de Cordova for
that purpose. Leon and Granada were built ; but Pedro did
Arias dying, his son-in-law, Rodrigo de Contreras, succeeded
him. The orders of the crown, denying him, or any of the
officers, holding the Indians as property, were disregarded.
Provoked by petty and private jealousies, assassinations
occurred. Rodrigo sought Spain to vindicate himself; and
iu his absence, Hernandez openly revolted, took possessioa
oL the country, and then embarked for Panamft, which he
captured ; met with various mishaps, and finally sickened and
died. In time it became a province in the Captain-generally
of Guatemala, and so remained until 1823, when a spirit of
republicanism drove monarchy from the country. Such is
the history of Rivas.
The country immediately around, is just such as might be
rendered all that man could desire. Three good crops may
be raised annually. Corn will average fifty to seventy bushels
to the acre. Indigo grows luxuriantly ; fine woods ; and the
best-fiavored and strongest coffee I ever drank — to my taste,
superior to the Mocha. At one time Rivas occupied the
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86 NIOARAGUA.
prominent position for commerce ; Its port, San Jor^e, being
forty-five miles nearer the Rio San Jnan than Granada, and
the immfdiate lands about San Jorge being well cultivated
and high; but the Connection now fnllj established tbrongh
from the Pacific, has deprived it of all importance, and
Granada mast become at some time the favorite locality in
the State. Prior to the connection above-mentioned, pas-
sengers touching at Realejo, on the Pacific, traveled on mules
across the country, and arriving at Granada, would there take
bungoes, at whatever rates could be agreed on, for Grey town.
This of itself has aided Granada greatly. Impressed with its
delightful situation, its bathing, its fine fruits, and the high
order of intellect of its inhabitants, many remained there for
months. Some intermarried, and thus business connections
were formed, which eventuated in Granada becoming the
favorite among all classes of foreigners.
To me, however, Rivas is a grand old place. There is
something in the ruined cathedral on its plaza, the marks of
devastation everywhere to be found, the remnants of antique
statues seen in old rubbish, and in the songs of the people,
which remind one of some old legend, read in the palmj
days of youth. I passed hours sitting on a broken wall, en-
deavoring to image fully to myself the primal condition of
this edifice, of this statue, or of that cathedral. Amid so
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8AM0ZA — WASHIXOTON — HXNBT OLAT. 8T
mnch falleo grandeur, such general wreck, what lessons have
been taught, and what have been learned I
War is common among ail the Central States. The leaders
think little of an engine which conveys death to the mass;
politics are their footballs, and the people the levers, the
tools whereby their ends are to be attained. One morn, after
a long walk about the suburbs, on reaching a corner, I ob-
serred a gibbet before me. I asked a muchacho standing by,
what it meant He told me the famous Samoza, a rebel
chief, had been hung there. I took out my knife, and cutting
off a piece, put it in my pockety much to the boy's surprise.
The hotel I lodged in had every comfort — good beds, mat-
trasses, a good tAble, and every edible well-cooked, and, to
to my surprise, every thing, even to the towels in my room,
were white and clean : these luxuries cost two dollars and a
half per day. Above the hotel stood the Church of San
Francisco. I had been in it frequently ; but one day, seated on
the steps, and casting my eyes upward, to my great surprise, I
marked the bust of General Washington, in a niche over the
door. Amazed, I inquired of a man passing, what that bust
was called. He replied: "Saint Francis." **0h, no I" I
retorted, "'tis an American, the great General Washington '*
The poor hombre raised his hat, crossed his hands on his
breast, muttered something I supposed to be a prayer, and
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$S MIOABAGUA.
t/ben replied : " Ah, seflor, he is loved vei^ ranch by Nica-
rngaa — and Henry Clay, too." Two tribates from a poor
Nicaragaan to the' memories of great men of mj conntrj. I
tciok his arm, walked home with him, and spent several de-
lightful hoars in his humble house.
The price of land in and atbont this citj is very moderate,
&t a shoil distance ffom town being only from five to sevea
dollars p^^ tore. There arer tnany delightful private' resi^
dences, and the rent of a house, in good order, can be had
ft»r from eight to twelve dolk^ per laontb; so that oti a
tri6!n^ annuity, it foreigner could live ae happily as bean
deed desire. The business habits of the people are simple ;
Knd Judging by the ease with which every matter of
business is characterized, it would lead to the supposition
that they Were unaccustomed to trade, yet such is far from
the truth. They bargain well ; are, in fact, inveterate Jews,
whether the amount bargaining fbr be a doiiar^s worth or a
dime's. The sUire is one corner of a front room, opening on
the street, cooped off, and resembling tffi old-fashioned corner
cupboard. Here are stowed laces, ruffled, Calicoes, prints,
and other commodities \ pins are generally scarce articles. As
a general thing, there is much to amuse. one among the shop-
keepers. A pound of cheese is wanted. The pound cunnot
be got in a lump — it being the custom to cut it into small
square pieces about the size of a sugar-cracker, and iu this
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LiyiNQ — ^A NieWAQUA COOK-BTOVS. 8ft
waj one most take it. One wants to pnrchase cbickenSy beao8»
bides, or auj thing else at wholesale. The retail price for
chickens is, saj, twenty cents per pair. By the quantity it
will more than likely be thirty or forty cents, for the simple
reason that jou want titem, and therefore mast pay. Beef,
good and fat, cannot be purchased at any price ^ the oxea
are worked till they nearly drop, then they are penned up,
without regard to fatness, until it suits the butcher to kill.
The beef is cut into strips, like coarse shoe-strings, and then
dried in the air for use. Whaterer of fat is found, is con«
Terted into candles.
This beef with corn-cake, sugar and cheese, a sprinkle of
onions and a heavy dash of garlic from the larder, is the
general dish, although at an American hotel a splendid meal
can be had. We give, however, the kitchen arrangements of
the Inhabitants of Nicaragua. The culinary department is re*
markably simple — Adam and Eve might have used the same
apparatus ; it answers pretty well for fries and stews, but it is
to be hoped that some kind of a machine may be introduced
or invented by which a broil may also be had. Two round
stones, on which a pot is placed, is the stove ; fire is kindled
underneath, and from this results your meal. In regard to
wood, one sees no loads brought into town ; a small bundle of
short sticks is sold for ten cents, and it is very difficult to pro-
cure a large supply at any price. It is generally porous and
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40 KIOABAQUA
8oft» and bnrns with difficalty ; and in many cases is a soaree
of great annoyance. A vast amount is taken on board the
Lake steamers, and yet bat little steam can be generated from
it These boats run probably six to seven miles per boar ;
while apon oar waters, with oor wood, the same vessels could
easily make from sixteen to seventeeiL
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CHAPTER IV.
OLD STATVVS— TBS OLD COHYSNT— TBI PAROC]nAL--nnB BODT OP TBB TIBSUI
— TBB PADRB ABD TBB CAUPORNIAR — A WAOBB — TBB BBIULT^LA BBB-
CBDBI — BAB JUAB DB DIGS — TBB OOTBRBBBBT BOCBB — ^BOTBLS ABB PRI0B8
OP BOARD— TBB CUABTBL— TBB TROOPf — TBB BABD--TBB BU8I0~PVBBBAL8
— BBAVB-TARD — ^BURNIBfl BOBBS — IBBTBUBBBT8 OP BUBIC — DBB88 — PBICBS
OP CLOTBIBCI — BATS — 8B0BS — BBBT8 OP BOUBBB— TBB OOOD OLD BDLB.
In and aboat Granada are some few things worthy of note,
to which we recar prior to commencing oar journey toward
the Pacific. On the corner of one of the streets in the apper
portion of the city — the Jalteva — stands an old relic called
"The Stone of the Month," which projects aboat two and a half
feet above the gronnd, and is some two feet broad by the same
in thickness. It was broaght from one of the islands by a
sailor, and is a strange old head. The month being open,
seems to express " Oh ! pb 1" At one corner of the plaza, stands
a statae of black basalt, representing a haman figare with jaws
ai)
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42 NIOARAGUA.
open and tongne protruding, on the head of which rests a cat
or panther.
The old Convent of San Francisco mast hare been an ele-
gant edifice in its day, for even yet it retains a massive
grandeur with the paint and varnish of young years effaced.
It faces a broad avenue, raised at least ten or twelve feet
above the level of the street Its plaza front occupies an entire
square, with steps on either side leading to the level of the
street below. The architecture is yet almost intact, and the
entire building might be renovated at a trifling cost. It
would answer well for a first-class hotel, a school, or govern-
ment house-^by far preferable for the latter to the one now in
use. At the corner of this convent stands another c\trio.sity,
called " The Whistler," a broken fragment of an antique.
The parochial church is a very ancient structure, containing
the bones of some of the early bishops of Managua, some
prints and paintings of very indifferent merits and also, if rufmor
be true, the body of the Virgin.^ The story runs thus: This
body — which heretics pronounce wooden— -was washed ashore
dne windy night, and found by one of the padres on the Lake
beaoh. It was in a box. ITpon opening this, the body was
discovered, togetheF with an inscription to the effect, that no
harm should ever visit the church so long as this body should
be kept inviolate within its walla. The story gaiued pablieity^
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THE PADRS AND THB OAUTOBNIAN — LA MEBOEDES. 43
ontil finally it reached a doubting Californian's <ars. He
applied to a padre for the facts, who told him It was true.
" Well," said the Califomian, " III bet my pile it's not so."
The padre's eyes glistened as he replied, " Yoa shall jndge for
yiurself. The body is discolored, having been in the water so
long ; but yoa may paint it white, or any color desired, and by
to-morrow morning the paint will have vanished." "Agreed I"
said oar friend of El Dorado. The evening came, and the
Califomian, with his gold in his pocket, and his pot and brush
in hand, went to paint the statue. The padre did not flinch.
** Now," said oar friend, placing his money on the floor of the
church, "there's my bet; and look you, padre, I shall sit here
all night after I daub this: and remember, here are two Colt's
revolvers, and if yoa dare to touch the body after I've painted
It, ril shoot you." The padre's heart failed him. He thought
the Califomian would trust to the sacred character of the
church; but the rnse failed, and the matter becoming public,
a laugh ensued. Whether the joke bart the padre or the
Califomian most, I did not learn^
In the interior of the city stands the Church of La Mercedes,
wh'ch U truly an imposing buildhig It is sitaated similar to
t*ie CiMivent of Sin Francisco, and although it cannot bnast
of a (Til led interior, costly altars, or choice paintings, still its
exterior comnanda attention. About this church the private
liauses are of the first order, aud wUhio a itone'e thiow ehiefl|y
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44 mOABAOUA.
reside the elite of the citj. The street leading to the
Jalteva mns by La Mercedes to the sooth side of the plaza^
immediately in front of the anfinished Church of San Joan de
Dios. The facade of this charch is qnlte elaborate and
elegantly designed; it fronts north, however, which, as I
learned, was considered ill-omened, or anpropitions, and it is
conseqnenUy left to decay.
The Oovemment Honse is a shabby saloon, thirty feet long
by twenty wide, and furnished with long desks and benches^
made of Madeira wood — a species of cedar — like those nsed in
country school-houses. There are several fine hotels in
Oranada, the best, if it still exists, being the Irving House.
Price, one dollar and a half a day, or thirty-one dollars a
month. It is located on a street leading east from the
plaza, and immediately in the rear of the parochial church.
Upon the northeastern side of the plaza, stands the cnartel,
a long, one-story building, roughly built, serving as barracks,
magazine, armory, drilling-room, and prison. From this
celebrated depot the troops are trotted out at 12 M. every
sunny day. The drummers beat very well, and a march is
taken around the plaza and the principal streets. The band
generally consists of two violins, two clarionets, one flute, two
or three brass instruments, and a drum and fife. They really
perform remarkably well ; though, for their very lives, they
cannot play ** Yankee Doodle" properly. The music in church
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fUNSRALS— rSAST'DATS, 45
is Qsaally good. The orchestra is larger than the band, and
there is generally a good second tenor voice of considerable
compass and sweetness.
Fnnerals are attended by any and every body. After the
anointing with almond oil, the body is placed on a bier;
the bearers take their posts, and the procession moves on,
headed by the priests, singing. Should the funeral be that
of a child's, the corpse is neatly dressed, the little hands
crossed on the breast, the eyes sometimes closed, and wreaths
or bnnches of flowers cast over it and placed about the head.
Three or four musicians are kept fiddling and singing, and
boys are firing off rockets, squibs, and crackers incessantly,
and thus they march to the final resting-place. To become
accustomed to such scenes greatly reduces the horror, the
unknown, indescribable feeling occasioned by sudden or
familiar approach to death. Yet it is trying to one's nerves ;
and I kept my eyes about me to avoid scenes repulsive to
me, brace myself as I would. The grave-yard is about one
hundred feet square, enclosed with a high fence. They com-
mence at the gate, and bury in a circle ; and when the entire
ground is covered, which, I am told, is about once a year,
they then dig up the bones, collect them under a slab placed
for the purpose, and on a certain fixed day burn them all.
So we go : dust we are, but to thin air we vanish.
All the feast days in the calendar are kept sacred. Every
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one bestows bis time npoa them, and holy week and till other
holidays are bailed with great pleasuie. The bells are so
constantly ringing, that one grows accustomed to their ding-
dong, and feels ill at ease when. wandering in some secluded
spot, with nothing bat the songs and chirps of birds to break
the monotonous silence.
The instrasoieDts of music are quite numerous. I have
heard, on a serenade, the overture to the Caliph of Bagdad,
overture to Luci^, with various masses ^nd anthems, by \hp
old masters, performed in much better style, and in more
perfect time, th^n in my own city, where so much respect is
paid to musical education. The guitar is pre-eminent in all
JBpaiiish jcountries and provinces, and will ever remain so,
for ^ an accompaniment to the voice, it cannot be suqiassed.
The flute und clarionet are idso Jheard* Many of their com-
positions I have listened to with greikt pleasure, and regret
that J can only rejnember or recogni;Ke an occasional link in
the chain of tbc melody.
The masses dress neatly; the l^slators usually in black,
with black silk hats. The public, a^ a plass, wear white coats,
white pants, and |k scarf of scarlet or yellow silk, as a sash,
about their waists. This, with the jaunty, easy, graceful
panama, completes the costume, which is agreeably conve-
nient in such a climate. Clothing is dear. They have a
French tftilor in (Srajg^da wjio cuts we}!. Shoes can be bo.^ght
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THE GOOD OLD BULK. 4T
for aboat one dollar and twenty cents a pair. Hats at yarions
prices. Rent is very low. For eight dollars per mouthy I
took a hoase in the centre of the city, nearly adjoining the
Church of La Mercedes, containing three large rooms, with
a kitchen, an immense yard, and large stable attached. I
deemed this very reasonable, bat my friends thought it more
than sufficient
The customs are extremely primeval, and I was never
offended by any rudeness or ificivjlity. ^ I found the old rule
always brought me out right in the end — Do as you would be
done by. And yet I have heard of extreme cases of duplicity,
partjcularly toward foreigners, by those in power. There is
little for outsiders to hope for, when a nation is wanting in
faith to its own.
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CHAPTER V.
RlVAl — ^THS HOMBItB — LBOHBSS — A8TBCS — THBIR KONrVBHT!! — BBTWIEBll RTTA8
AND GRAITADA — OBRAJB^-«IL 60NZAI.BB — A LUXURY — 8N4KRB — H1NT8 FOR
TR08B GOING TO NICARAGUA— BOA C0N8TRCT0R8 — TIGRB8 — TIGRB NBORO—
KOURTAIN CAT8 — COTOTB — BAT8 — THB CALIPORMIAN'8 PURCBA8B — TBB
OBAMORRO BSTATB — TROOPS — MrBKBTB — COLT'S RRYOLrBRB — KHROLLlBll
iOLDIBRS — ^HONOPOLIBB — IHCIDBNT IN MANAGUA — A FLOOGINB.
BiVAS was once the seat of a Mexican colony, governed by
a Caziqne, Niquira. The dirty hombre, who bears prodigious
hardens of corn apon his back, and who hesitaten at nothing
for a little money, can readily be traced to this origin. Indeed,
in the varioas districts of Nicaragua, the inhabitants differ
greatly, not only in physiognomy but in manner. Those of
Leon, and the interior generally, bear themselves with greater
ease, are more enlightened and refined, and evince a studiuus
neatness in their apparel. Upon the volcano of Ometepec, in
the midst of the Lake, are the descendants of the Aztecs with
(48)
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BETWEEN RITAS AND QRANADA. 49
some of tkeir monaments still remaining, thoagh botb are in a
decaying state. The early padres who accompanied the
Soldiers of the Cross, evinced any thing but forbearance
toward these dumb statues, from which we might now gather
so much. Even those remaining have, in many cases, been
hidden by the natives, who yet hold them in reverence.
Within two leagues of Rivas, is a greater population than
is found to the same extent in any other portion of the State.
The land is well cultivated ; between the road to Qranada and
the Lake, a perfect garden ; to the left, voluptuously rolling,
at times rising to a little hill, yet every acre capable of culti-
vation. Its many beautiful sites for haciendas has frequently
attracted my attention. Three leagnes from Rivas is the large,
long town of Obraje, truly an aboriginal production. It is one
of several around Rivas, and is a pretty fair sample of them all.
Beyond Obraje stretch luxuriant fields, carpeted with waving
grass, inviting one to slip from the saddle for a roll ; but the
Bun beats fiercely there, and we jog on through rows of papaya
trees heavy with fruit, beautiful gardens well trimmed, and
fields of maize rich in promise of an abundant harvest. We
ford a stream, where my mule stops to drink and I to rest.
This is the Gil Gonzales, so named after the adventurer of
whom we have already given an account. Water is appreciated
here, for though a mountainous country, streams are scarce.
The volcanoes, thirsty fellows, seem to have swallowed them up.
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M MIQABAaUA.
Oq a bnsh, by the roadside, hangs something recf^mbling a
cart-laBhy striped like a barber's pole, and which I am told — to
use an English word — ^is a barber snake, and very venomons.
Taking the hint^ I give the gentleman a wide margin and
pass on. These reptiles are sometimes found where least ex-
pected. In Central America the houses rarely have any ceil-
ing to the rooms, and they sometimes hide away in the thatched
roofe ; occasionally falling upon persons andemeath. Those
visiting this country should take calico with them for ceilings
as well as for canopies to bedsteads. They should also pro-
vide themselves with mattrasses, musquito nets, blankets, India-
rubber clothing, hats, strong boots and shoes, knives, pins,
percussion caps, and mercurial ointment wherewith to oil the
locks and barrels of their guns and pistols.
A stray boa constrictor may also be found on these gorgeous
savannahs. At Virgin Bay I saw a very fine specimen, and
felt particularly relieved when I learned it was dead.
By the roadside I saw two panthers, called tigres or tigers.
They are the jaguars or ounces of South America, and are
quite numerous here. They are of a tawny color, breast and
belly almost white, while the body is variegated with black
oblong spots ; are from four to five feet in length, and im-
mensely powerful. They attack animals, but rarely man.
The tigre negro, or black tiger, is larger, fiercer, and no
doubt more powerful; it is of the same speciea^ but scarce.
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ESTATE OF eSN. CHAMOBBO. &1
There are monntaiD cats, varieties of the tiger species, con-
stantly roaming after fowl and other domestic attaches ; but
they prove annoyances only, and are not to be dreaded. The
coyote, or wild dog, is very scarce, though they exist in
the mountain districts. They are said to be descendants
of the Spanish bloodhounds, and are sometimes caught,
but rarely, or never, tamed or domesticated. The bat is said
by some to partake largely of the vampire. Many stories
are told of them, drawing strongly on the marveloas. They
are great enemies to horses, and worried mine much. He
was a good-looking pony when I bought him ; but a sorrier-
looking animal when sold, I never wish to nee. " Oh ! agates
and sassafras, stranger," said the sanguine Galifornian who
made the purchase, '' what a face ! It is made of patchwork !
He's the ugliest critter I ever see'd, and by thunder, I'll buy
him for a specimen ;" and so he did.
Id the stirrup again, and after a brisk dash, a clearing is
reached, in which an air of comfort reigns, strongly remhiding
me of some quiet nook in my own native land. It is a fine
old estate belonging to the family of Gen. Chamorro, late
President of Nicaragua. It commands a beautiful view of
the surrounding country, and ia just such a retreat as a states-
man or warrior would be likely to seek after retiring from the
cares of slate. Here the out.-ide world could be f< r^otten.
Chamorro, sprung from an ancient and aristocratic family, w&a
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5i NICARAGUA.
a prime mover in all public matters, and the Commander-in-
chief of the forces during the revolutiou of 1850, and other
wars since. He resided in the city of Granada. During my
stay there, the troops were regularly reviewed upon the plaza
by him, and instructed in military drills.
To an American eye, these troops presented a queer medley.
No plumes waving, no gay banners, no brilliant uniforms, but
a heterogeneous collection of shirts, bare legs, blanketed In-
dians from the hills of Matagalpa and Segovia, all bunded
together under their respective leaders, and as seemingly uncon-
scious of what was to be done, or to be expected, as they
were regardless of exposing their natural beauties. Standing
on the elevated places, and glancing along the line, reminded
one of a worm-fence ; here protruded a knee ; there squatted a
poor Indian, with bow in hand and arrows over his shoulders
or by his side. Poor fellow ! From the harangues of Rocha,
the minister of war, he heard abundance as to "human
rights," bat his experiences were only hardships, privations,
and ceaseless labors.
The veterans were as illy accoutred, and were armed with
condemned English muskets, about as dangerous at one end
as the other. Besides being bad shots, their muskets were
loaded with a cartridge six to seven inches long, so that the
chances for life for the poor fellow who carried it, seemed
to be increased in proportion to the fewer number of times he
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TROOPS — PAY — PUNISHMENTS. 58
had to fire. Upoa a march from place to place they pre-
Bented a strange appearance, as tbey came ap a hill, or went
plnuging throBgh a ditch. Still, thfCj are generally trae to
their leaders, and armed with their heavy seythe blades, are
dangerous opponents. The horror of these gentry are i.be
Colt's revolvers. They can witness a crack shot from a rifle
with tolerable composure, but cannot stand the consecutive
firing of these dread engines of war.
During these rcTolutions, resort is had to every means for
the enrolment of soldiers. The market-people are taken uu-
cereraonionsly froln their wares, the sailors from their bongoes,
the laboring classes from the ranchos and fields, and a general
embargo is laid upon every man capable of shouldering oi
lifting a musket. Those owning mules hide them, that their
property may not be sacrificed for their country's good.
Promises are made for payment, yet the issuing of State
scrip has bieen so extensively carried on, that credit is at a
low ebb. In perilous times, monopolies of tobacco, liquors,
&c., are sold to ^ the highest bidder; but not unfrequently,
should the war continue for a length of time, the State deems
the consideration money insufficient, and extra sums are
demanded.
Punishments are summarily inflicted in the army. One
morning in Managua, as I strolled to the Lake beach, I ob-
served an unusual crowd concentrating in the plaza. I asked
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
54 NIOARAOUA.
what was going on, and was told that some thieTes were to be
pnblielj punished. The soldiery, probabJy five hundred in
number, marshalled in due form, the files were opened, and
the GeneraMn-ehief appeared, heralded with trumpets and
drums, and supported by his staff. The criminals were
brought from the cuartel, their hands bound behind them,
and they were placed in a conspicuous position, to be seen by
their comrades. A superior officer, after much drum-beating,
read the charge and condemnation in a loud tone. Charge :
'' Stealing money and knives from certain persons."
Two or three soldiers, at a signal, stepped from the ranks,
and took off the shirts of the criminals. " Oround arms !" or
its equivalent, " Drop 1" " Draw ramrods I" and certain other
soldiers advanced. A temporary post was fixed firmly in the
ground, to which the thieves were tied alternately, and the
whippers commenced their exercise. The blows fell heavily,
and the cries of the poor fellows smote upon my heart.
Their crime merited punishment, yet the whip, in my opinion,
is not the proper instructor, whereby a moral and lasting
result is to be attained.
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CHAPTER VI.
mio ocHovoeo— oiD stritctdrk — adobi BiriLDnras: nran 8Tsair«TB—
OLD INDIGO PLAHTATIOR — HANDTITB — BOR8EFLR8B — PRICB8-HIAIT8 — B0R8B*
VAN8BIP — MOMOBACBO — ITS ABCBBT — GOLD BIBB — LAKB OB TBB BUVBIT—
VRUITS OB TBB B0AD-8IDB — DIRIOBO — OLD 8TATUB — LABDBARKB- COBB
B8TATB8 — ABCIBNT IBDIOO PLANTATIONS — F1BLD8 OP VOLCANIC BATTBB—
ORANADA — TBB ALBRTB — BU8ICAL ANALYSIS — SYBPATBT — TBB 8ALVS
BB6INA— TBB TBANSPARBNCT—STBANGB EPFBOT—HOBB AND A HAMBOCK.
Another 9tream, washing the sandy road ahead ; onr nag
scents the water, and reinvigorated, qnickens his pace. This
is the Rio Ochomogo, beyond which, on a hill-side, is a dilapi-
dated old adobe structare, square in form, with open sides and
tiled roof. It is used by the muleteers as a stopping-place,
and is surrounded with dense forest trees, finer, as a body, than
any we have yet seen. These adobe buildings will stand firm
in a tropical climate, for many, many years, though time
weighs heavily upon all things else. The rich earth producing
immense crops of weed) and spontaneous vegetation, greatly
(65)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
56 NICARAGUA.
\
changes the appearance of a ranch o in a very short time. A
vine creeps over a high wall in a week, and in damp corn era
a Tegetable mould will form so thick in two or three years, as
to warrant a stranger in supposing it the work of half a cen-
tury. I have read wonderful stories of Central America ; of
estimates formed and deductions drawn relative to the age of
a building, a temple, or a wall, from the immense mass of this
mould collected thereon A residence for a little time in this
country will satisfy any observing man that too much care can-
not be taken in weighing such a matter.
An old indigo plantation is before us, now vacant, though
the vats yet remain. The unsettled condition of the country
has caused this, together with the great amount of expense and
labor involved in raising so precious an article. Still on, is a
plain with calabash and forest trees margining the road, and
at intervals screening a lovely landscape from the view.
Beyond is the Indian village of Nandyme. Large outskirts
flank the town, and the generality of the houses are of medium
appearance. The land is more clayey, and at times slip[)ery
even during the dry season ; but in the wet, it is a break-
neck ride to trot a mule over this road. Though mounted
on a very fair animal, I met frequent mishaps in the way
of slidings, stumblings, and fallings. Horseflesh here is
yalued pretty much according to gait ; a fine trotter can be
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HORSES AND HORSEMANSmP — MULES. M
purchased for twenty to forty dollars ; while a pony that racks,
paces or canters, will command one hundred.
The Spaniard of Nicaragua is probably as much attached to
his steed, as was the Castilian of yore. Their animals possess
wind and bottom, and are remarkably strong, but slow ; and
few can excel in speed the fourth-rate horses of New York or
Philadelphia. I had heard much of the horsemanship of these
people, but saw little to boast of. The Nicaraguan can '' stick^'
to a horse well enough, but there is many a country lad of
fifteen with us who can beat him.
For endurance, these horses are unexcelled ; they are smnll,
compact and reliable, but a great majority of them sprung in
the knees, rendering them unsafe as hackneys. The mules are
well-bred, and preserve their gait better than the horses ; they
are small and can safely be trusted with the rein over the
craggiest or most slippery camino real. The precision of his
step in descending a hill-side is wonderful. Where no man
could walk without slipping, the mule jogs easily along, his
head bent down, and his long ears flapping to and fro, a
perfect picture of easy carelessness. His foot once planted,
give him the rein and trust to him. He lives upon scanty
allowance, braves all weathers, endures any amount of
privations, sleeps well, works well, and is ready for his burden
and his journey at the appointed hour. The cruel muleteer
spurs him up with a spike, fixed in the end of a long spear.
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58 NIQARAQUA.
On our left rises the defunct Tolcano of Momobaeho, lined
with dark masses of monld-covered lava ; its side bare of trees,
and exposing a ti^emendons orifice. There is said to be a
small lake on its side, and one on its summit, each studded
with gold fish. The ascent of this volcano, from a distance
seems gradual and easy, but is found on trial to be almost im-
practicable. In 1849, a few Americans tried it, and after
much toil and severe privations, planted the "Stars and
stripes" upon its very summit. On the inland side, years
past, it is said, was a valuable gold mine, yielding bountifully ;
but during a volcanic eruption it was buried, and so remains.
I was told by old inhabitants, that Momobacho formerly
had but one peak ; now there are two points of elevation, joined
by an intervening mass. The Lake on its summit is said to
be a quarter of a mile long and half a mile wide. Momo*
bacho looms grandly up, and can be seen in clear weather
even from the Jalteva of Oranada.
The country through which our road leads us becomes more
rolling, and huts, corn-fields, plantain and mango groves in-
crease. Palm and orange trees appear in qnick succession.
The lemon fills the air with its fragrance ; fruits of various
descriptions hang from the overladen boughs ; while the tall
cocoa, running spirelike into the blue ether, is relieved by
floating clouds.
Diriomo, an Indian pueblo, lies three leagues from Oranada.
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DIBIOMO — QRANADA AOAIN. 59
It Is a pretty spot : its cane hots with thatched roofs peer
ont from amid* the gracefal though dense foliage of the orange
and banana trees, while on either side extends a lot of ground
sufficient to afford fruits and vegetables for the entire family.
Near by stands a stone figure, browned with age and neglect,
probably used as a boundary between municipalities. These
landmarks are religiously respected ; and as a general thing, the
definition of " meum and teum" is understood and appreciated,
though if we credit the reports of travelers, thefts end rob-
beries here are of frequent occurrence.
Com estates are principally relied on now, though from
the remains of indigo plantations adjoining Oranada, con-
siderable quantities of this article must have been produced at
a former period. The native article of Nicaragua is very valu-
able, and commands a hfgh price. It is generally purchased
by foreign merchants, at the annual fair of San Miguel,
and forwarded to Europe. Again we meet vast fields of
volcanic matter ; in some places pulverized and yielding, in
others, loose, hard, and rolling nnder our horse's feet
We strike the road entering into the plaza of Oranada at
an early evening hoar, and answer the challenge of the stirring
and watchful sentinels. The voices of the people seem
strange, comparing somewhat with a parrot's notes. The
tones are drawn out or prolonged, and the word of three syl-
lables has a finale not pleasing to the ear. The sentry's
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60* NICARAGUA.
**alert< ," or cry, rings distinctly on the air, ar.d is as musical
aM the chirp of the mocking-bird in the moonlit eves of a
nor; hern clime. It is composed of notes designated in melodic
onkr, as the third, the eighth, and the fifth of the common
m ijor chord. There seems to exist a certain chain of bym-
pothj between people of the same caste, in widely separated
climes. Recall to memory the old cry of the watchman in oar
country villages of the United States. When the snow lay
clustering upon the roof-tops, and mantled all nature with ita
spotless shroud, how clear, cheerful, and distinct did the cry
of the patrol break upon the ear, ** Ten," or " Twelve o'clock I*'
Analyze it ; it commences on the fifth, ascending to the tenth,
or third above the octave, and ends on the eighth of the com-
mon mnjor chord. And so the rosy strawberry woman at the
door, basket in hand, for whose song the maid stops to listen.
You hear her silvery tones pervading your sanctum, " Straw-
ber-riesl" It commences on the key note, and the last syl-
lable ends with crescendo, and diminuendo on its octave or
eighth. Tlie " attenta la guardia," of the Italian sentinel has
its peculiar sweetness ; and we might instance a variety of
others, all logically leading us to a sympathetic affinity between
such public characters in every clime.
** Alerte" was always grateful to my ears; it was indefinite,
not conclusive; swinging in my hammock, puffing a native
cigar, it was an ever etiding to begin again, an expectation of a
resolution never resolved.
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THE SALVE REGINA — HOME AND A HAMMOCK. 61
The heavy buzzards slept cozily on the tiled roofs of La
Mercedes, as I threw oflF my philosophical mantle, and leaving
musical matters at home, attracted by sweet sounds, I strolled
far down the street. Approaching, I found several musicians
accompanied by their violins, chanting the beautiful ** Salvo
Regina." An hombre carried a transparency, upon which was
rudely limned the image of the infant Saviour resting in the
Virgin's lap. At the door of the house before which they
stood, were men, women, and children, kneeling and devoutly
counting their rosaries. A mother raising her little child
toward the imaged Creator, muttered a prayer in unison with
the common melody, and quietly dropped a tribute into the
hand of a collector who accompanied them. This custom is
general, and shows how strongly exist the elements of music
in this strange, eventful, but neglected land. A spirit of
harmony pervades all nature, and a master's touch would educe
from discord, strife, and jealousies, twin-born love, peace and
good- will toward man.
I turned homeward, threw myself into a hammock, and ilew
out the light ; the world outside grew dimmer and dimmer,
images and fancies less distinct; memories became confused,
and the pall of Somnns gathered heavily over my senses.
Good-night to all. The cool air took possession of my room,
and I sank into temporary oblivion.
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CHAPTER VII.
TBI H30SB8 OF HICARAODA — SIZB — APPBARARCB — AD0BB8 — BUB— PORM^
MATBRIAL— CBMBBT — WBLL8 — WATBR — ^IfONBT, TALUB OP — TRADB — BOlf-
OOB8 — HATIOHAL YRSSKLS — TBB 0RU8 AND DIRBCTOR STBAMERS — MAXBRRS
AMD CUSTOMS — BBLPBT OP LA MBRCBDBS — TBB 8BARP8B00TBR — BIB DBATB
— SAHDOTAL'S BSTATB — IBDIOO PLABTATIOR — TBB LAKB — ORARORS AHD
MABOOBS— CORK — 8ACATB — PIBB-APPLB8 — JOCOTBS — A BBAUTIPUL RSTATB
^~C0n — IBTBMPBBABOB — TIRTUBS— CLOTBS — SOCKS — B1CKRBS8 — PBT8I0
ABD LAW.
The edifices of Nicaragua merit more than a paBsing notice ;
to me thej were entirely novel ; the architecture, though p<is-
sessiiig its own peculiar character, partakes of the Moresque.
They are built round a hollow square, and are only of one
st( ry in height, as eUewhere observed. The tiled roofs sloping
to the street, are inwardly supported by posts, sometimes
of polished iron, mahogany or other wood. At the inside
corners of the roof, gutters are formed for coi ducting the rain
water into tauks, pkiced iu ihe yard. This is by far the best
(62)
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MIQARAOUA HOUSia. 63
9kgxkB, to be had !n the conntry. The apartments open apoii this
hollow- patio, and are lighted bj large barred- windows, which
project, and in which two or three persons may sit and chat rery
cosily. Entirely independent of the main house, is the kitchen,
which adjoins the stable. Neither of these are enclosed, and
the fodder, com, and manure, lie in threatening proximity to
the comestibles preparing for the table. The houses are built
of adobes. These are formed into blocks about twenty-two
inches long, nine thick, and nine wide, made of a tenacious
earth or clay, mixed with fine reeds, tough grass, or straw,
which possesses durability against the tropical rains and storms.
Some of the poorer houses thus constructed, are considered
entirely finished ; but those of the wealthier classes are plastered
with a close mould, resembling a clayey-marl, soft and yield-
ing, which, upon receiving several coats of white paint, re-
sembles marble. I can describe it, perhaps, more satisfactorily,
by calling it mineral- mortar. Such a cement was discovered
by the conquerors of Pern. Many of the dwellings in the latter
country seem to have been constructed without cement ; and
therefore it has been contended by some writers, that mortar,
or cement of any kind, was unknown to them. But such a
mould as above described, mixed with lime, may sometimes
be found filling up the interstices of the granite, brick, or
porphyry structnres; and in others, where the blocks fitted
precisely, and left no vacancy for this coarser material, the eye
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64 NICARAGUA.
of the antiquary detects a fine glue, bituminous in its character,
as hard as the rock itself. Humboldt, who analyzed the
cement of the ancient structures at Cannar, s&ys that it is a
true mortar, formed of a mixture of pebbles and a clayey-
marl ; and Father Velasco is in raptures with "an almost im-
perceptible cement," made of lime and a bituminous substance
resembling glue, which incorporated stones so as to hold them
firmly together, like one solid mass, leaving nothing visible to
the eye of the common observer. This glutinous composition,
mixed with pebbles, was used for macadamized roads, much
prized by the Incas, as hard and almost as smooth as marble.
The houses differ as much in appearance as in size. Many
of them are at least seventy feet front, and more, and probably
one hundred and fifty feet deep. Wells, now almost dry, are
found ill the courts, of immense depths. The one in the yard of
the house I re^^ided in, was at least one hundred feet deep, and I
have seen others exceeding this. Whether they were of yore
ringed with the windlass, I could not determine, yet I found
no notches in the well- wall to justify any such belief; and I
have always seen a rope used, which was drawn up and
lowered by hand. Water, as a beverage, is an extra in every
town in the State. It is brought from the Lake by the mucha-
chns, in large jars, who indeed move very gracefully
alonp:, hearing their cantaros and tinajns upon their heads.
The price for a certain number of these daily, is ten cents»
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CURRENCY AND TRADE. 65
or probably twenty-five cents per week. Two dimes are equal
to twenty-five cents, as in the Southern States of America ;
and at times American gold can be purchased, reckoning eight
dimes to the dollar. This is the currency from the Lake to
the Pacific, but not at Oreytown or San Juan del Norte.
Merchants from the interior purchasing from, or trading with
those at Greytown, stipulate the currency to be used, and thus
avoid breaches of contract and other annoying mishaps.
Trade is carried on in bongos, a rude boat, made out of a
large log; though small-sized canal boats have been built,
which are not safer or swifter, but are more capacious. Lake
Nicaragua is far from being a placid sheet of water. Squalls,
violent and sudden, sweep from Ometepec's heights, and for a
moment every thing is in confusion. I have been in a bongo,
during one of these changes, and have seen two water-spouts,
each of which threatened to engulf us. The natives are swim-
mers — not sailors ; their oars are not long, but have only small
paddles at the extremities, instead of the usual oar-blades, so
requisite for speed and power. Yet the progress made against
tide with such aids, is at times very remarkable. There are
also sailing bongos, but these are not managed with skill;
and whenever the mariners find that safety depends upon ** light-
ening" their crafts, they plunge overboard, and cling and swim
alternately, till the elements have calmed. The first steam-
boat which was introduced upon the waters of Nicaragua, was
m 5
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4tt Nl&AftA<}tTA.
Vb» <ytm) «li% WiA wrecked im iht Matteea HiiplAi. *nA
fifecond was the Director, and tlie Company owning it, fiuccfefedcfl
In warping faet over the Rapids. Subsequently it plied npon
the Lake, and tor years was tlie sole transport for the passen-
gers from San Cartes to Tirgta Bay. He incTea^e of the
ll>nsine8S of the Transit Company, howerer, induced the es-
p^ittation from New York of th« *" Central America,* and
other steam tessels.
Bat to retoni. The bufMiiDgs ate t^omtot1:iMe, and rehire
«eiliiig« imly t6 reftder titem nH that ebuld )ye desii^ as rt-
ireats fH>ft thfe wiift «r «m. They are the toolest 1 tver !!ted
ih) Wliile one atoidsthat laboiminafole nni^anee, the ^mhing
^p flights of Steps. The wood-wcwk Is stanch^, etery honse
being % fortress per se, though not In every instance tmpet-
tlOQs to a musket Imll, for the t»isa in which t1i« Ameriesti
minister i^i^ded, while in Iieoii, had been tidied by those
1^ tiie revolutionists a short lime prior to his arrival. In tlie
tttriy part of the present revolution, thib belfty of the ehntdh
Df La Mercedes was nsed fay a celebrated sharpshooter, of
Chamorro, who from this eyrie singled t>nt, ad libitvM, the
Americans encamped in the suburbs of the tity. A diversion
havmg been made, however, by the foreeft under (Jeneral
Mnfiojs, for the 'Og^ensibh purpose of intercepting a purty con-
veying powder and pwri^ons tb the town, tbe antagonists
met suddenly *on neutral ground ; and tire wretdi who hod been
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XHX SHABPSHOOtttp— MXBOVAL'S E8TATS. Ct
MBUsiinrtitDg hit friemh md couotryiBtn, Ml, piereed witk
avenging ballets. His faneral wm solemniced with all the
{K>ii)p of the choTch — tlie army attended "en masse," and the
deepest somow pervaded the city. The death of this ootorioas
villaia brought matters to a climax; battle sacceeded battk^
until General Mafioz was shot at Masaya^ with other brave
fellows. Theo followed Chamorro's death, and a new
regime.
Pasaaig <n^ of the pbaa, upon the Sooth* is a good road
<OT«r a roUiBg wmi gradually ascendiog coaatry ; a miie's ride
Mnga yoa to « gate. BismoiiDt J A lane leads to a 'caaa
perched «n a beautifid emiiieace, camoiaodtng « riew <^ the
Lake, Granada^ and the cooatry for maaj miles arocmd. U m
Sandoval's estate, an old indigo plantation. The vats are diy,
but yet remain in good order. From the mansion in fronts
an seen fields of Inxoiiant, wild indigo. Upon the react
is a deep ravine, leadmg to level ground which margins the
Lake. We descend slowly. Here, stretch beautiful lemon
groves ; there, nod the grateful orange trees, filling the air with
auffocatnig fragrance, while the arcihed mangoes, heavy with
golden fimit, complete aa sweet a |ttcUire as the heart of the
most romantic could desire. Fields of corn are rustling be«
yond. The fodder, or sacate, is bundled up and taken on
males tc the city« wtiere a dune is charged lor a small sheaf.
Digitized by VjiOOQIC
68 laCA&AQUA.
This fodder, under certain circamstances, is the best crop,
as it commands a good price and ready sale.
Pine-apples and other fruits are abundant, the white and
the yellow; I must not overlook the jocote, a species of
apricot, without its sweetness. It is peculiar in flavor, and the
taste is to be acquired ; for I could not eat one at first, but
after a time always had my pockets full. They are sold at five
cents per small basket The beautiful estate alluded to I
could have purchased for about twelve hundred dollars. There
were three hundred acres, well cultivated, with good bam and
other buildings, indigo vats included. But there was one mis-
fortune — securing operatives to till it regularly, for natives are
not always to be depended upon. Their wages are only ten
cents per day, and after they have received a dollar or two,
great difficulty is experienced in inducing them to remain.
Remember, a piece of cheese, a lump of brown sugar, and a
corn-cake compose the larder of these hombres ; and what a
pile a dollar would purchase 1 The vice of intemperance is not
indigenous. It is an imported article ; and a shame it is, that
on such soil should have been sown the corses of wine-bibbing,
with so many other unmanly vices, and that so few of the virtues
have as yet been introduced. I do not believe the race to be
entirely lost, as some others profess to do. I have found much
talent, and many virtues there — much good old-fashioned
common sense, and have experienced many kindnesses from
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OLOTHINQ, PHTSiq, AND LAW. 69
those strangers to me ; and where a single good seed has takea
root, I will not condemn a nation for private wrongs or private
prejudices.
There can be fonnd in Qranada, almost every thing desired.
Clothes are dearer than in the United States. Cloths at a
very moderate figure, looser in the web than ours, having
been manufactured expressly for this market, and are both
cooler and more elastic. Socks, shirtings, &c., are plentiful,
but far from cheap. Medicines are dear, fruits cheap. Law-
yers are abundant, and must be well and frequently fee'd. This
is a co-relative of other civilized nations ; and those who go
often to the Forum will learn, at least, many of the ways, if at
all attentive and cute, by which living is made easy in a few
lessons.
As a general thing, physic is not in much repute, save in
slight cases of fever, cold, and other minor diseases. Travelers
will eat and drink immoderately, or expose themselves at
night or mid-day, either of which are equally injudicious;
they then upbraid the climate, and neglect to call folly by
its right name; but not to do that would be consistent,
and inconsistency consists in being consistent so far as affects
our desires or appetites. Then we can afford to grumble and
revile a country, generous in its pleasures, and gentle in re-
proofs. Were foreigners to care for themselves and guard
against changes and seasons as they do when at home, a resi*
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
to KXOA&AaOiL.
deooe fai Niearagna wwM prove beneficial to many who are
sow feeding yoaag apotbecai'ies, and who are emptying box
after box of some patent vegetable vermifnge, or new-fangled
ehxir^ which roba as of the little stomach that fast living at
home leaves many of ua at thirty years of age.
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CHAPTER VIII.
mauoious vnnrAis—n, jamm* bav^-hiav MVAmri »■ i.0TOLA-*v»Amat
OF mm TiB«I»-^99 OOBPVf-^ST. rSTIE AMD THI HQXT KXT8— IVA«K8— »
SAITTA THBBBSA— COCHIVIAL PLAHTATIOVS— MODS OF OVLTUBB AMD PBIPA-
BATIOH OF IT FOR MARKIT— C0FF»~IT8 CULTiyATIOV—SnOAB^IirDiao^
AMOUKT OF ■ABTBST-F.TOBAOCO-i^AlfOinn BAIMlh— FBOF U l ■ qgHPOWDim
AHQ OT«BB aOTSBBXBVT ]f01IOPOLIBS^ABTICl.B8 OF MAVUFAOTUBI—AETIF-
lOBBS IM SOLD AMD 8ILYBB— 0PP08ITB OBAHADA— CATTLB BSTATlg^
OATCRIirO OATTLB---TIU PBTA-RUI/A—FIOS AMD OLITBI — ^A HUm
It would b« m ftlmoft hop«l«89 task to properly deacribt
the manj religioot bstiT^a of tbe people of this, qonntiy.
I entered aomo of the. ^ oeeaaiona." however, iu mj Di»ry,
whieh were new to tte» and n%j be of iQterest to the reader.
St. Itf^ or Si Jeves, it the petron seiat of the Americs^
ee alio of Oallicie» in Spain ; and oa thii day, July 26th, all
the shops are closed. He drove oat the Moors from Qallicia,
tradition says, appearing on a white horse before the armies
of the ChristUa* Tba celebration of (be feast of San Ignv
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72 NIOARAGUA.
tias de Loyola, the foander of the Jesait Order, is npon the
30th day of July. The altar is dressed with artificial flowers,
and on this the image of the founder is placed. August 13th is
the celebration of the Transit of the Virgin. In every house an
altar is erected in the sala or parlor, and recitations are per-
formed from three to four in the afternoon. Upon a cushion,
covered with gold lace and spangles, lies the image of the
dead Virgin. She is clothed in gold and spangles ; prayers
are recited to her before the image, and two waxen candles
are kept burning, in silver candlesticks, though sometimes
brass or glass is used. This altar is to be illuminated for
fifteen successive nights ; and in addition to the prayers already
named, others are said every night at eight o'clock.
The Corpus, which takes place in June, is, however, the most
remarkable, and of course all business is suspended. About
ten in the morning, a cavalcade moves from the church. A
troop of military, with funereal measure, leads the way, who
are followed by six girls, fancifully dressed, bearing large
wax candles, and accompanied by the " big drum," borne on
the back of a grotesquely-accoutred Indian, and beaten by
two others. Then follow men with wooden platforms on
their shoulders, on which are images of saints. Then, repre-
sentations of beatified cardinals and bishops, escorted by
angels with spread wings. Then, an immense statue of St
Peter, supported on both sides by angels, bearing the holy
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OOCHfNEAL PLANTATIONS. 73
keys.. Then other images in snccession precede the Host,
which is carried under a gorgeous canopy, accompanied
by the bishop and clergy. Other groups still follow; the
military bringing up the rear. Passing round the plaza, the
procession stops at every corner, where altars are erected,
covered with artificial flowers, wax candles, and looking-
glasses, while the spectators kneel on either side. Sky-rockets
signal the setting out from and return to the church, and the
houses by which the Host passes are bung with red silk or
cloth. As in all Spanish and Catholic countries, images are
much venerated. At Viejo, near Leon, is one of the Virgin,
which is visited on a particular day in February. It is
traditioned as being the gift of the Immaculate Virgin, Santa
Theresa.
We had intended to add a few more particulars relative to
the productions of this State, as well as to notice those of
States adjoining, for the products of all are similar. The
Dopaleras, or cochineal plantations of Nicaragua, have dwindled
into insignificance; but there are still small tracts in many
haciendas which are given to the cultivation of this article.
A piece of ground is carefully fenced in with parallel rows
of prickly pear, the cactus cochinillifer, oV common Indian fig.
Immediately after the rains have ceased, the cactus, an insect,
is sown upon the plant. Twelve of these are collected with
a feather, from the parent, enclosed all together in a small
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t4 moAJumA.
bair of tbe vaist le«t left <^iv and pfauied with % ttioni W
the kef of the eectns. Serea or eigtit bage art pkced oi
different leavea of the same plant. la a short time the ia*^
sects begin to breed in the bags, and the jonng oaea erawl
Ottt apon the plant As thej grow, thej gradaallj coTer thenb-
selTea witU a mantle of white paste, which protects them from
the weather, and ia the eonraa of thiea montha thejr are lea^
for gathering; Thia is d<me hj scraping the leaf; and after
n soficient nnmber have been resenred for seed^ the rest art
eithw placed npon tins in a large oren, or thrown into hoi
water. When dried, they assome the appeamnee of smalt
grains, and are readjr for market A aeeond crop is then
nowtt, and in three months another harveat is reaped, after
which the seed is preserved, by coveriDg the plant till the
raittj season is passed. Afber four or five years, from the
great qaantity of nonrishment extracted by theee insects, the
eactas decays. It is then rooted np^ and a new plant sttQ«
ceeda. The fenmle of thia insect ia the tme cochineal, thongh
there are two other species in the market Dried, ponnded,
and prepared, it is sold nnder the name of carmine.
Coffee is caltivated to no Terj great extent thongh the
crop of Onatemala haa produced one million of dollars in a
single year. If the land be properly drained, the coifee-tree
lives to an old age. It begins to bear at three years, and is
in its prime at seven. At five, the top branchea act pruned
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OULTTVAXIOS 01 OOFFES. %ji
off. Every branch droops downward. In Braanl, the tree
bears two crops annually : the largest in spring, the smallest
in falL The first is picked when the berry is red ; the second,
generally small, is allowed to remain nntil fully dry and ripe.
This crop cored in the hosk is very superior in quality^ and
is called ''pearl coffee," the blossom bemg small and tender.
It remains three or four days on the tree. If the weather be
warm and showery during these few days, the crop is sare,
but if cool at nighty it often fails. The berry being carried
home, is taken to the millhouse. The mill consists of three
• small rollers. The berry is put into a hopper, and a con*
atant stream of water falls on the rollers during the time
the mill is in operation. By this process the outside hull is
taken off and separated from the berry. The coffee falls into
a brick tank, where, after being washed and perfectly cleaned,
it is pat away, and covered with tile or brick raised in the
centre for the water to drain. It is then taken to the cnriDg-
loft, where it is turned four times per day» nntil the hull is
dry and ^isp. When it is fanned, the inside hull comes ofl^
and the berry is ready for market.
The principal source of the early prosperity of Quatemala
was the cultivation of cocoa, which was produced in immense
quantities, and of superior quality. The province of Nicara-
gua is said to have exclusively supplied San Salvador and
Comayagua. About the beginning of the seventeenth century,
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?6 NIOARAGUA.
howeyer, the shores of Central America were deyastated by
the repeated incursions of the Buccaneers, who massacred the
inhabitants, destroyed the plantations, and compelled the
proprietors to seek shelter in the interior. This, together
with the excessive duties imposed hy the Spanish government^
and the expense and difficulties of land carriage, has caused a
Yast diminution in the production of the article.
The cultivation of sugar shared the same fate, as also indigo,
notwithstanding their acknowledged superior qualities. During
the interval from 1790 to 1818 inclusive, the Central Ameri-
can States produced 13,346,640 pounds of sugar; and it will
be borne in mind that in 1791-2-3, alone, 3,304,250 pounds
were harvested. Cochineal, the cultivation of which was un-
known till 1821, yields an immense revenue. Guatemala pro-
duces larger amounts than any other State in the Confedera-
tion, reaching, in 1826, to 90,000 pounds.
Tobacco is raised, but little except for home consumption ;
though in San Salvador 70,000 pounds have been exported in
a single year, and from 80,000 to 100,000 from Honduras.
The clear profit to the nation, from 1815 to 1819 inclusive,
was $1,594,447.
Cotton is raised in great quantities, and is superior in
quality, supplying home wants, and also leaving a margin for
exportation to the provinces of Mexico.
Gunpowder, saltpetre, tobacco, lead, shot, and liquors, are
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CATTLE ESTATES. 77
all gOYernment monopolies. Hats, shoes, saddlery, jewelry,
fancy articles, earthenware, and pottery, are manufactured,
though not to a very great extent. The artificers in gold and
silver in Nicaragua are extremely ingenious and skillful, and
exhibit great taste and experience in the manufacture of
ornaments.
A visit to the cattle estates, on the opposite shore of the
Lake from Granada, will richly repay the traveler. Over the
fine, fertile pasture lands of a single hacienda, roam a thousand
cattle, and an equal number of horses and mules, though gen-
erally inferior in quality. When a sale has been effected, the
major-domo summons his men to *' lazo" the chosen stock.
The horses are saddled, and one end of the lazo — made of
twisted thongs of hide — is bound round the tail of each horse,
care being first taken to prevent the flesh from becoming lace-
rated by subsequent friction. The rider gathers the loose end
of the cord in his hand. He approaches the bull, who, finding
himself singled out, starts away at full speed, byt the horse,
accustomed to the game, runs as though aware of every wind-
ing the bull may make. Coming within the desired distance,
the lazo is whirled with great dexterity over the bull's horns,
and on the instant the horse wheels, and the bull, starting
rapidly off, is thus thrown upon his haunches. Should he
prove fractious, he is turned on his back and firmly tied. At
times, however, the enraged bull, driven to extremities, lowers
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T8 mouuLoiuL
hii Imd, « ibovgli mware of the objeet d his fmrnRT, and
retreats to a close place, from whence suddeolj wheeling he
makes battle. These estates are immense, and verj frequentlj
the cattle and horses exceed the number here given, though
daring the few past years every thiag has shared the same
eventfal fate — neglect
Among the countless fmits is ooe I have never seen de-
scribed, bat which is bj no means common ; and whj it should
ttot be mora exteasivdjr cultivated, I cannot imagiaa. It is
oailed the peta-luiija. It grows upon a bush about the aiao
of the piM-apple pteat The fhiit is aearly as large as an
ordiaary rota-baga tunip, in form like the strawberry, haviog
a complete oovenng of leayes or folds, which overlap each
other like the diffSerent pieces of a coat ci mail It is « deep
carmine in color, fall of small, black, round seeds, when out
open. The meat of the fruit is sweet and aoft^ aad in taste
resembles the flavor of the raspberry. When sliced, sugared,
«nd baked with wine, it is extremely luscious. It is h^ ia
great esteem, though I never met with it but once during mjr
«(tay in the country, and this was at Granada.
Figs and olives would flourish here to perfecti^Mi, as well as
the grape ; and there is no reason why wines should not be
mannfftctured fully equal to the superior article of Peru and
Chili. The first olive was carried firom Andalusia to Peru in
15G0, by Aatonio de Ribera, of Lima. The jocotes, referred
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nasy OLiYss, and jocotes. *19
to amoD^ the different fraits, are said by writers generally to
be a species of plam, bnt I rather class it as an olive in
color, ipeat, textnre, size, and in some instances in similarity
of taste. Oar 'present limits will not permit us more extended
latitude amid the fruits and productions, which subject we
leave for the present with regret.
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CHAPTER IX.
Vam MALACOAt — CULTITATIOV OF THE CAOAO — DBflCBIPTIOV OF A OACAO VgTATS
— AH VOLT FMBURB 0UT8IDI GRAHADA — A SHOCK OF AH BARTHQUAKE —
gPBCULATIOHS IH CASH OF BHBRGBIICT — LAKH POTO — ^DBLIOHTFCL JAUHT
— A LAKH COHO — A CUP OF TIBTB — ITS USB — PRODUCTIONS OF THB COURTRT
—CIGARS — HAIZB — AOCARDIBNTB — BFFECTS OF ROT TO BE HI8TAKBN—
WHEAT — MINERALS — GOLD, SILTBR, AND COPPER MINES OF DEPILTA— THB
OHONTALBS MINING DISTRICTS — MATAGALPA — PATNTBR — THB CENTRAL
STATES — THEIR MINES — ACCOUNT OF HONDURAS AND SAN SALVADOR — COSTA
BICA-— COAL — WANT OF MACHINBRT, MEANS, AND ENTBRPRI8B.
Five miles from Granada is a cacao estate known as '' The
Malaccas." The ride from the city is over a level country,
studded with white cacti and flowering shrubs. This planta-
tion may be considered a fair sample of that which proper
culture and industry may accomplish. The cacao is cultivated
extensively, but is very rarely exported. That of this State is
considered very superior, and is worth three times the price
of that raised at Guyaquil. The tree is delicate, and requires
(80)
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DESCBIPTION OF A CAOAO ESTAXB. 81
great attention, though it repays every expense lavished upon
it. It bears in seven years, produces two crops annually, and
its yield is perfect in its fifteenth season. It grows to the
height of twenty feet, its leaves are large and pointed, and it
bears a small red flower. The pod contains about fifty beans.
The shoots are planted fourteen feet apart, and are shaded by
the plantain and the coral tree; the latter is called ''The
Mother of the Cacao," and shields the nursling from the glow-
ing sun-rays. The cacao drops its bright crimson leaves
about the beginning of April. It is indigenous ; one laborer
will attend one thousand trees, which will yield an annual
income of three hundred dollars. Its beans are in circulation
in the absence of smaller pieces of money than the media, and
are of the value of one cent. A visit to the Malaccas is full
of information. Its graveled roads are margined with mango
groves, laden with golden fruit; and being perfectly free
from weeds or underbrush, resemble a public square in Phila*
delphia.
Beyond the limits of Granada, upon the right, there is a
large chasm, where a bridge spans the Camino real. It is
the result of an eruption of the volcano of Masaya, in 1529,
more of which we will give in another place. Your head
grows giddy as you stand on its brink, gazing far down the
dark abyss. The stones thrown within this yawning gulf
bounded from crag to crag, while from far below came the
6
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fcfaoei, fiuiit Uki tuaiMf till thej ceMed. I ffhoold Judge
iU width to be 4^om twelve to fifteeo feet, end probebly one
l^dred yards or more io length.
Que e?«, while lying {o mj bemvocj^, end ebont Binking
}9to e pl^Ment domber, I felt fnyself bempieg egeinat vy
l»eighbor, fwd toimedf thinking be desired to ettreet my fit-
t(99tion. Agun, while talking, the motion wa« repeated.
Matnally we sprang for the candle. Hearing a bnstle in the
ftreet, we opened the door, to find the inhabitants abroad,
|H>d expecting a grapd crash. Qere was a dilemma. SeSoritaa
|a distrfss, with diBheyelled hair and terrified appearance,
ipppaling for aid, and yet nope cpnld b# rendered, Tbf
pbocks, however, soon ceased, and we gladly reti^raed tQ oar
Jiainmocks.
About the same distance from the city, a fpad winde throngb
ff fprest pf trees of most beautiful symmetry, and arched grovef
^f mango, to an eminence visible through a cluster of palm^
whence the path leads to an indefinite conclusion, ^he ^yf
pannot pierc^ the heavy ^hroud of dense foliage al|ead or on
f itber hand. Carefully our horses tread this shelying inclina?
|ipn, reminding one of " Old PutpamV ridipg scene ii| the
pelo-drama. The loose stones, becoming detach^ under the
horse's feet, rattle down the precipice to the right. TTe hear
f splash ; another moment, and the gorgeous Ijake f oyo bi^rst^
ppon 09, folly eqoaling tbo$e of the fairy tale9 in appearance*
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THB BXAXnnTUL lAXB POYO. 83
This sheet of water is oblong, f^at three miles in length by
two in width, the banks inclining around it The air is heavy
with the incense of countless flowers, mingled with the orange
and lemoQy while playi&g over oor heads are gaj-wioged
parrots, paroquets, and the really magnificent macaw. Tba
water is very clear, and impregnated with sulphur. Not a
hut is to be seen. It has an exit in a small stream on the left
border, and is an inviting solitude for a bath.
The lake is full of gold fish, which we can see distinctly
finning along, their gleaming scales relieved by the white
•andy bottom. Oh, what a paradise is here before us ! As
fair a picture as e'er was tinted on an easel. There, rise soft
hills, voluptuously falling to the water's edge, and in the ascent
flowing to a graceful height, margining a sheet of wondrous
beauty. The whispering leaves breathe happiness ; the birds
skimming the rippling-basih seem ignorant of the world be-
yond, and wing close to us, as though they feel we are
strangers, and come to welcome us to their sweet retreat
Sach is Lake Poyo, calm, clear, truly beautiful — the em-
bodiment, the realization of Bulwer's ^Lake of Como,"
where every floating cloudlet hath its mirror, and every wind
hies to kiss its surface. I gaze back as I mount into the
saddle, reluctant to quit it; and now, seen through an interval
of time, I still deem it one of the loveliest of my foreign
memcNies.
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84 NICARAGUA.
We breast the hill and gain the plain, turn through another
path to a glade of brown -leaved trees, and reach a rancho
embowered in a quiet, cosy niche, removed from the glare
of the angry snn. Here, on either side, are pine-apples
in abundance. The bush whereon thej grow is only about
four feet high, guarded by sharp leaves, which punish a hasty
intrusion. A cup of tiste is prepared for us, and we wander
back to the house. Tiste is composed of roasted or parched
corn, ground sugar, and cacao, and is rolled in long sticks like
pomatum. This is carried about by the marineros and travel-
ers ; for by putting it into a tin cup, adding water, and stirring
with a spoon, a delicious and cool beverage is instantly at
hand. In cases of dysentery it is very beneficial ; and this,
with the milk of the young cocoa-nut, is generally used, and
found highly beneficiaL
We may now notice more particularly some of the produc-
tions of Nicaragua. Coffee has been but little cultivated,
though in Costa Kica it fohns a prominent source of wealthy
and the return has been as high as one million dollars per
annum ; the necessary expenses for labor being but nominal-*
from a dime to two dimes per day. Indigo has also been
neglected lately. The plant is said to be indigenous, though
there is a cultivated species, and the quality is unsurpassed.
Tobacco is cultivated ; and that which is raised upon
Ometepec, in Lake Nicaragua, is said to rival fully the
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8UOAR-0ANE AND AGUARDIENTE. 85
Havana, thoagh I was not very fayorablj impressed npon mj
arrival, with either the make or flavor of their cigars. I
foand them looselj rolled, and the tobacco very imperfectly
cared ; bat " homeward-bound" Californians have taaght the
natives how a better article can be manafactared. Prime
cigarros can now be purchased, thoagh at advanced rates.
Maize floarishes very abandantly.
The native species of sngar-cane is very different from that
cultivated elsewhere. It contains more saccharine matter.
Two crops are grown annually, and it requires replanting
only once in fourteen years. From this is manufactured the
great drink of the country, " aguardiente," which is strong as
Hercules, and like lightning in its effect. If you desire to
have a friendly tipple upon it, there is no mistaking your
position for the morrow. You are certain to be ** tight"
enough^ and equally certain that your friend will be as
" oblivions" as yourself.
Cotton is raised to a considerable extent, but is generally
manufactured for home consumption. Some years past it
formed an article of export. Rice is also cultivated, but not
exported. Wheat is grown in the Segovia district, where
the climate resembles that of the Middle States of America.
These are the principal articles of value, though it possesses
an enormous wealth of cabinet and dye-woods, mines of
precious metals, rivers of considerable extent, whose banks
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9§ VmAAJLGiVA.
reqaire only willing arms ta reclaim them frotn entire neglect |
and I eannot belie?e that the far-seeingy thriftj Americaft who
has partially scanned thin hitherto sealed book, will not refer
to some of its bright pages when he shall have returned to hi*
home, and ere many years shall have circled, I predict that
many listeners to his strange truths will emigrate to this rude
Eden, prepared for labor. Its minerale are gold, siWer^
copper, and iron ; lead, nearly yirginal, hae been found, fully
ninety per cent., and the residue silver. The district of Sego-
via is famed for its mineral wealth. Rich washings havw
been worked by the Indians at Matagalpa^ as also eopper
mines, which latter yield from thirty-three to forty per sent,
of metal.
In the district of Nicoya, many evidences of wealth ejristy>
and gold has been brought to Granada and other cities from
there, by the Indians and traders. The silver mines are
numerous, the veins broad but irregular, and yield from
twenty^five to ninety per cent. Those of Depilta, in the
north, have been worked to advantage^ though the ores
average not more than two per cent., and yet the returns ii»
one year, and that, too, under all the disadvantages of open-
ing the mines, sinking shafts, &c., were about six thousand
pounds of silver^ The gold is of fine quality ; the washings
are more than fair, on an average, even to a Califomian, who
has been led to expect heavy results, and I accept his testi-
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MINES OF OHONYAidW-— FeOR PATNTER. Wi
monf without anj hesitation^ for he bad only to poll up
stakes if dissatisfied, and joarnej on to the land of promise-
Home:
Many nlnera havtf crossed the Luke, and entered the
Ohontales district. In Its almost nnezplored streams, they
have found abondant evidences of wealth ; bnt illy provided
with tools^ proviMons/ and boatfi, they conid not give that
time to the matter which probably will be bestowed hereafter*
I piloted a party across and waited for them three dayS|
and upon their return, saw the gold, a portion of which I
afterward brought to the United States, where it was pro*
nonnced to be fully equal to the best Californian.
An Englishman, by the name of Paynter, resided many
years near Matagalpa, where, in Conjunction With a native^
he carried on the crushing of ore, which paid »him handsomely.
He told me his machinery was primitive: a rude, rough
hammer, worked by water pow^r, for the crushing of th#
rock, which, wh^n broken, fell into a solid basin. He used
immense pestles, and in this way he said be Inade as good i.
living as he desired. He could at any time have as much
money as he wanted ; only increase the number of workmen^
and this result was certain. Machinery could not be had
at any price, nor could travelers be even favorably impressed
with the facts as to this golden but rugged country ; and he
added: "As I am old, and shall never again return U^
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88 NICARAGUA.
England, I am content with little to do, and that little
satisfies all mj desires."
Poor honest Pajnter I he died shortly after. A better com-
panion or truer friend never lived. He was a nobleman of
Nature, with a soal extensive enough to feel for a world of
fifiends, with not a selfish feeling, nor an ignoble princi-
pie. His bones rest far from his rock-bound island home,
and there are many hearts, no doubt, which throb in unison
with mine, as I repeat, Poor Paynter I
•The mineral wealth of the United Central States is im-
mense, each province boasting of numerous mines, washings
of gold, and veins of silver. In the plain of Lepaguare, in
Honduras, there rises a hill about eight hundred feet high,
called Cerro Gordo, fall of silver veins. Santa Lucia, a half
day's ride northeast from Tegucigalpa, Mina Grande, San
Martin, the Gatal, El Ghimbo, a mass of copper dust two
leagues from Tegucigalpa, De la Plata, San Juan de Gan-
taranos. La Mineral de Guascaran, silver; De Plomo, Yilla
Nueva, and other mines adjoining, Tuscaran or Yuscaran,
and nine other mines, one of which, the Guyavilla, is very
celebrated, the Veta Azul, Mairena, the Gorpus, Gedios, Santa
Barbara, San Antonio, Las Animas, the Malacate, and
Encuentros : these form the principal mines of Honduras.
Near Gape Gracias k Dios are found fine opals in abun-
dance. I have many in my possession, a few of which are
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OPALS AND OTHER PRSdOUS STONES. 89
considered fally eqnal to the finest Hnngarian. One In par-
ticalar, is large and fall of fire. They are fonnd in a bluish
rock, rich flinty qnartz, which is with great difficulty even
perforated with a drill. They are seen peering from their
rock-beds like the eyes of a ball, roand, as large, and very
freqnently mach larger. Again, they ran in ?eins in a milk-
blae rock. The stone then assumes a brilliant mother-of-pearl
appearance, being striated, and not so transparent. An old
Frenchman has been for years engaged in their exportation
to France, and owns a specimen the size of an ordinary
sickle pear. I had a very yalnable one, but it was broken,
through the want of skill of a lapidary in New York. The
Indians are engaged in collecting them, and on the moun-
tains their value is esteemed very inconsiderable. In San Sal-
vador, at the village of Zatapa, about nine leagues from Santa
Ana, there are iron and also several good yielding silver
mines ; and within five leagues of San Miguel there are nu-
merous deposits of gold and silver, the principal of which are
Tabanco, Macuelizo, La Baca, £1 Guyal, La Carolina, and
Merendon.
I have witnessed various interesting experiments by the
savans of the mineral regions, to discover what kind of metal
was in an unknown ore, from the color it imparted to
glasses. The ores were pulverized and placed in a covered
vessel, over a fire strong enough to create a moderate red
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9# HKtitftAflrVA.
heat A fnw grains of tbe poiTdered residue was mlxedl irith
an Oiiiice of HrystAlUne glaiS, reduced td A powder ateo^ Cni
was observed that nothmg mOtaMt^ or aaghl else Whi^h mi^li^
tinge glassy shoold mix with it After being or^r Ora fir^ in
fusion for some honrs^ the vessel was taken Out^ iliid aftel^ ii
grew cold^ was broken. Front the color of the fragments^
they then endeavored to discover what metal or ttetallic earth
was contained in the ore t as, for example, from the whiUsb
or milky, that it contained tin ; from the green, Copper $ and
from the rusty green, hron. In an old Latin work Opoft
Docimasia, I have found a highly interesting note, which I
shatt add :-^^' Precious stones are supposed, in their natural
state, to be originally of two classes — the adamantine and the'
crystalltne*^ If they are found in their matrixes untainted by
any metallic substance, they remain pure diamonds, of the
dearest, finest water, or crystals perfectly transpareni; hut
if a diamond is tinged with lead, ii appeir» f eUo# } if witb
copper and iron, it becomes gi^en ; and if with cinnabar, i#
makes a most beautiful i^ed, and then changes its iiame to §
ruby, and loses of its hardness in proportion to the mixture'
of the metal in it A crystaly tinged with iron, becomes a
garnate ; with copper and an alkali, a sapphire ; with copper
and an acid,! att< emerald ; with lead, a topaz and a jacinth ^
with gold, a chrysolite ; with copper and iron, an aqnamarine ^
and so on in many varieties ; and each of these may be imitated
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HnnBRAuwrr. ft
bj mixing preparations of m<ta]§ with the finest white fliilt
f^Iofls, by which method all softs of geofs beiitg dounterfeited^
are dalled pustes, and are dsed to take off impressions of
antique intaglios and cameos."
In a eonntry whose mineralogy is so impeifectly known,
little can he said } and I only add here the result of my own
observations^ with snch information as I Coald gain in yarioae
portions of the State frotii miners and those who wefe inter-'
eeted in mineral developments I have noticed schistns, slate,
mica, talc, asbestos, interspersed with stratified sand-rock,
while superimposed on this conglomerate were veins of
traehytie or basaltic rock^ Those of the calcareous, morc^
especially, I observed, were marbles, calcareous spars, gypsums,
and limestone, the latter very compact, and in color white,
red, blue, and gray. The marbles are white, gray, black,
and green, and like those of Chili, are susceptible of a find
polish. The varieties of spars are infinite, and I have seen
them crossed in various directions by very fine golden fila^
ments.
Quarries of gypsum, the parallelopipedal, rhomboidal, and
striated, are numerous. That of a light blue, very brittle, i9
found in a semi-calcined state in the vicinity of volcanoes ;
of this latter, a highly useful and beautiful plaster for wallff
might be made. There are various kinds of the sandstone^
fiz. : the flint, whetstone, quartz, and rock crystal. Of the
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92 NICARAGUA.
plain jaspers, I discovered the fine red, the gray, gn^en,
white, and the lapis lazuli, and also the gray spotted with
black, the white interspersed with bine and yellow, and the
yellow, variegated with blue, gray, and red spots.
I also found quantities of colored crystals, supposed by the
inhabitants to be precious stones, as they resembled in ap-
pearance rubies, jacinths, diamonds, &c. Among the quan-
tities of quartz in the mountain districts, I purchased for a
trifle several beautiful specimens of agate; and along the
western shore of Lake Nicaragua, have seen the blood-stone.
In the Department Septentrional of Matagalpa, amethysts
have been found which were enclosed in a gray quartz. Had
those who discovered the specimens shown to me, dug deeper,
the stones would have proven more valuable. They varied in
color, some of a pure violet, others tinged with the deepest
tint of purple.
I have been shown, also, several turquoises, greenish-blue
in hue, and others which were very hard, of a deep blue.
According to Abbe Molina, '* these stones ought, with pro-
priety, to be classed among the concretions, as they are only
the petrified teeth or bones of animals, colored by metallic
vapors." (" History of Chili :" Vol. i., pp. 64, 65.) Being but
imperfectly acquainted with mineralogy, and in fact, not
having expected to meet with so much of an interesting
character, I had not at hand a " vade mecum," by which I
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THE WISE DOMINIOAN. 93
conld at once gain a transient intimacy with the quality and
yalae of these stones, and not being in a country where I
could gain reliable or satisfactory replies to my queries, I
have given here the ultimatum of my information, although
I thought in some instances that colored spar was received by
the natives as emeralds, topazes, and sapphires. I am aware,
now, that my latter suggestion is fully endorsed by those inti-
mate with the subject ; but in the instances given, I may have
been mistaken.
In Prescott's Peru, Vol. i., p. 321, by reference, is found,
that the conquerors having reached a town in the province of
Coaque, they rushed into the deserted dwellings, and found
there "a large quantity of gold and silver, wrought into
clumsy ornaments, together with many precious stones; for
this was the region of the esmeraldas, or emeralds, where that
Taluable gem was most abundant One of these jewels that fell
into the hands of Pizarro, in this neighborhood, was as large
as a pigeon's egg. Unluckily, his rude followers did not know
the value of their prize, and they broke many of them in
pieces by pounding them with hammers. They were led to
this extraordinary proceeding, it is said, by one of the Domi-
nican missionaries, Fray Reginaldo de Pedraza, who assured
them that this was the way to prove the true emerald, which
could not be broken I It was observed that the good father
did not subject his own jewels to this wise experiment ; but
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f 4 HIOABAOVA.
M the stones, in consequence of it, fell in ralae, being regarded
merely as colored glass, he carried back a considerable store
of them to Panama."
It was subsequent to the capture of this province, that
Pizarro continued his march along the coast, when a ** strange
epidemic broke out in the little army." The Spaniards,
exhausted by fatigue and disease, "and grievously disap*
pointed at the poverty of the land, which now offered no
compensation for their toils, cursed the hour in which they
had enlisted under his standard ; and the men of Nicaragua,
in particular, says the old chronicler, calling to mind their
pleasant quarters in their luxurious land, sighed only to r9turQ
to their Mohammedan Paradise."
The topazes shown to me were mostly imperfect, and fhll
of flaws; but I saw not one with double pyramid. I was
informed that sometimes these gems were found in quarti
crystals, and that in some instances they were green. I
doubted this, believing that if any substance of that color
resembling the topaz, did occur, it was most probably euelase,
which may be and has been mistaken for it.
In the mountains of Aguacate, near Cartago, in Costa Biea^
there are several gold mines; and the neighborhood of
Olancho is famous for its fine ore, which is said to have been
collected in the sands of the river Ouyape, in its course
through the valley.
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GOLD MINES OF OOSTA RIGA. 95
Many writers have given statistical acconnts of the
revenae of said mines; bat never having seen an official
statement, I shall make no estimates of my own. A few
monhs labor to a party possessing a knowledge of mining,
and the proper machinery, wonld be ample for the amassing
of a foHane. Coal has been found in Costa Rica, npon the
shores of Lake Nicaragua, and upon the Mosqaito coast.
With such evidences of wealth, there can be little doubt
of the early explorations of these provinces by the hardy and
experienced miners of the United States. Their arrival
would be hailed with enthusiasm by % people who Tener»te
our government, and love its citizens for their intelligence,
l^illbiUty;, j»|i4 ^uterpns^.
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CHAPTER X.
BETOND ORAVADA — A TIVW — INDIAN XOTHBR AND HBR LOAD— THB CON-
QUERORS — MT OPINION — MA8AYA — THB PLAZA — THB CHURCH — ST0RB8 AND
MANUFACTURES — FINE HATS, PRICES — HAMMOCKS — PROVISIONS — BXTENT
OF THB TOWN— DOGS AND BUZZARDS— COUNTRY BETOND THB TOWN—
VINDIRI — ITS CHURCH — COOL SHADE — ITS ORANGES — ANOTHER FINN yiBW-~-
MAL PAIS, A ROAD OF LAVA — RIO TIPITAPA AND THB LAKES — SOMe'tHIN«
FROM OVIBDO— AN OASIS — A DRINK, AND A SWING IN A HAMMOCK — BNTRANCB
INTO MANAGUA — WHOM WB MET — CITT BT MOONLIGHT — ^NIHAPA — INDIAN
TEMPLE — A BELL — DIFFBRBNCB OF OPINIONS ABOUT IT — OTHER LAKES —
WASHER-WOMBN AGAIN — ANCIENT HISTORY — SBNORITAS.
Beyond the city the palm is seen waving on either hand.
The roads are bad enongh, bat every one should lay in a sap-
ply of good hamor when tc^veling, especially in this country.
Through dark and dense ravines, draperied with bash and
brier, we hold to the mule path, while myriads ^f macaws,
parrots, and other birds, flit across the almost arched trees
above us. The lake lies on our right, and from the eminence
DOW gained, seems like a fine thread of silver tracing the dis-
(96)
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THE XABLT SPANIARD — HIS SINS AND THE RESULT. 9t
tance. From the sammit of this ridge we have a glorious
prospect. There lies Lake Nicaragua ; and there, like a tail
to a silver kite, runs the Tipitapa. In the background are the
mountains of Matagalpa and Segovia. A slope, covered with
forest, sweeps between us and the outlined picture. The road
is narrow and much worn. Far down to the left, a line of
smoke wreathes palely up from some hidden hacienda, while the
hills seem to chase one another in graceful flow, far back to a
blank horizon. The Indian woman approaching has her load
of corn, a bushel or two, in a net bag, suspended from her
forehead and resting on her back. I have seen, too, besides
this heavy burden, a strapping child of six years of ietge sitting
philosophically on her hip, perfectly resigned to the slavish
condition of the toiling parent. This custom, however, is the
result of the brutalizing treatment of the early Spaniards, the
tormentors of these poor Indians. Gladly would I forget that
the Spanish conquerors introduced neither civilization, peace,
nor plenty, but wars, rapine, and discord ; sowed dissensions ;
and after robbing their prostrate victims of vitality, left them
poverty-stricken and enfeebled. Spain's day of reckoning
must arrive. He whose Gross has witnessed so many inhuman
outrages, whose symbol has been profaned, whose people have
been wronged and betrayed, will not forget the untutored
Indian, whose hearth has been desecrated, and whose home
and hopes have been defiled.
7
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M MIOABAQUA.
We euter Masaya. On either hand are fruit trees, amid
cool cane hots. As we advance, a better class of houses, with
tile roofs, are seen ; and still on, for a considerable distance, we
reach the plaza. In the centre stands a large charch, aboat
which are gathered a vast namber of market people; and,
piled on the pave, are qaantities of fruits and various articles
of domestic manufacture. I was surprised to find abundance
of cordage, hammocks, cotton cloth, saddles, and mats of nu-
merous descriptions, exposed for sale in the stores surrounding
the plaza ; but learned, upon subsequent inquiry, that Masaya
was celebrated particularly for its manufactures. I saw some
beautiful hammocks, very fine, exhibiting considerable taste in
the blending and arrangement of colors, adorned with tassels,
all of which were offered at reasonable prices. For an Ameri-
can dollar I purchased a very good one ; and for two dollars
and a half, one of the finest among them. There is a nack in
sitting or lolling in one of these airy cradles ; and two persons,
reclining mi,dway in one, upon different sides, will thus find a
grand improvement in their siestas. For warm eves, grve me
the grass hammock. I can rock myself to sleep, or remain
torpid ad lihUum,
Upon the left hand of the plaza you reach a posada, or
hotel, where you find plenty of room, beans, corn-cakes, sweet
cakes, dulccs, preserves and candies, hard-boiled eggs, and fried
chickens. The town covers a square league ; though, %<re must
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TOWNS AND THEIE APPURTENANCES. »9
mj, that it would be impossible to estimate the extent of any
of the towns of Nicaragua, or the number of their inhabitants,
without allowing a margin for guess-work. None of the cities
are very extensive — that is, the adobe or finely-built portion ;
but the precincts, or suburbs, are immense. After riding
through the principal streets, until you fancy every estimate
made by travelers wide of the mark, a gap in the foliage will
reveal cane and mud huts on the brink of some ravine, com-
pletely embowered in orange and lemon trees ; or you will
strike a winding foot-path, leading far into a hidden depth of
bananas and palms, which leads you to a populous com-
munity of plebeians. These are a distinct body, save on holy
days, when the masses assemble to witness the fireworks, or to
welcome the entree of a conqueror, or a dictator.
Dogs and buzzards are abundant in and about all the towns.
The former throng the streets, snarl, bark, growl, and run
where they are sure to be in the way ; while the latter, on out-
stretched inky pinions, settle upon the tiled roofs of the con-
vents and churches, as though they were part and parcel
thereof. They are universal appurtenances; and the former
mar a quiet stroll through the shady suburbs, while the latter
break upon the landscape just as your imagination is about to
lend enchantment to some vine-twined ruin, and blot out the
fair proportions of some imaginary airy structure.
Masaya is a sweet retreat, and is celebrated for its industrial
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100 NIOARAQUA.
popniace. Passing throngh the oatskirts one morn, I saw in
a hut several men making hats. I entered, and found some
shaping and manufacturing, while others wer^ slitting into
fine shreds, a species of palm, which forms the fencing about
the country generally, and which grows only about four feet
high. The leaf is long, slender, remarkably strong, and is of a
dark-green color — though when dried, it becomes very light
indeed. These were the finest hats I ever saw, and I ordered
one for twelve dollars, which was to have been delivered to me
in ten days. The only reply, however, to my frequent mes-
sages for it, was *'Poco tiempo," which has passed into a
national proverb. Every thing is conducted on the "in a
little time" style ; and although it at first disarranges all your
plans, and puts you to numerous inconveniences, yet you be-
come accustomed to it^ and in a little while adopt it also, in
self-defense.
The country beyond the city is very luxuriant ; and follow-
ing the broadest road, we pass through a deep cut in a volcanic
rock, about mid-distance to Nindiri. Indian women, with only
skirts on, and children refreshingly naked, are seen moving
about in the orange-arcades on either hand ; while the latter,
noisy as all are and should be everywhere, are found propa-
gated in immense quantities. To the right of the road is a
plaza, on which stands a cosy church. Fruits of every variety
are found here in perfection — among others, excellent oranges,
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THE VOLCANO OF MASATA. 101
hanging from the tree, large, thick-skinned, jnicy and firm.
Passing out toward Managna, which lies twelve leagues from
Masaya, we soon rode into the forest, and reached elevated
and volcanic gronnd, whence the view of the country was
complete. The Lake, plain, hills, monntains, valley, and
forest, all lay far oat on Nature's easel, fresh and fair.
Beyond this point we passed a miserable piece of road, called
by the natives, " Mai pais," — bad country — ; and certainly it
richly merits the title. It is an immense body of lava, ejected
from the volcano of Masaya on the left, which was in full blast
about I6TO9 and of which some strange stories were told by
the early chroniclers. It is a vast mass of hard, grating,
unyielding, bluish-black — a useless waste of matter collected
by teiTific force. It has flooded the country for miles ; and, as
has been conjectured, blocked up the Lake ; for in olden times
it was supposed the Lakes Managua and Nicaragua were
one, as the Rio Tipitapa is supposed to be all remaining of
the lakes in their former unity. The adjacent country is
fiill of accumulated pummice. On the right, toward the
Lake, is truly a desolate picture. Trees buried ; others just
projecting above this mass; rocks toasted, half covered, or
overturned ; valleys filled with it ; and our nag's tramp sound-
ing hollow beneath — all this lends any thing but enchantment
to as drear a landscape as I ever wish to see. Oviedo, an old
chronicler, who visited it while in a state of eruption, in 1529,
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sajs, that neither YesuTias nor Etna were to be compared
with " the Hell of Masaja," as it was called. It is said that
tigers and pumas are nameroas in the yicinity. The moan-
tain, at the base, is about three leagues in circumference, and
rises to the height of a league from the foot to the summit.
He also adds, ^'Some assert that the light caused by the
emptioQ is sufficient to read by at the distance of three
leagues. The whole country is illuminated by the flame of
the Yolcano." The crater is about five hundred feet in depth ;
I and owing to its regular ascent, the width diminishes as it
descends. The bottom of the crater is at least two hundred
feet in circumference. The country immediately surrounding
is barren and desolate — an occasional blighted tree still stand-
ing, a melancholy sentinel over this desert of scoriaceous
mass.
After a pause sufficient to fully satisfy us, we resumed our
saddles, and over a rough, wild, hollow, rumbling road,
reached a lovely and rolling country, a grateful relief to the
eye and feelings. Hard by, on our right, we espied a hut ;
and not having found a stream where we might refresh our-
selves and our jaded animals, we turned from the beaten path,
and rode to the open door. Here we found several Indians
of the Chorotegan race, who furnished us with lemonade,
cakes, candies, and egg9, and we lolled in the ever-ready
hammocks until the sun began to decline, when again spring-
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CHAMORBO AND THE QRENADINOS. 103
ing Into the stirrup, we hastened to Managua. The entrance
to the city is agreeable, the road being lined with trees ; the
cane huts, whitewashed or painted, pitched gracefully upon
the side of a hill, or stuck jauntily upon its summit, sur-
rounded by heavily-laden orange and lemon trees. The
effect was indeed the more striking, as we had just left the
black fields of Masaya, and turned from our halt in the broil-
ing sun to a delightful repose.
The army of the Grenadinos was quartered in Managua, and
our posada was the headquarters of General Chamorro and
suite, and consequently we fared better, probably, than those
travelers who arrived in town a few hours later. The drums
were beating, troops were marshalling in the distance, and
ttie guards were about being relieved, as we strolled out to
survey the city by moonlight, after sipping a cup of tiste.
The people were sitting at their doors, smoking and chatting
over some imaginary entree of General Mnfioz, who, it was
currently reported, was to attack the town that night. As
we advanced, the challenge of the sentry on every corner
announced our approach to the plaza. The moon rose
beautifully over the towering coyal palms in the distance,
and illumined a large sheet of water beyond us, which we
subsequently discovered was Lake Managua.
Lake Nihapa lies about nine miles from the city, and
occupies the crater of an extinct volcano. Here we found
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104 NICARAGUA.
masses of black laya, partially covered with patches of grass,
while before us were small huts. Beyond, flowing in har-
monious swells, were mountains, crowned with graceful foli-
age ; and far beyond stretched Lake Managua, gemmed with
islands, gleaming like a huge burnished mirror. We de-
scended to a position of safety, and gazed far down the depth
of the crater, where we saw a Tariety of uncouth, red-painted
figures, concerning which I had no time to gather any thing,
and probably saved my labor, for queries are to but little
purpose in Nicaragua. " Quien sabe f " — Who knows ? — is a
fit companion for the everlasting ''Poco tiempo;'' and be-
tween the two you derive as little satisfaction as from any
sources imaginable. There is said to exist here the remains of
an Indian temple. If it does, I did not see it ; but I found
an arched cave, which, to an inexperienced eye, aided by a
fertile and superstitious imagination, might prove a temple
as well as any thing else. The choice is altogether a matter
of taste, and I suppose the inhabitants delight in believing
that which tradition has handed to them.
There are various other lakes in the neighborhood of the
city, all of volcanic formation and origin. The Salt Lake is
one of them, the water being brackish. The descent to it is
steep, and overgrown with underbrush and briers. Another, the
name of which I cannot recall, is reached by a path margined
with cacti. The water is very cool, the sun is felt bat little^
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MANAGUA AS IT WAS AND 18. 105
and it is the favorite resort of the washer-women of the city
Managua, in ancient times, after the expedition of Cordova,
was said to be nine miles long, contained forty thousand in-
habitants, and the country generally might be said to swarm
wiih population. It is now a quiet place, celebrated only
for its neighboring lakes, a few old statues, and for ihe ex-
ceeding grace of its nut-brown senoritas.
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CHAPTER XL
VAKAOUA — ITS IKHABITANT8 — SERVILE S AKD LIBERALS — HISTORICAL IITTEB-
LUDBB — EDUCATION — THE FATHERS OP ELD — BIGOTRT — ECCLESIASTICS — AH
ANCIENT CARTING PADRE YIGIL — RBLIGOUS CEREMONIES — THE INDIANS —
SQUIER'S ASSERTIONS RELATIVE TO THE KOSQUITO INDIANS — HISTORY AGAIH
— IDEAS ABOUT MIGRATION — ANTIQUE STONES (PIEDRAS ANTIGUAS) — THH
CONFESSORS OF THE CONQUEST.
Managua is the seat of the meeting of the Legislature.
Its inhabitants are deemed stanch and loyal citizens ; and
there being continual jealousies and strifes between Leon and
Granada, here, on neutral ground, the opposing cliques event-
ually meet, arrayed in the " panoply of war," to battle, fortune
deciding in turns for either party. These intestine broils are
waged with acrimony ; families are arrayed against their own ;
kill forget, or forsake kindred ties, and bury in the preparation
for strife every ancient feeling of love and reciprocal friend-
ship. Events of long standing are causes for animositleSy
(106)
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THE SERVIL88 AlfP LIBERALS. lOt
which only reqaire a breath to fan into a flame* The embers
of 'discord are smouldering, a blaze arises, intercoarse ceases,
appeals to arms ensae, and the already poyerty-enfeebled
country groans under new taxes and fresh imposts. The En-
glishman, too, has been busy, sowing the seed of dissension,
that he might reap a golden haryest ; and in its troubles he
fattens upon the vitals of the helmless State.
There are two factions, viz., the Senriles — the aristocrats or
monarchists*— and the Liberals or Republicans. Prior to the
independence of Nicaragua from her confederated articles with
Honduras, Costa Rica, and other states, the Serviles favored a
monarchy, of which the Emperor of Mexico was to have been
the head. The Liberals of Guatemala and Nicaragua united
and opposed these suicidal schemes, and lost or gained, at
different times, till in 1829, Gen. Morazan discovering that
the church was intriguing also against liberal views, seized the
prelate and marched him out of the country, forbidding his
return, under penalty of death. Monks and friars were sum-
marily expelled. The convents and monasteries were conse-
quently deserted ; and the State of Guatemala passed a decree
forbidding the "taking of the veil," suppressing monastic
establishments, and confiscating to the State's support these
wealthy garners of exclusive church monopolies. Papal bulls
were not permitted to be promulgated ; church dignitaries
were to be appointed by the President of the Republic, and
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108 NIOARAQUA.
the sale of papal dispensations proceeded from the Federal
Government.
Honduras legalized the marriages of the priests, and legit-
imated the children resolting from their anion. The confed-
eracy dissolved, and the Serviles being in the ascendency,
convents were reopened in Guatemala ; bat the other States
maintained their prohibitions. The taxes npon property have
greatly enriched the chnrch coffers notwithstanding. These
liens accamalated rapidly, and encambered the largest estates
of the country; bat the Legislatore of Nicaragoa, in 1850,
abolished ten per cent, of these, except such as were ap-
plied to education.
Nicaragua and Costa Rica constitute one Diocess, dating
back to 1526. Education is at a low ebb. On the outskirts
of Masaya, to the left, we passed an adobe school-house. I
peeped in and saw about sixty muchachos and muchachitas
busily engaged in poring over their books. They recite in
one class, and sing their lessons. The rod is known here, too,
and is measured by no stingy rule ; but how to detect, m
such an universal method of recitation, the delinquent student,
I could not arrive at ; but suppose the ear becomes accustomed
CO the scholastic melodies, and readily discovers a false note,
or an inharmonious tone. Mr. Squier's correspondent ob-
serves, that "in the University of Granada, are taught the
following branches : Latin and Spanish granunar ; Philosophy
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EDUCATIONAL FAGILITIE8. 109
Civil and Canonical Law, also Theology, English and French.
In mathematics there is a void. The time devoted to Spanish,
Grammar, and Latin, is two and a half years — to Philosophy,
two years — Civil, and Canonical Law, and Theology, three
years ; and that many, wanting, the patience, skip and skim over
them, to secure their titles ;" and there are priests who have
read so little, that they may be dignified as self-taaght. Sala-
ries of professors do not exceed two hundred dollars per
year.
Liberal inducements have been offered in Central. America
for the establishment of schools of every grade. The Govern-
ment House, after business hours, is nsed for school purposes.
Education, in a country where Catholic influences were always
prominent, in fact universal from the conquest, has been but
lightly regarded. It could not be that the Fathers of the
Church were illiterate. It could not be that education should
be considered a disqualification, an incubus upon prog-
ress. Why, then, has it stood still, since the introduction of
Christianity 1 Has the precept of our Saviour been carried
out, *' Suffer little children to come unto me'' ? or have the holy
padres used the temples of the Most High for other purposes
more holy 7 Has this not occurred wherever the Cross has
been planted by force, as in South America, Peru, Mexico, Gua-
temala, and upon the ruined shrines of the Incas and Aztecs 1
If civilization does not contain the germ of educational por-
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110 NICARAGUA.
poses, what shall we find within it 7 Nought save a painted,
treacherous nuncio, a promise worse than a positive denial,
because unfulfilled. And calmly reviewing the conquest, we
find no spirit of enterprise inculcated by the church. Blind
obedience, slavish submission, unnatural exactions, jaundiced
exi)ectatiofls, faithless pledges — these only are the results of
the incoming of these Soldiers of the Faith. These provinces,
instead of even remaining as pure in principle, and honest in
sentiment as the holy fathers found them, are degraded by
moral and intellectual prostitution, where, amid the just
shooting germs of natural hopes and religious feelings, the
Cross of the Crusade trembles upon a tottering foundation.
It has been contended by some, that bigotry is universal. I
must differ from those who probably have had no superior ad-
vantages of self judging. An apathy pervades the community in
general, I admit. There is a wuat of decision among the
higher classes — a void of sentiment — a laxity of discipline ; but
I have found abundant evidences of moral worth and common
sense, which are guarantees of substantiality. The night of
fanaticism is fast waning ; the dawn of moral and physical in-
dependence is already breaking; and in the dayspring of
Nicaragua, a future of greatness and prosperity is shadowed,
which will forever close against the Church of the Conquest
the hopes of a revival of its past absolute sovereignty, and
merciless control.
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THE CARVED FIGURE OF CORTEZ. Ill
Amid the body of ecclesiastics, nevertheless, I have met with
many men whose unexceptionable demeanor attracted not
alone, attention, but inspired reverence and respect ; men who
were capable of friendship unalloyed, and who reciprocated
those many little minutiae, which form a pleasing whole.
Fadre Vigil, the curate of the parochial in Granada, is of this
class, a man of genuine sterling virtue, a friend of the oppressed
in heart and deed. I remember a sermon delivered by him m
1850, in which he noticed a want of proper feeling among the
natives toward the Americans, who, instead of kneeling as the
Host passed by, raised their hats in respect. Difficulties have
occurred in Catholic countries where natives have deemed the
omission of kneeling an insult to their religion ; we may
mention Mexico, Peru, Italy, and many other states. This
ecclesiastic subsequently represented Nicaragua as Minister
to the United States.
Having heard that there was a carving of considerable merit
in a small hut, in a remote portion of the city, I hastened to ex-
amine it, anxious to incorporate in my "notes" a description
of it. It proved to be a representation of a cavalier on horse«
back, almost of life-size ; the costume and arms were of the fif-
teenth century, in his upraised right hand he clasped a straight-
bladed sword, and in the left, a long cross. The figure itself,
was designed with a great deal of spirit ; the long hair and
flowing beard, the cap, upon the side of which was represented
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112 NIGA&AQUA.
a feather, the sash abont the waist, and the spur upon the
right heel, all corresponded with the paintings of the Indians
subsequent to the conquest. The eyes of the cavaiier are
raised, and his entire attitude denotes the moment of his em-
barking upon some enterprise, such as the advancement of the
Holy Cross into new lands. The horse is executed with a
boldness seldom seen in the engravings or paintings of the
early Mexicans or Indians. The carving occupies the entire
side of the cane hnt ; and the reply to my query, as to whom
it was supposed to represent, was, "Hernando Cortez.'' As
to its history, they knew nothing more than it had been in their
family for many years. The panels encompassing it are filled
with dim, and nearly obliterated tracings. They represent
armed white men, with long beards, battling with nude Indians
with primitive weapons ; while interspersed, are seen dogs with
open mouths, rushing upon the terrified natives.
In the court of our posada, I saw a large brass bell, which
had rung the tocsin of a revolution in Spain, the name of
which I have forgotten. I was told it was brought here by the
Spaniards, but for what purpose was not known. The casting
was superb, and the metal equal to the matchless cannon of
Chagres Fort and those lying on the lake-side at San Carios.
The Indians of this country were, we learn from the early
chroniclers, divided into "two distinct families, corresponding
with the sections of the Provinces. The Caribs maintained a
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THE MOSQ0ItrO INDIANS. US
precarioaB living on the Atlantic coast, with h, ptt%\itT reli*
gion." Sqaiers remarks: "A portion of their descendant&i
still farther debased by the introdaction of negro blood, may
fttili be foand in the wretched Mosqoitos, who, by a brazea
ft*&ttd, are «tte&ipted to be passed off on the world «8 a
iovoreiga nation, oomprehending tlM datios, «nd capabk
^ ftilfilling the requirements of govemmeat.^ It k naUk
out proTince, nor onr intention here, to dilate upon tfait
title of the Mosquito king to that part of the oonntryv
known «8 the ''Mosquito Territory," and inhabit^id by tti#
Mosoos or Mosqnitos, Yalientes, Wawas, and other tribes &k
tbe shores of the Caribbean Sea, from the ninth to the fifteentk
degree of north latitude. We shall speak of it hereafter, and
fttniish the titles of the claimants in juxtaposition, and draiT
•nr inferences*
On the rirer San Juan, are the few Melchoras of Carib
stock, and the same is said to be true of the Woolwas, Poy«a»
Ramas, Toacas, and the Bravos to the southward on the
Atlantic coast, toward Chiriqui Lagoon. In the interior, the
natives partook of the characteristics of the Mexicans, and were
divided into distinct governments. They appear to have been
one people, with the exception of those living on the small
isthmus between the Pacific and Lake Nicaragua. These
latter spoke the language of the ancient Mexicans, and pos-
sessed their costoffls and religion. The other races^ called
8
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
114 NIOARAQUA.
Dirians, occnpied Masaya, Managaa, Tipitapa, Dlriomo, and
Diriamba. Oviedo says, ''they were true Chorotegans." The
Nagrandans occnpied the plain of Leon between the northern
extreme of Lake Managua and the Pacific. The Orotinians
settled the country sonth of Lake Nicaragua around the Gulf
Nicoya. The Cholutecans, occupied the districts north of the
Nagrandans, extending along the Gulf of Fonseca into what
is now Honduras territory. The Chontals covered Chontales,
northward of Lake Nicaragua, and lying between the tribes
already given, and those on the Caribbean Sea. That these
tribes should have migrated is no great wonder, for migrations
greater occurred prior; that they should be remnants, or
entire tribes from Mexico, is not at all strange — for after the
conquest of Mexico, various tribes sought safety from the
swords of the conquerors ; and that Nicaragua should have
been the home of their exile should not be as strange, as to
know positively that the language of Mexico is spoken by some
of them, and yet, not to believe them hereditary descendants
of the Aztecs.
Many statues, or " antique stones" have been discovered,
either too much broken to be entirely recovered, too bulky for
the means of present transportation, or too difiScult of access ;
and there can be but little doubt that numbers have been
hidden by the Indians, who yet retain a distinct remembrance
of their traditional virtues. Could these senseless blocks
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THl OONTESSOBft 07 THE CONQUEST. 116
speak, with what eloqaence would they tell the wrongs of their
worshippers, and how depict the fanaticism of the holy fathers,
who waged a long crasade against them and their venerators I
fet some of them remain, pure as when chiseled, while the
Confessors of the Conquest sleep in dusty chambers, far from the
scenes of their rapine, remembered by their atrocities, and
revered, certainly not for their advancement of the Holy Cause.
Time will weigh each in his balance, and justice will be ac-
corded by Him who '' marks the sparrow's fall," the Father of
the Fatherless.
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CHAPTER XII.
IDOLS — GOOD TEETH — CI0ARITA8 — UNTYERSAL USE — A PRIMITITE PEOPLE—
A CLEAN BREAST OF SEVERAL MATTERS — A TISIT WITH THE CONSUL-GENERAL
OF THE UNITED STATES — AN INTERESTING DOHESTIC GROUP — RECOGNITION
OF A WELL-KNOWN YOICE — COMFORTS NOT EXPECTED — COUNTRY ABOUT THE
CITY — FRUITS — FIELDS — COOKS — SOCIETY — OUR POSADA — BIOGRAPHICAL
SKETCH OF CHAMORRO — ALSO OF JOSE TRINIDAD MUNOZ— OUTSIDE OF MA-
NAGUA — ON OUR TOUR AGAIN — SCOUTS — NEW ROAD OYER THE MOUNTAIN —
HARROW PATH — AN INCIDENT BY THE WAY-SIDE — GLIMPSES OF THE COUNTRY
OUTPOSTS AHEAD, AND OUR PREPARATION.
A NUMBER of statnes may be fonnd in this city, thongh mnch
defaced, and so rude in execution, that for me they possessed
bat little interest, and probably for the reader less. I of coarse
consider them idols ; I coald not mistake them for modern
statnes, for Nicaragua has erected no monuments, that I dis-
covered, to the memory of any of her sages or patriots. Had
I been told that these rude stone cuttings portrayed a Soph-
ocles or a Hannibal, I should have questioned the likenesses,
(116)
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OBSERVATIONS ABOUT SMOKING. IIT
and bare gireii the sculptor credit for chiseling the deceased
oat of that transient respect, which a Mv picture of a departed
sage or hero receives eren from the stranger.
I hare said elsewhere that this city was eeTebrated, among
other matters, for the graceful carriage of its females. This is
not confined to the wealthier class ; it is a general thing. The
seSorita, decked in her gayest apparel, possesses the same ease,
the same quiet dignity ; while the miichachas, who upon their
heads balance the tinajas, sweep past with an eloquent motion
which instantly attracts your attention. As a general thing,
too good teeth are prevalent ; and having heard the learned
Professors of Medicine in the United States anathematize
the practice of smoking and chewinj^ as injurious to health and
teeth, I felt relieved as I observed its universal use here,
where from earliest infancy no restraints had been imposed, no
Candle lectures from tidy housewifes, no vigorous handling from
the hand of an enraged governor, who probably might have set
the example to his erring child. Every one enjoys a smoke, old
and young, male and female ; and you at first deem it singular,
that as you sit tete-a-tete with a smiling seiiorita, she should
in a moment make a paper cigarita, and after lighting it, puff
it once or twice, and hand it to you with a smile, that of
course overcomes any remnant of antipathy yet lingering as to
a "draw."
I might mention some particulars for the curious, and whit-
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118 mOARAGVA.
tling away as I am at facts, not fancies, and as probably some
of my readers may take a trip to Nicaragua some time, I may
as well make "a clean breast" of that which I feel pressing to
my lips and eager to have utterance. Now I wish to be
fairly understood. I consider the Nicaragnans a primitive
people in many respects — self-taught, self-dependent ; rich in
many virtues ; and wanting only in that which I honestly be-
lieve is not solitaire in Spanish countries, but even has status in
the United States — Nationalizing, and one other element essen-
tially Spanish — loant of self-governmeni. My premises thus
given, I shall be considered properly, I trust. A favorite, to
whom your serenade is given, your sonnets improvised, your
waltz or polka dedicated, is as shy of a loving embrace, or a
warm, rich, ripe kiss, as are some of the blushing and beautiful
daughters of my own country, but they do not object to being
very scantily clad, and bathing with yon. I must confess this
want of consistency, or rather this primitive idea of fig-leaf-
date, was rather a " stopper in my pipe" at first ; though, like
other bashful young men, I soon recovered my equanimity,
and enjoyed "old-fashions" in old-fashioned style. Alto-
gether, I really believe I prefer them to the many new-fangled
notions, under a heavy press of which, propriety is altogether
lost sight of, nature checked, and good old common sense re-
duced to old fogyism, and its relative chances — bad fare and
" back seats."
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OUE VISIT TO THE ADVOCATE'S. 11^
The Hon. W. F. Boone, United States Consul-General,
one evening accompanied me to visit several ladies, danghters
of an advocate. We entered, and found the mother swinging
in a hammock, her daughters sitting at the door. I ushered
him in with Httle ceremony, omitting, of course, his titular
appendage. After a few moments we heard what seemed to
each of us to be a very familiar noise, and after a careful
survey, observed a female pig with her family, in the extreme
corner of the room. The father of this pork brood was root-
ing and grunting away in a very undignified manner, and ad-
vanced between the General and our entertainers with a sang
froid only equalled by the want of notice of the intrusion
upon the part of the ladies. This rather confused the Consul,
and he remembers the visit to the advocate's house to this
day, and often laughs as he recalls the incident. And
yet yon pass a pleasant agreeable evening; and it is only
.in proportion as yon enter and indulge in female society
everywhere, that a just appreciation of national character
may be formed. In other cases, you find many of the com-
forts enjoyed at home — sofas, bedsteads, carpets, mattrasses,
pianos and other articles of luxury. Dress varies in style and
arrangement, according to class and age.
The country around Managua is probably as rich and fer-
tile as in any other portion of the State. Fine fruits are
abundant, and can be purchased for a trifle ; but as a resi-
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190 NICARAGUA.
clence, I prefer Granada, or the eonntrj about Bi^s,
probably liecanse at those points more foreigners maj havt
settled, and the public bouses generally kept by them afforded
e^ery dehcacy which eould be. obtained. The diet of th«
country is very simple, though you find many Jamaica cooks,
or those who have been taught the secrets of the French
llarder, who may be engaged for from two and a half to thre«
and a half dollars per month, while the Spanish can be had
f>r fipom one and a half, to two dollars. Prices vary, suddenly
and frequently.
From the fact of the meeting of the Legislative Assembly
in this city, a great number c^ the elite reside here, and cott^
sequently the society is desirable. At the posada we patros-
^ed. General Ghamorro and suite were quartered ; and as li«
maintained an elevated position in the estimation of hia
admirers, and subsequently was elected Supreme Director, we
nuiy add our personal recollections of him. In height he.
was about five feet, six inches ; corpulent, possessed the air of
a man '' well to do in the world," and conscious of his posi-
tion and his ability. His face was oval, eye large, features
regular, and was withal quite prepossessing. His counte-
nance indicated a good-liver, a good feeder ; a jovial expres-
sion illumed his eye as you approached him ; and, to a
stranger, he seemed any thing but that which his enemies
and rivahi would have induced us to believe
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OHARAGTEB OF OBNERAL CHAMORBO. 121
Iffs atteen were mach attached to him, and he had the
Btmost Gonfidenee of his soldiers. He possessed the secret
of swaying the mass with an impromptu manner, that dis-
armed malice, and which gare a certain recklessness to self,
both dazsling and attraetire. His enemies Tilified him when
they proclaimed him a coward. His defense of what he
deemed sacred, the Constitution and his conn try, at Granada,
during the rerolotion, when General Munoz led the opposing
party, which was defeated firequently, and which sabsequentlf
ipas commanded by General. Walker, is a recorded denial of
this charge ; fbr b» spurned quarter, refused truce, and CTeii
when the enemy enoan^ped aboot the city, and nearly starred
hiA rank and file, he did not swenre* He was ubiquitous ; h»
Ttsited erery post, inspected the arms, commanded in person
Ibraging parties, and finally fell a Tictim to his OTer-exertion.
Let me not hear these idle calumnies. If he diflered with me,
er with the party with whom my countrymen were joined,
there should be at least the truth told of our adversary ; and
I know that the fhtnre will be generous to him. He battled
for his rights ; he defended his countrymen when called to
the post of trust and honor; occupied it with ability, and
died, mourned and beloved.
And here, leaving the corpse of one of the leading men of
the State, with whom history will have much to do, let us
tarn to another, celebrated as the " Great Captain" for many
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122 mOABLAQVA.
years, and whose life has been as erentfol as cheqaered,
namely, Qeneral Jose Trinidad Mufioz. His Excellency had
visited the United States, and had been in the Mexican army
under General Santa Anna. He possessed a proper appre*
elation of the Americans, for whom he ever decidedly evinced
his preference. He was abont five feet eight or nine inches
in height, rather spare, had a commanding fignre, a fine in-
tellectual head, a full and very expressive eye, a clear voice,
a quickness, remarkable in Central America, in forestalling
your conclusion, an agreeable smile, and was as courteous
and affable in his casa as any man I ever knew. His lady
was a rare specimen of Nicaraguan beauty, as also her sister,
both of whom I believe were bom in Leon. He was a native
of Oranada. He was an admirer of the great Napoleon, and
wore his chapean, top-boots, and coat, k la Bonaparte. In
his saloon, he had engravings of several of the chief battles
of that distinguished hero, and evidently desired to imitate
him so far as the artists could aid him. He was General-in-
Chief of the array for many years ; and as war was his profes-
sion, when peace settled with healing wings over his own
State, he offered his services to others, and thus " kept his
hand in." We shall meet with him hereafter, and shall only
here record our judgment.
He had a certain dash of talent, and the secret of its being
produced at certain times; he possessed also the tact of
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OSNERAL MTJNOZ. 123
prodncing it all at once. He had a certain degree of fore-
sight He knew, sooner or later, the flag of his country
mast be succeeded by another, and he had sufficient pru-
dence to communicate this only to those whom he knew also
were ready to aid him. He felt the part which England was
endeavoring to play in Central America, and had the good
sense to nerve his countrymen to oppose her machinations ;
but the honest, heartfelt patriotism, the pure devotion to
his country's welfare, the desire to be great only in the hearts
of his countrymen, the disregard of foreign influence, the
abandon of self, and the courage, perseverance, and never*
give-up, inborn religious principles of Chamorro — these he
never inherited.
Pursuing a well-beaten road over level ground, we passed
out of Managua, and pursued our tour, while our refreshed
animals gave evidence of renewed pace and spirits. Every-
where we met detachments of troops posted, and moving
rapidly from place to place, for an attack from the opposite
party, under General Munoz, was hourly expected. Scouts
were stationed at intervals along the camino real, and we
halted at the foot of a high eminence — which is the only one
between Granada and the Pacific, via Leon — to prepare our
nags for its ascent. A road also has been constructed around
this ridge to the left, so that in the rainy season, when the
ground is slippery, the arduous toil of surmounting it may be
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124 NICARAOtTA.
obyiated. It is the work of General Mafioz, who has aehioTed
and deserves great credit for the consammation thereof.
The conn try spreads before ns^ refreshingly lovely, Th^
ridge is steep, and the road winding over it very narrow.
About half way up, to the right, a wall of masonry guards the
traveler from a summersaolt down a frightful preeipice, should
his mule stumble ; while, on the left, a ridge of apparently
loose rocks line the perpendicular immensity overhead. Should
horsemen meet in this canalled ravine, there would be some
difficulty in passing ; and how laden mules would accomplish
this I cannot determine, save where the muleteer could find a
niche by the way-side, in which he might temporarily house hia
animal. This wall is not remarkably durable ; and there ar^
at spaces, huge rocks remaining, which are so perfectly bal-
anced that it seemed to us a slight effort on the part of one
man would send them thundering down the abyss. This, how*
ever, upon trial, we found required our united efforts. After
much struggling, we detached a fragment, which swept with
the noise of the broadside of a frigate down the craggy depth,
crushing the young palm and the tender saplings. A myriad
echoes came reverberating from glen, through cove, from rock
to rock, from chasm to chasm, till in the far distance a low
rumbling faintly told us of the onward rolling of our messenger.
Glimpses of a beautiful outlined country are caught through
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THE MOTTNTAIN PASS WAT. 125
detached groups of distant forests, and the calmly sleeping
Lake creeps on the landscape, with its silvery bosom.
The scene on our right, now that we have reached the sum-
mit, is immensely grand. Upon the left we mark the serpen-
tine road, creeping over the hills, and threading its course
through level stretches, and again lost in a copse of gigantic
trees. Upon the extreme right, the picture is framed by out-
lined eminences ; while on the rear, or toward the point of our
offset, the forests, vales, and flowedng cacti, are margined by
the silver setting of Lake Managua. The view repays us for
having chosen this mountain passage-way — tinkling bells
come swelling gently up from a few straggling mules, laden
with com and fodder. We hasten from the narrow summit-
defile, and pass on to the base of the ridge, once more halting
'aeath the cool shade of a gigantic Cebia.
Our road is now apparently an easy one, and we jog along
at a quiet pace, descrying a few huts ahead, where we will
refresh selves and males, although we have ridden scarce two
leagues. Here we are already observed by the outposts, and
not knowing whether we will be permitted to pass quietly,
inasmuch as our ** passport" bears the signet of the General of
the opposing faction. There are rumors also floating of Ameri-
cans having joined the enemy, and consequently we prepare
to defend ourselves, and break, if necessary, the blockade
ahead*
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CHAPTER XIII.
1IATBARB8 — POPULATION — APPBARANCB — THB H0U8B OF OUR HOST—OUR BXXT
— OUR PASS— LAKB MANAGUA — A HOT SUN AND AN INPBBNAL ROAD—
A HUT AT HAND— A FRIBND IN NBBD— A STRBAM— A HALT— A BATH — NA6A-
BOTB — A POSADA — THB LAND — HOST AND HOSTESS — MUSQUITOBS — ATTEMPT TO
SLEEP — FARB — ^FRIJOLBS, TORTILLAS, AND AOUARDIBNTB — PLEASANT RIDE,
AND AN BARLT START — BEAUTIFUL APPBARANCB OF THB COUNTRY — DBER-^
ROADS — FIELDS OF MAIZE — SUNRISE — COCOA-NUTS — PALMS AND CALABARHB8
—CANE HUTS AND TRIM GARDENS — FINE CACTUS — PDBBLO NUBYO, AND A
POSADA — OUR MEAL— BBTOND THB TILLAGE — FEATURES OF THB COUNTRT —
SOIL AND TIMBER — THB PLAIN OF LEON- DITCHES — HUTS — NINE VOLCANOES
— GLIMPSE OF THB CATHBDRAL — GUADBLUPE — CITY IN THE DISTANCE —
BTIDBNCBS OF AN ANTICIPATED SALLY ON OUR ENTRANCE — OUR POSADA —
OUP OF CACAO — INHABITANTS — LEGACIES OF THB CONQUERORS — THB TROOPS
^DRAGOONS — RAINY SEASON — OUR HOST.
Wb reached the paltry village of Mateares, at the junction
of several roads, which in the United States would have borne
the title of Mateares cross-roads. It comprises a few huts,
and a rather respectable cnartel. The expectations of travelers
(126)
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MATEARES AND THE HOUSE OF OUR HOST. 12t
are not disappointed by the aspect of the place, for it has as
little to recommend it as could be found anywhere ; while the
fare at exorbitant prices corresponds. The people seem to be
an intermediate race between the lowest of the Indians in the
southern portions of the State, and the imported negro. The
population is probably less than one hundred ; their occupa-
tion any thing which may turn up, from the courier to the
assassin ; and I am told, that during the frequent visits of the
freebooters, in past days, to the State, a plentiful supply of
Tillains could always be relied upon at a moment's notice from
this village. Our guide whispered in my ear, to look out for
our animals and purses, as the " whole breed were bad, very
bad, and the government assassins were all quartered here."
The village is hidden for the most part in palm, banana,
orange and lemon groves; after a stroll through the dense
thickets about the place, I entered the house of our host.
Arms were stacked around everywhere ; and I really think the
natives I met,^were the most abandoned-looking set that ever
graced the decks of a piratical craft.
We resumed our saddles after a dinner of hard-boiled
eggs, corn-cakes, and bad water, tempered bountifully with
aguardiente, and without a regret, left the place at a fast
gallop, by a road to the right which led down a hill, and
thence upon a plain of some extent covered with trees. Here,
as we emerged from the hot sun into the cool shade of over-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
128 NIOAAAaUA.
arching palms, we obserted a barrier ahead, and apon the left
hand a hut of recent erection, in front of which a strong de-
tachment of soldiers were drawn. We halted, handed to the
superior officer our passport, and after many delays were per-
mitted to adymioe. Beyond this post^ we w«re ia the country <^
the enemy, and we learned that detachments of the opposing
parties had met a few miles beyond this ia the morning, where
a sharp conflict had ensued, in which tibe Grenadioos lost tw9
men. Yigilance was therefore necessary.
Passing through a copse, we found Lake Managua upon our
right, while bare cliffs ran up abruptly on the left. The road
was pebbled with colored stones, and the shores of the Lake
covered with cranes and ducks, while overhead winged the
gaudy parrots and the brilliantly-plumed macaws, mirroring
back, resplendently, the fierce rays of the noon sun, which now
in full force fell upon u& The heat was indeed intense; the re-
flection from the vast sheet beside us, and the rocks upon our
left, penetrated by the hot, burning glare, only served to in-
crease our uncomfortableness, as we turned in vain from side
to side to escape the broiling, or to gain a moment's relief.
The TGsd was very sandy as we passed through clusters
of a species of thorny or prickly willow, and really I deemed
this place could be more distinctly named "a hell," than the
" Infierno de Masaya." Upon the left hand, amid a cluster of
trees, we observed a thin wreath of smoke slowly rising, and
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THE BOAD TO NAOABOTE. 129
hastening np an ascending path, foand a hat» where we
soon obtained lemonade, a few dnlces, and a swing in a
hammock.
The road now wandered from the Lake, ranning throngh
cool and leafy coverts, and sweeping gradaallj again to the
beach, alternating, till we reached the top of a hill, the foot
of which was laved by a fine stream. This was a luxury in*
deed, a halting-place for travelers, though not a hut is seen.
The ground for a little space being cleared, and withal hard
and firm, we unbuckled our girths, and lifting ofif the saddle-
bags from the weary animals, refreshed ourselves, and bathed
in the limpid rivulet, the first we had met since leaving
Granada. Here we remained some time, and then pushed on
for Nagarote, where we arrived after a tiresome ride, though
the distance from Mateares is but two short leagues.
Nagarote is an ill-iooking village, a brother of Mateares,
though boasting of probably three or four good houses. We
found a posada, where boiled eggs, fried chickens, stale bread,
and berries, were prepared for us at fair traveling rates, and
I strolled about, vainly endeavoring to find any thing of in-
terest. The land here is a stereotype of that through which
we have passed; though the face of the country begins to
assume a more level character ; the orange and lemon trees
are not so prolific, but the cactus seems more exuberant.
The village is composed of straggling cane huts, alive with
9
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
180 NIOA&AOUAv
ebildfeit, and we fdnnd here a welcome worthfoT our oira
eouDtry. The host and hostess were sensible people, and
knew that Americaos wonid paj well, and conseqoentlj
attended to oar table, soppljing it bomitifbilj.
After ref^ahmentd, we endeavored to take a siesta; but
between little lisards crawling about ne, musqnitoes singl-
ing in mj ears, and fleas biting me, I enrsed tile whole
vaceof nuisances^ and resolved to walk and nod rather Uumi
■abmit qaietly to.be thus fbdnpon^ To saddle ons* Bags and
aceomplish lite distance to tlia neirt riilaga^ wa» nata iii our
power, fop we had ridden slowly, and fished in tile Lake, and
hence were oompelled to remain all night I drew from my
eabaa several bandW of cigars, and sitting in my hammocl^
puffed- away tbe tboogbte of deep, leisurely surveying my
sleeping companions, One was kicking at an^ ever-restless
S^ another slapping at it. vigilant musquito, another onrsiDg
the hard-boiled eggs, tortflUe, and^ iHjole% anothen tHe
country and the bad agoandknte^ until finally awakened by
the clouds of smoke emanAtiji^ from my cigars, they landed
hes^ily to a^c^e me taking tiie whol# a#a|r so philosophically:
j|L wf)jt^; uow, Amt aguardiente, tordUilK^ imd fl*ijole& Aguar*-
d\eop& js the rum of Hicaragna, and ia » go^emmeot xxfo*-
nuppij. Sweet Spanish wineaiNdd light French w^ties may be
bad, AS also Champagne, Sherry, Maderia, Cognmt mi all the
yjft^-ietjies of other countries. The duty ia om dollar nud
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TOBTHJJBir JuB^ mtJOLES. I^I
ftr«i[ity'-iIvrceiTt»pergftnbirtrpon all Ifqnors, imd Bence there
is DO reason why a common article should be imported. There
ift aldo tt K^eor brought from Pera, called PFsco or Italia^
which is i^ry flne^ though uot so gientle id its effects as has
been remarked^ by some writers, ha manafactore is confined
to a small aroonnt, though, at Panama and Valparaiso, a
spurious article bearing the name can readily be obtained*
The stiandard, I may add tlie national dishes, are tortillas
orcoro-eakesi and ftijoier or beans; Thir fint are made of
com, ears of wHictr^ unr mirefdUy seleeted; The grains are
soaked in alkali; to remove the hall or shell, and sttbseqnentiy
allowed to soak fbr a little while. They are then placed oji
a grinding stone, called metlatl, and rediiced to the proper
consistency by being' beaten with along round stone roller or
poonder, similar to the whet-stone used in oar Harvest fields
i)i the United States ; a little cheese is added, when Anita
or Mercedes beat the batter into flat cakes, and place them
in warm earthen pans* When nicely browned npon one
side, they are tamed» and in* a^ little time we ha?e them on
onr plates, crisp and smoking: If good hotter could be ob*
tbined, tortillas woold be indeed! desirable ;. bat I preferred
8hip*breadj or crackers*
Frijoles are beans of a different flavor and appearance from
those of onr latitude. They are small, and in color ranpring
from white to black. Tortillas, frijoles, and hard-boiled eggs
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
182 1II0A&A.OUA.
comprise the Bill of Fare of ererj Nicarai^an posada ; and
if any of my readers feel their inability to bolt the trio, the
sooner he or she caltivates their concerted-acquaintance, the
more proficient will he or she be in the science of getting
their money's worth in a toar through El Paraiso de
Mahoma.
We roased the household, and after a little delay, resad-
dled oar nags and left. The air was cool, the road lerel,
the Ban had not yet risen, and it was a delightful beginning
to a day which we knew fall well would be a " scorcher."
As we descended a short curve, we could see, tracing above
us on either hand, gigantic towers, turretted battlements, all
seemingly real, although but piles of rocks, and we felt as
though we were passing through a land of enchantment, so
calm was all around. No dust, and not a sound, save as a
timid deer, roused by the tramp of our mules, sprang from
his covert, dashed past us, and went leaping through the
glades. Dimly seen, outlined against the just flickering gray
dawn back-ground, rocks, grouped together, appeared like
embattled garrisons, and we were struck also with the many
narrow defiles which could be so ably defended by a small
party against a host, and wondered why such positions had not
been occupied by one or the other of the combatting parties.
The road is at times broad, smooth, and free from ruts and
heavy washes, aud for many miles there would be no difficulty
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A LUXURIANT COUNTRY. 133
in driving a carriage at a fair speed. It would require, how-
ever, bat very little outlay to render all the roads in the
State reliable; but while its manufactures and productions
are sufficient only for home consumption, it would not be
policy to incur this heavy expense. At length the road leads
us from the depths of dimly-shadowed forests to an open
country, where, now that the sun has risen, ve see finely
cultivated fields of maize, groves of fruits, marafions, jocotea,
nisperos, and mamays, while on the right hand the tall, feathery
palm, towers grandly up, with the calabash ladened with its
golden-colored burden. Beyond again, we find the cocoa-
nut peering out, with its heavy top bathed in the sun's first
rays; and a little farther on we reach cane huts and trim
gardens, that woo us to a hearty breakfast.
The cactus here grows to perfection. The fences are formed
of it. It grows to the height of from twenty to twenty-five feet,
and in circumference from twenty-five to thirty-six inches. I
have seen a variety of birds issuing from their nests in the
stalk of a single cactus. From a distance, you are surprised
at the singular appearance of these flowering fences. They
are so regular, ai.d so closely planted together, that it is im-
possible for a pig or dog even to find exit through them. This
species of the plant is very prevalent ; and another, the trail-
ing, or broad-leaved, is equally as singular in its immense size,
though it is not so osefuL After reaching the summit of the
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
184 nOABAOUA.
gligbt Moent before ns, we entered tbe Tilli^ge of Paeblo
Noevo, and sought a posada, wherQ, after a ride of five
leaguee, we were glad to rest, ere poshing on to Leon. We
had accomplished tbe worst portion of the journey ; the rongh
eonntrj was behind, and the fertile plain of Leon before us^
eoTered with forests, through which we determined to travel
at our ^ase, for tbe «daj wii» jfet jpouag, and we had no induce*
laeot ta hastaa. Our M friends, chickens, beans^ i^oru-imJcej^
and tiste, wece before vim, and we did ample Jnstice U> Uie out-
spread meaL
Tbe road bejond Pueblo Nuevo is broad and smooth, lined
with palm and odoriferous trees. The conntxj assumed the
features of havii^g been at one time well cultivated; the
forests are far from virginal, and the soil is j>johably of a more
loamy character than any we have yet observed. We are
now tw«nty-four miles from Leon. Ascending a bill some few
miles from our point of startii\g, through occasional breaks iu
,the forest, volcanoes loom up in the distance^ broad fields of
grass sweep U> the outUoed mountain^ wbile .clunks of tha
Btateiy palm rise up like landmarks ad the ^ast jilaiu of Leon
before -us. There is nothiMg to interrupt the view. The
country is all cleared, the road perfectly level, and on either
hand are well-made ditches, verifying the suggestion that, at oae
time, the soil has been cultivated. STumerous huts are seen,
And diuing the warm aftemooji jou gladly ^ek JLh^ein ahelt^
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LEON, THS RIVAL OF GRANADA. 135
from the sun, or refresh yourself, tfter a long ride over a
waterless road. Nine volcanoes margin and dot this magnifi*
cent plain, among which the most prominent are Yiejo, Telica,
Momotombo, and Orota.
We rode on, the towers of the Cathedral gleaming not far
distant, and oar desiee to visit the rival of Granada, aiid leam
the particttlaEs of the eurrent Revolation, stimulated as to
nenewed ^otU. Passing through the Indian soharb of
Qaadelape, we descended a ravine, and emerged upon a
broad, paved street into the citj of Leon. Everywhere, as in
Managua, we met detachments of troops. After a fow haltq^
and passing namevons barricades, we entered npon the plaz%
where at least two thoasand soldiers were training and
lounging, and where we found evidences in preparation of
an anticipated sally upon the enemy. We hastened to tlia
posada, and, after a ctrp of cacao, received the many friends
who thronged to welcome as, and sabsequentljr pi^d oor
respects to die American Minister*
The inhabitants dififor Irom those in the Southern Depart-
ment, being lighter in color, more dignified, and more like the
Hidalgos of old Spain. There is, in Leon, an aristocratical
air, a settled aversion to Granada, and a distinct selfishness
of belief in the superiority of their city, which surprised me.
I had never expected to find such nice, invidious distinctions,
drawn in this part of the world ; yet I found, during my stay,
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136 NICARAGUA.
that the Conquerors had left all their vices, a^d carried with
them only their virtaes, which, as they were bat few, they
conld stow in a small compass.
The soldiers were drawn up in front of the Cathedral as
we returned from our stroll, and I witnessed the evolutions
of a small detachment of dragoons — which I subsequently
discovered was composed of Americans, and a small body of
native artillerists — that would have reflected credit upon more
experienced soldiers.
The sun sank, and the rain began to fall heavily. The
rainy season had just set in, and we stowed ourselves away
in the house, where, in the society of the pleasant family
who kept the posada, we passed a very agreeable and de>
lightfui eve. From my host I learned much of the city
of Leon ; and as he reverted to Oranada, his eye would
brighten, and his thin lip wreathe with disdain, as he drew
comparisons, either between the towns or their inhabitants.
A jicara of aguardiente as we sought our ox-hide beds, and
lulled to repose by the pattering rain on the tiled roof, I soon
sank into a state of dreamy and blessed unconsciousness.
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CHAPTER XIV.
HISTORICAL INTBRLITDB — LOCATION OF LBOV — RUINED H0U8B8 — THE FLAm—
SUBURBS— CANE BUT8 — PIBATB8 IN 1685 — REVOLUTIONS — ^THB CATHKDRAL —
ITS SIZE, COST, DESCRIPTION— THE INTERIOR — THE OROAN — THE GREAT
ALTAR — PORTRAITS — CONFESSIONAL CHAIRS — GALLERY— VIKW FROM THE
BOOF — C0LLK6E OF ST. RAMUN — ^THB EPISCOPAL PALACE — THE ODARTEL-^
THE OOVBRNMKNT HOUSE — LA MBROBD — 0AL7ARI0 — RBOOLLBCCION—
STATUES — SUBTIABA — PLAZA AND CATHBDRAL — ALTARS — MARKKT OP LEON
— FRUITS — TRADE — STORES AND MERCHANTS— THE BISHOP's BATHS — PAR-
AISO DB MAHOMA — CLIMATE — THE BISHOP — BIS CARRIAGE — MR. SQUIKB—
A VIEW FROM THE ROOF OF SAN PBDRO— BAPTISM OF A VOLCANO — PLAIN
OF LBON — EARTHQUAKES — A VISIT TO GENERAL MUNOZ — HIS ATTENDANTS—
A TETE-A-TETE — A WORD OR TWO— HIS RESIDENCE AND FAMILY.
This citj was fonnded bj Hernandez de CordoTa in 1523.
Its original site was near the base of tbe volcano of Momo-
tombo, which, however, was abandoned in 1610 for the present
locality, formerly a large Indian village, Subtiaba, now a
manicipality of Leon. It is about half way between Lake
Managua and the Pacific, and covers a vast area, built upon
(137)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
188 NICARAGUA*
as in Oranada and Managua, though a finer class of houses
originally existed here, many of whicji are now shapeless
ruins. A few still remain, and those are not in the best
state of presenration. The principal entrances to some of
these edifices exhibit considerable taste and skill. Above
some of the portal-arches, the arms of the nobler class were
placed ; and altogether, even in the ruins, a grandeur is per-
ceived not met with elsewhere in the country.
The plain we passed over, described in our last chapter, sur«
rounds the city ; the land is fertile and particularly adapted
to the culture of augar-cane and cotton. Upon two sides are
ravines, through which 'fine streams of water flow, whence
the inhabitants are supplied; the article being purer and
fresher than that to be had in other localities. The suburbs
are composed of cane huts, some with mud, others with tiled
roofs. The city suffered extensively and frequently from the
English pirates, in 1685, whofiacked it, burned the cathedral,
the convent, and many of the principal edifices. Subsequent
to the Declaration of Independence, a war ensued between
the Serviks and the Liberals, daring which the ridiest por-
tions of the town weie destroyed.
A few of its public buildings are worthy of notice. The
Cathedral of 8t. Peter, on the eastern side of the grand
plaza, was commenced in 1706 and finished in 1T43, occupy-
ing thirty*(Seven yfiars in its completion, and is deservedJf
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THE GATHED&AL OV «T. PETSR. 139
called the Enest ediGce in Nicaragaa. Its cost is said to
iiave been from foar to five miiliuDS of dollars. Its frout
occofiies the width of the pkza. It is built of cut stone,
light in color. There ar« six or seven immense arches upon
the roof; and its stre^th may be better arrived at when it is
said that ten thoasaod jbroQpB iwMre been concentrated apoa
it %L one time, with no less than thirty ^^mtui of artillery.
Its ornaments are stuceo. The iatedor js chaste^ and almoal
devoid of ornament
The great altar, at the easternmost extremity, is .composed
of silveir, handsomely graven, though it has been despoiled in
the numerous contests. The side altars are plain and nn-
attruftive. Within a side room are many portraits of the
bishops, rather rude in exeeutlon and hai^h in color. Both
the front and rear were once ornamented with the Boyal arms
of old Spain, but these have been removed. Tlie confessional
chairs are placed in the northern and sonthenn aisles, but
were vacant during my visit A email gallery extends over
the main portal, and there I found An organ. The friend
who accompanied me, the fatbtf4n-law of >General Munoi^
asked me to peiform. I touched the kejr^y but found ita
voice harsh and discordant. It wanted tuning badly, and
had 1 had even a pair of pincers, should have volunteered
my services. At one time the wealth of the cathedral
was enormousi but at prisseot it is a jnasalv^ and elegant
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
140 NIGABAOUA.
edifice, which only at a small expense, coald be restored to its
primal magnificence. From its roof, the Pacific and nine
volcanoes can be seen ; the yiew is the finest that can be
obtained of so many remarkable objects at one glance.
The College of St. Ramon, founded in 1675, an university
of law and medicine, is to the left, and lilse many other public
buildings grouped below us, it has fallen, though efforts at
restoration are being made. Adjoining this is the Episcopal
Palace. It is built of adobes, has two balconies, tiled roof,
and was at one time a splendid residence.
The cuartel, or barracks of the Oovemment forces, is a large
building on the south side of the plaza, where are stationed
the troops, constantly on the alert, and in readiness for action.
The Government House is opposite, and occupies the entire
north side. It has a lai^e, raised corridor along its front,
and is higher than other adjacent buildings. It is built of
adobe, and beyond this is in no respect remarkable. The
churches of La Merced, Galvario, and Recolleccion, are fine
structures. The niches in the fa9ade of the Galvario are
filled with the statues of saints, and ornamented with panels
of scriptural groups. The Merced contains a few paintings,
and its altar piece is decidedly good. A convent, formerly
attached to this, has been abolished. There are many other
churches, though smaller, and more or less in progress of
decay. The municipality of Subtiaba contains some good
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MARKETS AND BATHS OV LBON. 141
buildings^ a fine plaza, and a cathedral second to that of
Leon. The interior is tastefnllj arranged. It has eight
altars, four or fire chapels, and many columns with gilt capi-
tals. Its proportion is graceful, and altogether I think it
the handsomest of any church in the country. From a city,
Subtiaba has degenerated to a municipality, and it is fast
"fading and falling away."
The market of Leon is probably better supplied than that of
Oranada. Pine-apples, melons, oranges, limes, lemons, papayas,
pomegranntes, plantains, bananas, beans, com, nisperos, jocotes,
and a rariety of other edibles, are clustered together upon
the northwestern side of the plaza every morning. The city
has but little trade beyond a mere supply of home wants, the
principal business being carried on at Ghinandega, two leagues
from Realejo. However, the stores are well stocked, the mer-
chants rich, and its Inhabitants generally landed proprietors.
The Bishop's Baths, beyond the ravine, on the western
side of the city, is a beautiful spot. There are a number of
stone seats and the remnants of pedestals, no doubt upon
which statues were once placed, grouped together under
arched, leafy trees. The baths were of stone, and I bathed
in the pure water at least more perfectly pleased than I did
when swimming in the Lake, for here I feared not the
shark nor the alligator. There are many beautiful localities
of a similar character about the city. The streets are paved,
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
14t MnxfriAoric.
tboQgfr, milite ttrose' in tfie United' Ststev, thef Incline tb tlie
centre ; channels am thus fbrmed fur the floods of water which
deluge the oitj during the rainy season, and the side^walks are
Iteft peifeotly dry. The city was styled by some of the ancient
chroniclers, ** Mohomet's Paradise," and truly it could be ren-
dered so at very little outlay. The climate seems purer here
than in Granada, the sun less Broiling, and the evenings
Cooler. The streels aro cleaner, mad for a residence, many
would prefer it on aoconnt of its puw water and- ganeni
healthfhlnesB;
The bishop I met ft^uently, in his carriage, returning dmm
a purveying tour. Ensconced behind a load of fodder which
completely filled the dasher and the fh>nt of the vehicle, you
would only hear his- snuffle a» he approached, or sometimes as
he recognised a^ passingp friend; He has been a great man,
and once wielded' a mighty power in aflairs of Statfe, but this
influence is passing away. Ais the Anglo-Saxon advances, the
shadow of ideality decreases, and: superstition must and will
give way to education and commercial intercourse with eulight-
ened nations. I will here leave the. Gity of Leon, for Mr.
Squier, during his residence, gathered every infonnation con-
cerning it, and has given it publicity ; the reader may rely upon
that writer's truthful and graphic description. Mr. Squier was
very popular among the inhabitants, and every avenue was
opened gladly by tlia natives to. his inspection. He. EUed his
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VIEW FROM TKB BOOV OV SAN PKDBO. 146
pnoBtr with Honor, and won for erety sobseqaent American tnu
Teler a ready and hearty welcome.
Standing on the arched roof, or rather npon an arch on
the roof of San Pedro, what an immensity of space reeog»
nizable lie» within the eye's grasp* This is a truly volcaiiic
vicinity. The volcanoes of Central America margin the Pacific.
Those of Nicaragaa, active or fall of being, with the extinct
craters, avB a» follows :, Joltepee^ Cosegnina, Orota^ Telica,
Siknta Clara, El. ¥iego (912 thoasaod feet high), Las Pilas^
A^ososeo, Momotombo (six tiionsand five hnndred feet high),
Man8gna> I^ndiri or Masaya^ Momobacho, Solentinami, Qnn*
acaure, Ganapepe, Zapatero, C^etepec, Madeira, Orosi^
Rincon do lia Yieja, Tenerio, Meriballes, Cemo Pelas, and
Abogado. There are fourteen volcanoea^ within one hundred
miles, standing- singly, and all abound with hot springs and
floods of lava, with other evidences of their vitality. It is a
well-known fiftct that new volcanoes are in course of formation
not alone in Hiis State, but also in other portions of the globe ;
and it i» not unusual in this country for some dignitary of the
church to be ealled. upon to baptize the new mountain, or to
^tKid godfother for it^ to bless it, and thus to endeavor at least
to keep the invader within proper bounds for the future.
The plain of Leon, at iu most elevated point, is from one
hundred and eighty to two hundred and ten feet above the
stfa: Tulcanic eruptions are more violent and perhaps I muy
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
144 NIQABAGITA.
add more frequent about the first of Norember and the first of
May, these being the entrance and the close of the wet and
dry seasons — probably more serere at the former date. As
many as sixty shocks in twenty-fonr hoars, continuing too for
several days, ha?e occurred, daring which the lightning flashed
with remarkable brilliancy ; these shocks are said to be strongest
daring the night.
I received a card from General Mufios, and having deter-
mined to call upon him ere leaving Leon, strolled forth one
morning for the purpose. I found his house a complete bar-
rack ; at least three hundred soldiers were in his garden and
about the corridors, and I received a challenge from every
sentry, even though within the casa proper. I found him in
his drawing-room, seated, studying a chart of the country. As
I approached, he rose, and warmly welcomed me. I had ample
opportunity — as he was reading a note just handed to him upon
my entrance — to study his features. I found them decidedly
Mexican. His brow was indicative of deep, rapid thought.
There was a certain decision in the thin lip, but a vacillating
energy in his nervous glance, which failed to impress me with
the greatness of the General, whose prowess seemed to be uni-
versally admitted. In person, he was spare, well-formed ; in
demeanor, gentle, and apparently confiding ; but it seemed to
me that where his interests were vested, there would he mould
himself; there was a strata of cunning in his nature, a want of
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
GEN. BfUNOZ — HIS BEAUTIFUL WIFE AND SISTEB. US
will, a seeking after, a courting of applause, no matter from
what source. It was the title, not the public good he sought ;
and in his conversation there was a world of leaven. Yet l^e
was beloved by the masses ; and the natives of Subtiaba. who
had fought and conquered the enemies of the State, followed
him, nor murmured at the decisions of fortune. Had he sur-
vived the revolution, Nicaragua would, without doubt, have
sought admission into our Union ere this, for the General at
least listened to some purpose, and could easily see the waning
apathy which pervaded all classes of his countrymen.
His lady and her sister were the most beautiful ladies I saw
in the country, and yet I could not trace much similarity of
feature to the many I had heretofore met. There was more
intellectuality in their chiseled features, more decision in the
eye, a subdued though accustomed tone of questioning, a
suavity and not the gravity of expression of the general class,
a rare appreciation of foreign elements, and finally a positive
knowledge of the true position of their country, which rendered
them to me the most pleasant trio I had met. His house was
furnished with a variety of elegancies, and many luxuries, all
of which were foreign. The walls were hung with pictures,
his book-case filled with rare volumes, his memory stored with
valuable information, and there was the cordiality and hospi-
tality of the most polished Southerner. Couriers arriving and
departing were ushered into our presencci either to deliver
10
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
141 mOASMVA.
apedal newH, or to reeeite prirfttelj floal order% wbieli hi no-
wise ditcompoted eitlier of tlie ladieg.
His sefiorm aft timeg partook of ki» lofo of ezcHement, and
wiilied abe were a maa to aid ber basbaod in fiirtbeH)»g his
^au fbr onaDoipatioii, and altlrongb rteader, and apparently
fragile, itill her deep-hned eje, gleaming witk inteiise fenror,
woald belie tbe apparent feeblenesB of her eonstitntion. The
Bishop Don Jorge Yiteri Y Ungo, who* was appointed in
1849, aided, and opealj conntenanesd Manos; and nanght
relating to ehnreh privileges throagbont tbe entire State was
transaoted wiUiont tbe espeeial permission of his Ezeelleocy.
An American, whose wife died after a short sojonm in
firanada, desired to remoTe her remains to the United States.
He was told bj the eitj anthorities that, ere they eonld grant
bim permission, he must hare the sanction of the bishop.
AlthoBgh the latter was known to^ fiiyor the enemy, yet his in-
flnence was nnimpaired in ehnreh matters, and the American was
eompelled to seek Leon, where, with the aid of Gkneral Mnfioz,
he obtained the consent desired. Had he £ftiled, he eonld not
bare remored her corpse.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER XV.
mrr OP »EOi^**HifTO«v-*-i>Bciua op AmnxxTtos to turn wnwrnn watvs-^
OORKTIT0TIOH ADOPTBD— ABOLISBMSHT OP PAPAI •DLLS, MONABTBRIBS —
▲BRID6MBIIT OP CBRTAIH BCCLB8IA8TICAL FBIYILBOBS — THB NATIONAL PLA«
— THB BI8B0P, ARCHBISHOP* AND HIS H0LINB88 THB POPB — VARIOUS WARS
•**amiBBAfc MOSASAll'-CARRBRA— ]IALBSPI»— CAPTSRKOP SAB JUAJI »T TiU
BN6LI8H — SAMOSA — ▲ KBIOHT — BIS RBVOLUTION — CApTURB AND DBATH—
DBATH OP MUNOZ — PUBSIDBNT PINBDA'S SUVVARY RBHOVAL — WALKBR — ▲
OBAHeS eOlIBB OVm BieABA«BAr-^TaOVftBTB ABB BPBCBLAflOVS.
Lbom bas been the scene of many severe and sanguinary
struggle^ especially in the wars between the Servile and
Liberal factions* The Senrilea of the States adjoining Nica-
ragua determined npoo placing the entire country under the
soyereignty of Mexico* with Itnrbide as emperor. Step by
step the battle was fought. Hopes long sustained in secret by
the Monarchists, found full vent. The Republicans were aroused
ficatat Saa Salvador^ Qoateaalai they adopted measures for
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
148 mOARAOUA.
defense and resistance, and defeated the armj sent by Mexico.
Granada was second in the field ; San Jose in Costa Rica, third ;
while in Leon, the bishop who favored the monarchy, opposed
repablican principles, and advocated, by threats of excom-
munication, the Mexican scheme. Battle sacceeded battle ; the
imperial forces were soon arrayed ; and the Liberals of San Sal-
vador, after a remarkable contest, were forced to submit.
In 1 822 the Mexican government was proclaimed in Onate-
mala, and by an Imperial decree the country was divided into
three Captain-Generalcies : the Serviles of course filling every
post of emolument, profit, or honor. Though the Liberals
were defeated, they remained true to their principles, and the
Provisional Congress still remained unbroken. It was duriug
this period of distrust and anarchy, that the country having
become truly and purely nationalized, this Congress resolved
upon annexation to the United States of America ; and by an
act dated December 2d, 1 822, decreed its incorporation with
the American Confederacy ; and yet true as this is, how singular
that our Government took no action in the matter. The dream
of monarchy was soon dispelled. The Serviles were beaten by
the recoil of their own magnificently adjusted plans. Iturbide
was dead, and without foreign aid, they could not sustain
themselves, while the Republicans assumed their prior position.
Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Guatemala, San Salvador, and Hon-
duras, determined upon an union of States, declaring themselves
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THE BEPUBLIO AND THB NATIONAL FLAG, 149
independent of Spain, Mexico, and every other power, while
Chiapas alone remained sabservient to Mexico. This decree
is dated Jaly Ist, 1823.
The Constitution of the Confederation was adopted in
November, 1824, in which was embodied the guaranties of in-
dividaal rights, the habeas corpus, the liberty of the press, the
represeutative principle; all of which, however, were com-
batted by its enemies. Titles and privileges of rank were
abolished, the sale of papal bulls prohibited, all foreigners were
guaranteed the security of their property, and the title of
** The Republic of Central America" was fixed upon, and its
national flag bore the device ** five volcanoes," and the motto,
"Dios, Union, Libertad." By a decree passed April ITtb,
1824, slavery and slave-dealing were to be heavily punished.
The Constitution, although published December 27th, 1823,
was not decreed until November 22d, 1825. Matters swam
happily on for a time, yet the Serviles, aided by the bishop,
were not forever quieted ; and although his party were in the
minority, they were men of wealth and influence; after a
time civil war again drenched the streets of Leon. For over
one hundred days, brother met brother armed for the strife ;
the richest and choicest portions of the city were burned ; one
thousand dwellings were consumed by fire in a single night,
and this butchery continued until the Liberals received a rein-
forcement from San Salvador. The church had openly arrayed
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
150 mOARAGUA.
itself ttgainst RepoblicMiisBi, mad the war was oae wbere
qoarter was neither asked nor granted.
Then from this chaos rose the light, the beginning of better
days. Schools were established which weve made free. The
soldier threw aside his knife and bayonet to hold in his brawnj
hand the primer ; and thas from a confusion of blood-stained
cliques arose the Independence of Nicaragua. San Salvador
deemed the power Tested in the State to choose for herself
her religions principles and its ^ttcponnders, and acting thereon,
elected or appointed one of its own citiaens Bishop of the
State. The Archbishop of course denounced the act, and the
Pope himself threatened excommunication, but it fell fruit-
lessly upon the ear— subsequently Oosta Brca followed San
Salvador. Tears passed away, when the Serviles prepared
for war, and the I'iberals, taken by surprise, were overpowered.
Many of their best men were brutally murdered ; finally, after
a union of the forces of Nicaragua, Honduras, and Guate*
mala, affairs were restored, while Costa Rica remained in her
mountain fastnesses, a calm spectator of the butchery and assassi-
nation of her sworn friends. Oeoeral Morazan, probably the
greatest man of Central America, certainly the man for the
times in which he was born and lived, after assuming the
leadership of the Republicans, determined to strike a blow at
the church, and thereby relieve his oppressed and bleeding
country.^ The Archbishop, and the heads of the monkish orders
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A BLOW STRUCK AT THE CHURCH. 161
generallj, Ite Oapachins, Domialeans and Franciscans, wer^
arrested, escorted by a military gaard to a distaat port, and
thence banished. The cofivents were pat to the nse of the
masses, and some appropriated for prisons^ others for schools ;
while the inmates of ^the nnnneries were free to go where they
pleased, and the fiiture taking of the veil was prohibited.
In 1S32, all laws recognizing the Catholic creed as the
faith of the jconntry were annulled, and freedom to worship
the Creator as each desired, was decreed by the several
States. From this confederacy, in 1829 or 1830, Costa Rica
seceded, and maintained a neutrality ; bat in 1831, when the
Kepublic was re-established, she re-entered. Yarioas events,
similar in character to those described, followed, till in 1838,
when a convention assembled in Nicaragua, and then and
there declared Kicaragna an independent Republic, and
framed its constitution. Honduras followed ; each, however,
sustaining the idea of nationality, and providing for the
resuming of their positions when there should be ^ confede-
rated reorganization. Tears sped, and the changes which
marked former times, still followed the successive periods,
till Morazan with his two Bons was shot at San Jose, in
1842, after a glorious struggle for Republican principles.
Carrera, his rival, thus swayed anew, till Malespin, a former
bandit, having conciliated Morazan^s friends, was placed in
power, bat subsequently went to San Salvador, and occnpied
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
152 NIOAEAOUA.
the command. Then a new emente occnrred, and Malespin
invaded Nicaragna, and after a most sanguinary battle at
Leon, was nobly defeated by a far inferior party. Nicaragaa
was again qaiet. A local insarrection of not mncb importance
soon transpired; then the English, in 1848, seized San Jaan
del Norte, and the battle of Serapaqoi, on the San Jaan River
was foaght. A rade fortification, of tree tmnks, limbs, and
boughs, was hastily made, and about one hundred and thirty
men determined to contest the passage of the river, their
arms, as I have elsewhere remarked, being condemned En-
glish muskets and machetes. The English, in number three
hundred, well armed, came up in boats, and after a fierce
struggle, with the loss of fifteen or twenty men, the Nicara-
guans were defeated.
This occurred in February, 1848. Then followed Samoza's
insurrection, in 1 849. He was a somewhat remarkable man :
brave, daring, dashing, full of humor, honor, and talent, and
yet singularly balanced. There was a recklessness in his
actions, a brilliant gleam of a hidden meteor through out his
whole life, a promise of a hero half fulfilled : in fact, he had
outlived his fellows. He was a knight, and fought principally
with his lance. He dressed dashingly and gayly, sang an
excellent song, told a good tale, and seemed ever intent upon
dreams of knightly devoir. In truth, he was a most extra-
ordinary lancer. He would leap from his horse while at a
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
MAHOMET'S PARADISE BECOME A HELL. 153
full rnn, and pick np a kerchief, or pierce an orange with his
spear, at the same rate of speed. He fenced well, was enamored
of the Americans, and raised this revolution in 1849, merely
because he had nothing else to do. He was feared by a
certain class, yet esteemed by the mass. He was taken in
1850, at the command of General Muiioz, and gibbeted at
Rivas.
In 1851, while Pineda was president, occurred that which
I elsewhere have written; and from that period Generals
Munoz and Chamorro were adverse leaders in civil dissen-
sions. The former was shot during an assault made by him
on or near Chinandega, and Chamorro died in Granada during
the siege of that city by the MuSoz forces. General Walker
then entered the arena; we shall detail hereafter his ad*
ventures. Thus, since the departure of the Conquerors, Ma-
homet's Paradise has been more like a hell ; and the country
which furnished Spain with wealth and luxuries, how has she
been repaid ? Every town has in turn been bathed in gore,
every foot of her soil has been the death-bed of some of her
children, and the vices of the early Spaniards have frightfully
matured.
I have sometimes thought, as I swung in my hammock
through the twilight hours, listening to the dark-eyed daugh-
ter of Granada, singing, or rather moaning her song, how like
a dream all this of the Moriscos, and then I would endeavor
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
154 mcARAQirA.
to recall their hUtorj. Thej left Spain, dkmembei^d, ft
teems for ever. Where fled they? Some to Morocco, to
Tanifl, otherB— where ? I have thought^ and breaking the
repose of the languor which would ever follow her song,
have asked: "Where did yon learn that laj of the Ctdr'
The answer w«s, "Oh, ny mother taaght mel" "And where
did she learn it ?" " Oh, from home I" Perhaps she dreamed
of that paradise forever lost to her, when torn from her race
by the barbarous hand of Spain.
There are many traits which remind me of the Moors : the
arrangement of the hair, of the kerchief round the head, thek
figures, the prond, stately step, the high cheek-bone, the deefib
earnest, piercing eye, the firm, prond lip, all distinct and in
no respect alloyed by the grosser, sensual form, mien, or gaze
of the Spanish race, or the admixture thereof. Would the
impure race dream of a fatherland, and recognize its history
in its songs ? I have been led to. this digression, for I confess
many, many times have I thought the matter over, and the
more I thought the more my mind became confused. The
liquid, minor melodies would find an echo in my soul, and
arouse memories of the Alhambra's gtirdens, her terraced cliffs,
her jeweled beauties, her noble, heroic children, and I felt
welling o'er my soul a kindred tide of sympathy, while I
clasped my guitar, to catch the echoing air, or perhaps only
the melancholy murmuring refrain.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER XVI.
tsoH — fttrferiABA — coimTRy — qvbsalouaqitb — thb descent — FRiriTi—
FV8ULTB6A— C1IICinOALPA-*«POP1U^tIOH — CpUlrTRT ^ITD PHUITS-^A PLBA-
SANT BIDB-^A CHOICB RSTATB^CHINANDBOA — ITS COWMBRCB AND INHABIT-
ANTS — OLD CHINANDCGA — BAD ROAD TO RBALBJO — RBALBJO — ITS HARBOR —
OOBTOM BOfrSB— DBPTB OF If ATRR— DOCKS AND WARBHOUSBS— CARDON-^
BAN JUAN DBL BUR — LOOATfON — SHSB — ^BARBOR WFROYBMBNTS — THB PAPA-
«Ar09~BRIT0 — COUNTRY BBTWBBN SAN JUAN AND VIRGIN BAT — ROADS IN
BAINT 8BA80N — VIRGIN BAY AGAIN — WHARP — TRANSIT COMPANY — RIO TIPI-
tAPA-^PASO OBICN>— 'PALLS OP TIPITAPA— DBPTH OP THB RITBR-^RIO GRANUI
— BURPAOB OP LAKB MANAGUA— DISTANCE PROM RBALBJO — CHONTALBS-^
PRODUCTS — MINERALS — WOODS — ANIMALS — LAND — STREAMS — CATTLE — AD-
TICE AND RBPLECTIONB.
LsAYiNa Leon, onr jonrn^y leads throagh th« sabcirbs
of Sobtiaba, and crossing a stream which nins laughingly
through an «rehed and shady nook, we reach wide-spreading
fields of corn. The road winds through open plains, and we
reach the woods after a toasting, and seek a ravine whose
banks are steep and hi^h. At the foot wo find qaite a streaa)^
(155)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
156 laOABAOUA.
known an Qnesalgnaqne. Tbe descent is circnitons. In sac-
cession, as we spur on, fields of pine-apples and corn appear,
and we reach a small Tillage called after the stream. Two
leagnes beyond, the road is broader, the country well wooded,
and we find another Tillage, Posalteg^ which contains a
dilapidated charch, and probably four or fire hundred in*
habitants. Two leagues farther, and we halt at Chichigalpa,
an ancient Indian pueblo, which although dilapidated, has a
population of five thousand. It is a pleasant spot, and just
the place for a month's recruit. The country is level, and sup-
plied with fruits. Th^ pine-apples, particularly, are very
luscious, the nisperos remarkably fine, and the oranges sweet
and cheap. A pleasant ride of seven or eight miles over a
well-shaded road brings us to San Antonio. This is a very
large and choice estate. It was originally a sugar plantation.
The house is commodious, well built, and well constructed,
besides having been painted. A foreigner I heard had pre-
viously owned it.
A short ride, probably a league, brought us to Chinandega,
which, if not so large as Granada, or Leon, is nevertheless the
most flourishing city in the State. It contains about sixteen
thousand inhabitants, and is truly the commercial emporium
of Nicaragua. The bouses are generally of a better class
than in other towns, although they are built of the universal
adobe, but with tiled roofs. Old Chinandega contains a pop-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
BEALEJO — ^iTS HARBOR AND WAREHOUSES. 15t
Diation of abont five thousand, and is sitaated apon a stream
which flows through it It possesses little of interest, save a
large old church, standing on a terrace in the plaza. A strange-
looking wall margins the terrace edge, and above the flights
of steps by which we ascend, are high arches, different from
any thing seen in this country. Chinandega is regularly laid
out in squares, and although in a level district, is an agreeable
residence.
The worst road, in fact the slipperiest, I ever traveled, espe-
cially during the wet season, leads to Realejo, two leagues
distant. This port is small, the land low, and most probably
is very unhealthy. The Custom House is located here. It has
a population of about one thousand or fifteen hundred. The
town was originally built nearer the water, though on account
of the numerous pirates who once frequented the coast, the
present site was chosen as being farther removed from speedy
visits and instant spoliation. Docks and warehouses, as also
depots for coal have been built, and the port is far superior to
any on the coast. The entrance to the harbor is protected by
the Island of Cardon, which is about a mile and three quarters
long, and so situated as to protect it from the boisterous winds
and heavy swells which enter the outer bay of Conchagua
from* the Ocean. The North entrance is about a quarter of a
mile wide, free from rocks, and has a mud bottom, and at no
point has less thar five fathoms of water. Vessels may enter
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
158 imAftMink.
one of these openings with a leading wind, from any point of
the compass. The inside consists of a ftne basin not less than
four fathoms deep, and two hundred ships at one time may here
ride secnrelj at anchor. Merchant fessela lie abovt a mile
from the entrance, in the branch of a creek. &|^site the p<^
there is a Une beach, the water being deep to ita rtrj edge«
The rise and Ml of the tide ia eleYeii feet.
San Juan del Sur was located in 1851, and althongh its
harbor is small, and man j specnlators discooraged the eapiialists
from any Inyestment in it in its early days, yet it has acquired a
place upon the chart of Nicaragna^ and is now one of its most
thriYing towns. There are a large number of broad streets,
some fine hotels, good houses, and altogether it is really North
American in its character. The Custom House is located hero,
and the Califomians returning to the United States have con*
aiderably augmented its resources; the depth of water two
hundred yards out, is about two i^ithoms. The entrance is
about eleven hundred yards, between promontories at least
four to five hundred feet high. The land is sandy. There are
ten fathoms water at the entrance, and the tide rises fonrteea
feet. The Papagayos, or rerolting winds, drive the sand into
onr plates as we sit at table, through oar clothing, iiHo onr
eyes and ears, and altogether, aside from its stirring char*
acter as a depot, and as the port of exit for travelers by the
Transit Route, it is far from being a pleasant residence. Lands
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
FROM SAN JUAN Dfii SUTK TO VIRGIN BAY. 159
are held remarkably high in the immediate yicinitj. One mile
North there is another port of aboat the same size, called
Brito or Nacascolo. The approach to this portion of the
coast for ships is extremely difficult during the season th»t
the revolving winds are in the ascendency.
The country between San Juan del Sur and Tirgin Bay ia
high, well-timbered ; and prior to the road now constructed,
the path between was in a truly horrible condition. During
the rainy season, many mules were killed by over-exertion.
The road was of a soft, slippery, clayey character, and very
frequently I have seen mules dashing along, their backs cor*
ered by the mud, and their heads only visible. Really it was
a swim through a muddy sea. Many travelers perished in
this short transit. The hotels at Virgin Bay were composed
of tents without floors; and for three coarse meals and a
sleep in a hammock, strangers were charged four dollars p^
day, and very frequently, too, were compelled to sleep in the
mud all night, or probably for a series of nights, when the
steamers did not connect. I have seen many extreme cases of
hardships which might have been prevented, had not a grasp-
ing monopoly governed all. In its lucipieDt stage, this
IWnsit Company was miserably managed; but shrewd and
careful officers succeeded in establishing it firmly. A wharf
was constructed at this point, and the landing of passengers
U effected with less difficulty than formerly.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
160 mCABAOUA.
In 1852, the steamers would anchor about three-quarters
of a mile from. shore, where a rope wonld be passed to the
land, and bj this an immense launch would reach the vessel
and return laden to the shore. The bottom of the Lake here
is hard and sheWing, and the winds often blow the small
schooners ashore, where, after much difficulty they are secured
and again launched.
We ha?e thus traveled through and around the State of
Nicaragua. We have crossed the country from the Atlantic
to the Pacific, have noticed the volcanoes, streams, cities,
towns, manners and customs, products, Ac, and reaching
Bealejo, wound round to San Juan del Sur; to complete our
circuity we must reach Oranada, whence we started upon our
tour.
Between the Lakes of Managua and Nicaragua, sixteen
miles intervene, twelve of which is a broad, shallow arm of
the former, called the Bio Tipitapa, or Estero de Panoloya^
which is from six to twelve feet deep. The banks are low,
and the bottom muddy to the head of navigation, about one
and a half miles above to Paso Chico ; the bed of the river
is supplied with streams, and rests on beds of rocks, a mix-
ture of lava, jasper, granite, and other stones. One mile
from Lake Managua is the Fall of Tipitapa, opposite which
is the little village of the same name. The falls are from
twelve to fifteen feet high. The old bed of the river is here
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
BIO TIPITAPA AND THE DISTRICT OF GHONTALES. 161
about three handred and fifty feet wide. From this point to
the Lake the bed is shallow and covered with rank grass.
A Tery small quantity of water falls over this natural dam
even in the rainy season. The alligator lies in the reeds which
line the shores, and every thing about looks desolate and for-
bidding. The Lake here is shallow. The banks of the Tipi-
tapa generally are low, and we pass many large cattle estates;
the valuable Brazil wood here is very abundant. The Rio
Grande flowing into the Lake does not increase it much«
which latter has a sarface of about twelve handred square
miles, and its distance from Realejo is about forty-two miles.
The Views from the boat as you pass op are very beautiful,
and the outlined mountains look charming; the setting sun
gilds with magical effect the rugged crests of Momobacho,
and lights with subdued grandeur, far upon our left, the hazy
outlines of the defunct volcano of Masaya.
Opposite Oranada rise* the hills of Chontales, a district
universally believed to be as rich in mineral wealth as any
portion of the known world. Mahogany, India-rubber, and
the Ebo, from which a valuable oil is extracted, are found here
in abundance. Rose-wood, Satin-wood, Cedar, Braziletto,
and the Nicaragua wood, one of the most costly of all dye-
woods, as also the Ceiba, or wild Cotton-tree, are all fonnd
wonderfully grouped.
Chontales is celebrated as a grazing country. The lands
11
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
l€t WOAAAOVA.
ire fertlfo, w«n watered, Mid are Femarfcabto {Murtittft fendn
The climate is cool and inTtgorating on the bills, while on
the plains the thermometer ranges from 64^ to T8^. It is also
rich in specimens of natural history. Mookeya, tigers^ a
species of lion, ant-eaterSr arma^llos, and sk>ths are frequently
foand, as also dtet la abnndanee. The mining di8Uiei», so
long over-looked, are being settled, and thwe ean exist no
doabt of the qaalily and qaaatiiy of its sllref, gold, eoppei^
a&d lead. The knds lying upon the atreaiss gradoally inolinci^
and ^oosands of fee cattle are seo» foamag on Um blll% or
heard lowing in the Talleys^ A most profitable bnsinesii
might be piffsaed by those who wonld oonstraci a large craft,
and freight the cattle down to Virgin Bay, where they could
dispose of the stock at highly remoncratiTO prieea Tbf
land HI thia distriet is probabfy more liko that of Bondaras
than in any other department oi Nicaragua, and it oertm^ly
Is healtbier than upon the plana of the intericf . Ghontales
InTites ^e stranger, and haa aban^boee ol hidden woi^tk to
tepay him for his coming;
Standing npon the beacb at 9ranad% the aye eompiehends
a glorions prospect. The many islands eotered with Terdure^
the towering and majestic Ometepec and If omobacbo, with
other giants of lesser magnitode, break the monotonous water-
view. The breakers rush shoreward with great force, so much
so, that it is far from being aa «asy teak tQ effset a dry laiad-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
TEMPTING OHidUfOfn 0t CHONTALEa liS
fng. (Mttg t6 tkeB« ^mrf gK»aiid4niislte^ Ihe iiMmboAto
and sail-vessels are anchored abont balf a mile from shore.
There is a constant breeze on tko water's edge. Qazing
eastward, are seen the roiling heights opos the Ghontalea
shore. I often wondered att so little being kDown respecliug
that region, although conjectares were rife as to its nnmeroas
deposits of gold and eilter. Many streams low from it into
the Lake, all of them apparently acoeesible fer boats drawing
two and three ftet of water, ^ef^ m^ ttonsrotts eattM
estates; but beyond these, little of « friable Mftme tan be
gathered as to its ftiaate weaHb of soA or tsincri^ Thi6
water is cooler, fresher, and deeidsdly pot^ thao at any
other point, except in the single iRStance of thct c^tainad
from the Kio Frio.
Why those glorious TiiRey^ and fidi sarvimMba tbcnild not
tempt the hardy and thrifty Anglo-Saxon, I canftoi ittagiaeii
A living fs certahi, for the banana ancl plantotn are iodtgc-
Doas, as atso the ntitrftioas and^ sweet oran^. A eomfettabk
cane hut can be soon erected, yegstatiott is sfsr^'blooming,
and the changes ef teaiperaUifs ate odthar soddea o? great.
A patch containing twe acres, plantsd wilb pkii^jbiiie alons^
woutd sustain a settlef, and bis labor would be rewat ded in
the vegetables he wonkl easily and spesdilf raise. The
markets of the country are but sparely snpplied. Th^*. eanli*
fiower, cabbage, melons, lettuce, beata^ tarnlps, radishes
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
1€4 moABAauA.
MlsUy, peti^ linm beans, iweet poUtoet, enciraiben, and
▼arioas other claases, grown in oar southern climate, woald
flonrish upon the plains of Leon, and in the neighhorhoods
of Managua, Masaja, Granada, and Bivas.
Nine^tenths of the settlers in new coantries neglect certain-
ties, and aTaricioaslj seek the mines for the gold, which is
obtained only bj toil and great privations. Erery iisefiil
parsait is neglected, and even comfort, too, in the search for
hidden treasures, which, when found, often prove disadvan*
tageons to the mass, by increasing the idleness of the finders.
Yery few, whether owners or operators, are wealthy, few even
comfortable. Those carving shores before us especially in-
vite the agriculturist In almost every city there are numbers
of foreigners, and the vegetables and melons not only would
find a profitable market among these, but the natives would
also purchase.
The mineral districts of Spain, and of North, South, and
Central America, are the poorest Where one man becomes
opulent, fifty are rendered the more wretched. The miners are
paid well, consequently they spend the more carelessly ; the vice
of gambling succeeds, and is established as a pastime. For
example, Capon, in Brazil, is celebrated for its topaz mines,
Villa Rica, the rich village, the capital of the province of
Minas Geraes, is reputed the richest in the country, and the
Cerro of San Antonio, is a place famed for diamonds ; the
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
AOBIOULTURAL WEALTH Of THE COUNTRY. 165
eoantrj snrronnding each of these is fertile, prodncing the
finest woods for cabinet-ware, fruits and Tanilla, and pos-
sessing plantations of cotton, eqnal in color and quality to
any in the world, yet their inhabitants are degraded. Little
can be expected from those who have been reared from
infancy to consider labor as degrading ; but he who will settle
in Nicaragaa, willing '' to take the chances," may rest assured
he holds tramps in the plow^ the hoe» and a civil tongue.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTEK XVIL
•miTTowv— TOPoamAFBT— izTBirr of mosquito tikkitokt— iin>iA« miBBi
— pope's sull— spaik's claim AKik kkolaiid's, also kmabaoua's— ^whosb
IS TAUD? — COROKATlOll OP A VOSQITITO KIKO — ■» DRBSS — THB DSB8S
OP ■» CRIBPS—BHOLISB OPPICBRS — THR KiR«'S DIOITIPIBD RARRBR OP BX-
PRBSSIRO BIMSBLP — BAPTISM — SUPPBR ARD PIBALR TO THR PARCR — GRANT
TO THR SBBPHBRDS— THBIR TITLB-~CQRTBTARCB TO TBI ORRTRAL AMBRICAH
COMPART— USVUra OP STOCK—OBJBCTS OP TRB COMPART.
Leaving the interior, let us descend the Rio San Joan to
Grejtown, or San Juan del Norte, where we may glean from
floating chronicles and " old inhabitants" something of interest
relatiye to that portion of country known as the Mosquito
territory or kingdom. It commences at Gape Honduras, the
extreme porthwestem part of the territory, and extends thence
southwardly to the said coast, including Boca del Toroand Chi-
riqui Lagoon, to King Buppan Rock, adjoining New Granada,
thence south west wardly to the ridge of mountains dividing the
two oceans up to the old Spanish lines, and thence northwest-
(166)
■ Digitized by VjOOQ IC
OONFUGTINQ CLAIMS TO THE OOUNTRT. l€T
wurdly, passing eastward of Tayagalpa and Matagalpa^ and
thence aorth to Cape Honduras, containing about seven
thousand one hundred square miles. From the earliest au-
Jientie period subsequent to the discovery of America, it was
inhabited by different tribes of Indians, the most warlike and
numerous of which were the Mosquito and Yalientes. They
neglected the tillage of the soil^ had made little or no progress
bi tiie ««rt8 of civilised life^ and had no fixed habiiatioofl, but
were a wandering n^e without a homc^ aubject to the prompt-
ings of fancy or neeesaity*
The followers of Cortes^ or Pizarro, who had over-run Mexico
and Peru, from the jeweled palaces of the Incas or Aztecs did bo|
seek these barren heaths or rocky recesses ; and thus with nougbl
to attract the avaricious Spaniard, it is averred the Mosquitos
maintained their primal independence* Upon the King of
Spain, by virtue of a bull issued by the Pope, the right to this
territory, as well as to the major portion of the American Gob*
tinent^ was conferred, as also to his descendants^ but as to iti
occupation, according to the principles of the Law of NationSi
there was nothing recognizable. Per virtue of the bull re**
ferred to, Spain ckiimed this territory, and said title was
recognized by Oreat Britain in the Treaty of Paris negotiated
in 1783; and yet Oreat Britain practically repudiated this
claim both before and since. For nearly two hundred years^
even to the preset hour, she has laaintM&ed the right of thf
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
168 NIOABAOUA.
Mosquito king to this domain ; and in 1848, when Nicaragna
iDTaded his rights, Great Britain sent a force to expel the
latter firom the eonntrj.
Bnt the question of the entire freedom of this coast should
be calmly inquired into ; for nnder subsequent acts of King
Robert, American interests became involved here. By a
decree issued in July, 1824, this country was also claimed by
the Colombian Government, and all foreigners were forbidden
to colonize without the permission of this Republic. By a
eonvention made between Great Britain and Spain in 1786,
tis true, His Britannic Majesty agreed to evacuate all this
eoast ; but as the Indians showed the same inveterate dislike
to the Spaniards as formerly, they, (the natives), were per-
mitted to consider themselves under the protection of Great
Britain. Here, then, is a power delegated by Spain to Great
Britain, for the guardianship of this people and their homes by
the party who claimed this territory, at that time, to the utter
exclusion of all other nations. Subsequently, Spain desired to
repudiate this jurisdiction, vested by her in Great Britain, which,
however, the latter refused to sanction.
Some of the Mosquito kings were educated in Jamaica. A
prior king, on his accession to the throne, January 18th, 1816,
desired to be crowned at Belize, Honduras, and orders were
received by His Britannic Majesty^s superintendent to gratify
his wish, and to defray the attendant necessary expenses. It
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CORONATION OF ▲ MOSQUITO KINGi 169
may be Interesting to give the particalars of this regal cere-
mony. Cards of invitation were sent to the different merchants
of Beh'ze on the previons evening, requesting their attendance
at the Court Huase early in the morning. The king made his
appearance in the uniform of a British major, while his chiefs,
in sailor's trowsers, were ranged round the room. The order
of the day being given, the assemblage moved toward the
church, His Majesty King Robert on horseback, supported
on the right and left by two senior English officers in the set-
tlement, the chiefs following after in double file. Oo the
arrival of the cavalcade at the church designated. His Majesty
was placed in a chair near the altar, and the English Corona-
tion Service was read by the Chaplain of the Colony, who, on
this occasion, performed the part of the Archbishop of Canter-
bury. When he reached that portion of the service where it
is written "And all the people said. Let the king live forever I
Long live the king ! Qod save the king I" the vessels in port
according to previous signal, fired salutes, and the chiefs rising,
cried out, " Long live King Robert I"
After the anointing, His Majesty, admiring bis finery, indi-
cated his especial gratification at this portion of the Service,
by thrusting his hands through his bushy hair, and applying
his fingers in an expressive manner to his nose Prior, how-
ever, to the chiefs swearing allegiance to their monarch, it
was necessary that they should profess Christianity, and accord-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
ITO mCABACHJJU
ingij, thej were baptised "in the name of the Father, Son,
and Holy Ghoat" They displayed the most total ignorance
of the meaning and intent of the ceremony ; and when asked to
give their names, they took titles of celebrated English officers,
auch as Lord Nelson, Lord Rodney, and others, and seemed
mach disappointed when iald Hk^ coald only be baptized by
aimple Ohristiaa iiaiaea.
After this modLery had beea con^aded, the entire aseembhHJpe
mdjonrned lo a large sehool*room te eat the eoronattoa-dinneiv
where the asnal healths were drank ; a&d the poor Indian^
king as well as sal^eets, intoxicated by Engli^ ram, sooir
found one common bod — the floor — truly a fit finale to a farc9
aufliciently kdicrous, could it have been divested of its blasr
^hemie eharscter. In the moQth of March, 1824, George
t*rederick, the father of this king, was stranded by his wife^
and his body thrown into the sea.
It may be asked, if the English. were so far interested as to
instal the king, and ia tlds coronation to deprive the chiefs of
their birthright and their own peculiar religions notions, by
what title did they so assume a sovereignty over them ? and
why was it necessary for the poor Indian to renounce his reli-
gion and embrace that of a foreign nation, with whose tenets
and precepts he was totally unacquainted ? Was it neces-
sary or vital to the assuming of the throne 1 Did England
then claim this territory i or was the JtfosquitQ QoskSt'9 99 v-
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HOW ENGLAND SET FOOT HEBE. 171
creignty inergcd in that of Albion's by the esponsal of Christi-
anity ? Truly ibese are vexed questions with me } like Truths
they lie at the bottom of so deep a well, that it seems nufathotn-
able, unless the result be unfavorable to Qreat Britain's interests.
The Mosquito Territory, renounced by Spain, and it is also
amid subsequently, by Nicaragua, was fir«e, entirely ifidepeudent.
Bhe had her king, and that sovereign occapied Its throne ; bat
Ibe needs of the Indians wer9 soch, that England* by her ad-
Tftnces of money and supplies, acquired a foothold in the prov-
ince, and a consequent ascendancy In the country. She found
^an Juan del Norte, favorably situated for commerce, at the
month of the Bio San Juan. She saw its future prominence^
changed its name to Greytown, and opon the same staff on
which flew the colors of Mosquito, soon floated far above the
Cross of Saint Qeorge. Thus England set her foot on the
soil, and from a money-lender and provider, became dictator^
or, as she meekly terms it, the Protector of the kingdom.
The King Robert Charles Frederick was crowned April 23d,
1825. In 1889» having become indebted largely to Peter and
Samuel Shepherd* formerly of Georgia, while under the reiga
of His Britannic Majesty, conveyed to them a Urge body of
lands, beginning on the south bank of the Rio San Juan, and
running south and east along the sea-shore, taking in the Boca
del Toro and Chiriqui Lagoon, and running thence up to the
rock cfdjed Kin^; SappaOt licUoiuing New Granada; from
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
ITS NIOARAQUA.
thence southerly to the ridge of the moantftins which divides
the two oceans op to the Spanish lines ; thence, neariy parallel
with the sea-coast in a northerly direction, crossing the San
Juan, and running thence to where the Bluefields' Main River
intersects the Spanish lines; thence, back by the northern
banlcs of Blaefields' River to Great River; thence by the
said river to the sea, and thence by the coast southerly to the
mouth of San Juan. It included all islands, and especially
Little Cow Island and the Island of Escuda de Yaragua:
containing in all upward of 22,500,000 acres.
This grant, made on the 24th of January, 1889, was sol-
emnly confirmed on the following 28th of November ; and as
set forth in the deeds of conveyance, was made by the king
in the presence of, and by the advice and consent of his chiefii
and head men ; and not only contained a cession of the lands
therein described to the grantees, their heirs and assigns for-
ever, but likewise stipulated for their enjoyment and posses-
sion free from taxation. It also conferred upon the grantees
the right of colonization, and provided for the exemption of
the colonists from the burdens usually incident to citizens or
subjects. The grantees were put in possession of these ceded
lands, as fully as it was possible for them to be of so vast an
extent of territory ; nor was their title, until lately, ever ques-
tioned by any claimant. The consideration for these lands
was part money and part provisions, needed greatly by the
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THE CENTRAL AfifSBIOAN OOMPANT. 178
natives, their tartle-shell harTest having been bat small ; con*
seqaeutly, the grantees having paid a large sam of money, and
having provided for the nation an immense supply of pro-
visions, the consideration was not a nominal, bat a fixed
and valuable one. Subsequently, however, the English con-
sular agent deprived the grantees, per force, of some portions
of the land.
By the maxims of international law, the lands belonging
to such tribes may be appropriated by any coterminous
civilized nation that has the power to expel the original
occupants, and maintain possession of the territory wrested
from them. Tet no possession, it is averred, has ensued by
any adverse claimants, and heuce the Mosquito flag is held
to be the virginal and valid symbol of the country, and still
floats from the, staffs at Oreytown, and Blnefields the summer
residence of the sovereign. These lands subsequently were
conveyed to eighteen gentlemen of the United States, who
organized a company, October 16th, 1855 , called " The
Central American Company," the stock of which was issued
valued at twenty^five dollars per share, each share representing
one hundred acres of land. The objects of the Company were
the colonization of the land and development of its resources.
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CHAPTER XVIH.
TAElOUl flBOUHDl— BHaLAVD PLATS BBS BAHI>--COLOirBL KIHHBT — Hit
TRIALS Alio HARDSHIPS — DBNOURCBD AS A PILLIBUSTBR— HIS BXPBDITIOR —
WRBCKIir« OP HIB TBSSBb — ARBITAL AT •BBTTOWR — ^RVRKIll* 99 aRBT<4
T»WB PRIOR TO RIB ARRITAA— RRSULTB ABD ALLBttBO CAU8B — PRESIDENT
PIBRCB'S DBCLARATIOR OP WAR — THB MIT8B OP BISTORT — COLONEL KINNBT
BLBCTBD 90TBRN0R — PRBAMBLB AND RBSOLUTIONS OP ttHt VKW ftOtBRlT.
»MrT**-0»RBTft ir f iW I > . B PPIORRB ■LBCTR»'-^fHB CRjmUL AMBRMTAB •OBPABt
At A DISCOUNT— KINNBT *S RKSIGNATION— HIB TISIT TO RAN AD A AND EX-
PULSION TBBNCB — WALKKR'S HMPTT BOAST — BALE OP THB GRANT TO THH
ItfOBHONB.
Bw«viSLM^ the residenet of i\m i^resent Mosqiuto kmg,
Qeoffg% WillMMft. ChMDoe^ k sUualed «ii » bluff suixoaiided
by m eooAlry ri^. la ^egelatioi^ and remarkable as weU for
it» seea^rj as f<^ \t» heailbioesa^ althoogh, at times, bis Majesty
occupies a hoase io Grejtowo. He is jonng, well-formed,
ligbter in color than the majority of bis tribe, is very agile
and muscnlar, wears the undress cap of an English naval officer,
(174)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
OOLONEL KISKBt AMB OOMPANT. ])§
tm9 H §^tAf»ffij MblMed whh hi^ tHIe and lot«! f^oeckMi tfom
want — his reqairetoents being attended to by the English gov*
ernment. Soo^e time subseqaent to the decease of bis father,
111 1S4), the grant made to the Messrs. Shepherd was denied^
In fact, revoked by the present king, acting aader the iBAtiga-^
tion of the English, based ttpoi» the followtog reasoning, viz. i
that the consideration was insufficient, that the grant was
fraudalentty obtained, the Sire being intoxicated, as also his
chiels and head oietv and that this intoxieatioa waa the resn^
ef a eeaspiraoy iipo» the part of the granteee^ The paesaai
toonareh not having veaehed his tBajoritj, the kil»gdoiB coin
valsed with threatened alarms proceeding from Nicaragua
proper, and the treasury exhausted, Great Britain became
the gnardian of the kingdom, as by thi» course alone she
could ever hope to be retarned her pecaaiary adrancesy and
It is under the prestige of such protection that she has main^
tained a certain qualified, bnt tru^ly inexplicable positiim m the
affairs of the eonntry.
The €ompany referred to, in o«r laat chapter, waa organ-
ized by Oolonel Henry L. Kinney, a well-knowa gentlemaa
of Pennsylvania, and based upon said gvaati which subse-
quently was purchased by him and other parties. From this
arose an expedition, rarely, in its results, trials, and exposures,
equalled in the annals of modern times. The expeditionists
were to have left Now York la the steamsbip United Slates,
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1T9 HIOARAQUA.
Md althoogh for months the Company were openly acl?erti8-
ing their objecti and desiring actaal settlers, at the very
moment of departure, the United States Go?ernment inter-
posed, prevented the vessel from leaving the harbor, and
denounced Colonel Kinney and party as fillibusters, and as
snch held them for trial. These snits subsequently ended
without credit to the prosecution.
Col. Kinney had apprized the President in person of the ob*
Jeets of his Company, as also of his contemplated day of depart-
ure, and the latter having broached the idea of colonization, had
also advised the former to lead the Central American enterprise ;
and yet, after immense snms of money had been lavished in pre-
paring himself and followers for the voyage, the entire expedi*
tion was crushed for a time, and Kinney himself denounced and
branded as a fiUibnster. Subsequently, however, with a few
comrades, he left New York in a small brig, and after being
shipwrecked near Turk's Island, and suffering many hardships,
reached San Juan del Norte, where his arrival was hailed with
enthusiasm. Thus the Kinney Union, surmounting every ob-
stacle, reached the point of destination, their avowed objects
finding an echo in the hearts of the depressed people of the
Mosquito Kingdom.
The Transit Company occupied Punta Arenas, a point of
land immediately opposite the bay, from Greytown; prior
to Kinney's arrival an emeute arose between it and the iuhab-
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THE B0MBABX>3fENT OF PUNT A ARENAS. 177
itants of the town, which ended in the Government of the
United States sending the sloop-of-war, Cyane, commanded by
Captain Hollins, to that port. The place was bombarded,
frame dwellings and cane huts were destroyed by fire, and
helpless women and children were driven from their hamble
homes, without shelter or food, to brave the inclemency of a
sickly climate. Many deaths ensued consequent upon this
exposure. The results of the conflagration visited alike, Amer-
icans, Spaniards, French, and Germans. A debt owed by
the little town, which could not be paid in twenty-four hours,
was the principal cause of this overwhelming affliction, and the
once flourishing village of San Juan was levelled to the earth.
Now that Col. Kinney had arrived, unwonted alacrity was
everywhere visible ; houses were erected, stores opened, hotels
built, and without exception, the new settlers were busy in re-
generating the fallen town, upon which the Government of the
United States had thus wreaked its vengeance. This act of the
Government found no favor with the country at large. It was
considered to be a declaratioa of war by a President without
the consent and advice of the Senate, which alone, it was held,
possessed this power. Against whom was this war waged ?
A weak tribe of Indians — a defenseless town, inhabited not by
Mosquitians, bat by foreigners, many of whom were Americans.
When the Muse of History, in after years, pores over her pages
stained with reckless spoliation, she will blush to meet this act
12
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
Itft MIQA&AQtJA.
recorded on her annate. Woald that she eonld drop a tear
thereon, and blot it ont forever.
Upon the <th of September, 1855, Ool. Kinney was nnani-
mooslj chosen Ciyil and Military Qorernor of the Citj and
Territory of San Jnan del Norte, or Qreytown ; and on the day
following, the ConTention reassembled, and the oath of office
was duly administered. The Preamble and Besolntions set
forth were as follows :
Whereaa, We, the people of San Joan del Norte, or Orey-
town, and the Territory therennto belonging, in ConTention
assembled, do recognize it as an inalienable right of all men
Hving together as a commanity, to secare for themselves pro-
tection of life and property, and the suitable maintenance of
order and good conduct ; and beliering and affirming such to
be A fundamental principle, without the sacred observance of
which 710 community can exist and prosper ;
And, whereas no recognized authorities, civil or military,
for the purposes above-named, do now exist in this place, to
the great detriment and drawback of its manifold interests ;
And wTiereas, from the urgency of the case, in view of the
tumerous recent additions to our population, and the large
numbers expected soon to arrive amongst us, it is expedient
and indispensable that a Provisional Government should be es-
tablished without further delay. — Therefore be it Resolved,
1st. That a Civil and Military Governor be chosen by the
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FBEAMBLB Ain> RESOLUTIONS. It^
people, to whom full powers shall be delegated for the appoint*
ment of such sabordinate officers, (except the Council herein-
after named), and the establishment of sach offices and wholes
some laws and regalations as shall appear to him best adapted
for, and the carrying of sach laws and regalations into effect,
the same to be done with the adTiee and consent of the Coancil.
2d. Resolved, That a Council, to be composed of five per-
sons, be chosen by the people, whose duty It shall be to consalt
with and advise the Governor upon all matters connected with
the public interest, and the consent of a majority of whom shall
be necessary to the appointment of any officer, and the enact*
ment of any law or regulation.
3d. Besoived, That the deliberatfre meetings of the
Govemor and Councf! shall be open to the public, unless in
the opinion of the Gorernor the public good should otherwise
demand.
4th. Besolved, That the Council be empowered by tho
people to draft a Constitution, which, after receiving the sanc-
tion of the Gorernor, shall be submitted to them for their
adoption by ballot
5th. Besolved, That the Pforisional Goyemment now estab-
lished shall continue In power until such time as It may seem
fit and expedient to the people to meet, and elect a permanent
one under the new Constitution.
6th. Besolved, That no Taxes shall be levied on the citizens
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
180 HIOARAQUA.
of 8aD Joan or GrejtowD and its Territory, withont the con-
tent of a majority of the citizens, being owners of Real Estate
or personal property to the amoont of two hundred and fifty
dollars, excepting soch inhabitants as have been residents six
months and upward.
Uh. Be9olved, That all foreign xessels (excepting Mail
Steamers), entering the harbor, shall pay the same port
charges as formeriy levied in this port, from and after the first
day of October next
8th. Be9olvedf That the former printed Constitution of
Greytown, or San Joan del Norte, shall be adopted as a basis
to govern the action of the Government.
9th. Beaolved, That nothing in the foregoing articles shall
be construed as depriving the people of their rights to assemble
together and discoss matters relative to the poblic good, and
to instruct the Governor and Council npon any subject affect-
ing the same.
We observe a freedom to be admired in the spirit of these
Resolutions ; the Provisional Government subscribed to the
former Constitution, which was modeled after that of the
United States, with few exceptions of trifling character. The
Inaugural Proclamation of Governor Kinney is high-toned,
succinct, and views the bombardment, the poverty following
said piratical action, and difficulties with the Transit Company,
properly and ably. Schools and churches were erected and
opened. Physicians, attorneys, merchants, land agents, and
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
OFFICERS UNDEB KINNXT'S ADMINISTRATION. 181
Others flocked to sapport the new administratioD, and Governor
Kinney's assamption of power was brilliant, thongh nnfor*
tanatelj brief. A printing-press was properly located, and a
paper called " The Central American" was published, the first
nnmber of which was Issued September 15th, 1855. Editors,
W. H. Young and F. Lewellyn. The officers of the Qorern-
ment were-^
Henry L. Kinney, Civil and Military Governor; W. S.
Thayer, Secretary of the Government ; J. R. Swift, Captain of
the Port and Collector; S. T, Haly, Chief Judicial Magis*
trate; W. H. Young, Attorney-General; F. Salter, Post
Master and Recorder of Deeds; S. H. Shock, Provost-Mar-
shal; Thomas S. Codd, Deputy Provost- Marshal ; John
Jackson, Surveyor; B. Wark, Constable; Thomas Cody,
A. M. C. Wood, Benjamin Mooney, Walter Sutherland, and
Samuel Shepherd, Jr., Members of the Council, of which the
first-named was President
The English Government refused to acknowledge the new
party in power, but consented, provided a re-election be had,
which should give no offense. Gov. Kinney resigned, and
other matters pressing upon the tapis, obscured the position
of affiairs upon this coast for the subsequent period. Illy pro*
vided with the means of sustenance, betrayed by the Associa-
tion with whom he had covenanted. Col. Kinney in vain looked
for the reinforcements and provisions which were to have been
forwarded by the organization in New York and Philadelphia.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
18S HlOAEAaUA.
Sick, poor, a itmnger in « itrange land, having spent his
means in the establishment of his Colony, one by one hopes
fled, and his men went to the interior to join another caase,
whose conrse was marked by blood-stained foattle-flelds, and
the silent hearths of deserted and spoliated hoases.
Had Col. Kinney desired to lead any retolntionaiy orgau-
sation, his opportunities for so doing have certainly not been
isolated. Overtares weve made him by the Nicaragnans
tiirongh their then Prorisional Chief, Don Patrim Bivas,
by whom he was urged to risit the City of Granada. Had
he desired to grasp the reins of QoTernment, ere Gen. Walker
bad been tempted to do so, Kinney would have occupied the
position of CommaDder-in-chief, by the nnanimous consent of
the nation. Costa Bica also sent deputies to confer with
him, entreating him and his followers to settle in its provinoe^
but he was wedded to his tract on the Mosquito coast. He
had sought it for a particular and distinct purpose, and the
improvements everywhere visible were endorsements of his
high integrity.
His subsequent visit to Granada, and his expulsion thence
at Qen. Walker's instance, reflects but little credit upon the
latter, whose boast to hang Col. Kinney proved an empty
one. Col. Kinney, after enduring many hardships, it is
niroored, has sold his Grant to the Mormons for two million
dollars, receiving an instalment of one tenth of the purchase-
money.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER XIX.
r
nrqABITAVTS of the VOSQITITO COAIT — ^THSIR intALTB — OLDTATK — ^IHTRODITO-
TION OF RBLI6I0N — THEIR OWN BRLIKF — BURIAL OF THEIR DEAD~>PR0DnCT8
OF. THB COAST— TUBTLR — ^BIRDS — FISH — AmiTALB — TINES— TREKS AMD
WOODS — RITBR8 — BXPLORATIOR OF UOIAV RIVER BT THB GOLPBH QLUB-t-t
A BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY — MAGNIFICENT FORESTS — BLACK RITER— OOLD— *
INDIAN RITER AGAIN — SHBPHERD'S RANCHB— GRAND FALLS — PROSPECTING
VOR GOLD — SUCCESS — DROVES OF WILD HOGS — NO COUNTRY FOR BNAKES-^
OAPTAUr WILKINSON'S PARTY — PROSPECTING AGAIN — RICH RESULTS.
The natives of the Mosquito shore, lilc^ savages of
other coantries, are distinguished for their apathy ; fruits
furnish them with sustenance, chief among which, are the
banana and plantain, and these are extremely nourishing. The
wild boar, deer, birds, and the fish, all of which are abundant,
su))ply their few necessities. Their wealth consists in a canoe
and its accessories; and protected by mountains and morasses,
with no accumulated wealth to tempt the pirate or the adveii*
turer, they are exposed to no incursions from without. A
(183)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
184 NICARAGUA.
hcalthj climate remores the necessity of clothing, while their
hnts are easily constracted; thns they have remained in a
dormant state, gradually decreasing.
The Dominican monks of Guatemala failed in the intro-
duction of their creed; the Baptist Missionary Society of
England sent one of their body there, who died, howcTcr, on
his arriyal at Belize, Honduras. The king has heretofore ex-
pressed his willingness to receive and protect any teachers who
might be sent. Of their religious belief, scarcely aught is
known, sate that they acknowledge a Good and Bad Spirit.
The latter is worshipped more particularly from dread of his
anger, and as they consider the former too merciful to injure
them, they plead this as sufficient palliation for their neglecting
to adore him. They bury their dead with the paddle and
harpoon the owner used when alire, supposing that the deceased
will need them in the other world to provide for his sustenance.
The many valuable products of this coast render its explora-
tion and development necessary. The Indians collect immense
quantities of turtle-shell, up the Coast, the Hawksbill species
being the most valuable, and from whence, if properly and atten-
tively pursued, this article alone would prove highly remunerative
as an export Turtles are abundant, and the expense is merely
nominal for the obtaining of the shell. To those who may not
be informed on the subject, we may add, that the female turtle
lays her eggs on the sea-shore, which she scoops out with her
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THE FISH AND BIRDS OF THIS COAST. 185
fio-like feet. She then scrapes back the sand over the eggs,
and the surface is made smooth as before. They are soon
hatched by the genial warmth of the san, and the little turtles
crawling forth from the sand, find their way to the moaning
sea with wonderful rapidity. They are of two species — one,
called by Linnaeus, Testudo coriacea, is an inhabitant of the
sea ; the other, Testudo lutariaf is found in fresh water, partic*
ularly iu the lakes and rivers.
Then we find the Thula, a species of heron, the ^rc^ea thula,
a name derived from the Chilian — it is entirely white, and its
head is adorned with a crest of the same color. Then, too,
the gray and red partridge, very large, though about marshy
places is found a smaller species. The chicken is said to
be domestic; it is smaller than in North America; this
may be true, since the hog and dog seem to be animals met
with everywhere, especially in the Islands of the Pacific.
Then, too, the wild duck, of two or three classes, as also a
species of water-hen, with armed wings, similar to the Brazilian
ben, called Jacana. The wing is armed at the joint by a spur.
It feeds upon the plains, keeps in pairs, builds its nest in the
grass, and is jealous of its little home, which if intruded upon,
it will defend bravely. This bird never makes any noise during
the day, but at night, when it hears some one passing, it will
cry. It is good game, equal to^ the woodcock. Then they
have the vampire, an acconnt of which we have given else-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
186 mcASAQUA.
where, together with bats, dacks, and a varietj of birds toi»
Dameroos to be recorded in the present Tolame.
Sea-cows, monkeys, and alligators are found in the Tariouf
rivers, as also the shark, the sword and black-fish, and an endless
yariety of the finny species. The sea-cow^ or sea-wolf, or
whatever may be its proper name, is similar to the sea-bog^ yet
distinguished from it by very striking characteristics. In Indian
Bi?er the sea-hog is abundant. It resembles the nrigne in
shape, hair, and manner of living, but its mouth is longer, like
the snout of a pig. Its ears are more raised, and the fore-feet
divided' into five distinct toes covered with a membrane. This
Fhoca is from three to four feet in length. There, too, the
porcupine is found. It does not differ from the Histrix prensile.
The cattle are not very large, but the meat is firm and juicy ;
the milk is rich, and a large quantity of mild cheese is annually
manufactured.
Of the climbing plants, an abundance are found. Among
others is one similar to the copiu ; its flowers are composed of
six petals three inches in length, of the most beautiful crimson,
spotted within with white. This plant creeps up the tallest
trees ; its leaves are disposed by threes, are of a beautiful green
color, and oval in shape. The fruit is about an inch in diameter,
ejlindrical, of a dull yellow color, and contains a white, tender
pulp, pleasant to the taste. The passion flower, the sensitive
plaut, which is very large, the caracol, the sarsaparilla, and
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
OLIfifBINO ThASTA MXD QBASSES. 18T
many speciw ^ the French lianes axe discovered. A vine
foand everywhere as yon ascend the Rio San Jai^, noticed
in our first chapter as falliiig from tree-tops to the «arth, and
then creeping op again, weaving a mesh of imperviable net-
work, resembles in its flowers the copiu. It climbs without
attaching itself. It prodaces a leguminoos pnrple flower. It
can be used for making hedges, baskets, or for cable for
bnngos^ much more efficient than hemp, for it is capable of
resisting moistnre for a longer time.
The grasses «re numerons, a&d the rushes grow to the
height of four feet ; from a certain species I made a* basket
which held water. Tobacco is of two kinds, the cultivated
and wild. It is strong, highly-flavored, but is badly cured.
The medicinal plants are very numerous, as also the herbs
used in dying, and the alimentary plants or herbs are as
abundant as the most ardent student could desire. I have
met also with the rosebush, which, however, I cannot believe
to be domestic, but» as it was introduced into Peru from
Spain, its presence, here, no doubt, is sufficient evidence of
its Hispanian origin. The domestic animals live in the fields
all the year round, and from feeding on aromatic plants their
flesh acquires a peculiar and pleasant flavor. The plains,
valleys, and mountains are covered with elegant trees, each
season producing new herbage in great perfection; and from
the uniform^ genial climate of this section, there is no doubt
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
188 VIOA&AQUA.
that all the planta of oar latitude coald be calti?ated tbeiv
without difficaltj.
Prior to entering into a view of the minerals, it were well
for as to tarn to Indian Ri?er, which has been partially ex-
plored, and as the accoant has not been pnbliclj given, it
may interest the reader. The Rio Escondido and Great
River are both considerable streams, and flow throagh a
country of surpassing fertility. These lands so rich have the
advantage of an outlet to the sea, through which their pro-
ducts m8y be carried to marlcet^ even prior to the opening
of roads. There are several rivers in the southern portion
of the territory, and they all abound with many varieties of
fine fish. Pearl River, Aula Tara, Rio Grande, Prizapalka,
Boshwash, Rain River, Rama, Corn River, Spanish, Indian,
Escondido, Tauro, San Juan, Rio Colorado, Juauilla, Serapa-
qni, Estero Real, Tipitupa, Ochomogo, Gonzales, Sapoa, Nino,
Zapatero, Rio Frio, Poco Sol, Melchora, Salvatos, Sarmosa,
Machnca, Chorrsa, Francisco, Cruz, San Carlos, Las Miras,
Guaspore, Tepanagnasapa, San Rafiel, Burro Negro, Mayales,
Teculostote, Malaxoge, Metape, Papatnro, and Coco: these
are the streams found on the face of Nicaragua, embracing
the Mosquito Coast.
Little or nothing, or literally nothing reliable, can be col
lected relative to the expeditions formed prior to 1855, for the
exploration of Indian River, although in this same year
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
XXFLOBATIONS OF THB GOLDEN CLUB. 189
several companies ascended probably twenty or twenty-five
miles, meeting only with hardships, being illy equipped, and
provided scantily with provisions. The report of the miners
bearing the name of '*The Golden Club/' we shall insert.
This Company was composed of six gentlemen, commanded
by Captain S. H. Shock, of Philadelphia. "The first day's
journey from Qreytown was not characterized by any event
dififering from a plain travel over a known region of fertile
land and rank vegetation. Twelve miles from the mouth
of Indian River, however, the aspect of this country changes
entirely, becoming extremely beautiful, which for variety of
landscape equals any known portion of the Isthmus. Numer-
ous plantations, old and new, are seen on and near the banks
of the river ; some of which," says the historian of the Com-
pany, for I have his report before me, '' seemed as if the owner
cared little in reaping to reimburse bis labor, so heavily were
the trees laden with fruit, showing the more to advantage in
the want of the undergrowth, so ruinous where there is no
attention given. Some localities, selected by members of our
own band, may be seen as the path gradually winds into the
forest, lined with lofty cedars, oaks, mahogany, and all other
descriptions of timber to be found in tropical regions.
''Upon proceeding about thirty miles up the stream, we
found our instructions reqnired us to change our course to
the left, up Black River, leading as further into the interior,
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
where, to all appearance, mortal foot had neTer before
trodden, but to onr surprise, the coantrj was still the same
in variety of landscape and apparent fertilitj of soil. The
river is narrow, and its banks high and sloping, across
which, ftt mhnj places, heavy pieces of timber had fiillen, ob-
structing our progress much. We concluded, after a halt,
that the party should here separate, a part to proceed as far
up as practicable, the others to remain. Those who ascended
the river forced their way, twelve miles, through dense foliage
and over high, rugged banks, making a distance of fiftynteveii
miles from the mouth of the river. Here they found high
falls, and after a short prospecting, obtained some gold. This
was in the midst of the rainy season, and they were nnable to
perfect their examination, as well on accoent oi the high
stage of water, ae their short stock of provisions and insufi-
cient Implements of labor. We Joined the waiting party, and
began to descend to Indian River, following its conrse, whence
we turned to the left, which was the proper route, and the
one pursued by Captain Wilkinson's party, which had preceded
us a few days.
'*0n entering the'right trail, we fonnd at onr several camp*
ing places, for some distance, a scarcity of game, and at
intervals deserted Indian ranches. Shepherd's ranche, on
the river, was tlie best camping spot we had, and near this
we discovered several deserted plantations. The sceneiy
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
INDIAN BrVlBB AND OftAND FALLS. 191
became broader and more beautiful, as we proceeded, the
timber finer and more lofty, and we observed a total absence
of undergrowth, enabling us to view to greater advantage
the mountain scenery, valleys, and glens, so sweet to all lovers
of Nature. On leaving this ranche, the jonmey becomes
picturesque in the extreme, there being a continuation of
rapids until our arrival at the Grand Falls. Here pilots be-
came essential. This is one of the most particular points to
be observed by parties who may feel inclined to visit the
mines in this district^ the difficulty of the passage over the
rapids rendering great care necessary, as the least want of
skill on the part of the pilot might endanger life. The canoes
should be unloaded at the foot of the Falls.
'' Moving onward, the scenery becomes grander, and from day
to day the cataracts and falls, with the picturesque landscape
aronnd, present to the eye something to be admired beyond
description. The total absence of musquitoes, the freshness of
the water, which in coolness almost equals ice, suggests
healthiness and comfort; our journey, although slow and
difficult, has been a pleasant one. We observed the camp of
Captain Wilkinson'is party ahead, and soon shook hands with
nndisguised pleasure with our friends. The further ascent of
the river being considered very questionable, we selected three
of the combined party to prosecute it, having provided them
with rations for ten days. In the interim, the remainder of the
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
192 mCABAQUA.
party prospected on a gravelly beach, between two large fulls or
cataracts, in the neighborhood of oar encampment. We com-
menced operations, but foond the water too high for effecting
a fair test of its yielding capacities, although we shovelled up
five pans, all of which were proved, and gold was obtained.
" The river subsided slightly, and we again tried the gravel
bar. We dug a hole four feet wide, twelve long, and six deep ;
this brought us to the rock, where we found each pan to yield
ten cents value in gold. That found on the sands was simply
drift. The river commencing again to rise prevented us from
reaching a spot where not a doubt could exist of our being
amply repaid for our exertions.
" We expected to receive from the party who had left us, very
favorable reports, which would induce us to abandon the idea
of digging ; until they arrived, the water being now too high
for prospecting, we turned our attention to exploring the
valleys, hills, nooks, and dells in our neighborhood, in all of
which we found cedar timber in abundance, the trees ranging
from fifty to seventy feet in height, without a single knot or
limb intervening, plenty of dye-woods, and beautiful table-
land, though the continuance of heavy rain prevented our
making as full an inspection as we could have wished. We
did not find, in any case, gold in any of these Yalles. We met
with an I^idian trail of recent date. Indian River affords a
plentiful supply of fish of the finest quality. The stone-bass
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CIONOLT78ION OF THE GOLDEN CLUB EXPLORATIONS. 193
in this yicinitj has the preference. I may mention the almost
entire absence of snakes in this region also, which may be
attributed to the large herds of wild hogs roaming about-*
as many as three hundred being frequently found in a dro?e^-
the Mountain Cow, Curacoas and Deer, are also to be found
in great quantities.
'* Upon our return to camp, we were surprised to find our
friends already there. They reported, that after five days travel
through forests of cedar, they arrived near the bed rock of the
river. Here they found formations of slate and granite, and
on scooping np a handful of sand from this, it yielded twenty
eents of gold to the pan. From their inability to take with
them a supply of shovels, long-toms, or other utensils, with the
danger of too frequent exposure at this season, they were com-
pelled to relinqnish further developments, and rest satisfied
with the result already attained. We had journeyed Ojue ban*
dred and twenty-five miles to where our prospects were fully
realized, and deciding to return in December, during the more
propitious season, we promised ourselves, with all eonfidiNiee,
a full field for our labor."
13
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER XX,
WAB ni nn nrBBioB^wmD statbi kauhal ih a fix — abritaii ov
•■V. WAUUR — BATTLB OV TIBOIV BAT — DBFBAT OF OUARDIOLA— tUBia*
qvmat battus — ^walkbb'b truthphaiit bhtrt i9to oramada — trbasoh
ABD in pvhibbmbht— bcblbbbihobr burpribbo at guabacabtb— cbargbd
Wm TRBACBBRT~HI8 TRIAL, COBBBBBATIOB, FLIGBT, ABD BBHTBHCB OF
BBATB—BATTLB OF BITAB — ^WALXBB AOAIB TICTORIOUB — IRAUOURATIOB OF
OBABOBBO— A BIBB BOBTBB' BIBOB— BIB BBATB — BBTRADA BIB BUCCBBBOB^
FADBB TIOIli'B LBTTBB TO BB. BABCT— BT OPIBIOB— BBVBIHOSBB'b OLORIOUB
BBFBBBB OF OBABADA-^ATTACB OB BAH JOROB — GALLABT COHDITCT OF OAPT.
■fOBT — SAB /0R6B AOAIB — TBB CABHOHADB — 8BARP OPBRATIOB OF TBB
OOBTA BICAB8 — OAPTURB OF CASTILLO— KB6LIBB AMD ABEBICAH OFFICBRS^-
WBAT WALEBR BAD TO COBTBRD WITB — BYACUATIOB OF TBB COUHTBY-^
OFFICIAL BBPOBT OF WALBBR'B F0R0B->TBB BBBULTB OW TBB IBTABIOB.
Ws must now tarn to the interior, for since Col. Kinney
and his lands have been receiying onr attention, the revolution
in Nicaragua proper has grown desperate and stirring. The
Liberals invited foreigners to aid them in destroying the power
of the Servile faction, and on the 4tb of May, 1855, Gen.
(IM)
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WALKXR^S VICTORY AT YIBOIN BAY. 196
Walker, with fifty-eight men, arrived at San Jnan del Sor.
The United States Marshal had interposed to prevent his
vessel from sailing, when Waliier finding that further delay
wunld only be adding fuel to the flame, invited him into the
cabin, feted him with wines, and daring the t^te-^-tSte, the
anchor was weighed, and the government officer awoke to the
consciousness of being on his way to an unknown port. How-
ever, with a delicacy peculiar to the moment, the General
advised the officer of his position, and after a few friendly ex-
changes, sent him back to San Francisco, while thi& vessel
sought the coyal palm-groves of Nicaragua.
The Serviles learning of his arrival, immediately marched
from Rivas, and attacked him with four hundred men. In vain
the advancing columns of the enemy strove to break the serried
and firm front of this invading, friendly force ; in vain, Guar-
diola cheered his men to the attack ; in vain, the loud shriek
of the swarthy islander or the deep cry of the mountaineer ;
the deadly rifle, handled by willing hands and able men, swept
death and devastation through the enemy. Walker's loss was
one white man and four natives, while Guardiola lost fifty of
rank and file. The enemy charged again, but Walker, at the
head of his small battalion of reserve, rushed to the rescue, and
swept the blue and white flag of Nicaragua from the field.
The foe were routed, and the moon rose upon a battle-field far
bloodier than those foaght between the Serviles and Liberals
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
heretofore, wMle die lighted to the dietMit shelter • brokev
and dispirited band of harassed and wouoded soldiers. Thus
was foQgbt the first regular battle, and from that field the
banner of Libertj arose rebaptixed and regenerated.
Shortly after the baUle of Virgin Bay, Gen. Wailier returned
to San Juan del Snr. The Oovemment, of whieh Don Jose
Maria Estrada was the President, demanded the arms and am-
munition in the possession of the Transit Company. These
consisted of four cannon, forty-eight mnskets, and a large sup*
ply of cartridge shipped from New fork by this Company^
and landed at the Castillo Bapids^ for the nse of the forty-eight
soldiers, or, as they were termed, ** Invineibles," who had been
sent out to eonnteract an influence which was praponderating
against them. The arms and ammunition were on board the
steamer Virgin, at that time lying off Oranadai.
Battle succeeded battle — step by step the strangers advanced
into the leonntry. From a small detachment of eighty, the
ranks were soon swollen to hundreds. The Liberals flocked
round their new chief, upon whose banner victory sat*^
the inflnence <^ Walker was at once felt He summarily
punished defections in his nmke, whether among the American
or native troops, tili every man felt there was nothing left but to
obey and execute. The city of Granada, which had so long
wfthBtood the Liberal party, yielded to the new-comers, and
the entrance of Walker, October iSlh, 13^55, was bailed with
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
OEN. COBRAI/ AOCtSED OF TREASON. 19T
enthasiwua. The church bells welcomed him, and etetywhere
banners and handkerchiefs waved in his honor. The Serviles,
now grown desperate, called apon the adjoining States for
assistance, bat the knell of Monarchism had been sounded,
and the former friends of this once powerful party heeded not
the invitation.
A truce ensued, however, between the rival forced. Oen«
€orral, the most pfomioent officer of the so-styled legitimate
Ooveffiment, and chief of^the hostile forces, bad, prior to thi»,
tatified Walker's triumph in the church, and had sworn friend*
ship to the new Qovemment, of which Don Patricio Ritas
was, by virtue of said treaty chosen President, or Provisional
Chief. He now dispatched a letter to General Oaardiola, who
had flown from Oranada, representing that affairs under the
laanagement of Oen. Walker were tioC being properly eon-
ducted. He also appointed a certain time for Gnardiola to
invest the city with his entire force, when Walker, unprepared,
tntght be taken by surprise, and his mefi put to the sword.
This letter having been intercepted, and delivered to Oen.
Walker, a eivil and military tribunal was formed, and Gen.
Corral was brought to trial on a charge of treason against
the then existing Government.
It has been stated, that after his trial he confessed having
written the letter. He was found guilty and condemned to
death. He wae brave and intelligent^ a man of warm attaeil-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
198 HIOAaAGUA.
ments and generons disposition. The Minister from Nica*
ragiia, Padre Vigil, besought his pardon with all that eloquence
which distinguishes that truly good and merciful-hearted man,
but his doom was sealed. He was shot on the plaza, and
died universallj regretted, leaving three sisters, whom he had
rerered and lo?ed, in indigent circumstances to mourn his un- -
timely loss. The entfre country was shocked upon learning
of his condemnation and death, and even the friends and sup-
porters of the Cause felt that the stroke had been too hasty
and severe, and for a time it is said even Walker himself shared
the same opinions. But to succeed, treachery must be 8um<r
marily punished. This decisive blow was succeeded by bat-
tles, and the incoming of recruits soon erased the gloom of
the late execution.
Costa Rica, in the interim, declared war against Nicaragua^
and ere the news had fairly been flung to the breeze. Walker
had a detachment on the march to the former State to meet
the foe on their own soil. Col. Schlessinger commanded this
arm of the force, and after marching to Ouanacaste, allowed
himself to be surprised while in fortification, and many of
his men were butchered. Three thousand Costa Ricans, fresh
in the field, swept after the broken ranks of the invaders, and
straggling over hills and mountains, through morasses and
swamps, the shattered remnant of Schlessinger's command, in
a state of utter exhaustion, finally reached their Commander-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WALKER MARCHES UPON RIVAS. 19f
in-Chief in Granada, to accuse Schlessinger of treachery, neg-
ligence, and general imbecility.
Sabseqaently, the leader of this unfortunate expedition
found his way to headquarters, but his soldiers had already
been heard, and charges were preferred. A tribunal was
enmmoned, and Schlessinger, who had the patrol on honor
of the city, escaped while his trial was pending. Sentence
of death was pronounced upon the traitor if found on the
territory of Nicaragua, and his infamy was published to the
world.
The army of Walker heard of the adyance of the enemy
with impatience, and at the head of about eight hundred men,
well armed, but illy ammunitioned, the Commander-in-Chief
marched npon the city of Bivas, where the Costa Ricans,
three thousand strong, were posted. The latter, commanded
by foreign officers, well-armed with Minnie rifles, and flushed
with their late Tictory, expected an easy prey. Street by
street was fought through, barricades were overthrown, houses
fired and sacked, carnage reigned supreme, and the best and
bravest of Walker's army fell dead on that eventful day. Stilly
the threat of Costa Rica to shoot every man found with arms
upon his person nerved even the most timid. To retreat was
certain death, to be conquered instant execution ; and between
the two tliere seemed nothing left but to battle on against
tremendous odds.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
loo mOABJLQVA.
The foreign officers of the Costa Ricans displayed much
military skill, and the troops ander them executed their com-
mands efficiently ; hot the cool, andannted American, who ad-
Tanced to the thnndering cannon, while yet the smoke kissed
its warm lip, this to the foe was beyond all conception. The
enemy retreated, pierced with the bullets of the sharpshooters,
till the evening drawing on, and the ammnnitiop of the Nicara-
gnans getting low, the army amassed, and after beating th^
enemy from every tenable position, coolly reti^ated #ith colore
waving and drnms beating. Walker's loss in the engagement
WaK abont eighty*five, while that of the enemy wiis from six^
to eight hundred.
Walker marched to Granada, leaving the CostA Ricanif^^^^
fo nurse their wounded, bury theif dead, and to manage A
fetreat attended with unexpected and unlooked-for disasters.
Instead of interring their comrades, they threw their bodies
into the various wells of the city, and froiH the decaying
corses emanated sickness and choleta, which thinned, wftii
feaffnl tepidity, their broken ranks. They reached San Juai!i
del Snr, and hastily embarked, leaving behind many of theit
sick and wounded, with a total loss of at least one-third their
original number.
We shall now refer to the inauguration of Don Prnto
Chamorro as Director of Nicaragua. It has been stated in
political circles at Washington, by those high ill authority.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
OHAMORRO'S FLIGHT TO GRANADA. i6i
tA also, I believe, by Don Aagustio Yigil, then Minister from
Nicaragua, "that this step was the commeneement of the
storm ; that Chamofro began to show his tendency to despo-
tism, and asarping the sacred rights of the people who had
elected him, commenced to forge the chain of their misfor-
tunes. Fearing, however, a number of the citizens who were
adverse to him, he commenced criminal proceedings agaidsi
fhem. The greater part of these citizens were Liberal Mem-
bei*s of the Constitaent Assembly, which bad cofiTened fof
April, 1S54, and who possessed too much integrity to TOte
away the liberty of the Republic. Among tfaem were Dob
Francisco Castillon and General Jerez. These, with otheni»
Were impiisoned, aAd banished subsequently to Honduras.
"General Jerez, at the head of a few men, returned, however,
and at Chinandega organized a Provisional Oovernnaent.
They then marched to Leon, where Chamorro had his camp,
<tnd as soon as the forces met, the army of the latter went
dvef to Jerez. Chamorro fled to Ofa&ada, and by sacrificing
the wealthy portion of the citizens, he assembled a fo^e of
one thousand men, and stood a nine months^ siege on the
plaza, during which time the most beantiful portions of the
city were destroyed. The Provisional Government was com-
pelled to raise the siege, and invited American citizens to aid
them. Ninety of them responded to the invitation, and be*
eatae natoralized citizens of Nlcaragna
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
802 MIOARAQUA.
"Chamorro died, and Don Jose Maria Estrada was ap-
pointed his snccessor ; thns, (sajs the Padre in his letter to
Mr. Marcy of May 14th, 1856), did the Constitnent Assembly
trample on the very constitution and charter they had made
but a few days before, arrogating to themselves the ordinary
legislatire power. This," farther adds the Padre, "is the
style of government which has been styled legitimate, and
which was not and conld not be so accorded to the Constitu-
tion of that State, because Chamorro's term of office having
expired, only the people of Nicaragua, represented by the
JuRtas of the Departments, and never the Assembly, ought to
have appointed the successor."
After entering the city of Granada, as before stated, the
Government of Estrada being overthrown, the Padre says:
" The new Government invited General Corral, the chief of
the hostile forces, to a conference; this oflScer being fully
authorized by the late Government, they agreed to appoint a
Provisional chie^ for which Don Patricio Rivas was selected,
and General Walker, General-in-Chief of the whole military
force of the Republic."
The worthy Padre has offered, I fear, but sorry reasoning for
the subsequent acts of his Government. He educes an argu-
ment against Estrada, because the Justas of the Department
only had the power to elect a successor, and yet he tells us,
General Corral, a rebel chief, conferred with the enemy, and
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WAS THE KIYAS-WJiLKBa QOVXBNMEMT A VALID ONE ? 208
selected Rivas the successor of Chamorro and Estrada. Is it
to be supposed that any such power was vested in Corral by his
partizans, as to yield the supreme Directorship of the country,
and would he willingly resign his position as Commander-in-
Chief, had not force been employed t Are we to believe ,that
this assamption of power on the part of the Rivas party was
▼alid f
Facts are stnbbom, and they Justify the aelection of
Rivas ; bat there is no shadow of any legal election by the
Justas, but by the prescribed Assembly, composed, subse-
quently, at the moment of the making of this compromise, of
friends to the new Government I Was this agreement between
Corral and the enemy valid f Was Rivas elected by the
Justas ? Was any election held at all ? Certainly not I The
enemy had evacuated Oranada, and consequently they had
no voice in it. Would they empower their chief, Corral, to
treat in this crisis with the enemy ?
Is it not absurd to justify the position of the Rivas-Walker
Government by such arguments ? Was it not certain, that
Corral's vote, upon any question, would be over-ruled, and that
any advantage he might wish to claim would be denied ? And
yet a treaty was made, and Corral, instead of returning to his
friends, was detained in Granada, and subsequently tried, 3on-
victed, condemned npon a charge of treason, and shot How
was this charge sustained f Not by iufluential parties ; they
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S04 NIOAftAOUA.
condemned the accusation and the Terdict, and the snbseqnent
Minister of Nicaragua, appointed bj the Rivas-Walker Got-
ernroent, strenoonsly beaoaght his pardon, belicTing htm to be
innocent.
There was no election, bnt an nnanimoas selection of Don
Patricio Rivas, a worthy, quiet man, formerly Custom Officer
at San Carlos, for the post ; a tool, 'tis said, in the hands Of
Oeneral Walker, and against whose interest^ it will be rettiem-
bered, CTen his son fought, fdlly feeling that his father was a
titled prisoner, a second Montezuma, in the hands of hia victof.
By whom was the city shorn of her beauty t By the enemy,
not by the Chamorro party, whose interests would have suffered,
and that Chamorro defended the plaza for nine months against
the enenfy, is sufficient endorsement of his talor, for bad be
been obnoxious to the citizens, he would soon have felt their
Vengeance. A rebellion had occurred — one party was beaten
—the victors claimed the spoils ; and they selected their officen^
as was usual, and held from that time the country i^i ei
The headquarters of General Walker were at Oranada, and
the gallant and determined defense of the plaza, by Hen-
ningsen, will be remembered as one of the most glorious
achievements of modern fillibusterism. With bis retreat en*
tirely cut off, supplies diminishing, an hospital immense in
i^roportiott to his fighting men, yet there was no show of the
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE ATTAOK ON AAN JOBGl. iOft
trhfte flag ; determitied to fall or conquer, b« forar^ hk foes ;
and when relief came, small though it proved, responding to
the heartj shouts of bis fellow soldiers, he leaped from hia
island barricade to paiiish the too sanguine enemy.
Reduced to the narrow and circamscribed limits of Blvaa
and environs, with a clear outlet, however, to San Juan,
Walker refused to retreat, and vainly essayed to bring the
enemy into a general battle. San Jorge was barricaded, but
lie resolved to attempt its capture. On the 3d of February,
1^57, he returned from San Juan del fiar with forly-ibr^
recruits, reaching Bivaa at half'paat one P. M. That nigbjt^
with diese, he forced an attack oa San Jorge,— 4)18 meii
were worn ont, had been illy provisioned, and bis total tofG$
only nombered two hundr^. Walker led in person^ It was
defended with cannon, and proved a very strong post ; within
the church and plaza was the whole Costa Rican force $
Walker had no artillery, for he intended to surprise the viilage.
He would have succeeded, had his men supported him, for when
they entered the streets, not a sound was heard, not a pickjat
challenged — ^the whole place was wrapped to dangerous, almost
fatal sleep. The courage of his worn-out men deserted them,
and when ordered to the attack, they faltered*— they refused.
He called for forty volunteers to storm the village — only fifteen
advanced. With these he approached the barricade. The
whole camp slept within — not a sentry on the alert. They
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
i06 HIOAKAGUA.
Sred ioto the plftn» which aroased the camp, aad met a
response of masketry. The volanteera fell back— the whole
body began to scatter, when Captain Higby of Mobile sprang
forward into the midst of his Company, and taunting them,
finally compelled them to amass, and marched them up to the
plaza. In the interim the Costa Ricans had entered the square
from the surrounding houses^ and were firing from thence upon
them.
Higby led his men in single file, crouching low along the
walls, so as to escape the muzzles of the enemy's guns, and as
the Costa Ricans discharged their vollies, up rose the Walker-
ites, and through the same port or loopholes returned the
courtesy. This manoeuvre, however, could not stay the battle
long, although it told disastrously upon the foe. Higby being
unsupported, and exposed to a galling fire from all points of
the plaza, while Oeneral Walker's party being the focus of a
hot serenade from the cannon, compelled the latter to evacuate
the village, after losing Col. O'Neil, Capt. Blackburn, and a
considerable number of the rank and file, composed of the First
and Second Rifles and the Rangers. He retired to Rivas.
On the 7th, in the morning, at 3 A. M., he marched again
to San Jorge, with three field-pieces and at 7 A. M., at a
distance of six hundred yards, commenced a cannonade which
lasted for several hoars, but he was disappointed in drawing the
enemy from their retreat Oeneral Canas, the Costa Rican
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
JOOLONIL0 TITUS AND LOCKBIDOE AT CASTILLO. SOT
oommaBder, having an opportunity to commanicate with Oen
eral Walker some days subseqaent, addressed him a note, in
which he stated that the cannonade had killed three beeves,
thereby saving the batcher some troable, and that his men had
picked ap fifty ronnd-shot, which he should with pleasure retam
to him some time soon — paco ti&nipo.
Upon the Rio San Juan, Walker's officers had taken Sera-
paqui, the Castillo, and other points, and held Punta Arenas
also, but were unsupported, and finally outwitted by the Costa
Ricans who succumbed at Castillo. The latter desired twenty-
four hours to evacuate, but in the meantime sent messengers for
aid to San Carlos, who returned with reserves sufficient to
compel Cols. Titus and Lockridge to abandon all hopes of its
capture. Had Walker's officers refused time, and forced them
at once to surrender, the whole country would have been in his
hands. Was this the result of an over-supply of confidence,
or " manifest destiny" ?
Col. Anderson had succeeded in taking Serapaqui, and was
left with a garrison to defend it until the return of Col. Lock-
ridge. Lockridge landed a detachment of one hundred and
fifty men under Col. Titus, one mile below Castillo, with orders
to march through the woods, and enter the town on the rear ;
whilst he, in person, proceeded up the river to cannonade it.
When he (Lockridge) came in sight of the fort, he found tlie
houses in flames below, and also two of the river-steamers.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
tot mOAMAQVA.
Withooft detoy, and oader a ihow^r of Mis flrovi tbe tart, kf
boarded the J. N. Scott, pat oat the fire, cot her adrift, and
floated her oot of range of the gans. The other boat, The
M achaca, was entirely consamed. The Scott was riddled with
balls, and otherwise injured. Lockridge's loss, exposed thas,
was fi?e privates and one officer. Titos found the ruins when
he reached the Rapids, sent in a flag, and demanded instant
sorreader, having ascertained previonsly that the force
amounted to only tweoty*fiye men.
The real I have told. On the 2d of Mareb, Titos deseeoiad
the river in the Beseoe, with CoL Lockridge, having tb#
J. N. Scott in tow. The £nglii^ officers boarded the steamem
ad libiium, olfering protection to all who desired to leave
Walker's service. General Walker's camp lU Bivas was also
visited by AoMrieaa and English na^al officers, but tiie latter
generally felt they had rated the General far too feebly.
Rivas was well fortified. It was defended by stone barri*
cades, and eleven pieces of ordnance-^lhree six-ppaKders, two
mines, two howitzers, and (bur mortars, the latter very small.
The Costa Rican forces were about ten times the numbier of
Walker's. Reduced to a circumscribed space, the latter felt
bis necessity for action. Not a boat on the lake, no commoni*^
cation with Lockridge on the Atlantic, one hundred men
sick and wounded, two hundred more, limping, terribly crip-
pled, and nofit for jnarehing, four hundred only were l«ft
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WALKSB'8 PETWlf|lll» ^EBSEYERANOE. 9^
toge&er with iwo luudred Datives to baUle against ttiis
overwhelming odds.
Of how many welUfonght ields have these rnde untutored
troops been the victors ! In a strange olime, nnaceostomed to
in wattt, or its changing temperatore, war &om the moment
tk»j plaeed their feet npoa its soil, till tksf sought the "sick*
hef," foes avcMuid them, abont tbom, starvation at their olbowi^
and no reservas on the march, whaJb prevented Despair from
gathering his share of the laurels ? Pride J Pride ! P# thaif
{jeader's brofr thej saw a dpggod resolva, a fixed dfitermim^
tion to >ont&8t» outsat, or out^fat the enaflpy. J^\ that pecso?
tfranoe could ha?e accomplished, was certainly his. Ho
penetrated to the Capital — ^he had it in his power. H9
governed the State, but his forces were insufficient. Hai|
Loefcndge been able to join him, and hence given him poa-
aession of the lake and river steamer^ the flag of the vanquished
would undoubtedly now float from the mast-heads at Bealejo,
and the flag-staff of Qreytown i
^ Ffoa the oiicial Mport of Ph. K. 1%ompson, Adjutants
Oenerai of the X^icaraguau army, dated Bivas, Feb. 24«
186}, we find thai the or^ia«l number of men enlisted were
S,288, of which 61 were officers. The total of deaths were
685, of which 109 were officers j 8T resigned, 206 were dis-
charged including one officer, 9 were dropped or stricken from
the roil, 293 deserted, of which 9 were officers, leaving a total
of 733 officers and men, with 141 unaccounted for.
14
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SIO NICULEAGVA.
To the number Joined, as herein stated, are to be added
fldbont 100, who joined singly, re-enlisted, and others employed
in the different departments of the army. Of the 141 unac-
counted for, about 70 should be added to the killed.
The evacuation of the country by General Walker and com-
patriots from the port of San Juan del Sur, on the Pacific,
and the interference of Captain Davis, of the Ship-of-war St.
Mary, is patent. His general successes and discomfitures have
been dwelt upon succinctly, but briefly, and we refrain from
dilating upon the motives which induced either the first or
second visit of the leader to Nicaragua, lest we may do injus-
tice, but we shall publish an official document relating to his
capitulation according to the Convention of Rivas. Suffice it
for us to ask, what of good hath eventuated from all the tur-
moil ? Many wrongs had been committed by the Oovemment
upon Americans, resident and transient The Transit route has
been brought into notice, and many who have visited the coun-
try from other motives than commerce, can fully endorse my
opinion of it^ when I add, that it possesses a regular and good
climate— fertile soil — ^the* finest fruits in the world — immense *
mineral wealth, and a population, with whom, after our Cass
and Yrisarri Treaty is fully confirmed, we can affiliate, and
enter into commercCi with many chances of success.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER XXI.
walksr's ooimirPLATiD sBcoim nrrAsioir op moAmAOVA — ssiKms tsisasbi
▲HO HOUIIA— THBIB LCTTBH TO SBCBBTABT OASS— WHAT THBT THIHK
WALKBB WILL OO— WHAT THBT HOPB TBB UNITBIf STATB8 WILL 00— CIH-
OULAR OP SBCRBTART 0A88 — CALLS OH THB 0PPICIAL8 — BXPBCTA THBH TO
M THBIH OaTT— WALKBB SPBAKl— AF0L0«IBB8 POR DOIHG SO— QLAIH8 TO
BB THB LAWPUL BXBOOTITB OP HiOARAOOA— OOB8 HOT WAHT AHT IHTBB-
FBBBBCB PROM C(»8TA RIGA AVD OUATBHALA— OBHIB8 YIOLATIHO AHT ACT OP
OOK0RS8S — SBHOB TBI8ARRI AOAIH — WAHT8 THB AHBRICAH OOTBRHMBHT TO
9Q THB BIOHT TBIHO — TALKS HARD ABOUT WALKBR— SATS THB P1LLIBU8TBRS
ARR HOTHIHO B0T PIRATBS— CAHHOT DBOBITB TBB CBHTRAL AMBRICAHS, AHD
WOHOBRS AT THH IMPUOBHCH OP THB MAH OP OBSTIHT.
In relation to General Walker's second invasion of Nicar-
agua, we insert the following official docaments, which prove
the desire of the United States to maintain her position for
probity with the world at large. The letter from Sefiors
Trisarii and Molina to Secretary Cass, dated New York,
September 14, 1857, apprises onr Qovernment of an intended
invasion, and is as follows :
(211)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SIS MIOARAOUA.
''The Qodersigned, Minister Plenipotentiary of the Republics
of Ooatemaia and of Salvador, and the Charge d'Affaires of the
Repablic of Costa Rica, have tlie honor of bringing to the
knowledge of his Exoelleney the Secretary of State, that there
is no doubt as to the fact that there is now in conrse of prep-
aration, in the southern section of the United States, an Ex-
peditlon under the orders of Wallcer, the adventurer ; which
Expedition, according to the Aotioes published in the public
Journals, will sail about the middle of this month, or the
begiatting of ihe MXt. bouftd for Boca del Tora^ mhute k waM
take the armament, which, now ready in the port of New Yoit,
is to be transferred to that point li is pi-<^)able that the
eolhsctiog of the members of the Bxpeditfon and of the ama-
menty at that point, have for their object the entrance of these
Mw iafaden into NicaiagM tiinMgii tk» poiiof Sau Jma del
Norte, since they can hare no other point firom which they
could effect such entrance.
" The undersigned hope that the Government of the United
Staten, though they may Mt beaSde to praveat the oiahsrkadon
of this expeditioB. like fersMr ones, so imhiiely asd ahaBselosslf
proclaimed, wiU diDeetthat a vessel «f war ^ the United Slates
shall prevent the debarkation of these i^gresson in Boca del
Toro, and give formal orders to the United States vessel that
may be atationed at San Juan del Sur to repel, also, the land-
ing of the expedition along that coas^ and to tan Ikem kftck
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CIRCULAB FROM TSl flrATE DEPABTMENT. tit
to tire tTnfted States m riohkfore of tkeir Iftwe, and as distorters
of tile peace and seciirity of frieirdly natioDS.
^ With tke highest eomideratkm, the aiid«rs%iied have the
honor of sahscribing' thensehFes the roBpectfUf and obedient
servants erf the Honorsble the Secretary of State of the United
States. "^^o. I, Ssc. Doe. No. U, 3hik 0ong.,l9i Sen.)
Upon the reoeipi of which, Mr. Cass issaed the following
efrmhir, directed to the Tmriona Attorneys, Marshal and Col-
ieetors of the United States. It i& dated froa the Departmeat
of State, Washington, September 18, 1857.
^'Frominfbrnmtiott reeeived at this Department, there is
reason to believe that lawless persons are now engaged withm
the tinrits of the United States th setting on foot and preparing
the means for raifttary expedkions te be carried on against the
territorfes of Mexico, Nieari^aa, and Costa Rica, Republics
with wltoffl the United States are at peace. In direct violatifm
of the sixth section of the Act of Congress approved iOth of
AprH, 1818. And nnder the eighth section of said Act it is
made lawful for the President, or soch person as he shall em-
power, to employ the ^and and naval forces of the United States^
and the miKtia thereof, 'for the pnrpose of preventing the
carrying on of any snch expedition or enterprise from the terri-
tories or jnrisdiction of the United States.^ I am therefore
directed by the President tS call yoor attention to the snbject^
and to orge yon to nee an dae diligence, and to avail yonfaeif
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
2U mCASLMVA.
of ail legitimate means at joar command, to enforce tbese and
all other prorisions of the said Act of 20th April, 1818, against
those who may be found to be engpaged in setting on foot or
preparing military expeditions against the territories of Mexico,
Costa Rica, and Kicaragna, so manifestly prejadicial to the
national character, and so injurious to the national interest
And you are also hereby instructed promptly to communicate
to this Department the earliest information you may receive
relative to such expeditions." — {No. % Ex. Doo. No. 24, Zbth
Cong. Id Bess.)
Tlie instant reply of Walker to Mr. Cass is worthy of inser-
tion, and is dated September 29, 1857.
*' It is correctly reported that the ministers of Costa Rica
and Onatemala have asked for the active interposition of the
United States for the purpose of preventing me and my com-^
panious from returning to Nicaragua. This request, it is fur-
ther said, is based on the assumption that I have violated, or
intend to violate, the neutrality laws of the United States.
''The want of all official intercourse between the Government
of the United States and that of Nicaragua will, I hope, be a
sufficient excuse for my addressing you on the faith of a public
report But the rumor comes in such a form that I am satis-
fied the ministers of Costa Rica and Guatemala have attempted
to dishonor the Republic of Nicaragua in the eyes of the United
States ; and I am further convinced of this fact by a decree of
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WALKXR'8 BSFLT to BICnXTABT OASL 215
Presideot Mora, dated at San Jos^, on the 7th of Aagast last,
and ordered to be commonicated to the diplomatic corps
generally.
** The ministers of Oosta Rica and Onatemala attempt to
humiliate Nicaragua by presenting themselves to the XJoited
States as her protectors and guardians. In behalf of the Be«
public in which I claim to be rightful and lawful chief execu-
tive, I protest most earnestly against this assumption on the
part of Costa Rica and Guatemala, and ask that the Govern-
ment of the United States will not permit itself to be influenced
by such pretensions on the part of these two Central American
powers. On the contrary, it is to be hoped that the United
States will, by its conduct, assert and vindicate the inde*
pendence of its sister Republic, the sovereign State of Nicar-
agua.
"It is my duty further to say, that the people of Nicaragua
have not consented to the military authority at present exer-
cised over them by the agents of Costa Rica and Guatemala,
and that they, therefore, cannot be held responsible for any in-
terference of these latter States in the administration of the
municipal laws of your Government. Conceiving that the
ministers of Costa Rica and Guatemala cannot justify any sug-
gestions they make to the United States concerning the execu-
tion of its own Acts of Congress, I desire to relieve Nicaragua
from any responsibility far such intermeddling suggestions.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
tld NICAEAOXTA.
^So liir as any riolation on my part of Che Acts of CoDgresd
lii concerned, I deny the charge with scorn and indignation.
Hating been leceived in the United States when forced for •
time to leave Nicaragna, I have in all respects been obedient to
its laws. And permit me to assure yon that I shall not so fkr
forget my duty as an officer of Nicaragua as to violate the laws
of the United States while enjoying the rights of hospitality
within ite limits."
The letter of Seilor Trisarri, asking for the Interrentfon of
the United States, dates October 8, 185*7, a portion of which
we here insert.
^Nicaragua, nnhappily, has been the scene of fireqnent and
sadden revolations. Her internal dissensions and strifes have
produced her national weakness and invited the attacks of the
corrupt and the wicked. From such an attack upon het
sovereignty and national rights she has just been freed. But
scarcely had the last one of these miserable fillibusters been
expelled fbom her territory, when we find the same contemptible
leader — who only has ability enough to perpetrate crime —
ready again to invade our shores and repeat the same outrages
so lately enacted by him. Can the United States Oovernment
prevent this new invasion f It can. But not by means of the
neutrality laws, for these are too weak, as experience has re-
peatedly proved, to restrain any body, much less to restrain
the defiant and bi^ enterprises of fillibusterism, that scandal
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SEKOB TBISARBt M WAtKSB'S CLAIMS. tlT
ef tl« ftg^. But ihh Qot^mmeni bftd the power safBeiettt to
prerent tbe proje^ed ftrvarion by tbe petformftnee of an act
of simple jirstiee and comity toward a weak Init friendly and
confiding people."
The notice of General Walkef'b letter to Secretary Cass by
Beiior Trlsarrl, dated Norember 10, 1857, embraces thi^ positfoti
of Nicaragua refatire to Wafker'ii claim to its fixectftite, and
as we hare gfren one party fvtft latitnde, equity demand that
the other should be heard. Seffor Trisarrl says —
" The midersigned, Mfnfster Plenipotentiary of the Kepnblics
of Gnatemala and of Salrador, has the honor of Imparting tO
the fiTon. Secretary of State of the United States that he has
Seen, hi the pnbUc papera printed In these States, a letter
addressed to His Excellency, and said to be written by the
Sonora and Nicaragnan ad?entnrer, William Walker, who haa
undnly arrogated the name of President of Nicaragna, by
which he has nerer been recognized in the States of Central
America, in any of the Spanish American Republics, in this
Ooremment of the United States, or In any other Goremment
of the world, and who never could hare been President of that
Republic, because the Nicaraguan Constitution excludes any
one not a native of Central America from the exercise of the
executive power of that State.
*' Under the assumption that the letter blinded to has actually
been addressed by Said Walker to the Honorable Secretary of
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S18 mOABAGUA.
Stete of the United States, it is the doty of the nndenigned to
contradict the assertions by which the writer has endeavored
to mislead this Government and to continue deceiving the
people of the United States.
*' Trnly astonishing is the impndence with which this adven-
turer, expelled from Nicaragua by her forces and those of all
the Central Americans, attempts to constitute himself the
Champion of Nicaragua. The man, whose course in that
country was an exclusive one of assassination of the defenders
of that country — ^the burner of whole villages, the spoiler of
national property, the trampler on all rights, the plundever of
churches, the leader of the foreign stipendiaries which he
gathered under his own banner — alone could have alleged his
right of citizenship in Nicaragua, and thereby held as dunces
all men else on earth.
" This same man, without bitter insult on the common sense
of mankind, could not have contrived a more absurd pretext
under which to carry into effect the expedition which he has
levied to recover a treacherously-usurped authority, than this
claim that his expedition is not one hostile to the country,
but a peaceful colonizing enterprise I He himself has, time
and again, and with characteristic impudence, published that
his projected expedition looks to a recuperation of power in
that country ; whilst in the very letter attributed to him, and
addressed to the Honorable Secretary of the United States, he
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SBirOB TBI8ABBI TO SBORBTABT 0A88. 819
claims for himself the title of ' Lawfiil Ezecative Power of
Nicaragaa.'
** This is ample to prove that the expedition, composed of
spurious colonists, is^ in reality, one of soldiers, moving with
the design of supporting this dream-begotten legitimate execu-
tive power of the country. But whatever may be the charac-
ter of this colonizer, and of those colonists ander a new patent,
they cannot set foot on the territory which they are about to
invade, nor be there received, save as real pirates ; because^
in Nicaragua and in Costa Rica, as well as in the other Re-
publics of Spanish America, Walker is held in no other light
than that of a traitor to the party which he went to serve
in Nicaragua, of an usurper of the sovereignty of that country,
of a blood-shedder, whose object was to destroy the defenders
of their country ; whilst his satellites were nothing else than
accomplices of his crimes. In proof of this, I transmit to the
Secretary of State the decree of the 3 1st of August last^
officially communicated to me by the Minister of Foreign Rela-
tions of Nicaragua, by which it will be clearly seen that the
expedition which Walker intends to lead into that country,
under the appellation of colonists, will be received as an ex-
pedition of pirates ; in view of which, communication through
the Isthmus has been ordered to be foreclosed.
" Neither in Nicaragua, nor in any Republic of Central
America, is any colony desired, formed by Walker, or by any
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
tt9 mVABAOfTA.
Other adTentafer, who, Rko him, htts dfrained of masterj o?«r
its lands, to divide them among his foreign followert. Ex-
perience amply teaches tliere, aa wel! as here, that the thou-
sands fA indifldoali shipped aa e«rfotihits for Wicaragaa, fi'oa
New York and New Orleans darfng the eovrse of the Isat
two yean, went there with the excfoslre aim of waging war
against the natires of the land, mider the conmaiid of an ta*
trmire asorper. And if, wHh miserahle cmining, they can bafle
the laws of the Uiirted States, which forbid the cHizens of those
States to disturb the peace of friend^ nations, tliey wiH cer-
tainly not deceive now, as they ncTcr Imve been able to de-
ceive, the Cefitral Americana ; and they oitisl not eompMi
of the fate that may befall them, howeret hard ft may appear
to them. Natural bw imposes on the Central Americana the
duty of making an example of the incorrigible violalers of the
laws of all the nations.
•* Wafker never was, nor can he ever be, President of Nica-
ragua, or a citizen of that Repubfic from the time that he was
declared to be a traitor to it ; nor can any men that may be
led by him, or any one else in his name, faH to l>e received
and treated in any other manner than that due to Imndits and
pirates, by whatever name they may be known, or ftrom what-
ever quarter they may come. This is a UncX which grows oat
of authentic documents fl'om the true executive power,
national, and not foreign, of Nicaragua ; and to thia shoirid
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
TBISABBI APPLIES HABD WORDS TO FILUBUSTBBINa. 221
the citizens of the United States rivet their attention, so that
they may not ventare to follow the private banner of the ad-
Tentnrer of Sonora and of Nicaragua.
" It is of world-wide notoriety that Walker was not elected
President of Nicaragua, save by a foreign soldiery, which
backed him in the nsarpation of the supreme power which
could not be vested ; and wonderful, I repeat it» is the impu-
dence of the man who pretends to vindicate, as a right, that
which bears no other character than that of the worst imagin-
able outrage.
** The undersigned, as Minister Plenipotentiary of Guatemala
and of Salvador, and ia his «^poiiited e^pa^^lJty by th« Gov-
ernment of Nicaragua to represent her in the United States,
eanAot bat protest A^inst the contemplated expedition of
eolonisatioti and peace to Nieanig«a wider the Jaadership of
Walker; declaring that, as it cannot be received in that Re-
{wi>lte flafse m h lioatil« expedition, it shall be treated by the
three States, Guatemala, Salvador, and Kicafagaa, as on« of
real pirates. This the undersigned has deemed it his duty to
bring to the knowledge of the Government of the United
Sttttes.**
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER XXII.
A nomtl rVLPILLKD— ttCVKBAL ■UmmatKll't LBmft to tSCRSTARr CAM
— >atl COMMIMIOR PROM FRBtlDKHT WALKBR— WIAT BR tATI ABOUT WALK-
BR*t BLRCTIOB^BII PBBMABRIICT At A BUkBB^BIt lOLICITVDB FOR TBB
•OkDIBBT^AB APPBAl TO TBB PBBtlDBBT OP TBB DBITBD ITATBB— TBIBKB
CAPTAIB DATII DID BOT DO TBB RIQBT TBIMO — WBAT PRBtlDBBT MORA DID—
WBAT ORBRBAL WALKBR DID— BOW LOBO THR IMTADBRB WBRB KBPT PROX
IBTMTIBB RITAi — BOW TBBT ATTBMPTRD AT TABIODt TIM KB TO 8T0RH TBB
PLACB—BOW ABZIOUt TBBT BTBRTUALLT BRCAHR TO KBRP OOT—POBITIOH
OP BBBIBOBRI ARD BBIIBOBD OB TBB PIR8T OP MAT— WBAT WALKEB BXPKCT-
BD TO DO, ABD BOW BB WAR OOIItO TO DO IT— WBAT CAPTAIB DA Tilt DID,
AMD TBB WAT BB DID IT— ROW IT APPRCTBD WALKKR'I PLANS— TBB
•CBOOBRB ORABADA RRIBRD ABD BANDBD OTBB TO TBB CORTA RICABI — TBB
OUATBMALA BATT PUTS TO IBA ABD MDRDBBB CAPTAIB ULI.T.
Wb promised, in Chapter Twentieth, to give the documents
relative to the evacuation of Nicaragua. We now discharge
that promise, by iunerting extracts embracing the points at
issue, from a letter of General Henningseu's to Mr. Cass, date4»
Washington, November 12, IS57.
(222)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WHAT OSNXBAL HSNNINOSBN SATS. 223
" On the first of May last, in Nicaragua, I was charged by
President Walker with negotiating, drafting, and subsequently
carrying into execution the Convention of Rivas. That
negotiation was entered into, and the capitulation was made
solely with a United States officer, Captain Davis, of the Uni-
ted States ship-of-war St. Mary, nnder the guaranty of the
United States flag that certain terms would be observed by
the besiegers.
'' General Walker was regarded as the legitimate President
of Nicaragua, and without any possibility of influencing the
ballot, was elected by a larger majority than any President ever
received before, or probably will ever receive again in Nicar-
agua, because the only classes who labor or produce had
witnessed nnder his auspices the abolition of forced military
service, and saw in his election, for the first time in their gen-
eration, the prospect of not being coerced by ambitious faction-
ists to fight through interminable revolutions for a cause in
which they took no interest When the pressure of internal
treachery, foreign invasion, and extraneous influence, prevented
him from protecting them from conscription, they came to
regard this as an illusion, and resigned themselves, as they had
done from time immemorial, to be dragged from their peaceful
avocations, and driven to slaughter by leaders whom it was
never my fortune to see or hear of in the front of battle. It is
difficult for any one acquainted with facts, not to have regarded
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
8M mcuMuauA.
General Walker ai the legitimate President of Nicaragaa, siace
BO valid election can take place as long as the Costa Ricaa
foreign force occopies any part of the territory of tliat Repab-
lie. It ia worth observing that^ besides being still de jure
president, Oenenal Walker was de facto Pre^denl; of Nicaragua
br beyond the nTenige term. Ja the fifteen changes of Oot^i-
frnment that have taken place in this respect within six yean^
there is only Chamorro, whose term of power exceeded by oi>e
months and President Pineda^ by four months^ General W<alker'8
actual exercise of that office.
"Now« sir," he continaes, " so great wiis the solicitude of
President Walker with rcigard to our Nicaraguan fellow soldiers
in Riiras, and so strong was generally the feeling of their
American companions in arms^ that J am only expressing the
cojmmoo sentiment when I emphatically declare^ that if ^ver
^cumstances could haye driven us to capitulate with the
Central American invaders or insurgents, J would I^ve run all
risks of dying, sword in hand, sooner than h^ve surrendered
these good and trpe men on any guaranty less strong than th^
obligation of our opponents toward a powerful nation.
''They naturally looked to the Americans in Rivas efficiently
to guaranty their safety. President W^lker« who entrusted
me with the details of that negotiation, and my companions in
arms who know {hat I was therewith entrusted, look to me, and
I^.sir^ have the flag of the American Uulpii to look to. ilj
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WHAT CAPTAIN DAVIS DID. 225
duty toward the sufferers, and my honor as a soldier oblige me,
therefore, respectfally to appeal for redress of this great wrong
to the Chief Magistrate of this Republic, whom I believe it is
proper that I should address through you."
Again : " ion attempt has been made to create the impression
that the Nicaraguan army at Rivas was in an utterly desperate
position, from which it was relieved by the intervention of
Captain Davis, whose interference is pretended to have been
only officious, dictated solely by motives of humanity and nn-
dertaken on his own responsibility.
" Now, sir, though I do not wish to impugn the motives of
Captain Davis, and though we have never done the Cabinet at
Washington the injustice to believe that he acted either npon
its instructions or in conformity with its intentions, I must re-
mark firstly, that Captain Davis, as commanding the only
United States forces there, represented for us the United
States ; secondly, that in as far as our position was desperate,
it was rendered so by his own act; and thirdly, that after the
commission of that act, oursituation was not desperate enough
for us to have trusted our wounded, or our native companions
In arms to the mercy of our opponents without a better guar-
anty than the word they had so often violated.
"We could not have done so, remembering that in the
Spring of 1856, President Mora had preached a crusade of
which the avowed object was the extermination of all North
15
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
ISC NIOARAGUA.
Amerieans who took any part in thtt affairs et a (to him)
foreigo coontrj ; that in March of that jear he shot all the
stragglers and woanded who fell into his hands after the dis«
aster of Santa Rosa; that in the following April he pot to
death peaceable American citizens in Virgin Bay ; and that,
being attacked in Rivas, Nicaragua, which he was invading,
by President Walker, he (President Mora) fled back to Costa
Rica with his brother, General Mora, leaving General Cailas
to bring back his shattered forces ; that General Cafias was
obliged to abandon his sick and wounded Costa Ricans to
(General Walker's mercy, who had thera tended with the same
eare as his own. We conld not have done so, remembering
that after this, in the following October, peaceful citizens were
massacred at Granada, amongst others a minister of the Gos-
pel, the Rev. Mr. Wheeler, and Mr. Lawless, a merchant long
resident in the country, the neutrality of both of whom was
beyond cavil or dispute.
*' As to the condition of the Nicarag^an army under Presi*
dent Walker, in Rivas, the attempt to besiege that city began
on the 2'rth of Jannary, 1857, he being at that time cut off
from all communication with the Atlantic States by the nn-
lawful seizure of the transit steamers. By repeated and
vigorous attacks — once at Obraje, ibur times at San Jorge, on
the 29th of January, 3d and 11th of Febrnary, and the 16th
of March, by sweeping the transit road, and by various skir-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WALKER BESQBaSD AT BIYAB. Stt
mfslieSy tlie invaders and insargenis were for seren weeks pre-
venlod from investing Rivas.
" For the remaining six weeks, op to the Ist of May, Rivas
was more or less closely invested by means of four strongly
entrenched camps with connecting lines. During the whole of
this siege, and indeed for nearly five months preceding the Ist
of May, 1857, we had received only one hundred and thirty-
five men reinforcement. The besiegers, who reached Obraje,
according to their own report, with two thousand one hundred
and sixty men, bad been daring this time reinforced by five
thousand men, making the total force brought against us over
seven thousand men. After the investment two attempts were
made to carry the place by surprise and storm, viz. : on the
the 23d of March and 11th of April. On the 23d the be-
siegers took possession of all the houses outside of our works,
but by two o'clock P. M. were driven out of them back to
their lines with great loss, leaving in our hands one cannon
and thirty prisoners, including a Colonel of Artillery.
" On the llth of April, 185T, led in by a deserter, they suc-
ceeded in capturing one side of the lower plaza, and attempted
to storm on other sides. In two hours they were again driven
back with great slaughter, leaving in our hands nearly one
hundred prisoners, all those who got within our works being
killed or compelled to surreinier. Their loss on that occasion
has been since ascertained to have exceeded eight hundred.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
888 mOARAGUA.
''From that time to the Ist of May they made no farther
attack and receired no reinforcement of any conseqaence. They
had none whatever to expect, except one corps of Salvadorians,
whose advent and fidelity was doubtful and unimportant, and
whose leader shortly after attempted a revolution. ^ Up to the
11th of April the besiegers had been under the impression that
they could capture Rivas if they could enter it. Tbey were
then eager to get in. The result of the 11th destroyed this
illusion, and they were equally anxious to keep out
** On the morning of the 1st of May the position of the be-
siegers and of the besieged was as follows : Of the seven thou-
sand men brought by the allied foreign invaders and insurgents
against Rivas (two-thirds of which force had consisted of
foreign invaders) there remained six hundred allies, and from
one thousand to one thousand two hundred Nicaraguan in-
surgents. Their entrenched camps had been much strengthened,
but they could no longer with this reduced force, man effectively
the connecting lines, which were over two miles in extent, and
the besieged sent scouts and messengers through them, who
almost always returned in safety. The besiegers were, besides,
short of powder, and threatened with cholera and the rainy
season, both of which had set in a fortnight earlier the year
preceding.
The besieged, on the other hand, were straitened for pro-
visions and encumbered with wounded. For a mouth they
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WHAT WAIiKEB EXPEOTED TO DO. $29
bad been living on horse and male meat, sugar and chocolate.
They had been much weakened by desertion, but desertion
had nearly done its worst. Their force consisted of two hun-
dred and sixty Americans and forty natives capable of bear-
ing arms. They had still left on the 1st of May two or three
days' provisions, viz. : two oxen, two mules, three horses, and
one thousand pounds of sugar. They were well supplied with
ammunition, half their store being in Rivas. In the harbor
of San Juan del Sur they had the war schooner Granada,
which contained the other half of their ammunition, besides
several hundred stand of small arms.
** President Walker had remained thus long in Rivas, ap-
prehending that Colonel Lockridge might march round bj
Chontales, and because there was every reason to believe that
shortly after the action of the 11th April, the enemy would
be obliged to raise the siege. It was his intention, after
ordering the schooner Granada to sail for Realejo or some
point northward, to evacuate Rivas when he came to his last
day's provision. He had no doubt, by a night attack, of
being able to force his way through their now weakened lines ;
no thought of the besiegers attempting to pnrsue him till
after daybreak, nor fear of being easily able to route their
vanguard with his rear if they did. There was then nothing
to impede his march to Realejo, or other points where the
schooner Granada with the ammunitioQ and spare arms wonld
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
280 KiQAJuauiu
have m«t him. In the adjoining districts, where, bat for tbt
necessity of protecting the transit, be long since would have
carried on the war, his native friends were anxiously awaiting
either till the besiegers exhausted their strength on Rivas,
or till we appeared amongst them. It is true that the be-
sieged would have bad to destroy the ammunition and heavier
pieces at RivaSi and would have been compelled to leave
their wounded behind them, but they would have carried with
them the substantial guaranty of one hundred prisoners as
hostages.
" If it be donbted whether the besieged were strong enough
to break through the lines of the besiegers, I have only to
refer to many examples in the war, where, with a smaller
force, greater obstacles were overcome. I will cite only
three: On the 11th of November, 1856, with two hundred
and sixty-five men, and one gun, President Walker carried
the entrenched camp and all the barricades on the transit
route, held by Oeneral Canas, with eight hundred Custa
Ricans, and at least four times stronger than the Hues of in-
vestment at Rivas. On the 17th of the same month, with
two hundred and sixty men, and three guns, he forced his
way into Masaya, defended by two thousand men, captured
half the city, held it for three days, and was hourly gaining
ground, though ninety of his small force were killed and
wounded* On the night of the 11th of November, one hun-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WHAT CAPTAIN DAVTS DIB. 281
dred and sixty men, landed bj him three miles from Granada^
carried successively four lines of barricades, and reported to.
me at daybreak on the 12th, at the Guadaloape church.
'' To the schooner Oranada, in the harbor of San Juan, there
was no difiQcalty la commanicating orders. Its immense im-
portance at this janctare to the besieged is apparent, both
as a magazine and as a means of conveying material of war,
which they bad no other means of transporting.
*
** Now, sir, jast at this critical janctare, and before the ques-
tion of capitulation had been discassed, Captain Davis for*
mally declared to me, on the night of the 30th of April, that
he had embargoed the schooner by leaving orders with the
United States force, which he commanded, to prevent her
from leaving the harbor of San Juan, and he expressed his
unalterable determination to take possession of her before he
left the harbor. It was this act of intervention on the part
of a United States officer which alone caused President
Walker to entertain the proposed terms of capitulation. For
the acty that is to say, the order to prevent the Nicaraguan
Bchooner-of-war from leaving the harbor had already been
given before he declared his intention of seizing her.
''The schooner Granada, (whose commander, Fayssoux,
had fought her through as gallant an action as any living
officer in any navy in the world has foaght,) had been lying
for many weeks next to the St. Mary, their officers interchang-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
832 NIOABAQUA.
iDg*coartesies. There coald be no reason or pretext for pre-
Tenting her leaving the port or tailing possession of her on the
Ist of May, which had not existed for many weeks previoaslj.
There could be no motive for so doing, except that the be-
sieged in Rivas had never before been reduced to depend on
her possession, a motive so base that if Captain Davis en-
deavored thereby to justify the change in his conduct from
professed friendship to active hostility, which I cannot be-
lieve, I am sure that neither the American people nor its
Executive would hold this a justification.
** The only explanation of Captain Davis* conduct is in the
Buppbsition that he had already pledged himself to give up
the Granada to the besiegers, and, in fact, we afterward
learned that when he first announced his action and future
determination with regard to the schooner Granada, and pro-
posed the outline of a capitulation to the besieged, he had
for many days been negotiating it with the enemy, a fact of
which the besieged were utterly ignorant, and which explained
the unaccountable perseverance of the besiegers in continuing
their siege, or their ability to keep their forces together
through the end of April, they naturally concluding that
these propositions were made with our knowledge and con-
currence. By embargoing the Granada he constrained Presi-
dent Walker into the acceptance of terms which otherwise
he would never have thought of. But even after Captain
Davis had thereby rendered our position so precarious, Presl**
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WHAT THE TROOPS SUFFERED. 233
dent Walker would sooner have ran the last hazard of war
than have trusted his men, his wounded, or his native fellow-
citizens to the faith of the invading or insurgent leaders with-
out some such solid guaranty as either hostages or the flag
of some powerful and civilized nation. Under circumstances ^
more desperate than Captain Davis had rendered ours in
Rivas, we persistently refused to do so.
** On the retreat from Granada, there were in Granada, or
between Granada and the Lake, four hundred and nineteen souls.
Of these seventy-three were wounded men, seventy women and
children. Of the two hundred and seventy-six men capable of
bearing arms, forty-seven were cut off within ten minutes of the
first attack. Of the remaining two hundred and twenty-nine,
seventy-five were subsequently killed or wounded, besides those
who died of cholera and typhus, (amounting to one hundred
and twenty of all sexes and ages). They were exposed for
seventeen days to rain and sunshine, without shelter, night or
day, living on horse and mule meat, short of ammunition,
incessantly fighting, and surrounded by a force larger than
remained to beleaguer us in Rivas on the first of May — yet
surrender or capitulation was never contemplated. At
Rivas, the responsibility of the United States flag was held to
be sufficient security for the safety of those whom we were
bound to protect at every sacrifice.
** Captain Davis put into executjon his threat of seizing the
schooner Granada, after we had carried oat» on oar part, the
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S84 VIOABAQUA.
terms of the capitalatioDp in which that vessel was not mentioned
He caased her to be seized by his first lientenanty who sprang
apon her the broadside of the St. Marj, and started a hundred
men in boats to board her. Captain Fajssoux, with his crew,
(then of seventeeo men,) prepared for action, and only sui^
rendered her on the written order of President Walker, who
ordered him to yield to this demonstration of overwhelming
force.
** After taking possession of her, Captain Davis handed over
this Nicaragnan schooner, not to the Nicaragnan insargentSi
bat to the Costa Ricans, who had no claim to her, and who
could never have taken her, for the simple reason that they had
already lost in the attempt their only man-of-war, the brig Onse
de Abril, which, of the burden of two handred and twenty-five
tons, with four nine-pounders, and a crew of one handred and
eighteen men, was destroyed after a desperate action by the
little schooner Granada, of seventy-five tons, with two sixes,
and twenty-eight men crew. Her gallant captain had the mor-
tification of seing her given up by Captaia Davis to a Costa
Rican Captain, a Jamaica negpro, who had formerly been ser-
vant to an American officer. After this step, the two vessels
which constituted the Guatemala navy, and to which the Gran-
ada had vainly offered battle, put to sea, and thereby obtained
the opportunity of recently murdering, for the sake of his cargo,
Christopher Lilly, an American neutral, trading on the coast"
«
(Ex. Doc. No. 24, Z&(h Cong., Isi Sess., p. 22.)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER XXIII.
VICARAOUA THRB4TBN8 TO SUSPEND THB TRANSIT — HBR PRBAITBLB AND DB*
CRiSBS — LIBUT. ALMT APPLIES FOB IKSTRUCTIORS — SUPPOSES A CASE IN
WHICH PILUBUSTBRS FIGURE LARGBLT— DBLIOATB POINTS GROWING OUT OF
IT — DOES NOT WISH TO COMPROMISE OUR GOVERNMENT — SKCRBTART TOUCET
POSTS HIM UP — SATS HE MUST PREVENT FILLIBU8TERS FROM LANDING
COMMODORE PAULDING HEARD FROM — SATS HARD THINGS ABOUT WALKER
AND HIS MEN — CONSIDERS HIS REASONS QUITE SUFFICIENT FOR SENDING
THE FILLIBURTBRS HOME — REFUSES ANT CO-OPERATION FROM OTHER POWERS
— WALKEROIVKS HIS PAROLE OF HONOR— GOES HOME AT HIS OWN BXPBNSK —
GIVES HIMSELF UP TO MARSHAL BYNDEB8 — SENOR YHISARRI WRITES TO MR.
OASS — SAYS NICARAGUA CONFIRMS THB CONTRACT WITH THB TRANSIT COM-
PANY — THANKS THE UNITED STATES FOR TAKING WALKER AWAT— TBlNKS
BBB DID THB BANBSOMB TBIBfl — WABTB BIB LBTTBB »UBi4BBB]>.
The decree of Nicaragua to suspend the Transit, in the
event of the appearance of freebooters in Central America is
dated Managua, August 31, 1857, and is as follows:
** Adiiiinistrative Department of the Supreme Government
of the Republic of Nicaragua— God 1 Union ! Liberty I — The
(235)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
236 NIOARAOXTA.
Supreme Ezecati?e Power has been pleased to issae the fol-
lowing decree :
Whereas, the Atlantic and Pacific Maritime Canal Com-
pany are about to commence the re-establishing of the
line of Transit from one sea to the other, from San Juan
del Norte, to San Juan del Sur, and vice versa, as it is stipu-
lated in the agreement of the 22d of September, 1849, the sup-
plementary one of the 11th of April, 1850, and in the last of
the 19th of June of the present year, which resolves the con-
ditions of Article 30 of the original contract ; and-—
** Whereas, said establishment is of the highest interest to
the United States of North America, and for the nations of
the world in general, which advantages the Government of
Nicaragua protects, so long as the freebooters shall not make
attempts against the Independence of this Republic, and that
of the other States of Central America : Decrees,
" Article 1. The Republic of Nicaragua protests against all
and whatever attempts which freebooters and pirates, of any
denomination or from any quarter, may make against her in-
dependence, or against that of any other of the States.
** Article 2. From the moment that such freebooters may
make their appearance, and that it shall be known that they
are preparing a new invasion, or that in effect tbey intend such
against the Republic or against the other States of Central
America, the Transit shall be suspended, as all the effects of
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
LIEUT. ALMT APPLIES FOB INSTBT70TIONS. 237
tbe agreeroent entered into with the Maritime Canal Company
on the 1 9th of June.
"Article 3. Should such an attempt or invasion take place
after the re-establishment of the Transit by said Company, and
the latter have complied strictly with the conditions of the
contract relative to assistance to Nicaragua in defending her
independence, her sovereignty over the Isthmus, and the nea-
trality of the same ; or should said Company, before the resto-
ration of the Transit, lend efficient aid and co-operation in
said defense, it will, in the former case, continue in operation,
and in the latter, the Transit shall not be closed, nor will any
change be allowed in the exercise of the rights stipulated for
the Company in said contract.
" Article 4. Let this be communicated to the Minister
Plenipotentiary in Washington, to the President of the Com-
pany, and to the Ministers on the Diplomatic list."
The following letter from Lieut. Almy, dated Oct. T, 184T,
to the Secretary of the Navy, asking for instructions relative
to the course to be adopted by him in the event of seizing a
''suspicious vessel," bears upon the question of the Right of
Search, and is highly interesting, as is also the Secretary's re-
ply thereto, dated Oct. 12, 1857.
** In regard to the instructions received by me from the
Navy Department, dated the 3d instant, I am there referred
for my guidance to the law enacted by Congress, approved
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S88 NIO^BAQUA.
April 80, 1818,eiitit1ed 'An Act for the pnnishment of certain
crimes against the United States/ and am also referred to a
Circular issued by the State Department, dated September 18,
1857, addressed to Tarious civil officers of the United States.
** These directions to preserve the ueutrality of the country
are very plain for the government of officers where they are re-
qtiired to act in the ports of, or in the jurisdiction of, the
United States ; bat I must confess that I might find myself
embarrassed when required to act in a foreign and neutral
port. Therefore, I mast be pardoned for soliciting from the
Honorable Secretary of the Navy answers to certain questions,
and more specific instroctions in the premises.
" Suppose, for instance, that, while lying in a port of Central
America, an American steamer should enter having on board a
large namber of men whom I saspect of being ' fillibusters'— «
people intending to land for the purpose of obtaining pos-
session of the country, and of forming a Government there.
Must I seize this vessel and bring her into a port of the United
States, or merely use the force placed at my command to pre-
vent their lauding ?
'* It is generally conceded that American citizens have a
right to travel and go where they please. Suppose that this
suspicious body of men inform me that they are going to
travel — that their intention is to cross the Isthmus, or intend
to settle peaceably in the country for the purpose of developing
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WHAT THS 8ECRBTART OF THE NAVT SAYS. 239
its a^icdltiiral resoarces ; icdeed, that they bftre been inTited
to come and settle there 7
''These and other delicate points and kindred questions
which may suggest themselves to the Honorable Secretary of
the Navy, I deem it necessary to be enlightened upon in order
that I may not compromise the Government, and at the same
time be enabled to assert and exerbise the power entrusted to
my hands with due spirit, dignity, and justice."
The Secretary writes as follows :
" In reply to your letter of the fth instant, it is true that
American citizens have a right to travel and to go where they
please, when engaged in lawful pursuit, but not to violate the
laws of their own or of any other country. They have a right
to expatriate and to become citizens of any country which is
willing to receive them, but not to make that right a mere
cloak and cover for a warlike expedition against it or its
Oovemment. Tour instructions do not authorize you to act
arbitrarily, or upon mere suspicion. Yon will not seize an
American vessel, or bring her into port, or use the force undei
your command to prevent her landing her passengers upon
mere sospicion. Toa will be careful not to interfere with law*
ful commerce. But where you find that an American vessel is
manifestly engaged in carrying on an expedition or enterprise,
from the territories or jurisdiction of the United States against
tiie U'rri lories of Mexico, Nicaragua, or Costa Rica, contrary
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S40 mOARAOUA.
to the 6th section of the Act of Congress of April 20, 181ft,
already referred to, yon will use the force under jour command
to prevent it, and will not permit the men or arms engaged in
it, or designed for it^ to be landed in any part of Mexico or
Centra] America."
The following letter from Commodore Paulding, dated
December 15, 1857, Flag-Ship Wabash, off Aspinwall, to the
Secretary of the Navy, is apropos —
'' My letter of the 12th instant informed the Department
that I had broken np the camp of General Walker, at Punta
Arenas, disarmed his lawless followers, and sent them to Nor-
folk in the Saratoga. The General came here with me, and
will take passage in one of the steamers for New York, where
he will present himself to the Marshal of the District.
** The Department being in possession of all the facts in re-
lation to Walker's escape with his followers from the United
States, as well as the letters of Captain Chatard and Walker
to me after he landed at Point Arenas, the merits of the whole
question will, I presume, be fully comprehended.
" I could not regard Walker and his followers in any other
light than as outlaws who had escaped from the vigilance *of
the officers of the Government, and left our shores for the pur-
pose of rapine and murder, and I saw no other way to vindi-
cate the law and redeem the honor of our country than by
disarming and sending them home. In doing so, I am sensible
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WHAT COMMODORE PAULDING SATS. 241
of the responsibility that I have incurred, and confidently look
to the Oovernment for my justification. Regarded in its true
light, the case appears to me a clear one ; the points few and
strong. Walker came to Point Arenas from the United
States, having, in violation of law, set on foot a military
organization to make war on a people with whom we are at
peace. He landed there with armed men and munitions of
war, in defiance of the guns of a ship-of-war placed there to
prevent his landing. With nothing to show that he acted by
authority, he formed a camp, hoisted the Nicaragnan flag,
called it the ' head-qaarters of the Army of Nicaragua,' and
signed himself the Commander-in-chief.
'' With this pretension he claimed the right of a lawfd
general over all persons and things within sight of his flag.
Without right or authority he landed fifty men at the mouth
of the river Colorado, seized the fort of Castillo, on the San
Juan, captured steamers and the goods of merchants in transit
to the interior, killed men, and made prisoners of the peaceful
inhabitants, sending to the harbor of San Juan del Norte
some thirty or forty men, women, and children in the steamer
liforgan. '
" In doing these things withoat the show of authority, tbej
were guilty of rapine and murder, and must be regarded as
outlaws and pirates. They can have no claim to be regarded
in any other light. Humanity, as well as law and justice, and
16
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
242 NICARAGUA.
national honor, demanded the dispersion of these lawless men.
The remnant of these miserable beings who surrendered at
RiTas were conveyed in this ship last summer to New York,
and their sufferings are yet fresh in the memory of all on
board.
"Besides the sufferings that would necessarily be inflicted
upon an innocent and nnoffending people, these lawless fol-
lowers of General Walker, misguided and deceived into a
career of crime, would doubtless have perished in Central
America, or their mutilated and festering bodies have been
brought back to their friends at the expense of their country.
" For the above reasons, which appear to my mind quite
snfficient, I have disarmed and sent to the United States
General William Walker and his outlawed and piratical fol-
lowers for trial, or for whatever action the Government in its
wisdom may think proper to pursue.
** Captain Ommanny, of H. B. M. ship Brunswick, offered
to co-operate with me in removing the party from Point
Arenas, but as they were my countrymen, I deemed it proper
to decline the participation of a foreign flag."
General Walker accordingly took passage in a mail steamer
from Aspinwall for New York, preferring this to a Govern-
ment vessel, as will be seen by the following. It is dated
United States Steam Frigate Wabash, off San Juan del Norte,
December 11, 1857, and signed "William Walksb."
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WALKER DELIVERS HIMSELF TO MARSHAL RTNBERS. 243
" The option being given me to go to the United States
in the Saratoga, or take passage at my own expense from
Aspinwall to New York, I have preferred to return by way
of Aspinwall, and will deliver this communication, in person,
to the Marshal for the Southern District of New York."
The communication referred to was addressed by Commo-
dore Paulding to Isaiah Rynders, Marshal for the Southern
District of New York. It is of the same date as the above,
was duly delivered, and is as follows :
** This will be handed to you by General William Walker,
who has given me his parole of honor that he will present it
to you in person. With the naval force ot this squadron I
arrested General Walker on Punta Arenas, on the 8th instant,
for a violation of the neutrality laws of the United States, he
having set on foot in the United States an unlawful military
organization to make war upon a people with whom we are
at peace, and was, at the time of his arrest, at the head of said
organization, in the act of making war, as above stated.
*'As Marshal for the Sonthem District of New York, I
consign him to your custody."
The following, from Senor Yrisarri to Mr. Cass, contains
the confirmation of the contract made with the Atlantic and
Pacific Ship Canal Company, and other matters of interest.
It is dated December 30th, 185T.
'' The undersigned, Minister Plenipotentiary of the Republic
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S44 NIOABAQUA.
of Nicarafnia, has the honor of commaDicating to his Excel-
lency the Secretary of State of the United States, that on the
15th of last month the aathority of the Republic of Nicaragua
was assumed by General Martinez, elected to the presidency
l)y an immense majority of TOtes, and that one of the first
acts of the new head of that Republic was to confirm the
appointment made in the person of the undersigned by former
national governments as Envoy Extraordinary and Minister
Plenipotentiary to the Government of the United States. .
'' The undersigned deems it also to be his duty to inform
his Excellency the Secretary of State, that the Constituent
Assembly of Nicaragua has approved and confirmed the con-
tract made by the undersigned with the American Atlantic
and Pacific Ship Canal Company, the only one vested with
the privilege of carrying across the Isthmus — as the only one,
also, which, for the present and so long as the Government
will not have otherwise disposed — ^has the right to carry emi-
grants to that country, under such conditions as have been
iopposed on said Company. All other emigrants or colonizers,
whatsoever, that may be conveyed to that country will be re-
fused admission, and compelled to depa,rt from 'the territory
of the Republic ; or they will be dealt with as enemies of the
Republic should they appear there in the character borne by
those lately introduced by the incorrigible adventurer William
Walker.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
6EN0R TRISARRI LIKES THE AMERICAN EAQLE. 245
''The Qodersigned, in the name of the three gOTernments
which he represeats, returns thanks to the Government of the
XJuited iStates for having taken away the adventurer William
Walker and his invading band from the point of which they
Lad taken possession on the coast of Nicaragua ; thus freeing
those friendly countries from the evils with which they would
have been visited had these disturbers of the peace of nations
been allowed the possibility of increasing their forces by new
recruits. Those who, in the service which the Government
of the United States has rendered to its friend, the Republic
of Nicaragua, would seek for a warrant to say that the Nica-
raguan territory has been violated, will hardly find it, from
the moment that the world will have learned that the Govern-
ment of Nicaragua, far from complaining of a violation of
her territory, looks upon that act as an assistance, directed
in behalf of its inviolability, which was wounded, in effect, by
certain adventurers from the United States ; and that it con-
siders such assistance extended by this Government, as a con-
sequence of the measures which, by his note of the 14th of
September last, the undersigned had asked this Goveniment
to adopt, giving orders to the navy of the United States to
capture the violators of the laws of neutrality.
" The point from which Commodore Paulding forced away
those bandits, the violators of the laws of all nations, and, as
such, justly assimilated, by the law of nations, to pirates and
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
246 NICARAGUA.
foes of mankiDd, is an almost desert one, on which there
exists no Nicaraguan anthorities that conld have managed
the apprehension of those felons. Ni^ragna, therefore, con-
siders that the proceedings of Commodore Paolding against
Walker and his horde were entirely justifiable ; for, as a man-
of-war of any nation may take up pirates from a desert island,
or one so thinly peopled that they can assert their dominiop
over it^ although that island might belong to another sover-
eign nation, just so can bandits be apprehended, as enemies
of the human race, by the armed vessels of a friendly nation,
on a point of a foreign coast, which may be placed under cir-
cumstances like to those of the island mentioned by way of
illustration.
''Considering it highly important that the tenor of this
note — especially the portion touching emigration to Nicara-
gua — should be made public, the undersigned would enter
tain the hope that the Secretary of State will find no objec-
tion to have its contents published.
"The undersigned, with highest consideration, has the
honor of tendering to the Secretary of State the renewed
assurance that he is his respectful servant."
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER XXIV.
LANDING OP COLUMBUS ON THB IfOSQUITO SHORE— ARB THB X08QUITOB8 AN IN-
DBPBNDBNT NATION? — WHAT VISCOUNT PALMBRSTON SATS ABOUT IT — THB
OLATTON AND BULWBR TREATY — CONFLICTING YIBWS AS TO ITS CONSTRUCTION
— THB ENGLISH CHARGE D'AFFAIRES TO THB GOVERNMENT OF NICARAGUA —
A RUNNING FIRE OF GASCONADE — THB SAME OFFICIAL ON BOUNDARY LINBS^
WHAT B0NNTCA8TLB SATS — TRBATIBS OF PEACE, BOUNDARIES AND COM-
MERCE BETWEEN GREAT BRITAIN AND SPAIN — WHAT AN OLD ENGLISH AUTHOR
BATS — MOTION TO CENSURE IN THE HOUSE OF LORDS — REFUSAL — THB SAM-
BOES — PROBABLE ORIGIN OF THE MOSQUITO NAME — THE MOSQUITO SHORE
COMPLBTELT EVACUATED — THE SAMBOES IN A REAL ESTATE OPBRATION — THE
DOG IN THE MANGER — REVOLTED NEGROES FROM ST. DOMINGO— THE PRODUC-
TIONS OF THB MOSQUITOES — BELIZE — ITS ARMORIAL BEARINGS — SURPLICE
FEES.
Columbus landed upon the Mosquito Coast, on Sanday,
August the fourteenth, A. D. 1502, and is said to have taken
formal possession of the country. A gun bearing his name,
has been found imbedded in the sand, about twelve miles north
of Greytown. This territory, held by the Republic of Nicar-
(24T)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S48 NIGARAQUA.
agna, to be bat the Atlantic margin of her domain, and as
strongly eontroTerted by Great Britain, has a present historic
importance, as to whether the Moscos or Mosquitoes, in fact,
be an independent, sovereign nation. Whether they ever have
been, is a mooted question, and hence we approach the sabject,
aware of the importance of oar position, nor shall we exceed
the boands of evidence in endeavoring to illastrate oar pages.
A previous chapter on this subject, was general in its tone.
We shall particularize now, and uphold the views of the United
States. When the question was broached, the subjoined was
presented to Mr. Lawrence, in which, as to whether the Pro-
tectorate is of modem data or not, as claimed by Great Britain,
is set forth. It is dated. Foreign Office, Jan. 5, 1850, and is
as follows :
"Viscount Palmerston presents his compliments to Mr.
Lawrence, and begs to communicate to him, for his perusal, a
translation in Spanish of a letter from Mr. Chatfield, her
Majesty's Charge d'Affaires in Guatemala, addressed to the
Government of Nicaragua, on the 5th of September last, con-
taining a statement of facts, showing the nature of the connec-
tion which has existed since the middle of the Seventeenth
century, between Great Britain and the Mosquito nation." —
(Senate, Doc, 27, p. 50.)
We must not overlook the fact, that the " Clayton and Bul-
wer Treaty" was concluded between the United States and
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE GLAYTOiN AND BULWEB TREATY. 249
Qreat Britain, April 19, 1850, and proclaimed in July of the
same year. John M. Clayton, in his letter dated, Department
of State, Washington, May 7, 1850^ informs the Country, that
he has ''negotiated a Treaty with Sir Henry Bulwer;" and in
conclusion, he adds, " Her (Qreat Britain's) protectorate will
be reduced to a shadow — siat nominis umbra, for she can
neither occupy, fortify, or colonize, or exercise dominion or
control in any part of the Mosquito Coast or Central America.
To attempt to do either of these things, after the exchange of
ratifications, would inevitably produce a rupture with the
United States. By the terms, neither party can occupy to
protect, nor protect to occupy.'' Sir Henry Biilwer denied
this construction in his letters to Mr. Webster, in which he
holds, "that the Convention was not designed to affect the
position of Her Majesty in respect to the Mosquito Shore.''
On the 15th of August, 1850, the English Representative in
Central America, addressed the Government of Nicaragua as
follows : ** Instead of insisting on its supposed rights to the
Mosquito Shore, Nicaragua would best consult her interests
by at once making good terms with England ; for resistance in
this matter will be of no avail. It is impossible that Nicaragua
should be ignorant of her Britannic Majesty's relation to the
Mosquito question, as she has before her the letter of Viscount
Palmerston, of the date of April 15th last, (written, as will be
seen, after the note to Mr. Lawrence,) which was sent to Nicar-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
250 NICARAGUA.
agoa at a later period, in which he declares in the most clear
and direct terms, the utter impossibility of acceding to the
pretensions of Nicaragua. On the other hand, the Treaty of
Messrs. Clayton and Balwer, about which you have so much to
say, and in which yon .express so much confidence, expressly
recognizes the Mosquito Kingdom, and sets aside the righls
which yon pretend Nicaragua has on that coast. The true
policy for Nicaragua, is to undeceive herself in this respect,
and to put no further confidence in the protestations or
assurances of pretended friends, (viz. Americans). It will be
far better for her to come to an understanding without delay,
with Great Britahi ; on which nation, depends not only the
welfare and commerce of the State, but also the probability of
accomplishing any thing positive concerning inter-oceanic
commuuication through her territories ; because it is only ia
London that the necessary capital for such an enterprise can
be found."
This certainly is gasconading to some purpose, though the
Qovernment of Nicaragua still believed there was almost as
mnch capital to be had, for a remunerative enterprise, in the
United States as in London. Again, on December 5th, fol-
lowing, the same official informed, in writing, the Government
of Nicaragna, of the boundaries " which Her Majesty's Gov-
ernment proposes to assert for the Mosquito King" — Thus :—
" The undersigned, her Britannic Majesty's Charge d'Affairea
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BOUNDARY LINES OF THE MOSQUITO TEBBITOBT. 251
in Central America, with this view, has the honor to declare
to the Minister of Foreign Relations of the Supreme Govern-
ment of Nicaragua, that the general boundary line of the Mos-
quito Territory, begins at the Northern extremity of the boun-
dary line between the district of Tegucigalpa, in Honduras^
and the jurisdiction of New Segovia ; and after following the
Northern frontiers of New Segovia^ it runs along the Sovih-
^•astern limit of the District of Matagalpa and Chontales, and
shence in an Eastern course, until it reaches the Machuca
Rapids, on the River San Juan?^
•' The Mosquito Shore, (says Bonnycastle), was held by Great
Britain for eighty years," which agrees with the date 1783,
when a Treaty of peace, boundaries, and commerce, was
declared between it and Spain. Article 6th of said Treaty
stipulates, that *' English subjects shall have the right of cutting,
loading, and carrying away logwood in the District lying
between the River Wallis, or Belize, and Rio Hondo." Re-
member thai this is distant hundreds of miles from (he
Mosquito Goast, " Therefore, (we continue), all the English
who may be dispersed in any other parts, whether on the Span-
ish Continent, (main land,) or in any of the Islands whatsoever,
dependent on the aforesaid Spanish Continent, and for what-
ever reason it might be, without exception, shall return within
the District which has been above described, in the space of
eighteen months, and for this purpose orders shall be issued on
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
252 NIOAAAOUA.
the part of His Britannic Majestj."— (Sen. t>oc T5, Vol X,
page 16.)
Was this then not an actaal abandonment of iany heretofore,
or tlien pretended claims upon the part of Great Britain to the
Mosquito Territory f By their covenanting to the foregoing,
did tliey not solemnly waive all claim to space, outside of the
therein- prescribed bounds and metes f
In 1786, July 14, in a further Treaty between the sanae
parties, by Article 1st, it was stipulated, '' His Britannic Ma-
jesty^s sulijects and the other colonists who have hitherto en-
joyed the protection of England, shall evacuate the country of
the Mosquitoes, as well as the Continent in general, and the
Islands adjacent, without exception, situated beyond the litie
hei-einafter described as what ought to be the position of the
extent of territory granted by His Catholic Majesty to the
English, for the uses specified in the third Article of the present
Convention ; and in addition to the country already granted to
them in virtue of the stipulations agreed upon by the Com-
missioners of the two Crowns in 1763. The lines specified in
the other articles of the Treaty, as the boundaries of the special
possession of the English, were the Rio Hondo on the North,
and the River Sibun on the South, together with the small
Island of Casino, St. George's Key or Cayo Casino, and the
cluster of small islands which are situate opposite that part
of the coast occupied by the cutters, at the distance of eight
Digitized by VjOOQIC
TREATY BETWEEN SPAIN ANP GREAT BRITAIN. 253^
leagaes from the River Siban, a place which has always been
found well adapted for that purpose."
In Article Tth, all the foregone conclnsions of the Treaty of
1783 are confirmed, with added stringent restrictions, liberty
being granted on the pai:t of Spain, for the English to cat
mahogany, &c. Upon the part of Oreat Britain, in Article
2d thereof, His Britannic Majesty agreed, that "sbonld there
still remain any persons so daring as to presnme, by retiring
into the interior conntry, to endeavor to obstruct the entire
'evacnation already agreed upon, His Britannic Majesty, so far
from affording them the least succor, or even protection, will
disown them in the most solemn manner, as he will equally do
those who may hereafter attempt to settle upon the territory be*
longing to the Spanish domain." — (Sen, Doc, 75, Vol. X p. 23.)
Article I4th stipulates, to wit: "His Catholic Majesty
prompted solely by motives of humanity, promises to the King
of England, that he will not again exercise any act of severity
against the Mosquitoes inhabiting in part the countries
which are to be evacuated by virtue of the present Convention,
on account of the connections which may have anbsisted be-
tween the said Indians and the English ; and His Britannic
Majesty, on his part, will strictly prohibit all his subjects from
furnishing arms or warlike stores to the Indians in genera],
sitnated upon the frontier of the Spanish possessions." — (Sen,
Doc, 16, Vol X. p. 13.)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
854 NIOABAQUA.
In this connection we famish, as worthy of attention, the
following from Vol. 2, p. 423, of '* A Journey through Spain,"
by Townsend, published in London, 1792. ''Ever since the
war, the exertions of Spain have been incessant to render her
marine respectable ; but more especially when I was there, all
was in motion, and the Minister of the Marine was making
the most strenuous efforts to equip a formidable fleet This
was done to vindicate their claims upon the Mosquito Shore,
although that territory was never subject to the Grown of
Spain, and the independent Princes who have dominion there
had been for ages in alliance with the English Nation. When
I returned to England, I examined the nature and extent of
the settlement which caused so much uneasiness to Spain. It
consisted of no more than five hundred and sixty-nine freemen,
including the women and their children, with one thousand
seven hundred and sixty-three black slaves, and two hundred
and four head of cattle.
'' The uneasiness arose, therefore, not from the number of the
settlers, but from their contraband trade ; from their communi-
cation with the Mosquitoes, who, in time of war, had been
used to molest the Spaniards ; and from the apprehension that,
by their means, the English, ih some future war, might estab-
lish themselves in force on the Lake of Nicaragua. This settle-
ment was certainly valuable to England as the connecting
medium between Jamaica and the Spanish Main for the ex-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WHAT AN OLD ENGLISH AUTHOR SAYS. 255
change of our manufactures with Guatemala against indigo,
cochineal, silver, and nard dollars. Indeed, the indigo, grow-
ing wild on all that coast, yields the best commodity, and no
country prodaces finer sugar-canes.
*' The infant colony made aboat a handred and fifty hogs-
heads in one year ; but being obliged to pay the foreign duty
in England, the mills were suffered to decay. Mahogany was
a principal article of their commerce ; and of this the annual
export was about three million feet. Besides these articles,
they sent to England foar tons of turtle-shells, paying a duty
of one shilling a ponnd, with a hundred and twenty thousand
pounds weight of sarsaparilla, the daty of which, at seven
pence a pound, was three thousand five hundred pounds; a
sum more than sufficient to discharge all the expenses of this
new settlement.
** Such was the value of our possessions on the Mosquito
Shore, that neither the Minister who signed the preliminaries
of peace at the close of a disastrous war, nor his immediate
successor in office, who ratified that peace, would agree to
their relinquishment ; yet, in the year 1787, the settlement was
evacuated, and our most faithful allies were abandoned to the
mercy of their inveterate enemies."
March 26th, 1 787, Lord Rowdon brought a motion in the
House of Lords to censure the king's ministers for having
given up the Mosquito Shore to Spain. (Contents, 17 ; Non-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
266 NIOABAOUA.
contents 53.) The ministry defended the treaty, holding
'' that tile British settlement on the Mosquito Shore was not
a regular and lawful settlement, and that the Mosquito nation
were not allies, and therefore Great Britain was not bound to
protect them." The vote of censure was refused by a large
majority of the peers. We have here, then« a total abandon-
ment by Oreat Britain of all claim, affiliation, or even interest
io the regal brother whom they lately embraced so warmly.
We have given the account of the coronation of a Mosqnito
king at Belize, in a former chapter. When the Duke of
Albermarle was Qovemor of Jamaica, the Indians put them-
selves under his protection, and their king had a commission
granted him from Great Britain. Since that time, it is as-
serted, the new monarch always goes to Jamaica to receive this
document, the Indians refusing Co acknowledge his authority
nntil he does so. They are confidently asserted by many
authors to be descendants of slaves from Guinea, who were
wrecked on this coast They are called Samboe Mosquitoes.
(Very significant of the Red-man's origin.) The crown is
succeeded to hereditarily, and the king (as he is called) is a
despotic monarch. The musquitoes annoy them excessively,
and probably hence they may have received their title.
July 4th, 1787, Colonel Grimarest, as Commissioner from
the King of Spain, and His Majesty's Superintendent, Des-
pard, went up the rivers to mark the limits, and to endeavor
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE SAMBOES IN A REAL ESTATE OPERATION. 257
to discover the soarces of the Belize and the Siban. The
said Commissioner pablished, on his retnm to Belize, permis-
sion to the English settlers to enter npon the new district,
agreeable to the late treaty with Spain, viz. : 1786. Jalj 7»
1.787, Colonel Lawrie, late Superintendent on the Mosquito
Shore, arrived at Belize in His Majesty's ship Camilla^
Captain Hull, and the Mosquito shore was completely evac-
uated, conformably to treaty.
July 10th, 1787, David Lamb, Surveyor, was employed by
the Superintendent to lay out lots fifty feet by one hundred,
to be ballotted for, on the south point of Belize River mouth.
August 2d, 1787, the ballot took place, and the Superin-
tendent in person delivered possession to those who drew
them ; chiefly amongst the settlers from the Mosquito Shore.
November 19th, 1791, two hundred and seventeen revolted
negroes from St. Domingo were disembarked on English Key,
distant seven leagues only from Belize, by the French ship,
L'Emanuel, Captain Colmin, he having been prohibited from
selling them by the magistrates.
The legal territory for Qreat Britain, hence, was Belize
and its dependencies, as described. It was to this pointy
then, that this power induced the Mosquitoes to flock, where
they employed themselves in fishing among the Keys, particu-
larly for the hawksbill, a species of turtle, which are plentiful,
and from which is obtained the tortoise-shell. For this they re-
17
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
858 NICARAGUA.
ceired from six to aeyen dollars per poond^ and at timea moco.
Here, then, thej centred, and here their kings were crownec^
that the tribe, in Mo, might be concentrated aboat or near the
merchants. Bat while England forbade the sale of the
reyolted slaves from St. Domingo, we find she dealt in the
article, probably 9ub roaa in a manner, yet de facto.
The town of Belize is at the mouth of the river of the
same name, and was so called from its discoverer, Wallice, a
noted Baccaneer, who made it his place of retreat. The Span-
iards write it Waliz, and sabseqnently it became cormpted
into Balleze, or as it is now called Belize. Its armorial bear<p
ings may be read thus : Chief Dexter — Argent — ^the Union
Jack, proper ; Chief Sinister on the Proper — the Chiefs dl
Tided from the Body of the Shield by a chevron-shaped Parti-
tion from the Fess of the Dexter and Sinister base— Points—
the intermediate space, azure — a Ship with set sails on the
Sea^ passant proper — Crest, Mahogany tree; Motto, ** Suh
umbra fioreo" — Supporters, neoross ; that to the left, with
a paddle — ^to the right, with an axe over his shoulder. The
motto is appropriate. The poor fellews flourish everywhere
in the shade — and — clover.
Bat Great Britain disavows slavery ; her aim ever has been
to its extinction ; and yet before me lies a document, official,
confirmed bj the magistrates of the settlement, dated Septem-
ber 19, 1817, wherein is embraced the Table of Fees payable
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
8UBPLIGB FEES OF THE ENGLISH SETTLEMENT. 259
to the Clerk of St John's Church. Items three and four,
nnder head of Baptisms. Slaves, if ten in number, or under,
at one time, each three shillings and four pence ; above ten,
at one time, and if owned by one person, each two shillings
and six pence. Under the head of Marriages, we find — Of
slaves, gratis I — ^Burials. — Of slaves above ten years old, five
shillings ; under ten, three shillings and four pence. The
above are classed in Table of Surplice Fees. Confirmed June
27, 1817. " The Law requires that these Fees be paid at
the time of service, and in defaolt of which,, they are recover*
able by Warrants of Distress. Slave Fees are itrvariably die-
frayed by the owners.^
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER XXV.
*■■ MOSQUITO COAST ▲«▲!«— USUBPATIOITS OF lITttLAVD— CLAIVS OF SPAIir^-
IVOBPBIIDBIIOB OF ttUATIV ALA — EKQhAJID'S ACKROWLBDOMBNTll — TBI COL-
OHT OF BAT ISLAHDB — OOFFLICTIFtt CLAIMS — AM ACT OF TBB BHGLISH PAR-
UAMBMT — TMB TBBATT OF 1850 — THB PBOTBCTOBATB FICTION AHD LORD
JOHR BD88IL — TBB UNITBD STATBS AHD 6RBAT BBITAIR — LORD CLARRKDOH'S
AROUMBHT — MB. CLATTOM AS RBRDBRBD IT MR. LAWRBHCB — LORD CLARBM-
DOH AdAIM— MB. WBB8TBB MI8C0M8TRUBD— LORD JOHH RU88BL TO TMM
POIBT.
We shall pnrsae the history of the Colonization of Great
Britain on this coast, and shall prove her desire to act in bad-
faith with Spain prior to meeting her demands upon the United
States, and upholding the position the latter assumed, predi-
cated upon the Clayton and Bulwer Treaty.
The frequent and continued breaches of the Treaty of
1786, and consequent usurpations upon the part of England,
were* sustained by Lord Clarendon, who alleged " that the
Treaty of 1786 was abrogated in 18 U by the war between the
(260)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
nnOSPENDENCE OF aUATEltfALA. 261
contracting parties, at which time the Belize Settlement ex-
tended to the Sarstoun River, which is far Sooth of the Siban
the prescribed boandary. In 1812 Spain adopted a new and
written Constitntion, in defiance of the despotic powers of
Europe ; said Constitution contained this Article : '' Guate-
mala, with the internal Provinces of the East and West, and
the adjacent lalands in both Seas form part of the Spanish
dominion." Under this Constitation, Spain was recognized
by England, who guarantied her sovereignty.
Guatemala in 1823 discarded the Spanish yoke, and became
a Confederated Republic, and its Constitution thus described
the domain claimed : " The Territory of the Republic is the
same which formerly comprised the ancient Kingdom of Guate-
mala, with the exception for the present of Chiapas." This
territory included the whole of the Mosquito Coast. The
British settlement between the Silver and the Rio Hondo,
called Belize, belonging within the Spanish Province of
Yucatan, by the revolution came under the sway of Mexico.
England acknowledged the latter's independence, stipulating
that British subjects, dwelling in its territories, " should enjoy
the rights which had been granted to them by Spain in the
Treaty of 1786."
Did not England herein reaffirm her own exclusion from Cen-
tral Ameiica? Where then was in fact, any Mosquito Kingdom,
OS a distinct and independent territory f If such had existence,
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S9M MIQi&AOUA.
they were heathens, liaving neither king, chnrchee, ministry^
parliament, schools, or council ; no armj^ nary ; no treasury,
customs, taxes, revenue, police, industry, trade, and no inter-
course diplomatic with any other people. True, the English
authorities were present; and from Great Britain did they
derire their powers and salaries.
On tike Uth of July, fourteen days subsequent to the nego-
tiation <if the '' Clayton and Bulwer Treaty," a prodaiBation
was issued by the GFovernment of Great Britain, constituting
the Islands of Buatan, in the Caribbean Sea— -in Central
America, and not in British Honduras, four hundred miles
distant from Belize— Bonacea, Utiila, Barbaret, Helene^ and
Mocrat, a colony under the Colony of the Bay Islands. Rua>
tan and Bonacea are said to be, on account of their fine bar*
bors, good soils, fine air, abundant animals, and their com-
manding sites, " the Gardens of the West ladies, the Key to
Spanish America, and a new Gibraltar."
The United States insist upon England's discontinuing this
new Colony. The latter refuses, alleging that the Colony is
within the Belize Settlements, or British Honduras, and being
80, is excepted from the Treaty. The Islands excepted are
only small ones in the neighborhood of and assigned to the
Belize in the Treaty of 1786, while the Bay Islands are neither
small, nor in the vicinity of the Belize ; they are certainly of
Tast importance as to location and wealth.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THB COLONY OF BAY ISLANDS. 263
The Treaty of 1786 assigned them to the "Spanish Conti-
nent/' and expressly excludes Great Britain from them.
Spain held them until the Revolntioa in Central America. In
1829 the State of Honduras assumed possession, and their en-
sign was planted on Rnatan. In 1839, England supplanted it
with her own, yet this was soon lowered, and that of Honduras
was restored.
Iq I8I7 the English Parliament passed a law, entitled "An
Act for the more effectual punishment of murders and man-
slaughters committed in places not within His Majesty's
dominions." The preamble runs thus: "Whereas grievous
murders and manslaughters have been committed at the settle-
ment in the Bay of Honduras, in South America, the same
Bay or settlement being for certain purposes in the possession
of and within the protection of His Majesty, by persons re-
siding within that settlement, &c." Parliament amended this
statute, in 1819, and reaffirmed that ''Belize was not within
the territories and dominions of Qreat Britain."
I faaye now proven that England never occupied the Belize,
save in subordination to the Spanish title. That in 1826,
Great Britain, in recognizing the Independence of Mexico',
expressly stipulated "for her settlement at the Belize, th6
privileges granted by the Treaty with Spain of 1786." And
again, I have shown that England, although in 1819 reaffirm*
ing that this settlement " was not witiiin her territories and
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S64 NIOARAOTTA.
dominions, yet alleges that by the war in 1812, the Treaty
was abrogated in 1814, althoogh she did not even then chal-
knge Spain's title, or allege a change in the nature or extent
of her possessions. To conciliate and to calm this vexed
question forever, the Treaty of 1850 was entered into, in which
Great Britain solemnly and forever reliuqnished and abandoned
whatever pretensions she may have ever before made to the
Bay Islands.''
The imposture of the Mosqnito King failed, and the pro-
tectorate fiction dissolved npon the pablicity of Lord John
Bnssel's statements, of January 19th, 1853. '* It is evident
(we quote him) that since Great Britain first assumed the
protection and defense of the Mosquito Indians, the positions
of all parties have changed. First, Spain, instead of exercising
absolute sovereignty over Central America, and prohibiting all
commerce on the coast under her sway, has entirely lost her
domain over the Continent from Cape Horn to Florida;
secondly, the Mosquito Indians, instead of governing their own
tribe, according to their own customs, furnish a name and title
to Europeans and Americans, who carry on trade at Greytown,
and along the Coast of Mosqnito, according to the usages of
civilized nations ; thirdly. Great Britain, instead of having an
interest in the defense of the Mosqnito Indians, for the sake of
rescuing part of the territory of Central America from Spanish
controli and obtaining an outlet for her, has no other interest
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE UNITED STATES AND GREAT BRITAIN. 265
in Mosqaito than that which is derived from an honorable
regard for her old connection with the Indian nation at Mos-
quito."
The United States from the foregoing, and especially insist-
ing upon the stipnlations of the Treaty of 1850, hold, that
Great Britain is bound to withdraw from the Mosquito Coast.
This is in turn denied by England, who asserts that the stipu-
lations are only prospective, and do not seize upon, or terminate
occupancy in a colony of hers which was existing at the time
of the concluding of the Treaty. She argues, such effect is
only inferential ; for, should it have been intended, it would
have been embodied, as an express renunciation. Great Britain
stipulates therein, that she will not, that is to say, after this
time henceforward, enter into, maintain any colony or occu-
pancy, or exercise any dominion over the Mosquito Coast. Then
why not have retired from, discontinue, give up, relinquish, and
abandon whatever colony, occupancy, or domain, of whatever
nature, she subsequently has maintained therein or thereon t
This entire concession she repeats ; " she will not, from this
time henceforward make use of any protection which she now
affords to any state or people, for the purpose of maintaining
any colony or occupation, or exercising any dominion whatever
on the Mosquito Coast."
The United States have no colony, occupancy, or dominion
of any nature on the Coast, or in any portion of Central Amer*
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
266 NICARAGUA.
ica, and they stipniate, that '' they never will dbtain or assame
any sach." Great Britain farther agrees, not only that she
will not obtain or assume any new colony, occapation, or
dominion there, but will not hereafter maintain or exercise
any snch that is now existing."
Lord Olarendoii argnes, that the English construction is
based after the ptiitciple of " neutrality. " He writes,— •'< Great
Britain has colonies, ooenpatioiis, and dominions in Centrftl
America ; the United States have none ; If England abandons
hers, she receives no equivalent for her surrendered advan-
tages.'' But the United States deny in Mo her title to these
colonies, occupations, and dominions, and say that of Nicaragua^
was held to be tbe more valid. Here they conflict, and hence
the mutual agreement to abandon Central America to the
States " existing there, to whom it belongs."
Abashed, yet not entirely mortified, England resumes the
contest of words^ and Lord Clarendon shelters his argument
under the conduct of Spain and the United States previous to
the Treaty ; true, Spain did not remonstrate against the pro-
tectorate during her last hours in America, for dhe was else-
where completely occupied and harassed with her insurgent
provinces; but prior to 1849, Central America, and the States
of Honduras, Guatemala, and Nicaragua, invited the United
States to challenge the loyally of the said protectorate. Then
we had no interest there« l^ut subsequently we did acquire a
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
MR. OLATTON AS BSNDEBXD BY MR. LAWRENCE. l^St
title and interest, and oar Govemment promptly announced its
opposition to the coutinnance of the protectorate.
The language of Mr. Clayton, as rendered by Mr. Lawrence,
is certainly very explicit : " Is Great Britain eager, or willing
that the question of her alleged protectorate should be tried at
the bar of the public opinion of the world ? Does she believe
that she can obtain credit for haring andertidten it fron a con-
Tiction that the Mosquitoes were cempeteBt to discharge iho
duties of sovereignty t Or is she disposed to hasard the notor-
iety of the fact, tliat the visor of royalty which she would fain
place upon the pseudo-mofMirch of that region, is too transparent
to conceal the features of a real sovereign ? Can Oreat Britam
imagine that the commercial nations of the world will tacitly
allow her, by means so invidious, to obtain substantial and
exclusive control over the right of way to the Pacific, by the
Port of San Juan, and the river of that name,* or to wrest the
sovereignty over that region from the rightful proprietor ? In
such pretensions, we trust that the United States, at least, wiU
never acquiesce.'* — (Sen. Doc, 27^ page 19« VaL IIL^ S^s.
2, S2d Cong,)
The resort of Lord Clarendon next is to the stipulation by
which the parties agree to invite all powers friendly to enter
into stipulations similar to those contained in the Treaty,
arguing that this agreement would include the Central Ameri-
can States, while if they should accept the invitatLoOi and
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
268 NIOAIUOUA.
■ign the Treaty, they would thereby, according to the constroc
tion of the Uuited States, renoaoce the territories in which
they exist A glance at the context shows that two classes
of States are here contemplated : one, not existing in Central
America ; the other, those which are already established there.
The first, only, are invited to imitate the example of the con-
tracting parties, and enter into their present stipolations with
the second class, to wit, the Central American States.
Lord Clarendon in his statement of September 11th, 1855,
resumes the argument thus : " If the Treaty had been intended
to act upon and terminate the protectorate, it would have
contained in specific terms a renunciation on the part of
Great Britain of the possessions and rights which, up to the
conclusion of the convention, she had claimed to maintain.
The treaty," he adds, '' would then have imposed upon Great
Britain the obligation to renounce possessions and rights
without any equivalent renunciation on the part of the XJuited
States. And still," he proceeds, " if the convention was in-
tended to impose upon Great Britain an obligation to with-
draw from portions of territories occupied by it, then the
Government of the Central American States would, by the
mere act of accession, sign away their rights to the teiritories
in which they were situated." And upon the same hypothesis,
he writes : " The British Government neither have the wish
to extend the limits of their possessions or the sphere of their
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
LORD CLARENDON AGAIN. 269
inflaence in that quarter, nor would any British interest be
promoted by doing so. But the British Goverument are not
prepared to contract either the one or the other."
And in contrast here, let me insert his statement, dated
May 3d, 1864. " It is proper that Her Majesty's Govern-
ment should at once state that Her Majesty has never held
any possessions whatever in the Mosquito country. But
although Great Britain held no possessions in the Mosquito
country, she undoubtedly exercised a great and extensive
influence over it as the protecting ally of the Mosquito king.'^
Here are exhibited variations we little expected ; but his lord-
ship proved his expertness upon the diplomatic-chromatic
scale in an eminent degree. His continuation will enlighten
ns probably. " Mr. Buchanan confounds the conditions of a
sovereignty and a protectorate, and, under this error, treats
the agreement * not to colonize, or occupy, or fortify, nor as-
sume, nor exercise dominion over,' as an agreement not to
protect. With respect to sovereignty, Great Britain never
claimed, and does not now claim or hold any sovereignty over
the Mosquito."
By custom of both European and American states, savage
tribes, though suffered to exercise some municipal powers,
have no actual sovereignty, for this is vested in the State or
nation which directly exercises or derives to itself the title
acquired by discovery. Did not Great Britain acquire and
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
KO NlOARAaUA.
maintaio until th« Treaty of Yersailles, in 1783, soyereignty^
within the domain of the original United States? Did not
France also acquire and maintain the same in Canada and
the West India Islands until the fall of Quebec in 1764, when
she transferred to Great Britain? Did not Spain acquire
title to the Floridas and the vast territory in Louisiana as
also in Mexico, Central and South America ? How, other-
wise^ did Denmark acquire her hold in the West Indies ?
Portugal her possessions, in Brazil, the Empire of which, now.
lests on the same title 1
By referring to the conversation had between Mr. Kives and
Lord Palmerston, will be perceived the apposite confession
of Great Britain to the present occasion. Lord Palmerston
admitted the general doctrine for which we contended " waa
the principle on which they conducted (t. e. the English) all
their relations with the Indian tribes in Canada ;. but that the
case of the Mosquitoes was " sui generis,^^ and stood upon its
own peculiar circumstances." Admitting the universal law, if
there are to be cases " md generis^^^ the totality ceases^ and
the universal fractured, becomes the customary, usual law.
Lord Clarendon contends that the English construction of
the Treaty of 1850 was sanctioned by Mr. Webster, then
Secretary of State. It is said that Mr. Webster advised
Mr. Marcoleta, the Nicaraguan Minister, to accept a Treaty
proposed to his State and Costa Bica by England, upon '' the
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
LORD JOHN BU8SEL TO THE POINT. 2tl
basis of that constraction ;" bat no doubt it was intended
solely as a compromise. It failed, however, and the United
States never endorsed the opinion of the Secretary, maintain-
ing their own construction rigidly and inviolate.
Lord John Kussel's letter, already in part inserted, speaks
pointedly and frankly and the conclusion of it is so direct
and positive, that we quit the discussion, assured of the
validity of the positioa assumed thereon by the United States.
His lordship writes: "The peculiarity of this case is, that
certain neighboring States deny altogether the independence
of Mosquito ; and the Mosquito nation are liable any day to
new incursions upon their territory. We can make no new
provision against this danger. Our policy is to do all that
honor and humanity require in behalf of the Mosquito nation ;
but we intend to adhere steadily to the Treaty of Washington
of the 19th of April, 1850, and not to assume any sovereignty
direct in Central America. '^
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER XXVI.
tarn nmm-ooiAvio OASAir— CBAwrsB fob ram TBAmir bovtb— bthopsis ov
ITt PBOTItlOKl— rrt IMPOBTAIIOB TO »■ UKITBD ITAni— POSTULATE OlP
PBESIDBirr MOimOB— BBlTlta HrrBRPBBBHCB— mOABAOUA PROTESTS — THB
CLATTOH AHD BULWBB TBBATT MOOTBD— MB. RITBS TO LOBD PALMBRSTON—
BBPLT OP TBB LATTBB—- OABDIRAL POINTS OP THB TBBATT — ^TRBATT OP COM
MBBCB AMD PBIBRDSBIP WITB BICARAGUA — TBB CANAL COMPANY'S CBARTBB
AMBVDBD— LBONBBB PROTBST— 8ATB MB PROM HT PIIIBMD8 !— TlVB LA
OBAHPA«BB 1 — TBB CABAL IB RUBIBU8 — TBB TRANSIT TANCtlBLB.
Thx Transit, or in other words, the roate per the Rio San
Jaan, from Orejtown on the Atlantic side to Lake Nicaragua,
thence across to Virgin Bay, and thence overland twelve miles,
to San Jaan del Sur on the Pacific, is a highway in which,
save as a speculation, Nicaragua itself has but little interest,
inasmuch as it develops no internal resources, no agricultural
or mineral wealth, conciliates neither the Serviies or the oppo-
nents, but is solely a source whence the State receives a profit,
an annual subsidy. That the route should be under a pro-
(272)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE GRANT FOR THE TRANSIT ROUTE. 273
tectorate, joint if desired, there cannot be a donbt, sincp
Nicaragaa convnlsed by revolutions is unable at present to
maintain either its tranquillity, or neutrality.
On the 2'7th of August, 1849, a Grant was obtained, and
ratified with an American Company on the 23d of September,
from which a Charter was consummated under the assurance
that if of a proper character, the American Government was
willing to extend to it its guarantees. A synopsis of tho
provisions therein contained, may prove at present, interesting^
It is as follows :
Ist. That the American Atlantic and Pacific Ship Canal
Company may construct a Ship Canal, at its own expense,
from the Port of San Juan, or any more feasible point on the
Atlantic, to the Port of Realejo, or any other point within the
territories of the Republic, on the Pacific, and make nse of all
lands, waters, or natural materials of the country for the
enterprise.
2d. The dimensions of the Canal shall be sufficiently great
to admit vessels of all sizes.
3d. The Grant is for the period of eighty-five years from
the completion of the work ; the preliminary surveys to be
commenced within twelve months ; the work to be completed
within twelve years, unless unforeseen events, such as earth-
quakes or wars, shall intervene to prevent it ; if not com-
pleted within that time, the charter to be forfeit, and whatever
work may have been done, to revert to the State ; at the end
18
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S74 moAstAQVJL
of elghtj-fire years the work to revert to the State free from
all indemnity for the capital invested ; the Company, never-
theless, to receive fifteen per cent annually of the net profits,
for ten years thereafter, if the entire eost shall not exceed
twenty million dollars ; bnt if it does exceed that sura, then it
shall receive the same per centage for twenty years thereafter.
4th. The Company to pay to the State ten thousand dollars
Bpon the ratification of the contract, and ten thousand dollars
annnally until the completion of the work ; also to give to the
State two hundred thousand dollars' worth of stock in the Canal,
npon' the issue of stock; the State to have the privilege of
taking five hundred thousand dollars of stock in the enter-
prise ; to receive for the first twenty years, twenty per cent,
annually out of the net profits of the Canal, after deducting
the interest on the capital actually invested, at the rate of
seven per cent. ; and also to receive twenty-five per cent,
thereafter, until the expiration of the Grant.
5th. The Company to have the exclusive right of navigating
the interior waters of the State by steam, and the privilege,
within the twelve years allowed for constructing the Canal, of
opening any land or other route, or means of transit or con-
veyance across the State ; in consideration of which, the Com-
pany shall pay, irrespective of interest^ ten per cent, of the net
profits of such transit to the State, and transport, both on
such route, and on the Canal, when finished, the officers of the
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
STN0P8IS OF ITS ^PBOYISIONS. 275
Government and its employees, when reqaired to do so, free
of charge.
6th. The Canal to be open to the Teasels of all nations,
subject only to certain fixed and aniform rates of toll, to be
established by the Company, with the sanction of the State,
graduated to induce the largest and most extended business
by this route ; these rates not to be altered without six months
previous notice, both in Nicaragua and the United States.
tth. The Contract, and the rights and privileges conceded
by it, to be held inalienably by the individuals composing the
Company
8th. All disputes to be settled by referees or commissioners
to be appointed in a specified manner
9tb. All machinery and other articles introduced into the
State for the use of the Company, to enter free of duty ; and
all persons in its employ to enjoy all the privileges of citizens,
without being subjected to taxation or military service.
10th. The State concedes to the Company, for purposes
of colonization, eight sections of land on the line of the Canal
in the valley of the River San Juan, each six miles square, and
at least three miles apart ; with the right of alienating the same,
under certain reservations; all settlers on these leads to be
subject to the laws of the country, being, however, exempt for
ten years from all taxes, and also from all public service, as
soon as each colony shall contain fifty settlers.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S76 NI0ABAOX7A.
11th. It is expressly stipulated, that the citizens, vessels,
products, aud manufactures of all nations shall be permitted to
pass upon the proposed Canal through the territories of Nicar-
agua subject to no other, nor higher duties, charges, or taxes
than shall be Imposed upon those of the United States ; pro-
Tided always that such nations shall first enter into the same
treatj-stipulations and guarantees, respecting said Canal, as
may be entered into between the State of Nicaragua and the
Uuited States.
Such are the provisions of the Charter, and as we now tread
upon the threshold of new and thickening events, let us
cautiously survey them, ere the fogs of bigotry and clouds
of dissension have arisen to dim the horizon.
The acquisition of California in 1848 by the United States,
the disclosure of its vast mineral wealth, its consequent politi-
cal organization, and social development, precipitated upon the
world the solution of a communication across the Isthmus, and
such a passage, however desirable to other nations, became
doubly so to the United States, for the purposes of commerce
and defense. With our sympathies, we had extended the
Spanish American States favorable commercial treaties.
In 1823, was announced the postulate of President Monroe.
-— *' The American Continents, by the free and independent
condition which they have assumed and maintained, are hence-
forth not to be considered subjects for further colonization by
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE THRBB RIVAL ROUTES. 27T
any European power.'* The United States declined to interfere
in the political affairs of the Spanish States, thoagh frequently
invoked to do so. Dawn was breaking in this benighted region,
and new life, with young, and healthy blood was about being
infused into the decrepit Asiatic branches, who, though richer,
and more imperial, had been outstripped in the race. The
Isthmus was about to be opened ; the youngest family on
this Continent had assumed a position where its voice com-
manded, and its skill directed the noble enterprise.
Three routes, each rivals for preferment, presented themselves ;
the Tehuantepec, in Mexico — the subject before us, the Tran-
sit in Nicaragua — and the Chagres Route, in New Granada.
The United States essayed to open them all. The Charter
alluded to in our chapter, proposes, in Section Eleventh thereof,
equal terms to all nations who shoald enter, of course, into the
same stipulations and guarantees as should be agreed upon by
the United States and Nicaragua. Still did we hesitate, owing
probably to the presence and intervention of Great Britain in
Central America.
During Spain's dominion on the Continents, she excluded
foreign powers from commercial intercourse with her colonies.
Between them and those of the British, contraband trade grew
up, wars ensued, and when peace was declared. Great Britain
possessed two settlements : the Belize or British Honduras, in
the department of Yucatan, and the Mosquito Coast in Nica-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S7H StCAAAQVA.
rmgua — their title to both, disputed by the Central Am^caii
Blates. The Agent of Great Britain annonnced to fiondnras
«nd Nicaragua the determination of England to sustain her
protectorate on the Mosquito Coast, (September 10, 1847,)
from Cape Honduras to, and including the lower part of ths
Rio San Juan. (Vide Ex. Doc. 75, p. 44, Vol X., 1st Seat.
81st Cong,)
Subsequentlj, on the 8th of February, 184B, two English
ships of war arrived at San Juan del Norte, or Greytown,
expelled the State officers of Nicaragua therefrom, and
four days afterward proceeding up the Rio San Juan, took
the fort at Serapaqui, after a determined resistance on the
part of Nicaragua, the latter haTing succumbed under pro-
test, on the 17th of March, 1848. In October, 1849, an
English man-of-war captured Tigre Island, belonging to
Nicaragua, off the Pacific coast, together with the Island of
Ruatan or Roatan, belonging to Honduras, commanding
an unexcelled position for protecting or molesting every
passage between the oceans. Capable of being admirably
fortified at a small expense, it invited the rapacity of her
English foe. Costa Rica, the late ally of Nicaragua, disputed
with the latter the boundary of the Rio San Juan, and claim-
ing the southern portion of Lake Nicaragua, seemed, in this
struggle, to favor Great Britain. Honduras and Nicaragua
implored the aid of the Uuited States.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE CLATTON AND BULWER TREATY MOOTED. 2*19
Under these circamstances, the Glayton and Balwer Treaty
was mooted between Lord Palmerston, Prime Minister of
Great Britain, and Mr. Rives, American Minister to France,
in an interview held in London, September 24th, 1850,
the latter, being en route to the French coart ; it was ratified
July 4th, 1850, bnt took effect from its date, April 9th,
1850. The interview alluded to we embrace here, as we
propose submitting the complete data, which has never been
fully understood by the country at large, and no doubt will
prove interesting.
Mr. Rives stated to Lord Palmerston that "the British
Consul in New York had publicly claimed for the Mosquito
Indians sovereignty and ownership of the mouth and lower
part of the Rio San Juan ; that the United States had now
become a party to the question in their own right by virtue
of the contract by which Nicaragua had granted to American
citizens, the right to construct an inter-oceanic Canal by the
way of the River San Juan and Lake Nicaragua ; that the
United States, on examination, were satisfied, as well on legal
as on geographical grounds, that the State of Nicaragua was
the Territorial Sovereign of the River and Lake, and that
they had already concluded, or were about concluding, a
Treaty with that State for securing a passage ; that the United
States, howerer, sought no exclusive privilege, and sincerely
wished to see the passage dedicated to the use of all nations.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S80 NICARAGUA.
on th« most liberal terms, and on a footing of perfect equality
for all ; that eren if thej conld, tbej would not obtain any
ezcloBlTe right or privilege, and so, on the other hand, thej
would not consent to see so important a communication fall
under the ezclusire control of anj other great commercial
power; that the Mosquito Coast at the mouth of the San
Juan could be considered in no other light than as British
Possession; and he proposed that Great Britain and the
United States should come to a frank understanding with
each other, and unite to carry the undertaking into effect, as
one of the highest importance to themselves and the rest of
the world."
Lord Palmerston replied, that " from an early period the
Mosquito Indians had been treated by the British Oovem-
ment as a separate and independent State ; had a king ; that
Nicaragua having never before been in possession of San
Juan, had taken possession of that town, and that England
had dispossessed her of it ; that the Nicaraguans had, in bad
faith, granted to American citizens a right to open the pro-
posed passage through a territory of which she was not in
possession; and that the English Government had therefore
given notice to those grantees of its (England's) intention
to regard the contract as a void one."
Moreover, he added, ** a suspicion seemed to be entertained
by some persons in the United States that the English Gov-
Digitized by.VjOOQlC
BIR. BIYES AND LORD PALMER8T0N. 281
ernment wished to plant a new colony on the San Joan ; that
there was not the slightest foundation for that saspicion, as
Great Britain had already more colonies than she could
manage ; that as to any idea of her holding ezclnsire posses-
sion of the mouth of the Bio San Juan as the key of the con-
templated inter-oceanic passage, nothing conld be further from
her mind ; and that^ if any plan could be suggested by which
Great Britain and the United States could unite in promoting,
by their joints influence and mutual co-operation the opening
of a great channel by the way of Lake Nicaragua, and de-
claring it a common highway for the use and beneflt of all
nations, it would receive the most favorable consideration of
Her Majesty's Government." (Sen. Doc. 27, p. 18.)
Mr. Rives reports to Mr. Clayton a conversation between
himself and Lord Palmerston thus : '' I concluded with saying
that it resulted from this long course of . universal usage and
conventional practice, that actual possession was in no wise
necessary to the exercise of a rightful sovereignty on Indian
territory ; and that, although Indian tribes were possessed of
some of the attributes of a separate political existence, such
as that of governing their communities by their own internal
laws, also of sustaining the relations of peace and war, yet
it was impossible to recognize in them a complete national
independence, such as that which was claimed for the Mos-
quitoes, without subverting the whole fabric of public law
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
282 NIOA&AGUA.
belonging to oar pecnliar position, which had grown np with
the general concurrence and assent of all the ciriliEed nations
of Europe."
To these remarks Lord Palmerston replied bj fiaying that
he ^'fullj admitted the generiU doctrine for which we con-
tended ; that it was the principle on which they conducted
all their relations with the Indian tribes in Canada ; but that
the case of the Mosquitoes was sui generis, and stood upon
its own peculiar circumstances." (Sen, Doc. 27, p. 22, Vol.
TIL 2d Sess. 32rf Cong.)
The Treaty recites the purpose of the patties, namely : the
consolidating of amicable relations, but expressing and fixing
their views and intents mutually in any inter-oceanic Canal
that may be constructed via the Rio San Juan and either
of Hakes Nicaragua or Managua, or both. The cardinal
points of said Treaty I annex.
Article 1. Neither party will ever obtain or maintain for
itself any exclusive control over the contemplated Canal.
Neither will ever erect or maintain any fortification cotn-
raandiiip: the same, or the vicinity thereof.
Neither will occupy, or fortify, or colonize, or assume, or
exercise any dominion over Nicaragua, Costa Rica, the Mos-
qniio Coast, or any part of Central America.
Neither will use any protection which either affords, or may
afford, to either alliance, which either has, or may have, to or
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CARDINAL POINTS OF THE TBEATT. 283
with any State or people^ for the purpose of erecting or main-
taining any sach fortifications, or of occupying or colonizing
Nicaragua, Costa Rica, the Mosquito Coast, or any part of
Central America, or of assuming or exercising any dominion
over the same.
Neither will take advantage of any intimacy, or use any
alliance, connection, or influence that either may possess with
any State or people, through whose territory the Canal may
pass, for the purpose of acquiring or holding, directly or in-
directly, for its own citizens or subjects, any unequal rights,
or advantages of commerce or navigation. Again, in
Article 4. The parties will use their influence with any
State or States, or Governments possessing or claiming juris-
diction or right over the territory through which the Canal
shall pass, to induce them to favor its construction, and to
use their good oflBces, whenever or however it may be most
expedient, to procure the establishment of two free ports, one
at each end of the Canal. In
Article 6. The parties engage to invite every State in
friendly intercourse with both or either of them, to enter into
stipulations similar to those contained in the Treaty, so that
q11 other States may share in the honor and advantages of
having contributed to the construction of the contemplated
Canal. And each of the contracting parties shall enter into
treaty-stipulations with such of the Central American States
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
884 NICARAGUA.
as they may deem advisable, for the parpose of carrying out the
objecl of the Treaty — namely, the construction and maintenance
of the Canal, as a Ship Canal betvreen the two Oceans, for
»
the benefit of mankind. In
Article 7. The parties determine to give their support and
encouragement to the persons or Company who shall first offer
to build the Canal with the necessary capital and the consent
of the local authorities, and to any such Company, already ex-
isting, as may have a contract which is justly unobjectionable
to the parties.
Article 8. The parties declare that, besides the particular
purpose of the Treaty before stated, they have the further and
broader object, to establish a general principle ; and so they
agree to extend their protection, by treaty-stipulations, to any
other practicable communications, whether by canal or rail-
way, across the Isthmus, and especially to those contemplated
to be made by the ways of Tehuantepec and Panama.
Such is the " Clayton and Bulwer Treaty," ample in design,
simple in construction, and generous in spirit. Yet there was
no necessity for it, for already on the 23d of September, 1849,
simultaneously with the sealing of the Charter of the Canal
Company, was a Treaty of Commerce and Friendship nego-
tiated with the Government of Nicaragua, and ratified unani-
mously by the Legislative Chambers. It was forwarded to
the United States, where it received the commendations of the
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
STIPULATIONS IN THE TREATY OF COMMERCE. 285
President (Gen. Taylor) and Cabinet, but owing to the pro-
tracted debate on the Slavery question, it did not receive im-
mediate attention.
I shall here add the second and third stipulations of the
Treaty of Commerce, which prove the utter waste of powder ia
the negotiation of the much-abused " Clayton and Bulwer."
Section 1st is purely commercial in its character.
Section 2. And inasmuch as a Contract was entered into
on the 27th day of August, 1849, between the Republic of
Nicaragua and a Company of Citizens of the United States,
styled " The American Atlantic and Pacific Ship-Canal Com-
pany," and in order to secure the construction and permanence
of the great work thereby contemplated, both high contracting
parties do severally and jointly agree to protect and defend
the above-named Company in the full and perfect enjoyment
of said work, from its inception to its completion, and after its
completion, from any acts of invasion, forfeiture, or violence
from whatever quarter the same may proceed ; and to give full
effect to the stipulations here made, and to secure for the
benefit of mankind the uninterrupted advantages of such com-
munication from sea to sea, the United States distinctly recog-
nizes the rights of sovereignty and property which the State
of Nicaragua possesses in and over the line of said Canal, and
for the same reason guaranties positively and efficaciously the
entire neutrality of the same, so long as it shall remain under
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
286 VllOAKAOVJL
the control of citizens of the United States, and so long as the
United States shall enjoy the privileges secured to them in
the preceding section of this Article.
Section 3. Bat if bj_ any contingency, the above-named
''American Atlantic and Pacific Ship-Canal Company'' shall
fail to comply with the terms of their-Contract with the State
of Nicaragua, all the rights and privileges which said Con<
tract confers, shall accme to any Company of Citizens of the
United States which shall, within one year after the official
declaration of failure, andertake to comply with its provisions,
BO far as the same may at that time be applicable, provided
the Company thns assuming said Contract shall first present
to the President and Secretary of State of the United States
satisfactory assurances of their intention and ability to comply
with the same ; of which satisfactory assurances, the signature
of the Secretary of State, and the seal of the Department shall
be complete evidence.
Section 4. And it is also agreed, on the part of the Re-
public of Nicaragua, that none of the rights, privileges, and
immunities guarantied, and by the preceding Articles, but
especially by the first section of this Article, conceded to the
United States and its citizens, shall accrue to any other nation,
or to its citizens, except such nation sliall first enter into the
same treaty-stipulations, for the defense and protection of the
proposed great inter-oceanic Canal, which have been entered
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE NICARAGUA TRANSIT. 28t
into by the United States, in terms the same with those em-
braced in Section Second of this Article.
It will be seen by a comparison, that the spirit, intent, and
conception even of both Treaties are similar. Why, therefore,
a new compact f Great Britain, by subscribing to Section
Fourth, shared all the adrantages to be enjoyed by the United
States. There was a non-desire at this early date to forego
her colonies, and her cherished hopes of " an hereafter'' in oar
midst, as I shJAll prove as we proceed.
Subsequent to the consummation of the last-named Treaties,
the Canal Company experiencing difficulties in properly
arranging the details of their proposed work, procured a
separation of the pririlege of exclusive steam-navigation in the
interior waters (which amounted to Lake Nicaragua solely),
firom the remainder of the original Charter, and secnred and
established the monopoly of Transit across from Oreytown to
San Juan del Sur. This is known as the "Nicaragua
Transit."
War having occurred in the interior, and there being two
distinct Oovemments, one at Leon, sustained by the Bishop
and General Mufioz, and the other at Granada, supported by
Gen. Chamorro, the question, if at all admissible, was not at
least debatable, " which of the two to choose f" as both
claimed precedence and authority. Joseph L. White, Esq.
Agent for the Canal Company, in a mode entirely aui generis,
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S88 MICARAOUA.
succeeded in negotiating the desired separation. The Leonese
GoTemment, howerer, entered its protest as follows :
** The ProTisonal Supreme Oovemment will see with satis-
faction the interests of the aforesaid Company arrayed in
harmony with those of this State when it shall have re-
corered its internal peace, and when its Government is
qualified to enter npon affairs of this kind ; bat any nego-
tiations concluded in the meantime are not aathorized by it»
nor will they be recognized as legal and subsisting. "
The President of the State, (Pineda) having been shortly
after this, gagged and blindfolded in Leon, by some of hifli
ardent admirers (in the very house too, subsequently occupied
by our Minister, Mr. Kerr of Maryland), and placed on a
mule and trotted off to Ghinandega, was subsequently per^
mitted to leave for Granada, via Realejo and San Juan
del Snr.
The Transit went into active operation, and the frequent
charges /ram, and discharges of imported Champagne, never
suffered either of the Governments to be sufficiently qualified
to enter into the equality or inequality of the Contract or
Charter, as subsequently amended. One fact, however, is
apparent. The Canal is not in existence, and the Transit has
been successful.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER XXVII.
miTAS BBTOKSB TBM TBAiniT COVPANT'S CHARTBB — WHAT mOABASUA CLAIMS
IV THB VATTBB — ^THB RIPLT THBBBTO — WHAT THB UVITBD 8TATI8 AVD
nCABAOUA AORIBD TO DO — WHAT RITAS DID AND THR RBMHDICB THHRB-
rOR— THR CABS AND TRIBARRI TRHATY— WHAT FRKBIDINT BUCHAVAH BATS
— WANTS AH ARMRD PORCH TO PROTBCT THB TRANSIT — WHAT THR POST-
XASTBR-GBlfCRAL BATS — IMPORTAKCR TO PORBION RBBIDBRTS OP KBBPIR0
THB ROUTH OPBN — VONSIBUB BBLLY HR60TIATBS POR A ROUTB — RBMARKB
OFTHBPRRRCH PRB8B THBRBOH— CHRISTOPHBR COLUMBUS, BAROK HUMBOLDT,
AMD LOUIS BAPOLBON OH IBTBR-OCRAiriC COMMUHICATIOBB— OTRRLAHD ROim
— «RH. CABS OB THR IBTBRVBHTIOH OP PORBIGB POWBRB — THB FOLICT OF
THB AMBRICAB OOBTINBHT.
Iif August^ 1852, the Accessory Transit Company made
its first inter-oceanic trip over the Nicaragoan ronte, and
continued in saccessfnl operation until February 18tb, 1856 ;
then it was suddenly closed, and the Orant and Charter of
the Company were arbitrarily revoked by the GoTemment of
Rivas. It will be remembered that at this period General
19 (289)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S90 NIOARAQUA.
Walker was Chief of the forces of the State. Prior to this, in
1854, serious disputes had arisen between Nicaragua and the
Company concerning the settlement of accounts, and even at
that date the interruption of the Transit was threatened. The
United States, desirous of harmonizing all the existing diffi-
culties, interposed in yain.
From the date of the discontinuance of the Transit, the
route has been closed, greatly to the prejudice of the
{Juited States. Nicaragua contends that the Charter is void,
inasmuch as the Company did not complete the necessary
surreys in the time specified in the Grant This is one of
the chief allegations. In reply, by referring to Section 3d of
aaid Charter, we find : ** The Grant is for the period of eighty-
fire years from the completion of the work; the preliminary
surveys to be commenced within twelve months.^ Surveys
were duly made by the Company. The time for the com-
pletion of the work, according to the section already referred
to, was " within twelve years, unless unforeseen eveuts, such as
earthquakes or wars, shall intervene to prevent it.** Hence,
upon this allegation, Nicaragua fails to sustain her action.
In the Treaty of Commerce and Friendship, negotiated on
the 28d of September, 1849, we shall perceive that Nicaragua
and the United States ''do severally and jointly agree to pro-
tect and defend the Company in the full and perfect enjoy-
ment of said work from its inception to its completion, from
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE CASS AHD XKXSAKBI TREATY. S9J
any acts of mvaaion, forfeiture, or Tiolenee, from whatever
quarter the same may proceed."
If the Rivas Oovernment was an unlawful one, since the
Company's Charter was forfeited by it, and the route sum-
marily closed, why has not the subsequent Government re*
instated the Company ? If damages have been sustained by
the latter, by reference to the eighth section of the original
Charter, we find: ''All disputes to be settled by referees or
commissioners, to be appointed in a specified manner." Until
Nicaragua shall hare adhered to her stipulations, the Company
have complaints to urge and jostice to demand ; and should
that State refuse to acknowledge the validity of its claims,
the United States, being a party to the Treaty of Commerce
and Friendship, should receive the petition of the claimants.
On the 16th day of November, 1857, a treaty was signed
by Secretary Cass and Sefior Trisarri, Minister of Nicaragua,
ucder the stipulations of which the use and protection of the
Transit Route would have been secured, not only to the
United States, but equally to all other nations. But by refer-
ence to all the Treaties and Charters herewith connected, the
neutrality of the route was stipulated for on terms of equality
to all other countries. This latter tn^ty contained a pro*
vision authorizing the United States to employ force to keep
the route open. In case Nicaragua should fail to perform her
duty iu this respect This was the principal objection, and
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
in NIOARAQUA«
this cUnea being inftlsted apoQ bj the United States, the
Treaty has, as yet, failed to receiye the ratification of the
Nicaraguan Go?ernment. President Buchanan, in his Mes-
sage of December 8th, 1858, in relation to Central America,
says:
" The political condition of the narrow Isthmus of Central
America, through which transit routes pass between the At-
lantic and Pacific Oceans, presents a subject of deep interest
to all commercial nations. It is over these Transits that a
large proportion of the trade and travel between the European
and Asiatic continents is destined to pass. To the United
States these routes are of incalculable importance, as a means
of communication between their Atlantic and Pacific posses-
sions. The latter now extends throughout seventeen degrees
of latitude on the Pacific coast, embracing the important
State of California, and the flourishing Territories of Oregon
and Washington.
''All commercial nations, therefore, have a deep and direct
interest that these communications shall be rendered secure
from interruption. If an arm of the sea, connecting the two
oceans, penetrated through Nicaragua and Costa Rica, it
could not be pretended that these States would have the right
to arrest or retard its navigation to the injury of other nations.
The Transit by land over this narrow Isthmus occupies nearly
the same position. It la a highway iu which they themselves
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WHAT PRESIDENT BUOHANAN SAYS. 293
have little interest when compared with the vast interests of
the rest, of the world.
" Whilst their rights of sovereignty oaght to be respected,
it is the duty of other nations to require that this important
passage shall not be interrupted by the ciril wars and revolu-
tionary outbreaks which have so frequently occurred in that
region. The stake is too important to be left to the mercies
of rival Companies, claiming to hold conflicting contractis with
Nicaragua. The commerce of other nations is not to stand
still and await the adjustment of such petty controversies.
The Government of the United States expects no more than
this, and it will not be satisfied with less. It would not^
if it could, derive any advantage from the Nicaragua transit
not common to the rest of the world.
"Its neutrality and protection for the common use of
all nations is her only object. She has no objection for
Nicaragua to demand and receive a fair compensation from
the companies and individuals who may traverse the route ;
but she insists that it shall never hereafter be closed by an
arbitrary decree of that Government If disputes arise be-
tween it and those with whom they may have entered into
contracts, these must be adjusted by some fair tribunal pro-
vided for the purpose, and the route must not be closed pend-
ing the controversy. This is our whole policy, and it cannot
fail to be acceptable to other nations.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S94 mOABAOVA.
** All these difBcnlties might be ayoided if, consisteDtij with
the good faith of Nicaragaa, the use of this Transit coald be
thrown opea to general competition, providing at the same
time for the payment of a reasonable rate to the Nicaraguau
Oorernment on passengers and freight"
And again: "A Treaty was signed on the 16th day of
November, 1867, by the Secretary of State and the Miaiater
of Nicaragaai under the stipulations of which the use and pr^
lection of the Transit loate would have been aeenred» not onlj
to the United States, bat eqaally to all other aiUious. How
and on what pretexts this Treaty has failed to receive the
ratification of the Nicaraguan Government, will appear by tho
papers herewith commanicated from the State Department
The principal objection seems to have been to the provision
anthorizing the United States to employ force to keep the
route open, in case Nicaragua should fiiil to perform her dutj
in this respect.
** From the feebleness of that Republic, its frequent ehangee
of government, and its constant internal dissensioos, this had
become a most important stipolatioa and one essentially necea»
sary, not only for the security of the route, but for the safety
of American citizens passing and repassing to and from our
Pacific possessions. Were such a stipulation embraced in a
Treaty between the United States and Nicaragua, the knowl-
edge of this fact would of itself, most probably, prevent hostile
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WANTS TO PROTECT THE TRANSIT BY AN ARMED FORCE. 295
parties fW)ra committing aggressions oa the route, and render
our actual interference for its protection unnecessary.
" The Executive Goyernment of this country, in its intercourse
with foreign nations, is limited to the employment of diplo-
macy alone. When this fails, it can proceed no further. It
cannot legitimately resort to force without the direct authority
of Congress, except in resisting and repelling hostile attacks.
It would have no authority to eater the territories of Nicar-
agua, even to prevent the destruction of the Transit, and pro-*
tect the lives and property of oar own citi2seus oa their passage.
It is true, that oa a saddea emergency of this character, the
President would direct any armed force in the vicinity to
inarch to their relief; bat io doing this he woold act apon his
own responsibility.
** Under these circamstances, I earnestly recommeod to Con«
gress the passage of an Act authorizing the President, under
such restrictions as they may deem proper, to employ the land
and naval forces of the United States in preventing the Transit
from being obstructed or closed by lawless violence, and in
protecting the lives and property of American citizens travel-
ing thereupon, requiring at the same time that these forces
shall be withdrawn the moment the danger shall have passed
away. Without such a provision, our citizens will be con*
stantly exposed to interruption in their progress, and to lawless
violence."
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S96 laoA&AOUA.
On the subject of ocean and foreign mail service, tbe Post-
master-Oeneral, among other things, says ** By the time the
contract for the California line, via Panama and Tebaantepec
expires, October Ist, 1859, it is probable that the ronte by
Lake Nicaragua will have been reopened and in snccessful
operation. This presents the question whether one, two, or
three of these routes shall thereafter be employed for mail pur-
poses. The Tehuantepec route is the shortest and most readily
protected against interruptions, but it will be comparatiyely
too new, and the line of stages too long, to furnish with cer-
tainty adequate and satisfactory communication between our
Atlantic and Pacific possessions.
''While it is destined, no doubt, to become a Transit of the
first importance, and will deserre the highest patronage and
encouragement, still it cannot supersede the necessity of one
or more routes through Central America. It is of the highest
importance that the route by Nicaragua should be reopened,
and its undisturbed use for the transportation of the mails,
passengers, troops and munitions of war secured by the solemn
guarantee of a public Treaty. Without this, in yiew of the
unstable condition of the local Governments of Central
America, tbe safety and security of transportation can hardly
be relied on."
We need not expatiate upon the tenets embraced in the
President's Message. The importance of the demands therein
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
IMPORTANCE OF KEEPING THE TRANSIT OPEN. 297
contaiDed speak for themselves. If, as has been fullj tested
already, Nicaragua is incapable of protecting the Transit
Route, and thereby preventing it from being at any time sum-
marily closed, it is proper that tlie United States should, in com-
mon with all other nations, see that its neutrality be preserved.
At Leon, Granada, Managua, Masaya, and Rivas in the in-
terior of the State, many Americans, as also other foreigners,
have located ; at Realejo and San Juan del Sur on the Pacific,
at Virgin Bay on the Lake, and at San Juan del Norte or
Greytown on the Atlantic side, numbers of our citizens have
embarked their fortunes in mercantile pursuits. As merchants,
trading to and from the United States and Europe, they must
be deeply and vitally interested in the opening of the Transit.
Why should they be compelled to suffer damage, and eyen
utter bankruptcy, if Nicaragua possesses the power to keep
the route open ? Claims for losses through the neglect of
Nicaragua might be sustained, if the State admits her
efficiency, yet fails to interpose her strong ,arm. The truth
18, she is weak, her Governments are spasmodic, meteoric, and
Mr. Buchanan has but demanded that, which will find an echo
in the heart of every American that throbs on Nicaraguan
soil.
At a later period, Monsieur Belly, from France, negotiated
a Charter for a canal through Nicaragua, which has been the
eaose of much controversy in this country and Europe. If
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S98 NICARAGUA.
the Charter granted to the American Atlantic and Pacifie
Ship Canal Company is in force, then M. Belly and his asso-
ciates mast saryey a new roate altogether.
The Paris Press publishes the full correspondence which
took place between the United States Minister to Nicaragua^
and the Foreign Minister of Nicaragaa, touching M. Belly's
Conventions. The former says that no arrangement with
M. Belly shall be recogniaed or assented to in any thing coo^
trary to the just rights acquired by American citizens, and
that a liberal policy, resulting from the Transit Treaty of
November last, shall be constantly maintained.
The Nicaraguau Minister replies that his Government
wishes only for justice and its rights, and desires to maintain
friendly relations with the United States ; but declares that the
Transit Treaties are of no value, because the route was not
opened at the stipulated period. M. Belly had appealed to
the Clayton-Bulwer Treaty for protection, and Lord Malmes-
bury's letter to him says that the stipulations thereof will, in
his own opinion, apply to his scheme, if carried out.
The Courier de Paris gives an account of M. Belly's plan
for opening a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific
Oceans, by means of a canal through the Isthmus of Panama*
This project is one which Englishmen often read of in New
York papers, where it is seldom mentioned without angry
depreciation, although few,^ perhaps, qould state its feaUuret
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE CX)URIER D£ PARIS AND M. BELLT'S PROJECT. 299
ofif-hand. M. Belly, who some short time back obtained a coq-
cessioD of the ground required for the undertaking, has lately
published a pamphlet in which he sets forth the advantages
of the enterprise, and shows by maps the line of country
through which the proposed canal is to pass. The Courier
de Paris, in remarking on the project, adds some explanations
which are of interest. It says :
''The first name which we meet with in examining th«
history of the project is that of Baron de Humboldt, who^
after having examined in Central America the positions best
adapted for the junction of the two coasts, gave the preference
to the basin of Nicaragua. His ' Historical Essay on New
Spain/ in which his opinion was expressed, was published
in 1804.
" After that of the patriarch of modem science, we find th«
name of the prince who was destined to be Emperor of th«
French. Prince Louis Napoleon, daring his stay at Ham,
occupied himself with the grand idea of cutting through
Isthmusses, and more particularly that of Panama. Like
M. de Humboldt, he saw that Nature had taken care to
indicate to the industry of man the line of communication to
be establislied between the two seas, by the depression of the
chain of the Cordilleras, and by the existence of lakes and of
the river of San Juan de Nicaragua.
« A small work on tha autyec^ by the PrincQi was junat^d at
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
800 ' NICARAGUA.
London, in 1846, bat only a very few copies of it were strack
oft It was, boweyer, repablished in 1849 by the Beyae
Britanniqae. It is reprodaced by M. Belly in the volame,
' Percement de I'Isthme de Panama,' which he has just pub-
lished, and which, in addition to an acconnt of the project^
contains all the docnments relative to the great qaestion.
** The project of M. Belly only differs from that of the Prince
in not making nse of the whole of the Nicaragua, and in
crossing the Lake in its narrowest part His plan necessitates
a catting in the ridge which separates the Lake from the sea.
Bat the line woald thus be almost straight, and the distance
woald be considerably shortened, as it would be seventy
leagues at the outside, whilst in the plan of the Prince, it is
one hundred and twenty. Such is then the result. By a
passage of seventy leagues, vessels going from Europe, or
from New York, to California, or to the seas of China and
Japan, would be saved all the circumnavigation of South
America.
"Let us add that the canal, of a depth of eight metres,
(twenty-six feet), at a minimum, would admit the largest
vessels, and that the total expense is estimated at one hun-
dred and twenty million francs, whilst the annual revenues,
according to the estimates of the authors of the preliminary
project, would not be less than fifty million francs. And if
we consider that the territory passed through is admirably
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
POLITICAL BASIS OF M. BXLLT'S PROJECT. 801
fertile, and that M. Belly, in addition to the privilege of the
caual, has obtained a concession of the complete proprietor-
ship of the lauds on both banks, to the width of fonr kilo-
metres, (two-aud-a-half miles,) we shall see the fall mercan-
tile ?a1ne of an enterprise which is really of the very greatest
Talue."
It then adverts to the political bearing of the proposed
plan, and shows that the intention is to place the canal of
Nicaragua under the general protection of the great powers,
England and the United States setting the example.
" As to the political basis of the enterprise, they are those
which are laid down in the Clayton-Balwer Treaty. This
Treaty, which was signed in 1850, binds England and the
United Stales with regard to the inter-oceanic communication.
According to it the two powers rontually undertake to employ
all their efforts for the opening of a canal between the Atlantic
and Pacific Oceans, by way of the River San Juan and the
Lake of Nicaragua, to protect the Company which may be
formed for the construction and navigation of the said canal,
ftnd to guarantee the neutrality of it
" They oblige themselves, besides, to form no establishment
calculated to menace the independence of the States of Central
America, and to oppose any external attempt calculated to
encroach on that independence, and they renounce in advance
all advantages which may be accorded to their subjects to the
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SOS NIQABAQUA.
prqjadioe of those of other States. Lastly, the Treaty says
that other powers shall be called on to sign it, \u order to
cover with a common protection an enterorise deutined to be
for the interest of all.
** Such is the spirit of the treaty which gave rise to the Con-
vention of Rivas. This Convention, which was signed on
the 1st of May, 1848, between the Presidents of Costa Rica
and Nicaragua and M. Belly, confers on the latter the privi-
lege of constmcting and navigating the canal ; it consequently
only accomplishes what the two Governments which signed
the Clayton-Bulwer Treaty wished for.
"In realising the enterprise dreamed of by Christopher
Columbus, indicated by M. de Humboldt, and traced out by
Prince Louis Napoleon, the Convention of Rivas completes
the system of oceanic circulation, prepares the international
fusion of races, and makes the liberty of the seas a reality.
The cutting through the Isthmus of Panama, like that of the
Isthmus of Suez, is neither French, nt)r English, nor American,
and does not constitute either privilege or pre[>ondentnce for
any nation. France, in both undertakings, desires no other
advantage than the honor of being able to say that two of her
children have originated these great works."
There is little to be apprehended from this array of new
influence on the Isthmus. That a canal is practicable from the
mouth of the Rio San Juan to Lake Nicaragua, I do not
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WHAT THE ENGLISH AND fBENOH JOURNALS SAT. 803
beHere, mve »t an enormoiis expense. A railway conld he as
easily constructed along the banks of the river. Once trade
and travel sought the water — canals were dividend-paying
enterprises. Now, the route for the traveler and for goods
of value is overland. A Canal Company will fail here— they
will reap losses, and their employees will die in the morasses
after two months' exposure in this wild luxuriance of decay-
ing and decayed vegetation.
The English and French journals frequently enlighten their
readers upon the designs of the American Government ia
respect to Central America. In their view, the Government
of the United States is seeking exclusive possession of the
routes across the Isthmus, both for commercial and political
ends. We are warned against our ambitions projects, and are
told that England and France will not allow their eommeroe
to be shut out from a free pass across the American continent.
We hope that the President's explicit declaration in hit
recent Message, that the United States ** would not, if they
could, derive any advantage from the Nicaraguan route not
common to the rest of the world," will be sufficient to satisfy
these European journals of their error. General Cass* letter
to Mr. Lamar, upon the same point, says : ** The United States
do not seek either the control, or the exclusive use of these
routes ; they desire that the advantages should he equally
common to all nations."
It is very plain 'rom rhpse declwrations, thiit thi* U<rMt'«.|
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
804 NIOABAGUA.
States are seeking no exdnsive advantages^ in the settlement
of the Central American question, but that the parpose is to
open the routes across the Isthmas to the commerce and travel
of all nations. While making these declarations regarding the
intentions of the United States, General Cass is equally
explicit in respect to the intervention of European powers, in
any other way than by joining to secure the freedom of these
routes, and to " make them neutral highways of the world, not
to be disturbed by the operations of war." Dwelling upon this
subject, he says :
*' But the establishment of a political protectorate by any
one of the powers of Europe, over any of the Independent
States of this continent, or, in other words, the introduction of
a scheme of policy which would carry with it a right to interfere
in their concerns, is a measure to which the United States have
long since avowed their opposition, and which, should the
attempt be made, they will resist by all the means in their
power.
" The reasons for the attitude they have assumed have been
promulgated, and are everywhere well known. There is no
need, upon this occasion, to recapitulate them. They are
founded on the political circumstances of the American con-
tinent, which has interests of its own, and ought to have a
policy of its own, disconnected from many of the questions
which are continually presenting themselves in Europe con-
cerning the balance of power, and other subjects of controversy
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
MUOT OF THB WESTERN HEMISPHERE. 305
arising oat of the condition of its States, and which often find
their solution or their postponement in war.
" It is of paramount importance to the States of this hemi-
sphere, that they should have no entangling union with the
powers of the Old World, a connection which would almost
necessarily make them parties to wars having no interest for
them^ and which would often involve them in hostilities with
the other American States, contiguous or remote. The years
which have passed by since this principle of separation was
first announced by the United States, have served still more to
satisfy the people of this country of its wisdom, and to forti^
their resolution to maintain it, happen what may.^
This is language not easily misunderstood, and language that
the people of the United States will endorse by their action,
If circumstances should require it. They want no exclusive
privileges themselves, nor will they permit any other nation
to have any. They claim for their citizens no exclusive right
to form contracts fot opening Trannt Routes id Nicaragua. M.
Belly or any one else may make such contracts with the Central
American Powers. But no contract with him, or any one
else, can interfere with previously-existing engagements with
American citizens, and the regulations and conditions of th^d
Orant shall be such as to render the routes safe and free to
all nations, but controlled bv none and upon moderate and
reasonable terms.
20
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER XXVIII.
A 9A8H AT POLITIOAL HISTOBT— EZnilT AHS POPULATIOH OF GnATKirALA—
HOW IT WAB «OTBKirKI> UVDKB BPAIN^-BBR LIBBBALITT ABD ITS ABUSB BT
TBB MOTHBB OOUNTRT — DISCONTBNT AND IVSURRBCTIONS — INDBPBNBBBCB
BBCLABBD— OAIBZA CH08BN PRB8IDBKT — A GENBRAL CONGRBSS CALLED—
CONSTITUTION — 8UBDITI8I0B INTO STATES — POPULATION AND CAPITALS —
BOUNDABIES or THE UNITED PROVINCES — TBB LEGISLATIYB POWEB — STATE
BEGULATIONS — NATIONAL FLAG AND ITS DEVICES — THE DREAM OF THB
OASTILIAN.
Ths kingdom of Oaatemala was goyerned bj a Captaio-
Oeneral, appointed by the mother, Spain, and a Royal Andi-
encia, with powers to take cognizance over an extent of
country estimated at twenty-six thousand one handred and fifty-
two sqaare leagnes, and extending from 8° to 17° North
latitude, and from 82° to 95° West longitude, with a popula-
tion of about one million two hundred thousand. It was sub-
divided into fifteen provinces; five on the margin of the
(306)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
GUATBKALA UNDER SPANISH BULB. 307
Atlantic, fiye on the Pacific, and five in the interior, each
governed by inferior officers subject to the Royal Audiencia.
An Archbishop and three suffragans had charge of spiritual
affairs. The ecclesiastical division of the kingdom was com-
posed of four bishoprics, comprising two hundred and twenty
curacies, seven hundred and fifty-nine parochial churches, and
four establishments for the conversion of infidels. Fully im-
pressed with the prowess and greatness of Spain, and believing
her to be the mistress of Europe, the military force within her
limits was indeed meagre, not more than fifty soldiers being
required for the security of her domain.
The present century undeceived them relative to the actual
powers of the mother country, and a new era pregnant with
important events succeeded the dark years of submission.
Remote as Spain was, and tyrannical as was her colonial sys-
tem, its adi^inistration here was comparatively mild, and her
stem, harsh edicts were easily evaded. Patents of nobility
were purchased by some of the wealthier families, and through
flatteries they won upon theYiceroys, whom they in turn ruled
ad libitum.
About 1803 and '4 the public purse of Spain was so far
depleted that a voluntary subscription was required from her
colonies. Guatemala generously furnished her quota, and yet,'
instead of receiving any favor from the mother country, unjust
and excessive taxations followed as the recompense for her
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
808 mcAHMsvA.
known liberality. Her literary and scientific societies were in-
censed and suspended by these glaring and re{>eated acts of
despotism and ingratitude, and during the years of 1812, '13,
and '14, fererish symptoms manifested themselyes in many of
the provinces.
In 1815 an insnrrectfon oecnired in Leon (Nicaragna), but il.
was sappressed, and the leaders of the rer^t were sent to Spain..
From that time to 1819, discontent displayed itself, secTet
meetings were held, and the masses seemed swayed by a vast
and almost nncontrolkble inpvlse* The4Bplrit of independence
which had so long been smouldering, flamed in more Uian one
quarter of the new world, and the fate of Mexico was decided
in 1821. News of this reached Guatemala^ End only ittcrea«ed
the universal fermentation.
At this juncture Oaviao Oainasa «rriTed, appointed by iim
Cortes of Spain, bearing intelligence of the late political
changes in the peninsula, and the establishment of the Con-
stitution. Meetings were organised, the leading families, and
the influential members of the Church assembled, and on the
15th of September, 1822, the Independence of Guatemala waa
publicly proclaimed. A proclamation was issued, and it was
resolved to call a General Congress for the 1st of March, 1822.
In the interim a provisional Government was formed, consist-
ing of a Council composed of individuals selected from the
different provinces, of which GUinza was chosen Pre&idenU
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
WHAT WAS DONB BY THE QBNEEAL OONQEESS. 30^
Bbwcrer, the nnion of this Congress was prevented by subse-
qnent events. Itarbide ascended the Mexican throne shortly
after, and strifes occurring between San Salvador and Guate-
mala, absolute Governments were formed, thus abrogating all
ideas of the Union anticipated on Sep. 15, 1821.
A proclamation was issaed on the 2^h of March, 1823, re>
convoking the General Congress, and on the following 24th of
June, the Constituent Assembly, as it was termed, met. With
the exception of Chiapa, which was firm in its adherence to
Mexico — and Nicaragua, which was distracted by internal revo-
lutions, each State sent deputies to this Congress, though San
Salvador, having dispatched troops to aid Nicaragua, her
deputies were not so soon seated. After the nomination of an
executive, one of its first acts was, "the declaring of these»
provinces independent of Spain, Mexico, and every other
power, either of the old or new world." This is dated July
1, 1823.
The basis of its future Constitution, now that the Congress
was fully organized, was published Dec. 17th, and Guatemala
was declared a Federal Republic, comprising five States con-
federated, under the title of the " United Provinces of Central
America, viz., Guatemala, consisting of thirteen Departments,
the Capital of which was Guatemala. These Departments
comprised one hundred and fourteen towns and villages, with
a population of about seven hundred thousand. San Salvador,
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
810 NIOARAGUA.
embracing foar Departmeuts, Capital, San Salvador, and com*
prising fifty-five towns and villages, and a population of about
three hundred and fifty thousand. Honduras, consisting of
twelve Departments, Capital, Comayagua, fifty-seven towns
and villages, with a population of about two hundred thou-
sand. Nicaragua, consisting of eight Departments, Capital,
Leon, comprising fifty-three towns and villages, with a popu-
lation of about two hundred thousand. Costa Rica, consist-
ing of eight Departments, Capital, San Jos6, comprising twenty-
one towns and villages, with a population computed at fifty
thousand.
These States contain about twenty-two thousand square
leagues, bounded on the north by the Atlantic, south and
southwest by the Pacific, southeast by Yeragnas, and west
and northeast by Mexico, comprising about one million five
hundred thousand inhabitants, and were to be governed on
the principles of Federal Republicanism. The Legislative
power was ordained to reside — first, in a Federal Congress,
and second, in a Senate, composed of two Senators popularly
elected by each State. The Executive power was vested —
first, in a President popularly chosen, second, in a Vice-
President, third, in a Supreme Court of Justice. The in-
ternal affairs of each State to be regulated independently
upon the following basis : first, by an Assembly of Deputies ;
second, by a Council; third, by a Chief; all to be popularly
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE DREAM OF THE CASTIUAN. 311
elected; fourth, by a Vice-Chief; fifth, by a Supreme Court
of Judicature.
Wars and revolutions succeeded, and the Constitutions of
the diflferent States were decreed as follows : That of Guate-
mala, October 11th, 1825; San Salvador's, June 12th, 1824;
Honduras', December 11th, 1825; Nicaragua's, April 8th,
1826; Costa Rica's, November 22d, 1824. In 1824, the
Republic was decreed under the name of ** The Republic of
Central America," with a national flag, having for its armorial
devices five volcanoes, and bearing the motto, "Dios, Union,
Libertad," — God, Union, Liberty.
We close our brief sketch, and as elsewhere we have given
the various changes which occurred, we shall now direct at-
tention to the proposed Ship Canal, and present distinctly in
outline the progress from the Conquest, with the search after
the Secret of the Strait, the grand desideratum of the Castilian,
which he supposed would indeed open to the Crown the gates
of a Paradise, little less in value than those to be reached by
years of contrition, penitence, and prayer.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER. XXIX,
!■■ TALI OF AJTABUAO — OBIGIIT OF THE VEXIOAHS — KHIGBATIOll TO TUCATAH.
AKD eVATBMALA — TBI CABAB GBANDE8 — TBB SIX TRIBB8 ABB DBSBRTIOB
•B TBB BITE — TOWB BOBTOHBB ABB VIBFOBTBBBB — ^TOUBB TBB CITT OF
XBSICO— BACBIFICB A CBIBF'S DAUGHTBB — BLBGT A KING — BOMB l^rHpY^^.
VBBT8 COBMBBCBD — MOHTBZUMA TBB BLDBR SDCCES8FULLT WA6B8 VABIOUI
WABB — BONTBZUBA TBB TOUBGBB — COXIHG OF TAB SPANIARDS-^GUATB-
XOSIB ABB BIS FATB— COBTB8 BBTUBHB TO BPAIBt-BIBB OF A BBOi^BK,
BBABT — WBAT WAS DOHB WITB BIS RBBAINS — BIS TITLE AND ESTATES —
TBB BLOOD 'of TBE MOICTEZUMAS IB TBB TEIBS OF CASTILIAB ROBILITT—
▲SBASSIBATIOB OF PIZARBO — ^BIB TITLE, ESTATES, AND DBSC^HDABTB^WflA*
WAS DONE WITB BIS RBBAIHS — ONB OF BIS FIBGERS IB BALTIBORE — TBB
BOLT CROSS AND ITS IRRESISTIBLE ARGUMENTS — MONTEZUMA TO RETURN AS A
DBITT — EL PARAISO DB MABOMA AND BEFLECTI0N8.
Feom the Yale of Anabaac, or of Waters, embracing a bean-
tiful district, the whole conn try, called subsequently, by the
Spaniards New Spain, received the name of Anahuac. It
has since been given to the dominions of Spain in North
America, occupying the entire extent of the northern bounda-
(312)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
ORIGIN 09 THS MEXICANS. 318
I to the kiBgdom of Oaajteffiala, and often embracing thai
territory also.
The origin ot the Mexicana^ or the nations of Anahnae, is
Teiy obscnre ; bnt aecording to Glavigero, the Tottecas, who
inhabited the country north of Mextco, left their homes, or
wert bajiished, and joaraeyed sooth in search of a proper
kHiaiity whereon to fix their habitation. For the space of
one bandred and four yeani they wandered^ till at length
])Mi«;hing the Yale of Anahaac, they erected a city fifty miles
east of the city of Mexico. At Tola they fonnded the capital
of a dynasty which lasted three hnndred and ei^jchty-four
years. They appear to bare been well skilled in arts, indas«
trions, civilized, and living under the government of kings in
a peaceable manner.
In the year 1052, a dearth and pestilence nearly desolated
the country, and a great number of their people having died
of fomine, many of those who survived emigrated to Yucatan
and Guatemala, leaving bnt a remnant of this once flourishing
empire in Tula and Cholnla. For one hundred years the
Toltecan country was nearly deserted. After this interval
from the North came another race — the Cachemecas — whqse
manners were less refined. The source whence they emigrated
they called Amaquemecan. They settled about six miles from
the present city of Mexico, and were governed also by kings,
who encoaraged them to cultivate the friendship of these poor
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
8U NIGABAOUA.
Toltecans who sarvived, and who gratefully taagtit them in re-
turn many of the arts.
This monarchy lasted till 1520, nearly five centuries. Other
tribes, of which the Otomies and the Acolhuans were the chief,
entered into alliance with the Cachemecas. Eight years after-
ward came the Tarascas and the Nahuatlacas. The Aztecas,
or Mexicans were the last ; they came from a country beyond
the Gulf of California, in the year 1160, when they moved
southward, and traces of the buildings they left are said to exist
on the banks of the Rio Colorado, and the Rio Gila. They
came from a country called Azatlan. They stopped for a time
at some point in New Biscay, about 250 miles North North-
west from Chihuahua, and there built the Casas Grandes, in
29° North latitude.
This large edifice is constructed with three floors, and is
crowned by a terrace ; the lower floor has no door, and the
upper is accessible only by a ladder, which is still the style in
which the buildings of New Mexico are constructed. This
House or Fort has been surrounded by a wall, Humboldt says,
seven feet thick, and in which enormous stones were used ; the
beams of pine are said still to exist. In the centre is a keep or
mound — the whole has a ditch about it, and earthen pots and
jars, with mirrors of the Iztii stone have been dug up in the
vicinity.
Whu/i the Aztecs left their native laud, they consisted of six
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F0BTT7NES AND MISFORTUNES OF THE FIVE TRIBES. 315
tribes, namely, the Mexicans, Tepanecas, Chalcese, Tlahnicas,
Tlascans, and Xochimilcans. They fashioned the image of
the Deity Huitzilopochtli, at Galiacan, on a throne, to carry
on the shoulders of fonr priests. The five tribes deserted them
on quitting Culiacan, and journeying with the Deity, arrived at
Tula, the Capital of which the Toltecans had built, erecting
altars at all their resting-places on the road.
Here, and in the neighborhood, they remained for twenty
years. In 1216, they came to Zumpanco, a large town in the
Vale of Anahuac, where they were kindly received, and the
son of the Chief, Ilhuicatl, married one of their women, from
which alliance descended the race of Mexican Emperors. They
wandered about the Lake of Tezcuco, settling in dififerent
places, and at last entered into wars with the Cachemicas and
Acolhuans, and were obliged to fly to some islands called Aco-
colo, in the Southern part of the Mexican lakes. Here they
remained for fifty-two years, in great poverty and distress, being
enslaved by the chief of a petty state called Colnachan. It is
believed by Clavigero and Humboldt, that the Toltecs, Acol-
huans, Chichimecas, and Nahuatlacs, spoke the same language,
and probably emigrated from the same degree of North latitude.
A few years subsequently, a war ensued between the Xoch-
imilcans and the Cholhnans, in which the Mexicans assisted
their masters, and battled so bravely as to win their freedouL
The latter, however, treated their captives so brutally, in-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
tli ncAEAoruA.
booMiily catting off tbefar wn, and effering bnniaB Bscrifiees
to their Deity, that the Chief of the ChoYhoMis commandecl
them to quit bis territorj. Thej moTed to a spot near the
JQiiction of Lakes Chaico and TeicocQ, which piace they named
MezicalUinco, and thence they went to Iztaeolo, nearer the
location of the present City of Mexico.
Here they remained some two years^ when, wandering about,
they discovered on an island in the Lake, an omen foretold by
their oracles to be their fatnre home. They built some miser**
able reed huts, and ha?ing taken captive a Cholhuan, sacrificed
him to their Deity, erected an attar, and prepared to fix their
permanent abode here. To this Island and Town they gaye
the name of Tenochtillan, and subsequently building their huts
round the altar of Mexitli, their God of war, they called the
town Mexico, or the City of Mexitli. This took place in 1325.
The omen referred to, was, finding on a rock in the Lake,
the " Eagle on the Prickly Pear." Here they dwelt long in a
wretched manner ; the situation being chosen merely from the
omen, was uncomfortable, and also small, and finally they wei*e
necessitated to drive stakes, and to make dykes to the adjacent
islets, by which means they shut out the water, and connected
the islets so as to gain considerable space for building. They
then furnished themselves with necessaries, constructed floating
gardens on the lake, with mud and branches, and thus struggled
on through a press of privations for thirteen years, when an
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHANGE IN THUB VOBM OF GOVERNMENT. 4^11
old quarrel having been resumed, they divided iuto two cliques ;
one party remained, while the other Bought a neighboring
island, called by them Tlatelolco, afterward joined to the
others by mounds.
The original Mexico was now divided iato four quarters,
and in the centre was the temple of Mexitii or Huitzilopochtli.
They remained in barbarism for some time, and aacrificed a
daughter of the Chief of Colhuacan, whom, under a speciois
pretext, they had invited into their city. The outraged father
waged war against them, but they were equally powerful with
himself; their Government had been hitherto an aristocracy,
the nation obeying a council of their Great Chieftain. They
found now, that a Monarchy was best adapted to their views^
first, because tbeir neighbors bad adopted that form of Govern^
tnent, and second, because their territories consisting only of
the City, one person was better able to perform the duties of
the kingly office than several. Acamapitsni was therefore
•elected their King and leader. This Prince married a
daughter of Acolmiztli, King of Coatlican.
The Tlatelolcos also chose a king, the son of the King of
the Tepanecans, who oppressed them much for fifty years,
thirty-seven of which Acamapitzni governed Mexico. He
took another wife, and had by her a son, Hiutzillhiutl, and
by his concubines several children, of whom Izcoatl was the
most renowned. la this reign, buildings of stone were
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
818 NIOA&AaUA.
erected, and canals for nse, and for the adorning of the city,
were commenced. He died in 1389, having swayed his
sceptre with great success. Foar months afterward his son
Hintzilihintl succeeded him by the universal choice of the
people. He had two wives, one, the daughter of the King
of the Tepanecas, the other also a princess. By them he
had two sons^ the latter bearing him the famons Montezuma
Ilhuicamina. After a reign of twenty years, he died in 1409,
and was succeeded by his brother Chimalpopoca, who having
been thrown into prison by the king of Acolhnacan, committed
suicide.
Itzcoatl was the son of Acamapitzni by a slave. Thence
ensued wars between the neighboring rival kings, especially
the Tlatelolcans, who were fully equal to the Aztecs. Their
first king died in 1339. Itzpoatl, on his accession to the
throne, built temples, made many public improvements, sub-
dued neighboring provinces, and concluded an allionee with
the exiled prince of Acolhuacan, whose father had been
killed, and he the son supplanted by an alien. This Prince
declared war against the usurper, and took several cities.
Itzcoatl sent Montezuma to congratulate him. He was taken
prisoner, but by treachery escaped to Mexico, when Maxtlaton,
the usurper of the Acolhuacan throne, declared war against
Mexico on account of the Aztecs allying themselves with the
exiled Prince Nezahualcajotl. The Aztecs were terrified, and
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
MONTEZUBlIA TH2' ELDEB. 319
demanded of their king to make peace, bat Montezama urged
their commencing hostilities.
Wai followed r victory sat donbtfal on either banner for an
entire day : but as night approached, Montezama, with other
chiefs, rushing to the front, captured, with his own hand, the
general of the enemy, and completely discomfited them.
Next day the battle was renewed, when the Tepanecans were
defeated, and their city taken. Subsequently the entire nation
was subdued, and became subject to Itzcoatl, who replaced
Nerahualcajotl upon the throne. The Tcpanecan country he
gave to Totoqnihuatzin, with the title of King of Tacuba;
these kings formed an alliance oflfensive and defensive.
The Xochimilcans, fearing the power of the Aztecs, declared
war against them, but their strongholds and cities were taken
by Montezuma, and from a petty group of island huts,
Mexico, through the address and courage of this Prince
became the most powerful of all the adjacent States.
In 1436, at an advanced age, Itzcoatl died, and Montezuma
succeeded to the throne. He erected an immense temple,
obtaining the victims to be sacrificed at his coronation from a
war then waging between the Chaleese and Tezcucans, in
which the former were defeated. This coronation was the
most magnificent ever witnessed.
Probably next to the Aztecs, the most valiant tribe were
the Tezcucans. Although their province was small, it was
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
MO HIOARACrUA.
defended by natiiral fortifications, high rbcky ridges, and
deep gorges, upon whose sides bristled loose boalders, and
altlioagh in a measnre subservient to Mexico, the Tezcacans
ever evinced their lore for their province, and their ability to
defend it. Bernal Diaz gives a full and glowing account of
the hardy TezcocaR nouiitaiiieeM^ and lli« old soldier pays
them merited tribate&
The King of Tlatelolco having formed a conspiracy against
Itzcoatl, and having renewed his designs upon Montezuma,
the latter deposed him and placed Moquihuix on the throne.
Many provinces were wrested from their chiefs to adorn the
coronet of Montezuma. He then engaged in war with the
King of the Miztacas» the Huexotzincas, and the Tlascalanfi,
and suffered a reverse, thoogh he finally defeated thenk
He conqnered also the Cholulans^ Uie Chalcese^ and oth«^
tribes, until his empire stretched from the Gnlf of Mextco
nearly to the Pacific. In 1446, Mexico, having suffered from
an inundation, he constructed a dyke nine miles long, to pre-
vent any future calamity arising from the same CMlse.
Montezuma died in 1468, and was succeeded by Axaycatk
It was under the reign of this Prince that the Provinces of the
Tlatelolcos were added to those of Mexico, and their king's heart
(Moquihuix) was torn out by Axaycatl. He also waged sue*-
ccssful wars against the Matlatzincas, and died ix 1477. His
brother Tizoc ascended the throne. He was succeeded by hi6
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
MONTEZUMA THE TOUNQEB. 321
Bon Cacamatzin, who was afterward captured by the Spaniards.
Then came Ahaitzotl, his brother, who completed the Great
Temple commenced by Tizoc. The human sacrifices he offered
at its dedication, it is said, amounted to seventy thousand.
This took place in 1486 and 148t, when Mexico was violently
shaken by an earthquake. This monarch was a warrior from
his birth. His conquests extended to Guatemala, a distance
of nine hundred miles from his Capital. The Aztecs, how-
ever, were defeated in 1476 by the Atlexcans, under their
Chief, Huexotzincas.
Ahuitzotl died in 1502. Then succeeded Montezuma the
Second, called Montezuma Xocotzin, or the Younger, who
was a Priest, and a Prince of extreme bravery. His corona-
ation was more magnificent than any of his predecessors, while
his household retinue was composed solely of people of rank,
whom he favored particularly, at the expense of the other
classes. His style of living was most sumptuous, and extrava-
gance marked his every measure ; he was bigoted — a patron
of the arts, generous, and swayed his sceptre with dignity,
though his disposition was extremely haughty and tyrannical
At this period, when Montezuma's kingdom had risen to
unusual splendor, the Spaniards having settled in Cuba and
Hispaniola, determined to explore the Continent to the West,
and Yasco Nufiez de Balboa, having landed on the Coast,
descried the Pacific from the summit of the mountains. This
21
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S8S KIOA&AGUA.
waa la 1618. The empire of the Aztecs at thii time extended
five hnndred leagues from East to West, and two hundred from
North to South. Montezuma died, and was succeeded by his
brother Quetlaoaca or CniUahuitzin, in 1520, who ga?e en-
dence of proving a good king. He prepared to receive the
Spaniards in his Capital, but in the same year, during the prep-
arations for the continuance of the war which had been so
vigorously carried on by his brother, he died of the small-pox,
and his nephew Guatimozin occupied the throne.
The characters of Montezuma and Guatimozin are so well
ksown, that it would be idle and useless to dwell upon them
here. The courage and constancy of the latter during his
defense of Mexico have been favorite themes of former writers,
and it is well known that he was captured in a canoe by San-
doval, one of the officers of Cort^ His address to the latter
when he appeared a prisoner before him will never be forgot-
ten. " I have done my duty as a king — sheathe your dagger
in my body — ^my life is now useless to myself and my subjects."
Although a captive, and allowed to remain 4n the Capital upon
certain pretexts, Cortes took him with him in an expedition to
Honduras. During the march thither, one of the Indian con-
verts ill his train, informed Cortes that a conspiracy had been
set 01) foot by his captive-king with the Cacique of Tacuba
and other nobles, to seize a favorable moment when the army
should be entangled in the defile or morass, and rise upon the
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
0T7ATIM0ZIN AND filS FATE. 223
8pim!aTd«. After the destraetioii of Uie latter, the Indians
were to march on to Honduras, and cut off the Spanish settlers
tliere, then to retarn to Mexico, effect a general rising of
the tribes, seize the vessels, and thns exterminate the invaders.
Cones immediately arrested Guatimozin and the Aztec
lords in his train. From the latter he learned the truth of the
Indian's story, they alleging that the plot had been planned by
the Prince, but denying their own participation in it. The
Prince neither denied nor acknowledged the accusation, but
ffiaintaiQed a dogged and stabl»ora silence. It was evident^
however^ that a rising of the Aztecs had been discussed, if
not planned. Cortes ordered them to instant execution, and
the prince with other nobles was hung from the branches of a
ceiba tree by the roadside. Thus closed the line of the Im-
perial Aztecs in 1525, although the Imperial career was
finished on the 13th of August, 1521, the day on which the
Capital was taken. Here ended the race of Mexican Em-
perors, after a period of one hundred and nvaety-seven years,
and three hondved years from the emigration of the tribe to
Mexico.
Cortes pushed on, but subsequently akurmed by tidings of
discontent brewing in bis Capital, he returned to Mexico. The
Conquest of Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Darien, and the Gulf of
Panama, would scarce have been too remote for the brilliant
schemes of this daring adventurer, had not Fate willed other-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SS4 NIGARAQUA.
wife. Basely treated by tbe coantry for which he ha,d gathered
iminense revenaes, he retarued to Spain to urge his clairos,
and to a?ow his innocence of all preferred charges. Afler a
aeries of misfortunes, he finally withdrew to the village of
Castill^a de la Coesta, attended by his son, where, on the 2d
of December, 1547, in the sixty-third year of his age, he died
of a broken heart.
His remains were transported to the Chapel of the Monastery
of San Isidro in the City of Seville, where they were placed in
the family vault of the Duke of Medina Sidona. In 1562,
they were removed by his son Don Martin, to New Spain, and
laid in the monastery of St. Francis in Tezcnco, by the side of
his wife, DoSa Catalina Pizarro, and a daughter. In 1629
they were again removed, and on' the death of Don Pedro they
were taken to the Church of St. Francis in the City of Mexico.
Notwithstanding this removal, they were not permitted to
rest by the authorities of Mexico, but in 1794 were taken
to the Hospital of Jesus of Nazareth. In 1823 a mob, in
commemoration of the era of their National Independence and
their detestation of the early Spaniards, prepared to break open
the tomb holding the ashes of the Conqueror and scatter them
to the winds ; the authorities even did not interfere, but the
family, or their Mends, entered the vault by night, and
secretly removed the relics.
Cortes, by his first marriage, had no children. By his
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
MONTEZUlfA'S THREE PAYOKITE DAUaHTEBS. 325
second be left foar : a son, Don Martin, and three danghters,
who formed splendid alliances. "He also left," says Prescott,
"several natural children, whom he particularly mentions in
his testament, and honorably provides for. Two of these,
Don Martin, the son of Marina, and Don Lnis Cortes, at-
tained considerable distinction, and were created Comenda-
dores of the Order of St. Jago. The male line of the Mar-
qaesses of the Yalley, became extinct In the fourth generation.
The title and estates descended to a female, and by her marriage
were united with those of the house of Terranova, descendants
of the ' Great Captain' Oonsalvo de Cordova. By a snbse-
qnent marriage, they were carried into the family of the Duke
of Mouteleone, a Neapolitan noble."
Montezuma, dying, commended three favorite daughters to
the protection of Cortes. After the death of the emperor,
they were baptized, and subsequently married to Spaniards
of honorable descent and family, and from them descended
several noble houses of Spain. To Dona Isabel, Cortes
granted the city of Tacuba, and several other places as a
dowry. The house at Castilleja de la Cuesta, near Seville,
Spain, formerly occupied by Cortes, has been recently pur-
chased by the Duke de Montpensier, with a view to its being
repaired and preserved as a national monument. The Span-
iards do not often trouble themselves about their antiquities.
And here having traced the career of Hernando Cortes to
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
8S6 ' NIGASAQUA.
its close, we maj, witbont violence to our narrative, advert to
another Spanish adventurer, Pizarro, the Gonqneror of Perv,
who after planting the Cross of the Crasade upon the desolated
altar of the Incos, was assassinated in his palace on Sunday
the 26th of June, 1541. Pizarro, unprepared as he was,
baffled for a long time the combined efforts of sixteen assail-
ants to dispatch him, bat finally overpowered, he sank, hia
body pierced with the swords of several of the conspirators.
The dying conqueror traced a cross with his finger on the
bloody floor, bent down his head to kiss it, murmuring "Jesul
Jesn !" when a stroke ended his struggling existence.
The friends of Pizarro prevailed on his enemies to snfler
them privately to inter his remains. The body was wrapped
in a cotton cloth, and removed to the Cathedral ; a grave was
dug in an obscure comer, the services hurriedly completed,
and thus, in secrecy, was the Corse of the Conqueror consigned
to kindred dust. In the language of Gomara, " There was
none even to say, ' God forgive him V "
Subsequently, upon the restoration of tranquillity, the re-
mains were placed in a coffin, and deposited under a monu-
ment in a conspicuous part of the Cathedral. In 1607, his
bones were removed to the New Cathedral, where they re-
posed by those of Mendoza, Viceroy of Peru. Pizarro was
never married, but by an Indian Princess of the Inca blood,
he had a son and daughter. Both survived him, but the son
Digitized by VjOQSIC
PIZARRO'S TITLE, ESTATE, AND REMAINS. 327
died ere reaching manhood. The mother wedded Ampnero,
a Spanish cavalier, and removed with him to Spain. Her
daughter Francisca accompanied her, and subseqaently mar-
ried her ancle, Hernando Pizarro. The title and estates of
Francisco did not desoend to his illegitimate offspring ; bat
in the third generation the title was revived in favor of Don
Juan Hernando Pizarro, who was created Marqais de la
Gonqnesta, with a liberal pension. His deseendants, bearing
this title, are still to be foand, saja Prescott, at Trbzillo, ia
the ancient province of Estramadara^ the birth-place of the
Pizarros.
In a " Ramble from Sydney to Soathampton," published iix
1851, the following interesting article appears : " In thei crypt,
under the high altar, are deposited the remains of the cele-
brated Pizarro, who was assassinated hard by. A small piece
of silver, which I dropped into the hand of the attending
sacristan, procured me admission into the crypt. Descending
a few steps, I entered a small place, some twenty feet long,
qnite light, and whitewashed, and which smelt and looked so
much like a comfortable wine-cellar, that I caaght myself
more than once looking round for the bins and bottles. The
first object I saw was a large square tomb, surmounted by
the erect figare of an Abbot, and, close by, in a narrow open-
ing in the wall, I noticed, what first appeared to me to be a
collection of dusty rags, but a closer inspection proved that
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
828 NIOARAQUA.
this WM all that remained of the renowned Conqaeror of
Pero/'
He had still on him the clothes and shoes which he wore at
the time of his assassination. Of coarse his body is nothing
bnt a skeleton, co?ered with dried flesh and skin, so that no
features are discernible. The body is covered with what was
white linen swathed around him, bat the dnst of centuries had
collected on it, and turned it into a light-brown color, and it
almost pulTerizes when touched. The body is placed on a
narrow piece of plank, in a sloping position, and was pat in
this hole merely to get it out of the way. The folks in Lima
do not think any thing of the remains of poor Pizarro, and I
dare say that a little money, judiciously invested, would procure
for any curiosity-hunter the whole of his remains." Dr. Cohen
of Baltimore has one of the fingers of Pizarro.
Thus closed the lives of the most illastrioas leaders of the
Conquest known in Spanish history. The followers of Pizarro
and Cortes were far from being the chivalry of Old Spain ;
they were adventurers, whose minds, excited and elated by the
returns of gold and precious stones from Mexico and Peru,
only saw in those new regions a prodigality of wealth, to be
won by the swords of the daring, and who, probably, bankrupt
in fortune, dreamed of an El Dorado, where, in a single cam-
paign, they might regain &baloas riches, and riot in Indian
pleasures.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
IBRESISTIBLE ABQUMENTS OF THE HOLT GROSS. 329
The Cross reared apoD despoiled shriDes, whether of the
Aztecas or the Incas, only added a cloak, a solemDitj, an
earnestness to their purpose ; bat the craelties attendant upon
the introdnction of the Holy Catholic Faith were strange
arguments wherewith to justify the Confessor's lessons of
Justice, Humility, Good- will, and Love I From the throne to
the hut, the population received the new Faith, baptized with
the blood of their fellow-beings, and the bigotry and reckless-
ness of the Fathers of the Conquest bat illy paralleled the acts
of Him, who on Golgotha offered himself for the Redemption
of mankind I It is to these scenes of plunder, pillage, and ?io-
lence, the memory of the exiled Indian reverts, as he gazes opon
the Holy Cross — he feels an awe creeping over his soul, aa
he marks the Fathers, as of yore, chanting the Mass, and he
innately shudders as he notes the dominion of the Church
extending over his native haunts.
It has been said by some writer, " that from the outermost
margin of this Continent to the shores of the Atlantic, the name
and fame of Montezama is cherished by the various tribes.''
Many of the Indians of Nicaragua, with still anextinguished,
though secret veneration for their hidden Idols, nourish the
hope, and sacredly cling to the belief, that this most unfortunate
of the Aztec Emperors, will yet return and re-establish his
Empire, and, hoping for the Paraiso of yore, where, ere the
mailed steeds of Castile brought dismay and carnage, Monte-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
880 NICARAGUA. .
soma, to his people, was the reflectioo of their Deitj — the
impersonation of Infinity.
We have thus given an extended sketch of the origin of
Mexican civilization, because Gaatemala at the time referred
to comprised Nicaragua^ and was peopled by the same tribes
or their descendants. The flow of Empire has been west-
ward ; the gems of Honduras, the fertile Talleys of Costa Rica,
with her pearl fisheries, the minerals of Nicaragua, with its
aalubrioas climate — ^these attracted the avaricious Gonqaerors,
and ere long they broke in upon the peacefhlly-goyerned
plains whither the shattered remnants of the yanquished had
fled, and found a temporary retreat
Nicaragua was justly termed El Paraiso de Mahoma. The
early tribes who had journeyed from the far distant North,
where wars were waging, found, as they progressed in their
exile, pleasant hills and valleys, luxuriantly covered with shady
groves and pleasant fruits, where nature offered them a gene-
rous support and exacted but little, if any labor in return.
The spirit of the warlike grew more social as he came in con-
tact with his fellow-man, and the magical power of agricalture
revealed to him something beyond a subsistence to be gained
by weapons imbued in his brother's blood.
The warrior, in his sterner Northern clime, had imbibed a
spirit, a love for war, but in the soft luxnriancy of the South,
new scenes suggested new ideas, and prompted the erection
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A STEP T0WAB1> CIVILIZATION. 331
of protections against the Sun. The love for war was suc-
ceeded by enthusiasm, a wish to venerate something. There
was a Giver — a God — a Deity — a Parent of all this teeming
grandeur and goodness — and in the deep leafy arcades, on the
mountain crests, in the dim niches of the echoing valleys,
pyramids arose, fashioned by the once bloody hands, and
dedicated to a Deity. Although adored by human sacrifices,
this was a step toward civilization, inasmacb as the idea bom
might and would in time tend to the cultivation of ennobling
thoughts and humanizing practices. The Deity they wor-
shiped had protected them through their weary pilgrimage,
and the Yale of Anahnac, once the scene of sacrifices, soon
received the genial influences of the Christian religion, and
the sacrificial stone and bloody knives were succeeded by the
Baptismal Font and the Rosary.
The remains of ancient cities attract the tourist in Guate-
mala. Ruins of much interest have been found in Nicaragua,
and we may truly hope that the records of the past may not
be entirely destroyed, but may yet serve to throw much light
on the early history of this interesting country. Nations have
fullen, and been succeeded by others on our Continent. We
vainly strive to gather data from the archives of oblivion ; the
tide of Time remorselessly sweeps important documents beyond
our reach, and we mi\3t soon rely on the History of the Indian
—Tradition I
Digitized by VjOOv IC
CHAPTER XXX.
WL BIOBITO DUi B8TBXCH0— the SECRET OV THE STIIAIT.
OOBTKS m •■ARCH OF TBI STRAIT— WHAT PRR8C0TT SATS ABOUT IT— WHAT
OTIBDO THOUGHT OF CORTRS' OPIlTIOir — ALVARADO IR 8BARCH OP IT— CHRIS-
TOTAL DB OLID TBIBS HIS HARD— THB 8BCRBT TO HAKB CHARLBS THB F1PTH
LORD OF THB WORLD — ALL THR HARITIMB HATI0R8 OF BUROPR TRTIHO TO
PBRBTRATR IT — SPAIR BAOBR OH THR SUBJECT — BALBOA CLAIH8 THR
BRTIRR PACtFIO OCRAV — RRYRLS IB GOLD AVD OBHS — FIRALLT 8UPFRRS
AS A TRAITOR — PBDRO ARIAS ARD HIS TRBACHRRT — THR COKQURRORS OF
MRXICO AND PRRU HRBT IR BOKDURAS — HUTUAL A8T0HI8HHBNT OP THR WAR-
RIORS— SPRCULATIOR STILL RIFB AS TO THB STRAIT — THR SECRRT TBT IB
BMRRTO — FITR P0IRT8 OF TRABSIT — THR RIO SAB JUAB ABD THB RAPIDS —
OBJBCnOBS TO A SHIP CABAL — ^ADYABTAGBS OF A BAILWAT— BSTIHATRS
ABD BBBABKS*
Cortes In 1524 fitted oat an Expedition, the principal ob-
ject of which was to discoTer a Strait which sboald connect
the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. He also had another squad-
ron of five vessels for the same purpose in the Gulf of Mexico,
to take the direction of Florida. This discovery was then, as
(332)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE SECRET OF THE STRAIT. S38
others have been in our times, " the great ignis fatnns of nari-
gators." Prescott very justly remarks: "By some it was
supposed that the Rio San Juan had been at one time naviga-
ble for frigates, and the Lakes Nicaragua and Managua, as
well as the Rio Tipitapa, were also considered to be one vast
sheet, and thence, there seemed to the early Spaniards, to be
a certain exit to the Pacific."
Oviedo, although he considered Cortes 'Uhe greatest cap-
tain and most practiced in military affairs of any we have
known," thought his opinion relative to the Strait ** proved
bim to be nO great cosmographer." The conversations and
correspondences of men of science touch frequently upon this
subject. Columbus wrote to the Emperor: "Your Majesty
may be assured that, as I know how much yon have at heart
the discovery of this Great Secret of a Strait, I shall postpone
all interests and projects of my own for the fulfillment of this
grand object." (Martyr, Opus, Epist. Ep, 811.) Alvarado
was deputed, with a large force of Spaniards and Indians,
to descend the southern plateau of the Cordilleras, and pene-
trate the countries beyond Oaxaca. This Expedition ter-
minated in the Conquest of Guatemala.
An armament was equipped and placed under the command
of Christoval de Olid, who was to steer for Honduras, and
plant a colony on its northern coast. A detachment of this
squadron was subsequently to cruise along its southern shore
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
884 moABAOuA.
toward Darien in aearchV'of the mjsterioDB Strait*' Tbe
country was reported to be so fall of gold, that ** the fisher-
men used gold weights for their nets." (^Bel, Quarta, Ap.
Lorenzana^ page 385.)
Ill 1523, tbe Emperor Charles Y. enjoins Cortes to search
carefully for it, and the latter in reply, adds : '* It would render
the King of Spain roaster of so many kingdoms that he might
consider himself Lord of the World." Cortes, however, was
compelled to return to Spain, and the search was abandoned.
The Romans knew little of a worJd beyond the Western
waves ; their acquaintance with Southern and Middle Europe,
and a portion of Africa and Asia being imperfect and limited,
for they were not a maritime nation, and water is the element
of the discoverer. Subsequently Europe, being divided into
Independent nations, the Republics on the Baltic and Mediter«
ranean launched thdr vessels upon the waves, seeking com-
mercial advantages, while Spain and Portugal competed with
the Eastern Caravans in their search for another avenue lead-
ing to the Indian Spice Islands.
'* The discovery of a strait into the Indian Ocean," says
Prescott, " was the burden of every order from the Government
The discovery of an Indian passage is the true key to the
maritime movements of the fifteenth, and the first half of the
sixteenth centuries." And again : ** The eagerness to explore the
wonderful secrets of the New Hemisphere became so active', that
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SNOHANTINQ TALES OF THE SPANISH EL DORADO. ^5
the principal cities of Spain were, In a manner, depopalated^
as emigrants thronged one after another to take their chances
upon the deep."
The Veniiian Ambassador, Andrea Navagiero, who traveled
through Spain in 1525, notices the general fever of emigration.
Seville, in particular, he says, was so stripped of its inhabit-
ants, that the city was left almost to the women. ** Tiie El
Dorado," where the sands sparkled with gems, and golden
pebbles as large as birds'-eggs were said to be dragged out of
the streams in nets, the emerald mines of Pern, where the gems
were found upK)n the surface, the turquoises and amethysts of
in6nite varieties, and the massive chains of gold, composed of
large lumps of the precious metal, of exquisite quality, wooed
the adventurous to this Land of Light, called by the Spaniards,
Castillo del Oro — Golden Castile.
What were naked Indians, armed with spears, clubs and
primitive weapons, to the shield, helm, and coats of mail of
the Castillian Knights? What were hunger, thirst, fevers,
death even, to those who, from continuous poverty, heard tales
of enchantment, and tottered from their couches, to enrol thenf^
selves under the banners of the Conquerors? \\rhat to them
vvjis the Holy Cau^e — the Faith? Not what buoyed the
Templars and Hospitallers on the arid sands of the East — a
wateliword of belief — and who dying in defense of the Red
Cnjss, were assured of an eternity in Paradise ! No I Tlie
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
886 ^OAKAOUA.
incentiTe was gold, and while the Aztecs mourned their
national degradation, new altars were builded, and a new God
adored. Even then, the golden shores of the Pacific were yet
unexplored — unknown.
How magnificently resounded through Castile the report of
Yasco Niifiez de Balboa, the discoverer of the Soathern Sea,
who while weighing some gold collected from the natives, was
accosted by a young chieftain, who had been attentively mark-
ing the satibfaction expressed upon the features of the strangers.
** What ! is it this you desire ?" said the Barbarian.
'* Yes I'' replied the Chivalry of the Conquest. " Gold I Gold !"
The chief struck the scales with his hand, and scattering
the treasure far and wide, contemptuously exclaimed, ''If this is
what yon so much prize that you are willing to abandon your
distant homes, and risk even life itself for it, I can tell you' of a
land where they eat and drink out of golden vessels, and gold
is cheap as iron is with you. To the North I To the North !"
and Balboa, armed to the teeth, rushed fratitically to the
Pacific, where he exclaimed, *' I claim this unknown sea with
all that it contains for the King of Castile, and I will make
good the claim against all. Christian or Infidel, who dare gain-
say it."— (JSferrera— 2>ec. 1, Lib. 10, Cap, 2.)
Darien was occupied, but Balboa in 1519 transferred his
Capital to the ancient site of Panama, which althongh un-
healthy, was favorably located for maritime enterprise. Years
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
VASOO NtJNEZ DE BALBOA. 33T
olapsed, and the conntry Sooth of this was ansoaght, the de-
tection of a Strait which was supposed mast intersect some
portion of the extended Isthmus, being enforced strictly by
tlie Qovernment. Balboa next landed on the shores of a
territory, the name of whose Prince, was Gonra. Thence he
navigated various streams and bays, and steered toward the
dominions of a Cacique named Tumaco.
This Chief opposed the landing of the strangers, but peace
ensuing, the Spaniards received many valuable presents in
token of entire pacification. Some of the servants of the chief
brought gifts of gold to the value of six hundred and fourteen
pieces-of-eight, and two hundred and forty-five large pearls,
with many others, which, though small, were bright These
gems were not so white as usual, owing to the Indians having
used fire in opening the oysters. The Spaniards evincing such
great joy upon receiving the pearls, the Cacique sent some of
his Indians to fish, who within four days, returned with as
many as weighed no less than ninety-six ounces. The Cacique
assured Nuiiez that there was a conntry about five leagues
from thence, where there was an abundance of large oysters,
which contained pearls as large as beans.
Subsequently, Nnflez was created Lord Lieutenant of the
Countries on the South Seas by the Crown, Pedro Arias
d*A villa having been chosen Governor of Castillo del Oro.
This officer is commonly called Pedrarias by the Spanish
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
MS MiflAmAOUA.
writcn. Nafies in 1511, in the 4Sd year of his age, suffered
at a traitor^ for hafing eerred hia Prtuce with too mach seal
and fidelity. A coona of cruelty finally compelled Pedro
Arias to think of remoTing firom his palace at Panama, to
some remote apot^ where his enemies wonld forget^ if they
would not forgive hioi.
About the beginning of 1526, the Court of Spain, wearied
with continual complaints against him, determined to send a
successor I Pedro hearing of this, determined to retire to
Nicaragua^ whose conquest, already attempted by Francisco
Hemaadei, he resolTed to secure to himself. Francisco ad-
fanced cordially to meet him, but Pedro pretending to have
receiyed information that the latter intended to revolt, treach-
erously seized, and had him beheaded. Hated and despised,
yet he was confirmed in his government of Nicaragua, a fitting
tool for the Inquisitorial rack and cord.
Yeragua and Costa Rica were subsequently occupied by
other leaders, and the mailed knights, forcing their way through
morasses, over mountains, and through dense jungles, started
aghast, when in Honduras, they heard the trumpets of Christ-
ian comrades pealing defiance, and rushed astonished into
mutual view. Then, and not till then, had the survey of this
wild Realm been completed, and the warriors met, only to
exchange tales of wonder, feats of daring or legends of pleasure,
one exhibiting gold and gemS| another magnificently painting
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE VAMOUS ^CflfXTB OF TRANSIT. 6%%
the beanties of the soft-eyed Amazons, or the dasky daaghters
of down-trodden Azatlan.
Sinee that time speculation has been rife, relative to the
Strait, and five points of Transit have been indicated, which
we give, although Mr. Sqaler has already written Tery ably
upon the snbject.
First. The Isthmus of Tehuantcpec, between the sonrces of
the River Chimalpa and the Haasacualco, falling into the
Atlantic.
Becond. The Isthmus of Nicaragua, by the River San Juan,
Lake Nicaragua to the Gulf of Fonseca, the Gulf of Papagaya,
or the Port of Realejo.
Ttiird. The Isthmus of Panama.
Fourth. The Isthmus of Darien.
Fifth. The Isthmus between the Rio Atraio, falling into tb«
Atlantic, and the Rio Ghoco, falling into the Pacific.
From the Lake Nicaragua, however, teveral routes have
been suggested. One by the River Sapoa to the Bay of Sali-
ftai. One by the Rio Lajas near Rivat, (however, utterly
impracticable), to San Juan del Snr, the present Transit.
Another, by the Rio Tipitapa to the Port of Tamarinda, on
the Pacific, or to Realejo, or by the Estero Real to the Bay of
Fonseca.
In the first place, the Rio San Juan has many streams
JMaiug from It, whioh bleed U so profusely, that at times evea
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S40 MIOARAOUA.
the boats drawing eighteen inches run aground ; the Tauro, (Col-
orado, Serapoqai, and the San Carlos, mast first be dammed op,
ere a sufficient volame of water could be had upon which reliance
might be based. I have weighed maturely the various sug-
gestions of those interested in this Canal, and if I mistake not,
Mr. Squier expresses doubts as to the navigability of the San
Juan for vessels of large size. He also deems the Castillo
Rapids a formidable objection.
I do not believe these Rapids to be the result of any up-
heaving from natural causes, but are chiefly artificial, and I
farther believe, that were these mouths, the Colorado, Tauro,
and the San Juan dammed, the immense body of water flowing
from the Lake, would cut and keep open a very considerable
channel, which would greatly improve navigation. The Col-
orado being the heaviest drain, I paid minute attention to this
bleeder, and do not doubt that a comparatively small sum paid
to an enterprising Yankee, would sufficiently choke it off.
The Rapids of Machuca, Mico, Los Yalos, and the Toro,
are inconsiderable, though of course each of these obstructions
would receive their quota of a capital raised for their removal.
The difficulty of Ship Transit never occurred to me to arise
from any of these, but solely from the nature of the base of the
River, and in a measure from the nature of its banks, they being
so yielding as to add greatly to the alluvial deposits, during
the rainy season. The bottom of the river is flinty rock, and
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
ADVANTAGES OF A RAILWAY. 341
an Incalcalable amoant of labor and money woald be required
for the constraction and completion of the Great Ship Canal.
But why should the world at large harp forever on this mode
of Transit f Why not attempt a railway from Greytown, on
the right bank of the Bio San Jnan, to San Carlos 1 The
idea is as valuable as his who suggested the Canal ! For all
purposes, supposing steamships to angment, trade would be
as greatly facilitated, if not in a greater degree, than by a
Canal. Supposing the latter to be completed, would not a
longer time be required for the passage of ships from the
Atlantic to the Pacific than would be necessary for the un-
loading at Greytown and the reloading at San Carlos together
with the overland railroad conveyance ? Steamers upon the
Lake would be necessary of course, and yet trade would be
facilitated immensely, for in the event of such an arrange-
ment, Americans would form a nucleus around each depot,
and there need be no necessity for depending upon the Nica-
raguans.
A fine trade would ensue from the interior alone — Nica-
ragua would be benefitted by it, as also Costa Rica, and in a
much less time could a railroad be constructed. I believe it
to be as practicable as the Canal. But the latter has occupied
the general attention, and although the Government of Nica-
ragua has entered repeatedly into negotiations for such a
desirable national improvement, the ignis fatuns survives the
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
84S KIQA&AOUA.
attempt A pamphlet was written upon ibis subject by tba
present Emperor of France, Loais Napoleon, when at Ham,
bat it is devoid, I believe, of the merit claimed for it hj Its
author, and his estimates are certainly incorrect,
Baily estimates the Bio San Jnan, including its windings,
to be eighty-eight miles in length, and therefore ii has a fall
of about sixteen inches to the mile. The result of three hun-
dred and fifty-one levels taken by him in 1B38 between Saa
Juan del Sur and the mouth of the Bio Lajas, shows that the
level of the Lake is one hundred and twenty-eight feet thret
inches above that of the Pacific Mr. Llayd estimates tbt
Pacific at low water in the Bay of Panama, to b^ mx feet six
inches lower than the Caribbean Sea at Chagres. Assuming
this, we have Lake Nicaragua one hundred and twenty-one feet
nine inches above the Atlantic The variation of the level with
the season is about six feet six inches.
Belative to the cost of making snch an immense Canal,,
which would most probably be the largest in the world, and
fit to be stamped Napoleon de Nicaragua, could it be con-
structed for two hundred millions of dollars, would the trade
guaranty its outlay? Eight out of every ten laborers sent
there would die — provisions could be obtained only at exor-
bitant prices, while the comforts of a home could not be had
on any terms. In many localities on this river it rains every
day in the year while heavy fogs lie above the tree tops, pro-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
OBJECTIONS TO Jk SHIP CANAL. '6^'ik
ducing a dose, damp, choking atinosphere, markedly op-
pressive.
The change is very remarkable as you touch the Jjake.
There the air is fresher and pnrer, bnt as yon descend the
river you feel at once that you have reached a dl£ferent climate*
And again, fuel along this Transit is fast becoming scarce.
The wood being porons and wet, generates but little steam,
and the stations are illy supplied. Coal could be transported
on the railway horn the Atlantic Terminus to the Pacific, bul
this can be done to little extent now, upon the stem-wheel
boats. At times during the rainy season, they can barely
carry their load of passengers, and I have known the river-
boats to run aground on sand-bars formed within twenty-four
hours, and forced to remain there frequently all night, exposing
their living freight to the most insinuating rain. There they
would anchor till daybreak, when, to lighten the craft, the
passengers wonld have to leap overboard, and give a " help-
ing hand."
To those who dream of a Ship Canal, I only add, be no
longer befogged — and to those Capitalists whose expectancies
are merged in vessels and foreign trade, I would suggest the
Railway as e(]^uatly feasible. Beds of coal have been dis-
covered in Costa Rica and on the Mosquito Coast, and con-
sequently this article could be had *at less expense than the
poor wood of the neighboring conntry.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S44 NIOARAOUA.
For porposei beyond a trayeling Ttansit, tbe Bio San
Joan wiU not be used for many years to come ^ and should a
Railway be constructed through the Cbiriqui District, where
advantages are greater for a similar mode of transportation,
travel would decrease on the Nicaragua Transit, inasmuch as
there is wanting capital and energy with the inhabitants, and
the state of the country will be no doubt for years as it has
been, unsettled, and foreign Capitalists will not yenture where
there are so many chances for outlay, and so few for revenue,
without the Cass and Yrisarri Treaty be fully and fairly
entered into.
Should the Government of Nicaragua be once firmly based,
and not made the butt for contending factions, as heretofore it
has been, this State may occupy the most important position
on the Map of New Spain ; and should her mines be explored,
her revenues would guaranty extensive public improvements
worthy of a nation, which in many respects is far superior to
the different races which surround her — remnants of the exiles
from dismantled Azatlan.
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
CHAPTER XXXI.
CABDIHAL SOintOVS OF A NATION'S 6RNATNVS8— TBI rUTUKN OF RIOABAOVA—
00RTAIH8 ALL THB BLBMBRT8 Or WBALTB — MUST AWAKB OR SLBBP FOB*
BTBB — A YI60R0US RBPUBLIO OH TBB WING — TBB OKBAT HATIOHS OP TBB
BAST PBBLIHG HBB INPLUBHCB — BBR 8BAD0W ALRBADT OH TBB HALLS OF
TBB MOHTBSUMAS — BLIflBTIHO IHPLUBHCB OF TBB MOTBRR COUHTRT — TBB
BBPUBLICS OF TBB GREAT SOUTBBRH COHTIHBHT— CALIFORHIA A VAST HA-
TIORAL MART — SAH FRANCISCO TBB CONSTANTINOPLE OF TBB AMERICAS — OUB
BOLD BUHTBRS AHD TBOSB OF THE CONQUEST — MOUNTAINS HEYER KEEP
AOCOUHTS — TAB GREAT PACIFIC RAILWAY — THE PRESENT MAIL ROUTE — AM
AYEHUB HEEDED FOR THB TRADB OF ASIA — OUR CONTINENT A WORLD IN IT'
SELF — ADYANTAOES OF THB PROPOSED SBIP CANAL — GREAT BRITAIN YBRSU8
THB UHITBD STATES.
The cardinal soarces of a. nation's greatness are, no doabt,
Agricultare, Commerce, and Manufactures. Nicaragua can
only, to a very limited extent, claim them as standards of her
present position as an independent and vigorous Republic.
Weak in her army, devoid entirely of a marine, she possesses
(846)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
846 NIOA&AQUA.
but little ability to defend herself from the armed aggressors
or fillibasters, who seek wealth, pleasure, and repose in her
inviting territory.
With a population sufficient to rouse her from the lethargy
of the Past, with products capable of enabling her to assume
her proper rank among rigorous nations, and with a super-
abundance of mineral wealth wherewith to support her dignity
as a Republic, naught seems wanting save an innate spirit of
Enterprise. As yet, her minerales yield gold only to strangers ;
her extent of public lands are unredeemed from total neglect ;
DUunioHf that baneftil, leprous curse, prowls through her
realm, and Religion, in the absence of her first-born — Educa-
tion, doubly mourns the inattention to her invocations. Lying
in the path of the thriving, enterprising Republic of the Uufted
States, she must either rouse from her apathy, or she will
indeed add, in a few years, but one more star to our Banner.
A wise provision in the Constitution of a State may woo
the stranger to her domain, a cold reserve will chill bis
approach. The Plain of Leon is admirably adapted to the
cultivation of sugar, and man/ sections to the growth of
cotton. Her tobacco ranks high, her soil is generous, and to
the agriculturist indeed inviting. Her mines are abundant
and wealthy. Can it be that she wilt indulge in the apathy
of the by-gone ? Where the rank grass waves, crops of
maize should flourish, and where the swarthy Cayman re-
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MUST AWAKII OR ShMKP FOBEVXB. S4T
poses, the settler voald obtain his mack for vegetation. A
Uttle liberality upon the part of its Qoverninent would quickly
meet an ample recompense. From San Jorge to Bealejo are
found haciendas, with but few exceptions, in even tolerable
condition. Everywhere is a lack of enterprise and capital.
A system of drainage would produce an ample supply of
excellent water, and the climate would hence be improved.
To an American, life in this land would pass as a pleasant
dream.
To him who, reared in the mountainous districts of the
United States, seeks bracing air and a life of excitement,
Nicaragua offers great inducements ; to the ardent Southerner,
Bivas, Granada, Managua, and Leon appeal ; to the enthu-
siast who would woo Nature, here is she prolific in charms,
and to him who has dived deeply into the yawning gulfs in
search of ores, I can only add, here he cannot be disappointed.
With a population introduced, composed of such, the Future
of this State would indeed be glorious. With the proposed
Canal and her subsequently-developed resources, we could
proudly acknowledge this Central Land as a kindred Republic.
But as I write, her destiny is being recorded. She must awake,
or sleep forever; for while she apathetically resigns herself
to an inactivity neither " masterly" nor advantageous, a vigor-
ous Bepublio is on tha wing, whose tramp is heard on the
neighboring islands as she marches to her Pacific children.
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848 NIOARAaUA.
The European powers are conceDirating on the eastern
borders of Asia. Australia, from being a penal colony, springs
magically into importance, her gold replenishing the exhausted
coffers of the Eastern Hemisphere, while her agricultural re-
sources, vast, illimitable, invite and retain the thrifty husband-
man', alike with the industrious and enterprising mechanic.
Japan is opening her sealed ports, and American influence
has impressed its masses with our ability, courage, and ad-
yancemeut as a great people. China and Cochin-China are
peering from behind their ancient walls, and inquiringly scan
OS vis-a-ms, while Russia, cold in climate, breaks the fetters
of her serfs, and without jealousy, marks our Flag upon foreign
lands and seas, and meets us openly and fairly in our national
exchanges.
Spain perceives our shadow lying on the threshold of the
balls of the Montezumas — on the dominions of the Incas — on
the shores of the Antilles — and she feels we must eventually
plow her ancient empire on this Continent. And how true
the suggestion that whatever France, England, Russia, and
Spain may accomplish here, our Republic must eventually be-
come enriched thereby. The Empire of Brazil exists, 'tis true,
and Portugal possesses in her transatlantic territory a treas-
ure. Yet her minerals are undeveloped, her forests unknown,
her diamond mines but imperfectly worked, and her agricultu-
ral resources certainly not in a progressive state
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THE BEPUBUGS OF THE SOUTHERN CONTINENT. 349
The soldiers of Pizarro inculcated in Peru not an idea of
thrift. They marched over her soil, despoiling, murdering,
blighting. The industry of her population was crushed in
the gerA, and the public works of the Incas, grand in concep-
tion and magnificent in design and detail, have fallen to decay,
or remain in a state of semi-completion, as when the gold-
shod steeds of the Conquerors knelled on the arched bridges
death and devastation through the heart of their Empire.
The Chilians are somewhat awakening from their past degra-
dation, though the South Americans, generally, are but little
removed from the slavish condition in which they were when
the Mother of the Conquest abandoned the New World for
her Hispanian shores.
In proportion as the Eastern shores of Asia become thronged
with Europeans, are the resources of our Pacific States de-
veloped, and thither are drawn magnetically the Republics of
the Southern Continents, who, enervated by hitherto spas-
modic kite-flying in bogus minerales and short-lived specula-
tions, seek our enterprising markets, not only desiring to ac-
quire affinities political, but to partake of the wealth which
is steadily flowing to us in honorable, orthodox, mercantile pur-
suits. Already are our engineers, architects, and mechanics
engaged on the Southern Continent, spanning with bridges
and railways the hitherto trackless wilds, and as our Terri-
tories fill op, the intercourse between North and Souths
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ZM lfICA&A(HJA.
America mast increase. Our relations with the world at
large are comparatively nndistarbed, oar resources are
annually increasing, and the great work of peopling the
PaclBc shores invites oar energies and capital. The traffic
from oor realm is not to be limited to China or Japan. The
rast Tartarean region of the Amoor River, the Seas of Ochotsk
and Kamschatka, the Philippines, Borneo, Sumatra, the Eastern
coast of British India, Bunnah, Ceylon, Siam, and the numer-
ous groups of islands in Oceanica, may be engrossed in the
account.
Let as approach the subject, prepared to invest, pro-
'Vided we find in its investigation a guaranty for the capital
desired. California must be made an Emporium — a National
Mart. Its position Justifies the undertaking. Thither various
routes are already tending from the Atlantic sea-board.
Railway, Steamship, and Clipper Companies, are all dispatch-
ing valuable freights of travelers and goods, and all striving
for advantages over their healthy and energetic competitors.
Established railways are becoming connected by lateral routes,
while new ones are springing annually into existence, and
the two months' travel to New Orleans of a few years past, has
already been reduced to about four or five days. From thence,
San Francisco can be made in sixteen days via Tehauntepec,
and thence to Shanghai in eighteen more. Fresh teas from
China may therefore be npou the sale-counters in Philadelphia
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BONES AND GOLD WASHINGS. 661
!n thirty-eight days — now the time necessary for sailing
vessels is at least four months — sometimes more.
Various surveys are traced to the Constantinople of the
Americas. True, these numerous branches will merge into one
Capital Trunk, leading thither*ward, and in a few years the
links thus forged will form a complete chain, and our Republic
will stand on the Pacific, the Banker of the world. Bnt this
great chain should be a national one. The climate through
which surveys have been made possesses every advantage.
Oar territory would be more easily protected, and hence saf^
and more inviting to the native and emigrant
From all directions of our country, the mails bring fresh
news from the Mines, and add new gold washings and findings
to the already extended list. In the Middle States the precious
ore has been found, and from Maryland to Yirginia is but a
pleasant trip ; then the Carolinas, Georgia, Alabama, Ken-
tucky, Tennessee, and the States bordering on the great range
of mountains, all yielding the auriferous deposit, blended in
rock, or found in the generous streams. Onr new-sprung
Territories — some of them scarce baptized, with their earliest
accents, send tidings of continuous washings^ Nebraska from
the Cherry and Dry Creeks, and the Platte River, gives ns
thrilling news ; and far on the outer-basin, Frazer River, in-
vites the enterprising and hardy.
There is a vast field in Nicaragua, open for the agriculturist
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
852 NIOABAGUA.
and the grasier, for where there is and has been a genelral
desire, in fact, a mania, for gold fields, the venders of the ne-
cessaries of life have accaroolated all the wealth, while the
miners, in the majority of instances, have either returned home
almost as poor as when they left» or have ruined their consti-
tQtioDS in incessant toil in damp and nnhealthy localities, where
they amassed their " dust" at the expense of their health. The
history of the gold hanters of the Conquest compares with
tba*t of those of the present age, and we should profit, by a
perusal of those pages which chronicle the vices, the few
▼irtoes, and the superstitions and violences of the bygone.
The sodden enjoyment of great wealth had its natural and
unwholesome effect ; the means thus lightly obtained were little
prized ; the passion for gaming was indulged in without re-
•traint, and the prize money which was the reward of years of
toil, was oftentimes staked and lost in a single night. The
Spaniard Lequizano, whose share of booty in one victory in
Peru, was the image of the Sun, and who lost it in the indul-
gence of this national vice, gambling, has fathered the Spanish
proverb, ** Juega el Sol antes que amanezca" — Play away the
Sun before Sun-rise. The acquisition of fortunes, whether
by a chain of successes at the gaming table, or by ** streaks of
luck" in mining, are seldom beneficial or lasting, for where the
soldier stakes his last rial and loses, he consoles himself with
a new conquest, and the miner turns from the monte-table a
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THREE ROUTES FOR THE PACIFIC RAIL-ROAD. 353
bankrapt, with the proverb, "Well I Well I Moantaios never
keep accounts."
The gold-bearing quartz we have traced along the routes
of the Great Central Road to the Constantinople of the
Americas, whose history will be written with a pen of gold at
some remoter period. For the full development of our re-
sources, and the union of the Pacific with the Atlantic, three
continental lines of railway are necessary. One, starting from
the west shore of Lake Superior, traversing Minnesota, Ne-
braska and Washingtou, about on the parallel of the forty-
seventh degree Nortl| latitude, and terminating at Puget
Sound. Another starting from St. Louis, crossing Kansas
and Utah to San Francisco, in latitude thirty-eighth degree ;
and the third, from Memphis, Tennessee, traversing Arkansas,
Texas, the southern part of New Mexico and California to
San Diego, on the Pacific.
A wagon-road is even now established between San Fran-
cisco and the Mississippi, and the feasibility of one of the
above indicated routes, has been thereby evinced. That road
has been established within a year past, by order of Congress,
for the conveyance of mails and passengers between St. Louis
and Memphis, and California, and per contract, the Company
stipulate to carry the letter-mails semi-weekly, each way, in
four-horse post-coaches, suitable for the conveyance of passen-
gers, and to make the trip within twenty-five days. The
23
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S54 NICARAGUA.
ronte idected by the Po8t-0£Bce Department for this MaH
Line, probably possesses superior advantages, admitting of
travel the entire year, withont interrnption from snow or severe
cold, affording a practicable stage^road the whole way, and
furnishing accommodations of water, food, forage and fuel
along the line. The starting-points on the Mississippi, are
St. Louis and Memphis, and the two branches converge at
Little Rock in Arkansas ; thence the road crosses the northern
portion of Texas, the sontheru part of Mexico, striking the
head of the Oulf of California at Fort Tnma, and proceeding
north-westerly across California to San Francisco. From
Memphis to San Diego the way is plain.
This is a practicable Bail-Road Roate, for the distance
traveled by the Post- Coaches, is eighty miles per day. The
trade with Asia seeks an avenue across the Continent, and this
as well as travel between Europe and Asia will prefer thi^
route, provided we forestall Great Britain in her desire to
build a rail-road from Halifax through the Canadas to Yictoria
on the Pacific. This latter, however, would cost at least two
hundred and fifty millions of dollars, and when completed,
the track would be covered with snow for six months in each
year, and for three or four more additional, it is said with
water.
A quarter of a century past, and the summer tourist viewed
a trip beyond the limits of his own State, indeed a journey ;
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AMERICA A WORLD IN ITSELF. .
now he seeks the Rocky MoantainB, and as he roams throngk
its grand ravines, and from some hoary pinnacle gazes fiar
down npon the glorioos lap of Nature, how grandly do the
beauties of his own domain — his native land, appeal to his
soul ! The Alps, the Rhine, dwindle into insignificance when
compared with creations in our own realm 1 Our continent is
indeed a world in itself. On our matchless prairies, and in our
uuexcelled savannahs, we can sow and reap, and the harvests
are sufficient to feed a world. Where find finer timber,
grander streams, more migestic scenery f Where find a
more enlightened nation f In her progress already, she hath
proven her strength and activity.
Our Steamers sweep the Seas, our Clippers sail in the wake
of no foreign and competing crafts, our mechanics are myriad,
.and that which they must learn they acquire but to excel in.
Thirty millions strong, and at peace with mankind I Even
this truism seems fabulous I We are adrift upon a Sea, and
'our helmsman fears not the storms beating against our Ship
of State 1 Thirty millions of freemen, proud of their indepen-
dence, untrammeled, nerved for action, look forward for the
consummation of the great work leading to the Mediterranean
of the Future, where the Pacific, far exceeding the Mediterranean
of the Past, leads to a nation of freemen, not serfs and slaves,
bigots and despots. In the days of the Conquest, CorU's and
his followers looked on the Pacific as the famed Indian Ocean,
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
S56 NICARAGUA.
Btodded with golden klands and teeming with the rich trea-
sures of the East
The Telegraph and Rail-Road will, in my opinion, advance
as as a nation, in the present centnry, beyond the dreaming
fantasies of the wildest enthusiasts, and with Protection npon
our Minds as well as upon our Banner, our Victory is assured.
San Francisco is already in telegraphic communication with
Utah Territory. A line extends to Qeneva in Carson Yalley,
and it will be carried to Salt Lake ; there connecting Salt
Lake City with our Western telegraphic limits, we shall have
a working communication from San Francisco to Washington,
and thence to all our Eastern Cities.
The advantages to the United States, in point of distance
from Canton and Calcutta, per the proposed Nicaragua Ship
Canal Route, must strike the reader. From England to
Canton via the Canal, is fifteen thousand eight hundred miles,
while by the Cape of Good Hope it is only fifteen thousand
six hundred. From New York via the latter, to the same
port, seventeen thousand one hundred, but by the former, only
twelve thousand six hundred miles. From England to Cal-
cutta via the Cape of Good Hope, thirteen thousand five hun-
dred miles, and via the Canal, seventeen thousand four hun-
dred. From New York to the same, by the former route, fif-
teen thousand miles, and per the latter, fourteen thousand.
By the best present route, Great Britain enjoys an advan-
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XNOLAND VERSUS THE UNITED STATES. 357
tage in distance to the Asiatic ports of seventeen hundred
miles, while, should the Canal ever be perfected, there will be
a gain in favor of the United States of three thousand miles —
an average of fifteen to twentj-two days. From England to
Valparaiso per the Cape of Qood Hope, nine thousand one
hundred and thirty miles, while New York is ten thousand
three hundred and sixty ; but via the Canal, England would
be eight thousand five hundred, and New York only five thou-
sand five hundred miles. Again : From England to Callao,
by the Cape, ten thousand six hundred miles ; New York per
the same, twelve thousand one hundred, while by the Canal
we find the distance from England only seven thousand miles,
and from New York four thousand.
The Sandwich Islands from England, are fourteen thousand
five hundred miles per the Cape; from New York, sixteen
thousand. Via the Canal, the distance would be from the
former, eight thousand five hundred miles, and from New
York five thousand five hundred. Will our nation seize these
presented advantages, and in concert with others, consummate
the proposed Ship Canal, or will we concentrate capital ex-
clusively upon our own domain, and speed the Grand Central
Rail-Road, which shall connect the children now scattered from
the maternal side, yet seeking protection f
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CHAPTER XXXII.
MW m VAWtVlAK OOITQVKBT WAl ACATBVCll— m ftOWLtrCV OV Ttm nVk
nBVTH OBHTURT — CAPITAL OF TBB QCICHB KINGDOM — LAS CABAS IB OUA*
TBMALA— CORFLICTINO OPIVIORS AMONG AUTHORS — WHOSE SHALL WB ACCBPT?
<^TBB PAST AND PRESBNT OF MEXICO— SBNATOR HOUSTON'S PROPOSITION —
WHAT BRANTB MATER SATS— WHAT THB ABBB MOLINA SATS — WANT OV
CONFIDENCE ILLUSTRATED — ^NICARAGUA AS IT IS — WHAT PRB8C0TT SATS —
WHAT SPAIN WAS UNDER FERDINAND AND ISABEL — WHAT SHE 18 NOW —
CAUSES OF A NATION'S RISE OR FALL — DBSTINT OF THB UBITBD STATES — OHM
•F WBALTH ABO UBIYBESAL RBDBBPTIOM.
The Conqoest was achieved by the Castih'anSy aided by rival
Actions of the conntries whose shores the invaders sooght ;
the Tlascalans, who had been sabdaed in the onset, by Cortes,
proved allies subsequently, in the hour of need, without the
aid of whom, his followers must have perished, as would those
of Pizarro unsustained by national reinforcements. The
Aztecs and Peruvians disunited, fell victims to those, who
with superior weapons, and skilled in warfare, whether in field
(358)
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
ROMANCE OF THE FIFTEENTH CENTURT. 359
or ambush, felt their superiority ; and who kindled anew, at
every advance, the smouldering fires of discord and hate.
The romantic history of the Incas and Aztecas, possesses an
interest which flooding years neither erase nor dim. The
question of the early independence of Guatemala, Don
Domingo Jaarros has especially defended with marked zeal
and ability ; he has adduced arguments to prove that it was
never subjected to the Mexican sovereigns, althongh at the
same time acknowledging, 'Hhat a considerable emigration
took place from Mexico at a very early period." While
Gort6s was engaged in his wars in the latter, civil war was
raging in Oaatemala, between two of the most powerful
nations of the Province, the Eachiqnels and Zntngils. The
fame of Cortes having reached this country, the King of the
Eachiqnels sent depnties to him, asking his aid, and offering
submission to Spain. Pedro Alvarado, with three hundred
Spaniards and a large force of Mexican allies, were sent^
arriving in the beginning of the year 1524, when they com-
menced an attack upon the Quiches, the most warlike and
nnmerons of the thirty tribes of the kingdom. Disorganized,
and disunited, the different races fell under the nnrelenting
sword of Castile.
The King of the Quiches, joined by other States, mustered
on the Plain of Tzaccaha, two hundred and thirty-two thou-
sand warriors, who, defended by entrenchments, and surrounded
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S60 NICARAGUA.
by foflses lined with poisonoas stakes, were yet completely de-
feated in the first contest by the small army of Alvarado. The
Spaniards pnrsaed their advantage, and by the middle of the
year, had sabdued the entire country. The City of Utatlan,
the Capital of the Qaich^ Kingdom, was said by Faentes, to
be indeed magnificent ; and so populous, that the Icing was
enabled to draft from it " no less than seventy-two thousand
combatants to oppose the Spaniards." After a minute de-
scription of the city, he says, the Orand Palace surpassed
every other edifice, and in the opinion of Torquemada, it could
compete with that of Montezuma, or of the Incas.
We are compelled to forego an account in this volume of
the early history of Guatemala the Mother of Nicaragua, who
in the far-gone ages of the Conquest, possessed both wealth
and civilization. Although Indians — and characterized by
some recent authors as ignorant, cunning and deceitful — yet
the most authentic accounts represent them otherwise, and as
a whole much in advance of the nations surrounding them. In
the variety of its languages, Guatemala presents a still more
singular phenomenon than Mexico — ^twenty-five, according to
Juarros, being still spoken. Of course the Castilian became
the language in vogues Philip II. ordered a correct history of
the inhabitants while in a state of Idolatry, to be written by
the resident Priests, which, if prepared, cannot be discovered.
No tradition exists, which proves, or leads to the snppo^^ition
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OONPLIOTINa OPINIONS AMONG AUTHORS. 361
that hnman Tictims were offered to Idols. Las Casas settled in
Gnatemala in 1530, and with meek hamility, mild perauasion,
and acta of kindness, won Vera Paz, which had baffled the
arms of the hitherto victorious Castilians.
Shall we, in reviewing the past of Spanish America, accept
the statements of Bottarini, Oomara, Solis, Robertson, Ber-
nal Diaz, Clavigero, Sahagan, Ixtlilxochitl, Torqaemada, and
a host of other writers who have labored in this field f Shall
we reject the researches of Mafioz, who, by a royal edict, was
allowed free access to the public archives, and to all libraries,
public, private, and monastic ? Upon what shall we predicate
our knowledge of the bygone, if we accept and reject care-
lessly, or confine onr researches only to the dim pages of a
solitary tome J Upon no subject do historians more widely
differ in their views and results, than upon the early histories
of Mexico and South America, some, relying implicitly upon
the statements of a certain author, or set of authors ; othersi
as in the case of Prescott, principally basing their deductions
upon Bemal Diaz ; while Judge Wilson, and others, entirely
disregarding old authorities, hold Diaz as a counterfeit person-
age, and his history consequently a fiction. By the former
the Conquerors are held to be soldiers of the Holy Faith,
glowing with religious fervor, by the latter they are considered
as demons, who devastated the provinces of poor Indians.
The majesty of the ancient Aztecs is denied them, and the
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862 NICARAGUA.
whole career of Cortes and Pizarro, instead of being one of
romantic chivalry, as depicted by Prescott, is beclouded with
domoniac ferocity, and rendered, only as a great Indian war,
or a succession of rapid, startling battles, waged by the expert
and mailed warriors of the East against naked, ignorant tribes.
Shall we credit the historian who, regardless of established
aathorities, and by an evident desire to be novel in opinioir,
now seeks to entirely subvert our romantic associations with
the Aztecs and Incas, and to establish his own arguments, pro-
elaima Goraara, a I>» Foe, Bemal Diaz, a myth, De Alva^ a
magician, Boturini, Clavig^ro, Yeytia, and others, romancers^
and yet what better does he proffer to sustain his sweeping
charges against the array f For myself, I have not ventured
beyond historic realms, my subject only in a measure being
linked with the Early History of the Aztecs and Peruvians.
There was a definiteness, a fixedness in the purposes of those
nations, which I cannot trace with any of the Indian tribes of
the early United States.
At the beginning of the Sixteenth century, before the arri-
val of the Gastilians, the dominion of the Aztecs " reached
from the Atlantic to the Pacific, across the continent. Under
Ahuizotl, its arms had been carried into the farthest corners
of Guatemala and Nicaragua.'' Their form of government,
pursuits, and mode of life, differed materially from mere
Indians ; in fine, though in some respects similari in the aggra-
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SENATOR HOUSTON'S PROPOSITION. 363
gate there appears to me to haye been more of intellect in the
Aztec in those remote ages, than has ever been discovered
since amid the tribes whom modem writers assimilate, and
with whom thej identify them. PTescott^ from a mass of mana-
scripts, has produced his Conquest of Mexico as perfect as the
student could desire. He has carefully weighed each authority
adduced, and when conflicting testimonies presented themselyes,
has invariably scrutinized the positions of the authors, their
motives, their inducements to miscalculate and mislead, and
has decided impartially.
Oovemments, revered by their subjects, would have with-
stood successfully the feeble arrays brought against them ; but
foes without, leagued with traitors within^ accelerated the
ruin of the "ill-compacted fabrics." Succeeding generations
mourn successive turmoils, and the Mexican of the Present^
witnesses or participates in kindred revolutions, allied to one
faction or the other, who^ in turns, hail with enthusiasm a
Despotism or a Republic. Like the French, they have had
both, and still like the former, they have saddened, sickened,
and revolted under each. They refuse to be devoured by a
lion, but are being gnawed piecemeal by rats.
The proposition of Senator Houston, of a Protectorate over
Mexico, which was received with levity when broached, now
hath its weight. Shall we interfere to protect bands of ban-
ditti from ruthlessly munlsring saeh oduff upon our own con-
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864 NIGAKAOUA.
fines f Have we the right to prevent continnal warfare on
oar continent and in onr midst ? Must all intercoarse, politi-
cal and commercial, be saddenlj broken, that the conflicting
parties may deluge the land in blood, and yearly lessen the
national revenaesf Already do onr claims nrge Executire
attention. Shall their justice be deferred and denied, and
shall we supinely mark the total prostration of Mexico's pros-
perity, assured of her fiiture inability to discharge our claims,
if she is thus periodically revolutionized, and not demand a
cessation of hostilities, or a guaranty against bankruptcy?
Is it not our right to have one or the other t Shall we pur-
chase this ulcerous demesne, and thus assume its sovereignty,
or shall we occupy the territory as security for our just debt t
Will foreign powers interpose, as in the question of the pur-
chase of Cuba, and shall they dictate, even to the possessor,
the propriety of disposing of its wares f Is Spain no longer
independent t Is she, as well as Mexico, wards of the European
powers, and shall we have the Mosquito protectorate attempted
again f
Brantz Mayer, in " Mexico as it was and as it is," remarks,
"Nations habituated to be ruled for centuries, cannot rule
themselves in a minute.'' And again : " Agricultirre must be
cherished, and farmers made to elevate themselves in society,
to become rich by their toil, and cultivated by study. The
mechanical class must become ambitious of being something
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WHAT THE ABBE MOLINA SATS. 365
more than the mere servant of the capitalist's wants." And again
he adds : " It has been a difficult thing to malce the Mexicans
believe that they possessed any other kind of wealth but money
or mines." The same author also observes : " The lesson of
chicanery and corruption taught to its colony by old Spain,
through her injustice and oppression, became a principle of
action, and duplicity was raised to the rank of virtue."
Abbe Molina in his History of Chili, remarks in relation to
the valleys of the Andes : " The vegetation here is more luxu-
riant and vigorous, and the animals larger and stronger than
in the other parts of the country ; but as the people who in-
habit this district are Nomades or herdsmen, and in reality
cultivate nothing, it is difficult to determine with precision the
degree of their fertility." The constant demand upon those,
who cnltivate agriculture, in time of war, in all Spanish
Countries or Provinces, has been the chief drawback in the
development of the naturally rich soil. In Nicaragua, the
mules are taken summarily from the cart and field, and
" pressed" with the driver into the ranks. The indigo plan-
tations, upon which much labor and capital have been expended,
are abandoned, and the crop and the estate left entirely at the
mercy of marauders and the elements.
With the Spaniard, the farmer has no caste, save in the light
of a laborer. The adventurer, who magnanimously proffers
his services to the State as a soldier, is received with pomp
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866 MIGA&AOUA.
and pand«, while he who would develop the resonrces of the
conotry is looked apon with distrust, or only causes a ripple
apoD the surface of national attention. As an illustration, I
offered certain information relative to the establishment of a
Mint in Granada. There being none in Nicaragua, and the
currency being chiefly Costa Rican, or that of the XJuited
States, I had expected that my proposition would receive
attention. " The idea," I was answered, ** was good, but who
should be the Director ?" I at once perceived the want of con-
fidence prevalent, and of course discontinued my negotiations.
At all times, Capital can be enlisted in Spanish districts for
the development of minerales, but it is impossible to raise any
wherewith to consummate an agricultural operation, predicated,
certainly, upon results less fickle and unstable.
As I have observed, in the former part of this work, a
grazier in the Chontales district could amass a speedy fortune i
yet it is extremely difficult to find even a tolerable horse or
mule, and if found, the price desired is very extravagant.
Beef is scarce in the market, and the little to be had, tough
and lean, yet the abundant herds lowing over the green moun-
tains, and 'through the fertile vales, justify my assertion, that
to an American, life would here pass as a pleasant dream, and
fortune be easily accessible. No stately modem structures
pierce the sky in Nicaragua, no grand aqueducts, or macad-
amised roads, have been constructed by the modern Aztec ;
Digitized by VjOOQIC
WHAT PRESCOTT 9AT& 36?
the plains are as the race of old left them ; do added pyramids,
palaces or temples, yet the same Sun glows on the same hills,
over the same savannahs ; but the present race are broken in
energy, they shrink from foreign contact, they are content in,
gazing: mournfully upon the wrecks about them, and they
dream, poetically, of the Past, and sigh for the grandeur of
the era of Montezuma.
Prescott, in his " Conquest of Mexico," remarks in relation
to the Mexicans of the present compared with the ancient
race : " The difference is not so great as between the ancient
Oreek and his degenerate descendant, lounging among the
master-pieces of Art, which he has scarcely taste enough to
admire — speaking the language of those still more imperishable
monuments of literature which he has hardly capacity to com-
prehend." And again: ''The same blood flows in his veins
that flowed in theirs. But ages of tyranny have passed over
him — he belongs to a conquered race." The panegyrics of
Sonnini and Eaton have led us astray, no doubt, on this sub-
ject, while Thornton and De Pauw have debased the Greeks.
If they, the Mexicans and Nicaraguans, may never be truly
independent, may they not be subjects, or citizens, without
being slaves ?
The Jews, and the Catholic peasantry of Ireland, suffer
moral and physical ills — they live, struggling against truth —
Are they vicious ? If so, is it not in self-defense 7 Is the
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
868 moABAOUA.
Nicaragoan accustomed to gentleness from the ontside world ?
His Atlantic sea-board occnpied by England, bis town of
San Jaan del Norte taken from him, and even its old name
whiiewashed or grey washed into the very English one of
Greytown. Tigre Island once sammarily occnpied, Buccaneers
and Fillibnsters invading his home, is he to be thankful for
these foreign invaders, and grateful for the introduction of such
elements ? Dogs, oft-beaten, snap at the fingers that casually
caress them, and to the journalist who abuses, the traveler who
misquotes and decries, and the foe who plunders and destroys
them, the Nicaragnan and Mexican are to return a Latia Deo I
Although they are divided, dismembered, they have Hope —
the future will determine whence it tends.
The flag which waved over the throne of Isabel I. is less
haughty, and flaunts over a shorn territory now under thi)
reign of Isabel II. Under the enterprising regime of the
former, Spain occupied an eighth part of the known world, its
inhabitants numbering seventy millions, and its dimensions
comprising a space of eight hundred thousand square miles.
Of this vast domain, more than two-thirds have been lost.
In 1565, the Isle of Malta was given up to the Order of St
John. In 1620, the Lower Navarre and Bearne were yielded
to France, and in 1649, the Rousseion. In 1640 she lost
Portugal and her colonies. In 1648 she recognized the
sovereignty of the Netherlands. In 1626, the English wrested
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SPAIN AS SHE WAS. 36^
from her the Barbadoes; in 1665, Jamaica; inl'704, Gibraltar;
in 1*718, the Laccas; in 1759, Dominica; and in 1797, Trini-
dad. In the seventeenth century, France took possession of
Martinico, New Grenada, Guadalonpe, and the half of the
Isle of San Domingo, and in 1800, Louisiana.
In the eighteenth century she yielded up Sardinia to the
Duke of Savoy, and to Morocco her rights on Mazalquivir and
Oran. She ceded to Princes of the House of Bourbon,
Parma, Placencia, and Lucca, with other dominions in the
north of Italy, and in 1759, Naples and Sicily were emanci-
pated from her goyemment. In 1819, Florida was sold to.
the United States; in 1821 she lost her half of the Isle of
San Domingo ; and before 1825, all the vast continent which
her ancestors had acquired by chivalrous conquest, was
alienated forever. Of all her past immense power, what re-
mains f Her African possessions, the Philippines, Porto Rico,
and the Isles of Cuba. The Antilles comprise nearly all of
her ancient empire in the New World.
At no period in her national existence did she occupy a
more haughty position than under the reign of Ferdinand and
Isabella. We find, in reverting to her history, that this was
truly a warlike regime ; then Charles I. the era of the soldier ; '
under Philip II. the cowl and toga; then the Bourbons,
courtiers, ribboned and starred ; and again the soldier in
Ferdinand YII. Her succeeding eras have been devoid of
24
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
enlightened diplomatei marked bj no generons spirit, bot
father by the Tacillating policj of yore, and a settled aversion
to the introdaction of improTemente which, encotUraged'by
Other nations, have rendered Old Oastile bnt a third-rate
power in onr century. Engineers, picks, shovels, railways,
steam-engines, and the varions paraphernalia of material de-
velopment, have now oommenced the grand work of restora*
^on, and her Fatnre may be yet as glorious as her Past hatf
been ehivalroos and brilliant
Unnecessary expansion weakens States aS' well a^ Individ*'
iHils. Nations may develop themselves too suddenly ; but by
amassing their energies, their wealth, and by innate cultiva-
tion, by the proper protection of national interests, they will
strengthen themselves, rendering the citiaen a soldier it tiieF
approach of war, a producer in the calm hours of peace and^
prosperity. That country which imports to flatter^ idle tastes,
or gratify popular vanities, cannot, in the hour of peril, expect
heroes in her pampered populace. When the tocsin hatfaf
sounded, she discovers, too late, that the rank and file are
ifadeed degenerate, while the leaders are, at best, but beviet^'
df lute-voiced orators, improvident with cologne, but averse
to powder I
The well-adjusted fabric of our Bepublic can stand the
wear and tear of bomb and expletive, and our hardy pioneers
are already well-nigh on the Pacific bulwarks. Mexico pi'ofita
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
THE DESTINT OT TBOt UNITED STATES. 8f 1
not from tbe Past I Will Nicaragna f If not, hef shattered
wreck will strew the waters, and the coming of Montezuma
will indeed remain a traditional echo — a hope— while the
Anglo-Saxons, ripe with energy^ and inteUigence, will people
the arid plains, andreseae tiie minefales from oblivion. Were
the Ship Canal throngh Nicaragua, and the Pacific Railroad
from ouf East to the West completed, what would be the
destiny of the United States f Her Pacific borders would re-
sound witli commerce — thrift on the mountains — ^wealth in the
▼allevs — and from the fastnesses of het northwestemmost
stations long trains of mules would wend, laden with gold, to^
barter Ibr the silks of the Indies^ the spices of the Orient, the
Telvets of Gtonoa, the embroideries of France, the wines of Spain
ttnd Portugal, the cutlery of England, and the manufaoture9
of thorough Europe. Within the Constantinople of Ito
Americas, the turbaned Turk would display his gems and per*
fumes, and the dark Asiatic his ivory and cachmeres. The
mines of Mexico would here find vent, and to the Castilian,
who, of yore, deemed that land alone desirable which teemed
with gold and gems, our remote possessions would prove El
Paraiso regained.
The intervening and neighboring domains, sooner or later,
will imitate, if they do not merge. 'Tis the reason we would
conquer — Step by step we shall advance, surely if slowly. —
Not by violence is the great battle to be won, the prize to be
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
i1% mOABAGUA.
gained. We shall stand upon the entire length of the Pacific
shore, permanently, moral xnctars, potent, rigorons, and happy,
not as blood-stained Conquerors, urged forward by rapine
and fitlse glory. Already Commerce throngs the Onlf of
California — ^the waves of the Sea of Cortes ripple ander our
keels, bearing as onward to a peaceful and glorious Conquest.
Howerer high the storms may dash the warring waves, true
to her purpose will our gallant Ship of State ride the billows,
and anchor where the Sun smiles in his decline, upon the
Mediterranean of the Occident Where the gonfalon of
Spain, as Prescott beautifully renders it, "romantic Spain,
the land where the light of Chivalry lingered longest above
the horizon," once waved in haughty triumph, the flags of
vigorously competing nations will flaunt, as Commerce, with
her votaries, sweeps steadily on, intent upon a destiny of
wealth and universal redemption.
THE END.
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rare attractiveness for every reader. By Thokas William Atkixsok. WUk
numerous Illustrations. Cloth. $1 75.
Hunting Scenes in the "Wilds of Africa
Thrilling adventures of daring hunters— Cummings, Harris, and others — amoar
the Lions, Elephants, Giraffes, Buffaloes, and other animals— than which few. Vi
any works, are more exciting. With nnmbrons Illustrations. Cloth. $1 7&
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Hui^nTN'G^ Adventures in the iNoiiTHERisr
WiLDa. A tramp in the Chateaugaf Woods, over bills, lakes and forest streams,
at a time when millions of acres laj in a perfect wilderness, affording incidento,
descriptions, and adventures of extraordinary interest. Bj S. H. Hajuiiox*
With Illustrationfi Cloth. $1 76.
Wild K"orthern Scenes; or, SpoRTiNa Ad-
TEVTURBS WITH THB BiFLB AND THE RoD. Affording remarkably interesting exp**
riences in a section where the howl of the Wolf, the scream of the Panther, aii4
the hoarse bellow of the Moose could be heard— presenting a racj book. B7
8. H. HAicHoirD. With lUastrations. Cloth. $1 75.
Perils and Pleasures of a Hunter's Life;
OR, The R0MA21CI OF HuicTiira. Replete with thrilling incidents and hair-breadtk
•scapes, and fascinating in the extreme, while depicting the romance of hontlng.
Bj PsRBORurx HsRHB. With Illastrationa. Cloth. $1 79.
Hunting Sports in the "West. An amount
of novelty and variety, of bold enterprise and noble hardihood, of heroic daring
and fierce encoanters, which seem to be much more entertaining by the qniei flro«
side than they woald be to the one going through them in the forest or Held. Bj
CsciL B. Hartlbt. With numerous Illastratlons. Cloth. $1 72.
B'annt Hunter's Western Adventures.
Vividly portraying the stirring scenes enacted in Kansas and Misbouri ^^nrlng «
Bojourn of several years on the Western Border, and fully reprMenting social
•ad domestic affairs in frontier life— containing cnrioui pictures nf oharadtv.
With Illustrations. Cloth. $1 76.
Wonderful Adventures, by Land and Sea^
•r THB Sbvbv Qitber Travbllbrs who BIbt at ax 1x9. Revelations of a sioguU'
and nnasnally entertaining character, in which ihe most terrible circamKtanae^
and mysterioas occurrences are faithfully and forcibly placed bcfurt th« >
^j JofiAi Bamh. Oloth. 91 7S.
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Nicaragua ; Past, Presen^t, and Future.
Setllog forth iu bittorj, the manoers aud cnRtoms of its ichabltanU, it» mines
its mln«rala, and other prodactions, aad throwing light upon a oabject of verj
gr»at importance to the masses of oar people. B/ Pbtbb F. 8tovt, Esq., late
a. 8 Vlee-ConsuL CIoUl $1 79.
Female Life Among the Mormons; or,
Maria Wabd'i DtscLoecaBS. Bomantie Incidents, bordering or the zparveloas,
which show the eTils, horrors, and abominations of the Mi)rmon sysitem — the
dexnuiation of Its feujales, and the conseqnent vices of its society. By Maria
Ward, the Wife of a Uormon Elder. With Illustrations. 40,000 copies sold.
Cloth. $1 76.
Male Life Among the Mormons. Detailing
sights and scenes among the Mormons, with important remarks on their moral
and social economy ; lieing a trae transcript of events, viewing Mormonisra from
a man*s standpoint, and forming a companion to the preceding volame By
Acarnr N. Ward. Edited by Maria Wakd. With lUostrations. Cloth. $176.
Pioneer Life in the West. Describing the
adventnree of Boone, Kenton, Brady, Clark, the Whetzela, the Johnsons, ond
othens in their fierce encounters with the Indians, a'nd making np a work of the
most entertaining and instrnctive character for those who delight in history and
adventure. With nnmerons Illastrations. Cloth. $1 75.
Thrilling Stories of the Great Rebel-
LioK. Fearful adventures of soldiers, scouts, spies, and refugees : daring exploits
•f smugglers, guerillas, desperadoes, and others ; tales of loyal and disloyal
women ; stories of the negro, and incidents of fun and merriment in camp and
field. By Lieut. Cha&lbs S Grbenb, late of the U. 8. Army. With lUustratioBA
In Oil. Cloth. $1 75.
History of the War in India. Furnishing
the complete history of British India, together with interesting and thriUicg details
which have scarcely a parallel in the world's history, to which is added a memoir
of GeneraV Sir Hbxet Havelock. By HRirar Fksdbrick Haloolil IUti8lrL.lad
with numerous Engravings. Cloth. $1 7fi.
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Our Boys. Personal experiences of the author
while in the arxnf, presenting the richest and raciest scenes of army and camp
life ever published, and portraying various events in all their originality. Br
A. F. Hill, of the Eighth Pennsylvania Reserves. With Portrait on Steel, and
characteristic Illostratlons. Cloth. $1 76.
Our Campaigns, The marches, hivouacs,
battles, incidents, camp life, and history of a regiment during its three years'
term of service in the war, together with a sketch of the Army of the Potomae
under Generals McClellan, Burnside, Hooker, Meade, and Grant. B/ £. M. Wood-
WAKD, AdJ't Second Penna. Seserres. Cloth. $1 75.
Margaret Moncrieffe, the Beautiful Spy.
An exciting story of Army and high life in I7ew York, in 1776, presenting fact!
and historic names, and showing the mutual attachment between Aaron Burr
and Margaret Moncrieffe, as well as the influence of the latter upon the former ij»
the more important events of his life. By Chaslbs Burdbtt. Cloth #i 7S.
Six K"ights in a Block House ; or, Sketches
or BoRDBR LiVB. Feats of hero hunters and thriUingexploits among the Indians;
furnishing the names of hunters well known in western history, and showing the
most exciting drama of border warfare, and, as a whole, the most intensely Id ter-
esting and instructive work upon Indian life now offered the public. By Hbkbt
C. WAT80N. With 100 Engravings. Cloth. $1 75.
THRiLiiJiTG Adventures Among the Earlt
Sbttlbrs. a series of debperate encounters with Indians, daring exploits of
Texan Rangers, incidents of guerilla warfare, fearful deeds of desperadoes and
Ngalatcrs of the west, and graphic delineations of hunting and trapping well
worthy universal preservation. By Warrbx Wildwood, Esq. More than 200
Engravings Cloth. $1 75.
Thrilling Incidents in American Histort.
Events which are among the most striking and important in our national annals,
covering the Revolution, the French War the TripolltaQ War, the Indian Wars,
the War of 1812, and the Mexican War — all of which are of great usefulness to
the student and general reader. By the author of "The Army and Navy of ihm
Vaitod States." With Thrse Hundred lUnstrations. Cloth. #1 7k.
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Scouting Expeditions of the Texan Ran*
QttM. 0|tf»r«tloDB which o«earrtd daring soaie of the prominent events of th*
M«>xlcan w«r, tofpther with sketches of the celebrated partisan chiefs, Hays,
Mr<'ul)ueh, and Walker, whose courage, sagacitj, and remarkable exploits should
bo fitniliiar to all Americans. By Samuel C. Rbid, Jr , late of the Texan Sanger^
•nd Member cf Ue Loalsiao* Bar. With lUastratiooB. Cloch. $1 75.
The Battle -Fields of the Revolution.
The most brllllaat poiftts ia the history of the Revolationary war, recounting the
priaelpal battles deges, and other ImporUnteTents-^he whole interspersed with
mameroos charaetertstlo aaeedotes. By TaoiiAa T. Broads. With m&ay lUue*
teattoas. Qoth. $1 70.
Thrilling Adventures Among the In-
DiAffs. Ia which are enumerated the moat remarkable incidents of the early
ladlaa Wars, which abonod ia dangers, TindlcttTeness, endarance, heroism^
gratitade, treachery, stoicism, and roTenge, and in which there ia ranch to fasd-
aate the reader, and store the iaqniriog mind. By Johji Frost, LL. B. With
SBOre than 90O IHnstratioas. Cloth. $1 70.
The Hero Girl, and How She Became a
Captain in thb Aaar. The highly dramatic story of Molly Pitcher who, baring
lost her husband at the battle of Monmouth, gallantly stepped forward, took his
place at the ceonoa, and continued serring it until the battle ended— after which
the rank of Captain was conferred on her by Gen. Washington. By Thrags
Talmoh. With Illustrations. Cloth. $1 76.
Mrs. Partington's Knitting "Work, and
What was Donb bt her Plaout Bor iKtf. In which all will see the %cid and
BBgar, and spirit and water— forming an intellectual punch, of which all can par-
take without headache or heartache. Wrought by the old lady herself. With
characteristic Illustrations, including a portrait of the old lady in specs, snr-
Tounded by the Partington Ikmily. Qloth. $1 75.
Way Down East; or, Portraitures of
Taxkbb Life. Embodying some of the raciest stories of the '* Down Easter'* ever
published by 'His humorous author— containirg much of genuine wit and attrae-
ti TO thought By Seb A Smith, the original Major Jack Downing. WUhseTeml
vieh and original Illnstraaons. Cloth. $1 76.
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